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BRANCH OFFICE
PHCEIN^IX: 1VIXJTXTA.L
LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY,
448 Broadway, ALBANY, N. Y.
For TwENTT Ye.xrs this Company has steadily increased in strength and
yopnlarity, until it now leads the old Com)>anies in '' Ratio of
Assets to Liabilities " — the true test of soundness,
HAVING $140 ASSETS TO EVERY $100 LIABILITIES.

CHARLES ANGITS, Assistant Manager,
A, B, ULINE, Snp't of Agencies, J, D, LEWIS, Gen'l Traveling Agent.
For Agencies in the States of New York, Vermont and Neiv
Hampshire, apply as above.

[]Ln mm imra.
S. S. COLT, Editor.
General Office 51 North Pearl Street,
ALBANY, NE'W YORK.
Albany Edition Circulates in Albany, Troy and Vicinity,
Rochester and Buffalo Editions,
Rochester Office, 32 Powers's Block. D. F. H, ORR, Gen'l Agent.
The SCIENTIFIC ADVERTISER owes its success to its original literary
cliaracter— its spicy editorial notices for advertiser.s, whicli are in themselves
of Interest to Ihe public — its method of placing from one-half to two-thirds
reading matter on every page, thus rendering each page of equal value to
advertisers ; its steady exclusion of the humtiugs of the day ; and the pub
licity which is ensured by lieeping BOUND FILES in all prominent Places
of Resort in and near the cities of its publication, and throughout tlie State.
Advertising Rates, copies and information furnished with pleasure upon
application to S. S. COLT, 51 North Pearl Street, Albany, N. Y., or 32 Powers'
Block, Rochester, N. Y.
The Largest Circulation and Best Advertising Medium in
Central and IVestern Netr York.

HENDEIOK HUDSON, and
his SHp the Half-Moon.
This portrait of the bold naviga
tor is copied from an Oil Painting,
of undoubted authenticity, pre
sented to the State by one of its
j oldest families, and now preserved
- in the City Hall, New York.

;,-3c^, .:

5^'

THE

TOUEIST'S G-UIDE

THROUGH THE

EMPIRE STATE.

EMBRACING ALL

CITIES, TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES,

By Hudson River and New York Central Route,

DESCRIBING ALL ROUTES OF TRAVEL, AND PLACES OF POPULAR IN
TEREST AND RESORT ALONG THE HUDSON RIVER, LAKE
GEORGE, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, THE ADIRONDACKS,
SARATOGA, NIAGARA PALLS, Etc., Etc.

Edited and l*uhVished hy
M:iiS- S. S. OOliT, A.Jl.BJ^lSrY, N. Y.
••• 1871.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by
S. S. COLT,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

c-^^^^^-

CHAPTER I. PAGE.
A Birds-eye View of New York and its Environs  1

CHAPTER II.
New York to Irvington. Telling Old Stories and New Ones by
the way  11
CHAPTER III.
From Irvington to West Point. Beecher's Home — Greeley's Farm 22
CHAPTER IV.
West Point to Albany. The West Point Cadets — the Beauties of
Poughkeepsie, and the Story of ^ Tongue that was Tamed !.. 44
CHAPTER V.
Our Capital City. Its Sights and its People— Old Times and New ! 71
CHAPTER VI.
Albany and Susquehanna Road. The Helderbergs— Howe's Cave-
Sharon Springs— Richfield Springs— Cherry Valley  104

IV GONTBA'TS.
CHAPTER VII. PAGE.
Cooperstown. The Home of Feniraore Cooper — Leatherstocking
Falls—" Lake Glimmerglass "  122
CHAPTER VIII.
Troy — Ballston Spa — Saratoga and its Belles  '. 134
CHAPTER IX.
Lake George — Lake Champlain — the Adirondacks — about Deer and
Black Flies !  149
CHAPTER X.
Our Westward VV^ay. Auburn — Cornell University — Taghkanic
Falls — Rochester — Avon — Watkins Glen, etc  105
CHAPTER XI.
Buffalo and Niagara  188
CHAPTER XII.
Hints for Travelers  199
CHAPTER Xlll.
Princess Neraona ; or, Love in the Empire State  205
CHAPTER XIV:
Poem — Climbing up the Mountain  213
CHAPTER XV.
Finis  220

LIDING via steamboat,
Riding viii rail,—
Cicerone and Tourist,
We unfold our tale.

PP from the beaten track
We shall sometimes stray ;
Sans weariness and care,
Taking holiday !

UD places— legends queer —
With those better known,
Will all be noted here,
As we journey on J

Ij irds of every feather
¦^ Travel now-a-days;
From grave and gay, together,
We trust to merit praise .'

i

-^=^$»=^-

OR fun and fact will meet
Via steamboat — i:ia rail —
Where'er our Guide, complete.
Unfolds its pleasing tale !

THE

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HROUGH THE Empire State lies our way. We
shall sail up the legendary Hudson, renowned in the
Old World and the New, noting its Show Places, and
recounting its funny and pathetic stories of the present
and the past.
The Hudson has a historic yesterday. Saratoga is
society's Queen of to-day. From both we shall journey
on to that sublime mountain-heart of New York, where the Satanic
and beautiful Black Fly holds its revels, and the "panther's print
lies fresh."
In the Adirondacks we shall find deer ; pickerel in Lake
Champlain ; salmon in Lake George ; and splendid scenery
EVERTWHBEE. Our pilgrimage of pleasure will not be ended till at Niagara
Falls we listen to the cataract's roar, and ascertain whether there
is truth in the common report that Table Rock is " out of repair."
1

2 THE TOUMIST'S GUIDE.
New York lies, like a Neapolitan lazzarone, with its head on the
grass and its feet in the water. From Central Park to the Battery,
ebb and. flow the tides of city life. It is estimated that in the
course of twenty-four hours, seventeen thousand vehicles pass the
Astor House in Broadway, wearing out the stone block pavement
once in fifteen years.
From the turf and flowers of Central Park to the waves which
wash the Battery (and cannot wash it clean) may at the present
hour be called the full stretch of the city. There are men not yet
in the decline of life who can remember when the Astor House was
quite an up-town institution, and it is very possible that we may
live to behold Central Park located in the heart of New York city.
In population. New York already claims to rank as the third
city of Christendom, and its rate of progress in the future is cer
tain to be far greater than that of Paris, and likely to be some
what greater than that of London.
How many of our city residents, or country friends visiting the
city, have viewed the panorama to be seen from Trinity steeple ?
Let those who can do so, not fail to enjoy it. You ascend many
steps, creep around amid the ponderous chimes, rusty, cavernous
and solemn ; then patiently wind round and round up the interior
of the spire, with occasional lookouts, at which you may pause and
get foretastes of the promised picture, and at last reach the top, or
rather, the highest point of ascent, which is the uppermost window
or loophole. The spire still stretches some fifty feet above. The
view that opens before you is now really very fine. To the north
ward there is a wilderness of roofs, with spires and green-dotted
parks, and Broadway's straight, wall-like line and stately marble
warehouses, and, far away, the green hills of Westchester. At
your feet is Wall street, and you wonder if you could not jump

THE tourist's GUIDE. 3
upon the dome of the Custom House. To the right, if you face
southward, is the broad Hudson at its mouth, with the Jersey
shore, and Communipaw, and the distant Orange hills. To the
left is the swift East river, with Brooklyn beyond. Before you is
the grand bay, with Staten Island, and the forts, and the islands,
-and the Narrows, and the great ocean beyond, whose offing is
dotted with distant ships. And, added to this expansive panorama
of town and river and ocean and shore, is the wonderful and varied
picturesque animation of the scene. From below rises the " stilly
hum" of the turbulent and restless city. ¦ Wall street, with its
immense crowds of dark-coated men rushing hither and thither,
looking like a vast hive whose inmates have been thrown into wild
excitement by some unexpected intrusion ; and Broadway, packed
thickly with its long line of interlocked vehicles ; then the river on
either side, crowded with sails and busy ferry-boats, and^lined by
storehouses, ships and steamers ; and the grand bay, with anchored
frigates, swift-moving yachts and puffing steamers ; all combine to
make up a picture not easily matched, and, once seen, likely to be
long remembered. Those of our readers who have not enjoyed
this spectacle, would find the somewhat laborious ascent of the
steeple amply rewarded by the result.
That brilliant writer, Justin McCarthy, declares that Broadway,
the backbone of New York, is usually one of the brightest and
most animated streets in the world. No two houses in all its
vast length (and it is as if the Strand intersected London from end
to end) are like each other ; this side of the street is never like that.
A huge building of white marble stands next to one of brown stone,
both of the newest and most glaring hues ; then comes a quaint old
Dutch house of the days of Stuyvesant, and then again, something
little better than a shanty.

4 THE tourist's GUIDE.
On this side you are reminded now of the Rue de Rivoli ; cast
your eyes across the street and you see a scrap of the New Cut, or
a bit of Wapping. Here a side street seems borrowed from Liv
erpool; a few yards on is another which appears to have been
transplanted from Delft or Utrecht. The shop fronts glitter with
signs and flutter with flags. A Chinese city is not more parti-colored,
bright, eccentric and fantastic, in its buildings and insignia.
But our way lies through the Empire State. New York city is,
in itself, a museum of wonders. Its attractions are countless. To
enumerate them is to fill a volume. Yet, on summer days, none
more than Americans make it a principle to desert the city, though
none less than Americans know how to dispense with it. Leaving
splendid Fifth avenue and squalid Five Points alike behind us, we
will seek the foot of Vestry street, where the North River steamers
occupy their well-known place in that water-belt of commerce which
nearly surrounds the Island of Manhattan.
As the boat leaves its pier, a beautiful view is obtained of the
the Upper Bay of New York. In the distance loom up the High
lands of Neversink — the last land which gladdens the eye of the
ocean voyager.
Upon the opposite shore from New York lies Jersey City. It
was once known as Paulus Hook. Mighty tides of travel sweep
daily through Jersey City. It is the highway leading to the Mid
dle and Southern States. The dock of the Cunard line of steamers
is also located here.
Farther up the shore is Hoboken, beyond which stretch the
spreading lawns and luxuriant foliage of the Elysian Fields, once
the famous and romantic resort of lovers ; now, perhaps, equally
dear to the devotees of base ball.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 5
Weehawken Bluifs upon the north and Bergen Heights upon the
west, give a wild background to this fair landscape of city and
shore. The limit of Hoboken is the rocky promontory long known
as Castle Hill, on which stands the mansion of the Stevens family.
Near Hoboken the little town of Weehawken acquires a gloomy
consequence from the sad and mysterious murder of the " beautiful
cigar girl."
We present in our pages a view of New York, from Weehawken,
with its line of wharves and rows of warehouses, Trinity Church
and the Battery in distinct view, beyond which are the walls of
Castle William, on Governor's Island, and still further on, the
waters of New York Bay, the Narrows, Long Island and Staten
Island. In striking contrast with this scene is the representation of New
York, then known as Nieuw Amsterdam, in 1650, when our worthy
Dutch ancestors held full sway between the East and North rivers
and all along up the Hudson.
The picture of modern New York from Weehawken is taken,
looking southward, from the spot where Hamilton fell by the bul
let of Aaron Burr, in 1804.
Few strangers, says Mr. James Grant Wilson, came to New
York fifty years ago without visiting the celebrated, dueling-
ground on the romantic bank of the Hudson, about two miles
above the Hoboken Ferry. It was a grassy ledge, or shelf, about
twenty feet above the water, and only sufficiently large for the
fatal encounters that frequently occurred there in the old dueling
days, being about two yards wide by twelve in length. From this
celebrated^ spot there was a natural and almost regular flight of
steps to the edge of the rocky shore where a landing was eff'ected.
This singularly-isolated and secluded spot was reached by small

6 THE tourist's GUIDE.
boats, being inaccessible to foot-passengers along the shore, except
at very low tide. No path led to it from the picturesque heights
of Weehawken, whose beauties have been sung by Halleck, and
are familiar to all New Yorkers ; but the ground was sometimes
reached from above by adventurous persons who descended the
steep, rough and wooded declivity.
It was to this spot that the fiery Tybalts resorted for the settle
ment of difficulties according to the " code of honor," prevailing
at the beginning of the nineteenth century. Here occurred the
meetings referred to by Byron, when he says :
" It is a strange, quick jar upon the ear,
That cocking of a pistol, when you know
A moment more wUl bring the sight to bear
Upon youi- person, twelve yards off, or so;
A gentlemanly distance, not too near,
If you have got a former friend for foe;
But, after being fired at once or twice.
The ear becomes more Irish and less nice."
It was at the Weehawken Dueling Ground that Philip Hamilton,
at the age of twenty, was killed, November 23, 1801, in an " afi'air
of honor," by George J. Backer, who was, like his victim, a young
lawyer of New York ; it was here in the year following that a Mr.
Bird was shot through the heart, and, springing up nearly ten feet,
fell dead ; here Ben Price was killed by a Captain Green of the
British army ; and it was on this celebrated ground that Alex
ander Hamilton fell, on the morning of July 11, 1804, on the very
spot where his eldest son had been killed. Several months after
the duel, the St. Andrew's Society, of whom the lamented patriot
had been the president, erected upon the ground a marble monu
ment, and surrounded it with an iron railing. Every summer
thousands of strangers visited the spot. As the years glided past,
the railing was torn down by vandal hands, and the whole structure
gradually removed, piece by piece, as souvenirs, till at length no

THE tourist's GUIDE. 7
vestige of it remained. Two granite blocks inscribed with the
names of Burr and Hamilton, deeply cut in the stone, and the for
mer dated 1804, marked the spots where they stood face to face on
that fatal July morning, sixty-seven years ago.
A few summers since we visited the romantic and secluded spot,
in company with one who was well acquainted with all the actors
in the tragedy, and who pointed out the positions of the principals,
and the old cedar tree under which Hamilton stood, while the sec
onds. Judge Pendleton and Wm. P. Van Ness, were arranging the
preliminaries, and Dr. David Hosack, Mr. Davis, and the boatmen
sat in the boats, awaiting the result of the duel which ended so
tragically. Perhaps, since the world began, no hostile meeting in
an " aifair of honor" ever created such an excitement — certainly
no one that has occurred in this country — as the deadly encounter
between Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton.
On a bright May morning of the present year we revisited the
ancient dueling-ground, but alas, it had been swept out of exist
ence by that "villainous alteration miscalled improvement."
Nothing remains to mark the spot but a weather-beaten stone on
which the name Hamilton has been almost obliterated by the winds
and rains of heaven. In place of the narrow ledge, there is now a
broad track over which the trains of the West-Side Railroad thun
der northward to Fort Lee, and farther on, awakening the echoes
from the picturesque Weehawken heights and the lofty Highlands
of the Hudson.
" Let me hope, I pray you," wrote Fitz-Greene Halleck to a
lady friend at Fort Lee, a few years ago, " that while I live you
will not allow a person, whom I refrain from naming (the same
person who entered, of old, the only paradise on earth to be com
pared to Fort Lee, in the shape of a rattle-snake, and played the

8 THE tourist's guide.
very devil there), to come in the shape of a railroad locomotive,
screaming his way through your garden, up to a crystal palace on
the top of the Palisades, at the rate of forty miles an hour." The
poet's prayer was realized ; he did not live to witness this much-
needed improvement, and to have his heart saddened by what he
would have deemed a desecration of the fondly-cherished scene so
indelibly impressed upon his memory.
The venerable cedar tree against which Hamilton leaned, as he
gazed sadly, for the last time, on the distant city which held all
that was dear to him in this world, has been cut down and thrown
into the river, and the place changed beyond all recognition.
Looking around for the memorials of past days, we at length dis
covered the granite block inscribed with the name of Hamilton ;
but the other was not to be found, nor the numerous rocks, which
we had seen on a former visit, decorated with the names or initials
of persons who had made pilgrimages to the place.
A gang of laborers were at work near the spot, and to their
foreman we addressed an inquiry about the granite block inscribed
" Burr, 1804." The conversation ran as follows :
" Have you seen here a large stone similar to this one marked
Hamilton ? "
" Yes."
" Was it marked with the name of Burr, and dated 1804 ? "
" It was."
" Do you know where it is ? "
"Yes." "Can you point it out to me ? "
" Well, I guess not, seeing it's underground. It's been used as
a covering stone in a culvert just above here."

NEW YORK, 1650.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 9
" Could you not have made use of another stone, and allowed
the interesting memorial to remain ? "
" Why, yes ; and I told the boss he'd better lay it alongside of
t'other stone ; but he said that Burr was a mean cuss, anyhow,
and not of much account, and he guessed it would be more useful
doing duty as a covering stone than perpetuating his memory."
Such is life ! ! !
In this vicinity are the garden-beds — the flower nurseries of the
metropolis. Floral gardeners monopolize the land all along from
the rear of Hudson City, West Hoboken and the Teutonically-
classic shades of Union Hill, as far as Weehawken. There are
whole " beds of violets," in the most literal sense, forests of tulips,
thickets of dahlias, and a chaparral of mignonette. As for roses,
the celebrated seven acres of rose bushes on the South Carolina
estate of General Wade Hampton, as it was before the war, might
envy their profusion ; while, for perennial beauty and fragrance,
"the thrice-blooming roses of Paestum," whose delicious odors
enchanted Cicero as he sailed, far out at sea, past the Ausonian
coast, could not surpass them. The Prince of Wales once sent
to the Empress Eugenie, as a graceful acknowledgment for her
attentions in Paris to his princess-consort, a bouquet containing no
less than fifty rare varieties of the queen of flowers. Had he been
in America, he would have no difficulty in surpassing this selection
in the neighborhood of Union Hill.
Violets, roses, camelias, tuberoses, mignonette and heliotrope
are sold in New York every year, to the value of nearly one and a
half million dollars.
Hot-house culture is more largely carried on upon the eastern
bank of the Hudson. This branch of the flower trade is immense,

10

THE tourist's GUIDE.

and will soon exceed the floral commerce of Holland, where six
million flower-plants are sold annually.
Weehawken is also noted as the place where the Indians first
became intoxicated, and, under the influence of "fire-water,"
gravely surmised that the Hudson must have become inebriated
when it started on its career, or it would never have sought such a
winding channel to the sea.

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Pleasure grounds belonging to one of the ' ¦ Summer Homes "' lying
on the Hudson's eastern shore.

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II.

r^S New York recedes from view, the significant,
•X^ upward-pointing finger of Trinity steeple will be the
last noticeable object to be distinguished.
The history of " Old Trinity " is closely inter
woven with the records of New York. It is the
" rich church" of the land. Erected in 1696, it then
stood on the northern outskirts of the city. It has been twice
destroyed by fire. Fulton, the inventor of steam, navigation, sleeps
in its churchyard. Near him rests Lawrence, whose last words—
''Don't give up the ship "—will be remembered while the love of
country animates patriot breasts. There, too, a plain, simple
monument, erected by a noble English lady, commemorates the
dust of " Charlotte Temple," whose pitiful story was whispered
and wept over, two generations ago.
There, too, rises the handsome tomb which was erected to our
fallen Brave, for the double purpose of honoring the dead and pre
venting Albany and Pine streets from being cut through the yard
— an amusing combination of motives, it must be confessed.

12 The tourist who travels by boat instinctively looks backward.
Maidens and matrons, men of pleasure and of business, alike cast
interested glances over this receding vista of one of the young
giant cities of the world. Those who journey in the train of the
iron horse, if they are philosophical, may recall the fact, that the
road by which they travel is but one line of a railway network
extending over the country, the sum total of whose meshes foots
up over fifty thotisand miles. More timid souls ponder on " a ser
mon with a smash up for a text " — and the nonchalant are devoted
to that absorbing American idol, the inevitable newspaper.
Steamboat travelers feel both more secure and more at leisure
than those who ride by rail. It is only upon the Mississippi now-a-
days that "A nigger is squat on the safety-valve.
And the furnace crammed with rosin and pine!"
The day line of steamers plying between New York and Albany
proffer attractions and advantages which are seldom combined in
one route of equal length. Historical associations and old romantic
traditions linger along the banks where
' ' Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands.
Winds thro' the hills afar."
Evidences of the fashion and the prosperity of to-day are also
visible on every hand. •
The boats of the Day Line, namely, the well-known C. Vibbard
and the Daniel Drew, are, probably, without exception, the swiftest
steamboats in the world. Built especially to meet the require
ments of summer travel on the Hudson, these boats combine
qualities of speed and comfort with ample facilities for viewing the
magnificent scenery through which they pass. The two boats are
essentially the same in size and equipments. The dimensions of
the Vibbard are as follows :

THE tourist's GUIDE. 13
Length of keel  265 feet
Breadth of beam  34 "
Depth of hold  0 feet 8 inches
Diameter of cylinder  62 "
Length of stroke  12 feet
The highest speed ever attained by these boats was made by the
Vibbard, which went from New York to Tarrytown, a distance of
twenty-seven miles, in one hour. The same boat has also run from
West Point to Newburg, ten miles, in twenty and one-half min
utes. This speed was made on an extraordinary occasion, however,
and the powers of the boats are not so severely tested when carry
ing passengers.
The Day Boats leave Pier 39, North River, at the foot of Vestry
street, at 8:30 A. M., touching, fifteen minutes later, at Thirty-
fourth street, and reaching Albany at 6 o'clock P. M., landing at
the foot of Hamilton street, and connecting with the Chicago
Express- on the New York Central Railroad, and the Susquehanna
Railroad. Upon their return trips they leave Albany at 9 A. m.,
reaching New York at 6:15 P. m.
Upon the Daniel Drew a very good story is told, for the truth of
which we will not vouch, that " Uncle Daniel," as he is familiarly
known in Wall street, once went on board the boat which bears his
name, in what could not be truthfully described as " stunning"
attire, and was accosted by a passenger, who mistook him for an
employee, with, "Well, do you belong to the boat ?" " No, sir," was
the quiet reply, " the boat belongs to me." Whether true or not, it
is a good story to tell of the Wall street financier, and we suspect
that, like many histories, " it is founded on fact."
The traveler who deems it preferable to leave New York at
night, will find the steamers Vanderbilt and Connecticut, of the
New York and Troy Line, extremely elegant, commodious and well-

14 THE tourist's GUIDE.
managed. These boats are swift and strong, and run between Troy,
Albany and New York, in connection with the Rensselaer and Sara
toga, Troy and Boston roads, Albany and Susquehanna, and New
York Central railroads. Their departures and arrivals are timed to
accommodate passengers by all these routes, and Hudson River
Railroad tickets, if desired, are received for passage, including state
room. The liberal management of this line secures for it a large
share of public patronage and favor.
In the Tourist Guide we present thfe western shore of the
Island of Manhattan, as it was depicted by an early artist, not
long after the advent of the Colonists, and ere the hand of man had
effaced or altered the work of Nature's hand.
How changed is the scene which is spread out before the gaze of
the traveler now !
The Palisades commence at Weehawken, although they do
not attain their most majestic height for several miles. They run
northward about twenty miles, a sheer wall of rock varying from
two hundred to six hundred feet in height, surmounted by a fringe
of forest trees. The form of these clifis and the slope beneath
them to the water, is similar to that of the vaunted cliffs upon the
northern coast of Ireland. They command an exquisite view of
the Hudson river and its shores upon the east, and of the fields of
New Jersey upon the west — for Fort Lee, be it remembered, is
not part and parcel of the Empire State, but is included in the
survey of Bergen county, N. J.
But we must speed on to Fort Lee, which lies on the western
bank of the river, ten miles from the City Hall. The remains of the
fort are scarcely discernible. It was here that the Continental
Congress ordered the obstruction of the navigation of the river by
" every art and at whatever expense." It was thus that plucky

the tourist's guide. 15
Americans waged unequal but victorious war with British foes.
The Palisades are here three hundred feet high. Country seats are
already in process of erection along the brow of the Palisades.
Manhattanville is a part of New York. The name is given
to the neighborhood of 132d street. A little south of Manhattanville,
in the neighborhood of 117th street, the Lunatic Asylum occupies a
fine, elevated location. It is surrounded by about forty acres of
ornamental grounds. This asylum, better known as the Blooming-
dale Hospital, has been the retreat of the ruined and brain-crazed
speculators of Wall street, to a greater extent, perhaps, than any
other institution in the country. Here, too, the daughter of a
Senator, and wife of an ex-Governor of one of the Southern States,
for many years played the role of Queen Elizabeth. She was
dressed always in pure white, and is said to have been, of all
lunatic queens, the most beautiful and the happiest.
Nearer the river is the Claremont Hotel, which was the home of
Joseph Bonaparte during the first year of his exile in this country.
Manhattan College, a Catholic institution, the Convent of the
Ladies of the Sacred Heart, and the Colored Orphan Asylum,
are all in this vicinity.
Carmansvillb, at 152d street, is another of the suburbs of New
York. Here, for many years, lived Audubon, the most distin
guished of American ornithologists, whose fame chiefly rests upon
his splendid volume, " The Birds of America," which was issued
in 1828, for one hundred and seventy subscribers, at $1,000 per
copy. In 1833, upon his last return from Europe, he purchased the
estate which he called " Minnie's Land." It is now known as
Audubon Park, and the house still exists. Audubon died in 1848,
and is interred in Trinity Cemetery, near by — that City of the Dead,

16 THE tourist's GUIDE.
which, it is feared, must soon be removed to afford room for the
City of the Living.
The Churchyard of Trinity is well known, while comparatively
few are aware that the sleepers in it are but as a handful, in com
parison with that multitude who lie under the daisies, in the old
Cemetery, which just borders on the city limits. Washington
Square was once a Potter's Field, and in 1845, ere beautiful
Greenwood had won its fame, a child's grave could be purchased
in that " city of the dead," for the trifliiig sum of five dollars, but
a burial in Trinity Cemetery has always been attended with
such expenses, as led a prominent citizen to say, " I cannot afford
to die in New York — it would ruin my family to bury me here !"
A little above Carmansville, the New York Institute for the
Deaf and Dumb cannot fail to attract attention. It is a large
building, with fronts of yellow Milwaukee brick, surmounted
with a dome, and stands upon the southern slope of Washington
Heights. The Asylum will accommodate some four hundred and
fifty pupils, and next to the Institution at Hartford, is the oldest
in the United States. It was incorporated in 1817. The name of
Dr. Peet is inseparably identifled with this' beneflcent home. In
this vicinity garnets were found in abundance in the early part of
this century, and juvenile New Yorkers passed many a holiday
afternoon collecting the stones. Madame Jumel, the famous and
wealthy second wife of Aaron Burr, owned a necklace and bracelets
of these garnets, which were polished and set in Europe in a very
elaborate fashion.
Fort Washington, Washington Heights, or, in more fashion
able phraseology, Washington Park, lies between 181st and 185th
streets, nearly opposite Fort Lee. The second defeat of the Amer
icans in New York, during the war of the Revolution, occurred

THE tourist's GUIDE. 17
here in November, 1776, when 3,000 men were captured by the
English forces. It was a severe blow to the cause of the Republic.
The residence of James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the
New York Herald, is at Washington Heights, and the whole
region is gemmed with charming country homes. Not far beyond
the Heights is the northern boundary of Manhattan Island, and
the little waters famous in history and story, as Spuyten Duyvel
Creek. Mount St. Vincent upon the eastern bank of the river and
fifteen miles from New York, is one of the most noticeable points
upon the Hudson.
A large school for young ladies, under the care of the Ladies of
the Sacred Heart, is located here.
At the Sacr6 Coeur in Paris they will no longer receive Pro
testants, there having been so many conversions which have caused
great ill-feeling ; but here, where the institution is avowedly for
the education of Protestant youth, parents should be perfectly
willing that their children should become Romanists before sending
them within its walls. That their minds and hearts are guarded
from bad influences from within and without, owing to the strict
surveillance exercised, is undoubtedly true ; and that their educa
tion, in especially feminine acquirements and accomplishments, is
superior. Still, if you object to the religion, do not send your
daughters to the Sacred Heart to be educated, and then blame
either the Ladies or the children if they become Roman Catholics.
Years ago, the tragedian, Edwin Forrest, erected the central
building as a residence. It was built of dark stone, in the style
of an English castle, and was known as Fonthill. After his divorce,
it was sold to the ladies of the Sacred Heart, and one architect
2

18 THE tourist's GUIDE.
after another made additions to it, till the present structure was
completed. Even its friends admit that it is " architecturally
inharmonious ;" we will not repeat what its critics say.
We reach Yonkers next. It is a thriving suburban town. A
few years ago New Yorkers went to Yonkers to obtain " summer
board," but now the denizens of Yonkers visit " the country" in
the heated term, and Yonkers in August is almost as deserted as
the city itself. The name Yonkers is derived from the Dutch
Yonk-heer, signifying the heir of a family. For many years it
has been repeated and believed, that Washington's " flrst love" was
the fair Mary Philipse, of this town, but the modern historians,
who have nearly proved Mary of Scots,
" Less to be pitied than blamed,"
and have robbed the story of Pocahontas of its heroic pathos, now
affirm that Washington never knelt at the shrine of the belle of
Yonkers. It cannot be denied, however, that the Philipse Manor
House is an existing fact. ' It is a stone building erected in 1682,
with the addition of its front in 1745. It is owned by Mr. Wood-
worth, who is surely " the right man in the right place," for his
efforts tend to preserve unchanged this interesting memorial of
" Ye oldeu times."
The bold mariner, Hendrick Hudson, anchored off Yonkers
when ascending the Hudson in September, 1609. Here, the record
runs, that he found a "loving people, who attained great age."
An illustration given in our pages represents his ship, the " Half
Moon," at anchorage, while the boats of the Indians ply between
it and the shore. Hendrick Hudson's face also appears in this
scene, and is a copy of the original portrait, painted in 1592, and
many years since presented to the State of New York by one of its

MINUITS' PURCHASE OF THE ISLAND OF MANHATTAN.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 19
oldest families, of Dutch descent. The painting is of undoubted
authenticity, and may be seen in the City Hall of New York.
Hastings-on-the-Hudson, three miles north of Yonkers, is the
home of many New York families. When Garibaldi was keeping
his soap and candle factory on Staten Island, and resided there, he
used to spend his Sundays here with Italian friends, most of whom
were prominent musical artists in the Italian Opera. A friend,
living at Dobb's Ferry, an accomplished student and enthusiastic
lover of Italian literature, often entertained him at dinner. Gari
baldi is represented by those who met him at this time as a finely-
formed man, self-possessed, with a face of striking intelligence, and
great modesty of manner. He was well versed in the works of
Italy's great authors, and discussed them in excellent English —
very quiet, unconsequential, speaking from a full mind when he did
speak, and saying nothing when he could not.
DoBBS' Ferry next introduces us to the land of tradition. The
legends of the Hudson are numberless. They were once told at
every hearthside, though now they are passing from remembrance.
Our busy, care-laden people allow the statistics of to-day to
crowd upon the legends of the past, yet the " Fairy of Dobbs'
Ferry" will undoubtedly long hold a place in the memorial book
of the Hudson.
The romantic story of an interrupted wedding and a lost bride,
for whom unavailing search is made, is concluded by the advent of
a Fay "Leading Kati'ina thro' the ruined halls."
A kiss reunites the separated lovers, who were both transformed
into fairies. ' ' And stiU some people of that section say.
That when the stars roll in their middle way.
The immortal pair amid the ruins stand,
Just us they should be, always hand in hand ! "

20 THE tourist's GUIDE.
We believe there are other versions of this legend, some of which
allow Hendrick and Katrina to
" Live out their days
In more common ways;"
but we " tell the tale as 'twas told to us ! "
Dobbs' Ferry jwas also christened in blood during the black days
of the Revolution. It was here, also, that the first meeting of
Arnold withJAndre was appointed to take place, but it proved
unsuccessful. And here, too, the English, forgetting the fearful
and fatal precedents they had given us, made unavailing interces
sion for the life of their brave but unfortunate Spy.
PlERMONT lies almost opposite, and near the line between New
York and New Jersey. Here the Palisades recede from the shore
and lose their precipitous character. The ridge continues, however,
in a series of hills, reaching, in some places, a height of nearly
seven hundred feet, but nowhere resuming the peculiar formation
of the Palisades. It is curious to remark, that for nearly thirty
miles up the Hudson, the western shore presents either some variety
of trap rock, conglomerate, or secondary foundation, while the
eastern shore abounds in granite or primitive rock, as also the
entire Island of Manhattan. Piermont derives its name from its
pier, one mile in length. It was once a branch and is now a main
terminus of the Erie railroad. A fine, broad Boulevard is now
being opened from Piermont to Rockland Lake, seven miles dis
tant, passing the pretty town of Nyack, and forming a delightful
addition to the pleasant drives in this vicinity.
Not far from Piermont lies the old town of Tappan, where Major
Andre was tried, condemned and executed. Washington often
made this place his headquarters during the Revolution. The
house of the commander-in-chief and the jail in which Andre was

THE tourist's GUIDE.

21

imprisoned, may be seen here, although the same practical spirit
which in old Salem has transformed the court-room where the ter
rible death sentence was pronounced upon the luckless witches of
that day, into a grocery store, has in Tappan converted the jail
into a public house known as the Seventy-six Stone House. The
old Dutch church in which Andre was tried, stood near by, but
was replaced by a new edifice in 1836. The place of his execution
is within a short walk of the old Stone House.

c-~ff~^^mr'^rj^_s^^

III.

' RVINGTON bears a memorial name, and must always
be a place of interest to every American. It was
formerly known as Dearman's Station. It is four
miles north of Dobbs' Ferry, and communicates by
ferry with Piermont, on the opposite shore.
Between Dobbs' Ferry and Irvington is Nevis, once
the homestead of Colonel James Hamilton. It contains many
records of the olden time, among which is the portrait of Wash
ington, taken by Stuart, which is considered the best likeness, and
has been the most widely copied, of any of his portraits. Very
near Nevis is the home of Mr. Cottinet, built of Caen stone, and
frequently pronounced the most elegant residence on the Hudson.
Bierstadt, the artist, has a fine villa at Irvington. The house
is of stone, and is provided with a large studio.
Every year adds to the list of men of note, as well as men of
wealth — the two are not always synonymous — who seek homes
upon the picturesque banks of this noble stream, of which Irving
said : " The Hudson is, in a manner, my first and last love ; and,

THE tourist's GUIDE. 23
after all my wanderings and seeming infidelities, I return to it
with a heart-felt preference over all the rivers of the world." •
The Hudson is often compared with the Rhine, but one of the
most discriminating of travelers, George William Curtis, pro
nounces the Hudson larger and grander than the Rhine. " The
Hudson, says he, " implies a continent behind. For vineyards,
it has forests ; for a belt of water, a majestic stream. The Danube
has, in parts, glimpses of such grandeur. The Elbe has sometimes
such delicately pencilled effects. But no European river is so
lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea." Yet
different people view the same streams and scenes with very diverse
emotions. An industrious Scotchman, who had accumulated a very hand
some property, recently sent to the " auld countrie" for his father,
with a view that he should share his prosperity, and slip away from
his lease of life as smoothly as possible. One day a friend of the
family paid a visit to the elegant mansion on the Hudson, where
the old gentleman was living with his son, and took occasion to
compliment the proprietor of the estate on its surpassing loveli
ness and cozy comfort. The owner, full of love for his beautiful
home, said he looked upon it and its surroundings as "a perfect
heaven on earth." " Heaven on earth !" growled the venerjible
Scot, " heaven on earth, and no' a thimblefu' o' whuskey in the
haill house !"
Sunny Side, the residence of the late Washington Irving, is at
onee a poet's cottage lost in verdure and flowers, and a reminiscence
of olden time. The house abounds in relics of the old Dutch
style. A venerable weathercock, of portly dimensions — we are
informed by Irving in the Knickerbocker — " which once battled
with the wind on the top of the Stadt-house of New Amsterdam, in

24 THE tourist's GUIDE.
the time of Peter Stuyvesant, now erects his crest on the gable end
of my edifice. A gilded horse, in full gallop, once the weather
cock of the great Van der Heyden palace of Albany, glitters in the
sunshine and veers with every breeze, on the peaked turret over
my portal."
The Melrose ivy which embowers the eastern side of the cottage,
is a memento of the friendship of two great men — Walter Scott and
Washington Irving — the earlier slips having been presented by Sir
Walter, and planted by the hand of Irving himself. The original
house was built by Wolfert Acker, in the days of the Dutch Gov
ernors, and bore over the door the inscription " Lust in Rust," the
meaning of which is " pleasure in quiet."
It was to this pleasant retreat that Mr. Irving came to find a
home, soon after his return to this country, in 1832, after an
absence of seventeen years from his native land, and having won a
world-wide fame for himself and for American literature. At
that time Irving and Cooper were the only American authors whose
names were known in Europe.
A bust of Irving was taken about this time by Mr. Ball Hughes,
which has been considered by his friends a satisfactory likeness.
A colossal bust, by Macdonald, has been ordered by a liberal citizen,
for Prospect Park, Brooklyn, and bids fair to be a remarkable suc
cess, showing Mr. Irving as he was in mature age, ere his health
failed. Is it not time that our beautiful Central Park, which has been
long ornamented with a bust of Schiller, should possess a sculp
tured memorial of Irving and Cooper ? One of Mr. Irving's
visitors at the "Roost" — afterwards re-christened Sunnyside — was
a young foreigner, then boarding in New York at the popular hotel
which stood on the site of Stewart's down-town store. This guest

THE tourist's GUIDE. 25
has since been known as Emperor Napoleon III., and as the man
of Sedan. It does not appear that the horoscope of the youth was
cast at the cottage, or that his future elevation and downfall were
even guessed at there. In 1853, however, Mr. Irving wrote thus
significantly: "Napoleon and Eugenie, Emperor and Empress!
The one I have had as a guest at my cottage, the other I have
held as a pet child upon my knee in Granada. The last I saw of
Eugenie Montijo, she was one of the reigning belles of Madrid ;
and she and her giddy circle had swept away my charming friend,
the beautiful and accomplished  , into their career of fashion
able dissipation. Now, Eugenie is upon the throne, and  is a
voluntary recluse in a convent of one of the most rigorous orders.
Poor  ! Perhaps, however, her fate may ultimately be the hap
piest of the two. ' The storm with her is o'er and she's at rest,' but the
other in launched from a returnless shore, wpon a dangerous sea,
infamous for its tremendous shipwrecks. Am I to live to see the
catastrophe of her career, and the end of this suddenly conjured up
empire, which seems to be of such stuff as dreams are made of.
I confess my personal acquaintance with the individuals in this
historical romance gives me uncommon interest in it ; but I con
sider it stamped with danger and instability, and as liable to
extravagant vicissitudes as one of Dumas' novels."
There may be no profound sagacity or special gift of prophecy in
these surmises, but they are curiously in accordance with ihe finale
of 1870, which the seer did not live to see.
It was at Sunnyside, also, that Daniel Webster, then Secretary
of State, paid a visit in 1842, giving Mr. Irving the unexpected
information of his appointment as Minister to Spain. This com
pliment seems to have been due to the influence of Mr. Webster
alone, and it is pleasant to see one man of intellect thus render

26 THE tourist's guide.
homage to another. Nor is it alone with the more highly endowed
that the classic annalist of New York has won his fame. Prior to
January 1st, 1857, the aggregate sale of Irving's works in America
was about 500,000 volumes. This estimate does not include 98,000
volumes of the " Life of Washington," sold to January, 1857, nor
the large sales of " Woolfert's Roost." The sale of Irving's
writings exceed what has been claimed for the works called " sen
sation books," and is creditable to the taste of the nation. At
Sunnyside were written all of his later books, many noted guests
were entertained there, and a most honored and stainless life was
lived out to its end. On a gray, November day, with the
Bible open near him, which had once belonged to that fair be-
throthed, for whose dear sake he had lived unmated full fifty years,
he went to join her, where lovers shall be no more separated, by
time, and change, and death, before the Throne of God.
A long procession followed Irving to his grave over a road which
winds through " Sleepy Hollow," and there he will sleep till the
" Heavens be no more."
Tarrytown lies north of Irvington, twenty-nine miles from New
York. Let the stranger land there, or step from the cars as we did
once, not far from noon, upon a blazing summer day, and ere he
completes a stroll through the town, he will conclude that he has
found " Sleepy Hollow," indeed. There is an absence of the Yan
kee element of hurry, which is very restful to the spirit. The air
of dolce far niente, which seems to pervade the place, might be
exasperating, under some circumstances, to a busy man — but do
busy men ever set foot in Tarrytown, except when they have leisure
to take summer holiday ? It is an open question which we will
leave those wiser than ourselves to discuss and settle. Meanwhile
the Editor locks up his newspaper office and goes home to dinner ;

THE Tourist's guide. 27
the grocer falls asleep ; somebody gravely tells you that Broadway,
the pride of Tarrytown, is "just a continuation of Broadway,
New York, which comes all the way up here" — which you incline
to doubt, and — if it is June, the breezes are more odorous of sweet
syringa blossoms than any breezes of city or country which you
ever enjoyed before. This is Tarrytown and there are superb drives
here. A. " team" seems to be owned by everybody, for no one
that you can see goes a-foot. Hack fare is paid by "a quarter"
in postal currency, and the hired carriage rumbles contentedly
along, distanced by more than one city coach with drivers in livery.
That painful uniformity of architecture, which is so noticeable in
some of the river towns, does not meet you here. Taste and
wealth have not only reared many elegant homes, but have perched
many most beautiful residences on the hill-side, whence they look
down, as from an eyrie, upon the town — on the old Dutch Church
and famous Sleepy Hollow.
The Show Place of Tarrytown is the white marble edifice
known as the Paulding Manor, which stands just below the town.
It was built by the descendants of Commodore Paulding, and is
one of the finest specimens of the pointed Tudor style of domestic
architecture in the United States. It is also the most conspicuous
dwelling to be seen by the traveler on the Lower Hudson.
It seems singular to us that, among all the writers who have
visited and written of Sleepy Hollow, so few have, within our
knowledge, described, in fitting terms, the extreme beauty of the
hillside landscape, which lends enchantment to the background of
any view of the town and valley.
Upon Broadway stands a fine monument, erected by the people
of Westchester county, October 7th, 1853, with this inscription :

28 THE tourist's guide.
On this spot,
The 23d day of September, 1780, the Spy,
Major John Andre,
Adjutant General of the British Army, was
Captured by
John Paulding, David Williams and Isaac Van Wart,
AH natives of this country.
History has told the rest.
It is a curious fact, and one not generally known, that the tree
beneath which Andre was captured was finally smitten by lightning
in July, 1801, on the very day of Benedict Arnold's death in Lon
don. Our American poets have often drawn inspiration from far
less suggestive themes than this.
Another singular incident relates to a cypress tree which grew
for many years above Andre's grave. In 1832 a vessel was sent to
this country by the order of George IV., to convey the remains of
Andre to England to be reinterred in Westminster Abbey. The roots
of this cypress tree were found entwined around the skull of poor
Andre, and a slip from the tree was carried to England and planted
in the gardens adjoining Windsor Castle. A scion from that slip
now flourishes in a garden walk which has been a favorite resort
with Queen Victoria, and the young bride, Lady Lome. Still
another tree must be mentioned in this list, of those which are now
the only living links between us and the remote past.
A few years ago the almost lifeless remains of a huge willow
tree stood on the border of a marsh near Beverly Dock, in the
Hudson Highlands, almost opposite West Point. It was known
as Arnold's Willow, because it was there, a flourishing tree, before
treason clouded his reputation. It stood by the side of the path
way by which he fled from his headquarters to the river, when his
treachery was revealed, late in September, 1780.
Arnold's flight was precipitous and perilous. A stupid officer,
who did not comprehend the case, wrote to Arnold of the arrest of

THE tourist's GUIDE. 29
Andre. The traitor was well aware that papers were in Andre's
possession, the discovery of which would seal his doom with the
stern patriots of '76. He bade his wife a hasty farewell, kissed
the babe in her arms, and then fled at full gallop down the lane,
by the old Willow Tree to the shore. His barge was in readiness ;
and, bidding the oarsmen pull southward with all their strength,
for his business was urgent, he escaped to the British sloop-of-war
Vulture, then lying in Tappan Bay.
Major Andre was executed as a spy ; but Arnold lived twenty
years to feel the tortures of a troubled conscience and the bitter
scorn of his fellow-men. He had attempted to sell the liberties of
his country for the commission of a brevet-brigadier in the British
army, and fifty thousand dollars in gold.
Those whom he had served loathed and scorned him. Comwallis
would not associate with him in Virginia ; and in England even the
Government could not gain him recognition in society.
' ' From Cain to Cataline, the world hath known
Her Traitors— vaunted votaries of crime-
Caligula and Nero sat alone
Upon the pinnacle of vice sublime ;
But they were moved by hate, or wish to climb
The rugged steeps of Fame, in letters bold
To write their name upon the scroll of Time ;
Therefore their crimes some virtue did enfold-
But Arnold ! thine had none— 'twas an for sordid gold."
We deem there are none so stern of heart, or so indifferent that
they can reflect on the fate of Andre, without a sentiment of pity.
It was known that early disappointment in love impelled that
accomplished young man to enter the army. This circumstance
increased the sympathy felt for him more than ninety years ago.
Andre's appeal to Washington that he might die a soldier's
death, doubtless touched the great heart of the ' Father of his

30 THE tourist's GUIDE.
Country,' as deeply as if it had been couched in Willis' poetical
version, at a later date, of Andre's request.
' ' Thine is the power to give —
Thine to deny —
Peace for the hour to live,
Cabnness to die !"
But in deploring the stern necessity of war, which sent Andre
to the gallows, let us not forget how Nathan Hale had previously
died for his country. He was, perhaps, the best educated young
man who left the halls of Yale for the camp of the patriot army.
In attempting to return to the American lines he was seized and
brought before Sir William Howe, who ordered him to be executed
the next morning, and the sentence was carried into most barbar
ous effect. He asked if he might see a friend and was denied.
He asked for a Bible and was refused. Even his last request,
that a clergyman might visit him, was rejected with oaths. What
a striking contrast to the conduct of Washington, who signed
Andre's death warrant, with tears. More cruel, if possible, than
all we have narrated above — Hale's letters, written the night before
his death, to his mother and other dear friends, were broken open
and burned, that the rebels might not know there was a man in
their army who could die with so much firmness. We have also heard
that " she who would been his bride went with her father at night
through the British lines, took his body from the gibbet and car
ried it home."
Will not all this extenuate the fate of Andre, and tell us, in
part, what^n'ce was paid for freedom.
Only in part, however, for there are patriots living to-day, who
can loell remember months passed in Libby Prison, when a death
like Andre's or Hale's would have been enviable — there are name-

THE tourist's GUIDE. 31
less graves at Andersonville and elsewhere, around which gather
more surpassing horrors.
Thus we muse at that monument upon that old post road, which
commemmorates the fidelity of three humble men, who said to
Andre, " Not for ten thousand guineas could you stir one single
step." We crave your pardon, fair reader, for moralizing so long, but a
blue sky and balmy air, and an after-dinner hour favoring you, at
the same spot, we will wager a new History, or a set of Irving's
works, that your thoughts will tread the same " busy backward
track" that ours have done.
It is a long walk, or a short drive around to the Old Dutch
Church, erected in 1615. It stands in the veritable Sleepy
Hollow. In its cemetery a very humble stone marks Irving's grave.
But the back window of the church is open. A fallen grave
stone is so placed as to suggest, that by its aid some one has ascer
tained whether the interior is as antique as the quaint exterior of
the old place of worship.
We are sorry to admit that we avail ourselves of the suggestion,
but 7Wt sorry that we obtain a glance inside the church.
Leaving this quiet spot, we proceed along the country road
towards the village, and not far from Sleepy Hollow notice the fine
buildings and pleasant grounds of the Jackson Military Institute.
As good schools are rare, we venture to say what we know of this
one, that it is commended by some of the best men in the country,
and that parents and guardians are welcomed here at all seasons,
and afforded every opportunity of knowing exactly what manner of
training — mental, physical and moral^o2<r boys receive here.

