39002005158150 imtT cmmcuAH YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE LIBRARY ASSOCIATES Gift of WILLIAM INGLIS MORSE HISTORY OF NIAGARA ST. MARK'S IN 1S34. HISTORY OF NIAGARA (IN PART) BY JANET CARNOCHAN Jluthor of "St. ^^ark's Centennial," "St. Jlndrew's Centennial," etc. WITH FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS TORONTO WILLIAM BRIGGS 1914 Copyright, Canada, 1914, by JANET CARNOCHAN FOREWORD If anyone doubted the genius for research in the his torical field which Miss Janet Carnochan possesses, the following pages would dispel the doubt. The work is an example of elaborate and untiring investigation. It embodies the fullest details of the history of Niagara. All the phases of the town's existence since the days of Governor Siracoe, every incident that reveals the close connection between the growth of the place and the devel opment of the Province, are to be found here. The local narrative is in itself of wide interest because Niagara is a kind of mother-colony, and from it have gone forth to other parts of Canada families and individuals retaining memories and traditions of the early settlement. But the book is much more than local in its theme. As the first capital of Upper Canada, where the Legislature began its sessions, as a battle-ground in the War of 1813, as a border town intimately associated with international disturb ances, Niagara touches national history at many points. Miss Carnochan has left nothing unrecorded. From the rich stores of her knowledge have been drawn details of political, social, religious, educational and commercial beginnings. We get a complete picture of life in one of our oldest and most interesting towns, and can reconstruct in the mind's eye what Canada was like more than a een- V vi POEBWOKD tury ago. The toil which has produced so notable a work must have been immense, and entitles the authoress to the gratitude of her fellow Canadians. Miss Carnochan has long been famous for devotion to tasks of this kind. The transactions of the Niagara Historical Society bear evidence to her zeal in the cause of original research. The establishment of the unique Historical Museum in the town is due to her indomitable enterprise and owes much to her generosity and unselfishness. These and similar achievements, proofs of a practical patriotism all too rare, are now capped by the History of Niagara, which is a timely contribution to our scanty knowledge of bygone days. It is to be hoped that the book will find many readers, both on account of its merits and as a slight recognition of the labours of its gifted authoress. A. H. U. COLQUHOUN. PREFACE Peom many sources, at many times, in various ways, has the material for this book been gathered. For years I had jotted down anything I found interesting relating to the early history of the town, not with any idea of using in this way, but merely to please myself. The first sugges tion that I should write the history of Niagara was made to me by Lady Edgar several years before her death, but other occupations prevented this being carried out. Prom old Niagara papers, from books of travel, from original documents, from tales told by the earliest inhabitants, from happy days spent in many libraries, I have gleaned. Had I begun the work while some of the old pioneers of this vicinity were living, much more, never to be gained now, might have been obtained. I have thought it remarkable that very few of the early families have kept records of the time of landing here, but there have been sad reasons to explain the absence of these documents in the events of 1813-1814. It is to be hoped that in every town, township and county of this vast Dominion swept by three great oceans steps may be taken to gather, while it may be done, the first beginnings, the noble deeds, the struggles to conquer the hard conditions of life. Much has been done in some places, as, for instance, the story of the Talbot settlement, by Dr. Coyne, and the pathetic story viii PEEFACE of the Eed Eiver Settlers and the sufferings of Selkirk in his attempts to better the condition of his countrymen, by Dr. Bryce, but much remains to be done. A few words in explanation. This is not the story of Niagara now. My work for years appears to have been not to exploit the present but to try to do justice to those who have gone before, to tell of the noble work they accom plished and of the difficulties they surmounted. It must be seen that, though so much has been gathered, still much remains untold. For this reason I have placed the words " In Part " following the words " History of Niagara," hoping that others may take up the work. It will be seen that much has been drawn from my papers read before Historical Societies, but by far the greater part of the book has never before appeared in print, and the same can be said of the illustrations, about fifty in number. These also are from various sources and of many styles — reproductions of old miniatures, oil paintings, water- colors, silhouettes, old-fashioned daguerreotypes and the modern kodak print. To many individuals I owe thanks for kindness extended. Dr. Brymner in the Archives Branch showed every cour tesy, as did Dr. Bain in the Eeference Library; also to Mr. Avern Pardoe in the Legislative Library, Dr. Praser in the Archives, J. J. Murphy in the Crown Lands Depart ment, Mr. J. Eoss Eobertson for the help given by his " Landmarks " and " History of Free Masonry," Colonel Cruikshank's " Documentary History," Mrs. J. G. Currie for rare pamphlets. Miss Quade's " Eeminiscences," and PEEFACE ix those of Miss Gilkeson and J. A. Davidson, Dr. C. C. James for his " Early Legislators," Eev. E. de M. Eudolf, Dr. Boyle, Dr. Colquhoun, Mr. C. A. F. Ball, Mr. J. McFar- land, Mr. P. A. Porter, and to many others. To Mrs. E. J. Thompson thanks are due for kodak views, to officers of the town for allowing examination of documents in min utes of churches, libraries, schools, and town records. I had thought to give a list of books from which I have gleaned, and indeed began it, but the number increased so that I relinquished the idea, the limits of time and space for bidding. As the greatest lyrical poet hoped "to write a book or sing a song for Scotland's sake," so I in a humbler way have aimed to write a verse or tell a story for Niagara's sake, " mine own romantic town." To all Niagarians here or in distant homes this work is dedicated. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. Niagara 1 II. Early Census and Municipal Records . . 7 III. Navy Hall and Port George .... 10 IV. First Parliament and Governor Simcoe . 13 V. The United Empire Loyalists ... 19 VI. General Sir Isaac Brock . . . 24 . 28 VII. Butler's Barracks .... VIII. American Occupation, May 27th to December 10th, 1813 . .... 32 IX. Fort Niagara 41 X. Niagara Library, 1800-1820 .... 46 XI. St. Mark's Church . ... 56 XII. Newspapers .69 XIII. St. Andrew's Church .... 80 XIV. Streets and Maps of the Town ... 97 XV. Early Buildings and Early Merchants . . 106 XVI. Freemasons . 120 XVII. Schools, Public and Private .... 128 XVIII. The Boats and Harbor and Dock Company . 135 XIX. Assemblies, Balls and Celebrations . 141 XX. Growth op the Town and Changes . . 147 XXI. The Mayors of Niagara and the Town Records 150 XXII. The Jail and the Court House . . . 157 XXIII. The Methodist Church 163 XXIV. Military ... .... 166 XXV. The Baptist Church . . . .176 XXVI. Graveyards op Niagara and Vicinity . . 178 XXVII. Indians, Their Treaties and Council Meetings 191 XXVIII. St. Vincent de Paul Church . . . .201 xi xii CONTENTS chapter page XXIX. Africans in Niagara 203 XXX. Odd Advertisements and Items Found in Niagara Papers 208 XXXI. Canada Presbyterian Church . . . 212 XXXII. Niagara Public Library 214 XXXIII. Niagara High School 219 XXXIV. Statutes Passed in Parliament Relating to Niagara from 1792 to 1840 . . .230 XXXV. Physicians and Lawyers 234 XXXVI. Post Offices and Postmasters . 243 XXXVII. Obituary Notices . . ... 245 XXXVIII. Societies and Clubs 255 XXXIX. Societies 266 XL. Books Printed or Written Here . . . 285 XLI. Poems Relating to Niagara . . . 289 XLII. Fruit in the Niagara Peninsula . . . 308 XLIII. References to Early Books of Travel . . 311 XLIV. Visitors at Niagara .... . 314 Closing Words 322 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS St. Mark's in 1834 Frontispiece Paradise Grove 1 Parliament Oak . 16 House of D. W. Smith, 1793 21 Sir Isaac Brock 25 Brock's Cocked Hat ... .... 25 Lighthouse and Lighthouse Keeper's House, built 1803 28 Hospital Built in 1822, showing Palings around Butler's Barracks 28 Battle of Fort George, May 27, 1813 ... .39 Fort Niagara, erected 1725 and 1749 42 Joint Funeral, June 25, 1911 42 St. Mark's Church 65 House of J. Powell, 1826, afterwards owued by Jas. Boulton and Dr. Morson ... . . 65 St. Andrew's Church 80 Pulpit of St. Andrew's Church 83 Rev. Dr. McGill 94 House of George Field, built 1802 101 House of Jas. McFarland, built 1800 101 Locust Grove, Residence of Mrs. J. W. Ball . . . 108 Residence of Miss Mary Servos 108 House used as a School by Miss Young in 1825. Built in 1816 119 James Butler's House before 1812 119 Masonic Hall 122 Queenston in 1840 122 xiii xiv LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS PAGE Representative Men — ^Hon. John Simpson, Judge Camp bell, Ralfe Clench, Jas. M. Dunn, LL.B. . . .147 The Old Jail and Court House 151 The Western Home, formerly the Old Jail and Court House . '. 151 Representative Men — Col. Macdougal, Capt. D. Milloy, Henry Paffard, Major Hiscott, M.P.P. . . .154 Hon. Robert Hamilton 158 Father Gordon 201 St. Vincent de Paul Church 201 Seal of the Grammar School 232 High School Centenary, 1908 232 Historical Building 279 Navy Hall . 279 High Post Bedstead in Historical Building . . 282 Tablets to Early Settlers in Historical Building . . 282 Count de Puisaye . . 289 Count de Puisaye's House, built 1799 .... 289 Sycamore Tree at Port George 293 Balm of Gilead in "The Wilderness" .... 293 OflScers' Quarters, Butler's Barracks 300 French Thorn Trees . William Kirby, F.R.S.C. Laura Ingersoll Secord Monument at Queenston, 1911 300 304316 316 HISTORY OF NIAGARA PARADISE GROVE. HISTORY OF NIAGARA CHAPTEE I. NIAGARA. OuiNAGAKAH, Ougiara, Niagara, — in the index of the " Documentary History of New York," there are over forty forms of the sonorous Indian word, sonorous yet soft and musical; the word is thought by some to be the only word left of the language of the Neutral Indians who formerly occupied this territory. By how many names known since — Loyal Village, Butlersburg, West Niagara, Newark, Niagara, and now Niagara-on-the-Lake — the unwary ex plorer of archives may easily be led astray, for in early records Niagara generally means Fort Niagara, and Little Niagara, the upper end of theportageroad near IPort Schioss"er on the""^Hlrfffffcan side. *2Gaa]DSvrTurther diffi- cuTtieJirwait the un^Jy^taveller from the repetition of the word as Niagara Palls, Niagara Palls South, Niagara Falls Centre, Niagara Falls, N.Y., giving ample oppor tunity for letters and baggage to go astray. It is a beautiful spot with wonderful natural advantages — the broad lake, the blue river, forts, lighthouse, old elms, linden trees, weeping willows, broad, quiet streets, and almost every spot being of historic interest. It has been said that to know the history of Niagara is to know much of the history of Upper Canada. Niagara was at different times a legislative, military, literary, commercial, naval, educational and social centre ; the centre, too, of the Indian trade and the refuge of escaped slaves. A town that has been the scene of a battle, that had the first Parliament, two of the first churches, the first library, the first newspaper, the first agricultural society in Ontario, may lay claim to the interest of the historian. Here lived for a time two 2 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA governors — Simcoe and Brock — ^who, if not possessed of the eloquence or literary skill of a Dufferin or a Lome, showed much zeal, wisdom, courage and ability in the trying hour of need. A town that has been in the hands of the enemy and again a heap of smoking ruins, and, phoenix-like, rising from its own ashes, and now the quiet beauty of lake and river, forest and plain, rich vineyards and orchards of luscious fruit, may surely justify us, like St. Paul, who boasted that he was an inhabitant of " no mean city," in rejoicing that we have a goodly heritage of which we may justly feel proud. Of the early history of the peninsula there is only known that it was the abode of the Neutral Indians, called so because in the wars between the Iroquois to the south and the Hurons to the north the Neutrals took no part, but allowed both to travel through their territory, not taking sides with either. After the fierce Iroquois of New York State had annihilated the Hurons they attacked and com pletely destroyed the Neutrals, who were a peaceful nation with various villages in Western Ontario, Niagara being the last village to the east. The word Niagara, meaning " the Strait," had various meanings attached to it. What is now the common and the military reserve was a plain devoted to raising corn, and again the scene of an Indian .„. council and treaty making. The first European visitor of*" i whom we have any record is Father Daillon, who is said to \ liave celebrated mass on the west side of the river in 1626 ; I Galinee and Dollier came in 1640, and again in 1669. In ,, ^.^ the Galinee narrative, found in the Jesuit Eelations, they mention passing the mouth of the river. Another name for the Neutrals was the Attiwandarons, so called by the Hurons. After the Neutrals were destroyed the Missis- saugas, a branch of the Chippewa nation, came to the west side, a few of the Senecas being on the east side. By the treaty of 1764, concluded by Sir William Johnson at Johnson Hall, the Senecas ceded a tract of land on both sides of the river of fourteen miles in length by four in breadth. This treaty was subsequently confirmed by a treaty with the Mississaugas, who claimed ownership in the lands on the west side of the river. The settlement on that side of the river seems to have NIAGAEA 3 been brought about by a suggestion of Haldimand in 1779, that crops be raised to supply the garrison at Fort Niagara, the soil of the west side being good, as the rations served out to the Indians and settlers were a heavy tax on the British Government. Previous to this all refugees, all Indian allies, came to the fort for protection and food; but then began the settlement at Niagara, then called West Niagara to distinguish it from the Port, the only previous* attempt to cultivate the soil having been made by La Salle, as recorded by Hennepin : " In 1679 the Sieur de la Salle employed some of our men in preparing some ground on the western side of the Strait of Niagara, where we planted some vegetables for the use of those who should come to live at this place." In 1780 the proposal of Haldimand was approved by the Home Government ; "the vast expense and difficulty attend ing the transport of provisions for His Majesty's loyal subjects, driven from their homes to take refuge at Niagara," is spoken of, provisions for a year promised, seed, mills, ploughs, and other implements of husbandry to be furnished, the grain, etc., raised not required by the set tlers to be sold to the commanding officer at the Fort. So thus began the cultivation of the land and the settlement of families, as in 1781 Colonel Butler mentions that he has four or five families settled who have built themselves houses ; " they will want sixty bushels of spring wheat and oats, twelve of buckwheat, and a barrel of Indian corn for planting." He mentions that Peter and James Secord, two of the farmers already settled, were about to build a saw and grist mill. We find that Butler took a census in 1783-3 and gives the names of sixteen families, numbering sixty-eight persons, giving the number of acres under cul tivation and amount 'of horses, cattle, sheep and hogs owned. What names are called up in a glance at the past history of the town! La Salle, that man of iron; Butler and Brant, the wise Simcoe, the brave Brock, the Duke of Kent ; Hamilton, the founder of Queenston ; the Duke de Eoche- f oucauld de Liancouit ; the poet Moore ; the French Count, General de Puisaye; Addison, the first missionary; Molly Brant, and many others. 4 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Niagara has gone through many stages of growth and decay since the first census was taken in 1783. It was the abode of the Government officials during the first five years of Parliament; prospering till the War of 1813-14; then at one fell swoop wiped out of existence; then becoming a com mercial centre, its merchants supplying the then hamlets of Hamilton and St. Catharines; its docks and foundries with their busy workmen sending out many of the vessels for the lake traffic. The law business for three counties- Lincoln, Welland and Haldimand — was transacted here, the assizes often lasting for six weeks, the town full of lawyers, clients, witnesses. Many regiments were quartered here — King's Dragoon Guards, Highlanders, Eoyal Engineers, King's Eighth, Sappers, and Miners; famous regiments, among them the 41st, 49th, 70th and 79th. The town, numbering at oneHrme about four thousand inhabitants, .sent a member to Parliament. Then came its dark days. The shipbuilding interest languished, the dockyards closed, the county town was removed, the troops were recalled, different industries, as car factory, tannery, steel works, and knitting factory, failed, and numerous fires occurred. The town seemed doomed. A clever article by a noted news paperman described it as " Lotus ToAvn." But since that day the retrograde movement has been arrested. The build ing of the Queen's Eoyal Hotel on its unrivalled site, the Chautauqua Hotel, the conference of Bible students, the tournaments, volunteer camps, waterworks, electric light, cement pavements, planting of shade trees on the streets, the town park, development of fruit farms, new residences, all show a new town. The streets had been laid out in 1791 with mathematical regularity, and now in summer the maples, elms and lindens give ample shade. Prom the hotel may be seen an unrivalled panorama of lake, river, forts, steamers passing, the fisherman's nets, rowboats and yachts, motorboats, laughing children bathing on the safe and sloping beach. Prom the fort is heard the sound of the bugle, clear and sweet, or nearer the rhythmical beat of the waves upon the shore or the music of the waving branches of trees. Seen, too, the lofty sky of ethereal blue, and in the evening, when the sun seems to sink into the lake, the crimson and gold, azure and purple, with heavenly NIAGAEA 5 tints of mauve and pink, are reproduced in the lake without a ripple, and later the lights from the officers' quarters and the lighthouse, slanting across the river almost to our feet — what fairer sight can any country boast? While Niagara may never be a busy commercial or manu facturing town, it has unequalled advantages as a watering place, and is a centre for all those open-air amusements now happily so common, as golf, tennis, bowling, boating, fishing and bathing; a visit to the wharf in September will show, with its thousands of baskets of fruit — peaches, pears, plums and grapes — that this is indeed the garden of Can ada. The points of interest are numerous. Besides the three forts in view — Niagara, Mississauga and George — ^are the Halfmoon Battery, Navy Hall, Lover's Lane, Paradise Grove, Butler's Barracks, the French Thorns, the Parlia ment Oak, Crookston, St. Mark's graveyard, the old jail and court house (now the home of waifs and strays), the two historic churches, St. Mark's and St. Andrew's, and not far distant Brock's monument, the Devil's Hole, Foster's Plats, and the Glen. The traveller may also visit the pub lic library containing over seven thousand volumes, and the historical building with many articles of interest to the antiquarian or the student of Canadian history, such as military relics, documents, pictures, Indian relics, china, household articles — six thousand in number.. With all this the beauties of the town have not been exhausted, and much more to be seen will amply repay the visit of the tourist. But who can tell in adequate words the feeling with which Niagarians far from the old town think of it ? How the heart warms at the mention of the name ; how they come to visit, after what seem years of exile, every spot endeared to them since childhood, and which memory invests with a halo of beauty. But if their absence has been long, how few of the old friends they find, alas! as one sadly and pathetically said : " I found more of my old friends in the graveyards than elsewhere in the town." But the scenery has not lost its beauty. Where can we find a more beautiful vista than to stand at the railway platform in town and look in the direction of the river? What com bination of colors could be more entrancing — ^the green trees on each side, the blue river and the white fort ? And 6 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA to stand on any of our streets in the evening at sunset and look north, the long avenue of trees ending with the glorious crimson sky, changing to softer tints — the blaze of glory lifts the thoughts to the great Creator of all this beauty. Is this a foretaste of the unknown hereafter ? Or stand on the knoll at Port George near the spot where Brock was buried, and take in the view of fast-flowing river with banks of soft green, the historic fort reaching back to French occupation, the seemingly boundless lake beyond ; or walk — for walking here is pleasure — ^and sit on the bank of the river watching the points and bays, and think of the ceaseless flow coming from far Superior to our own Ontario Lake, by rivers — some flowing south, some north — and finally making that tremendous leap following the tumultuous rapids, and then the mad circling waters of the whirlpool, and flowing majestically onward through the rapids of the noble iSt. Lawrence, to the vast ocean beyond. Is there any wonder that we love our town ? Oh, Niagara ! never can thy beauties be forgotten. CHAPTEE II. EARLY CENSUS AND MUNICIPAL RECORDS. On August 35th, 1783, Colonel Butler took the first census of the Settlement of Niagara. The names are Peter Secord, John Secord, James Secord, Isaac Dolson, George Stuart, George Fields, John Depue, Daniel Eowe, Elijah Phelps, Philip Bender, Samuel Lutz, Michael Showers, Harmonious House, Thomas McMicking, Adam Young, McGregor Van Every, representing all told 338 acres cleared, 45 horses, 55 cattle, 88 bogs, 30 sheep, 306 bushels of wheat, 930 bushels of corn, 46 bushels of oats, 600 bushels of potatoes. The enumeration is given thus: Peter Secord, 7 persons, 4 horses, 6 cattle, 14 hogs, 30 acres cleared, 80 bushels of wheat, 65 bushels of Indian corn, 100 bushels of potatoes, 5 bushels of oats. Thomas McMicking brought with him one male slave. There were 16 families and 83 persons. In 1783 another census was taken, the settlers now num bering 46 families, having 44 houses and 30 barns, owning 134 horses, 195 cattle, 333 hogs, 713 acres cleared, 133 sown with winter wheat, and 343 ready for sowing. The additional names are John Macdonell, Peter Hare, Bernard Prey, Andrew Bradt, Benjamin Pawling, Jacob Ball, Peter Ball, Eobert Guthrie, John Eeiley, John Coon, Jacob Ben- ner, George Eencier (Eensselaer), Ezekiel Brown, Joseph Eobinson, P. Thompson, Brant Johnson, John Burch, Thomas Secord, Ealph Johnston, John Chisholm, P. Els- worth, James Porsyth, T. Millard, A. Macdonell, A. Slingerland, H. Matthews, H. Volleck, Joseph Peters, John Secord, Jr., S. Sipes. To what distance the settlement extended we know not. Prom the archives we learn that on May 3rd, 1783, rations were given, and in July, to 358 men, 99 women, and 263 children, of those settled opposite Port Niagara. In 1784 there were 600 rations per day given. Although such an old town, the records go back to only 1846, the date of incorporation, as previously the record 7 8 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA book was for the town and township, and this was retained by the latter. The records, however, are very meagre, chiefly relating to the rules for fencing, marking cattle, names of assessors, fence-viewers, etc. Strange to say the presiding officer was the constable. On August 8th, 1793, " A town meeting was appointed at Newark by the petty sessions of magistrates — Peter Eussell, Eobert Hamilton, Eobert Kerr, William Jarvis, Esqs. — to be held on August 17th, to elect town and parish officers." The first record is dated August 17th, signed William MoUynox, con stable; Ealfe Clench, clerk. At a meeting of the inhabitants, electors of the township of Newark, by virtue of an act of the Legislature — an act to provide for appointment of parish and town officers, etc. — a list is given of assessors, collectors, poundkeepers, fence- viewers, or overseers of highways, town or church wardens. The meetings afterwards were held in March. The name of Newark was used till 1799; but from 1800 that of Niagara. The town meeting was held on March 1st, 1813, but no meeting is recorded during the war, nor indeed till March 30th, 1817. The places of meeting were various, generally an inn in the town; but in 1836 they met at Cross Eoads. In 1837 it is called a township meet ing, held at George Cain's, Pour Mile Creek, and in 1839 at St. Davids, and no mention is made of the town, which must have had a separate meeting. The following persons were elected for the year 1794: Ealfe Clench, Esq., town clerk ; Peter Ball, Esq., and Adam Vrooman, assessors; Arent Bradt, collector; John Butler and Eobert Hamilton, town or church wardens; Peter Lampman, James Thomas, and Arent Bradt, as pound- keepers; William Vanderlip, John Young, Adam Crysler, Gilbert Fields, Stephen Secord, and Cornelius Lambert, overseers of highways, and fence-viewers. It was resolved at said meeting that hogs should be allowed to run at large, and that the height of fences should be five feet, to be lawful. In 1798 it was resolved that all teams, carriages, etc., coming to town should keep the road, and those going from town to turn out for them. In 1808 this was varied to: " That carriages on meeting shall give half the road, keep- CENSUS AND MUNICIPAL EECOEDS 9 ing to the right hand side." On the last two pages of the book is a register of marks on hogs or cattle, which to us seems cruel. The farmers' names are here down to 1835. A few marks are given: A slit in the right ear; a hole and halfpenny in the left ear; the left ear cut off; a crop off the left ear and a halfmoon cut out of the lower side of the same ear ; a round hole in each ear and the tail cut off ; a triangle in the left ear, etc. These records of town meetings give us the names of persons of standing selected from year to year to perform certain duties. In a newspaper of 1802 is a list of those ~> to do statute labor in the town and township of Niagara, ] which gives us the names of owners of property and the jr position of their farms or lots in the town. From Queens- / ton to Niagara — Hon. E. Hamilton, A. Vrooman, J. Dur- | ham, A. Cunningham, J. Brown, G. Fields, J. Kemp, H. Johnston, General Count de Puisaye, I. Swayze, J. McFar land, J. Wilson. Of these on the river road six names are sSir represented — Hamilton, Vrooman, Brown, Fields, Durham, and McFarland — by their descendants. Under the charge of A. Heron!| from Navy Hall to Four Mile Creek — W. J. Chew, D. Price, William Dickson, W. Crooks, J. Crooks, J. Dun, A. Stewart, J. Muirhead, G. Drake, Mrs. Lyons, Herild, Dorman, Fields, Cassady, Boyd, Greenfil, Edwards, Bradshaw, Thompson, Hurst, Kinsela, Purdy, Wallace, Porsyth, Symington, Johnston, Coon, Wenip, Butler's farm. In the remaining list we find the familiar names of Ball, Butler, Freel, Servos, Secord, Corns, Cle ment, Stewart, and descendants of Addison, Claus, Young, still on the same farms. In 1795, in the District of Nassau, the justices of the Court of Common Pleas were John Butler, Eobert Hamil ton and Jesse Pawling. The justices of the peace were John Warren, John Powell, Jacob Ball, John Burch, and P. Ten Broek. Sheriff, S. Street; Clerk of the Court of Common Pleas, Gilbert Tise; Clerk of the Peace, Philip Prey; Coroner, H. Nelles. The members of the Land Board in 1791 were Colonel Gordon, Lieut.-Colonel Butler, P. Ten Broek, E. Hamilton, B. Pawling, J. Burch, John Warren, John McNabb, Lieut. Bruyere, of Eoyal Engineers. CHAPTEE III. NAVY HALL AND FORT GEORGE. In Mrs. Simcoe's water-color, taken from near the mouth of the river, there may be seen four buildings, one nearly at right angles to the others; and in the map of 1799 of Fort George appear the same four buildings, marked Navy Hall. A long, low building still remains, and this is claimed to be one of the four. From a letter in the archives it appears that " Navy Hall was built in the course of the last war, 1775-1787, for the use of the officers of the navy department serving on Lake Ontario. Not being wanted in time of peace it vras not repaired, and is a paltry resi dence for the king's representative, and not fit for winter, but was fitted up for Simcoe and family." 'When Simcoe arrived, one of these, full of sails, cordage and other naval stores, was cleared out and fitted up for the Governor. In a letter from Alured Clarke to Lord Dundas, "Eepairs were ordered 36th July, 1793, £500 was to be spent on boards, lime, paint (white, brown, blue, black), 13 locks, 13 bolts, 18 sashes," etc. The French Duke, entertained by Simcoe in 1795, says the Governor's residence at Navy Hall " was a miserable low wooden building." Of course it would so appear to a nobleman from Paris. In all the maps where the one building left appears it is at an angle slanting to the river, and doubters say the building now is more nearly facing the river and cannot be the same. But the explanation is easy. When the late W. A. Thom son made the cutting through the oak grove for a new railway route it was found this would run right through Navy Hall. He then obtained permission to move it back into Fort George enclosure, which was carefully done, the building being placed more nearly facing the river than before. In maps of 1816, 1817, 1819, 1831 and 1835 the same building appears marked Navy Hall, while in a later one of 1851 it is called Eed Barracks, it having been used for soldiers stationed here. There are two doors, each 10 NAVY HALL AND POET GEOEGE 11 marked " 28 men." The building was at one time devoted to the ignoble use of a stable, and finally, although petitions were sent to the Government for its restoration, it was fast becoming a ruin, part of the roof falling in. Happily, however, the present Minister of Militia, the Honorable 'S. Hughes, ordered a grant for its restoration, which has been done, care being taken to use all old mater ials possible, and to present the same appearance as before. John Eoss Eobertson, who had advocated its restoration, obtained part of an oak beam from it and had a handsome chair made thereof, which he presented to the Convo cation Hall of Toronto University, in December, 1912. The building is one hundred feet long by twenty-four feet in width. The Niagara Historical Society has placed on it a marble tablet with the following inscription : " One of four buildings called Navy Hall in 1787. One was altered for Governor Simcoe, 1792. He had one, believed to be this one, prepared for Parliament, 1793, called Eed Bar racks, 1840, moved up, 1864. Almost a ruin, 1911. Ee- stored by Dominion Government, 1913, by petition of Niagara Historical Society." Quite near was the King's Wharf, which was used till the Harbor and Dock Company, in 1831, filled up the marshy ground, and excavated for what is now called the " slip." The tavern near the King's wharf was called, in a paper of 1830, " Navy Hall Tavern." There does not seem to have been much work done at Port George before Simcoe came in 1793, but when it was seen that Port Niagara would be given up, extensive works were set on foot in 1794. To this General Brock added extensively in earthworks, redoubts and bastions. Many buildings were in the enclosure, but of all these scarcely anything remains. In Lossing's "History of the War of 1812 " are several pictures, he having taken sketches. What he calls the new powder magazine in 1860 is now a ruin, while what he calls the old French magazine is in good preservation, buttresses having been added to strengthen it ; but there is no authority whatever to suppose that the French left any traces on this side of the river. It is now diflSeult to trace the position of former buildings, as the hand of time so soon alters the general appearance; the 12 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA moat is gradually filling up, and as the grounds are under cultivation many depressions have almost disappeared. Boys eagerly search for military buttons, and after heavy rains these and other traces of war are often found. Farther up the river may be traced the Halfmoon Battery, and be yond runs a road through the Oak Grove, called Lover's Lane, while the grove around has long been known by the name of Paradise. Early travellers describe Fort George as having irregular fieldwork with six bastions, framed timbers and plank, connected with palisades twelve feet high, and surrounded by a shallow, dry ditch. Troops were lodged in blockhouses, with a spacious building for officers. There was also a maga zine built of stone with an arched roof. A more particular statement is given by Colonel Gother Mann, E.E., from the report in 1803 of Captain Bruyere, E.E. There were four blockhouses, all of a good size — one one hundred by thirty feet, the north and south blockhouses each forty- four by twenty-four feet; an octagon blockhouse, twenty- eight feet in diameter, for stores; another building for stores, ninety by twenty-six feet. Besides these the officers' pavilion was one hundred and twenty by twenty feet, with wings twenty by twenty feet; the hospital was a good building, seventy by twenty-six feet in size; and there were kitchens, detached, to the officers' and soldiers' quar ters. The fort was defended by forty-eight guns of dif ferent sizes, from three-pounders to eighteen-pounders. Showing that these buildings were here in 1813, in the diary of Daniel Claus, on the 27th of May, he was one of the last to leave Fort George on the retreat of Vincent, and says that he marched out from the octagon blockhouse just as the flag of the American force came in the gate. CHAPTEE IV. FIRST PARLIAMENT AND GOVERNOR SIMCOE. It has for years been one of the vexed questions never quite settled where the first Parliament met, each contest ant scouting the statement of his opponent. Sufficient variety is given for choice — a marquee tent on the hill, the Parliament Oak, Navy Hall, the Indian Council House, Butler's Barracks, Government House and Fort Niagara. Now, as our early legislators met here for five years, and as Simcoe found no place ready either for a residence for himself or for Parliament to meet, it is probable, it is indeed certain, that it met in several places; in each and all may our early legislators have met on some occasion, for gener ally these local traditions or myths, as some irreverently call them, have a certain substratum of fact. Documents in the Archives, early books of travel, libraries, local tradi tions, oral testimony of early inhabitants, and maps, all have been consulted and lead to the belief that for part of the time at least. Parliament met in what is called Navy Hall, the name given to four buildings used by the navy, partly for residence, for shelter, and partly for storage of sails, cordage, etc. It is knovim that there were buildings in 1787, and in i map of 1799 there are four buildings marked Navy Hall, at King's Wharf, and in the drawing of Mrs. Simcoe, 1792, these appear. In a map of 1817 one building only is seen, still marked Navy Hall; also in 1819 and 1831 and 1835, while in that of 1851 the same building is called Eed Barracks, it having been used for soldiers, and on the two doors now appear the words " 38 men " in faded colors. Some have asserted that the present building cannot be one of the four buildings of 1793, and that they all were destroyed in the War of 1812-14; but we know that the Americans in December, 1813, left so hurriedly that their tents remained standing, and the buildings of Port George used by them were not destroyed, nor Butler's Barracks, 13 14 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA showing that, though the town was burned with the excep tion of two houses and parts of other houses, many mili tary buildings were left on the outskirts. In the " Makers of Canada,"—" The Life of Simcoe," by Duncan Campbell Scott, F.E.S.C. — the statement is made that the first meeting of Parliament was held in Free masons' Hall, but no authority is given. Since then this is believed to be on the statement of E. Littlehales, secre tary, which, of course, is good authority. So much for the first meeting. Simcoe himself states, in 1793, "Last year I fitted up the King's Barracks and storehouses to contain the offices of Government and my staff and to accommodate the Legislature of the Province. These public buildings I thought it a great public saving to refit." Alured Clarke, in a letter to Lord Dundas, refers to the expense of fitting up these buildings for the Governor's residence, and for tiie Parliament, ordered 26th July, 1792, so that it is not likely they could be ready on 17th September. The exact price is given in pounds, shillings and pence, of boards, shingles, laths, brick, paint, locks, etc. Mrs. Simcoe on the same date says, " These buildings are undergoing repairs for our residence, but are so unfinished that the Governor has ordered three marquees to be pitched on the hill above the house." In the Upper Canada Gazette, 17!)-t, proclamations are dated " Navy Hall, Newark," as in other years, and some times signed "Council House, Navy Hall." Many letters of General Brock are dated " Navy Hall." Proclamations of Governor Simcoe are frequently dated " Government House, Navy Hall." Great care must be used in examining early records, and great confusion arises from the interchange of names. Thus Niagara at first means Fort Niagara. West Landing and The Landing mean Queenston. The King's Barracks does not necessarily mean Butler's Barracks. Another name. Fort George, may easily cause mistakes to unwary writers not familiar with the spot. In military parlance the name Port George is used to represent the town. Let ters to soldiers at Niagara were simply directed to Port George. One statement reads, " Engineers' Quarters, Fort George," which would lead one to believe that the engineers' GOVEENOE SIMCOE 15 quarters were in the, enclosure of Port George, whereas they were a mile distant, where the Queen's Hotel stands. An other reads " Butler's Barracks, Port George," whereas the two spots are a mile apart. All this shows how easy it is to make mistakes. The first Butler's Barracks is supposed by some to have been built on the hill now occupied by a peach orchard, as there the most of Butler's Eangers' but tons were found. In a statement of Peter Eussell, in 1800, of military buildings, he speaks of buildings at Navy Hall being occupied by the military, and that the house generally called Butler's Barracks underwent a thorough repair, and two wings were added for the Legislature to meet in this house, which had later been burnt. This statement has been used to prove that Parliament did not meet at Navy Hall ; but as no date is given for the burning of the building a wide margin is allowed for other buildings being used. The testimony of Mrs. Quade, the daughter of Dominick Henry, keeper of the lighthouse at Mississauga Point from 1803 to 1814, is worthy of attention. She was born at the lighthouse-keeper's house in 1804, was present at the taking of the town by the Americans in 1813, and when it was burnt, December, 1813; lived here till 1831, and when visiting the town, in after years said to her children, when crossing the river landing at the old ferry, pointing to the old building still remaining, " There is the old Parliament House." A different statement is given by Eev. J. Mc- Ewen, born here in 1811, who states that he always under stood Parliament met in a building between Port George and Butler's Barracks. Colonel Clarke, in his diary, says Parliament first met in a marquee tent near the Indian Council House, between Butler's Barracks and Navy Hall. Now, does he mean the first Butler's Barracks or the build ings standing at present? Then the myth of meeting under the Parliament Oak is not easy to explain. Was it nearer than the Oak Grove, possibly a larger tree afford ing better shade? In the map of 1835 the grove is called " Young Oak." These different opinions furnish ground for discussion. On the 17th September, 1793, the first Parliament of Upper Canada met at Newark, summoned by writs issued at Kingston. The members of the Legislative Council 16 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA chosen were : William Osgoode, James Baby, E. Duncan. William Eobertson, Eobert Hamilton, E. Cartwright, J. Munro, Alex. Grant and Peter Eussell; and of the Assem bly, John Macdonell, Speaker; Nathaniel Pettitt, Isaac Swayzie, H. Spencer, E. Jones, J. Booth, P. Vanalstane, B. Pawling, D. W. Smith, John White, J. French, P. Baby, P. Terry and H. Macdonell. P. Dorland, being a Quaker, did not sit. E. B. Littlehales was clerk of the Council, and William Jarvis was secretary. The session lasted four weeks. As only seven members of the Assembly were present no large hall was necessary. There was much state at the opening — a guard of honor of the 36th Eegiment from Fort Niagara, a band of music and colors. Butler's Eangers and Queen's Eangers formed the military escort, some say, and the guns of Port Niagara gave a salute at the hour of opening. The place, according to Littlehales, was the Freemasons' Hall, a building erected in 1791, and in which we find that the Agricultural Society met, Indians met with commissioners and British officers, and where Divine service was held. The present home of the Freemasons is on the same site on the corner of King and Prideaux Street — ^the building called the Stone Barracks for many years. The principal acts fixed the establishment of English law and trial by jury, made share of millers one-twelfth, ordered a jail and courthouse to be built in four districts, and settled weights and measures. Here and there a few glimpses are caught of the procedure, in the Upper Canada Gazette and early books of travel; but, like Oliver Twist, we vainly ask for more. Official notices and news from Constantinople, St. Petersburg, and Amsterdam are fre quently found, but very little of Niagara, its people and its homes ; there were few advertisements and no personals — certainly a great contrast to the papers of the present day. On the 4th of June, 1793, His Majesty's birthday, says the Upper Canada Gazette, Governor Simcoe held a levee at Navy Hall. The guns of the garrison fired a salute. In the evening a ball and elegant supper in the council cham ber were most numerously attended. Of this ball another brief notice is extant. Three distinguished Americans PARLIAMENT OAK. GOVEENOE SIMCOE 17 were among the guests — ^Colonel Pickering, General Lin coln and Mr. Eandolph, United States Commissioners to the Western Indians. The private journal of General Lin coln says : " The ball was attended by about twenty well- dressed and handsome ladies and about three times that number of gentlemen. They danced from seven to eleven o'clock, when supper was served with very pretty taste. The music and dancing were good, and everything was conducted with propriety." The principal Acts passed in the second session were to make valid certain marriages, and, to its honor be it said, to prevent the introduction of slaves and limit the time of those already here. In 1795 Simcoe is described at the meeting of Parliament as " draped in silk. Simcoe entered the hall with his hat on his head, attended by his adjutant and two secretaries and a retinue of fifty men from the fort." When Simcoe built his new residence on the hill it is said he constructed fishponds, supplied vrith water from a spring above. Our first Governor dispensed hospitality with such an open hand that the Indians gave him the name of Deyonguhokrawen — " One whose door is always open " — and we find that — whether Eoyal visitor, French duke, Indian chief or American commissioners — all were hospitably entertained, and those who were in need were assisted. He must, too, have been a most energetic explorer of his new domains, for we have four excursions described on a map, some of these in the depth of winter. First, Eoute from Niagara to Detroit on foot and in canoes, Feb ruary, 1793, taking five weeks; second, York to the Thames, Detroit, Miamis, April, 1794; third, York to Kingston in open boat, December, 1794; and fourth, Niagara to Long Point, 1795, on foot, boat and portage. All this shows that he spared no labor, and must, in such weather and with the primitive means of conveyance, and the roads, or rather want of roads, of those days, have endured many hardships. We know, too, that in arranging for new set tlers he was indefatigable, and showed great zeal and kind ness in allotting to them their new homes, for to every man, woman and child two hundred acres of land were given, and tents were put up for the newcomers till better shelter 3 18 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA could be provided. Simcoe met his last Parliament on 16th May, 1796, which he prorogued on 30th June, being ordered to the West Indies. Mrs. Simcoe ably seconded him; she was possessed of artistic skill, and took numerous sketches of scenery in the neighborhood. These were copied for John Eoss Eobertson in England — over forty in number — and appear in "The Diary of Mrs. Simcoe," lately published, with copious notes most industriously gathered from every possible quarter. CHAPTEE V. THE UNITED EMPIRE LOYALISTS. We have no record of settlements on the Canadian side of the river previous to 1777. Eefugees who fled to Fort Niagara came in gradually, some destitute, some bringing with them treasured articles. Those who stood for the unity of the empire received the name of United Empire Loyalists. Butler's Eangers were disbanded in 1784, and the Militia Eeservation, by command of Haldimand, ex tended to Four Mile Creek. The Land Board met in 1789. We find the names of Augustus Jones, surveyor (father of the late Peter Jones, missionary) , Philip Prey and D. W. Smith. While the settlements in Nova Scotia and Adolphustown can give an exact date for the landing, as the refugees came by boat, and we have the certain date of 18th of May, 1783, of the landing at St. John of seven thousand from New York, and on the 16th of June, 1786, at Adolphustown, we have no certain time fixed accurately, for those who came to Niagara came by devious ways by land and water — some by the Hudson Eiver to Oswego, and crossing Lake Ontario ; others by land to points nearly opposite the Niagara Eiver. Some made their way to Port Niagara as a place of refuge with a British garrison. Few seem to have kept any record of the day or month of their arrival. In the case of Niagara the records were burnt in 1813. In the list of Loyalists the words " Niagara Stamped Book " occur frequently, but this book it seems cannot now be found. Commissioners, five in number, were appointed by the British Government to examine the claims of the Loyalists, and the full report has been jjublished by the Bureau of Archives, the material being obtained in a rather singular way. One copy is preserved in the Public Eecords Office, in London, England, but one of the Commissioners, Colonel Thomas Dundas, retained his manuscript in his home, Carron Hall, Stirlingshire. General Sir Henry Lefroy, 19 20 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA who had charge of a magnetic survey in Toronto, married a daughter of Colonel Dundas, in 1864, and saw the original manuscript, and being interested in the Smithsonian Insti tute, advised that the manuscript be placed there for safe keeping. The Province of Ontario paid to have the whole copied, and the result when printed is two thick volumes of 1436 pages, in which may be found many familiar names, the witnesses, the land owned, value of horses, cattle, houses, barns, when and how obtained, with much curious information. All the evidence was taken under oath, but many could not travel such long distances to give evidence, so that in the list we do not find all the names of United Empire Loyalists ; but the claims are fully given of such names as Ball, Servos, Secord, Crysler, Field and Clement. The work of the Commissioners lasted from 1785 to 1789 in Canada; many with large claims went directly to Lon don. Britain acted with great liberality in helping in various ways— temporary relief, clothing, tools, seed and live stock. At one time 33,682 rations were served out. The