YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

HANDBOOK TO
[HE ENVIRONS OF LONDON,

^Ij^ahtirallg QmunQtlj,

CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF EVERY TOWN AND VILLAGE,
AND OP ALL PLACES OF INTEREST,
WITHIN A CIRCLE OP TWENTY MILES ROUND LONDON.

BY JAMBS THOENB, F.S.A.

IN TWO PARTS— PART II.

%ax\)sarx :
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1876.
Tiie Right of F>-anslation is Reserved.

BAZELL, WATSON, AND YINEV, LONDON AND AYLESKUKV.

LAMBOURNE.

411

LANGLEY MARSH.

LAMBOURNE .Essex (Dom. Lam-
turna), lies just off the Ongar road, 2J
m. from the Theydon Stat, of the Git. E.
Rly. (Ongar br.), through Abridge, and 13
m. from Wbitechapel by road. Pop. 939.
Abridge is a hamlet of Lambourne,
and contains the shops and inns. (See
Abridge.) Lambourne Churcli (St. Mary
and All Saints) stands on high ground 1
m. S.E. of Abridge and the highroad.
It has nave and chancel, with tall tiled
roofs. A short wooden tower and spire
rises from the W. end of the nave. The
N. door is Norm., but the body of the
church has been covered with plaster
inside and out, and all evidence of
antiquity hidden. The windows are
modern, and without tracery ; some frag
ments of old painted glass are apparently
Flemish. The interior is cumbered with
high pews and a gallery. Obs. mont. to
Thomas Wynyffe, the deposed Bp. of
Lincoln. Lambourne was his first living ;
and after his deprivation (1641) he re
turned to Lambourne to spend his remain
ing days, and was buried in the ch. 1654.
At the foot of the Bp.'s tomb, but with
out a mont., lies the Rev. Michael Tyson,
the antiquary, known by his etchings.
Tyson was given the living by his college
— Christ Church, Cambridge, — but died
shortly after induction (May 4, 1780).
Obs. alto-rilievo of Hope leaning on an
urn, by Wilton, on mont. of John Lock-
wood (d. 1778). Brass, with effigies, of
Robert Barefoot, citizen and mercer of
London (d. 1646), and Katherine his wife.
In tbe ch.-yard notice the fine views over
the forest and away to the Kentish hills ;
and the grand old oak on the N.
Close to the ch. is the old manor-house,
Lambourne Hall, now a farm-house.
Bishop's Sail (General W. M. Wood),
| m. S.W. of the ch., marks the site of a
residence of Henry Spenser, the warlike
Bishop of Norwich, who in 1381 defeated
John Litester and his Norfolk followers.
Patch Park (E. Eliot Eliot, Esq.) is just
beyond the rectory, 1 m. N.E. from the
ch. Knoll Hall, \{ m. S.E. of the ch., a
mansion built by the 1st Lord Portescue,
was taken down some years ago, and the
site occupied by a farm-house. Dews Hall,
i m. S. of the ch., was the seat of the
Lockwoods.
LAMORBEY, Kent (see Bexley).

LANGLEY BURY, Hekts (see
Abbot's Langley).
LANGLEY MARSH, Bucks (ane.
L. Maries and Marisli), adjoins Upton,
Horton, and Iver. The vill. is 2 m.
N.W. of Colnbrook/--' and a stat. on the
Grt. W. Rly., 164. (n. from Paddington.
Pop. 1694, including 474 in the eccl.
dist. of St. Thomas, Colnbrook, and 48
in that of Gerard's Cross.
The suffix Maries or Marish is supposed
by Lipscombto be derivedfrom Christiana
de Mariscis, who held the manor after the
Montfichets. It escheated to the Crown in
the reign of Edward I. ; and was granted
by Henry VI. to Eton College in 1447,
but resumed, and, in 1492, was assigned
by Henry VII. to Elizabeth, Queen
Consort. Henry VIII. gave it as dower,
in 1510, to his consort Katherine of
Aragon. In 1523 he granted a lease
of it for life to Henry Norres, Keeper
of the King's Woods ; and in 1540
rrade » further grant to Sir Anthony
Denny. Edward VI. granted the reversion
to Heneage and WiUoughby in 1548 ; and
in 1551 assigned the manor to the Princess
Elizabeth. Charles I., in 1626, alienated
the manor to Sir John Kederminster,
whose daughter carried it by marriage
to Sir John Parsons. Prom Parsons it
passed to Seymour, then to Masham.
In 1738 Lord Masham sold it to the
2nd Duke of Marlborough. Fifty years
later it was sold to Sir Robert Bateson
Harvey, Bart., in whose family it con
tinues. The old Manor House — about a mile
N. of the church — was pulled down by
the Duke of Marlborough about 1758,
and the present mansion, Langley Parle,
erected on the site. It is a large square
stone building, with a central pediment,
in the bald pseudo-classic taste of the
time; but is stately, commodious, and
has some noble rooms, in which are many
good pictures, and among them Reynolds's
masterpiece, Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic
Muse. The park is nearly 3 miles long,
and has an area of over 300 acres ; ia
richly wooded, contains 2 lakes, and
affords many picturesque views. The
Blaclt Park, a celebrated feature of
Langley Park, N. of the Home Park,
acquired its name from the dense fir

LANGLEY MARSH.

412

LATTON.

plantations made by Lord Blandford
about a century ago.
Langley Marsh was originally a chapelry
of Wraysbury, and though made a separate
parish, the living continued annexed to
that of Wraysbury till 1856. The popula
tion is very much scattered. The vill. is
chiefly in a line with the Rly. Stat., nearly
J m. E. of the church; but there are
several outlying hamlets, mostly Greens,
as Horsemoor Green, Sarvyers' Green,
George Green, Middle Green, Westmoor
Green, liner Green, and Langley Broom.
The Church (St. Mary) is exceedingly
interesting. It is small : of various dates,
and much of it late ; very irregular, but
withal picturesque. By it, on the S., is
an immense yew tree, much split and
decayed ; the ch.-yard is well kept, and
full of rose-trees and flowers,; on either
side of it is a group of solid-looking old
red-brick almshouses — one founded by
Sir John Kederminster, the other by a
Seymour. The church consists of a nave
and N. aisle of the Perp. period, and a
somewhat earlier chancel and N. aisle.
The chapel or manor pew and library on
the S., and the W. tower, of brick, were
built by Sir John Kederminster, between
1630-50. The nave is divided from the
aisle by wooden columns. There is a
plain oak rood screen. In the chancel
are 4 sedilia. The elevated chapel on
the S. , which is separated from the nave
by a screen of " Coade's artificial stone,"
erected in 1792, is now the manor pew.
On the front, and around the frames of
the latticed door and windows, are
admonitory Scripture texts in Latin ;
on the sides the arms of the Keder-
minsters, etc. ; and above is an eye,
with the words " Deus videt " on the
pupil. Connected with the pew is the
Library, to be noticed presently.
Monts. — A large architectural structure,
N. of the chance], in two divisions : one
to John Kederminster (d. 1553), and his
wife Elizabeth (d. 1590), with their effigies
kneeling before lecterns, on which are
open books, and beneath them 2 sons
and 3 daughters ; the other to Edmund
Kederminster, one of the six clerks of
Chancery (d. 1607), and wife (d. 1618),
kneeling effigies, with 2 sons and 6
daughters. Brass — John Bowser, " gent.
of Coole Broke in the 64th year of
his age .... and in the 50 yeare of

the peace of the Gospel in England,
1608, March ye 23;" effigy with long
beard, furred gown and ruff.
The Library, at the W. end of the
manor pew, was founded by Sir John
Kederminster. In his will, dated Feb. 22,
1631, he provides for the " library which
I have prepared and adjoined to Langley
Church," and, " for the benefit as well of
ministers of the said town, and such other
in the county of Bucks as resort thereunto,
I do appoint that those books which I have
already prepared, be there duly placed
together, with so many more as shall
amount to the sum of £20." He expressly
forbids any book to be taken out of the
library.* The room is quaint and curious. It is
comparatively spacious, panelled, painted
white, and has roughly executed but ex
pressive paintings of Prophets, Apostles,
and Scriptural Saints ; numerous inscrip
tions ; views of Windsor Castle, Theobalds,
etc. The Cardinal Virtues support a large
coat of arms over the mantelpiece; and
here again, as in the pew, is the emblem- .
atic eye and " Deus videt." The books are
enclosed in 5 presses, with panelled doors.
There are about 300 volumes, folios and
quartos, some rare and a few illuminated ;
chiefly the Fathers and early divines ; a
few medical works, and one of general
literature — ' Purchas his Pilgrims.' The
curious family receipt book, mentioned by
Lipscomb, does not appear to be now in
the collection. On the wall is a catalogue
of the books, written on vellum. My.
Charles Knight, in a pleasant notice of
the library, written alter he had been
staying a month at Langley, asks whether
John Milton may not have availed him
self of it during his 7 years' residence at
Horton. "Why not? He who wrote L" Allegro, 11
Penseroso, Lycidas, Comus, Arcades, wrote them
in his father's house at Horton, within little more
than two miles from this spot. From 1632, after
Sir John Kederminster founded this library, to
1638, when that broad vellum catalogue was hung
upon these walls, John Milton could walk over
here through pleasant fields, and pass sweet solii
tary hours in this room. " f
LATTON, Essex (Dom. Latuna),
on the borders of Hertfordshire, IJ m.
* Lipscomb, Hist, and Antiq. of the County of.
Bucks, vol. iv., p. 542. J
t Passages of a Working Life, vol. iii., p, 170.

LAVER, HIGH.

413

LAVER, HIGH.

S.W. from Harlow town (across Mark
Hall Park), and 1£ m. from Harlow Rly.
Stat. : pop. 225.
Latton consists of a few scattered farms
and cottages, and a church standing by a
stately mansion (Mark Hall, Miss Ark-
wright), far away from the other dwell
ings. Standing in the park, on high
ground amidst fine trees, the little Church
(St. John the Baptist) looks picturesque,
but is not architecturally remarkable. It
is Perp. in style, and consists of a nave
and chancel, a chapel on the N. used as
the manorial pew, and a large sq. tower
on theW., withan angle turret terminating
at the belfry floor in a tiled roof ; much
mended with brick, and, like the body of
the ch., rough-cast. The int. has been
renovated and reseated, and the E. window
filled with painted glass. Of the many
monts., the most noteworthy is one on the
S. wall of the chancel, with small kneeling
effigies of a knight and lady. Brasses :
Sir Peter Arderne, Chief Baron of the
Exchequer, d. 1467, and wife ; John
Bohun, d. 1485, and wife; of about the
same period, or a little later, a man and
his wife, 3 sons, and a daughter ; a priest
with a chalice, and one or two more. In
the ch.-yard, E. of the chancel, obs. a
marble cross to Vice- Chancellor Sir James
Wigram, d. July 29, 1866, st. 72, and
wife ; and contiguous to it a massive
polished red granite cross to Joseph
Cotton Wigram, Bp. of Rochester, d.
April 6, 1867, set. 69.
A small Augustinian priory was founded
here before 1270, but it never rose into
importance. Part of the priory church,
Dec. in style, now serves as a barn.
Latton Priory Farm, as it is called, is
about 3 m. S. of Latton, and \ m. W. of
the Epping road, at Randalls.
LAVER, HIGH, Essex, the
burial-place of John Locke, is about 5 m.
N. by W. from the Ongar Rly. Stat, of the
Grt. E. Rly., through Bobbingworth and'
Moreton : pop. 497.
High Laver is a quiet country vill. in
a secluded part of the county, far from
any main road, and about midway be
tween Ongar and Harlow. The occupa
tions are agricultural. There are no
resident gentry, but the farms look flou
rishing, the cottages comfortable, and the
country pleasant.

Otes, a manor-house in High Lave»
par., was in 1690 the seat of Sir Francis
Masham, M.P., when Locke, failing in
health, and unable to withstand the win
ters of London, at their invitation, " took
up his abode with Sir Francis and Lady
Masham at Otes, where he was perfectly
at home, and enjoyed the society most
agreeable to him." * Lady Masham,
daughter of Cudworth, the author of the
Intellectual System, and a woman of un
common intellectual powers, held Locke
in great reverence, and devoted herself to
solace his last hours. Locke died at Otes,
Oct. 28, 1704. The house, a moated Tudor
mansion, about a mile N.W. of the ch.,
continued to be the family seat till the
death of the last Lord Masham in 1776.
It was pulled down in 1804.
High Laver Church (All Saints) stands
high on the side of a cross road, by the
Hall, of old the manor-house, now a farm.
It is of undressed flints and sandstone,
and consists of nave and chancel, tower
at the W. with short octagonal spire, and
a wooden porch at the S.W. The nave is
Perp., the chancel has lancet windows,
and the W. window is Dec. ; but the
church was restored throughout in 1865-6,
and lost at once its old rusticity, and all
evidences of antiquity : the windows and
the tower are in the main new. The int.,
plain but neat, has been fitted with low
seats, and the principals of the roof ex
posed. Locke was buried in a vault in the ch.-
yard, close to the S. porch. A thick blue
slab, on an altar-tomb, bears his name,
and the dates of his birth and death (b.
Aug. 29, 1632 ; d. Oct. 28, 1704). On the
ch. wall above the tomb is a black marble
slab, with a long Latin inscription to his
memory, written by himself some three or
four years before his decease.f Locke's
tomb was restored, and enclosed within a
Gothic railing, by Christ Church College,
Oxford, in 1866. E. of the ch., close to
the chancel, are tombs like Locke's of his
friends Sir Francis and Lady Masham,
Lord Masham, and Lady Abigail Masham
— the Mrs. Masham of Swift's correspond
ence, Queen Anne's bedchamber-woman,
* Lord King, Life of Locke, p. 251, Bonn's ed.
t King, Life of Locke, p. 2611 Lord King
states erroneously that the epitaph was " placed
upon his tomb ; " the tcmb and epitaph are wide
apart.

LAVER, LITTLE.

414

LEATHERHEAD.

favourite, and mistress, Sarah of Marl
borough's foe, and Harley and Boling-
broke's confederate. In all there are 10
or 12 of the Masham tombs, almost ex
actly alike, clustered about the E. end of
High Laver Church.
LAYER, LITTLE, Essex, con
tiguous to and on the E. of High Laver —
the churches are 1 m. apart — is another
thinly peopled agricultural parish (27
houses and 104 inh. in 1871). The village,
hardly a village, — half a dozen cottages,
shop, farm, and the Leather Bottle — are
on the highroad, midway between the
churches of the sister parishes. Little
Laver Church (St. Mary the Virgin), still
small, was enlarged as well as elaborately
restored in 1872, at the cost of the patron
of the living, the Rev. Rd. Palmer, of
Puiley , Berks, as a memorial of his brother,
the Rev. Henry Palmer, the late rector.
The int. has been handsomely fitted up,
and stone pulpit, substantial open oak
seats, and carved font erected.
LAVER, MAGDALEN, Essex,
about 1 m. W. of High Laver, a vill. of
175 inh., is so called from the ch., which
is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and
to distinguish it from High and Little
Laver. Magdalen Laver Church stands
in the open fields, among finely formed
and luxuriant trees, and consists of Perp.
rough-cast nave and chancel, with tall
red-tiled roofs, and old and battered
wooden W. tower, painted black, and
terminating in a gabled roof. The int. is
plain, plastered, has high pews, and is
kept in excellent condition. A slender
oak screen divides the nave and chancel.
Obs. the helmet with dragon crest sus
pended against the wall, and the hooks
for 3 other helmets. The font is Perp.,
of fair details. The heads of some of the
windows contain fragments of original
painted glass.
LAVERSTOCK GREEN, Hebts
(see Abbot's Langley).
LEATHERHEAD, Surrey, on
the river Mole, 3^ m. S.W. from Epsom,
4 m. N. from Dorking, and 18 m. from
London by road ; a stat. on the Croydon
and Dorking br. of the L., B., and S. C.

Rly. (22f m.), and the terminus of the
Wimbledon and Leatherhead br. of the
L. and S.W. Rly. (21 m.) Pop. 2455.
Inns, Swan hotel ; Bull commercial inn.
The present form of the name has been
reached by slow steps. In the will of
Alfred the Great is a bequest to the
" custos de Leodre " ; and it again occurs
as Leodria. In the Dom-boc it is written
Laret. In the Testa de Nevill, it occurs
(temp. Richard I.) as Lerred. In 1203
it is written Ledred, and so on with
variations as Leddered and Ledredc, till
in the 15th century we have " Ledered
alias Leatherhcd," a close approximation
to the present form.* The conjectures
that have been offered as to the origin of
the name seem of little value. Possibly it
may be connected with A.-S. leod, people,
and red, counsel = a place of meeting.
At the Domesday Survey, the king held
the church of Leret, with 40 acres Of land,
as an adjunct of Ewell ; whilst Odo, Bp.
of Bayeux, held the principal manor of
Pechevesham, and Richard de Tonbridge
that of Tornecrosta (Thorncroft). The
subsequent history of these two manors
is intricate, and of no general interest;
nor does it afford any incidents which
require relation. Both manors still exist.
Pachensham and Leatherhead, as the first
is now called, is in private hands. Thorn
croft is held by Merton College, Oxford ;
Philip Basset and his wife, Ela, Countess
Dowager of Warwick, having in 1270
given it, with other lands, to Walter de
Merton for the endowment of the college
he had founded at Maiden, and which was
afterwards removed to Oxford, f
The town stands on the rt. bank of the
Mole, at the foot of the beautiful Vale of
Mickleham, which extends hence to Dork
ing. The ground rises somewhat steeply
from the Mole, many of the houses being
built on a series of irregular terraces^
The shops are mostly collected about the
crossing of the Guildford and Dorking
roads, and in the centre stands a steep-
roofed clock and engine-house. Several of
the houses are old, and some picturesque ;
but the picturesqueness of the place as a
whole, formerly very marked, has been
almost improved away of late years At

of'surr™™8 and BrayS' and BrWley's Histories
t Bray ley, Surrey, vol. iv., p. 4S0.

LEATHERHEAD.

415

LEATHERHEAD.

one time Leatherhead was of some local
consequence. The sheriff's county court
was held here, and a market was granted
it by Edward III. Long after these had
departed, and down to the railway epoch,
Leatherhead had a large posting business.
Now the town depends on its local trade,
and is a very quiet place.
The Guildford road is carried over the
Mole by a bridge of 14 arches. On the
town side of the bridge is a rude timber-
framed house (but much altered) known
- as the Old Running Horse, which, accord
ing to a tradition reaching very far back,
was the ale-house of Skelton's Elynour
Rummyng, who
" Dwelt in Pothray,
In a certain stede,
Besyde Lederhede . . .
She breweth noppy ale,
And maketh thereof port sale." *
The Church (St. Mary and St. Nicholas)
stands on high ground on the 1. of the
road to Mickleham. A large rambling
cruciform building, with a long chancel,
and low massive W. tower, it is chiefly of
the 14th century, but the old work was
much altered in the recent restoration.
The E. window is Dec, the larger window
in the S. transept Perp. ; both are filled
with painted glass : that in the E. window
was collected at Rouen by the Rev. Jas.
Dallaway. In the latest restoration
(1873) open oak seats were substituted
for the old pews, the W. gallery was re
moved, the chancel paved with encaustic
tiles, and an elaborate reredos erected.
S. of the chancel are three sedilia and a
piscina. The monts. are not remarkable.
They commemorate, among others, Ad
miral Jas. Wishart, d. 1723; Adm. Rd.
Byron, d. 1837 ; Lieut.-Gen. Langton, d.
1714; Lt.-Gen. H. Gore, d. 1739 ; Rev.
James Dallaway, author of the ' History
of Sussex,' of ' Anecdotes of the Arts in
England,' and of a work on Heraldry
— all of very little value — who died here in
1834, vicar of Leatherhead for 30 years ;
Richard Duppa, author of the ' Life of
Michel Angelo,' d. 1831 ; and Lt.-Col.
Drinkwater Bethune, d. 1844, who, when
Captain Drinkwater, wrote the ' History
of the Siege of Gibraltar,' that stirs the
heart like a trumpet. There is also a
* Skelton, The Tunning of Elenour Rummyng,
Works, vol. i., p. 98.— Dyce's Ed.

brass plate to " fryndly Robartt Gardnar,"
d. 1571, with a long poetic inscription by
Q. Elizabeth's court poet, Thomas Church
yard. The tower contains a good peal of
8 bells ; an excellent view* is obtained
from the leads.
On the Epsom road is St. John's
Foundation Scliool, a spacious red-brick
Elizabethan building completed in 1873,
for the gratuitous instruction of the sons
of poor clergymen. The institution was
founded in 1850, at St. John's Wood, but
having outgrown its original domicile, the
present building was erected for the ac
commodation of 100 boys.
The principal seats are — Randall Park
(Mrs. Henderson) on the N.W. of the
town, the Manor-house of Pachensham,
a Tudor mansion erected in 1829, when
the old house, which stood on lower
ground and nearer the river, was taken
down. Thorncroft (Mrs. Knight) on the
1. bank of the Mole, S.E. of the town,
was built in 1772, from a design by Sir
Robert Taylor. Its predecessor was the
residence of (and is said to have been
built by) Robert Gardnar, chief sergeant
of the cellar to Q. Elizabeth, whose montt
we saw in Leatherhead ch. ; and of Aid. Sir
Thos. Bludworth, Knt., and Lord Mayor
in 1666, the year of the Great Fire, and
who was buried in Leatherhead ch. The
present house was long the residence
of Col. Drinkwater-Bethune. The Man
sion, on the rt. bank of the Mole near the
eh., occupies the site of one that was the
property of Aid. Bludworth, and an occa
sional residence of Judge Jeffreys, who
married Bludworth's sister. There is a
tradition that when proscribed at the
Revolution of 1688, Jeffreys concealed
himself in the vaults of this house. The
present house was built about 1710. The
Priory (Arthur T. Miller, Esq.), very
pleasantly situated on a high bank, on the
same side of the river, was originally
called the Lyn U House, from its being held
by the tenure of providing a link to
burn before the altar of St. Nicholas in
Leatherhead ch. The house was enlarged,
gothicized, and named The Priory at the
suggestion of the Rev. Jas. Dallaway, who
had concocted a history of a fictitious
Cistercian Priory on the site.
Leatherhead Common, a large and plea
sant piece of wild heath on the E. of the
town, was enclosed in 1862.

LEE.

416

LEWISHAM.

LEAVESDEN, Herts (see Wat
ford). LEE, Kent, lies S. of Blackheath,
and between Lewisham and Eltham ; l^m.
S.E. of Greenwich, and 6 m. from London.
Rly. stats., Burnt Ash Lane, on the Loop-
line of the S.E. Rly. ; Grove Park, on the
L. C. and D. Rly. (Sevenoaks and Tunbridge
line). Pop. 10,493 (dist. of mother-ch.,
4052 ; Lee Park, 3852 ; Holy Trinity,
1980 ; part of St. Peter, Eltham, 609).
Lee is a large suburban parish, and its
convenient distance, the pleasantness of
the neighbourhood, and the proximity of
Blackheath, have made it a favourite
place of residence with City merchants
and men of business, for whose accom-
dation every available piece of ground
has been appropriated. Parks (Lee Park,
Manor Park, Dacre Park, Belmont Park,
Grove Park, etc.), in which the houses
are not too closely packed, mingling with
the terraces of detached and semi-detached
villas and genteel cottages, and a sprink
ling of older houses in good-sized grounds,
secure the place from the cheerless mono
tony of some suburban districts, but leave
little to interest a visitor. Nor has the
place any historical associations. The
manor of Lee (it was written in the Dbm-
boc as it is written now) was one of those
given by the Conqueror to his half-brother
Odo, Bp. of Bayeux ; and it has been, with
its sub-manors, as frequently transferred
as most — but the details are quite devoid
of interest.
The old parish Church (St. Margaret)
having become dilapidated, was, with the
exception of a portion of the tower, taken
down and a new one built in 1840. This
in a few years became too small, or too
modest, for the increased congregation,
and a larger and more elaborate Dec. ch.,
with a lofty spire, was built on an adjacent
site. The old ch.-yard, well-kept and
pleasant to look upon, is the last resting-
place of some men of mark. Here was
interred, 1742, Edmund Halley, according
to the insc. on his tomb " astronomorum
sui sasculi facile princeps ;" and if Newton
be omitted this might be said with truth.
Nathaniel Bliss, who succeeded Bradley
as Astronomer Royal, was also buried
here, 1764. Among the tombs, are several
of theFludyer, Boone, and Roper families.

Aid. Sir Sam. Fludyer entertained George
III. and Q. Charlotte at the Guildhall,
with great state, on occasion of his
mayoralty, 1761. Trevor Roper, Baron
Dacre, d. 1773, and his wife Mary Jane,
daughter of Sir Thos. Fludyer, are com
memorated in a very long and eulogistic
inscription. William Parsons, the come
dian, a noted Dogberry, and the original
Sir Fretful Plagiary, d. 1796, has a brief
epitaph, in verse, that tells
' ' He science knew, knew manners, knew the age. " -
Margaret Hughes, probably the handsome
actress and mistress of Prince Rupert (see
Brandenburgh House, Hammersmith),
was buried "from Eltham, Oct. 15, 1719."
John Charnock, F.S.A. (d. 1807), author
of the ' Biographia Navalis,' 6 vols., 8vo,
and ' Life of Nelson.' Samuel Purchas is
said to have written the greater part of
his ' Pilgrims ' at Lee.
Other churches in Lee are- — Christ
Church, Lee Park, a neat E.E. building
erected in 1855; and Holy Trinity, Bel-
grave Villas, a more pretentious E.E.
cruciform structure, of Kentish rag and
Bath-stone, completed in 1864 from the
designs of Mr. W. S. Barber. St. Peter's,
Eltham Road, belongs to Eltham rather
than to Lee.
The Merchant Taylors Almshouses, for
widows of freemen of the company, at
the junction of Brandram Road with the
High Road, consists of a range of 30
comfortable-looking houses, within plea
sant and well-kept grounds. The Boone
Almshouses, near Lee Green, were rebuilt
in 1874.
LEITH HILL, Surrey (see
Dorking). LEMSFORD MILLS, Herts (see
Hatfield).

LESNESS,
Wood).

Kent (see Abbey

LEWISHAM, Kent (Dom. Leves-
ham), a large suburban village and parish,
5 m. from London, and 1 m. S. of Green
wich, is situated on the Ravensbourne,
the vill. extending for more than 2 m.
along the Bromley road. Stats, of the
S.E. Rly. ; Junction Stat, for North Kent

LEWISHAM.

417

LEWISHAM.

and Mid- Kent Unes, Lewisham bridge ;
for Mid- Kent, Catford Bridge; Lady-
Mell, near the par. ch. ; for the L. C. and D.
Rly., Len-isltam Road. Pop. of par. 36,525,
but this includes 8 separated eccl. dists.,
embracing Blackheath, Brockley, and
Sydenham: Lewisham proper had 9387
inhabitants in 1871.
Lying along the valley of the Ravens-
bourne, with the country rising gently on
either side into low uplands, Lewisham
was only a few years ago a pleasant rural
district, but it has fallen a prey to the
builder, and has become much Uke any
other suburban village. It still, however,
retains a few good old houses.
iElthruda, niece of Alfred, about the
year 900, gave the manor of Lewisham to
the abbey of St. Peter in Ghent. A cell,
known as Lewisham Priory, of the Bene
dictine order, was in consequence esta
blished here. Kilburne says that it was
founded, temp. Henry III., by Sir John
Merbury ; but it is more probable that
he added to its endowments, and thus
became its second founder. Though
sometimes endangered, it lasted till the
suppression of alien priories at the be
ginning of the reign of Henry V. It was
then transferred, 1414, with the manor, to
the priory of Sheen. It reverted to the
Crown with the other conventual property
in 1538 ; and was granted for his life to
Thomas Lord Seymour in 1547. Edward
VI. gave it to John Duke of Northumber
land, on whose execution, in 1553, it
reverted to the Crown, but was by Q.
Elizabeth granted, 1563, to Northumber
land's brother, Sir Ambrose Dudley, for
his life. James I. gave the manor in
1624 to John Earl of Holderness. In
1664 it was sold to Reginald Grahme, who
9 years later conveyed it to Admiral
George Legge, afterwards created Baron
Dartmouth. His son, William, was in
1711 created Viscount Lewisham and
Earl of Dartmouth, and the manor is
now the property of his descendant,
William Earl of Dartmouth. Billingham,
Catford, and Sydenham are manors in
Lewisham par.
In the Chamberlain's papers for 1602
is the entry, " On May-day the Queen
[Elizabeth] went a-Maying to Sir Richard
Buckley's at Lewisham, some three or
four miles off Greenwich." Bulkeley's
house was probably on the Sydenham side

of Lewisham, where is Oak of Honour
Hill, so named, according to the local
tradition, from Q. Elizabeth having sat
beneath the oak on its summit when she
came hither a-maying.
The old parish Church (St. Mary) was
taken down in 1774, and the present ch.
erected on its site. It is a plain oblong
structure, of stone, with a shallow semi
circular recess instead of a chancel, at
the E. end, a portico of 4 Corinthian
columns on the S., and a square tower,
the lower part of which is ancient, at the
W. end. A brass to George Hatteclyffi,
1514, is the only old memorial of any
interest. Two or three of the l&termonts.
should be examined. Tablet on E. wall
to Mary, daughter of William Lushington,
Esq., d. 1797, set. 16 : rilievo by Flax-
man of an angel pointing the mourning
mother to the text inscribed above,
" Blessed are they that mourn," etc., and
a poetical epitaph by Hayley. At the W.
end (N. of the organ) a tablet to Anne,
wife of John Petrie, d. 1787 : rilievo of
her death-bed, with her husband and
children beside it. South of the organ is
a companion tablet to Margaret, relict of
the Rev. Robert Petrie, d. 1791, with a
very fine rilievo by Banks, representing
Mrs. Petrie dying in the arms of Religion,
and supported by Faith and Hope.
Another tablet to a, member of the
Thackeray family has a bas-relief by
Baily. In the ch.-yard is a mont. with
some verses from his own ' Fate of Genius,'
to the unfortunate young poet, Thomas
Dermody, who was buried here July 20,
1802. Nine more churches are in the parish,
but only two of them are in LewiBham
proper. St. Stephen's was built and en
dowed in 1865 by the Rev. S. Russell
Davies. It was designed by Sir G. Gilbert
Scott, and is an elegant and carefully fin
ished example of his favourite style of E.E.
St. Mark the Evangelist, College Park, is
a handsome Dec. building, erected in 1870
from the designs of Mr. W. C. Banks. It
serves a rapidly growing district of villas,
which has already, besides the ch., Con
gregational and Wesleyan chapels of more
than average architectural character.
Lewisham Grammar School was founded
and endowed by the Rev. Abraham Colfe,
vicar of Lewisham, in 1656, for 31 boys;
the Leathersellers' Company being con-
27

LEYTON.

418

LEYTON.

stituted trustees for carrying the bequest
into effect. The intentions of the founder
were extended by a scheme settled by the
Court of Chancery in 1857. The founda
tion includes an upper or Endowed
Grammar School on Lewisham Hill, and
a lower school, known as the Leather-
sellers' School, in the village.
Mr. Colfe also left funds for building
and endowing 5 almshouses for poor godly
housekeepers of the parish, above 60 years
of age, and able to say the Creed, the
Lord's Prayer, and the Ten Command
ments. These almshouses still exist, and
others have been lately erected in the
village, under the will of Mr. John
Thackeray, for 6 poor females, who in
addition to apartments receive 10«. each
weekly. Rushey Green is a hamlet on the
Bromley road, now in effect a southern
extension of Lewisham village. Here are
the Hatcliffe Almshouses for 6 poor per
sons. Priory Farm, at the S. end of
Bushey Green, occupies the site of the
Benedictine priory mentioned above.
Southend, IJ m. S. of Rushey Green, is
the most rural part of Lewisham. Here
are several good residences (The Hall,
Sam. Forster, Esq. ; Park House, C. W.
Slee, Esq. ; Warren House, Col. S. Long,
etc.) ; a chapel-of-ease, built and endowed
by the late John Porster, Esq.; a large
and somewhat picturesque flour-mill on
the Ravensbourne, which here runs close
to the road ; and a country inn, the Tiger's
Head. Catford and Catford Bridge, on the
Ravensbourne, \ m. E. of Rushey Green,
and Hither Green, \ m. E. of the village,
are other hamlets of Lewisham. Perry
Vale (or Perry Slough, where Dermody
died) belongs to Sydenham.

LEYTON, or LOW LEYTON,
Essex, on the Epping road, and to the
* E. of the river Lea, about midway (2 m.)
between Stratford and Walthamstow, and
5\m. from Whitechapel ch. The Leyton
Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Epping and
Ongar br.) is nearly a mile from the ch.
Pop. 6480 : the entire par., which is very
large, and includes Leytonstone, contained
10,394 inhab. in 1871.
Low Leyton is a long straggling vill.,
built for the most part on ground slightly

raised above the marshes which border
the Lea. It is to its proximity to this
river that Leyton is supposed to owe its
name. "Layton, or Leyton," writes Nor-
den, " a town upon Ley." This is gene
rally accepted, yet it is hardly borne out
by the form of its name in the Dom.
Survey, Leintuma, Leintwn.
Traces of a circular entrenchment 100
ft. in diameter, within a nearly square
rampart and outer fosse, at Ruckholt,
about 1 m. S. of Leyton ch., indicate the
presence of an early British settlement ;
and the somewhat extensive lines of walls
and foundations of buildings, fragments
of pottery, and imperial and consular
coins, found at Ruckholt, and near the
Manor House, show that there must have
been a Roman establishment of some
size : though Dvrolitum, with which some
antiquaries have sought to identify
Leyton, is now placed in the neighbour
hood of Romford. The manor of Leyton
belonged to the Abbey of Stratford
Langthorne from about 1200 to the
Dissolution. In 1545 it was granted to
Lord Chancellor Wriothesley, who, how
ever, sold it immediately, and it has since
been often transferred, and a good deal
subdivided. As elsewhere the fields have been much
encroached on; but much land is still
under culture as market gardens and
nursery grounds, and large quantities of
roots and flowers are grown for Covent
Garden Market. Potatoes are cultivated
extensively, and the marshes afford good
grass and pasture. Formerly Low Leyton
was the residence of many great City
merchants, and other wealthy personages.
These have mostly retreated farther from
the capital ; but several of the solid old
mansions are left.
Low Leyton Church (St. Mary) is a
plain brick and plaster structure, of
which no part is older than the last half
of the 17th cent., and which was in a
great measure rebuilt in 1821 — the tower,
which was built about 1660, alone being
left untouched. But though the ch. is
ugly and poor, it contains several interest
ing monts. That indefatigable antiquary
John Strype was minister of Low Leyton
for 68 years (1669—1737), and till within
two or three years of his death continued
punctually to perform his ecclesiastical
duties, although he had never received

LEYTON.

419

LEYTON.

institution or induction.* He died at his
granddaughter's house at Hackney, Deo.
11, 1737, set. 94, and was buried in the
chancel of Leyton ch. His grave is
marked by a plain stone, but this has
been covered over by the new floor of the
chancel. S. of the chancel is a mont. of Sir
Michael Hickes, d. 1612, secretary to Lord
Burleigh, and friend of Bacon, Raleigh,
and Camden ; with life-size alabaster
effigies of the knight in armour, and of his
widow in mourning habit. On the N.
wall an elaborate mont. of Sir Wm.
Hickes, Bart., d. 1680 ; his son, Sir Wm.
Hickes, d. 1702 ; and Marthagnes, wife
of Sir Wm. Hickes the younger, d. 1723.
On the mont. are marble effigies of the
father, recumbent, in a Roman habit, with
baton in rt. hand as Lieut, of the Forest
of Waltham, and on one side the son in a
Roman habit, on the other Lady Marthag
nes, both standing. On the S. wall is a
brass plate to Lady Mary Kingston, d.
1557, with rhyming inscription —
"If you wyll the truythe have
Here lyethe in thys grave,
Dyrectly under thys stone,
Good Lady Mary Kyngestone,
*Who departed this world, the truth to say,
In tha month of August, the xv day ;
And, as I do well remember,
Was buryed honorably 4 day of September,"
etc.
In the nave are monts. of "the most
accomplished cavalier, and right valiant
commander, Charles Goring, Baron of
Hurst Perpoint and Earl of Norwich,"
d. 1670 ; of Aid. Sir Richard Hawkins,
d. 1735 ; and of many members of the
families of Bosanquet, Hawes, Trench,
etc. But one that will have more interest
is a tablet to William Bowyer (d. 1737),
the learned printer, with a long Latin
epitaph, by his pupil and partner the
elder Nichols, who erected the memorial.
Brass (small) of Ursula Gaspar, d. 1493.
One of Tobias Wood, wife and 12 children,
is no longer in its place. The ch.-yard
abounds in tombs of local celebrities,
among which perhaps the most noticeable
is one on the N.E. of the ch. of Sir John
Strange, Master of the Rolls, d. 1754,
author of two folio volumes of Reports,
whose worth is commemorated in an
immensely long insc, as well as on a
tablet in the ch. Among the tombs is that
* Lysons, vol. i., p. 681.

of David Lewis, d. 1700, author of ' Philip
of Macedon, a Tragedy,' and the friend of
Pope. Sir Thomas Roe, or Rowe, the
Oriental traveller, sent by Q. Elizabeth,
1614, on an embassy to the Great Mogul,
of which, and of his embassy to Constanti
nople, he published an account, was a
native of Leyton. Thomas Lodge, the
Shakspearian poet, dates his ' Wit's
Miserie,' 1596, " from my house at Low
Layton, this 5th of November, 1595."
A. second ch., All Saints, was conse
crated in Jan. 1865. It is of brick and
stone, cruciform, with a long narrow
chancel, S. and W. porches, low walls, and
high-pitched roofs ; Dec. in style, and
the E. window, of 5 lights and rather
elaborate tracery, filled with painted
glass : archt., Mr. W. Wigginton.
In the Lea Bridge Road are the Alms
houses of the Master Bakers' Pension
Society. There are also parochial alms
houses, a low range of single-roomed
tenements by the ch.-yard, founded by
John Smith, merchant, in 1656, for 8
poor persons.
Among the old mansions remaining aTe
— Etloe House, built by Edward Mores the
antiquary, and founder of the Equitable
Assurance Society, in 1760, and his resi
dence till his death in 1778. It stands in
Church Lane, about J m. N.W. of the ch.,
by a lane which leads to the Lea, and is a
rather peculiar white-fronted building,
standing in a good garden, and is now
chiefly noteworthy as having been during
the last years of his life the residence of
Cardinal Wiseman. Leyton House, a
short distance beyond Etloe House, is the
fine seat of W. L. Gurney, Esq., noted
for its grounds. Ruckholt House, J m.
S. of the ch., was the stately mansion of
the Hickes family. In 1742 and follow
ing years it was opened as a place of
public entertainment, of the kind noticed
under Hampstbad (Belsize House), and
Islewoeth (Kendal House). Ruckholt
House was taken down about 1757. The
present Ruckholt House (J. Tyler, Esq.)
is a moderate-sized modern house.
At Knott's Green, a hamlet of Leyton,
\\ m. N.E. from the ch. on the road to
Snaresbrook, is the seat of G. Gurney
Barclay, Esq., locally famous for its
grounds and gardens, and in the scientific
world for its Observatory, in whi-^.h. under
the management of Mr. C. G. Taimage,

LEYTONSTONE.

420

LIMPSFIELD.

excellent work has been accomplished.
Here also is the seat of Edward Master-
man, Esq.
Park House, another fine old mansion,
has, by the addition of a new wing and
other alterations, been converted into the
St. Agnes Roman Catholic Poor Law
School. Lea Bridge, where are a stat. of the
Grt. E. Rly., some good nursery grounds,
reservoirs of the East London Water
Works, a favourite fishing house, and a
large number of new villas and cottages,
is another hamlet. The mills at Temple
Mills, on the Lea, \\ m. S.W. from Leyton
ch. by Ruckholt, by some imagined to
occupy the site of mills belonging to the
Knights Templars, have given place to
works of the East London Water Com
pany. LEYTONSTONE, Essex, a ham
let of Low Leyton, from which it is
about 1 m. W., stretches for a consider
able distance along the Epping road, and
is about 2 m. N. of Stratford. The Ley-
tonstone Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Epping
and Ongar line) is close to the ch. Pot).
of the eccl. dist. 4914, but this includes
1205 in public institutions.
Leytonstone is pleasantly situated on
the edge of Epping Forest, with Wan-
stead on one side, Snaresbrook on another.
In itself it has become a long street of
small villas and cottages, with a few
older and better houses standing apart in
their well-timbered grounds. Here is a
very large nursery (Protheroe's), noted
for standard roses and other choice
flowers, and ornamental trees and ever
greens. The public institutions above
referred to include the large West Ham
Union Workhouse, which had 784 inmates
in 1871 ; the Bethnal Green Industrial
School, with nearly 400 inmates ; and a
Children's Home. Here too is a Roman
Catholic Cemetery.
The Church, St. John the Baptist, is a
white brick and stone building, E.E. of
the year 1843 ; poor in details, with a
tall W. tower surmounted with pinnacles
at the angles. The int. is neat and com
modious, and the triple lancet in the
chancel is filled with painted glass.
LIMPSFIELD, Surrey, a plea
santly situated agric. vill. on the borders

of Kent, and on the road from Godstone
to Westerham, 4 m. from the former, 3 m.
from the latter place : pop. 1292.
At the Dom. Survey, Limensfeld was
held by the Abbot of Batailge, it being
one of the manors with which the Con
queror endowed his newly founded Battle
Abbey. Besides the arable land, there,
were in the manor a mill, a fishery, and
a church ; 25 villans, 6 bordarii, and 10
bondsmen. In the woods, pannage for
150 swine; 3 eyries of hawks, and 2 stone
quarries. The manor was held by the
abbey till the Dissolution ; it was then
granted to Sir John Gresham, in whose
descendants it continued till the death of
Sir Marmaduke Gresham in 1742. It was
bought by Bourchier Cleeve in 1760,
after whose death in 1760 it several
times changed owners, till in 1779 it
was purchased by Sir John Gresham,
the son of Sir Marmaduke. Having thus
returned to the Gresham family, it went
by the marriage of Sir John's daughter
and heiress to Wm. Leveson Gower, Esq.,
and is now the property of G. W. G.
Leveson Gower, Esq.
Aubrey praises the " delicate air " of the
neighbourhood, and it is a very pleasant
country. The vill. extends N. and E.
from Limpsfield Common — large, pictu
resque, and broken by clumps of firs. A
large house in the centre of the village,
by the ch., was the property and resi
dence of Mrs. Eugenia Stanhope, widow
of Philip Stanhope, natural son of Philip
Earl of Chesterfield. She it was who
after her husband's death gave to the
world Lord Chesterfield's celebrated
' Letters to his Son.'
The Church (St. Peter) consists of a
nave and S. aisle, a double chancel, and
tower, with a short shingled spire at the
E. end of the S. aisle. The tower is in
part Norm. ; the body of the ch. E.E.,
with Perp. windows inserted. The whole
was thoroughly restored in 1871, chiefly
at the expense of Mr. G. W. G. Leveson
Gower. In the principal chancel are a
piscina and sedilia ; in the tower a holy
water stoup. The font is E.E., a square
basin on a thick central and 4 smaller
angle shafts. In the chancel is a tablet
to Eugenia Stanhope, relict of Philip
Stanhope, d. 1783. Against the exterior
of the W. wall of the ch. is a large mont.
to John, 13th Baron Elphinstone, d. 1860.

LITTLETON.

421

LONDON COLNEY.

and his uncle, the Hon. Mountstuart
Elphinstone, d. 1859. In the ch.-yard
are two good yew trees. The entrance is
by a lich-gate.
Hookwood, in richly timbered grounds,
near the ch., was of old the seat of the
Greshams, but was taken down and tho
present house built on the site by Vin
cent Biscoe, Esq., about 1810; it is now
the residence of C. N. Wilde, Esq. Tench-
leys (formerly Tinsley) Park (S. Teulon,
Esq.) is a short distance from the vill. ;
Moor House (Mrs. Brandreth) is 2 m. E. ;
Trevereux (H. Cox, Esq.) is a large and
stately old mansion standing in a fine
park at the S.W. extremity of the par.
LITTLE BERKHAMSTEAD,
Herts (see Berkhamstead, Little).
LITTLE ILFORD, Essex (see
Ilford, Little).
LITTLE STANMORE, Middx.
(see Stakmore Parva).
LITTLETON, Middx., an agric.
village, 1 m. N. of Shepperton Rly. Stat.
(Thames Valley line), and 16 m. S.W.
from Hyde Park Corner ; pop. 166. The
little village — there are only 28 houses in
the par. — Ses somewhat over a mile from
the Thames, in the midst of a level but
pleasant district.
The Church (St. Mary Magdalen) stands
on the vill. side of Littleton Park. It
oomprises nave, aisles, and deep chancel,
and a square embattled W. tower. The
main fabric is E.E., but the clerestorey
and some of the windows are Perp. addi
tions. The upper part of the tower is
modern. The brick mausoleum on the N.
of the chancel was constructed for the
Wood family towards the end of the 18th
cent. The interior shows the original
and added parts better than the exterior.
Obs. the cylindrical piers in the nave,
the obtuse arches on either side, the
lancets in the chancel, and the window
for lighting the rood-loft. In the chancel
is a brass, Blanche, wife of Sir Henry
Vaughan, d. 1509. The font is E.E., and
has an octagonal bowl on a thick round
stem. Notice the finely carved cover.
Littleton Park (Thos. Wood, Esq.) has
been the seat of the Wood family for
two centuries. The mansion is large and

stately, and has a noble saloon and other
spacious rooms, in which are some good
pictures, including Hogarth's Actors
Dressing in a Barn (with the artist's
receipt for the purchase-money). The
late Lieut-General Wood entertained the
Prince of Wales, Prince Hohenlohe, etc.,
here, March 28th, 1866.
LONDON COLNEY, Herts, a
large village on the river Colne (here a
mere brook), from which it derives its
name, and on the main northern road ;
3 m. S. of St. Albans, and 17J- m. from
London. London Colney and the hamlet
of Tittenhanger, being portions of the
parishes of St. Peter (St. Albans), St.
Stephen, Ridge, and Shenley, were in 1826
constituted the eccl. district of St. Peter
Colney, and had 843 inhab. in 1871. The
ch., a plain square modern building, stands
in the centre of the village. The ground
ishigh(238 ft. above the Ordnance datum),
the neighbourhood picturesque, and there
are pleasant walks to Colney Street, 1£ m.
W., Radlett (the nearest rly. stat. 3 m.),
Shenley, and Mimms.
The hamlet of Tittenhanger, about 1 m.
N.E. of Tittenhanger Park, the fine seat
and park of the Countess of Caledon, lies
to the E. of London Colney. The manor
belonged to St. Albans Abbey, and, ac
cording to Chauncy, John de la Moote,
abbot from 1396 to 1401, "began a fair
mansion at Tittenhanger, where he and
his successors might retire for their ease
and pleasure, and recreate themselves with
their friends and relations, but died before
he could finish the same." * It was how
ever finished, and on a larger and richer
scale, by his successor, John of Whetham-
sted, and continued to be used by the
abbots till all was swept from them
at the Dissolution. There is a tradition
that Wolsey expended a large sum on it,
intending to make it one of his resi
dences. In 1528 Henry VIII. and Q.
Katherine stayed at Tittenhanger during
the continuance ofthe sweating-sickness in
London. Henry granted the manor to Sir
Hugh Paulet, and by marriage it passed
to Sir Thos. Pope, who greatly improved
the house. His widow bequeathed the
manor to her nephew, Thos. Blount. The
Blounts became extinct about the middle
* Chauncy, vol. ii., p. 387.

LOUGHTON.

422

LOUGHTON.

of the 18th cent., and the manor went first
to theFreemans, and by marriage to Philip
Earl of Hardwick. On the decease of the
Countess of Hardwick it was inherited by
the Countess of Caledon. The house is a
large and rather picturesque red-brick
Tudor edifice, oblong, with an inner court.
The moat which originally surrounded it
has long been filled up. The park is small
but pleasant, has some fine trees, and the
Colne flows along its W. border. Other
good seats are — Colney Park, Aid. Sir A.
Lusk, Bart., M.P. ; Salisbury Hall, J.
Ball, Esq. ; and Highfield HaU.
LONG DITTON, Surrey (see
Dittos, Long).
LONGFORD, Middx. {see Har-
mondsworth). LOUGHTON, Essex (Dom.
Lo'chintuna), on the eastern edge of Ep
ping Forest, and on the Epping road, 5 m.
S. of Epping, and IIJ m. from London
(Whitechapel and Shoreditch churches).
The Loughton Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly.
(Epping and Ongar line, 12 m.), is the
usual stat. for visitors to Epping Forest.
Pop. of par. 2438. Inns, King's Head ;
Crown; Robin Hood, by the forest.
Loughton was one of the manors with
which Harold endowed his abbey of
Waltham, and it remained the property
of the abbey till the Dissolution. Edward
VI. granted it to Sir Thos. Darcy, but it
soon reverted to the Crown, and was
annexed by Mary to the Duchy of Lan
caster. Early in the reign of Elizabeth
it became the property of the Stonard
family, and was carried by the marriage
of Susan, daughter and heiress of Frances
Stonard, to Sir Robert Wroth, of Durants,
Enfield. In this family it continued for
over a century, when John Wroth dying,
1718, without issue, it passed by his be
quest to William Henry Earl of Rochford,
who in 1745 sold it for £24,500 to Aid.
Wm. Whitaker, merchant, of Lime Street,
London, in whose family it has since
continued. Loughton stands on high ground over
looking the valley of the Roding, Lam
bourne, Chigwell, and what was Hainault
Forest, and on the other hand running
into Epping Forest at its finest part, High

Beech. (See Epping Forest; High
Beech ; Chigwell.) The village is a
long straggling place, lively and noisy
on holidays, but wearing at other seasons
a sober sylvan aspect.
The Church, St. John, stands on the rt.
of the Epping road, at the N. end of the
vill., a more convenient site for the
parishioners than that of the old ch.,
which stood by the Hall, a mile to the E.
Loughton ch. is a solid white-brick fabric,
Norman, of the year 1846, with a low
square tower at the W. end. Most of the
windows are filled with painted glass.
The churchyard is prettily planted and
well kept, and affords some lovely views.
The lane past the ch. leads to the old
ch. Of this, the chancel — of flint and
stone, Perp., and of no architectural value
— alone remains. The lines of the old ch.
are, however, traceable by the drains, and
the place of the N. porch is marked by
the abrupt ending of a fir avenue, which
extends from the garden door of the old
hall. The ch.-yard is full of tombs of
Whittakers and Maitlands and other lords
of the soil, and the grave-stones of humbler
parishioners, but looks neglected and
melancholy. The ch. stood within the grounds of
Loughton Hall, the ancient manor-house
of the Stonards, Wroths, and Whitakers,
but now Uttle more is left of one than the
other. Loughton Hall is described as a
large and handsome structure, and it
boasted of having received many dis
tinguished visitors. EUzabeth visited
Loughton Hall in July 1561. James I.
was there on more occasions than one.
The Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne is
said to have retired to Loughton in 1688,
but it was most likely only for a night or
so when on her way to Nottingham under
the escort of Compton, the military Bishop
of London. Loughton Hall was destroyed
by fire in 1 836. The present Loughton Hall,
in part constructed from the old hall, is a
farm-house. Before leaving, obs. the great
gates of the old hall, an admirable speci
men of hand-wrought iron-work. From
the hall there are pleasant walks across
the fields to Theydon-Bois, or by lane to
Chigwell. An elegant little ch. (St. Mary the Vir
gin) was erected in 1871 on the forest
side of the parish, as a chapel-of-ease to
Loughton. (See High Beech.)

LULLINGSTONE.

423

LULLINGSTONE.

LOW LEYTON, Essex (see
Leyton). LULLINGSTONE, Kent (Dom.
Lolingestone), on the Darent, 1 m. S.W.
of Eynesford, and J m. W. of the Eynes-
ford Stat, of the L. C. and D. Rly. (Seven-
oaks line). At the census of 1871 there
were only 6 houses in Lullingstone,
including the castle, and 53 inhab.* There
isof course, therefore, no village, and, apart
from the beauty of the scenery, the inte
rest centres in the castle and the monts. in
the church.
In the latter years of William I.,
Lullingstone was held by Anketul Eosse.
It passed by marriage in the reign of John
to Wm. Peyforer ; and in 1279 was pur
chased by Gregory Rokesley, Lord Mayor
Of London. From the Rokesleys it passed
by sale in 1369 to Sir John Peche, in whose
family it remained till carried by marriage
to John Hart, on the death of Sir John
Peche in 1522. On the decease of Percival
Hart in 1738, it went by marriage to the
Dykes of Sussex, and is now the property
of Sir William Hart Dyke, Bart., M.P.
Lullingstone Castle lies low, a little to
the W. of the Darent, with a splendid park
running over the chalk hills behind it. The
Castle is really a red-brick manor-house of
the reign of Elizabeth or early part of that
of James, but enlarged, altered, and in good
part rebuilt in the latter part of the 18th
century. John Thorpe has been said to
be the architect, but it is not in his folio
Book of Plans. There used to be a house
hold tradition that " Lullingstone Castle
is 8 centuries old, and the tower was built
before the Conquest — they never built
such places since ; " but it has probably
been silenced by the railway whistle.
Originally the house was moated, and
portions of the moat remain as ornamental
canals. Lullingstone Castle, as you look
at it from the lawn, has, with its surround
ings, a singularly stately and picturesque
appearance. In front is a lake, with
immense elms bordering it; behind the
house rise splendid cedars ; in the garden
are lofty firs ; on one side is seen the
fine old red-brick gate-house (the tower

* When Hasted wrote, just a century ago, there
were "but two houses in it besides Lullingstone
House."

above referred to), a capital specimen of
Elizabethan brick- work, on the other side
the church. Notice the shell of an ancient
oak, with a vigorous chesnut growing
from the centre.
The Cliurch (St. Botolph) stands on the
lawn close to the castle. It is of the Dec.
period, small, and plain externally, but the
inside rich and well kep-t — "it appears
more like a nobleman's costly chapel than a
common parish church,"-wrote Hasted of
it a century ago, and the same might be
as justly said now. The windows have
some old painted glass, with saints and
their emblems, a martyrdom, arms of,
the Peches, Harts, etc. The ceiling is a
rich example of Jacobean plaster-work.
Obs. too the excellent old pews, of oak,
— all grown, it is said, on the estate. The
monts. to the Peches, Harts, and Dykes
are numerous and costly. S. of the
chancel is a graceful mont. to Sir Percival
Hart, d. 1580 ; Sir George Hart, d. 1687,
and wife, with coloured recumbent effigies.
On the N. a freestone effigy. In the chapel
is a rich high tomb of Sir John Peche,
d. 1522, Capt. of the Body Guard of Henry
VIII., and Lord Deputy of Calais, recum
bent effigy in full armour, under a lofty
canopy. Also several other monts. of later
date of both Harts and Dykes, and some
helmets and armour that may repay ex
amination. The brasses in the chancel
include — Sir Wm. Peche, d. 1487, remark
ably well engraved, but seemingly of later
date. Alice Baldwyn, d. 1533, "late
gentlewoman to the Lade Mary, princes
of Englond." Dame Eliz. Cobham, d. 1544,
wife of John Hart, by whom she was
mother to the Right Worshipful Sir
Percival Hart ; afterwards wife of George
brother to Lord Cobham. Dole Day is
regularly observed here : on the 1st of
January doles of bread and money are
distributed from the altar to the few poor
of the parish, the church being for the
occasion strewed with straw — a survival
of the old custom of strewing rushes on
church festivals.
The park is large, undulating, richly
wooded, and well stocked with deer.
There is a public path through it to Park
Hill gate ; but before taking it ascend the
hill E. of the castle, to the great yew tree,
for the splendid view over the valley of
the Darent.

MALDEN.

424

MERSTHAM.

MALDEN, Surrey (more correctly
Maldon— A.-S. Mceldune, "being
compounded of two words, Mai, a cross,
and dune, a hill;"* Dom. Meldtme), on
the Hog's Mill river, 3 m. S.E. from
Kingston, and 10 m. from London. The
Worcester Park Stat., on the Epsom and
Leatherhead br. of the L. and S.W. Rly.,
is about I m. E. of Maiden. Pop. of the
par. 416.
In 1240, Walter de Merton, Lord
Chancellor of England, and afterwards
Bp. of Rochester, purchased the manor
of Maiden in order to establish a " house
of scholars at Maiden [domus scholarium
apud Meandon], for the support of 20
scholars in the schools of Oxford or else
where." The Maiden house consisted of
a warden and priests, who were trans
ferred, and the estates made over to,
Merton College in 1274, when that in
stitution (begun in 1264) was completed.
The manor was held undisturbed by
Merton College till Henry VIII. began
his house at Nonsuch, when he compelled
the college to cede him 120 acres for his
Great Park — since known as Worcester
Park. Elizabeth went still further, for
she compelled them to grant her a lease
of their manors of Maiden and Chessing-
ton, with the advowsons of the livings.
for the term of 6000 years, at a rental of
£40, which she at once ceded to the
Earl of Arundel, in exchange for Nonsuch.
The college, dissatisfied with this com
pulsory grant, brought an action of eject
ment in 1621, with a view to try its
legality, and in 1627 the Chancellor made
a decree, by consent, that the lease should
be retained for the benefit of the then
holder for 80 years, and then revert to
the college.
Maiden is a vill. of irregularly scattered
houses ; the occupations chiefly agri
cultural, the soil clay, the lanes verdant.
The Church (St. John) was in 1610
rebuilt of brick, except the chancel, which
is of flint and stone. It was repaired,
altered, and a N. aisle added in 1867. It is
small, of no interest, and contains no
monts. In the E. window are the arms
of Walter de Merton, and of Ravis, Bp. of
London in 1609, a native of Maiden, and
a contributor to the rebuilding of the ch.
The carved pulpit is temp. James I. ; the
* Lysons, vol. i., p. 241.

font is large and old, but plain. Rogers
Ruding was vicar from 1793 till his death,
Feb. 16, 1820, and here wrote his great
work, the 'Annals of the Coinage of
Great Britain.' 4 vols., 4to, 1817—19.
Worcester Park, £ m. E. of the ch.,
was a portion of Nonsuch Great Park.
It has been divided, partially built over,
and is now a stat. of the Epsom and
Leatherhead Rly. New Maiden, by the
S.W. Rly., is a hamlet of Kingston. (See
Kingston-upon-Thames.) MARBLE HILL, Middx. (see
Twickenham). MARDEN PARK, Surrey (see
GODSTONE). MARGARET'S, ST., Herts (see
Stanstead St. Margaret's).
MARKS, Essex (see Romeord).
MERSTHAM, Surrey (Dom. Mer-
stan), a vill. on the Brighton road, 3|
m. N.E. of Reigate, 8J m. S. by W. of
Croydon, and a stat. on the S.E. Rly.,
20f m. from London Bridge. Pop. 959.
Inns : Feathers Hotel ; Jolliffe Arms.
Two centuries ago, Flecknoe found the
Merstham inns very unsatisfactory.
" Where I nothing found for supper
But only coarse brown bread and butter,"
a dirty table-cloth, and a " mare mortuum
of beer, . . . full of hundred drowned flies."
In the bed, besides other discomforts,, a
" whole warren of starved fleas " grazed on
him ; and he ends his " littanie " with the
pious wish, " the Devil take Mestham for't
for me."* But matters have no doubt
improved since then.
Merstham (Mearstam, the country people
call it, and so Cobbett writes it in his
' RuralRides ') is seated in the midst of a
hilly district, and the country all around
is varied and beautiful. The church and
village are on the Upper Greensand ; the
rly. stat. and lower part of the village are
on the Gault ; the northern parts are chalk,
and on the hill-sides a stiff bluish clay,
and clay with flints occur. From the foot
of the church hill issues one of the head-
* Flecknoe, Diarium, 1656. 8th Jornada, p. 41,

MERSTHAM.

425

MERSTHAM.

springs of the river Mole, and in wet
seasons a bourne breaks out from Mers
tham Hill, and continues flowing for weeks.
Merstham stone was formerly much
prized for building purposes. It varies
greatly in different parts of the parish,
and at different depths in the same quarry,
the upper beds being coarse, and only
available for common work. It is a
greyish arenaceous limestone, similar to
the Jirestone of Godstone and Reigate —
soft when quarried, but hardening by
exposure to the atmosphere. So highly
was the stone valued at one time, that the
Crown took possession of the quarries.
Edward III., in 1359, issued a patent
authorizing John and Thomas Prophete
to dig stone here for the works at Windsor
Castle, and commanding the sheriff and
others to aid them, and if any men refused
to work, to arrest them, and send them
in safe custody to Windsor Castle.*
Henry VII.'s Chapel at Westminster was
built of Merstham stone. The stone is now
in request for building furnaces, and for
making a fine lime, known in the building
trade as Merstham greystone lime. The
hillock on which Merstham church stands
is a mass of firestone rock. Fitton and
Mantell reckon the thickness of the fire-
stone beds at Merstham at 25 ft., the
gault 150 ft. A well at the Feathers inn
is 210 ft. deep ; of which the boring
at the bottom, 60 ft., was ai in clay and
marl. The manor of Merstham was given by
Athelstan, son of King iEthelred II., to the
monks of Christchurch, Canterbury. At
the Dom. Survey, the Abp. of Canterbury
held it " for the clothing of the monks; "
and it continued to be held by the Abp.
or monks till the Dissolution. Henry VIII.
gave Merstham in 1539 to Robert South
well (afterwards a knight and Master of
the RoUs) in exchange for the churches of
Warnham, Sussex, and East Peckham,
Kent, which -the king gave to the newly-
constituted dean and chapter of Christ-
church. In 1568, Francis Southwell
alienated Merstham to Thomas Copley.
Afterwards the manor frequently changed
hands, till in 1788 it was purchased of
the Rev. Jas. Tattersall by Wm. Jolliffe,
Esq., M.P. It is now the property of Wm.
G. Hylton Jolliffe, Lord Hylton, whose
* Brayley, History of Surrey, vol. iv,, p. 318.

seat, Merstliam House, a large irregular
mansion, with some fine rooms, and a
few good pictures, stands close by the
church. Edward II. is said to have granted the
monks of Christchurch the privilege of
holding a market in Merstham, but there
is no record of its ever having been held.
Merstham is now at any rate a mere
country vill., not unpicturesque in parts,
as by the turn to the Reigate road, where
are several old half -timber cottages, and
by the entrance gates to Merstham House,
where is a quaint old smith's forge. The
Church (St. Catherine) stands very pic
turesquely among old trees, on a hillock
E. of the vill. It is built of the native
stone, has nave and aisles, with a long
sloping tiled roof extending over both;
chancel and aisles, or sub-chancels, wider
than the nave-aisles ; a tower at the W.
end, with a short octagonal shingled
spire ; and S. porch. The tower, at least
in the lower part, is E.E. (obs. the W.
door ; the mouldings were rechiselled in
1861) ; the body of the ch. Perp., but
some portions are Dec. The columns
which divide the nave and aisles are
cylindrical on the N., octagonal on the
S. The E. window of 5 lights is large
and good. Obs. double piscina on S. of
the main chancel, and » single one in S,
sub-chancel. The N. sub-chancel serves
as the manor-pew and chapel for the
Jolliffe monts. Some of these are good
of their kind, but have only family or
local interest. A mutilated effigy, with
purse hanging on the rt. side, of 14th-
cent. date, now in the S. chancel, was
found some years since beneath the pave
ment. Brasses. — On an altar-tomb in N.
chancel, Sir John Elmebrygge, d. 14 —
(the date has never been completed), 2
wives, 4 sons, and 5 daughters : only the
female effigies remain. Small brass of
Peter and Richard Best, d. 1585-7, with
effigies of boy in long coats and child
in swaddling-clothes. The font is E.E.
in date, of Sussex marble, large, square,
and rests on a thick central shaft. The
int. of the ch. was restored in 1875, the
plaster ceiling removed, and the open
timber roof exposed.
The first iron railway in the South of
England was constructed, 1801-5, from
Merstham and Croydon to the Thames at
Wandsworth. It was a double line, pro-

MERTON.

426

MERTON.

jected to carry lime and stone to London,
and bring back coals and manure. It
was worked by horses ; did not pay ;
and was at length purchased and taken
up by the Brighton Rly. Company. The
hills at Merstham are pierced by a tunnel
of the Brighton Rly. over a mile long;
and it illustrates the different scale on
which our actual railways are wrought,
that the cost of this Merstham tunnel far
exceeded the entire outlay on the old
Merstham or " Surrey Iron Rly."
MERTON, Surrey, a long strag
gling village, 1 m. S. of the Wimbledon
Stat, of the L. and S.W. Rly., and 9 m.
from London on the Epsom road. Lower
Merton is on the Wandle, midway (1 m.)
between Merton ch and Tooting. There
are Rly. Stats, at Merton Abbey and at
Lower Merton, available from the Water
loo, Ludgate Hill, and London Bridge
Stations ; and one called the Morden
Stat., but really in Merton, on the Croy
don and Wimbledon br. of the L., B., and
S. C. Rly. Pop. 2139. Inns, White Hart ;
Grove Tavern.
The name, A.-S. Mcrantune, Meretune,
Dom. Meretone, is probably Mere-tun =
the town on the Mere, from its position
on a mere ot lake formed by the waters
of the Wandle having flooded the marshes
between Phipps' Bridge and Merton Mill.
The village consists of two portions, once
separated, now connected by a line of
dwellings : Lower Merton, by the Wandle,
where stood the Priory, much occupied
by mills and factories ; and the ch., vil
lage, and neighbourhood, sometimes called
TJpper Merton. S. of the ch. is Merton
Common — a common no longer.
Merton was the scene of two important
events in early English history. In 784,
Cynewulf,king of the West Saxons, having
come to visit a lady at Merton, was beset
by the .iEtheling Cyneheard and his fol
lowers, and killed, with all his attendants :
on the following day the king's thanes
and men, having heard the news, attacked
Cyneheard and slew him, and all his 84
followers save one.* In 871, the English
under King iEthelred and his brother
Alfred the iEtheling (afterwards our
Alfred the Great) fought a terrible battle
With the Danes at Merton. During the
* A.-S. Chronicle, An. 755, 784.

greater part of the day the English were
victorious, but the Danes held possession
of the field of carnage. Bishop Heah-:
mund and many good men were slain
there,* and King iEthelred mortally
wounded. The manor of Merton belonged to
Harold. At the Dom. Survey it was held
by King William, and it remained a pos
session of the Crown till given by Henry I.
to Gilbert the Norman, Sheriff (Vice-
comes) of Surrey. Gilbert, born a Nor
man and bred a soldier, had in 1115
founded an Augustinian priory at Mer
ton, and it was to augment his founda
tion that he obtained the grant from the
king. Merton Priory grew rapidly in
reputation, was visited and patronized by
Queen Matilda, and soon, at the sug
gestion of the Prior, was removed to a
more convenient site by the Wandle :
the original site appears to have been by
Merton ch. The original buildings were
of wood ; the new buildings, of flint and
stone, were completed about 1130. There.
were then 36 brethren in the house.
Merton Priory appears to have risen
early into importance. The prior was made
a mitred abbot, with a seat in Parliament.
From its school proceeded two memorable
scholars. One was Thomas a Becket ; the
other, a native of the village, was Walter
de Merton, Bp. of Rochester and Chan
cellor of England, and the founder of
Merton College, Oxford. When Hubert
de Burgh, Chief Justiciary of England,
incurred the displeasure of Henry III., he
fled for sanctuary to Merton Priory. It
was at Merton Priory that the Great
Council of the Nation was held, 1236,
which passed the ordinances known as
the Statutes of Merton, and in which the
assembled barons answered the attempt
of the king and prelates to introduce the
canon law by the famous declaration
" Nolumus Leges Anglise mutare." At
the surrender of the Priory to the com
missioners of Henry VIII., April 16, 1538,
its gross revenue was £1039. The Priory
was let on lease, but the manor was re
tained by the Crown. Queen Mary, by
letters patent of Nov. 14, 1658, bestowed
the priory on the monastery of Sheen;
* Ibid., An. 871. Some place the battle at
Merton in Oxfordshire, others at Merton or Mar
den, m WUts, but the balance of authority inclines
to the Surrey Merton.

MERTON.

427

MERTON.

but it was resumed by Elizabeth, who
granted a lease of it for 21 years to
Gregory Lovel, Cofferer to the House
hold, — buried 1597, in Merton oh., where
his mont. is still standing. The manor
was sold by James I. in 1610 to Thomas
Hunt. Manor and priory have since re
mained in private hands, and been fre
quently transferred.*
For awhile the priory estate was held
by a Pepys — though not the memorable
Samuel —
"May 2l8«, 1668.— To the Office, where meets
me Sir Richard Ford, who among other things con
gratulates me, as one or two did yesterday, on my
great purchase ; and he advises me to forbear, if
it be not done, as a thing that the world will
envy me in : and what is it but my cosen Tom
Pijpys's buying of Martin Abbey in Surry," t
The priory occupied an area of about 60
acres. In 1648 Merton Priory was one of
the "places of strength" in the county
of Surrey, ordered by the Derby House
Committee to be made defensible. An
advertisement for letting it, in 1680, de
scribed it as containing several large
rooms and a very fine chapel. Fifty years
later Vertue described the chapel as entire,
and resembling a Saxon building. Lysons,
writing in 1792, says that the only vestige
of the buildings then left was " the east
window of a chapel in crumbling stone."
Now only the flint walls of the precinct
and a few shapeless fragments of the
chapel and mutilated doorway are left.
Within the walls a factory for printing
calico was established in 1724, the chapel
being utilized as the print-room. A
second mill was opened within the walls
in 1752, and a third somewhat later.
About iOOO persons were employed in
them in 1792 ; ten years later the number
had fallen to 300. % After a time cotton
printing was supplanted by silk printing.
Merton Priory Mill is now an extensive
silk and woollen printing establishment.

* In the British Museum is an excellent impres
sion of the seal of Merton Abbey. It is of the
13th cent., ogival, and has a representation of
the Virgin enthroned, under a canopy, with the
infant Jesus in her arms, and is one of the finest
fenown. The seal is engraved with much accuracy
in the Supp. to the English Cyclopaedia, Arts and
Sc. Div., coL 1882, and both seal and counter-seal
in Brayley's Surrey, vol. iii., p. 460.
t Pepys, Diary. Tom Pepys was Master of the
Jewel Office to Charles II . and James II. Merton
Priory was for some years his seat.
t Lysons, Environs, 1st and 2nd eds. ; Brayley.

Merton Church (St. Mary), which stands
on somewhat higher ground, J m. W. of
the priory, is in the main the original ch.
built by Gilbert Norman about 1120. It
is of flint and stone, covered with plaster,
and comprises a nave with S. aisle and
very long chancel, N. porch, and short
octagonal wooden spire rising from the
W. end of the nave roof. Under the
porch (which is a rude Dec. work) is
a Norman arch with zigzag moulding.
One or two lancet windows remain ; the
others are Dec. and Perp. insertions. The
int. is of no interest. In the E. window
are the arms of Merton Priory in old
painted glass. S. of the chancel is a.
mural mont. with kneeling effigies, co
loured, of George Lovell, Esq., of Merton
Priory, cofferer to Q. Elizabeth, d. 1597,
his wife, 4 sons, and 4 daughters. In
the ch.-yard is the tomb of Mr. Francis
Nixon, of Merton Priory, who " first per
fected the art of copperplate calico print
ing," and introduced the process here, to
the great profit of the neighbourhood.
Another, with long poetic epitaph, is that
of the second wife of James Lackington,
the once famous bookseller. She was
the Dorcas Turton of whom he gives so
pretty an account in his Memoirs, and
whom he married within two months of
the death of that " best of women " his
first wife. Lackington had » country
house at Merton.
" For four years Upper Holloway was to me an
elysium ; then Surrey appeared unquestionably
the most beautiful county in England, and Upper
Merton the most rural village in Surrey. So now
Merton is selected as the seat of occasional philoso
phical retirement." *
Merton Place was for a few years the
residence of Nelson, who delighted in
the house and grounds, and used to
amuse himself by angling in the Wandle,
" having been a good fly-fisher in former
days, and learning now to practise with
his left hand."f He lived here entirely
with Sir William and Lady Hamilton,
from Oct. 1801 to May 1803, when he
was ordered to sea ; but all the time he
afterwards spent on land was spent at
Merton. He left it for the last time
Sept. 13, 1805, just 5 weeks before Tra
falgar. Lady Hamilton made all the

* Memoirs of the Forty five first Years ofthe
Life of James Lackington, 1794, p. 433.
+ Southey, Life of Nelson ; Davy, Salmonia.

MERTON.

428

MTCKLEHAM.

arrangements for furnishing and fitting
up the house, laid out the grounds, etc.,
whilst Nelson was at sea ; but he gave
very precise directions : —
" I would not have you lay out more than is
necessary at Merton. The rooms and the new
entrance will take a deal of money. The entrance
by the corner I would have certainly done ; a com
mon white gate will do for the present, and one of
the cottages which is in the barn can be put up as
a temporary lodge. The road can be made to a
temporary bridge, for that part of the Nile one
day Bhall be filled up. Downing's canvas awning
will do for a passage. . . . The footpath should be
turned .... and I alBO beg, as my dear Horatia
is to be at Merton, that a strong netting, about
3 ft. high, may be placed round the Nile, that the
little thing may not tumble in, and then you may
have ducks again in it." *
The Nile was a streamlet which ran
through the grounds in artificial wind
ings, so named by Lady Hamilton in
honour of her hero. Horatia was of
course his daughter. Nelson's manner of
life at Merton has been painted with none
too favourable a pencil by Lord Minto : —
"I went to Lord Nelson's on Saturday to dinner,
and returned to-day in the forenoon. The whole
establishment and way of life such as to make me
angry as well as melancholy. . . . She [Lady
Hamilton] and Sir William and the whole set of
them, are living with him at his expense. She is
in high looks, but more immense than ever. She
goes on cramming Nelson with trowelfulls of
flattery, which he goes on taking as quietly as a
child does pap. The love she makes him is not
only ridiculous but disgusting : not only the
rooms, but the whole house, staircase and all, are
covered with nothing but pictures of her and of
him, of all sizes and sorts, and representations of
his naval actions, coats of arms, pieces of plate in
his honour, the flagstaff of L'Orient, etc." +
" I went to Merton on Saturday and found
Nelson just sitting down to dinner, surrounded
by a family party, of his brother the Dean, Mrs.
Nelson, their children, and the children of a sister.
Lady Hamilton at the head of the table and
Mother Cadogan at the bottom. He looks remark
ably well and full of spirits. . . . Lady Hamilton
has improved and added to the house and the
place extremely well, without his knowing she was
about it. He found it all ready done. She is a
clever being after all," t
" Friday night, 13th September [1805].
" At half -past ten drove from dear, dear Merton,
where I left all that I hold dear in this world, to
go to serve my king and country. May the great
God whom I adore enable me to fulfil the expecta
tions of my country. " §

* Nelson to Lady Hamilton.
+ Sir Gilbert Elliot to Lady Elliot, Maroh 22,
1802 : Life and Letters of Sir G. Elliot, first Earl of
Minto, vol. iii., p. 242.
t Elliot to Lady Elliot, Aug. 26, 1805.
§ Nelson's Diary, Nicolas, vol. vii., p. 33.

Lady Hamilton continued to reside at
Merton till 1808, when, compelled by
pecuniary difficulties, she sold it to Asher
Goldsmid. The house has long been
pulled down and the ground built over.
The names of Nelson Place and Nelson's
Arms are now the only memorials of the
connection of our greatest naval hero
with the village.
MICKLEHAM, Suerey (Dom.
Micleham, Michelham), in the beautiful
Vale of Mickleham, midway (2| m.) be
tween Leatherhead and Dorking : the
nearest rly. stat. is the Box Hill Stat, of
the L.,B.,and S. C. Rly., at Burford Bridge,
H m. S. of Mickleham ch. Pop. 787.
Inns, Running Horse Hotel, Mickleham^
Burford Hotel (Fox and Hounds Inn),
Burford Bridge.
The Vale of Mickleham extends for
nearly 4 m., from Leatherhead to Burford
Bridge, at the foot of Box Hill. Wind
ing, the surface undulating, with for the
first mile or more the Mole on your rt.
hand, flanked by the lower slopes of
Fetcham Downs and the rich woods of
Norbury, and on the 1. the steep Mickle
ham Downs, and beyond the dark many-
coloured and somewhat fantastic mass of
Box Hill, the Vale is beautiful through
out, though by Mickleham vill. high
walls too often enclose houses and grounds,
and mar the prospect. But the ch. and
the school-house perched up on a height
are picturesque, and there are tempting-
looking byways to the Downs.
The Church (St. Michael) looks attrac
tive, but does not gain on close inspection..
The massive tower has a, Norm, door
way ; the arcades dividing the nave and
aisles have semicircular arches ; but the
body of the ch. was entirely remodelled,
under the pretence of restoration, in
1822-3, and elaborately ornamented—
much of the constructive as well as deco
rative work, however, being mere lath
and plaster— and little, if any, of the
old work being left unaltered.* The old
chancel was removed and a new one sub
stituted in 1872, a reredos of marble and
alabaster erected, and the windows filled
* The architect, Mr. P. F. Robinson, published
an ' Attempt to ascertain the Age of Mickleham
Church in Surrey, with Remarks on the Architec
ture,' illustrated by 20 plates, thin folio 1824

MTCKLEHAM.

429

MICKLEHAM.

with painted glass. The only mont. to
be noticed is an altar-tomb in the Norbury
chapel, with brasses of " Wm. Widdow-
sonn, cytizen and mercor of London, and
Jone his wyfe," d. 1514. The almshouses
by the pretty little school-house, on a
high bank near the ch., were built in
1865, in place of a, very shabby range
destroyed by fire the previous year.
Norbury, so named, as is believed from
its position N. of Mickleham, is the pride
of the Vale. As early as the Confessor it
constituted a distinct lordship then held
by the king ; at the Dom. Survey by
Richard of Tonbridge, and in the reign of
Edward II. by Tonbridge's descendant
Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester. Por
many generations it was held by the
Husee family, at first (1315) under the
Earls of Gloucester, afterwards in their
own right, till in the reign of Henry VI.
it went by marriage to Wm. Wymeldon.
From the Wymeldons it passed, in default
of heirs male, to the Stydolfs, or Sti-
dolphs, an old Kentish family, who made
Norbury their residence, and held it
through a long course of years.
"Aug. 27, 1655. — I went to Box-hill to see those
rare natural bowers, cabinets, and shady walkes
in the box copses : hence we walk'd to Mickleham,
and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seate environ'd with
elme-treesand walnuts innumerable, and of which
last he told us they receiv'd a considerable re
venue. Here are such goodly walkes and hills
shaded with yew and box as render the place
extreamely agreeable, it seeming from these ever
greens to be summer all the winter." *
The Stydolfs died out, and the property
passed through various hands, till in 1766
it was bought by one Anthony Chapman,
who, true to his name, cut down the
"walnut trees innumerable," and con
verted as much of the other timber as he
could venture into cash. When he had
exhausted its availabilities, he sold the
estate, 1774, to William Lock, a man of
very different stamp, the friend of many of
the most distinguished men of his time, an
excellent scholar and a man of refined
taste, who did his best to improve the
property. The old house, which stood on
low ground by the public road, having
become ruinous, Mr. Lock pulledit down,
and built a new one on the crest of the
opposite hill, the principal rooms thus
* Evelyn, Diary.

commanding one of the richest prospects
in a district famous for fine views. The
house was in the coldly classic taste of the
day, but it contained some good rooms ;
one, the Saloon, became celebrated from
the novelty of its decoration. It is a room
20 ft. by 23, and was intended to repre
sent a bower enclosed by vine-covered
trelliswork. The sides of the room are
divided by pilasters which appear to sup
port the trellised roof, through an open
ing in the centre of which is seen the
evening sky. The windows of the south
side of the room frame the real scenery of
the Vale looking towards Box Hill and
over Dorking. On the other sides are
landscapes — compositions from the Cum
berland lakes — reaching the whole height
ofthe room. The idea was carried out with
great care and thoroughness. Intended for
a dining-room, the artificial landscapes are
all lit by the same early evening sun as in
the summer or early autumn the natural
landscape would be at the dinner hour. And
to assist the effect, the lawns and slopes
before the window were planted and
arranged to form a pictorial foreground to
the natural scene. The landscapes were
painted by Barrett (Wilson's more pros
perous rival), but Cipriani painted the
groups of men in them, and Gilpin the
cattle ; while the ceiling, sky, andtriallage,
with the climbing vines and clustering
grapes and honeysuckles, were painted by
Pastorini.* Many changes have been made
in the house, but happily this saloon, in
which Lock often entertained a distin
guished circle, has been preserved intact.
Lock was himself a man of superior taste
and culture, and a warm friend of artists
and literary men. The " ingenious critic,"
whom Johnson cites in his Life of Milton,
is, says Boswell, " (as he told Mr. Seward)
Mr. Lock of Norbury Park, in Surrey,
whose knowledge and taste in the fine
arts is universally acknowledged."! And
Fuseli's biographer records that " for his
taste and critical judgment in the fine
arts as well as for the power which he
displays in historical painting, . . . Fuseli
considered that Mr. W. Lock ranked as
high, or higher than any historic painter in
England. The society at the house of

* William Gilpin, Observations on the Western
Part of England ; Brayley, Hist, of Surrey.
t Life of Johnson, vol. viii., p. 11.

MICKLEHAM.

430

MICKLEHAM.

Mr. Lock was well chosen and very select ;
and here he occasionally met Sir Joshua
Reynolds and Dr. Moore, the author of
Zeluco;"* and Sir Thomas Lawrence, a
favourite guest of Norbury— where he
made his only effort at modelling on a
bust of his host — speaks of Mr. Lock, in
his letters, in a like laudatory style. Be
sides English artists and writers and men
of mark, the emigrants who had settled at
Mickleham, Talleyrand, Madame de Stael,
theDucdeMontmorency,andothernotablepersonages, were welcome guests. It was
at Lock's dinner-table in this room that
Fanny Burney met and was fascinated by
M. D'Arblay ; and when herf ather refused
his assent to the marriage, Mr. Lock gave
her away at Mickleham ch., provided them
a cottage close at hand, and after infinite
pains succeeded in soothing the angry
father and bringing about a reconciliation.
In return, Madame D'Arblay's next book,
' Camilla,' written at Lock's instigation,
paints the personages and scenery of Nor
bury and its neighbourhood — not however
with anymarked vigour or vraisemblance.
After the decease of the younger Mr. Lock,
Norbury was sold in 1819 to Mr. P. Robin
son, who two years after sold it to Mr. W.
Fuller Maitland, and hein 1824 exchanged
it with Mr. H. P. Sperling for Park Place,
Berkshire. In 1848 the estate was pur
chased by Mr. Thos. Grissell, the builder,
who. with the assistance of Messrs. Banks
and Barry as architects, greatly enlarged
and improved the house (and abridged
the public access to the park), and made
it his residence till his death in 1874. It
is now in the hands of his trustees. The
Park, of about 300 acres, is greatly diver
sified in surface, richly timbered, and
yields many charming prospects. More
than a century has passed since the Chap
man disposed of its walnut trees, and their
place has not been adequately supplied.
But there are splendid beeches and very
respectable oaks, elms, and chesnuts,
whilst on the steep slope of a hill is an
almost unrivalled grove of yew trees, of
magnificent proportions, unknown anti
quity, and most fantastic growth — the chief
pride of Norbury, where it is known as the
Druids' Grove, the larger or more remark
able trees being distinguished as The

* Knowles, Life and Writings of Henry Fuseli,
R.A., vol. i., p. 60.

King of the Grove, The Horse and his
Rider, and the like.
Juniper Hall (F. Richardson, Esq.), S.
of Mickleham, and at the foot of Juniper
Hill, was, at the end of the 18th cent,
the home of a remarkable cluster of French
emigrants. Talleyrand, Greville notes,
" has gone to live at Juniper Hill with
Madame de Stael."* But there lived also
Madame de Broglie, the Comte de Nar-
bonne, the Due de Montmorency ,M. Sicard,
Fanny Burney's M. D'Arblay, and several
more, for whom the hospitable gates of
Norbury were always open.
Fredley Farm was the " cottage-home "
of Richard Sharp, the ' Conversation
Sharp ' of the best society of the early part
of the 19th cent. ; and here, as he him
self has recorded in verse and prose,f and
as the memoirs and letters of his contem
poraries corroborate, he had as guests
Grattan, Mackintosh (who writes with
great warmth of ' The Happy Valley,' as
he proposes Mickleham shall be named),
Romilly, Leonard Horner, Samuel Rogers,
the elder Mill, and others of equal celebrity.
Fredley has, since Sharp's tenancy, been
wholly remodelled, and the farm sunk.
Mickleham Hall (G. Wyatt Clarke, Esq.)
was built by Sir C. H. Talbot about 1785.
It was for a time in the occupation of
Lord Albert Conyngham. Birch Grove,
on Mickleham Down, is the finely placed
seat of Winthorp Mackworth Praed, Esq.
Camilla Lacy (J. L. Wylie, Esq.) was
built by Mr. William Lock on a pretty
spot S. of Norbury Park, for Madame
D'Arblay, partly out of the profits of
' Camilla,' whence the name : and here she
wrote, " I bury all disquietudes in present
enjoyment ; an enjoyment more fitted to
my secret mind than any I had ever hoped
to attain. . . . The serenity of a life like
this smoothes the whole internal surface
of the mind."J Madame D'Arblay, with
her husband, quitted Camilla Lacy for
France in 1802. The house has since been
greatly altered. Other inhabitants of
Mickleham of more or less note have been
William Guthrie, one of the most popular
and one of the most voluminous compilers
of the 18th cent., but entirely forgotten in
* Greville, Journal, vol. ii., p. 346.
t Sharp, Letters and Essays in Prose and Verse,
p. 248, etc.
t Diary and Letters of Madame D'Arblay vol.
ii., p. 322. •''

MILL HILL.

431

MILL HILL.

the 19th ; Samuel Weller Singer, the
editor of Spence's Anecdotes and Caven
dish's Life of Wolsey, and the author of a
History of Playing Cards; Akenside's
friend, Jeremiah Dyson, Clerk of the
House of Commons, and M. P. for Hor
sham ; Sir Lucas Pepys, the distinguished
physician, the Marquis Wellesley, Prof.
Daniell, the chemist, James Mill and
John Stuart Mill, etc. Close to Burford
Bridge is the pretty hamlet of West-
hamble. MILL HILL, Middx., a hamlet
and eccl. dist. of Hendon, from which it
is about 2 m. N. The Mill Hill Stat, of
the Grt. N. Rly. (Edgware and Highgate
line) is J m. S.E. of the vill., that of the
Midland Rly. IJ m. W. Pop. of the eccl.
dist., 1335. Inn : King's Head.
The vill. is an irregular, disjointed col
lection of houses stretching for a mile
along the summit of a hill away from any
main line of road, and about mid-distance
between Edgware and the Barnet road.
From every clear spot wide views are ob
tained, and on all sides is a pleasant open
green country. Mill Hill is consequently
a favourite place of abode, and many good
seats with large and well-stocked grounds
occur, and fine large elms line both sides
of the way, The Church, St. Paul, was
begun by Wilberforce, then living at High-
wood Hill, in 1829 ; but some difficulties
occurred respecting its consecration, and
that ceremony was not performed and the
ch. opened till July 1836, a few days after
its founder's death. Artistically it is but
a sorry specimen of Early Gothic, but is
neat and commodious inside, and has sup
plied a much-felt want.
The long, bald, semi-classic, white brick
structure on the opposite side of the way
is the Mill Hill School, a Congregation-
alist college on the model of the great
public schools of the kingdom, with exhi
bitions to the universities. The school was
founded in 1807, and the present building
erected in 1825. The school stands on the
site of Ridgeway House, and the once
famous Botanic Garden formed by Peter
Collinson (d. 1768), one of the ablest bo
tanists of his time. Linnseus visited
Collinson here, and planted some trees
in his garden., An account of its rarer
plants was printed for private circulation
at the cost of Mr. Dillwyn, M.P. for

Swansea, under the title of ' Hortus Col-
linsonianus.' After Collinson's death tbe
garden was oontinued by his brother till
the site was purchased for the Congrega
tional school. In the school grounds may
still be seen two venerable, though some
what dilapidated, cedars, which the Duke
of Richmond sent to Collinson from Good
wood in 1751.
The large building on the rt. in ascending
the hill from the Midland Rly. Stat, is the
Roman Catholic Missionary College (' St.
Joseph's College of the Sacred Heart for
Foreign Missions'). The first stone of the
building was laid by Abp. (Cardinal)
Manning, in June 1869, and a portion was
completed in 1871 : the architect was Mr.
G. Goldie. It is a somewhat gloomy look
ing monastic structure, of stock brick
varied with bands and dressings of red
and black bricks ; is Venetian-Gothic in
style, and is built about a cloister court,
or quadrangle surrounded by cloisters.
The most noteworthy of the several sec
tions is the chapel, which occupies one side
of the court, has nave, aisles, side chapels,
sanctuary, and semicircular apse, with
ambulatory. Between the apse and clois
ter is a square campanile, 100 ft. high,
surmounted by a gilded statue of St.
Joseph, which forms a conspicuous object
for miles around. The college is intended
for 60 students, and has at present about
half that number in residence : they are
under vows to proceed, on the completion
of their educational course, to any station
to which they may be sent, and remain
among the heathen for life. The grounds
are about 40 acres in extent.
Two other Roman Catholic institutions
have their homes at Mill Hill : the St.
Mary's Franciscan Nunnery, and the Sti
Margaret's Industrial School, at the N.
end of the vill., and not far from the
grounds of the Missionary College.
Littleberries (J. F. Pawson, Esq.) is a
good old brick mansion, which tradition
says was built by Charles II. Frith
Manor House (M. S. Davidson, Esq.), Jm.
E. of the vill., belonged with the manor
to Westminster Abbey ; was assigned to
the short-lived bishopric of Westminster,
and afterwards passed into private hands.
The present house is modern. Other seats
are, Bittacy (H. Eley, Esq.) ; Miles Down
House (F. W. Field. Esq.) ; Belmont (J.
Macandrew, Esq.), etc.

MILL HILL.

432

MIMMS, N9RTH.

Highwood HiU adjoins the N. end of
Mill Hill, and extends E. to Totteridge,
Herts. It is higher, more secluded, and more
picturesque than either. At Highwood
House (Geo. Locket, Esq.), Sir Stamford
Raffles, Governor of Java and Bencoolen,
founder of the settlement of Singapore,
and founder and first president of the
Zoological Society, spent the last year or
so of his too short life. " A happy retire
ment," he calls it ; a " house small but
compact," grounds well laid out and 112
acres in grass, so that he will have abun
dant occupation ; and for society, " Wil-
berforce takes possession to-morrow "
(June 16, 1826,) of the next house, " so
that we are to be next-door neighbours
and divide the hill between us." * Their
neighbourship was brief : Raffles died at
Highwood, July 5, 1826. Lady Raffles
continued to reside here for many years,
and Bunsen makes frequent and admiring
mention of his visits. In one of his
letters he refers to the mineral spring
within the grounds, " enclosed at the ex
pense of Rachel, Lady Russell " ; f and
gives the tradition of the house respect
ing it : —
"A visit to Highwood gave an opportunity for
oommenting upon the dignity, the order, the
quiet activity, the calm cheerfulness with which
Lady Raffles rules the house, the day, the conver
sation ; and the place and its neighbourhood were
full of those memorials of the honoured dead
which served to enhance the natural beauty of the
prospect and the interest attaching itself to the
residence of Sir Stamford Raffles. The ground of
Highwood must have been trodden by the foot
steps and hallowed by the life and sorrows of
Rachel Lady Russell, even though no family re
collection exists to mark the spot which she
inhabited. . . . But the beautiful portion of
original wood in which Lady Rafiles's friends have
enjoyed walking with her, contains within its pre
cincts a chalybeate spring, walled round, and
marked by an inscription as having been enclosed
by Mistress Rachel Russell, at a date when the
eldest daughter of Lord and Lady Russell must
have been under 12 years old : yet is there nothing
unreasonable in tbe supposition that the mother
should have caused the work to be performed as a
public benefit (the healing quality of the spring
being in repute among the poor), and assign to it
the name of her daughter instead of her own.
Moreover in that wood there is a spot evidently
cleared of trees in a regular circle, from the centre
of which it was remembered by the lower class of
inhabitants, at the time when Sir Stamford
Raffles made the purchase of the ground, that a
previous proprietor, about the middle of the last
* Letters in Lady Raffles' Memoir of the Life of
Sir T. S. Raffles, 4to, 1830.
t Lysons, vol. ii., .p. 398.

century, had caused the loose stones to be removed
which had formed a ' monument to the memory of
the gentleman who was beheaded/ This piece
of foreBt might have been a portion _ of Lady
Russell's own large Southampton inheritance : as
an original Russell property it is gone out of
remembrance. " *
Wilberforce lived in the next house
from 1826 to 1831, when, greatly to his
regret, he was obliged to leave it. Other
houses are Ivor Hall (I. E. B. Cox, Esq.),
and Moat Mount (Serjt. E. W. Cox).
MIMMS, NORTH, Herts (Dom.
Mimmine), 3 m. S. of Hatfield, and about
the same distance N. by W. from Potter's
Bar Stat, of the Grt. N. Rly. ; pop. 1157.
Mimms Street is a pretty hamlet-like
village at the S.E. corner of North Mimms
Park, in which, ^ m. from the vill., is the
ch. ; and there are several little collec
tions of houses or hamlets at Bell Bar,
by the 17 m.-stone on the Hatfield road ;
Welham Green, a thoroughly rural ham
let, with a small green and pond, to the
left of the Hatfield road ; Marsh Moor,
a little N. of it ; Roestock, to the N.W. ;
and Swanley Bar and Little Heath, on
the S.E.
The manor of North Mimms was held
by the Bp. of Chester in the reign of the
Confessor and at the Dom. Survey, but not
in right of his bishopric. It was shortly
after alienated to Geoffrey de Magneville,
who built the ch. and gave the tithes
to the abbey he founded at Walden in
Essex. On the failure of male heirs, the
manor went to the Says ; and afterwards
in the same way to the Fitzpiers. In the
reign of Edward III. it belonged to Sir
Robert Knolles, a, distinguished com
mander in the French war. In the reig»
of Henry VIII. it passed by marriage to the
Coningsbys ; then by sale to Sir Nicholas
Hyde, whose granddaughter conveyed it
by marriage to Peregrine Osborne, Baron
Osborne, and afterwards Duke of Leeds.
It was purchased about 1800 by Henry
Brown ; and is now the property and seat
of Coningsby Sibthorpe, Esq.
North Mimms Park is large (over 1100
acres), varied in surface, well wooded, and
watered by a feeder of the Colne. The
house is a spacious and characteristic
Jacobean mansion, red brick, with stone
* Baroness Bunsen, A Memoir of Baron Bunsen,
vol. i., p. 532.

MIMMS, NORTH.

433

MIMMS, NORTH.

quoins and dressings, good chimney stacks,
and many gables. From the park there
is a pleasant way to South Mimms, through
Mimms Wood, carpeted in the spring with
innumerable blue-bells.
Potterells, the adjacent demesne, is a
sub-manor, without any history of interest,
but has a pleasant park and good house,
the property and seat of W. Cotton Curtis,
Esq. Brookmans is a sub-manor, so named
from a family by whom it was held in
the reign of Henry IV. It passed in that
of Henry VI. to the Fortescues. In 1639
it was purchased by Paul Pindar, Esq., of
London ; on the death of whose son, Sir
Paul Pindar, it went to his daughter, who
married Sir Wm. Dudley, and was sold
by them in 1666 to Andrew Fountaine,
who " built a very fair house upon this
manor in the year 1682," * and in 1701
sold it to John Lord Somers, Baron of
Evesham— the great Whig Lord Chan
cellor and minister. Somers, when dis
engaged from public affairs, spent much
of his time at Brookmans, occupied in
literary and antiquarian pursuits, and
especially in the formation and arrange
ment of his choice collections of rare
books, historical pamphlets, prints, and
medals ; and here he died, April 26,
1716. Somers was never married, and he
bequeathed Brookmans to a sister, the
wife of Sir Joseph Jekyll, Master of the
Rolls, cursorily commemorated by Pope —
" A joke on Jekyll or some odd Old Whig
Who never changed his principle or wig." t
Jekyll died at Brookmans in 1738, and
on the death of his widow, in 1746, the
estate descended to her nephew, John
Cocks, in whose family it remained till
1784, when it was sold to Alexander
Higginson, of London. It was purchased
in 1786 (after having passed through the
hands of Dr. Humphrey Sibthorpe) by
S. R. Gaussen, Esq., and is now the pro
perty and seat of his grandson, R. W.
Gaussen, Esq.
Brookmans is a large and stately struc
ture, whence, as when old Chauncy wrote,
" you have a pleasant prospect from the
front thereof towards the east over Essex,
and from the back thereof toward the
west into Bedfordshire." The park, of 600
* Chauncy, Hertfordshire, vol. ii., p. 441.
t Epilogue to the Satires, Dialogue i.

acres (the estate has 3600, or about three-
fourths of the parish), is rich in trees,
water, and views. Near the house are
extensive private grounds, a pinetum, and
gardens, famed for exotic trees, shrubs,
and flowers ; and a long avenue leading
to the lodge at the London end of the
park. Gobions (locally Gubbins), a sub-manor
lying immediately S. of Brookmans, so
called from its early owners, was in the
reign of Henry VII. " parcel of the ancient
revenue " of Sir John More, one of the
Justices of the Court of Queen's Bench,
and father of Sir Thomas More, who it
may be remembered, when Lord Chan
cellor, never failed, if, in passing through
Westminster Hall to Ms seat in Chancery,
he saw his father sitting in court, to fall
on his knees and ask his blessing. Sir
Thomas, when the estate came to him,
lived at Gobions with his house full of his
family, including not only children and
grandchildren, but his father's widow,
relatives, friends, dependants, books, per
haps, too, the " strange birds and beasts "
he loved and " kept, an ape, a fox, a wea
sel, and a ferret," as he did in his house
at Chelsea. His ownership of Gobions
was but short. After his execution, the
king took the manor, and though sub
sequently Sir Thomas More's son was re
stored to his honours, he only recovered
this estate, of which a lease had been
granted for the life of Elizabeth, in rever
sion. On the death of Elizabeth it was
obtained by Cresacre More, and it re
mained the property of a More till sold
by Basil More in the reign of Charles II.
to Sir Edw. Desbovery. In 1697 it was
sold to one Pitchcraft, packer, of London,
who transferred it to Sir Jeremy Sam-
brooke (who was an active county magis
trate, and erected the obelisk in comme
moration of the Battle of Barnet, noticed
under Barnet and Hadley). From the
Sambrookes it passed in succession to
Freeman, Hunter, Holmes, and Kemble,
and now belongs to Mr. Gaussen. More's
house was pulled down by Mr. Gaussen
shortly after he purchased the estate, and
the park incorporated with Brookmans.
Of the house not a vestige remains, and
only a few traces of the once famous
gardens. The Gateway (worth seeing) now serves
as the S. or London entrance to Brook-
28

MIMMS, NORTH.

434

MIMMS, SOUTH.

mans Park. It is of red brick, perhaps as
old as the great Chancellor ; an arch be
tween square battlemented towers of three
stages, a picturesque structure, and re
markable for the very unusual altitude
of the arch. By it is a good old brick
lodge, and an avenue a mile long leads
from it to Brookmans.
Peacham, author of "The Complete
Gentleman,' a well-known work of the
early part of the 17th cent., himself a
native of North Mimms, tells us that Sir
Thomas More wrote his Utopia at Gobions,
and Heywood his Epigrams at North
Mimms — though More says the Utopia
was written in the scraps of time he could
steal from his meals and sleep in the
midst of many and heavy occupations.*
" Merry John Heywood wrote his Epigrams, as
also dir Thomas More his Utopia, in the parish
wherein I was born (North Mims in Hartf ordshire
near to St. Albans) ; where either of them dwelt
and had fair possessions." f
" To its literary honours I may add that there in
all probability Cresacre More composed the account
of the life of his great grandfather. North
Mimms I am sorry to say has not been careful to
preserve the memory of her distingushed inhabit
ants. On enquiry lately made by a friend residing
near that place, it was discovered that there were
no memorials of the Mores in the church, and that
all the early registers are loBt." J
The Church (St. Mary) stands in North
Mimms Park, and near it are 3 magnifi
cent elms. It is of flint and stone, and
is said to have been built by Sir Hugh
de Magneville, in the reign of Stephen,
but the body of the church is much later,
and it has been recently restored. It
consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, an
embattled W. tower, with a thin leaded
spire, and a porch of flint and stone at
the S.W. In the tower are six bells. The
W. door has an E.E. moulding with bell-
flower ornaments, and oak leaves on the
capitals — weather-worn, but good. The E.
and W. windows have flowing Perp. tra
cery. The int. is neat, and has well-pro
portioned nave arcades. The E. and W. and
one or two of the other windows are filled
with painted glass. Monts. — N. of chancel,
figure of Justice holding the scales and a
roll of paper, seated on a sarcophagus of
black marble, marking the grave of Lord
* Letter to Peter Giles, prefixed to the Utopia
t Peacham, Compleat Gentleman, ed 1661
p. '95. '
J Joseph Hunter, Preface to Cresacre More's
Life of Thomas More, p. M.

Chancellor Somers, " who lived at Brook
mans Park," 1716. The mont. was erected
by his sister, Dame Elizabeth Jekyll. On
the N. wall of nave a small half-length
effigy of George Jarvis, d. 1718. Brasses.
— In chancel, on an altar tomb, mutilated
effigies of Sir Robert Knolles, d. 14 — , and
wife Elizabeth, d. 1458. Effigy of a knight
in armour. Richard Butler and wife, no
date. Effigy of Thomas Leucas, d. 1531.
Small but unusually fine brass of a priest
(no insc, but supposed to represent Wm.
de Kesteven, vicar, d. 1361). It is appa
rently Flemish, and resembles in style
that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans.
He is vested in chasuble and stole, has a
chalice on his breast, and over him is a
rich canopy, with, on the dexter side, St.
Peter, and underneath SS. John the Evan
gelist and Bartholomew, and in corre
sponding places on the sinister, SS. Paul,
James the Great, and Andrew, with their
respective emblems. Above is the Almighty
holding the soul of the deceased ; at the
sides are two angels swinging censers.
MIMMS, SOUTH, Middx., so
called to distinguish it from North Mimms,
Herts, on the St. Albans road, 14^ m.
from London, 3£ m. N.N.W. from Barnet,
and about 2 m. W. from the Potters Bar Stat.
of the Grt. N. Rly. Pop. of the par., 3571,
but this runs into Barnet town, and in
cludes the eccl. dists. of Barnet Christ
Church, 1598, and Potters Bar, 1198;
South Mimms proper had 776 inhab. in
1871. Inns : White Hart; Black Horse.
South Mimms is a pretty little vill.
standing on high ground (421 ft. above
the Ordnance datum) about the junction
of several roads. The Church (St. Giles)
is near the N. end of the vill., close to the
White Hart inn. It is an interesting and
picturesque building of flint and stone
(the S. side covered with stucco), and
consists of nave and N. aisle, chancel, W.
tower, and porch at the S.W. The tower,
tall, massive, with buttresses and good
angle turret, and partly covered with
ivy, is much above the average of village
ch. towers. In it is a peal of 6 bells. The
ch. is Early Perp. with flowing tracery,
except the N. aisle, which is of brick, re
built in 1526. The int. is pleasing, hut
without any marked feature, except that
the E. end of the N. aisle is shut off by a
carved oak parclose, and forms the Fro-

MIMMS, SOUTH.

435

MITCHAM.

wyk Chantry (founded and endowed, 1448,
by Thomas Frowyk and his wife Eliza
beth). The chancel was newly paved and
decorated at the restoration of the ch. in
1868. Some of the pews are old and well-
carved : obs. those N.E. of the nave. In
the windows of the N. aisle are some frag
ments of painted glass of the date and
no doubt part of the original decoration
of the rebuilt aisle. Monts. — On N. of
chancel, an altar tomb with fan-groined
canopy, supported on 4 twisted Renaissance
columns; without arms or insc. except
the initials R. H. In the Frowyk Chan
try, a tomb with recumbent effigy of a
knight in armour, under a rich open
canopy; on shields are the arms of the
Prowyks, but no insc. or date. There are
two or three brasses, with mutilated
effigies or inscriptions of members of the
Frowyk family ; and on the S. wall of
the nave is a tablet with a small figure of
a skull within a niche, and the insc. —
" Looke on, why turn awaye thyne eyne
This is no stranger's lace, the phesnamy is thyne."
By the ch.-yard, facing the street, is a
neat row of almshouses for 6 widows,
founded by Jas. Hickson, 1687, at Dancer's
Hill, but recently removed here by the
Brewers' Company, who are trustees of
the charity. There are other almshouses
in the parish.
Wrotham Park, the seat of the Earl of
Strafford, at the S. end of the par., be
tween the Hatfield and St. Albans roads,
immediately beyond the obelisk at Monken
Hadley ,was built from the designs of Ware,
for Admiral Byng, about 1754— only 3 or
4 years before his execution. It has since
been the chief seat of the Byng family.
The name was given to it from the an
cient seat of the family, Wrotham in Kent.
The house is a spacious, stately, semi-
classic structure of the style which pre
vailed towards the middle of the last cen
tury, and consists of a centre and wings,
with recessed tetrastyle portico, and a
pediment level with the second storey, in
the tympanum of which are the Byng
arms, etc. Along the. summit is a balus
trade. The park, of about 250 acres, is
fairly timbered. There is a public foot
path across it from Ganwick Corner.
Dyrham (or Derham) Park (Captain
F. Trotter) I m. W. ef Wrotham Park,
and nearly 2 m. S.W. of South Mimms

ch., derived its name from the Derham
family, its owners in the early part of the
14th cent., when by marriage it was trans
ferred to Thomas Frowyk, in whose de
scendants it continued till the end of the
15th cent. It afterwards belonged to the
Laceys and Austens; was then sold to
the Earl and Countess of Albemarle ; in
1773 was sold to Christopher Bethell, and
in 1798 to John Trotter, Esq., the founder
of the Soho Bazaar. The mansion is large
and good ; the park of 170 acres, pleasant
and well timbered. The entrance gate
by the St. Albans road — a tall central
arch, between Tuscan columns, with en
tablature and floral scrolls, surmounted
with a large vase, and flanked by small
lodges — is the triumphal arch erected in
London, by General Monk for the entry of
Charles II. in 1660.
MITCHAM, Surrey (Dom.
Michelham), 2 m. S.W. of Tooting, 9 m.
from Westminster Bridge, and a Stat, on
the L., Br., and S. C. Rly. (Croydon and
Wimbledon line) ; pop. 6498, of whom
453 were in the Holborn Union Industrial
Schools. The par., locally divided by Wykford
Lane into Upper and Lower Mitcham,
extends from Merton to Beddington, Car-
shalton, and Croydon. The houses are
scattered, but mostly lie along the road
from Tooting to Sutton, by the river
Wandle, and about Mitcham Common.
The soil is rich black mould, and for
more than a century Mitcham has been
famed for its gardens of sweet-herbs, and
flowers., Roses, lavender, and pepper
mint are grown here in immense quanti
ties for distilling for the perfumer ; and
liquorice, aniseed, popp&s, mint, chamo
miles, and other medicinal plants cover
hundreds of acres, and perfume the air
for a considerable distance. But outside,
and fringing these fragrant fields, are
many far from fragrant factories, notably
snuff, tobacco, and various other mills by
the Wandle, japan and varnish manv-
factories in Lower Mitcham and about
Merton Lane, floor-cloth, felt, and tele
graph works, tanneries, etc. On the
E. of the vill. stretches the brnad
breezy Mitcham Common, of 480 acre',
broken northwards towards the Rejgate
road by low hills and trees, and every
where pleasant.

MITCHAM.

436

MOLESET, EAST.

Famed of old for " good air and choice
company," Mitcham was early a favourite
place of residence. Sir Walter Raleigh
had a house here, in right of his wife,
Elizabeth Throckmorton, assigned her
probably as a marriage portion, the
Throckmorton-Carews being at that time
the owners of the three Mitcham manors,
Mitcham (or Canons), Ravensbury,
and Bigging and Tamworth. Raleigh
sold the property, on his release from
the Tower, 1615, to aid in providing
funds for his expedition to Guiana. The
mansion, which stood at the corner of
Wykford Lane, after having long served
as a boarding-school, was taken down
some years back. Sir Julius Osesar, Mas
ter of the Rolls, owned a house here,
through his wife, the widow of a Mr.
Dens, and in it, after several disappoint
ments, had the costly honour of entertain
ing Queen Elizabeth.
" On Tuesday, Sept. 12, 1598, the Queen visited
my house at Mitcham, and supped and lodged
there, and dined there the next day. I presented
her with a gown of cloth of silver richly embroi
dered ; a black net- work inantte with pure gold ; a
taffeta hat, white, with several flowers, and a jewel
of gold set therein with rubies and diamonds. Her
Majesty removed from my house after dinner the
13th of Sept. to Nonsuch, with exceeding good
contentment ; which Entertainment of her Majesty
with the charges of five former disappointments,
amounted to £700 sterling, besides mine own pro
visions, and whatever was sent unto me by my
friends." *
Donne the poet, before he took orders,
lived for two years at Mitcham in poverty
and ill-health. One of his letters is
dated " from my hospital at Mitcham ; "
and in it he says, " there is not one
person besides myself in my house well.
... I flatter myself in this that I am dying
too." At Mitcham lived Moses Mendez
(d. 1758), a poor poet, but " possessed of
an hundred thousand pounds." Mitcham
Grove, on the rt. ofthe road going towards
Sutton, was bought by Lord Clive, and
given to Alexander Wedderburn (after
wards Lord Chancellor Loughborough)
for his defence of his lordship in the
House of Commons. Lord Loughborough
sold it in 1789 to'Henry Hoare, Esq. (the
banker of Fleet Street), and he to Sir J.
W. Lubbock.f A greater Lord Chancellor,

* MS. of Sir Julius Csesar, in Brit Mus
quoted by Nichols, Progresses of Q. Elizabeth vol'
iii., pp. 68 and 429 -a.
t Lysons, Brayley.

and worthier man, must have owned a
house here (though there is no evidence
he lived in it), as Thomas Elrington, Esq.,
by his will, bearing date 1523, bequeathed
to Alice his wife " his chief house at
Mitcham, which was given to him by Sir
Thomas More." *
The old Clmrch (St. Peter and St.
Paul), a dilapidated fabric of flint and
stone, was taken down in 1820, and a
new ch. erected on its site, the base of the
old tower being retained. The new ch.,
consecrated Aug. 1822, is of brick and
cement, in the baldest style of the revived
Gothic. Inside are some monts. from the
old ch., but none of interest. One in
the N. aisle to Mrs. Eliz. Tait (d. 1821),
has a female figure in relief by West-
macott. Outside, under the W. window,
is a mont. to Alderman Sir Ambrose
Crowley, d. 1713, the Sir Humphrey
Greenhat of the Tatler (No. 73), who,
in order to check bribery at elections,
promised, as an acknowledgment for their
favour, a chaldron of good coals gratis
to every elector of Queenhithe who en
gaged to poll for him. In the ch.-yard
is the tomb of Mrs. Anne Hallam (d.
1740), an actress famous as Lady Macbeth
and Lady Touchwood.
Christ Church, Merton Lane, is a new
district ch., with parsonage and mission-
house adjoining, Gothic, of brick and
stone, erected by Messrs. Francis, in
1874, at the cost of Mr. W. J. Harris,
of Corringe Park. Dissenting and Ro
man Catholic chapels, and national and
board schools, are numerous. On Lower
Mitcham Green is a neat range of
Gothic almshouses, designed by Buckler,
and erected and endowed in 1829 by Miss
Tate, for 12 poor unmarried women above
65 years of age.
MOLESEY, EAST, Storey,
at the confluence of the Mole with the
Thames, opposite Hampton Court, with
which it is united by an iron girder
bridge (see Hampton Court), 13 m.
from London : pop. 2409. The Hampton
Court Stat, of the L. and S.W. Rly. is at
East Molesey, near the foot of the bridge.
Inns : the Bell, a good house with garden
and bowling-green; Prince of WaUs
Hotel; New Inn; Albion.

Lysons, vol. i., p.

MOLESEY, EAST.

437

MOLESEY, WEST.

In the Dom. Survey, East and West
Molesey are both included under Moles-
ham, the home or town by the Mole ; as
Molesey — Mole, and ey, an island — seems
to indicate that the Mole here formed an
island, by dividing, before joining the
Thames, as it still does somewhat higher
up. The form Moulsey, still often used,
is a modern and foolish corruption of the
old spelling, and ought to be definitely
abandoned. The manor of East Molesey was given
by Henry I. towards the endowment
of Merton Priory, whence it came to
be known as Molesey Prior. In 1536
Henry VIII. obtained East Molesey by
exchange from the prior of Merton, in
order to incorporate it with his newly
formed chase of Hampton Court. A
lease of the manor, held by Sir Thomas
Heneage, was at the same time renewed ;
the reversion was in 1571 granted by
Q. Elizabeth to Anthony Crane. Subse
quently leases were granted to various
persons till 1775, from which date the
lease has always been granted to the
holder of the manor of West Molesey. It
is now held by the Rev. H. Hotham.
The vill. extends in a rambling way for
some distance about the level meadows
on the 1. bank of the Mole, a large in
crease having of late years taken place
at the N. end towards the Thames and
about the rly. stat., mostly of small
houses, and known as Kent Town. The
whole district is flat, but there are many
pretty little bits of Dutch river scenery
about the different branches of the Mole,
and lanes with the water flowing across
the road. At the mouth of the Mole is
a large but not picturesque water and
steam flour and saw mill.
The Church (St. Mary), near the centre
of the vill., a mean building, was damaged
by fire in 1863, taken down, and a new
church, designed by Mr. Talbot Bury,
erected on the site, and consecrated Oct.
17, 1865. It is of flint and stone, late
E.E. in style, with some plate tracery in
the windows, and consists of nave and
aisles, with gabled windowsand chancel. A
tower at the N.W., with slated spire, was
added in 1867. The int. is neat, carefully
finished ; has open seats throughout ; the
chancel windows are filled with painted
glass, the E. window having a repre
sentation of the Ascension, by Heaton and

Butler ; the others, the Good Shepherd, St.
John, and St. Peter, by Lavers and Bar-
raud ; a good new stone pulpit, and an
old font restored. A brass from the old
ch. to Anthonie Standen, " cupbearer to
the King of Scotland, sometime Lord
Dafley, father to King James, now of
England, and also sworne servant to his
Majestie," d. 1611. In Kent Town, the
new part of the vill., nearer the stat., is a
district ch., St. Paul's, erected in 1850.
From the bridge-foot and river-side be
tween East Molesey and Molesey Hurst,
the best general views are obtained of
Hampton Court.
The private (" call it as you please pil
grim or vagabond ") press at which the
celebrated Martin Marprelate pamphlets
were printed, was first set up at Molesey,
whence, on its locality appearing to be
suspected, it commenced its wanderings
by a removal to Fawsley, Northampton
shire.*
MOLESEY, WEST; Surrey, f m.
W. of East Molesey, and IJ m. W. of the
Hampton Court Stat, of the L. and S.W.
Rly. : pop. 663.
West Molesey is a small straggling
village of poor houses, with a few of a
better grade, lying along the Walton road
some way inland from the Thames. The
country is pleasant but flat ; and there
are two or three mansions with good old
elms and oaks in the grounds.
The Church, rebuilt, except the tower,
in 1843, is of brick, a poor specimen of the
Gothic (Perp.) of its time. The N. aisle
was added in 1860. The tower at the W.
is of flint and stone, partially restored.
The windows are filled with painted glass.
The font, from the old ch., is Perp., octa
gonal, with quatrefoils in the panels. In
the ch.-yard is the tomb of the Right
Hon. J. Wilson Croker, who lived for
many years at Molesey Grove.
Among the old tree-embowered man
sions and pleasant villas that here stud the
Thames or overlook the Mole, are Apps
Court (Mrs. Gill), noticed under that
heading; Molesey Grove, already men
tioned as the residence of Mr. Croker,
now the seat of Sir Robert Walpole ;

* Puller, Church History, book ix., cent. 16;
Neale, HiBt. of the Puritans, vol. i., chap. viii.

MORDEN.

438

MORETOK

Mole Lodge (Alderman Sir R. W. Carden);
Tiie Grange (A. J. R. Stewart, Esq.)
The long level meadow by the Thames
between East and West Molesey, and op
posite Hampton ch. and vill., to which
there is a ferry, is Molesey Hurst, of old
notorious for duels and prize-fights, now
devoted to the scarcely more reputable
meetings of the Hampton Races.
"Breakfasted at Mr. Maule's very early, and
went along with him and the Bailie to see the great
fight betwixt Belcher and Cribb at Moseley Hurst
near Hampton. The day was very fine, and we
had a charming drive out in our coach-and-four,
and beat all the coaches and chaises by the way.
"We had three hard runB with one post-chaise and
four very fine horses before 'we could pass it, and
drove buggies, horsemen, and all off the road into
lanes and doors of houses &c. this last run 
At length got to the scene of action, which is on
the Thames, about 2 or 3 miles above Richmond.
Hampton Court is a little way farther down the
river. We crossed the Thames to get to the field
of battle on the Surrey side  Moaeley Hurst
tthe most beautiful meadow I almost ever saw,
hard and smooth as velvet, and of a great extent.
. . . We had fully 10,000 I suppose present as it
was, and many hundreds of carriages, horses, carts,
&c. Among the gentlemen present were the Duke
of Kent, Mr. "Wyndham, Lord Archibald Hamilton
(a famous hand I am told), Lord Kinnaird, Mr. T.
Sheridan, &c. &c. and all the fighting men in
town of course : the Game Chicken, Woods, Tring,
Pitloon &c. Captain Barclay of Urie received us
and put ub across the river in a boat, and he fol
lowed with Cribb, whom he backed at all hands.
.... The Hon. Barclay [Berkeley] Craven was
judge  Odds at setting-to 5 and 6 to 4 in
favour of Belcher." But after a long fight Belcher
" was at length obliged to give in. Poor fellow ! " *
MONKEN HADLEY, Middx. (see
Hadley). MOOR PARK, Heets (see Rick-
MANSWORTH). MORDEN, or MORDON, Surrey
(Dom. Mordone), 1 m. S.W. from Mit
cham, and about the same distance from
the Morden Stat, of the L., Br., and S. C.
Rly. (Croydon and Wimbledon line),
10 m. from London : pop. 787. Inns :
Crown; George.
The manor was confirmed by Edward
the Confessor to the Abbey of Westmin
ster, and remained its property till the
Dissolution. In 1563 it was granted by
Edward VI. to Ducket and Whitchurch,
* A. G. Hunter to Archibald Constable, April 8,
1807 : Archibald Constable and his lit. Correspond
ents, vol. i., p. 130.

who immediately transferred it to Richd.
Garth, Esq., in whose descendants it has
continued to the present time, those to
whom it passed by default of heirs male
assuming the name of Garth. The present
lord of the manor is Sir Richard Garth,
Q.C. The old manor-house, Morden Hall,
1 m. from the ch., is now a farm-house.
The pursuits are chiefly agricultural,
and much of the land is in grass. There
are brick-fields at Lower Morden, and
snufE-mills on the Wandle. The Church
(St. Lawrence) is a long narrow brick
building, the nave and chancel of the
same height, erected in 1636. The tower
at the W., of flint, low and embattled,
belonged to the older ch., as apparently
did also the Dec. tracery in the windows.
The E. window is filled with painted
glass. On the walls are numerous tablets
to Garths, Hoares, Meyricks, and other
local magnates ; also a late brass of a
priest, Wm. Booth, rector of this ch.
Morden Park, the seat of Major-Gen.
Sir William Erskine Baker, K.C.B., is a
spacious mansion seated on an eminence
in a pleasant park N.W. of the ch. Other
seats are : Ravensbury Park (G. P.
Bidder, Esq.) ; Morden Lane (Gen. W.
C. Hadden) ; and the Lodge (Sir Richard
Garth, Q.C.)

MORDEN COLLEGE,
(see Blackheath).

Kent

MO RE TON, Essex, a small
agric. Till., in a pretty neighbourhood, —
quiet, rustic, and abounding in trees,—
something over 3 m. N. by W. from
Ongar, along a crooked country lane
pop. 484.
The Uttle Church (St. Mary the Vir
gin), which stands by a farm-house be
yond the Till., consists of a nave (Perp.),
and chancel (E.E.), with a modern red
brick tower and shingled spire (in which
are 5 bells) at the W., and a wooden porch
on the S.W. The int., plain, and without
tomb or mont., was restored, the nave
in 1865, the chancel in 1868 : architect,
Mr. Chancellor, of Chelmsford. The
very pretty decoration of the chancel was
executed by Mr. Lea, of Lutterworth, from
a pattern discovered on scraping the walls.
Remains of mural paintings were disco
vered on removing the whitewash from

MORTLAKE.

439

MORTLAKE.

the walls of the nave, but too much de
cayed to preserve, or even to make out
the subjects. The lancet window, found
under the plaster in the chancel gable,
was opened, and with the others (two
under this at the E., two on the N., and
one on the S.) properly displayed. The
ch. is worth a visit.
MORTLAKE, Surrey (Dom.
Mortlage), on the Thames, immediately W.
of Barnes, 2 m. E. of Richmond, 8 m.
from Westminster Br., and a Stat, on the
Richmond branch of the L. and S.W.
Rly. : pop. 5119. Inns: Mortlake Hotel;
Sliip ; Spur.
Mortlake, of old a residence of the Abps.
of Canterbury, was famous in the reign of
EUzabeth as the abode of Dr. Dee ; in the
reign of James I. and Charles L for its
tapestry works ; in the 18th and early 19th
centuries unrivalled for the growth of as
paragus ; and now probably best known as
the goal of the Universities Boat Race.
The manor belonged to the see of
Canterbury before the Conquest, and,
except during a brief usurpation by Bp.
Odo, it remained its property till it was
conveyed, along with Wimbledon, to
Henry VIII. by Abp. Cranmer in ex
change for other lands. The Manor-
house served the Abps. for occasional
residence and ceremonies. Anselm cele
brated in it the Whitsuntide of 1099. In
1136 Abp. Corboyle lay ill in his house at
Mortlake. Abp. Peckham died there in
1292 ; and Abp. Reynolds in 1327. When
Abp. Mepham, or Meopham, was excom
municated by Pope John XXI. on ac
count of a dispute with Grandison, Bp. of
Exeter, he retired to his house at Mort
lake, spent many days there in solitude,
and died of grief shortly after, 1333.
Nicholas Bubworth, keeper of the privy
seal and lord treasurer to Henry IV. , was
consecrated Bp. of London, 1 406, in the
chapel of the manor-house. Warham was
the last Abp. who resided at Mortlake,
the manor being alienated by his suc
cessor. The house was afterwards known
as the King's. The last notice Lysons
found of it was in 1547, but Bray says it
was standing in 1663. It was probably
taken down shortly after.* The manor
is now included in that of Wimbledon.
* Manning and Bray, Hist, and Antiq. of Surrey,
vol. iii., P- 305 ; Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iii.,

The vill. consists of a long narrow
street of irregular houses, a few of the
substantial old red-brick kind, but the
greater part mean and flimsy ; the ch. on
the 1., near the centre of the street ;
wharves, boat-houses, malt-kilns, and a
large brewery by the river ; a green, girt
about with modern dwellings, beyond; and
a lane lined with tenements, leading to
the pretty hamlet of East Sheen.
Works for weaving pictorial tapestry
were established here about 1619, by Sir
Francis Crane, in imitation of the royal
tapestry works of France, then in great
repute. The king was interested in the
enterprise, and gave Crane £2000 towards
the cost of the buildings. At first the
designs were obtained from abroad, but
in 1623 the services were secured of
Francis Cleyn or Klein (he signed his
designs indifferently F. C. and F. K.), a
native of Rostock, then in the service of
the King of Denmark. James I. made
him designer to the works at Mortlake, a
free denizen of England, and settled on
him " a certain annuitie of £100 by the
year during his natural life." Cleyn was
a ready and skilful designer, and Crane a
judicious manager, and the works were
remarkably successful. Many large and
costly pieces were produced and eagerly
purchased for the decoration of patrician
halls. The Lord Keeper Williams paid
Sir Francis Crane £2500 for the Four
Seasons, in tapestry. At Knole are por
traits of Crane and Vandyck in silk tapes
try, as well as Vandyck's picture from
which they were wrought. Charles I.
was munificent in his patronage. While
at Madrid in 1623 he directed £500 to be
paid for a set of Mortlake tapestry, repre
senting the Months, he had ordered to be
made for him ; and directly after his ac
cession to the throne he gave an acknow
ledgment of indebtedness to Sir Francis
Crane "for three suits of gold tapestry
for our use, £6000 ; " granted him an an
nuity of £1000 ; and further, an allowance
of " £2000 yearly for the better mainte
nance of the said works of tapestries for
ten years." Somewhat later the king
gave to Crane and the Duchess-Dowager
of Richmond the exclusive right for 17
years of making copper farthings — no
doubt a profitable monopoly. Sir Francis
p. 464 ; Lysons, Environs, vol. i., p. 266 ; Fuller
Church History.

MORTLAKE.

440

MORTLAKE.

Crane died about 1635 ; his brother sold
his interest in the works to the king, and
the works were thenceforth known as the
King's Works. It was in order to their
being copied at Mortlake, that Charles I.,
at the suggestion of Rubens, purchased
the Cartoons of Raphael, long the glory
of Hampton Court, and now of Kensing
ton. There is a warrant dated Dec. 3,
1639, to " Sir James Palmer Knt. Gov. of
his Ma-25 workes for making of Hangings
at Mortlake," directing him "to sell unto
the Earle of Holland 5 peeces of Hangings
of the story of the Apostles being of the
second sort, for the some of £886. 17. 6,
being the price his Ma,e allowed for the
same." Mortlake copies of the Cartoons
are now scarce, but Mortlake tapestry
is often met with. From contemporary
references it must have been very popular.
" Timothy. Why Lady, do you think me
Wrought in a loom ? Some Dutch piece weavM
at Mortlake ? " *
"Here some rare piece
Of Rubens or Vandyck presented is :
There a rich suit of Moreciocfc-Tapestry,
A bed of damask, or embroidery. " t
During the civil war the Tapestry House
was seized as royal property. In the Par
liamentary Survey it is described as a
building 115 ft. long and 84 ft. deep,
having on the second floor one great
working room 82 ft. long and 20 wide,
wherein axe 12 looms for making tapestry
work of all sorts, and another room about
half as long containing 6 looms, a great
room called the limner's room, and on
the third floor a long gallery divided
into 3 rooms. Charles II. proposed to
revive the manufacture, and invited
Verrio to England to make the designs;
but the king found other use for his
money and other employment for the
painter, and the tapestry works were left
to their fate. Lysons ascertained that
the tapestry house occupied the site of
Queen's Head Court, and that the house
" on the opposite side of the road, built
by Charles I. for Francis Cleyn, was
pulled down in or about the year 1794."
In the Parliamentary Survey this house is
called " the limmer's tenement," and valued
at £9 per annum. By the ch. register it
* Jasper Mayne, The City Match, fol. 1639.
+ Oldham, A Satyr in imitation of the Third of
Juvenal, written in May 1682, Works, ed. 1703,
p. 443.

appears that Cleyn had 5 children born at
Mortlake. Less famous than the tapestry
works, but also a manufactory of some
note in its day, was that of Delft and
earthenware, established here early m the
18th cent., and which finally died out
early in the 19th.
The first Church at Mortlake was built
in 1348, the mother-ch. being at Wimble
don. The present fabric appears from an
insc. on the tower to have been erected
in 1543 : has been many times altered,
enlarged, and improved, the last time in
1860, and is now ugly and uninteresting.
The only picturesque feature is the patched,
battered, and ivy-clad tower. In it is a
ring of 8 bells. Some of the numts. are
of noticeable people. One is a tablet
to Sir Philip Francis, d. 1818, the reputed
author of Junius. Another is the white
marble sarcophagus of the most common
place of Prime Ministers, Henry Adding-
ton, Viscount Sidmouth, d. at the White
Lodge, Richmond Park, in 1814 ; also of
Ursula Viscountess Sidmouth, d. 1811,
with alto-rilievo of the dying lady and
her attendants, and a long prosaic
rhyming epitaph. On S.E. wall a costly
structure of coloured marbles, with effigies,
of the Hon. Francis Coventry, 2nd son
of the Lord Keeper Coventry, d. 1699.
Alderman Sir John Barnard, d. 1764,
Pope's lord-mayor :
" I never (to my sorrow I declare)
Din'd with the Man of Ross, or my Lord
Mayor. " *
Dr. Dee, the most famous of English
astrologers, was buried in the chancel in
1608. On the N. wall near the chancel
is a tablet to the Rev. Richard Byfield,
d. 1664, rector of Long Ditton, and one of
the Assembly of Divines. The font has
Abp. Bourchier's arms on it — a cross en
grailed between four water-bougets — and
was probably given by him to the ch. The
painting of the Entombment by G. Seghers
was given to the ch. for an altar-piece
by Benj. Vandergucht, the engraver and
picture dealer (son of the more eminent
Gerard V.), who had a country house at
East Sheen : he was drowned by the up
setting of a boat in which he was crossing
the Thames at Chiswick, 1794, and buried
in Mortlake ch.
In the ch.-yard obs. the flat tombstone
* Pope, Epilogue to the Satires, Dial. ii..

MORTLAKE.

441

MORTLAKE.

with a Latin insc. to John Partridge, the
astrologer, and author of the popular
almanac named after him. Partridge
and his almanac served as a. target for
the wit of Swift and Steele, the former
of whom went so far as to foretell his
death in ' Predictions for the year 1708,'
in which, under the afterwards famous
name of Isaac Bickerstaff , he announced
that his first prediction " relates to Par
tridge the Almanac-maker. ... I have
consulted the star of his nativity by my
own rules, and find he will infallibly die
upon the 29th of March next, about 11
at night of a raging fever." When the
night was passed Swift issued 'An Ac
count of the Death of Mr. Partridge the
Almanac-maker, upon the 29th inst.,' with
full particulars of the time and manner
of his decease. Afterwards Steele de
scribed in the Tatler (No. 99) the burial
of this professor of physick and astrology
" from Cordwainers on Tuesday the 29th
instant ; " and Swift wrote an elegy on his
death, and wound up with his epitaph :
" Here, five feet deep, lies on his back
A cobbler, star-monger, and quack," etc.
Partridge, taking the announcement seri
ously, issued an advertisement in which
he assured the public that so far from
being dead "blessed be God, John Par
tridge is still living and in health and
all are knaves who report otherwise ; "
and the others retorted by a ' Demonstra
tion ' of his death and burial. His actual
burial took place in Mortlake ch.-yard
in 1715, seven years after that announced
by his persecutors. Tomb of Alderman
Barber (d. 1740), who erected the bust in
Westminster Abbey of Butler the author
of Hudibras, and pilloried by Pope in a
couplet intended for the scroll in Shak-
speare's hand.
" Then Britain loVd me and preserv'd my fame
Pure from a Barber's or a Benson's name."
Dr. Dee the astrologer lived in a house
near the river-side, no longer standing.
Here he was several times visited by Queen
Elizabeth, and lived in very expensive
style. Being obliged to quit England in
1583, the mob, who regarded him as a
magician, broke into his house and, ac
cording to his own estimate, damaged his
library to the value of £390 ; destroyed
his chemical apparatus, which had cost
him £200 ; broke a fine quadrant which
cost him £20, and took away a magnet

for which he gave £33. Recalled to Eng
land by the Queen, he returned to Mort
lake, was restored to favour, and received
as compensation the promise of various
offices, some of which, as the Chancellor
ship of St. Paul's, he obtained. In 1595 he
was appointed Warden of Manchester,
but after a long series of disputes with
the fellows he returned to Mortlake in
1604. With James I. he was for a time
in favour, but shortly fell into discredit,
and his last days were passed in poverty,
he being obliged to sell his library, as
Lilly tells us, piecemeal for his sustenance.
He died at Mortlake in 1608, aged 81,
and was buried in the chancel of Mort
lake ch., where Aubrey was shown an
old marble stone as belonging to his
tomb.* " Dr. Dee dwelt in a house neere the water-side,
a little westward from the church. The buildings
which Sir Fr. Crane erected for working hangings
.... were built upon the ground whereon Dr.
Dee's laboratory and other rooms for that use
stood. Upon the west is a square court, and the
next is the house wherein Dr. Dee dwelt, now
[1673] inhabited by a Mr. Selbury, and farther west
his garden."!
" 1580. Sep. 17.— The Queene's Majestie came
from Rychmond in her coach, the higher way to
Mortlak felde, and when she came right against the
church she turned down toward my house : and
when she was against my garden in the felde she
stode there a good while, and than cam ynto the
street at the great gate of the felde, where she
espyed me at my doore making obeyaanceB to her
Majestie ; she beckoned her hand for me ; I cam to
her coach side, she very speedily pulled off her
glove and gave me her hand to kiss ; and, to be
short, asked me to resort to her court, and to give
her to wete when I cam ther." J
On another occasion (1575) she came
with several of her nobility to see his
library, but being told that his wile was
lately dead would not enter the house, and
Dee had to show her Majesty at the coach-
door his glass, or ' black-stone,' about the
properties of which she was curious, and
which had earned for him the reputation
of a magician. This stone was among the
curiosities collected by Horace Walpole at
Strawberry Hill. It is now in the collec
tion formed by the late Lord Londes-
borough, and at present deposited in the
Alexandra Palace.§
* Aubrey, Antiq. of Surrey, vol. i., p. 8 ; Lysons,
vol. i., p. 274 ; Nichols, Progresses of Q. Elizabeth,
vol. i., p. 416. _ „ „ ^
t MS. Ashmole, 1788, fol. 19 ; Diary of Dr. Dee,
edited for Camden Soc. by J. O. HaUiweU, p. 2.
J Dr. Dee's Diary, p. 8.
§ The story of the identification, loss, and reco-

MOTTINGHAM.

442

MUSWELL HILL.

Dee's son, Arthur, subsequently physician
to the Emperor of Russia, and to Charles I.
of England, was born at Mortlake in 1575,
and when a boy acted as his father's skryer
in discerning spirits, etc., by the black-
or show-stone. Anthony Wood relates
that when a child he frequently played
with quoits of gold, which his father made
at Prague by transmutation.
Phillips, the fellow-actor of Shakspeare,
describes himself in his will as " Augustine
Phillips of Mortlake in the county of
Surrey, Gentleman," and directs his body
'to be " buried in the chancel of the parish
church of Mortlake." He died in 1605,
and was doubtless buried in the chancel ;
but the register between 1603 and 1613 is
Unfortunately lost. One of his bequests
is " a thirty-shilling piece in gold " to his
" fellow " William Shakspeare : it is not
unlikely that Shakspeare was a visitor to
Mortlake in Phillips's day.
According to the local tradition, a house
known as Cromwell House was the resi
dence of the great Protector ; it really
belonged to his son Henry. It was the
residence, in his later years, of Edward
Colston, the eminent benefactor of Bristol,
who died in it, Oct. 11, 1721. After various
vicissitudes, the house was pulled down in
1858, and anew red-brick Tudor mansion,
Cromwell House (J. Wigan, Esq.), built on
the site. John Anstis, Garter-King-at-
Arms, author of the ' Register of the
Garter,' etc., died, March 1744, at his
house at Mortlake.
MOTTINGHAM, Kent, an extra-
parochial hamlet of Eltham, from which
it is 1 m. S. by W. ; the Eltham Stat, of
the S.E. Rly. (Dartford line) is in Mot-
tingham, about \ m. from the houses :
pop. 475. Mottingham is a little but
fast-growing place, with new houses
springing up on every side, a temporary
ch., and all the signs of suburban progress.
The neighbourhood is, however, still open,
Verdant, and agreeable, and there are good
igrounds and old houses. Mottingham
House (F. A. Schroeder, Esq.) marks the
very of "the Black-stone, with which Dr. Dee used
to call his spirits" is told at length by H. Walpole
in a letter to Sir Horace Mann, March 22, 1771,
Letters, vol. v., p. 290. At the Strawberry Hill
sale, it was bought by Mr. Smythe Pigott, and at
the sale of his collection, Dec. 1853, it was pur
chased for Lord Londesborough.

site, and perhaps retains in part the fabric,
of Mottingham Place, a stately mansion
built by George Stoddard, Esq., in 1560 ;
and Fawey Hill (Mrs. Hartley) char
mingly placed a little S. of the hamlet, was
in the last cent, the seat of Earl Bathurst,
when Lord Chancellor, and afterwards of
General Morrison, etc.
" A strange and marvellous accident happened at
this place, upon the 4th day of August, 1585, in a
field which -belongeth to Sir Percival Hart. Be
times in the morning, the ground began to sink,
so much, that three great elm trees were suddenly
swallowed into the pit, the tops falling downward
into the hole : and before 10 of the clock, they
were so overwhelmed, that no part of them might
be discerned, the cave being suddenly filled with
water : the compass of the hole was about 80 yards,
and so profound, that a sounding line of 50 fathoms
could hardly find or feel any bottom. Ten yards
distant from that place there was another piece of
ground sunk in Hke manner, near the highway,
and so nigh a dwelling-house, that the inhabitants
were greatly terrified therewith. " *
Little appears to be known of it now :
Lysons wrote of it 70 years ago, " The
spot where this strange accident is said to
have happened, is near the road leading to
Fairey Hill ; it presents now only a slight
inequality of surface, and is supposed to
have been occasioned by the failing-in of
what had at some remote period been a
chalk-pit." f
MOULSEY, EAST, and WEST,
Subrey (see Molesey).
MUSWELL HILL, Middx., on
which stands the Alexandra Palace, about
1 m. W. by N. of Hornsey vill., and 1 J m.
N. by E. of Highgate : Muswell Hill Stat,
on the Alexandra Palace br. of the G. N.
Rly., is 6 m. fr. King's Cross. The hamlet
of Muswell Hill, with the addition of a
detached portion of Clerkenwell,the priory
estate noticed below, forms an eccl. dist.
of Hornsey : pop. 1414 (Hornsey par.
1370; Clerkenwell, 44). Inns, Green
Man at the summit, Victoria at the foot
of the hill.
Muswell Hill is a mass of London clay,
similar to the neighbouring hills of High-
gate and Hampstead, but somewhat lower,
and capped with glacial gravel and.
boulder clay — the S.E. edge of the North
London glacial deposits noticed under
* Philipott, Villare Cantianum, 1659, p. 136.
t Lysons, Environs, vol. i., p. 492.

MUSWELL HILL.

443

MUSWELL HILL.

Finchley. These beds contain fragments
of chalk, clay, coal, and slate, and boulders
of granite, sandstone and limestone, fossil
shells, and other organic remains — " a
strange heterogeneous mixture," as Sir
Charles Lyell terms it, "of the ruins of
adjacent lands, with stones both angular
and rounded, which have come from points
often very remote." *
The place owes its name to a holy well
near the top of the hill. Becoming noted
for the cure of diseases, a chapel was
erected over the well, in 1112, by the
Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, at Clerk-
enwell, the ground having been given for
the purpose by John de Beauvoir, Bp. of
London, and lord of the manor of Hornsey.
The chapel was known as that of Our
Lady of Muswell, and was regarded as an
appendage to the priory, whose fortunes it
followed. After the suppression of reli
gious houses, the manor of Muswell, with
the site of the chapel and farm, was alien
ated to the Cowpers, and passed through
various hands, till purchased by William
Roe in 1577, in whose family it continued
till the end of the 17th cent., one of
the number having built here " a faire
house." " There is on the hill a spring of faire water,
which is now within the compasse of Sir Nicholas
Roe's cellar in the said house. Here was sometime
an Image of Our Lady of Muswell, whereunto was
a continuall resort, in the way of pilgrimage,
growing (as it goes by tradition from father to the
sonne) in regard of a great cure which was per
formed by this water upon a King of Scots, who
being strangely diseased, was (by some divine in
telligence) advised to take the water of a Well in
England ; which, after long scrutation and inquisi
tion, this Well was found, and performed the
cure." t
The well still remains on the E. of the
Colney Hatch lane, and though covered,
the water is accessible by a pump ; but
its fame has departed.
Muswell Hill Church (St. James), on
the crown of the hill, 1. of the road to
Highgate, is a white-brick E.E. build
ing, with an ivy-covered tower and thin
spire at the E. end, erected in 1842, and
enlarged, and a good deal altered, in
1874-75. The first incumbent was Dr.
Jackson, the present Bp. of London.
* Lyell, Elements of Geology, chap. xi. ; and see
Walker's Glacial Drifts of Muswell Hill and
Finchley, 1874.
t Weever, Ancient Funeral Monuments, fol.
1631, p. 499 ; Norden, Spec. Brit. : Middlesex, p. 36.

On the slope of tho hill (1. going towards
Crouch End) is the Grove, a large white
mansion, standing within finely timbered
and picturesque grounds and gardens of
16 acres, very famous in their day, laid
out by Dr. Johnson's friend, Topham
Beauclerk, whose summer residence it
was.* " This morning away to dine at Muswell Hill
with the Beauclerks, and florists and natural his
torians, Banks and Solonders." f
Johnson is said to have frequently
visited Topham Beauclerk here, and a
walk is still called Johnson's Walk. Bos
well does not mention these visits, but he
records an incident which seems to au
thenticate them :
"Topham Beauclerk told me, that at his house
in the country two large ferocious dogs were fight
ing. Dr. Johnson looked steadily at them for a
little while ; and then, as one would separate two
little boys, who are foolishly hurting each other,
he ran up to them, and cuffed their heads till he
drove them asunder. "%
House and grounds are now incorporated
in the Alexandra Park estate, but pre
served intact, and the grounds are acces
sible to visitors to the palace.
At the foot of the hill, lying back on
the rt., is a long, low brick cottage, with
a verandah in front, and a lawn sloping
down to a pond by the roadside, which
was the residence of Abraham Newland,
cashier of the Bank of England, whose
signature to the bank-notes made his name
once universally familiar.
" 0 rare Abraham Newland ! Sham Abraham
you may,
But you must not sham Abraham Newland."
The poet Moore rented it in 1817, and his
eldest daughter, Anne Barbara, died here,
and lies in Hornsey ch.-yard. (See
Hoknsey.) "Jan. 15, 1823.— To the foot of Muswell Hill to
look at the Cottage I inhabited there, the only one
I do not again see with pleasure. " §
From a mistaken tradition that the poem
was written in it, the cottage is now
named Lalla Rookh : the poem was writ-

* Letters from Beauclerk to Lord Charlemont
(then in Ireland) from " Muswell Hill, Summer
Quarters, July 18, 1774," and on other occasions
are printed in Hardy's Life of the Earl of Charle
mont. t Horace Walpole to the Countess of Ossory,
June 11, 1773 ; Letters, vol. v., p. 471.
t Boswell, Life of Johnson, vol. v., p. 65.
§ T. Moore's Diary.

NASING.

444

NASING.

ten before, but published whilst Moore
lived here. The cottage will be easily
recognised : it lies next to the Victoria
Inn (which nearly faces the entrance to
the Alexandra Palace), and has Lalla
Rookh painted on the gate-posts.
The Alexandra Palace and Park oc
cupy the E. portion of the summit, and
the S. and E. slopes of Muswell HiU. The
estate of 480 acres was purchased in 1859
by a company formed to provide for the
north of London an establishment similar
to that of the Sydenham Crystal Palace
on the south. About 220 acres were
appropriated to the palace and public
grounds, the rest reserved for villas. After
various delays, the palace was completed,
and opened May 24, 1873. Sixteen days
after it was destroyed by fire. A new
building was, however, commenced with
out delay on the old foundations, but of
uniform width throughout, instead of be
ing broken by transepts. It was opened
on the 1st of May, 1875.
The new Alexandra Palace is a substan
tial structure of brick, iron, and glass,
unnecessarily ugly externally, from what
ever point it be viewed, but of vast extent
and capacity, its dimensions being 900
feet by 430, and the area included about
7J acres. Of the interior, the chief fea
ture is the great Central Hall, 386 ft. long,

184 wide, and 85 ft. to the centre of the
semi-cylindrical roof. It has a great or
gan, and an orchestra for 2000 performers.
West of the hall is an enclosed garden,
240 feet by 140. Theatres, concert rooms,
picture and sculpture galleries, reading
and billiard rooms, corridors, banqueting
halls, and a conservatory, occupy their
several places, and leave ample room -
for ethnological models and exhibitions,
collections of arms and armour, stalls
for objects of ornamental art, and other
articles, the particulars of which will be
best learnt from the official hand-books.
The grounds are pleasant, in parts well-
timbered (with oaks, elms, and cheenuts),
and afford fine views across the valley of
the Lea, and over more or less of Middle
sex, Essex, Kent, Surrey, and Hertford
shire. The best part of the grounds is
the Grove, with its delightful old shady
walks and avenues, holly hedges, and
great oaks, elms, chesnuts, and firs. In
one part of the grounds is a Japanese
village, in another a lake and pile-
dwellings. A racecourse of over a mile,
with a grand-stand, has been provided for
visitors needing excitement, as well as
cricket, croquet, archery, and trotting
grounds, a circus, etc. On Whit Monday
1875, no fewer than 94,125 persons visited
the palace.

NASING, or NAZEING, Essex
(Dom. Nazinga), a secluded vill.,
about 4£ m. N. E. of Waltham Abbey, and
a like distance N.W. from Epping ; 17 m.
from London : pop. 786. From the Brox-
bourne Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Cam
bridge line) a walk of about 3 m. E., past
the Crown Inn (famous for its flower gar
dens), across the Nasing Marshes, and
along quiet lanes, the last part up a sharp
hill — reminding you all the way of the
Dutch landscape painters and our own
David Cox — will bring you
" To where bleak NasiTigS lonely tower o'erlooks
Her verdant fields." *
The Cliurch (All Saints), from its posi
tion on the crown of the hill, shows well,
* Soott of Amwell.

and commands fine views over the valley
of the Lea. It is of flint and stone, rough
cast and weather-beaten, propped by
brick buttresses, and much patched.'
Chiefly Perp., it comprises nave and N.'
aisle, chancel, and W. tower of brick,
embattled, with an octagonal stair turret
at the S.E. angle, and short shingled spire.
In it are 5 bells. Obs. the large Perp.
window in the lower part of the tower,
and the smaller ones above, of moulded
brick. The E. window is filled with
painted glass. Notice the curious passage
to the rood-loft in pier of chancel arch.
The vill. lies along the hill S. of the ch.
Nasing was given by Harold to the
Abbey he founded at Waltham, and it re
mained in the possession of the Abbey till
the Dissolution. In 1547 it was granted.

NAVESTOCK.

445

NAVESTOCK.

by Edward VI. to Sir Ralph Sadleir, who
the same year transferred it to Sir Anthony
Denny. Through many handsit descended
to the Wake family, and is now the pro
perty of Sir Herewald Wake, Bart. The
manor-house was at Nasingbury, now a
farm-house, at the edge of the Lea Marshes,
14 m. W. of the ch. The Abbot of
Waltham had a park at Nasing, which he
obtained licence to enclose from Henry
III., in 1225. Morant conjectures it was
at Fairmead. Nasing Park (Robt. Henty,
Esq.) is a good house, in a commanding
position, immediately S. of the ch. and
village. NASH MILL, Herts (see Abbot's
Langley).
NAVESTOCK, Essex (Dom.
Nacestoca; Nasetoca, Nasingstoke, Nas-
toke, are early varieties of spelling), 4 m.
S. of Ongar by road, 5 m. E. of Brent
wood, 19 m. from London : pop. 913.
The par., which extends to South Weald,
has a circuit of 25 m. ; the lower parts are
a wet and heavy clay, the uplands gravel ;
the occupations are chiefly agricultural.
The country is secluded, thoroughly rural,
undulating, in parts richly wooded, the
lanes well lined with trees ; Navestock
Park and woods exceedingly picturesque.
Altogether, Navestock is a favourable and
unspoiled example of Essex scenery.
The manor of Navestock is said to have
been given to St. Paul's Cathedral by
King Edgar. The authenticity of the
grant has been questioned, but Navestock
belonged to the Chapter before the Con
quest, and it remained its property till the
Dissolution. Queen Mary granted the
manor in 1553 to Sir Edward Waldegrave,
and it has ever since remained in the
Waldegrave family, who have at different
times bought up and incorporated the sub-
manors. The manor-house, Navestock
Hall, a short distance N. of the ch., was
built (or rebuilt) by James, 1st Earl of
Waldegrave (created Viscount Chewton
and Earl of Waldegrave 1729), and re
mained the chief residence of the family
till taken down, and the materials sold by
auction, by John James, 6th Earl, in 1811.
The house had been despoiled of some of
its treasures before his time.
"The present lord [John, 3rd Earl] bought all

the furniture pictures at Navestock ; the few now
to be sold are the Tery fine ones of the best mas
ters, and likely to go at vast prices, for there are
several people determined to have some one thing
that belonged to Lord Waldegrave." *
Walpole has sketched it when at its
best : —
" I came this morning in all this torrent of heat
from Lord Waldegrave's of Navestock. It is a dull
?lace, though it does not want prospect backwards.
he garden is small, consisting of two French alUes
of old limes, that are comfortable, two groves that
are not so, and a green canal ; there is besides a
paddock. The house was built by his father, and
ill finished, but an air Beigneural in the furniture :
French glasBes in quantities, handsome commodes,
tables, screens, &o. , goodish pictures in rich frames,
and a deal of noblesse a la St. Germain — James II.
Charles II. the Duke of Berwick, her Grace of
Buckingham, the Queen Dowager in the dreBs she
visited Madame Maintenon, her daughter the
Princess Louisa  All this is leavened with
the late King, the present King, and Queen
Caroline. " t
The present Navestock Hall is in the
occupation of J. Bull, Esq. Navestock
Park is of considerable extent, in parts
very wild, and contains a long sheet of
water, the Lady's Pond. Dudbrook
House, the seat of Frances Countess
Waldegrave, is about £ m. E. of Nave
stock Park, towards Kelvedon Hatch.
Navestock Church (St. Thomas) stands
within Navestock Park. It is small, and
rather picturesque ; has nave and S. aisle,
small wooden belfry and spire, in which is
a peal of 5 bells. The N. door has a good
Norm. arch. In the chancel is a mural
mont. to " the two first Earls Waldegrave,
father and son, both of the names of James,
both servants of that excellent Prince
George the Second, both by him created
Knights of the most noble Order of the
Garter." The insc, which runs on to an
inordinate length, was written and the
monument erected by Walpole's " royal
niece," the widow of the 2nd Earl, who
afterwards married William Henry Duke
of Gloucester. There are several other
memorials of the Waldegrave family. The
most noticeable, perhaps, is one to Lieut.
the Hon. Edw. Waldegrave, drowned at
sea 1809, with an elaborate and unsuccess
ful allegory in marble by Bacon. Another,
with a good medallion, is to Lord Rad-
stock, d. 1825.

* Horace Walpole to George Montagu, Nov. 12,
1763 ; Letters, vol. iv., p. 122.
+ Walpole to G. Montagu, Esq., July 26, 17-59.
Letters, vol. iii., p. 237.

NEASDON.

446

NONSUCH PALACE.

Morant * notices an ancient entrench
ment on Navestock Common, " and near it
runs a high bank with a ditch on each
side." This is not so readily made out now
as it seems to have been a century ago.
Navestock Side, IJ m. S.E. from Nave
stock ch., is a pretty out-of-the-way ham
let of two or three comfortable farm
houses, cottages, a general shop, a mill, a
decent country inn, the Green Man, and
Abbotswick House, the seat of Ambrose
Colson, Esq. Navestock Heath is another
and smaller hamlet, 1 m. S. of Navestock.
NEASDON, Middx., a hamlet and
prebendal manor of Wlllesden, midway
(J m.) between that vill. and Kingsbury.
The Dudding Hill Stat, of the Midland
and S.W. Junction Rly. is J m. S. of
Neasdon. Inn, the Spotted Dog, a sort
of suburban tea-garden. The hamlet is a
small collection of scattered cottages,
with a considerable sprinkling of good
houses, some in large grounds. The
neighbourhood is green and pleasant.
NETTESWELL, Essex (anc.
Netheswelle, Necliesamell, Netysmell), a
village on the road from Latton to Parn-
don, and 1 m. S. from the Burnt Mill
Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Cambridge line) :
pop. 333.
The vill., Nettesreell Street, is a rambling
collection of detached cottages. The
Church (St. Andrew) stands apart by a
farm-house, and there are broad views over
an open flat country from the E. side of
the ch.-yard. The ch. is rough-cast, small
and plain ; has nave and chancel, wooden
belfry rising from the W. end of the roof,
with shingled spire, containing 3 bells,
and a dilapidated wooden porch on the
S.W. At the W. end of the nave are two
lancet windows in each side, and 3 in the
chancel ; the other windows are Perp., and
poor. The int. is plain, and has high
pews. Monts., to two members of the
Marten family, with medallions, and life-
size figure of mourning female. Mural
tablet to Col. Francis Maule, d. 1829.
Notice on the S. wall of nave, W. of the
porch, a small but curious terra-cotta
heraldic relief — lions supporting a Tudor
rose, a hare under the dexter lion, serpent
under the sinister.
* Hist, of Essex, 1768, vol. i., p. 181.

NEWGATE STEEET, Heets
(see Hatfield).
NONSUCH PALACE, Sueeey, a
residence of Henry VIII., and Elizabeth,
stood a little W. of Cheam, but in the par.
of Cuddington (Dom. Codintone) : a
parish, as they say in the neighbourhood,
" without village or shop, church, chapel,
school, or public," but which figures in the
population returns for 375 inhab. This
pop. is, however, chiefly due to the growth
of Worcester Park, 1 J m. N.W. of Nonsuch,
a collection of villas and cottages about a
Stat, on the Epsom br. of the L. and S.W.
Rly. Henry VIII. acquired the manor of
Cuddington in 1539, in exchange for the
rectory of Little Melton in Norfolk, and
added it to his Honour of Hampton Court.
Henry enclosed nearly 1600 acres of land
to form two parks, pulled down the
church and manor-house, which stood
close together,* and built on the site so
magnificent a palace that, as Leland tells
in Latin verse, it was called Nonesuch, be
cause it was without any equal. It was,
however, so far from completed at Henry's
death, that Mary thought it " meet rather
to be pulled down and sold by piece-meal,
than to be perfected at her charges ; " but
the Earl of Arundel, " for the love and
honour he bare to his old master, desired
to buy the same house by the grant of the
Queen, for which he gave fair lands unto
her Highness ; and having the same, did
not leave till he had fully finished it in
building, reparations, pavements, and gar
dens, in as ample and perfect sort, as by
the first intent and meaning of the said
King, his old master, the same should
have been performed ; and so it is now
evident to be beholden of all strangers
and others for the honour of this realme,
as a pearle thereof." -f Lord Arundel en
tertained Elizabeth several times at Non
such. At her first visit, Aug. 3, 1559, he
prepared for her great banquets, especially
on Sunday night, together with a masque
and all kinds of music till midnight. On
the Monday she saw a course from her
standing in the outer park ; at night a
play was acted by the boys of St. Paul's,
* Losely, MSS. , p. 144.
t MS. Life of Henry Earl of Arundel, quoted by
Lysons vol. 1, p. 112.

NONSUCH PALACE.

447

NONSUCH PALACE.

under the direction of Sebastian their
music-master ; and after that was a costly
banquet, with music and drums, the
dishes extraordinarily rich gilt, the enter
tainment lasting till 3 o'clock in the
morning. To crown all, the Earl pre
sented the Queen with a cupboard of
plate. Her stay lasted a week." From
Lord Arundel, Nonsuch passed to Lord
Lumley, who also entertained Elizabeth
on several occasions, and who eventually
sold the palace, and Little or Home Park,
to her Majesty. In her latter years,
Elizabeth spent a considerable part of
each summer at Nonsuch, " which of all
other places she likes best." f It was here
that the unfortunate Earl of Essex had
that remarkable interview with Elizabeth
after his return from Ireland, in Sept.
1699, of which Rowland Whyte gives so
quaint an account in a letter to Sir Robert
Sydney, dated "Nonsuch, Michaelmas
Day at Noone " : —
11 Upon Michaelmas Eve, ahout 10 a clock in the
morning, my Lord of Essex 'lighted at Court Gate
in post, and made all hast up to the Presence, and
so to the Privy Chamber, and stayed not till he
came to the Queen'B bed-chamber, where he found
the Queen all newly up, the hair about her face ;
he kneeled unto her, kissed her hands, and had
some private speech with her, which seemed to
give him great oontentment ; for coming from her
Majesty to go shift himself in his chamber, he was
very pleasant and thanked God, though he had
suffered much trouble and storms abroad, he found
a sweet calm at home. 'Tis much wondered at
here that he went so boldly to her Majesty's pre
sence, she not being ready, and he so full of dirt
and mire that his very f a«e was full of it. About
11 he was ready, and went up again to the Queen,
and conferred with her till half an hour after 12.
As yet all was well, and her usage very gracious
towards him." J
Later in the day the Queen's counte
nance darkened. At night, between 11 and
12, he was commanded " to keep his
chamber ; and on the following Monday
he was committed to the custody of the
Lord Keeper at Tork House."
James I. settled the palace and parks
on his queen, Anne of Denmark ; as did
Charles I. on Henrietta Maria. They were
of course seized by the Parliament. A
lease of the house was granted to Algernon
Sydney, the grounds being sold. Later
* Strype, Annals, vol. i., p. 274 ; Nichols, Pro
gresses of Queen Elizabeth, vol. 1, p. 74 ; Lysons ;
Brayley. t Rowland White to Sir Robert Sydney, Sept. 8,
1599 ; Sydney Papers, vol. ii., p. 120.
t Sydney Papers, vol. ii, p. 127.

the Little Park passed to General Lam
bert, the Great Park to Colonel Pride ;
but at the Restoration the grants were
resumed by the Crown, and the house re
stored to the Queen Dowager. In the
plague year of 1665, it was fitted up for
the offices of the Exchequer. Pepys was
down here (Sept. 29, 1665) about his
tallies, which, he says, " I found done, but
strung for sums not to my purpose. But,
Lord 1 what ado I had to persuade the
dull fellows to it." * In 1670 the palace
and park were granted by Charles II. in
trust for his mistress, the profligate
Duchess of Cleveland, who, as soon as she
came into possession, pulled down the
palace and sold the materials, and con
verted the park into farms. Her grand
son the Duke of Grafton alienated Non
such in 1730. Twenty years later it was
bought by Mr. S. Farmer, in whose family
it has since remained.
The writers (foreign as well as native)
who describe Nonsuch as they saw it in
the latter part of the 16th century, seem
at a loss for words strong enough to ex
press their sense of its magnificence.
Camden calls it " a monument of art,"
and Paul Hentzner, the German traveller,
writes, —
" Nonsuch, a royal retreat built by Henry VIII.
with an excess of magnificence and elegance even
to ostentation ; one would imagine everything that
architecture can perform to have been employed
in this one work : there are everywhere so many
statues that seem to breathe, so many miracles of
consummate art, so many casts that rival even the
perfection of Roman antiquity, that it may well
claim and justify its name of Nonesuch, being with
out an equal, . . . The palace itself is so en
compassed with parks full of deer, delicious gar
dens, groves ornamented with trellis work, cabinets
of verdure, and walks so embrowned by trees, that
it seems to be a place pitched upon by Pleasure
herself to dwell in along with Health." t
A more prosaic account, the ' Survey
made by order of the Parliament' in 1650,
affords, with Hofnagel's print, published
in 1582, a more definite idea of what was
one of the most curious examples of our
palatial architecture. It consists of
" A fair, strong, and large structure, or building
of free-stone, of two large storeys high, well wrought
and battled with stone .... standing round a
court of 150 foot long, and 132 foot broad, paved
with stone, commonly called the Outward Court :
a Gate-House leading into the Outward Court
* Pepys, Diary, vol. iii., p. 99.
t Hentzner, A Journey into England in the Year
1598, Walpole's translation.

NONSUCH PALACE.

448

NORTHAW.

aforesaid, being a building very strong and grace
ful, 3 storeys high, leaded over head, battled and
turretted in every of the 4 corners thereof : also of
another very fair and curious structure or build
ing of two storeys, the lower storey whereof is very
good and well wrought freestone, and the higher
of wood ; richly adorned and set forth and gar
nished with variety of statues, pictures, and other
autick forms, of excellent art and workmanship
and of no small cost : all which building, lying
almost upon a square, is covered with blue slate,
and incloseth one fair and large court 137 ft. broad
and 116 ft. long, all paved with freestone, com
monly called the Inner Court. Mem., That the
Inner Court standeth higher than the Outward
Court by an ascent of 8 steps, leading therefrom
through a gate-house of free-stone, 3 storeys high,
leaded and turretted in the four corners .... of
most excellent workmanship, and a very special
ornament to Nonsuch House. On the E. and W.
corners of the inner court building, are placed two
large and well-built turrets of 5 storeys, each of
them containing 5 rooms, the highest of which
rooms, together with the lanthorns of the same,
are covered with lead and battled round with
frames of wood covered with lead ; these turrets
command the prospect and view of both the parks
of Nonsuch, and most of the country round about,
and are the chief ornaments of Nonsuch House." *
The interior appears from the Survey
to have been of correspondent magnifi
cence, but it was the exterior which ex
cited such general admiration, and especi
ally the profusion of " statues, pictures
and other antick forms," which, as we see
from Hofnagel's print, covered the entire
wall space of the principal front. These
decorations are said to have been " done
with plaster work, made of rye-dough,
in imagery, very costly." f Evelyn visited
it four years before it fell into the hands
of the Duchess of Cleveland : —
" 1665-6, Jaai. 3. — I supp'd at Nonsuch House,
whither the office of the Exohequer was transferr'd
during the Plague, .... and took an exact view
of ye plaster statues and bass rilievos inserted
'twixt the timbers and punchions of the outside
walls of the Court, which must needs have been
the work of some celebrated Italian. I much ad
mired how they had lasted so well and entire since
the time of Henry VIII., exposed as they are to
the air ; and pity it is they are not taken out and
preserved in some dry place : a gallery would
become them. There are some mezzo-rilievos as
big as the life ; the story is of the Heathen Gods,
emblems, compartments &c." J
Pepys visited Nonsuch about the same
time, and was equally delighted with
the house, park, and " ruined garden."
Evelyn, we have seen, is content to express
his opinion that the external decoration
* ArchEeologia, voL v.
t Gough, Tonography, vol. ii., p. 275 ; Lysons,
vol. i. , p. 111.
t Evelyn, Diary.

" must needs have been the work of some
oelebrated Italian," without venturing to
name the artist ; but Pepys, with less
technical knowledge, and some confusion
in artistic chronology, says very decidedly,
" All the house on the outside filled with
figures of stories, and good painting of
Ruben's or Holben's doing." * Mr. J. G.
Nichols conjectures, with some pro
bability, that John Hethe, an English
man in the service of Henry, was " one of
those engaged at Nonsuch. ... By his
will dated 1st Aug., 1562^ he bequeathed
to his second son Laurence ' all my
moldes and molded worke that I served
the king withall.' " \
The present house, Nonsuch Park,
(Capt. W. R. G. Farmer) was built,
1802-6, from the designs of Sir Jeffry
Wyattville, and is a castellated structure
of the order of domestic Gothic rendered
familiar by that architect : it has, how
ever, been somewhat altered as well as
enlarged during the last few years. It
stands in a park of moderate size, re
claimed from the plough since the build
ing of the house. There is a public way
through it from Cheam to Ewell, along
an old avenue (entering by the projecting
lodge on the Epsom road J m. beyond
Cheam village — familiar to all who have
driven to the Derby). The palace stood at
some distance froin the present house, but
within the park, at the angle formed by
the avenue where a footpath branches off
towards Ewell : the ground-plan is said
to be still traceable. An elm, known as
Queen Elizabeth's, stands by the lodge on
the Ewell road, and there are some other
trees of unusual size in the grounds.
N0KBIT0N, Surrey (see Kings-
ton-upon-Thames).

NORBURY PARK,
Mickleham).

Surrey (see

NORTHAW, Herts, lies to the E.
of the Great North Road, 15 m. from
London, 4 m. N.E. of Barnet, and 2 m.
E. of the Potters Bar Stat, of the Grt. N.
Rly. Pop. 559.
Northaw (in old books and documents

* Diary, Sept. 21, 1665.
t Axchseol., vol. xxxix.

NORTHAW.

449

NORTH END.

frequently written Northall and Northalt)
was probably so named from its position,
= the north haw or holt, i.e., wood; Barnet
was sometimes called Southam. Northaw
stands on high ground outside and N. of
the N.W. boundary of Enfield Chase,
and Barnet occupies a corresponding site
on the S.W. Northaw was probably a
waste at the Conquest, as it is not men
tioned in the Dom. Survey. Then, or short
ly after, the wood or waste of Northaw
(Sylva et Nemus Northagre) belonged to
St. Albans Abbey, and the Abbot Paul
granted a lease of it for his life to Peter
de Valoines and his son Roger. The
Abbot died in 1093, and Valoines con
tinued in possession by consent; but
when, in 1162, the monks wished to re
sume possession, Robert de Valoines
refused to give it up, and appealed to the
King, Henry II., then in France. Henry
commanded the abbot to give Valoines
the wood, but he, taking counsel with his
monks, declined. Valoines made com
plaint to the Earl of Leicester, Lord
Ohief Justice, and a long irregular litiga
tion ensued. The Pope was appealed to,
and issued letters commanding Valoines
to make restitution within 30 days under
pain of excommunication. But the bishops
" feared to publish the excommunication,"
as being contrary to the King's prohibi
tion, and the Abbot despatched one of his
monks with a prayer for inquiry to the
King, who directed the Chief Justice to
hear and determine the cause. Valoines
failed to appear at the third summons,
and the Earl " seized the wood which he
had forfeited to the King for his con
tempt ; " and afterwards, Valoines not
answering to a forth summons, the Earl
"did adjudge the Wood of Northaw to the
Abbot by the Judgment of the Court, and
thereupon put him into possession by the
bough of a tree."* King John confirmed
the grant, and thenceforth the Abbots
remained in quiet enjoyment till the dis
solution of the monastery in 1539.
William Cavendish, Wolsey's gentle
man usher, and author of the Life of
the Cardinal, of whom we have read
under Hampton Court, obtained a grant
of Northaw in 1541 from Henry VIII.,
but alienated it early in the next reign to

* Chauncy, Hertfordshire, vol. ii., p. 384; New-
come, Hist, of the Abbey of St. Albans.

Sir Ambrose Dudley, afterwards Earl of
Warwick, who "raised here a stately
house from the ground, and contrived it
in very beautiful order, gracing it with
delightful gardens and walks, and sundry
other pleasant and necessary devices." *
The manor afterwards passed successively,
by descent or sale, to Lord Russell of
Thornaugh, Sidley, Leman, Strode, and
Trenchard. The Earl of Warwick's house
was taken down about 1775. The present
manor-house is Nyn Park, the fine seat of
Ashfordby Trenchard, Esq. Other good
seats are The Hook (N. Brindley Acworth,
Esq.), a noble old house in finely wooded
grounds S. of the vill. ; Northaw House
(C. W. Faber, Esq.); The Grove (F.
Lubbock, Esq.) ; and Springfield (Capt.
Le Blanc).
The vill. is a scattered collection of
good cottages, with several houses of a
better class, in the midst of a very
pleasant country. The ch. stands on one
side of a little green, and opposite to it,
under the shadow of a magnificent horse-
chesnut is the comfortable-looking village
inn, the Sun. The Church (St. Thomas
a Becket^-it belonged, it will be remem
bered, to an Abbey) was built in 1812, on
the site of the old ch., by W. Strode,
Esq., lord of the manor, and is Gothic of
the time ; covered with cement, cruci
form, and commonplace. The int. was
remodelled in 1868.
NORTH CRAY, Kent (see The
Crays). NORTH END, Fulham, Middx.,
an eccl. dist. of Fulham, extending along
the North End road for 1 \ m. N.W. from
Walham Green to the Hammersmith
Road: pop. 5250.
A century ago North End was in the
country ; and as late as 1813, if we may
trust the map prefixed to Faulkner's
Hist, of Fulham, it was still a rural dis
trict ; the long lane winding between
open fields, mostly market-gardens, with
at intervals large houses on either side,
but no signs of a village, and no church.
Now the houses are nearly continuous, in
some places clustered, mostly small and
poor, and the mansions nearly all gone.
New houses are fast rising, and some

Chauncy, vol. ii., p. 385.

29

NORTH END.

¦450

NORTHFLEET.

about the Edith Road and Villas are of a
better class than at the Walham Green
end of the lane.
In 1814 a plain chapel-of-ease was
built in the Hammersmith Road ; this is
now North End Church (St. Mary), North
End having been made an eccl. dist. in
1835. North End has had some noteworthy
inhabitants. A short distance down the
North End Road, on the 1. from the
Hammersmith Road (opposite the Grove),
is a large house, now divided, the nearer
half stuccoed, the farther red brick, which
was for many years the residence of
Samuel Richardson, and in which he
wrote ' Clarissa Harlowe ' and ' Sir Charles
Grandison,' and probably part at least of
' Pamela.' " He used to write in a little
summer-house or grotto, within his gar
den, at North End, before the family
were up, and when they met at breakfast
he communicated the progress of his
story, when every turn, and every inci
dent, was eagerly canvassed." * Many are
the references to his residence at North
End in his voluminous correspondence.
Richardson removed in 1755 to Parson's
Green, where he died in 1761. (See Par
son's Green.) Nearly opposite, (where
now stand the Grove Cottages) was a
large house occupied by W. Wynne
Ryland, the celebrated line engraver, who
was executed for forgery in 1783. It was
afterwards the residence of Dr. Crotch,
the eminent musical composer, organist
to Westminster Abbey, and principal of
the Royal Academy of Music. In the
lane opposite the Edith Road lived
Cipriani, the popular designer of the
middle of the last century ; while Barta-
lozzi, who engraved many of Cipriani's
designs, lived a little way on in the North
End Road. Here too, in Walnut Cottage,
pulled down in 1846, resided for some
time Edmund Kean, the great actor.
Normand House, half hidden by a high
wall, — it will be known by its range of
5 wide windows on the first floor, central
porch, and date 1664 over the gateway, —
is said to have served as a hospital during
the plague of 1665. Mr. Crofton Croker
says that " Sir E. Lytton-Bulwer resided
here," but we find no other authority for
* Mrs. Barbauld's Life of Samuel Richardson,
"prefixed to his Correspondence.

the statement ; it was used as a private
lunatic asylum in 1813, and it is so em
ployed now (1876). Otto House, which
we have just passed, is also a private
lunatic asylum. At the Hermitage, a
spacious house farther S. , standing within
a high wall, and overshadowed by tall
trees, Samuel Foote, the comedian, lived
for some years. Browne's House, nearer
Walham Green, was the seat cf Lord
Griffin and the Earl Tylney, and in
1718 became the property of Sir John
Stanley. In 1736 Mrs. Delaney writes to
Dr. Swift, " My employment this sum
mer has been making a grotto at North
End for my grandfather Sir John Stan
ley." It was afterwards purchased by
Sir Gilbert Heathcote, and was pulled
down on the death of the Dowager Lady
Heathcote. York Cottage was for many
years the residence of J. B. Pyne, the
landscape painter. North Fnd Lodge, by
Walham Green, was the residence of
Albert Smith, the popular entertainer,
who died there, May 1860. Jacob Tonson
lived at North End prior to removing te
Barn Elms.
NORTH END, HAMPSTEAD.
Middx. (see Hampstead).
NORTH MIMMS, Middx. (set
Mimms, North).
NORTH OCKENDON, Essex
(see Ockendon, North).
NORTHFLEET, Kent (Dom,
Norfluet), on the Thames, IJ m. W. of
Gravesend, and a Stat, on the S.E. Rly,
(Maidstone line), 21f m. from London.
Pop. of the par. 6515, but this includes
the eccl. districts of Perry Street and
Rosherville : Northfleet proper contained
4550 inhab. Inns : India Arms ; Plough ;
Ingress Arms.
The name appears to be derived from
its position on the fleot, or streamlet,
which, rising in the par. of Southfleet, 2 m.
inland, flows N., and after passing under
Stone Bridge enters the Thames on the
W. side of Northfleet. Here the channel
is now insignificant, the outfall being
regulated, and the ingress of the Thames
at high water prevented, by floodgates in

NORTHFLEET.

451

NORTHOLT.

the river wall ; but anciently the stream at
its mouth formed a large creek or bay — it
is still called Northfleet Creek — that in
which, according to some authorities, the
Danish fleet, or a part of it, lay during
the winter cf 1013.
Northfleet itself is not inviting to a
stranger. Its long mean river-side street
stretches along the Thames for IJ m. to
Rosherville, and the outskirts of Graves
end. The streets inland by the ch., and
what was once a gr.en, are little better ;
but the strange forms into which the
Chalk cliffs have been excavated — they
being carried back to the edge of the
highroad — and the way in which the
disused pits have become overgrown with
scrubby brushwood, and interspersed with
scattered cottages, give a singular and
occas onally picturesque character to the
scenery. One of the larger pits was many
years ago converted into a dockyard for
shipbuilding, and in it many of the fine
old East Indiamen. the pride of our mer
cantile marine, and also a goodly number
of men-of-war, including several of 74
guns, were built, between 1789 and 1825.
Afterwar Js it was employed for building
steamers — but the trade has departed from
Northfleet. The well-known Rosherville
Gardens occupy another of these disused
chalk-pits, the sides of which were in parts
150 ft high. Flints used to be largely
wrought here for gun-locks ; now at most
a few stray flakes and chippings are
appropriated by amateur antiquaries.
Chalk is still extensively quarried, a.id
there are large lime, whiting, and Port
land cement manufactories, sand and
ballast yards, and brick-works. The
lofty chimney (220 ft. high, and 22 ft.
diameter at the base,) that will be ob
served at one of these cement works,
occupies the site and exactly corresponds
in dimensions to one taat fell at the
moment of completion (Oct. 1873), and
caused serious loss of life.
The Church (St. Botolph) is of Norman
foundation, and some portions of the
original fabric remain. The nave and
aisles are, however, in the main Dec. ; the
chancel Perp. The nave was restored
and reseated in 1846; the chancel in
1863. The general appearance of the int.
is good. The E. window is a memorial to
the Prince Consort. The sedilia were
restored at the same time as the chancel.

Obs. the early Dec. rood-screen, with its
range of delicately cusped arches borne on
slender banded shafts; a work fuil of
excellent detail. The only mont. of note
is a tablet with long Latin insc. to Dr.
Edward Browne, d. 1710, President of
the College of Physicians, physician to
Charles II., whom he attended in his last
illness, and author of a once much-read
'Account of some Travels in Germany
and Hungary,' 1672, 1685, etc., the
eminent son of a more eminent father,
Sir Thomas Browne, the author of the
' Religio Medici,' and ' Vulgar Errors. ' Dr.
Edward Browne had a residence at
Northfleet, and he bequeathed the house
and estate equally between the College
of Physicians and St. Bartholomew's
Hospital. The brass in the chancel floor
is of Petrus de Lacy, rector, d. 1375, the
builder of the chancel : it is a fine brass,
but was unfortunately re-engraved when
relaid in the new pavement. Other
brasses are, of Wm. Lye, d. 1391 ; Sir
Wm. Rikhill (m armour), and wife ; and
Thos. Brato, d. 1511, and wife Jone. In
the ch.-yard obs. the pyramidal mausoleum
of John Huggins, Esq., of Sittingbourne,
with views of Huggins College on two of
the sides.
Huggins College, a spacious Gothic
building on an elevation near Stone
Bridge, comprises 40 comfortable resi
dences and a chapel, with a tall spire,
erected and endowed by Mr. John Hug
gins, in 1847, for persons reduced in
circumstances : there are now about 30
residents, who receive £1 a week each.
Northfleet Hytlie is a river-side hamlet
at the W. end of the par. The districts
of Perry Street and Rosherville are
noticed under those titles.
Northfleet chronicles are very barren.
When, as often happened, Graveseud boats
failed to reach that town before the tide
turned, passengers were glad to land at
Northiieet, wuich muijt thus have had
many remarkable visitors. Sometimes
these unintentional visitants were above
the passenger- boat class. On one occa
sion, Aug. 9, 1609, such a mischance
brought to Northfleet two Kings, a Queen
and a Prince — James I. of England and
his Queen, Christian IV. of Denmark, and
Prince Henry.
NORTHOLT, or NORTHALL,

NORWOOD.

452

NORWOOD.

Middx. (Dom. Northala), 3J m. N. of the
. Southall Stat, of the Grt. W. Rly., and
about 2 m. S.W. from Harrow : pop. 479.
Northolt is a quiet little country village
reached by very crooked lanes. Farming
is the chief occupation, the larger part of
the land being in grass ; but there are
brick-fields in which bricks of superior
quality, such as are used for the London
sewers, are made, and despatched by the
barge-load from a wharf on the Padding-
ton Canal on the E.side of the par. The
only object of interest is the Church
(St. Mary), whica stands on a hillock on
the E. side of a broad open green, which
is crossed by the main road. On the
opposite side of the green are half a dozen
cottages, and the Crown inn. A pretty
little ch. it is, with a few humble grave
stones dotting the sward on its S. side,
and somewhat more about the yew-
tree on the E. The ch. comprises a
nave and chancel, with a low wooden
belfry and short octagonal spire rising
from the W. end of the tall red-tiled roof.
The nave is Dec. , of flint and rubble, but
covered with cement and whitewashed;
the chancel Perp., rebuilt in part of bricks,
and a modern Dec. window inserted. The
int. is plain, the roof unceiled ; the E.
window filled with painted glass. Within
the chancel rails is the gravestone of Sam.
Lisle, Bp. of St. Asaph, d. 1749. Brasses:
Henry Rowdell, 1452 ; Susan, wife of John
Gyfforde, d. 1560 ; Isaiah Bures, vicar of
Northall, d. 1610. There is a good octa
gonal Perp. font. A pleasant field-path
leads direct from the ch.-yard to Green-
ford ch.
NORWOOD, Middx., 9 m. W. of
Hyde Park Corner, a precinctand chapelry
of Hayes, on the Grand Junction Canal,
f m. N. of Heston, and \\ m. S. from
Southall Stat, of the Grt. W. Rly. : pop.
4889, butin this were included 1908 per
sons in the Hanwell Lunatic Asylum, and
5 JO in the Marylebone Union Schools.
Norwood vill. lies a little to the W. of
0 terley Park, in a pleasant though flat
district. There are neat cottages, many
t -ees, the well-cared-for ch., and close
by it a large square mansion, Norwood
Lodge (W. Unwin, Esq.) Opposite the
parsonage, bordered by large elms, is a
smooth green, on which on a, summer
evening a Norwood eleven may be seen

vigorously engaged at cricket. Beyond are
farms, market-gardens, and orchards ; some
hands find employment at brick-making,
and there is a wharf on the canal.
The Church (dedication unknown) con
sists of a ¦ nave, N. aisle, and chaneelj
wooden turret and shingled spire, and an
old oak porch, restored and glazed. The
walls are E.E., with Dec. windows in
serted. The fabric was restored and en
larged in 1864, and the external walls
refaced with black flints, and a border
ing of red, black, and yellow moulded
bricks. At the same time the interior
was renovated and reseated, the new E.
window filled with painted glass, two
lancet windows opened in the nave,
and two in the chancel. Obs. the old
glass in the most easterly window of the
aisle, with figures of St. John the Baptist
and St. Mary ; and other fragments in the
W. window removed from the chancel.
Monts. — On N. of chancel, canopied altar-
tomb to Edw. Cheesman, Cofferer to
Henry VII., d. 1547. One with life-size
semi-recumbent marble statue of John
Merick, Esq., of Norcut, d. 1749; and
tablets to members of the families of
Awsiter, Child (of Osterley), Biscoe,
Wright, etc. Brasses. — S. of chancel,
small of Francis Awsiter, in a long robe
(d. 1624) ; in nave, to Matthew Huntley
(d. 161.8), in short cloak, collar and tassels.
The font, Dec, is large and good.
Besides the Lodge, there are Norwood
House (W. Rush, Esq.), The Cedars (W.
E. Berry, Esq.), Cambridge House (T. E.
Inwoods, Esq.), and other good seats.
North Hyde, by the Grand Junction
Canal, 1 m. W., and Southall (with
Southall Green), by the Rly. Stat., are
hamlets of Norwood. (See Southall.)
NORWOOD, Surrey, of old " a
village scattered round a large wild com
mon," and " a principal haunt of the
gipseys," now an extensive region of sub
urban villas ; and for " Norwood's oak-clad
hill," brick-clad may be substituted as the
more accurate reading. Norwood is not a
parish, but a district of considerably over
30,000 inhab., locally divided into Upper,
Lower, and SouthNorwood.extendingfromj;
Brixton, Dulwich, and Sydenham to Crojrl
don, and from Anerley to Mitcham, Tooting',"*
and Streatham , and lying partly in Croydon
par., and partly in the parishes of Batten

NORWOOD.

453

NORWOOD.

sea, Lambeth, Streatham, and Camberwell.
The Crystal Palace, though always de
scribed as in Sydenham, belongs to Nor
wood. In the 17th cent. Norwood was really
a wood. In his account of Croydon,
Aubrey writes (1673-92), " In this parish
lies the great wood, called Normiotl, be
longing to the see of Canterbury, wherein
was an ancient remarkable tree, called
Vicar's Oak, where four parishes meet in
a point." * Under this oak the church
wardens, etc., of tie several parishes used
to dine at their boundary perambulations.
Other trees were equally remarkable :
*' This wood wholly consists of oaks. There was
one oak which had uiisselto, atimber tree, which was
felled about 1078. Some person cut this misselto.
for some apothecaries in London, and sold them a
quantity for 10s each time, and left only one branch
remaining for more to sprout out. One fell lame
shortly after- ; soon afteT each of the others lost an
eye, and he that felled the tree (though warned of
these misfortunes of the other men) would, not
withstanding, adventure to do it, and shortly after
broke his leg - as if the Hamadryades had resolved
to take an ample revenge for the injury done to
that sacred and venerable oak." +
Norwood was at that time the head
quarters of the gipsey s who hovered round
London ; and hither the Londoners re
sorted in fair weather to benefit or
otherwise by their palmistry, as they
continued to do for more than a century
longer. "Aug. 11, 1688. — This afternoon my wife, and
Mercer, and Deb., went with Pelling to see tiie
gipsies at Lambeth, and have their fortunes told ;
but what they did, I did not enquire. " J
Long after the Hamadryades had de
parted, and the last oak and mistletoe
had disappeared, the gipseys lingered about
Norwood ; but instead of the wood their
haunt was the Gipsey Inn, its signpost
with the well-known effigy of " Margaret
Finch, the Gipsey Queen, aged 109," being
the trysting-place for London maid
servants out with their ' followers' for a
summer holiday. Now the Norwood gipsey
is a tradition — or a pretender.
Norwood is hilly, and for a region of
bricks and mortar, non-hypochondriacal :
physicians send their patients here, and
* ReaUy five, says Manning — those named above ;
Manning and Bray, History of Surrey, vol. ii.,
p. 536.
t Aubrey, Perambulation of Surrey, vol. ii.,
p. 33.
t Pepys, Diary, vol. iv., p. 496.

there are hydropathic and homoeopathic
establishments, capacious and comfortable
hotels, ' family ' or otherwise, endless
lodging-houses, and the Crystal Palace
for a summer and winter garden. Fur
ther. Norwood possesses 7 churches, 3 or
4 mission-houses, a full dozen dissenting
chapels, Roman Catholic institutions of
various kinds, schools beyond count and
of every grade and diversity, hospitals
and almshouses, Jewish as well as Christian,
for foreigners as well as natives, and for
the blind as well as those who have their
sight. Railway Stats. — Norwood Junction
(L., Br., and S. C. Rly. ; Lond., Croydon,
and Epsom, and Victoria and Epsom lines),
Gipsey Hill, and Lower Norwood of the
Crystal Palace and W. End line ; and the
Crystal Palace High-level Stat, of the
L. C. and D. Rly., — meet the requirements
of the several parts of the district.
The 7 churches are all modern — the oldest
Classic, the others Gothic of the fashion of
the year of erection. They are : St. Luke's,
Lower Norwood ; of brick and stone, with
a hexastyle Corinthian portico ; completed
in 1825 from the designs of Mr. F. Bed
ford. All Saints, Bculah Hill, South Nor
wood ; of stone, Perp. , with a lofty spire ;
erected in 1828 from the designs of Mr.
J. Savage. St. Mark's. Victoria Road,
South Norwood; E.E., erected in 1853.
St. Paul's, Hamlet Road, Upper Nor
wood, of coloured bricks and stone ; E.E.
(of a French type), erected in 1866 from
the designs of Mr. B. Keeling. Christ
Church, Gipsey Hill; late E.E. ; designed
by Mr. J. Giles ; completed in 1867. St.
John's, Grange Wood Road, Upper Nor
wood. Holy Trinity, South Norwood ;
E.E., of red brick, designed by Messrs.
Newman and Billing.
The North Surrey District Sclwol,
Anerley Road, is a very large and very
complete establishment, covering an area
of 50 acres, and providing accommodation
and the means of industrial training for
nearly 1000 children from the district
unions. Other industrial schools, paro
chial and denominational, do not call f or
particular attention. Noticeable for its
architectural as well as philanthropic
character is the Jems' Hospital, Lower
Norwood, a good Jacobean structure,
erected by Mr. Tillot in 1863 for the
maintenance of the aged poor, and the
industrial training of friendless children :

NORWOOD.

454

NUTFIELD.

there is also a Jc-tvish Convalescent Home.
An admirable institution is the Royal
Normal College and Academy of Music
for the Blind, Weston Street, Upper Nor
wood. The schools of the Westmoreland
Society for children of parents residing
within 75 miles of London are at Lower
Norwood. The Norwood South Metro
politan Cemetery, founded in 1836, one
of the earliest of the great metropolitan
cemeteries, occupies 40 acres of tbe north
ern slopes of a hill at Lower Norwood,
parts of which command good views
across Sydenham, Penge, and Beckenham.
The grounds are well laid out, but are
becoming crowded with monuments.
Many men of mark have their last resting-
place here.
Among the few houses of note at Nor
wood, Knight's Hill was perhaps the
most conspicuous. It was built by Henry
Holland, the architect of Carlton House
and Drury Lane Theatre (that burned in
1809), for Lord Chancellor Thurlow. The
house was much admired ; it afforded,
we are told, splendid views from the upper
storeys, and the grounds were extensive
and beautiful. But his lordship would
never occupy it, continuing to live in a
smaller house, Knight's Hill Farm, close
by. Here is the story as told by another
Lord Chancellor (Eldon): —
" Lord Thurlow built a house in the neighbour
hood of London. Now he was first cheated by
his architect, and then he cheated himself ; for the
bouse cost more than he expected, so he never
would go into it. Very foolish, but so it was. As
he was coming out of the Queen's Drawing Room,
a lady whom I knew very well stopped him and
asked him. When he was going into his new
house ? ' Madam,' said he ' the Queen has just
asked me that impudent question : and as I would
not tell her, I will not tell you.'"*
The report was that the house and
grounds cost £30,000. Both house and
grounds have disappeared, having, with
his lordship's adjoining manor of Leigham,
been appropriated by the speculative
builder. Another once noted place was the
Benlah Spa, Upper Norwood ; founded on
a handsome scale, about 1831, for render
ing available the medicinal properties of
a spring strongly impregnated with sul
phate of magnesia. There were grounds
of nearly 30 acres, pump and recreation
* Twins, Life of Lord Chancellor Eldon, vol. i.
p. 198.

rooms, and an hotel, all designed by Mr.
Decimus Burton, and provided with all
appliances for well-to-do water-drinkers
and valetudinarians ; but after a brief day
of prosperity, Beulah Spa collapsed, and
the site was handed over to the builder.
The grounds have, however, been par
tially preserved, and there is (or was
recently) a hydropathic establishment
where the curative qualities of the water
may be tested.
NUTFIELD, Surrey (Dom. Not-
felle), a vill. on the road from Reigate to
Bletcbingley, 2 m. E. of the Redhill Stat.
of the S.E., and L. Br. and S. C. Rlys.,
and 1 m. W. from Bletchingley : pop. 1224;
but of these 36 were in the eccl. dist.
of St. John Outwood, and 85 in the
Gladstone Philanthropic Farm-school and
cottages. Nutfield is a very pretty village, situ
ated on a ridge of the Lower Greensand
overlooking the Weald, whence there are
charming prospects, and that richness of
foliage and colour which is so character?
istic of the Lower Greensand formation.
" The little village of Nutfield has long been
celebrated for the Fuller's Earth which has for
centuries been dug up in its neighbourhood. . . .
The beds of fuller's earth are situated near the top.
of the lowest division of the Shanklin sand, and
occupy a line on the N. side of a ridge that extends
from the E. of Nutfield nearly to Redstone Hill,
on the W. of Copyhold Farm. About 2 m. W. of
Nutfield the earth was extracted from a stratum
6 or 7 ft. thick. In Bome of the pits there are two
varieties of fuller's earth, one of an ochreous yellow
colour, and the other of a slaty gray. The sulphate
of barytes is found in detached nodular masses from
a few ounces to 130 or 140 pounds weight . . . ;
Horizontal and vertical veins of fibrous gypsum,
about half an inch in thickness, are disseminated
through the fuller's earth." *
The district yielding the fuller's earth
is about 2 m. long from E. to W., and
J m. wide. Three pits are worked in
Nutfield, and a large quantity is annually
sent away. The grey (locally blue) earth
is used only by the manufacturers of fine
cloth, and chiefly sent to Yorkshire ; the
yellow variety is employed for every
fabric of coarse woollen goods, and very
widely distributed. The sandstone, both
above and below the fuller's earth bed, is
employed as a coarse building stone. In
the sandstone strata occur various organic
* Mantell, in Brayley's Hist, of Surrey, voL i.,
p. 145.

OCKENDON, NORTH.

455

OCKENDON, NORTH.

remains. Chajaoteristic fossils are a large
ammonite (A. Nutfieldiensis), and nauti
lus (N. undulatus). Firestone is also
quarried. The Church (St. Peter and St. Paul)
stands in a picturesque position N. of the
road. It comprises nave with N. aisle and
S. chapel, chancel, W. tower, with stair
turret, battlements, and short shingled
spire. There was a church here at the
Dom. Survey, and though no part of the
existing fabric is of that period, the nave
piers and long chancel are early Dec.
The tower, S. chapel, and windows of the
liave are Perp. ; the porch has a Dec.
bargeboard. In the E. wall of the chancel
is an ambrey. In the S. wall, under a
Dec. canopy, is a slate with a nearly
obliterated insc. to the memory of Sire
Thomas de Roldham. Another sepulchral
arch is in the S. wall of the chapel. There
are two small brasses, one of Wm. Graf
ton, rector, about 1460, the other of a
female. In the E. window are some frag
ments of old painted glass. There are
also remains of an oak screen. On leaving,

obs. a tablet on the external wall, by the
porch to Thomas Steer, d, 1769, sat. 76 :
" He Liv'd alone, He Lyes alone,
To Dust He's gone, Both Flesh and Bone."
Nutfield has the look of a well-cared-
for as well as pleasant village. The
school-house with its outside staircase and
open galleries, and many of the new cot
tages are unusually picturesque. Some
are half timber, others of the native
sandstone, and most well adapted to
their purpose and position. Nutfield
Priory is a large and costly mansion,
built in 1872 from the designs of Mr. J.
Gibson, for Joshua Fielden, Esq., M.P.
It is Domestic Gothic in style, with a tall
tower somewhat too much like that of
a ch. Other seats are : Nutfield Court
(C. H. Barclay, Esq.) ; Tower (J. Cawley,
Esq.) ; Hall Lands (Gurney Fox, Esq.) ;
Patteson Court (T. Nickalls, Esq. ) ; Ms-
tree (T. Woolloton, Esq.); Colmongers
(T. Welch, Esq. ) An urn containing 900
coins of the lower Empire, and other
Roman remains, have been found here.*

0

AKS, THE, Surrey
WOODMANSTERlfE).

OATLANDS, Surrey (see Wal-
ton-tjpqn-Th ames and Weybridge).
OCKENDON, NORTH, Essex
(Dom. Woclienduna), 5 m. N. of Grays
Stat, on the Southend Rly., on the road
to Brentwood : pop. 324.
" Okendon," as Morant writes, " other
wise in records Wokynden Septem Fon-
tium,, or Fontem, either from some owner
of that surname, or from seven fountains
or springs formerly famous here." * The
latter seems the more likely, but nothing
is now known of any such springs here.
'' A spring of excellent water in the church
yard, used however, as late as 1819, to
supply the village. In the reign of the
Confessor, North Ockendon belonged to
Harold. William I. gave it to the Abbot
of Westminster. In the reign of Edward
* Moraait, Essex, vol. i., p. 102.

II. it belonged to John MalegrefEe. In 1320
it was owned by Baldwin de Wokyndon,
and in the 2nd half of the 14th cent, it
passed by marriage to the family of Pointz.
By marriage also it went to John Maurice, or
Morice, of Chipping Ongar, whose eldest
son assumed the name of Pointz, and was
knighted in 1603. In 1643 a female heir
carried the manor to the family of Little
ton, descended from the author of the
famous work on Tenures. In the same
way it passed to a Rede, and afterwards
to Littleton Pointz Meynell. It is now
the property of Richard Benyon, Esq., late
M.P. for Berkshire.
Hardly a village, North Ockendon con
sists of a slip of green, with about it two
or three cottages, a general shop, a smithy,
and a little country inn, the Old White
Horse. A short distance W. of the vill.
are the ch., the pretty parsonage by it,
and, screened by a grove of elms, North
Ockendon Hall, a large, moated, brick

* Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iv., p.
Arch-jeol Journal, vol. vi., p. 288.

OCKENDON, NORTH.

456

OCKENDON, NORTH.

manor-house, the old seat of the Pointz
family, now a farm-house. W. of the Hall
a portion of the moat remains, and it may
be traced round the wall by the ch.-yard.
The Church (St. Mary Magdalen) is
interesting in itself, and for the Pointz
memorials. It is of flint and stone, com
prises nave and N. aisle, with the Pointz
chapel at the E. end, chancel, a square
embattled tower, the W. front covered
with ivy, and modern flint and stone
porch on the S. The ch. ranges in date
from the Norm, to the Perp. period, but
it was thoroughly restored in 1859 at the
cost of Mr. Benyon, when much of it was
rebuilt, some new windows inserted, and
the mouldings and tracery rechiselled.
The tower, a good Perp. work, was left
intact ; in it is a peal of 5 bells. The en
trance arch under the S. porch is Norm.,
with billet and chevron moulding (recut).
The nave, aisle, and chapel are Perp., the
chancel Dec. (observe the somewhat un
usual tracery of the E. window). The int.
is of more than average excellence, and
has been restored in good taste. There is
a good chancel arch, and the original open
timber roofs of the nave and aisle have
been preserved. Some of the windows
have modern painted glass, with which
may be compared a figure of the Madonna
under a tall canopy, of late 15th or early
16th cent, work, in a window of the Pointz
chapel. In this chapel will be found the most
interesting of the Monts. The most cu
rious, and well deserving notice, is a series
of memorials of successive heads of the
Pointz family — in appearance monts., but
evidently memorials erected by the same
person, and for the most part therefore
long after the deaths of the individuals
recorded. The series consists of 8 small
mural tablets to Pointz Fitz Pointz, son of
Nicholas Pointz, who lived in the reign of
Edward III. ; John Points, t. Henry IV. ;
John Pointz, t. Henry VI.; William Pointz,
t. Henry VII.; John Pointz, t. Edward
VI. ; Thomas Pointz, died 1662 ; Thomas
Pointz, d. 1597 (this for some reason is
placed out of its order, on the N. wall) ;
Gabriel Pointz, d. 1606. All the tablets
are of the same size, and similar in cha
racter and lettering. In each a knight
and lady are represented kneeling on the
opposite sides of a lectern. All have a
close resemblance, and were executed pro

bably soon after the decease of Gabriel
Pointz, the last of the series : definite
dates, it will be observed, commence with
the fifth in order, Thomas Pointz, 1662,
whilst the first was two centuries earlier.
Of the John Pointz of the reigns of Henry
VIII. and Edward VI.— the 4th in the
list, who died in 1558 — there is a fine
portrait among the Holbein drawings at
Windsor Castle, a clean-shaven f-face,
looking up, not recognizable, if our me
mory served, in the Ockenden head, which
is clearly imaginary. The figures, of ala
baster, are in good preservation, but the •
hands have been mischievously broken off
all of them. A costly tomb has life-sized
recumbent effigies of Sir Gabriel Pointz
(d. 1607), in full armour, and wife in ruff
and robes, under a flat canopy, coloured,
and diapered with stars, above coats of
arms. On the N. wall, large mural mont.
with half-sized kneeling effigy of John
Maurice Pointz, of Chipping Ongar, d.
1618, 4 sons and 3 daughters. Another,
with kneeling effigies of Sir James Pointz
and wife. Large marble mont., with bust
and weeping cherubs, to Sir Thomas
Pointz, Speaker of the House of Com
mons, d. 1709. Brasses. — At W. end of
chapel, Wm. Pointz, d. 1502, in full ar
mour, large 2-handed sword at side, feet
on dog ; wife in long robe ; 6 sons and 6
daughters. E. end of chapel, John Pointz;
d. 1547. The other monts. in the ch. in
clude one to John Russell of Stubbers (d.
1825), with a good bust by Behnes; and
one with medallion of his widow, Eliza
Russell (d. 1830). In the rectory is a
brass of about 1530, with insc, mutilated,
of Thomasyn, wife of Robert Latham,
gent., and then of Wm. Ardell, gent.
North Ockendon was the rectory (held by
him with the living of Duffield in Derby
shire) of Vicissitude Gifford (the Rev.
Richard Gifford, d. 1807), author of some
theological tractates and various small
poems, from a verse in one of which,
that clung to the memory of Johnson, and
being quoted by him to Boswell in the
' Hebrides ' attained sudden popularity,
Gifford acquired his sobriquet :
'' Verse sweetens toil, however rude the sound.
All at her work the village maiden sings,
Nor, while she turns the giddy wheel around,
Revolves the sad vicissitude of things."
Stubbers, anciently the property of the
Coys, a family of Welsh origin, but long

OCKENDON, SOUTH.