32 THE tourist's guide.
The Principal of this Institute, some three years since, removed
his institution to this place from Danbury, Conn., where it had
borne a most successful record for twelve years.
There are few persons who visit Tarrytown, at least upon a
summer's day, who will be able to leave it without reluctance. Yet
regrets will be forgotten by those who have leisure to cross the
river to Nyack.
Nyack-on-the-Hudson, lying opposite Tarrytown, and acces
sible by a very commodious ferryboat, is one of the gems among
the pleasant towns which lie on the Hudson's banks.
Tarrytown, with its old romance, its tragic story of Andre, its
associations with the name of Irving, its guard over Irving's hon
ored dust — its Sleepy Hollow and its Broadway — its old houses
and its fine modern residences, has become well known to the trav
eling public.
In comparison with the multitudes who visit or pass through
Tarrytown, Nyack is little frequented, yet there are those — and
their number is increasing every year — who have discovered that
Nyack is one of the most delightful and healthful of all the places
of resort upon the river. It is also very easily accessible from
New York city. There are consumptive people who have come
here, regained their vigor, and lived out long lives. The west
bank of the Hudson will soon dispute the palm with Minnesota as
a retreat for invalids. It would have done so long ago were it not
that a prophet lacks not honor, save in his own country. The
views from Nyack are not so commanding as those which are
obtained from West Point, but they are, nevertheless, grand,
inspiriting and joyous.
Trains which leave the foot of Chambers street. New York, nine
times daily, communicate with Nyack. In summer weather

PALISADES.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 33
Nyack is so easily and pleasantly reached by steamboat, that the
business man may go to the city and return to Nyack every night,
suffering no interruption to his business. There arc, comparatively,
so -few places where summer board is desirable, which are
really easy of access from New York, that we call especial
attention to Smith's Steamboat Line, which runs three commo
dious boats daily from New York, touching at Yonkers, and
nearly all places between Yonkers and Peekskill. The Nyack
ferryboat meets these steamers in the middle of the river, and the
transfer of passengers is effected with such ease and good humor
that it seems a pleasant episode of the trip, rather than that
usually much-dreaded and hateful thing — a change. Nyack is
destined to become a very popular summer resort. Every year
brings a larger throng of guests and sees additions made to the
nuinber of residences erected there by New York people. But
Nyack is not yet spoiled for those who love the country. Prices
have not gone up to balance Saratoga rates. The kindliness of a
genial and refined people is not absorbed in that mania for money-
getting which is so painfully perceptible at some of the older and
better known resorts upon the river. Yet city comforts are abun
dant here. Gas has superseded that country abomination, kerosene.
Rockland Lake Ice carts jog around composedly. Boating can be
had. Bathing is good. Riding attainable at reasonable rates.
The Smithsonian House, near the steamboat landing, is airy, com
modious, and well furnished throughout, kept by a lady who has
long been popular with those who can appreciate a well-kept house,
where they can feel perfectly at home. We commend the comforts
of the Smithsonian, from personal experience.
Guests are made welcome there, whether their stay is longer or
shorter. 3

34 THE tourist's guide.
Then, too, the Clarendon, at a little distance, bears an excellent
reputation, and is conducted by Mrs. Adams, who has had twenty
years successful experience in St. Paul, Minnesota. We should
add to these desirable places of resort, that duriiig the season
the Rockland Female Institute offers fine accommodations to sum
mer boarders.
The Institute lies just beyond the village. This fine academic
and collegiate school for young ladies was incorporated in 1855 by
the Regents of the University of the State of New York, and
opened for the reception of pupils the following year.
It was the design of its Founders to establish a Female Seminary
of the highest order, which should furnish all the facilities for
acquiring a substantial and finished education. In prosecution of
this purpose they selected one of the most beautiful sites on the
banks of the Hudson, and have expended about fifty thousand dol
lars upon the buildings and grounds.
The trustees state that in selecting Nyack as the seat of this
Institution, they were not governed exclusively by regard for the
wants of Rockland County, from which it derives its name, but by
a conviction of its remarkable adaptation by nature for the pur
poses of a seminary of learning.
We invite you, reader, to stroll with us from the village to the
Institute upon a summer evening. Boldly the noble building rises
before us, five stories in height and one hundred feet in length, a
fair and stately structure surrounded by noble trees, which reflect
honor upon the Principal of the Institute, and do credit to the soil
of Rockland County. They were planted by Rev. Mr. Mansfield
— their growth is due to the fertility of mother earth, and the
benificcnce of Heaven's dews and sunshine.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 35
It is a lovely walk or drive from the village to the Institute.
Upon one side lies that beautiful expanse of the Hudson, four
miles wide, which is known as Tappan Zee. Upon the other rise
the mountains, which in an inland and less precipitous form, are a
continuation of the Palisades. We stand upon a semi-circular
plateau surrounded on all sides by scenery of rare grandeur and
beauty, while the summer sky is over all.
There are about ten acres in the grounds of the Institute — large
gardens yield fruit and vegetables for its table. From half a
bushel to a bushel of strawberries in their season, ripen every day,
and these luxuries are placed before the pupils of the school.
Happy school girls ! Who would not become a pupil there — in
strawberry time ? Through the summer, boating, bathing and
horseback riding can be enjoyed without leaving the grounds of
the Institute — quite a number of ponies are kept for the use of the
young ladies. In winter, skating and sleigh-riding ; and all the
year round, gymnastic exercises are in favor.
There are advantages in this location which cannot be obtained
at a greater distance from the metropolis. Pupils visit New York
with ease, under the charge of their teachers, enjoyins; the art gal
leries and other attractions of the city. A station upon the Nyack
and Northern Railroad having been erected upon a portion of the
Institute grounds, trips are made in one hour from Mansfield
avenue, Nyack, to New York. This same depot, by the way, was
designed by the Principal Of the Institute, and is a model of ele
gance and good taste. Of the purely intellectual advantages of
this school it is scarcely within our province to speak, but we may
venture to say that the predictions of the high stand which this
school would take among similar institutions, uttered by the Rev.
Henry Ward Beecher, and others, when its present Principal

36 THE tourist's guide.
assumed his charge, have been, in popular estimation, abundantly
verified. This is not a "high pressure" school, where delicate girls are
taught every known "ology" — the standard of culture is high,
however, and some of the most charming young ladies in the
country have graduated here.
But we are lingering too long in Nyack — fair and favored spot
— West Point and the Catskills lie northward. Let us journey on.
Between Nyack and Haverstraw is Rockland, whose oval lake
on the hill furnishes ice for New York. It is upon a commanding
height, known by a name which must have puzzled the orthogra-
phists of olden times — Verdrieteges Hook, which has such a decep
tive appearance, viewed from the river above and below, of a grand
headland, that it has been christened Point-no-Point. The original
name signifies " grievous," given in consequence of the frequent
squalls which beset the sailor in this neighborhood.
We opine that there are other Points, along the Hudson which
will be called " grievous " by visitors, on summer nights, when lit
tle, stuffy rooms and kerosene lights, feather beds and mosquitoes,
conspire to make up the sum of human evils.
We will not indicate further where such "summer board" may
be found, save to say that where the landlord's bills are the highest
in proportion to the accommodations offered, there look out for
mosquito bills of unusual severity and power.
Haverstraw is a pretty little village, where, upon what is
known as " Treason Hill," stands the house of Joshua Hett
Smith, where Andre and Benedict Arnold met to arrange the terms
of the surrender of West Point. It is of stone, with a piazza in
front, and stands on the hillside beyond the flats. Above Haver-

ROCKLAND FEMALE INSTITUTE.

THB tourist's GUIDE. 37
Straw is a line of limestone cliff about half a mile in length, and
very valuable, producing a million bushels of lime every year,
besides stone for rough masonry, and for macadamizing roads.
Directly opposite Haverstraw is Sing Sing. Many fine country
seats crown the Heights of Sing Sing, and a number of educational
establishments are located here. The great Croton Acqueduct at
this point is very interesting, being carried over the Sing Sing Kill
by an arch of stone masonry 88 feet between the abutments, and
100 feet above the water.
The mouth of Croton River is in this vicinity. The name is
derived from an Indian word signifying "stony place."
The State Prison is a little south of the village and close by the
banks of the Hudson. This is not the first instance of the erection
of a prison commandirfg a fine water prospect, for Byron wrote :
" Loch Leman lies by ChiUon's walls."
The prisoners are guarded by sentinels, in place of being enclosed
by walls. The whole area of the grounds comprises about 130
acres. The railway passes through and beneath the prisons, but
from the river they are seen to advantage.
The annual Camp Meetings of the Methodist Episcopal Church
of New York and vicinity, which, for thirty-six years have been
held at Sing Sing, add, in the summer time, an element of absorb-
ino' interest to the attractions of the town.
About three hundred tents are yearly occupied by families from
New York and from towns along the Hudson River. Many im
provements were made on the ground last year. Gas was intro
duced, and a reservoir of water was constructed, capable of holding
7 000 o'allons. The water is conducted from a spring through gal
vanized iron pipes.

38 THE tourist's guide.
The arrangements for comfort, it is expected, will be carried still
further toward jicrfcction in the present summer.
Croton Point, four miles above Sing Sing, on the eastern
bank of the Hudson, is noted for its famous lake, and its almost
equally famous vineyard.
For more than thirty years the name of Dr. Underbill, of Croton
Point, Westchester County, has been a household word in connec
tion with the finest grapes in the market. For seventeen years this
successful cultivator of the grape, laid aside an annual stock of pure
wine — the genuine undoctored juice of the best grapes in the coun
try, before a single bottle of it was offered for sale. For ten years
past Underbill's wine.s have been known as the pure grape wines, supe
rior to all others made in this country ; they are recommended by
some four hundred prominent medical men in New York city, and
have received the approval of the invalid and the connoisseur every
where. The Croton Point vineyards, owned by the late Dr. Under
bill, cover an area of over sixty acres, and the yield is from 7,000
to 8,000 gallons of wine per annum, besides several tons of fruit
sent directly to market. None of these wines are offered for sale
until they are over four years old. And we hope that such wines as
these — the pure juice of the grape — may drive out the " doctored "
wines, with foreign names and domestic origin, which (dis)grace so
many tables.
Visitors can reach Croton Dam by carriages from Sing Sing,
from Croton, and from Croton Falls upon the Harlem road. This
celebrated dam is 250 feet long, 40 feet high, and 70 feet thick at
the base. The capacity of the Lake is 500,000,000 gallons.
Another and much larger reservoir is now nearly completed, and it
is anticipated that, when it is finished, all danger of suffering from
scarcity of water in time of drouth will be obviated.

CROTON DAM.

THE tourist's guide. 39
We are conscious that we are what a school-girl would call
" dreadfully statistical" along here, but Croton dam is a mighty
fact, to be admired and wondered at, while it does not stir the heart
like the memorials which we left behind us at Irvington and Sleepy
Hollow. Stony Point, three miles above Haverstraw, on the west side of
the river, has a record in history. It commands the waters of the
Hudson, which arc here contracted into a very narrow channel.
Wayne's Black Walnut, one of our few historical trees, stood,
till within a few years, on the river side of the road between Hav
erstraw and Stony Point.
" I'll storm hell, if you will only plan it," said the impetuous
General Wayne — Mad Anthony, as his countrymen called him —
when conversing with Washington on the subject of attacking the
fort on Stony Point, in the summer of 1779.
At noon on the 15th of July, Wayne led a large party of Massa
chusetts infantry cautiously through the defiles of the mountains,
and at eight o'clock in the evenina; rendezvoused in a thicket below.
the fort. He had formed his plans with care. The dogs in the
neighborhood were all killed to prevent their attracting the notice
of the sentinels by barking. A shrewd negro, named Pompey, fur
nished the officers of the garrison with berries and fruit, had their
unbounded confidence, and obtained the countersign regularly on
the plea that, it being hoeing-corn time, his master would not let
him go to the fort except at night. He was employed by Wayne as
his o-uide. Under a large black walnut tree, on the border of
the thicket, and not far from the road, Wayne gave his orders to
his officers, and directed them to follow Pompey. At eleven o'clock
thev moved from that tree toward the fort as stealthily as tigers
crouching for their prey. Pompey gave the countersign to the

40 THE tourist's GUIDE.
sentinels, and, while conversing with them, they were seized and
gagged by the Americans. Thus silence was secured and alarm
prevented, until the party, in two columns, ascended the rough
promontory on which the fort lay. Then they answered picket-guns
by bayonet thrusts. The garrison were aroused by the cry, " To
arms!" It was too late; victory was with Wayne; and at two
o'clock in the morning he wrote to Washington : " Dear General,
the American flag waves here." The present light-house and bell-
tower marks the site of the old fort, and are always pointed out.
Opposite, on the eastern shore, is Verplanck's Point, which
may be recognized from the steamer's deck, by several large brick-
making establishments, with their kilns and drying-houses.
Between Stony, and Verplanck's Points the river is only half a
mile in width. Upon this narrow pass look down commanding
heights, and both the British foe and the rebel freemen estimated
its advantages and contended for its possession in old '76.
Peekskill is reached soon after rounding Verplanck's Point.
We have lingered long upon our way hither, and yet have recounted
but a few of the traditions of the past, or the stories of the present.
We have now reached a village which will some day be made
famous. The most popular of American pulpit orators, whose
name is a household word through the Eastern and Northern States,
has for many years resided in summer on his " place," a little east
of the village. We sa.j place advisedly, for although the reverend
gentleman himself often writes and speaks of it as a farm, he also
gives us such appalling accounts of the expense of raising cabbages
and potatoes there, that we are constrained to believe, that if his
success is a fair sample of the ordinary lot of farmers, our country
will certainly be brought to flnancial ruin by its unlucky farming
element.

STONY POINT.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 41
By-and-by, this busy brain will work no more. The large heart
will cease its beating. The faithful leader of souls will go "up
higher." Then a history of the most gifted of the " Beecher
family" will be written, which will unveil somewhat of the charms
with which its central figure has invested that happy Peekskill
home. We dare say no more. Would that Fanny Fern, who
praises or criticises with the most charming and audacious disregard
of " whether folks like it, or not," would pay a visit to Peekskill,
and gossip about it thereafter. There's a hint for you, Fanny I
Please, take it in good part, and not give us a " Ledger lecture "
for venturing the suggestion.
Peekskill was, in 1797, the headquarters of " old Israel Put
nam," then a commander in our army. The oak tree is still shown
upon which he hung Palmer, the British spy.
The Van Cortlandt house in this vicinity is one of the old houses
of which we have too few. It was once the temporary residence .of
Washington. Near it is a venerable church, erected in 1767, within
whose churchyard stands a monument to Paulding, one of the cap
tors of Andre.
Many a gay party rides over to Lake Mahopac from Peekskill.
Lake Mahopac lies in the western part of the town of Carmel,
Putnam County. The lake is nine miles in circumference, and
about fourteen miles from the Hudson at Peekskill. It is an
attractive Summer resort, but can never vie with the charms of
Lake George, nor will Fashion ever hold here the perpetual festi
val of Saratoga.
Mahopac is five miles distant from Croton Falls, a station on the
New York and Harlem railway. To this line we shall make few
allusions, as it has grown up to meet the exigencies of travel

42 'THE tourist's GUIDE.
through a region which is neither as rich in historic or modern
interest as the route we have chosen.
The friends of the Tribune and its veteran editor, will not fail
to criticise us, however, if we dismiss the Harlem road from notice
without a mention of Chappaqua, one of its stations, near which is
located the farm of Horace Greeley.
Mr. Bonner has a pleasant word for Mr. Greeley, who, he .says,
goes up to his farm, " Chappaqua " (or Chop-away), on Fridays,
and that, on arriving, he immediately proceeds to chop. He
never foregoes that. Mr. Greeley is not only very courteous in
showing visitors around, but manifests great enjoyment in the
scenery, and in pointing out the different sights ; but, after a
while, he says to his visitor : "If you will amuse yourself a while
now, I guess I'll do a little chopping." Mr. Greeley has done a
good deal with the axe in his day. He has lopped off many use
less limbs from the political tree, hewed off any number of decayed
and dead branches, tapped numberless " sap-heads, " successfully
set a goodly number of fruit-bearing grafts, remorselessly hacked
down scores of useless old trees, and pulled out of their roots hun
dreds of old stumps that encumbered the earth and prevented the
growth of those public crops for which Mr. G. has so long been
laboring on the national farm. " Chappaqua " affords a fine illus
tration of what can be accomplished by industrious, intelligent
farming — and plenty of capital.
In Westchester County, there is a Home, to which we must
allude. The alarming prevalence of consumption in the vicinity of New
York has induced a number of influential gentlemen to establish a
'' Home for Consumptives," where such relief as is possible maybe
afforded to those suffering with this disease. For the present, a

THE tourist's GUIDE. 43
building has been secured at Tremont, Westchester County, and all
comforts suitable for patients have been provided. Medical aid of
the best character will be afforded, and nothing will be left undone
which will tend to invigorate or sustain the afflicted. There are
now accommodations for thirty ; and, as soon as possible, land will
be secured at White Plains, a station upon the Harlem line, and
permanent and suitable buildings be erected. The design is to
make the institution a perfectly free charity ; but, in the outset,
money is received from patients who have means, because the fiimls
of the society are not ample.
Another enterprise of interest has been recently projected at
New Rochelle, a delightful town in Wcstehester County, which is
reached by the trains upon the New York and New Haven road.
Something similar to the well known Llewellyn Park, of Orange,
N. J., has been laid out at or near New Rochelle, and called
Huguenot Park — named, we suppose, from the fact that New
Rochelle was originally settled by French Huguenots.
This large enclosure is to be held in common by owners of adja
cent property whose grounds open into it' — all its groves, its lawns,
its drives, its rocky eminences, becoming, as it were, a part of each
man's premises.
This park contains five hundred acres, and includes within its
limits a magnificent forest of about one hundred and fifty acres,
several small lakes of great beauty, and numerous picturesque
scenes. A portion of the ground is very high, and affords splendid
views of the Sound, the Long Island shore, the Hudson Palisades,
and a wide expanse of country, dotted with villages and farms.
It is owned by the Huguenot Park Association, comprised of
numerous wealthy gentlemen in New Rochelle and vicinity. The
grounds have been laid out in English landscape style ; the whole

44 THE tourist's GUIDE.
has been thoroughly drained ; winding drives of ample width
extend for six miles through a varied succession of hill and dale,
forest and lawn ; and every means taste could suggest has been
used to enhance the picturesque beauties of the place.
Pass on the good example. Friends, through the Empire State.
It is by combined efforts of this kind that parks may be rendered
abundant ; and now, before it is too late, tracts of native beauty
in proximity to our towns should be saved from the axe and
the plough.
But we must return to the vicinity of Peekskill, and then bid
farewell to this fair Westchester County.
The time is rapidly approaching when railroad trains will fly
with lightning speed from one end of our continent to the other,
without even stopping to " take a drink " by the way. A novel
method of supplying locomotives with water, which has been in
use for some time in England, is about to be introduced into our
country. The Hudson River Railroad Company have already
made successful experiments. At Montrose Station, near Peeks-
kill, there was constructed, not long since, in the centre of the
track, a trough, one thousand two hundred feet in length, flfteen
inches in depth, and eighteen inches wide. This was lined with
sheet iron, heavily painted. The trough is perfectly straight, will
hold sixteen thousand gallons of water, and is fed by a couple of
springs. A locomotive was also fitted up with an ingeniously con
structed pipe, connecting with the tender, and having a nozzle which
can be instantaneously dropped into the water, while the train is
running thirty miles an hour. When the first experiment was
made, the water rushed with a roar into the tender, filling it to the
complete satisfaction of all concerned.

THB tourist's GUIDE. 45
Query — will thirsty passengers ever be supplied in the same
wholesale way upon " fast " trains ? But there is heat, bustle and
dust upon the train — silence with our stately steamer.
Above Peekskill is Anthony's Nose, a prominent /editMre of the
river, rising, as it does, one thousand two hundred and twenty-
eight feet. From this point to Fort Montgomery, a chain was
extended in the Revolution, and some of the links are now in the
Albany State Library.
A little below Anthony's Nose, upon the opposite shore, is Don-
derberg, or Thunder Mountain. The old legend runs, that the
Dutch goblin who keeps the Donderberg, brings down frightful
squalls upon such craft as fail to drop the peaks of their mainsails
in salute as they pass.
Caldwell's Landing lies directly opposite Peekskill, and is
noted as the spot where such persistent and enthusiastic search has
been vainly made for the hidden treasures of the famous Captain
Kidd. Remains of the apparatus used for this purpose are still
seen in bold, black relief at the Donderberg Point, as the boat
rounds it toward the Horse-race.
At Peekskill, the river makes a sudden turn to the west, which
is called the race, and we have fairly entered the Highlands.

'-Sl'V^

^'

c*-^— 5

IV.

'^"'"^¦'¦"J^JIAGARA has its majestic grandeur — Lake George
its picturesque beauty — but the Hudson has West
Point and the Highlands. Around West Point
cluster a thousand memories and traditions ; memo
ries of the Revolution and the heroes who fought the
good fight which gave us our freedom ; memories
which cling to the crumbling walls of old Fort Put
nam, still grimly frowning above the green, smooth-cut sward of the
Parade ; traditions of romantic adventures and of hair-breadth
escapes ; traditions of the escapades of wild cadets, now grown
gray in their country's service, and wearing hard-earned laurels ;
traditions of the oadet-life of those whose memory will ever live in
the hearts of their countrymen — a better and more lasting witness
of their courage, virtue and nobility, than the shafts of monu
mental stone raised to their memory by surviving comrades, and
placed on the very spot where they, in the first flush of health and
hope and opening manhood, dreamed of long, happy and noble
lives.

2y\EVJ FROM WEST POINT.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 47
West Point has sent forth an army of gentlemen, of scholars
and of warriors. It has also sent forth a band of engineers, to
whose peaceful labors our mariners owe a never-ending debt of
gratitude — engineers who have patiently and laboriously mapped
the coast of a continent, and marked the reefs and shoals which
had often wrecked the home-bound vessel, almost in sight of port.
West Point has ennobled all who have endeavored to profit by
its advantages. There are names now tarnished, which onee stood
high upon its roll-call. There are those also who were very nearly
the " Boobies " of their class, whose later career has been honored
and brilliant.
West Point is a great centre of interest during the examinations,
which are conducted in the month of .June. Then, the family
friends of the enterprising cadets, and many who secretly fancy
they may sometime be the "nearer one yet and the dearer," as
well as scores of butterflies who only want to have a good time
somewhere, turn their faces thitherward.
West Point always looks charmingly fresh and green in leafy
June. We mean nothing personal toward the cadets by this
remark, and indeed need not fear that any military youth will
construe it as such, for a more self-satisfied individual than the
average West Point cadet is scarcely to be found anywhere in the
world. Those who are interested in military tactics and drill, will be
best pleased with West Point in .July and August, when the cadets
go into camp, and lead the life of soldiers in the field. Drills,
parades and guard-mountings are the order of the day.
At the close of August, a grand ball is given by the cadets.
The next day they "break up camp," and resume their regular
quarters and studies.

48 THE tourist's GUIDE.
Cozzens' West Point Hotel commands a fine view of the Military
Buildings. Upon its piazza, on a fine June afternoon. President
Grant can be seen enjoying his after-dinner cigar, and so, I pre
sume, have a majority of the Presidents before him.
This house was also for many years the summer headquarters of
the late Lieutenant-General Scott, who died here in May, 1866.
It was Washington who first suggested West Point as the most
eligible situation for the Military Academy. The first steps were
taken by Congress to establish it in 1802, but the school was not
in operation until 1812. The average number of cadets is about
two hundred and fifty. The academy is of stone, two hundred
and seventy-five feet long by seventy-five feet wide, and three
stories high. The United States lands were purchased (two thou
sand one hundred and five acres), and control over two hundred
and fifty acres in extent was ceded by New York to the General
Government in 1826.
Kosciusko's Garden and Monument are on the river bank, near
the camp-ground. Near the Garden is a fine Spring, said to have
been discovered by the Patriot himself. His monument is of white
marble. It was erected by the corps of cadets in 1828, at a cost
of five thousand dollars.
Chain Battery Walk, which leads here from the North Wharf,
has been trod by the feet of many distinguished people, as next
to the Government Buildings and the parade ground. Kosciusko's
Garden is one of the chief show places of this region.
Upon the parade ground a bronze statue of General John Sedg
wick has been erected within a few years. The ruins of Forts
Clinton, Putnam, Webb and Wyllys are sometimes visited.
In the river, opposite West Point, lies Constitution Island, upon
which portions of the fortifications of '76 are still to be seen.

NEAR COZZENS' LANDING.

CROW NEST.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 49
We may be pardoned, perhaps, for mentioning the more modern
interest which is attached to Constitution Island, as the home of
Miss Susan Warner and her sister. All book-lovers will remember
the sensation created by Miss Warner's " Wide, Wide World," in
1850. Thirty-five thousand copies are said to have been sold in
the United States alone.
Miss Warner's numerous writings have attained a just celebrity,
though some of her books are open to the criticism, that one can
not read them without feeling guilty of eavesdropping at a parlor
key-hole, where some "tall " love-making is in progress.
Her literary success enabled her to purchase her present pleasant
home. It is said that the apples in her orchard look very inviting
to the " boys," when they row across to the Island.
There are rumors afloat, hinting that the literary sisters have
more than once rushed forth, with woman's natural weapon, the
broomstick, in hand, to drive from their cherry trees an invading
foe. We don't vouch for this story, mind you — but we will say,
that perhaps it is just as well that the soil and the climate of Con
stitution Island are not favorable to the growth of water melons, for
we should fear that a melon patch would never " do well" under
the shadow of West Point.
Cozzens' Hotel, one and one-half miles below Cozzen's West
Point Hotel, occupies a splendid situation, and is kept by a pro
prietor who believes in "printer's ink," and by its aid drew one
hundred and sixty guests hither during the first week in June of
the present year. For many years, crowds have come here in the
heats of July and August — now, the Saratoga trunks arrive as
early as the house is open for guests.
The Parry House nestles on the river bank, close by, and is a
fine new hotel. On one side are the mountains, abounding in walks
4

50 ¦ THE tourist's GUIDE.
and horseback rides, and in magnificent views and romantic lakes
that furnish occupation to the artist and the sportsman. On the
other, the Hudson flows grandly by, dotted with white sails, musical
with the splashing of wheels of numerous steamers, furnishing a
broad, cool avenue from hot, dusty streets to the green hill-sides.
The West Shore railroad is enthusiastically prophesied by West
Pointers, and we do not doubt that it will be an accomplished fact
in " the good time coming." The village of Highland Falls, in
this vicinity, is so rarely noted by the river tourist, that few dream
of a census report for it of three thousand inhabitants as permanent
population, and over four thousand in the summer season. *
The Donald-Highland Institute is situated in the village of
Highland Falls, half a mile from Cozzens' Hotel and Landing, and
a little more than a mile below West Point Military Academy.
This school, under the charge of Robert Donald, A. M., affords
superior facilities for fitting pupils to pass the West Point examina
tions. Parents who seek a school for their sons where constant
progress is the aim and rule, will do well to bear in mind the
Donald-Highland Institute.
During "the season," the Institute is transformed into a home
for summer visitors, and becomes one of the most important of
the Oak Grove cottages, under the care of Messrs. Goodsell Bros.
It is a romantic walk from Highland Falls to the Steamboat and
Ferry landing. Upon the opposite shore the Hudson River trains,
like jointed reptiles, glide along, pausing at Station Garrison, to
acommodate travel to, and from. West Point.
Among the Highlands, on the eastern shore, opposite West
Point, at an elevation of four hundred feet above the river, stands
an old Episcopal church, built in 1760.

COLD SPRING.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 51
It is said, that one of the aids of Washington, when riding by
this church and noticing its windows broken in, said : " General,
that is a Tory church ! "
" No ! " replied Washington, indignantly. " If that is a Tory
church, then I am a Tory."
Two miles distant are the picturesque " Indian Falls," which
have been so often seen upon canvas by those who will never dis
cover whether in reality there are " pictures in its amber water."
Cold Spring is two miles north of Garrison's Station, on the
Hudson River railway. It is a village upon the hill-side, above
which rises the stately granite crown of Bull Hill — called by clas
sical folks, Mt. Taurus.
Upon an elevated plateau, near the village, is Underoliff, the
country seat of the late George P. Morris, where for many years
a princely hospitality was extended to guests from the literary and
fashionable circles of the metropolis. Over this attractive home,
presided Mrs. Morris, the lovely lady who furnished Washington
Irving with the original of his beautiful portrait of " The Wife,"
in a sketch which has perhaps been as much admired as any effort
of his pen.
Standing upon the terrace at Underoliff, and looking across the
river, we see old Cro' Nest and Storm King. Above old Cro'
Nest, on summer eves, rises the Evening Star, resting, to all
appearance, as directly upon its summit as if it were placed there
by human hands for an ornament or a beacon light. Sweeter
words were never penned, than Morris wrote, referring to this star
on Cro' Nest's brow :
' ' Where Hudson's wave, o'er silvery sands,
Winds through the hhls afar.
Old Cro' Nest, like a Monarch, stands.
Crowned with a single star.^'

52 THE tourist's guide.
The scene of " The Culprit Fay" — Rodman Drake's exquisite
poem — was laid among these hills, where
" The Moon looks down on old Cro' Nest,
She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,
And seems his huge, gi'ay form to throw.
In a Silver Cone on the wave below! "
The name " Crow Nest " was at first applied to a deep, rocky
depression which exists near the summit, but of late years the
term has been adopted for the mountain itself.
Breakneck Hill, which rises above Mt. Taurus, separated from
it by a valley, formerly owned a genuine " Old Man of the Moun
tain." But, alas ! we went to war with Mexico, and blasted some
of Nature's northern fortresses to furnish rock for the construction
of artificial southern forts, and the natural curiosity known as St.
Anthony's face was forever destroyed. It may be said that the
head is broken, but the Neck remains.
Near Cold Spring is the celebrated Foundry where the Parrott
guns are cast.
Upon the western shore of the Hudson is Cornwall Land
ing, one of the most gay and fashionable resorts upon the river.
In the vicinity of Storm King, upon a lofty plateau, which is
reached by either the Newburgh or the Cornwall road, is Idlewild.
Here, with that " rose on his cheek whose root is Death," the
Poet, Willis, came to die, and lived fifteen years — an invalid,
whose life was prolonged by the pure atmosphere of the mountains.
Newburgh is one of the most delightful places upon the Hudson.
It is an old town — a fashionable town — a hospitable town. Here,
Washington made his headquarters during the war. Here, the
last survivor of Washington's Life Guard was buried, in 1856.
His monument is erected near the Old Stone House of Revolu-

WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS AT NEWBURGH.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 53
tionary fame — a view of which we present elsewhere. In this
house are treasured all sorts of relics : old Hessian boots that, by
their weight, were evidently never intended for those " who fight
and run away" — victory or capture would inevitably be the portion
of their wearers ; old swords which have a history written in blood ;
trappings of soldiers, that have lost the glitter and the tinsel, " the
pride, the pomp and circumstance of glorious war;" and a piano
of such discord that rash critics might suppose it to date back to
the time of the Flood rather than the Revolution.
The Old House was built in 1750, and is now the property of
the State. Many of the scenes in Cooper's novel of " The Spy"
were laid in this vicinity.
Newburgh was settled in 1698. It has a population of about
fifteen thousand, and is the termination of the Newburgh Branch
of the Erie railway, by which over a million tons of coal are annu
ally delivered, and shipped by water to various destinations.
Lovers of the fine arts will regard the coal interests of this place
as secondary to its interest as the late home of the lamented
Downing, whose works upon Landscape Gardening and Horticul
ture have rendered his name familiar to all Americans — and also
as the residence of Mr. Henry Kirke Brown, the sculptor, to whom
was intrusted the commission of executing the colossal Lincoln
statue in New York city, the subscriptions to which were made by
dollar contributions.
The Lincoln statue is of bronze, eleven feet in height, standing
on a granite pedestal twenty-two feet high. It is erected on Union
Square, at the opposite angle from that occupied by the Washing
ton equestrian statue.
It is now about fifteen years since Mr. Brown removed from the
heights of Brooklyn to the picturesque banks of the Hudson. It

54 THE tourist's guide.
is needless to say that, with his talent and opportunity, he has made
his house and grounds all that refined taste and abundant means
can accomplish. We particularly desire, however, to speak of the
works of art of national importance now under his hands.
Mr. Brown is at present at work on his equestrian statue of
General Scott. For more than four years he has been laboring
almost uninterruptedly on the horse, and we think it will prove the
greatest triumph of the kind in modern art. The model is an
exact copy of the Lexington stock, made with the most minute
fidelity, and yet with great spirit, from one of the best living spe
cimens ever raised on the "Alexander farm." This bronze horse,
when erected on its pedestal, will be nine and one-half feet from
the forefeet to its shoulders, and about twelve feet to the ears.
With General Scott astride, the group will be over sixteen feet high.
The expression of the whole will be the embodiment of earnest
repose, such as would inspire horse and rider at the moment when
the fate of the battle pending is in a balance — the moment when
theatrical display is nonsense — and we think the artist's earnest
conception is thoroughly embodied, and will be appreciated by the
most careless observer as by the closest student of art. This
promised great work is for Washington city.
We are thankful that something truly admirable in the sculptor's
art is soon to be seen at the national capital. The public will be
interested in learning from an authority as good as Mr. Brown, that
we have facilities in this country for casting works of art in bronze
equal to any in Europe.
Apropos of another art than sculpture. We hear that one of the
most remarkable feats of skating upon record was performed last
winter by three " fast " young men from Newburgh. It is, at least,
without parallel in the history of skating on the Hudson. In seven

NEAR NEWBURGH.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 55
hours and five minutes they skated from Newburgh to Albany, a
distance of one hundred miles, notwithstanding the ice was very
rough in many places.
Fishkill Landing, upon the east bank of the river, is the
port, so to speak, of Fishkill, lying five miles in the interior. It
was in the neighborhood of Fishkill that the celebrated spy. Miss
Montcrieffe, pursued her avocation during the struggle for Inde
pendence. Many elegant residences of New Yorkers are here.
New Hamburgh comes next, with its black and terrible record
of recent railway disaster.
Between New Hamburgh and Poughkeepsie is the residence of
Professor Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph — the man
through whose agency men now speak to one another, though
separated by the width of the earth, with the lightning's speed, and
as if standing face to face.
Poughkeepsie has been often called the Central Park of the
Hudson river. It occupies one of the finest, if not the finest, site
of any inland city on the continent, and commands the admiration
of all who visit it.
This flourishing and beautiful city, containing a population of
twenty thousand, is situated on the eastern bank of the Hudson,
midway between New York, the commercial, and Albany, the
political centre- of the State, partly on a hill sloping to the river,
but chiefly on a high, level plateau, and is the centre of a highly
cultivated section of the State, not surpassed by any in the Union.
Its streets are numerous and spacious, are proverbial for their
cleanliness — beautifully shaded, with sidewalks neatly paved. Its
public buildings and private residences are constructed on a scale
commensurate with the wealth, liberality and public spirit of its
citizens.

56 THE tourist's GUIDE.
In the business portions of the city, buildings which a few years
since answered all the requirements of the age, are rapidly giving
way to structures of a more substantial and ornamental character,
approximating the palatial style of the metropolis ; while in the
more retired sections, and along our beautiful avenues, the city is
rapidly extending its limits, many families of affluence from abroad
preferring a quiet, suburban residence, with its retirement and
relaxation, to the noise and the gaiety of the fashionable summer
resorts. The consequence is, that real estate is rapidly appreciating
in value, and on every side are witnessed substantial evidences of
progress and prosperity.
Even a cursory view of the location of this city and its surround
ings will distinguish it as pre-eminently healthy. Its elevation,
one hundred feet above the level of the river, the purity and dry
ness of the atmosphere, the scrupulous cleanliness of its streets —
all conspire to make it one of the healthiest cities in the world.
Innumerable instances might be given of the salutary effect of this
climate on strangers affected with pulmonary and rheumatic affec
tions, to whom a residence here has been recommended by the
most eminent physicians of the country. The hotels and boarding-
houses have been largely patronized for years by those who come
here for relief. It is well known that, this city and county,
especially in the vicinity of Washington Hollow, is becoming as
celebrated as Aiken, S. C. ; and many wealthy gentlemen, who
are obliged, on account of bronchial affection, to leave New York
city, have purchased estates here.
Poughkeepsie is very proud, as she has a right to be, of her
educational and literary institutions, possessing, as she does, the
finest College for women, and the most practical Business College
for young men, in the world ; while her twenty seminaries, acade-

THE RESIDENCE AND PLEASURE GROUNDS OF PROF. H. G. EASTMAN,
of Poughkeepsie, N. Y., the President and founder of Eastman Business College.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 57
mies, military and public schools, are among the best and most
prosperous in the land. The very atmosphere is impregnated with
the aroma of culture. Thousands of men and women scattered
throughout our land, have hung the choicest rooms in the human
temple with memory pictures selected from happily spent school
hours in this beautiful city.
Prominent among these, we mention Vassar College, for the
education of young women, the first institution of the kind ever
attempted. This magnificent strvioture was founded by the late
Matthew Vassar, at an expense of nearly a million of dollars, and
constructed after the model of the Tuileries at Paris.
It is finely situated, amid agreeable scenery, in a high and health
ful situation. All its appointments are on the most liberal scale.
It has a laboratory, a museum, a library, an observatory, and all
the other usual adjuncts of a well-endowed seat of learning ; and
has, besides, a gallery of art, containing a fine collection of water-
color paintings, including four by Turner ; a gymnasium and riding-
school ; and two hundred or more acres, laid out partly as a park,
and partly cultivated as a farm.
It is told in Poughkeepsie, with some glee and pride, that a class
of young ladies, having been taught surveying, when a question
arose as to the boundaries of the Vassar College domain, were
sent out " with the chain," and actually discovered and rectified
an error, and settled the question in dispute.
Eastman's Business College is also a Poughkeepsie institution.
It is undoubtedly the best of its kind in the country, and leads all
other business schools in the one grand element of success — the
combination of theory and practice.
In how far this institution has supplied the wants of young men,
and accomplished the purposes of its President, is demonstrated by

58 THE tourist's guide.
the long list of its graduates occupying responsible positions in
every city of this Union, and the unsolicited testimonials of gen
tlemen distinguished in every walk of life.
Such has been the success of this College, that, starting ten
years ago with one student, its catalogue now exhibits the unparal
leled number of seventeen thousand, who have circulated not less
than five millions of dollars in this city.
In addition to the above named institutions, there are nearly a
score of others for the instruction of youth.
The Collingwood Opera House, an elegant Music Hall, capable
of seating twenty-two hundred people, is also a source of pride to
Poughkeepsie. A Memorial Fountain has been reared in the Soldier's Park, on
South avenue, " To THE Patriot Dead of DtfTCHESs Countt."
This is one of the finest fountains in the United States, and is
the lion of Poughkeepsie in attracting the notice and admiration
of strangers.
A magnificent building is now in process of erection — the Insane
Asylum — on the Hyde Park road, three miles from the city. It
is intended to be one of the finest and most complete structures of
its kind in the country.
There are private residences in this pleasant inland city which
command views of the Hudson of unsurpassed beauty. The
pleasure drives in this vicinity are also remarkably fine. We
doubt whether there can be found in Europe many twelve mile
drives which are more beautiful and romantic in natural scenery,
or richer in splendid villas and ornamental grounds, than the six
miles south on South avenue and north on the Hyde Park road.

THE SOLDIERS' MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN.
Opposite Eastman Place, Poughkeepsie, N. Y.