total outlay during the war and after it closed to Loyalists amounted, counting the compensation, to not less than $30,000,000. Evidence was given at Halifax, St. John, Quebec, and Montreal, and 1,401 claims were heard, and 834, at the time of giving the report, were not heard. The amounts given were from $50 to $221,000. The latter was granted to Sir John Johnson. In 1783 began the great influx of Loyalist refugees, many of whom had come hundreds of miles through the wilderness. It must be remembered, however, that there are Loyalists and Loyalists. Not all who claimed the title deserved it. Simcoe, to encourage immigration, promised land to all who came; and many who had taken sides against the Loyalists came over simply to obtain land on such easy terms — men who came bringing their property, having suffered nothing and who had no sympathy with the U. E. Loyalists. These were they to whom General Brock referred when he doubted their loyalty in 1813. But these were not they of whom we speak. The history of the exile of the U. E. Loyalists — an exile without parallel in history, except, perhaps, the expatriation of the Huguenots in the HOUSE OP D. W. SMITH, 1793. THE UNITED EMPIEE LOYALISTS 31 time of Louis XIV., or that of the Acadians — ^has never really been told as it deserves to be. Tens of thousands left homes of plenty and came to a wilderness, an unbroken forest I And why ? A poem by Eev. Leroy Hooker answers this: "But dearer to their faithful he.arts Than home or gold or lands, Were Britain's laws and Britain's crown And Britain's flag of long renown, And grip of British hands. They looked their last and got them out Into the wilderness, The stern old wilderness; But then — twas British wilderness!" And in Mr. Kirby's " Hungry Year " : " They who loved The cause that had been lost — and kept their faith To England's crown, and s-oorned an alien name, Passed into exile; leaving all behind Except their honor. Not drooping like poor fugitives they came In exodus to our Canadian wilds, But full of heart and hope, with heads erect. And fearless eyes, victorious in defeat. With thousand toils they forced their devious way Through the great wilderness of silent woods That gloomed o'er lake and stream, till higher rose The northern star above the broad domain Of half a continent, still theirs to hold, Defend and keep forever as their own." Across Niagara Eiver, says Bryce, came convoys of immi grant wagons, herds of cattle, and household goods. Many articles are still to be seen in the neighborhood that were thus brought with much pains and care, and which have a later history of interest, having been, perhaps, buried in the earth to save them from Indians or other foes — ^here a brass kettle (a valuable article in those days), there an old- fashioned chair, a few pieces of precious china or treasured silverware, vrhich had a century before crossed the Atlantic. Stores were issued from the Port for two years to those who were in need. In the Hungry Year, 1789, the settlers went to the woods for roots, grains and buds of trees, made 22 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA tea of sassafras and hemlock, and cooked the grain before it was ripe. The Hungry Year was long remembered and is thus described in the Canadian Idylls : " The sun and moon alternate rose and set Red, dry and fiery in a rainless sky. And month succeeded month of parching drouth That ushered in the gaunt and hungry year. The hungry year whose name still haunts the land With memories of famine and of death. Corn failed, and fruit and herb; a brazen sky Glowed hot and sullen through the pall of smoke That rose from burning forests far and near. Men hungered for their bread Before it grew, yet cheerful bore the hard. Coarse fare, and russet garb of pioneers." In a letter of Mrs. Bowman Spohn, from Ancaster, 1861, she tells of the hardships of her father's family. The house on the Mohawk (Bowman's Creek) was pillaged and the men taken prisoners. The children with others tried to make their way to safety, but they would have perished only for the kindness of some Indians. In the fall of the next year the commander at Fort Niagara, hearing of their destitution, sent a party out to bring them in, five families, Nelles, Secord, Young, Buck and Bowman — five women and thirty-one children, and only one pair of shoes among them. In the spring of 1777 her father joined Butler's Eangers and afterwards settled on land, drew an axe and a hoe from the Government and bought a yoke of oxen ; her mother had a cow, a bed, six plates, three knives, and a few other articles. In the scarce year the only food was nuts, herbs, fish and milk. As soon as the wheat was large enough to rub out they boiled it as a great treat. In D. W. Smith's notebook is a curious reference to the method of crossing the river for the refugees coming in about 1797. He says, "Nineteen covered wagons, convey ing families, came to settle in the vicinity of Lincoln county. The way they cross the river is remarkable. The body of the wagon is made of close boards ; they caulk the seams, and by shifting off the body it transports the wheels and the family to the other side and the vehicle is then put together again." THE UNITED EMPIEE LOYALISTS 23 Many pathetic stories could be told of the sufferings of those who came to Niagara, sometimes from Indians, some times from those on the side of the Eevolution. Thus the Whitmore family saw the father, mother and eldest son killed, the children carried off by Indians and the infant afterwards killed. John Whitmore was rescued after some years by Daniel Servos, who gave him his daughter to wife, who had seen the murder of her grandfather by the enemy. Mr. Whitmore met his sister after a separation of seventy years. CHAPTEE VI. GENERAL SIR ISAAC BROCK.. Though the name of Brock is a Canadian possession, to Niagara it especially belongs, for this was the headquarters of the " Hero of Upper Canada " for years ; many letters of his exist, some dated Niagara, some Fort George, and some Navy Hall. Here he quelled a mutiny in 1804, and here in the same year he entertained the poet Moore ; here he attended church services, and here he was entertained in many homes and royally entertained his friends. Hence he marched out on that dark morning to find a hero's death. Here lay his body for twelve years. His first stay in Nia gara was from 1803 to 1805, and 1810-1812 his last. Major-General Sir Isaac Brock was more than a soldier, though as such he has generally been spoken of. Not then of the man of war, but of the statesman, the friend, the brother, the student, the athlete, the man of the world, the Christian, we speak, for in all these does he shine; and never has the slightest word appeared against his char acter in all his chequered career, whether in his native isle of Guernsey, in Jamaica, Holland, Denmark, England or Canada ; always and everywhere he was brave and generous, gentle, stern, yet mild, a man of integrity, a thorough gen tleman. His letters and his proclamations as administrator of the Government show a high order of intelligence. We read of his order for works of history, and of his study of the classics while at Fort George. The words of that noble Indian chief, Tecumseh, w'hen meeting him, "Here is a man," show how his bearing impressed beholders. His rapid return after the capture of Detroit need only be mentioned here, but the remaining weeks of his life were filled with strenuous work. A diffi cult task was his — a long frontier tq defend and but a small force on which to rely. The Niagara frontier all through the war was a point of attack — Queenston, Niagara, Port 24 SIR ISAAC BROCK. BROCK'S COCKED HAT. GENEEAL SIE ISAAC BEOCK 35 Erie, Chippawa, Lundy's Lane, again and always Niagara, in 1813, 1813, 1814. While Brock always gave full credit to the loyalty and bravery of the militia of Lincoln, he knew that many of the inhabitants who, attracted by the generous offer of land by Simcoe, had come in after the Eevolution, having sacrificed nothing, were often in sym pathy with the invaders. And at this time, too, his mind was distressed with family troubles. Through the failure of a bank he was heavily in debt, and through the same cause an estrange ment between two of his brothers had taken place. One of his letters pathetically urges that they may be a united family, and he arranges honorably for the gradual payment of the debt. On the morning of the 13th of October, 1813, heavy firing was heard as Van Eenssalaer with a force of four thousand men was crossing at Lewiston. Brock, with a small force (his men being scattered, it not being known at what place the attack would be made), galloped from Port George to Queenston, where the few men on the heights had retreated to the village, the enemy having gained the Heights by the "fisherman's path." Eashly exposing himself in an attempt with his small force to retake the Heights, he fell, but his death was avenged ere many hours. His adjutant, the brave young Mac donell, fell in the second attempt to dislodge the enemy, and it was not till afternoon, when fresh forces had arrived from Port George and Chippawa, that General Sheaffe, with the help of the Indians, made a detour round the mountain, where the enemy was conquered and nine hun dred prisoners taken ; but the victory was a costly one, since Brock was slain. His body had been carried to a stone house in Queenston, which is still pointed out, and in the evening was brought to Niagara amid the tears of his soldiers and the Indians, who all loved and honored him. The body lay in state at Government House, a second attack being hourly expected, for there was still a large force of the enemy which had not crossed over from Lewiston. The troops engaged on our side were a few companies of the 41st, 49th, 1st, 4th and 5th Lincolns, Boyal Artillery and Merritt's Dragoons, 36 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA while Brown's Point was defended by the York Volunteers, and a twenty-four-pounder did good service at Vrooman's Point. All this time a cannonade was going on from Port Niagara and Port George. In a letter written by Colonel Evans, 8th King's Eegiment, he says, " There was a brisk cannonade from Port Niagara on the town and fort, and the gaol and courthouse were soon wrapped in flames from the hot shell. Other houses were seen to be on fire, and militiamen were sent round collecting all the water buckets from inhabitants, and great zeal and energy was shown in putting out fires; but this was not accomplished till many buildings were burnt to the ground, amongst them, besides the gaol and courthouse, the. chief engineer's quar ters. The more important ones, however, Eoyal Barracks, Block House (full of prisoners). King's stores, though re peatedly fired, were by great efforts saved." Soon after every available man had been sent off to Queenston the magazine was found to be on fire ; in it were eight hundred barrels of powder. Captain Vigoreux and many volunteers were soon on the roof and the fire extinguished — a daring deed. By means of a bend in the river a battery of the enemy had enfiladed the barracks, magazines and stores, the latter being partially consumed. The funeral of General Brock took place on October 16th, the place selected for burial being the north-east bastion of Port George, one which had been constructed under his orders. In the account given of the funeral, among the pallbearers we find the well-known names of Surgeon Muirhead, Lieutenants Jarvis and Eidout, Captain Crooks, Mr. Dickson, Lieutenant Eobinson, Major Merritt, Colonel Clarke, Colonel Butler, Colonel Claus, and General Sheaffe. On the 31st of November the town was again cannonaded and many houses set on fire from red-hot shot, the mess house at Fort George being burned. Around these earth-piled ramparts wander visitors, and still arrowheads are found, and liuttons bearing the names of regiments stationed here, that of the 49th, Brock's regiment, being specially valued. Here for twelve years lay the bodies of Brock and Macdonell, when, a monument having been erected on Queenston Heights, they were GENEEAL SIE ISAAC BEOCK 37 removed on the 13th of October, 1824, thousands of persons being present. Alike were seen the picturesque dress of the Highlanders and the no less striking garb of the red man, the relatives of Macdonell being in Highland costume and young Brant, from Grand Eiver, with other chiefs, being in full Indian dress. The procession took three hours, including stoppages, to reach the Heights, and the lengthened column winding slowly up the steep ascent was a striking and impressive spectacle. The Eeverend John McEwan, who was a boy of thirteen at the time, tells that the hearse was a large army wagon drawn by four black horses, driven by a black driver, and four black men walked by the side of the horses. This monument, erected by the Government, was par tially destroyed in 1840, and at an indignation meeting held in July of that year it was decided to erect a larger and finer monument by subscriptions of soldiers, Indians and the people generally. This was erected in 1853, and an other grand funeral ceremony took place. It may be questioned whether in any place in the world so grand a monument stands on so commanding a site, giving so fair a view of river, lake, forest and plain, the varying colors of brown earth, golden grain, sombre pines, peach orchards or " maple fdrests all aflame." Generous contributions reached the sum of $50,000, and the Park Commissioners now have charge of the grounds, which are kept in beau tiful order. From every direction the beholder may gaze at the figure of Brock with arm extended on the column one hundred and seventy-five feet in height. CHAPTEE VII. BUTLER'S BARRACKS. The various maps in the Niagara Historical Society Building copied from those in the Archives at Ottawa, which are copies of those in London, England, give us much information, but sometimes are puzzling. The Society has acquired almost all the maps relating to Niagara and vicinity from 1784 to 1851. In a map of Township Number One, meaning Niagara, all the farms are marked with names of owners, and one gives near Navy Hall a building marked " Eangers' B." Does this mean Eangers' Barracks, and which Eangers, Butler's or Queen's Eangers? In another of 1790', somewhere near the wharf and above it is marked " The Eangers' Barracks." In a map of 1799 are given the four buildings of Navy Hall and the position of the Indian Council House, which, in a map of 1822, is the site of the Hospital; but there was a Hospital in Fort George at an earlier date. In a map of 1816 Navy Hall appears, also in 1819, and in a map of 1817 fourteen buildings of Butler's Barracks appear with the same names as on the map of 1851, where there are twenty-two buildings with the same names as those of 1817, and also in 1835 — the commissariat, barrack-master, officers' quarters, soldiers' barracks, fuel yard, quarter master's office, stables, storehouses, canteen, ordnance store, gun shed, and barrack-sergeant's office. How many regiments have been quartered here? In 1819, in the journal of Captain Langslow, of the East India Com pany's service, he mentions visiting Fort George, Port Mississauga and Fort Niagara, and dined with the mess, which must, from places referred to, have been at Butler's Barracks, although he does not mention it by name; says they have a good mess room; the barracks infamous (not men and officers) ; speaks of Colonel Grant and eating at his residence plenty of fine peaches. In a small map the 28 ii> *%..¦ .jiT-^gayg^-^aar-j!^ ^ ^i *»#*•*. ":£= • 3«fl?^J ^ LIGHTHOUSE AND LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER'S HOME, BUILT 1803. HOSPITAL, BUILT IN 1822, SHOWING PALINGS AROUND BUTLER'S BARRACKS. BUTLEE'S BAEEACKS 39 house of Colonel Grant is marked as south of the hospital or Indian Council House. By measuring the position of the house marked " the Eangers' Barracks," in the map of 1790, it must have been almost in a straight line from the " slip " at the wharf now, and on a height, and this would confirm the statement that the first Butler's Barracks was on the hill now occupied by a peach orchard, as there the buttons of Butler's Eangers are found. As showing that the present buildings, called Butler's Barracks, were not burned in the war of 1813, an article in the Upper Canada Gazette, of March, 1815, tells of a ball held there, given by Peter Turquoid, Deputy Commissioner General. The last British troops of the regular army stationed there were the Eoyal Canadian Eifles, formed from old soldiers who had filled in their time and re-enlisted. This had been recommended by General Brock to prevent the frequent desertions from frontier stations, but his sugges tion was not carried out for thirty years. The last regiment to occupy the buildings was the Queen's Own, in 1865. A picture is in existence showing the men drawn up between the Hospital and the Barracks. Early in 1865 Mr. Charles Hunter tells of the company of the Barrie Eifles, to which he belonged, being quartered in several of the buildings of Butler's Barracks. In the picture just mentioned the buildings were surrounded by a palisade, but no trace of this remains at the present day. Fort Mississauga.* Of this fort it has been said that from it no gun has been fired in anger. It is believed that the earthworks were marked out previously, though the tower in the centre was not built till 1814; but there were several batteries * From Handbook of American Indians, by Bureau of Eth nology, we find over eighty spellings of this word, — Missis- sague, Misissaque, Mississaga, etc. From a letter of Mrs. Jennoway, written from Hope Cottage, Fort George, August, 1814, it is seen that Fort Mississauga was constructed by her husband, Captain Jennoway, R. E., in 1814, as also the earth works at Queenston. 30 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA in 1813-13. An Act passed in 1803 refers to the light house at Mississauga Point at the entrance to the Niagara Eiver. The lighthouse-keeper, Dominick Henry, an old Cornwallis soldier, was here till 1814, when the lighthouse was taken down and the materials, with debris from the ruined town, used to erect the tower. The broken bricks may plainly be seen in the massive walls five feet thick. In a sketch of 1834 several buildings are seen, and also in Lossing's History of 1860; but these buildings, mostly of logs, were used for the breakwater in front of the Queen's Hotel, and now nothing remains but the tower, the earthworks, the brick magazines and traces of the palisades worn away by the encroachment of the lake, which every year, it is said, robs the military reserve of three feet of soil. Many can recall the former appearance of the fort, with its cannons on the wall, and in the enclosure piles of cannon balls in the usual pyramidal form. When the fort was dismantled at the recall of troops from Canada it was gradually allowed to fall into decay, and it was an unwholesome and unpleasant building to visit. Accident ally a fire occurred, and all the woodwork was consumed. It was then a ruin indeed. A small grant having been given by the Dominion Government, a roof was put on, with dormer windows, from which a grand view of river, lake and plain may be obtained; but it is to be deplored that in thus making it weatherproof the idea of a fort seems to have been lost sight of. A fort with dormer windows, indeed! Although the history of this fort is not so romantic as that of the stronghold opposite, nor of Port George, yet if each particular brick in its walls could tell its tale, what a record should we have of that December night, as well as of many incidents in the early days of Newark ! " The fragments of its walls and hearths were built Into that stern memorial of a deed unchivalrous." The engineers' quarters stood where the Queen's Eoyal now stands, and the old Blue House near the shore, the Guard House at the foot of King Street. BUTLEE'S BAEEACKS 31 The Phbnch Thorns. Between Butler's Barracks and Navy Hall is an oak grove skirted with hawthorns to which is attached a legend. In the memory of some now living those trees were called the " French Thorns," and the story is that French officers stationed at Port Niagara brought the slips from Prance, and thus we have in June such fragrant snow-white blos soms. The tradition has been woven into a ballad in one of the Canadian Idylls. It is a matter of regret that these poems, commemorating as they do so many stirring events of Canadian history, are so little known. The ballad, " Spina Christa," in the " Queen's Birthday," gives the story of the thorns. The trees are of two varieties, called by the children early and late "haws," and give pleasure in October with their rich scarlet fruit. It is said that only in the neighborhood of garrison towns are these thorns found. By any curious explorer the thorn trees the poet, William Kirby, must have had in his mind's eye may be easily found twisted and distorted as described. CHAPTEE VIII. AMERICAN OCCUPATION, MAY S7th TO DECEMBER 10th, 1813. For six months no further attack was made of any importance, the American Government devoting itself to preparing a large force that would, this time without fail, repair the disasters of the past. After the taking of York on April 37th, early in May a large force, military and naval, of six thousand, crossed over under Chauncey and Dearborn, but did not attack the town till May 36th. The guns from Port Niagara joined in the attack, and many buildings in Port George were destroyed, the people in the town taking refuge in their cellars. Fort Mississauga was not then built, but batteries were placed at different points, from Port George to the lighthouse, where the tower of Port Mississauga now stands. The enemy's force con sisted of six thousand men, soldiers and sailors, seventeen armed vessels, and one hundred and thirty-four boats and scows, each with thirty to fifty men. To face this array General Vincent had only fourteen hundred men at different points on the frontier, not half of them at Niagara. A landing was made by the Ameri can forces on Crooks' farm on the morning of May 37th, on what is now known as the Chautauqua grounds. A heavy fog part of the time prevented our troops from seeing the enemy. The forces engaged on our side were less than six hundred, consisting of part of the King's 8th, the Glengarry Light Infantry, Eoyal New foundland and 41st Eegiment. The attack was bravely resisted, the enemy repulsed three times, our force.< gradually falling back through the town. A stand was made at the Presbyterian church, where field guns had been placed. Lately the remains of a soldier of the King's 8th were found there, as shown by the buttons. Another stand was made near the home of Hon. William Dickson. 32 AMEEICAN OCCUPATION 33 Having lost heavily from the much superior numbers, Vincent gave orders at noon to retreat, first to Queenston and then to Burlington. As showing how our men stood firm, of 310 of the King's 8th, 196 were killed or wounded, 73 out of 108 of the Glengarry Light Infantry, and 14 out of 40 of the Eoyal Newfoundland. During the engage ment there were on our side 567 against 2,300, but although more of the enemy landed no pursuit was made. The enemy on entering Fort George found several of our sol diers taking down the flag from the flagstaff, who were made prisoners. The period of the American occupation is the most difficult to give in the history of the town. As the men were nearly all away, either as prisoners or fighting in the defence of their country, there were not many left but women and children; many had fled for safety to other parts of the country. The real history could only be gleaned from diaries kept or letters written to distant friends, and we fancy there was not much of either done; the letters, if preserved, would be in distant homes, so that we have only a few items gathered from conversations with descendants of those then living in the town, and a very few letters and documents. A letter from the Hon. William Dickson, at Albany, dated August 14th, 1813, complains of himself and others being taken prisoners on June 19th, in violation of the promise of General Dearborn, having been sent from Fort Niagara, travelling three hundred miles in fifty-seven days. A list dated December 11th, 1813, gives the names of non-combatants to whom passports were given to return, signed January 26th, 1814. The names of those taken prisoners were : William Dickson, barrister ; John Syming ton, Joseph Edwards, Andrew Heron, John -Grier, John McEwen, all merchants; James Muirhead, surgeon; John Crooks, clerk to James Crooks; John McFarland, boat- builder; Ealfe Clench, clerk of the peace; John Powell, registrar ; George Lane, usher to Legislative Council ; Jacob Ball, farmer; John Decew, E. Kerr, James Baldwin, T. Powis, Alexander Macdonell, William Eoss, John Jones, J. Williams, J. Bradt, Baxter, Jones. 4 34 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Mrs. William Dickson, when the town was burnt, was ill in bed, and was carried out ; she lay on the snow watch ing the destruction of the house with a fine library valued at £600. Mrs. McKee, whose husband was a prisoner at the Fort, on the death of a child, refused to have it buried till the husband and father could come to the funeral. He was blindfolded and brought over with a guard and returned the same way. When the town was destroyed by fire they had seven buildings burnt — the store with valuable goods from Montreal, a soap and candle manu factory, two dwelling-houses, etc. They packed fifteen trunks with valuable goods, and their friend, the father of the late Doctor Eolls, sent for them to his home near St. Catharines. The mother, to save her little girl from standing in the snow while watching the conflagration, placed her on a large tea tray ; but in spite of all, her toes were partially frozen. On reaching the Eight Mile Creek the trunks were buried and covered with brushwood to be safe from marauders. Mrs. Follett remembers that her mother, Mrs. Whitten, daughter of Samuel Cassady, told her that on the day of the attack Mrs. Cassady walked out to Butler's farm for safety, and the daughter, Jane, after wards Mrs. Whitten, carried her little brother on her back. They stayed all night in the barn, and the mother returned to town in the morning to see how matters stood. The house was on Queen Street near Mr. John Sandow's, and was found to be occupied by American officers. She had left bread, recently baked, in the home, and they offered to let her return on condition that she would bake for them, they supplying one hundred pounds of flour and she giving one hundred pounds of bread, and to have the additional loaves for herself. This she did all summer — a proof, n* doubt, that Mrs. Cassady made good bread. Mr. Andrew Heron, the librarian, was a prisoner at Greenbush, and found on his return that his wife and infant child, after wards Mrs. Dugdale, had been carried out on the snow while the town was burning. The house of Mr. Ealfe Clench was not burnt, as shown in the " Proceedings of the Loyal and Patriotic Society," but was burned accidentally shortly after, when seventeen inmates, Clench and Stewart families, who were cousins, were made homeless. The late John AMEEICAN OCCUPATION 35 Eogers told me that he was a boy of nine, and distinctly remembers being on the street when a cannon ball, fired from Fort Niagara, passed near him. Their house could have been saved, as they had relatives among the officers, but were told this might injure them, as they would have been thought disloyal and sympathizers with the enemy. It is said that one of the beautiful mantels in the present house was saved by Mrs. Eogers, who carried it out herself. Mrs. Winterbottom was in a house on Prideaux Street where American officers boarded. An Indian came in one day and demanded liquor; her child, the late W. B. Winter- bottom, ran screaming that his mother was being killed, as, on her refusal, the Indian raised his tomahawk to strike, but an officer fortunately passing by struck it down with his sword. During the bombardment people retreated to their cellars, some hung blankets over their windows, some took refuge after the burning in caves dug in the side of a hill. In a letter from Alexander Wood stating the claims of Mrs. Campbell, widow of Fort-Major Campbell, for war losses, it is said that she and her three young children without the possibility of saving their clothing, were exposed to the elements for three days, and a few valuables she had saved were torn from her. She had carried her infant four miles for baptism, and afterwards had to dig its grave and cover its remains. During the greater part of the seven months the Ameri can force was closely besieged and was really shut in, the British being in a semicircle around them. Numerous engagements took place, one in Ball's field, the ladies look ing on from the windows. In one of the engagements Mrs. Lawe went and carried off her boy, aged thirteen, from the field of battle, as he had gone to take his share in the fight. On August 13th the inhabitants must have been startled and amazed when Lieut-Colonel O'Neil, with thirty Dra goons, covered the advance of Lieut.-Colonel Harvey into the town, scouring several of the .streets as far as the Presbyterian church, recovering a box from the former quarters of Colonel Harvey, the enemy keeping up a brisk fire from houses and garden walls, our troops retiring in good order and with little loss. We find that the Pres byterian church was set on fire in September, before the 36 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA town was burned. Meanwhile the American forces, shut in and forbidden to leave their camp after their defeats at Stoney Creek and Beaver Dams, were suffering from alarm ing sickness. Doctor Mann, the United States surgeon, says more than one-third were on the sick list from effluvia from sinks. When seven hundred men were in hospital there were only three surgeons fit for duty. There was rain in June; great heat in July and August; in October and November more rain. The diseases were typhus, diar rhoea and dysentery. A flying hospital was established at Lewiston, being higher ground. The Crooks family left Crookston, One Mile Creek, for Thorold, at twelve at night, May 26th, carrying a child of ten, which was helpless. Old Jacob Ball's wife also went to Thorold, carrying a child. The log house at Crookston, as told by the late W. M. Ball, was swimming with blood from the wounded carried in from the battlefield. The Eev. John Carroll, in " My Boy Life," tells of a cannon ball coming through the walls of their house the day of the battle, and of the mother and children taking refuge at the Pour Mile Creek, carrying with them a feather bed, all they saved, as everything they owned perished after wards. It is told that there were, when the town vras taken, three hundred prisoners in the jail, many of them political prisoners. Mrs. Edgar, from the Eidout papers, gives some interesting particulars of the foraging of the British, the farmers around suffering sometimes as much from one force as the other; and after the town was destroyed more damage was done the next summer by order of General Eiall, when in July, there being a strong probability of an attack on Forts George and Mississauga, orders were given to level all the chimneys and walls still standing and cut down all orchards in the town which would afford cover to an enemy between the forts. In Wm. Hamilton Merritt's journal he speaks of seeing the glare from the burning town, and in the advance of Colonel Murray noth ing was to be seen but heaps of coals and streets full of furniture. The following list gives houses burned in the town and near it, and the supposed value. The first twelve and a AMEEICAN OCCUPATION 37 few others lived in the outskirts. Descendants of perhaps a dozen of those mentioned are still found living here, but of others the name is forgotten: Isaac Swayzie, house and barn £200 William Dickson, brick house 1,000 M. McLellan, house and stable 100 M. Bellinger, barn 125 Castel Chorus, barn 125 T. Butler, house, stable, barn 200 J. Butler, stable, barn 350 J. Secord, house, stable, barn 1,200 P. Ball, stable, barn 800 J. Ball, stable, barn 1,000 J. Crooks, stable, barn 625 G. Lawe, stable, barn 200 T. Merritt, stable, barn 400 Rev. J. Burns, house 60 J. McKay, barn 60 J. Symington, house, barn 400 J. Clark, house 400 R. Clench, house, stable 150 J. McParlane, house, etc 100 C. Gesseau, two houses 400 Doctor Holmes, house 100 Doctor Kerr, house, stable 650 Mrs. E. Thompson, two houses 500 A. McKee, two houses 600 Mrs. Porsyth, house, etc 1,250 G. Slingerland 200 J. Eggleston, three houses 750 T. Powis, two houses 1,250 Doctor Muirhead 500 Mrs. Stewart 500 McKean & McEwan 1,000 A. Heron 700 W. Dorman 150 D. Hartman 100 A. Rogers 400 S. Bunting 100 P. De Jordan 100 S. Cassady 150 Children of J. Kelly 150 Mrs. Rose Fields 750 J. Monroe 200 D. Secord, house of John 200 Mrs. Wright 150 Estate of — Fitzgerald 100 J. Grier 750 38 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA ¦ ¦ J. Crooks £1,000 J. Young 1,000 W. Dickson 1,000 Estate of J. Emery 1.000 J. Edwards 500 Mrs. Bradshaw 150 J. Rogers 250 Mrs. Prey 300 J. Saunders 100 J. 50 Estate of D. Phelps 100 Colonel P 600 Estate of C. McNabb 50 E. Vanderlip 1,000 Mrs. Hill 500 A. Garner 450 Major Campbell's estate 350 P. Waddel estate 350 J. Clark estate 250 Colonel Claus 1,000 J. Powell 300 Mrs. McBride 300 J. Adlem 25 Estate of J. Jones 650 Joined the enemy: — W. W £250 J. Wagstaff 250 J. Doty 375 P. Howell 500 S. Thompson 750 In Niagara eighty houses, barns, stables. It was only after many years that a part of this was paid, coming in instalments. In the " Eeport of the Loyal and Patriotic Society " formed at York, December, 1812, are frequently found names of Niagara people receiving help, also the names of those who distributed help. Large sums were raised in England, Nova Scotia, Jamaica, York, Kingston, Amherstburg, Montreal, Quebec, etc., amounting to about fifty-two thousand dollars. Contributions also in kind were given. Money was entrusted to Eev. E. Addison and Thomas Dickson to distribute, chiefly in Niagara. Eev. John Bums distributed in Stamford, Widow Secord at St. David's, and Mr. S. Street at the Palls. The money sent from Nova Scotia 0 0 p O ij '« E^ '0: tf .3: P 2 o 5 a S ^ 1 AMEEICAN OCCUPATION 39 in 1814 was applied for those whose houses had been burned, and a plan was arranged to favor those whose property was the least value, and those whose houses were more valuable had a smaller percentage. Some obtained the half, others a fifth or sixth — a sort of sliding scale. The houses burnt at Newark and on the line to Port Erie were valued at £36,000, but of those not supposed to be in distress £23,000 was not counted on, leaving £14,000. The amount sent from Nova Scotia was £2,500, which was apportioned as equitably as could be done. The money raised from other sources was applied to those actually in want — soldiers' widows, orphans, etc. The volume published by the Society gives much curious information. Eelief was given in eight hundred and eight cases, and particulars are given on the opposite pages. A few extracts may be given. Bishop Strachan was the treasurer, and the accounts seen to have been kept in the most systematic manner : " To Mrs. Law, £12 10s., wife of Captain Law, of the 1st Eegiment Lincoln militia, who was severely wounded May 27th, and was carried over the river a prisoner with the enemy; his son was killed by his side in the battle ; his house and barn burnt ; and Mrs. Law and two children left without support. Dominick Henry, who kept the lighthouse at Niagara and was extremely meritorious ; his wife was very active in assisting the troops on May 27th, giving them refreshments during the battle — quite a heroine, not to be frightened; £25 given as a present in acknowledgment. Mrs. Ida Hill. — This lady had an excellent property in the town of Niagara, or Newark, consisting of two houses. Being a widow with her daughter, she was induced to remain after the retreat of General Vincent, May 27th. For some time she was treated with some consideration by the American officers; but matters changed, and she found it necessary to depart, leaving all her property, especially as General Boyd assured her positively that they had orders to burn the town in case of being forced to retreat. She was given £50 to take her to Jamaica. Captain David Secord was very active during the war; was plundered; has twelve children and an aged father upwards of one hundred years old to support, but being still in good circumstances, though a little pressed 40 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA at the time, the Society ordered him £13 10s. Mrs. Prey, widow of the late Captain Bernard Prey, who was killed by a cannon ball May 37th. Her crops destroyed, fences and buildings at cross roads, likewise her house in Niagara, laid waste by the enemy. She was given £13 10s. Mrs. Stewart's home was burnt and she was reduced to great distress, with a large family. She was given £35." It is said of Eev. E. Addison, that he " was frequently employed to distribute the benevolence of the Society, and he had given £35, beyond the sums given him, to various dis tressed persons who came back to Niagara after it was burnt and lived in roothouses and cellars, and under a few boards leaning upon the chimneys still standing. The £35 is now entered as paid him. Samuel Winterbottom. — This man, very deserving, was reduced through his loyalty, the enemy making a point to distress all the loyal inhabitants. He was ordered £35. To Widow Secord was given to dis tribute by Thomas Dickson, £110 to sufferers in St. Davids, and the Society are convinced that it was most faithfully and usefully distributed." When the town was burnt one hour's notice was given to the inhabitants to try to save their furniture. The scene cannot be described, and we wish not to dwell on the bitter feelings aroused. The American commander, McClure, claimed that the order left with him in October sustained him in his action, but on him rests the blame, and bitterly the deed was avenged. CHAPTEE IX. FORT NIAGARA. It may be said, why include this in the story of Niagara ? But considering the fact that, being constantly in our view, it furnishes the most picturesque sight which greets the eye, therefore without its history our story cannot be told completely, predating as it does our own by many years. Here British regiments were stationed, often rescuing pri soners from the Indians, children of Loyalists as well as of their opponents. It was twice besieged and taken by the British, first from the French in 1759, and again from the United States in 1813 ; twice it was given back by treaty to our Southern neighbors. Here were buried British officers, both those who fell in battle and those who died a natural death. Here a Masonic Lodge was held by the King's 8th Eegiment, and certificates granted there in 1784 are held by people of our town. The history of this spot is certainly remarkable. Held at different times by the Seneca Indians; by the French for, say, fifty years, when the fleur-de-lis floated high ; then over it for nearly forty years the meteor flag of England flew; when it was given up peacefully after the " hold-over period," 1783-1796, by Jay's Treaty, the Stars and Stripes waved to the breeze for nearly a score of years ; then, taken by the British at the point of the bayonet in December, 1813, for over a year the Union Jack fluttered from the flagstaff, till, by the Treaty of Ghent, the star-spangled banner floated, as it now does after almost a century. With the name of the fort comes to our memories the thought of the chivalrous La Salle, that man of iron, whose life was so full of vicissitudes, who so often, when the full cup of success seemed about to touch his lips, saw it dashed to the ground. The story of a life more full of high courage, of startling adventure, of many journeys, has never been recorded. 41 43 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA On December 6th, 1678, a small vessel of ten tons, from Fort Prontenac, entered Niagara Eiver ; on board. La Motte and Father Hennepin chanted Te Deum Laudamus. La Salle's vessel following, loaded with cordage, anchors, etc., for his scheme of western exploration, was wrecked west of Niagara, but the supplies were saved and taken to the spot, (long a subject of dispute), above the Falls, where the first vessel made by the paleface which sailed Lake Erie was built. A stockade vras built at Port Niagara; the men, it is said, used hot water to soften the ground; but then, Hennepin said also that the height of the Palls was five hundred feet ! This stockade was burnt in 1680. Denon- ville built a fort in 1687 and left one hundred men to garrison it. These mostly perished from disease, starva tion or attacks of the Senecas, and the fort was abandoned in 1688 ; but in 1735, by permission of the Senecas, a stone fort was built on the spot where Fort Niagara now stands, and in 1749, it is believed, the present " castle " was built, it being one of the chain of forts in that magnificent plan of the Gallic mind that was to extend to the Gulf of Mexico, and shut the English in to a narrow strip on the Atlantic seaboard. But a counter-plan, the magnificent idea of the statesman, William Pitt, was fortunately entrusted to strong and 'able hands, and French power was overthrown in this Continent. On July 1st, General Prideaux, the British commander, attacked Fort Niagara, with a force of two thousand, and one thousand Indians. General Pouchot sent westward for reinforcements, and the upper river, it is said, was black with boats of French and Indians. The fort was strong and well defended, the earthworks covering eight acres ; but Sir William Johnson, the second in command of the British force, skilfully intercepted and defeated the reinforcements, and, hopeless of other help, the fort capitu lated on July 34th, nearly two months before Wolfe took Quebec. General Pouchot marched out with the honors of war on July 25th, the soldiers laying down their arms on the shore of the lake. General Prideaux had been killed on the 20th, and Sir William Johnson, in his diary, says his body was buried in the chapel with that of Colonel Johnson, "with great form," Sir William being chief The Castle, Fort Niagara, N. Y. FORT NIAGARA, ERECTED 1725 AND 1749. JOINT FUNERAL, JUNE 25, 1911. POET NIAGAEA 43 mourner. The location of the graves of these two British officers has lately been a subject of discussion. The chapel, a Eoman Catholic one, was taken down, and whether the bodies were removed or not is uncertain. John Eoss Eob ertson, who has been so fortunate in unearthing valuable records, discovered a map in the British Museum showing the position of all the buildings in 1759, and from this the chapel must have been in the parade ground near the north-eastern opening in the wall. But an old lady who died lately. Miss Hosmer, asserted that she remembered seeing, as a schoolgirl, a stone in the military graveyard with the name of General Prideaux. In this case the body had been removed. It is only fitting that some kind of memorial should be placed on the spot where lie buried two British officers who gave their lives for Britain's glory. Two streets in our town are named respectively after the two generals in command — ^Prideaux and Johnson. While in the hands of the French, there stood in the centre of the fort enclosure a cross, eighteen feet high, with the inscription, " Eegn, Vine, Imp. Chris." In a footnote to one of the Canadian Idylls our poet says, " The interpre tation of this inscription admits of as much ambiguity as a Delphic oracle," but in the ballad it is expressed, "Eegnat, Vineit, Imperat, Christus," — ^Christ reigns, conquers, governs. Prom Port Niagara, marched, in 1763, troops with twenty-five wagons and one hundred horses and oxen, to accompany stores over the portage from Lewiston to Schlosser. On the return the next day, laden with furs, they met an ambuscade of Seneca Indians, and of the hundred only three escaped. Hearing the firing, another force vras sent to their relief, only to meet the same fate; eight only reached Fort Niagara to tell the tale, and the larger party sent found only the mangled corpses to tell of this plan, bold and skilful in formation, masterly in execution, gained as so many Indian attacks, by secret and deadly ambuscade. The spot has since been called the Devil's Hole. In 1764 Sir William Johnson met over two thousand Indians from distant points, and a treaty was made July 18th. Stirring times followed during the Eevolutionary 44 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA War. British regiments were stationed here — Butler's Eangers, the Queen's Eangers, Indians. A procession tinged with red flits before the eye — tomahawks, scalps, prisoners, a sight softened by the appearance of food for the hungry, and British officers and their wives buy ing from the Indians white children who had been cap tured and adopted into the tribe. Prom this fort went out the expeditions to Wyoming and Cherry Valley in revenge for sufferings inflicted, and to rescue friends in captivity. King's stores were served out to starving Indians and white fugitives, — an ever-shifting scene. In 1783 commenced the general movement to the west side of the river, but this fort was, with others, not to be given up till the terms of the treaty to recompense United Empire Loyalists, whose property had been confiscated, were carried out (which was never done). In 1796, after thirteen years, called the " hold-over period," the fort was given up and soldiers and stores removed to Fort George. The next exciting period in the history of the fort was during the War of 1812. During the Battle of Queenston Heights, Fort Niagara and Fort George bombarded each other, and again on the 27th of May, 1813. "\¥hen, after seven months' occupation of Niagara, the Americans aban doned it, after setting fire to the town on the 10th of December, and the British marched in, a plan was speedily formed to take possession of the Port. A small force, con sisting of portions of the 100th and 41st Eegiments, under Colonel Murray, started from a point four miles up the river, piloted by Daniel Fields and James McFarland, landed at Youngstown, and marched in silence to the fort, which was taken, with considerable bloodshed. Partisan accounts tell that our forces bayoneted those in the hospital, but this is disproved, the only reason for the tale being told, being that one account says that some of the men in the hospital rose from their beds and went out to fight. In such a case they met as combatants in war, and on equal terms. Three hundred prisoners were taken, three thousand stands of arms and an immense quantity of stores captured. The commander, Leonard, absent for the night, returned to find himself a prisoner. For a year, till the close of the war early in 1815, the fort was in the hands of the British. POET NIAGAEA 45 The buildings are, besides the castle, the two blockhouses, the long, low French soldiers' barracks, the bakehouse, the hot shot furnace, and the life-saving station. A more gruesome tale than that of open and honorable warfare is that in this stronghold was confined Morgan, the betrayer of the secrets of Masonry, and the building is still shown from which, in 1826, it is said he was taken to be drowned in the waters of blue Ontario. During the years since the war the United States Gov ernment has spent large sums in improving and keeping up the fortifications. A wall has been built, buildings of brick erected under the earthworks, which would shelter a large force, officers' quarters and barracks have been built, a life-saving station established, and a new lighthouse built (the light was formerly on the top of the caistle). Early inhabitants of Youngstown remember that the land ex tended quite a distance out from the fort, and that an orchard of peach and apple trees has disappeared with the force of the relentless waves. The point is a famous spot for black bass fishing. In July, 1911, a remarkable ceremony took place. The remains of soldiers of the King's 8th Eegiment had been found and a joint funeral of Canadian and United States soldiers was held. An interesting photograph shows Ameri can soldiers carrying the coffin with the remains of British soldiers covered with the Union Jack. A similar friendly act had taken place at Lundy's Lane some years before, when the remains of United States soldiers of 1814 were interred by our soldiers and those of New York State. CHAPTEE X. NIAGARA LIBRARY, 1800-1820. Several places have claimed the honor of having had the first library in Ontario, but by Niagara facile princeps the right is claimed, no one now contradicting. Like the old yellow book found by Eobert Browning in Florence, " my find," by the merest chance, of the old brown leather- covered record book of this library, proved a rich and unex pected treat. To my astonishment, by dint of much study of its thick yellow pages covered with writing which though large is yet very