457

OCKENDON, SOUTH.

the seat of the Russells, and now of C.
Bramfell Russell, Esq., stands in the midst
of a small but beautiful park, about 1 m.
W. of North Ockendon Church.
OCKENDON, SOUTH, Essex, a
roadside vill., 1 m. S. of North Ockendon,
and about 4 m. N. of the Grays Stat, of
the Southend Rly. ; pop. 1243. Inns :
Plough; Sed Lion.
South Ockendon is much larger than
the sister vill., stretches for some distance
along the highroad, and has the look of
an active and growing place. There is a
pleasant and prettily varied walk to it
wholly through the fields from Grays by
way of Stifford ; but it is easy to lose the
path. South Ockendon Church, though
its old charm has been destroyed by resto
ration, is worth visiting. At South Ocken
don Hall, now a farm-house, J m. N.E. of
the ch., at the Mill, S. of it, at Great
Mounds, J m. S. of the Mill, and again
at Little Mounds and the Grange, still
farther S., are ancient mounds upon which
the archaeological visitor may exercise his
ingenuity. In the reign of the Confessor, Wocha-
dune (as the Norman scribe spells it)
belonged to Friebert a. Thane, but after
the Conquest it was transferred to a
Norman noble, Geoffrey de Magnaville,
Earl of Essex. In the reign of Stephen it
appears to have passed to William D'Ou,
probably by marriage. To the D'Ous
succeeded the Rokeles, in whom it re
mained till conveyed by Isola, daughter
of Philip de la Rokele, to her husband Sir
William de Bruyn, knight of the bed
chamber to Edward I., as Isola was lady
of the bedchamber to Queen Eleanor. The
manor remained in this family till the 16th
cent., when it was divided into two
manors, Bruyns and Groves, one going
to each of the daughters of Sir Henry
Bruyn. Elizabeth, the wife of Sir Thomas
Tyrell, inherited Bruyns. She had for her
third husband Sir Wm. Brandon, standard-
bearer to Henry VII. at Bosworth, where
he fell by the hand of Richard III. Their
son, Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, is
said to have been born at South Ocken
don. The Tyrells held the manor for a
long period, when it was alienated to Wm.
Petre of Stanford Rivers. To him suc
ceeded Jasper Kingsman of Homdon-on-
the-Hill, the Cliffes, and R. Benyon, Esq.,

the present owner. Groves, the other
moiety, was conveyed by Alice Bruyn to
Robert Harleston, her first husband (for
like her sister she had three), and the manor
remained in the Harleston family till the
16th century, when it went to a Saltonstall,
afterwards to Goodere and to Stewart, and
is now reunited with Bruyns in the hands
of R. Benyon, Esq.
The Church (St. Nicholas), which is
approached from the Green by an avenue
of limes, is in part Norm., and noteworthy.
It is one of the seven Essex churches which
have round towers, " after the Danish
fashion," writes Morant, " and embattled."*
The ch. was elaborately restored (almost
rebuilt) in 1866, when the tower was
carried up much higher, and Norm, win
dows inserted in the upper storey, with
out improvement to its picturesqueness,
proportions, or propriety. Before the
alterations, the ch. consisted of a nave, N.
aisle, chancel, and large N. chapel, the
round tower at the W. end, and a S.
porch. A S. aisle and vestry were then
added, the tower raised, the chancel re
built, the walls uniformly refaced with
black flints, and the whole renovated. The
N. doorway, under an open wooden porch,
though small (8 ft. 2 in. by 4 ft. 2 in.) is a
remarkably fine late Norm. work. It has
a semicircular arch with 4 richly carved
receding reveals, 3 of them with varied
chevron mouldings, the uppermost with
the billet moulding. The outer shafts
have foliated capitals, the next, very
slender and banded, have spirals with the
dog-tooth ornament, and alternate beads
and flowers. This doorway has been care
fully repaired, and the decayed parts
stopped with a dark cement, but very
little, and cautiously, rechiselled. The
bands and lower part of the E. shaft are
however new.
The int. presents a new aspect, but not
more so, perhaps, than was inevitable.
The roofs, of plain wood, and ceiled, are in
effect new, and the whole has been re
seated. The reredos was added in 1874.f
Monts. — -In the N. chapel is an elaborate
mural mont. of coloured marbles to Sir
Richard Saltonstall, Knt., and Lord Mayor,
* Morant, Hist, of Essex, 1768, vol. i., p. 101.
t There is a good architectural description of the
ch., of course prior to the restoration, in Buckler's
' Twenty- two of the Churches of Essex,' 1856, p. 32,
etc.

ONGAR.

458

ONGAR.

d. 1601, with kneeling effigies in recesses,
under canopies, of Sir Richard in plate
armour, with his scarlet Lord Mayor's
robe over it, and his wife in rich coloured
dress with falling sleeves. Below are
small kneeling effigies of 7 sons (one with
a skull below) and 9 daughters. Above
are his arms, fully emblazoned. There
are other memorials of Saltonstalls, Kings-
mans, Dry woods, etc. Brasses. — In chapel
(removed from the chancel at the restora
tion of the ch.), a very choice one, with
life-sized headless effigy, under a canopy,
of Sir Ingelram Bruyn, "Lord of the village
and patron of this ch.," d. 1400. He is in
full armour with long sword on rt., his
feet armed with long spurs resting on
a lion sejant : insc. on jupon across the
breast. Another is of Margaret, wife of
Edward Barker of Chesswycke, in Mydd.,
d. 1602, noteworthy for the elaborate
Elizabethan costume.

ONGAR, or CHIPPING ONGAR,
Essex, a small market town on the Dun-
mow road, 21 m. from London, and the
terminus of the Epping and Ongar br. of
the Grt. E. Rly. : pop. 946. Inn, The Lion,
a comfortable house.
In the Dom-boc the name is written
Angra; in other old records, Angre, An-
grea, Aungre, Ongre. The derivation is
doubtful. Chipping is the old English
term for a market, and is prefixed to dis
tinguish this from the neighbouring vil
lage of High Ongar. In some documents
the name has the addition ad Castrum,
from the castle which formerly stood
here. The manor was given by the Conqueror
to Eustace Earl of Boulogne, whose daugh
ter Maud conveyed it by marriage to
Stephen Earl of Blois, and afterwards
King of England. Henry II. granted it
to Richard de Lucy, Lord of Diss, who
built a castle here. From the De Lucys
it passed in succession to Richard de
Rivers, Sir John Sutton, and, in 1348, to
Ralph Lord Stafford, in whose descendants
it remained till it escheated to the Crown
on the attainder of Edward Earl Stafford
in 1521. Henry VIII. gave it in 1541 to
George Harper, who sold it in 1543 to
Wm. Maurice, or Morice. It next passed
by marriage to Sir Fulke Greville, and
then to the Whitmores, Goldburghs, Alex.

ahders, and Bennetts. The present lord
of the manor is Admiral Swinburne.
Ongar is a pretty little town. Its. single
street runs along a gentle declivity between
the Roding and its affluent the Cripsey
Brook, which, at the foot of the hill, is
crossed by a brick bridge of three arches.
Looking up the street from this bridge,
gardens and trees everywhere mingling
with the houses, shops, and inns, the taU
roofs and spire of the ch. crowning the
whole, the little town has an unusually
bright and pleasant aspect. Ascending
the street, it must be admitted the houses
look small, and for the most part modern
and bald, the market-house ugly, and the
streets dull — unless it be on Saturday,
when the market is held, or when the
" Ongar Volunteers " are parading the
town with their band. The trade is that
of the centre of an agricultural district.
Ongar Church (St. Martin) has nave
and chancel, and, rising from the W. end
of the roof, a wooden belfry and slender
spire. It is small, plain, the walls rough
cast; the chancel, which has 3 lancets,
E.E.; the nave Perp. Tbe int. is in good
order, having been partially restored in
1865. The main beams of the timber-roof
are exposed. Obs. large piscina on S. of
the altar, ambrey on N., and another
ambrey in the nave. There are numerous
monts. to the Alexanders, Bennetts, and
other local families ; one to Jane, daugh
ter of the Lord Oliver Cromwell of Finch'
ingbrook, Huntingdonshire, Knt. of the
Bath, and wife of Tobias Pallavicine, d.
1637 ; and one to " that truly noble and
religious gentleman, Horatio Pallavicine,"
d. 1648. There is also a brass of a civilian,
without insc, of the early part of the 16th
cent. The Castle was built by Richard de
Lucy, in the reign of Henry IL, on an
artificial mound which, as Gough pointed
out, was probably of Roman construction.
Roman remains have been found here,
and Roman tiles are worked up in the
walls of the ch. (though now concealed
by rough-cast), showing the proximity
of a Roman station. Ongar Castle, having
become dilapidated, was taken down by
William Maurice, its owner, in the reign
of Elizabeth, and a handsome manor-
house built in its place. This only lasted
till 1744, when Mr. Alexander, the then
lord of the manor, removed it, and sub*

ONGAR, HIGH.

459

ORPINGTON.

stituted " an embattled summer-house."
This in its turn has disappeared, and now
no building crowns the hillock, but it is
thickly timbered, and is still encompassed
by the moat. There is a pleasant view
from the top of the mound. The castle
stood at the upper end of the town, a
little E. of the street. Castle House, a
picturesque, old-fashioned, many-gabled
dwelling in the castle grounds, with the
moat close to it, was the first residence in
the town of Isaac Taylor, sen., who came
to be widely known as Isaac Taylor of
Ongar. The Taylors lived three years
(1810 — 13) at the Castle House, and then
removed to the Peaked Farm — a mile
away in the meadows — a place now utterly
transformed, and despoiled of all its pic
turesque accompaniments. The story of
the Taylors of Ongar is told in the
' Family Pen ' of the Rev. Isaac Taylor—
the third of that name honourably dis
tinguished in our literature. The elder
Taylor, his wife, the authoress of many-
popular books for the young, and their
daughter Jane, perhaps better known as
a writer than either, were interred in the
little burial-ground of the Independent
Chapel at Ongar, of which Mr. Taylor
was for many years the minister : " but
their graves have been enclosed within
the enlarged buildings of the chapel : the
vestry floor covers them." *
From the N. end of Ongar — the stile is
opposite the Cock inn — there is a charm
ing field-path of about a mile (half a mile
pf it being along an avenue) to the unique
little wooden ch. of Greenstead. (See
Greenstead.) In the opposite direction
a pretty field-path of about a mile leads
to High Ongar. the subject of the next
article. ONGAR, HIGH, (sometimes
called Little or Old Ongar,) Essex,
stands on high ground, about IJ m. (by
road) N.E. of Chipping Ongar : pop. 1157.
Inn, Red Lion.
The par. is much larger than that of
Chipping Ongar ; its greatest extent from
Weald Bridge to Horton Heath is about
8 m. For an Essex par. it is unusually
varied, and affords much pleasant and
even picturesque scenery. It is divided
* Jos. Gilbert, Autob. and Memorials of Mrs,
Gilbert (Ann Taylor), vol. ii., p. 320.

into several manors, but their history is of
little interest. Ongar Park is a detached
portion of the par., cut off from the main
part by Greenstead and Bobbingworth.
The vill. is small, and not remarkable.
The little Church (St. Mary the Virgin)
is of considerable antiquity, but has been
covered with plaster and modernized.
Under the S. porch is a Norm, arch of
fair details. The chancel has 3 lancet
windows. The narve windows are Perp.
The tower at the S.W. was erected in
1858, and is of white brick and stone,
with lancet windows. The int. has a tall
arched roof. There is a brass, without
insc, of the beginning of the 17th cent.
Forrest Hill, formerly Folliot's or Foly-
at's, 1 m. N., a fine mansion in a small
but pretty park, is the seat of J. P. Newell,
Esq. Ashe Hall, or Nash Hall, i m. S.E.
of the ch. , the ancient seat of the Frenles
and Mildmays, is now a farm-house.
Chevers, 1 m. E. of the ch., a good house
on a hillside, was the manor-house of the
Chevres, Stalbrokes, Pawnes, etc. Astelyns,
by Bobbingworth, now a farm-house, was,
according to an old tradition, the place
where Thomas Duke of Norfolk concealed
himself when charged with treason for
abetting Mary Queen of Scots. The
estate was purchased by Harvey, the dis
coverer of the circulation of the blood,
and bequeathed by him to the College of
Physicians. Marden Ash House, the seat
of Edward Cunliffe, Esq., is in High Ongar
par., but situated a little S. of Chipping
Ongar. At Marden Ash resides Josiah
Gilbert, grandson of Isaac Taylor of On
gar, and himself the author of a well-
known work on the Dolomite Region, and
of Memorials of his mother, Mrs. Gilbert
(Ann Taylor).
ORPINGTON, Kent (Dom. Or-
¦pintun), \\ m. S. of St Mary Cray Stat.
of the L., C, and D. Rly., on the road to
Westerham : pop. 2371. Inns, Maxwell
Arms ; White Hart.
" Orpington," writes Philipott, "was in
the 20th year of William the Conqueror,
wrapped up in the ecclesiastical patri
mony, and belonged to the monks of
Christchurch." * They held it till taken
away by Henry VIII. Henry retained it
three years, and then granted it to Perci-
* Philipott, VU1. Cant., 1659, p. 258,

ORPINGTON.

460

OSTERLEY HOUSE.

vail Hart. Esq., of Lullingstone. Percivall
Hart built himself a noble mansion, in
which he entertained Queen Elizabeth for
three days, July 21—24, 1573.
" Bark Hart has obtained a place in the map of
Kent, and therefore shall not want one in this dis
course. It was built by Percivall Hart, Esq. . . .
but it was adorned with this name by Queen Eliza
beth, when she was magnificently entertained at
this place by the abovesaid gentleman. Upon her
reception she received her first caresses by anymph,
which personated the genius of the house ; then
the scene was shifted, and from several chambers
which, as they were contrived, represented a ship,
a sea conflict was offered up to the spectator's view,
which so much obliged the eyes of this princess
with the charms of delight, that, upon her depar
ture, she left upon this houBe (to perpetuate the
memory both of the author and artificer) the name
and appellation of Bark Hart." *
Bark Hart it remains to the present
day, and house and manor still belong to
a Hart — Sir William Hart Dyke, Bart.,
of Lullingstone. Bark Hart is the resi
dence of C. A. Dickinson, Esq. The manor
of Little Orpington belongs to J. G. Sta
pleton, Esq.
Crofton, a little secluded hamlet, IJ m.
W., was according to tradition a parish in
itself, with a goodly village, till destroyed
by fire, thus evincing to us, as old Phili
pott moralizes, " that towns and villages
have their stated period of duration, and
must at length find a grave like men."
Crofton Court is the seat of Alfred Ayl-
wood, Esq. Another and certainly base
less tradition is that Tubbingden, towards
Farnborough,was the birthplace of Thomas
a Becket. Orpington is a good specimen of a
Kent village. It stands in the midst of
pleasant scenery, the cottages are clean
and comfortable, some old half-timber of
the true Kent type, with the date 1633,
and with them are new ones, good shops,
and houses of a more expensive kind,
large schools and the like, showing that
the place is not merely a relic of the past,
but making progress. The N. end of
Orpington forms Smith Cray, and derives
benefit from the mills, etc., at St. Mary
Cray, but Orpington is in the main agri
cultural. Hops and fruit are the specialty,
both of which are largely grown. The
river Cray has its source in several springs
at Orpington, and forms a respectable
stream before it enters St. Mary Cray.
The Church (All Saints) is in the main
* Philipott, Vill. Cant., 1659, p. 269.

a building of the early part of the 13th
cent. It is of whole flints and stone, and
comprises nave, chancel, and N. chapel,
and by it a large low square battlemented
tower, and a porch of flint and stone on
the W. The entrance doorway under
this porch has the dog-tooth moulding,
and transition Norman details may be
seen in the tower — which has, however,
been restored. The triple lancets of the
chancel are new. The int., restored in
1874, is very handsome. It is well pro
portioned, has a good open timber roof,
neat oak pulpit, lectern, and rood screen ;
the floor has low open seats; the E.
windows are divided by slender banded
shafts of Purbeck marble, and filled with
painted glass ; and a Caen stone reredos,
with a representation of the Last Supper,
has been erected. S. of the altar are
sedilia and piscina ; N. an ambrey. Obs,
on rt. of the pulpit, the entrance to the
rood-loft staircase. The font has a large
E.E. octagonal basin : the central stone
shaft, and 4 smaller ones of coloured
marbles, are new. In the entrance porch
is a holy-water stoup. Obs. here on 1.
a damaged altar tomb with canopy. Ihe
chapel has a quadripartite vaulting-. In
the chancel is a brass to Thomas Wilkyson,
M.A., prebendary of St. Wulfram at Ripon,
and rector of Orpington, d. 1604 ; and one
in the chapel to another rector, d. 1522.
The ch. and ch.-yard are well kept and
picturesque. N. of ch. are two large yews.
OSTERLEY HOUSE, Heston,
Middx., is about 2 m. N.W. from Brent
ford, and 1 m. E, of Heston ch. The
manor of Osterlee belonged in the reign
of Edward I. to John de Osterlee. In
1443 it was held by John Somerseth,
Chancellor of the Exchequer to Henry
VI., who had founded a hospital and
chantry for the gild or fraternity of All
Holy Angels at Brentford End, of which
this manor, or a rent-charge on it, formed
part of the endowment. In 1508 Hugh
Denys, of Gi ay's Inn, bequeathed Osterley,
with other manors, to the Prior and Con
vent of Sheen, charged with payments
for building additional houses, and the
maintenance of 2 priests in the chapel,
and 7 poor men in the hospital of All
Angels. Twenty years later the manor
was conveyed, subject to the same pay
ments, to the Abbess and Convent of Syon

OSTERLEY HOUSE.

461

OSTERLEY HOUSE.

at Isleworth. At the Dissolution it was
granted by Henry VIII. to Henry Mar
quis of Exeter, upon whose attainder it
reverted to the Crown. Edward VI., in
the first year of his reign, gave it to the
Protector Somerset, on whose execution,
4 years later, it again reverted to the
Crown. In 1557 it was granted to
Augustine Thaier, and a few years after
became the property of the prince of
merchants. Sir Thomas Gresham.
Gresham having enclosed his park,
commenced the building of a magnificent
mansion, which he completed in 1577, and
next year Sir Thomas entertained and
lodged Queen EUzabeth at his new house
with a degree of splendour that was long
remembered. " Her Majesty found fault with the court of this
house as too great ; affirming that ' it would appear
more handsome, if divided with a wall in the
middle.' What doth Sir Thomas, but in the
night-time sends for workmen to London (money
commands all things), who so speedily and silently
apply their business, that the next morning dis
covered that court double, which the night had left
single before. It is questionable whether the
Queen next day was more conteuted with the con
formity to her fancy, or more pleased with the
surprise and sudden performance thereof ; whilst
her courtiers disported themselves with their
several expressions, some affirming it was no wonder
he could so soon change a building, who could
build a 'Change ; others (reflecting on some known
differences in this knight's family) affirmed that
1 any house is easier divided than united. ' " *
The splendour of Osterley suffered
eclipse on the death of its master. " No
sooner was he gone," writes his biographer,
"than this fine seat began to fall into
decay ;" f and Norden, writing whilst
Lady Gresham still occupied it, says :
" Osterley, or Oysterley. the house now of the
Ladie Gresham's, a faire and stately building of
bricke, erected by Sir Thomas Gresham 
standeth in a parke, by him also impaled, well-
wooded, and garnished with manie faire ponds,
which afforded not onely fish, and f owle, as swanes
and other water-fowle ; but also great use for
milles, as paper-milles, oyle-milles, and corne-
milles, all which are now decaied (a corne-mille
excepted). In the same parke was a very faire
heronrie, for the increase and preservation whereof

* Fuller, Worthies : Middlesex ; Mr. Greville,
when on a visit to Lord Jersey at Osterley, records,
Dec. 29, 1829, what would seem to be a tradition
of the house: "It was here that Sir Thomas
Gresham feasted Q. Elizabeth, and pulled down a
wall in the night which she had found fault with,
so that in the morning she found it was gone.'
Greville, Memoirs, vol. i., p. 261. But the account
given in the text is the contemporary story.
Ward, Life of Gresham, p. 17.

sundrie allurements were devised and setup, fallen
all to ruine." *
On Lady Gresham's death the manor
passed to Sii- Wm. Read, her son by her
first husband ; but the house became the
residence of Sir Edward Coke, then
Attorney-General, and afterwards Lord
Chief Justice, whose daughter Bridget
was baptized in the chapel Jan. 3, 1597.
George Earl of Desmond, and his Countess
— a great-granddaughter of Sir William
Read, and coheiress of his estates — lived
many years at Osterley; after Desmond
carried her off, sorely against her will,
from York House, and the protection of
the Duchess of York, " the first ever heard
of that ran away with his own wife." f
Sir William Waller, the Parliamentary
General, purchased Osterley in 1655, and
made it his residence till his death in
1668. It then became the property of
Sir Wm. Thompson, whose son sold it
in 1683 to Nicholas Barbon, M.D.,a noted
projector. Dr. Barbon soon afterwards
mortgaged it to Sir Francis Child, whose
son Francis purchased the fee-simple about
1713. The Childs were citizens of the first
rank and opulence, and Osterley was now
old and faded. Francis Child, the younger,
began to rebuild Gresham's house, and
Robert Child about 1770 employed Robert
Adam to complete it, and furnish it with
all possible magnificence. The wings of
the principal front were united by an Ionic
portico of 12 columns ; walls and ceilings
were painted and decorated by Antonio
Zucchi ; mosaics, marbles, and velvets
were imported from Italy ; the walls of
one room were hung with tapestry made
for it at Gobelin ; pictures by the Italian
and Flemish masters filled the great
gallery and drawing-room. A stone bridge
was carried over an artificial lake, and a
menagerie formed in the grounds.
" On Friday we went to see — oh, the palace of
palaces ! — and yet a palace sans crown, sans coronet,
but such expense ! such taste ! such profusion ! and
yet half an acre produces all the rents that furnish
such magnificence. It is a Jaghire got without a
crime. In short, a shop is the estate, and Osterley
Park is the spot. The old house I have often seen,
which was built by Sir Thomas Gresham ; but it is
so improved and enriched, that all tbe Percies and
Seymours of Syon must die of envy. There is a

* Norden, Spec. Brit. : Middx., p. 37.
t Garrard to Lord Wentworth. Jan. 11, 16355.
Strafford Letters, vol. i., p. 357.

OSTERLEY HOUSE.

462

OTFORD.

double portico that fills the space between the
towers of the front, and is as noble as the Propy-
leum of Athens. There is a hall, library, break
fast-room, eating-room, all chefs-d'osuvre of Adam,
a gallery one hundred and thirty feet long, and a
drawing-room worthy of Eve before the Fall. Mrs.
Child's dressing room is full of pictures, gold fili
gree, china and japan. So is all the house ; the
chairs are taken from antique lyres, and make
charming harmony ; there are Salvators, Gaspar
Poussins, and to a beautiful staircase, a ceiling by
Rubens. Not to mention a kitchen garden that
costs £1400 a-year, a menagerie full of birds that
come from a thousand islands, which Mr. Banks
has not yet discovered ; and then, in the drawing
room I mentioned, there are door-cases and a
crimson and gold frieze, that I believe were borrowed
from the Palace of the Sun ; and then the Park iB
— the ugliest spot of ground in the universe — and
bo I returned comforted to Strawberry. You shall
see these wonders the first time you come to
Twickenham." *
Osterley House is a stately red-brick
mansion, nearly square in plan (140 ft.
by 127) with turrets at the angles. The
raised Ionic portico is approached by a
flight of steps, and leads into an open
court. The interior is still splendid, and
contains some antique statuary and in
teresting pictures. The great hall, with
the fine staircase and ceiling, pamted by
Rubens with the Apotheosis of William
Prince of Orange, assassinated at Delft in
1684, is very striking. In the gallery and
drawing-room are portraits of George
Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham, by
Rubens ; Lord Strafford, in armour, Van-
dyck ; and Mr. and Mrs. Robert Child, by
Reynolds; historical and religious pictures
by Guido,Dominichino, and other eminent
masters, and some charming landscapes
by Claude Lorraine, Nicolas and Gaspar
Poussin, Salvator Rosa, Ruysdael, Ber-
ghem, etc. The library, decorated by
Zucchi, contains some choice illuminated
MSS., and Caxton's and other early
printed books.f A Catalogue of the
Library, by Dr. Morell, was printed in
1771. The Park, of about 350 acres,
though level, is far from deserving
Walpole's reproach, now that another
century has imparted a venerable anti
quity to the trees. The elms are particu
larly fine. The lake divides the park, and
pleasantly varies the scenery. A public
* Hor. Walpole to the Countess of Ossory, June
21, 1773 : Letters, vol. v., p. 474 ; and see Rev. Wm.
Mason, July 16, 1778 : Letters, vol. vii., p. 95.
t See Waagen, Galleries and Cabinets of Art in
Great Britain, vol. iv., p. 269.

road and path crosses the park from
Syon Hill to Norwood.
Osterley is the property of the Earl of
Jersey, to whose family it came by the
marriage of George, 5th Earl, with Sarah
Sophia, eldest daughter of John, 10th
Earl of Westmoreland, and granddaughter
and heiress of Robert Child, Esq. The
house is now the residence of the Dowager
Duchess of Cleveland.
OTFORD, Kent (Dom. Otefort),
3 m. N. of Sevenoaks, and 2 m. S. of the
Shoreham Stat, of the London, Chatham,
and Dover Rly. (Sevenoaks br.) : pop.
1126. Inn, The Woodman.
The vill. lies in a narrow valley cut
through the chalk hills by the river
Darent, and is pleasant-looking, in parts
picturesque, and easily reached from
Shoreham by a very agreeable walk past
Shoreham Place, and through corn-fields
and hop-gardens, leaving road and rly.,
the whole distance, on the 1. Otford was
the scene of a great battle in 774, when
Off a defeated the Men of Kent ; and again
in 1016, when Edmund Ironside overtook
and defeated the army of Canute. Act
cording to Hasted, " The fields here are
full of the remains of those slain in the
battles ; bones are continually discovered
in them, particularly when the new turn
pike road was made in 1767, many skele
tons were found in the chalk banks on
each side." Offa gave the manor of
Otford to the Abp. of Canterbury in 791,
and it was retained by his successors till
the reign of Henry VIII., when it was
alienated by Cranmer. From a very early
period the Archbishops of Canterbury had
a Palace here, surrounded by a double
park and extensive woods ; and here one
of their number, Abp. Winchelsea. died in
1313. Early in the 16th century, only
a few years before it was lost to the see,
the palace was rebuilt in a more sumptu
ous style by Abp. Warham, the wealthiest
of English prelates, at a cost of £33,000 ;
and on more than one occasion Warham
entertained the King, Henry VIII., in it.
Little is visible of its ancient splendour.
I he rums stand on one side of a farm-yard
W. of the ch., and consist of a roofless
tywer, and the cloistered side of the outer
court. They are of brick, sadly dilapi
dated, and very dirty. The only pictu
resque fragment is the tower, which is

OXTEAD.

463

OXTEAD.

covered with ivy, and in which remains
some of the stone-work of the doors and
windows : the cloisters serve as stables
and tool-houses.
A little farther (by the watercress beds)
is St. Thomas a Beckett's WeU, a spring
which tradition affirms issued forth on
a Becket striking his staff into the ground.
It is enclosed within a wall, forming
a chamber 15 ft. across, and 10 ft. deep,
and is said to have been used by the
saint as his bath. The water, which is
beautifully clear and cool, was once in
high repute for its curative qualities, and
is still resorted to medicinally. A hospital
for lepers existed at Otford in 1228.
The Church (St. Bartholomew) is Dec.
in style, but was in the main rebuilt, after
a fire, in 1637 ; was repaired and altered —
thoroughly ' restored ' — in 1863 ; and now
looks patchy. The body of the ch. is of
flint and stone ; the S. aisle and chancel
of Kentish rag; the lower part of the
massive tower is rough-cast, the upper
brick. The interior has been made more
uniform. The large Dec. E. window is
a recent insertion. The only mont. of
interest is one to Chas. Polhill, Esq., on
the N. wall of the chancel, which has
some local celebrity as being made of 7
different kinds of marble : it has well-
carved figures of angels (in white marble)
as supporters. S. of the ch. is a yew of
good size, and healthy. The neighbour
hood is very pretty : from the heights
there are wide prospects over afertile and
undulating country, and along the valley
are extensive hop-gardens.
OXTEAD, or OXTED, Surrey
(Dom. Acstede), 3£ m. N.E. from the
Godstone Stat, of the S.E. Rly., and 4J m.
S.E. from the Caterham Stat. ; pop. 1164 ;
stands in the midst of a beautiful and
varied district. The vill., Oxtead Street,
is a long irregular street, in which are a
large brew-house, three or four public-
houses (of which the best is the Bell)
some tolerable shops, and many poor and
dirty, cottages. Some good residences
have been built of late years about the
parish, and by the ch. is a fair example of
an old one.
The Church (of the Virgin Mary), * m.
N.E. of Oxtead Street, is mostly late
Dec; the tower is E.E. ; the large E.

window (French Dec. in style) is recent.
Observe the sundial by the porch (on
S.W.) re-erected in 1815. Inside are
several monts. to the Hoskins family,
but none of interest except a poor brass
to a child, of 1611. Far better is the brass
to John Ynge, rector, d. 1428. A mural
mont. on the N. wall has kneeling effigies
of John Aldersley, a prosperous and pro
lific " haberdasher and merchant-venturor
of London," d. 1616, his wife, and their
10 sons and 7 daughters.
Barrow Green, 1 m. W. of the ch., is so
called from a large ancient tumulus ; there
are others, not so large, in the neighbour
ing parish of Godstone. Hops are grown
about Oxtead and Tandridge.
Barrow Green House is the seat of C.
Hoskins Master, Esq., lord of the manor.
"-* Jeremy Bentham had a country residence called
Barrow Qreen House, whioh he occupied during
the summer season, renting it furnished of Mrs.
Koe [Roe], widow of Mr. Master, late owner of that
place, a life proprietrix. ... At Barrow Green,
James Mill and his children lived (about the years
1812-1813-1814) with Bentham, who kept house
for all, as he had done at other counfcry houses, and
did likewise afterwards, at Ford Abbey, near Chard.
Barrow Green House, some forty-five years after
wards, was rented and inhabited by Mr. Grote,
and therein he and Mrs. Grote received more than
one visit from John Stuart Mill, who took a lively
pleasure in retracing the scenes of his childhood,
and in recalling the personal recollections of Jeremy
Bentham conneoted with the spot. " *
Grote took a short lease of Barrow
Green House, Midsummer 1859, and lived
there till June 1863.
" A spacious and rural residence, with fifty acres
of grass land, offering" itself (near Godstone), we
entered upon the occupation of ' Barrow Green
House ' at the end of the London season of 1859,
which was passed in Saville Row. We received
therein many guests during the months that fol
lowed (G. C. Lewis among the number), and found
ourselves well satisfied with our new residence,
except that the winter of 1859-1860 proved ter
ribly severe, and that the old house was very
imperfectly provided with the means of warding
off cold. The fire-grates would seem to have
been placed there under the ' Commonwealth ' or
coeval with the chimneys. One of them, in fact,
bore the date of 1649, and its capacity of affording
warmth corresponded with its age." t
Other seats are Perry field (C. M'Niven,
Esq.) ; Shrubhurst (Colonel C. Sedley
Burdett); Stone Hall (G. Barker, Esq.);
Broadhams (E. Kelsey, Esq.)

* Mrs. Grote's Personal Life of George Grote, note
top. 24.
+ Ibid., p. 246.

PANSHANGER.

464

PANSHANGER.

PAIN'S HILL, Surrey (see Cob
ham).
PALMER'S GREEN, Middx. (see
SOUTHGATE). PANSHANGER,HERTs,the seat of
Earl Cowper, is in Hertingfordbury par.,
about 2J- m. W. of Hertford. Cole Green,
on the St. Albans and Hatfield br. of the
Grt. N. Rly., is the nearest rly. stat., about
1^ m. by a charming walk through Pans-
hanger Park ; but the distance is very
little farther from the Hertingfordbiiry
Stat., and the walk is equally beautiful
through the other side of the park, by a
path nearly parallel to the Maran, here a
very pretty stream.
The manor of Blakemere, or, as Chauncy
writes it, Blakesware, was bought by the
first Lord Cowper — the Lord Chancellor
Cowper of the reign of Anne and the early
years of George I. — of a merchant of
London named Elwes ; and in 1720 he
added largely to the property by the
purchase of an estate at Hertingfordbury
of a Mrs. Culling. Blakesmere belonged
in the reign of Henry VIII. to the family
of the Hangers, whence the name Pans-
hanger appears to be derived. The Chan
cellor built himself a house at Colne (now
Cole) Green, in which he died, Oct. 10,
1723. This continued to be the family
seat till 1801, when it was taken down by
the 5th Earl Cowper, and the present
house erected on higher ground, about
1 m. N., which had been purchased of
Lady Hughes.
Panshanger has been altered, enlarged,
and modernized, but remains essentially
a stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic
mansion of the Walpole- Wyatt type, most
unsatisfactory when examined closely, but
grandiose and picturesque when looked at
in connection with its surroundings. The
Drawing-room, or Picture Gallery, as it is
sometimes called, in which the more im
portant of the paintings are hung, is a
noble and richly furnished room, lighted
by three lanterns and a large bay window,
from which you have a splendid view over
the terrace, gardens, and park. Other
rooms contain good pictures ; but the
visitor who obtains permission to view the
paintings will do well to devote his atten
tion chiefly to this.

The Italian pictures, which constitute
the glory of Panshanger, were chiefly
collected by George Nassau, 3rd Earl
Cowper, who went to Florence a young
man in 1762, married and settled there,
was created a Count of the Holy Empire,
and there spent most of his remaining
years. A collection formed under such
circumstances was likely to be excep
tionally rich, as this is, in pictures of the
Florentine school. The following are
some of the more important examples : —
Portrait of a Man, with landscape back
ground, admirably painted, and exquisite
in feeling, Perugino ; Waagen says by
Francia ; * but the ascription is probably
correct. Madonna and Child, Raphael;
an early work, much in the manner of
Perugino, but very tender and graceful ;
and the grave, dreamy expression of the
Mother looking out of the picture imparts
an elevation of tone sometimes absent in
Raphael's later representations of this
theme. Finer, however; larger in style,
and more mature in thought, is a later
Madonna by the great master (it is dated
1508), in which the Mother bends forward
in rapt contemplation of the Child, seated
on her knee. The face of the Child is not
satisfactory, but that of the Virgin gains
on you the more it is studied, as indeed
does the painting as a whole. By it is a
picture that does not suffer even by
comparison with Raphael's masterly
work, the Holy Family, by Fra Barto-
Ummeo (Baccio della Porta). The Virgin
is seated in the centre of the picture,
under the shade of a palm-tree ; by her
side is St. Joseph ; the infant Saviour on
her lap has just given a cross to the
young St. John, who is standing by, and
who presses it to his breast with a
saddened forecasting of the future. ThiB
is evidently the key-note of the picture ;
and the still, subdued attitude and ex
pressions of the personages, the sombre
richness of the colour in sky and land
scape, as in the group itself, — all serve
to deepen the still, religious pathos of the
scene. It is undoubtedly the finest work
by Bartolommeo in this country, and
among the finest extant. It is about 5 ft.
by 4 ft., and in one or two places a little
injured by the restorer. Virgin Enthroned,

345

Art Treasures in Great Britain, vol. iv., p.

PANSHANGER.

465

PANSHANGER.

P. Veronese, an altar-piece, with saints
and emblems and much ecclesiastical
paraphernalia ; very ably painted. A
companion piece, the Prodigal's Return,
by Guercino, is also good in its way.
Ecce Homo, Co-rreggio, unfinished, but
fine in colour and powerful in conception.
By Correggio also is a Virgin and Child
that may be usefully compared with
Raphael's Madonna. Children, Titian,
of more than doubtful genuineness ; as is
also the Pieta, ascribed to Michael Angelo, '
and which Waagen transfers (without
much reason perhaps) to Daniel da Vol-
terra. The Nativity, Carlo Dolce, full of
refinement. Sibyl, Guido, freely and well
painted. Portrait of himself, A. del Sarto.
Standing behind a table at which he has
been writing, the painter looks with a
frank, manly, unembarrassed gaze at bis
visitor. A capital portrait. So, too, is
that of a lady with a music-book in her
hand. Two legends of Saints, by del Sarto,
are obscure to the uninitiated, and not of
much artistic value. His other picture,
a predella of Joseph making himself
known to his brethren, is of a better
order. By Moroni there is a good and
characteristic head of a man. A Moun
tainous Coast, with fishermen, Salvator
Rosa, somewhat injured by the cleaner,
but a capital work ; the best landscape in
the collection. Also by Salvator are another
larger and two smaller landscapes, but
they are of inferior value.
Of the pictures other than Italian, and
chiefly portraits, one of the most re
markable is an equestrian portrait of
Marshal Turenne, by Rembrandt, on a
canvas 9£ ft. by 6 ft., and affording the
painter full scope for his vigorous pencil
and wondrous combination of light and
shade. It appears to be the only life-
sized equestrian portrait Rembrandt
painted, and the painter can hardly be
congratulated on his horsemanship. By
Velasquez, there is a clever head of a Boy
with a Dog. By N. Poussin, is a manly,
unaffected head of Du Quesnoy (II Fiam-
mingo) the sculptor, best known by bis
carvings on ivory of children. Villiers
Duke of Buckingham is one of Janscn's
coarse, unflattering, suggestive full-lengths,
which the historical student finds so in
teresting. Lord Bacon, a half-length by
Van Somer, is a repetition of a familiar
picture. John Duke of Nassau with his

Family, is one of those lordly groups which
nobody ever painted like Vandyck; and
this is one of his best : it was painted in
1634, — before, therefore, he was rendered
careless by the full tide of London pros
perity. The portrait by him of Percy
Earl of Northumberland is a duplicate
of that at Cassiobury. By Sir Peter
Lely there are two or three uninteresting
portraits. Sir Godfrey Kneller has a
good half-length of the first Earl, Lord
Chancellor Cowper ; of whom, however,
there is a more characteristic whole-
length, in his Chancellor's robes, with
the great seal by bis side, a stately work,
by the elder Richardson, — of whose care
ful though somewhat dull pencil there
are other specimens here.
The Cowper portraits are of course
numerous, and to one versed in the f amily
annals would no doubt all be interesting.
One group, as an example of the Con
versation Pieces that Hogarth often
essayed, and Zoffany rendered so popular,
and as a representation of the Florentine
Earl, the collector of the Panshanger
pictures, is worth noting : George Nassau,
3rd Earl Cowper, and his family are
represented as a musical party of sii.
the Countess at the harpsichord, my lord
playing the violoncello. There are also
portraits by Reynolds (one or two very
good ones), Hoppner, Northcote, Law
rence, etc. ; but these may be left now.
The park is very delightful, and there
are several open paths. It is of consider
able size, finely timbered, undulating, with
the pretty Maran winding through its
midst, and below the house expanding
into a lake. The ancestral trees of Pans
hanger are a delight to the eye and
the memory. Many are of large size, but
more of magnificent form. By the Cole
Green gate are several noble old oaks of
from 17 to 20 ft. in girth, and most pictu
resque. But the pride of the park is the
famous Panshanger Oak, which stands on
a bottom, or broad lawn, a little to the
W. of the house, and has been figured in
most of the published histories of English
trees from Strutt to Loudon. It was
known as the Great Oak when Arthur
Young wrote his ' View of the Agricul
ture of Hertfordshire,' and he says it
was so known in 1709. It was then esti
mated to contain 796 cubic feet of timber ;
in 1822 Strutt reckoned it to contain
30

PARK STREET.

466

PENGE.

1000 ft. He gave the thickness of the
trunk as 19 ft. at 3 ft. from the ground.
The trunk now measures 20 ft. 4 in. at
5 ft. from the ground. But it is not so
much its size as its perfect form and
symmetry that renders it so impressive.
It rises from the ground a clear stem
without a break for some 12 ft., then its
glorious branches spread out equally on
all sides, sweeping the ground at their
extremities and forming a circle 100 ft.
across, the main stem rising upwards
without a bend, "tall as the mast of some
great ammiral," and sending off at re
gular distances duly diminishing branches
till the whole is a majestic mound of
foliage. This magnificent tree is, however,
passing or past its prime. Each time we
nave seen it of late years we have ob
served more leafless spray at top, and
more broken and decaying wood in the
great branches below; but it is still a
wonderful tree, and worth a long journey
to see. Let us add that access to the
park, and, upon application, to the
grounds, is most liberally accorded ; and
that permission is very freely granted to
see the pictures whenever the rooms are
not actually occupied by the family.
PARK STREET, Herts, a
hamlet of St. Stephen's par., St. Albans,
from which town it is 2 m. S., and a stat.
on the St. Albans br. of the L. and N.W.
Rly. Park Street is a little rustic straw-
plaiting village on the London road,
where it is crossed by the Colne, with
trees on all sides, and pleasant lanes
leading away to pleasanter Brickett
Wood. Within a broad green enclosure
at the S. end of the vill., serving alike
for Park Street and Colney Street, stands
the modest district ch., a recent Norm.,
white brick, cruciform fabric, with an
apsidal chancel, and a bellcote on the
W. gable.
PARNDON, GREAT, Essex (anc.
Paringdon), about 2J m. S.E. from the
Roydon Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Cam
bridge line) ; — go to the end of Roydon
Street, and there inquire the way, by lane
and field paths : the road is much longer
and less pleasant. Pop. 491.
The village is secluded, stands on high
ground, and the scenery is more varied
than is common in this part of Essex.

The church (dedication unknown) stands
a little W. of the vill., by Hall Farm. It
is small, plain, covered with plaster, and
has a tall weather-beaten tower of flint
and stone on the W. ; is Perp. in style,
.and has been partially restored. The
interior is neat, has open seats, and a
timber roof, ceiled between the rafters.
S. of the altar is a piscina. There are no
monts. At Parndon Cross, a little S. ofthe
ch., is a decent country inn, the Cock, at
the parting of the roads, looking very snug
and picturesque under the shadow of two
immense elms. About the middle of the
12th cent. Roger de Paringdon founded a
Premonstratensian monastery here, but it
was removed in 1180 to Bileigh, near
Maldon. PARNDON, LITTLE, Essex, lies
N.E. of Great Parndon (the churches are
\\ m. apart), and £ m. W. of the Burnt
Mill Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. : pop. 117.
The par. is small, and there is no vill.
The Church (St. James) is an elegant
little early Dec. building of French type,
erected in 1868, chiefly at the cost of Mr.
L. W. Arkwright, in place of a rude and
dilapidated Dec. structure. It is of flint
and stone, has nave, apsidal chancel,
porch on the S.W., and a wooden belfry
rising from the W. end of the roof. The
interior is prettily finished. The scenery,
though flat, is pleasant along the Stoat,
which here divides Essex from Herts ;
and the water-mills (Burnt Mill, Little
Parndon, and Hunsdon mills) break the
monotony. Parndon Hall, the seat of
L. W. Arkwright, Esq., lord of the
manor, is a spacious modern red-brick
and stone mansion. Gilston Park (J.
Hodgson, Esq.), on the high ground N,
of the Stoat, is in Hertfordshire.
PARSON'S GREEN, Middx. (see
Fulham). PENGE, Surrey, a detached
hamlet of Battersea, but for poor-law and
eccl. purposes a separate parish, lies be
tween Norwood and Beckenham, on the
N.W. border of Kent, and 7 m. from
London. Pop. 13,202 (Penge St. John,
8345 ; Upper Penge, 4857). Rly. Stats.
— On main line of L., Br., and S. C.
Rly., Penge Stat. ; Anerley Stat. Also

PERIVALE.

467

PERRY STREET.

on London Bridge and Victoria line. On
L, C, and D. Rly., at Penge Lane.
Fifty years ago Penge was only spoken
of as a common, and the maps show
hardly a house upon it By the Crooked
Billet, on the Beckenham road, there were
a few dwellings ; the Croydon Canal
(constructed 1801) with its step-like
locks, crossed the Common — then noted
for its oaks, — beyond was Penge Wood.
Slowly the houses increased in number,
till the old canal was bought and con
verted into a railway in 1839, and Penge
Common was fixed on as a convenient
stat. for Norwood and Beckenham. Then
" the plague of building lighted upon it ; "
spread more rapidly when Penge Place
was taken for the Crystal Palace, Penge
Wood was absorbed partly in the palace
grounds, and the rest, doubly attractive
from its proximity to that popular resort,
given over to the builder ; and culminated
when a Freehold Building Society bought
what had been spared of the Common for
distribution among its members. Now,
Penge is a, town in size and popula
tion, in appearance » waste of modern
tenements, mean, monotonous, and weari
some. It has 3 churches, many chapels,
schools, hotels, taverns, inns, ' offices ' of
all sorts, shops, 4 or 5 rly. stations, and
whatever may be looked for in a new
suburban rly. town.
The churches are — St. John the E vange-
list, Gothic of 1850, originally a chapel,
with aisles added in 1861, and transepts
in 1866 ; St. Paul's, Hamlet Road, a com
monplace Gothic ch., erected in 1867;
and Holy Trinity, South Penge, » some
what more ambitious parti-coloured brick
fabric erected in 1872.
The Watermen's and Lightermen's
Asylum, opposite St. John's ch., Dulwich
Road, a neat structure in good-sized
grounds, built and managed by the
Watermen's Company, consists of 40
comfortable residences and a lodge, for
the reception of decayed watermen and
lightermen. Close by it, in Penge Lane,
is King William IV.'s Naval Asylum,
erected from the designs of Philip Hard
wick, R.A., at the sole cost of Queen
Adelaide, for 12 widows of commanders
in the merchant service.
PERIVALE, Middx., anc. Green-
POED Parva, lies to the E. of Greenford

(Magna), on the rt. bank of the Brent,
2 m. N. by W. of the Ealing Stat, of the
Grt. W. Rly. and about 8 m. from Hyde
Park Corner.
Considering its nearness to London,
Perivale is a curiously lonely-looking
little place. It lies in the valley of the
Brent, among broad meadows, the 4
farms being all hay -farms, and no other
houses, not even a labourer's cottage, near.
In the entire par., of 624 acres, there were
in 1871 only 7 houses and 33 inhab. The
Church stands at the edge of a field,
alongside a low semi-Gothic half-timber
parsonage, a farm-house its only other
neighbour. The seclusion is delightful ;
and the green meadows, backed by the
hill and spire of Harrow, are pleasant to
look upon. The Church (dedication un
known) is very small, late Dec. or early
Perp., and consists of nave and narrow
chancel, rough-cast, wooden tower and
short pyramidal spire at the W., and porch
on the S.W. The interior is neat, nicely
kept, and in good order, having been
restored in 1875. In the windows is
some late 15th cent, glass — figures of St.
John the Baptist, St. Matthew, tolerably
perfect, and St. Mary and St. Joseph,
much less so. A low 17th cent, screen
divides the nave from the chancel ; and
on the S.W. is a small hagioscope. There
are monts. to Lanes, Harrisons, Mylletts,
and other local families. Before the
altar rails, on the chancel floor, is a brass
to Henry Myllet, d. 1600, his 2 wives and
15 children. Philip Fletcher, Dean of
Kildare, brother of Bp. Fletcher, and
author of ' Truth at Court,' a poem popu
lar in its day, and forgotten now, was
buried here, May 12, 1765.
From the ch. a walk of a short m. due
N. leads to Horsington Hill, whence there
are pleasant views — the best obtainable of
Harrow Hill, and a wider one over Harrow
Weald and Wembly — and Horsington
Wood, rich in spring flowers and shady
walks, but now enclosed. The City of
London District School (Cuckoo Farm) is
on the 1. of the lane to Greenford.
PERRY STREET, Kent, is a
hamlet and eccl. district of Northfleet,
from which vill. it is 1 m. S.E. ; pop. 1208.
Perry Street has grown into favour as a
place of residence, and many good mode
rate-sized houses have been erected. The

PETERSHAM.

468

PETERSHAM.

country is pleasant; the higher grounds
afford cheerful and varied prospects.
Farming and market gardening are the
chief occupations. In 1871 a pretty ritu
alistic E.E. church (All Saints), was
erected from the designs of Mr. J. Brooks.
It is of Kentish rag, and has a sanctus
bell in the bellcote over the chancel arch,
which can be rung from the steps of the
«hoir.
PERRY VALE, Kent (see Syden
ham). PETERSHAM, Surrey, a plea
sant village on the Thames between Rich
mond and Kingston, and about IJ m. S.
of the Richmond Rly. Stat. Pop. 683.
The manor at the Conquest belonged
to the Abbey of St. Peter, at Chertsey,
whence no doubt the place derived its
name (Patricesham in Dom.), and the ch.
its dedication. At the Dom. Survey there
was a ch. -at Petersham. On the land
were 15 villans and 4 bordarii. A fishery
was estimated at 1-000 eels and 1000 lam
preys — the only instance in the Survey
of the home counties in which lampreys
are specified. The Abbey retained the
manor till 1415, when it was conveyed to
the King, Henry V. It was settled by
Henry VIII., in 1541, en his divorced
wife, Anne of Cleves, who surrendered it,
with other estates, to the Crown in 1548.
James I. in 1610 granted the manors of
Petersham, Ham, and Sheen to his eldest
son Henry, Prince of Wales, on whose
decease, 1612, they were conveyed to
Prince Charles. A lease of Petersham had
been granted by James I. to George Cole,
whose mont. , with effigy, is in Petersham
ch. In 1637 a reversionary lease was
granted by Charles I. to William Murray,
afterwards Earl of Dysart. In 1672
Charles granted the lordship of Ham and
Petersham in fee-simple .to John Earl of
Lauderdale, (whom he created Baron Peter
sham and Earl of Guildford in England,
and Duke of Lauderdale in Scotland) and
to his wife, Elizabeth, Countess of Dysart,
and to her heirs by her first husband.
Petersham thus passed to the Tollemaches,
and is now the property of the Earl of
Dysart, whose fine seat, Ham House, is in
Petersham par. (See Ham ; HAM House.)
The barony of Petersham having become
extinct by the death, without heirs, of the

Duke of Lauderdale, the title was revived
in William Stanhope, who was created,
1742, Viscount Petersham and Earl of
Harrington. Though lying low, Petersham is very
pleasantly placed, having Ham Walks and
Ham House and grounds on one side,
Richmond and Richmond Park on the
other, the Thames in front, and Ham Com
mon in the rear. Petersham Church (Si,.
Peter) is of red brick, and was built, as
an entry in the register records, in 1505. It,
is small and low, and of unorthodox form,
the nave stretching N. and S., while the
chancel (a vestige apparently of the earlier
edifice, rough-cast, and having an old Deo.
window) projects eastward. On the W. is
a tower, small and low, with a cupola
turret. The int. is not attractive. Monts.—
N. of chancel, George Cole, Esq., of the
Middle Temple, d. 1624, with recumbent
effigy in black robe and ruff, parchment
roll inrt. hand, under an arch flanked by
Corinthian columns ; by him his wife
Frances, d. 1633. Tablet to Sir Thomas
Jenner, Baron of the Exchequer, and
Judge of the Common Pleas, d. 1707. On
W. wall, a tablet, erected in 1841 by the
Hudson's Bay Company to Capt. George
Vancouver, R.N., the distinguished cir
cumnavigator, who died at Petersham in
1798 and was buried in the ch.-yard.
The ch.-yard contains the remains of
many persons eminent in place or merit
A large and showy tomb records the inter
ment of Richard Earl of Mount-Edg-
cumbe, d. 1839. One by the chancel to
Vice- Admiral Sir George Scott, d.' 1841,
has inscribed on another side some much-
admired and often-quoted verses on Lady
Frances C. Douglas, daughter of the Mar
quis of Queensbury, who d. 1827, in her
15th year. Other oft-read verses are in
commemoration of Patty Bean, who d.
1785, aged 12. Very different is the
interest excited by the stone which marks
the grave of Horace Walpole's "Elder-
Berries," the Mary and Agnes Berry to
whom the world is indebted for his
Reminiscences, and a large part of his
later Correspondence. During the last
twenty years of their lives the sisters
spent the summer of each year in what
they called their "retirement at Peter
sham." Being at Paris in July 1836, Miss
Berry writes in her journal, —
" It is now that I figure Petersham and our quiet

PETERSHAM.

469

PETERSHAM.

garden there as everything on earth that I most
covet, and from which I no longer desire to wan
der. There in the immediate neighbourhood of a
friend [Lady Scottl more my ohild than any other
ever can he — there I feel that 1 can patiently wait
for the last stroke whioh is to send me to the
neighbouring country ohurch-yard, where I have
long intended to have my bones deposited." *
She did, however, wander a good deal
after this entry, and it was not till nearly
16 years had passed, and she was in her*
90th year, that her bones were deposited
in the ch.-yard, alongside those of the
sister who had been with her through their
long life, and in death was not separated.
Their grave is marked by a large plain
stone, under a lime-tree, by the path N.E.
of the ch. The insc. was written by the
Earl of Carlisle.
" Mary Berry, born March, 1763, d. Nov. 1852.
Agnes Berry, born May, 1784, d. Jan. 1852.
Beneath this stone are laid the remains of these
Two Sisters, amidst scenes which in life they had
frequented and loved. Followed by the tender
regret of those who close the unbroken succession
of Friends devoted to them with fond affection
during every step of their long career. "
Beside their's is another stone, in
scribed to one often mentioned in the
Journals and Correspondence — Isabella
Harrott, died Nov. 1854, aged 90, " For
nearly 60 years the faithful and devoted
housekeeper to the Misses Berry." On
the S. side of the ch.-yard is an unusually
elaborate and elegant low tomb, coffer-
shaped, with raised centre of red granite,
on a base of dull grey granite with polished
bosses and pattern, and surmounted with
an enriched cross, to Albert Henry Scott,
Student of Ch. Ch., Oxford, d. 1865, son
of Sir Gilbert G. Scott, R.A., then resident
at the Manor House. The celebrated
Countess of Dysart and Duchess of Lau
derdale was buried (as well as married)
in Petersham ch. , but the only record of
her is in the register. Charles Caleb
Colton, the author of ' Lacon,' held the
living of Petersham and Kew from 1817
till deprived for misconduct in 1828.
The principal seat, Ham House, is de
scribed under that title. Petersham Lodge
was purchased of Gregory Cole by Charles
I., at the time he enclosed the New Park,
Richmond. In 1682 James II. granted a
lease of it to his nephew, Hyde Lord Corn-
bury, grandson of Lord Chancellor Claren-
* Miss Berry's Journal and Correspondence, vol.
iii., p. 444.

don. From him it descended to Henry
Hyde, 2nd and last Earl of Rochester,
in whose possession it was when, Oct. 1,
1721, it was destroyed by a fire, which
destroyed also much rich old furniture,
many family pictures, and the Chancel
lor's priceless library. The second Peter
sham Lodge was built by Richard Boyle,
the architect Earl of Burlington, for*
William Stanhope, 1st Viscount Peter
sham and Earl of Harrington (d. 1766).
William Stanhope, the 3rd Earl, sold it
to Thomas Pitt, 1st Lord Camelford
(d. 1793), who in 1784 procured an
Act of Parliament for the purchase of
the fee-simple of the Crown, and in 1790
sold his right to the Duke of Clarence,.
afterwards William IV. The Duke made
it for a time his residence, and then parted
with it to William Tollemache, Lord
Huntingtower (d. 1833), whose executors
sold it for £14,000 to the Commissioners
of Woods and Forests, by whom it was
pulled down and annexed to Richmond
Park. The large cedars on the declivity
below Pembroke Lodge- by Petersham
Lane, mark the situation of the- last
Petersham Lodge. The grounds were
very beautiful and very famous :
" The pendent woods
That nodding hang o!er Harrington's retreat,"
commemorated in ' The Seasons,' are the
woods of Petersham Lodge.
Sudbrook is mentioned as a hamlet as
early as 1266, but it has for centuries been
reduced to a single house. Sudbrook, or
Sudbroke, House belonged to John Duke
of Argyll, the eminent statesman, who d.
there in 1743. From him it passed to his
eldest daughter, Lady Catherine Campbell,
created Baroness of Greenwich, on whose
decease at Sudbrook House, in 1794, it
passed to Henry, 3rd Duke of Buccleuch,
her son by her first marriage. Later it
was the property and residence of Sir
Robert Wilmot Horton, Under Secretary
for the Colonies, and afterwards Governor
of Ceylon, who made extensive alterations
in the house and grounds. It was after
wards purchased for the Crown, and the
grounds in part annexed to Richmond
Park. For several years past Sudbrook
Park, as it is now called, has been a
" hydropathic sanatorium." The house is
a large an,ioL-i^l,y eJ_M~c of L^..t>- .^.^'s,
with an elevated tetrastyle portico, ap
proached by a tall double flight of steps.

PINNER.

470

PINNER.

The grounds, though curtailed, are ex
tensive and beautiful.
Bute House, by the village, was the
seat of the Marquis of Bute, and after
wards of Lord Dudley-Coutts Stuart. It
is now a " gentleman's boarding-school."
The Manor House, formerly the residence
of Sir Gilbert Scott, R.A., is now the seat
of Tanfield G. Headley, Esq. Douglas
House (C. Home-Drummond-Moray, Esq.),
Montrose House (R. Fowler, Esq.), and
Petersliam House (S. Walker, Esq.), are
among the other seats.
PINNER, Middx., nearly 3 m.
N.W. of Harrow by road, but nearer by
the fields, and about 13 m. from London :
the Pinner Stat, of the L. and N.W. Rly.
is IJ m. N.E. of the vill. Pop. 2332, of
whom 248 were in the Commercial Travel
lers' Schools.
Pinner was formerly a hamlet and
chapelry of Harrow, and part of the same
demesne, but is now a separate parish.
Though only a hamlet, it had a market,
granted by Edward III. to the Abp. of
Canterbury in 1336. The market has
long been lost, but of the two annual fairs,
granted at the same time, one survives,
though shrunken to a small pleasure fair
of a single day, Whit- Wednesday. Pinner
stands on elevated ground, whence flows
one of the feeders of the Colne. The
main street is broad, clean, lined, among
many modern ones, with several old half-
timber houses, with overhanging upper
-floors and gables. On its N. side is a long,
low, old country inn, an excellent specimen
of its class, the Queen's Head, bearing on
its front the date 1705, and no doubt a
genuine relic of Queen Anne's reign. At
the upper (E.) end of the street, on the
highest ground, soars the weather-beaten
church tower, with the bare trunk of a
huge elm before it, fitting finish to a
scene unusually archaic, rustic, and pic
turesque for its nearness to London. A
charming etching of Pinner, looking to
wards the church, was made by George
Cooke in 1828, when it was even more
picturesque than now.
The Church (St. John the Baptist) was
built in 1321, but it includes parts of an
earlier building, and it has been at various
times added to, altered, and modernized.
It is of flint and stone, with patches of
rough-cast : cruciform, with an embattled

W. tower ; transepts small and low, and
tall tiled roofs. Though in the main of
the 14th cent., the S. aisle and transepts
have lancets. The tower is a good one of
the usual Perp. type, with a bold angle
turret on the N.W., carried well above the
battlements, and a pyramidal tiled roof.
The E. window of 5 lights is filled with
modern painted glass. In one of the
lancets are some fragments of old glass.
A mural mont. to John Day, minister of
Pinner, d. 1622, has his effigy and an
insc. commencing—
" This portraiture presents him to thy sight
Who was a burning and a shining hght."
Other monts. are to the Clitherow, Page,
and Hastings families, and one to Sir
Bartholomew Shower, d. 1701, of Pinner
Hill, a lawyer famous in his day, and an
author of repute, who, the register re
cords, was " buried in sheep's wool only."
In the chancel is a mural brass of a chry-
som child, 1580.
The Abbot of Westminster was ap
pointed Keeper of Pinner Park in 1383,
Pinner Park, \ m. E. of the vill., was in
cluded in the grant made by Henry VIII.
to Sir Edward North (see Harrow) ; was
alienated, disparked, and converted into
tillage : it is now the property of St.
Thomas's Hospital. Pinner Hill (W. A.
Tooke, Esq.), 2 m. N.W., was the seat of
Sir Christopher Clitherow, and afterwards
of Sir Bartholomew Shower. It is a good
house ; the grounds are very beautiful,
and command wide views. A little E. is
Pinner Wood House (R. H. Silversides, ;
Esq.), where Lord Lytton wrote ' Eugene
Aram. ' In its vicinity is a fragment of
the still pleasant Pinner Wood. Pimm-
Place (Mrs. Garrard) was long the resi
dence of Zephaniah Holwell, Governor of
Bengal, and author of a narrative of the
sufferings of himself and fellow- prisoners
in the Black Hole, Calcutta. The Manor
House is the seat of H. Morley, Esq.
Pinner Green is a sort of hamlet, \ m.
N. of the vill. Beyond are Pinner Grove
and Woodhall. Woodridings, 1£ m., by the
Rly. Stat., is a growing hamlet, with some
good residences and a chapel-of-ease. At
Headstone, 1 m. E. of Pinner, was a resi
dence of the Abps. of Canterbury (see
Harrow) ; the moat still remains, ffatoh
End, by the rly., 1 m. N.E. of the vill., is
a hamlet of small houses, with a landing-
place for goods and coals on the rly.

PLAISTOW.

471

PLAISTOW.

Close to Pinner Rly. Stat., and the rly.,
are the Commercial Travellers' Schools
founded in 1845. The building, a pleasing
and commodious collegiate Gothic struc
ture, was opened by the Prince Consort in
1855. Wings were added in 1868, ren
dering it capable of accommodating 300
children ; and that number is now fully
maintained, in the proportion of about
200 boys and 100 girls. The schools are
admirably managed ; the boys, who re
ceive a superior education, leave at the
age of 15.
PLAISTOW, Essex, a vill. and
eccl. dist. of West Ham par., and a Stat.
on the L. and Southend Rly., 1 m. E. of
West Ham, 4J m. E. of Whitechapel ch. :
pop. 6699 (Plaistow St. Mary, 3448 ; St.
Andrew, 3251). But this is exclusive of
the new district in the Plaistow Marshes,
Canning Town, and Victoria Docks (" Lon
don over the border "), which in 1871 had
7874 inhabitants.
The old village of Plaistow, lying loosely
along North Street, the Broadway, Balaam
Street, and Greengate, with roomy old
houses and large gardens, tree-girt and
surrounded with green though level fields,
secluded, quiet, rural, was in the last and
early part of the present century a fa
vourite place of abode with sedate mer
chants and citizens of credit and renown.
Pelleys, Morleys, Gurneys, Frys, Howards,
Sturges, Hoares, Martins, Schroders, dwelt
within it or on its borders. There was a
Friends' Meeting House before there was
a ch., and Mrs. Fry, Joseph John, and
Samuel Gurney, the Howards, and the
Sturges were among the regular worship
pers and frequent ministrants. The In
dependents and other dissenters were
strongly represented, and the vill. had
altogether a staid and somewhat of a
puritanic aspect. Apart from the require
ments of the wealthier residents, the
occupations of the inhabitants were mainly
agricultural and pastoral.
"Upon a fertile spot of land,
Does Plaistow, thriving Plaistow stand,"
wrote an enthusiastic local bard. The
raising of potatoes in the fields, and
fattening sheep in the marshes, were the
chief sources of profit.
-"Potatoes now are Plaistow's pride,
Whole markets now are hence supplied ;

Nor finer mutton can you spend
Than what our fattening marshes Bend." *
Entirely changed is the old village now.
Unpleasant manufactures, driven from
the capital, have settled down in the
Marshes. The great Metropolitan Sewer,
in the form of a huge grass-covered em
bankment, has been carried across the
level, and through the vill. The con
struction of the sewer, the opening of the
rly., and the proximity of great manu
facturing establishments caused a large
influx of the labouring classes. The
gentry migrated. The handsome old
mansions have been pulled down, suffered
to go to decay, or diverted to other uses,
and the grounds built over. The trees
have been felled ; the fields, changed into
streets which lead nowhere, are left un
finished and fragmentary, and lined with
mean little tenements, which, dirty, frail,
and gardenless, look as though cast in a
mould — and that a bad one — and warped
and cracked whilst drying in the sun.
The Friends' Meeting House is trans
formed into a School Board school ; the
Congregational Chapel into " The Tonic
Sol-Fa Press" — with a steam-pipe puffing
out all day its unmelodious key-note ;
and the great house in the Broadway is
depressed into a " Destitute Children's
Home." One compensation Plaistow has :
though Mr. Gurney's stately house has
disappeared, his still handsome park has
been happily secured as a free public
park for ever.
West Ham Park lies just outside Plai-
tow vill., and Plaistow people have the
readiest access to it.
The Church of St. Mary, built in 1830,
is a small brick edifice of the Gothic then
in vogue. St. Andrew's, built in 1870,
from the designs of Mr. J. Brooks, is
another brick ch., but of an altogether
different type. Large, unusually lofty,
cruciform, it promises to be an imposing
edifice ; but left as it is incomplete, it can
hardly be considered satisfactory, how
ever much it may be in keeping with its
surroundings. The new Congregational
Chapel in Balaam Street is a very eccle
siastical looking building.
The old vill. has extended into the
Barking Road, and spread out over the
marshes, and has been met by straggling

White, Eastern Counties, voL ii., p. 299.

PLAISTOW.

472

PLUMSTEAD.

streets and houses from Hall Ville, Silver
Town, Canning Town, and the Victoria
Docks, manufacturing and shipping quar
ters, built on the marshes between the
Lea and the Thames, and reaching back a-
cross the Barking Road towards Plaistow
proper and West Ham. But these places
hardly fall within our province, belonging
rather to the outer border of London ; and
it will be enough to say that they have
grown up within the last few years about
the great docks, chemical, creosoting,
artificial manure, engineering and various
other works, without order and without
oversight ; are dirty, incomplete, unfra-
grant, unattractive, but in many points
of view exceedingly interesting. The Vic
toria Docks are perhaps the finest on the
Thames, and well worth visiting. They
have an area of 100 acres, admit ships of
the largest size, and are provided with
the most perfect hydraulic and other
appliances. The entrance lock is 325 ft.
long, and 80 ft. wide, and has a depth on
the sill of 28 ft. at high water. There are
churches at Silvertown ; at Nelson Street,
Victoria Docks (St. Luke); and in the
Barking Road (Holy Trinity) ; besides
chapels, schools, halls, and institutes in
numerable. Aaron Hill, distinguished in his day as
a dramatic writer, 'retired' to Plaistow
in 1738 to cultivate poetry and his garden,
and here wrote several of his pieces, in
cluding the adaptation of the tragedy of
' Mer ope, ' the last work he lived to com plete.
Edmund Burke was also for awhile a
resident here.
"About this time [1759] he occasionally resided
at Plaistow in Essex. A lady, then about 14 years
old and residing in the neighbourhood, informs me
that she perfectly remembers him there. His
brother Richard, who found employment in the
City, was with him frequently ; and both were
much noticed in the neighbourhood for agreeable
and sociable qualities. Among their visitors, cal
culated to attract notice in the country, were several
known as popular authors, and a few as men of
rank." *
Luke Howard, F.R. S., lived in a house
on the W. side of Balaam Street, opposite
the Greyhound. The house is still stand
ing, but has been new-fronted, and the
cupola lantern removed from the roof.
There he had his chemical laboratory,
and there carried out the meteorological
observations which resulted in his great
* Prior, life of Burke, Bonn's ed., p. 63.

work on 'The Climate of London,' and
the determination and nomenclature of
cloud-forms, universally adopted, and still
in use.
PLAISTOW, Kent (see Brom
ley). PLASHET, Essex (see East
Ham). PLUMSTEAD, Kent (Dom.
Plumestede), lies immediately E. of Wool
wich. The ch., at the eastern extremity
of the town, is 1 m. from Woolwich, but
the towns run into each other. Rly. stats. ;
Dartford br. of L. and S.E. Rly., Wool
wich Arsenal, for W. end of vill. ; Plum-
stead (by the ch.) for the E. Pop. 28,259 ;
in 1851 only 8373. Inn, Plume of leathers.
Plumstead High Street may be regarded
as a part of Woolwich, running into Bur-
rage Town, a new district of workmen's
houses, modern cottages, and small villas.
Beyond the streets is an agricultural
district, a large portion being cultivated
as market gardens, and the broad marshes
by the Thames kept for grazing. There are
chalk and sand pits, brick and tile works,
and kilns where drain-pipes, garden pots,
and sugar moulds are largely made.
Plumstead had once a weekly market, but
it belongs to a time beyond memory.
The old Church (St. Nicholas), situated
at the edge of Plumstead Marsh, by a fine
old farm-house, is a somewhat incongru
ous admixture of styles and periods. It
comprises nave and N. aisle, in part Perp.
N. transept or chapel, of E.E. date (obs.
the lancet on the E.) ; with Perp. window
inserted on N. chancel, and tall embattled
square brick tower of early 17th century
work, with imitation Gothic windows,
without cusps. The tower has a peal of 6
bells. The interior is commonplace, and
has no monts. of interest. The ch.-yard
contains many monts. to military officers,
and some whose names will probably be
familiar to the visitor. A stone erected, and
restored 1870 by subscription, has some
lines, often quoted for their oddity, on a
boy employed at the Arsenal who was
killed whilst in a tree taking cherries, by
the owner of the orchard :
"The hammer of Death was given to me
For eating the Cherris off the tree."

PLUMSTEAD.

473

PLUMSTEAD,

But far more strange — a real curiosity of
lapidary literature — are some lines on the
tomb E. of the ch., of Sir Wm. Green,
Bare'., Chief Royal Engineer, d. 1811 :
"Efficient duty, reminisoent, grave,
Yet mild philanthropy a reign may save,
If but the mind incline, rare to deny,
Courteous, humane, to misery a sigh,
To woe and wretchedness a constant friend ;
Whats this proud course, a rind, an atom, oloud,
Where shines the planet nature's voice is loud,
Soft sweep the lyre, pity her distress,
Compassions melting mood, his numbers bless.
On these perhaps our future joys depend."
Originally poet or mason " did not stand
upon points," for there was not one from
beginning to end of the inscription ; but
lately the tomb has been renewed, and the
epitaph sprinkled thickly over with points
with the effect of increasing the obscurity.
St. Margaret's, near the centre of the
town, was constituted in 1864 the mother-
church, when St. Nicholas was made an
eccl. dist. It is a spacious Gothic build
ing, erected in 1853, and comprises nave
and aisles, chancel, and tall embattled W.
tower. St. James's proprietary chapel is a
plain building in the Burrage Road. The
Royal Arsenal Chapel is in the High Street.
The manor of Plumstead was given by
King Edgar to the abbot and monks of
St. Augustine, Canterbury, in 960 ; but
taken from them by Earl Godwin and
given to his son Tostig. William I. gave
it to Odo, Bp. of Bayeux, who, on the
intercession of Abp. Lanfranc, restored
one moiety to St. Augustine's monastery,
and in 1074 added the other. The monks
remained in undisturbed ownership till
the compulsory surrender of all their
possessions to Henry VIII. In 1539
Henry granted the manor to Sir Ed
ward Boughton, whose descendant sold
it in 1685 to John Michel of Richmond,
Surrey. Michel, in 1736, devised the
manor of Plumstead, with other estates, to
Queen's College, Oxford, for the founda
tion of 8 fellowships and 4 scholarships
(to which have since been added 4 exhibi
tions) at that college. The monks of St.
Augustine obtained from King John ex
tensive privileges within their Plumstead
manor, which were confirmed and ex
tended by succeeding monarchs. These
included rights of court-leet and court-
baron, free warren, waifs and wrecks of
the river, a weekly market, and annual
fair. The other manors, Burwash, Bor-

stall, and Plumstead Upland, have no
features of particular interest.
Plumstead par. includes nearly 1000
acres of marsh. The Plumstead Marsh
extends from Woolwich Arsenal to Cross
ness, Erith Marsh being its eastern pro
longation. Over this space, bounded
inland by the line of low cliffs extending
from Woolwich to Erith, 4-| m. long, and
1 m. to IJ m. wide, the Thames flowed
at every spring tide till kept back by an
artificial embankment. As mentioned
under Abbey Wood, the monks of
Lesness Abbey who owned the E. portion
of the Marsh, inned the Great Marsh at
Plumstead, and a few years later the
Lesser Marsh. The monks of St. Augus
tine, as lords of the Plumstead Marsh, no
doubt contributed their share of the cost,
though the monks of Lesness, as resident
on the spot, would more efficiently con
duct the operations. Damage frequently
occurred to the river wall, and was as
often repaired ; but in 1527 two great
breaches were effected, one at Erith and
the other at Plumstead, which the engi
neering skill available was inadequate to
remedy, and the whole Marsh, of over 2000
acres, lay under water for 36 years. At
length a remarkable man, Jacob Acontius
(Giacomo Aconzio), distinguished as a
jurist, theologian, (his ' Stratagemata
SatanEe,' Basle, 1565, was widely read, and
translated into several languages,) and
lastly as an engineer, who was an exile in
England on account of his having abjured
the Romish faith, and a pensioner of
Queen Elizabeth, offered on certain con
ditions to repair the embankments and
recover the ' drowned ' land. His offer
was accepted, and an Act of Parliament
passed, 1563, empowering " the said Jacob
Acontyus, an Italian and servant to the
Queen," at his own " cost and charges,
after the 10th of March, 1663, during the
term of four years next following, to inne,
fence and win the said grounds, or any
parcel of them,' ' and in consideration and
recompense thereof, he was to have " a
moiety of the lands so won for his
charges." By Jan. 1565, a commission
appointed for the purpose reported that
600 acres had been effectually won and
embanked. Acontius did not, however,
live to complete his work. In the follow
ing year he had farmed his privilege to
John Baptista Castilion, perhaps on ae-

POTTERS BAR.

474

PURFLKET.

count of failing health. At any rate his
name appears no more, and he is believed
to have died the same year, 1666. By
1587, 1000 more acres had been recovered,
but 500 acres remained under water till
after 1606, when an Act was passed for
their recovery. The breach of 1864 and its
prompt stoppage are told under Erith,
p. 202, where also will be found an ac
count of the ' submerged forest,' or forest-
bed, underlying the Marsh, and the general
geological character of the district. The
Woolwich Arsenal Butt and Government
practice range for testing artillery occupy
the W. side of Plumstead Marsh. The
Southern Outfall of the Metropolitan Main
Drainage is on the E. side of Crossness,
and the powder magazines at various
points between Crossness and Erith. The
river as it rounds the Marsh makes in its
downward course the reaches of Galleons
(1 m. 85 yards) ; Tripcock, or Barking,
(1 m. 1235yds.) ; Halfway (2 m. 290 yds.) ;
and Erith (1 m. 770 yds.)
Plumstead Common affords some good
views across the river, and formed a
pleasant and healthy recreation-ground
for the townspeople till the end of 1874,
when it was enclosed and appropriated as
a riding-school and drill-ground for the
mounted troops stationed at Woolwich.
The far finer Borstall Heath has, how
ever, been secured as an open space for
public use and enjoyment. (See Erith ;
Abbey Wood.)
POLESDEN, Surrey (see Book-
ham, Great).
PONDEE'S END, Middx. (see
Enfield). POTTEES BAE, Middx., a vill.
on the Great Northern Road, 3 m. N. of
Barnet, and 14 m. from London : the
Potters Bar Stat, of the Gt. N. Rly. is
nearly 1 m. W. of the vill. Potters Bar
is an eccl. dist. of South Mimms par. :
pop. 1198. Inns, White Horse; Lion;
Railway Hotel.
The vill. stretches in a desultory way
for | m. along the highroad. The houses are
mostly small, but at the N. end are some
of good size in large gardens. The Church,
St. John, on the rt., towards the N. end,
is a neat white brick Norm, building,

erected in 1835, chiefly at the cost of
George Byng, Esq., for many years M.P.
for the county, father of the House of
Commons, and lord of the adjacent do
main, Wrotham Park. ( See South
Mimms.) Several of the windows are
filled with memorial painted glass ; and
there are monts. to the late Earl of
Strafford, by Noble, and to Lady Agnes
Byng, by Westmacott. In the vicinity
are Oakmere (H. Kemble, Esq.) ; Park-
field (H. Parker, Esq.) ; Osborne Park
(G. Gadsden, Esq.), etc. At Potters Bar,
Thorpe, the great Elizabethan architect,
built a house for T. Taylor, but all traces of
it are gone. Potters Bar, with the hamlet
of Ganwick Corner, lies on the N.W.
margin of Enfield Chase ; and when, in
accordance with the Act of 1777, the
Chase was enclosed, 1097 acres of it were
allotted to South Mimms parish.
Bentley Heath, on the N. of Wrotham
Park, is a pretty hamlet, with a semi-
Norm, ch. (Trinity Chapel), built in 1866
from the designs of Mr. S. S. Teulon, at
the cost of the Earl of Strafford.
PUEFLEET, Essex, the seat of
the Government gunpowder stores, a
hamlet of West Thurrock, from which it
is nearly 3 m. W., and a Stat, on the
Southend Rly. (16^ m.) : pop. 163, ex
clusive of the Garrison and Control
Department, 323, and the Cornwall Re
formatory Ship, 296. Inn, the Royal
Hotel. Purfleet stands on the Thames, by the
mouth of the Mardyke, a stream which
comes down from Bulphan, past Stifford,
and forms at its embouchure a small
creek or haven, whence the name, anc.
Pourtflete* from the A.-S. port, a har
bour, and fleot, the mouth of a river, a
place where vessels float. The Cockney
tradition that the place was so called -
from Queen Elizabeth's exclamation,
" My poor fleet," as she caught sight of
her fleet destined to oppose the Armada,
when on her way to review the troops
before embarkation, is some centuries too
modern. The manor belonged to the priory of
St. John of Jerusalem ; after the Dissolu
tion, was held by the Crown till granted
by Elizabeth, in 1583, to Sir George
* Morant, Hist, of Essex, vol, i,, p. 93.

PURFLEET.

475

PUTNEY.

Hart; afterwards passed to the Lakes,
Childs, and others ; and is now held by
S. C. Whitbread, Esq. Purfleet, like
other places along the Thames, has suf
fered from inundations. The most
serious recorded occurred in Dec. 1690,*
when, from the giving way of the river
wall, the marshy tract between Purfleet
and Grays was entirely submerged, and
an awkward shoal formed off the latter
place. Occupying the first high ground on
the Essex shore in descending the
Thames, Purfleet, with its fantastic
chalk cliffs, military-looking buildings,
and sentinels on guard, attracts the
notice of most passengers in the passing
steamers. From the shore its appearance
is not less peculiar. For a long series of
years the hills, which here come down
to the Thames, were excavated for chalk.
Many thousand tons were annually
sent away, or converted into lime at the
kilns, and deep, irregular, cavernous pits
were formed. Walls and cliffs of strange
shape were left standing in working the
quarry. One of great height, capped by
loam, is conspicuous. The quarries them
selves have been enclosed. The bottoms
are overgrown with wild underwood,
shrubs, and verdure, planted with fruit
trees, or laid out as gardens, and a
few primitive-looking cottages and a
chapel built in them. The sandy
banks and higher slopes are thickly
clad with oak, ash, hazel, and fir ; and
on the highest point of Beacon Hill is the
old wooden lighthouse, or observatory,
built many years ago by the Government
for watching and signalling, and various
experimental purposes, and now main
tained chiefly for the extensive view it
commands of the lower reaches of the
Thames. There is no village at Purfleet. The
inhab. are all in the Government service
or connected with the works, and are
housed in regulation rows of brick dwell
ings by the river-side. The Government
stores cover a large area, and are jealously
walled in. There' were powder magazines
here in 1759, when they were reported to
be in a dangerous condition, unenclosed,
out of repair, and propped up by shores.
An Act was in consequence passed (31
* Thorpe, Reg. Roffense, p. 225.

Geo. IL, cap. 11) for purchasing land at
Purfleet and erecting thereon a sufficient
gunpowder magazine, barracks, guard
house, and other necessary buildings.
The old corn-mill on the Mardyke was
purchased, the requisite land acquired,
and the dep6t gradually brought to its
present condition. The Powder Magazines,
the great reserve store for gunpowder, are
now capable of holding 60,000 barrels of
gunpowder, and 52,000 barrels (of 1001b.
each) were in store on a recent inspection.
The magazines are bomb-proof case
mates, disconnected, and under the
strictest and most watchful regulation
and supervision. Hitherto there has been
a happy immunity from accidents. The
barracks, guard-house, and officers'
quarters are of the usual description.
For the use of the Store a fine landing-
pier has been constructed, and off it may
usually be seen a store-ship or two, a gun
boat, or some one or other of the peculiar
craft now carrying the R.N. pennant.
The old man-of-war moored here is the
Cm-nwall, reformatory ship, of the School
Ship society. The boys are trained for
sea service, and remain, on the average,
2^ years on board.
By the pier is Wingrove's Royal Hotel,
noted for its dinners and its beds. Here
may be had the key of the Botany Bay
Gardens, formed out of a chalk pit, and
much resorted to in the summer. ' The
Botany,' as it is called by the natives, is
worth a visit, is free from vulgar decora
tions, and has as its crowning point the
Observatory, to which there is an easy
ascent by zigzag paths, and which repays
the trouble by a splendid view of the
Thames— if the day be clear.
From Purfleet there is a pleasant walk
to Aveley and Belhus. (See Aveley.)
PUBLEY, Surrey (see Caterham
Junction; Coulsdon).
PUESEE'S GEEEN, Middx. (see
Fulham). PUTNEY, Surrey, on the rt.
bank of the Thames, between Barnes
and Wandsworth, and directly opposite
Fulham, with which it is connected by a
wooden bridge (see Fulham) ; 4J m.
from Hyde Park Corner ; and a Stat, on

PUTNEY.

476

PUTNEY.

the Windsor br. of the L. and S.W. Rly.
Pop. 7492. Inns, Star and Garter, by
the river ; Railway Hotel, by Stat. ; Fox
and Hounds, Richmond Road ; Green
Man, on the Heath.
The derivation of the name is uncer
tain. It occurs as Putelei in Dom., and
Taylor thinks the ey commemorates "an
island in the lagoon " on this part of the
Thames ; but, as Lysons long before
pointed out, the name " in all subsequent
records till the 16th century is spelt Put-
tenheth or Pottenheth, since which period
it has obtained the name of Putney.
Stebonheath has in the same manner been
contracted to Stepney." *
Putney is included in the manor of
Wimbledon. In early days the ferry
was of importance ; it is mentioned in
the Domesday Survey as of the value of
20*. per annum, and it continued of im
portance till the building of the bridge in
1729. Harold held a fishery here, which
after the Conquest fell to the Abp. of
Canterbury, but " paid no rent." In
1663 the rent was the three best salmon
caught during the months of March, April,
and May. By a lease which expired in
1780, the rent was raised to £8 per
annum. Thirty years later the fishery
was still valuable : what would a Putney
fisherman think of catching smelts and
salmon here now, as they were caught in
1810? " Smelts are caught here in great abundance in
the months of March and April, and are esteemed
very fine. The salmon fishery is not very produc
tive, but the fish are of a very good quality, and
sell for a high price. Small flounders, Bhad, roach,
dace, barbel, eels, and gudgeons may be reckoned
also among the produce of the fisheries here. One
or two sturgeons are generally taken in the course
of a year ; and sometimes, though rarely, a por
poise. These are claimed by the Lord Mayor, and
the fishermen are obliged to deliver them as soon
as taken to the water-bailiff. For a porpoise they
receive a reward of 13s. ; for sturgeons a guinea
each." t
Queen Elizabeth made many visits to
Putney, to the house of John Lacy, Esq.,
a wealthy citizen and member of the
Clothworkers' Company, who lived in a
large house by the river, the ancient seat
* Lysons, Environs, vol. i.,p. 296 ; Taylor, Words
and Places, pp. 280, 348.
t Lysons, Environs, 2nd ed., 1811, voL i.,p. 312.
Two or three years later Faulkner (Hist, of Fulham)
complains that the salmon are leaving this part
of the Thames. Only one had been caught off
Fulham last season (1812).

of the Waldecks. Nichols says she
" honoured Lacy with her company more
frequently than any of her subjects." She
frequently dined with him, and some
times stayed two or three nights. Her
earliest visits were in 1579, the latest
Jan. 21, 1603, when she dined there on
her way from Whitehall to Richmond,
only two months before her death. At
least 12 or 14 visits are recorded in the
intermediate years.*
Putney, with Fulham (see Fulham, p.
219), was on various occasions occupied
by the Parliamentary forces. In 1647,.
when Charles I. was at Hampton Court,
the Parliamentary generals fixed them
selves at Putney. Fairfax had his quar
ters " at Mr. Wimondsold's, the high
sheriff " — the house at which Mr. Lacy
had so often received Queen Elizabeth ;
Cromwell was " at Mr. Bonhunt's," the
site of which is not known; Ireton, at
Mr. Campion's, a school when Lysons
wrote ; Fleetwood, at Mr. Martin's ; and
the other officers in the different mansions,
of which, at that time, there seems to
have been no deficiency. The generals
used to hold their councils — and they
had many grave matters to discuss — in
the church, seated round the communion
table. But they heard sermons there
also. On one occasion they received in
audience "one Gifthiel, a high German
prophet." On another occasion
"Sept. 18, 1647, after a sermon in Putney
church, the General, many great officers, field
officers, inferior officers and agitators, met in the
church, debated the proposals of the Army, and
altered some few things in them, and were full of
the sermon, whith was preached by Mr. Peters." t
The vill. or town has little in it to
attract attention. By the river-side is an
irregular collection of houses, some com
fortable old brick dwellings, but few of
mark, boat-building sheds, boat clubs
and boating houses — for this is the head
quarters of Thames boating men. It was
the starting-place for the Thames regatta
in its palmy days ; and it is now, as every
one knows, the starting-place in the
Oxford and Cambridge boat race. The
crews take up their abode at Putney — at
the Star and Garter, or at a private house
— during their preparatory trials and
* Nichols, Progresses of Q. Elizabeth, vol. ii.,
p. 92 ; Lysons, vol. i,p. 299.
t Whitelocke, Memorials, ed. 1732, p. 270.

PUTNEY.

477

PUTNEY.

coaching ; and Putney for the previous
week, as well as on the day of the race, is,
as the old watermen say, " Uke a fair."
The ugly wooden bridge which unites
Putney to Fulham, and the still uglier
iron aqueduct of the Chelsea Waterworks
Comp. immediately above it, from which
the University boats start, are noticed
under Fulham. The High Street, the
business street of the town, runs up at
right angles from the river towards the
Heath, a broad clean street with some
good, but for the most part commonplace,
houses. Beyond the railway is a con
stantly growing colony of villas.
Putney Church (St. Mary) stands at the
foot of the bridge. A ch. stood here at an
early date, but the present structure was
rebuilt, except the tower, in 1836, by Mr.
Edw. Lapidge, the architect of Kingston
Bridge. The ch. is spacious, well built,
of pale stock-brick and stone, and Perp.
in style. The massive tower, twin sister
to Fulham, is of stone, 4 stages high, with
angle turret and battlements : it was
repaired and restored when the ch. was
rebuilt. In it is a peal of 8 bells. The
int. is spacious, light, and neatly fitted.
The roof is of oak ; some of the windows
have painted glass. N. of the chancel is
a chapel, erected originally in the early
years of Henry VIII. by Nicholas West,
Bp. of Ely (d. 1533), the son of a baker
at Putney. Bp. West's Chapel stood
originally on the other side of the chancel,
but was removed to its present position
when the ch. was rebuilt. It can hardly
be regarded, therefore, as though it had
remained untouched, but it was probably
not materially altered, and it is interesting
from the late date of its erection. It is
Bmall, of good design, and the fan tracery
in the vaulting, in which are the Bp.'s
arms and initials, show few signs of
deterioration.* The painted glass in the
E. window was presented by Abp.
Longley, when Bp. of Ripon, as a
memorial of bis mother. There are
several monts. from the old ch. , but none
calling for particular attention. The
numerous tombs in the ch.-yard may be
passed with a similar remark. John
Toland, the celebrated sceptical writer of
the 18th cent., spent his last yearsin penury
* Jackson and Andrews, Illustrations of Bp.
West's Chapel in the Church of Putney, 4to, 1825.

in lodgings at a carpenter's in Putney ;
there wrote his ' Pantheisticon,' and most
of his later works ; died there, and was
" decently buried " in the ch.-yard, March
13, 1722. A few days before he died he
composed a Latin epitaph for his tomb,
which has often been printed, but we
failed to find this or any memorial of him
in the ch.-yard.
A new ch., St. John the Evangelist,
E.E. in style, was erected in 1859 on
Putney Hill, from the designs of Mr. C.
Lee, chiefly at the cost of Mr. J. T. Leader,
late M.P. for Westminster. All Saints,
on the Lower Common, is a picturesque
Gothic building designed by Mr. G. E.
Street, R.A., and consecrated in 1874.
The Almshouses of the Holy Trinity,
Wandsworth Lane, were founded and
endowed by Sir Abraham Dawes, in the
reign of Charles II., for 6 poor unmarried
men, and 6 women, but for some time
only women have been admitted. A large
red-brick building in Wandsworth Lane
is the Watermen's School, for the mainte
nance and education of 20 boys, the sons of
watermen. It was founded in 1684 by
Thomas Martyn, a London merchant,
who had been saved from drowning by a
Putney watermen. At Melrose House,
West Hill, is the Royal Hospital for
Incurables, founded in 1854 by Dr.
Andrew Reed. The building, recently
extended by the addition of wings, cxn
accommodate 200 patients, and contains
about 160, whilst upwards of 300 receive
pensions at their own homes.
Besides West, the magnificent Bp. of
Ely, Putney boasts of two eminent natives,
Thomas Cromwell Earl of Essex, the
minister of Henry VIII., and Edward
Gibbon, the historian. Thomas Cromwell
was the son, as is said, of a blacksmith at
Putney, and tradition used to point to the
site of " an ancient cottage, called the
Smith's shop, lying W. of the highway
leading from Putney to the Upper Gate,
and on the S. side of the highway from
Richmond to Wandsworth, being the sign
of the Anchor," as his birthplace.
Gibbon was born April 27, 1737, at the
house of his paternal grandfather ; " a
spacious house," he calls it, "with gardens
and lands," situate between the roads
which lead to Wandsworth and Wimble
don, and in which the celebrated mystical
divine and non-juror, William Law, author

PUTNEY.

478

PUTNEY.

of the ' Serious Call to the Unconverted '
lived and ruled as spiritual director. But
a great deal of the sickly child's time
was spent with his aunt, Mrs. Catherine
Porten, at the house of his maternal
grandfather close to Putney Bridge.
"As far back as I can remember the house near
Putney bridge and churchyard of my maternal
grandfather, appears in the light of my proper
and native home. It was there that I was allowed
to spend the greatest part of my time, in sickness
or in health, during my school vacations and my
parents' residence in London, and finally after my
mother's death" [17481. »
Gibbon's house was afterwards the
residence of Robert Wood, Esq., M.P.,
distinguished as a traveller, and the
author of the splendid folio ' Ruins of
Palmyra, otherwise Tadmor in the De
sert,' 1753, and the corresponding volume,
' The Ruins of Baalbec,' fol., 1757. Mr.
Wood died at his house, Putney, Sept.
1771, and was interred in the New Ceme
tery, Upper Richmond Road, where a
costly marble sarcophagus was erected,
with an inscription, to his memory, written
by Horace Walpole. James Macpherson, of
Ossian fame, lived in a villa on Putney
Heath, afterwards inhabited by Andrew
Drummond, Esq. William Pitt, the
Minister, d. 1806, at his residence, Bowl
ing- Green House, on the brow of the
Heath. The story of his dying alone,
deserted by relatives, friends, and ser
vants, is pure fiction. Pitt had taken a
dislike to Nollekens, and would never sit
to him for his bust ; but as soon as the
sculptor heard of the Minister's decease,
he hurried to Putney, and succeeded in
obtaining permission to take a mask of
bis face.
" On Mr. Nollekens's return from Putney Com
mon, after taking Mr. Pitt's mask, he observed to
Mr. Gahagan [his assistant], pointing to it on the
opposite side of the coach, ' There, I would not take
50 guineas for that mask, I can tell ye. ' He would
have done wrong if he had, for from this mask,
and Hoppner's picture, which was lent him by
Lord Mulgrave, he was enabled to produce the
statue erected in the Senate House of Cambridge,
for which he received 3000 guineas. . . . He also
executed at least 74 busts in marble, for almost
every one of which he had 120 guineas ; and there
were upwards of 600 casts taken at six guineas
each."t A prodigious illustration of Pitt's popu
larity at the moment of his decease.
Henry Fuseli, R.A., the historical
* Gibbon, Memoirs of My Life and Writings.
t J. T. Smith, Nollekens and his Times, 1828,
vol. ii., pp. 44 — 48.

painter, d. April 16, 1825, at the house on
the hill belonging to the Countess of
Guildford, where he was on a visit.
Douglas Jerrold lived at West Lodge,
Lower Common, from 1845 to 1854, — the
most prosperous and sunniest period of
his life, says his son. It was there he
wrote Mrs. Caudle. Leigh Hunt died
Aug. 28, 1859, in Putney, at the house of
his friend Mr. C. W. Reynell.
Putney Heath, of over 400 acres, is a
pleasant breezy tract of sand, heath, and
furze,— slightly broken in surface, and
affording some good views in the higher
parts, — joined on the one hand to the
wider Wimbledon Common, and on the
other opening upon Richmond Park. Like
Wimbledon and neighbouring heaths,
Putney was in the olden times a noted
haunt of highwaymen. It was also noted
for duels, some of which were re
markable. Here, in May 1652, George,
6th Lord Chandos, and Col. Henry
Compton fought ; Compton was killed,
and 2 years afterwards (May 1654) Lord
Chandos and his second, Lord Arundel,
were tried and convicted of manslaughter.
On a Sunday afternoon in May, 1798, a
bloodless encounter took place between
the Prime Minister, William Pitt, and
Wm. Tierney, M.P. for Southwark. Less
happy was the duel fought between two
Cabinet Ministers and Secretaries of State
11 years later, near the Telegraph, at 6
o'clock on the morning of the 21st of
Sept., 1809, when Lord Castlereagh shot
George Canning in the thigh.
Putney Heath has been used for reviews
and sham-fights, as well as for real duels.
Occasionally, as would seem from an entry
of Pepys', it has been used for horse-
racing. " May 1th, 1667.— To St. James's ; but there find
Sir W. Coventry gone out betimes this morning,
on horseback, with the King and Duke of York,
to Putny Heath, to run some horses." *
But Putney Heath was perhaps most
noted at one time for its Bowling-Green,
for more than 60 years (1690—1750) the
most famous green in the neighbourhood
of London. The house had large rooms
for public breakfasts and evening assem
blies, and was, while the Bowling Green
flourished, a fashionable place of enter
tainment. * Pepys, Diary.

RADLETT.

479

RADLETT.

" This is to give Notice that Ed. Lockett at
Charing Cross hath taken the Bowling Green
House on Putney Heath, where all gentlemen may
be entertained." *
In 1720, Putney was described as a place
" graced with large and good buildings,
well inhabited by gentry ; and the more
for its good air and the diversions its
large Heath affords. ' Where there is a
Bowling-green, well resorted unto in the
summer season." f That is all that is
told about Putney, so that it is plain its
Bowling Green was, still its chief attrac
tion. And Defoe, in 1722, writes of being
insensibly led to " the- Bowling Green of
Putney, whither the citizens resort twice
a week, and where I have seen pretty deep
play."* In 1750, Horace Walpole, in giving an
account of the apprehension of James
M'Lean, "the gentleman highwayman,"
writes :
"M'Lean had a quarrel at Putney Bowling-
green two months ago with an officer whom he
challenged for disputing his rank ; but the captain
declined till M'Laren should produce a certificate
of his nobility, which he has just received." §
M'Lean was executed at Tyburn, Oct.
3, 1750. Whether his connection with the
Bowling Green tended to bring it into
disrepute does not appear, but it declined,
and was shortly after closed. A few years
ago some old inhabitants professed to
remember it, but probably their recollec
tion was more from hearsay than any
thing else. The Bowling Green House,
a large rambling building, was converted
into a private residence, and in it, as
* London Gazette for 1693, No. 2965.
f Stow, Survey of London, by Strype, fol., 1720,
vol. i. , p. 44.
J De Foe, a Journey through England. 8vo, 1722,
vol. i., p. 182.
§ Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, Aug. 2, 1760,
Letters, vol. ii., p. 219.

already noticed, William Pitt lived for
several years, and there died. The next
villa, known as Lord Bristol's, was for
some time the residence of Mrs. Siddons.
The Obelisk, a short distance from
Bowling Green House, was erected to
commemorate the experiments of Mr.
David Hartley (son of Dr. Hartley, author
of ' Observations on Man '), who built a
house here, 1776, which, by inserting
plates of iron and copper between double
floors, he professed to make fire-proof.
The experiments were many times re
peated, and were witnessed by the King
and Queen, members of both Houses of
Parliament, the Lord Mayor and Corpora
tion, and excited very general interest.
On one occasion, several members of the
royal family remained in perfect security
in an upper room whilst a fierce fire was
raging in the room under them : and the
same experiment was many times tried
by other parties. The trials were pro
nounced successful. The House of Com
mons voted Mr. Hartley £2500 to defray
his expenses ; he received the freedom of
the Goldsmiths' Company, and the City
of London erected this Obelisk, the first
stone of which, as the insc. on it records,
was laid by the Rt. Hon. John Sawbridge,
the Lord Mayor, on the anniversary of
the Fire of London. Hartley's 'Fire-
house ' still stands ; but houses continue
to be burnt down. Near the Obelisk was
erected, in 1796, the Admiralty Semaphore,
or Telegraph, by which Castlereagh and
Canning fought their celebrated duel.
The Common was once noted for its
tumuli, but they have long since been
emptied or levelled.
PYEGO, or PIEGO, Essex (see
Haveeing-atte-Bowee).

EADLETT, Herts, a hamlet and
eccl. dist-. of Aldenham, 3 m. N. of Els-
tree, on the road to St. Albans, and a Stat.
on the Midland Rly. 1 5 m . from St. Pancras :
pop. 443. Inns : Red Lien; Railway.
The vill. consists of a few plain cottages,
an inn, and a convenient rly. stat., very
prettily situated in the midst of a farming
country, with uplands and park-like

grounds, and abundant trees on either
hand. The Church (Christ Church) was
built in 1864 on Cobden Hill, some dis
tance S. of the vill. and stat. It is an
early Dec. building of flint and stone,
with red-brick bands ; cruciform, with a
tower and tall octagonal stone spire at the
N.E. angle. Some of the windows have
memorial painted glass.

RADLETT.

480

RAINHAM.

By the stat. is a pretty up-hill lane to
Shenley; in the opposite direction is a
pleasant walk by lane and field-path to
Aldenham (a short 2 m.) The turning by
the Red Lion leads, by a crooked lane on
the 1., to Gill's Hill, the scene of the
murder of Mr. Wm. Weare, on the night
of Friday, Oct. 24, 1823, which excited at
the time almost unprecedented interest.
Weare was shot by his companion Thur-
tell, while riding with him in a gig to
Probert's house in this lane ; his body was
deposited in a pond behind the cottage,
while the murderers divided the spoil,
and afterwards dragged through a hedge
into a field at a short distance from the
house. Suspicion having been aroused,
the body was searched for and found, and
the murderers arrested. Thurtell, a noted
betting-man and gambler, son of the
Mayor of Norwich, was tried, convicted,
and hanged at Hertford. Probert was
admitted king's evidence, and set at
liberty, but some time after apprehended,
tried, and hanged for horse-stealing. The
story of the murder was dramatized, and
the actual roan horse and yellow gig in
which Weare was carried were exhibited
on the stage. Carlyle more than once
alludes to incidents connected with the
murder, and Sir Walter Scott was so
fascinated by the story that he describes
himself as spending a morning over a
variorum edition of the trial ; and more
than four years after the murder, when
returning from London to the North, he
turned out of his way to examine the
scene of the tragedy. He writes in his
Diary :
" Our elegant researches carried us out of the
highroad and through a labyrinth of intricate
lanes, which seem made on purpose to afford
strangers the full benefit of a dark night and a
drunk driver, in order to visit Gill's Hill in Hert
fordshire, famous for the murder of Mr. Weare.
The place has the strongest title to the description
of WordBworth —
' A merry spot, 'tis said, in days of yore,
But something ails it now — the place is curst.'
The principal part of the house is destroyed, and
only the kitchen remains standing. The garden
has been dismantled, though a few laurels and
flowering shrubs, run wild, continue to mark the
spot. The fatal pond is now only a green swamp,
but so near the house that one cannot conceive
how it was ever chosen as a place of temporary
concealment for the murdered body. . . . The dirt
of the present habitation equalled its present deso
lation, and a truculent looking hag, who showed us
the place and received half-a-crown, looked not
unlike the natural inmate of such a mansion. She

hinted as much herself, saying the landlord had
dismantled the place, because no respectable poison
would live there." *
The house hardly seems to have been so
thoroughly dismantled as Scott describes.
It is a common rough-cast, one-storey
cottage, with a high-pitched tile roof. On
the ground floor is a window on each side
the door, and three windows are on the
floor above. Behind is still the dirty half-
drained pond, with a gaunt fir-tree by it,
and on this side it might by night make a
weird study for a haunted house ; but as
the old woman, its sole inhabitant, told
Sir Walter, she had seen no ghosts and
feared none, so hold its present occupants.
The barn, opposite the cottage, which
played its part in the story, is now ruinous.
A cleft oak up the lane by it marks the
place, according to the local tradition,
where the body was dragged through the
hedge, and near where it was found.
Weare was buried in Elstree churchyard.,
(See Elsteee.)
EAINHAM, Essex, on the Irigre-
bourn, about a mile from its outfall in
the Thames at Rainham Ferry ; 5 m. E. of
Barking on the road to Grays, 12^ m. from
Whitechapel, and a Stat, on the L. and
Southend Rly. : pop. 1122. Inns, Phcenix,
by the stat., a comfortable house, with out
look over the Thames ; Angel; Bell.
The vill. extends for some distance along
the London road, here a crooked street
lined with old-fashioned houses and occa
sional gardens, large coal yards and wharfs
by the brook, which forms a creek navi
gable by lighters to the bridge, and the
old church with a large old red-brick house
by it, just ofE the main street. Rainham
is the centre and port of an extensive dis
trict of market gardens, and a considerable
trade is done in carrying potatoes and the
like by the lighters to London and bring
ing back coal and manure. The neigh
bourhood is pleasing, the cottage gardens
abound in flowers, and the walks along the
uplands N. and E. afford bright glimpses
of the Thames and the Kentish hills.
The Church (St. Helen and St. Giles, a
unique conjunction) was given by Richard
de Lucy, Grand Justiciar of England,
1179, to his Abbey of Lesness, and pro-
* Scott's Diary, May 28, 1828, Lockhart, Memoin
of the Life of Sir Walter Scott, chap, lxivi.

REDHILL.

4S1

REDHILL.

bably was built, or rebuilt, about that
time. The body of the ch. is late Norm.,
with windows of later insertion. The
low massive square tower is E.E., and
has heavy buttresses and modern brick
battlements. A doorway S. of the chancel
has a late Norm, arch, with good chevron
moulding and grotesque heads to the
small caps. The chancel arch is Norm.
with plain mouldings. The pier arcades
have square shafts and dentil mouldings
to the caps. The only noteworthy memo
rial is a late 15th cent, brass of a civilian
and his wife, without an insc Charles
Churchill, the poet, was curate to his
father, who was rector of Rainham, about
1756-58, and is said to have opened a
school here, which was not successful.
At Rainham Ferry, at the mouth of
Rainham Creek, are wharves and the
Three Crowns Inn. Here is the City rifle
range, much used by London volunteers.
EANMOEE, Sukrey (see Dork
ing). BEDHILL, Sukrey, a modern
rly. town, and a stat. (20| m. from London
Bridge} on the L., B., and S. C., and L. and
S.E., Rlys., is within the parish, and a
member of the municipal borough, of
Reigate, from which town it is IJ m. E.
Pop. 9323 (eccl. dist. of St. Matthew 4582,
St. John 4741). Inns, Warwick Hotel;
S.-Eastem Hotel, etc
When Redhill was made a first-class
station of the Brighton and S.- Eastern
rlys., its convenience of access, reputed
healthiness, and the charm of the scenery
drew to it numerous merchants and men
of business who prefer living at a moderate
distance from the capital. It was of course
speedily markedas a quarry by the specula
tive builder, and on the hill- top has grown
up a populous railway town of hideous
brick shops and habitations, and around it
a belt of ostentatious villas, comfortable
looking mansions, and tasteful and ornate
dwellings of many varieties, with a super
abundance of builders' detached and semi
detached malformations. But the beauty
of the neighbourhood has been little
impaired. From the hill and heathy
common there are fine views, and about
the lanes still umbrageous and pleasant
walks. John Linnell, our veteran land
scape painter, resides here. His studio

has long been the fields of Redhill and
Reigate, and the scenery so familiar on
his canvas is only a slightly idealized
transcript of the natural landscapes of
these localities. The views over the
Weald, seen from any of the southern
heights or slopes on an autumn evening,
will at once recall many a familiar com
position. Redhill has a couple of churches, a
Roman Catholic chapel, a large Gothic
Congregational church, three or four
Baptist and various other chapels,
schools, institutes; a spacious Market
Hall and Assembly Rooms (a respectable
Elizabethan building of rough-hewn local
stone), a bank, newspaper, and the other
appurtenances of advanced civilisation.
The corn-market has indeed ceased to be
held, but there is ¦-¦ monthly market for
cattle. On the Common is an excellent
cottage hospital. The older of the
churches, St. John the Evangelist, was
erected on the slope of the hill in 1843,
from the designs of Mr. J. T. Knowles,
and is a good and carefully finished Perp,
building, with a tower and octagonal spire
120 ft. high. The nave has an open
timber roof 4 the chancel, vaulting with
fan-tracery. St Matthew's was built in
1867, and is a spacious early Dec. building,
with a lofty spire.
About 4 m. from Redhill is the Philan
thropic Society's Farm, a school for the
reformation of criminal boys, conducted
on the ''family organization" so success
fully carried out at Mettray, The RedhUl
Farm was established in 1849. Tbe farm
is about 250 acres in extent, and the
buildings, designed by Mr. Moffatt, are
extensive, complete, and well furnished ;
not one large building, but five different
¦" houses," with their connected farms,
each having its complement of about 50
boys. Besides farming, the boys are
taught brickmaking, smith's work, brick
laying, carpentry, snoemaking, and tailor
ing. The whole work of the farm is done
by the boys. When they leave the school,
situations are, if possible, obtained for
them, if they elect to remain in England ;
outfit and passage if they choose to go to
the colonies. The boys are healthy and
look content, and the system is on all
hands reported to work well. The Farm
can receive 300 boys : at the census of
1871 there were 248. 31

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482

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At Earlswood, 1 m. S. of Redhill, is the
Asylum for Idiots, an admirable institu
tion, founded by the late Dr. Andrew Reed
at Highgate in 1847. The Prince Consort
laid the first stone of the buildings at
Earlswood in 1853, and he formally opened
them in 1856. They were much enlarged
in 1870, the Prince of Wales having laid
the first stone of the additional buildings
June 29, 1869. In May 1875 they con
tained 596 inmates. The grounds, very
prettily laid out, are about 80 acres in
extent. The Asylum is open to visitors
(it will be well to obtain an order at the
office, 29, Poultry, E.C), and any one who
desires to see what may be done to amelio
rate the apparently hopeless condition of
the idiot and the imbecile will do well to
visit the Earlswood Asylum.
EEIGATE, Surrey, a municipal
borough and market town, 21 m. from
London by road, 23 m. by the L. and S.E.
Rly. ; pop. of the par. and borough,
15,916, but this includes Redhill and
outlying parts, ahd is subdivided into
Reigate Borough, 2945, and Reigate
Foreign, 12,971. Inns : the White Hart,
an excellent family hotel ; Swan, Grapes,
both good commercial houses.
The town is seated on the Folkestone
beds of the Lower Greensand formation,
near the head of the long and lovely
Holmesdale, a valley bounded N. by chalk
downs, S. by a steep ridge of greensand.
The neighbourhood is exceedingly beauti
ful. The vegetation along the greensand
is proverbially luxuriant ; the views from
the ridge are rich, varied, and extensive.
What they appear to the artist, Mr.
Linnell's landscapes— all inspired by this
locality — sufficiently attest ; of how much
interest the view from the chalk down is
to the geologist, Mantell has well told : —
" The view from the summit of the chalk hills,
to the N. of Reigate, is as interesting to the geolo
gist as to the lover of the picturesque ; for it
presents a magnificent landscape, displaying the
physical structure of the Weald, and its varied and
beautiful scenery. At the foot of the downs lies
the valley in which Reigate iB situated ; and im
mediately beyond the town appears the elevated
ridge of Shanklin sand, which stretches towards
Leith Hill on the W., and to Tilburstow Hill on
the E. The forest ridge of the wealden occupies
the middle region, extending westward towards
Horsham, and eastward to Crowborough Hill, its
greatest altitude, and thence to Hastings, having
on each flank the wealds of Kent and Sussex ;
while in the remote distance the rounded and un

dulated summits of the South Downs appear
stretched along the verge of the horizon.*
In the Dom. Survey both hundred and
town are named Cherchfelle, the church-
field, probably from some ch. which stood
here, though none is mentioned. The
earliest known reference to it as Reygate
is in 1279 ; later it is always so called.
The form Reigate is probably derived
from its position : Reigate = the ridge
road, from rigg, a ridge or back, and gate,
a road or passage.
The manor was granted by William
Rufus, in the first year of his reign, to
William Earl of Warren and Surrey, and
it was held with the earldom — though not
in the direct line of descent — till 1483,
when it lapsed by the death of Richard
Plantagenet in the Tower of London. It
then reverted to the heirs of Elizabeth
Mowbray, Duchess of Norfolk, one moiety
going to John Howard, Duke of Norfolk,
and his son Thomas, 14th Earl of Surrey,
the other to Thomas Stanley, afterwards
Earl of Derby, and father-in-law of
Henry VII. On the attainder of the
Duke of Norfolk, his lands escheated to
the Crown, and his moiety of Reigate was
granted by Edward VI. to William Lord
Howard of Effingham. His son, Charles
Earl of Nottingham, settled his half-share
of Reigate as a jointure on hiB second
wife, Margaret, who, after his decease,
married for her second husband William
Monson, created Baron Monson, and
Viscount Castlemain in Ireland. Having
thus acquired one moiety, Lord Monson
purchased the other of the 4th Earl of
Dorset, and thus reunited the manor.
Lord Monson took part with the Parlia
ment against Charles I., and on the
Restoration was tried, stripped of his
estates, and died a prisoner in the Tower.
Reigate was given to James Duke of
York, and held by him whilst king. Being
forfeited by his abdication, it was granted
in 1697, by William III., to the Lord
Chancellor Somers. On his death it
passed to his sisters, and on the death of
the survivor, Lady Jekyll, it descended to
her nephew James Cocks, then to his
nephew Charles Cocks, created, 1784,
Baron Somers of Evesham. From his
son, created Viscount Eastnor and Earl
* Dr. Mantell, Bray ley's Surrey, vol. i, p. 147.

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483

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Somers in 1821, it came to the present
owner, Charles, 3rd Earl Somers.
Reigate was of sufficient consequence to
send a representative to the House of
Commons in the reign of Edward I., 1297.
From the reign of Edward III. it sent two
members, till the Reform Act of 1832
deprived it of one. Up to this time it
was a nomination borough entirely under
the control of the Earl of Hardwick and
Earl Somers, a Yorke and a Cocks being
invariably returned. Under the new fran
chise the single member was a Cocks till
1S57. The reformed borough had 960
electors in 1866, when a select committee
of the House of Commons reported that
'• bribery and treating had extensively pre
vailed ... at the elections in the years 1863
and 1865," as well as at previous elections,
and Reigate was consequently disfran
chised by the Representation Act of 1867.
It had, however, been incorporated in
1863, and though no longer a parliament
ary, it ranks as a municipal borough, and
has a mayor, 6 aldermen, and 17 council
lors. A weekly market was granted to
Reigate by Edward II. in 1313 : it is still
held every Tuesday, and a cattle market
on the first Tuesday in each month.
Lying in the main line of the Pilgrims'
Way from the West to Canterbury, and at
the junction probably of two or three
secondary ways, Reigate was an important
centre and halting-place for Canterbury
Pilgrims. For their special use it had
a chapel dedicated to St. Thomas, and
hostels no doubt for their lodging and
refreshment. After the Reformation the
chapel was used as a market hall and
assize court, till, becoming dilapidated, it
was taken down in 1708, and a new
market house and town hall built on its
site. The White Hart hotel, which stands
opposite to it, may mark the site of the
hostel frequented by pilgrims of the higher
class, but tradition has fixed on the Red
Cross inn at the W. end of the High Street
as the representative pilgrim's hostel.
Reigate had its baronial castle and
priory, but has figured little in history.
In the civil war the town was held alter
nately by Royalists and Parliamentarians ;
loyal and noble personages have visited or
passed through it; but no stirring inci
dent is recorded. Nor has it been made
illustrious by its inhabitants. We have
the names of no eminent natives. The

philosophical Shaftesbury lived here, but
did not, as has been said, write his
Characteristics here. He retired to Reigate
for a short time, when failing health was
about to cause him to quit England for
the last time. Two letters to Harley
Earl of Oxford and Lord Godolphin are
dated Reigate, March 29, and May 27,
1711 ; and he left England in the follow
ing July. The house he occupied was
afterwards the residence of Mr. R. Barnes,
a local celebrity in his day, who so im
proved the grounds, that Reigate folk
designated it " the world in an acre." Ano
ther temporary resident in Reigate was Lord
Lytton's hero, Eugene Aram, who served
for a year as usher in Mr. Alehin's school in
Church Street, lodged in a cottage called
(for some unexplained and inexplicable
reason) Upper Repentance, wore a gold-
laced hat and ruffles, and was known as
a " gay man."
Reigate Castle was built by one of the
Earls of Warren on an elevation N. of the
town, and perhaps on the site of an ear
lier fortress. The date of its erection is
not known, but it was seized by the parti
zans of Prince Louis in the reign of John.
When Camden wrote, Reigate Castle was
" forlorn, and for age ready to fall ; " and
in a survey made in 1623 it was described
as decayed. But five-and-twenty years
later enough strength remained in it to
cause the House of Commons (or Derby
House) Committee to direct care to be
taken of it, and that it be put " into such
a condition that no use may be made of it
to the endangering of the peace of the
kingdom." The building was in conse
quence dismantled, but portions of the
walls, with low flanking towers, were left
at the close of the 18th' cent. Nothing
remains of the castle now except the
strange entrance archway built by Mr.
Barnes, in 1787, out of fragments of the
old wall. What is called the castle court
is the mound on which the keep stood,
and is surrounded by a dry ditch. The
habitable building stood apart from the
keep, and had, besides its mural defences,
an outer moat, and the natural steepness
of the ground rendered more difficult by
artificial means.
In the centre of the court, by a rude
recent structure of "rock- work," is the
entrance to the Barons' Cave, a series of
extensive vaults, which local faith, as early

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484

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as Gough's time, assumed to be the secret
conference hall of the barons prior to
meeting King John at Runnimede, and
that here, in short, Magna Charta was
elaborated.* This may be dismissed with
out hesitation as legendary; but the
cavern may be visited : the key and can
dles will be brought for a. small gratuity
from the cottage close by. A flight of steps
and a long sloping tunnel, together 240 ft.
long, lead to a chamber 23 ft. long, 13 ft.
wide, and 11 ft. high, called, with or with
out reason, the Dungeon. Left of this is a
sort of gallery 150 ft. long, having a semi
circular end with a seat round it, and a
kind of vaulted roof, 12 ft. high. This is
the Barons' Chamber, and here tradition
affirms their conferences were held.
Nearer to the entrance is a third' and
larger apartment, with a pointed roof. A
closed arch in the Barons' Chamber is
pointed out as the entrance to a passage
that led to the town, while another passage,
tradition asserts, led to the priory. The
probability is that these vaults served as
cellars for storing provisions, and reposi
tories for articles of value, whilst there
was most likely a sally-port from them to
the outer moat, which will account for
the tradition of tunnels to the town and
priory. The passages may be as old as the
castle, but the rock is a soft sandstone,
and they may have been enlarged or ex
tended at any time : there is nothing in
their appearance to determine their date.
The rude figures were, we believe, carved,
or recarved, by a living local artist. Some
what similar excavations exist in other
parts of the town. The largest and most
remarkable of them, to which there was
entrance from the cellars of the Red Cross
inn, opposite which stood the original
market-house, fell-in May 9, 1860.
The Castle Grounds, several acres in
extent, were till recently in a wild and
neglected state. They have, however,
been cleared, planted with shrubs and
flowers, and formed into very pretty
pleasure-grounds, and a lease of them for
999 years, presented by their owner, Lord
Somers, to the town, on condition that
they be kept in order and opened free.
There are pleasant walks, old elms with
seats under them, and from the castle
mound splendid views over the town and
* Gough's Camden's Britannia, vol, i., p. 252.

priory, and away to Box Hill, Dorking,
and the chalk downs.
Reigate Priory was founded by William
Earl of Warren and Surrey (d. 1240),
and his wife Isabel, in honour of the
Virgin Mary and the Holy Cross, for a
prior and canons of the order of St.
Augustine. It seems never to have grown
into greatness, and was among the first of
the religious houses suppressed, 1535 —
those, namely, with revenues under £200
per annum — the entire income of Reigate
Priory being only £77 14*. \\d. The
priory estate was granted (in exchange
for the rectory of Tottenham, Middx.) to
Lord Effingham, who built himself a man
sion on the site. Of the Priory buildings
not » vestige is left. Lord Effingham's
house, The Priory, has been so much
altered and modernized as to retain little
of its original aspect. The present build
ing is a spacious and comfortable-looking
mansion, and contains some fine rooms.
The lofty and elaborately carved chimney-
piece in the entrance hall (formerly " the
great chamber ") is stated alike by Man
ning and by Bray ley to have been brought
from Nonsuch Palace; bnt Evelyn, who
saw it at Reigate nearly twenty years
before the Duchess of Cleveland dismantled
Nonsuch, says that it came from Bletch-
ingry. " May 21, 1665. — I went to Rygate to visit Mi's,
Carey at my Lady Peterboro's, in an antient
monastery well in repaire, but the park much
def ac'd ; the house is nobly furnish' d. The
chimney piece in the greate chamber, carved in
wood, was of Henry 8. and was taken from an
house of his in Blechinglee, At Rygate was now
the Archbishop of Armagh, the learned James
Usher, whom I wente to visite." *
The priory estate had been carried by
marriage from the Effingham to the
Mordaunt family, and was sold by the
brilliant and errant Charles Mordaunt,
3rd Earl of Peterborough, about 1680, to
a wealthy citizen, Sir John Parsons, who
made many costly alterations in the house,
converted the great chamber into an-
entrance hall, and employed Verrio to
embellish the chief apartments. The next
owner, a Mr. Ireland, pulled down a por
tion of the house, and altered what was
left. Early in the present century the
estate was purchased by the Earl of
Somers, the house remodelled, brought
* Evelyn, Diary.

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485

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into its actual condition, and made the
family seat. Lord Somers formed here a
small but choice collection of pictures,
and a large library of old books. Grote,
who resided here from Dec. 1858 to
March 1859, found the library a. great
attraction, " and many a spare hour was
passed by him in exploring its treasures,
perched upon the steps of the lofty ladder,
candle in hand." * It is at present occu
pied by D. P. Blaine, Esq. The grounds
are picturesque, pleasant, and richly
wooded. The town consists of the long High
Street stretching for nearly a mile from
E. to W., and a second street running from
it southward, with various outlying ex
tensions and a genteel northern suburb
called Wray Park. Camden's description
of it in Elizabethan days, as " carrying a
greater show for largenesse than faire
buildings," is still applicable. But it is a
town whose appearance tells its story
pretty clearly. There are old houses,
inns, and shops, solid, heavy, and dark ;
but they are yearly becoming fewer. Of
old a place of local importance, and doing
a good trade, in a deliberate, dreamy way,
it became in the days of Brighton's coach
ing glory an active coaching and posting
centre, with its White Hart, the Clarendon
of the Brighton road. The railway came,
and not only drove off the coaches, and
avoided the town, but by establishing its
great junction station for the Brighton
and Dover lines at Redhill, called into ex
istence a new and rival town/which speedily
outstripped the elder in size and population,
and carried off no small share of its trade.
For awhile Reigate was paralyzed, but at
length it too got its rly. stat., though only
on a subsidiary line. Trade revived ; the
beauty of the neighbourhood attracted
men of means, and villas sprang up all
around, and now the town is putting on a
new aspect without altogether casting off
the old, and wears* a solidity of character
that entitles it, as it feels, not merely to
hold its head proudly, but to look down
patronizingly on its parvenu neighbour.
The Market House and Town Hall, in
which also the sessions used to be held, is
a small brick building, facing the White
Hart, erected in 1798, when it was de-
* Mrs. Grote, Personal Life of George Grote, p.

cided to remove the market from the W.
end of the town, where it had been pre
viously held. The Town Hall has been
practically superseded by a Gothic Public
Hall, erected by a company in 1861. It
has a large room for public meetings and
assemblies, and in it sessions and county
courts are held, and a mechanics' institute
and museum lodged. The Grammar School,
founded in 1675, occupies a building on the
Redhill road, near the ch. Its reputation
was not very high, but it greatly improved
under reorganization in 1862, and it was
brought under a new scheme, propounded
by the Endowed Schools Commission, in
1874. The buildings were extended and
improved in 1871.
The par. Church (St. Mary Magdalene)
stands off the road at the E. end of the
town. It is a large and noble-looking
building, of squared clunch, and com
prises nave and chancel, with aisles to
both ; S. porch ; and a fine battlemented
tower at the W. end, in which is a peal
of 6 bells. The chancel has E.E. windows,
but these were inserted when the ch. was
' restored ' and transformed in 1845 : the
fabric is in the main Perp. , though portions
of an earlier ch. have been worked up in
it. The interior is grave and imposing.
The nave aisles are separated by arcades
of 5 bays borne on alternate octagonal and
cylindrical shafts. The nave has been
heightened, received a new roof, and
had low open seats substituted for the old
pews. The reredos was discovered when
the ch. was repaired, and like it under
went restoration. S. of the chancel are
3 sedilia. Several of the windows have
painted glass. In the chancel and aisles
are some remarkable 17th and 18th cen
tury monts. ; but the most famous person
age interred here, Charles Howard Earl of
Effingham, the conqueror of the Armada,
has no memorial. In the chancel is a
mont., with effigies, of Sir Thos. Bludder
of Flanchford, and wife, d. 1618 ; the
child that lay at their feet has been
removed to an absurd position in a side
window. The monts. of the Elyot family
were removed from the chancel in 1846 —
the effigies of Robert Elyot, sen., d. 1609,
and of his wife, d. 1612, to the N. aisle ;
the kneeling figure of his daughter
Katherine, d. 1623, to a niche in the S.
aisle. The much-controverted mont. of
Edw. Bird, Esq., " who had the misfortune

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486

RICHINGS.

to kill a waiter at a bagnio by Golden
Square," and was convicted and hanged
for his trouble, July 11, 1714, with his
bust in full armour and flowing wig, has
been relegated to the belfry. The N.
aisle has a prodigious mont. of coloured
marbles, with reclining effigy of Richard
Ladbroke of Frenches (d. 1730), a zealous
member of the Church of England, in full
armour and flowing wig, and holding in
his left hand a celestial crown. On either
side are full-sized figures of Truth and
Justice ; above are angels with trumpets
and palm branches; in the centre a
resplendent sun; and over all the ar
morial bearings of the Ladbroke family.
In the ch.-yard is an obelisk to Francis
Maseres (d. 1824), Cursitor-Baron of the
Exchequer, and author of some tracts on
constitutional law and politics. Obs. the
costly sarcophagus of Mrs. Waterlow,
erected in 1874, of granite, Portland stone,
marble, and bronze, with figures of angels
andbassi-rilievi by Mr. J. Durham, A.R.A.
St. Mark's ch., Wray Park, is a spacious
cruciform structure, with a tall tower and
spire, early Dec. in style, erected in
1860. A second eccl. dist. ch., St. Luke's,
South Park, was built in 1871, of the
local stone, with Bath-stone dressings,
in the Dec. style; and comprises nave,
S. aisle, and chancel ; the N. aisle and
tower being left for erection at » future
day. In Nutley Lane is an endowed
Working Men's Ch. and Institute ; and
there are the usual chapels ; but none
of historical or architectural value.
A pleasant lane of about \ m. leads to
Reigate Park, of old "well-stored with
timber trees and replenished with deer,"
but disparked and denuded of its trees
in 1635, by its then owner, Lord Monson.
It is now an open space of about 150
acres ; short grass and broad terrace at
the top, with trees and seats beneath,
inviting to contemplate at leisure the
prospects, which are among the most
extensive in these parts, stretching away
over the broad Weald to the distant South
Downs, round by Leith Hill and the
Gomshall Heights, to the nearer Betch-
worth Clump and North Downs, — the
rough and broken slopes at your feet,
rich in ancient thorns and shining hollies,
rampant ferns and purple heath, making
vigorous foregrounds to the varying land
scapes.

Reigate Heath is another picturesque
spot, — or was, till defaced and vulgarized
by racing encroachments; and there is
a charming walk from it to Betchworth,
by Wonham Mill, or by Flanohford to
Leigh, — but for this choose fair weather.
The stranger must remember, as he
explores the Weald lanes and field-paths,
that he is entering on what has been
pronounced (though unfairly) to be in
foul weather " the dirtiest country in
England." Reigate Hill, and the downs
on the other side of the town, afford
lovely views, endless pleasant walks, and
flowers, ferns, and orchids innumerable.
Flanohford, by the Mole, on the way to
Leigh, was the seat of the Bludder, Wyche,
and Scawen familes : the mansion was
pulled down many years ago. Frenches,
the seat of the Ladbrokes, stood IJ m.
N.E. of the town. Few old mansions
remain ; but modern villas abound.
Among them are Great Doods, on the
London road (A. J. Waterlow, Esq.) ;
Woodhatch, built from the designs of
Mr. J. T. Knowles; Oakjield (Sir E.
Hornby) ; Rosenheim (Sir S. Saunders).
EICHINGS, Bucks, a house and
park so called, celebrated for the better
part of the 18th cent, in connection with
English poets and English landscape
gardening, is in Iver par. , 2 m. S. of the
vill., and 1 m. N. of Colnbrook.
The estate (in early books and docu
ments it is spelled Pickings and Riski/ngs,
while Lord Bathurst almost invariably
wrote Richkings) was purchased of the
Britton family by Sir Peter Apsley, whose
granddaughter carried it by marriage to
Sir B. Bathurst. On his death, in 1704,
Richings became the seat of his son Allan,
1st Lord Bathurst, who improved the
house and park, planted the grounds
anew, and collected about him the chief
wits and poets of the day. Lord Bathurst's
gardening became famous :
" Who plants like Bathurst — or who builds like
Boyle ? "
" I should be sorry to see my Lady Scudamore's
[Holme Lacy in Herefordshire] till it has had the
full advantage of Lord Bathurst's improvements ;
and then I will expeet something like the waters of
Riskins and the woods of Oakley [Lord Bathurst's
seat by Cirencester] together, which (without flat
tery) would be at least as good as anything in our
world."* * Pope to Hon. Robt. Digby, Aug. 12 (1724),

RICHINGS.

487

RICHINGS.

Pope was not, however, always so en
comiastic on Lord Bathurst's doings at
Richings : —
"Ia lading out a garden, the first thing to bo
considered is the genius of tbe place : thus at
Riskins, for example, Lord BathurBt should have
raised two or three mounts : because his situation
ia all a plain, and nothing oan please without
variety."* " The lata Lord Bathurst told me that he was
the first person who ventured to deviate from
straight lines, in a brook which he had widened
at Riskinga.n.t Lord Bathurst himself writes of his
grounds —
" Here I am absolute monarch of a circle of
above a mile round, at least 100 acres of ground,
which (to write in the style of one of your country
men) is very populous in cattle, fish, and fowl.
To enjoy this power, which I relish extremely, and
regulate this dominion which I prefer to ai^y
other, has taken up my time from morning to
night. There are Yahoos in the neghbourhood ;
but having read in history that the southern part
of Britain was long defended against the Picts by
a wall, I have fortified my territories all round. . .
Now I think of it, as this letter is to be sent to
you, it will certainly be opened ; and I shall have
some observations made upon it, because I am
within three miles of a certain castle " iWindsor
Castle]. {
Richings was one of the places that
dwelt in Swift's memory when he was
hankering to return to England, but could
not make up his mind to leave Leland: —
"I had lately an offer of an English living,
which is just too short by £300 a year ; and that
must be made up out of the Duchess's pin-money
before I consent. I want to be minister of Aims-
bury, Dawley, Twickenham, Riskins, and Pre
bendary of Westminster; else I will not stir a
step." §
Swift, Pope, Gay, Arbuthnot, Boling-
broke, Prior too, it is said, and Parnell,
were frequent visitors at Richings, capped
verses there, wrote inscriptions for the
gardens, and helped their host with criti
cisms and suggestions in his favourite pur
suit of improving his dominion. But as
time wore on Richings became too narrow
for Lord Bathurst's ambition, andhe turned
to Oakley as a wider field for the exercise
of that talent for landscape gardening
Letters, 4to ei, 1737, p. 196; Works, 1764, voL v.,
p. 313.
* Pope : Spence's Anecdotes, ed. by Singer, p.
12 ; and comp. Warton, .Essay on Pope, ed. 17S2,
Vol. ii., p. 179.
t Dairies Barrington, Auchawlogia, vol. vii.
i Lord Bathurst to Swift, dated Bichkings, June
30, 1730. '
S Swift to Gay and the Duchess of Queensbury,
August 12, 1732.

he here first displayed, and which after
wards made the woods and grounds of
Oakley so celebrated. He sold Richings
in 1739 to Algernon Lord Hertford, who
succeeded to the title of Duke of Somerset
in 1747. Lord Hertford changed the
name from Richings to Percy Lodge, but
he, and still more Lady Hertford, strove
hard to maintain the poetic character of
the place. Her ladyship has left an
elaborate study of Richings as it was soon
after she entered into possession : —
" We have just uow taken a house by Colnbrook.
It belonged to my Lord Bathurst, and is what
Mr. Pope calls in his ' Letters ' his extravago.v.tt
bergerie. The environs perfectly answer that title,
and come nearer to my idea of a scene in Arcadia
than any place I ever saw. The house is old but
convenient, and when you are got within the little
paddock it stands in, you would think yourself a
hundred miles from London, which I think a
great addition to its beauty. ... I cannot dis
cover who were the first builders of the place. . .
On the spot where the greenhouse now stands,
there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St.
Leonard, who was certainly esteemed a tutelar
saint of Windsor Forest and its purlieus : for the
place we left [St. Leonard's Hill] was originally
a hermitage founded in honour of him. We have
no relics of the Saint, but we have an old carved
bench with many remains of the wit of my Lord
Bathurst's visitors, who inscribed verses upon it.
Here is the writing of Addison, Pope, Prior, Con-
greve, Gay, and, what he esteemed no less, several
fine ladies. I cannot say that the verses answered
my expectations f rom such authors ; we have, how
ever, all resolved to follow the fashion, and to add
some of our own to the collection. . . . There has
been only one as yet added by the -company. ... I
scarcely know whether it is worth reading or not:
By Bathurst planted, first these shades arose,
Prior and Pope have sung beneath these boughs.
Here Addison his moral theme pursued,
And social Gay has cheered the solitude." *
The paddock she describes as "laid
out in the manner of a French park,
interspersed with woods and lawns ; "
the Abbey Walk, as " composed of pro
digiously high beeches that form an arch
through the whole length, exactly resem
bling a cloister ; " and " the canal," — the
"waters of Riskins" that Pope admired
so much — " 1200 yards long, and propor
tionately broad." Lady Hertford was of
a literary turn, delighted to have literary
men about her at Percy Lodge, and was
pleased when they praised her gardens,
and appreciated her poetry. She was
the Cleora of Mrs. Rose, the Eusebia of
Dr. Watts. Shenstone eulogized her
" rectitude of heart, delicacy of sentiment,
* Lady Hertford to Lady Pomf ret.

RICHINGS,

488

RICHMOND.

and truly classic ease and elegance of
style," and devoted to her an ' Ode on
Rural Elegance,' in which, while cele
brating her " genius graced with rank,"
he condemns " the reptile race, that
slight her merit, but adore her place," —
that place to which,
" Far happier, if aright I deem,
When from gay throngs, and gilded spires.
To where the lonely halcyons play.
Her philosophic step retires."
And Thomson, in the opening lines of Ms
Spring, addresses her as his Muse :
"O Hartford, fitted or to shine in courts
With unaffected grace, or walk the plain
With innocence and meditation join'd
In soft assemblage, listen to my song,
Which thy own Season paints ; when Nature all
Is blooming and benevolent like thee."
But he did not play the courtier as well
in person as in poetry. It was the prac
tice of the Countess, says Johnson, "to
invite every summer some poet into the
country, to hear her verses, and assist her
studies. That honour was one summer
conferred on Thomson, who took more
delight in carousing with Lord Hertford
and his friends than assisting her lady
ship's poetical operations, and therefore
never received another summons." *
The Duke of Somerset died at Percy
Lodge in 1750. His widow lived there
almost entirely. She had been used to
call it her Bergerie, she now termed it her
Hermitage. Shd died there July 7, 1754.
The estate went to her daughter Elizabeth,
Countess of Northumberland, whose hus
band sold it, when created Duke of
Northumberland, 1766, to Sir John Coghill.
Coghill's widow, the Countess Dowager
of Charleville, alienated it in 1786 to the
Rt. Hon. John Sullivan, M.P. Shortly
afterwards the house was destroyed by an
accidental fire, and Mr. Sullivan built on
a more elevated site the present more
spacious mansion, » formal but stately
building of 3 floors, with central portico,
and wings — and resumed the name of
Richings. A later Sullivan sold the estate
to Mr. Meeking, and Pickings Park is
now the seat of C. Meeking, Esq. The
grounds have been greatly altered and
extended, retain few traces of Bathurst
or Hertford influence, and reach nearly to
Colnbrook. The entrance gates to the
w Johnson, Life of Thomson : Lives of tha
Poets, vol. iii., p. 228, ed. 1821.

private road are at the E. end of that
town. EICHMOND, Sukrey, one of the
most beautiful and celebrated places in
England, lies on the Thames, 8i m. W.
of Hyde Park Corner. It is on the L. and
S.W. Rly., but it can also be reached from
the Broad Street, Moorgate Street, and
Ludgate Hill stats., the N. London, L.
and N.W., Midland, and L., C, and D.
Rlys. having access to it over a portion
of the L. and S.W. line. Pop. 15,113.
Inns : the Star and Garter on the Hill,
and the Castle by the river, are among
the most famous of English hotels ; the
Qtteen's, opposite the Star and Gaiter, is
a first-class family hotel ; the Roebuck,
by the Terrace, an excellent house for a
dinner ; the Talbot, High Street, and the
Greyhound, George Street, may also be
commended. Richmond is not mentioned in Domes*
day; it was probably then a waste, and
included in the .manor of Kingston. It
first occurs as Syenes ; afterwards as
Schenes, Scheme, and Sheen, by which
name it was known till about 1500, when
it was called Richmond by command of
Henry VII., who before the battle of Bos-
worth was Earl of Richmond in Yorkshire.
The name Syenes, Sheen, is assumed to be
the A.-S. Seine (= Germ. Sch'6%), splen-
dour, beauty, and to have been applied on
account of the charm of the place, or, as
Leland and Camden thought, from the
magnificence of the royal palace. But
the name was in use before any palace
existed ; and in the 1 1th century a waste
was little likely to be regarded as pleasant
or beautiful.
In the reign of John, Michael Belet held
Sheen by the service of being the King's
butler, in succession to an ancestor to,
whom Henry I. had granted the manor and
office. Belet left a daughter, who probably
died early, as in 1230 the manor was held by
her uncle, John Belet. He dying, left two
daughters, between whom the manor was
divided. One moiety went to John de
Valletort, who married Alicia Belet ; the
other to Jordan Oliver, who married her.
sister Emma. Oliver's share was alienated
to Gilbert Earl of Gloucester, and early
in the reign of Edward I. purchased by,
Robert Burnell, Bp. of Bath and Wells.
In 129a, Philip Burnell, the Bp.'s nephew,

RICHMOND.

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RICHMOND.

and John de Valletort, held each a moiety
of the manor by the serjeanty of pro
viding two silver cups at the King's coro
nation. The mqnor must shortly after have
reverted to the Crown , as Edward I. kept
house at Sheen in 1300, and the following
year received the Scutch Commissioners
'• at his manor of Sheene upon Thames."*
The manor has ever since been held by
the Crown, though grants for life have
been made to the wife of the sovereign or
some member of the royal family ; and
occasionally leases of it have been granted
to subjects. It is now held by the Queen.
The custom of Borough English prevails :
lands in the manor descending to the
youngest son ; or in default of sons to
the youngest daughter.
Edward I., as we have seen, had a house
at Sheen. Edward III. is said to have
rebuilt the palace ; and in it, attended only
by a solitary priest, he died, June 21, 1377.
Richard II. resided here in the early years
of his reign; and here, in 1394, his first
wife, Anne of Bohemia, died ; whereupon,
according to Holinshed, he cursed the
place where she died, and " caused it to
be thrown down and defaced; whereas
the former kings of this land, being weary
of the city, used customarily thither to
resort, as to a place of pleasure, and
serving highly to their recreation." It
lay neglected till the beginning of the
reign of Henry V., who liking the place,
rebuilt the palace, and founded " three
houses of religion, fast be his place which
thei clepe Schene. — on of the monkis of
Chartir-hous ; another clepid Celestines :
thei kept Seint reule ad litcram, as thei
sey ; thei are constreyned for to be re
cluses for evyr. The thirde is of the Seynt
Bride ordir." Henry's mansion was " of
curious and costly workmanship, befitting
the character and condition of a king." f
Edward IV. in 1465 granted the manor
to his queen, Elizabeth Woodville, for
life ; but Henry VII., shortly after his
marriage with her daughter Elizabeth,
deprived the Queen Dowager of this with
her other possessions, and secluded her in
the nunnery at Bermondsey, where she
* Ordinances for Govt, of Royal Households :
Account of Money paid at the Court at Sheen,
28 Edw. I., pubd. by Society of Antiquaries, p. 71.
Matthew of Westminster, etc.
t Capgrave, Chronicle of England ; Book of the
Illustrious Henries ; Elmham, Life of Henry V.

died shortly after. Henry was much at
Sheen, where he kept great state. In
1492 he held a grand tournament, which
lasted throughout May, sometimes within
the palace, and " sometime without, upon
the Greene without the Gate of the said
mannor. In the which space a combat
was holden and doone betwyxt Sir James
Parkar, knt., and Hugh Vaughan, Gentle
man Usher, upon controvcrsie for the
arms that Gartar gave to the sayde Hugh
Vaughan : but he was there allowed by
the King to beare them, and Sir James
Parkyr was slain at the first course." *
Whilst Henry was staying in the palace
in Dec. 1498, a fire occurred, which de
stroyed the greater part of the old build
ing, and consumed much costly furniture,
plate, and jewellery — the acquisition of
jewels being a passion with the otherwise
frugal King. The King at once gave
orders for rebuilding the palace, and when
in 1501 it was sufficiently advanced to be
habitable, he directed that it should in
future be named Richmond, from his for
mer earldom. In January 1507, another
fire broke out in the King's chamber, and
caused great damage. His new palace
nearly proved fatal to the King. In
July 1507, a new gallery, in which the
King had been walking with the prince
his son a few minutes before, suddenly
fell down, happily without injury to any
one.f Philip I., King of Castile, was
with his sister Margaret driven on the
English coast in a storm, January 1506,
and detained by Henry for three months
pending negotiations for his marriage with
the lady Margaret. Philip, after having
visited Windsor Castle and London, was
entertained with great magnificence in
Richmond Palace, " where were many
notable feates of armes proved both at
the tylt and at the tourney and at the
barriers. "J Henry VII. died at Richmond
Palace, April 21, 1509.
Henry VIII. was here in Nov. 1510, and
commenced the series of splendid enter*
tainments which formed so marked a fea
ture of the early years of his reign.
" His Grace . . . willed to. be declared to all
* Stow, Annals, Anno 1492.
t Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iii. p. 62, says that
Prince Arthur was walking with his father in the
gallery. Prince Arthur died in 1502 : it must of
course have been Prince Henry.
t Hall, Chronicle, p. 501.

RICHMOND.

490

RICHMOND.

noblemen and gentelmen, that his grace with two
aides, that is to wit mayster Charles Brandon and
mayster Compton, duryng two dayes would answer
all commers, with spere at the tylt one day, and at
turney with swordes the other. And to accomplishe
this enterprice the xiii daye of November, hys
grace armed at all peces with his twoo aydes entred
the fielde, their bases and trappers were of clothe
of golde, sette with redde roses, ingreyled with gold
of brouderye. The counter parte came in freshly,
appareyled every man after his devise. At these
Justos the king brake more staves then any other,
and therefore had the pryce. At the Turney in
likewyse, the honour was his."*
Henry kept his Christmas at Richmond,
and entertained a number of distinguished
foreign visitors right royally. On New
Tear's Day the Queen gave birth to a son,
"to the great gladnes of the realme ; " but
the young prince died at his birthplace on
the 22nd of February following. Henry
after this does not seem to have made Rich
mond a frequent residence. The emperor
Charles V., on his visit to England in
1522, was lodged for a night in Richmond
Palace. In the same year the King
granted a lease for 30 years of the manor
of Sheen, and the office for life of keeper
of Richmond Park and Palace, to Massey
ViUard and Thomas Brampton. But the
royal rights must have been reserved or
the grant resumed, as when Wolsey in
1526 presented his newly-erected palace
of Hampton Court to the King, Henry
" of his gentle nature," as Hall relates,
gave the Cardinal permission to reside at
Richmond at bis pleasure : and so, con
tinues the chronicler, " he laie there at
certain tymes. But when the common
people, and in especiall such as had been
King Henry the seventhes servauntes,
sawe the Cardinal kepe house in the
manor royall of Richmond, whieh King
Henry VII. so highly esteemed, it was a
marvell to here how thei grudged and
said, See a Bocher's dogge lye in the
Manor of Richemond ! " f In July of the
same year Wolsey received at Rich
mond the French Commissioners sent to
negotiate a peace with England. The
winter following there was plague with
" great death " in London, and the King
in consequence kept his Christmas at
Eltham in such strict retirement that it
was called " the still Christmas."
"But the Cardinall in this season, laye at the
Manor o'f Richmond, and there kept open house-
* Hall, Chronicle, p. 516.
t Ibid., p. 703.

holde, to lordes, ladies, and all other that would
come, with plaies and disguisyng in most royall
maner : which sore graved the people, and in
especial the kynges servauntes, to see hym kepe
an open Court, and the kyng a secret Court." *
The manor of Richmond was in 1541
granted by Henry to his divorced wife
Anne of Cleves, so long as she should re
side in this country ; but was resigned by
her to Edward VI. in 1548.
On the 3rd of June, 1550, Edward VI.
was present at the marriage, in Richmond
Palace, of the Lord Lisle with Anne,
daughter of the Protector Somerset, and
on the following day at that of Sir
Robert Dudley (later Earl of Leicester
and favourite of Queen Elizabeth) with
Amy, daughter of Sir John Robsart;
" after which marriage," as the King re
cords in his diary, " certain gentlemen-
did strive who should first take away a
goose's head, which was hanged alive
between two cross posts." Later in the
year the King came here on account of
the outbreak of the sweating sickness in
London :
" July 13. — Came this day to Richmond, where
I lay with a great band of gentlemen — at least 400,
as it was by divers esteemed."
Queen Mary and Philip of Spain stayed
here shortly after their marriage, and
the Queen was here several times sub
sequently. The Princess Elizabeth was
detained here in the interval between her
release from the Tower and her removal
to Woodstock. When Queen, she waa
often at Richmond, leading here, as would
seem, a life of less state than in most of
her other palaces ; and even in her later
years, as one of the gentlemen of the
privy chamber at Richmond writes, "I
assure you, six or seven gallyards of a
mornynge, besydes musyoke and syngynge,
is her ordinary exercyse."t Here, six
years later, Anthony Rudd, Bp. of St.
David's, greatly offended the Queen by
preaching before her a sermon on the in
firmities of age, and in it reminding her
that " age had furrowed her face and he-
sprinkled her hair with its meal." Here,
according to a local tradition, in a small
room, still remaining, over the entrance
gateway, the Countess of Nottingham on
her death-bed confessed to the Queen
* Hall, p. 707.
t John Stanhope to Lord Talbot, Dec. 22, 1580,
Lodge's Illustrations of History, vol. ii., p. 411.

RICHMOND.

491

RICHMOND.

that she had kept back the ring which the
Earl of Essex sent to her after he had
been condemned to death. Whether the
incident really occurred or not, it is at
least certain it did not occur here, as the
Countess died at Arundel House, London.
It was at Richmond Palace that Elizabeth
herself died, March 24, 1602 ; and an
other version of the former tradition as
signs the room over the gateway as that
in which she died : it is hardly necessary
to say that the site and a glance at the
dimensions of the room are enough to
refute the tradition.
James I., in 1610, settled Richmond on
his son Prince Henry, who spent large
sums in repairing and embellishing the
palace, employing Solomon de Caus as
his architect.* The prince " kept house "
at Richmond in 1612. On his death the
grant was transferred to his brother, who
as Charles I. settled the manor on his
wife, Henrietta Maria, as her dower.
Charles made the palace an occasional
residence, formed in it a collection of
pictures, and is said to have contemplated
rebuilding it. In 1636 a masque was per
formed before the King and Queen by
Lord Buckhurst and Edward Sackville.
The young prince, afterwards Charles IL,
was educated at Richmond Palace, under
Bp. Duppa. In 1647 the Parliament
directed the palace to be made ready for
the reception of the King. Charles refused
to go there ; but he went to Richmond in
the August of that year to hunt in the
new park, along with the Prince Elector,
the Duke of York, and his attendant lords.
Two years later a survey was made of
Richmond Palace, by order of the House
of Commons, when the materials were
valued at £10,782. The palace was sold
to Thomas Rookesby and others, and was
afterwards purchased by Sir Gregory
Norton, one of the King's judges, who
probably resided in it, as on his death, in
May 1652, he was buried at Richmond.
After the return of Charles IL, the
palace appears to have been dismantled.
Several boat-loads of "rich and curious
effigies, formerly belonging to Charles I.,
but since alienated," were taken from
Richmond to Whitehall in 1660; and
Fuller, writing about the, same time of
A- 
* The Accounts of the Expenses are printed in
vol. xvii. of the Archseologia.

Richmond Palace, says it is " a building
much beholden to Mr. Speed's represent
ing it in his map of this county : other
wise (being now plucked down) the form
and fashion thereof had for the future
been forgotten."* But though dismantled
and perhaps in part plucked down, por
tions of it were left in a sufficiently per
fect state for occupation.
" 22d July, 1663. — In discourse of tbe ladies at
Court, Captain Ferrers tells me that my Lady
Castlemaine is now as great again as ever Bhe was ;
and that her going away was only a fit of her own
upon Borne slighting words of the King, bo that she
called for her coach at a quarter of an hour's
warning, and went to Richmond; and the King
the next morning, under pretence of going a-
hunting, went to see her and make friends, and
never was a-hunting at all.. After which she came
back to Court, and commands the King as much
as ever, and hath and doth what she will." t
The Queen Dowager used the palace as
an occasional residence till 1665. In 1666
Edward Villiers was appointed keeper of
the manor and palace. In the reign of
James II. it was held by the Crown, and
the house was used for the nursery of the
prince, afterwards known as the Pre
tender. The Princess (afterwards Queen)
Anne is said to have applied unsuccess
fully to William III. for the use of Rich
mond Palace, to which she was attached
from having lived in it in her childhood.
Strype, in 1720, speaks of the palace as
" now decayed and parcelled out in tene
ments." Several houses had in fact been
erected on the site under leases from the
Crown, little except the offices of the old
building being at this time left.
George II. granted Richmond to his
consort Queen Caroline, " as he had done,"
writes Lord Hervey, " several sets of
houses, which he used as much as she,
that her Majesty, having the nominal pro
perty of them, might be at the expense of
keeping them." J
In 1770, the manor, the palace and park
excepted, was granted to Charlotte, con
sort of George III.
Richmond Palace stood just outside
the town, N.W. of Hill Street, between the
Green and the Thames. A view of the
principal or river front engraved in the
' Monumenta Vetusta ' of the Society of
* Exact Account, June 8—15, 1660, quoted by
Lysons ; Fuller, Worthies of England, Surrey, vol.
iii., p. 202.
t Pepys. Diary.
% Lord Hervey, Memoirs, vol. ii., p. 39.

RICHMOND.

492

RICHMOND.

Antiquaries, from a picture belonging to
Lord Cardigan, shows it to have been »
large and magnificent building of three
floors, with numerous bays and turrets,
rising well above the main structure, and
crowned with bulbous cupolas, of which
thirteen are shown in the view. The Par
liamentary Survey describes it as
"AU that capital messuage, palace, or Court
house, commonly called Richmond Court, consist
ing of one large and fair structure of free-stone of
two storeys high, covered with lead . . . and
battayled, and hath upon it 14 turrets, all covered
with lead, standing a convenient height above the
said leads ; which, turrets very much adorn and
set forth the fabric of the whole structure, and
are a very graceful ornament unto the whole house,
being perspicuous to the country round about."
On the first floor was the Great Hall, a " fayr and
large room 100 ft. in length and 40 in breadth,"
with ' ' a screen in the lower end therof , over which
is a little gallery, and a fayr foot-pace (dais) in
the higher end thereof ; the pavement is a square
tile, and it is very well lighted and seeled, and
adorned with eleven statueB in the sides thereof ;
in the midst a brick hearth for a charcoal fire,
having a large lanthom in the roof of the hall
fitted for that purpose, turreted and covered with
lead." At the N. end of the Great Hall was a
turret, " which, together with the lanthom
in the middle thereof, are a, special orna
ment unto that building."
The rest of the building is described with
equal minuteness. There are the Great Buttery,
the Buttery Chamber, the Silver Scullery, the
Saucery, and the like on the ground floor. The
Privy Lodgings consist of " a very large free-stone
building, of curious workmanship, 3 storeys high,"
with 12 rooms on every storey, including the Robe
Rooms, 4 rooms belonging to the Master of the Horse,
3 to the Groom of the Stole ; the Lobby, Guard
Chamber, Presence Chamber, Privy Closet, Privy
Chamber, bed-chambers, pages rooms, and the
like. In the midst is a paved court " of 24 ft.
broad and 40 ft. long, which renders all the rooms
thereof, that lye inwards, to be very light and
pleasant." A " round structure of free-stone,
called the Canted Tower, 4 storeys high ... is a
chief ornament unto the whole fa brick of Rich
mond Court. " A fair and large structure 3 storeys
high, "called the Chapel Building," contains on
the third storey a "fayr and large room, 90 ft.
long and 30 ft. broad, used for a chapel. This
room is very well fitted with all things useful for
a chapel ; as fair lights, handsome cathedral seats
and pewes, a rdmovable pulpit, and a fayr case of
carved work for a payr of organs." Other " piles
of buildings or structures of stone," — the Queen's
Closet, the Prince's Closet, the Passage Buildings,
and ' ' one other structure of stone two storeys
high, called the Middle Gate," — with the Great
Hall and Chapel Buildings, surround " a fayr
court, paved with free-stone, 67 ft. long and 66 ft.
broad, in which court stands one very large fountain
of lead."
Beyond these State or Great Hall Buildings
was another block, the Wardrobe Offices, of " three

fayr ranges of buildings," two storeys high and
embattled, lying round a great paved court 198
ft. long and 180. wide, and containing many con
venient rooms appropriated to the higher court
officials and court offices. Adjoining this, and
lying along the N. Bide of the Privy Garden
and facing Richmond Green, was another range
of brick buildings, embattled and " adorned with
divers pinnacles," and containing the Tennis
Court, togeth er with divers choice rooms both below
stairs and above. From this again extended the
whole S.E. side of the privy garden, a close or
privy gallery, 200 yards in length, partly of brick
and partly of wood, open below stairs, and closed
and floored with plaster of Paris above, "very
pleasant and useful to the whole house." Outside
the gallery was a building " called the Fryars,"
no doubt the Priory of Observant Friars founded
here by Henry VII. : it was at this time degraded
to "a chandler's shop." Beyond were kitchens,
flesh, fish, and pastry larders, and all other offices,
"part of brick and part of wood tyled," standing
" about a little court near adjoining to the river
side." About another small court are the Poultry-
house, Woody ard-lodging, Ale-butteries, an Ail-
mery-room, Scalding-room, etc. Then farther away,
and partly by the river and partly on Richmond
Green, are the Plummery, Armory, Offices of the
Clerk of the Works, and a great many more.
In all, Richmond Palace covered an
area of very nearly 10^ acres. It was
earlier, it will be remembered, than the
oldest part of Hampton Court; but an
examination of Wolsey's building would
render clear the general plan of Richmond
Palace. Little is left of the building now.
On the W. side of the Green is the en
trance gateway of the Wardrobe Court
(now called Old Palace Yard), a rude
stone building, above the arch of which is
an escutcheon with the arms and sup
porters of Henry VII., defaced, and the
red dragon of Cadwallader and white
greyhound of the house of York, scarcely
decipherable. Within the gateway is a
building of red brick and stone dressings,
having a turret and battlements, now'
used as a dwelling. All else has long
been razed, and the site for the most part
covered with residences, some towards
the river, villas of considerable size, and
by the Green, the old-fashioned rows
known as Maid of Honour Row and Old
Palace Terrace.
The Green was an important append
age to the palace. On it, as we have seen,
the tournaments and royal festivities were
held. The Paliamentary Commissioners .
described it as containing " 20 acres more
or less . . . well turfed, level, and a
special ornament to the place." It had
"113 elm trees, 48 whereof stand alto
gether on the W. side, and include in

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RICHMOND.

them a very handsome walk." This was
the High Walk of recent times ; the elms
have sadly diminished in number, but of
late fresh trees have been planted. Rich
mond Green was a favourite resort in
Richmond's fashionable season, a century
and a quarter ago.
"To-day, as I passed over Riohmond Green, I
Baw Lord Bath, Lord Lonsdale, and half a dozen
more of the White's Club sauntering at the door of
a house they have taken there, and oome to eveiy
Saturday and Sunday to play at whist. You will
naturally ask why they cannot play at whist in
London on these two days as well as on the other
five ; indeed I can't tell you, except that it is so
established a fashion to go out of town at the end
of the week, that people do go, though it be only
into another town. It made me smile to see Lord
Bath sitting there, like a oitizen that has left off
trade I " *
A park had been attached to the palace
from the earliest mention of a royal
dwelling at Richmond. This was the
present Old Park, or Little Park, so
called to distinguish it from the New or
Great Park (the Richmond Park of our
day) on the opposite side of the town.
The Old Park extends northwards from
the palace and the Green towards Kew,
with the Thames as its western boundary.
In the Parliamentary Survey it is de
scribed as impaled, and " contayning upon
admeasurement, 349 acres, 1 rood, and 10
perches of land." A recent official return
makes it 357-2 acres. Wolsey in his fallen
state, when broken in health he petitioned
to be allowed to remove to a healthier site
than Esher, was commanded to repair to
the Lodge in Richmond Old Park, where
heremained from " shortly after Christmas
until it was Lent with a privy number of
servants, because of the smallness of the
house." When Lent came round he re
moved to a lodging built by Dean Colet
in the neighbouring priory of West Sheen,
where he spent the season "in godly
contemplation." f
A lease of this Lodge was granted by
William III. in 169-4 to John Latton. In
1704 Queen Anne granted a lease of it for
99 years to James Duke of Ormond, who
pulled it down, and built a larger lodge
on the site, which he made his residence ;
and where, as Lord Stanhope has re
corded, after the death of Anne he

* Horace Walpole to Sir H. Mann, June 4, 1749 ;
Letters, vol. ii., p. 164.
t Cavendish, life of Wolsey, vol. i., p. 237.

collected the Jacobites about him, " held
a sort of Opposition Court," and " by the
magnificence of his mode of living, and
the public levees which he held, seemed
to be arrogantly vying with Royalty
itself." * A few months later he was
impeached by the House of Commons,
when he lost heart, gave up all his mighty
projects, and escaped as quickly as he
could from Richmond Lodge to France,
where he spent the remainder of his days.
The lease of the Duke's house was sold
by auction, June 10, 1719, before the
Commissioners of Forfeited Estates, and
bought by the Prince of Wales (after
wards George II.) for £6000. The Prince
made the lodge his summer residence, and
frequently stayed in it after he ascended
the throne.
"The late Duke of Ormond in Queen Anne's
reign was ranger and keeper of Richmond Park,
and his Lodge a perfect Trianon ; but since his
forfeiture it hath been sold to the Prince of Wales,
who makes bis summer residence here. It does
not appear with the grandeur of a Royal Palace,
but it is very neat and pretty. There is a fine
avenue that runs from the front of the house to
the town of Richmond at half a mile distance one
way, and from the other front to the river side,
both enclosed with balustrades of iron." t
Caroline, wife of George II., was greatly
attached to Richmond. The Lodge was
her favourite abode, and the park and the
gardens occupied no small share of her
care. She employed Bridgman to lay out
the gardens on a larger scale, and to
embellish them with more costly build
ings than had been previously seen in
England. The works excited much ad
miration, and were duly praised by loyal
bards, and mocked by the wits in opposi
tion. Chief among the rarities were the
Hermitage, Merlin's Cave, the Grotto, the
Dairy, and a Menagerie. Her Hermitage
the Queen placed in the midst of a solemn
grove, adorned the exterior with a ruined
pediment, turret and bell, and the interior
with busts of Newton, Locke, Woolaston,
and Clerke, with Robert Boyle as the
presiding genius, his head encircled with
a halo of gilded rays. Merlin's Cave was
more elaborate. It was a " Gothic build
ing," roofed with thatch, and placed in a
" labyrinth full of intricate mazes." The
* Earl Stanhope, Hist, of England, chap, iv.,
vol. i., p. 122.
t De Foe, A Journey through England, Svo,
1722, vol. i., p. 68 ; King's Anecdotes, p. 7.

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494

RICHMOND.

interior was circular ; four wooden pillars
supported the roof ; in recesses were wax
models by Mrs. Salmon, of Fleet Street
(the Mdme. Tussaud of that day), of Merlin
and his secretary, the Queen of Henry
VII., Minerva, Queen Elizabeth and her
nurse, the Queen of the Amazons, and
other equally veracious effigies. At op
posite ends of the room were collections
of books, and Stephen Duck, the thresher
poet, was constituted keeper and librarian.
" Lord ! how we strut through Merlin's Cave, to
see
No poets there, but, Stephen, you and me." *
" How shall we fill a library with wit,
When Merlin's Cave is half unfurnished yet. "I
"Lewis the living learned fed,
And rais'd the scientific head :
Our frugal Queen to save her meat,
Exalts the heads that cannot eat." J
" Whilst Lord Hervey was going on with a par
ticular detail and encomium on these gates, [to
Henry VII.'s Chapel] the Queen asking many
questions about them, and seeming extremely
pleased with the description — the King stopped
the conversation by saying, ' My Lord, you are
always putting some of these fine things in the
Queen's head, and then I am to be plagued with a
thousand plans and workmen.' Then turning to
the Queen, he said, ' I suppose I shall see a pair
of these gates to Merlin's Cave to complete your
nonsense there.' The Queen smiled and Baid Mer-
lin'sCavewas complete already; a nd Lord H ervey,
to remove the King's fears of his expense, said
that it was a sort of work that if his Majesty would
give all the money in his exchequer he could not
have now. ' Apropos,' said the Queen, ' I hear
the Craftsman has abused Merlin's Cave.' 'I am
very glad of it,' interrupted the King, ' you deserve
to be abused for such childish silly stuff, and it is
the first time I ever knew the scoundrel in the
right. '"§
In the early part of his reign George
III. lived in Richmond Lodge, and in
1760 settled it on Queen Charlotte in case
of her surviving him. George III. is
said to have hated his grandmother, and he
certainly showed little sympathy with her
favourite works in the Old Park. By his
command Capability Brown swept away
all Queen Caroline's buildings, destroyed

* Pope, 1 1 u it. of Horace, Book ii., Ep. 2.
t Ibid., Bookii., Ep. 1.
J Swift, On Queen Caroline's Hermitage. Earlier,
when George II. became king, Swift had written,
in a very different strain, ' A Pastoral Dialogue
between Richmond Lodge and Marble Hill,' to be
" carried to Court and read to the K. and Q.,"
though he goon after gave vent to his satirical
temper in ' A Scribbling Epigram on Stephen Duck
tha Thresher and favourite Poet,' in which the
Queen and the poet were alike rudely handled.
§ Lord Hervey, Memoirs, vol. ii., p. 49,

the Terrace she had constructed along the
river — the finest it was said in Europe, —
broke the avenues, and uprooted the
trimmed hedges, so that not a trace now
remains of any of her doings.
" See untutor'd Brown
Destroys those wonders that were once thy own.
Lo ! from his melon ground the peasant slave
Has rudely rush'd and level'd Merlin's Cave,
Knock'd down the waxen Wizard, seized his wand,
Transform 'd to lawns what once was fairy land ;
And marr'd, with impious hand, each sweet design
Of Stephen Duck and good Queen Caroline." *
George III. converted the park into a
grazing farm, built a model farm-house
at the Green end, destroyed the road
which separated the park from the plea
sure grounds of Kew, and laid the two
together. (See Kew Gardens.) About
1760 he pulled down Richmond Lodge,
with a view to the erection of a palace
on the site ; but though the plans were
prepared, and the foundations laid, the
building was carried no farther.
Richmond Lodge stood not far from the
Observatory, erected for George III., in
1768, by Sir Wm. Chambers, and now
appropriated to the British Association
for carrying on regular Meteorological
observations and investigations, as noticed
under Kew Gardens. A few years after
the destruction of Richmond Lodge, the
hamlet of West Sheen, which stood about
\ m. N.W. of Richmond Palace, with what
remained of West Sheen Priory, was re
moved, and the ground added to the
park. (See Sheen, West.)
Richmond Park.- — The New Park, as
what is now known as Richmond Park was
called in order to distinguish it from the
already existing park attached to the
palace, was formed by Charles I. in the
early years of his reign, out of what was
for the most part waste and wood land,
on the S.E. of the town and hill. The
King, who as Clarendon explains, "was
excessively affected to hunting and the
sports of the field, had a great desire to
make a great park for red as well as
fallow deer, between Richmond and
Hampton Court, where he had large.
wastes of his own and great parcels of
wood, which made it very fit for the use
he designed it to." Intermingled with
these wastes were however many houses
* Mason, Heroic Epistle to Sir William. Cham
bers.

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495

RICHMOND.

and farms whose owners and tenants
" obstinately refused " to part with them,
and as the King was bent on obtaining
them, and went on building the wall
before they had consented to part with
the land, " it made a great noise." Laud,
then Bp. of London and Lord Treasurer,
and Lord Cottington, the Chancellor,
endeavoured to divert the King from his
purpose, the former because by these mea
sures the King's honour and justice were
so much called in question ; the latter
" because the purchase of the land and
the making a brick -wall about so large
a parcel of ground (for it is near ten miles
about) would cost a greater sum of money
than they could easily provide, or than
they thought ought to be sacrificed for
such an occasion. " * The King had his
way ¦; the wall was completed, and the
Earl of Portland appointed first keeper
of the New Park in 1637. In 1649 the
House of Commons resolved that the New
Park at Richmond should be given in
perpetuity to the City of London, to be
preserved as a park and so remain, as
an ornament to the City, and a mark of
the favour of Parliament. Later there
was a proposal to exchange Richmond
for Greenwich Park, but it was not
carried out, and at the Restoration of
Charles II. the Corporation hastened to
return the park to His Majesty, with the
assurance that they had always held it
for Mm as trustees. Charles made Sir
Daniel Harvey ranger. Anne, on ascend
ing the throne, gave the post to the Earl
of Rochester for three lives. After his
death, George I. purchased the grant, and
appointed Lord Walpole nominally, but
actually his father the Minister, to the
rangership. " The Park had run to great decay under the
Hydes, nor was there any mansion, better than
the common lodges of the -keepers. The King or
dered a stone lodge, designed by Henry, Earl of
Pembroke, to be erected for himself, but merely
as a banqueting-house, with a large eating-room,
kitchen, and necessary offices, where he might dine
after his sport. Sir Robert began another of brick
for himself and the under-ranger, which, by de
grees, he much enlarged ; usually retiring thither
from business, or rather, as he said himself, to do
more business than he could in town, on Saturdays
and Sundays. On that edifice, on the thatched
house, and other improvements, he laid out £14,000
of his own money. In the mean time he hired a
* Clarendon, Hist, of the Great Rebellion, vol. i.,
p. 100.

small house for himself on the Hill without the
Park ,- and in that small tenoment tho King did
him tho honour of dining with him more than onoe
after shooting. His Majesty, fond of private
joviality, was pleased with punch after dinner and
indulged in it freely." "
' ' During the last years of the late King's life, he
took extremely to New Park, and loved to shoot
there, and dined with my father and a private
party and a good deal of punch. The Duchess of
Kendal, who hated Sir Robert andf avoured Boling-
broke, and was jealous for herself, grew uneasy at
these parties and used to put one or two of the
Germans upon the King to prevent his drinking
(very odd preventives !) — however they obeyed
orders so well, that one day the King flew into a
great passion and reprimanded them in his own
language with extreme warmth ; and when he
went to Hanover ordered my father to have the
New Lodge in the park finished against hiB
return." t
On the death of the 2nd Earl of Orford in
1751, the Princess Amelia was appointed
ranger, and soon contrived to arouse
general dissatisfaction and opposition by
arbitrarily closing the park-gates against
all but the few to whom she granted
tickets. The inhabitants petitioned and
remonstrated in vain, when a Mr. John
Lewis, a brewer of Richmond, formally
claimed admittance, and on refusal ap
pealed to the law. In the first suit as to
the passage of carriages, the Princess was
successful ; but in a second action, tried
before Sir Michael Foster in April 1768,
judgment was given fully establishing the
right of ingress to the park, and of footway
through it ; and in a subsequent session,
the Princess having evaded compliance
with the judgment, the judge issued
peremptory orders for the erection of .
step-ladders, and directed Mr. Lewis to
see that they were " so constructed that
not only children and old men, but old
women too may get up ! " The Princess
was so incensed at the decision that
according to Walpole " she abandoned
the park." Lewis was regarded as the
village Hampden, acquired unbounded
popularity, and his portrait, with an
inscription beneath it, setting forth that
by his " steady perseverance . . . the
right to a free passage through Richmond
Park was recovered and established,"
was an ordinary ornament in Richmond
dwellings, and may still be occasionally
seen. Lewis in his last years became

* Horace Walpole, Reminiscences, p. xcvi.
t Horace Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, Dec. 1,
1754.

RICHMOND.

496

RICHMOND.

reduced in circumstances, and was main
tained by the proceeds of a, subscription
of the inhabitants of Richmond. Feeling
her unpopularity, the Princess willingly
accepted the offer of George III. shortly-
after his accession to purchase the ranger-
ship, in order to bestow it, 1761, on the
Earl of Bute, who retained the office and
resided in the White Lodge till his death
in 1792. The King then took the ranger-
ship into his own keeping, appointing the
Gountess of Mansfield deputy ranger.
When Addington, afterwards Viscount
Sidmouth, accepted the premiership on
the resignation of Pitt, in 1801, the King
gave him the White Lodge as a residence.
The King lived at this time in the Queen's
Lodge at Kew, and he marked the interest
he took in Addington by adding 5 acres
to the private grounds, and riding over
almost daily that he might himself super
intend the repairs and alterations, and
direct the laying out of the grounds. Mr.
Jesse says that the King with his own
hands marked out a space of about 60
acres for enclosure, but the more prudent
minister begged to have the smaller
quantity.* Lord Sidmouth occupied the
White Lodge (or Villa Medici, as
Canning named it in allusion to Adding-
ton's cognomen of The Doctor) for 43
years. Before his marriage, the White Lodge
was a residence of H.R.H. the Prince of
Wales. It is now occupied by the Duke
of Teck and Princess Mary. The White
Lodge stands at the end of the Queen's
Avenue, which faces you on entering the
Park from Richmond Hill, and a short
distance E. of the smaller of the two Pen
Ponds. The old Lodge, built by Walpole,
stood a little way S. of White Lodge : it
was taken down in 1841. Two fine old
oaks, which stood on the lawn before it,
mark the site.
Pembroke Lodge, originally Hill Lodge
— it derived its present name from having
been for many years the residence of the
Countess of Pembroke — stands at the end
of the New Terrace on the rt. after entering
the park from the hill. After the death of
the Countess, Pembroke Lodge became
the residence of the Earl and Countess of
Errol. Since 1847 it has been the sum-
* Memoirs of George III., vol. iii., p. 283 ; Pellew
Life of Viscount Sidmouth, vol. i., p. 408.

mer residence of Earl Russell. The house
is plain and unassuming ; the site charm
ing ; the grounds, though confined, are
very beautiful, and command the best
views in the park.
"Riohmond Park is very large and encompassed
with a brick wall. In the middle of this park is
a little artificial hill, called King Henry's Mount ;
from whence one hath a full prospect of six coun
ties, with the City of London at nine "miles distance
and Windsor Caatle at fourteen." *
King Henry's Mount is within the
grounds of Pembroke Lodge, far from
the middle of the park, and now too much
encompassed with trees to allow of any
thing like the range of view De Foe
mentions. The local tradition respecting
the origin of the name is that Henry VIII,
stood on this mound to watch the ascent
of a rocket which was to announce to him
the execution of Anne Boleyn I The mound
now known as Oliver's Mount, from a tra
dition that the Protector had a camp there,
commands a much better view London-
wards than King Henry's Mount. From
it St. Paul's, the Houses of Parliament,
and the sister hills of Highgate, Hamp-
stead, and Harrow are still visible.
Windsor Castle, which used to be seen, is
shut out by recent plantations. Some
labourers digging gravel by this mound,
in Dec. 1834, found the skeletons of three
persons laid side by side, about three feet
from the surface.f
Thatched Lodge, at the S.W. end of the
park, near Kingston Gate, formerly in
the occupation of Sir Charles Stuart, K.B.,
and afterwards of Major-General Sir
Edward Bowater, is now the residence
of Lady Bowater. At* the opposite edge
of the park is Sheen Lodge, since 1862 the
residence of Richard Owen, the eminent
anatomist and paleontologist. The garden
is noted for possessing some rare foreign
trees ; the pond in front is well stored
with carp. The Farm House was for
many years the residence of Edward
Jesse, when Deputy Surveyor of the
Parks, who has given many interesting
particulars respecting the natural history
of Richmond Park in his pleasant ' Glean
ings in Natural History.'
The Park has an area of 2015-5 acres,
according to a recent Ordnance Survey
* De Foe, A Journey through England. 1722,
vol. i., p. 68. '
t Brayley, Hist of Surrey, vol. iii,, p. 73,

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RICHMOND.

estimate, but 2253 according to the old
Department return, and is, next to Wind
sor, the largest round London. It far
exceeds in extent the combined areas of
Hyde Park, St. James's Park, the Green
Park, Kensington Gardens, Regent's Park,
Greenwich Park, Battersea Park, South
wark Park, Victoria Park, and Finsbury
Park, and is about equal if the new West
Ham Park be added to them. Plantations
skirt the park on all sides but the E. The
substratum of the park is London clay,
with deep hollows filled with drift gravel,
the flint pebbles in some of these deposits
being broken and the edges slightly
rounded, in the others whole and smooth.
The surface of the park is varied ; it is
traversed in all directions by footpaths,
and wide views are obtained from several
places. The old timber is chiefly oak,
past its prime, but many of the trees are
large, still vigorous, and remarkably pic
turesque. There are many fine horse-
chesnuts, maples (and on both these Mr.
Jesse has here seen the mistletoe growing),
firs, and by Petersham the cedars once
the glory of Petersham Lodge. Hawthorns
abound, old, contorted, but exuberant
in bloom. The newer plantations, now
rapidly maturing, are chiefly of oak, elm,
chesnut, beech, poplar, fir, and red and
white hawthorns. Along its western side,
all the way from the Petersham slopes to
Kingston Gate, the park has something of
a forest aspect, and there is some fresh,
rough forest scenery on the opposite side
by Sheen Gate ; whilst not less picturesque
scenery of another kind is found by the
ferny dells and open heathy tracts towards
Wimbledon. In the centre of the park are two large
sheets of water, the Pen Ponds, nearly
18 acres in area, formed from gravel pits
by the Princess Amelia, in the reign of
George II. They are a great addition to
the scenery, and attract many aquatic
birds : at times, as Mr. Jesse tells, some
fifty or sixty herons assemble, but they
never remain long. Great quantities of
eels inhabit the ponds, and have their
annual migrations.
" An amazing number of eels are bred in the
two large ponds in Richmond Park, which is suffi
ciently evident from the very great quantity of
young ones which migrate from these ponds every
year. The late respectable head-keeper of that
park assured me that, at nearly the same day in
the month of May, vast numbers of young eels,

about two inohesin length, oontrive to get through
the pen-stock of the upper pond, and then through
the ohannel leading into the lower pond; arid
thence through another pen-stook into a water
course falling into the river Thames. They migrate
in one connected shoal, and in such prodigious
numbers that no guess can be given as to their
probable amount." *
About 1450 fallow and 60 red deer are
kept in Richmond Park. The park is well
drained, the food and cover abundant, and
the venison has the reputation of being
the best from any of the royal parks.
Sixty bucks are shot annually.
The entrance gates of Richmond Park
are on Richmond Hill, whence is obtained
that " goodly prospect " which, since
Thomson described it, now very nearly a
century and a half ago,t has been the most
famous and the most visited in England.
Thomson's verses and Turner's painting
remain the truest representations of the
" glorious view, calmly magnificent," but
since Thomson wrote " the boundless land-
skip " has been limited in range by the
erection of houses, and many of the objects
and places mentioned by him have been
concealed by the growth of trees, or
effaced by the hand of time. But the
view has rather gained than lost in love
liness. From contemporary, or nearly
contemporary prints — Sayer's, Heckel's,
Vandergucht's, Farington's, and other en
gravings, and Sir Joshua's famous view
from the window of his house on the hill,
are lying before us — it is evident that
the plain is now much more thickly
wooded, and that the view, with the broad
river winding placidly amid the masses of
verdure, has in consequence acquired in
creased richness and grandeur. The view
is best studied from the Terrace, where it
can be contemplated at leisure beneath
the shade of the spreading elms, or from
the open ground by the Star and Garter.
The view extends, W. and S.W. , from
the broken declivity of the Hill, and the
trees at its foot as a foreground, up the
wide valley of the Thames, — a thickly
wooded tract relieved by open meadows
and gentle undulations, the eye resting
always on the tranquil surface of the
river, with its eyots, skiffs, and swans, —
to the beech-clad hills of Buckingham-
* Jesse, Gleanings in Natural History, 1st Series.
t Thomson's Summer, in which the prospect
from "Thy Hill, delightful Sheen," is described,
was published in 1727. 3^

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498

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shire, the Surrey heaths and downs, and
the Berkshire heights, over which, dimly
visible through a veil of purple haze,
" majestic Windsor lifts his princely
brow." Ham House, with the elm groves
and avenues of Ham Walks on one side of
the river, and on the other the dark mas
sive forms of Hampton Court and the long
chesnut avenues of Bushey Park, are as
prominent and effective features in the
landscape as when Thomson wrote ; but
" the raptur'd eye exulting," looks from
the Terrace in vain for " huge Augusta,"
" the sister hills that skirt her plain," or
even " lofty Harrow." though the last may
be made out from the garden terrace of
the Star and Garter, and all, in clear
weather, from some part or other of the
park. Jeannie Deans' liked "just as weel
to look at the craigs of Arthur's seat, and
the sea coming in ayont them, as at a'
thae muckle trees," * but her historio
grapher, though he recalls the "more
grand and scarce less beautiful domains
of Inverary," admits the view from Rich
mond Hill to be an " inimitable land
scape." Canova, too, is said to have
sighed for cliffs or crags and classic ruins.
In truth, it is a mistaken taste that thinks
of mountains, cliffs, and torrents, or the
landscapes of Claude Lorraine, when
looking at the prospect from Richmond
Hill. The view is one of a wide expanse
of quiet cultivated scenery. It has a
character and charm all its own, and is
perfect in its kind. And its charm is not
dependent on the hour or the season. It
may receive an added grace or assume a
nobler beauty at certain seasons or under
exceptional atmospheric phenomena, but
it is alike exquisite, seen, as we have seen
it, in the earliest dawn or broad daylight,
when bathed in the crimson glory of a
sinking sun, or lit by » full or waning
moon ; in the first freshness of the spring,
the full leanness of summer, the " sober
gold " of autumn, or the sombre depth of
advancing winter.
On the summit of the hill, by the en
trance to Richmond Park, is the Star and
Garter Hotel, renowned for convivial
parties, dinners, and wines. Originally a
small house of entertainment, erected in
1738 on a piece of Petersham waste, let at
£2 a year rental, it gradually extended
* Heart of Mid-Lothian, ch. 36.

till, at the close of the century, it ranked
as a first-class hotel. Twenty years later
it had come to be recognized as the chief
hotel in the vicinity of London. Kings
and princes were among its patrons, and
returned to it in exile ; Louis Philippe
stayed at it for six months after his flight
from Paris ; Napoleon III. had apartments
in it ; and at one time or other it has re
ceived almost every distinguished person
of the day within its walls. The original
Four-in-hand Club used, in the season to
drive down and dine here every Sunday,
and on Sundays it was » favourite resort
of foreigners, who escaped thither from
the dulness of London. On one Sunday
in July 1851, when the hotel was at its
highest, under Mr. Ellis's management, as
many as 560 dinners were served — the
average at that time being about 320. In
1864 the house was transferred to a
Limited Liability Company, who built
a large and costly extension in the shape
of a lofty Italian Renaissance edifice on
the park side of the old hotel. A stately
dining hall was erected by the architect
of the new wing, E. M. Barry, R.A., to
connect the two buildings. The comfort
able old hotel was destroyed by fire or»
the morning of Jan. 12, 1870, but a spa
cious and luxuriously fitted pavilion and
banqueting hall was in 1873-4 erected on
the site, from the designs of Mr. C. J.
Phipps, F.S.A. This building is now
appropriated to dinner parties and holiday
visitants, the building by the park being
reserved for families and residents. From
the banqueting hall and private dining
rooms there are charming views of the
Thames valley, but the best and widest
are obtained from the terrace and grounds
in the rear of the hotel.
The house next to.the Star and Garter
from the park, Wick House (A. Tod,
Esq.), was built by Sir William Chambers
for Sir Joshua Reynolds, on the site of a
small inn called the Bull's Head, pulled
down in 1775. The great painter was in
the habit of giving pleasant little dinner
parties in the summer at his Richmond
villa, when many of the more eminent of
his contemporaries gathered around his
table." Mr. Beechey says, "it is remarkable
that, though he frequently visited it, he
never, it is said, passed a night " at his
* Northcote, life of Reynolds, vol. i., p. 295.

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499

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Richmond villa ; * but this is certainly
incorrect. Malone, Reynolds' friend and
literary executor, says expressly he " oc
casionally spent a few days at his villa on
Richmond Hill ; but he had very little
relish for a country life, and was always
glad to return to London."-)- In his later
days, however, he seems to have visited it
oftener. His niece, Miss Palmer, after
wards Marchioness of Thomond, who at
this time kept his house, writes after
rather protracted visits in July and Aug.,
1789 :—
" A place, to tell you the truth, I hate ; for one
has all the inconveniences of town and country
put together, and not one of the comforts : a house
stuck upon the top of a hill, without a bit of
garden or ground of any sort near it but what is as
public as St. James's Park." J
One of the three landscapes painted by
Reynolds was the view from the drawing-
room window of his Richmond villa.
The house has been added to and
altered since Sir Joshua's death, but it
still bears the impress of Sir Wm. Cham
bers' genius and Sir Joshua's masculine
simplicity of taste.
Ancaster House (Lieut.-Col. F. Burdett),
by the park gate, opposite the Star and
Garter, was long the residence of Sir
Lionel Darell, a great favourite of George
III., who frequently visited him here, and
observing that the grounds were some
what confined, not only added to them a
portion of the park, but himself directed
their arrangement and planting. It is
related that riding one day up Richmond
Hill to Sir Lionel Darell's, he noticed
a handsome new house in course of
erection (No. 3 on the Terrace, Capt. G.
A. Lloyd), and inquired to whom it be
longed. " Blanchard, your Majesty's
card-maker," was the reply ; to which the
King returned, " Blanchard, hey ! — well 1
well I his cards must have turned up
trumps." Mrs. Fitzherbert was resident on Rich
mond Hill in 1784 when she attracted tbe
notice and won the affections of the
Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.)
" According to her kinsman, Lord Stour-
* Beechey, Memoir prefixed to the Literary Works
of Sir Joshua Reynolds, vol. i., p. 196, note.
t Malone, Some Account of Sir Joshua Reynolds,
prefixed to his Works, vol. i„ p. lxv.
} Leslie and Taylor, Life of Reynolds, voL ii.,
p. 442.

ton, she was the original of the once cele
brated ballad, ' The Lass of Richmond
Hill,' " * and the lines
" I'd crowns resign to call thee mine,
Sweet Lass of Richmond Hill,"
are cited in support of the assertion. But
rival claims have been put forward. An
early tradition, embodied by the Rev.
Thos. Maurice in his ' Richmond Hill, a
poem,' and by Dr. Evans, in ' Richmond
and its Vicinity,' makes the heroine to be
a Miss Cropp, who destroyed herself be
cause her father refused to consent to her
marriage with " a young officer of exem
plary character — but poor." Leigh Hunt f
says the lass of Richmond Hill was
understood to be Lady Sarah Lennox,
daughter of the Duke of Richmond, of
whom George III. was in early life sup
posed to be enamoured, but her claim is
inconsistent with the date of the ballad.
Sir Jonah Banington says the lady was a
Mrs. Janson, whose father, a solicitor in
Bedford Row, had a country house on Rich
mond Hill, and the author of the ballad
a Mr. Leonard MacNally ; and lastly, to
increase the confusion, it has been stated
by her grandson that Miss Janson was
indeed the " lovely lass," but that she
resided at Richmond Hill, Leyburn, York
shire, and that Mr. MacNally, the author
of the song, afterwards (1787) married
her.J The song was set to music by
James Hook (the father of Theodore), and
first sung by Incledon, at Vauxhall, in
1789. It immediately became popular,
and, whether the lass was a real, or, as
is more probable, only a poetic person
age, both song and air have ever since
been favourites at Richmond, and regarded
as its unquestionable property.
In the richly wooded grounds adjoin
ing the Terrace, and commanding views
of almost equal extent and beauty, stood
Lansdowne House, so named from having
been for many years the seat of the late
Marquis of Lansdowne. Before him it
had belonged successively to the Marquis
of Anglesey and the Duke of Sutherland.
Later (1865, etc.), it was the residence of
the Prince de Joinville. The house has

*» Hon. C. Langdale, Memoirs of Mrs. Fitzherbert,
p. 117; JeBse, Memoirs of George III., vol. iii., p.
402. + Old Court Suburb, p. 164.
* Letter in the Times, March 31, 1856.

RICHMOND.

500

RICHMOND.

since been pulled down, and the ground
is for sale on lease for building on.
Cardigan House (J. Willis, Esq.), a
little lower down the hill, formerly the
residence of the Earl of Cardigan, stands
in grounds celebrated for their beauty
and prospects : they include the site of
the once noted house of entertainment
known as Richmond Wells. A spring
here was observed to be chalybeate in
1 689, soon began to be resorted to, and in
1696 the Wells House was built.
" The New Wells on Richmond Hill will be com-
pleated for the reception of Company this following
May. There is a large and lofty Dining Room,
broad walks, open and shady, near 300 foot long,
cut out of the descent of the Hill, with a prospect
of aU the country about," etc.*
" Richmond New Wells are to be disposed of by
purchase or lease." t
Assembly, card, and raffling rooms
were added, and the place appears to
have retained its popularity for many
years. " This is to give notice to all Gentlemen and
Ladies, that Richmond Wells are now opened, and
continue so daily ; where attendance is given for
Gentlemen and Ladies that have a mind either to
raffle for Gold Chains, Equipages, or any other
Curious Toys and fine old China, and likewise
play at quadrille, ombre, wisk, etc. And on Satur
days and Mondays, during the Summer season,
there will be Dancing as usual." t
Shortly after this the place began to
decline ; assemblies were advertised there
as late as 1755, but the company became
less reputable, and the premises were
purchased and annexed to the estate, " in
order to get rid of the noise and tumult
attending a public resort of this descrip
tion." The Wells House was pulled down
about 1775.§
Downe House (Hon. Mrs. Broadhurst)
was for a time the residence of Richard
Brinsley Sheridan. Tbe eccentric castel
lated structure conspicious on the rt. in
descending the hill is Ellcrker House
(Rev. J. Askew), for many years the resi
dence of the Hon. Mrs. Ellerker, sister of
the Marchioness of Thomond, in whose
time the grounds were very celebrated.
A large white house nearly opposite was
the residence of John Moore, M.D. , author
* Advt. in London Gazette, April 20—23, 1696
t Ibid., April 5-8, 1697.
j Craftsman, June 11, 1730 : quoted by Lysons.
§ Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iii. , p. 99 ; Lysons,
Environs, vol i., p. 351 ; Crisp, Riohmond and its
Inhabitants.

of 'Zeluco,' and father of General Sir
John Moore.
Queensbury House, the mansion which
acquired so much celebrity during its
long tenancy by the Duke of Queensbury
(Old Q.), was originally known as Chol-
mondeley House, having been built by
George, 3rd Earl of Cholmondeley,
about 1708, on a portion of the ground
occupied by the palace. In it was his
famous collection of pictures, for the
reception of which he erected a spacious
gallery. Lord Cholmondeley sold the
house to the Earl of Brooke and War
wick ; from whom it passed to Sir
Richard Lyttleton, and then to Earl
Spencer, who purchased it for his mother,
the Countess Cowper. On her death, 1780,
it was bought by the Duke of Queensbury,
who made it his principal country
residence ; brought to it the famous
Clarendon (or Cornbury) pictures and
tapestry from Amesbury ; and made it
famous by his dinners and parties and
the distinguished people he collected at
them. " I went yesterday to the Duke of Queensbury'B
palace at Richmond, under the conduct of George
Selwyn the concierge. You cannot imagine how
noble it looks now all the Cornbury pictures from
Amesbury are hung up there. The great hall, the
great gallery, the eating room and the corridor are
covered with whole and half lengths of royal family,
favorites, ministers, peers and judges, of the reign
of diaries I., — not one an original, I think, at
least not one fine ; yet altogether they look very
respectable; and the house is so handsome, ana
the views so rich, and the day was so fine, that I
could only have been more pleased if (for half -an-
hour) I could have seen the real prince that once
stood on that spot, and the persons represented^.
walking about." *
Walpole recurs to this idea some years
later : —
" Richmond, my metropolis, flourishes exceed
ingly. The Duke of Clarence arrived at his palace
there last night, between 11 and 12, as I came
from Lady Douglas. His eldest brother and Mrs.
Fitzherbert dine there to day, with the Duke of
Queensbury, as bis grace, who called here [Straw
berry Hill] this morning, told me, on the very
spot where lived Charles I., and where are the
portraits of his principal courtiers from Cornbury.
Queensbury has taken to that place at last, and
has frequently company and music there in an
evening. I intend to go." t
Again he writes : —
"Richmond is still full, and will be so till after
* H. Walpole to Countess of Ossory, Dec. 1, 1786 ;
Letters, vol. ix., p. -79.
t Walpole to Miss Berry, Sunday, Nov. 28, 1790.

RICHMOND.

501

RICHMOND.

ChristmaB. The Duke of Clarence is there, and
every night at Mrs. Bouverie's, Lady Di's, at home,
or at the Duke of Queensbury's, with suppers that
finish at twelve." *
The Duke of Queensbury continued to
reside here for many years, but he tired
Of the country, and even the sight of the
river grew wearisome. Wilberforce re
lates that when a young man he once
dined with the Duke of Queensbury at his
Richmond villa.
"The party was very small and select, Pitt,
Lord and Lady Chatham, the Duchess of Gordon
and George Selwyn. . . . The dinner was sumptu
ous, the views from the villa quite enchanting,
and the Thames in all its glory ; but the Duke
looked on with indifference. ' What is there ' he
said, ' to make so much of in the Thames ? I am
quite weary of it ; there it goes, flow, flow, flow,
always the same.'" t
At length he found an excuse for leaving
it. He began to extend his grounds by
enclosing the larger part of the popular
Cholmondeley Walk. This the towns
people resented, and as he refused to
desist, the parish authorities applied for
an injunction, when he left Richmond
altogether, and never again visited his
mansion. His removal was regretted
on account of his magnificent style of
living and lavish charity, but personally
the Duke was never popular. The house
was long left without an occupant. It
was then for a time the residence of the
Marquis of Hertford. It was demolished
in 1830. The present Queensbury House
(Thos. Cave, Esq., M.P.) was built on a
back part of the grounds. J
Two other mansions built on the river
side of the palace have some local cele
brity. One, a good old red-brick house
with a stately portico facing the Thames,
known as the Trumpeting House, from
two figures with trumpets which formerly
stood in niches on either side of the por
tico, was built by Richard Hill, Esq., who
obtained a lease of the site from Queen
Anne in 1708. The house was for some
time the residence of Mrs. Way and her
sister the Countess-Dowager of Northum
berland; afterwards of J. A. Stewart
Mackenzie, Lord High Commissioner of
the Ionian Islands, and now of the Hon.
Mrs. Lee Mainwaring. In the grounds
* Walpole to Miss Berry, Dec. 17, 1790.
t Life of William Wilberforce, by his Sons.
X Lysons; Brayleyj Evans, Richmond and its
Vicinity j Crisp, Richmond and its Inhabitants.

is an unusually handsome cedar of Le
banon. Next to it is Asgill House (J
P. Trew, Esq.), a handsome Palladian
villa, built by Sir Robt. Taylor for Alder
man Asgill, but since enlarged and a good
deal altered. Obs. the fine elms, acacias,
and Turkey oak on the lawn.
West of the bridge, by Bellevue Ter
race, is a large house which was built by
George Colman on the site of Queen Eliza
beth's Almshouse ; it was for some time
his residence, and afterwards that of Sir
Drummond Smith and of the Countess of
Kingston. It has since been much al
tered. The large brick house a little higher up
the river is that which was occupied by
the Duke of Clarence (afterwards King
William IV.), and referred to by Horace
Walpole. The Gothic house beyond was
for a while the residence of Madame de
Stael. Buccleuch House, the stately villa of
the Duke of Buccleuch, farther up the
river, at the end of the towing-path, is one
of the most famous of the river-side resi
dences. The house was built for the Duke
of Montagu, and inherited towards the
close of the 18th century by the Duke
of Buccleuch. The house has an old-
fashioned stately aspect, is roomy, and
inside sufficiently magnificent. The fine
lawns slope down to the Thames, and are
connected with the upper grounds by a
passage under the Petersham Road.
" I have been this evening to see the late Duke
of Montagu's at Richmond, where I had not been
for many years. . . . The new garden that clambers
up the hill is delightful, and disposed with admi
rable taste and variety. It is perfectly screened
from human eyes, though in the bosom of so
populous a village ; and you climb till at last,
treading the houses under foot, you recover the
Thames and all the world at a little distance." *
The river fetes and garden parties of
Buccleuch House are among the most
celebrated of their class. One of the
most noted was that given to the Queen
and Prince Consort June 23, 1842, when
there were also present the King and
Queen of the Belgians, Adelaide Queen-
Dowager, the Duchess of Kent, and vari
ous other members of the royal family,
and a crowd of foreign princes and British
nobles. Devonshire Cottage, by the Petersham
* Horace Walpole to Miss Berry, July 29, 1790.

RICHMOND.

502

RICHMOND.

meadows, was the residence of Lady Diana
Beauclerk, the Lady Di of Horace Walpole
and Dr. Johnson, and in her day was
famous for the brilliant little circle that
gathered around her. It was afterwards
the residence of the more widely noted
Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, cele
brated alike for her wit and beauty, and
of no small influence among the Whig
politicians of her day. Later it was the
residence of the Hon. Mrs. Lamb, widow
of George Lamb, brother to Lord Mel
bourne. Camborne House, Lower Road, is the
residence of the Duchess-Dowager of
Northumberland. At Heron Court, Hill
Street, lived the distinguished diplomatist
and author Sir Henry Lytton Bulwer
(Lord Dalling and Bulwer). The neigh
bouring mansion, Hotham House, is the
seat of Baron J. B. Heath. Mount Ararat,
near the Vineyard, formerly the seat of
Earl Grosvenor, and afterwards of Sir
Rose Price, Bart., is now the residence of
Admiral R. F. Stopford.
Spring Grove, Marsh Gate, was built
early in the 18th cent, by the Marquis of
Lothian, and greatly enlarged towards the
close of the century by Sir Charles Price.
A smaller house at Marsh Gate was for
many years the residence of Lord Kenyon,
the distinguished successor of Lord Mans
field as Chief Justice of the King's Bench.
Stawell Home (Sir H. Watson Parker),
Egerton House (Lieut.-Col. Price), and
other good seats, are in this vicinity.
Wentworth House, on the N. side of the
Green, was the seat of Sir Charles Hedges,
Secretary of State to Queen Anne ; after
wards of Sir Matthew Decker, who had
the honour of entertaining George II. with
his Queen in it on the day of his pro
clamation, and built an additional room
for the royal reception. From him it
descended to his grandson Viscount Fitz-
william, who had here the fine collection
of pictures, books, and medals which he
bequeathed to Cambridge University.
After his decease it was successively
occupied by the Countess of Pembroke
and the Countess of Mulgrave, and is now
the seat of R. Laurie, Esq.
Rosedale House, the house in which
James Thomson lived and died, is on
the rt. in Kew Foot Lane, the lane lead
ing from the Green to the Kew Road.
The present house is a large brick house

of three floors, — a centre with a small por
tico reached by a flight of steps, and two
irregular wings. The house Thomson oc
cupied was a mere cottage of two rooms
on the ground floor, which now, united by
an arch, form a sort of entrance hall, that
on the rt. being the poet's sitting-room, —
in which he wrote the ' Castle of Indo
lence,' — that on the 1. his bedroom, in
which he died, Aug. 22, 1748. After the
poet's death the lease of the house was
bought by his friend Mr. George Ross,
who built the present house, piously en
shrining within it the poet's dwelling in
the manner just noted. On Mr. Ross's
death (1786) it became the residence of
the Hon. Mrs. Boscawen (widow of the
Admiral), who collected and placed in
the Thomson rooms various Thomson
relics — his chair, table, etc. After her
decease (1805) it was purchased by the
Earl of Shaftesbury, and was for more
than 40 years the residence of the Coun
tess. It has since suffered many changes,
and is now (1876) the Richmond Infirm
ary. The garden has suffered as much as
the house. Thomson was fond of his
garden, added largely to it, and spent as
much time in improving it as his indo
lent temperament allowed.
"Tou must know that I have enlarged my rural
domain .... the two fields next to me, from the
first of which I have walled — no, no, paled — in
about as much as my garden consisted of before,
bo that the walk runs round the hedge, where you
may figure me walking any time of the day, and
sometimes in the night. You will give me no
small pleasure by sending me from time to time
some seeds, if it were no more than to amuse me
in making the trial. . . . Retirement and Nature
are more my passion every day ; and now, even
now, the charming time comes ; Heaven is just on
the point, or rather in the very act of giving Earth
a green gown. The voice of the nightingale is heard
in the lane."*"
In Lady Shaftesbury's time the garden
was carefully kept and was worth visiting.
In it was ' Thomson's Alcove,' a plain
summer-house painted green, which local
tradition asserted was Thomson's favourite
place for poetic composition. On the
front was an oval board inscribed,
" Here Thomson sung the Seasons and theil
change ; "
and inside was hung a tablet, on which
was the date of the poet's death, and a
long florid inscription, commencing,—

* Thomson to Paterson, Kew Lane, April 1748.

RICHMOND.

503

RICHMOND.

"Within this pleasing retirement, allured
by the music of the nightingale, which
warbled in soft unison to the melody of
his soul, in unaffected cheerfulness, and
genial though simple elegance, lived
James Thomson." Of late the ground has
been curtailed, and small houses built on
the portion cut off ; the summer-house
has been removed from its original place,
whilst, as we have said, the house itself has
been turned into an infirmary : altogether
the admirer of Thomson had better leave
Rosedale House unvisited, and not dispel
any vision he may have formed of the
bard's poetic retirement.
Whilst in Kew Foot Lane the visitor
may be reminded that in it that diligent
antiquary Sir Henry Ellis lived for some
years before bis appointment as principal
librarian at the British Museum.
The Town in itself is not particularly
interesting. It looks best in a distant
view. The main street extends for a mile
from N. to S. The extreme breadth of the
town is about f of a mile, but the houses
are commonplace, and the public build
ings unattractive.
The old Church (St. Mary Magdalen)
is a plain brick building altered and en
larged at different times, with an older
tower of flint and stone, in which is a peal
of eight bells. The ch. is only interesting
for its monts. In the chancel is one to
Henry Viscount Brouncker (d. 1688),
cofferer to Charles II. On N. waU, Lady
Dorothy, wife to Sir George Wright
(d. 1631), with small kneeling effigies of
the lady and her husband, and beneath
three sons and four daughters. Mural
brass of Robert Cotton, groom of the
privy chamber to Queen Mary, and yeo
man of " the removing wardroppe of beds "
to Queen Elizabeth, with effigies of Cotton,
his wife, and eight children. S. wall,
Walter Hickman, of Kew, d. 1617, with
small kneeling effigy, and poetic inscrip
tion. Lady Margaret Chudleigh, d. 1628,
with her effigy, kneeling, and that of her
second husband, Sir John Chudleigh.
Wm. Rowan, K.C., d. 1767, with bust in
flowing peruque. A slab near the altar
rails commemorates the once famous
tragic actress Mary Ann Yates, d. 1787,
and her husband, Richard Yates, also a
celebrated actor, d. 1796. On a pier by
the pulpit is an elaborate mont. by the
younger Bacon to Major George Bean,

R.A., who was killed in the battle of
Waterloo. In the S. aisle is a memorial with a
long insc. to Gilbert Wakefield, the well-
known classical, biblical, and political
writer, d. 1801, and of his brother, Thomas
Wakefield, d. 1806. for 30 years minister
of this parish : their father, the Rev.
George Wakefield, for nine years vicar of
Kingston and minister of Richmond, is com
memorated by a tablet in the chancel. In
this aisle are two monts. by Flaxman, one
with a medallion portrait of the Rev.
Robert Mark Delafosse, LL.B. (d. 1819),
erected by his pupils ; the other, erected
by the Duchess of Bolton in memory of her
sister the Hon. Barbara Lowther (d. 1805),
has a medallion portrait, and a figure of a
mourning female in high relief : by the
pedestal is a lily with three blossoms, one
broken off, sj^nbolizing the three sisters —
the Duchess of Bolton, the Countess of
Darlington, and Mrs. Lowther.
The burial-place of Thomson is indicated
by a brass plate inserted in the wall at
the W. end of the N. aisle.
" In the earth below this tablet are the remains
of James Thomson, author of the beautiful Poems
entitled The Seasons, the Castle of Indolence, etc.,
who died at Richmond Aug. 22nd, and was buried
here the 29th, 1748, O.S. The Earl of Buchan,
unwilling that so good a Man, and sweet a Poet,
should be without a Memorial, has denoted the
place of his interment for the satisfaction of his
admirers, in the year of our Lord, 1792."
The Earl of Buchan, who commemo
rates himself as well as the poet, was the
eccentric earl who figures noticeably in
Lockhart's Life of Sir Walter Scott, and
in the great novelist's diary. It is said
that by an enlargement of the ch. sub
sequent to the poet's interment the present
waU is carried directly across his grave,
so that his body lies half within, half with
out the church.
Outside the ch., by the N. door, is a
large architectural mont. of Richard Vis
count FitzwiUiam, d. 1776 ; his wife,
Catherine, dau. of Sir Matthew Decker ;
and of their son Richard, 7th Viscount
Fitzwilliam, d. 1816, the munificent foun
der of the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cam
bridge. Not far off is the mont. of Sir
Matthew Decker, d. 1749. On the W.
front of the ch., rt. of the tower, is a
marble tablet, witn medallion portrait, of
Edmund Kean, the great tragic actor, who
d. at Richmond, May 15, 1833, " erected

RICHMOND.