THE tourist's guide. 59
In justice to the city, we must add, that " mine host " of the
Morgan House knows " how to run a hotel," and a good one, too.
There is probably no private residence on the Hudson that
attracts more attention, or whose beautiful grounds are more
admired, than the one we illustrate here — the home of Mayor
Eastman, of Poughkeepsie. Not only so on account of their loca
tion — twenty-seven acres, situated almost in the very heart of the
city, where property is reckoned by the foot — and the expense
incurred and taste displayed in buildings and grounds, but because
the entire place has been open to citizens and strangers alike to
drive in, and walk in, since the first day Professor Eastman became
the possessor of the property.
The wall that encloses it is one of the finest and most expensive
fences that encloses any private grounds in this country. We
give a view of the marble entrance, and also one looking south.
This wall is coped with white marble, and the circular entrance
is composed of solid white marble piers. On the street side it is
built low so as to give the passer-by a delightful view of the fine
lawns and grounds. No gates are visible on the place, but broad,
open entrances, inviting you to walk in and share the enjoyment
with the proprietor.
The garden and grounds are well stocked with choice flowers,
shrubs, and trees of all kinds, and more are added yearly.
The residence is a large building, with towers, verandas. Man
sard roof, and richly ornamented. The style of architecture is
peculiar, but displays admirable taste. The interior of this house
is decidedly original, and a model of convenience.
Nothing adds more to the beauty of pleasure grounds than a
well-kept, closely-cut lawn. The lawn on this place is a model
indeed, and is the pride of the proprietor and the city, as it may

60 THE tourist's GUIDE.
well be, for we doubt if a more beautiful and perfect piece of
greensward was ever laid down than this. It is not only admired
by citizens, who may be found in large numbers any pleasant day
looking on it from the terraced walks, but by many from surround
ing towns, who drive in to admire it, and also by strangers, who
come from a distance to enquire how such perfection in lawn
making can be accomplished.
In the center of the grounds, and in full view of the main street,
is a circular drive of a quarter of a mile in circumference, twenty-
two feet wide, lined with trees on either side. A neat fence on
the inside of this circle encloses a Deer Park of four acres, which
is stocked with deer, swan, and fancy birds.
In this park is a large pond, with an island in the center, from
which several fountains are constantly playing. The scene, look
ing down on this part of the ground from the street above, with
the circular road, the dark, green lawn, the graceful deer and
birds, the fine terraced banks, the grounds of the Skating Park
in the distance, with the fine building of the Riverview Military
School in the background, is one of great beauty, and is enjoyed
daily by many.
The Eastman College Band frequently give concerts on the
lawn, where we have seen from three to five thousand people
present, and on any pleasant Sunday afternoon. South avenue is
thronged with those strolling past these grounds. Professor East
man, also, generously throws them open to societies and organiza
tions visiting the city, and the military of Albany, the firemen of
New York, Philadelphia, and other places, remember his hospitali
ties with gratitude.
The illustrations which we give of these grounds will be admired
by all lovers of the beautiful.

'^tk^^ht"^"^ U.}^"-^

VIEW ON THE GROUNDS OF EASTMAN PLACE, POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y
Showing the Terrace Block of Elegant Modern Residences, now being erected by Prof. Eastman.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 61
We have presented here a picture which has much sunlight upon
it. Let us add to it one shadow — relating a life history, in which
"truth seems stranger than fiction."
The death of "Lochy Ostrom," some two years ago, at the age
of seventy-seven, unveiled a sad story.
For years she had been, to all outward appearance, a cold-
hearted, calculating, avaricious woman; and investigations after
her death, disclosed property hid away in an old trunk under her
bed, to the value of over twenty-one thousand five hundred dollars,
besides papers showing that she owned real estate to the value of
twelve thousand dollars. But other things, more romantic than
bonds, or gold and silver, were also found. A bundle of love-
letters, seventeen in all, was tied neatly with a piece of white
satin ribbon, but the ribbon was stained with time, and the paper
on which the letters were written was also stained. In one of the
bedrooms, although Lochy was known not to have bought two
dresses in ten years, were found twenty dresses, four or five of
which were of elegant and costly silk, apparently at least fifty
years old. Visible, also, were pots of preserves, canned fruits,
etc. Far back on the shelf was found a shriveled, dried-up fruit
cake. It looked as if it had been there threescore years. It was
highly ornamented, and on the top, in the center, was a sugar
Cupid. It was very carefully stowed away. The letters revealed
her secret history. In her young days " Lochy " had a lover who
was devotedly attached to her, and she loved him in return. The
match was broken off by her parents, and the disappointed suitor
moved away from the place to Cincinnati. Twice he journeyed
back to again offer her his heart and hand ; but she fancied her
duty to her parents forbade her acceptance. The lover seems to
have appreciated her filial love, yet to have felt that if her love for

62 THE tourist's GUIDE.
him had been entire, she would have accepted his proposal, in
which the mother whom she cared for, was not forgotten. He
married another woman, who died after a few years. He kept up
his correspondence with " Lochy" at long intervals; but she had
become hard and cold. Thirty-five or forty years after the com
mencement of their acquaintance he again made an offer of marriage ;
but she was gray and wrinkled, with all affection gone, save for her
money. She refused the offer, and neither saw nor heard again
from him who had been her lover. Such is real life.
Several quiet places above Poughkeepsie nestle amid the hills on
either bank of the Hudson.
Ice and apples are largely exported from this vicinity. The
famous apple farm of R. L. Pell, Esq., is upon the west side of
the river, with its twenty-five thousand apple-trees. Opposite, and
about one mile above Hyde Park landing, is " Placentia," the
home of the late honored writer, James K. Paulding, the friend
of Washington Irving.
Upon the west bank of the river is the summer residence of John
Astor, Esq. Esopus Island lies in the river, where the steamer
Berkshire was burned in 1864.
Rhinebeok has many interesting residences and old traditions.
Its bears gold in its bosom, and we predict that a " gold fever"
will some day make the old town famous.
Wildercliff is here, a country seat built by the late Freeborn
Garretson, an eminent preacher whose name is identified with the
annals of the Methodist Episcopal Church. The place may be
recognized by its broad lawn, which lies in front of the house.
Bllerslie, the home of the Hon. William Kelly, is a large estate
of over six hundred acres. Guests may walk for several miles
amid his ornamented grounds.

%^zi >l:"I^v^'^^^"Ts^'

EASTMAN PLACE, POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y.
The Walk on South Avenue

THE tourist's GUIDE. 63
A little above Rhinebeok is Rokeby, owned, and occupied in
summer, by William B. Astor. It is distinguished to the eye of
the Tourist by its tower and pointed roof.
Above Rokeby is Montgomery Place. This is a domain of sur
passing beauty. The house was built by the widowed Bride of
General Montgomery, who met his untimely fate at Quebec in
1775. After fifty years of widowhood, Mrs. Montgomery was suc
ceeded, in her ownership of the place, by her brother, Mr. Edward
Livingston, whose family still occupy it.
Upon the eastern bank of the river, one mile below Catskill
Landing and five miles from the city of Hudson, is Clermont, which
in the last century was the great show place upon the Hudson.
Here stood the original Livingston Manor. Here Chancellor
Livingston resided, and built also an elegant home for his mother.
He paid a heavy penalty for patriotism when both the houses were
burned during the Revolution ; but new houses have since been
erected, and Claremont is still a splendid country seat.
The Hudson may well be called the " steamboat river," and it
should not be forgotten that the success of Robert Fulton was
largely due to the hearty co-operation and the gold of the Chan
cellor. Indeed, Mr. Livingston projected the plan of a steam
vessel before Fulton's genius had incepted the stirring idea which
resulted in that steamboat named Claremont, christened by the
people " Fulton's Folly," in which the ascent of the Hudson was
fairly accomplished in September, 1809, just two hundred years
later than Hendrick Hudson's voyage of discovery.
Mr. Livingston's friendship availed to secure for Fulton, fame
in his lifetime, and a place of rest in the Livingston vault of
Trinity churchyard, when for Fulton the honors of earth were as
" low as graves brought down."

64 THE tourist's guide.
The estate of Clermont extends some twelve miles along the
Hudson. The finest specimens of the Yellow Locust to be found
in this country adorn this place — one of them measuring sixteen
feet in circumference.
A little above Poughkeepsie the river bends, and the finest point
is gained. It is a foreground of cultivated and foliaged hills of
great variety of outline, rising as they recede, and ranging and
towering at last along the horizon, in the Catskill mountains.
These are the " ever-changing, legendary Kaatsbergs." When
the red men ruled, they were called Onti Ora, or the Mountains
of the Sky. When the white man first reared his rude home in
the wilderness, the panther's scream rang so often and so drearily
in his ear, that, in scornful impatience and old-fashioned Dutch, he
named them Kaats-bergs, or Cat Mountains.
The Catskills have always been dear to the heart of the Geolo
gist, for here are the exposed strata of all the principal rocks known
as the New York system. From the vicinity of these mountains,
paving stones are transported to New York city.
Above Catskill village, an immense ice-house has been recently
built. There is never a stir in this place. Quiet contentment seems to
be the rule of life.
A new hotel, the Irving House, has been recently erected, and
is just open for the accommodation of the public. Those who seek
the comforts of fine, airy rooms, newly and nicely furnished — a
good table and good attendance — will not be disappointed here.
Many pleasant residences overlook the long rambling village
street, one of them was for many years the home, and contains the
studio of Thomas Cole, the painter whose name and fame will be

THE tourist's GUIDE. 65
forever identified with " The Voyage of Life." He was one of
those to whom the free mountain air gives inspiration. At twenty-
four years of age it was said of him, that his " fame spread like
fire." Among the works of his pencil his " Lake with Dead Trees,"
and "Falls of the Cauterskill," have greatly contributed to ensure
his reputation.
His devoted widow still resides here. She regards his deserted
studio as a sacred place, and no stranger's foot is permitted to cross
its threshold. It is a ride of eight miles from the village to the
mountains. The road is very firmly built, and is fortunate in its
material of a slaty rock, and in the luxuriance of foliage, for the
tangled tree-roots hold the soil together. The path climbs at first
in easy zigzags, and presently pushes straight on through the woods.
Finally that nook in the mountain is reached, where nestles the
Rip Van Winkle cottage. It stands within the amphitheatre,
inclosed by lofty heights, reputed to be the place where the ghostly
ninepin players of the mountains once held their revels, and where
Rip laid down for his protracted snooze.
A magnificent panorama of nature lies before the eye as one
presses onward, but the genuine Alpine traveler says "the views
are graceful and generous, but not sublime. Your true mountaineer
shrugs his shoulders at the shoulder of mountains which soar
thousands of feet above him and are still shaggy with forest. For
him there is no mountain sublimity save in the presence of lonely
snow-peaks." Thus we read of the Catskills, but when we behold for ourselves,
the purple and sunset glories fade, and see the solemn shadows
which the Kaatsbergs cast at nightfall, and especially when we
5

66 THE tourist's GUIDE.
shiver upon a feather bed at night in July, we are content to accept
the Catskills as mountains.
The Kaaterskill or High Falls, are two miles west of the Moun
tain House, which is perched like an eagle's nest upon the precipice.
Although the Mountain House is far below the highest summits of
the range, yet portions of four States of the Union and an area of
more than ten thousand miles are presented to the eye of one who
sits at ease upon its breezy piazza. Still more superb views are to
be had from the peaks of South Mountain and North Mountain.
When the Cauterskill Falls are seen to the best advantage, words
which command no colors must fail to portray the rare and exquisite
effect produced by the flashing water, the rich, serious green of the
foliage, and the movements of the fleecy clouds, which tremble in
the sky above.
Wherefore do we linger at the Falls ? Many who have been
there can sketch them more effectually than we. Many who have
not, will weary of any description we can give.'
A friend, who visited the Catskill Mountains not long ago,
related to us the following characteristic incident, which came
under his personal observation :
While the stage-coach was slowly wending its way up toward the
Mountain House, one of the inside passengers — a young man whose
general appearance indicated that he should have known the usages
of good society — lighted a cigar, and began to smoke.
" You are not going to smoke here, with ladies inside ?" de
manded a gentleman.
"Well, yes," responded the youth, languidly; "I generally
smoke whenever I get a chance." And he continued puffing.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 67
Presently the gentleman who had spoken, called for the driver
to stop. "Now, young man," said he, "I'll give you just one
minute to get out !"
The youthful smoker looked his opponent in the eye, saw he had
found his match, and silently got out and climbed to an outside
seat. Next morning, the gentleman met the young man on the piazza
of the hotel, and, after pleasantly saluting him, remarked r " I see,
from the book, that you are from Philadelphia."
" Yes, sir," responded the youth, evidently desirous the inter
view of the previous evening should not be recalled.
"And do you expect to go to New York on your way back ? "
" Yes, sir," again was the reply.
"Well, young man," continued the gentleman, "from what I
have seen of you, I think you will get into trouble in New York,
and you may like to call upon me ; so I will give you my card."
Whereupon he handed him a bit of pasteboard, on which was
the name of John A. Kennedy, Superintendent of the Metropoli
tan Board of Police !
Possibly he profited by the lesson.
Hudson, one hundred and fifteen miles from New York, is a
pleasant, rural city. It is built upon the slope of Prospect Hill,
which rises to a height of two hundred feet. Hudson once threat
ened to out-rival Albany. It is. an old place, and noted for its
highly cultivated and refined society.
The Worth House is decidedly the best hotel in the place. It
is a fine, commodious house, where summer travelers can pass a
little time very pleasantly.

68 THE tourist's guide.
Columbia Springs, five miles from Hudson, affords a delightful
drive, and is a summer resort of some note, for invalids.
A trip to Claverack Falls makes another excursion of interest —
the falls have a clear leap of over ninety feet.
New Lebanon Springs may be easily reached from Hudson.
The route thither from Hudson is by the Hudson and Boston road
to Chatham, and there change cars. The water at New Lebanon
Springs lacks the character which pertains to the varied waters of
Saratoga. It may be in many respects equally sanitary, but it is
tasteless and inodorous.
The Shaker Village has given to Lebanon its fame. It is a
unique pleasure, and quite a treat, to visit the Herbery, where the
Shaker herbs are prepared ; but a trip to Lebanon will hardly induce
the visitant to adopt the " yea " and " nay " — the grotesque attire
and whirling religious Services of the Shaker band.
Stuyvesant, formerly known as Kinderhook Landing, is ten
miles north of Hudson. Kinderhook, five miles east of the Land
ing, was the birthplace of our eighth president, Martin Van Buren.
His estate of " Lindenwald," where he passed his closing years of
life, is situated two miles south of the village.
The records of the old towns upon the Hudson's banks will
never be fully written. Irving pencilled notes which commingled
fact, fiction, and pure humor. The real and passionate stories of
life in these old peculiar places have never been put in print. News
paper reporters give publicity to bare facts once in a while — the
rise, progress and ending of village comedies and tragedies, is
seldom arrived at. Perhaps it is as well. Yet ere leaving this
region of country, so rich in tradition and history, we cannot refrain
from saying that there is a wide field for the novelist, which is as

\'

w fl

THE HUDSON, SIX MILES BELOW ALBANY.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 69
yet untrodden, in the annals of the North river towns. To justify
our assertion we will relate one only, of the numerous stories which
have been told in our hearing, in hushed tones, by winter evening
fires. In Kinderhook, in the last century, a beautiful girl married
in defiance of her parents' wishes. Her run-away match created
quite a stir in those primitive days. Her lover was a wealthy
farmer, haughty and handsome, and a man of overbearing temper.
No blessing followed their union. Imperious commands on his
part ; quick retorts and bitter words on hers, rendered their lives
miserable. Again and again the wife resolved to return that " soft
answer which turneth away wrath," or to keep silence. As often
as she made this vow it was broken. At last, when she was the
mother of ten children, some of whom were grown up men, the
unhappy woman, not in passion but in despair, with a sharp knife
cut off the tip of that unruly member, her tongue. The wound
healed in time, but speech was rendered difficult and incoherent.
She passed the remainder of her days in almost utter silence.
Release came to her at last. Her divorce from a husband
whom she had long ceased to love was about to be rendered in that
silent chamber where death held his grim assize. A smile lit up
the countenance of the dying woman. It was such a smile as
belongs "to them that triumph." Her daughter drew near and
asked — " what cheers you, mother ?"
With difficulty came the answer — " The tongue can no man
tame ! I tamed it. 1 meant ivo wrong, but to make home happier.
Jjord for give me, if I sinned I" These were her last utterances.
There is a stern, heroic pathos in such a life. Let us judge her
not, that we be not judged !

j^iri®:
BY S. S. COLT.
A city breaks upon my sights
Six letters doth its name compose —
Its domes gleam bright in the morning light,
And at its feet a river flows !
Within a church I saw one stand.
Wearing a priestly robe he came ;
Mention his dress, at my command.
You have three letters of my name !
Before him kneel a groom and bride ;
lie asks ; ' ' WUt love till life is past,
Let wealth or pinching want betide ?"
The answer is, my first and last I
My third, fourth, fifth, a word combine
Which is by a father spoken ;
And the bridegroom most his bride resign,
And the maiden's heart is broken !
ANSWER.
Dost ask for the city I mean,
Where lovers meet crosses and woe ?
Hard matter to And it, I ween ;
Harder to find where it is not so I
In linen raiment, fair and white,
The priest performs official rites,
By name an Alb appears in sight,
As he, two hearts in one unites.
" Wilt have this maiden for thy wife,
To cheer and guard when danger's nigh,
And fondly cherish all thy life ?"
Clearly the answer rings out, ' 'AY I "
The angry father comes with speed,
And sternly stays the nuptial rite ;
To moans and tears he gives no heed,
But nuUs the Ban by parent's right I
My city she sits on a hill.
Fairer and richer than many;
Ancient yet beautiful still,
Our grave and stately ALBANY I
ALU ANT, N. Y., June 15, 1871.

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V.

IHE oldest city in the United States, excepting St.
Augustine, is Albany. As such, it claims the rever
ence, not only of every true-hearted Dutch-man, but
of every member of the universal Yankee nation,
which has no geographical limit this side of Saturn's
rings. Until within a few years, Albany was, in every
sense of the word, an old-fashioned town. The Present
is still linked with the Past more inseparably here than in any
other city in the State. To write of Albany, and disregard that
conservative element which once admitted outsiders to a position
in " good society," under this protest —
" Take, fake the Yankees in,
And end this fuss.
Or be assured, my Lords,
Tlia/ll take in us!"
would be to present but a dry narrative of dates and directory of
Public Buildings.
A live description of Albany will not represent it as wholly " a
live town," according to the general American acceptation of that
phrase in this present year of 1871.

72 THE tourist's GUIDE.
And yet, with much conservatism, there is also stability and
rectitude and the best representatives of the old Dutch aristocracy
of long ago, are the most genial and high-toned — in all senses of
the word, are among the best Men of To-Day.
A friendship formed in Albany, is a friendship for life.
A business is more slowly established here than in many places
which boast of " more enterprise," but it is for this very reason
more surely established. A house reared here is less liable than
elsewhere to be swept away by the tides of progress, unless indeed it
is built upon North Pearl, where the rush of business is entirely
changing the character of this old and stately street. The first
glimpse of Albany reminds the European traveler of some of the
cities of the old world. Its spires and domes indeed
' ' Gleam bright
In morning's light."
The Delavan House and the Capitol seem to be the two head-
centers of the city. The former is under the control of Mr. Charles
Leland and is very well managed. The latter, it is sometimes
hinted, is under the control of the highest bidder, and is not always
well managed for the public good.
Leaving the Delavan House for a stroll over the city we will
follow Broadway to State street.
Broadway was first known as Handelaer, and subsequently as
Market street. State street was originally Yonkers. At the inter
section of Broadway and State street stood the old Dutch Church
which was torn down in 1806.
Passing up State street we see the Capitol beautifully located on
Eagle street, facing State, one hundred and thirty feet above the
Hudson. In front is a park of three acres, inclosed by an iron

THE FAMOUS OLD DUTCH CHURCH OF ALBANY.
Erected 1716. Demolished 1806.

THE tourist's GUIDE, 73
fence and planted with ornamental shade trees. The present build
ing was begun in 1803 and finished in 1807, at a cost exceeding
one hundred and twenty thousand dollars. It is built of stone,
faced with Nyack red freestone, ninety feet broad, fifty feet high,
and was originally one hundred and fifteen feet long. In 1854,
fifteen feet were added to the west end. The eastern front has an
Ionic portico, with four columns of Berkshire marble, each three
feet eight inches in diameter, and thirty-three feet high. The
entrance hall is forty by fifty feet, and sixteen feet high, the ceiling
of which is supported by a double row of reeded columns, and the
fioor is vaulted and laid with squares of Italian marble. Upon the
north side of the hall are the office of the Adjutant-General and
the Assembly Library, and on the south side the Executive Cham
bers. The inner Executive Chamber has a full sized portrait of
General LaFayette, painted when h^ was in the city in 1825. The
remainder of the first story is devoted to the Assembly Chamber.
Upon the east side is a gallery, supported by iron pillars, for
spectators. The ceiling is richly ornamented in stucco. Over the
Speaker's seat is a full length portrait of Washington. In the
second story, over the entrance hall, is the Senate Chamber, which
contains the portraits of Governor Clinton and Columbus. Over the
Assembly lobbies is the room of the Court of Appeals. The Court
room contains portraits of Chancellors Lansing, Sandford, Jones
and Walworth, Chief Justice Spencer, Abraham Van Vechten and
Daniel Cady.
The roof of the State House is pyramidal, supporting a dome. .
Upon the dome stands a wooden statue of Themis, eleven feet
high, holding in her right hand a sword and in her left a balance.
The Senate and Assembly begin their sessions on the first Tuesday
of Januaryof each year, remaining in session one hundred days.

74 THE tourist's guide.
Visitors are admitted to Senate and Assembly Chambers only
during sessions of the Legislature.
But this is not the Capitol, which is to be.
The new State House has been designed in the Renaissance
style, similar to that of the Louvre in Paris, and many of the finest
modern public buildings in Europe.
The location is a very commanding one, the grounds being about
one hundred and seventy feet above the level of the Hudson. The
main tower of this building will reach a height of three hundred
feet above the street. From its cupola the valley of the Hudson,
for more than thirty miles north and south, and of the Mohawk for
nearly the same distance west, will be seen, as well as the interven
ing slopes and plains, for a circuit of more than twenty miles radius.
The open public grounds around the Capitol will have an area of
ten acres, and when the building is completed, the old Capitol
Library, Governor's mansion, and Congress Hall will all be
removed, leaving a park on the east front of four hundred and fifty
feet long and three hundred and twenty feet wide, the ornamenta
tion of which will be made to conform to that of the structure.
That noble avenue. State street, will continue this open space
for nearly half a mile eastward to the river ; on the north will be
Washington avenue, one hundred feet wide ; on the south the con
tinuation of State street ; and on the west Swan street. All of the
streets which formerly crossed this large area are now closed by
law. Thus, standing upon almost the highest ground in the city,
with the land falling off in all directions, except to the west, sur
rounded by these wide, open parks and broad avenues, with its high
walls and still higher pavilions, turrets, and towers, this building
will appear to great advantage.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 75
*' The exterior walls are two hundred and eighty feet long north
and south, and three hundred and eighty feet east and west. There
are four entrances ; three of which will be carriage entrances.
The main entrance will be at the east front, and will be
approached by a very broad flight of steps in front up to the level
of a broad terrace, which will extend across the whole east front.
From this terrace will extend another broad flight of steps to the
level of the first floor, and will open to a large vestibule, from
which will extend broad corridors to all parts of the building. On
the left of this entrance will be placed the suite of rooms designed
for the use of the Governor, of his secretaries, and of the Military
Department ; and on the right will be rooms for two or more of the
State officers, with whom the Governor has the most immediate
official relations.
On the second, or principal floor, will be placed the Senate and
Assembly chambers, and the State Library, all of which (in eleva
tion) will occupy two stories, making forty-five feet of height.
Rooms for the Committees, and other purposes, will also be placed
upon this floor.
The Senate Chamber will be seventy-five by fifty-five feet on the
floor, with a gallery on three sides, of twenty feet more width.
The Assembly Chamber will be ninety-two by seventy-five feet on
the fioor, surrounded by a similar gallery, which in both chambers
largely increases the areas of the upper portion. The Library will
occupy the whole of the east front of these two stories, and will be
two hundred and eighty-three feet long and fifty-four feet wide.
This will be the most attractive room in the building, and perhaps
in the world. Its large area and lofty proportions, its views toward
the north, east and south, overlooking the city, and bringing in the
valley of the Hudson and its western slopes for miles in each direc-

76 THE tourist's guide.
tion, will make it a favorite place of resort at all seasons of the
year, even with those who have no taste for the mental pleasures
afforded by its five hundred thousand volumes.
The great tower is sixty-six feet square, and the upper portion
will be a quadrangular dome of nearly one hundred feet high, sur
mounted by an observatory, access to which will be had by a spiral
staircase. In the middle of the building will be an open court of one hun
dred and thirty by ninety feet, to give light and air to the inside
rooms. This court will be a grand and attractive feature, being
treated in the same elaborate manner as the exterior fronts, and
will no doubt ultimately have its fountains and be surrounded with
statuary. The plans of the foundations have been prepared with great care.
The entire structure will weigh one hundred and fifty thousand
tons ; but the great inequalities in the heights of the various walls,
and the distribution of the enormously heavy fire-proof floors, and
roofs sometimes laden with deep snows, bring very unequal weights
upon the parts of the foundation adjacent to each other, and with
out this great care they would settle unequally and crack the walls,
as is so frequently seen in modern private, and even in many of our
public buildings.
The stone foundation of the walls commences on concrete, and is
made of large blocks of close-cut limestone of from two to six tons
weight, laid in regular courses, the first one of nearly the width of
the concrete, and each successive one narrowed by offsets, until the
wall is contracted to the width necessary to support the structure,
arranged so that they will afford an equal bearing on each side of
the line of the center of gravity of the walls and the weights which
they are to sustain.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 77
The work has been carried on with very rapid progress. Several
hundred masons, stone-cutters, and laborers have been employed at
the building, and several thousand men at the various quarries and
in transportation.
All of the stone and the other materials which have come in by
railway or water have been unloaded by steam-derricks, and hauled
up the hill on the railway, on ears specially built for the purpose.
The building is estimated to cost four million of dollars, exclu
sive of the cost of the land and any additional decoration or orna
mentation which may be hereafter ordered by the Legislature. It
will require three more seasons to fully complete it.
The Corner Stone of the new Capitol was laid on Saturday,
.June 24, 1871 — a day long to be remembered for its imposing
ceremonies and its pitiless rain. Arrangements had been made to
present an unequaled and brilliant display on this occasion. Late
on the preceding Friday evening, the spirits of those having charge
of the ceremonies were depressed by a bulletin from Professor
Hough, of Dudley Observatory, predicting a severe storm on
Saturday. But the stars were shining brightly — not a cloud
could be seen. The Professor's opinions had always been con
sidered reliable and correct; but, for this once, the anxious man
agers of the grand entertainment doubted the Professor's judg
ment. How could it possibly rain Saturday, when at midnight
Friday it was as clear and pleasant as could be desired ? It was,
therefore, decided that the Professor was wrong. That he was not
in error, can be attested now by thousands who were drenched
upon the grand occasion.
During Friday night, and the early hours Saturday morning,
thousands of strangers arrived in Albany from every section, and

78 THE tourist's guide.
there were more Masons in the city than had ever been congre
gated together in this State. Had the weather been pleasant,
there would have been not less than six thousand members of the
ancient fraternity in line, and the procession would have been at
least five miles long. As it was, in the drenching, soaking storm,
the procession was certainly extraordinary. The military escort was
in the highest degree creditable to officers and men, who, at the
close of the march, were as thoroughly wet as if they had been in
the river. General Woodhall and his guests, Major-General Carr
and staff, rode at the head of the column, with an appearance of
entire unconcern as to the weather. In fact, the General com
manding inarched the column over the entire route laid out by
him, and added a little to it, to satisfy_ the people that he and his
guests and his men didn't care for the rain. As they were soaked
before they had been in the line ten minutes, this did not matter
much. The Burgesses and Jackson Corps were out in full strength.
The Knights Templar were excused from parade, and thus the
procession was deprived of what would have been, under the cir
cumstances, its most attractive feature. Probably not one-tenth
of the Masons in the city appeared in line, and yet their numbers
astonished our citizens and the many strangers who thronged the
principal streets. When the procession passed up State street, the
scene presented was exceedingly novel. The entire street seemed to
be covered with umbrellas, and as those carrying them were pretty
well covered up, scarcely a head could be seen.
At the Capitol, the ceremony of formally laying the Corner Stone
was conducted according to the following Order of Proceedings :

THE tourist's GUIDE. 79
I.
Music by Sullivan's Band.
II.
Introductory Address by Hamilton Harris, Chairman of the Board
of New Capitol Commissioners.
III.
Prayer by the Rev. Dr. Ebenezer Halley.
IV.
Reading by William A. Rice, Secretary of the Board, a list of
historical documents and memorials to be placed
in the Corner Stone.
V.
Address by His Excellency John T. Hoffman, Governor of the
State. VI.
Depositing of the Box containing the articles for preservation in
the Corner Stone, by the Governor.
VII.
Music by the Band.
VIII.
The Ceremonies of laying the Corner Stone by the Grand Lodge
of Freemasons of New York, M. W. John H.
Anthon, Grand Master.
IX.
Benediction.
The historical documents, newspapers, coins and et cetera, usually
deposited upon similar occasions, were inclosed in a metallic Box,
and deposited in the Corner Stone. Governor Hoffman's speech.

80 THE tourist's GUIDE.
which followed this ceremony, was brilliant and interesting. It
was a speech worthy of the occasion and the Governor of the
Empire State.
At the close of the Governor's address, the Corner Stone of the
new Capital was " found square, level and plumb, true and trusty,
and was laid according to the old customs by the Grand Master of
Masons."
ODE
on the laying of the corner stone, sung JUNE 24, 1871.
Iwae—-' Sparkling and Bright."
From the noble rest of onr Mountain crests,
Fi'om the forests grand and hoary,
From the rivers, bright in their liquid light.
We come in the summer's glory,
With hearts so fraught with tlie swelling thought
Of the crowns our Age is wearing,
We stand in hope on the century's slope,
A loftier labor daring. Choeus.
The Future hears thro' listening years.
In chorus loud and lusLy—
Onr royal dome, our patriot home.
Well formed, and true and trusty.
Our storied Past was proudly cast
To this high and holy keeping.
And gladly lay on its stone to-day
The faii'est sheaves we're reaping.
So the record true that the Old State knew.
Her lives of brave endeavor,
Shall stand secure while its walls endure.
The Corner Stone forever!
Chorus.— The Future hears, etc.
May the marble white prove a symbol bright
Of whiter deeds unfolding,
While stronger far than her pillars are.
The nation's life is moulding.
So its towers shall glow in their sculptured snow.
Our happy hills adorning,
Till the workmen wait by the Temple's Gate,
Beyond the Golden Morning.
CiiOEiis.— The Future hears, etc.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 81
Among the minor details of the history of the day — next to the
demand for umbrellas — we must mention the interest felt in a
veteran who witnessed the laying of the corner stone of the old ,
Capitol. Says the Albany Evening Journal of June twenty-fourth : The
reportorial question — Did you ever know a New York Capitol
corner stone to be laid on such an unpleasant day as this ? might
seem one to which none could be found to respond pro or con.
But "nothing is impossible to him that wills," according to
Emerson, and " our own reporter" willed that he should have an
interview with a party who could contrast this day of June, 1871,
with that day of April, 1806, when the corner stone of the old
Capitol was laid. Going into the Marshal's room at Martin's
Hall about nine o'clock, we were introduced to an aged man with
bright blue eye, Mr. James Gilbert, at your service, who would be
happy to speak with you about the old days, on one of which he
saw the corner stone of the old Capitol laid. Mr. Gilbert was born
in October, 1782, and was a young fellow of twenty-four on the
interesting occasion referred to. As he spoke to us this morning
of the event, and of the gathering, " all of which he saw and a part
. of which he was," we felt like addressing him in the words of
Webster : " Venerable man, you have come down to us from a
former generation." The old gentleman's remembrance of the day
was slight, but he recalls the immense gathering that surrounded
Philip Van Rensselaer, who had the honor of laying the stone.
He remembers that the ceremonies took place in the afternoon, and
to the best of his knowledge and belief, the sun was shining brightly
all day.
He also recollected that Mr. Barbour's Register in those days —
that energetic Albany paper — had not a word to say in relation to

82 THE tourist's guide.
the corner stone doings of 1806. He also had reminiscences of the
laying of the corner stone of St. Peter's church, and other matters
of ancient history.
Notwithstanding his great age and a lameness which results from
the loss of a part of one of his feet by a railway accident some years
ago, Mr. Gilbert still enjoys good health and is quite active and
alert. Marshal Waterman very properly made provision for the
old man, who was awarded an honorable place in the procession in
an elegant carriage.
To return from chat which concerns our future Capitol, we will
leave the State House to visit State Hall which is located on
Eagle street, fronting Academy Park, and is considered one of the
architectural ornaments of the city. It is built of white cut stone,
with a colonnade in front, supported by six ionic columns, and is
surmounted by a dome. It was completed in 1842, at a cost of
three hundred and fifty thousand dollars. It contains the offices
of the Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Auditor of Canal
Department, State Engineer, Clerk of Court of Appeals, Superin
tendent of Public Instruction, and Attorney-General and State
Sealer of Weights and Measures. Open to visitors during business
hours. The City Hall, situated on Eagle street fronting Washington
avenue, is a fine Grecian structure of white Sing Sing marble, built
at a cost of about ninety thousand dollars. In front it has a
recessed porch supported by six ionic columns. In the center of
the hall in the second story is a statue of Hamilton, and in the
common council room are portraits of the ex-Governors of the
State. It is open to visitors during business hours. The Jail is
located in rear of the City Hall, on Maiden lane.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 83
The State Library is a place of much interest. It partakes to
a considerable extent of the character of a museum. There are
here, collections of coins, many of them presented to the State by
Napoleon III ; medals and engravings ; the September Emancipa
tion Proclamation of the lamented Lincoln, in his own handwriting ;
the original papers which Major Andre was carrying in his boot
from Arnold to General Clinton ; and the manuscripts of Sir Wm.
Johnson and Governor Clinton, in about twenty folio volumes each.
The General Library in the upper story, with its cosy sofas and
courteous attendants, and its portraits of old Governors of the State,
is the most interesting room to visitors. It now contains about
sixty thousand volumes. The Library building adjoins the Capitol
and is a fire-proof structure, lighted with one hundred and eighty
gas burners, and capable of accommodating one hundred thousand
volumes. The Law Library of twenty thousand volumes, upon
the lower floor, must be a paradise for lawyers — or the reverse — for
it includes the laws and documents of every State in the Union.
The Library is free to the public, and ladies as well as gentlemen
avail themselves of its privileges.
The Hall of Military Records surpasses in interest the State
Library as much as a living Tableau -Vivant transcends a copper
plate engraving.
The building is of unpretending style, located at 219 State
street. The Revolution ; the war of 1812 ; the Mexican war ; and
the late Rebellion, have alike contributed to fill this hall, as well
as to fill the pages of history. No other city in the Union can
show a collection of equal value.
The most deeply interesting objects, perhaps, are the regimental
flags which have been carried by our brave volunteers upon so many
bloody battle fields during the late rebellion. There are also

84 THE tourist's guide.
deposited many emblems of various kinds captured from the rebels
by New York regiments. Inscribed on the banners are the
names of the battles in which the regiments were engaged. Upon
some of them we have counted seventy different inscriptions. The
mere mention of the variety of objects of interest to be seen here
would fill a volume. The little two-storied building is crowded
with its riches.
The Bureau is opened daily — excepting Sundays — free to all
— from 9 A. M. till 5 p. M.
The names of nearly thirty thousand visitors were registered
here last year.
The State Arsenal is not far distant, upon Eagle street.
The State Museum of Natural History occupies a building upon
State street, erected upon the site of the " Old State Hall." The
collections of the Geological Survey of the State were deposited in
the " Old State Hall," at the close of the field-work, in 1841-2,
and their arrangement completed in 1843. The new building was
erected in 1856, and occupied in 1857. The collections of Natural
History occupy the main building, with the exception of the offices
of the State Agricultural Society and of the Museum. The Agri
cultural Museum occupies the south wing of the building.
The collections are presented to the visitor in the following
order : In the entrance hall there are arranged on each side a
series of the building stones of New York and adjacent States,
principally in blocks of a cubic foot, and variously dressed on the
different faces, having one side presenting the natural frsfctured
surface. These blocks consist of granites, sandstones or freestones,
marbles, limestones, etc., with some polished slabs of marble.
The first floor of the Museum is devoted to the Geological and
Palseontological collections. The Geological collection contains

THE tourist's GUIDE. 85
representative specimens of every rock formation ; each group or
division occupying a division of the table cases which extend in
regular order, from the oldest formation at the beginning of the
series, around the room and terminating with cases containing
specimens of the superficial formations, as clay, sand, gravel, bould
ers, marl, tufa, peat, etc. This arrangement affords a simple and
easy guide to the study of the successive formations. There are
likewise a corresponding series of wall cases with more numerous
or larger specimens of the same formations as those of the table
cases. The Palseontological collection is arranged in table cases upon
the same floor. Beginning near the entrance of the room, a printed
card of directions attached to the first case indicates that the collec
tion is arranged in strict geological or chronological order, com
mencing with the oldest fossiliferous rock, and reading thence to the
right the successive formations are arranged in their order. Under
each of the rock formations or groups, the fossils are arranged in
their natural or zoological classification, preceded by the fossil
plants where these occur in the same formation.
This arrangement affords a simple and satisfactory means of
studying the fossils of each and every one of the Geological forma
tions from the oldest fossiliferous rock to the base of the carbonif
erous system.
Upon the second floor the minerals of the State are systematic
ally arranged in wall cases, and several cases are devoted to mis
cellaneous American and European minerals.
The floor of this story is mainly divided into three areas, in which
are arranged representatives of the postpliocene vertebrata. Skele
tons of the better known and more conspicuous forms of these
arranged under the heads of " North American," " European and

86 THE tourist's GUIDE.
Asiatic" and " South American." By this means the geogra
phical relations of these extinct vertebrates are at once presented
to the eye.
Upon the same floor are arranged a representative collection of
the fossils of all the English formations, and of the American
Cretaceous and Tertiary formations.
The wall cases on the south side of the room contain casts of
remarkable fossil forms, mainly of European origin. These casts,
with others in table cases, and those of the European and Asiatic,
and South American areas were presented to the Museum by
Charles Wadsworth, Esq.
The third floor of the building is devoted to the recent Zoological
collections. The fauna of New York, in its birds and mammals,
occupies Ihe west end of the room ; the DeRham collection is con
tained in a large central case towards the east end, while the New
York fishes and reptiles occupy wall cases on the north and south
sides of the eastern area.
The central area is occupied by table cases containing the Gould
collection of shells, and the eastern area by table cases containing
the Mazatlan collection of shells presented by Dr. P. P. Carpenter.
The collection of Antiquarian and Ethnological specimens occu
pies a part of the eastern end of the third fioor.
Extensive additions and a partial re-arrangement of some por
tions of the collection will be made during the present summer
and autumn.
The Free Museum and Stereoscopic Studio of Natural History,
which was thrown open to the public, at 9 and 11 Elm street, in
March of the present year, merits a highly complimentary mention
here, and a visit from every one who sets foot in Albany. This

THE tourist's GUIDE. 87
enterprise was projected by Mr. Hurst, with the co-operation of
his Son. For many years, Mr. Hurst has by his skill won golden
opinions from the best judges, in Taxidermy. His own private
collection — the result of thirty years' labor — is now open to the
public, and fine Stereoscopic Views of the subjects are offered
for sale.
The New City Building is a fine edifice, erected by the city in
the fall and winter of 1868-9, at a cost of two hundred thousand
dollars, on South Pearl street, corner of Howard.
It is a beautiful structure of the Lombardic style of architect
ure, ornamented with a Mansard roof, and is built of brick, faced
with limestone from Lake Champlain.
Adjacent to this is Martin's Hall — a new building of which
Albanians are justly proud. The Ball which honored its open
ing to the public was given by the Burgesses Corps of this city, on
Washington's Birth-night, 1871, and was one of the blithest
gatherings of " fair women and brave men" ever seen in Albany.
The Trimble Opera House, also on South Pearl street, is a
building which has a " history all its own." It stands upon the
site of the original " old theatre" of Albany, which was replaced
by Trimble Opera House, so named after the late John M. Trim
ble, Esq., of New York, the famous Architect and Builder.
Art, in our city, reared her Temple fair ;
But the Fire-Fiend— Evil Genii of air-
Assaulted it with red, embracing wing.
And smote it to the earth — a ruined thing !
People shrugged their shoulders and said that it would not be
rebuilt — that it would never pay — plenty of gloomy prophesies
were uttered over its ruins. For a long time, no effort was made
to rebuild, till a man of enterprise, Mr. Lucien Barnes, of Albany,
came forward, formed a stock company, and by tact, an indomita-

88 THE tourist's guide.
ble will, and genuine hard work, erected and completed Trimble
Opera House in fifty-seven working days, opening on the last day
of the old year 1869. Truly was it written :
Disjointed things his magic made cohere.
That, called "Impossible," was swift begun ;
In less than sixty days the task was done —
Our Opera House assumed its peerless stand.
Complete— •' Star Theatre " of the land !
Retracing our steps to State street, at its junction with North
Pearl, upon its northwest corner stands a venerable elm tree, which
commands our attention. This tree was planted more than one
hundred years ago by Philip Livingston, one of the signers of the
Declaration of Independence. It was then merely a twig, and it
is said that Mr. Livingston severely rebuked a young sailor, one
morning, who was about to cut it down for a switch or a cane.
Upon the north side of State street, not far above North Pearl,
stands St. Peter's Church. Here rest the remains of Lord George
Howe, who was probably the most beloved of any British officer
ever in command of American troops. He it was who said to a
comrade : "Any gentleman officer will find his equal in every
regiment of the Americans. I know them well. Beware how you
under-estimate their abilities and feelings, civil, social and mili-
.tary." He was slain on his march to Ticonderoga, July 6, 1758.
A monument was erected to his memory in Westminster Abbey by
the province of Massachusetts Bay.
Forty-four years after his interment, a new place of worship was
erected. The vault was then opened, and the decayed coffin of
rich mahogany was revealed. It contained the ashes of the gallant
dead, enshrouded in habiliments of gorgeous silk. The hair, dressed
in the fashion of the age, was found to have grown several inches,
and the ribbon that bound it was yet black and glossy. All, on
exposure, seemed to shrink into dust.

f,

.'&

ELM TREE CORNER, NORTH PEARL STREET IN 1805.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 89
Fifty-seven years elapsed, and in 1859 the " Spirit of the Age"
reared the beautiful gothic church which now occupies the ground.
Again the sacred remains, inclosed by a double coffin, were revealed
to view, and still the two pieces of ribbon which bound his hair
together was preserved. Once more the coffin was inclosed by
another, and placed in its receptacle beneath the church, there to
remain, until at the bugle call, at the Last Reveille, his bones will
start, and his soul will answer to the Final Muster.
Space does not admit of our tracing but a few of the links between
the present and the past with which this old city abounds. The
tourist who wanders among the one hundred and eighty streets of
Albany, desiring to learn more of its associations, will find Mun-
sell's Historical Collections of Albany, most valuable books of
information and reference.
Tweddle Hall now stands near Livingston's elm tree, upon
what was once known as the Webster corner, and from that
noted spot cart-loads of Noah Webster's spelling books were scat
tered over Northern and Western New York. Upon State street,
opposite the elm tree stood the Stevenson House, completed in
1780. It was then a wonder in architecture, being in a style quite
different from anything in Albany. It was purely English through
out, its furniture was imported from England, and it was geneially
known by the distinctive title of " The Rich Man's House."
There are many houses which might justly claim that title now in
our old city.
Where Perry's Building, a fine new block upon North Pearl
street, now stands, was once the Vanderheyden Palace. It was
erected by one of the old burghers in 1725. The bricks and some
of the other material were imported from Holland. It was one of
the finest specimens of Dutch architecture in this country. The

90 THE tourist's GUIDE.
old mansion figures in Irving's " Bracebridge Hall," as the resi
dence of Herr Anthony Vanderheyden. Its iron vane, in the form
of a horse at full speed,, now occupies the peak of the southern
gable of Sunnyside. That gable is almost a complete fac-simile
of the one of Vanderheyden's Palace, over which the vane turned
for more than a century.
This fine old house was pulled down in 1833. The Baptist
church which was reared upon its site has also bowed its head
before the spirit of progress.
Let us hope that the old house upon Pemberton's Corner, at the
intersection of North Pearl and Columbia streets, may long be
spared ! This building was erected in 1710, and for more than
fifty years has been used as a grocery store. Whoever will step
within, will be shown an oil painting of the house and its surround
ings in 1710. Photographs representing its early days are also for
sale there.
The name of Anneke Jans is as familiar to the ear as that of any
American lady ; but even Albanians, generally, are not aware
that Anneke used to live at the corner of James and State
streets, where Hurcomb now keeps his fashionable clothing store.
She was buried in 1663, in the Middle Dutch Church yard, Beaver
straet. She had eight children, six of whom married and multi
plied and replenished the earth at such a rate, that it is estimated,
if their ancient farm in New York, now belonging, to Trinity
Church, and supposed to be worth several millions, was recovered
and equally divided among all who claim to be her descendants,
they would get about twenty shillings apiece.
Passing down Columbia street to Broadway, we notice that
workmen are rebuilding the great printing house of Messrs. Weed
& Parsons, which was destroyed by fire early in the present year.