difficult to read, it was shown that in this old town of Niagara, in those early days, there was a most valuable public library, well supported, the accounts show ing regular payments and much interest as evinced by the sums contributed and the regular records. The varied information gleaned from the old book may be thus classi fied: (1), the list of proprietors; (2), list of their pay ments, and also those of non-subscribers; (3) catalogue of library with prices of books; (4), money expended; (5), rules and regulations; (6), minutes of annual meetings, contingent meetings, etc. ; (7), list of books taken out and date of return; (8), alphalDetica] list of subscribers, with separate pages for entries for each during these years. It says much for the members of any community when we find them providing reading of a high literary order, and especially -would this fee the case at the beginning of the last century among a band of refugees just emerged from a great struggle with the forest around them, and everything speaking of a new country and all that is implied in this; but when we think of the vicissitudes of the years 1812, 1813, 1814, and of the stirring events which took place here, military occupation by friend and foe, of fire and sword alternately doing their cruel work, we wonder how this library was preserved; for preserved in part it was, as the issue of books goes on, a new catalogue appearing, with spaces left, perhaps for books missing; and in the accounts it is seen that sums are paid to replace particular boolcs. It is interesting to follow up the work 46 NIAGAEA LIBEAEY, 1800-1830 47 during the war and note the latest entry ; then an interval of two years, and, without the break of a line left as space between such events as the death of Brock, the rattle of guns and roar of cannon, the flight over frozen plains, the smoking ruins of happy homes, it still goes on in the same handwriting, vidth items on payments of money, purchase of books, the annual meetings, etc. It may be doubted if in this day of boasted enlightenment we are willing to pay as much for our reading. One thing at least is certain — against the proprietors of this library cannot be made the charge of light reading now brought so justly against the frequenters of modern libraries. Nothing light or trashy can be found on the list of theology, history, travel, biogra phy, agriculture, a little poetry, and later, a small amount of fiction. We in these days can almost envy the people of that time for the delight they must have experienced when " Waverley " or " Guy Mannering " appeared, for they knew that the " Great Magician of the North " was still alive and sending out regularly those delightful stories, while we can never again hope for such pleasure as the first reading of these stories evoked. In glancing over the list of subscribers we meet with names of many who plaved no insignificant part — ^the church, the army, the civil service, the yeomanry, are all represented. There are names from Port Niagara (N.Y.). Grimsby, Stamford, Thorold, etc., and several names of women. It seems strange that we can take the name of a noted man, tell what style of reading he preferred, when a particular book was taken out, when returned, and how he paid his fees, or attended meetings. The first entry is : " Niagara Library, 8th June, 1800. Sensible how much we are at a loss in this new and remote country for every kind of useful knowledge, and convinced that nothing would be of more use to diffuse knowledge amongst us and our offspring than a library supported by subscription in this town; we whose names are hereunto subscribed hereby associate ourselves together for that pur pose, and promise to pay annually a sum not exceeding four dollars, to be laid out on books as agreed upon by a major ity of votes at a yearly meeting to be held by us at this town on the 15th of August annually, when everything 48 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA respecting the library will be regulated by the majority of votes." Here follow the names, "41 subscribers at 24s. each; £49 4s. carried to account current, page B, 15th August, 1801." Of the original forty-one the names of only three can now be found in the vicinity, though descendants of three others may be found under other names. The first on the list, Andrew Heron, was the secretary and treasurer for nearly all the period of twenty years. Eobert Addison was the first minister of St. Mark's ; Silvester Tiffany was the printer of T'he Upper Canada Gazette at one time. There is another list of thirty-four, making seventy-five in all. The familiar names of Dickson, Butler, Claus, Hamilton, and Clement occur. That of Swayzie has been made familiar in the name of a delicious russet apple grown on the farm of this member of the library. At the first annual meeting, Andrew Heron and Martin McLellan were made commissioners to arrange the business of the society. Five rules were drawn up as follows : "Eule I. — To receive from every subscriber, three dol lars and no more. "Eule II. — As soon as thirty dollars is collected, to lay it out on books, none of which shall be irreligious or immoral. " Eule III. — Every member may, if he chooises, when he pays his subscription, make the choice of a book, which shall be procured for him with all convenient speed. " Eule IV. — As soon as a number of books can be pro cured (not less than fifty volumes), every subscriber shall be entitled to receive any book that remains in the library that he chooses, which he shall return in one month in good order. " Eule V. — No book shall be allowed to any of the sub scribers unless they have first paid their subscription." Here follows a list of books, Nos. 1 to 80, received into the library to March, 1801. It is remarkable that the first thirty volumes are all of a religious nature, volumes 1, 2 and 3 being Blair's Ser mons. The names of Watts, Bunyan, Boston, Newton, Doddridge, Wilberforce, Watson, Owen and Willison are seen. An attempt is even made to give guidance to young NIAGAEA LIBEAEY, 1800-1830 49 people in an important crisis of life, as No. 38 is "Eeligious Courtship." It is not till we reach No. 34 that any history, travel, or poetry appears. The first purchase of eighty volumes, costing £31 17s., furnished the young people of these forty-one homes in poetry, only Ossian, Cowper's " Task," Campbell's " Pleasures of Hope" ; but they might revel in the " Citizen of the World " and the " Eambler," Brace's "Travels," or Eobertson's " History of Charies V.," and if "Eeligious Courtship" pleased them not as No. 38, No. 70 is simply " Letters on Courtship." The only work of a less specific gravity is No. 73, " The Story Teller," which we hope was pleasing to the children of these house holds. The record of annual meetings, always spelled "annuall," goes on till 1813, when the town was in the hands of the Americans, and 1814, when heaps of ruins replaced happy homes; also in 1819 there was no meeting. The question as to how many of the books were preserved and how they were saved is an unsolved problem. Of course, a large number were in circulation in the town and tovmship, and while some were burnt others would be saved, but it is cer tain that a great many of the books of the library were saved, as afterwards, from the issue of books given out and returned day after day, it may be seen what books were not destroyed; and that many were lost or destroyed is also certain, as in the accounts for next year the names. of books are given " to replace those missing." There is a new catalogue with spaces left. There were six trustees, " two fresh ones " to be chosen each year. Old members to pay two dollars and new mem bers four dollars. Those out of town could take two books at once, and keep them six weeks, and if out of the town ship, two months. If not returned in time, a fine of six pence currency per week was imposed for every week of detention. Any member withdrawing could give his right to any other person approved by the trustees. In 1801 there were 150 books, and George Young was to make a case for a reasonable price, which proved to be £5 2s. In 1803 Mr. Tiffany was to print the laws of the society and be allowed three dollars for not less than seventy copies, 6 50 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA one to be given to each subscriber, and the librarian is to enforce the law as to fines for detention of books. New members were to pay five dollars, and next year this was raised to six. In 1804 appears the first payment to the librarian, cer tainly a modest allowance. This library seems to have solved the difficulty of keeping down expenses, as through all these years there is no outlay for firewood, for rent, or for light, the allowance to the librarian being a percentage on money paid by what are called non- subscribers : "Eesolved, that Andrew Heron be librarian for the ensuing year, and be allowed twelve and one-half per cent. of all the moneys collected for the last twelve months from non-subscribers, and the same for the year to come, and shall be obliged to make good all the books that may be lost by non-subscribers." This seems very hard on the librarian ; but he must have been a book-lover, for through all these years he remained faithful to his trust, the emolument sometimes being £1 17s. 6d. ; once £2 13s. 6d. ; for the year 1817 it was only £5 7s. ; and the largest amount was £6, which must, in these days, have seemed munificent. The original members are sometimes called proprietors and sometimes subscribers. In 1805 an addition was made to the library as well as to the members of the society, as fifty valuable books were received from the Agricultural Society. For this the fees were remitted to five members who had also been members of the Agricultural Society, and five others were given a share in the library. In 1806 each proprietor paid only one dollar a year, and new members $6.50. Jacob A. Ball and Lewis Clement were admitted in right of their fathers as members of the Agricultural Society, and Jane Crooks, eldest daughter of the late Francis Crooks, was admitted in the same way. Thus history repeats itself — as the daughters of Zelophehad demanded that the inheritance of their father should pass to them, so Miss Crooks, over three thousand years after, makes the same claim, and is as successful in obtaining her share of current literature as they in obtain ing their share of land. This is not the only woman's name on the list, as in 1815 the name of Miss Hill appears NIAGAEA LIBEAEY, 1800-1830 51 in place of her father; also in list of payments the names of Mrs. Sluny, Fort Niagara, N.Y., 6s.; Mrs. Stuart, one year, 15s. In the next few years several changes were made. Mem bers in tovm were allowed to take out two books at once ; five hundred tickets were to be procured with all convenient speed, and the number pasted on each book; shares to be sold at seven dollars each; one hundred copies of cata logue to be printed and one copy given to each proprietor. In 1807 Ealfe Clench offers to take charge of the library on the same terms, he to keep the library open from ten to twelve o'clock every day except Sunday. Another bookcase, the same as the first, was ordered for twelve dollars. Since the first was £5 3s., prices must have lowered. In 1808 Andrew Heron has prepared a room for the library, and offers to perform the duties of librarian as before. His offer was cheerfully accepted, but there was evidently some friction, as an N.B. states that as Mr. Clench refuses to give up the Tcay to the library, Andrew Heron will not be responsible for the books that may be missing. Members out of town were this year to be entitled to three books at a time. In 1809 Eev. John Burns became the new trustee in place of Hon. E. Hamilton, deceased; this year the librar ian received twenty-five per cent, of money collected as before; he is now styled librarian, treasurer and clerk. The library was to be open one hour, from eleven to twelve, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, instead of every day. In November, 1813, after the burial of Brock, about fifty books were added, making the total number 837. The next entry is August 15th, 1815. What a different state of affairs from the annual meeting of 1812, when Brock was marching to Detroit. But with intrepid courage our trustees met and made arrangements for the work of the library to go on as usual. Notwithstanding the losses to townspeople the charges are made somewhat higher ; each proprietor is called on to pay $2.50, and shares were sold at nine dollars; non-proprietors paid four dollars a year. In 1817 shares were sold at ten dollars. In 1818, the meet ing being thin, no new trustees were chosen. 52 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA The record of the last meeting of the trustees of the library reads thus : " Whereas the Niagara Library has been greatly wasted, first by being plundered by the army of the United States, and has since been greatly neglected, very few of the pro prietors having paid their quota to support the same, we, whose names are hereunto subscribed, hereby relinquish our claims on the same to Andrew Heron (who has now opened a library of his own for the use of the public), in consideration of his allowing -us the use of his library for three years. This he engages to do to all those who have paid up their yearly contributions to the year 1817 inclu sive. To those who have not paid to that period he will allow according to their deficiency in those payments. We consider those propositions as quite fair, and do thereto assent : — " James Crooks, John McEwan, " J. Muirhead, J. Butler, " John Symington, George Young, " John Wagstaff , John Grier, " John Powell." On examining the account of moneys received and ex pended from 1801 to 1818, we find that about £500 was spent on books, the sums varjdng from £46 in 1801 to £15 in 1816, and the money received from £49 in 1801 to £5 in 1818. In reading the rather monotonous 'account a pleasing variety is sometimes found, as "books sold by vendue," spelled " vandue," " fine for detain of books," "money to replace a book lost," "books and tracts pre sented," " a book of sermons sold," etc. It is not known what became of the books after they came into the possession of Mr. Heron, to whom a balance was due in 1818 of £11 9s. 9d. He must have been a man of means, as in the record book of St. Andrew's Church, of which he was treasurer, a balance was due him at one time of £176. In the period of the War of 1812-14 it is interesting to notice the few items given. Books were taken out till May 34th, 1813, three days before the to'wn was taken. A few records are made while in the possession of United States troops. On June 18th, Captain Dorman, United States, NIAGAEA LIBEAEY, 1800-1820 53 made a payment for three months, 5s. In 1814 several names of British officers are given as taking out books, and in 1815 Colonel Preddy, Colonel Harvey, Deputy Assistant Commissioner-General Lane, Major Campbell, and several officers from Port Niagara, New York, then in possession of our troops. The same years, among the books bought to replace those missing, are mentioned " The Spectator," "Don Quixote," "Joseph Andrews," "Chil dren of the Abbey," " Josephus," and Burns' poems. In 1816 books were sold at vandue, £27 New York currency, or £17. In 1817, for damage to "Life of Wellington," 17s. 6d. is paid. In 1804 Private Nicklon paid a fine of 14s. 4d. for keeping a book eighteen weeks, at 6d. sterling. Poor private, the law said 6d. currency, but from his scanty pay he is compelled to disburse this heavy tax. One entry defeated every effort to decipher till a happy guess makes it read, " November 12th, 1815. To a gownd to Mrs. Nulin, for taking care of books, 15s. 6d." Happy Mrs. Nulin, were she fond of reading, for not only might she gratify her inclination, but she also receives a " gownd " as a reward. A strange coincidence occurred while making inquiries of old residents regarding the library. So far no one had been met who had ever heard of its existence, but on calling on an old lady, a resident of the town, a postal card re ceived that day was produced. " Can you tell me anything of a public library in Niagara when the town was burnt, as I have a book which was the only one saved from the fire." The book is remembered by the owner as charred by fire, but these charred leaves have been torn away, and on an inner page is written, " This book was saved by my father, who was an officer in the British army when the town was burnt, December, 1813. The only book saved from the library. Thomas Taylor." The book is "Blos soms of Morality," No. 51 in the catalogue. As a matter of fact it was the only book then knovm to exist which belonged to the library, but since then a book has been pre sented to the Historical Society with the label, " No. 80, Niagara Library, 1801. Matthew Henry's ' Communicant's Companion,' " and since then two volumes of history have been seen in a farm house in the township, with the label. 54 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Many of the books in the catalo'gue were quite expensive. Hume's " History of England," twenty-one volumes, £7 4s. "¦ The British Theatre," twenty-five volumes, £11, might cause some of our book committees to hesitate in these days, though it staggered not our brave proprietors of those early times. The library was especially rich in works of travel and in magazines, as European Magazine, Edinburgh Review, British Critic, Annual Register, etc. Altogether we have much reason to congratulate these pioneers of civilization in this peninsula that such a taste was shown for reading of a high order, and we express the hope that the libraries of the future may be as well selected, that the public may make as great sacrifices, and support as liberally these aids to culture, and that many such secretaries and treasurers may be found, willing to give time and faithful service to secure good literature, not only for the present, but to hand down to those to come. It is fitting that a few words should be said in relation to another library in the town. A most interesting and valu able collection of books is to be found in the Eectory of St. Mark's Church, consisting also of about a thousand volumes, with many folio editions quite rare. These were formerly the property of Eev. Eobert Addison, sent out probably by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. Days, nay weeks, might be pleasantly spent in loving examination of these rare editions from Leyden, Oxford and Geneva. Well was it that they were not in any house in town in December, 1813, but being at Lake Lodge (about three miles out, part of which may yet be seen), they were saved. They were lately in possession of Dr. Stevenson, a grandson, but by the zeal of the Venerable Archdeacon McMurray they were procured and placed in the Eectory. Every book has placed in it this inscription, " Presented to St. Mark's Church by the heirs of Eev. E. Addison, to be the property of that church in perpetuity." One of the fifty-three folios is " The Complete Works of George Buchanan, 1715 — ^poems, Latin works"; "History of Scotland," "Satyr on Laird of Lydington," printed 1570 in one volume. Another folio is " Historical, Geographical, Poetical Dictionary," 1694. On the first leaf these words show that there were in those days restrictions on the pub- NIAGAEA LIBEAEY, 1800-1820 55 lication of books (these were not removed till the time of William III.) : "Whitehall, 28th January, 1691-3. I do allow tl^is work to be printed. Sydney." Another volume is " Historical Collection," Eushworth, 1659, with a strange picture of James I., and the awe-inspiring legend " Touch not mine anointed," bringing up thoughts of the length to which this doctrine was carried by that unhappy or un fortunate race. There is a prayer book, in black letter, a Breeches Bible, 1599, and Psalms, version of Stern- hold and John Hopkins, bound together. In the prayer book is the prayer offered, " That it may please Thee to bless and preserve Our Most Gracious Sovereign Queen Mary, Prince Charles, and the rest of the Eoyal Progenie." This book has been rebound in vellum. Another library, that of St. Andrew's Church, singu larly enough also numbering about one thousand volumes, came into existence August 36th, 1833, and here again we see the name of Andrew Heron in the issue of books. There was a catalogue costing 7%d. in 1835, numbering 919 books. When we think of the influences on any community of a good library we remember the words of Euskin, " We may have in our bookcases the company of the good, the noble, the wise. Here is an entree to the best society. Do you ask to be the companions of nobles; make yourselves noble. You must rise to the level of their thoughts to enter this court with its society, wide as the world, multi tudinous as its days; the chosen and the mighty of every place and time. Here you may always enter. Into this select company no wealth will bribe, no name overawe. You must fit yourself by labor and merit to understand the thoughts of these great minds. You must love them and become like them." Judge, then, how much the people of this vicinity owe to the proprietors of the Niagara public library, furnishing to the young of so many house holds reading of so high an order, fitting them to fight manfully the great battle of life. Besides the names which are mentioned on page 52 we find in the list John Kemp, John Young, John Willson, George Keefer, Peter McMicking, G. Drake, Alex. Stuart, J. McFarland, Eobert Nelles, Daniel Servos, Geo. Porsyth, Alex. McKee, John Powell, Dr. West, Jas. Secord, E. C. Cockrell, William Claus, J. P. Clement, Jacob Ball, etc. CHAPTEE XI. ST. MARK'S CHURCH. In attempting to sketch the history of St. Mark's we find an ample store of different materials — St. Mark's is a picturesque grey stone church covered with clinging ivy, with projecting buttresses and square tower peeping through the branches of magnificent old trees; there are many tablets inside and out, the tombstones hacked and defaced by the rude hand of war; there is an old register dating back to 1792, kept with scrupulous neatness, its pages giving an ever-shifting kaleidoscopic view of different nationalities, of pioneer life, of military occupation, of the red man, Britain's faithful ally, of the poor slave here freed by legal enactment, of waifs and strays from all lands, while the vicinity tells of French occupation two hundred years ago, and of booming cannons and blazing roof-trees a century ago. It has been commonly supposed that the church was built in 1793, since the Eegister has that date; but recent investigations have fixed the date ten years later — 1804- 1809. Eev. E. Addison did not come as the minister of Niagara, but as a missionary to the adjacent country, his parish being a very extensive one. He was appointed to Newark in 1797. Investigation at the Archives and in early books of travel brought to light many references showing, first, that £100 was granted to each of four places to build a church as soon as wardens were appointed and subscrip tions made, but in 1798 no part of this money had been applied for, except in Kingston. But in 1803 in Niagara, Sandwich, York and Cornwall, the people were building or preparing to build. In Mrs. Simcoe's Diary, July 29th, 1792, she says, " There is no church here, but we met for Divine service in the Free Mason's Lodge." In 1795 the Duke de la Eochefoucauld-Liancourt says, " No church has been built." Colonel Clark's diary says that liberal sub- 56 ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 57 scriptions were given in 1802 and the Episcopal Church built in 1804. A report of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel gives an extract from the report of Mr. Addison in 1810, in which he says, " The church at Niagara, the best in the Province, was finished in 1810." But by the kindness of Eev. Cyril de M. Eudolf, London, England, copious extracts have been sent to us from the records of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel containing the yearly reports of Mr. Addison. Somewhat similar extracts have been sent us also by the courtesy of Professor Young, Trinity College, Toronto. In 1805, the report says, " The church is begun and half up." In 1808, " The church advances slowly." In January, 1810, " Divine service has been performed in the church since last August. They began upon too large a scale for their means, but have entered into a fresh subscription." Now that the modern tourist has invaded our quiet town and learned of the beauties with which we are so familiar I am always pleased to remember, that though not my own church, I always loved and admired St. Mark's, that it was my ideal of an old English parish church and church yard, and in those early days the tourist had not come to oracularly tell us what to admire. When the late lamented Dean Stanley visited St. Mark's he said, " This is a piece of old England ; do not allow it to be altered." The register of St. Mark's is unique in this particular, that in the cen tury there have been only three incumbents — one with a record of thirty-seven years, another twenty-seven, and Archdeacon McMurray, of thirty-six years. The Eev. E. Addison must have had a vein of quiet humor, as shown from the quaint remarks interpolated here and there alike at baptism, wedding or burial. He was evidently a scholar and a lover of books. His library, now stored in the rectory, has many rare and curious old books to rejoice the heart of the bibliomaniac. The first entries in the register are, "August 23rd, 1792 — Henry Warren, bachelor, to Catherine Aglow, spinster; August 24th — Capt. James Hamilton to Louisa Mitchell, his wife. They had been previously married by some commanding officer or magis trate and thought it more decent to have the office repeated." " April 12th, 1794^-William Dixon, bachelor, to Charlotte 58 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Adlem, spinster." This should be spelled Dickson. " May 15th — Buried Colonel John Butler, of the Eangers (my patron)." Here is a pathetic entry, followed by a strange statement : " July, 1794 — Buried a child of a poor stranger called Chambers. September 9th — Buried a soldier sur feited by drinking cold water " — another never to be explained tragedy. " Alas ! he was starved." " Baptisms, September 3rd, Cloe, a mulatto." "Married, John Jacks and Eose Moore, negroes." These must have come as slaves, but by the Act of 1793, passed in Navy Hall, free dom was to be given to children at a certain age, while all born in the country were free, and also all who came after the Act passed — this long before England, after a hard-fought struggle, made her chattels free, and long before our southern neighbors, by an unstinted pouring out of millions of money and a more costly treasure of tears and blood, did the same. Mr. Addison must have been indefatigable in his exertions, as we find him baptiz ing at Twelve Mile Creek, Forty Mile Creek, Ancaster, Fort Erie, Chippawa, York and Long Point. Many of these were "of riper years," as saith the record. "Buried Master Taylor of 100th Eegiment, killed by lightning." June 24th, 1799, occurs a well-known name : "Baptism, Allan Napier McNabb, from York," as also are found the names of Eidout, Givens and Maoaulay from the same place. " Buried old Mr. Dowdle — Poor old Trumper, Capt. Pilkington's gardener. Buried, , worn out by excess at the age of fifty-nine, Cut-Nose Johnson, a Mohawk Indian. Baptized, 1801, David, son of Isaac, a Mohawk chief." These slight descriptive terms show a human interest, a kind heart, a humorous vein. In the early records there is no reference to godfathers or godmothers, but in later years these abound. Here is the name of one who, whether justly or unjustly, received much blame in the War of 1812-14: "Baptism, Novem ber 20th, 1808, Augusta Margaret Firth, daughter of Colonel Henry Procter, Commandant of the 41st Eegt., and Elizabeth. Married, December 11th, 1807, Lieutenant William Procter, brother of Colonel Henry Procter, com manding at Port George, to Joan Crooks. Married Thomas MeCormiek, bachelor, to Augusta Jarvis, spinster." This ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 59 was the daughter of William Jarvis, Secretary in the time of Governor Simcoe. Here is the brief record of the burial of Sir Isaac Brock, " October 16th, 1813. Burials of General Sir Isaac Brock, Colonel John McDonald. They fell together at Queenston and they were buried together in the north-east bastion of Port George." Of course, the spelling should be Mac donell. During the time of the American occupation of the town, from May to December, 1813, the notices go on, but apparently there are no marriages, except of two Indian chiefs, " Mohawk chief Capt. Norton, to his wife, Catherine, I think on July 37th, when she was baptized, and Jacob Johnson, another Mohawk chief, to his wife, Mary, on the 31st August this year." Capt. Norton was a white man, a Scot. "Buried, July 17th, Col. C. Bishop ; died of his wounds." As this brave young soldier was buried at Lundy's Lane, Mr. Addison must have ridden all these miles to perform this service. " Married, 1817, Eev. William Samson, minister of Grimsby, to Maria Nelles." " Buried, September 33rd, 1822, Poor old Hope." " February 23rd, baptized Agnes Strachan, daughter of Hon. Dr. J. Strachan, Eector of York, and Ann, his wife." Eev. E. Addison was military chaplain for many years, and also chaplain to the Freemasons. During the American occupation he conducted Divine service for both parties. The tablet in the church to his memory reads thus : " In memory of Eev. Eobert Addison, first missionary in this district of the Venerable the Society for the Propa gation of the Cospel in foreign parts. He commenced his labors in 1792, which, by the blessing of Divine Providence, he was enabled to continue for thirty-seven years. Besides his stated services as minister of St. Mark's in the town, he visited and officiated in different parts of this and adjoining districts until other missionaries arrived. He was born in Westmoreland, England. ' Eemember them which have the rule over you.' " The church was consecrated in 1838, on Sunday, August 30th, by the Honorable and Eight Eeverend Charles James, brother of the Earl of Galloway and Bishop of Quebec, in the presence of His Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland, K.C.B,, his staff and other dignitaries. Morning prayer 60 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA (vas read by Eev. Eobert Addison, the lesson and litany by Bev. Thomas Creen, the assistant minister, the Bishop preaching. A letter from Colonel William Claus to Eev. Dr. Stuart, asking assistance from the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, shows the condition of the church after the tvar. The congregation had met in different places — the Court House, the Indian Council House, Butler's Ba/ lacks, etc. "Niagara, U.C, January 18th, 1818. " Anxious that something should be done towards rebuild ing our church which, in the winter of 1813, was unfor tunately destroyed by the enemy at the time our town was burnt, I would not take this freedom if there appeared the most distant prospect or steps taken to make it even in a state that we could attend Divine service ; but during this season it is hardly possible to attend. It remains in l;he state the Commissariat put it in for the purpose of storing provisions, after we repossessed ourselves of the frontier, with the trifling addition of a temporary reading desk and gallery for the troops. Your Lordship saw the state i"j; was in last summer. Nothing whatever has been done or likely to be done. It is not even weatherproof. The church was made use of in 1812 as a hospital for the wounded. We were deprived of our all and have barely the means of covering for ourselves and families, to which war must be attributed the melancholy state the church remains in." The next letter is dated Niagara, September 20th, 1820, and states that the small congregation previous to the War of 1812 erected the church at their own expense, which cost £1,200 currency. " After its destruction by fire, appli cation was made in 1816 to His Majesty's Government for aid; £500 sterling had been received, which falls short of accomplishing our wish. Our congregation are too poor to expect much from them. From their living within gun shot of the enemy's lines they suffered the loss of all they possessed, burnt out and plundered of everything, and they had really not yet recovered their misfortunes from the late unhappy events." ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 61 The Canadian Government had refused any compensa tion, as the church had been used by the British for war purposes. What an eventful history — used by both armies, as, after the Battle of Queenston Heights, the wounded were brought here and the church became a hospital ; then by the Americans as a barracks, and here on the flat stones may be seen the marks of hatchets and cleavers used in cutting meat. Could the stones of the church speak (and do they not speak eloquently of the past), what disputed points in our history might be cleared up. The oldest record is placed inside the eastern door, having been found partly covered up in the graveyard and placed here for safety. It is rudely carved and imperfectly spelled by some hand unskilled in, or all unused to, such work : " LENEED BLANGK "DESeaCED " 5 AUG " 1782 " It is believed that there was a graveyard here long before the church was built. In the porch at the north door of the older part of the church is a tablet, which brings back to us the rattle of musketry and rush of foemen the day Niagara was cap tured. " In memory of Captain M. McLellan, aged 43 ; Charles Wright and William Cameron, in the 25th year of their age, of the 1st Eegiment of Lincoln Militia, who glori ously fell on the 27th day of May, 1813; also Adjutant Lloyd, of the 8th King's Eegiment of Infantry. " ' As lurid lightnings dart their vivid light, So poured they forth their fires in bloody fight; They bravely fell and saved their country's cause; They loved their Constitution, King and Laws.' " The last three words, it is needless to remark, are in capital letters. In excuse for the absence of poetry in these lines, it may be said the people of those days were too busy writing history with their swords to trouble about elaborating musical couplets or quatrains. 62 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA On the eastern wall is the story of one whose tragic fate has been fondly remembered : " Sacred to the memory of Captain Copeland Eadcliffe, of his Britannic Majesty's Navy, who fell while leading on his men to board one of the enemy's schooners at anchor off Port Erie on the night of the 17th August, 1814. One tablet is erected by his nephew at the request of brothers and sisters, the other by Captain Dawes, E.N., at the request of his mother." We cannot but drop a tear to the memory of a brave young sailor. Another tablet reads, "Donald Campbell, Islay, Argyllshire, Port Major of Fort George, died 1st December, 1812. Interred on west side of Garrison Gate at Fort George." Another records that Lieutenant-Cololiel Elliot, K.C.B., fought in the Peninsular War. In the church altogether are twenty-four tablets or memorial windows; of these, eight are to military, five to clergy, five to women, and six to the Kingsmill family. The leader of the irregular force called Butler's Eangers is in certain histories held up to obloquy, but as time rolls on the partizan spirit will die out and late justice will be done to many who have received unmerited blame. "Pear God and honor the King. In memory of Colonel John Butler, His Majesty's Commissioner for Indian Affairs, born in New London, Connecticut, 1728. His life was spent honorably in the service of the Crown. In the war with Prance, for the conquest of Canada, he was distinguished at the Battle of Lake George, September, 1755; at the Siege of Fort Niagara and its capitulation, July 25th, 1759. In the War of 1776 he took up arms in defence of the unity of the empire and raised and com manded the Eoyal American Eegiment of Butler's Eangers. A sincere Christian as well as a brave soldier, he was one of the founders and the first patron of this parish. He died at Niagara, May, 1796, and is interred in the family burying ground near this town. Erected 1880." Another inscription reads: "In memory of Colonel William Kingsmill, son of the late Major Kingsmill, of 1st Eoyals, died in Toronto, 6th May, 1876, aged 82. Colonel Kingsmill .served in H. M. 66th Eegiment in the Peninsular War, and afterwards at St. Helena, during Napoleon's captivity. Subsequently in command of 3rd ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 63 Infantry Corps Battalion of Upper Canadian Militia and was Sheriff of the Niagara District. He was a gallant soldier." Colonel Kingsmill is also remembered as Superintendent of Schools in the towns. The military instinct must have been strong, as there are tablets to two sons in far-distant places, one, Captain Kingsmill, born at St. Helena, and Lieutenant Kingsmill, died at Hong Kong. Two beautiful mural tablets in the transept read thus; " In memory of the Hon. Eobert Dickson, of Woodlavm, Niagara; member of the Legislative Council of Canada, who died at Leghorn, Italy, 1846, aged 50. This tablet is erected by her who fondly cherishes the recollections of those endearing qualities which were so long the solace of her life, and who mourns her loss with a hope full of consolation." The mourning widow, dying, like her husband, far from home, is commemorated in fewer words: "In memory of Jane Jones, relict of the Hon. Eobert Dickson, of Woodlawn, Niagara, who died at Montreal, 1854, aged 60 years." A large tablet near the north door commemorates the second rector: " In memory of Eev. Thomas Creen, late Eector of Niagara. Born in Eathfriland, Ireland, November 20th, 1799 ; died at Niagara January 6th, 1864. ' How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings, that publisheth peace.' (Isaiah 52:7.)" The tablet was erected by old pupils, members of a private class. A beloved physician is thus remembered ; "In loving memory of Eobert M. Wilson, M.D., who died in Simcoe, May 31st, 1875. 'Their eyes shall behold the king in his beauty, they shall behold the land that is very far off.' " Another is in memory of Amelia Baxter, second wife of Archdeacon McMurray, and has this well-deserved praise; " This woman was full of good works and almsdeeds which she did."— Acts 9 : 36. Another has the name of Elizabeth, wife of Senator Plumb, and sister of Thos. C. Street. 64 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA A handsome brass tablet commemorates the centenary of the church, thus : " To the glory of God ! This tablet is erected by the congregation of St. Mark's Church in grateful commemor ation of the one hundredth anniversary of the foundation of this parish on the 9th July, 1792. The nave of the church was built about 1807, and burned during the War of 1812, the walls only remaining. It was restored in 1820, and enlarged to the present dimensions in 1843. During the century the living has been held by the following incumbents : the Eev. Eobert Addison, 1792 to 1829 ; the Eev. Thomas Creen, 1829 to 1857 ; the Eev. William Mc Murray, D.D., D.C.L., Archdeacon of Niagara, to the present time, assisted since 1888 by the Eev. J. C. Garrett as curate in charge." There are also tablets to the Eev. H. Cottingham and Eev. Eomaine Eolph. Three beautiful memorial stained glass windows have lately been placed in the church — that to Jahn Lees Alma, 1890, by his wife and daughters; that to Archdeacon McMurray, and to Mrs. Pell, of Buffalo, who, visiting and admiring the graveyard, expressed a wish to be buried here, and dying shortly after, her wish was complied vrith, and this beautiful window, "The Eesurrection Morn," from a painting in Italy, placed in memory. The stained glass window in the chancel is believed to be the earliest .stained glass window in an Ontario church. Its soft colors, its chaste simplicity, and yet its rich gold, purple and dark blue, move the admiration of visitors. The Eev. Thomas Creen, a native of Ireland, but edu cated at Glasgow University, became the assistant of Eev. E. Addison, and succeeded him in 1839. He was a fine speaker, a modest, benevolent man, scholarly and a good classic scholar. During his incumbency the transept was added to the nave, galleries added, and the two pulpits built, the church reseated, and many munificent gifts were made to St. Mark's, showing what loving hearts wor shipped within its walls. The beautiful tablets in the chancel, with the Commandments, Creed and Lord's Prayer, were brought from England, the money to provide them being given by the widow of the Hon. Eobert Dick- p jy aii"iM"r'-'"' ¦'^p^ - '^^^3iBB ^;» -M 8M^^' ^^Ji H|H^^^ f a^^P^^ ¦; -^^^ ^H rh jHnj 1 ^B^I^^^^^^I^K^^^^^^^I 1^^ """"^^^^WH ^^s -"^"^1 ^^^^^JL^^^E HIk. "^^^^ "-i^.. 'fKK ' '*' ^'^ >^^^^^E^^BK IBl fer - J^^^^^^^^^^^B^^^^«9^«^m ST. MARK'S CHURCH. HOUSE OF J. POWELL, 1826. Afterwards owned by Jas. Boulton and Dr. Morson. ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 65 son. The silver communion plate was given by Mrs. Downs, and the Bishop's chair by the Hon. Wm. Dickson ; the font by Mrs. Hall and Mrs. Melville. The small crimson arm chair was presented to the sexton, John Wray, when a feeble old man, by the Sunday school children, who also erected the stone in the graveyard to his memory. The money to build the rectory was partly collected in this incumbency by two sisters, Mrs. W. H. Dickson and Mrs. Woodruff. A watercolor, by an artist called D'Almaine, shows the church in 1834, quite different from its present appear ance. What is the nave of the church, or the north end, was the original church. There was a steeple instead of the square tower with the four points. The chancel was built in 1843, as may be seen by the date on the curiously carved pulpits. The missionary work of the first incumbent has been referred to, extending over so many miles, baptizing alike the dusky children of Africa and the red men of America. It is remarkable that the third rector, the Eev. Archdeacon McMurray, labored when a young man among the Indians at iSault Ste Marie; his first wife (the daughter of John Johnson and his wife, an Indian maiden), was of great use as an interpreter in his ministrations. In 1891 he paid a visit to the scene of his labors almost sixty years before, and met at the Shingwauk Home several whom he had baptized. In 1853 he was delegated to visit the neighbor ing republic to ask assistance for Trinity College. In 1854 he visited Quebec with regard to the settlement of the Clergy Eeserves, and in 1864 visited Great Britain in the interests of Trinity College. Many improvements have been made in this period. The handsome rectory was erected at a cost of $6,000, a large and full-toned organ was largely due to the liberal contribution of Geale Dick son, and the beautiful chime of bells was a memorial gift from the same gentleman and his brother, Walter A. Dickson. Also, during this incumbency, several curates have given their assistance : in the time of Mr. Creen, the Eev. Edw. Baldwin, Eev. Dr. Lundy, Eev. W. Eeynolds, and Eev. T. B. McKenzie; and in that of Dr. McMurray, the Eev. E. Stewart Jones, whose untimely death was so 6 66 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA much regretted. He had taken much interest in the young men of the congregation, and helped to form the Order of United Workmen and a temperance society. His successors were the Eev. J. B. Meade and the Eev. J. C. Garrett. On the death of Archdeacon McMurray he was succeeded by the Eev. J. C. Garrett, who for some time had been Curate-in-charge, now Eev. Canon Garrett. As the completion of the hundred years of the existence of the congregation approached, the question of holding a centennial was mooted, and also that of alterations in the church. With regard to the latter there was a difference of opinion, as some preferred the air of antiquity, the high straight-backed box pews; but it was finally decided to take out the galleries, put in new windows, new oak seats, and paint the walls ornamentally, but leave untouched the quaint carved pulpits and the chancel. Services were held on the 9th, 10th and 11th of July, and large congregations filled the church. Eighteen clergymen were present at morning service, July 9th. Addresses were given during the day by Eev. E. A. Bald win, Eev. W. Pessenden, Archdeacon McMurray and the Eev. E. Ker. The Archdeacon gave a comprehensive resume! of the work done in the hundred years. In the evening the Eev. E. Ker, of St. Catharines, read a well- prepared paper, eloquent and reminiscent of the past, closing with the words, "And now the forms of soldiers, of statesmen, of patriots, and of citizens, that have to-night lent their mystic presence to this congregation, vanish." He bade them return to their peaceful rest. " ' For us will dawn no new centennial day.' " On Sunday morning the Eight Eev. Cleveland Coxe, Bishop of New York, preached, closing with the words, " I thank God for the history of this venerable parish, and rejoice that I am here to take part in this centennial." The surpliced choir, numbering thirty, of St. Mary's-on- the-Hill, Buffalo, sang an anthem. In the evening the sermon was given by Archdeacon Dickson. At the morn ing service there were present children and grandchildren of the three incumbents, there being two grandchildren and ten great-grandchildren of the first rector, Eev. E. ST. MAEK'S CHUECH 67 Addison. There were also descendants of Colonel John Butler. An item of interest in connection with the cele bration of the communion was that the combined ages of three of the officiating clergymen reached two hundred and fifty-four years — Archdeacon McMurray, eighty-three years; Canon Arnold, eighty-six years; and Canon Eead, eighty-five years. On the afternoon of Monday a paper written by the Eev. Dr. Scadding, " Church Annals at Niagara," was read, in which was a personal reminiscence of the first minister of St. Mark's. "I myself remember Mr. Addison very well, having, when a boy, heard him officiate in St. James' Church at York. His oval and intellectual countenance and finished style of reading made a strong impression. I particularly remember his walking arrayed in his aca demic gown, bands and clerical hat down King Street to the Quetton St. George mansion. He was chaplain to the House of Assembly." In the evening a social reunion was held in the school- house, the chief feature of which was the presentation of a handsome onyx clock, vases and lamp to the Archdeacon and Mrs. McMurray. The whole proceedings had been carried out very success fully, the weather was delightful and friends met here who had not seen each other for years, many coming from far- distant points, and all rejoiced over this pleasant gathering. During the incumbency of the Eev. J. C. Garrett, now Canon, many costly and beautiful gifts have been given by present and former members, showing the love and generosity of the givers. A beautiful black walnut communion table is in memory of the late John W. Ball, made from a tree grown on the farm of him whose memory is thus commemorated ; " John W. Ball, who vrith faithful devotion filled the office of Church Warden of this parish for twenty-one consecutive years. Born 1813; died 1890. Erected 1909." Another memorial is a handsome pulpit in golden oak to the memory of James and Amelia Kennedy and their deceased children, also George Goff, their son-in- law, erected by Charles Kennedy and his sister, Amelia Goff, July, 1909. A memorial lectern of bronze and brass has come from Detroit, sent in memory of her father from 68 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Mrs. Austin, a daughter of Captain Winnett Lockhart Melville, who formerly worshipped in St. Mark's. The lectern was first placed in Grace Church, Detroit. An angel with outstretched arms supports the reading desk. The church has been further beautified by the placing of two beautiful memorial windows of stained glass in memory of her parents by Mrs. Dorothy Carnathan Baur, also of her husband, the late Charles Baur, of Terre Haute, Ind. The last improvement in the church is the excavation to form a room for the choir, now a surpliced choir. Much of the expense of all the late improvements to the church, school house and rectory has been paid by the efforts of the Women's Guild and the Willing Workers, while the help sent to the Shingwauk Home is due to the Missionary Auxiliary, to which the Misses Beaven have given their time, their inspiration, their money and their prayers. The words of George Macdonald in describing an old church in the Sea Board Parish seem appropriate in con cluding this sketch: " And when I saw it I rejoiced to think that once more I was favored with a church that had a history; that it was one in which the hopes and fears, the cares and con solations, the loves and desires of our forefathers should have been roofed; where the hearts of those through whom our country has become that which it is — from which not merely the life-blood of our bodies, but the life-blood of our spirits has come down to us — ^whose existence and whose efforts have made it possible for us to be that which we are. Therefore, I would rather, when I may, worship in an old church whose very stones are a history of how men strove to realize the infinite, compelling even the powers of nature into the task." CHAPTEE XIT. NE'WSPAPERS. Perhaps by some it will hardly be believed that in our town at least twenty-three newspapers have been printed, " have bad their day and ceased to be." What a contrast to papers of the present day were these early newspapers as exemplified in The Upper Canada Gazette — no edi torials, no personals, no poetry, no stories, no telegraphic despatches, no births, deaths or marriages, no illustrations, few advertisements, but chiefly copies of official documents, while exasperatingly silent on the points of which we desire knowledge — the news of the town. Columns are given of news six or eight weeks old from Constantinople, Peters- burgh, Baltimore, Amsterdam, Frankfort, Valenciennes, Tournay, Eotterdam, Paris, Bergen-op-Zoom (wherever that may be). Even when we come down ,to the times of The Chronicle and The Mail, in one of these is this notice able; but there is generally a striking contrast. The Chronicle was the organ of the dominant party in the town at that date. It had all the official notices, sheriff's sales, reports of county proceedings, etc., dignified in tone, but insufferably dull; but The Mail, of the same date, edited by Davidson, was lively, had amusing letters, sharp criti cisms of those in power, and spicy articles, and was, in fact, a " free lance." When there were three weekly papers in town (1833), there was often a good deal of sparring at one another, but we cannot imagine The Chronicle con descending to notice its opponent. 