504

RICHMOND.

by his son Charles John Kean," in 1839.
Next to it is a tablet to Mrs. Holland,
author of the ' Son of a Genius,' and other
popular tales.
Joseph Taylor, the actor, d. 1 662, who was
instructed in the part of Hamlet by Shak
speare himself, and performed it, as
Downes testifies, incomparably well, was
buried in Richmond ch.-yard. Here too
were interred William Hall, d. 1700, " a
superior violin," as Aubrey terms him,
gentleman of the king's private band,
composer of several airs and author of
' Triplia Concordia ; ' Edward Gibson, d.
1 701 , and Richard Gibson, d. 1 703, painters,
the former the son and the latter the
nephew of Gibson the dwarf ; James
Fearon, a noted actor of Covent Garden
Theatre, d. 1787 ; Joseph Groves, author
of a Life of Wolsey and other works ;
and Heidegger, Master of the Revels to
George II. In the new burial-ground lie
Lady Diana Beauclerk, d. 1808 ; Dr. John
Moore, d. 1802, author of Zeluco ; and
Jacques Mallet du Pau, the publicist, and
editor of the ' Mercure Britannique,' who
d. at the house of his friend Count Lally-
Tolendall, at Richmond, May, 1800.
Nicholas Brady lived at Richmond
whilst engaged on his metrical version
of the Psalms, and by desire of the parish
ioners served as their curate, 1696, there
being then apparently no settled minister
at Richmond. Among the entries in the
ch. register is one of the baptism of Hester,
daughter of Edward Johnson, March 20,
1680-81,— Swift's Stella.
St. Matthias, Mount Ararat Road, a
chapel-of-ease to Richmond ch., is a hand
some early Dec. ch., erected in 1858, from
the designs of Sir Gilbert Scott. It has
side chapels, a clerestorey, a good wheel
window over the western porch, and a
tower and spire 195 ft. high — a con
spicuous object from many points of view.
St. John's district ch., Kew Road, of a
now obsolete type of modern Gothic, was
erected in 1831, from the designs of Mr.
L. Vulliamy. Holy Trinity district ch.
Marsh Gate Road, is a neat cruciform
building, erected in 1870.
There are Roman Catholic and dissent
ing chapels, but of no architectural or
historical interest. Of, more importance
in this point of view is the Wesleyan
Theological Institution, for the education
of students for the Wesleyan ministry,

erected in 1841-3, from the designs of
Mr. A. Trimen, out of the proceeds of the
fund raised in 1839 in commemoration
of the centenary of the foundation of
the Wesleyan societies. It stands near
the summit of the hill, is a large and
stately structure in the Tudor Collegiate
style, 248 ft. long and 65 ft. deep,
contains a handsome hall, library, and
chapel, and, from the observatory at the
top of the central tower, commands a
wide and splendid prospect.
Bp. Duppa lived a retired life at Rich
mond during the civil war and Common
wealth ; and when, after the Restoration,
he was appointed to the see of Winchester,
he occasionally resided there, and there
died in 1662. The year before his death
he founded an almshouse for ten poor
unmarried women over 50 years of age,
who from the endowment have each, ia
addition to their lodging, £1 monthly,
" a gown of substantial cloth of bishop's
blue " every other year, and a barn-door
fowl and a pound of bacon for a Christ
mas dinner. The original house, a low
red-brick building, with an insc. over the
entrance, " Votiva Tabula. I will pay my
vows which I made to God in my trouble,"
stood on the hill by Downe House, but
was taken down a few years back, and a
new one erected in the Vineyard.
To the Vineyard also was removed
Queen Elizabeth's Almshouse, which ori
ginally stood in the Lower Road. It was
founded by Sir George Wright, in 1600,
for eight poor women, who each receive
£1 monthly, an allowance of bread,
cheese, and beer, coals and clothing.
Michel's Almshouse, also in the Vineyard,
was founded by Humphrey Michel and
his nephew John Michel, in 1696, for ten
poor men, who receive each £1 10s.
monthly, a chaldron of coals yearly, and
a great-coat every alternate year. Hie-
key's Almshouse, founded in 1727, by
Wm. Hickey, for six men and ten women,
occupies a neat Elizabethan building,
erected in 1834, from the designs of Mr.
L. Vulliamy, in the Marsh Gate Road.
Next to it stands the Church Lands Alms
house, founded by Act of Parliament in
1828 : the building was erected in 1843,
from the designs of Mr. C. Stow. Hou-
blons' Almshouse, Marsh Gate, was founded
in 1758, by two maiden sisters, Rebecca
and Susannah Houblons, for nine poor

RICHMOND.

505

RICKMANSWORTH.

unmarried women. The building, a low
brick structure, comprises nine distinct
tenements of two rooms each, with a
courtyard in front.
Richmond Tlteatre, -a. house of fame in
the annals of the stage, is at the N.W.
corner of the Green. There appears to
have been a theatre at Richmond as early
as 1715, when " the Duke of Southampton
and Cleveland's Servants " performed B.
Griffin's tragedy, ' Injured Innocence, or
the Virgin Martyr.' In 1719, Penketh-
man " the droll " opened a theatre for
what the Tatler styles " his ingenious com
pany of strollers," in Upper Hill Street
(the site now occupied by York Place), and
it appears to have been weU patronized.
Walpole several times refers to it. Theo-
philus Cibber reopened it in 1756 as ' ' The
Cephalic Snuff Warehouse," where, in
order to avoid the penalties then in force
against unlicensed players, he professed
to sell " a most excellent cephalic snuff,
which, taken in moderate quantities (in an
evening particularly) will not fail to raise
the spirits, clear the brain, throw off ill-
humours, dissipate the spleen, enliven the
imagination, exhilarate the mind, give joy
to the heart, and greatly invigorate and
improve the understanding." He further
announced that " he has also opened at
the aforesaid Warehouse (late called the
Theatre) on the Hill, an Histrionic Aca
demy," etc. The Cephalic Snuff Ware
house was one of Theo. Cibber's latest
speculations : he perished in a vessel in
which he embarked for Dublin, October
1768. The present theatre was built in 1776,
for James Dance, who under the name of
Love was the most popular Falstaff of
his time. Garrick is said to have super
intended its construction ; it was con
sidered one of the best little theatres in
the kingdom, but has since been much
altered. It long enjoyed a large share
of public favour, was much patronized by
George III. and Queen Charlotte, who
often visited it, and was noted for the
eminent actors who occasionally per
formed in it, and as a school for those
who were seeking a London engagement.
Cherry, Beverly, Quick, Munden, Listen,
Mrs. Siddons, Mrs. Jordan, and other
actors of celebrity have trod the boards,
and it was here that Charles Mathews,
the elder, made " his first appearance on

any stage," Sept. 7, 1793, as Richmond in
Richard the Third. Edumnd Kean, in
his later years, was lessee of Richmond
Theatre, and performed in it so frequently
(for awhile on each of the three nights in
the week on which it was open) that he
came at length to play to " a beggarly
account of empty benches " — the receipts
on one occasion being £3 13*. 6d* It
was in a small room in the house attached
to the theatre that the great actor died.
The theatre has ceased to attract, is closed,
looks dilapidated, and is to let.
The Bridge which connects Richmond
with Twickenham was commenced in 1774,
and completed Dec. 1777, at a cost of
£26,000 : the architects were Messrs.
Paine and Couse. It has five arches of
stone, one serving for the towing-path,
and five land arches of Jbrick on the Mid
dlesex shore.
At Richmond Bridge the Thames is
about 300 ft. wide. The distance by the
river from London Bridge is 16J m.
High water is 75 minutes after the time
of high water at London Bridge.
The views from Richmond Bridge are
very pleasing, especially up the river,
with its eyots, Richmond HiU, Ham
Walks, and Twickenham Meadows. A
row up the river is still more to be com
mended. Collins and Wordsworth have
thrown a poetic halo over this portion of
the river's course.
" Remembrance oft shall haunt the shore
When Thames in Bummer wreaths is drest;
And oft suspend the dashing oar.
To bid his gentle spirit rest." t
" Glide gently, thus for ever glide,
O Thames 1 that other bards may see
As lovely visions by thy 6ide
As now, fair river ! come to me.
O glide, fair stream ! for ever so,
Thy quiet soul on all bestowing.
Till all our minds for ever flow
As thy deep waters now are flowing," J
EICKMANSWOETH, Herts, a
smaU town on the Chess, near its junc
tion with the Colne, and the terminus
of the Watford and Rickmansworth br. of
the L. and N.-W. Rly. (20* m.) ; 4 m.
W.S.W. from Watford by road, and 18 m.
* Crisp, Richmond and its Inhabitants, p. 881.
t Collins, Ode on the Death of Thomson.
X Wordsworth, Remembrance of Collins, com
posed upon the Thames near Richmond, 1789.

RICKMANSWORTH.

506

RICKMANSWORTH.

from London. Pop. 5337. Inns :
High Street; Raihvay Hotel, by the
Station. The name — Dom. Richemaresworte ;
anc. records, Rickmereswearth, Rickmeres-
weard — is supposed by the county histo
rians to be derived "from its situation in
a low flat bottom, or nook of land," at the
confluence of the rivers Colne, Gade, and
Chess, or Chesham, here a considerable
stream : " Ric in the Saxon language
signifying rich ; mear a pool of water ;
and wearth, or weard, a piece of land
watered by more rivers than one or situ
ated between them."* This is rather too
complex to be satisfactory, lt more pro
bably signified a town or village (worth,
an enclosed or protected place) on the
Rick mere — the low land at the confluence
of the streams being then covered with
water. From the Dom. Survey we learn
that besides a mill and fishery, there was
arable land for 20 ploughs, pasture for
cattle, and pannage for 1200 swine, so
that the uplands must have been thickly
wooded. The inhabitants numbered 45,
of whom 5 were serfs, and 22 villans, 5
cattagers, 9 bordarii, and 4 Frenchmen —
a sufficiently mixed population.
The chief manor was among the first
gifts to the Abbey of St. Albans (A.D. 793),
and it remained the property of the Abbey
tiU surrendered to the Crown in 1539.
Edward VI. granted it in 1550 to Ridley,
Bp. of London, but it was resumed by
Elizabeth, and remained in the Crown till
granted by Charles I. in discharge of a
loan to one Hewet, who sold it to Sir
Thos. Fotherley. It has since remained
in private hands, and is now the property
of J. Swindon Gilliat, Esq. The sub-
manors, Moor, Michelfield, and Wood-
oaks, are also in private hands ; that of
Crossley (or Croxley) belongs to Gon-
viUV and Caius College, Cambridge, it
having been granted by Queen Elizabeth
to Dr. Caius, who gave it to his coUege.
The Town is an irregular straggling
place of no architectural character, but
country-like, not unpicturesque in parts,
and pleasant from its surroundings. It is
* Chauncy, Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire, vol.
ii., p. 342 ; Clutter buck, Hist, of Hertfordshire,
vol. i., p. 186; Newcome, Hist, of Abbey of St.
Albans, p. 516 : this derivation is made up from
the vocabulary in Verstegan's 'Restitution of
Decayed Intelligence,' ed. 1673, p. 226, etc.

the centre of a busy paper-making district
— there being the extensive paper mills of
Messrs. Dickinson at Croxley and Betch-
worth, M'Murray at Loudwater and
Scot's Bridge, and Austin at Solesbridge
and MiU End. A large silk mill and an
extensive brewery employ many hands ;
straw-plaiting and horsehair weaving are
among the domestic occupations ; and
watercresses are largely grown for the
London market. From the reign of
Henry II. a market was held weekly,
till it fell into disuse within the last 20
years. The Grand Junction Canal comes
close to the town, and there is a consider
able carrying trade.
The Church (St. Alban) was rebuilt,
except the tower, a few years since. It is
a spacious modern Gothic structure, com
prising nave, aisles, and chancel. The
tower, of the Perp. period, is embattled,
and contains a peal of 5 bells. The east
window is filled with painted glass, re
moved from a church at Rouen in the
first French revolution, and purchased
and presented to Rickmansworth church
by a late vicar. Obs. mont. from the old
church to Robert Cary, Baron of Lepping-
ton and 1st Earl of Monmouth, d. 1631, his
wife Elizabeth Trevanian, the 2nd Earl, and
other members of the Cary family. The
first earl was the Robert Carey of the
court of EUzabeth, the courtier who car
ried the news of Elizabeth's death to
James, reaching Holyrood House the third
day after the event. He is author of the
Memoirs which throw so much Ught oil
the court and times of Elizabeth. There
are also monts. to the Fotherleys, Colts,
etc., and a 16th cent, brass. In the ch.-
yard are some fine old trees.
The Gothic Town Hall, of red brick and
Bath stone, was erected in 1870, from the
designs of Mr. A. Allom. The chapel,
with octagonal tower and spire 76 feet
high, is Wesleyan, built in 1867 on the
site of a smaller chapel destroyed by fire ;
it has a good painted glass east window,
representing the Crucifixion, by Messrs.
Heaton. A little S.E. of the town, and divided
from it by the river Colne, is Moor Park,
the stately seat of Lord Ebury. The park
was enclosed by Ucence of Henry VI. in
1426. In the reign of Edward IV. the
manor of Moor belonged to Ralph Boteler,
was forfeited to the 'Crown, and granted

RICKMANSWORTH.

507

RICKMANSWORTH.

to George Nevil, youngest son of Richard
Earl of Warwick, and Abp. of York, who
built a house here, in which he lived in
great state, and on several occasions enter
tained the King, Edward IV. On the
defection of his brother, the King-maker
Earl of Warwick, the Archbishop was
commanded to reside at the Moor, but
shortly afterwards was arrested on a
charge of treason, and sent as a prisoner
first to Calais and then to Guisnes. He
obtained his liberty in 1476, but " all his
¦plate, money, moveable goods to the value
of £20,000, had been seized upon for the
king .... and with grief and anguish of
mind, as was thought," he died shortly
after. Henry VII. gave the manor to
John Earl of Oxford, as a reward for
service rendered him at Bosworth Field ;
but , before long it reverted to the Crown,
and in the next reign formed part of the
estate of Cardinal Wolsey.* After Wolsey's
fall Moor was retained by the Crown till
1617, when James I. granted a lease of it
to Francis, 2nd Earl of Bedford, whose
widow sold it to the Earl of Pembroke.
The Earl divided the Moor Park estate
from the manor, and sold it to Robert
Cary Earl of Monmouth, who died at
Moor Park in 1639. On the death of Cary's
Bon in 1661, Moor Park was purchased by
Sir John Franklyn, from whose son it
passed to Thomas Earl of Ossory, son of
James Duke of Ormond, created by
Charles II. Baron Butler of Moor Park.
He sold the seat and park to the Duke of
Monmouth, on whose execution it was
granted by James II. to his widow.f
The gardens, which were " made by the
Countess of Bedford, esteemed among the
greatest wits of her time, and celebrated
by Dr. Donne, and with very great care,
excellent contrivance, and much cost,"
were at this time very famous. Sir William
Temple, who declares Moor Park to be
" the sweetest place, I think, that I have
seen in my life, at home or abroad," gives
in his essay ' On the Gardens of Epicurus,'
a fuU description of the garden at Moor
Park, " the perfectest figure of a garden I
ever saw  for a model to those that
meet with such a situation, and are above
the regards of common expense." The
terrace gravel-walk on to which the beat
* Cavendish, Life of Wolsey, p. 246.
t Haywood, On C. J. Fox's James II., . 417.

parlour opens, is about 300 paces long, and
broad in proportion, the border set with
standard laurels, and two summer-houses
at the ends. From this walk are three
descents of stone steps into a very great
parterre, which is divided by gravel walks
and adorned with fountains and statues.
At the sides of the parterre are two large
cloisters upon arches of stone, and ending
with two other summer-houses. Over the
cloisters are two terraces, covered with
lead and fenced with balusters, the en
trance to which is from the summer-
houses. FUghts of steps lead from the
middle of the parterre into the lower
garden, " which is all fruit-trees ranged
about the several quarters of a, wilder
ness," the walks all green and very shady,
with a " grotto embellished with figures
of sheU rock-work, fountains and water
works." On the other side of the house
is a garden all of evergreens, " very wild,
shady, and adorned with rough rock- work
and fountains." *
Such was a model garden in the 17th
century, and quoting the passage in the
18th century, another courtly essayist on
gardening says he will only remark on
this description that " any man might
design and build as sweet a garden who
had been born in and never stirred out of
Holborn." f
So tastes change — the garden had been
transformed long before. In 1720 it was
sold to Benjamin Hoskins Styles, who had
enriched himself by successful dealing in
South Sea shares, and who spent, as is
said, £130,000 of his gains in building
and alterations at Moor Park. He em
ployed the then popular architect Giacomo
Leoni to enlarge the house (which is said
to have been built by the Duke of Mon
mouth), face it with Portland stone, add
wings, and connect them with the main
building by a Tuscan colonnade. The
mere carriage of the stone for these works
is reported to have cost £14,000. The
interior was fitted up with corresponding
magnificence, Sir James Thornhill being
engaged to paint the principal rooms.
Further, that he might have a prospect
from the house, the hills N. and S. were

* Sir Wm. Temple, Miscellanea, the Second Part,
ed. 1690, p. 127, etc.
t Walpole, Essay on Modem Gardening : Anec
dotes, vol. iv., p. 277.

RICKMANSWORTH.

508

RICKMANSWORTH.

cut through so as to afford a vista with
Watford church as a termination in one
direction and Uxbridge in the other — a
whim that Pope used to point his satire
on modern taste :
" Or cut wide views through mountains to the
plain,
You'll wish your hill a sheltered seat again. ''
This was done, it is added in a note, " in
Hertfordshire by a wealthy citizen, at the
expense of above £5000, by which means
(merely to overlook a dead plain) he let
in the north-wind upon his house and
parterre, which were before adorned and
defended by beautiful woods." * This is
overstated, however, for the view from the
terrace front towards Watford is very
charming, and by no means over a dead
level. On the death of Mr. Styles the
estate was purchased by the celebrated
circumnavigator, Admiral (afterwards
Lord) Anson, who spent £80,000 in un
doing his predecessor's costly doings,
chiefly in the grounds, for the rearrange
ment of which he caUed in that famous
destructive CapabiUty Brown.
" We went to see Moor Park, but I was not much
struck with it, after all the miracles 1 had heard
Brown had performed there. He has undulated
the horizon in so many artificial mole-hills, that it
is full as unnatural as if it was drawn with a rule
and compasses. Nothing is done to the house ;
there are not even chairs in the great apartment.
My Lord Anson is more slatternly than the Chur-
chills [of Chatfont], and does not even finish
children, "t
Lord Anson died suddenly whilst walk
ing in the garden at Moor Park in 1762,
and in 1765 his heir sold the estate to Sir
Lawrence Dundas,J whose son sold it in
1787 to T. Bates Rous, an East India
¦director, who being unsuccessful in com
mercial speculations, puRed down the
wings, erected at so much cost by Mr.
Styles, to raise money by selUng the mate
rials. It afterwards passed to a Mr.
Williams, was purchased by the Marquis
of Westminster, and is now the seat of
Lord Ebury.
Though denuded of its wings and
colonnades, the house is of stately pro-
* Pope, Moral Essays, Epistle iv., line 75.
+ Horace Walpole to George Montagu, July 4,
1760 ; Letters, vol. iii., p. 324.
i The house was engraved, during his occupancy,
in the Vitruvius Britannicus, vol. v., pi. 20. Plan
and Elevation of Moor Park belonging to Sir Law
rence Dundas, Sir J. Tbornhill, archt. ; Gandon,
delt., White, so.

portions, and looks well beyond the broad
terrace. Its chief external feature is a
grand tetrastyle Corinthian portico, the
columns of which are about 50 feet high.
Of the interior, the great haU and the
saloon to which it leads are the chief
features. The hall is of unusual size and
height, with 5 large marble doorways
supported by colossal statues, and the
walls and ceilings decorated with classi
cal and emblematic compositions painted
by Sir James ThornhiU ; the saloon has
on the ceiUng a copy of Guido's Rospi-
gliari Aurora. When these paintings
were completed, Mr. Styles refused to
pay the stipulated sum, £3500, on
the ground that they were not pro
perly executed, and Thornhill sued him
for the amount. Richardson, Dahl,
and other artists were appointed to ex
amine the work, and their report being
favourable, " Mr. Styles was condemned
to pay the money, and by their arbitra
tion £500 more for decorations about the
house and for Thornhill's acting as sur
veyor to the building." *
The drawing and dining rooms are
handsome apartments, and contain some
interesting pictures and objects of taste
and curiosity.
The pleasure grounds, of about 25 acres,
are laid out near the house in terraces,
adorned with vases, sculpture, and foun
tains, flower-beds in geometric patterns
and brilliant with flowers of every hue,
and pass away on the one hand into less
formal waUcs backed by evergreens, to
kitchen gardens where yet flourish the
once famous " Moor Park apricots " and
Moor Park lettuces of Lord Anson's in
troduction, and on the other to the hill
and wilderness with its quaint mixture
of old trees and tall formal columns —
relics of the old demolished colonnades
— and broad pond bordered with shrubs
and aquatic plants, and alive with song
birds and waders.
The Park, of nearly 500 acres, is varied
in surface, rich in ancient trees, wild
ferny tracts spotted over with deer, and
ornamental waters, the favourite haunt
of the moor-hen. It is an old tradition
that the Duchess of Monmouth, in memory
of her husband's execution, pollarded all
* Walpole, Anecdotes of Painting in England,
vol. iv., p. 42.

RICKMANSWORTH.

509

RIDGE.

the oaks in Moor Park. But this the
aspect of the present ancient oaks clearly
refutes ; and Sir Joseph Paxton some 30
years ago, after examining them for the
purpose, stated decidedly that they could
not have been lopped. The trees are
among the finest in England, many of
them being of vast size, their lowest
branches on the ground and their f oUage
in the fullest luxuriancy.
Other seats are — Rickmansworth Park
(Joseph Arden, Esq.), a good house
standing in grounds which extend north
wards from the town to Loudwater, with
the Chess on the E. border. Loudwater
House (J. D'Aguila Samuda, Esq., M.P.)
The Cedars, Chorley Wood, a handsome
modern manor-house, the seat of J. S.
GUbert, Esq.
Hamlets of Rickmansworth are : —
Batchmorth, S. of the town and the
Grand Junction Canal. Here are large
paper-miUs, wharf on the canal, the
goods station of the railway, and, at
Frogmore HiU, the Female Orphan
Home for 50 orphans.
Chorley is a pleasant hamlet and eccl.
dist. of 955 inh., 2 m. N.W., on the border
of Bucks. The ch., Christ Church,
erected in 1870, is one of Mr. Street's
best country churches, is handsomely de
corated, and contains some good painted
glass. At Chorley Wood Common is the
kennel of the Old Berkeley Hunt.
Croxley Green, 3 m. S.W. from Rick
mansworth, on the Colne, which separates
it from Middlesex, is an eccl. dist. formed
in 1872. The church (All Saints) is a
neat E.E. building erected in 1872. The
country is very pretty, with Harefield
Park on the opposite side of the river.
The fishing, for which the district was
noted, has been spoiled by the paper-
mills. Mill End, on the Uxbridge Road, and
on the Colne, 1 m. S.W. from Rickmans
worth, is a busy suburb, with paper-miUs,
large brewery, tannery, etc. A church,
St. Peter, of flint and stone, E.E. in
style and cruciform, designed by Mr.
Sutton, was consecrated in 1875.
At Loudwater, 1 m. N., are Mr.
M'Murray's extensive paper-mills ; Glen
Chess, the seat of W. M'Murray, Esq.,
and other good houses.
West Hyde, an eccl. dist. (formed m
1846) of 493 inh,, is on the Uxbridge

Road, 2£ miles S.W. of the town. The
church, St. Thomas, erected in 1845, is of
brick and stone, Norman in style and
cruciform. Here are chalk pits and a
paper-mill — formerly a copper mill.
There are besides Maple Cross, 2 m. S.W.,
and several other outlying collections of
houses. RIDDLESDOWN, Surrey (see
Caterham Junction).
RIDGE, Herts, \ m. S.W. of
South Mimms, about 3 m. W. from Pot
ter's Bar Stat, of the Grt. N. Rly., by
crooked country lanes, and 4 m. N.W.
from the High Barnet Stat. (Edgware
and Barnet branch) of the Grt. N. Rly.
Pop. 448.
The village consists of a dozen country
cottages, one or two houses of higher rank,
a farm-house, parsonage, the village shop,
and the village inn. The ch. stands apart
on the rt. , venerable in its solitude. It
consists of chancel (early Dec.) and nave
and tower (Perp.) of flint and stone, with
a recent W. window. In it are monts. to
the Blounts, who held the manor for
several generations. The best known of
the name interred here are Sir Henry
Pope Blount, d. 1682, who published an.
account of his ' Voyage into the Levant,'
1636, which passed through several edi
tions, and his sons, Sir Thomas Pope
Blount, d. 1697, the author of 'De Re
Poetica,' (1694), ' Censura Celebriorum
Authorum,' etc. ; and Charles Blount,
the deistical writer, but better remem
bered for his important exertions in
emancipating the press from the tyranny
of a Licenser. Charles Blount d. by his
own hand, Aug. 1693, driven to frenzy
by the failure of his efforts to obtain a
Ucence to marry his deceased wife's sister,
and her refusal to marry without it. Pope
has commemorated him in the line —
"If Blount despatch 'd himself, he played the
man." *
'¦ The flippant profaneness of the notes "
to his translation of Appolonius of Tyana,
as Macaulay remarks, " called forth the
severe censure of an unbeUever of a very
different order, the iUustrious Bayle."
But Bayle only knew the notes by report
(see his Diet., note I. to art. Apollonius.
* Epistle to the Satires, Dialogue I.

RIVERHEAD.

510

ROEHAMPTON.

de Tyane). Macaulay has devoted several
pages of his history (chap, xix.) to
Charles Blount. His books were collected
and reprinted by Gildon. 1695. The seat
of the Blounts was Tittenhanger. (See
London Colney.)
RIVERHEAD, Kent, a vill. and
eccl. dist. formed in 1874 from Seven
oaks par., is situated at the junction of
the Wester ham with the London and
Maidstone road, 1 m. N.W. from Seven
oaks, and about the same distance from
the Sevenoaks (Dunton Green and Tubb's
HiU) Stats, of the S.-E. Rly. (Direct Tun
bridge Une), and L. C and D. Rly. Pop.
750 ; but the area of the district has been
somewhat enlarged since the census of
1-871. Inn, the Amherst Arms, a good
house pleasantly situated by Montreal
Park. Riverhead isa quiet agricultural viUage,
not remarkably picturesque, but attrac
tive from its situation amidst parks,
woods, shady lanes, broad open fields, and
hop gardens. The Church (St. Mary) is
a neat, commonplace stone building,
Gothic of the year 1831. Montreal, the
seat of Earl Amherst, is a stately and
commodious mansion, standing in the
midst of a finely wooded park imme
diately S. of the village. Bradbourne
Hall (F. Crawshay, Esq.) is a good
house built in 1730 on the site of an older
Bradbourne, " a place of account," which
belonged to Fulke de Brent in the reign
of John, and was forfeited with his other
estates in the reign of Henry III. Granted
to Baldwin de Beten, Earl of Albemarle,
it passed by marriage to William Mares-
chall, Earl of Pembroke, and then to
Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, who in
1283 transferred it to Otho, Lord Grandi
son. "After this family was worn out,"
Philipott tells us, it was owned by the
Pevenleys or Pemleys, from whom the
house " in old deeds is written Pevenley
or Pemley Court." From them it passed
to the Ashes ; in the beginning of the
reign of Elizabeth to Ralph Bosville ; and
since, in succession through many hands,
to its present owner. Sir Ralph Bosville
had the honour of entertaining Queen
Elizabeth at Bradbourne, and in the
great drawing-room of the present house
is a set of tapestry hangings which the
Queen is said to have presented to her

host. Other seats are Riverhead House
(C. R. C. Petley, Esq.) ; Oakhill (George
LyaU, Esq.), etc.
ROEHAMPTON, Surrey, an
eccl. dist. of Putney, lies W. of Putney
Heath, between it and Richmond Park,
about 1 m. S. of the Barnes Common
Stat, of the L. and S.-W. Rly. (Richmond
line) ; pop. 1497.
The pleasantness of the situation and
the proximity of Richmond caused Roe-
hampton at an early period to be in
favour as a place of residence. Many of
the good old houses remain, but several
have been demolished to make way for
modern viUas, and more seem doomed to
be ere long the prey of the builder. The
village is small and of little interest.
Here was a royal park, originally known
as Putney Park, but sometimes called
Mortlake Park, about 300 acres in ex
tent, its eastern boundary being the lane
stUl called Putney Park Lane. In Mary's
reign, Sir Robert Tyrwhit was Keeper of
the Park. James I. granted Sir Charlea
Howard the office for Ufe. Charles I., in
the 2nd year of his reign, aUenated the>
park to Sir Richard Weston, a great
favourite of the King, who in 1628 ap
pointed him Lord Treasurer, and shortly
after created him Lord Weston and Earl'
of Portland. Weston made Roehampton
his chief residence, living here in great
state. In May 1632 a chapel in his
house was consecrated by Bishop Laud,
and a month afterwards Jerome Weston,
the Lord Treasurer's son, was married in
it to Lady Frances Stuart, daughter of
Emme Duke of Lenox, — a splendid
wedding, at which Laud officiated, the
King gave away the bride, and Ben
Jonson wrote the Epithalamium —
" See the procession ! what a holy-day
(Bearing the promise of some better fate)
Hath filled with cacoches all the way
From Greenwich hither, to Row-hampton gate.
*****
See now the chapel opens ; where the King
And Bishop stay to consummate the rites :
The holy prelate prays, then takes the ring,
Asks first, Who gives? (I Charles) then he
plights One in the other's hand
While they both stand
Hearing their charge ; and tben
The solemn quire cries, Joy ; and they return
Amen."*
* Ben Jonson, The Under- Wood, ed. 1640, p. 239.

ROEHAMPTON.

511

ROEHAMPTON.

In 1635 Lord Portland obtained a
licence to enclose 450 acres and add them
to his park, but he died shortly after,
and, instead of extending, his son began
to alienate the estate. Roehampton Park
and mansion he sold for £11,300 to Sir
Thos. Dawes, who sold them to Christian
Countess of Devonshire — a woman of
great ability and influence, who made
Roehampton Park a notable place.
Hobbes, the metaphysician, Uved here
as tutor to her son ; the leading wits and
poets of the day frequently assembled
here, and Charles II., with the Queen
Dowager and the Royal Family, paid the
Countess repeated visits. In 1689 the
house was sold to Alderman Sir Jeffery
JefEerys, on whose death, in 1707, it was
sold to Mr. Bagnall; then passed suc
cessively to Mr. Fordyce the banker,
Mr. T. Parker, and Joshua Vanneck, after
wards Lord Huntingfield, who pulled
down the old mansion, erected a new
villa, known as Roeliampton Grove, from
the designs of Wyatt, and altered and
modernized the grounds. It subsequently
became the property and residence of
Mr. Thos. Fitzherbert and of Mr. Wm.
Gosling, the banker. It is now the resi
dence of Mrs. Lyne Stephens.
Roehampton Park is now in part occu
pied by a spacious Gothic edifice, the
Roman CathoUc Convent of the Sacred
Heart. The entrance is in Roehampton
Lane, N. of the ch. An Orphanage and
other buildings were added in 1866, Mr.
M. E. Hadfield, archt.
Roehampton House, the seat of the Earl
of Leven and MelviUe, is a red brick
house, with wings, erected for Thomas
Carey, Esq., in 1712, from the designs of
Thos. Archer, the architect of St. John's
Church, MUbank, Westminster. The
ceiling of the saloon has a Banquet of
the Gods on Olympus, painted by Sir
James ThornhiU. It was for a time the
residence of the Earl of Albemarle. The
grounds are extensive and beautiful.*
Dover House, the seat originally of
Lord Dover, afterwards of Lord Clifden,
the Viscountess Clifden, and lately of
Mr. Alexander ColUe, is a handsome villa
in charming grounds, of old famous for
its social and literary gatherings.
* In vol. i. of the Vit. Brit, is an elevation of
Roehampton House as originally built by Archer.

" Nov. \2th, 1829.— At Roehampton at Lord
Clifden's from Tuesday the loth till to-day.
Sir James Mackintosh, Moore, Poodle Byng,
and the M;ister of the Rolls. It was uncommonly
agreeable. " *
Downs/lire House (D. B. Chapman,
Esq.) was so named from having been
long the residence of the Marchioness of
Down shire.
Mount Clare was built in 1772, by
George Clive, Esq., and so named in com
pliment to his relative Lord Clive, and
his Esher mansion, Claremont. In 1780
it was purchased by Sir John Dick, Bart.,
who employed Signor Oolumb, an Italian
architect, to Italicize the building, and
add a Tuscan portico. It was afterwards
the residence of Charles Hatchett, Esq.,
F.R.S., H. Meldrey, Esq., Admiral Sir
Charles Ogle, and Robert Hanbury, Esq.,
M.P. Besborough House, originally Park-
stead, was built by Sir William Chambers,
for Brabazon Ponsonby, Earl of Bes
borough, and was celebrated in its day
both as a building, and on account of the
fine collection of works of art and anti
quity formed in it by the Earls of Bes-
borough.f After passing through two or
three hands, it was purchased and de
molished about 1863 by a building society.
Clarence Lodge, Clarence Lane, for
awhile the residence of the Duke of
Clarence (afterwards WilUam IV.), is now
the Royal School for Daughters of Officers
of the Army.
Tiie Priory, the fine seat of the late
Lord Justice Sir J. Knight Bruce, has
been converted into a private lunatic
asylum. The grounds, of about 40 acres,
are varied, well timbered, and very beau
tiful. There are several other good seats in
this viUage of villas, but these will suffice
to indicate the character of the place.
The village proper, never very interest
ing, has been rendered still less so by re
cent commonplace dwelUngs.
The Chivrch, Holy Trinity, a rather
elegant E.E. building, was erected in
1842 from the designs of Mr. Benj.
Ferrey, F.S.A., and altered and enlarged
in 1862. The original chapel was that
consecrated by Bp. Laud. It was re-
* Greville's Memoira, vol. i., p. 241.
t It is engraved under the name of Parkstead in
vol. iv. of the Vitruvius Britanuieus.

ROMFORD.

512

ROMFORD.

moved, and a larger chapel erected in its
stead, in 1727 ; and this in its turn gave
place^to the present structure. The large
and costly mausoleum just outside the
churchyard on the N. (within the grounds
of Roehampton Park) was erected from
the designs of Mr. W. Burn, to receive
the remains of the late Mr. Lyne Stephens,
and specially consecrated by the Bp. of
London, August 1864.
ROMFORD, Essex, a market
town oh the Colchester road, and a stat.
on the Grt. E. Rlwy. 12 m. from London
by road or rly. Pop. of the town 6355,
of the par. 8239, of whom 373 were in
mates of the Union Workhouse. Inns :
White Hart (a good house), and Golden
Lion, High Street ; Swan, Dolphin, Lamb,
etc., Market-place.
The name is derived from the ford over
the Bourne (called by some writers the
Rom), a shallow stream which flows
through the middle of the town and falls
into the Thames at Dagenham. Letheu-
ilUer and others suppose that from its
being on the Une of the Roman road it
was called the Roman ford, and by con
traction Romford. Others more plausibly
suggest that it was the broad ford, from
the A.-S. rum, broad, the brook here spread
ing out into a wide and shallow stream.
If, however, the Rom were the ancient
name of the brook, it would simply mean
the Ford over the Rom.
Romford had a market as early as 1247.
The first mention of the manor is in a
record of 1299, when it was held by
Henry of Winchester, a Jewish convert.
Until about 1780 Romford was a chapelry
of Hornchurch, but is now a distinct
parish. With Havering-atte-Bower and
Hornchurch, originally one parish (see
Havering), it formed the Liberty of
Havering-atte-Bower, was governed by
its own high steward and justices, and
possessed a separate jurisdiction, courts,
including a prerogative court for wills,
sessions, and commission for trying felons
within the liberty.
The town stretches for over a mile along
the great Essex road, and is crossed near
the centre by another principal street,
which leads S. to Hornchurch and Rain
ham, and N. to Havering. The main
street, narrow in the middle, expands
towards the ends, the western half form

ing the High Street, the eastern the Market
place, the cross street being named
South Street on one side of the High Street
and North Street on the other. Several ad
ditional streets have been formed within
the last few years, especially S. of the
town and about the rly. stat. High
Street and Market-place contain some
good shops, an unusually large number of
inns and public-houses, and a few public
bmldings. The Market-place extends
from W. of the ch. to the extreme E. end
of the town, cattle-pens being fixtures in
the open street. Formerly there were
markets for hogs on Monday, cattle and
calves on Tuesday, and corn on Wednes
day ; but there is now only one market-
day, Wednesday, when Romford presents
a busy and noisy but characteristic and
not unpicturesque scene. The calves,
cattle, and hogs — the speciaUties of Rom
ford market — are at the E. end of the
market-place, westward are farm tools and
necessaries, clothes, and miscellaneous
goods, fruit and vegetables. The Corn
Exchange is on the N. side of the High
Street. The market is the largest for
corn, calves, and cattle, in the neighbour
hood of London. Romford is an agricul
tural centre, and there are agricultural
implement factories, foundries, and the
great ale brewery of Messrs. Ind, Coope,
and Co. (the entrance to it is on the S. of
the High Street, but the works extend to
the rly.)
The original chapel of Romford, built
about 1323, some distance E. of the town,
was taken down in 1407, and a larger one
erected on the site of the present ch.
Romford Church, dedicated to the Virgin
Mary and St. Edward the Confessor (see
Havering-atte-Bower), is a Dec. build
ing, with window tracery incUning to
Flamboyant, designed by Mr. J. Johnson,
and consecrated Sept. 19, 1850. It is
built of hammered Kentish rag with Bath
stone dressings, and comprises nave with
aisles, chancel with chapels, and on the
S. tower a stone spire 160 feet high, and
a stone porch. The tower contains a
good peal of 8 bells. The- interior is spa
cious, lofty, and effective. In it is the
mont. from the old church of Sir Anthony
Cooke of Gidea Hall, d. 1576, preceptor
to Edward VI., with alabaster effigies of
the knight and his wife, kneeUng, and
long Latin insc, said to have been written

ROMFORD.

513

ROMFORD.

by his daughters, celebrated alike for
their learning in an age when female
learning flourished, and for their fortunate
marriages. Mildred mai-ried WilUam
Lord Burleigh ; Anne married Nicholas
Bacon, Keeper of the Great Seal, and was
the mother of the great Lord Bacon ;
Elizabeth married John Lord Russell,
eldest son of Francis Earl of Bedford,
and Catherine married Sir Henry KUU-
grew. Several of the windows have
memorial painted glass, by Wailes of
Newcastle and others. Obs. in the E.
window the (restored) figure of Edward
the Confessor.
St. Andrew's ch., at the E. end of the
town, was erected from the designs of Mr.
J. Johnson, in 1863, when the eccl. dist.
of St. Andrew was created. The church
is a neat late Dec. building of Kentish rag
and Bath stone. Not far from it is a
Cemetery with a small Norman chapel
and Uch-gate.
The Town Hall, near the Market-place,
is a Corinthian building, tall and narrow.
In it is held the Literary Institute. In
the Market-place is a Court House ; a
County Court has been built near the Rly.
Stat., and opposite the Corn Exchange
is the London and County branch bank,
a showy Italian building with poUshed
granite shafts and much carving.
Gidea (otherwise Giddy, Gedy, and
fcr«y<&fy), a subordinate manor of Romford,
beUeved to have belonged originally to
the Abbey of Westminster, was in the
reign of Edward IV. held by Sir Thos.
Cooke, Alderman and Lord Mayor of
London, who obtained a Ucence in 1467
to enclose a park and erect a fortified
and embattled mansion. Falling however
under the royal displeasure for refusing
to lend money to the King, he was heavily
fined, his goods seized, and he died in
1478, leaving his house unfinished. Gidea
Hall was only completed in the reign of
Elizabeth, by his grandson, Sir Anthony
Cooke (whose monument is in Romford
church), who had been an exile in the
reign of Mary, but returned on the acces
sion of her sister, and had the honour of
entertaining the Queen at Gidea in July
1568, as he recorded in an inscription on
the front of the honse. Mary de' Medici
lodged at Gidea Hall the night before her
arrival in London in 1638 ; the King, her
son-in-law, who had escorted her from

Chelmsford, staying at his house at Haver
ing-atte-Bower. The estate remained in
the Cooke family till 1657, when it was
alienated to Richard Ernes, by whom it was
sold in 1664 to John Burch. After one or
more changes, it was purchased by Sir
Francis Eyles, Bart., who, about 1720,
pulled down the old house and erected in
its place the present Gidea Hall, which
however owes something of its actual ap
pearance to a subsequent possessor, Rich
ard Benyon, Governor of Fort St. George,
and his son, Richard Benyon, Esq. , who
made great alterations in the grounds, and
built the bridge, of 3 elliptical arches, from
the designs of Mr. Wyatt. Sir Anthony
Cooke's house, of which John Thorpe was
the architect, is engraved in La Serres'
account of the Queen Mother's Progress
in England, and reproduced in Nichols's
Progresses of Queen EUzabeth. The
present Gidea Hall, on the 1. of the road,
£ m. beyond the town, is a bald common
place rectangular building of brick and
stone, but contains some handsome rooms.
There is a good engraving of it by Walker
from a drawing by Humphrey Repton,
1794. It is now the residence of the Rev.
T. Sill Gray, D.D.
Mark's House was a quaint quadrangu
lar half-timber moated manor-house, situ
ated on the margin of Hainault Forest,
about 2 m. W. of Romford. The house
and manor belonged, 1499, to Thos. Urs-
wyck, Recorder of London ; in 1605 to
Sir George Hervey, Lieutenant of the
Tower, whose son, Sh- Gawen Harvey,
bequeathed it to his nephew, Carew Mild-
may, from whom it passed to Powlet St.
John, who assumed the name of Mildmay
in addition to that of St. John, and in
whose family it remains. The house, which
had been long uninhabited, and was much
decayed, was pulled down in 1808.
Dagna/ms lies at the N.E. extremity of
the par., about 4 m. from the town. In
1454 Henry Percy, Earl of Northumber
land, died seised of the manors of Dag-
nams and Cockerells ; as did Sir Wm.
Husee in 1495, Peter Christmas in 1517,
and Thos. Legatt in 1555. In 1637 it
belonged to Lawrence Wright, M.D.,
whose son Henry was created a baronet
by Cromwell in 1658, and by Charles II.
in 1660. Sir Henry's daughter, Mrs. Anne
Rider, devised the manor to her relative
Edward Carteret, Esq., Postmaster- 33

ROSHERVILLE.

514

ROYDON.

General, during whose occupation Pepys
many times visited the house (which he
describes as " a most noble and pretty
house that ever, for the bigness, I saw ")
to assist at the courtship and wedding of
Mr. Carteret and " my Lady Jem," his
patron Lord Sandwich's daughter. The
estate was sold in 1749 to Henry Muil-
man, and again in 1772 to Sir Richard
Neave, who pulled down the old house
and built the present mansion on a new
site. Dagnams is now the seat of Sir
Arundel Neave, Bart.
Stewards, a town manor, belonged in
the first half of the 16th cent, to the
Halys family; was alienated iu 1565 to
Wm. Cade, and in 1588 to James Quarles,
Clerk of the Board of Green Cloth, whose
more famous son, Francis Quarles, the
author of the ' Book of Emblems,' was
born at Stewards in May 1592. The
manor passed from the Quarles family in
1708, and has since had many owners.
Hare Hall (R. Pemberton, Esq.), by the
hamlet of Hare Street, 1 m. beyond. Rom
ford, on the main road, is a spacious man
sion of Portland stone, comprising a centre
with attached columns and pediment, and
wings connected by a short colonnade,
designed by Paine and erected by Mr. J.
A. Wallinger in 1769, on the site of an old
family seat. The house contains some
noble rooms, commands wide prospects,
and stands in good grounds. In a plea
sant cottage in Hare Street, now called
Repton Cottage (A. Graham, Esq.), lived
for over 30 years, and died March 24,
1818, Humphry Repton, the celebrated
landscape gardener.
At Noak Hill, a hamlet 4 m. N.E. from
Romford, are the Priory (J. Sands, Esq.)
and Home Park (M. Whittingham. Esq.)
Other good seats are — Marshalls(0. Coe,
Esq.), J m. N. of the town on the Havering
road ; Priests (Octavius Mashiter, Esq.),
i m. farther on the same road ; Eastbury
Lodge (W. H. Clifton, Esq.), London
Road, etc.
ROSHERVILLE, Kent, on the
Thames immediately W. of Gravesend, is
an eccl. dist. of Northfleet par. , founded
in 1853, with an area of 170 acres and a
population of 767.
The place owes its name to its founder,
Jeremiah Rosher, formerly largelyengaged
in chalk and lime-works here, who created

on the cliffs overlooking the abandoned
pits a village of smart villas and " cottages
of gentiUty." The church, St. Mark, built
by the Rosher family, and endowed by
George Rosher, Esq., of Crete Hall, is a
neat modern Gothic structure with several
memorial painted glass windows.
Rosherville is, however, most widely
known by its gardens, " the place" — as we
are told at every rly. stat. — " to spend a
happy day," and since Vauxhall the most
popular resort on the Thames. Formed
out of an abandoned chalk-pit, and ori-
ginaUy intended for zoological gardens,
Rosherville Gardens present in many
respects a unique appearance, the cliffs,
some of which are 150 feet high, and
natural features, having been skilfully
taken advantage of, and the floricultural
arrangements being profuse and varied.
There are, of course, many objects and de
corations in more than questionable taste,
but if not exactly, as one of the advertise
ments before us insists, — " sublimely pic
turesque, truthfully charming, truly rural,
veritably salubrious — the Garden of all
the Gardens in the world," — Rosherville
Gardens are exceedingly pretty, and will
repay a visit. But it should be in the
morning : in the afternoon and evening,
theatrical and acrobatic performances,
ballets and outdoor dancing, fireworks,
the company, and the accompaniments,
are a trying drawback on the beauty of
the gardens.
The Rosherville Hotel is noted for its
dinners. A pier, erected in 1840 close to
the gardens, serves for passengers by
steam-boats and the Tilbury and N.
London Rlys.
ROXETH, Middx. (see Harrow-
on-the-Hill). ROYDON, or WOODRED0N,
Essex, on the borders of Hertfordshire,
22 m. from London by the Grt. E. Rly.
(Cambridge line), extends S. from the 1.
bank of the Stort, IJ m. before it.joins the
Lea. Pop. 950.
Roydon was formerly a market town ;
now there are not more than two or three
shops in the wide empty street. There is
however still a" commercial inn," The Tem
ple. The church (St. Peter's) is between
the rly. stat. and the street (from which

RUISLIP.

515

RUISLIP.

it is screened by a row of lime trees). It
consists of a nave and chirnccl (Perp.),
a north aisle (Dec.) partly covered with
ivy, and a sq. embattled tower, of 3
storeys, Dec, with Perp. windows inserted.
The int., partially restored in 1854, is low,
has open seats, and the chancel is laid with
encaustic tUes. In the chancel are three
brasses to members of the Colte family :
one on the N.of Thos. Colte, d. 1471, wife,
and son, has the figures very fairly en
graved. Of Nether Hall, the moated
quadrangular casteUated mansion of the
Colte family, built towards the end of the
15th cent., 1\ m. S.E. from Roydon, only
the entrance gate-house remains. It is of
brick, with semi-hexagonal flanking tur
rets, the upper part gone. The mansion
was demoUshed about 1770. The site is
occupied by Nether Hall Farm. Mount
Pleasant (— Webb, Esq.) is J m. E. of
Roydon. RUISLIP, Middx. (Dom. Ridepe;
anc. Rueslyppe, Ruslip, Ryslep, and
Riselip), Ues between Ickenham and Pin
ner, about 4 m. N.E. from the Uxbridge
Stat, ofthe Gt. W. Rly., and a Uke distance
S.W. from the Pinner Stat, of the L. and
N.-W. Rly., and 17 m. from London. Pop.
1482, of whom 266 are in the eccl. dist. of
Northwood. RuisUp is pleasantly situated in a
quiet rural district, between low uplands,
watered by the two head branches of the
Isleworth River, and backed by RuisUp
Park, Wood, and Reservoir. The occupa
tions are agricultural ; much of the land
is devoted to pasture, and there is a con
siderable trade in timber and firewood.
In the time of the Confessor, Ruislip
Manor belonged to Wlward Wit, the King's
thane ; under the Conqueror it was held
by Ernulfus de Hesding, who gave it to
the Convent of Bee Harlewin, in Nor
mandy. It was transferred in the 13th
century to the Priory of Okeburn, and was
seized as an aUen priory by Henry IV.,
who granted it for Ufe to his 3rd son,
John Duke of Bedford. Reverting to the
. Crown on Bedford's deaih in 1436, it was
. given by Henry VI. for his Ufe to John
Somerset, and on his death, 1442, was
; granted to King's College, Cambridge, in
'. whose possession it remains. A moiety
'. of the sub-manor of Southcote was, at

her attainder in 1378, the property of
Alice Ferrers.
The Church (St. Martin) stands on high
ground, and is a large and interesting
building of black flint and stone. It com
prises a nave ; aisles, with embattled para
pets ; deep chancel, with a fine 5-Ught E.
window ; and, at the W. end of the S.
aisle, a tall square embattled tower, with
double angle buttresses, stair-turret, and
pyramidal roof. The Dec. nave is the
oldest part of the ch., the aisles being
somewhat later, whilst the chancel and
tower are Perp. In the tower is a peal of
6 beUs, recast in 1802. Obs. on entering
the ch. the place of a holy water stoup, on
rt. of W. door of N. aisle, and empty niche
over the buttress on 1. of doorway. The
interior is good in character, has a remark
ably fine nave of 6 bays, with alternate
circular and octagonal piers, a timber
roof in square compartments, and retains
some of the old open oak seats. The
chancel has an open timber roof of 3
bays. S. of the chancel is a chantry
chapel. Both inside and out, however,
the ch. has undergone restoration ; the
body of the church some years back,
under the direction of Sir Gilbert Scott ;
the chancel in 1869-72, under Mr. R. L.
Roumieu, when the present noticeable
reredos was erected.. The font is late
Norm., a square basin of Sussex marble
on a thick circular stem. Obs. mont. in
chancel of Ralph Hawtrey, deputy-lieut.
of the county, d. 1638, and wife, Mary,
d. 1647, with their busts, "Johannes et
Matthias Christmas, Fratres, Fecerunt."
Also on S. wall, mont. to Lady Mary
Banckes, d. 1661, celebrated for her heroic
defence of Corfe Castle against the Par
liamentary army. Obs. brass with fittings
of John Hawtrey, Esq., d. 1593. Other
brasses are mentioned by Lysons, but only
their indents remain. Here are preserved
a, curious old iron-bound church chest,
with 3 locks, and a quaint carved bread
box, dated 1697. On the S.E. of the ch.
is a good sized yew-tree.
Ruislip Park, N. of the vill., is a famous
fox-hunting meet. Park House is the seat
of R. Parnells, Esq. On the W. side of
RuisUp Park, much frequented by aquatic
birds and anglers, is the Ruislip Reservoir
of the Regent's Canal Comp., a fine sheet
of water of 80 acres.
Eastcott, a large and pleasant hamlet,

RUNNIMEDE.

516

RUNNIMEDE.

adjoins Pinner West End. Eastcott House
(F. H. Deane, Esq.) occupies the site of
the ancient seat of the Hawtreys, of whom
RuisUp ch. contains so many memorials.
High Grove (Sir Hugh H. Campbell, Bart.)
and Field End House (W. Lawrence, Esq.)
are other good seats.
Northwood, on the Rickmansworth road,
N. of Ruislip Wood, is a long straggUng
hamlet on the Hertfordshire border,
created, with portions of the pars, of
Watford and Rickmansworth, an eccl.
dist. in 1854. The ch., Holy Trinity, is
a neat Uttle Gothic building of flint and
stone, consecrated in 1854. Most of the
windows are filled with painted glass.
Much of the land here is pasture, and
many of the inhabitants are employed in
hewing and preparing firewood for the
London market. The seats are North-
wood House (R. H. W. Dunlop, Esq.), and
Northwood Hall (D. Norton, Esq.)
RUNNIMEDE, Egham, Surrey,
a long level meadow bordering the Thames,
on the N. of Egham, and at the foot of
Cooper's Hill :
" Here was that Charter seal'd wherein the
Crown
All marks of arbitrary power lays down. " *
It has indeed been disputed whether
Magna Charta was signed and sealed on
Runnimede or on the Uttle island at its
upper end, now known as Magna Charta
] sland. Tradition, as far back as Aubrey's
day, favoured the island ; and in 1834 the
then owner, Mr. Simon Harcourt, treating
the question as settled, erected a small
Gothic building on the island, and in it
placed a rough stone, which a bold imagi
nation had assumed to be that on which
the Charter was signed, with an inscrip
tion to the effect that, " on this island, in
June 1215, John King of England, signed
the Magna Charta." But Matthew Paris,
the contemporary chronicler, and the sig
nature to the charter itself, distinctly state
that the charter was signed "inthe meadow
called Runnimede between Windsor and
Staines." A later treaty (Sept. 1217) by
which Prince Louis of France agreed to
leave the country with his foUowers, was
signed on Magna Charter Island — whence
perhaps the confusion.
* Denhaui's Cooper's Hill.

Runnimede is a triangular sUp of
meadow, about 160 acres in extent, some
what over a mile long, and bounded by
two other meadows, Longmead on the W.,
and Yardmead on the S.E. Between it
and the Thames is a raised causeway,
constructed at the cost of a patriotic mer
chant, Thomas de Henford, in the reign
of Henry III., and since carefuUy main
tained as a barrier against the river floods.
The reach of the Thames off Runnimede
is picturesque and pleasant, fringed with
willows, varied by eyots, and brightened
with abundant water-UUes.
According to an early tradition, the ar
mies of the King and the Barons occupied
Longmead and Yardmead, leaving Runni
mede as a free interspace for negotiations.
When Aubrey wrote, the fields had not
long been enclosed, and there can be no
doubt that when the armies of King John
and the confederate Barons were assem
bled here, the whole tract lay quite open.
An Act was obtained in 1814 for the enclo
sure of the commons and waste lands in the
parish of Egham, when such parts of the
" Meads called Runney Mead and Long
Mead," as had been appropriated as a
race-course, were expressly excepted from
its operation, and directed to be left un
enclosed, and " kept as a Race Course for
the PubUc use, at such times of the year
as the races thereon have heretofore been
accustomed to be kept." The Egham
races are accordingly run on Runnimede
in the second week of August, when the
famous mead is the great gathering-place
of the roughs and pickpockets of London.
In the last century there was put forth a
proposal to erect on Runnimede a me
morial of what is admittedly one of the
greatest and most fruitful events in Eng
Ush history, and Akenside wrote some
verses to be inscribed on the base of the
monument. But the design was never
carried out, and the only celebration
which Runnimede witnesses of the event
which has made its name sacred, is the
annual running for the ' Magna Charta,'
' King John,' and ' Runnimede ' Stakes at
the Egham races.
Some suppose , that horse-racing, far
from being of novel introduction at
-Runnimede, was practised there at so
early a period as to have given its name
to the meadow : Runnimede or Runney-
mede, according to them, being an obvious

RYE HOUSE.

517

RYE HOUSE.

corruption of 'Running-Mead' (A.-S.
rune, a race, and mode, a meadow). The
more reasonable derivation, however, is
that suggested by Matthew of West
minster in the 13th, and more distinctly
stated by John of Beverley in the 14th
century. It was called the ' Field of
Council ' (from A.-S. rune, council), writes
Beverley, because here in ancient times
the council was wont to assemble.*
RUXLEY, Kent (see Cray,
North). RYE HOUSE, Herts, the seene
of the Rye House Plot, and now a noted
fishing-house and place of entertainment,
is situated on the 1. bank of the Lea, 1 m.
N. by E. from Hoddesdon, and close to
the Rye House Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly.
(Cambridge line), 17 m. from London.
The Rye, a manor of 85 acres, in Stan
stead Abbots par., belonged in the reign
of Henry VI. to Andrew Ogard, who ob
tained the royal Ucence to impark it,
" erect a castle there with lime and stone,
make battlements and loopholes, and have
free warren there." f Towards the end of
the reign of Henry VIII., it was purchased
by Edward Baesch, " General Surveyor
of the Victuals for the Navy-Royal and
Marine Affairs," under Henry VIII., Ed
ward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth. His son,
Sir Edward Baesch, sold the house and
manor to Edmond Field, Esq., in whose
descendants it continued almost to our
own day.
At the date of the plot, the house was in
the occupation of Richard Rumbold, an
old officer of CromweU's, a maltster, a
vehement repubUcan, and, according to
the royaUst witness, the chief in the con
spiracy. The purpose of the conspirators,
according to the not very trustworthy
testimony of the approver Keeling, was
to have some 40 or 50 well-armed men
concealed in the house and grounds to
attack the Guards who were to escort the
King from Newmarket, and in the confu
sion Charles and his brother, the Duke of
York, were to be assassinated. The spot

* "Runnimede, id est, Pratum Consilii . . . eo
quod antiquis temporibus ibi de paoe regni ssepius
consiliatractabant." — Leland's Collectanea, vol. i.,
p. 281.
t Chauncy, Hertfordshire, vol. i., p. 383.

was well chosen for the purpose. It was,
wrote iiramstun, " a place so convenient
for such a villany as scarce to be found
in England ; besides the closeness of the
way over a river by a bridge, gates to
pass, a strong hedge on one side, brick
walls on the other." * Bishop Sprat
describes the place as it then was with
great clearness and precision, and as we
may judge by the existing ground-plans,
and the present appearance of the place,
with great accuracy.
rriHE Rye House in Hartfordshire, about eighteen
¦^ Miles from London, is so called from the
Rye a Meadow near it. Just under it there is •
By-road from Bishops- Strafford to Hoddesd
which was constantly used by the King when iiu
went to or from Newmarket, the great Road wind
ing much about on the Right-hand by Stansted.
The House is an old strong Building and stands
alone, encompass'd with a Mote, and towards the
Garden has high Walls, so that Twenty Men might
easily defend it for some time against Five hundred.
From a high Tower in the House all that go or
come may be seen both wayB for nearly a Miles
distance. As you come from Newmarket towaa-ds
London, when you are near the House, you paws
the Meadow over a narrow Caus-way, at the end
of which is a Toll-gate, which having Entred you
go through a Yard, and a little Field, and at the
end of that through another Gate, you pass into a
narrow Lane, where two Coaches at that time
could not go a-breast. This narrow passage had on
the left hand a thick Hedge and a Ditch, on the
right a long Range of Building used for Corn-
Chambers and Stables with several doors and
windows looking into the Road, and before it a
Pale, which then made the passage so narrow,
but is since removed. When you are past this
long Building, you go by the Mote and the Garden
Wall, that is very strong, and has divers holes in
it, through which a great many Men might shoot.
Along by the Mote and Wall the Road continues
to the Ware-River (the Lea) which runs about
Twenty or Thirty yards from the Mote, and is to
be past by a Bridge. A small distance from thence
another Bridge is to be past over the New-Iiu'i >¦.
In both which Passes a few Men may oppose great
Numbers. In the outer Court-yard, which is
behind the long Building, a considerable Body of
Horse and Foot might be drawn up unperceiveel
from the Road ; whence they might easily isBue
out at the same time into each end of the narrow
Lane, which was also to be stopt up by overturning
a Cart. " t
The King's return to London at am
earUer hour than was expected is said
to have disconcerted the conspirators.
Whatever was the cause, the King es
caped ; but the discovery of the alleged
plot led to the trial and execution of
Russell and Sidney, and years after of
* Sir John Bramston's Autobiograpy, p. 182.
t Bp. Sprat, A True Account of the Horrid
Conspiracy, etc., fol., 1685, p. 135.

RYE HOUSE.

518

ST. ALBANS.

Rumbold and the Earl of Argyll, the
exile of a great number of prominent
Whigs, and the temporary disruption of
the party.
The Rye House was a square brick
building, with inner court-yard and great
central hall. The larger part of it was
pulled down early in the 18th cent., and
now only the embattled Gate House is
left. If not a portion of Ogard's original
building, it cannot be of much later date.
It is of red brick, has an entrance gateway
with good Tudor arch, in the spandrels of
which traces of the Ogard arms may still
be discerned, and groined brick vaulting
under the archway; bays, carved chim
neys, and an angle-turret, from the top of
which there is, as Bp. Sprat intimates, a
wide view over the meadows in all direc
tions. The interior has lost aU vestiges of
its original character, except a brick stair
case and hand-rail, it having been used
for best part of a century, prior to the
passing of the Poor Law Amendment Act,
as the workhouse for Stanstead Abbots
par., and suffered accordingly. For several
years past it has been kept as a show-
house attached to the Rye House Inn.
The rooms have received fanciful names.
One, designated the Dungeon, is shown as
the place in which the confederates met
to confer on the details of the Plot. Others
are filled with rackety old furniture and
hangings. In one is the noted Great Bed
of Ware, celebrated by Shakspeare, and

brought here from its old home, the
Saracen's Head at Ware.
Rumbold's malthouse has been converted
into a refreshment bar, and a long barn
has received a counterfeit open timber
roof, some old wood-work from a house
at Hoddesdon, been hung with old por
traits, tapestry, and testimonials from the
managers of trade dinners and children's
festivals, designated " The Hall of the
Conspirators " and " The Retainer's Hall,"
and serves as the great dining room for
trade and van parties.
A fishing inn has stood by the bridge
from time immemorial. Major, in his ed.
of the ' Complete Angler,' seeks to identify
it with Bleak Hall, Isaak Walton's "honest
alehouse, where we shall find a cleanly
room, lavender in the windows, and twenty
ballads stuck about the wall," and doubt
less the original Bleak Hall must have
been here or at Broxbourne. But the
present inn is of modern erection, and
has grown to be a very popular resort for
railway and van excursionists, and trade
and school festivals, many hundreds and
occasionally thousands of visitors assem
bling here on a summer holiday. The
grounds are large, and the gardens
pretty, though not equal to those of the
Crown Inn at Broxbourne. The fishery
extends for about 3 miles, and is strictly
preserved. There is good bottom fishing.
The fly rods are limited to 25 annual
subscribers at 2 guineas each.

ST. ALBANS, Herts, a market-
town and borough (formerly parlia
mentary), and created in 1875 the seat of a
bishopric, stands on rising ground on the
1. bank of the little river Ver, or Muse, the
main upper branch of the Colne, 21 m.
from London by road, 20 m. by the Mid
land Rly., and 24 m. by the St. Albans
br. of the L. and N.-W. Rly., and the
Hatfield and St. Albans br. of the Grt.
N. Rly. The Midland Stat, is in Victoria
Street, }m E. of the town ; the L. and
N.-W. at the foot of Holywell Hill, on the
S. ; the Grt. N. in London Road, £ m. S.E.
Pop. of the borough 8298. Inns, Peahen;
George. St. Albans is the most interesting place
for its historical associations and anti

quarian remains within the like distance
of London. The objects to be visited in
and around the town are — the Abbey
Church and Gatehouse ,- the three parish
churches, but especially that of St. Michael,
Bacon's church and burial-place; the
unique Clock Tower ; the ruins of Sopwell
Nunnery (of little account) ; Bernard's
Heath, the field of the 2nd Battle of St.
Albans ; Gorhambury, where, besides the
present mansion, are the remains of the
house built by Lord Bacon's father, and
the residence of Bacon himself ; the ves
tiges of the Roman city of Verulamivm;
and the earth-works at Beech Bottom,
possibly a relic of the older British
Oppidum. History. —The town (oppidum) of Cassi-

ST. ALBANS.

519

ST. ALBANS.

vellaunus, to which Cfesar pursued that
chieftain after defeating him on the banks
of the Thames (see Cowey Stakes), is
believed to have been the precursor of the
present St. Albans. Ciesar describes the
town as admirably fortified alike by
nature and by art. It was surrounded
by woods and marshes, and defended by
a ditch and rampart. He carried it by
assault, but as his soldiers entered it on
two sides the defenders escaped by
another, leaving, besides great quantities
of cattle, many men who were captured,
or slain in the fight.* Caesar's occupation
was brief ; and Verlam remained till the
conquest of Britain by Claudius (A.D. 43),
an important British city. It appears to
have possessed a mint with the privilege
of coining, since a gold coin and many
copper coins of Tasciovanus have been
found, with the name Ver. on the reverse,
and several of his successor, CunobeUn,
the last King of the East Britons, with
V. or Ver. on the reverse, and one at
least with the name in full, Verlamio.\
When the Romans took possession of
the island they founded here amunicipium,
a dignity not conferred on London, though
already the commercial emporium of the
country.:]: -But whether Verulamium oc
cupied the site of the British city, or, as
is more likely, a new one, is not certain.
It is evident, however, that the Roman
name was merely a Latinization of the
British Verlam, or Verolam. In the revolt
of Boadicea, Verulamium was burned, and
the inhabitants put to the sword. It was,
however, speedily rebuilt, surrounded by
a strong wall, and remained an important
station as long as the Romans held the
island. The famous conference of Ger-
manus with the teachers of Pelagianism,
which led to their conversion and the ex
tirpation of the heresy from Britain, was
held, according to the earliest writers who
name the place, at St. Albans (429), and
this is incidentally confirmed by the
statement of Bede (who does not name
the place) that after his triumph Germanus
and his companions repaired to the tomb
of the martyr St. Alban.§
» C-ssar, De Bell. Gall., lib. v., c. 21.
t Mon. Hist. Brit., Plato i. of Coins ; J. Evans,
F.S.A., Ancient Coins found at Verulam, 1848,
and Coins of the Ancient Britons, Plate vi.
J Tacitus, Annales, lib. xiv., c. 33.
§ Bede, Hist. Eccl., lib. i., c. 18.

In the Eth century Verulam fell into tho
hands of the Saxons. The Roman city
stood on the low ground to the W. of the
present town, with the Ver river for its
northern boundary -. the church of St.
Michael stands nearly in the centre of the
ancient city. The Saxons, who seldom
occupied the Roman towns,* built a new
town on the hill N. of the river.
Fable is abundantly mingled in the
monkish narratives of the origin of the
Saxon town : we may tell the story briefly.
During the Diocletian persecution, Alban,
an eminent citizen of Verulam, to be more
eminent henceforward as ' the Protomartyr
of England,' was condemned to death for
having sheltered Amphibalus, a Christian
priest, and refused to sacrifice to idols.
He was led forth towards the place of
execution — a woody height named Holm-
hurst, on the other side of the Ver ; but
when the procession came to the river
the narrow bridge was found to be blocked
by the multitude flocking to witness the
spectacle. Alban, in haste to wear the
martyr's crown, prayed that a way might
be opened to him, and immediately the
waters dried up, and all passed over with
out hindrance. Arrived at the hill-top,
Alban thirsted, and behold a spring gushed
forth at his feet. Amazed at these mira
cles, the executioner refused to perform
his office upon so holy a man, and was
forthwith condemned to suffer along with
him. The day of the martyrdom was the
22nd (or, as was said later, the 17th) of
June, the year 304 or 305.f Within twenty
years, it is affirmed, a church had been
raised on the spot in honour of the first
English martyr.f A century or so later
the place of sepulture was forgotten,
though some accounts make the church
to have survived, and to have been called
after St. Germanus.
Nearly five centuries after the death of
St. Alban (793), as Offa, King of the
Mercians, was anxiously revolving how he
might expiate his share in the murder of
Ethelbert, it was revealed to him in a

* Kemble, Saxons in England, vol. ii.
t Bede, Hist. Eccl. Gentes Anglorum, lib. i., c. 7.
What little evidence there is for the existence and
martyrdom of St. Alban is brought together in
' Councils and Eccl. Documents relating to Groat
Britain and Ireland,' by Haddon and Stubbs, vol. i.
p. 6, etc.
{ Bede, Hist. Eccl., lib. i., a. 18.

ST. ALBANS.

520

ST. ALBANS.

vision that he should seek out the body of
St. Alban, and on the spot where he found
it erect a monastery. Accordingly the
King,- with Humbert, Archbishop of Lich
field, and the Bishops of Leicester and
Lindsay, foUowed by a great multitude of
priests and people, ascended the hill where
the martyr was beheaded. There, guided
by a lambent flame which descended on
the spot, they found the martyr's reUcs.
On the site Off a built a church, which he
dedicated to St. Alban ; and adjoining
it erected, in the space of five years,
suitable buildings for an abbot and 100
monks of the order of St. Benedict,
endowing the abbey with a princely
revenue, " that great hospitality might be
kept there, because the highway called
WatUng Street lay near, through which
men continually travelled to and from
London to the north and back again."
About, the abbey, in process of time,
grew up a large town, which received the
name of the parent monastery. The old
city of Verulam was abandoned, and the
materials of its houses and walls served
for the construction of its successor. So
at least say the chroniclers. The truth
probably is, that the new town preceded
the monastery in point of time, but, over
shadowed by the greatness of the reUgious
establishment, its original English name,
Wirlamceaster, or Watlingceaster* gradu
ally merged in the popular designation
of St. Albans town. Some have been
disposed to regard Ulsig, or Ulsinus, the
6th abbot, as the true founder of the
modern town, he having obtained from
King Ethelred, in 950, a confirmation of
all former grants to the monastery, and a
charter for a market, for which he erected
suitable buildings at his own cost, as well as
dwellings for strangers whom he induced
to settle here, and finally built, at the
entrances to the town, a church on each
of the three principal roads.
During its early years St. Albans suf
fered like other townsfrom the ravages of
.he Danes, and in the time of Wulnoth,
the 4th abbot, there befel the monastery
what seemed an irreparable calamity. The
Danes not only sacked the abbey, but
carried off the bones of the protomartyr,
which they deposited in a convent at

* Bede, Hist, Eccl. , lib. i., <
ingdon, lib. i.

7; Henry of Hunt-

Owensee. Great was the dismay and
distress of the brethren at the loss of their
chief treasure, but the one who took it
most to heart was Egwin the Sacrist. At
length, moved by his tears and prayers, the
saint appeared to Egwin in a vision, and
having made himself known, bade him
take comfort, and told him what course
he wished him to pursue, and departed,
leaving the room fiUed with a fragrant
odour. Obtaining leave of his abbot,
Egwin left the Abbey and travelled to
Denmark, and presenting himself at the
convent of Owensee, was admitted as a
monk. There his piety and diligence were
so conspicuous that in course of time he
was advanced to the office of sacrist, and
thus had access to the feretory in which
the reUcs of his patron saint were kept.
Watching his opportunity, he stealthily
removed them into a chest which he had
prepared, and this he induced an English
merchant trading at Owensee to undertake
to convey to England, and forward by
trusty hands to the Abbot of St. Albans.
As soon as he was apprised of its safe
arrival, Egwin applied to his superiors,
who were of course unaware of the pious
theft, for permission to return home. On
reaching St. Albans he transmitted to the
authorities at Owensee full particulars of
what he had done. The Danes denied the
truth of the story ; but the miracles
wrought by the restored relics testified
at once to their authenticity, and to the
saint's approval of his servant's conduct.
But even now the relics were not se
cure. Some 70 years after, in the time of
j-Elfric II., the 11th abbot, the Danes again
ravaged the country, and the abbot, mind
ful of the former disaster, concealed tbe
martyr's bones in a cavity in the waUs of
the church. As a further precaution he
sent supposititious reUcs to the monastery
of Ely, and entreated the monks to take
especial care of the precious charge.
When the Danes had left the country,
M\fnc reclaimed these bones, but the
monks and people of Ely refused to part
with them, and when at length they con
sented to do so, they repeated the trick of
the Abbot of St. Albans, and substituted
other bones. Again the saint intervened.
Appearing to Gilbert, one of the brethren,
he told him that the true relics must be
brought forth from their hiding-place, and
deposited in the shrine in the centre of

ST. ALBANS.

521

ST. ALBANS.

the church. This was done with great
solemnity. But now the monks of Ely
publicly proclaimed the artifice they had
practised, and declared that the true
bones were in their possession. The king,
Edward the Confessor, expressed great
indignation at the fraud, but the monks
held their own, and for a century the " true
bones " of St. Alban were exhibited both
at St. Albans and Ely. It was only when,
on the appeal of Robert de Gorham, the
18th abbot, the Pope sent three bishops
to Ely to inquire into and determine the
matter, that the monks of Ely acknow
ledged that they had been outwitted, and
that the true relics were at St. Albans.*
By the gifts of successive sovereigns,
and the munificence of the pious, the
Abbey had greatly increased in wealth,
when shortly after the conquest Paul of
Caen, a nephew, or as some said son, of
Abp. Lanfranc, was appointed abbot. To
the Norman, the Saxon buildings seemed
aU too rude for such an establishment.
Paul rebtrilt, on a scale of surpassing
magnitude, the church, and a large part
of the monastery. By a special grant
(1154) of Pope Adrian IV. (Nicholas
Breakspeare, a native of a neighbouring
parish [see Abbot's Langley], and a
scholar here) the Abbey was made free
of episcopal jurisdiction, and only and
directly subject to the see of Rome — a
privUege which was long a matter of
heartburning and contention with the see
of Lincoln. The Pope also gave the
abbot of St. Albans precedence of all the
other English abbots : a precedency which
was retained tiU 1 396,when, after an angry
contest, the abbot of St. Albans had to
give place to his brother of Westminster.
The town shared largely in the pros
perity of the Abbey. But it shared also
in the risks of conspicuous rank. In the
Wars of the Barons, St. Albans was gar
risoned for King John ; was threatened by
Prince Louis in 1217 ; and a few months
later was ransacked by a disorderly band
under Fulke de Brent, the abbot having
at last to buy him off with a hundred
pounds of silver ; for which insult to St.
Alban, Sir Fulke not long after met with
" guerdon meet," dying a strange death,

* The legend is told in full by Matthew Paris,
Gesta Abbatum Monast. S. Albani, Rolls ed., pp.
12—18 ; 34 — 37 ; 175—177.

as Bishop Tandulph, warned by St. Alban,
had foretold. Again, soon after Easter,
the town and Abbey were plundered by
Prince Louis; but no such retribution
befel the French prince.
A story told by the chroniclers curiously
illustrates the condition of a town like St.
Albans in the reign of Henry III. The
town, they say, was so strongly fortified
that throughout the land it gained the
name of Little London (Minor Londo ilia):
a name by which it was familiarly known
for half a century later. In 1265, the year
of the struggle between De Montfort and
the King, and of the battle of Evesham,
the gates were kept shut, and travellers,
especially horsemen, were denied a pas
sage. Hearing this, the constable of Hert
ford, one Gregory de Stokes, boasted that
with three of his serving-men he would
force an entrance. The gates were opened
to him, and with his foUowers he went up
and down the streets, making everywhere
some idle speech. At length calUng to
one of his men, " See where the wind
stands," a townsman, thinking he pur
posed mischief, shouted, " I'll teach thee
where the wind stands," and felled him
to the ground. Others closed upon the
luckless boasters, bound them, and hurried
them to the market-place. There they
struck off their heads, fixed them upon tall
poles, and, after parading them through
the principal streets, set them over the
town gates. For this piece of rough dis
ciphne the town had, however, to pay a
fine to the King of 100 marks — equal to
about £1500 at the present day.*
The townsmen were at this time in a
very excitable condition. There had been
another of the outbreaks which were of
frequent occurrence in the long struggle
of the townsmen against the feudal ex
actions of the abbots. A coarse cloth was
in those days made at St. Albans, and the
townsmen claimed the right of fulUng it
themselves, and of using handmills to
grind their corn. But the Abbey mills
were an important source of conventual
revenue, and the abbots stringently in
sisted on the townsmen using them alike
for fuUing and for grinding both malt
and corn, and sent their bailiffs to search

* Opus Chronicorum, Rolls ed., p. 20; Matt.
Pails, Gesta Abb. S. Albani, Rolls ed. p. 426, etc. ;
Rishanger Chronicle, p. 38.

ST. ALBANS.

522

ST. ALBANS.

their houses, and seize and destroy the
handmills. The townsmen appealed in
vain to the King and his justiciars, and
waylaid the Queen on her passage to the
Abbey to lay their complaints before her.
When the wide-spread popular discontent
found vent in the Wat Tyler and Jack
Straw risings, the men of St. Albans were
only too ready to join in them. In 1381,
with one WilUam Grindecobbe as leader,
the townsmen rose on the abbot, and
forced from him a formal discharge from
" all services and customary labours," and
the surrender of various muniments and
deeds of service. The townsmen put
themselves in communication with the
rebel priest, John Ball, and Walsingham
gives a curious letter which Ball sent to
the town. It was directed to John Name
less, John the Miller, and John Carter,
and " Biddeth hem that thei ware of gyle in borugh
and stondith togiddir in Goddis name, and biddeth
Peres Ploughman go to his werke, and chastise well
Hobbe the robber, and taketh with you Johan
Treweman and all his felaws, and no mo.
*' Johan tbe Muller hath ygrownde, smal, smal,
smal;
The Kingis sone of hevene shalle pay for alle.
Be ware or ye be wo,
Knoweth your frende fro youre foo,
Haveth ynowe, and seythe Hoo :
And seketh pees, aud holde therynne.
And so biddeth Johan Trewman and all his
felawes."*
The movement was suppressed by the
King (Richard II.) in person. John Ball,
the priest, was brought to St. Albans, and
there hanged and quartered. Fifteen of
the townsmen underwent a Uke punish
ment. Four of the chief burgesses, and
about 80 of less mark, were committed to
prison, but eventually pardoned. All
concessions made by the abbot were re
voked, and on St. Margaret's day " all the
commons of the county," over 15 years of
age, were made to appear before the king
in the great hall of the Abbey, and take
an oath of aUegiance and fidelity.
Many of the sovereigns of England
visited St. Albans, and about 1356 King
John of France was a prisoner in the
Abbey. It was often visited, too, by
foreign as well as EngUsh prelates, but
for the highest of them the abbot never
abated any of his prerogative. Thus

* Walsingham, Hist. Anglicana, Rolls ed., vol. ii.,
p. 33.

when, in 1280, Peccham, Abp. of Canter
bury, asked to be admitted into the Abbey,
the abbot only consented on his agreeing
not to celebrate mass there. Within the
town of St. Albans, and in the towns of
Barnet and Watford, only the abbot, his
steward, and officers, had right of hold
ing assizes, and deciding pleas in civil
and criminal cases, the Barons of Exche
quer, and other justices, etc., of the King
being expressly forbidden to go within
those towns, or intermeddle in any mat
ters concerning them. Indeed, by the
grant or charter of 1 Edward IV. it ap
pears, as Newcome remarks, " that a kind
of palatine jurisdiction was given to the
abbot," such as long after was held by the
bishops of Durham and Ely.* The towns
men of St. Albans sent two burgesses to
Parliament from the reign of Edward I.
(1300) to the 5th of Edward III. (1331),
when, at the instance of the abbot, the
privilege was intermitted, and only re
newed after the Suppression.
In the War of the Roses, St. Albans
was the theatre of two important battles.
The first was fought on the 23rd of May,
1455. The King, Henry VI., set up his
standard on the N. side of the town, at
"the place called Boslawes, in St.Peter's-
street, which place was caUed aforetime
past Sandeford." The Yorkists, under the
Duke of York, and Warwick the King
maker, encamped in the Key Fields, E. of
the town (immediately S. of the present
London Road). The forces met in Holy
well Street (as you ascend from the N.-W.
Rly. Stat.), the Earl of Warwick having
broken into the town "on the gardens
side, between the sign of the Key and the
Chequer," to the cry of " a Warwick I a
¦ Warwick I " The victory was with the
Yorkists. The King was wounded in the
neck by an arrow, and made prisoner.
The second battle was fought, Feb. 2,
1461, on Bernard's Heath, N. of the town;
when the Yorkists, under the Earl of
Warwick, were defeated with great
slaughter by Queen Margaret at the head
of a large force, and Henry feU into the
hands of his friends.
Our next note in the history of St.
Albans is of a very different kind. From
the time of Abbot Paul, if not earUer, the
* Newcome, Hist, of the Abbey of St. Alban,
p. 370.

ST. ALBANS.

523

ST. ALBANS.

Abbey had its skilful teachers, writers,
painters, and illuminators ; * and from the
reign of John a school of historians un
rivalled by any other reUgious house, and
including such writers as Roger Wend-
over, Matthew Paris, William Rishanger,
Thomas Walsingham, John de Trokelowe,
Henry de Blandeforde, and Abbot Whet-
hamstead ; and it was among the first in
England to avail itself of the art of print
ing. Caxton printed his first book in the
Abbey of Westminster in 1474. A press
was erected in St. Albans Abbey at least
as early as 14S0, in which year issued
from it the ' Rhetorica nova fratris Laur'.
de Guil1. de Saona'; and 'Alberti Uber
significandi,' Svo. The more famous
' Boke of St Albans,' of Dame Juliana
Berners, bears the date of 1486.-J- From
this time no more books appear to have
been printed in the Abbey, owing as
is asserted to Wolsey's distrust of the
new art, tiU about 1534, when John of
Hertford printed here some half-dozen
books in four years. The suppression of
the monastery put a peremptory stop to
further operations.
Down to the Suppression the govern-
* Among their artists were some clever portrait
painters. In the British Museum is the very
remarkable Catalogus Benefactorum of St. Albans
Abbey (Nero D. vii., f. 81) of the last half of the
14th century, which was given to Cotton by the
Lord Chancellor Bacon. It contains not merely an
account of the benefactions to the Abbey, but in
many instances gives a portrait of the donor.
These portraits are often marked with characteristic
expression, and appear to be likenesses. The
drawings illustrate also the costumes of abbots,
monks, municipal officers, and townsmen, and
depict their quaint half-timber dwellings, and
have been largely drawn upon by Strutt for his
illustrations. Several of the benefactors are
merchants, some shopkeepers. Portraits are also
given of faithful servants of the Abbey who dis
played exceptional courage, or met with rough
treatment, in defending its rights and privileges.
The painter was Alan Strayner, or Strayler, "who
for his pains (however he was well payed) and for
that he f orgauve three shillings four pence of an
old debt owing unto him for colours is thus
remembered :
' Nomen Pictoris Alaynus Strayler habetur
Qui sine fine celestibus associetur.' "
Weever, Anc. Funerall Monuments, fol. 1631,
p. 577.
t The books known to have been printed here
in the interval are : ' Johannis Cajionici Questiones
super octos libros Phisicorum Aristotelis,' fol.
1481; 'Exempla Sacra Scripturse,' 8vo, 1481;
'The St. Albans Chronicle,' fol. 1483. Two or
three others are mentioned, but do not appear to
have been verified.

ment of the town, though the townsmen
had struggled long and hard for a share
in it, had been exclusively in the hands of
the abbot. On the surrender of the Abbey
by Abbot Richard Boreman (or De Steve
nage), in 1539, all the abbatal rights and
privileges reverted to the Crown. Fifteen
years later (1554), Edward VI. granted
the town a charter of incorporation as a
borough, with power to elect a mayor and
ten common councilmen. lie at the same
time restored the privilege of sending two
representatives to ParUament — a privilege
it retained (despite the Reform Act) till
1852, when the borough was disfranchised
for corrupt practices at elections. *
The suppression of monasteries had
given the townsmen the management of
their own affairs. The Abbey Church was
sold to them for a sum of £400, for con
version into a parish church. The Lady
Chapel was divided from it and appro
priated as a grammar school. The con
vent grounds and buildings passed into
private hands. But for a brief space there
were symptoms of reaction. The Pro
testant King, Edward VI., died, and his
Catholic successor was firmly seated on
the throne. In 1556, Richard Boreman,
the deposed abbot, purchased the site of
the late monastery from its then owner,
Sir Richard Lee, and transferred it to
Queen Mary — the unconcealed purpose
being the restoration of the monastery to
its old use. But the dream of the Catho
lic Queen faded quickly away, and the
early accession of Elizabeth put an end to
aU such hopes and fears for ever.
As it had been the site of the first, St.
Albans was the scene of almost the latest
English martyrdom. On the 26th of
August, 1555, George Tankerfield was
burned for heresy in a meadow near the
west end of the Abbey.
St. Albans was Monk's last stage in his
famous march from Edinburgh to London,
when Peters preached before him,
choosing for his text Psalm cvii. 7 : " He
led them forth by the right way, that
they might go to the city where they
dwelt." By an Act passed in 1875 Her Majesty
may, by an Order in Council, found a new
Bishopric of St. Albans, with a, diocese
* At this time there were 530 electors, of whom
half sold their votes : their price was about £2500.

ST. ALBANS.

524

ST. ALBANS.

consisting of Herts and Essex, or such
parts thereof as may to her seem meet,
and may assign as a Cathedral Church
the Abbey Church of St. Albans. St.
Albans town therefore may any day find
itself elevated to the rank of an episcopal
city, and the church be a cathedral.
Town. — On quitting the N. -Western Rly.
Stat, you cross the Ver, on your rt., and see
before you the principal street of St. Al
bans, running up a pretty steep hill. The
houses, wide apart at the base, become
more closely packed towards the summit ;
but the Abbey, the crowning glory of the
town, though it stands on nearly ' the
highest point, is not seen from here, — so
closely is it pent in with houses, — nor in
deed from any of the main thoroughfares
except the north end of St. Peter's Street,
whence the massive tower is well seen.
About the rly. stat. the houses are modern ;
but as you ascend the hiU, and turn to
wards the market-place, you pass some
quaint old tenements, and find ample evi
dence that you are in an old town ; yet
St. Albans can hardly be said to look
venerable, and is certainly not picturesque.
Of late it has been passing through a state
of transition. It had lapsed into the semi
comatose condition of many of our old
boroughs, and a few years back wore a
dull, decaying, listless aspect, as though,
beaten in the struggle for existence, it had
been left on one side and forgotten. But a
new trade, that of straw-plaiting, was in
troduced, and took vigorous root; then
came the railways; speculative builders
followed, and though prosperity has not
been unintermitted, the decay has been
arrested, some decided progress has been
made, and a new impetus will perhaps
be imparted by its conversion into an
episcopal city.
Straw-plaiting is now the staple indus
try, while that branch of the trade known
as the Brazilian hat manufacturei s pecu
liar to St. Albans. Some thousands of
hands are employed in the straw trade in
the town and neighbourhood. On a sum
mer's day almost every house in the back
streets may be seen with the street door
(opening into the living room) set wide
open, and women and girls busy plaiting
and talking or singing, — or, often, rocking
a cradle with the foot, whilst they ply
their nimble fingers without seeming even
to look at their work. Plenty of houses

with their inmates so occupied may be
seen along Fishpool Street, on the way to
St. Michael's. A market for straw-plait is
held in St. Peter's Street every Saturday
morning at 9 o'clock, and is worth' visit
ing by the stranger who is in the town at
that early hour, and may wish to see some
thing of the female peasantry of the
neighbourhood and their industry. The
Corn-market foUows from 12 to 6 ; a
market for stock and pigs is held in the
broadway facing the Town HaU, and fish,
vegetables, and crockery are exposed in
the market-place by the Clock Tower. On
the Ver is a steam and water-mill (Mr. J.
Woollam's) — you pass it in crossing the
meadow from the Abbey to Verulam. It
occupies the site of the old Abbey Mill ;
was erected for cutting diamonds, was
afterwards a cotton- miU, but has for many
years been a silk mill, and now employs
some 300 children and adults.
St. Albans is a municipal borough,
governed by a mayor, four aldermen, and
twelve councillors. The principal corpo
ration building is the Town Hall, in St.
Peter's Street, a semi-classic edifice erected
1829-30. Here the St. Albans Archeolo
gical and Architectural Institute — which
has done good service for local antiquities
— holds its meetings. The Corn Exchange,
erected in 1857, close by the Town Hall,
and the Dispensary, in Holywell Hill,
are the only other modern buildings
of a pubUc character. The Cross, one
of the Eleanor Crosses, and not the
worst of them,. — like those at Stoney-
Stratford, Woburn, and Dunstable, it was
the work of John de BeUo,* — was
" pulled down by the authorities " in 1722.
Happily, the authorities left one piece of
antiquity, though they did nothing for its
preservation. This was the Clock Tower,
"the old town belfry, somewhat equiva
lent to those in the ancient cities of Bel
gium,"! but unique in this country. It
stands in the market-place, on the rt. of
the High Street ; and over against it, the
site marked by a drinking fountain,
erected in 1874, stood the Eleanor Cross.
It is a lofty tower of flint and stone, of early
Perp. character, agreeing very well with
the old statement that it was built for a
clock-house in the first quarter of the 16th
* Hunter, in Archaeologia, vol. xxix., p, 182.
t Sir G. G. Scott, Report.

ST. ALBANS.

525

ST. ALBANS.

cent., but Sir Gilbert Scott is of opinion
that its " date is probably about the middle
ofthe 15th century, or a Uttle later.'' " The
lower storey of this curious building,"
writes Sir Gilbert Scott, '¦ has evidently
been built for a shop, having two fronts
with stone benches for the display of
goods ; the one on the S., the other on the
E. One storey over the shop seems to
have been in the same occupation with it,
and was approached by a separate stair.
... It is probable, also, that the use of
one or more of the upper storeys may have
been allowed to the same person, should
he have the charge of the bells, though
provision is made by a distinct guardrobe
for their possible occupation by another
party. " In the upper storey is a bell of
about a ton weight, which within memory
was toUed at the curfew hour, and though
not, as has been suggested, the " tuneable
bell " given by Abbot Roger (temp. Edw.
I.) for that special purpose, was no doubt
its successor. On it is the legend De
Missi Cells Habes Nomen Gabrielis. Left
long to neglect and ill-usage, the tower
had fallen into a deplorable state, full of
cracks, mutilated, dirty, when Sir G. G.
Scott was in 1864 caUedin to examine it.
His report was favourable, and he was
entrusted with its restoration. This he
effected thoroughly, and by the summer
of 1867 this interesting monument of the
past history of the town was restored to
its original strength and freshness. A
new town-clock was placed in it; the
upper storey was made to serve again as a
belfry : the ground floor is now (1876) a
saddler's shop.
In the Hatfield Road (the turning on
the rt. before reaching St. Peter's Ch.),
are the Marlborough Almshouses, or ' The
Buildings,' a substantial red-brick struc
ture, consisting of a centre and project
ing wings, built and endowed by Sarah
Duchess of Marlborough in 1736. It was
intended by the famous Duchess for offi
cers' widows, but the benefits of the insti
tution have since been extended. It now
provides apartments and an annuity of five
shillings a week to thirteen old married
couples, and thirteen widows. The build
ing occupies the site of the Manor House,
a once noted academy, in which Dr.
Doddridge and other distinguished Non
conformists were educated. The great
Duke of Marlborough "built for his own

habitation a fair house at the W. end of
this borough, near the river, where he has
a fail- garden, through which passeth a
stream in which he keeps trouts and other
fish for the convenience of his table." *
The house which was at Holywell, was
pulled down in 1837.
Besides those already mentioned, St.
Albans numbers several eminent natives
and residents. Alexander Neckam, 1157—
1227, author of 'De Naturis Rerum,'
poems, and theological dissertations, the
universal scholar of his time, sometimes
called Alexander de Sancto Albano, was
born at St. Albans, and educated in the
monastery, though from some distaste at
a sUght put upon him by the abbot he
migrated to another house. Sir John
Mandeville, the famous traveller of the
14th century, was born at St. Albans,
about 1300 ; and his fellow-townsmen
long after set up a painted tablet, still to
be seen in the nave of the Abbey, in which
they claim for the town not only his birth
but his burial.
" Lo in this Inn, of Travellers doth lie
One rich in nothing but a memory :
His name was Sir John Mandevill," etc.
But Weever, who notes the erection of an
earUer tablet (1631), adds, " That he was
born here in this town I cannot much
deny; but I am sure that within these
few years I saw his tomb in the city of
Leege," and then giyes the insc. and other
particulars. There is no doubt that Man
deville died and was buried at Liege.
Two of the most distinguished lawyers of
the 17th century were natives of St. Albans.
Sir JohnKing, 1599—1637, Solicitor-Gene
ral to James Duke of York, and Counsel in
Ordinary to Charles II. ; and Sir Francis
Pemberton, 1625—1697, Chief Justice suc
cessively of the King's Bench and Com
mon Pleas, and, after his removal from
the Bench, a leading advocate for the
Seven Bishops. Mr. Peter Cunningham,
author of the ' Handbook of London,'
and editor of Walpole's Letters, lived
at St. Albans from I860 till his death there,
May 18th, 1869.
The Abbey f was founded, as we have
* Chauncy, Hertfordshire, vol. ii., p. 320.
t The history of St. Albans Abbey, from its
foundation to the end of the 14th century, is told
with singular fulness by the remarkable men who
constituted what has been called "the historical
school of St. Albans," especially by Matthew Paris

ST. ALBANS.

526

ST. ALBANS.

seen, in 793, by Offa, king of the Mercians,'
for an abbot and 100 Benedictine monks.
Though for the time a splendid structure,
by the middle of the 10th cent, the church
had come to be looked upon as too small
and mean for the monastery, and Abbot
Ealdred began to coUect materials for a
new building. The task was continued
by bis successor Eadmer, who also re
built portions of the monastery. In
1077 Paul, a monk of Caen, was elected
abbot by the influence of Abp. Lanfranc,
whose kinsman he was, and whom he had
accompanied to England. Finding at
hand an ample store of materials, Abbot
Paul set about the reconstruction of the
abbey church. Aided by the favour of
Lanfranc and his successor in the primacy,
the work was so vigorously prosecuted
that, according to Matthew Paris, the
church was entirely rebuUt in eleven
years. But it was not tiU 1116 that the
ne w ch. , the largest and one of the grandest
yet built in England, was consecrated
with great solemnity, in presence of the
king and queen (Henry I. and Matilda),
Godfrey, Abp. of Rouen, the Bps. of
London, Durham, Lincoln, and Salis
bury, and a great array of abbots, priests,
and nobles. Before a century had well
passed the monks began to think even
this ch. not sufficiently splendid. In
1195 Abbot John de Cella, having received
100 marks which his predecessor had set
apart as a building-fund, pulled down the
W. end, and collected stones, columns,
and timber for the rebuilding. But, says
the chronicler, he had not heeded the
warning suggested in the Gospel as to
counting the cost before beginning to build.

in bis Vitoi Viginti Trium Abbatum S. Albani;
and the Gesta Abbatum Monasterii Sancti Albani.
Also, Chronica Monasterii S. Albani, ed. H. T.
Riley, 6 vols., 1862 (Rolls series), the 1st part of
which is by Thos. Walsingham, the 2nd part by
William Rishanger, and the 3rd by Trokelowe,
Blaneforde, and anonymous writers ; Sir F. Mad-
den's ed. of Matthew Paris's Historia Minor, 1866 ;
and the vols, of the Annales Monastici, edited by
H. R. Luard, 1864, etc. Tho architectural features
of the abbey ch. are well shown in the large engra
vings published by the Soc. of Antiquaries in 1810,
and clearly described in Buckler's Hist, of the Ar
chitecture of the Abbey Church of St. Alban, 8vo,
1847. Newcome's History ofthe Ancient and Royal
Foundation called the Abbey of St. Alban (4to,
1794) is a prolix history of the abbey and abbots,
compiled and frequently transcribed from the
chroniclers (chiefly Matthew Paris), with a large ad
mixture of irrelevant matter : honest but tedious.

His 100 marks, and many more, were
expended before the new walls had been
raised above the level of the floor. Cover
ing them for the winter, the abbot pur
posed to resume operations in the spring
if he could procure fresh funds ; but the
rain and frost caused the new walls to
split and crumble, and all that had been
done was rendered useless. He began
again, but was again unsuccessful. Dis
heartened, he turned from the church to
improve the dwelUngs of the brethren.
Chief of these works were a more spacious
refectory and dormitory, — the monks for
the 15 years they were in progress volun
tarily foregoing their wine in order to
forward the building. The rebuilding of
the W. front and the W. end of the nave
was left for Abbot William de Trumping-
ton (1214-35), who also rebuilt St. Cuth-
bert's Chapel, W. of the transept, in a
richer manner, and effected many other
improvements. John of Hertford, his
successor (1235-60), besides adding greatly
to the splendour of the church, built a
noble guest hall, with parlours and
sleeping chambers for the use of strangers,
and stables for 300 horses — a measure of
the magnificent hospitality of the abbots
of St. Alban. The next abbot, Roger de
Norton (1260-90) gave rich vestments,
jewels, and costly decorations to the
church, and Buckler says added the 5
bays on the south side of the nave, west
of those built by WiUiam Trumpington.
But this is a mistake. No reference is
made to any such undertaking in the
account of Abbot Roger, in the Gesta
Abbatum, and the style of the archi
tecture is clearly later. In fact, as we
know, this portion of the church gave
way in 1323, and remained in a semi-
ruinous condition for about 20 years,
when Abbot Michel de Mentmore rebuilt
it as we now see it. The Lady Chapel
was the work of Abbot Hugh de Eversden
(1308-26). _ A century now passed without any con
siderable alteration in the church, except
the erection of St. Cuthbert's Screen, and
probably the elaborately decorated flat
roof, by Abbot Thomas de la Mare (1349-
96), but the work of reparation and deco
ration seems hardly ever to have ceased.
Abbot John de Whethamstead (1440-60)
placed " a fair large window " in the W.
front, opened new windows in the N. side of

ST. ALBANS.

527

ST. ALBANS.

the church, and adorned the Lady Chapel,
and other parts of the ch. and convent,
with paintings. Whethamstead also built
a sepulchral chantry for himself on the
S. side of the sanctuary; to correspond
with which Abbot Ramryge (1492-1524)
built a chantry for himself on the N.
side. This was the latest work. Cardinal
Wolsey was elected Abbot of St. Albans
in 1526 ; held it -in eommenda-m with the
archbishopric of York, and did nothing
for church or monastery. Wolsey was
abbot four years ; his successor eight.
The next and last abbot, Richard Bore
man, elected 1538, surrendered the
monastery to Henry VIII.'s visitors,
December 5th, 1539.
St. Albans was one of the wealthiest
abbeys in the kingdom. It had estates in
almost every county in England. At the
surrender its revenue was estimated at
over £2500;* but, says Stevens, "if
the old lands were united together" it
would be " worth at this day, in aU rents,
profits, and revenues, about £200,000 a
year, according to the approved rents at
this day."-)- Commensurate with the
wealth and dignity of the Abbey were
the extent and grandeur of the build
ings. "The long slope of the hill, from the summit to
the very edge of the little river, which washed the
base of its outer wall, was covered to a wide extent
with the quadrangles, the gateways, the chapter
house, the halls, the towers, the turrets, and every
variety of f orm and feature suitable to the position
and the destination they held in the systematic
arrangement. Above all this goodly array of
architecture rose, as its crowning feature, the
stupendous church in its full proportions, with its
three towers, the central one augmented in height
and beauty of appearance by the lofty octagonal
lantern and tapering pinnacles." t
Of aU the Abbey buildings only the ch.
and a gatehouse are left. The uneven-
ness of the ground between the ch. and
the river rudely indicates that it may long
since have been covered with such biuld-
ings — king's chambers, queen's rooms (the
Queen being by special provision excepted
from the rule which made it unlawful for
any woman to lodge in the monastery),
abbot'shouse, chapterhouse, library, scrip
torium, larder, granary, refectory, dormi-
* Weever ; Dugdale gives the net value £2102.
t Stevens, Additions to Dugdale, 1722, vol. i.,
P. 265.
t J. C. and C. A. Buckler, Hist, of the Archi
tecture of the Abbey Church of St. Alban, p. 7.

tory, justice hall, audience chambers, clois
ters, kitchens, long stables, etc. — as
were required for conventual order and
discipline and princely hospitality, but
over all the grass grows green. In their
general arrangement the buildings of St.
Albans resembled those of every other
Benedictine monastery, only differing in
scale and splendour, and m necessary
adaptation to the special duties of the
abbot and the nature of the locaUty.
As it stands, the Abbey Church consists
of nave with aisles, triforia, and clere-
storey ; choir, presbytery, and sanctuary ;
central tower and transept ; and once
more, after being severed from it for
more than three centuries, the Lady
Chapel may be spoken of as a part of
the building.
Including the Lady Chapel, St. Albans
is the longest church in the kingdom : its
internal length being 535 ft., and ex
ceeding that of Winchester Cathedral
by 5 ft., Ely by 18, Canterbury by 21,
and Westminster Abbey by 30 ft. The
transepts are 176 ft. across. The internal
width east of the tower is 76 ft. 8 in. ;
west of the tower, 74 ft. 2 in. The nave
is 276 ft. long from the W. wall to the
tower arch. The extreme length of the
exterior, including the Lady Chapel, is
556 ft. The tower is 144 ft. high.
The great interest of the church consists
in its being substantially the church built by
Abbot Paul in 1077-88, and consequently
one of the eai-Uest Norman churches — per
haps the earliest on a large scale — remain
ing in this country. But beyond this, it
comprises not only the early Norman plan
and construction, but dated examples of
each subsequent period of English ec
clesiastical architecture. The walls and
entire central portion of the present
church — from the fifth bay of the nave
on the N. (reckoning from the W. door)
to the first bay of the sanctuary, and
including the transepts and central tower
— is a part, constructionally little injured
by time or wear, of the Norman ch. The
five western bays of the nave are E.E.
(1214-35) ; the S. aisle and nave piers
are of the early Dec. style ; the Lady
Chapel and portions of the B. end later
Dec. ; the windows on the N. of the nave,
the W. window, and chantrys, Perp., —
some of it very late in date.
Matthew Paris says that Abbot Paul

ST. ALBANS.

528

ST. ALBANS.

built his church " of the stones and bricks
(or tiles, tegnlce) of the old city of Veru
lamium," and the visitor may at once
verify his testimony. The Norman por
tion is constructed throughout of bricks
precisely similar to those which may be
seen, by crossing the river, in the still
remaining Roman walls. In this respect
St. Albans is unique among our churches.
But it is remarkable that, whilst the old
Roman bricks were used as they were
taken — and, as may be observed, the
builders tried to imitate the Roman
manner of construction by using the
bricks as bonding courses with flints —
there has not been found a single Roman
shaft, capital, or carved stone worked up
in any part of the building. Some rude
banded shafts (as in the triforia of the
transepts) are supposed to have been
taken from Offa's Saxon ch., and used
without alteration ; * but if any carved
Roman stones were used — and we can
hardly beUeve that there were not some
among the spolia of Verulam — they must
have been ruthlessly recut. The use of
stone in the waUs was, however, almost
confined to the base of the central tower,
where it occurs in massive blocks.
This pecuUarity in the construction
deserves the visitor's attention, as it
greatly influenced the original character
and wiU account for the present appear
ance of the edifice. The rude, rugged,
as some would say unfinished, condition
of the external walls is, for example, at
once explained by the construction. The
church was built of brick (with flint in
the basement), but was meant to be
covered, both inside and out, with cement,
and the brickwork was left rough that the
cement might adhere the better. Not
only are the walls from base to summit,
including the angles, constructed of
Roman bricks, but the vouissoirs of the
arches, the steps and newels of the stairs,
the cores of the massive piers which
support the triforia, and the string courses
and mouldings are of the same material.
* Buckler, Architecture of the Abbey Church of
St. Alban, p. 134. Sir Gilbert Scott, after a
minute comparison of these baluster columns with
similar shafts in the Saxon churches at Castle Cliff,
Dover, Jarrow-on-the-Tyne, and Monk Wearmoutb,
restored by him, expresses a very decided opinion
that the St. Albans columns "formed portions of
King Offa's church." (Report on St. Albans
Church.)

The bricks are laid with wide joints in
a bed of mortar almost rivalling that of
the Romans in tenacity. But almost
every particle of cement has disappeared
from the exterior, and the interior cement
has been only partially renewed. Hence
the Norman work has a deceptively rough
and decayed aspect, though in truth the
brick has lasted far better than the stone
where that material was used. To restore
in imagination the Norman ch., we must
replace throughout the smooth cement,
and suppose it to be lined in imitation
of masonry wherever there was no
pictorial decoration. This early use of
imitative cement is rather opposed to
ecclesiological notions, but there can be
no doubt of the fact, and it is one
suggestive in many ways. Further, it
must be remembered that the present E.
and W. ends, the screens and chantrys,
are of more recent date than the main
building. The original Norman church
was 426 ft. long (the same length as
Peterborough Cathedral) ; had a grand
W. front flanked by square towers ; the
central tower was crowned by a parapet,
roof, and angle turrets. There were two
apsidal chapels opening from the E. side
of each transept ; and a very long pres
bytery with an apse at the E. end, in
which the decoration of the interior
culminated in rich metal-work, carvings,
paintings of a Majesty, the Virgin, and
several saints. All the Norman surface
decoration has disappeared; there is no
such forest of piers as arrests attention
in the long vista of Winchester Cathedral ;
and it must be admitted that in the first
view of the Abbey the severe simpUcity
of its aspect is cheerless and disappoint
ing. But this very simpUcity, the
grandeur of scale, and harmony of pro
portions, produce their impression if the
building be Ungered over. St. Albans
Abbey is, in truth, one of those buildings
which require to be studied to be under
stood and appreciated; and it grows in
estimation in proportian as it is studied.
The present entrance to the Abbey is
on the S., and the visitor is generaUy led
to the transept or chancel ; but to see
the interior aright, he should pass at once
to the W. door, and view the building in
the way its authors meant it to be seen.
Some day we hope the W. door will be
again the ordinary entrance. The gene-

ST. ALBANS.

529

ST. ALBANS.

ral impression on looking at the nave is
(or was before the tower arch was tempo
rarily blocked up) that its length is ex
cessive ; but it must be remembered that
the original proportions have been some
what altered : as the apparent height of
the exterior has been reduced by the ac
cumulation of some six feet of rubbish at
the foot of the wall, so has that of the
interior by raising the floor some three or
four feet above the original pavement,
and laying it with a gradual rise from
the W. door to St. Cuthbert's Screen.
The original pavement was formed of
small tiles. A new one was laid down in
the 14th cent. ; but the present pave
ment, of black and white marble, only
dates from about 1738.
Whatever be the impression produced by
the nave, there is felt to be a remarkable
want of congruity in its architectural
character. This, as is quickly seen, arises
from the curious admixture of styles, and
the direct way in which they are brought
into juxtaposition. " Probably no other
church," as Mr. Buckler remarks, " ex
hibits so many incongruous junctions
with so much refined and stately archi
tecture." Very striking examples of these
incongruous junctions may be seen on the
N. side of the nave, where the arch of the
last E.E. bay springs from the Norman
pier in the baldest possible fashion, and
on the S. side at the junction of the E.E.
and Dec. work of the fifth and sixth
bays ; but others equally remarkable oc
cur in the choir and sanctuary.
The W. end of the Norman church was
demoUshed by Abbot John de Cella (1195-
1214), with a view to its reconstruction
on a more magnificent scale, and more in
accordance with current taste. He failed,
as we have seen, to accompUsh his under
taking ; but the foundations and remain
ing fragments of the superstructure suffice
to prove that his front, with its great flank
ing towers, noble entrance porch, and rich
clustered columns of Purbeck marble,
would have been a far grander and more
beautiful front than that actually raised
by his successor, WilUam de Trumpington
(1214-35). The present W. window of
nine lights was inserted by Abbot Whet-
hamstead in the middle of the 15th cent.,
and is only remarkable for its size.
Looking from the W. porch eastward,
we see that while the western bays of the

nave are E.E. in style, and the farther
bays on the S. are of later date, the
larger portion on the N. Bide is early
Norman in character. In fact, the first
five bays on the S. side, and the first four
on the N. are, from floor to roof, E.E.,
the work no doubt of Abbot Trumpington.
This portion of the ch. is very fine, free
from all adventitious ornament, but noble
in the mass, and exceedingly graceful in
the detaUs. For its construction the
Norman walls were removed to the foot
of the clerestorey ; but in rebuilding, the
original piers being retained, the Norman
proportions were adhered to in the ar
cades, though, as the pointed arches rose
higher than circular arches, the triforia
were necessarily higher, and the architect
appears to have intended to substitute a
groined roof in place of the original brick
vaulting.* To form the clustered columns
of the E.E. arcade, the massive Norman
shafts were cut away, and the greatly
diminished brick core cased with masonry.
The arches of the triforia, instead of a
single opening, as in the Norman, have
within the outer arch, which is borne on-
elegant clustered shafts, two recessed
arches with a central column of goocV
design. The mouldings in the triforia
are admirable, and the dog-tooth ornar,
ment is introduced with excellent effect. ¦
The clerestorey is merely a continuous
series of narrow windows, the bays being .
marked by slender shafts. Mr. Buckler, ;
from an examination of the foundations,
arrived at the conclusion that the most
western bay was intended to have been
a pronaos or narthex.
The E.E. work terminates with the
fourth bay on the N. side, though very:
curiously the clerestorey window of the'
fifth bay is E.E., probably from this por
tion of the Norman wall having fallen, or ,
been materially injured, on the demolition
of the adjoining portion. The remaining '
bays on this side are Norman of thei"'
severest plainness. The massive rectan---
gular piers, very nearly as wide as the
interspaces, are only relieved by a slight
projection of the side faces and reveals,
the arches are without mouldings or any
constructional ornament, and plain pilas
ter shafts divide the several bays. Of the
three stages the triforium is the lowest, /

» Buckler, p. 103.

34

ST. ALBANS.

530

ST. ALBANS.

and suffers by juxtaposition with the
lighter and loftier E.E. arcade. The Nor
man piers, as we have said, are of brick,
covered with cement. During repairs in
1863, paintings executed in fresco or dis
temper were uncovered on the W. and S.
face of each shaft — so placed as to face
the congregation. When the limewash
was first removed, some of them were in
fair preservation ; but though they were
carefully oUed and varnished, the colours
gradually changed, and in some instances
the designs have almost disappeared.
The paintings on the W. sides of the piers,
and consequently facing the worshipper
as he walked up the nave or looked east
ward, represent Christ on the cross, with
the Mother and St. John at its foot ; the
figures about 4 feet high. Each of the five
differs, especially in the position of the
Saviour. In all the fiesh colours have be
come brown, in some nearly black. The
form of the Saviour is generaUy meagre, but
much more correctly drawn in some than
in others. Under the first (the fourth pier
from the W. door) is a bracket for a lamp.
On the nave face of this pier is a colossal
St. Christopher, with the child Saviour
on his shoulder. On the southern faces
of the other piers are figures of the Virgin
and saints, a Martyrdom of St. Alban,
and the infant Saviour with the fingers
raised in the act of benediction. Mr.
Buckler suggests that the fourth (first
Norman) pier was probably spared when
the first four bays were renewed by Abbot
Trumpington from a feeling of reverence,
an altar being attached to its western
face. The five eastern bays on the S. were
rebuilt about the middle of the 14th cent.,
and are consequently of the best period
of the Dec. style. In general character
they agree with the earlier bays, the
architect having evidently sought to make
them accord, but the mouldings are of
course fuller, enriched cuspings are in
troduced, and the whole has a richer
and more florid character. We admire
more the severe simplicity of the earlier
bays, but these are very beautiful, and
we agree with Mr. Buckler that " it would
be difficult to name, in any church, an
elevation which rivals in magnificence
that of the ten bays which complete the
range on the S. side of the nave, between
the W. end and St. Cuthbert's screen."

This portion of the S. aisle is groined;
the western half, and the entire N. aisle.
have plain timber roofs.
Unfortunately, in the autumn of 1875,
these bays showed such serious symptoms
of failure, caused, no doubt, by the sink
ing eastward of the great tower (to be
noticed presently), that it was deemed
necessary to support them by strong
shores, and they wiU consequently not
again be properly seen till they have
passed through the hand of the restorer.
The ceiling of the nave and choir has
been attributed to Abbot John de Whet-
hamstead (1420-40), but is more pro
bably the work of Thomas de la Mare
(1349-96). It is of oak or chesnut, flat,
divided into four lines of panels, and
painted with bright colours and scrolls,
each panel having in old characters
the monogram I.H.S. The effect is re
markable, and if not altogether pleasing,
this may be owing to the coarse way in
which, some generations ago, the whole
was repainted "in imitation of the origi-
nal." At any rate, the choir ceiling,
which is decorated in a simUar manner,
but more elaborately, has had the modern
paint removed and the old work restored
with surprising benefit. Whether the
ceiling was planned with a view to
acoustic quaUties we know not, but it is
noteworthy that, divine service having
been performed in the nave since the
restoration of the tower and choir was
commenced, notwithstanding the great
length and height of the nave, the
preacher can be distinctly heard in every
part of it without raising his voice.
The nave is divided from the choir at
the tenth bay by St. Cuthbert's Screen.
The usual practice is for the choir to
commence at the E. arch of the transept.
But here, when the chapel of the patron
saint was partitioned off, the eastern limit
of the choir being abridged, the remaining
space was insufficient for the require
ments of the monks. The immense length
of the nave allowed a portion of it to be
taken without unduly encroaching on the
ch. of the laity, and its four eastern bays
were added to the existing choir. Abbot
Richard d'Aubeney, near the close of the
11th cent., dedicated a chapel to St. Cuth-
bert, in commemoration of his withered .
arm being miraculously cured on occa
sion of the translation of St. Cuthbert'

ST. ALBANS.

531

ST. ALBANS.

bones at Durham. This gave place to a
more magnificent chapel and screen
erected by Abbot Trumpington in the 13th
cent. ; and this in its turn was removed
on the completion of the eastern bays of
the S. arcade, towards the middle of the
14th cent., and the present screen substi
tuted. The screen is of Tottenhoe stone,
soUd and lofty, entirely shutting off the
E. end of the ch. It has a centre of two
tiers of niches with canopies, the upper
tier, seven in number, being distinguished
by greater size and enrichment. On
either side is a doorway leading to
the choir. A carved cornice and trefoil
crest crown the screen, which no doubt
bore in the centre a tall rood. In front
stood the altar of the saint; unless, in
deed, as is possible, the chapel of St. Cuth-
bert stood apart from the screen on the
S., and the altar in front of the screen
was that of the Holy Cross. The screen
is of fair design and admirable workman
ship ; but it is much defaced, blocks the
way, and is altogether very much out of
place. In preparing the ch. for use as a
cathedral, it is to be hoped that St. Cuth
bert's screen will be removed to a side
waU, where a suitable place may easUy be
found for it, and an open metal screen
he substituted — if any screen is required
W. of the transept.
The Choir extends from St. Cuthbert's
screen to the tower, the four bays of which.
it is composed retaining the massive
Norman piers and plain round arches up
to the triforia and clerestoreys. The ceil
ing is a continuation of that of the nave,
but more elaborately painted, and wiU
soon reappear in its pristine brilliancy.
In 12 of the panels angels are represented
holding in one hand shields of arms of the
early English kings, in the other scrolls
with invocations to the Trinity. In the
central panels are representations of the
Saviour and the Virgin under canopies.
The other 52 panels have angels bearing
the arms of England, France, Castile,
Portugal, etc. The choir is now being
thoroughly restored, and in it Sir Gil
bert Scott is colouring and reUeving the
walls and shafts in accordance with
portions of the old work which have
been uncovered. Obs., in the S. aisle,
the low recessed canopied tomb, said by
a modern inscription to be that of the
hermits Roger and Sigar ; and beyond

it the " Abbot's Doorway," of carved
oak. The eastern extension of the choir, The
Sanctuary, or Presbytery, was that part of
the building in which its splendour culmi
nated, and must in its palmy days have
been of extraordinary magnificence. In
the Norman ch. it extended unbroken
eastwards, with aisles of the same width
as those of the nave, and terminated pro
bably in a spacious apse, within which
stood the shrine of St. Alban. The Lady
Chapel was on the S., and there were
three other chapels, all apsidal in form. *
But about the middle of the 13th cent.,
Abbot John de Hertford (1235-60) pulled
down the whole eastern end of the ch.,
beyond the second bay from the tower,
and rebuilt, it in the lighter and richer
manner which marks the transition from
the E.E. to the Dec. style. The Lady
Chapel was added to the eastern end by
Abbot Hugh de Eversden in the first
quarter of the 14th cent. The Sanctuary,
as it now appears, is closed eastward by
the lofty screen erected by Abbot WiUiam
WalHhgford(1476r84),nearlyin the centre
of the 2nd arch from the tower, and be
tween the monuments of Abbots Whet-
hamstead and Ramryge. The architecture
of Hertford's building is light, graceful,
and beautifully finished. Note the greater
altitude of the arches, the narrower bays,
the increased internal space obtained by
the comparative thinness of the pillara
and walls, and the elegance of the cusps
and mouldings. The N. and S. doorways,
after being closed on the conversion of the
abbey into a parish ch. , have been re
opened, and the beautiful tabernacle work
over them carefully restored.
The Altar Screen (or Wallingford's
Screen, as it is frequently called,) bears
a marked resemblance to that of Win
chester Cathedral, which is of about the
same date. It is a lofty and solid struc
ture of Tettenhoe stone ; is in three
compartments, a centre and two wings,
and rises in three stages of the most elabo
rate carved work. The central compart
ment was fiUed by the high altar, with its
rich dorsal wrought with the martyrdom
of St. Alban. Over this is a tier of 13
canopied niches ; the central one filled, as
is supposed (for all the statues are gone),
* Buckler, p. 47.

ST. ALBANS.

532

ST. ALBANS.

with a figure of the Saviour, the others
with the Apostles. Above these is a cru
ciform space, once, doubtless, occupied by
a crucifix. The wings have each a door
way leading to St. Alban's Chapel, with,
on either side, richly canopied arches;
above are two tiers of canopied niches,
and the whole is crowned with .a range of
rich canopied work and perforated cornice.
Shields with the arms of England and
France and of Abbot Whethamstead, and
a variety of devices, complete the design.
The east front is less .elaborate, but still
very rich. A large part of the surface is
paneUed ; the Abbey arms supported by
angels, and the arms of Abbot Whetham
stead, are conspicuous ; and the crowning
cornice is ornamented with deUcately
carved vine leaves, fruit, etc. In its way
nothing can well exceed the richness and
beauty of the carvings on the shrine, but
with aU its beauty it will, we fear, be a
serious obstruction to the magnificent
vista which would, but for it,. be obtained
when the Lady Chapel is opened to the
body of the church.
St. Alban's Chapel extends E. of .the
Altar Screen to the Lady Chapel. Near
the centre of the chapel stood the Shrine
of St. Alban,.on the beauty and splendour
of which the chroniclers never tire of ex
patiating. At its W. foot, probably, stood
the altar of St. Alban. On the N. side of
the chapel, looking directly on the shrine,
is the Watch Gallery, wbere night and
day the shrine keeper and his assistants
kept watch over the treasures of the
shrine. On the opposite side is the monu
ment of the good. Duke Humphrey of
Gloucester, and at its foot the vault in
which he was interred. The eastern, or
processional aisle, E. of the shrine, opened
into the Lady Chapel by five tall, pointed
arches, three in the central span and one
on each side. These arches were.waUed
up in 1553, when the Lady Chapel was
severed from the ch. and converted into, a
grammar-school. From the Suppression, or Shortly after,
the Shrine of St. Alban, both platform and
feretory, disappeared. Buckler, indeed,
accepting the Cologne legend, states that
" the treasure, the possession of which
had for ages rendered the Abbey illustrious,
was conveyed for security to Rome, and
subsequently consigned to the care of the
Theresian convent at Cologne, in whose

church of St. Mauritius in that city may
still be visited the shrine of St. Alban of
England."* This is, however, as mythical
as the possession of the saint's bones by
Ely or Owensee. The Cologne shrine
belongs .to St. Albinus — a very different
person to the EngUsh Alban. The only
vestiges of the shrine known in fact to
exist, were the stone flags marking the
place on which it stood, with hollows in
them, worn, as you were told, by the knees
of the pilgrims. But quite recently, not
indeed the shrine, as is commonly asserted,
but the platform or basement of it, has
been brought to Ught in the most remark
able manner. Some 20 years ago, Dr.
Nicholson, the sector of St. Albans, caused
the central arches of the Lady Chapel to
be opened, and among the bricks and flints
and fragments of carved stones which had
been employed for filling the arch, found
numerous .pieces of wrought Purbeck
marble. The Cologne myth having been
exploded, Dr. Nicholson thought these
might be remnants of the shrine, and had
them carefully-preserved. Nothing further
was done till Sir Gilbert Scott, in the
course ¦ of ithe restorations at -the Abbey,
ordered the modern waU-casing of the S.
aisle to be removed, Feb. 1872, when be
hind it was found an immense quantity of
carved fragments of stone, many of which
on comparison were found to agree with
those discovered by Dr. Nicholson. The
search was diligently prosecuted, the re
maining western -arches of the Lady
Chapel were opened, the gabled panels
of the ends and side arcades were found,
and at length the marble work of the
shrine was almost perfectly recovered.
But it was in hundreds of Uttle fragments,
the zeal of the iconoclasts having led them
to mutilate the idolatrous shrine, as they
hoped, past remedy. The fragments were
however -found in such regular order that
they almost explained their place in the
design. As soon as the general plan was
made out, the work of rebuilding was
commenced, a work of enormous difficulty
owing to the numberless smaU and shape
less pieces, and continued with amazing
patience and ingenuity f tiU the whole

* Arch, of the Abbey Ch. of St. Alban, p. 168.
t The shrine was laboriously built up, and all
the fragments fitted and fastened together with
mastic cement by Mr. Jackson, a foreman -mason.

ST. ALBANS.

533

ST. ALBANS.

was put together, as it now stands, in the
site it occupied for centuries, and in a
more perfect condition than even the more
famous shrine of St. Edward at West
minster. As reconstructed, the shrine is in two
stages, nearly 9 ft. long, 4 ft. wide, and
8 ft high. The lowest stage, which stands
on two low steps, is tomb-shaped, the sides
divided into four square panels, each orna
mented with a vigorously moulded and
cusped quatrefoil, at each end a similar
panel. In three of these quatrefoils are
lozenge-shaped openings, cut through the
marble — two on one side, one on the other.
Their purpose is not clear, but it? appears
most likely that they were intended to
allow worshippers to look at the relics
deposited within (and we know that be
sides the bones of St. Alban, which were
in the feretory on the summit, there were
relics of many other saints in the shrine),
perhaps also to insert diseased Umbs. The
second stage consists of tall niches the
width of the lower panels, elaborately
groined and traceried within, and termi
nating in cusped arches and crocketed
pediments, within which are beautifully
carved floral ornaments. Above is a bold
cornice and cresting. Within the tym
pana are carved at the W. end the Decolla
tion of St. Alban, at the E. the Scourging
of St. Amphibalus. In the spandrels and
elsewhere are figures of angels with
censers, kings, etc. Opposite the prin
cipal divisions have been detached but
tresses, terminating in pinnacles, 14 in all,
but of these only portions have been re
covered.. In the lowest step of the shrine,
which had never been removed from its
place, were 6 curious depressions, of old
supposed to mark the places of the pillars
on which the shrine rested, but which,
contrary to expectation, were proved to be
altogether outside the shrine. Fragments
of a twisted shaft with a base that fits
these hoUows have been found, and little
doubt remains that here* were the candle
sticks for the " 6 wax Ughts " which
"Abbot WUliam appointed should be
lighted" on feasts and principal days,
and for which he made due provision by
imposing a fine of a mark in money, to
he received annually of the house at Ben-
We watched him at wor ' » d admired his rare tact
and skill.

ham. With the exception of the groining
of the niches, which are of clunch, the
whole of the recovered shrine is of Purbeck
marble ; and the carving, and especially
that of the natural foliage, which is very
beautiful, where not damaged by the
puritanic hammer, is as crisp and sharp
as the day it was finished. Respecting
the date of its original erection there is
some doubt. Walsingham says * that
" the marble tomb as we now see it " was
made by Abbot John Maryns, or de
Marinis (1301-8); but the work looks
somewhat later, and Sir Gilbert Scott,
after a minute examination, is of opinion
that though Abbot De Marinis " might have
so far commenced it ... as to have the
credit of being its author, its execution
must have been long delayed. I should
attribute it," he adds, " to Eversden, who
succeeded De Marinis, and held the abbacy
till l'S26, and I should suppose the work
not to have been completed till close upon
the last-named period." However this
may be, the shrine as it stands is one of
the most beautiful extant, and its resusci
tation is one of the most wonderful ro
mances of stone-work we know of.-f
This fine work was however only the
base which supported the actual shrine, or
feretory, which contained the reUcs of
the saint. " That elaborate, costly, and
exceUent work the feretory of St. Alban,"
as it was styled by Matthew Paris, who
was in the habit of looking on it daily,
was completed after many years' labour by
"the incomparable artist" Anketil, gold
smith and monk of St. Albans, who had
been moneyer to the King of Denmark.
It was a glorious work, rich in gold and
precious stones, and cunning workman
ship. " On the sides were shown the story
of the martyrdom of the saint, in raised
work of silver and gold ; at the west end
was figured his decollation, so as to be seen
by the celebrant ; at the east end was the
crucifix, with images of the blessed Mary
and John, and many rich jewels were set
in comely order. And on the W. front he
set an image of the Blessed Virgin sitting
on a throne, with the divine Infant on her
lap. The story of the martyrdom was

* Gesta Abbatum, vol. ii., p. 107.
t The Shrine of St. Alban, by J. T. Mickleth-
waite, F.S.A., with note by Sir G. G. Scott, B.A.,
in Archaeol. Journal, vol xxix., pp. 201—211.

ST. ALBANS.

534

ST. ALBANS.

also represented on the sides of the ridged
top of the shrine, which there rises into a
cunningly wrought foUated cresting, with
at the four corners open towers with mar-
veUous bosses of crystals." This gorgeous
work was only shown on high days or at
special times, it being on other occasions
covered with an operculum, which could
be raised or lowered as required by means
of cords and pulleys — the holes for which
may still be seen in the roof directly over
the shrine. Of the feretory not a vestige,
so far as is known, remains.
Over against the shrine, the feretrarius
and his companions kept constant watch.
The Watching Loft stands on the N. side
of the chapel, and is a handsome piece of
carved oak work, with subjects from the
legend of St. Alban in high relief round
the frieze. The monks kept their vigil in
a shallow chamber, reached by a few
awkward narrow stairs. In the lower
part are cupboards — " ambrey s for the
reUquaries, and presses for the sacred
vestments." On the S. side of the chapel, opposite
the Watching Loft, is the Monument of
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, a work
for its time of unsurpassed beauty. The
mont. has been attributed to Abbot Whet-
hamstead, whose arms are carved upon it ;
and though it has been objected that the
Duke died in the abbacy of John Stoke,
Whethamstead's successor, yet as Whet-
hamstead resumed the abbacy in 1450,
three years after the Duke's death, and
remained abbot till his own death in
1460, it is probable that he did build this
splendid mont., the Duke having been his
great patron and Whethamstead tho
roughly devoted to the Duke. The mont.
is in two stages ; the lower has the chamber
for the tomb — though neither tomb nor
effigy is there. The lofty stone canopy
has a groined roof of fan tracery and
triple arches, left without intermediate
supports so as not to intercept the view
of the saint's shrine, the back being open,
but protected by wrought iron work. On
the sides are smaller arches, with arms
and devices in the spandrels of England
and France, the Duke of Gloucester, and
Abbot Whethamstead. In the upper divi
sion are three tiers of canopied niches —
those on the N. side empty, but those on
the S. filled with 17 statuettes of EngUsh
Bovereigns, ancestors of Duke Humphrey.

The Duke was buried in a vault at the foot
of his mont., and there his remains lay
undisturbed tiU 1703, when the vault was
accidentally broken into. Since then, tiU
a very few years back, the vault was left
open, and the Duke's bones, or what were
said to be his bones, exposed to the rude
handling of every visitor. In the S. aisle,
behind the mont., is Duke Humphrey's
Chantry, founded by Abbot Whetham
stead, in which two priests did constant
service. The ordinary entrance to the ch.
was for the last century through this
chantry, which suffered accordingly.
West of his patron's mont., occupying
the last arch on the S. of the Sanctuary,
is the less costly but very beautiful Mont
of Abbot Whethamstead himself, and pre
pared during his lifetime. His arms, the
three wheat-ears, are of frequent occur
rence, and there are numerous other quaint
devices very charmingly cut. The lower
chamber has a rich canopy with groined
roof of fan tracery : the upper stage has
quatrefoil panels filled with carved orna
ments, and over aU is an elaborate cornice.
Abbot Whethamstead's effigy was once on
the floor, but the brass was stolen, and
now the brass of Abbot Thomas De la
Mare, d. 1396, occupies its place. This,
one of the finest brasses in the country,
has often been engraved, and is well
known. It is a Flemish brass, probably
engraved during the Ufe of the abbot, as
the marginal insc. was left unfinished. It
is 9 ft. 3J in. long and 4 ft. 3-J in. wide.
De la Mare is figured in f uU abbatal vest
ments, under a rich canopy. In the upper
part are the effigies of Saints Peter, Paul,
and Alban ; with King Offa as founder of
the Abbey. Below are Saints John the
Evangelist, James the Great, Andrew,
Thomas, Bartholomew, and others.
Opposite Whethamstead's mont., and
occupying the last arch on the N. side of
the Sanctuary, is the Monument of Abbot
Thomas Ramryge, d. 1524, a good late
Perp. chantry, about 12 ft. by 6J ft., in
ternal measurement. The chamber, or
chantry, is divided into 4 bays, has an
elaborate canopy, with groined rodf of fan
tracery, and central pendants and bosses.
The upper stage has canopied niches,
tabernacle work, and rich cornice ; shields
of arms, figures of animals, and various
devices, the whole most delicately and
skilfully carved. Obs. the abbot's arms

ST. ALBANS.

53c

ST. ALBANS.

with rebus supporters, rams bearing
coUars with the letters R Y G E ; and over
the door the figures of ram, lion, dragon,
etc. The mutilated rilievo appears to re
present the Martyrdom of St. Amphibalus.
To make room for the monument, its archi
tect cut recklessly into the last great
Norman pier, and when in 1871 the tower
showed signs of sinking, the mischief ex
tended to Ramryge's mont., which cracked
longitudinally and threatened to fall apart.
Prompt measures were taken, the chantry
was rendered secure, all necessary repairs
were effected, and the incised slab on
which was formerly the abbot's effigy,
which had been broken and removed
when the abbot's grave was converted
into a "fannly vault," was found, pieced
together, and replaced in the chantry.
The Lady Chapel was erected by Abbot
Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) in the reign
of Edward II. In its best days a struc
ture of exceeding beauty, it has suffered
far greater injury than any other part of
the building. When the body of the eh.
was sold to the townsmen for a parish
ch., the Lady Chapel was separated by a
waU and a public passage made through
the ante-chapel, and it was not till some
years afterwards, when it was already be
coming a ruin, that it was appropriated to
the use of the Grammar School. Stripped
of its staUs and other ornamental features,
it continued to be so used for 300 years,
only in the last years of its occupation,
' more convenient school-rooms having been
provided, the chapel served as the boys'
playground. At length, in 1869, the
Abbey Gate-House was purchased and
appropriated for the school ; and in 1875
the restoration of the tower, transepts,
and eastern end of the main building
having been completed, and in prospect
of the church being made episcopal, funds
were raised by the ladies of Hertfordshire
for restoring the Lady Chapel, and uniting
it once more to the main building. The
work is now in progress under the super
vision of Sir Gilbert Scott, and will be
very complete. The Lady Chapel _ com
prises an ante-chapel nearly as wide as
the sanctuary, and the chapel proper, 55 ft.
long, 25 ft. wide (about the width of the
opening between the great piers of the
tower), and 30 ft. high, smaU, but a gem
of wondrous loveliness. The walls were
originally lined with canopied stalls, and

decorated with niches, canopies, pinnacles,
and other ornaments, and bell-flower and
other mouldings. The windows were of
varied, and some of singularly beautiful
design : obs. the charming effect of that
newly restored at the end of the S. aisle of
the sanctuary. The 6 side windows have
the central mullions enriched with figures
in niches ; the E. window has an arch of
unusual but good character, as will appear
when the restoration is completed. The
roof is formed of wooden groins springing
from niches in the piers, but hitherto has
been seen with difficulty.
In the ante-chapel has been built up
the core and a few fragments of the base
ment of the Shrine of Alban's fellow-
martyr, St. Amphibalus.
Whether the saint, or, as Abp. Usher
supposed, his name only, is mythical, is of
Uttle consequence now ; in any case, the
discovery of his shrine is equally interest
ing.* Along with the fragments of St.
Alban's shrine, were mingled in the debris
of the walls a great many fragments of
the hard chalk, locally known as clunch,
some of them exquisitely carved, others
brightly coloured or gilt, and a few with
a curious interlacing pattern of tracery, in
which were old English letters. The same
skilful mason who pieced together the
shrine of St. Alban, tried his hand on
these unpromising vestigia ; and though
there were numerous lacuna*;, he was able
to make out a large portion of the shrine-
stand, and, curiously enough, put together
sufficient of the tracery to complete the
word Amphibalus. Here was sufficient
evidence that this was the veritable shrine,
but if more were needed it was supplied
by the monogram R.W., on the side-
pieces — the initials of the sacrist Richard
Whitcherche, who as we know placed the
f eretrum of St. Amphibalus on a basement
of white stone. When put together, the
fragments will form a structure resembling
that of St. Alban in shape, but much
smaller, being only about 6 ft. long and
3 ft. wide.
We have still to look at the Transepts
and Tower, which, with the Choir, form
the great central portion of the Norman
* The "Invention" of St. Amphibalus occurred
in 1178 ¦ in 1186 his relics were translated to
the new 'shrine prepared for them ; and forty years
later the shrine was removed to a more honourable
position in the centre of the church.

ST. ALBANS.

536

ST. ALBANS.

building, and that in which the original
character has been best preserved ; though
the visitor must now make allowance,
when viewing it, for recent restorations
which, however admirably and conscien
tiously carried out, have greatly changed
its aspect, and substituted a youthful and
modern for the former venerable though
battered appearance.
Internally the transepts are 176 ft.
across and 32 ft. wide. Broadly the bays
resemble the Norman bays of the nave ;
but the triforia, which are much more
highly wrought than those of the nave,
have never received light from the exte
rior. In place of the small Norman win dows
at the ends and sides, new windows were
inserted in the 15th cent., as the Abbey
Chronicles expressly say, in order to give
additional light. The E. window of the
S. aisle is recent. The gables which so
appropriately terminated the transept
ends, and tall roofs, are gone. In both
transept and tower the triforia have double
arches, divided by the curious baluster
shafts, which are generaUy regarded as
Saxon, and which Messrs. Buckler and Sir
Gilbert Scott are agreed in accepting as
reUcs of the ch. of King Offa. These shafts
are of stone, circular or octagonal, very
rudely wrought, with various bands and
mouldings. Being of different lengths,
they have been fitted with Norman capi
tals, made taller or shorter as necessary
to adapt them to the required heights.
The windows of the N. transept have
been least altered. Internally, Sir G. Scott
has removed the plaster to show the con
struction of the brick arches. In the
floor of this transept has been laid every
tile or fragment of tile found during the
restoration of the ch., and among them
are some of the finest in England. The
S. transept and S. aisle were much altered
and decorated by WilUam de Trumping
ton, who also inserted two new windows.
Obs. the aperture, like a small two-light
Perp. window, in the great Norm, pier at
the angle of the choir in the S. transept.
It is the outlook from a Watch Chamber,
about 16 ft. above the ground, an odd-
shaped room some 6 ft. deep, cut out of
the mass of the pier in the 15th cent. — a
somewhat hazardous experiment, seeing
that little more than a foot of the pier
waU is left at the N.E. corner. This
chamber, which is reached by a gallery

over the cloisters, may have been con
structed, as is popularly supposed, to
enable the abbot or one of the upper
officers to overlook the proceedings in the
Abbey ; or, as is more probable, for the
purpose of watching the chapels and altars,
with their reUquaries, which were so
numerous in the S. transept and S.E.
aisle.* Remains of some of the chapels
may still be made out, but they are not of
much interest.
A recent discovery by one of the altars
is sufficiently curious to be noticed. It
was known that when Abbot Roger de
Norton died, " on the morrow of All
Souls Day " (Nov. 3rd, 1290), his^ body,
in remembrance of bis great services to
the Abbey, was interred in front of the
high altar, but his heart was by his own
desire buried at the foot of the Altar of
Mary of the Four Tapers; and on the
lowest step of the altar, on a smaU stone,
was placed the effigy of the Abbot.-)- This
altar was in the S. aisle of the eastern
group of altars, and whilst levelling the
ground in front of it, in the course of the
restorations, 1874, writes Sir Gilbert Scott,
" we found a little cylindrical hole (per
haps a foot in diameter) worked in two
blocks of freestone, and in this a wooden
box-cover .... of apparently oriental
character." J The contents of the box
could not be determined, but there could
be little doubt that it was that which once
contained the heart of Roger de Norton.
Its oriental character may perhaps be
accounted for by the interest which
Norton took in the Crusades from the
time when he attended " at the Council of
Lyons where it was decided to support
the cause of the ' Sacred Enterprise ' — a
decision which the monastery of St. Albans
appears not to have acted up to," and
where he may possibly have had the box
given to him as a memorial of the East.
Instances of heart-burial are not uncom-

* Newcome gives, from Amundesham's Annales,
an account of these ohapels, Hist, of Abbey of St.
Alban, p. 318 ; but the subject is more fully treated
by Mr. R. Lloyd. An Account of the Altars, Monu
ments, and Tombs existing in 1428 in St. Albana
Abbey, 1873.
1 Gesta Abbatum, vol. i., p. 485 ; Job. Amunde-
sham, Annales Mon. S. Alb., vol. i, p. 434 ; New-
come, Hist, of the Abbey of St. Alban, p. 314.
X Sir G. G. Scott, R.A., Notes upon the Burial
of the Heart of Sir Roger de Norton in St. Albans'
Abbey, in Archseol. Journal, vol. xxxi., p. 293.

ST. ALBANS.

537

ST. ALBANS.

mon among knights, but rare in the case
of ecclesiastics, while hardly another in
stance is recorded of a body being buried
in one part of a church and the heart in a
different part of the same church.
The Tower, so striking a feature in any
general view of the town or abbey, is the
most massive Norman tower in England.
It is nearly 150 ft. high, and about 50 ft.
square (at 100 ft. high, the tower is 48£
ft. by 46, the walls 7 ft. 4 in thick). Like
the body of the Norman ch., it is con
structed of Roman bricks, and rises in 4
storeys above the inner arches — triforium,
clerestorey, ringing-floor, and belfry, — and
was origfnaUy crowned by an octagonal
lantern and angle turrets, long since re
moved. The tower is carried on 4 piers
of vast thickness, additional support being
obtained by thickening the abutments of
the arches next the tower piers. In the
lower stage is an inner gaUery in the
thickness of the waU, recessed, with 3
arches on each side, borne on brick shafts.
The next stage has a gallery open towards
the exterior, with rude stone shafts and
capitals, forming the arcade which is so
striking a feature in the outer view of the
tower. The interior of the belfry-stage
has never been covered with cement, and
exhibits very clearly the construction of
the waUs, arches, lozenge-shaped apertures
for the transmission of sound, and the
substantial timber roofing erected in the
15th cent, for carrying a spire — which
was only taken down in 1830. In passing
up the narrow staircase, obs. the peculiar
construction, entirely in Roman bricks,
newel, steps, and wall, and how admirably
the newel is wrought. The view from the
summit is very extensive, and on a clear
calm day will amply repay the trouble of
the ascent. Obs. from it the great length
of the nave roof — better appreciated from
here than anywhere.
The immense tower looked as though it
might set Time at defiance. After having
stood 700 years, it seemed as soUd as when
the top stone was laid by Abbot Paul.
Writing in 1846, the Messrs. Buckler state
as the result of their prolonged professional
examination, that " its integrity as
to structure and design is complete, and
that just as it now appears so it was left by
the Norman builders," and they add that
" the waUs of the Tower remain perfectly
sound and free from lacerations ; the sub

structure is far too solid and compact, and
rests on too sure a foundation, to be the oc
casion of accidents of this kind." * Other
architects long after expressed a similar
opinion. But the rocking of the tower
when the bells were rung, had about 1830
led to the prohibition of the practice ;
and though the caution of the authorities
gave occasion to some mockery and many
complaints, it probably saved the tower
from destruction. In the summer of 1870,
" lacerations " were noticed, and dust as
of powdered mortar was observed to be
continually f aUing. The fissures increased
in magnitude ; cracks appeared in the
transept walls ; the monuments showed
signs of disturbance ; the roof of Ramryge's
chantry spUt; — it was plain, in short, that
the tower was pressing bodily eastward.
Under the direction of Sir Gilbert Scott,
prompt measures were taken to arrest the
mischief ; the tower was shored up with
huge balks of timber, arches were hastily
bricked, and a complex apparatus of
trusses erected ; and though the deUcate
tests inserted in various parts continued
for days and even weeks to show that the
tower was still sinking, it was seen as the
supports were strengthened that the move
ment was steadily decreasing, and at
length stayed. The thorough examination
which then became possible showed not
only the extent but the sources of the
danger. The faUure of the tower, even
after 700 years had passed, was not charge
able upon the Norman builders. The
great piers on which the tower rested,
and those which served as buttresses, had
been recklessly hacked away and dug into
at all times from the 13th to- the 19th
century, in some cases to the extent of
destroying the wall bondings, and the
foundations had been excavated for inter
ments. But these things, however mis
chievous, were done in ignorance, not
maUce. Another, and the strangest of all,
was clearly intentional. At the base of
the S.E. pier, a sort of cavern, 5 or 6 ft.
wide, had at some time been hollowed
out, stout props being inserted as the
work proceeded to secure the safety of
the workmen, and thus enable a hole to
be bored large enough for a man to crawl
along nearly through the pier. Sir Gilbert
Scott satisfied himself that the excavation
* Buckler, p. 117.

ST. ALBANS.

538

ST. ALBANS.

must have been made with the deliberate
purpose of destroying the tower ; the
intention probably being to adopt the
practice common in early siege works of
setting fire to the timber supports after
the mine was completed. The great cen
tral tower of Waltham Abbey ch. was
destroyed in this way by " undermining "
and burning the props. (See Waltham
Abbey.) Probably the mine was exca
vated, when the monastic buildings were
destroyed, and when it may have been
intended to demoUsh the church— an in
tention, if ever entertained, abandoned
when the church was purchased by the
townsmen. The work of repairing and strength
ening the grand old tower was carried
out thoroughly. The foundations were
made good and largely extended ; an im
mense mass of cement concrete was in
serted down to the native chalk the whole
width of the aisle ; the piers repaired, and
where necessary, bit by bit, rebuilt ; the
upper stages constructionally restored,
new bell-framings fixed, and the beUs re-
hung ; and, lastly, to the great improve
ment of its appearance, the remaining
cement was stripped from the exterior,
the mortar repomted, and the structural
character fairly exposed to view.* The
result of all is that the tower, as far as it
is possible to judge, is as strong as ever,
and capable of standing at least as many
more centuries ; whilst its appearance, if
now somewhat prim and modern, wiU gain
by the weathering of every winter. As
we stood on the roof and watched the
battlements, when for the first time for
over 40 years the beUs rang out a merry
peal, it was pleasant to feel that though
there was soon a decided movement, it
did not, even when the ringers tested the
strength of the tower by volley " firing,"
increasebeyond a steady, measured, almost
rhythmic beat.
All the structural parts of the Abbey,
beyond St. Cuthbert's Shrine to the pre
sent eastern wall of the ch., have now
been restored ; the Lady Chapel is under
going renovation, with a view to its re
union with the parent church ; and funds
are being raised for the restoration of the
* "Statement made by Sir Gilbert Scott, and
Paper read by Mr. J. Chappie, Clerk of the Works,
at Meetings of the St. Albans ArchEeol. Soc. , 1873-74 ;
Builder, 1870-76.-

nave and W. front — a costly and impor
tant undertaking, but urgently required,
as is shown by the recent failure of the
south-eastern bays. It wiU, no doubt,
soon be taken in hand, and we may hope
that whenever the church is handed over to
the new bishop, St. Alban's Cathedral will
be found not unworthy to rank among the
older cathedral churches of England.
The Abbey Gate House, the only other
reUc left of the monastery,' stands about
50 yards W. of the ch., and in old
time was the entrance to the Great Court
of the Abbey. Another but smaUer gate
house was on the opposite side of the
Court, whence the road led to t*he Abbey
MU1. The chief entrance to the Abbey
precinct was by a gatehouse S.E. of the
Abbey, on the road to SopweU. The
present gatehouse is a large sombre
structure, with a low pointed archway
and groined roof. Over the archway is
the Great Chamber in which the abbot's
steward held his courts of assize; the
upper and possibly some lower rooms
served as prison cells. It was erected in
the last half of the 14th century by Abbot
Thomas de la Mare (1349-96), when the
old gatehouse having been blown down
by a high wind, a new one was built from
the " foundations, with its chambers, its
prisons, and its vaults, and the roof was
covered with lead." After the suppres
sion of the monastery, the gatehouse
became the prison of the borough and
Uberty of St. Albans, and the sessions
business continued to be transacted in the
great room tiU 1651, when the sessions
were transferred to the Town Hall. The
whole upper part of the building was
then converted into a house of correction,
and it continued to be so used till the
erection of a new prison in 1869. It was
then decided to adapt the gatehouse for
the Grammar School; the building was
accordingly restored externally, and re
modelled inside, and is said to serve its
new office very well. The large old
house adjoining it is the Head Master's
house. The new Borough Gaol is a large
red brick buUding on Victoria HiU, close
to the Midland Railway Station.
SopweU Nunnery was founded in the
meadows S.E. of the abbey and town by
Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140,
originaUy for two holy women who had
dedicated themselves to a life of poverty,

ST. ALBANS.

539

ST. ALBANS.

and whom he found dwelling there in a
hovel they had made for themselves out
of the roots and bark of trees, and having
only bread and water for their food.
Struck by their piety, the abbot founded
this cell, and in memory of its first occu
pants having been accustomed to dip
their crusts in the neighbouring spring,
he gave it the name of SopweU. He
directed that the inmates should not
exceed 13 in number ; should follow the
rule of St. Benedict ; should dweU under
lock and key ; have chapel and cemetery,
but in the latter neither man nor woman,
neither cleric nor laity, nor any one not a
member of the sisterhood, should on any
account have a place.* The nunnery
came to have many inmates of high rank,
and one at least famous in Uterary history
— Dame JuUana Berners, whose ' Boke of
St. Alban's,' printed at the Abbey in 1486,
and reprinted by Wynken de Worde, was
the first, and long the only, treatise on
hunting, hawking, and angUng in the
language. The nunnery seems to have
had some difficulty, towards the end, in
keeping up its numbers : it of course met
the fate of all such estabUshments. The
site was granted, with the manor of Sop
weU, by Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Lee,
from whom in the female line it descended
to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood, who
sold it to Sir Harbottle Grimston, Master
of the RoUs, 1660, to whose descendant,
the Earl of Verulam, it now belongs.
Of the nunnery not a fragment is left.
The so-caUed Ruins of SopweU Nunnery
are reaUy the remains of the mansion Sir
Richard Lee built for himself on the site,
and are not of much account. They com
prise portions of the waUs, which are of
red brick with flint, the weather-mould
ings of a window and doorway, fragments
of carved stone, and a shield of arms, aU
imperfect, the crumbling waUs and ground
overgrown with ivy, brambles, and nettles,
difficult of access, and not worth the
trouble of exploration. A foolish tradition
assigns this as the place where Anne
Boleyn stayed whilst waiting for the ver
dict that condemned her to the block ;
and another stiU more absurd says that
she was privately rnarried to Henry VIII.
in the chapel of Sir Richard Lee's house.
Churches.— St. Michael's, rather more
* Gesta Abbatum Mon. S. Albani, vol. i., p. 80.

than J m. W. of the Abbey, is much the
most interesting of the remaining churches
both architecturally, and as Bacon's
church and grave. It stands on the
edge of the meadows on the road to
Gorhambui-y. The ch. was thoroughly
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1867,
when Elizabethan porches, ceilings, and
fittings — that one felt strengthened the
Baconian associations — were swept away,
and new roofs, windows, mouldings, pave
ment, and seats substituted. The ch. looks
modern and somewhat commonplace now,
but is really among the most ancient we
possess. It stands about the centre of
Verulamium, and Sir Gilbert Scott is,
we believe, of opinion that it was built
on the foundations of a, Roman basilica
or temple. Roman bricks are largely
used as bonding tiles, and worked up in
the walls. A church was built here by
Wulsin (Ulsinus) the 6th abbot, in the
10th cent. The waUs of this early edifice
remain in part the waUs of the present
ch., and Sir GUbert Scott has had all the
Saxon arches cleared of the cement which
previously concealed them, pointed, and
left open, so that the construction can be
readUy examined. The original ch. seems
to have been a plain oblong, with solid
waUs pierced only by the doorway and
small widely-splayed clerestorey windows.
The rude semich-cular arches have, how
ever, been cut through by Norman, E.E.,
and all subsequent architects, the plan of
the building altered at will, new windows
inserted, a tower and porch added, — and
now in general plan and appearance it
differs Uttle from the ordinary country ch.
The tower is Perp., square, rough-cast, and
contains a peal of 4 beUs. Obs. the way
in which the arch by it on the S. was
blocked up with Roman tUes and flints
when the doorway was shifted, and a stone
porch erected a Uttle farther E. Farther
on, by the S. door of the chancel, obs. in
the outer wall a low recessed (sepulchre)
tomb, cusped arch above, and coffin-shaped
stone with abbatal cross below, uncovered
when the ch. was restored, and very pro
perly left open and in situ.
Inside, the chief object must always be
the mont. of BACON, which stands within
a shallow arched recess on the N. side of
the chancel, and was erected by his friend
and secretary Sir. Thos. Meautys.
"For my burial, I desire it may be in St.

ST. ALBANS.

540

ST. ALBANS.

Michael's church, near St. Albans : there was my
mother buried ; and it is the parish church of my
mansion house at Gorhambury ; as it is the
only Christian church -within the walls of old
Verulam. " *
The mont. is especially interesting as
having a marble statue of Bacon, the
resemblance of which is certified by Sir
H. Wotton who wrote the insc, and
Meautys who placed it here.. " Sic
sedebat," is engraved under it, and there
is an air of verisimiUtude about it that
refutes objection. Bacon is represented
seated in his taU arm-chair, as we may
imagine him seated in his study — unless,
indeed, the wearing his hat may render
that locality questionable. His head leans
on his left hand, the elbow on the arm of
the chair, the right hand hanging droop-
ingly over the opposite arm of the chair,
the eyes gazing as on vacancy, the whole
air and attitude that of one absorbed in
philosophic musings. The name of the
sculptor is unknown, as is that of the
sculptor of the bust of Sir Nathaniel
Bacon, at Culford, Suffolk, but both are
evidently by the same hand. The Verulam
Chapel, opposite the tomb, with its Eliza
bethan entrance, ceiling, and pews, had
quite a Bacon character before the recent
restoration, when all that was modern
was swept away, and the chapel reduced
to an ordinary chancel aisle. Obs. before
leaving, the A.-S. doorway of Roman tiles
laid open by Sir Gilbert Scott. Other
monts. are of little interest, but there is a
good 14th cent, brass, and one temp.
Edward VI. The road W. from the
church, is the private road to Gorhambury,
but till about 1828 was the main road
from London to Holyhead.
St. Peter's Church, at the N. end of St.
Peter's Street, is for the most part late
Perp., rough-cast,wfth a taU tower, at the E.
end of brick, rough-cast, with three pilaster
buttresses and battlements, and containing
a fine peal of 10 beUs. The unusual
position of the tower is due to the circum
stance that the ch. was originally cruci
form, but the partial fall of the tower in
1801 did so much damage to the body of
the ch. that the transepts, tower, and
chancel were taken down, and only the
tower and chancel rebuilt, on a more
contracted scale. Several of the windows

* Lord Bacon's Last Will

are fiUed with painted glass. Three on
the S. side, erected in 1867, are by J. B.
Capronnier, of Brussels. The pulpit is a
very fine specimen of modern Belgian
carving. On. the W. wall is a» tablet with
bust of Edward Strong, d. Feb. 1723,
"master mason" of St. Paulas, "who
equally with its ingenious Architect, Sir
Christopher Wren, and its truly pious
Diocesan, Bishop Compton, shared the
felicity of seeing both the beginning and
finishing of that stupendous fabric,"
which, as the work was over 35 years in
progress, was a sufficiently remarkable
circumstance to deserve commemoration.
St. Peter's ch. being on the southern
margin of Bernard's Heath, and not far
from the Keyfield, " the ehurch and
churchyard were filled with the bodies
of those slain in the two Battles " of St.
Albans, including Sir Berten Entwyel, the
Babthorpes father and son, and other dis
tinguished partizans, to whom monuments
were erected, now all, or nearly aU, lost :
" Behold -wheertwo Ralph Babthorpes, both the
Son and Father lie
Under a Btone of marble, hard interr'd in this
mould drie :
To Henry Sixth the Father Squire, the Son he
Sewer was,
Both true to Prince, and for his sake they
both their Life did passe," etc.
Dr. Cotton (d. 1788), author ofthe ' Visions
in Verse,' the once popular ' Fireside,' and
other poems, and keeper of the College
Insanorum, in St. Peter's Street, of which
the poet Cowper was for some time an
inmate, lies in the ch.-yard. Cowper was
under Dr. Cotton's care in his season of
greatest mental depression, and the- dawn
of his recovery. He thus notes his de
parture : " On the 7th of June, 1766,
having spent more than eighteen months
at St. Albans, partly in bondage, partly in
the liberty wherewith Christ had made
me free, I took my leave of the place at
four in the morning, and set out for
Cambridge."* St. Stephen's Church, about £ m. S.W.
of the town, and \ m. beyond the N.-W.
Rly. Stat. , at the parting of the roads to
London by Elstree and to Watford, and
on the Une of the old WatUng Street, was
one of the three churches founded by
Abbot Wulsin, in the middle of the 10th
cent. ; but little is left of the Saxon ch.
* Southey, Life of Cowper, chap. vi.

ST. ALBANS.

541

ST. ALBANS

beyond the foundation walls and Roman
tiles and flints worked up in the older
parts of the superstructure. On the N. is
an altered Norm, arch ; some portions are
of the 13th cent.; the remainder is Perp.
of the 15th cent. The building comprises
nave and S. aisle, chancel with S. chapel,
and a wooden tower and spire rising from
the W. gable. The whole was restored,
and the chancel rather elaborately embel
lished, by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1861-2. The
little chapel on the S. of the chancel has
been called the Leper Chapel, from a tra
dition, or supposition, that it was built by
Abbot Gorham for the use of the inmates
of his Hospital of St. Julian. The chapel
now opens to the chancel by an arch, but
it is affirmed that there was originally
only a hagioscope, or opening sufficiently
large to admit a view cf the altar. It is,
however, very doubtful whether, even so
guarded, lepers would have been admitted
into such close proximity to the congrega
tion, while there can be little doubt that
a chapel was attached to the hospital.*
In the amended articles of Abbot Michel,
the superior is entitled Rector Capella?
Jtdiana. The eagle lectern, which will be
noticed in the nave, was found about 1750
buried in the earth, apparently for con
cealment from some undesired visitors : it
has inscribed on it the name of George
Crichtoun, Bp. of Dunkeld. From
cinerary urns, calcined bones, and other
Roman remains having been dug up at
different times in the ch.-yard, it would
appear to have been the site of a cemetery
of Verulamium.
The Leper-House, or Hospital of St.
Julian, stood to the rt. of the Elstree Road,
about \ mile from St. Stephen's Church.
Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham, with the con
sent of the convent, founded and amply
endowed it for the reception of persons
afflicted with that loathsome malady, and
appointed a number of priests to serve
in it. He does not appear to have Umited
the number of inmates, but it is said there
were never more than three at one time ;
and in 1344 Abbot Michel de Mentmore
revised the statutes, and Umited the
number of " leper brothers" to six, and ap
pointed five priests to be always resident.
Nothing remains of the buildings, but
the site is marked by a farm-house.
? Gesta Abbatum, vol i., pp. 77, 78.

Christ Church, in the Verulam Road,
was commenced in 1848, by A. Raphael,
Esq., M.P. for St. Albans, as part of a
large Roman Catholic institution ; but
dying before he could carry out his pur
pose, the building was purchased in 1856
by Mrs. Worley, of New Barns, and com
pleted as a church of the Establishment —
a district parish being assigned to it — in
1859. It is of white brick and stone,
Lombardic in style, with a campanile at
the W. end : light, airy, and convenient,
but not otherwise remarkable.
Verulam. — The site of the Roman
Verulamium is still unbuilt upon except
in one part, and its boundaries are easily
traceable. The ground on which it stood
rose gently southwards from the Ver, its
northern boundary, immediately W. of
the higher ground on the opposite side of
the river on which stands the present
town of St. Albans. To reach the ancient
city take the path from the S. door of the
Abbey, across the meadow, where stood
the extensive monastic buildings, to the
Silk Mill (the successor of the old Abbey
Mill) seen below. Cross the foot-bridge
and in the field just beyond you strike the
N.E. angle of the wall of Verulamium.
Here on your rt., within an enclosed field,
are several blocks of the waU which en
compassed the Roman city. Of late
years they have been much reduced, and
are slowly crumbling away, but they
show as well as any we may visit the
character of the old Roman waU. The
outside is of flints, large and in regular
layers, the core or hearting of rough rub
ble, set in a bedding of mortar of great
tenacity, and held together by bonding-
courses of two layers of bricks or tiles,.
the tiles and the bed of mortar between
them being of about the same thickness.
The bonding-courses are nearly 3 feet
apart, and carried through the substance
of the wall, which is about 12 feet thick,
closely resembhng the Roman wall of
London. The bricks in the two walls
are almost identical in size and character.
Those of Verulam are from 14 to 16 in.
long, 12 in. wide, and li to 2 in. thick;
their weight is from 20 to 22 lb.
From this N.E. angle the short Une of
wall northwards to the river is marked by
uneven high ground and a row of firs.
Returning to the path from the MU1, a
straight embankment marks the site of.

ST. ALBANS.

542

ST. ALBANS.

the wall, which extends before you in a
south-westerly direction for about § m.,
and you soon enter on a pathway over
hung with trees that would be attractive
under any circumstances, but is especially
so when you discover that you are on
the outer edge of the wall of Verulam,
with the mass of the wall on one hand,
the fosse on the other. The fosse of
Verulam is better preserved than that of
any other Roman city in England. It ap
pears to have varied in width according
to circumstances, and here was probably
30 ft. across. It is overgrown with firs,
maples, elms, and a few oaks, some of them
trees of tolerable size, and an abundance
of brambles and underwood. A path
winds along the bottom, now of course
dry. On the rt. of the walk the wall is
frequently visible, and in some places well
shown, but it is better seen from the
other (or field) side, where it rises 10 or
12 ft. from the ground. It is for the
most part overgrown with ivy, and shaded
by tall trees, but there is now none of
that "good liquorice," which, according
to old Fuller, " groweth naturally out of
the ruinous waUs of Verulam."
At the end of this pretty walk the wall
makes a sharp turn to the N.W., in which
direction it continues for nearly £ of
a mUe. Quitting the path, turn to
the rt. along the road to Gorhambury,
and you will see in the field on your
rt., running parallel with the road,
the low wall and fosse, the latter,
however, much filled up, and in places
neither wall nor fosse visible. Enter the
field by the first swing-gate, and a few
yards wiU place you again on the top of
the wall, where on the rt. (E.) will be
noticed an abrupt termination of the fosse,
which for some distance forwards has
been pretty much fiUed in and ploughed
over. Returning to the road, you may
take the lane on rt. — the ancient road
across the city — and a clap-gate a few
yards down on the 1., will put you again
on the line of wall, a good fragment of
which wiU be seen on the 1. on entering
the field, with the partially filled fosse
below, now smooth grass, looking in
autumn like a hollow in the South Downs.
Beyond (on the other side of the footpath
and. enclosed) the fosse is deeper, the
bottom thick with underwood, the sides
bordered with oak, ash, and hazel. Cross

the fosse at the first gate and pass through
the wall by a section, which well exhibits
its structure. Onwards the line of wall is
perfectly plain, but you can only occa
sionally make out a fragment of the
masonry. The fosse, however, continues
broad and deep, but overgrown with wood
and brambles, and enclosed. Presently
the Une turns abruptly to the N., and you
reach a great mass of the waU, marked by
a full-grown oak, and locally known as
Gorhambury Block. This is the end of
the wall now, and is probably very nearly
its original termination. A portion may
have been destroyed in. constructing, the
Gorhambury road, which passes directly
N. of Gorhambury Block, but no trace of
a wall has been found in the meadow
below, along the farther side of which
flows the Ver, and which once was plainly
overflowed by it. Along the river side of
the city, there was probably no wall of
masonry, but only an earthen embank
ment to confine the waters, which here
were made to form a large pool or lake.
The river was a sufficient defence on this
side of the city.
The wall which we have thus peram
bulated is about IJ m. in length, the river
frontage J m. The area enclosed is ovate,
the smaUer end of the elUpse being at the
W., the length about | of a imle ; the
greatest width nearly J a mile ; the surface
about 150 acres. This, as Roman cities were
laid out, with large spaces set apart for the
forum, temples, basiUca, theatre, baths,
and villas surrounded by their grounds
and gardens, would not aUow of a large
population ; but traders and the bulk of
the poorer inhabitants would dwell in a
suburb of wooden huts, outside the great
wall, and defended from marauders by an
earthen vallum — of which vestiges may
yet be traced. A main street traversed
the city from E. to W., and another
crossed it from S. to N., running along the
Une of the Watting Street, the hollow
lane now leading from St. Stephen's to St.
Michael's ch. Newcome, writing in 1794,
says that " but a few years since the ruins
of that south gate were dug up ; " * a
portion of the road was laid bare and de
stroyed as late as 1826. The roads appear
to have been from 24 ft. to 28 ft. wide.
The site of Verulam is now occupied by
* Newcome, Hist, of St. Albans, p. 28

ST. ALBANS.

543

ST. ALBANS.

well-cultivated fields, except the short
space from St. Michael's ch. — which stands
near the centre of old Verulam, and ac
cording to some sanguine antiquaries
marks the site of the Temple of Apollo — to
the bridge over the Ver. Except the outer
walls, no relic of the ancient city is visi
ble, though a century and a half ago some
ruins appear to have been standing.* The
plough occasionally turns up a Roman
coin, a few tesserae, or a broken piece
of pottery. When a, deeper trench is
made, walls of houses and pavements are
met with, layers of burnt wood turned up,
and sometimes the lines of streets are
crossed; but no systematic or extended
investigation has been made ; and Verulam,
for four hundred years the monument of
Roman enterprise and power, and a centre
of Roman civiUsation, Ues Uke another
Nineveh, Troy, or PompeU, awaiting a
Layard or Scbliemann to disinter its
buried treasures. Probably, however,
little of value would be discovered. For
centuries the fallen city was used as a
quarry by the Abbots of St. Albans for
building the Abbey ch. and monastic
buildings, and the churches they erected
at the entrance to the town, and doubt
less by the townspeople for their houses,
and for years its ruins were strictly
searched, and whatever would now be
regarded as of especial value carried away
or destroyed.
Matthew Paris relates with evident
enjoyment the doings of Ealdred and
Eadmer, the 8th and 9th Abbots of St.
Albans. Minded to buUd a new and more
worthy ch. of the martyr, in place of the
plain structure which then served the pur
pose, and to improve the town, Ealdred
caused extensive excavations to be made
in the old city of Verlamcestre with a view
to obtaining the necessary materials, and
uprooted the subterranean vaults and
soUd arches which had come to be the
common haunts of robbers, malefactors,
fugitives from justice, and harlots. In
doing so, his workmen found not only
stones, bricks, paving tiles, and abundant
materials of aU kinds, but in digging deep
trenches by the river, exhumed oaken
planks covered with pitch, and with the
* Stukeley, Plan of the remaining Walls and City
of Verolamium ; Vetusta Monumenta of the Soc.
of Ant., vol. i., plate i., 1721.

nails still in them, oars, anchors, and
other maritime implements, as well as
great quantities of shell-fish, and other
manifest signs that the river had formerly
been navigable up to the ancient city ;
and these places the people caUed Oyster-
hiU, Shellford, Anchorpool, and Fishpool
(the first and last of which names, by the
way, are still retained). But the most
wonderful discovery was a deep cave
which had formerly been the abode of a
great dragon. Ealdred seemed indeed to
be wholly absorbed in these researches ;
he coUected a great store of materials, but
he had done nothing towards building his
ch. when he went the way of aU flesh.
His successor, Eadmar, continued the
work, and was rewarded by discoveries
that would now be regarded as of price
less value. In overturning the founda
tions of a great palace, his workmen found
in a recess hollowed out in » waU a
treasure as precious, had it been preserved,
as that found by SchUemann in the palace
at Hissarlik — a coUection of books and
rolls. But as they related, or were supposed
to relate, to idol worship, and especiaUy
to the rites of Apollo and Mercury —
" caUed by the EngUsh Woden," — Eadmar
burned them all, sparing only one. This,
a volume strongly bound in oak, with
bands of silver, and an inscription in
letters of gold, was written in a language
that could not be deciphered till an aged
priest, named Unwona, was found, who
pronounced it to be a History of St.
Alban written in the tongue of the ancient
Britons. At the request of the Abbot,
Unwona translated it into Latin, when,
wonderful to relate, immediately he had
completed his revision, the original crum
bled into dust. Further, among the ruins
Eadmar found many stone tablets, roofing
tiles, columns, and other materials for
building, which he reserved for his ch. ;
and in the foundations of houses and
subterranean vaults great numbers of
vases, amphora?, and various other fictile
and turned wares, as well as glass vessels
containing the ashes of the dead. Also,
under faUen temples he found altars and
idols, and coins and medals of divers
kinds, aU of which, by order of the Abbot,
were broken in pieces.*
Later abbots, as we may see by the
* Matthew Paris, Gesta Abbatum, pp. 24—28.

ST. ALBANS.

544

ST. ALBANS.

materials of the Abbey, and St. Michael's
ch., continued to spoU the ancient build
ings, but we have no detailed record of
their proceedings. In recent years there
have been found about St. Michael's and
towards the Gorhambury Block, besides
the tiles, tesserae, and pottery already
mentioned, foundation waUs, mostly of
smaU houses, with traces of fresco paint
ing, floors of red and white tiles, vases,
household pottery, and coins. But the
most remarkable find, and one that shows
how much may yet repay the careful ex
cavator, was that of a theatre — the only
Roman theatre found in England — which.
was discovered in 1847, by Mr. R. G.
Lowe, in the field on the 1. of the Gor
hambury road, immediately W. of St.
Michael's ch., from which it is about
300 yards distant. It is of the usual
form, 193 ft. in diameter; the walls
double, with a passage of about 9 ft.
between them. The stage appears to
have been only about 46 ft. wide and 9 ft.
deep ; the orchestra and pra*;cinctio about
70 ft. ; the auditorium contained about
20 rows of seats. The waUs were Uned
with slabs of marble, and decorated with
frescoes, the colours of which when
exhumed were still bright and fresh.
Among the ruins were found fragments
of pottery, a brass fibula, and 170 coins,
ranging from Tiberius to Gratian. Foun
dations of buildings were found on the
other side of the street ; but the land is
valuable, and the excavations were very
soon fiUed in. The theatre was reopened
on occasion of the visit of the British
Archaeological Association in 1869, but
closed when the visitors departed, and
now wears once more the appearance of
an ordinary corn-field. *
Bernard's Heath, the theatre of the
second Battle of St. Albans, fought on
Shrove Tuesday, the 17th of Feb., 1461,
Ues a Uttle way N. of St. Peter's. War
wick, with whom was the king, Henry VI.,
had hastened from London with such
forces as he could muster, and encamped
on Bernard's Heath, in order to check the
great army which Queen Margaret had
collected in the north, and which was
* R. G. Lowe, Description of the Roman Theatre
at Verulam : Proceedings of St. Albans Archit.
and Archaeol. Soc, 1848. For the Coins see J.
Evans, F.S.A., Account of Coins found at Verulam,
1848.

advancing rapidly on London. Passing
round the town, the Queen's troops came
into contact with Warwick's men in the
lane N. of St. Peter's ch., forced their
way through, and deployed on the Heath.
The two armies thus brought face to face
fought fiercely, and the result was for
long doubtful ; but the northerners were
strongest in numbers and elated with
success, and Warwick's men were in the
end utterly routed. " In this battle,"
writes Hall, "were slain 2300 men, and
not above, of whom no noble man is
remembered save Sir John Gray."
More than three centuries have since
passed, and Bernard's Heath (No Man's
Land was its synonym then) has been
lessened in extent by enclosures, divided
by roads, broken up for brick and tile
works, and gravel pits, and otherwise
encroached upon ; but there is still a rough
wild gorse-clad common, some half a
mUe across, pleasant and picturesque to
ramble over, and where the historical
student may test his skill in making out
the course of that Shrove Tuesday fight.
At the northern end of Bernard's Heath,
commencing about half a mile up the
Harpenden road and running in a N.E.
direction for over three-quarters of a mile
to the Sandridge road, is the remarkable
entrenchment known as Beech Bottom,
some 30 to 40 ft. wide and 20 to 30 ft.
deep, resembling roughly a great railway
cutting, but now overgrown with trees,
ferns, and underwood. A few years ago
you could walk along it from end to end,
but the southern half has been cleared
and converted into a volunteer rifle range,
and the northern end severed by the
Midland Rly. being carried across it.
The best way to reach the open part is to
proceed along the Sandridge road to the
lane on the St. Albans side of the rail
way bridge, where it can be readily ex
amined. Evidently an artificial work, the ram
part formed of the excavated earth stiU
in many places perfect, antiquaries were
incUned to regard Beech Bottom as a por
tion of a Roman sunken road, its direction
being towards Verulam. But an ingenious
and more feasible explanation has been
proposed by Mr. Samuel Sharpe* who
regards it as a portion of the defences —
* Archseol. Journal, vol. xxii., p. 299.

ST. ALBANS.

54*]

SANDERSTEAD.

the outer wall and fosse mentioned by
Csesar — of the Oppidum of CassiveUaunus.
Mr. Sharpe with much difficulty was able,
as he believed, to make out the entire cfr-
cumvallation ; and, after carefully going
over the ground, we believe his general
conclusions to be well founded.
Starting from the Ver at Sopwell Mill,
S.E. of St. Albans, the line of fosse and
wall runs N.E. past Camp House and
across the Hatfield road to Beaumont,
where it turns N., and bending round,
N.W. , joins the northern end of Beech
Bottom. From the southern end of Beech
Bottom it can easily be traced for some
distance westward, when it turns south
ward and joins the Ver midway between
St. Michael's ch. and Gorhambury Block.
No other portion is nearly so perfect as
Beech Bottom ; indeed nearly everywhere
else, as Mr. Sharpe remarks, " the British
ditch has very much been filled up and
its space reclaimed for" the purposes of agri
culture ; and the yearly ploughing has given
it an appearance of a natural depression
in the ground. But here and there we find
traces of art sufficiently clear to enable
us to follow the line on the map : " a
statement we can corroborate. Mr. Sharpe
supposes that besides this outer defence,
"a bank was raised between the town
and the river ; " but we find no traces of
it, and beUeve that the Oppidum being on
high ground, the townsmen trusted, as
Caesar says, to the morasses of the Ver
for their river-side defence.
The circumvaUation as above traced is
about 4J miles in circuit, and encloses the
town of St. Albans, Bernard's Heath, and
several farms. The area enclosed is about
1800 acres. The extent of the area and
character of the outworks quite accord
with what Caesar says of the Oppidum,
with its admirable defences of fosse,
vaUum, and marshes, and the great quan
tities of cattle he found within ; it being,
in fact, not merely a fortified town, with
scattered groups of houses, fields, and
cattle within the enclosure, but also an
entrenched stronghold in which the peo
ple of the surrounding country with their
herds could take refuge on the approach
of an enemy. And the great extent of
wall and marsh explains how it was that
Cassar was unable to invest it, and how
when his soldiers stormed it on two sides,
the Britons were able to make their way

out by another.* If this speculation as
to the site and defences of the Oppidum
be well founded, we have in St. Albans
the instance of the still existing fosse
and vallum of a British as well as of a
Roman town — each being unique in this
country. ST. ANNE'S HILL, Surrey
(see Anne's Hill, St.)
ST. GEORGE'S HILL, Surrey
(see George's Hill, St.)
ST. MARGARET'S, Herts (see
Stanstead St. Margaret's).
ST. MARY'S CRAY, Kent (see
Cray, St. Mary's).
ST. PAUL'S CRAY, Kent (see
Cray, St. Paul's).
SANDERSTEAD, Surrey, a
pretty secluded vill. on the road to War-
Ungham, 3J m. S.E. from the E. Croydon
Stat, of the L., B., and S. C. Rly., and 13
m. from London : pop. 267.
The village is charmingly situated on
an outlyer of Thanet sand on the edge of
the chalk Downs, 576 ft. above the sea
level, in the midst of a varied and pic
turesque country, surrounded by extensive
woods and broad downs, and reached by
pleasant country lanes abounding in wild
flowers and singing birds, and especially
rich in nightingales. The manor was
purchased of Richard Gresham in 1591
by John Ownsted, sergeant of the car
riages to Queen EUzabeth. Dying without
issue, he devised the manor to his cousin
Harman Attwood and his two sisters.
Attwood purchased his sisters' shares, and
the property continued in his descendants
till 1759, when John Atwood (the moder
nized mode of spelUng the name) having
no children, bequeathed it to a nephew,
Thos. Wigsell. In 1807 it passed by
bequest to Atwood Wigsell Taylor, who
assumed the name and arms of Wigsell,
and is now the property of his son Atwood
Dalton WigseU, Esq.
Sanderstead Church (All Saints) is a

Caesar, De Bell. Gall., lib. v., cap. xxi.
35

SANDOWN PARK.

546

SANDRIDGE.

pretty little village ch. of flint and stone,
mostly Perp. in style, but has been re
stored and embeUished, and painted glass
inserted in the windows. It consists of
nave and aisles, chancel, and tower and
shingled spire at the W. end. Monts.
on N. Wall, John Ownsted, d. 1600, ser
vant to Queen Elizabeth, and " Sergeant
of her Majesties Carriages by ye space of
40 years;" white marble, with kneeling
effigy in armour under an arch. On
spandrel of nave arch, mural mont. with
effigy of Joanna Ownsted, d. 1587. End
of 8. aisle, low altar tomb, with recum
bent effigy of Mary BedeU, d. 1665, wife
successively of Ralph Hawtrey and Lewis
Audeley. In the ch.-yard is the grave
(chosen by himself) of the Rt. Hon. Sir
Francis Bond Head, Lieut.-Governor of
Upper Canada, and Author of ' Rides
across the Pampas,' and ' Bubbles from the
Brunnen,' d. at Croydon 1875. Two large
and some smaUer old yew-trees are in the
ch.-yard ; the lich-gate is recent. Close
to the church is Sanderstead Court, the
seat of A. D. Wigsell, Esq. Obs. the fine
elms in the park. The stately castellated
mansion N.E. of Sanderstead Court is
Selsdon, in Croydon par. (See Croydon.)
Purley, which gave its second title to
Home Tooke's ' n-reooeiTa, or the Diver
sions of Purley,' IJ m. W., is in Sander-
steadpar., but close to Caterham Junction,
under which heading it is noticed.
SANDOWN PARK, Esher,
Surrey, a piece of sloping ground of
about 120 acres, enclosed and laid out as
a racecourse, is situated on the 1. of the
L. and S.-W. Rly., a short distance past
the Esher Stat. : the entrance is on the
rt. of the road as you enter Esher village,
14 m. from London by road, 15 m. by
rly. Sandown (of old Sandon) manor was
part of the endowment of the Hospital of
St. Mary and All Saints, or Sandon, which
stood E. of Sandown Park and near the
rly. stat. (See Esher, p. 203.) The ground
forming Sandown Park has been laid out.
specially for horse-racing, but space is
provided for polo, croquet, and other open-
air pastimes. There are two courses, one
for flat races, and the other for steeple
chases. The Flat course affords a straight
run of nearly a mile. Above it is a
terrace on which are four Grand Stands

— one for royal personages, one for sub
scribers, one for the public, and one
for the press — a little beyond the last
being the judge's seat. The steeplechase
course has ten or twelve leaping-fences,
and a water jump 14 ft. wide. Beyond
the stands, the ground rises into a
wooded knoll, on which are pleasant
walks shaded by groves of beech, elm,
and fir. The general direction of the
ground is in the Sandown Park Club.
The park was opened, and the first race
meeting held, on April 22, 1875.
SANDRIDGE, Herts, 2\ m.
N.E. of St. Albans, on the road to Whet-
hampstead : pop. 820.
At the Dom. Survey Sandrige formed
part of the demesne of St. Albans Abbey.
It was said to have been given by King
Egfrid to the monastery in 796, and was
held by it till the Dissolution, Dec. 1539.
A few months after, May 1540, the manor
was given by Henry VIII. to Ralph Row-
let, on the death of whose son it passed
to his sister, the wife of Ralph Jennings,
in whose family it remained tiU, on the
death of a later Ralph Jennings, it de
scended to his three daughters, of whom
Sarah, the youngest, was the wife of
Colonel ChurchUl, afterwards the great
Duke of Marlborough. Churchill pur
chased the shares of the other sisters, and
became possessed of the entire manor. It
was from this manor he took his first
title, Baron ChurchUl of Sandridge.
The vill. stands high, on a byroad
through which there is a considerable
local traffic ; consists of a few cottages,
wheeler's and general shops ; two or three
comfortable looking private houses ; a
couple of inns, the Rose and Crown and
Queen's Head; a good schoolroom off
the road on the 1., and the old dingy
looking ch. on the rt. The men are chiefly
employed in agriculture ; straw-plaiting
occupies many of the females.
The Church (St. Leonard) comprises
nave, aisles, chancel, and battlemented
tower at the W. end. The. body of the
ch. is rough-cast, the tower of flint and
red brick ; commonplace in character and
uninteresting. The interior is better. The
nave is divided from the aisles by oc
tagonal shafts with beak mouldings
(recarved) and round arches, and the N.
aisle has some good detaUs. Bernard's

SARRATT.

547

SEAL.

Heath, on which was fought the second
battle of St. Albans, is in this parish. (See
6t. Albans, p. 544.)
SARRATT, Herts, on the Buck
inghamshire border, 4 m. N.W. from
Rickmansworth, which is the nearest rly.
stat. : pop. 654.
The houses Ue in widely separated
groups, the largest collection being at
Sarratt's Green, on the King's Langley
side of the par., where the road widens
into a broad green, on either side of
which is a row of small shops, cottages,
and homesteads, not too closely packed.
Sarratt, " so called," says Chauncy,
" from Syret, a Saxon, who, I suppose, was
an ancient possessor of it," belonged to
the Abbey of St. Albans from the time of
Edward II. to the Dissolution. Lying away
from any main line of road, and from the
raU, it retains its primitive rusticity
unaltered ; stands in a, pleasant neigh
bourhood, and has an interesting old
church. The field walk to the ch. from
Sarratt's Green, about a nnle, carries
you along high ground with, on your rt.,
an open stretch of undulating country,
bounded by fine old woods, and the Uttle
Chess river winding through the broken
valley. The Church (of the Holy Cross) is a
small cruciform E.E. building, with a,
long chancel, and a W. tower, the upper
part of which is of early brickwork,
ending in a gable roof. It had f aUen into
bad condition, but in 1866 was tho
roughly restored, both inside and out,
under the direction of Sir G. G. Scott,
R.A. ; the transepts extended westwards
so as to form aisles ; nine new windows
inserted ; the plaster ceiling removed
and the old timber roof exposed ; new
open oak seats added, and the E. window
fiUed with painted glass, by Clayton and
Bell, representing the Crucifixion and
Ascension. In removing the whitewash
from the transepts and over the chancel
arch, remains of some 13th or early 14th
cent, paintings in distemper, apparently
of events in the Ufe of Christ, were un
covered : the most perfect (on the W.
wall of the S. transept) was preserved.
AU the walls had been coloured of a deep
red, and decorated with flowers, fruit, and
foUage. S. of the chancel are a large
and a smaUer piscina, and on the N.

an ambry. Tho pulpit is old and note
worthy. Obs. on S. wall the 17th cent.
mont., with small kneeling effigies of
William Kingesley, with three sons behind
him, and opposite his wife and daughter.
Sarratt Hall (R. Branton Day, Esq.), at
Micklefield Green, 1 m. S.E. from the ch.,
is the chief seat.
SEAL, Kent, a village on the
Westerham and Maidstone road, 1\ m.
N.E. from Sevenoaks, and 1-^ m. E. of the
Sevenoaks (Bat and Ball) Stat, of the
L. C. and D., and S.-E. Rlys. : pop. 1590.
Seal is beautifully situated, amidst
woods, parks, villas, broad commons, hop
gardens, green fields, and shady lanes.
The pursuits are agricultural ; hops, wheat,
and peas are largely grown ; and the
many resident gentry add to the pros
perity. Seal Church (St. Peter) is of
rubble-stone, large and interesting. It
consists of nave with aisles, chancel with
aisles or chapels, tall battlemented W.
tower with angle turret, and stone porch
on S. A portion of the nave arcade on
the S. is E.E. ; but the rest of the nave,
S. aisle, and chancel are Dec. The N.
aisle was added in 1855* The tower and
porch, over which is a niche and within
a holy water stoup, are Perp. The interior
was thoroughly restored and embellished,
and a new open timber roof and open
seats added, in 1855. Obs. piscina on S.
The S. or Camden Chapel belongs to the
family at Wildernesse Park ; the N. chapel
to the Grove — the two chief seats in Seal.
The painted glass windows in the chancel
and Camden Chapel are memorials of the
last two Marquises Camden and the late
Marchioness. In the Camden Chapel is
a mont. of Charles Pratt, Earl Camden,
the famous Lord Chief Justice and Lord
Chancellor, d. 1794 ; also a tablet to his
father, Sir John Pratt, Chief Justice of
the King's Bench, d. 1724. Obs. by door
of vestry an insc. (the effigy gone) to
'¦'John Tibold alias Theobauld," d. 1577.
In the chancel is a good brass of Wm. de
Bryene, d. 1395 ; effigy in armour, the
joints not marked ; under the head is a
very early example of the tilting helmet
with crest and mantling. At W. end of
nave is a slab with indents of man and
woman. In a large and richly wooded park im
mediately S. of the viUage, is Wildernesse,

SEVENOAKS.

548

SEVENOAKS.

the fine seat of the Marquis Camden, now
tenanted by Sir Charles H. Mills, Bart.
M.P. The Grove is the seat of the Ladies
Pratt. Other seats are Under River
House (Miss Wood); Fawlw House (C. G.
Hale, Esq.), etc.
At Under River is an elegant Uttle E.E.
church, consecrated in 1874. It was erected
as a memorial of his mother by the late
Rt. Hon. J. R. Davidson, Q.C, of Under
River House, from the designs of Sir G. G.
Scott, R.A.
SELSDON, Surrey (see Croydon).
SEVENOAKS, Kent, a market
town, 6 m. N.W. from Tunbridge, and
23 m. from London by road ; 20 m. by
the S.-E. Rly. (Dunton Green Stat.), and 25
m. by the L. C. and D. Rly. (Tubb's HUI
Stat.) Pop. of the town 4118; of the par.
5949, but this includes the eccl. districts
of Sevenoaks Weald, 742, and Riverhead,
750. Inns, the Royal Crown Hotel, over
looking Kippington Park, a first-class
house ; Royal Oak, opposite the entrance
to Knole Park, also an excellent house ;
Rose and Crown Hotel, High Street ;
Railway Hotel, and Sennocke Arms
Hotel, by the Tubb's Hill Rly. Stat.
The name (anc. Scovenaca) is said to be
derived from 7 oaks which stood near
the town. Tradition points out as their
successors the trees opposite the White
Hart Inn, on the Tunbridge Road, nearly
1 m. from Sevenoaks. Its history is
nearly a blank. " I finde not in all his
toric," writes old Lambarde (whose mont.
is in Sevenoaks ch.). " any memorable
thing concerning it, save onely, that in
the time of King Henry the sixt, Jack
Cade, and his mischievous meiny, dis
comforted there Sir Humfrey Stafford and
his brother, two noble gentlemen, whom
the King had sent to encounter them." *
But if the town has no history, it has a
pleasant locality. It stands on the north
ern brow of a greensand range of high
land, has Knole Park on one side of it
and Kippington Park on the other and
the surrounding country is beautiful,
fertile, and well cultivated. The town
consists of two main streets, which meet
near the church, are lined with respect-
* Lambarde, Perambulation of Kent, p. 470.

able houses, market-place, well-built bank,
new county court house, an old Grammar
School, and. by it the gates of Knole, with
an attractive avenue running from them.
All around are fine old seats and modern
villas. The pursuits are in the main
agricultural, Sevenoaks being the centre
of a rich corn and hop country, but the
town is largely dependent on the nume
rous resident gentry. A market for corn
is held every Saturday, and a stock
market monthly.
The Church (St. Nicholas) at the S.
end of the town, is a large and handsome
Perp. building, and comprises nave and
aisles, chancel, and lofty W. tower, in
which is a peal of 8 bells. Standing on
elevated ground, the tower is a conspicu
ous object for a considerable distance.
The int. of the church is not remarkable,
and its appearance is not improved by
the galleries at the sides and W. end ; in
the latter, however, is a good organ. In
the S. aisle is a marble mural slab to
Wm. Lambarde (d. 1601). " The Peram
bulator of Kent, and the Father of county
historians." removed from Greenwich on
the demolition of the old ch. There are
also monts. to the Dorset, Amherst,
Fermor, and BosweU families, but none of
particular interest. Thomas Farnaby,
equally famous in the reign of Charles I.
as a scholar, schoolmaster, and the editor
of Greek and Roman authors, d. 1647,
was buried in the chancel. He removed
his school to Sevenoaks in 1636, accumu
lated wealth by hislabours, and purchased
Kippington and other property in the
neighbourhood. St. John's ch., St. John's Hill, a chapel-
of-ease to St. Nicholas, is a neat little
early Dec. building, erected in 1858, from
the designs of Messrs. Morphew and
Green. Other noticeable eccl. buUdings
are a Gothic (Dec.) Congregational ch.,
erected in 1866, which is some day to
have a tall spire ; and a Wesleyan chapel
built in 1853.
The Grammar School was founded in
1418, by Sir William Sevenoake, or Sen
nocke, who, a foundling in the streets,
was brought up by the charity of some
of the inhabitants, and apprenticed to a
grocer in London. There he came in
time to be Lord Mayor, and in gratitude
founded a free grammar school and
hospital in the town, where he was found,

SEVENOAKS.

549

SHEEN, EAST.

nurtured, and named after. The school was
remodelled and the endowments enlarged
in the reign of Elizabeth, and entitled
Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School. School
and Hospital were rebuilt in 1 727 ; and
the school buddings have been restored
and enlarged, and the school arrange
ments improved , within the last few years.
It now bears a good name, and has
several scholarships and exhibitions to
Cambridge. Greorge Grote, the historian
of Greece, is the most illustrious of its
scholars. Elijah Fenton, the friend of
Pope, and his colleague in translating the
Odyssey, was for a time an assistant in
the school, and then " kept a school for
himself at Sevenoaks, which he brought
into reputation ; but was persuaded to
leave it (1710), by Mi-. St. John, with
promises of a more honourable employ
ment."* Sevenoaks Hospital, or almshouse,
adjoins the school, and affords lodging
and an annuity of 6s. a week to 20 poor
persons, and lodging without the gratuity
to 12 more. There is another endowed
free-school,, now conducted on the
national system, founded by Lady
Margaret Boswell, wife of Sir William
BosweU, ambassador from Charles I. at
the Hague-.. A cottage hospital has been
recently estabUshed in Holm Dale, St.
John's HUI.
Knole, E. of the town, is described else
where (see Knole). Kippington Park, the
seat of W. J. Thompson, Esq., is a good
mansion, the park smaU but pleasant.
Among the many other mansions around
Sevenoaks are — Tlte Mount, the fine seat
of Lieut.-Col. W. Brook Northey ; Ash-
groves (Kirkman D. Hodgson, Esq., M.P.),
famous for its gardens; Beechmont
(Multon Lambarde, Esq., D.L.) ; River-
kill House (J. Thornton Rogers, Esq.),
noted for the extensive views obtained
from both house and grounds ; Sham
Well (Percival Battiscombe, Esq.)
Sevenoaks Weald is an eccl. dist. formed
out of Sevenoaks par. in 1861. The vill.
is pleasantly situated, in the midst of hop
gardens, on the Penshurst road, about
2 m. S. of Sevenoaks. The pursuits are
almost wholly agricultural. The little
ch. (St. George), built in 1820, was en
larged in 1872 by the addition of a
-* Johnson, Lives of the Poets : Fenton,

chancel — prettily finished, with windows
of stained glass. Here are almshouses
for 8 poor persons. Hieerhead, the other
eccl. dist. of Sevenoaks, has a separate
notice. (See Riverhead.)
SEVERNDROOG CASTLE,
Kent (see Shooter's Hill).
SEWARDSTONE, Essex, a ham
let of Waltham Abbey, on the W. border
of Epping Forest, and the lower road from
Chingf ord to Waltham Abbey, about mid
way (2J m.) between those two places. It
is a long, rambling, and loosely-connected
district, including Sewardstone Street,
Sewardstone Green, Sewardstone Bury,
Sewardstone Mill, Sewardstone Wood.
etc., stretching N. and S. from Waltham
Abbey to Low Street, Chingf ord, and E.
and W. from Sewardstone Wood and High
Beech, in Epping Forest, to Sewardstone
Mill on the Lea ; a varied and often pic
turesque tract, in parts- thickly wooded,
occasionally hilly, and affording wide
prospects ; much of it out-of-the-way,
primitive-looking, and little visited. The
pursuits are agricultural, but there are
large dye works at Sewardstone Mills,
on the Lea. Near Sewardstone Mills is
Sewardstone Lodge (W. Melles, Esq.), a
good house with pretty grounds sloping
to the Lea: Other seats are Tiie Grange
(P. MiUs, Esq.); Gilwell Park (W. A.
Gibbs, Esq.), a handsome house in a small
park by Sewardstone Green ; and Yardley
House (J. S. Davies, Esq.), near Low Street.
Sewardstone has a tradition that it was
once a distinct parish, named after one
Seward, a great Saxon thane, and used to
show a heap of broken ground as the site
of the old church.
SHEEN, EAST, Surrey, a ham
let of Mortlake, Ues on the road from
Putney to Richmond, i m. S. of the Mort
lake Stat, of the L. and S.-W. Rly.
Sheen is charmingly situate on a gentle
upland, with villas aU around, standing
amidst ample grounds, and abounding in
noble trees, while a pleasant walk of about
J m. leads through its still more sylvan
satelUte, Upper Sheen, to the Sheen Gate
of Richmond Park. Bast Sheen Church
(Christ Ch.), a chapel-of-ease to Mort
lake, was buUt in 1863, from the designs

SHEEN, WEST.

550

SHEEN, WEST.

of Mr. A. W. Blomfield, as a memorial of
Edward Penryhn, Esq., of East Sheen.
It is a picturesque Dec. building of Bar-
gate and Bath stone, has nave and S. aisle
of 4 bays with gables, chancel, -and tower ;
the interior is richly decorated, has shafts
of marble, stone, -and slate, and several
memorial windows of painted glass.
Among the many villas are — Sheen House
(Col. Marcus Beresford, M.P.); The Cedars
(E. H. L. Penrhyn, Esq.) ; Palewell Lodge
(J. J. M'Andrew, Esq.) At Upper Sheen
are — The Observatory (Lady Denison),
noted for the grounds and views ; Hal-
steads (Lord Radstock) ; Temple Grove
(Ottiwel C. Waterfield, Esq.), in the 17th
cent, the residence of Sir John Temple,
Master of the Rolls in Ireland, and brother
of the more celebrated Sir Wm. Temple.
Sir John d. in 1674, and was buried in
Mortlake ch. Temple Grove descended
to his grandson, Henry, 1st Viscount
PalmeTston, who Uved in it many years,
and rebuilt the garden front. On the
d. of the 2nd Viscount, it was sold to
Thos. Bernard, Esq., who rebuilt the road
front. It was afterwards occupied for
some years as a superior boarding-school.
Uplands is the residence of Sir Henry
Taylor, the author of ' Philip Van Arte-
velde.' Park Cottage, of Edwin Chad-
wick, Esq., CB. Immediately within the
gate of Richmond Park is Sheen Lodge,
since 1852 the residence of Prof. Owen.
SHEEN, WEST, Surrey. Sheen
was the original name of Richmond, and a
royal palace stood on the W. side of the
present Richmond Green, between it and
the river. Henry V. founded in 1414 a
convent of Carthusians, which he called
the House of Jesus of Bethlehem at Sheen.
The buildings, which were of great extent,
stood about \ m. N.W. of the palace, and
about them grew up a hamlet, which later
was called West Sheen. The convent was
richly endowed, and had several cells, or
aUen priories. Perkin Warbeck sought
refuge in it ; Cardinal Pole in early life
spent two years " in studious retirement "
in lodgings granted to him in the convent ;
Dean Colet, the founder of St. Paul's
School, built a house within the precincts,
spent his last years there, and there d. in
1519 ; and it was to the Convent of Sheen
that the Earl of Surrey carried the body
of James IV. of Scotland for interment,

after the fatal fight of Flodden. It is said,
however, to have remained there unburied ;
and about 1552 Stow saw in a lumber-
room of the convent a body wrapped in
lead, which he was told was the body of
the Scottish king : that it really was the
body of James IV. is, however, very
doubtful.* At the Dissolution, the convent had a
revenue of £777. The prior who made
the surrender, Henry Man, was conform
able, and somewhat later was made Dean
of Chester and Bishop of Man. Queen
Mary restored the convent in Jan. 1557,
but it lasted hardly two years, being again
suppressed at her decease. " The monks
retired to Bruges in 1559 ; to Louvain in
1578 ; to MechUn in 1591 ; their successors
removed to Nieuport, in Flanders, in 1626,
where they continued till 1783 ; there were
then only three professed monks and two
lay-brothers, being the only English con
vent of monks that had never been dis
persed." f The history of the migrations
and persistence of an EngUsh convent of
nuns, the Sisters of Syon, is, however,
even more remarkable. (See Isle-
worth.) Henry VIII. granted the priory to the
Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of
Somerset, on whose attainder in 1551 the
priory estate was transferred to his rival,
Henry Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady
Jane Grey, on whose fall it reverted to the
Crown. It was granted for Ufe by Eliza
beth to Sir Thomas Gorges and his wife,
Helen, widow of WUliam Parr, Marquis of
Northampton ; and by Charles I., in 1638,
to James, Duke of Lenox. By the Parlia
mentary surveyors it was valued, as Crown
land, at £92 per annum, and purchased
by William Eaton. The survey described
the priory church as standing, but very
ruinous ; the buildings comprised the
Prior's Lodgings, of brick ; the Monks'
Hall, of stone; the Lady of St. John's
Lodgings ; the Anchorite's Cell ; and a
building caUed The Gallery.
Soon after his restoration, Charles II.
granted a lease of The Priory for 60 years
to Lord Lisle, who the next year sold it to
Lord Bellasys, but continued for some
* Stow, Annals; Lysons, Environs, vol. i.,
p. 331.
t Lysons, vol. i., p. 352 ; Abbe Man, Account of
English Convents on the Continent : Archaeologia,
vol. xiii., p. 254.

SHEEN, WEST.

551

SHEEN, WEST.

years to reside here. Bellasys in 1662
surrendered the lease to the Crown, and
obtained a renewal of the grant for 60
years. In 1675 a new lease was granted to
trustees for Henry (afterwards Lord)
Brouncker, and Sir WilUam Temple.
Brouncker occupied the mansion, Temple
a house which he had for some years
rented. Sir William had looked to his
" Uttle corner at Sheen " as his English
home and haven during his long diplo
matic residence at Brussels (1666 and
onwards), his wife the greater part of the
time Uving at Sheen ; and in the midst of
his poUtical negotiations he wrote to
Lord Lisle (Aug. 1667) that he was " con
triving this summer how a succession of
cherries may be compassed from May
to Michaelmas, and how the riches of
Sheen vines may be improved by half-a-
dozen sorts which are not known there,
and which I think much beyond any that
are." *
Temple brought over his cherries, and
he " had the honour," as he is careful to
record in his famous Essay on Garden
ing, " of bringing over four sorts of vines
into England," as weU as "the Brussels
apricock which grows a standard, and is
one of the best fruits we have, and. which
I brought over among us ;" and " I may
truly say, that the French who have
eaten my peaches and grapes at Sheen
in no iU year, have generaUy concluded
that the last are as good as any they have
eaten in France on this side Fontainebleau,
and the first as good as any they have
eat in Gascony." Further, the ' Sheen
plum ' was one of the best of its kind, and
his oranges as good as any he had seen in
France, except at Fontainebleau, or in
the Low Countries, except some very old
trees in the Prince of Orange's gardens.
Temple's Sheen garden became a great
attraction. Evelyn visited the two houses
after Lord Brouncker's death.
"24 March, 168S.— I went with Sir Charles
Littleton to Sheen, an house and estate given by
* Sir William had been visiting the Bishop of
Munster, who, as he relates in his Essay on Garden
ing, had no trees but cherries in a great garden he
had made ; the reason, as he told Temple, was
that he found no other fruit would ripen well in
that climate, and so he had limited his curiosity to
-cherries, " whereof he had so many as never to be
.without them from May to the end of September."
— Miscellania, p. 119.