VANDERHEYDEN PALACE.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 91
More than three hundred workmen were thrown out of employ
ment by this disaster. It was a fearful fire, destroying numerous
stores and dwelling houses, but from its ashes have already arisen
structures which forbid our regretting our losses.
We sometimes hear this age called the iron age ; but recent
advances in the application of paper to the arts would require a later
and more significant cognomen. The "paper age'' it is getting
to be, in more senses than one. Paper collar manufacture has de
veloped into a very large and important industry. Those who
visit Albany, and have leisure to go over the Albany Paper Collar
Company's establishment, at 621 Broadway, will be surprised and
entertained by what they may see and hear. Of the seventy or
more manufacturers in the United States, the Albany company,
according to official returns, are excelled in capacity by only six.
The cash capital of this company is over fifty thousand dollars,
and working capacity' of the factory is eighty thousand collars per
day of ten hours. They give employment at their collar factory
to from forty to fifty persons, mostly girls, and to about the same
in addition, at the box factory of George N. Cozine, 283 and 285,
Broadway, which is fitted up with all the latest improved machin
ery, and devoted expressly to making the little box into which the
collars are put, each box containing ten collars systematically
rolled in the least possible room. Ten of these little boxes are
encased in another very neat box or cartoon, and in shipping, fifty
cartoons are packed in regular sized cases adapted to the various
styles of collars. These cases are transported to the remotest
markets of the country. Their customers are to be found among
the leading business houses throughout the north from Portland,
Me., and Boston, in the east, to Omaha, Nebraska City and Leav
enworth in the west; in the leading markets of the Southern
States, in Galveston, at San Francisco on the Pacific, at Montreal,

9-Z THE tourist's GUIDE.
Ottawa, Prescott, Kingston and Toronto in the Province Ontario,
Canada. It may interest some to know that four thousand boxes are daily
filled by the Albany Paper Collar Company, the covers of which
are ornamented with a fine representation of our new State Capitol.
"Colfax" and "Red Cloud" are largely represented upon the
boxes designed for western marts.
But to mention the manufactures of Albany would be an end
less task. In every branch of industry, machinery is throbbing,
and men are toiling to keep pace with the demands of the age.
The Albany Iron Works of Mr. Henry C. Haskell bear a fine
reputation. The iron fence around the cathedral — over five hun
dred feet in length, and considered a splendid specimen of design
and workmanship — also the iron bridges over the Erie canal
nearly all through the State, have been manufactured here.
It is apprehended that Albany Beef, sometimes erroneously
denoted Sturgeon, will at a future day be driven out of the market
by the shad which Mr. Seth Green is artificially propagating, at the
rate of a million a day, turning them into the river. And although
shad are " Nature's pincushions for bones " — the interior of a shad
looks like a fine tooth comb or a wool card, and the best way to
get out the meat is to use a toothpick — Mr. Green's work will
nevertheless be of great public value, affording to thousands a
nutritious and wholesome article of food. The hatching grounds
are on the Hudson, about ten miles from Albany.
The manufacturers of the " Cold Water Soap," another branch
of industry, are busily engaged in supplying a brisk demand for
this new article in twenty-seven counties of this State.
Some live State agents of Insurance Companies make this city

the tourist's guide. 93
their headquarters. Albany ale and Albany lumber are known
everywhere. Latham, " The" Hatter, opposite the Delavan House, drives as
brisk and fashionable a trade as was ever known in the famous
" English Hat Store," of olden times.
The Tontine Coffee House, that celebrated home for strangers
and for gossips, which stood upon the site now occupied byKoonz's
State Street Carpet Store, has been exceeded in prestige by the
comfortable Delavan, of to-day.
And in place of the contracted printing office of the Webster
Brothers, we have, besides those of lesser note, the great print
ing establishment of Messrs. Van Benthuysen & Sons, which was
founded in 1812. This firm manufacture paper at their own
mills, at Cohoes and Castleton. Their type is cast, their printing,
press work and binding, is all done beneath one roof, which towers
up well toward the sky.
What more shall we say of Albany ? We have drawn but a
rude and incomplete sketch where we desire to present nothing less
attractive than an artistic steel line engraving. Many people will
visit or make their home in Albany and note only its manufacturing
interests, its churches and schools, the fine houses upon its hills,
its places of modern resort and interest. They are interested only
in the new houses, which tell of pride, prosperity or comfort. The
old house whispers nothing to them of by-gone days. The ruin
never calls in their hearing, "Come here and listen to my stories,
there are secrets here yet." Men are alike, as far as they can see.
The distinctions of dress, bearing, and personal beauty, are the
only differences they note. Every individual of the species (unless
he has lived in Mississippi) has two eyes ; and unless he has been
in the wars, or on a railroad, possesses two arms and two legs.

94 THE tourist's guide.
Beyond these appendages — into the peculiarities of race, education,
and mental powers, which make one to differ from another — they
never inquire. But let the student of human nature come to this
venerable city, and he will discover here a strange medley of con
servatism and enterprise, novelties and diversities of thought and
deed, gonial, independent, and sometimes obstinate and eccentric
habits, looks, actions, and traits of character. Y''et, urbanity and
honor characterize Albanians. The stranger who is familiar with
the ways and moods of people generally, in our large cities, will
be charmed with the courtesy and kindliness shown him here. It
is a city to be sought with pleasure, for a visit or a home, and only
to be left with regret.
In closing this sketch of our Capital City, we are tempted to
present a picture from the olden times. Many might be given
which would amuse and interest our readers, but let one suffice.
We extract it from " Random Recollections of Albany," published
by Mr. Munsell, in 1866 — a small volume which merits a more
extensive circulation than it has attained.
In the early part of this century, Mr. Goldsborough Banyar,
was widely known as one of the most intelligent, wealthy, and re
spected citizens of Albany. He was the most perfect type of the
Anglo-American then living. The last of a race, or class of men,
now totally extinct — a race born in England, grown rich in
America, proud of their birth and prouder of their fortune. He
had been a secretary of state under the colonial Government, and
had performed the duties of his office in a manner highly honorable
to his talents and integrity, and very advantageous to the province.
Through his very long life he was considered a man of strict 'and
unimpeachable integrity. At the breaking out of the war of the
Revolution, Mr. Banyar, very naturally, and the prospect con-

THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 95
sidered, very wisely, took sides (but not arms) with the mother
country. He was a royalist in feeling, and doubtless in principle —
the feeling, it is believed, underwent no change : the principle, in
the course of time, became temperately, and we may add judiciously,
modified by his own interests. He had, while in his office as
secretary, obtained from the crown many valuable grants of land.
These lands were the sources of his wealth. With the eye of in
telligence, he watched the course of events, and like a skilful pilot,
steered between the two extremes. He wisely kept a -friend in
either port, and had always an anchor out to windward. In short
he preserved his character from reproach on the other side of the
the water, and his lands from confiscation on this.
His mind kept pace with the intelligence of the age. He became
an American when America became triumphant — thought better of
Republicanism as it approximated to power ; and finally, without
abating one jot of his love for the land of his birth, came quietly
into our political arena under the banner of Jefferson.
He was no American at the commencement of the war, but an
Englishman born and bred, with the badges of office and confidence
still in his possession.
Yet he took no part — gave no aid, and but little comfort to the
enemy, for when secretly applied to, for advice, he sent by the
messenger a basket of fruit — and when solicited for information,
the return was a basket of eggs. He was therefore no Tury, but
merely a judicious politician ; in which character if he acquired no
fame, he at least preserved his reputation and his property, and
merited the thanks of those remembered in his will.
At the commencement of this century he must have been about
three score and ten years of age. He was a short, stout built
man, English alike in form, in character and aspect, and at this

96 THE tourist's guide.
period was infirm, gouty and nearly blind, but still sound in
mind and venerable in appearance. The colored servant by whom
he was led, was no unimportant personage. He was his man Fri
day, his man Peter, his all-in-all, for without his aid locomotion
was impossible. Peter resembled his master in every particular,
save his gout and his blindness. He was of the same height and
make, as well dressed, nearly as old, and quite as grey. He was,
moreover, as independent, as important, and as irritable. Nothing
could be more amusing than their conversations and disputes when
moving together, arm in arm, down Pearl street, and across State to
Lewis' tavern, upon the present site of 78 ^tate street, a haunt to
which they resorted daily when the weather would permit. Their
dialogue was generally in a pretty sharp tone of voice, and almost
always upon a disputacious key. In crossing State street, one
day, on their return from Lewis', it commenced thus : —
" Peter," said the old man, " you're leading me into the mud."
" There's no mud here," says Peter.
" But I say there is," retorted the old man, fiercely.
"I say there ain't," said Peter.
"D — n it, sir," said the old man, giving his arm a twitch and
coming to a full halt, " don't you suppose I know the nature of
the ground on which I stand ?"
"No," says Peter, "don't 'spose you know any such thing ;
you ony stept one foot off the stones, that's all."
" Well, well, come along then ; what do you keep me standing
in the street for?"
"/don't keep you," said Peter," " you keep yourself."
" Well, well," come along," said the old man, "and let me know
when I come to the gutter."

TRINITY CHURCH.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 97
" You are in the gutter now," said Peter.
" The devil I am," said the old man; then pausing a moment,
he added in a sort of moralizing tone, " there's a worse gutter than
this to cross, I can tell you, Peter."
" If there be," said Peter, " I should like to know where 'tis :
I have seen," continued Peter, " every gutter in town, from the
ferry stairs to the Patroon's, and there ain't a-worse one among them
all." " But the gutter I mean," said the old gentleman in a lower
tone, "is one which you cross in a boat, Peter."
" 'Tis strange," said Peter, " that I should never have found it
out : now lift your foot higher or you'll hit the curb-stone, — cross a
gutter in a boat ! " ejaculated Peter, " 'tis nonsense."
" 'Tis so written down," said the old man.
" Written down," retorted Peter, " the newspapers may write
what they please, but I dont believe a word on't."
"I'm thinking," said his master, " they put too much brandy in
their toddy there at Lewis'."
" I thought so too," said Peter, " when you were getting off the
steps at the door ; and since you've mentioned that boat I'm sure
of it."
" What is that you say ? " demanded the old man, coming to a
halt again, and squaring himself round ; you thought so, did you ?
what right had you to think anything about it ? I tell you, Peter,
you're a fool ! "
The attitude and appearance of the parties at this moment, was
so whimsical — in fact so ridiculous, that a school boy who overheard
this colloquy could not refrain from laughing aloud.
7

98 THE tourist's guide.
" Who is that ? " said the old man, taking quietly hold of Peter's
arm again.
" Don't know him," said Peter, " spose he's one of the 7ww
comers ! "
" New comers ! " said the old man, repeating the phrase. " Is
he old or young, Peter ?"
" Young," said Peter.
" Then I forgive him," said the old man : and after a short pause,
added in a lower tone of voice, " may he never know the misfortune
of blindness or the gout."
However it was not at his infirmities that the narrator of this
story laughed, but at the singular oddity of the scene, the ridicu
lous dialogue, and still more ridiculous attitudes of the party.
But enough of the reminiscences of the past. If these few
pages tend to portray to the citizens of more distant parts of our
State, Albany in some degree as it ivas, and as it is, our aim will
be accomplished. Let us not keep the dates and meagre details
of history, which are but the skeleton frame of life in other days,
and let the recollection of the manners, customs and people that are
gone, perish entirely from memory.
Opposite Albany lies Greenbush, formerly known as Het
Green Bosch. East Albany, French's Village, and Bath-on-the
Hudson, also lie on this side of the river, although all these vil
lages are frequently (mis)called Greenbush.
Some of the residences in East Albany command views which
are fully equal to any which can be obtained from the hills of Al
bany. One " Place" which we wot of there, has an outlook of
the Hudson, and the open -country upon the north. A full view
of the stately city of Albany on the west, on the east the green

THE tourist's GUIDE. 99
woods, and on the south both the Helderberg and the Catskill
Mountains. The grounds of this old place were once adorned
(though not now), with sixty -five varieties of roses ! Greenbush
was formerly a portion of the Van Rensselaer Manor. Some old
houses, and an ancient place of sepulchre, may be seen upon the
river's bank.
In East Albany there is a Sulpher Spring of some note. Who
ever will quaff a draught as it comes from the iron pump in the
waiting room of the depot, will enjoy mineral water which tastes
much worse than any of the waters at Saratoga. It is amusing to
see the faces of unsuspecting travelers who alight, thirsty, from
the passing trains, and having never tasted anything like this water
before, devoutly hope that they never may again.
In 1866 a fine railway bridge was completed between East
Albany and the city. Its cost was $1,150,500. In addition to
this a magnificent iron bridge, light, airy and substantial, intended
for the accommodation of passenger trains and foot travel, is
rapidly approaching its completion in a more central location. By
this bridge, trains will cross the river directly to the new Union
Depot, which is to be erected in the rear of the Delavan House.
These are improvements and facilities which the traveling public
cannot fail to appreciate.
Aside from the Public Buildings which we have previously
named in Albany, there are many others worthy of notice.
The Dudley Observatory was founded by the munificence of Mrs.
Blandina Dudley, who expended upward of $75,000 in its erec
tion and endowment. Other patrons of science have also liberally
contributed to secure its prosperity.
It stands on Observatory Hill, near the northern limits of the
city. It is built in the form of a cross, and contains some of the

100 THE tourist's GUIDE.
largest and finest instruments ever constructed. Among the instru
ments is a calculating engine made by C. Scheutz, a Swede, and
purchased by John F. Rathbone. It is the only one in existence.
A large class of calculations is performed by its use, and the results
are impressed upon leaden plate ready to electrotype and print.
Admission can be gained by application to the Trustees.
The Albany Medical College, which is a prosperous establish
ment with a fine museum, and the Law School of the University of
Albany are on Eagle Street. They have the facilities for teaching
the respective sciences.
The Albany Almshouse, hisane Asylum, and a Fever Hospital
are located upon a farm of one hundred and sixteen acres, one and
a half miles southwest of the city, and are under the management
of the city authorities. The Industrial School building is located
on the same farm.
The Albany City Hospital, on Eagle Street, was incorporated in
1849. The Albany Orphan Asylum., on Washington Street, at the
junction of the Western Turnpike, was incorporated in 1831 ; it was
erected, was as the City Hospital, by private subscription ; it is
now aided by State funds.
The St. Vincent Orphan Asylam, incorporated in 1849, is under'
the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. The male department, two miles
west of the Capitol, is under charge of the Christian Brothers.
There are upward of fifty church edifices. The Cathedral, upon
Eagle street, with its four thousand sittings, and its fine, stained-
glass windows — and the Church of St. Joseph, on Ten Broeck
street — are perhaps the most prominent structures.

FIRST LUTHERAN CHURCH OF ALBANY, 1870

THE tourist's GUIDE. 101
The State Normal School and Folsom's Business College are
here — also a Male, and Female, Academy, and numerous other
schools of more or less note.
At No. 5 Fayette Place, is the studio of the distinguished
sculptor, E. C. Palmer, whose "Angel at the Sepulchre " has
added so greatly to his earlier fame.
Above the city, on the flats, is the Schuyler House, a plain and
antiquated dwelling. Here dwelt Colonel Peter Schuyler, the
first Mayor of Albany, who took four Sachems of the Mohawk
tribe to England, and created no small sensation by presenting
them at the Court of Queen Anne. In 1759, it was destroyed by
fire — the means of extinguishing fires at that day being chiefly,
that it rained sometimes. The house was immediately rebuilt,
however, and portions of the original walls are still standing.
In the northern part of the city, extending from Broadway to
the river, surrounded by large and very beautiful grounds, is the
Van Rensselaer Manor House, one of the most attractive town
residences in the State. It is over two hundred years since the
mansion of the first Patroon was built upon this spot, and some
portions of the present house were reared in 1765. The horse cars
(vhich run between Albany and West Troy, pass this grand old
place. The Albany Rural, Cemetery is accessible by these horse cars.
It is situated on the Troy road, about midway between Albany and
Troy. It stands fifth in the order of establishment of Rural
Cemeteries in the United States. For beauty of natural scenery,
it is not excelled, we believe, by any other in the country. In
fact, there are Cities of the Dead which have been widely written
of and admired, which are in every way inferior to this. The
Albany Rural Cemetery is not a show-place. It is but little

102 THE tourist's GUIDE.
talked of. Its monuments are perhaps exceeded in expense, in
many instances, by those of Greenwood, Mount Auburn and Laurel
Hill — but in none of these places of note are the evidences of taste,
care, and affectionate remembrance of those who have gone from
us, more evident — in none are the flowers more profuse and beau
tiful — the rare and tropical plants more numerous or more carefully
tended. There is also very little of that monotony and sameness of style
amid the marble and granite designs, which so often wearies the
stranger in visiting a cemetery to which he has no especial or ten
der tie.
Among the finest monuments are the Banks Memorial, which
shows a granite base, surmounted by " The Angel at the Sepul
chre," that matchless work of our sculptor. Palmer. Probably
the most unique and mournfully interesting stone is one of white
marble erected to the memory of William H. Pohlman, Adjutant
of the Fifty-Ninth Regiment of New York Volunteers, who died at
Gettysburg, in the twenty-second year of his age. Stones of irregu
lar yet harmonious shape are piled one upon another. Each stone
bears the name of a battle in which the young hero participated —
Gaines' Mills, Savage's Station, Bull Run, Yorktown, Fair Oaks,
Malvern Hill, Fairfax Court House, Chantilly, Antietam, Fred-
ricksburg, Turkey Bend, White Oak Swamp — the list is a long one,
fearfully long for the young patriot of twenty-two.
Surmounting these stone witnesses, are his cap and knapsack,
sword and the " dear old flag," all beautifully wrought in the marble.
" Cease Firing"
is the sole inscription.
Not far distant is the monument bearing a medallion of the
late Brevet Brigadier-General Lewis Benedict.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 103
A very unique memorial marks the resting place of the lamented
Dr. Alden March.
Beautiful designs abound and are far too numerous to be mentioned
here. Upon the North Ridge there has been erected the Winslow
tomb of such size as to be often mistaken for a small chapel.
Its reputed cost was twenty-five thousand dollars. Near this
tomb is a simple stone with this very significant inscription :
" When this you see, remember me.
And keep me in your mind ;
Let all the world say what it will.
Speak of me as you find."
St. Agnes (Catholic) Cemetery is near the Albany Rural, and
a glimpse of both may be obtained by travelers who pass over the
Rensselaer and Saratoga road.

r-^oi

VI.

tAILWAY trains glide along like jointed reptiles,
for the most part, through flat and uninteresting
country. The passenger may gobble half a view
here and there, just so as to provoke a slight desire
to see " more." But the Railway Commissioner
and Engineer regard the landscape as the last item
to be considered in laying out a road. A short cut
is of more consequence than a superb view. And so before the
iron horse steams over its course — its career of mangling life and
limb is inaugurated by a wholesale mangling of the beauties of
Nature. The Albany and Susquehanna Road is an exception to this
general rule. It lies beside rocky cliffs which could not be entirely
blasted away, and among scenery which an army of Engineers
could not really spoil. It is also a road upon which very few ac
cidents have occured. Therefore the traveler may step upon one
of its trains, with a pretty reasonable certainty of enjoying himself
and coming out all right at last, at his place of destination.

105
Reader, we are bound to the Helderbergs. Until quite recently
we knew about as much of the Helderbergs — aside from the fact
that we can see their peaks from our windows — as we know of New
Zealand. From this state of ignorance we have emerged, and we
propose now to impart the information we have gained, to those
who are no wiser than we were.
And with a mental shiver we recognise the fact, that we cannot
do justice to this unique Cliff region, without being very geological
and quite scientific — ^but not absolutely stupid, we venture to hope.
In the State of New York are three principal mountain chains.
The Adirondacks cover the northern granite region of the State,
of rock which has been violently heated, if not melted, by the
earth's internal fires. They are plutonic mountains, with peaks
six thousand feet above the tide level. The Catskills are an
isolated groupe of peaks on the Hudson, more than a hundred miles
south of their granite elder brethren of the Adirondack. They are
principally of the old red sandstones and shales which underlie the
coal formation. These are sedimentary rocks, the silt of ancient
ocean currents ; their peaks exceed three thousand feet in height.
Between these, north of the Catskills, not twenty miles distant,
is the line of small mountains known as the Helderbergs, the third
though not the least of the mountain systems of New York. They
are a long angular range of solid blue limestone cliffs, running
nearly east and west. Their geographical name exists only in
Albany County; but geologically, they are over three hundred
miles in length, their unbroken strata reaching from the Hudson to
Niagara and on into Canada. Their greatest altitude is one
thousand two hundred feet.
These calcareous cliffs, filled with fossil, petrified sea shells,
answer to the European Silurian and Devonian ages. By its

106 THE tourist's GUIDE.
peculiar fossil shells the Helderberg, like other rock, is known
when met with in distant regions. In subterranean darkness it
stretches, a hidden, undulating sheet of strata, an inner mantle to
the continent, cropping out here and there, and leaving its wooded
" Silurian ruins " to render picturesque the scenery of many a
State. In the far West a geologist picks up a fossil shell, examines it,
and says, " Helderberg" — surmises that good limestone may there
about be found, and gypsum for the plasterer's art, and iron pyrites
— fool's gold — useful for sulphur and sulphuric acid manufacture.
Caves also may be expected and sulphur springs are usually not far
distant. A Tennessee geologist also picks up a petrifaction and makes
note of it as " Helderberg." And in Britain, Sir Roderick
Murchison, mentioning the existence of his favorite Siluria in
America, will not fail to dwell upon the Helderberg formation.
Yet it is very possible that of these three, not one has ever seen
the Helderberg.
Recent excursions have been made thither by the members of
the Albany Institute and of the Troy Scientific Association. A
party of Editors have also recently found this trip in the highest
degree enjoyable.
As we believe that excursions to the Helderbergs are to become
fashionable, and also because we love to ramble away from the
Beaten Path, we will in part transcribe our own experience, and in
part avail ourselves of the scientific knowledge of one who has
known the Helderbergs long and well, in portraying the wonders
of this region.
" Helderberg " is a Dutch corruption of the old German Helle-
berg, meaning " Clear Mountain." This name was given by the

THE tourist's GUIDE. 107
first settlers of Schoharie County, who had the bold and distinct
bergs constantly in view during their first day's journey westward
into the wilderness. Though plainly visible, and but ten or fifteen
miles from the ancient city of Albany, few of its citizens appear to
know of their traditions and their beauties. Helderberg to many
Albanians means "anti-rent," "sheriff's posse," military, blue
uniforms, bright muskets and bayonets, and shackled prisoners,
against whom no crime being proved they are always released.
Most of the farms on these hills were once called " manor land."
It had its feudal lord and manor-house after the fashion in England
prior to our Revolution. The farmers were peasantry, of whom
feudal rents in the shape of wheat, chickens, and days' service
were exacted, though the land was deeded to them, their heirs and
assigns forever. Ignorant emigrants were led to invest their all,
clear and improve the land, and give it value, not dreaming that
they would have to pay the interest on their own improvements.
The Revolution came, the battles of liberty were fought, and
down went Tory and Royalist. After that feudal exactions seemed
hard and oppressive. Some now refused to pay the " quarter sale"
— one quarter of the price received by the farmer each time a place
was sold. If the farm was sold four times, the " Lord" received
the cash value of the farm, and still pretended to own it ! Threats
not sufficing, they were called "Anti-renters," and war was levied
upon them. The conflict is not wholly ended yet ; but quarter
sales are abolished.
The Susquehanna Railroad trains, as they leave Albany crowded
with tourists bound for Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, or distant
Pennsylvania, are forced to follow the wall-like precipices facing
the Helderberg almost along their whole extent, far to the north
and west, before they are able to climb it.

108 THE tourist's GUIDE.
To those who desire to escape for a day from the oven-like city
in summer; who wish to enjoy a scramble amoung romantic cliffs,
in shady woods, beside cool waterfalls ; to gather fossil corals and
shells, to visit and explore the known caves, and search for new
ones among the cliff ledges, the "Indian Ladder" region of the
Helderbergs offer superior inducements.
Taking an early train on the Susquehanna Railroad and stopping
at Guilderland Station brings one within a mile of the Indian Lad -
der Gap. Even from that distance the mountain spurs are visible.
Wondrous are the deep, black shadows that they cast early in the
day. A scarcely discernible zigzag ascending line, shows the Indian
Ladder Road crawling up the mountain and along and beneath the
precipices. It is but an easy two hours' drive, however, from Albany, and
many may prefer to visit it in the saddle or with a pleasant party.
If the weather be dry and not very sultry the jaunt will well repay
you. If your horses are brave and steady, you may drive up the
mountain road — it is a mile to the summit — or you may lead your
horses up, the party walking leisurely after. Still some descending
team may be met, and it is ill passing on that narrow cliff road.
Notwithstanding many accidents, this road is the highway, winter
and summer, of the country folk.
If, however, you have a desire to " foot it," and wish to see the
wildest scenery the place affords, abandon the road and follow the
stream, called by some Black Creek, up the valley to the foot of
the gorge — a savage stairway up the mountain slope, of broken
rock-fragments and great water-worn boulders. Then, if your heart
fail you not — for any place more difficult to climb is impossible —
you will ascend for a breathless, dangerous, exciting three or four

THE tourist's GUIDE. 109
hours to the foot of the cliffs and the falls — an escalade which will
bear comparison with anything climbable.
But you should not return without mementoes of your visit.
Carry then a satchel, unless you have capacious pockets; for curi
osities will meet you on every side. Besides the fossil medals of
creation — petrifactions and minerals — the collector will find a
thousand objects of interest.
Your satchel may contain some luncheon ; a geogioal hammer
and a chisel would not be inappropriate ; your sketch-book by all
means. Gun or fishing-tackle here are useless ; hunting there is
none, save foxes, " coons," some ruffled grouse (partridge), and at
times wild pigeons. The fishing is also poor, except for pickerel,
perch, sunfish, and the like, in lakes and brooks amidst the hills
back from the summit.
What is this Indian Ladder so often mentioned ? In 1710 this
Helderberg region was a wilderness ; nay, all westward of the Hud
son River settlements was unknown. Albany was a frontier town,
a trading post, with Indians for beaver pelts. From Albany over
the sand plains — Schen-ec-ta-da (pine-barrens) of the Indians — led
an Indian trail westward. Strait as the wild bee or the crow the
wild Indian made his course from the white man's settlement to his
own home in the beauteous Schoharie Valley. The stern cliffs of
these hills opposed his progress ; his hatchet fells a tree against
them, the stumps of the branches which he trimmed away formed
the rounds of the Indian Ladder.
That Indian trail, then, led up this valley, up yonder mountain
slope, to a cave now known as the " Tory House." The cave
gained that name during the Revolution. The trail ended in a
corner of the cliffs where the precipice did not exceed twenty feet
in height. Here stood the tree — the old Ladder. In 1820, this

110 THB tourist's GUIDE.
ancient ladder was yet in daily use. There are one or two yet
living who have climbed it. Greater convenience became neces
sary, and the road was constructed during the next summer. It
followed the old trail up the mountain. The ladder was torn
away, and a passage through the cliffs blasted for the roadway.
The rock-walled pass at the head of the road is where the Indian
Ladder stood. The Indians had onee a similar ladder near Niagara
Falls. There were probably many such among the cliffs. It was
possibly the resemblance of this wild, mountain scenery to that of
father-land far away that induced its early settlement by the Swiss,
and gave the name of Berne to the neighboring town.
You have followed the rapid brook up the valley through the
shadowy woods, and have reached a little prairie opening sur
rounded almost on every side by the great mountain slopes. It
seems a window whereby the crag-climber may observe the whole
extent of his labors. This spot was known as the " Tory Hook "
or Plat, in days gone by.
Towering above the uppermost tree-tops are the gray, battle
ment-like cliffs. Many a dark recess and inaccessible ledge can
be seen which human foot has never trod. Two lofty waterfalls
stream down, milk-white, from the cliff-top at the head of each
dry, rock-filled gorge. Your way lies to the right, up the gorge to
the smaller of the two falls.
Following the stream, you commence the ascent of the gorge.
It is no light undertaking. The bed of the stream is your best
road ; keep to the right. Difficulties begin ; you are frequently
compelled to cross the rapid stream on stepping-stones. At length
you reach what may be termed the foot of the gorge. The stream
rushes down in a number of little cascades — above it is lost amid
the huge rocks. Look upward ; your labor lies before you.

THE tourist's GUIDE. Ill
Up, then ! Up ! Ah ! is it fatiguing ? Look below ! It seems
easier to climb up than down. Retreat appears impossible, if not
recreant. Upward, then ! no longer over fallen rocks merely, but
over prostrate cliffs rather. Huge blocks as large as little cottages
or backwoods log-cabins are heaped in wild confusion ; up them and
over them ! More toilsome, nay, dangerous, becomes the ascent ;
but now the novelty and danger give new zest, and " Forward ! "
shouts one. Whereat you all, with vigorous competition hurrying,
climb and scramble upward ; sometimes on foot, oftener upon hands
and knees, and frequently prone, with aid of fingers and toe of boot,
making slow progress up the face of some fallen mountain.
To climb, some aid themselves with sticks snatched up from
where they were cast by the last great freshet that foamed down
the wild gorge. Do not take each wriggling thing among the rocks
to be a snake. One thinking to capture a serpent sunning himself
on the rocks, found a sleek, fat eel ! An eel there on those dry
rocks ? Assuredly. For, hark ! do you hear that steady rush
ing sound, as of a subterranean waterfall ? Hours of toilsome
climbing have passed. Look upward, the falls are before you at last.
From the brink of the dark cliff drops a spray-white stream, about
eighty feet, unkroken. Lost for a moment to sight it issues from
a rocky basin, an,d ripples down in two streams brightly over a
series of little stone steps, seldom over an inch in thickness. Sud
denly the smooth descent ceases ; the rock drops perpendicularly
fifteen or eighteen feet. Down the face of this wall or " fault "
dash two little cascades, hurrying down to lose their waters among
the huge rocks of the gorge. This is the Small Fall, sometimes
called the " Dry Falls."
Below (and on the cliffs above) this fall is one of the best locali
ties for Helderberg fossils or petrifactions. Among these fossil

112 THE tourist's GUIDE.
shells of ancient seas are many peculiar to the Helderbergs. The
names and features of these shells once mastered, two of the most
important of geological ages are knosirn to you. On the Pacific
slope, amidst the Sierras, throughout the North American conti
nent, even in foreign lands, knowing these fossils you will be able to
recognize the Silurian and Devonian rocks. The Helderbergs are
principally Silurian ; above this, on the summit of the hills and on
their southern slopes, Devonian rocks are found.
There is a stratum of the cliff rock, sometimes fifty feet in thick
ness, entirely composed of one variety of fossil shell. It is this
that gives such interest to Helderberg precipices, more than to
basalt Palisades, or even dread Wall-Face of the Adirondacks. If
you are fortunate you may find the out-crop of that stratum and
bring away a "chunk" of shells. A dozen or more varieties of
fossils may here be found.
Eastward the path leads to the " Big," " Mine Lot," or " Indian
Ladder Falls." Have a care when following this path; the over
hanging rocks are often loose and trembling. Sometimes your
mere approaching tramp will be sufficient to cause their rattling
fall. Suddenly you turn a corner of the cliff, and pause in ad
miration of the scene before you.
From the edge of the overhanging precipice, more than a
hundred feet above your head, streams down a silvery rope of spray,
with a whispering rush, sweeping before it damp, chilly eddies of
fugitive air, that sway the watery cable to and fro.
You may reach the cliff top from here by going further east,
where the precipices decrease in height. Search till you find the
ascent to a narrow ledge that leads to a square embrasure-like break
in the cliff ; it seems as though a huge block twenty feet square

THE tourist's GUIDE. 113
had been quarried out. In one corner you will discover the
crumbling fragments of a tree ladder ; it cannot exceed twenty-five
feet to the summit. Ascend, and you will have an idea of the
Indian Ladder.
Westward now along the cliff tops, back toward to the falls again,
and the Indian Ladder road. You reach the stream which forms
the Big or Mine Lot Fall, and, stepping through the bushes which
obscure your view, stand upon the verge of the precipice. To your
left, from the lowest ledge below, the fall leaps the cliff brink, and
pours in a steady stream.
Recline here and rest. Six inches beyond your feet is the mossy,
weather-worn, blackened cliff edge. Out beyond is empty air ;
below, the dark afternoon shadows of the perpendicular mountains
are already casting the valley in shade. The wild, rook-filled gorges
seem but tiny gutters ; the forests shrubbery ; all below miniature.
It is grand, thus reclining on the cliff brink, to view the wide
spread landscape to the north of the mountains — the joint basin of
the Hudson and the Mohawk-^a deep valley more than sixty miles
in width.
Leaving the fall, westward again along the cliff tops, brings you
to the Small Fall and a road ; following this you come out upon
another road. Look to your right: that deep angular cut through
the rock is the Pass, the head of the Indian Ladder road.
Descend the defile ; you are below the cliffs again in gloomy
shadow. Here stood the Indian Ladder. Observe the semi-
Alpine character of the road ; off this built-up, wharf-like way more
than one team has dashed. The trees on the long, steep slope be
neath have their history: "The horse struck that one; the man was
found just here." 8

114 THE tourist's GUIDE.
As you descend the road the cliffs increase in height, and the
Dome, a mantle-piece-like projection, fairly overhangs and threatens
it. Climb the debris beneath the Dome and you will find a path.
Follow it. It leads to a cave, the resort of Tories and Indians
during the Revolution.
" The Tory House" is a large circular or semicircular cavity in
the cliff, just above the road, a good view of which it commands.
It is a single room, perhaps twenty-five or thirty feet in diameter,
open on one side ; looking out over a block of fallen stone — an im
perfect rampart — down the wooded slope to the road, and beyond,
into the deep valley between the mountain spurs.
Here Jacob Salisbury, a notorious royalist spy, is said to have
been captured.
In the roof of the Tory House is a dark, spire-like cavity, which
has, apparently, no connection with any other chamber or cavern.
You may, returning, descend the mountain by the road, having
seen the more prominent places of interest of the Indian Ladder
region. We now turn to the numberless Helderberg caves. To discover
caves appears to require a cave-hunting instinct, a learned eye.
The under-world has its peculiarities. It differs from the upper-
world. The limestone rock of the Helderberg is the cave rock of the
world. Other names it may have beyond the oceans ; but the
rock is of the same age, and contains fossils similar to those found
here. Within thirty miles of the Indian Ladder one may count twenty
caverns large and small. Among them, in Schoharie County, Ball's
or Gebhard's Cave — brightest of alabaster caverns ; and Howe's
Cave, which strives to rival Kentucky's Mammoth Cave.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 115
The caves of the Helderberg are not glittering crystal grottos,
they are dark, damp and muddy. Among the cliffs, however, are
some caves comparatively dry.
Sutphen's Cave, near the Indian Ladder, is reached by descend
ing a narrow crevice through the rock to a ledge a few inches wide.
Along this you crawl, the cliff above and below you, a dangerous
path. Reaching a chill recess beneath overhanging cliffs, you are
at the cave entrance. The cave is said to be of some extent, and
perhaps it is — under water.
Westward, among the cliffs, above the village of Knowersville, is
Livingston's cave, a small, dry, and romantic cavern. Should you
happen to be near, it is worth a visit. West and east there are
many more caves which you may find by seeking. Near the Hudson,
toward Coeyman's, there are several.
At Clarksville, twelve miles from Albany, and eight or ten miles
southeast from the Indian Ladder, are more caves. Two of these
are well known ; the entrance of one is in the back-yard of one of
village houses. The subterranean river is the house well ; a pair
of steps lead down into a crevice in the rock. They have no other
water. For drinking it is unsurpassed, but it issues from lime
rock. This same river bursts forth near by in the bed of the
Oniskethau, and aids that stream to run a saw and paper mill.
Chaff thrown upon the river in the cave is soon found floating on
the mill-pond. The stream empties into the Hudson at Coeyman's.
It was once remarked that an amphibious animal might make its
way through the caverns from Hudson River to Niagara Falls
without once coming forth to daylight !
The "Half-mile Cave" — the larger cave, or the longer end of
the cave, if they are but one — is about a quarter of a mile from the
hotel in Clarksville. This cave is often visited, and has a large.

116 THE tourist's GUIDE.
wooden, cellar-like door, and wet, slippery steps, which lead in
winter down into warm, steaming darkness.
Mind your steps ; I speak literally. Now go down the dark hole
on your right ; it is a steep descent. You are in darkness again,
and your lights but feebly illuminate the place. There is a sicken
ing damp warmth ; it is not unlike a charnel-house, a catacomb.
Here is flint, there saltpetre ; pyrites through heat will yield sul
phur ; the alders and willows from beside mountain brooks give
choice charcoal. Here is gunpowder in the raw, for adepts in its
manufacture !
You may have a mile or more of clambering in and out from this
cave, and that is as good, though not quite so bad, as twenty -five
miles. There are long passages where you might drive a team of
horses and a wagon ; narrow, muddy passages in profusion ; bats,
overhead and fiuttering past you, everywhere.
The bats hang from the ceilings separately, and from one another
in curious festoons. Aroused by your approach, some take wing
and occasionally strike against your lantern, shattering the glass.
On all sides you hear them squeaking and chattering and grinding
their teeth ; it is horrid. How they live there is a mystery ; no
suitable food is visible, and the door of the cavern is kept closed.
Some of the bats seem withered and half dead ; others are more
lively. The gray or frosty bat is sometimes found here.
Cave explorations are interesting to those who love to see things
before unseen, new and surprising. Who knows, some one thus
exploring may discover a great, subterranean, transcontinental
river ; and underground, round-the-world canal, cheapening freight
age between New York and San Francisco.
Winter is the best time to visit caves ; it is certainly the most

THE tourist's GUIDE. 117
healthy season, for it is dangerous to enter a cold, damp cave in hot
weather. In winter the Indian Ladder or Mine Lot Fall is one huge icicle
from the cliff brink to its base.
Frequently upon the brow of the mountain you will see a ruined
tower perched ; surprised, you draw near. The door is low and
narrow, and seems to be almost closed by the ddbris ; it has a very
ancient look, and resembles some old feudal watch-tower you may
have seen in Europe. The slope below is white with rubbish, and
covered with fallen stone — the tower itself blackened with fire. It
is a Helderberg lime-kiln. The lime made here is the best known ;
many of the poorer farmers burn lime in the winter. It replaces
the charcoal burning of other regions, and though quite as laborious
and scorching, is more remunerative. These lime-burners will tell
you curious stories of the " animals" they have seen in the rocks ;
some of them have singular collections of the fossils.
The lime-stone, when blasted, breaks into large, regular blocks,
well suited for building purposes.
Often the roads on the summit of Helderberg are of solid, level
rock ; the mountain top is a plateau as smooth as a table. Can
tering along on horseback, the constant ringing clatter of iron
against stone is painful. In places the rock is jointed and in small
blocks, and resembles a Belgian pavement ; again it changes, and
a singular sight meets your eyes.
The rock plateau is split by -numerous paralled crevices, stretch
ing on either side in perspective ; if you view them with half-closed
eyes the dark clefts resemble railroad tracks. In stOrms the water
rushes down into the caves below. On the mountain (above the
village of New Salem) these clefts extend perfectly parallel for
miles. The foxes also find excellent hiding places in these clefts.

118 THE tourist's GUIDE.
The cave-country is not yet exhausted. Passing Esperanoe we
arrive at Schoharie. Three miles from Schoharie is Howe's Cave.
This cave was named in honor of its discoverer in 1842, Mr. Les
ter Howe.
Cave hunting at the East, is with many persons as much of a
passion, as is cave owning in Kentucky — a taste exemplified by
the late Colonel Croghan, who once said to a friend, in reference
to the celebrated Mammoth Cave : " I bought it for four thousand
dollars, and it has been a good purchase. I have been buying
caves now this twenty years. The first one I owned was in Illinois,
and now I own fifteen. People found that I was fond of caves and
they brought them to me and I have bought them. They are
curious things. / always was fond of caves ! "
Mr. Howe must also have been fond of caves. From the various
cavernous indications he imagined that there was a large cave in
this vicinity, and at leisure intervals for more than a year made
search for it. His visions were more than realized by the beauty
of the subterranean world which he discovered. Its arches and
walls reach away for miles, and Howe's Cave is probably still
half unexplored. When the entrance was discovered the passage
way was almost completely closed for almost a mile with gravel,
clay and rocks. By closing the side water-courses these obstruc
tions were washed away which otherwise it would have required
years of labor to remove.
Over the entrance stands the Cave House, a pleasant hotel, and
here from June to October a stream of visitors are constantly
coming to see the cave. We are of the opinion that Howe's Cave
will attain still a more extended fame. It is certainly the best
worth seeing of anything of a similur n.ature in this part of the
country. It is the Queen of the cave region of the Helderbergs

THE tourist's GUIDE. 119
where caves are plentiful, and range from the size of a quill to a
mammoth. Dressing for the exploration is always a comical affair — many
ladies assume a guise unnecessarily ugly when we consider that
the cave is usually dry during the summer months.
The first apartment visited in Howe's cave is the Lecture Room ;
forty feet wide — next comes Washington Hall — then the Bridal
Chamber, where more than one wedding has " come off," including
the nuptials of two daughters of its Discoverer. More than forty
names have been bestowed upon different points here, and many
of the places are well named, as Stygian Lake, over which we
sail to Plymouth Rock.
Stalactites abound here and many of the fine effects of torch
light illuminating walls and arches, columns and stalagmites, which
are described by those familiar with the Mammoth Cave, are to be
seen here.
Howe's Cave is said to rival or excel the Kentucky Cavern, but
as we are not fond of caves and have never visited the latter we
leave those wiser than ourselves to decide the mooted question.
The junction of the Cherry Valley, Sharon, and Albany Rail
road is at Cobleskill. The distance thence to Sharon Springs is
fourteen, and to Cherry Valley, the terminus of the road, is twenty-
three miles.
The mineral springs of Sharon gush out from the bed of a small
brook and from a steep wooded slope on its margin. Its Sulphur,
Magnesia, and Chalybeate springs have acquired a just celebrity.
For more than half a century their healing virtues have been
known, but only since 1835 has Sharon been a place of popular
resort. Upon the slope from which the fountains gush a curious

120 the tourist's guide.
phenomenon is exhibited. Within the space of a few rods are five
different springs — Chalybeate, White Sulphur, Blue Sulphur,
Magnesia, and pure water issuing from apertures which are in ,
some cases very near each other.
The village is finely located, as it has been said, i7i a valley on a
hill. Its nine hotels are always full, and the varied and lovely
scenery around Sharon as well as'^the fame of its springs have
enhanced the popularity of this fashionable resort.
Cherry Valley is a pretty little village and is also quite a
place of resort. It is noted as being the scene of a most sangui
nary massacre in 1778, when the Tories and the Indians scarce
spared one " to tell the fearful tale."
From Cherry Valley it is but a pleasant ride by stage or private
conveyance to either Richfield Springs or Cooperstown.
The village of Richfield Springs lies upon a narrow plain, near
the head of Canaderaga or Schuyler's Lake.
It has long been noted for the aristocratic and fashionable
character of its summer guests.
The waters here are justly celebrated for their healing virtues.
Hither the Mohawks came for the cure of frost-bitten feet ; and
tradition says that a famous healing prophet once dwelt upon a
beautiful island in the midst of Canaderaga Lake to whom invalids
from all the Iroquois used to come and leave their maladies. At
midnight he would glide softly away in his canoe, penetrate the
dark forest to the fountains, and then return to hig patients with
vessels full of the magic waters. He became proud and powerful ;
and at last he called himself the twin-brother of the Great Spirit.
The blasphemy kindled the anger of the Almighty, and it consumed
the boaster. One morning, when a bridal party airent thither to

THE tourist's GUIDE. 121
receive the prophet's blessing, the island had disappeared. The
Great Spirit in his wrath had thrust it, with the proud prophet, so
deep into the earth that the waters of the lake where it stood are
unfathomable by human measurement.
Lake Canaderaga is considered as beautiful as its name. It is
five miles in length, and a mile and a quarter at its greatest breadth.
Only one island breaks its surface, and there picnic and fishing
parties resort almost daily in fine weather. All around the
lake, the hills — ^partly wooded and partly cultivated — rise to a
high altitude, except on the north, where, less than a mile distant,
is the village.
From Richfield Springs the tourist may proceed by rail to Bing-
hamton and thence to Utica by the Utica, Chenango and Susque
hanna road — or from Binghamton may return to Albany. We
propose to ride over to Cooperstown.
But Cooperstown, with its associations with the name of one of
the first of American writers, is worthy of a chapter to itself, and it
shall have it.