1. The Upper Canada Gazette or American Oracle seems to have been the official organ of the Government. The first number appeared April 18th, 1793, with Louis Eoy as publisher, and afterwards G. Tiffany; the price was three dollars; in size it was a four-page paper, each page being 141/2 by 9% inches. Dr. Neilson, of Ottawa, when visiting the Historical Building, wrote in the visitors' book : " My grandfather, John Neilson, of Quebec, sent his fore man, Louis Eoy, to start this paper at Newark." 69 70 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA As an example of the verbiage of the day we quote from the proclamation calling Parliament to assemble : " George the Third by the grace of God, of Great Britain, etc. To our beloved and faithful counsellors of our Pro vince of Upper Canada, our faithful knights, citizens and burgesses, of our said Province, for the Assembly at our town of Newark Greeting Com manding and by the tenor of these presents firmly enjoin ing you and every one of you and all others in this behalf interested that on the 22nd day of September next, at our said town of Newark, personally, you and every one of you be and appear to treat, do, act and conclude upon those things which in our said Assembly, by the Common Council of our said Province, by the favor of God, may be ordained. In testimony whereof these our letters we have caused to be made patent and the great seal of our said Province to be hereunto affixed. Witness our Trusty and Well Beloved John Graves Simcoe, Esquire, Lieutenant- Governor and Colonel Commanding our Forces in our said Province, at our Government House, Navy Hall, this tenth day of August in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and ninety-four, and in the thirty-fourth year of our reign. " Wm. Jarvis, Secretary." " '^- ^- ®- An advertisement in large capitals has a martial ring: "To all Loyal and Gallant Subjects. Eecruits wanted for His Majesty's American Eegiment of Queen's Eangers, of which His Excellency Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe is Colonel Commandant. Fifty active young men, gentle men, volunteers, shall receive Ten Guineas Bounty Money each on their approval " In another issue is a list of certificates of land lying at the office of Wm. Jarvis. There occur the familiar names of G. Fields, J. Brown, J. Turney, S. VanEvery, B. Prey, D. Secord, P. Hare, C. Corns, J. Durham, J. Butler, A. Vrooman, J. Young, D. Servos, W. Vanderlip, J. Castle- man, A. Bradt, J. Chisholm, A. Chrysler, J. Comfort, W. B. Sheehan, C. Lambert, etc. NEWSPAPEES 71 In the first issue, April 18th, 1793, appear th% names of gentlemen arriving in the river in H. M. Schooner Onon daga, after an agreeable passage of thirty-six hours: J. Small, Esquire., Clerk to Executive Council; Lieutenant McCan, of the 60th Eegiment; Captain T. Frazer, J. Deni- son, Mr. Jos. Porsyth, Merchant, Mr. P. Smith, Merchant, Mr. L. Crawford, Captain A. McDonnell, — Hatheway. The Upper Canada Gazette was published here till 1798, when it was removed to York. No complete file is known to exist. 3. The Constellation was begun June, 1799, and is known with certainty to have lasted till the end of 1800 ; and was published by Silvester Tiffany at the price of four dollars a year. In the Niagara Mail, August 32nd, 1855, is an article on the Constellation, no doubt written by Mr. Kirby, with the heading, "A Canadian Newspaper Eelic. This was placed in our hands a few days ago by the kindness of F. Tiffany, of Toronto." The article is on the paper of June 21st, 1800. The Constellation is stated to be published weekly by S. and G. Tiffany. " The British news is almost three months, that of New York almost a month, old. In the local news is the account of Miss Ann Cain having been killed by blows and kicks dnfiicted by a fellow servant in the home of Mr. G. Forsyth, Niagara. The editor warns men not to give way to gusts of passion with regard to com- raercial matters. The Province being on the eve of an election, the evils of bribing and treating are referred to, but the electors of the second riding of this county are declared to be an enlightened, independent people, and will think for themselves. " From an advertisement we learn that the whole town plot of Hamilton was for sale — 975 acres well timbered with 150 acres cleared; an excellent stand for business, vrith a wharf and storehouse. For particulars readers are told to apply to the printers of Niagara." This will move the astonishment of the residents of the Ambitious Little City." 3. The Herald was published 1801 to 1802; its subscrip tion price was four dollars. In the Niagara Herald, August 7th, 1803, is the advertisement of the " New Store at the 73 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA house of the French General, between Niagara and Queens ton " ; signed Quetton St. George and Co. 4. The Upper Canada Gazette, or Freeman's Journal, 1809-1810, was published by Joseph Wilcocks. This paper was first printed in York, 1807, but brought to Niagara in 1809. Wilcocks was a member of parliament and fought at Queenston Heights, but joined the enemy and was killed while fighting at Fort Erie. From his knowledge of the neighbourhood he gave information to the enemy in 1813, and thus the loyal inhabitants were distressed and their property seized and they themselves arrested. He formed a force called Canadian Volunteers of those who were disloyal like himself. This is to be distinguished from a force called the Eoyal Canadian Volunteers. The paper was discon tinued at the beginning of the War of 1812. A photograph of the issue of the paper of April 14th, 1810, is in the possession of the Historical Society. 5. The Bee. Of this paper we only know of a copy in July, 1812, and one of October 24th. It was published by James Durand at the price of four dollars. The October number, or rather a reproduction of part of it, was a remarkable find. In strange places are found bits of valuable historical information, as a copy of the Niagara Chronicle, of August 22nd, 1838,, was discovered doing service as a trunk lining; it was removed carefully, but several lines were missing. In two places was found reproduced therein an article from the Niagara Bee of October 34th, 1813, which con tained an account of the Battle of Queenston Heights, differing in some respects from other accounts. An explan atory article by the late lamented Mrs. S. A. Curzon in The 'Weeh, October 33rd, 1891, precedes the extract, and tells that the paper was removed by the hands of two sym pathetic young Canadian ladies. 6. The Spectator; March 17th, 1817. This was pub lished by Amos McKenney, and afterwards Pawling and Ferguson; issued next door to Alex. Eogers' Hotel. The price was four dollars. This paper is dignified by a motto " Nugas egit unusquisque invicem." The motto, perhaps wisely, is omitted in the later years. In the issue for 1818 are long letters from Eobert Gourlay and " The NEWSPAPEES 73 Traveller." Two columns are taken up with rules of schools, notices to teachers, etc. There is an advertise ment of Timothy Street, at St. Davids, and an advertise ment of a pamphlet, " Principles and Proceedings of the Inhabitants of the District of Niagara for addressing His Boyal Highness the Prince Eegent, respecting the claims of sufferers in the War, Lands to Militia Men, and the General Benefit of Upper Canada. Price, one shilling, Halifax; at this office." There is also a long letter from James Durand and a notice of the Agricultural Society of Upper Canada. 7. The Gleaner; December 4th, 1817; published by Andrew Heron, and afterwards by Samuel Heron ; the price is three dollars; it was printed at the foot of King Street, at another time near Market. This veteran paper was published till 1837. Its editor was a noted man, a book seller, and the founder of the Niagara Library in 1800; also its secretary, treasurer and librarian; he was the sec retary and treasurer of St. Andrew's Church from 1794. He must have been a man of means, as he advanced money to both of those institutions when a deficit occurred. The editorials of The Gleaner are eminently sane, moder ate, and always on the side of morality and right thinking. Many correspondents air their views, as in The Spectator, Sir Oliver Mowat, when at St. Andrew's Centennial, 1894, is quoted as saying that The Gleaner was taken in his father's house and diligently read. He wondered if there were any copies of it now to be found. " My first knowledge of Niagara, so far as I can recollect, I got when a very small boy from The Gleaner. I knew nothing of its poli tics. If it had any politics, I am afraid, judging by my experience of the old town since I became a public man, that its politics are not likely to have been as good, accord ing to the judgment of my mature age, as its stories and selections were according to the judgment of my early boy hood. I hope if anyone has a file he will deposit it in the Legislative Library or other safe place for preservation and public references." The newspapers of those days seem to have suffered much from non-payment of subscribers. A notice in Novem ber, 1836, shows that a generous choice was allowed as 74 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA to the method of payment : " Notice to all who feel desir ous that this paper should continue its useful labors to come forward with the needful — pork, beef, mutton, flour, peas, or anything that is fit for food for man or beast thankfully received at this office." Eeady money must have been scarce, as in a collecting trip by the editor as far as Chippawa and De Cew's only four dollars had been received. In an issue of 1830' is stated : " We are greatly averse to dunning of every description." He goes on to speak of the hardship of prepaying postage on newspapers and of the difficulty of collecting payment, ending with the state ment that papers will be stopped of those in arrears, and ends with the significant threat, " Steps will be taken stronger than argument to compel payment." In all that troublous time preceding the Eebellion, while upholding the constitution he acknowledged that there were wrongs that should be redressed. Though a Scot himself he is rather hard on those of that nationality, although he fearlessly defended their church rights when attacked by Bishop Strachan. In January 28th, 1833, he says : " The Gleaner, since its commencement fourteen years ago, has had to record two great excitements in this Province, brought about by two Scotch adventurers, neither of whom had any interest in the prosperity of the Province — Gfour- lay and Mackenzie." In the issue for December, 1833, it is stated that this number completes sixteen years of The Gleaner, the longest period that any paper in the Province has attained. In 1844 The Gleaner printing press and all appurtenances were offered for sale by A. Heron, the nephew of the editor. 8. The Canadian Argus and Niagara Spectator; April 19th, 1830; Vol. I., No. 1; by Wm. B. Peters, Barrister; motto, '''' Salus Populi Suprema Lex " (The safety of the people is the supreme law) . 9. The Canadian; August 11th, 1834; L. G. Beardsley; £1 per annum; next E. M. Chrysler's store; Motto, "Let it be impressed upon your minds, let it be instilled into your children, that the liberty of the press is the palladium of all civil, political and religious rights." — Junius. 10. The Niagara Herald; January, 1838, to 1830; Jas. Gedd for Jas. Crooks; four dollars per year. This publi- NEWSPAPEES 75 cation seems to have judicious selections and copious Par liamentary news. We do not know how long it lasted. 11. The Spirit of the Times; June 17th, 1830 ; W. L. Daly; issued from The Gleaner office; price 17s. 6d. Only one copy is in our possession. 13. The Niagara Literary Miscellany; 1832. This was to be published fortnightly and to consist of anecdotes ancient and modern, to combine instruction with amuse ment, by Mr. Delves, a student of the University of Cam bridge. 13. The News. The prospectus published by The Gleaner, June 23rd, 1832, appears as late as October, and states that the paper was to be on a different plan from any now printed in the Province. It was to be a hebdomadal (just a common weekly) paper. The new venture was not to be filled with the ephemeral trash of the day, but by leaving this out room would be found for valuable articles. It was to be published by Sewell and Gladman. How this bold venture succeeded we have no means of knowing. 14. The Reporter; May 16th, 1833-43; Thos. Sewell, afterwards J. J. Masten; the price was fifteen shillings; motto, "The liberty of the press is indeed essential to the nature of a free state." — Blackstone. The office was in the Market Square and afterwards opposite Harrington's Hotel. At this time there were three weekly papers in town. In the long advertisement published in The Gleaner, in the previous December, The Reporter in politics was to be independent. It mentions that " within the last eight years several papers had been established — The Canadian, the Niagara Herald, The Spirit of the Times, and the Niagara Literary Miscellany. They are all defunct, most of them in their infancy." The Reporter commenced by slashing articles on the steady-going Gleaner, which replied with spirit and dig nity; but on the whole the Reporter was a well-conducted paper. 15. The Arh; a literary paper, 1835; by John McEwen. Called so because it was to consist of selected articles from the best publications of the day. Whether like the ark of 76 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA old it reached solid ground after its weeks and months of trial we know not. 16. The Telegraph; November 16th, 1836; L. C. Kearney. It contradicts the statement that the journal is published for the purpose of supporting Charles Eichard- son. As a prophet The Telegraph will not take high rank, as its editor states in his editorial that the Province has been rescued from all the horrors of civil war by the manly frankness of Sir Francis Bond Head ( ! !). 17. The Chronicle; July, 1837-54; John Simpson, Queen Street; price, three dollars. This has been referred to in the opening lines of this chapter as the official organ. The editor also had a book store and published an almanac for a number of years ; also published the " Porget-Me-Not," and many books were printed at the office of The Chronicle. The editor became member of Parliament and afterwards Deputy Auditor-General. A stanza in a witty description of the notabilities of the town describes him well : " Next comes John Simpson, fair and bland. His acts you all can understand. His aim is high, his effort strong. And seldom he is in the wrong. The Chronicle has its columns full of advertisements, official accounts of meetings, news of every place except Niagara; always dignified, but nothing spicy is found in its pages. In its favor it must be said it never indulges in personalities, but it is very dull. Three papers have had a longer existence than the others in Niagara, The Gleaner, The Chronicle and The Mail. The Chronicle, like The Gleaner, suffered from bad debts, as the issue for February 7th, 1845, shows : "The accounts of this office will forthwith be presented. It is necessary to observe that this ceremony is not a mere matter of form, but in order that we may obtain payment of what is due." 18. The Argus; April, 1844-46; George Hodgkinson ; price, two dollars ; motto, " While we sing ' God Save the King' we'll not forget the people."' — Burns, Queen St. The Argus is full of life and vigor, has letters from cor respondents, short editorials; its literary column is well selected. NEWSPAPEES 77 19. The Mail; March, 1846-1870; price two dollars; editor, first, Alex. Davidson, then Jas. A. Davidson, then Wm. Kirby, Kirby & Walsh, S. C. Smith. Vol. I., No. 1, contains a long editorial giving the political views, aims and objects. The following paragraph might be looked on in the present day as somewhat flowery : " Literature and light reading shall also find a corner in the pages of The Mail, that, while we furnish food for the mind in its more solid and sober moments, those hours of relaxation neces sary to our existence may be soothed by the moral essay or enlivened by the sparkling repartee. And in wander ing through the bowers of literature we shall always strive to cull for our fair readers a bouquet of the gayest and fairest flowers — an amulet of beauty and novelty, deli cate and chaste but by no means a rival to their ovra charms." The Mail, when edited by Mr. Davidson, assisted by his son, Jas. A. Davidson, was marked by wit, vivacity, originality, literary ability, and a soup^on, sometimes, of recklessness. A verse from the lines quoted before give a picture of the editor, probably written by his son : " Next comes the worthy of The Mail, Who does his duty without fail; A modest and a careless air Conceals a power which cries beware." As might be expected when edited by Mr. Kirby, place is given to historical articles, particularly relating to United Empire Loyalists. The literary selections were marked by good taste, but the political utterances were bitter. A noted article appeared in 1849, signed "Britan- nicus," which was spread abroad by request. Considerable discussion ensued as to the authorship, which is referred to in " Sixty Years in Canada," by Weir, and its ability asknowledged as well as its vituperative power. It was written by Mr. Kirby, then a young man, in the excite ment caused by the Eebellion Losses Bill. When Mr. Kirby became Customs Collector, the paper was edited f6r a time by S. C. Smith. 20. The Fountain; March 12th, 1847; Vol. I., No. 2; price, one doUar; a fortnightly temperance paper by Jas. A. Davidson and F. M. Whitelaw ; motto, " Aqua est vitalis 78 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA alcohol perniciosum." As we have only one copy we know not how long it was published. 31. The News; November, 1870; by Jos. T. Kerby; motto, "We observe, we think, we reason. The noblest motive is the public good " ; price, one dollar. This was a small sheet and very short-lived. It is interesting as con taining part of the journal of Colonel Clark, giving valu able glimpses into the early years of the century. 33. The Echo; May 17th, 1884; by William MacDougal Nevrton ; motto, " We will sell to no man ; we will not delay to any man justice or right. (Magna Charta.) Free be our aim, independent our right and the sword that we brandish our own." This was published by a clever young gentleman, but its existence was short. Some of these short-lived papers seem to make up for their brief lives by the length of the motto from Junius, Magna Charta or Blackstone; or, rather, they were so weighted down by these ponderous utterances that they sank overwhelmed. 33. The Times; August, 1894 to present time; price, one dollar; Pickwell Bros., for first years, then Eev. J. S. Clarke, Mrs. Clarke, Jas. Skelton and E. Mosher. For some years there was no paper published in Niagara. The Youngstown News, containing a Niagara column, in part supplied this want. It was called The Niagara County News, and lasted from 1880 to 1890. The newspapers of 1830!-1850 frequently had original verses signed by initials, thus, "Lines on the Death of Julia M. Geale," by " W. M. E." Lines signed " Egmet," Cross Eoads, 1835, in The Reporter, mention " My Mary." Stanzas signed " G. S. E.," evidently a rejected lover, speak of his successful rival : " And never, never must we meet, Howe'er our thoughts rebel; "We have the bitter, had the sweet; Farewell, farewell, farewell." There are also lines by " H. C." on the death by fire of a mother and three children. NEWSPAPEES 79 Besides these papers there were several published in early years in the vicinity : The St. Davids Spectator, 1816, by Eichard Cockerell; price, four dollars a year. The Upper Canada Phoenix, 1818, also by Eichard Cockerell, at Dundas, U.C. The editor would be the Niagara teacher spoken of in such high terms. The Farmer's Journal and Welland Canal Intelligencer, St. Catharines, 1836. CHAPTEE XIII. ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH. Although in this comparatively new land we have no romantic ruins where "each shafted oriel glitters white," no fanes where "through the long dravni aisle and fretted vault the pealing anthem swells the note of praise," it is fitting that we should strive to preserve what we can of our early churches, primitive as they might be. In all ages man has been a worshipping being, in buildings as different as the Temple at Jerusalem, St. Peter's at Eome, Melrose Abbey, or the Mosque of St. Sophia at Constantinople, or as when "the groves were God's first temples." While this church cannot boast of romantic surroundings, still the history of St. Andrew's, with its solid, uncompromis ing structure, with its solemn row of dark pines, will be found interesting, its record touching many points in the history of our country, showing the sterling nature of its people, telling of bright days and dark days; of prosperity and adversity; of lightning stroke and tornado as well as of "confiagration pale ;" of patient and strenuous efforts by appeal to Governor and Queen from this almost the first Presbyterian church in Upper Canada, as previous to this the church at Williamstown under Eev. Jolin Bethune, was built in 1787, and a Presbyterian church was built at Stamford in 1791. It is believed that the first church built in Ontario was the Mohawk Church, near Brantford, in 1786. The old record book of which we are so proud is dated September 33rd, 1794, but in the Archives of Canada for 1891, is a letter dated Newark, 1793, from Hon Eichard Cartwright, the grandfather of of Sir Eichard Cartwright, referring to the state of the Church of England, in Canada, which goes on to say, "The Scots Presbyterians, who are pretty numerous here, and to which sect the most respect able of the inhabitants belong, have built a meeting-house and raised a subscription for a minister of their own, who is shortly expected among them." 80 wo ao 02; ST. ANDEBW'S CHUECH 81 The agreement between the congregation and the Eev. John Dun, the first minister, reads thus : " Know all men by these presents that we, the under signed subscribers, are held and firmly bound, our heirs, etc., in the sum of three hundred pounds of New York cur rency, with house room for three years. The condition of the above obligation is such that the undersigned do jointly and severally obligate themselves to pay to the Eev. John Dun the above sum, his salary as a Presbyterian clergyman, he obligating himself to officiate as such to the Presbyterian congregation of Newark, commencing on the 13th June, 1794. " (Signed) John Young. " Ealfe Clench. "Witness, Samuel Shepherd. " Wm. Dunbar." It is evident from this that the congregation was in existence before the date of this agreement. The earliest date in the old record book is the copy of the agreement, September 33rd, 1794: "We, the undersigned, do severally promise to pay the sums opposite our names for the pur pose of building a Presbyterian church in the town of Newark," there being eighty names affixed with sums varying from eight shillings to £10, while the amounts promised for the support of the clergyman are about the same per year. The whole amount subscribed was £215. John Young, Andrew Heron and A. Gardiner gave £10 each, and Samuel Street £8. A deed was granted for four acres, being lots 157, 158, 183, 184, for a Presbyterian church and schoolhouse, the statement being made that this land cannot be purchased, donated, or otherwise dis posed of on any pretext whatever without the permission of the Executive Council. We find from The Gleaner of 1831 that the present church was erected on the site of the church of 1794. The old leather-covered book with thick yellow paper has this record for September 30th, 1794; "A number of people met this day at Hind's hotel and resolved that ' as religion is the foundation of all societies, and which cannot be so strictly adhered to with out having a place dedicated solely to Divine purposes, that a Presbyterian church should be erected in the town 7 83 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA of Newark, and that subscriptions for that purpose be immediately set on foot as well for the support of a clergy man of the same persuasion.' " The committee consisted of John Young, Four Mile Creek, chairipan ; Ealfe Clench, Andrew Heron, Eobt. Kerr, Alexander Gardiner, William McLellan and Alexander Hemphill. Here follows the bill of the lumber. The size of the timbers would astonish our modern builders (8 by 12 inches and 6 by 9 inches). The size of the building was 40 by 32 feet. While St. Mark's was built of solid stone ten years after, these church pioneers built of less enduring material, and the size of the timbers only helped to feed the flame more fiercely in 1813. It may easily be seen that St. Mark's had an immense advantage with a salary of £200' granted by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, while St. Andrew's, struggling under a load of debt, with many breaks from the confusion and distress caused by the war, could only have been kept alive by the strenuous exertions of its members. We find many of the same names on the records of both churches. Some were baptized in 'St. Mark's in the breaks in the history of St. Andrew's. Many of the residents had pews in both churches. The seats and pews were put in in 1795, a sexton employed in 1796, and pews let for £3 and £5 each, one for £10, among the names of buyers being Colonel But ler, Peter Ball, Daniel Servos and Andrew Heron. The twenty-one seats let amounted to £150. Mr. Dun, at the end of three years, engaged in trade ; but we find his name as a pew-holder. We learn that he was drowned in 1803 by the loss of the barque Lady Washington, sailing from Oswego to Niagara. The Eev. John Young came from Montreal in 1802 as minister, and also taught a school of thirteen scholars — Latin, Greek and mathematics. An interesting circum stance has lately been gleaned in which his name occurs, showing that in spite of denominational differences, acts of kindness and courtesy had been extended by Protestants and Catholics alike. While Mr. Young was minister in Montreal, in 1791, the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered by him to his congregation in the Elcol- let Eoman Catholic Church, the use of which had been PULPIT OF ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH. ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 83 kindly allowed while their own was being built. The Eecollet Fathers politely refused any compensation, but accepted a present of two hogsheads of Spanish wine and a box of candles, and, the manuscript quaintly says, "were quite thankful for the same." In 1802 the thanks of the meeting were given to Mr. John McFarland for a bell which he has been pleased to present to the church. In the accounts are lists of payments for glass, putty, stoves, stovepipes, rum for glaziers, rum for raising (two gal lons), interesting as showing the prices then; rope for bell, — "rope wetted," whatever that may mean I leave for other heads ; covering and foundation for steeple, so that we see the first church had a spire as well as the present; charge for ringing the bell — all this in a peculiar largo hand almost filling the line, and although so large exceed ingly difficult to read. A few baptisms are recorded in the book from 1795- 1803, and again 1809 and 1814, the latter a year after the burning of the church. Eev. Mr. Mars, a visiting clergy man, in 1801, baptized several. Here are notices which show some friction: "Eesolved, that this dhurch is under the direction and control of the majority of the trustees and not subject to the direction of the clergjrman. Eesolved, that the pulpit, being part of the church, is subject to the majority of the trustees." Mr. Heron was the treasurer, and seems to> have advanced money when required, and in 1804 presented an account of £176 8s. 3d., which was inspected and approved. Of this account we shall see more as the years roll on. In 1805 the Eev. John Bums came and preached alter nately here and at Stamford. We find his name at inter vals till 1817. He came from New York State and belonged to the Secession Church of Scotland. He was also the first teacher of the grammar school founded in 1808. The Lundy's Lane Historical Society has published a sermon preached by him in Stamford Church, January, 1814, the text being Prov. 24 :31, and he quotes the words of Nehemiah to the Israelites, which were equally appro priate to Canadians in the presence of an armed and numerous enemy. " Be not ye afraid of them : remember the Lord, which is great and terrible, and fight for your 84 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA brethren, your sons, and your daughters, your wives, and your houses." And they did remember when, a few months after, on that sultry day of July, the farmers left their wheat-fields to fight till midnight, hand to hand, for the possession of the hill close to the old church — the most closely contested and most sanguinary of any battle of that war ; and for their bravery on that field four British regiments — the King's 8th, the Eoyal Scots, the 41st and the 89th, bear the word "Niagara" on their colors. During the war Mr Heron, the secretary and treasurer, and several other members of the church, were sent pris oners to Greenbush after the capture of Niagara, May 87th, 1813, and in September, we find the church w^as set on fire by the enemy some months before the town was burned. Different efforts were made to obtain a minister of the Established Church of Scotland in 1806, and the expenses of the Eev. Jas. McLean, of Scotland, were paid. He preached during June, July and August, the church to be open to the Eev. John Burns when it did not interfere with any other engagement of the trustees. From 1812 to 1816 there are no records. No doubt the war scattered the people and broke up the congrega tion. In 1818 we read of a meeting in the schoolhouse, now the sexton's house, and of a collection made to repair the windows and the building. Here services were held till 1831. In 1819 there was a petition to the Earl of Dal- housie for money to build a church to replace that destroyed in consequence of being occupied by His Majesty's army during the late war. This reminds us that somewhere it was stated that compensation was refused because "the spire of the church was used for taking observations of the enemy." In 1820 there is a letter asking for the services of the Eev. Thomas Creen, who had preached for them a few weeks and with whom they were pleased. In 1831, at a meeting in the school- house, they resolved to put themselves under the Presby- terv, and six elders were chosen — Andrew Heron, W. D. Miller, John Crooks, John Wagstaff, John Grier and John MunrO'. For several years we have no record of any settled minis ter, but to St. Andrew's Church belongs the honor of hav- ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 85 ing had the first Sunday School in the town. The super intendent was Mr. John Crooks, and lately there was found in a crevice of the wall of Lake Lodge, the former resi dence of Eev. E. Addison, the names of the first class. Children of different denominations belonged, as also the teachers, for Eev. Thomas Creen, who afterwards became rector of St. Mark's, taught. Mr. Crooks often conducted Divine worship at 3.30 directly after Sunday school. Among the teachers were Mrs. and Dr. Miller, Miss Young, Mr. Heron and his daughters. A curious reminis cence was given of another superintendent. Dr. Miller, who had the children commit to memory a sort of acrostic of the names of Christ, a text for each letter of the alphabet, and his daughter, Mrs. Comer, an old lady of eighty-four years, recited this to me in her sweet quavering voice. At the meeting of the church people in 1819, presided over by Eev. Charles James Cook, several resolutions were passed: "The committee, notwithstanding the magnitude of their own personal and individual losses, sincerely regret that they have so long neglected the first and greatest and most important of all duties, the raising again the house and dwelling-place of their God, fully assured that they can expect but little prosperity or happiness in their own while the habitation of heaven remains trodden under feet." "That the meeting feels it to be their duty to exert their utmost ability in supplying money to erect again the temple of holiness and to build a house again for Him who in ages past was the Lord God of Israel, but whom now, with mingled emotions of gratitude and delight, they are enabled to name the Lord God of Niagara, the Lord God of the Canadas, the Lord God of the Chris tian World." The last two lines are printed in capital letters. While the sentiment expressed is proper, a less magniloquent style and less tautology might improve the resolutions. A building committee was formed for the immediate erection of a church, but probably from delay in obtaining compensation ten years elapsed ere this was done, £400 being finally granted in 1824, but paid in instalments at long intervals. The account of £176 was presented, with interest for twenty years, making the amount £317 — nearly the whole sum allowed. This seems 86 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA not to have been settled till 1833, when, in the small, clear writing of W. D. Miller, interest is allowed for nine years four and two-thirds months, till the church was burned, the commissioners not allowing interest after that. The Eev. Thomas Fraser came in 1827 for two years, and in 1829 a call was sent to the Presbytery of Glasgow, to the Eev. Eobert McGill, who came in October in the steamboat Canada from Kingston, accompanied by the Eev. John Machar. Many of the documents copied in the record book may be said to be a part of the history of Canada, as letters bearing on the vexed question of the Clergy Eeserves, the status of Presbyterian ministers, the share of money allotted to ministers of the Church of Scotland, petitions to the Queen and to the Govemor^General, all showing the deter mination of this people to have their rights, not by violence, but by strictly constitutional- means. A curt letter of Dr. McGill to the Quarter Sessions with regard to the right to perform the marriage ceremony shows the feeling of a dignified minister of the Established Church of Scot land at finding permission to be necessary: "Sir, — I under stand it to be required by a law of the Province that a minister in connection with the Established Church of Scotland must yet submit to request of the General Quar ter Sessions authority to celebrate marriage, even among members of his own congregation. Although I regard this law as an infringement of those rights secured to the Established Church of Scotland by Acts of the Imperial Parliament of Great Britain, it seems expedient that I should conform to it until that church to which I belong shall procure its abrogation as an illegal violation of its rights. I request, therefore, that you will give notice to all concerned that I intend," etc. Next comes the petition to Sir John Colborne, complaining of their rights being in fringed by the establishment of a rectory, which is " incom patible with privileges granted by the Act of Union between England and Scotland, privileges belonging in alienably in a British colony to subjects of Scotland as well as of England." To this petition one hundred and twenty- eight names are signed. ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 87 In 1830 subscriptions were started for a new church, the congregation having worshipped for seventeen years in the schoolhouse; one old resident says part of the time the services were held in old Navy Hall. The whole sum sub scribed was £760; the church was to seat six hundred. Among the names of those giving from £10 to £50, are Eobert Dickson, W. H. Dickson, Lewis Clement, Andrew Heron, Thomas Creen, Edward C. Campbell, Eobert Ham ilton, Daniel McDougall, Eobert Melville, James Crooks, .John Claus, John Eogers and John Wagstaff. The name St. Andrew's seems to appear now for the first time, and to this period belong the communion tokens bearing this inscription, "St. Andrew's Church, 1831; E. McGill, U.C," which are now in demand by numismatists. In 1831 was also taken the subscription for sacramental silver vessels, which cost £20. The salary of the clergyman was to be £175 with the Government allowance and the promise of a manse. An acre of land was obtained from the Government in 1831 for this. Next in the old record-book is the plan of the church, the incorporation and items on the sale of seats. Prom an old Gleaner lately found we have a description of laying the foundation-stone of the church : " On May 31st, 1831, the foundation-stone of the Presbyterian church was laid on the same spot on which the former church stood, which the Americans burnt during the war. A large assemblage, including the 79th Highlanders, was present, at four o'clock, and national music was played. A sealed bottle containing a scroll of parchment written as follows : ' The foundation-stone of St. Andrew's Church (at Nia gara, in the District of Niagara, the Province of Upper Canada), in communion with the Established Church of Scotland, was laid 31st day of May in the year of our Lord 1831, in the first year of the reign of His Majesty King William 4th of United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, etc.. Sir John Colborne, Lieut.-Governor of the Province.' Signed by the minister, elders, trustees of land in trust for the congregation, members of the congre gation, contractors for the building of the church, also the officers commanding and the sergeants of detachment of 79th Highlanders or Cameronian Highlanders. Various 88 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA foreign coins, British copper, silver, gold, coinage of George 3rd and George 4th, Gleaner newspaper, a Scotch news paper (Ayr Advertiser) ." The dedicatory prayer of the Eev. E. McGill is given in full : " Almighty and Eternal Creator of heaven and earth, be pleased to prosper by Thy gracious providence this under taking, and enable us happily to complete what we have piously begun. Preserve this building from fire, flood, storms, and all accidents, that it may be a sanctuary to Thy sincere worshippers to remote times. May those by whose Christian liberality it is erected long enjoy within its walls the blessings of a pure gospel faithfully administered, and bequeath it to their posterity, an evidence of their own true piety and of their concern for the real and immortal wel fare of their children and their country. And may a seed arise up to serve and praise Thee when we are joined to our Father in the temple above. Now unto the King Eternal, Immortal and Invisible, the only true God, the Supreme Architect and Euler of heaven and earth, be honor and glory forever. Amen." The following address was made by the pastor ; " Ladies and gentlemen, — ^We shall regard this as a memorable and auspicious day from which we date the erection of a church which shall, I trust, not only be a blessing to ourselves, but to those who shall come after us For myself, ladies and gentlemen, may I be permitted to say that, much as we are interested in the present work, we are more deeply concerned in the great design of which this building is only one of the external means of promoting — ^the leading men to the chief Corner-stone laid in Zion, elect and precious, upon which all true Christians are built, a spiritual house, an holy priesthood, to offer up spiritual sacrifices accept able to God by Christ Jesus. . . . May it be our task and our pleasure to complete what we have now begun. And when time, at some period far remote, shall have crumbled the structure we are about to erect, and when other hands shall raise from this stone the memorials of our day which we have now deposited in it, I trust it will only be to erect a more magnificent and durable structure to be the house of prayer to a numerous population more distinguished for wisdom and zeal and piety than we are. ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 89 who shall then be sleeping in the dust — perhaps unknown, but assuredly not unrewarded." In the pastorate of Doctor McGill occurred the Disrup tion in Scotland, when, out of sympathy with their brethren there, although there was no similar reason in Canada, many left the Established Church and formed what was called the Free Church. In the old record-book there is no reference to the loss sustained in St. Andrew's, but in the session book are the names of several families whose names are dropped from the roll. In 1838 we have a glimpse of the Eebellion, as the annual meeting was unavoidably deferred " on account of the disturbed state of the country from the late insurrec tionary movement and piratical invasion from the frontiers of the United States, the members being engaged in mili tary duty." In the same year comes the appointment of John Eogers as treasurer, which position he honorably held till his death in 1883, forty-six years. It is worthy of notice that St. Andrew's has had the benefit of three faith ful and efficient officers, whose term of office, if taken continuously, reaches one hundred and twenty years, viz., Andrew Heron, thirty-two years; W. D. Miller, forty-two years, and John Eogers, forty-six years; in later times George Dawson was elder for forty-three years; Eobert Ball, forty-three years as elder and Sunday School superin tendent (this last at Virgil), and James McFarland, forty- four years, making another period of one hundred and thirty years, or six office-holders with a period of two hun dred and fifty years. It may be questioned if any other church can produce such a record. It may also be men tioned that a present teacher in the Sunday School has held the position for over forty years. A petition to the Queen in 1842 from St. Andrew's com plains that the Presbyterians had not obtained their share in the settlement of the Clergy Eeserves in 1840, by the mistakes in the census of 1839. There were then in the congregation one hundred and forty-two families ; the num ber is given in each family, making six hundred and twenty- eight altogether. This was in the palmy days of Niagara, when the church was filled above and below during ship building, and when British troops were stationed here, and 90 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Niagara was the county tovm for three counties. Only one pew and two half pews were not taken. To this period belongs the formation of the library of St. Andrew's Church, 1833. A catalogue shows that there were one thousand books. Belonging to the days of Doctor McGill is a sermon, " The Love of Country," preached at the time of the Eebel lion, and printed in pamphlet form; also a book of devo tion, printed for the use of his people ; and later a book of sermons, printed in Montreal; the two first mentioned were printed in Niagara. The stately periods and classical language form a contrast to many present-day sermons. A few still living remember the stately, commanding pres ence, the rich, full voice, the dignified bearing, of this distinguished divine. A magazine. The Christian Exam- ¦ iner, was published here for many years, of which he was the editor. Doctor McGill removed to Montreal in 1845. It is singular that while Montreal gave a minister to Niagara in 1803 — Eev. John Young — that the chief city of Canada should be indebted to Niagara for an able preacher gracing the pulpit of St. Paul's for many years. In this period a legacy of £750 was left by John Young " for the perpetual maintenance of divine ordinances in this church," and with this sum the present manse, built by Doctor McGill, was bought from him by the congrega tion. The handsome pulpit was also the gift of Mr. Young. In the vestibule is a mural tablet, " Sacred to the memory of John Young, Esq., long a merchant of Niagara. Eeturn- ing home in pain and infirmity, he was drowned in Lake Ontario, where his body rests awaiting the hour when the sea shall give np its dead. In his last illness, concerned for the welfare of coming generations, he ordained a bequest for the perpetual maintenance of divine ordinances in this church. He met death July 39th, 1840; aged 73. ' Pray for the peace of Jerusalem.' ' Because of the house of the Lord our God I will seek thy good.' " The Eev. John Cruikshank was inducted October, 1845, but going on a visit to Scotland for his health he accepted a charge in Banffshire. Before coming to Niagara he had been tutor to Sir Oliver Mowat, who visited him in Scot land, where he was still preaching at the age of eighty-four. ST. ANDEBW'S CHUECH 91 A call was given to Eev. J. B. Mowat, M.A., in 1849. Of him it may be said that he loved his people and his people loved and revered their pastor. To his faithful preaching many date the first promptings to the higher life. Besides his own congregation, he preached, at one time, to the colored people, and at another he drove to Queenston to preach in the old church. In 1853 was purchased a bell. Having enjoyed the use of one for nine years, 1804 to 1813, they were without one for forty years, and now, after sixty years, the same deep, full, rich note is calling — calling to the house of prayer. In 1854 a glebe was purchased with £150 offered by the Clergy Eeserve Commissioners ; the people afterwards raised £50 to complete the purchase. In this period the church twice sustained serious injury by lightning-stroke and tornado, necessitating large sums to be raised for repairs. It is one of the strange coincidences of life that the daughter of the manse. Miss McGill, bom there, should return as the pastor's wife, and that there her life should close after one short year of married life. Her husband, the late Eev. J. B. Mowat, accepted the position of Profes sor of Oriental Languages in Queen's University, which he held for over forty years. The Eev. Charles Campbell, a graduate of Glasgow and Edinburgh, came in 1858. During the twenty years' pas torate of this divine, who preached such scholarly sermons, and whose kind heart constantly prompted him to help the poor and those in trouble, occurred the union of the two great Presbyterian bodies in 1875. Mr. Campbell said, " This is not a question for us to settle now ; to all intents and purposes it is a union long since consummated, for we have been united and need no ordinance of union." Like his predecessors, Mr. Campbell took a deep interest in education, and was for many years chairman of the public school as well as the high school board. In this pastorate occurs the introduction of an organ as a help in the musical services. Among the faithful elders were James Lockhart, John McFarland, Andrew Martin, Eobert Dawson and Thomas P. Blain. In the minutes in stately periods the decease of Mr. W. D. Miller is recorded thus : " Who for the long period of half a century had been a most valuable 93 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA member, taking on all occasions a deep interest and acting a faithful part in the temporal and spiritual affairs of the church, being one of that little company of excellent Chris tian men (himself the last survivor) that during a length ened probation of trial and suffering, arising chiefly from the want of regular ministerial services, managed and kept together the Presbyterian congregation of Niagara when in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine their laudable efforts were at last rewarded by the Church of Scotland's ordaining and inducting a minis ter to the pastorate ; the deceased the following year on the completion of the ecclesiastical organization of the congre gation to church ordinances was ordained to the eldership, which office he worthily and actively filled to the day he rested from his labors." When the Eev. Charles Campbell resigned and removed to Toronto, the Eev. Wm. Cleland was called by the con gregation. He had received a sound education in Belfast College, and wrote a history of Presbyterianism in Ireland. In connection with the purchase of the organ in this incumbency, it may be mentioned that frequent references are made to the psalmody, precentor and choir; sometimes a salary is given and again thanks recorded to those who gave their help gratuitously in conducting the singing. Thus at one time Mr. Doig was precentor, with salary, then thanks are given to Mr. Harkness for instruct ing the choir. Two sacred concerts in the church were conducted by Mr. Harkness, an enthusiast in music. Again thanks are given to Mr. Joseph Barr, Mr. James Car nochan, Mr. Smither and Mr. William P. Blain, each of them having led the singing of the congregation. The Eev. J. W. Bell, M.A., a graduate of Knox College, became in 1884 the next pastor, whose pure gospel ser mons are not forgotten. In this pastorate was formed the Ladies' Aid Society; also, by the zeal of Mrs. Bell, the Auxiliary of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society ; and the Young People's Christian Union, formed by Miss Blake and kept alive by her untiring zeal, still exists and has done much good work, conducted now by Miss G. Blake. The lamented death of Mr. John Eogers, for almost fifty years the secretary and treasurer of the church, ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 93 occurred just previously. For three-quarters of a century attending St. Andrew's, sitting first in the old church as a boy, then in the old meeting-house, and then for fifty years in the same pew, his gentle, amiable spirit, serene face and dignity of manner are still remembered. Another loss was sustained in the death of Mr. E. N. Ball, long an elder in the Canada Presbyterian Church, and after wards in St. Andrew's. He did noble work as Sabbath school teacher and superintendent at Virgil for forty years. Mr. Bell was succeeded in 1889 by Eev. N. Smith, during whose incumbency the church was thoroughly renovated. In this connection the name of Mrs. Milloy deserves special mention. In this pastorate the congregation and the Sun day school increased in numbers. The name of Mr. P. B. Curtis should be remembered as Sunday school superin tendent. Mr. Smith remained pastor for over fourteen years, and a very important event occurred, viz., the cele bration of the centenary of the congregation. At the annual meeting, 1894, this was decided on. The first committee consisted of Mr. James McFarland, Mr. John Carnochan, and Miss Carnochan as secretary, and added to the number Messrs. Campbell, Niven, Mclntyre, Acton and Seymour. The celebration was on the 18th, 19th and 20th of August, and as a Toronto newspaper stated, was really a national event. Invitations had been sent abroad to all former members whose addresses could be found, and these came from far and near. The attendance was large, the programme was carried out almost to the letter, the weather was propitious — ^everything united for the suc cess of the celebration. The old church, looking quaint and old-fashioned with its Doric pillars, graceful steeple, lofty, handsome pulpit, and square family pews, was beautifully decorated with flowers. Among those present were Sir Oliver Mowat, with his brother, the Eev. J. B. Mowat; Hon. Beverley Eobinson, Eev. Charles Campbell, Eev. J. W. Bell, Eev. W. Gregg, D.D., Eev. J. Young, Eev. J. C. Gar rett, Eev. Canon Arnold, Eev. J. W. Orme, Miss Eye and Miss Creen. Among former attendants may be mentioned Hon. J. G. Currie, St. Catharines ; A. E. Christie, Toronto ; Mrs. Hamilton, daughter of Mr. John Crooks ; Miss Camp- 94 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA bell, grand-daughter of Eev. John Burns ; Mrs. Colquhoun, daughter of a former treasurer, Wm. Clarke; Mrs. Wilson, daughter of the late W. D. Miller ; the Misses Cleland and Bell, daughters of former pastors ; and Mr. Herbert Mowat, son of Prof. Mowat. It was generally regretted that Mrs. Urquhart, daughter of Dr. McGill, was unable to be pres ent. The ceremony of unveiling the commemorative tablet was performed by Eev. Prof. Mowat, the inscription being : " 1794—1894." " In grateful commemoration of the one hundredth anni versary of the organization of this congregation, this tablet is erected by the members of St. Andrew's Church, Niagara. The first building, begun in October, 1794, and erected on this spot, was burnt in the War of 1812-14. The con gregation met in St. Andrew's schoolroom, on the north corner of this block, for some years. The present church was built in 1831. The ministers have been: Eev. John Dun, Eev. J<^hn Young, Eev. John Burns, Eev. Thomas Fraser, Eev. Eobert McGill, D.D., Eev. Charles Campbell, Eev. William Cleland, Eev. J. W. Bell, M.A., and the present pastor, Eev. N. Smith." After this ceremony an historical paper, prepared by the present writer, was read by Eev. J. W. Bell, brief reminiscent addresses were given by former pastors, and the address of the evening was given by Sir Oliver Mowat. It was no surprise that the address was interesting, but it was a surprise that the Premier could supply so many links in the history of the congregation. The pastor, in introducing him, said Sir Oliver had been Premier the longest continuous term of years known in the British Empire. The Premier, among other reminiscences, said; " My first knowledge of Niagara, so far as I can recollect, I got when a small boy from the Niagara Gleaner. One of the ministers of Niagara was the father of my friend and first partner in business, Mr. Eobert E. Burns, born in Niagara, 1805. An early teacher of Niagara, Dr. John Whitelaw, I personally knew in my boyhood, a very learned man. I attended his lectures in chemistry. Dr. McGill I heard preach when I was ten years old, and I recollect REV. R. McGILL, D.D. ST. ANDEEW'S CHUECH 95 my boyish admiration for him. Dr. Cruikshank, your next minister, was my teacher for some time in Kingston, in which grammar school girls were also admitted — the first grammar school in the country in which co-education was tried." iSeated beside Sir Oliver was the Hon. Beverley Eobin son, who had not expected to be present, but explained that going to Queenston that morning to see the condition of Brock's monument, he had induced his friend Sir Oliver to go with him, and now, to show his sympathy, accom panied his friend to the church. He recalled the fact that his father. Chief Justice Eobinson, had fought with Brock at the Battle of Queenston Heights. The service on Sunday morning was conducted entirely by Prof. Mowat, wearing the gown as in days of old; ascending the lofty pulpit unused for years, he preached a pure gospel sermon, simple and yet profound. In the evening Dr. Gregg, of Knox College, gave a sketch of Presbyterianism in Canada. Madame Gramm, of New York, sang a solo, — "Calvary." On Monday afternoon a congregational reunion was held in the open air in front of the church, and in the evening Dr. Laing, of Dundas, read a paper, followed by a delightful reminiscent address from Eev. William Ball, sparkling with wit and pathos. Addresses were given by resident clergy. The people of St. Andrew's felt thankful to Almighty God that they had been permitted to hold this commemor ative service and offer their thanksgivings for so many blessings during the course of the century. Another celebration was held in 1911— the one hundred and seventeenth anniversary of the first church and the eightieth of the present church, during the pastorate of the Eev. A. P. MacGregor, B.A., a profound and original thinker, as well as a student whose eloquent and some times fiery sermons rouse to action. Eev. D. E. Fletcher, of Hamilton, gave the chief address. A paper was read by the present writer, in which it was mentioned that the Christian Endeavor Society had last year celebrated their twenty-fifth anniversary, had purchased a new organ, and that by the exertions of the choir of the church, this year 96 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA a new Esty organ had been placed in the church. It was also mentioned that from these walls had gone forth four to proclaim the tidings of the cross — Eev. John Barr, Eev. David Niven, Eev. Alexander Dawson and Eev. William Ball, and one, a former president of the Christian Endeavor, Miss Minnie Smith, now Mrs. Eobertson, is at the present time a missionary in China, and her brother, a son of the manse, is now preparing for the ministry. Of the thirteen pastors during the hundred and seventeen years whose nationality is known, seven have belonged to Scotland, one to England, one to Ireland, and four to our loved Ontario. In the north outside wall of the church a small tablet has the words, "The Ministers' Burying- Ground." It is remarkable that in all those years no minister of the church died here, so that, but for an infant of a day, this square is unoccupied. They rest in far dif ferent graves — one in the depths of Lake Ontario, one in Montreal, one in Scotland, one in Kingston, another in Toronto, and one of the earliest in Stamford. The solemn pines bounding the graveyard sing a requiem over the city of the dead of different lands and colors. The closing words of the centennial volume, those of George MacDonald, may be quoted ; " I delighted to think that even by the temples made by hands, outlasting these bodies of ours, we were in a sense united to those who in them had before us lifted up prayerful hands without wrath or doubting. And I thought how many witnesses to the truth had sat in these pews. I honored the place, I rejoiced in its history. It soothed me and turned me to a holy mood. Therefore, I would far rather, when I may, worship in an old church." CHAPTEE XIV. STREETS AND MAPS OF THE TOWN. The town was laid out in 1791 by D. W. Smith, Deputy .Surveyor-General — laid out with mathematical regularity and wide streets, but some wider than others. The first sur vey extended only to King Street, eight hundred yards front to the river; but permission was given to extend it in the direction of Navy Hall. There are several maps, one of 1791 showing the property of D. W. Smith. The four acres now called the Market Square, and his fine house on it, was offered by him for a fixed price for a grammar school, but rejected because it was just in the range of guns from Fort Niagara. In 1816 the boundaries were extended, and in 1822, a map was made by Captain Vava sour, E.E., taking in the common to Fort George, the additional lots again commencing at No. 1, and when the dock was surveyed the lots also began at No. 1. In the letter of John Small, May 11th, 1795, a list is given of lots granted in 1794, and a fuller one in 1795. The numbers are from 1 to 413, and are the same as those now, and agree with a map used by a noted lawyer of the town, C. L. Hall, about 1830. There were nine squares of four acres reserved, and half an acre for jail and courthouse. At Mississauga Point there is a military reserve of 13 chains 60 links from the river, south 36° 45', west from thence to the river parallel with the first line. After the town was burnt there was a proposal to leave the old site. There is a letter to General Drummond recommending this, and that Fort George be abandoned and Fort Mississauga be the only fort; but the inhabi tants would not agree to change the site of the town. In the list of 1794, the statement is made in the letter of J. Small that many of the lots are forfeited. In that of 1795, there are one hundred and fifty names. Of these the only lot known to be in possession of a 'descendant is lot 35, James Muirhead, still owned by Mr. Eichards, Pittsburgh. 8 97 98 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA The name of Wm. Mollyneux is given, mentioned in the tovm records as constable. The only names known to us now in the memory of the townspeople as owning their lots are D. Cassady, 54, 57; J. Fitzgerald, C. Field, 53, where the Masons met; J. Crooks, 63; D. W. Smith, 104; Ealfe Clench, 114; H. Waters, 325; and George Porsyth. Lot 33 is left vacant, the site of the first jail. The lots 157, 158, 183, and 184 are marked " Presbyterian Church," that built in 1794, and on the same spot stands St. AndrevT's, built in 1831, to replace that burnt in the War of 1813. The survey of Passmore, in 1853, was made to decide on the boundaries of the town. It quotes 38 George III. — " in 1798, the town and township of Newark, generally called West Niagara, to be called the town and township of Niagara." Then 56 George III., of 1816, is quoted, which extends the limits of the town to Crookston and McLellan's, and Wm. Dickson's, thus taking in the mili tary reserve, oak bush and to the river, then to Mississauga Point. Other subsequent Acts are referred to. Then 13 Victoria, 1849, gives the boundaries of the town : " Mis sissauga Point, westerljr along Lake Ontario to Crookston, thence to Black Swamp Eoad, thence along eastern limit of lands of late Thomas Butler and Garrett Slingerland to north-west angle of John Eccleston, thence easterly to where the lands of Wm. Dickson and late Martin Mc Lellan come in contact, thence east along northern boun dary of lands of said M. McLellan to Niagara Eiver, thence northerly down said river to place of beginning." The point of dispute which this survey was to settle was to find the exact point at which the lands of William Dick son and Martin McLellan met. A map of 1803, by Gother Mann, shows lots for mer chants and traders in King's rescued lands, the river. Port George, Navy Hall — four buildings there — King's wharf, storehouse, etc., and the lots of Crooks, Thompson and Welsh, in one block, and in another those of A. Heron, John Grier and W. Wallace. The last map of the town is that from the survey of Alexander Niven, P.L.S., in 1910. Trouble had arisen from the fact that in laying down cement walks it was STEEETS AND MAPS 99 found that several fences, porches, etc., encroached on the streets. One of these was taken down by orders of the town council, and the litigation that ensued caused council to agree to have a new survey made, and this again was the cause of much heartburning. The map of 1817, made by H. H. Wilson, E.E., is very interesting, as it shows what buildings or parts of build ings, houses or barns were to be seen then. These would either be new houses, erected in 1816 or 1817, or else frag ments left. An interesting thing about this map is that the buildings at Butler's Barracks are just as they appear now. There are fourteen, and to the south the hospital, which was first the Indian Council House, as shown on a map of 1823, and mentioned by name in that of 1799. Farther on in the map of 1817 is the Commandant's house, which some of us remember as the Colonel's house, burned down some years ago, as was the hospital. It is often wondered why the same street has different names, but when it is remembered that King Street was the boundary of the tovm, this is explained, depending on being north or south. It is often interesting to know how and why the names were given. In some cases it is quite easy, in others more difficult. Thus for King and Queen there is no doubt — these in a monarchical country are quite in keeping. Prideaux and Johnson are easily explained — Prideaux, the general who was killed in con ducting the siege of Fort Niagara; Johnson, from Sir William Johnson, who successfully carried on the siege. Front 'Street, also, is suitably named. Gage Street is named from General Gage, Governor of Montreal in 1760. The remaining streets west of Gage are simply Centre, William, Mary, John and Anne, whether from William III. and his Queen Mary and her sister Anne, or from some m'agnate in the town, or simply from no reason, a dearth of ideas. John, though so common a name, has never been a popular name for a king of England. The continuation of the streets south of King, given after the Battle of Waterloo, have all, or nearly all, a martial sound. Thus the continuation of Queen is Picton, from the heroic general who fell at the battle at the close 100 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA of that titanic struggle, when Britain was even more than of late in a state of splendid isolation ; the continuation of Johnson Street is Platoff, from the Eussian general who defeated Napoleon, while Prideaux receives the name of the poet Byron, then in the heyday of his fame ; and Gage becomes Castlereagh, from the British statesman whose fate was so tragic. One street, Davy, is named from a scientist. Sir Humphrey Davy, who had in 1819 invented the safety lamp. Next comes Wellington Street, from the Iron Duke; Alava, from a Spanish general who served on the staff of Wellington; next. Nelson, the great sea- admiral, of whom Tennyson says, " Mighty seaman, this is he, was great by land as thou by sea," in his grand ode to Wellington. It is fitting that next to Nelson Street comes Collingwood, who assumed the command after the death of Nelson. Another military commander gives the name to the next street, Blucher, showing how men's minds at that time were full of the great contest carried on against such odds by Britain. Why the name Lichen was given to the next street we know not, except that here one of the numerous springs found in the bank causes moss and lichen to abound. On one map another name is given Trivene. The street north of King is Eegent, probably from the Prince Eegent, although another reason has been given, namely, that a tailor from Eegent Street, London, estab lished himself with this sign, and gradually the name was adopted. But why Victoria was so called seems strange, as Victoria was not then born ; but the explanation is that at first these streets were called First, Second, Third, Fourth, etc., and on the birth of Princess Victoria the name was given. The next, Gate Street, is as yet an unsolved mys tery, except that possibly it led to a gate into the engin eers' quarters or some buildings near. Simcoe deserves that his name should be remembered, and so the next street is thus named; while Mississauga is the only street with an Indian name, also given to the fort built in 1814 at Mississauga Point, where the lighthouse stood from 1803 to 1814. Our street namers seem to have exhausted their ideas, as the remaining streets are simply called Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, Ninth and Tenth. HOUSE OF GEORGE FIELD, BUILT 1802. T^' i' ¦ ^^i*;: HOUSE OF JAS. MCFARLAND, BUILT 1800. STEEETS AND MAPS 101 The land given to the " Harbour and Dock Company " in 1831 was surveyed and the streets received names from the officials connected with the company. Delatre is from Colonel Delatre, whose tragic death on the Toronto steamer is recorded in the papers of 1848. His house is still called Delatre Lodge, at the corner of Victoria and Front. Delatre Street is often called Spring Street, the reason being obvi ous. Lockhart Street is from the secretary of the com pany, James Lockhart, who was also a merchant, banker and .^ihipowner; Melville Street, from Captain Melville, one of the chief projectors, and Ball Street, from George Ball, a large shareholder and one of the earliest settlers in Niagara, coming in 1784. Front Street, south of King Street, is named from neither a military nor naval hero, nor yet from a royal personage or great statesman, but from a writer on political economy and taxation, in 1817, David Eicardo. When Simcoe came the country was divided into nine teen counties, all named from counties in England, and the townships, towns and villages were named from place,-; in these counties in the mother country. Thus we have Newark, Grantham, Stamford, Grimsby, Louth and Gains borough ; but other names have been given for local reasons. Thus Queenston was named from the Queen's Eangers hutted there, some say, but more probably from the Queen, as the name was often written Queen's Town. What is now Virgil was Lawrenceville, from George Lawrence, a Methodist class-leader living there; at one time also Four Mile Creek and Cross Eoads. Druinmondville was so called from the general who fought such a brave fight there on July 35th, 1814; St. Catharines, from Catharine Hamilton, the wife of Hon. Eobert Hamilton, who ovmed five hundred acres there, and who gave land for the first church in 1809. Homer was called " The Ten," from the Creek; while the Twelve Mile Creek was called Shipman's Corners, from Paul Shipman, who had a tavern there, and whose name also appears in St. Paul's Street. Another city owes its name to the Hamilton family, ,as George Hamilton and his brother Peter Hunter Hamilton settled there and owned much land. Merritton takes its name from Hon. William Hamilton Merritt, the projector of the 102 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Welland Canal, Allanburg from Sir Allan MacNab, and Port Eobinson from John Beverley Eobinson. Chippawa and Niagara are the only places which have retained Indian names. St. David's was named from Major David Secord ; Beamsville from Jacob Beam, one of the earliest settlers, and who gave the land for the Baptist church; Smith- ville, from Smith Griffin, the first merchant there, coming in 1787. Dundas was named from Lord Dundas, the Sec retary of State in Simcoe's time ; Port Colborne, from the stern military governor during the Eebellion; Stamford was first called Mount Dorchester, from Lord Dorchester; sometimes Township No. 2, as Niagara was Township No. 1. From all this it may be seen there is something in a name. Map op 1817, by H. H. Wilson, E.E. This map is interesting to us as showing what houses or parts of houses were to be seen. Some had been built up, and some remains of houses or barns are seen. On Front Street, on the square of four acres opposite the hotel grounds, there is a house at the corner of Front and King Streets. Then there are two barns or small houses opposite Miss Alma's, and another on Eegent Street about where Mr. Michael Green's house stands. These would be the property of Mr. McKee. On the next square, still opposite the hotel on Front Street, where Howard's hotel was, now Mrs. Waters', there is a rounded corner, and there is a house about where Miss Winter- bottom's cottage now is. On the next square on Victoria Street, there is a house at the corner of Mr. Winthrop's lot, about where Eoddy's Hotel was. Farther on in the next square there is a house, but no road to the next street. Fro'm Prideaux Street to Queen Street, on King Street, three houses are marked about where are those of Mrs. Thair and Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Eandall's store. One of these was probably the blockhouse, which we are told was used for a school. On Prideaux Street are houses where Miss McKee's cottage and Miss Alma's house' stand now; the latter was the Stewart house. In the far corner on Queen Street is a house where now is Mr. Healey's STEEETS AND MAPS 103 store. In the next square, on Prideaux Street, are two houses about where is Mr. Armstrong's house, formerly Dobie's; there is a barn on Victoria Street, back of Dr. Crysler's, and one farther on, where Mr. W. J. Campbell's house is, and one on Eegent Street near where Mr. Eow- land's store is. In the next square on Prideaux Street, one where Mrs. Kenley's house is, formerly Kearins' hotel ; and on Eegent Street two small houses near where Mr. Curtis lives. On Queen Street in the same square, there are three houses about where Mr. May lives, one on each side, about where Mrs. Cassady lived before the war. In the next block on Gate Street, between Queen and Prideaux Streets, is a large house where the Harrington hotel was, probably the house of A. Eogers, now the house of Mrs. J. D. Servos. Three other houses are shown up to what was Eogers' brick building. In the far corner on Queen Street, there is a large corner building, past Dr. Anderson's, where the Charles Hall house stood, and two small ones on Simcoe Street. In the next block, beginning at King Street, now the Town Square, formerly owned by D. W. Smith, nothing at all is marked. In next square, a lot is marked and two houses where the old Bishop house stands, and one on Victoria Street, about where the Methodist church is now, and one at the corner where Miss Boehme lives, formerly H. Paf- fard's. In the next square, evidently open, a road runs, starting from MeClelland's corner to Mrs. Curtis' ; there is a small house about where Miss Creed lives, and a large lot marked where W. Lansing lives, with a house where his side entrance is, and one farther on. In the next square only one house is marked opposite, and two small ones about opposite Mr. H. Euthven's. On the first square on Johnson Street, next to King Street, nothing is marked but a small house about back of Mrs. Miles' on Gage Street. On the next square, between Johnson and Gage Streets, a large lot appears with two houses about where Miss Evans lives, and one opposite Mrs. Mason's. In the next block on Johnson Street is a house at the corner where the old Swinton house was. It is a tradition that this house was one of the two not burnt down in 1813. Another is marked about where Mr. Lyall lives, and a small one, or a barn, behind it, about the middle of the 104 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA square. In the next block on Johnson Street is a lot with a house about where Mr. Euthven lives, but there is no street marked as the continuation of Gate Street. A road slants from half way from Johnson Street to Gage Street through Mr. Gray's, the old Kingsmill property to King Street, and then to Butler's Barracks. In the square at the comer of Centre Street, opposite Captain Geale's, now Mr. Maurer's, is a lot marked off; and back of what was Judge Campbell's, and afterward Hon. J. B. Plumb's, is a small house or barn. In the Wilderness the Claus pro perty appears to be an orchard at the farthest end, and opposite that on Mary Street a house at the corner and a lot with two houses behind the orchard on Eegent Street. A large square in a vacant space is not marked off in streets; there seem to be a number of buildings between Eegent and Victoria Streets, but no streets are marked. There is an orchard also between Gate and Simcoe Streets and Gage and Centre Streets. The Indian Council House is marked as a long house in the middle and a small one at each side. This became the hospital in 1833, as shovm on another map. An enclo,sure back of it is marked with trees and a house as the Com mandant's quarters, two buildings and a square, laid out at the far corner next the Oak Grove. At Butler's Bar racks there are fourteen buildings and various enclosures, vrith no names given except the long building marked Butler's Barracks and Fuel Yard. There are two build ings as now which were the commissariat and the barrack master's, now used as headquarters during the camp. There are various roads running across the common — one from Port George to Butler's Barracks ; another from Prideaux Street and Queen Street to the Oak Grove; another from Port George to Prideaux Street, near the road on the common, is marked by a design representing American work. In Fort George in the first star are nine buildings, and outside in the second star are four buildings, marked as part of old fort. The whari is marked King's Wharf, and one building near it Navy Hall. Across the common are marked " American lines in ruins," extending to the church and down to Front Street. At the foot of King Street is marked the Guard House and Perry, and where STEEETS AND MAPS 105 now is the Queen's Hotel, " Engineers' Yard and Engin eers' Quarters," eight houses. At Port Mississauga there are six buildings, besides the square tower. Between Navy Hall and the Guard House are two buildings, marked 3 and 3, about where the present wharf is. There are two batteries between Fort George and the tovm and one be tween the Engineers' Quarters and Fort Mississauga. It may be thought that so much space need not have been given here to this map, but it has always been to me a very interesting subject, the condition of affairs in Niagara during the American occupation and how soon building was begun after the town was burnt. CHAPTEE XV. EARLY BUILDINGS AND EARLY MERCHANTS Although we have an account of many early buildings, very few of these are now in existence, from the havoc made by the rude hand of war, the touch of time, or the vandalism of some who rejoice in the destruction of the old to make room for newer and more fashionable struc tures. Besides Navy Hall and the buildings in Port George, we have accounts of the houses of D. W. Smith, of that of Secretary Jarvis, Hon. Eobert Hamilton, and Hon. William Dickson. In 1798 Captain Pilkington, E.E., gives us a description of the house of Hon. D. W. Smith, in size eighty feet long by forty feet wide, hall in the middle, a room on each side twenty feet square, and a room off each, twenty by fourteen feet; stair at the end of the hall, one turn in the circle, four fireplaces, a vault, large kitchen, pantry, baking-place off fireplace; upstairs sixty-five feet, four rooms, and probably two bedrooms. In the Jarvis letters the secretary tells of his search for a house. " I was ten days in search of a hut to place my wife and lambs in, without success. At length I was obliged to pay £140 for a log hut with three rooms, with half an acre of ground. I have purchased logs to make an addition to my hut, which will add a decent room to my purchase. Neither age nor youth are exempt from fever and ague in Niagara." This was in 1792, but later, on November 33nd, 1793, we have a description of a house well stocked with provisions for the winter, which shows that the secretary knew how to provide for all contingen cies. " I shall have my family well provided for this winter. I have a yoke of fattened oxen to come down ; twelve small shoats to put in a barrel occasionally, which I expect to weigh from forty to sixty pounds ; about sixty head of dunghill fowl; sixteen fine turkeys and a dozen ducks; two sows, and a milch cow which will give a good supply of milk through the winter. In the root-house I 106 EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 107 have four hundred head of good cabbage, about sixty bushels of potatoes, and a sufficiency of very excellent tur nips. My cellar is stored with three barrels of wine, two of cider, two of apples, and a good stock of butter. My cock loft contains some of the finest maple sugar I ever beheld — one hundred and fifty pounds of it — also plenty of flour, cheese, coffee, loaf sugar, etc. In the stable I have the ponies and a good sleigh, and the snuggest and warmest cottage in the province." Query, Where was the house ? Mrs. Jarvis says, " What little I have seen of the place, were it well cleared, would make some of the most beauti ful spots in the world. The Niagara Eiver affords a delightful prospect. The Pour Mile Creek meanders in a manner superior to any stream I ever saw, and was it in England would be a place worthy of the King's notice. There is a great mill upon it, and the family that it belongs to are Dutch. We have received more notice from them than could be expected. Mrs. Servos, as soon as she knew I was an American, sent me lard, sausages, pumpkins, Indian meal, squashes, carrots, etc. I had them here to dinner on the 27th." Probably the first fine residence built in Niagara was that owned by D. W. Smith, Deputy Surveyor-General, on Market Square. A picture of this is in the Eeference Lib rary, Toronto, and is thus described by Duke de la Eoche- foucauld de Liancourt : " The house of Colonel Smith, lieu tenant-colonel in the 5th Eegiment, is much distinguished from the rest. It is constructed, embellished and painted in the best style; the yard, garden and court surrounded with railings, as in England; a large garden, like a French kitchen-garden, is in good order." This was offered for sale in 1799, when the Government was removed, for a grammar school, but rejected as being directly in range of guns from Port Niagara. At a meeting of the Land Board in 1791 the town limits were enlarged and permission given to build a public-house at the east end of the town next the river and Mason's lodge next it. This we believe to have been the spot where Masonic Hall now stands, formerly Stone Barracks, in the list of lots, 1794, marked 33, " The Lodge," and in an other document, " Free Mason's Lodge." From the Land 108 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Board Meeting, 1791, it was supposed to be close to the river, but later investigation points to lot 33, singularly enough to the site of the present Masonic Lodge. The building of 1792 was used for church service, for meetings of the agricultural society, and for Simcoe's meetings with the Indians. The memorial of William Dickson, to Simcoe, about 1795, asking for more land, states that he erected the first brick house in the Province. The house built by the French General, Count de Puisaye, about three miles from Niagara, in 1799, still stands in part — half of it was taken down and the rest repaired. The brick house of Mrs. McFarland, built in 1800, is in good preservation yet, and that of the Fields family was built a little later. Both were used as hospitals in the War of 1812. In 1795 there is an advertisement of Ealfe Clench for materials for a jail and court house. This was on Prideaux Street, corner King Street, and farther north on Prideaux Street. On the same street at the corner of Eegent Street was the residence of Captain Stewart, where it is said Brock had been entertained, and the brick house now stand ing there belonging to Miss Alma was built by his son, Alexander Stewart, also a lawyer. The father had belonged to the Law Society formed in 1797. The house of Miss Mary Servos, on the Lake Eoad, called Palatine Hill, was part of it in existence in 1783 as a Government store, while that of Mr. John C. Ball, near Virgil, still stands, though much altered; and another of Joseph Clement, built in 1804, with its quaint staircase. The Government House was in the Market Square. The house of Hon. E. Hamilton, at Queenston, is described by Mrs. Simcoe, who was enter tained there in 1793, as " a very good stone house, the back rooms looking on the river; a gallery the length of the house is a delightful covered walk both below and above in all weather." The Indian Council House, near Butler's Barracks, was afterwards part of the Military Hospital, now marked by a stone marker and old willows. It is very difficult to locate the early stores and dwelling places before the War of 1813, but since the town was rebuilt it is fiot so difficult, for, as we find particular stars LOCUST GROVE, RESIDENCE OF MRS. J. W. BALL. RESIDENCE OF MISS MARY SERVOS. EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 109 in the heavens, and by the system of alignment we find other stars and constellations, so, knowing the position of a few houses, by studying the old advertisements, and finding a store mentioned as opposite one that we do know, we gain a little light; but some places elude us still. 'Where was Hind's hotel? "Where was the Lion Inn? or the Ex change ? or the Yellow House ? or the Medical Hall ? The Market Square had four corners, as well as the four out side corners, as a lane ran through the Square, and there was an open space on each side of the Market and in front of it. We know where were the Government House, the Gleaner printing office, the first jail and court house, the Navy Hall, the Angel Inn, the Promenade House, the Har rington Hotel, Niagara Coffee House, John Young's store and dwelling-house, E. M. Crysler's store and A. Eogers' hotel. In 1796 we read of Thomas Hind's King's Arms Hotel; in 1797, "To let, the Yellow House, on Lot 1, occupied by Mr. T. Hind, signed by W. J. Crooks." Was the King's Arms on the same lot? In the plans of the tovm, 1794, and now in 1913, Lot 1 is the corner of King and Front Streets. In 1791 there is a deed of land from John Fleck to Thomas Hind for £62, and next to S. Tiffany (notary public, Thos. Eidout). This was the corner of Prideaux and Victoria Streets. In 1799 G. S. Tiffany was opposite the Lion Tavern and 'C. Field has taken the noted house called Weir's Sign of the Lyon, and in 1798 Mrs. Weir was at the comer of Prideaux and Gate Streets. In 1816 we find an advertisement of E. Clench for material — stone, brick, lime, oak and pine timber— to build a jail and court house. In 1821 a deed was given by the Crown, under Peregrine Maitland, to trustees for the town, of two acres for market buildings. The trustees are William Dickson, James Muirhead and William Claus. In 1819 John Brown advertises Niagara Mansion House, on Pri deaux Street, commanding a view of the lake, "a large, commodious house." This is supposed to be what was afterwards called the Promenade House, afterwards kept by Howard. In 1830 the Duke of Eichmond Coffee House, kept by C. Koune, formerly occupied by James Eogers' Coffee House. D. Botsford, in 1830, advertises the Prome nade Tavern. The Niagara Hotel, Adam Crysler, in 1830 110 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA gave "a fair view of the lake, river, fort and Brock's monu ment, and is in the centre of the town." This is believed to be the house in the market square long occupied by E. Eeid, the chief constable. The British Hotel, comer of Queen and Gate Streets, burned in 1849, had a large hall where public meetings were held. The Court met here fo,r a year previous to 1847, and it is believed to have been Wilson's Hotel and called the Exchange. The Angel Inn was in the Market Square and was kept from 1826 to 1846 by E. Howard, and next by John Praser as the Mansion House. Mr. Howard, in 1846, went to the Promenade House, corner of Prideaux and Eegent Streets. The frequent change of name of hotels is very confusing. As fixing the position of the Exchange, an advertisement in The Gleaner, 1832, says, " For sale, a small dwelling-house on Gage Street, in rear of the Ex change," and the same year Francis Baby, dry goods, is on Main (Queen) Street, at the comer opposite the Exchange, and H. Chapman, auctioneer, opposite the British Hotel, Queen Street, 1833. The names given to taverns are some times remarkable, as the Golden Ball, the Eising Sun, the Eoyal Oak, the Black Swan, Sign of the Ball, Sign of the Crown, the Black Horse Tavern. The Golden Mortar was an apothecary's store, as was the Medical Hall. The names Exchange, Mansion House, Lyon's Inn, King's Arms, Angel Inn, Yellow House, Navy Hall Inn, and the Caledonia Hotel frequently occur. There must have been two houses called the Yellow House, as one we know was at the corner of King and Front Streets ; another is adver tised as near the Windmill. It depends on the meaning of the word near. John Young's store was on Queen Street, nearly oppo site the Court House, and his dwelling-house farther north, afterwards altered to become a store, called the Warden Block, and it next became Harrison's warehouse. James Lockhart, shipowner, banker, merchant, had first his store opposite John Young, then the corner of Queen and Eegent Streets, afterwards the Eogers' brick building. W. D. Miller's store was the brick building on Queen Street next the 'Court House. In 1832 John Alma's wine store was at the corner of Queen and Eegent Streets, a EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 111 tall, narrow brick store, since enlarged. Alexander McKee, at the time of the War of 1813, had several buildings, among them a store at the corner of Prideaux and Eegent Streets. 'When the town was burned some of the valuable contents were packed in trunks and sent to Twelve Mile Creek. In 1832 there is a petition of the inhabitants, which recounts that the four acres granted to Mr. Smith in 1793 were purchased in 1802 from his heirs for officers' bar racks for £2,250 sterling. The buildings were destroyed in war, and two acres were granted to the magistrates for a market in 1820. Lots 103, 104, contiguous, are military property and unoccupied. These four acres are now town property, and all ovming houses on them pay ground rent. The memorial of William Crooks asks for an enlargement for the office for the clerk of the peace, hay-weighing machine, and a shed for the fire engine. The court house and jail built in 1817, now the Western Home, was used for both purposes till 1847, when the present court house was built, and the building of 1817 was used as a jail till St. Catharines became the county town, or really later, as Fenian prisoners were confined here for a short time in 1866 before being sent to Toronto. In the diary of John Goldie, an accomplished botanist, who travelled on foot through a great part of Ontario in 1819, and who made three collections of flowers pressed, to send to Sco'tland, but unfortunately none of which reached their destination, we obtain a reference to the jail and court house in Niagara, built in 1817. He says, "The only building worthy of particular notice is the jail, which stands about a quarter of a mile out of the town. It is a large two-story house, of brick, very handsome, and it is considered to be the finest building in Canada. At present it holds within its walls the celebrated Gourlay. I suspect his greatest fault is speaking too many truths." This was on the 10th July. The present Masonic Hall was built about 1818 by John Eaglesum, partly out of the ruins of the town, as he is said to have gathered up the stones of foundations of liouses. It was used as a store by him, part of it as a private school by Mr. and Mrs. McKee, then by James 112 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Miller as the Niagara Coffee House, corner of King and Prideaux Streets. It is next called Miller's Ballroom, then the Stone Barracks during and after the Eebellion and in the Fenian Eaid. For a long time it was used for the public school, at one time the Grammar School, and finally was bought by the Masonic body and fitted up at much expense. The Harrington Hotel, corner of Gate and Prideaux Streets, was kept by Alexander Eogers. James Eogers also kept a hotel near Jared Stocking and C. Koune. In 1817 Eogers and Stocking were near Alexander Eogers' hotel and in 1819 James Eogers advertises the Niagara Coffee House. In 1828 the Niagara House, built and occu pied as a hotel by " the late Mr. Jas. Eogers, was pleasantly situated on Main Street, and from its galleries has a com manding view of the beautiful scenery surrounding the town. Fort Mississauga and Fort George can be distinctly seen, and the noble river Niagara is seen emptying the waters of the great western lakes into the bosom of Ontario." This is certainly a sufficiently grandiloquent description, and the advertisement goes on to describe the fitting-up, attendants, larder, stables, yards and sheds, and is signed by Eobert Gray. Was this the site of the Eogers' brick building, or was it the building called, at one time, the Exchange or British Hotel, slanting across the comer of Main and Gate Streets? In 1830 the Exchange House, Whittemore, advertises a spacious building formerly occu pied by Mr. Eobert Gray, with view of Lake Ontario. In 1832 is advertised Medical Store, opposite the Exchange — ^M. Miller (the wife of Dr. Miller). Whether this is the same building advertised in 1831 by E. Starkweather, Sign of the Golden Mortar, Queen Street, at Niagara, apothe cary store, we know not. The same year John Milton advertises the Caledonian Hotel on Prideaux Street. In 1824 John Graham advertises his wagon-making shop in the yard of the inn. Sign of the Eoyal Oak. He after wards had a tavern on comer of Prideaux Street and King Street, with the sign of the Black Swan. The Eising Sun, still standing on Mississauga Street, was kept at one time bv Noble Keith, as was also the Eoyal Oak on the Lake Eoad. EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 113 The Ferry was formerly at the mouth of the river, but a petition from Andrew Heron, in 1823, asked to have it at Navy Hall, the sand bar at the mouth of the river being pleaded as an objection. He had petitioned in 1819 for more land at Navy Hall, where was an Inn, advertised as late as 1847 as Navy Hall Inn, at the Perry. This inn was afterwards kept by Ealfe Clench. In the Niagara paper for July 30th, 1833, occurs the following notice: "The Messrs. Eogers are far on the way with a three- story brick building, which will be the largest structure in this town. Many other buildings are being erected. The Dock is progressing rapidly, owing to the exertions of Cap tain Melville, to whom Niagara is largely indebted." In this building an immense wholesale and retail business was done, and teams conveyed goods to all the towns and villages around. It was said that the sales often amounted to an average of one thousand dollars per day. At this time there were five wholesale groceries in the town. The Eogers' brick building served many purposes, as for stores, schools, both public and grammar, band quarters, roller skating rink, "Young People's room, and kindergarten. It was finally taken down, as it had been long vacant. In 1838 William Moffatt advertises his tavern, sign of the Crown, as a two-story stand opposite Mr. Lewis Don- ally — eight bedrooms, two dining rooms, stabling, fruit trees, and a well. This building is on Johnson Street, and is now occupied by Mr. Lyall, the town clerk. Mr. Camidge conducted here for years the York Academy, before his tragic death. In 1847 the court house was so far finished that the court was held in September. His Honor Mr. Justice Jones opened the court, assisted by E. C. Campbell (after wards County Judge) and Thomas Butler. His Honor alluded, in very complimentary terms, to the inhabitants of Niagara generally, and the Board of Police in particu lar, in the creation of the noble and elegant edifice in which the court was assembled. It was capacious, well adapted for the purposes for which it was designed, and would reflect honor on any locality. He was decidedly of the opinion that it was superior to any other building in the Province. 