Lord Brouncker. ... It is a pretty place, with
fine gardens, and well planted, and given to one
worthy of them, Sir Charles being an honest
gentleman and soldier. . . . After dinner we
went to see Sir WiUiam Temple's next to it :
the most remarkable things are his orangery
and gardens, where the wall fruit trees are moat
exquisitely nailed and trained, far better than I
ever noted elsewhere. There are many good
pictures, especially of Vandyck's, in both these
houses, and some few statues and small busts in
the latter."*
When Temple wrote his ' Essay upon
the Gardens of Epicurus ; or of Garden
ing in the Year 1685,' he was living at
Sheen, fully recompensed, as he writes,
by the sweetness and satisfaction of this
retreat for having withdrawn from all
public employments ; and here, he adds,
" I have passed five years without ever
going once to Town." He gave up his
Sheen house soon after to his son John,
and went to live at Moor Park, Surrey,
but the events of 1688 recaUed him to the
seat of government. About this time
Jonathan Swift became a member of his
household. Distant relation, half secre
tary, half amanuensis, it was a situation
Swift did not like in after-years to refer
to, but perhaps was not the least pleasant
or profitable portion of his gloomy life.
Intercourse with the old diplomatist
opened to him new views of Ufe ; access to
a splendid library helped to extend his
present narrow store of learning ; and
teaching Hester Johnson was a pleasant
relief from obsequious attendance upon
one who never forgot what was due to his
position. WiUiam III. had known Temple
when in Holland, and, Uke all the states
men of his day, entertained a high opinion
of his abUities, and would gladly have
secured his assistance in his new ministry.
Temple refused aU offers, and William,
unable to change his resolution, used to
come over frequently from Hampton Court
or Kensington to consult the sage, or dis
cuss the condition of Europe. WiUiam
was as fond of gardens as Temple, and
the Sheen garden was a revival of a Dutch
paradise. When Temple was confined to
his room by gout, Swift was deputed to
attend the King in his walks round the
garden ; and it was here, and not at Moor
Park, as is commonly said, that WilUam
instructed him in the Dutch mode of cook
ing and eating asparagus, and offered him
* Evelyn, Diary.

SHENFIELD.

552'

SHENLEY.

the captaincy of a troop of horse. Swift
did not take orders tiU some years later.
Temple left Sheen for good in 1689.
Little more need be told of West Sheen.
About 1769 there remained a gateway of
the priory ; by it was the hamlet, which
then consisted of 18 houses. A lane to the
hamlet crossed the Lower Park. It was
the time when George III. was bent on
Kew and Richmond improvements, and
he wished to sweep away whatever ob
structed them. The necessary powers
were obtained, the road was closed, the
priory gate pulled down, the hamlet
demolished, and the whole site laid down
in turf. Not a vestige of West Sheen has
since been visible, though it is said that
in very dry summers traces of the build
ings may be made out by the browner
grass. SHENFIELD, Essex, on the
Chelmsford road, 1 m. N.E. of Brentwood,
and i a mile W. of the Shenfield stat. of
the Gt. E. Rly. ; pop. 1232, of whom 248
are in the eccl. dist. of Christ Church.
The vill. lies along the turnpike road,
and contains several of the ordinary
small characterless Essex roadside cot
tages, a few of a better class, shops, and an
inn. Part of Brentwood is in Shenfield
par., and houses straggle on from the
village to the town. The Church (St.
Mary the Virgin) stands solitary, a field's
length away from, but in sight of, the viU.
It was restored in 1863, and bears marks
of the restorer's hand in a coating of dark
gray rough-cast and rechiselled mouldings
and window tracery, but is still interest
ing. It consists of a nave and chancel,
originally of E.E. date, with a narrow
north aisle and chapel, added in the 15th
cent., a tower and tall thin wooden spire,
and a deep carved oak Perp. S. porch.
The int. is plain, but obs. the remark
able solid oaken piers, carved to appear
like clustered columns, which divide the
nave and aisle and carry low wooden
arches. Both piers and arches have been
mutilated and mended, but should be ex
amined,* as they are almost unique. Of
the original E.E. work little is left, though
some remains are traceable, as in the wall-
plate, with dog-tooth ornament at the E.
end of the S. wall. The windows are all
Perp., and some are filled with modern
painted glass. Obs. The marble mont.,

N. of the altar, with recumbent effigy of
EUz. Robinson, d. 1652.*
N. of the ch. is Shenfield Hall, a many-
gabled 15th cent, manor-house, now a
farm-house. The manor passed in the 14th
century to Thomas of Woodstock, 6th son
of Edward III. ; belonged in the next
cent, to Humphrey Duke of Buckingham,
on whose death, at the battle of North
ampton, it was seized by Edward IV. and
settled on his wife, Queen EUzabeth. It
afterwards passed to the Lucas family, and
in 1644 gave title to Baron Lucas of Shen
field, whose daughter carried it to the
Duke of Kent, from whose f amUy it went
in the 18th century, by marriage, to the
Earl of Hardwick. It now belongs to the
Countess Cowper. A second manor-house;
Fitzwalters, but locally known as the
Round House, H m. N.E. of the vill., was
destroyed by fire some years back, and
not rebuilt. Middleton Hall, on 1. of the
road near Brentwood, is the seat of the
Countess Tasker. Other seats are Site-a
field Place (E. Courage. Esq.), by the
road S. of the ch. ; Park House (W. G,
Bartleet, Esq.)
SHENLEY, Herts, (Dom.
Scenlai) 2 m. E.N.E. from Radlett
Stat, of the Midland Rly., along a crooked
but pleasant lane direct from the stat.,
and for the greater part of the way by
Porters Park. The par., of 1380 inh. (of
whom 382 belong to the eccl. dist. of
Colney St. Peter), extends from Barnet to
London Colney, nearly 6 miles. The par.
ch. is f m. N. of the village, which is
clustered about the cross-way, S.E. of
Porters. Inn, Black Lion.
At the Domesday Survey, Shenley be
longed to the Abbot of St. Albans and
Geoffry de Mandeville ; the present lord
of the manor is T. B. Myers, Esq. The
Church (St. Botolph), which stands alone,
a little rt. of the road to St. Albans, is of
chalk faced with squared flints, with brick
buttresses, and consists of nave and
chancel, with a square wooden tower and
tiled roof at the S.W. It is throughout
Perp. in style, and the large 4-light E.
and W. windows, as well as two or three
others, are filled with memorial painted
* Shenfield ch. is engraved and described in
Buckler's Twenty-two of the Churches of Essex,
pp. 68—80.

SHEPHERDS BUSH.

553

SHEPPERTON.

glass. The ch. has been partially restored,
but stiU looks fitting companion of the an
tique yews in the ch.-yard. Of these, one
immense tree with hollow trunk, but green
and bushy top, stands close to the E. end of
the ch. ; on the S.W. is another nearly as
large; while 4 more, of smaller dimensions
but of venerable years, are at the corners
of the ch.-yard. On the S. side of the ch.
is an old sundial. Obs. in ch.-yard, the
mont. of Nicholas Hawksmoor, d. 1736,
the architect of St. George's, Bloomsbury,
St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street, and
other well-known London churches.
Owing to the distance of the ch. from the
bulk of the population, a neat chapel-of-
ease has been built in the centre of the
viU., in which the aft. and evening services
are performed, the morning service being
still held inthe old church. Porters is
now the residence of H. W. Eaton, Esq.,
M.P. Other seats are — High Canons (R.
Durant, Esq.), on 1. of the main road, IJ
m. S.E. from Shenley vUl. ; Shenley Hill
(F. AUeyne McGeachy, Esq.) ; Shenley
Lodge (H. E. Chetwynd Stapleton, Esq.)
SHEPHERD'S BUSH, Middx., a
hamlet and eccl. dist. of Hammersmith
par., and a stat. of the Metr. Dist. Rly.,
on the Uxbridge road, 3 m. from the
Marble Arch, and a short m. N. of Ham
mersmith Broadway : pop. 8733.
The old viUage, consisting of dweUings
mostly smaU, shops, and- an inn, was
built about a triangular green, at the
parting of the New Road (to Turnham
Green) from the main Uxbridge road;
but of late years new viUas, cottages, and
shops of the usual suburban type have
extended along the roads, and new streets
have been laid out in various directions.
The place has Uttle to interest any one.
The green, a flat treeless common of 8i
acres, has been secured for pubUc use, and
is now under the charge of the Metro-
poUtan Board of Works: it appears to
be chiefly used by boys as a cricket
ground. The dist. Church (St. Stephen's),
in the Uxbridge road, W. of the Green,
is a good stone building for 600 persons,
erected at the cost of Bp. Blomfield in
1849-50, from the designs of Mr. A.
Salvin. It consists of nave,, aisles, and
chancel, and a tower and spire at the
N.W. 150 ft. high. The interior is roomy

and well fitted, and several of the win
dows have painted glass. Another ch.,
(St. Paul's), Gothic, like St. Stephen's,
but ,of less costly character, has been
recently erected in the Uxbridge road :
and there are 3 or 4 chapels. Wormholt
Scrubs — also in Hammersmith parish —
is about a mile N.
SHEPPERTON or SHEPERTON,
Middx. (A..-S. Seeapheardton = Shepherd's
Town : Dom. Scepertone), a vill. on the
Thames, immediately above Halliford,
and the terminus of the Shepperton br.
of the L. and S.-W. Rly. Pop. of par.
1126. Inns, the Anchor, the Crown;
Railway, by the stat.
Shepperton is a quiet Uttle river-side
vill., chiefly visited by anglers and boating-
men, but having about it some good
residences hidden away behind taU old
elms. The Green has around it large
elms and horse-chesnuts. The reaches
of the river are very pretty ; the sur
rounding country level, but green and
pleasant. Shepperton Deeps are much
resorted to for barbel, roach, perch, jack,
and occasional trout fishing. The
Upper Deep, 200 yards ; the Old Deep,
E. of the Creek raUs, 240 yds. ; and the
Lower Deep, 200. Shepperton Creek is
also available. Punts and boats may be
hired, the Purdues and Rogersons are
fishermen of old standing, and the Anchor
and the Crown are reasonable anglers'
inns. At the former used to be a por
trait of a fish taken here, with the insc.
under it, " Oct. 3, 1812, at Shepperton
Deeps, Mr. G. Marshallrof Brewer Street,
London, caught a salmon with a single
gut, without a landing net, weighing
21J lb." Salmon are no longer caught
here, but it is not unusual to take a trout
from 7 to 10 or 12 lb. Punt and skiff
buUding is now carried on to some ex
tent. There is a ferry over the Thames
from near Shepperton ch.
The Church (St. Nicholas) stands close
by the river. It is small, cruciform,
Perp. The body of flint and stone in
squares, of the 16th cent., but partially
rebuilt several years ago. The brick
tower, at the W. end, was built in 1710,
by the Rev. Lewis Atterbury, the rector,
brother of the noted Bp. of Rochester.
Wm. Grocyn, the friend and corre
spondent of Erasmus, and one of the

SHIRLEY.

554

SHOOTER S HILL.

earhest teachers of Greek at Oxford, was
rector 1504-13.
The principal seats are — the Manor
House (Wm. Schaw Lindsay, Esq.);
Shepperton Creek (Sir P. Colquhoun,
Q.C.) ; Halliford House (H. H. Blyth,
Esq.) Roman and other remains have on
several occasions been found in this neigh
bourhood. A good vase was dug up in
1817 in a field S.W. of the vill. On the
E., between Shepperton Field and Walton
Bridge, appears to have been a Roman
cemetery. In 1868, various remains,
reported to be Saxon, were found at the
junction of Shepperton Range and Lit
tleton. (See Halliford.)
SHIRLEY, Surrey, a hamlet of
Croydon, 2 m. E. of the East Croydon
Stat, of the L., B., and S. C. Rly., on the
road to Addington and Wickham; pop.
683. Inns, Sandrock Hotel ; Crown.
The neighbourhood is exceedingly
pleasant, and Shirley Common is still a
broad, open, breezy tract, though cir
cumscribed in extent of late years, and
very different to what Hone described it
in 1827,* when broom-making was ex
tensively carried on here, the materials
being obtained from the common and
the adjacent woods and copses. Hone's
" John Bennett, broom maker and wood
dealer," is however still represented by
descendants at Shirley, Wm. Bennett and
Son, " wood brokers." Many villas and
genteel cottages have been built at Upper
and Lower Shirley, but the district is
still rural. Shirley House, the fine seat
of the Earl of Eldon (now tenanted by
Fredk. Bambury, Esq.), lies on the Addis-
combe side of Shirley ; the grounds are
rich and picturesque. Shirley was
created an eccl. dist. in 1846. The Church
(St. John the Evangelist), erected in
1856, is a pretty little building of black
flint and stone, Dec. in style, with a
richly ornamented chancel, stained glass
E. window, and a good organ.
SHOOTER'S HILL, Kent, be
tween the 8th and 9th milestones on the
Dover road ; an isolated mass of London
clay, rising to an elevation of 446 ft.
* Hone, Table Book, coL 449, etc.

above the Ordnance datum, famous for
its prospect of London and the vaUey of
the Thames, and of old a notorious haunt
for highwaymen — whence indeed it is
said to have derived its name.
" Shooter's Hill, so called for the thievery there
practised, where travellers in elder times were so
much infested with depredations and bloody mis
chiefs, that order was taken in the 6th year of
Richard IL, for the enlarging the highway, accord
ing to the statute made in the time of King Edward
I., so that they venture still to rob here by pre
scription ; and some have been so impudent to
offer to engage the sun shining at mid-day, for
the repayment of money called borrowed in a
thievish way, to the great charge of the hundred
that still was in the counter-bond : and King
Henry IV. granted leave to Thomas Chapman to
cut down, burn, and sell all the woods and under
woods, growing and confining to Shooter's Hill, on
the S. side, and to bestow the money raised thereby,
upon mending the highway." *
" Surely," continues old PhiUpott,
" Prince Henry his son, and Sir John
Falstaff his make sport, so merrily repre
sented in Shakepeare's comedies, were
now the surveyors." Whoever were the
surveyors, the ways were not mended.
A quarter of a century after PhiUpott,
Oldham writes (1682),
" Oft we encounter midnight Padders here :
* * * #
Hither in flocks from Shooter's Hill they
come,
To seek their prize and booty nearer home :
'Your pursel' they cry; 'tis madness to re
sist,
Or strive, with a cock'd piatol-at your breast. " t
The road continued a steep and narrow
way closed in by thick woods, a con
venient harbour for highwaymen, tiU
about 1733, when a "road of easier ascent
and of great width was laid out at some
distance from the old one ; ' 'J but long
after highwaymen lingered about it. For
discouraging robbers the usual methods
were adopted, and Shooter's HUI was
seldom without the ornament of a gibbet.
"April YUh, 1661.— ... Of all thejournies I
ever made this [from Bartford to London] was the
¦merriest. . . . Among other things I got my lady
to let her maid, Mrs. Anne, to ride all the way on
horseback. . . . Mrs. Anne and I rode under the
man that hangs upon Shooter's Hill, and a filthy
sight it was to see how his flesh is shrunk to his
bones." §
* Philipott, Vill. Cant., 1659, p. 135.
+ Oldham, A Satyr, in imitation of the Third of
Juvenal : Works, ed. 1703, p. 449.
t Hasted, Hist, of Kent, vol. i., p. 60; Lysons,
vol. i., p. 491.
£ Pepys, Diary, vol. i., p. 211.

SHOOTERS HILL.

555

SHOOTER S HILL.

The hiU maintained its reputation long
after the new road was made. Don Juan,
it will be remembered, having alighted at
Shooter's Hill to enjoy the prospect of Lon
don, was accosted by a minion of the moon
with the usual demand, " Your money or
your life " — and laid his assailant dead
with a shot from his pocket pistol.
Byron's description of the prospect -from
" the high hill, which looks with pride or
scorn toward the great city," is charac
teristic :
" A mighty mass of >brick, and smoke, and ship
ping,
Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye
Could reach, with here and there a sail just
skipping
In sight, then lost amidst the forestry
Of masts : a wilderness of steeples peeping
On tiptoe through their sea-coal canopy ;
A huge, dim cupola, like a foolscap crown
On a fool's head — and there is London
Town!"*
But in the olden time the hill was
renowned for shooting of another order.
On May-day 1516, Henry VIII. and his
Queen, accompanied by many lords and
ladies, "rode to the high ground of
Shooter's Hill to take the open air."
"And as they passed by the way, they espied a
company of tall yomen, clothed all in.grene with
grene whodes and bowes and arroweB, to the number
of h'C. Then one of them, whioh called him self e
Robyn Hood, came to the kyng, desyring him to
se his men shoote, and the kyng was content.
Then he whisteled, and al the iiC. archers shot
and losed at once, and then he whisteled agayne,
and they likewyse shot agayne, their arrowes
whisteled by crafte of the head, so that the noyes
was strange and great, and much pleased the
kynge and quene and all the company. All these
archers -were of the kynge's garde. . . . Then
Robyn Hood desyred tbe kynge and quene to come
into the grene wood and see how *the outlawes
lyve. The king demanded of yB quene and her
ladyes, if they durst adventure to go into the
wood with so many outlawes? Then the quene
Bayde, that if it pleased him, she was content ;
then the homes blewe tyl they came to the wood
under Shoters Hil, and there was an Arber made
of boowes (boughs) with a hai, and a great chamber
and an inner chamber, very well made and covered
with floures and swete herbes, which the kyng
much praysed. Then said Robyn Hood, 'Sir,
Outlawes brekefastes is venyson, and therefore
you must be content with such fare as we use.'
Then the kynge and quene sate doune, and were
Berved with venyson and wyne by Robyn Hood
and his men to their contentaoion. Then the
kyng departed and hys company, and Robyn Hood
and his men them conducted." t
Of the pageant that met them on their
* Don Juan, c. x., v. IxxxiL
t Hall, Chronicle, p. 532.

way back to Greenwich it does not belong
to us to speak. There is a tradition that
Queen Elizabeth was wont to come here
sometimes a-maying, but no such pretty
spectacle has ever again been seen on
Shooter's Hill as that of King Henry's
greeting by Robin Hood and his men.
Shooter's Hill is a sufficiently quiet
place now. The woods have been cut
down or enclosed ; the hill spotted over
with genteel villas. The name has been
appropriated to an eccl. dist. formed in
1865 out of the parishes of Eltham,
Woolwich, and Lewisham, which num
bered 461 inh. in 1871. A neat E.E.
district church, Christ Church, was built
on the W. slope of the hill in 1865, but
proving inadequate to the growing re
quirements a new one (AU Saints) has been
recently erected in the Englefield road.
Here too are the Cordwainers' and Bread
Street Ward Schools.
On the summit of the hill, a short
distance on the rt. of the road, is Severn-
droog Castle, erected in 1784 from the
designs of Mr. Jupp, by Lady James, of
Park Farm House, in commemoration of
the gaUantry of her husband, Sir Wm.
James (d. 1783), " and in a peculiar man
ner to record the conquest of the Castle
of Severn Droog, on the coast of Malabar,
which fell to his superior valour and able
conduct on the 2nd day of April, 1756."
The Castle is a triangular brick tower, of
three floors, about 45 ft. high, with taller
turrets at the angles, and windows of un
equal size and equal ugliness. Inside
were placed armour, weapons, etc., cap
tured at Severndroog. From the summit
(482 ft. high) the prospect has always
been celebrated. It is somewhat circum
scribed now by the growth of the trees,
and is seen to most advantage in early
spring or at the end of autumn. The
tower is now closed and much dilapidated,
but admission can generally be obtained
on proper appUcation : and on a clear
day it is worth obtaining.
Just beyond the castle a spacious semi-
gothic red brick villa, Castle Wood (H.
T. Jackson, Esq.), has been recently
erected, which commands almost un
broken views. Close by is Castle House
(Mrs. Harris). Park Farm House is now
the residence of Col. G. Boothby. Other
villas are Denholm Lodge (Gen. Fred.
Aug. Yorke, R.E.) ; The Slurubbery (Col.

SHOREHAM.

556

SHOREHAM.

T. Close) ; Elmhurst (Col. R. Young
Shipley); Perrina Lodge (Major H. Brack-
enbury), etc.
On the summit of the hiU is a mineral
spring, once of repute : WUUa'm Godbid
wrote an account of it in 1673, and
Evelyn records that he "drank the
Shooters Hill waters" in 1699. The tea-
gardens of the Bull inn at the top of the
hill were a favourite summer resort in the
last century, and the house was noted for
wedding dinners.
The Herbert Hospital, Kidbrooke
Common, the hospital for the Woolwich
garrison, is on the W. slope of Shooter's
HUI, by the road to Eltham. It was
erected in 1866 from designs prepared in
the Engineers' department, under the
direction of Capt. D. Galton. It is built
of Suffolk brick and stone, on the pavilion
system, and comprises 6 parallel blocks,
in which are the hospital wards, providing
650 beds ; a central block containing the
chapel, day -room, library, etc.; and at
right angles to these, facing the Dover
road, and presenting to it an ornamental
front, the Administrative block. These
are all detached buildings (standing 63 ft.
apart), but connected by covered corri
dors. There are besides separate and con
tagious wards, offices, etc. The appUances
are ample and complete, and the general
arrangements much commended by pro
fessional men.
SHOREHAM, Kent, a vill. on
the Darent, about 5 m. N. of Sevenoaks,
throughOtford, andastat.onthe Sevenoaks
br. of the L. C. and D. Rly. Pop. 1300, of
whom 89 are inthe eccl. dist. of St. Mary
Woodlands. Inns, George, by ch. ; Crown,
at N. end of vill.
The viU. is picturesquely placed in a
narrow valley, the Darent, here crossed
by an old stone bridge of two arches,
flowing through the village, fringed with
willows, and having a large corn, mill at
one extremity and a larger paper mill at
the other. The chalk hills, into which
the river has here cut deeply, rise high
on either hand, and afford fine views
over a great extent of varied country,
with the Valley of the Darent winding
northward among the hills by Lulling
stone and Farningham towards the
Thames, and southwards expanding into
the broad and pleasant Holmesdale. Be

yond is the richly wooded Greensand
range of Sevenoaks. The soil of Shore
ham is chalk and loamy marl, and there
are hop grounds, corn fields, and fruit
gardens all around. These afford the chief
employment, but the paper-mills of Mr.
G. Wilmot at the N. end of the vill.
employ many hands.
There are old manors, old famiUes, and
in the reign of Henry VIII. there were
the ruins of an old castle at Shoreham ;
but their history is of no general interest,
and of the castle only the memory is
preserved in the picturesque old Castle
Farm. The Church (St. Peter and St. Paul), on
the E.. side of- the vill., is of flint, Kentish
rag, and Bath-stone, the earlier part Dec,
the later Perp. ; comprises nave and N.
aisle, short S. aisle or chapel, chancel, and
low tower at the W. end, of flint and
brick, with pinnacles at the angles, clock
and peal of 6 bells. The int., restored in
1865, and reseated with good oak benches,
is wide and lofty, has an arcade of tall
light columns and arches, a plain old
open timber roof, and several painted
glass windows. The nave is shut off from
the chancel by a very perfect rood screen,
restored, but in the main old, of carved
oak, with doorway on the N. The stairs,
and door opening on to the top of the
screen, are still perfect. The font is old,
but not otherwise remarkable. There are
some showy and well-carved 18th cent.
mural monts., to members of the Borrett
family. Before leaving the ch. -yard, obs.
on S.W. of ch. the picturesque old oak
porch, covered with ivy, and the Uch-gate
at the entrance.
At Shoreltam Place, the seat of H. St.
John Mildmay, Esq.: — a fine mansion in
very picturesque grounds — is a small but
choice collection of Dutch and Flemish
pictures. Other good residences are Water-
House (S. Love,, Esq.) ; Dunstall Priory
(R. H. Borwick, Esq.); and Darent
Holme, the pleasant abode of Prof. Prest-
wich, the distinguished geologist.
From- Shoreham there is a charming
walk along fields and the river to LuUing-
stone Castle. (See Lullingstone.) Pass
the Crown, and turn by the paper-mitt
into the field-path with the river on the rt. ;
proceed through hop-gardens (and at hop-
picking time it is a lively scene along
here), and by the Castle Farm, a pictu-

SIDCUP.

557

SLOUGH.

resque old half-timber, overhanging, many
gabled, and tall-roofed house, set off by
heavy masses of elms, and looking out
upon the wUlow-fringed river.
SHORTLANDS, Kent (see
Beckenham). SION HOUSE, Middx. (see Syon
House). SIDCUP, Kent, a hamlet and eccl.
dist. of Chiselhurst, and a station on the
North Kent Loop-line of the S.-E. Rly., is
situated on the Maidstone road, 11 m.
from London, and 1 m. N.W. of Foot's
Cray. Pop. 883. Inns, Black Horse
Hotel; Railway Tavern.
The viUage stands in a pleasant country,
on which, however, the buUder is making
inroads. Fruit is grown extensively. The
Church (St. John the Evangelist), erected
in 1844, and partly remodelled in 1874, is
of brick and flint, Byzantine in style, with
2 towers at the W. end, and an apsidal
chancel. The interior is richly fitted : obs.
the carved oak pulpit (inscribed Antwerp,
1851) and reading desk, and the finely
carved marble reredos. The painted glass
windows are memorials of the late Lord
Bexley, of Foot's Cray, and of Richard
and Henry Berens of Sidcup, the princi
pal contributors to the erection and en
dowment of the ch. The handsome alms
house was bruit and endowed by Mr. H.
Berens for six unmarried ladies above the
age of 45. The principal seats are — Sidcup ,
(H. Halse Berens, Esq.) ; Sidcup Place
(J. Gooch Hepburn, Esq.); the Manor
House (Misses Hoare) ; Belmont House
(J. Gundry, Esq.)
SLOUGH, Buckinghamshire, a
long straggUng town on the Bath road,
21 m. from London, 2J m. N. of Windsor,
and a stat. on the Grt. W. Rly., 18 m.
Pop. 4509.
As a town Slough has Uttle to arrest
attention. Of late years it has greatly
increased in extent and population. Many
genteel houses have been built around it ;
and a new suburb of villas, Upton Park,
has been formed, with reading and biUiard
rooms, and over 30 acres of pleasure-
'grounds. The streets of Slough are lined
with good shops and dwelUngs, and there

are various offices and institutes. At the E.
end of the town are the noted nurseries
of Messrs. Turner— always worth visiting,
but especially so in the rose season. A
market, chiefly for cattle, is held on
Tuesday. Slough is for the most part in the
parish of Upton-cum-Chalvey, and old
Upton ch. was the only ch. for Slough
till 1837, when a new ch. was erected in
the High Street, and some time after made
the parish ch. It is (1876) about to be
replaced by a larger and more ecclesiasti
cal structure. A new and rather elaborate
ch. by Mr. G. E. Street was erected at
Chalvey in 1861, and another has since
been added to the number, whilst old
Upton ch. has been restored, and is again
used for divine service.
The British Orphan Asylum, by the
Slough stat., was founded in 1827 "for the
maintenance, clothing, and education of
destitute orphans, from all parts of the
British empire, whose parents were once
in prosperous circumstances." The house
was at Clapham Rise till 1865, when Mr.
Edw. Mackenzie, of Fawley Court, Henley-
on-Thames, purchased the large building
known as the Queen's Hotel, by Slough
stat., remodelled the interior, added a
large dining-haU and school-room, and
presented the house and grounds to the
institution. The place, named after its
donor Mackenzie Park, was formally
opened by the Prince of Wales, Jan. 25,
1865. A new wing was added to the
building in 1875, and it now contains about
250 children of both sexes.
A Uttle way out of the town, on the 1.
of the Windsor road, stands a plain old
red-brick dwelling, of old Ivy House, now
called Herschels, memorable as for nearly
40 years the residence of Sir WiUiam
Herschel. Here he constructed his Forty-
foot Telescope, which he set up in the
garden in 1786 ; made his numerous and
most important discoveries, and here
died in 1822. Here also lived and laboured,
till Herschel's death, his sister, Caroline
Herschel, with a success that added lustre
to the name. Here too Su- J. F. W.
Herschel was born ; and here commenced,
and till 1840 prosecuted, his great astro
nomical observations and researches.
The Forty-foot Telescope excited un
bounded interest when first made, no
instrument approaching it in size having

SNARESBROOK.

558

SNARESBROOK.

up to that time been seen. Miss Caroline
Herschel relates that before the optical
parts were finished, the family assembled
inside the vast tube, and " ' God save the
King ' was sung in it by the whole com
pany." Many visitors, she adds, "had
the curiosity to walk through it, among
the rest King George III. ; and the Abp.
of Canterbury, following the King, and
findin-j it difficult to proceed, the King
turned round to give him the hand, say
ing, ' Come, my Lord Bishop, I will show
you the way to Heaven 1 ' " *
When Sir John Herschel left Slough
the telescope was laid in the garden, on
three stone piers horizontally, the optical
apparatus placed " inside of the tube and
riveted up from all intruders ; and aU
the polishing apparatus^a^ on the spot."
There the valued reUc is reUgiously pre
served. " The great mirror is now put up
in the hall of the house — Herschcls — by
the present tenant, Mr. Montressor, who
has spared no pains to do honour to the
relics as well as to keep up the character
of the old-fashioned 'habitation' which
owes much to the taste and judgment he
has bestowed on it." f
A short mile W. of the Slough Stat, on
the Bath road, is Salt Hill, with the Mons,
tumulus or hillock, the goal of the old
Eton Montem. (See Eton.) Of old there
were two or three hotels, but with the
abolition of the Montem, and the loss of
the posting business by the opening of the
railway, their prosperity declined. There
is however still a good hotel, the Wind-
mUl, but known as Botham's Inn, in
favour alike with Etonians and families.
The vUlage is pleasant, quiet, and genteel.
SNARESBROOK, Essex, a ham
let of Wanstead, on the Woodford road,
6| m. from Whitechapel ch., and a stat.
on the Ongar br. of the Grt. E. Rly. Inn,
the Eagle.
Seated on the S.W. skirt of Epping
Forest, and not far from Hainault, Snares-
brook was of old a very deUghtful spot.
Fifty years ago, herds of deer roved freely
about it. The great pond abounded with
waders. The largest trees of the forest
were in this neighbourhood. It was the

* Mrs. J. Herschel, Memoir and Correspondence
of Caroline Herschel, 1876, p. 309.
t Ibid., p. 310, note

haunt of innumerable varieties of song
birds. But for many years past enclosures
have been made on every hand, and
Snaresbrook has been severed from the
mass of Epping Forest. Hainault Forest
has been disafforested. Now only a few
scrubby fragments of forest land remain
about Snaresbrook. StiU it is a pleasant
locaUty, and it continues to be resorted to
in summer by East-end hoUday folk. For
them a great attraction is the Eagle, a
large and good inn with exceUent gardens,
and the great pond, or lake, as it is now
called, in front. The old hamlet contains
many good old-fashioned "country houses,"
of the type favoured by weU-to-do citizens
of the past generations, and numerous in
all these eastern suburbs ; smart new villas
and cottages have sprung up on all sides,
and a pretty Gothic ch., Christ Church,
has been built by the Green, so as to
serve for Snaresbrook as well as Wan-
stead. Immediately S. of the lake — the grounds
reaching down to ft — is the Infant Orphan
Asylum, founded by Dr. Andrew Reed in
1827, for children whose parents have
occupied a respectable position. The
building, a substantial and spacious
Elizabethan structure, was erected in
1843 from the designs of Moffatt and
Scott. The institution is carefuUy and
weU conducted, and has always been
popular. The chUdren are eligible for
election at any age under 7, and may
remain till 12. In the autumn of 1875
there were 340 boys and 260 girls in the
Asylum. The office is 100, Fleet Street.
Close to the stat. is the Merchant Sea
men's Orphan Asylum, another admirable
institution, first estabUshed in 1817, in a
street in St. George's-in-the-East— a sea
men's haunt — and supported mainly by
persons connected with the merchant
service. Outgrowing the premises, it
migrated to the Borough Road, and
thence hither. The Prince Consort laid
the first stone of the present building in
1861, and it was opened by Earl RusseU
two years later. It is a showy Gothic
edifice of red brick, with black bands and
Ancaster stone dressings. A conspicuous
feature is the tall tower and spire, and*
porch, with Devonshire marble shafts in
the base. The architect was Mr. G. C.
Clarke. The elegant Uttle chapel, on the
1. of the main building, was presented to

SOUTHALL.

559

SOUTHGATE.

the institution by Lady Morrison. The
great dining-haU is an addition : the first
stone of it was laid by the Prince and
Princess of Wales in June 1866. The
building affords accommodation for 300
children; in November 1875 there were
270 resident. (Office — 132, Leadenhall
Street.)
SOUTHALL, Middx., on the
Uxbridge road, 9$ m. from London, and a
stat. (at SouthaU Green, J m. S. of the
town) on the Grt. W. Rly., 9 m. from
Paddington. SouthaU is an eccl. dist. of
Hayes par.: pop. 993.
SouthaU is a busy but not an attractive
place. The country is flat, and disfigured
by extensive brickfields, though in some
directions there are green fields, shady
lanes, and pleasant walks. Farming is a
leading occupation, and there are gas
works, chemical works, and large steam
flour mills. A great cattle market is held
every Wednesday. The Grand Junction
Canal runs between Southall and Nor
wood. SouthaU Church (St. John) is a
plain but substantial stone building,
erected about 1838. Close to SouthaU
Stat, is the Marylebone District School,
an immense structure, in which over 400
children are lodged, taught, and trained to
industrial pursuits, and which is capable
of accommodating 500.
The manor of SouthaU belonged to the
Abp. of Canterbury, under whom it was
held, in the 14th cent., by John Shore-
dych. It then passed with the manor of
Norwood to the WUlys, Chesemans, and
Chamberlaynes, and was about 1580
ahenated to Gregory Fynes, Lord Dacre.
On the death of his widow in 1595, it was
sold to Francis Awsiter, in whose family
it continued till 1756. It was then sold to
Mis. Agatha Child, and with the other
estates passed by marriage to the Earl of
Jersey. The manor is now held by Sir
Charles Mills. The Manor House is the
residence of Edward Weston, Esq. Dor-
man's Well, the seat of Lord Dacre, | m.
N.E. of Southall Street, is now a farm
house. Southall Park, formerly the seat
of Sir W. ElUs, a fine red-brick mansion,
situated in beautiful grounds S. of the
town, is now a private lunatic asylum.
Another mansion, The Shrubbery, is simi
larly occupied.

SOUTHCOTE, Surrey (see Ad-
dlestone). SOUTHFLEET, Kent (Dom.
Sudfleta), a pretty secluded vill., 2^ m. S.
of Northfleet, and 3 m. S.W. of Gravesend :
pop. 730.
The name is derived from Qiefleot which
rising here entered the Thames at North-
fleet. (See Northfleet.) The vill. Ues
to the S. of the ancient Watling Street,
and is supposed to occupy the site of the
Roman station, Vagniaca?. Cinerary urns,
fragments of pottery, coins, etc., found
here indicate the existence of a Roman
cemetery. Till the Dissolution, Southfleet
belonged to the Priory of St. Andrew,
Rochester, and the priors had charter of
free warren. In the second half of the
17th cent, the manor was held by Sir
Charles Sedley. The employments are
agricultural : corn, hops, and fruit are
largely grown.
The Church (St. Nicholas) of different
dates, comprises nave and S. aisle, chancel,
W. tower (in which is a peal of 6 beUs),
and porch. It was restored and reseated,
several painted glass windows inserted,
and the chancel paved with encaustic tiles
in 1867. In the chancel are sedilia, piscina,
and six old stalls. Among the monts. is an
altar tomb to John Sedley, lord of the
manor, and wife ; and there are brasses to
John Urban, d. 1420, and wife; and to
John Tubney, Archdeacon of St. Asaph,
chaplain to the bishop, and rector of
Southfleet. The principal seats are Joyce
Hall (Edward Colyer, Esq.) ; Court Lodge
(J. Garland, Esq.) ; Westwoool House (Wal
ter Solomon, Esq.) ; and Scadbury House
(Capt. Andrus).
Spring Head — tea-gardens and water
cress beds — a popular resort of Gravesend
visitors, is in Southfleet par., about IJ m.
N. of the viUage.
SOUTHGATE, Middx., a hamlet
and eccl. dist. of Edmonton, pop. 3743,
so named as being the S. entrance or gate
to Enfield Chase, is 8 m. N. from London,
| m. N.W. from the Palmer's Green Stat.
of the Grt. N. Rly., Enfield line, and 1 J m.
N.E. from the Colney Hatch and South-
gate Stat, of the Grt. N. Rly. main line,
by a pleasant byroad fined with shady
elms.

SOUTHGATE.

560

SPRING GROVE.

The vUlage is quiet, sheltered, and flou
rishing ; one of the pleasantest looking
and least changed round London. A
long stretch of shops and residences, put
in aU sorts of shady nooks and corners ;
a broad green Uned with great elms, and
opposite it a modest and comfortable inn,
the Cherry Tree ; a handsome modern
church ; and all around numerous noble
trees standing by the roadside or within
spacious grounds, and reveaUng glimpses
of stately mansions. Once Southgate
boasted its patrician residents, but its
aristocracy now consists of opulent citi
zens, with an occasional nabob.
Among the chief seats are Arno's Grove,
by the Green (John Walker, Esq.), for
merly Arnolds, the seat of Sir John Weld,
who built the neighbouring chapel, 1615,
and founded the family of the Welds of
Lulworth Castle. The present house,
erected from the designs of Sir R. Taylor
by Sir Geo. Colebrooke about 1720, was
enlarged about 1777 by Lord Newhaven,
who gave it its present designation.
Minchenden, in the last century the seat
of the Duke of Chandos : in the grounds
is a pollard oak of great celebrity; "it
covers the largest extent of ground of any
tree in England, and has now (1873) a
spread of 126 ft., having increased 8 ft.
since 1820."* Southgate House (W. J.
Armitage, Esq.) Grovelands, at the S.
end of the vill., well known as Culland's
Grove, when the abode of Aid. Sir William
Curtis, M.P. for the City In the days of
the Regency, who was raised to the baro
netcy in 1802 as " of Culland^s Grove,
Southgate." In Sept. 1865 a pair of os-
preys (or bald buzzards) frequented a
sheet of water in the grounds, carrymg
the fish they captured to the masthead of
a pleasure boat, where they devoured it.
They continued here till they had been
several times shot at.f Bromnfield Park
(R. D. Littler, Esq.), for three centuries
the property of the Jacksons, a fine old
mansion, having » grand entrance hall
and staircase of carved oak, with walls and
ceUings painted by Sir Jas. Thornhill,
approached by a double avenue of elms,
and. standing in a well-timbered park of
75 acres. Bowes Manor, a Uttle farther
S., was the seat of Lord Truro (who died

*" Ford, Hist, of Enfield, p. 182.
t Harting, Birds of Middlesex, p. 3.

there Nov. 11, 1855), and is now the resi
dence of Aid. Sidney. Osidge House, N.
of the village, is the pleasant seat of A,
Bosanquet, Esq.
Southgate CA?«re^ (Christ Ch.),W. ofthe
vUlage, occupies the site of the old Weld
chapel. It is a handsome stone building,
E.E. in style, erected by Sir G. G. Scott,
R.A., in 1863, and consists of nave and
aisles, with clerestorey, chancel, and tower,
and octagonal stone spire at the N.W. The
interior is light and lofty, with a tall well-
proportioned chancel arch, borne on shafts
of Devonshire marble. Obs. in E. window
of 3 tall lancet lights, the painted glass by
Clayton and Bell, and. the saints and vir
tues, of severest pre-RaphaeUte design, in
small windows at the E. end of the N.
aisle by Burne Jones, and at the W. end
of the S. aisle by Rossetti. The ch.-yard is
prettily laid out, and well kept.
Palmer's Green, a Uttle gathering of
houses on the road to Enfield, is a member
of Southgate. The pleasantest way to it
from Southgate is by the field-path 1. of
the Cherry Tree. After passing the great
oak, take the lane to the 1. by Grovelands.
The rly. stat. is some Uttle distance S.W.
of the Green.
New Southgate. — A portion of South-
gate district was in 1873 united with the
hamlet of Colney Hatch in Friern Barnet
par. to form the eccl. district of New
Southgate; and a handsome church (St.
Paul), E.E. in style, designed by Sir Gil
bert Scott, erected for its accommodation.
(See Colnet Hatch.) At Bowes Manor,
the southern extremity of Southgate, to
wards Tottenham Wood, another new dis
trict church (St. Michael and All Angels)
— a handsome and weU-finished E.E.
fabric — was erected in 1874 from the de
signs of Sir Gilbert Scott.
Leigh Hunt was born at Southgate, Oct,
1784.
SOUTH MIMMS, Herts (see
Mimms, South).
SOUTH OCKENDON, Essex (see
Ockendon, South).
SOUTH WEALD, Essex (see
Weald, South).
SPRING GROYE, Middx., an
eccl. dist. E. of Hounslow on the main

SPRING GROVE.

561

STAINES.

western road, 9 m. from Hyde Park
Corner, and a stat. on the loop Une of
the L. and S.-W .Rly. Pop. of the eccl.
dist. (formed in 1856 out of the pars, of
Heston and Isleworth), 1657.
Spring Grove was the name of an estate
at Smallbury Green, in Heston par., which
belonged in 1645 to Sir John Offley. A
descendant sold it in 1754 to Edward
Biscoe, Esq., who built a new mansion.
This about 1790 was leased, and in 1808
purchased, by Sir Joseph Banks, Presi
dent of the Royal Society. Sir Joseph
altered the house, improved the grounds,
and built new conservatories, which he
stored with the rarest plants, such as
only his official position, fame as a
botanist, and connections with coUectors
throughout the world, could have enabled
him to obtain. He was in the habit of
inviting distinguished men of science and
letters, both foreign and native, and
Spring Grove became celebrated.
"As the spring advanced he left his house in
London to reside at a villa known as Spring Grove,
near Hounslow, where he remained until the
session of the Royal Society terminated. Here
he dined daily at 4 o'clock, in order that bis
frequent visitors from London might have ample
time to return in the evening. When the weather
permitted his guests adjourned to have tea and
coffee under the cedars in the garden. In the
intermediate time is was not unusual to visit his
hothouses and conservatories, under the auspices
of his unmarried sister, Miss Banks ; or the dairy,
which was under the especial care of Lady Banks,
who was proud of displaying a magnificent collec
tion of old china-ware which was there deposited.
The parties at Spring Grove were not the less
agreeable because they generally consisted of a
few persons, and everything was conducted in a
simple and unostentatious manner. " *
Sir Joseph Banks died at Spring Grove,
June 19, 1820. Some years after the house
was puUed down, and. the ground let for
building purposes, and Spring Grove be
came the nucleus of a viUage of viUas, to
which it bequeathed its name. Spring
Grove has become a large district of good
houses, and is daily growing in extent
and population, but Uke most such dis
tricts it has Uttle that is distinctive in
its aspect.
The Church (St. Mary) stands on high
ground between the road and Osterley
Park ; is a spacious, modern Dec. build
ing of smoothed stone, comprising nave
and aisles, chancel, and tall tower and
* Autobiography of the late Sir Benjamin Brodiq,
Bart., p. 74.

spire. The Saddlers' Company Almshouse
for 8 poor persons is at Honnors House.
The London International College, on
the site of the old Spring Grove, is a large
collegiate Gothic brick and stone build
ing, having a frontage 250 ft. long, and
three storeys high, with a fourth storey
in the high-pitched roof, a central tower
with angle turrets and pyramidal roof,
and sUghtly advanced wings. The build
ing, designed by Messrs. Norton, and
inaugurated by the Prince of Wales in
July 1867, has accommodation for 160
pupils. The Wellingtonia gigantea on
the lawn in front of the college was
planted by the Prince of Wales on the
day of opening the college.
STAINES, Middx., a market town
on the 1. bank of the Thames, 17 m. from
London, and a stat. at the junction of the
Windsor and the Wokingham and Read
ing branches of the L. and S.-W. Rly.
Pop. of the town 3469, of the par. 3659.
Inns, Angel and Crown Hotel, High Street ;
Railway, by the stat.
The town stands at the confluence of
the Colne with the Thames, on the site,
as is believed, of the Roman station
Pontes, and at the starting-point of the
great Roman road which traversed Surrey
to Silchester (Segontiacum). The name
is derived from the A.-S. stdn, a stone ;
so applied from the boundary stone which
stood here, marking the western Umit of
the jurisdiction of the City of London
over the Thames ; but in considering this
claim it must be remembered that the
town bore the name of Stanes at the Dom.
Survey. The London Stone, as it is called,
still stands in a meadow near Staines
Bridge, by one of the smaller arms of the
Colne, and has inscribed on it " God pre
serve the City of London. A.D. 1285,"
with the names of various Lord Mayors,
and the dates of their respective official
visits to the stone. The stone was erected
on its present pedestal " in the mayoralty
of Sir Watkin Lewis, 1812." The last
Mayor's name we find inscribed is John
Johnson, 1846 ; while on the S. base is
engraven " Conservators of the River
Thames, 1857." In the regulations of the
Thames Conservancy the City Stone at
Staines is taken as the dividing-point
between the Upper and the Lower
Thames. 36

STAINES.

562

STAINES.

Staines Forest, the western extremity
of the great Forest of Middlesex, was
" unwarrened and disafforested for ever,"
by charter of Henry III., Aug. 18, 1227.
The manor of Staines was granted by
Edward the Confessor to the Abbot of
Westminster. At the Dissolution it became
vested in the Crown, and was granted
by James I. in 1613 to Thomas Lord
Knyvet, and sold by Thomas Knyvet,
Esq., in 1629, to Sir Francis Leigh. It
was conveyed in 1669 to Sir William
Drake, who sold it in 1678 to Richard
Tayler, whose descendant Robert Gibbons
Tayler, Esq., is the present lord of the
manor. After London Bridge, that of Staines
was one of the earliest which crossed the
Thames. " Three oaks out of Windsor
Forest were granted for its repair in
1262," * and the charters for tolls, Acts of
Parliament, and deeds referring to it are
very numerous. Its recent history is
somewhat remarkable. In 1791 an Act
was passed appointing commissioners for
the erection of a new bridge. One was
accordingly constructed from the designs
of Thomas Sandby, professor of architec
ture in the Royal Academy. It was of stone,
of three arches, and was opened in March
1797 ; but within a few weeks sank so
much that two of the arches had to be
taken down. An attempt to rebuild it
was unsuccessful, and it was resolved to
substitute an iron bridge of a single arch
of 180 ft. span. The engineer employed
was Mr. James Wilson, the builder of the
noted iron bridge over the Weir at Sun
derland, but the design was said to be
copied from one by the notorious Thomas
Paine. Paine had erected an arch at
Paddington in order to demonstrate the
value of his system, and the materials
were purchased and employed in the
construction of that at Staines. How
ever that may be, the bridge— begun in
1801 and completed in 1803 — was no
sooner opened than it showed symptoms
of failure. It was closed, and the old
wooden bridge, which had been left stand
ing, was fitted up as a temporary bridge.
A second iron bridge was then erected,
and the old wooden bridge pulled down.
But this too gave way, and as the engi
neers caUed in pronounced it essentially
* Lysons, Environs, vol. ii., p. 240.

weak, it was decided to remove it, and
Mr. George Rennie was empowered to
construct a new bridge somewhat higher
up the river. This was commenced in the
spring of 1829, and opened with much
ceremony by William IV. and Queen
Adelaide, on Easter Monday, April 24,
1832 ; and appears to be as stable now
as when first opened. It is a handsome
granite structure, of three elliptical arches,
the centre of 74 ft., the side arches of
66 ft. span ; two narrow arches over the
towing-path, and six shore arches, serve for
the passage of flood water. It remained
a toll bridge till Feb. 21, 1871, when it
was formally opened as a free bridge —
the remission being the act of the Cor
poration of London.
The town consists of a main street —
High Street and Church Street — above
a mile long, clean, quiet, commonplace,
lined with many good shops, old-fashioned
private houses, inns, a great brewery, and,
at the extreme W. end, the church, clean
and commonplace as all the rest. For
long years past this street has remained
unaltered ; but the bank has been lately
rebuilt, and this innovation will no doubt
lead to others. By the rly. stat., a new
suburb, mostly of small houses, with a
few more pretentious villas, has grown up,
the business works have extended, and
the population has, we are told, about
doubled within the last 10 or 12 years.
Besides Messrs. Ashby's great brewery,
there are the extensive mustard miUs of
Messrs. Finch and Rickman, papier-
mache1 mills, linoleum works, etc. The
neighbourhood is agricultural, and a mar
ket is held every Friday. The Thames
here is favourable for boating and fishing,
and Staines has consequently a great in
flux of summer visitants.
The Church (St. Mary) was erected in
1828, on the site of the old ch. — a much-
patched Gothic building, with some lancet
windows, and a Norm, doorway in the
chancel — which fell down one Sunday
morning. The present ch., designed by Mr.
J. B. Watson, is of brick and stone, and
Gothic of the year 1828 ; large, bald, and
uninteresting ; roomy and neat inside,
with comfortable fittings and a painted
glass E. window. The tower, the lower
part of which was preserved from the old
ch., was erected, as an insc. on it records,
by Inigo Jones, in 1631 ; but the lower

STANFORD RIVERS.

563

STANMORE.

part was repaired and the upper part
added when the present ch. was built : it
is of brick, square, quite plain, with plain
buttresses at the angles, and its uncomeli-
ness is partially veUed by ivy. In the tower
is a peal of 8 bells. Besides the usual
chapels, there is here a very old Quakers'
Meeting-house : the Friends having always
flourished in Staines. The town is now
governed by a Local Board ; and has a
Literary and Scientific Institute, by the
bridge ; a Mechanics' Institute, in Church
Street; a boating club, cricket club, and
the Uke.
STANFORD RIVERS, Essex, on
the Ongar road, and 2\ m. S.W. from
that town; 19 m. from London. Pop.
958 (including 120 persons in the Ongar
Union-house, which is in Stanford Rivers
par.) Inn, White Bear.
The vUl. owes its name to a ford over
the Uttle river Roding, probably paved
on account of the deep miry soil : the
suffix was added— to distinguish it from
Stanford-le-Hope, near Orsett — from the
Rivers f amUy to whom it belonged from
1213, when it became the property of
Richard Rivers by his marriage with the
heiress of the Lucys, till it passed to the
Staffords. Previously it appears to have
been caUed Stanford Parva, or Little
Stanford. Stanford Rivers is a quiet agric. vill.,
with its ch. standing apart among the
fields, half a ndle W. of the main road,
along which stretch most of the few
houses in very irregular order. The
country is secluded and pretty ; there are
green and sylvan lanes, broad weU-tilled
fields, woods and thickets, a gently un
dulating surface, and the Uttle river
meandering through the shaUow valley.
The old famines have passed away, and
now the farmers are the only resident
gentry. The Church (St. Margaret) is a plain
viUage ch. of the Dec. period ; has nave,
chancel, wooden tower, and shingled spire
at the W., and wooden porch at the N.
The interior is equally unadorned. There
are two or three 16th cent, monts., but
none of interest. S. of the nave is a
mural brass to Anne, wife of Wm. Napper,
gent., d. 1584, effigy kneeling, with 6
daughters behind. Haines mentions
brasses of a man in armour, about 1450 ;

a child, Thos. Greville, 1492 ; and Robt.
Barrow, 1503. There is also an insc.
to Robert Green, 1535. The font is
large, E.E., with panels on the sides, a
thick central shaft, and slender shafts
around. Richard Montague, author of
'A New Gag for an Old Goose,' and
other High-Church pamphlets, which at
tracted much notice in the latter part of
the reign of James I. and the early years
of Charles I., was rector of Stanford
Rivers from 1622. Montague was for
mally censured by the ParUament, where
upon Charles appointed him his chaplain,
in order to screen him from the vote of
the House of Commons, thus greatly em
bittering the strife. A late rector (1849-68)
was Dr. Henry Tattam, the distinguished
Oriental scholar.
In the ch.-yard, with " his wife and two
daughters who preceded him," lies Isaac
Taylor, d. 1865, author of the 'Natural
History of Enthusiasm,' ' Ancient Chris
tianity,' etc., who for 40 years (1825-65)
pursued his literary labours in this se
questered village. His house, ''a ram
bling old-fashioned farm-house," stand
ing in a large garden, was on the rt. of
the Ongar road, his study, the walls and
doors " lined with patristic folios," over
looking the valley of the Roding and the
woods beyond.*
STANMORE, STANMORE
MAGNA, or GREAT STANMORE,
Middx., so called to distinguish it from
the adjoining par. of Stanmore Parva, is
on the road to Watford, 2 m. N.W. from
the Edgware Stat, of the Grt. N. Rly. ;
2J m. E. from the Pinner Stat., and a
little farther from the Harrow Stat., of
the L. and N.-W. Rly. Pop. 1355. Inns,
Crown; Vine; Abercorn Arms.
Stanmore is on the border of Herts,
whence probably the name (Stanmere,
Stanmera in Dom.), from Stan-mearc,
a boundary stone. The ground is high,
much broken, picturesque, and abounds
in fine views. The viUage is 284 feet
above the sea-level ; on one hand the
Heath, though much encroached on,
affords many pretty bits of wild wood
land, with distant prospects over Harrow

* Rev. iBaac Taylor, Family Pen, vol. i., p. 65 ;
Josiah Gilbert, Autob. and Memorials of Mrs.
Gilbert (Ann Taylor), vol. ii., p. 93.

STANMORE.

564

STANMORE.

and Londonwards, and on the other
Stanmore Common is stiU a broad open
space, glorious with gorse and heather,
and overlooking a wide extent of country.
" Some high trees on the common" were,
according to the Ambulator (1792), " a
land mark from the German Ocean," but
we have not heard of their serving that
purpose of late years.
The village is neat, clean, genteel. In
and about it are many good houses, bor
dering it are large parks, and richly
timbered grounds. Near the Common is
the extensive brewery of Messrs. Clutter-
buck. ' Dr. Parr opened a school at Stan
more on his removal from Harrow, 1771.
The original church stood at some distance
S. of the present structure or its pre
decessor. On account of its inconvenient
site it was taken down, and a new ch.
erected near the viUage by Sir John
Wolstehholme, and consecrated by Bp.
Laud in 1632. This, now known as the
Old Church, is of brick, with a tower and
porch designed by Nicholas Stone. As
it stands, close embowered in ivy, it
looks picturesque,' but it is reaUy a poor
building. Its baldness and insufficiency
caused its condemnation some 30 years
back, and the erection of a new ch. close by
it on the E. , but on somewhat lower ground,
the old ch. being allowed to stand,
partly on account of the monts. it con
tained, but more, perhaps, on account of
its picturesqueness. The foundation-stone
of the new church (St. John the Evan-
geUst) was laid by Queen Adelaide, her
last appearance in public, shortly before
her decease ; •' it was consecrated Jan. 16,
1850. It is a spacious stone building,
Dec. in style, and comprises nave with
aisles, roomy chancel with S. aisle,
tower with angle turret at the N.W. , and
S. porch. The E. window, by Willement,
is a memorial of Queen Adelaide. The
archt. was Mr. H. Clutton. In the tower
is a peal of 6 bells, removed from Little
Stanmore in 1720. In the old church are
monts. with effigies of Sir John Wolsten-
holme, d. 1639, the founder of the ch., and
of his grandson John Wolstenholme, Esq.,
and wife, Dorothy Vere ; of John Burnell,
citizen and merchant, ¦ d. 1605, and wife
Barbara ; Lord Henry Beauclerk, d. 1761 ;
John Drummond, M.P., d. 1774 ; and
other members of the families of Beauclerk
and Drummond. In the ch.-yard was in

terred Charles Hart, d. 1683, the cele
brated tragic actor, " The Roscius of his
age." He had a country house at
Stanmore, where he was enrolled a copy
holder in 1679, but there is no memorial
of him in the ch. or ch.-yard*
Bentley Priory, the fine seat of Sir
John Kelk, Bart., is to the N. of Stanmore
ch., the park stretching away from it for
1\ m. to StanmoTe Heath. The house
and upper part of the park are in Harrow
par. The priory of Benethley, or Bentley,
of which little is known, was suppressed,
with the other smaller monasteries, in the
early part of the reign of Henry VIII.
The estate appears to have been trans
ferred to the -monks of St. Gregory at
Canterbury, but was exchanged by Cran-
mer with Henry VIII., in 1643, for other
lands. Henry granted the priory house
and lands, in 1546, to Robert Needham,
who, the following year, aUenated them
to EUzabeth Colte. After passing through
various hands, the manor was, in 1788,
purchased by the Marquis of Abercorn,
who made great alterations in the park,
and employed Sir John Soane to rebuild
the house, which he fitted up with great
magnificence, and filled with a fine collec
tion of paintings and other works of art.
Bentley Priory was a famous place whilst
in Lord Abercorn's possession. The Prince
Regent (afterwards George IV.) came
here with the Emperor of Russia and
King of Prussia to meet Louis XVIII.
when he left HartweU to return to France.
In April 1807 Sir Walter Scott, when on a
visit here, corrected the revises of ' Mar-
mion,' and at Lord Abercorn's suggestion
added the complimentary lines on Fox —
" For talents mourn untimely lost,
When best employed,.and .wanted most," etc.
" I have heard, indeed," writes Lockhart,
" that they came from the Marquis's own
pen."f Shortly after the decease of
WiUiam IV., Queen Adelaide rented
Bentley Priory, which she made her prin
cipal residence — to the great benefit of
the poorer inhabitants of Stanmore. She
died here, Dec. 2nd, 1849. Bentley
Priory was purchased in 1854 by Mr.
(now Sir John) Kelk who has greatly
altered the house, built large and costly
conservatories, and otherwise added to
* Lysons, vol. ii., p. 668.
t Lockhart, Life of Scott, chap. xvi.

STANMORE.

565

STANMORE PARVA.

its magnificence. It is now a very stately
and splended structure, and contains a
good collection of modern paintings. Both
house and park command extensive pros
pects, Harrow HiU forming a prominent
feature in the landscape. The gardens
and grounds about the house are celebrated
among horticulturists, and the park is of
great extent, varied in surface, in parts
richly timbered, and very beautiful.
Stanmore Park, the seat of Lord Wol-
verton, lies to the S. of Bentley Priory
and Stanmore ch. The estate, then known
as Belmont, was purchased, about 1729,
by Andrew Drummond, the founder of
the great banking-house. When in the
possession of Mr. G. H. Drummond, the
house was enriched by a collection of
English historical portraits, bequeathed
to the Hon. Mrs. Drummond by the
Duke of St. Albans. The estate was pur
chased by the Marquis of Abercorn in
1 840, and the coUection, which contained
many works by Lely and Kneller, was
sold by auction by Christie and Manson
(June 27, 1840,) for what would now be
regarded as very inadequate prices. The
estate was afterwards purchased by
George Carr Glyn, Esq., and is now the
Beat of his son,. Geo. Grenfell Glyn, Lord
Wolverton. The house is a good modern
budding. The park, though smaUer than
that of Bentley Priory, is very beautiful.
It contains a handsome lake, and at the
south-western extremity, appproched by a
good avenue, is the Mount, with a sum
mer-house on the summit, famed for its
prospects, from which the estate derived
its original name.
Other good seats are — Stanmore Manor
{the Hon. Mrs. Noel) ; Pynacles (Col. L.
McQueen) ; The Hall (R. HoUand, Esq. ) ;
Warren House (S. Keyser, Esq.) ; Broom-
field (Capt. W. Greig), a good modern
Gothic house, designed by Mr. Knowles,
commanding from its lofty site an exten
sive prospect ; The Elms (James Gleig,
Esq.), near the ch.
Great quantities of Roman coins, rings,
fibulae, pottery, etc., have at various times
been found in Stanmore and the vicinity,
from the site of Bentley Priory away E.
to Brockley HUI, whence the rhyme
quoted by Lysons, —
" No heart can think, nor tongue can tell,
What lies between Brockley HiU and Penny-
well."

Pennywell (by Elstree) and Brockley are,
however, both far away to the N.E. of
Stanmore.
STANMORE PARVA, LITTLE
STANMORE, or WHITCHURCH, Midx.,
i m. W. of Edgware, 1 m. S.E. of Great
Stanmore : pop. 818, including, the W. side
of Edgware, which is in Little Stanmore
parish. .
From the reign of Henry III. to the
Dissolution, the manor belonged to the
priory of St. Bartholomew, Smithfield.
Under the name of Canons and Wim-
borough in Whitchurch, it was granted in
1544 to Sir Hugh Losse. . In 1604 it was
bought by Sir Thomas Lake, the amanu
ensis of Sir Francis Walsingham, and
secretary to James I. About 1710, Mary,
great-granddaughter of Sir Thomas
Lake, carried it by marriage to James
Brydges, Esq., afterwards Earl of Carnar
von and Duke of, Chandos (the Timon of
Pope's satire, the Grand Duke of the
multitude). The old house of the Losse
family Lysons supposed to be the " ancient
house on the Whitchurch side of Edg
ware," then as now called the Chandos
Arms. In one of the rooms were the
Losse arms, with the initials R. L., and
the date, 1577. The house, built by
Thorpe for Sir Thos. Lake, and the
palace of the Duke of Chandos, are noticed
under Canons.
Little Stanmore is a quiet agricultural
parish, lying, except the Edgware portion,
away from the main road ; the surface
gently undulating, much of the land
pasture, the lanes shaded by taU old trees,
and varied northwards by. the broad
open slopes and avenues of Canons (Mrs.

To the visitor the chief object of'interest
is the Church (St. Lawrence), of old
famous as the chapel of Canons. It stands
amidst old trees, and the fields between
it and Canons retain their park-like
aspect. There was a private chapel at
Canons, but the Grand Duke came in
state on Sundays to the public service in
the parish ch„ and he wished the ch.
not to be behind the chapel in splen
dour. He accordingly pulled down the
body ofthe ch. (then called Whitchurch),
and raised the present structure in its
place (1715-20). Tradition says that he
would have rebuilt the tower also, but

STANMORE PARVA.

566

STANMORE PARVA.

that the parishioners, anticipating his
munificence, hastened to sell the bells
(see Stanmore, Great), and he, in dis
gust at their cupidity, left the tower
standing. The building is comparatively plain
outside — the " severely simple " classic of
the early part of the 18th century — but
within, stately, pompous, and uncommon.
It consists of a nave, without aisles, and
. a smaU chancel raised by 3 steps from the
nave, and separated from it by richly
carved oak columns. At the W. end is
the Chandos gaUery. But what gives its
pecuUar character to the interior is the
costly and unusual decoration. Walls
and ceUing are alike resplendent with
paintings and carved work. On the walls
between the windows are figures in mono
chrome of the Evangelists and the Seven
Cardinal Virtues. On the recess, behind
the altar, are paintings by Bellucci of
Moses Delivering the Law, and Christ
Preaching the Gospel. On the sides of the
organ are the Offering of the Magi and
the Descent from the Cross. At the W.
end, over the Chandos gallery, is a copy
of Raphael's Ascension, by Bellucci. 'The
ceiling of the chancel is painted azure and
powdered with golden stars. In the
panels of the nave ceiling are 8 paintings
by Laguerre of events in the life of the
Saviour. " On painted ceilings you devoutly 'stftre,
Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and La
guerre."*
Pope, in denying that by Timon's VUla
lie meant Canons, says that ' ' the paintings
[at Canons Chapel] are not by Verrio
and Laguerre, but Bellucci and Leeman."f
Rhyme, and the desire to conceal the
direct personaUty of his satire, would
account for Pope using the former and
weU-known' names rather than the latter
and comparatively obscure. But Lysons,
writing with the'Veftue MSS. before him,
says distinctly that "the ceilings and
walls are painted by Laguerre, the
Nativity (Adoration of the "Magi) and a
Dead Christ, On each side of the altar, by
Belluchi.",-]: -That Verrio could have had
no hand in the Stanmore pictures "is
evident, as he was dead a dozen years
* Pope, Epistle to the Earl of Burlington.
t Letter to Aaron Hill, Feb. 5, 1732.
t Lysons, Environs, vol. ii., p. 673.

before they were begun, but about
Laguerre's participatioin, there can be
Uttle doubt. ,But whoever the paintings
are by, they are good specimens of their
class. The carved work is ascribed to
Grinling Gibbons, and if not actually
carved by him was probably executed
under his direction. That all might be
in harmony, the Duke presented the ch.
with a superb service of silver-gilt
communion plate. This is displayed in
part on communion Sundays, but the
whole is set out on the altar only on the
great festivals of Christmas, Easter, and
Whit Sunday, and on Bishop's visitations.
The Organ, which stands in the chancel
behind and just above the altar, is interest
ing as being that on which Handel played.
Is was built by Jordans for the place it
occupies, and is small, but of very sweet
tone. An insc. on it, placed there in
1750, states that " Handel was organist
of this church from the year 1718 to
1721, and composed the oratorio of Esther
on this organ." As mentioned under
Canons, Handel was chapel-master to tbe
Duke of Chandos, and not only played on
the organ, but composed some 20 anthems
for the service ; the music for the morn
ing and evening services being composed
by Pepusch. As long as the Duke reigned
at Canons the service was performed by
a carefully selected vocal and instru
mental choir. Handel is beUeved to
have written his oratorio Esther for the
opening of the ch., Aug. 20, 1720 : it was
certainly performed here in that year —
Dr. Randall of Cambridge, Bird, and
Savage being among the vocalists.
On the N. side of the ch., and entered
from it, is the Chandos Chapel, or Monu
ment Room, in which the Duke of Chandos
is buried. His mont. bears a long and
pompous insc, and a statue of the Duke
in Roman costume and flowing wig, sup
ported by kneeling life-sized effigies of his
first two wives : his third wife (married
1736, d. 1759) it may be remembered (as
a fly in his pot of manna) was "often
reproached with being bied up in Bur
Street, Wapping."* The Duke's mont.
having fallen into disrepair, was restored
by the Duke of Buckingham in 1864-5.
Several other monts. of members of the
Brydges family are in the vault. Sir
* Mr. Pendarves to Swift, April 22, 1736.

STANMORE PARVA.

567

STANSTEAD ABBOTS.

Thomas Lake, King James's secretary,
was buried in the church.
In the ch. -yard, E. of the ch., was a low
wooden rail mont. having painted on one
side " Sacred to the memory of WiUiam
Powell, the Harmonious Blacksmith,
died Feb. 27, 1780, aged about 78," and on
the other, " He was Parish Clerk at this
Church many years, and during the Time
the Immortal Handel resided much at
Cannons with the Duke of Chandos.
Erected by permission of the Rev. G.
Mutter free of expense, through the exer
tions of Rd. Clarke and Henry Wylde,
1835." But this humble rail was in 1868
displaced by a substantial stone bearing,
in a sunk medalUon, hammer, anvil, laurel-
leaf, and a bar of music, and a somewhat
modified insc, to the effect that " He was
parish clerk during the time the immortal
Handel was organist of this church."
This is the PoweU whose rhythmical
beating on his forge — one form of the tra
dition says in accord with a tune he was
singing or whistling, the other with the
church beUs then merrily pealing, —
suggested to Handel his charming melody
of the Harmonious Blacksmith. * The
story is at least doubtful, and it seem3
certain that Handel did not himself give
the air its popular title. But the natives
cherish the belief, and Dr. Schalcher, who
investigated the story with all the patient
zeal of a German biographer, says that
when he " made » pilgrimage to Edge-
ware, a sort of square shed, standing in
the midrile of the great street was shown
to him as being the veritable forge used
by Powell. "f The shed stood on the spare
space between the road and footway, on
the Whitchurch side of Edgware, but the
tradition connecting it with Powell is,
we fear, recent. Schalcher's conclusion
is that the tradition that Handel derived
the tune from the sound of Powell's ham
mer, " whether true or not, remains un
verified." %
Behind the ch. is a snug-looking alms
house, built by Dame Mary Lake, and
augmented by Dame Essex Drax, execu
trix of Sir Lancelot Lake, 1693, for four
poor men and three women, who, besides
* Clarke, Reminiscences of Handel, his Grace
the Duke of Chandos, Powell, etc., fol., 1836.
t Schalcher, Life of Handel, 1859, p. 66.
t Ibid., Appendix.

lodging, are supplied with coals and a
small annuity. There is also an endowed
school founded by Sir Lancelot Lake.
STANSTEAD ABBOTS, Herts,
2J m. S.E. from Ware, and a Stat, (at
St. Margaret's) on the Grt. E. Rly. (Hert
ford and Ware br.) 22 m.from London:
pop. 1057. Inn, the Pied BuU.
Stanstead (Dom. Stansteda) received
the suffix of Abbots from Michael de
Wanney having given the moiety of the
manor to the Abbot of Waltham. The
other moiety he sold to Henry II. , who
transferred it to the Abbot. The manor
was held by the Abbots till the Dissolu
tion ; it afterwards passed through many
hands, and is now the property of Thomas
Fowell Buxton, Esq.
The Village, Stanstead Street, of old a
town, extends from the Lea Navigation by
St. Margaret's to the Ware road, where
a branch of the Lea crosses it. The ch.
is a mile distant, within Stansteadbury
Park. Stanstead Street is a long, dirty,
but busy-looking street, lined with houses
of most irregular kind, some good and
new, or if old, substantial ; others small,
mean, and not a few dilapidated. Several
cottages are of wood and plaster, and
thatched. By the Lea are wharfs, mills,
and malt-houses ; along the street many
' publics,' maltings, a brewery, large
buUders' yards, a shabbily picturesque
smithy, and a heterogeneous variety of
shops, some quite rustic in their varied
business — that of W. Miller, for example,
having over the front "Draper and
Clothier, Family Grocer, and Butcher,"
and supplying also sweets and toys for
children, and stationery and fancy articles
for adults. There are besides chapels, a
Uterary institute, a workmen's reading-
room, almshouses, and a school.
Turning rt from Stanstead Street to
wards Roydon you pass through a very
pretty half-mile of road overhung with
trees, till you reach Stansteadbury and
Stanstead ch. But obs. at the parting of
the roads, just before reaching the ch.,
the great oak, 18 ft. in girth at 4 ft. from
the ground, and spreading wide over the
road on either side.
The Church (St. James) stands on high
ground within the pale of Stansteadbury,
within sight of the Roydon Stat., and
about \ m. from it. The ch. is of flint

STANSTEAD- ST. MARGARET'S. 568

STANWELL.

and stone, the body roughcast; in the
lower courses of the chancel some Roman
tiles are worked up. It has nave, chancel
with N. aisle or chapel, tower at the W.
end, containing a peal of 4 old bells, and
crowned with a short thin leaden spire of
the usual Hertfordshire type. On the S.W.
is. an old oak 'porch. The ch. is in the
main of the Dec. period, but Perp. windows
have been inserted on the N. of the nave.
The chapel on N. of chancel was built by
Ralph Baesh, lord of the manor, in 1578.
The tower has a Perp. doorway with good
carving in the spandrels ; Dec. upper
windows ; buttresses, battlements, and an
angle turret ; and is partly covered with
ivy. The interior is that of an ordinary
country ch., but the ch. was restored in
1866, and much altered both inside and
out. In the chapel are several monts. to
members of the Baeshfamily. Obs. small
mural mont. to Edward Baesh, d. 1687,
" General Surveyor of the Victuals for the
RoyalNavy,. . .under 4 princes of this land,
viz. King Hen. VIII., King Edward VL,
Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth:"
kneeling effigies of himself, wife, and 2
chUdren. Before leaving the ch.-yard,
obs. the fine horse-chesnuts which sur
round it, and the extensive views along
and over the valley of the Lea. A path
nearly opposite the ch.-yard, by the great
gravel-pit, leads across the Rye Meads to
Rye House. Obs. at the entrance to this
path, the great oak, almost as large as
that noticed above, but hollow.
Stansteadbury (Capt. E. Spencer), the
old manor-house, by the ch., is a large
many gabled mansion, of late thoroughly
" restored " (or transformed), and now a
very ornate building. The grounds are
extensive and pleasing. Obs. the large
cedar on the lawn, in front of the house.
Other good seats are Easney Park (Thos.
Fowell Buxton, Esq.), and Stanstead Hall
(D. E. Langham, Esq.)
STANSTEAD ST. MARGARET'S,
Herts, on the Lea, opposite Stanstead
Street (see Stanstead Abbots), with
which it is united by a bridge, and a stat.
on the Grt. E. Rly. Pop. 107. Inns,
Crown; Railway Tar em.
St. Margaret's consists of a few scattered
cottages — there were but 23 houses in the
par. in 1871 — the inn with a malt-house
opposite it, and the ch. . hardly a village,

but rural, embowered in trees, and in
summer leafy and pleasant ; the " wUlow-
shaded Stanstead" of Scott of Am well's
verse. Heretofore, says Chauncy, called
Thele, it had a coUege so named, " in old
time founded of one custos and 4 chap
lains to celebrate divine service for the
souls of the founders thereof," which had
to be reformed in the reign of Henry VI.,
in consequence of the negligence and
misconduct of the* custos, and was swept
away at the Dissolution. The Church
(St. Margaret) is a donative of smaU
value, held by the Rev. Chas. Pratt, the
lord ofthe manor : a plain little country
ch. lying back from the road, half -hidden
among trees. Of flint and stone, roughly
plastered over, it consists of nave and
chancel of the same pitch, with a Uttle
wooden bell-cote, rising from the W. end of
the red-tiled roof. On the N. may be
seen traces of an aisle removed at an early
period, when small windows were inserted
within the blocked arches. The windows
on the S. are much larger. In the chancel
is a good 5-Ught late Dec. window, with
flowing tracery, and carved heads at the
ends of the dripstone. S. of the chancel
is a priest's door, closed. The interior
is plain, filled with high pews, and has
a gaUery at the W. end. The monts. are
of no interest. Hoole, the translator of
Tasso, was for awhile resident here.
From St. Margaret's there is a pleasant
walk of about | of a mile, by the New
River to Amwell. Take the path on 1.,
nearly opposite the ch. street, and ascend
the bank : the New River is on your 1.,
a clear and fishful stream, the rly., and
beyond it the open Lea valley on your
rt.-: the path is a good one all the way,
and the opposite bank is throughout over
hung with trees.
STANWELL, Middx., (Dom.
Stanwelle) an agril. vill., 2 J m. N.E. of
Staines, on the road from Bedfont to
Colnbrook, and on the Isleworth and
King's rivers. Pop. of the par. 1955, but
this includes 324 in St. Thomas, Colnbrook,
and 242 in Staines Union Workhouse,
which is situated about 1 m. from the viU.
on the road to Staines.
Stanwell lies on the Buckinghamshire
border, the Colne river being its western
boundary, and dividing it from Horton,
Colnbrook, and Iver. The country is flat,

STANWELL.

569

STANWELL.

but green and pleasant, especially on the
Bucks side. Stanwell is a secluded vill.
of a few humble cottages, some better
houses standing apart in wen-sheltered
grounds or pretty gardens. The little
Green might tempt the sketcher or
painter. In the centre stands a huge old
elm, its lowest branches broken, but still
vigorous, full of leaves, of good form,
and fortunate in its accompaniments.
Beyond it is the wheelwright's shop,
with an occasional flare from the forge,
and in front a wild array of broken- carts,
ploughs, trunks of trees. Close at hand is
a rustic inn, the Five BeUs. Overthe ch.-
yard yews and elms rises the vUlage
spire. Old men and children give Ufe and
colour to the foreground.
The Church (St. Mary) is of stone with
some flints interspersed; and comprises
large Perp. nave and N. aisle ; S. aisle,
longer than the N., and E.E. ; deep chan
cel, lower than nave, Dec, with 4-light E.
window, plastered, and supported by
brick buttresses; smaU square tower, of
flint and stone, in chequers, and- taU
octagonal shingled spire ; small transepts
with gable ends, and modern plate tracery
in the windows ; wooden porch on the
N., and red-tiled roofs. The int. is large
and airy, the nave wide, the aisles narrow.
Obs. the arcades of octagonal piers- and
equUateral arches, and clerestorey, — rebuUt
when the ch. was restored in 1863, — tim
ber roof, ceiled between the main beams,
painted glass in chancel, and open oak
seats. Near the N. door, removed from
the chancel, is a canopied altar tomb,
with matrices of effigies, the brasses lost,
of Thomas Windsor, d. 1486 (father of
Andrews, 1st Lord Windsor) ; interesting
as illustrating the use in a par. ch. of a
tomb as the Easter Sepulchre. By his
last wiU, made 1479r Thomas Windsor
directs that his body shall be buried on
the N. side of the choir of StanweU ch.,
" afor the ymage of our Lady, wher the
sepultur of our Lord stondith." His
tomb is to be a plain " tomb of marble of
a competent height, to thentent that yt
may ber (bear) the blessid body of our
Lord, and the sepulture at the time of
Estre, to stand upon the same," etc. Four
tapers of wax, each weighing 10 lb., and
22 wax torches, each weighing 16 lb., are
to be carried, lighted as well at " the time
of my burying as at my monethes mynde,"

by 24 very poor men, who are to have
Sd. apiece and a gown of frieze ; the 4
tapers are then to be given to the ch., 2 of
them to burn yearly, as long as they will
endure, " before the sepultur of our Lord
at Estre, and the other 2 to help the light
that standeth upon the branch before the
image of our Lady." Four of the torches
are bequeathed to Stanwell ch., the others
to 16 of the nearest parishes* in Mid
dlesex.* There are bequests to priests
and poor persons, for 100 children, each
within the age of 16 years, at his month's
mind [monthly commemorative service], to
say our Lady Psalter, etc., — but the above
is what relates to the Easter sepulchre.
A more showy tomb is that of Thomas
Lord Knyvet, d. 1622, and Elizabeth his
wife, N. of the chancel. The tomb is
supported by Corinthian columns, and has
life-sized kneeUng effigies in the elaborate
costume of the day. It was executed by
Nicholas Stone, and cost £215. This Lord
Knyvet founded and endowed the Stan
well Free School, on the Staines road.
Bruno Ryves, author of the Mercurius
Rusticus, was vicar of Stanwell at the
great rebellion, was ejected, but restored
on the return of- Charles IL, and retained
the Uving till 1662.
Stanwell Place, the manor-house, N.W.
of the ch., is a spacious modern mansion,
formal and. dull outside, commodious and
richly fitted within. It stands in a park
of moderate size, rich in timber, especiaUy
elms and chesnuts, with a branch of the
Colne flowing through it and forming a
lake, with swans and all desirable ame
nities, and approached through stately
gates which indicate a former more
magnificent mansion. Early in the 12th
cent, the manor belonged to Walter
Fitzother, and was inherited by his son
WiUiam, who, being warden of Windsor
Castle, assumed the name of Windsor.
The manor continued in the Windsor
family till 1543, when Henry VIII. forced
Andrews, 1st Lord Windsor, much against
his will, to exchange his ancestral estate
for the manor of the suppressed Abbey
of Bordesley in Worcestershire. The
king's measures were prompt and peremp
tory. He sent Lord Windsor a message
that he would dine with him at StanweU
on a certain day.
* Collins, Peerage, ed. 1779, vol. iv., p. 74;
Lysons, vol. iii., p. 257.

STANWELL.

570

STAPLEFORD ABBOTS.

" He accordingly came, when he was magnifi
cently entertained. Whereupon the king told
him he liked that place so well that he was re
solved to have it ; yet not without a more bene
ficial exchange. And the Lord Windsor answering,
he hoped his highness was not in earnest ; it
having been the seat of his ancestors for many
ages, and humbly begging he would not take it
from him. The king with a stern countenance
replied 'It must be,' commanding him on his
allegiance, to go speedily to his Attorney General,
who would more fully acquaint him with his
reasons for it. . . . He repaired accordingly to
the Attorney General, who showed him a draught
ready made, of an exchange of his lordship of
Stanwell ... in lieu of Bordesley Abbey. Whereof
being constrained to accept of this exchange,
he was commanded to quit Stanwell, though he
had then laid in his Christmas provisions for
the keeping of his wonted hospitality. All which
he left in the house, saying, ' They should not
find it bare Stanwell.'" *
Leases were granted of the manor-house
and lands by Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
and EUzabeth; and in 1603 James I.
granted to Sir Thomas Knyvet the site of
the manor and demesne lands. Knyvet
was a favourite of James, who placed his
daughter, the Lady Mary, under his care,
and she died at Stanwell in 1607. In
1613 the king granted to him, being then
Lord Knyvet, the estate, subject to a rent
of £100. Lord Knyvet died in 1622,
having settled the manor in moieties on
his great-nephew, John Cary, and his
great-niece, EUzabeth Leigh, grand
children of his sisters. The family wished
to maintain the manor intact by their
marriage, and a decree was obtained in
Chancery to that effect. But EUzabeth
Leigh married Sir Humphrey Tracey ;
and in 1678 a deed of partition was exe
cuted by which John Cary became sole
lord of StanweU manor. Not deterred
by the ill-success of marriage awards in
his own case, Caiy, by wiU dated 1686,
bequeathed the manor to his great-niece,
EUzabeth, only surviving daughter of
Lord WiUoughby of Parham, provided
that within three years of his decease she
should marry Lord Guildford, faUing
which condition the estate should go to
the Falkland family. The lady, however,
disapproved the selection, and married
the Hon. James Bertie ; but a judgment
of the House of Lords preserved her life-
interest in the manor, and gave the
reversion to Lucius Henry Lord Falkland.
Mrs. Bertie died in 1715 ; and Lord
* Dugdale, " on the information of Thomas,
Lord Weston : " Collins, Peerage, vol. iv., p. 82.

Falkland sold the manor to John Earl of
Dunmore, in 1720. Lord Dunmore died
in 1762, and two years after his executors
sold it to John Gibbons, afterwards Sir
John Gibbons, Bart., K.B.,* in whose
descendants it has since remained, It is
now the property and seat of Sir John
Gibbons, Bart.
West Bedfont, a hamlet \ a mile E. of
Stanwell, on the road to East Bedfont,
was of old an independent manor, but has
merged in that of StanweU.
Poyle is another hamlet, 2J m. N.W. of
StanweU, near Colnbrook, consisting of a
few scattered houses, the Punch Bowl inn,
a chapel, and the large paper-miU of
Messrs. Ibetson and Sons.
Perry Oaks is another outlying irre
gular hamlet, about 1 m. N.E. from Stan
weU, on the road to the Magpies.
That portion of Colnbrook which Ues
E. of the Colne, is in StanweU parish.
(See Colnbrook.)
STAPLEFORD ABBOTS, Essex,
(pop. 611,) Ues S. of the Ongar road
and of the river Roding, 1 J m. E. of Lam
bourne. The ford from which it derives
its name is between Stapleford Abbots
and Stapleford Tawney, It owes the
suffix Abbots to having been the property
of the Abbots of Bury St. Edmund's.
There is no vill. ; the principal seat,
Albtns, is described under its title. The
Church (St. Mary), which is about 1 m.
S. of Passingford Bridge, the old ford,
was rebuilt 1861-2 (Mr. T. Jeckell, archt.),
except the old brick tower at the W., and
the Abdy pew or chapel on the N. The new
building is of Kentish rag, Dec. in style,
and consists of nave and chancel, with a
porch of carved oak and stone on the S.W,
The only noticeable mont. is one in the
Abdy pew to Sir John Abdy of Albyns,
which has a good medalUon portrait.
Over the door of this pew is fixed an
Abdy helmet. Dr. Godfrey Goodman,
afterwards Bp. of Gloucester, and author
of the ' Memoirs of the Court of James I.,'
held the living in 1606. Thomas Day,
the author of ' Sandford and Merton,'
Uved here for awhUe, and made one of
his unsuccessful experiments in buUd-
* Lysons, vol. iii., pp. 251 — 253.
t Memoirs of R. L. Edgeworth, p. 223.

STAPLEFORD TAWNEY.

571

STOKE D'ABERNON.

STAPLEFORD TAWNEY, Essex,
(pop. 271,) Ues chiefly on the N. of the
Ongar road and the Roding river : the
churches of the two Staplefords are If m.
apart, in a direct line N. and S. Both
parishes are agricultural. The country is
undulating, weU wooded, and pleasing.
There is no village, no general shop, and
the only inn is the Talbot, at Passingford
Bridge, on the Ongar road. The Church
(St. Mary) stands on high ground, and is
a conspicuous landmark. It was restored,
or rebuilt, in 1862. It is small, of flint
and stone, with a wooden turret and
spire ; is E.E. in style, and consists of a
nave, chancel, and S. porch. The interior
is without interest. Suttons (Sir C.
Cunliffe Smith, Bart.) stands in a fine park
on the S. of the Ongar road.
STIFFORD, Essex, stands on
high ground, above the little Marditeh
brook, 2 m. N. from the Grays Stat, of
the Southend Rly. Pop. 211. Inn, Dog
and Partridge.
A quiet, secluded, agricultural village of
clean thatched cottages, it affords a
charming stroll from Grays. From the
station take the path across the fields, be
tween the two great chalk-pits; then a
lane bordered by hornbeam hedges and
hedgerow elms, — and here look back for
occasional dips in the road which lead
the eye to a broad reach of the Thames,
spotted over with steamers and saUing
craft, set in a woodland frame — take the
field-path on 1. past a disused chalk-pit,
now overgrown with tangled trees and
shrubs, through the farmyard of Sugar-
loaf House, and straight to the ch.-yard.
The Church (St. Mary) looks well,
standing apart in a quiet burial-ground
surrounded by tall trees ; but was de
prived of its wonted air of hoar anti
quity by restoration in 1865. It consists
of nave and chancel, of flint, with iron
stone worked in irregularly, a south aisle
of ironstone and conglomerate, and a low
square ivy-clad tower with shingled spire,
from the N. side of which projects a bell-
cote covering a single bell. The S. aisle
of the chancel is E.E. ; the chancel and
S. aisle of nave Dec. ; the nave, of 2
bays, Perp. The N. doorway is plain
Norman. The" door itself is old, of oak,
with good original scroll hinges. The

interior is that of a neat well-kept village
ch. Obs. the coloured pattern on last shaft
and arch of S. arcade of nave; piscina
and shelf above— new or rechiselled—
in chancel ; old heraldic shields in 2
windows S. of chancel, and large un-
omaniented E.E. font. On floor N. of
chancel are two brasses (half-length) of
priests, Ralph Perchehay, quondam rector,
of 14th cent., the other 15th cent., with
the hands supporting a heart. On the wall
are brasses of John Ardalle, gentylman,
lord of Styfford, d. 1504, and wife ; and
of three members of the Latham family —
Wm. Latham, gent., late lord of Stiff ord,
d. 1622, and Susan his wife in rich robe
and ruff ; Ann Latham, 1627, in ruff and
furred robe; and Eliz. Latham, 1630.
The garden of the cheerful-looking, long,
low, half-timber rectory opens into the
ch.-yard. The vill. extends W. towards
Stifford Bridge, and there is a pleasant
field walk from it to South Ockendon.
Stifford Hall, E. of the ch. (W. P. Beech,
Esq.), and Ford Place (Charles Moss,
Esq.), on the opposite side of the Marditeh,
are the principal seats. Of old the manor
belonged to the De Crammavilles, and
lately to the Broderers' Company, of
whom it is now held on lease by R. B.
Wingfield Baker, Esq.
STOKE D'ABERNON, Surrey,
on the 1. bank of the Mole, 2J m. N.W.
from Leatherhead, 2 m. S.E. from Cob
ham ; pop. 356. Stoke D'Abernon is
secluded and somewhat inaccessible. The
readiest way to reach it on foot is to take
the lane on rt. after leaving Leatherhead
Stat., go through Randall Park, and then
along the lane, leaving Platsome Green
to the rt., past Bullock's Farm ; but a
pleasanter and shorter route, in dry
weather, is to turn to the 1. on leaving
Randall Park, cross the Mole, and by
field paths to Slyfield, 1 m. W. (see
Bookham, Great), when Stoke D'Aber
non ch. will be seen about \ m. N. There
is no vUlage proper. A few houses and
cottages are dispersed along the road
to Cobham ; the church, the only thing a
stranger is likely to visit Stoke D'Abernon
for, is within the grounds of the Manor
House. Stoke (Stoche in Dom.) received its
distinctive designation from the D'Aber
non family, to whom it belonged early in

STOKE D ABERNON.

572

STOKE D ABERNON.

the 13th cent., and who retained it till
1359, when it passed by the marriage of
EUzabeth D'Abernon to Sir W. Crosier.
For several generations the air of Stoke
seemed to favour only heiresses. The
heiress of the Crosiers carried the manor by
marriage to- Sir Henry Norbury, whose
heiress conveyed it in like manner to
Sir Richard HaleighweU ; his daughter,
Jane, conveyed it to her husband, Sir
Edmund Bray, captain of the band of
gentlemen pensioners to Henry VIII.,
who created him Baron Bray. Dying
before his wife, she married for her second
husband Sir Uriah Brereton. Leaving
no son, her estates were on her death,
1559, divided among her 6 daughters.
Stoke fell to the share- of Frances, who
married Thomas Lyfield, and died leaving
only a daughter, Jane, who married
Thomas Vincent, by whom the charm
was broken. Vincent was knighted by
Queen EUzabeth, who visited him at
Stoke. In 1606 Sir Thomas Vincent was
sued at Westminster by the Attorney-
General for usurping liberty of court-
leet and free-warren within his manors ;
but after a long inquiry Sir Thomas made
good his title at aU points. He died in
1613, and the manor descended in regular
succession to Sir Francis Vincent, who d.
in 1809, leaving two sons, minors, and
shortly after the trustees sold the manor
to Hugh Smith. It is now held by the
Rev. F. P. PhiUips. Sir Francis Vincent
built, 1776, the first bridge here ; pre
viously the Mole had to be crossed by a
ford, impassable in floods, and always
more or less dangerous.
There was a church at Stoke when the
Dom. Survey was made, and itis customary
in architectural works to speak of the
present ch. as containing "vestiges of
Saxon architecture."* No vestige is
visible now, nor has there been any for
many years past. The chancel arch was
semicircular, and was by some called
Saxon, but it was taken down and a
pointed arch substituted when the ch.
was restored in 1854. The ch. was re
stored anew, in accordance with more
advanced ecclesiastical tastes, in 1866,
and in the course of the two restorations
so much was taken down and rebuilt, so

* Bloxam, Principles of Gothic Eccl. Archit.,
0th ed, p. 92 ; Glossary, vol. i., p. 329.

much recast, remodelled, and rechiselled,
so much old work replaced by new, and
so much new work made to look like old,
that it would now be unsafe to trust the
apparent antiquity, or attempt to dis
tinguish the relative ages of any parts of
the fabric. Essentially no doubt it is
E.E., but the superficial features have aU
been more or less renewed. The ch.
comprises nave and N. aisle, chancel,
chantry* chapel erected by Sir John
Norbury,. about 1520; and small tower
and shingled spire rising from the W.
gable. The interest of the church- Ues in the
brasses, which are among the most re
markable we possess. On chancel floor,
brass of Sir John D'Abernon, about
1277, the earUest and one of the largest
brasses in England. It is 7 ft. 6 in. long,
and very well engraved. The knight —
fuU life-size — has his feet resting on a
Uon couchant, is habited in a suit of mail,
basinet, and knee plates ;. has a long
spear, two-handed sword, over his mail
a surcoat cut open in front ; on his left
arm a shield with enamelled field, the
azure enamel almost perfect.* By it is
a brass of his son, Sir John D'Abernon,
d. 1327. This is 6 ft.. 4 in. long. The
change in the armour in the half-century
is remarkable. Plate is to a great extent
substituted for mail, and where mail is
employed it is of a very different pattern.
The casque is different ; the surcoat is
entirely changed in form, and much more
ornamented. Over the head of the younger
knight is a canopy. Against pier, small
brass, 12 in. long, with effigy in shroud,
of Eliza, daughter of Sir Edmond May,
d. 1316. Monts. — S. of chancel, altar-
tomb with recumbent effigy of Sarah
Lady Vincent, d. 1608; curious Eliza
bethan dress, large ruff, her hair spread
out from under a great hood : on front of
tomb, in relief, her 5 sons and 2 daughters,
kneeUng. In Norbury chapel, within
niche, smaU kneeUng effigy in armour of
the founder, Sir John Norbury, executed
at the cost of Sir Francis Vincent in 1633.
N. side of this chapel, a costly altar tomb
to Sir Thomas Vincent, d. 1613, and wife,
Jane, d. 1619, with recumbent effigies, of
the knight in armour leaning on his
* The brass is engraved on a large scale, and
coloured, in Messrs. Waller's Monumental Brasses.

STOKE POGES.

573

STOKE POGES.

elbow, the lady in elaborate costume, with
hands raised in prayer.
Several of the window have painted
glass. In the E. window are the arms
of the famiUes who have owned the
manor from the D'Abernons downwards.
In Oct. 1875, two windows received
memorials of Bps. Sumner and Wilber
force. The pulpit is well carved in panels.
Against the pier by it is a wrought-iron
hour-glass stand, one of the very few
remaining. Here too is still in use a
substantial oak church-chest, of the E.E.
period, one of the two oldest known,*and
much finer than the other, which is at
Climping ch., Sussex.
The Manor House is the residence of
the Rev.F. P. PhilUps ; Woodlands Pari,
of John Smith, Esq.
Ocksliot (formerly Oxhot, probably a
corruption of Oaks-holt, the oaks copse)
is a sequestered hamlet on the western
edge of Stoke Common, about 2 m. N.E.
from Stoke D'Abernon ch. In it is a
school for boys and girls, founded by the
Duchess of Kent, and used on Sundays
for divine service.
STOKE POGES, Bucks, Gray's
burial-place and the seene of his Elegy,
is about 2J m. N. of the Slough Stat, of
the Grt. W. Rly. — a pleasant walk by
shady lanes and field paths. Pop. 1850 ;
but the par. is very large, comprising 3343
acres, and includes parts of the town of
Slough and the hamlet of Salt HiU.
The manor of Stoches was held by
WilUam 'Fitz-Ausculf at the Dom. Survey.
In the reign of Edward I., Amicia de Stoke
conveyed it by marriage to Robert Pogeys,
who was chosen knight of the shire in
1300. By the marriage of his grand
daughter Egidia, it passed to Sir John
Molins, treasurer to Edward III. MoUns
obtained a Ucence from the King to fortify
and embattle his manor-houses at Stoke
and Ditton, and to hold them exempt
from the authority of the King's marshal.
He was also (empowered to hold a fair of
six days' continuance, beginning on the
feast of St. Giles, -at Stoke. From the
Molins it passed, by the marriage of
AUanore, daughter of Sir Wm. Molins, to
Sir Robert Hungerford, afterwards Lord
* Engraved in Parker's Glossary of Architecture,
Hate 31.

Hungerford and MoUns, beheaded at
Newcastle after the battle of Hexham.
His son, Sir Thomas Hungerford, was
beheaded at Salisbury, 1468, for taking an
active part in the attempt to restore
Henry VI. His daughter Mary married
Edward afterwards Lord Hastings, who
on the accession of Henry VII. was
restored to the forfeited family estates.
Henry Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon,
rebuilt the house in the early part of the
reign of Elizabeth. Shortly after the
estate was seized by the Crown for a debt.
Sir Edward Coke, the great lawyer, ob
tained a lease of the house, and here in
1601, being then Attorney-General, he
entertained Queen EUzabeth.
" Now, I think, she (the Queen) be at the farthest
for this year, and they say is driving back to
Windsor ; where, at her last being, I forgot to tell
you that she made a step to Mr. Attorney's at Stoke,
where she was most sumptuously entertained, and
presented with jewels and other gifts, to the amount
of £1000, .or £1200.*
Coke, then Lord Chief Justice, obtained
a grant of the manor from James I. ; -f-
here spent in retirement his last years,
and here died, Sept. 3, 1634 ; his house
having been searched for seditious papers
only three days before his death by Sir
Francis Windebank, under an order in
council, and all bis legal MSS. carried off.
On Coke's death the manor passed to his
son-in-law Vi-Uiers, Visct. Purbeck, and in
1647 Charles I. was for a short time kept
a prisoner here.
Stoke was sold to John Gayer in 1656,
and on his decease in 1657 passed to his
elder brother, Sir Robert Gayer. In 1723
it was bought by Edward Halsey, M.P.,
whose daughter and heiress, Anne,
married Sir Richard Temple, afterwards

* John Chamberlain to Dudley Carleton, Sept.
10, 1601 ; Nichols, Progresses of Q. Eliz., vol. iii.,
p. 568.
t Lysons, Magna Brit. : Buckinghamshire, says
that King James I., "about the year 1621, granted
the manor in fee to Lord Chief Justice Coke," and
the same statement is made in other county his
tories and topographical works. But the date
must be wrong ; the grant must have been made
at least 5 years before. Coke was dismissed from
the chief -justiceship in 1616, and was in disgrace
in 1621, the asserted date of the grant. But what
decides the matter is that on the marriage of Coke's
daughter with Villiers in 1616, the reversion of
the manor of Stoke was settled on them, and
Villiers was in 1619 created a peer, with the title
of Baron Villiers of Stoke Poges and Viscount
Purbeck.

STOKE POGES.

574

STOKE POGES.

Visct. Cobham. Lady Cobham surviving
her husband, retired to Stoke, and whilst
residing at the manor-house gave occasion
to Gray's famous 'Long Story.' Her
executors sold the manor to Thomas Penn,
son of William Penn, the founder of
Pennsylvania. It remained in the Penn
family till 1848, when it was purchased
by the Rt. Hon. Henry Labouchere,
created, 1859, Baron Taunton. On the
death of Lord Taunton it was bought by
its present owner, E. J. Coleman, Esq.
Stoke Manor House was rebuilt by
Lord Huntingdon about 1560. It was a
large rambling red-brick mansion with
projecting wings and pointed gables,
sunny bays and oriels, tall roofs and
quaintly grouped stacks of carved brick
chimney-shafts. Inside were large low
rooms, long galleries, and capacious
kitchens with huge fireplaces, emblems
of the ancient hospitality ;
" Rich windows that exclude the light,
And passages that lead to nothing. "
Gray was Uving at Stoke with his
mother, when he was surprised by a visit
of Lady Cobham, who, admiring the
Elegy, wished to make the author's
acquaintance ; " and as the beginning of
this acquaintance had some appearance of
romance, he soon after gave a humo
rous account of it in the verses which
he entitled a Long Story." * Gray
describes the house and its associations
very pleasantly, but he was misled by the
tradition f that affirmed it to have
belonged to " Huntingdons and Hattons,"
into telling how
" Full oft within the spacious walls,
When he had fifty winters o'er him,
My grave Lord- Keeper led the brawls ;
The seals and maces danced before him."
Wherever my grave Lord- Keeper led the
brawls, it was not at Stoke Manor. The
" ancient pile " was pulled down by John
Penn in 1789, with the exception of a
wing, which was left as a memorial. It
stands but a short way from the ch., and
is worth visiting. With its, quaint gable
and chimney shafts, and ivy'mantUng, it
is a picturesque object. Inside are the
great kitchen, with its wide fireplace, and
» Mitford's Gray, p. 147.
t The only ground for the tradition seems to be
the fact that Henry Lord Huntingdon mortgaged
the house towards the end of the 16th cent.

an upper floor with heraldic devices on the
walls, and various sage mottoes, "Feare
the Lord," "Obey the Prince," "Love
thine Enmis," and the Uke.
The old house stood in a low sheltered
position ; the present mansion occupies a
higher site. It is one of the elder Wyatt's
classic structures, of brick covered with
stucco, cold, dignified, and spacious, with
some exceUent state-rooms : it has, how
ever, been a good deal altered. The S.
front has a colonnade of 12 columns, with
a projecting tetrastyle Ionic portico. The
N. front has ten columns of the Tuscan
order. The park, of 670 acres, is well-
wooded, and many of the oaks, beeches,
and elms are of large size ; well stored with
deer ; gently undulating in surface, and
varied by a streamlet being led through
it, and forming in the midst a long lake.
In the upper part of the park, towards
the N.W., is a column, 68 ft. high, sur
mounted with a colossal statue of Sir
Edward Coke, by Rossi. On the eastern
side, close to Stoke ch., Mr. Penn erected,
1799, a cenotaph "in honour of Thomas
Gray, among the scenes celebrated by
that great Lyric and Elegiac Poet." It
stands within an enclosure, open to the
visitor. Stoke Manor was celebrated in
Lord Taunton's time for the choice pic
tures in the house : the present owner has
rendered it attractive to agriculturists by
the successful scientific farming opera
tions and extensive irrigation works
carried out on the Home Farm.
Many churchyards have claimed the in
spiration of Gray's Elegy. If " Written
in a Country Churchyard " is to be
rendered literaUy, it is to Stoke that the
glory must be assigned. Tradition has
been constant to this effect. Between
1741-58 Gray used to spend his summer
vacations at Stoke in the house of his
mother and aunt. Shortly before' he wrote
the Elegy, his aunt, to whom he was much
attached, had been laid in the church
yard. Gray had hastened to console his
mother, lonely and in feeble health, and
he was already dreading that he might
ere long have to lay her beside the sister
she mourned. Church, churchyard, and
surrounding scenery, correspond closely
with the descriptions and imagery of the
Elegy. And we have his own testimony
that the poem was finished at Stoke : —
" I have been here at Stoke a few days (where I

STOKE POGES.

O/O

STOKE POGES.

lhall continue a good part of the summer) ; and
having put an end to a thing, whose beginning you
have seen long ago, I immediately send it to you.
You will I hope look on it in the light of a thing
vith an end to it ; a merit that most of my writings
have wanted, and are likely to want. " *
That this " thing with an end to it "
was the Elegy no one has ever doubted :
and there is just as Uttle reason to doubt
that the ch. and ch.-yard are those of
Stoke, if they are not a mere poetic
fiction. In the ch.-yard, immediately E. of the
ch., is the plain tomb which the poet
raised over the vault which contains the
remains of his aunt, Mary Antrobus, d.
1749, and, "beside her friend and sister, . . .
Dorothy Gray, widow ; the careful tender
mother of many children, one of whom
alone had the misfortune to survive her."
She d. March 1753. Gray died in July
1771, and was laid in the same vault, but
no friendly hand added an inscription to
his memory ; and though when the costly
monument was erected 20 years later in
the adjacent park, there was engraven on
it that the great poet " Ues unnoticed in
the adjoining churchyard," it does not
seem to have occurred to the buUder that
he might supply the omission with as
httle trouble or cost as record it. How
ever, after another half-century had
passed, a plain slab was fixed under the
E. window of the ch., which points out
the poet's burial-place.
Stoke Church (St. Giles) has nave and
aisles, chancel with S. aisle, or Hastings
Chapel, massive ivy-mantled tower and
modern wooden spire at the E. end of
the N. aisle, and a large and good oak
porch on the S. Close to the porch are
two venerable and wide-spreading yews.
Church and ch.-yard are in aspect and
feeUng notably picturesque, sombre,
solemn. The ch. is of various dates. The
chancel is Norm., but the chancel arch
was rebuUt in 1844. The original windows
on the N. are blocked up, and the E.
window is an insertion of the Perp. period.
The nave arcades are late E.E., as are
some of the double lancets within enclosing
arches in the aisles, the others being
Dec. The Hastings Chapel was built in
1567. The interior was partiaUy restored
in 1860, and refitted with an oak pulpit
and seats. Obs. 3 sediUa on N. of chan-
** Gray to Horace Walpole, 12th June, 1750.

eel, piscina on S. In the chancel is a
canopied tomb, without effigy or insc,
supposed to be that of Sir John Molins,
treasurer to Edward III. Obs. at W. end
of N. aisle mural tablet by Flaxman to
his friend Nathaniel Marchant, R.A., d.
1816, a distinguished gem engraver ; on
upper part a Une of medals, an emble
matic female figure, and a medallion of
George III. on horseback. Brass with
effigies of Sir Wm. MoUns, d. 1425, and wife.
Two or three other brasses are of Uttle
value. In the cloisters, N. of the ch. , are
several pieces of painted glass, chiefly ar
morial, from old Stoke Manor House.
West End, the house in which Gray's
mother lived, and he wrote much poetry
and many letters, now called Stoke Court
(J. Darby, Esq.), is about 1 m. N. of the
ch. Gray described it as » " compact
neat box of red brick, with sash windows,
a grotto made of flints, a walnut-tree
with three mole-hills under it," etc., but
the house was rebuilt by Mr. Penn, about
1845, on a larger scale, and is now a
gentlemanly villa. The room in which
Gray wrote was, however, preserved un
altered, and forms a part of the present
house. The walnut tree and grotto were
retained, and the " basin of gold fishes "
greatly enlarged. There is a charming
walk of Uttle more than a mile from West
End to Burnham Common and Burnham
Beeches, celebrated by Gray. (See Burn
ham Beeches.)
Stoke Place, \ m. S.E. of Stoke ch.,
was the seat of Field Marshal Sir G.
Howard, d. 1796. It now belongs to
Col. R. H. R. Howard Vyse. The park is
celebrated for its lake and cedars. Stoke
Farm (Lady Maria Molyneux), the pro
perty of Earl Sefton, stands in a small
but very pretty park.
The manor of Ditton was possessed,
along with that of Stoke, by Sir John de
MoUns, who obtained Ucence from Edward
III. to embattle both manor-houses. A
new house was built on the site of that at
Ditton by Sir Ralph Winwood, Principal
Secretary of State to James I. The manor
passed by marriage to the Montagues, and
was carried by the daughter of John Duke
of Montagu to her husband, Lord Beau-
lieu, who bequeathed it to his niece,
EUzabeth Duchess of Buccleuch. The
house, when the residence of John Duke
of Montagu, d. 1749, was celebrated for

STONDON MASSET.

576

STONE.

the hospitality maintained, and the gather
ings of the wise and witty in it. The
house was destroyed by fire April 28,
1812, and rebuilt in 1813 by the Duchess
of Buccleuch. It is now the property and
a residence of the Duke of Buccleuch.
Ditton Park lies between Langley Marsh
and Ditton, 3i m. S.E. of Stoke ch. The
house is large and stately, with something
of a picturesque character from a tower
and some other portions of the old house
preserved from the fire having been worked
up in it, and the moat being retained.
The park contains much fine timber.
Baylis, the property of the Duke of
Leeds, IJ mile S. of Stoke ch., towards
Salt Hill, is an old red-brick mansion,
erected by Dr. Godolphin, Provost of
Eton, 1695. It was the residence of
Lord Chesterfield, of the Letters to his
Son ; and afterwards of Alexander Wed-
derburn, Earl of Rosslyn, who died in it,
Jan. 1805. It has for many years been
occupied as a Roman CathoUc educational
estabUshment. A chapel in it is open for
pubUc service. Salt Hill, noticed under
Eton and Slough, is in this parish.
STONDON MASSEY, Essex, 2|
m. S.E. from Ongar Rly. Stat., pop. "285,
is a quiet secluded place, hardly a vUlage,
comprising a couple of good mansions, a
rectory, half a dozen scattered farms, and
a church which stands alone at the angle
of the road leading to Stondon Hall, once
a manor, now a farm-house. The Church
(St. Peter and St. Paul) is. a plain Uttle
building ; the N. aisle Norm., the rest
Perp.; restored in 1874. It consists of »
nave and chancel, with a priest's door on
the S. ; a wooden belfry, with 3 bells, and
a shingled spire, rising from the red-tiled
roof at the W, and a wooden porch at the
S.W. The interior is of no interest. From
the ch. -yard some wide views are obtained
over a thickly wooded and fertile country.
Stondon Place is the residence of F. E.
Brace, Esq. ; Stondon House of Capt.
Francis Baker.
STONE, Kent (Dom. Estanes),
on the Dover road, 1 m. W. of the Green-
hithe Stat, of the S.-E. Rly. (North Kent
line), 2£ m. W.N.W. of Dartford. Pop. of
par. 1617, but this includes 176 in Green-
hithe, 306 in the City Lunatic Asylum,

and 41 in the County Female Penitentiary,
leaving 1094 in Stone proper.
The pop. is very scattered, and there is
hardly anywhere what can be called a
village. Agriculture is the chief employ
ment. Corn and beans are much grown,
and there are extensive fruit gardens.
Chalk and gravel pits, Portland cement,
lime, and whiting works, and a brewery
employ many hands.
Stone was given, it is said, to the Bp.
of Rochester in 995.; and no doubt the
manor belonged to the see from a very
early date. The bishops had a house here,
the distance making it a convenient rest
ing-place between Rochester and London.
The Ecclesiastical Commissioners now
hold the manor. Here, toq, as Philipott
writes, was " formerly a castle which
acknowledged the Northwoods for its
founders." It dated from the reign of
Edward III., " and although it now Ues
wrapped up in its own ruins, yet the
shell or skeleton of it, within which Sir
Richard Wiltshire laid the foundation of
that fabric now extant, represents to the
eye some symptoms of itsformer strength
and magnificence." This was written
more than two centuries ago, and of what
was then left of the castle, a smaU tower
alone remains. There is nothing of general
interest in the history of rthe castle or in
its descent. It stands to the S. of the
Dover road, about a, mile S.E. of Stone,
in pleasant park-like grounds, and is the
residence of W. Munro Ross, Esq. Other
seats are Stone Park (Thomas Bevan,
Esq.); Barnsfield House (W. O. White,
Esq.) The Church (St. Mary), architecturally
one of the most interesting of the Kent
churches, stands, with the rectory, almost
alone, on the edge of the marsh, across
which there is a path of about \ m., with
¦the Thames on your 1., to Greenhithe.
The ch. door is generally left open, but if
closed the key may be obtained at the
rectory. The building was restored
throughout in 1860 by Mr. G. E. Street,
R.A., and has a, look of newness which
somewhat detracts from the impression
its age, position, and architectural beauty
would otherwise produce: but the renewed
portions are said to be careful reproduc
tions of the originals. It is of flint and
stone, and comprises nave and aisles,
chancel, and low massive W. tower, with

STONE.

577

STRAND-ON-THE-GREEN.

buttresses. A peculiar effect is produced
by the chancel roof being higher than
that of the nave, and nearly as high as
the tower. In the main the ch. is late
E.E. in character. Mr. Street says, '¦ The
chancel, nave, aisles, and western tower
are E.E. ; and were probably built during
the episcopate of Laurence de St. Martin
(Bp. of Rochester from 1251 to 1274).
In the 14th cent, the vestry N. of the
chancel was added, and the windows at
the W. end of the nave and aisles were
inserted. The tower piers were also
altered at this time. In the 16th cent.
the WUtshire Chantry, forming the N.
chancel aisle, was added." * Obs. door
way at W. end of the aisle with chevron
moulding, which, however, Mr. Street
thinks is " no doubt a curious instance of
imitation of earUer work, rather than evi
dence of the doorway itself being earUer
than the rest of the church."
The interior wUl repay close examina
tion. The nave arcades, of 3 bays, have
tall E.E. arches, borne on light clustered
columns, thin shafts of Sussex marble
intervening between the stouter stone
shafts. The arches are well proportioned,
and have deep mouldings with the dog
tooth in the centre. The roof is of timber,
ceUed. The chancel arch has around it
a band of foUage, with richly foliated
quatrefoUs in the spandrels. The chancel
is stiU more ornate ; indeed, as Mr. Street
observes, " the most remarkable feature
in the design is the way in which the
whole of the work gradually increases in
richness of detail and in beauty from west
to east." Around the waUs of the chan
cel is an arcade with Sussex marble shafts,
the spandrels filled with foliage of ex
ceeding delicacy andbeauty. Thewindows
and groined roof are new, but " in strict
accordance with the original design."
Most of the windows are filled with
painted glass. S. of the altar is a piscina.
The floor is laid with encaustic tiles and
coloured marble. Obs. brasses on floor of
Lambarde, rector, 1408, small effigy in
centre of a cross fleuree (very good) ;
John Sorewell, rector, 1439. In the
vestry is a good altar tomb, with matrix
of brass effigy on Purbeck marble slab ;

* Street : Account of the Church of St. Mary,
Stone, Kent, 1861 ; originally printed in the Archaj-
ologia Cantiana, vol. iii.

nameless, but said to be of Sir John
Wilshyre, Controller of the town and
marches of Calais under Henry VIII. On
the wall of the N. aisle several paintings
were uncovered when the ch. was restored:
the best preserved is a Virgin and Child.
Stone ch. was built whilst the chief
works were in progress at Westminster
Abbey, and Mr. Street is of opinion — and
on such a subject his opinion is of the
highest value — that the two churches were
the work of the same architect. He gives
in detail the points of resemblance in
design, materials, and workmanship. W.
of the ch. is a yew-tree of good size and
form. On an elevated site by the Dover road
is the City of London Lunatic Asylum,
erected 1862-66, at a cost of £66.000,
from the designs of Mr. Bunning, the
City architect. The original building
provided for 250 inmates, and a wing
added in 1874 provides for 70 more.
Without much architectural pretension
the building is pleasing in appearance,
commodious, and abundantly supplied
with sanitary appliances. It stands in
spacious grounds, from which good views
are obtained of the river and surrounding
country. By the Brent. 2 m. from Dartford, is
the Kent County Female Penitentiary.
a good building, erected in 1866 for 50
inmates.
STBAND-ON-THE-GEEEN,
Middx., an irregular line of houses stretch
ing for about J m. along the Thames, from
the foot of Kew Bridge towards Chiswick,
to which par. it belongs. Here are exten
sive malt-houses, boat and barge building
yards and wharves, a few good residences,
many poor ones, and several inns.
Until the early part of the last century
it consisted almost wholly of fishermen's
hovels. A few houses of a better sort were
then erected, and for a time it was in some
favour. Joseph Miller, the comedian, better
known by his Jest Book as ' Joe Miller,'
died at his house here Aug. 15, 1738, and
was buried in St. Clement's Dane burial-
ground, Portugal Street, London. David
Mallet, the poet, lived here ; his first wife
(died 1742) is buried at Chiswick. John
Zoffany, R.A., died at his house here in
1810, and was buried at Kew. Zoffany
used the fishermen of Strand-on-the-Green 37

STRATFORD.

57S

STRATFORD.

or Brentford as models for his pictures.
In a ' Last Supper,' which he painted as
an altar-piece for Old Brentford ch., he
copied the features of several of the fisher
men with so much success, that they were
afterwards commonly designated by their
apostoUcal sobriquets — somewhat, it is
said, -to the disgust of the wife of Judas,
surnamed Iscariot.
The peculiar wooden structure on the
eyot, opposite Strand-on-the-Green, was
built originally as a collecting-house for
the tolls paid to the City by river craft.
Here now are the Thames Conservancy
Works. The iron bridge which here
crosses the Thames, without adding to
its beauty, belongs to the Richmond and
Hammersmith branch of the L. and S.-W.
Rly. STEATFORD, or STRATFORD
LANGTHORNE, Essex, extends from
Bow Bridge for li m. along the Romford
road, and for a considerable distance along
the roads to Low Leyton and Leytonstone.
The Broadway is 3 J m. from Whitechapel
ch. There are three stats, on the Grt. E.
Rly., Stratford Central, Stratford Bridge,
and Forest Gate. Stratford Langthorne
is a ward of West Ham par., and had
23,286 inhab. in 1871 — since greatly in
creased. Stratford has become a considerable
manufacturing district. Much of the
land is low and marshy, and being well
provided with rly. faciUties, and the navi
gable Lea on one side of it affording ready
access to the Thames and docks, it has
become the home of many factories which
find difficulty in obtaining sites so near to
London. Besides the old-established corn-
mills, distilleries, breweries, chemical and
dye-works by the Lea, there are now ex
tensive engineering establishments, print
works, jute spinning mills, manufactories
of vestas and matches, printing ink, aniline
colour, varnish, soap and candle factories,
oil, grease, creosote, bone-boiUng, paraffin,
coprolitemitro-phosphate, guano,and other
artificial manure and gas and tar works,
and a variety more of an equally unfra-
grant character. But at the northern end
of the town, from the Broadway, where the
roads diverge, there are still green spaces,
roads Uned with trees, and good private
residences. The town itself has little
that is attractive, beyond the churches,

the Town Hall, and the factories for those
who feel an interest in them. Of old,
Stratford was regarded as a part of West
Ham, but it has long outgrown the mother
par., which lies on one side in quiet ob
scurity. Stratford Langthorne Abbey, for monks
of the Cistercian order, was founded in
1135 by William de Montfichet, and en
dowed with the manor of West Ham and
other estates in the county. The abbey
stood in the marshes, on a branch of the
Lea known as the Abbey Creek, or Sea-
river Channel, about J m. S. of Stratford
Broadway, and in its early days suffered
so much from floods, that the monks were
compelled to migrate to a cell on their
estate at Burghstead, near Billericay ; but
the buildings being " reedified by King
Richard," the monks returned, and the
abbey became a flourishing establishment.
The abbot was summoned to Parliament
in 1307. John de Bohun, Earl of Hereford
and Essex, High Constable of England,
was buried in the abbey in 1335. William
Huddlestone, the last abbot, surrendered
the abbey to Henry VIII. in March 1538 ;
the net revenue was then estimated at
£652. Henry, in 1539, granted the site
to Sir Peter de Meautis, who had been his
ambassador to the French court. At this
time, Margaret Countess of Salisbury —
the last in the direct line of the Plantage-
nets — was residing within the abbey pre
cincts. Two years later, May 27, 1541,
she was beheaded for high treason. Henry
Meautis sold the abbey in 1633 to Sir John
Nulls, whose son sold it in 1663 to Richard
Knight ; and in 1786 it was purchased of
Richard Dudlas Knight by Mr. Thomas
Holbrook. Up to this time, many portions of the
abbey appear to have been standing. But
Mr. Holbrook destroyed nearly all that
was left, dug up the foundations of the
monastery, and, " after having built walls
with some of the stones, has sold quantities
of them to great advantage. " * A gateway
of the abbey was left " standing over the
road from the mUls ; " in a field were
" the remains of one of the chapels, now
used as a stable," a doorway, and various
fragments in the garden of the Adam and
Eve, a pubUc-house which had been buUt

* Ambulator, 1792, p.
p. 728.

Lysons, vol. i.,

STRATFORD.

579

STRATFORD.

on a portion of the site. The Adam and
Eve retains its old position, and a frag
ment of the doorway is still attached to it,
but so imperfect and suspicious — having
to all appearance been rebuilt — as not to
be worth visitmg. During Mr. Holbrook's
operations, gravestones, leaden coffins,
and coins were exhumed; but the only
antiquity " worthy of note, was a small
onyx seal, with the impress of a griffin,
set in sUver, on which is the foUowing
legend : Nuncio vobis gaudium et sa-
lutem," * the seal, no doubt, of one of the
abbots. The abbey precincts, of about 16
acres, were surrounded by a moat. The
Adam and Eve and the Abbey MUls are
now considered to belong to West Ham,
not Stratford. Close by is the Mid Level
Pumping Station of the MetropoUtan Main
Drainage. Stratford Church (St. John) was erected
in 1834, from the designs of Mr. Blore, on
what was the village Green, at the parting
of the roads to Romford and Leytonstone.
It is a large and commodious structure, of
Suffolk brick and Bath stone, E.E. in style,
with a tower and short spire. It cost
£23,000, but has no great architectural
merit. Originally a chapel-of-ease to West
Ham, it was made a district ch. in 1844,
and a parochial vicarage in 1868. In
front of the ch. is a granite obeUsk, 40 ft.
high, with a drinking fountain, designed by
Mr. j. BeU, erected in 1861, as a memorial
of the late Samuel Gurney, by bis feUow-
parishioners. Christ Church, in the High Street, close
to the Main Drainage Works, is a respect
able Dec. buUding, of hammered stone,
with a good tower and spire, also of stone.
Obs. near it the Local Board School, a
cheerful looking and good building.
St. Paul, Maryland Road, is a rather
fanciful fabric of various coloured bricks,
erected in 1865 from the designs of Mr. E.
B. -Keeling. There are also churches at
Forest Gate and Stratford New Town, but
they do not caU for particular notice.
Stratford New Town is a dense collec
tion of small houses, by the rly. stat.,
originally called Hudson Town — the Rail
way King being then at the head of the
Great Eastern Rly. ; but on the fall of that
potentate the name was changed.
The Roman CathoUcs have a chapel,
* Lysons, vol. i., p. 728.

dedicated to St. Vincent dc Paul, a neat
Italian building erected in 1868, in Grove
Crescent Road ; and a Convent of Jesus
Mary, Park House, in the Grove. The
Congregational Church, Grove Crescent
Road, is a large and costly classical ItaUan
edifice, erected a few years since, from .tlnj
designs of Mr. Rd. Plumbe. The front
has a lofty portico of six composite
columns with very ornate capitals, and
pediment, and on the rt. a, campanile
tower. The only secular building of note, is
the Town Hall (or Public Offices and
Vestry Hall), erected in 1867-69, from
the designs of Messrs. Giles . and Angeli.
It is semi-classic in style, with two fronts,
each of about 100 ft., that towards the
Broadway of Portland stone, that in West
Ham Lane of white brick and stone.
The Broadway front has a portico of two
stages with poUshed red granite shafts,
and a tower 100 ft. high ; and' the buUd
ing is surmounted with statues of Bri
tannia, St. George, Science, Art,Commerce,
Industry, Justice, Mercy, Fortitude, Pru
dence, and Temperance.
The Bridge which unites Stratford
with Bow — the Stratford-atte-Bow of
Chaucer and our old writers down to
Will Kempe — occupies the place of. that
built at the beginning of the, 12th cent.
by Matilda, Queen of Henry I. The old
bridge, which had been so often repaired
as to leave Uttle of, the original recognis
able, was taken down in 1835, and the
present one erected on its site, from the
designs of Messrs. .Walker and Burges..
It was formally opened Feb. 14, 1839.
It is a substantial stone structure of a
single elliptical arch, 66 ft. in span and
of very flat curve. The old bridge was
of three narrow arches, very wide piers
with angular projections. The original
width was only 13 ft. 6 in. between the
parapets, widened to 21 ft. in 1741. On
it was a chapel (long, since removed)
called St. Katherine's Chapel-upon-Bow-
Bridge. When taken down, the piers of
the old bridge showed neither settlement
nor fracture. They were laid on gravel
a few feet below the bed of the river,
without piling of any kind.* Queen
Matilda is said to have founded another

* Archaeologia, vol. xxix.
Bridga by Mr. Burges.

Account of Bow

STRAWBERRY HILL.

580

STRAWBERRY HILL.

,bridge called Channel Sea Bridge, over
an affluent of the Lea, for the service of
Stratford Abbey.
STKAWBERRY HILL, Twick
enham, Middx., the famous "Gothic
Castle " of Horace Walpole (Earl of
Orford) and now the seat of Frances
Countess of Waldegrave and Lord Car-
lingford, stands on a gentle elevation
about 300 yards from and overlooking the
Thames, immediately above Twickenham.
The Strawberry Hill Stat, of the L. and
S.-W. Rly. (New Kingston line), 'is a
short distance W.
The history of Horace Walpole's Straw
berry Hill is best told in his own words :
" Where the Gothic castle now stands, was origi
nally -a siriall tenement, built in 1698 [by the Earl
of Bradford's coachman] aDd let aa a lodging-house.
Cibber once took it and wrote one of his plays
here, ' The Refusal, or the Lady's Philosophy. '
After him, Talbot, Bishop of Durham, had it for
eight years ; then Henry Bridges, Marquis of
Carnarvon, son of James Duke of Chandos, and
since Duke himself. It was next hired by Mrs.
Chenevix, the noted toy-woman, who, on the
death of her husband, let it to Lord John Philip
Sackville, second son of Lionel Duke of Dorset :
he kept it about two years, and then Mr. Walpole
took the remainder of Mrs. Chenevix's lease in
May 1747, and the next year bought it by Act of
Parliament, it being the property of three minora
of the name of Mortimer." *
Walpole was fond of the locality and
delighted with his acquisition. When
a boy he had spent a summer with his
tutor at Twickenham, and may have
retained an early liking for it. At any
rate he never tired of lauding the scenery
and the associations of
"Twit'nam, the Muse's fav'rite seat."
The commencement of his occupancy
was thus announced to his two most
intimate friends : —
" I may retire to a little new farm that I have
taken just mit of Twickenham. The house is so
small that I can send it you in a letter to look at.
The prospect is-, as delightful as possible, command
ing the river, the town, and Richmond Park ; and
being situated on a hill, descends to the Thames
through two or three little meadows, where I have
some Turkish sheep and two cows, all studied in
their colours for becoming the view. This little
rural bijou was Mrs. Chenevix's, the toy woman
& la mode, who in every dry season is to furnish
me with the best rain water from Paris, and now
and then with some Dresden-china cows, who are
* Walpole : A Description of the Villa of Mr.
Horace Walpole, at Strawberry Hill, near Twick
enham, p. 1.

to figure like wooden classics in a library : so I
shall grow as much a shepherd as any swain in the
Astrsea. " * "Twickenham, June 8th, 1747.
" You perceive by my date that I am got into
a new camp, and have left my tub at Windsor. It
is a little plaything house that I got out of Mrs.
Chenevix's shop, and is the prettiest bauble you
ever saw. It is set in enamelled meadows with
filigree hedges :
A small Euphrates through the piece is roll'd,
And little finches wave their wings in gold.
Two delightful roads, that you would call dusty,
supply me continually with coaches and chaises ;
barges as solemn as Barons of the Exchequer
move under my window ; Richmond Hill and
Ham walks bound my prospect ; but, thank God !
the Thames is between me and the Duchess of
Queensberry. Dowagers as plenty as flounders
inhabit all around, and Pope's ghost is just now
skimming under my window by a most poetical
moonlight." t
It was not till a year later, when he
had completed the purchase, that the
name was found which he was to make
so famous.
" I am now returning to my villa, where I have
been making some alterations : you shall hear
from me from Strawbekry Hill, which I have
found out in my lease is the old name of my house ;
so pray, never call it Twickenham again. I like
to be there better than I have liked being anywhere
since I came to England. " J
When Walpole rented Mrs. Chenevix's
house, it -was little more than a cottage,
and the grounds were of narrow compass,
As soon as he became its owner, he began
to enlarge the house and extend the
grounds. _ The cottage grew into a villa,
the villa into a mansion. In this there
was nothing uncommon ; the novelty
consisted in his deliberately adopting the
then proscribed Gothic style. As early as
Jan. 1750, he writes to Sir Horace Mann
that he is " going to build a little Gothic
Castle at Strawberry Hill," and asks him
to " pick me up any fragments of old
painted glass, arms, anything," if there
are any such things to be found among
the old chateaus in Italy .§ For the
grounds, he writes to the same corre
spondent somewhat earlier, "I have got
four more acres, which makes my terri
tory prodigious in a situation where land
* Horace Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, June 5,
1747; Letters, vol. ii., p. 85.
+ Horace Walpole to the Hon. H. S. Conway ;
Letters, vol. ii., p. 86.
t Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, June 7, 1748 :
Letters, vol. ii.,p. 113.
§ Walpole's Letters, vol. ii., p. 190.

STRAWBERRY HILL.

581

STRAWBERRY HILL.

is so scarce, and villas as abundant as
formerly at Tivoli and Baise. I have now
about fourteen acres, and am making a
terrace the whole breadth of my garden
on the brow of a natural hill, with
meadows at the foot, and commanding
the river, the village, Richmond HiU, and
the park, and part of Kingston." *
Having formed his plan, Walpole carried
it out in a systematic though deliberate
way. He was his own architect, and with
Bentley as draughtsman, visited cathe
drals, abbeys, castles, manor-houses, and
colleges, and made copies of whatever
would serve as a model or furnished a
suggestion. Windows, doorways, groined
roofs, cloisters, screens, tombs, were bor
rowed from Westminster or Durham, St.
Albans, Lincoln, Salisbury or Winchester,
Oxford or Cambridge, for like, or more
often for unlike features at Strawberry.
By slow degrees the cottage grew into
a castle ; for many years its transforma
tion seeming to be its master's most
serious occupation — as in the succeeding
years was the collection and arrange
ment of its rich and multifarious contents.
The plan was sketched in 1760; but " the
Castle was not entirely built from the
ground, but formed at different times by
alterations of and additions to the old
small house. The library and refectory,
or great parlour, were entirely new built
in 1753 ; the gallery, round tower, great
cloister, and cabinet in 1760 and 1761 ;
the great north bed-chamber in 1770; and
the Beauclerk tower with the hexagon
closet in 1776." -f
Walpole designated his house " a fan
tastic fabric," a "romance in lath and
plaster." If the house and its contents
are regarded as heterogeneous, he will
not defend them by argument. " It was
built to please my own taste, and in some
degree to realize my own visions." He
has observed the Gothic style not only in
the architecture but in the fittings and
furniture, but he did not mean to make
his house " so Gothic as to exclude con
venience, and modern refinements in
luxury. The designs of the outside and
inside are strictly ancient, but the decora
tions are modern." Could he " describe
the gay but tranquil scene where it stands,
* Walpole to Sir H. Mann, Dec. 26, 1748.
t Walpole, Description of the Villa, etc. : Introd.

and add the beauty of the landscape to
the romantic cast of the mansion ....
at least the prospect would recall the
good humour of those who might be dis
posed to condemn the fantastic fabric,
and to think it a very proper habitation
of, as it was the scene that inspired, the
author of the Castle of Otranto."
There was some affectation in this hu
mility. Walpole really believed his house
would go far to effect an entire change in
architectural taste ; and there can be little
doubt that it did much to call attention
to the long-neglected and comparatively
despised wealth of Gothic architecture in
the country, and to stimulate the investi
gation of its principles and peculiarities,
and thus prepare the way for the remark
able Gothic revival by which our own
time has been distinguished. But Wal-
pole's work found ample recognition in
his own day. Gothic houses were built
in imitation of Strawberry Hill, and
Strawberry Hill itself became the fashion.
"* Some talk of Gtuinersbuiy,
For Syon some declare ;
And some say that with Chiswick House
No villa can compare :
But all the beaux of Middlesex
Who know the country well,
Say that Strawberry Hill, that Strawberry
Doth bear away the bell." *
Not only beaux of Middlesex, and idlers
about town, but people in every pro
fession, lords and ladies, dukes and
duchesses, came to see Strawberry Hill ;
foreign ministers, and indeed most
foreigners of distinction, made a point
of visiting it, and an English tour was
deemed incomplete if Strawberry Hill
were not included in the programme.
Walpole pretended to be annoyed : he
had not, he declared, a quarter of an
hour of peace in it ; his whole time was
taken up in giving tickets for seeing it,
and hiding himself while it was seen ;
and he warns his friend never to build
1 ' a charming house for himself between
London and Hampton Court : everybody
will live in it but you."
But he relates the visits of the more
distinguished sightseers with unmistake-
able gratification. It is curious now to
read how a grand party of this kind was
received somewhat over a century ago.
* Lord Bath's Stanzas to the old tune of Rowe's
ballad on Dodington's Mrs. Strawbridge, 1765.

STRAWBERRY HILL.

582

STRAWBERRY HILL.

On a May morning in 1763 came the
Comtesse de Boufflers, Madame Dusson,
Lady Mary Coke, Lord and Lady Holder-
nesse, the Duke and Duchess of Grafton,
Lord Hertford, -Lord Yilliers, Messieurs
de Fleury, Duclos, and the afterwards too
famous Chevalier D'Eon. They breakfast
in " the great parlour," and the host has
" filled the hall and large cloister by turns
with French horns and clarionets." They
are taken to see the printing-press which
Walpole has set up in the garden, where
some impromptu verses are struck off in
honour of the French ladies, and " the
Duchess of Grafton, who had never hap
pened to be here before, perfectly entered
into the air of enchantment and fairyism,
which is the tone of the place, and was
peculiarly so this day." *
At other times he records the visits of
the Archduke and Archduchess, of the
Princess Emily, -of the Prince and Princess
of Wales, and, as the crowning honour, of
George III. and his Queen.
"The King and Queen have been here this week
to see my castle, and stayed two hours. I was
gone to London but a quarter of an hour before.
They were exceedingly pleased with it, and the
Queen so much that she said she would come
-' +

The f£tes at Strawberry were so cele
brated that, as we have described a break
fast, it'may be well to give a companion
picture of a dinner there : —
" Strawberry has been in great glory ; I have
given a f estino there that will almost mortgage it.
Last Tuesday all France dined there : Monsieur
and Madame du Chatelet, the Due de Liancourt,
three more French ladies, whose names you will, find
in the enclosed paper, eight other Frenchmen, the
Spanish and Portuguese ministers, the Holder-
nesses, Fitzroys, in short we were four-and'-twenty.
They arrived at two. At the gates of the castle
I received them, di-essed in the cravat of Gibbons'
carving, and a parr of gloves embroidered up to
the elbows that belonged to James I. The French
servants stared, and firmly believed 'this was the
dress of English country gentlemen. After taking
a survey of the apartments, we went to the print
ing-house, where I had prepared the enclosed
verses, with translations by Monsieur de Lille, one
of the company. .The moment they were printed
off, I gave a private signal, and French horns and
clarionets accompanied this compliment. We then
went to see Pope's grotto and garden, and -returned
to a magnificent dinner in the refectory. In the
evening we walked, had tea, coffee, and lemonade
in the Gallery, which was illuminated with a thou-
* Walpole to George Montagu, May 17, 1763 ;
Letters, vol. iv., p. §0.
t AValpole to Sii' Horace Mann, June 9, 1766 ;
Letters, vol. iv., p. 504.

sand, or thirty oandles, I forget which, and played
at whisk and loo till midnight. Then there was
a cold supper, and at one the company returned
to town, saluted by fifty nightingales, who, as
tenants of the manor, came to do honour to then-
lord."* Strawberry Hill, when completed, was
a Gothic building, but Gothic of no parti
cular period, class, or style. Windows,
doorways, and mouldings of the 13th
cent., stood side by side with others of
the 16th or 16th. Ecclesiastical were
commingled with secular features, colle
giate with baronial or military. Next to
an abbey entrance, was the oriel of an
Elizabethan manor-house, -or the keep of
¦a, Norman castle, while battlements and
machicolations frowned over wide bay-
windows that opened on to the lawn.
Gothic purists nowadays talk with de
vout horror of Strawberry Hill Gothic;
but however heretical now, it was ac
cepted as orthodox -then. Twenty years
after it was completed, we find a learned
Oxford professor, in an elaborate disser
tation on architecture, inviting the con
noisseur to " contemplate all that is
exquisite in the Palladian architecture"
at Chiswick, and " all that is fascinating
in the Gothic style at Strawberry Hill,"
and presently commending 'the latter as
" the happiest attempt of the kind " yet
produced.-)- But the contents were even more re
markable than the house. As he looks
through Walpole's ' Inventory of the Fur
niture, Pictures, Curiosities, etc.,' bright
ened as it is by his matchless manner of
illustrating the pedigree of this or the
other renowned article, adding a sly re
ference to the person .represented, or
story of some former owner, a. collector
of the present day may well be filled with
envy or admiration. The number seems
endless of articles that would now excite
no gentle rivalry at Christie's. Pictures
ascribed to Holbein and Mabuse and
Vansomer, to Vandyck and Kneller, and
Hogarth and Reynolds ; antique sculp
ture, bronzes, cameos, gems ; Oriental,
Sevres, Bristol, and Chelsea china ; Majo
lica and other mediaeval fayences, and
modern porcelain ; Limoges enamels,

* Walpole to George Montagu, May 11, 1769;
Letters, vol. v., p. 160.
r Dallaway, Anecdotes of the Arts in England,
1800, p. 148.

STRAWBERRY HILL.

583

STRAWBERRY HILL.

and miniatures by Petitot, Zinckc, and
other famous masters, unequalled in
number, beauty, and interest ; ivories,
mosaics, illuminated missals, rare books,
including vellum copies from the Straw
berry Hill press ; choice engravings ;
jewels, trinkets, relics, and a wide range
of those " curiosities " that owe more than
half their charm to the wonder how they
came to be thought worth preserving :
the fans with which Barbara Villiers or
the Countess of Hamilton flirted; Dr.
Dee's spirit speculum — •' the Devil's look
ing-glass, a stone ; " a locket with Mary
Queen of Scot's hair ; Sir Julius Caesar's
travelling library ; the copy of Homer
used by Pope when translating ; Sir
Robert Walpole's standish ; Charles the
Second's warming-pan ; the spurs worn
by William III. at the Battle of the
Boyne ; a toilette worked by Kitty Clive ;
and the original sketch of Sarah Malcolm
the murderess, made by Hogarth the night
before her execution, " when she had put
on red to look the better." Walpole was
not only an insatiable collector, but turned
his friends into collectors also. He haunted
sales, was always accessible to those who
had anything promising to dispose of, and
absorbed into his own whole collections
like that of Conyers Middleton.
Walpole drew an elaborate picture of
his house for Sir Horace Mann, in 1753 ;
but as he went on adding to it for 20
years longer, we must refer to his Descrip
tion and Inventory, enriched with ground-
plans and views, to see what it was like
when he had completed it. '• Entering
by the great north gate," he writes, " the
first object that presents itself is a small
oratory enclosed with iron rails ; in front
an altar, on which stands a saint in
bronze ; open niches and stone "basins for
holy water. ... On the right hand is a
small garden parted off by an open
screen taken from the tomb of Roger
Niger, Bp. of London, in old St. Paul's.
Passing on the left by a small cloister is
the entrance to the house, the narrow
front of which was designed by Richard
Bentley, only son of Dr. Bentley, the
learned master of Trinity College, Cam
bridge. Over the door are the three
shields of Walpole, Shorter, and Robsart."
Bat even before entering the house were
to be seen some of those objects which
made the place so remarkable. In this

little cloister, for example, among other
curiosities, on a pedestal stood the large
blue and white china vase in which Wal
pole's cat was drowned, a catastrophe
immortalized in Gray's ' Ode on the Death
of a Cat.'
Looked at from the garden, the house is
an irregular structure of three floors, bat
tlemented throughout, with crocketed
pinnacles at the angles, a large round
tower at the western end, and by it a
smaller turret crowned with a spire, and
boldly projecting bays in the several
fronts — a fantastic fabric, as its master
designated it, of lath aud plaster covered
with roughcast. Entering by a small
hall, rendered gloomy by painted win
dows, you passed through a vestibule
to the Refectory, or Great Parlour, 'di
ft. by 20, and 12 high, " hung with paper
in imitation of stucco." Here were por
traits of Walpole's father, family, and
friends, a Conversation piece by Rey
nolds, Etruscan vases, China beakers,
Sevres bowls, a table of Sicilian jasper,
and so forth. In the Waiting Room was
the Interior of King's College, by Cana-
letti, busts of Dryden and Cibber — the
latter coloured from the life, a gift from
Cibber to the Clive, — and a choice collec
tion of oriental, continental, and Enghsh
porcelain. The China Room, which came next in
order, contained a far larger and more
varied " collection of porcelain, earthen
ware, glass, and enamel on copper, of
various ages and countries," all which
Walpole describes and much of it gossips
over after this fashion : " Two Saxon
tankards, one with Chinese figures, the
other with European. These tankards
are extremely remarkable. Sir Robert
Walpole drank ale ; the Duchess of Ken
dal, mistress of King George the First,
gave bim the former. A dozen or more
years afterwards, the Countess of Yar
mouth, mistress of King George the
Second, without having seen the other,
gave him the second ; and they match
exactly in form and size." Further it will
be enough here to say that many of the
examples were from celebrated cabinets,
of the rarest and choicest kinds, and such
as in these days are highly prized and
eagerly sought after. The Little Parlour
had quarterings in the window, a chimney-
piece •' taken from the tomb of Thomas

STRAWBERRY HILL.

584

STRAWBERRY HILL.

Ruthall, Bp. of Durham, in Westminster,"
and ebony chairs bought at Lady Conyer's
pale. In the Yellow Bed Chamber, or
Beauty Room, were ebony tables, bronzes,
China ware, and portraits of the Beauties
of the court of Charles IL, mostly copies,
the loss of which has been infinitely over
balanced by the worthier Beauties of our
own day with which its present owner
has furnished the gallery of Strawberry
Hill. The visitor now passed by the Stair
case, where he was shown a view of
Richmond Hill, by Henry Bunbury, a
present from himself, to the Principal
Floor, and entered the Breakfast Room,
in which, besides such things as an inlaid
writing-case by Langlois, flower pots,
Cupids and vases of Sevres china, terra
cottas and marbles, were several frames
of miniatures by Petitot, Zincke, and
other masters of the art, many of them
of personages of historical renown, a part
of the then unrivalled collection of minia
tures of which Strawberry Hill was the
shrine. The Green Closet contained some
curious old glass in the windows, many
objects of value or curiosity, bronzes,
wax models, dram-bottles of old Venetian
glass, from the collection of Mrs. Kennon,
the virtuosa midwife, and the like, about
the room ; and on the walls, Hogarth's
portrait of Sarah Malcolm, and a large
number of views and portraits, mostly
drawings, not of much artistic value,
perhaps, but interesting for the persons
or places represented, and over which
Walpole knew how to gossip agreeably.
The Blue Bed Chamber and tha Red Bed
Chamber contained more China ware,
more choice furniture and bijouterie, and
a great many portraits ; but we turn to
the Staircase, " adorned with antelopes
(the Walpole supporters) bearing shields ;
lean windows fattened with rich saints in
painted glass . . . and niches full of
trophies of old coats of mail, Indian
shields made of rhinoceros' hides ; broad
swords, quivers, long-bows, arrows, and
spears " — and, chief of all, the splendid
armour of Francis I., his ebony lance and
inlaid sword, which Walpole believed was
the work of Benvenuto Cellini. This
brings us to an open vestibule of three
arches, the Armoury, in which is the chief
collection of arms and armour.
Beyond this is the Library, an oblong

room, 28 ft. by 17 ft. 6 in., very elaborately
fitted arid decorated, and which for its
contents must have been one of the most
interesting rooms in the building. The
books, some 15,000 volumes, chiefly his
torical and antiquarian, were ranged
within Gothic arche,s, " taken from a side
door-case to Dugdale's St. Paul's." The
chimneypiece was from a tomb at West
minster; the stone-work from one at
Canterbury ; the ceiling painted by Cler
mont from a design by Walpole himself ;
the windows were filled with allegorical
figures in painted glass. On the walls
were portraits and landscapes ; about the
room were various articles of taste and
curiosity — one of the most conspicuous
being a clock of silver-gilt richly chased,
surmounted by a lion holding the arms of
England, a present from Henry VIII. to
Anne Boleyn ; given by Lady Elizabeth
Germaine to Walpole, and now the pro
perty of the Queen. The main interest,
however, was in the books, many of which
were choice editions- or .of great rarity; in
the volumes and portfolios of prints and
drawings, and in the " 25 most precious
coins and medals in rosewood ease," all
rare and some unique.
Walpole's and the Plaid Bed Chamber,
with their portraits and bric-a-brac, may
be passed over. The Star Chamber claims
a passing glance, with its great painted
window, quaint furniture, and point-lace-
cushions, cabinets of Greek and Roman,
and of English and foreign coins and
medals, and Torrigiano's own model in
stone for the bust of Henry VII. for that
king's tomb at Westminster. In the
Holbein Chamber were the historic por
traits traced by Vertue from Holbein's
originals at Buckingham House; many
others copied from the same master by
inferior hands, and a few drawings and
paintings ascribed to Holbein himself.
Among the curiosities in the room was
Wolsey's red hat, which at the sale was
secured by Edmund Kean, the actor, for
20 guineas.
The Gallery, " 56 ft. long, 17 high, and
13 wide, without the 5 recesses," was a
room Walpole was very proud of. The
ceiling, in fan- tracery groining, was " taken
from one of the side aisles of Henry VII.'s
chapel." The great door was a copy of
the N. door of St. Albans Abbey. " The
side with recesses, finished with » gold

STRAWBERRY HILL.

585

STRAWBERRY HILL.

net-work over looking-glass," was imitated
from Abp. Bourchier's tomb at Canterbury.
The windows contained all the quarter-
in gs of the family. The carpet was made
at Moorfields — where carpets are made no
longer. The walls were lined with Wal-
pole'sbest historical pictures — a prominent
place being given to his favourite, the
1 Marriage of Henry VII.' — and portraits
of historical personages — that of Henry
Carey Lord Falkland, in white, being, as
he points out, the portrait that suggested
" the idea of the picture walking out of
its frame, in the Castle of Otranto." On
tables and pedestals were bronze and
marble busts, one, very choice, of the
Emperor Vespasian, in basalt, and, on an
antique sepulchral altar The Eagle " found
in the gardens of Boccapadugli, within
the precincts of Caracalla's Baths at
Rome," in 1742 ; " one of thefinest pieces
of Greek sculpture in the world : " it was
this eagle which suggested to Gray the
magnificent figure of the eagle with
" ruffled plumes and flagging wing " in his
' Ode on the Progress of Poesy.' In quaint
old coffers were old family costumes still
more quaint; and in a, closet with glass
doors was a collection, rich and rare, of
antique China, which belonged to Catha
rine Lady Walpole.
The Round Drawing Room, 22 ft. in
diameter, lit by a large bay-window
charged with the arms of Robert Dudley
Earl of Leicester, had an elaborate
chimneypiece " taken from the tomb of
Edward the Confessor, improved by Mr.
Adam, and beautifully executed in white
marble, inlaid with scagliola,by Richter,"
the exquisite workmanship of which may
still be admired in situ. The room was
hung with crimson Norwich damask, and
very richly furnished, but was perhaps
most remarkable as containing Vandyck's
fine portrait of Mrs. Lemon, and that still
finer of Lady Dorothy Percy, Countess of
Leicester, and her sister Lady Lucy, the
famous Countess of Carlisle — which Wal
pole gave 29 guineas for at the Penshurst
sale; at his own sale fetched £231, and
would now assuredly bear a high premium.
In the Tribune, " a square with a semi
circular recess in the middle of each side,"
was the bulk of Walpole's miniatures,
gems and smaller articles of worth. A
cabinet of rosewood decorated with ivory
statuettes and bas-reliefs, designed by Wal

pole, contained the choicest of his mini
atures and enamels, by Petitot, Liotard,
Zincke (the head of Cowley being Zincke's
" masterpiece and perhaps the finest piece
of enamel in the world "), Old Lens, Isaac
and Peter Oliver, Cooper, Hoskins, etc.
A case of antique rings ; gems ; snuff
boxes ; an exquisitely wrought silver bell,
made for a pope, by Cellini, for the cere
mony of exorcising caterpillars; antique
lamps ; silver-gilt chalices and other
church jewellery ; seals and trinkets of
various kinds ; apostle spoons and other
small silver articles ; bronzes ; china or
naments ; drawings and paintings ; King
Henry VIII.'s dagger in Turkish work ;
" one of the 7 mourning rings given at
the funeral of Charles I.," having the
king's head in miniature, behind it a
death's head, and the motto, " Prepared
be to follow me ; " and a " magnificent
missal, with miniatures by Raphael and
his scholars, set in gold enamelled, and
adorned with rubies and turquoises,"
which belonged originally to Queen Claude
the wife of Francis I. of France.
The Great North Bed Chamber must
have been a most uncomfortable room to
sleep in, for every spare inch of space
seems to have been filled with Sevres and
other choice porcelain, pottery, Wedgwood
ware, crystal tankards, Venetian glass,
enamels, bronzes, silver caskets wrought
by Cellini, snuff-boxes, agate ornaments,
and all sorts of curiosities from King
James I.'s gloves, and William III.'s
spurs, to Dr. Dee's spirit speculum, and
Van Tromp's tortoiseshell and silver to
bacco-pipe case ; " a most capital portrait
on board " of Henry VII.; Hogarth's
original sketch of the Beggar's Opera,
with portraits of Walker as Macheath,
and Lavinia Fenton (Duchess of Bolton)
as Polly. The Beauclerk Closet, built in
1776 " on purpose to receive seven incom
parable drawings of Lady Diana Beau
clerk, for Mr. Walpole's tragedy of The
Mysterious Mother," was nearly as full of
rarities; and there were other rooms,
closets, and staircases which contained
more than enough to have satisfied an
ordinary collector.
But the house was not all. In the
wood was a Chapel designed by Walpole,
Bentley, and Chute, from portions of
several cathedrals, the facade being copied
from a tomb at Salisbury, and containing

STRAWBERRY HILL.

586

STRAWBERRY HILL.

pictures, statues, shrines, and painted
glass. In the flower garden was a Cottage,
in which was a tea-room, hung with
prints, and filled with Chantilly, Sevres,
German, old Delft, and Nankin China ;
and the Little Library, in which, besides
printed books and MSS., were antique
marbles, bronzes, and paintings, Etruscan
and Staffordshire vases, and much Oriental
porcelain. Walpole was in his 30th year when he
took Strawberry Hill, and he spent fifty
summers in it, improving the house, adding
to his collections, and enjoying the lilacs
and nightingales in his grounds.* He
bequeathed Strawberry Hill to the Hon,
Mrs. Damer, his residuary legatee, for her
life. Mrs. Damer made Strawberry Hill
her residence, and did her best to maintain
its celebrity. She gave garden parties
which were eminently attractive ; and
theatrical performances at which, besides
a distinguished fashionable circle, Mrs.
Siddons and Mrs. Garriok were among the
auditors.' Mrs. Damer recited prologues
written for the occasion by Joanna Baillie,
and sometimes sustained a part in the
comedy. She was especially successful
as Lady Vapour in Miss Berry's comedy
of 'The Fashionable Friends.' Of her
ordinary occupations, Miss Berry writes
(Sept. 12, 1799) from Strawberry Hill
(where she was as much at home as in
Walpole's lifetime), " Mrs. Damer chips
away at her marble one half of the
morning, and trots about the grounds
the other half in all weathers, and is
much the better for this variety of exer
cise." Mrs. Damer continued at Strawberry
Hill from the death of Walpole in 1797
till 1811, when she was induced to resign
it to the Countess Dowager Waldegrave,
who held the reversion. At this time
everything was exactly as Walpole had
left it. But the house was now allowed
to get out of repair, and the collections
were neglected. Eventually, when in the
hands of the Earl of Waldegrave, the
whole of the contents were sold by auction
and dispersed — George Robins being the
auctioneer, and the sale occupying 24
* "I pass half the week at Strawberry, where
my two passions, lilacs and nightingales, are in
full bloom." Walpole to Geo. Montagu, May 5,
1761. The "two passions " of his later years at
Ltrawberry were the Miss Berrys.

days, April 25 to May 21, 1842— and the
house was shut up.
From its dismantled and semi-ruinous
condition it was, however, rescued some
years later by Frances Countess of Walde
grave, who restored the building, added to
it a new wing, refitted the interior, and,
having made it her summer residence,
has reinstated Strawberry Hill in at least
its primal splendour.
As it now stands Strawberry Hill is
a renewal of Horace Walpole's house, with
modern sumptuousness superadded. All
the old rooms are there, though the uses
of many have been changed. Walpole
constructed an endless number of little
rooms for the reception and display of his
multifarious collections. Many of these
have been converted into bed-chambers
and the like. But the state rooms are
state rooms still, and others on a larger
scale have been added. Walpole's Gothic
ornaments — the chimneypieces on which
he spent so much trouble and cost, the
fretted ceilings, arches, screens, the re
cesses copied from cathedral chapels and
altar tombs — are for the most part intact,
though somewhat brightened with gold
and colour ; and a goodly number of the
old pictures and ornaments have been
recovered. His favourite ' Henry VII.,
his Queen and Family,' for example,
Reynolds's masterwork, the Three Ladies
Waldegrave, Ramsay's Laura, and Char
lotte Walpole, and several of the older
Walpole family portraits, views of Straw
berry, and many others of more or less
value and interest, may again be seen
in the old rooms, if not exactly in their
old places. No attempt has however been
made to replace Walpole's " Gothic fittings
and furniture." The upholstery is all in
the richest modern taste.
The Refectory is now the Study, and
lined with a large collection of books, in
capital oak presses, which cover every
available inch of wall-space. There are
some pictures, but the room is a working
room, with a pleasant outlook over the
garden and river. The Staircase has been
apparently rendered somewhat more com
modious, lined with pictures in place of
weapons, and, instead of the armour of
Francis I., has, as its crowning ornament,
a graceful marble statue (about half life-
size) of Frances Countess of Waldegrave,
by Noble.

STRAWBERRY HILL.

587

STRAWBERRY HILL.

Walpole's " Breakfast Room, one pair
of stairs," is now Lady Waldegrave's
Morn ing Room-, and contains views in the
Holy Land, water-colours, by Lear, and
other modern and some old pictures, and
various articles of taste, and commands
charming prospects from the 3 windows
of the great bay.
The Library is most like what it was
originally. As of old, the books are ar
ranged in presses within the Gothic arches
of pierced work, and look as though they
might be of Walpole's selection. Above
are portraits, some we believe the same
as hung there in Walpole's day. The
ceiling, '' painted by Clermont, from Mr.
Walpole's design drawn out by Mr.
Bentley," retains all the shields, symbols,
and devices which he has described with
so much parental fondness.
The Great North Bed Chamber is now
a Sitting Room, for which, being light,
well proportioned, having a cheerful out
look, and handsomely furnished, it is far
better adapted than for a bed-chamber.
Its chief ornaments are ^portraits, among
which are Walpole's favourite niece, the
Duchess of Gloucester, by Reynolds, and
hardly less favourite friend, Lady Di.
Beauclerk, by Powell.
The Gallery is still, as it was when
Walpole lived, the most remarkable room
in the house, though the new drawing-
room far exceeds it in size. The fan-
tracery of the ceiling, and the Gothic
recesses, -are as then the notable features ;
hut the recesses in their fret- work of white
and gold, and the portraits that are cun
ningly fitted into them, -are far more
effective than they could have been when
lined with looking-glass. The furniture
is modern ; the ornaments are modern ;
in place of the " carpet made at Moor-
fields," the floor is laid with parquetry.
But the great change is in the decora
tions. It is in this room that are hung the
bevy of fair ladies, sometimes named the
Waldegrave Beauties, and forming, how
ever entitled, an unrivalled collection of
contemporary portraits of noble ladies.
They are all by James Sant, R.A., and
include the Duchess of Sutherland, the
Marchioness of Stafford, the Duchess of
Westminster, the Marchioness of North
ampton, the Marchioness of Clanricarde,
the Countess of Clarendon, the Countess of
Shaftesbury, the Countess Spencer, Lady

Selina Harcourt, the Baroness Alphonse
de Rothschild, the Hon. Mrs. Stonor,
Lady Augusta Sturt, and several more.
Frances Countess of Waldegrave looks
out of a bower of roses and hawthorns
from over the fireplace in the centre of
the right-hand wall. At the royal end of
the room, in a sumptuous frame, sits
Alexandra Princess of Wales, with the
Prince of Wales standing behind and
leaning slightly over her. Close by are
the Due and. Duchesse d'Aumale, and M.
Van der Weyer, also by Sant. Finally, to
balance so much beauty and bright colour,
there are portraits in more sombre style,
by Dickinson, of Earl Russell, Earl Grey,
Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Palmerston, Bp.
Wilberforce, Mr. Gladstone, Lord Strat
ford de Redcliffe, and other contempo
rary statesmen and diplomatists.
The New or West Wing, added by the
Countess of Waldegrave about 1860-62,
agrees in general style with the rest of
the building, but is more solidly con
structed, and the rooms are larger and
loftier. The Large Dining Room is a
noble room, lit by 3 great windows by
day, by sun-burners in the evening. The
ceiling, as in all the new rooms, is of
stucco-work, corresponding to those of
Walpole's designing, and the great chim-
neypiece is of stone elaborately carved.
Among the portraits on the walls are
King James IL, and James, 2nd Earl of
Waldegrave, by Reynolds, and very fine.
The Great Drawing Room is a very
large and splendid apartment. Its
grand ornament is Reynolds's masterly
group of the three Ladies Waldegrave,
daughters of James, 2nd Earl, which
excited such general admiration at
the Second Exhibition of National
Portraits, 1867. It was painted for
Horace Walpole, and Reynolds was long
in finishing it. When he got it home,
Walpole wrote to Sir Horace Mann that
it was -'a charming picture," but he
grumbled somewhat over it to Pinkerton.
" Sir Joshua," he said, " gets avaricious in
his old age. My picture of the young
Ladies Waldegrave is doubtless very fine
and graceful, but it cost me 800 guineas."*
Under this picture is a gorgeous mediaeval
coffer, carved and gilt, with a long
painting in the front panel that contrasts
* Walpoliana, p. 159.

STRAWBERRY HILL.

588

STREATHAM.

curiously in its minute finish with the
breadth and richness of the masterpiece
above. On one side of this is Magni's
charming marble statue of the Reading
Girl, on the other a seated Bacchante
with Tambourine. Among the portraits
are Maria Walpole, wife of the 2nd Earl
of Waldegrave, by Reynolds — a charming
picture of a mother and child, exquisite
in feeling, colour, and execution ; Martha
and Theresa Blount, Gay's
" Fair-haired Martha
And Theresa Brown ; "
Sir Robert Walpole, 1st Earl of Orford ;
Horace Walpole and Mrs. Damer ; Lady
Mary Faulkner, by Liotard ; Laura and
Charlotte Walpole, daughters of Sir
Edward Walpole, by Ramsay.
The end of the Billiard Room is occu
pied by a composition by Dickinson of the
Gladstone Ministry, with life-sized por
traits of Gladstone seated on the rt.,
Lowe and Bright on the 1. ; beyond them
the Duke of Argyll, and standing behind
him Lord Carlingford, the lord of Straw
berry Hill, for whom the picture was
painted. The other members of the
Cabinet are in their several places, and all,
as far as we recognized them, are faithful
portraits. In this room are also at present
(for most of them must be taken subject
to removal elsewhere), portraits of
Frances Countess of Waldegrave, by
Dubufe ; Lord Carlingford, by Tissot;
Sir Robert Walpole, Earl of Orford, £-
length, standing, with coronet by side;
James IL, by Kneller ; George I., etc.
In an adjoining reception room are
portraits of Henry, 1st Lord Waldegrave,
and of his wife Henrietta Churchill, both
by Kneller, and favourable examples of
his pencil. James, 2nd Lord and 1st
Earl of Waldegrave, and companion pic
ture of his wife, Mary Webbe. Catherine
Shorter, wife of Sir Robert Walpole.
Princess Amelia, by Reynolds. On the
Staircase, a full-length of John Braham, in
theatrical costume, by Healy ; and one of
John James, 6th Earl of Waldegrave.
The grounds and gardens are as beau
tiful and attractive as of old, the trees as
verdant, the rosary as bright, the lawns
as green ; and in their season, Walpole's
" two passions, lilacs and nightingales,"
in as " full bloom " and abundance as
ever. And Strawberry's ancient fame for

garden parties is amply maintained. The
lawns and terraces are brightened now
with as gay and brilliant assemblies as
the bravest and brightest of the olden
time. By way of illustration we may
mention one in the summer of 1875. In
a June afternoon the noble host and
hostess received in their garden the Prince
and Princess of Wales ; the Austrian,
Italian, Spanish, American, Danish, Swe
dish, Brazilian, and Persian ministers;
princes and princesses, archbishops, dukes
and duchesses — in short, as Walpole
would say, there were 800 there, and all
of high social or personal distinction.
Walpole's "festino " pales beside the glory
of such a gathering.
STEEATHAM, Surrey (Dom.
Estreham), a vill. of mansions, villas, and
genteel residences, extends for 1\ m. along
the Brighton road from Brixton Hill
towards Croydon, and rt. and 1. to Tooting
and Norwood, 6 m. from Westminster
Bridge. There are 4 stats, on the L. C.
and D. Rly., and the L. and S.-W. Rly.,
¦ — at Streatham vill., Streatham Hill,
Streatham Common, and Streatham Road.
Pop. 12,148, of whom however only 2187
were in the original or mother parish.
The name is probably derived from its
position on the anc. Stane Street. At the
Dom. Survey Streatham was divided into
several manors. The chief, Totinges, which
included the hamlet of Tooting, was held
by the Abbot of St. Mary de Bee, and
hence came to be known as Tooting-
Bee. Later it seems to have been assigned
to the prior of Okebourn, Wilts, a cell of
Bee Abbey ; and reverted to the Crown
with the estates of the other alien priories
in the reign of Henry V., who granted the
manor to his brother, John Plantagenet.
On his death in 1435, a lease of it was
granted by Henry VI. to John Arderne,
and in 1441 the King assigned the manor
to his newly founded college of Eton. It
was, however, resumed by Edward IV.,
who conveyed it for his life to Lawrence,
Bp. of Durham. On its reversion to the
Crown, it was granted to the Guild of the
Church of St. Mary AllhaUows, Barking,
with whom it remained till the suppression
of these institutions. In 1553 it was sold
to John Dudley, Earl of Warwick ; after
wards passed to the Pakenhams, and was
purchased in 1600 by Sir Giles Howland.

STREATHAM.

589

iSTREATHAM.

Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of John
Howland, conveyed the property, by
marriage in 1695, to Wriothesley, Marquis
of Tavistock, afterwards 3rd Duke of
Bedford, and Baron Howland, of Streat
ham. The marriage was performed by
Bp. Burnet, at Streatham House, Lord
Wriothesley being only 15 years old.
Francis, the 5th Duke, conveyed it to his
brother, Lord William Russell, who was
murdered by his Swiss valet. Lord WilUam
made the house his residence, but about
the close of the 18th cent, sold it to Lord
Deerhurst, afterwards 7th Earl Coventry,
who pulled down the old house and con
verted some of the offices into a dwelling.
The Manor House was a large and stately
red-brick Elizabethan mansion, which had
its tradition of having been visited by
the great queen, but of this there is no
authentic record. After Lady Coventry's
death, the house was bought by Mr. J.
Grey, and is now the residence of Mrs.
Haigh. The manor has passed through
many hands and been variously divided.
Tooting-Bec Common, of 150 acres, has
suffered from encroachments, but the
portion left is now secured to public use.
The manor of Leigham, or Leiyliam's
Court, belonged to Bermondsey Abbey till
the Suppression, when it was given by
Henry VIII. to Henry Dowes, clerk. It
was several times transferred, and at
length passed by marriage, in 1752, to
George, 5th Duke of St. Albans, who in
1785 sold a portion, and in 1789 the re
mainder, of the manor to Lord Thurlow.
On a portion of the manor the Lord
Chancellor built himself a residence at
Knight's Hill, which however he never
occupied, and which has long been
pulled down, and, with the grounds, built
over. (See Norwood.) Balham (anc.
Balgham), another manor in Streatham
par., though locally an appendage to
Clapham, belonged to the Abbey of
Bee, passed to that of Bermondsey,
and reverting to the Crown at the Sup
pression, was granted by Henry VIII. to
John Symondes in 1542, and to Edward
Williams by Queen Elizabeth. It after
wards passed to various persons, and since
1701 has belonged to the Du Cane family.
It is now covered with genteel residences.
Streatham is a large rambling district,
occupying for the most part high ground,
with a good deal of open heath — Streat

ham Common of 66 acres, and Tooting-Bec
of 150 acres— and affording from many
parts wide and pleasant prospects, and has
from an early date been a favourite place
of abode for opulent citizens. It abounds
consequently in mansions encompassed by
well-wooded grounds, comfortable-look
ing old brick houses, and more fanciful
modern villas and genteel cottages ; has
several churches, schools, and institutions,
numerous good inns, and all the usual
accompaniments of such a locality. In
the 17th and far into the 18th century, it
was celebrated for a mineral spring, dis
covered in 1660, the water of which was
described in contemporary advertisements
as " the best for purging in England," *
whilst " good entertainment " was pro
vided " for Gentlemen and Ladies at the
Wells House." As late as 1810 the water
was "sent in considerable quantities to
some of the hospitals in London." The
well still exists, but its fame has departed.
At the present time Streatham receives
a considerable influx of undesirable
visitors from the races which are held
here four or five times a year.
Now Streatham perhaps derives most
celebrity from Samuel Johnson's con
nexion with it. Streatham Place, also
known as Thrale Place, and later as
Streatham Park, was the residence of
Henry Thrale, the opulent brewer of
Southwark, when Johnson was introduced
to him by his friend Murphy (1765), and
during Thrale's life Streatham Place was
to Johnson a second home. He had his
own room ; his established seat at the table
and the fireside ; the library was his sanc
tum, and the books in it were of his selec
tion ; his favourite strolling-place in the
grounds was known as Dr. Johnson's
Walk, and his resting-place there as Dr.
Johnson's Summer-house. Johnson's con
versation, Thrale's hospitality, and his
wife's cleverness, management, and lively
manners, attracted to Streatham Place the
most distinguished members of the social
and intellectual life of the time. Johnson
left Streatham after Thrale's death with a
prayer that he might, with humble and
sincere thankfulness, remember the com
forts and conveniences which he had en
joyed at this place ; and that he might
resign them with holy submission.-)- His
« Post Boy, May 23, 1717.
t Boswell, Life of Johnson, vol. viii., p. 144.

STREATHAM.

590

STREATHAM.

farewell to the kitchen and the church
was said in Latin.
Streatham Place was, in Thrale's time,
" a large white house " of three floors,
having a slightly projecting centre and
wings, with on the rt. a semicircular
termination. It stood in well-timbered
park-like grounds of about 100 acres.
When Mrs. Thrale became Mrs. Piozzi the
house continued to be her residence, but
Piozzi made many alterations in house
and grounds. Sir Joshua Reynolds, a.
frequent and favourite guest, was com
missioned by Thrale to paint the portraits
of the more remarkable of his visitors, and
the Streatham Gallery, as it was called,
became famous. The portraits, 24 in num
ber, included Johnson, Goldsmith, Burke,
Reynolds, Chambers, Garrick, Murphy,
Baretti, Burney, Conversation Sharp,
Lord Lyttelton, the Duke of Bedford, Mr.
and Mrs. Thrale, etc. The portraits —
some of them the best likenesses extant of
the persons represented — were dispersed
by auction in May 1816. The house was
pulled down and the materials sold by
auction in May 1863. Streatham Park was
on the S. side of the lower common, be
tween Streatham and Tooting. Nothing
remains of the Streatham Place of Thrale
and Johnson.
The present Leigham Court is the resi
dence of J. Tredwell, Esq. Park Hill
House (Augustus Smith, Esq.), Streatham
Common, is a handsome modern mansion
designed by J. B. Papworth, standing
within fine grounds of over 60 acres :
whilst the residence of the late Wm.
Leaf, Esq., it contained a noted collection
of modern paintings. On Streatham
Common are also Hill House (J. N.
Bullen, Esq.) ; Spencer House (Sir King-
mill Grove Key, Bart.) ; and other man
sions. Streatham Church (St. Leonard), near
the centre of the vill., was built
in 1831 on the site of an old 14th cent.
ch., the tower and shingled spire of
which was retained. The spire was struck
by lightning during a storm on Sunday
morning, January 3, 1841. The tower was
restored and heightened and a new octago
nal brick spire erected. The ch. has since
been enlarged, and was in 1866 remodelled,
but cannot be greatly praised. In it are
some monts. removed from the old ch. A
mutilated effigy of an unknown knight in

armour under a canopy is popularly called
John of Gaunt's Tomb. Of more interest
are the marble tablets with long Latin
inscriptions by Johnson to Henry Thrale,
d. 1781 ; and Mrs. Salusbury, d. 1773, the
mother of Mrs. Thrale ; also a relief in
marble by Flaxman, commemorative of
Mrs. H. M. Hoare, d. 1824, the third
daughter of Mr. Thrale. In the ch.-yard
is the conspicuous cenotaph, with marble
cross, of Alexander Edw. Murray, 6th
Earl of Dunmore, d. 1845. The rectory,
one of the best in Surrey, was held by
Dr. Benj. Hoadly, along with the bishop
ric of Bangor, 1715, Hereford, 1721, till
his promotion to Salisbury in 1723.
Herbert Hill, d. 1828, the affectionate
uncle of Robert Southey ; and Hemy
Blunt, d. 1843, author of much-esteemed
1 Sermons ' were rectors.
Christchurch, towards Brixton Hill,
erected in 1841 from the designs of Mr. J.
W. Wild, is a spacious and rather striking
Lombardic fabric, with a lofty campanile
on the S.W. Emmanuel Church, Streat
ham Common, is an E.E. building, erected
in 1854. St. Stephen's, Grove Road, is a
Gothic ch., erected in 1867. St. Peter's,
Leigham Court Road, is an early Dec. ch.
of coloured bricks and stone, erected in
1870 from the design of Mr. R. W. Drew.
Thrale's Almshouses, Streatham Road,
were built and endowed in 1832 by the
daughters of Mr. Thrale, for the mainte
nance of 4 poor widows.
The Royal Asylum of St. Awn's Society,
at the Brixton end of Streatham Hill, was
founded in 1709 by inhabitants of the
Ward of Aldersgate- Within, London, for
the education and maintenance of children
of necessitous parents of any nation who
had once been in prosperouscircumstances.
The funds of the institution having steadily
increased, it was decided to remove the
school to a healthier locality, and Streat
ham Hill was chosen. The present build
ing was erected in 1829, and the Royal
Albert Wing added in 1865. It is a spa
cious structure of three storeys, with a
central Ionic portico and pediment ; is
well arranged and well fitted, and has
extensive grounds. It has now on the
establishment about 200 boys and 140 girls,
who are admitted between the ages of 7
and 11, and receive an excellent general
education. The Magdalen Hospital, founded by

SUNBURY.

591

SUNBURY.

Jonas Hanway in St. George's Fields,
1758, was removed to a healthier site and
more commodious building, erected for the
purpose at Streatham, in 1869.
SUDBURY, Middx. (see Harrow-
ON-THB-HlLL). SULLONIACJ3, Middx. (see Edg
ware). SUNBURY, Middx. (Dom. Sune-
berie), a vill. on the left bank of the
Thames, 15 m. from London and 14 m.
above Hampton. The Sudbury Stat, of the
L. and S.-W. Rly. (Thames Valley line) is
about 1 m. N. of the ch. Pop. 3368.
Inns : llower Pot, much resorted to by
anglers and boating parties ; Magpie,
Castle, also anglers' inns : all three are in
Thames Street, by the river-side.
The village lies along a pleasant reach
of the Thames, and stretches back to
Kenton or Kempton Park on the E., and
for | m. towards the rly. stat. on the W.
By the river are several fine old red-brick
houses, standing within well-wooded
grounds. The river, with the wiers, eyots,
swans, and skiffs, has a bright and cheerful
aspect, and is in especial favour with boat
ing men and anglers. Here and on the
opposite shore are the pumping works and
filtering beds of two or three of the London
Waterworks Companies. Sunbury Deep,
as defined and maintained by the Thames
Conservancy, extends for 683 yards from
the weir, eastward to the E. end pile of
the breakwater. Thereis excellent jack and
barbel fishing, and occasionally trout of
good size are taken. At Sunbury are the
rearing-ponds of the Thames Angling
Preservation Society.
Sunbury Manor was given by the Con
fessor to Westminster Abbey, but was
ceded in 1222 to the Bp. of London.
Three centuries later it was surrendered
to the Crown. Leases were granted by
Elizabeth, and the manor itserf was con
veyed by James I. to Robert Stratford in
1603, In 1676 it was the property of
Francis Phelips, by whose executors it was
conveyed to his son-in-law, Sir John Tyr-
whit, Bart., in 1693. It was sold in 1702
to John Crosse, and afterwards passed
in succession to the St. Eloys, Hudsons,
Boehms, and Mitchisons. The Maxtor

House, a noble red-brick mansion, is now
the seat of Anthony Wm. Mitchison, Esq.
The manor of Chenetone (afterwards
Col or Cold Kenynyton, Cold Kenton, now
Kempton,) was held under the Conqueror
by Robert Earl of Cornwall, and on the
rebellion of his son was seized, with the
rest of the Earl's estates, by Henry I. in
1 104. The manor-house was made a royal
residence ; Edward II. dates a charter
from it in 1309, and it is described in
a survey made for Edward III. in 1331.
Leases of the manor were granted on
several occasions. In 1558 the manors
of Col Kenyngton and Hanworth were
demised to Anne Duchess of Somerset,
widow of the Protector, for her life, and
the two manors were united in succeed
ing grants, till in 1631 Kenyngton or
Kempton was granted in fee to Sir Robert "
Killigrew. It has since been often trans
ferred, and is now owned by Thomas
Barnet, Esq. Kempton Park lies about J
m. N.E. of the vill. The house is a good
modern mansion. Of the palace no trace
whatever exists, though towards the close
of the last cent, the " traces of an ancient
building " existed which were supposed
" to have been the remains of a religious
house."* The park, of about 300 acres,
contains much fine timber, and is skirted
by the little stream which falls into the
Thames between Sunbury and Hampton.
Charlton (anc. Cerdentone, Cherdyng-
ton) manor was given at an early period
to Merton Abbey, and retained by it till
the Suppression, 1538. It was granted to
Sir John Mason in 1550, and has since
been many times alienated. The hamlet
of Charlton, a little out-of-the-way place,
lies some distance N. of the Thames, about
2 m. N.W. of Sunbury, and much nearer
Littleton. The other manor, Upper Halliford (anc.
Haleghford), is noticed under Halli
ford. Sunbury Church (of the Virgin Mary),
familiar from its position by the river
side to every one who has rowed along
the Thames, was erected on the site of
an older ch. in 1752, by Mr. Wright, clerk
of the works at Hampton Court. It was
a large ugly brick building ; but has
within the last few years been much
altered. New windows have been in-
* Lysons, vol. iii., p. 271.

SUNDRIDGE.

592

SUNDRIDGE.

serted, and a semicircular chancel and
very elaborate W. porch, of red and black
bricks, with stone arcades at the sides and
decorative carvings, added. The interior
has been still more thoroughly trans
formed. Instead of a plain brick barn,
it is now a glittering Byzantine temple.
The tower, with its odd cupola, and the
heavy flag-staff projecting diagonally
from theparapet,remains unchanged. The
tower has a good peal of 6 bells. The
ch.-yard is crowded with tombs, but
neither here nor inside is there any me
morial of interest. On the river side of
the ch. is a large yew-tree.
A rather pretty little E.E. Roman
Catholic ch., of Kentish rag and Bath-
stone, designed by Mr. Chas. Buckler,
was consecrated by Abp. (now Cardinal)
Manning, May 23, 1869, the Due de
Nemours assisting at the ceremony.
SUNDRIDGE, Kent (Dom. Son-
dresse), a short mile E. of Brasted, on
the road to Sevenoaks, from which town
it is about 3 m. W. Pop. 1593, of whom
635 were in the eccl. dist. of Ide Hill,
and 206 in the Sevenoaks Union Work
house, which stands in this par. Inn,
Wliite Horse, by the ch., a good house.
Lying somewhat irregularly about the
meeting of the ways, where the Westerham
and Sevenoaks road is crossed by the
byroad to Knockholt, in a varied and
attractive country, and surrounded by
richly-wooded parks, hills, corn-fields,
hop-gardens, and broad green meadows,
a pretty stream flowing through it, and
in itself clean and well-kept, yet wearing
an air of rustic antiquity, Sundridge is a
very good example of the typical Kentish
village. Its mainstay is husbandry, and
there are well-tilled fields, capital farm
houses both old and new, good farm build
ings, and stores of shapely ricks all around.
On the river are also paper mills, which
employ a great many hands.
" Sundrich," writes PhiUpott, " was the
possession (as high as any light, collected
from antiquity, can waft us to a discovery)
of an ancient family called in Latin re
cords de Insula and in English Isley."*
The Isleys kept the manor down to
the reign of Mary, when Sir Henry Isley,
* Philipott, Villare Cuiitianuni, p. 332.

Sheriff of Kent, "being unhappily en
tangled" in the disastrous insurrection of
Sir Thomas Wyatt, was attainted of high
treason and executed at Sevenoaks, and
his estates forfeited to the Crown. Eliza
beth restored the manor to Sir Henry's
son, John Isley ; but he, not long after,
disposed of it to one Brooker, who sold
it to a Hide, and its subsequent alienations
have been numerous. It now belongs to
Earl Amherst. The old manor house,
which stood S. of the ch. , has long dis
appeared. Brook Place was another manor held
by the Isleys till the reign of Edward IV.
Hethenden, or Henden, belonged to the
Clares, Earls of Gloucester, and passing <
by marriage to the Staffords, was by the
attainder of Edward Stafford Duke of
Buckingham, in 1521, forfeited to the
Crown, andin 1 543 granted by Henry VIII.
to Sir John Gresham. Its subsequent
history is without interest. The manors
are now united.
Combe Bank, the chief seat now in
Sundridge, about § m. N. of the ch., " did
formerly relate to the Isleys," but having
passed to the Ash family, was, about the
middle of the 18th cent., purchased by
Col. John Campbell, afterwards Duke of
Argyll, and created, 1776, Baron Sun
dridge — the title by which the Duke of
Argyll sits in the House of Lords. The
Duke rebuilt Combe Bank, and made it
a very charming, but, as would seem, not
very convenient, place. When the resi
dence of Lord Frederick Campbell, a
portion of the house was destroyed by
fire, June 25, 1807, and Lady Frederick
Campbell burnt to death. Lady Campbell's
first husband, from whom she was divorced
on account of his violence, was the Earl
Ferrers, who was hanged at Tyburn, May
5, 1761, for the murder of his steward.
The house was less injured by the fire
than is usually stated. Miss Berry, who
stayed at Combe Bank on a short visit
within three months of the fire (Sept. 9
and 10, 1807), says that Lady Campbell,
"having been thus actually burnt to
ashes in a house of which one single room
alone was destroyed . . . can only be
accounted for by her having fallen into
a fit with her head in the candle." Only
" about three or four feet of the floor just
near the sitting-room door" were actually
burnt, but the whole room " is perfectly

SUNDRIDCtE.

593

SUTTON.

black and scorched and shrivelled up
with the effects of the fire." Of the house
itself Miss Berry writes, " I think it unites
every possible discomfort." It has been
often and greatly altered since, and is
now probably sufficiently commodious. It
is a spacious classical Italian villa, having
a centre with projecting wings and towers,
and stands in a park remarkable for
magnificent trees, lake, and distant pros
pects. By the terrace is a cedar of
gigantic size. From the Campbells, Combe
Bank passed to W. Manning, Esq., M.P.
(father of Cardinal Manning), Lord Tem-
plemore, and Rev. A. P. Clayton. It is
now the property and residence of Wm.
Spottiswoode, Esq., F.R.S. Towards the
middle of the 17th cent., "many Roman
urns of an antique shape and figure"
were dug up near Combe Bank.
Other seats are Woodside (R. R. Drabble,
Esq.), a finely situated modern Gothic
mansion ; Shootfield (S. Copestake, Esq.),
and The Ferns (T. R. Wheeler, Esq.)
In the main street and in the street by
the ch. are some half-timber and a few
old tile-fronted cottages ; and in the lane
leading to the ch. is a curious pargetted
gable dwelling — the plasterwork some
what obscured by yellow-wash, but still
worth noting.
The Church (dedication unknown)
stands apart, about 1 J m. S. of the Brasted
road, in a singularly beautiful ch.-yard,
which you enter by a lich-gate, beyond
which are some fine yews. The two grand
old ash-trees at the E. end of the ch.-yard
were planted by Bp. Porteus, about a
century ago. The larger (which measures
16 ft. 3 in. at 4 ft. from the ground) is
dead ; the other (12 ft. 9 in. in girth) is
still vigorous. Porteus held the living
for awhile, and liked the place so well
that when he became bishop he built
himself a country house here ; and, though
he died at Fulham, was by his own desire
buried in Sundridge ch.-yard, where is
his tomb.
The ch. comprises nave with aisles ;
chancel with short aisles ; S. porch, and
massive W. tower, with tall octagonal
shingled spire, and square stair-turret
reaching to the belfry, in which is a peal
of 5 bells. The body of the ch. is E.E.,
hut all the windows are Perp., except
those of the clerestorey, which are quatre-
f oils. Church and tower are partly covered

with ivy. The interior has been tho
roughly restored, and fitted with open
seats of carved oak. Some of the windows
have painted glass. In S. wall of chancel
is a double piscina. Monts. — Perp. altar
tomb, with stone effigies of civilian and
wife, probably of John Isley, justice of
the peace and sheriff of Kent, 14 Edward
IV., d. 1484, "as appears by an insc.
affixed to his mont., yet extant (notwith
standing the late general shipwreck of
the remains of antiquity) in Sundrich
church." * Tablets to several of the Camp
bells, some with busts by the Hon. Mrs.
Damer, that which she herself most valued
being of her mother, Carohne Campbell,
only daughter of John, 4th Duke of Argyll,
and wife of Horace Walpole's friend,
Field-Marshal Conway. Mrs. Damer, d.
May 1828, lies by her mother : by her
express desire her working apron, chisels,
hammers, and other sculptor's and model
ling tools, were deposited in her coffin.
Tomb of Henry Mompesson, murdered
by robbers in 1723. Brasses. — Roger Isley,
d. 1429 ; another, name lost, but having
fragments of the Isley arms, with effi
gies of civilian and wife, 6 sons and 3
daughters. SURBITON, Surrey (see Kings-
ton-upon- Thames).
SUTTON, Surrey (Dom. Sudtone=
South Town), on the old road to Reigate,
where it is crossed by the road to Epsom,
11 m. from Westminster Bridge and 3 m.
S. of Mitcham ; a junction stat. on the
Croydon and Epsom, South London, and
Epsom Downs lines of the L., B., and S. C.
Rly., 15 m. from London Bridge. Pop.
6558, of whom 1790 are in the eccl. dist.
of Benhilton, and 1297 in the South
Metropolitan District Schools. Inns : the
Cock; Greyhound; Angel; Station Hotel.
Sutton lies on the edge of the Downs ;
Sutton Downs running into Banstead
Downs on the one hand and Epsom
Downs on the other, and being like them
famed for the mutton they produce. The
Cock at Sutton is on the Epsom Derby
Day the last place of baiting on the way
to the Course, and the first on the way
home. The medley of carriages on a fine
* Philipott. Vill. Cant., fol. 1659, p. 331.
38

SUTTON.

594

SUTTON-AT-HONE.

day, with what the landlord calls the
amount of business done, is a sight worth
witnessing. The manor was the property of Chertsey
Abbey at the Conquest, and so remained
till surrendered to Henry VIIL, who in
1538 gave it to Sir Nicholas Carew, of
Beddington. On his attainder the follow
ing year, it reverted to the Crown ; but
was restored by Queen Mary,* in 1554, to
Francis Carew, only son of Sir Nicholas.
On his death, Sutton passed to Sir Robert
Darcy ; and having become vested in the
Crown, was granted by Charles II. in
1 663 to Jerome Weston, Earl of Portland.
In 1669 it was purchased by Sir Richard
Mason (father of the notorious Countess
of Macclesfield, whom Richard Savage
claimed as his mother) ; passed by mar
riage to the Brownlowes ; was sold in
1716 to Capt. Henry Cliffe ; was con
veyed by marriage to Thomas Hatch of
Windsor ; and in 1865 was bought by
Philip Lovett, Esq., the present lord of
the manor.
The old Church (St. Nicholas) of no
architectural value, was pulled down in
1863, and a larger one erected on the site,
from the designs of Mr. Edwin Nash. It
is of flint and stone ; early Dec. in style ;
and comprises nave, aisles, and chancel,
with red tiled roofs of high pitch ; large
S. porch, and tall buttressed tower and
shingled spire on the W. In the ch. is a
good mural mont. to William Earl Talbot,
d. 1782, son of Lord ChanceUor Talbot,
who lies under a large tomb in the ch.-
yard. Other monts. are to Dame Dorothy
Brownlowe, d. 1700, wife of Sir Wm.
Brownlowe of Bolton, and daughter and
coheiress of Sir Richard Mason ; and to
Isaac Littlebury, d. 1710, translator of
Herodotus, and son of " Mr. Thomas Little-
bury, the famous bookseller in Little
Britain." The huge tomb W. of the ch.
marks the family vault of James Gibson,
merchant, d. 1777, which has to be opened
and a sermon preached every 12th of
August as a condition of the payment of
certain charitable bequests.
Sutton has of late years grown largely
in wealth and population. Its easy dis
tance from London, the rly. facilities,
the proximity of the Downs, the pleasant-
* By a slip of the pen, Elizabeth was written
instead of Mary, under Beddington, p. 38, col. 1,

ness of the scenery, and its reported
salubrity, have made it a favourite resi
dence for City men, and houses have been
built for their accommodation on every
available site. Northwards a new district
of villas has sprung np ; and scattered
houses, or groups of houses, have been
built on all sides, with, of course, new
shops, inns, schools, and so forth.
BenhiUon, the district just referred to,
occupies the elevation N.E. of the old
vill., formerly known as Bon Hill, Been
Hill, and Ben Hill, and stretches away
westward over what was Sutton Common,
but enclosed and divided in 1810. Ben-
hilton was created an eccl. dist. in 1863,
and had 1790 inh. in 1871, but is now
much more populous. The Church (All
Saints) was erected in 1864-6 from the
designs of Mr. S. S. Teulon. It is of
flint and stone in courses, elaborately
irregular in outline ; in style early Dec,
and somewhat fanciful in the details as
weU as the general form. By it aie schools
and a parsonage correspondent in cha
racter, and together forming a rather
striking group. The fine 5-light E.
window of the cn. is filled with painted
glass as a memorial of the late Thos.
Alcook, Esq., M.P., who contributed
£18,000 towards the building and endow
ment. At Sutton, on rt. of the rly. stat., are
the South Metropolitan District Schools,
for pauper children from 17 parishes in
the E. and S.E. of London, who are edu
cated and trained for industrial pursuits.
The buildings, a large and noticeable
group, were opened in 1855, but enlarged
in 1874 by the addition of a -junior and
infant department and a new chapel.
They have cost, with the ground, over
£90,000, and can accommodate 1800 chil
dren, the average number being about
1600. About 14,000 children have passed
through the schools.
SUTTON-AT-HONE, Kent, on
the 1. bank of the Darent, and on the
road from Dartford to Farningham, 2J m.
S. of Dartford, and about f m. N.
of the Farningham Road Stat, of the
L. C. and D. Rly. Pop. of the par. 1671,
but of these 616 were in the eccl. dist. of
Swanley, and 105 in that of CrockenHill.
Inn, the Ship.
The manor of Sutton belonged to the

SUTTON-AT-HONE.

595

SUTTON-AT-HONE.

Knights of St. John of Jerusalem till the
suppression of the order. In the 12th
century they had a commandery here
called St. John's ; and about the same time
there existed a hospital.* Henry VIII.
granted the manor to Sir Maurice Dennis.
In the reign of Elizabeth it was divided,
Sutton going to Sir Thomas Smith, St.
John's to Thomas Cranfield, from whose
family it passed to Hollis, to the Lethieul
hers, and to the Mumfords. Sutton manor
is now the property of Thos. Fleet, Esq. ;
St. John's, of Mrs. Fleet.
Sutton Place, overlooking the river, i m.
N.E. of the ch., was built by Sir Maurice
Dennis, and was regarded as " a magni
ficent and elegant pile." In the reign of
Elizabeth it became the residence of Sir
Thomas Smith, and was by him "ex
tremely enlarged by the additions both of
bulk and ornament." Sir Thomas Smith
was one of the most remajkable among
Elizabeth's courtiers. He was not only,
as his mont. in Sutton ch. records,
"Governor of the East Indian and
other Companies, Treasurer of the
Virginian Plantation, and sometime
Ambassador to the Emperor and Great
Duke of Russia and Muscovy," but
also the prime mover and chief
"undertaker (in the year 1612) of that
noble design the Discovery of the North
west Passage." Purchas has a warm
"commendation of Sir Thomas Smith,"
as "he at whose forge and anvil have
been hammered 60 many irons for Nep
tune;" specifying in a note the "East
Indies, Virginia Summer Islands, North
and North- West discoveries, Muscovia,
etc." " At his house," he adds, " are kept
the courts, consultations, etc. I also have
been beholden to him in this work."*
He was the chief promoter of the voyages
of Hudson, and Bylot, and Baffin, and
the latter gave the name of ' Sir Thomas
Smith's Sound' to the northern extremity
or north-western arm of Baffin's Bay.
Smith died at Sutton Place in 1625, it is
said of the plague, then prevalent in the
neighbourhood. In the reign of Charles II.
Sutton Place was the residence of the
Countess of Leicester. It afterwards
passed to Mr. Hollis, to the Lethieulhers

804

Tanner; Dngdale, Monast., vol. vi., pp.
T Purchas his Pilgrimage, fol. 1614, p. 744,

and MumfordB, and is now the residence
of Thos. Ronaldson, Esq. The larger
part of the original house has been pulled
down or altered. The present house is in
the main modern. St. John's (J. Russell,
Esq.), lying in a meadow between the two
arms of the Darent, $ m. S.E. of the ch,,
has also been modernised, but retains
some portions of the old building. The
best preserved fragment is now used as
a scullery. The village is a long straggling line of
commonplace houses, built along the
main road, at an easy height above the
western arm of the Darent, and over
looking the valley between Darenth and
South Darenth. The neighbourhood is
varied and pleasant, comprising hill,
valley, and woods, and abounding in corn
fields, hop gardens, and cherry orchards.
The Clmrch (St. John the Baptist),
which stands W. of the vill., was seriously
damaged by fire and rebuilt in 1615, but
is in the main a late Dec. fabric. It is
of flint and stone, and consists of nave
with S. aisle, chancel, large S. porch, and
battlemented W. tower, with circular
stair turret. The windows have flowing,
almost flamboyant, tracery ; but the ch.
was restored in 1864, when a new E.
window was inserted and the others re
modelled. Several of the windows have
memorial painted glass. S. of the chancel
is the mont. of Sir Thomas Smith, of
Sutton Place, d. 1625, with recumbent
alabaster effigy; the figure without
colour, the arms and ornaments painted.
Hawley (anc. Hagelei, and called by
Philipott Holy Sawters), on the Darent,
1 m. N. of Sutton ch., belonged at the
Dom. Survey to Odo, Bp. of Bayeux ; in
the reign of Edwarjd III. to Lawrence de
Hastings, Earl of Pembroke ; in that of
Richard II. to Richard Fitz-Allen, Earl
of Arundel; then to the Earls of Aber
gavenny and Baron Beauchamp, and since
to various undistinguished persons. Haw
ley House is now the residence of Richard
Saunders, Esq. Below it are Mr. T. H.
Saunders' extensive paper mills, a hamlet,
and the Bull Inn.
Swanley, a hamlet on the road to the
Crays, nearly 2 m. S.W. of Sutton, has
grown into local importance since it has
become the junction station of the Seven
oaks and main lines of the L. C. and
D. Rly. Inn, the Lullingstone Castle.

SWANSCOMBE.

596

SWANSCOMBE.

In 1862 Swanley was made an eccl. dist.
The Church (St. Paul) is » pretty little
Gothic building, early Dec. in style ; the
interior ornamented with mural painting,
an elaborate reredos, painted glass win
dows, and carved oak seats. Swanley is
a great hop and fruit district. Here are
Parkwood House (Major Fanning), and
other good seats.
SWAKELEY, Middx. (see Ioken-
HAM). SWANLEY, Kent (see Sutton-
AT-HONE).
SWANSCOMBE, Kent, about 1 m.
S.W. of the Northfleet Stat, of the S.-E.
Rly. (North Kent line). Pop. of the par.
3105; but this includes 1276 in Green-
hithe (the chief part of that little town
being in Swanscombe par.), and 175 on
board the training ship Chichester ; the
pop. of Swanscombe proper was 1654.
In the Dom. Survey the name is written
Suinescamp, and this favours the early
and as would seem traditional derivation,
that it was here Sweyn, the Danish
king, landed and established his winter
quarters. "The tradition of the country is, that that
valley which interposes between the hill which
ascends up to Northfleet, and that which winds up
to Swanscamp, was once cowred with water, and
being locked in on each side with hills, made a
secure road for shipping, which invited the Dane
to make it a winter station for his navy ; and the
same report will tell you likewise, of anchors which
have been digged up about the utmost verge of
that marsh, which is contiguous to the Thames,
and certainly if we consider the position of this
valley, which is nothing but a chain of Marshland
interlaced with a stream called Ebbsfleet, which
swells and sinks with the flux and reflux of the
adjacent river, and the dimensions of their ships
then at that time in use, which were not of any
extraordinary bulk, this tradition is not impro
bable."* Philipott says that in his day (1695) there
were "dismantled ruins" at Swanscombe
"which evidence and declare to us that
there was .once a fortress there;" and Mr.
Taylor speaks of there still being barrows ;
but we know of none. Swanscombe has,
however, a more cherished tradition than
that of Sweyn and his camp. Here, ac-

* Philipott, Vill. Cant., p. 307; and comp.
Taylor, Words and Places, p. 180, and n. 4.

cording to tradition and chronicle, when,
after the Battle of Hastings, William I.
was in full march upon London, Stigand,
Abp. of Canterbury, and Egelsine, the
Abbot of St. Augustine's, had summoned
the men of Kent, and, having laid before
them the danger of the country, called
upon them to resist the invaders. Shout
ing assent, they elected the archbishop
and abbot to be their leaders. Like good
churchmen, the new captains resolved to
try the effect of stratagem before resorting
to force. Every man was ordered to cut a
green bough and carry it over his head, so
as to conceal himself as weU as his
weapons. They then marched forward
towards the advancing army. When
William and his officers saw this moving
wood they were filled with amazement,
whilst the soldiers gazed with feelings of
terror, thinking it had been some mira
culous forest coming towards them. Ap
proaching within hearing, the men of
Kent cast down their boughs, sounded
their trumpets, and clashed their arms ;
and at the same time the Abp. sent for
ward a messenger proffering a free way
if the king would engage to continue
them in the possession of their ancient
liberties and immunities. To this the
Conqueror willingly assented, and thus
from this gathering at Swanscombe it
happened that the men of Kent gained
those privileges which have ever since
been their proudest heirloom.
Swanscombe was one of the many
manors given by the Conqueror to Odo,
Bp. of Bayeux. It was long the property
of the Montchenseys, and was carried by
a heiress to Hugh de Vere, who sat in the
first Parliament of Edward II. as Baron
of Swanscombe. On his death it passed
in right of his wife, a niece of William de
Montchensey, to William de Valence, Earl
of Pembroke, and on the death without
issue, 1323, of Aymer de Valence, went to
his widow as her dowry, and then to his
sister Isabel, wife of Lawrence de Hast
ings, who, in her right, was made Earl
of Pembroke and Baron of Swanscombe.
On his death, 1389, it passed to Richard
Talbot, in whose descendants it remained
till towards the end of the reign of Henry
VI., when it was alienated to Sir Thomas
Brown, whose son resigned it to Edward
IV. in 1472. It remained the property
of the Crown till Elizabeth, in the first

SWANSCOMBE.

597

SWANSCOMBE.

year of her reign, granted it to Ralph
Weldon. From the Weldons, who held it
for several generations, it passed through
various hands, till, about the middle of
the 18th century, it was purchased by
Robert Child, the eminent banker, with
whose other estates it has descended to
the Earl of Jersey, the present lord of the
manor. The village stands on high ground
about a mile from the Thames, in the
midst of a rich and pleasant country, from
many parts of which there are fine views.
N. of it are the Swanscombe woods, a
favourite resort for picnic parties and
holiday folk. Here is a noted cavern in
the chalk known as Clappcrnabbcr's Hole,
of which the old inhabitants have many
stories to tell. The vill. consists of ordi
nary red brick, with a few old timber
and plaster houses, and the venerable ch.
standing amidst fine old elms, with a large
yew-tree W. of it. All around are farms,
corn-fields, hop gardens, and orchards.
In the lower part of the parish are lime
and cement works, but these belong rather
to Greenhithe and Northfleet than to
Swanscombe. Swanscombe Church (St. Peter and St.
Paul) is one of the most interesting village
churches in Kent. Parts of the tower are
asserted to be Saxon,* and Roman tiles have
been largely worked up in the basement.
The church had become very dilapidated ;
indeed as we saw it, in the summer of
1873, with the walls stripped and propped
by shores, it was difficult to understand
how it could have held together so long ;
but it has been thoroughly repaired and
restored under the careful supervision of
Mr. J. Bignall, at the cost of Prof.
Erasmus Wilson, a native of Swanscombe,
and though somewhat shorn of its pic
turesque attributes, bids fair to number a
new series of centuries. It consists of
nave with narrow aisles and clerestorey,
chancel, N. porch, and massive square
tower at the W. end, with tall shingled
spire — a landmark for miles around. The
nave, arcade, and chancel arch are late
or transition Norm. The walls of the
chancel (which, obs., inclines towards the
S.) are Norm., with 2 small Norm, and
2 lancet windows, the E. window, Dec,

* Bloxam, Gothic Architecture, 10th ed., p. 92 ;
Glossary of Architecture, voL i., p. 327.

showing when the chancel was lengthened.
The S. aisle and the clerestorey windows
are Dec. ; the N. aisle Perp. The base of
the tower appears to be Norm., the upper
part E.E., and later. The spire is new.
The interior is comparatively plain, but
good. Obs. the fine E.E. arch opening
from the tower to the nave. On the shafts
supporting the chancel arch may be
noticed the place of the rood loft and re
mains of the staircase by which it was
reached. During the restoration several
imperfect paintings, representations of
the Virgin, St. James, etc. , and ornamental
pattern work, were found in and about the
chancel. The lectern is old, and of excel
lent workmanship. There are several
monts. to the Weldons and others, the
most interesting being that to Sir Anthony
Weldon, Clerk of the Kitchen to Queen
Elizabeth and James I., and author of
1 The Court of King James,' — " the trea
sonous book," as Pepys designates, it,
" worth reading, though ill intended," in
which James is as ill-painted as was Sir
Anthony himself when Sir Walter Scott
drew him, in the ' Fortunes of Nigel,' as Sir
Mmngo Malagrowther. On the opposite
wall is the mont. of Lady Weldon.
Another is a sumptuous altar-tomb of
marble with recumbent alabaster effigies
of Sir Ralph Weldon, d. 1609, and his
wife ; the knight being in full armour.
In early times the ch. was much visited,
among others, by Canterbury pilgrims, on
account of its possessing the shrine of a
miracle-working Saint : —
"Thech. at Swanscombe was much haunted
times past for St. Hildeferlkes helpe (a Bishop by
coniecture of his picture yet standing in the upper
window of the S. ile, although his name is not
read in all the Catalogue of the Saxons) to whom
such as were distracted, ran for restitution of their
wits, as thicke as men were wonte to saile to
Anticyra for Heleborua." *
St. Hildeferth is unknown, but the
saint worshipped here was no doubt Bp.
Hildebert, who has a place in the calendar,
May 27. Only a fragment of the picture
of the saint mentioned by Lambarde is
now left.
The Manor House (John Coveney, Esq.),
the ancient seat of the Weldons, is an
interesting building. There are also some
good houses in the pleasant hamlet of
Knockholt, on the high ground overlooking
* Lambarde, Perambulation of Kent, p. 434 .