<r-^oi

OT'^

VII.

|HIS beautiful village, once the home of Fenimore
Cooper, and the scene of several of his Leatherstock
ing Tales, will well reward the Tourist, the seeker of
quiet, rural beauty, of varied and picturesque scenery,
of boating, fishing, etc., and of healthful summer
residence. The following description is abridged chiefly from
the writings of Fenimore Cooper, as to the village and vicinity,
as they were a quarter of a century ago ; with notices of subse
quent changes, and of Cooperstown as it now is, from The New
York Evening Post (edited by William CuUen Bryant & Co.) and
other competent sources.:
Cooperstown was first settled about 1786, by Judge William
Cooper, father of the author, since which it has remained a charm
ing, but until lately, secluded and old-fashioned town. Now a
wondrous change salutes the visitor. Luxurious cars replace the
tedious lumbering stages ; one excellent large hotel — the Cooper
House — and half a dozen cheaper hotels and boarding-houses now

COOPERSTOWN, N. Y.
From the East.

THK tourist's GUIDE. 123
open ; another great hotel of the first-class now building ; streets
lighted with gas ; a Young Men's Association, with Library and
Reading-Room ; a fine Public School ; a fleet of boats, for sailing,
rowing or fishing, and two steamers on the lake, running regularly
and in connection with pleasure trips to the neighboring summer
resorts of Sharon, Richfield, &e., which are reached in several hours,
through varied and charming scenery. New York, Albany and
Utica papers are received here on the day of their dates, and the
telegraph connects with every quarter.
Cooperstown — the Capital of Otsego County, seventy' miles
west of Albany — has -about two thousand inhabitants, and is now
greatly enlarging and improving its attractions for both visitors and
residents. It has six Churches, three Banks, two Newspapers and
several manufactories.
A Sulphur Spring of moderate strength, already used in the
village, and several stronger ones in the vicinity, are to be de
veloped and utilized soon.
Cooperstown dkscribed by Cooper, in 1838.*
" The village is beautifully placed at the southern end of the
lake, being bounded on one side by its shores, and on another by
its outlet, the Susquehanna. The banks of both these waters vary
from twenty to forty feet in height. * * * The place is clean,
the situation is dry, and altogether it is one of the healthiest resi
dences in the State.
Lake Otsego ('Glimmerglass').
" Lake Otsego is a sheet of limpid water, extending, in a direc
tion from N. N. East, to S. S. West, about nine miles, and varying
in width from about three-quarters of a mile to a mile and a-half.

* The headings of subjects are added by the Editor.

124 THE tourist's GUIDE.
It has many bays and points, and as the first are graceful and
sweeping, and the last low and wooded, they contribute largely to
its beauty. The water is cool and deep, and the fish are conse
quently firm and sweet. The two ends of the lake, without being
shallow, deepen their water gradually, but there are places on its
eastern side in particular, where a large ship might float with her
yards in the forest. The fish of the Otsego have a deserved repu
tation, and, at particular seasons, are taken in great abundance.
Picturesque Scenery.
" The shores of the Otsego are generally high, though greatly
varied. On the eastern side, extends a range of steep mountains,
that varies in height from four to six hundred feet, and which is prin
cipally in forest, though here and there a farm relieves its acclivities.
The road along this side of the lake is peculiarly pleasant, and
traveled persons call it one of the most strikingly picturesque roads
within their knowledge. The western shore of the lake is also
high, though more cultivated. As the whole country possesses
much wood, the farms, viewed across the water, on this side of the
lake, resemble English park scenery, and are singularly beautiful,
even as seen from the village.
The Susquehanna River.
" Immediately opposite to the village, on the eastern side of the
valley (for the Susquehanna winds its way for near four hundred
miles through a succession of charming valleys,) the range of
mountain terminates, heaving itself up into an isolated hammock,
however, before it melts away into the plain.
Mountain Views.
" This rise is called the Vision, and its summit is much frequented
for its views, which are unrivaled in this part of the country. The

OTSEGO LAKE.
From near the Cooper House, Cooperstown, N. Y.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 125
ascent is easy, by means of roads and paths, and when there, the
spectator gets a bird's eye view of the village, which appears to lie
directly beneath him, of the valley, and of the lake. The latter, in
particular, is singularly lovely, displaying all the graceful curvatures
of its western shores, while the landscape behind them, embracing
Piers, and the hills beyond, is one of the richest and most pleasing
rural pictures that can be offered to the eye.
Like Switzerland and the Rhine.
" Nothing is wanting but ruined castles and recollections, to raise
it to the level of the scenery of the Rhine, or, indeed, to that of
the minor Swiss views.
" The mountains south of Cooperstown form a back-ground of
great beauty, and it is seldom that a more graceful and waving
outline of forest is met with anywhere. The Black hills, in par
ticular, are exceedingly fine, and are supposed to be nearly a
thousand feet above the level of the lake.
Climate. Mountain Air.
"As the valley of Cooperstown is about twelve hundred feet
above tide, it will readily be conceived that the summers are cool
and the air invigorating. The lake causes a circulation of air, it
being seldom that there is not a breeze either up or down this
beautiful sheet of water.
Villa Sites.
" The banks of the lake abound with eligible situations for
country houses. On its western side, there is scarcely a quarter
of a mile without one, and we feel persuaded that nothing but a
good road to the Mohawk is wanting to bring this spot into so
much favor as shall line the shores of the Otsego with villas.

126 THE tourist's GUIDE.
A Resort of Elegance and Ease.
" We predict that Cooperstown, during five months of the year,
will become a place of favorite resort for those who wish a retreat
from the dust and heat of the larger towns. * * *
" The beauty of its situation, the lake, the purity of the air, and
the other advantages already pointed out, seem destined to make it
more peculiarly a place of resort for those who live less for active
life than for its elegance and ease.
" Cooperstown is evidently destined to occupy some such place
among the towns of New York, as is now filled by the villages and
towns on the shores of the lakes of Westmoreland, in England,
and by the several bourgs on those of the different waters of
Switzerland." The above is from The Chronicles of Cooperstown, edited and
mostly written by Fenimore Cooper, in 1838.
Now that Cooperstown is brought within about four hours of
Albany, Utica or Binghamton ; that steamers are plying several
times daily around the lake, in connection with cars for all points ;
and that the beautiful shores are offered by their various owners
for building sites, large or small; the prophesy of Mr. Cooper
seems approaching fulfillment.
Lake Glimmerglass in The Deerslayer.
In his Deerslayer, he gives a more poetic picture of the lake,
as " a broad sheet of water so placid and limpid that it resembled
a bed of the pure mountain atmosphere compressed into a setting
of hills and woods."
" Cooper owed a part of his inspiration," said Edward Everett,
"to the magnificent nature which surrounded him ; to the lakes,
forests, Indian traditions," etc.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 127
N. p. Willis, the Poet, once wrote an elegant and character
istic description of the beauties of this lake and village, which is
too long to insert here. Historic Associations.
In 1783, Washington wrote a friend that he had "visited the
eastern, branch of the Susquehanna and viewed the Lake Otsego."
Mr. Cooper, in The Chronicles of Cooperstown, quotes the first
number of The Otsego Herald, April, 1795, that " Otsego was
originally the name of the lake, from which the town and county
were named ; and that the term, among the aborigines, signified a
place of rendezvous and of friendly greeting." Others say it sig
nified " The Beautiful Water."
The second newspaper ever published west of Albany — The
Otsego Herald — was commenced here by Elihu Phinney in 1795.
Its files are still preserved by his descendants.
Otsego Lake, the present village site, and the Susquehanna
River, were the scene of interesting events during the Revolution
ary War, when Major-General Sullivan sent General Clinton
(father of De Witt Clinton), with a brigade of twelve hundred
men, against the Indians. The incidents are recorded in The
Chronicles of Cooperstown, and are now commemorated by a new
drive near the river bank, south of the village, called the " Sulli
van road." Traces of the old Continental road, then cut from the
Mohawk to Otsego Lake, are still visible.
Prince Talleyrand, the great French Minister of State, visited
Judge Cooper in 1795, when an acrostic in French, on Miss Cooper,
appeared in the Otsego Herald, attributed to the pen of the great
Diplomat.

128 THE tourist's guide.
Here Samuel F. B. Morse, then a young painter, spent a part of
his youthful days, and amid these picturesque scenes cultivated the
tastes which made him, later. President of the National Academy
of Design, before he had become still more distinguished as the
Inventor of the Telegraph.
Subsequently, among the residents here, were Colonel William
L. Stone, editor of the New York Commercial Advertiaer, and
author of the Lives of Brant, Red Jacket, &c. ; Thurlow Weed,
the well-known politician ; Ambrose L. Jordan, of the New York
Bar ; Major-General John A. Dix ; Hon. Joseph L. White — one
of the most effective stump orators of thirty years ago — Hon. Levi
C. Turner, afterwards Judge Advocate under Lincoln ; Professor
George R. Perkins, once principal of the State Normal School,
Albany ; Rev. William Bradford, editor of the Eclectic Magazirie,
the New York Evangelist, &c. ; Professor J. Finley Smith, of
Hamilton College, and Hon. N. F. Doubleday, who here trained
his son, afterward General Doubleday of Fort Sumpter ; General
George W. Morell and General John C. Starkweather of the army,
aad commander A. P. Cooke of the navy, were also from Coopers
town. Hon. Samuel Nelson, senior Justice of the United States
Supreme Court, has resided here since 1825. The late President
Nott, of Union College, in his younger days Principal of the Cherry
Valley Academy, contributed matter for the press of the Messrs.
Phinney, in Cooperstown, from which were after issued the revised
Naval History and several other works of Fenimore Cooper, Judge
Judge Hammond's Political History of New York, Stone's Life of
Brant, an improved Family Bible, of which over two hundred
thousand were sold ; and many School-books of extensive circula
tion.

THE tourist's guide. 129
Views and Prospects Near Cooperstown.
From the upper floors of the Cooper Hotel, or from five to thirty
minutes walk, a dozen prospects and objects of interest may be
seen ; and the. drives on either side of the lake, by the river or over
the neighboring hills, or to the adjacent resorts of Richfield or
Sharon Springs, are varied and picturesque.
Among the favorite prospects and objects of interest within an
easy walk, are Hannah's Hill, West Hill, Prospect Rock, Council
Rock, Cooper's former Homestead Grounds, and his Grave, Lake-
wood Cemetery and Fairy Spring. Within two miles of the village,
west of the lake are several charming prospects and the Leather-
stocking (or Bear-cliff) Falls.
On the east side and nearly opposite, is The Chalet, a pictur
esque farm, once the property and favorite resort of Mr. Cooper, on
account of its wild and Swiss-like scenery and prospects. A little
farther up the mountain, here, is Leatherstooking's Cave.
Lakewood Cemetery.
Between the Chalet and the Village is the beautiful little rural
city of the dead — Lakewood Cemetery — where, over shaded walks
and drives, grass-grown graves and tasteful monuments, majestic
pines sing the requiem of the departed.
Here sleep the remains of several whose lives were given to pre
serve their country's liberty in the late war of the Rebellion.
" The muffled drum's sad roU has beat
The soldier's last tattoo.
No more on life's parade shall meet
The brave and gaUant few ;
On Fame's eternal camping ground
Their silent tents are spread.
And glory guards -with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead."

130 THE tourist's GUIDE.
The Cooper Monument is a white marble column, some thirty
feet high, executed by Launitz. The sculptures near the base
include emblems of literary, nautical and Indian life, and on its
capital is a statuette of Leatherstocking.
• ' My glance took in an obehsk,
High towering near the solemn wood
Where Natty Bumppo's stalwart form.
In lifted grandeur stood.
Careless his hand the rifle gi-asp'd.
That weap'on known throughout tlie world ;
And, crouching at the hunter's feet,
His faithful hound was curl'd." *
Points op Interest on Otsego Lake.
On the " Lake Glimmerglass" of Cooper's Deerslayer, the fav
orite resort for three generations of residents and guests — is still
" Wild-Rose Point," three miles from the village on the west side.
Here on green lawns and beside cool springs and winding brooks,
under the shade of venerable oaks, parties of citizens and visitors
are almost constantly found engaged in every kind of rural enjoy
ment. A mile nearer the village is Brookwood Point, now a
summer residence, in a majestic grove effectively developed by
tasteful improvement. The large farm of Judge Nelson (Senior
Justice of the U. S. Supreme Court), lies between this and the
village, and, like the adjoining lands, abounds in charming views.
On the east side, commencing at the Susquehanna, the spacious
lawns and groves of " Lakelands" and the Bowers Farm and
woods extend northward on the lake for a mile, with an attractive
landing for Lakewood Cemetery ; then the varied shores of mingled
lawn, forest, cliff and ravine of The Chalet, with a landing for
Leatherstooking's cave. Two miles from the village is Point
Judith, with its extensive lake prospects, its natural grove and
* From T. C. Latto's Poem on Cooper, in Harper's Monthly, July, 1870.

THE TOMB OF FENIMORE COOPER.
At Cooperstown.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 131
tangled wild wood, in their primitive luxuriance. A portion of the
lake shore above this slopes in gentle lawns to the water, while in
most places, bold banks, dark wooded recesses and precipitous rocks
form a foreground, east of which are found terraces fringed with
forest and grove, bounded by steep hills, and commanding those
charming views of the lake, its varied western shores and farms,
and of the village whose beauties Mr. Cooper has described in the
extracts already given.
Our space will not allow us to go farther from the village in our
details, but the steamers and smaller lake-craft are daily making
the circuit of a score of scenes of picturesque beauty and of classic
association around the lake.
Otsego Lake Steamers and other Craft.
The new steamer " Natty Bumppo," just completed for the season
of 1871, by A. H. Watkins & Co., will be a great luxury and con
venience to summer travelers and guests. Accommodating three
hundred passengers, embracing all modern conveniences and im
provements, it will make several pleasure trips daily around the
lake, and also connect regularly with trains of the Cooperstown,
Albany and Binghamton Railroad on the south, and by stages
with the Richfield Springs and Utica and Central Railroad on the
north. Sharon Springs and Cherry Valley are but seven miles
from Otsego lake.
Capt. Cooper has always a large fieet of sail and row-boats ;
Captain Boden— son of the old Commodore of the lake — has another
fleet, and the " Mary Boden," a small steamer ; all of which fur
nish abundant facilities for parties large or small, enjoying the
lake and its shores at any moment. Messrs. Thayer & Tunnicliffe
have acquired a reputation for their fish dinners, at the three and
five mile pnints on the west side.

132 THE tourist's guide.
Access to Cooperstown.
In connection with the above, it may be stated that Cooperstown
is reached from Albany or Binghamton in about four hours, twice
daily, by rail ; and from Utica and New York Central railroad on
the north, by railroad to Richfield Springs, thence by stage and
steamer to Cooperstown in about four hours.
Cooperstown Improvement Association.
This society, which includes Judge Nelson of the U. S. Supreme
Court, and all the most prominent citizens, is doing much to
increase and develop the attractions of this village and vicinity. Its
several Committees have in charge the increase and extension of
varieties of the lake fish ; the improvement and beautifying of
points of prospect on the lake and hills, paths, drives, &c. ;
developing sulphur springs ; planting of trees ; prevention of
nuisances, &c.
Besides several elegant residences now in progress, an Episcopal
Orphan Asylum of tasteful design, in brick, is to be erected in 1872,
on a commanding mound in the south west part of the town. A
Hygienic Resort, to furnish an attractive home for invalids and
seekers of health, is also in contemplation. The Otsego Co. Agri
cultural Society will soon improve their beautiful site on the
Susquehanna, half a mile south of the village. Much building and
improvement have been and are going on in this south west por
tion of the town.
Future Improvements.
The Air-line railroad connecting New York and Ogdensburgh on
the Canada line, now two-thirds built, passes through Cooperstown
and will shorten the distance to New York nearly on-B hundred

THE tourist's GUIDE. 133
miles. The inhabitants of Fort Plain and vicinity on the New
York Central railroad, also contemplate connexion with Cooperstown
by rail.
The head-waters of the Susquehanna River, at Cooperstown, and
numerous smaller streams, offer convenient water-power for manu
factories here ; while the division of several large farms adjoining
the village into building plats of every variety, favors the erection
of residences, business depots or factories. For the latter, sites
are now in market on the railroad and river ; and these lands are
now in so many different hands, as to insure a healthful competi
tion in prices.
On several eligible sites, tasteful cottages are to be erected and
furnished, in 1872, for summer rent. As living in Cooperstown
has not yet reached the high prices of other summer resorts, those
who would consult economy in their pursuit of health and fine
scenery, will be comparatively well suited here.
The New York Home Journal says of Cooperstown: " Lying in
what may justly be termed the Paradise of Central New York, its
locality is unsurpassed for the beauty of its scenery and the health-
fulness of its climate. Otsego Lake, for picturesque surroundings
and historical interest attaching thereto, equals Lake George."

VIII.

|ROY is a lively, bustling city, with plenty of enter-
j)rise and fashion within its limits. This Trojan city
likes to boast, and it can justly do so, that it is ahead
of Albany in certain respects, while Albany pursues
the " even tenor of her way," without much concern as
to what Troy may be about.
The two cities differ as widely in many aspects as
they could do if they were separated by miles of land and sea.
But comparisons are always odious, often invidious. Let us have
none of them ! The cherry should not be underrated because
grapes are with some a favorite fruit — nor the elm tree of our own
soil be disparaged by those who sit in the shade of the chestnuts
of the Buckeye State. Troy has large manufacturing interests.
It has a population of nearly fifty thousand souls. It has
residences in which style and luxury are most pleasingly blended
with the charms of refined homes.
It is overlooked upon the east side by classic Mount Ida, and
upon the north by the barren heights of Mount Olympus, two

THE tourist's GUIDE. 136
hundred feet high. There are country seats upon Mount Ida
which command a view of ten towns in several different counties.
The Episcopal churches of St. Paul and St. John are fine speci
mens of church architecture. Since 1821, Mrs. Willard^ School
has added to the prestige of Troy. Here the Davidson sisters
attended. Here was gathered the first class of young ladies ever
instructed in the higher mathematics in this country. This was the
pioneer young Ladies' Seminary of the land.
The Sorosis soon after the decease of Mrs. Willard appointed a
oomm'ittee to carry out a plan of an Emma Willard Fund, in me
mory of Madame Emma Willard, the educator and friend of her
sex. The fund to be applied to providing a perpetual scholarship
for some needy but meritorious young girl in an institution selected
and approved by Sorosis. An admirable memorial truly — but as
far as we can learn it has been only projected.
Oakwood and Mount Ida Cemeteries are worthy of a visit. In
Oakwood upon the Sth of April, 1870, were deposited the mortal
remains of General George H. Thomas. A ribbon of immortelles
and wreaths of ivy had been twined around the edge of the casket
in California, and went with it in the grave. His widow still
resides in Troy. It was by her request that no panegyrie or eulogy
was pronounced over the coffined form of the indomitable soldier
who onee kept " pounding away " at Chickamauga.
West Troy is the seat of a large United States Arsenal. More
than thirty buildings are located here, in grounds which comprise
one hundred acres. West Troy is also noted for its Bell Foundries
and other manufactures.
The Falls at Cohoes are very beautiful. The Erie canal rises
by a series of eighteen locks from the Hudson river, through the

136 THE tourist's guide.
city of Cohoes, to the northerly part of the town of Watervliet, at
which point it crosses the river in a magnificent stone aqueduct.
The products of the manufacturing interests of Cohoes amount to
more than two million dollars annually. In recent excavations
made in the rocky banks of the Mohawk, the fossil remains were
discovered of a gigantic Mastodon. A liberal public spirit prompted
its presentation to the State collection at Albany.

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad. — Under this
name are associated six different Railway Companies, all under one
control and management. These associated roads form portions of
the great direct through routes from New York to Montreal, by the
way of the valleys of the Hudson river and Lake Champlain. This
route also forms the avenue to the pOpular watering places of
Ballston, Saratoga and Lake George, and is the great thoroughfare
of summer pleasure travel.
At Round Lake upon the Saratoga road, about forty acres of
ground are held as the property of the Round Lake Camp-Meeting
Association, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, Troy Conference
— which was incorporated about two years ago by the State Legis
lature. Delegates from the conferences of twenty-eight States of
the Union met here last summer, and at one church service the
immediate audience numbered eight thousand persone. The sermon
was delivered by the eminent Bishop Simpson, and well might one
worthy brother exclaim — as he was heard to do — ' ' if we could not
all hear, we could all shout Amen ! "
Ballston Spa has been long noted for its springs. A log-
house for the accommodation of invalids was erected here in 1792
by Benajah Douglas, the grandfather of the late Hon. Stephen A.

:^'^^>4;'-V.'

'. »
I • I
hi.
«¦¦ - ; "V
.^ . » ..
til*, -

li .'

^*Jl^^V

TABLE ROCK FALLS
AnovE Tkoy, on the Hudson.
THE tourist's GUIDE. 137
Douglas, but of late years Saratoga has greatly overshadowed
Ballston. Saratoga. — We arrive here — with the multitude — at last.
' There are here really a half dozen different Saratogas, and each
one attracts its own " set." Here, young men come with " fast "
teams and a keen interest in pretty faces and — the races. Hither
wend the fop and the flirt, whose paradise is the ball-room ; this
realm is ruled by the millionaire and the managing mother. Then
too there is a Saratoga of the sportsman. Also a Saratoga of the
invalid. Outside of all these Saratogas, there is still another, which
attracts thousands of sensible, healthy, but busy and overworked
people, who come here every year for genuine recreation.
" The time to come," says a correspondent of the Evening Post,
" is early in June. With an average of say six waiters to each
guest, there is a certainty of getting something to eat, and the
dinners daily offered at the best hotels are by no means to be dis-
pised ; horse hire is at least one-third cheaper than it will be ten
days from now ; the small but beautiful parks are not yet thronged,
and there is plenty of elbow-room on the broad piazzas of the hotels.
One need not wait now for water at the springs ; the willing and
nearly idle boy has filled the tumblers before the drinkers have
fairly entered the enclosure. A party of four or five can almost
monopolize any one of the three hotels at the lake for the whole
afternoon. In short, Saratoga, its springs, its hotels, its waiters,
its livery establishments, everything that can contribute to the
comfort and convenience of the pleasure seekers, is for a time, wholly
the property of the few who are already here. This is the picture
upon the third of June ! How will it be on July third ? "
But to most people Saratoga without its crowds would be divested

138 THE tourist's guide.
of more than half its charms. Saratoga is a social exchange. It
is a place for pleasure — a perpetual festival.
It is estimated — so says an exchange — that the visitors at Sara
toga expend about an average of twenty million of dollars annually !
The local population is about nine thousand, while in summer one
thousand visitors a day oftentimes " enter into possession."
In all the hotels and private boarding houses collectively there
are not far from seven thousand eight hundred rooms. The amount
of provisions consumed by the occupants of these rooms is something
marvelous, and we cannot spare room for details ; but it may be
interesting to know that at one single hotel, last season, two millions
of tooth-picks were — used up I
More than thirty mineral springs attract summer guests, and
establish the reputation of Saratoga as one of the most famous
watering places of the world.'
It has been suggested that the Pool of Bethesda was the first
mineral spring whose virtues are recorded.
It is certain that the Greeks used mineral waters for drinking as
well as for bathing ; and the luxurious Romans were accustomed to
spend their summer months at the once famous watering place of
Baise, where a mild climate, a sheltered cOast, and delightful
scenery combined their attractions with those of the waters whose
healing powers had then a world-wide celebrity. In the old world,
the springs of Harrowgate, Cheltenham, and Bath in England,
Seidlitz in Bohemia, Spa in Belgium, Baden-Baden and Seltzer in
Germany, and Aix-la-Chapelle in Rhenish Prussia, while they are
of very ancient renown, are at this day annually resorted to by
thousands of fashionable and wealthy pleasure seekers, as well as
by invalids of almost every description.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 139
The High Rock is the oldest and most famous spring in Saratoga.
It was the Bethesda of the Indians, and by them used and regarded
with superstitious reverence, long before a white man tasted its
waters. It is believed to have been the' flrst spring to attract the
attention of the Indian hunters^ — it was also the first of which they
spoke in praise to the white pioneers.
The water has built a curb for itself, the foundations of which
must have been laid when the Continent was in its infancy. The
water being impregnated with particles of mineral substances, pro
bably at first saturated the ground about the outlet of the spring.
As it evaporated, a species of rock was formed by the commingling
of earth and mineral ; successive though almost imperceptible
deposits overlaid this formation, and in the course of ages the foun
dation of pure mineral substances was laid ; and the water continu
ing to flow over its surface, gradually built up the present
phenomena of nature.
It is said that the first white man who used these waters was Sir
William Johnson, who was brought through the wilderness which
then surrounded Saratoga on a litter, and remained drinking the
water for a few weeks, when he was able to walk away without
assistance. This is the first recorded instance of the thousands of
well authenticated cures effected by the waters of Saratoga.
There is an Indian tradition that many years ago the water
ceased to flow over the rock, owing to the displeasure of the Great
Spirit. The water, however, remained within reach from the top,
and the overflow probably found a way of escape through cracks
which eventually have been stopped by deposits from the water.
Man, however, took it upon himself to assist nature, and in 1866
an excavation was made below the rock. Immediately under the

140

THE TOURIST S GUIDE.

rock was a tree-trunk eighteen inches in diameter, still preserving
its shape, but not very firm in its texture. Directly below the
outlet was a cavity some ten feet deep, in which were found a large
number of tumblers, cups, etc., which had, in the course of years,
slipped from careless hands and been lost. The water was traced
to the point at which it issued from the solid rock, tubes were set
to bring it pure from its source, and now the High Rock is a
favorite resort for visitors. The bottling-houses near by contain
the usual apparatus for preparing the water for foreign markets.
By connoisseurs in the mineral waters of Saratoga, it is often
and, we believe, truthfully stated, that the High Rock Spring
water is less injured or affected by bottling than the generality of
the waters at Saratoga. Analysis sustains this recommendation,
by proving it to contain a large proportion oi fixed carbonic acid
gas. The recent tubing, which is about ten feet south of the old
spring, has greatly improved its quality. It is bottled and sent
everywhere. Upon the Pacific railroad, as well as upon our East
ern roads, boys go through the trains shouting : " 'Ere's your cele
brated High Rook Water ! " It is sold equally in San Francisco
and in cities nearer home.
Deposits of mineral matter similar to the calcareous tufa, which
constitutes High Rock, have been found at the surfaces of other
springs, but this —

is the great specimen.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 141
The following are the dimensions of the rock : Circumference,
twenty-four feet four inches ; height, three feet six inches ; diame
ter of aperture, four inches — below the top, one foot; weight,
about eight tons.
The rock is a hollow cone or pyramid, whose walls are of nearly
even thickness. More than one footstep is pointed out upon its
side — a curious circumstance which tends to prove the theory which
has been advanced by scientific men as to its formation.
Of the genuineness of this rook there can be no doubt. Thou
sands of years were necessary for its formation, which can be traced
by the rings or circles of deposit marking each year.
The proprietors of the High Rook Spring have issued a very
interesting pamphlet, containing a full account of the High Rock,
and a history of the spring.
There are other wonders for us to examine, and we must pass
on, commending the little work to which we refer, to our readers.
It may be obtained, free of charge, at the spring, or will be sent
by mail to those who address the High Rock Spring Company.
In 1868, a fine pavilion was erected over the spring at a cost of
five thousand dollars.
South of the High Rock, is the Seltzer Spring. Our worthy
German citizens rejoice in this spring, the water of which is almost
identical with that of the famous Nassau Spring, in Germany.
The Saratoga Star Spring is a few rods north of the High Rock.
The recent inventions of Mr. Putnam, the Superintendent of the
Company, for bottling the water, are attracting much attention.
These improvements are not yet fully developed, and will, it is
anticipated, in a little time completely revolutionize the time-
honored processes of bottling which are now in vogue.

142

THE tourist's GUIDE.

The Empire Spring is a few rods above the Star Spring, but
contains a less quantity of mineral constituents.
The Red Spring is near the Empire. It is more than a century
old, and of acknowledged medicinal value, which has not been
properly appreciated till recently.
The Excelsior Spring is about one mile northeast of the village
and the springs just mentioned. It is a
' ' Fountain
In a vaUey,"

with pleasant scenery and fine woods for a surrounding.
The water of the Excelsior Spring is thought to be fully equal
to any water in Saratoga.
It flows directly from the primeval rock (through a tubing fifty-
six feet in depth), and is thus obtained of great purity and excel
lence, and with a very large amount of carboni* acid gas, rendering
it a most agreeable water to the taste, and increasing its efficiency.
The medicinal agents which it contains are held in such perfect
solution, that the water will remain clear and free from sediment
or deposit in any climate.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 143
For shipping, the Excelsior Spring water is conveyed into reser
voirs, by its own hydrostatic pressure, thus retaining the full amount
of carbonic acid gas which exists in the water naturally.
The Excelsior water is then shipped from Saratoga in these gas-
tight reservoirs, lined with pure block-tin, and is forced out from
them precisely as it flows from the spring, without charging it with
gas. In the immediate vicinity of the Excelsior are the Ten Springs,
of which we shall doubtless hear more some day. They are unde
veloped as yet. Hathorn Spring is on Spring street, just above
Congress Hall. H. H. Hathorn is the proprietor.
This spring has the most central location of any in Saratoga. It
was discovered and tubed in 1868. It is very similar to the old
and well known Congress water, but is now considered superior
to it.
Congress Spring is in Congress Park, on Congress street. It is
famous as one of the oldest springs of Saratoga.
Columbian Spring is also in Congress Park. It is a strong
tonic, and if taken too freely is apt to win for the Columbian, the
title of " The Headache Spring."
The Pavilion Spring commands a wide popularity. It is in a
central location, only a few steps from the business portion of the
village and from the principal hotels. Although discovered at an
earlier day, it was not tubed till 1839. Its waters are having an
extended sale.
The United States. Spring is a comparatively new spring near the
Pavilion. The Hamilton is near the Hathorn. Washington
Spring is in the grounds of the Clarendon Hotel on South Broad
way. It is sometimes called the Champagne Spring, on account of

144 THE tourist's guide.
its sparkling properties. This is one of the most pleasant waters of
Saratoga and is a superior tonic. The grounds in this vicinity are
fine, and during the season are thronged with the beauty and fashion
of Saratoga. ^
In the same grounds and within a few rods, is the Leland
Spring, named in honor of the genial proprietor of the Clarendon.
The Crystal Spring is in Park Place, Broadway. C. R. Brown,
proprietor. This spring was discovered and tubed in 1870, since
which time it has become widely known.
Eureka Spring and the famous White Sulphur, are situated on
Spring avenue a mile and a-half distant. The latter is considered
the finest sulphur spring in the State.
The Geyser or Spouting Spring must complete our list, which is
surely long enough, of the principal and popular waters of this
summer resort.
The Geyser or Spouting Spring was discovered in February
1870. There had been indications of mineral springs in this neigh
borhood for a long time ere its present proprietors decided to bore
for a spring. Reaching a point one hundred and forty feet below
the surface rock they struck the mineral vein. The water instantly
burst forth, establishing the phenomena of a Spouting Spring.
As the water is drawn from the spring, it foams like soda water,
and is of a temperature only fourteen degrees removed from the
freezing point.
The Geyser is located nearly two miles from the village upon
the Ballston road.
At Saratoga it is the rule to drink a quantity of the waters before
breakfast in the morning. Some people, however, seem to have no
idea of the propriety of limiting themselves at all, but exhibit a

THE tourist's GUIDE. 145
camel-like capability of drinking as much in one day as should be
a whole week's supply. Six glasses half-a-dozen times a day is
rather too much even of a good thing.
The leading hotels of Saratoga are well known. The superb
Congress — the magnificent Grand Union — which will accommodate
more guests than any other in the world, except one — -the enjoyable
and more select Clarendon, with its Washington spring, and its
grounds lighted with gas.
The fame of Saratoga as a watering place is probably fully
equalled by its reputation as a health resort. In the latter point
of view its advantages are not merely its wonderful " Great
Medicine Waters," but its climate is peculiarly salubrious. Upon
the north and west the Kayaderosseras mountain affords protection
and shelter, and the Green mountain range on the east, with the
Catskills on the south, form a mountain bulwark around the place
to shield it from the cold and strong " wind and tempest."
Thither come the pilgrims who seek not the Fountain of Youth,
but the Fountain of Health. For many years " Doctor Bedortha's
Water Cure" was widely known as the only Remedial Institute in
the place. Many New York families sent their invalid members
here. Noted people from all parts of the country made the " water
cure " their Saratoga home. There are now other establishments
of a similar nature, but Doctor Bedortha is still at his post. His
establishment is in connection with the Park Place hotel, where a
magnificent building is projected and partly built. It is expected
that visitors in 1872 will see these plans fully carried out. Mean
while Doctor Bedortha's Water Cure is patronized by large numbers
from all parts of the country, and has a wide-spread name. The
rooms to be found here are as airy and eligible as any in Saratoga,
and the Crystal Spring is upon the grounds of the establishment.
10

146 THE tourist's GUIDE.
The Crescent Hotel, under the management of Doctor Hamilton,
is a favorite resort in Saratoga. Although a medical institute is
connected with it, it is entirely free from any objections that may
be supposed to pertain to such, but is rendered more desirable
thereby. Doctor Hamilton is also widely known as a skillful and
successful physician.
Aside from the larger houses, Saratoga abounds in small hotels
and private boarding places — it must be remembered, however,
that a hotel of small accommodations at Saratoga would be con-
sidered large, almost anywhere else. There are buildings here
which have received from seven to nine alterations and additions, and
still the work goes on and the people cry — more, more, more room.
In fact the suburbs of some of the older houses cover much more
ground than the original structures. Cupid is a presiding officer
at Saratoga. Many a " Diamond " wedding has been celebrated
of which a Saratoga engagement was the avant-courier. Among
other matrimonial incidents of note, it is said by gossip that the
acquaintance of Commodore Vanderbilt with his present wife, com
menced at Saratoga, and that very naturally the bridal party
turned their faces Saratogaward immediately after the marriage
ceremony. The most fashionable drive is the new boulevard to the lake.
This drive is four miles in length, with a row of trees on each
side and one in the middle. Carriages pass down on one side and
return on the other. For a long time it has been the principal
drive in Saratoga, but until recently there have been few attrac
tions besides the gay and brilliant stream of carriages with their
fair occupants and superb horses. Since last season immense sums
of money have been expended on the avenues and roads in the
vicinity of Saratoga, and this new boulevard is a magnificent drive.

THB tourist's GUIDE. 147
Moon's Lake House, upon a bluff fifty feet above the lake, is
one of the resources of Saratoga. Its specialty is Fried Potatoes,
and they are prime — are sold in papers, like confectionery.
Chapman's Hill, Wagman's Hill and Hagerty Hill, all afford
fine views of the country. About a mile above Congress Hall, the
half-mile track and the handsome grounds of Glen Mitchel are
located. Bemis Heights, the Saratoga battle-ground, are about fifteen
miles distant, in Stillwater. Here occurred the famous engage
ment between Burgoyne and General Gates ; and thousands annu
ally stroll over, and moralize and flirt, upon the " Old Camp-
Ground. The most extended view and the boldest landscape may be seen
from Waring Hill, upon the Mouiit Pleasant road, fifteen miles
from Saratoga.
As the Press of the country has teemed with accounts of the
splendors of Morrissey's Club House in Saratoga, we wish to cor
rect some of the false impressions which are afloat concerning it.
We copy and present below a reliable statement of this establish
ment, from the pen of Mr. R. F. Dearborn, the admirable Saratoga
Correspondent of Our Society and other publications.
" Few are the journals of city or country," says Mr. Dearborn,
that have not contained some notice or account of Morrissey's
Club House. It has become one of the first objects to which the
attention of visitors is attracted. A very exaggerated idea of its
magnificence has been excited by so much talk and the glowing
accounts of the peiiny-a-liners. For instance, we were told that
one of the ' very finest ' oil paintings in the country adorned its
walls ; but when we came to investigate, we learned that the
expense of this ' magnificent work of art ' amounted to about

148 THE tourist's guide.
three thousand five hundred dollars. We concluded that either
Mr. M. was exceedingly shrewd in purchasing, or else the finest
paintings were at a discount.
" The building is very substantial, and is well furnished. That
its furnishings are superior or equal to the first-class residences of
our cities, is by no means true. During the past winter a large
addition has been made to it, the main object of which, it is said,
is for the selling of pools for the races. This is by far the finest
part of the building.
" The case of the Young Men's Christian Association vs. Mor
rissey remains yet undecided, but that Association closed three
other establishments for the same purpose. During the winter and
spring, such efforts have been made by leading citizens to restrain,
within proper bounds, the vices and crimes incident to any fashion
able resort, that it may be hoped that Saratoga will become the
most moral, as it is now the most celebrated watering-place in the
world. Large numbers of the most highly cultivated, as well as
the most wealthy people are among the summer residents of Sara
toga, and a majority of its citizens will sustain this action for the
suppression of open vice."
Guests who tarry late in the season at Saratoga, are well
rewarded by autumnal sunsets, which are cold and gorgeous like
the splendor of October woods. But as clouds dim the waving of
golden grain, so a shade of melancholy touches those who go away
when the last polka is polked — the last light in the last ball-room
is extinguished, and the summer ended.
But we are not of those who tarry for September lights to crown
the purple hills of the horizon. We have but lingered here a day,
and before us lie the shores of Lake George and the grand expanse
of the mighty Wilderness.