9 114 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA We learn elsewhere that the first cost was $30,000, but much more was spent afterwards. Among the earliest merchants in town, the name of George Porsyth is frequently mentioned. His tombstone speaks of his integrity. Land was granted to George For syth, so many feet from the commissariat store at Navy Hall. The name of John Grier occurs in a lengthy corres pondence with the Government. It appears he had a tan nery, and during the War of 1812 the tanpits were filled up by order of Captain Vavasour. Grier complained to the Governor at Quebec. Vavasour is reprimanded and writes to defend himself. Another site is offered to Grier, which is refused. Finally, in 1819, the matter is settled. It is interesting to us, as the small map sent, 1818, has been preserved, showing the same building, which may be seen yet, and marked Navy Hall. Thomas Dickson, of Queenston, was an extensive mer chant. A bill, dated 1805, states that he sent to Navy Hall 534 bushels of buckwheat, 543 of corn at 60 cents, 8 barrels of superfine fiour at $7.00 per barrel. Andrew Heron was a bookseller, and his advertisements show a fine selection of classical, religious, historical and poetical works. He must have been a man of means, as mentioned before. James Lockhart did an extensive business as a dry goods merchant at the corner of Queen and Eegent Streets. His fair, rosy-cheeked, genial face is yet remembered. A receipt lately was found, given doubtless to some one who had asked for a receipt in full: "This is to certify that P. Clement has paid all he owed me from the beginning of the world to the present time." This, of course, must have been given jocularly. William Barr's portly form is yet remembered, and his large snuff mull. He advertises at the Arcade, corner of Queen and King Streets, where O'Neil's hotel now stands. His advertisement takes up a whole column in verse. An old bank book has been found of a noted merchant, John McCulloch. The extensive business done by him was shown by the teams in the early morning heavily laden to supply the stores of Queenston, Stamford, Drummond- ville, 'Chippawa, St. Catharines, Thorold, and many other EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 115 places. The date of the book is 1860 to 1869. The amounts deposited totalled $15,0'00 per month, and those paid out were heavy, too, but there was always a comfort able balance in the bank. The store was that now owned by Mrs. Bottomley, and many remember how well stocked the shelves were, and the proprietor, a tall, upright, slight and somewhat stern man, honorable in his dealings, whose word was as good as his bond. In the Niagara Herald, August 7th, 1838, we see that the town suffered by fires. " We feel the loss of the Man sion House and Merchants' Exchange, which was so recently consumed by fire, but the more ample accom modation of the new Niagara House in a measure supplies their absence." An old house on the road leading to the Western Home was used as a school by Miss Young in 1835, and is said by some to have been built before the war, but later infor mation fixes the date as 1816. There are five fireplaces, and the chimneys show that they were built many years ago. One of the oldest houses is that occupied by Miss Painter, in which lived some of the officials of the Government, and here Indians came at one time to receive their allowance. Tradition points to the comer opposite, where Governor Simcoe lived for a short time^a long, low house, one of the two spared from the fire, Merritt says Gordon's house, the other one was that of Ealfe Clench ; but, unfortunately, it was burned accidentally a few months after, seventeen persons occupying it, the families of Clench and Stewart being cousins. The present house, still called the Clench house, was built in 1836, and here may be seen a number of beautiful mantels of hand-made workmanship. A house nearly opposite the Queen's Eoyal was built between 1820 and 1836 by Captain Gates, who commanded the packet Du'ke of Richmond, and built here so that his wife might see his vessel on approaching from Toronto. The brick house occupied by G. Bernard, at the corner of Centre and Mississauga Streets, was the residence of John Breaken- ridge, while that now occupied by Mr. Silverthorn was long the residence of James Lockhart, and first that of Charles Eichardson, while that opposite was the residence of Charles 116 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA L. Hall, called frequently Lawyer Hall, but was first occu pied by E. M. Crysler. The brick residence was the post office and that next of A. Gilkison, now occupied by Dr. Anderson. The present McClelland store was long occupied by Peter and Alexander Christie, but in earlier days was the store of Lewis Clement. The store of E. M. Crysler was opposite the Eogers' brick building, after wards the furniture warehouse of Hamilton Gibson. The upper story was the meeting-place of the Freemasons, and when the building was destroyed by fire in 1859, they lost their minute books, regalia, etc. The drug store of J. de W. Eandall, and long that of Henry Paffard, was the law office of E. . C. Campbell, and near it was the store of James Harvey, druggist and chemist; farther on were Culver and Cameron's store and the residence of John Young and his large store. The present brick store of P. Eowland was formerly that of A. Martin, who succeeded Whan and McLean. The store was built in 1846. The whereabouts of the Yellow House was long a mys tery, but a deed contributed by Miss Gilkison, of Brant ford, shows conclusively that it was No. 1, the corner of King and Front Streets, sold by Auldjo in 1803 to Thomas McCormick for £600, first demand, £1,000. The building now standing was long occupied by Thomas McCormick, the manager of the Bank of Upper Canada, and the vaults may yet be seen. In the maps of the town may be seen marked the Engin eers' Quarters, where the Queen's Eoyal stands. The Elliot House was built in 1838 ; at the foot of the street was the Guard House, close to the water, and right in the middle of the street. Opposite the Elliot House, so deservedly popular, was the Gleaner printing office of Andrew Heron. At the south comer of the town are three beautiful resi dences, known as Eose Lawn, Pine Hurst and Eowan Wood. These were the houses of Hon. William Dickson, Dr. Mel ville and "Eobert Dickson — spacious lawns, magnificent old trees and stately mansions, now owned by J. H. Lewis, C. S. Greiner and G. H. Eand. The last, the residence for a long time of Hon. W. H. Dickson, was then bought by General Lansing and afterwards by Livingstone. Lans- EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 117 ing is now called Eandwood, from the present owner, who has made extensive additions. The house commonly known as the Morson house was built, about 1836, by Mr. John Powell, son of Chief Justice William Dummer Powell. It was sold to Mr. James Boulton and was then a square house with a large room at the right for a ball-room. A large room was then built for a supper room, and a verandah was also added. It has been occupied or owned since by William Cayley, Captain Milloy, Mr. Benedict, Mr. McPhail and Dr. Mor son. The grounds are extensive, with beautiful trees, and the outlook is fine, embracing the Military Eeserve, the Oak Grove, French Thorns, Fort George, and the Military Quarters. The house of Eev. E. Addison, three miles from Niagara, was thus described by Mr. William Kirby as he saw it first about 1850 : " Only one room remains as before, as so many alterations have been made. It was then inuch farther from the shore, as there was a large garden in front sloping down to the lake, but the encroachments of the waves have carried away much soil. It was, of course, built long before the war, was a large house, part of it log, with large fireplaces for wood, and a large porch in front with pillars." Mr. Kirby also tells that the Military Hospital was, part of it, originally the Indian Council House. This is con firmed by the statement on a map obtained from the Archives, which shows the plan in 1833, and that it had been the Indian Council House. Mr. Kirby stated that there was one long room with a large fireplace, with fine woodwork and carving. The deadhouse attached to the hospital had supports which might then be seen. The foundation of the hospital after it was burnt, about 1880, was sold or given to a Niagara man, who spent a month in digging out the stones. Mrs. Eoe described Locust Grove, the residence of her father, Mr. George Ball. " Built about 1830, the woodwork inside — stairs and balusters, wainscot and panels on each side of the large fireplace, with fluting on the mantel — was mostly of black walnut. The bricks of the building were made on the place, in the sheep meadows. Metal to cover the 118 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA roof was brought from Montreal. There was a large draw ing-room, both upstairs and downstairs. Eleven children were brought up here. For dinner, at one time, there were sixty peach dumplings. A black servant made Johnny cake, which required sixty-four eggs. Most of the black servants had been slaves. Everything full and plenty — tubs of sausages, barrels of corned beef, etc." The house of Peter Ball, built in 1816, a photo of which we have, was t^ken down or moved to be used as a packing house for fruit when the new house, long occupied by Eobert N. Ball, was built. The Engineers' Quarters, where at one time Captain Baxter lived, was where the hotel kitchen now is. There was a long low building with a passage through it with thick brick walls, inside clap- boarded; a bomb-proof roof and a vault for wine, or powder, with arched stables near. Captain Vavasour, who at one time lived here, called his residence Teneriffe Cot tage. One of the most interesting houses, and perhaps the oldest in town, is that situated in what is called "The Wilderness," part of it having been left in a state of nature. Here are some of the grandest trees to be found, perhaps, in the Province — a row of sycamores, beautiful acacias and weeping willows; a Balm of Gilead tree, said to be two hundred feet high, and its trunk in circumfer ence sixteen feet; an old oak, in girth nearly twenty feet. The house was built shortly after the war, and in shape is said to resemble "Longwood," occupied by Napoleon in St. Helena./ In 1799 the land became the property of Mrs. Ann 'Glaus, the wife of Daniel Claus, and daughter of Sir William Johnson. Here met bands of Indians to receive their presents, as Colonel Daniel Claus and his son were Superintendents of Indian Affairs. After the first house was burnt, in 1813, Mrs. Taylor, wife of Fort Major Taylor, took refuge, with her children, in an old root- house, known then and since as " The Pit," and in a large dug-out, or cave, in the bank, it is said forty wounded men lived during the winter following. The property remained in the Claus family for many years, and now again a member of the Claus family is in possession — the wife of Major Evans. It is probable that the house was built ^^^^^^^^^^Kk^^ 1 I^^^^K _:. ¦%. ^jjS^SB^^^^f^j^^B^^^^^^B^^^^^^M ^gjjH^HO HII^I HOUSE USED AS A SCHOOL BY MISS YOUNG IN 1825. BUILT IN 1816. JAMES BUTLER'S HOUSE BEFORE 1812. EAELY BUILDINGS AND MEECHANTS 119 in 1816, as it is told that Eichard Miller, Q.C., was born there in 1817, when the house of his father, W. D. Miller, was being built, so that this residence, now owned by Mr. James Eobinson, must be one of the oldest houses in town. But perhaps older than any is that now occupied by Mr. N. Bissell, always called the James Butler house, as reliable evidence shows that it was there on the day of the Battle of Queenston Heights. The wa^lls of the square hall and of the parlor were decorated with grape loaves, and grapes artistically painted, and two alcoves or closets of solid walnut may yet be seen. One fine brick residence on the river road must not be forgotten, that built by John Wilson, the owner of the Exchange, in town, who must have been a very wealthy man, owning several thousand acres of land. His will, made in 1837, is a remarkable document, covering fifteen pages of foolscap; it has twenty divisions and leaves pro perty to his wife and eleven children and two step-daugh ters. The house is approached by the finest avenue of trees in the neighborhood. It was long the residence of E. M. Warren, who planted valuable fruit trees, and it is now owned by E. J. Maclntyre, who has greatly im proved it. CHAPTEE XVI. FREEMASONS. To give a connected and complete history of Free masonry in Niagara is a difficult task. Eecords and build ings were destroyed by fire, but remarkable finds have also been made, of documents hidden away with a century's dust upon them. The sources from which this sketch is made are various — advertisements in the old newspapers of the tovm, local traditions gleaned from old members, references in diaries or books of early travel, the minutes of the Lodge, documents happily unearthed — ^but much has been gleaned by conning the pages of the history of 'Freemasonry by that indefatigable collector of engravings, prints, miniatures and historical documents, John Eoss Eobertson, journalist, philanthropist, historian. On the corner of King and Prideaux Streets, on a square, massive building opposite the park, may be seen a tablet with the words : " Niagara Lodge No. 3, A. P. and A. M., 1793." But the first reference we find to Masonry near Niagara goes back to 1780, when the King's 8th Eegiment was stationed at Fort Niagara. The certificates of membership are in existence of Brother Joseph Clement, Henry Nelles, and H. W. Nelles, 1780, and are carefully preserved by their descendants. That of Brother D. Servos is dated 1784. These were issued in Canada. There was also a lodge at Queenston in 1783, as shown by the petition of Joseph Brown. The lodge met at the house of Joseph Brown, on the river road, and among the members were James Cooper and Charles Field, the latter of Niagara. This, it is evident, was united with Lodge 3, of Niagara, 1793. At a meeting of the Land Board in Niagara in 1791, permission was given to build a public-house at the east end of the town, 120 FEEEMASONS 121 next the river, and a Masonic lodge next to it. King Street was then the boundary of the town. In Mrs. Sim coe's diary, recently published, occur these words : " 29th July, we met for divine service in the Freemasons' hall, as there is no church here." On June 27th, 1793, members of the Agricultural Society met at the Freemasons' hall. In December, 1792, we find from records that William Jarvis, Provincial Secretary, was present at the celebration of St. John's day, at Freemasons' hall, as Provincial Grand Master. Prom The Upper Canada Gazette or American Oracle, published at Niagara, we obtain notices of the meet ings of Masons, as on 14th of July, 1794, and again on August 29th meetings are called, signed by Ealfe Clench. The first notice of a meeting of the Provincial Grand Lodge is in July, 1795, when five lodges met at Newark. Prom the vicissitudes through which the town has passed, from the red hand of war and conflagration pale, it is no easy task to trace the history of this lodge, and particu larly from the different names and numbers as occurring in the British records and those of Quebec, as well as of our own province. But if much has been lost and exasperating breaks occur in the record, there have been wonderful finds when all hope of success was abandoned. Witness the find ing of the petitions for admission from 1782 to 1790, those from St. John's Lodge of Friendship, 1796-1810, the find made by that never-tiring investigator, John Eoss Eobert son, of the minutes of the Grand Lodge from 1816 to 1822, in an old trunk, and still more wonderful, the finding of the first manuscript draft of the Charter of the Grand Lodge given to William Jarvis, in 1792, and now, after 106 years, found in 1898, in an envelope with other papers, in London, England. The charter, given in 1795, was presented to 'the lodge in 1907, by E. W. A. Freed, Deputy Grand Master, of Hamilton. In The Upper Canada Gazette the following notices are found: In 1796 "St. John's Lodge of Friendship, No. 3, will meet at Wilson's tavern, on the Festival of St. John. By order of the lodge, Ealfe Clench"; December 13th, " The members of the Grand Master's Lodge will meet at Thompson's hotel, to celebrate the Festival. J. McKay, Secretary"; January 4th, 1797, "The lodges, No. 3 and 4, 122 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA of Free and Accepted Masons, clothed in badges, and pre ceded by a band of music playing Masonic airs, walked in procession to the Presbyterian Meeting House, when Mr. Dun delivered an excellent and philanthropic discourse, with deep attention from a crowded audience. The thanks of the lodges are given for this excellent and liberal dis course. Thomas Clark, Secretary of Lodge No. 2, Eichard Cockrell, Secretary of Lodge No. 4." (Lodge No. 4 was warranted in 1794). In 1796 it is reported that in Philan thropy Lodge, No. 4, at a meeting in their room, in New ark, it was " resolved to establish ,a fund for the benefit of Freemasons' widows and orphans and indigent brothers' children." Whether this laudable resolution was carried out we have no means of knowing. In 1798 " Freemasons No. 2 met at Queenston at the new lodge room, and the Grand Lodge and other lodges in town walked to Wilson's hotel to meet their brethren from Queenston and the mountain (Stamford) . About one o'clock a procession was formed of Grand Master's Lodge and lodges Nos. 2, 4, 12. They walked to Hind's hotel, and after business, sat down to an elegant dinner with loyal and Masonic toasts, till eight o'clock." In 1799 " the Grand Lodge and others met at Brother Fields' at twelve noon. Procession to church, and sermon by Eev. Brother Addison, 'Grand Chaplain." It is known that the house of Brother Fields was in Niagara, near the corner of Queen and Gate Street, and a curious little story has eome dovm to us of the American occupation of the tovm in 1813. After the place was taken, most of the inhabitants having fied, soldiers were ransacking the house of Charles Fields and the Masonic regalia being found in a chest, as this was the place of meeting of one lodge, an officer present ordered the search to be stopped and the house to be protected, he being evidently a Mason. We have very few records of the period during the war, but in 1818 we find that " the Grand Lodge of Upper Canada and the lodges in the country formed a procession from the house of James Eogers to the church, and heard an excellent sermon by Eev. E. Addison, Grand Chaplain, and then returned and sat down to an excellent dinner at five o'clock. Colonel Grant favored them with the excellent MASONIC HALL. QUEENSTON IN 1840. FEEEMASONS 123 band of the 70th Eegiment for the procession." In 1823 "the Masonic Brethren No. 4 dined at the lodge room in Mrs. A. Eogers' hotel, on St. John's day, December 27th, at eight p.m. Signed, Eobert Emery." In 1826 the newspapers were full of the disappearance of Morgan, who was believed to have been drowned. Many boats were dragging for the body, and one found forty miles below the fort was supposed to be his. In one issue of The Gleaner are letters from Edward McBride, M.P.P., Jared Stocking, B. Cook and A. Locker, all bearing on the subject. The story is that Morgan had written a book betraying the secrets of Masonry. For this it is alleged he was abducted, placed in one of the blockhouses at Port Niagara as a prisoner, from thence taken in a boat and thrown into the river. The accounts, however, are very con tradictory. 'One is that five men, three from the United States and two from Canada, were selected to do the deed. The confession of Samuel Chubbuck, the veteran mail carrier of Youngstown, aged 88, does not mention the Canadians, but that the men were chosen by lot, met, car ried out "a parcel" from the fort, and went out on the river. When they returned the " parcel " was missing. The chief point was the injury done to the cause. In the words of an old Niagara Mason : " Every pulpit was preaching against us, and we met anywhere we could." One lodge became dormant from 1824 to 1845, as is shown by a document signed by four of the members agreeing to close the meetings from want of funds, "till more advan tageous circumstances arise." Signed, E. H. Dee, W. J. Kerr, J. A. Stevenson, J. McGlashen. In The Gleaner of February 10th, 1827, is an article opposing Masonry. The ladies had meetings in some places, and resolved " not to receive the addresses of Masons nor allow their daughters to receive such or become the wives of Masons." It is not likely these very drastic measures were carried out for any length of time. In 1827 " Masonic Lodge No. 557, Provincial No. 4, is removed from the house of Brother A. Crysler to the house of Brother E. Howard, Market Square." In 1828, "For sale at The Gleaner office. Narrative of Facts as to the Kidnapping and Presumed Murder of William Morgan; also Anti- 124 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Masonic Almanac, 48 pages ; Giddin's Almanac, price l^'Yz cents." In 1847 a sermon was preached by Dr. Lundy to Masons, and dinner was at Howard's. The different numbers used in referring to the two Niagara lodges cause great con fusion. Thus No. 2 is also known as No. 19, the seal being St. John's Lodge No. 19, Niagara, the number 19 being given by Quebec Grand Lodge; again the numbers given by England were 775, 440, and 488, 490, 430 and 521, and at one time Dalhousie Lodge, all this being very con fusing. By the fire of 1869 the documents and regalia were all destroyed when the frame building in which the Free masons met was burned to the ground and nothing saved. When the first building erected by the Freemasons in 1792 was destroyed is not known. It is remarkable that after all the wanderings of the brethren they should now be located on the site of the first building. Much labor has been devoted by the present writer in the search of documents to prove this. From the statement of the meeting of the Land Board, 1791, it was believed that the first Masonic hall was at the foot of King Street, next to the old Gleaner printing office, and the Historical Society placed a stone marker there with an inscription to that effect, but later investigation modified that view. In a list of lots in town in 1794, num ber 33, which is the comer of King and Prideaux Street, one block above the spot marked, is labelled " The Lodge," and on examining manuscripts in the Parliament Build ings, lot 33 is again marked " Freemasons' Lodge." The apparent contradiction may be explained in different ways. Although permission was given to erect the building at the corner next the tavern, it may mean the corner of the next square, or the Masons may have had the plot changed for another. It is certainly a wonderful coincidence that the Masonic Lodge of 1913 should be on the site granted in 1791, one hundred and twenty-two years before. The places of meeting have been numerous — the original Free masons' hall, Charles Fields, Alexander Eogers', store of E. J. Crysler, Angel Inn, Eogers' brick building, Howard's hotel, and Stone Barracks. The latter building was finally FEEEMASONS 125 bought by the fraternity and fitted up at considerable expense. In itself it is an historic building, as it was built about 1816, partly from stones gathered from the ruins of the town by John Eaglesum, and used as a store, as a school, as a hotel, as a barracks, and long known as the " Stone Barracks." The history of the lodge is a most remarkable one, the dis pute between the Grand Lodge of Niagara and the Grand Lodge of York, memorable and lasting for years, being settled only by great skill, firmness and forbearance. When William Jarvis, Secretary to Governor Simcoe, removed to York, it being made the capital, he wished to remove the Grand Lodge, his theory being that of Napoleon : " The Empire ! I am the Empire !" But Niagara insisted that it and it alone was still the seat of the Grand Lodge, and went on forming new lodges, being much more active than that at York. However, some lodges refused to acknowledge the authority of Niagara, and Niagara and its lodges re fused to submit to the Grand Lodge of York. " Each spake words of high disdain." The dispute went on for years, conducted sometimes with grand and ceremonious courtesy, sometimes with great acrimony. The matter was referred to England, and was finally settled by a compromise, York being declared the Grand Lodge, but the work done by Niagara Grand Lodge being acknowledged. From 1797 Jarvis took little interest and did little except in signing documents. He was not well up in Masonic lore, and was ruled by Brother Danby. Niagara Grand Lodge was active and formed several new lodges, indeed, did far more than York. Some lodges acknowledged the authority of Niagara, others did not, being warned not to do so. In 1803 Niagara had the courage to appoint a Grand Master, George Forsyth, instead of Jarvis, and wrote to him by S. Tiffany, to return the jewels to the lodge at Niagara. Danby was the moving spirit. At the meeting of the Grand Lodge at York the conduct of the Niagara brethren was considered " unwarrantable." Eight lodges did not attend, eight did, 'and two concurred. Sedition was to be stamped out, and a long statement was sent to England, from George Porsyth, detailing the circumstances. No satisfactory reply was received. However, Grand Master 126 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Jarvis had been reproved for his inertness. The period of the war put an end to the dispute for the time, and, in fact, to all Masonic endeavor, as there were no meetings from 1812 to 1817, when a convention at Kingston took steps to straighten out matters; but little attention was paid to the request for settlement, which strengthened the position of Niagara. Some lodges were in doubt whether to give allegiance to York or Niagara. On the death of Jarvis, in 1817, the warrant was returned to Niagara by his family, and as a copy could not be found in England, there were grave doubts how far his power extended. Strange to say, this copy was not found in England till 1898, having lain nearly one hundred years, and the real warrant was found with Niagara records the next year, 1899, by John Eoss Eobertson. Brother Simon McGillivray was sent out from England, and visited the Ontario lodges. He wrote letters from Niagara, August, 1822, and treated Niagara Lodge tenderly but firmly. He put much blame upon Jarvis for neglect, and as was shown by the warrant, for exceeding his powers, which were ill-defined, and this justified Niagara in its course. In McGillivray's report to England, he shows great impartiality, and thinks both parties had been to blame. He would not allow the Kingston party to attach blame to the Niagara Lodge. Several of his letters are dated from Niagara, three on August 37th, and after visiting other lodges he returned to Niagara before crossing to York. He was determined to antagonize neither party. In a letter he had stated rather unwillingly that since Jarvis left Niagara there had been no regular Grand Lodge in the District, but he had felt tenderness in referring to the Niagara brethren. In the final settlement he showed great tact in his appointments, confirming Kerr as Past Grand Master and making his son P.S.G.'W'., and similarly with others in the Bast. One reason, perhaps, for the success of Brother McGillivray was that he could look at the matter from both sides, and not with the insularity of an English man. Born in Scotland, he had been in the fur trade in Canada and helped to unite the Hudson's Bay and North- West Companies. Established in business in Montreal and London, England, he visited Canada every year and thus FEEEMASONS 137 brought a knowledge of and sympathy with the Canadian brethren which, added to his ability and integrity, helped to secure his success in the settlement of this vexed ques tion. Among the names of early Niagara Masons are many noted people. The 'Grand Chaplain was Eev. Eobert Addison, the 'first missionary to Upper Canada; Hon. Eobert Hamilton, Deputy Grand Master, was the lieutenant of the county, and judge, dispensing hospitality from his fine mansion at Queenston. Grand Master Kerr was a military surgeon, whose wife was a daughter of Sir Wil liam Johnson and Molly Brant. Colonel John Butler was Superintendent of the Indians and Commander of Butler's Eangers. Eichard Cockerel was a noted teacher, George Forsyth was a merchant, and Sylvester Tiffany was the editor of The Upper Canada Gazette. John Clement is called, in Mr. Kirby's poem, " The U. E.," " Eanger John." Alexander Stewart, a member of the Law Society of 1797, was a captain in the Eoyal American Dragoons. Ealfe Clench occupied many positions of trust. In later times among the Past Masters have been W. G. P. Dovms, E. M. Wilson, S. J. J. Brown, A. Servos, G. A. Clement, H. J. Brown, J. M. Clement, E. Best, D. Servos, S. H. Follett, J. Knox, H. L. Anderson, T. P. Best, J. de W. Eandall, J. H. Brown, P. J. Eowland, C. E. Brown, T. Stewart. CHAPTEE XVII. SCHOOLS, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE. To go back a period of one hundred and twenty years would not seem so difficult a task, but to piece out the history of the early schools of Niagara we find the difficul ties are almost insuperable — so many records burned in the war, so shifting the population from the many vicissi tudes of the town; but by dint of newspaper items, some valuable old letters and documents, account books, extracts from the Archives of Canada, and the tales of the oldest inhabitants, we are able to piece out a tolerably correct sketch of our " Schools and Schoolmasters," it must be confessed with gaps here and there which it is hoped may yet be filled. There were private schools, garrison schools, the District Grammar School and the District School, Church schools. Separate schools. Ladies' schools. Classical schools. Night schools. Boarding schools, schools for col ored children, dames' scho'ols, the Fort school, and many others. In the diary of Colonel Clarke, father of the late Doctor Clarke, of St. Catharines, he speaks of attending the garrison school at Fort Niagara in 1787 ; the fort was not given up to the Americans till 1796. When he came to the British side of the river the best teacher he went to was Eichard Cockerell, an Englishman, who, we read, opened a school at Niagara in 1797. In The Upper Canada Gazette of that date, he advertises an " Evening school, writing, arithmetic, bookkeeping taught at four shillings a week ; for teaching any branch of practical or speculative mathematics, eight dollars, from six to eight in the even ing." In 1799 he removed to Ancaster, and in thanking the public for their support recommends the Eev. Arthur, "who teaches Latin and Greek and will take a few young gentlemen to board." All honor should be given to Governor Simcoe for his strenuous efforts to provide educational advantages for this province, as shown by letters to Secretary Dundas, in 138 SCHOOLS, PUBLIC AND PEIVATE 139 1793, and to the Bishop of Quebec in 1793, and in 1795 to the Duke of Portland for a school in Niagara. In 1797 Mr. James Blayney advertises a school in the town, and in 1803 Mr. and Mrs. Tyler, between Niagara and Queenston, advertise a regular day and night school, " children from four, both sexes, price in proportion to the kind of instruction, reading, writing, and arithmetic taught, for young ladies all that is necessary for their sex, to appear decently and be useful in the world and in all that concerns housekeeping. Mrs. Tyler having been bred in the line of mantua making, will receive and do her endeavors to execute her work in the neatest manner " — an advertisement really more comprehensive than at first sight it appears. In the record book of St. Andrew's Church, commencing 30th 'September, 1794, there are frequent references to teachers in connection with the church, thus : " Septem ber 2nd, 1802, the Eev. John Young, from the city of Montreal, was engaged at one hundred pounds, Halifax currency, and a dwelling house; also to have the teaching of a school exclusive of his salary as a preacher of the gospel." An,d on 13th of April, 1805, a salary is offered to a minister "who will be induced to teach thirteen scholars in the Latin, Greek and mathematics." 'Why thir teen, we do not know. Now comes almost a blank, as might be expected, for during the period of the war the schools were closed. It is easy to see that in 1812 while the town was in danger; in 1813 in the hands of the Americans, the British around in a semi-circle, skirmishes occurring frequently; in 1814 the people scattered in all directions, and a heap of ruins representing the homes from which had gone forth the children to the schools referred to, the records lost; some years would elapse before schools were again in opera tion. In 1820 the Eev. Thomas Creen taught a private school, and in the Niagara Spectator, 1817, is a circular signed by Ealfe Clench, containing what we would now consider a work of supererogation, namely, a system of Bible distribution by the teachers of the Niagara District, a number of directions so paternal that they would be opposed now, to inquire, by going from house to house, if 10 130 HISTOEY OF NI'AGAEA the settlers possessed a Bible, and in what condition it was. If not able to pay for one the name was to be sent to Samuel iStreet, at Falls Mills, Secretary of Niagara Bible Society. Also a form of report of Trustees' and Teachers' Certificate to receive salary, merely that he has taught the school for six months, is a British subject, had not less than twenty scholars and has demeaned himself to their satis faction. There are also rules for the govemnient of com mon schools, ten in number; as succinctly said by Doctor Hodgins, " Compared with the comprehensiveness and elaborateness of to-day those of ninety years ago make up for their lack in this respect, by their clearness and brevity." " No. 1. — The master to commence the labors of the day by a short prayer. " No. 4. — Corporal punishment is seldom necessary, except for bad habits learned at home. Lying, disobedi ence, obstinacy, these sometimes require chastisement, but gentleness even in these cases would do better with most children. " No. 5.— All other offences arising chiefly from live liness land inattention are better corrected by shame, such as gaudy caps, placing the culprits by themselves, not ad mitting anyone to play with them for a day or days, de taining them after school hours or during a play afternoon and by ridicule. " No. 7. — T'he forenoon of Wednesday and Saturday to be set apart for Eeligious Instruction ; to render it agree able the school should be furnished with at least ten copies of Barrow's Questions on the New Testament. The teacher to have one copy of the Key to these questions for his own use. " No. 8. — The afternoon of Wednesday and Saturday to be allowed for play. " No. 9. — Every day to close with reading publicly a few verses of the New Testament, proceeding regularly through the gospels." The framers of the rules do not seem to have had much faith in the Scriptural knowledge of their teachers. The ladies' schools must not be forgotten. One narra tor tells of a Mrs. Eadcliffe in 1820, who taught the harp SCHOOLS, PUBLIC AND PEIVATE 131 and piano. Mr. George Keefer, the founder of Thorold, sent four daughters to this school, and one of them, the late Mrs. McFarland, tells us that girls were sent from all parts of the district, aged from six to twenty-two. A regi ment of soldiers marched past every Sunday morning, their band playing. The girls were dressed alike and ready to march two by two following, keeping step with the music. They were sometimes called Mrs. Eadcliffe's regi ment, and many of them retained their love for martial music. The oldest building now standing which served as a schoolhouse is that near the Western Home, built in 1816 by George Young. Here, in 1827, Miss Young taught a large private school. The old-fashioned fireplaces, five in number, may yet be seen, in one of them the crane and oven in the brickwork. In The Niagara Herald is the advertisement in 1830 of the Niagara Seminary for young ladies, taught by Mrs. Fenwick and Mrs. Breakenridge, for day scholars and boarders, and in 1833 in The Niagara Gleaner Mrs. Breakenridge appeals to the public and "hopes for a continuance of public favor," and suggests "the additional claims of a long residence in the town, heavy misfortunes, a large family to maintain, and her experience for four years with Mrs. Fenwick." Some of the girls of that period 'had a knowledge of more than English, as it is mentioned somewhere that a Miss Birds- ley was a good Latin scholar, having been taught by a Mr. McPherson. There was a private school taught by Mr. A. McKee, who was a good classical scholar. Mrs. McKee, his wife, taught fancy-work. This was after the War of 1812 and it is believed it was held in the Stone Barracks, now the Masonic Hall. There was also a school taught by a Mr. John Wray, who is described by one who remembered him as "a little, old man." He died in 1846, having been clerk of St. Mark's Church for fifty years. There are frequent references to a school under the charge of St. Andrew's Church, taught in what is now the Sexton's house; thus in 1840 at the annual meeting of the congre gation, for instance, it is, " Eesolved, that the trustees and members of the kirk session be the committee for the management of the school kept by Mr. James Webster in 132 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA the schoolhouse on the church lots." It is seen in the story of St. Andrew's that this building, part of which remains, was called the schoolhouse in 1818 and was fitted up for Divine worship. In 1842, when some change took place in the school laws, efforts were made to comply with the law and yet be under the church trustees. A reminiscence of her school life, given by a colored woman, must not be forgotten. " The first school I went to was to a yellow man called Herbert Holmes — ' Hubbard Holmes ' our people called him. Oh, he was severe. They were then, you know. But he was a fine man and had been educated by a gentleman in Nova Scotia. He used to drill the boys and when holiday time came he would march us all to a grocery kept by a black woman and treat us all to bull's-eyes and gingerbread. I went to a black man upstairs in the schoolhouse of St. Andrew's Church. The room was full, full of children. The benches were slabs with the flat side up and the bark of the tree down, with round sticks put in slanting for legs. The children all studied aloud and the one that made the most noise was the best scholar in those days. Then I went to a Miss Brooks, from Oberlin College, in 1838-9. She was sickly and died of consumption. Oh, what hard times she had with some of the boys, bad, rough ones. But Herbert Holmes was a hero. He died in trying to save a black man from slavery." Mrs. J. G. Currie, born in Niagara in 1829, tells of attending a private school in 1834, taught by Mrs. Butler and Miss Christie. There was a Separate school at the north corner of the four acres on which the Eoman Catho lic church stands. This was closed in 1871 and all have attended the Public School since then. There were many good teachers, among whom may be mentioned Messrs. O'Leary, Carney, O'Halloran. And now we turn to what Ave can find of the backbone of our educational system, called first the Common School, now the Public School. The rules governing the Common School, 1817, have been quoted; and in The Gleaner for 1836 a letter strongly advocates the erection of a public schoolhouse, as the population of the town then was 1,300, and they had an able teacher in Mr. Thompson. In 1837 SCHOOLS, PUBLIC AND PEIVATE 133 a law had been passed for a school in each township. A certificate signed by Thomas Creen and Thomas Han cock, A.B., appears in The Gleaner: "We have great pleasure in testifying to the ability and fitness of the teacher of the Niagara Common School, Mr. David Thomp son. These are the classes: writing, arithmetic, grammar, four; orthography, reading, writing, eight; orthography, reading, six ; bookkeeping, two ; total, twenty-five ; and that Messrs. Heron, Kay and Varey have been duly elected trustees of the District Common School." The fees were after March 38th, reading and orthography 2s. 6d. (or 50 cents), with writing 62% cents, and with arithmetic 75 cents per month. A sparkle of color is given to these dry records, which pleases us much, when on February 23rd, 1827, an account is given of a collection that had been taken up from the pupils of Mr. Thompson's school in aid of the distressed Greeks; amount raised lis. IJ^d. This, it will be remembered, was the year of the battle of Nava- rino, and now after eighty-five years the generous deed of these Niagara school children is recalled as at a later day our contributions were sent to help the Armenians, barbar ously treated by the same unspeakable Turk. The teacher referred to was the same David Thompson who wrote the history of the War of 1813 — Captain Thompson, of the Eoyal Scots, who took part in the battle of Queenston Heights. He taught for many years in Niagara. In the Niagara Chronicle, January, 1847, it is told that "the census just taken gives a population of 3,058; there are 793 children between 5 and 15; of these, 300 attend the five common schools, respectively conducted by Mr. Shaw, Mr. Thompson, Miss Eedson, Miss M. A. Eedson and Mrs. Wilson. There is a dissenting common school established by our fellow-townsmen of the Eoman Catholic faith, the attendance of which must be large. In addition to these there are three institutions for a higher order of learning, namely, the District Grammar School, conducted by Dr. Whitelaw, assisted by Mr. Logan, and the classical school of Dr. Lundy, and the Ladies' School of the Misses Bur gess. Mr. James Dunn is now engaged as assistant to Mr. Shaw." He afterwards became principal. In later days the teachers of the public school have been, Messrs. Connor, s 134 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Thompson, Cork, Lyall, and the Misses Healey, Eedson, Tobias, 'Carnochan, Winterbottom, Lockwood, Hunter, Barron, Creed, and among the teachers of private schools, the Misses Crooks, Millard, Whitelaw, S. Eedson, Nesbitt, Clement, Servos. Many quaint, curious and amusing stories could be told of schoolday life, of the snow-balling matches between the Public and Separate Schools, not quite so exciting or so bloody as that described so graphically by Sir Walter Scott as taking place in the streets of Edinburgh with " Green Breeks." There were other contests between the town boys and the dock boys. It is recalled of one of the dock boys that when some town boys were sent out to bring him into school as a truant, the report came back to the master and the horrified pupils that he was standing in defiance of monitors and masters with a pile of brickbats to do execu tion on any assailing force. An account of some of the punishments of those days would make present pupils stare in wonder and amaze. It is recorded of one teacher of the town that he struck a boy on the head with a round ruler one inch in diameter. The boy fell to the floor insensible and was carried out to the snow to revive. It is pleasing to know that the big boys of the school did what so re joiced the heart of the honest Yorkshireman when Nicho las Nickleby so effectually " bate the schoolmeaster." The teacher then removed to Stamford, where his next feat as a punishment was to shut up a little girl in the oven, and he was sent away in consequence. As a contrast to this in another school a boy on returning home was asked the question so frequent in those days : " Were you whipped to-day?" " Yes, I was whipped but sister was kissed," was the answer. The teacher had left the room, and names being given of those who had spoken, instead of the dreaded tawse, he stooped down and kissed the rosy cheek of the astonished child. Although there were different attempts to provide a schoolhouse no permanent house was built till 1859, the schools having met in the Stone Barracks, in Eogers' brick building, in the old post-office, corner of Johnson and Gate Streets, and many other places. The present brick school- house was built in 1859. CHAPTEE XVIII. THE BOATS AND HARBOR AND DOCK COMPANY. The present boat landing is not the spot where vessels set sail or landed in the old days. This was at King's Wharf, near Navy Hall, or the old Perry. Many vessels were built there and still more at the present dock, and many vessels have been launched, watched by thousands of spectators. Sometimes the watch was protracted, and, indeed, the launch was put off till the next day. But many still remember the feeling of excitement when the vessel began to move and the prolonged cheer which greeted her leaving one element for another, and the words of Longfellow are recalled; " But see, she stirs, she starts, she moves. She seems to feel the thrill of life along her keel ; And spurning with her foot the ground With one exulting, joyous bound, She leaps into the ocean's arms." The following list of vessels built at Niagara, with dates, is found in that comprehensive work, John Eoss Eobert son's "Landmarks of Toronto": Charity, 1770, of 70 tons, merchant vessel; 'Vorh, 1793, wrecked 1808; Lord Nelson, 1811, belonged to Jas. and 'W. Crooks; May Flower, 1819; Alciope, 1838, of 450 tons, owned by Hamilton and Heron; Traveller, 1835, of 350 tons; Queen Victoria, 1837, wrecked; Gore, 1838; Sovereign, 1841; City of Toronto (first), 1840; Princess Royal, 1841; America (first), 1840; Chief Justice Robinson, 1843, of 400 tons; Queen City, 1843, burned; Eclipse, 1843; Admiral, 1843; Pass port and Magnet, 1847; Arabian, 1851; Zimmerman, 1854; Canada and America, 1854, of 700 tons; City of Toronto (second), 1855. Several pathetic stories cluster around some of these vessels. Some were wrecked, others burned and many noted persons lost their lives in conse quence. The Ontario, in 1780', sailing from Niagara to 135 136 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Oswego, 'Captain Andrews, E.N., having on board two com panies of the 8th King's Eegiment, was lost, and in all 172 persons perished. In. 1803 the sloop Lady Washing ton, built near Erie, Pa., in 1797, was brought on immense runners over the portage from Chippawa to Queenston and afterwards was lost on passage from Oswego to Niagara. Messrs. Dun and Boyd, of Niagara, were on board. Mr. Dun was the first minister of St. Andrew's, 1794-1797, and afterwards became a merchant. The Speedy furnishes 'another disaster — ^being lost in October, 1804, with twenty on board, among them Mr. Justice Cochrane, E. J. Gray, Solicitor- General, and Angus Mac donell, Advocate. The first steamboat on Lake Ontario was the Frontenac, of Kingston, 1815, owned by E. Hamilton, which was burnt on the lake near Niagara. The Queenston was built at Queenston by Hon. E. Hamilton in 1824. From an advertisement in 1821 we learn that the " Richmond Packet runs between York and Niagara, Edward Gates, commodious apartments for ladies and gentlemen. A gun to be fired one hour before sailing, and on arrival." In 1828 there was an unsuccessful attempt to launch the Alciope. It was a cold day, but many spectators came, some from York. Next day the attempt was still unsuccessful. " She moved to the water's edge, but lies fastened to the bank." In contrast to the above a 'successful launch seems to have given rise to lofty flights on the part of the reporter. For instance, the " Launch of the George Canning at 4 o'clock. She glided most majestically from the stocks to the noble waters of Niagara and floated proudly on its bosom. She is an elegant vessel, well worthy to bear a name dear to 'Canada and imperishable in the annals of British history." In 1830 there were four steamers run ning from Niagara, namely, the Canada, Niagara, Queens ton and Alciope. The Niagara Harbor and Dock Company was formed in 1831, as is shown by a map. The marsh in front of the town was to be filled in, excavations made for the "slip," a foundry built, and wharf constructed. From different travellers who visited Niagara at this time and by the aid of old newspapers we obtain information; THE BOATS AND HAEBOE 137 " November, 1832, the Dock Company is proceeding with great spirit and employing all hands that offer. A part of the marsh has been surrounded with a bank of clay from the high ground and the water pumped out with a steam engine; a basin is thus formed to contain a number of vessels and is already excavated several feet below the water in the river and will be a safe place for vessels in the winter. This will be a benefit to this delightful town. The marsh, which was a nuisance, will be made useful, the remainder, a fine dry plain, being used to build on." " 1833, The Niagara H. & D. Co. pays out £300 weekly." July 27th, 1833 ; "The Union Jack was displayed on the engine house flagstaff', a number of guns fired in com memorating the lower end of the ways for hauling up vessels being laid down. The depth of excavation is eighteen feet lower than the water in the river. Men are employed in planking up its sides." On April 33rd, 1831, the Directors of the Harbor and Dock Company were Eobt. Dickson, Thomas McCormick, E. Melville, Samuel Street, James Lockhart, L. Clement and J. Wagstaff. The president was Eobert Dickson. The names of those who petitioned to form a joint stock company are given in the Act as James Muirhead, Eobert Dickson, Thomas Butler, Daniel MacDougal, Ealph Mor- den Crysler, William Duff Miller, Lewis Clement, John Crooks, Thomas McCormick, James Lockhart, Eobert Kay and others of the town and neighborhood. In 1833 an address was presented to H. J. Boulton on going to England thanking him for his exertions in pro curing the charter for the Harbor and Dock 'Company, the Bill for the Lateral Cut, and an Act for payment of war losses. The deputation met at Navy Hall on the arrival of the Canada from York. The Dock Company hoisted the Union Jack on the engine-house and fired a salute of cannon. They then walked up to Miller's Coffee House, where a collation was served. The address was read by T. Butler. The Honorable John Hamilton, honorable by name and by nature, has been called the father of the marine of Lake Ontario, and owned many vessels, among them the Great Britain, built at Prescott in 1838, and the 138 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Queenston, built at Queenston in 1824. The steamer United Kingdom, his property, left Niagara on her first trip in May, 1833. On December 31st, 1833, the advertisement of the Harbor and Dock Company, signed James Lock hart, Secretary, says they have, at considerable ex pense, constructed a railway for hauling up steam vessels 'and others for repair, and gives charges per day for stay. The steamer Canada was hauled up for repairs; forty acres have been reclaimed by the company. Mrs. Jameson, in her "Summer Eambles," in 1838, says; "The chief proprietor at the dockyards is Captain Mel ville, a public-spirited, good-natured gentleman. Twenty thousand pounds has been expended on the works, and there are now fifty workmen. A steamer was building, the brass work and castings all being of the first order." W. H. Smith, gazetteer, tells in 1848, that 150 to 350 hands are employed, and gives a list of vessels built here between 1833 and 1845, namely, the steamboats Traveller, Experi ment, Queen, Gore, City of Toronto, Princess Royal. America, Chief Justice Robinson, Admiral, Eclipse; pro pellers Adventure, Beagle, Traveller; schooners Jessie Woods, Princess, Fanny, Toronto, Sovereign, Minos, Emer ald, London, Dart, Oak, Gem, Shamrock, Ann, Wm. Cay ley, Shannon, Clyde, Shamrock, and eighteen barges, all of which gives us a picture of growth in the town. In September, 1833, a launch is described, interesting to us as bringing up the name of our late beloved queen : "Launched on this river to-day, a fine new schooner, built by a Com pany, Jas. Lockhart agent, 75 feet long, 33 feet beam, depth 8 feet. She glided beautifully into her native ele ment and was christened by Miss Louisa Fisher, of Mont real, and received the name of the Princess Victoria, the presumptive heiress of the British throne. A very hand some figure-head on the bow, it is said, resembles the young princess. She was taken into the dock to be rigged, the first vessel that has entered this work." An old account book, which some would think unpromis ing material for historical information, throws additional light. It is that of John Fraser, a sail maker, who seems to have done an extensive business in making and mending sails from 1839 to 1851. The names of Captains Eichard- THE BOATS AND HAEBOE 139 son, Gordon and Dick occur, as also Andrew Heron and Jas. Lockhart. The names of some vessels occur frequently ; these must have met with storms to destroy their sails: Princess, Sovereign, Canada, Gore, Perseverance, Transit, Ontario, Burlington, Superior, Niagara, Princess Royal, America, City of Toronto, Chief Justice, Admiral, Indus try, Arabian, Massachusetts, Ploughboy, and Fanny. The Chief Justice Robinson had a bow of peculiar construc tion, an enormous cutwater like a double furrowed plough to cut through the ice, as she ran all winter. In a bill of that date which has been preserved, is an advertisement of a temperance excursion, presenting a woodcut of the City of Toronto, 1846, 'Captain Dick, and the model of the hull is in existence, long used as a clock bracket by Edward Dixon. July 6th, 1847. " On Saturday last Cap tain Sutherland's new iron steamer was launched in fine style and was christened the Magnet. The large number of spectators had the opportunity of viewing Her Majesty's war steamer, Cherokee, which was lying at anchor. The steamers Admiral and Telegraph were at the wharf also." There are some stories which fioat about still of the cap tains of these vessels, many of them genial, whole-souled men and able seamen. The captain of the Magnet was chief officer of the Royal William, the first vessel which crossed the Atlantic with steam all the way. The honor has been claimed for other vessels, but is justly due to our Canadian steamer, which made the trip in 1833 in nineteen days. A speech of 'Captain H. Eichardson is recorded regarding Governor Peregrine Maitland : " As long as I command the Canada and have a rag of color to hoist, my proudest day will be when it floats at her mast head indicative of the presence and commands of the repre sentative of my king." Of him also it is told that when the slave Moseby was to be returned to the United States^ he said, " Never shall the vessel I command be used to return a fugitive to slavery." Captain Dick was another fine example of a commander, and Captain Milloy was the beau ideal of a sailor, a kind, genial gentleman. Of later vessels many still remember the night of the 31st of August, 1863, when the Zimmerman was burned at the wharf, and the weird sound of the steam escaping, which 140 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Dr. Scadding has compared to the wail of a lost spirit. Poor Patrick Lawless, the watchman, perished in the flames. The Cibola, burnt at Lewiston wharf, furnishes another tragedy, as a fireman sleeping on board found his way of escape cut off by the flames and the horrified spec tators saw him looking out from a porthole, crying vainly for help. The Chicora, that staunch and tried old steamer, was built at Liverpool for a Confederate blockade runner in 1864. After she had been used in this capacity, at the close of the war she was taken to Lake Superior, and to get through the locks of the Welland Canal, was cut in two, thirty feet taken out, then was joined together. Since she was returned to Lake Ontario she has sailed. between Toronto and Niagara till 1913. A curious relic of her early history may yet be seen on her bell, which is stamped with the motto " Letter B " (Let her be). The Peerless, built on the Clyde, 'and the work finished at Niagara, which sailed between Toronto and Queenston, afterwards became an ocean steamer and her name was changed to the America. 