SYDENHAM.

598

SYDENHAM.

Greenhithe and the Thames, nearly 1 m.
W. of Swanscombe.
SYDENHAM, Kent, a populous
district, now in effect a London suburb,
lying between Dulwich and Norwood,
and Lewisham, to which last par. the
larger part of it belongs, is about 8 m.
from London, and 7 m. from Westminster
Bridge by road. Sydenham comprises
the eccl. dists. of St. Bartholomew, or
Upper Sydenham (formed 1855). pop.
5201 ; Christ Church, Forest Hill (1855),
pop. 5315 ; Holy Trinity, Sydenham Park
(1866), pop. 2962 ; St. Saviour's, Brockley
Hill (1867), pop. 3369 ; and St. Philip,
Sydenham Hill (1869), pop. 2218 ; in all
19,065 ; but this does not include the
Crystal Palace district, which though
locally a part of Sydenham, belongs to
Lambeth parish, and the county of
Surrey. Rly. Stats. : L., B., and S. C,
Upper Sydenham, and Forest Hill ; S.-E.,
Lower Sydenham; L., C, and D. Rly.
Sydenham Hill ; and Crystal Palace.
Of old only known as a genteel ham
let of Lewisham, famed for sylvan
retreats, charming prospects, and once
for its medicinal waters, Sydenham, after
the opening of the Croydon Rly., grew
rapidly in favour as a place of residence,
and still more rapidly after the opening
of the Crystal Palace. It has grown into
a district of villas, detached and semi
detached cottages, terraces, so-called
parks, and streets ; has some half-
dozen churches, Free, Presbyterian, Wes
leyan, and other chapels, many schools
both public and private, three public
halls, library and working-men's institutes,
and hotels, inns, and shops of all grades,
several local societies, and - two weekly
newspapers. Rut it has lost its rural
character, and is assuming every day
more the aspect of a suburb of London.
Churches. — St. Bartholomew's, Syden
ham Common (a common enclosed and
built over-), a roomy and commodious
ch., erected in 1830, and Gothic of that
period. Christ Church, near the Forest
Hill rly. station, a neat early Dec. build
ing, consecrated in 1855, and recently
completed by the erection of the chancel
and tower. Holy Trinity, Sydenham
Park, a Dec. building of pleasing design,
erected in 1865. St. Saviour's, Brockley
Hill, the north-eastern extremity of

Sydenham, a large stone fabric, Dec. in
style, consecrated in May 1866. St.,
Philip, Wells Road, a cruciform building
with apsidal chancel, E.E. in style,
erected in 1866, from the designs of Mr.
Edwin Nash. St. Michael and AU
Angels, Lower Sydenham, a common
place Perp. edifice, serves as a chapel-of-
ease to St. Batholomew's.
When mineral waters were in vogue,
Sydenham was resorted to for the waters
of a spring discovered in 1640 upon
Sydenham Common, and called indif
ferently the Lewisham, Dulwich, or
Sydenham Wells. The waters, which
were " of a mild cathartic quality nearly
resembling those of Epsom," according
to one authority, "a purging spring,"
according *fo another, " which have per
formed great cures in scrofulous, scor
butic, paralytic, and other stubborn
diseases ; " whilst a third asserts that
they are " a certain cure for every ill to
which humanity is heir," were recom
mended in a ' Treatise on Lewisham
Wells,' by John Peter, Physician, 1681 ;
and in another by Dr. Allen in 1699.
Evelyn, after visiting Dulwich College,
Sept. 2, 1675, "came back by certain
medicinal Spa waters, at a place called
Sydnam Wells, in Lewisham parish,
much frequented in summer." Their
popularity waned with that of the other
English medicinal waters, but the Wells
House continued to attract as a place of
summer entertainment, and it was the
head-quarters of the St. George's Bowmen
till the enclosure of Sydenham Common
put an end to their archery practice.
Till within our own memory, however,
the Sydenham Wells were resorted to by
scorbutic and paralytic patients. The
wells would be sought for in vain now.
The church of St. Philip (built 1865-6)
covers their site ; but there is a cottage
in which, according to the local tradition,
George III. once stayed best part of a
day whilst he drank of the waters — an
escort of the Life Guards forming »
cordon around the cottage.
Sydenham has no history, and the poet
Campbell is almost its only eminent resi
dent. Campbell's house is on Peak Hill —
the third on the rt. before reaching the
Sydenham Stat, of a row of tall plain
houses, the poet's house being distinguished
by green jalousies at the windows. The

SYDENHAM.

599

SYDENHAM.

house is unaltered, but the gardens upon
which it looked are gone. The house
next to Campbell's has long been occupied
by Mr. J. B. Buckstone. Here, as he
wrote after leaving it, Campbell spent
bis happiest years. He came to live here
in 1804, after he had achieved fame by
the publication of the ' Pleasures of Hope.'
He wrote to his publisher, —
" I find myself obliged to remove a few months
aooner than I expected to a new house of whioh I
have taken a lease for 21 years. The trouble of
this migration is very serious. ... I have ven
tured on the faith of your support to purchase the
fixtures of a very excellent house, and about £100
worth of furniture, whioh, being sold along with the
fixtures, I get at broker's appraisement, i.e., half
of prime cost. ... If you come to London and
drink to the health of Auld Reekie over my new
mahogany table — if you take a walk round my
garden and see my Draw house, my court-yard,
hens, geese, and turkeys, or view the lovely
country in my neighbourhood, you will think this
fixture and furniture money well bestowed. I
shall indeed be nobly settled, and the devil ia in
it if I don't work as nobly for it." *
CampbeU lived here for about 16
years. He wrote here ' Gertrude of
Wyoming,' 'O'Connor's Child,' and 'The
Battle of the Baltic,' but he gave up his
" noble work " for magazine management,
editing, and hack writing which did him no
credit. He lived handsomely at Syden
ham, was visited by Scott, Rogers, Moore,
and other distinguished men, and formed
about him a little social circle, including
Hill, the original of Paul Pry, who lived
close by, and other genial spirits ; and
their convivialities helped little to further
the poet's studies or improve his circum
stances. His convivialities were not con
fined to his house. Sir Charles Bell
describes a visit to " Tom Campbell's at
Sydenham," and how, after spending the
evening indoors, he and the poet " rambled
down the village and walked under the
delightful trees in the moonlight ; " then
"adjourned to the inn and took an egg
and plotty. Tom got glorious in pleasing
gradation, until, etc. . . . His wife
received him at home, not drunk, but in
excellent spirits. After breakfast we
wandered over the forest ; not a soul to
be seen in all Norwood." f Bell would
find the place strangely altered now:
* Thos. Campbell to Archibald Constable, Nov.
10, 1804 ; Constable and his Literary Correspond
ents, vol. i., p. 169.
+ Letters of Sir Charles Bell, 1870, p. 75.

there are still trees in the village, but
" the forest " is gone, and he would look
far for solitude. Campbell's Sydenham
housekeeping would have been sorely
hampered but for the pension of £200 a
year- granted him in 1806.
Two years before Campbell settled at
Sydenham, » more unfortunate poet,
Thomas Dermody, died there (July 15,
1802), in abject misery, in a wretched
lodging at Perry Slough, now called
Perry Vale, on the opposite side of the
railway, almost within sight of Campbell's
front window. The house has long been
removed. Dermody was buried in Lew
isham ch.-yard.
The Crystal Palace, though not in
Sydenham, is always considered to belong
to it, and may be briefly noticed here. It
occupies the summit of the high ground
to the S.W. of Sydenham. The land
over which the palace grounds, of about
200- acres, stretch, falls rapidly away to
the E., and from the terrace in front of
the palace a prospect is obtained of sur
passing beauty over richly wooded and
undulating plains to the distant hills of
Kent and Surrey. A finer site could
hardly be desired, for the building, and
the grounds, and gardens increase in
beauty every year. The handsome house
a little N. of the palace, and overlooking
the grounds is Rockhill, from 1852 the
residence of Sir Joseph Paxton, the most
fortunate of gardeners, the designer of
the Crystal Palace, the Exhibition building
of 1851, of Chatsworth conservatory and
gardens, and of ducal Edensor, who died
at Rockhill, June 8, 1865.
The palace, we need hardly repeat, was
constructed on the plan and from the
materials of the Great Exhibition of 1851,
but with many modifications of form and
details. The lofty towers at the extremi
ties were designed by Brunei. The first
column of the main structure was raised
on the 5th of August, 1852 ; the building
was formally opened on the 10th of June,
1854, the Queen, the Prince Consort, the
King of Portugal, and other distinguished
personages being present at the ceremony.
The larger portion of the northern wing,
including the tropical department and
the Assyrian court, was destroyed by fire,
Dec. 30, 1866, and has only been partially
rebuilt — much to the injury of the
symmetry of the edifice. The building is

SYON HOUSE.

600

SYON HOUSE.

too well known to require description.
For its varied contents, artistic, archaeo
logical, ethnological, industrial, and orna
mental, we must refer the visitor to the
' Guide to the Palace and Park,' and the
Handbooks to the various Courts, pub
lished by the company, and obtainable
at the palace. The building, though it
has hardly fulfilled the anticipations of
its projectors that it would inaugurate a
" new order " of architecture, and prove a
" structure capable of enduring longer
than the oldest marble or stone architec
tural monuments of antiquity," — seeing
that it has already required repairs to an
extent that has severely tried, the com
pany's resources, has shown itself pecu
liarly vulnerable to storm and fire, and
that despite of every effort it has not been
made rain-proof, — is a structure of its
kind without a rival ; and has, during the
quarter of a century it has been in exist
ence, provided the means of instruction
and wholesome recreation to a far greater
number of persons (it has had over forty
million visitors) than any other private
establishment in twice that time ; and
with judicious management there is no
reason to apprehend any abatement of
popularity or patronage.
It is needless to particularise the rly.
facilities. The Crystal Palace is now in
connection with nearly all the metropo
litan lines.
SYON (or SION) HOUSE, Isle-
wobth, Middx., the seat of the Duke of
Northumberland, stands in a small but
very pretty park which stretches from
Brentford to Isleworth along the 1. bank
of the Thames, opposite Kew Gardens.
The chief entrance is by the Lion Gate
on the Hownslow road, \ m. beyond
Brentford, but a narrow lane at Brentford
End, a short distance E. of the gate, leads
to a public footpath which crosses the
park to Isleworth, and affords a good view
of the house.
Syon House occupies the site of Syon
Monastery, the history of which is given
under Islewoeth (p. 378, etc.) The
house and appurtenances were granted
by Edward VI., in the first year of his
reign, to his uncle, the Duke of Somerset,
Lord Protector, who at once began to
build a stately palace on the site. As
barely four years elapsed before his at

tainder and execution, it is probable that
he left the house unfinished, but Somerset's
house is believed to be the shell of the
present mansion. Having reverted to the
Crown by Somerset's attainder, Syon was
given by Edward VI. in 1553 to John
Duke of Northumberland, and here were
held the preliminary meetings at which it
was arranged to offer the crown to Lady
Jane Grey, who was then staying at Syon
House with her husband, Lord Dudley ;
and it was from Syon House that she
proceeded in state to the Tower.
By Northumberland's execution Syon
reverted to the Crown ; and Mary, as
mentioned under Isleworth, restored it to
the displaced Abbess and nuns. But they
held it only to the accession of Elizabeth,
when Sir Francis Knowles was appointed
keeper for life, with reversion to his son.
In 1604 James I. granted Syon to Henry
Percy Earl of Northumberland, who had
previously secured the leases of the de
mesne lands granted by Elizabeth. But
the Earl feU into disfavour,* and was
eventually arrested on suspicion of com
plicity in the Gunpowder Plot, and sent
to the Tower. After lying there some
years, he was deprived of his offices, and
by a decree of the Star Chamber amerced
in a penalty of £30,000. In his distress
he petitioned the King (1613) for mercy,
and begged him in lieu of the fine to
accept of Syon, " the only land I can put
away, the rest being entailed." He had
spent upon Syon, he tells the King, " part
ly upon the house, partly upon the gar
dens, almost £9,000;" and, he concludes,
" if any man, the best husband in building,
should raise such another in the same
place, £20,000 would not do it ; so as
according to the works it may be reckoned
at these rates, £31,000 ; and as it may be
sold and pulled in pieces, £19,000, or
thereabout." But the King valued money
more than house and land, and the unfor
tunate nobleman lay 6 years longer in
prison (15 in aU), when he was released
on payment of £11,000, and returned to
Bpend his latter years at peace in Syon.
His son, Algernon Percy, 10th Earl of
Northumberland, enlarged and greatly
altered Syon House, employing Inigo
Jones as his architect. In 1647, the
plague being then in London, the Dukes
of York and Gloucester and the Princess
Elizabeth were sent by the Parliament to

SYON HOUSE.

601

SYON HOUSE.

Syon, and allowed to visit their father,
Charles I., freely at Hampton Court. (See
Hampton Court.) By the marriage, in
16S2, of Lady Elizabeth Percy, Syon was
conveyed to Charles Seymour (the Proud)
Duke of Somerset — (he being her third
husband, and she just 15). Whilst in his
possession Syon House became the tem
porary residence of the Princess (after
wards Queen) Anne, who here gave birth
to a son, April 16, 1692, who, however,
only lived an hour.
Shortly after the death of Charles Duke
of Somerset, 1748, his son and successor,
Algernon, gave Syon to his daughter
Elizabeth, and her husband, Sir Hugh
Smithson, who was afterwards created
Duke of Northumberland, and in whose
descendants the title and estates have
since continued. It is to this Duke that
Syon House owes its present form, and the
gardens much of their beauty. Calling in
to his aid Robert Adam, the most popular
architect of the day, he entirely remodelled
the exterior, and altered and fitted the
interior in a style of great magnificence.
Adam was very proud of his work, and
Horace Walpole claimed a share in the
internal arrangements :
" I have been this evening to Syon, which is
becoming another Mount Palatine. Adam has
displayed great taste and the Earl matches it with
magnificence. The Gallery is converting into a
museum in the style of a columbarium, according
to an idea that I proposed to my Lord Northum
berland."* The Duke's improvements, which ex
tended over many years, were not confined
to the house, gardens, and conservatories.
The well-known and much criticised Lion
Gate was one of the works Adam devised
for him.
" Mr. Adam has published the first number of his
Architecture. In it is a magnificent gateway and
screen for the Duke of Northumberland at Syon,
which I see erecting every time I pass. It is all
lace and embroidery, and as croquant as his frames
for tables ; consequently most improper to be ex
posed in the high road to Brentford. From Kent's
mahogany we are dwindled to Adam's filigree.
Grandeur and simplicity are not yet a fashion." t
Times change, and tastes change with
them. Whatever may be thought of its
grandeur, or want of it, Adam's fihgree, if
compared with recent work, would be
pronounced simplicity itself.
Syon House is a large quadrangular
* Walpole to the Earl of Hertford, Aug. 27, 17f4.
i H. Walpole to Bev. Wm. Ma^on, July 29, 1773 ;
Letters, vol. v., p. 489.

building, with a square tower at each
angle, faced with Bath stone, three storeys
high (including the ground floor), and
crowned with an embattled parapet. In
the centre of the W. front is an embattled
portico, which affords a covered way for
carriages, and serves as the grand entrance,
a flight of steps leading from it to the great
hall. From this front a broad lawn
extends to the footpath to Isleworth,
flanked on either hand by an embattled
square stone lodge. The E. or riverfront
has an arcade extending the entire length
of the ground floor, between the towers ; a
projecting central bay carried the whole
height of the building, and crowned,
Sept. 30, 1874, with the well-known
lion mounted on his old arched pedes
tal, which, till its demolition, graced
the Strand front of Northumberland
House. This front, with the surrounding
trees, is seen to great advantage from the
Thames, and has certainly gained in
dignity and picturesqueness by the addi
tion of the lion, which aptly breaks the
hard line of battlements. From this
front the view is very charming, the
lawns bordered by noble trees sloping
down to the Thames, which, as the
boundary-wall is sunk and concealed,
appears to flow through the grounds, Kew
Gardens on the opposite bank forming
in semblance a part of the domain.
The Great Hall is a noble room, 66 ft.
by 31, and 34 ft. high. The floor is of
black and white marble ; along the sides
are antique statues. It leads to the Vesti
bule, always regarded as one of the richest
and most effective of Adam's apartments.
It is about 34 ft. by 30, and 21 ft. high ;
has 12 Ionic columns of verd antique
(found in the Tiber, and bought by the
Duke of Northumberland for £1000 each),
16 pilasters of the same costly material,
rilievi on the walls, and a floor of scagliola
worked in patterns. The Drawing Room,
44 ft. by 21, and 21 ft. high, is the most
sumptuous room in the house. The fittings,
furniture, and decorations are of the
richest and most costly kind; and the
elaborately ornamented ceiling, chimney-
pieces, and Mosaic tables, Roman antiques
found in the Baths of Titus, deserve at
tention as works of art as well as ornament.
Here, also, are a few good portraits.
In the Dining Room, a fine apartment,
62 ft. by 21, and about 22 ft. high, the

SYON HOUSE.

602

TANDRIDGE.

walls relieved by marble pilasters, are
some good portraits of Dukes and
Duchesses of Northumberland, by Rey
nolds, Barry, Lawrence, etc. ; a portrait of
Queen Charlotte, by Reynolds, and a few
more. In an adjoining room are por
traits, by Ward, of the favourite chargers
of Bonaparte and Wellington ; Landseer's
Deer- Stalkers; and a Boar Hunt, by Sny-
ders. In the corridors and smaller rooms
are portraits by Albert Diirer (of his
Father), Schoreel, Schaiiffelein, Bernard
Van Orley, and other early German
masters ; and one or two by Hans Hol
bein. The other pictures include works
of various degrees of merit by Garofalo,
Luca Giordano, Salvator Rosa, Both,
Gaspar Poussin, D. Teniers, Weenix, and
other masters of the various schools, but
recent and prospective changes render it
undesirable to go further into details. The
Gallery, of which Horace Walpole claimed
to have given the idea, extends the entire
length of the eastern front, and is 135 ft.
long, 14 ft. wide, and 14 ft. high. The
walls and ceiling are decorated with
stucco-work and paintings in chiaroscuro.
It is arranged as a combined museum and
library, and contains, besides a fine col
lection of books, numerous objects of
antiquity, and a splendid vase of Irish
crystal mounted in gold which was pre
sented by the ladies- of Ireland to a late
Duchess of Northumberland when leaving
Ireland at the close of the Duke's Lord
Lieutenancy. The grounds, though level, are charming.
They were laid out by Brown, but have
since been much altered. The lawns are
wide and smooth, the trees and shrubs of
unusual variety, size, and beauty. There
are magnificent cedars, the largest stone-
pines in England, silver firs of surprising
height, as well as many other varieties of
the fir tribe, spruces, poplars, Turkey oaks,

copper beeches, Judas trees, tulip trees,
magnolias, catalpas, large groups of
acacias, giant Portugal laurels, and most
of the ordinary park trees.
The gardens of Syon are of great extent
and beauty, and have always been cele>
brated. The Protector Somerset, the
builder of the first house, formed a
" botanic garden " here, one of the first
formed in England. It is twice noticed
in the Herbal (1568) of Dr. Turner— who
was Somerset's physician, and may have
been his adviser in gardening. The Earl
of Northumberland too, as we have seen,
spent large sums on the Syon gardens
(1616). It has since been several times
remodelled, its present form being in the
main due to the late Richard Forrest. It
is especially famous for its fine collection
of hardy exotics. The flower gardens are
brilliant, and the fruit and kitchen gardens,
some acres in extent, are models of good
order and productiveness. The plant and
forcing houses are very large, and much
admired by horticulturists for their ar
rangements. The Great Conservatory,
designed by Fowler, is in the form of a
wide crescent, with pavilions at the
extremities, and a lofty central dome.
The centre, 100 feet long, is a tropical
house, and is said to contain the finest
collection of tropical plants in any private
establishment in England. It is note
worthy that here only in this country has
the cocoanut palm fully ripened ; and the
Victoria regia blossoms more freely and
successfully than elsewhere. The stone
vases on the pedestals of the terrace in
front of the conservatory were carved by
Grinling Gibbons.
In the outbuilding are some fragments
of Syon Monastery, and tradition affirms
that the ancient mulberry trees — now kept
alive with difficulty — belonged to the
convent gardens.

TADWOKTH, Surrey (see Kings-
wood).
TAL WORTH, Surrey (see Ditton,
Long). TANDRIDGE, Surrey (Dom.
Tenrige), IJ m. E. of Godstone, 2 \ m. N.E,

of Godstone Road Stat, of the S.-E. Rly. :
pop. 623, of whom 168 were in the eccl.
dist. of Blindley Heath, and 30 in that of
Felbridge. The village stands in a pretty sequestered
district, away from any main line of road.
The pursuits are agricultural ; the fields
mostly of corn and roots, with a few hop-

TATSFIELD.

603

TEDDINGTON.

gardens. An Augustinian priory, or hospi
tal, for 3 priests and several poor brethren,
was founded here in the reign of Richard I.
Never rich, it yet continued to the Disso
lution, when its revenue was valued at
£78 16*. 6Jd. It stood at the foot of the
chalk hills, but no vestige is left of the
buildings. Near the site is a house called
The Priory. Encaustic tiles have often
been turned up by plough or spade.
The Church (St. Peter) stands on high
ground, E. of the vill. It is small, though
more than once enlarged. Originally
Norman, it has had Dec. windows in
serted ; in 1836 a N. transept was added ;
in 1844 a S. aisle ; and in 1874 a N. aisle, Sir
Gilbert Scott being the architect. The large
Dec. W. window was inserted and filled
with painted glass as a memorial of Lord
Chancellor Cottenham, d. 1861. Several
other windows have memorial glass. The
ch. has a tower and spire, with a peal of
5 bells. In the ch.-yard is the grave,
marked by a plain coffin tombstone with a
cross at the head, of Sir J. Cosmo Melvill,
K.C.B., of the India Office. A more elabo
rate tomb is that of Mrs. Turner, wife of
C. H. Turner, Esq., at whose cost the N.
aisle of the ch. was built. W. of the ch.
is the gigantic trunk of a yew, which still
puts forth abundant leaves, though the
trunk is quite hoUow.
Tand ridge Court, E. of the ch., is the
seat of the Earl of Cottenham. Rook's
Nest, a stately semi-classical mansion,
with Ionic portico, on the way to God-
sto'ne, belongs to F. M. H. Turner, Esq.,
and is now the residence of Mrs. Bonsor.
Other seats are Tandridge Hall (Henry
Gbschen, Esq.), a fine late 16th cent, man
sion, but much altered ; and Southlands
(W. Dickenson, Esq.), a good modern
house.
TATSFIELD, Surrey, on the
eastern border of the county, adjoining
Westerham, Kent, from which town
Tatsfield ch. is about 2J m. N.W. Pop.
187.* Tatelefelle, at the Dom. Survey, was
held by Anchetel de Ros of Bp. Odo.
Early in the 14th cent, the manor be
longed to Richard Fitz-Griffin, and re
mained with his descendants till about
1367. It then passed to the Uvedales, by
whom it was held till alienated by Sir
Wm. Uvedale to Sir John Gresham about

1634. By his marriage with Catherine
Maria, daughter and heiress of Sir John
Gresham, in 1804, it passed to W. Leveson
Gower, Esq., and is now the property of
G. W. G. Leveson Gower, Esq. Tatsfield
Court Lodge, the old manor-house, stood
near the ch., but was pulled down by the
last Sir John Gresham. A new house was
built at the foot of the hill, on the road to
Westerham ; but there is no gentleman's
seat now occupied in the parish.
The Church (dedication unknown) is a
plain old village ch., of flint and stone,
standing on the summit of the chalk ridge
which runs E. and W. through the par.
It comprises nave, chancel, and W. tower.
The walls, of great thickness, are in part
E.E. (obs. the two lancets high up on the
N., and their splays inside), but the win
dows are Dec. The tower and porch are
modern (1838) and poor. E. of the ch. is
a yew of great size, but formed of several
stems. The views from the ch.-yard are
extensive and fine. Along the S. slope of
the bill the ancient Pilgrims' Road runs
into Kent.
TEDDINGTON, Middx., on the 1.
bank of the Thames, and on the main
road from Richmond to Bushey Park and
Hampton Court, midway, IJ m., between
Kingston-upon-Thames and Twickenham,
12 m. from London by road, and a stat.
on the L. and S.-W. Rly. (New Kingston
line). Pop. 4063. Inns : Clarence Hotel,
Park Road ; Anglers'; Royal Oak ; King's
Head (anglers' houses).
It is a favourite legend at Teddington,
and one adopted by the Emperor Napoleon
III. in his ' Cesar,' that the place owes its
name to the tide being arrested here —
Tide-end-town. But the tide is stayed by a
lock— the lowest on the Thames— and locks
are » comparatively recent invention.
In early times, before the construction
of bridges, locks, and other obstructions,
there can be no doubt the tide ascended
much higher. But the fatal objection to
the popular etymology is the spelling of
the name, in the oldest records, Totyngton,
Todynton,whiah points pretty conclusively
to a patronymic, Toding, as in Totingas,
Tooting, or Tceting, as in Taddington,
Gloucestershire .
The tide now flows but feebly some
way below Teddington : high-water at
Teddington Lock is 1 h. 25 m. later than

TEDDINGTON.

604

TEDDINGTON.

at London Bridge, the distance being 19 J
m. The old, lumbering, but picturesque
Teddington Lock has given place to a
more solid and convenient structure of
masonry, with a siding for the quicker
passage of skiffs and pleasure-boats. There
is good fishing on the Thames here, though
no established deep. The Anglers' is the
head-quarters for fishermen, and a fa
vourite house of call with boating men.
The Kemps are old-established fishermen.
Teddington Lock is the limit below which,
by Act of Parliament (1852-3), no water
can be taken from the Thames for the
supply of London.
Teddington manor, originaUy an appur
tenance of Staines, belonged to West
minster Abbey till the Dissolution. Leases
were granted to various persons by the
Crown, till James I., in 1603, gave the
reversion of the manor in fee farm to
James HiU. It has since been several
times aUenated, but has had no owners of
mark. The viUage extends from the river-side,
where is the ch., on the one hand towards
Twickenham, on the other, in a very
irregular way, to the gates of Bushey
Park. Several of the old mansions for
which Teddington was once celebrated
have been removed, but a- few remain, and
a large number of villas and genteel dwell
ings have been buUt within the last years,
the proximity of the river, Bushey Park,
and Hampton Court rendering it an at
tractive place of residence now that the
railway has made it readily accessible.
A new viUage has sprung up about the
stat., Upper Teddington, which already
has ch., schools, hotel, and shops of a
more showy description than those of the
mother viUage.
The Church (St. Mary), close by the
river, is a mean brick building ; the S.
aisle, the oldest part, of the 16th cent.,
the N. aisle built in 1753, chiefly at the
expense of Dr. Stephen Hales, who also
built the tower in the following year.
The chancel, of Suffolk brick and Dec. in
style, is a recent addition. The interior
is as poor as the exterior, but has some
monts. of interest. The earhest is to Sir
Orlando Bridgman, d. June 1674, com
missioner for Charles I. at the treaty of
Uxbridge, and after the Restoration suc
cessively Chief Baron of the Exchequer,
Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and

Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, from
which office he was, however, dismissed
in 1672 for refusing to sign the Declara
tion of Indulgence. E. waU of N. aisle,
tablet to " Margaret Woffington, spinster,"
d. March 28, 1760, the once famous actress
Peg Woffington. In the vestry, tablet to
" Stephen Hales, D.D., clerk of the closet
to the Princess of Wales, who was minister
of this parish 51 years," d. Jan. 4, 1761,
author of ' Vegetable Statics,' ' Statical
Essays,' and other valuable books and
papers in natural history and physiology,
and inventor of a system of ventilation
which was successfully applied in hospi
tals, prisons, ships, and other close and
crowded places. He was buried under
the tower which he had erected. Tablet
to John Walter, founder and principal
proprietor of the Times, the first of three
distinguished bearers of that name : he
had a residence at Teddington, where he
died, Nov. 16, 18L2. At the W. end of the
ch. is the mont. of Henry Flitcroft, archi
tect of the churches of St. Giles in the
Fields, and St. Olave, Tooley Street. The
body of Paul Whitehead, the poet, of
dubious fame, d. Dec. 30, 1774, was buried
in Teddington ch.-yard, but his heart, by
his own desire, was placed in a marble urn,
and deposited, with various heathenish
ceremonies, in the mausoleum of his
patron, Lord Le Despencer, at West
Wycombe ; from which, after being ex
hibited to visitors for 60 years, it was
stolen in 1839. Whitehead has no me
morial at Teddington. His residence was
on Twickenham Common. At Teddington
also was buried Richard Bentley, d. 1782,
the son of the great Greek scholar, author
of ' Patriotism,' and other forgotten poems,
sometime friend of Horace Walpole, his
adviser and draughtsman in the erec
tion and decoration of Strawberry Hill,
and illustrator of some of the volumes
issued from the Strawberry Hill press.
Hales' successor in the curacy of Ted
dington was John Cosens, D.D., who
published ' The Tears of Twickenham,'
' GUconomics of Beauty,' and other poems,
and some volumes of sermons.
The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul,
Upper Teddington, a large and handsome
E.E. building of yellow brick with red
brick mouldings and cornices, was partly
erected in 1866, and completed (except
the tower and spire) in 1873, from the

THEOBALDS.

60s

THEOBALDS.

designs of Mr. G. E. Street, R.A. By it is
a spacious school-house, corresponding in
architectural character, erected in 1874.
The Manor House was built by Lord
Buckhurst early in the 17th cent. In the
18th cent, it was for several years the
residence of Visct. Dudley and Ward, who
altered the house and remodelled the
grounds, where among other things he
constructed, if we may trust his neighbour
Horace Walpole, " an obelisk below a hedge,
a canal at right angles with the Thames,
and a sham bridge no wider than that of
a vioUn." * His widow married a Capt.
Smith, who swept away aU these pueri
lities, and " nearly rebuUt " the house.
It is now the residence of George
Vatcher, Esq.
Among the more eminent inhabitants
of Teddington are Q. Elizabeth's Earl of
Leicester, who resided here in 1570 ; and
the celebrated WiUiam Penn, who dated
the letter, in which he rebutted the charge
of being a Papist, from Teddington, Oct.
1688. Francis Manning dates the Preface
of his translation of Theodosius from
Teddington, and he continued to live here
for many years afterwards.f WhUst still
an outlaw, John Wilkes, during a surrep
titious visit to England, had " an out-of-
the-way lodging in the second turning
past Teddington Church. "J John O'Keefe,
the dramatic author, was resident at
Teddington in 1794 whilst he deUvered
his 'Works,' in 4 volumes, to his sub
scribers.
THAMES DITTON, Surrey (see
Ditton). THEOBALDS, a manor and the
site of a royal palace and park, in the par.
of Cheshunt, Herts. Under Cheshunt
an account has been given of the manor.
The palace was built, 1560 and foUowing
years, by Elizabeth's famous minister,
William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burleigh,
who had purchased the manor of Mr. Wm.
Goring. CecU began his house, as he writes
(Aug. 1585), " with a mean measure, but
* Walpole to the Earl of Strafford, July 28, 178f;
Letters, vol. ix., p. 102.
t Lysons, vol. ii., p. 736.
% Entry in Bir Joshua Reynolds s Pocket-book,
Aug. 28, 1766 : quoted in Leslie and Taylors Life
of Sir 3. Reynolds, vol. i., p. 258.

increased on occasion of her Majesty's
often comyng." Elizabeth, in fact, came
often, and did not come alone. She loved
to witness the hunting of a hart, and
Theobalds was close at hand to Enfield
Chase or Waltham Forest. From 1564
she made a visit of some duration every
summer, and her host was bound to adapt
his house to her requirements. In the
contemporary Life of Lord Burleigh it is
said, —
"Her Majestie sometimes had strangers and
ambassadors come to her at Theobalds ; where
she hath byn sene in as great royalty, and served
as bountifully and magnificently as at any other
time or place, all at his Lordship's chardg : with
rich shows, pleasant devices, and all manner of
sports could be devised, to the great delight of her
Majestie and her whole traine." *
CecU entertained the Queen 12 times,
and each visit of his imperious mistress
cost him "from £2000 to £3000," — a
large sum in those days. At other times
considerable state was maintained at
Theobalds :—
" His Lordship's hall was ever well furnished
with men, served with meats and kept in good
order. For his steward kept a standing table for
gentlemen ; besides two other long tables (many
times twice set) one for the clerk of the kitchen,
the other for yeomen. And, whether his Lordship
were absent or present, all men, both retainers
and others, resorted continually to meat and meale
at their pleasures  His Lordship was served
with men of qualitie and habilitie  Inso
much as I have nombred in his house, attending
on the table, 20 gentlemen of his retainer of
£1000 per annum a peace in possession or reversion.
And of his ordinary men as manie. Some worth
£1000 ; some worth 3, 5, 10, yea £20,000, daiely
attending his Lordship's service  He also
greatly delighted in making gardens, fountains,
and walks, which at Theobalds were perfected
most costly, bewtyfully, and pleasantly; where
one might walk two mile in the Walks before he
came to their ends." f His greatest delight was to
" lye a day or two at his little lodge at Theobaldes,
retired from business. . . Riding in his garden and
walks upon his little mule was his greatest dis
port." X
Cecil's house was a stately structure of
brick with stone dressings, comprising a
central entrance gate-house, and two
quadrangles with smaller courts, in style
something between Hatfield and Knole.
The first quadrangle, 86 ft. square, called
the Fountain Court, from a fountain sup
ported by 4 pillars of black marble, be
tween which was a group of Venus and

* The Compleat Statesman, chap, xviii. Peck,
Desiderata Curiosa, lib. i, p. 33-
t Ibid., pp. 31—34. t Ibid., p. 50.

THEOBALDS.

606

THEOBALDS.

Cupid in white marble, contained the state
rooms. On the ground floor was the Great
HaU, paved with Purbeck marble, and
having a roof of " carved timber of curious
workmanship." The Presence Chamber
was fined with carved wainscot, and had a
" ceiling fuU of gilded pendants hanging
down, setting forth the room with great
splendor." On the first floor were the
Presence Chamber, a Privy Chamber,
richly ornamented,Withdrawing Chamber,
King's Bed-chamber and a Gallery 123 ft.
long and 21 wide, "wainscotted with oak,
and paintings over the same of divers cities
rarely painted and set forth with a frett
seelinge, with divers pendants roses and
flower-de-luces, painted and gilded with
gold." Numerous other chambers and
gaUeries were of corresponding splendour.
The Middle Court was a quadrangle 110 ft.
sq., containing the Queen's Chapel, Privy
Chamber, and other apartments, the
Prince's Lodgings, the Duke's Lodgings,
the Queen's Gallery, 109 ft. by 14 ft, aU
of great splendour. S. of the house was,
what may be regarded as a particular ex
emplification of CecU's personal taste, " a
large open cloister, buUt upon several
large faire pillars of stone, arched over
with 7 arches, with a fair rayle and
balisters, weU painted with the Kinges
and Queenes of England, and the pedigree
of the old Ld. Burleigh, and divers other
ancient families ; with paintings of many
castles and battailes, with divers subscrip
tions on the waUs."* The gardens, which
were very large, and considered the finest
in England, were laid out in the taste of
the age, with lakes, canals, bridges, foun
tains, labyrinths, knots, terraces, and
summer-houses, and adorned with marble
statues and busts, " and columns and pyra
mids of wood up and down the garden."!
The first Earl of Salisbury, Burleigh's
youngest son, succeeded to Theobalds, and
entertained James I. here for four days
(May 1603), on his way from Scotland to
take possession of the EngUsh throne,
and here James received the homage of
th-; Lords of the Council, and created his
first batch of 28 English knights. Three
years later James was again here with his
* Parliamentary Survey, 1650, quoted in Lysons,
vol. i., p. 773, etc. ; Nichols, Progresses of Queen
Elizabeth ; Compleat Statesman, etc
* See the description in Paul Hentzner's Journey
to England in 1598, Walpole's trans., p. 52.

father-in-law, Christian, King of Den
mark.* So deUghted was James with
the place that he persuaded the Earl to
exchange it with him for Hatfield — the
present seat of the Marquis of Salisbury,
the lineal descendant of the owner of
Theobalds. (See Hatfield House.) An
Act (4 and 6 Jas. I.) was passed for the
transfer of Hatfield, and the King re
ceived possession of Theobalds, May 22,
1607. " In purchasing of Theobald's House 
the king did desire to gratify Salisbury, and surely
the House was not bo fit for a subject. It is very
large, well contrived, very stately, a very sweet
wholesome place ; but had neither lordship nor
tenants, nor so much as provision of fuel : only
a Park for pleasure and no more. Now seeing the
king had houses about London on every side:
in Kent he had Greenwich and Eltham ; in Essex,
Havering; in Middlesex, Hampton Court; in
Surrey, Nonsuch and Richmond and Oatlands ;
therefore in the northern side towards Scotland
he desired to have one house ; and in his time
he made more use of it than of any other. Besides
it was near to Waltham Forest, which is the
nearest forest to London, and no doubt but he had
an advantageous change, f
Ben JonBon wrote his ' Entertainment
of the Two Kings of Great Britain and
Denmark at Theobald's for the reception
of Christian IV. in 1606.' When, the
following year, Theobalds was about to
be formally transferred by Cecil to the
King, Jonson was again called in to
¦furnish matter for the royal feast. He
prepared the masque entitled ' Enter
tainment of King James and Queen Anne
at Theobald's in 1607,' and in it he makes
the Genius of the House, when Lord
Salisbury delivers possession to the Queen,
exchange sorrow for the loss of such a
master for joy at the acquisition of so
incomparable a mistress.
James greatly extended the park by
taking in a portion of Enfield Chase, and
Northaw and Cheshunt commons, and he
surrounded it with a wall 10 miles in cir
cumference. " At the distance of every
mile there was fixed in the wall a square
stone, with the date of the year and the
number of miles."J When Lysons wrote
* A glowing account of their reception was
given in ' The King of Denmark's Welcome,' 4to,
1606. 1 Bishop Goodman, Court of King James, vol. i.,
p. 174 : the bishop wrote in reply to Sir Anthony
Weldon, who of course gives a different colour to
the purchase.
} Lysons, vol i., p. 776, a. 33.

THEOBALDS.

607

THEOBALDS.

(1810), " one of these, with the figure VIII.
and the date 1621," still remained "in a
part of the old wall which forms the
boundary of Mr. RusseU's garden at
Aldbury." James spent most of his
leisure at Theobalds. The New River
was carried through the park, and James
took great interest in its construction.
But it was nearly proving fatal to him.
Riding in the park with Prince Charles
on a winter afternoon, when the New
River was thinly frozen over, the King's
horse stumbled, and the King was thrown
forward and disappeared under the ice.
Sir Richard Young plunged into the water,
seized the King by his boots, the only
parts visible, and dragged him ashore,
Uttle the worse for his immersion. James
was at Theobalds in March 1625, when
he was attacked by tertian ague, and after
nearly a month of irregular medical treat
ment and much suffering, he died there,
March 27, 1625.
Charles I. visited Theobalds occasion
ally. Henry Cary Lord Falkland lost his
life from breaking his leg on a stand
in the park, September 1633. It was
from Theobalds that Charles set outto put
himself at the head of his army, Feb. 1642.
In 1650 the Parliamentary Commissioners
made a survey of the palace and park :
they reported that the palace was an ex
ceUent building, in good repair, and by no
means fit to be demoUshed. It was how
ever dismantled, and the greater part
razed, the proceeds of the materials being
appropriated to the army. The park they
state was 2508 acres in extent, and they
value the timber in it at £7259, exclusive
of 15,608 trees set apart for the navy and
others which had already been cut down.
Immediately after the Restoration,
Charles II. made a grant of Theobalds to
George Monk, Earl of Albemarle, on the
death of whose son, without male issue, in
1687,it reverted to the Crown. WiUiam III.
granted thepalace andparktohisfaro-arite
Bentinck, Earl of Portland, whose grand
son, the Duke of Portland, sold it in 1762
to Mr. George Prescott for £75,000, ex
clusive of the timber. The manor of
Theobalds passed to Ralph Duke of
Montagu, who married the Duke of
Albemarle's widow. It was sold by John
Duke of Montagu to Mrs. Letitia Thorn-
hill, from whom it passed by marriage to
the Cromwell family, and was held at his

death in 1821 by Oliver Cromwell, the
last male descendant of the great Pro
tector. It is now held by the executors
of Thos. A. RusseU, Esq.
The last vestiges of the palace were
destroyed by Mr. Prescott in 1765, and
the present Theobalds Square erected on
the site. At that time there remained,
among others, the room in which James was
said to have died. The Stables, " which
stood near the road leading from Waltham
Cross to Cheshunt," included " on the W.
side of the road a camel stable, 63 ft. in
length ; * and on the E. side two stables,
each 119 ft., and a barn 163 ft. in length."!
Adjoining them was an almshouse, also
erected by Lord Burleigh, for " aged and
over-worn captains, gentlemen by birth
and calling," which was left standing tUl
1812. The present Theobalds Park is the seat
of Alderman James Cotton, M.P. (Lord
Mayor, 1875-6). The house — a good red
brick mansion — was built by George
Prescott, Esq., 1765-70. It stands on
rising ground about IJ m. S.W. of the
palace of Lord Burleigh and King James.
The park proper is only about 200 acres,
but the enclosed estate is very extensive ;
there are roads and walks through it
from Enfield Chase to Cheshunt ch., and
also from Waltham Cross. Southey,
writing in 1818,J says, " There stUl exists,
though in decay, the moss walk, which
formerly made part of the gardens of
Theobalds. . . . About 30 years ago, and
before the storm had made a breach
through the old elms by which it was
overshadowed, we remember this singular
walk in its beauty ; — the only remains of
all which rendered Theobalds the favourite
palace of two succeeding sovereigns. " In
Gough's day there were left " a walk of
abeles, between two waUs, a circular
summer-house, and traces of the park-
waU." Dr. Isaac Watts resided for some
years in the house of Sir Thomas Abney
at Theobalds (before Sir Thomas removed
* The naturalization of the camel was a favourite
notion of the age. James also sought to rear silk
worms here : in the Exchequer Accounts is an
order for the payment of £50, Jan. 23, 1618,
to "Munten Jeninge, keeper of his Majesty's
house and gardens at Theobalds .... for making
a place for his Majesty's silk worms, and for
making provision of mulberry leaveB for them."
t Lysons.
X Quarterly Review, vol. xix., p. 18.

THEYDON.

608

THEYDON.

to - Abney Park, Stoke Newington). The
moss-walk and overhanging elms (even
then the chief reUcs of Burleigh's famous
grounds) came close to Sir Thos. Abney's
garden, and within a few yards of the
entrance to the walk was a " summer-
house, which, 50 years after Watts's
death, was shown as the place in which he
had composed many of his works." The
exterior of Theobalds is engraved in the
Gentleman's Magazine, Feb. 1836 ; and at
Hinton St. George (the seat of Earl Poulett)
is a view of the interior by Poelemberg.
The house was no doubt a conspicuous
object. Izaak Walton makes Auceps say,
" I shall by your favour bear you com
pany as far as Theobalds ; " and Piscator
ends his discourse, " I must in manners
break off, for I see Theobald's House." *
THEYDON, Essex, (pron. Thoy-
don,) the name of three adjoining pa
rishes lying on the S. and E. of Epping,
between it and the Ongar road. In A.-S.
charters the name is Thegndun (Thane's
HiU), in Domesday (the manors being
still undivided) it is Tai/ndena. It is a
pleasant district, undulating, well wooded,
well cultivated, drained by the Uttle river
Roding and its runnels, and thinly popu
lated. Theydon Bois (pr. Thoydon Boys),
the smaUest of the three parishes, is about
2 m. S. by E. of Epping : the Theydon
Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Ongar branch),
15f m. from Liverpool Street, is at
Theydon Gate, £ m. E. of the ch. It is
a scattered agric. par. of 798 inh., partly
within the precincts of Epping Forest,
whence the distinctive name, Bois. They
don Gate indicates the entrance to the
forest. Theydon manor belonged to Waltham
Abbey from the reign of Henry III,
to the Dissolution. It has since been
held by private persons, and has no his
tory. The vill. , such as it is, lies for the
most part about a broad pleasant green,
with a long avenue on the 1., and oak-
bordered lanes running from it on all
sides. W. of Theydon Green is the
Church (St. Mary), a plain, commonplace,
red-brick and stone building, E.E. in style,
erected here in 1852, as a more convenient
* Complete Angler, chap. i.

site than that of the old ch. It is prettily
situated, and, standing on high ground,
its octagonal tower and slate spire form a
good landmark for the viUage. The old
ch. was about 1 m. S., at the corner of
a farm-road, on the rt. of the lane to
Abridge : the gables and chimneys of the
large old-fashioned, red-brick farmhouse
by the ch.-yard wiU guide the stranger
to the spot. Not a trace of the ch. is
left ; the neglected ch.-yard is overgrown
with nettles ; the tombs and gravestones
are covered with lichens, broken and
ruinous. Theydon Hall is the seat of R.
H. C. Pallett, Esq.
Theydon Geknon (pr. Thoydon Gar-
non), adjoining Theydon Bois on the N.
and E., owes its distinctive name to having
belonged to the Norman Gernons. Pop.
1346; but of these 638 were in the eccl.
dist. of Coopersale, and 135 in the Epping
Union workhouse.
The old manor-house, J m. N. by W. of
the ch. , now a farm-house, is known as
Garnish Hall, a corruption no doubt of
Gernon's Hall. The Church (All Saints)
is in the S. part of the par., near Hobb's
Cross, on the Abridge and Epping road.
To reach it from Theydon Stat., turn S.
and take the first lane on the 1., a
charming walk of a mile along green
and woody lanes. Passing Theydon
Place (an old-fashioned, low, red-brick
house, set amidst taU trees, the greenest
of smooth-shaven lawns, and brightest
of flowers), on the 1. is a long, narrow
Ume avenue leading to the ch. door. The
ch. is mostly of the Perp. period, but
restored in 1863, when several new win
dows were inserted. The tall, sturdy,
battlemented brick tower, with angle
turret, was, according to a now illegible
insc. on it, erected 1520, by means of a
bequest of Aid. Sir John Crosby, of Crosby
HaU, Bishopsgate Street. Rt. and 1. of
the altar are corresponding monts. , with
small brasses and labels (or the places
where they have been). On 1., Sir Wm.
Fitzwiluam (d. 1570) and wife Anne, brass
with kneeling effigies of the knight in
armour, girt with sword and spurs, and
attended by 2 sons, and the lady (a
daughter of Sir Wm. Sidney of Penshurst)
kneeling, arms and label, with 3
daughters. Over this is a smaU brass
of Alleyn, wife of John Branch, cit. and
merchant of London, d. 1567. N. of the

THEYDON.

609

THORPE.

chancel is a brats, now mural, in good
condition and very well engraved, of Wm.
Ryrkeby, rector of the par., circ. 1458.
In the upper part of the E. window is
some painted glass. Obs. in the ch.-yard
a picturesque half-timber cottage with
pargetted plaster. Robert Fabyan, the
chronicler, had a house here. In his
will, dated 11th June, 1511, he directs
that if he died " at my mansion caUed
Halstedys, my corpse [shall be] buried
atwene my pewe and the high awter
within the qwere of the pari sshe churche
of Alhalowen of Theydon Gardon." No
place named Halsteds is now known here,
nor is any mentioned in Morant ; and in
1810 Sir Henry Ellis could discover no
tradition of any plot of ground bearing
the name, nor in the parish registers, rent
rolls, or muniments, any reference to a
family named Fabyan. The old chronicler
was buried in St. Michael's ch., Cornhill ;
but his mont. was already "gone" when
Stow wrote his Survey of London at the
close of the 16th cent.
At Coopcrsale hamlet, 2 m. N., is
a district ch. (St. Alban's) built, with
the adjacent parsonage, by Miss A.
Houblon. Coopersale — a corruption, it
has been suggested, of Cooper's Hall —
the large mansion now better known as
Coopersale House (Mrs. Houblon), at the
N end of the par., has been altered and
modernized', but retains some of the old
painted ceilings. Coopersale Hall (Wm.
WiUett, Esq.), 1 m. N.W. of the ch ;
Gaynes Park (T. C. Marsh, Esq.), 2 m.
N, and Theydon Place (J. H. Smee, Esq.),
are the other seats.
Theydon Mount (pop. 184) Ues E. of
Theydon Gernon, between it and Staple
ford Tawney. It is a pleasant country,
but there is no viUage, not even a " pub
Uc." The only thing to notice is Hill
Hall, the property of Sir W. Bowyer
Smijth, Bart., and now the residence of J.
Fleming, Esq. Hill Hall was commenced
by Elizabeth's famous secretary, Sir
Thomas Smith, who came into possession
of the estate by his marriage with PHlippa,
react of Sir John Hampden, its former
owner. Sir Thomas left the house un
finished at his death, 1576, but made pro
vision in his will for its completion. It is
a large quadrangular edifice, of the classic
style then coming into vogue ; red brick
with stone dressings ; engaged columns

and pediment in principal front, and a
balustered parapet running all round.
Some of the rooms are large ; the spacious
hall has a gallery on one side, and an
ornamental stucco ceiling, and is hung
with arms, armour, and family portraits.
The great staircase is also noteworthy.
In one of the bedrooms is a recess like a
very large cupboard, which tradition (of
recent growth) says was a hiding-place.
lt .was discovered some 40 years since,
and is curious as retaining on the wall
the original " water-work," like that Fal-
staff commended to Hostess Quickly (King
Henry IV., part ii., act ii., sc. 2). This,
as a label informs you, represents " the
Destruction of Sennacherib and his Host. "
Some of the other rooms retain their old
" fly-bitten tapestries." Hill Hall stands
on high ground, whence it was named
by Sir Thomas Smith, Mount Hall.
The park is large, finely timbered, and
broken by deep dells. Theydon Mount
Church (St. Michael's) stands in the park
\ m. S.E. of the hall. It is small, of
brick, with tower and short spire, and was
built by the first Sir WilUam Smith (d.
1626) in place of the old ch. injured by
Ughtning. It contains many memorials
of the Smith or Smijth family, including
those of Sir Thomas, the secretary, who is
represented under an arched canopy, and
belauded in a long Latin insc. ; and Sir
William, the builder of the ch.

THORNDON HALL (s
don, Essex).

Horn-

THORPE, Surrey (Dom. Torp),
an agric. vill., midway, about 2 m., be
tween Egham and Chertsey : pop. 590.
Lying in the meadows at the N. foot of
St. Anne's HiU, with the heights termi
nating in Cooper's Hill on the W. and N.,
the Thames bounding it on the E., a
streamlet flowing through the fields, ex
panding into the Flete Pool (a favourite
resort of water-fowl and abounding in
fish) and turning two mills, with broad
green meads on every side, it is just the
quiet, sylvan spot the naturaist, angler,
or artist would delight to spend a brief
holiday in.
The manor belonged to Chertsey Abbey
from its foundation to its suppression.
It was then retained by the Crown
39

THURROCK, LITTLE.

610

THURROCK, WEST.

till 1690, when Elizabeth granted it to
Sir John Wolley, her Latin secretary.
For the past century it has belonged to
the Bennetts. The Church, St. Mary, is
cruciform, of flint and chalk ; Dec, ex
cept the ivy-clad tower, which is 16th
cent, brick. It was carefully restored in
1854, and a wooden screen added. The
chancel window has good Dec. tracery ;
most of the windows are filled with
modern painted glass. In the chancel
are a piscina, credence, and sedilia. Obs.
the very curious late brass, within marble
frame, on S. wall of chancel, of William
Denham, goldsmith, of London, d. 1583,
his wife and 13 children, 4 sons and 9
daughters. [Was he grandfather, or any
connection, of the author of Cooper's
Hill ? The poet's father, as well as him
self, lived at Egham.] Of the older
brasses which were in the transept only
fragments remain. There are several
mural monts., chiefly to the Bennetts ;
one has on it the verses written by
Sterne, when " apprehensive " of the loss
of a ' • dear friend " Eliza or Lady
James),* and commencing, " Columns
and laboured urns but vainly show.''
Thorpe Place (Rev. H. Leigh Ben
nett), built about 1800, on the site of
the old manor-house, stands in a small
but good park. The other seats are
Thorpe Lee (J. C. Blackett, Esq.), at the
Egham end of the par. ; Thorpe House
(Hon. Mrs. Scott) ; and Eastley End (H.
Ritchie, Esq.) Sir Edw. Nicholas, Secre
tary of State to Charles I., had a house
at Thorpe, to which, in a letter dated
Aug. 31, 1641, he begs the King's per
mission to remove on account of " ye
sickness and small pox very rife in
London."
THURROCK, GRAYS, Essex (see
Grays). THURROCK, LITTLE, Essex,
on the 1. bank of the Thames, and on the
road to West Tilbury, 1 m. E. of the
Grays Stat, of the L. and Southend Rly.
Pop. 321.
The village stands on elevated ground
overlooking Thurrock and Chadwell
Marshes, and from many parts there are
" See his Letter to his Daughter, April 9, 1767.

good views over the Thames. The vill.
itself has little to interest. The occupa
tions are agricultural ; there are consider
able arable farms ; the marshes afford
pasture ; and vegetables, and especially
peas, are largely grown for the London
market. There are also extensive brick
fields and chalk pits. Here, at Chadwell,
and at East Tilbury, are the chalk shafts
and caverns known as Cunobeline's Gold
Mines and Daneholes, and described
under Chadwell St. Mary, p. 80.
Little Thurrock ch. (St. Mary) is a plain
little village ch., comprising nave and
chancel under one roof, much altered,
and of no marked character or interest.

THURROCK, WEST, Essex, on
the 1. bank of the Thame3, \\ m. W.from
the Grays Stat., 3 m. E. from the Purfleet
Stat, of the Tilbury and Southend line,
Grt. E. Rly., 19 m. from London. Pop.,
exclusive of Purfleet garrison and Corn
wall Reformatory ship, 546.
The vill. consists of a few cottages,
some wooden, all poor, clustered by the
vicarage and the Old Ship inn, or scattered
along the road from Grays to Purfleet.
Standing apart are several well-to-do
farms. The ch. will be noticed by every
traveller on the rly., seated solitary by
the river-side, half a mile from* the vill.,
the way to it being across a dreary marsh
¦ — in summer a tolerable walk, but in
winter the very picture of desolation. It
was not, however, always so lonely. By
it was a reUgious house, traces of which
have been found, and also, we are informed,
flint foundations of ordinary dwellings.
Here, by the ch., was the last gathering-
place of the pilgrims to Canterbury from
the eastern counties, previous to crossing
by the ferry into Kent. The Church
(St. Clement) stands on a bed of gravel i
it was formerly surrounded by a stout
flint wall, but flints becoming very dear
some five-and-thirty years ago, the
churchwarden pulled down the wall, sold
the flints, and put up instead a flimsy
fence. The ch. is built of flint and chalk.
A tablet on the front of the tower is said
to bear the date 1040. but it is too much
weatherworn to be now decipherable
from below. If the date be correctly
given, it would seem to carry back the
buUding to before the Conquest (and this

THURROCK, WEST.

611

TILBURY, EAST.

would be of farther interest as illustrating
the date of the river wall, which must
have been constructed before the church).
But no carving is left of Norman date,
and the oldest part of the building ap
pears to be E.E. The ch. consists of a
nave and S. aisle, chancel, with an ugly
modern south chapel, and a massive W.
towei-, chiefly of chalk and flint in regular
courses, but with a modern upper storey
of brick.
The church has been patched and
disfigured both inside and out, yet suf
fered to become almost ruinous. The
nave has been repaired and the white
wash removed, but the walls show cracks,
the mortar is crumbling away, and the
whole looks as though it would fall down
before one of the gales which sweep with
such force across the river here. Till
lately the interior afforded a curious illus
tration of churchwardens' taste. Walls,
arches, and pillars were all covered
thickly with whitewash, and, by way of
relieving the monotony, the capitals and
mouldings of the columns were washed
over with lampblack. There is a tradi
tion that it was first done by way of
putting the church into mourning for the
Princess Charlotte, but if so it was not
removed when the occasion was past. In
1865 the nave columns were purified, but
those of the chancel remain untouched,
and have a most absurd effect. Once the
capitals were otherwise decorated. On
carefuUy removing the white and black
washes, it was found that they had been
covered with gilding — perhaps by pil
grims. Traces of paintings were also
found on the waUs, but no figure could
be made out. S. of the chancel is a good
double piscina. The E. window is early
Dec. of rather pecuUar and very good
tracery, but sadly weatherworn outside.
The communion table appears to be the
original one, of oak. No mont. now re
mains in the ch., but on the floor of the
N. chapel Ue the life-sized alabaster
effigies of a knight in armour (16th cent.)
and his wife : supposed to be of the Des-
borough family. They are in wonderful
preservation considering the perils to
which they have been exposed. The
mont. itself being destroyed, a local
magnate thought the two effigies would
be more serviceable as ornaments to his
house than in the ch. They were taken

away, therefore, and for years formed
the supporters of the gateway of High
House (2 m. nearer Purfleet). Some years
ago they were restored to the ch. The
brass of Humphrey Heies, 1584, men
tioned by Haines as lost, and that of his
son Humphrey, 1585, being loose, were
removed to the vicarage for safety. That
of Heies's daughter, Kath. Redinge, 1591,
is lost. By the altar is a stone with the
place of a half effigy of a priest, and
below it a very elegant cross, but the
brasses are gone.
TILBURY, EAST, Essex, on the
1. bank of the Thames, about 3 m. below
Tilbury Fort, and 1£ S.E. from the Low
Street Stat. (24 m. from London) of the
Southend Rly., which is in this par. Pop.
650. Inn, Ship.
East Tilbury is curiously out-of-the-
way and old-world like. It lies on »
projecting point of land which divides
the Gravesend and Lower Hope reaches
of the Thames, and overlooks the Tilbury
Marshes. The ch. stands at the extremity
of the street, which leads only to the
river wall and fort, lonely and exposed to
the keen winds sweeping over these
dreary marshes. Of old the town — for
so it was styled in the 14th cent. — was
exposed to worse foes than the winter's
winds. Thus in 1402, Henry IV., "con
sidering the great losses, damages, and
destructions which have happened in
times past to the same town, by the
arrival of French and other enemies
there; and dreading that greater may
happen in process of time, if no remedy
be applied, both there and in the neigh
bourhood — especially as there is no other
landing place on that side for a great
space," — grants to his " beloved Ueges, tha
men of the town of East Tilbury in the
county of Essex," permission to " fortify
the said town " by means of a sea wall of
earth and other works, " that our enemies
sailing before the said town, when they
shall have knowledge of the said fortifi
cation, may henceforth more fear and
avoid entering the waters of the Thames
in warlike manner." * This is the earliest
mention of a fortification at East Tilbury.

* Rymer, Fcedera, vol. viii., p. 271 ; Cruden,
Hist. 6f Gravesend, p. 122.

TILBURY, EAST.

612

TILBURY FORT.

It has never since been without one, but
as late as the reign of Charles II. the
Dutch, the last enemy who sailed up the
Thames with warlike intent, battered
down the tower of East Tilbury ch., but
did Uttle harm to the town or fortress.
It was on their second ascent up the
Thames, July 1667, that the Dutch de
stroyed the ch. tower, as on the first they
did not reach higher than Shellhaven, 6
m. below East Tilbury. In place of the
old block-house a more regular battery
was then built, but for many years Uttle
attention was given to it. Now, however,
a new and much larger fort has been con
structed at Coalhouse Point, as part of a
comprehensive system of works for the
defence of the Thames. The other forts
and outworks are at Tilbury Fort and
West Tilbury, on this side of the river,
and at Hope Point, Cliff Creek, Shorne
Mead, and Milton, on the opposite shore.
The forts will be of great strength, and
provided with guns of immense power,
which will have the most approved ap
pliances for working, and act in connec
tion with a carefully arranged scheme of
submarine mines, or torpedoes. The works
at Coalhouse Point are not completed, but
the guns are in position.
It is commonly said that it was at East
Tilbury St. Cedd, the apostle of the East
Saxons, founded a religious house and
buUt a. church, but West Tilbury is the
more probable site. (See Tilbury, West ;
Chadwell.) East Tilbury Church (St.
Margaret) is a rude Dec. building, much
patched, and the river-side waU strangely
worn by exposure to storms. It com
prises nave, north aisle, and chancel, with
a makeshift tower, and possesses no fea
ture of interest.
Near East Tilbury are some of the
caverns in the chalk, known as Dane-
holes, of which other and more remark
able examples occur in the neighbouring
parishes of Little and West Thurrock and
ChadweU, and in the chalk districts on
the other side of the Thames, and which
are described under Chadwell. Gervase
of Tilbury (temp. Henry II. and John),
Marshal of the kingdom of Aries, and
author of the ' Otia ImperiaUa,' written
for the amusement of the Emperor Otho,
was a native of Tilbury, but whether of
East or West Tilbury is not known, but
it may well have been the former, as we

have seen that East Tilbury was at an
early date a town of some consequence.
TILBURY FORT, Essex, on the
Thames opposite Gravesend, and in West
Tilbury and Chadwell parishes, is the
chief of the river forts referred to under
Tilbury, East. W. of the fort is the
Tilbury Stat, of the London and Southend
Rly. (22^ m.), connected with which is a
steamboat pier, whence there is a half-
hourly steamboat ferry to Gravesend.
The earliest fortification "by the Thames
side at Tilburye," was erected by Henry
VIII. in 1539, and known as the Hermitage
Bulwark ("Thermitage Bullwerk"). It
was "furnished with ordenaunce and
artillery" — a demi-cannon (30-pounder),
" a French cut-nose saker," a falconet of
brass, and a mortar and other pieces of
iron, 16inaU — with iron, lead, and stone
shot, "bowes of yough," sheaves of livery
arrows, Moorish pikes and black bills, the
garrison being a captain, deputy, porter,
2 "souldeors," and 4 gunners. When
the Armada threatened invasion, TUbury
Blockhouse was found to be sadly out of
order. Under Federico GiambeUi, a Man-
tuan engineer, who had already won fame
at the siege of Antwerp, and had been
taken into the service of Elizabeth, the
works were hastily repaired. . As soon
as the danger was past, GiambeUi was
commissioned to rebuild the fort on the
most approved principles — his salary being
6s. 8d. a day. The new fort was a penta
gonal or star fort, with spreading bastions,
rampart, glacis, moat, and counterscarp,
in which Henry's fort was enclosed as
the citadel.* GiambeUi's fort served as
the basis for all subsequent works till the
recent remodelling.
The most important modification took
place after the panic caused by the Dutch
sailing up the Thames in 1667. The
Dutch Admiral did not reach Tilbury
Fort, but he would have met little re
sistance if he had. From a survey made
in 1632, and a memorial of the com
mander, it appeared that through neglect
the fort had fallen into disrepair, the
counterscarp had been demolished, and
* A copy of the original plan by GiambeUi (there
called Genibelli) is in the Report on Arrangements
for Internal Defence of Great Britain when Spain
projected its Invasion, 8vo, 1798.

TILBURY FORT.

613

TILBURY, WEST.

the moat filled up, and in consequence
" the beasts and cattle from the adjoining
common do frequently come into the forti
fications and do exceedingly annoy the
same." The reconstruction of the fort
was entrusted to a foreigner, Sir Bernard
de Gomme, under Sir Martin Beckman as
engineer-in-chief, who submitted as alter
native plans a parallelogram and a penta
gon, when the latter was adopted, perhaps
as requiring less interference with the
existing works. The work did not, how
ever, advance very rapidly. Evelyn in
1672 " went over to see the new-begun
fort of Tilbury," and he regarded it as " a
royal work indeede, and such as wUl one
day bridle a greate Citty to the purpose
before they are aware."* The date on
the well-known gateway by the river is
1682, but the works were not finished in
1687, as we learn from various orders
issued by the Master-General of the Ord
nance in that year for the facing of
raveUns and the completion of the North
redout and other works. With subsequent
extensions and modifications, these works
remained to our own day. One of the
most noteworthy of the outer defences,
evidently imitated from the procedure of
the Dutch engineers, was the formation
of a system of sluices, by which the level
country aTound the fort could be laid under
water at the wiU of the commander.
The recent works, which wUl make this
probably the strongest fortress of its class
in the country, were taken in hand in
1867, in pursuance of a recommendation
of the Fortification Committee, and ac
cording to a plan of Col. Jervois, drawn
up under the direction of General Sir J.
F. Burgoyne. But the rapid progress in
the construction of heavy artillery on the
one hand, and armour-plated ships on the
other, has led to important modifications.
As now being carried out, Tilbury Fort
wiR certainly retain its old eminence.
And under the new scheme for the Mobi
lization of the Army (Dec. 1875), it will
be not merely as now the head-quarters
for the river defences, but the seat of
command for the garrison corps for this
district— having behind it the magazines
of Purfleet and the arsenals of Woolwich,
whilst West Tilbury will be the camp of
the Metropolitan Volunteers.

* Evelyn, Diary, 21 March, 1672.

The chapel in Tilbury Fort, erected in
the reign of Elizabeth, but which for 150
years had been desecrated — its last use
being as a reading and billiard room — wan
restored by the War Office, and re-opened
by the Bp. of Rochester in Oct. 1870.
Since the opening of the rly. stat., many
houses have been built about it, and a
regular half -hour ferry is maintained with
Gravesend. It was by Tilbury Fort that
the author of ' Robinson Crusoe ' esta
bUshed a pantile factory, he himself living
in a house by the river. He was unsuc
cessful, and one of the scurrilous parodies
on ' The True Born Englishman ' asserts
that " Justices forc'd him to pay his slaves,
Who, subjects to a worse than Pharaoh's law,
Made bricks without due food instead of straw. "
But De Foe, whilst complaining bitterly
of his failure, by which he says he lost
£3000, maintains his integrity, and claims
credit for introducing into the country a
new, and what but for the opposition he
met with would have been a most ser
viceable, manufacture. " Before violence,
injury, and barbarous treatment demo-
Ushed him and his undertaking, he em
ployed," he says, " a hundred poor people
in making pantiles — a manufacture before
always bought in Holland." *
TILBURY, WEST, Essex, If m.
N. of Tilbury Fort, about 2 m. N.W. of
East Tilbury, and f m. W. of the Low
Street Stat, of the Southend Rly. Pop.
322. Inn, King's Head.
West Tilbury is a quiet, rustic, and not
unpicturesque Uttle agricultural village,
on the low ridge of chalk Mils overlooking
Tilbury Marsh. The Church (St. James),
the only building of consequence, is a
small weather-beaten E.E. fabric, con
sisting of nave and chancel, and low square
W. tower and spire, in which is a peal of
5 bells. Laud, when D.D., held the living
of West TUbury.f
This no doubt is the " Tilaburg . . .
in ripa Tamensis" at which St. Cedd,
the apostle of the East Saxons, founded
one of his two religious houses, dwelt and
* True Born Huguenot, 1703, p. 14 ; Defoe's
Review, No. 9 : quoted in Rambles by Rivers ; the
Thames, vol. ii., p. 237.
t Hook, Lives of the Abps. of Canterbury, vol.
vi., p. 14.

TITSEY.

614

TOOTING.

taught, in conjunction with his brother
St. Ceadda or Chad.* (See Chadwell
St. Mary.) Before his time, however,
there was a Roman settlement here, as
various remains of that people have at
different times been exhumed, and in
carrying the railway across here a ceme
tery was cut through which was pro
nounced to be Roman. Near the ch. are
traces of a camp, which some consider
Roman, though others regard them as
vestiges of the camp of Elizabeth.
The troops coUected from the eastern
counties in anticipation of the arrival of
the Armada were certainly encamped on
the vantage-ground about the ch., whence
they would have a wide outlook seaward,
and are so shown on the contemporary
chart copied for the Report on the Mea
sures of Defence adopted in 1588, pub
lished by the Government in 1798. The
camp was formed towards the end of
July 1588, under the Earl of Leicester
as general-in-chief. On the 8th of August
Elizabeth landed, under aU military
honours, at Tilbury Fort, and was escorted
to the camp by 1000 horse and 2000 foot,
and a great array of nobles and gentle
men. Next morning, "mounted on a
stately steed," truncheon in hand, and
attended only by her lieutenant and
chamberlain, she reviewed her troops, and
addressed them in the spirit-stirring
speech with which every reader of Eng
lish history is familiar. Then, having
dined in the camp, she returned to her
palace. News having arrived of the final
dispersion of the Armada, the camp was
broken up on the 17th of August, Uttle
more than a week after the Queen's visit.
Should another invasion be threatened,
this historic ground is the appointed site
for the Camp of the Metropolitan Volun
teers. (See Tilbury Fort.)
TITSEY, Surrey (Dom. Ticesey),
¦a secluded agricultural vill. near the
eastern extremity of the Surrey Downs,
S.W. of Tatsfield, on the road from Croy
don to Westerham, from which last town
it is about 3 m. N.W. Pop. 225.
Ticlieseye, or Titsey, like Tatsfield, was
owned by the Uvedales in the 14th cen
tury ; was alienated to the Greshams, and
from them went by marriage to the
* Bede, Hist. Ecc, lib. iii., c. 22.

Gowers. The present lord of the manor
is G. W. G. Leveson Gower, Esq. The
old manor-house, as weU as the old ch.,
was taken down, towards the close of the
18th cent., by the last Sir John Gresham,
who erected the present house, Titsey
Place (G. W. Gresham Leveson Gower,
Esq.), on the site. It has since been
greatly altered and added to, and is now
a spacious and stately edifice. In the
Ubrary is a fine portrait by Sir Anthony
More of Sir Thomas Gresham, the founder
of the Royal Exchange. There also are
some other good pictures, wood carvings
from the old house, and various antiqui
ties dug up on the estate.
Nearly opposite Titsey Place is the
Church (St. James). The old ch. puUed
down by Sir John Gresham stood some
200 yards distant, and close to the house.
Gresham's ch., a mean brick building, was
removed, and the present large and hand
some ch. erected by Mr. Gower in 1861,
from the designs of Mr. Pearson. The
new ch. is of Bath stone ; early Dec. in
style, and cruciform. The S. transept is
carried up as a tower to a height of 76 ft.,
and crowned with a stone spire of equal
height. The N. transept serves as a mor
tuary chapel, and contain the monuments
of the Gresham and Gower families, re
moved from the earUer churches. The
ch. is admirably finished and furnished.
From its elevated site and lofty spire,
Titsey ch. is a landmark for miles around.

TITTENHANGER,
London Colney).

Herts (see

TONWELL, Herts (see Bengeo).
TOOTING, LOWER TOOTING,
or TOOTING GRAVENEY, Surrey, on
the Epsom road, between Streatham and
Mitcham, 7 m. from Westminster Bridge,
and a junction stat. of the Tooting, Merton,
and Wimbledon Rly., in connection with
the L. and S.-W. Rly., L. B. and S. C. Rly.,
and L. C. and D. Rly. Pop. 2327.
Early topographers were puzzled by the
name (Dom. Totinges). It is no doubt
due to the settlement here of a branch of
the Saxon or Teutonic family of the
Totingas. * In legal documents the place
* Kemble, Cod. Dipl. 2Evi Sax., Nos. 363, 785.
Comp. Maine, Early Hist, of Institutions, Lect. iii.,
p. 82 ; and Freeman, Comp. Politics.

TOOTING.

615

TOTTENHAM.

is designated Tooting Graveney (properly
Gravenell), the addition being derived
from a family of that name who held the
manor, with other property, under the
Abbot of Chertsey, in the 12th and 13th
cents. The manor was afterwards held
by the Castellos, Ladelowes, and Dymocks.
In 1593 it was alienated to James Harring
ton, and by him transferred to Sir Henry
Maynard, secretary to Lord Burleigh.
WilUam, the eldest son, was advanced to
the peerage, but did not inherit Tooting,
which was conveyed to the second son,
Sir John Maynard (not, as sometimes
stated, the famous lawyer and member of
the Long ParUament, who lived to serve in
the Convention 1689, whereas this Sir
John Maynard died 40 years before).
From the Maynards the manor passed by
marriage to Sir Edward Honeywood ;
afterwards to Whichcote, Bateman, Lewis,
Rice, Piatt, Pole, Baring, Thomas, and is
now held by W. J. Thompson, Esq.
Tooting is a region of viUas and nursery
gardens, very pleasant, and, except the
Common, very commonplace. Tooting
Graveney Common, of 63 acres, runs into
Tooting-Bec Common of 155 acres, and
that adjoins Streatham Common of 66
acres, making together a broad open space
that is a great deUght to London holiday-
makers, as well as to the inhabitants of
Tooting and Streatham. The Lower Com
mon is overgrown with gorse, and in parts
somewhat moist. The Upper Common
affords fine views. The whole was in 1875
dedicated to pubUc use, and placed under
the control of the Metropolitan Board of
Works. Around the Common are several good
old mansions with noble trees in the
grounds ; but the greater part of the houses
are modern. Here for a time Sir Richard
Blackmore, the City physician and bard,
had his country house :
" Blackmore himself, for any grand effort
Would drink and doze at Tooting or Earl's
Court."*
Tooting Church (St. Nicholas) was
erected in 1822, from the designs of Mr.
Atkinson, and altered and re-consecrated
in 1833. The ch. which it displaced was
a smaU building with a low circular
tower. The present buUding is of white
brick, Perp. of a poor type, and has a W.

Pope ; and see Hughes's Letters, vol. i., p. 224.

tower of 3 stages with buttresses and pin
nacles. It was enlarged in 1873 by the
addition of a transept and larger chancel.
In it are some monts. removed from the
old ch. The most noteworthy is of Sir
John Hepdon, d. 1670, twice envoy to the
Emperor of Russia, and frequently em
ployed in negotiations for Charles I. and
Charles II., " for whose interest he spared
neither purse nor person, though to the
prejudice of his own." In the ch.-yard
are the tombs of Sir John Maynard, K.B.,
d. 1658. and of his only son, Sir John
Maynard, Knt., d. 1664. The Independent
Meeting is said to have been founded by
Daniel Defoe, who, early in the reign of
William III., formed the first body of
members into a church. Dr. Oldfield was
the first minister. Dr. Henry Miles,
F.R.S., distinguished in his day by his
attainments in natural philosophy, was
pastor from 1726 till his death in 1763.
Upper Tooting, N.W. of Lower Toot
ing, on the W. of Tooting-Bec Common,
belongs to Streatham par. (See notice
of Tooting-Bec manor under STREAT
HAM.) It was formed into an eccl. dist.
in 1855. The Church, of the Holy Trinity,
is a neat Gothic building erected in 1854.
Here was an alien priory, or cell. Uppi-r
Tooting contains several mansions and
numerous villas. The large red brick
EUzabethan structure in Burnt wood Lane,
on the edge of Wandsworth Common,
is the Surrey County Lunatic Asylum,
erected in 1840 from the designs of Mr.
W. Moseley. It has accommodation for
nearly 1000 inmates.

TOTTENHAM, or TOTTENHAM
HIGH CROSS, Middx. (Dom. Toteham),
Ues between Stamford Hill and Edmon
ton, on the Ware and Hertford road, 4£
m. from Shoreditch ch. Rly. Stats., Grt.
E. Rly., Tottenham, High Cross Lane, and
Park Lane, on the Cambridge line ; Seven
Sisters, Bruce Grove, and White Hart
Lane, on the Enfield branch : Grt. N. Rly.,
Wood Green; Midland (South Totten
ham and Hampstead br.), South Tot
tenham. Pop. of par. 22,809 (since greatly
increased), but this includes the eccl.
districts of Holy Trinity, Tottenham Green
(and within the town), 7366 ; St. Paul's,
Park Lane (at the N. end of the town),
3487 ; St. Ann's, Hanger Lane (now St.

TOTTENHAM.

616

TOTTENHAM.

Ann's Road), 4724, and St. Michael's,
Wood Green, 5011.
The parish is of great size, extending
for 2J m. along the highroad, and being
nearly 16 m. in circuit. The river Lea
forms its eastern boundary, and divides it
from Essex. The New River winds along
its western side, and the little Muswell
brook — the Mouse, Mose, or, as it is now
called, tbe Moselle river — crosses the
par. from W. to E., dividing it into two
unequal portions. The legal division of
the par. is into 4 wards — the Lower Ward,
the Middle Ward, High Cross Ward, and
Wood Green Ward.
The etymology of Tottenham has been
much discussed. It is probably a patrony
mic, Toting, or Toding, with the suffix
ham, home ; but it may be from tot, an
elevation, the site being a ridge of high
ground overlooking the marshes which
border the Lea.
The adjunct High Cross, of old more
commonly used than now, was given from
the Cross which, from an unknown anti
quity, has stood on the E. of the road near
the centre of the town. It has been com
monly assumed that it was an Eleanor
cross (see Waltham Cross), but Totten
ham was not one of the places where the
corpse of Queen Eleanor rested, and the
cross was probably merely one of the way
side crosses once common in the towns
and villages of England : there is no
mention of a market at Tottenham, and
it was not therefore a market-cross.
About 1580 it was merely a column of
wood capped with a square sheet of lead
to shoot the water off every way. Norden,
ten years later, terms it a wooden cross
lately raised on a little mound of earth.
But both cross and name were of much
more remote date. About 1600, the cross
being decayed, Dean Wood, who lived in
a house on the E. of it, had it taken
down, and erected in its place one of brick,
octagonal at the base, square above,
with a sundial on one of the faces, and
crowned with a crocheted terminal and
weathercock. This was the Tottenliam
High Cross to which the Piscator of Izaak
Walton's ' Complete Angler ' bids his
honest scholar Venator " Welcome." Over
against it then stood the " sweet shady
arbour, which nature herself has woven
with her own fine fingers, — a contexture
of woodbines, sweetbrier, jessamine, and

myrtle, and so interwoven as will secure
us both from the sun's violent heat and
from the approaching shower." Tradi
tion is constant that the arbour was in
the garden of the Swan Inn, and that the
Swan was Walton's usual resting-place
when he came hither to fish. The Swan
remains, but there is no such arbour there
now, and none of that " drink like
nectar " of which master and scholar par
took, and pronounced " too good indeed
for ahybody but us anglers." *
Dean Wood's cross lasted for over two
centuries, when, getting much out of
order, the inhabitants had it repaired,
covered with stucco, and " decorated with
Gothic ornaments," as it now appears.
" Several alterations have taken place in this
part of the country since you left it 
Tottenham. Cross has been cased with a composi
tion resembling stone, and surrounded with an
iron railing ; it makes a very handsome ap
pearance. "+
BedweU, the learned vicar of Totten
ham, and one of the translators of the
Bible, in his curious ' Briefe Description
of the Towne of Tottenham High Crosse,'
1631, — one of the earliest topographies
published, — arranging the "memorable
things " in ternaries, says the " second
ternary for antiquity are the Crosse, the
Hermitage, and the Altar of Saint Loy.
These are all in the great rode, all within
lesse than half a mile. . . . The Crosse
standeth as it were in the middest between
the forementioned cell and the hermi
tage."} When he wrote, "the Offertory
of St. Loy " was " a poor house situate on
the W. side of the (high) rode, a Uttle off
from the bridge." The well was a deep
pit near the highway, always full of
excellent water. The Hermitage and
Chapel of St. Anne was a smaU square
building, with a Uttle sUp of ground
attached to it, running along the high
road, a little N. of the Seven Sisters—
where now stands the Bull inn. The
building was standing within the memory
of persons Uving at Tottenham when
Bedwell was made vicar, 1607.
Tottenham has few historical associa-
* Complete Angler, b. i, chap. 21.
t Memoir of the Early Life of Rt. Hon. Sir
W. H. Maule, by his Niece, Emma Leathley :
Letter to Maule from his brother, dated Edmonton,
July 26, 1809. Maule was a native of Edmonton.
t Bedwell, Briefe Desc. of Tottenham High-
Crosse, 1631, b. ii., chap. 2.

TOTTENHAM.

617

TOTTENHAM.

tions, but the story of the manor is inte
resting on account of its owners. In the
reign of the Confessor it belonged to Earl
Waltheof, son of Siward, Earl of North
umberland, who defeated Macbeth of
Scotland. Waltheof married, 1069,
Judith, niece of the Conqueror, and was
created, 1072, Earl of Northumberland,
Huntingdon, and Northampton ; but
some years after, being charged with
treasonable designs, was beheaded at
Winchester. After the death of Waltheof 's
widow, the manor passed to their eldest
daughter, Maud, who married, 1st, Simon
de St. Liz, u, Norman baron, and 2ndly,
David, son of Malcolm III., King of
Scotland. Henry I. granted to David the
earldom of Huntingdon, with possession
of aU the lands held by Earl Waltheof ;
and the lands and title continued in
his descendants for several generations,
being held, among others, by Malcolm IV.,
King of Scotland, and William the Lion.
In 1184, WiUiam, King of Scotland, gave
the manor to his brother David, Earl of
Angus and Galloway, to whom it was
confirmed, with the earldom of Hunting
don, by King John, in 1199. The Earl of
Angus married Maud, daughter and
heiress of Hugh Earl of Chester, and
their only son John became Earl of
Chester and Huntingdon, and married
Helen, daughter of LleweUin, Prince of
Wales, by whom he is said to have been
poisoned in 1237. Shortly after his
death his widow married Robert de
Quincy, a younger brother of Roger, the
last Earl of Winchelsea of that family.
She retained possession of the manor tiU
1254, when extent was taken of the lands
of " Helen, formerly the wife of John
Earl of Chester, to the intent that they
might be divided between Robert de Brus,
John de BaUol, and Henry de Hastings, as
co-heirs of the said Earl "—Brus having
married the Earl's sister Isabel, Baliol
the daughter of bis sister Margaret, and
Hastings his sister Ada.
The manor of Tottenham was now
divided into three distinct manors, each
bearing the name of its owner. Sub-
manors were subsequently formed from
them, but with these we have no immedi
ate concern.
The portion assigned to Robert de Brus
has ever since been designated Brus or
Bruce Manor. Robert de Brus is the

Robert Bruce who was competitor with
John BaUol for the throne of Scotland,
when Edward I. as arbitrator, decided,
1292, in favour of Baliol. Brus gave the
manor for life to his younger son Richard,
who died 1287, before his father. Robert
Earl of Annandale, and Carrick, the elder
son, had accompanied Edward I. to the
Holy Land in 1269, and settled in Eng
land on his return. To him the manor
passed on the death of his brother, and he
is believed to have made the manor-house,
thence called Brus or Bruce Castle, his
residence. On his death in 1303, his
son Robert — the Bruce of Scottish history
— succeeded as his heir. Three years
later Bruce was crowned King of Scotland.
Edward I. at once seized his English
estates, and the connection of Tottenham
with the Bruses terminated.
The manor of Bruses remained in the
Crown, leases for life of parts, or of the
whole, being granted to various persons,
till 1376, when it was granted in fee to
Edmund de Cheshunte, one of the King's
falconers, he having already (1374) re
ceived a lease of it for life. It was sold
in 1400, by his son, Robert de Cheshunte,
alias Fauconer, to John Walden, on the
death of whose widow, Idonea, in 1429. it
passed to John Gedeney, alderman of
London, by whom all the manors were
reunited. The manor of Baliol was seized by
Edward I. on the renunciation of feudal
homage by John BaUol, King of Scotland,
1295, and granted to John Duke of Brit
tany and Earl of Cornwall. Reverting to
the Crown on his death, or shortly after,
it was given, in 1337, by Edward III. to
William Dawbeney, and came to be known
as Dawbeney 's Manor. In 1377 it was
held by John Cavendish; in 1391 by
John Northampton ; in 1409 it passed to
WilUam Cumberton ; and in 1449 Aid.
Gedeney died seised of this with the other
Tottenham manors.
Hastings Manor, the third portion of
the original manor of Tottenham, de
scended to Lawrence de Hastings, who in
1339 was declared heir to the earldom of
Pembroke, and the manor received from
him the name of Pembrokes. On the
death of Joanna, widow of his grandson,
in 1401, the manor passed to Roger
Walden, Bp. of London and Lord Trea
surer ; and from him to Aid. Gedeney.

TOTTENHAM.

618

TOTTENHAM.

The manors thus reunited have since
remained in the same hands, but the
ownership has been many times trans
ferred. On the death of Aid. Gedeney's
widow in 1462, they passed to her son, by
a former husband, John Turnant, whose
daughter, Thomasina, carried them by
marriage to Sir John Risley, on whose
death without heirs they escheated to the
Crown. Henry VIII., in 1514, granted
them to Sir Wm. Compton, whose heir,
Lord Compton, mortgaged them in 1600 ;
and in 1605 they were purchased of the
mortgagee by Thomas Earl of Dorset.
They were transferred in 1625 by Edward
Earl of Dorset to Hugh and Thomas
Audley, who the next year sold them to
Hugh Lord Colerane. They remained in
the Colerane family tiU the death of
Henry Lord Colerane, the antiquary and
collector, in 1749.* Having no issue
male, Lord Colerane bequeathed the
manors to his daughter Henrietta, born
in Italy in 1745 of Mrs. Duplessis, on her
reaching the age of 21. She being an
alien, the manors escheated to the Crown,
but they were restored to her on her
marriage with James Townsend, alderman
of London. Their son, Henry Hare
Townsend, sold them in 1792 to Thomas
Smith of Gray's Inn, and he in 1805 to
Sir Wm. Curtis, Bart. The present lord
is Wm. Curtis, Esq.f
Lands in these manors descend to the
youngest son. In default of male issue
the daughters are coheirs.
Mockings was a sub-manor formed out
of Bruses, lying N. of the highroad, and
S. of Marsh Lane. Granted to Richard
Spigurnell, it was sold by him to John
Mocking, who died seised of it in 1347 ;
as did John Mocking the younger in 1360.
It afterwards passed to the Legets, and
was reunited to the other manors by Aid.
Gedeney. The moated manor-house stood
on the S. side of Marsh Lane, about \ m.
from the highroad. Norden describes it
as "an auncient house of the Lord

* A good half-length portrait of Henry Lord
Colerane is in the collection of the Society of
Antiquaries at Burlington House.
t The above sketch is little more than an abridg
ment of Lysons' full account of the descent of the
manors, Environs, vol. ii., p. 746, etc. Robinson,
Hist, and Antiq. of Tottenham, voL i., p. 161, etc.,
repeats Lysons verbally, but adds some extracts
respecting the liberties and customs of the manors
from documents supplied him by Sir Wm. Curtis.

Compton's," but it was not here, as is
sometimes said, but at Bruce Castle, that
Lord Compton entertained Q. EUzabeth.
With the principal manor, Mockings was
bought in 1792 by Mr. T. Smith, who sold
it in 1803 to Mr. Cooper, by whom the
house was puUed down.
Ducketts, or Dovecot's, manor, in what
was a green lane, on the rt. of the road to
Southgate, belonged rather to Hornsey
than Tottenham, though usually placed
under the latter par. The old moated
manor-house was long a farm-house. In
the reign of EUzabeth it was held by
Cecil. The estate is now divided.
Willoughby's, another moated manor-
house, was. partly in Edmonton. The
house has long been pulled down, and its
site is uncertain. The present WiUoughby
House (W. Conolly, Esq.), a very common
place modern building, stands S. of the
old manor-house, in Tottenham parish.
Twyford Manor was so called of John
Twyford, who held it in the reign of
Henry V. It has long merged in the
chief manor. The name of Stoneleys is
retained, though no longer as a manor,
and the estate is charged with an annuity
to the occupants of Sanchez' almshouses.
Bruce Castle occupies the site of the
ancient manor-house of Bruses, the pro
bable residence of the father of Robert
Bruce. Sir William Compton, on ac
quiring the manor, built himself a suf
ficient mansion, in which he received
Henry VIII. and his sister Margaret
Queen of Scots, on the Saturday after
Ascension Day, 1516. Sixty years later
(May 1578), his grandson, Henry Lord
Compton, entertained Queen Elizabeth
here. The house appears to have been
new fronted whilst held by the Hare
family. In the 17th century it became
the residence of the Lord Coleranes, and
towards the end of the century Henry
Lord Colerane repaired and greatly
altered it. A new E. wing was added to
it by Alderman Townsend. Alderman
Townsend figured somewhat prominently
in the political circles of his day. He
was a friend of Lord Shelburne, who
writes to Lord Chatham from Bruce Castle,
Feb. 25, 1771, while on a visit to Aid.
Townsend, and Chatham in his reply
speaks of " our worthy warm friend
your landlord." Shortly after Mr.
Smith purchased the manor, he sold

TOTTENHAM.

619

TOTTENHAM.

the house to Mr. Ayrton Lee. It was
afterwards the property and residence
of John Eardley Wilmot, Esq., Master in
Chancery ; then of Mr. John Ede, who
pulled down the W. wing. In 1827, the
house, with 15 acres of grounds, was
bought by Messrs. Rowland, Edwin, and
Frederick HiU, who converted the house
into a school as a " branch establishment
of Hazelwood School, Birmingham," con
ducted by Thomas Wright HiU, and then
in great repute as a middle-class boarding-
school. Bruce Castle School soon acquired
equal celebrity. Mr. Rowland Hill with
drew from the school in 1833, engaged in
public life, and attained popularity and
distinction as the inventor of the Penny
Postage, and Secretary to the Post Office.
Messrs. Edwin and Frederick Hill likewise
left the school for the public service, in
which they rose to high posts. Bruce Castle
School was continued with great success
by Mr. Arthur Hill, and is now conducted
by Mr. Birckbeck HUI. The house has
been so often and so much altered for
school purposes, as to retain Uttle of its
ancient character or appearance. The
detached tower by the W. wing, a frag
ment of the older house, is still standing,
but completely covered with ivy.
It was of old the custom, when a
member of the family died at Bruce
Castle, not to convey the corpse through
the gate, but to break an opening in the
outer waU nearest the ch. The last
breach in the waU was made in 1789, for
the passage of the corpse of Alderman
James Townsend.* Bruce Grove marks
the site of an avenue of grand old elms,
which led from the highroad to the
house. Nearly all the other old mansions have
been removed. On the E. of the highroad,
opposite White Hart Lane, was The Black
House, once of great note. It was a large
red brick and stone Tudor mansion which
local tradition assigned to Henry VIII.,
but which is more reasonably supposed
to have been the residence of that king's
favourite servant, George Hynningham,
who founded an almshouse here and was
buried in the ch., where his portraiture
was preserved on a brass tUl stolen a few
years back. Henry is said to have often
visited and slept at his servant's, as an

Robinson, Hist, of Tottennam, vol. .. p. 218.

inscription in the royal chamber testified
when Bedwell wrote (1631). The king's
horses and men found lodging at an inn
called The Horns, a short distance beyond.
The Black House was afterwards for some
time the seat of Sir Hugh Smithson, — a
great benefactor of the poor of Tottenham,
and ancestor of the Dukes of Northumber
land. The house was pulled down in
1740. Reynardson's, on the N. side of Totten
ham Green, was a many-gabled red brick
mansion, built in 1590, and was in the
middle of the 17th century the seat of
Alderman Sir Abraham Reynardson,
Lord Mayor of London 1649, who for
refusing to proclaim the Act abolishing
the kingly power, was dismissed from
his mayoralty by the Parliament, fined
£2000, committed prisoner to the Tower
for two months, and declared incapable
of holding the office of alderman or
mayor in future. He died at his house
at Tottenham Oct. 4, 1661, and after lying
in state at Merchant Taylors' Hall, was
buried with great pomp in the ch. of St.
Martin Outwich. After serving for many
years as a boarding-school "for sons of
Friends " (Quakers), the house was taken
down in 1810.
Grove House, a. plain quadrangular
structure, with a semicircular bay at one
angle, was for several years the residence
of Sir Michael Foster, Justice of the
King's Bench, 1745-63, an eminent lawyer
and the " Old Foster just " of Churchill.
He was a native of Tottenham, where his
family had long been settled as soUcitors.
Grove House was afterwards the resi
dence of Mr. Ardesoif , noted for his wealth
and extravagance. Passionately addicted
to cock-fighting, he backed his favourite
bird, which had hitherto won every
match, for a heavy sum. The bird was
beaten, when Ardesoif, half-drunk, and
furious at his loss, thrust the bird into
the fire. His excitement continued, and
three days later he died at Grove House
in the furor of delirium tremens (1798).
White Hall, on the S. side of White
Hart Lane, the seat of the Barkhams,
Beauchamps, and Proctors, the site now
marked by Whitehall Terrace; Page
Green, built by Repton ; De la Haze's,
and other goodly mansions, were the
abodes of citizens of credit and renown
in their day, but now forgotten ; and the

TOTTENHAM.

620

TOTTENHAM.

houses, like their occupants, have for the
most part ceased to exist, or passed into
obscurity. Sir JuUus Cassar, the eminent
civiUan and Master of the Rolls, was a
native of Tottenham, and resided there in
1593. His son, Sir Charles Caesar, also
Master of the Rolls, was resident at Tot
tenham in 1634-39, in which years the
baptism of his three sons is registered.
Nothing is known of their seat.
Bedwell printed " a ternary of proverbs'*
relating to Tottenham, which from the
references made to them by other writers
must have had a wide popularity.
'¦ Tottenham is turned French " occurs
also in Heywood, where referring to dis
appointed expectations he says, —
" A man might espye the change in his cheekes,
Both of this poor wretch, and his "Wife, poore
wench.
Their faces told toyes, that Tottenham was
turn'd French."
Fuller's explanation is, that " about the
beginning of the reign of King Henry
VIII., French mechanics swarmed in
England, to the great prejudice of English
artizans, which caused the insurrection
in London, on ill May-day, a.d. 1517."
The infection spread to " country vUlages
for four miles about," and Tottenham
took it. The appUcation of the proverb
is palpable.
Both the others referred to Tottenham
Wood — a then existent fragment (314
acres) of the old Forest of Middlesex, lying
about 2 m. W. of the town. One refer
ring to things not likely to be accom
plished, ran — ¦' You shall as easily remove
Tottenham Wood." The other was
" When Tottenham Wood is all on fire
Then Tottenham Steet is nought but mire. "
Which the worthy Vicar of Tottenham
thus expoundeth — " When Tottenham
Wood. ... on the top of a high hill in the
W. end of the parish, hath a foggy mist
hanging and hovering over it, in manner
of a smoke, then generally foul weather
followeth ; so that it serveth the inha
bitants instead of a prognostication."
Whereon old Fuller comments, " I am
confident there is as much mire now as
formerly in Tottenham street, but ques
tion whether so much wood now as
anciently on Tottenham Hill." The wood
has long been removed, and the land
brought under the plough or built over,

and certainly the street has lost much
of its mire.
With the ternary of Tottenham pro
verbs may be placed the curious allitera
tive poem of the ' Tournament of Totten
ham,' first printed by BedweU in his
description of the town, from a MS. the
use of which he obtained " by the means
of the worthy and my much honoured
good friend M. George Wither," the poet,
who "much commended" the versifica
tion. Bedwell was inclined to carry
back its origin to the early part of the
14th cent. ; while Warton assigns it to
" some part of the reign of Henry VIII."*
An entry in the MS. ,f however, bears the
date 34 Henry VI., and with that the
phraseology and versification agree.
The ' Tournament of Tottenham ' is a
clever burlesque of the more serious
tournaments stiU in vogue, though some
what declining in popular favour. Bed-
well supposes it to be the narrative of an
actual occurrence ; and Warton aUows
that " it might originate in a real event,"
whUst Robinson states that " Randall the
reve Uved in the reign of Edward II ; "
but it is more probable that it is altogether
the invention of the poet. Be that as it
may, it relates the pretended occurrence
in a very circumstantial manner. The
tournay was proclaimed by " RondeU the
refe," who fixed the day on which it was
to be held " at Totenham. ... be the hye-
way." The prize he offered was Tybbe
his daughter, the weapon a flail :
" He that berys him best in the Turnament,
He shall be granted the gre by the comyn

For to Wynne my doghter with dughtynesse
of dent ;
And Coppul my brode hen that was broght
out of Kent,
And my donned cow :
For no spence will I spare
Por no catel will I care :
He shall haue my gray mare
And my spotted sowe."
To the Tourney came
" alle the men of that contray
Of Hisselton, of Hy-gate, and of Hakenay,"
while " all the wyues of Totenham came
to see the sight." The bachelors came in

* Hist, of English Poetry, vol. iii., p. 98. Ver
sions of the poem varying somewhat from Bed-
well's have been printed by Percy, Ritson, Wright,
and Robinson ; our quotations are from the last."
t Harl. MSS., 5396.

TOTTENHAM.

621

TOTTENHAM,

full array, " with flayles and harnys, and
trumpis mayde of tre." " Theire baner was
ful bright," the " chefe was a ploo-mell,"
or plough-hammer. Their surcoat was of
sheep-skin, and for armour " a baskett or a
panyer before on thaire brest," and each
had " a blac hatte in stidde of a crest."
Tybbe herself was there, seated aloft on
the gray mare, wearing a " gay girdle
borrowed for the nones," with " a garland
on head fuU of rueU bones," and carrying
the brood hen in her lap. All the pre-
Uminaries were gone through in due form,
and the several knights were paraded and
made their vows. Then the fighting com
menced, and
" I vow it was no childer gamine, when thei
togeder mett."
The result of the fray, which lasted till
evening, was that Perkyn the Potter was
the victor, and carried off to church " that
dere Tybbe that he shall wedde," all the
vanquished who were able joining in the
procession. On the morrow was the wed
ding feast, which
" served was in rich array ....
And so they sate in iolite [jollity], al the long day."
A supplementary poem gives further par
ticulars of the feast, but it is apparently
of later date and by an inferior hand.
The town stretches as an irregular line
of houses, with scarcely a breach of con
tinuity, for nearly 2 m. along the high
road, from the N. side of Stamford HiU
till it loses itself in Upper Edmonton.
Here and there blank waUs with over
hanging trees mark a house that is, or has
bean, a place of consequence ; but gene
rally the houses are of moderate size,
while many are small and some very
wretched. Some old houses remain with
good wrought-iron gateways in front,
relics of better days ; but the most part
are commonplace. The bye-streets and
lower parts too often look damp and
depressing. A noteworthy feature is the
number of almshouses and benevolent
institutions; some, Uke the Drapers', of
exceptional size, schools, reading-rooms,
temperance halls, and the like.
Tottenham is situated on the London
clay, a stiff heavy soil ; and of old the
occupations were chiefly agricultural.
There are stUl many outlying farms, and
much of the land is under the plough.
The broad marshes afford good grazing,

and heavy grass-crops. Of late years the
growth of flowers, for sale in roots, but
much more largely cut, for the London
market, has become an important branch
of industry.
Once Tottenham was noted for its
greens. Several are greens no longer ;
but two will be observed in passing
through the main street, Page Green on
the rt., at its commencement, where stood
the Seven Sisters, and Tottenham Green
on the 1., near the centre, a well-kept
green, with the new ch. at its farther end,
bordered by trees and good houses, one of
which, at the S.W. corner of High-Cross
Lane, when the residence of the late Mr.
Benj. Godfrey Windus, was famous as
containing one of the finest coUections
of water-colour drawings in England —
Turner's drawings alone numbering over
200, Wilkie's sketches 600. From the
highroad, streets and lanes run off on
the one side to fields and uplands, on the
other to the Lea and the marshes along it,
lined mostly with scattered houses, but
opening at others, as at Northumberland
Park, into what are almost villages of
modern villas and genteel cottages. The
old roadside inns, once so numerous, have
nearly all disappeared or been modernized.
Izaak Walton's inn, the Swan, has been
already mentioned. The next most noted
inn was the George and Vulture. The
large rambling old house had the arms of
Q. Elizabeth over the entrance, and dated
from the reign of the Virgin Queen. Ac
cording to tradition it was originaUy the
mansion of Balthasar Sanchez — to be
spoken of presently. In the 17th and
l$th cents, it was a favourite summer
resort of the citizens, and belonged to the
class of tea-gardens noticed under Hamp-
stead, Isleworth, etc. It had spacious
grounds in which were covered walks and
arbours, a, canal well stocked with fish,
and a large banqueting haU and music-
room. The George and Vulture is referred
to in the' Search after Claret,' 1691, and
often advertised in the newspapers of a
somewhat later date. One rhyming ad
vertisement notifies that
" The kind landlord glad attends
To welcome all his City friends ; "
has "a larder stored for every taste,"
the best of wines, and honest punch ; and
has so provided that

TOTTENHAM.

622

TOTTENHAM.

" The cautious Fair may sip with glee
The freshest Coffee, finest Tea,"
whilst " The spacious Garden, verdant Field
Pleasures beyond expression yield,
The Angler here to sport inclined
In his canal may pastime find."
Early in the 19th cent, the inn was closed.
In 1807 it was occupied as a boarding-
school, and continued to be so occupied
for some 20 years. It was pulled down
in 1829, and several small houses built on
the site. During its demolition many
silver coins of Elizabeth, James, and the
Charleses were found. The present George
and Vulture is but a degenerate descend
ant of the old tavern.
The Seven Sisters mentioned above, one
of the memorabilia of Tottenham, were 7
elm-trees growing in a circle by the road
side at Page Green. According to an
obscure tradition they were planted by
seven sisters when about to separate. In
their midst grew of old a walnut-tree,
which Bedwell includes in his "ternary
of wonders" of the parish. This tree, he
says, had stood there for many years, and
regularly bore leaves, and yet it was ob
served that it grew neither greater nor
higher. It was affirmed by old people
that one was burned there for professing
the Gospel, but his name the vicar could
not learn. When Robinson wrote (1840)
the elms were " considered to be upwards
of 500 years old." They were then " fast
going to decay." Thirty years later their
lifeless trunks were standing; now all
traces of them are gone. We knew them
both green and leafless, and feel sure they
could not have numbered more than half
the years Robinson assigned them. Their
memory is preserved by 7 young trees
planted on the green a little E. of the
old seven. The road opposite them bears
their name. The Seven Sisters Road was
constructed in 1831-33, and joins the
Camden Road at Holloway, thus opening
a direct communication with the Regent's
Park and the West-end of London, the
only road to which was till then through
Islington. Tottenham Church (All HaUows) stands
about i m. W. of the highroad, in the
rear of Bruce Castle. The ch. was given
by David King of Scotland, about 1125, to
the canons of the ch. of the Holy Trinity
in London, a reUgious house founded by

his sister, Queen Matilda. It was held by
them tiU the Dissolution, when the Uving
was granted first to the Lord Howard of
Effingham, and on his attainder to the
Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. The
existing ch. is of much later date than
King David, to whom some have as
cribed its erection. It is a much-patched
and altered fabric, of many dates and
various materials. The older part, in
cluding the nave and S. aisle, is of flint
and stone, and of the Perp. period. The
N. aisle, which is of brick, was built in
1816. The tower, of flint and stone,
thickly covered with ivy, appears to be
older than the rest of the ch., but the W.
window, doorway, and battlements are of
the year 1846. The large brick porch, on
the S.W., with a room over it, is of the
beginning of the 16th cent.* A curious
semicircular structure at the E. end of the
N. aisle (removed in the summer of 1875)
was buUt and endowed by Lord Colerane
in 1697, as a vestry and entrance to
the family crypt beneath. Lastly, com
pleting the incongruity, a chancel, vestry,
and organ chamber, of bright red brick
and stone, Dec. in style, designed by Mr.
Butterfield in the latest phase of eccle
siastical fashion, was carried out from the
old ch. in the autumn of 1875, and com
pleted in 1876. The interior has partici
pated in most of these alterations, and
has also undergone many churchwarden's
additions and beautifications of its own,
and is in process of undergoing more.
The nave, of 4 bays, and the aisles are
of equal width; the roof of plain tim
ber and ceiled. At the E. end is some
good 14th cent, painted glass, at the W.
a representation of Christ blessing little
children, modern and poor. Monts. — On
rt. of old chancel was an elaborate
memorial of Maria Wilcocks, d. 1644, wife
of Sii- Robert Barkham, with their half-
length effigies in marble, the knight in
armour, the lady in lace stomacher and
veil, her hand resting on a skull : beneath
3 sons and 7 daughters ; above arms, etc.
The sculptor, Edward Marshal, has en
graved his name over the busts. On 1.
Richard Candeler, d. 1602 ; his wife, Eliza,
* The room over the porch was long appro
priated as the residence of some poor pensioner.
The last occupant was Elizabeth Fleming, who
lived in this room 40 years, and died in it, about
17U0, in her 100th year (Lysons ; Robinson).

TOTTENHAM.

623

TOTTENHAM.

d. 1622 ; their son-in-law, Sir Ferdinando
Heyborne, gentlemen of the privy cham
ber to Queen EUzabeth and James I., d.
161S, and his wife Anne, d. 1615: of
veined marble, with kneeling effigies of
the deceased, fully coloured, under arches,
with obeUsks, shields of arms, and long
laudatory inscriptions. S. aisle, mural,
of coloured marbles, of Sir John Melton,
d. 1640. keeper of the great seal for the
north of England, with effigies, coloured,
of the knight in armour and a lady kneel
ing, before faldstools : Sir John was thrice
married, his first wife being Elizabeth,
widow of Sir Ferdinando Heyborne, but
which wife is represented on the mont. is
not told, — probably the third, Margaret,
reUct of Samuel Alderiey, who survived
him. Hugh Hare, Lord Colerane, d. 1685,
and Lucy, daughter of Henry Earl of
Manchester, and wife of Hugh Lord
Colerane, d. 1681. On the floor a black
marble slab to James Paget, Baron of
the Exchequer, d. 1638. There are also
numerous memorials of wealthy residents,
and one to " Mr. Wm. BedweU, sometime
vicar of this church, and one of King
James' translators of the Bible, and for
the Easterne tongues as learned a man, as
most Uved in these moderne times," d.
1632, the author of the ' Briefe Description
of the Towne of Tottenham,' several times
cited. Formerly there were numerous
brasses in the ch. , among others, to George
Hynningham, " sometime servant and
greatly favoured of King Henry VIII.,
who founded here an hospetal or almes-
house for 3 poore widdowes," d. 1536 ;
Thomas Hynningham, d. 1499 ; William
Hynningham, d. 1603, and other members
of the family; Umfray Povy, d. 1510;
and an interesting small brass, often en
graved, of a priest, Walter Hunt (1419),
holding a book and chaUce ; — but all
have been stolen, some since 1840, when
the 2nd ed. of ' Robinson's History of
Tottenham,' in which several of them are
engraved, was pubUshed.
The churchyard contains numerous
tombs mostly of local magnates. On the
N. side of the ch., close under the W. end
of the N. aisle, is a mont., within railings,
to " Margaret Lydia, wife of James
Samuel, CE. , and daughter of the Ettrick
Shepherd, who died 28 Feb., 1847, aged 22
years." Opposite the porch is a moderate-
sized yew-tree and E. of it another.

Holy Trinity Church, on the N. side of
Tottenham Green, was erected 1828-30,
from the designs of Mr. J. Savage, as
a chapel-of-ease, but was made an eccl.
dist. ch. in 1844. It is a chapel
like brick building with buttresses and
pinnacles, in style E.E. of impure cha
racter. Nor is the eccl. dist. ch. of St.
Paul, Park Lane, 1859, a much better
example of modern architecture. Far
superior is St. Ann's ch., Hanger Lane (or,
as it is now called. St. Ann's Road — a
change that destroys the local significa
tion, hanger = a meadow or enclosure by
a wood). St. Ann's ch., with the adja
cent parsonage, was built in 1861 at the
cost of F. Newsam, Esq., from the designs
of Mr. Talbot Bury. It is of Kentish rag
and Bath stone ; cruciform, with an octa
gonal apse, and a tower and spire, 127 ft.
high, on the S.W. ; is Dec. in style ; very
picturesque externally, and finished with
unusual care and elegance inside. St.
Michael's, Wood Green, is another dist.
ch., erected in 1865, from the designs of
Mr. H. Curzon, on the site of an old
chapel. The chancel, tower, and spire were
added in 1874.
Dissenters' places of worship are nu
merous, though few are of architectural
value. The Roman Catholics have a
chapel, the Congregationalists 2, Baptists
3, Presbyterians 2, Wesleyans 2, other
Methodists 4 or 5, and there are several
' Mission halls,' and ' Gospel rooms.'
Friends as well as Nonconformists have
long flourished in Tottenham. The
Friends' Meeting-house was built in 1714,
and has been more than once enlarged.
When Dr. Robinson wrote, there were
about 60 f amUies of Friends in Tottenham,
and here have been several of their chief
boarding-schools. Bernard Barton, the
Quaker poet, who was of a Tottenham
family, and spent his childhood in Totten
ham, gives a characteristic sketch of one
of these soUd old Quaker mansions, with
its sedate, but not ungenial master — house
and master now aUke things of the past :
" My most delightful recollections of boyhood
are connected with the fine old country house in a
green lane diverging from the highroad which
runs through Tottenham  It was a large
house, with an iron palisade and a pair of iron
gates in front, and a huge stone eagle on each pier.
Leading up to the steps by which you went up to
the hall door was a wide gravel walk, bordered in
summer time by huge tubs, in which were orange
and lemon trees, and in the centre of the grass-

TOTTENHAM.

624

TOTTENHAM.

plot stood a tub yet huger, holding an enormous
aloe. The hall itself, to my fancy then, lofty and
wide as a cathedral would seem now, was a famous
place for battledore and shuttlecock, and behind
was a garden equal to that of old Alcinous himself.
My favourite walk was one of turf by a long straight
pond, bordered with lime trees. But the whole
demesne was the fairy ground of my childhood,
and its presiding genius was grandpapa. He must
have been a handsome man in his youth, for I
remember him at nearly eighty, a very fine-looking
one. ... In the morning a velvet cap ; by dinner
a flaxen wig; and features always expressive of
benignity and placid cheerfulness. When he walked
out into the garden, his cocked hat and amber-
headed cane completed the costume." *
Thomas ShilUtoe, one of the sect who in
our day most resembled in fiery zeal the
original Quakers, whilst in unceasing ad
vocacy of every benevolent object he
rivalled the meekest of their successors,
lived for nearly 60 years at Tottenham,
1778—1836.f To Tottenham Nonconformists belongs
one of the greatest of Protestant mis
sionaries, John WilUams, the apostle and
martyr of Polynesia, and author of ' A
Narrative of Missionary Enterprises,' who
was born at Tottenham 1796, and killed
at Erromanga 1839.
In the Highroad, not far from the Cross,
is the Free Grammar School, founded in
1686 by Sarah, Duchess Dowager of
Somerset, and wife of Henry Lord Cole
rane, a foundation which is set forth as
the first of her claims to remembrance on
her mont. in Westminster Abbey. The
school has never acquired celebrity, and it
boasts of no distinguished scholars. The
most eminent of the masters was WilUam
Baxter, nephew of Richard Baxter, the
famous Puritan divine, editor of Horace
and Anacreon, and author of a Dictionary
of British Antiquities (' Glossarium Anti-
quitatum veteris Britanniae,'etc.,8vo,1719,)
on which he spent 20 years. He quitted
Tottenham, about 1700, for the mastership
of the Mercers' School, London, which he
retained till shortly before his death in 1723.
The school-house is now in a very dilapi
dated condition, one wing being closed
and propped up with wooden struts.
The parochial almshouses have some
interest from their founders. The oldest,

* Poems and Letters by Bernard Barton, with
Memoir by his Daughter, p. xii.
t His story is told in a curious book — Journal of
the Life, Labours, and Travels of Thomas Sbillitoe,
in the Service of the Gospel of Jesus Christ, 2 vols.
8vo, 1839.

probably was that known as Pound's, in
the Highroad, near the Manor Pound, the
foundation of which is usually ascribed to
Jasper Phesaunt, but which was in all
probabiUty the almshouse for 3 poor men
and 3 poor women referred to in the insc.
on the brass of George Hynningham (1536)
cited above. The inmates are now 4 of
each sex.
Sanchez' Almshouses, for " i poor aged
men and 4 women, widows and widowers.
inhabitants of Tottenham," were founded
by Balthasar Sanchez by his will dated
1599. The queer low range of tenements
stands on the E. of the Highroad, by
Scotland Green. Balthasar Sanchez, wrote
his contemporary BedweU (named in the
will a, trustee for the charity) "was a
Spanyard borne (but a freedenyzenof Eng
land) confectioner or comfit-maker, and
grand- master of all that prof esse that trade
in this kingdom." He came to England
as comfit-maker in the train of King PhiUp,
settled here, died in 1602, and was buried
at St. Mary Woolnoth. In King Henry
IV. (Part i., act iii., sc. 1) Hotspur says to
his wife —
" Heart, you swear like a comfit-maker's wife !
.... Swear me, Kate, like a lady as thou art,
A good mouth-filling oath ; and leave in sooth,
And such protest of pepper-gingerbread,
To velvet-guards and Sunday-citizens."
King Henry IV. was entered at Stationers'
Hall in 1597, and, as Mr. E. Ford, who
called our attention to the passage, ob
serves, it appears difficult to resist the
conclusion that Shakspeare's " comfit-
maker's wife," was Mrs. Sanchez. Velvet
guards were then distinctive of the wives
of aldermen and wealthy citizens, and
Sanchez was "grand-master" of his trade.
Shakspeare, it may be added, gives the
unusual name of Balthasar to four different
characters. What more likely than that
he had seen and made a note of the
flourishing and perhaps somewhat osten
tatious, Spanyard-citizen Balthasar San
chez? Reynardson's Almshouse. — Nicholas
Reynardson (son of the loyaUst Lord
Mayor noticed above) bequeathed the
manor of Netherhall, in 1685, for the
founding of an almshouse for 6 poor men
and 6 women, and the instruction of 20
poor children. The bequest was not
available till after the decease of the testa
tor's wife in 1727, and the almshouse was

TOTTENHAM.

625

TOTTERIDGE.

not erected till 1737 ; and then for only 8
instead of 12 persons. The building
stands near the High Cross, and in ac
cordance with the founder's wiU provides
'• a lower and an upper room " for each
pensioner, with " a convenient chapel in
the middle of the building for the reading
of prayers every forenoon.' ' Besides lodg
ing and coals, each person receives about
£14 annually.
Besides the parochial almshouses, there
are the Sailmakers' Almshouses in Bruce
Grove ; Alderman Staines' Almshouses in
Church Road; the Drapers' College, a
large coUegiate Gothic pile, forming three
sides of a quadrangle, and containing
class rooms and dormitories for 100 boys,
masters' houses, etc., erected in 1861 from
the designs of Mr. Herbert Williams, for
the education of the sons of freemen of
the company ; the Drapers Company's
Female Orphan Asylum, Lordship Lane ;
and the Drapers' Almshouses, Bruce
Grove, for 24 aged and decayed members
of the company, a neat and cheerful group
of new houses about a large lawn, with a
grove of old elms in front — together a
magnificent charity. Other institutions
of a like kind are in Wood Green, etc.
In a large old mansion on the E. of the
Green is the Evangelical Protestant Dea
conesses Institute and Training Hospital,
which besides training young women for
nurses, receives about 300 patients annu-
aUy. There are Dispensaries in the High
road and St. Ann's Road ; a Girls' Indus
trial Orphan Home, established 1836,
with accommodation for 120 orphans;
and various other benevolent institutions.
The first Savings Bank in England of a
pubUc kind, was founded at Tottenham,
Jan. 1804, under the name of the Chari
table Bank, by Mrs. Priscilla Wakefield —
authoress of many once popular books
for the young. The same benevolent
Friend also established here in 1791 a
' Charity for Lying-in Women,' which is
said to have been the earliest of its kind.
Tottenham Hale is a hamlet lying to
the E. of the High Cross, and now united
to the town : here is the Tottenham Stat.
on the Cambridge line of the Gt. E. Rly.
The road to Essex passes through it, and
the name of the Hale is continued to the
Lea. which was of old crossed by a ferry.
The ferry has long been supplanted by a
bridge, but its memory is preserved in the

sign of the inn at its foot, the Ferry Boat
a fishing inn and boating house, with
large tea-gardens on the opposite side of
the road, much resorted to in summer.
On the opposite side of the Lea are the
extensive reservoirs and filtering-beds of
the East London Waterworks Company,
commonly known as the Tottenham Re
servoirs, but really in Walthamstow.
Wood Green is a large and growing
hamlet, built about what was a green on
the Southgate road, 2 m. W. of Totten
ham, and stretching on the E. up Lordship
Lane and on the W. towards the Alexandra
Palace, the grounds of which are partly
in Tottenham par. Wood Green was
made an eccl. dist. in 1866, and had 5011
inhab. in 1871, a number since largely
increased. The ch. (St. Michael) on the
W. side of the Green, has been already
noticed. Just beyond it is the Printers'
Pension Society Asylum, a handsome
Tudor buUding erected in 1850, and en
larged by the addition of wings in 1871.
It provides comfortable apartments for
24 persons, and the corporation gives also
home pensions to about 100 printers and
printers' widows. Immediately beyond it
is the Asylum for Aged Fishmongers and
Poulterers, a capacious structure, in
which 12 married couples are main
tained. The institution also provides 12
home pensions of £15 a year. Fuller's
Almshouses, Nightingale Lane, is a cheer
ful looking semi-Gothic building, erected
in 1865 from the designs of Mr. C. A.
Long. In Lordship Lane, a short distance from
Wood Green on the 1., is the Royal Ma
sonic Institution for Boys, an old institu
tion on a small scale, but greatly extended
and improved when removed to Wood
Green in 1865. The building, designed
by Mr. E. Pearce, is large and of pleasing
appearance, Collegiate Gothic in style, of
white brick with stone dressings. It
comprises a centre with bold bay window,
wings, and tall turrets at the extremities.
On one side is a chapel, on the other a
large school-room : 200 boys are lodged,
clothed, and maintained, and receive a
thorough commercial education.
TOTTERIDGE, Herts, a vill. at
the S.E. angle of the county, between
Whetstone and Highwood Hill, Middx, 1.
m. W. of the Great North Road, where is
40

TOTTERIDGE.

626

TOTTERIDGE.

the Totteridge and Whetstone Stat, of the
Gt. N. Rly. (High Barnet line) : pop. 474.
Inn .- Orange Tree.
The name is derived probably from the
A.-S. root Tot, a height, an elevation
(toten, to elevate, as in Toot Hill, Tothill),
and ridge ; but Taylor thinks such places
as Tot Hill and the like " may possibly
have been seats of Celtic worship," the
names coming from the Celtic deity, Taith,
the Teutates of Lucan.* Totteridge occu
pies the summit (437 ft. above the Ord
nance datum) of the line of high land
which stretches westward from Whetstone
to Highwood Hill (402 ft. high), and
thence N.W. to Elstree. The country is
varied and agreeable, richly wooded, and
affords extensive views, and Totteridge is
as yet little defa-jed by the builder. About
the Green are some good old houses,
standing in the midst of fine grounds.
The ch. is picturesquely placed on the
highest point of the hiU. From an early
period Totteridge was united with Hat
field, and held by the Bp. of Ely, till
surrendered to Queen Elizabeth for an
annuity of £1500. to be paid out of the
Exchequer to the Bps. of that see. The
living of Totteridge is still held with that
of Hatfield, forming together one of the
two richest Uvings in the county ; f it is
in the gift of the Marquis of Salisbury.
Elizabeth gave the manor in 1590 to
John Cage, from whom it passed to Pea
cock, then to Sir Paul Whichcote, who
sold it in 1720 to James Brydges, Duke of
Chandos. By Henry, 2nd Duke of Chan
dos, it was sold to Sir Wm. Lee, Lord
Chief Justice of the King's Bench. It is
now held by the trustees of the late John
Lee, LL.D.
The Church (St. Andrew), on the rt. of
the road from Whetstone, is a plain brick
building erected in 1790, but enlarged in
1869 by the addition of an apsidal chancel
and transept (organ chamber and vestry),
and rendered more accordant with current
ecclesiastical taste. Painted windows
were at the same time inserted as a me
morial of Lord Cottenham. The only
mont. of interest is a tablet by Bacon to
John Puget, Esq., d. 1805. Opposite the
W. door of the ch. is a magnificent yew,

* Taylor, Words and Places, p. 826.
t Totteridge with Hatfield is valued at £2097 ¦
Hadham, Much and Little, at £2200.

26 ft. in girth at 3 ft. from the ground,
and 25 ft. at 4£ ft. Under the shadow of
the great yew is the tomb of Charles
Christopher Pepys, 1st Lord Cottenham,
Lord ChanceUor 1836-41, and 1846-50, d.
April 29, 1851 ; also of Lady Cottenham.
Totteridge Park, a short distance W. of
the ch., occupies the site of the old manor-
house, and its successor, a hunting box
erected by Lord Bateman, and afterwards
sold by him to Sir Wm. Lee. The present
house, a large bald brick edifice, was
erected by John Jennings, Esq., early in
the present cent. It stands in a finely
wooded park of about 100 acres. Baron
Bunsen Uved here in 1848-49. During
his residence he entertained many distin
guished men here, and greatly enjoyed the
grounds with their "grand trees, those
lofty firs the pride of Totteridge, the fine
terrace, the charming garden," etc. " O
how thankful," he wrote, " I am for this
Totteridge ! Could I but describe the
groups of fine trees, the turf, the terrace
walks ; " and to the last he loved to refer
to its quiet and beauty." Later, the
house was occupied by Lord Cottenham.
It is now a first-class boys' school.
Pointer's Grove, S. of the ch., belonged
in 1652 to Lady Gurney, widow of Sir
Richard Gurney, Lord Mayor, who died
a prisoner in the Tower in 1647. It after
wards belonged successively to Sir John
Aubrey, Sir Thos. Aleyne, Sir Peter Meyer,
Sir John Sheffield, and the late John Hey
Puget, Esq. The grounds were laid out
by Brown.
Copped Hall (Mrs. Kirby), on the way
to Hendon, is a fine house, remodelled a
few years back by Mr. Kendall : the
dining-room is lined with Gobelin tapestry.
The grounds, of about 80 acres, were laid
out by Repton.
When Lysons wrote, "Wm. Manning,
Esq., M.P., one of the directors of the
Bank of England," had " a handsome seat
at Totteridge, with extensive gardens,"
and is noted as having presented a picture
to the ch., and contributed liberally to the
parochial charities. It was in this house
that his son, Cardinal Manning, was born
in 1809.
_ Lady Rachel RusseU retired to Totte
ridge for a time after the execution of her

* Lady Bunsen, Memoirs of Baron Bunsen
vol. ii.

TURNHAM GREEN.

627

TWICKENHAM.

husband, William Lord Russell, 16S3.
Richard Baxter, the eminent Noncon
formist divine, after his release from im
prisonment under the Conventicle Act,
lived in retirement for several years at
Totteridge, 1605-72. John Corbet, author
of various theological tracts, found an
asylum at his house. From an entry in
the parish register made by •• Mr. Lip-
trott, late curate of Totteridge," and
quoted by Lysons *—" Mem. Ld Mohun,
who was killed in a duel by the Duke of
Hamilton and Brandon (who was likewise
killed,) Nov. 15, 1712, is supposed to have
been buried in that part called Sr Robert
Atkyns's Chapel" — it has been assumed
that " the wicked Lord " was buried at
Totteridge. But Mr. Liptrott was mis
taken or misinformed, notwithstanding
that he adduces in confirmation of his
belief the fact that in 1770, in the place
indicated, there " was discovered a large
leaden coffin, but the wooden one entirely
decayed." Lord Mohun was buried at
St. Martin's-in-the-Fields,f and according
to the register, on the 25th of Nov., 1712.
Thomas Whincop, "poet and lodger at Mr.
Porker's," author of ' Scanderberg,' a
tragedy, was buried at Totteridge 1730,
and his widow 52 years afterwards.
Among the entries of burials is "March
2d, 1802, Elizabeth King, widow, for 46
years clerk of this parish."
TURNHAM GREEN, Middx., on
the main western road between Hammer
smith and Brentford, 4^ m. from Hyde
Park Corner ; a stat. on the Hammersmith
and Richmond br. of the L. and S.-W.
Rly., and £ m. W. of the Hammersmith
Stat, of the N. Lond. Rly. It is a hamlet
of Chiswick, but was in 1845 created an
eccl. dist. Pop. 3434.
The Green is enclosed ; around it are
private houses and shops ; in the centre a
church, E.E. in style, with a tower and
taU spire, erected in 1843. Some of the
houses are favourable examples of the
comfortable brick suburban mansions of
the last century, but on the whole the place
has a modern look, though, from its situa
tion, a roadside hamlet must have grown
up here at an early period. The Pack

* Environs, vol. i. , p. 78I.
t Cunningham, Hand-book of London, art. St.
Martin'8-in-the-Fields.

Horse (where Horace Walpole used to
turn aside to bait, and still in use) is
mentioned in an advertisement of the
year 1697;* and another old sign, The
King of Bohemia's Head, might be seen
here a few years back.
Stukeley mentions the finding of a
Roman urn, filled with silver coins, at
Turnham Green in 1731, but there is no
other evidence of its having been a Ro
man station. Prince Rupert encamped
on the Green in 10-12; and on the day of
Brentford Fight (Nov. 12) there was
skirmishing here till dusk, when, accord
ing to a pamphlet of the time, the prince
drew off to the enclosed ground onthert.,
leaving 000 of his cavaliers dead on the
field. Another pamphlet narrates a less
fatal but sufficiently serious encounter.
' Great and Bloody News from Turnham
Green, or a Relation of a sharp Encounter
between the Earl of Pembroke [Henry,
7th Earl] and his Company, with the
Constable and Watch belonging to the
parish of Chiswick, in which conflict one
Mr. Smeethe, a gentleman, and one Mr.
Halfpenny, a constable, were mortally
wounded,' etc., fol. 1680. The "narrow
and winding lane leading from the land
ing-place on the north of the river to
Turnham Green," was the spot fixed on
by the conspirators in what was known
as "Barclay's Plot," for the assassination
of William III. on his return from hunting
in Richmond Park on the afternoon of
Saturday, the 15th of Feb., 1696. The
discovery of the plot, with the arrest and
trial of the chief conspirators, is told at
length by Macaulay .f
Sir John Chardin, the traveller, resided
till his death at Turnham Green :
" 1705. May 18. — I went to see Sii- John Chardin
at Turnham Green : the gardens very fine and
exceeding well planted with fruit, "t
In a house by the ch., now pulled down,
Lord Lovat was resident before his arrest.
It was purchased in 1789 by Lord Heath
field, the hero of Gibraltar, who Uved here
till his death the following year. The
gardens were laid out by Aiton, and
greatly admired.
TWICKENHAM, Middx., on the 1.
bank of the Thames, between Teddington
* London Gazette, No. 3387.
+ History of England, chap. xxi.
t Evelyn, Diary.

TWICKENHAM.

628

TWICKENHAM.

and Isleworth, and a little above Rich
mond ; 10 m. from Hyde Park Corner
by road, and a stat. on the Loop Une
of the L. and S.-W. Rly. Pop. 10,533.
Inns : King's Head, King Street; Albany
Hotel, Rly. Stat. ; Railway Hotel.
The village is beautifully placed on
the Thames between the higher ground
of Strawberry HiU and the pleasant
Twickenham meadows, with Ham Walks
and Petersham, backed by Richmond
Hill and Park on the opposite side of the
river. It has always been a favourite
residence, and boasts consequently a
larger number of noted houses and emi
nent inhabitants than almost any other
village on the Thames. Many of these
houses have disappeared, but several are
left ; and though it has, Uke most of the
villages round London, lost much of its
rural seclusion by the advent of the rail
way and the progress of the builder, it is
still sylvan, and by the river-side nearly
as attractive as ever.
Speculation on the name has been even
more than commonly unprofitable. Norden
thought it was called Twickenham either
because the Thames seems to be divided
into two rivers by the islands (eyots)
here ; or else of two brooks which near
this town enter the Thames. Lonside is
more recondite, and not unamusing in his
absurdity : " The word ken signifies to
look ; so that Twy-ken-ham may signify
a village with two views, as it hath a
view of Kingston one way, and Isleworth,
as also Richmond, the other way." If
this be not approved, he offers an alterna
tive derivation from twygen, twigs ; and
as willows grew abundantly by the river
here, he thinks " we may say Twickenham,
Ticygenhain, signifies a village among
willows." * Unluckily for these sugges
tions, the earliest forms of the name are
Twittanham (791,948) and Twitham (840).
It is not mentioned in the Dom. Survey.
Twittenham survived down almost to the
present generation in popular usage, and
in the last century it was a customary
form among thebest-educatedinhabitants.
Pope, who has made Twickenham poetic
ground, invariably spells it Twitenham,
and Horace Walpole, who has done little
less to render the name imperishable, at
* Hist, and Antiq. of Twickenham, 4to 1797
p. 3 ; in Bib. Top. Brit., vol. x

least in his earlier years, wrote Twitenham
or Twit'nam.
" Where silver Thames round Twit'nam meads
His winding current sweetly leads ;
Twit'nam the Muses' fav'rite seat,
Twit'nam the Graces' loved retreat." *
Thomson, an inhabitant of Richmond,
wrote, —
' ' Here let us trace the matchless vale of Thames
Far winding up to where the Muses haunt,
To Twitnam's bowers. "
And again a later and humbler Richmond
bard —
" Twit'nam ! so dearly loved, so often sung,
Theme of each raptured heart and glowing
tongue." t
Twickenham is one of those happy
places which is not burdened with a
history. A grave topographer did indeed
write and publish the ' History and
Antiquities of Twickenham,' but he
despatched both the history and antiqui
ties almost as summarily as a more
learned predecessor did the reptUes in a
famous chapter on serpents.
" On the strictest enquiry I cannot find that
there have ever been any discoveries made, any
curious remains of antiquity found, or that any
remarkable circumstances happened, or any synods,
parliaments, or other meetings, civil or religious
were held in this parish."!
Originally Twickenham was accounted
a hamlet of Isleworth. Part of it was
held from before the Conquest by the
Brethren of the Holy Trinity at Houns-
low ; the other and chief part by the
monks of Christ Church, Canterbury.
On the suppression of religious houses
their property reverted to the Crown, and
Twickenham was annexed to the Honour
of Hampton Court. Charles I. settled it
for life on his queen, Henrietta Maria, as
a portion of her j ointure. With other Crown
lands it was seized by the Parliament,
but resumed by the Queen Dowager at the
Restoration. Charles II. settled it on
his queen, Catherine of Portugal, in 1670,
but granted a reversionary lease to the
Earl of Rochester. This lease passed to
Lord Bolingbroke, and upon his attainder,
1715, reverted to the Crown. Later
leases are of no interest.
* Walpole, Parish Register of Twickenham
+ Richmond Hall, a Poem, 1807, by the Rev T
Maurice— better known by his ' Indian Antiqui-
t Ironside, Hist, and Antiq. of Twickenham,

TWICKENHAM.

020

TWICKENHAM.

" Twittenham," wrote Defoe in 1722, " a village
remai-kable for abundance of curious seats, of
which that of Boucher, the famous gamester,
would pass in Italy for a delicate palaoe. The
Earl of Marr, the Earl of Strafford, the Earl of
Bradford, the Lord Brook, the Lord Sunderland,
the Lady Falkland, have each their pretty villas
in this parish ; but I think that of Secretary
Johnstone, for the elegancy and largeness of the
gardens, his terrace on the river, and the situation
of his house, makes much the brightest figure
here. '*
Walpole wrote of it in a similar strain
some 30 years later, when, however, the
array of names was less aristocratic
though not less remarkable : —
" Nothing is equal to the fashion of this village :
Mr. Muntz says we have more coaches here than
there are in half France. Mrs. Pritchard has
bought Bagman's Castle, for which my Lord Lich
field could not agree. We shall be as celebrated
as Baise or Tivoli ; and if we have not such sonorous
names as they boast, we have very famous people :
Clive and Pritchard actresses ; Scott and Hudson
painters ; my Lady Suifolk, famous in her time ;
Mr. H  1 the impudent lawyer, that Tom Harvey
wrote against ; Whitehead the poet, and Cam
bridge the everything."!
One remarkable peculiarity Twicken
ham — if ,we may trust its chronicler —
possessed in those days : " There is not
so untittletattling a village as Twicken
ham in the island ; and if Mr. Cambridge
did not gallop the roads for intelligence,
I believe the grass would grow in our
ears " — and this when Twickenham was,
in his own words, " a colony of dowagers,"
and he himself was importing into our
Uterature from this very village more
tittletattle than any other man ever col
lected. The Manor House, a large red-brick
mansion, stands opposite the N. side of
the ch. An earlier house, which occu
pied the site, was, according to an un
supported tradition, the house to which
Queen Katherine of Aragon retired after
her divorce from Henry VIII. In
the early part of the 17th cent, the
Manor House was the seat of Sir John
Walter, Lord Chief Baron of the Ex
chequer (d. 1630). Samuel Scott, the
painter of river scenery (d. 1772) lived
* De Foe, A Journey through England, 8vo, 1722,
vol. i., p. 03.
+ This was Joseph Hickey, the "most blunt
honest creature " of Goldsmith's ' Retaliation,'
whose "one only fault," in Oliver's estimation —
though "that was a thumper" — was that he was
a "special attorney."
; Horace Walpole to Bentley, July 5, 1755 ;
Letters, vol. ii., p. 447.

here for some time ; as did afterwards
his pupil, Wm. Marlow, F.S.A. The
greater part of the house was taken down
some years back.
Orleans House. — " A messuage parcel
of the Manor of Twickenham," was in
1567 leased for 22 years to Sir Thomas
Newenham. In 1622 Andrew Pitcairne,
groom of the bed-chamber, had a lease of
it for 30 years. In the Parliamentary
Survey, 1650, it is described as " a plea
sant and delightful tenement, about 20
poles from the river, built partly with
brick, and partly with timber, and
Flemish wall, with comely chambers." lt
had 16 acres of cherry gardens ; and not
only were the gardens " rare for pleasure,
but exceedingly profitable, being planted
with cabbages, turnips, carrots, and
many other such Uke creatures." The
estate was sold to Richard Ell, but
resumed by the Crown at the Restoration.
In 1671 a short lease was granted to
Mrs. Jane Davies, who obtained several
renewals of it. She lent her house in
1694 — refusing to accept any rental — to
the Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne,
her son the Duke of Gloucester requiring
change of air. Early in the 18th-century
Mrs. Davies made over her interest in.the
property to James Johnstone, Esq., Secre
tary of State for Scotland, who greatly
improved the house, built the Octagon
Room against a visit he received from
Queen Caroline, and continued to reside
here till his death, at the age of 90, in
1737. Secretary Johnstone's house was
famous. De Foe, we have seen, thought
it made " much the brightest figure here."
His further account of it is curious : —
" Secretary Johnstone's house may be- more
properly called a plantation, being in the middle
betwixt his pasture, his kitchen-garden, his fruit-
garden, and his pleasure garden and wilderness.
The house is exactly after the model of the country
seats in Lombardy, being of two galleries, with
rooms going otf on each side. His gallery on the
ground-floor makes a hall, fronting the pleasure-
garden, and a parlour fronting the pasture ; which,
when the doors are open, gives you a delicious
prospect of the whole : and on each side are 5
rooms more, adorned with a very good collection
of pictures ; and in the division betwixt the hall
and parlour on each side, is a stair-case that leads
you up to the gallery above, containing the same
number of rooms. His fine Octagon for the enter
tainment of his friends, at the end of his green
house, I think is too high for his house, and I
think very much spoils the symmetry of it. . . .
He has the best collection of fruit of all sorts,
of most gentlemen in England. His slopes for his

TWICKENHAM.

630

TWICKENHAM.

vines, of which he makes some hogsheads a year
are very particular ; and Dr. Bradley, of the Royal
Society, who hath wrote so much about gardening,
ranks Mm amongst the first-rate gardeners in
England." *
On Secretary Johnstone's death the lease
was bought by George Morton Pitt,
formerly Governor of Fort St. George.
It was afterwards the property and resi
dence of Lord Brownlow Bertie, and then
of Sir George Pococke, who made many
alterations in the house and grounds, and
connected the octagon room with the
main building by a long corridor.
The next occupant of mark introduces
a new and foreign source of interest, as
well for Twickenham as for the mansion.
In 1800, Louis Philippe, then Due
d'Orleans, and his brothers, the Due de
Montpensier and the Comte deBeaujolois,
after many adventures and vicissitudes in
various parts of the world, met together
in London for the first time since their
exile from France in 1793 ; and shortly
after the Duke took Mr. Pococke's house
at Twickenham as a residence for himself
and his brothers. Here they continued
to live till the death of the Due de
Montpensier, Jan. 1807, when the health
of Comte de Beaujolois showing like
symptoms of decline, the Duke carried
him to Malta, where he died in 1808.
The Duke then removed to Palermo,
where he remained till he obtained per
mission to return to France in 1814. The
foUowing year he was again an exile,
when he rejoined his family at Twicken
ham, where he continued till he was
recalled to France in 1817. The house,
thenceforth to be known as Orleans House,
became some years later the residence of
the Earl of Kilmorey, who, in 1846, pur
chased the Crown interest in it for £8590.
Once more an exile in England, and the
apparently firm seat of Napoleon III. on
the French throne rendering his early
recall to France hopeless, Louis Philippe
yearned after his old home at Twickenham,
and in 1852 he succeeded in purchasing
it of Lord Kilmorey for £23,000. The
ex-king was comfortably housed at
Claremont, and Orleans House became
the residence of his son the Due d'Aumale,
who during his long occupancy — 1852-71
— improved the building, erected a spacious
* De Foe, A Journey through England, 8vo, 1722,
vol. i., p. 63.

picture gallery, remodelled the interior, and
filled it with a noble collection of ancient
and modern pictures, drawings, minia
tures, enamels, MSS., and choice printed
books and articles of taste. Other mem
bers of the Orleans family settled around
Orleans House — the Comte de Paris at
York House, the Prince de Joinville at
Mount Lebanon, and the Due de Nemours
at Bushey Park, and many of their friends
in the vicinity ; and thus for some years
Twickenham was the great Orleans centre
towards which the attention of their
adherents was at all times directed. The
house is a large and stately brick mansion
with an oriel centre, and a long wing
carried to the octagon tower at the W.
The grounds are richly timbered, and
contain some splendid cedars. Orleans
House has, it is announced (May 1876),
been taken for a residence by Don Carlos
of Spain.
York House (originally York Place)
stands directly E. of the ch., with its
principal front facing the Thames, in
charming and finely timbered grounds of
nearly 7 acres. The house is of brick,
with a high-pitched roof, of about the
end of the 16th century, but it has been
altered and enlarged, and during the
occupancy of the Comte de Paris was
fitted up in a style befitting a royal abode.
It appears to have been , given to Lord
Chancellor Clarendon on the public an
nouncement of his daughter's marriage
with James Duke of York. Clarendon
made it his summer residence, and
whilst attending the King at Hampton
Court, he mentions that he was in the
habit of coming home every night to his
house at Twickenham. It was also an
occasional residence of the Duke of York,
or retreat of the Duchess, as here the
Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne was
born, Feb. 1664 : a large room on the first
floor retains the name of Queen Anne's
Room. On Lord Clarendon's death, York
House passed to his second son, Lawrence
Hyde, Earl of Rochester. In 1740 it was
sold to James Whitchurch, and on his
death to Lieut.-Col. Webber. About the
end of the cent, it became the property
and residence of Prince Stahremberg,
the Austrian minister, who made it gay
with plays and festivals. In 1817 it was
purchased by Mrs. Damer, who removed
hither her sculptor's tools, marbles, and

TWICKENHAM.

631

TWICKENHAM.

models, and built for herself a studio at the
E. end of the house, in which she chipped
away during the summer months, remov
ing to Park Lane in the winter. She had
numerous friends about her, and the
Queen used occasionaUy to call and watch
her at work. Her studio is the conserva
tory of the present York House. Mrs.
Damer bequeathed the house to her niece,
Lady Johnstone (widow of Sir Patrick
Johnstone), and the house had among
others the Duchess Dowager of Roxburgh
and Lord Lonsdale for tenants. It was
purchased of the Misses Johnstone,
August 1864, by the Due d'Aumale, for his
nephew, the Comte de Paris, who made it
his residence till he returned to France,
with the other Orleans princes, in 1871.
The house underwent many alterations for
the Comte de Paris. The state or reception
rooms comprised a great saloon 34 ft. 6 in.
by 26 ft., a dining room 30 ft. by 21 ft.,
three drawing rooms openmg into each
other and to the conservatory, two
Ubraries, etc. Since the Prince's return
to France, York House has been unoccu
pied. Mount Lebanon, late the residence of
the Prince de Joinville, is a handsome
modern mansion facing the river, between
York House and Orleans House. The
original house was that in which lived
Dr. WilUam Fuller, Pepys's " dear friend,"
who during the Commonwealth period
kept a school at Twickenham ; after the
Restoration was made Dean of St. Patrick's,
Bp. of Limerick, 1663, -ind Bp. of Lincoln,
1667. The house was bought by Thomas
Earl of Strafford in 1701, and on the death
of the 2nd Earl (Horace Walpole's cor
respondent) it became the property of
his sister, Lady Anne Conoliy, who puUed
down the old house and built the present
mansion on its site. On her decease it
passed to her daughter, the Viscountess
Howe. It then became the residence of
the Miss Byngs, and after the death of
Miss Fanny Byng, of the Duchess Dowager
of Northumberland, who bestowed on it
the name of Mount Lebanon, perhaps from
the cedars which form so remarkable a fea
ture in the grounds. She died in 1866, and
the house became shortly after the resi
dence of the Prince de Joinville, and so
continued till 1871. Like York House,
Mount Lebanon is unoccupied, and " the
lease to be sold," (May 1876).

Twickenham Park, at the junction of
the par. with Isleworth, below Richmond
Bridge, laid claim to the highest antiquity
among the Twickenham demesnes. The
Conqueror himself, it was asserted, had a
residence there. According to the larger
Ordnance Map, it was in Twickenham
Park, and not in Isleworth, as generally
supposed, the Barons encamped in 1263.
Here in 1415 was founded the Bridgetine
convent of Syon, removed some years
later to the larger house at Isleworth
(see p. 378). Henry VIII., one authority
avers, "had an occasional residence " at
Twickenham Park. What is certain is
that there was a mansion here in the
16th century, and that the Bacon family
had a lease of it as early as 1574. Francis
Bacon was dwelling at Twickenham Park
in 1592, when he received a visit from
Queen Elizabeth, and, whilst disclaiming
any pretension to the title of poet, pre
sented Her Majesty with a sonnet in com
mendation of the Earl of Essex. It has
been said that Twickenham was given to
Bacon by Essex ; but the property, as
already noted, had been for some time
held by the family. Bacon obtained a
renewal of the lease to himself in 1595,
and the fee-simple the following year.
He greatly enjoyed the beauty and quiet
of his Thames-side estate — •" that whole
some pleasant lodge and finely designed
garden," as he terms it in writing to his
brother Anthony,* — but his pecuniary
needs were pressing, and he sold it, not
long after he became its owner, for what
even then must have been the inadequate
price of £1800. t His thoughts however
reverted to Twickenham with a feeUng of
regret even in his latest years. Thus in
his MS. Instructions to Thomas Bushell J
respecting the project for a corporation
for exploring deserted mineral works, he
writes, " Let Twitnam Park, which I sold
in my younger days, be purchased, if pos
sible, for a residence for such deserving
persons to study in, since I experimentally
found the situation of that place much
convenient for the trial of my philoso
phical conclusions."
Leases were afterwards granted to
various persons, but the first name to

* Bacon Papers, vol. i., p. 4S'i
t Cobbett, Memorials of Twickenham, p. 232.
t Quoted by Lysons, vol. ii., p. 775.

TWICKENHAM.

632

TWICKENHAM.

arrest attention is that of Lucy Countess
of Bedford, the patroness of Ben Jonson,
Donne, Daniel, and most worthy wits
and poets of her time. She lived here till
1618, when she gave Twickenham Park
to Sir WiUiam Harrington, who, three
years after, sold it to Mary Countess of
Home. The remainder of the lease was
alienated in 1640 to Sir Thomas Nott ; by
him in 1659 to Henry Murray, who, in
1668, transferred it to John Lord Berkeley
of Stratton — so named from Stratton
Fight, and who gave his name to Berkeley
Square and Berkeley Street, and Stratton
Street, Piccadilly. Lord Berkeley died
here in 1678, and was buried in Twicken
ham ch. His widow, 20 years later, was
laid beside her husband. Twickenham
Park was sold in 1685 to the Earl of
Cardigan, and by him in 1698 to the
Earl of Albemarle, who in 1702 trans
ferred it to Thomas Vernon, secretary to
the Duke of Monmouth. It was bought
in 1743 by the Earl of Monteath, whose
widow, in 1766, bequeathed the use of it
in succession to the Duchess of Montrose
and the Duchess of Newcastle, with
reversion to Lord Frederick Cavendish,
and remainder to Sir Wm. Abdy. It
curiously illustrates the insecure condition
of the vicinity of London less than a
century ago, that Horace Walpole in
visiting the Duchess of Montrose with
Lady Browne, Oct. 5, 1781, had his car
riage stopped at the gate of Twickenham
Park by a highwayman at 7 o'clock in the
evening, and was robbed of his purse and
9 guineas. Lady Browne lost her purse
also, but her's was a purse with only " bad
money, which she carried on purpose."*
Nor did Twickenham speedily become
more secure. Just a year later he wrote,
" I cannot now stir a mile from my own
house [Strawberry Hill] after sunset with
out one or two servants with blunder-
busses."f Lord Frederick Cavendish was owner
and occupant of the house when Angus's
view of it was published, Jan. 1, 1795.
From this it appears to have been a very
large and stately structure of red brick
and stone ; the principal front, facing
the W., of 3 storeys above the ground
floor, with 11 windows in each, the
* Walpole to Lady Ossory, Oct. 7, 1781.
+ Walpole to the Earl of Strafford, Oct. 3, 1782.

centre having a portico and pediment,
and that and the wings being slightly
advanced. It contained " several hand
some apartments, with a noble staircase,
painted in a similar manner to that at
Windsor Castle." It also contained " some
good pictures." On the death of Lord
Frederick Cavendish the estate passed to
Sir Wm. Abdy, by whom it was, in 1805,
divided into lots and sold, the greater
part being purchased by F. GostUng, Esq.
Shortly after the house was taken down ;
villas were built ; and the process has
gone on until Twickenham Park has
become a village of villas and genteel
residences. In the meadows between Twickenham
Park and Orleans House are several
houses of mark. Cambridge House, the
first from the bridge foot, was built by
Sir Humphry Lynd — a noted controver
sialist — early in the 17th cent. It was
next the residence of Joyce Countess of
Totness, who died in it in 1636 ; after
wards became the property and seat of
Sir Joseph Aske ; and was in 1751 pur
chased by Richard Owen Cambridge,
author of the ' Scribleriad.' Mr. Cambridge
was a man of unusual accompUshments
and social charm, and his Twickenham
villa was a favourite resort of the most
distinguished among his contemporaries.
Boswell refers with unusual warmth to
his " beautiful villa on the banks of the
Thames," his " numerous and excellent
library," his " extensive circle of friends
and acquaintance distinguished by rank,
fashion, and genius," and his " colloquial
talents rarely to be found ; " and one of
the pleasantest chapters in his book is
that in which he relates his ride with
Johnson to Mr. Cambridge's viUa, where
the doctor was " solaced with an elegant
entertainment, a very accomplished family,
and much good company" — as may very
well be beUeved, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Gib
bon the historian, and Hermes Harris being
of the number.* Mr. Cambridge lived to
enjoy his villa and the society of his
friends for more than a quarter of a cen
tury after Johnson's visit, dying there in
his 86th year, in Sept. 1802. It was
afterwards for awhile the residence of
his son, Achdeacon Cambridge, who, how-
* Boswell, Life of Johnson, 1775, vol. v., p. 08
etc., ed. 1835.

TWICKENHAM.

633

TWICKENHAM.

ever, built for himself a smaller house
somewhat to the S. Cambridge House
then became the residence of Lord Mount-
Edgcumbe. Later it was purchased by
Henry Bevan, Esq., who, with Mr. Vul
liamy as his architect, remodelled the
house, and enriched the grounds. Cam
bridge House is now the seat of his
daughter, Lady Chichester, relict of Lord
John Chichester. Meadowbank, erected
by Archdeacon Cambridge, is now the
residence of George Bishop, Esq., whose
private observatory has acquired universal
celebrity on account of the important
observations and discoveries made in it
under its distinguished superintendent,
John Russell Hind, F.R.S., who resides
at Meadow Lodge. On the meadows, in
Owen Cambridge's day all open, has
sprung up, as in Twickenham Park, a
nest of villas, which has received the
name of Cambridge Park, and a hand
some church has been built within it for
the service of the two parks.
Four or five hundred yards W. of
Meadowbank, and a very conspicuous
object from the Thames, is Marble Hill,
" a house," as Swift writes, " built by
Mrs. Howard, then of the bed-chamber,
now Countess of Suffolk, and groom of
the stole to the Queen. . . . Mr. Pope
was the contriver of the gardens, Lord
Herbert (Earl of Pembroke) the archi
tect, and the Dean of St. Patrick's (Swift)
chief butler and keeper of the ice-house."
The house was built for Mrs. Howard by
the king, George IL, at a cost of £12,000 ;
but, never liberal in money matters, he
was possibly behindhand in his advances,
as Swift in his ' Pastoral Dialogue between
Richmond Lodge and Marble HiU,' written
in June 1727, makes the lady's viUa
predict that its mistress wUl be ruined
by the outlay; the house is unfinished,
her pockets are empty.
" And now she will not have a shilling
To raise the stairs, or build the ceiling."
The house will have to be sold to " some
South-sea broker from the City," who
will lay aU the fine plantations waste, and
" No more the Dean, that grave divine,
Shall keep the key of my (no) wine ;
My ice-house rob as heretofore.
And steal my artichokes no more ;
Nor Patty Blunt no more be seen
Bedraggled in my walks so green ;
Plump Johnny Gay will now elope ;^
And here no more will dangle Pope.';

However, the house was finished in course
of time, and Mrs. Howard, now Countess
of Suffolk, quitted the Court in 1735,
"married Mr. George Berkeley and out
lived him," and for the remainder of her
days spent her summers at Marble Hill,
"Uving very retired both there and in
London."* On her death, July 1767,
Marble Hill became the property and
residence of the Earl of Buckinghamshire,
who bequeathed it to Miss Hotham. From
her it was rented by Mrs. Fitzherbert,
whose irregular marriage ceremony with
the Prince of Wales, afterwards George
IV., it has been said was performed here ;
but her relative and confidential friend,
Lord Stourton, states that it occurred " in
her own drawing-room in her house in
town,"*f i.e., in Park Lane, 1785. She
was at Marble Hill at the time of the
Prince's marriage with the Princess Caro
line, 1795. Marble Hill next became the
residence of Lady Bath ; then of Mr. C.
A. Tulk ; and afterwards of the Marquis
of Wellesley, who left it about 1824. It
was shortly after purchased by Col., now
the Rt. Hon. Lieut.- General J. Peel, whose
seat it now is.
A short distance E. was a cottage known
as Little Marble Hill, which was occupied
by Mrs. Clive until she removed to Little
Strawberry Hill. On its site a much
more pretentious mansion was built by
Mr. Daniel Giles, when it appears to have
been known as Twickenham Meadows.
Afterwards, as Spencer Grove, it became
the residence of Lady Diana Beauclerk,
when it became celebrated alike on account
of the elegance with which she fitted it
up and the parties she assembled there.
Several of the rooms were decorated by
her ladyship's own pencil, and Horace
Walpole never tired of applauding the
taste and skill she displayed. One room
particularly delighted him : " It is nothing
but a row of Ulacs in festoons on green
paper, but executed in as great a style as
Michael Angelo would have done for a
Pope's villa." % Spencer Grove was after
wards the residence of Lady Tollemache
and of Miss Hotham. It was then pur
chased by Sir John Lubbock ; was for a
time a residence of the Duke of Mon-
* H. Walpole, Reminiscences of the Courts of
George I. and II., chap viii.
+ Langdale, Memoirs of Mrs. Fitzherbert, p. 43.
{ H. Walpole to Rev. W. Mason, Ang. 4, 1782.

TWICKENHAM.

634

TWICKENHAM.

trose ; then of Mr. Kirby, and has since
been unoccupied.
West of Marble Hill was another noted
villakin, Ragman's Castle, which had
been the residence successively of Lady
Falkland (1635), John Duke of Montague,
and the Dowager Lady Pembroke, when it
was purchased in 1755 by Mr.-. Pritchard,
the famous actress, who spent a great
deal of money in its improvement and
decoration. After her decease, 1758, it
was occupied by the Earl of Cholmon-
' deley, Lady Lane, and Sir C. Warwick
Bamfield. In 1783 it became the resi
dence of George Hardinge, author of
' Letters to Burke,' and a man well known
in social and political circles. To him
succeeded, 1810, Jeremiah Dyson, Mr.
H. Cole, Major Jelf Sharp. The house,
in its latter days known as Lamm Cottage,
was taken down by Lord KUmorey in
1850, and the garden . thrown into the
grounds of Orleans House.
Continuing along the river, and passing
Orleans House, York House, and the
church, we come to Richmond House, or
as it appears to have been called origi
nally Richmonds, a good-sized mansion
with its front to the Thames, opposite
the W. end of Eel Pie Island. It was
for many years the residence of Francis
Newport, 2nd Earl of Bradford, a promi
nent politician in the reigns of Charles II.
and James IL, who died here in 1708,
when it passed, with the fine coUection
of pictures which he had formed in it, to
his second son, Lord Torrington. It was
sold in 1740, by Lord Torrington's widow,
to Anthony Viscount Montague, who four
years later sold it to Anthony Keck. In
1766 it was purchased by Mary Countess
Dowager, of Shelburne, who bequeathed
it to her second son, the Hon. Thomas
Fitzmaurice. Subsequent owners were
Mr. John Symmons, 1791 ; Mrs. Allan-
son, 1792 ; the Countess Dowager of Elgin,
who died in it in 1810; and Lady De
Crespigny. The old house was then taken
clown, and a new one built on its site, in
1816, for Mrs. Lionel Dawson Damer, the
cousin of Mrs. Damer the sculptor. It
was enlarged and brought to its present
size and appearance in 1829, for the
Countess Dowager of Roxburgh and her
husband, the Hon. John Tollemache.
Later it was the residence of Lord Lowth,
du Henry Willock, Lady Ann Murray,

Sir Edward Blakeney, and is now the
seat of George Gordon Mackintosh, Esq.
Poulet Lodge, immediately beyond Rich
mond House, occupies the site of the villa
of M. Chauvigny, the French ambassador,
which was burnt down in June 1734.
The present house, of very formal aspect.
was built by Dr. Batty, a physician of
eminence in his day. After his death it
became the property and residence of
Vere, 3rd Earl of Poulet ; on the decease
of whose widow it became the residence
of Walpole's "horror," Mrs. Osbaldeston;
then successively of Lord Cardigan, Col.
Webb, another Countess Poulet, and after
her death, in 1838, of various undistin
guished persons. It is now the residence
of W. H. Punchard, Esq., who has greatly
improved it. The long low back front
lies open to the road at Cross Deep, a
Uttle N. of Pope's Villa.
Riversdale, the next house, the property
of Lord Clifden, was in 1808 leased by
Lady Monson, who greatly enlarged it ;
afterwards by G. H. Drummond, Esq.,
Lord Uxbridge, and Lord Cawdor. It is
now the residence of the Misses Young.
Pope's Villa. — We are thus brought,
at length, to the residence of the poet who
has made Twickenham famous wherever
English literature has reached. Pope's
Villa stood about 200 yards beyond Rivers-
dale ; the entrance was in the road from
Twickenham to Teddington. Pope took
a lease of the house, with about 5 acres
of ground, shortly after his father's death
in 1717, and lived here tiU his own death
in 1744. The villa, or villakin, as Swift
called it, was much smaller when Pope
took it than he left it. In 1717 it com
prised only a central hall, with two small
parlours on each side, and corresponding
rooms above. He left it a brick centre
of 4 floors, with wings of 3 floors — each
storey with a single light towards the
Thames. Of the contents of the house some idea
may be obtained. There were at least
two portraits of Lord Bolingbroke (one
by Richardson) ; three drawings of statues
in monochrome by Kneller of the Hercules
Farnese, the Venus de' Medici, and the
Apollo Belvedere ; marble busts of Homer
by Bernini; of Sir Isaac Newton by
Guelfi ; and four of Spenser, Shakspeare,
Milton, and Dryden, a present to Pope
from Frederick Prince of Wales, and now

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633

TWICKENHAM.

at Hag-ley, having been bequeathed to
Lord Lyttolton by the poet.
The space between the river and the
house was occupied by a lawn, fenced and
concealed from a tanner's yard on one
side, from the low houses on the other
by a hedge and background of trees.
The hedge on the London side was curved
towards the river, decorated with terminal
busts, and with an alcove commanding a
view up the river, and of the gentle
scenery of Surrey towards Kingston and
Esher. Over against the alcove, on the
other side, stood a large wUlow — the
second weeping willow planted in Eng
land. Beneath the house and the high
road to Teddington, the poet constructed
a tunnel as a means of communication
between the lawn and the garden, which
was on the other side of the road, Uned it
with " spars, minerals, and marbles," and
made it for ever famous as
"The Aegerian grot
Where, nobly pensive, St. John sat and thought ;
Where British sighs from dying Wyndham stole,
And the bright flame was shot through March-
mont's soul."
A small obelisk with an inscription to
his mother — " Matrem optima, Mulierum
amantissima" — terminated the garden
vista. Pope was fond of his garden and proud
of it; and not without reason. Though
of smaU size, Uke that of Alcinous, and
of awkward shape, he contrived with the
aid of Bridgman and Kent, the great
professional gardeners, and Lord Peter
borough and other eminent amateurs, to
twist and twirl it into one of the prettiest
gardens in England. He was the first to
break through the Dutch formality of
Hampton Court, and to revert to a more
natural style. Gardening, he says, is more
antique and nearer to God's own work
than poetry. He worked and planned,
and got his friends to work with him.
His letters and his verses are full of his
gardening and his grotto-making.
" I am as busy in three inches of gardening as
any man can be in three-score acres. I fancy
myself like the fellow that spent his life in cutting
the twelve apostles in a cherry stone. I have
a Theatre, an Arcade, a Bowling-green, a Grove,
and what not ? in a bit of ground that would have
been but a plate of sallet to Nebuchadnezzar the
first day he was turned to graze." *
* Pope to Lord Strafford, Oct. 5, 1723.

"I have turfed a little Ijiid^maimiek theatre
myself. It was dune by a detachment of his
LBriilyman's] workmen fur the Princes' visit, all
at a stroke, and it is yet unpaid for, but that is
nothing with a poetical genius." "**
'- And he t whose lightning piere'd th' Iherian
lines,
Now forms my quincunx, and now ranks luy
vines ;
Or tames the genius of the stubborn plain,
Almost as quickly as he conquer'd Spain." f
"Mr. Pope undoubtedly contributed to form his
[Kent's] taste. The design of the Prince i >f Wales's
garden at Carlton House, was evidently liorrowed
from the poet's at Twickenham. There was a
Httle of affected modesty in the latter, when he
said, of all his works he was most proud of his
garden. And yet it *\\ lis a singular effort of art
and taste to impress so much variety and scenery
on a spot of five acres. The passing through the
gloom from the Grotto to the opening day, the
retiring and again assembling shades, the dusky
groves, the larger lawn, and the solemnity of the
termination of the cypresses that led up to his
mother's tomb, are managed with exquisite judg
ment; aud though Lord Peterborough assisted
him " To form his quincunx and to rank his vines,"
those were not the most pleasing ingredients of his
little perspective. " §
Pope's success in landscape gardening
was not due to a happy chance. The
arrangement of his lawns, hedges, trees,
and avenues was with him a serious
occupation, as is evident from many
passages in his letters. He explained
his principles most distinctly perhaps to
Spence :
4 ' The lights and shades in gardening are managed
by disposing the thick grove work, the thin, and
the openings, in a proper manner : of which the eye
is generally the properest judge. — Those clumps
of trees are like the groups in pictures (speaking
of some in his own garden). —You may distance
things by darkening them and by narrowing the
plantation more and more towards the end, in the
same manner as they do in painting, and as 'tis
executed in the little cypress walk to that obelisk. "||
The Grotto which figures so largely in
the Letters and Poems was formed by
lining the tunnel under the Teddington
road with shells, spars, and minerals,
which were liberally furnished for this
purpose by his friends. The most lavish
contributor was Borlase the Curnish anti
quary, who was indefatigable in searching

* Pope to Lord Oxford, 22 March, 1726.
+ Lord Peterborough.
t Pope, Satires and Epistles, Sat. i.
§ Horace Walpole (On Modem Gardening), Anec
dotes, vol. iv., p. 2'J5.
il Spence, Anecdotes, Singer's ed. , p. 209.

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636

TWICKENHAM.

out. and forwarding the choicest marbles,
serpentines, and stalactites, spars and
crystals to be found in Cornwall ; and
Pope showed his gratitude by setting up
his friend's name in ( large gold letters in
a conspicuous part of the grotto — much to
the bewilderment of visitors. The Duchess
of Cleveland was also a large contributor,
and Sir Hans Sloane offered freely of the
stores in his museum. Pope's description
of the grotto is well known, but a portion
of it must be given : —
"I have put the last hand to my works of this
kind, in happily finishing the subterraneous way
and grotto : I there found a spring of the clearest
water, which falls in a perpetual rill, that echoes
thro' the cavern day and night. From the river
Thames, you see thro' my arch up a walk of the
wilderness, to a kind of open Temple, wholly com-
pos'd of shells in the rustic manner ; and from
that distance under the temple you look down
thro' a sloping arcade of trees, and see the sails on
the liver passing suddenly and vanishing, as thro'
a perspective glass. When you shut the doors of
this grotto, it becomes on the instant, from a
luminous room, a Camera obscura ; on the walls
of which all the objects of the river, hills, woods,
and boats, are forming a moving picture in their
visible radiations ; and when you have a mind to
light it up, it affords you a very different scene ;
it is finished with shells interspersed with pieces
of looking-glass in angular forms ; and in the
deling is a star of the same material, at which
when a lamp (of an orbicular figure of thin ala
baster) is hung in the middle, a thousand pointed
rays glitter and are reflected over the place. There
are connected to this grotto by a narrower passage
two porches, one towards the river of smooth
stones full of light, and open ; the other toward
the Garden shadow'd with trees, rough with shells,
flints, and iron-ore. The bottom is paved with
3imple pebble, as is also the adjoining walk up the
wilderness to the temple, in the natural taste,
agreeing not ill with the little dripping murmur,
and the aquatic idea of the whole place. It wants
nothing to compleat it but a good statue with an
inscription, like that beautiful antique one which
you know I am so fond of." *
" The improving and finishing his
Grotto," writes Warburton, in a note to
Pope's verses ' On his Grotto at Twicken
ham,' "was the favourite amusement of
his declining years ; and the beauty of his
poetic genius, in the disposition and orna
ments of this romantic recess, appears to
as much advantage as in his best con
trived poems." Be that as it may, and
few are likely to accept the bishop's
dictum, the poet lived to finish his grotto,
and to experience a feeling of vacuity
when it was finished.
' ( Spence. I pity you, Sir, because yoti have
* Pope to Edw. Blount, June 2, 1725.

[1743] completed everything belonging to your
garden.— Pope. Why, I really shall be at a loss
for the diversion I used to take in laying out and
finishing things. I have now nothing left me to
do, but to add a little ornament or two at the line
to the Thames." *
Pope spent some £5000 on his improve
ments. He was only a tenant, and he
had some thoughts of becoming the owner
when the property was for sale, but he
looked about in vain for a friend to whom
he might leave it, who would be likely to
live in it and preserve it unchanged. If
Rurfhead may be trusted, he thought of
bequeathing it to Mr. Murray, afterwards
Lord Mansfield ; " but when he found by
the growing fame and rising reputation
of his friend, that it was never likely to
be of any use to him, he laid aside that
purpose."! " My landlady, Mrs. Vernon being dead, the
house and garden are offered to me in sale ; and I
believe (together with the cottages on each side my
grass plot next the Thames) will come at about a
£1000. If I thought any very particular friend
would be pleased to live in it after my death (for as
it is it serveB all my purposes as well during life)
I would purchase it ; and more particularly could
I hope two things : that the friend who should
like it, was so much younger and healthier than
myself, as to have a prospect of its continuing his
some years longer than I am of its continuing mine.
But most of those I love are travelling out of the
world not into it ; and unless I have such a view
given me, I have no vanity nor pleasure that does
not stop short of the grave. "J
" As to my mines and my treasures they must go
together to God knows who ! A sugar-broker or a
brewer may have the house and garden, and a
booby that chanced to be my heir at law the other :
except I happen to dispose it to the poor in my own
time."§ After Pope's death (1744) his villa was
sold to Sir Wm. Stanhope, brother to the
Earl of Chesterfield, who added wings to
the house, and enlarged and improved
the garden — greatly to the disgust of
Walpole : —
" I must tell you aprivate woe that has happened
to me in my neighbourhood — Sir William Stanhope
bought Pope's house and garden. The former was
so small and bad, one could not avoid pardoning
his hollowing out that fragment of the rock Par
nassus into habitable chambers— but would you
believe it, he has cut down the sacred groves them
selves ! In short, it was a little bit of ground of
five acres, enclosed with three lanes, and seeing
nothing. . Pope had twisted and twirled, and

* Spence, Anecdotes, p. 273.
¦f- Ruffhead, Life of Pope, 1769, p. 402.
J Pope to Bethel, March 20, 1743.
§ Pope to Allen, n.d., Ruifhead's Life of Pope,
p. 199.

TWICKENHAM.

637

TWICKENHAM.

rhymed and harmonised this, till it appeared two
or three sweet little lawns opening and opening
heyond one auother, and the whole surrounded
with tliiok impenetrable woods. Sir William, by
ailvioe of his son-in-law, Mr. Ellis, has hacked
and hewed these groves, wriggled a winding gravel
walk through them with an edging of shrubs, in
what they call the modem taste, and in short, has
desired the three lanes to walk in again — and now
is forced to shut them out again by a wall, for
there was not a Muse could walk there but she
was spied by every country fellow that went by
with a pipe in his mouth. " *
Mr. Welbore Ellis (afterwards Lord
Mendip) came into possession of the
house after Sii- Win. Stanhope's death,
and made it his residence, priding himself
on preserving whatever was left of Pope's
unaltered. The loss of the famous willow,
which died in 1801, was his chief trouble
that way. Cuttings of it had been sent
to St. Petersburg in 1789, at the request
of the Empress of Eussia ; and now the
dead trunk was converted into Popeian
relics. At Lord Mendip's death, the pro
perty was sold by auction to Sir John
Briscoe, and on liis death in 1807 to the
Baroness Howe.
The Baroness was the daughter of Ad
miral Lord Howe, the hero of " the
glorious 1st of June," and inherited his
title. Widow of the Hon. P. A. Curzon,
she took for her second husband the court
oculist, Dr. Phipps, who was made a
baronet, and on his promotion emerged
from his plebeian chrysalis as Sir Wathen
Waller. The lady knew not Pope, and
was annoyed by his admirers coming to
her place to ask after his house and
gardens. She razed the house, therefore,
stubbed up the trees, and destroyed what
ever was his. " We went into Pope's back
garden," wrote Miss Berry in her journal,
Nov. 21, 1807, "and saw the devastation
going on upon his quincunx by its now
possessor Baroness Howe. The anger and
ill-humour expressed against her for pull
ing down his abode and destroying his
grounds, much greater than one would
have imagined. " The Baroness built herself
a new house, not on the site of the poet's,
but a hundred yards to the N. of it, ab
sorbing in the process the house in which
Hudson the painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds's
master, used to live. The Baroness gave
lawn-parties which were very attractive,
and on the 1st of June a silver cup to be
* Horace Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, June 20,
1760 : Letters, vol. iii., p. 318.

rowed for in honour of her father's vic
tory, when Sir Wathen Waller used to be
exhibited on the lawn decorated with all
the Admiral's stars and medals.* They
in their turn passed away, and in the
beginning of 1840 " Pope's Villa" — though
Pope's Villa had long ceased to exist —
was announced for sale. But no one
would buy the counterfeit, and shortly
after the "building materials" were dis
posed of by auction. A portion of the
Baroness's house was however saved, and
turned into two small dwellings.
Pope feared his house and garden might
pass to " some sugar-broker or brewer ; "
the new owner was a tea-merchant, Mr.
Thos. Young, who first proposed to rein
state the poet's house by building a fac
simile of it ; but changing his mind erected
the present grotesque structure — distin
guishable by its odd Chinese-Gothic tower
— which if it bears no resemblance to the
poet's house, at least preserves the name
of Pope's Villa. It does not stand quite
on the site of Pope's house, but is nearer
to it than was the Baroness Howe's. The
Grotto remains, or rather the tunnel, for
it has been despoiled of all its rare mar
bles, spars, and ores, and is a mere damp
subway. The house next to Pope's was the resi
dence of the Hon. George Shipley, and
was known as Spite Hall, from its having
been built for the purpose of intercepting
the view of the Thames from Shipley's
opposite neighbour : —
" The people here have christened Mr. Shipley's
new house Spite Hall. It is dismal to think that
one may live to 77, and go out of the world doing
as ill-natured an act as possible, "t
Radnor House, by the river, midway
between Pope's Villa and Strawberry Hill,
was built by the last Earl of Radnor, of
the Robarts family. It was in Lord
Radnor's garden that Pope first met
Warburton, 1740— a meeting of no little
consequence to both of them. The house,
an ungainly attempt at Gothic, and the
grounds, chiefly notable for their whim
sical jumble of statues, obelisks, Chinese
temples, and the like, formed a constant
butt for the sarcasms of Horace Walpole,
whose cant name for them was Mabland.
* Cobbett, Memorials of Twickenham, p. 289.
+ H. Walpole to the Earl of Strafford, Sept. 9,
1780 ; Letters, vol. vii., p. 438.

TWICKENHAM.

638

TWICKENHAM.

After Lord Radnor's death the house was
successively the property and residence
of J. A. Hindley, one of the tellers of
the Exchequer ; Sir Francis Basset ; the
Ladies Murray; Charles Marsh, F.S.A."
and now of A. C. Stearns, Esq. Cross
Deep House, the pleasant-looking man
sion on the opposite side of the Tedding
ton road, has been successively the abode
of J. Ivat Briscoe, Esq., M.P., C. J.
Freake, Esq., W. Vernon Harcourt, M.P.,
and now of Robert Morley, Esq.
Steawbeeby Hill, a little farther S.,
Horace Walpole's famous Gothic castle,
is described under its proper title. Far
ther on, the last house in Twickenham,
on the lower Teddington road, is Little
Strawberry ,
" Where lived the laughter-loving dame
A matchless actress, Clive her name," —
Walpole, to whom it belonged, having
good-naturedly given her the use of it
for life, and christened it Cliveden. She
spent her last years here, liked by every
body, but having her small troubles.
" Have you not heard of the adventures of
your poor Pivey," she writes to Garrick, June
10, 1776; " I have been rob'd and mnrder'd coming
from Kingston. Jimey [her brother, Kaftor] and
I in a post-chey at half -past nine, Just by Tedding
ton church was stopt. I only lost a little silver
and my senses, for one of them come into the
carriage with a great horse pistol to search for my
watch, but I had it not with me," *
This in a populous road, on a Mid
summer evening, just a century ago 1
Kitty died in 1785. In 1791, Walpole let
the house, on the same easy terms, to the
Miss Berrys (his Strawberrys) and their
father ; and later bequeathed it to them
for their lives. Here for a long series of
years they held the quiet little afternoon
parties at which the most distinguished
people delighted to meet.
" When London began to fill, and the season
was at its height, the Miss Berrys used to retire to
a pretty villa at Twickenham, where they received
their friends to luncheon, and strawberries and
cream, and very delightful these visits were in
fine spring weather. I recollect once, after dining
there, to have been fortunate enough to give a
place in my carriage to Lord Macaulay, and those
who remember his charming and brilliant conversa
tion will understand how short the drive to London
appeared." t
After Walpole's death the visits of the
* Walpole's Letters, vol. ix., p. 525.
t Personal Recollections of Mary Somerville, by
her Daughter, 1873, p. 222.

Miss Berrys to the Continent were more
frequent, or their stay lengthened, and
they let Little Strawberry by the year
furnished, first to Prebendary Bell of
Westminster, afterwards (1813) for a term
of 7 years to Alderman Wood. At the
end of his tenancy it was let to Admiral
Bowen, who complained bitterly of " the
ruinous condition in which the alderman
had made it over to him."* The house
has subsequently had no occupant of note,
and none at all for some years. Now the
house looks very dilapidated, and Horace
Walpole's and Kitty Olive's favourite
walk, " Drury-lane," is sadly out of order.
Towards the town, at the corner of
the Teddington road, the site marked by
Messrs. Corbin's coach factory, was a
noble old red-brick mansion, Grove House,
attributed to the inventive genius of Inigo
Jones, and for a time the residence of the
poetical and profligate Philip Duke of
Wharton. Afterwards it was the seat of
James Craggs, the friend of Pope, and to
whom Addison, whom he succeeded as
Secretary of State, dedicated his Collected
Works. The house was pulled down in
1836. On the 1. of the Heath Road, E. of the
rly. bridge, is Saville House (Col. T. G.
Gardiner), a fine old red-brick mansion
with tall roof, where for several years
lived Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who
came here to be near Pope — fast friends
then, too soon to be bitter foes. To her
succeeded Lady Saville, who left her name
to the house, though she changed her own
by marrying Dr. Charles Morton, princi
pal librarian of the British Museum.
Next to it, and nearer the rly. bridge,
is another old red brick mansion, very
similar in style to Saville House, Twick
enham House, for many years the resi
dence of Sir John Hawkins, author of a
voluminous History of Music, and ex
ecutor of Dr. Johnson, of whom he wrote
a Life as dull as Boswell's is brilliant.
It was afterwards the residence and pro
perty of Paul Vaillant, the bookseller of
the Strand ; and is now in the occupation
of Dr. Hugh M. Diamond (known alike
by his professional writings and researches
in photography) as a first-class private
lunatic asylum.
* Miss Berry's Journal and Correspondence
(Journal, Oct. 17, 1818).

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639

TWICKENHAM.

In Back Lane stand the entrance gates
and outbuildings, all that is left, of Copt
Hall, the residence vi John, 11th Earl
of Mar, of Admiral Fox, and of Lady
Conolly. Not far from it stood an old-
fashioned wooden house, which according
to the local tradition was that occupied
by Henry Fielding. Here it is said he
wrote ' Tom Jones ; ' but the date of its
publication makes this doubtful. What is
certain is that his first son by his second
wife was baptized at Twickenham ch. in
1747. and that Fielding left Twickenham
in 1748.* The house has been long pulled
down. On the N. side of Twickenham Common
is Colne Lodge, a good " Italian villa," in
which lived and died (1774) Paul White
head, poet and satirist. (See Tedding
ton.) It was afterwards the residence
of the Countess of Dunmore, and of Miss
Virginia Murray, and is now the seat of
E. H. Donnithorne, Esq., J.P. In an old
mansion which formerly stood on the
Common, Bp. Corbet is said to have lived.
His father had a nursery at Whitton, a
hamlet of Twickenham. (See Whitton.)
Bp. Corbet's Poems were edited in 1807
by Octavius Gilchrist, a native of Twick
enham. In the Richmond Road, on the other
side of the town, opposite Montpelier
Row, is North End House (H. G. Bohn,
Esq.), celebrated for the collections of
pictures, rare books, and mediseval anti
quities — somewhat thinned, however, by
recent sales. In Montpelier Row, at what
was then called Chapel House, now Holy-
rood House, lived (1850) Alfred Tennyson :
his son Hallam was baptised at Twicken
ham ch. in 1852.
We have now come back nearly to our
starting-point, and may end these notices
of remarkable houses with one, in some
respects, not the least remarkable among
them. Somewhat to the N.E. of North
End Lodge, on the 1. of the Isleworth
Road, leading from Richmond Bridge,
opposite the farther entrance lodge to
Twickenham Park, in a narrow lane lead
ing to the Richmond Road, is Sandycombe
Lodge (Miss Beaumont), the house which
Turner, our great landscape painter, then
rapidly rising in fame, built for himself
in 1813, from his own designs. Turner at
* Cobhett, Mem. of Twickenham.

first called it Solus Lodge — perhaps from
its then standing in a somewhat solitary
spot — but altered the name the following
year to Sandycombe.* It is a small house
with small rooms, and not very beautiful,
but has been altered somewhat. It has a
narrow centre, with balcony over a closed
entrance porch, and lower and narrower
wings, but before the Cambridge Park
villas were built had an outlook over the
river from the garden front. Turner lived
here 12 years — the 12 years in which
his genius was most rapidly ripening.
Ruskin rather flouts " Twickenham clas
sicisms," and perhaps with reason. But
Turner learnt something better at Twick
enham. He kept a boat, and spent day
after day on the river, sketching and
studying the water, — surface, colour, and
reflections, — the ever-shifting cloud-forms,
and the morning and evening mists. Here
and in this way it was he learnt, as no
painter had learnt before, the mysteries of
cloud and vapour. The grand landscape
in the National Gallery, ' Crossing the
Brook,' was one of the early fruits of his
Twickenham studies, as the ' View from
Richmond Hill ' was one of the latest.
Some other famous names remain to be
mentioned among the eminent inhabitants
of Twickenham. Sir Godfrey Kneller lived
in the par., but his house was at Whitton,
and will be noticed under that heading.
John Lenthall, the Speaker of the Long
Parliament, had a house here. So it is
said had Robert Boyle, the great natural
philosopher. Lord Bute lived here in
1748. Lady Fanny Shirley, " Fanny
blooming fair," lived at Heath Lane
Lodge. Nicholas Amherst, the author
of ' The Craftsman,' died here in poverty,
1742, and was buried at the expense of
Horace Walpole's printer, Franklin. Daniel
Waterland, D.D., the eminent divine, was
sometime Vicar of Twickenhan. Laetitia
Hawkins, author of some works more
tedious and pompous than even her
father's History of Music, and of some
equally dull and more flippant Anecdotes
of Dr. Johnson, which are still occasion
ally quoted, lived, after her father's death
till her own, in Sion Row.
In one of the Ailsa Park villas, N.W. of
Twickenham Park, lived, in 1838, Charles
Dickens, and there Mr. Forster records,
* Koyal Academy Catalogues for 1814, 1815.

TWICKENHAM.

640

TWICKENHAM.

with Talfourd, Thackeray, Douglas Jer-
rold, Sir Edwin Landseer, Stanfield, and
Maclise, " we had many friendly days." *
Sir Francis Chantrey, the sculptor, was
married at Twickenham ch. to Mary Ann
Wale, Nov. 23, 1809.
In a little cottage on the Staines Road,
pulled down about 1866, lived and taught
one who was in her day a very remarkable
personage — Joanna Southcott, the pro
phetess. Here for some time her followers
flocked to listen to her marvellous pro
mises ; and more than 50 years after her
death (1814), Mr. Cobbett, in the course
of his duties as curate of Twickenham,
" found traces of attachment to her." f
Of Twickenham town there is little to
be said. It is quiet, has an air of pros
perity, and still lingering about it some
thing of the savour of old-world gentility.
Large old-fashioned houses, and low dark
little shops, line the narrow streets, small
private dwellings mingling with both ;
and there are occasional glimpses of the
pleasant river. The ch. stands at the W.
end of the town, by the river-side, and
opposite to it is the large Twickenham
eyot, the well-known Eel-pie Island.
Church Street runs westward into the
broader King Street, the chief street of
the town, which at the farther end divides
into the Teddington Road, running by the
river, and the Heath Road turning inland.
At the eastern extremity of Twickenham,
as already mentioned, is the new district
of villas, Cambridge and Twickenham
Parks, with Ailsa Park running into St.
Margaret's, Isleworth ; while on the
extreme W. is a corresponding, though
less ambitious, new district growing up
about Twickenham Common, Twicken
ham Heath, and Strawberry Vale. The
numerous seats standing in grounds
famous for the size, variety, and beauty
of their trees, impart a distinctive and
attractive character to the village and
its vicinity, and the river all along here is
beautiful. Inland the country is flat and
tame. But though level, it has the reputa
tion of being healthy and favourable to
longevity. There are no manufactures
proper. Nursery and fruit gardens are
on an extensive scale.
Twickenham Church (of the Virgin
* Forster, Life of Charles Dickens, vol, i., p. 157.
t Memorials of Twickenham, p. 345.

Mary) has a brick body and stone tower.
The body of the old ch. fell down in the
night of April 9, 1713. The present ch.,
erected (1713-18) in its place, Sir God
frey Kneller being churchwarden and
John James the architect, is a roomy
red-brick structure, the style a so-called
Tuscan, strangely out of keeping with the
old battlemented Perp. tower on to which
it was joined. The interior is as little
interesting architecturally as the outside.
What historic value it had as a church of
the last years of Anne and the first of
George, the ch. of Kneller and Walpole,
of Kitty Clive and Lady Mary Wortley
Montague, was destroyed by the trans
formation of the interior in 1859 and 1871,
when the stately old galleries were lowered
and re-arranged, the tall pews swept
away, and " the whole area uniformly
reseated with open benches ; " the pulpit
altered, the walls decorated, " a chorus
cantorum in lieu of a chancel " con
structed, the E. windows and the windows
under the gallery darkened with modern
mediseval glass, and the whole as far as
possible brought into conformity with the
current ecclesiastical fashion.
Probably the ch. has been improved for
parochial purposes ; but for the visitor the
only interest the interior now possesses
lies in its monuments, and those they
commemorate. That which will first
attract attention is one of marble on the
E. wall, over the gallery, erected by Pope
to his father (d. 1717, set. 75) and mother
(d. 1733, the insc. says set. 93, but she was
really only 90). On this, by his own
direction, was added an insc. to himself: —
" As to my body, my will is, that it be buried
near the monument of my dear parents at Twicken
ham, with the addition, after the words jilius fecit
— of these only, et sibi : Qui obiit anno 17 — aetatis
—[1744 ffit. 57]— : and that it be carried to the
grave by six of the poorest men of the parish, to
each of whom I order a suit of grey coarse cloth as
mourning." *
The insc. was accordingly added, but in
1 761 Bp. Warburton erected another mont.
with a medallion portrait of the poet on
the N. wall, and placed on it, with more
than questionable taste, Pope's somewhat
incoherent lines, " For one who would not
be buried in Westminster Abbey."
" Heroes and kings your distance keep,
In peace let one poor poet sleep," etc.
* Pope's Last Will (at end of Works).

TWICKENHAM.

641

TWICKENHAM.

When Sir Godfrey Kneller was buried
in Twickenham oh. (1723), Lady Kneller
claimed of Pope the fulfilment of a
promise she asserted he had given to Sir
Godfrey on his death-bed, to take down
his father's monument, that she might
erect one, 8 ft. wide and 14 ft. high, to
her husband, " for it was the best place in
the ch. to be seen at a distance " I " This,"
writes Pope, " surprised me quite. I
hesitated, and said, I feared it would be
indecent, and that my mother must be
asked as well as I." She fell crying, and
Pope was induced to say he would do all
that he could do with decency. On con
sideration, Pope naturally refused to re
move the monument. The Lady tried her
influence with the parochial authorities—
Kneller had been churchwarden of Twick
enham — but they, of course, could not
help her ; then commenced a suit against
the poet, and failed ,- and so Sir Godfrey
lies in Twickenham ch. without any me
morial. The mont. was erected in West
minster Abbey, and Pope wrote the
epitaph for it.
Pope was buried in a vault in the
middle aisle, " under the second pew from
the E. end." Mr. Howett* states that
during some repairs of the ch. the vault
was opened, and Pope's head abstracted
from his coffin, to enrich the museum of a
phrenologist named Holm. But this is
positively denied by Mr. Cobbett on the
authority of the then Vicar of Totten
ham. The coffin having been broken
during the repairs, " a cast of the skull
was taken," but nothing was abstracted.
The skull was reverently restored to its
place, and Mr. Fletcher, the curate, who
watched the whole of the proceedings,
remained " until the whole was restored
and built up." * Whether it should have
been disturbed at all may admit of ques
tion ; but removing the skull to take a
cast from it, and at once restoring it to
its place, and abstracting it altogether,
are very different things.
In the chancel is a mural mont., with
effigies in terra-cotta, coloured, of Francis
Poulton, d. 1642, and wife. The urn, of
veined marble, to Lady Frances Whit-
more, d. 1692, with, on the pedestal, the
fine lines by Dryden, commencing,

* Homes and Haunts of the Poets, p. 115.
t Cobbett, Memorials of Twickenham, p. 279.

*" Fair, kind and true ! a treasure each alone,
A wife, a mistress, and a friend in one,"
which formerly stood in the chancel, was,
at the transformation* of the interior, re
moved to the top landing of the N. stair
case. On E. wall of the S. gallery, correspond
ing in place to Pope's mont. to his parents,
is a tomb, with long insc. in prose and
verse, to John Lord Berkeley of Stratton
(d. 1678), the hero of Stratton Fight, and
" sprung from Danish king * of brightest
fame," who has already been mentioned
as owner of Twickenham Park. Mont.
to Sir Joseph Ashe, Bart., d. 1682. On S.
wall, over the gallery, mural mont. to
Nathaniel Pigott, Barrister at Law, d.
1737. He was a Roman Catholic, and
Pope wrote the epitaph, in which he states
that " possessed of the highest character
by his learning, judgment, experience,
integrity," he was "deprived of the highest
stations only by his conscience and re
ligion." On same wall one to Sir Richard
Perryn, d. 1803, for 23 years one of the
Barons of the Exchequer. Mural, by
Bacon, to George Gostling, Esq., d. 1799.
Admiral Sir Chaloner Ogle, Commander
of the Fleet, d. 1750. Under the mont.
to Pope and bis parents is a slab to
Richard Owen Cambridge, d. 1802. S.
aisle, tablet to Lastitia Matilda Hawking
d. 1835. N. aisle, large slab to Louisa
Viscountess Clifden, d. 1802, and her
daughter, the Hon. Caroline Anne Agar
Ellis, d. 1814. Tablet by Westmacott to
Lady Margaret Wildman, d. 1825.
On the outer wall are tablets to Pope's
nurse and to Kitty Clive. The first was
erected by the poet.
" To the Memory of Mary Beach, who died
Nov. 25, 1725, aged 78. Alex. Pope, whom she
nursed in his infancy, and constantly attended
for twenty-eight years, in gratitude to a faithful
old servant erected this stone."
The mont. to Mrs. Catherine Clive fd.
1758, set. 75) was erected by Miss Pope, the
actress, and has a long poetical insc. by
her : —
" Clive's blameless life this tablet shall proclaim,
Her moral virtues and her well-eam'd fame."
The ch.-yard abounds in tombs, in
cluding those of Selina Countess Dowager
Ferrers, d. 1762 ; Lieut.-Gen. William
Tryon, Governor of the Province of New
York, d. 1788, and other persons of note
in their day, but forgotten now. Admiral
41,

TWICKENHAM.

642

TWYFORD.

Byron (d. 1786), whose ' Narrative of the
Loss of the Wager ' is so well known, was
buried here, but has no mont. Charles
Morton, M.D., F.R.S., Principal Librarian
of the British Museum, and Edward
Ironside, the historian of Twickenham, d.
1813, lie in the new burial-ground.
There are two other churches in Twick
enham, and one at Whitton. The district
ch. of Holy Trinity, on the Green, is an
early Dec. building of white brick and
stone, erected by Mr. Basevi 1839-41, but
enlarged under the direction of Mr. Dol
man in 1863, by the addition of transepts
and an apsidal chancel. In the ch. are
several memorial windows, and tablets to
the memory of Sir Wm. Clay, M.P., and
Lady Clay, late of Fulwell Lodge, on the
Hanworth road.
St. Stephen, Cambridge Park, is a good
ch. of Kentish rag and Bath stone, the
body E.E.. with a large Dec. W. window.
The first stone was laid Sept. 28, 1874, by
the Duchess of Teck, the Patriarch of
Antioch and the Bp. of Jernsalem being
present at the ceremony. It was conse
crated Dec. X, 1875 ; bijt the chancel and
spire remain to be added at a future day.
Among the institutions may be noticed
the Almshouses of the Carpenters' Com
pany, on the Hampton road, a neat and
cheerful looking range of 10 dwellings
with a large garden in front. The Metro
politan and City of London Police Or
phanage is an excellent and well-managed
school, supported almost wholly by the
members of the force. The buildings can
accommodate about 200 ; at present about
150 orphans are maintained.
The large islet opposite Twickenham ch.
is Twickenham Eyot, but is best known
as Eel Pic Island. The islet, 530 yards
long and about 2 acres in area, has from
time immemorial been a favourite resort
of Thames anglers, boat parties, and ex
cursionists, for whose accommodation »
little inn was early established on the
eyot, and in time acquired celebrity for
the dainties which have given the place
its vernacular title. The old Eel Pie
House, a very unassuming but popular
little barn, was pulled down in 1830, and
the present Eel Pie Tavern erected. It is
a much better house, and much in favour
with anglers and boating men : but Eel
Pie Island seems to have lost its old power
of attraction for excursionists.

The river from Twickenham Eyot to
the W. end of the lawn of Pope's villa, 410
yards, forms the Twickenham Deep, and
is strictly preserved nnder the superin
tendence of the Thames Angling Preser
vation Society. It is, a popular deep,
affords excellent fishing, and belonging
to it are half a dozen regular fishermen,
who may be heard of at the King's Head
and George Inns, or the Eel Pie Tavern.
The row of modern villas higher up the
river, by Little Strawberry Hill, marks
the western extremity of Twickenham.
The farthest house is a landmark familiar
to boating men as the Bachelors.

TWYFOBD, or WEST TWY
FORD, Middx. (Dom. Tveverde) is situ
ated upon the river Brent and the Pad-
dington Canal, 2 m. W. of Willesden
Junction Stat, of the L. and N.-W. and
the N. London Rlys., 1| m. N. by E. of
the Ealing Stat, of the Gt. W. Rly. The
country is level, but Twyford is charm
ingly placed among green lanes and broad
meadows on the winding Brent, is in
some respects unique among the parishes
around London, and is well worth visiting.
There is a pleasant walk from Acton or
Ealing to the Fox and Goose, Hanger
Hill (opposite which, notice, growing in
the roadway, a large wild pear tree, a
mass of blossom every spring). Rt. of
the inn, the entrance by a lodge, is the
avenue which leads to Twyford ch. and
Abbey. The name indicates the existence of two
fords over the Brent, here a very tortuous
stream. The prefix West was adopted
to distinguish it from the hamlet of East
Twyford in Willesden par. It is fre
quently called Twyford Abbey (and is so
written in the census returns) from the
manor-house which is so named. Twyford
is a secluded and till recently was a soli
tary and curiously unprogressive place.
Of old it was an extra-parochial chapelry,
but has long been deemed a parish. In
1251 the parish, of 275 acres, contained 12
houses. In the reign of Elizabeth the
only house was the manor-house. This
continued to be the case till " Thos.
Willan, Esq., of Marybone Park,'' pur
chased the manor, in 1806, and shortly
after pulled down the manor-house, then
occupied as a farm, and built the present

TWYFORD.

643

TJPMINSTER.

Abbey and a farm-house at a little dis
tance. At the census of 1861 there were
only 2 houses and 18 inhab. — the smallest
population of any parish around London.
In 1871, however, the number of houses
had increased to 8, and the pop. to 47 —
considerably outnumbering, therefore, the
adjoining par. of Perivale, which had
only 7 houses and 33 inhabitants.
Twyford Abbey is commonly said to
occupy the site of an ancient abbey, but
there is no record of any religious esta
blishment having existed here. Still, as
the manor was held under the canons of
St. Paul's, and there was from very early
times a chapel, with, in 1251, two altars
outside the choir, it is possible there may
have been a cell, or house, for the priests
who served at the altars.
The old manor-house was moated. The
present manor-house, Twyford Abbey —
the property of Douglas Willan, Esq.,
but now unoccupied and undergoing re
pairs — was built about 1808, from the
designs of Mr. Atkinson. It is a " castel
lated mansion," the principal front having
the centre advanced and octagonal turrets
at the extremities. It stands in wooded
grounds of about 15 acres, through which
winds the Brent. Before the house sweeps
an ample lawn, and by it are lordly elms
and grand old cedars.
Twyford Church stands immediately
W. of the house, the ch.-yard and grounds
running deviously into each other, only
the few old and mossy gravestones mark
ing the consecrated ground — -all seeming
a part of the manorial establishment.
This, of course, the ch. was so long as

Twyford Abbey was the only house and
tho lord of the manor was resident ; and
even now it is so in a measure. There is
no incumbent, and when the Abbey was
to let recently, it was stipulated that the
tenant should be a member of the Church
of England, and " provide a clergyman
for at least six Sundays in the year." Ser
vice is not actually so limited, however.
In 1875 it was announced that there would
be every Sunday " In summer, Service at. ,
3 o'clock, except the First Sunday, when,
it will be at 11 in the morning."
The church is a small brick barn, which,.
was Gothicized nearly half a century ago
by the addition of a porch, crocketed
pinnacles, and a covering of stucco. It,
was hideous, but happily a luxuriant
growth of ivy has spread over it, andi
made the little pile almost beautiful. The-
int. has been recently refurbished . Obs.
mural monts. of Robert Moyle, of *¦ the
Inner Temple, Prothonatory of the Com-
mon Pleas, d. 1638 (bust in black cap and
gown); Walter Moyle, d. 1660, (bust).;
tablet to Henry Bold, author of ' Virgil.
Travestie,' and other poems, d. 1683.;
Fabian, son of Fabian Philipps, d. 1658;
Fabian Philipps, the father, d. 1690, was
buried at Twyford, but there is no me
morial of him. An ardent and fearless
loyalist, two days before the execution of
Charles I., he wrote, printed, and actively
circulated a protest against the execution ;
and in 1660 defended the King's memory
in ' Veritas Inconcussa' (a most certain
truth), asserting that King Charles I. was
no Man .of Blood, but a Martyr for his
People. .

UPMINSTEB, Essex, 3f m. E.S.E.
from Romford Rly. Stat., through
Hornchurch ; a secluded agricultural vill.,
lying E. of the Ingrebourn brook, in a
green upland country, from many parts
of which there are wide prospects. Pop.
1329. Until the Dissolution the manor be
longed to the monks of Waltham, and
Upminster Hall, 1 m. N. of the ch., was
their hunting seat. Part of the old half-
timber house remains, but the greater
part is modern. The Church, St. Law
rence, which stands by the crossing of

the Hornchurch , and Aveley roads (or, as
they say in these parts, by the four-wont
way), was rebuilt in 1861-62, and is a
commonplace Dec. building, comprising
nave, S. aisle and porch, chancel, and W.
tower, in which are 3 bells. Inside are
some monts., rescued from the old ch., of
persons who have held property in the
par., and among them one to Geerard
D'Ewes, raised by his grandson, Sir
Simonds D'Ewes, the noted antiquary.
Also a brass to Nicholas Wayte, citizen
and mercer, d. 1545, and wife Ellen. But
there is no memorial to the most distin-

UPTON.

644

UPTON.

guished resident at Upminster, William
Derham, who was rector from 1689 to
his death, April 5, 1735. Dr. Derham
lived at High House, there wrote his two
great works, the ' Physico-Theology,'
and ' Astro-Theology,' and there carried
out the experiments by which he deter
mined the velocity of sound, as related in
his paper ' On Experiments and Observa
tions on the Motion of Sound.' * There
also he made his notes ' On the Spots of
the Sun from 1703 to 1711,' and prepared
his valuable ' Tables of the Eclipses of
Jupiter's Satellites from 1700 to 1727'
(the 6th and 7th satellities were discovered
by him), ' Meteorological Tables,' ' Notes
on the Migrations of Birds,' etc. His
astronomical observations -were chiefly
made from Upminster ch. tower.
The scenery is rural and pleasing ;
there are several good seats in grounds
famous for their trees, especially cedars,
of which there are several magnificent
examples. Great Gaines (H. Joslin,
Esq.) stands in a pretty little park, \ m.
S. of the ch. Gaines was for many years
the residence of the Rev. John Clayton
(" old John Clayton," of the Weighhouse
Chapel), and afterwards of his son, the
Rev. George Clayton, of Walworth, in
their day popular ministers of the Inde
pendent Connection*.-|- Clock House, \ m.
E. of the ch. (J. Cory Havers, Esq.) ; Oak
Place (John Rogers, Esq.)
Beyond Great Gaines, 1 m. S. of the
ch., is the little rustic hamlet of Corbet's
Tey, a hamlet of. a dozen cottages, two or
three farm-houses, a wheeler's and smithy,
and a country inn, the Huntsman and
Hounds. UPTON {in official documents
UPTON-CUM-CHALVEY), Bucks, lies
to the E. of the Slough and Windsor
road, 1 m. S.E. of the Slough Stat, of the
Gt. W. Rly. Pop. of the par. 5940, but
this includes the town of Slough and
portions of the hamlet of Salt Hill and
the eccl. dist. of Gerrard's Cross, 173
inmates of the British Orphan Asylum,
and 240 of the union workhouse.
Upton adjoins Slough on the E., the
whole of Slough being within this ex
tensive par. The country is verdant and
* Philosophical Transactions, No. 313.
t Aveling, Memorials of the Clayton Family.

sylvan, gently upland and slightly un
dulating. From its quiet semi-rural
character and proximity to Eton and
Windsor, Upton is a favourite place of resi
dence. Numerous moderate-sized houses
have been built, and Upton Park enclosed,
and laid out as a select colony of villas.
(See Slough.)
The Church (St. Lawrence), a small
Norm, building, injured by ruthless hands,
winter, and foul weather, but still pic
turesque, and venerable for its antiquity
— the " ivy- mantled tower " of Gray's
Elegy, as commonly asserted, though that,
as we have shown, is a mistake (see
Stoke Poges) — was abandoned on the
erection of the ch. at Slough in 1837, and
suffered to go to ruin. But when the
increase of the population rendered a
second ch. necessary, it was suggested
that the old ch. might be restored, and
in 1851 this was accomplished under the
direction of Mr. B. Ferrey, F.S.A. The
old ch. consisted of a nave and chancel
with a tower between them. In restoring
the ch. the tower was lowered and a new
aisle added. At the W. end is a good
Norm, doorway with chevron moulding.
The tower arches between the nave and
chancel are Norm., and the chancel has
a plain groined roof, reconstructed when
the ch. was restored, but on the old lines,
Between the nave and aisle is an arcade,
the piers and arches of which are Norm.,
of course new, but an imitation of the
old work. Some of the old Norm, and
E.E. windows have been preserved. In
the old ch. the chancel and tower were
separated from the nave by three nearly
unique E.E. arches of wood, with the
dog-tooth moulding. These have been
removed, without disturbing their ar
rangement, to the E. end of the aisle.
Some of the windows have painted glass.
The font is plain Norm. Against one of
the tower piers is a tablet with long Latin
insc. to Sir Wm. Herschel, d. Aug. 25,
1822, and buried here. In the chancel
are brasses to the Bulstrode family : obs.
Edward Bulstrode, Esquyer for the body
to King Henry VII. and King Henry
VIII., d. 1517, and Mary, Elyn, and
Margaret his wyf s ; effigy in plate armour
with skirt of mail, one wife on rt., two on
1., 12 children below the insc. Edward
Bulstrode, d. 1595, and wife Cecill; effigies,
of knight in plate armour, wife with

UXBRIDGE.