IX.

qAKE GEORGE may be reached by more than one
route, but there is an inevitable stage ride of nine
miles to be encountered or enjoyed — according to the
temperament of the traveler. Of the trip to Lake
George via the Adirondack railway, we shall speak
hereafter. We shall follow now the usual track of
those who visit Lake George only.
This is from Saratoga to Glen's Falls by railroad, changing cars
at Fort Edward. Upon the old stage road from Fort Edward to
Sandy Hill, until 1852, there stood a majestic pine-tree. In 1848,
it was said by one who saw it, that an unaccountable decay had
stripped it of its emerald robe, and left it standing, spectre-like, on
the border of a woody glen. Its top had been broken off by a
November gale, and its more delicate branches were falling at the
touch of every breeze. Upon its huge trunk, full fifteen feet in cir
cumference, was carved in bold letters —
"JAKE M'Ckea, 1777."
It stood on the brow of a slope covered with shrubbery and small
trees, at the foot of which bubbled a clear and copious fountain

150 THE tourist's GUIDE.
called " The Jane M'Crea Spring." The hollow was called " The
Jane M'Crea Glen." The name of the damsel seemed to be audible
in the rustle of every leaf, in the chirp of every grasshopper, and in
the note of every bird in that charmed and charming spot. It is
interwoven with the poetry, the romance, and the history of the
country in a sad story, which that pine-tree for fifty years com
memorated, and then fell into decay. At last it bowed before the
woodman's axe, in anticipation of being laid prone by some fierce
storm. The story of Jane M'Crea is an old, and oft-told tale, but there
are always a new generation of readers who are interested in its
repetition. She was the young and lovely daughter of a Scotch clergyman in
New Jersey. After his death she took up her abode with her
brother, near Fort Edward. A neighbor's son became her accepted
lover. The old war for independence was then raging. He was a
loyalist, and was in the army of Burgoyne when, in the summer of
1777, it came sweeping victoriously from Lake Champlain to the
Hudson. Jenny, as Miss M'Crea was called, visited a loyalist
friend at Fort Edward, where she heard of the approach of the
of the British, hoping to see her lover. But painted savages pre
ceded the army. Early one morning a party of them rushed from
the woods, seized Jenny and her friend, and started with them up
the road toward Sandy Hill. Jenny was light and slender; her
friend was a heavy, corpulent woman. The report of Indians near,
soon reached the fort, and a detachment was sent out to confront
them. The Indians were just making off with their prisoners, having
Jenny on horseback, and her corpulent friend between two stalwart
savages. The soldiers fired several volleys, but the Indians escaped
unhurt. Not so the fair prisoner. A bullet intended for her
captor killed the poor girl.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 151
. She fell to the ground near the spring, below the great pine-tree,
and expired. The savages immediately scalped her, and carried
her long black tresses in triumph to the camp of Burgoyne, to
receive the usual reward for such trophies.
The bereaved lover purchased the beautiful locks of his betrothed,
deserted from the army, and retired to Canada, where he lived to
be an old man. He never recovered from the shook of that sad
event, lie had always been gay and garrulous ; ever afterwards
he was melancholy and taciturn. He never married ; avoided
society ; and at the close of every July, near the time of the anni
versary of his bereavement, he would shut himself in his room for
several days, and refuse to see even his most intimate friends.
Such was the tragedy that caused the stately pine, to be called
The Jane M'Crea Tree.
The grave of Jane M'Crea may be seen in the Union Cemetery,
at Fort Edward.
Glen's Falls is an exceedingly pretty village. A very fine
" Soldier's Monument " was erected here a year or two ago. The
passage of the river here is through a rude ravine, in a mad descent
of seventy-five feet, over a rocky precipice of nine hundred feet in
length. In this vicinity were laid some of the scenes in Cooper's
famous " Last of the Mohicans."
From Glen's Falls to Lake George is a fine ride of nine miles.
Three coaches await the arrival of the train, and give promise of
ample accommodation. Alas, for our expectations ! All the passen
gers bound to Lake George are packed into and upon a single coach,
until there is not an inch of room to spare, and trunks upon trunks
are fastened behind. The drive to Caldwell is said to be charm
ing' — in scenery — and so it is ; but if tourists are liable to be
packed like sardines in a box, we recommend — until the railroad is

152 THE tourist's guide.
extended — purchasing tickets to Glen's Falls only, and taking a
private carriage thence to the Lake.
Within four miles of Lake George the road winds past a dark
glen which conceals from view the Bloody Pond. Near it is a
stern-loOking old boulder, remembered in history as William's
Rock. Here Colonel Williams was slain in 1775, in an engage
ment with the French and Indians. The hosts of the slain in this
battle were cast into the waters, which have since been known by
the name of Bloody Pond. It is now quiet enough, with the lily
pads floating like emerald ornaments upon its bosom.
Our destination is Caldwell, and the scenery through which we
pass, diversified by running streams, and ever changing landscapes
of mountain, plain and valley, almost reconciles us to the dusty
road, and to the fact that twelve passengers are inside the stage
and nearly as many more on top.
Caldwell was for many years but a hamlet at the southern end
of the lake. It is named from an eccentric gentleman — illiberal
obstinacy is always posthumously beatified into eccentricity — who
owned the whole region, built a hotel on the wrong spot, deter
mined that no one else should build anywhere, and ardently desired
that no more people should settle in the neighborhood ; and in
general, infested the southern shore with a success worthy of a
mythological dragon.
Lake George is a mountain lake of extreme beauty, upon the
verge of the wilderness. You ascend from its banks westward and
plunge into a wild region. The hills that frame the water are low,
and when not bare — for fires frequently consume many miles of
woodland on the hillsides — are covered with the stifly outlined,
dark and cold foliage of evergreens. Among these are no signs of
life. You may well fancy the populace of the primeval forest yet

THE tourist's GUIDE. 153
holding these retreats. You may well dream in the twilight that
it were not impossible to catch the ring of a French or English
rifle, or the wild whoop of an Indian ; sure that the landscape you
see, is the same that was seen by them and their remote ancestors.
Lake George is a strange lull in excitement after Saratoga.
To be sure, there are gay belles here, and the prices at the Fort
William Henry Hotel are equal to any in the land. Nevertheless
its tranquillity is something like the morning after a ball. There
is nothing but to croquet or sit on the piazza, or go boating or
fishing upon the lake. It is a good place to study fancy fishermen
who have taken their degrees in Wall street or Fifth Avenue.
" Most of the visitors are guests of a day, but there are also pleas
ant parties — poets and painters often — who pass weeks at the lake
or at one of the private houses near. These lovers of Lake George
listen to enthusiastic stories of Saratoga as incredulously as to
Syren-songs. To them Saratoga is but a name and a vapor,
incredible as the fervor of a tropical day to the Russian Empress,
in her icy palace. These are parties of a character rare in our
country, who do not utterly surrender the summer to luxurious
idleness, but steal honey from the fiowers as they fly." This
tribute to those who " Come early, and linger late "
upon the shores of Lake George, is uttered by George William
Curtis who " never says a thing amiss," and its justice will be
recognized by all who have themselves, been more than the guests
of a day. The Indian name for Lake George was Horicon. It is
far more melodious than its prosaic modern name.
Here Fort William Henry, upon the southern shore of Lake
George, once guarded the possessions of England — while Carillon or
Ticonderoga upon Lake Champlain secured the dominion of France

151 THE tourist's GUIDE.
in the magnificent province of Canada, which was justly regarded
as the most illustrious jewel of the French empire.
" These two forts," says a recent historical writer, " stand vener
able in their ruins at either gateway of Lake George, monuments
of a heroic age and of the wrestlings of giants for the possession of
a continent. To-day the shores of Horicon furnish fashionable
resorts for the refined or the curious, who bask away the summer
hours, perhaps careless or ignorant of the great events which once
transpired beneath their feet or within their vision. Yet the
possession of these places has engaged the attention of Kings, Cabi
nets and Parliaments. The best blood of great nations has
been freely spent, and millions of treasure lavished, for their con
quest and defence.
"Armies have crossed the ocean, tribes of red men have been
marshalled by civilized genius, rival and foreign flags have all met
here. Carnage, the butchery of the tomahawk, the wasting of a
siege, the wretchedness of woman have all been known. The feast
of human flesh has been prepared, and the soft voice of the Jesuit
Priest heard here.
" Protestant and Catholic, English and French, white and red
men, the cannon and the scalping knife, extremes the most oppo
site, passions the most violent, have met, and struggled here for
the mastery.
"All, all are gone now. From out the ashes a third power has
arisen, to which the Red Cross of England and the Lily of France
are alike indifferent. From mountain to mountain, the American
Eacle utters the scream of Liberty."
Fort William Henry Hotel stands upon the site of the old fort
of that name. It is a fine excursion by the steamer Minnehaha to
the landing near the village of Ticonderoga, four miles from the

THE tourist's GUIDE. 155
venerable ruins of Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain. Parties
can go and return in one day.
Lake George is thirty-six miles in length. Its boat-boys count
its islands by the days of the year, and tell you of three hundred
and sixty-five. It is a story agreeable enough to hear the first
time, but rather wearisome ere it falls on your ear for the last
time. Diamond Isle, Long Island and Doom, or Fourteen Mile Island,
are the most noticeable of the islands. By the way, somebody
counted last year, and declares that Lake George has really only
two hundred and ninety-five of these little bits of land which rise
up fresh, green and, as it were, clean-cut from out of the trans
parent depths ; some quite large, others mere dots, but every one
beautiful. The towering peaks of the Black Mountains encircle
the lake, their wild heights rendering the landscape most pic
turesque. Excursions are made from Caldwell daily in the trim Ganouskie
— a saucy little craft built on the lake. One of the best of these
trips is ' to Northwest Bay, to Bolton Landing, and to Trout
Pavilion, four miles from Bolton. The best fishing in the lake is
to be found here.
Upon the east side of the bay, Tongue Mountain comes in,
literally, into the lake. Passing Tongue Mountain, we enter the
Narrows at the base of the loftiest and boldest heights which
environ Lake George. The water is here four hundred feet deep,
and wonderfully clear and sparkling.
While at Ticonderoga, we, however, will avail ourselves of a
roomy and comfortable stage, and ride over a rough and romantic
road to Fort Ticonderocfa.

156 THE tourist's guide.
It appears to be a part of the regular programme, when in sight
of " Old Fort Ti," for the agent of the route, mounted on the
wheel of one coach, to deliver a pithy little address, which causes
great merriment, while the passengers gaze at the ruins.
By this route we follow the wild and joyous course by which
Horicon reaches Lake Champlain. Bold rapids and striking cas
cades characterize its passage.
Lake Champlain lies between Vermont and New York. It
is ninety miles in length, and its width varies from one-fourth of a
mile to fourteen miles.
The steamers upon Lake Champlain are very elegant and com
modious, but an excursion upon its waters forms a curious contrast
to the trip on Lake George. The scenery is fine ; the Green
Mountains appear in the distance on the left, the Black range on
the right ; rugged cliffs sometimes loom up on either side, and
then low, irregular border-lines appear ; but the water has none of
that peculiar clearness which marks the other lake. Flags, rushes,
trees and bushes grow up lawlessly in the very midst of it — all the
more noticeable after one has just viewed the chiseled borders of
that silvery sheet which in olden times was called " Horicon."
Ticonderoga was the first stronghold taken by us from the
British in the Revolution. Here Ethan Allen with his Green
Mountain Boys penetrated to the very bedside of the English
Commander and demanded his surrender.
" In whose name and to whom ?" demanded the astonished
officer. " In the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Con
gress," thundered the intrepid Allen, and the fort was surrendered.
Mount Independence lies in Vermont, opposite Ticonderoga,
about one mile distant.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 157
Crown Point is the site of old Fort St. Frederick, erected by
the French in 1731. It was Lord Pitt who ordered in 1758, upon
its capture by the English, that Fort St. Frederick should be
rebuilt and enlarged, and known in the future as Crown Point.
Although never completed, this fort is said to have cost the
English government more than two million of pounds sterling.
The ramparts were about twenty-five feet thick and nearly the
same in height and were built of solid masonry. The whole circuit
was nearly nine hundred yards. A broad ditch surrounded the
work. On the north was a gate and from the northeast bastion
a covered way leading to the water. But the glory of Crown
Point has departed.
Passing on beyond Port Henry and West Port, we reach Port
Kent, sixty-six miles from Ticonderoga, ninety miles from White
hall, three hundred and thirteen from New York, and are now at
what is generally considered one of the very best gates, by which
the Tourist may enter the Adirondacks.
We doubt if any one, bound for the wilderness, — with the
delightful prospect of camping out before them, and with new fishing
rods, and " flies " amid their baggage, which they long to make
trial of, as the school boy who has had his jack-knife confiscated
by the teacher, longs for recess and its restoration — can truly enjoy
this trip after Lake George is left behind, and ere the Adirondacks
are entered. It may be pleasant and interesting to view the
scenery upon the shores of Lake Champlain, but who will drink
cold tea with zest, when a more cheering draught may be in a
little time secured ?
Do not be affronted, ye who love the green shores and placid
waters of Lake Champlain, by this comparison, which may seem to
you so ill chosen ! We mean simply to imply, that, with the

158 THE tourist's guide.
excitement of a prospective trip to the Adirondack region, thrilling
through the monotone of everyday life — more quiet joys seem
tame in comparison with those which are promised by fancy and
imagination. And nowj gracious reader, before we enter the wilderness — we
assume that you are gracious, because you have thus far borne us
company — let a word be said in your ear respecting the guise in
which you are invited to journey over a tract of country as large
as the whole State of Connecticut, and the experiences which await
you there.
An enthusiast says, that none should visit the wilderness who have
not dreamed of the trip as prisoners dream of freedom ! A more
prosaic person advises " those who love good fishing, clear, fresh air,
and delightful scenery, and honest sport, to visit the Adirondack
region. But if a man trembles at the song of a mosquito, or the
sight of a black fly, or if he looks upon a visit to the country as a
business investment which will not pay unless he catches so many
fish for so many dollars, he had better put a pin-hook on a piece
of cord, and fish in his cistern."
It is our own opinion, dear reader, that if you have never been a
" Tom-Boy," either male or female, at some period in your career —
that you will never be of those who find the Adirondacks truly
enjoyable. If walnut furniture and spring beds are essential to
your comfort, you must look for comfort elsewhere, and especially
if you are one of the critics of that much abused volume, " Murray's
Adventures in the Wilderness " — we entreat you not to go thither.,
And here let us say one word in defense of that " sensation"
book, as it has been termed by hosts who were decoyed by its
fascinating pages into following Mr. Murray's track. The wild
breath of the wild woods pervades that volume. It is written by

THE tourist's GUIDE. 159
one who loves nature in her most primitive array — who loves sport
well enough to sacrifice for it all those advantages which money
will buy at Newport or Saratoga or Long Branch — will buy almost
anywhere except in the wilderness. The wilderness to him was all
that he represented it — to many "solid" men who cannot exist
without their morning paper and the city's hum and the postman's
call — to ladies who 77iust have white morning wrappers, point lace
shawls and Saratoga trunks — the Adirondack region is indeed a
waste a?id howling "Wilderness."
The daily life and the geography of that region are alike but
little known. A vague notion that the Adirondacks mean North
Elba, and that North Elba means John Brown's home, pervades the
mind of the city dame.
The city ?nan has visions of deer — herds of them within very
easy rifle range.
Possibly these good people ought not to be criticised for their
lack of information, when even Appletoii's Ha?tdbook of American
Travel for 1871 makes such very slight mention of the Adiron
dack Company's railroad, which is projected from Saratoga Springs
to Ogdensburgh, on the St. Lawrence river, passing through the
very heart of the Adirondack region. This road is already com
pleted to a point forty-nine miles distant from Saratoga, and five
miles beyond the " Glen." Work upon it is rapidly progressing.
Of this route, we shall speak anon.
There are five parallel mountain ranges known under the general
name of the Adirondacks, which traverse this portion of the State
in a northeasterly direction, terminating either at Lake Champlain
or in the plains of Canada.
The Adirondacks are really the eastern range only, but the
term is usually' applied to all. Some of the mountains are well

160 THE tourist's GUIDE.
known by name, as Whiteface, and Tahawas, which signifies in
Indian dialect, " He splits the sky."
The mountain region is upwards of one hundred miles in diame
ter. It is estimated that one thousand lakes, many of them as yet
unvisited, lie embedded in this vast forest of pine and hemlock.
Sixty-four lakes, ponds and rivers are said to be visible, without a
glass, from the summit of Whiteface.
Between two of the highest of the Adirondack Mountains, at
the bottom of a crevice a thousand feet or more in depth, preci
pice-walled and gloomy, lies Avalanche Lake, two thousand nine
hundred feet above tide-level. It is surmised by many, that this
lake and Lake Colden, at the south of it, were once one sheet, or
at least connected by a deep ravine. A slide, rolled down from
Mount Colden, closed the channel, threw back the waters, and the
lake, avalanche born, was formed. Last August, a furious storm
of wind and rain occurred among the Adirondacks. A visitor
reports, that during that storm a mighty avalanche rushed down
the side of Mount Colden, falling into Lake Avalanche, and
literally making a dam across it, and dividing it into two lakes.
Amidst many difficulties, he visited the wild spot soon after this
occurrence, while yet the dark waters were muddy from recent
disturbances, and the lake strewn with floating timber. It is pre
dicted, that after a few more mountain slides, Avalanche Lake will
become Avalanche Pass.
Telegraph lines now extend to the Adirondack region, and tele
graph offices will be found at the principal hotels.
A few years hence, and but a flavor of forest life will linger
around localities which are now little changed from the primeval
forest.

PRINCESS NOMENA.
See Chapter 14.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 161
The John Brown Tract is in the southerly and least interesting
portion of the North Woods. Yet the way thither from Keeseville
leads through the Wilmington Notch, a famous mountain pass, and
enables those who choose, to climb grand old Whiteface.
Port Kent is near the mouth of the Au Sable river, which,
between Port Kent and Keeseville, passes through a wonderful
chasm, forming what are known as the Walled Banks , of the
Au Sable river. The river plunges in hot haste over a precipice —
Birmingham Falls — seventy feet in height, and rushes for a dis
tance of two miles through a chasm which is in many places one
hundred and thirty feet deep — and again it is forced through a
channel only a few feet in width.
In 1859, while John Brown was on trial for his life at Harper's
Ferry — when some were calling him "madman," while some said
" saint " — a visitor to his desolate home thus recorded his impres
sions :
" The traveler into the enchanted land of the Adirondacks has
his choice of two routes from Keeseville to the lower Saranac Lake.
The one least frequented, and most difficult, has the grandest
mountain pass that the State can show. After driving over twenty-
two miles of mountain road, from Keeseville, past wild summits
bristling with stumps, and the villages where every other man is
black from the iron foundry, and every alternate one black from
the charcoal pit, your pathway makes a turn at the little hamlet of
Wilmington, and you flnd yourself facing a wall of mountain, with
only glimpses of the one, wild gap which you must penetrate. In
two miles more you have passed the last house this side the Notch,
and then drive on over a rugged way, with no companion but the
stream which ripples and roars below.
" Soon the last charcoal clearing is passed, thick woods of cedar
11

162 THE tourist's guide.
and birch close around you — Whiteface, the high mountain on
your right, comes nearer and nearer, and close upon your left are
glimpses of a wall, black and bare as iron, rising sheer for four
hundred feet above your head. Coming from the soft marble
country of Vermont, or the pale granite of Massachusetts, there
seems something weird and forbidding in this utter blackness.
" On your left, the giant wall now appears nearer, now retreats
again ; on your right foams the merry stream, breaking into grace
ful cascades — and across it the great mountain Whiteface, seamed
with slides. Now the woods upon your left are displaced by the
iron wall, almost touching the roadside ; against its steep abrupt
ness scarcely a shrub can cling, scarcely a fern flutter ; it takes
your breath away, but five miles of perilous driving conduct you
through it, and beyond this stern passway, this cave of iron, lie
the lovely lakes and mountains of the Adirondacks, and the home
stead of John Brown.
" The Notch seems beyond the world. North Elba and its
dozen houses is beyond the Notch, and there is a wilder little
mountain road, which seems to rise beyond North Elba. But the
house we seek is not even on that road, but behind it and beyond
it — you ride a mile or two — take down a pair of bars — beyond the
bars faith takes you across a half-cleared field, and you come out
on a clearing^ — there is a little frame house, unpainted, set in a
girdle of black stumps, with all heaven about it for a wider girdle
— on a high hillside — forests on the north and west — the glorious
line of the Adirondacks on the east, and on the south, one slender
road leading off to Westport — a road so straight, that you could
sight a United States marshal on it for five miles."
This was John Brown's home in 1859. But he had a wider
perspective than the Adirondacks, a perspective which embraced
universal freedom.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 163
Now the stages which run from Keeseville to the lower Saranac
Lake pass the deserted homestead of John Brown, with its granite
boulder, and his grave close by.
The Indian Pass in which the Hndson has its birth, may be
visited about seven miles north of North Elba.
There are comfortable hotels at the Lower Saranac, and the
traveler will find that many beside himself have been impelled in
spirit to come hither.
At this point Guides can be hired, and excursions planned, to
almost any desirable spot for sport. Fine scenery can be found
elsewhere — sport, rare sport, cannot.
The trips are made in long slender boats which admit the carry
ing of but very little baggage.
Deer are growing more plentiful in the woods — thanks to the
Game Laws — hut they are also growing wise. They know a rifle
afar, and, .always wary of their ememy man, by instinct, they are
also growing more so by education. But there are boat-loads of
glorious fish within the streams ; there are guides who are uncut
diamonds, and ilso guides who are like paste diamonds, with the
addition of an edge which will cut you. The only point upon
which the geneiality of travelers will not agree with Mr. Murray,
is that eoncerniag the black fly. He calls it a myth — almost. If
this be so, may the saints preserve us from encountering the black
fly in reality — cry the bitten.
In " Hints for Travelers," in one of the chapters of this volume,
an account is given of the best method or methods of managing
this enemy. He is a formidable one to most people.
To enjoy " camping out " to perfection, try it upon the southern
or western shore of Raquette Lake. You will find the lower
Saranac region an " old camp ground " in comparison.

164 THE tourist's guide.
From the Lower Saranac, the excursion seems to be to the Upper
Saranac Lakes. There are about a dozen in number. Above
these lies the great St. Regis Lake.
The whole region is rich in its charms for those only who love
nature better than fashion, and who can " rough it " a little for the
sake of health and sport.
From the Saranac region our way lies to Lake Pleasant by
intermediate waters and portages. A portage is a " carry " where
the tune in vogue is not " paddle your own canoe," but " carry
your own canoe." Truly, if you have been there, you will k?iow
how it is yoursef!
From Lake Pleasant a stage ride of thirty miles brings us to the
quiet town of Amsterdam upon the New York Central road, from
whence we can go west, or return to Albany.
The routes are legion. From Plattsburg by railway to Au Sable
station, opposite Point of Rocks ten miles above Keeseville, gives
the shortest stage ride.
By Lake Champlain and Port Kent to Keeseville, is also a
favorite route.
From Crown Point to Long Lake by stage, and thence by water
to the Saranac Lakes, is another mode of approach.
From Utica to Booneville, and thence by stage, is another. By
Central railroad to Amsterdam, and thence by stage, numbers one
more route.
From Saratoga to a point five miles beyond the Glen, lands the
traveler in a fine vicinity for sport, but the heart of the woods is
not yet reached, nor the best sport attainable.
Reader we wish for you, upon either of these trips — your heart's
desire, whatever it be — health, and wo mosquito bites !

'THE POOU WHERE THE BIG TROUT LIE.'

^^isrmmis^ ,^^

c~-&^\

'—%^

X.

I HE New York Central road traverses the entire length
of the Empire State from east to west. It has two
termini at the eastern end, one at Albany and the
other at Troy, the branches uniting, after seventeen
miles, at Schenectady.
It then continues in one line to Syracuse, one hun
dred and forty-eight miles from Albany, when it has
au'ain a double route as far as Rochester — one route being known
as the " main," and the other as the " old line," or Auburn road.
Schenectady is not a place of much interest to the traveler,
although it is one of the oldest towns in the State, and is distin
guished as the seat of Union College, founded in 1795, and
rendered illustrious by the long Presidency of Dr. Nott, whose
sermon at Albany against dueling, occasioned by the death of
Alexander Hamiltom, is claimed as the greatest oratorical effort,
of the early part of this century'.
Schenectady was established as a trading post with the Indians
as early as 1620. It suffered as frontier towns invariably do, and

166 THE tourist's guide.
was visited with massacre and fire in 1690, and again the toma
hawk was raised during the French and Indian war.
Leaving Schenectady, the railroad trains cross the Mohawk river
and the Erie canal upon a bridge nearly one thousand feet in
length. At Palatine Bridge the stage may be taken to Sharon
Springs, which is but ten miles distant, over a good plank road.
From Fort Plain, the next station, a regular line of stages
run to Cherry Valley and Cooperstown. In the vicinity is old
Fort Plain, of Revolutionary "memory.
At Little Falls may be seen perhaps the most wild and
picturesque scenery upon this route. Here, there is a bold passage
of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal through a rocky defile,
which affords a view of great beauty.
Fifty years ago a noted stage route from Rochester to Albany
led through Little Falls. The road wound along near a precipice
by the river side. On one occasion, General Winfield Scott was in
the stage, when at a sharp turn near the bottom of the hill, a
Pennsylvania wagon was .seen winding its way up diagonally. The
driver saw but one escape from a disastrous collision, and that, to
most persons, would have appeared even more dangerous than the
collision. However, having no time for reflection, he instantly
guided his team over the precipice and into the river, from which
the horses, passengers, coach and all were safely extricated. The
passengers, following General Scott's example made the driver a
handsome present as a reward for his courage and sagacity.
Near the ancient village of Herkimer, lie the fertile and cele
brated German Flats, nearly a thousand acres of which were once
owned by two parties, -Judge Weaver and Colonel Bellinger.
These two splendid farms have Jong since, by a very common pro-

AQUEDUCT AT LITTLE FALLS.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 167
cess, been melted into one. General C. P. Bellinger married the
daughter of Judge Weaver, and thus inherited both farms.
Utica, ninety-flve miles from Albany, is a handsome city upon
the south bank of the Mohawk river. Its manufactures interest
one class of visitors to the city — the State Lunatic Asylum call
some here upon sad errands — while many summer travelers, here
take the IJtica and Black River railway, by which Trenton Falls
are reached.
The large woolen mills of Mr. A. T. Stewart are located here, and
we rejoice to chronicle an act of beneficence which has not we
believe been mentioned by the papers.
During the severe weather of last winter, Mr; Stewart was
informed by his agent in Utica that the mills had five hundred tons
of coal to spare, which might be sold to advantage, as coal was
scarce and prices high. Mr. Stewart replied, " Sell none ; but, as
the price is high and the article scarce, give away the whole to the
working people of the mills — share and share alike;" which was
accordingly done.
Anthony Trollope, the celebrated English novelist, who has
written a book on " North America," says, that " a general air of
fat prosperity pervades all the towns between Albany and Buffalo,
and this air is quite as strong at Utica as anywhere else."
Trenton Falls was described by N. P. Willis as " the most
enjoyably beautiful spot among the resorts of romantic scenery in
our country." As Mr. Willis spent a good deal of time there,
making himself familiar with every feature of the locality, and
become devotedly attached to the place, all visitors may not be
inclined to agree with him in ranking Trenton Falls above all other
romantic resorts. But the tourist should not fail, in some of his

168 THE tourist's GUIDE.
summer trips, to obtain a view of the wonderful chasm which the
foaming torrent of waters has there made.
Trenton Falls is about an hour's ride from Utica. There is a
good hotel at the Falls, kept by the owner of the property. The
internal arrangements are pleasant and home-like. The parlors
are adorned with fine paintings and engravings, the music-j-oom
contains a pipe-organ, and, what will be appreciated by many, there
is no occasion for any elaborate display of toilettes.
Behind the hotel a winding path through a grove leads the
visitor to a steep staircase ; and descending this he finds himself in
a magnificent ravine, through which the amber-colored waters foam
and dash. The name of the river is Canada Creek West ; but, as
that is hardly euphonious, the course of water which forms the
Falls has been called after the town. This water course is nearly
two miles in length, and along the space of these two miles it is
impossible to say where the greatest beauty exists.
To see Trenton aright, one must be careful not to have too much
water. A sufficiency is no doubt desirable, and it may be, that at
the close of summer, before the autmnal rains have fallen, there
may occasionally be an insufficiency. But if there be too much,
the passage up the rock, along the river is impossible. The way
on which the tourist should walk becomes the bed of the stream,
and the great charm of the place cannot be enjoyed.
That charm consists in descending into the ravine of the river,
down amidst the rocks through which it has cut its channel, and in
walking up the bed against the stream, in climbing the sides of the
various Falls, and sticking close to the river till an envious blockade
is reached, which comes sheer down into the water, and prevents
further progress. This is nearly two miles above the steps by
which the descent is made ; and every foot of this distance is

THE tourist's GUIDE. 169
wildly beautiful. When the river is very low, there is a pathway
even beyond this block; but when this is the case, there can
hardly be water enough to make the Fall satisfactory.
There is no one special cataract at Trenton which is in itself
either wonderful or pre-eminently beautiful. It is the position,
form, color and rapidity of the river which gives the charm. It
runs through a deep ravine, the sides of which rise sometimes with
the sharpness of the walls of a stone sarcophagus. They are
rounded, too, towards the bed, as is the bottom of a sarcophagus.
Along the side of the right bank of the river, there is a passage,
which when the freshets come is altogether covered. This passage
is sometimes very narrow, but in the narrowest parts an iron chain
is affixed to the rock. It is slippery and wet, and it is well for
ladies, when visiting the place, to be provided with rubber shoes,
which keep a hold upon the stone.
There are two actual cataracts — one not far above the steps by
which the descent is made into the channel, and the other close
under a summer-house, near to which the visitors reascend into the
wood. But these cataracts, though by no means despicable as
cataracts, leave comparatively a slight impression. They tumble
down with sufficient violence, and the usual fantastic disposition of
their forces ; but ae cataracts within a day's journey of Niagara,
they would be nothing.
Up beyond the summer-house, the passage along the river can
be continued for another mile, but it is rough, and the climbing in
some places difficult, yet the succession of rapids, and the twisting
of the channels, and the forms of the rooks, are as wild and beauti
ful as the imagination can desire.
The banks of t-he river are closely wooded on each side ; and
though this circumstance does not at first seem to add much to the

170 THE tourist's GUIDE.
beauty, seeing that the ravine is so deep, that the absence of wood
above would hardly be noticed, still there are broken clefts ever
and anon, through which the colors of the foliage show themselves,
and straggling boughs and rough roots break through the rocks
here and there, and add to the wildness and charm of the whole.
The walk back from the summer-house through the wood is very
lovely ; but it would be a disappointing walk to visitors who had
been prevented by a flood in the river from coming up the channel,
for it indicates plainly how requisite it is that the river should be
seen from below and not from above. The best view of the larger
Fall itself, is that seen from the wood.
We present amid our pages three views, which will be recognized
by all who are conversant with the aspect of the different Falls at
Trenton. In conclusion, we will only say, in regard to Trenton, that
tourists from New York frequently visit Trenton Falls and Niagara
in the same trip — taking, perhaps, on one way, the Erie, and on
the other, the Central railway. We advise visiting Trenton. Falls
first — Niagara Falls can be compared to nothing else, it stands
alone — and the picturesque beauty of Trenton, in its wild, rocky
bed, is better appreciated when the impression of Niagara is not
fresh on the mind.
The John Brown Tract of the Adirondacks may be reached by
continuing upon the Black River railway beyond Trenton to Boone
ville, eighteen miles distant.
Returning to Utica, we pass Rome, Verona, Oneida and
Chittenango, upon our way to Syracuse.
At Verona and Chittenango are springs of considerable note.
The medicinal qualities of the Chittenango waters are very

AT TRENTON FALLS.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 171
similar in character to those of the celebrated White Sulphur
Springs in Virginia, and seem to possess their wonderful heal
ing powers, especially in cutaneous affections and diseases of the
liver, stomach and bowels, and other functions. But these waters,
like all that contain sulphuretted hydrogen gas, appear to have a
deleterious effect upon pulmonary complaints, and should be
avoided by those who are thus aflBicted. For that reason they are
also admirable tests by which to discover a real pulmonary disease,
the symptoms of which other disorders sometimes assume.
Syracuse is a marvel in the suddenness and rapidity of its
growth. In 1811, it was a tangled and almost impenetrable
swamp, thickly inhabited by frogs and water-snakes. Upon the
locality over which Syracuse now extends, there was, in the year to
which we refer, but one human habitation ; that was Cossett's
Tavern, near the site of the present Syracuse House.
It is an on dit at the present time in Syracuse society, that one
of its belles, who has been some time abroad, was recently married in
Europe to a Russian gentleman. It was, of course, after the cere
monial of the Greek church ; and there is so much that is pictur
esque about the pageant — what with the blue velvet and silver-
laced robe of the priest, the holding of heavy silver crowns over
the heads of the happy pair, for the priest takes the united hands
of the two in his, and marches with them slowly three times around
his, altar ; all the while the groomsmen follow, holding the silver
crowns over the heads of bride and bridegroom. These crowns are
so heavy that some of the assistants frequently come to aid the
groomsmen. Praying and chanting is liberally mingled with the
performance, and three times they take the sacrament. The bride
and bridegroom have a piece of rose-colored satin to stand upon,
and there is a vulgar belief that the one who treads first upon the

172 THE tourist's guide.
satin will hold the upper hand in the household. Upon this occa
sion the bridegroom gracefully placed the beautiful bride flrst upon
the pink rug.
The most extensive salt manufactories in the country, are to be
found here. The land containing the Saline Springs, is owned by
the State, and is leased free of rent, to be used, however, only in
this manufacture. The wells are dug, and the water pumped, at
the expense of the State, and the manufacturer pays a duty of one
cent per bushel.
Fine salt is prepared by boiling, while coarse salt is made by
solar evaporation.
An experiment has been made, by order of the Secretary of War,
to examine into the relative merits of the Onondaga and Turks
Island salts, and it has been proven, that home manufacture is
equal, if not superior, to foreign.
Syracuse is connected with Binghamton by railway, and also
with Oswego.
The best time ever made in this country by any railroad train,
was recorded here last summer, when Mr. William Vanderbilt
(a son of Cornelius, the mariner), and certain directors of the New
York Central railway, were conveyed from Rochester to Syracuse,
eighty-one miles, in sixty-one minutes.
Between Syracuse and Rochester, upon the " main line," are
seven flourishing towns. We shall, however, flnd more that is of
interest to the traveler by following the " old line," or Auburn
road, to Rochester.
We are now in the " lake " country of western New York, of
which comparatively very little is known. There are towns in this
lake region which are lovely resorts in summer, but in winter, rain

THE tourist's GUIDE. 173
and fog, and clouds and snow prevail to such an extent, that the
sun is not seen a dozen times in a month.
At the head of Skaneateles Lake was at one time a Water Cure,
lying in a valley with such a range of rooky summits upon the west,
that the sun set for the denizens of the " Cure " at three p. m. in
summer, and not long after ?ioon upon winter days.
Auburn is delightfully situated near Owasco Lake, which is
twelve miles in length. The State Prison is here. Auburn is also
noted for its Theological Seminary. Thus extremes meet. Auburn
is also known as the home of Hon. William H. Seward. It has
many fine residences, and a highly cultivated society.
Cayuga is the point where the railroad crosses Cayuga Lake
by a bridge over a mile in length. The cars should be left at this
point, if the Tourist desires to see Taghkanic Falls, which Dr.
Cheever pronounces " the Staubbach of Switzerland most absolutely
reproduced, and of concentrated beauty and grandeur."
Taking the boat up Cayuga Lake {south), and reluctantly learn
ing to say up, when inclination prompts us to say dow?i, we notice
Springport, the first landing, where Napoleon Third lived for
some time while in this country.
The next stopping place, Aurora, claims the honor of being
the prettiest town in the country. Here resides Mr. Henry Wells,
the founder of the American Merchants' Union Express Company.
At Frog Point, or Trumansburg, we leave the boat and enter a
stage which runs to the Taghkanic House, just in front of Tagh
kanic Falls, the highest in New York State. Truly you think
that never was stage fare — a quarter — better earned than when
the steep hill, one mile long, is climbed which brings you to your
destination.

174 THE tourist's guide.
Taghkanic Creek fiows through a rich and flourishing country,
.till it reaches a point less than two miles distant from Cayuga
Lake, where a rocky ledge rises some fifty or sixty feet directly in
its bed. But the stream has been inspired to exoavart;e for itself a
channel from one hundred to four hundred feet in depth, and four
hundred feet across at its lower extremity. Through this chasm
the waters hurry on to the precipice, whence they fall into a rocky
basin. At the bottom of the fall, the ravine is upward of four hundred
feet in perpendicular height, and the waters form a cataract more
than fifty feet higher than that at Niagara.
Ithaca lies at the head of Cayuga Lake, and can be reached
not only by steamboat from Cayuga, but by the Cayuga division of
the Erie railway.
In the immediate vicinity of Ithaea are fifteen waterfalls — some
of them being realty very beautiful. It is, however, more noted as
the seat of the Cornell University.
The Cornell University originated in the combinedbounty of the
United States Government and of the Honorable Ezra Cornell.
In 1862, Congress passed an act granting public lands to the
several States and Territories which might provide Colleges for
the benefit of Agriculture and the JVIechanic Arts."
The share of the State of New York was in land scrip, represent
ing nine hundred and nin'ety thousand acres. From the first, the
State determined to concentrate this fund in a single institution
worthy of the Commonwealth.
In 1865, the entire proceeds of the land grant were transferred
to the Cornell University upon its compliance with certain condi
tions, of which the most important were that Ezra Cornell should

33

H
O

THE tourist's GUIDE. Vlb
give to the Institution five hundred thousand dollars, and that
provision should be made for the education, free of all charge for
tuition, of one student from each Assembly district of the State.
At the first meeting of the Trustees thereafter, Mr. Cornell fulfilled
the requirements of the Charter. He then made the additional gift
of over two hundred acres of land, with buildings, as a farm' to be
attached to the College of Agriculture, and of the Jewett collec
tion in Geology and Palaeontology — a collection which had cost
him ten thousand dollars ; and he has given- since that time, other
gifts to the amount of twenty-five thousand dollars. Besides this,
he has expended about two hundred thousand dollars in purchasing
the land scrip and locating the lands of the University.
The career of the Institution since that period has been one
of constant advancement. The interest of the public has never
ceased to manifest itself. Gifts of various kinds — collections,
*
sums for building purposes, machinery and models — have been
freely bestowed upon the University. The value of these gifts is
estimated at nearly four hundred thousand dollars.
.During the three years which have elapsed since its doors were
first thrown open, the number of instructors has increased from
twenty-four to almost forty. Two additional edifices of stone have
been erected, and another has been commenced. A large tempo
rary building of wood, for laboratory purposes, has been constructed.
Roads have been laid out and bridges built. Thirty thousand
volumes have been added to the library. A University printing-
office, on a large scale, has been established. A cabinet of Ameri
can birds, a cabinet of cereals, an extensive herbarium, a cabinet
of botanical models, a cabinet of anatomical models, have, among
other collections, increased the treasures of the various museums
The facilities for instruction have thus kept pace with the increase

176 THE tourist's guide.
in the number of undergraduates, which has more than doubled
since 1868. The sums paid for manual and other labor to such
of these as needed the assistance, has exceeded twenty thousand
dollars. In 1869, the following paragraph went the rounds of the news
papers : "Cornell University has its first ' Freshwoman,' Miss Jennie
Spencer, who has been admitted to the Freshman class after having
passed an excellent examination." And in the fall of 1870 nearly
three hundred new pupils were received, involving the appointment
of four new professors, among whom was Mr. 0. P. Cornell, a son
of the founder.
Professor Goldwin Smith and Professor Fiske have lately
selected the site for a large residence in Ithaca. The dwelling
will be a large double house, planned and built to suit the taste
and convenience of these bachelor professors. It will cost about
twelve thousand dollars. Professor Smith is said to be a gentle
man of fortune, and can afford to build as he pleases, but it is to
be hoped that he will avoid that bad style of architecture so popular
in the United States, the " pointed Ironic."
The chimes which summon its students to their morning duties
were presented to the University by Miss M'Graw, whose father,
Mr. John M'Graw, has recently announced to the authorities his
intention to erect a library building at a cost of fifty thousand
dollars. The new structure is to stand between the two main
University edifices, is to be built like them, in the Florentine pala
tial style of architecture, of white and dark blue stone, and to
include a lofty campanile, in which the M'Graw chimes are to be
placed. Mr. Hiram Sibley, of Rochester, is also erecting a large stone
edifice for the use of the College of the Mechanic Arts.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 177
Mr. Greene Smith, of Geneva, the only son of Gerrit Smith,
who is an ardent naturalist, has bestowed upon the Museum of
Geology his costly collection of American birds, and is still con
stantly increasing it.
With all these endowments, Cornell University is, and cannot
fail to be, in a steadily increasing degree, a " power in the land."
A Horticultural School for young Ladies, has been projected
at Ithaca, with the object of giving an industrial, as well as a
literary education.
The industrial instruction will not be confined to horticulture,
but will be extended to such other branches of business as women
can appropriately carry on. A generous grant of land has been
made by the Hon. Ezra Cornell, and the success of this enterprise
is confidently predicted.
Returning from Ithaca to Cayuga, we proceed by rail to the
next station, Seneca Falls, beyond which is Geneva, a fair
and flourishing city, the seat of Hobart College, of the Medical
Institute of Geneva College, and of the Geneva Union School.
The site of Geneva is admirably chosen, upon the banks of
Seneca, which is one of the most interesting and beautiful lakes of
Western New York. It is very deep and never freezes over.
Steamboats run between Jefferson at the south end of the lake,
and Geneva at the north end.
Watkins Glen, is situated at the southern extremity of
Seneca Lake. A daily line of steamboats from Geneva, renders
this place accessible to those who travel by the New York Central
route — while it is also approached by railway from Elmira, by
tourists who come by the Erie road from the east, or by the
Williamsport and Elmira railway from Pennsylvania.
12

178 THE tourist's guide.
It will undoubtedly surprise many travelers to learn the fact,
that over sixty thousand names were registered upon the hotel
books at Watkins, last summer.
The best description thus far given of the Glen is, that it
'¦'¦reminds one of the, Mammoth Cave, with the lid lifted off '."
The Glen was considered by Secretary Seward, of such interest,
that he brought .the whole Diplomatic Corps to visit it, on the
occasion of that tour in which he showed them some of the wonders
of our country.
The Glen is really a rift or gorge in a rocky bluff, some six
hundred feet in height. It opens abruptly upon Franklin, the
principal street in the village. First entering a huge amphitheatre,
to which there is no apparent exit, the visitor looks up at rocks
towering above his head — then follows the path to the western end,
where the walls of rock overlap each other, leaving a narrow
passage, through and up which he passes by a steep stair-way to
the First Glen.
Here it is always cool. The overhanging rocks are crowned
with a fringe of trees, through which the sunlight is seldom seen.
At the upper end of this half-mile Glen, is a waterfall some
seventy or eighty feet in height. Ascending a stair-case, which is
well nigh a ladder, we reach the Mountain House, as it is called.
Then follow three more Glens, with their wild and picturesque
beauties. The crowning attraction of the fourth Glen, is the Rainbow Fall,
behind which the path winds along. The four " Glens" spread
over some three miles of space.
In this vicinity there are other glens and waterfalls, of them
selves well worthy the attention of the tourist. Their wonders and
beauties are second only to the Glen at Watkins.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 179
There are pleasant drives through a country dotted with neat
villages, blooming with orchards and vineyards, abounding in all
agreeable and picturesque objects ; but says a recent visitor, the
genial Porte Crayon : — We returned to the Glen day after day, and
found that, instead of palling, its weird charms rather grew upon
us. At each visit some new beauty was developed, some curious
nook or angle, unremarked before, arrested our attention ; and we
took leave regretfully, impressed with the belief that we had not
seen half of its wonders.
In conclusion, we would commend the spot to some of our great
landscape artists, as promising subjects worthy of their powers.
To the invalid there is no more healthful or invigorating resort.
To complete its claims to their regard, there is now in process of
erection a large and convenient sanitarium, where the malingering
public may be dosed with pure air, exercise, and cheerful recrea
tion — nature's medicines — on scientific principles.
If any one doubts the superior healthfulness of this region, let
him visit our ancient friend, Thomas Terryberry, who lives at the
head of the Glen. This patriarch, still brisk and merry as a
cricket, alert on his feet as a boy, with all his faculties clear and
sound, boasts that he is ninety-seven years of age. Now, as we
have the best local authority for asserting that he has been ninety-
seven for the last sixteen years, we may safely predict that he can
live sixteen years longer without getting much ahead of "his
century." No place is more easy of access than Watkins, located directly
on the great line of travel to and from Niagara, of which the Glen
is a worthy pendant ; and any modern Dr. Syntax, philosophically
curious in sight-seeing, may have the opportunity to decide whether
it is more enjoyable to take one's quantum of sublimity in one

180 THE tourist's GUIDE.
stunning, foaming gulp, or to sip it more coolly and luxuriously
through a spindling tunnel three miles in length.
From Watkins' Glen we return to Geneva, and go to Clifton
Springs. There is here an eminent Water Cure establishment,
and the water of the Springs is esteemed by many a beverage flt
to be borne among the immortals by Ganymedes.
The Clifton Spa House was erected as a dispensary in 1806,
when the springs, then gushing out on the borders of a rough
marsh and tangled forest, were visited by invalids from the sur
rounding country. For fifty years these waters have been famous
for their cure of bilious and cutaneous disorders ; and yet it is
only about a dozen years that they have been much known beyond
the region of Central New York.
Below the beautiful grove of maple, basswood, ash and chestnut
trees, through which the visitors stroll to the fountains, there is a
pretty lake, with an island in its centre, planted with shrubbery
and adorned with a pavilion.
From Clifton Springs to Canandaigua is a pleasant ride of
eleven or twelve miles. This is a beautiful town at the north end
of Canandaigua Lake. And next we steam into Rochester, twenty-
nine miles distant.
Rochester is noted for its enterprise — it is noted also for the
number of its beautiful homes. In comparison with its population.
it covers more ground than almost any other city in the Union.
Considering Brooklyn as an adjunct to New York, Rochester
now ranks in the scale of population and business as the third city
in the Union.
The city dates back to the erection of a saw-mill upon the east
side of the river, in 1808, but there was no recognized community
till three or four years later.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 181
Rochester — favored city — lies in the heart of the Genesee coun
try, the Garden of the Empire State.
To a large extent, New England influences and ancestry have
moulded character and society here, and transmitted that indomi
table energy which has made Rochester the beautiful home of a
reflned and wealthy people.
Its name is derived from Colonel Nathaniel Rochester, the
Revolutionary Patriot, whose business enterprise first led to the
utilization of the splendid water-power of Western New York.
At the present day. Powers' Commercial Fire-proof Buildings
are so identified with the business interests and material progress
of the city, that to describe Rochester and make no mention of
Powers' Block, would be like presenting the play of Hamlet with
the part of Hamlet left out.
In 1812, a rude log cabin was reared upon the present site of
this fine structure. This log house was succeeded, in 1818, by the
Ensworth House, a wooden frame building, to which, a few years
later, there was added an attic, which served as a public hall, and
was used successively as a concert-room, ball-room, lecture-room
and theatre.
The Ensworth House gave place, under the march of improve
ment, to the brick edifice which was known for forty years as the
Eagle Hotel.
Here, many a political battle was fought, and many a noted guest
was entertained. Here, also was reared a gigantic ash pole, in
honor of " Harry Clay," in 1844 — the lower portion of which was
not removed till the _excavations were made for the foundations of
the present building.
In 1870, Power's building, which is a " city within a city," was
completed and thrown open to the public, with its frontage of