'She was wrecked off Cape Hat- teras. The City of Toronto, built for Capt. Milloy imme diately after the burning of the Zimmerman, was burned at Port Dalhousie. The present vessels of the Niagara Navigation Com pany are peculiar in this, that the names all end in the letter " A," as Chicora, Corona, Chippewa, Cayuga, and also the Cibola, which was burned at Lewiston. On the large warehouse still standing at the dock may be seen a reminder of the vessels in early years, as on the doors appear in faded letters the words Great Britain ; William IV.; St. George; United Kingdom; Cobourg; Commodore Barrie; Canada; Schooners; showing the place allotted for storage for each of these vessels. CHAPTEE XIX. ASSEMBLIES, BALLS AND CELEBRATIONS. On the 4th of June, 1793, 'Simcoe held a levee at Navy Hall and in the evening gave a ball. Dancing took place from 7 to 11 o'clock, then supper followed. Twenty handsome ladies and sixty gentlemen were present. In 1797, a ball and supper was given by volunteers to Mrs. Miles Macdonell, to which all the ladies and gentlemen with in thirty miles were invited, as we find stated in a letter of Elmsley. An advertisement in 1797 tells of a dancing assembly held on St. Andrew's Night. In 1799 Hon. E. Hamilton gave a most elegant dinner, to which thirty Scot tish gentlemen and twelve others sat down. " No dinner given in Canada has been equal." In the papers of these days are found the following notices : 1800. — Next Newark Assembly, January 18th, at the Yellow House ; subscribers to pay $3. 1801. — First Niagara Assembly at the Yellow House. Tickets may be had from Markle and Hamilton, or the managers. 1803. — A ball at Eobert Hamilton's on the Queen's birthday. 1807. — " The Lieutenant-Governor will hold a levee at the Commissariat Officers' Quarters at Niagara on the 4th of June. There will be a ball and supper at the 'Council House for such ladies and gentlemen as have been pre sented to the Lieut.-Governor and Mrs. Gore." In a letter in the Upper Canada Gazette of June 13th, the ball is described, "Sixteen hundred militia were in a line on the plains. The ball commenced at 8 p.m. in the Council House. A temporary building was connected with this for supper. Two hundred sat down in a room eighty feet long. Mrs. Gore and the Hon. E. Hamilton led off the dance. Fifty couples were on the fioor till one o'clock, then supper was served. Everything rare and good was 141 143 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA there, and good champagne and burgundy, etc. Dancing was kept up till daylight. Governor Gore dined afterwards with the Agricultural Society at the Hon. E. Hamilton's, where a sumptuous banquet was provided." " In 1817 the officers of the 70th Eegiment gave a dinner, ball and supper to a large party in their mess room. Dancing was kept up till five in the morning." In 1830, a Dancing Academy was conducted at J. Miller's Ball Eoom. This was called the Stone Barracks, now the Masonic Hall. In 1833, an advertisement in The Gleaner says : " The next Assem bly will take place at Crysler's Hotel on Monday evening, March 10th. Signed, Eobert Dickson, Chas. Eichardson, John 'Claus, Esqs., Managers." In 1811, a letter to Gen eral Brock from Colonel Kempt, Quebec, says ; " I have just received a long letter from Mrs. Murray, giving me an account of a splendid ball given by you to the beau monde of Niagara and its vicinity, and the manner in which she speaks of your liberality and hospitality reminds me of the many pleasant hours I have passed under your roof. We have no such parties now." In a private journal of General Lincoln, who with Beverley Eandolph and Tim othy Pickering, Commissioners, came to treat with Indians at Niagara, where they were detained some time, he writes of the ball of the 4th of June, 1793, the King's birthday; " The music and dancing was good, everything was con ducted with propriety. 'What excited the best feelings of the heart was the ease and affection with which the ladies met each other, although there were a number present whose mothers sprang from the aborigines of the country. They appeared as well dressed as the company in general and intermixed with them in a manner which evinced at once the dignity of their own minds and the good sense of others. These ladies possessed great ingenuity and indus try and deserve great merit for the education they have received, owing principally to their own industry, as their father. Sir Wm. Johnson, was dead. Their mother was the noted Mohawk princess, Molly Brant, sister of Captain Joseph Brant." In The Gleaner for 1826 is described the Burns' celebra tion, " at which forty sat down to a sumptuous banquet." James Muirhead and Doctor Hamilton did the honors. ASSEMBLIES, BALLS AND CELBBEATIONS 143 After the cloth was removed the following toasts were drunk, the music being furnished by the band of the 76th Eegiment: (1) To the memory of Eobert Burns, Tune, "I'm wearin' awa', Jean"; (2) The King, Four Times Pour," " God Save the King "; (3) The Land of Cakes, "Kail Brose"; (4) Eose, Shamrock and Thistle, "All who of Britain bear the name"; (5) Earl of Dal housie, "British Grenadiers"; (6) Sir Peregrine Mait land, "British Grenadiers"; (7) Scotch bairns, Scotch wives and all who lie in Scotchmen's arms, " Come under my plaidie"; (8) Wooden walls of Great Britain, "Eule Britannia"; (9) Duke of York and the Army, "Duke of York"; (10) Lady Sarah Maitland and Canadian Pair, "Green grow the rashes, 0"; (11) The Great Unknown, "A man's a man for a' that"; (12) Washington Irving, "White Cockade"; (13) The Greek Cause, "Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled." Some of the true sons of Cale donia continued till 'an early hour next morning. It is not at all likely fhat these toasts were drunk in water as would probably be the case at the present day. The three last toasts, particularly, are suggestive of that part of the century. The authorship of the Waverley novels was openly acknowledged a few months later at a public dinner, when Scott found himself under a load of debt which he nobly strove to discharge by herculean exertions. Washing ton Irving was his friend and Lord Byron had died in Greece helping those who were striving for independence, not gained till the battle of Navarino in 1827. Sir Pere grine Maitland and Lady Sarah Maitland had their resi dence nearby. There have been several remarkable meetings, celebra tions and gatherings both in early times and down to present days. At a procession from Government House across the Common on the 16th of October, 1813, at the first funeral of General Brock, soldiers of the 41st, the militia, and two hundred Indians, formed a street through which the cortege with the bodies of the two heroes who had given their lives for their country pa.ssed. This ex tended all the way to Fort George, where they were buried. In 1830, on May 18th, when George IV. came to the throne, a procession was formed at the Court House (now 144 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA the Western Home) at twelve o'clock. " The garrison had commenced firing minute guns at 10.30. The High Sher iff proclaimed George IV. King, which was greeted by six cheers from militia and civilians. , The procession then moved in regular formation through the town in the fol lowing order : Two trumpeters on horseback. Colonel John son, military commandant, staff officers, band of music, guard of the 68th Eegiment, Deputy Sheriff on horseback (E. Leonard), councillors, magistrates, officers of the court, constables, and others. Proclamation was made in differ ent parts of the town, and a royal salute was fired from the Garrison, and the day ended with the greatest joy and harmony." Four years after this another procession of a different kind left the town. On October 13th, 1834, the rein terment of General Brock took place at Queenston Heights, a monument having been erected there. The weather was fine and a large concourse of people had assembled from all parts of the country. The hearse, covered by black cloth, was drawn by four black horses with black coachmen. The First and Fourth Eegiments of Lincoln Militia, 76th Eegiment, and Eoyal Artillery, Indian chiefs, citizens, with a long cavalcade of horsemen and carriages, three hundred vehicles, five persons in each, made up the procession, this taking three hours to reach the Heights. There were 2,400 troops and 8,000 civilians present at the monument. A solemn pause occurred when the spot was reached where Brock fell. Prom the Heights the lengthened column winding slowly up the steep ascent gave a fine effect, especially when surrounded by such romantic scenery. The political meeting in 1832 at the Court House with the rival meetings in the open air and in the building with all the ill-feeling thus roused, must have been an e.xciting scene. The 30 th of July, 1840, saw another gathering. This time the procession was on the water as well as the land. The monument of 1824 having been shattered by the deed of the miscreant Lett, a monster meeting was held at Queenston Heights. Steam vessels left Kingston, Cobourg, Hamilton and Toronto, and reaching the mouth of the ASSEMBLIES, BALLS AND CELBBEATIONS 145 river about ten o'clock, formed a line and ascended the river with the Government steamer, containing Sir George Arthur and staff, leading the way. A long procession of Eoyal Artillery, 1st Dragoon Guards, with their glitter ing helmets, 93rd Highlanders in full costume, old vet erans, Indians, and a vast concourse of people proceeded on shore. The cheers of those on the ships were replied to by cheers from land. Eleven resolutions were passed, and as this gave opportunity to the mover and seconder to speak, it may be imagined that it was evening before the twenty-two speeches were made, all showing the intense love and admiration felt for General Brock. Of a very different nature was the next celebration, that of the taking of Sebastopol, October 3rd, 1853. The news came at six o'clock; extras were sent out from The Mail office to eager crowds, while the church bells were ringing and the Niagara band hastily turned out and an impromptu bonfire was lit on the common. The next day flags were raised on the court house, churches and the vessels in the harbor. A subscription was taken up for a celebration in the evening, which included a bonfire, fireworks, torchlight processions, three cheers at the court house, and three times three for the Queen, Emperor and allied army. Many of the crowd remained till morning, singing, danc ing and firing cannon. In the year 1860 a game of lacrosse, or, as called by the Indians themselves "bagataway," was played on the common between the Mohawks and Senecas, the former of Grand Eiver, the latter from New York State. An im mense number of Indians, men, women and children, accom panied them. Thfe game lasted for many hours, thousands of spectators eagerly watching the contest, which was fin ally won by the Senecas. Many grim memories are evoked by this game, for when Pontiac formed the plan of driving out the British, the first step was the taking of ten forts, seven of which were actually gained. At Michillimaekinac the Indians gained entrance by playing a game of lacrosse, throwing the ball purposely over the wall, and the senti nels, who were eagerly watching the game, gave entrance. The Indian women stood near with tomahawks under their Idankets, which they handed to the horde of enter- 11 146 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA ing players, and a fearful massacre ensued. The same plan was tried at Detroit and only failed from an Indian girl disclosing it to Gladwyn, the young commander. In the last twenty years Niagara has been the scene of no less than six centennials — that of the landing of the United Empire Loyalists, 1784, the formation of the Province and the first Parliament, 1792, the organization of St Mark's congregation, 1792, the building of St. Andrew's Church, 1794, the centennial of the High School, then called the Grammar School, the fourth in date in the Province, 1808, and lastly, the formation of the Niagara Light Dragoons, 1812. On August 11th, 1884, the commemoration of the com ing of the United Empire Loyalists was held. A platform was erected on the 'Common, and many descendants of the Loyalists were present. Thirty chiefs from Grand Eiver, with their flags and band of music, and others from the Bay of Quinte also came. Eloquent speeches were made by Lieutenant-Governor Eobinson, 'Colonel Denison, Sena tor Plumb, Wm. Kirby, Chief Hill, Chief Smith, Wm. Hamilton Merritt, Bishop Puller, and others. Eobert N. Ball was chairman, being a descendant of Jacob Ball, who came in 1780. A war dance was performed by the Indians at the close of the meeting. At the celebration in 1892, held at Fort George and in the town park, Lieutenant-Governor Fitzpatrick spoke, as also did Sir Oliver Mowat, the Premier of Ontario. The other centennials are mentioned on other pages. Hon. John Simpson. JnDas Campbell. R.iLFE Clench. Jas. M. Dunn, LL.B. Principal, High School. REPRESENTATIVE MEN. An Editor and M.P., a Judge, a Judge and Man of Affairs, a Teacher. CHAPTEE XX. GROWTH OF THE TOWN AND CHANGES. Early travellers speak of the town as having, in its first decade, five hundred inhabitants. When it was burned in 1813 it is said there were five hundred people left home less. This might perhaps represent 800, counting the men serving in the militia, those made prisoners and sent away, and those who had removed to safer quarters before or after the Americans took possession. In 1833 there was a population of 1,086. From 1832 to 1848 was the period of greatest growth and population, from the Harbor and Dock 'Company employing so many men in boat building. We find in descriptive works that Niagara is credited with a population of 4,000, but in the census return taken in the town in 1847 there was shown a population of 3,058, the school population being 792 ; but this may or may not include the militia stationed here. In an address presented to Doctor McMurray, and the reply, there is a slight sketch of changes in the town since his coming in 1857. " The town was then in a prosperous condition, several manufac tories employed hundreds of artisans. Niagara was then the county town, but now, in 1873, the manufactories have collapsed, fires have devastated the business localities, Nia gara has ceased to be the county town, hundreds of the population have migrated, but the prospects of summer visitors taking up their residence and the steel factory being opened, gives hopes of employment to many." It is indeed remarkable how many industries have closed their doors, involving many in loss. The failure of the ship-building company, car factory, knitting factory, tannery, steel works, with the removal of troops, and the fact of Niagara ceasing to be the county town and the con sequent removal of the officials, had an effect in checking advancement. Prom old papers are gleaned many curious items during the twenties. In 1822 Eobert Gourlay states that peaches 147 148 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA flourish in Niagara, but this, of course, must have been in 1818 and 1819 while he was there. In 1835 J. Breaken ridge writes to Doctor Baldwin that he has agreed to buy a pianoforte from Mrs. Eoss, for £67 15s. 8d., and music of the value of £7 10s. In 1836 the schooner Michigan was sent over the falls with different animals on board. Thirty thousand people were present as spectators. Strange to say, the court adjourned at Niagara to see the sight. On October 13th, 14th, and 15th of that year there was surprisingly hot weather, when the thermometer stood at 94, 85, and 93 degrees. In 1830 John Graham and John Martindale, of Niagara brewery, advertised for twenty thousand bushels of barley. The Gleaner, in 1833, in speaking of the growth of the town, says :"The settlement began in 1784. The town and frontier was desolated in 1813, yet now, where all was a wilderness forty years ago, the town contains 1,500 souls, has many retail stores and eight wholesale stores." In 1830 a board of directors was appointed from the Bank of Upper 'Canada in town, with Thomas McCormick as banker. At the same time the Commercial Bank had an office in town, with James Lockhart agent. In 1833 there was a meeting of inhabitants to take necessary steps to construct a railway between Niagara and Lake Erie. James Muirhead was chairman, and the resolutions were moved and seconded by the following gentlemen: E. C. Campbell, Dr. Telfer, T. McCormick, D. McDougal, E. Melville, James Lockhart, W. D. Miller, William Clarke, J. Stocking and L. 'Clement. Frequent references are made to the abundance of fish caught. In December, 1833, eighteen seines were going, and each haul brought in from two hundred to five hun dred fine whitefish. In 1847 reference is made to the typhus fever brought by emigrants from Ireland. Fortunately there were few cases in the town, but we to-day know from other sources that there were forty deaths among the fever-stricken in the hospital provided. The telegraph was established to Queens ton and a letter shows the amount paid out personally by Judge Campbell to keep the office open. In 1849 there is an account of a bear killed at John W. Ball's. GEOWTH OF THE TOWN 149 On April 18th, 1855, a remarkable tornado at seven in the morning did considerable damage, but going in a slant ing line, left untouched everything else but the places mentioned. The roof was taken off St. Andrew's Church, and the next thing struck was a daguerreotype car, standing in what is now the park, which had its contents scattered as far as the common. The next leap made was to the car works at the dock, two of the buildings being levelled to the ground. The buildings were two hundred feet by seventy feet in size and the loss £10,000. This happened on a fast-day proclaimed by the Government, or one hundred workmen would probably have been killed. In 1847 and 1848 we are told of flocks of pigeons in such numbers that the light was obscured. On a Sunday in March a flock described as a mile wide and one hun dred and sixty miles long, took over four hours, from 7.30 to 13 o'clock noon, to fly over the tovm.. Sometimes they flew so low that they were killed by the boys with clubs. Eemarkable tales are told of the number killed with one shot, ranging from seven to forty. At a luncheon at the launch of the Canada in July, 1854, pigeon pie was much in evidence. For many years these flights of pigeons have not been seen. CHAPTEE XXI. THE MAYORS OF NIAGARA AND THE TOWN RECORDS. As mentioned previously, the town and township held their meetings together from 1793 to 1837, but in 1845 the town was set apart as a municipality on May 6th, and the record of 1846 calls it the second year of incorporation. Instead of Mayor and Council as now, there was a Board of Police of five members; at the meeting on May 6th, 1845, the members were Andrew Heron, Jr., Alex. C. Ham ilton, James Harvey, Eichard Wagstaff and Eichard Miller, Esqs. The meeting ^^'as held in the council room; after taking the oath of office they elected Eichard Miller as president. Afterwards Isaac H. Johnson was chosen town clerk; the treasurer was Thomas McCormick; the bailiffs and constables were Nicholas Wall, John Nesbit, Thomas Whitten, George Foley and Patrick Finn; the assessors were James Blain, John Swinton and Lewis Clement. In 1846 A. C. Hamilton was president, John Simpson held the office in 1847 and 1848, and Alexander Davidson in 1849 ; in 1850 he became the first mayor. In 1847 the Board of Police was asked by the Government to form itself into a Board of Health, to provide for the wants of the fever-stricken immigrants. The members that year were John Simpson, Andrew Heron, Thomas McCormick, James Boulton and A. Davidson. The meetings of the Board of Police seem to have been very frequent. The arrangements made for providing plank sidewalks seem very economical and bring up names and residences almost forgotten : " On June 13th, ordered that the planking and crossways mentioned be done as soon as convenient: From Whan's corner to Howard's, from Vary's to Christie's, from Clench's corner to Burk's, from the British Hotel to George Winterbottom's, from Harring ton's hotel to Mr. Cameron's, from Dr. 'Whitelaw's to Downs & Co. The above planking to be four feet wide; 150 THE OLD JAIL AND COURT HOUSE. THE WESTERN HOME, FORMERLY THE OLD JAIL AND COURT HOUSE. THE MAYOES OF NIAGAEA 151 crossings from MoCormick's to the dock, a plank walk from Wagstaff's corner to Miller and Boomer's office ; from Down's corner to Whan & McLean's, from Christie's corner to Cook's, from British Hotel to 'Shillitoe's corner, from McMuUen's corner to Dr. Whitelaw's, from David Lock- hart's corner to Miss Bedson's school Planking two feet wide to be done in Irishtown, and two feet in width from James Boulton's to corner opposite John Hall's, with a sidewalk the same in width past Mr. Green's to the Scotch church, crossing from Morley's corner to Mrs. Clench's, planking from that leading to the Methodist church, to Thompson's schoolhouse, four feet in width." At a later meeting it was moved that B. Bonner be appointed market clerk, high bailiff, bell ringer, inspector of chimneys and poundkeeper, at a salary of £75 a year. One of the council objected to this munificent salary as an unnecessary expenditure of the public funds. In 1846 Alexander Chetwood Hamilton was chosen pre sident of the Board, and they proceeded to advertise for plans, etc., for a court house and market house, the cost not to exceed £3,000; but we find that the building cost twice that modest sum. Mr. John Simpson was the third president of the Board and held the office the next year also, and Alexander Davidson the following year; this paved the way for his being chosen the first mayor in January, 1850'. Niagara was regularly incorporated as a town with five wards — St. Lawrence, St. George, St. David, St. Patrick and St. Andrew — each returning three councillors, the mayor being selected from among themselves; but since 1860 there are but three wards — Eastern, Centre, and Western — each returning two councillors, the mayor and reeve being elected by the vote of the people. In 1847 a census of the town gave a population of 3,058. An item in a Niagara newspaper of 1848 recalls days of excitement in the town, in which a reward of fifty dollars is offered by the council for the discovery of the body of John McClymont, stolen from St. Andrew's graveyard. This was supposed to be done by two young medical stu dents. The town was searched and excitement rose high, 153 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA which was only allayed by finding that the body had been returned over the graveyard fence at night. From the records many well-nigh forgotten incidents are gleaned. The first reference to the park occurs in 1851 ; and it is referred to again in 1853, when the four acres belonging to the Ordnance Department in front of Barr's Arcade are asked for. A poster of 1851 is in existence containing eighteen regu lations for the good of the town, signed by George Boomer, mayor, being a by-law of the town conncil, commencing, " Whereas it is expedient to make certain by-laws for the regulation and good government of the town of Niagara, be it therefore enacted that it shall not be lawful for any person to be seen in the streets of Niagara in a state of drunkenness, neither shall it be lawful for any person to swear or use obscene language, neither shall it be lawful to abuse or ill-treat any animal on the public streets, neither shall it be lawful to fire a gun or set off any squibs or firecrackers within the said town," etc. The observance of some of these regulations at the present time would be conducive to law, order and humanity. The first mayor was Alexander Davidson, mentioned in other papers as postmajster, editor of the Mail, and author of the Canada Spelling Book. This was in 1850'. His successor was Geo. Boomer, in 1851, and the next, 1852-6, John Simpson, editor of the Chronicle, afterwards member of Parliament and Deputy Assistant Auditor-General. His name appears in 1847 as president of the Board of Police and Board of Health. J. M. Lawder became mayor in 1857 ; he afterwards was made judge of the county of Lin coln. L. M. Mercer followed in 1858; F. A. B. Clench, 1859-60; Dr. E. M. Wilson, 1861-2; Henry Paffard, 1863- 74; John Bishop, 1875; H. Paffard, 1876-80; S. H. Fol lett, 1881-3; W. 'Winterbottom, 1883 (perhaps the youngest mayor ever elected) ; H. A. Garrett, 1884-5 ; W. A. Milloy, another youthful mayor, 1886-7; H. Paffard, 1888-96; T. P. Best, 1897-1901; James Aikens, 1903-3; William Miller, 1904-5; Dr. Anderson, 1906; J. de W. Eandall, 1907-9; James Aikins, 1910-11; J. de W. Eandall, 1913-3. Mr. H. Paffard has enjoyed the unique honor of being mayor of the town for twenty-six years. To his energy, THE MAYOES OP NIAGAEA 153 good taste and persistence is due our beautiful town park, and also the shady streets, with their beautiful elms, maples and lindens, which add so much to the beauty of the town. It was not without opposition that this was done. I remember his telling me that the first grant givep for purchasing trees was only twenty-five dollars. His skill as a horticulturist, as exemplified in his garden, with its choice grapes and peaches, and even figs grown in the open air, was a warrant for this matter being entrusted to his good taste. The court house was built in 1847 ; a statement in 1853 gives the money expended on it as £6,000, and £1,000 on the Ten Mile Creek road, £600 on macadamizing the roads and placing eight miles of plank walks in the town. A reference to the Erie and Ontario Eailway occurs in 1852. Sir Francis Hincks was then the member of Parliament for Niagara. From 1845 to 1856 the records are in the clear, almost copperplate, writing of I. H. Johnson, evidently done with a quill pen. This period of eleven years is surpassed by that from 1856 to 1880', the records being in the distinct writing of John Eogers. The next town clerk was Daniel Servos, from 1880 to 1889 (the records also well kept), who was succeeded by Eussell Wilkinson, 1889 to 1898. Mr. Wilkinson was a skilled draughtsman, and the records in his handwriting are remarkably clear. The next town clerk was J. H. Burns, 1898 to 1910, who was succeeded by W. B. Lyall. The office of reeve has been held by L. W. Mercer, Wil liam Kirby, S. H. Follett, Thomas Eowland, T. P. Blain, John Bishop, W. H. J. Evans, J. F. Greene, James Aikins, and that of chief constable by Bever Bonner, 1845 to 1865 ; Eobert Pizette, 1866 to 1875; William Curtis, 1875-86; and E. Eeid for a period of twenty-six years, from 1886 to 1912. The price of bread was at first regulated by the Council ; very often it was sixpence the four-pound loaf, but in 1855 it was tenpence, 'as the price of flour was eight dollars a barrel. In 1847 there is a reference to sick immigrants; Dr. Eolls and Dr. Melville waited on them; the money of 154 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA deceased immigrants was returned to the Inspector- General. In 1854, when the Clergy Eeserve question was settled, a statement is given that £297,324 was to be divided for educational purposes among the municipalities. The popu lation of the town was then 3,340 by the last census; that of Upper Canada being 952,004, the proportion to the town being £1,040. This statement is signed by John Simp son, L. W. Mercer, John Powell and Andrew Heron. In 1856 the lamented decease of the town clerk, I. H. Johnson, is referred to, and in 1857 a complimentary resolution appears to John Simpson on his retirement. In this year the question of the change of county town to St. Catharines came up, opposed by J. C. Morrison, the member for Niagara, and the question loomed up of the debt of the town ; from this ensued a very troublous period for the Town Council, and this fills numerous pages of the minutes for many years, all resulting from the liberality of the Consolidated Municipal Loan Fund in lending money, many municipalities being in the same position, and causing much discussion in the Legislature before relief was granted. A memorial was sent to the Legislative Coun cil re the Erie and Ontario Eailroad. The subscribed stock was £15,000, and there was lent to the company £55,000; the whole, now £70,000, was borrowed from the Consoli dated Municipal Loan Fund. The memorial prays for relief, as the railroad is unproductive. In 1860 there is a resolution of sympathy on the death of Judge Campbell, and on August 14th an address to the Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward VII., on his visit to Niagara; a reference was made in it to the visit of his grandfather the Duke of Kent sixty-eight years ago. In the minutes was also a reference to the ladies and gentle men who had helped in the erection and decoration of the arches. These were troublous times, as through the loss from the change of the county town, the difficulty with the rail road, the arrears due the Government, the different agree ments with W. A. Thomson, lawyers' opinions, and appeals to Legislature, the town officials had no sinecure. Col. Macdougal. Capt. D. Milloi. Hbnet PArrABD, Mayor. Majob Hisoott, M.P.P. REPRESENTATIVE MEN. A Soldier, a Sailor, a Mayor, a, Fruit-Grower and M.P.P. THE MAYOES OF NIAGAEA 155 In 1863, Mr. Henry Paffard became mayor, which office he held at that time consecutively for twelve years. In 1865 an attempt was made to obtain compensation for the outlay for the court house, on which $50,000 had been expended. Eventually as we follow the minutes dur ing the following years we find the sum of $8,000 was granted, and of this $5,000 was to be invested in the Queen's Eoyal Hotel should $20,000 be subscribed, and fin ally there was presented to Captain Dick, the proprietor, the whole $8,0'00. In the same year, 1865, Mr. Kirby, the reeve, went to Quebec to present a petition to the Legis lative Assembly regarding the claim of the town for com pensation. An entirely different subject gives relief to these diffi cult matters, as reference is made to two hundred orna mental trees being planted on the streets, and in 1866 a plan was drawn up for planting the park with trees, the committee being the mayor, Messrs. Follett, Kirby, Daly and Cathline. An effort was made in 1867 to obtain the Engineers' quarters as the site for a hotel. Thanks are rendered to Angus Morrison, W. Kirby and H. Paffard for help given in the late county town arbitration. Vari ous proposals seem to have been made with regard to the old jail and the present court house; the first was offered for sale to the Freemasons, and the court house and three acres of land to Trinity College. In 1869 the jail was bought by Miss Eye, and has since then been called the Western Home ; it sheltered over five thousand of the waifs and strays of the old land, for whom homes have later been provided. In 1870, and at different later dates, applications were made to the Government for the strip of land from the Hotel to Fort Mississauga for park purposes. A statement drawn up by the mayor, in 1876, of the settlement with the Government, gives a clear idea of the state of affairs concerning the loan. Many municipalities were heavily in debt to the Government, having borrowed for purposes which turned out disastrously, and the interest accumulating, the debt became enormously increased ; fears were expressed by the property-holders that a forced sale might be held. One municipality had borrowed $38'0,00'0 156 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA in 1854; in 1873 the principal and interest amounted to $619,000. In the case of Niagara, money had been bor rowed to invest in the Erie and Ontario Eailway, which became insolvent, and the railway was sold to W. A. Thom son for $15,000 cash and a mortgage of $45,000. An Act had been passed in 1874 to relieve Niagara on payment of $14,000. The whole difficulty takes up many pages of the records ; the statement of the m'ayor, the opinion of Hon. Stephen Eichards, the speeches at public meetings of Hon. W. H. Dickson and Hon. J. B. Plumb are referred to, and the opposition of Mr. Jos. Kerby, but the matter was happily settled. In 1878 the railroad was transferred to the Canada Southern, to be extended to Port Erie. In 1880 five hundred trees were planted to make an avenue across the common. In 1885 a bonus was granted to the Fort George Assembly or Chautauqua or Niagara Assembly and electric lights were installed, supplied by the Assembly. Port Mississauga was repaired by the Gov ernment and a caretaker's house built, the tovsm under taking to supply a caretaker. In 1889 the question of waterworks for the town was. discussed and $30,000 was ordered to be borrowed and electric lights to be supplied to the camp. In 1893 the Heisler system of electric lights was adopted. Mr. W. H. J. Evans, then reeve, took great interest in the question and strongly advocated the instal lation. The mayor at that time was Henry Paffard. The placing of cement pavements through the town was carried out during the mayoralty of J. de W. Eandall, in 1910-11, J. P. Greene being reeve, and also the second electric light system from Niagara Palls power. It was remarked at the time of the death of T. P. Best in 1912 that never during the period of sixty-two years had a mayor died in office. His long service in the Council and as mayor had given him great skill in municipal affairs, and his loss was severely felt in the Council. CHAPTEE XXII. THE JAIL AND THE COURT HOUSE. There have been in Niagara three different buildings erected for a court house and two for jails. In 1795 an advertisement appears, signed by Ealfe Clench, for materials for a jail and court house. It is believed, indeed, it is certain, that the corner of King and Prideaux Streets is in a plan of the town reserved for a jail, with the Court House near it, either on Prideaux or King Street. These buildings were destroyed in the War of 1812-4. There were confined in the jail at that time three hundred prisoners, most of them political offenders and disloyal citizens. The first execution of which we have any trace is that of Geo. Newnes (?) and Mary Lowdon for murder by poison of Barth Lowdon, of Saltfieet. The execution was ordered to take place on the Monday following the giving of the verdict. In those days punishment was swift and sudden. In 1816 appears an advertisement, again signed by Ealfe Clench, for materials for a jail and court house, asking for brick, stone, timber, shingles, etc. In a letter signed C. D. N., in The Gleaner, March 26th, 1818, reference is made to the new jail and court house as a handsome build ing which must have cost a great sum of money and does credit to the builders and founders, but the writer can not conceive why it was set in " that swamp." In the issue for April 23rd is an acknowledgment from Josiah Cush- man of the honorable treatment he has received in his con tract and completion of the jail and court house, and he thanks the committee and magistrate for arranging the payment of the same. A few extracts from the papers of those days bring home to us the severe laws of the time. In the 1825 Midsummer Assizes in Niagara District, one Cole was ordered to stand one hour in the pillory ; John Hi.ght, for highway robbery, was condemned to death. Banishment, pillory and whip- 157 158 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA ping are frequent punishments. Jas. Fleming, for steal ing goods, was sentenced to be twice publicly whipped and imprisoned for two months ; Eobert Anderson, for passiag a three-dollar counterfeit bill, was given seven years' ban ishment and one month's imprisonment ; another, one and a half hours in the pillory, and three months in prison for keeping a disorderly house. In October three prisoners escaped, and John Spence stabbed the jailer and escaped. In 1826 the assizes were held by Judge Sherwood and proved a long-protracted court ; they sat till 9 p.m. Three were found guilty of horse-'stealing and sheep-stealing, and Wm. Corbin and Adam Grass were sentenced to be hanged on 25th October. The paper for October 28th shows this sentence was not carried out. " Great disappointment — great numbers came from the United States into town to see the execution but His Excellency had suspended the sentence. A waggon-load of cakes and gingerbread had to be sold at reduced rates." "What a mingling of the sad and the ludicrous does this gruesome item give us. What stories could these walls tell us of grief, of remorse, of despair, sometimes against injustice. Several memor able trials have taken place, several remarkable prisoners have here spent sad days and nights — debtors, criminals, political prisoners; the trial of Gourlay, the iinprisonment of the escaped slave Moseby, the thirteen condemned to death for their share in the Eebellion, the innocent man suffering death for the crime of another man, and as a contrast the services of the Episcopal Church performed here in 1843, when the chancel was built in St. Mark's. What varying scenes ! An enthusiastic botanist who visited Canada in 1819, John Goldie, collecting flowers all the way from Montreal to Hamilton, but whose three collections never reached Scotland, describes the jail and court house at Niagara as the "finest building in Canada." If this building could tell only a part of what has been enacted within its walls what a tragic tale should we have. The memorable trial of Eobert Gourlay took place here, so" graphically described in Dent's " History of the Eebellion," in which is portrayed the court room, the lawyers, the judge, the prisoner, the HON. ROBERT HAMILTON. THE JAIL AND COUET HOUSE 159 witnesses, much in the style of Macaulay's trial of Warren Hastings, commencing thus : " In the afternoon of a warm and sultry day towards the close of one of the warmest and most sultry summers which Upper 'Canada has ever known, an extraordinary trial took place at the Court House in the old town of Niagara. . . . The date was Friday the 30th of August, 1819. The court room, the largest in the Province, was packed to the doors, and though every window was throvm open the atmosphere was almost stifling." Eobert Gourlay, a British subject, was banished as an alien by false oaths, his crime that of protesting against the Government of that period. His treatment was so harsh that his reason gave way for a time. He is called the ¦" Banished Briton." A letter of his had appeared in the Niagara Spectator unknovni to the editor, Bartemus Ferguson, and for this the unfortunate printer was tried for sedition, sentenced to stand in the pillory, fi.ned fifty pounds and to remain in jail till the fine was paid. These " good old days " do not appeal to us. In 1831, January 8th, is mentioned the Debtor's prayer on the walls of the prison. In 1833 a letter in The Gleaner from a debtor in jail, speaks of the kindness of Mrs. Stephenson and Mrs. 'Capt. Mosier in sending food; and the angel, Mary Stephenson, is spoken of. A remarkable record of this event may be seen in the city of Ottawa. A prisoner confined for debt must have been also an artist of no mean merit, as is shown by an oil painting allegori cal in its nature. It depicts a beautiful girl of perhaps thirteen years of age, feeding a bird in a cage. This is little Mary Stephenson holding a basket in her hand in which provisions have been brought to the prisoner. The oil painting is owned by a niece of the maiden. In the same letter the kindness of John Crooks, Postmaster, is spoken of in sending wood, and a visitor speaks of the prisoners enduring the severity of a Canadian winter with out a fire. In 1833 a large political meeting was held at the Court House, called by the sheriff to discuss the affairs of the country. The accounts are very confused, one meeting going on inside with Jas. Cooper as chairman, another 160 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA going on outside with Wm. Ball as chairm'an. Bach party declared his the only legal meeting, both declared their loyalty to the King, each passed an address, one declaring themselves quite contented with present conditions, the other speaking of the grievances that existed in war losses not being paid or grants of land given. Eleven resolutions were passed by each. It must have been an exciting time and a difficult one for a supposed-to-be non-partisan paper to report. In 1837 occurred what is called the " Slave Eescue " by some ; by others the " Eiot." A slave named Moseby who escaped from Kentucky, was followed to Niagara, and his master asked that he be given up for having taken his master's horse in his escape. He was imprisoned for some time in the jail. His colored brethren surrounded the building for a fortnight or more, determined to prevent his return to slavery. Sir Francis Bond Head at last ordered his return to the United States. Soldiers were on hand with constables and the sheriff, the Eiot Act was read, the slave escaped, but two black men were killed and others wounded. The leader of the rescue party was Herbert Holmes, an educated African, a teacher and exhorter. He was buried in the graveyard of the Baptist church. On July 30th Jas. Morreau was hanged for his share in the Eebellion, and on August 35th, thirteen others were also to be executed, but were all reprieved except three, one of them being Benjamin Waite, whose wife made hercu lean exertions to save her husband, travelling to Toronto and Quebec, the reprieve only arriving half an hour before the time fixed for the execution. She afterwards went to England to intercede for him and was ready to follow him to Van Dieman's Land to be with him. Another pathetic story is that of the execution of an innocent man, Seely, as was afterwards known by the confession of the real mur derer; and another story still reads to us as almost impos sible to believe. In those days when any unfortunate was confined for debt, the creditor was obliged to send weekly a certain sum to provide food — we may be sure it would be of the scantiest; failing the arrival weekly of this the prisoner was allowed to go. A story by E. W. Thomson, " The Jail Limits," in " Old Man Savarin," gives an ex- THE JAIL AND COUET HOUSE 161 ample of this, but not of the cruel nature of the Niagara victim. A debtor had been confined for some time when the death of the creditor occurred. All supposed that the prisoner would be released, but no, with fiendish cunning a provision in the will arranged for the continued payment of the weekly dole, and thus from the grave full punish ment was provided for. The executors of the will thought this cruel, but at first felt powerless and still the prisoner languished in jail. But a way of escape was thought of; the money was to be delivered at the hour of noon and it was arranged that the messenger should linger on the way or be detained so as to be a few minutes late, and the jailer, nothing loath, allowed the prisoner to depart. In the amusing story of the "Jail Limits," the way of escape was by arranging that one of the coins should be a bank token, not a legal payment, and so the prisoner was freed. Here were confined several of the blacks who had taken part in the slave rescue ; they were liberated to form a com pany of soldiers in the Eebellion. In 1866 several of the Fenian prisoners were confined here before being trans ferred to Toronto for trial. In 1843 while the transept of St. Mark's was being built the congregation worshipped here. In 1869 the building was purchased for Miss Eye's waifs and strap's from the Motherland, and here over five thousand have been sent out as servants or adopted; many of these have taken good positions, and hundreds of letters and photographs are received at the Home, telling of their progress, sometimes now in a home of their own and send ing for a servant from the present inmates. Mi'is Eye made many changes in the building; the two stone cells for prisoners condemned to death were taken dcnvn, the stones being used for culverts in the town. 