645

UXBRIDGE.

winged head-dress, quilted ruff and plaited
stomacher. Near the ch. is Upton Court, the pro
perty of the Earl of Harewood, the old
manor-house, now the manor farm. The
walks along byroads and field-paths to
Stoke on the one hand, and Eton, Black
Potts, and Datohet on the other, are very
pleasant. The hamlet of Clialvey is about 1 m.
from Upton, on the W. of the Windsor
road. Chalvey Green and Chalvey Grove
are outlying portions, the whole a bright
semi-rural district. A Gothic ch., small
but good, was erected at Chalvey, as a
chapel-of-ease to Upton, in 1861, from
the designs of Mr. G. E. Street, R.A.
UPTON, Essex (see West Ham).
UXBEIDGE, Middx., an "ancient
borough" and market-town, on the
Oxford road, 15 m. from London, about
1 m. N.W. of Hillingdon (in which par.
it is situated), and the terminus of the
Uxbridge br. of the Gt. W. Rly. Pop. of
the township 3364. Inns : Chequers
Hotel : George, commercial ; King's
Arms, etc.
The town is washed by two branches
of the Colne, the Colne proper at the
extreme W., and an arm of it which
crosses the High Street some way to the
E. The name points to a very early
bridge, instead of a ford, as was then
more usual, over the river here. The
oldest known form of the name (about
1100) is Wxebruge or Oxbruge ; the
borough of Woxebrigge, Woxebrygge, is
spoken of in 1328 and 1335 ; Woxbruge,
in 1354 ; and Woxebrugge, alias Uxbridge,
in 1397,* from which time the modern
form has been commonly employed.
Though from an early period the borough
(later the town) of Uxbridge was se
parated from the rest of Hillingdon par.
by well-defined boundaries, " encompassed
by a borough ditch," and was governed
by officers of its own election, it re
mained a hamlet or chapelry of Hilling
don, and the ch. was only a chapel-of-
:ase to the mother ch., till 1842, when it
was created an eccl. district and the
living a vicarage.
* Bedford and Riches, Hist, of the Ancient Town
and Borough of Uxbridge, p. 5 ; Lysons, vol. iii.,
p. 175.

Uxbridge, like too many other towns,
witnessed the burning of heretics in the
reign of Mary. Several persons were
prosecuted, three or four were burned,
the place of execution being Lynch
Green, by the Windsor road. The ac
cused were examined by Bp. Bonner at
his London house, but remitted to Ux
bridge to undergo their sentence. John
Denley, of Maidstone, Kent, and Robert
Smith, a clerk in the college at Windsor,
given to poetry and painting, were burnt
on the 8th of August, 1555 ; Pathrick
Packingham on the 28th. It was at the
burning of Denley that Dr. Storey, to
" mar an old song," — the hymn which the
martyr was singing at the stake, — hurled
a faggot which struck him in the face,
an act Storey, in a speech in the de
bate on the Supremacy Bill, Feb. 14,
1569, admitted and gloried in : "I threw
a faggot in the face of an earwig at the
stake at Uxbridge, and set a bushel of
thorns at his feet, and see nothing to be
ashamed of or sorry for "I *
The Commissioners of Charles I: and
the Parliament appointed to negotiate a
Treaty for Peace, met at Uxbridge at the
end of January 1654. Sixteen commis
sioners were named on each side, who
were to confer together and endeavour
to arrive at an agreement on the subject
of Religion (or the Church), the Militia,
and Ireland, " which three points being
well settled, the other differences would
be with more ease composed." The dis
cussion was strictly limited to 20 days.
Uxbridge was in the hands of the Par
liament, and the arrangements for the
meeting were necessarily left to their
agents. They were, says Clarendon, who
was one of the King's Commissioners, and
has left the best account of the Treaty,
" very civil in the distribution [of lodg
ings], and left one entire side of the
town to the King's Commissioners, one
house only excepted, which was given to
the Earl of Pembroke."
" There was a good house at the end of the
town, which was provided for the treaty, where
was a fair room in the middle of the house, hand
somely dressed up for the commissioners to sit in ; a
large square table being placed in the middle with
seats for the commissioners, one side being auffj cient
for those of either party ; and a rail for others
* Strype's Annals, part i., p. 115, quoted by
Froude, Hist, of England, vol. vii., p. 63 ; Foxo,
Acts and Monuments.

UXBRIDGE.

646

UXBRIDGE.

who should be thought necessary to be present,
which went round. There were many other rooms
on either side of this great room, for the commis
sioners on either side to retire to, when they
thought fit to consult by themselves, and to return
again to the public debate ; and there being good
stairs at either end of the house, they never went
through each other's quarters ; nor met, but in the
great room."*
The King's Commissioners lodged at
the Crown, those of the Parliament at
the George, " being two great inns which
served very well tothat purpose." Each
party " eat always together ; " and at
first frequent visits were paid from one
side to the other among " old friends,
whom they loved better than their new,"
though they had taken opposite sides,
both parties " professing great desire and
hope that the treaty would produce a
good peace." But this hope grew fainter
as the debate went on, and when the 20
days expired, the Commissioners separated
at their last conference, a little before
break of day, without agreement on a
single point. On the next morning they
"-performed their mutual visits," parting
from this formal leave-taking " with such
• coolness towards each other as if they
scarce hoped to meet again."
The " fair-house " at which the conference
was held had been a seat of the Bennets,
" lately of Sir John Bennet," (ancestor of
the Earls of Tankerville,) but then of Mr.
Can-. It became the property of Went-
worth Gurneys in 1689 ; in 1724 passed
to C. Gostlin, having shortly before been
the residence of Sir Christopher Abdy, as
it was afterwards for many years of Dr.
Thorold. Its fortunes now declined. It
was partitioned and let out in tenements ;
divided, part pulled down, and part con
verted into an inn, and the highroad was
diverted through the midst of the large
garden in which it originally stood.
The house, long known as the Treaty
House, or so much as remains of it, will
be found on the 1. of the road at the
western extremity of the town, between
the bridges over the river and the canal.
It is still partly let in tenements, the rest
forms the Crown and Treaty House inn.
A good late Elizabethan or Jacobean
brick mansion with bays and gables, it
has been much mutilated and covered with

* Clarendon, Hist, of the Rebelliou, b. viii., Oxf
d., 1720, vol. ii., p. 577.

stucco, and the exterior presents a very
different aspect to what it did when the
Commissioners met within, and the towns
folk gathered outside wondering what
were the mysterious proceedings going
on there day after day. Inside, however,
somewhat more is retained of the original.
The great room, where the Commissioners
sat about the large square table, remains
tolerably perfect, with its old and nearly
black carved oak panelling. An adjoining
room, known as the Presence Chamber,
has still more elaborately carved old oak
wainscoting, with quaint pilasters, cornices,
and fireplace. Another room used to be
called King Charles's Bedroom — from a
long-cherished tradition that Charles (who
was all the time at Oxford) slept in the
one, and signed the treaty (which was
never executed) in the other.* The lodge
shown in the old engravings of the Treaty
House was pulled down many years ago.
The Crown and George inns, in which
the Commissioners lodged, were near the
market-house, and nearly opposite each
other. The Crown, the Royal Commis
sioners' inn, ceased to be an inn and was
partly pulled down many years ago, the
part left being converted into private
houses. The George has at various times
been reduced in size, the outer staircase
in the great yard removed, and the front
refaced and covered with stucco : but it
still remains an inn, and retains something
of its antique appearance. The interior
has been even more altered than the out
side. The Commissioners' sitting-room is
still shown, but is sadly changed. Per
haps from the Commissioners having first
held their religious services in it, the room
was long used as a dissenting place of
worship ; afterwards for meetings of the
County Court ; but for at least half a
century its local celebrity has been due
to the " harmonic meetings " of the Ux
bridge Harmonic Society being held in it.
The oak panelling was stripped from the
walls several years back.
Leland writing in the reign of Henry
VIII. says that ' Uxbridge has " but one
* In the Gentleman's Magazine for Aug. 1789, p.
685, is an article on the subject, with an engraving
of ' The House in which Charles 1st signed the
Treaty of Uxbridge,' and we have seen a like
statement in later publications : with such autho
rity in print, the innkeepers may be forgiven if
they adhere to the tradition of their predecessors.

UXBRIDGE.

647

UXBRIDGE.

long street, but that, for timber, well
builded ;" and broadly this might be said
of it now. It consists of a long main
street, but has a few very short streets
running from it, and a thickly populated
suburb, St. John's. The main street is
wide, clean, and lined with good dwelling
houses and shops, some of the former
large with good trees and gardens, and
many of the latter handsome and well
stocked. But all looks modern: a few
old houses remain, but they have been
altered and modernized, though one or
two are said to retain the old oak panel
ling inside. Near the centre of the High
Street, on the 1,, is the Market House,
with the Corn Exchange over it, and
behind it the ch. Inns still appear re
dundant, but there were thrice as many
when the population was much smaller.
Of old there were 53, now there are under
20 in the town proper. The town has a
large local trade, but no manufacture
properly so called. On the Colne are
several corn mills, some* of considerable
size ; on the Grand Junction Canal are
timber, coal, and slate wharves, and saw
and planing mills ; and there are several
breweries, and an iron foundry.
In 1294 Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln,
procured for Uxbridge the grant of a
weekly market and an annual fair. A
market for corn is now held m the Corn
Exchange, and for cattle in the yard of
the Chequers hotel, every Thursday, and a
general market on Saturdays. Fairs are
held on March 25 and July 31 ; a wool
fair August 1, and statute fairs September
29 and October 11. Two newspapers are
published weekly.
The Church (St. Margaret) occupies an
out-of-the-way position behind the Market
House, and is not remarkable for beauty
or antiquity. Newcourt says it was built
in 1447, and it has been frequently altered.
It is a late Perp. fabric of flint and stone,
and consists of nave and double N. aisle,
short chancel, and tower at the N.W., in
which is a peal of 6 bells. The doorway
and windows are poor in character, but
were somewhat improved when the ch.
was repaired a few years back. The int.
is of little interest ; the aisle arcades have
octagonal piers ; the roofs are ceiled ; the
E. window has memorial painted glass.
Obs. the original Perp. font, octagonal
with quatrefoils and Tudor roses. Mont.

by chancel, with recumbent effigy, pedi
ment with arms, etc., supported on Tuscan
columns, at the base the window of a
charnel-house, of Dame Leonora Bennet,
d. 1638, daughter o£ Adrian Vierendeels
of Antwerp, and wife of bir John Bennet
(he was her third husband), Judge of the
Prerogative Court and Chancellor to Anne
of Denmark, Queen of James I. In con
nection with the ch. of St. Margaret, a
guild or fraternity, consisting of a warden,
brethren, and sisters, was founded by
Robert Oliver and others in 1447, in
honour of the Virgin Mary and ht.
Margaret ; and a few years later a chantry
by Sir Wm. Shiryngton, Chancellor of the
Duchy of Lancaster, which was endowed
by his executors in 1459. Sir Wm. C.
Ross, R.A., the eminent miniature painter,
was born in a house by the ch. , 1794.
The Market House is a large plain brick
building, erected in 1788, 140 ft. long,
the lower part open, the upper part being
supported on 51 wooden columns. The
roof was removed in 1860, a trussed
lantern substituted, side windows inserted,
and a Corn Exchange formed over the
Market House — a spacious room 109 ft.
by 25; archt., Mr. Shoppee. There are
besides Public Rooms where the County
Courts and Sessions are held, lecture halls,
banks, etc. ; but Uxbridge has as yet no
public buildings noteworthy for their
architectural character.
At Uxbridge Moor is the dist. ch. of St.
John, a plain brick barn. Just beyond
the W. end of the town is the large and
handsome ch. of St. Andrew, designed by
Sir G. G. Scott, 1864 ; but that is a dist.
ch. of Hillingdon. (See Hillingdon.)
On this side of Uxbridge, along the Colne,
by Chiltern, and about Uxbridge Common,
the scenery is very pleasing, and the Colne
affords good fishing. The mill on the rt.
beyond the Treaty House and bridge,
with the trees, rustic inn, broad water, and
little island, has a quiet charm which
even the showy brick dwelling, almost »
mansion, recently erected, has not mate
rially injured.
The Manor of Uxbridge was originally
a part of the manor of Colham in Hil
lingdon ; but was in 1669 separated from
it. In 1695 the manor, with the tolls of
the market, was sold by its then owner,
George Pitt, Esq., to certain inhabitants
of Uxbridge, the survivors of whom in

UXBRIDGE.

648

VIRGINIA WATER.

1729 conveyed to trustees, inhabitants and
housekeepers in the town, " all that manor
and buirough of Woxbridge alias Ux
bridge," with all their rights, privileges,
and property, to appropriate the pro

ceeds to charitable purposes, "for the
benefit and advantage of the town of Ux
bridge only." These trustees, at present
7 in number, are styled " Lords in Trust
of the Manor and Borough."

VALENTINES, Essex (see Ilfobd,
Great).
VERULAM, Herts (see St.
Albans). VIRGINIA WATER occupies the
north-western corner of Surrey, the
upper part of the lake and grounds ex
tending into Berkshire ; is nearly 5 m.
S. of Windsor Castle, and IJ m. W. of the
Virginia Water Stat, of the L. and S.-W.
Rly. (Staines and Reading br. 23 m. ;
Chertsey and Virginia Water br. 24-| m.)
Virginia Water is royal property, and en
closed, but visitors are admitted by the
lodges; from the rly. stat. admission may
De obtained through the pleasant grounds
ofthe Wheatsheaf Hotel — a well-managed
house, noted for luncheons and dinners,
and for beds.
Virginia Water is the creation of
WilUam Duke of Cumberland, the hero
of Cnlloden, who, having been appointed
ranger of Windsor Great Park, came in
1746 to reside in what is now known as
Cumberland Lodge. Lying at the southern
end of the Great Park was this tract, then
amarshy waste in Windsor Forest, through
which a lazy streamlet made its way to
wards the Thames at Chertsey. This the
Duke, partly for amusement, partly to
furnish employment for labourers of the
district, resolved to drain and plant. Paul
Sandby, the water-colour painter, was the
Duke's adviser in all such matters, and
he designed the great landscape features
of Virginia Water : the name was a fore
cast of the forest wilds, the broad waters,
and tranquil solitudes that were to be
called forth by the waving of the magi
cian's wand.
Sandby drained the swamp, enlarged
and deepened the natural basin, threw
a dam across the lower end, and diverted
into it the lesser streamlets of the dis
trict. To give the utmost apparent extent

to the Great Lake, the grand feature "5f
his design, Sandby varied the outline and
planted the borders, so that the bounda
ries might nowhere reveal themselves. It
is said to be one of the largest artificial
lakes in England, * and till the formation
of the Kingsbury Reservoir was by far
the largest lake near London — as it is still
the most beautiful. It is about IJ m. long,
and one-third of a mile across where
widest. The dam gave way in 1768, and much
injury was done by the consequent flood
ing of the lower lands. It was, however,
rebuilt in a more substantial manner, and
Sandby then constructed the Waterfall,
thus adding an attractive feature to the
landscape, and a tolerably efficient means
of carrying off the surplus water. The
Waterfall has been laughed at as a toy
and plaything ; but, though it cannot be
compared with the natural waterfalls of
Wales or Cumberland, now that the growth
of a century has covered the artificial
angles of the stones with thick layers of
moss, and ferns, and plants have sprung
up from every crevice, he must be captious
who does not see beauty as the summer
rill sparkles over it in the bright sunshine,
or when a full turbid stream pours down
in the late autumn.
The Cavern, immediately S. of the
Waterfall, was constructed of great sarsen
stones, dug up at Bagshot Heath, vestiges
of some supposed Druidic structure.
The Duke of Cumberland formed some
other elaborate toys, the Chinese Island
and Pavilion, Belvedere Fort (a fort of
Uncle Toby's order, but affording a capital
outlook), and some fantastic lodges ; but
the costlier follies of the Fishing Temple,
the Ruined Temple, etc., were added by
George IV., who during the last years of
his life, whilst living in seclusion in the
Royal Lodge, spent much of his time
here. The miniature frigate was placed
on the lake by William IV. Her Majesty
has recently rebuilt the fishing temple in

VIRGINIA WATER.

649

WALHAM GREEN.

a less grotesque style, and placed on the
lake (Nov. 1876) a handsome state barge,
built for the purpose by Burgoines of
Kingston. The Ruins, a short distance N. of the
Waterfall, though put in a moist and
sheltered dell, where a recluse might have
fixed his hermitage, but where a Greek
would certainly not have placed a tem
ple, are really antique columns, capi
tals, entablatures, etc., with some frag
ments of sculpture, vestiges of several
temples, and of quite incongruous orders,
brought from Greece and the neighbour
hood of Tunis. For a long time they had
lain unregarded in the courtyard of the
British Museum, when George IV., fancy
ing that a ruined temple would grace his
grounds, had them removed and set up
where they now stand — a bridge which
carries the Blackness and Windsor road,
cutting the temple in twain. Obs. when
here the stately beech and unusually
fine firs, which group often very happily
with one or other of the architectural
fragments. From the height above the
ruins, and from Belvedere Fort, a splendid
view is obtained of Windsor Castle.
Virginia Water is a delightful place for
a summer holiday. The embellishments
may be too evidently artificial and in
questionable taste, but the effect of a
century of growth has been to change
formal plantations into woods of noble
trees, which make endless rich landscapes
with the different reaches of the lake ;
the lawns are of the smoothest turf and
finest green ; there is ample shade ; still
lakes and falling water gratify alike the
senses of seeing and hearing ; while broad
prospects are within easy reach ; and
charming strolls abound on every hand,
outside as well as within the royal
grounds.

When in England in 1873 the Shah of
Persia was taken to see Virginia Water,
and his account of it is interesting as
showing the impression produced on the
oriental mind by a favourite English
landscape : —
" The avenues, the lawns, the trees (of Windsor
Great Park) were interminable. We drove two
leagues, and passed along another avenue re
sembling paradise, both sides of the avenue being
a mass of tall trees (or shrubs), all in bloom with
large light-blue, red, and other coloured flowers,
of the oleander family (rhododendrons). So oharra-
ing was this, that nothing superior can be imagined.
We came to a lake of water of some extent, around
which were multitudes of women and maidens.
We crossed the lake to a small palace, very pretty,
the property of tho Sovereign. There we alighted
and partook of some fruit. All our princes and
suite came there also, and then went off to tha
station. We got into a boat and went about. On
the other side of the water there was a crowd of
women and men. After remaining on the water
a httle while, we went to a small model of a man-
of-war, that has been constructed and armed with
twenty-four guns about the size of swivels. We
went on board, Baw all over her, returned to our
boat, and in her to the palace, where we again got
into our carriage and drove to Windsor by a
different road that was still all avenues, lawns, and
numerous antelopes. " *
At the S.W. extremity of the lake, just
outside the lodge, is the pretty little
hamlet of Blackness. The large and
costly Gothic building seen near the
Virginia Water Station is the Sanatorium,
for persons of the middle class suffering
from mental disease. It was erected
1874-76, at the sole cost of Thomas
Holloway, Esq., from the designs of Mr.
Crossland, and is a noble structure, its
lofty and elaborate tower forming a
striking feature for miles. The neat
Gothic district ch., Christ Church, Vir
ginia Water, was built in 1838, from the
designs of Mr. W. F. Pocock, and en
dowed by Miss Irvine of Luddington
House.

w

ADDON, Surrey (see Croy
don.)

WALHAM GREEN, Middx., an
eccl. dist. in Fulham parish ; pop. 6174 ;
on the Fulham road, IJ- m. N. of Fulham
church. The Chelsea Stat, of the W.
Lond. Junction Rly., which is in connec

tion with most of the metropolitan lines,
is at Walham Green, just off the main
road, on the E.
Walham Green takes its name from the
manor, which appears successively in
* Diary of the Shah of Persia during his Tour
through Europe in 1873 (trans, by J. W. Redhouse),
p. 150.

WALLINGTON.

650

WALTHAM ABBEY.

early court-rolls as Wendon Green, (1449)
Wandon, Wansdon, Wansdowne, (1595)
Wandham, and in 1693 for the first time
as Walham Green, but is still occasionally
written " Wansdon or Walham Green."
The village, if it can be called a village,
lies along the Fulham Road, and about
the triangular space which was once
the village green. Virtually it is now
an outskirt of the metropolis, and has
nothing distinctive in its appearance.
Once, however, it was noted for its old
houses, but of these only two or three
dilapidated specimens remain ; and as
late as 1749 a local bard (and nursery
man), Mr. B. Rocque, thus sang its
charms :
" Hail, happy isle, and happier Walham Green,
Where all that's fair and beautiful are seen I
Where wanton zephyrs court the ambient air,
And sweets ambrosial banish every care," etc.*
Walham Green Church (St. John's)
occupies the site of the old village pond,
in the centre of the green (its memory is
still preserved by Pond Lane, on the W.
of the ch.) It is an unassuming white-
brick Gothic building of the year 1828,
erected by Mr. Taylor at a cost of
£10,000. At the W. end is a tall tower,
with pinnacles at the angles. Here, too,
is the extensive Swan Brewery of Messrs.
Stansfeld, and by it the Swan Inn. Im
mediately beyond Walham Green, on the
1. of the road, going to Fulham, is
Ravensworth House, the seat of the Earl
of Ravensworth. (See Fulham.) Beau
fort House, North End Road, is the head
quarters of the South Middlesex Volun
teers, and the meeting-place for exercise
and races of the Athletic Club.
WALLINGTON, Surrey (Dom.
Waleton), a hamlet of Beddington,
created an eccl. dist. in 1867, lies between
Beddington and Carshalton, 2J m. W. of
Croydon, and a stat. on the Croydon,
Epsom, and Dorking br. of the L., B., and
S. C. Rly. Pop. of the hamlet 1335, of
the eccl. dist. 842.
Though never of much importance,
Wallington is a place of great antiquity,
and gives its name to the hundred. At
Woodcote extensive Roman remains have
been found, whence Camden was led to
place here the station Noviomagus, now
* London Magazine, June 1749.

assigned to Keston. (See Keston.) At
the Dom. Survey the manor belonged to
the King. By Henry II. it was granted
to Maurice de Creon, whose daughter
carried it to Guy de la Val, by whom it
was forfeited to the Crown. King John
gave it to Eustace de Courtenay ; it next
passed to the Lyndes and Lodelawes, and
in 1394 to Sir John Dymock. It was sold,
1593, by Sir Edward Dymock, to James
Harrington, who transferred it, 1596, to
Sir Francis Carew of Beddington. 'To
wards the close of the 1 7th cent, it was
purchased by Wm. Bridges, Esq., Sur
veyor-General of the Ordnance, and is
now held by Nathaniel Bridges, Esq.
Wallington stretches from the chalk
hills by the rly. stat. across the Epsom
road to the Wandle. This is a great herb
district, and at Wallington large quanti
ties of lavender and fragrant herbs are
grown. On the Wandle are paper and
leather mills, and a tannery ; about Hack-
bridge (where is a second rly. stat.) are
other factories. Of late many villa and
cottage residences have been built. Holy
Trinity district ch. is a neat E.E. build
ing, erected in 1867 at the cost of N.
Bridges, Esq.
WALTHAM ABBEY, or WAL
THAM HOLY CROSS, Essex, a market
town, and the seat of the Royal Gun
powder Factory, on the river Lea, 12 m.N.
by E. from Shoreditch ch., and | m. E.
of the Waltham .Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly.
(Cambridge line). The par., which has
an area of 11,670 acres, is divided into
4 wards — Township, Holyfield, Seward
stone, and Upshire. The pop. in 1871
was 5197, but this included 535 in the
eccl. dist. of High Beech. Inns : King's
Arms ; Cock ; New Inn.
The Lea flows through the town in
several channels ; for the river here " not
only parteth Hertfordshire from Essex,
but also seven times parteth from itself,
whose septemfluous stream, in coming to
the town, is crossed again with so many
bridges." * The town lies low and looks
damp ; the streets are narrow and
crooked ; the houses mostly small, com
monplace, and many very poor. But
the church is one of the oldest in the
kingdom, and one of the most interesting,
* Thos. Fuller, Hist, of Waltham Abbey, B. i.

WALTHAM ABBEY.

651

WALTHAM ABBEY.

the scenery around is varied and pleasing,
and Waltham itself has many historical
and personal associations.
Waltham (the weald, or forest ham, or
home) dates its origin from Tovi, or Tofig,
the Proud, a powerful Danish thane, the
royal standard bearer, at whose wedding
feast Hardicnut died. Here Tovi built
himself a hunting seat, " the place having
plenty of deer," and he being a mighty
hunter. It was on the edge of the great
Forest of Essex, afterwards to be known
as the Forest of Waltham. As late as the
middle of the 17th cent. , Thomas Fuller,
who lived here many years, wrote : " On
the one side the town itself hath large
and fruitful meadows  on the
other side a spacious forest spreads itself,
where fourteen years since (1640) one
might have seen whole herds of red. and
fallow deer. " Epping Forest, the dimi
nished vestige of Waltham Forest, has
receded farther from the town, but what
is left of it crowns the heights on the
east. A wondrous cross was found in Tovi's
land at Lutegarsbury, in Somersetshire,
on the top of the peaked hill from which
the place came to be afterwards called
Montacute (Mons aoutus). The cross was
laid in a cart to be carried to Glastonbury,
but the oxen refused to stir. Canterbury
was named, but the oxen were still obsti
nate. At last Tovi bethought him of
Waltham, and the oxen went cheerfully
on their way. So Tovi built a church
for its reception at Waltham, and called
it the Church of the Holy Cross ; ap
pointed two canons to administer in the
ch., and placed there 66 persons who had
been cured by its means in honour of the
holy cross and devotion and service to the
church.* Tovi's son, Athelstan, forfeited the es
tate to King Edward (the Confessor), who
gave it to his brother-in-law, Harold, and
he pulled down Tovi's ch., and built a
larger and more magnificent one on the
site. But besides enlarging the ch.,
Harold greatly extended its functions.
He increased the number of the clergy from
two to twelve, who were to be secular

* Prof. Stubbs' ed. of the tract De Inventione
Sanctffi Crucis Walthamensis ; Fuller, Hist, of
Waltham Abbey ; Freeman, Norman Conquest,
vol. ii.

canons, and placed a dean at their head ;
made the instruction of the young an
important part of the college duties, and
that it might be efficiently carried out,
obtained the services of Adelhard of
Liittich, a very distinguished teacher, as
chancellor and " childmaster." Harold's
church was consecrated in 1060, Edward
the King, the Queen Eadyth, the Earl
Harold, and many bishops, priests, and
nobles being present. Harold never
ceased to watch over his ch. and college,
and to add to its endowments. It is even
said, and Mr. Freeman seems to adopt
the stoiy, that when about to march to
Hastings to meet William of Normandy,
he went first to Waltham, to pray in his
ch. there, and to offer up relics on the
altar. The legend adds that, as he pros
trated himself before the holy rood, and
prayed, the face of the holy image, which
had before looked upwards, bent forwards
and regarded the King as he lay : and
thenceforward the head of the image was
ever bowed towards the ground. Harold's
battle-cry on the fatal field, it will be
remembered, was " The Holy Cross," a
reference, there can be little doubt, to the
cross which was the great treasure and
glory of his church at Waltham.
The body of Harold was, according to
the local tradition, and the statement of
chroniclers,* brought for interment in
the chancel of his great ch. The fact
of his burial at Waltham has been
questioned, but the balance of evidence
inclines in its favour.f Fuller gives a
very particular account " from the pen of
Master Thomas Smith of Sewardstone,
in the parish of Waltham Abbey, a
discreet person, not long since deceased,"
of the opening of a tomb towards the
latter end of the reign of Elizabeth, which
was believed to be that of Harold. It
stood about 120 ft. E. of the present ch.,
in front of the site of the high altar of the
ancient minster. The tomb was of hewn
stone, the cover a slab of fair grey
marble, " with what seemed a cross floree
. . . upon the same, supported with pil-
larets, one pedestal whereof I have in my
house." When the cover was " removed
* See Annales Monasterii de Bermundesia, in
Annales Monast. by Luard (Rolls ed.), vol. iii.,
p. 424, and Annals of Winchester (Ann. de Win-
tona), ib., vol. ii., p. 27.
t Freeman, Norman Conquest, vol. iii., ch. 15.

WALTHAM ABBEY.

652

WALTHAM ABBEY.

from off the tomb . . . there appeared to
the view . . . the anatomy of a man
lying in the tomb abovesaid, only the
bones remaining—bone to his bone, not
one bone dislocated." There was plainly
no distinct evidence that this was the
skeleton or even the tomb of Harold, but
there is nothing inconsistent with its
being so in either the site or the character
of the tomb. Fuller refuses to give the
" reported epitaph " (Hie jacet Haroldus
infelix) " because not attested in my
apprehension with sufficient authority." *
William I. deprived the house of much
of its plate and valuables, but spared the
foundation. The secular coUege was sup
pressed by Henry IL, professedly on
account of the immoral lives of the canons ;
but the King rebuilt the monastery on a
larger scale, placed in it an abbot and 24
regulars of the Augustinian order, and
made the Abbey free from episcopal juris
diction. From subsequent monarchs and
benefactors the Abbey received many addi
tional privileges and special gifts; the Ab
bot was mitred ; and at the Dissolution the
revenue of the Abbey was 15th in value
among the abbeys of England. Little is
told of the history of the Abbey in this
long interval, but one occurrence is too
remarkable to be passed over. When the
corpse of Edward I. was brought from
Cumberland (1307) to Westminster for
interment, it rested in the ch. of Waltham
Abbey. " For a while the two heroes
lay side by side — the last and the first
of English kings, between whom none
deserved the English name, or could
claim honour or gratitude of the English
nation. ... In the whole course of Eng
lish history we hardly come across a
scene which speaks more deeply to the
heart, than when the first founder of our
later greatness was laid by the side of the
last kingly champion of our earliest free
dom." t
If we were to believe the royal visitors,
and traditional stories, the monks in the
latter yearB of the Abbey were not
remarkable for continence. Fuller tells
of " a coltish trick served upon the monks
of Waltham," whereby some of them in
returning from a visit to Cheshunt nun-

* Hist, of [Waltham Abbey ; Worthies of Eng
land: Essex.
+ Freeman, Norman ConqueBt, vol. iii.

nery one dark night, were trapped in a
buckstall (wherewith deer used to be taken
in the forest), and the next morning
presented to the King, Henry VIII.,
" who had often seen sweeter, but never
fatter, venison." * But he does not give
any authority for the story, and it was
probably one of the loose tales about Bluff
King Harry which he found current when
curate of Waltham.
Henry VIII. seems to have been a fre
quent visitor to Waltham — doubtless from
its convenience for hunting. It was
whilst staying here, at the house of a Mr.
Cressy, that he heard of Cranmer's pro
posal for solving the difficulty of his
divorce from Queen Katherine, to which
he had been unable to obtain the assent
of the Pope. Cranmer was then living at
Waltham as tutor to two of Mr. Cressy's
sons. He was summoned to the King's
presence; satisfied the King's doubts;
and though we can hardly venture to
say, as our Waltham historian does, " the
first seeds of the Reformation were sown
here," there can be no question that the
interview of Henry and Cranmer at
Waltham Abbey was fraught with mighty
consequences. The site of the Abbey, and much of the
Abbey land, was given by Henry VIII. to
Sir Anthony Denny, privy councillor, and
one of the executors of the King's will.
The original grant was for 31 years, but
shortly after Sir Anthony's death his
widow obtained of Edward VI. the rever
sion in fee. Sir Edward Denny, grandson
of Sir Anthony, was by James I. created
Baron of Waltham, and by Charles I.
Earl of Norwich. His daughter, Honora,
carried the estate by marriage to the Earl
of Carlisle. It passed by sale towards
the end of the 17th century to Sir Samuel
Jones of Northampton, and later by mar
riage to the Wakes, and is now the pro
perty of Sir C. Wake.
The present Church of Waltham Abbey
is only the nave of the ancient abbey ch.
The rest was demolished when the church
was made parochial, the two easternmost
bays of the nave being converted into a
chancel. Some years back there was
a rather warm discussion as to the age of
the ch., Mr. Freeman very decidedly
claiming that it is the actual building
" Fuller, Church Hist., B. v., ch. 3.

WALTHAM ABBEY.

653

WALTHAM ABBEY.

erected by his hero, Harold ; whilst on the
other side it was as positively averred to
be not earlier than the reign of Henryl ., or
Stephen. That it is essentially Norman
in character is admitted on all hands.
Sir Gilbert Scott, who has a larger and
more intimate acquaintance with our
early churches than most men, says of it,
" there is clearly a difference between the
eastern bay and the remainder," but he
does " not think it is such as of necessity
implies difference of date." On the
" actual age of the nave," he " offers no
opinion." Mr. Burges, who restored the
ch. , is not more decided. Whether it is
Norman of the middle of the 11th or first
half of the 12th century, must, there
fore, be left undetermined.
In its original condition the church
must have been a magnificent fabric. It
was cruciform, and had a massive square
tower rising from the intersection of the
cross. Of the tower only the western
supports remain. Of the choir and tran
septs no vestige is left. Probably the
choir was apsidal, and we know from the
site of Harold's tomb that it extended
more than 120 ft. beyond the present E.
wall. Mr. Burges supposes that it had
chevets and a Lady Chapel at the E. end.
The present ch., which, as has been said,
was the nave of the abbey ch., is 108 ft. long
and 54 ft. wide. Six massive piers divide the
aisles from the nave, and support a tri
forium and clerestorey. The S. aisle is 12 ft.
4 in. wide, the N. aisle 11 ft. 8 in. ; both
aisles are of the full height of the two
lower stages. Two of the great piers are
carved with zigzag lines, two have
deeply-cut spiral lines, the remainder
are plain. The arches throughout have
chevron mouldings. The triforium is
open to the aisles, and consists of bold
single arches, but Mr. Burges supposes
that within these were triplets of smaller
arches like those in the clerestorey, and
as indeed is the most common arrange
ment in Norman minsters, though there
are not wanting examples of single open
arches like those of the Waltham triforium.
On the S. side of the ch. is a Lady Chapel
of the end of the reign of Edward II. or
beginning of that of Edward III. It has
some good Dec. work, and is worth exa
mining. Below it is a fine crypt, of old
used as a charnel-house, "the fairest,"
writes old Fuller, " that ever I saw."

In 1556 it was found necessary to
remove what was left of the central tower
and piers. This was done by " under
mining," the " coles " used for the purpose
costing the parish 2 shillings. [This will
help to explain the procedure in exca
vating at the base of the tower of St.
Albans Abbey. See p. 537-8.] A new
tower, the present fabric, was then erected
at the W. end of the ch. by the parish
ioners, from the old materials, the cost
being defrayed partly from their " stock
in the church box," partly by voluntary
contributions. It was completed in three
years ; is 15 ft. square and 86 ft. high,
" from the foundation to the battlements,
each foot whereof (besides the materials
pre-provided) costing 33s. id. the build
ing," but the last " 33 feet on the top
(difficulty and danger of climbing made
it dearer) cost 40s. a foot, as appeareth by
the churchwardens' accounts, anno 1563."*
To finish the tower " the parish was
forced to sell their bells, hanging before
in a wooden frame in the churchyard."
To cover the tower the lead was stript
from the Lady Chapel, which was now
roofed with tiles. Waltham remained
bell-less for 240 years ; the present peal
of 8 bells having been cast for the parish
by Briant of Hertford in 1 806. From the
tower leads a fine view is obtained of the
surrounding country. The entrance to
the ch. from the tower is by a good Dec.
doorway. Having fallen into a very dirty and
dilapidated condition, Waltham Abbey
church was in 1859 handed over to Mr.
W. Burges to restore internally, and the
work was done thoroughly. To the ex
terior nothing was done beyond needful
repairs, and its aspect is still somewhat
that of a ruin. The E. end of the ch. is, ex
cept the main work, entirely new, and in
s*^ le much later than the body of the ch.
Within the great arch are three lancets
and a rose window of early French
character. The greatest innovation made
in the process of restoration was, how
ever, in the decoration. In the circular
E. window are figured the seven days of
creation, each in a separate circle ; the
large circle in the centre containing a re
presentation of Him by whom all things
were made. Below the eastern lancets
• Fuller, Hist, of Waltham Abbey, B. vi

WALTHAM ABBEY".

654

WALTHAM ABBEY.

and spandrels arc subjects from iEsop's
Fables. The new flat roof which was
placed over the nave is divided into
lozenges, in which are painted the signs
of the zodiac down the centre, and per
sonifications of the months, alternating
with geometrical patterns on the sides.
The effect is novel, but crude, from the
contrast of the strong colours with the
cold hue of the heavy stone- work below ;
and though precedent may be found for
the subjects, and probably for the mode
of treatment, they are hardly accordant
with modern religious feeling.
The ch. contains some interesting
Monts. At the E. end of S. aisle, a much
injured but sumptuous mont. of Sir
Anthony Denny, to whom Henry VIII.
granted the Abbey at the Suppression,
has recumbent alabaster effigies of Sir
Anthony and his wife, under a canopy,
figures in relief of their children below,
and on one side a larger effigy of a lady.
Near this are mural brasses of Edward
Stacey, d. 1555, and wife Katherine, d.
1565; Thomas Colte, d. 1559, and wife
Magdalen, d. 1591. The regent Duke of
Bedford in his will directed that he
should be buried in Waltham Abbey ch.
if he died in England : he died at Rouen,
and was buried there.
Bishop Hall was for 22 years (1612, etc.)
curate of Waltham ; and " three degrees
from him in succession," came the witty
Thomas Fuller, who was curate from
1648 to 1658, and here wrote his ' Church
History,' and brief ' History of Waltham
Abbey,' and collected the materials and
laid the keel of the ' British Worthies.'
Some say it was at Waltham Abbey that
Foxe, the martyrologist, wrote his ' Acts
and Monuments.'
A gateway, known as the Abbey Gate,
by a low bridge which crosses the Corn
Mill Stream, a branch of the Lea, near
the Abbey Mills and a short distance
N.W. of the ch., is one of the few frag
ments left of the Abbey buildings. The
gateway, which has two good pointed
arches, a larger and a smalbr, led into
the court of the convent. The bridge
has a ribbed arch, and is sometimes called
Harold's Bridge. The Mill occupies the
site of the ancient abbey mill. A small
vaulted chamber known as the Potato-
house, in the Abbot's garden, now a
market-garden attached to the house in

the ch.-yard immediately behind the ch.,
is the only other relic of the Abbey left,
except a few fragments of wall and
some drains, which the local belief has
transformed into " subterraneous passages"
leading to Cheshunt Nunnery, and one
hardly knows where besides — except these,
nothing is left of the once extensive and
splendid Abbey buildings. The Abbey-
House, which Sir Anthony Denny and his
successors made their residence, the last
complete portion of the ancient Abbey,
was pulled down in 1770. Fragments of
sculpture,figuredtiles,metal-work,etc.,areoccasionally exhumed on the site or in
the neighbourhood of the Abbey. Con
siderable quantities of pilgrims' jettons
or groats have been found in the town.
The Holy Cross doubtless attracted
numerous pilgrims to Waltham. A few
years ago a stone mould was dug up in
Coleman Street, London, from which metal
casts were taken, to be worn by Waltham
pilgrims as the badges or insignia of their
pilgrimage. The mould was cruciform,
with a figure of a cross in the centre, sur
rounded by the legend, " Siynum Sonde
Crucis de Waltham." *
Henry III., a frequent visitor and
liberal benefactor to the Abbey, granted
to the Abbot the right of holding a weekly
market and an annual fair of 7 days' con
tinuance. The demands of the Abbot for
stallage at the fair, early led to disputes
with the citizens of London, and peace
was only made, 1256, after the Londoners
had refused to resort to Waltham fair for
three years and more, upon the Abbot
agreeing to refund all distresses, and
" granting to the Londoners acquittance
of all such stallage for ever." f
The market is still held every Tuesday,
and fairs in May and September. The
old Elizabethan Market-house was taken
down in 1852. In it the writer remem
bers to have seen a " pair of stocks,"
curious as being much carved, and bear
ing the date 1598. They were said to
have been taken in charge by the police
authorities, but on inquiring recently no
trace of them could be found. The
market-place is a large square, surrounded

* It is figured in the Proceedings of the Archaeol.
Association for 1873, p. 421.
+ Fitz Thedmar, Chron, of London, 1108—1274;
Maitland, Hist, of London, p. 52.

WALTHAM ABBEY.

655

WALTHAM CROSS.

by small houses, by what was the entrance
to the Abbey. The square is called the
Bramblings — a corruption of Romelands,
the name it bore when Fuller lived here,
and given to it, he says, because " the
rents peculiarly belonged to the Church
of Rome." But the open spaces in front
of the abbeys of St. Alban's and St.
Edmund's Bury were also called Rome-
lands, and Mr. Walcott thinks they were
so called " from rome, roomy, as in Rom-
ney, Romsey, etc. ," * but this seems very
doubtful. It was in the Romelands, accord
ing to Fuller, that Henry VIII. had the
"" pleasure-house " which other writers
place in " the meadows at Waltham."
The chief modern establishment in
Waltham, is the Royal Gunpowder Fac
tory, the only factory of the kind the
Government has, and where the modern
"pebble" and "cube" as well as the
old grain gunpowder is made. The
establishment includes works for re
fining saltpetre, and the preparation of
sulphur and charcoal. The works have
been greatly extended of late years, and
now occupy an area of nearly 200 acres.
The houses, detached and isolated, for
mixing the ingredients, pressing, granu
lating, drying, dusting, and barreling the
gunpowder, stretch along the banks of the
Lea and the islets formed by its dividing
streams, for a distance of more than three
miles. All the processes are carried
out here ; the powder, when packed in
barrels, being first placed in the Grand
Magazine, and then carried by the Lea
and the Thames to the magazines at
Purfleet. From 28,000 to 30,000 tons of
gunpowder are now made at Waltham
annually. Since the destruction of the works at
Stowmarket the manufacture of gun-
cotton by the wet process has been ex-
sively carried on at Waltham in a specially
constructed factory, and so far with entire
safety. The most stringent precautions
are taken at the Waltham works to pre
vent accident, and no serious explosion
has occurred for many years. By an Act
passed in 1875, the regulations adopted
at Waltham are made compulsory in all
gunpowder factories and magazines. From
January 1, 1876, such establishments are
* M. E. C. Walcott, Church and Conventual
Arrangement, p. 112.

placed under Government supervision.
Gunpowder mills had been " of late
erected " here, when Fuller wrote (about
1660) " the mills in my parish have been
five times blown up within seven years "
— we have improved in this matter since
then. The entrance to the Royal Gun
powder Factory is near the centre of
Highbridge Street : the entrance gates are
on both sides of the street.
In and around the town are flour
mills, malt kilns, and a brewery, and at
Farm Hill a manufactory of percussion
caps. Watercresses are largely grown,
and there are extensive market gardens.
The County Court (erected 1849) occu
pies the site of an old silk-printing mill.
Waltham Abbey has its weekly news
paper, literary institutes and reading-
rooms, two or three cricket clubs, and a
fishery. The hamlets of High Beech and
Sewardstone are noticed under those
headings. Holyfield and Upshire are
little scattered agricultural hamlets lying
2 m. N. and \\ m. E. of Waltham Abbey.
WALTHAM CROSS, Herts, a
hamlet of Cheshunt, on the Ware and
Hertford road, \1\ m. from London, 1 m.
W. of Waltham Abbey, and \ m. W. of
the Waltham Abbey Stat, of the Grt. E.
Rly. (Cambridge line). Pop. of the eccl.
dist. (formed in 1855), 3104.
Waltham Cross received its name from
the cross erected here by Edward I. in
memory of his wife Eleanor — but with
funds, as would seem, provided by the
Queen for the purpose.* Edward, it will
be remembered, built a cross at each of
the places where the corpse of his Queen
rested on its way from the neighbourhood
of Grantham, where she died (Nov. 28,
1291), to her burial-place at Westminster.
Of these beautiful structures only this at
Waltham and two others — one at Ged-
dington, the other at Northampton — re
main. This is by far the finest. It was
the work of Alexander of Abingdon
(called also Alexander de Imagineur),
Domenic de Leger (written Dymenge
de Legere) of Rheims, and Roger de
Crundale, and was completed in 1294.

* Thomas of Huntingdon, Chronicle, vol. i.
Rev. J. Hunter, in Archaeologia, vol. xxii,
ArchseoL Journal, vol. xvii.

WALTHAM CROSS.

656

WALTHAMSTOW.

The stone was brought from Caen, and
the total cost was £95.* It had fallen
into a terribly dilapidated condition, and
seemed hastening to ruin when its resto
ration was undertaken in 1833 by Mr. W.
B. Clarke. He executed the restoration
with great care and skill, but unhappily
deemed it necessary to rechisel and renew
so much of the old sculpture and carving
that it is even now difficult, and in a few
years will be impossible, to distinguish
the original work from the copy. As an
example of the art of the time of Edward
I., its value is irretrievably destroyed.
The Cross is hexagonal in plan, of three
diminishing stages, with buttresses at the
angles. The lowest stage, which is raised
on a stepped platform, is of rich panelled
tracery, under crocketed pediments,
each side being divided into two com
partments, in which are pendent shields
charged with the arms of England, Cas
tile and Leon, and Ponthieu. The second
storey has canopied niches, within which
are statues of Queen Eleanor. The third
stage, which is of solid masonry, com
paratively plain, is surmounted with a
thin finial and cross. The outline and
proportions are exceedingly graceful, and
the carving is admirable.
It stands on the E. of the main road,
close against the Falcon Inn, and at the
corner of the road to Waltham Abbey.
At the opposite corner is another and
larger inn, the Four Swans, formerly a
well-known posting-house. In it, accord
ing to the local legend, the body of
Eleanor remained for the night preced
ing its solemn entry into London. A
lagre signboard, supported on tall posts
placed on the opposite sides of the way,
swings across the road, and on it is in
scribed " Ye Old Four Swannes Hostelrie,
1260." It is an old inn, (and a good one
— Charles Lamb patronized it,) but some
centuries later than 1260.
There is Uttle besides the Cross to in
terest the stranger. He will, however,
do well to visit Mr. W. Paul's famous Rose
Nursery, a short distance past the Cross
on the rt. The district ch. of the Holy
Trinity is a plain brick building, Gothic
of 1832, but improved in 1872.

* Manners and Household Expenses in England,
printed for the Roxburgh Club, pp. 104 — 120 ;
Archaeol., xxix., p. 18-1.

WALTHAMSTOW, Essex, lies
between Leyton and Chingford, on the
road to Waltham Abbey, 6 m. from White-
chapel and Shoreditch churches. There
are four rly. stats, on the Chingford br. of
the Grt. E. Rly. — St. James's Street,
Hoe Street, Wood Street, and Hale
End. Pop. of the par. 11,092: thus
divided — district of mother-ch., 5717;
eccl. districts, formed 1844, St. James,
2323 ; St. John, 1915 ; St. Peter, 1137.
The par. is large (4470 acres), extending
for 3 m. along the highroad, and reach
ing back from the Lea at Tottenham to
Woodford and Snaresbrook. Lying on
the western edge of Epping Forest, at an
easy distance from town, it early became
a favourite residence with opulent citizens.
Sir Wm. Batten, Commissioner of the
Navy, Pepys's friend and colleague, had
his country seat at Walthamstow, and
thither Pepys often accompanied him.
One of his visits gives a curious little
picture of suburban life in the 17th
century : —
"1661. April 13th.— Sir W. Batten this day
gone with his lady to keep Easter 
'-April 18th. — About nine o'clock took horse
with both the Sir Williams (Batten and Penn),
for Walthamstow, and there we found my Lady
and her daughters all ; and a pleasant day it was,
and all things else, but my Lady was in a bad
moode, which we were troubled at, and had she
been noble, she would not have been so with her
servants, when we come together  After
dinner, we all went to the Church-stile, and there
eate and drank, and I was as merry as I could
counterfeit myself to be."
Six years later (Oct. 12, 1667), Pepys
records that " Sir W. Batten's body was to
day carried from hence, with a hundred
or two of coaches, to Walthamstow, and
there buried." But Sir Wm. Batten's was
not the only house Pepys visited at WTal-
thamstow. Among others, we find him on
" the King's birth-day " (May 29th, 1661)
taking coach with Sir W. Penn, having
first " put six spoons and a porringer of
silver " in his pocket, and " (the weather
and the way being f oule) went to Waltham-
stowe." There they heard the vicar,
"Mr. Radcliffe, my former schoolfellow
at St. Paul's, (who is yet a merry boy),"
preach a ¦' very simple " sermon ; then
" back to dinner at Sir W. Batten's ; and
then, after a walk in the fine gardens, we
went to Mrs. Browne's, where Sir W.
Pen and I were godfathers, and Mrs.

WALTHAMSTOW.

657

WALTHAMSTOW.

Jordan and Shipman godmothers to her
boy. ... I did give the midwife 10*.
and the nurse 5s., and the maid of the
house 2s. But forasmuch as I expected
to give the name to the childe, but did not
(it being called John,) I forbore then to
give my plate till another time, after a
little more advice." However three months
after (August 1st), " This morning Sir
Williams both, and my wife and I, and
Mrs. Margarett Pen went by coach to
Walthamstowe,a-gossipingto'Mrs.Browne, where I did give her six silver spoons for
her boy " — but kept the porringer.
Many of these 17th and 18th century
mansions remain ; old-fashioned, quaint,
roomy, embowered in trees, the type and
embodiment of quiet and substantial
home-comfort and respectability. Their
number is however steadily diminishing,
whilst more obtrusive and pretentious
villas are rising on every side.
Walthamstow is sometimes called a
town, but the houses collected about the
ch. scarcely form a village, the bulk of
the houses being in outlying hamlets, or
streets and ends, as they are for the moat
part named; Marsh Street, Hoe Street,
Wood Street, Clay Street, Sharnhall
Street, St. James Street, Chapel End, Hale
End, Higham End, Whip's Cross, and
Woodford Side. The country on the
forest side is varied and sylvan ; marshy
by the Lea, and rising into low hills
towards Chapel End and Chingford.
The manor of Walthamstow was in the
reign of the Confessor a part of the large
possessions of Waltheof Earl of Northum
berland, and at the Domesday Survey be
longed to his widow, the Countess Judith,
niece of the Conqueror. Their daughter
carried it by marriage to Ralph de Toni,
son of Toni the standard-bearer to
William I., in whose descendants it con
tinued till 1309, when it went by marriage
to Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick.
About the middle of the 15th cent, the
manor passed by marriage to the Ross
family ; early in the following cent, to
Sir Thomas Lake, who sold it to Sir George
Rodney, and he in 1639 disposed of it to
William Lord Maynard, in whose family
it remains. There are sub-manors, but
their history is complicated, and of no
general interest.
The Church (of the Virgin Mary) is
mainly of brick, the body covered with

cement, and of no architectural merit. I
comprises nave, aisles, chancel, and tower
with turret, at the W. end. The S. aisle was
built in 1635 by Robert Thome, a famous
merchant of London and Bristol, founder
of the Grammar School, Bristol, and a
scholarship in Merchant Taylors' School,
London. The chapel at the E. end of the
N. aisle, and the tower, were built about
the same time by Sir George Monox. In
the tower is a peal of 6 bells.
The interior is not more beautiful than
the outside, and the pews and galleries do
not add to its attractiveness. But the
monts. are interesting. In the Monox
Chapel is the tomb of the founder, Sir
George Monox, some time Lord Mayor of
London, d. 1543, and wife Ann, d. 1500.
On the wall are brasses with effigies of Sir
George and his lady, and shield of arms
of the Drapers' Company ; the insc. lost.
Lady Lucy Stanley, daughter and coheir
of Thomas Earl of Northumberland, and
wife of Sir Edward Stanley ; with life-size
kneeling effigy under an arch. Four of
her daughters are buried with her under
this mont. ; 3 survived her, one of whom
was Venetia, wife of Sir Kenelm Digby,
of whose beauty so much has been written.
In the chancel, an elaborate mont. of
Elizabeth, wife of Sir Thomas Merry, d.
1632, with their busts in marble, and below
their 4 children in high relief. It was
executed by Nicholas Stone, who received
£50 for it. In the Thorne Chapel, at the
E. end of the S. aisle, are monts. to Sir
Gerard Conyers, Lord Mayor of London,
d. 1737, and other members of the
Conyers family ; and a brass of George
Johnson, minister of the Gospel, d. 1576,
with effigy in pulpit. At the W. end of
the aisle, mont. with life-size effigies of
Sigismond Trafford, of Dunton Hall,
Lincoln, d. 1723, and wife, Susannah, d.
1689. There are also monts. to other mem
bers of the Trafford family ; — to the May-
nards, Lowthers, Coles, Bonnells, etc., —
and a small brass to — Hale, d. 1588, and
wife, the effigy of the latter mutilated.
The ch.-yard abounds in tombs ; the
most noticeable perhaps is one E. of the
ch. to Thomas Turner, d. 1714 ; it is sur
rounded by a railing, and has a yew tree
at each corner. It is kept in repair out
of a sum of money left for the purpose.
Obs. the great elm by the N. entrance to
the eh. -yard. 42

WALTHAMSTOW.

658

WALTON-ON-THE-HILL.

N. of the ch.-yard are a Grammar
School and a range of low almshouses,
founded and endowed by Aid. Sir George
Monox, whose mont. we have just seen.
In the almshouses are 13 pensioners.
Almshouses founded by Mary Squire pro
vide for 6 more.
There are three district churches —
St. James, Marsh Street ; St. John, Chapel
End; and St. Peter, Forest Side— to be
commended rather for their usefulness
than beauty. St. Saviour's Church, Mark-
house Road, erected in 1874 at the cost of
Messrs. R. Foster and J. Knowles (who
also provided the endowment and built
the parsonage), claims notice as an
elegant and well-finished structure. It
is of Kentish rag ; early Dec. in style ;
and was designed by Mr. T. F. Dolman.
The Monox Grammar School has been
mentioned. More important is the Forest
School, Forest Side, near Snaresbrook,
founded 1834 in connection with King's
College, which is a large and flourishing
institution. Here are besides a School for
Daughters of Missionaries, and a Roman
Catholic Home for Orphan Boys. Sherne
Hall (G. A. Grimwood, Esq.) was for
several years the residence of Cardinal
Wiseman. Benjamin Disraeli was edu
cated at Mr. Logan's academy, Higham
Hill. George Gascoigne, the Elizabethan
poet, is said to have been a native of
Walthamstow ; in his maturer years it
was his usual residence : he dates the dedi
cation of his ' Complaynt of Philomeal '
from his " pore house at Walthamstow
the sixteenth of April 1575." Guillim,
the herald, was resident at Walthamstow
when he wrote the account of Queen
Elizabeth's funeral published in the
' Monumenta Vetusta.'
The Walthamstow Marshes in the valley
of the Lea have within the last eight or
ten years opened a new and rich field of
interesting inquiry. Till about a century
ago Epping Forest extended down to the
Lea, and it was only in 1777 that this
district was disafforested. It has since
been for the most part pasture land ; but
a few years back the East London Water
works Company commenced the construc
tion of two vast reservoirs, capable of
storing 600 million gallons of water, ex
tending for considerably more than a mile
along the Lea, and covering an area of

about 120 acres. The average depth ex
cavated was about 10 feet, but the
trenches made for the retaimng or
'puddle' walls, were from 20 to 24 ft.
deep. The excavations were all in* post-
tertiary deposits — loam, peat clays, sands,
and sub-angular and rolled gravels — but
the remains brought to light proved to be
of unexpected value. An old bed of the
Lea was passed through; and a sub
merged forest tract was laid bare, — a tract
which naturalists and geologists concurred
in believing had been flooded by beaver-
dams, and in which the remains of beavers
were abundant, along with the remains of
the elk (the most southerly locality in
which they have yet been found), red-
deer, roe-buck, moose, and reindeer ; ox
(Bos primigenius, B. longifrons, and an
other); horse (Equus caballus), elephant
(E. primigenius), wolf , fox, wild-boar, to
gether with a great variety of land and
fresh- water shells, and, what was not least
interesting, a considerable number of
works of man'sindustry — flint implements,
bronze spear and arrow heads, knives, a
sword, and a few fragments of pottery —
but we believe no remains of man him
self. The vegetable remains were, as may
be supposed, very abundant. In the beds
above the sandy marl, trees were brought
to light "with their spreading roots in
situ, but in most instances converted into
lignite and coated with bog-iron ore."
Oak and alder appeared to be the most
common trees, hazel nuts were abundant.
The peat bed was in places over 3 ft.
thick.*
WALTON -ON- THE - HILL,
Surrey, so called from its position, and to
distinguish it from Walton-on-Thames.
occupies an outlying patch of Thanet
Sand on the southern side of the Epsom
Downs, and is 2J m. N. of the Betchworth
Stat, of the S.-E. Rly. (Dorking and
Guildford branch), and 44 S. by E. of
Epsom. Pop. 543. Inn, the Chequers.
Away from a main road, on a height
overlooking the broad furze-clad Walton
Heath, Walton-on-the-Hill is a pleasant
and not unpicturesque village of com
fortable commonplace dwellings climbing
* H. Woodward, F.R.S., on 'Freshwater De
posits of the Valley of the Lea near Walthamstow,
Essex,' in Geol. Mag., Sept. 1869; Notes made
during the excavations.

WALTON-ON-THE-HILL.

659

WALTON- UPON-THAMES .

the hill-side, and clustering about the ch.,
on the summit, an old manor-house and
abundant trees. Beyond, stretching miles
away, are the breezy, health-inspiring
heath, and smooth chalk downs. The oc
cupations are agricultural, and there is a
race-horse and training establishment.
The manor, which had belonged at the
end of the 13th cent, to John de Lovetot,
one of the King's judges ; afterwards to
John de Drokensf ord, Keeper of the Great
Seal, and Bp. of Bath and Wells; the
Earl de Warren, Sir John Arundel, and
others, passed at length to the Crown, and
was assigned by Henry VI. to his newly
founded college of Eton. But the grant
was cancelled by Edward IV., who settled
the manor on his Queen, Elizabeth Wood
ville. By Henry VIII. it was given to
his consort Katherine of Aragon. In
1533 he granted it to Sir Nicholas Carew
of Beddington, and it followed the fate
of the Beddington property. (See Bed
dington.) It now belongs to E. Studd,
Esq. The old manor-house, Walton Place,
was long used as a farm-house, but is now
the residence of C. H. Cumberland, Esq.
It stands near the ch., has thick walls,
stout buttresses, and curious old chimney-
pieces, and is surrounded by a moat. It
is one of the many houses assigned as the
dwelling-place of Anne of Cleves after her
divorce, and may in part be as old as her
time, but the larger part is much more
modern. A chapel, in which was a stone
pulpit, existed as part of the house as late
as 1780. Other seats are the Hermitage
(Mrs. Rostock) ; The Oaks (T. H. Fischer,
Esq.); Frith Park (A. Holford, Esq.);
Feeble Combe (T. H. Perks, Esq.)
The Church (St. Peter) was almost
entirely rebuilt, in very tasteless fashion,
in 1822. The most noticeable feature is
the elaborate though by no means beau
tiful octagonal tower, of 3 stages, of flint
and stone, with buttresses and tall pinna
cles. Inside, the only thing worth notice
is a richly ornamented circular leaden font
of late Norman date. Around it' is an
arcade of 9 arches, within each of which
is the seated figure of a bishop or a saint.
Only one or two other examples are
known. Remains of a Roman villa, and among
the dibris a bronze statuette of jEscu-
lapius, were found on Walton Heath in

1772 ; and in 1802 further vestiges of
what was supposed to have been " the
pretorium of a Roman station " were un
covered. There is a delightful walk
across Walton Heath to Betchworth
Clump ; and thence, with ever-varying
and beautiful prospects, along the chalk
ridge to Box Hill, or in the opposite direc
tion towards Reigate. Nor less exhili-
rating are the walks or rides over the
Downs to Epsom and Banstead.
WALT ON-UPON-TH AMES,
Surrey, on the rt. bank of the Thames,
about midway (4 m.) between Chertsey
and Hampton ; 17 m. from London by
road, and 1 m. N. from the Walton Stat.
of the L. and S.-W. Rly. Pop. of the
town dist. 2036, of the par. 5383, * but
this includes the eccl. districts of Oat-
lands and Hersham. Inn, Duke's Head.
Walton (Waltun, or Wealtun — Waltone
in Dom. — a walled or fortified place) no
doubt derived its name from having been
at a very early period an enclosed military
town or outpost. Remains of important
earthworks are still extant in the vicinity,
a rampart or boundary dyke extended
from it to St. George's Hill, and a strongly
fortified ford crossed the Thames just
above where it is now crossed by Walton
Bridge. (See St. George's Hill, p.-229,
and Cowey Stakes, p. 119.)
Walton is a large village, or small town,
stretching back from the Thames and
running out into many irregular streets.
The church is on the London side of the
village ;. beyond it broad meadows border
the Thames; away from the river stretches
the wide sandy heath called Walton
Common, covered with gorse and ling,
and bordered with fir woods ; and south
ward are the large and finely timbered
parks of Oatlands, Ashley, and Burwood.
The Thames affords good fishing and
boating, besides adding life and beauty to
the scenery. Altogether a desirable
locality, as- is shown by the numerous
villas, Italian and Gothic, of every variety
of type, which have been built, or are
building, wherever land could be ob
tained. When the Conqueror took inventory of
the soil, the manor of Walton belonged to
Edward of Salisbury, whose daughter
Maud carried it by marriage to a relative
of the King, Humphrey de Bohun, whose

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

660

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

son was created Earl of Hereford. The
manor remained in the Bohun family till
1373, when on failure of heirs male it
passed by marriage to Henry of Boling-
broke, who assumed the Bohun's title of
Earl of Hereford, and on the deposition
of Richard II. ascended the throne as
.Henry IV. As part of the personal es
tate of Henry VI., Walton was vested by
parliamentary enactment in Edward IV.
Leases of the estate were, with certain re
servations, granted by Henry VIII. and
succeeding monarchs down to Charles I.,
who in 1630 granted the manor in fee,
at a quit rent, to Sir William Russell.
This rent was conveyed in 1650 to WilUam
Lilly, the astrologer. The manor passed to
Francis Drake (1678), Phillips, and many
more, till at the close of the 18th cent, it
was bought by the Duke of York, who
then held Oatlands. From him it was
purchased by Edward Hughes Ball
Hughes, and is now the property of J. E.
Paine,. Esq. The manor of Walton-Leigh
was also bought by the Duke of York,
and has since passed with the superior
manor. Apps Court is noticed under that
heading. The chief object of interest in Walton
is .the Church (St. Mary). It is large and
old, but so much patched and altered as
to be externally far from handsome and
hardly picturesque. It is of flint, rough
stone,, and hard chalk, but mended with
brick, and in parts covered with plaster.
It has nave with aisles, deep chancel, and
heavy W. tower, in which is a peal of
6 bells. The piers of the nave arcade
are late .Norman, the outer walls and
windows of various dates, some being
quite recent insertions, whilst those which
are old haxe been defaced. The interior
of the oh. has been partially restored, and
the E. window filled with painted glass.
The organ is by Father Schmidt. A pier
near the pulpit bears deeply engraven the
verses attributed to Queen Elizabeth —
" Christ was the Worde and spake it :
He took the Bread and brake it ;
And what the Worde doth make it,
That I believe, and take it."
Some of the monts. are noteworthy. In
the N. aisle the large and costly mont.,
by Roubiliac, of Field-Marshal Richard
Boyle, 2nd (and last) Lord Shannon, d.
1740, erected by his only daughter, Grace
Countess of Middlesex. On a lofty base

ment of grey marble is a pedestal of black
marble, upon which is the life-size statue
of Lord Shannon in full military costume,
and holding a marshal's baton in his hand.
Immediately behind him is a lowered flag,
behind and above which is a military tent.
On either side are cannon, kettle-drums,
flags, and other military insignia. At the
foot of the pedestal is a statue of Lady
Shannon, kneeling and looking upwards.
The whole forms one of Roubiliac's most
characteristic works, executed in his best
manner. Chantrey's mourning female on
the mont. of Christopher D'Oyley, d.
1795, and wife Sarah, d. 1833, looks but
feeble after that of Lady Shannon. In
the chancel is a marble mont. by Gott, of
Rome, to Mary, wife of Sir Thomas
Williams, of Burwood House, d. 1824,
with figures in high relief representing
Faith consoling Grief. Others are to Sir
Henry Fletcher of Ashley Park, d. 1807 ;
Thomas Kirby, S.T.P., d. 1721, with Ionic
pilasters supporting a cornice, on which
are small figures of " Genii, one ex
tinguishing a torch, the other sounding a
trumpet," and a much more modest
tablet over the vestry door to Henry
Skrine, LL.B., d. at Walton, 1803, the
author of ' A General Account of all the
Rivers of note in Great Britain.' This,
which is by the younger Bacon, has a
rilievo-of a large oak skrineing (screening,
protecting,) some saplings — in allusion
to his generous care of his relatives.
A "fair black marble stone" on the
floor in front of the S. entrance to the
chancel, records the burial here, 1681, of
William Lilly, " Astrologi peritissimi," —
*"**¦* Who not far from hence did dwell
That cunning man hight Sidrophel."
Lilly was buried on " the left side of the
communion table," and this stone was
placed over his grave to mark the spot
by Elias Ashmole — costing him, as he
notes, £6 is.Gd., — but removed to its pre
sent unmeaning position several years
back. By the altar is a slab to Jerome
Weston, Earl of Portland, d. 1662.
Screwed on to a board in an oaken
frame on the N. wall of the chancel, by
the entrance to the vestry, are 4 small
brasses, which were long left loose in the
vestry. They represent John Selwyn, d.
1587, his wife, and their 5 sons and 6
daughters. Selwyn was "keeper of heT

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

661

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

Ma'ties Parke of Otelande,'' and one of the
brasses represents him on the back of a
stag, into the neck of which he is thrusting
his hunting knife. The traditional ex
planation is that Selwyn, who was an
accomplished rider, at a grand stag-hunt
at Oatlands, at which Elizabeth was pre
sent, in the heat of the chase threw him
self from his horse on to the back of the
stag, and seizing its horns, by them and
his conteau guided the terrified animal
towards the Queen, and when he came
near her, plunged his knife into the
creature's throat so that it fell dead at
Her Majesty's feet. A somewhat different
version of the event is engraved on the
reverse of the brass, but cannot of course
be seen, since it has been screwed to the
board. The principal difference is that
on the back Selwyn is represented grasp
ing one of the antlers with his left hand,
bare-headed and spurred.
In the vestry is still preserved a brank.
scold's bit, or gossip's bridle. It consists
of a horizontal circlet of ironj that goes
round the face, and another with hinges
at right angles to it which goes over the
head, fixes a thin projecting piece of iron
in the mouth so as to hold down the
tongue, and is then secured by a padlock.
The scold or gossip with this apparatus
on her head was led through the town
by the beadle, or exposed in the market
place. The Walton bridle has on it the
date 1633, and the following inscription
(now, however, illegible) : —
" Chester presents Walton with a Bridle
To curb Women's tongues that talk too idle."
The tradition is that the donor having
suffered grievously — some say lost an
estate — by the idle talk of a gossiping
woman, took this mean6 of avenging him
self upon the sex.
In the churchyard are many tombs to
persons of local consequence, but none of
wider interest. Here lies, but without
a memorial, Wm. Maginn, LL.D., the
Ensign O'Doherty of ' Blackwood,' the
satirist and Homeric ballad writer of
' Fraser,' who died at Walton,' in a house
opposite the Bear Inn, Aug. 20, 1842.
At the back of Church Street, on the rt.
towards the river (the lane by the Old
Manor House Inn leads to it) is the House
of President Bradsham. It consists of a
long low centre with deep tiled roof,

between slightly projecting gabled wings
and is formed of a very solid timber
framing, bricks, and plaster. It was a
plain half-timber mansion of the reign of
James I., but from long neglect has be
come terribly dilapidated, dirty, squalid,
and unwholesome ; and is divided into 6
or 7 tenements, the occupants of which
are miserably poor. In the ground floor
of the W. wing is a panelled room which
has a chimneypiece of carved oak, with
coupled columns, cornice, etc, but much
defaced and covered with whitewash.
The massive beam which crosses the ceil
ing is also elaborately carved. Traditions
that Charles I.'s death warrant was signed
in this room ; that there was a subterra
neous passage from the house under the
Thames ; and that the ghost of its regi
cide master haunted the old rooms, used
of old to linger about the house, but now
all seem to be lost. Whilst Bradshaw
lived here, Charles occasionally kept his
court at Oatlands — how little the neigh
bours could have imagined the relation in
which before long they would stand to
each other I
A short distance S.W. of Walton ch., on
the rt. of the road to the rly. stat. , is
Ashley Park (Mrs. Sassoon). The house,
a large, red-brick Elizabethan mansion, is
locally said to have been. built by Wolsey,
and occupied by Henry VIII. and Oliver
Cromwell. For this there is no better
foundation than the fact of Henry VIII.
having purchased the estate in order to
throw it into his honour of Hampton
Court. Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth
granted leases of Ashley, and James I.
gave it in fee to Christopher Villiers Earl
of Anglesea, a younger brother of the
favourite, Buckingham. In 1668 Ashley
was held by Henry Lord Arundel ; after
wards by Sir Walter Clarges ; by Sir
Richard Pyne Lord Chief Justice of
Ireland; and in 1718 was purchased by
Richard Boyle, Lord Shannon, who altered
and enlarged the house, and added greatly
to the park. Lord Shannon died at Ashley
Park in 1740, and was buried in Walton
ch., where is Roubiliac's splendid mont. to
his memory. Ashley Park passed to his
daughter Grace, Countess of Middlesex,
who bequeathed it to her cousin, Colonel
John Stephenson. On his death it
passed to a nephew of the Countess of
Middlesex, Sir Henry Fletcher, in whose

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

662

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

family it remained till purchased by the
late S. D. Bassoon, Esq., about 1864. The
house has a long front with projecting
wings, bays, and gables, evidently of
the reign of Elizabeth or James, but
much altered long subsequently. It con
tains some good apartments, but 'the
chief features of the interior are the
Great Hall, which occupies the entire
height of the building, and the Gallery,
which extends the whole length of one
side of the house, 100 ft. The park, of
about 300 acres, is varied, picturesque, and
richly wooded. The Scotch firs are re
markably fine, and there are noble elms,
oaks, limes, aspens, and cedars.
Adjoining Ashley Park on the W. is
Oatlands, but this will be more con
veniently noticed under Weybridg-e.
Burwood Park, on the opposite side of
Walton Common, the residence till his
decease of the late Sir Richard Frederick,
Bart., but now unoccupied and for sale, is
a low and poor stucco-fronted pile with
central portico of 4 columns built by Sir
John Frederick at the end of the 18th
cent. It stands in the midst of a park of
nearly 400 acres, within a belt of fir trees,
level in surface, but falling towards the S.
It has many fine and picturesque old oaks
and pines, ancient thorns, and tall beeches,
abundant fern and underwood. S. of the
house is a chain of ponds.
S. of Burwood is Burhill(¥. T. Bircham,
Esq.), a good house which belonged to
Peter De la Porte, a director of the South
Sea Company, who was fined £10,000 for
his share in the company's proceedings.
Mr. De la Porte bequeathed Burhill to
General Johnson, in whose family (his son
having assumed the name of Tynte) it
remained till within the last few years.
Burwood House, some way farther S.,
was the property and seat of Admiral
Sir Thomas Williams, on whose death, in
1841, it was purchased by Lord Francis
Egerton, afterwards Earl of Ellesmere,
and is now the residence of the Countess
Dowager Ellesmere. The house stands
within very beautiful grounds which ad
join the Countess's fine estate, St.
Georg-e's Hill. (See that heading.)
S. of St. George's Hill is Silvermere
(Chas. E. Smith, Esq.), a handsome and
convenient house, designed by George
Atkinson, the architect, for his own resi
dence. The grounds, taken from the

waste, are large, command extensive views,
and have a natural lake 10 acres in area.
Pain's Hill, farther S., is noticed under
Cobham. Mount Felix (Mrs. Ingram), on the
Thames, at the foot of Walton Bridge, is
an elegant Italian villa, built, or remodelled
from an older house, by Mr. (afterwards
Sir) Charles Barry, in 1837-39, for Charles
5th Earl of Tankerville. The house is
noteworthy as the first attempt to intro
duce the true Italian villa, with the Italian
roofs and campanile, into England. It
was sold on the death of Lord Tankerville,
and has been much altered by subsequent
possessors. It is now more capacious
and more splendid, but has lost much
of its original elegance, refinement, and
charm. The grounds are very fine, cele
brated for the great variety of beautiful
trees and shrubs, and especially the mag
nificent cedars and silver firs. Other seats
are the Manor House (Fred. Lee Bevan,
Esq.) ; and Brokenhurst House (E. H.
Lushington, Esq.) Holme Lodge is the
residence of the distinguished painter of
oriental scenery and character, John F.
Lewis, R.A.
The Thames at Walton is very attrac
tive. From the bridge there are lovely
reaches both up and down the stream.
One of Turners most charming home
landscapes is his Walton Bridge — a com
paratively early work. The present Wal
ton Bridge is less picturesque than that
Turner painted, but the river is no less
lovely, and .the banks are even more richly
wooded. This part of the stream is also
in great favour with anglers. From Mount
Felix, for 250 yards eastward, is Walton
Sale, the Thames Conservancy preserve,
famous for pike, which are taken here up
to 20 lb. weight. Trout are not uncom
mon ; and there is good bottom-fishing for
roach, dace, chub, and barbel. For boat
ing, the river here is most enjoyable.
A bridge was constructed over the
Thames from Cowey Hill, by Mount Felix,
Walton, to Shepperton, on the Middlesex
shore, at the cost of Mr. Samuel Decker,
in 1747-50, the architect being a Mr. W.
Etheridge. It was a very peculiar struc
ture, the main fabric being of oak, very
strongly put together, the centre arch 132
ft. in span, and rising 26 ft. above flood-
water level, with side arches of 44 ft., and
others of diminishing span towards the

WALTON-UPON-THAMES.

663

WANDSWORTH.

shore, the shore arches on each bank being
of brick. Mr. Decker was sanguine that
his bridge would last for 200 years with
out any repairs ; but before 30 had passed
the bridge had become unsafe. For the 3
central arches, 4 of stone were now sub
stituted, the rest of the wooden fabric
being replaced with brick. The architect
was James Paine, the builder of Chertsey
and Kew bridges, and the most dis
tinguished bridge-builder of his day. It
had a somewhat longer life than its pre
decessor, but was equally unfortunate. In
1859 the central arch suddenly fell and
the other arches were found to be insecure.
A new bridge was constructed of lattice
girders of iron on brick piers, very similar
to that at Hampton Court, and by the
same engineer, Mr. E. F. Murray, and
opened in 1863. If less picturesque than
the old bridge, it is more convenient, being
far less steep, and affording a clearer
water-way. The main bridge is joined to
the Surrey roadway by a second bridge of
1-5 brick arches, thrown across the hollow
of a long meadow which is flooded in
winter. The bridge was made free of toll
in 1870.
A short distance above Walton Bridge
is the site of Cowey Stakes, where Caesar
is supposed to have crossed the Thames.
(See Cowey Stakes.) Bronze swords
and other early remains have at different
times been found in the Thames near
Walton Bridge, and quite recently an
ancient British gold coin was dredged up.
The hamlet of Hersham (anc. Hevers-
Aam, Heverisham, from the Hevers family,
who had property and a residence here)
lies to the E. of Burwood Park, about
IJ m. S. of Walton, across the Common,
and£ m. S.E. from Walton Station. Hers
ham was made an eccl. dist. in 1851, and
had 2090 inhab. in 1871. A pleasant and
healthy little village, it has, since the
opening of the rly., become encompassed
with a belt of good villa residences. The
church (of the Holy Trinity) is a neat
chapel-like structure, of Suffolk brick and
stone, Norman in style, with a shallow
tower at the W. end, terminating in an
open bell turret ; it was erected in 1839,
from the designs of Mr. Thos. Bellamy.
Hersham was the residence of Lilly, the
astrologer. He had a house here as early
as 1636, but he only gave up his London
dwelling and settled in Hersham in 1665.

In the interval he had acquired a good
deal of property in the neighbourhood,
and he lived here as a person of considera
tion. He died at Hersham in June 1681,
and, as already mentioned, was buried in
the chancel of Walton ch.
Oatlands, St. Mary, is another eccl. dist.
in Walton par., created 1869 ; pop. 2090
in 1871. It is of quite recent growth,
having arisen from the erection of a num
ber of villa residences on the southern
side of Oatlands Park, and partly on land
enclosed from Walton Common. A street
or two of shops and cottages followed, and
in 1862 a pretty little church was built
from the designs of Messrs. Francis, facing
the Common and Burwood Park. It is
of Kentish rag and Bath-stone, early Dec.
in style, has an apsidal chancel, bell turret,
and glazed S. porch. A N. aisle was added
in 1873. It stands in a prettily planted
and well-kept piece of ground on the
edge of the Common, with a dark back
ground of thick fir plantations.
The long flat red-brick building by the
railway and facing the Common, between
Oatlands and Hersham, is the home of
the Metropolitan Convalescent Institution,
founded in 1854, to provide a temporary
asylum for poor convalescent patients
leaving the London hospitals. The build
ing was erected in 1854, from the designs
of Mr. J. Clarke, and though not to be
commended for its exterior is said to be
well adapted to its purpose. The situa
tion, at least, is as good as could have been
found. The chapel in the grounds was
built in 1870, and the home enlarged. It
now provides beds for 280 adults ; whilst
the branch at Kingston Hill affords ac
commodation for 150 children. Each
patient remains about 4 weeks in the
homes — more than 3000 convalescents
thus obtaining annually benefit of change
of scene and a breath of country air
before returning to their ordinary occu
pations. More could be done if the funds
were more abundant. Office, 32, Sackville
Street, Piccadilly.
WANDSWORTH, Surrey, on the
river Wandle at its confluence with the
Thames, 5J m. from Westminster Bridge,
on the road to Kingston. The L. and
S.-W., and the L., C, and D. Rlys. have
stations at Wandsworth. Pop. of the
par. 19,783 ; but this includes the vicarage

WANDSWORTH.

664

WANDSWORTH.

of St. Anne's Hill, 10,116, and the eccl.
dist. of St. Mary, Summer's Town, 1435,
and 1853 in St. John's, Union Road,
Battersea. The name, Dom. Wdndelesorde and
Wandesore, in early records Wandles-
worth, is plainly derived from its situation :
it is the worth, or village (i.e. enclosed
place), on the river Wandle.
From the increase of London, Wands
worth has become virtually a suburb.
It is a busy place, has extensive manu
factures and a large trade, and is con
tinuously increasing in population. On
the Wandle, the entrance from South
Street, are the Royal Paper Mills of Mr.
M'Murray, a very large establishment ;
and there are extensive corn mills, dis
tilleries (Messrs. Watney's), breweries,
maltings, dye-works, chemical works,
colour factories, cloth printing and bolt
ing mills, match factories, artificial manure
works, and so forth; and the creek at
the mouth of the Wandle forms a dock
for lighters, with coal wharfs and stores.
By the Thames the ways are narrow and
dirty, but away from the river are broader
streets lined with good shops ; outside is
a vast number of genteel dwellings, and
about the Common, and on East and
West Hills, are many good houses. The
Common has suffered greatly from en
croachments and defacements; but it re
mains a common still, wide, open, and
pleasant; connected, on the one hand,
with Putney Heath, on the other with
Clapham Common, and running back to
Tooting and Streatham Commons.
Aubrey relates that before his time
there had been established at Wandsworth
a manufacture of " brass plates for kettles,
skellets, frying-pans, etc., by Dutchmen,
who keep it a mystery." The houses in
which the mystery was carried on were
long known as the Frying-pan Houses.
Dye works were in operation here at least
as early. Towards the close of the 17th
cent., many of the French Protestants
who sought refuge in England upon the
revocation of the Edict of Nantes, settled
in Wandsworth, and engaged in silk
dyeing, hat making, etc. For their worship
they rented and enlarged the old Pres
byterian chapel in the High Street, and
in it service was performed in French for
over a century. Gradually the French
element became absorbed in the surround

ing population, but Wandsworth was long
famous for hat making. At the parting
of the roads to Clapham and Vauxhall is
a small burial-ground — the Huguenots'
Cemetery — where many old gravestones of
Frenchmen remain, some almost illegible.
From the many English names on the
later gravestones it appears to have been
used as the ordinary burial-ground for
that end of the parish when the Huguenot
population began to die out.
A very different French refugee made
Wandsworth for some time his abode.
On Voltaire's release from his second
imprisonment in the Bastille, he was
ordered to leave France, and he came
to England. For two years, 1726-7, he
lived at Wandsworth, the guest of Sir
Everard Fawkener, to whom he dedicated
' Zaire.' He was in bad health, but he
occupied himself in studying Enghsh
books, and picked up a sufficient ac
quaintance with the language to write in
it tolerably for the rest of his life.
Wandsworth Bridge. — In 1873 was
completed a new iron lattice girder bridge
of five spans, connecting York Road,
Wandsworth, with King's Road, Fulham.
It is described more fully under Fulham,
p. 227.
Wandsworth has five churches. The
old church (All Saints), in the High
Street, near the bridge over the Wandle,
is a plain square brick fabric, erected in
1780, except the tower at the W. end,
which was built in 1630, but recased in
1841, and raised by the addition of a
belfry storey for the reception of a peal
of 8 bells, cast by Mears of Whiteehapel.
The interior is not more beautiful than
the outside, but contains a few interesting
monts. from the older ch. On the E.
wall, S. of the chancel, mural mont. of
Alderman Henry Smith, died 1627, with
his effigy, in gown and ruff, kneeling at
a desk, under an entablature borne on
Ionic columns. Beneath is a tablet with
an insc. setting forth his numerous bene
factions. Aid. Smith was a native of
Wandsworth, of humble lineage ; ac
quired what was for the time a large
fortune by business in the City ; married,
but was left a widower without children,
and in 1620, being then 72 years of age,
made over his estates, both real and
personal, to trustees for charitable pur
poses, reserving to himself an annuity

WANDSWORTH.

665

WANDSWORTH.

from them of £500 a year for his main
tenance. His benefactions embraced every
town and almost every parish in Surrey,
the object being not merely to afford
" reliefe of the poore," but the " setting
them a-worke." Smith gave primarily
and chiefly to his native county, but his
charity was not limited to it. Among
other bequests he left £1000 to purchase
lands, in order to provide a fund for
" redeeming poor captives and prisoners
from the Turkish tyranie;" £10,000 to
'* buy impropriations for godly preachers ; "
£160 to found a fellowship at Cambridge
for his own kindred, etc. The statement
on the insc. — " here lyeth," repeated in a
Latin insc. on a gravestone below, is in
accurate : there is no trace of interment
under the grave-stone ; that and the
mont. were removed from the older ch.,
and Smith's burial-place is unknown.
By Smith's is another mural mont.,
with small kneeling effigy of Susanna
Powell, d. 1630, benefactress to this
parish, widow of John Powell, servant to
Queen Elizabeth, and daughter of Thomas
Hayward, yeoman of the guard to
Henry VIII., Edward VI., and the queens
Mary and Elizabeth. N. of chancel, mont.
to Sir Thomas Brodrick, died 1641, and
wife, Katherine, d. 1678, with their
busts in marble. Sir Alan Brodrick,
Surveyor-General of Ireland, d. 1680 ;
Alan Brodrick, 1st Viscount Middleton,
d. 1747 ; George Brodrick, 2nd Viscount
Middleton, d. 1765, and other members
of the family were also buried here.
Their house was at Garrett. The register
records the burial, April 1635, of " Sarah,
daughter of Praise Barbone," supposed to
be the " Praise-God Barebone,"the Puritan
leather-seller of Fleet Street, who gave
his name to Cromwell's first or "Uttle"
Parliament. Griffith Clerke, vicar of Wandsworth,
his chaplain, his servant, and Friar
Ware, were hanged and quartered, at
St. Thomas Waterings (by the Old Kent
Road, then the usual place of execution
for this part of Surrey), on the 8th of July,
1539, for denying the royal supremacy.
St. Anne's Church, St. Anne's Hill,
made a district ch. in 1847, was erected
in 1822-24 from the designs of Sir Robert
Smirke, R.A. It is a Grecian temple,
100 ft. by 70, with a hexastyle Ionic
portico and pediment at the W. end.

The body of the ch. is of brick with stone
dressings, the portico and pediment are
of stone. From the roof rises a circular
tower in two stages, with engaged columns,
and crowned with a cupola and cross :
a ch. worth noting as a characteristic
example of a past phase of fashion in
ecclesiastical architecture.
St. Mary, Summer's Town, Garrett, was
made an eccl. dist. ch. in 1845. The ch.
is very poor E.E., and consists of nave,
S. aisle, and bell turret. St. Paul's, on
St. John's Hill, a chapel-of-ease, belongs
as much to Battersea as to Wandsworth.
It is a good Gothic building of stone,
with tower and spire, and apsidal chancel.
Holy Trinity, by Wimbledon Park, another
chapel-of-ease, is a substantial stone
structure ; Gothic, and cruciform ; erected
in 1860, and enlarged in 1870.
There are many dissenting places of
worship, one for Friends, and one for
Roman Catholics. It should be noted
that the first Presbyterian Church in
England was founded at Wandsworth in
1572 : their principles of church govern
ment and rules of worship were set forth
in a publication called ' The Orders of
Wandsworth.' *
The secular buildings include a County
Court, Police Court, offices of the District
Board of Works, banks, large schools, me
chanics' institutes, etc., but none of any
architectural interest.
Wandsworth has many almhouses and
charitable institutions, and the open
country outside has been chosen as the
site for several large establishments un
connected with the locality. On the
Common, near the Clapham Station, is the
Royal Patriotic Asylum, founded and
endowed from the surplus funds of the
Crimean Patriotic Fund of 1854, for the
nurture and education of orphan chil
dren of soldiers, sailors, and marines. The
first stone of the asylum for girls was laid
by the Queen, July 11, 1857. The buUd
ing, intended for the accommodation of
300 children, was designed by Mr. Rhode
Hawkins, as a free imitation — with some
important deviations and the omission
of the ornamental details— of Heriot's
Hospital, Edinburgh. At a short distance
is a correspondent asylum for boys ; but

* Neale, Hist, of the Puritans, voL i., p. 243 ;
Lysons, vol i., p. 383.

WANDSWORTH.

666

WANDSWORTH.

the establishments are quite distinct. The
large quaint-looking red brick Gothic
building, with great central clock-tower,
and overhanging watch towers at the
angles, seen above the railway cutting, is
the Freemasons' Female Orphan Asylum,,
erected, 1852, from the designs of Mr.
Philip Hardwick. In Spanish Road,
Wandsworth Common, is the Friendless
Boys' Home, a valuable refuge for boys
from 10 to 16 years of age, "who have
lost character, or are in danger of losing
it." It is said that of the lads who pass
through the school about 75 per cent.
are reclaimed. About 200 are now in
training. At East Hill is St. Peter's
Hospital, the Almshouse of the Fish
mongers' Company, a spacious, solid, and
comfortable lookmg range of buildings,
occupying 3 sides of a quadrangle, with
a chapel in the centre, erected 1849-51.
The Royal Hospital for Incurables, West
Hill, is noticed under Putney.
On the Common will also be observed
two enormous piles of buildings, the
Surrey Lunatic Asylum and the County
Prison. The former, erected in 1840,
from the designs of Mr. Wm. Moseley,
is a late Tudor structure, consisting of
centre and advanced wings, 535 ft. long,
and provides accommodation for 950 in
mates. The Surrey House of Correction,
an equally huge group of brick and stone
buildings, erected in 1851, makes pro
vision for 100*0 convicted criminals, with
all appliances for labour, instruction, and
sickness. The Union Workhouse, East
Hill, is another vast brick pile, affording
accommodation for 850 paupers, with a
large infirmary attached.
Garrett is a hamlet of Wandsworth,
about 2. m. S. on the road to Tooting.
United with Summer's Town, it was made
an eccl. dist. in 1846. The name appears
to be derived from a mansion which some
3 cents, since was known as Tiie Garvetts,
and was the seat of the Brodrick family,
of whom there are many memorials in
Wandsworth ch. The place has little in
itself to attract attention ; but in the last
cent, it acquired notoriety as the scene of
a mock election, which appears to have
been always exceedingly popular with the
London mob, who flocked to it in prodi
gious crowds, and it obtained general cele
brity from Foote having dramatised the
incidents of the election in one of the most

popular of his comedies, ' The Mayor of
Garrett,' produced at Drury Lane in 1764.
Various attempts have been made to ex
plain the origin of the election, but none
worth repeating. All that is really known
is that the custom had grown up, on the
occurrence of a general election, to elect
a Mayor of Garrett, who in course of
time came also to be constituted Knight
and M.P. The candidates were usually
conspicuous by some personal deformity
or peculiarity, and a fluent tongue. The
electors were the mob, the electoral oath
being administered on a brickbat. There
were processions from town of the candi
dates, a hustiags and speeches, charing of
the elected, tumult and debauchery. " The
publicans at Wandsworth, Tooting, Bat-
tersea, Clapham, and Vauxhall [the line
of the procession] , made a purse," writes
Sir Richard Phillips, " to give it charac
ter. " Its character was at best a bad one.
But it is easy to see why the publicans
upheld it.
" None but those who have seen a London mob
on any great holiday can form a just idea of these
elections. On several occasions a hundred thousand
persons, half of them in carts, in hackney coaches,
and on horse and ass-back, covered the various
roads from London, and choked up all the ap
proaches to the place of election. At the two last
elections, I was told, that the road within a mile
of WandBworth was so blocked up by vehicles,
that none could move backward or forward during
many hours ;. and that the candidates dressed
like chimney-sweepers on May-day, or in the
mock fashion of the period, were brought to the
hustings in the carriages of peers, drawn by six
horses, the owners themselves condescending to
become their drivers."*
If peers escorted and drove the candi
dates, Foote, Garrick, and Wilkes, accord
ing to the same chronicler, wrote some of
their addresses. Becoming at length in
sufferable, the election was suppressed in
1796. An attempt was made to resusci
tate it in 1826, but the authorities inter
vened, and the election for Garrett belongs
as much to the past as an election for
Gatton or Old Sarum. The proposed elec
tion of 1826 induced Hone to visit Garrett
and collect whatever traditional informa
tion yet lingered there. He gave the
result in his ' Every -day Book,' (vol. ii.,
col. 819 — 866) accompanied with much
additional matter, engravings of the last
two mayors, Sir Henry Dimsdale, M.P.
* Sir Richard Phillips, A Morning's Walk to
Kew, 1817, p. 81.

WANSTEAD.

667

WANSTEAD.

and muffin-seller, and Sir Jeffry Dunstan,
M.P. and itinerant dealer in old wigs,
and some characteristic "reminiscences
of Sir Jeffry Dunstan," contributed by
Charles Lamb.
Dr. John Jebb, Bp, of Limerick, died at
West Hill in 1833. Mulberry Cottage,
Wandsworth Common, was the residence
of Francis Grose, the antiquary.
WANSTEAD, Essex, Ues on the
rt. of the Chigwell road, between it and
the river Roding, about 3 m. beyond
Stratford, and 6 m. from Whitechapel ch.
by road; J m. S.E. of the Snaresbrook
Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. (Ongar line). Pop.
5119, but this includes the hamlet of
Snaresbrook, and 647 persons in the
Infant Orphan Asylum, 209 in the
Merchant Seamen's Orphanage, and 74
in Woodhouse Asylum. Inns, George;
Nightingale. The little rambling village is very
pleasantly situated towards the southern
extremity of Epping.Forest, only the long
level waste, known as Wanstead Flats,
lying beyond it. W. of it is Leytonstone,
N. Woodford.
The name (Dom. Waenstede) seems to
be derived, says Lysons, " from the Saxon
words wan and stede, signifying the white
place, or mansion." * This, however, is
very improbable, and more recent autho
rities prefer to suppose it a corruption of
Wodens stede, or place, — implying the
existence here of a mound, or other erec
tion, dedicated to the widespread worship
of Woden, f Wanstead appears to have
been a Roman station. In 1715, in digging
holes to plant an avenue in Wanstead
Park, the workmen came upon a Roman
pavement, which they traced about 20 ft.
from N. to S. and 16 ft from E. to W.
It was formed of small square coloured
tesserae, had in the centre a figure of a man
on horseback, and a border of scroll-work,
about 1 ft. wide. J At other times founda
tions of buildings, fragments of pottery,
silver and brass coins, etc., have been
found. The manor of Wanstead was given by

* Lysons, Environs, vol. i., p. 716.
t Kemble, Saxons in England, voL i., p. 312 ;
Taylor, Words and Places, p. 322.
t S. Letbieullier, Archaeologia, vol. i., p. 56 and
p. 73.

iElfric to the monks of Westminster, and
the grant was confirmed by the Confessor ;
but it shortly after passed, probably by
exchange, to the Bp. of London, under
whom it was held by Ralph FitzBrien
when the Dom. Survey was made. It
afterwards passed to the Hodings, Hunter-
combes, Tattersalls, and Hastings ; and in
the reign of Henry VIII. belonged to Sir
John Heron, by the attainder of whose
son, Sir Giles Heron, it was forfeited to
the Crown. Edward VI. granted it in
1549 to Robert Lord Rich, whose son sold
it in 1577 to Robert Dudley, Elizabeth's
Earl of Leicester. His widow, to whom
Wanstead was bequeathed, married Sir
Christopher Blount, and Wanstead was
conveyed to Charles Blount, Earl of
Devonshire. It was then alienated to
George Marquis of Buckingham, who
sold it, 1619, to Sir Henry Mildmay,
Master of the Jewel Office under James I.
Having escheated to the Crown in conse
quence of Sir. W. Mildmay's share in the
trial of Charles I., it was given by Charles II.
to his brother, James Duke of York, who
transferred it to Sir Robert Brookes. He
falling into difficulties, sold it in 1667 to
Sir Josiah Child, the great merchant and
banker, and governor and autocrat of the
East India Company, whose son Richard
was created Viscount Castlemaine in 1718,
and Earl Tylney in 1732. On the death
without issue of John Earl Tylney, in
1784, this manor, with other large estates,
devolved to Sir James Tylney Long, whose
daughter and heiress, Katherine, married
the Hon. Wm. Wellesley Pole, who as
sumed the name of Wm. Pole-Tylney-
Long-Welle&ley, and succeeded, 1845, to
the title of Earl of Mornington. The
manor is now the property of Earl
Cowley. The original manor-house, said to have
been called Naked Hall Hawe, was taken
down and rebuilt by Lord Chancellor
Rich, who made it his summer residence.
Queen Mary stayed in it some days be
tween her accession to the throne and her
coronation, and Elizabeth visited the
Chancellor here in July 1561. The Earl
of Leicester enlarged and improved the
house, and in May 1578 entertained Queen
Elizabeth for some days. For the occa
sion, Sir Philip Sidney wrote a dramatic
interlude, printed at the end of the
'Arcadia,' which was played before the

WANSTEAD.

668

WANSTEAD.

Queen in Wanstead Garden, and in which
the May-Ladie, jiiiftress of " this place
and this time," (does homage " to the
beautif ullest Ladwthese woods have ever
received," and craves her judgment be
tween her^twjxlovers. In the following
September, Elizabeth again visited the
Earl at Wanstead ; and almost immediately
after her departure, the 20th of September,
1578, Leicester was married at Wanstead
House to the widow of Walter Devereux,
Earl of Essex. From the inventory of
his property, taken at Leicester's death,
Wanstead House would not seem to have
been very splendidly furnished, the entire
furniture, stock, etc., being valued at only
£1119 6*. 6d. But the prices of the several
articles were hardly such as they would
be appraised at now. The pictures in
the gallery, including three portraits of
Henry VIII., and others of Queen Mary
and Queen Elizabeth, in all 43 in number,
were rated at £11 13s. id. — an average of
something under 5s. 6d. each 1 The Earl's
library — consisting of an old Bible; Foxe's
Acts and Monuments, old and torn ; seven
psalters, and a service-book — were valued
at 13s. 8d. The horses at Wanstead were
valued at £316. In June 1603 the Earl
of Mountjoy, on returning from Ireland
with Hugh O'Neil, Earl of Tyrone, lodged
at Wanstead for a season before they were
received at Court. James I. stayed here
in Sept. 1607, on his return from a western
progress. Of the old fabric there is a
view, on a small scale, in the background
of a portrait of Queen Elizabeth, by De
Heere, at Welbeck. A small print of it
was pubUshed in 1649 by Stent. Whilst
the residence of Sir Robert Brookes it was
visited by Pepys, who thus records his
impression of it :
" May Hth, 1665. — I took coach to Wanstead,
the house where Sir H. Mildmay died, and now
Sir Robert Brookes lives, having bought it of the
Duke of York, it being forfeited to him : a fine
seat, but an old-fashioned house, and, being not
full of people, looks flatly. " *
When Sir Josiah Child bought the
manor, and made Wanstead his residence,
he spent large sums in improving the
gardens, planting trees, laying out avenues,
and forming a lake and canals. In the
spring of 1683, Evelyn went to look at
his improvements :
* Pepys, Diary.

"16 March, 1683.— I went to see Sir Josiah
Child's prodigious cost in planting walnut trees
about his seate, and making fish-ponds, many
miles in circuit, in Epping Forest, in a barren
spot, as oftentimes these suddenly monied men for
the most part seate themselves. He, from a mer
chant's apprentice, and management of the East
India Company's stock, being arrived to an estate
ftis said) of £200,000; and lately married his
daughter to the eldest sou of the Duke of Beaufort,
late Maiques of Worcester, with £50,000 portional
present, and various expectations." *
The old house was taken down, and a
new one begun, about 1715, by the 1st
Earl Tylney, then Sir Richard Child.
Colin Campbell was the architect em
ployed, and Wanstead House, when com
pleted, though without the wings which
Campbell designed, was generally con
sidered the best of his works. Its sump-
tuousness greatly impressed contemporary
critics, who pronounced it "one of the
noblest houses, not only in England, but
in Europe." It was of Portland stone,
260 feet long and 70 deep. In the centre
was a stately portico of six Corinthian
columns, and a pediment with the Childs'
arms on the tympanum, the approach
being by a double flight of steps. The
Great Hall, 53 ft. by 45, had the ceiling
decorated with paintings of Morning,
Noon, Evening, and Night ; the walls
were hung with paintings, and antique
statues and statues of the Arts were
ranged on pedestals. The Dining Room
and the Drawing Room were each 27 ft.
square. The State Dining Room, 27 ft.
square, had the ceiling painted with tbe
Seasons ; the corresponding Drawing
Room, 30 ft. by 25, had on the ceiling the
story of Jupiter and Semele. The Great
Dining Room was 40 ft. by 27, and the
adjacent Drawing Room 27 ft. square.
A Saloon 30 ft. square was adorned with
sculpture. The Ball Room, 70 ft. by 27,
was fitted up in the utmost splendour of
the time. There were besides a Common
Dining Parlour, 40 ft. by 35 (making four
in all), and a Breakfast Room, 32 ft. by 25,
and no fewer than four large state bed
rooms, and many secondary chambers.f
All the rooms were hung with pictures,
and the furniture was of the richest de
scription. H Walpole is not hypercritical,

* Evelyn, Memoirs.
+ Campbell has given elevations, sections, and
ground plans of Wanstead House in the Vitruvius
Britannicus, vol. i., pi. 21 — 27.

WANSTEAD.

669

WANSTEAD.

much of it was, however, in questionable
taste : —
" I dined yesterday at Wanstead : many years
have passed since I saw it. The disposition of the
house and the prospect are better than I expeoted,
and very fine : the garden, whioh they teU you cost
as much as the house, that is, £100,000 (don't tell
Mr. Muntz) is wretched ; the furniture fine, but
totally without taste : such continenoies and incon
tinences of Scipio and Alexander, by I don't know
whom 1 such flame-coloured gods and goddesses
by Kent 1 such family-pieces, by — I believe the
gnat Earl himself, for they are as ugly as the
children that he really begot I The whole great
apartment is of oak, finely carved, unpainted, and
has a charming effect." *
A very different and perhaps fairer
critic wrote —
" Wanstead upon the whole is one of the noblest
houses in England. The magnificence of having
four state bedchambers, with complete apartments
to them, and the ball-room, are superior to any
thing of the kind in Houghton, Hoik am, Blenheim,
and Wilton. But each of these houses is superior
to this in other particulars ; and to form a complete
palace, something must be taken from all. In
respect of elegance of architecture, Wanstead is
second to Hoi kam But what a building would it
be, were the wings added according to the first
design."! Sir J. Tylney Long died in 1794, and
his only son, an infant, shortly after.
For many years, during the minority of
the heiress, Miss Tylney Long, Wanstead
was the residence of the Prince de Conde
(father of the unfortunate Due d'Enghien),
and the occasional residence of Louis
XVIII., and other exiled members of the
Bourbon family.
The competition for the hand of " the
rich heiress," as she was styled, was keen,
even royalty, it was said, taking part in it.
The prize was won by the least worthy.
The Hon. W. Pole Tylney-Long Wellesley
entered into possession, and by reckless
and profligate expenditure soon dissipated
the heiress's wealth, and encumbered the
estates ; and in June 1822 the contents of
Wanstead were sold by George Robins.
The auction lasted 32 days, and produced
£41,000. Finally, no one being found
willing to purchase it as it stood, the
house was pulled down, and the materials
sold piecemeal.
Now, not a vestige of the palace remains,
and of the ornaments of the grounds only
the dismantled grotto. The lake and
* Horace Walpole to Richard Bentley, July 17,
1755 ; Letters, vol. ii., p. 451.
t Arthur Young, Six Weeks' Tour in the South
of England, 1768.

canals are left, the heronry is still kept up,
some of the avenues remain, and a few old
trees are standing, but all available timber
was long ago converted into cash. At the
sale of the contents of the house, the
family portraits were reserved ; but later
(Feb. 8, 1861) these too were dispersed by
Christie and Manson, " in consequence,"
as the catalogue states, " of the non-pay
ment for expenses for warehousing room."
A more complete wreck was hardly ever
witnessed. The rich heiress died Sept.
1825 — three years after the sale of her
goods and destruction of her house.
Within the park stands Wanstead
Church(ol the Virgin Mary), built 1787-90,
at the cost of Sir James Tylney-Long in
place of the old parish ch., which was
small, inconvenient, and dilapidated. The
new ch., which was designed by Thomas
Hardwick, is of Portland stone, a plain
rectangular cube, with, at the W. end, a
tetrastyle Doric portico, and a small
cupola-crowned Ionic turret. Themterior
is in like manner coldly classic, as classic
architecture was then understood. But it
is well and even elegantly finished ; the
nave is separated from the aisles by
Corinthian columns, and the E. window
is filled with painted glass. The great
feature of the int. is however the sump
tuous mont. of Sir Josiah Child (d. 1699),
removed here from the old ch, A statue
of Sir Josiah, the size of life, is on a
pedestal, under a pediment. Beneath are
semi-recumbent statues of his son, Sir
Richard, and his wife. A mourning
female is seated on ,each side of the
pedestal ; boys, angels, and emblematic
figures are variously disposed ; and from
a canopy which is suspended over all,
depends a falling curtain.
Dr. James Pound, distinguished in his
day as a naturalist and astronomer, was
rector of Wanstead from 1707 till his death
in 1724. Pound wrote several papers which
were printed in the ' Philosophical Trans
actions,' but his most enduring claim to
remembrance is that he supplied Newton
with many observations, which are ac
knowledged in the ' Principia,' and taught
his more famous nephew, James Bradley,
how to observe. James Bradley resided for
some time with his uncle as his curate.
After his uncle's death he erected, 1727,
a zenith sector in the house of his aunt ;
with it made the observations which

WANSTEAD.

670

WANSTEAD.

confirmed those made by him at Kew,
and continuing his investigations here,
arrived at his great discovery of aberra
tion — one of the most important in the
history of astronomy. The house was
pulled down long ago, and the site is
forgotten. To Pound's house, or for his use, was
brought the famous May-pole of the
Strand. "The May-pole, commonly called the May-pole
in the Strand, above 100 feet in height, being
grown old and decayed, was April 1717, obtained
by Sir Isaac Newton, Knt., of the parish ; and
being taken down, was carried away through the
City in a carriage of timber, unto Wansted in
Essex. And by the leave of Sir Richard Child,
Bar. Lord Castlemain, granted to the Rev. Mr.
Pound, rector of that parish, was reared up and
placed in his park there ; the use whereof is for the
raising of a telescope the largest in the world,
given by a French gentleman [M. Hugonl to the
Royal Society : he being a . member thereof. It
had not long been set up there, but these witty
verses were fashioned upon it by an unknown
Hand. * Once I adorn'd the Strand,
But now have found
My way to Pound,
In Baron Newton's Land,' " etc.*
John Saltmarsh, a noted Puritan divine
and controversialist, lived at Wanstead,
and was buried inthe ch.-yard, 1647. The
famous citizen, Sir William Curtis, M.P.
(d. 1829), and Joseph Wilton, the sculptor
(d. 1803), were also buried here. Sir Wm.
Penn, Pepys's friend and colleague in the
Navy Office, and father of the founder of
Pennsylvania, was for some years a resi
dent, and at one time gave out that he
was about to buy Wanstead House of Sir
Robert Brookes ; but "I dare be hanged,"
wrote Pepys, " if ever he could mean to
buy that great house, that knows not how
to furnish one that is not the tenth part
so big."t
On the W. of Wanstead PaTk, divided
from it by the road to Snaresbrook, re
mains what looks like a wild bit of the
Forest, but having avenues across it, the
chief nearly a mile long — no doubt relics
of the old avenues of Sir Josiah Child's
planting. The larger avenue, known as
The Avenue, is a favourite resort of East-
* J. Styrpe, Stow's Survey of London, ed. 1720,
b. iv. , ch. 7, vol. ii., p. 104. From what is said in
another place (p. 112) there would seem to have
been only about 20 ft. of the May-pole left when
Sir Isaac Newton obtained leave to remove it.
t Pepys, Diary, April 14th, 1067.

end holiday-makers and school parties,
who come here during the summer months
in vans and other vehicles in prodigious
numbers, and amuse themselves with
swings, donkey and pony races, and a
variety of sports. Some of the trees are
large, but the best timber trees have been
felled. Obs. on the rt., on entering from
the park, a magnificent oak, partly hollow
and decaying, but the head still verdant,
and the whole picturesque. Between the
Avenue and the Park is Park Gate, the
pleasant seat and grounds of Alderman T.
Quested Finnis ; and Park House (Mrs.
Venables). A little S., within a bank-and-hedge
enclosure, stood Lake House, of old an
outlying banqueting hall belonging to
Wanstead House, now pulled down. Of
Lake House, Thomas Hood took a lease
in the spring of 1831, and made it his
residence till driven away, sorely against
his will, by increasing pecuniary diffi
culties, in 1835. Whilst here he wrote
' Tylney Hall,' the title, at least, suggested
by the story of Wanstead House, as many
of" the descriptions were by the scenery of
the neighbourhood.
The broad* level space S. of Wanstead
Park is Wanstead Flats — in the Ordnance
Map marked Epping Lower Forest, a
name unrecognized in the locality. About
400 acres in area, it was, only a few years
back, a bright breezy expanse of furze and
bramble, heath and fern, with a few trees,
mostly hornbeams, scattered irregularly
about it. But it has been much encroached
on and defaced. The trees have been
felled, farms laid out, brick-fields opened,
gravel dug, and it is now a mere waste,
rough and uninviting. From beyond
memory it has been a great resort of
gipsey s,* and the tribes who have adopted
gipsey habits and a wandering life, hawk
ing mats and brooms and the like, telling
fortunes to servant girls, picking up un
considered trifles, and dwelling in cara
vans, many of which may be seen at
almost any time about the edge of Wan
stead Flats.
On these flats, in 1806, George III. re
viewed a force of 10,000 men. The Duke
of Wellington is said to have strongly
recommended their being obtained as a
place on which to exercise large bodies of

* Borrow, Romano Lavo-Lil, p. 273, etc.

WARE.

671

WARE.

troops. His advice was at the time un
heeded, but in June 187-1 Wanstead Flats
were secured by the Government for miU
tary drill and exercise.
The village lies N. of Wanstead Park,
about the Green and Grove, and the lanes
running off towards Barking Side, Snares
brook, and Woodford. New houses have
been built wherever land could be ob
tained, some large and good, but the
greater part of moderate size, and many
small. The country, though much altered,
is still rural, sylvan, and in places almost
f orestal. On the N. side of the Green a
new church (Christ Church) was built in
1861, and enlarged and a new tower and
spire added in 1871. It is a very good
village ch., of stone with slated roofs. ;
early Dec. in style, with plate tracery to
the nave windows ; comprises nave with
wide aisles, chancel, tower at the N.W. ,
with octagonal stone spire, and S. porch.
The E. and W. windows are filled with
painted glass.
At Woodside is the Princess Louise
Home for Young Girls, for the reclama
tion and protection of young women, and
preparing them for service. There are
(May 1876) 92 girls in the home ; 1201
have been admitted since the opening, of
whom 915 have been sent to service, 176
restored to friends. At New Wanstead are
the Almshouses of the Weavers' Company,
a well-built, roomy, and comfortable pile.
The hamlet of Snaresbrook, with the
Infant Orphan Asylum, and the Merchant
Seamen's Orphan Asylum, is noticed under
that heading.
WAEE, Herts, a market town,
on the left bank of the river Lea, 2 m.
N.E. of Hertford, 21 m. from London by
road, 24 m. by the Ware and Hertford
branch of the Grt. E. Rly. Pop. of the
town 4917 ; of the par. (including 202
in the Union Workhouse) 5403. Inns :
Railway Tavern ; Saracen's Head ;
French Horn; White Lion.
The town consists now, as a century
and a half ago, of " one fair street in
length, with divers back streets and lanes,
full of houses and famous for inns" —
famous, that is, for number, for Ware inns
are anything but famous for goodness.
The High Street runs E. and W. by the
river, two broad streets run from it north
ward, and at the E. end the main street

turns sharply, and crosses the Lea by a
wide iron bridge erected in 1845. The fine
old ch. stands in an open space on the rt.
of the High Street, near the centre of the
town, of which it is the chief ornament.
The old houses are few, but there are two
or three with timber frame-work, carved :
as the Bull's Head Inn, opposite the lane
to Ware Park. Ware has a Town Hall
and a Corn Exchange, a branch bank, and
the like, but none of its buildings besides
the ch. are of architectural value. The
malt-houses form the most conspicuous
feature, both of the town and its suburbs.
Ware is the largest malting town in
England. The malt-tax collected in it
amounts to a quarter of a million annu
ally. There are also several breweries;
large corn mills ; brick-fields ; the timber
trade is considerable, and the corn market,
held on Tuesday, is one of the largest in
the county. The Corn Exchange, Church
Street, is a substantial building, erected
in 1867 ; behind it is the Cattle Market.
Over the bridge, Ware has a southern
suburb, of which Amwell End may be
considered a part. (See Amwell.)
In 896 the Danes towed their ships up
the Lea, constructed a fortress on that
river 20 miles above London, and there
wintered. In the summer the Londoners,
with such help as they could obtain, at
tacked them in their encampment, but
were repulsed, compelled to retreat, and
four of the king's thanes were slain.
Alfred now placed his army so as to enable
the Londoners to secure their harvest un
molested, made a careful survey of the
Lea river, and ascertained where the
watercourse might be so dealt with that
the Danes would be unable to bring out
their ships. There he accordingly con
structed fortifications on the opposite
banks, and set his men to work. The
Danes, when they found that they could
not float their ships down the river, aban
doned them, broke up their camp, and
marched across the country towards
Cambridge. The locality of the Danish camp is
uncertain ; but it is believed to be some
where between Ware and Hertford. Nor
does the Saxon Chronicle state clearly
the nature of the operation by which
Alfred rendered it impracticable for the
Danes to take their ships down the river.
It is supposed that he effected his purpose

WARE.

672

WARE.

by making several new cuts about Walt
ham Abbey and lower down the stream,
and thus diverting the water from the
natural channel. The notion that he made
a weir for the purpose of obstructing the
navigation seems hardly feasible, and
least of all that Ware was " the place
at which Alfred constructed his weir
across the river Lea in order to cut off
the retreat of the Danes." * If the DaneB
were encamped on the Lea only 20 miles
from London, they must have been at the
farthest at Hertford, and they would
hardly have allowed Alfred to build his
two fortresses within sight of their camp,
and carry out his works, whatever they
were, unopposed. It is indeed clear from
the Chronicle that the works took the
Danes by surprise, and could not there
fore have been carried on in their imme
diate vicinity. From Camden downwards
it has however been usual to ascribe the
name of the town (Waras in Dom.) to a
weir (A.-S. war) constructed across the
Lea at the Danish inroad, but the more
common opinion is that the weir was
made by the Danes to form a secure haven
for their ships during the winter.
" Some say this town was built, An. 914,
by order of King Edward, the son of King
Alfred," f but the burh built by him is
expressly stated to have been at Hertford,
and " on the S. of the Lea," whereas Ware
is on the N. of that river. (See Hert
ford, p. 338.) At the Dom. Survey Ware
was a small place of about 130 inhabit
ants. There were a village reeve and a
priest, and probably therefore a church,
38 villans, 27 bordarii, 12 cottars, and
9 bondmen ; also 2 Frenchmen and 3
Englishmen, with 32 serfs, villans, and
bordarii under them. There were 2
mills, the rent of which was four-and-
twenty shillings and 400 eels save 25.
The other vassals had 3 mills paying ten
shilUngs of rent yearly. Meadows ; pan
nage for 400 hogs ; a park of wild animals
(parcus bestiorum silvaticarum), and 4
arpents of vineyard newly planted — per
haps by the Frenchmen. The whole value
was £45 ; when received £50 : the same
as in King Edward's time.
At this time the manor belonged to
Hugh de Grentemaisnil, and it was held

* Taylor, Words and Places, p. 304.
t Chauncy, Hertfordshire, vol. i., p. 394,

by his descendants till towards the end of
the 12th cent., when a heiress, Petronill,
carried it by marriage to Robert Blanch-
maines, Earl of Leicester. It afterwards
passed to Saier De Quincy, Earl of Win
chester, who " by his great power" broke
down the iron chain which locked up the
passage over the bridge, and succeeded., in
freeing the town from the toll paid to *Bhe
corporation of Hertford, by all who passed
over the bridge or through the town ; and
" by this means, the great road was turned
from Hertford through this town, where
inns and houses have been since erected
by degrees, for the receipt of travellers ;
so that from a small vill., it is now become
a great and populous town." * In 1264
Robert De Quincy obtained of Henry III.
a grant for a market and fair. In 1262
the manor passed by marriage to Baldwin
Wake ; in the reign of Edward III., to Sir
Thomas Holland, afterwards Earl of Kent,
in whose family it remained notwith
standing the execution and attainder of
his heir, Thomas Duke of Surrey, in 1400,
till carried by a heiress, 1409, to Thomas
de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury. It after
wards passed to the King-maker Earl of
Warwick ; then to Richard Duke of Glou
cester, afterwards King ; and upon his
death at Bosworth was settled by Henry
VII. upon his mother, the Countess of
Richmond. On her death it was granted
to the Lady Margaret Pole, Countess of
Salisbury, mother of the Cardinal, and
upon her execution reverted to the Crown.
Queen Mary, on her accession, restored
the manor to Katherine Countess of
Huntingdon, granddaughter of the Coun
tess of Salisbury, who about 1570 sold it
to Thomas Fanshawe, remembrancer in
the Exchequer, an office held by five suc
cessive generations of the family, from
Elizabeth to Anne. The manor was sold
about 1700 to Sir Thomas Byde, a brewer
of London, in whose family it remained
till 1846, when it was alienated to James
Cudden. In 1853 it was purchased by
Daniel De Castro, and in 1869 by George
Rastrick, Esq. f
The manor-house stands on the W. side
of Ware Park, about 1 m. W. of Ware.
The house, a spacious and comfortable
but commonplace mansion, was built by
* Chauncy, vol. i., p. 397.
t Chauncy ; Cluttarbuck ; Cussans.

WARE.

673

WARE.

Sir Thomas Byde, on the site of the ancient
seat of the Fanshawes. Happily, Sir
Thomas, while pulling down the house,
spared the ancestral trees, many of which
are now of magnificent proportions. The
avenue, above half a mile long, through
which there is a public way from Ware to
Bengeo, is particularly fine. One noble
oak in it measures nearly 20 ft. in girth
at 4 ft. from the ground, and has a grand
head and immense roots spreading far
above-ground. This avenue, and the
great oaks and elms which so happily
adorn the park, are said to have been
planted by Sir Henry Fanshawe, who,
according to his friend Sir Henry Wotton,
was an incomparable gardener.
" Though other countries have more benefit of
sun than we, and thereby more properly tyed to
contemplate this delight [a garden] ; yet have I
seen in our own, a delicate and diligent curiosity,
surely without parallel among foreign nations :
namely, in the Garden of Sir Henry Fanshawe, at
his seat in Ware Park ; where, I well remember,
he did so precisely examine the tinctures and
seasons of his flowers, that in their settings, the
inwardest of which that were to come up at the
same time, should be always a little darker than
the utmost, and so serve them for a kind of gentle
shadow, like a piece, not of Nature, but of Art :
which mention (incident to this place) I have
willingly made of his name, for the dear friendship
that was long between us. " *
The visitor to Ware should not fail to
visit Ware Park : it lies immediately W.
of the town. High and undulating, sloping
on the W. steeply to the Lea, it affords
capital views of the valley of the Lea, the
towns of Ware and Hertford, and the
country beyond. Ware Park is now the
seat of John Gwyn- Jeffreys, Esq., LL. D. ,
D.L. The other manors need not detain us.
But the manor-house of Blakesware — " a
fair seat " old Chauncy terms it, " about
three miles distant from the town on the
east," the seat of the Featherstones,
Leventhorpes, Clutterbucks, and Plumers,
has won a lasting place in our literature.
It is the Blakesmoor Hall of Charles
Lamb's delightful essay, ' Blakesmoor in
H  shire.' Of the fine old mansion,
which stood directly opposite the road
from the neighbouring viUage of Widf ord,
not a vestige is left. It was pulled down
in 1822 by Mrs. Plumer, then lady of the

* Sir H. Wotton, Elements of Architecture,
Reliquiae Wottonianse, 4th ed., 1685, p. 64.

manor. Close by it stood the cottage in
which dwelt Lamb's Rosamund Gray.
This too has been swept away.
A priory was founded on the W. side of
the town, beyond the ch., according to
Chauncy, " about the 18th year of the
reign of King Henry III, by Margaret,
Countess of Leicester," but it was more
probably of earlier foundation, and en
riched and enlarged by her. It was for
friars of the order of St. Francis, who held
it till the Dissolution. The estate was
given by Henry VIII. to Thomas Byrch ;
has since frequently changed hands ; and
now belongs to Clement Morgan, Esq.,
who purchased it in 1868. Only a few
fragments of the conventual buildings
remain. The mansion built on the site
is known as The Priory.
Ware Church (St. Mary) is a large and
handsome cruciform building of flint and
stone, with a lofty embattled tower of 5
floors and short thin spire. The body of
the ch. is Dec, the chancel and tower are
Perp. In the tower is a peal of 8 bells.
The interior is roomy and striking. It
has a, wide nave of 5 bays, with a good
open timber roof. The chancel arch is
large and well moulded, and a lofty arch
opens into the tower and displays the W.
window. In the large E. window is a
representation of the Crucifixion. A Lady
Chapel on the S. is divided from the
chancel by an arch with a slender central
clustered column of polished Purbeck
marble, and from the S. transept by a
screen of carved oak. The large window
in this transept is Tecent, and foreign in
character to the rest of the building. The
ch. was restored throughout, the interior
thoroughly, a. few years back, when the
mouldings and tracery were for the most
part rechiselled, and much new work
inserted. Obs. the font, of the reign of
Henry IV., and good. It is octagonal,
and has on the panels figures in high
relief of the Virgin, St. Gabriel, St. John
the Baptist, St. Christopher carrying the
Saviour, St. George, St. Margaret, St.
Catherine, and St. Thomas. In the Lady
Chapel are a piscina, sedilia, and ambreys.
When the ch. was restored, many of the
monts. were removed and lost, or set up
in other places. The only one left of any
interest is a mural marble mont. removed
from the Lady Chapel— of old the manor
chapel of Ware Park— to the S. transept, 43

WARE.

674

WARE.

of Sir Richard Fanshawe, d. at Madrid,
1666, translator of Guarini's Pastor Fido,
the Luciad of Camoens, etc., ambassador
from Charles II. to the Courts of Portugal
and Spain, and husband of Anne Lady
Fanshawe, authoress of the ' Memoirs of
the Fanshawe Family,' which throw so
attractive a light on the last years of
Charles I. There are other monts. to
Fanshawes, Dickinsons, etc. An altar
tomb in the N. transept had some good
brasses, which were stolen several years
ago by the parish clerk. Several of the
brasses on the floors were lost at the re
storation of the ch., but two or three are
left. The most curious is that in the S.
transept to Wm. Pyrry, d. 1470, and his
wives Agnes and Alice, by each of whom
he had 5 sons and 5 daughters. Elen,
wife of Wm. Warbulton, 1454 ; and a
female without name of somewhat late
date. In the ch.-yard, S. of the ch., is the
tomb of Dr. William Mead, d. 1652,
'- aged 148 years, 9 months, 3 weeks, and
4 days ; " but the inscription is only of
about the year 1850, and the age, enough
to startle Mr. Thorns from his propriety,
is probably due to the mason employed
to recut the insc, which had become
illegible.* — or to his employer.
Christ Church, in the New Road, is a
handsome building of Kentish rag and
Bath stone, E.E. in style, erected in 1858,
at the cost of Robert Hanbury, Esq., of
Poles, from the designs of Mr. W. E.
Stevens. It has nave, aisles, porches, and
a tower and spire at the S.E.
There are the usual chapels, all common
place as buildings. It was as minister of
the Independent Chapel, Ware, that Wil
liam Godwin, the author of ' Political
Justice,' and ' Caleb Williams,' com
menced his unconformable career. Among
the natives must be placed William of
Ware, the teacher of Duns Scotus, since,
as Fuller has it, he was "born in that
thoroughfare town," though nothing is
said of any later connection with it.
Roman remains have been found at dif
ferent times on the N.W. of the town, and
in the lower ground by the Lea. They
include weapons, a brass steelyard, coins
of Severus, etc Some stone coffins have

* J. E. Cussans, Hist, of Hertfordshire,fol. 1870,
p. 151.

also been found in what was probably
a cemetery of the priory.
The most noted of the local antiquities,
though now lost to the town, is the
Great Bed of Ware, already famous in
Shakspeare's time :
" Sir Toby Belch. — Go write it in a martial hand ;
be curst and brief ; it is no matter how witty, so it
be eloquent and full of invention .... and
as many lies as will lie in thy sheet of paper,
although the sheet were big enough for the Bed of
Ware in England, set 'em down."*
Allusions to the " Bed of Ware " are not
unfrequent in our literature. Chauncy -f
noticing the " large bed which is twelve
foot square," observes that " the strange
ness of this unusual size oftentimes invited
the curious traveller to view the same,"
and he adds a not very decent story of
six citizens and their wives who came
from London in a frolic, which probably
Byron had in his memory when he wrote
that " All (except Mahometans) forbear
To make the nuptial couch a Bed of Ware."X
The great bed, or rather bedstead, is said
to have belonged to Ware Park, but of
this there is no evidence. It was kept
at the Crown until that inn was taken
down in 1765, when it was transferred to
the Bull. It was afterwards removed to
the Saracen's Head, where it was placed
in a large room on the second floor, with
other old furniture. Later the require
ments of the inn led the landlord to
divide the room into two, and the great
bed was shortened some 3 ft. to adapt it
to the lessened room. The bedstead is of
very dark oak : the end posts have massive
pedestals about 2 ft. high, on which rest
4 thin pillars bearing arches, above which
are circular posts about 4 ft. high, very
elaborately carved. The canopy and
head-board are also elaborately carved,
the latter having panels separated by
human figures, and decorated withheraldic
and symbolic devices, roses interlaced and
coloured, and renaissance ornaments.
The total height is about 12 ft. In its
last years at the Saracen's Head, it looked
sadly dilapidated, and bore marks of
having been much hacked and damaged
by visitors. On it was painted the date
* Twelfth Night, Act iii., sc. 2.
t Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire, vol. i., p. 414.
t Don Juan, Canto vi., 12.

WARE.

675

WARLEY, GREAT.

1463, but this was palpably modern.
From the style of the carving it appeared
to be of the reign of Elizabeth. It was
put up for sale by auction in 1862, but
the purchase was not completed, and it
remained at the Saracen's Head till 1869,
when it was bought by the proprietor of
the Rye House, where it is now shown in
a room prepared for its reception. (See
Rye House, p. 518.)*
In a meadow S. of the Lea, on the rt.
of the road to Hertford, | m. from Ware
bridge, is Cliadswell, the head spring of
the New River. The site of the principal
spring is marked by a stone erected by the
New River Company, an insc. on which
states that it was opened in 1608, and that
the water is conveyed a distance of 40 miles.
From the spring the water flows into a
circular basin, and thence into a channel,
which, having been swelled by some cuts
from the Lea, and by large additions from
the Amwell springs (see Amwell), runs
for several miles parallel to the Lea. The
vale of the Lea, from Ware nearly to
Tottenham, is the scene of the ' Complete
Angler,' the neighbourhood of Ware,
Ware Park, and Amwell being particularly
favoured by Walton; but the disciple of
honest Izaak who makes a pilgrimage
along the meadows he describes so lovingly,
must not look to find them so " chequered
with water-liUes and lady-smocks," or in
any way so inviting as they were when
Piscator and his scholar rambled and
gossiped along them.
Ware Side is a hamlet about 2 m. N.E. of
Ware, and an eccl. dist. of 738 inh., formed
in 1844, with the addition of a small
portion of Thundridge par. It is a quiet
little place, with a small semi-Norman
ch. (Holy Trinity) erected in 1841, and
an old Grammar School, which has been
resuscitated of late years, and is now in a
tolerably flourishing state.
Wade's Mill, 2 m. N. of Ware, gave rise
to a local proverb, " Ware and Wades
Mill are worth all London," which, says
Thomas Fuller, " is, I assure you, a master
piece of the vulgar wits in this county,
wherewith they endeavour to amuse
travellers, as if Ware, a thoroughfare
market, and Wade's Mill (part of a village
* The bedstead is engraved in Clutterhuck's
Hist, of Hertfordshire, vol. iii. ; Shaw's Ancient
Furniture ; and Knight's Pictorial Shakspeare,
Notes to Twelfth Night.

lying 2 m. N. thereof) were so prodi
giously rich as to countervail the wealth
of London. The fallacy lieth in the
homonymy of Ware, here not taken for
that town so named, but for all vendible
commodities." *
WARLEY, GREAT,— West
WARLEY, or WARLEY ABBESS, ESSEX,
3 m. S. of the Brentwood Stat, of the Grt.
E. Rly. (Colchester line), on the road to
Grays. Pop. 1416, but of these 1004 were
in the eccl. dist. of Great Warley Christ
Church, the northern portion of the parish.
Inn, Headlcy Arms.
The names Great and West Warley were
given to distinguish it from the adjacent
par. of Little Warley, which lies immedi
ately E. of it. It was called Warley
Abbess, from the manor having belonged
to the Abbess of Barking down to the Dis
solution. It is a pleasant undulating
country famed for farming and hunting.
Wheat and barley, beans and peas, are
largely grown ; there are still consider
able woodlands, but that part of Warley
Common which belongs to this par. is
enclosed and cultivated. The inhabitants
are widely scattered, the houses extend
ing from the old ch. northwards nearly to
Brentwood station, Warley Street being
about midway. There are many good
seats, especially towards the Brentwood
end. Great Warley Church (St. Mary the
Virgin) stands in a treeless ch.-yard, far
away from the village, its only neighbour
a farm-house. It is modern, the nave red
brick, the chancel, the newest portion,
yellow brick with stone dressings. But
in 1860 the building was rendered more
ecclesiastical by the insertion of French
Dec. windows, the addition of an open
belfry and short tiled spire to the tower,
and the transformation of the interior by
various alterations, the substitution of
open seats for pews, laying down a pave
ment of encaustic tiles, and placing painted
glass in the E. window. On the N. of the
chancel is a mural mont. with bust.
Christ Church, erected 1854, to supply
the eccl. dist. formed in 1855 from the
northern part of the par., with the addi
tion of small portions of South Weald and
Shenfield parishes, is a neat brick and
* Worthies : Hertfoidshire.

WARLEY, LITTLE.

676

WARLINGHAM.

stone building, E.E. in style, with a tall
battlemented tower.
The Manor House stood close by the ch.,
but has been long taken down. Warley
Place (Anthony G. Robinson, Esq.) is a
good old red-brick embattled mansion
modernized. It stands within pleasant
grounds a little N. of Warley Street, and
2 m. from the old ch. Other good seats
are — Coombe Lodge (Edward Ind, Esq.) ;
The Lea (E. M. Daldy, Esq.); Brookland
House (Col. Legge) ; Goldings (W. T.
Graves, Esq.) ; Warley House (Rev. J. F.
H. English, LL.D.)
WARLEY, LITTLE, Essex, lies
immediately E. of Great Warley, from
'which it is divided by the stream that
rises in the northern part of the parish,
.flows through Bulphan Fen and Stifford,
and falls into the Thames at Purfleet.
-Pop. 1367, but this includes 1196 in
*Warley Barracks, leaving only 171 civiUan
inhabitants. Inn, the Greyhound.
Warley stands on high ground, and from
various parts there are extensive prospects;
that from Warley Gap is particularly fine.
There is no village proper. Like that of
Great Warley, Little Warley church stands
apart, its only neighbour a farm-house,
.but it has the advantage in being sur-
(rounded by fine old elms. The Church
(St. Peter) is chiefly of brick, the nave of
red brick, the chancel more recent, yeUow
.stock, with a plain lancet triplet. At the
W. end is a tall square brick tower, bear
ing the date 1778. The interior is very
¦rplain ; but there are two monts. in the
chancel worth noticing. On the S. is a
good marble recumbent effigy of a lady.
On the N. the recessed tomb of Sir Denner
Strutt and wife, with their effigies in
.alabaster, the costume temp. Charles I.,
very carefully made out. This mont. has
been twice restored of late years by the
'.descendants of the knight, and lost some
thing of its antiquarian value in the
process. At Warley Common, 2 m. N.W. from
Little Warley ch., and nearer Brent
wood, camps of militia, volunteers, and
regulars were formed on a large scale
during the wars with France and when
the country was stirred by threats of
invasion, George III. and Queen Charlotte
visited Warley Camp and reviewed the
troops, Oct. 20, 1778, on which occasion

their Majesties were guests of Lord Petre
at Thorndon HaU, 2 m. E. (See Hohndon,
West.) There are two fine views of
Warley Camp and Common, painted by De ¦
Loutherbourg, in the Corridor of Windsor
Castle : one of them was exhibited at the
Royal Academy in 1780. Dr. Johnson
spent a week at the camp, the guest of his
friend Bennet Langton, who was stationed
there as captain in the Lincolnshire
Militia. Johnson slept ih a tent lent hini
by an officer, attended a cdurt-martial,
and "notwithstanding a great degree of ill-
health," took great pains to make himself
acquainted with military topics and the
occupations and accommodation of the
men. " It was in the summer of the year 1778 that he
complied with my invitation to come down to the
camp at Warley, and he staid with me about a
week  He sate, with a patient degree of
attention, to observe the proceedings of a regi
mental court-martial, that happened: to be called
in the time of his stay with us ; and one night, as
late as eleven o'clock, he accompanied the major of
the regiment in going what are styled the rounds,
where he might observe the forms of visiting the
guards, for the seeing that they and their sentries
are ready in their duty on their several posts.
.... On one occasion, when the regiment were
going through their exercise, he went quite close
to the men at One of the extremities of it, and
watched all their practices attentively." *
On the S. side of the Common are the
extensive Warley Barracks. They were
originally erected by the East India
Company as a depot for recruits ; pur
chased by the Government in 1842 for
£17,000for a dep6t for the Royal Artillery,
and are now an establishment for the
Infantry, with accommodation for 1500
men. To fit them for their present pur
pose they have been much altered and
added to, the sanitary arrangements
improved, and a roomy and handsome
chapel, Byzantine in style, erected from
the designs of Mr. M. D. Wyatt.
^ WARLINGHAM, Surrey, 5 m.
S.E. of Croydon, on the road to Titsey
and Limpsfield, and a stat. on the Cater-
ham branch of the S.-E. Rly. Pop. 773.
Warlingham Stat, is in the Caterham
Valley, 1± m. from the vill., by a pleasant
uphill walk. To reach the vill., pass
under the bridge of the abandoned Surrey
and Sussex Rly., and take the steep path
* Langton in Boswell's Johnson, vol. vii., p. 224,

WARLINGHAM.

677

WATFORD;

up the hill-side, through the copse and by
the large farm-house, E. by N. ; or the
lane, hardly less steep, a little farther on
the Caterham road, where is the outer
lodge to Marden Park, but turning sharp
to the 1.
A few humble cottages gathered about
a broad Green, two or three sleepy shops,
a smithy, a Methodist chapel, and a
couple of little inns, the Leather Bottle,
and the White Lion — the latter also a
general shop — with a farm-house or two,
and a dismanted windmill, constitute the
village. The church stands apart in a
lonely-looking field, J m. N.
WarUngham was a settlement of the
Saxon Wearlingas.* The church and
manor belonged in the 12th cent, to the
monks of Bermondsey, and was held by
them until the suppression of monasteries.
They were granted by Henry VIII. in
1545 to Sii- John Gresham. In 1591,
Richard Gresham sold Warlingham, with
Sanderstead, to John Ownstead ; who,
dying without issue- in 1600, bequeathed
his Surrey estates to his cousin, Harman
Attwood, and his two sisters. Their shares
were purchased by Mr. Attwood, from
whom the whole descended, Uke Sander
stead, to the present lord of the manor,
Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq. (See San
derstead, p. 545.)
The Church (All Saints) is small ; con
sisting of a nave and chancel, of* flint
and stone, roug;hcast, with a wooden bell-
turret at the W. end. The frame of the
fabric is E.E., and several lancets remain ;
but a late Dec. E. window, and several of
Perp. character- in the nave, have been
inserted. The ch. was partially restored
and the W. doorway renewed in 1866.
There are no monts. W. of the ch. is a
very fine yew, and on the S. one still
larger, but decaying.
The wide heath, redolent of purple
Ung and golden gorse, known as Warling
ham Common, which formed the chief
charm of WarUngham, one of the loveliest
spots round London, was enclosed in
1864-5, and is now cultivated, of the 300
acres 5 acres being reserved as a " recrea
tion ground." But though the Common
is lost, there is still a fine open country,
the air is invigorating, and the neighbour
hood healthy and picturesque. WarUngham
* Kemble, Saxons in England.

is one of the " five places on the hills."
(See Chelsham.)
Godstone Road, in Caterham Valley, a
little collection of modern dwellings, two
or three-shops, and the Wliite Leaf tavern,
is a detached portion of Warlingham
parish.
WATFORD, Herts, a market -
town on the Aylesbury road, 15 m. from
London, and a stat. on the L. and N.-W.
Rly.,17f m. Branch rlys. diverge from
the main line at Watford to St. Albans, 7
m., and to Rickmansworth, 4 m. Pop. of
the town (Local Board dist., including
200 in Bushey par.) 7461 ; of the parish,
which has an area of 10,792 acres, 12,071,
but of these 2374 were in pubUc institu
tions. Inns : Clarendon Hotel, by Rly.
stat., a first-class house ; Essex Arms
Hotel, by the market-place ; Rose and
Crown, George, etc., High Street.
Watford Manor belonged to the Abbey
of St. Albans down to the Dissolution.
Retained by the Crown till 1609, it was
then granted by James I. to Thomas Lord
Ellesmere, Lord Chancellor of England.
From him it descended to the Earls of
Bridgewater, in whom it remained until
purchased in 1767 by William, 4th Earl
of Essex, the lord of Cassiobury. The
present lord' of .the manors of Watford
and Cassiobury is Arthur Algernon Capel,
6th Earl of Essex. The history of
Cassiobury manor is told under that
heading. The other manors are of no
general interest.
Watford town stands on moderately
high ground, being built on a ridge of
gravel overlying the chalk, above the rt.
bank of the river Cofn^. The Colne
crosses the lower part of the town, di
viding it from Bushey — -now a kind of
southern suburb of Watford. The town
runs up from the river northwards, in a
single main street, for about 1-J m. to
Nascott, beyond the entrance gates to
Cassiobury Park. The passages which
diverge on either hand are little else than
courts and byways. The High Street is
broad in the upper part, lined with good
houses and shops, and clean throughout ;
but the byways and back passages are
poor and squaUd, though much has been
done for their improvement of late years
by the Local Board of Health, and some
new thoroughfares have let in a little

WATFORD.

678

WATFORD.

useful ventilation. The market-place is
near the centre of the town on the W.,
and by it is the church. The L. and
N.-W. Rly. Stat, is outside the town, at
its north-eastern extremity. For the
southern part ot Watford the Bushey
Stat, is most used. The Rickmansworth
line has a station near the centre of the
High Street.
The Market Place is the nucleus of the
town; but neither the Market House,
nor any of the buildings about it, except
the church, possesses any claims on the
attention of the antiquary or student of
architecture. The newer buildings in
clude a Post Office ; a County Court and
Sessions House, King Street; a PubUc
Library and School of Science and Art,
a showy Gothic building with a good
lecture hall, erected 1874, in the Queen's
Road ; an Agricultural Hall ; a Masonic
Hall, at the back of the Essex Arms ;
and a Branch Bank. The town has also
a Literary Institute, an active Natural-
history Society, and supports a weekly
newspaper. The local trade is large, and
there are corn-mills, paper-mills, a silk-
mill, large breweries, maltings, iron and
engineering works, etc. Within the last
few years many good villa residences have
been built about Nascot, and around the
rly. stat. a new and rapidly extending
district has grown up.
The Church (St. Mary) is a spacious
and handsome building, comprising nave
with broad aisles, chapels (the St. Kathe
rine Chapel on the N. , the Essex on the
S.), chancel, a lofty tower at the W. end,
with buttresses and battlements, and two
porches. It is of the Perp. period, but
was thoroughly restored in 1870-71, under
the direction of Mr. Christopher of Wat
ford , when the S. aisle, and St. Katherine
chapel and porches, were taken down and
rebuilt, the exterior refaced with flints
and Bath-stone, new windows inserted
nearly throughout, those left of the old
ones being repaired and rechiselled, — the
whole, indeed, (except the Essex chapel)
being made " as good as new." The in
terior restoration was also complete ; and
a new reredos, pulpit, font, and organ
were erected. For the antiquary the chief
interest consists now in the Monts., and
especially those in the Essex or Mor
rison chapel, erected at the cost of Bridget
Countess of Bedford, in 1595, and happily

undisturbed by the restorer. Strictly a
monumental chapel, stately tombs with
marble effigies line the walls and occupy
the floors, and present a striking — to the
casual visitor, it must be owned, some
what tantaUzing— aspect. For though
the panelling of the screens which shut
off the chapel from the chancel and aisles
is glazed, and through it the monts. may
be seen, the chapel can only be entered
by special permission : the door is locked,
and the key kept at Cassiobury.
In the centre of the chapel is an altar
tomb of coloured marbles, with recumbent
effigy in countess's robes and coronet,
between two knights in complete armour,
of Lady Bridget, Countess Dowager of
Bedford, the founder of the chapel, d.
1600, " in great favour with her Prince,
and generally reputed one of the noblest
matrons of England, for her wisdom and
judgment." A long insc. sets forth in
full her great virtues and family con
nections. Her first husband was Sir
Richard Morrison; her second, Edward
Manners, Earl of Rutland; and Francis
Russell, Earl of Bedford, her third. Be
yond this is another altar tomb, with 6
marble Tuscan columns, supporting a re
cumbent effigy of the Rt. Hon. Lady,
Dame Elizabeth Russell, wife of Sir Wil
liam Russell, Lord Russell of Thornaugh,
d. 164-.
Against the S. side of the chapel is a
lofty architectural mont., in which, be
neath a canopy supported on tall Corin
thian columns, is the semi-recumbent
effigy in armour of Sir Charles Morrison
the elder, d. 1619. Angels with trumpets,
shields of arms, and other enrichments
adorn the mont., whilst on a pedestal
outside the tomb, at the knight's head, is
a life-sized kneeUng effigy of his son, and
at his feet a corresponding figure of his
daughter, Bridget Countess of Sussex.
This elaborate mont. was the work of old
Nicholas Stone, whose pocket-book, so
happily saved by Vertue, teUs what he
was paid for it : —
"1619. — A bargain madewith Sir Charles Morison
of Cashioberry, in Hartfordshire, for a tomb of
alabaster and touchstone onely. One pictor of
white marble for his father, and his own, and
his sister the Countess of Sesex, as great as the
life of alabaster, for the which I had well payed
£260, and 4 pieces given me to drink." *
* Walpole, Anecdotes, vol. ii., p. 43.

WATFORD.

679

WATFORD.

Opposite to this, against the N. wall,
is a mont. , equally large and elaborate,
to Sir Charles Morrison the younger,
with his effigy in armour, leaning on his
right elbow, his hand on a skuU ; be
neath him the effigy of his lady ; at his
feet his two sons kneeUng ; at his head,
his daughter. This was also executed by
Nicholas Stone, who covenanted that it
should be a " faire and straightly tomb or
monument," to be made of " white marble,
touchstone and allabaster, and containe
in the whole 14 foote in breadth and
16 foote in height from the ground."
The " statue or picture " of Sir Charles is
" to be royally and artificially carved,
poUshed, glazed, and made of good and
pure white marble in complete armour,"
etc., " according to the Ufe, to consist of
6 foote in length of one entire stone."
The statue of the worthy lady his wife is
also to be royally carved, etc., and to be
6 feet in length ; the statues of the
daughters are " to be i foote in height,
kneeUng ; the sons to be, the eldest 3
foote in height kneeling," the youngest 2
feet. For this and completing the work
he is to receive £400.* Also on the N.
wall, mont. " To the Memory of the ver
tuous Lady Katherine Rotheram, late
wife to Sir John Rotheram ; first espoused
to Sir John Hampson,Knt. and Alderman
of London," d. 1625, with her effigy in
short cloak and surcingle, kneeling on a
cushion, under a canopy borne on 4 marble
columns. At W. end, square brass, with
effigies in cloaks of Henry Dixon, d. 1610,
George Miller, d. 1613, and Anthony
Cooper, "late servants to Sir Charles
Morryson, Knt., and after retayned in
service with Dorothy, Lady Morryson,
his wife, and Sir Charles Morryson, Knt.
and Bart. , their son, by the space of 40
years, in Memory of them the said Dorothy
Lady Morryson hath vouchsafed this stone
and inscription over their heads." There
are also tablets to Admiral John Forbes,
d. 1796, and Lady Mary Forbes, d. 1782.
In the St. Katherine Chapel are brasses
to Hugo de Holes, quondam justiciaris,
d. 1415, large but injured, and one to his
wife Margaretta, d. 1416, insc. lost. Here
and in the chancel are monts. to the

* Covenant in possession of the Earl of Essex,
printed by Clutterbuck, Hist, and Ant. of Hertf.,
vol. L. p. 262.

Heydons, Attewclls, Roberts, Carpenters.
Whites, and other persons of local conse
quence, but none that we have observed
of wider interest.
In the ch.-yard, on the family altar
tomb, is an insc. to Robert Clutterbuck,
author of the ' History and Antiquities of
the County of Hertford,' who d. 1831, in
his 59th year. By the ch. are almshouses
for 8 poor women, founded by Francis
RusseU, 2nd Earl of Bedford in 1580.
A cemetery, with neat little mortuary
chapels, has been constructed at Colney
Butts, S.W. of the town, and here were
laid, July 2, 1870, the remains of George,
4th Earl of Clarendon, the distinguished
Foreign Minister.
St. Andrew's District Church, New
Watford, the district by the rly. stat., is
a neat E.E. ch. of flint and stone, with
tower on the N.E., erected from the
designs of Mr. Teulon in 1857, and en
larged by the addition of a S. aisle in
1865. A little W. of the ch. stands the
Almshouses of the Salters' Company, a
Bpacious and attractive group of buildings,
erected in 1864, for 6 men and 12 women.
They are of red brick and stone, Domestic
Gothic in style, and comprise a centre,
with bold bay window, projecting but
detached wings,' and an embattled tower.
The houses are set well back from the
road ; the space in front forms a garden
of 2 acres, prettily laid out in lawns and
flower-beds, and each house has its own
little garden.
The very striking group of buildings
close to the rly. stat. is the London Orphan
Asylum. Founded in 1813 by Dr. Andrew
Reed, it has grown gradually to be the
great institution we see. From 1813 the
children were kept in a building at Clap
ton, until it was decided to remove them
to the present healthier site. The first
stone of the new buildings was laid by
the Prince and Princess of Wales, July
13, 1869 ; the asylum was partially in
augurated in 1871, and the seventh house
for boys formally opened by the Duke
and Duchess of Edinburgh, May 20, 1875.
When the eighth house is completed there
will be accommodation for 600 children,
400 boys and 200 girls: there are now
550 in the aslylum. The buildings form
a series of partially connected blocks,
¦with a central dining hall and adminis
tration offices, chapel, infirmary, and taU

WATFORD.

680

WEALD, SOUTH.

clock tower, and occupy an area of about
15 acres. They are Domestic Gothic in
style, of Suffolk brick picked out with
red bricks and stone, and form an effective
and well-distributed group. The archi
tect was Mr. H. Dawson. Each house
provides for 50 children. The cost of
one for boys (£3000) was defrayed by
the Grocers' Company ; and the natives
of Hertfordshire subscribed a similar sum,
'¦ as a welcome to the county," to build
another. The very elegant Chapel was
built, at a cost of about £5000, by a lady
who was brought up in the asylum, and
afterwards served as its head mistress.
Leavesden is a hamlet of Watford, from
which it is about 3 m. N. on the road to
King's Langley; which is H m. farther.
Leavesden was made an eccl. dist. in 1853,
and has a neat E.E. ch. of flint and stone,
consecrated in 1852. On an elevated site
in Leavesden stands the Metropolitan Dis
trict Asylum for Imbeciles— a vast structure
cf stock brick, almost a counterpart to
that at Caterham. The wards are built in
detached blocks, but connected by corri
dors. The male and female wards are on
opposite sides of the ground, and between
them are the central administrative block,
chapel, infirmary, kitchens, workshops,
houses of officials, etc. There is no super
fluous ornament, but the buildings are far
from gloomy in aspect, and the sanitary
arrangements have been carefully studied,
and liberally provided. The buildings
occupy an area of about 18 acres, and 67
acres are under culture by the inmates.
The cost has been about £150,000. At
Woodside, Leavesden, is another large
pauper establishment — the Industrial
Schools for the parish of St. Pancras.
Oxhey is a hamlet on the Colne, 1 J m.
S. of Watford, quiet, rural, with corn-
mills and silk-mills varying the level
meadows. Oxhey Place, the seat of the
Heydon family in the reign of Elizabeth,
was taken down in 1668 by Sir Wm.
Bucknall, who built himself a new and
more commodious mansion on the site.
This was demolished in 1799 by the Hon.
Wm. Bucknall. Both the Bucknalls,
however, left standing the Jacobean
chapel built by Sir James Altham in
1612. This remains, and serves as a
chapel-of-ease to Watford. On the S.
wall of the chapel is the mont. of its
founder, Sir James Altham, d. 1616, with

his effigy in judge's robe, kneeling, be
tween pillars which support a canopy.
Behind him is the effigy of his lady.
Here also is the mont., with figure of a
mourning female leaning on an urn, of
John Askell Bucknall, d. 1796. The*
house stood a little W. of the chapel.
WEALD BASSETT, NORTH,
Essex, (Dom. Welda,) 3 m. N.E. from
Epping on the road to Ongar, and a stat.
on the Epping and Ongar branch of the.
Grt. E. Rly., 20 m. from London. Pop.
984. North Weald was so called to distin
guish it from South Weald, which lies.
some 8 m. to the S. The suffix, Bassett,
is derived from the noble family of that
name to whom the manor belonged in the
13th cent. By the marriage of Aliva,
daughter of Philip Bassett, with Hugh le
Despencer, it passed to that family, and
was forfeited to the Crown. Edward II.
granted it to his brother, Edmund Plan-
tagenet, Earl of Kent, to hold by the
yearly fine of a sparrowhawk. On his
decapitation, 1330, the manor was given
to Bartholomew Burghersh for life, but,
resumed and granted to John Plantagenet,
son of Edmund, and on his death to his.
sister Joan, the Fair Maid of Kent. It.
afterwards passed to the Montacutes ; to
Warwick the King-maker ; the Duke of
Clarence ; Margaret Pole, Countess of
Salisbury ; to the Rich family ; and since
through many hands. The present lord
of the manor is A. G. Puller, Esq.
North Weald is a rambling place with
a very scattered population. The pursuits.
are agricultural ; the village rural ; out
side it are green lanes, with abundant
hedgerow elms, and pleasant field-paths.
The Church (St. Andrew) is old, but
much altered ; commonplace, and uninte
resting. It comprises nave and S. aisle,
chancel, and brick tower and spire. In
the tower is a peal of 6 bells. The ch.
was repaired and a new roof added to the
nave in 1865. The interior had been re
seated some years before.
WEALD, SOUTH, Essex, about
2 m. W.N.W. from the Brentwood Stat, of
the Gt. E. Rly. Pop. 2994, but this in
cludes 767 in the Essex County Lunatic
Asylum.

WEALD, SOUTH.

681

WEALD, SOUTH.

On leaving the stat., turn 1., cross the
High St., Brentwood, take the road im
mediately opposite, and follow its wind
ings to the l.,for the most part up-hill,
but increasing in beauty the whole way,
till you reach the village. It stands on
a richly wooded height, picturesque in
itself, and commanding wide views across
a bright and fertile tract of country. The
vill. contains only a few dwellings ; but
the church, schools, almshouses, the hall,
and park, are all above the average merit,
and altogether a visit to South Weald
will well repay the drive or walk.
South Weald Church (St. Peter), with
rather a dilapidated air, was one of the
most interesting and picturesque churches
in this part of Essex, and has always been
a favourite with the county historians.
Unfortunately, when it was desired to
restore it a few years back it was found
that decay had gone too far, and there was
no help but to puU the old ch. down.
The new ch. is built on the old lines, but
on a securer foundation, the old architects
having contented themselves with little
more than levelUng the ground. The old
church comprised nave with N. aisle
wider than the nave, and chapel at the E.
end ; chancel ; a lofty stone tower at the
W. end, with a good angle turret ; and a
wooden porch on the S. The nave and
chancel were E.E. in style, with on the
S. double lancet windows, and a triplet
at the E. The N. aisle was Perp. The
new ch. differs considerablyin appearance
and arrangements. The old Perp. win
dows have been copied in the nave and
chancel ; the aisle windows have early
Dec. tracery. Both nave and aisle are
covered with new wooden roofs, but the
old columns and arches have been re-
erected. Most of the old monts. have
been relegated to the tower, but a few
have been replaced in the chancel and
chapel : none were of much interest. The
brasses (all imperfect) have been taken
away, (except the inscription of Sir
Anthony Brown's, d. 1567,) and the slabs
used for paving-stones, outside the ch.
The int. of the new ch. is handsome
and cheerful ; the exterior, of flint and
stone, more picturesque than new churches
usually are. The lower portion of the
noble old tower is retained, only the
uppermost storey being new. The small
and often engraved late Norman door

way, with characteristic shafts, chevron
mouldings, and reticulated pediment and
spandrels, has been re-erected in its
original place in the S. wall, and the
stones not rechiselled. A new S. porch,
and a lich-gate, both good examples of
modern carpentry, have been substituted
for the old ones. The new ch. was con
secrated Deo. 22, 1868: its archt. was
Mr. Teulon, from whose designs were also
erected the handsome Elizabethan alms
houses (1868) for 12 inmates, founded
and endowed by Sir Anthony Brown,
1558, and the school, 1860.
Immediately beyond the ch. is South
Weald Hall (C. J. Hume Tower, Esq.),
a spacious brick building, with stuccoed
and stone centre, comprising & attached
Ionic columns and a pediment, reaching
the whole height of the house. The
older part is of the 16th century, but
much of it is more recent. Of the int.
the chief feature is the great haU, which
was thoroughly restored and renovated
in 1869-70. Ia contains some interesting
pictures, including a Lioness and Cubs,
by Rubens ; the Port of Rhias, by Castro ;
portraits of Charles II. and James IL, and
others assigned to Raphael, Correggio,
Titian, Ruysdael, Wouvermans, and Van-
dyck ; a bust of Napoleon I. by Can ova ;
a fine coUection of china, and other articles
of taste : but they can only be seen by spe
cial perrnission. On an elevation between
the house and the church is a tower called
the Belvedere, which affords an extensive
prospect. The park is undulating, has
broad sheets of water, ragged old oaks
and tall elms, and is altogether un
usually picturesque. It used to be open,
but strangers are now restricted to the
public path across it from the village to
wards Coxtie Green. The manor belonged
to Waltham Abbey ; was transferred by
Henry VIII., in 1540, to Sir Brian Tuke ;
passed from him to Sir Richard Riche ;
next to Sir Anthony Brown (who founded
the almshouses here, and the Grammar
School at Brentwood) ; was sold in 1661
to Chief Justice Scroggs, who retired to
the hall after his removal from office, and
died there in 1683. His son sold the house
and manor to Alderman Erasmus Smith,
and in 1769 it was purchased by C.
Tower, Esq., in whose descendant it re
mains. Rotchetts, divided from South Weald

WELLING.

6S2

WEMBLEY.

by the lane leading to Bentley, is another
good house standing in a small but charm
ing park ; was the favourite residence of
Earl St. Vincents, who died there in 1823 :
and is now the seat of Octavius E. Coope,
Esq., M.P. How Hatch (Osgood Han-
bury, Esq.), at St. Vincents Hamlet,
N.W. of Rotchetts, is noteworthy for the
splendid elms in front of the house.
Other seats are Pilgrims' Hall (Sir
Fredk. Arrow), Pilgrims' Hatch, 2 m. N. ;
Oakhurst (Hon. Fredk. Petre); and
Ditchley's (ColUson Hall, Esq.) Great
Ropers (F. Hotham Hirst, Esq.), and
Boyles Court (J. F. Lescher, Esq.), on the
other side of the Brentwood road, are
the seats of sub-manors in this parish.
Brentwood itself is a manor of South
Weald. (See Brentwood.)
As the name impleis, South Weald was
a clearing in the great Forest of Essex,
and though the forest has long disap
peared there are still numerous trees, old
enough to have been at least sapUngs
when the land was disafforested. The
hamlet of Pilgrims' Hatch, 1 m. N. by E.
from South Weald ch. (following the park),
teUs of the hatch, or forest gate, through
which the pilgrims passed on their way
to the chapel of St. Thomas the Martyr at
Brentwood. The County Lunatic Asylum,
noticed under Brentwood, is in South
Weald parish.
WELLING, Kent, a hamlet by
the 10th mile-stone on the Dover, road,
at the eastern foot of Shooter's Hill, and
extending towards Bexley Heath. The
northern site of the viUage is in East
Wickham par. , the southern in Bexley.
The name had, according to the topo
graphers, a curious origin. It was called
Well-end, says Hasted, " from the safe
arrival of the traveller at it after having
escaped the danger of robbers through
the hazardous road from Shooter's Hill."
Rather perhaps from half the dangerous
way having been passed, as Bexley Heath
must have been nearly as hazardous as
Shooter's Hill. Really the name is shown
by the suffix ing to be an ordinary Saxon
patronymic. Welling consists of the usual roadside
habitations, a, few respectable shops, a
couple of good roadside inns, Guy Earl
of Warwick, and the Nag's Head — the
former the best, — a temporary church,

schools, etc. The extensive grounds seen
on the rt. in entering and passing out of
the viUage are a part of Danson Park.
The house, a stately semi-classic structure,
of Portland stone, regular in plan — a
centre with wings — and having some
handsome rooms, was built, about 1770,
for Sir John Boyd, Bart., from the designs
of Sir Robert Taylor. The park was laid
out about the same time by Capability
Brown. It is extensive, undulating,
richly timbered, and has a large sheet of
ornamental water.
WEMBLEY, Middx., a hamlet of
Harrow-upon-the-Hill, from which town
it is 2J m. S.E., and \ m. N.E. from the
Sudbury Stat, of the L. and N.-W: Ely.,
was created an eccl. dist. in 1846, and
had 1195 inhab. in 1871.
The farm manor of Wembley, or Wym-
bley, belonged to the Priory of Kilburn
down to the Dissolution, lt was granted
by Henry VIII. in 1543 to Andrewes and
Chamberlayne, who conveyed it the same
year to Richard Page, in whose de
scendants it continued till 1802, when it
was sold by another Richard Page to
John Gray, Esq. It is now the property
of the Rev. John Edw. Gray, whose seat,
Wembley Park, is the manor-house. The
park extends E. of the hamlet towards
Kingsbury, is large, varied in surface,
abundantly timbered, and watered by a
branch of the Brent. Other seats are
Wembley House (J. T. Woolley, Esq.);
Oakington Park (Col. the Hon. Wel
lington Talbot); Hill House (Thos.
Nicoll, Esq.)
Wembley Hill is celebrated for the
prospects from the summit, though the
distant country westward is cut off by
the heights of Harrow. The Green Man,
with its gardens, on the top of the hill,
is much frequented by holiday parties and
for trade dinners. The walks by the lanes
from Wembley Hill to Kingsbury, the
Hyde, and Hendon or Whitchurch, are
very pleasant.
The district church, St. John the
Baptist, by the Sudbury Rly. Stat., is a
good early Dec. building, with bell-cote
over the W. gable, and deep chancel,
erected in 1846, from the designs of Sir
Gilbert Scott, to supply the united districts
of Wembley, Sudbury, Appleton, and
Preston. About the ch. has grown up a

WENNINGTON.

683

WEST HAM.

little colony of villas and cottages, with a
cottage-hospital, a district school, a work
men's hall, and a young men's institute.
WENNINGTON, Essex, a village
on the road to Grays, midway (2 m.)
between the Rainham and Purfleet Stats.
of the Lond., Tilbury, and Southend Rly.,
and 14 m. from London by road. Pop.
199. Inn : Lennard Arms.
The village Ues along the low upland
which overlooks the marshes bordering
the Thames. Wennington Marsh runs
out 2 m. from the vill., forming what is
known as Great Coalharbour Point, directly
opposite Erith. The occupations are
agricultural, and there is a small india-
rubber factory. Large quantities of peas
are grown for the London market. There
are no resident gentry. Wennington Hall,
the old manor-house, on the Rainham side
of the viU., is now a farm-house.
The Church (St. Mary the Virgin and
St. Peter) is a venerable looking structure,
comprising nave and N. aisle, chancel,
and tall weather-beaten W. spire. The
staple of the fabric is E.E. , but it has been
much altered. The chancel is of transition
character ; a small door on the S. has the
circular arch and dog-tooth moulding.
The chancel arch and windows are E.E.
WEST DRAYTON, Middx. (see
Dratton, West).
WEST HAM, Essex, a village
lying to the E. of Stratford on the road
to Plaistow, and about f m. from the
Stratford Stat, of the Grt. E. Rly. The
parish of West Ham is of great extent,
stretching N. and S. from Wanstead and
Leyton to the Thames, and E. and W.
from East Ham to the river Lea. The
par. is divided into three wards, Church
Street, Stratford-Langthorne, and Plais
tow : the latter are treated under Plais
tow and Stratford ; the former, or
West Ham proper, remains to be noticed
here. The pop. of the par. was 62,919 in
1871 ; that or West Ham proper, 7928.
A century ago West Ham was a
favourite residence of merchants and
wealthy citizens, who in those days seem
to have had quite a Dutch taste for low,
moist, level districts. In the returns of
the King's surveyor of houses and win

dows, 1762, the number of houses in
West Ham par. was stated to be 700, of
which "456 are mansions and 245 cot
tages." Whatever definition be given to
mansions, this seems too liberal a propor
tion ; but five or six years later, Morant,
the historian of Essex, described West
Ham as " the residence of several con
siderable merchants, dealers, and indus
trious artists."* Now the wealthier mer
chants have their houses elsewhere, and
the old mansions have for the most part
been pulled down, divided, or diverted to
other uses. West Ham is not now an
attractive place. It has become the home
of manufactures which have been driven
from London and its immediate boundary,
and the buildings and their surroundings,
especially such as are to be found about
the marshes, the railway, and the many
branches of the Lea, are pleasing to none
of the senses. Chemical works, varnish
manufactories, match mills, candle fac
tories, manure works, cocoa-nut fibre
and leather-clothfactories, and distilleries,
are on a large scale.
West Ham had a market, procured in
1253 by Richard de Montfichet, but it
has not been kept for many years. An
annual fair of 4 days' continuance was
granted at the same time.
West Ham Church (All Saints) stands
in the midst of the village, in a sort of
broadway, two main streets running rt.
and 1. of the wide ch.-yard. It is a large
building, the basis ancient, but much of the
fabric modern, and as a whole a poor patch
work-looking pile. It comprises an early-
nave, to which a common builder's brick
aisle, with round -arched windows, has
been added on the S., the Perp. N. aisle re
maining of stone ; a modern chancel of
red brick, and a good old Perp. W. tower,
74 ft. high, in 3 stages, square, with
a tall angle turret, and battlemented.
The tower has a large W. window of good
Perp. details, and contains a peal of 10
bells. The interior of the ch. was renovated
in 1866, when above the arcade, which is
of the Dec period, was found a transition
Norman clerestorey. At the same time
was uncovered a curious painting, first
brought to light on scraping the walls in
1844, but after a brief exposure again
* Morant, Hist, of Essex, vol. i., p. 16.

WEST HAM.

684

WEST HAM.

covered with limewash and irretrievably
damaged. It is described as an oil paint
ing on rough plaster, but may have been
in distemper ; of the latter part of the
15th century, elaborately executed, but
without much artistic skill, and about 8
feet by 5 in size. It occupied the eastern
end of the N. clerestorey wall. The sub
ject was the Resurrection of the Right
eous, and comprised figures of a king,
a cardinal, bishops, priests, and a crowd
of souls of the saved, with angels lead
ing them to the gates of the Heavenly
Jerusalem. Angels playing musical in
struments and female figures filled the
angles, and above and behind were arches,
niches, tabernacle work, etc. On the outer
edge were falling fiends. The painting
was too much defaced to be made out
except from a scaffold, and it was not
considered desirable to save it, as the rest
of the plaster was being removed for point
ing. On the opposite wall — on the left
hand of the Judge, who, no doubt, was
represented on the eastern wall — was,
probably, a corresponding painting of the
Condemnation of the Wicked, but no
trace of it could be found.*
There are numerous monts., though few
of interest. Altar tomb for Robert Rook,
1485. N. wall of chancel, Sir Thomas
Foot, Knt. and Bart., Lord Mayor 1650,
d. 1688, set. 96, with effigy standing in
Lord Mayor's robes, wife in dress richly
ornamented with lace. James Cooper,
1743, life-size marble statue. In S. aisle
of chancel, William Fawcet, d. 1631, with
recumbent effigies of Fawcet and his
wife ; her second husband, Wm. Toppes-
field, who erected the mont., kneeling at
a faldstool. Showy marble mont. to Sir
James Smyth, sometime Lord Mayor of
London, d. 1706, and wife ; and Sir James
Smyth, Bart., d. 1717, and wife Mirabella.
On the floor are slabs to three Sir Robert
Smyths. In the ch.-yard — tombstone to James
Anderson, LL.D., editor of the Bee, and-
author of a great number of works on agri
cultural and industrial subjects. George
Edwards, F.R.S., eminent as a naturalist,
and the friend of Linnasus, a, native of
West Ham, born at Stratford 1693, d.
at Plaistow 1773. Dr. Samuel Jebb, a
* Trans, of Essex Archaeol. Soc. , vol. iv. , p. 47 ;
Archaeological Journal, vol xxiii., p. 63.

physician of eminence, and author of
several professional works, a Latin Life
of Mary Queen of Scots, and editor of
Aristotle and Bacon, Uved at Stratford ;
and in West Ham ch. was baptized, 1729,
his more famous son, Richard, made a
baronet by George III., and physician in
ordinary to the king. In leaving, obs. the
long covered way from the S. door of the
ch. to doorway in the clu-yard wall, a
relic of the days when West Ham was a
village of mansions, and the congregation
came in carriages.
A short distance from the ch. are alms
houses for 20 inmates, and in Gift Lane
are others for 6 poor persons. Mrs. Bon-
nell's Endowed School for Poor Girls,
was a well-meant charity, but has been
ill-administered. It has of late been
improved, and now educates about 100
girls. Other schools — primary, model, and
industrial — are numerous.
The pretty rural hamlet of Upton is a
little more than a mile N.E. of West
Ham ch., towards the Romford road,
along which extends Upton Place, the
northern end of the hamlet. Upton
Manor House is a good red -brick Jacobean
mansion, recently restored. More widely
known was Ham House and Park, lying
between Ham Lane and Upton Lane.
Ham House was for many years, and tiU
his death, the residence of Samuel Gurney,
and the centre of the great philanthropic
measures in which he and Mrs. Fry (who
lived in a house in Upton Lane close by)
were the prime movers. The house, which
was only interesting from its associations
and the many eminent persons, foreign as
well as native, who visited it during Mr.
Gurney's life, was taken down some few
years after his decease, and an offer was
made to purchase the park for building
on. Happily it was proposed to secure it
as a pubUc park for the crowded poor of
West Ham. Mr. John Gurney met the pro
posal by offering it at the sum the building
society had bid for it, £25,000 — towards
which the Gurney family would contribute
£10,000. Local efforts could only raise
£6000, when the Corporation of the City
of London generously voted the other
£10,000, and undertook to keep the park
in order. It was accordingly purchased,
vested in the Corporation, and formaUy
opened for public use by the Lord Mayor,
on the 20th of July, 1874.

WEST HAM.

685

WESTERHAM.

West Ham Park has an area of about
80 acres. The surface is nearly level, but
richly and variously timbered, it having
been famed in Mr. Gurney's time for its
ornamental trees, among which were
many rare American and AustraUan varie
ties, as well as for the ordinary park trees
and larger shrubs. The plantations on the
south-eastern side are particularly rich,
and many of the trees are old and large.
There are wide open lawns and meadows,
of which a portion is set apart for cricket
and play grounds ; broad terraces, and
ample gardens formed on the site of the
house and its immediate grounds, with
good old-fashioned shady walks — alto
gether a cheerful and pleasant place, and a
great boon to the inhabitants of West
Ham and Plaistow. West Ham Park is a
very short distance from the Plaistow Rly.
Stat. (See Plaistow.)
Near the Park is a country inn, the
Spotted Dog, with large grounds and
gardens, much resorted to by East-end
hoUday folk. In Upton Lane is an Ursu-
Une convent.
Forest Gate is a hamlet lying to the N.
of Upton and the Romford road, at the
edge of Wanstead Flats, the southern ex
tremity of Epping Forest, to which this
was the entrance (gate). Forest Gate,
with Upton and part of East Ham par.,
was made an eccl. district in 1852 : pop.
7127. At Forest Gate is a stat. on the
Grt. E. Rly. (main Colchester line). By
it is the Eagle and Child, tea-gardens and
hoUday resort. Emmanuel district ch. is
a neat Uttle Gothic building at the corner
ofJJpton Lane. In Wood-Grange Road is
the Pawnbrokers' Charitable Institute, a
cheerful group of 5 almshouses. Here is
the West Ham Cemetery. -Also, in Ceme
tery Road, the Jews' Cemetery, in which
is the stately mausoleum of the Rothschild
family, erected, 1867, from the designs of
Mr. Digby Wyatt.
The outlying districts, with their various
industries, which have grown up in West
Ham Marshes and towards the Thames,
are noticed under Plaistow. Those on
the other side, including West Ham
Abbey, are spoken of under Stratford.
The Northern Main Sewer of the Metro
politan Main Drainage system traverses
the parish, entering at the Lea on the
W. from Old Ford, passing along the
West Ham Marshes, as a grass-covered

embankment, crossing the main street of
Plaistow, and quitting the par. at East
Ham. Along here the drain is a brick
tunnel 10 ft. high. At the Abbey Mills is
the chief Pumping Station on the N. of
the Thames. By it the sewage of the
Low-level drain, which has flowed thus
far by gravitation, is lifted from the
pumping wells and forced through iron
cylinders 10 ft. 6 in. in diameter, into the
outfall sewer, which discharges itself by
gravitation into the receiving tanks at
Barking Creek. The works are of great
extent and capacity, and will repay exa
mination. There are six steam engines,
each of 112 nominal horse-power. The
pumps, 16 in number, are each 3 ft. 10^ in.
in diameter, with a stroke of 4 ft. 6 in. ;
and are together capable of lifting 15,000
cubic feet of sewage per minute. The
buildings, which are of an ornamental
character, occupy an area of 7 acres. The
two octagonal chimney-shafts, which form
a, conspicuous landmark for miles, are
each 209 ft. high and 8 ft. in diameter.
The interior of the building is kept scru
pulously clean, the machinery in admirable
order, and, considering the nature of the
operations, there is a surprising absence
of offensive odour.
WEST SHEEN, Surrey (see
Sheen, West).
WEST THURROCK, Essex (see
Thurrock, West).
WEST TILBURY, Essex (see
Tilbury, West).
WEST TWYFORD, Middx. (see
Twyford). WEST WK3KHAM, Kent (see
Wickham, West).
WESTERHAM, Kent, a small
market town on the road from Godstone
to Sevenoaks, 1£ m. W. of Brasted. The
nearest rly. stats, are Edenbridge (L. and
S.-E. Rly.), 4 m. S., and Sevenoaks (L., C,
and D., and L. and S.-E. lines), 5 m. E.
Pop. 2283, of whom 514 were in the eccl.
dist. of Crockham Hill. Inns : King's
Arms, a good house ; George and Dragon.

WESTERHAM.

686

WESTERHAM.

The little town is pleasantly situated in
Holmesdale, at the foot of the chalk downs,
near the source of the Darent, where
Kent and Surrey meet, and in the midst
of scenery which is charmingly charac
teristic of both counties. It is built on a
slope, the church crowning the height at
the eastern end. At the lower end are the
finely timbered grounds of Squerryes ; at
the upper those of Valence, or Park Hill.
A long straggling place, roomy for its
population, and the houses far from
crowded ; rural, quiet, perhaps a little
dull. More than once it has been dis
appointed in the expectation of having a
railway brought to it, but it has not lost
heart. Population has not materially in
creased, and no new source of prosperity
has been opened ; but the little town has
extended westward, built itself a new
PubUc Hall, improved the shops, esta
bUshed a Uterary institute, erected alms
houses and a cottage hospital, and con
tinues to hold its market every Wednesday
at the King's Arms Hotel. Outside the
town, the pursuits are chiefly agricultural.
The growth of hops has been considerably
extended ; there are nurseries, breweries,
and maltings.
The Church (St. Mary) is large, com
prising a wide nave with aisles, chancel
and aisles, tall tower with short shingled
spire at the W. end, and porch on the S.
The building is in the main late Perp.,
but some portions have been rebuilt, the
interior restored, and open oak seats sub
stituted for the old pews. The E. window
of the S. aisle is late Dec. Obs. the piers
of the nave arcade, which are of Godstone
firestone. Several of the windows have
painted glass. In the E. wall of the S.
chancel are a piscina and ambrey. In
this chancel is a mural mont. with small
kneeling effigies, coloured, of Thomas
Potter, of Well Street, d. 1611, and wife.
On the E. wall are brasses, removed there
when the ch. was restored. Richard
Potter, 1563, who by his wives Elizabeth,
Ann, and Alice, had 20 children — of
whom 3 sons and 10 daughters were left
aUve at his decease ; the effigies of the
other 7 are engraven on the brass.
Richard Hayward, 1590, effigy in mer
chant's robe. Several other brasses were
in the ch., but they appear to have been
lost or removed. Over the S. entrance to
the ch. is a marble tablet raised by the

townsmen to General Wolfe, " born in
this parish, January 2nd, 1727, and died
in America, Sept. 19th, 1759, Conqueror
of Quebec.
" Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurelled head,
And bids the artist grace the soldier dead ;
We raise no sculptured trophy to thy name.
*****
With humble grief inscribe our artless stone,
And from thy matchless honours date our own."
Wolfe was buried, it will be remem
bered, at Greenwich (see p. 262). Quebec
House, a gabled house a little beyond the
ch., is usually pointed out as General
Wolfe's birthplace. But it is an error.
He was born in the Vicarage. The room
in which he was born was that with the
three-light window facing the ch.-yard,
now blocked. A short time after his
birth, his father took the house now caUed
Quebec House, and there the future hero
spent his early years. After Wolfe's death
it was rented as a school by some ladies,
who gave it its present name. The lines
on the tablet in Westerham ch. are
attributed to General Warde of Squerryes,
who erected another memorial to Wolfe
ia Squerryes Park.
Besides Wolfe, Westerham claims as
natives, Fryth, the colleague of Tyndale
and teacher of Cranmer ; and a divine of
somewhat different temperament, Benja
min Hoadly, Bp. of Winchester.
Squerryes (Lieut.-Col. G. Warde), S.E.
of Westerham, is a good 17th century
red-brick mansion, standing, amidst grand
ancestral trees, in a small but very beau
tiful park. It was in the grounds of
Squerryes that Wolfe received his com
mission ; here a column has been erected
to his memory, and in the house are his
portrait and various personal reUcs. The
Darent rises in Squerryes Park, not far
from the house.
Valence, at the other end of the town,
was in the last century noted as Hill
Park, the seat of the Cotton family. The
house is spacious and substantial, and
contains some good rooms. In the
grounds are noble cedars, firs, and pines ;
and the park is rich in oak and beech,
many of magnificent proportions, affords
from the higher parts very extensive
views, and is diversified by a stream
let, lakes, and cascades. Valence has
been for some years the seat of the Earl
of Norbury, but is at present unoccupied.

WEYBRIDGE.

687

WEYBRIDGE.

The rather pecuUar Gothic mansion,
the tall square tower of which is so con
spicuous an object in the town, is Duns-
dale, erected in 1863 for Joseph Kitchin,
Esq., by Prof. Kerr. The grounds are
laid out with great taste ; and on the
estate is a very complete model farm,
Chart's Edge (Mrs. .Stivatfield), a modern
Gothic villa on the hill-top, is noted for
its views. Other seats are Springfield,
(Major J. Board) ; Mariners (Mrs.
Whittaker). Crockham Hill, 2 m. S. of the town,
a hamlet and eccl. dist., should be visited
for the famous view over the Weald of
Kent, Surrey, and Sussex, obtained from
Crockham Gap. The way to it over
Westerham Common, or by Chart, is very
beautiful. Crockham church is a neat
little modern Gothic building of the year
1841. The beauty of the neighbourhood
has led to the erection of several good
residences. The principal seats are —
Lewin's (T. C. Donnie, Esq.); Cliart-
well (Rev. J. E. Campbell- Colquhoun) ;
Mapleton Lodge (Alderman Sir Benj. S.
PhilUps) ; Redland (G. M. Tracy, Esq.) ;
Crockham House (A. H. Shand, Esq.)
WEYBRIDGE, Surrey, the site
of a royal palace, and the burial-place of
Louis Philippe, King of the French, a
village lying between Oatlands Park and
the river Wey at its confluence with the
Thames, 2\ m. S.W. of Walton-upon-
Thames, and 3 m. S.E. of Chertsey. The
Wey bridge Stat, of the L. and S.-W.
Rly. is about a mile S. of the vill. Pop.
2604. Inns, Hand and Spear, by rly.
stat. ; Oatlands Park Hotel ; Mitre.
At the Dom. Survey Webrige was a
manor held by the Abbot of Chertsey :
its value was 20 shillings. It passed to
the Crown with the other property of the
abbey, was annexed by Henry VIII. to
the honour of Hampton Court, and was
thenceforth generally held, under leases
from the Crown, by the possessors of
Oatlands. An estate called Oatlands, in Wey-
bridge, was purchased of Humphrey
Ruggeley and wife in 1500 by John and
Bartholomew Rede and others. When
Henry VIII. was forming his chase of
Hampton he sought to obtain this estate,
which was then held by William Rede,
offering in exchange for it lands belonging

to the suppressed priory of Tandridge.
Whilst negotiations were in progress
Rede died, leaving his son John, a child,
his heir. The king took a short way to
remove the difficulty this made to his
obtaining the estate. He constituted
Sir Thomas (afterwards Lord) Cromwell
guardian of the boy, and he in that capacity
conveyed the estate to the king, Jan. 1538.
Oatlands was an old hunting ground of
the king. He was there in the autumn of
1514, and in the meadows was MlUng of
stags, "holden in for the purpose," one
after another aU the afternoon.* Henry
lost no time in commencing the erection
of a palace on his new estate. Almost
before he could have obtained legal
possession, his builders were at work.
Materials were found in the ruined monas
teries. Stone was brought from Chertsey
and Bisham ; marble for pavements from
Abingdon. The good red bricks which
formed the walls were made at Woking
(the accountants spell it Okyng, much
as the natives still pronounce it). For
the "hasty expedycion of the same,"
hard-hewers were kept at work in the
fore-court, and carpenters upon the chapel,
the lodging adjoining, the lodging over
the pastry, the king's lodging, the great
parlour, and elsewhere, by night as weU
as by day. Why the king was in so
great a hurry is not clear, but he seldom
loitered over a resolve ; and having re
solved to have a hunting lodge at Oat
lands he was probably impatient till he
possessed it.
The main building was completed in
two or three years ; but the decorations,
the furnishing of the house, and laying
out and planting the grounds, occupied
a longer time. For his orchards the king
found provision of apple tree.s, pear
trees, and cherry trees in the gardens
of Chertsey Abbey. The furniture was
of the most sumptuous kind. Velvet and
cloth of gold covered the chairs, the
walls were hung with the finest tapestries
of France and Flanders, and on the floors
were laid "carpets of Turque." It was
for his expected bride, Anne of Cleves,
that the new palace was in a special
manner designed and the fittings ordered.
But before the building was ready the
* Sir Philip Draycot, io Lodge's Illustrations of
Brit. Hist., vol. i., p. G.

WEYBRIDGE.

688

WEYBRIDGE.

bride had come, proved unacceptable,
been divorced, and a new one found.
And with a new wife Henry had sought
a new palace. He was now busy in the
preparation of the still costUer and more
superb Nonsuch, and Oatlands seems to
have been comparatively neglected. It
was consigned to the keeping of Sir
Anthony Brown, and it was the occasional
residence of the Princess Mary, but the
references to it are few during the last
years of Henry's reign.
The Palace of Oatlands appears, from
the drawings of it formerly in the pos
session of Mr. Gough,* and inthe Bodleian
at Oxford, to have been a structure of
great extent and complexity. The foun
dations are said to have been traced over
an area of 14 acres. The palace stood in
the meadow by the Thames, now known
as Oatlands Palace Gardens, on the western
side of the present Oatlands Park. It
was built of red brick, with stone quoins
and dressings, gables, bays, and orna
mental chimney shafts, somewhat after
the fashion of Hampton Court. From the
outer gate you entered the Fore Court,
on either side of which was a range
of low buildings, apparently stables.
Before you stretched the broad many-
gabled principal front, with a turreted
central gate-house, as at Hampton Court
or St. James's. Through this you passed
to an oblong Inner Court, or quadrangle,
lined with hall or chapel and state apart
ments. A taller gate-house occupied the
centre of the farther side, and led to a
numerous cluster of buildings arranged
within an irregular triangle, about several
small courts. In the centre of this triangle
was a lofty circular tower, having a pro
jecting upper storey with windows all
around, apparently for affording an outlook
over the surrounding country ; whilst
from the apex of the triangle projected
towards the river a range of buildings
which terminated in a tall stern rectan
gular castellated edifice, the meaning of
which is not very evident. Terraces,
flower gardens, orchards, fountains, fish
ponds, detached summer-houses, and
paddock, formed the pleasance around
the house, and beyond was the deer-park,
fenced about with a quickset hedge of
hawthorn. 
* Engraved in Manning and Bray's Surrey, and
in Nichols's Progresses of Queen Elizabeth, vol. iii.

Edward VI. kept court at Oatlands, in.
1548, with Somerset as Lord Protector.
On the 3rd of February, 1555, Philip and
Mary removedforafewdaysfrom Hampton
Court to Oatlands. " On the way Mary
received consolation from a poor man
who met her on crutches and was cured
of his lameness by looking on her."*
Henry VIII. had made a private way,
"with hanging gates," from Hampton
Court to Oatlands, probably the river
road past his manor of App's Court, and
it was no doubt along this PMUp and
Mary travelled.
Elizabeth was here often in the early
part of her reign, in the summer of 1599,
and again in 1602. She loved to hunt
the taU deer, and is said to have shot at
them with the cross-bow as they were,
driven past her stand in the paddock.
Near where we may suppose her stand
was placed are a couple of yew trees,
known as Queen Elizabeth's bow-shot —
but tradition knows nothing of the cross
bow. The trees stand 60 yards apart,
and mark the queen's shot when she
practised with the long-bow. Another
memorial of EUzabeth's hunting (or
watching the hunt) at Oatlands, may be
seen in the brass in Walton church of
John Selwyn, "keeper of her Majesty's
park of Otelande." (See Walton-upon-
Thames, p. 660.)
James I. was often at Oatlands; but
the house is more spoken of as the
favourite residence of his consort, Anne
of Denmark, who here entertained with
great ceremony the Venetian ambassador
Busano. She made many alterations in
the place, built a silkworm house — the
rearing of silkworms, it will be remem
bered, was a favourite project of the
king's, — and employed, as is believed,
Inigo Jones to erect the arched gateway,
which was standing till within the last
few years. Prince Henry "kept house"
at Oatlands in 1603.
Oatlands was settled by Charles I. on
his queen, Henrietta Maria, and here in
1640 their youngest son, Henry of Oat
lands, was born. When discord was
abroad, the queen on one occasion, whilst
the king was in Scotland, is said to have
armed her household and such friends as
she could hastily muster, and kept them
* Froude, History of England, vol. vi., p. 363.

WEYBRIDGE.

689

WEYBRIDGE.

watching through the night in the park,
ready to repel an attempt she suspected
was about to be made to carry off the
young princes by force. Charles was here
for the last time in August 1647, before
his removal to Hampton Court. After his
death Oatlands was dismantled and razed,
the deer sold, the trees serviceable for the
navy felled, and the land disparked.
On the Restoration, Oatlands was re
turned to the Queen Dowager. Some
detached buildings were converted into
a lodge. A lease for 40 years, if the
Queen should live so long, was granted in
1661 to Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans,
Henrietta's second husband. She died in
1669, and the lease was renewed to the
Earl for the remainder of the term at a
rental of 20s. He sold his interest in it
to Chief Justice Sir Edward Herbert, who
procured from James II. a leversionary
lease for 76 years from the expiry of the
existing lease. Herbert, involved in the
fatal measures of James II. , fled the
country on the King's fall, was attainted,
and his estates forfeited. But in 1696,
William III. granted Oatlands in fee-
simple to Herbert's elder brother, Arthur
Earl of Torrington, who bequeathed it to
Henry Fiennes CUnton, 7th Earl of Lin
coln. The fragment left of the palace
was not suitable for a residence, and the
Earl about 1725 began a new mansion on
higher ground and nearer the centre of
the park. His grandson, Henry CUnton,
Duke of Newcastle, enlarged the house,
remodelled the grounds, formed the great
lake, and constructed the grotto, long
one of the glories of the modern Oat
lands. Walpole visited Oatlands in the
latter years of the Duke of Newcastle's
ownership, and " was disappointed.*'
" Oatlands, that my memory had taken it into
its head was the centre of Paradise, is not half so
ElyBian as I used to think. The Grotto, a magni
ficent structure of shell-work, is a square, regular,
and which never happened to grotto before, liveB
up one pair of stairs, and yet only looks on a
basin of dirty water : in short, I am returned to
my own Thames with delight, and envy none of
the princes of the earth." *
The Grotto still remains, and, though
shorn of much of its splendour, is worth
visiting as an illustration of the taste of
the times and an example of misapplied

* Walpole to Countess of
Letters, vol. ix., p. 132.

Ossory, July 9, 1788 :

ingenuity. It was constructed for the
Duke of Newcastle by an Italian and
his two sons, who were occupied over 20
years upon it. In the early accounts it is
said to have cost £12,000 or £13,000, a
sum since magnified to £40,000. The
Grotto is a building of three or four
chambers on the ground floor, connected
by low dark passages, and a large room
above. The exterior is formed of tufa
curiously put together ; the rooms and
passages are a mosaic of minerals, mar
bles, spars of various kinds, and shells,
worked into a multitude of quaint devices
with infinite patience and skill. The
ceilings are of stalactites and satin spars.
In the bath-room is a copy of the Venus
de' Medici; painted glass obscures the
Ught. The upper room, reached by an
outer staircase, has an elaborate cupola
of artificial stalactites of satin-spar ; the
waUs a more complex repetition of the
mosaic of the lower chambers. In this
room George IV., when Prince of Wales,
gave a splendid supper to the Emperor of
Russia, the King of Prussia, and the
princes and generals in their train, on
their visit to England after the battle of
Waterloo. The chamber for the occasion
was lighted by cut-glass chandeUers ; the
chairs and sofas had satin cushions em
broidered by the Duchess of York. In
visiting the Grotto notice the many fine
specimens of minerals still left, especially
the various quartz crystals ; also the
ammonites and other fossil as well as
recent shells.
Oatlands was purchased by the Duke
of York, about 1790, for £45,000. The
house was in great part destroyed by fire,
June 6th, 1794, whilst the Duchess of
York was residing in it. A new mansion
was shortly after commenced on a grander
scale, avowedly from the designs of Hol
land, the architect of Drury Lane Theatre
(destroyed by fire in 1806), but John
Carter (more favourably known by his
etchings of Gothic buildings), who super
intended its erection, claimed to be also
its designer.* The house did little credit
to the taste of either architect. It was a
long, low, rambUng structure ; the style
a meagre variety of Strawberry Hill
Gothic, battlemented throughout. It had,
however, some noble rooms with ample

* Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. ii., p. 387.
44

WEYBRIDGE.

690

WEYBRIDGE.

bays. Of the residence of the Duke of
York here more than enough will be found
in Greville's Memoirs ; but it is best
remembered as the residence of the
Duchess of York, who lived here, much
alone, from 1790 to her death at Oatlands
in 1820, and endeared herself to all classes
in Weybridge. Amidst many peculiarities
of habit, she was never forgetful of her
poorer neighbours, to whom she was an
untiring benefactor, and by them her
memory, now little more than a tradition,
is stiU reverently cherished. Walpole
gives a lively account of one of her early
parties : —
" The Duchess of York gave a great entertain
ment at Oatlands on her Duke's birthday ; sent to
his tradesmen in town to come to it, and allowed
two guineas a piece to each for their carriage ;
gave them a dance, and opened the ball herself
with the Prince of Wales. A company of strollers
came to Weybridge to act in a barn : she was
solicited to go to it, and did out of charity, and
carried all her servants with her. Next day a
Methodist teacher came to preach a charity sermon
in the same theatre, and she consented to hear it
on the same motive ; but her servants desired to
be excused, on not understanding English. ' Oh,'
said the Duchess, ' but you went to the comedy,
which you understood less, and you shall go to the
sermon ; ' to which she gave handsomely, and for
them. I like this."*
A party nearly 20 years later, given on
occasion of her own birthday, May 1810,
Ulustrates even better her liveliness and
goodnature. The king and queen, with
the princes and princesses, arrived at
Oatlands by two o'clock ; the king wear-
ng the Windsor uniform, the queen and
princesses in plain white. The Duke and
Duchess of York were in waiting at the
bottom of the steps to receive their jUus-
trious guests, whom they conducted to
the grand saloon. The improvements in
the house were admired, the gardens
visited, and then a sumptuous banquet
was served on gilt plate. The king,
queen, and princesses departed about 8
o'clock ; the princes remained. The park
gates were set wide open, and the whole
population of Weybridge and " the neigh
bouring peasantry " streamed in. There
was no exclusion. Tables were laid in
all the lower rooms, piled with hot fowls,
veal and ham, beef and mutton. Strong
ale and porter took the place of the wines
that had flowed at the upper tables ; and
" Walpole to Hon. H. S. Conway, August 81,

as soon as the viands were despatched a
great bowl of punch was placed on each
table. Then all were summoned by music
to the Ubrary and a dance. The Duchess
led off the ball with Col. Upton in the
Labyrinth, and it afforded the royal
party no little amusement to watch the
embarrassment of the rustics when in
going down the dance they had to make
their bow to the heir-apparent. The
dance was kept up till 2 in the morn
ing, when the music ceased and all retired.
It is not surprising that the Duchess was
popular at Weybridge.
One passage of somewhat later date
will suffice to show the private life of the
Duke of York at Oatlands : —
"August ith, 1818. — I went to Oatlands on
Saturday. There was a very large party. ... We
played at whist till four in the morning. On
Sunday we amused ourselves with eating fruit in
the garden, and shooting at a mark with pistols,
and playing with the monkeys. I bathed in the
cold bath in the grotto, which is as clear as crystal,
and as cold as ice. Oatlands is the worst managed
establishment in England : there are a great many
servants and nobody waits on you ; a great num
ber of horses and none to ride or drive. — The
parties at Oatlands take place every Saturday,
and the guests go away on Monday morning.
These parties begin as soon as the Duchess leaves
London, and last till the October meetings. . . .
We dine at 8 and sit at table till 11. In about a
quarter of an hour after we leave the dining room
the Duke sits down to play at whist, and never
stirs from the table as long as anybody *will play
with him. He is equally well amused whether
the play is high or low, but the stake he prefers is
fives and ponies."* [£5 points and £25 on the
rubber.] The Duchess, says the Diarist, " dresses
and breakfasts at 3 o'clock, afterwards
walks out with all her dogs [of which
she has at least 40 of different kinds],
and seldom appears before dinner time, 'f
Fondness for animals was strongly de
veloped in the Duchess. She protected
the wild song birds, and would not aUow
a rook to be shot ; the cows and pigs on
the farm would run to her sure of a choice
morsel ; whilst for dogs her partiaUty was
excessive, and to her visitors annoying ;
but doubtless she found, as she says in one
of her shapeless rhyme's, their "frolic play
Enlivened oft the lonesome hours."
She did not neglect them even when dead.
Around the margin of a circular basin for
* Greville, Memoirs, 1874, vol. i., p. 4.
+ Ibid.

WEYBRIDGE.

691

WEYBRIDGE.

gold fish (now drained), she formed a
cemetery for her pets, burying each in
turn with care, strewing its grave with
flowers, and placing over it a little stone
with the animal's name, date of decease,
and, if its merit was remarkable, a tribute
in verse from her own pen.* Sixty or
seventy of these stones still fringe the
margin of the hollow ; and when the
Queen visited Oatlands in 1871, noticing
that the tombstones were out of order,
she, with her usual kindliness, gave orders
for their restoration. They now look
quite fresh, and four or five have been
added for dogs recently deceased.
An Act was passed in 1804, by which
the King was enabled to grant to the Duke
of York the inheritance in fee-simple of
Oatlands ; and on the enclosure of Walton
and Weybridge Commons in 1800, the
Duke had obtained an addition of 1000
acres to his estate, to whichhefurtheradded
by the purchase of several neighbour
ing properties. But he was too heavily
in debt to allow the property to be kept
together. Oatlands was sold to E. Hughes
Ball Hughes, Esq. (the Golden Ball) ; and
was for some years the residence of Lord
Francis Egerton, afterwards Earl of Elles
mere. About 1856 the estate was bought
by a company for the purpose of convert
ing the house into an hotel. A large
portion of the Duke of York's house was
taken down by Mr. Hughes ; the remain
ing portion was now remodelled; and
with large additions made by Mr. Wyatt,
was in 1858 opened as the Oatlands Park
Hotel. In appearance it is a stately Italian
mansion, contains handsome suites of
apartments, stands on a lofty terrace,
and commands splendid views along the
vaUey of the Thames from Kingston to
Windsor. Just below the terrace is the
great lake, Broadwater, very commonly
mistaken for a reach of the Thames. The
park has been much abridged, but is
* There is some doubt as to the authorship of
these verses. Macaulay who visited the graves
and "was disgusted by this exceeding folly," sup
posed them to be "the mature efforts of Monk
Lewis's genius," but was told by Lady Dufferin
that they were "the childish productions of herself
and her sister," Mrs. Norton. (Trevelyan, Life of
Lord Macaulay, vol. ii., p. 405.) The dates and
character of the epitaphs hardly allow the claim
to be admitted without qualification, and the ex
planation which foUows as to the number of the
graves is unnecessary and certainly inaccurate.

still extensive, and contains many noble
trees and abundant evergreen and other
shrubs. The severed portion of the park
has been divided, and built over with
first-class villas.
West of Oatlands, the Wey flowing
through the grounds, was another house
possessing a sort of historic celebrity.
Ham House, or Ham Farm as it was at
one time called, was built by the Duke of
Norfolk in the reign of Charles II.
" 28 Aug. 1678. — Upon Sir Robert Reading's im
portunity I went to visite the Duke of Norfolk at
his new palace at Weybridge, where he has laid
out in building neere £10,000, on a copyhold, and
in a miserable barren, sandy place, by the street
side ; never in my life had I seene such expense to
so small purpose. The roomes are wainscotted, and
some of them parquettedwith cedar, yew, cypresse,
&c. There are some good pictures, especially that
incomparable painting of Holbein's where the
Duke of Norfolk, Charles Brandon, and Henry VIIL
are daunting with the three ladies, with most
amorous countenances and sprightly motion ex-.
quisitely expressed. . . . My Lord leading me
about the house made no scruple of shewing me
all the hiding places for the Popish priests, and'
where they said masse, for he was no .bigotted
Papist."* After the Duke's death, Ham House
was sold to Catherine Sedley,- Countess of
Dorchester, the more witty than beautiful
mistress of James II. , who spent a good
deal of money in improving the house
and grounds. Her royal lover is said to
have been a frequent visitor ; and the
chapel which the Duke of Norfolk showed
Evelyn was pointed out as that in which
James used to have mass said when he
visited Ham ; the priests' hiding-places
(Bray called them cupboards) being, ac
cording to the local tradition, the barracks
in which he lodged his guards.-)* The
Countess married David Colly ear, 1st
Earl of Portmore, and the house remained
the family seat till the time of the last
Earl, when, owing to family quarrels, it
was deserted, suffered to go to ruin, and
left a prey to the villagers, who carried
off the furniture and used the house as
a quarry, tiU what remained of it was
finally taken down, seven or eight years
before the last Earl's death (1835). The
massive gateway, and some magnificent
cedars by the river, are the only vestige-*.
left of its ancient splendour. It was a
stately brick mansion, with a terrace
* Evelyn, Diary.
t Manning and Bray, Hist, of Surrey, vol. n.
p. 789.

WEYBRIDGE.

692

WEYBRIDGE.

which commanded fine views of the
Thames and Wey. The grounds E. of
the Wey formed the home park ; the
meadows on the other side, of about 350
acres, being kept as paddocks.
The viUage is quiet, respectable, seem
ingly somewhat overawed by the predomi
nance of the grand residences on every
side of it. The houses are a good deal
dispersed, but most thickly congregated
by the church and green. Trees abound ;
the roads sind lanes are pleasant, and there
are some charming reaches of level river
scenery along the meadows by the Wey.
The Common is an untiring resource.
Walton and St. George's Hill are within
an easy distance.
The column on the Green is of popular
and poetic fame. It was of old the cen
tral column of Seven Dials : —
" Where fam'd St. Giles's ancient limits spread,
An inrail'd Column rears its lofty head ;
Here to seven streets seven dials count the day
And from each other catch the circling ray." *
When the column was removed from
Seven Dials in 1773, it was taken to
Sayes Court, but never erected. It lay
neglected there, till, on the death of the
Duchess of York, the inhabitants of Wey
bridge conceived the design of commemo
rating her by a memorial, when some one
recollected the fallen pillar, and suggested
that it would exactly serve their purpose.
It was accordingly purchased ; a pedestal
with appropriate inscriptions erected on
the Green, and the column placed upon
it. But instead of the old dials, it was
crowned with a royal coronet, and " in-
railed" as of yore. The deposed stone
of the seven dials was utiUzed as a horse
block at a roadside inn ; but it has been
removed, and may now be seen on the
edge of the Green opposite the column.
It is sadly battered, however, and the
directions on its six (not seven) faces are
no longer legible. A large house on the
Green, now the boys' boarding school of
the Rev. Thos. Spyers, D.D., is known as
Holstein House, " from its having been
once inhabited by a duke or prince of
Holstein when sojourning in England."f
The Church (St. James) was erected on
the site of the semi-ruinous old ch. in
1848, and enlarged in 1864 (archt., Mr.
* Gav, Trivia,Bookii.,l, 73—76.
t Brayley, vol. ii., p. 398.

J. L. Pearson). It is early Dec. in style,
and consists of nave with aisles, and stone
porches, chancel, W. tower and spire 150
ft. high. It has a good peal of 8 beUs, the
gift of a lady. The interior is spacious,
roomy, and light : the peculiarity of effect
observed on entering arises from there
being a second, and narrower, S. aisle.
There are some monts. of interest pre
served from the old ch. Vice-Admiral
Sir Thomas Hopson, d. 1717, who forced
the boom that lay across the Bay of Vigo,
" whereby he made way for the whole
Confederate fleet, under the command of
Sir George Rooke, to enter, take, and
destroy all the enemy's ships of war and
galleys ; which was the last of 42 engage
ments he had been in, in some of which
he received many honourable wounds for
the service of his country." Memorial to
the sisters Katherine and Mary Horneck,
the Little Comedy and Jessamy Bride of
Oliver Goldsmith's ' Verses in Reply to
an Invitation to Dinner.' Katherine mar
ried Henry Wm., youngest son of Sir Wm.
Bunbury, Bart., and d. 1799. Mary (the
Jessamy Bride) married General Sir F.
E. Gwyn, and survived till 1840. She it
was who had the lid removed from the
poet's coffin, that she might secure a lock
of his hair, and who, "upwards of 40 years
later, was still talking of her favourite
Dr. Goldsmith, with recollection and affec
tion unabated by time."* It was with
the Miss Hornecks and their mother that
Goldsmith in 1769 made the excursion to
Paris, of which he wrote so characteristic
an account to Sir Joshua Reynolds.
On the S. wall of the tower (it occupied
a more honourable position in the old ch.,
but gratitude seldom outUves its genera
tion) is a marble mont., with kneeUng
portrait by Chantrey, life-size, and in
high relief, of Frederica Charlotte Ulrica
Katherine, Duchess of York, died at Oat
lands, August 6th, 1820. Tomb of David
Collyear, 1st Earl of Portmore, Com
mander of the army in Portugal, and
Governor of Gibraltar, d. Jan. 1730 ; and
of his wife, Catherine Sedley, Countess of
Dorchester (daughter of Sir Charles Sedley
and mistress of James IL), who died at
Bath, Oct. 1717, and was brought here for
interment. On the floor of the tower is
a brass of John Wylde, gent., d. 1598, and

* Forster, Life of Goldsmith.