182 THE tourist's guide.
nearly two hundred feet, upon the principal streets of Rochester —
its seven stories of height — its open area in the centre — its grand
stair-cases, its superb elevator, its thirty thousand dollars worth of
plate glass, its eight acres of flooring, and its owe thf.usand tenants,
render this building a curiosity and a wonder.
Among the prominent public buildings are the Court House and
City Hall, on Buffalo street. The Arcade is also a handsome
building. The Western House of Refuge for juvenile offenders is
located about one mile from the heart of the city, and was built at
a cost of sixty-five thousand dollars.
The Rochester University, Baptist Theological Seminary and
Rochester Athenaeum, also claim attention.
Among the numerous parks and gardens, the Livingston Place is
perhaps the most noticeable. Mount Hope Cemetery, ia the
vicinity, is a spot of great natural loveliness, and in fact is only
considered second in beauty and interest to the famous " Green
wood " of New York.
The cut-stone aqueduct by which the Erie canal is carried across
the Genesee river, is worthy of notice.
Genesee Falls are seen to the best advantage from the east
side of the stream. The railroad cars pass one hundred rods south
of the most southerly fall on the Genesee river, so that passengers
in crossing, lose the view. To see the Falls to the best advantage,
the tourist must cross the bridge over the Genesee, and place him
self immediately in front of the fall. This railway bridge is eight
hundred feet long, and twenty-five feet high. Some distance
beyond, a stairway conducts to the bottom of a ravine, whence
you may pass in a boat, or pick your way along beneath the spray
of the tumbling floods. The walls of this gorge are of slate stone ;
they rise to a height of more than three hundred feet, and in the

THE tourist's GUIDE. 183
many and sudden turnings of the way afford a fine succession of
noble pictures.
These Falls have three perpendicular pitches, and two rapids.
The first great cataract is eighty rods below the aqueduc t, and the
ledge here recedes up the river, from the centre to the sides, break
ing the water into three distinct sheets. From Table Rook, in the
ceiitre of these Falls, Sam Patch made his last, renowned, and
fatal leap.
The river below the first fall is broad and deep. Below the
second fall, it becomes a rapid, noisy stream, till it reaches the
third fall, where it pours its flood over a descent of more than
one hundred feet. Below this fall are numerous rapids which con
tinue to Carthage, the head of navigation of the Genesee river from
Lake Ontario.
By the Rochester and Charlotte railroad, passengers may reach
the shores of Lake Ontario, and thence by steamboats visit almost
every port upon the lake — this is a route much traveled by sports
men, who have learned that hunting in the Lake Ontario region is
far from being tame and common-place.
To those who are identified with the cause of " Woman's Rights,"
Rochester is pleasantly associated with the name of Miss Anthony,
although it may surprise the general public, to learn that Rochester
is this lady's home when she retires from public into private life.
Ere we say " farewell " to Rochester, we must advert also to
the changes which have been wrought in modes of travel within
fifty years. Those who step into a railroad car at Albany, at seven
o'clock in the morning, and step out to get their dinner in Roches
ter at two o'clock P. M., will find it difficult to believe that within
the memory of by no means the " oldest inhabitant " it required, in

184 THE tourist's guide.
muddy seasons of the year, seven nights' and six days' constant
traveling in stages to accomplish the same journey.
The rate of progress was not much more swift or agreeable, by
the " raging canal." Good stories are told to this day of the
exploits by which travelers endeavored to beguile the tedious
hours. At one time, among the passengers from Rochester, com
ing east, were a heavy doctor and sharp lawyer, who were at home,
and disposed to be funny during the long and tedious days of
canal boat journey by one-horse power.
One day when they were on deck, and the lawyer, who had a hat
full of papers on his head, was playing checkers with the captain,
the doctor shouted suddenly, " Bridge ! low bridge !" The lawyer
dropped his head ; off went his hat, with all his papers flying into
the water. All enjoyed the joke greatly, as the bareheaded lawyer
had to jump ashore, and with a boat-hook, fish his documents out
of the canal, and then pursue the boat and get aboard as well as
he could. He owed the doctor one, and felt bound in law to pay him.
In the afternoon the fat doctor, wearied of sitting, wanted to
" stretch his legs " on the tow-path. The boat was steered near
the shore ; he made a desperate leap, and landed on all fours. But
the risk was so great that he said he would walk to Albany rather
than at'empt to jump aboard. What was to be done ? The cap
tain told him to go ahead, and swing down ^rom the next bridge,
and he would give the word when to drop. The doctor did as hq-
was told. The boat came under. " Captain," said the lawyer,
" let me give the word, and I'll treat the crowd." " Done," said
the captain. Slowly the boat moved under the suspended man,
" Don't drop till we give the word," cried the captain. Just as
the boat cleared him, " Now drop !" shouted the lawyer, and down
went the doctor plump into five feet of water.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 185
Like a hippopotamus, the heavy man of medicine waded to the
bank ; and the boat held up while the lawyer went ashore, gave
his hand to the doctor, and pulled him out, whispering, " We're
even now !"
Avon lies south of Rochester, some eighteen miles, and is con
nected with that city by a branch railway — it is also located upon
one of the branches of the Erie road. Avon is upon the right
bank of the Genesee river, on a terrace one hundred feet above
the water, and commands beautiful views in every direction.
There are mineral springs here, and life in summer weather par
takes of the gay, social nature which gives to all these summer
resorts — " the Springs " — so much of the character of a perpetual
pic-nic. The early mornings are spent in walks and conversation ; and
at half-meridian the bath-houses swarm with bathers. Then bil
liards, and croquet, occupy the time till early dinner. Toward
evening, riding parties start off in every direction with a hilarity
that keeps the more serious invalids in good humor till their
return. Thus the days and nights are passed at Avon.
Three Water Cures have recently been opened here ! May they
all prosper'. Such institutions seem peculiarly adapted to the
summer wants of those who visit mineral springs in search of the
mq,gic Fountain of Health. But what dreary winter homes they
must be to the invalid, who should be surrounded with cheerful
scenes. Probably the prestige of the noted New York Water Cure
at Laight street. New York city, is due in part to its location in
the Metropolis, as well as to the success of its medical treatment.
For the winter, it must be a retreat far preferable to these Cures
in Western New York, and at all seasons the well known Laight
street Water Cure and Hygienic Home proffers its hospitalities to

186 THE tourist's guide.
those who visit the city. It is not to be wondered at, that many
wealthy and cultured citizens from all parts of the Empire State,
make the Hygienic Home their Hotel, when in New York.
While at Avon, it should be remarked that we are still in
that region which was once the home of the Seneca Indians. In
this tribe the poetic sentiment was more highly developed than is
usual with " the poor Indian."
A beautiful superstition prevailed among them. When a maiden
died, they imprisoned a young bird till it began to try its power
of song — then, loading it with messages and caresses, the women
of the tribe would loose its bonds over the grave, believing that it
would not fold its wings or close its eyes, until, in the spirit land,
it had delivered its precious burden of affection to the loved and
lost. It was not infrequent for twenty or thirty birds to be set
free above one grave.
Upon the banks of the Genesee river, near the village of Gene-
seo, once stood the famous " Big Tree." When the white man
first saw it, it was the patriarch of the Genesee Valley, and was
so revered by the Senecas, that they named the beautiful savanna
around it, and their village near it, "Big Tree." It also gave
name to an eminent Seneca chief, the coadjutor and friend of Corn-
planter, Half-town, Farmers-brother, and other great leaders of the
warlike Seneca nation.
In the autumn of 1779, Sullivan, with -a chastising army, swept
so ruthlessly through their beautiful land, annihilating villages, and
leaving sombre tracks of desolation behind him, that Washington,
" chief of the pale-faces," who was held responsible for the act, was
called The Town Destroyer. " When your army entered the Six
Nations," said Corn-planter to Washington, in 1792, " we called
you 'The Town Destroyer;' and to this day, when that name is

THE tourist's GUIDE. 187
heard, our women look behind them and turn pale, and our children
cling close to the necks of their mothers."
The age of the Big Tree was doubtless more than a thousand
years. Little of it was left at last but its mighty trunk, which
measured twenty-six feet in circumference. A vigorous elm germi
nated beneath its roots, and clasped one of its larger but decayed
branches, seeming like another ..Slneas piously bearing old Anchises
in its filial arms. But it was a treacherous friend. It robbed the
old tree of its needed sustenance, and hour by hour, while it twined
its young branches lovingly among the gnarled ones of the patri
arch, it drew from it its life-blood. A local writer happily com
pared the relationship to the contact of the hardy Indian with the
white man, and wrote :
' ' Crushed in the Saxon's treacherous grasp.
The Indian's heart is brolse :
The gi-acefid elm's insidious clasp
Destroys the mighty oak I"
During a great flood, early in November, 1857, both the Big
Tree and the treacherous elm were swept away by the raging
waters of the Genesee river.

<r^^€Ci>'t^--^!^

XI.

I^UFFALO is frequently called the "beautiful city."
It is seen in its brightest aspect by travelers who
arrive in the early evening, or in the cool of the morn
ing, by trains from the east or west, and, after satisfy
ing wants of the inner man, ride or stroll over the city.
Fine edifices are very plentiful here — the Buffalo
University — the State Normal School — the State Insane Asylum
— the Female Academy, with an endowment of fifty thousand
dollars, etc. Five, fine public squares, and a profusion of shade
trees, relieve, and set off, the pleasant looking dwelling-houses.
Here resides Mark Twain — the "inimitable Mark."
Here, also, comes corn, not only from Chicago, but from all the
ports around the lakes.
Here, too, may be seen, in its glory, the Elevator, that amphib
ious institution, which flourishes only on the banks of navigable
waters. An elevator is probably as ugly and. as usef al a monster as has
yet been produced in a country which boasts itself of wondrous

THE tourist's GUIDE. 189
contrivances — in patent remedies for the usually troublous opera
tions of life.
Buffalo is a gateway through which eighty million bushels of
breadstuffs have passed eastward in one year. Let those who are
susceptible of statistics, muse on this.
The city gradually rises as it recedes from the water's edge, and
at the distance of two miles becomes an extended plain, fifty feet
above the level of the harbor, affording delightful views of the
city, Niagara Lake and Canada shore.
From Buffalo, five trains run daily to Niagara Falls.
Niagara has been our goal. We have traveled here by
devious ways — have seen much water upon our road, and have
had to talk of at least a score of water-falls, but feeling that we
are not particularly happy in describing water-falls, we have tried
to keep what little capacity we do possess, to assist our description
of Niagara. And now that we are here, words fail us !
What can we say that has not been often said, and better said,
before ?
Yet of all sights upon our broad earth which people travel to
see, Niagara may justly claim to bear away the palm !
In the list of such sights, we intend to include all buildings,
pictures, statues — all wonders of art created by man, and all won
ders of nature created by God.
Those who have traveled but little, may doubt, — those who have
traveled widely, will confirm this view.
Yet this is not saying that Niagara should be seen in preference
to all the works of art and nature which we claim that it excels.
At Florence, there may be gained a mastery of modern art ; at
Rome, an understanding of the cold hearts, correct eyes and cruel

190 THE tourist's GUIDE.
ambition of the old Latin race. In Switzerland, the grandeur and
loveliness of nature will stir the springs of romance in every human
soul. The Tropics will unfold a new world of strange luxuriance
and gorgeous effects ! At Paris, there has been seen in the past,
and will be seen again, the world's varnish — its supreme of polish,
shining, superficial and unreal ! London and New York reveal
man^s power, the gigantic machinery of trade ! But there is no
other one thing so beautiful, so glorious, and so powerful as Niagara.
Any one of the journeys we have mentioned may — nay, they
must — be more valuable to a man than a journey to Niagara. At
Niagara, there is that fall of waters alone. Yet that fall is more
graceful than Giotto's Tower, more noble than the Apollo ! The
peaks of the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude ! The
valleys of the Blue Mountains, in Jamaica, are less green.
The finished glaze of the Second Empire in Paris was less inval
uable. The full tide of trade around the Bank of England, and
in " down town," New York, is not so inexorably powerful.
That the waters of Lake Erie have come down in their courses
from the broad basins of Lake Michigan, Lake Superior and Lake
Huron ; that these waters fall into Lake Ontario by the short
and rapid river of Niagara, called by the Indians, " Thunder of
Waters," and that the Falls of Niagara are made by a sudden
break in the level of this rapid river, is undoubtedly known to all
who will read these pages.
" Where shall we stop at Niagara ?" becomes now a question of
more importance, than any consideration of the causes which
have produced Niagara ?
There are hotels upon the Canadian, and hotels on the Anierican
shore. The patriotic, however, who do not belong to that class of
whom it said, that good Americans go to Paris when they die — will

THE tourist's GUIDE. 191
undoubtedly spend their money in our own country ! The greater
variety of prospect can also be had on the American shore.
The Falls were first seen by a white man — a Jesuit Missionary
— in 1678. How many thousands have been here since, it is
impossible to determine. A few years ago, life at Niagara was quite
burdensome because of the rapacious and every where present hack-
men. This class, however, are now quite subdued. They are
chained into a very limited space at the railroad depot ; and when
the cars arrive, bringing innocent strangers, all they can do is to
hail them gently from their cage, and see if, by chance, any body
wants to ride. The arrangement is really very comfortable. And
though of course, if you go outside of your hotel, a hackman pops
up at every street corner, yet, on the whole, they do not annoy
travelers half as much as they used to do.
Directions how to view Niagara are altogether superfluous — the
crowd — the guides^and the roar of the great Cataract, being indi
cations which no one will err in following.
The Falls are made, by a sudden breach in the level of the river,
but never elsewhere, as far as the world yet knows, has a breach
so sudden been made in a river carrying in its channel any such
body of water. Above the falls, for more than a mile, the water
frets itself into little torrents, and begins to assume the majesty of
its power.
The waters, though so broken in their descent, are deliciously
green. This color will be better seen from the further end of Iris, or
Goat Island, which divides the river immediately above the Falls.
Indeed, Goat Island is a part of that precipitously broken ledge,
over which the river tumbles, and will in time doubtless, like
Table Rock, crumble away. Let us hope that the time will be
very long.

192 THE tourist's guide.
In the meanwhile. Goat Island is perhaps a mile round, and
heavily covered with timber. It is connected by a fine bridge with
the main shore.
Bath Island is reached by a bridge from Goat Island ; and
beyond Goat Island there are a few scattered rocks, which are con
nected with it by a third bridge. These rocks lie on the very brink
of the precipice, between the American Falls and the Horse-Shoe
Fall, and on them stands the tower, named Terrapin or Prospect
Tower, from which we obtain a magnificent view of Niagara, and
especially of the Horse-Shoe Fall, where the line of the ledge
bends inwards against the flood — in, and in, and in, till one is led
to think that the depth of that Horse-Shoe is immeasurable.
It has been cut with no stinting hand. A monstrous cantle has
been worn out back of the centre of the rock, so that the fury of the
waters converges, and the spectator, as he gazes into the hollow,
with wishful eyes, fancies that he can hardly trace out the centre
of the abyss. " Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe
Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud ,
Mantled around thy feet.
Thou dost speak
Alone of God, who poured thee as a drop
From his right hand."
From Prospect Tower, the view of the Falls is not as entire and
complete, as from the Canadian shore, but it is perhaps more
beautiful. The eye in roving over the landscape at this point, cannot fail
to perceive on the Canadian side, up above the fall, what Mr..
Anthony Trollope, a recent visitor, calls, a " horrid obelisk, put
there with some camera obscura intention for which the projector
deserves to be put into Coventry.

 .-.-¦¦  — —  ¦ —

"l^s^

NIAGARA
THE tourist's GUIDE. 193
" At such a place as Niagara, tasteless buildings, run up in wrong
places, with a view of money making, are perhaps necessary evils.
It may be that they are not evils at all ; that they give more pleas
ure than pain, seeing that they tend to the enjoyment of the multi
tude. But there are edifices of this description which cry aloud to
the gods, by the force of their own ugliness and malposition. As
to such, it may be said that there should somewhere exist a power
capable of crushing them in their birth. This obelisk or picture-
building at Niagara, is one of such !"
Very creditable photographs of the Falls, and of visitors, are
taken there, however, and perhaps the building does not generally
incur the maledictions which Mr. Trollope expends upon it.
On Goat Island, is the Indian Emporium, an amusing place to
visit, but it may be surmised that some members of the " universal
Yankee nation" have a hand in the manufacture of the Indian
curiosities sold here.
From the Indjan emporium, three routes diverge over the island.
The principal path is that to the right, which keeps the best of the
sights till the last — affording less striking views of the Falls than
do the other routes, at first, but surpassing them both at its con
clusion. Taking the right-hand path, - then from the Toll Gate, we reach
first, the center Fall, called the Cave of the Winds, midway between
the American and the Horse-Shoe Fall.
The Cave is one hundred feet high, and of the same extent in
width. A wonderful prospect may be securely enjoyed here.
Magical rainbow pictures may frequently be seen, and the three
profiles are always objects of interest. These profiles, seemingly
some two feet long, are to be seen, one directly above the other, as
13

194 THE tourist's guide.
you look across the first sheet of "water, directly under the lowest
point of rock.
LuNA Island is reached by a foot-bridge, from the right of
Goat Island. Those who watch for the rainbow here will under
stand the fitness of the island's name. Lives have been lost here,
and many a tale of disaster or hair-breadth escape is told as we
pass along.
Biddle's Stairs are upon the west side of the island, and
were named in honor of Nicholas Biddle, of United States Bank
fame, who is reported to have said to the workmen : " Make us
something, by which we may descend and see what is below."
These spiral stairs are secured to the rocks by strong fastenings.
This vicinity is noted for the exploits of Sam Patch, the famous
jumper, who averred that " one thing might be done as well as
another." Gull Island is in view, upon which the foot of man has never
trod. The Three Sisters are small islands near; and a spot
named the Bathing Place of Francis Abbot, "the Hermit, who
long resided here, is pointed out.
At the head of Goat Island, is Navy Island, where occurred
many scenes in the Canadian Rebellion, known as McKensie's
War. Grand Island, which contains eleven thousand acres, is the
spot upon which Major M. M. Noah once hoped to assemble all
the Hebrew tribes.
From the American shore, a descent of two hundred feet by
staircase, brings one to the Ferry which runs to the Canadian
shore, three-fourths of a mile distant. It is by this crossing that
the best conception is attained of the power and majesty of the
tremendous Cataract of Niagara.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 195
In 1869, a fine Suspension Bridge for carriages and pedestrians
was completed just below the Palls, connecting the village of
Niagara Falls with Clifton, thus obviating the necessity of the
long ride around by the old Suspension Bridge into Canada.
The Whirlpool, three miles below the Falls, corresponds
with the famous Maelstrom, on the coast of Norway. A difficult
path leads to a point where a full view of it may be obtained.
The Devil's Hole, a mile below the Whirlpool, embraces
about two acres, cut out laterally and perpendicularly in the rock
by the side of the river, and is one hundred and fifty feet deep.
Those who are not content with a carriage view, but will alight, and
walk to the further side of the flat projecting rock, will be richly
repaid for their trouble.
Chasm Tower, three and a half miles below the Falls, com
mands a suberb prospect of the surrounding country.
Table Rock is no more. Its history is left us. It fell in
1862, but its vicinity is still a famous place of resort, where the
Cataract's roar transcends all lesser sounds.
Termination Rook occupies a recess behind the great Horse-
Shoe Fall. It is approached by the descent of a spiral staircase,
and the traverse of a narrow and fearful path through the blinding
spray behind the mighty Fall.
It is an excursion which offers peril and delight to the real
Tourist. Let not the timid, and ease-loving — the fair weather
traveler rashly attempt tlius to see Niagara.
The Museum, near Table Rock, contains more than ten thou
sand specimens of minerals, birds and animals, many of which
were collected in the vicinity of the Falls.

196 THE tourist's guide.
The Burning Spring is two miles above the Falls. Its
water emits a brilliant flame when a fee has rewarded the attendant,
for its ignition.
The height of the American Fall is one hundred and sixty-four
feet, that of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe, one hundred and fifty
feet. The former is nine hundred feet across, and the latter one
thousand nine hundred.
The roar of the waters has been heard at Toronto, forty-four
miles away. It is asserted by some, that Niagara in winter affords
the most sublime spectacle of all, but we are among those who
prefer to serve Queen June, rather than King Frost !
The Battle Ground of Lundy's Lane, where in 1814, occurred
a noted contest between the English and American forces, is about
a mile and a half distant from the Clifton House. Lewiston and
Queenston, about seven miles distant from the Falls, are also
worthy of a visit.
Of Niagara, it is related, that at one hotel, one summer Sabbath
day last season, seventy-five Brides sat down to dine at the table
" d'Hote." Church's Niagara, one of the famous pictures of the times, has,
we learn, recently passed into the possession of Mr. A. T. Stewart.
But every one who travels, visits Niagara ! Its story is an oft-
told tale. With the crowds we came hither — we stay a day, or a
week — and then gayly say, " Niagara, Farewell!"

the tourist's guide.

197

[This Engraving is incorrect in the Piazzas on the wings, which arc not built ; and in
ohiitting numerous large trees in front.]
COOPISR HOUSES,
Otsego Lake, Cooperstown, N. Y.

The Cooper House stands eighty feet above the Lalce; 1.200 Teet above the
Sea ; in a fine Park of over seven acres, handsomely enibelllshed, planted with
Shade Trees, and including Croquet, Ball and Archery Grounds. All modern
improvements, including hells, gas in every room, hot and cold baths, &q.
The house accommodates 300 GUESTS, and is well adapted for lamilies.
On the enlarged premises have been erected Summer Houses, Bowling
Alleys and Billiard Room, a new Laundry, Barns with increased stabling accom
modations, etc.
A NEW STEAMER on Otsego Lake, accommodating .300 persons, will run regu
larly In connection with the Railroad, and RICHFIELD and SHARON SPRINGS,
besides making frequent Pleasure Trips around the Lake, which is also
supplied witii numerous sail and row boats. Omuibusses will run regularly
from the Cooper House, to and from the Steamer and favorite prospects, etc.
Cooperstown is within about four hours from ALBANY or BINGHAMTON by
rail, and from UTICA b.y rail, stage, and Otsego Lake Steamer, twice each way
dail.v; of easy access from, and in telegraphic communication with all parts
of tlie world. Albany morning papers are received at noon, a'ld New VTork
dailies the same evening. Richfleld and Sharon Springs are a delightful drive
and sail of two or three hours.
To those seeking health, who enjoy nature's beauties in hill, lake, and
valle.v scenery, who are fond of walks and drives, picturesque and charming
in variety and extent, and of boating on one of the most beautiful inland
lakes in the State, Cooperstown offers rare inducements, while the historic
and classic associations of Cooper's pen give to the region a special promi
nence. Board, $4 per day, or from $18 to 825 per week : for one month or over, at
the rate of $15 to S20 per week, according to size and location of room.
Families accommodated after August on very favorable terms.

WU. B. COLEMAIT,
orthe New York notpl.

COLEMAN & MAXWELL
ALBERT MAXWELL,
Late Siipt. of the Union Club.

198

THE tourist's GUIDE.

Many Changes have bscn wrought within
Fifty Years*

Steamboats, Eailways, Inventions and Improvements have followed each
other in close succession, yet that which is of real value outlives the march of
change, and permanency is often a genuine teat of merit.

Whose place of business is represented above, have been for Forty Years
established at the same well-known stand, 4 and 6 Burling Slip, at the foot
of John Street, New York City. Britannia Ware was the fashionable metal,
ranking next to Solid Silver, forty years ago, and Mr. Hart, the Senior Member
of the Firm, won a splendid reputation as au honest mantjpactuheb of it.
The experience of every purchaser proved that all goods stamped with the
name of Lucius Hart were of Sterling Value. Twenty-three years since,
when Electro Plating became popular, the manufacture of Silver Plated "Ware
was added to that of Britannia by the Lucius Hart Company.
This is the Oldest Firm in the United States engaged in the Business of
making Silver Plated Ware.
In buying plated ware, it is especially important to deal with men of reputa
tion and integrity, for the buyer has no means of testing the thickness of the
silver plating until time and use conclusively test it for him. The goods made
by the Lucius Hart Manufacturing Co. are widely known as possessing substan
tial value. Their business is immense — in the article of Ice Pitchers alone
their sales far exceed all the sales of two or three of their most prominent
competitors in this line of trade. They have now about thirty new and elegant
patterns of Ice Pitchers for sale at the most Reasonable Prices. Communion
Services are also a specialty in their manufacture. Persons residing in any
part of the State will in most cases save the expense of their trip by visiting
New York, and making their purchases of Ice Pitchers and other plated ware
of the Lucius Hart Co. Their place of business is easily found, at
Foot of John Street, New York City.

i.<

TBAwg,

-ftrT)

vm

XII.
SHIS is the era of Summer trips and Honeymoon
tours — of travel, domestic and foreign invasion.
This is the epoch when anywhere on the road, say,
from New York to Niagara, you encounter now and
again a young lady in a suit of brown or gray,
matched from gloves to gaiters, not loquacious, but blissful, pro
tected by a young gentleman who perpetually pulls the ear-blinds
up and down, arranges shawls, runs for glasses of water, and does
not read the paper.
For these travelers, few hints are needful. They stop only at
the grand hotels — they journey only on the broad thoroughfares
which lead to fashionable resorts, where the bridal trousseau will
be properly appreciated.
There is a larger class who journey for genuine pleasure, any
where that the mood of the moment, or the recommendation of
friends, or the descriptions of the Guide Books may lead them.
To the consideration of these travelers, we present a few timely
and (homely) suggestions.

200 THE tourist's guide.
A waterproof cloak is the best umbrella. Unless you are fond
of " spread eagles," do not wear a shawl upon a windy summit.
Ladies who wish while traveling to have a suit made in haste, will
find at 670 Broadway, Albany, one of the best Dress-making
establishmebts in the State.
At Saratoga, it is said that if you rub the outside rim of the ear
with a little cologne, or spirits of ammonia, you will keep delight
fully cool on the hottest day. This recipe is easily tried.
The mosquito, as a public singer, draws well, but never gives
satisfaction, whereupon the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher declares
that tobacco has its uses, as well as its abuses, and that it is one of
the best remedies for stings of insects. " Wet it so that the juice
shall start, put it on the place stung, and in one moment you are
all right."
To prevent Mosquitoes or Gnats from annoying you, — mix sweet
oil and tar in equal parts. All manner of insects abhor the smell
of tar. When therefore you fish, or hunt, or journey, where they
may be expected, pour a little into the palm of your hand, and
anoint your face with it. To most persons, the scent of tar is not
oifensive, and the mixture washes off on the first application of soap
and water, leaving no trace or taint. To reconcile the ladies to it,
we add the fact that it renders the skin soft and smooth as an
infant's. If a different protection is preferred, a mask may be made
from a yard and a half of fine Swiss mull, gathered with an elastic
band in the form of a sack or bag. Have the elastic so as to slip
over the head, which, when you have done, fix the elastic inside
the collar-band, and you can laugh defiance at mosquitoes and
other torments, but whether you can breathe very comfortably is
doubtful. This device is frequently resorted to in the Adiron
dacks, but in our opinion ia neither as agreeable or convenient as
the dose of tar and oil.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 201
The hands should be protected by a pair of common buckskin
gloves, to which an armlet of chamois should be fitted which will
reach to the elbow, and there button tightly around, leaving no
opening, however small, at the wrists, by which the gnats may
cre'ep up the arm.
The traveler who meets with " the vexing flea," will find a piece
of soft and fine flannel, if he will lie down on it at night, will be
preferred by his fleaship, who likes the softest and the warmest
couch. When the flea has taken up his camp for the night, upon
the flannel, by a little adroitness on your part, his career may be
speedily brought to an end.
The best cure for Sea sickness is to administer as much cayenne
pepper as the patient can possibly bear, in a bowl of hot broth or
soup. All nausea will soon disappear.
A simple, safe and certain cure for the colds in the head, which
are apt to annoy travelers, will be found in simple Tincture of
Iodine. Ladies especially are liable to bring away " a sneeze, a
wheeze and a sniffle," as one of their credentials, showing that they
have been " in the country," and Iodine is particularly recom
mended for their benefit. Hold the vial containing it for some
time in the hand, and on unstopping, it will be found that the
warmth of the hand causes the evaporation of the Iodine, which
must be faithfully inhaled several times — and the inhalations
repeated once in three minutes, until every symptom of the cold
has passed off. The bottle must be supplied with a glass stopper,
as Iodine will consume a cork.
This remedy is prescribed by a very celebrated physician, as
one which is attended with no ill effects.
In respect to the selection of boarding places for the summer,
if you have little ones to accompany, do consult their interests.

202

THE tourist's GUIDE.

JACKSON MILITARY INSTITIJTE
(Established in 1867,)
TARRYTOWN-ON-THE-HUDSON.
Location Healthy ; Buildings and Grounds ample and attractive. Instruc
tion thorough. Education, in Its true and proper sense, being the Just
development of all our powers. Physical, Mental, Moral and Social, 'lire
policy of the School is to send forth In the person of each Pupil a sound
mind in a sound body, regulated by sound morality ; producing, in all re
spects, the pattern of full-grown Men. Inspection Invited. Send for Circular.
EEV. F. J. JACKSON, M. A., Principal and Proprietor.

i:

UYACK-ON-THE-HUDSON.
Open June Ist, as a Stkiotly Fibst-Class Boahding Housb.
Olty Comforts, most Healthful Location, Laree, Airy, Well-Furnished
Rooms, Gas, Pure Water, Shaded Grounds, Magnificent Views, Boating and
Riding easily attainable. Good Table.
Transient as wel! as Permanent Boarders will be made welcome.

IFI^IOES I^EJLS03srj^.BXjE.

Address M. L. BIGELOW, Nyack-on-the-Hudson.
NORTH RIVER & NEW YORK
Sfliiiiif liiPiif.
NEW YORK OFFICE
On KCa-rrlson SU. i=»i©r.
The above Line of Boats run Daily (.Sundays excepted,)

Toucliing at all intermediate Landings.
Leaving; New York, foot of Harrison Street,
Every Afternoon at 3^, 4 and 4^ o'clock,
Returning to the City about 10 A. M.
FREIGHT CARRIED BYTHIS LINE

ON THE MOST REASONABLE TERMS.

1871.

E. LANE, Agent.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 203
Those city mothers who have growing children with pale faces,
slender forms, and delicate appetites, will reap their reward next
fall if they will discard fashion, and take their little ones where
they can have simple food, plenty of exercise and fresh air, and
where it is sufficient to dress them only neatly. A week or two at
a stylish watering place, as a change or amusement, may not be
harmful ; but the necessity imposed upon mothers at so many of
these resorts to dress children in the highest style, is ruinous to the
little folks, and an anxious care for the mother. Do not let the
children grow up prematurely into men and women. Keep them
fresh, simple and natural as long as possible.
As bathing is one of the most popular of summer amusements,
and one which is often attended with ill consequences, we copy the
directions which have been recently issued to bathers by the Royal
Humane Society of London. They are worthy of consideration :
" Avoid bathing within two hours after a meal.
" Avoid bathing when exhausted from any cause.
" Avoid bathing when the body is cooling after perspiration ; but
bathe when the body is warm, provided no time is lost in getting
into the water.
" Avoid remaining too long in the water ; leave the water imme
diately when there is the slightest feeling of chilliness.
" Avoid bathing altogether in the open air, if after having been
a short time in the water, there is a sense of chilliness with numbness
of the hands and feet.
" The vigorous and strong may bathe early in the morning on
an empty stomach.
" The young and those that are weak had better bathe three
hours after a meal ; the best time for such is from two to three
hours after breakfast.
" Those who are subject to attacks of giddiness and faintness,
and those who suffer from diseases of the heart, should not bathe
without first consulting their medical adviser."

204

THE tourist's GUIDE.

HIGHLAND FALLS, N. Y.
A SELECT BOARDING SCHOOL FOR BOYS,
Occupying the " Oak Grove Cottage" Premises, within two
miles of West Point MiLiTAiir Academy, aud near
Cozzens' Hotel.

THIRD YEAR OPENS SEPTEMBER 21st, 1871.
SPECIAL ADVANTAGES IN FITTINa FOR WEST POINT.
References and Information concerning its Location, Appointments,
Charges and Worli, will be given to Parents on applying personally, or by
letter to ROBERT DONALD, A. M., Principal.
NYACK-ON-THE-HUDSON.

Long and favorably known in St. Paul, Minnesota, has opened the
Clarendon for the Accommodation of Guests,
The Honse is beantifully situated ; Rooms well-arranged and airy, eomniandlng
Fine Views of the River.
NOTICE TO THE H-uf^OIES.
Among the many useful Inventions produced by the Nine
teenth Century, none occupies a moi-e prominent position
than that of the Sewing Machine. The ctieerful hum ot these
tireless little helpmates of our mothers and wives may now
be heard in almost every house in the land. They are made
in endless variety, and one is almost at a loss to choose when
there are so many of decided merit. One of the latest and
m(.st improved is the E.nriRE. manufactured by t.iie
Empire Seivin^ JTIncliinc Co., 294 Howcry, ]S.Y.:
SPEISDY, NOISEI.E.SS and dukablk; and we can conscien-
tinusly reoommeiul parties iu search of a Machine to give it an exaraluation
before concluding to purchase
Agents wanted, liberal discounts given.

/

OR, LOVE IN THE EMPIRE STATE.

<r-^oi

o^r-)

XIII.

iOT a day's ride from Port Kent, and not far distant
from the road that leads to North Elba, the Au Sable
river takes a short leap called the Maiden's Falls.
There are two love stories linked with the Maiden's
Falls, one of which is told freely, while the other is
whispered pitifully among the few who knew the young
girl to whom it relates.
A hundred years ago, or thereabouts, the Princess Nemona was
the belle and beauty of that Indian tribe whose home was usually
in this vicinity. A soldier from Quebec, while on an exploring
tour, met the red-lipped, graceful Indian girl, and regarded her
with an admiration which soon ripened into love.
He offered marriage, but wished, ere the nuptial knot was tied,
to obtain the consent of his parents to their union. He proposed
to visit Quebec to consult them, and then to come for his bride,

206

The Tourist's Guide.

FRKXSSflAN & BURR,

CUITS, $10.
^UITS, 415.
WUITS,$20.gUITS, *30.
liJUITS, $40.
«urrs, $50.
\

138 & 140 Fulton St., N. Y.
FRJEEinAIV * BURK have very great plea
sure in Inviting an inspection of their im
mense Stock for the present season. The choicest
groducts of the Loom, from all parts of the world,
ave been laid under contribution in making
selections, which will be found, both In the piece
and made up for immediate wear, for all ages
and all occasions.

\

/J OATS, $5. pANTS, 83.
rjOATS, S8. pANTS, S4.
r^ OATS, $10. pANTS, $6.
(-1 OATS, $18. p ANTS, $8.
/^ OATS, $24. pANTS, $10.
/ -< OATS,' S30. DANTS, S12.

yESTS, $2.
y ESTS, $3.
yESTS, $4.
yESTS, $5.
yESTS, $6.
yESTS, «8.

OOYS' CUITS, $5.
pOYS' UUITS, $8.
DOYS' UUITS, SIO.
DOYS' i<UITS, $12.
DOYS' gUITS, $15.
DOYS' «UITS, S20.

ORDERS BY LETTER PROMPTLY FILLED. *^
Freeman & Burr's Easy and Accurate System Cj
for SELF-JiEASUBE enables parties in any ^»
part of the country to order cloth ing direct from i^<^
them, with the certainty of receiving the most ."O
PERFECT FIT attainable. *v
Rules tor Self-Measure, Samples of Goods, Q
Price List, and Fashion Sheet, sent Free on ap- "^
plication. ^^

Nolselebs Link Motion, Lock Stitch Shuttle ;
Family Sewing Machine,
WILL
Hem, Braid, (Father, Tuck, Ruffle, Ookd,
Bind, Frill, Quilt, Fringe, Fell, Ac,
Challenges the World in Feifectioa of Work,
Strength and Beauty of Stitch, Durability of
Construction, and Sapidity of Uotion.

Call and Examine ! Send for Circulars !

-.-Vf

AGENTS -WANTED.

Manufactured by

BLEES' SEWING MACHINE CO.,
623 Broadway, New York,

THE tourist's GUIDE. 207
who had pledged herself to renounce her forest life, and accom
pany him to the home of the pale-face.
They parted by the Falls, and she vowed to sit at nightfall at
their tryst, during his absence, to dream of him, and await his
return. But he came not.
A year rolled slowly and heavily away. Nemona mourned for
him silently, as it befitted a Chief's daughter to mourn a faithless
lover. Tidings came at last, that he had been slain by hostile Indians
on his returning way. Then Nemona smiled ! His death was
preferable to his desertion ! She clad herself in royal robes, and
watched the sun set at their tryst, chanting a dirge for the " Brave
who was slain in the summer time."
When twilight threw its mantle over the earth — with the death-
wail still upon her lips — the maiden sprang lightly over the Falls,
and went to meet her lover on the " Happy Hunting Grounds,"
while her story is told at the " Maiden's Fall," to this very day !
A little, lonely hamlet is near these falls. Some forty scattered
houses constitute the entire settlement. Many of the inhabitants
are charcoal burners. A few are farmers who till the sterile soil.
To this spot, so nearly out of the world, thirty years ago came a
man who was stricken with sorrow more than with years, bringing
with him a motherless babe. He was a recluse and misanthrope.
Some said that losses of friends and property had unsettled his
reason in a measure.
Be that as it may, he built a small house, and imported costly
furniture to fill it. He had a trusty Scotch housekeeper, and his
child was consigned to her for care and training.

208

THE tourist's GUIDE.

Life Insurance Company of New York,

No. 313 BROADWAY,
Issues all the new forms of Policies, and presents 'as favorable terms as
any Company in the United States.
Thirty days' grace aliovired on each payment after
Ihe flrst year, and the policy held good during that time.
Dividends declared annually, and available in payment of
Premium, reduction of Loans, or increase of amount of insurance.
All of our Policies are Incontestible after five annual payments.
Poiicy-Holders share in the Profits of the Company, and
have a voice in the election and management of the Company.
All Policies, when the Premium has been paid in cash, have a Cash
Surrender Value, after three or more annual payments, and after five or
more annual payments an Annuity Bond will be granted in
lieu of the same for as many years as there have been annual cash premiums
paid. No Policy or Medical Fee charged.
All Policies Won- Forfeitable, on the principle of the Massa
chusetts Law. EDWARD A. JONES, President.
J, 0. HALSEY, Vice-President J. A. MORTIMORE, Secretary.
CHAS. G. PEARSON, Assistant Secretary.

eatfe, @H 8EM01 F®R ecRewtftR.

-A-O-EliTTS "W.A.IsrTEX3

THE tourist's GUIDE. 209
Adele S. blossomed into girlhood as fair and sweet a human
flower as ever grew into beauty in the wilderness. Of French
descent, she had inherited that bewitching grace from a long line
of courtly ancestors which would have rendered her charming, even
without the large hazel eyes, darker than her golden hair, which
lent such lustre to her beauty.
She was but thirteen — a child in years, and a woman at heart —
when a stranger visited her home. He came with velvet coat,
with rod and gun, a forerunner of that tide of sportsmen, which
summer now brings to the Adirondack region, every year. This
man was three or four and twenty years of age, handsome and
accomplished. He became the friend and lover of Adele S. Her father was
a recluse, and knew nothing of the acquaintance. There was no
one, therefore, to interpose. The simple-minded housekeeper, and
still more simple villagers, noted the intimacy with secret pride in
Adele and her lover, and no questions were asked on her behalf.
Their trysting-place was the Maiden's Fall, and there they
parted one August evening.
He returned to his city home, and Adele pined visibly after his
departure. In less than a month, fever laid its fervid hand upon
the child.
Time passed slowly, and hope went out with the sunlight of an
October day. The father stood by her bedside, and the child
knew that she was dying. Her last request was, that Arnold 
might be summoned to attend her funeral, for, said she, "he is
my lover, and promised to come next year and marry me."
Her request was heeded, and the handsome stranger arrived in
time to walk with her father as chief mourner in her funeral train.
14

210 THE tourists GUIDE.
All women know that it is beauty, rather than genius, which all generations
of men have worshipped in the sex. Can it be wondered at, then, that so much
of woman's time and attention should be directed to the means of developing
and preserving that beauty ! Women- know, too, that when men t^peak of the
intellect of women, they speak critically, tamely, coolly ; but when they come
to speak of the charms of a beautiful woman, their language and their eyes
kindle with enthusiasm which shows them to be profoundly, if not, indeed, ri
diculously in earnest. It is part of the natural sagacity of women to perceive
all this, and therefore employ every allowable art to become the goddess of that
adoration. Preach to the contrary as we may, against the arts employed by
women for enhancing their beauty, there still stands the eternal fact, that the
world does not prefer the society of an ugly woman of genius to that of a beauty
of less intellectual acquirements. The world has yet allowed no higher mission
to woman than to be beautiful, and it would seem that the ladies of the
present age are carrying this idea of the world to greater extremes than ever,
for all women now to whom nature has denied the talismanic power of beauty
supply the deficiency by the use of a most delightful toilet article, known as
the '' Bloom of Youth," which has been lately introduced into this country by
George W, Laird, a delicate beautifier, which smoothes out all indentations,
furrows, scars, removing tan, freckles, and discolorationsfrom the skin, leaving
the complexion clear, brilliant, and beautiful, the skin soft and smooth. With
the assistance of this American invention of a Lady's toilet, female beauty is
destined to play a larger part in the admiration of men and the ambition of
woman than all the arts employed since her creation. This most delightful and
harmless Toilet preparation has been established over ten years; during that
time over one million ladies have used it, and in every instance given entire
satisfaction. Ladies need have no fear of using this invaluable Toilet ac
quisition. One of the most eminent Physicians of New York city,
DR. LOUIS A. SAYRE,
After carefully examining the analysis prepared by the Chemist of the Me-
TROJPOLiTAN BoARD OF HEALTH, of the genuine Laird's *' Bloom of Youth,"
pronounced the preparation harmless, and entirely free from any ingredient in
jurious to health.

Ladies, beware of Dang^erous and Worthless Imitations of
Georjsre W. Laird's ^^ Bloom of Youth.?'
The unprecedented success of George W. Laird's ^^ Bloom of Youth" has in
fluenced unprincipled persons to counterfeit and imitate the *' Bloom of Youth."
The genuine preparation has achieved great popularity during the last ten
years it has been in use.
Mr. Laird, being determined to rid the market of counterfeits, and in order
to protect the public from imposition, and to prevent their purchasing not only
a worthless but a dangerous imitation of his reliable and Harmless beautifier
of the skin, has placed the label of this preparation under the charge of the
United States Government, and their Engraver, Mr. Joseph R. Carpenter, of
Philadelphia, has prepared a design, and engraved the same on steel plates, at
a large expense. The new label will embrace the United States Revenue stamp.
Any person or persons counterfeiting this label will be liable to imprisonment
by the United States authorities. Beware of worthless imitations. See that
the Revenue Stamp is printed on the front label, and the name G. W. Laird is
stamped in glass on the back of each bottle. No other is genuine. This
delightful preparation is
Sold by all Druggists and Fancy Goods Dealers,

THE tourist's GUIDE. 211
The excitement and sympathy of the village people was intense.
He remained among them, petted and pitied and wept over. The
fever then attacked the father of Adele, and Arnold was his
attendant till the old man bequeathed to him his slender property,
and died.
When the new heir had entered into possession, he went away.
The house of the dead man was sold in the following spring. It
brought but a small sum. His income had "been derived from
money invested in English stocks. The very day on which the
last payment made upon this house was remitted, a party of sports
men arrived from B., the home of Arnold. When this became
known, another fact was straightway developed — that Arnold, in
the interim between his leaving Adele in the previous August, and
his return to attend her fuiteral in October, had married a lady to
whom he had been long bethrothed.
Whether he had played his part in this comic-tragedy in the first
place simply from pure love of acting, and afterward tarried from
hope of gain, or whether some darker reasons influenced his course,
will never be known.
There are those who believe that he poisoned the man whose
money he inherited ! There are those who would tar and feather
the handsome gentleman even at this late day, if he ventured to
return to the scene of his early exploits ! But he lives and thrives,
a prominent lawyer in the City of Brotherly Love.
We heard this story last summer, by the Maiden's Fall, and not
far from a simple slab, lettered —
"Adele,
"Aged Thirteen Years.
" Erected by Her Mourning Lover."
Who wrote the inscription, we know not ; Arnold's money paid
for it — so they say !