'What was the court room is now the dormitory and what was the gallery for spectators has been altered. An interesting story is told of the fine coat of arms which hung above the indge's chair and recalls the story of how the Eegalia of Scotland, which may now be seen in the Crown Eoom in Bdinbur.ofh Castle, was hidden away for over a century lest it should be taken to England, till discovered by the antiquarian research of Sir Walter Scott. "When St. Cathar ines was made the county town it was feared that this fine 12 163 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA oil painting of the coat of arms would be transferred, and it is told that it was hidden away for years and found in the lock-up in the basement carefully covered up; it has now for many years graced the walls of what is called the Music Hall, but which was from 1847 the 'Court Eoom. CHAPTEE XXIII. TIIE METHODIST CHURCH. This organization dates back a hundred years, but un fortunately no early records have been preserved, but from Carrol's " Case," Playter and Dr. Cornish, items are gleaned which throw light on the distant past, showing that services were held here. In 1786, Major Geo. Neale, an Irishman, crossed the river at Queenston, Oct. 7th, and was the first Methodist who preached in Canada. He took up an officer's portion of land, formed a class near Niagara, supposed to have been between Queenston and St. Davids. In 1795 the Niagara Circuit was formed, extending in 1805 over the Niagara peninsula as far as Ancaster. The church which stood on Gate Street was built in 1833 and was opened by the Eev. John Eyerson. Wm. Eyerson was at Port George and Queenston, which included Cross Eoads, in 1834-5. All the early references are to Warner's, near St. Davids, and the first class was formed at the home of Christian 'Warner, and the first Methodist church built in the district was Warner's Church in 1801. It was un finished for many years ; and after the war a coat of plaster was put on, but it was never painted inside or out. In the graveyard the name Warner occurs again and again; many United Empire Loyalists were buried here, the name most frequently occurring being that of Secord. A later building still stands, but is not used. The name Niagara Circuit does not always stand for the same, at one time embracing the town of Niagara and the village of Queens ton, when the Eev. D. Youmans and E. Heyland in 1837 were stationed here. In 1839 it was called Niagara and Port 'George Circuit, comprehending part of the Niagara district, its true head then being St. Catharines. Fort George Circuit next embraced all the villages along the bank of the Niagara Eiver to Fort Erie. A pleasing incident may be told here. Mr. Green, who says it was the first circuit in which he could ride in a carriage, was 163 164 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA married by Eev. Ealph Deeming, of Ancaster, the Episco pal minister, who, when offered a fee, which was a large one (for those days), said, "I would rather be considered as a brother than a hireling." Methodist ministers were not then allowed to perform the ceremony. Mr. Green records this as an act of catholicity and brotherly kindness. Port George and Niagara Circuit were rearranged in 1831, Niagara Circuit comprehending Niagara town and a strip along the lake to the " Fifty." Dr. Cornish states that Niagara Circuit was formed in 1795, embracing York and Long Point, and that Darius Dunham preached at that date; Jas. Coleman in 1799; Michael Coate and Jos. Sawyer in 1800; John Eyerson in 1833 and Wm. Eyerson in 1823-25. In the early papers of the town frequent notices are given of temperance meetings in the " Meetiag House " ; this means the Methodist church, showing that the Metho dists of that day were as prominent in Temperance work as they have been ever since. The musical part of the service was good and some still remember the bass viol as played by old Mr. Varey before the days of organs. Father Brady is yet remembered as a class leader, and Sister "Whitten's sweet face, she teaching a class of colored children, others helping. The old frame building of 1823 was abandoned and the Canada Presby terian Church was bought for $1,600 in 1875. The choir played an important part in the church services ; the gallery across the church extended nearly half way. Mr. George Vary played the flute, Mrs. Whitelaw played the first melodeon used. Mr. Tlios. McKee was an early leader of the choir, also T. E. Watts. Miss Burns afterwards played the organ, and Mr. E. C. Burns was leader of the choir. Among the singers were Mrs. Watts, Mrs. Follett, Mrs. Warren, the Misses Manifold, Mrs. Whitelaw, Miss Fisher. Mr. P. M. Whitelaw also did much for the musical service, as did Mr,'^. Deveau and Mrs. Burns. Among the early teachers of the Sunday school were Mr. and Mrs. Varey, Mrs. Whitten, Mrs. Powell, the Misses Shaw, and, in later days, Mr. John Nisbett, as superintendent. Mr. Eobert Warren was a. member of the church for sixty years and a teacher in the Sunday school, class leader and sup- METHODIST CHUECH 165 erintendent of the Sunday school for many years. Mr. Albert Andrews also was superintendent for several years. Miss Lockwood was also a teacher in the Sunday school. Since occupying the new building many improvements have been made, a fine pipe organ purchased, and a school room bunt adjoining and communicating with the church, a commodious and in every way suitable room. This was greatly due to the exertions of the Ladies' Aid Society of the church and the help given by two aged men, Mr. J. McCarthy and Mr. John Boyd. Mr. Warren also was a liberal helper. Many who afterwards became noted Metho dist ministers labored here first, as Eev. Dr. Young, Dr. Sutherland, Dr. Wakefield, Dr. Withrow, Dr. Cleaver. Among other ministers here were Mr. Mills, an eloquent preacher, Mr. Masson, Mr. Sylvester, Eev. G. N. A. P. T. Dickson, Dr. Orme. In the pastorate of Mr. Fields the Jubilee was held in 1873 and in that of Mr. Masson and Mr. Sylvester occurred revivals. Dr. Withrow is remem bered for the interest he took in the public library, he being the principal one in its revival when it was almost defunct. He afterwards became editor of the Methodist Magazine and the Sunday school papers and quarterlies. CHAPTEE XXIV. MILITARY. This does not refer to the battles fought here, but rathjr to what we can find of the militia of our town and town ship and the different British regiments that have been stationed here at different times. No. 1 Lincoln Eegiment of early years, and No. 1 Company Niagara Volunteers of a later date. Traces of the regiments of a hundred years ago are found in the form of buttons, buckles, etc., at Fort George, Fort Mississauga, Butler's Barracks, and many other places in the town, bullets, cannon balls, the latter coming in the bombardment of the town, 13th October, 1813, May 37th, 1813, etc. A fine collection of buttons was ovsmed at one time by Eichard Taylor, which contained buttons of almost every regiment which had been stationed here, British, Canadian or United States, the latter from their seven months' occupation of this town in 1813. When heavy rains wash down the soil the boys of the town are on the lookout for buttons, and we are afraid think more of their commercial value to dispose of to the summer visi tors than from a sentimental or historical point of view. Col. 'Cruikshank, who saw the collection above referred to and who, there is no doubt, knows more of the history of this peninsula and of the War of 1813 than anyone living or dead, said, when viewing it, that almost every regiment was represented. The buttons most frequently found are the 41st and 100th, as these were here a longer time than any other regiment. Those of Brock's Eegiment, the 49th, are not so frequently found; Butler's Eangers are more rare still. We read that when Simcoe was here in 1793 men of the 5th formed his guard. In 1804 Brock's regiment was 166 MILITAEY 167 here and we have the story of the mutiny which he quelled. In an old account book of Lieut. J. D. Servos there are references to the 1st Lincoln Eegiment of Militia from 1810 to 1838, with names of officers and men, also of all males in the limits over age and of half-pay officers. A note written three days after the Battle of Queenston Heights and another later gives the names of those killed at the Battle of Fort George and at Lundy's Lane belong ing to his company. The following British Eegiments are known to have been stationed here: 5th Eegiment, King's 8th, Fusiliers, Eoyal Newfoundland, Eoyal Soots, Eoyal Artillery, Eoyal Engineers, Glengarry Light Infantry, De Watteville, Sap pers and Miners, King's Dragoon Guards, 37th, 68th, 70th Surrey, 71st, 76th, 79th, 82nd, 89th, 99th, 100th, 104th, and Eoyal Canadian Eifles formed from regulars who had served their time and re-enlisted. It has been discovered that the word " Niagara " is borne on the colors of the six following British regiments: 1st Eoyal 'Scots, King's 8th, 41st Welsh Eegiment, 49th Princess Charlotte of Wales, 82nd Prince of Wales, 89th Princess Victoria. A remembrance of those who had fought at Queenston Heights, or had served in some capacity in the War of 1812, is preserved in a photograph taken at Queenston Heights in 1869 of eight veterans whether as soldiers or powder boys, the oldest aged 89, the youngest 67, the names being Daniel Field, Solomon Vrooman, Seneca Palmer, John P. Clement, Duncan McFarland, John Whitten, Lewis Clement, Daniel Cooper. No doubt these old vet erans in conversation fought their battles over again, if they did not " shoulder their crutch and show how fields were won." In the home of Miss Mary Servos are many military documents, the family from 1778 having been military. One room in the house dates back to 1784. The situation is ideal on "Palatine Hill." The account book on one page records 3,494 barrels of potash sold, Oct., 1799. The docu ments, some of them on parchment, are commissions of sev- 168 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA eral generations of the name as ensign, lieutenant, captain, major, colonel, signed by different officials, as Haldimand, Colonel Butler, Lord Dorchester, Francis Gore, Peregrine Maitland, Hon. Eobert Hamilton. The oldest is dated 1779, December 24th, from Haldimand, appointing Daniel Servos lieutenant in Colonel Johnson's corps of North American Indians. A relic of the retreat of the United States forces from Stoney Creek is an ammunition box ten feet long, two feet square, with the letters, U. S. No. 1, 6 lb. ; there is an old saddle on which the grandmother Prey swam across the Susquehanna Eiver carrying despatches ; a document shows the size of the farm to have been 394 acres in 1794. In an old account book of Captain J. D. 'Servos are the names of his company 10th July, 1812, returns also 20th July, 1 captain, 1 lieutenant, 1 ensign, 3 sergeants and 36 privates thus, — J. D. Servos, Captain. Elijah Secord, Lieutenant. Joseph Clement, Ensign. Joseph Haun, ) Jacob Spamback [ Sergeants. John Fox. ) Privates. 1. David Cudney. 13. Jas. Bennett. 3. Geo. Cockill. 13. John Cain. 3. Wm. Pickard. 14. Alex. Allen Sr. 4. Wm. Eobbins. 15. Matt. Smith. 5. Abra Secord. I6. Jas. Cudney. 6. John Bissell. ir. ,Sam. Clement. 7. Wm. Kip. 18. Wm. James. 8. Peter Cockell. 19. Francis Martelle. 9. Wm. Allen. 20. Sam. Tomkins. 10. Wm. Fane. 21. A. Frisman. 11. Dan. McFerson. 32. Eich. Slingeriand. MILITAEY 169 23. Alex. Allen, Jr. 30. John Laval. 24. Wm. Parker. 31. P. Powers. 25. L. Ferrish. 32. S. Prichard. 26. Mich. Deptly. 33. Alex. Young. 37. John Frisman. 34. John Braffit. 38. John Wilson. 35. Dan. McFerson. 29. John Camp. 36. — On 7th September the company with 38 privates was reviewed by General Sheaffe, and on 13th October, 1812, a list of arms and accoutrements with 18 rounds of ball from Fort George by John D. Servos ; next is given a list with the names of seven volunteers, among them Geo. Lawrence, John 'Clement, Aaron Stevens, Adam Crysler, and on 13th February, 1813, a list of 44 rank and file required 50' blankets, and signatures of those who received beds, blankets, accoutrements, and ammunition, showing they were on active service. On 21st April, there are 50 privates, 3 sergeants, 3 corporals; Cortlandt Secord is en sign, then a statement, "I certify that I lost three-fourths of my personal baggage at Fort George in consequence of the retreat by order of Major-General Vincent, 27th May, 1813. — John D. Servos, Captain 1st Eegiment. L. M." and a letter to Col. Claus, January, 1815, tells that Geo. Cockell was killed at Lundy's Lane and recommends his widow with a large family for an allowance (Caughill is meant) . The next page gives a return of those killed in his company with the number, names and ages of the children of Martin McLellan, Wm. Cameron, Charles Wright and Geo. Cockell; also 'Capt. Jones died while a prisoner in the United States, and Jacob Spamback, sergeant, died while on active service. Then comes a list of all the officers in the ten companies of the 1st Lincoln Militia in 1827. In the history of the War of 1812-14 by David Thompson of the Eoyal Scots several names of the Lincoln regiments are mentioned by General Sheaffe as having distinguished themselves by their bravery at the Battle of Queenston Heights. Two flags of the 2nd Lincoln, with the words 170 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA G. E. IV. showing the date to be between 1820 and 1830, are in our Historical Building, and two flags of the Lincoln Militia are exhibited in the Log Cabin Museum in Toronto, while one is in possession of the 19th Battalion in St. Catharines, and another one is known to be in private hands. In a list of "Headquarters, Port George, July 8th, 1814, Weekly Distribution, Gen. Eiall," we find the troops were stationed as follows : Fort Niagara — Col. Tucker, — 41st Eegiment, Staff 21 officers. Eoyal Marine Artillery, 62 rank and file. 41st Eegiment, 25 officers, 466 rank and file. 100th Eegiment, one hundred. Fort George — Col. Gordon, — Eoyal Scots. Fort Mississauga, — Major Evans, — 8th Eegiment. 19th Light Dragoons, 3 officers, 64 rank and file, 4 sick. Provincial Light Dragoons, 2 officers, 15 rank and file. Eoyal Engineers, 2 officers. ¦Sappers and Miners, 6 rank and file. Eoyal Artillery, 8 officers, 163 rank and tile. Incorporated Militia Artillery, 1 officer, 10 rank and file. Eoyal Artillery Drivers, 1 officer, 28 rank and file. 1st Eoyal Scots, 29 officers, 726 rank and file, 153 sick and wounded. 8th Eegiment, 27 officers, 515 rank and file, 11 sick and wounded. 100th Eegiment, 5 officers, 266 rank and file, 121 sick and wounded. Incorporated Militia, 33 officers, 309 rank and file. Colored corps, 1 officer, 22 rank and file, 4 sick." The officers of the 1st Lincoln in 1812 were; No. 1, Andrew Heron, Wm. Powis, Elijah Secord; No. 3, Geo. MILITAEY 171 Lawe, Geo. A. Ball, Henry Pawling ; No. 3, Wm. Eobertson, John Ball, Adam Brown; No. 4, Geo. Lawrence, John Servos ; No. 5, Geo. Eeed, Wm. Servos, Geo. Darby ; No. 6, Geo. Hamilton, Thos. McCormick, John May ; No. 7, John Jones, John Secord, Simcoe 'Stevenson; Flank 'Companies, Jas. Crooks, Capt., Martin McLellan, Lt., A. Foster, John McEwan, E. Eankin, Geo. Adams, 396 present. Of Niagara militia after the town was taken, although many were paroled, several were taken prisoners and sent to the United States, as Ealfe Clench, John Powell, Geo. Lane, John McEwan, J. Ball. At the taking of Port Niagara three militiamen were killed and Capt. Servos and five were wounded. Several distinguished themselves, as Ball, Hamilton, Servos, Kirby. The Lincoln Militia did their duty during the War of 1812 and were complimented by Brock and 'Sheaffe. John C. Ball had charge of cannon at Queenston Heights, James Crooks and John McEwan's companies marched from Niagara and Eobert Hamilton's from Chippawa. Of those killed we know few names, — Capt. Martin McLellan, Charles Wright and Wm. Cam eron at Niagara, and Geo. Grass, 27th May, 1813, and Geo. Caughill at Lundy's Lane. Lieuts. Ball, Hamilton and Servos distinguished them'selves at the storming of Fort Niagara, and Col. Thos. Dickson at Chippawa, where he was wounded. David Thompson's " History of the War of 1813 " says that " Major David Secord then took com mand, and the Second Lincoln distinguished themselves by feats of genuine bravery stimulated by the example of their gallant leader." At Stamford when General Brock reviewed two companies of militia before the war began and asked how many would volunteer, they all marched to the front except one. In David Thompson's History of the War of 1813-14 are given the names of officers of the militia in this vicinity, whom General Sheaffe reported as "having particularly signalized themselves for the gallant and steady manner in which they led troops under their command into action and for a length of time sustained the conflict with an overwhelming enemy, viz.. Lieutenant- 173 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Colonels Butler and Clark, Captains Hatt, Durand, Eowe, Applegarth, Jas. Crooks, Jas. Cooper, Eobert Hamilton, John McEwan and Duncan Cameron; and Lieut. Thomas Butler commanding a flank company of Lincoln Militia, Lieut. Eichardson commanding a flank company of York Militia ; Captain A. Hamilton is likewise highly spoken of for his usefulness and activity at the guns under Capt. Holcroft, to whose company he had attached himself after being disabled from accompanying his troop in the Niagara Dragoons, to which he then belonged. The guns at Fort George were under the direction of Captains Powell and Cameron, of the Militia Artillery, during October 13th." The presentation of two flags in 1818 to the 4th Eegi ment of Lincoln Militia is recorded in the Niagara Spec tator, June 18th. A set of colors, consecrated by Eev. W. Sampson, was presented by the two Misses Nelles; the words used by each of the ladies are worth preservation. Miss E. Nelles said; "These colors are presented under a fixed conviction that you will do honor to them on every occasion, and should you again be called on to defend your country from an invading foe, may your united endeavors as heretofore be crowned with success by the God of ju.?- tice ; and may these banners sanctified by divine benediction remain unsullied as symbols of your loyalty to succeeding generations." Miss M. Nelles said, " My friend has left nothing for me to add to the brave officers and men of the 4th Lincoln Militia, except that to say that there is any doubt of their voluntarily defending with their lives these colors now confided to their charge would be to contradict the many proofs they have publicly given of their loyalty and bravery. May your arms always prosper against the enemies of your country." The evening closed with a dance at the home of Lieut.-Colonel Eobert Nelles. Sometimes there seems to have been friction between the military and civilian elements, as in 1817 an arrangement was made between the magistrates and Colonel Grant, by which Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays are allowed to inhabitants of the town to fish, and the other three days are for the military. " After this it is hoped no misunder standing wiU take place." MILITAEY 173 In 1838, June 9th, the 1st Eegiment Lincoln Militia formed a hollow square on the plains of Port George; En signs Muirhead and Fields marched in full uniform bear ing elegant new colors guarded by Major Dobie, Quarter- Master-Sergeant Miller, Ensigns J. Whitten and T. "Whit ten, the colors were unfurled and the Eegiment addressed by Col. Leonard, congratulating them on the brave stand made by the Eegiment in defence of the country invaded by a ruthless enemy. Evolutions were performed and din ner to thirty of the Eegiment at Wilson's, the non-coms. at Howard's. In 1839 six companies of the 1st Lincoln Militia met on the plains; also a troop of horse in uniform under Lt. Eobert Dickson and Cornet W. H. Dickson. In 1830, May 14th, the 71st Eegiment left Niagara and the 79th arrived. In 1831 a long complimentary address was presented by the town to Capt. Hanson of the 71st, which speaks highly of the good conduct of the soldiers who have been here two years. In 1835 a map was made, signed by G. Nicholls, Colonel commanding Eoyal Engineers, Quebec, of the Military Eeserve here, showing the buildings at Port George, Butler's Barracks and Fort Mississauga. The Eeserve on the 'Common had been laid out by Lieut. Pilkington in 1796. A map also exists made in 1833 by Captain Vavasour, shotving the Common laid out in streets. In 1835 " Delinquents of 1st Lincoln who attended without arms oreviously will assemble with arms at twelve noon. J. W. Ball is appointed Ensi.gn." During the Eebellion, on December 9th, 1837, one hun dred volunteers went across to Toronto. "Mr. Lockhart had fitted up in twelve hours the dismantled Britannica, provi sioned her, etc. Warning had been given at St. Catharines ; some walked through mud and mire, fifty cavalry formed at once, all went through in three and a half hours ; as they passed every window flew open, handkerchiefs waved : at six the boat left with cheers, but there was such a wind that it returned in three hours. Indians came in under Chief Col. Kerr, of Wellin.gton Square, Niagara was filled, but none were allowed to leave." The Niagara troop was under Capt. Dickson. 174 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA During the American 'Civil War the Niagara volunteer company was sent to Philipsburg, Que., to defend the fron tier and prevent Southerners in Canada from attacking banks in United States, and a French company and the Queen's Own were sent here. At the time of the Fenian Eaid a Home Guard was formed, and many were the false alarms of the crossing of an invading force by practical jokers of that day now dead and gone. The names of No. 1 'Company at the time of the Fenian Eaid are fur nished to us in a statement presenting the silver bugle, given by the ladies of the town, to the company on their return from Philipsburg, 1865, to the historical collection. They are as then given by their own signatures : Johnson B. Clench, Lt. George Ellison. E. Currie, Ensign. Eobt. Pizette. Joseph Masters, Sergeant. Thos. Holohan. Eichard Wynn. A. Sherlock. J. H. Willson. Stephen Todd. J. G. Thornton. John Bishop. John Clockenburg. Jas. B. McMillen. John Eaynor. William Long. W. J. Campbell. William Elliot. James Hartley. James Holohan. A. Davey. Wm. H. Smith. Thos. Eobertson. Patrick Lynch. Henry Ellison. John Nisbet. John Thompson. Albert Sherlock. In 1866 No. 1 Company was sent to Fort Erie in the Fenian Eaid. This company had been formed in 1861 ; meetings had been held at which Hon. J. G. Currie and John Powell spoke, and the first captain was Mr. John Powell. The active service was in 1861-3, during the excitement of the Trent affair. "When the 19th Battalion was formed in 1863 our company joined, but retained its number. The next service was in 1865 at the time of the St. Alban's Eaid. A band was formed, three of its mem bers being the Ellison brothers, George, John and Henry. In April, 1865, No. 1 Company was sent to Philipsburg and in 1866 they went with the 19th Battalion to Fort MILITAEY 175 Erie ; although too late to engage in the fight, they helped to take care of the wounded, guarded the prisoners taken and even helped to bury some of the dead Fenians. The last active service of the company was in 1870, when a second Fenian invasion was threatened. Three members served over 35 years and were awarded the long service medal — John Clockenburg, who had been in the Prussian Army, James Hartley and Joseph Masters. The chief officers have been Capt. John Powell, Johnson Clench, Edward Thompson and Eobert Currie. CHAPTEE XXV. THE BAPTIST CHURCH. Much relating to the organization of this church and the erection of the building may be learned from the journal of Eev. John Oakley, who came to Niagara in 1814, and was employed in a military capacity at Fort George, as keeper of the stores. He retired on half pay and became a teacher and a preacher, and was, no doubt, the principal factor in procuring funds for the building. He says, "Before I left Niagara the Lord enabled me to obtain means of building a chapel in the western part of the town. It is a plain, substantial building, 30 x 40 feet, and is now occupied principally by the black race, they being the most numerous members in the church." The white members, when a Baptist chapel was built at the cross roads. Four Mile Creek (now Virgil), united with the church there. "July 5th, 1830. I am much encouraged with the liberality of the brethren and friends in subscribing to wards the building or meeting-house. The Lord bless our undertaking." In a Niagara paper of July 31st, 1830, appears an adver tisement asking for tenders, signed, J. Oakley, D. B. Groat, J. Pickard, and naming those who were to collect, as Deacon George Havens, Ten Mile Creek, Deacon J. Van Loon, Louth, near Twenty Mile Creek, and Deacon J. Beam, Beamsville. The size to he exactly upon the plan of the Methodist meeting-house, 43 x 33 x 30, the porch 10 x 7. Deacon Beam gave two acres of land for the church at Beamsville, the village taking its name from him. The diary goes on : " September 1st. Have been busily engaged in getting timber hauled to Niagara for building the meeting-house. " October. Have been travelling for two weeks soliciting money from the brethren of other churches and others to assist us in building the meeting-house. The Lord gave us 176 THE BAPTIST CHUECH 177 favor in the sight of the people, so that many who were opposed to us subscribed liberally. I have been greatly grieved with the consideration that most of our brethren who are able, and from whom we might naturally have expected the greatest encouragement and assistance, have done less for us than many who do not profess to have experienced a change of heart. Out of 330 subscribers, and several of these Catholics, there are not at present more than thirty brethren and sisters from our own denomina tion. Through the goodness of God, who has the hearts of all men in His hands, we have been enabled to raise the frame of the building that we intend (the Lord permitting us) to consecrate entirely to the service of our God, with out the customary use of ardent spirits, and oh! that it may be the birthplace of many souls. " June 38th, 1831. Meeting-house opened. First sermon at nine. Prayer-meeting at six a.m." Elder Winchel, who had been instrumental in organizing a church at Queenston, preached once a fortnight for a year in Niagara, and Elder Neill once a month. " Deacon Beam and Brother Pickard helped us to determine on the plan and size of the meeting-house." The church thus re ferred to was used for many years by the colored people of the tovm., of whom there were several hundred, principally escaped slaves. Eev. J. B. Mowat preached to them while here in 1854-6. The building has been removed to the farm of Miss Oliver, and the foundation stones may yet be seen. In speaking of the church in after years, Mrs. Guillean, a fine-looking mulatto woman, said, " The white Baptis' and the black Baptis' disputed for the church, but the black Baptis' won." She recalled the fact that baptisms (of course by immersion) sometimes took place in the creek running through a field in town, and sometimes they preferred the waters of Lake Ontario, going down to the lake shore near Fort Mississauga. U CHAPTEE XXVI. GRAVEYARDS OF NIAGARA AND VICINITY. While it was natural that the early settlers should bury their dead on their own farms, it is much to be regretted that when regular cemeteries were provided these were not used by all, as in many cases farms have changed owners, and the family burial plot has been neglected, given over to the plough or to briars and weeds, cattle browsing over the graves of those whose memory should be kept green and their graves treated with tender care. Butler Family Graveyard. — This was originally a part of the farm of Colonel John Butler, situated about a mile from town, at the west end, half an acre of land in the centre of the farm. The will of 'Colonel Butler directed that his body should be buried in the family burying- ground. A deed is in existence by which it became the pro perty of Warren Claus, John Claus, Ealfe Clench, James Muirhead, Thomas Butler, Hugh Freel. The farm has since been sold, and the boundary line between the two owners runs exactly through the middle of the burial plot. A fence formerly surrounded it, but this no longer exists; by the fall of an immense tree, which was cut down, most of the stones have been broken; the vault had fallen in and the remains were exposed to view. It is remarkable that although there are inscriptions to other members of the family there is none to the doughty colonel himself; but this has been atoned for in St. Mark's Church. The high- sounding periods of those days are well exemplified in the following : "Here reposes Maria Caroline, the generous-hearted, high-souled, talented and deeply lamented wife of Major Eichardson, Knight of the Military Order of St. Ferdinand of the First Class, and Superintendent of Police on the Welland Canal, during the administration of Lord Met calfe. This matchless woman died of apoplexy, and to the exceeding grief of her faithfully attached husband, after 178 GEAVBYAEDS OP NIAGAEA 179 a few days' illness in St. Catharines, on the 16th day of August, 1845, at the age of 37 years." Peculiar punctuation and orthography appear in the next: " Deborah Freel : died 1816 aged 70. My dere ; children ; Think on God : And His Commandments : An he wil Think on yo : Observ your youth : don't lose no time : Least God should take you in your prime : Serve God above : And on this world : fix not your lov." Another stone chronicles "Samuel Cox, who was born on the ocean between Germany and New York, 1759; died 1833." There were also stones to Butler Muirhead, barrister, and James Muirhead, surgeon, to Mary, wife of John Gustavus Stevenson, and daughter of James and Jane Butler, also one to Eliza, wife of Charles Eichardson. A large flat stone mentions that it was erected as a family monument, by Charles Eichardson, A.D. 1835, and reads thus ; " Sacred to the memory of Ealfe Clench, died Janu ary, 1838, aged 66 years. Eliza Euretta Eichardson, wife of 'Charles Eichardson, died September, 1833, aged 25 years. Jane, wife of Eobert Eist, late Captain of 37th Eegiment, and eldest sister of Charles Eichardson, died 1831." The body of Ealfe Clench was afterwards removed to St. Mark's cemetery. He was one of the Eangers, judge, mem ber of Parliament, and town clerk ; he fought at Queenston Heights. A small enclosure has flat stones to two sons of Colonel Butler, Thomas and Johnson, who died in Decem ber, 1813, and their wives also, and Judge Butler, son of Thomas Butler. In the vault were interred various members of the Claus family. Ann, relict of Colonel Daniel Claus, daughter of Sir "William Johnson and his German wife, and mother of Colonel William Claus lies here. The last one buried here was John 'Claus, son of Colonel William Claus. The park commissioners have lately put a strong fence around the enclosure, and it is hoped a right of way will be arranged for, and a cairn with the names of all sleeping here. Ball Family Burying- Ground. — This graveyard has sev eral generations buried in its enclosure. The Jacob Ball 180 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA who came with his three sons, bringing forty men to enlist in Butler's Eangers, in 1780, lies here with his three sons, Peter, John and George; the other son, Jacob, is buried at the Ten Mile Creek. The inscriptions are brief : " In meni'ory of Jacob Ball, bom 1733, died 1810. He had fought in the Queen's Eangers through the Eevolutionary War." " Mary Ball, wife of Jacob Ball, died in 1814, aged 78," and "Elizabeth Showers, wife of Peter Ball, bom 1764, died 1844." The last interred here was John W. Ball, for fifty years an office-bearer in St. Mark's. Bellenger Family Graveyard. — ^This is an almost forgotten burying-plot on the Cox farm, and having passed through many hands, it is easy to understand how the fragments were scattered which we tried to piece together. But this work was repaid, for some unique inscriptions were dis covered. A quotation from the Apocrypha was the first found, and fuller particulars than are generally given as to moment of birth and death. " In memory of Philip Bellenger, who was born — 20th, 1725, between four and five o'clock in the morning, and died February 16th, 1799, between four and five o'clock in the morning." " Here rests the body of Hanna Pawling, wife of G. A. Pawling, who was born in August, 1802, at — o'clock in the morning, and died June — at — o'clock in the morn ing. 'She being made perfect in a short time fulfilled a long time. For her soul pleased the Lord, therefore He hastened to take her away from among the wicked. — Eccles. chap. 4, verses 13 and 14.' " In vain Ecclesiastes was explored for this verse; then Eoclesiasticus with the same result, but finally it was found in the Wisdom of Solomon, but with the word " he " instead of " she," and " his " instead of " her." Since finding this inscription placed here nearly a century ago, a pathetic interest attaches to it, as we find that these are the verses selected by the Princess Alice for her father's tomb, Albert the Good, and they certainly seemed appropriate in his case. Servos Family Burial Ground. — Here on the farm of Miss Mary Servos there are five generations buried. A large monument is to Colonel John D. Servos, born in GEAVBYAEDS OF NIAGAEA 181 Niagara 1784; died 1847. He was captain of Lincoln Militia in 1812-14 and commanded the, Militia at Chip pawa in 1837-8. Another is to Captain Daniel Servos, of Butler's Eangers, who died March 36th, 1808, aged 65. Here also is the grave of the widow of Colonel Johnson who was killed at the time of the taking of Fort Niagara, 1759; "Sacred to the memory of Elizabeth Johnson, who died November, 1811, aged 104 years." Her daughter, Eliza beth, wife of Daniel 'Servos, died in 1831, aged 72 years. Here also is buried Magdalene Servos, wife of John Whit more, who as a little girl witnessed the killing of her grand father in the Eevolutionary War, and afterwards married John Whitmore, who had witnessed a similar sight; their daughter married our distinguished litterateur, William Kirby, F.E.S.C. Another, referred to in St. Mark's regis ter, " Sacred to the memory of Elizabeth, relict of Colin McNabb, Esq., of , near Niagara, who departed this life, Sept. 26th, 1813, aged 44; also of their son, Colin Alexander, Lieutenant in H. M. late Nova Scotia Fencibles Eegiment, who departed this life November 10th, 1820." Other names are found here, as Tannahill, Puller, Lowe. 'Several Indians here found sepulture. Field, Brovm, Vrooman. — Near the residence of Mr. George Field, an historic house, is a graveyard, in which are interred members of three families. A tombstone tells us that Gilbert Field died in 1815, aged 50, while his son Daniel Field, who fought at Detroit, Queenston and Lundy's Lane, died in 1873. In another division of the plot is an inscription : " Sacred to the memory of Solomon S. Vrooman, born December 5th, 1783, died August 21st, 1874;" also to his wife, Mary Brown. The position of Vrooman's battery is yet pointed out. A thick grey stone with a perpendicular division and angels' faces carved above has these words; " In memory of Joseph Brown, died 1821, aged 65, and his consort, Eebecca Johnson, 9th March, 1808." " Remember, men, when you pass by, As you are now, so once was I; As we are now, so you must be — Remember, men, that all must die." 182 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Two others of the date 1808 also have angels' faces; " In memory of Nancy Vrooman, daughter of Solomon and Mary Vrooman, died April, 1808, in the 16th year of her age. Erected 1824." Also Phebe Brown, died 1808, showing the early possession of the farm, still, till last year, in the same name. Hamilton Family Graveyard. — ^The Hon. Eobert Hamil ton, born in Scotland, who may be called the founder of Queenston, is buried here, dying in 1809. To his son, " Sacred to the memory of Eobert Hamilton, born at Fort Niagara, 1787, died 1856. Mary Bigger, his wife, born at Dumfries, Scotland, 1790'." A large altar tomb commem orates a member of the well-knovm Dickson family, related to the Hamiltons. He was a merchant in Queenston. " Sacred to the memory of Thomas Dickson, born in Dumfries, Scotland, who died 1825, aged 50'; also Eliza, his wife, died 1803." Another important name in the history of the country — "Hannah, wife of William Jarvis, Secretary of the Pro vince of Upper Canada, died 1845, aged 84. " Shed not for her the bitter tear, Nor give the heart to vain regret, 'Tis but the casket ithat lies here. The gem that filled it sparkles yet." As the family connection was large, there are many names here from intermarriage, as Tench, Carruthers, Townsend, Duff, Durand, Mewbum, Gourlay. Clement Family Burying-Ground. — Here are found many well-known names. " Sacred to the memory of James Clement, bom 15th July, 1764, died 8th March, 1813, aged 49." The commission of James Clement, signed by Dorches ter, is dated 1788. " In memory of Sarah Clement, daughter of John C. Pettitt, and consort of Joseph Clement, who departed this life 9th June, 1824, aged 34." " Eliza Matilda Ball, daughter of Jacob H. and Kath arine Ball, died 1823, aged 11." In the Stevens' graveyard, very near, is buried George Caughill, killed at Lundy's Lane. It is said that he was GEAVBYAEDS OP NIAGAEA 183 carried from the field by Barney Cain, who was buried at Virgil. Virgil Burial Place. — In the small graveyard of the Methodist Church is a stone to one from whom the village was first named and who was long a class-leader : "George Lawrence, born March 26th, 1757, died August 5th, 1848, aged 91 years." The names of Casselman, Cassaday, Caughill, Cushman, Cain are found on the Corns farm, near Virgil. " To the memory of Casper Corns, died November 24th, 1835, aged 96 years." " In memory of William Casselman, who departed this life January 11th, 1847, aged 53 years." We now turn to the graveyards of the town, and preced ence must be given to that of St. Mark's as being the oldest and, at the same time, the most interesting and most historic. Here rest peacefully together different nation alities and denominations, for as this was the first burial place it was used by all at least forty years before separate graveyards were provided. The oldest stone, dated 1782, is placed in the east vestibule of the church. Perhaps the next in date is the following, but clear-cut as if done quite lately : " Sacred to the memory of Elizabeth Kerr, wife of Eobert Kerr, who departed this life at Niagara, 24th January, 1794, aged 32 years." Mrs. Kerr was a daughter of Sir William Johnson and Molly Brant. Mr. J. E. Eobertson paid to have the inscription re-cut. A large, flat stone, hacked and marred so as to be almost indecipherable, having been used as a butcher's block during the war, while the town was in the hands of the Americans, has this inscription: " To the memory of Charles Morrison, a native of Scot land, who resided many years at Michilimackinac as a merchant and magistrate, and since the cession of that post to the United States became a British subject by elec tion; for loyalty to his Sovereign and integrity in his dealings he was ever remarkable. He died here on his way to Montreal on the 5th day of September, 1802, aged 65 years." In the first poem published by Mr. Kirby, called " The U. E." is a character called by him Eanger John. 184 HISTOEY OP NIAGAEA Here in the south-eastern side of the graveyard is a simple inscription to the old United Empire Loyalist from whom the character in the poem was drawn: " John Clement, Esq., died February 11th, 1845, aged 87." Near the north corner of the cemetery is a monument to "'Colonel Ealfe Clench, died January 19th, 1838, aged 66 years; also Elizabeth, his wife, who died August 15th, 1850, aged 78." His wife, Elizabeth Johnson, was the granddaughter of Sir William Johnson and Molly Brant. Not far from the church are the graves of two worthies yet unmarked, — Dominic Henry, an old soldier of the army of Cornwallis, who afterwards was the lighthouse-keeper, and his wife, who served out refreshments to our soldiers on 37th May, 1813. Many soldiers lie here, in one spot those of the Eoyal Canadian Eifles, in another of the 76th Eegiment, and still another of the King's Dragoon Guards. " Sacred to the memory of Thomas Easton, late trum peter H. M. Eoyal Artillery Drivers, who departed this life February 34th, 1833, aged 56 years." " Here lies within this silent grave A Royal soldier, brisk and brave. Who suddenly was called away From oif this sodden foot of clay." He was trumpeter to Brock at the Battle of Queenston Heights. The father of Major Hiscott, M.P.P. for many years, is thus commemorated: " In memory of Eichard Hiscott, born in Wiltshire, England, 1790, died at Niagara, Canada, 1874. Deservedly esteemed both as a citizen and a soldier. In early life he served with honor in H. M. 76th Eegiment of foot, and was in many battles of the Peninsular War and in Canada. He settled in Niagara, where a large family of his descend ants and numerous friends lament his death." Not far from this, — " In memory of the Hon. William Dickson, of Wood- lawn, Niagara, born in Dumfries, Scotland, 1769, died at Niagara January 1st, 1846; and of Charlotte Adlem, wife GEAVBYAEDS OF NIAGAEA 185 of Hon. William Dickson, born in London, England, 1771, died at Niagara January 1st, 1836." Under a weeping willow, on a small stone, — " To the memory of John Wray, 50' years Parish Clerk of St. Mark's, who died at an advanced age, October 6th, 1846." A trace of the rude hand of war is here recorded, — ¦ " Sacred to the memory of John McFarland, a native of Paisley, Scotland. He was taken prisoner at the capture of Fort George and escaped from Green Bush near the close of the war, 1815. He returned to his place, Niagara, and finding his property burnt up and destroyed, it ener vated him so much that he died in a few months after, in the 64th year of his age." On a tombstone near the north corner is a unique epi taph, as describing one who had gained all the wealth he desired, — " An honest man's the noblest work of God. In memory of Archibald Cunningham, who was born in 'Scotland and resided nearly thirty years in Canada. Having, during half of that time, by Strict Integrity and Persevering In dustry in the Paths of Commerce acquired a Competency equal to his Wishes, he retired to his Farm and there, by a life of Frugal Simplicity and disinterested Benevolence, he retained the affection of all his friends and procured the respect of all his Neighbors. These sentiments, evincing the Esteem of those who accompanied him through Life, Have by them been engraven on this Monument. Erected by a grateful and effectionate Friend. Ob. 31st August, 1804." It is remarkable that a grandniece. Miss Fanny Sibbald, was buried beside him in 1903 (by her own request). " Andrew Brady, born at Queenston Heights August 15th, 1789, died 1875." Many remember him — familiarly known as Father Brady, a Methodist class leader. A fine granite monument has these inscriptions : " To the glory of God and in memory of William McMurray, D.D., D.C.L., Archdeacon of Niagara and Eector of St. Mark's Parish for 37 years. Born September 19th, 1810, died May 19th, 1894. ' Lord, I have loved the habitation of Thy home, and the place where Thine honor dwelleth/ 186 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA Sacred to the memory of Charlotte Johnson, wife of Eev. William McMurray, died 1871, aged 71." This, the first wife of Dr. McMurray, was the sister of Mrs. School craft and daughter of Chief Johnson, an Irish gentleman of Sault Ste. Marie, and an Indian maiden. One of the earliest teachers of Niagara, the Eev. John Burns, is buried at Stamford. Capt. David Thompson, of the Eoyal 'Scots, who wrote a history of the War of 1813 and taught for many years, is buried here, also another edu cator, Andrew Heron, editor of The Gleaner, lies with his four wives beside him in an enclosure between the two defaced stones ; Jean Baptiste Eousseaux, a native of Paris and interpreter to Brant; Captain Alexander Garrett, of the Grenadiers, who fought with Brock at Queenston, all lie here, their graves as yet unmarked. Many quaint and curious lines may be found on the old stones. The exigen cies of rhyme, rhythm and syntax are boldly met and con quered ; metaphors and similes, appropriate or not, abound. To a child : " Ann Graham, who died in 1803 aged four. "My time is short; the longer my rest God called me heare because he thought it best So weep not; drie up your tears Heare must I lie till Christ Apears." Another reads thus: " Dear as thou didst in modest worth excell More dear than in a daughter's name farewell Farewell, dear Maria; but the hour is nigh "When if I'm worthy we shall meet on high Then shall I say triumphant from the tomb Come to thy mother's arms dear Maria, come." " Filial affection stronger than the grave From Time's obliterating hand to save Erects this humble monument of stone Over a father's and a mother's bones." " Here lies as much virtue as could live." GEAVBYAEDS OF NIAGAEA 187 These are all in the first decade of the century and form a contrast with the brief lines on two monuments of late years — " The memory of a life nobly rendered is immortal.'' " Laid here in faith, hope and love, all that is mortal of " A sad story is told on a cross in an enclosure with seven graves of young men snatched from life suddenly; " In affectionate remembrance of Eobert C. Henderson, J. H. Murray, C. B. Anderson, Weir Anderson, Philips Braddon, C.*V. W. Vernon, Vincent H. Taylor, who were lost on 11th July, 1874, by the foundering of the Yacht Foam." St. Andrew's Cemetery. — In this enclosure, where the first church was erected in the town in 1794, none were buried till 1833, the first to be interred, he who conducted the first Sunday school in the town, mentioned in few words : "Sacred to the memory of John Crooks, died March 31st, 1833, aged 36. A native of Greenock, Scotland." A few military heroes and several United Empire Loyal ists found here their last resting-place. "'Sacred to the memory of Donald McDonald, of the 79th Highlanders, died 1846." " Thomas Ferguson, Eoyal Canadian Eifle Eegiment, bom in the parish of Pithenwin, Fifeshire, Scotland, died 1853." One United Empire Loyalist buried here was, when a child, a captive among the Indians for several years. "In memory of James Cooper, born in Scotland 1770, emigrated to America in 1774, died 1856, in his 86th year. Elizabeth Hixon, his wife, born in the Province of New Jersey in 1773, emigrated to Canada in 1788, died 1855, aged 82." Descendants of Captain Jacob Ball, of Butler's Eangers, are buried here — ^William M. Ball and his son, Eobert N. Ball, both office-bearers in St. Andrew's Church. A skilful physician and surgeon who, dying in Toronto, wished to be buried near old St. Andrew's, is thus com memorated : 188 HISTOEY OF NIAGAEA " In memory of Duncan Campbell, M.D., of Edinburgh, died February 4th, 1879, aged 68 years." A benefactor of the church who left a legacy of £750 is thus mentioned: " Sacred to the memory of Catharine Young, who died in 1841, aged 67. This tribute of regard is erected by the relatives of her husband, John Young, who was drowned in Lake Ontario, July 30th, 1840." 'One of the fathers of the church, who for fifty years was connected with it as an office-bearer, and was also an officer in the Lincoln Militia in 1812: "William Duff Miller, 1786—1859." A later grave is that of " John Majoribanks Lawder, for many years Judge of the County of Lincoln." Dr. Whitelaw, a distinguished scholar, who taught the Grammar School both in Niagara and Kingston, lies here, dying in 1851. Several show great age, as " John Eglesum, died 1851, aged 93," and Lachlan McPherson, who had almost attained the century limit. Next the church is an enclosure covered with fragrant lilies of the valley ; a small tablet on the wall above it has these words: "The Ministers' Burying Place." Strange to say, in the 130 years of its existence no minister of the church has been buried here ; only a small mound, that of an infant of a day, may be seen in the plot. Many names show nationality, as McFarland, McPherson, Davidson, Dawson, Logan, Swinton, Forbes, Carnochan. St. Vincent de Paul. — In early days those of the Eoman Catholic faith were buried in St. Mark's, then the only cemetery in the town. Near the church a military man with a well-known name is buried : " To the memory of Lieuten ant Adjutant Eeginald McDonnell, Eoyal Canadian Eifle Eegiment, who died at Niagara, C. W., on the 30th Decem ber, 1851, aged 39 years." In the enclosure of the MacDougal family is the grave of Colonel Daniel MacDougal, Treasurer of the United Counties of Lincoln, Welland and Haldimand for many years. He fought at Lundy's Lane and I'ay on the field all GEAVBYAEDS OF NIAGAEA 189 night, being reported as mortally wounded, but recovered, carrying in his body a bullet to his grave. His wife and her mother lie buried here, the inscriptions showing the Scottish origin, McNabb and McDonell. Mrs. Stephenson, a benevolent lady of the town, whose kind face and ready smile are not forgotten, lies buried here. In a distant corner is 'a monument to mark the grave of Patrick Lawless, the fireman of the steamer Zimmerman, burnt to death on board, the night of August 31st, 1863. Near this is a mark of filial affection. Father John Kennedy has placed this inscription to the memory of his father ; " In memoriam Bernardi Kennedy cujus anima ut Ee- quiescat in pace desiderantur fidelium suffragia mortuus est IV Kal Decembris A.D. 1857, Anno .