WEYBRIDGE.

693

WHITTON.

his two wives, Audrey and Elizabeth, one
on the rt. with 5 children, the other on 1.
with 7 ; 3 shields of arms remain, a fourth
has gone. Another brass is to Thomas
Inwood, d. 1586 ; in long robe kneeUng,
with 3 wives and 5 children kneeUng
before him :
" In perfect fayth he lyved and dyed, of life sincere
and puir,
Whose godly fame and memory for ever will
endure."
In the old church were small brasses
with that favourite mediseval legend of
mortaUty the Three Deaths.
A new church, St. Michael and All
Angels, was built in the Prince's Road in
1874, from the designs of Mr. Butterfield.
It is of red brick, stern and deterrent
outside, but pleasanter within. The taU
spire seen a short distance from it belongs
to the Congregational Ch. , a good stone
structure erected in 1865, from the designs
of Mr. Tarring, and since enlarged.
Facing the Common, opposite a group
of fine old fir trees, is the Uttle Roman
Catholic Chapel of St. Charles Borromeo,
memorable as the mausoleum of the family
of Louis PhUippe. The chapel, a Greek
cross, with a cupola over the centre, and a
tower on one side, stands within the grounds
of Waterloo Cottage. It was erected in
1836 by Jas. Molyneux Taylor, Esq., who
constructed beneath it a vault for deceased
members of his family ; and in it he and
his family (now extinct) repose. On the
death of Louis PhiUppe at Claremont,
Aug. 26, 1850, this was selected as his
temporary resting-place. His tomb, an un
adorned but massive sarcophagus, stands
on a broad basement of two steps, partly
within an arched recess; and here his
remains are deposited " donee in patriam,
avitos inter cineres, Deo adjuvante, trans-
ferantur." By his side Ue the remains of
his queen, Marie Amelie. d. March 24,
1866 ; the Duchesse d'Orleans, d. May 13,
1858 ; the Duchesse de Nemours, and five
of his grandchildren. On the death of
the young Prince de Conde' in Australia,
May 24, 1866, his body was brought to
England, and a vault and tomb con
structed for its reception contiguous to
that of his grandfather ; and in it, Dec.
1869, the body of his mother, the Duchesse
d'Aumale. was laid beside that of her
beloved son. Pious hands continue to

adorn the vault with vases of fresh flowers,
and place upon the tombs wreaths of im
mortelles — among these being some placed
there by Queen Victoria, the Princess
Louise, and other members of our royal
family. *** Since the above was in type' the
royal remains have been removed to
France ; but we leave the account un
altered, thinking the reader may like to
have a description of the crypt as it was
while stiU the Orleans mausoleum. Ex
cept that of the Duchesse de Nemours, aU
the bodies were taken away, and reinterred
in the mausoleum of the Orleans family
at Dreux on the 9th of June, 1876.
WHETSTONE, Middx., a hamlet
of Friern Barnet, and a village on the
Great Northern Road, 2 m. S. of Barnet
and 1 m. W. of Totteridge. The Totteridge
and Whetstone Stat, on the High Barnet
br. ofthe Grt. N. Rly. is on the W. of Whet
stone village. The eccl. dist. of Whetstone,
formed in 1836 out of the parishes of
Finchley and Friern Barnet, had 2356
inh. in 1871.
The village straggles for a considerable
distance in disconnected rows and groups
of houses, sometimes on one side of the
highroad, sometimes on the other; the
houses, mostly small, some old-fashioned,
many poor ; with several roadside wag
goners' inns and pubUcs, a veterinary
forge, a little church, 2 or 3 chapels, a
school, and a police station. Away from
the road, and towards Totteridge, collec
tions of genteel villas, Oakleigh Park and
the Uke, have grown up within the last
few years, and there has been a large
increase of population. But the place
itself is quite devoid of interest. The
walks towards Totteridge on the one side,
and Southgate and Friern Barnet on the
other, are green and pleasant.
The Church (St. John), on the W. of the
road at the London end of the vill., is a
little chapel-Uke brick structure, with
pinnacles at the angles : a feeble attempt
at Gothic of the pre-Gothic era.
WHITCHURCH, Middx. (see
Stanmore Parva).
WHITTON, Middx., a hamlet
of Twickenham, created in 1862 an eccl.

WHITTON.

694

WHITTON.

dist. ; pop. 893 ; lies on the edge of
Hounslow Heath, about midway between
Hounslow and Twickenham, 10 m. from
Hyde Park Corner by road, and \ m. S.
of the Hounslow and Whitton Stat, of
"s& L. and S.-W. Rly. (Loop line).
Whitton is noteworthy for its seats, and
icedaTs, nursery and fruit gardens, and
memories of Sir Godfrey Kneller and the
Duke of Argyll. The Uttle Crane brook
winds deviously through it — a pretty
brook which .the otters that once
haunted its banks have not whoUy aban
doned, a pair having been seen, and
hunted, .in the autumn of 1875. The
market gardens are very extensive and
celebrated. Large quantities of straw
berries are grown. Vincent Corbet, father
of Bp. Corbet, had a nursery at Whitton,
and dying in 1619, was buried in Twicken
ham ch. Ben Jonson wrote his epitaph :
" His .mind as pure and neatly kept
As were his nurseries, and swept
So of uncleanness or offence
That never came ill odour thence."
He was a contributor to Sir Hugh Piatt's
' Garden of Eden.' (See Ewell.) Sir
John Suckling, the poet, was born at
Whitton in 1609. It was to an old farm
house at Whitton that Dr. Dodd (hanged
for forgery June 27th, 1777), was tracked
and there arrested.
Whitton Place was built by Archibald
Earl of May, .afterwards Duke of Argyll.
The grounds, which were very extensive,
were partly taken from Hounslow Heath,
in virtue of a grant obtained from the
Crown. Lord Islay spent large sums in
planting them with cedars (raised from
seed in 1725), Scotch firs, and exotics.
According to Walpole, we are principaUy
indebted to him for " the introduction of
foreign trees and plants " that have
" contributed essentially to the richness
of modern landscape." His aboriculture
did not, however, escape criticism. An
' Epigram on Lord Islay's Garden,' by the
Rev. James Bramston (author of ' The
Man of Taste'), particularly diverted
Walpole. " Old Islay, to show his fine delicate taste
In improving his gardens purloin'd from the
waste,
Bade his gard'ner one day to open his views,
By cutting a couple of grand avenues :
No particular prospect his lordship intended,
But left it to chance how his walks should be
ended.

With transport and joy he beheld his first view
end
In a favourite prospect— a church that was
ruin'd:*
But alas ! what a sight did the next cut exhibit !
At the end of a walk hung a rogue on a gibbet 1
He beheld it and wept, for it caused him to
muse on ...
Full many a Campbell that died with his shoes
on.
All amazed and aghast at the ominous scene,
He order'd it quick to be clos'd up again
With a clump of Scotch firs, that seiVd for a
screen."
After his death the house changed hands
more than once, and the trees and plants
were mostly removed, with the exception
of the firs and cedars : the choicest were
transplanted to Kew Gardens about 1762.
At length the property was purchased by
Mr. Goatling, who divided the grounds
into two parts, reserving one in which
was the Grand Conservatory, which he
converted into a villa, for himself ; the
other, with the Duke's house, he sold to
Sir William Chambers.
Whitton Place in the hands of Chambers
underwent many alterations. He con
verted the house into an Italian villa,
which-svas greatly admired at the time ;
the grounds he filled with statues, ruins,
and temples — among the latter being one
to .SSsculapius raised in honour of Dr,
Willis. In the house he formed a coUec
tion of antique statues, pictures, and a
splendid library of works on architecture.
After Chambers's death the property was
repurchased by the Gostling family, and
was for a while the residence of Sir Benj.
Hobhouse, M.P. After Hobhouse va
cated it, Whitton Place was taken down,
and the grounds united with those of
Whitton Park.
Nothing is left of Chambers's house.
That which was built on the site and
partly out of the Duke of Argyll's con
servatory is now the mansion of Whitton
Park, and is the seat of Miss Gostling.
The books, marbles, etc., collected by
Chambers are preserved. The park is
large and fairly wooded. In it are two
good sheets of water, and a tower or ob
servatory. The firs and cedars, now 150
years old, are magnificent.
Knellex Hall. — About ^ a mile E. of
Whitton Place, Sir Godfrey KneUer, the
* The body of Twickenham ch. had recently
fallen down, leaving the tower standing. (See
Twickenham, p. 640.)

WHITTON.

695

WICKHAM, EAST.

famous painter, built himself a house,
1709-1711, made it his summer residence,
in it spent his last years, and died, 1723.
It was of red brick, stately, had good
rooms and a grand staircase, which, ac
cording to the fashion of the time, was
painted by Laguerre. Kneller intended
to employ Sir James Thornhill, but hear
ing that he was engaged on a portrait of
Sir Isaac Newton, said no portrait painter
should paint his house, and called in
Laguerre. Kneller, the most fortunate
of portrait painters, had painted ten
monarchs, and been celebrated in verse
by Dryden, Prior, Pope, Addison, Steele,
and Tickell. He was very wealthy, lived
here in great state, was a justice of the
peace, and, having no distrust of his own
judgment, was apt to decide, as Walpole
says, by equity rather than by law.
Pope's lines are said to have been occa
sioned by an actual occurrence, — KneUer
having dismissed a man who stole a joint
of meat, and reprimanded the owner for
putting temptation in the poor man's way.
" I think Sir Godfrey should decide the suit,
Who sent the thief, that stole the cash, away,
And punish'd him that put it in his way."
After the death of Kneller's widow the
house became the residence of Sir Samuel
Prime. Later it was purchased by Mr.
Calvert, who had the house enlarged and
remodelled under the superintendence of
Mr. PhiUp Hardwick, R.A. Kneller Hall,
as the house was now called, was pur
chased in 1847 by the Council of Educa
tion, and converted into a Training School
for Schoolmasters of Workhouse Schools,
the first master being Dr. Fredk. Temple,
subsequently Master of Rugby, and now
Bishop of Exeter. To fit it for a training
school, the house was in a measure trans
formed ; but in 1856 it was still further
altered on being transferred to the War
Department, and converted into a school
for the education of bandmasters and
musicians for the army. The Royal
Military School of Music provides a
thorough course of practical and theo
retical instruction, under a competent
staff of teachers. Little is now left of
Kneller's house. The grounds are about
34 acres in extent.
A pretty little Church (St. Philip and
St. James) was erected at the parting of
the roads, E. of Whitton Park, in 1862,
from the designs of Mr. F. H. PownalL

It is E.E. in style ; the exterior Kentish
rag, the interior brick ; and has several of
the windows filled with painted glass.
WICKHAM, EAST, Kent, 10 m.
from London, 2 m. S.E. from Woolwich
Arsenal, and IJ m. S. from Abbey Wood
Stat, of the S.-E. Rly. (N. Kent Branch) ;
pop. 942.
East Wickham derives its name from
its situation by what was of old the high
road to Dover (wic, road or way ; ham,
a dwelling), with the prefix East to dis
tinguish it from West Wiokham. The
Dover road now passes nearly a mile S. of
the village. East Wickham is pleasantly
situated, but contains nothing besides the
ch. to interest a stranger. The pursuits
are agricultural, and a great quantity of
fruit is grown ; but many of the inhabit
ants are employed in Woolwich dockyard
and arsenal.
The Church (St. Michael) stands away
from the houses on the E. side of the lane.
It is smaU and humble, and a good deal
out of repair, but picturesque and inte
resting. It is of flint and stone, patched,
and strengthened with brick buttresses,
and was probably built by Robert Burnell,
Bishop of Bath and Wells, who held three-
fourths of the manor from 1284 to his
death in 1292. It consists of a nave and
chancel, with a small wooden bell turret
(containing two old bells) at the W. end.
The N. ,waU has two original lancet win
dows, deeply splayed inside. The chancel
has a small 3-Ught Perp. window. The
S. wall and west end are modern. The
interior has tall pews, a plastered ceiling,
and whitewashed walls; but under the
whitewash are ten or a dozen 13th cent.
frescoes, chiefly of events in the Ufe of the
Saviour. In the chancel is a brass (14th
cent., much mutilated), with half effigies
within the head of a cusped cross, of John
de Bradigdone and wife Maud— note
worthy for her costume. On the N. wall
is another in good condition, with effigies
of William Payn, yeoman of the guard,
d. 1568, and two of his wives, the third wife
and her son being lost. In the ch.-yard
obs., from S. of the ch., the fine view be
tween the hills N.E. towards Plumstead*
and Woolwich. East Wickham House (R.
Jones, Esq.) is a good mansion a little
W. of the ch. Welling, on the Dover
road, is partly in this parish.

WICKHAM, WEST.

696

WICKHAM, WEST.

WICKHAM, WEST, Kent (Dom.
Wicheham). Ues N. of Addington, Surrey,
and W. of Hayes, Kent, 2£ m. S. of the
Beckenham Stat, of the S.-E. and L. C.
and D. Rlys. Pop. 884. Inn, Swan, a
good country house.
West Wickham— the West prefixed to
distinguish it from two other Kentish
Wickhams, East Wickham, near Plum
stead, and Wickham Breaux, near Can
terbury — is situated in the midst of a
pleasant and beautiful country, at present
not greatly disfigured by the builder. The
par. is large, the surface and soil varied ;
chalk, clay, sand, and gravel occur in
different parts, and there are woods, hills,
deep hollows, or " bottoms," rich in ferns
and wild flowers, and long, winding, um
brageous lanes, but commonless, though
close to Hayes Common.
The manor belonged in the reign of the
Confessor to one Godrick ; by William I.
was given to Odo, Bp. of Bayeux ; during
the 14th cent, belonged to the Hunting-
fields ; then passed to the Coppledikes,
Squerreys, Trevalians, and Scropes. About
1470 it became the property of Sir Henry
Heydon, in whose family it remained for
a century, when it was sold by Sir WiUiam
Heydon to John Lennard, Esq. The pre
sent lord of West Wickham manor is Col.
J. Farnaby Lennard.
West Wickham Court, the seat of Col.
J. F. Lennard, occupies the site of the
ancient manor-house, and is itself a build
ing of respectable antiquity. There are
subterraneous passages, and a dungeon
under the N.W. turret, which may have
belonged to the mediseval castellated
mansion. The present house is in the
main the " right fair manor place " which
Sir Henry Heydon built in the reign of
Henry VII. It is of red brick, has octa
gonal turrets at the angles, was surrounded
by a moat, and clearly had originaUy some
what the character of a fortress, being
strong enough to withstand a marauding
attack, if not to sustain a siege. The house
has been often altered, added to, and
modernized, but retains much of its
antique character, and is very interesting.
Besides a fine old manorial hall with a
gallery, the interior contains some good
rooms, and interesting family and other
pictures. At a house in West Wickham, but not
at Wickham Court, as is commonly stated,

resided, from 1729 till his death, 1751,
Gilbert West, the translator of Pindar,
author of some original poetry which
gained him a place among Johnson's
Poets, and of ' Observations on the Resur
rection,' and other religious pieces. West
" was very often visited by Lyttelton and
Pitt, who, when they were weary of faction
and debates, used at Wickham to find
books and quiet, a decent table, and
literary conversation. There is at Wick
ham a walk made by Pitt : and, what is of
far more importance, at Wickham Lyttelton
received that conviction which produced
his ' Dissertation on St. Paul.' " * Among
the eminent friends who visited West at
Wickham was Glover, the author of
' Leonidas. ' Glover was subject to strange
fits of absence of mind. One morning, as
Lord Lyttelton looked from his dressing-
room window, he saw Glover in the garden
below, pacing to and fro with a whip in
his hand, and gesticulating vehemently,
as though in a fit of poetic ardour. It
was in the days when tuUps were the rage.
Mrs. West was a zealous florist, and she
had a bed of choice tulips ready to blow,
just then her peculiar care. By these
Glover was declaiming, when, to his dis
may, Lyttelton beheld him suddenly apply
his whip vigorously to their stalks, and
" before there was time to awaken him
from his reverie," the unlucky tulips were
levelled with the ground. So entirely
unconscious was he, that when the devas
tation was pointed out to him he could
with difficulty be brought to believe he
had committed it.
William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, had a
house, South Lodge, in West Wickham
village, before his removal to Hayes.
Monk's Orchard (Lewis Lloyd, Esq.) is a
spacious castellated mansion, erected in
1860, on the site of West Wickham Park.
West Wickham House is a large and
picturesque mansion, very pleasantly
situated, erected in 1871, in the revived
Queen Anne's style, from the designs of
Mr. Norman Shaw, A.R.A. Other seats
are Wickham Hall (J. S. Forbes, Esq.) ;
Ravenswood (Misses Hall), etc.
The Church (St. John the Baptist)
occupies an elevated site near Wickham
Court, the ch.-yard looking down into

* Johnson, Lives of the Poets, vol. iii. : Gilbert
West.

WILLESDEN.

697

WILLESDEN.

deep hollows on nearly all sides ; all
around are great elms, and the grouped
chimneys and ivy-covered turrets of
Wickham Court strengthen the character
and charm of the scene. At the entrance
to the ch.-yard is an old oak lich-gate
with a tiled roof. The church was rebuilt
in the reign of Henry VII. by Sir Henry
Heydon, the builder of Wickham Court.
Though in the main late Perp. in style,
some fragments of the older ch. seem to
have been retained or inserted. It is of
flint and stone, in part covered with
plaster, and comprises nave, chancel, and
N. aisle, and low square entrance tower on
the S.W., with heavy double buttresses at
the angles, and a peal of 5 bells inside.
The int. was restored in 1844, and is in
good condition. In the windows is some
good 16th cent, painted glass, figures of
St. Anne, St. Christopher with the Child
Saviour, St. Catherine, etc. Monts. in N.
aisle to Sir Samuel Lennard, 1618 ; and
others to members of the Lennard family.
In the chancel are a piscina and ambrey ;
in the E. end of the N. aisle a second
piscina. Brasses, small, to Wm. Thorpe,
rector, 1407 ; Sir John Stokton, priest,
1515 ; and mutilated effigy of a priest.
On the floor are many fragments of
encaustic tiles, apparently from the older
church. The viUage, Wickham Street, is nearly
a mile N. of the church. It is a pleasant
quiet cluster of country cottages about a
green, and along the road to Croydon.
Note at the parting of the roads the grand
old village elm, with seats beneath it, and
opposite it the comfortable-looking village
inn, the Swan. The walks hence, along
Wickham Bottom to Addington, and in
the opposite direction to Beckenham, or
eastward to Hayes Common, are very
beautiful.
WLDMORE, Kent (see Bromley).
WILLESDEN, or WILSDON,
Middx. (Dom. Wellesdone), a semi-
suburban vill., lying to the W. of the
Edgware road, about i\ m. from Hyde
Park Corner. The L. and N.-W. Rly. runs
along the western side of the par., and
has a stat. near Harlesden, the Willesden
Junction Stat., which serves also for the
N. London line. The Midland Rly. has a

stat. at Dudding Hill, about \ m. N.E. of
Willesden ch., and another by the Harrow
road for the new district called Stone-
bridge Park. Pop. of Willesden par.
15,869. Inns: White Horse; White Hart,
Church End.
A very few years ago Willesden was a
quiet, retired, thoroughly rural village, a
favourite haunt of the hoUday-maker,
summer rambler, botanist, and sketcher,
who reckoned on the White Horae for a
substantial country lunch or dinner. Now
London has reached its outskirts. The
builder has invaded the once tranquil
meadows ; field-paths (and fields also) are
disappearing ; and the lanes are for the
most part green no longer. As late as
1861, though the irruption had made great
progress, the pop. of the parish was under
4000 ; in 1871 it was nearly 16,000 (more
exactly, 3879 and 15,869). The chief in
crease of course was at the London end,
those parts of Kilburn (Holy Trinity) and
Kensal Green which are in Willesden par.,
and which contained respectively 10,399
and 2138 inh. Since 1871 the increase has
been commensurate and continuous. Still
the more distant parts towards Wembly,
Neasdon, Kingsbury, and Twyford remain
comparatively rural.
The manors of Willesden and Harlesden
were held by the Canons of St. Paul's at
the Domesday Survey — the original grant
was by King Athelstan — and have been
held by them ever since. But in the course
of the 12th cent, they were divided, and
appropriated to prebendaries, — Willesden,
in the southern and eastern half of the
par., into WiUesden, Brandsbury, or as it
is now caUed Brondesbury, Mapesbury,
and Chambers, or Chamberlain's Wood ;
Harlesden (Herulvestune), the western and
northern portion, into Harlesden, East
Twyford, Neasdon, and Oxgate : there are
thus no fewer than 8 prebendal manors in
the parish.
The Church (St. Mary) is interesting.
Previous to 1850 it consisted of a nave
and chancel, S. aisle, tower at the W. end
of the aisle, and S. porch. It had suffered
from alterations, was partially covered
with -stucco, and was much out of order,
but had a venerable and picturesque
aspect, and was in great favour with
artists and sketchers. Several engravings
of it exist, but that which best exhibits its
picturesque character is a spirited etching

WILLESDEN.

698

WILLESDEN.

made by George Cooke in 1828. In 1851
it was enlarged and repaired, substantiaUy,
but with some artistic loss. In 1872 it
was carefully restored throughout under
the direction of Mr. Edw. J. Tarver ; a N.
aisle, chapel or transept, and entrance
porch added; the cement cleared from
the exterior ; the tower opened to the
interior; and the ground floor of the
tower converted into a baptistery.
The body of the fabric is of different
dates. The arcade of the S. aisle, of 3
bays with circular piers, is E.E., and the
oldest part of the ch. ; but in the recent
restoration, some fragments of the earlier
Norm, ch., including the round arches of
two narrow windows, were discovered in
removing the N. wall. The chancel, S.
aisle, and tower are Perp. The new chapel
or transept at the end of the N. aisle is
E.E. in style. The N. arcade has been
constructed to correspond with that of the
S. aisle, on the bases of an ancient arcade
found in situ, the first pier being formed
of the old stones exhumed in clearing the
ground. The tower rests on arches, has
buttresses at the angles, a wide stair-
turret terminating at the belfry, battle
mented parapet, and low pyramidal roof,
and contains a peal of 6 bells. The eastern
bay of the S. aisle forms a chantry open
ing to the aisle and chancel by arches, and
a similar arrangement has been adopted
in the N. aisle. In the E. window is a
representation of the Crucifixion ; some of
the windows in the aisles have painted
glass ; that in the W. window of the nave,
by Halliday, was inserted in 1875. The
piscina in the S. wall of the chancel was
found during the recent restoration, and
removed to its present position. The
sediUa, reredos, and pavement of encaustic
tiles in the sacrarium are new. The late
Norm, font, no doubt that of the earUer
ch., has a large square black marble bowl,
with sharp carvings at the angles, sup
ported on a thick central stem and 4
corner shafts. In the N. wall of the
chancel is a recessed or Easter sepulchre,
and another is in the S. wall of the E.
chantry. The old pews have been re
moved, and open seats substituted — with
a single exception, the proprietor of one
tall pew sturdily insisting on the main
tenance of his legal rights.
The monts. include a tablet to Richard
Paine, d. 1606, set. 95, J.P., and gentle

man pensioner to Henry VIII., Edward
VI., Q. Mary, Q. EUzabeth, and James I.
John Barne, 1615 ; Sir John Francklyn,
1647 ; several to the Roberts family, and
a gravestone to General Charles Ottway,
d. 1764. Brasses : Bartholomew Willes
den, 1492, and wives ; Mary Robert and
children, 1505 ; Edmund Robert and
wives, 1585 ; Jane Barne, 1609 ; also
WilUam Lichfield, vicar, in cope and
amice, 1517.
The woodenhouse in the ch.-yard shown
in Cooke's etching, and all the other old
buildings, have been pulled down, and the
ch.-yard enlarged.
The scene of some of Jack Shepherd
the ubiquitous highwayman's exploits
is laid by his romancing biographer at
Willesden ; Cruikshank has drawn him
picking pockets at Willesden ch. ; and
equally trustworthy tradition has buried
him in Willesden ch.-yard : but he is un
recorded on church register or memorial
stone. An inventory of the church furniture
of the middle of the 13th cent, contains
entries of a scarlet banner with a repre
sentation of the Virgin Mary of cloth of
gold ; and of two large carved images of
the Virgin. These probably had reference,
or may have given rise, to the pilgrimage
to Our Lady of Willesden, a popular
pilgrimage resembUng the more famous
one to Our Lady of Walsingham. The
object of adoration at Walsingham was a
wooden shrine of St. Mary, in the form of
the Holy House of Nazareth. There may
have been a shrine, there was certainly
an image, asserted to be miraculous, of
St. Mary in Willesden ch., and to it the
Londoners of both sexes flocked in great
numbers, it being in the 15th cent, their
most favourite resort. But the pilgrims
were, at least in the later years of the
pilgrimage, often persons of immoral
character ; and the pUgrimage itself was
the occasion of much scandal. " Ye men
of London," said the Scottish friar, Father
Donald, in a sermon he preached at St.
Paul's Cross, not long before the sup
pression of the pilgrimage, " gang you
yourselves with your wives to WUlesden,
in the Devyl's name, or else keep them at
home with you with sorrow." The pil
grimage was suppressed, and the miracu
lous image of Our Lady of Willesden
was destroyed at Chelsea, along with the

WILLESDEN.

699

WILMINGTON.

shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, in
1648. Willesden is made up of many parts.
There are a few houses about the ch., at
what is called Church End; more at
Willesden Green, 1 m. E. of the ch.,
formerly a picturesque collection of old
houses about a village green, removed to
make way for rows of mean brick cottages ;
Queen's Town, of modern growth, midway
between Church End and the Green ; the
outlying hamlets of Neasdon, Harlesden,
Sherrick Green, Dollis Hill, Stonebridge
Park, and Brondesbury, but most thickly
of aU at the London end of the par., Kil-
burn and Kensal Green. There are a few
good seats, but no buUdings of import
ance. The institutions — all on a small
scale — include a Working Men's Institute;
Workmen's Hall ; Good Templars and
Temperance Orphanage ; Horticultural
Association, etc.
In Willesden Lane is a Jewish cemetery,
consecrated Oct. 1873, and in which were
interred Baron Mayer de Rothschild, Feb.
1874, and Sir Anthony de Rothschild,
Jan. 1876. The grounds are prettily laid
out and planted, and there are three
carefully finished buUdings of Kentish
rag and Bath stone, with shafts of red
Mansfield stone, Dec. in style, designed
by Mr. N. S. Joseph, in which the various
burial rites are performed. The larger
building in the centre is that in which the
coffin is deposited, and the preliminary
prayers recited. The others are for spe
cial ceremonial observances.
Harlesden Green, somewhat over 1 m.
S. of Willesden Church End, and i m. N.
of Willesden Junction Stat., was a quiet
rustic hamlet, but has been utterly spoiled
by the builder. Here are a small chapel-
of-ease, dissenting chapels, and several
pubUc-houses. Harlesden House (T. Nixon
Kerr, Esq.) is a good mansion standing
in grounds noted for horticultural and
floricultural displays.
Brondesbury, nearly 2 m. S. of Church
End, near the Edgware road and KUburn
WeUs, is a new district of genteel villas.
With the adjacent hamlet of Mapesbury
it forms the eccl. dist. of Brondesbury
Christ Church, which in 1871 had a pop.
of 1094 — since much increased. The
Church, erected in 1866 from the designs
of Mr. R. B. King, is a spacious stone
structure, E.E. in style, and cruciform,

with tower and tall spire. Brondesbury
Park, the seat of Thos. Brandon, Esq.,
stands in large grounds W. of the ch.
Cricklewood, N.W. of Brondesbury and
Mapeswood, is a hamlet of Willesden on
the Edgware road, the pretty rural tract
so named stretching away to Child's Hill,
Golder's Green, and Hampstead. The
Midland Rly. runs through it, and has a
stat., which serves for both Child's Hill
and Cricklewood.
Neasdon, J m. N. of Church End, in the
most rural part of Willesden, has a sepa
rate notice. Half a mile W. of it, in the
lane leading to the Edgware road, is the
pretty little hamlet of Dollis Hill, in an
elevated, well wooded, and picturesque
district. Sherrick Green, midway between Dollis
Green and Church End, lies in a hollow
on a Uttle feeder of the Brent away from
the main road, and looks pleasant, peace
ful, and secluded.
Stonebridge Park, by the 5 m. stone on
the Harrow road, about | m. S.W. of
Church End, is a cluster of 60 or 80 smart
new viUas for City men, with a large inn,
the Stonebridge Park Hotel, and a station
on the Midland Rly.
WILMINGTON, Kent, on the 1.
bank of the Darent, IJ m. S. of Dartford,
on the road to Sevenoaks. Pop. 1105.
Standing chiefly on the side of a hill
which slopes down to the Darent, the
situation is naturaUy pleasant, and there
are from many points good views over
the adjacent country ; but the gunpowder
mills prevent free access to the river, and
on the Dartford side the builder is encroach
ing. The village cottages on the road
side are in straight rows, and not attrac
tive. But away from road and river-mills,
more of rusticity is preserved. There are
broad well-cultivated fields, good farms,
orchards, and gardens. Fruit is largely
grown, and the neighbourhood is noted
for its cherry orchards : a church path, S.
of the ch., runB through one, and will
enable the visitor to observe the system
of culture. The trees are kept well
pruned, and currants are planted in the
spaces between them. Very pretty they
look in April, when in blossom; very
tempting three or four months later,
when in fruit.
The Church (St. Michael) stands on the

WIMBLEDON.

700

WIMBLEDON.

brow of the bill. It has nave and chancel
of equal height, a short N. aisle ; and
at the W. end a wooden belfry and short
octagonal spire. It is of flint and stone ;
Dec. in style, the windows small, except
the E. window, which is a Perp. insertion.
The ch. was restored throughout in 1868.
The interior is neat, but uninteresting. It
has open seats, a W. gaUery, and a good
carved pulpit of the reign of James I.
About the ch.-yard are several large elms;
but a row of 9 of noble proportions, which
skirted the northern side of the ch.-yard,
rendered it uncommonly picturesque from
below, and served as a screen from the N.
and N.E. blasts, was cut down in April
1867, and ch. and ch.-yard suffer not a
little from the Vandalism.
Wilmington Manor House, by the
village, now ruinous, occupies the site of
a residence of the King-maker Warwick.
Later the manor belonged to Margaret
Plantagenet, Countess of Salisbury, and
mother of Cardinal Pole. Wilmington
House (F. Talbot Tasker, Esq.), and
Mount Pleasant (E. Lewis, Esq.), are
some distance S. and S.W. Other seats
are Hulse Wood (T. Dunster, Esq.), and
Monks' Orchard (J. C. Hayward, Esq.)
Wilmington Common stretches S.W.
from the ch. A mile or so farther W. is
Joy den's Wood, also in this parish, where
are traces of early works and buildings,
the age and purpose of which are not
clearly determined.
WIMBLEDON, Surrey, a vill.
on the south-eastern edge of Wimbledon
Common, 3 m. S. of Putney, and 7 m.
from Hyde Park Corner. The Wimbledon
Stat, of the L. and S.-W. Rly. is 4 m. S.E.
of the vill., and 1\ m. from the Waterloo
Stat. Lines diverge here to Mitcham,
Tooting, the Crystal Palace, Croydon,
and Epsom. Pop. 9087.
The received derivation of Wimbledon,
anciently written Wymbaldon, Wymbel-
don, and Wi/mbeldon, is from " some
Saxon proprietor Wymbald, and dun or
dune, a hill in the Saxon language." *
But the earliest form is Wibban-dune,]
and suggests Worms Hill, or Worms
* Bray ley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iii., p. 499;
Lysons, Environs, vol. i., p. 391.
t A.-S. Chronicle, An. 568 ; Ethelwerd has Uub-
bandune; Florence of Worcester, Wibbandtme ;
Henry of Huntingdon, Wipandune.

Down, rather than Wymbald's Hill, as
the radical : Wibba, a worm ; dun, a hill
or down ; though Wibba may have been
a proper name.
A battle was fought at Wibbandune in
the year 568 between Ceawlin, King of
Wessex, and iEthelbriht, King of Kent,
when the latter was defeated and driven
back into Kent, and two of his ealdermen,
Oslaf and Cnebba, were slain. The great
entrenchment now known as Cassar's
Camp — to be noticed presently — shows
that Wimbledon had been the scene of
military operations at an earlier period ;
and it may have been to gain possession of
this fortress that Ceawlin and iEthelbriht
fought. Wimbledon is not mentioned in the
Domesday record, no doubt because it
then formed a part of the Abp. of Canter
bury's great manor of Mortlake. It
appears to have been a grange or farm,
and was held with the manor till that was
aUenated by Cranmer to Henry VIII. in
exchange for other lands. Henry granted
Wimbledon to Thomas Cromwell, and
after his attainder settled it upon Queen
Catherine Parr for her Ufe. It was given
by Queen Mary to Cardinal Pole. In 1576
Queen EUzabeth granted the manor-house
to Sir Christopher Hatton, who sold it the
same year to Sir Thos. Cecil (afterwards
Earl of Exeter), to whom, 14 years later,
Elizabeth transferred the manor in ex
change for an estate in Lincolnshire.
Cecil bequeathed the estate to his 3rd
son, Sir Edward Cecil, created by Charles I.
Viscount Wimbledon and Baron Putney ;
on whose decease in 1638 it was sold to
Queen Henrietta Maria. Seized by the
Parliament as Crown land, it was valued
by their surveyors at £386 19s. 8d. a year,
and sold to Adam Baynes, of Knowstrop,
Yorkshire, at 18 years' purchase. He
shortly after parted with it to General
Lambert, who was lord of the manor in
1656. On the return of Charles II. it was
restored to the Queen-Dowager, and sold
by her in 1661 to George Digby, Earl of
Bristol. On his death in 1676 it was
sold by his widow to the Lord Treasurer
Danby, created, 1694, Duke of Leeds.
He died in 1712, and in 1717 Wimbledon
was sold under a decree in Chancery to
Sir Theodore Jansen, Bart. He was one
of the directors of the South Sea Com
pany, and when that bubble burst,

WIMBLEDON.

701

WIMBLEDON.

Wimbledon was put up for sale, and
purchased by Sarah Duchess of Marl
borough for £15,000. She demised it to
John Spencer, M.P., youngest son of
Charles Earl of Sunderland, by her
Grace's second daughter, Lady Anne
Churchill. On his death it devolved on
his only son John, created Earl Spencer
and Viscount Althorp in 1765, from whom
it descended to John, 6th Earl Spencer,
who sold his manorial rights in 1871.
Under the archbishops, some curious
manorial customs had to be observed by
the tenants. When a new abp. came for
the first time to Wimbledon, each cus
tomary tenant must present him with " a
gyfte called saddle silver," of the value of
5 marks. Every tenant of two-yard-lands,
or 30 acres, was liable to serve the office
of beadle ; of three-yard-lands, that of
reeve or provost. On the death of a free
holder, the lord was entitled to " his best
horse, saddyl, brydeU, spere, sworde,
hoots, spores, and armure, if he any
should have." * Lands descend to the
youngest son.
WhUst stiU only lessee of the manor-
house, Sir Thomas Cecil buUt himself in
1588, " the year of the Armada," a magni
ficent mansion, long famous as Wimbledon
House. " A daring structure," Thomas
Fuller caUed it, comparable with the
royal palace of Nonsuch. The architect
was John Thorpe, among whose designs
in the Soane Museum is one of " Wymble-
ton an howse standing on the edg of an
hie MU." Here Sir Thomas, then Lord
Burghley, entertained Queen Elizabeth
for three days in the early part of 1599.
In June 1616, and again in June 1619,
James I. was here at banquet and hunting.
Gondomar, the Spanish ambassador, was
also magnificently feasted at Wimbledon,
and in return initiated its owner in the
mysteries of the Spanish oUo.
"The old Earl [of Exeter] was very fond of him
[Lord Rossi, and for his sake began to comply with
Count Gondomar, the Spanish ambassador, and
as I take it feasted him at his house at Wimble
don ; and I was once at dinner with the Earl of
Exeter, when the Ambassador sent him a Spanish
olio, a pie consisting of many ingredients, out of
which pie I did eat bacon, pheasant, partridge,
chesnuts, pease, and many other things." + 
* Records of Manor, quoted by Lysons, vol. i.,
p. 393 ; Bartlett, Hist, and Ant. of Wimbledon,
P't Bp. Goodman, Court of King James, vol. i.,
p. 194.

When Wimbledon House became the
property of Queen Henrietta Maria, she
enriched it with a fine collection of
paintings and works of art. Charles I.
was often there, took much interest in
the gardens, and only a few days be
fore his trial ordered some seeds of
Spanish melons to be "planted in his
garden at Wimbledon." The Parlia
mentary General Lambert, who succeeded
Charles and his Queen in the occu
pancy of Wimbledon House, was as fond
as the King of the gardens and pictures.
At Wimbledon House, Lambert " turned
florist, and had the finest tulips and
giUiflowers that could be had for love
or money." * He was as fond of paint
ing flowers as growing them, and when
dispossessed of the house at the Resto
ration, a mocking pamphlet, that pro
fessed to be ' The Humble Petition of
the Lord Lambert,' makes him beg that
the Parliament '• would let him see once
again Wimbledon House and the Queen's
pictures." Several pictures of his paint
ing are said to have been long preserved
in Wimbledon House.
The Queen-Dowager, as we have seen,
sold Wimbledon to the Earl of Bristol,
who spent a considerable sum in repairs
and alterations.
"3 February, 1662. — I went with my Lord of
Bristol to see his house at Wimbledon, newly
bought of the Queene Mother, to help contrive the
garden after the moderne. It is a delicious place
for prospect and the thicketts, but the soile cold
and weeping clay." t
Here occurred the curious scene of the
Earl of Bristol's pubUc renunciation of
Catholicism, recorded by the Comte de
Comminges, the French ambassador, who
professes great indignation that such an
act is allowed to pass unpunished.
" Last Sunday the Earl of Bristol appeared in
the parish church of Oulmilton, about 2 leagues
from London, with a notary and witnesses, and
made a public declaration that he was a Protestant,
and that from his heart he renounced the Catholic
religion. After that he took the minister and
other gentlemen to dine- with him, for the house
belonged to him, he having purchased it of the
Queen Mother. The dinner ended he mounted
his horse with 4 gentlemen and rode away. The
act is insolent and daring, and leads one to sup
pose he will present himself to take his seat as
as soon as the Parliament opens." t
* Coke's Detection, p. 406.
t Evelyn, Diary.
j Comminges, Au Roi (Louis XIV.), Jan. 25—
Pev. 4, 1663-4, quoted in App. to Pepys, vol. v.,
p. 436.

WIMBLEDON.

702

WIMBLEDON.

Bristol was at this time busy intriguing
against the Lord Chancellor Clarendon,
and the King tried without success to
reconcile them. Somewhat later Pepys is
told that " the King is offended at my
Lord of Bristol," and "sent a guard and
a herald last night to have taken him at
Wimbleton, where he was in the morning,
but could not find him ; at which the
King was and is still mightily concerned,
and runs up and down to and fro from
the Chancellor's like a boy : and it seems
would make Bristol's articles against the
Chancellor to be treasonable reflections
against his Majesty. . . . God knows
what will come of it." * Nothing came
of it ; the business, as Pepys notes, was
" hushed up," and the Earl died in quiet
possession of Wimbledon, in 1676.
Wimbledon House suffered severely
whUst in the occupation of Sir Edward
Cecil Viscount Wimbledon, by an ex
plosion of gunpowder, 1628; and very
curiously his stately London mansion on
the N. side of the Strand was the day
after destroyed by fire. Wimbledon
House was quickly repaired, and redeco
rated, and the exterior painted in fresco
by Francis Cleyn.f The ParUamentary
Survey, made in 16494 an^ *ne *wo
large views, of the principal front and the
gardenf ront, engraved by "Henry Winstan-
ley at Littlebury in Essex," 1678, give a
tolerably clear notion of Cecil's house. It
occupied an elevated site on the hill-side,
and was approached from the outer gate by
no fewer than " 5 several ascents," each a
stately flight, and in all " consisting of
three score and ten steps." In the Lower
Court was a fair fountain ; the Upper
formed the approach to the house. The
house consisted of a centre and deep
projecting wings, with square turrets at
the inner angles, capped by tall pyramidal
roofs. The fabric was of " an excellent
good brick .... the angles, window
stanchions an'3 jambs all of ashler stone."
The grand central entrance porch had
" columns of free-stone very well wrought."
The garden front, though less varied, was
stately and ornate ; the side fronts rose
from broad terraces, overlooking sunk
gardens, an arrangement that reminds
one of Hatfield House, which it will be
* Pepys, Diary, 14th March, 1664.
t Walpole, Anecdotes, vol. ii., p. 227.
X Archaeologia, vol. x.

remembered had been completed by
Cecil's father only 10 or 12 years before
the erection of Wimbledon House.
The interior contained on the ground
floor " a room called the Stone Gallery,
108 foote long, seeled over head, pillored
and arched with grey marble." Like the
gaUery at Hatfield, it was lined with oak
wainscot, but this was garnished with
green and spotted with stars of gold, and
" benched all along the sides and angles."
In the middle of the gallery was a grotto,
" wrought in the arch and sides thereof
with sundry sorts of sheUs, of great lustre
and ornament, formed into the shapes of
men, Uons, serpents, antick formes, and
other rare devices," with in the centre a
jet of water. Opposite to the doors of
this room are "fortie sights of seeing
glass sett together in one frame, much
adorning and setting forth the splendour
of the roome." A great' table " of one
entire piece of wood, 21 feet long and 6
inches thick," stood in the middle of the
gallery. Around the room was " a border
or fret having set therein 11 pictures of
very good workmanship." The ceiling
was of fretwork with a well-wrought
landscape in the centre, and 7 others in
surrounding panels. The floor was of
black and white marble. Outside a bal
cony extended the whole length of the
gallery. An Organ Room had " a fayre
and rich payre of organs." The Chapel
had " a quadrate arched roof," painted with
landscapes ; as were also the walls above
the oak wainscoting. The pavement
was of black and white marble, poUshed,
The Lower Parlour ; the Balcony Room ;
the King's Chamber, the Queen's Cham
ber, Withdrawing Rooms, Bath Rooms,
and other principal rooms on this floor,
had all richly fretted and decorated ceil
ing, were lined with oak, and variously
adorned. A stone gallery 62 feet long,
had on the walls " many sententious
sentences " — for the edification, perhaps,
of suitors pacing its length whilst waiting
an audience.
Staircases in the turrets led to the upper
floor. The waUs of both were lined with
paintings — "landskipps of battles, an-
ticks, heaven and hell " — whilst at the
head of one hung a great picture of Henry
IV. of France on horseback. Under the
stairs was " a little compleate roome, called
the ' Den of Lyons,' painted round with

WIMBLEDON.

703

WIMBLEDON.

lyons and leopards." The Great Gallery
on the upper floor, 109 ft. 8 in. long and
21 ft. wide, was "floored with cedar
boards, casting u pleasant smell," and
Uned with oak wainscot to the height of
nearly 14 ft. ; the pilasters and panels
bossed with stars and crosses and fillets
of gold, the ceiling delicately wrought in
fretwork, very well lighted, and having
in the midst a fair large chimneypiece
" of black and white marble, engraved with
coats of arms, adorned with several
curious and well-gilded statues of alabas
ter, with a foot-pace of black and white
marble." Contiguous to this was the
Summer Chamber, and on the same floor
were the Duke's Chamber, the Duchess's
Chamber, and various others.
Around the house were gardens filled,
besides flowers, with over a thousand
fruit trees, orangeries, alleys, mazes, wil
dernesses, etc., whilst from the ascent in
front of the house was " a way cut forth
of the park." lined with elms aud other
great trees " in very decent order, extend
ing itself in a direct line, 231 perches
from thence, quite through the park north
ward unto Putney Common."
Sir Theodore Jansen had begun to pull
down Wimbledon House — " the finest
house round London," as Swift caUed it —
in order to build another on the site,
when it passed from his hands to those of
the Duchess of Marlborough — who con
tinued and completed the work of de-
moUtion. Her Grace desired a snugger
dwelling, and one to which she should not
have to go up any steps, and the Earl
of Pembroke undertook to build her one.
It was completed in 1735 :
" Her Grace the Duchess Dowager of Marl
borough has 6nished her fine house at Wimbledon ;
her Grace designing to reside there this summer." *
When she saw it, she told the Earl it
looked "as though it were making a
curtsey " ! " But it was the whimsical
old woman's own fault," wrote Horace
Walpole. She desired him not to make
her go up any steps, " 2nd so he dug a
saucer to put it in, and levelled the first
floor with the ground." f
The house was destroyed by fire on
Easter Monday 1785. Earl Spencer con
verted some offices which had escaped the
* Daily Courant, May 10, 1735.
t Walpole to Geo. Montagu, July 22, 1751.

fire into an occasional residence ; and in
1801 a new mansion, designed by Holland,
was completed somewhat to the N.W. of
the former. The new house, now called
Wimbledon Park House, was from about
1827 the residence ofthe Dukeof Somerset;
" and here it was that Sir Joseph Paxton
began life as under-gardener to his brother.
then head-gardener in these grounds."*
Wimbledon Park House, with about 7 acres
of the grounds, is now the property of
Mrs. Bertram Evans.
Wimbledon Park, which Earl Spencer
had increased by the purchase of land on
the Wandsworth side to about 1200 acres,
was in 1836 severed from the Spencer
estates, and sold by Lord Althorp, to
redeem the property from a heavy debt.
Handsome houses have been buUt on
the ridge by H. C. Forde, Esq., —
Hardman, Esq., — Mortimer, Esq., etc.;
butthecentral portion, including a fine lake
of over 30 acres, is still unsold, open, and
very pleasant. The surface is diversified :
there are hiU and dell, trees numerous,
large, and flourishing, the broad lake,
wide prospects, and nightingales and
other singing-birds abound.
Wimbledon Church (St. Mary) adjoins
Wimbledon Park and the site of the old
manor-house, but is some distance from
the vUlage. It stands high, and is seen
far. The old ch. was taken down, except
the chancel, in 1788, and rebuilt in the
manner of a Methodist meeting. That
fashion went out of favour, and in 1833-4,
after lasting just half a century, the barn
gave place to a Gothic church erected by
Messrs. Scott and Moffatt. In 1843 the
ch. was enlarged ; in 1860 the old chancel,
which had been retained, was rebuilt.
The church is of black flint and stone ;
Perp. ; and comprises nave, aisles, chan
cel, and tall W. tower, with thin slated
spire, conspicuous for miles around. The
interior is well fitted and in good order.
Several of the windows have memorial
and heraldic glass. S. of the chancel is
the Wimbledon Chapel, erected, temp.
James I., by Viscount Wimbledon as a
family mausoleum. In the centre is the
black marble altar tomb, with long insc.
of " Sir Edward Cecill, Knight, Lo. Cecill
and Baron of Putney, Viscount Wimble
don of Wimbledon," who "followed the

* Bartlett, Hist, of Wimbledon, p. 70.

WIMBLEDON.

704

WIMBLEDON.

Warres in the Netherlands five and thirty
years, " and commanded at Cadiz : d. 1638.
Over the tomb is suspended an earl's
coronet; around are his helmet and pieces
of armour ; on the walls and floor inscrip
tions to other members of the family, and
to Betensons, etc. On the wall of S.
aisle, obs. marble tablet, erected by the
Fox Club, with relief by Westmacott, of
James Perry, d. 1821, for many years pro
prietor and editor of the ' Morning Chroni
cle.' On wall of N. aisle tablet to Sir Jas.
Allan Park, d. 1838, one of the judges of
the Common Pleas. On the chancel floor
is the gravestone of Sir Richard Wynne,
d. 1649, gentleman of the Privy Chamber
to Charles I. : Wynne accompanied Charles
when Prince of Wales on his romantic
journey to Spain.
In the ch.-yard are many pompous
tombs, the most noticeable perhaps being
the coltlmbarium, erected by Benj. Bond
Hopkins, of Pains Hill and Wimbledon
House, d. 1794, as a family burial-place.
Near the gate is the vault of John Hop
kins, d. 1732, " whose rapacity obtained
him the name of Vulture Hopkins. He
lived worthless, but died worth three
hundred thousand pounds," and has been
immortalized by Pope.* The pyramidal
structure is to Gerard de Visme, d. 1797.
Margaret, Countess of Lucan, 1814, has
an urn on an Ionic column. Altar tomb
on N. of Field-Marshal Thomas Grosvenor,
d. 1851. Altar tomb of Sir Theodore
Jansen, d. 1748, and Sir Abraham
Jansen, d. 1763. Comparatively incon
spicuous is the mont. on N.W. of ch.-yard
of that excellent painter Gilbert Stuart
Newton, R.A., d. 1835.
Three other churches have been built
in Wimbledon. Holy Trinity, in the
Merton Road, is a neat early Dec build
ing, with a bell turret, erected in 1862
from the designs of Mr. J. Johnson.
In 1875 a window of painted glass, the
Transfiguration by Mayer of Munich, was
erected by Madame Lind Goldschmidt
(of Oak Lea, Wimbledon), as a memorial
of Bp. Wilberforce.
Christ Church, on the Ridgeway, is a
good building of Kentish rag and Bath-
stone, early Dec in style, erected in 1859
from the designs of Mr. S. S. Teulon.
The large red-brick building with high-
* Moial Essays, Epistle iii., 1. 85 and 291.

pitched roofs and peaked dormer windows,,
a little E. of Christ Church, and a con
spicuous object from the S.-W. Rly., is
Wimbledon School, a proprietary gram
mar school, established in 1859. St.
John the Baptist, Spencer Hill, and
Immanuel, Copse Hill, are chapels of
recent erection.
The old vUlage is a little distance S.W. of
the ch. and Wimbledon Park, on the hill
top and skirting the south-eastern side of
the Common ; but it has extended its
borders wherever practicable along the
Ridgeway on the road to Kingston and
down the hill towards the Rly. Stat.,
whilst an outlying suburb, New Wimble
don, has grown up on the road to Merton.
Not only in Wimbledon Park, but wher
ever land was to be had, viUa and cottage
residences have been built, and occupied
as soon as finished. Many of these are
large and good houses, and stand in orna
mental grounds. But the old red-brick
mansions with their tall elms and stately
surroundings, and large richly-wrought
iron garden gates, are fast disappearing.
The old viUage too has ceased to be rural
as the place has become populous — and
the population very nearly doubled
between 1861 and 1871. Wimbledon has
no manufactures ; and the trade is local.
The village has its village Club and
reading rooms ; many and good schools ;
on Copse Hill a Cottage Hospital erected
in 1860, and the Morley Convalescent
Hospital, remodeUed in 1874, for the
reception of convalescent patients from
St. George's Hospital. Wimbledon is the
head-quarters of the 11th Surrey Rifles.
The London Scottish Golf Club have their
head-quarters at the Iron-house on the
common, and may often be seen there
engaged in their national sport. And on
the rt. of the rly. a little beyond the
station is the Ari-England Croquet Club
ground — where on any great day may be
seen at once the best croquet lawns and
croquet players.
The glory of Wimbledon is its Common,
a broad, open, gorse-covered heath of
1,000 acres, stretching westward from
Wimbledon Park to Putney Heath, and
including portions of the parishes of
Putney and Wandsworth. It is the
widest and most picturesque of the com
mons immediately contiguous to London,
and happily by the Wimbledon and

WIMBLEDON.

705

WIMBLEDON.

Putney Commons Act of 1871 has been
saved from enclosure and placed under
satisfactory control. Wimbledon Com
mon was in duelling days a noted place
for hostile meetings. Here in May 1789
the Duke of York and Lieut. -Col. Lennox
fought, the Colonel's bullet grazing the
Duke's hair. Hardly less noise was made
by the duels between Sir Francis Burdett
and James Paull, May 1807, in which
both were hurt ; that between Mr.
Clarke and Mr. George Payne, Sept.
1809, in which the latter was mortally
wounded ; and the later ones between
the Marquis of Londonderry and Henry
Grattan, June 13, 1839 ; and the Earl of
Cardigan and Capt. H. Tuckett, Sept. 21,
1840, which led to the trial of Lord
Cardigan in the House of Lords, and did
much to bring the practice of duelling
into disrepute. The usual meeting-place
was by the Windmill, of old so picturesque
a feature of the Common, — now the head
quarters of the Rifle Association. The
duels between Pitt and Tierney, and
Castlereagh and Canning, though com
monly assigned to Wimbledon Common,
were fought on Putney Heath. (See
Putney, p. 478.)
Wimbledon Common was also a noto
rious resort of highwaymen ; and on it
one of the most famous of the fraternity,
Jerry Abershawe, was hanged in chains,
having been first hanged in the ordinary
way on Kennington Common. (See p.
116.) In the last century Wimbledon Common
was several times used for reviews. Here
on July 4, 1799, George III. held a
grand review of the Surrey Volunteers.
Now every July witnesses a much
grander gathering of volunteers on
Wimbledon Common, at the annual
meeting of the National Rifle Associa
tion, which has made the name of
Wimbledon a household word wherever
a volunteer dwells, wherever indeed rifle
shooting is practised or cared for. The
camp is formed in July, but the butts are
permanent, and at certain butts rifle
practice goes on every week-day except
Wednesday all the year round.
'At the south-western extremity of
Wimbledon Common, and about 1 m. W.
of the village, are the remains of an
ancient earthwork called Cassar's Camp,
but known to the natives for many years

pastas The Rounds. Itwas nearly circular,
the only deviation being caused by the
rapid fall of tho ground on the N. The
extreme diameter was 950 ft. ; within the
vallum about 750 ft., enclosing an area
of about 10 acres.* It was surrounded by
a fosse, from 12 to 15 ft. wide, and of an
average depth of 12 ft., and a vallum from
12 to 20 ft. above the ground immediately
beyond it. There are still traces of an
outer vallum, and some years ago there
were traces of outworks on the southern
side. Vestiges of hut-circles have also
been described, but none have been dis
coverable for many years past. Very
different ages have been assigned to the
camp. It has been called British,
Roman, Saxon, Danish. Camden, who
visited it, says that it was then called
Bensbury, and suggests that it might take
its name from Cnebben (Cnebba), the
ealderman and general of iGthelbreht,
who was slain at Webbandune in the
fight with Ceawlin, in 568. Nothing has
been found within the entrenchment to
identify its makers; but the form and
general character were those of a British
work, though it may not improbably have
been occupied by the Romans, the position
being in a military point of view of great
value.f This very interesting work — the finest
and most perfect in the vicinity of Lon
don — after being for years threatened, has
been let for building on, and in spite of the
energetic opposition of residents and
archaeologists, has been wholly destroyed
by the owner, a Mr. Grosvenor Drax.
The vallum has been levelled, the fosse
filled, and building materials placed on
the ground. The outline of the camp
can only be made out by a few trees as
yet unfelled which grew in the trench.
Happily, the threatened building has been
for the present stayed, the Master of the
Rolls having (Dec. 1875), on appeal, made
perpetual an injunction restraining the
builder from using the road over the
Common to the Camp for any other than
agricultural purposes— and there is no

* All the old accounts make the area 7 acres ;
Mr. Tregelles says, " the true area of the enclosure
is about 14 acres : " but within the vallum it is cer
tainly under 10 acres.
t W H Tregelles, in ArchEeol. Journal, vol. xxiv.,.
p. 261 et seq., the best account of the Camp, with'*
a good plan of -it. 45

WIMBLEDON.

706

WrMBLEDON.

other access. There are wide views from
the Camp ; Combe Warren forms a pictu
resque object, and towards the N.W. was a
charming bit of purple heathland. '1 here
is a way across the Camp towards King
ston, but the passenger is now warned
against " trespassing " on either side.
Douglas describes 23 barrows on Wim
bledon Common, " on the left of the high
road from London to Kingston." The
largest were about 27 ft. in diameter. He
opened some in 1786, but found nothing
in them except a " small vessel of dark
brown-greyish earth," about 3 inches
high. Most of the barrows had, however,
been already opened. They were all
afterwards " remorselessly swept away to
clear the roads."*
On the borders of the Common are
several good houses. The most remark
able is Wimbledon House, in the last cent.
the seat of Aid. Sir Henry Bankes. It
was then for some time the residence
of Benjamin Bond Hopkins, whose tomb
is conspicuous in Wimbledon ch.-yard.
From him it was purchased, in 1791, by
M. Calonne, ComptroUer-General of the
Finances, and Minister of State to Louis
XIV., who sold it, 1792, for £15,000
to Earl Gower, afterwards Marquis of
Stafford. From him it was purchased,
1798, by Sir Stephen Lushington. From
1810 to 1814 it was the residence of the
Prince de Conde. In 1815 it was pur
chased by Joseph Marryat, Esq., M.P.
(father of the novelist), and after his death,
1824, was for several years the residence
of his widow, who made the grounds
famous for rare plants and flowers. It is
now the property of Sir H. W. Peek, Bart.,
M.P., who has built handsome conserva
tories, and has restored the house and
gardens to their former splendour. The
house opposite to it was for several years
the residence of Sir Wm. Congreve, of
rocket celebrity.
Li a large red-brick mansion of WiUiam
III.'s time which stood in the rear of the
Crooked Billet, lived for several years, and
here died, July 1, 1782, the minister Lord
Rockingham. The following year, whilst
Secretary of State, Charles James Fox
was its occupant. Shortly after the house
was taken down. A modern villa, Belvc-

* Douglas, Nenia Britannica, fol., 1793, p. 93;
Brayley, Hist, of Surrey, vol. iii., p. 509.

dere, supplies its place, but Rockingham's
house stood more to the W.
Wimbledon Lodge (Miss Murray) on
the S. side of the Common, facing the
Green, was built by Gerard de Visme, Esq.,
and after his death became the property
of his daughter, during whose minority it
was the residence of Earl Bathurst. Miss
De Visme married General the Hon. Sir
Henry Murray ; and Wimbledon Lodge
was their seat as long as they Uved.
In the house W. of Lady Murray's, on
the S. of the Common, lived in the last
half of the 18th cent. William Wilberforce,
whose namesake, nephew, and ward, the
afterwards eminent abolitionist, came in
his 9th year to live with his uncle, and
attend school at Wimbledon. On his
uncle's death, in 1777, the greater WUli am
Wilberforce inherited the mansion, and for
the next ten years made it his residence.
Pitt and WUberforce were at this time
close friends, and Pitt used to be a fre-:
quent visitor at Wimbledon, often riding
down to sleep there — sometimes for the
month together — and having rooms set
apart to occupy whenever convenient.
Wilberforce's Journal contains frequent
entries of these visits, which the statesman
enjoyed as a schoolboy would a holiday.
" One morning," writes Wilberforce, " we
found the fruits of Pitt's earUer rising in
the careful sowing of the garden-beds with
the fragments of a dress-hat with which
Ryder had come down from the Opera."
In later years the house was occupied by
Wm. Van MUdert, Bp. of Durham.
The house on the other side of Lady
Murray's was the residence of Sir Francis
Burdett at the time of his duel with Mr.
Paull, 1807.
At West Side, facing the Green, the
house now occupied by the Hon. Charles
A. Gore, Lyde Brown, an eminent mer
chant and Bank Director, formed a very
celebrated collection of antique sculpture,
which he sold to the Empress of Russia,
in 1787, for £22,000. Unfortunately his
agent failed, and he lost the larger part of
the money, and the news being abruptly
conveyed to him caused an apoplectic fit(of
which he died almost immediately. The
house was afterwards occupied by Robert,
2nd Viscount Melville ; and later by Lord
Lyndhurst. Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville,
who played so prominent a part in politics

WIMBLEBON.

707

WINCHMORE HILL.

at the close of the last and in the early
years of the present century, the friend
of Pitt, Wilberforce, and Scott, Uved in
the next house northward, now called
Cannkaro ; but during his impeachment
and following years retired to a smaller
house which he called Dunira Cottage,
now pulled down. The Duke of Cannizaro
was a subsequent occupant, and it has since
borne his name. It is now the residence
of J. Boustead, Esq.
In the corner house immediately S. of
Mr. Gore's, Home Tooke spent the last 20
years of his life, and there died, March
1812. He gave Sunday parties — dinner
at 4 in the parlour looking on to the Com
mon — and collected many of the remark
able, and some of the less reputable, men
of the day around his board. Tooke
prepared a tomb in his garden, in which
ne desired to be interred ; but his execu
tors disregarded his injunctions, and
buried him in the ch.-yard at Ealing. (See
p. 158.)
The farthest house of the row in
which Home Tooke's stands, as you
turn round to the Camp, now known
as The Keir, was the residence of
Benson, who supplanted Wren as sur
veyor-general and architect of St. Paul's,
erected the mont. to Milton in Westminster
Abbey and inscribed his own name on it,
and was pilloried by Pope.
At Gothic House, in the hollow on
the way to Christ Ch. and Kingston, and
nearly opposite Lord Melville's Dunira
Cottage, lived for awhile Lady Bernard,
the authoress of 'Auld Robin Gray.'
Later it was rented by Captain Marryat the
novelist. In a cottage facing the Common,
near Mr. Gore's, lived William Gifford,
the translator of Juvenal and editor of
the ' Quarterly Review,' not far from
the house of his friend John Murray,
the pubUsher of the Review, and corre
spondent of Byron. At Wood Hayes (J.
Russell Reeves, Esq.), the S.W. extremity
of the Common, Uved Thomas Tooke, the
author of the standard ' History of Prices,'
and other valued works in political
economy. Farther W., beyond Christ
Ch., where is now the Morley-Atkinson
Convalescent Hospital, stood a large house
which was occupied in succession by
John Lambton, 1st Earl of Durham, one
of the framers of the Reform Act, and
Governor-General of Canada, and Lord

Chancellor Cottenham. On Lord Cotten-
ham's decease the property was sold for
building purposes, and the house pulled
down. Wimbledon is now a district of villas —
Elmsley House, Park Side (Earl Beau
champ) ; Wressell Lodge (Sir Bartle
Frere) ; Somerset Lodge (Baroness Dims-
dale) ; Newstead (John Murray, Esq.) ;
The Grange (H. W. Elphinstone, Esq.) ;
Ridgeway (Su- Edw. Pearson, F.R.S.)
In the Park, Edgcombe Hall (Aid. Sir
Thomas Gabriel, Bart.) ; near the cross
roads, Park Lodge (W. R. Greg, Esq.) ;
and a hundred more.
WINCHMORE HILL, Middx., a
district of about 400 houses (there were " 40
or 50" in 1819*) straggling over the emi
nence from which it derives its name,
and the neighbouring Bush Hill, is situated
midway between Southgate and Edmonton,
8 m. from London ; and a stat. on the
Enfield br. of the Grt. N. Rly. Pop. 1780.
Inn, King's Head, by the Green.
The country hereabouts is undulating,
abundantly wooded, and agreeable, and
it has long been a favourite residence
with City men, whose comfortable houses
are seen on every hand. Winchmore
Hill was created an eccl. dist. of Ed
monton par. in 1851. The Cliurch(St. Paul)
is a chapel-like Perp. building, of white
brick and stone, erected in the early days
of the Gothic revival. The E. window
represents, in 12 medallions, the leading
events in the life of St. Paul. Nearly
opposite to the ch. is a small plain brick
Friends' Meeting House; in the burial-
ground adjoining which Ues John Fother-
gill, the celebrated Quaker physician (d.
1780). The chief seat is Bush Hill Park, on
the road to Enfield — a large brick house
standing in a spacious and weU-timbered
park, through which the New River winds
deviously. The grounds are said to have
been originally laid out by Le Notre. It
was the seat of the Sambrooke family ;
afterwards of Wm. Mellish, M.P. for Mid
dlesex ; and lately of J. Moorat, Esq. In
the hall is the " large carving in wood of
St. Stephen Stoned," by Grinling Gibbons,
which, as Walpole records, was " long

p. 33.

Robinson, Hist, and Antiq.. of Edmonton

WINDSOR.

708

WINDSOR.

preserved in the sculptor's own house,
and-afterwards purchased and placed by
the Duke of Chandos at Canons." * This,
he adds, was the piece which Evelyn
found Gibbons engaged upon, and admired
so -greatly that he obtained permission to
introduce the artist and his work to the
king, Charles II. But in this he is mis
taken. That piece was a " Crucifix of
Tintoret."f Bush Hill is said to have received its
name from the hawthorn, sweet briar,
and bramble bushes with which it was
once thickly covered. On it was formerly
held the fair known, as Beggars' Bush
Fair. Sir Hugh Myddleton had a house
at Red Bridge, on the Enfield side of Bush
-HiU, for the convenience of superintending
the New River works. The New River
was here carried across the dell in a
wooden aqueduct, 660 ft. long, jvhich was
regarded as an engineering marvel, and
the memory of which is perpetuated in
more than one engraving. It gave place
in 1784-85 to an earthen embankment.
Sharon Turner, the historian, and
Thomas Hood (' Song of a Shirt') resided
for some years at Winchmore Hill.
WINDSOR, Berks, (in official
documents New Windsor, to distinguish
it from Old Windsor, the subject of the
next article,) is a market town and muni
cipal and parliamentary borough on the
rt. bank of the Thames, 22 m. from
London by road, 21 m. by the Grt. W.
Rly., which has its stat. near the centre
of the town : the Stat, of the L. and S.-W.
Rly. is in Datchet Lane, at the N.E. end
of the town. Pop. of the mun. borough.
11,769 ; of the pari, borough, 17,281 ; of
the parish, 7814. Inns, White Hart,
Castle ; both good houses.
Windsor, the most famous place within
the environs of London, owes all its fame,
as it owed its origin, to the royal Castle
*which towers so proudly over it. Apart
from the Castle, the town is of little
interest. " Windsor," wrote Swift to
Stella, " is a deUcious situation, but the
town is scoundrel." If this were true in
the reign of Anne, it is not true in the
reign of Victoria. But if not scoundrel

* Anecdotes, vol. iii., p. 151.
t Evelyn, Diary, Jan. 18, 1671.

it is commonplace. Ancient, but retain
ing few relics of antiquity ; wealthy, but
with no public building of consequence ;
of late years improved in aspect, and
stiU steadily improving, though with loss
of its old-fashioned picturesqueness, com
monplace respectability is its essential
attribute. Of its origin nothing is told. It grew
up unheeded under the shadow of the
Castle to which the Norman kings re
paired for hunting, or occasionally kept
court.- When they were absent the castle
was still a miUtary stronghold, and had
its governor and garrison, and an outside
population would be sure to find pro
tection and support, and steadily increase
in number and importance. From being
a chapelry of Clewer, Windsor was con
stituted a distinct parish. Edward I. in
1276 made it a free borough, granted it a
market, and in 1302 called upon it to
send representatives to Parliament. This
last was but an occasional requirement ;
but from the reign of Henry VI. (1447)
Windsor continued to send two members
to the House of Commons, tiU 1867,
when the number was reduced to one.
Edward IV. gave the borough a charter
of incorporation, and Windsor has since
been governed by its mayor, aldermen,
and councUlors.
The town consists of a main street
(Church Street, High Street, and Thames
Street), which stretches from the Castle
gates to the Thames opposite Eton, with
which town it is united by a bridge, the
High Street of Eton being in effect a
continuation of that of Windsor. On the
right of this are the church, town hall,
and castle, the latter being now brought
into full view by the removal of the mean
houses that stood at the edge of the castle
ditch. On the left diverge a main
thoroughfare, Peascod Street, and several
smaller streets. Of the public buildings,
the oldest is the Town Hall, erected in
1686 by Sir Christopher Wren, and reno
vated and partially remodelled in 1852
by Mr. PhiUp Hardwick. Not much is
to be said for its architectural merits ;
and the statues of Queen Anne and her
consort, Prince George of Denmark,
which adorn the opposite ends of the
building, are still less to be commended.
The lower part of the building forms a
market-place; the upper is the court-

WINDSOR.

709

WINDSOR.

room, in which are portraits of the kings
and queens of England from Charles I.
to Victoria, the Prince Consort, and
various prelates, statesmen, and local
magnates who have found favour in the
eyes of the corporation. In the Council
Chamber is the memorial bust, by Du rli am,
of Charles Knight, who was born in the
town, and is interred in the Old Burial
Ground — the Gothic gateway to which
was also raised to his memory.
The parish Church (St. John the
Baptist.) was erected in 1822 from the de
signs of Mr. C. Hollis. It is Gothic (Perp.)
of the time ; large. Ught, and commo
dious; and comprises nave and aisles,
chancel, and tall W. tower, in which is a
good peal of 10 bells. The interior was
remodelled by Mr. Teuton in 1869. New
windows were inserted, and several of them
filled with painted glass. Some monts.
from the old ch. may be noticed. Edward
Jobson, d. 15 — . with effigies, in relief, of
himself, wife Eleanor, and their 10 chil
dren. Chief Justice Reeve, d. 1735, with
busts of himself and wife, and various
symbolic figures. John Dugdale, d. 1670,
son of Sir William Dugdale.
Holy Trinity dist. church, Clarence,
Crescent, is a neat Gothic building, de
signed by Mr. Blore, the first stone of
which was laid by the Prince Consort in
April 1842. All Saints Church, Francis
Road, is an early Dec. building of brick
and stone, designed by Mr. A. W. Blom-
field — the first stone laid by the Princess
Royal in Nov. 186*3.
The Roman Catholic ch. of St. Edward
the Confessor, in the Alma Road, erected
in 1868 from the designs of Mr. C. A.
Buckler, is a good transition E.E. build
ing. Windsor has Royal Free and Industrial
Schools, with endowments for appren
ticing boys and providing marriage re
wards for girls ; almshouses ; and a variety
of benevolent institutions. The school
and the large EUzabethan almshouse by
Bachelors' Acre are among the best of the
recent additions to the borough archi
tecture. There is a comfortable little
Theatre; but it is not "that smallest
of playhouses," the Theatre Royal of
Windsor, where " Majesty," in the person
of George III. and his family, " oft de
lighted to recreate itself with hearty
laughs at the comic stars of sixty years

since." * The present house holds about
500 people. The Bachelors' Acre is a
meadow on the W. side of the town,
between Peascod Street and Sheet Street,
vested in the corporation, but reserved
under the Inclosure Act free to the in-.
habitants for playing thereon at all sports
and pastimes. The Bachelors hold an
annual revel there on- the 17th of August,
when prizes are given in various athletic
exercises, and the sports are said to be of
a less boisterous description than in the
olden times. The Obelisk on the Acre
was erected to commemorate the visit of
Queen Charlotte at the Bachelors' enter
tainment on occasion of the Jubilee on
the completion of the 60th year of
George III.'s reign.
For a town of such antiquity, Windsor
has remarkably few old houses, and the
few there are have mostly been modern
ized. Not long ago there was a good old
red brick house behind the ch., which
local fame ascribed to Inigo Jones. The
Free School, the Bank, and a house near
the- bridge are by the same authority
assigned to Sir Christopher Wren, and
some old carved work inside the last to
GrinUng Gibbons.-)- Some houses in, the
main street and Peascod Street may be of
the 17th cent., but all are more or less
altered. An old inn, the Duke's Head,
near the bottom of Peascod Street, is said
to have been the residence of Villiers
Duke of Buckingham.
The inns of Windsor are a feature of the
town, and appear to have always been so.
The town records show that in 1650 there
were no fewer than 70 in the town,
although the Ueences of some had been
suspended. The number is even larger
now, if. all classes of public-houses be
included, and is out of all proportion to
the population. The excess has been at
tributed to the superior attractiveness of
Windsor ale ; it is no doubt mainly due to
the large military element in the popula
tion, and the unusual proportion of male
servants of residents and visitors.
One inn of fame — patronized by Samuel
Pepys as well as Sir John Falstaff — The
Garter, has long ceased to exist. It
* Charles Knight, Passage of a Working Life,
vol. i., p. 45.
t Stoughton, History of Windsor , Tighe and
Davis, Annals of Wmdsor.

WINDSOR.

710

WINDSOR.

stood close to its rival the White Hart,
by the top of Peascod Street, and was in
its palmy days the chief inn of the town.
Mine host of the Garter was a man of
mark, not merely with the personages of
the ' Merry Wives of Windsor,' but in the
eyes of his townsmen generally. One
host, Richard Gallis, was thrice mayor
of Windsor town, and in 1562 M.P. for
the borough; and though there is no
later instance of one being elected to
Parliament, there are many of the land
lords of both the White Hart and the
Garter being chosen mayor. The Garter
is gone, and Ford's and Page's houses
have gone too. We may indeed feel a
doubt whether they were ever more than
airy nothings to which the poet gave a
local habitation and a name: but the
townsmen have no doubt of their objec
tive actuality. Among the houses swept
away at the clearance of the Castle Ditch,
and almost directly opposite the site of
the Garter, was a half-timber tenement
occupied by Mr. Woolridge, chemist, which
was pointed out as Master Ford's house,
-Or as standing on its site ; whilst one at
[ the foot of the Hundred Steps, demolished
in 1860, was said to be Mistress Page's.*
Windsor Castle is the oldest and
beyond comparison the noblest of our
royal palaces. It is equaUy unrivalled in
affluence of associations. For more than
seven hundred years it has beeii the resi
dence of the sovereign. It has been the
* rneeting-place- of regal and national coun
cils ; the scene df many splendid pageants
and courtly assemblies, of illustrious
events and great crimes. Seen near at
hand or from a distance, its appearance
is very striking. Seated on an eminence
which overlooks the broad valley of the
Thames, with the town at its base, the
massive proportions of the castle — its
* Tighe and Davis, Annals of Windsor ; Stough
ton. The tradition, or belief, we suspect, is of very
modern growth. Mr. Charles Knight, who spent
all his early years in Windsor, and was curious
about every Shakspearian association, makes no
reference to it. Speaking of his boyhood, he says,
" I then knew an old house at the corner of Sheet
Street (alas ! it is pulled down) where Mr. and Mrs.
Ford once dwelt, and whence Falstaff was carried
dn the buck-basket to Datchet Mead " (Passages,
vol, i., p. 51.) Elsewhere he places, conjecturaily,
Ford's house in Thames Street and Page's "in the
High Street a little to the N. of the present Town
Hall " : see Local Illustrations to his editions of
the ' Merry Wives of Windsor.'

proud keep and long array of turrets,
walls, and battlements — display them
selves to great advantage, whilst from
towers, windows, and terraces stretches
far away " that incomparable prospect,"
as it was designated two centuries ago,
which fills every one with wonder and
delight when gazed upon for the first
time, and which no familiarity renders
wearisome. The erection of the first castle is com
monly attributed to the Conqueror, who
obtained the manor by exchange from
the Abbot of Westminster (see Windsor,
Old), and made Windsor a residence.
But there is no evidence that his works
were more than additions to already ex
isting buildings. No masonry of his time
has been observed in any part of the
fabric ; and we learn from the Domes
day record that he took possession of a
castle which Earl Harold had rented from
the Cojfifessor. William, we may assume,
recognized its value as a military posi
tion, as we know he did its convenience
as a lodge for hunting in the neighbour
ing forest. He no doubt added to the
buildings and strengthened the defences,
but his works are not likely to have been
of a very solid description. However
that may be, its importance as a strong
hold is shown by his appointing Walter
Fitz-Other to be the Constable of Windsor
Castle — an office that has lasted down to
the present day.
William Rufus made Wmdsor Castle a
prison as weU as a palace, by confining
the Earl of Northumberland and several
of his adherents in it — and the precedent
was only too faithfully followed by suc
ceeding kings. Henry I., "having over
come his enemies, and settled the affairs
of Normandy after his own pleasure . . .
crowned with victory, and then for* the
first time firmly established as king, held
his court at Easter (1106) at Windsor, at
which the nobles of England as well as
those of Normandy were present in fear
and trembling."* In subsequent years
he often kept court here, and in a chapel
which he built he married, 1122, his
second wife, Adeleis, or Alice the Fab,
daughter of Geoffrey of Louvain. Henry
probably built or rebuilt the castle in a
* Capgrave, Book of the Illustrious Henries, by
Rev. F. C. Hengeston, p. 56.

WINDSOR.

711

WINDSOR.

solidcr manner, the oldest parts of it
now remaining being of his time. At the
Christmas of 1126 Henry summoned a
great council of the prelates and nobles
of the realm and the chief tenants of the
Crown, at which it was decreed that
Henry's only daughter, Matilda, Empress
Dowager of Germany, should succeed him
as Queen of England. David King of
Scotland, who was present, was the first
to take the oath of allegiance, and he was
followed by Stephen Earl of Boulogne,
and all the nobles of England, every
one engaging to maintain her succession.
Stephen became king, and held the castle
— the military importance of which was
recognized in the treaty of Wallingford
as second only to that of the Tower of
London. Henry II. Uved much here,
repaired the old and added new buildings,
and, as the Treasury records testify, spent
much money on the vineyards. Here, in
those last gloomy years when his sons
were in open rebeUion, he found a grim
solace according to Fabyan — a somewhat
late authority — in having painted on the
walls of his chamber the figures of an old
eagle with three young ones scratching at
its body, and a fourth pecking at its eyes ;
and when one asked him what the para
ble might signify, the King replied, " The
old eagle is myself; the young birds
betoken my four sons which cease not to
pursue my death, and especially my
youngest son John." When John was
king, Windsor Castle more than once
changed masters. It was from Windsor
Castle that John set out on the 15th of
June, 1215, to meet the Barons assembled
at Runnimede ; and to il he returned
after signing the Great Charter.
In the first year of Henry III. (1217)
the Barons besieged Windsor Castle, but
failed to take it. Many years later (1263)
it had to surrender, but was soon recap
tured by Prince Edward. Henry III. was a
man of decided artistic tastes, and through
out his long reign he appears to have been
occupied in repairing or embelUshing
Windsor Castle or in adding new build
ings. Among these were a stately chapel,
a great hall, and sundry royal chambers.
But he was always hampered by want of
money ; was even reduced to pawn the
best image of the Virgin Mary in the New
Chapel Royal to meet the current ex
penses, and was at last cempelled to bring

the works to an abrupt close. He made
it, however, a very different place to what
it had been hitherto ; and a contemporary
chronicler, Matthew of Westminster, de
clares that Windsor Castle was the most
splendid royal dwelling in Europe.
Both Edward I. and Edward II. were
often at Windsor Castle : held courts and
counsels there ; gave solemn audiences ,-
proclaimed jousts and tournaments ; had
chUdren born and die there. But it was
in the reign of Edward III. that Windsor
Castle attained its greatest splendour. It
was his birthplace — whence his title, Ed
ward of Windsor, frequently used by our
older historians — and he never ceased to
regard it with affection. Much of his
time when in England was spent at
Windsor, holding courts or tourneys, or
engaged in the chase, or the pastime
he liked still better of hawking. His
youngest son, William, was born there ;
there Edward the Black Prince was
married, 1361, to Joan the Fair Maid of
Kent ; and there, 1369, the Good Queen
Philippa died. Very early, Edward, as
we are told by Froissart, who had been in
the service and confidence, first of Queen
Philippa and then of the King himself,
resolved to rebuild the Castle of Windsor,
which of old had been founded by King
Arthur, and to revive in it an order of
Loy al Knights such as Arthur had gathered
about his Round Table. And this double
purpose he in a great measure accom-
pUshed. If he did not wholly rebuild the
castle, he made magnificent additions to
it, and left it, in its majestic outline,
nearly as we possess it. Before his time
the building was confined to what has
since been known as the Lower Ward.
He built the Round Tower, the great
central feature of the castle, and formed
the Upper Ward as the royal dwelUng.
The Rose Tower and other towers of in
ferior fame, are also of his time. He en
larged and enriched, if he did not rebuild,
the chapel founded by Henry III., and he
built arcades and cloisters, a deanery,
treasury, chapter-house, halls, and the like.
John Peynton, Richard de Rotheley, and
Robert de Burnham were successively
his surveyors or clerks of the works at
Windsor, but from 1356 to 1362 the direc
tion of the works was entrusted to William
of Wykeham. William de Mulso was
Wykeham's deputy from 1358, and sue-

WINDSOR.

712

WINDSOR.

ceeded him as chief warden and surveyor
ii 1362. The more important works in
the castle appear to have been executed
between 1359 and 1374, and it must remain
d lubtful therefore to what extent they
ware influenced by the genius of Wyke-
ham, or were due to his successor. The
warrants to the surveyors gave them
ample powers to seize wherever they
might find suitable stone, wood, timber,
coal, lead, glass, iron, or other materials,
and to impress masons, hard-hewers, and
other artificers, necessary for the royal
works. The Lower Ward Edward appropriated
chiefly to his splendid acclesiastical
foundation, the Chapel, or CoUege, of St.
George, with its canons, clerks, choristers,
and poor knights, and for which he craved
special privileges from the Pope because
h ¦ had established it in the place of his
birth. The Upper Ward he created for
the royal dwelling. The Round Tower or
Middle Ward was devoted to knightly
acts, and thus associated with both Upper
and Lower Wards.
The Round Tower was among Edward's
earliest works. Having matured the
scheme of his Round Table, he, in 1343,
ordered the Round Tower in which it
should be held to be constructed with all
possible rapidity. It was made ready in
about ten months, and on Jan. 19, 1344,
Edward III. held the Round Table at
which was inaugurated the newly -founded
Order ofthe Garter. To the festival, not
only the flower of the EngUsh chivalry,
but knights from every part of Europe,
were invited, free passes being sent for aU.
J ousts and tourneys were held, the King
himself taking part, and the whole nobility
of theland being witnesses. Then followed
huntings and hawkings, banquets and
dances, and whatever could grace the
court, or do honour to the visitors. Similar
festivals are recorded in 1 347, 1 348, etc., but
as yet they are not strictly the festivals of
St. George, and though the Round Table
and the 26 knights are there, no mention
is made of the garter. But a few years
later the festival is held on St. George's
Day, and at that of 1351 the knights are
all clad in mantles of blue cloth, powdered
over with garters, and wear the great
collar of the order. The knights, with
the King at their head, proceed to the
chapel where the rites of installation

are performed. Then they assemble about
the Round Table, for the reception of
which the Tower has been built, and hold
solemn conference and banquet. Frois-
sart's narratives of these gatherings are
among the brightest of his vivid pages.
The pride and power of Edward were
shown differently, but even more dis
tinctly, when some years later he had as
his captives in Windsor Castle, John King
of France, and his son, Prince Philip, and
David King of Scotland. Stow relates as
a tradition that it was a remark made by
one of the captive kings that led to the
eastward extension of the buildings. The
three kings were walking on this higher
ground, when the strangers, commending
the situation, judged that the Castle would
have been better built in that place than
where it was, " as it would be more open
to see, and be seen afar off." Edward
approved their judgment, and added
pleasantly that " it should so be, and that
he would bring his castle thither, that is
to say, enlarge it so far with two other
wards, the charges whereof should be
borne with their ransoms : as after it came
to pass." Unluckily for the story, the
Exchequer accounts show that the works
had been in progress many years before
the three kings could have so conversed
together, and were carried on but a short
time after (the ransom notwithstanding),
owing to exhaustion of funds.
Richard II. kept his first regal Christ
mas at Windsor, and was often there
afterwards, especially at the Festival of
St. George, the keeping of which at
Windsor had now become an estabUshed
custom. It was at Wmdsor that Henry
Duke of Hereford (afterwards Henry IV.)
and the Duke of Norfolk made before
the King (April 1398) mutual appeal of
treason, and were assigned trial of arms
at Coventry — a scene which Shakspeare
has dramatized so effectively in the open
ing of his play of King Richard the
Second. Geoffrey Chaucer was appointed
by Richard II. clerk of the works at
Windsor, his chief duty being to superin
tend the repairs of St. George's Chapel,
and his engagement lasting from 1390 to
1393. During the best part of the reign of
Henry V., King James I. of Scotland was
captive here. He was in his 20th year
when brought to Windsor, an age when

WINDSOR.

713

WINDSOR.

enforced confinement is perhaps most
irksome.but the years he spent at Windsor
were the happiest in his long captivity.
He was treated with all respect and kind
ness ; intermingled freely with the noblest
of the land ; engaged in jousts and royal
pastimes ; spent his soUtary hours in study
ing Gower and Chaucer, and imping his
own wings for a poetic flight ; and, what
contributed most of all to sweeten his
later prison hours, as he looked from his
window one May morning, •• to see the
world and folk that went forby," and
Ustened to " the little sweete nightingale,"
singing loud and clear from the green
branches in the garden, casting his eye
down again, he saw, walking under the
tower, " The fairest or the freshest younge flower
That ever I saw methought before that hour."
The effect of this vision, the hopes and
fears it aroused, he has told in not un-
melodious measure in his ' King's Quhair.J
Here it will be enough to say that the
lady, Jane, daughter of the Duke of
Beaufort, a woman who was all her royal
lover described her, became in good time
his wife, shared the honours and the toils
of his throne, strove in vain, though at
the peril of her Ufe, to arrest the hands of
his assassins, and Uved long to mourn his
untimely death. The Round Tower is
commonly said to be James's prison, and
Washington Irving, in his pleasant essay,
('A Royal Poet,') not only adopts the
tradition, but sees in the garden ' ' in what
was the moat of the keep," the very
garden " sheltered blooming and retired "
of the days of James. Not, however, the
Round Tower, but the Earl Marshal's, or
Devil's Tower, at the south-eastern angle
of the Upper Ward, was the state prison,
and doubtless that in which the Scotch
King was lodged.
Henry VI. was born and buried at
Windsor ; and it was for awhile the prison
of his widow. Edward IV. was partial
to the place ; built St. George's Chapel —
the finest ecclesiastical building of its
time — and enlarged and enriched the
College of St. George, in which it was his
desire to merge the recent foundation of
Eton College. By his express directions
he was buried in his chapel, and beside
him, as she prayed, was laid, in 1492, his
queen, Elizabeth Woodville. Beside him

also was laid, perhaps in mockery, the
body (with the head, as Sir Thomas More
has it) of his favourite Lord Hastings
(beheaded June 1483). Henry VII. added
the rich groined roof and choir to St.
George's Chapel ; and liking the place,
removed the chapel of Henry III. in order
to construct a sumptuous tomb for him
self, for which he engaged the artists and
collected the materials, but afterwards
changed his mind and transferred them
to Westminster. Here, in 1506, he enter
tained with great pomp PhiUp of Castile.
The two kings concluded a treaty of peace
and amity, which they swore before the
high altar duly to observe, " kissing the
very cross" — i.e., a cross much prized at
Windsor as having enclosed within it a
piece of the true cross.
In his earUer years, Henry VIII. made
the castle gay with feats of arms and stately
shows, with " active games of nimbleness
and strength," and " cry of hounds and
merry blasts between" chasing "the fear
ful hart of force." He completed the
works about St. George's Chapel, and
built the great gateway to the Lower
Ward. Charles V. of Spain was enter
tained by him, in June 1 522, with huntings,
plays, masques, and banquets. On Sept- 1,
1522, the Consecrated Golden Rose was
deUvered to Henry as Defender of the
Faith with great state and solemnity at
Windsor Castle, by the legate of Pope
Clement VII. In the summer of 1546,
Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, was im
prisoned in Windsor Castle. In early
youth he had been here as an honoured
guest, the friend and companion of the
Duke of Richmond, natural son of
Henry VIII. ; and the contrast was ex
cessively galling to his proud spirit.
" So cruel prison how could betide, alas !
As proud Windsor, where I in lust and joy,
With a Kinges son, my childish years did pass,
In greater feast than Priam's sons of Troy.
Where each sweet place returns a taste full sour.
The large green courts where we were wont to
hove,
With eyes cast up into the Maiden's tower,
And easy sighs, such as folk draw in love." *
He was not long prisoned at Windsor ;
but hardly was he set at Uberty when he
was again arrested, sent to the Tower of
London, and thence to the block (Jan. 21,

* Surrey, Prisoned in Windsor, he recounteth
his pleasure there passed : Poems, p. 17.

WINDSOR.

714

WINDSOR.

1547). Within a week the king died, and
was laid, according to the directions in
his wUl, in the choir of St. George's
Chapel, "midway between the staUs and
the high altar."
Edward VI. was hurried for safety
to Windsor Castle from Hampton Court,
(see Hampton Court, p. 299,) Oct. 6,
1549, by the Protector Somerset, and
a few days after Somerset was arrested
and consigned to the Beauchamp Tower,
preparatory to the Tower of London and
the block. Mary came to Windsor Castle
upon the suppression of Wyatt's insur
rection. Bishops Cranmer, Ridley, and
Latimer were summoned here in the fol
lowing April, to the mock disputations
which were to clear their path to the
stake. A few months later, August 1554,
Mary celebrated with banquets and pa
geantry her hapless marriage with Philip
of Spain, and Philip's installation as a
Knight of the Garter.
Elizabeth has associated her name
more agreeably with Windsor Castle. She
greatly deUghted in the place, built the
new gallery and banqueting-house, laid
out gardens and pleasance, of which all
trace has been lost, and constructed the
North Terrace, which has ever since been
a perennial source of enjoyment. In her
New Gallery there is reason to believe
was played, 1593, the new comedy, devised
at Her Majesty's desire, of the ' Merry
Wives of Windsor,' Shakspeare himself
superintending the performance. During
this visit the Queen employed her spare
hours in translating Boethius' ' de Conso-
latione Philosophise.' She began it on
the 10th of Oct., and finished it on the
5th of November, 1593 : or as Her Majesty's
Keeper of the Records calculated, omitting
Sundays and other holy days, and days
on which she " rode abroad to take the
air, and on those days did forbear to
translate," she was only employed 12
days, and on these only two hours in
translating, so that " the computation fall-
eth out, that in fowre-and-twenty houres
your Majestie began and ended your
translation." *
James I. fortunately employed John
Norden early in his reign to make a sur
vey of the Honour of Windsor. For it
y Richard Bowyer, quoted by Niohols, Prog, of
Queen Elizabeth, vol. iii., p. 564, h.

Norden received £200 in 1608-9, did his
work very carefully, and has left a bird's-
eye view of the castle, a map of the forest,
and 15 plans of the park and "rayles
lying within." These are drawn on
vellum, and enable any one to obtain a
tolerably clear conception of the general
character of the castle and grounds at the
beginning of the 17th cent.* The castle
was then, as Norden writes, " divided (as
it were) into 2 partes, whereof the Upper
part belongeth only to yr Matie and the
Lower for the most part to the eccle
siastical governors and almes knights."
James is described as spending most of
his time at Windsor in the fields and
parks ; but he Tiad some ceremonial fes
tivities, as on the entertainment of his
brother-in-law, Christian IV. of Denmark,
in 1606, the installation of Prince Henry
as Knight of the Garter, three years
earUer, and the reception of the Spanish
ambassador in 1622. In September 1621,
Ben Jonson's ' Masque of the Metamor
phosed Gypsies ' was " presented to King
James" for the third time : "at Burley,
Bever, and no wlast at Windsor." Charles I.
was at Windsor soon after his accession,
and several times subsequently. He pur
posed repairing some of the old and adding
new buildings, but troublous times inter
posed. He came here from Hampton
Court in January 1642, as being, says
Clarendon, " more secure from any sudden
popular attempt," but left in February—
not again to visit it as a free agent. The
castle was taken possession of by the Par
Uament in Oct. 1642 without opposition,
and an attempt to seize it made shortly
after by Prince Rupert was unsuccessful.
The castle was made one of the head
quarters of the ParUamentary generals ;.
St. George's chapel was stript of its rich
plate, and images, vestments, and fittings
were destroyed ; and the soldiers killed
large numbers of the deer in the park
and forest. Charles I. was brought here a
prisoner from Hatfield, July 1, 1647, and
remained till Aug. 16, when he was re
moved to Oatlands. After his execution,
his body was ordered to be buried in
Windsor Castle, "in a decent manner,"
* The originals are in the British Museum,
Harleian MSS., No. 3749. The bird's-eye view of
the castle and one or two of the maps are copied
in facsimile in Tighe and Davis's Annals of
Windsor.

WINDSOR.

715

WINDSOR.

the whole expense " not to exceed £500."
It was brought in a hearse. Feb. 8, 1649,
and the next day, in a bitter snowstorm,
was carried from the great hall, where
the unfortunate monarch had so often
presided in state, to St. George's Chapel,
and there, without any religious ceremony
— the Governor of the castle refusing to
allow Bishop Juxon to read the Burial
Service of the Prayer Book — deposited in
the vault of Henry ATIII. On descending
into the vault a large coffin was found
which was assumed to be that of Henry,
and on its left side the smaller coffin, as
was supposed, of Jane Seymour. On the
right was a vacant space just sufficient
to receive the coffin of Charles. After
the Restoration, Parliament voted a sum of
£70,000 for the removal of the corpse of
the king to a fitting mausoleum which
was to be erected to receive it. Charles II.
took the money, but nothing more was
heard of the erection of the tomb or the
removal of the body. It was said that
the vault was searched for, but could not
be found, and that the proposal to build
the tomb was consequently abandoned :
but Evelyn states distinctly enough the
locality,* and when the Prince Regent
(George IV.) wished the body to be
examined, it was found without difficulty.
Very soon after his restoration, Charles
II. formed the design of renovating the
castle and rebuilding the state rooms in
the modern taste. He seems to have
actually commenced the works in 1663,
but they proceeded fitfully on account of
deficiency of funds. The nominal archi
tect was Sir John Denham, the poet, who
held the office of surveyor-general, whUe
the works were really designed and erected
by Sir Christopher Wren, first as Den-
ham's assistant, and then as his successor.
Chief among the additions made by
Charles II. was the Star Building, so
caUed from a large figure of the star of
the order of the Garter on the N. front.
It extends for 1 70 ft. along the Terrace,
and had on the principal floor a. suite of
17 state rooms, adorned by Verrio in his
most exuberant style. He also renovated
and Verrio decorated St. George's Chapel ;
but all that was done there has been
happily swept away. The restoration of
St. George's Hall was also commenced,
' Diary, June 8, 1654.

but left for completion in a later reign.
Evelyn visited Windsor in 1670, had some
talk with the King, and learnt that the
castle, that is the older part, was " now
going to be repaired, being exceedingly
ragged and ruinous." Already " Prince
Rupert, the Constable, had begun to trim
up the keepe, or high round tower."
Whilst Evelyn was at Windsor " the King
passed most of his time in hunting the
stag, and walking in the parke, which he
was now planting with rows of trees. " *
Besides erecting new buildings and re
storing the old, Charles completed the
terrace begun by Elizabeth by continuing
it around the E. and S. fronts. Outside
the castle he built Cumberland and Cran-
borne Lodges, besides minor structures.
To Verrio he was a munificent patron.
For his performances at Windsor the for
tunate painter received £7000 in money,
the place of master-gardener, and a lodge
in the park (afterwards known as Carlton
House), where he lived in great state. To
adorn the walls of his royal apartments
the King commissioned Sir Peter Lely to
paint the Gallery of Windsor Beauties —
now consigned to Hampton Court.
Wissing's pencil was also much employed
at Windsor.
It was at Windsor Castle that James II.
received with ostentatious pomp and
ceremony Abp. Adda, the Papal Envoy,
July 3, 1687. He fitted up Wolsey's
Tomb House as a Roman Catholic Chapel,
and in a more splendid manner the private
chapel next St. George's Hall. There
Evelyn '• went to heare a Frenchman
preach before the King and Queen;" but
" their Majesties going to masse," he
" withdrew to consider the stupendous
paintings of the Hall, which both in the
art and invention deserve the inscription
in honour of the painter, Signor Verrio."t
A little later (Dec 17, 1688), and the
Prince of Orange was sitting with the
Peers in deliberation on the misguided
King's fate, and sending him recommen
dations where to remove. William III.
was little at Windsor. He preferred
Hampton Court as a residence, and only
came to Windsor occasionally. But he
continued and completed the planting
begun by Charles II., and he laid out the
* Evelyn, Diary, August 28, 1670.
t Ibid., Sunday, Sept. 6, 1685.

WINDSOR.

716

WUNIKSOR.

famous Long Walk., He also contem
plated remodelling the castle, and convert
ing it with Wren's assistance into a regular
edifice in the modern taste. Wren pro
posed to remove part of the S. side of the
Upper Ward, and to raise on the site a
palatial structure having a facade 200
feet long, with a great gateway in the
centre, precisely where George IV.'s Gate
way has since been placed.* Happily the
work was never executed, but the designs
are in the library of All Souls' College,
Oxford. Queen Anne made Windsor her summer
residence, and employed Sir James Thorn-
hill to complete the decorations on ceil
ings and staircases begun by Verrio.
Herself she employed in the manner
described by Swift, " hunting in a chaise
with one horse, which she drives furiously
like Jehu." In Dec. 1703 she entertained
the Archduke Charles, the so-called
Charles III. of Spain, at Windsor. Anne
was popular, and the Corporation (1706)
set up her effigy, at a cost of £40, at the
N. end of their new Town Hall, a cor
responding statue of her consort, Prince
George of Denmark, being placed at the
S. end (1713) by Sir Christopher Wren.
The next two monarchs Uved chiefly
at Hampton Court, and Windsor was
neglected. In the reign of George II. the
royal rooms were let as lodgings " during
the absence of the royal family. "-}¦ When
George III. decided to reside at Windsor
it was found that the castle was so much
out of repair and so inconvenient an abode
for a family that it seemed preferable to
keep it for show and build a plain com
fortable dwelling adjacent. The Queen's
Lodge was accordingly erected (1778),
near where are now the Royal Stables ;
and there, as long as he retained health
and reason, the King and his family lived
in a singularly homely, unostentatious
manner, within daily view of the towns
people, seen by all and knowing every
one. Madame D'Arblay has described
minutely the royal life at Windsor ; and
Mrs. Delany, who lived in a house close
by, where the King would drop in unpre-
meditatedly at any hour, has added many
supplementary touches. On Sunday after -

* Poynter, Essay prefixed to Sir Jeffry Wyatt-
ville's Illustrations of Windsor Castle.
t Pole, Hist, of Windsor Castle, p. 19.

noons the Court used to assemble on the
Terrace, where a couple of military bands
played, and politicians, church digni
taries, naval and military officers, and ex
pectant placemen collected in the hope of
a chance word, or at least a nod of recog
nition from the good-humoured monarch,
who with his queen, children, - and royal
cortege, " moved up and down amidst the
double line of his subjects duteously bow
ing or curtseying " — f or no one decently
dressed was excluded from the Terrace or
the presence of royalty, and none were too
great to mingle with the throng. Mr.
Knight records having (1804) seen Pitt,
when at the summit of power and popu
larity, " waiting among the crowd till the
time when the King and Queen should
come forth from a small side-door, and
descend the steps which led to the level
of the Eastern Terrace. " * George III.
employed James Wyatt to restore and
Benjamin West to decorate St. George's
Chapel ; but their performances, though
costly, were very unsatisfactory, and have
all been swept away. Wyatt also made
various alterations in the castle, and
gothicised after his fashion the north side
of the inner quadrangle, the Star Chamber,
the staircase, etc. ; but most of his work
was removed in the next reign.
George IV. dwelt in seclusion at Windsor,
but to him is due the restoration of the
castle to something Uke its ancient archi
tectural eminence. Externally the castle
had become a mass of incongruities, whilst
the apartments were small, inconvenient,
ill-connected, and quite inadequate to the
requirements of a royal establishment.
The King having in 1823 signified his
desire to make Windsor Castle a suitable
residence for himself and his successors,
the Parliament voted a sum of £300,000
for the proposed improvements, and Mr.
Jeffry Wyatt (afterwards knighted as Sir
Jeffry Wyattville f) was appointed to carry
them out. Wyattville took up his abode
in the castle, devoted the rest of his life
* C. Knight, Passages of a Working Life, vol. i.,
p. 42.
+ Dec. 1828. The architect's elevation and
change of name called forth the following epi
gram : —
" Let George, whose restlessness leaves nothing
quiet,
Change, if he will, the good old name of Wyatt .-
But let us hope that their united skill,
May not make Windsor Castle— Wyattville.1"

WINDSOR.

717

WINDSOR.

to superintending the works, and died in
the Wykeham Tower in 1840. The private
apartments were completed, and occupied
by the King in 1828 ; but the operations
were continued till what was virtually
the reconstruction of the eastern half of
the building was effected. The enlarge
ment of the superficial area was " made
principally within the quadrangle, on the
exterior facing the North Terrace, to
which the Brunswick Tower has been
added, and by converting what were two
open courts in that northern mass of
buUding, viz. the Brick Court and Horn
Court, into the State Staircase and the
Waterloo GaUery." * Rooms were united
and made of sufficient size for all do
mestic and ceremonial purposes, and a
stately corridor 450 ft. long was con
structed giving separate access to the
rooms which had previously been all
"thoroughfare" rooms; additional state
and private rooms were built ; St. George's
HaU was enlarged by adding the royal
chapel to it, and the Waterloo Hall formed.
The exterior was remodelled and rendered
uniform in character ; the Round Tower
was doubled in height, and made the
central feature of the composition ; other
old towers were raised, and several new
towers and a new state entrance erected.
When George IV. died the works were
not nearly finished, but they were con
tinued under WilUam IV. till Wyattville's
scheme was in the main completed. To
effect this ParUament had Uberally fur
nished funds as caUed upon, and before
aU had been accompUshed upwards of a
milUon had been expended.
In the present reign the improvement
of the castle has been carried still farther.
The Prince Consort took great interest in
the building, and most of the recent works
were suggested by him. Chief of these
has been the restoration of the Lower
Ward. The old walls and towers have
been cleared of incongruous modern addi
tions, and under the direction of Mr.
Salvin have put on a uniform and some
what stern mediseval aspect. As already
mentioned, the houses at the foot of the
castle have been cleared away, and the
vast pile is revealed in all its sombre
majesty. St. George's Chapel has been
thoroughly restored; the Wolsey Chapel,
* Wyattville.

or Tomb-house, gorgeously refitted as a
memorial of the Prince Consort ; and the
other buildings mostly renewed.
In the Upper Ward, the Entrance
Hall and State Staircase have been re
built, many of the Royal Apartments
renewed or embellished, and alterations
of various kinds made. Regret may
perhaps be felt at the extent of some of
the alterations, and objections be taken
to the propriety of some of the ' restor
ations,' but having regard to the use of
the castle as one of the principal resi
dences of the sovereign, and the theatre
of state banquets and ceremonials, the
transformation of the interior must be
accepted as a work of necessity ; and
there can be no question that externally,
as a whole, the fabric has gained im
mensely in dignity, grandeur, and pic
turesqueness. The buildings which constitute Windsor
Castle stretch for nearly 1500 feet from
E. to W. along the summit of a spur of
high land, which is cut at its western
extremity by a great bend of the Thames.
The site commands a wide extent of
country, and was at a very early period
made a fortified post. With works at Old
Windsor, it served to watch and control
the highway of the Thames for a consider
able distance. The early works consisted
of embankment, fosse, and mound. Within
and on these the Saxon or early EngUsh
occupants erected their improved though
stiU rude dwellings and defences. These
gave way to the more advanced Norman
works. Earl Harold made it his residence.
How from these rude beginnings the castle
grew up has been told.
Windsor Castle consists of three wards
or courts : the Upper Ward, the eastern
portion, occupied by the royal apartments;
the Lower Ward, the western portion, in
which are St. George's Chapel, the Deanery,
a.nd the Cloisters ; and the Middle Ward,
chiefly occupied by the Round Tower.
The Lower Ward is the oldest part of
the existing castle. It is entered from the
town by King Henry VIII.'s Gateway.
The area is divided by St. George's Chapel,
which, with the Prince Consort's Memorial
Chapel and the Dean's Cloister, extends
along the central line from E. to W. It
is well defended by a wall and several.
towers. None of the masonry is of Nor
man date ; but a subterraneous passage,

WINDSOR.

718

WINDSOR.

rudely hewn through the solid chalk from
an entrance 15 ft. below the surface to a
postern in the outer fosse 30 ft. below the
upper surface, has a Norman doorway at
each end, and the vault of the passage as
far as the buildings above extend is late
Norm, carried on chalk walls. The earliest
masonry, as in the Clewer (or as it is now
called Bell or Caesar) Tower, at the S.W.
angle, and the Garter Tower, the largest
of these early towers, is of the reign of
Henry III. The Garter Tower has been
ably restored by Mr. Salvin, and a wide
and well-formed arch displayed. In the
base of the Clewer or Bell Tower the
prison chamber is still perfect, with a
window and door opening to the fosse. It
is generally said that there is a subterra
neous prison beneath this tower, but search
was made whilst the recent works were in
progress, and none could be found. The
other towers in the Lower Ward are those
known as the Wardrobe Tower, nearly op
posite the Deanery ; the Salisbury Tower,
the official residence of the Chancellor of
the Order of the Garter ; and the Wyke-
ham or Winchester Tower, at the W. end
of the North Terrace, the work of William
of Wykeham.
By the Clewer Tower was the King's
Hall of Henry III. It has been at various
times altered and modernized, and is now
the College Library. It has a fine open
timber roof, of the 15th cent., when pro
bably the Hall and continuous Horse-shoe
cloister were partially rebuilt. Beyond
this was the Royal Kitchen. Still farther,
N. of St. George's Chapel, and following
the line of the N. wall, were the King's
Chambers, completing the Domus Regis
of Henry III. All but a few fragments
of these were removed some years ago. Of
this time are the S. ambulatory of the
Dean's Cloister, which has some good
shafts and mouldings, the Galilee porch
at the W. end of the Memorial Chapel,
and a doorway leading from the cloister.
- St. George's Chapel, erected by Edward
IV., is one of the finest ecclesiastical
buildings of the Perp. period extant.
Some detaUs of an earlier ch. at the E.
end excepted, the building is throughout
of one date, and bears the impress of one
mind. It was, however, at first covered
with a wooden roof, but that was removed
by Henry VII., and the present elaborate
groined roof of stone substituted. Ex

ternally, from the chapel adjoining other
buildings, only the S. front is properly
displayed, but that is impressive though
simple in character. The plan of the
chapel should be observed. It is cruci
form, the short transepts, near the middle
of the building, consisting of Uttle more
than octagonal bays or chantrys, with two
storeys of windows. Similar but smaller
projections are at the angles of the build
ing : all these are divided from the body
of the church by screens, and serve as
monumental chapels.
The interior is very striking. The
walls are panelled throughout, the
windows and doors forming parts of
the design ; the columns spread out into
fan-like tracery and groining, of ad
mirable proportions and studied richness.
The roof is decorated with Edward IV.'s
cognisance, therose en soleil, and the arms
of the Knights of the Garter fuUy embla
zoned. The Choir, divided from the nave
by a screen, is rich, with dark carved oak
stalls of the knights, their helmets, ban
ners, and mantles, suspended overhead,
and all that could be devised to give dignity
to the place where the ceremonies of in
stallation are performed of the noblest
order of knighthood in Europe. Brass
plates at the back of the stalls bear the
names of the knights who formerly occu
pied them, and include a remarkable list
of foreign princes and illustrious EngUsh-
men. On a stone in the centre of the
choir is inscribed the names of those
interred in the Royal Vault beneath:
King Henry VIII. ; Queen Jane Seymour ;
Charles I. Nearer the altar is the entrance
to the vault in which are buried George
III., George IV., William IV, Queens
Charlotte and Adelaide, the Princess Char
lotte, the Princess AmeUa, the Duke of
Kent, the Duke of York, and the Princess
Augusta. _ The great W. window occupies the en
tire end of the nave above the door ; is of
16 Ughts in 5 stages, presenting a pierced
panelling corresponding in style to the
paneUing of the walls. It is filled with
fine old painted glass, and produces a
surpassingly rich effect when the western
sun streams through it. The great E.
window was of similar character, but in
1787-90 the mullions, transoms, and tra
cery were partially removed to allow of
the insertion of a transparent painting of

WINDSOR.

719

WINDSOR.

tho Resurrection by Benjamin West. At
the same time an oil painting by him of
the Last Supper was placed over the altar.
These have, however, been removed ; a
reredos, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott,
substitutedf or the oil painting; the window
frame and tracery restored, and mediasval
glass painted by Clayton and Bell, as a
memorial of the Prince Consort, inserted.
The new window represents in the lowest
tier subj ects from the life of the late Prince ;
in that above it the Adoration of the
Kings as the central picture, with on one
side Old Testament Kings and Prophets,
on the other Saints from the New Testa
ment. The third tier upwards has the
Resurrection in the centre, on one side
Patriarchs and Prophets, on the other
Apostles ; whilst above is the Lord in
Glory with the heavenly hierarchy laying
their crowns before the throne.
The Queen's Gallery (usually called
the Queens Closet), on the N. of the altar,
was originally erected for ladies and dis
tinguished persons admitted to witness
the installation of Knights of the Garter,
and is now occupied by the Queen when
she attends the service in the chapel. It
is lighted by two fine oriel w indows.
Under this gaUery is the tomb of Edward
IV., despoUed of its royal surcoat and
coat of mail, and defaced by the ParUa-
mentary soldiers in 1643, and now only
remarkable for the admirable Gothic iron
screen. This has been usually ascribed
to Quentin Matsys, the famous painter-
smith of Antwerp, but is now with better
reason believed to be the work of the
King's smith, John TresUan. The names
of " Edward IV. and his Queen Elizabeth
WydvUl " are inscribed on a slab within
the tomb, and on the opposite side of the
choir a plain slab bears the name of the
rival King, Henry VI., who was buried
on the S. side of the choir. A little W.
is a black marble slab inscribed Charles
Brandon, d. 1545. This was the Brandon
Duke of Suffolk who married Mary,
widow of Louis XII. of France, and
6ister of Henry VIII.
The chantry chapels beginning from
the E. are —
The Lincoln Chapel, on the S., contains
the magnificent altar tomb of Edward Earl
of Lincoln, Lord High Admiral, and dis
tinguished as a statesman, in the reign
of Elizabeth, d. 1584. It was erected by

his widow ; is of alabaster, with shafts of
porphyry, and has recumbent statues of
the Earl and Countess, with on the sides
of the tomb the effigies in reUef of their 5
sons and 3 daughters. On the W. of the
chapel are the Lincoln arms carved in
alabaster and richly emblazoned. Here
also was buried Richard Beauchamp. Bp.
of Salisbury and first Chancellor of the
Order of the Garter. On the centre of
the arch above are figures of Edward IV.
and the Bp. kneeling on opposite sides of
a crucifix. In a recess opposite the tomb
is chained a black-letter Bible, which has
taken the place of a breviary the Bp.
directed to be placed there to assist
" priestis and ministers of Godis Church,
seying therein theyr divyne servyce, and
for all other that lysten to sey thereby
theyr devocyon," in return for which he
asketh that they will say for him the
" comune oryson." Here also was brought
by Bp. Beauchamp, from North Marston,
Bucks, the remains and shrine of Sir John
Shorne, 1290, whose power over demons
was celebrated in painted windows.
Opposite to this on theN. is the Hastings
Cluipcl, dedicated to St. Stephen by
Elizabeth, widow of William Lord Hast
ings, chamberlain to Edward IV., be
headed by Richard III. 1483, but permitted
to be buried beside the tomb of his master.
The chapel has a groined roof and some
good carving.
Farther on the S. is the small Oxen-
bridge Chapel, founded 1522, by a canon of
that name, and dedicated to St. John the
Baptist. In it is a curious painting in three
divisions of the Preaching of St. John ;
his Decollation ; and Herodias' Daughter
presenting his head to Herod — the persons
being represented in the costume of the
16th century. Corresponding to this on
the N. is the elegant Uttle Aldworth
Chapel, so called from several members
of the Aldworth family being buried in it,
but which is believed to have been founded
by OUver King, Bp. of Exeter 1492, and
of Bath and Wells 1495, and Registrar of
the Order of the Garter, the buUder of
Bath Abbey. Several members of the
King family are interred here.
The S. transept is known as the Bray
Chapel, it having been founded by Sir
Reginald Bray, to whom is ascribed the
beautiful groined roof of the choir, and
who was buried in this chapel. 150J,

WINDSOR.

720

WINDSOR.

without a mont. In the centre of the
chapel is a curious old font. Several
monts. are worth noting. Dr. Brideoak,
Bp. of Chichester, d. 1678, effigy in epis
copal robes and mitre; crozier by side.
Giles Thompson, Bp. of Gloucester, d.
1682; coloured bust. Sir Richard Wortley,
d. 1603, mont. with some good carving.
Tablets to Dr. Jones, Bp. of Kildare, d.
1 804 ; Baron Clotworthy, Lord Langf ord,
d. 1825 ; Henry Emlyn, F.S.A., architect,
d. 1815. Beneath a black marble slab
is interred the learned theologian and
controversialist, Daniel Waterland, D.D.,
d. 1740.
The N. transept, called the Rutland
Chapel, was founded by Sir Thomas
Sylliiiger (St. Leger) to contain the
remains and tomb of his wife. Anne
Duchess of Exeter, sister of Edward IV. ;
their effigies, kneeUng before a crucifix,
are on a brass on the wall. Mont, with
recumbent effigies of Sir George Manners,
Lord Ros, d. 1513, and wife Anne,
daughter of Sir Thomas and Lady
Syllmger, and niece to Edward IV. Brass
of Robert Honeywood, Canon of Windsor,
d. 1 522, effigy kneeling before the Virgin
and Infant Saviour ; St. Catherine stand
ing by. Marble tablets to Dr. Theodore
Aylward, d. 1801, organist of St. George's
Chapel, Gresham Professor of Music, and
of some note as a composer ; Major R. C.
Packe, killed at the Battle of Waterloo.
At the S.W. angle is what has hitherto
been' known as the Beaufort Chapel, from
its containing the tombs of Charles
Somerset, Earl of Worcester, 1526, who
founded the chapel, and Henry, 1st Duke
of Beaufort, 1699 ; but these were re
moved in 1874 and placed with the other
family monuments in Badminton church.
The Beaufort Chapel has been converted
by the Queen into a memorial chapel of
her father, Edward Duke of Kent. The
tomb, designed by Sir G. G. Scott, is a
sarcophagus of alabaster resting on a
broad base of dark-coloured marbles, and
surmounted with a recumbent effigy of
the Duke by Mr. J. E. Boehm.
The corresponding chapel at the N.W.
angle, of old the Urswick Chapel, is the
memorial chapel of the Princess Char
lotte, d. 1817. In it is the costly but un
satisfactory mont. to the Princess, raised
by public subscription, and executed by
Matthew Cotes Wyatt. On a bier, at the

corners of which are weeping attendants,
lies the body of the Princess, whose
beatified spirit is represented rising in a
golden light heavenwards, led by two
angels, one of whom bears her infant.
The intention is good, the chiseUing skil
ful, but the sentiment and treatment
border too closely on the dramatic, and
the mont. is at best but a feeble reflex of
the sorrow of a mourning nation.
Near the cenotaph of the Princess
Charlotte is a memorial of her husband,
Leopold I., King of the Belgians, erected
by the Queen. The recumbent statue of
Leopold is from the chisel of Miss Durant,
and is esteemed an excellent likeness ; a
merit which was allowed to the portrait
of the Princess Charlotte in the ascending
figure in her mont. But the mont. of
Leopold has an air of calm dignity and
propriety which cannot be ascribed to
that of the Princess.
Near the Aldworth Chapel is a grace
ful memorial " erected by Queen Victoria
as a tribute of respect and affection to
her beloved aunt, Mary Duchess of
Gloucester, a.d. 1859." The Duke of
Gloucester and members of his family
are also commemorated. The tomb is of
white marble and serpentine, designed by
Sir G. G. Scott, and decorated with bas-
reliefs by Theed, representing the Acts
of Charity — ' Clothing the Naked,' ' Giving
Bread to the Hungry,' ' Relieving the
Wanderer,' 'Visiting the Sick.' In tbe
choir is a tablet to Princess Louisa of
Saxe Weimar, niece of Queen Adelaide,
who died at Windsor in 1817.
On the S., nearly opposite the Chapter
Room, is a colossal marble statue by
Sevier of Field-Marshal Earl Harcourt,
d. 1830, who is habited in field-marshal's
uniform, and the robe he wore at the
Coronation of George IV., as the verger
carefully informs visitors. Near this is-
a tablet to Lieut.-General Elley, K.C.B.,
and M.P. for Windsor, d. 1839, a good
and gallant soldier, who rose from the
ranks to one of the chief places in the
service. St. George's Chapel is open to visitors
every week-day from 12 till 4 : entrance
by the S. door. " The officers of the chapel
are forbidden to demand any gratuity."
Immediately E. of St. George's Chapel
is the Albert Memorial Chapel, known
till recently as the Wolsey Chapel, or.

WINDSOR.

721

WINDSOR.

Tomb House. The chapel was built, or
rebuilt, on the Unes of an earlier chapel,
by Henry VII., with a view to its being a
burial-place for himself and his successors ;
but, as already mentioned, he changed his
mind, erected instead the splendid chapel
at Westminster, and left this incomplete.
In the next reign Wolsey obtained a grant
of it, completed the chapel, and com
menced the erection in it of a magnificent
tomb for himself or his master — it is not
quite clear which. His fall put a stop to
the works, and during the Long Parlia
ment the chapel was dismantled, the
statues on the tomb broken for the metal,
and the contents sold for £600. The only
vestige of the tomb left was the massive
black marble sarcophagus, which lay
neglected tiU 1805, when it was appro
priated as the tomb of Nelson. Charles I.
was to have been reinterred in this chapel,
which was to have been his memorial;
but nothing was done towards carrying
out the proposal. By James II. it was
converted into a Roman CathoUc chapel,
and a mob demolished the windows and
decorations. From his abdication it was
unused, except for awhile in the reign of
George IL, when the Free School was
kept in it. George III. caused a crypt to
be constructed beneath the chapel as a
burial-place for himself and family, and
the chapel was now designated the Tomb
House. But the entrance to the vault
was made in St. George's Chapel, and the
Tomb House was left as before, empty
and unadorned, and only used as a robing
room at the installation of a Knight of
the Garter. Thus it remained until Her
Majesty selected it for restoration and
decoration by herself and her children as
their tribute to the memory of the
lamented Prince Consort.
To Sir Gilbert Scott was entrusted the
restoration of the chapel and the general
direction of the works, the Baron Triqueti,
acting in conjunction with the architect,
having charge of the decorations. After
having been over ten years on hand, the
chapel was completed in 1875, nothing
that care and thought and the most Uberal
expenditure could supply having been left
undone to render it worthy of its pur
pose. Every portion of the interior is
covered with sculpture, mosaic, or other
artistic decoration in some rich and costly
material, and it is undoubtedly the most

sumptuous work of the kind in England,
if not in Europe. The chapel is com
paratively small, but lofty, and has an
apsidal chancel. The style is of course
Perp. The nave is of 5 bays ; and there
are windows in the chancel — all filled
with painted glass by Clayton and Bell.
The groined roof, which is new, is entirely
covered with mosaics executed by Salviati
from designs by Clayton and Bell, those
over the apse being symbolical of the
Passion, those over the nave referring to
characteristics ofthe Prince. The floor is
a rich mosaic of coloured marbles. The
windows of the apse, each of 4 lights, and
divided by transoms into 3 stages, contain
Scriptural subjects classed under ' The
Garden of Eden,' ' The Garden of Geth
semane,' ' The Passion ' (this is the central
window), ' The Garden of St. Joseph,'
' The Garden of the Blessed.' The nave
windows illustrate the genealogy of the
Prince Consort by portraits and heraldic
bearings. The blank window at the W.
end is filled with mosaics, by Salviati, of
the sovereigns and more distinguished
persons who have borne a leading part in
the history of Windsor Castle.
The most original decorative feature is
the series of pictorial tablets, by Baron
Triqueti, which fill the panels or wall
spaces beneath the windows. These are
15 in number, the larger about 11 ft. wide
and 9 ft. high, and are executed by in
laying variously coloured marbles and
spars upon a slab of white SiciUan marble,
coloured and dark cements being em
ployed where deemed necessary to give
firmness to the outUne or depth to the
shadows. The process, the invention of
Baron Triqueti, is a revival and extension
of the old Florentine tarsia work, and as
thus developed gives much of the full
ness, variety, and breadth of painting,
while it promises to be as lasting as the
walls on which it is executed. The tablets
are set in a frame of mosaic, with iUus-
trative rilievi, and over each tablet is a
medallion, executed by Miss Durant, of
the Prince or Princess by whom the tablet
was presented. The tablets in the nave
represent subjects from the Old Testa
ment, chosen as illustrative of excellences
or attributes of the Prince ; those in the
apse depict the Passion of the Saviour.
The tablets on the S. side of the nave,
beginning at the W. end, represent —
46,

WINDSOR.

722

WINDSOR.

' Daniel in the Lion's Den,' with the motto,
" Fortitude ; " ' Moses blessing the Chil
dren of Israel,' the motto, " Steadfastness
and Truth ; " ' Return of Abraham with
Isaac from the Offering,' motto, " Duty
and Obedience;" 'Joseph made Viceroy
over Egypt ; ' ' Jacob on his Death-bed
Blessing his Children.' On the N. wall,
commencing at the W., are — ' Nathaniel
in his Garden, Praying,' the motto, " Sin
cerity ; " ' David in the House of the
Lord,' harp in hand amidst the musicians
he is instructing, motto, " Eloquence and
Harmony ; " ' Solomon in all his Glory,'
receiving gifts from the kings of the
earth, motto, " Wisdom and Science ; "
' Jehoshaphat sending Teachers to Judah ;'
' Jerusalem Mourning over Josiah. ' Be
tween the tablets are marble riUevi of
prophets and teachers.
The tarsia tablets in the apse depict
the Entombment. In the centre is a
costly reredos, designed by Sir Gilbert
Scott and executed by Baron Triqueti.
On a base of coloured marbles and ala
baster are three panels with bas-rehefs
in SiciUan marble of the Resurrection ;
above, are elaborately carved canopies;
and over all, a large Greek cross, studded
with agates and malachite.*
The sarcophagus of the Prince, the
central object of the chapel, stands in
the midst of the nave, close to the steps
of the apse. It is of the usual altar- tomb
form, and bears a recumbent statue of
the Prince Consort, habited in a full suit
of armour, with the insignia of the Order
of the Garter. The slab on which the
statue rests is supported by angels; in
niches on the sides are statues of the
Virtues, at the ends are Mourners. Around
is the insc. : "Albert Prince Consort : born
August xxvi., mdcccxix : died December
xiv., mdccclxi. Buried in the Royal
Mausoleum at Frogmore. I have fought
the good fight, I have finished my course."
And thus we read that this splendid tomb
is an unreality : the sarcophagus an empty
show. Visitors are allowed to see the Chapel
on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays,

* The tablets are well illustrated in * The Triqueti
marbles in the Albert Memorial Chapel, Windsor :
a series of (117) photographs executed by the Misses
Davidson and dedicated by express permission to
the Queen,' folio, 1876.

from 12 till 3 o'clock. Admission is by
tickets only, which can be obtained at the
office ofthe Clerk of the Works at Windsor
Castle. " No more than 200 tickets will
be issued for each day." The entrance
to the chapel is in the covered way lead?
ing to the Cloisters, at the E. end of St.
George's Chapel.
On the N. of the Albert Memorial
Chapel are the Dean's or Great Cloisters,
a work of much beauty, built for Edward
III. by Robert of Burnham, before William
of Wykeham was appointed Clerk of the
Works. The arches are particularly fine.
The S. wall is interesting as the only
fragment left of Henry III.'s Chapel. On
this wall is a portrait of Henry III. wear-
ing his crown, executed, as an Exchequer
record shows, by the monk WUliam of
Westminster in 1248. It was discovered
on clearing away the plaster in 1859.
The lower part of the figure was destroyed,
but the head is tolerably perfect. In
these cloisters are several tablets to the
memory of Military Knights.
The large building E. of the Dean's
Cloisters is the Deanery, erected by Dean
Urswick in 1600, and bearing on the front
his name and arms. It contains several
handsome rooms. The Garter Room, in
which Knights of the Garter robe at in
stallations, contains a curious old screen,
on which are emblazoned the arms of
Edward III., and a large array of subse
quent knights. Behind the Deanery is
the Winchester Tower, built by William
of Wykeham, and for a time his residence.
The inscription, Hoc fecit Wykeham,v!as
cut by direction of Sir Jeffry Wyatt
ville. A passage at the N.W. corner of the
Dean's Cloisters leads to the Canons' or
Inner Cloisters, of much less interest.
Here are the Canons' residences and
Library. A narrow passage on the N.
leads to the castle wall, and by a flight
of stone steps to a formidable looking
postern gate, which opens on to the famous
Hundred Steps, the deUght of aU Windsor
boys. The steps, really 122 in number,
wind round the slope of the hill to
Thames Street, and are the shortest way
between the interior of the castle and the
L. and S.-W. Rly. Stat. They are closed
at sunset. A passage on the 1. leads by
a good E.E. doorway to the N. of St.
George's Chapel, where on the outside of

WINDSOR.

723

WINDSOR.

one of the canon's houses may be seen
the few remaining traces of the Domus
Regis of Henry III. mentioned above.
The Middle Ward Ues E. of the Lower
Ward, and between it and the Upper
Ward. It is almost filled by the Round
Tower, built by Edward III. to contain
the Round Table. The mound on which
it stands is entirely artificial, being formed
of carried chalk, and was probably the
mound of the original British or Roman
fortress. That it was older than the
tower, and that the tower was adapted
to it, is evident, the tower being, not a
perfect circle, but flattened on the E. side
where the mound is flat : its greatest
diameter is 102 ft., the smallest only 93.
Further, as Mr. Parker has pointed out,
whilst the roUs contain the weekly ac
counts of expenditure for building the
tower, there is no entry for digging the
moat or forming the mound.
Though commonly spoken of as the
Keep of the Castle, the Round Tower was
not, as we have seen, buUt for defensive.
purposes, and it may be doubted if it was
at any time strong enough to withstand a
determined assault. It was buUt in great
haste, of hard chalk obtained from the
royal quarries at Marlow and Bisham,
faced with a better stone from Wheatley
(Oxon), some stone which the Dean of
St. Paul's had collected for his own build
ing operations, but was persuaded to give
up to the Kiiig, and three ship-loads
brought direct from Caen. So impatient
was the King, that he sent out Warrants
to all parts of the country to impress
masons and skilful artificers, and for a
while several hundred workmen were
actually employed. Edward's Round
Tower was low and dumpy, its height
being less than half its diameter. Wyatt-
viUe nearly doubled its height, and added
the Watch Tower or Flag Turret— an
alteration that has greatly improved
the picturesque character of the castle,
and rendered it much more conspicuous
and imposing as a distant object. Wyatt-
viUe found the old foundations to be too
rotten, and the walls too weak, to bear
the additional height ; he therefore laid
down a new foundation of solid concrete,
upon which he raised a brick waU within
the original stone waU, and upon that
carried up the additional storey, which is
quite unsupported by the old tower. New

part and old, he faced alike with flints,
so that the whole, though of such different
character and dates, looks to be the work
of one hand. The Round Tower is now
80 ft. high from the top of the mound ;
the Watch Tower 25 ft. higher : from the
level of the Quadrangle the total height
is 148 ft. From it a view of vast extent
is obtained, embracing, it is asserted, 12
counties. But wide as it is, wanting the
contrast of the neighbouring trees, the
prospect is far less beautiful than that
from the Terrace. But from no other spot
can so good an idea of the plan of the
castle, and the character and connection
of the several buildings, be obtained.
When the Queen is at Windsor, the Royal
standard floats over the Round Tower — a
flag 36 ft. long and 27 wide, but dwarfed
by the huge structure. Permission to
ascend the Tower may be obtained on ap
plication on the days the State Apart
ments are open.
The Round Tower is usually assumed
to be the same as the Rose Tower, and is
so described by the authors of the Annals
of Windsor. But they were clearly dif
ferent structures. The Rose Tower, there
can be Uttle doubt, was the octagonal
tower at the S.W. angle of the Quadrangle
of the Upper Ward— S.E. of the Round
Tower, and between it and George IV.'s
Gateway. The name, La Rose, was given
from its decoration with Edward's badge,
the rose en soleU. The tower was so much
altered by Wyattville as to retain Uttle of
its original character; but the rose is still
conspicuous on the central bosses of the
vaulting in the two lower chambers — the
only rooms left of the original fabric
The tower was an important portion of
the Royal apartments, and against one of
the great festivals, 1366, the exterior was
made resplendent with colours and gold.
The exact nature of the decoration is not
told, but the painter, WUliam Burdon,
was with his assistants at work upon it
for 123J days, and consumed 67 lb. of
white lead, 18 lb. of red lead, 12 lb. of
green paints, 28 lb. of vermilion, and
1400 leaves of gold, besides oil and var
nish. This was the Maiden's Tower of
Surrey's days.
The entrance from the Middle to the
Upper Ward is by what is miscalled the
Norman Gateway on the N. of the Round
Tower, but which is reaUy the work of

WINDSOR.

724

WINDSOR.

WUliam of Wykeham (1356-62). A pas
sage on the 1. leads to the Terrace.
The Upper Ward, the eastern division
of the castle, comprises the site added by
Edward III., and contains the royal apart
ments — the private as well as the state
rooms — which are built about three sides
of a great quadrangle, the Round Tower
with its outworks occupying the fourth,
whilst the Terrace is carried round the
three outer sides of the royal buildings.
Broadly speaking, the State Apartments
occupy the northern side of the Quad
rangle, the Queen's Private Apartments,
including the royal drawing, dining, re
ception, and thronerooms, picture gaUeries,
private chapel, and the Uke, the eastern
side ; and the more strictly private apart
ments, the rooms of the officials, etc., the
southern side. On the S. side, between
the York and Lancaster Towers, is the
principal entrance to the Quadrangle,
George IV.'s Gateway, which opens upon
the Long Walk, and commands a full
view of it from end to end. Directly
facing this on the N. side of the Quad
rangle is the State Entrance to the royal
apartments, a boldly projecting carriage
porch, which opens into a spacious vesti
bule, the new state staircase (designed
by Mr. Salvin), and N. corridor. The
Queen's Private Entrance is a projecting
porch, under the Oak Breakfast Room, at
the S.E. angle of the quadrangle. In the
centre of the quadrangle formerly stood
the equestrian statue of Charles IL, which
" Toby Rustate, a page of the back stairs
... a very simple, ignorant, but honest
and loyal creature,"* presented to his
royal master. It was removed by George
IV. to its present position at the W. end
of the quadrangle. The statue was the
work of Josias Loach Stada, who has put
his name on the horse's hoof ; the pedestal
was carved by Grinling Gibbons. " The
fruit, fish, implements of shipping, are aU
exquisite ; the man and horse may serve
for a sign to draw a passenger's eye to
the pedestal." f The statue cost Rustate
£1000. The quadrangle is not open to
the public, but it may be very weU seen
from* the passage behind Rustate's statue.
The quadrangle and the whole exterior of
the buildings -of • the Upper Ward -were

* Evelyn, Biary, ;-July^24, 1680.
t Walpole, Anecdotes, vol iii., p. 151.

remodeUed and raised a storey by Wyatt
ville, and now present a tolerably uniform
architectural character. Objections may
be raised to the style as a whole, to the
intermixture of leading features and
details of widely different periods and
purpose ; but with aU its faults the royal
ward proclaims its palatial character, and
possesses a breadth and majesty which
none of our other palaces approach.
The State Apartments, situate in the
Stuart BuUding, the Star Building of
Charles IL, are open gratuitously to the .
public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays,
and Fridays, when Her Majesty is not in
residence. Visitors may obtain tickets in
Windsor at the Lord Chamberlain's Office
near the Winchester Tower, at the liead of
the Lower Ward of the Castle, or of Mr.
W. F. Taylor, bookseller, 13, High Street.
These tickets are only available for the
day on which they are issued. Tiie hours
for admission are from 11 to ifrom April
to October, and from 11 to Zfrom Nov. 1
to the end of March. Tickets may also
be obtained in London from Messrs. Col-
naghi,' li, Pall Mall East; Mr. Mitchell,
33, Old Bond Street; and Mr. Wright,
60, Pall Mall. These ticltets are available
for a week ; and, like those obtained at
Mr. Taylor's, admit the visitor two hours
earlier than those issued at the Lord
Chamberlain's Office, The Queen's Private
Apartments can only be seen in the ab
sence of the Court, by a special order
from the Lord Chamberlain. The State
Apartments are entered by a Gothic
porch at the N.W. corner of the Quad
rangle, before you to the rt. on passing
through the Norman Gateway. The
apartments are approached by a narrow
staircase, and are shown in the foUowing
order : —
1. The Queen's Audience Chamber. The
ceiUng, pamted by Verrio, exhibits Catha
rine of Braganza, as Britannia, seated in
a car and attended by Ceres, Flora, and
other goddesses, proceeding to the Temple
of Virtue : other ceilings we shall come
to are about equal to this in intelUgence.
The walls on three sides are hung with
rich Gobelin tapestry, iUustrating the life
of Esther. Portraits, of little value, but
in exquisitely carved frames by Gibbons,
of — Mary Queen of Scots, Fr. Clouet, her
execution represented in the background.
The father and grandfather of William

WINDSOR.

725

WINDSOR.

III., Frederick and William, Princes
of Orange, both fuU-length, by Hont-
horst. 2. The Vandyck Room.. This, to the
lover of pictures, is the most attractive of
the rooms shown to the public. The por
traits by Vandyck are more in number
and finer than are brought together in
any other room in Europe. There are no
.fewer than 22 of them, and- several are of
historical value, whilst others are admi
rable examples of his style. They are — 1.
Henri, Comte de Berg ; half-length, oval ;
baton in hand. 2. Charles I. seated in
robes of state, 1. hand on table, on which
are crown and sceptre ; Queen seated on
his 1., Prince Charles standing on rt. A
large and famous picture, and worthy of
its fame, but somewhat injured by the
restorer. 3. Mary Duchess of Richmond,
only daughter of George ViUiers, 1st Duke
of Buckingham; full-1., as St. Agnes,
with the lamb and palm-branch. From
the coUection of Charles I. 4. WilUam
KilligrewandThomas Carew, poets ; dated
1638, the year before Carew's death ; half-
length, seated figures. Carew reading; a
good head ; KiUigrew looks a debauchee.
5. Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. ;
full-1., in low white satin dress ; counte
nance elegant, sensuous, intellectual ;
crown on table on rt. This picture hung
in Charles I.'s bedroom. 6. Lady Venetia
Digby, whom Clarendon describes as " a
lady of extraordinary beauty, and of as
extraordinary fame ; '' fuH-L, seated ;
Cupids holding a wreath over her head ;
Calumny bound at her feet : a picture
in Vandyck's most grandiose style, and
painted with more dash and vigour than
usual. 7. George and Francis VUUers, sons
of the 1 st Duke of Buckingham ; brilUantly
painted ; belonged to James II. 8. Thomas
Prince of Carignan ; f-1., in armour, with
commander's baton : a duplicate at Berlin.
9. Queen Henrietta Maria; half -1. , profile ;
painted for the sculptor Bernini to model
from at Rome ; formerly in the coUection
of James II. 10. Beatrice de Cusance,
Princess of Cantecroix ; fuU-1.^ charm
ingly painted. 11. Children of Charles I.
One of Vandyck's great works ; signed
and dated 1637 ; a copy is in the Museum,
Berlin. In centre Prince Charles with his
hand on the head of a great mastiff ; on
his right are the Princesses Elizabeth and
Mary ; on his left the Princess Anne.

Prince James is sitting on a stool, only
partially dressed. This picture hung in
Charles I.'s breakfast-room at Whitehall.
12. The head of Charles I., three times
on one canvas — front face, profile, three-
quarters — painted for- the guidance of
Bernini the sculptor, in executing his
bust for Whitehall : the melancholy head
which is stamped on the memory as that
of the unfortunate king. 13. Queen Hen
rietta Maria ; full face, painted for Bernini
to model from. 14. Lucy Countess of
Carlisle; full-1. 15. Sir Kenelm Digby,
seated by table on which is his sphere ;
rt. hand on breast. 16. Charles II. at the
age of 11 ; in armour, pistol in rt. hand.
Belonged to James II. 17. Vandyck ;
painted when young ; very fine. 18. Q.
Henrietta Maria; full-length and very fine.
19. Prince Charles (afterwards Charles
IL), at the age of 9, the Duke of York
(James IL), and the Princess Mary ; full-
1., standing, with two spaniels on the
floor ; dated 1638. 20. Mary Countess of
Dorset ; seated on a bank, rt. hand on
lamb, 21. Charles I. on a grey horse,
in armour, with broad falUng ruff ; 1.
hand resting on a truncheon. The Due
d'Epernon, Master of the Horse, is looking
up to the King, whose helmet he is hold
ing. The King sits his horse with con
summate ease and dignity ; and the horse
is painted with great spirit. The picture,
12 ft. by 9 ft., one of Vandyck's most
important works, was painted in the
maturity of the artist's powers, and is
executed in his best manner. A dupUcate
or copy, of somewhat smaUer dimensions,
is at Hampton Court, and there are repe
titions at Warwick Castle and Lamport
Hall. This copy was sold in the Common
wealth time to Rem^e van Leemput, the
painter, for £20Q, but recovered through
a lawsuit by Charles II. 22. Portrait ;
f-length ; said to be of Jan Snellinck, a
friend of Vandyck, but this more than
doubtful. 3. The Queen's State Drawing Room ;
also known as the Zuccarelli Room, from
its containing 9 large scenic landscapes by
that painter. It also contains portraits
of the first three Georges ; Henry Duke
of Gloucester, youngest, son of Charles I. ;
and Frederick Prince of Wales.
4. The State Ante-Jloom is chiefly re
markable for the beautiful carvings of
fish, fruit, flowers, and birds by Gri;

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726

WINDSOR.

Gibbons. The celling is decorated with
a Banquet of the Gods by Verrio.
5. The Grand Staircase forms, with the
vestibule, recently remodeUed by Mr.
Salvin, a splendid and effective feature' of
the palace. Obs. in the recess on the first
landing Cliantrey's colossal marble statue
of George IV.
The Grand Vestibule is a noble hall,
47 ft. long, 28 ft. wide, and 45 ft. high,
lit by an octagonal lantern. It contains
some pieces of sculpture, and several
suits of 16th and 17th cent, armour, and
miUtary trophies and weapons decorate
the walls. Here too is Boelum's'&ne statue
of the Queen with her favourite collie by
her side.
6. The Waterloo Chamber, a magnificent
room, 98 ft. long, 47 ft. broad, and 45 ft.
high, used for state banquets. By day
the room is Ughted by a lantern of ground
glass, at night by a railge of sunUghts.
On the walls are portraits of the sove
reigns, statesmen, and generals who bore
a prominent part in the war which ter
minated in the victory of Waterloo. The
portraits, 38 in number, were (with the
exceptions named) painted by Sir Thomas
Lawrence, by command of George IV.
Taking them in their order, they are —
1. Due de RicheUeu ; 2. General Overoff ;
3. Duke of Cambridge ; 4. Earl of
Liverpool; 5. WilUam IV. (by Sir D.
Wilkie) ; 6. George III. (Sir W. Beechey);
7. George IV. ; 8. Visct. Gastlereagh-;
9. Duke of York ; 10. Baron Humboldt;
11. George Canning ; 12. Earl Bathurst ;
13. Count Miinster; 14. Cardinal Gon-
salvi ; 15. Prince Hardenberg ; 16. Wil
Uam III. of Prussia; 17. Francis I. of
Austria ; 18. Alexander I. of Russia ;
19. Count Nesselrode ; 20. Pope Pius VII.';
21. Count Capo d'Istrias; 22. Prince
Metternich; 23. Visct. Hill (H. W.
Pickersgill) ; 24. Charles X. of France ;
25. Prince Schw'artzenberg ; 26. Archduke
Charles of Austria ; 27. Sir Thos. Picton ;
28. Due d'Angouleme; 29. Duke of
Brunswick-; 30, Leopold I., King of the
Belgians ; 31. Sir James Kemp (Pickers-
gill) ; 32. Count Platoff; 33. Duke of
Wellington ; 34. Prince von Blucher ;
35. Count Alten (Reichmann) ; 36. Mar
quis of Anglesea ; 37. Count Czernitshoff ;
38. WiUiam Prince of Orange. Obs. the
carvings by Gibbons.
7. The Presence Clw/mber, or Grand

Ball Room, a very stately apartment, 94
ft. long and 34 wide, fitted in the style
of Louis XIV. On the walls are six mag
nificent specimens of GobeUn tapestry,
a present to George IV. from Charles X.,
representing the legend of Jason and the
Golden Fleece. Here are also the two
elaborately wrought granite vases pre
sented by Frederick III. of Prussia to
William IV. ; and the great malachite
vase, the gift of the Emperor Nicholas to'
Her Majesty.
8. St. George's Hall, a spacious gallery
fitted by Wy attvil le especially for festivals
of the Order of the Garter, but used also
for state banquets when on a large scale.
The room is 200 ft. long, but only 34 wide
and 32 high. On one side is a range of
13 lofty windows, which look into the
great quadrangle ; on the other are por
traits of the sovereigns of England from
James I. to George IV. Trophies of arms
and armour are hung between the pic
tures. On 24 shields behind the throne
are the arms of the Sovereigns of the
Order from Edward III. to WiUiam • IV.
The panels of the roof are emblazoned
with the arms of aU the knights from the
foundation of the Order, the numbers on
them corresponding to the names of their
respective owners, painted -between the
panels of the windows. Galleries of dark
oak, for musicians, are at each end. The
portraits of James I. and Charles I. are
by Vandyck; Charles II. and James II.
by Lely ; Mary IL, William III., Anne,
and George I. by Kneller ; George II.
by Zeeman ; George III. by Dupont;
George IV. by Lawrence.
*9. The Gua?'d Chamber, a great Gothic
room of somewhat irregular form, being
78 ft. long, 26 ft. wide at one end and 21
at the other, with a groined ceiling (of
plaster), is filled with a rich coUection of
armour. Life-sized figures display the
suits of the Duke of Brunswick (1530) ;
Lord Howard of Effingham (1588) ; the
Earl of Essex (1696.) ; Henry Prince of
Wales (1612) ; Charles Prince of Wales
(1620) ; and Prince Rupert (1635) ; and
suits of armour, breastplates, helmets,
shields, and a great variety of weapons
are ranged on the walls. At the end of
the room, on a pedestal formed by a
portion of the mast of the Victory per
forated by a cannon ball, is a colossal
bust of Nelson by Cliantrey. Rt. and 1,

WINDSOR.

727

WINDSOR.

of the great admiral are busts of Marl
borough, a copy by Sevier from Rysbrack,
and Wellington by Chant rey ; over thera
being suspended the small banners pre
sented by their representatives to the
sovereign on the anniversaries of Blen
heim and Waterloo, in satisfaction of the
tenure of the estates of Blenheim and
Strathfieldsaye. Various military trophies
occupy places on the floor, and within a
glass case over the chimneypiece is the
matchless shield by Benvenuto Cellini,
presented by Francis I. to Henry VIII.
on the Field of the Cloth of Gold.
10. The Queens Presence Cliamber has
one of Verrio's refulgent ceiUngs, repre
senting Catherine, Queen of Charles IL,
as the central figure, surrounded by all
the Virtues, " Fame proclaiming the
happiness of the country," and Justice
driving away Envy, Hatred, and Discord.
On the waUs are four large specimens of
Gobelin tapestry, setting forth the history
of Queen Esther. The portraits are, the
Princesses EUzabeth and Dorothea of
Brunswick, by Mytens, and Henrietta
Duchess of Orleans, youngest daughter of
Charles I. , by Mignard.
These are aU the State Rooms now
shown to the pubUc. Five or six others
which used to be shown, and in which is
the general coUection of pictures, are now
included in the Queen's Private Apart
ments, and can only be seen, in the absence
of the Court, by an express order from
the Lord Cliamberlain.
The Queen's Closet, a pretty room over
looking the North Terrace, contains a
number of fine pictures, mostly of cabinet
size, including the popular ' Misers ' (or
'Money Changers') of Quentin Matsys,
and several heads attributed with more
or less probabiUty to Holbein. Of these,
that of Sir Henry Guildford, a gross
yeUow-visaged personage, is undoubtedly
from the master's own pencil. So also,
though not so good a picture, is Thomas
Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk, father of
the poet. Others are more open to ques
tion, and one or more (as the Edward VI.)
seem irreconcileable with the dates of
Holbein's decease. The portrait of Eras
mus by Pens is full of character and well
painted, whether an original likeness, or,
as said, a copy from Holbein. Small
landscapes by Claude Lorraine, interiors
by Tenters, and others ascribed to L. da

Vinci, Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens, Hon-
thorst, B. Van Orley, etc., fill the room.
The King's Closet. St. Catharine, Do-
menichino : a characteristic example.
Portraits of the Emperor Charles V., and
of the Duke of Alva, Sir Antonio Moro.
'Holy Family,' Tintoretto, admirably
painted. ' Mary Magdalen anointing the
Feet of the Saviour,' Rubens, brilUant
and characteristic. Portrait of the artist
and his wife, J. Van Cleef, a very good
example of a painter whose name seldom
occurs in catalogues. Interior, Jan Steen ;
' The Woman of Samaria,' Guercino; two
or three roadside groups by Wouvermans ;
a Prison by Steenwyok ; Landscapes by
Gaspar Poussin, and a couple of Views
of Windsor Castle, 1674, by Jan Voster-
mann, wiU repay examination.
The King's Dran-ing Room, best known
as the Rubens' Room, from the pictures in
it being entirely by that master, is a mag
nificent room alike from its appearance,
contents, and the grand view obtained
from the great oriel at the end, over
hanging the best part of the North Ter
race. The chief paintings are — Portrait
of Rubens, the picture, so well known by
the engravings, of the painter in a broad
hat and gold chain, painted for Charles I. ;
an inimitable work, to which there is here
an equally admirable and famous com
panion, the Portrait of Helena Fourment,
his second wife. The large group of
Rubens' friend Sir Balthasar Gerbier and
his Family is now usually attributed to
Vandyck, but it is very much in Rubens'
manner. St. Martin dividing his Cloak
with the Beggar, a large and vigorous
work, in Rubens' broadest style. Holy
Family, with St. Francis of Assisi, a
masterly production. PhiUp IV. of Spain
on horseback, Victory awarding him the
palm — a court picture ; as is also, though
a more remarkable work, the equestrian
portrait of the Archduke Albert of Austria
as Governor of the Netherlands. Two
large landscapes (7 ft. 7 in. wide, by 5 ft.
high), caUed respectively Winter and
Summer, painted by Rubens to decorate
his own house at Antwerp, and purchased
with the rest of his Antwerp collection by
George VilUers Duke of Buckingham, are
brilliant pictures, quite unUke the land
scapes of any other painter, and full of
power. The broad expanse of low level
country is wonderfully well rendered in

WINDSOR.

728

WINDSOR.

the Summer (more correctly ' Going to
Market '), but the scene is marred by an
ungainly group of cattle in the foreground.
The Council Chamber. — ' St. John,' in
a landscape, Correggio. A Sibyl, Guer-
cino. ' Silence : Virgin and Child, St.
John Approaching,' A. Carracci, the well-
known picture. Magdalen, C. Dolce. Two
Interiors of Churches, by Peter Neefs.
Duke of Marlborough, Kneller. Duke of
Cumberland, Reynolds. Prince Rupert,
Lely. The Throne Room, a superbly decorated
apartment, has some remarkably fine
carvings by Gibbons, and full-length por
traits of George III. by Gainsborough;
George IV. by Lawrence; and WilUam IV.
by Shee.
The remainder of the rooms on the N.
side of the castle, and those on the E. of
the quadrangle — the Private State Rooms
proper — are right royal rooms, large,
stately, sumptuously fitted and furnished,
and withal have a thoroughly comfortable
aspect. The Corridor, which gives access
to them, and affords an indoor pro
menade (with the North Corridor) 520 ft.
long, is lined with busts of sovereigns,
nobles, statesmen, warriors, writers, and
other distinguished persons ; statues, the
most important being the group of the
Queen and the Prince Consort by Theed ;
portraits by Lawrence and other eminent
artists ; views of Venice by Canaletto ; of
London, Windsor, etc., by Znccarelli and
others ; and numerous beautiful cabinets,
including one which belonged to Wolsey.
The North Corridor has been fitted in a
particular manner with arms and armour
of exceptional rarity and value; the swords
of remarkable personages — among others
those of Columbus and of Sobieski, that
carried by Charles I. at Naseby, and that
worn by Hampden at Chalgrove Field ;
the footstool of Tippoo Saib's throne, a
tiger's head of gold with teeth of crystal,
and the peacock set with precious stones
which decked the same potentate's state
umbrella ; various costly oriental objects,
presents chiefly from Eastern Princes ;
and several richly wrought mediaeval
shields and weapons. The Great or Crim
son Drawing Room is very splendid, but
chiefly remarkable for its hangings and
furniture of red silk. The names of the
White and the Green Drawing Rooms
bespeak their respective characteristics.

The Queen's Drawing Room, is the room in
which George IV. and William IV. died.
The Private Drawing Room is noted for
its mirrors, the gilded tracery of its walls
and ceihngs, and as containing the large
and elegantly wrought silver- gilt wine-
cooler designed byFlaxman for George IV.
But to see what treasures in plate the
Castle possesses, a special order for the
Plate Room must be obtained of the Lord
Steward — which is not often granted.
Windsor is famous for its gold (or silver-
gilt) plate, which embraces an almost
endless variety of articles, and is probably
in extent and richness unequalled. Many
of the cups, vases, salvers, candelabra, and
shields are of extreme beauty ; others are
equally remarkable for massiveness or
quaintness. When the dinner-service is
laid out at a state banquet, and the buf
fets are loaded with the larger and choicer
objects, the effect is described as surpas
singly fine. In point of art the highest
places are assigned to the Nautilus Cup of
Benvenuto Cellini, some 16th century cups
of exquisitely carved ivory mounted in
gold, and the Achilles Shield of Flaxman.
Greatly prized is the silver fountain de
signed by the Prince Consort, and made
by Messrs. Garrard. For their rarity, or
associations, are pointed out the sUver wine
fountain taken from the Spanish Armada ;
a cup made of Spanish dollars captured at
Havannah in 1702 ; Nell Gwynne's golden
bellows ; a salver with the arms of EUza
beth of Bohemia; the St. George can
delabrum of sUver, 4 ft. high ; and an
almost endless variety of objects equally
rich and rare.
The Royal Library is exceedingly in
teresting. George IV. having given (or
sold) the royal collection of books to the
British Museum, William IV. determined
to found a new Royal Library at Windsor.
The more valuable books remaining in the
several palaces; MSS., including the Stuart
Papers ; the Royal Miniatures ; and the
magnificent collection of drawings by the
great masters, were brought together and
deposited in the Castle.
The library as thus formed was of
great value and extent, but incomplete
and ill-arranged; and the Prince Consort
devoted himself with rare ardourto remedy
its deficiencies, and to render its stores
available. He was not spared to accom
plish aU he purposed, but his plans have

WINDSOR.

729

WINDSOR.

been faithfully followed, and the library
reconstructed as he designed it. The
printed books now number some 40,000
volumes, are comprehensive in range, in
clude choice editions and rare old copies,
and many are of great interest to the
bibUographer and lover of binding. But
the glory of the library is the almost un
rivalled Collection of Drawings. Curiously
enough, the foundation of the collection
was laid by Charles IL, who was persuaded
by Sir Peter Lely to purchase at the sale
of Lord Arundel's collection in Holland
the drawings and MSS. of Leonardo da
Vinci and Holbein, with many by Michel
Angelo, Raphael, and other great ItaUan
masters. They seem, however, to have
been Uttle regarded, were laid aside, and
after a time forgotten, and only in the
reign of George II. were they by accident
discovered packed away in a bureau at
Kensington Palace. About the same time
Frederick Prince of Wales bought the ex
tensive coUection of ItaUan and French
drawings and miniatures formed by Dr.
Mead ; and with these two collections as
the basis, George III. formed the Royal
Collection as it now exists at Windsor.
By his agents on the Continent, and in
England, George III. purchased very
largely, though not always with judg
ment, and the collection as he left it
contained no fewer than 15,000 drawings.
They were in a chaotic condition when
deposited in the library at Windsor, but,
following the directions of the Prince
Consort, they have been reduced to order,
their relative place and value as far as
practicable determined, and every im
portant drawing remounted so as to display
it to the best advantage, and preserve it
from injury. In this process of examining
and remounting, many precious works were
discovered. Unknown treasures were
brought to light in looking through port-
foUos; and often in removing drawings
from their mounts, sketches, studies, varia
tions of figures, or parts of figures, were
disclosed.* The drawings by Leonardo da Vinci,
originaUy mounted in 3 volumes, form a
* B. B. Woodward, F.S.A., Librarian to the
Queen and Keeper of the Eoyal Prints and Draw
ings, Papers on the Drawings inWindsor Castle, in
the Fine Arts Quarterly Review, and in Gent.
Mag. 1866; Waagen, Treasures of Art in Great
Britain, vol. ii. ; MS. Notes.

collection only rivalled by that of the
Grand Duke of Tuscany, and that in the
Ambrosian Library, Milan. The range of
subjects is extraordinary, and not less so
the power and grandeur of some of the
drawings, and the delicacy and refine-
mentof others. MicJicl Angelo' s drawings,
with some miscellaneous Italian drawings,
also filled 3 volumes. Many of those at
tributed to him are certainly not by the
mighty Florentine, but enough are indu
bitable to make the series of great value.
Several are studies for the frescoes in the
Sistine Chapel, and other important works.
To Raphael 53 drawings are attributed,
but Passavant admits only 19 as genuine.
The Raphael Cabinet, a handsome piece
of furniture in the Print Room, well ex-
empUfies the Prince Consort's anxiety
to make the royal collections subserve
thoroughness in the study of art. The
object was to see how far it would be
possible to illustrate the life and works—
the mental processes and modes of opera
tion — of a great artist, and Raphael was
selected for the first experiment. In
order to procure "the best possible repre
sentation of every picture or other work
of the master," copies were obtained of
every engraving of value of the several
works ; and where no sufficient engraving
existed, or was obtainable, a photograph
was, if possible, secured. With this was ar
ranged whatever of value could be brought
together respecting the particular work.
The sketches and studies for each com
position, and for every group and separate
figure in it, were collected and placed with
the representation of the finished work,
photographs being for this purpose pro
cured of nearly all the known drawings
by Raphael in the public museums and
private collections throughout Europe.
Then prints, drawings, or photographs,
were obtained, and duly arranged, of all
the earlier works which may be supposed
to have influenced the master in the com
position, or suggested any incident, atti
tude, or figure. A somewhat similar but
supplementary seriesfoUows of subsequent
works of accepted value, which appear to
have been suggested by, or are imitations
of, Raphael's work. Finally, there is a
complete collection of the portraits of
Raphael — photographs and engravings.
The several specimens were uniformly
mounted, and the Raphael Cabinet was

WINDSOR.

730

WINDSOR.

designed and made by Mr. Crace for the
reception of this unique collection — which
will eventually, it is assumed, form 50
great volumes. Similar illustrations of
Michel Angelo and Da Vinci, and pro
bably of other great artists, were to have
followed, but for the Prince's too early
death.* There are many drawings by Fra Bar-
tolommeo, Correggio, Parmigiano, Luca
SignoreUi, Fra FiUppo Lippi, a large
number by Guercino and Domenichino,
and others by Guido, Andrea del Sarto,
and other of the chief Italian painters.
There is also an exceedingly interesting
series (part of Dr. Mead's collection) of
over 1500 beautifully finished antiquarian
drawings by Sandro BartolA, embracing,
among other things, drawings of 900
antique bas-reUefs, then in Rome, and
accurate representations, many coloured,
of all the ancient paintings and mosaics
which had been discovered in Rome before
the end of the 17th century.
Of drawings by Holbein there is a
magnificent collection, numbering 87
examples, many of them heads drawn
from the life, of eminent historical per
sonages. Like the Raphael drawings,
these have been photographed, and are
familiar to the art-student. Many draw
ings by Albert Diirer, Lucas Cranach,
and other famous masters of the early
German school, as well as a large number
by Nicolo Poussin, Claude Lorraine, and
the leading masters of the half-Italian
early French school.
The collection of Prints has been greatly
augmented and entirely rearranged since
the accession of Her Majesty, and is now
one of the finest in the kingdom, rich alike
in the works of the great early engravers
and of the more eminent moderns. The
classification of the collection of engraved
historical portraits was one of the first
steps taken by the Prince Consort in the
reconstruction of the Royal Library.
Before quitting the Cas.tle, the Terrace,
some 2500 ft. long, which surrounds it on
the N,, E., and S. sides, should be visited.
The North Terrace is open every day ; the
East Terrace only on Saturday and Sunday
afternoons, from half -past one to sunset,
* Becker and Ruland (Librarians to the Prince
Consort), On the Raphael Collection at Windsor, in
Fine Arts, Quart. Rev., vol. i.

during summer : on the Sunday evenings
miUtary bands play. The formation of the
Terrace has been told, and how George III.
walked his hour daUy along it, to the
great delight of his subjects, as Elizabeth,
Charles I., and Charles II. had done before
him, and as Cromwell used to do whUst
he dwelt in Windsor Castle. The North
Terrace affords the finest views. The
prospect may not be, as Evelyn asserted,
one of the finest in the world, but it would
be difficult to find one in this country to
surpass it.
' ** Where is there any worse land in the world
than some parts of Windsor Forest '—whereas I my
self have spoken with Italians upon the Terrace at
Windsor, who looking about and seeing all the
country did compare it to Lombardy." *
From the East Terrace, the prospect,
wanting " Eton, the meandering Thames,
and the sweet meadows " through which
it flows, cannot compare with that from
the North Terrace ; but it commands a
wide stretch of sylvan scenery, the Home
and Great Parks, Windsor Forest, and
Virginia Water, and is only bounded by
the hazy Surrey hills. Below the Terrace
are the Queen's Private Garden and the
carefully tended Slopes, running gently
into the level meadows of the Home Park.
At the foot of the Slopes was the Tourna
ment Ground of the early Festivals of St.
George, and there Edward III. chal
lenged all comers, his shield bearing his
cognizance of the White Swan, with the
motto —
" Hay, Hay, the white swan ;
By Goddes Soul I am thy Man."
South of the Castle, the entrance from
Castle Hill, are the Royal Stables, erected
in 1840 at a cost of about £70,000. They
are built about several open courts, and
are " casteUated so as to accord in style
with the castle," but are of little architec
tural value. They are, however, said to
be well adapted to their purpose, and are
of course fitted with the most approved
appUances. Stabling is provided in them
for over 100 ^orses, and there are coach,
harness,and saddle departments,veterinary
houses, etc. The Riding House, near the
centre of the stables, is 170 ft. long, 52
wide, and 40 high, and has at one end a
* Bishop Goodman, Court of King James, vol, i.,
p. 169.

WINDSOR.

731

WINDSOR.

Royal Gallery, whence the exercises may
be witnessed. The Stables and Riding
House may be visited on application any
week-day between 1 and 3 o'clock. A small
gratuity is expected by the person show
ing them. The grooms are not allowed
to uncover the horses.
, The Home Park (formerly known as
the Little Park) lies E. and N. of the
Castle, with the Thames as its outer
boundary.* The area is about 500 acres,
the circuit somewhat over 4 mUes. It is
for the most part level, but contains many
noble trees standing singly, in groups, and
in long and stately avenues of the times
of Charles II. and WilUam III., and now
at their fullest growth. The Home Park
has been much altered of late years, and
is now a strictly private park ; the road
and paths across it having been diverted,
and the park closed to the pubUc It was
in the Home Park, about Frogmore, that
Shakspeare laid many of the scenes of his
1 Merry Wives of Windsor.'
Heme's Oak. — A tall, withered, and
barkless tree stood till lately within a
railing in the Une of the avenue of elms,
near the park waU, and not far from the
footpath to Frogmore, which, under the
name of Heme's Oak, had a wide renown
from the beUef that it was the veritable
" oak with great ragg'd horns " which
Heme the hunter all the winter time at
stiU midnight walked round about, and
under which Sir John Falstaff was so
unmercifully handled. The tree, which
had long leant over, fell on the 31st of
August, 1863. A young oak has been
planted to mark the site. But the tree
was of more than doubtful verity. Neither
in size nor appearance did it correspond
to the tree described by Mrs. Page, and it
was not known as Heme's Oak in the
beginning of the present century. That
name was then and long before given to
a larger oak some 30 yards distant, which
had " great ragg'd horns," and which was
cut down by order of George III., along
with some other decayed and " unsightly

* The name Home Park is sometimes con
fined to "the low ground between the N. side of
the Castle and the river, in contradistinction to
the Little Park," which includes the rest of the
tract included under the name of the Home Park ;
but no such distinction was formerly made. (See
Tighe and Davis, Annals of Windsor, vol. i.,
p. 31, n.)

trees," the King not knowing when he
gave the order that Heme's Oak was of
the number.*
Frogmore House and grounds were
granted (47 Geo. III., cap. 45) on lease
for 99 years, at a .nominal rent, to
Queen Charlotte, who Uved here, and
here had a private press, with which she
amused herself by printing some poetry.
It was afterwards the residence of the
Princess Augusta, and later of the Duchess
of Kent. It is now held by the Queen;
and here is the Royal Garden, of about
30 acres, famous for its fruits and flowers.
The Royal Dairy is a daintily orna
mented little model dairy, but Uke all else
at Frogmore strictly private.
On an artificial mound by the Orna
mental Water at Frogmore is the Mauso
leum, of the Duchess of Kent (d. 1861).
The building, a circular temple of Port
land stone, with a cupola of copper, is
surrounded by 16 Ionic columns, the
shafts of polished grey granite, the bases
and capitals of bronze. The frieze beneath
the dome, the doorway, and door are also
of bronze. The interior has a lower
chamber in which is the sarcophagus, of
polished granite, containing the remains
of the Duchess of Kent, and an upper
chamber in which is her effigy by Theed.
The architect was Mr. A. J. Humbert. A
marble bust, by Theed, of her daughter
the Princess of Hohenlohe-Langenberg,
was placed " beside the tomb of the
Mother, lamented by both, by her only
sister, Victoria R.," 1873.
Not far from the above, and within
sight of Windsor Castle, stands the Roy a I
Mausoleum, erected by the Queen, 1862-70,
to contain the remains of the Prince
Consort. The building, designed by Mr.
A. J. Humbert, is cruciform in plan, the
limbs of the cross being of equal length,
and small chapels filling the interspaces.
The centre rises as an octagonal lantern,
and is surmounted by a large gilded cross.
* Mr. C. Knight, Local Illustrations to 'Merry
Wives of Windsor,' has discussed the subject with
the advantage of early local knowledge, and has
given engravings of both the trees. The question
is also fully examined in Tighe and Davis's Annals
of Windsor, vol. ii. ; and see Gilpin, Remarks on
Forest Scenery; Gent. Mag., April 1811, and Jan.
— April 1868. Mr. Jesse in the 2nd series of his
Gleanings, 1834, and Mr. Perry in a Treatise on
the Identity of Heme's Oak, 1867, maintain the
authority of the tree that fell in 1863.

WINDSOR.

732

WINDSOR.

At the E. end is an entrance porch. The
external dimensions are 80 ft. by 70 ; the
height to the top of the lantern 83 feet.
The walls are of Portland stone, with
polished granite columns on a basement
of granite. The interior decorations, de
signed by Prof. Griiner, in the Italian
Cinque-Cento style, are of exceeding rich
ness. The walls are Uned with a great
variety of coloured marbles ; the columns,
cornices, etc., are of white statuary
marble, with bases, capitals, and other
ornamental features of bronze gilt. Ara
besques occupy the interspaces. The
pendentives of the lantern are filled with
pictures executed by Salviati in mosaic.
Along the vaulting ribs of the lantern are
gilded statues of angels. In the chapels
are large paintings — that over the
entrance being by the Princess Royal
(the Princess Imperial of Germany).
Statues of prophets, frescoes of the
Evangelists, mosaics, and elaborate orna
ments in gilt bronze, fill every remaining
portion of wall space. The windows have
Munich painted glass. The pavement is
a mosaic of coloured marbles. In the
centre, under the lantern, on a base of
polished black marble, stands the massive
sarcophagus, wrought from a block of
grey Aberdeen granite^-the largest ever
quarried. At the angles are bronze statues
of kneeUng angels. On the Ud of the
sarcophagus is a recumbent statue of the
Prince Consort in white marble, from the
chisel of Marochetti. On the W. is an
altar of marble and mosaic, and above it
a large painting of the Resurrection.
(These monuments are not accessible to
the public.)
Windsor Great Park stretches away
for 4 or 5 miles southward of the town,
castle, and Home Park. Norden in 1607
estimated it at 3650 acres, and the Par
liamentary Survey of 1649 at 3670 acres.
William III. threw into it 390 acres of
the Moat Park. But on the death of the
Duke of Cumberland, ranger of Windsor
Park, in 1791, George III. took the
management into his own hands; dis
parked all but 1800 acres of the Great
Park, and converted the larger half into
farms. The area of park land has since
been somewhat extended by annexing a
portion of the disafforested Windsor
Forest. The Great Park abounds in rich
sylvan and wild forest-Uke scenery ;

pleasant walks and drives extend in every
direction, and large herds of deer wander
at will over the broad heathy slopes and
ferny deUs. A recent parUamentary re
turn shows that the number of deer kept
in Windsor Great Park, on an average of
the last 10 years, is 1658 ; the number
killed annuaUy is 128 ; the number re
quired for the Royal Hunt, 16.
From the castle the Great Park is
traversed by the famous avenue known as
the Long Walk, begun by Charles II.
and completed by WilUam III. The
Long Walk is a perfectly straight road,
nearly 3 miles long, with on each side a
double row of noble elms, now somewhat
past their prime. Many of the elms are
decaying, and several have fallen, but
every care is taken to preserve them, and
to maintain as far as practicable the
matchless avenue. On Snow Hill, attheend
of the Long Walk, is a colossal equestrian
statue, by Sir Richard Westmacott, of
George III. in a Roman habit. From it
there are fine views of the castle, and
close at hand some beautiful forest
walks. On the W. of the Long Walk, stretch
ing from Hudson's Gate at the bottom
of Sheet Street to the southern boundary
of the park, is a still longer single avenue
of elms, called Queen Anne's Ride, from
having been planted by Q. Anne in 1707.
About a mile S. of the Long Walk is
Cumberland Lodge, built originally by
Charles IL, but which received its
present name from having been for
many years tbe residence of the Duke
of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden,
when ranger of the parks. The lodge was
nearly destroyed by fire, Nov. 14, 1869,
but has been rebuilt, and is now the resi
dence of the Prince and Princess Christian
of Schleswig-Holstein.
Between Cumberland Lodge and the
statue is the Royal Lodge, known as the
King's Cottage in the days of George IV.,
who built it, and spent his last years
secluded in it. After his death the larger
part was pulled down; but it has been
partially restored and fitted for the oc
casional residence of the Prince of Wales.
Near it is a pretty little Gothic Chapel,
rebuilt in 1866.
Cranbome Lodge, on the W. side of the
park, one of the lodges built by Charles II.,
and the residence of Lord Ranelagh,

WINDSOR.

733

WINDSOR.

afterwards of the Duke of St. Albans,
the Duke of York, the Duke of Gloucester,
for awhile of the Princess Charlotte,
and later of Nash the architect. It was
some years since pulled down, except a
sort of tower, but it has recently been
refitted as a royal resting-place on occa
sional excursions from Windsor Castle.
It is pleasantly placed on a moderate
elevation, and commands extensive pros
pects. The vicinity is famous for its
oaks. One great tree is known as William
the Conqueror's Oak. Within a clearing
in the wood, on the other side of the
Winkfield road, is a splendid oak, the
trunk rising straight and clean for some
50 ft. before the branches spread out into
a stately head. On the trunk is a brass
plate inscribed Queen Victoria's Tree.
From it there is a charming wild walk
for nearly two mUes along the sides of a
steep ravine.
On the eastern side of the park by
Bishopsgate are some deUghtful wood
land soUtudes. "In the summer of
1815, after a tour along the southern
coast of Devonshire, and a visit to
Clifton," Shelley rented a house on
Bishopsgate Heath ; " spent his days
under the oak shades of Windsor Great
Park," and found in "the magnificent
woodland a fitting study to inspire the
various descriptions of forest scenery we
find in the poem" of Alastor which he
there composed. And now, as then, one
who wanders there will find that
" Silence and Twilight here, twin sisters, keep
Their noonday watch."
By Sandpit-gate, famous for its beeches,
is a noted heronry, " a noble appendage
to the park," Mr. Jesse truly terms it,
" and any monarch might well be proud
of it, as well as of the trees on which the
nests are built." Blackness is hardly
less rich in noble trees and lovely scenery,
and aU the way thence is beautiful to
Virginia Water.
Windsor Forest, the chase of the Con
queror, and other mighty hunters of the
ages past —
" A dreary desert and a gloomy waste
To savage beasts and savage laws a prey,
And kings more furious and severe than they —
extended far beyond the precincts of the

Pope, Windsor Forest.

Great Park to the W. and S. ; but it may
be doubted whether in the Norman times
there was any division into park and
forest, the whole district being the royal
hunting-ground. The circuit of the Nor
man forest is stated to have been over 180
miles. In Norden's Survey of the forest,
1607, the circuit is given as 77£ miles.
In Rocque's Map it is reckoned at 56
miles, As time went on enclosures were
made and cultivation advanced, but the
forest was still a broad open tract of
woodland heath and waste, the home of
a wild and reckless race, who gained a
precarious UveUhood by poaching and
other lawless practices, and were the
terror of their more quiet and industrious
neighbours. At length, in 1806, a parUa-
mentary commission was appointed to
inquire into the condition of the forest,
and during the following years, 1807-10,
they made several reports. From these
it appeared that in 1790 the forest was
reputed to contain 59,600 acres, of which
24,628 acres were open forest and waste.
Deer kiUing was rampant, and in 1806
only 318 deer were left in the forest. At
this time the forest included the whole of
11 parishes and parts of 6 others.
In 1813 an Act was passed for enclosing
Windsor Forest, by which all the lands
within the parishes and liberties of Wind
sor Forest were declared to be disafforested
and all forestal rights abolished from the
1st of July, 1814. Of the open land 6665
acres were aUotted to the Crown. Of
these about 3000 acres were enclosed and
planted with oak, fir, and larch ; the rest
was for the most part brought under the
plough. Eight years later (Oct. 1822) the
radical Cobbett found little to admire in
its aspect. " On leaving Oakingham for
London, you get upon what is called
Windsor Forest ; that is to say, upon as
bleak, as barren, and as viUainous a heath
as ever man set his eyes on. However,
here are new enclosures without end. And
here are houses too, here and there, over
the whole of this execrable tract of
country." * The forest soon disappeared
as a forest. With the exception of the
irreclaimable heath, the Crown enclosures,
now a sea of firs, and some few fragments
of woodland left open on the skirts of the
Great Park, the district is everywhere en-
* Cobbett, Rural Rides, p. 59.

WINDSOR, OLD.

734

WINDSOR, OLD.

closed and cultivated, Pope's ' Wmdsor
Forest ' would not now serve as a pocket
guide. AU that is beautiful or characteristic
of the ancient Forest of Windsor now lies
within the Great Park or close upon its
borders.
WIND SOE, OLD, Berks, a
village on the rt. bank of the Thames, 2
m. S.E. from the town and castle of
Windsor, and 3 m. N.W. of Egham. Pop.
of par. 2112, but this includes 619 in the
eccl. dist. of Holy Trinity, Sunningdale,
formed in 1841, and 23 in that of St. Peter,
Cranborne ; 252 in the Union Workhouse,
and 170 in Beaumont College. Inn, the
Bells of Ouseley.
As the name implies, Old Windsor is
the parent of the neighbouring town,
New Windsor. Windlesora* — according
to some authorities the winding shore,
from A.-S, windel, to wind, and or, a shore,
in allusion to the serpentine course of the
Thames here, — was the seat of a royal
residence in A.-S, times. In May 1061,
jEthelsige was consecrated Abbot of
St. Augustine's, Canterbury, by the Arch
bishop Stigand, at the royal house at
Windsor. Edward the Confessor kept
court here occasionally. At a banquet
given by him is said by some to have
occurred the death of Earl Godwin, but
the better reading of the legend gives
Winchester as the place. On another occa
sion the quarrel between Harold and his
brother Tostig, in 1064, is placed in the
royal hall at Windleshores.^ Edward
gave the manor to the Abbot of West
minster, but it was resumed, in exchange
for other lands, by William I„ who liked
the place on account of its proximity to
the river and to the great Forest of
Windsor, to which he desired to resort
for hunting, But he disliked the low
and exposed situation of the house,
and built for himself a castle on the
high ground within the Forest where
now stands Windsor Castle: or it may be
only appropriated and extended one,
which had belonged to Harold there. (See
Windsor.) The old palace continued to be used
as a residence till the castle was com-
* A.-S. Chron., An. 1061 ; Kemble, Cod. Dip.
jEvi Sax., vol. iv., pp. 178, 209, etc.
t Henry of Huntingdon, Hist. Angl., Lib. vi. ;
Mon. Hist. Brit., p. 761.

pleted — occasionaUy perhaps till the
reign of Henry I. Its site is uncertain,
but " a farm, which till recently stood W.
of the ch., and near the river, surrounded
by a moat," has been pointed out by the
local historians as " the probable site " of
the Confessor's residence.* Moat and
mounds are still traceable, and it is quite
possible that they may mark the site of the
early English palace, which is not likely
to have been a very substantial structure,
but would no doubt have a moat and some
defensive works. The place has no sub
sequent independent history.
Old Windsor is now a pretty, secluded,
scattered and thinly populated place, with
the Thames, here very beautiful, on one
side of it, and on the other the grand old
trees of Windsor Park, and rising high
above them the towers of Windsor Castle.
On every hand are stately houses and gay
villas, with wide and well-planted grounds.
The Church (St. Peter) is of the 13th
cent., but has been much altered. The
original building consisted of a nave and
chancel of equal width, and a tower at the
W. end. In 1864 it underwent a complete
renovation, and partial transformation, at
the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott. The tower
and original E.E. windows were retained,
but all else was altered. A chancel aisle
was added on the N., and a new porch on
the S. Inside a new soUd oak roof was
erected ; the old pews were removed, and
open oak seats substituted, and several of
the windows were filled with painted
glass, by O'Connor.
There are no monts. calling for notice
within the building. In the ch.-yard,
obs. at the N.E. end, the altar tomb, over
hung by a yew-tree and fir, of Mrs. Mary
Robinson, d. 1800, set. 43, the celebrated
and unfortunate actress who, as Perdita,
in the ' Winter's Tale,' won the heart of
the Prince of Wales, afterwards George TV.
At the W. end of the ch.-yard a flat cross
marks the grave of Charles Brinsley
Sheridan, d. 1843, second son of Richard
Brinsley Sheridan. On the S. side of the
ch. -yard is a very fine yew-tree.
Among the old mansions the most con.
spicuous was Beaumont, on high ground,
overlooking the Thames, | m. S. of the
vUlage, which was in the last century the

" Tighe and Davis, Annals of Windsor, vol i .
p. 10.

WOLDINGHAM.

73;

WOLDINGHAM.

seat of Warren Hastings. It has been
remodelled and added to, and is now the
Roman Catholic College of St. Stanislaus,
for young gentlemen.
Other seats are The Friary (F.
Ricardo, Esq.) ; Runnimede House (Rev.
W. Kitching) ; The Priory (G. Romain,
Esq.) In 1865 two Roman tombs were dis
covered in the course of some drainage
operations at a farm called Tyleshod.
Both contained charred bones, and in one
was found a glass bottle of elegant shape,
but 1 roken ; in the other a weU-shaped
cinerary urn 14 inches high.
WOBUKN FABM; WOBUBN
PARK, Surrey (see Addlestone).
WOLDINGHAM, Surrey, a settle
ment of the Wealdingas (Kemble), Dom.
Wallingham, a secluded little village 3 m.
N.E. of Godstone, 2 m. E. of the Caterham
Rly. Stat. To reach Woldingham from
Caterham take the path up the lull, nearly
opposite the stat., to Tillingdown Farm
(which leave on rt.); then cross the
bottom (where is the rifle ground — look
out for the red flag), and go past the bam,
and at the end of the field take the path
which caters (as they say hereabouts) to
the rt., and cross the Deer Park (the N.
end of Marden Park— see Godstone), a
wUd-looking place, half forest skirt, half
common, and very picturesque — through
Nether Court Farm Yard, and to the rt.
by the Hop Pole; — but some of these
ways may be stopped ; they are stopping
many of the field-paths in this neighbour
hood just now.
By the Hop Pole are the houses—
scarcely a vUlage. The whole parish in
1861 contained only 8 houses and 67 inh.,
but these had increased in 1871 to 13
houses and 82 inh. , so that the population
is not stationary ; in 1811 there were only
58 inhabitants.
The Church (dedication unknown) is J
a mUe S. of the Hop Pole, in a field on the
rt. of the road, and far away from any
house. When John Evelyn was here,
just two centuries ago, with Sir Robert
Clayton, then owner of the property, he
says, " I earnestly suggested to him the
repairing of an old desolate dilapidated
Church, standing on the hill above the

house, which I left him in good disposi
tion to do, and endow it better; there
not being above foure or five houses in the
parish besides that of this prodigious rich
scrivener." * But the good disposition
went where many other good dispositions
of prodigious rich scriveners have gone,
and the ch. remained desolate and dilapi
dated. It was only a room, without
tower, bell-cote, or bell, about 30 ft. long
and 17 wide, divided by a screen into
nave and chancel. At last, about 1830,
getting too dilapidated, it was taken
down, and the present unsightly structure
substituted. It is of flint and brick, a mere
oblong room, capable of holding between
30 and 40 people, without ornament out
side, except a porch, and inside, without
even the screen to mark off a chancel. In
the ch.-yard is a grand old yew-tree, and
fronting the porch is an ash of great size
and still handsome, though it has lost
some of its upper Umbs.
From the brow of the hill beyond the
church — the. best point is at the turn of
the road, somewhat less than J a mUe S. of
the ch. — is a wide and splendid view over
the Weald of Survey, Kent, and Sussex.
The walks from Woldingham, E. along
the ridge of the hUl, or S. and E. by Ox
tead and Limpsfield, are very beautiful.
Aubrey records the finding, early in the
17th cent., of a coin of Constantine at
Woldingham; and on the Upper Court
Lodge Farm, the farm nearest the ch.,
and of old the manor-house, several iron
arrow heads, celts, and two bronze fibuhe
were found in the early part of the present
century. Other remains have been found
in the neighbourhood. A rental of Upper
Court Lodge Farm, of 1402, mentions a
place there as " quondam Campes," and
it again occurs as " Campis " in a survey
of 1577. No vestiges of camp or barrow
appear to have escaped the plough, but
there are two fields on Upper Court Lodge
Farm caUed respectively the " Great"
and the " Little Barrow Leys," names
which seem to imply the former existence
of one or other — perhaps of both, f Bar
row Green and B otley Hill — very sugges
tive names — are not far off.
* Evelyn, Diary, 12 Oct., 167T.
t Aubrey, Surrey, vol. hi., p. 6 ; Manning and
Bray, Hist, of Surrey, voL ii. , p. 416 : Brayley,
Hist, of Surrey, vol. iv., p. 213; Proc. of Soo. of
Antiquaries, vol. vi, p. 395.

WOODFORD.

736

WOODFORD.

WOOD GREEN, Middx. (see
Tottenham). WOODFORD, Essex (Dom.
Wodeford), a district of citizens' villas,
on the Epping road, 7J m. from London
by road, 8J m. by the George Lane Stat.
(for Church End), 9£ m. by the Woodford
Stat, (for Woodford Green and Woodford
Bridge), of the Epping and Ongar branch
of the Grt. E. Rly. Pop. 4609, of whom
1188 were in the eccl. dist. of St. Paul
Woodford Bridge, and 106 in pubUc insti
tutions. Inns: White Hart, George,
Church End; Castle Hotel, Woodford
Green ; Horse at Well, Woodford WeUs.
Woodford, so named from the ford over
the Roding, at what is now known as
Woodford Bridge, lay wholly within the
Forest of Waltham. It was one of the
manors given by Harold to his abbey of
Waltham Holy Cross, and amidst all
changes was held by the abbey till the
Dissolution. Granted to John Lyon in
1546, it was resumed by Edward VI. in
exchange for other lands, and given to
Edward Lord Clinton and Say, who
in 1553 sold it to Robert Whetstone.
In 1640 it was alienated to Sir Thomas
Roe or Rowe, Queen EUzabeth's celebrated
ambassador. On the death of Roe's widow
in 1675 it was sold to Sir Benj. Thorow-
good, and by his son sold to Sir Richard
Child, afterwards Earl Tylney. It is now
the property of Earl Cowley. (See Wan
stead.) Borough English prevails within
the manor.
The parish is of great extent. There is
no vUlage proper, but instead are four
distinct and widely separated clusters of
houses — Woodford, or Church End,
Woodford Green, Woodford WeUs, and
Woodford Bridge.
Woodford Church End consists of little
more than a dozen commonplace houses
by the ch., with a' few great houses stand
ing apart in elm-bordered grounds. Many
new houses have, however, been built
lately within the ch. district, but to the
W. of the highroad. The Church, St.
Mary, is a very poor specimen of the
Gothic of 1817. It is of brick covered
with stucco, and consists of nave, aisles,
and short chancel, S. porch, and tall
battlemented W. tower. The interior has
galleries and pews, a wretched painted

glass E. window, and is nearly as ugly,
though not quite as mean, as the exterior.
There are several monumental tablets, but
none of much interest. Sir Thomas Roe,
who has been mentioned as lord of the
manor, and who was born in the neigh
bouring parish of Leyton, was buried in
the chancel, Nov. 8, 1644, but has no
memorial. At the S.W. comer of the
ch.-yard is a conspicuous tall Corinthian
column of veined yellow marble, with a
disproportioned capital bearing an urn.
On the pedestal is a long insc. commemo
rating " the ancient and knightly family
of Godfrey, which flourished many years
in the county of Kent," and " of whom
the most distinguished character" was
Sir Edmund Bury Godfrey, Knt., "de
scended according to tradition from
Godfrey le Fauconer, son of WilUam Fitz
Balderic, to whom Henry II. granted the
manor of Herst and other lands in Kent ; "
but the column is raised to the particular
honour of Peter Godfrey, Esq., M.P. for
the City of London, d. 1742. Sir Thos.
St. George, Principal Garter King of
Arms, d. 1703, has a tomb ; the others
are mostly to local magnates. S. of the
ch. is a yew-tree, the trunk of which is
over 14 ft. in girth at 3 ft. from the
ground. Immediately N. of the ch., with a door
way from the grounds into the ch.-yard,
is Woodford Hall, a large brick mansion
standing high, Uke the ch., in pleasant
grounds, and having a cheerful outlook.
Of old the seat of Wm. Hickman, Esq.,
ancestor of the Earl of Plymouth, of Sir
N. H. Hickman, and afterwards of the
Maitlands, and having grounds of much
greater extent, it is now Mrs. Gladstone's
Convalescent Home. About 80 inmates,
chiefly though not exclusively from the
East of London, are received from the
hospital or sick room ; admission is
free; and the management is praised
alike by visitors and inmates. Like most
similar institutions, the great difficulty is
that of raising sufficient funds. (Office,
30, Clarges Street, W.)
At Woodford Green, \ m. N. of the ch.,
are the best shops, many of them large
and well-stocked, with good plate-glass
fronts, ranged about two sides of a very
large green ; on the farther side is the
Castle Hotel, a large and good house.
Bordering the green are several mansions

WOODFORD.

737

WOODFORD.

standing within elm-lined grounds. On
the N.E. is an early Dec. church, with a
tall tower and shingled spire ; and the
rapid increase of the population is shown
by the fact that though the ch. is almost
new, it is being enlarged (May 1870)
by the addition of a N. aisle. Not far
from it is a large and handsome Con
gregational ch., of stone, E.E. in style,
cruciform, with a tower and spire 1-15 ft.
high. The noticeable Byzantine building
of coloured bricks, on the opposite side of
the Green, is a Methodist Free Church.
Woodford Wells, about \ a mUe N. of
Woodford Green, and connected with it
by modern cottage and villa residences,
owes its name to medicinal springs for
merly in repute for many diseases, but
which were a century ago already neg
lected.* The hamlet, which has a cheerful ,
old-fashioned, country aspect, Ues at the
foot of Buckhurst and ChigweU Hills, and
the southern edge of the open part of
Epping Forest ; and though the weUs
are neglected, an ornamental drinking
fountain, with a taU roof of enamelled
tiles, on the Green, by the Horse at the
Well inn, serves to recall their memory.
At Woodford WeUs is the Rescue Society's
Home for Girls.
Woodford Bridge, on the Ongar road,
\\ m. E. of Woodford Green, and 2 m.
N.E. of Woodford ch., is an outlying
hamlet, which was created an eccl. dist.
in 1854, and had 1188 inhab.in 1871. The
houses Une the road up the slope of the
hiU, N. of the bridge over the Roding,
from which the place takes its name. The
Church (St. Paul) lies off the road, on the
rt., by the 9 m.-stone, on the edge of
Wilcox Green. It is a plain early Dec.
building of stone, erected in 1854, and
comprises nave, deep chancel of a lower
pitch, and tower and short spire at the
N.W. The Woodford Rly. Stat, is midway
between Woodford Green and Woodford
Bridge. Hearts, or Harts, N. of Woodford
Green (J. Spicer, Esq.), is a good old
house, built in 1617 by Sir Humphrey
Handforth, Master of the Wardrobe to
James I. When hunting in the forest,
James was on several occasions enter
tained here by Sir Humphrey. Hearts
was afterwards the seat of Foot Onslow,
* Morant, Hist, of Essex, 1768, vol. i., p. 39.

father of the Speaker. Later it was the
seat of Richard Warner, who made the
grounds famous by his publication,
' Plantse Woodfordiensis,' 1771, to which
Forster published ' Additions ' in 1784.
Warner was also distinguished as a book-
collector, for his critical knowledge of
Shakspeare, and by translations from
Plautus; and did what he could to ad
vance and perpetuate after his death the
tastes he cultivated in life, by bequeath
ing his fine library to Wadham College,
Oxford, and a sum of money for founding
a botanical lectureship.
Ray House, Snake's Lane, W. of Wood
ford Bridge (G. T. Benton, Esq.), was the
seat of the Clevelands and Hannots, and
was purchased in 1770 by Sir James
Wright, Bart., Governor of Virginia, and
afterwards minister at Venice, who, " at
a great expense," estabUshed here a manu
factory of artificial slates, by a process
he had learned at Venice. The slates were
light and fireproof, and the manufacture
excited much interest, but was commer
cially unsuccessful, and after several years'
perseverance was abandoned.
Grove House,W. of the ch.,was another
interesting old house. Tradition said it
was a hunting lodge of Robert Devereux,
Earl of Essex, but there is no other au
thority for the assertion. It was spacious
and some of the rooms were large and
curiously fitted. One, known as the ball
room, had on the walls 12 paintings in
tempera of landscapes and subjects of
rural life — the "water- work" for the walls
Falstaff recommends to Mrs. Quickly as
a substitute for her tapestry. The house
was taken down in 1832, and the site and
grounds built over.
Higham Court (F. Puckridge, Esq.) is
a large square brick mansion, with wings,
built in the last cent, by Anthony Bacon,
and sold by him to Governor Hornby,
The house stands high, the grounds are
extensive and well planted, and the pros
pects much admired. Monkhams (H. F.
Barclay, Esq.), on the slope of Buckhurst
Hill, is another mansion noted for its site,
prospects, and grounds. Other good seats
are Knighton House (Edw. North Buxton,
Esq.) ; Claybury Hall, 8. of Woodford
Bridge ; Elmshurst (Harrison Smith,
Esq.) ; The Manor House, Woodford
Wells (Thos. Read, Esq.) ; Tiie SJirubbery
(Barclay Reynolds, Esq.) 47

WOODMANSTERNE.

738

WOODMANSTERNE.

Among the eminent inhabitants of
Woodford, Holy George Herbert is as
signed a prominent place ; but he was a
visitor rather than inhabitant : —
" About the year 1629, and the 34th of his age,
Mr. Herbert was seized with a sharp quotidian
ague, and thought to remove it by a change of air ;
to which end he went to Woodford in Essex, led
out thither more chiefly to enjoy the company of
his beloved brother, Sir Henry Herbert, and other
friends then of that family. In his house he
remained about- twelve months and there became
his own physician. " *
William Master, rector of Woodford
1660-84, was author of ' Drops of Myrrhe,'
and of a volume of Moral and Theological
essays. Nicholas Lockyer, who succeeded
Rous as Provost of Eton, and was ejected
at the Restoration for nonconformity,
spent his last years at Woodford, where
he died in 1685. James Greenwood,
author of a collection of poems entitled
' The Virgin Muse,' and of other works, was
a schoolmaster at Woodford. The Rev.
Thomas Maurice, the learned author of
' Indian Antiquities,' translator of the
' (Edipus Tyrannus,' and assistant libra
rian at the British Museum, was for
several years curate of Woodford. The
Rev. Sydney Smith was born at Woodford
in 1771.
WOODMANSTERNE, Surrey,
(Dom. Odemerestor ; anc. Wodemere-
thorne, Wodemerstcn, and Woodmanston,)
a secluded Uttle village on the Surrey
Downs, IJ m. E. from Banstead vill., and
2 J m. E. from the Banstead Stat, of the
Epsom Downs branch of the L., Br., and
S. C. Rly., 16 m. from London by road.
Pop. 276.
The lit Je village is on the highest part
of the Banstead Downs. Local authorities
say that the floor of the Rectory is on a
level with the cross of St. Paul's. The
Downs are delightful — whether for a stroll
or a gallop — and afford views of great
extent and some variety. The vill. lies
quite away from any main road. The
occupations are agricultural and pastoral.
The Church (St. Peter) is small, plain,
and unassuming. Old, but much altered,
and the exterior covered with plaster,
and splashed to imitate granite, it hardly
looked the model village ch., but within
the last few years it has been repaired
* Isaac Walton, Life of George Herbert.

and somewhat improved in appearance.
It comprises nave and chancel, with
wooden bell-cote and short shingled spire.
The interior is neat, has open benches,
and the Perp. windows have painted glass
— some of it old.
Among the seats, one is a house of fame
— The Oaks, which gave its name to the
Ladies' Stakes at Epsom. The house
was originally built as a club and meeting
house during the hunting season by
" the Hunters' Club." It was afterwards
occupied by SU- Thomas Gosling, the
banker, and then by Lieut.-General Bur-
goyne, who enlarged the house, improved.
the grounds, and built a dining hall that
excited much admiration. Burgoyne
transferred the lease to his father-in-law,
Edward, 11th Earl of Derby, whose parties
made the house famous. Of these the
most celebrated was the Fete Champetre
— the first in England under that name —
given in June 1774, in honour of the
approaching nuptials of Lord Stanley,
grandson of the Earl, with the only
daughter of the Duke of Hamilton and
Brandon. " Th e Duke of Devonshire and Georgiana Spencer
were married on Sunday : and this month Lord
Stanley marries Lady Betty Hamilton. He gives
her a most splendid entertainment to-morrow at
his villa [The Oaks] in Surrey, and calls it a FHe
champetre. It will cost £5000. Everybody is to
go in masquerade but not in mask. He has bought
all the orange-trees round London, and the hay-.
cocks, I suppose, are to be made of straw-coloured
satin." *
The fete was very splendid and very
successful. A large proportion of the
fashionable world was there. Besides the
minuets and country dances of the visitors,
a corps of ballet dancers was brought
down from the Opera House with the
ballet master as director; and General
Burgoyne wrote for the occasion a Sylvan
Masque, in honour of the bride-eleet,
entitled, ' The Maid of the Oaks.' The
rooms were splendidly illuminated, and
the trees in the grounds and gardens
hung with festoons of flowers, and myriads
of coloured lamps, some thousands of
persons being admitted as spectators of
the festival. Nor was the pubUc curiosity
sated with the display. Garrick repro
duced General Burgoyne's masque as an
operatic drama at Drury Lane, with a
* H. Walpole to Sir Horace Mann, June 8, 1774;
Letters, vol. vi, p. 88.

WOODMANSTERNE.

739

WOOLWICH.

briUiant representation of the scene at
The Oaks, and the piece had a great
run ; the ' Gentleman's Magazine ' gave an
elaborate account of the proceedings, and
large and costly engravings were published
by Grignion and Caldwell of the interiors
of the ball and supper rooms. But
the ending was hardly so happy. The
Maid of the Oaks died on the 14th of
March, 1797, and the Earl of Derby
married, as his second wife, Miss Farren,
the actress, on the following 1st of May.
The Earl of Derby continued The Oaks
as a sporting seat ; kept there a pack of
stag-hounds; and maintained great hos
pitality, holding more than 50 bed-cham
bers at the service of his guests.
" May 2~th, 1S33.— I went to the Oaks on Wed
nesday, where Lord Derby kept house, for the first
and probably (as the house is for sale) for the last I
time. It is a very agreeable place, with an odd
sort of house built at different times and by dif
ferent people ; but the outside is covered with ivy
and creepers, which is pretty, and there are two
good living rooms in it. Besides this there is an
abundance of grass and shade ; it has been for
thirty or forty years the resort of all our old jockeys
and is now occupied by the sporting portion of the
Government. We had Lord Grey ajid his daughter,
Duke and Duchess of Bichmond, Lord and Lady
Errol Althorp, Graham, Uxbridge, Charles Grey,
Duke of Grafton, Lichfield and Stanley's brothers.
It passed off very well— racing all the morning, an
excellent dinner, and whist and blind hookey in
the evening." *
The Earl of Derby died Oct. 21, 1834,
and the estate was transferred to Sir
Charles Grey. In 1842 it was sold to
Joseph Smith and John Jones, Esq.,
brothers-in-law, who made it their joint
residence. It is now the property of
Joseph Smith, Esq., lord of the manor of
Woodmansterne, but is at present (May
1876) advertised for sale.
The name of The Oaks is said to have
been taken from a grove of ancient oaks
called Lambert's Oaks, after the Lambert
family who owned the estate. The Lam
berts were said to have lived and held pro
perty in Woodmansterne "in regular
descent ever since the Conquest." Mrs.
Lambert, the last of the name, resided in
the house by the ch. within the last 20
years. „ _.
Other good seats are— the Manor House
<H. A. Wedd, Esq.), a quaint old mansi ion
by the church; 'Court Heme (Mrs. Mil-
died) ; Stagbury (Rev. T. Walpole) ; and
Fairlawn House (Fredk. Chapman, EsqQ
* Greville' Journal, voL ii., p. 374.

WOOLWICH, Kent, (A.-S.
Wulewic, Dom. Hulviz*), a garrison town,
the seat of the Royal Arsenal, and a
member of the Parliamentary borough of
Greenwich, is situated on the rt. bank of
the Thames, 8 m. from London by road,
10 m. by water. The Mid-Kent line of
the S.-E. Rly. has Stats, at the Dockyard
and Arsenal. The Grt. E., N. London,
and L. and N.-W. Rlys. run trains to
North Woolwich, and thence steam-ferries
to Woolwich Pier ; and steamboats run
regularly through the clay from the West
minster and City piers to Woolwich. Pop.
of the Pari, borough 34,162 ; of the parish
35,557, of whom 41 10 were miUtary. Inns,
Crown and Anchor, High Street; Royal
Mortar, by the Arsenal gates, Beres-
ford Square; King's Arms, near the
Barracks; Cambridge, by the Dockyard
Station. Nearly half the area of Woolwich par.
is on the Essex side of the Thames, con
stituting what is now the eccl. dist. of
North Woolwich ; whence arose the
local proverb or witticism, " More wealth
passes through Woolwich than any other
town (or parish) in the world," referring
to the ships that sail along the Thames
between the two halves of the par.
Woolwich is commonly spoken of as
having been at no very remote period
merely " a small fishing village," but from
an early date Woolwich had a weekly
market, which by an Act of 1807 was
made to be held twice a week, Wednesdays
and Saturdays. Apart from the Dockyard
and Arsenal, the history of the town is a
blank. The parish is held to be within
the royal manor of Eltham, but the sub-
manor of Southall in Woolwich was early

* Mr. Taylor (Words and Places, p. 164), assign-
in" the name to the Danes, explains it— "Wool
wich the hill reach, so called apparently from its
being overhung by the conspicuous landmark ot
Shooter's Hill." This may be correct, but when he
adds in a note, "The etymology is confirmed by
the fact that Woolwich is written Hulviz m Domes
day " we feel that he is on unsafe ground. A
comparison of the names in Domesday with the
earUer A.-S. forms shows that hi a large number
of instances the Domesday spelling— at first sight
often very startling— is merely the attempt ot a
Norman clerk to represent the, to him, strange
English pronunciation. The English called Wool
wich, Wulewic (which we are afraid will not help
Mr. Taylor's etymology); this the Norman scribe re
presented by Hulviz, just as in the 17th cent, we
find a French ambassador writing Oulmnlton for
Wimbledon (see p. 701).

WOOLWICH.