212 THE tourist's guide.

ROCKLAND FEMALE INSTITUTE
onsr THE HTJHDSoisr, isr. "sr.

This is an Incorporated Acadeoiic and Collegiate Seminary for the
Education of Young Ladiis, under the supervision of the Regents of
the University of this State.
It is complete in all its appointments, full of healthy life and vigor in
all its departments, and keeps pace with the progressive spirit and the
wants of the age.
It has a regular graduating course of Study, embracing the branches
usually deemed essential to a substantial and finished Education.
Especial attention is also given to the Fine Arts and to the polite
accomplishments which flt woman to adorn society and the home circle.
The departments of Music, Painting and the Modern Languages are
well sustained and eminently successful.
Much attention is given to the cultivation of refined manners and to
the moral bearing of the Young Ladies of the Institute.
The Fall Term of 1871 will commence September 20th.
For a Catalogue with full particulars, address
Rev. L. DELOS MANSFIELD, A. M,,
President.

^t « Hi tfltt

A Parody of Saxe's Rhyme of the Rail.

BT S. S. COLT.

<r-#^(

¦—sr^

XIV.
CRAMBLING thro' the forest.
Tumbling over ridges.
Driving under fir boughs,
Tilting on log bridges —
Wheezing up the hill-side,
Drinking at the fountain —
Bless me, this is pleasant.
Climbing up the mountain !
Men of different " standing "
In the eye of Fame,
Are tugging thro' the " debris "
Pretty much the same ;

214 THE tourist's guide.
Smart and clumsy people,
Birds of every feather.
On the mountain hillocks.
Tumble round together.
Gentleman from Ireland
Calls the mountains tall —
Gentleman from H 'England
Thinks them rather small —
Gentleman from Gotham,
With a Wall street mein.
Thinks these " rocks " the biggest
He has ever seen !
Gentleman quite old
Asks, " How far to the summit ?"
Lady young and handsome
Has sadly smashed her bunnit ;
Gentleman fat and heavy.
Sober as a vicar.
Bumps around as dreadfully
As if he'd been in liquor.
Stranger on the right
Looking very sunny.
Is obviously telling
The ladies something funny.
Let us turn inquisitor,
For the smiles are growing " wide ;"
'Faith, the man is quoting
From Colt's, Tourist's Guide.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 215
Ancient single lady
Very dubiously says.
She would not like aloive
To traverse rugged ways ;
Roguish looking fellow
Mutters to the stranger —
She ought to be accustomed
To such a kind of danger !
One thoughtful soul is careful
Of the luncheon casket —
Knowing we'll be hungry,
Tightly holds the basket ;
Feeling that a smash.
If it came, would surely
Make an end of all things
Rather prematurely !
Scrambling thro' the forest.
Tumbling over ridges.
Driving under fir boughs.
Tilting on log bridges —
Wheezing up the hill-side,
Drinking at the fountain —
Bless me, this is pleasant,
Climbing up the mountain !

216 THE tourist's guide.
ARE YOU GOING TO NEW YORK?
If so, and you wish to stop where you can FEEL AT HOME,
and get GOOD FOOD HEALTHFULLY PREPARED, and
PLENTY OF IT, 111 lllUIIM
Nos. 13 and 15 Laight Street.
Horse Cars pass near the door to all parts of the city, making
it a very convenient stopping place for persons visiting New York,
either upon business or pleasure. Open at all hours, day and
night. Board by the day or week, at reasonable rates. Rooms
can be secured in advance by writing. Address
WOOD & HOLBROOK, Proprietors,
Nos. 13 & 15 Laight Street, New York.
HERALD OF HEALTH,
$2.00 a year; 20 cents a nuinber ; 3 months
on trial 25 cents.
Every subscriber for one year who sends 12.00 will be entitled
to a PREMIUM BOOK, entitled
HINTS TOWARD PHYSIOAL PERFECTION,
Or the PhHosopliy of HnmaD Beaaty,
BY D. H. JA.CQXTES.
Showing how to acquire and retain Bodily Symmetry, Health, and
Vigor, and to avoid the infirmities and deformities of Age. It
contains 300 pagos, and nearly 100 fine Engravings. The price
of the book is $1 50, yet we propose to give it free to each sub
scriber who sends us $2 00. Address
WOOD & HOLBROOK, 15 Laight St., New York.

THE TOURIS'l'S GUIDE. 217

THE CONNECTICUT MUTUAL LIFE
[From " The Spectator" for ApHl.\
A leading Life Company has entitled itself to the gratitude of all who take
any interest In life insurance, by the issue of a condensed statement which
covers the transactions of the company for twenty-five years. The figures given
in this statement are really an epitome of the life business in this country from the
outset to the present time. They represent the operations of a company whose
whole history has been a record of honorable dealing and remarlsable prosperity.
The statement referred to gives the total receipts and. disbursements of the com
pany for twenty-five years, ending December 31, 1870, and is as follows:
Tol.il premiums received  $49,676,293
Paid losses and returned to policy holders  23,445 375
26,230,918
Required for re-insurance, Dec 1870  21,859,940
Balance of premium receipts  4.370 978
Add interest received and accrued  !  10,352.'702
14.723.680
Deduct taxes of twenty-five years  715,206
14.008,474
Twenty- five years' management expenses  5,560,750
Surplus, December 31, 1870  $8,447,724
Liabilities, S652,779.
Of nearly $60,000,000 paid in by policy-holders, we find that 22.78 per cent was
repaid in the form of death claims and, by a curious coincidence, another 22.78 per
cent retumed to them as the amount of their payments in excess of the cost of in
surance. So that the policyholders are shown to have really received back nearly
half the amount they paid in and their insurance besides. There seems to be small
room for complaint here ; and, as we happen to know, the insured rather incline to
contemplate their connection with the company with considerable complacency.
When we inquire further, we find that, of what remained of the premium receipts,
nearly $22,000,000 is still required, (and reserved most sacredly,) as the re-insur
ance valuation of unexpired policies ; and yet there are $4,000,000 left. The in
terest received and accrued upon investments during the twenty-five years, (over
$10,000,000,) has sufficed to pay 60 per cent of all the losses and expenses conse
quent upon operations extended through a quarter of a century. And, after all
these years a surplus is reported of $8,000,000, which may either be divided among
the members or retained for their security against whatever contingency the future
may have in store.
The practical results of the life insurance scheme, as here exemplified, prove that
the business is not essentially, nor necessarily, one of mystery, contingency, or ex
travagance. We have shown that the insured themselves have received hack,
already, 46.66 per cent of the premiums they paid, while a divisible surplus of 16
per cent upon these premiums stillremains. The business has been transacted at a
ratio of expense which is exceptionally low, we admit, but which only shows what
judicious and economical management can accomplish. The expenses of manage
ment bear a ratio of 11 per cent to premiums, and only 9.35 to total receipts. The
commissions paid for the procurement of $50,000,000 of premiums average only 9.02
per cent. The average rate of interest realized on investments [exclusive of pre
mium notes] is stated to be 8.21 per cent.
We welcome this full record, therefore, as a sufficient reply to all the attacks made
upon life insurance, and as pointing out the path which every honest life manager
should deem it a privilege to tread.
PECK & HILLMAN, General Agents, State of N. Y.,
STATE STREET, TROY, AND 442 BROADWAY, ALBANY.

218 THE TOURIS'l'S GUIDE.

illW/'B

^^4*

Iff
fiyTr IS often said that it is not possible for a comic
'^ ' iper to live and flourish in America, because all the
l^'^i^^'' 'apers deal more or less in humor, and carry spice
^xj^* and fun through their columns, or at least have a
tunny department, wherein they gather much matter of that
nature, so that a journal devoted to comicality is apt to be
palling to the taste, and soon voted a bore.
It is rather an encouraging sign of the interest our reading
public take in matters of morals and religion, that nearly all
the secular papers are, in these days, paying special attention
to such things, and, particularly on Saturdays and Mondays,
make a point of furnishing some religious reading to their
patro'ns. However, this is not likely to run the religious
weeklies out of their sphere ; because, in the first place, the
dailies don't do enough of it to replace those specially devoted
to it, and then, too, a large part of the matter consists of cita
tions from the religious papers themselves, or discussions of
articles from their columns.
The public interest in religious journalism seems to be at its
height. There are many representing the various religious
denominations and churches, and some few calling themselves
" unsectarian," and laboring to bring about rather a unison of
christian sentiment among all the sects. Of these, one of the
most notable is the one edited by Rev. Henry "Ward Beecher —
The Christian Union. Indeed, nothing that this strong

THE tourist's GUIDE. 219
man takes hold of seems to fail to secure at once a large share
of public attention and favor. The fastidious, critical Nation
says that it is " the ablest, and and destined to become the
most popular of American religious journals." It has been in
existence not yet two years, but its circulation has attained an
extraordinary figure, quite overleaping dozens of the long es
tablished papers, and, it is said, larger than any other religious
journal in the country with one exception. In addition to the
admirable religious spirit of its columns, the careful literary
tone, the very interesting general articles and the capital
selected miscellany, this paper has had a motive power in its
publishers, who offer to their subscribers some very attractive
things. This last year they bought the renowned steel-plate
known as " Marshall's Household Engraving of Washington,"
and giving away a fine impression of it to each subscriber
to the paper, ($3 being the yearly subscription price,) have had
to send out over 30,000 of these fine engravings in less than
eight months ! For the next year they offer the Washington
still to those who want it, but their main attraction, outside of
their excellent paper, is the pair of Chromos known as " Wide
Awake " and " Fast Asleep "—of whioh thousands have been
sold at $10 in the picture stores. These pretty English Chro
mos cannot be bought any cheaper now, but they can be had
foe nothing by subscribing to The Christian Union for
one year. The address of the publishers is J. B. Ford & Co.,
37 Park Place, New York. They attend to all subscriptions
sent them, and give employment to canvassing agents, hun
dreds of whom made handsome pay last year canvassing for
the paper and the picture. We predict another " rush of sub-
^ scribers " for the coming year.

f a «g

^

r~^ff^'

^.JtfT^)

XV.
HUS. our journey Through the Empire State draweth
to a close. We have pursued no beaten path — have
wandered to and fro, as happy summer Tourists do,
passing commendation or criticism upon the places we
have visited, as our own experience and judgment have
justified our doing.
To that which has been told before concerning the
places we have seen, we have added information and items relating
to the Past, Present and Future, according as the guardian angel
of the " chiel whae has been takin' notes " has cast such favors in
our way.
In compiling the Tourist's Guide, we have traversed the
length and the breadth of our noble State, and have nearly every
where found charming scenery, and refined and hospitable society
— fair towns and cities from which we were loth to depart. Grood
people of this great-hearted State, it has been OMr, experience that
ye more gladly "welcome the coming," than ye " speed the parting
guest ! "

THE tourist's GUIDE. 221
For aid in writing and illustrating the Tourist's Guide, we
desire most gratefully to acknowledge our indebtedness to the
kindness and courtesy of Mr. H. F. Phinney, of Cooperstown,
N. Y., whose interest in every effort, however humble, whioh tends
to gather in a popular form such recollections of the past, and
records of the present, as New York State people will not " willingly
let die," has led him to place at our disposal much that is of interest,
which would have otherwise been to us, in a great measure, unat
tainable. Our best thanks are due to this gentleman for the use of the fine
engravings of Cooperstown, and Leatherstooking's Palls, which
adorn our pages.
To the great Publishing Firm of Messrs. Harper Brothers, of
New York, our acknowledgments are due, for the views of the
residence of Fenimore Cooper, and of his grave — these superb
and costly engravings having been recently procured, at great
expense, for their own publications.
The genial kindness of Professor Eastman, of Poughkeepsie —
the courtesies of Mr. W. Jennings Demorest, of New York, the
popular publisher of " Demorest's Magazine," and " Young Amer
ica" — and of Mr. S. R. Wells, of New York, with the valuable
assistance of Messrs. J. B. Ford & Co., also claim our grateful
recognition. The views of Manhattan Island, in 1609, Neiuw Amsterdam in
1650, Minuit's Purchase of the Island of Manhattan, which is a
copy of the large painting now in the possession of the New York
Historical Society — and Washington's Head Quarters at New
burgh, are taken by permission of Messrs. Ford & Co., the pub
lishers, from Hon. S. S. Randall's " History of the State of New
York," which is the only attempt to condense within small and

222 TUB tourist's GUIDE.
compact limits, the story of our great State. Mr. Randall, who
has been for years the Superintendent of Public Instruction in
New York city, has done a work which needed to be done, and
done it well, in presenting this book to the people and to the use of
our schools.
From other sources, too, we have received aid and encourage
ment, in our labor of writing of the Empire State, which is now
ended here, with a pleasant, " Pare you well," to readers and
friends.

THE TOURIS'l'S GUIDE. 223
tiIC3-HT A-INTID I=R,OFIT.A.BX.E "W O in 2C
Three I'opular Publications tor Canvassiu^.
"A. X<XBR.A.FtY OF POETRY A.M^I3 3. OWTCi,'
A choice compilation of 500 volumes in one. 800 pages, 8vo., illustrated.
Edited by WILLIAM CULLEN BRY.ANT.

THE LIFE OF JESTTS, THE CHRIST,
BY HENRY WARD BEECHER.
About 450 pages, 8 vo, illustrated. A great work by a great man .
T H E CHRISTIAN UNI O N ,
A Weekly Family Journal. "The most able and popular of American
Religious Periodicals. Editor, HENRY WARD BEECHER.
To every Subsoritier is given away, either Marshall's Steel Engraving of
" Washington,'' (price S5,) or a pair of English Chroms, (price SIO.) Subscription
price 83 00 per year. Agents may address f .r circulars and terms,
.f . B. FOKD *: CO., 27 Park Place, New York.
Ia! C3rI^DE3.A.T OrT'ESR!
Only $3 for $1 1 in Value.
The beautifva and artistic Chromo, " ISN'T SHE PRETTY."
Size, 13 X 17 alter Lillie M.Spencer, retail price, $8 00; sent by mall securely
done up, post free, as a premiuir\to every yearly subscrlbur 10
DEMOREST-'S II.I^XTSTR.A.'XED l«i:01»TIir.Y,
acknowledged the most practical, useful, original Parlor Magazine.
" Isn't She Pretty," Is a beautiful Chromo, a splendid Parlor Picture, and a valuable
work of art: ills highly linished, mounted and varnished, and worthmorc than double
Uw cost of subscription, and together with Dkmoeest's Monthl"» affords an opportunity
lor the investment of Three Dollars such as may n.ever occur again. Do not fail to sub
scribe for " Dkmorkst's Magazine," and you will never be willing lobe without it.
Address, W. JEIVNINUS DI;:inURE;S'r, 838 Broadway, N. Y.
¦ Specimen Copies of the Latest Nos. of the Magazine mailed free on receipt of 26 cents.
""^ ' THOMSON'S NEW STYLES
GLO VE FITTIUJG CORSET.
THE VENTIIiATlSG OR
SUMMER COESET
Entirely NEW in style and
perfect in shape.
I The CURVILINEAR, rich
£ 5 and elegant in fluisli.
H § Also, a lower cost
J £ " GLOVE-FITTING,"
" _ than ever belore offered ; which,
with our former regular
qualities, make the as
sortment complete.
These Justly celebrated
PATENT
GLOVE-FITllNG CORSETS
are constantly gaining favor in
the United States, as well as
in foreign countries.
Always ask lor THOMSON'S OeniUne Glove-Fitting Corsets, every
Corset being stamped with the name and Trade Mark, the Crown.
For Sale by flrst class Dealers, Everywhere.
THOMSON, LANGDON & CO.,
Sole Patentees, 391 Broadway, N. Y,

«

a

224 THE TOURIS'l'S GUIDE.
Linen Collars^ Cuffs, UndsrslecYss,
SHIRTS AND SHIRT FRONTS,
Of Superior Quality, constantly on Hand, or made to order. A full assort
ment of the above g.iods, together with a Complete Stock of
Ladies' and Gents' Furnishing Goods,
AT
l^O. 84 HITJIDSOnsr STI?.EET,
TW^O DOORS WEST OF SOUTH PEARL.

POPULAR SHIRT AND COLLAR LAUNDRY.
Collars and Cuffs Laundried with Domestic Finish.
TRIMBLES QPEIRA HOUSS^
No. 31 South Pearl Street, Albany, N. Y.
ACADEMY OF MUSIC RE-BUILT.
LUCIEN BARNES, Manager.
^;a^h:eit ircDxr atisit ^lb^ist-z-
GO TO SEE
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THEATRE IN THE WORLD.
The Most Beautiful Drop Curtain in America.
THE FINEST SCENERY OUT OF NEW YORK.
THE BEST ORCHESTRA EVER OUT OF NEW YORK.
The Best Company in the Country.
The only First Class Theatre in the State of New York out of
the City of New York.
THE BEST STARS APPEAR FROIH TIME TO TIME,
Giving to its Patrons a varied entertainment, and everything done in a
FIRST CLASS STYLE.
SPECIAL FEATURE- a^-MA-THSTEES I'm
WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS.

THE TOURISlfs GUIDE.

225

THE TWEDDLE HALL
101141 Sf ®11,
83 st.a.t:e ST.,
ALBANY, N. Y.

TBE WAKEFIELD
Eart'li Closet

Is by all odds the best
yet patented. Send
to Wakefield Earth
Closet Co., 3fi Dey St.,
New York, for Des
criptive pamphlet,
or call and examine.

CHINJ^. TEA. C01VII>A.NY,
Wholesale and Retail Dealers in
137 MAIN STREET, ROCHESTER, N. Y.
ysT . H . BRUCE,
BatMnSt Shaving and Hair Dressing Saloon.
Nine Chairs in constant Operation,
Masonic Block, cor. Buffalo and Exchange Streets, Eochester.
DR. FtOBT. IXA.iyEIl.TON'S
]>,a:BrDICA.Ij IIsrSTITXTTB.
Opposite Congress Spring Park, Saratoga Springs, N. Y. Hot, Cold, Medicated Elec-
tro-Uhemical Baths, Oxygenated Air, Sweedish Movement, and the Health Lift used in
the treatment of FEMALE, LUNG, AND CHRONIC UISEABBS. Send for a Circular,
KivlDg an account of irs advantages, Certificates, Kemarkable Cures, Testimonials, He-
ferences &o. During the Summer, season the House is open to the public, and aftbrds
FIB8T CLASS ACCOMMODATIONS at Heasonable Bates.
EXCELSIOR SPEINS, SARATOGA SPRINGS. N. Y.

From Fordvce Earlier, M. D., of New York, Professor of Obstetrics and Diseases
of ¦Women in tlie Bellevue Hospital Medical College.
I make great use of the various mineral waters in my praetice, and I regard the "Ex
celsior" Spring Water of Saratoga as the best salme and alkaline laxative of this class.
Sparkling with Carbonic Acid gIs, it is to most persons very agreeable^to the taste, and
prompt In action as a gentle diuretic and cathartic.

Fordyce Barker, M. D.

SARATOGA WATER CURE,
AND HYGIENIC INSTITUTION.
Located on Broadway, opposite Congress and Park Springs.

N. &. B. T. BEDORTHA, M. D., Physicians and Sargeons.

Snecial Attention given to the use of the varlpns Mineral Waters.
ot^l kinds, such as Hot, Cold, Spray, Sulphur Vapor, -&0., &o.
For Circular, address

Baths

N. Sc B. T. BEDORTHA, M. D., Saratoga Springs, N. Y.

226

THE tourist's GUIDE.

DR. F£LIX GOURAUD'S
ORIENTAL CREAM or MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER.
This preparation has acquired a reputation which makes it sought after by
ladies coming from or going to the most distant countries, for it has no equal
or rival In its beautifying qualities. In removing Tan, Precliles, Sallowness,
Moth, Patches, &o., its efleots are almost magical. Like all other of Dr. Gou-
raud's preparations, this has extended its sale until It has become a specialty
by its own merits, and is not the creature of mere advertising notoriety. It
is recommended Irom one customer to another on actual knowledge of its
value and utility. Prepared by Dr. Felix Gouraud, i% Bond street (removed
from 453 Broadway), New York, and to be had of all Druggists. Established
31 years.
Gouraud's Italian Medicated Soap cures Moth, Patches, Pimples, Freckles,
Sallowness, Red Nose, Erysipelas, and all skin deformities. Established 31
years. Depot 48 Bond street. New Tf ork. Laboratory 55 Great Jones street.
J8®= Beware of Lotions for the Skin containing mineral astringents utterly ruinous to
the complexion, and by their repellant action positively injurious to health, frequently
taking off the skin.
emporium: of jt^sheions.
DRESS AND CLOAK MAKING IN THE LATEST
Styles and on Short Notice.
A Perfect Fit Warranted. Call and see our Patterns.
670 BROADW^AY, ALBANY, N. Y,
S. T. Taylor's admirable System Taught. Also, Mrs. Leake's Diagram, two
of the best Systems in use. Ladies are Invited to test them. Satisfaction
given or money refunded. Cutting, in all its branches, done at mode
rate prices, aud satisfaction warranted in every case.

H. N. GARDNER,
Wholesale Dealer in
TANaER SOUND & BAY OYSTEES,
666 Broadway, Albany, N. Y.
Clam in the Shell, by the barrel or looo.
, Oranges and Lemons by the box, &c.
A. ARMBRUST,
MERCHAMT TAIIOH*
Clothing made to order in the
neatest and best manner, and in the
latest styles.
5 Clinton Avenue, Albany, N. Y,
E. A. HOBBS & CO.,
FAMILY GROCERIES,
Foreign and Domestic Fruits,
Havana Cigars, Hermetically Sealed
Goods, etc.
No. 7 Clinton Avennc, illiany, N. T.

(Prom Troy,)
Custom Manufacturer of the
Celebrated
Perfect Fitting Dress Shirts.
Collars, Cuffs and Furnishing Goods
at low Prices.
610 Broadway, Albany, N, Y,
G. W. GUTHINGER,~
Dealer iu
Furniture, & Upholsterer,
690 BROADWAV.
Window Shades, Mattresses, Pillows,
 Bolsters, &c.
Fashionable Hatter,
654 BROADWAY,
ALBANY, N. Y.

THE TOURIST* S GUIDE. 227
MAIN STREET, CATSKILL, N. Y.
Hi. .A., i^unsoasr, :B*-ro-^ri&-toir.
New Brick Honse, and New Furniture Throughout. Carriages and Omnibus
to the Boats and Cars. Terras Reasonable.
STAGES (FOR ALL POINTS WEST.

Centrally Located. Terms moderate.
CHAS. B. MILLER, Proprietor.
2sr03- 81, 83, 85 "WA-IEaiEaiBIsr STIRIBET.
Mimmf Wm§®w §m%lmw ioBfrnif ^

MANUFAOTUEEKS OF ALL STYLES
PAPER COLLARS and CUFFS.
SPECIALTY,
619 BROADWAY, ALBANY, N. Y. 
DELAVAN HOUSE,
CLARENDON HOTEL,
SARATOGA SPRINGS,
CHAS. XS. ImEIiAND,
PROPRIETOR.

228 THE tourist's guide.
NiW yORK I'D TROY STEAMBOAT CO.
EVENING LINE DIRECT FROM
TROY AND ALBANY to NEW YORK.

Capt. F. TESOIV, CommandinK.
OOlsTlsrEiOTIOTJT,
Capt. Li. D. DIlinilVG, Commanding''
Leave TROY every Evening for New Yorlc (except Saturdays) at 6 o'clock,
stopping at ALBANY until the arrival of the Evening Cars from Saratoga
Springs and the North.
THE STEAMER COLDEN GATE,
Belonging to this Companv, leaves Troy every Evening at T o'clock (except
Saturdays and Sundays), to convey passengers for the above.steamers
down to them at Albany, Free of Charge.

Hudson River Railroad Tickets received, and Passage with State Room
allowed for each of them..
Freight handled with care, and Forwarded with Express Despatch,
RUSSELL P. CLAPP, Sup't., Troy. N. Y.

C

THE HUDSON RIVER BY DAYLIGHT,
THE DAY LINE OF STEAMBOATS

Leave New York, foot of Vestry St. at 8.30 A. M,,
And 34th St. at 8.45 A. M., daily, (Sundays excepted,)
Iianding at Yonkers, (Tarrytown and Nyack by Ferry' Boat,)
Cozzens, West Point, Cornwall, Newburgh, Poughkeepsie,
Rhinebeck, Catskill and Hudson, reaching Albany at 6 P. M.
Eetuming, leaves Albany from foot of Hamilton St. at 9 A. M., arriving
at Albany at 6 P. M.
AFTERNOON BOAT FROM NEW YORK.
The favorite Steamboat
For Newburgh, Poughkeepsie and Rondout, landing at Cozzens,
¦West Point, Cornwall and Milton, leaves New York from
Vestry Street Pier at 3J^ o'clock P. M. Returning, leaves
Rondout at 5.30 A. M., arriving at New York at 11 A. M.
ISAAC L. WELSH, G. T. A.

THE TOURIS'l'S GUIDE. 229

There are thousands of " Letters" written from the Metropolis every year,
yet the story of its shows and pleasures, its charities and business enterprises,
is never exhausted. The rogue and the upright man of business jostle each
other in the streets, while tbe ^^Bivorce-without-publioity" lawyer, rooms in
the same building with tbe city missionary, and the reports of the press are
only incomplete attempts to winnow the chaff from the wheat. There arc
thousands of business enterprises in New York conducted by mon of honor apd
sagacity, whose business might be ten times quadrupled if it were known
throughout the country that they can guarantee remunerative employment to
an immense number of worthy and energetic persons.
We have faith to believe that practical benevolenco will yet devise some
labor exchange upon a gigantic scale, by which tbe '^laborers who stand idle^'
may be directed to the work which will yield them the most ready and sure
returns. These wore our thoughts as we recently visited the warerooms of the

At 142 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK CITY.
We believe there are branch establishments in other parts of the city; but this
ofBoe, with its unpretending engraved sign, is the centre of tbe company's large
wholesale and retail trade.
Entering, we are shown into a Ladies' Reception Koom, and flnd ourselves
attended by a pleasant lady, who exhibits articles which are required in every
household, and yet which cannot generally be purchased at the stores. Several
factories are running constantly to supply the goods for this-firm. Many of the
goods are patented by the Eugenie Manufacturing Co., and can be obtained
only of them. Numerous other" articles may perhaps be obtained elsewhere,
but the assortment is larger and tbe prices are lower here, on account of their
facilities for manufacturing. Ladies' Dress Shields, Children's Bibs of
pure and perfumed rubber, and of various. sizes, are kept here. Rubber Gloves,
the value of which to those who wish to protect their hands while engaged in
household duties, which naturally "leave their mark," can scarcely be esti
mated. Skirt supporters, Bay State Corsets, the best in the market, and also
every, device for convenience and comfort in which rubber plays a part. We
cannot possibly enumerate here, but would say to those interested who live at
a distance, "send for a circular." Ladies who seek profitable employment
cannot do better than to take an agency for tbe sale of such goods. There is
no risk, and the profits are very fair. They are articles which are needed
everywhere. Many a person who keeps a small fancy store might largely in
crease the profits of business by adding these goods to their stock. For terms,
etc., apply to the Company, 142 Fulton Street, New York. We will only say
in conclusion, that this firm is eminently reliable. They may be trusted to deal
honorably in every particular with their agents.
As the Season opens, there are many who may find it profitable to canvass in
the villages and towns of this State, who would perhaps scarcely care, from a
feeling of pride, to engage in the same business in the cities in which they re
side. We trust that these brief suggestions may be of benefit to some who
desire "Paying Employment." Our "letter" has been written with a view
to their benefit alone, by a Lady who has been much benefitted by the produc
tions of the Eugenie Manufacturing Company, and one who aims to befriend
her sex.

230 'THE tourist's guide.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
rim TESTS THE MEHITS OF AU THINGS.
1840  TO  18 TI.
PERRY DAVIS'S

Has been tested in every variety of climate, and by almost every
nation known to Americans. It is the almost constant companion
and inestimable friend of the missionary and the traveler, on sea and
land, and no one should travel on our LAKES OR RIVERS WITH
OUT IT.
Pain Killer was the First, and is tbe Only Permanent Pain Reliever.
Since the PAIN KILLER was first introduced, and met with such un
surpassed sale, many. Liniments, Reliefs, Panaceas and other Remedies
have been offered to the public, but not one of them has ever attained
the truly enviable standing of the PAIN KILLER.
t^y^Hrr IS THIS SOP -©a
It is because DAVIS'S PAIN KILLER is what it claimed to be, a
Reliever of Pain. Its merits are unsurpassed.
If you are suffering from INTERNAL PAIN, Twenty or Thirty Drops
in a Little Water will almost instantly cure you. There is nothing to
equal it. In a few moments it cures Colic, Cramps, Spasms, Heart
burn, Diarrhoea, Dysentary, Flux, Wind in the Bowels, Sour Stomach,
Dyspepsia, Sick Headache. In sections of the country where ,
FEVER AND AGUE
Prevails, there is no remedy held in greater esteem. Persons traveling
should keep it by them. A few drops, iu water, will prevent sickness
or bowel troubles from change of water.
From foreign countries the calls for PAIN KILLER are great. It is
found to cure CHOLERA, when all other remedies fail. When used
externally, as a Liniment,, nothing gives quicker ease in Burns, Cuts,
Bruises, Sprains, Sting's from Insects, and Scalds. It removes the iire,
and the wound heals like ordinary sores. Those suffering with Rheum
atism, Gout, or Neuralgia, if not a positive cure, they find the PAIN
KILLER gives them relief when no other remedy will. It gives
Instant Relief from Aching Teeth.
From 1840 to this day, 1871, (Thirty-one Years,) PERRY DAVIS'S
PAIN KILLER has had no rival.
Every housekeeper should keep it at hand, to apply it on the first attack
of any Pain. It will give satisfactory relief, and save hours of suffering.
Do not trifle with yourselves by trusting untried remedies. Be sure
you call for, and get the genuine PAIN KILLER, as many worthless
nostrums are attempted to be sold on the great reputation of this valu
able medicine. Directions accompany each bottle.
O- Price 25 Cents, 50 Cents, and $1.00 per Bottle, "©a

THE tourist's GUIDE. 231

CAMILLE PERFUME
FOR THE
Sold by all Druggists.
PREPARED ONLY BY
CHA.RLES M. MORRIS,
G IVrORTOIff STRBET,
ALBANY, N. Y.
One application warranted to retain its fragrance one week.
Use it and convince yourselves.
Samples furnished to Dealers, if desired, before purchasing.
PYLE'S O.K. SOAP,

.A-IsriD

CREAM TARTAR,
A FIRST CLASS ARTICLE,
Designed for the best Family Trade,
AND WILL SPEAK FOE THEMSELVES ON TRIAL.
Sold by First Class Grocers Everywhere.
JAMES PYLE, Mannfactnrer,
350 WASHINGTON STREET,

232

THE tourist's GUIDE.

FIRST PREMIUM COOK STOVE.

_J

¦f'^'^

"7 - r i

- — _jji

THE IMPROVED

A-warded the First Premium, at the Ne-w York State Fair, 18T0.
ManHfactured by SWETT, QUIMBY & PERRY,
No. 377 River Street, TROY, N. Y.
THE BEST COLORING EXTANT

AND THE EASIEST APPLIED, IS

liSlELL &
COI.ORIFIC.
It Colors the Hair to a Beautiful Brown or Black by
merely moistening the Hair with the Colorific.
It does not Crisp or Burn the Hair, but renders it Smooth and Glossy
without any other Preparation.
It contains no Lead or Sulphur, or any article the least injurious
For Sale by all PATENT MEDICINE DEALERS and DRUGGISTS
generally.
H. C. BOSWELL, Proprietor,
155 Grand Street, Williamsburgh, S. T.
Depot in the City of New York, 9 Dey Street.

THE tourist's GUIDE.

233

(Late Fowler & Wells,)
389 BROADWAY, N. Y.

Among the many places of interest in New York city, strangers
and others should not overlook The Phrenological Museum at 389
Broadway. Here are many things to interest and instruct. Especially
would »e call attention to the fine collection of casts. Here we have
busts (not models) of the most noted of good and bad men — among
them casts of Aaron Burr, Horace Mann, WilUam Oullen Bryant,
Horace Greeley, Napoleon the First, Laura Bridgman, and a long list of
others far too numerous to mention here. There is also a large collec
tion of human and animal crania with an innumerable number of pic
tures and portraits. The rooms are always open and free. Mr. S. R.
Wells, the present proprietor, is also Editor and Publisher of the
Phrenological Journal, a Magazine of undoubted excellence, and
Publisher of a large list of useful and practical Books.

234 THE tourist's guide.

ift7i r^^^^^gg'^*'^lu^7:^....A 1871.

'OAllSS, (Sundays included,) AX
S r. U. ta Pier 30, Mli Eivsr.
iFOOT oip os:-a.:m:bei?.s st.
The Magnificent Steamers
COMMANDER A. Q. SIMMONS,
P R O T I iS E N O E
COMMANDER B. M. SIMMONS,
The Most Direct Route to Tannton, Middleboro, Plymouth, New
Bedford,''Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, the South Shore of
Massachusetts, and all points on the Cape Cod Railway.
GRAND PROMENADE CONCERT
On Board each Steamer every Evening,
By HALL'S Celebrated Boston Brass, String and Reed Bands.
For Tickets or State Rooms apply at
241 Broadway; 529 Broadway, corner of Spring Street ; Broadway, corner 23d
Street ; No. 4 Court Street, Brooklyn, or at tlie Office on the Pier.
Freight Received up to 5 o'oclock P. M.
M. R. SIMONS, Managing Birctor. JAMES FISE, JR., President.
H. H. MANGAM, Gen'l Freight Ag't. CHAS. B. KIMBALL, Gen'l Pass. Ag't.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 235

^V^ILJL ALL THOSE WHO SUFFER
FROM
PLEASE
S-E-A.X) THIini :FOXiXjO"WII5rQ- XjETTEie,
FROM A RELIABLE DRUaOIST ?
Mount Vernon, III., April 29, 1871.
Messrs. J. N. Harris & Co., Cincinnati, Ohio :
Gentlemen, — I heard one of my customers speak in such high terms of Allen's
Lung Balsam to-day, that I thought I would write you the substance of his
statement. He says his mother, who is now sixty years of age, has suffered
with consumption for several years, and has been under the care of all our best
physicians, but never received any permanent benefit; then she resorted to
most every kind of Cough and Lung Balsam that could be procured for her, but
all to no avail. She still grew worse, until she was confined to her bed; and
when she was seized with a paroxysm of coughing she would lose the power of
respiration, and they were compelled to resort to various means to restore
breathing ; and while she coughed so hard she C9uld not expectorate anything,
and the family and friends had given up all hopes of her recovery. Her son
noticed the advertisement of Allen's Lung Balsam in the Christian Advocate,
and they thought they would procure and try it. They commenced giving her
the Balsam at 5 o'clock p. m., as directed, a dose every hour until midnight;
then she took another spell of coughing, and expectorated a mouth full of dark
yellow matter, which was something she had not been able to do for some time.
They continued to give her the Balsam until morning, and then she began to
expectorate freely, and within two hours she had expectorated three pints of
mucus matter, which gave her immediate relief, and since that time she has
continued to improve. She now sits up all day, and can walk about the house
and take considerable out-door exercise. Her son bought more of the Balsam
to-day, and he is recommending it very highly to every one.
Yours, respectfully, A. C. JOHNSON, Druggist.
Was there ever greater proof of merit than the case this letter refers to ?

Is without doubt the Best Expectorant Remedy ever offered to the afflicted
public. It contains no opium in any form, and its use is harmless to the most
delicate. J8@" Directions accompany each bottle.
Has proved itself to be the greatest medical remedy for healing the lungs,
purifying the blood, and restoring the tone of the liver. It excites the phlegm
which is raised from the lungs, thereby the cough, pains, oppression, night
sweats, and difficulty of breathing, all the above symptoms will be cured, and
the whole system again restored to health.
For Sale by all Medicine Dealers.

236 THE tourist's guide.

PERSIAN HE4LIIVG, OR PIIVE TAR SOAP.
Each cake is stamped " A. A. Constantine's Persian Healing, or Pine Tar
Soap. Patented March 12th, 1867." No other genuine.
FOR THE TOILET, BATH AND NURSERY,
This Soap has no equal. It makes the complexion fair, preserves the
skin soft and healthy, removes all dandruff, keeps the hair soft and silky,
and prevents.it from falling off, and is " the best Hair Reuoviltor in use."
It cures Chapped Hands, Pimples. Salt Rheum, Frosted Feet, Burns, all
Diseases of the Scalp and Skin, Catarrh of the Head, and is
j^ a-oo3D SH:^^i:src3- so^ip.

BALDNESS CURED.
I can recommend your Persian Healing Soap for Baldness ; it is bringing
my hair in beautifully. I consider it the best Hair Renovator.
M. H. Combs, 218 Atlantic Street, Brooklyn, N. T.
The wife of the Rev. N. Brown, twenty years a Missionary in Southern
Asia, writes from Jersey City, N.. J., to A. A. Constantine: 'We have been
using your soap in our family for toilet purposes, and find its healing and
cleansing qualities so far exceed our expectations, or anything of the kind
we have ever used before, that we cannot do without it. Indeed, we find it
the household remedy for almost everything. If we get a bruise, cut, or
burn, the resort is immediately to the Constantine Soap, and in some cases
the cures have been wonderful.
I recommended it to a friend who had a very annoying annual eruption
on the skin ; he used it a short time, and was cured . I have recommended
it to others, who have used it, and always with success. From actual
knowledge, I consider it a great. curative in cutaneous eruptions. I have
used it for catarrh in the'head, making a suds, and snuiEng it through the
nose, and it has cured me. ' I use it constantly for the toilet, and consider
it the BEST SOAP FOR THAT PURPOSE.
R. Benson, U. S. Life Ins, Co., 48 TVall St., N. T.
I have used your Persian Healing Soap in my practice, extensively, and
it has proved the best healing soap I ever used. It has no equal as a soap
for washing the heads and skin of children.
L. P. Aldkich, M. D., 19 Harrison St., N. Y.
We have given it a full and fair trial . In the bath-room and nursery, and
also as an excellent shaving Soap, we think it ia unsurpassed. We recom
mend it honestly. — Methodist Home Journal.
This Soap has already won the praise and esteem of very many of our
first families in New York and throughout the country.
It is used extensively by our best Physicians. Wherever used it has
become
A HOVSEHOLD NECESSITY.
We advise all to try it. For sale by all Dealers. Agents wanted.
Call on or address
-A. -A. CONST A.NTINE <5c CO.
43 ANN STREET, NEW YORK.

•the tourist's guide. 237
J. MUNSESLLi, Sm'BlJ^'JiA.
PRINTING BOllSE,
IVo. 82 STATS STREET,

iiiaii«ll *> t *«le « e»
GIVES SPECIAL ATTENTION TO
TOWN AND COUNTY HISTORIES
GENEALOGIES, &c.,
As well as to every other kind of
OOIS. PEiliPiCILS, AND
PA.MPHLETS.
By recent additions of New fonts of Book Type of 'the most approved
faces, for Letter Press or Stereotype Printing, and the use of the
latest improvements in presses, moved by steam, he is
enabled, by the assistance of skillful workmen, to exe
cute every description of orders in superior
style, and with satisfactory promptness.
PUBLISHES
AlfflffALS OF ALBAIffT.
10 Vols. 12 mo., Cloth, lUnstrated, $20.

238

THE tourist's GUIDE.

HENRY G. HASKELL,
Ikj Iron anl Uacliine Ms,
Nos. 50, 52, 54, and 56 Liberty, anil 8 Prnyn Street,
OFFICE 8 PRUYN ST., NEAR STEAMBOAT LANDING.
Successor to Pkutn & Lansing in this branch of Business,
MANUFACTUEEK OF ALL SIZES OP
STEAM ENGINES AND BOILERS,
Bridge and Roof Bolts, Cemetery, Area and Stoop
Railings, Bank Counter, Office and
Desk Railings,
IRON WORK OF ALL KINDS,
Balconies, Verandas, Iron Bridges, Bedsteads, Bank Vaults, Wronght
Iron Beams, Roof Crestings, Doors and Shutters.
MANUFACTUBEBS, ALSO, OP
REYIffSR^ STOIffEl & GO/S

I»A.TENT iniPFt.O'VSD
WEODGHT-IEON TDBDUB ABCH TRUSS BRIDGE.
A Lithograph giving full particulars will be sent on application..

Particular Attention Given to Repairing all kinds of Machinery and Boilers,
PATTERSS AND MODELS MADE AT SHORT NOTICE.
SBISTD FOR IIjX4XTSTRA.XB13 aA.TA.IjOCa-XTB.

THE tourist's GUIDE. 239
MANUFACTURERS OF MEERSCHAUM PIPES,
AND DEALERS IN SEQARS.
Wholesale ^^^^ Retail
43 MAIDEN LANE,^^^i 27 JOHN STREET.
MiW ¥"©88^. ^^^Mp* jjj j^g Middle of the Block.

OFFICE, No. 132 BKOAD-WAY, N. Y.
.A.SSBTS O-VEK, $1,500,000.
CHARLES H. RAYMOND, Pres't. G. S. "WINSTON, M. D., Med. Exam'r.
ROBERT A. GRANNIS, Secretary. SHBPPARD HOMANS, Oons'g Act'y.
"WM. BETTS, LL.D., Counsel.
Issues all approved forms of Life and Endowment Policies. The attention
of careful business men is invited to the RESERVE DIVIDEND PLAN, as
adopted by this Company, and which is original wltb it. Full information
may be obtained by application to the Company's Office.
FRANK CHAMBERLAIN, Gen'l Manager for N. T. State, 449 Broadway, Albany.
AGENTS WANTED,
the: YE-AR^OF BA.TXr.ES,
A History of the War Between France and Germany,
By Ii. P. BROCK£TX, M. D.
This Is the only complete work on the "War published. Besides being an
accurate History of the "War, it embraces, also, an historical account of the
Civil "War In France, closing with the subversion of the Commune.
25,000 HaT9 Been Sold in 60 days. The Host BemarUUe Book Snocoss of the Tear.
Any live man or woman can sell 25 every day. Send S1.25 for outfit at once,
or address, H. S. GOODSPEED & CO.,
¦37 Park Row, New York.
IMPORTANT TO LADIES !
THE " EXXG-ENIE,"
OE. LADY'S oo3^>^i=-^3srioisr.
Patented Novem.'ber 17, 1868,
is a Periodical Bandage, recommended by many eminent Physicians, com
mended by nearly every Lady at sight, and is destined to be worn by every
Young Miss and Married or Single Lady, of whatever position m life.
Price, $2; profits liberal, and sells readily. Agents wanted everywhere.
For Descriptive Circular, etc., address
THE "EtTGENIE" MANUFACTURING CO.,
P. O. Box 2438. W2 Eulton Street, N. Y.
Ijadies are invited to call and examine. A liady always in attendance.

3 9002

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

From the library of
RUSSELL C. LEFFINGWELL
Yale 1899
The gift of his daughter
MRS. EDWARD PULLING

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