740

WOOLWICH.

aUenated, and has passed through a great
number of undistinguished hands.
The Town owes its growth and import
ance to the foundation and progress of
the Royal Dockyard and Arsenal. Apart
from these, it is singularly uninteresting.
It extends for over two miles along the
Thames, but for nearly all the way the
Dockyard and Arsenal are between it and
the river, and where they are not the
streets are low, narrow, and dirty. The
High Street, and the streets which diverge
from it, are alike narrow, irregular, and
lined with mean brick "dwellings and
small shabby shops. Larger shops are
intermingled with the small ones, but
hardly in sufficient numbers or close
enough together to relieve the dull mo
notony. The pubUc buildings are few
and mean ; the churches poor ; there are
Uterary and other institutes, but they
occupy inconspicuous buildings ; the banks
make no show ; the theatre looks dirty
and degraded ; and though there are
many inns and some hotels, none are
even moderately good. Outside the town
there are, however, good houses, and about
Woolwich Common some noteworthy
buildings. Two newspapers are pubUshed
weekly. The Town HaU and Police Court
stand together in Wellington Street. The
open Market-place is in the High Street.
The parish Church (St. Mary Magdalen)
stands on Church Hill, the highest ground
by the river, midway between the Arsenal
and Dockyard, and is conspicuous from
the river as well as from many parts of
the town. It is of brick, quite devoid of
ornament or distinctive feature, except
the ugly square W. tower. It was built
in 1733-40, as one of the fifty new churches
erected in pursuance of the Act 9 and 10
of Queen Anne : the old ch. stood a few
yards N. of the present building. It has
nave, aisles, and chancel ; the interior
" is fitted up in the Grecian style," with
galleries supported on pillars of the Ionic
order. There are no monts. of interest.
In the northern part of the ch.-yard Ues
Andrew Schalch, from 1716 to his death
in 1776 director of the gun^ foundry,
whose name is intimately associated with
the early history of the Royal Arsenal ;
and near him is buried Henry Maudslay,
d. 1831, the engineer, who was a native
of Woolwich, and began life as a powder
boy in the Arsenal. The most conspicuous

mont. in the ch. part of the burial-ground
(E. of the ch.) — marked by a colossal Uon
resting his fore-paw on an urn — is that
of Thomas Cribb, b. 1781, d. May 8, 1848.
This was the "Tom Cribb, the champion"
of the pugiUstic ring. " A great man,"
as Byron wrote of him, " and converses
weU . . . very facetious though somewhat
prolix." * He began life as a coal-heaver,
was a sailor and in actions at sea, turned
pugiUst and publican, and I fear, adds
Byron, sinner, and died at Woolwich,.
" the respectable and respected " proprietor
of a baker's shop in the High Street.
Holy Trinity Church, Beresford Street,
by the entrance gates of the Royal Arsenal,
is a bald semi-classic white brick building,
with Ionic portico, erected about 1834. It
serves as a chapel-of-ease to the mother
ch. St. John's, Wellington Street, is a
district ch., E.E. of the year 1847. St.
Thomas, Maryon Road, New Charlton, is
also a district ch. ; and of a better type
of Gothic. There are besides St. George's,
Garrison ch., Woolwich Common, to be
further noticed presently ; the Dockyard
ch., built by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1859
— the best Gothic building in the town ;
and the Arsenal and the Ordnance chapels.
Denominational places of worship are
very numerous, but they are almost with
out exception devoid of architectural
character or historical interest.
The Royal Dockyard, extending along '
the Thames for about a mile on the W.
side of Woolwich, like that at Deptford '
(see p. 141), was founded early in the
reign of Henry VIII. There has been
some question as to which was the first '
dockyard and naval station, but they were
called into existence by the same circum
stances, and seem to have been as nearly
contemporaneous in their beginning as
they were in their close. It is certain,
however, that the great ' Harry-grace-a-
Dieu,' which has been assigned both to
Erith and Deptford, was really built at
Woolwich, payments for " shippewrights,
and other officers working upon the
Kinges great shippe caUed the Harry-
grace-a-Dieu at Wolwiche," and for the *
materials used in its construction, being
regularly entered, from the 4th December,
1512, in a book kept for the purpose, and
now deposited in the Record Office. The
* Moore, Life of Byron, vol. ii., p. 277.

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" summa totalis of this Boko " amounts to
£6472 8s. Ojrf., but timber is not charged
for, that being supplied by various
monasteries and other corporate bodies,
and noblemen and bishops, whose names,
with the particulars of then- several gifts,
are duly specified. The King often
visited the ship whilst it was building,
and John Wodowse, " steward in the
Henry-grace-a-Dieu " is paid 16d. for
" creme by him purveied at sundry tymes
for the Kinges grace " when he came to
Woolwich. The great ship was launched
in Oct. 1515, in presence of the King and
Queen, and ¦' well nigh aU the lords and
prelates of the kingdom, and aU dined on
board at the Kinges charge." The Great
Harry, as she was called, was of 1500 tons
burden, and when launched it took 400
men i days to work her to Barking.
Before the launch took place we find
(April 1515) entries of charges for bring
ing the Sovereign " from Erith to Wool
wich and so into her Dock," and in 1521 it
is reported that "the Sovereign, being of
the portage of 800 tons, lyeth in a Dock
at Woolwich." Clearly, therefore, Wool
wich was by this time estabUshed as a
naval dockyard as well as a building-yard.
The progress of the royal yard was pro
bably slow, but in 1546 the King pur
chased of Sn- Edward Boughton two
parcels of land caUed Boughton's Docks,
and two other parcels called Our Lady HiU
and Sand Hill, for its extension. Queen
Elizabeth witnessed, May 3rd, 1559, the
launch of a great ship which had been
bunt at Woolwich, and to which she gave
her name. The Royal Sovereign, a splen
didly decorated vessel of 1637 tons, and
pierced for 116 guns, which distinguished
itself so much under the ParUamentary
eaptains as to win from the Dutch the
name of 'The Golden Devil,' was built
here in the reign of Charles I.,and launched
Oct. 7, 1637.
In Charles II.'s time there was a great
deal of work done at Woolwich Dock
yard, which included also a VictualUng
and Rope-yard. Pepys as Clerk of the
Acts of the Navy, with the regulation
of the Dockyards devolving upon him,
was often at Woolwich, examining the
houses, stores, and ships, and doing there
"a great deal of business," though he
at first found the stores " in very great
confusion for want of store-houses.'

The Rope-yard greatly interested him,
and appears to have been even then
of considerable extent. He looked care
fully into the various processes, and the
modes of " working and experiments of
the strength, and the charge in the dressing
of every sort," which he was able to bring
" to so great a certainty " as to " have
done the King some service in it," but
comes to the sorrowful conclusion — " I
see it is impossible for the King to have
things done so cheap as other men " — very
much as dockyard experience in our own
day teaches.
When the Dutch threatened the Thames,
9 large ships with their loads on board
were hurriedly sunk " in the river off
Woolwich to prevent their coming up
higher if they should attempt it," and
batteries were thrown up, " which, indeed,
are good works to command the River
below the ships that are sunk, but not
above them. It is a sad sight to see so
many good ships there sunk in the River,
while we would be thought masters of the
sea." *
Prince Rupert was placed in command
at Woolwich, and constructed a battery
of 60 guns. The passage in the rear of it,
where is now the Control Wharf, was long
known as Prince Rupert's Walk. The
Prince was probably much at Woolwich,
and the building on the W. side of the
Arsenal, now used as the Laboratory
Museum, is said to have been erected by
him, and used as his residence. It is more
probable that it was built for the use of
Charles II. and the Duke of York on their
frequent visits to the Dockyard. By it
was a lofty tower or observatory, known
as Prince Rupert's Tower, demolished in
1786. Great additions were made to the works
in the latter part of the 18th cent., and
new building slips, docks, and mast ponds
were constructed. But the protraction of
hostilities created an ever-growing demand
for ships of war and warlike stores, and
Woolwich Dockyard was in the early part
of the 19th cent, again greatly enlarged
and improved. The skill of the Bennies
(father and sons) was called into requisi
tion ; new granite wharfs and docks, and
immense ranges of workshops and ware
houses, were constructed, and the dockyard
* Pepys, Diary, vol. iv., p. 87.

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became one of the most extensive and
complete in existence. Then came steam
and iron, and the docks and workshops
were again remodelled under Sir John
Rennie, a great steam reserve basin, two
building slips for first-rates, mast slip,
and river wall were constructed at a
' cost of £300,000, and powerful machinery
erected. Woolwich Dockyard was as
much a model establishment for building
and fitting the giant iron war-steamer as
it had been for the wooden first-rate.
It could not, however, keep pace with the
growth of the armour-clad ships. Vessels
of such enormous tonnage could not,
without increasing risk and difficulty, be
launched in so shallow and crowded a
river, and economy and convenience
alike pointed to the importance of con
centrating as much as possible our great
naval yards. A Parliamentary Committee
(1864) recommended that the dockyards at
Deptford and Woolwich should be closed.
Their recommendation was adopted,
and, the works on hand being completed,
Deptford was closed as a dockyard in
May 1869, and Woolwich on the 17th of
Sept., 1869. A small portion of the yard
has been sold ; the rest has been trans
ferred to the War Department of the
Government, andisused for stores, — build
ing slips, basins, and factories, as weU as
warehouses being adapted to the purpose.
The torpedo stores, including the multiform
cases, insulating wfre, and all the varied
apparatus, are now deposited here. Oc
casionally a dock is lent for the repair or
temporary housing of a vessel, where
private yards are not available, as in the
case of the BrazUian war-steamer injured
,in the unsuccessful attempt to launch, and
a recently launched Turkish man-of-war.
The Royal Aesenal stretches for a
mile along the Thames E. of the Dockyard.
It is the only arsenal in the kingdom; the
smaller establishments at the other dock
yards are called gun-wharfs, and receive
their supplies from Woolwich. To see the
Arsenal is usually the chief object of a
visit to Woolwich, and few establishments
are better worth a visit. It is necessary,
however, that an order be first obtained
from the War Office, Pall Mall. On
either the written or personal application
of a British subject (a foreigner must ap
ply through the consul or representative
of his country), a card will be given for

admission any Tuesday or Tlmrsday within
14 days from the day of issue. Tiie hours
of admission are from 10 till \-past 11 in
the forenoon, and from 2 till \-past i in
the afternoon : but the visitor who may
find the morning hours too short — as he
assuredly wiU if he makes even a cursory
examination of the principal works — may,
by mentioning his intention when he gives
up his card on leaving the Arsenal, return
at 2 o'clock, and continue his studies till
i-past 4 or 5. And this he wUl find his
best course. A day industriously employed
will be only too short for an inteUigent
examination of the marvels of the Arsenal.
There is no official guide to the Arsenal ;
the best substitute is Mr. W. T. Vincent's
' Warlike Woolwich : a History and Guide,'
1875. Until questioned recently by Lieut,
Grovcr,* a somewhat romantic legend was
generally accepted as to the foundation of
the Royal Arsenal at Woolwich. On the
10th of May, 1716, there was to be a great
casting of cannon at Mr.Bagley's foundry,
Moorfields, the Master-General of the
Ordnance having directed that the cannon
taken by the Duke of Marlborough should
be recast. The principal officers of the
Ordnance and a numerous assembly were
present. Among the visitors was a young
German, Andrew Schalch, of Schaff-
hausen, a journeyman founder, traveUing
according to the custom of his country
prior to working as master. Schalch,
observing that the inside of the mould
was damp, called the attention of Col.
Armstrong, the Surveyor-General, to it,
and warned him that if the metal were
poured into it while in that state an explo-
sionwould inevitably occur. No notice was
taken of the warning ; Schalch withdrew ;
and the explosion happened as he had pre
dicted . The master-founder and his son, the
Clerk of the Ordnance, and 14 other persons
were killed, or so much burnt that they
died shortly afterwards. General Borgard
was among the injured, but recovered.
Inquiry was made for the young German,
but he could not be found. Advertise
ments were then issued requesting the
" young foreigner " to call on Col. Ann-
strong, " as the interview might be for his

* Historical Notes on the Royal Arsenal at Wool
wich. By Lieut. G. E. Grover, R.E. (Proc. of
B.A. Institution), 1S69.

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advantage." He did call ; inquiries re
specting his capacity and character were
satisfactory ; he was appointed master
founder, and directed to choose a spot
within 12 miles of London suitable for a
new foundry and gun factory. He selected
the Warren at Woolwich, on account of the
abundance of loam in the neighbourhood
suitable for making the moulds, and its
proximity to the river affording facilities
fortransport. The selection was approved.
Vanbrugh designed the foundry, and the
works were speedily brought into opera
tion. This, it is added, was the origin of
the Royal Arsenal.
It is a pretty story, but it is not true.
The explosion undoubtedly happened as
¦stated, but neither in General Borgard's
account of the accident, the official
minute book, or the notices in the news
papers, does Schalch's name occur in con
nection with it ; nor has the most diUgent
search brought to Ught the advertisement
so specificaUy described. The earliest
¦version of the story that has been dis
covered in which Schalch plays any part
was printed in 1802.
In fact the Arsenal, though under
another name, was in existence long
before the explosion at Moorfields.
Lysons, writing from official informa
tion, says " the Gun-Wharf at Woolwich
is of very ancient date ; it formerly occu
pied what is now the site of the market
place. When removed to the Warren,
where it now is, it was for some time
called by that name, but is now called
the Arsenal, or Royal Arsenal." Its name
in the 17th cent, was the Tower Place.
Between 1668 and 1695 the guns and
artillery stores were removed to it from
Deptford and the Tower of London; a
laboratory and workshops were erected ;
and proofing parapets and butts for
artillery practice formed. A plan of the
Royal Warren, made by General Borgard
in 1701, and now in the Royal MiUtary
Repository, shows laboratory, powder
house, "firework barne," carriage yards,
shot yards, shot piles, gun and mortar
"for experiments," proof parapets and
lutts, master-gunner's and storekeepers
louses, smiths' shops, and the various
other requisites of an arsenal. The gun-
foundry was estabUshed at Woolwich after
the Moorfield's explosion, but it was -in
consequence of "the most experienced

officers " being of opinion that " the
Government ought to have a foundry
of their own," and the Tower Place,
Woolwich, was fixed on because of the
vicinity of the gun-wharf and proofing
butts. The site having been chosen, and the
gun -foundry commenced, an advertise
ment was inserted in the ' London
Gazette ' of July 10, 1716, notifying
that " all founders as are desirous to
cast Brass Ordnance are to give in their
proposals forthwith," etc. To this adver
tisement Schalch replied, his testimonials
and references proved satisfactory, and he
was appointed master-founder at a salary
of £5 a week. This post he held for 60
years; he died at Charlton in 1776, set.
84, and was buried, as we have seen, in
Woolwich ch.-yard.
It is unnecessary to foUow the progress
of the Arsenal. During the French wars
of the last and the first 15 years of the
present century, it grew to be a place of
great extent and importance ; but the
tools and processes were comparatively
primitive, and it is only since the intro
duction of machinery that any great
advance has been made. Indeed the
most remarkable development has taken
place within the last 25 years, and has
been a consequence of the rapid improve
ment in artillery and the materials of
war, and in armour plates and the means
of defence.
Without including the powder magazines
in Woolwich Marshes, the Arsenal as now
constituted occupies an area of 333 acres,
about half of which is in Plumstead parish.
Within the Arsenal are made the heavy
artillery for our land and sea service, the
carriages on which they are borne, the
shot, sheU, and cartridges with which
they are fed, the ammunition for our
small arms, the torpedoes that are to
protect our coasts, and whatever, in fact,
is included under the name of material of
war. It is also the great repository and
storehouse, as well as manufactory, of
guns and warlike materials. Usually
about 10,000 workpeople are employed
in the Arsenal, but in " busy times," as
during the Crimean war, the number
reaches 14,000.
As now arranged, the Royal Arsenal
comprises four departments : the Labora
tory ; the Gun Factories ; the Carriage

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744

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Department ; the Stores, or Control De
partment. These we proceed to notice,
of necessity briefly, but sufficiently to
indicate their extent and distinctive
features. The buildings, erected at
different times for manufacturing and
warehousing purposes, make no preten-
siod to architectural style or symmetry,
but without any very scientific grouping,
appear to have arranged themselves in a
tolerably convenient manner. Broadly
it may be said that the Laboratory occu
pies the W. side of the Arsenal, the Gun
Factories the E., the Carriage Depart
ment the S., and the Store or Control
Department the N., whilst there is some
intermingling of the first three in the
centre : one great section of the Laboratory
Department, the Composition Establish
ment, where the explosive compositions are
prepared, and caps, shells, and cartridges
fiUed, is placed altogether apart from and
E. of the Arsenal proper, with which we
are at present concerned. A Narrow-
guagc Tramway traverses every part of
the Arsenal, and is carried to the Cannon
Cartridge Factory and Powder Magazines
far away in the Marshes. It has a gauge
of only 18 inches, and the Uttle locomotive,
with its goods trucks or passenger cars,
turns the sharpest curve easily, safely, and
silently. The whole is formed of solid
slabs of wrought iron, with grooves for
the wheels of the engine and carriages to
run in. Projecting rails would have been
not only inconvenient but dangerous in
the level ways of an establishment like
the Arsenal. The grooves offer no impedi
ment, and they are equaUy available for
hand and horse trucks. The saving of
labour effected by the tramway is enor
mous. It is said to have repaid the cost
of construction and material in a year.
It was wholly made within the Arsenal.
The Laboratory, which lies before you
to the 1. after passing through the entrance
gates, may be conveniently visited first.
To reach it you pass the old Brass Gun
Foundry, Vanbrugh's original building,
but of course much altered. Brass guns
are no longer made, but the old foundry,
with its odd cannon-shaped chimneys and
great furnace, is preserved as a reUc. The
Laboratory Workshop is generally visited
first, but it is better to begin with the
Laboratory Pattern Room, or Museum,
which contains patterns, duplicates, or

models of all the objects made by the
department. Here are the old bar and
chain shot, grape shot, and shells of obso
lete patterns side by side with the formid
able PalUser shot and shell, broken, to
show the remarkable alteration which the
metal undergoes in the process of chilling,
and the destructive shrapnell, the con
struction of which is made clear by sec
tions. Cartridges and fuzes whole and
in section, and not least noticeable the
great sack-like cartridges, nearly 4 ft.
high and 250 lb. weight, that feed the
monster 81-ton gun. The ' grains ' of pow
der in these are cubes of 1-5, 1-7, or 2 inches
each, about the bulk of a moderate potato.
A great variety of torpedoes, with buoys
and connected apparatus. Models of
rockets and rocket-apparatus, ahke for
saving and destroying life. The very
curious Boxer parachute light shell, a
section of which exhibits the ingenious
way in which the parachute is packed
into the upper half of a spherical shell,
while the light-giving composition fiUs
the lower. When discharged, the time-
fuze ignites the composition ; this causes
the outer halves of the shell to fall away;
the parachute expands, and the apparatus
floats in the air, casting a brilliant light
over the enemy's quarters. An example of
the shell in this state, with the parachute
f uUy expanded, is suspended from the ceil
ing. The Gatling, an improved mitrailleuse
of great power, adapted by the military
authorities for special service, wiU be
observed with interest. There is besides
a great number and variety of modern as
weU as obsolete warUke appUances, and
descriptive labels enable even the un
initiated civilian to appreciate their, pecu
liarities. The Laboratory Workshop, or Main
Factory, is, however, the chief attraction
in this department. It is situated between
the Brass Gun Factory and the Pattern
Museum, and is said to be the largest
workshop under one roof in existence.
It wiU at once remind the visitor of the
great ' Action.Room ' at the Enfield Small
Arms Factory (see p. 183), but is larger,
though, as it seemed to us, not so wide as
that remarkable room. It is hard to say
in which the extent, complexity, and
ingenuity of the machines, and the orderly
working of the whole, are the more ad
mirable. Here there are said to be over

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745

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600 machines of various kinds in opera
tion, most of them to a great extent
automatic, motion being given to them
by some 4000 feet of revolving shafts
overhead. The Martini-Henry bullet is made in
this shop at the rate of a miUion a
week, but the machines are capable of
turning out thrice that number. After
leaving the furnace, the molten metal, a
mixture of lead and tin, is driven by
hydraulic pressure through an aperture
in the top of the lead-squirting machine,
and issues in the form of an endless rod
the thickness of the buUet. This is coiled
as it issues, and conveyed to the bullet
machine, which cuts off a piece of the pro
per length, compresses one end into a cone
and hollows the other, and drops it into
a box below a perfectly formed bullet. A
second machine, of Uke simplicity and
rapidity of action, makes the grooves, or
cannelures, round the bullet, and completes
it. The various solid parts of rockets, fuzes,
discs for cartridges, and many other
articles, are wrought here by the aid of
machines of more or less ingenuity and
beauty; and as all the parts of every
instrument are interchangeable, all have
to undergo a system of gauging which,
however various, is in every instance
simple and rapid in appUcation, and as
interesting to watch as the motions of the
machines. Close by is the Cap Factory, where
percussion caps required for the car
tridges are made with marveUous celerity.
Ribbons of copper pass swiftly through a
machine which at one blow punches out
circular discs, and shapes them into
straight-sided caps, the ribbon emerging
in the semblance of a Jacquard card, the
caps falling into a box below. Each
machine produces 30,000 caps an hour.
At other machines boys feed with both
hands these caps, the closed end down
wards, into suitable receptacles, a punch
descends upon them, forms the projecting
lip, and deUvers them as finished caps :
with a nimble-fingered feeder, each ma
chine completes 60,000 caps a day. Paper
discs for the cartridges are made by
machines like those which make the metal
discs. Other machines make the plugs
of compressed clay now fitted to the base
of the buUets. Others, again, make the
anvils and cups which fit into the caps.

The finished caps must be exactly of the
same size, and are rapidly gauged. The
gaugcr has a brass plate pierced with 1000-
holes of the right size ; this he drives
into a box of caps, and with a turn of the
wrist, the holes are at once filled, and all
with caps of the right calibre. The plate
is turned to the light, and any defective
cap instantly detected ; and thus, in a
hardly appreciable space of time, 100ft
caps are gauged and counted.
The Rifle Shot and Shell Factory be
longs to this department, though situated
some distance E. of the other laboratory
buildings. It is a large and rather orna
mental structure, and will be distinguished
by the great chimney-shaft of its fur
naces, which rises 220 ft. high in the
rear of the main building. Here, whilst
the furnaces, and the easy nonchalant
way in which the molten iron is carried
about in buckets, will most astonish those
unaccustomed to visit great foundries, the
feature of greatest interest is the casting-
of the PalUser shells. These shells are
intended to pierce the thickest armour
plates ; the point therefore has to be of
the intensest hardness, the body at once
hard and brittle, so that after piercing the
plate it may break up into a shower of
fragments. To attain this double quaUty
the point of the mould is an " iron chill,"
the body of sand, the object being that
the point shall cool rapidly, the body
more slowly. The moulds are arranged
vertically in circles ; by means of a crane
and cradle the molten iron is poured in j
the holes for the studs are made by a
special mechanism ; and after standing
till the metal is set, the moulds are carried
to the cooling ground, and buried for two
days to ensure the gradual cooling neces
sary to the perfection of the implement-
The shells being now too hard to be.
smoothed or brought to gauge by even the
most powerful lathes, grindstones of enor
mous size, and of course worked by steam,
are employed. Other machines test them ;
steam them preparatory to japanning the
insides ; drive in and trim the bronze
studs whioh fit into the rifle grooves of
the great guns, and do apparently aUthat
is necessary to prepare the shells to receive
their deadly charge.
The Saw Mills, with their wonderful
array of circular, vertical, and horizontal.
saws ; and the Carpenters' shop, with its,

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746

WOOLWICH.

planing and dovetailing machines ; the
¦Coopers' Shop and the Tinmans', however
interesting to the mechanic, wiU probably
be passed over by the visitor. One shop
just by (Shed 45) he would probably like
to look into, when told that there the
Whitehead fish, or some other mysterious
torpedo, is in process of incubation : but
the door is hermetically closed against a
stranger ; the most he can hope for is to
be in the way at the right moment to
catch a gUmpse of the monster as emerg
ing from his lurking-place, he makes his
hasty way (by rail) to his " run " in the
marshes. The Gun Factcrries are usually the first
places to which an Emperor of Germany
or Russia, a Shah of Persia, or other
mighty potentate is conducted when he
visits Woolwich. In them are carried out
all the processes of making our field and
naval artiUery, from the light mountain
gun, 200 lb. in weight, to the giant of 81
tons. The guns on which attention is at
present most fixed are those known em
phatically as the Woolwich Guns, the
38-ton gun, the favourite for general ser
vice, which, with a charge of 130 lb., will
discharge a Palliser shell of 800 lb. with
an " initial velocity " of 1425 ft. per
second, or a force sufficient to carry it
through an armour plate 14 inches thick,
with all its wood and iron backing ; and
the 81 -ton gun, which, with a charge of
300 lb., will send a shot of 1460 lb. with
an initial velocity of 1540 ft. per second ;
and when enlarged, as it is to be, to a
calibre of 16 inches, will with tho full
charge send a projectile of 1650 lb. at a
muzzle velocity of 1470 ft., sufficient to
pierce, at 1000 yards' distance, armour-
plated vessels of 22 inches thickness. The
81-ton gun is 26 ft. 9 in. long, has a caUbre
of 15 inches (to be increased to 16 inches);
takes a charge of 310 lb. of gunpowder ;
and throws a shot of 1466 lb. (to be in
creased eventually to 1650 lb.)
The Woolwich Gun consists of a tube
¦of toughened steel ending in a massive
solid iron breech-piece, surrounded by
two or more coils of wrought iron, and a
jacket-piece which encloses the breech
end of the tube, and carries the trunnions.
The cost of the Woolwich Gun is about
£70 a ton ; the 81-ton gun is at present
exceptional. Visitors are usually taken first to the

Coiling Mills, and the coil is so distinc
tive and essential a feature of the Wool
wich Gun, that it is well to begin with it.
A furnace, 200 or 250 ft. long, extends
the whole length of the shop. In this a
bar of iron of the requisite length and
thickness (150 to 250 ft. long, 4 in. or 7 in.
thick) is heated to a white heat ; the end
is then fastened to a catch on the side of
a huge mandril which revolves in front of
the furnace door, and the bar winds round
it without hitch or hindrance till the
whole Ues coiled round the core like a
colossal armlet. Rolling and welding the
iron into these monster bars, preparatory
to the coiling, may be seen in other shops,
and are interesting as showing how en
tirely these great masses of molten and
red-hot metal are under control, and the
certainty and order with which the suc
cessive operations are conducted. By the
coiUng furnace is a huge pair of shears,
which clips off a piece of the 7-inch bar
as glibly and noiselessly as a tailor's
shears cuts through a piece of cloth.
FoUowing the great coil, the next stage.
brings us to the Great Furnace and the
Forty-Ton Hammer. These are in a large
building of corrugated iron, the hammer
being near the centre, the furnaces near
the ends. The great furnace, as big as a
moderate-sized dwelUng-house, has a door
way through which an omnibus might be
driven. The door, of fire-bricks in an iron
frame, weighs 7 tons, but sUdes open — it
is lifted by steam and hydrauUc pressure
— seemingly with as much ease as an
ordinary door, or, what it more resembles,
an iron shutter. In order to bring the
coil to welding heat, it remains in the
furnace, heated many times more than
Nebuchadnezzar's, from one to three days,
the " jacket-piece " which carries the trun
nions requiring an exposure of 60 hours.
Let us turn now to the Forty-Ton
Hammer. The name is given to it be
cause the hammer, or falUng portion,
weighs within a few pounds of 40 tons ;
but that as Uttle represents the force of
the blow as the weight of an ordinary
hammer would the force of a blow from
it when wielded by a stalwart smith. The
actual or " striking fall " of the great
hammer is 15 ft. ; but by the injection of
steam into the cylinder above, it is driven
down with immensely increased force, the
impact being then equal to what it would

WOOLWICH.

747

•WOOLWICH.

be if the hammer fell of itself from a height
of 80 ft. To sustain this ponderous mass
aloft, with aU the connected apparatus,
requires an enormous framework. This
takes the form of two immense iron piers,
which at about 10 ft. from the ground bend
over to form an imperfect arch, open in
the centre for the rise and fall of the
hammer, and bearing the open turret-like
frame and apparatus. The whole height
is 45 ft. ; the base covers an area of 120
ft. square ; and the entire structure weighs
650 tons. But to support this structure,
the anvil, and the tremendous thumps of
the great hammer, requires a still bulkier
mass below, and foundations of unusual
magnitude. An area 30 ft. square was
obtained by driving 100 foot-square piles
18 ft. into the ground, at a depth of 15 ft.
from the surface. Concrete was poured
all round them, making a solid bed 42 ft.
square. Upon the piles were placed three
cast-iron plates, weighing together 115
tons ; upon these planks of rock elm,then
oak baulks, again plates of cast iron, and
so by stages — Uquid grouting being poured
between plates and timber, and concrete
aU around — it was buUt up to receive the
anvil-block, an enormous mass which
weighs 103 tons, and when cast took six
months to cool. The anvil itself, which
rests on this block, weighs 60 tons. The
entire weight of iron in the underground
foundation is about 660 tons. The hammer
was manufactured by Messrs. Nasmyth,
the patentees, and cost altogether about
£50,000. On either side of it is a corre
spondingly Titanic steam crane, worked
by friction gearing throughout, which can
lift 100 tons, and slew round with it with
perfect ease.
When the coil is sufficiently heated, an
enormous pair of tongs — they weigh some
50 or 60 tons, and take several men to
manoeuvre — is, with the aid of the ever-
ready crane overhead, brought in front of
the furnace. The door moves slowly up,
and the interior of the furnace stands re
vealed in aU its terrible majesty. An
Oriental prince to whom it was lately
shown, said, " It is the very gate of Hell;"
and the spectacle is indeed awe-inspiring.
But the workmen move about uncon
cernedly, regardless of the sight, and not
mastered by the heat, which at their dis
tance would seem to be unbearable. The
tongs are thrust into the midst of the fire,

the arms opened and brought together ;
there is a backward movement ; from the
centre streams out a fiercer and more
vivid glare, at first utterly intolerable to
the eye, but presently allowing you to see
the giant coil, an intense, glowing, upright
mass, slowly gliding forth from the midst
of the burning fiery furnace, and then
gently guided to its place on the anvil.
After two or three partial movements,
like the preliminary swayings of a smith,
the hammer slowly descends, and the coil
settles into form. The hammer is raised,
driven down, again and again, with in
creasing impetus, the vast coil visibly
shrinking, and sending forth showers of
sparks and flame, at every blow. When
the process has been carried far enough,
the tongs again clip hold of it, now
a red-hot cylinder rather than a coil,
lift it tenderly on to three blocks, give
it a slight trip, and lay it at length
on its back, as readily and softly as a
Westmoreland wrestler does his rival
champion at a feU-side gathering. But
here the prone giant is not left to recover
himself. He is rolled to the centre, and
his ribs unmercifully thumped. Again
set upright under the hammer, an enor
mous punch, a gauge, as it were, of the
interior, is driven into and through the
centre of the coil, and with a few more
parting taps the cylinder is completed.
Twenty-four large boUers furnish steam
for the great hammer, cranes, and rolling
mills. In other shops may be seen the boring
of the toughened steel tube which forms
the Uning of the great gun ; the rifling
of the tube, of aU the operations that,
perhaps, which requires the most skill
and watchfulness ; the cutting and fitting
the screws to the breech pieces, the
lapping, gauging, testing, and a great
many other processes.
The Turnery, close by the boring shop,
should on no account be left unvisited.
In it are 4 of the largest and finest turn
ing lathes yet made. At one, revolving
as easily between the centres as a hand
rail in a wood-turner's lathe, is seen per
haps the tube or breech-piece of a 38-ton
gun, or it may be the great gun itself,
shavings of the rough iron three or four
inches wide and J of an inch thick peeling
off as readily as though they were wood
shavings. But deUcate turnings are more

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common, and as effective, as these coarse
ones ; and aU are executed with a degree
of accuracy of which the ordinary turner
has no conception.
Turned, tempered, gauged, and tested,
the parts have to be fitted, by shrinking
on the outer coU upon the toughened tube
or inner cylinder. This with the great
guns is performed in the open an'. The
outer coil, the bore of which is smaller
than the outer diameter of that it has
to enclose, is made red-hot, expands, and
is lifted by the great hydraulic crane,
and dropped upon the inner cylinder and
set to cool — the process being hastened
by copious jets of water. The pressure
exerted by the shrinking mass in cooling
is so great that the inner cylinder would
be crushed out of shape but that it is
kept cool by a jet of water constantly
playing inside it.
The great operations, such as the roU-
ing, coiling, welding, and shrinking on,
of the several portions of the 81 -ton gun
are of course of comparatively infrequent
occurrence, and, as the presence of a
crowd of spectators is inconvenient, no
announcement is made of the hours at
which they are to take place, and the visi
tor must not reckon on witnessing them.
But he will see the machines, and in or
outside the shops he will see the various
parts of the great gun in their several
stages, and be able to form a tolerably
clear conception of the different processes.
But in other shops and forges he may see
the various processes themselves, though
on a smaller scale. Thus in the West or
Old Forge are two great hammers, one
of 12 tons, the other of 14 tons, at which
the operation of welding the coUs may
frequently and conveniently be witnessed.
In the Rifled Ordnance Factory aU the
operations of boring and rifling the steel
tube, turning, and the like, are constantly
in progress, and every variety of the
smaller ordnance of the service made.
The fittings are made in the upper rooms.
In the Uniting Furnaces, the short coils
used for lining old smooth-bore guns, and
converting them into rifled guns on the
Palliser system, are united, shrunk, and
toughened, by plunging at a regulated
temperature into a vertical bath of oil,
where they remain till cold.
After the guns are built up, bored, and
rifled, they are taken to the Sighting

Room, where they are fitted with the
sighting apparatus, go through the several
finishing processes, and leave the room
ready for service or store.
Having thus seen all the stages of
making a gun, the Pattern Room wiU be
visited with great interest. In this " sealed
patterns " — that is, exact dupUcates— are
exhibited of every kind of gun made
in the Arsenal, from the elegant little
7-pounder mountain gun to the giant of
12J or 20 tons. The Woolwich Infant,
38 ton, and 81 ton guns, are not yet in
duplicate here, but there are beautiful
sectional models showing their con
struction. Further, as he has seen the gun in its
germ, growth, and maturity, so he may if
he please visit what in the Arsenal is
designated its cemetery, an enclosure N.
of the Pattern Room and Proof Square,
overshadowed by a grove of elms. Here
in regular rows are deposited the remains
of the guns burst in testing and experi
menting, and over the worthiest are in
scriptions setting forth their age, condi
tions of service (number of rounds fired),
and the circumstances under which their
existence terminated.
The Royal Carriage Department is
hardly less interesting than either of the
preceding departments. In it are made
aU the gun carriages, limber equipments,
and the Uke required in the sea and land
services. It employs some thousand
hands, and has perhaps a greater variety
of automatic machinery than any other
department. The several parts of the
carriage may be traced here through
the successive stages of manufacture, in
the same manner as the gun, by one who
has time and attention to spare. We
can glance at but one or two of the salient
features. The large field will be noticed.
A great variety of woods Ue there, and
more down on the marsh. But of late
years in one and another division iron
has been supplanting timber, and thus
far it is believed with great advantage as
to cost and wear.
The Saw Mills contain some very in
genious tools. The great cross-cut saw,
7 ft. in diameter, which rises from the
floor, sUces off the rough end of a log of
timber in a trice, and then quietly sinks
out of sight, and the vertical saws, that cut
the log into planks, are curious; but the.

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WOOLWICH.

visitor will be more struck with the
endless band and ribbon saws, and oscil
lating platforms, in the Machine Shop
adjoining, where those marvellous im
plements adapt themselves to any line,
and cut wood, as in another room we
may see one of tougher fibre cut iron,
into any shape required. Other machines
in this shop for shaping, planing, boring,
and the like, are somewhat similar in plan
and purpose to those used for shaping
rifle butts and stocks at Enfield (see
p. 1S3) ; but here they are in greater
variety. Among the machines that par
ticularly deserve notice are the lathes,
which are of great excellence, and the
very ingenious riveting machines.
In the West Forge wiU be seen some
very pretty forging and stamping opera
tions under the steam hammer, the variety
of articles made being so great that it is
said the number of stamping tools exceeds
that in any other shop in the kingdom.
Nut and bolt forging by machinery may
also be witnessed. The finishing is carried
on in the room adjoining. The Main
Fm-ge is, however, the more remarkable.
It contains steam hammers, 60 forges,
3 furnaces, a powerful travelUng crane,
several large forging machines, duplex and
other planing machines, boring machines,
radial drilling and slotting machines, a
great variety of lathes, and a very clever
machine for fastening the brackets of
gun-carriages ; but the most novel and
attractive of all are De Bergue's shears,
a cutting and punching machine which
slices or punches holes through, or pieces
out of, plates of iron 2 inches thick with
the greatest ease and celerity. Here also
may be seen Moncrieff's gun carriage
and hydro-pneumatic apparatus, in which
the heaviest gun after discharging has
the recoU brought perfectly under control,
and the gun, after gliding with a stately
measured motion up the incline platform,
leturns of itself, slowly and almost grace-
fuUy, to its normal position.
The Wlteel Factory, in which wheels
are manufactured almost wholly by au
tomatic machinery, is the most generaUy
attractive section of the carriage depart
ment. In it, from rude blocks of wood,
the spokes, naves, and felloes are shaped
by means of steel guides (as rifle butts
and stocks are fashioned at Enfield),
smoothed, the tongues cut, a»d every

part finished by self-acting machines, and
turned out so exactly to gauge, that if at
any time a part is injured it may be re
moved and another at once substituted.
The finished parts are taken to what is
called the Shoeing Pit, and fitted rudely
together on a circular iron plate over a
tank. The tire is brought from a furnace
close by, and by a dexterous turn flattened
on the iron pavement. It is then lifted,
still red-hot, dropped over the wheel, and
by a few brisk blows driven into its place,
when the wheel with its tire sinks bodily
into the tank. The sudden plunge into
cold water causes the iron to contract
with such irresistible force as to compress
the tire irremovably upon the felloes, and
the whole together as though made of a
single piece.
In the Pattern Room, as in the Pattern
Rooms of the previous departments, are
finished duplicates of all the articles
manufactured in the shops.
The Stores, or Control Department,
comprises a very extensive range of build
ings extending along the greater part of
the river front of the Arsenal, with others
on the East Wharf and in the Marshes.
In them are stored, ready for immediate
use, war material of every kind, from
guns and gun-carriages, shot and sheU,
tents and military equipage, to pails,
brushes, and stable fittings. The supply
is constantly being drawn upon, and as
constantly replenished. In illustration
of the character of the department, the
more important visitor is usually con
ducted through the Harness Stores, in
which is a seemingly inexhaustible display
of saddles, bridles, collars, traces, bits,
curbs, and stirrups, all in perfect order,
and arranged with no little taste — the
stirrups, for example, being stacked in
shining columns, the bits and bridles
pendent from the ceiling in endless
festoons. From these stores 10,000 troops
could be at any moment supplied.
The Wliarf extends for about a rmle
along the river, and is at times a very busy
place. Here troops land and embark,
and stores are shipped, the Shipping or T
Pier being opposite the central offices of
the Control Department. A new iron
pier has been constructed about 250 yds.
farther E., especially for embarking heavy
guns. Along the wharf are numerous
hydraulic cranes, some of them for lifting

WOOLWICH.

750

WOOLWICH.

the heaviest weights. The various houses
seen along here are the Engine-House, for
furnishing power to the hydraulic ma
chinery, the Chain Cable Testing House,
etc. Before quitting this part of the Arsenal
may be noticed the Russian and Chinese
bronze guns and mortars — some of the
latter beautiful examples of metal casting,
and the statue — not exactly Phideian in
execution — of the Duke of Wellington.
East of the departments we have visited,
and shut off from them by walls or canals,
is the East Laboratory, a, series of de
tached and to a certain extent isolated
buildings, in which cartridge cases are
made, the various explosive compositions
mixed, and percussion-caps, fuzes, and
smaU-arm cartridges, etc., filled. Girls
and boys are largely employed . in these
operations, but a rigorous supervision is
exercised, and every provision made
against accidents. The rocket and deto
nating sheds are beyond the canal ; the
shell sheds, cannon-cartridge factory, and
gun-cotton sheds are in the marshes
farther down the river. In these marshes
too are the practice ranges for small-arms
and ordnance, and the great Butt, at
which such monsters as the 38 or 81-ton
guns send their quarter or half -ton shots.
Here also the gun-cotton and torpedo
experiments are carried out. The fish
torpedo's "run" is the long canal im
mediately E. of the East Laboratory.
The Garrison Buildings are mostly
grouped about or near the Common.
Between the Dockyard and the Common
are the Red or Royal Engineer Barracks,
a very extensive range, in large part of
recent erection and well planned. The
Royal Artillery Barracks are however
the more important, as the head-quarters
of the MiUtary Staff at Woolwich, and the
most imposing building in the town. The
building has a frontage of over 1200 ft.,
facing the Common, and, in four divisions,
has an equal depth. In it are included
administrative offices, and the mess and
club rooms — perhaps the finest attached to
any barracks in the kingdom, as in them
are received and entertained royal person
ages and distinguished foreign officers on
occasions of reviews on the Common or
visits to the Arsenal. Opposite the centre
of the facade is the Crimean Memorial,
" erected by their Comrades, to the
Memory of the Officers, Non- Commissioned

Officers, and Men of the Royal Regiment
of Artillery, who fell during the War with
Russia," 1854-56. The memorial is a
bronze statue, by John Bell, of Victory,
holding the laurel crown, on a lofty
granite pedestal, on the front and back
of which are bronze shields bearing the
inscriptions. Close to the Memorial is
a remarkable bronze gun, captured at
Bhurtpore in 1828, and given by George
IV. to the officers of the Royal Artillery.
The gun is 16 ft. 4 in. long, has a calibre
of 8 in., and weighs nearly 18 tons. The
view from the front of the barracks is
very fine. The Royal Horse Artillery
Barracks and the Grand DepSt form a
part of the establishment ; as do also the
Riding School, 150 ft. by 63 ft., and the
Minage, where the soldiers practise their
sword exercise. Connected with the
barracks, but in a distinct building, E. of
the main building, is the Royal Artillery
Institution, with its Rbrary, museum,
reading rooms, lecture theatre, studios,
and laboratory, magnetic and meteorologic
cal observatory, etc.; an admirable institu
tion, and one in which much good work
has been done. For the instruction and
amusement of the men, there have been
provided well fitted and furnished Recre
ation Rooms, and a Tlieatre for amateur
performances. St, George's Church, the
garrison chapel, erected in 1863, the
richest specimen of ecclesiastical architec
ture in Woolwich, faces the end of the
Artillery Barracks. It is large and lofty,
of coloured bricks with stone dressings ;
the style, as described by the architects,
Messrs. T. H. and Digby Wyatt, "an
adaptation of Lombardic architecture to
the materials and processes in use in the
19th century ; " but it suffers externally
from the absence of a campanile, a neces
sary adjunct to a church in that style.
The interior is more striking from its
space and loftiness, the area being un
impeded save by the light iron columns
which carry the gallery and the arches of
the clerestorey. Coloured decoration is
freely employed, and most of the windows
are filled with memorial painted glass.
On the W. side of the Barrack Field,
beyond the Battery, and enclosed within a
Une of field-works, is the Royal Military
Repository, where all artillery officers
have to pass through a course of instruc--
tion, and the soldiers are taught to mount,

WOOLWICH.

751

WOOLWICH.

serve, and dismount heavy guns, the use
of pontoons and whatever is required in
field service. The grounds are extensive,
much broken, laid out with earth-works,
have large sheets of water for pontooning,
and are provided with all requisite mili
tary and mechanical appliances.
The Repository is of course not open
to visitors, but within its boundaries, in
the building known as the Rotunda, is
the Royal Artillery Museum, which is
open to tiie public every week-day without
tickets, from 10 till 12.45 in the morning,
and from 2 to 4, 5, or 6, according to the
season, in the aftertuwn.
The building will be recognised by its
unusual appearance : the walls a polygon
of 24 sides ; the roof a circular tent. It
was originally designed by Nash and
erected by George IV. (then Prince
Regent), in the grounds of Carlton House,
as a supper-room, for an entertainment
given to the AUied Sovereigns in 1814 : it
was appUed to its present purpose in 1820.
As a temporary expedient, it may have
been suitable enough ; but the museum
has outgrown its capabilities. The articles
cannot be properly arranged, and the
Ught is insufficient.
The Museum is no longer a mere " col
lection of naval and military models "
and miscellaneous curiosities ; but aims
to be, and in a great measure is, a compre
hensive museum of military arms and
appliances, ancient and modern. It com
prises a large and valuable, though in
complete, collection of early arms and
armour, including such things as a com
plete suit of armour, said to have belonged
to the mirror of knighthood, Bayard, and
which good judges have pronounced to be
certainly of his time ; a large number of
tilting helmets, salades, basinets,vamplates
(some of them unique), shirts and sleeves
of mail, and the other equipments of the
knights of the middle ages. The arms
and armour of the Cavaliers and Round
heads of the 17th. cent, are also very fairly
illustrated. There is a good coUection of
early swords, and a coUection, not less
complete, of rapiers and modern dress
swords. But it is, as might be expected,
— the museum being essentially an artillery
museum, — in gunnery that it is excep-
tionaUy rich. Here, for example, is the
earnest English gun known. It is be
Ueved to be of about the middle of the

14th cent., a short thick mortar-like
weapon, strengthened with rings, and
made to throw stone balls ; it was found
in the moat of Bodiam Castle, Sussex, and
was doubtless intended for its defence.
Of nearly equal antiquity are several guns
found, with their ammunition of stone
balls, in the sands of the island of Walney,
Lancashn-e : long ungainly instruments
made of bars or plates of wrought iron,
bound together and strengthened by iron
hoops. There are also several very curious
and very interesting hand-mortars, fire-
arrows, and hand-grenades.
But the most interesting, just now, are
the early breech-loading and rifled guns,
in which, however rudely, almost every
modern contrivance seems to have been
anticipated — at least in principle. One
of the most remarkable is an EngUsh
breech-loader of the 15th century, very
rudely forged, and as would seem a very
wild shooter ; but the breech arrangement is
simple (something after the Krupp prin
ciple), and it is noteworthy that in this, as
in some other early examples, a duplicate
breech-piece was provided to save time in
loading. A smooth-bore arquebus, dated
1537, and said to have belonged to Henry
VIII., is remarkable for the resemblance of
the breechmechanism to that of the Snider
breech-loader of the present day.* Some
of the early Italian breech-loaders are very
superior implements. A French double-
barrel breech-loading wall-piece, of about
1690, is particularly noteworthy. The
barrels are placed one above another, and
each rifled with 12 rectangular grooves-
The barrel is formed of an inner rifled
tube and outer coating, and the muzzles
are ornamented with brass heads of
animals. There are also German and
French breech-loading wall-plate and
rampart guns of the 17th cent. ; Chinese
bronze breech-loading swivel-guns with
their tripod stands ; various Indian bronze
breech-loading guns ; and, indeed, a sur
prisingly large variety of breech-loaders
of widely different countries and times*
Contrasting with these are the Armstrong
breech-loaders of our own day and service,
ahandsomely finished Krupp'sl2-pounder,
and the breech arrangement of his 100-
pounder in its latest form.

* Brig. -General Lefroy, B.A., in Arch-sol. Jour
nal, vol. xxiv., p. 71.

WOOLWICH.

752

WOOLWICH.

Rifling is equally well illustrated. Here
is a rifle with the barrel dated 1547, being
the earUest dated rifle barrel known, and
42 years earUer than the next in order of
time, one in the Paris collection dated
1589. It has seven grooves, and one turn
in 22 inches. From these the progress
of rifling, both in ordnance and small-
arms, may be followed pretty closely in
examples from various countries. The
rifle was adopted in the English army in
1792, and here are several of the arms
used, clumsy instruments with flint locks
which continued in use, with few altera
tions, till 1839. Of subsequent kinds,
down to the Enfield, Snider, and Martini-
Henry, there is a complete series; as
well as the needle-guns of the German,
and Austrian armies, and the Chassep6ts
of the French.
The ordinary service arm may be here
traced downward from the wheel-lock
arquebuses, of which there is a large
number, and some highly enriched and
in various ways remarkable dated speci
mens by Kotter, Seffler, and other noted
German gunsmiths ; carbines, petronels,
matchlocks, and so on, down to our once
familiar, but now discarded, Brown Bess.
Of pistols there is of course a large and
wide variety. As an example, obs. in
central glass-case the pair of Spanish
holster-pistols, elaborately wrought in
silver ; but these, rich as they are, are
far surpassed by several Oriental examples.
Of modern work, revolvers, repeaters, and
the like, the specimens are numerous.
As illustrating foreshadowings of recent
inventions and processes, obs. the two
¦early Chinese cannon of which there are
longitudinal sections. One 9 ft. long
consists of a tube of wrought n'on about
2J in. thick, with a bore of 5J in., sur
rounded by an outer casing of bronze
4 in. thick. The tube has been wrought
on a mandril, but the welding is imper
fect, the bore very irregular, and the
¦firing consequently must have been very
wild. The other is a, bronze howitzer,
with an inner iron tube which the section
shows to have been in Uke manner rudely
wrought on a mandril, but it has the
peculiarity that whilst the bore for the
shot is 9'2 in. in diameter, the powder
chamber (which is 28 in. long) is con
tracted to a diameter of only 4-5 in.
Another division displays shot and shell

of all times, concluding with sections
showing the form and composition of
most recent varieties of shells used in the
British 'service, as well as models, sec
tions, etc., illustrating their penetrative
and destructive effect. Rockets may be
traced from Congreve to Hale ; their value
for warlike purposes and for saving the
shipwrecked is variously illustrated ; and
there are models of rocket trains and
rocket apparatus.
Among the almost endless miUtary
models, notice the Russian Field Battery
presented to the Duke of Wellington by
the Emperor Nicholas in 1834. It com
prises 22 guns, each drawn by 16 horses
—the whole finished with minute accuracy.
Another noticeable feature is the collec
tion of models of English, colonial, and
foreign dockyards, harbours, fortresses,
and miUtary works, some executed on a
large scale. The most remarkable perhaps
is that of Gibraltar, 36 ft. long, the scale
1 in. to 100 ft., a work of great labour
and minutely correct.
War trophies from China and Abys-
synia ; South African and American Indian
war implements; pre-historic stone in
struments ; the guns and shot raised from
the wreck of the ' Mary Rose' (1545), and
the ' Royal George ; ' " infernal machines"
of various sorts ; the cinder that represents
the 56,000,000 one-pound notes burntwhen
recalled from issue ; the trophy of relics
— guns, bayonets, swords, etc., curiously
molten and intertwisted — from the great
fire at the Tower of London, Oet. 1841,
and hundreds of other "curiosities," serve
as popular counterfoils to the more strictly
scientific and antiquarian portion of the
Museum. An excellent Official Catalogue
may be bad at the Rotunda, but as it is
sold at the unusual price of 3*. Gd., few
visitors purchase it : the Museum is so
interesting and instructive, if intelligently
examined — and to do this a good cata
logue is indispensable — that it is to be
hoped the authorities will soon issue a de
scriptive catalogue — even though it be less
elaborate than the present — at a moderate
price. Outside is an open-air collection of
armour plate targets which have been
subjected to the blows of shot and shell,
each hole or dent having its record of the
occasion, size of shot, etc. ; Palisser and
other shot and shell as fractured by

WOOLWICH.

753

WOOLWICH, NORTH.

impact ; Chinese and other remarkable
guns, and gun-carriages ; and relics from
the ' Mary Rose' and ' Royal George.'
On the opposite side of the Common,
about a mile S.E. from the Rotunda, is
the Royal Military Academy, which
originated in a grant of £1000 by
George II. , April 30, and Nov. 18, 1741,
for the military education of gentlemen
cadets. The original school was the house
known as Prince Rupert's, within ' Wool
wich Warren,' now the Laboratory Mu
seum. The present buUding was erected
in 1S04, at a cost of £150,000, from the de
signs of SU' Jeffry Wyattville. The facade
towards the Common consists of a square
casteUated centre, with cupola-crowned
turrets at the angles and wings, united
with the centre by corridors, and enclosing
an inner quadrangle. The style was
described by the architect as partly E.E.,
partly Elizabethan; and if not very pure,
is, like most of WyattviUe's work, fairly
picturesque. On the 1st of Feb., 1873,
the central portion was destroyed by fire,
and some damage done to other parts of
the building ; but the whole has been
restored, and additions made to the
main structure. The instruction in the
Woolwich Academy is preparatory for
the Royal Artillery and Royal Engineers :
the scientific corps of the British army,
and the staff of professors and officers is
large, and particularly strong on the
scientific side. Students are admitted
between the ages of 16 and 18, after a
preliminary examination conducted by
the Civil Service Commissioners, in which,
besides ancient and modern languages,
"a thorough knowledge of each of the
four branches of mathematics " is required.
In April 1876 there were 205 gentlemen
cadets in the Academy. The Duke of
Connaught, and the Prince Imperial
of France, it will be remembered,
completed their military education, as
Queen's scholars, at the Royal Military
Academy. Woolwich Common is about a mile
across; the area 185 acres, of which
£0 acres are in Woolwich, and 125 in
Charlton parish. It is the property
of the Government, the manorial rights
having been purchased early in the present
century, and is used for exercising the
troops and reviews ; but there is an open
road across it, and the pubUc have free

access to it, except when any part is
required for military purposes.
Herbert's Hospital, the noble Garrison'
Hospital on the western slope of Shooter's
Hill, faces the south-western end of the
Common : it is noticed more fully under
Shootee's Hill (p. 554).
On the Thames, W. of the Dockyard,
off Charlton Pier, was moored the old
man-of-war ' Warspite,' the training ship
of the Royal Marine Society. It was
destroyed by fire on the morning of
Monday, the 3rd of Jan., 1876, only 11
days after the burning of the'GoUath'
training ship at Grays (see p. 245), which
was burnt on the 23rd of Dec, 1875.
Both ships will be replaced by larger
vessels. The new ' Warspite,' formerly the
' Conqueror,' is now at her moorings.
WOOLWICH, NOETH, Kent,
a modern vill. in Woolwich parish, but
on the 1. bank of the Thames, opposite
Woolwich, and the terminus of the Vic
toria Docks and N. Woolwich br. of the
Gt. E. Rly. over which the N. London
Rly. also runs trains. Pop. 1455. Inn :
Royal Hotel.
Though a detached portion of Kent,
North Woolwich is locally within the
county of Essex. The village is of quite
recent growth. A very few years ago
there were only a few cottages and the
Old Barge House, whence the ferry boats
crossed to Woolwich. The formation of the
raUway and pier, and the establishment
of a regular steam-ferry to Woolwich,
the construction of the Victoria Docks,
and the opening of extensive manufac
turing estabUshments in the immediate
vicinity, caused the influx of a large num
ber of working men, and of necessity the
building of houses for their accommoda
tion; and whilst the greater number
settled in the district known as London
over the Border, on the London side of
the Victoria Docks, a little town sprang
up at North Woolwich. A portion of the
great Beckton Works of the Gaslight and
Coke Company is in North Woolwich,
and there are extensive Electric Telegraph
and Submarine Cable, American Leather,
Creosote, and other works. North Wool
wich is a part of the eccl. dist. of St. Mary,
Victoria Docks, for which a spacious
Gothic church has been erected.
The North Woolwich Gardens, attached
48

WORMHOLT.

754

WORMLEY.

to the Royal Hotel, are a popular place
of summer resort.
WORCESTER PARK, Surrey
(see Malden).
WORMHOLT (popularly WORM
WOOD) SCRUBS, Middx., celebrated for
duels, rifle ranges, and pigeon shooting,
is about % m. N. by W. of Shepherd's
Bush ; there is a stat. on the N. London
and N.-W. Junction Rly.
Wormholt Barns, a sub-manor of
Fulham, was leased by Bp. Bonner, in
1549, " on the eve of his first deprivation,"
to Edward Duke of Somerset, for a term
of 200 years. On Somerset's attainder,
it became vested in the Crown, and was
granted by Queen Elizabeth, in 1559, to
Simon Willis. It afterwards passed to
George Penruddock and others, and on
the termination of the lease was divided
into two parts, which have since been
leased to private persons.
The waste called Wormholt Scrubs was
formerly a wood (holt) of over 200 acres ;
Old Oak Common (see Acton) being an
extension of it. Along its N. border runs
the G. Western Rly. and the Grand Junc
tion Canal. At the commencement of
the present century about 140 acres re
mained unenclosed, and was used by
commoners for pasturage ; by the Govern
ment for military exercises, and occasion
ally for militia encampments ; and by
duellists and highwaymen for less innocent
purposes. Now it is nearly all enclosed,
though not built over. Some sections
have been appropriated for the rifle
ranges of the Queen's and other volunteer
corps ; a portion is occupied as the
pigeon shooting ground of the Gun Club ;
and the remainder is reserved by the
Government for drilling grounds. A large
convict prison was erected in 1875, on
Wormholt Scrubs, in place of Millbank
Prison.
WORMLEY, Herts (Dom. Wer-
melai), a vill. on the Ware road, 1-J m.
beyond Cheshunt, and 1 m. S. by W from
Broxbourne Stat, of the Gt. E. Rly. Pop.
692. Inn : White Horse.
Wormley belonged to the Canons of
Waltham Holy Cross from before the
Conquest till the Dissolution. The manor
was given by Henry VIII. to Edward
North, has since passed through a suc

cession of private hands, and is now
the property of Mrs. Grant. The vill.
consists mostly of small houses placed
irregularly along the highroad. The
church stands by the manor-house, J m.
W. of the viUage. The occupations are
agricultural : vegetables are largely raised
for the London market.
The Chw-ch (St. Lawrence) is small
but interesting, and very prettily placed.
It consists of an ancient nave and
chancel, and a S. aisle of recent erec
tion. The old walls are low, covered
with rough-cast, and have tall tiled roofs ;
the aisle is of flint and stone. Above the
W. gable is a bell-cote containing two
small bells ; on the S.W. a wooden porch.
The chancel has 2 original lancets on each
side, but the triplet at the E. end was
inserted at the recent enlargement of the
ch. The nave windows are insertions of
Perp. date. At the N.W. is a small plain
Norman doorway. The interior has a W.
gaUery and pews. The font is Norman,
and worth examination. Over the altar
is a painting of the Last Supper, attri
buted to Palma. Monts. — Marble tomb
with recumbent alabaster effigies of Wm.
Purvey, d. 1617, auditor of the Duchy of
Lancaster, and Dorothy his wife. Brasses.
— John Cleve, rector, d. 1424 ; Richard
Rufton, rector, d. 1457. Brass on tomb in
chancel of man, wife, and 12 children,
insc lost. Tablet on S. wall to Richard
Gough, the famous antiquary, who d. at
his house, Enfield, Feb. 20, 1809, and was
buried by his own desire in Wormley ch.-
yard. On the N. wall of nave, tablet, with
reUef of kneeling female, by Westmacott,
to Charles Lord Farnborough, d. 1838,
and his wife, Amelia Lady Farnborough,
d. 1837. Also tablet to Sir Abraham
Hume, Bart., of Wormley Bury, d. March
24, 1838, in his 90th year. Obs. in the
ch.-yard, the large yew-tree opposite the
N.W. door, and a smaller one E. of the ch.
Also the great elm at the entrance to the
ch.-yard. The manor-house, Wormleybwry (Mrs.
Grant), E. of the ch. is a large brick
mansion of three storeys, with, in the
centre, a tetrastyle Ionic portico and
pediment reaching to the roof. It stands
in a small but pleasant park, with a Uttle
stream flowing along the bottom, which,
opposite the house, expands into a broad
sheet of water. W. of the ch. is an attrac-

WYRARDISBURY.

755

WYRARDISBURY.

tive country district. West Lea is the seat
of G. Boulnois Ireland, Esq, ; Wormley
House of J. F. Johnson, Esq.
WROTHAM PARK, Middx. (see
Mimms, South).
WYRARDISBURY, Bucks, pro
nounced, and now commonly written,
WRAYSBURY (Dom. Werccesberie). lies
in the meadows, J m. from the 1. bank of
the Thames, and a little to the W. of the
Colne ; IJ m. S.W. from Horton, and 3 m.
N.W. from Staines ; a vill. and a stat. on
the Windsor branch of the L. and S.-W.
Rly. Pop. 731. Inn: The George.
The vill. is a long straggUng coUection
of small houses, with a few of a better
description, and two or three good seats.
The pursuits are mainly agricultural, but
there are paper and millboard mills by
the Colne, and the vill. is in some favour
with anglers. The country is level, but
green, pleasant, well-watered (in winter
subject to floods), abounds in trees, and
has Cooper's Hill and the towers of
Windsor Castle near enough to form im
portant features in the landscape. Charter
or Magna Charta Island Ues off Wrays
bury, and Runnimede is on the opposite
bank of the Thames.
Wyrardisbury Church (St. Andrew)
was rebuUt in 1862, under the direction
of Mr. Raphael Brandon, only the chancel
and the nave arcades of the old ch. being
retained. The tower and spn-e were
added in 1871. It is of square hammered
Kentish rag and Bath stone. The nave
has E.E. windows ; the chancel Dec. ; the
vestry, on the N., Perp. The doorway in
the N. aisle is a copy of that of the old
ch. The interior has a good open-timber
roof, painted glass in the windows, and
low open seats. Obs. brass of a youth,
— Stonor, 1512, in a kind of academical
habit ; said to be of an Eton boy, but this
is doubtful: nothing on the brass sup
ports the beUef; the coUege rolls for
the period are imperfect, but no such
name occurs on them. There are mural
monts. to the Stonor, Hassel, Harcourt,

and Gyll families, but none of general
interest. In the ch.-yard, W. of the ch., are the
tombs of the Harcourt family. On the W.
is a good-sized yew-tree. The entrance
is by a 17th cent, lich-gate.*
Remingham House is the seat of G. W. J.
Gyll, Esq., lord of the manor of Reming
ham and Cow (holding it on lease of
the Dean and Canons of Windsor), and
author of the ' History of Wraysbury '
(4to, 1862). Place Farm, on the road to
Datchet, the picturesque old grange popu
larly known as King John's Ilumting
Lodge, is noticed under Datchet (p. 138).
It is the property of Mr. Gyll, and care
fully preserved by him. Ankerviyke House
and the great yew-tree are described
under Ankebwyke (p. 13).
Charter Island, or Magna Charta
Island, is an eyot of about 2i acres,
lying off the upper end of the grounds of
Ankerwyke House. In Aubrey's day the
tradition ran that the treaty between John
and the Barons was made " in an eight
(eyot) over against Yard-Mead, which is
Runny-Mead, and the Great Charter sealed
there." Accepting the tradition, Mr. G.
Simon Harcourt, then lord of the manor,
erected in 1834 a Gothic cottage on the
island, fitted it with old carved oak wain
scoting, and adorned windows and walls
with a portrait of John and the arms of
the associated Barons. In the centre of
the room, set in a massive oak frame, he
placed a stone inscribed " Be it remembered
that on this Island, in June 1215, John,
King of England, signed the Magna
Charta" • but as to that see Runnimede
(p. 516) ; where also is noticed a later
treaty which was signed on the island.
Charter Island is united with the main
land by a causeway at the upper end.
YEADING, Middx. (see Hayes).
YIEWSLEY, Middx. (see Hil
lingdon). * It is engraved in Lipscomb's Hist, of Bucking-
I hamsliire, vol. iv., p. 612.

INDEX.

The date within brackets is that of death, unless othertvise indicated.

ABBEY MILLS.

ANDERSON.

Abbey Mills, main- drainage
pumping station, 685 .
Abbot, George, Archbishop of
Canterbury (1633), portrait, 222,
235-
Abbott, L. F., portrait by, 257.
Abbot's Hill House, 3 .
Abbotswick House, 446.
Abdy, family seat, 8.
Abdy, Sir John, mont., 570.
Abdy, Col., residence, 270.
Abercorn, Marquis of, owns Bent
ley Priory, 564.
Abernethy, John, M.D., died
(1831), 180.
Abershawe, Jerry, highwayman,
hung at Kennington (1795),
gibbeted at Wimbledon, 1 16,
705-
Abington, Mrs. (1815), actress, por
trait, 409.
Abney, Sir Thomas (1722), lived,
608.
Academy, Royal Military, Wool
wich, 753.
Acontius, Jacob (1566), reclaims
' drowned ' land at Plumstead,
'^473- Acton Back, encounter between
armies of Charles I. and Parlia
ment, 5.
Acworth, N. Brindley, residence,
449.
Adam, Robert, architect, remodels
Caen Wood, 71 ; Osterley, 461.
Syon House, 601 ; buried, 262.
Adams, Mrs., residence, 176,
Addington Place, seat of Abps.
of Canterbury, 5.
Addison, Joseph (1719), portrait,
409.
Adelaide, Queen, residence at
Bentley Priory, and death
(1849), 564 ; grave, 718
Adrian IV., Pope (Nicholas
Breakspeare), birthplace, 2 ;
favours Abbot of St. Albans,
521.
Aelfeg (Alphege) Abp., murdered
(1012), 249.

.flSthelred, King, killed (871), 426.
Agricultural Industrial School, 60.
Aikin, Lucy (1864), buried, 286.
Aikman, W., portraits by, 409.
Ailsa, Marquis of, lived, 383.
Ainslie, W. P., residence, 365.
Airey, J. T., residence, 288.
Aiton, William, botanist (1793),
director of Kew Gardens, 391 ;
planned Lord Heathfield's gar
dens, 627 ; buried, 389.
Akenside, Mark, M.D. (1770),
poet, visited, 233 ; resided, 282.
Alban, St., legend of, 519; re
moval of relics and their
recovery, 520 ; shrine, 532 ;
history of, discovered by Ead
mar, 543.
Albans, St., building of the Abbey
Church, 526 ; battles of, 522 ;
burial-place _ of the slain, 540 ;
new bishopric, 523.
Albemarle, George Monk, Duke
of (1670), at St. Albans, 523 ; por
trait, 255.
Albert Memorial Chapel, de
scribed, 720 ; admission to, 722.
Albert, Prince Consort, laid
foundation-stone at Colney
Hatch, 115 ; at Hatfield, 328;
at Hertford, 33^ ; at Richmond,
501 ; interest in improvements
at Windsor Castle, 717; recon
struction of Royal Library, 728 ;
silver fountain designed by, 728 ;
re-arrangement of drawings,
729 ; Mausoleum, 731 ; me
morial statue, 732,
Albert, Archduke of Austria,
portrait, 727
Aid bury, 93.
Aldbury House, 95.
Aldenham Abbey, 10.
Aldenham House, 10.
Alder Grove Lodge, 343.
Ale House of Skelton's Elynor
Rummyng, 415.
Alexander of Abingdon, designs
Eleanor Cross at Waltham
(1294), 655.

Alexander I. of Russia, portrait,
726.
Alexander, H. B., residence, 27.
Alexander, R. H., residence, 124.
Alexander, Robert, residence, 388.
Alexander, W. C., residence, 364.
Alexandra Park and Palace, 444.
Alexandra, Princess of Wales, por
trait, 587.
Allan, Sir W. (1850), painting by,
256.
Allcroft, John D., residence, 318.
Allen, J. C-, residence, 341.
Allen, John, his Italian and Span
ish books, 155.
Allen, R., residence, 124.
Allen, T. Newland, residence, 82.
Allen, Admiral Sir Thos. , portrait,
255-
Alleyne, Edward, founder of Dul
wich College (1626), portrait;
tomb, 155.
Allied Sovereigns at Bentley
Priory, 564 ; at Oatlands, 689.
Allistree, Dr.,, buried, 210.
Allom, A., building by, 506.
Alphege, Abp., killed, 249.
Alphery, Rev. Mikepher (1718),
278.
Alt, J., residence, 7,
Alten, Count, portrait, 726.
Altham, Sir Jas. (1616), chapel;
mont., 680.
Alvanley, Richard Pepper Arden
Lord (1804), Master of the Rolls,
lived, 288.
Amelia, Princess, daughter of
George II. (1810), residence,
159 ; Ranger of Richmond Park;
attempts to close the park, and
is defeated, 495 j portrait, 588 ;
buried, 718.
Amherst, Lord, seat, 510.
Amherst, Nicholas, author of the
' Craftsman,' died (1742), 639.
Amphibalus, St., legend of, 519;
shrine, 535.
Ancaster House, 499.
Anderson, Jas., LL.D. (the Bee),
tomb (1808), 684.

INDEX.

757

Andrew, Jas. Pettit, F.S.A. (1797),
buried, 2S6.
Andre ws-Ie- Mote, St., Manor
House, Cheshunt, 03.
Andrews, Lancelot, Bp. of Win
chester (1626), rector, 86.
Andrus, Capt., residence, 559.
Angerstein, J. J., lived and died
(1822); collection of pictures, 50 ;
mont., 261.
Angerstein, W., residence, 50.
Angouleme, Ducd', portrait, 726.
Aniline Works, 246.
Anketil, monk of St. Albans,
makes feretory of St. Alban,
533-
Ann's, St., Society, Royal Asylum,
590-
Anne, Queen, born, 630 ; build
ings at Greenwich Palace and
Hospital, 252 ; at Syon, when
princess, 6or ; at Hampton
Court, 302 ; at Windsor, 716 ;
entertains the ArchdukeCharles,
716 ; portraits, 261, 265, 400,
708, 716, 726.
Anne of Cleves, reception of, 47,
250 ; at Hampton Court, 298 ;
granted Dartford Priory, 136 ;
manors of Bletchlngley, 51, and
Richmond, 490.
Anne of Denmark, Queen of James
I., rebuilds garden front of
Greenwich Palace, 251 ; enter
tains Bassano, Venetian Am
bassador, at Oatlands, 688 ;
portraits, 308, 309.
Anne's Hill, St., 88.
Anne's House, St., 27.
Anningley Park, 8.
Anson, Adml. Lord, lived at Moor
Park, and died there (1762), 508 ;
portrait, 255.
Anspach, Lady Craven, Margra
vine of, at Craven Cottage, 223 ;
at Hammersmith, 276.
Anstis, John, Garter King-at-arms,
died (1744), 442.
Antrobus, H. Lindsay, residence,
86.
Aperfield Court Lodge, 133.
Apps Court, 15.
Aram, Eugene, usher at, 483.
Arboretum, Kew, 393.
Arbuthnot, Dr. John (1735), at
Hampstead, 290.
Archer, Thomas, mansion by, 511.
Archway, Highgate, 355.
Arden, Joseph, residence, 509.
Ardem Hall, 361.
Ardesoif, John, died (1798), 619.
Argyll, John Campbell, 2nd (great)
Duke of, born, 270.
Arkley, 30.
Arkwright, Miss, residence, 413.
Arkwright, L. W., residence, 466.
Armada, relics of, 330.
Armitage, W. J., residence, 560.
Armstrong, Dr. George, physician
at Hampstead, 290.
Armstrong, Dr. John (1779) ('Art
of Preserving Health'), at
Hampstead, 290.

Arnald, G., A.R.A., painting by,
256.
Arno's Grove (or Arnold's), 560.
Arnold, Dr. Thomas (1842), resi
dence at Laleham, 410.
Arrow, Sir Fred., residence, 682.
Arsenal, Royal, Woolwich, founda
tion, 742 ; described, 743 ; mode
of admissson to, 742.
Arthur, Prince, residence, 40.
Artillery Barracks, Royal, Wool
wich, 750.
Artillery Carriage Works, AVool-
wich, 748.
Artillery Museum, Wool wich, 751 .
Arundel House, Fulham, 224.
Arundel House, seat of Earls of
Arundel, Highgate, 350 ; James
I. at, 350 ; Lord Bacon dies at,
35i-
Arundel, Thomas Howard, Earl
of, portrait, 264.
Asgill House, 501.
Ash trees, largest in England, 83 ;
planted by Bp. Porteous, 593.
Ashby, family monts., 317.
Ashe, Sir Joseph (1682), mont.,
641.
Ashford House, 16.
Ashgroves, 549.
Ashley Park, 661.
Ashmole, Elias (1692), lived, 32.
Ashpitel, A., church by, 9.
Ashtead Park, 17.
Askew, Anthony, M.D., buried
(1774), 286.
Askew, Admiral Sir George, por
trait, 255.
Askew, Rev. J., residence, 500.
Aston, Sir Roger (1612), mont.,
121.
Athelstan, King, crowned, 398.
Atkins, Henry, physician to James
I. and Charles I- (1635), mont.,
94.
Atkins, J. Pelly, residence, 269.
Atkinson, George, buildings by,
615.643,662.
Attenborough, R., residence, 4.
Atterbury, Lewis, LL.D., rector
of Hornsey (1731), mont., 364.
Attwood, Benj., residence, 94.
Aubigny, Lady, portrait, 264.
Aubyns, St., Miss, residence, 14.
Augusta, Princess, buried (1840),
718.
Aumale, Due d', at Orleans
House, 630 ; portrait, 587.
Aylmer, Adml. Lord,buried(i72o),
262.
Ayloffe, Sir Joseph, buried (1781),
Aylward, Dr. Theodore, organist
(1801), mont. 720.
Aylwood, Alfred, residence, 460.
Babeage, Charles (1871), edu
cated at, 186.
Bachelor's Acre, 709.
Bacon, Francis, Lord, lived, 226 ;
seat, 234 ; entertains Queen
Elizabeth at Twickenham, 631 ;
died, 350 ; church, burial-place,

and monumental statue, 540 ;
portrait, 235.
Bacon, John (1799), sculpture by,
210, 253, 445, 626.
Bacon, Sir Nathaniel (1615), por
trait ; and paintings by, 235.
Bacon, Sir Nicholas (1579), born,
103 ; seat, 233 ; portrait, 234.
Baillie, Joanna (1851), lived, 289 ;
tomb, 286.
Baily, E. H., R.A., sculpture by,
167, 417.
Baker, Major-Gen. Sir E. Ers
kine, K.C. B., residence, 438.
Baker, Capt. Francis, residence,
576.
Baker, W. R., residence, 32.
Baker Street, 185.
Baldwin, Christopher, planted
Clapham Common, in.
Baliol, John, King of Scotland,
holds manor at Tottenham, 617.
Ball play at Kingston on Shrove
Tuesday, 401.
Ball, John, rebel priest, hanged at
St. Albans, 522.
Ball, Rear-Admiral Sir A. J.
(1809), portrait, 255.
Ball, J., residence, 522.
Ball's Park, 341.
Ballard's, 6.
Baltimore, Cecil, 2nd Lord, lived,
382 ; portrait, 235.
Bamber, John, M.D., died (1752),
22.
Bambury, Fred., residence, 554.
Banckes, Lady Mary (1661), de
fender of Corfe Castle ; mont.,
5i5-
Bancroft, Bp., held living, 217 ;
portrait, 222 ; entertains Queen
Elizabeth and James I., 223.
Bank-notes, Factory of, 135-
Bankes, Sir Henry, residence, 706.
Banks, Sir Edward (1835), builder
of London and Southwark
bridges, mont., 101.
Banks, Sir Joseph, P.R.S., at
Spring Grove ; his plants and
parties ; died at (1820), 561.
Banks, Thomas (1805), sculpture
by, 417.
Banks, W. C, church by, 417.
Banstead House, 19.
Banti, statue of Napoleon L, 151.
Barbauld, Mrs. (1825), at Burford
Bridge, 55 ; at Hampstead,
285. . .
Barbauld, Rev.Rochemont, minis
ter at, 287, 349.
Barber, C., residence, 361.
Barber, Alderman (1740). tomb,
441.
Barber, W. S., church by, 416.
Barbone, Sarah, daughter of
Praise Barbone, buried (1635),
665.
Barclay's Plot for assassinating
William III., scene of, 627.
Barclay, C. H., residence, 455.
Barclay, G. Gurney, seat, 419.
Barclay, H. D., residence, 53.
Barclay, H. F., residence, 737.

758

INDEX.

Barclay, Rev. James (Dictionary),
curate, 165.
Barclay, Robert, residence, 152,
Bardolfs, manor of, 5.
Bar-guest, legend of, 65.
Baring, T. C, residence, 343.
Bark Hart, so named by Queen
Elizabeth, 460.
Barker, G., residence, 463.
Barkham, Dr. John, antiquary
(1642), held living, 217.
Barkham, Sir Robert (1644), and
Lady ; mont., 622.
Barking Abbey, 20.
Barn, remarkable old, 319.
Barnard, Aid. Sir John (1764),
mont., 440.
Barne, John (1615), mont, 698.
Barnet, battle of, 29 ; site, 266 ;
obelisk commemorating, 267.
Barnet church restored [re
opened, 1875], 29.
Barnsfield House, 576.
Baron's Cave, Reigate, 484.
Barracks, cavalry, erected on
Hownslow Heath (1793), 371 ;
infantry, 676.
Barret, George (1784), landscapes
at Norbury, 429.
Barrington, Adml. Hon. Samuel
(1800), portrait, 256.
Barrow Green House, 463.
Barrows, 6, 46, 47, 118, 134, 232,
463, 706.
Barry, Mrs., actress, lived (1706—
*7*3). 4-
Barry, Sir Charles (i860), build
ings by, 9, 662.
Barry, Charles (the younger),
buildings by, 157, 158.
Barry, James (1806), painting by,
602.
Bartholomew, R., residence, 343.
Bartleet, W. G., residence, 552.
Bartoli, Pietro Santo (1700), draw-
ings^by, 730.
Bartolini, sculpture by, 151.
Bartolommeo, Fra, painting by,
464 ; drawings by, 730.
Bartolozzi, F. (1813), lived, 450.
Barton, Bernard, Quaker poet
(1849), at Tottenham, 623.
Barton, Mrs., Sir Isaac Newton's
niece and housekeeper, seat,
Bartrop, T. R., residence, 90.
Barwell Court, 360.
Base-line of first .trigonometrical
survey, 372.
Basevi, George (1845), buildings
by, 92, 262, 642.
Bassano, Giacomo, painting by,
3°7- r ...
Bassen, Van, painting by, 310.
Bassett family, manor of, 680.
Batchworth, 509.
Bath, Lord, at Richmond (to play
whist), 493.
Bath, Lady, residence, 633.
Bathurst, Allan, ist Lord (1775),
seat ; his gardening, 486.
Bathurst, Henry, 2nd Earl, Lord
Chancellor (1794), seat, 442.

Bathurst, Henry, 3rd Earl (1834),
lived, 706 ; portrait, 726.
Batoni, painting by, 311.
Batten, Sir W;, Commander of the
Navy, buried (1667), 656.
Battiscombe, Percival, residence,
549-
Battles at : Barnet, 29 ; Brentford,
56 ; St. Albans, 522, 544.
Bauer, Francis, F.R.S., buried
(1840), 389.
Baxendale, Salisbury, residence,
374-
Baxter, Richard (Nonconformist
divine, 1691), lived, 627.
Baxter, William (1723), master at
Tottenham school, 624.
Bay Cottage, Edmonton, house in
which Charles Lamb lived and
died, 164.
Bayfordbury, contains Kit-Cat
portraits and other Tonson
relics, 33.
Baylis, 576
Baylis, Thomas, residence, 223.
Beach, Mary, nurse of Pope(i725),
mont., 641.
Beacon, ancient, 266.
Beacon Hill, 475.
Bean, Major G. (1815), mont., 503.
Bean, Patty (1785), mont., 468.
Beard, John (singer, 1791), mont.,
293-
Beauchamp, Richard, Bishop of
Salisbury (1481), tomb, 719.
Beauchamp, Earl, residence, 707.
Beauclerk, Lady Di. (1808), lived,
502, 633 ; buried, 504 ; portrait,
587-
Beauclerk, Lord Henry (1761),
mont., 564.
Beauclerk, Topham (1780), lived,
443-
Beaufort, Adml. Sir Francis (1857),
portrait, 255.
Beaufort House, Walham Green,
650.
Beaufort, Mary Duchess of, por
trait, 265.
Beaumont, residence of Warren
Hastings, now Roman Catholic
College, 735.
Beaumont and Fletcher, portraits,
408.
Beaumont, F. H., residence, 65.
Beaumont, Miss, residence, 639.
Beauties, Hampton Court, 306 ;
Windsor, 30S.
Bee, Anthony, Bp. of Durham,
died 1311, 169.
Beckenham Place, 36.
Beckett, Thomas a, stayed at, 321;
scholar at, 426.
Beckton, works of Chartered Gas
Comp., 161, 753.
Becontree Heath, 133.
Bed of Ware, the great, 518, 674.
Bedford, Anne, Countess of;
mother of William Lord Russell,
portrait, 272.
Bedford, Bridget, Countess Dow
ager of (1600), founded chapel ¦
mont. , 678.

Bedford, Francis, 4th Earl of
(1641), lived, 106.
Bedford, Lucy, Countess of, lived,
632.
Bedford, F., church by, 453.
Bedfords, 331.
Beddington House, 39.
Beddington Park, Roman remains
found in, 37.
Bedwell, W. (one ofthe translators
ofthe Bible, d. 1632), vicar; his
description of Tottenham, 616;
mont., 623.
Bedwell Park, 207.
Beech Bottom, a British earth
work, 544.
Beech Hill Park, Enfield, 189,
Beech Hill Park, High Beech, 343.
Beech trees, remarkable, 67, 344,
404, 409, 733. .
Beech, W. P., residence, 571,
Beech Wood, 344.
Beechey, SirW. (1839), lived, 290 ;
portraits by, 329, 330, 726,
Beechmont, 549.
Begg, Mrs., residence, 74.
Belhus, 18.
Bell, John, sculpture by, 750.
Bellamy, J., church by, 342.
Bellamy, Thomas, church by,
663.
Bellot, Joseph Rend (1853), obelisk
to, 254. . .
Bellucci, A. (1726), paintings by,
566.
Belmont, East Barnet, 32.
Belmont, Mill Hill, 431.
Belmont Castle, 245.
Belmont House, 557.
Belsham, William (1829), essayist
and historian, lived, 278.
Belsize House, 280; entertain
ments at, 283.
Beltraffio, G. A., painting by, 156.
Belvedere, Kent, 41.
Belvedere, Wimbledon,. 706.
Benbow, Vice-Admiral (1702), at
Sayes Court, 144; portrait, 255-
Benchesham, 131.
Benedict XIV., Pope (1758). por
trait, 311.
Benhilton, 593.
Benn, Anthony (1618), mont., 400.
Bennet, Rev. Ja.nes, editor of
Roger Ascham's Works, kept
school at, 359.
Bennet, Dame Leonora (1638),
mont., 647.
Bennet, Sir John, K.B., Lord
Ossuslton (1695), mont., 318.
Bennet, Capt. John (1706), mont.,
22.
Bennet, Timothy, secured free
passage through Bushey Park,
69 ; lived, 312.
Bensley, Sir William, R.N. (1809),
mont., 52.
Bentham, Jeremy (1832), lived,
4^3-
Bentley, Jas., residence, 95.
Bentley, Richard (1782), assists
Horace Walpole at Strawberry,
583 ; buried, 604.

INDEX.

75a

Bentley, Thomas (1780), Wedg
wood's partner, mont. , 107,
Bentley Heath, 474.
Bentley Priory, 564.
Benton, G. T. . residence, 737.
Benyon, Rev. E. F. , residence, 88.
Berens, H. Halse, residence, 557.
Berens, R. 15., residence, 125.
Beresford, Col. Marcus. M.P.,
residence, 550.
Berg, Henri, Comte de, portrait,
725- . ¦
Berghem, paintings by, 157, 408.
Berkeley, Earl of, attacked by a
highwayman, 371.
Berkeley, Earls of, seat, 121 ;
family monts., 121.
Berkeley Hunt, old kennel of, 509.
Berkeley of Stratton, John Lord
(1768), 632 ; mont., 641.
Berkeley, Admiral Sir W-, por
trait, 255.
Berkhamstead House, 43.
Berkheiden, G., painting by, 152.
Bernard, Lady (Auld Robin
Grey), lived, 707.
Bernard's Heath, scene of 2nd
battle of St. Albans, 544.
Berners, Juliana (c. 1500), abbess
of SopweU Nunnery, 539 ; Boke
of St. Alban's, 523, 539.
Berry, Mary, at Combe Bank, 592.
Berry, Mary and Agnes, at
Twickenham, 638 ; grave, 468.
Berry, Rear-Adml. Sir Edward
(1831), portrait, 255.
Berry, W. E., residence, 452.
Berry Wood, 10.
Berrymeade Priory, 4.
Besborough, Brabason Ponsonby,
Earl of, house and collections
at Roehampton, 5x1.
Besborough House, 511.
Betchworth Clump, 43.
Betchworth House, 43.
Betham, Rev. Edward, gifts and
bequests, 246.
Bethell, Richard (Lord West-
bury, d. 1873), lived, 352.
Bethune, Lieut. -Col. Drinkwater
(siege of Gibraltar, d. 1844),
lived ; mont., 415.
Betterton, Thomas, the actor
(1710), portrait, 7, 409.
Beulah Spa, 454.
Bevan, Frederick Lee, residence,
662.
Bevan, R. C. L., residence, 189.
Bevan, Thos., residence, 576.
Beveridge, Bp. (1708), vicar, 159.
Bexley, Nicholas Vansittart Lord
(Chancellor of the Exchequer),
residence and death (1850), 124.
Bible, Mazarene, fine copy of, 211.
Bible Society, origin, 112.
Eickersteth, Rev. Robert (Bishop
of Ripon), incumbent, 112.
Bickley Hall, 45.
Bidder, G. P., residence, 438.
Billington, Mrs. Ehz. (1818),
singer, lived, 276.
Binning, Lord, lived, 31.
Birch Grove, 430.

Bircham, F. T., residence, 662.
Bird, Edward, hanged 1714,
mont., 483.
Bird, Francis, statue by, 220.
Bishop, George, F.R.S., residence

and observatory, 633.
Bishop, Sir Henry R. (musical
composer, d. 1855), morit., 218.
Bishops of London, summer re
sidence of, 222.
Bishop's Hall, 411.
Bishop's Walk, 221.
Bishopsgate, 733.
Bittacy, 431.
Black House, 619.
Black Potts, 138.
Blackett, J. C, residence, 610.
Blackmore, Sir Richard (1729),
lived, 615.
Blackness, 649. 733.
Blacksmith, the Harmonious, 163,
567.
Blaine, D. P., residence, 485.
Blaize, St. , well and oratory, 62.
Blake Hall, 52.
Blake, Robert, General of the
Fleet (1657), portrait, 255.
Blake, William (1827), artist, at
Hampstead, 291.
Blake, William, woollen-draper,
philanthropist, and author of
' Silver Drops,' founds first
voluntary Charity School at
Highgate 349-
Blakesware (the Blakesmore of
Charles Lamb's Essay), 673.
Bland, General, lived, 382.
Blenkiron, W., racehorse stud,
171.
Blind, Royal Normal College and
Academy of Music for the, 454.
Blindley Heath, 232.
Bliss.Nathaniel, astronomer royal,
buried (1764), 416.
Blomfield, A. W., buildings by,
131, 136, 162, 208, 343, 349, 364.
550, 709.
Blomfield, Bp. (1857), mont., 220.
Blore, E. , church by, 579.
Blount, Charles, deistical writer
(16Q3), mont., 509.
Blount, G, building by, 60.
Blount, Sir H. Pope, 'Voyage
into the Levant' (1682), mont.,
509.
Blount, Martha and Theresa, por
traits, 588.
Blount, Sir Thomas Pope, De
Re Poetica ' (1697), mont., 509.
Bloxam, R., residence, 171.
Blucher, Prince von, portrait, 726.
Bludder, Sir Thomas (1618), and
wife, monts., 485.
Blunt, Rev. Henry (1843), rector,
590.

Blyth, H. H., residence, S54-
Board, Major, residence, 687.
Boar's Head, annual wrestling for,
360.
Bookman, paintings by, 306.
Bodkin, Sir W., lived, 353.
Bodie, Miss, residence, 98.
Bodley, Sir Thomas (1612),

founder of Bodleian Library,
lived, 226.
Boehm, J. E., sculpture by, 720,
726.
Bohn, H. G., residence, 639.
Bohun, Humphrey de, manor of,
173.
Bohun, John de, Earl of Hereford
and Essex (1335), buried, 578.
Bold, Henry, author of ' Virgil
Travestie' (1683), mont.. 643.
Boleyn, Anne, traditions respect
ing, 74, 162 ; at Hampton Court,
298 ; arrested, 250.
Bolmgbroke Lodge, 224.
Bolingbroke, Henry St. John
Lord (1751), rural retreat, 138 ;
its decoration, 139 ; sale, 139 ;
lived, 224; at Pope's Villa, 634.
Bolton, Duke of, lived, 50.
Bolton, Lavinia, Duchess of (Polly
Peachum, d. 1760), lived, 50;
mont., 262.
Bonaparte, Princes Joseph and
Lucien, resided, 140.
Bonaparte, Prince Lucien, resi
dence, 343.
Bonar, Thompson and Mrs., mur
dered (1813), 103.
Bone, H., R.A. (1834), enamels
by, 151, !52, i?8-
Bonevet, Adml. of France, met by
Earl of Surrey, 47.
Bonham Carter, Mrs., residence,
388.
Bonningtons, 374.
Bonsor, Mrs., residence, 603.
Bookham Grove, 53.
Bookham Lodge, 53.
Booksellers' Provident Retreat, 3.
Boord, J., residence, 317.
Booth, Barton, actor, buried
(1733), 120.
Booth, Hohler H., residence,
215.
Booth, Nathaniel, last Lord Dela-
mere, buried (1770), 286.
Boothby, Col. G., residence, 555.
Bordall, W., vicar of Chiswick
(d. 143s), built tower of church,
Bordone, Paris, painting by, 307.
Boreman, Richard, last Abbot of
St. Albans, 527.
Borlase, Rev. W. (1772), Cornish
antiquary, contributes to Pope s
grotto, 633- .
Borough-Enghsh, custom of, 94,
105, 158.
Borwick, R. H., residence, 55°-
Bosanquet, A., residence, 560.
Bosanquet, H. J. S., residence, 64.
Bosanquet, J. W., residence, 185.
Boscawen, Hon. Mrs., lived, 502.
Boscawen, Field-Marshal Ed
ward, portrait, 255.
Bostall or Borstal Heath, 2, 474.
Boston House, Brentford, 58.
Boston House, Hayes, 334.
Bosville, Sir Ralph, entertains
Queen Elizabeth, 510.
Botanic Gardens, Royal, Kew,
history and description of, 391.

760

INDEX.

Botanic Museum, Kew, 393.
Botany Bay Gardens, 475.
Both, J., paintings by, 167, 177.
Botleys, 92.
Botwell, 336.
Botwell Lodge, 336.
Boulder, remarkable granite, 80.
Bourgeois, Sir Francis (1811), col
lection of pictures, 156 ; Mauso
leum, 156.
Bourne, Vincent (1747), buried,
221.
Bourne Water, rising of, 126.
Bousfield, R., residence, 45.
Boustead, J., residence, 707.
Bow Bridge, 579.
Bowater, Lady, residence, 496.
Bower House, 333.
Bowes Manor, 500.
Bowles, H. C. B., residence, 178.
Bowling Green, noted place of en
tertainment, Putney, 478 ; after
wards residence of William Pitt,
479-
Bowyer, Mrs., mont., 112.
Bowyer, William, learned printer
(1737), mont., 419.
Box trees, 154.
Boyd, Sir John, builds house at
Danson Park, 682.
Boyle, Field-Marshal Richard,
2nd and last Lord Shannon
(1740), lived, 661 ; mont., 660.
Boyle, Richard, architect Earl of
Burlington, his Chiswick villa,
108 ; died (1753), 107.
Boyle, Sir Robert, portrait, 311.
Boyle, Robert (1691), Natural
Philosopher, lived, 639.
Boyle Farm, 148.
Boyle's Court, 682.
Boys' Home, Horton Kirby, 368.
Brace, F. E., residence, 576.
Brackenburg, Major H., resi
dence, 556.
Bradbourne Hall, 510.
Bradley, James (1762), discovery
of aberration, 389 ; residence
and observations at Wanstead,
669.
Bradmore House, 277.
Bradshaw, President (1659), lived;
79 ; house, 661.
Brady, Nicholas (1726), lived, 504.
Braham, John(i83i), portrait, 588.
Branch Hill Lodge, 288.
Brandenburg Anspach, Margra
vine, house and entertainments.
276.
Brandenburg House, 275 ; Queen
Caroline lived and died at (1821),
276.
Brandon, David, F.S.A., churches
by, 138, 325.
Brandon, Raphael, church by, 755.
Brandon, Thomas, residence, 699.
Brandreth, Mrs., residence, 421.
Brank, or gossip's bridle, 661.
Brasses : Abbots' Langley, 2 ;
Addington, 6 ; Aldenham, 9 ;
Ashford, 16 ; Aveley, 18 : Bark
ing, 22 ; Barnes, 27 ; Bayford,
33 ; Beckenham, 36 ; Bedding

ton, 40 ; Betchworth, 43 ; Bex
ley, 45 ; Bletchingley, 51 ; Book
ham, 53 ; Bromley, 61 ; Brox
bourne, 63 ; Jjyfleet, 70 ; Car-
shalton, 75 ; JShalfont St. Giles,
82 ; Chalfont St. Peters, 83 ;
Cheam, 86 ; Chelsfield, 87 ;
Cheshunt, 94 ; Chevening, 97 ;
Chigwell (celebrated of Abp.
Harsnett, 1631), 98 ; Chisel-
hurst, 102 ; Cobham, 113 ; Cow
ley, 120; Cray St. Mary, 124;
Dagenham, 133 ; Dartford, 136 ;
Denham (of Agnes Jordan, last
Abbess of Syon), 140; Ditton,
148 ; Drayton, 154 ; East Ham,
161 ; Eastwick, 162 ; Edgware,
163 ; Edmonton, 164 ; Egham,
166 ; Enfield (fine), 180 ; Erith,
201 ; Essenden, 207 ; Eweil,
213 ; Farley, 213 ; Farming-
ham, 215 ; Finchley, 217 ; Ful
ham, 220 ; Greenford, 246
Hadley, 267 ; Halstead, 269
Harefield, 316 ; Harlingtoa
318 ; Harrow, 321 ; Hayes.
Kent, 334 ; Hayes, Middlesex,
336 ; Heston (curious) 342
Hillingdon, 357 ; Horndon,
East, 361 ; Hornsey, 364 ; Hor
ton Kirby, 368 ; Hunsdon, 374
Ickenham, 375 ; Ingrave, 378
Isleworth, 381 ; Iver, 383 ; Kel
vedon, 384 ; Kemsing, 384 ;
Kingsbury, 395 ; King's Lang
ley* 397 ; Kingston, 400 ; Lam
bourne, 411 ; Langley Marsh
412 ; Latton, 413 : Leather
head, 415 ; Lewisham, 417
Littleton, 421 ; Lullingstone
423 ; Merstham, 425 ; Mickle
ham, 429 ; Mims, North, 434
Molesey, East, 437 ; Morden.
438 ; Northfleet, 451 ; Northolt
452 ; Nutfield, 455 ; Ockenden.
North, 456 ; Ockenden, South
457 J Ongar, 458 ; Orpington
460 ; Oxtead, 463 ; Perivale.
467 ; Pinner, 470 ; Rainham
481 ; Richmond, 503 ; Rick
mansworth, 506; Roydon, 515
Ruislip, 515 ; St. Albans, 534,
540 ; Seal, 547 ; Southfleet, 559 :
Stanford Rivers, 563 ; Stifford,.
571 ; Stoke d'Abernon (among
the finest extant), 572 ; Stoke
Poges, 575 ; Stone, 577; Sun
dridge, 593 ; Theydon Garnon,
608 ; Thorpe, 610 ; Thurrock,
West, 611 ; Tottenham, 623 :
Upminster, 643 ; Upton, 644 ;
Waltham Abbey, 654; Waltham-
stow,657; Walton-upon-Thames,
660 ; Ware, 674 ; Watford, 679 ;
Weald, South, 681 ; Westerham,

686 ; Weybridge, 693 ; Wick
ham, East, 695 ; Wickham,
West, 697 ; Willesden, 698 ;

St. George's Chapel, Windsor,
720 ; Wormley, 754 ; Wyrardis-
oury. 755.
Bray, Sir Reginald, founds chapel;
buried (1502), 719.

Breakspeare, Nicholas (Pope
Adrian IV., d. 1159), birth
place, 2 ; reputed family seat,
317 ; favours Abbot of St.
Albans, 521.
Breakspears, 317.
Breech-loading guns, ancient, 751.
Brentford, battle of, 56.
Brentford, kings of, 56 ; inns, 56 ;
witches, 57.
Bretts, 19.
Brewer Street, 51.
Brewers' Company's Almshouses>
435-
Brickendon, 341.
Brickendonbury, 341.
Brideoak, Bp. of Chichester
(1678), mont., 720.
Bridge, Staines, one of earliest
after London on Lower Thames,
562.
Bridge, J., residence, 336.
Bridgetines, only convent of, irt
England, 378.
Bridgman, Sir Orlando (1674V
mont., 604.
Briggin's Park, 374.
Briggs, H. P., R.A. (1844), paint
ings by, 255, 256.
Brigstock, Mrs., residence, 189.
Broadhams, 463.
Broadhurst, Hon. Mrs., residence,.
500.
Brocket family monts., 326.
Brocket Hall, 326.
Brockham Home, Industrial
School, 60.
Brockham Lodge, residence of
Captain Morris, 60.
Brockham Warren, 60.
Brockley Hill, supposed site of
Roman Sullonica^, 163.
Brodie, SirBenj., Bart., residence,
60.
Brodrick family monts., 665 ; seat,
666.
BrogHe, Madame de, lived, 430.
Broke House, 269.
Brokenhurst House, 662.
Brdmley College, 62.
Bromley Palace, 62.
Brompton, Richard, portrait by„
96.
Brondesbury, 699.
Brondesbury Park, 699.
Bronzino, painting by, 308.
Brook Green, 278.
Brooke, Edward, residence, 354.
Brookes, Robert, residence, 199.
Brookfield House, 354.
Brookland House, 676.
Brookmans, 433.
Brooks, J., churches by, 468 471.
Broom House, 224.
Broome Park, 43.
Broomfield, Clapham, 111.
Broomfield, Stanmore, 565.
Broomfield Park, 560.
Brouncker, Henry, Visct. (1688),
lived, 551 ; mont., 503.
Brown, Sir Anthony (1567), founds
schools and almshouses, 60;
brass, 681.

INDEX.

761

CAM I) RIDGE.

Brown, Lyde, residence ; collec
tion of antique sculpture ; death,
706.
Brown, Launcelot (Capability,
d. 1783), house built by, 206 ; re
arranges grounds at Claremont,
206 ; Kew, 390 ; Richmond, 494 ;
Syon, 602 ; Totteridge, 626 ;
Danson Park, 682 ; George III.
on his death , 390.
Browne, Dr. Edward, physician to
Charles II. (1708), mont., 451.
Browne, Sir Richard (1604), mont.
to, at Deptford, 146,
Browne, William (Britannia's Pas
torals, c. 1645), lived, 44.
Brownlowe, Dame Dorothy (1700),
mont., 594.
Broxbourne Bury, 64.
Bruce Castle, 618, manor-house of
the Bruces of Scotland ; resi
dence of Lord Compton, the
Lords Colerane, and of Aid.
Townsend, 618 ; converted into
a school by Rowland Hill and
brothers, 619.
Bruce, James (1794), African tra
veller, married, 334.
Bruce, Lord Justice Sir J.
Knight, residence, 511.
Brun, Robert de(i4i7), mont, 87.
Brunswick House, residence of
Dowager Duchess of Brunswick,
49.
Brunswick, Duke of, portrait, 726.
Bruyns, 457.
Brydges, James, Paymaster ofthe
Forces in the reign of Queen
Anne, lived, 72.
Buccleuch, Duke of, seat, 501,
576.
Buccleuch House, and garden par
ties, 501.
Buchan, Mrs., residence, 313.
Buckingham, George Villiers, ist
Duke of (1628), portraits, 263,
310,407, 462 ; of sons, 725.
Buckingham, George Villiers, 2nd
Duke of (1688), kills Earl of
Shrewsbury in a duel, 26 ; por
trait, 725.
Buckland Court, 65.
Buckland Lodge, 65.
Buckler, Charles, churches by,
592, 709.
Buckley, Samuel, editor of Thu-
anus (1741), mont., 364.
Bucknall, John Askell (1796),
mont., 680.
Budgett, J. S., residence, 160.
Budworth, J. P., residence, 247.
Bui, John(i62i), mont., 395.
Bull's Cross, 185.
Bull, J , residence, 445.
Bullen, J. N., residence, 590.
Bulstrode, 230.
Bulstrode family brasses, 644.
Bulstrode House, 342.
Bulwer, Sir E. Lytton, Lord
Lytton (1873), lived, 223, 470.
Bulwer, Sir Henry Lytton (Lord
Dalling, d. 1872), lived, 502.
Bundy, Dr. Richard, lived, 31.

Bunning (City architect), building
°y. 577-
Bunsen, Baron vqn (i860), lived,
626.
Bunter, R. W., residence, 122.
Bunting, J. F., residence, 182.
Buntings, 375.
Burbage, Richard, Shakspeare's
partner in BLickfriars (1619),
lived, 226 ; portrait, 155.
Burchell, Dr., African traveller,
lived, 225.
Burdett, Lieut.-Col. F., residence,
499.
Burdett, Sir Francis (1844), lived,
149, 706 ; duel with Mr. Paull,
705.
Burdett, Col. Sedley, residence,
463-
Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, seat,
353-
Burford Bridge, 55.
Burges, W., buildings by, 135,
323 ; restoration of Waltham
Abbey church, 653.
Burgh, H. de, residence, 154.
Burgh, Hubert de, Chief Justi
ciary (1243), takes sanctuary in
Merton Priory, 426.
Burgoyne, Sir J. (1792), lived, 224.
Burhill, 662.
Burial custom, 619.
Burke, Edmund (1797), meeting
with Erskine at Hampstead,
288 ; lived, 472 ; portrait, 409.
Burleigh (Burghley), William
Cecil, Lord (1598), builds Theo
balds, 605 ; entertains Queen
Elizabeth there, 605 ; his house
keeping, 605 ; diary and papers,
330 ; portraits, 263, 329.
Burlington, architect Earl _ of,
his Chiswick villa, 108 ; died,
107.
Burn, W., mausoleum by, 512.
Burney, Dr. Charles (1817), poetic
inscription by, 95 ; tutor and
marriage, 107 ; rector, 147 ; kept
school, 278.
Burney, Fanny (Madame D'Ar
blay, d. 1840), at Kew, 389 ; at
Norbury ; marriage ; writes
Camilla ; Camilla Lacy built for,
43°-
Burnham Abbey, 66'; Beeches, 66.
Burton, Decimus, buildings by,
H4> 387> 391. 394-
Burton, Hezekiah (1681), rectory,
27.
Burwood House, 662.
Burwood Park, 662.
Bury Hall, 166.
Bury Hill, 152.
Bury, Talbot, churches by, 436,
623.
Bush Hill Park, 707.
Bushey Hall, 69.
Bushey House, 69.
Bushnell, John U701), sculpture
by, 220.
Bute, Earl (1792), at White Lodge,
Richmond, 495 ; at Twicken
ham, 639.

Bute House, seat of Marquis of
Bute, 470.
Butler, Joseph, Bp. of Durham
(Analogy, d. 1752), lived, 287.
Butler, J. F., residence, 99.
Butterfield, W., churches by, 1 6,
29, 222, 274, 275, 622, 693.
Butterwick Manor House, 277.
Butts, Sir W., physician to Henry
VIII. (1545), mont., 220,
Buxton, Edward N., residence
737-
Buxton, Thomas Fowell, resi
dence, 568.
Byfield, Nicholas (1622), vicar of
Isleworth, 381.
Byfield, Rev. Richard (1664),
mont., 440.
Byfleet Lodge, 70.
Byles, Rt. Hon. Sir J., residence,.
3i7-
Byng, Adml. George, ist Visct.
Torrington (1733), portrait, 256-
Byng, Adml. (1757), lived, 435.
Byng, G. Stephens, residence, 30.
Byng, George, M.P., lived, 474.
Byrken Manor House, 365.
Byron, Adml. (1786), buried, 642.
Byron, Adml. Richard (1837),
mont., 415.
Byron, E., residence, 117.
Byron, Lord (1824), scholar at
Harrow ; tree and tomb, 322 ; on
prospect from Shooter's Hill,,
555-
Cabal, The, meeting-place, 270.
Cade, Jack (1450), encamped at,.
46, 548.
Cadell, Thos. (publisher), buried
(1803), 172.
Caen Wood, 71.
Caen Wood Towers, 354.
Caesar crossed Thames, 118.
Caesar's Camp, Wimbledon, 700,,
705 ; destroyed by landowner,,
705-
Caesar's Well, 386.
Csesar, Sir Julius (1636), seat 7
entertains Queen Elizabeth, 436 ;
lived, 620.
Caledon, Countess of, seat, 421.
Calico Printing Works, 122.
Callard, Mrs., residence, 69.
Callcott, Sir A. W. (1844), paint
ing by, 77.
Calonne, M. C. A. de (1802),
French minister, lived, 706.
Calvert, Lady (1622), mont, 341.
Camborne House, 502.
Cambridge, Asylum for Soldiers"
Widows, 403.
Cambridge, Archdeacon, lived,
632.
Cambridge Cottage, 390.
Cambridge, Duke of (1850), buried,.
388 ; portrait, 726.
Cambridge, Duchess of, residence,
39°-
Cambridge House, Norwood, 452.
Cambridge House, Twickenham,.
632.
Cambridge, Richard Owen (1802),,

762

INDEX.

CAMEPIDGE.

CHALONER.

house ; literary parties ; Boswell,
Johnson, Reynolds, and Gibbon
at ; death, 632 ; mont, 641.
Cambridge Park, Twickenham,
633-
Camden, Charles Pratt, Earl
(1794), lived, 103 ; mont., 547.
Camden, Marquis, seat of, 548.
Camden Place, 103.
Camden, William (1623), lived, 103,
Camels reared at, 607.
Camfield, 207.
Camlet Moat, lurking-place of
Dick Turpin, 174, 189.
Campbell, Caroline, daughter of
4th Duke of Argyll, and wife
of Field-Marshal Conway, mont. ,
593-
Campbell, Colin (1734), mansion
by, 668.
Campbell, Colquhoun, Rev. J. E.,
residence, 687.
Campbell, Lady Frederick, Coun
tess Ferrers, burnt to death
(1809), 592.
Campbell, Sir Hugh, residence,
5i5-
Campbell, John, afterwards Duke
of Argyll, rebuilds Combe Bank,
592.
Campbell, Thomas (1844), at
Hampstead, 289 ; at Sydenham,
599 ; son at asylum at High
Beech, 343.
Campe, Lawrence, almshouses
founded by, 32.
Campegius, Cardinal, at, 47.
Canal, Grand Junction, terminates,
58.
Canaletto, paintings by, 177, 228,
306, 583, 728.
Candeler, Richard (1602), mont.,
622.
Candy, Mrs., residence, 97.
Cannizaro, former residence of
Duke ot Cannizaro, 707.
Canning, Elizabeth, story of, 182.
Canning, George, duel with Lord
Castlereagh, 478 ; died (1827),
no; portrait, 726.
Canning, Sir Samuel, Bart, resi
dence, 3.
¦Canova, sculpture by, 151, 681.
Cantecroix, iieatrice, Princess of,
portrait, 725.
Canterbury, Abps., seat of, 5 ;
former palaces, 126, 130, 404,
462 ; chapel, 130 ; occasional
residences, 321, 335, 439 ; monts.,
6, 128, 129.
Canterbury, Manners Sutton,
Visct. , Speaker of House of
Commons (1845), mont, 6.
Canterbury Pilgrims, halting-places
of, 136, 483, 597, 610.
Capel, Arthur, ist Lord and Lady,
portraits of, 264.
Capel, Sir Henry, seat ; visited by
Evelyn, 389.
¦Capel, Lady, lived ; buried, 389.
Capel House, 185.
Capo dTstrias, Count, portrait,
726.

Capper, R., residence, 318.
Caravaggio, painting by, 157.
Garden, Aid. Sir Robert, resi
dence, 438. *,-
Cardigan, Earl of, duel with Capt.
H. Tuckett, 705.
Cardigan House, 500.
Cardinal's Cap, remains of Roman
camp, 52.
Carew family, seat of, 38 ; history,
38 ; monts., 40.
Carew, Sir George, portrait, 310.
Carew, Sir Nicholas, lived, 51 ;
built house, 90.
Carey family seat, 373.
Carigan, Thomas, Prince of, 725.
Carlile, J. W., residence, 326.
Carlingford, Lord, seat, 580 ; por
trait, 588.
Carlisle, Lucy, Countess of, por
trait, 725.
Carlos, Thomas (1665), mont, 221.
Caroline, Queen ot George II. , at
Hampton Court, 303 ; at Rich
mond, 491 ; her alterations there,
493- .
Caroline, Princess of Wales,Queen
of George IV., lived, 50, 85 ;
appointed Ranger of Greenwich
Park, 49 ; died (1821) at Branden
burg House, 276.
Carpenter, H. H., church by, 87.
Carpenters' Company's Alms
houses, 642.
Carr, Sir Edward (1635), mont.,
357- . .
Carracci, Annibale, paintings by,
177, 728.
Carshalton Park, 75.
Carter, John, F.S.A.(i8i7),buried,
286.
Cartoons, copied in tapestry, 440.
Cartwright, George, actor, lived,
226 ; portrait, 155.
Cartwright, Major (1824), lived,
185; mont., 217.
Cary, Rev. H. F. (translator of
Dante, d. 1844), purchased
Hogarth's house, 108.
CassiveUaunus, town of, 518 ;
opposes Caesar crossing the
Thames, 118; supposed vestiges
of Oppidum, 545.
Castlebar, 159.
Castle Hill, 189.
Castle House, 555.
Castle Wood, 555.
Castlemaine, Barbara Palmer,
Countess of, and Duchess of
Cleveland, buried (1709), 106 ;
at Richmond, 491 ; pulls down
Nonsuch, 447.
Castlenau, hamlet and reservoirs,
28.
Castlereagh, Lord, Marquis of
Londonderry, duel with Can
ning, 478 ; residence ; died (1822),
124.
Castro, painting by, 681,
Cater, J. W., residence, 188.
Caterham Court House, 78.
Catherine of Braganza (1705) at
Hampton, 301 ; lived, 277 ; por

traits, 235, 264 ; as Britannia,
724.
Catherine II. of Russia (1796), por
trait, 407.
Cattle Market, Foreign, 143.
Cattley, J., residence, 101.
Cave, Thomas, residence, 501.
Cave, Dr, William (1713), vicar of
Isleworth, 381.
Cavendish, Lord Frederic, resi
dence, 632.
Cavendish, Henry, the ' Newton
of Chemistry,' lived and died
(1S10), in.
Cavendish, Hon. Mrs., residence,
92.
Cavendish, Lord Richard, resi
dence, 105.
Cavendish, Thomas (1593), por
trait, 255.
Cavendish, William (1557,) Wol
sey 's Gentleman Usher at Hamp
ton Court, 297 ; obtains grant of
Northaw, 449.
Caverns in chalk, 46, 63, 80, 88,
105, 123, 137, 597, 610, 612.
Cawarden, Sir Thomas (1559),
lived ; mont., 51.
Cawley, J., residence, 455^
Ceadda, or Chad, A.-S. saint and
bp., 80.
Ceawlin, King of Wessex, defeats
Ethelbricht, King of Kent, 700.
Cecil Lodge, 2.
Cecil MSS., 330.
Cecil, Sir Thomas (Earl of Exeter),
built Wimbledon House, 709.
Cecil, Sir William (Lord Burleigh)
(1598), builds Theobalds, 605.
Cecil family portraits, 329, 330.
Cedar House, 358.
Cedar trees, large, 113, 114, 124,
132, 152, 177, 469, 593, 644, 662,
691 ; first planted in England,
176.
Cedars, The, Denham, 140 ; Har-
lington, 318; Norwood, 524;
Rickmansworth, 509 ; Sheen,
550 ; Theobalds, 95.
Cedd, St., apostle of the East
Saxons, 80, 612, 613.
Cella, Abbot John de (1214), re
builds part of St. Albans Abbey
church, 526.
Cellini, Benvenuto (1570), works
by? 5^5 ; shield, 727 ; cup, 728.
Cemeteries : Great Northern, 32,
115 ; Marylebone, 218 ; Isling
ton and St. Pancras, 218 ; High-
gate, 349 ; Huguenots', 664 ;
Jews', 685, 699 ; Norwood, 454-
Chadwell, head-spring of New
River, 675.
Chadwick, Edwin, C.B., residence,
55o-
Chalfont Park, 83. .
Chalk church, 243.
Chalk pits, great, 243, 246.
Chalk with flints, good section of,
385-
Chaloner, Sir Thomas (1615),
discoverer of first alum mines
in England, lived, 107.

INDEX.

763

Chalvey, 645.
Chambers, curious, in Horndon
church, 361.
Chambers, Sir William (1796),
works at Kew, 380, ; buildings
by, 394. 498, 511 ; lives at Whit
ton Place, 694.
Chancellor, F., church by, 438.
Chandos, Duke of (1744). builds
Canons ; sumptuousness ; style
of living ; Pope's satire, 72, 565-
6; builds church, 565; mont,
566.
Chandos, George, 6th Lord, kills
Col. H. Compton in a duel,
478.
Chantrey, Sir Francis (1S41),
married, 640 ; sculpture by, 84,
97, i°3< II2« I24> J9^> 2QI> 4°°'
660, 726, 727.
Chapel House, Twickenham, re
sidence of Alfred Tennyson,
639.
Chapman, D. B., residence, 511.
Chapman, F., residence, 739.
Chapman, J., residence, 127.
Chapone, Mrs. Hester (1801),
tomb, 267.
Charcoal-burners at Croydon, 127.
Chardin, Sir John (1712), the
traveller, lived, 627 ; buried,
106.
Charles I. receives deputation from
Parliament, 114; forces en
camped, 219; visits Gravesend,
237 ; at Greenwich, 251 ; at
Hampton Court, 300 ; at Hat
field, 328 ; Hillingdon, 356 ; at
Theobalds, 607 ; Oatlands, 688 ;
Wimbledon House, 701 ; en
camped at Hounslow Heath,
369 ; head-quarters at King
ston, 219; last fight for, at
Kingston, 399 ; at Windsor,
714; buried, 715; grave, 715,
718 ; portraits, 261, 264, 307,
330, 725, 726 ; portraits of chil
dren, 725.
Charles II. educated at Rich
mond, 491 ; at Blackheath, 47 ;
an angler, 138 ; concealed at
Denham Court, 140 ; additions
to Greenwich Palace, 253 ; at
Hampton Court, 301 ; at Houns
low Heath, 369 ; at Windsor ;
improvements there, 715 ; por
traits, 264, 272, 681, 725, 726 ;
equestrian statue of, 724.
Charles V., Emperor, at Graves
end, 237 ; at Richmond, 490 ;
portrait, 727.
Charles X. of France, portrait,
726.
Charles XII. of Sweden, portrait,
33°-
Charles, Archduke of Austria,
portrait, 726.
Charlotte, Queen, wife of George
III., at Kew, 390, 391 ; her
description of Ham House, 272 ;
at Richmond, 494 : died (1818),
390 ; grave, 718 ; portrait, 602.
Charlotte, Princess (1817), lived at

Blackheath, 50; at Claremont,
206 ; at Windsor, 733 ; grave,
718 ; mont,, 720.
Charlton Hou.se#84.
Charlville, Lady, lived, 382.
Charnock, John, F.S.A. (1807),
buried, 416.
Chart Park united with Deepdene,
152.
Chart's Edge, 687.
Chartwell, 687.
Chase Park, 176.
Chase Side House, 176.
Chater, Henry, residence, 216.
Chatham (William Pitt), Earl of,
lived, 188, 289, 696 ; attachment
to Hayes, 334; died (1778), 334.
Chaucer, Geoffrey (1400), clerk
ofthe works at Windsor, 712.
Cheesman, Edward (1547), cofferer
to Henry VII., mont., 452.
Chelsham Court, 88.
Chenevix, Mrs., house purchased
by Horace Walpole, 580.
Cherry orchards, 699.
Cheselden, Wm., surgeon (1752),
designs Putney Bridge, 227.
Cheshunt Park, 95.
Chesnut Avenue, Bushey Park,
69.
Chesnut trees, remarkable, 44,
no, 177, 259.
Chesnuts, The, 383.
Chesterfield, Philip Earl of (1773),
lived, 49, 576.
Chewton, Visct., seat, 53.
Chichester training ship, 247.
Chichester, Lady, seat, 633.
Chicken House, Hampstead, 287.
Chiffmch,W. (Backstairs), portrait,
236.
Child, Miss, residence, 185.
Child, Mrs. Coles, residence, 62.
Child, Sir Francis (Lord Mayor
1699, d. 1713), seat, 226; mont.,
221.
Child, Sir Francis, the younger,
purchases Osterley, 461.
Child, Sir Josiah (1699), lived,
668 ; mont., 669.
Child, Robert (1782), rebuilds and
furnishes Osterley, 461 ; por
trait, 462 ; estate, 597.
Childerditch Hall, 99.
Chipstead Place, 97.
Chiswick Hall; the ChiswickPress,
105.
Chiswick House, 108 ; rented by
Prince of Wales, no.
Cholmeley, Sir Roger, founds
Grammar School, Highgate,
347-
Chorley, and Chorley Wood, 509.
Christ's Hospital School, Hert
ford, 340.
Christian, E., churches by, 13, 31.
Christian IV., of Denmark, at
Gravesend, 237 ; at Theobalds,
606 ; at Windsor, 714; portrait,
3°7-
Christian, Prince and Princess, of
Schleswig-Holstein, residence,
73z-

Christus, Peter, portrait by, 235.
Christy, John, residence, 133.
Chudleigh, mont. to Sir John and
Lady (1628), 503.
Church, A.-S. wooden, 247.
Church chests, 215, 515, 573.
Church plays at Kingston, 401.
Churchill, Charles (1764), poet,
curate, 481.
Churchill, Admiral George, por
trait, 255.
Cibber, Colley (1757), lived, 580 ;
manager of plays at Hampton
Court, 302.
Cibber, Theophilus (1758), opens
Richmond Theatre as Cephalic
snuff warehouse, 505.
Cignani, Carlo, cartoons by, 305.
Cipriani, J. B. (1785), lived, 450;
painting by, 420,.
City Barge, Maria Wood, 391.
City Hunt, 193.
Clabbernabber's Hole, 593.
Clanricarde, Marchioness of, por
trait, 587.
Clapham Sect ; houses and meet
ings, in.
Clare, John (1864), at High Beech,
343- „, ,
Claremont, Cheshunt, 95.
Claremont, Esher, 205.
Clarence, Duke of (William IV.),
lived, 469, 511.
Clarence Lodge, 511.
Clarendon, Earl of, seat, 262.
Clarendon, Edward Hyde, first
Earl of (1674), Lord Chancellor,
lived, 630; collection of con
temporary portraits ; the Chan
cellor's portrait, 264.
Clarendon, Henry, 4th Earl of
(1870), Foreign Minister, por
trait, 265 ; buried, 679.
Clarendon, Countess of, portrait,
587-
Clarendon portraits, 263.
Clark, Dr. George, portrait, 265.
Clark, Sir Thomas, Master of the
Rolls, lived, 288.
Clarke, Dorothy (1695), mont.,
221.
Clarke, G. C, building by, 558.
Clarke, G. Wyatt, residence, 430.
Clarke, J., buildings by, 40, 63,
94, 663.
Clarke, Mrs. Jane (1757X mont.,
36-
Clarke, J. T., residence, 358.
Clarke, T. C, building by, 368.
Clarke, W. B., restored Eleanor
Cross, 656.
Clarke, T. Tresdale, seat, 375- .
Clarke-Thornhill, W. C, resi
dence, 375- ... ,
Claude Lorraine, landscapes by,
727 ; drawings by, 73°-
Clay Hill, 185- . , _ ,
Clay, Sir William and Lady,
mont, 642.
Claybury Hall, 737.
Claysmore, 185-
Clayton, James, Lord of the Vache
(1714), mont, 82.

764

INDEX.

CORNWALLIS.

Clayton, Rev. John and Rev.
George, lived, 644.
Clayton, Sir Robert, of Marden,
the 'extorting Ishban' of Dry-
den, Father of the City of
London (1707), mont., 51 ; seat,
233.
Cleasby, Baron Sir A., residence,
88
Clerk, W. T., C.E., pier built by,
242.
Clerke, Griffith, vicar of Wands
worth, hanged along with his
chaplain and servant (1539),
665.
Cleveland, Dowager Duchess of,
residence, 462.
Cleyn, Francis (1658), designer of
tapestry at Mortlake, 439.
Clifden, Louisa Viscountess (1802),
mont., 641.
Clifden, Visct ,at Roehampton, 511.
Cliff House, 246.
Clifton, W. H., residence, 514.
Clitherow, Col. E. J. S., seat, 58.
Clive, Mrs. Catherine (1785), at
Little Marble Hill, 633; at
Little Strawberry ; robbed by a
highwayman, 638 ; mont., 64L
Clive, Lord (1774), at Claremont,
206.
Clock House, 644.
Clock Tower, ancient, St. Albans,
524-
Cluck and Watchmakers' Alms
houses, 115.
Close, Col. T., residence, 384.
Clouet, Fr. (Janet), portraits by,
310, 724.
Clowes, C, residence, 384.
Clutterbuck, Robert (1831), ' Hist.
and Ants, of Hertford,' mont.,
679.
Clutton, H., buildings by, 104,
564.
Clutton, Robert, residence, 65.
Cobbett, William (1835), lived, 27.
Cobham Hall, 243.
Cobham, Lady, at Stoke Poges,
574-
Cobham Lodge, 113.
Cobham Park, 113.
Cock Fosters, 185.
Cock, Sir Henry, Knt. (1609),
mont, 63.
Cockerel], C. R., R.A. (1863),
church by, 323.
Cockerell, F. C, school by, 348.
Coe, O. E., residence, 331.
Coke, Sir Edward, lived, 461 ;
entertained Queen Elizabeth ;
papers seized ; died (1634), 573 ;
memorial column and statue,574.
Cole, Capt. A. W., residence, 342.
Cole, George (1624), mont, 468.
Cole Green, 341.
Cole Green House, 341.
Cole; William (1782), the Cam
bridge antiquary, held living,
3^4-
Colebrooke, T. R., residence, 8.
Coleman, E. J., residence, 574.
Colerane, Henry Lord (1749),

residence ; portrait, 618 ; grave,
622.
Colerane, Hugh Lord (1685), and
wife, mont., 623.
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor (1834),
lived, 278 ; at Highgate, 348 ;
mont. of, and family, 348.
Coleshill, Sir Thomas (i595),
mont, 98.
Colet, Dean(i5ig), lived and died,
55o.
Colham, 154.
Colham Manor House, occasional
residence ofthe Earls of Derby,
357-
Colleges : Royal Medical, 94 ;
God's Gift, Alleyne's, Dulwich,
155 ; Royal Medical Benevolent,
196 ; Daughters of Congrega
tional Ministers, 242 ; Countess
of Huntingdon's, 04 ; Wesleyan
Theological, 504; London Inter
national, 561.
Collet, Peter (1607), mont., 87.
Colliers of Croydon, 127.
Collingwood, Admiral Lord (1810),
portrait, 255.
Collins, Anthony (1729), deistical
writer, born, 342, 381.
Collins, H. H., building by, 16.
Collins, Wm., R.A. (1847), at
Hampstead, 290 ; painting by,
77-
Collinson, Peter (1768), Botanic
Gardens, 431.
Colman, George (1794), at Rich
mond, 501.
Colman, J.j residence, 75.
Col mongers, 455.
Colne Lodge, residence of Paul
Whitehead, 639.
Colney Park, 422.
Colquhoun, Sir P., Q.C, resi
dence, 554.
Colston, Edward, Bristol bene
factor, died (1721), 442.
Colton, Chas. Caleb (Lacon, d.
1832), held living, 469.
Combe, Alderman Harvey C.
(1818), mausoleum, 113.
Combe, 403.
Combe Bank, 592.
Combe Lodge, 676.
Combe House, 116.
Combe, Mrs. Anne, mont., z.
Combe, C, residence, 113.
Commercial Travellers' Schools,
470.
Complete Angler, scene of, 675.
Compton, Bp. (1713), mont., 221;
portrait, 222.
Compton, Henry Lord, entertains
Q u een Elizabeth at Bruce Castle,
618.
Compton, Sir William, rebuilds
Bruce Castle, and entertains
Henry VIII., 618.
Conde, Prince de (father of the
Due d'Enghien), lived, 669, 706.
CondtS, Prince, L. A. (1866),
buried, 693.
Condell, Henry (Shakspeare actor,
d„ 1627), lived, 226.

dra-

Congreve, William (1729),
matic poet, portrait. 235.
Congreve, Sir William (1828),
lived, 706; mont., 84.
Conolly, Lady Anne, lived, 631.
Conolly, John, M.D. (1866), im
proves treatment of lunatics,
313.
Constable, John, R.A. (1837),
sketching picnic with Stothard
in Combe Wood ; lived, 116.
290 ; tomb, 285.
Convalescent Hospitals: for chil
dren, 351, 403 ; branch of St.
Bartholomew's, 352 : Morley-
Atkinson branch of St. George's,
704, 707; Metropolitan Insti
tute, 663 ; Jewish Home, 453 ;
Mrs. Gladstone's, 736.
Conyers, Sir Gerard, Lord Mayor
(1737), mont., 657.
Cook, Capt. James (circumnavi
gator, d. 1779), visitor at Den-
ham Place, 140 ; portrait, 255 ;
memorial, erected by Admiral
Sir Hugh Palliser, 82.
Cook, Moses, laid out Cassiobury
Park, 78.
Cooke, Sir Anthony (1576), pre
ceptor to Edward VI. ; mont,
512 ; his fortunate daughters,
513.
Cooke, C H., buildings by, 275
376.
Cooke, Edward W., R.A., resi
dence, 28.
Cookson, Mrs., residence, 207.
Coombelands, 8.
Coope, Octavius E-, M.P., resi
dence, 682.
Cooper, Abraham, R.A. (1868),
painting by, 77.
Cooper, Jas. (1743)* mont., 684.
Coopers, 105.
Coopersale Hall, 609.
Coopersale House, 609.
Copestake, S., residence, 593.
Copley, J. Singleton, R.A. (d.
1815, father of Lord Lyndhurst),
portrait by, 255; mont, 129.
Copped Hall, Epping, 190.
Copped Hall, Totteridge, 626.
Copt Hall, residence of John, nth
Earl of Mar ; of Admiral Fox ;
and Lady Conolly, 639.
Corbet, C, residence, 149.
Corbet, J. R.. residence, 43.
Corbet, John (1680), Nonconformist
divine, lived, 627.
Corbet, Richard,poet, Bp. of Nor
wich (1635), born, 213 ; lived,
639.
Corbet, Vincent, father of Bp.,
213 ; nursery ; buried (1619), 694.
Corderoy, G., residence, 375-
Cornbury, Lord and Lady, por
trait, 265.
Corney House, no.
Cornwall, Reformatory Ship, 475.
Cornwall, Richard Earl of, house
spoiled by insurgents, 378.
Cornwallis, Sir William, entertains.
James I. at Highgate, 350.

INDEX.

CORONATION,

7G5

Coronation stone of Anglo-Saxon
kings, 399.
Correggio, paintings by, 151, 465,
728 ; drawings by, 730.
Cort, Henry (1800), buried, 286.
Cosens, J., D.D. (Tears of Twick
enham), curate of Teddington,
604.
Cosway, Richard (1821), portrait
by, 362.
Cotes, Francis, R.A. (1770), por
trait by, 255.
Coton, Bp. William, held living,
217.
Cottenham, Earl of, seat, 303.
Cottenham, Christopher Pepys,
ist Earl, Lord Chancellor (185 1),
lived, 707 ; tomb, 626 ; memorial
window, 603.
Cottington, Francis Lord, im
provements at Hanworth, 314.
Cotton, Aid. J., M.P., residency
93, 607-
Cotton, B., residence, 98.
Cotton, Dr. Nathaniel (College
Insanorum), buried (1788), 540.
•Cotton, Robert, Groom of the
Chambers to Queen Mary; brass
503-
Coulsdon Court, 117.
Courage, E., residence, 552.
Court Hawe, 739.
Court Lodge, Fawkham, 215.
Court Lodge, Knockholt, 404.
Court Lodge, Southfleet, 559.
Court House, Banstead, 19.
Court House, Eltham, 171.
Coveney, John, residence, 597.
Coventry, Francis (Pompey the
Little, d. 1759), vicar, 163.
Coventry, Hon. Francis (1699),
mont, 440.
Coventry, Thomas Lord (1640),
Lord Keeper, portrait, 264.
Cowley, Abraham (1667), at St.
Anne's Hill, 14 ; house at Bam
Elms, 25 ; last days at Chertsey,
91 ; portrait, 408.
Cowley, J. C, residence. 6.
Cowley Hall, Cowley, 120.
Cowley House, Chertsey, 91.
Cowley House, Cowley, 120.
Cowper, Earls of, seat, 464.
Cowper family portraits, 465 ;
monts., 340.
Cowper, Lord Chancellor (1723),
portrait, 465.
Cowper, George Nassau, 3rd Earl
(1789), forms collection of pic
tures, 464 ; portrait, 465.
Cowper, Spencer (1729), mont. ,
34*-
Cowper, William (poet, 1800), at
St. Albans, 540.
Cox, H. E., residence, 421.
Cox, I. E. B., residence, 432.
Cox, Serjeant E. W., residence,
432.
Coxe, Edward, lived, 289.
Crab-tree Wood, 99.
Crabbe, George (1832), poet, at
Hampstead, 289.
Crack-nut Sunday, 401.

Craggs, James, the elder, Post
master-General (1721), tomb, 84.
Craggs, James. Secretary of State
(1721), at Twickenham, 638.
Cranach, Lucas, drawings by, 730.
Cranborne Lodge, 732.
Cranbrook House, 375.
Crane, Sir Francis, lived, 440;
portrait, 409.
Cranham Hall, 122.
Cranham Lodge, 122.
Cranham Place, 122.
Cranmer, Abp. (1556), tutor at
Waltham ; introduced to Henry
VIII., 652; at Windsor, 714;
portrait, 409.
Cranworth, Robert Monsey Rolfe
Lord (1868), lived, 387 ; mont,
387-
Craven Cottage, 223.
Crawshay, F., residence, 510.
Cray Hill, St. Paul's, 125
Craylands, 125.
Cribb, Tom (1848), champion ofthe
pugilistic ring, lived ; mont.,
740.
Cricklewood, 699.
Crimean Memorial, Woolwich,
75°-
Crisp, Samuel (1783), house and
mont., 95.
Crispe, Sir Nicholas (1666), house,
275 ; mont., 274.
Crocken Hall, 214.
Crockham Hill, 687.
Crofton Court, 460.
Croker, Hon. J. Wilson (1857),
lived, 224 ; seat ; tomb, 437.
Croker, Thomas Crofton (1854),
lived, 225, 687.
Crombie, Alex., LL.D., minister
at, 349-
Cromwell, Henry (1675), lived, 442.
Cromwell House, Highgate, 351.
Cromwell House, Mortlake, 442.
Cromwell, Jane (1637), mont, 458.
Cromwell, Mary (1713) and
Frances (1709), daughters of
Oliver Cromwell, buried, 106.
Cromwell, Oliver (1658), met at
Acton by Lord Mayor and Alder
men, 4 ; favours Eton College,
209 ; entertained at Fulham
Palace, 223 ; attempt to assassi
nate, 277 ; at Hampton Court,
301 ; at Putney, 476 ; at
Windsor, 730 ; portrait, 406.
Cromwell, Oliver, last male de
scendant of the Protector, died
1821, 95.
Cromwell, Richard (1712), lived ;
died, 94.
Cromwell, Thomas, Earl of Essex
(1540), birthplace, 477.
Crook, R. E., residence, 376.
Croquet Club, All England,
ground, 704.
Crosby, Aid. Brass (i77i)> mont.,
87-
Crosby, Aid- Sir John, builds
church tower (1520), 608.
Cross at Tottenham, 616.
Cross, Eleanor, 524, 656.

Cross Deep House, 638.
Cross, Holy, of Waltham, 651.
Crossland,W.H., building by, 649.
Grossman, J. H., residence, 98.
Crotch, Dr. William(i847), musical
composer, lived, 450.
Crouch End, 365.
Crouch Oak, 7.
Crouch Oak House, 7.
Crowley, Alderman Sir Ambrose
(Sir Humphrey Greenhat, d.
1713), mont., 436.
Croxley Green, 509.
Crystal Palace, 599.
Cubitt, G., M.P., residence, 153.
Culland's Grove, 560.
Cumberland, C. H., residence,
659-
Cumberland, Richard (son of the
dramatist, d. 1794), mont., 293.
Cumberland, William, Duke of
(1765), forms Virginia Water,
648 ; lived, 732.
Cumberland Lodge, 732.
Cunliffe, Edward, residence, 459.
Cunliffe, Roger, residence, 216.
Cunningham, A. B., residence,
360.
Cunningham, Peter (1869), lived,
525.
Cunobelin, King, gold mines, 81.
Cure, Capel, residence, 52.
Currie, Sir F., seat, 123.
Currier, J. P., residence, 207.
Curtis, Alderman Sir W. (1829)
lived, 560; buried, 670.
Curtis, W. Cotton, residence, 433.
Curzon, H., church by, 623.
Cuthbert, St., chapel and screen.
53°-
Cuyp, Albert, paintings by, 156,
157-
Cynewulf, King of West Saxons.
killed, 426.
Czernitshoff, Count, portrait, 726.

D'Abernon, Sir John, brass
(1277), 572.
Dacre, Lord, seat, 559.
Dacre, Trevor Roper Baron (1773),
buried, 416.
Dacres, Robert. Privy Councillor
to Henry VIII. (1543), mont, 94.
Dagenham Breach (in Thames
Wall, 1707), 133.
Dagnams, 513.
Dahl, Michael (1743), portraits
by, 255, 256, 311.
Daldy, E. M.. residence, 676.
Dallans, Ralph (1672), organ
builder, buried, 262.
Dallaway, Rev. James (1834),
mont., 415.
Dalling, Lord (1872), lived, 502.
Damer, Mrs. (Ann Seymour, d.
1828), at Strawberry Hill, 586 ;
at York House, 630 ; buried,
593 ; busts by, 593.
Dance, N., R.A. (Sir N. Dance
Holland, Bart, M.P., d. 1811),
portrait by, 255.
Dandies' Fete, 149.
Danes— at Blackheath, 46; at

766

INDEX.

DORCHESTER.

Brentford, 55 ; fleet, 141 ; army
at Greenwich, 248, 249 ; tradi
tional defeat at Gatton, 228 ;
defeated at Merton, 426 ; for
tress on the Lea, 671.
Daniell, E. T., residence, 43.
Daniel, Wm., R.A. ( 1837), paint
ing by, 151.
Danson Park, 682.
D'Antraugues, Count and Coun
tess of, murdered, 27.
Darbishire, H. A., model village
by, 353-
D'Arblay, Madame. See Burney,
Fanny.
Darcy, Sir Francis (1625), and
wife, mont., 381.
Darent Holme, 556.
Darenth Wood, 134.
Darley. J., residence, 575.
Darnley, Earl of (1567), portrait,
310.
Darrell, Sir Lionel, lived, 499.
Darwin, Charles R., residence,
i54-
Dashwood, Maitland, residence,
45.
Daukes, S. W., building by, 115.
D'Aumale, Due and Duchesse, at
Twickenham, 630 ; portraits,
587.
David IL, King of Scotland (1370),
prisoner at Hertford, 339 ; at
Windsor, 712.
Davidson, Henry (1827), mont.,
by Ternough, 400.
Davidson, portrait by, 256.
Davidson, M. S., residence, 431.
Davies, J. S-, residence, 549.
Davis, A., residence, 83.
Davy, Sir Humphrey (1829), at
Denham Place, 140.
Dawe, George, R.A. (1829), por
trait by, 207.
Dawes, Sir Abraham, founds alms
houses at Putney, 477.
Dawley Court, 358.
Dawley Farm, 139.
Dawson, H., building by, 679.
Dawson, J., residence, 4.
Dawson, Nancy, lived, 290.
Day, John (1622), minister at
Pinner, mont., 470.
Day, R. Branton, residence, 547.
Day, Thomas (1789), author of
Sandford and Merton, lived, 8,
291. 570-
Deacon, Albert, residence, 374.
Deacon, W., residence, 113.
Deane, F. H., residence, 515.
Debenham, F. G., residence, 95.
Decker, Sir Matthew (1749). seat >
entertains George II., 502;
mont, 503.
Dee.Dr. John (i6o8),the astrologer,
lived; visited by Queen Eliza
beth ; mob break into house and
destroy instruments and books,
441; his black-stone, 441; buried,
440.
Deepdene, 150.
Defoe, ¦ Daniel (1731), at Putney,
479 ; pantile factory, 613 ; founds

Independent chapel at Tooting,
615.
Deheers, portrait by, 407.
Delaford, 384.
De la Mare, Abbot Thomas (1396),
splendid brass of, 534.
Delany, Mrs. Mary (1788), lived,
231 ; makes grotto, 450.
De la Rue, Warren, residence and
observatory, 121.
Delia Robbia, terra-cotta busts
attributed to, 304.
Delrow, 10.
Denbies, 153.
Denham Court, 140.
Denham Mount, 140.
Denham Place, 140.
Denham, Sir John (father of the
poet, d. 1638), house, 117, 167 ;
mont., 166.
Denham, Sir John (1668), poet, at
Cooper's Hill, 116; architect of
Greenwich Palace, 251 : of
Windsor Castle, 715.
Denholm Lodge, 555.
Denison, Lady, residence, 550.
Denner, portrait by, 409.
Denny, Sir Anthony (1550), mont.,
654.
Denny, Sir Edward, created Baron
of Waltham, afterwards Earl of
Norwich, 652.
Derby, The, race at Epsom, its
origin and character, 199.
Derby, Alice Spencer, Dowager
Countess of (1637), entertains
Queen Elizabeth at Harefield,
315 ; Milton writes Arcades for,
316 ; monument, 316.
Derby, Edward, nth Earl of,
purchases the Oaks ; entertain
ments, 738.
Derby, Earl and Countess of, por
trait, 264.
Derham, William, D.D. (1735).
rector 46 years ; wrote Astro
and Physico Theology ; died ;
buried, without mont., 644.
Derick, portrait by, 310.
Dermody, Thomas, poet, died
1802, 599 ; buried, 417.
Derwentwater, James RadclifFe,
3rd Earl of (1716), portrait and
relics, 362.
Derwentwater, Lady, resided at
husband's execution, 4.
Desmond, George, Earl of, lived,
461.
Desenfans, Noel (1807), collection
of pictures, 156 ; mausoleum,
156.
Devaux, Sir Francis, F.R.S.
(1694), mont., 381.
Devis, A. W., R.A. (1822), paint
ing by, 256.
Devonshire, Christian Countess of,
her residence at Roehampton,
5"- .
Devonshire, Georgiana Duchess
of, lived, 502.
Devonshire Cottage, 501.
De Vos, painting by, 406.
D'Ewes, Geerard, mont. erected

by his grandson, Sir Symonds
D'Ewes, 643.
Dewey, E., residence, 43.
Diamond, Dr. Hugh M-, resi
dence, 630.
Dick, W. W. F., residence, 14Q.
Dickens, Charles, (1870) at Twick
enham, 639.
Dickenson, W., residence, 603.
Dickinson, C. A., residence, 460.
Dickinson, J., residence, 3.
Dickinson, L., portraits by, 587,
588.
Digby, Sir Kenelm(i66s), portrait,
407, 725. _
Digby, Lady Venetia (1633), por

trait, 725.
Dilkes, Re:

ear-Admiral Sir Thomas
(1707), portrait, 255.
Dimsdale, Baron, seat, 207.
Dimsdale, Baroness, residence,
707.
Disraeli, Isaac (1848), lived, 185.
Disraeli, Benjamin, wrote Comngs-
by at, 152.
Disney, Admiral Sir Moore, lived,
288.
Ditchleys, 682.
Ditton House, 149,
Ditton Marsh, 149.
Ditton Park, 576
Dixon, Nicolas, founder of Ches
hunt church and Baron of the
Exchequer (1448), rector, 94.
Dobson, C, residence, 43.
Dobson, Wm. (1647), paintings by,
177, 407, 408; of himself and wife.
309-
Docks, Great Western, 58 ; Vic
toria, 472.
Dockyards, Royal, Deptford, 141 ;
Woolwich, 740.
Dodd, Rev. William, D.D., exe
cuted for forgery, 1777, arrested
at, 694 ; buried, 120.
Dodderidge, Judge, died (1628),
167.
Doddridge, Philip, D.D. (1751),
educated, 525.
Dodington, George Bubb. See
Melcombe, Lord. •
Dogget, Thomas (coat and badge),
buried (1721), 171.
Dogs' Cemetery, at Cassiobury,
77 ; at Oatlands, 691.
Dolce, Carlo, paintings by, 157,
465, 728.
Dole Day observed, 423.
Dollis Hill, 699.
Dolman, T. F., churches by, 642,
658.
Domenichino, paintings by, 408,
727 ; drawings by, 730.
Domesday spelling, 739, note.
Donne, John, poet (i63i),lived,436.
Donnie, T. C., residence, 687.
Donnithorne, E. H., residence,
639-
Doods, Great, 486.
Dorchester, Catherine Sedley
Countess of, mistress of James 1 1. ,
at Ham House, Weybridge, 691;
d. 1717 ; mont, 692.

INDEX.

767

DORCHESTER.

Dorchester House, Highgate, 349;
Ladies' Hospital at, 350.
Dorman's Well, 559.
Dorset, Earls of, seat, 404.
Dorset, Pembroke, and Mont
gomery, Anne Countess of
(1675), portrait, 407.
Dorset, Charles, 6th Earl of
(1706), portrait, 407.
Dorset, Edward, 4th Earl of
(1652), portrait, 407.
Dorset, John Frederick, 3rd Duke
of (1799), portrait, 407.
Dorset, Mary Countess of, portrait,
725.
Dorset, Richard, 3rd Earl of
(1624), portrait, 407.
Dorset. Robert, 2nd Earl of
(1609), portrait, 407.
Dorset, Thomas Sackville, ist Earl
of (1608), portrait, 406, 407.
Dossi, Dosso, painting by, 307.
Douglas, Lady Frances C. (1827),
mont., 468.
Douglas, General, buried, 389.
Douglas House, 470.
Douglas, J., residence, 117.
Dover House, 511.
Doves, The, Hammersmith, 274.
Dow, Gerard, painting by, 156.
Down Court, 154.
Downe House, 500.
Downe, Visct, family mont., 53.
Downe, Viscountess, residence,
Downshire House, 511.
Downshire, Marchioness of, re
sided, 511.
D'Oyley, Christopher (1795),
mont., 660.
Drabble, R. R., residence, 593.
Drainage, Metropolitan, Works,
161, 202.
Drake, Admiral Sir Francis (1596),
portrait, 255.
Drake, Richard, equerry to Queen
Elizabeth (1603), mont., 204.
Drake, William (1801). antiquary,
vicar of Isleworth, 381.
Drapers' Company College ; Fe
male Orphan Asylum ; Alms
houses, 625.
Drawings by the Great Masters,
the Royal Collection, 729.
Drayson, G., residence, 60.
Drayton, Michael, poet (1631),
portrait, 155.
Drayton Hall, 154.
Drayton House, 154.
Drew, R. W. , church by, 590.
Druid, last ship launched from
Deptford Dockyard, 141.
Drummond, Andrew, purchased
Belmont, 565.
Drummond, Edward, shot by mis
take for Sir Robert Peel, 1843 ;
tomb, 84.
Drummond, G. H., collection of
English portraits, 565.
Drummond, Lady, residence, 140.
Drummond, S., A.R.A., painting
by, 256.
Dryden, at Denham Court, 140 ;

portrait and story of, at Knole,
408.
Dubois, — , painting by, 408.
Dubufe, M., portrait by, 588.
Duck, Stephen(i756), * the Poetical
Thresher,' rector of Byfleet,
70 ; at Kew, 390 ; librarian at
Merlin's Cave, 494.
Dudbrook House, 445.
Dudley and Ward, Visct., resided,
605.
Dudley, Robert, Earl of Leicester
(15S8), married to Amy Robsart,
490.
Duels on Putney Heath, 478 ;
Wimbledon Common, 705.
Dufferin, Lord, resided, 354.
Dugdale, John (1670), mont., 709.
Dulwich College, 155 ; Picture
Gallery, 156 ; new schools, 157.
Duntop, R. H. W., residence, 516.
Dunmore, Alex. Edward Murray,
6th Earl of (1845), cenotaph, 590.
Dunraven, Lord, seat, 116.
Dunsdale, 687.
Dunstall Priory, 556.
Dunster, T., residence, 700.
Dunton, John (1733). ' Life and
Errors,' lived, 226.
Dupont, Gainsborough (1797), por
trait by, 726.
Duppa, Bp. (1662), residence and
death, 504.
Duppa, Richard (Life of Michel
Angelo, d. 1831), mont., 415.
Duppa's Hill, 132.
Durant, Miss, sculpture by, 720,
721.
Durant, R., residence, 553.
Durants, 181.
Durdans, 199.
Diirer, Albert, carvings after, 229 ;
portrait of his father, 602 ; draw
ings by, 730.
Durfey, Tom (1723), at Knole, 409.
Durham, J. , A. R. A. , sculpture by,
486, 709.
Durham, John George Lambton,
ist Earl of (1840), lived, 707.
Durolituni, Roman station, 93.
Dusart, C, painting by, 156.
Dutch Fleet in Thames, 612.
D wight, John, M.A. (inventor
of English porce!ain),established
pottery works (1671), 227.
Dyke, F. H., residence, 16.
Dyke, Sir W. Hart, Bart, M.P.,
seat of, 423.
Dyrham Park, 435.
Dysart, ' Old ' Countess of, died
(1840) at Ham House, 271.
Dysart, Earl of, seat, 270.
Dysart, William Murray Earl of,
portrait, 272.
Dyson, Jeremiah, lived, 233, 282,
431, 634.
Ealing Grove, 160.
Ealing School, distinguished pu
pils, 160.
Eardley, Sampson Gideon, Lord,
erects Belvedere in 1764, 41.
Earthworks, British and Roman,

11, 12, 14, 17, 67, 118, 119, 137,
191, 229, 231, 232, 410, 418, 544,
659. 734-
Easney Park, 568.
East Combe, 50.
East End House, 226.
East India Military College, 6.
East Lodge, 188.
Eastbury House, Barking, and tra
dition ofthe Gunpowder Plot, 23-
Eastbury Lodge, 514.
Eastcott, 515.
Eastcott House, 516.
Easter Hunt, 64, 194, 343.
Easter Sepulchres, 97 ; bequest
for, 569, 698.
Eastley End, 610.
Eastwick Park, 53.
Eastwood, J. F., residence, 207.
Eastwood, W. B., residence, 117.
Eaton, H. W., residence, 553.
Ebmy, Lord, seat, 506.
Ecclesfield, 15.
Eclipse, racehorse, buried, 74.
Eden, Sir F. Morton (State ofthe
Poor, d. 1809), buried, 159.
Eden Park, 36 ; Gibbon's visits ;
Lord Auckland at, 36.
Edinburgh, Duke and Duchess of,
at Gravesend, 238.
Edgcombe Hall, 707.
Edmonds, C, church by, 112.
Edmund, St. and Martyr, chantry
dedicated to, 136 ; church of,
247.
Edmund Ironsides defeats Canute,
462.
Edmund de Langley, son of
Edward III. (1403), born, 396;
mont., 397.
Edridge, Henry, A.R.A., F.S.A.
(1821), mont., 68.
Edward the Confessor, the pilgrim
and the ring, legend of, 331;
banishes the nightingales, 332 ;
has house at Windsor, 734.
Edward I. at Greenwich, 249 ; at
Sheen, 489; at Windsor, 711;
corpse rested in Waltham Abbey
church, 652.
Edward II., son born, 169; at
Havering, 332 ; at Windsor, 711.
Edward III. born at Windsor
Castle, 711; entertained captive
King of France, 169; founds
Order of the Garter ; splendid
entertainments at Windsor, 712 ;
holds John King of France and
David King of Scotland prison
ers, 712 ; builds Round Tower,
and makes great additions to
Windsor Castle, 712 ; death at
Richmond, 489.
Edward IV. met at Blackheath, 47;
held tournament, 136 ; founded
Augustinian nunnery, 136: treat
ment of Eton College, 209 ; at
Havering, 332 ; at Windsor ;
founds College of St. George,
and builds St. George's Chapel,
713 ; buried, 713 ; tomb, 719.
Edward V. met at Hornsey Park
and brought into London, 363.

768

INDEX.

FARNBOROUGH.

Edward VI. born, 298 ; visits
Deptford, 142 ; at Enfield, 174;
rebuilds Enfield Palace, 175 ;
keeps Christmas, 250 ; at Hamp
ton Court, 299 ; at Hatfield, 327 ;
at Havering, 332 ; at Hertford,
. on accession to the throne, 339 ;
at Richmond, 490 ; at Oatlands,
688; at Windsor, 714; died,
250.
Edwards, George, F.R.S., friend
of- Linnaeus (1773), tomb, 684.
Edwards, R., residence, 343.
Edwards, Thos. (Canons of Criti
cism, d. 1757), lived, 159; died,
226.
Eel-Pie Island, 642.
Effingham, Chas. Howard, Earl
of (1624), lived, 484 ; buried,
485-
Egerton, LordKeeper(i6i7),house,
3i5-
Egerton, Dr. John, Bp. of Nor
wich (1787), lived, 160.
Egerton, Capt. the Hon. Francis,
seat, 113.
Egerton House, 502.
Egmont, Earl of, residence, 19 ;
manor, 148.
Egmont Lodge, 223.
Egwin the Sacrist, legend of, 520.
Eldebury Hill (earthwork), 14.
Eldon, Earl of, seat, 554.
Eleanor, Queen, lived, 333 ;
Crosses, 524, 656.
Eley, H., residence, 431.
Eliot, E. Eliot, residence, 411.
Elizabeth, Queen, born at Green
wich, 250 ; at Beddington, 38 ;
at Chiswick, 105 ; at Colnbrook,
114 : at Croydon, 130 ; at Dept
ford, 142 ; at Saye's Court, 144 ;
at Eltham, 170; Enfield Chase,
173; Fulham, 223; Hampton
¦Court, 299, 300 ; Hanworth, 313 ;
Harefield, 315 ; Havering, 332 ;
Hertford, 339 ; Hunsdon, 373 ;
Kew, 389 ; Loughton Hall, 42* ;
Mitcham, 436 ; Nonsuch, 446 ;
Orpington, 460; Osterley House,
461 ; Putney, 476 ; Richmond
(where she died, 1602), 490 ; Sir
Ralph Bosville's, 510; Gidea
Hall, 513 ; Shooter's Hill, 555 ;
Theobalds, 605 ; Tilbury Fort,
614; Tottenham, 618; Wanstead,
€67 ; Oatlands (her bow-shot),
688 ; Wimbledon House, 701;
Windsor ; translates Boethms ;
constructs North Terrace and
Gallery, 714 ; prisoner at Hat
field ; holds first privy council ;
escort to London, 327 ; goes a-
Maying, 417; at Woolwich Dock
yard, 741; her Forest Lodge,
100; oak, 7, 326, 331; Portraits
of, 211, 235, 263, 299, 309, 310,
330, 406.
Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia,
portrait, 264.
Elizabeth Woodville, Queen of
Edward IV., granted manor of
Richmond, 489 ; buried 713, 719.

Ellesmere, Countess Dowager of,
seat, 662.
Ellesmere, Francis Egerton Earl
of (1857), lived, 691.
Ellerker House, 500.
Ellerker, Hon. Mrs., lived, 500.
Elley, Lieut. -Gen., M.P. (1839),
mont., 720.
Ellice, Mrs. residence, 341.
Ellis, Sir Henry (1868), lived, 503.
Ellis, Mrs. (d. 1872, Women of
England), lived, 358.
Ellis, Wm., missionary to Mada
gascar (1872), house ; died, 359.
Elm Grove, 160.
Elm trees, large, 177, 266, 333.
Elmer House, 216.
Elmers, 37.
Elmhurst, 556.
Elms, The, Epsom, 199 ; Ham,
270 ; Stanmore, 565.
Elmshurst, 737.
Elmsley House, 707.
Elphinstone, H. W. , residence,
707.
Elphinstone, John, 13th Baron of,
(i860), mont., 420.
Elstree, 455.
Elsynge Hall, 177.
Elwood, Thos. (1713), Milton's
Quaker friend, buried, 83.
Ely, Bishops of, residence, 327.
Elyot, Robert (1609) and family,
monts., 485.
Ember Court, 149.
Emlyn, Henry, F.S.A. (1815),
mont., 720.
Empson, Prof. W. (1853), buried,
12.
Enfield Court, 185.
English, Rev. J. F., LL.D.,
residence, 676.
Epitaphs, curious, 419, 472, 473.
Erasmus portraits, 310, 727.
Erebus and Terror, sailed from
Greenhithe (1845), 246.
Erkenwald, St., founds Barking
Abbey, 20 ; founder and first
Abbot of Chertsey Abbey, 88.
Erskine House, 288.
Erskine, Thos. Lord (1823), resi
dence of, 288 ; mont. to his wife,
289.
Esher House, 207.
Esher Lodge, 207.
Esher Place, 205.
Essendon Place, 207.
Essex County Lunatic Asylum, 60.
Essex, Arthur Algernon Earl of,
seat, 75.
Essex, Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl
of (1601), portrait, 235 ; inter
view with Queen Elizabeth at
Nonsuch, 447.
Essex, Robert Devereux, 3rd Earl
of, Pari, genl., d.1646, at Eltham
Palace, 170.
Etheridge, W., bridge by, 662.
Etloe House, 419.
Eugenie, Empress, residence, 103.
Evans, Mrs. B., residence, 703.
Evans, John, F.R.S., F.S.A.,
residence, 3.

Evans, portrait by, 255.
Evelina (Fanny Burney) at Hamp
stead), 282.
Evelyn, Sir John, seat, 232; mont.,
232.
Evelyn, John (1706), property at
Deptford, 141 ; married, 144 ;
settles at Sayes Court, and im
provements there, 143 ; visits
Ashtead, 17 ; Beddington, 38 ;
Byfleet, 70 ; Cassiobury, 76 ;
Chiswick, 106 ; Godstone, 232 ;
Greenwich, 251; Kew, 389; Non
such, 448 ; Wanstead, 668.
Evelyn, Richard of Woodcote,
mont. (1669), 196.
Evelyns,of Huntercombes, monts.,
65.
Evesham, J. Lord Somers, Baron
of, lived and died (1716), 433.
Ewell Castle, 213.
Ewell Grove, 213.
Ewin,W. H., LL.D. (1804), mont.,
57-
Eyot, or Ait, lowest on Thames,
105 ; osier beds and haunts of
swans, 105.
Eyre, Governor, buried, 389.
Fabell, Peter (Merry Devill of
Edmonton), buried, 165.
Faber, C. W., residence, 449.
Fabyan, Robert (1512), chronicler,
lived, 609.
Fair Kytes, 361.
Fairey Hill, 442.
Fairfax, General (1671), head
quarters of, 275, 378, 399, 476.
Fairlawn, Acton, 5.
Fairlawn House, 739.
Fairlop Oak and Fair, 24.
Fairmead Lodge, 343.
Fairmile, 207.
Fairs, noted : Fairlop, 24 ; Barnet,
28; Bookham, 53; Horn, 85;
Black cherry, and goose and
onion, Chertsey, 89 ; Croydon,
128 ; Beggars' Bush, 708.
Fairseat House, 352.
Falkland, Henry Cary Lord, killed
at Theobalds (1633), 607.
Fan Court, 8.
Fan Grove, 92.
Fanning, Major, residence, 596.
Fanshawe, Admiral E. G., resi
dence, 10.
Fanshawe, Sir Henry, gardens at
Ware Park, 673.
Fanshawe, Lady (1679), lived, 31 ;
daughter Elizabeth buried, 123.
Fanshawe, Sir Richard (1666), re
tired to Bengeo, '42; mont,
64.
Faraday, Michael, residence at
Hampton Court; died there
(1867), 303 ; grave, 349.
Farmer, Capt.W. R. G., residence,
448.
Farnaby, Thomas, editor of Greek
and. Roman authors (1647),
buried, 548.
Farnborough, Charles Lord (d.
1838), and wife, mont., 755.

INDEX.

rARQUHAK.

769

FROIHSHER.

Farquhar, Walter Rockliff. resi
deuce, $3.
Fauconbndge, Mary Countess of
(daughter of Oliver Cromwell),
buried (17x3), 106.
Fawcett.W. (1631), mont, and that
of wife ana her second husband,
684.
Fawke House, 548.
Fawkener, Sir Everard, lived, 664.
Fearon, James, actor(i787),buried,
504.
Felbndge, 233.
Fellows, Sir John (1724)1 mont.,
75-
Female Orphan Asylum, Bedding
ton, 39.
Fenner, Sir Edward, Judge of
King's Bench (1611), mont.,
335*
Fenton, Elijah, poet (1730), usher
and schoolmaster, 549.
Fenton, Lavinia, Duchess of Bol
ton, buried (1760), 262.
Ferns, The, 593.
Ferrers, Alice, country seat, 277.
Ferrers, Selina Countess Dowager
(1762), tomb, 641.
Ferrey, B., F.S.A., churches and
mansions by, 49, 60, 102, 130,
148, 150, 204, 208, 231, 357, 388,
4°3> 51 '» 644-
Fetcham Lodge, 216.
Fetcham Park, 216.
Feti, D., painting by, 307.
Field End House, 515.
Field, F. W., residence, 431.
Field, Joshua, residence, 270.
Field, Nathaniel (actor and poet,
d. 1641), portrait, 155.
Fielden, Joshua, M.P., residence,
455-
Fielding, Henry, novelist (1754)*
lived, Fordhook, Acton, 4, 159 ;
Barnes Common, 28 ; Twicken
ham, 639.
Fielding, LadyDiana (1723), mont.,
Fifield, 8.
Finnis, Aid. T. Q. , residence, 670.
Finsbury Park, 364 ; absurdity of
the name, 365.
Fire-bell Gate, Barking Abbey, 21.
Firestone, Surrey, 425.
Firmin, Thomas, philanthropist
(1697), obelisk to, 233.
Firs, The, 28g.
Fischer, T. H., residence, 659.
Fisher, the composer, portrait,
3°9-
Fisheries : Broxbourne, 64; Chert-
sey,g2; Dagenham,i33; Datchet,
138 ; Denham, 140 ; Ditton, 148 ;
Thorney Broad, 154 ; Elstree,
168 ; Halliford, 268 ; Hampton,
295 ; Kingsbury, 395 ; Laleham,
410 ; Putney, 476 ; Rye House,
518; Shepperton, 553; Staines,
562 ; Sunbury, 590 ; Twicken
ham Deep, 642 ; Walton Sale,
662.
Fishmongers' Almshouses, St.
Peter's Hospital, 666.

Fishmongers' and Poulterers'
Asylum, 635.
Fitzherbert, Mrs. Maria Anna
(1837), lived, 85, 159, 226; at
Richmond, 499; at Twicken
ham, 633.
Fitzwilliam, Richard, 7th Visct,
founder of Fitzwilliam Museum,
Cambridge (1816), lived, 502 ;
mont, 503.
Fitzwilliam, Sir W. (1570), and
wife, brass, 608.
Flagstaff at Kew, finest spar in
Europe, 304.
Flambard, Sir John (end of 14th
cent.), mont., 321.
Flamsteed, John(i7i9), first Astro
nomer Royal, 259.
Flanchford, 486.
Flask, The Upper, Hampstead,
assemblies; meetings of Kit-Cat
Club, 282 ; afterwards residence
of George Steevens, 283.
Flatman, Thomas (1688), portrait
of, by himself, 408.
Flaxman, John (1826), sculpture
by, 36» S6> 57. 9°> 129. i5x» 167,
196, 204, 337, 417, 503, 575, 590 ;
plate by, 728.
Flecknoe, Richard (1678), on
Merstham inns, 424.
Fleet marriages at Hampstead,
281.
Fleet river rises, 71.
Fleetwood, Thomas, Lord of the
Vache (1570), mont., 82.
Fletcher, Bp. (father of the poet,
d. 1596), at Fulham, 223.
Fletcher, Sir Henry (1807), mont,
660.
Fletcher, John, poet (1625), por
trait, 264.
Fletcher, Philip, Dean of Kildare,
buried (1765), 467.
Flete Pool, 609.
Flitcroft, H., archt (1769), build
ings by, 285, 333 ; mont, 604.
Flono, John (1625), lived, 226.
Fludyer, Aid. Sir Samuel (1768),
tomb, 416.
Foley, Lady, seat, 113. .
Foot, Sir Thomas, Lord Mayor
(1688), mont., 684.
Football at Kingston, 401.
Foote, Samuel (1777), lived, 450.
Foots Cray Place, 124.
Forbes, J. S., residence, 6g6.
Forbes, Admiral John (1796), por
trait, 256 ; mont., 679.
Forbes, Lady Mary (1782), mont,
679-
Ford, Edward, residence, 175.
Ford, J., residence, 353.
Ford Place, 571.
Fordhook, 4, 159.
Forest of Essex, the Great, 191,
267, 651.
Forest of Middlesex, 562.
Forest of Windsor, 733.
Forest Gate, 685.
Forest House, 98.
Forest Lodge, 388.
Forest School, 658.

Forest, submerged, 202.
Forrest HiU, 459.
Forster, Samuel, residence, 418.
Forster, Sir Thomas (1612), mont,
Fortis Green, 365.
Forts on the Thames, 612. .
Forty Hall, 177.
Foscolo, TJgo (1827), buried, 107 ;
remains removed to Italy ; mont.
by Marochetti, erected by Italian
Government, 108. •
Fosse, ancient, of Verulam, 542.
Fossil remains, 85, 123, 202, 244,
356, 385-
Foster, Chief Justice Sir Michael
(1763), born ; lived, 619.
Foster, Chief Justice Sir Robert
(1663), lived, 167.
Fosters, 167.
Fothergill, John, M.D. (1780),
buriejl, 707.
Fowler, Edward, Bp. of Gloucester
(1714), mont., 337.
Fowler, J., church by, 385.
Fowler, R., residence, 470.
Fox, Charles James (1806), lived,
13, 88, 706 ; death, no ; mont. at
Chertsey, 91; bust, 362.
Fox, Gurney, residence, 455.
Fox, Sir Stephen, house at Chis
wick, 106 ; buried (1716), 106.
Foxe, John (1587), the martyr-
ologist, wrote ' Acts and Monu
ments,' 654.
Francia, painting by,. 309.
Francis I. of Austria, portrait,
726.
Francis I. of France, portrait, 310.
Francis IL, portrait, 310.
Francis, Messrs., churches by, 4,
663.
Francis, Sir Philip (1818), mont.,
440.
Francis, S. R. G., residence, 122.
Francis, T. , church by, 92.
Francklyn, Sir John (1647), mont.,
698.
Franklin, Sir John (1847), sailed in
the Erebus, 246.
Franks, 368.
Fraser, Col., residence, 189.
Frederick, Elector Palatine, at
Gravesendj 237.
Frederick, Sir John, lived, 662.
Freeling, Sir Francis (1836), lived,
288.
Freeman, Charles, residence, 213.
Freemasons' Benevolent Institu
tion, 131.
Freemasons' Female Orphan Asy
lum, 666.
Freemasons' Institution for Boys,
625.
Frenches, 486.
Frere, Sir Bartle, residence, 707.
Freshfield, Charles, residence,
229.
Friday Hill, 99-
Frith Manor House, 431.
Frith Park, 659.
Frobisher, Martin (1594). portrait,
49

770

INDEX.

GILWELL park.

Frognal, Chiselhurst, 105.
Frognal Hall, Hampstead, 288 ;
House, 288 ; Lodge, 288 ; Priory.
288.
Frognal, Upper, 288.
Frowyk, Thomas, lived ; founded
chantry; mont., 435.
Fry, EHzabeth(i845), summer resi
dence, 134 ; lived, and received
visit from King of Prussia, 162,
684.
Fry, Joseph, residence, 361.
Fryth, John (1533), colleague of
Tyndale and teacher of Cranmer,
born, 686.
Fuller, Francis, Clerk of the Es
treats (1636), mont., 22.
Fuller, Thomas (Worthies, d.
1661), rector (1658— 1661), and
mont, 121 ; curate ; wrote
* Church History' and * History
of Waltham Abbey,' 654.
Fuller, Dr. William, Bp. of Lin
coln, kept school, 631.
Fuller's Almshouses, 625.
Fuller's-earth pits, 454.
Furnace, the Great, at Woolwich,
746.
Fuseli, Henry, R.A. (1825), died,
•478.
Fychte, Major-Gen. , residence,
333-
Gabriel, Aid. Sir Thos., Bart.,
residence, 707.
Gad's Hill, 243.
Gadbrook House, 43.
Gaddesden, G., residence, 474.
Gadsden, A. W.. residence, 213.
Gainsborough, Thomas (1788), por
traits by, 96, 156, 17S, 256, 265,
309, 408, 728 ; buried, 388.
Gale, Samuel, antiquary, died
(1754), 287. t
Galton, Captain D., building by,
556-
Gambier, Admiral Lord (1833),
lived, 384.
Gardiner, Col. T. G., residence,
638.
Gardnar, Robartt (1571), brass, 415.
Garofalo, painting by, 408.
Garrard, Mark (1635), portraits by,
263, 330.
Garrard, Mrs., residenoe, 470.
Garrett, 666.
Garrett, Mayor of, mock election,
666.
Garrick, David (1779), epitaph on
Hogarth, 107 ; lived, 294 ; held
manor of Hendon, 337 ; portrait,
409.
arrick, Mrs. (1822), widowhood,
294.
Garrick Villa, 294.
Garter, Mine Host ofthe, 710.
Garter, Chapter of the, held at an
inn, 57.
Garter, Order ofthe, founded, 712.
Garth, Sir Samuel, buried (1719),
322.
Garth, Sir Richard, Q.C, resi
dence, 438.

Garvetts, The, seat of the Brod
rick family, 666
Gate House, St. Albans_ Abbey,
only relic of the monastic build-
¦ ings, 538.
Gatton House, 228.
Gatton, Upper, 229.
Gaussen, R. W., residence, 433.
Gay, John, poet (1732), at Ham,
269, 273 ; at Hampstead, 290 ;
portrait, 409.
Gaynes Park, 609.
Gedeney, Aid. John (1449), re
unites manors of Tottenham, 617.
Gee, Sir Orlando (1705), monu
mental bust of, 381.
Gell, Admiral John (1806), portrait
of, 256.
Gellibrand, W. C, seat, 8.
Gentileschi, Artemisia (1642), por
trait by herself, 308.
Gentileschi, Orazio (1647), paints
ceilings of Greenwich Palace,
251 ; employed by Charles I. ;
picture by, 308.
Genz, F. Von (1832), portrait, 309.
Geology of Thames Valley, 244.
George Prince of Denmark at
Epsom Spa, 197 ; portraits of,
255, 311 ; statue, 716.
George I . partiality for Brentford,
56 ; at Gravesend, 238 ; at Hamp
ton Court, 302 , equestrian
statue at Canons ; removed to
Leicester Square, 73 ; portraits,
235, 261, 726.
George II. at Hampton Court,
303 ; at Richmond, 494 ; por
traits, 725, 726, 728.
George III.: Obelisk, 83; last
meeting with Lord Bute, 159 ;
visits at Bulstrode, 231 ; with
Queen Charlotte at Hatfield,
328 ; at Thorndon Hall, 362 ; at
Hounslow, 370 ; at Kew, 389,
406 ; turned Richmond Old Park
into grazing farm, 494 ; walks
through Herschel's great tele
scope, 558 ;*at Sydenham Wells,
598 ; reviews volunteers at War-
ley, 676 ; at Wimbledon, 705 ;
at Windsor, 716; at Windsor
Theatre, 709 ; on the Eastern
Terrace on Sunday afternoons,
716 ; collection of drawings, 729 ;
portraits, 309, 406, 725, 726 ;
equestrian statue, 732 ; burial-
place, 718, 721.
George IV. transfers portraits of
Admirals from Hampton to
Greenwich, 255 ; when Prince
Regent, meets Louis XVIII. at
Bentley Priory, 564 ; entertains
Allied Sovereigns at Oatlands,
689: at Virginia Water, 648;
at Windsor ; renovates the Cas
tle ; epigram on the King and
his architect, 716 ; portraits,
408, 726, 728 ; statue, 726 ;
seclusion, 732; death, 728;
grave, 718.
George's Chapel, St., described,
718 ; hours of admission, 720.

George, Sir Thos., Garter King-
at-Arms (1703), tomb, 736.
Gerbier,_ Sir Balthasar (1667X
portrait, 727.
Germanus, conference with Pela
gians, 519.
Gervase of Tilbury (time of
Henry II. and John), birthplace,
612.
Ghost at Cranford House, 121.
GiambeUi, Federico, repairs and
rebuilds forts at Tilbury (1588),
612.
Gibbets on Hounslow Heath, 37L
Gibbon, Edmund, historian (1794),
born, 477 ; at school, 402 ; at
Beckenham, 36.
Gibbons, Grinling (1721), carvings
by, 73. 74. 77» 221. 305. 3<>7. 37^,
602, 707, 724, 725.
Gibbons, Sir John, seat, 570.
Gibbs, H., residence, 10.
Gibbs, Sir Vicary (1820), Chief
Baron ofthe Exchequer, mont.,
334-
Gibbs, W. A., residence, 549.
Gibson, Bp. (1745), mont, 221;
portrait, 222.
Gibson, Edward and Richard
(painters), 504.
Gibson, James(i777),tomb, curious
annual custom at, 594.
Gibson, J., residence, 43.
Gibson, William, highwayman,
captured at Combe Wood and
hanged (1755), 116.
Gidea Hall, Queen Elizabeth at ;
Mary de' Medici at ; old house
pulled down and present Gidea
Hall built, 513.
Gifford, Capt. J. W. J., residence,
34i-
Gifford John (1818), biographer of
Pitt, mont., 61.
Gifford, Rev. Richard (Vicissi
tude, 1807), rector of, 456.
Gifford, William, editor of Quar
terly Review (1826), lived, 707. (
Gigg's Hill, 149. .
Gilbert, Earl Marshal, killed at a
tournament (1241), 338,
Gilbert, Josiah, residence, 459.
Giles, J., church by, 453.
Giles and Angeli, building by
579-
Giles and Bevan, building by, 78.
Giles, J. S., residence, 509.
Gill, R., residence, 15.
Gill, Westley, sculpture by, 2.
Gillies, Dr. John (Hist, of Greece,
d. 1836), mont., 112.
Gillman, James (friend of Cole
ridge), house ; Coleridge at ;
Gill s Hill, scene of murder of Mr.
Weare, 480.
Gilpin, Sawrey, painting by, 429.
Gilpin, John, at Edmonton, 165.
Gilpin, Rev. W. (Forest Scenery,
d. 1804), master of Cheam School,
87.
Gilston Park, 466.
Gilwell Park, 549,

INDEX.

771

GUN FACTORY.

Gipsies, haunts of, 453, 670.
Glacial drifts of North Middlesex,
2 18, 442.
Gladmore Heath, 30, 266.
Gladstone Ministry, portraits of,
588.
Gladstone, William, portrait,
587.
Glascocke, Sir William (1688),
mont , 397.
Glass, J. W., painting by, 152.
Glass, painted (old), 16, 64, 88,
101, 245, 248, 384, 396, 404,
411, 414, 427. 452, 455, 456,
467, 470, 622, 697.
Gledsmuir House, 267.
Gleig, James, residence, 565.
Glenn Chess, 509.
Glory, The, Deepdene, 152.
Glossop, F. H., residence, 382.
Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of,
mont, 532, 534.
Gloucester, Duchess of, niece of
Robert Walpole, portrait, 587.
Gloucester, Eleanor Duchess of,
her "necromancy" (1410), 363.
Gloucester, Mary Duchess of
(1859), memorial, 720.
Glover, Richard (Leonidas, d.
1785), educated, 87 ; at Wick
ham, 696.
Gobions, seat of Sir John More
and his son Sir Thomas, the
great Lord Chancellor, 433.
Godfrey,Peter,M.P. (1742), mont,
736-
Godolphin, Dr., Provost of Eton,
built Baylis (1695)^ 576.
Godolphin, Col. Sidney (1732),
mont, 148.
Godolphin School, 274.
Godstone Court, 233.
Godstone Road, 677.
Godwin, William (Caleb Wil
liams, d. 1836), minister at Ware,
674.
Goflfs Oak, 95.
Goldie, G., college by, 431.
Goldhigs, 676.
Goldsmith, Oliver (1774), visits at
Dawley, 139 ; tradition respect
ing, 292 ; at the Hyde — his
rooms, 374 ; portrait, 409.
Goldsmiths' Almshouses, 4.
Golf Club, Scottish, head-quarters,
704.
Goliath Training Ship (burned,
Dec. 23, 1875), 245.
Gomme, Sir Bernard de, recon
structs forts at Tilbury, 613.
Condomar, Count, portrait, 309.
Gonsalvi, Cardinal, portrait, 726.
Good, John Mason, M.D. (1827),
birthplace, 190.
Good, William, residence, 224.
Goodhart, C. E., residence, 37.
Goodman, Bp. Godfrey (1655,
Memoirs of Court of James I.),
held living, 570.
Gordon House, 382.
Gordon, Lord and Lady Frederic,
lived, 382.
Gore Lodge, 224.

Gore, Hon. C. A. , residence, 706.
Gore, Lieut-Gen. H., mont, 415.
Goring, Lord, portrait, 264.
Giischen, Henry, residence, 603.
Gosling, R., residence, 16.
Gosling, Mrs., residence, 92.
Gostling, George (1799), mural
mont., 641.
Gostling, Miss, residence, 694.
Gothic House, 707.
Gough, Richard (1809), antiquary,
lived, 185; mont, 754.
Gough's Park, 185.
Goulburn, Col. Edward, seat, 43.
Goulburn, Rt. Hon. Henry (1856),
Chancellor of the Exchequer,
lived, 43. ¦
Gould's Green, 358.
Gower, G. W. G. Leveson, estate,
603 ; builds church ; seat,
614.
Graham, A., residence, 514.
Graham, G. J., residence, 188.
Grandison, W. Villiers Visct.
portrait, 264.
Grange, The, Bushey, 69 ; Couls-
don, 117; Molesey, 438; Seward
stone, 549.
Grantham, Lord, lived, 6.
Grattan, Henry, M.P., duel with
Marq. of Londonderry, 705.
Graves, W. T., residence, 676.
Gray, Lady Catherine, lived, 333.
Gray, Rev. John Edward, resi
dence, 682.
Gray, Thomas (1771), at Stoke
Poges ; scene of Long Story and
Ele^y, 574 ; cenotaph, 574 ;
buried with mother and aunt,
575-
Gray, Rev. T. Sill, D.D., resi
dence, 513.
Great Gaines, 644.
Great Nelmes, 361.
Green, Valentine (1813), engraver,
lived, 286.
Green, Mrs., residence, 267.
Green, Sir William (1811), tomb
and curious epitaph, 473.
Greenford Green, 246.
Greenhill, John, portrait by, 155.
Greenhill, 324.
Greensted Hall, 247.
Greensted Green, 247.
Greenstreet, 162.
Green Street Green (Darenth), 135-
Green Street Green (Farn
borough), 214.
Greenwood, James (Virgin Muse),
schoolmaster, 738.
Greg, W. R., residence, 707.
Greig, Captain W., 565.
Grenadiers first brought into ser
vice, 369.
Grene, Walter (middle of 15th
cent), tomb, 336.
Gresham, Sir Thomas(i579), builds
Osterley House ; entertains
Queen Elizabeth ; alters the
courtyard to please her ; jests
upon, 461 ; portrait, 614.
Greuze, painting by, 309.
Greville, Visct, seat, 115.

Grey, Earl, portrait, 587.
Grey, Lady Jane (i554)> offered
crown at Syon, 600.
Griffiths, Ralph (1803), editor of
the Monthly Review, buried,
107.
Grimstone, Sir Edward (1446),
portrait, 235.
Grimstone, Sir Harbottle, Bart.
(1683), seat, 234 ; portrait, 235.
Grimstone, James, 2nd Visct.,
portrait, 235.
Grimwood, G. A., residence, 658.
Grindall, Abp. (1583), portrait, 222.
Grissell, Thos., lived, 420.
Grocyn, William (1519), Greek.
scholar, rector, 553.
Grose, Francis, antiquary (1791),
lived, 667.
Grosvenor, Earl, former seat of,
502.
Grosvenor, Field-Marshal Thomas
(1851), tomb, 704.
Grote, George (1871), birthplace,
37 ; planned, wrote larger part
and finished History at Burn
ham ; built History Hut, 67 ; his
guests, 68 ; lived, 463, 485 ; at
Chevening, 96; scholar at, 549.
Grottoes : Scott of Amwell' s, 12 ;'
Pope's, 635 ; Oatlands, 689 ;
Cecil's at Wimbledon, 702.
Grove End, Addlestone, 8.
Grove End, Chiswick, no.
Grove House, Chiswick, no;
Woodford, 737.
Grove House, Twickenham, de
signed by Inigo Jones ; resi
dence of Philip Duke of Whar
ton, and James Craggs, friend
of Pope, 638.
Grove, The, Burford Bridge, 55 ;
Cassiobury, 78 ; Chalfont, 83 ;
Chiswick, no; Cowley, 120;
Hanwell, 313 ; Harlington, 318 ;
Muswell Hill, 443 ; Northaw,
449 ; Seal, 548.
Grove, Joseph (1764), Life of
Wolsey, .buried, 504.
Grovelands, 560.
Groves, South Ockendon, 457.
Gruner, Prof., decorations of
Royal Mausoleum, Frogmore,
732-
(juercino, paintings by, 157, 465,
727, 728 ; drawings by, 730.
Guest, Dr., on Caesar's passage of
the Thames, 119.
Guido, paintings by, 157, 228,308,
3°9, 465 I drawings by, 730.
Guild of the Virgin, Uxbndge,
647.
Guildford, Countess of, residence,
478.
Guildford, Sir Henry, portrait, 727*
Guillim, John (1621), the herald,
lived, 658.
Gumley House, 382.
Gun, the 80-ton, manufacture de
scribed, 746.
Gun cotton, manufactured at,
655-
Gun Factory, Woolwich, 746.

772

INDEX.

Gundulf, Bp. (1108), church at
tributed to, 134; church built
by, 135-
Gundry, J. , residence, 557.
Gunnersbury House, residence of
Princess Amelia, 159.
Gunnersbury Park, 159.
Gunning, the Misses, at Hampton
Court, 306.
Gunpowder explosions: at Dart
ford, 137 ; Erith, 202 ; Ewell,
213 ; Hanworth, 313 ; Hounslow,
372-
Gunpowder Magazine, Royal, 475.
Gunpowder Factory, Royal, at
Waltham, 655.
Guns, ancient, 751, 752.
Gurney, H. E.r residence, 229.
Gurney, Samuel, lived, 471 ;
memorial to, 579 ; estate se
cured for public park, 684.
Gurney, W. L., residence, 419.
Guthrie, William, miscellaneous
compiler (1770), lived, 430.
Gwyn-Jefferys,John,LL.t).,D.L., residence, 673.
Gwynne, Nell (1687), at Fulham,
228 ; at Highgate, 352.
Gyll, G. W. J., seat, 755.
Habershon, — , churches by, r&3 ;
Hackett, Bp. (1670), rector, 86.
Hadden, Gen. W. C, residence,
438.
Hadfield, M. E., building by,
5"-
Hadley House, 267.
Haigh, Mrs., residence, 589.
Haileybury College, 13.
Hainault Forest, fragment of, 99.
Hakewill, E. C, church restored
by, 43-
Hale, C. G., residence, 548.
Hale, Sir Matthew(i676), lived, 4,
Hales, John (Ever Memorable,
1656), tomb, 210.
Hales, Stephen, D.D. (Vegetable
Statics, d. 1761), curate of Ted
dington 51 years ; builds church
tower, and is buried under it,
604.
Halfway Street, 45.
Halifax, Charles Montague Earl of
(1715), built the Lodge, Bushey
Park, 312.
Haling House and Park, 131.
Halkett, Baroness, residence, 167.
Hall, Colli^on, residence, 682.
Hall, John, Bp. of Norwich (1656),
curate of Waltham 22 years,
654.
Hall, John, vicar of Isleworth,
hanged at Tyburn (1539) for
denying the royal supremacy,
381.
Hall Lands, 455.
Hall, Misses, residence, 696.
Hall, S. C, lived, 8.
Hall, William, musician, author
of 'Triplia Concordia' (1700),
buried, 504.
Hall Place, 45-

Hall, The, 418.
Hallam, Henry, historian (1859),
lived, 225.
Hallam, Mrs. Anne (1740), famous
as Lady Macbeth, mont, 436.
Hallet's Villa (CanonS), 74-
Halley, Edmund (1742)* buried,
416.
Halliford House, 554.
Hallowell-Carew, Adm. Sir Benj.
(1831), 30 ; mont, 40.
Halstead Place, 267.
Halsteads, 550.
Ham House, Petersham, 270.
Ham House, West Ham, 684.
Ham House, Weybridge, built by
Duke of Norfolk, 691.
Ham Walks, lounge of Swift,
Pope, and Gay, 273.
Hamilton, Hon. Charles, resi
dence and gardens at Pain's
Hill, 114.
Hamilton, Lady, at Merton, 428.
Hamilton, James, ist Marquis of,
portrait, 307.
Hammer, the 40-ton, Woolwich,
746.
Hammond, Dr., granted the site
of Chertsey Abbey by James I.,
90.
Hampton House, 294.
Hanbury, C. A. , 'residence, 32.
Hanbury, Osgood, residence, 682.
Hancock, Sir S., residence, 97.
Handel, G. F. (1759), at Barn
Elms, 36; at Canons, 73, 566 ; his
organ, 566 ; harmonious black
smith, 567 ; portrait, 409.
Handforth, Sir Humphrey, seat ;
entertains James I., 737.
Hanger Hill House, 160.
Hankey, F. A., residence, 92.
Hankey, G. B., residence, 216.
Hanneman, A., portrait by, 264.
Hanover, Princess Sophia, por
trait, 407.
Hanway, Jonas (1786), buried, 312.
Hanwell Park, 313.
Harcourt, Field-Marshal Earl
(1830), mont., 720.
Harcourt family tombs, 755.
Harcourt, Lady Selina, portrait,
587.
Harcourt, W. Vernon, M.P., resi
dence, 638.
Hardenberg, Prince, portrait, 726.
Hardwick, Philip, R.A,, buildings
by, 666, 694.
Hardwick, Thomas, church by,
669.
Hardwicke, Philip Yorke, ist
Earl of, Lord Chancellor (1764),
lived, 75.
Hardy, Admiral Sir Charles (1780),
portrait, 255..
Hardy, Admiral Sir Thomas
(Nelson's friend, d. 1839), por
trait, 255.
Hare, Francis, Bp. of Chichester
(d. 1740), rector of Barnes (1717-
27), 27 ; buried, 82.
Hare Hall, 514.
Harefield Grove, 317.

Harefield House, 317.
Harefield Park, 317.
Harefield Place, 316.
Harlesden Green, 6gg.
Harlesden House, 699.
Harlington Lodge, 318.
Harlowe, Clarissa, at Hampstead,
282.
Harman, Admiral Sir John, por
trait, 255.
Harold (1060) builds church and
founds College ofthe Holy Cross
at Waltham ; visits it before
marching against William of
Normandy; buried ; tradition of
his tomb, 651 ; house at Wind
sor, 734 ; quarrel with his bro*
ther Tostig, 734.
Harringay House, 364.
Harrington, Sir W., mont., 341.
Harris, C, residence, 154.
Harris, Mrs., residence, 555.
Harrison, F., residence, 36.
Harrison, J. F., residence, 78.
Harrison, Sir • J. (1669), builds
house at Balls Park, 341; mont,
340.
Harrison, John, chronometer
maker (1776), buried, 286.
Harrison, T. E., residence, 159.
Harrow Lodge, 361.
Harrow School, foundation, 322 ;
scholars, 323 ; buildings, 323. '
Harry-Grace-a-Dieu, built,' 740 ;
launched in presence 'of Henry
VIII., 741.
Harsnett Samuel, Archbp. of
York (1631), brass, 98 ; founds
Grammar School, 98
Hart, Charles, tragic actor (1683),
buried, 564.
Hart, Sir George (1587), and wife,
mont, 423.
Hart, Sir Perceval (1580), lived,
460 ; mont. , 423.
Hartley, David, M.D. (1813), ex
periments with fireproof houses,
479-
Hartley, Mrs., residence, 442.
Hartopp, Sir J. W. C, Bart,
residence, 403.
Hartsbourne Manor House, 69.
Harvey, Sir Felton (1819), mont,
166.
Harvey, W. J. , residence, 199.
Hastias, Serjeanty of, 5.
Hastings, Lord (beheaded 1483),
buried, 713 ; chapel, 719.
Hastings, Warren (1818), lived,735.
Hatch, 270.
Hatch End, 470.
Hatcham, 147.
Hatchard, — , church by, 196.
Havers, J. Cory, residence, 644.
Havering Park, 333.
Hawke, Admiral Lord(i78i), por
trait, 255.
Hawkesworth, Dr. John (1773), in
scriptions by; mont., 61.
Hawkins, Adml. Sir John (1595),
portrait, 255.
Hawkins, Sir John (1789), * His
tory of Music/ lived, 352, 638.

INDEX.

773

HIGH-STONE OnEMSK.

Hawkins, LaHitia Matilda (1835),
lived, 639 ; mont., 641.
Hawkins, Rhode, building by,
665.
Hawksmoor, Nicholas (1736),
mont, 553.
Hawkwood House, 99. ¦
Hawley House, 595.
Hawtrey, Ralph (1638), mont.,
Hay, Lord James, lived, 382.
Haydon, Benj. R. (1846), painting
by, 151.
Hayes Court (Kent), 334-
Hayes Court (Middlesex), 336.
Hayes End, 336.
Hayes Park, 336.
Hayes Place, 334.
Haynes, W._, residence, 28g.
Hayter, Bishop (1762), mont.,
221.
Hayward.C. F., F.S.A., building
by, 324-
Hay ward, J. C, ftsidence, 700.
Hazlewood, 2.
Head, Sir Francis Bond, ' Bubbles
from the Brunnen' (1875),
buried, 546.
Headley Grove, 336.
Headley House, 336.
Headley, Tanfield G., residence,
470.
Healy, portrait by, 588.
Heame, Thos. (1817), 'Antiq. of
Great Britain, mont., 68.
Heart-burial, curious instance of,
536-
Hearts, 737.
Heath, Baron J. B., residence,
502.
Heath,' Robert, and wife, mont.,
55-
Heath House, 28g.
Heath Row, 320.
Heathcote, R. B., residence, 9g.
Heathcote, Lionel, residence, 403.
Heathfield, G. A Eliott Lord
(1790), defender of Gibraltar,
lived, 159 ; died, 627.
Heathfield Lodge, 6.
Hedges, Sir Charles, Secretary
of State to Queen Anne, lived,
502.
Heere, Lucas de, painting by,
309, 310.
Heidegger, Count (1749). enter-
tains George II. at Bam Elms,
26 ; buried, 504.
Helme, Thomas, residence, 54.
Helps.Sir Arthur(r87s), lived, 391.
Hemery, Capt. C, residence, 267.
Henchman, Bp. Humphrey (1675),
portraits, 222, 265.
Henderson, 'Mrs., residence, 415.
Hengest and Asc defeat Britons
at Crayford, 122.
' Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles
I. (1699), improves Greenwich
Palace, 251 ; granted manor of
Richmond as dower, 491 : at
Hanworth, 314; at Oatlands,
688; at Wimbledon House,
7or ; portraits, 264, 725.

Henry I., house at Sunbury, 591 ;
at Windsor, 710.
Henry II. at Windsor, 711.
Henry III., sister Isabel married
at Dartford to Emp. Frederic
II., 136; kept Christmas at
Eltham, 169 ; built house at
King's Langley, 396-; seizes
Kingston Castle, 398 ; made
great .alterations at Windsor
Castle'; founds chapel and builds
Domus Regis, 711 ; last years r
-his parable, 711 ; his building^,
. 71$, 722 ; contemporary portrait,
722.
"Henry IV. met Manuel Pateolo-
gus, Emperor of the East, at
Blackheath, 46 ; kept Christmas
at Eltham, 169 ; at Windsor, 712.
Henry V. met by Lord Mayor
and citizens on return from
Agincourt, 46 ; kept Christmas
at Eltham, 169 ; rebuilds palace
and founds monastery at Rich
mond, 489 ; at Windor ; holds
James I. of Scotland captive
there, 712 ; portrait, 21 r.
Henry VI. met by Lord Mayor
and citizens at Blackheath, after
his coronation, 46 ; encamped at,
47 ; kept Christmas at Eltham,
169 ; founds Eton College, 208 ;
Statue, 210 ; portrait, 211 ;
born and buried at Windsor,
713.
Henry VII. defeats Cornish rebels
at Blackheath, 47 ; builds new
front to Eltham, n;s favourite
residence, 169 ; met by Mayor
and citizens at Hornsey Park,
363 ; rebuilds Richmond Palace;
died there (1509), 489 i buildings
at Windsor, 713 ; portraits, 310,
586.
Henry VIII, born at Greenwich,
249 ; nursed at Byfleet, 70 ; dis
likes Croydon, 127 ; at Eltham,
169 ; at Gravesend, 237 ; resi
dence at Greenwich ; his sump
tuous festivities ; marries Katha
rine of Aragon there ; goes
"Maying ; tournaments, 249 ; at
Hampton Court, 297 ; hunting
' seat at Hanworth, 313 ; builds
Nonsuch Palace, 446 ; Oatlands,
687 ; at Richmond, 490 ; at
Tittenhanger Park, 421 ; at
Hunsdon, 372 ; at Tottenham,
618 ; at Waltham, 652 ; splendid
feasts at Windsor, 713 ; receives
Golden Rose, 713 ; at Woolwich
Dockyard, 741 ; portraits, 309-
310, 408 ; statue, 209 ; burial-
place, 714, 718.
Henry IV. of France, portrait,
330.
Henry, Prince, son of James I.,
keeps house at Richmond (1610),
491. .
Henry, Prince, youngest son of
Charles I., born, 688.
Henty, Robert, residence, 445.
Hentzner, German traveller, 1598,

at Greenwich, 250 ; Hampton
Court, 300 ; Nonsuch, 447.
Hepburn, J. Gooch, residence,
557-
Hepdon, Sir John (1670), mont.,
61$.
Herbert Hospital, 556.
Herbert, George, poet (1633),
lived, 738.
Herbert, William, ' editor of
Ames ' (1795), buried, 95.
Hermitage, The (Northend), 450.
Hermitage, The, Walton-on-the
Hil), 659.
Hermits, and Hermitages, 136,
345, 616-
Heme, H. H. B« residence. 69.
Heme's Oak, 731.
Heron Gate, 361.
Herrera, painting by, 265.
Herring, Archbp. (1757), last
archbp. buried at Croydon, 6,
129.
Herringham, Henry (publisher of
Davenant and Dryden (d. 1703),
mont. 75.
Herrys, Lady Anne (1613), mont.,
97.
Herschel, Caroline Lucretia(i848),
*557-
Herschel, Sir William (1822),
house at Slough, 557 ; his 40-foQt
telescope, 558 ; mont., 644.
Herschel, Sir J. W. F. (1871),
born at Slough, 557.
Herschels, 557-
Hersham, 663.
Hertford, Marquis of, portrait by
Vandyck, 264.
Hertford, Lord (Duke of Somer-
¦ set), seat, 487.
Hertford, 'Lady (Duchess of
Somerset), her description of
Richings, 487 ; died (1754). 488.
Heston Hall, 342.
Heston House, 342.
Hewer, William, Pepys's ' man
(1715), house at Clapham, tu ;
mont., 112. -
Heyborne, Sir Ferdinando (1618),
mont., 623.
Heydon, family seat, 680.
Heywood, John (c. 1565), wrote
' Epigrams,' 434.
Hibbert, J. N. H., residence, 83.
Hickes, Sir Michael (1612), mont,
410.
Hickes, Sir William (1680), mont,
4*9-
Hickes, Sir William the younger
(1702), mont, 419.
Hickman, Walter (1617), mont,
503. . ,
Hickman, P. D., residence, 207.
Hicks, Francis, residence, 269.
Higate, Thomas (iS76). tomb,
336.
High Beech Hill, 343-
High Canons, 553.
High Elms, 154.
High Grove, 516. .
High Leigh, 360.
High-stone Obelisk, 267.

774

INDEX.

HIGHAM COURT.

Higham Court, 737.
Highbed, Thomas, burnt for
heresy under Q. Mary, 362.
Highwayman, chase and death of
(1738), 225.
Highwaymen, haunts of, 116, 174,
190, 218, 291, 343, 370, 478,
554> 632, 705.
Highwood House, 432.
Hildebert, St., Shrine, visited by
Canterbury Pilgrims, 597.
Hill, The, 289.
Hill, Aaron (1750), lived, 472.
Hill, Herbert, uncle of Southey
(1828), rector, 590.
Hill Hall, 609.
Hill House, Chigwell, 98.
Hill House, Streatham, 590.
Hill House, Wembley, 682.
Hill Park, seat of the Cotton
family, 686.
Hill, Sir Roger (1670), mont., 140.
Hill, Rowland, at Bruce Castle,
619.
Hill, Rowland Viscount (1842),
portrait, 726.
Hilliard, Major W. E., residence,
20.
Hilliard, Nicholas (1619), paint
ings by, 235, 330.
Hillingdon Court, 358.
Hillingdon House, residence of
the Rockingham family, 358.
Hillingdon Lodge, 358.
Hilton, William, R.A. (1839),
painting by, 152.
Hind, John Russell, F.R.S., resi
dence, 633.
Hinds, P. L., residence. 70.
Hirst, T. Hotham, residence, 682.
Hislop, Sir Thomas, G.C.B.
(1834), mont., 84.
Hoadly, Bp. Benj. (1761), born,
686 ; holds living at Streatham,
59°-
Hoare, Mrs. F. (1799), mont., 84.
Hoare, Mrs. Gurney, residence,
289.
Hoare, Mrs. H. M., mont. (1824),
590-
Hoare, Lady (1800), mont, 36.
Hoare, the Misses, residence,
557-
Hoare, Prince (1834), lived, 37 ;
mont., 103.
Hoare, Sir Richard Colt (1838),
residence, 26.
Hoare, Samuel, lived, 289.
Hobbema, M., painting by, 156.
Hobbes, Thomas (metaphysician,
d. 1679), tutor, 511; portrait,
409.
Hobhouse, Sir Benj., M.P. (1831),
lived, 694.
Hodgson, J., residence, 466.
Hodgson, Kirkman D., M.P.,
residence, 549.
Hodgson, R., residence, 99.
Hoffman, A., residence, 6.
Holland, Mrs. (1844), ' Son of a
Genius,' mont., 504.
Hogarth, J. R., residence, 342.
Hogarth, William (1764), house

and grounds, 108 ; voyage to
Gravesend in a tilt-boat, 238 ;
tomb, 107 ; his widow, mother-
in-law, and sister buried with
him, 107 ; original sketch of
' Beggars' Opera,' 585 ; paint
ings by, 265, 421, 465.
Hogarth, Mrs. (1789), continues
at Chiswick, and keeps up
Hogarth's customs, 108 ; at
church, 108 ; grave, 107.
Hohenlohe-Langenberg, Princess,
monumental bust, 731.
Holbein, paintings by or attri
buted to, 18, 157, 172, 211, 309,
310, 362, 406, 408, 602, 691, 727 ;
drawings by, 730.
Holcroft's, 224.
Holford, A., residence, 659.
Holland, Charles, comedian(i76g),
mont., 107.
Holland, Henry Rich, ist Earl
(beheaded 1649), portrait, 235.
Holland, Henry (architect, d.
1806), builds Oatlands, 689;
Wimbledon Park House, 703.
Holland, Lady, residence, 15.
Holland, R., residence, 565.
Hollis, C., church by, 709.
Holloway Sanatorium, 649.
Holly Lodge, Highgate, 353.
Holly Village, 353.
Holme Lodge, 662.
Holmes, W., residence, 122.
Hoi well, John Zephanian, Governor
of Bengal (1798), lived, 470.
Holwood, 334.
Holwood, seat of William Pitt ;
house enlarged by Pitt ; pulled
down ; new house built ; park,
and ' Pitt's Oak ' 387.
Holyfield, 655.
Holyrood House, 639.
Home-Drummond-Moray, C., resi
dence, 470.
Homes : Princess Mary's Village,
7 ; for Little Girls, 160 ; Roman
Catholic Convalescent, 313 ;
Metropolitan Convalescent for
Girls, 388 ; for Little Boys, 368 ;
Girls' Industrial Orphan, 625 ;
Friendless Boys', 666 ; Princess
Louise, for Young Girls, 671 ;
Mrs. Gladstone's Convalescent,
736-
Hone, Nathaniel, R. A. (1 784),
buried, 337.
Honthorst, G., portraits by, 264,
307, 407, 408, 725.
Hood, Admiral Alexander, Visct. ,
of Bridport(i8i4), portrait, 255.
Hood, Thomas (1845), wrote
' Tylnley Hall' at, 670; lived,
708.
Hook, The, 449.
Hook, Theodore Edward (1841),
residence, 223 ; tomb, 221.
Hooker, Alice, daughter of the
author of the 'Ecclesiastical
Polity,' buried (1649), 101.
Hooker, Dr. Joseph Dalton, resi
dence, 391.
Hooker, Sir William (1865), ap

pointed Director of Kew
Gardens, 392.
Hookwood, 421.
Hoole, John, translator of Tasso
and Ariosto (1803), educated,
359 ; lived, 568 ; buried, 150.
Hooper, Mrs. Rowland, residence,
342.
Hope, E. Elias, residence, 124.
Hope, Henry Thomas, unites
Betchworth Park with Deep-
dene, 44.
Hope, Thomas (Anastatius), builds
Deepdene, 151 ; patronage of
Thorwaldsen, 151.
Hope, Mrs., seat, 150.
Hopkins, Benjamin Bond (1794),
lived, 706 ; tomb, 704.
Hopkins, John (Vulture, d. 1732),
mont., 704.
Hoppner, John, R.A.'(i8io), paint
ing by, 235.
Hopson, Admiral Sir Thomas
(1717), mont., 692.
Horn Fair; 85.
Hornby, Sir E., residence, 486.
Home, George, Bp. of Norwich
(1792), tomb, 171.
Horneck, Katherine and Mary
(Goldsmith's Comedy and
Jessamy Bride), monts., 692.
Horner, E, residence, 123.
Horns, swearing on at Highgate,
34<5-
Horns at Hornchurch, 360.
Hornsey Wood, 364.
Horsington Hill, 467.
Horticultural Gardens, Chiswick,
no.
Horton House, 365.
Horton, Sir Robert Wilmot,
Governor of Ceylon, residence,
469.
Hoskyns,E., Knt. (1664), mont, 75.
Hotham House, 502.
Houblon, Mrs., residence, 609.
Hounslow Heath, 369.
Hounslow, Robert de, 369.
Hour-glass, pulpit, stand, 573.
How Hatch, 682.
Howard, Catherine (1542), at
Hampton Court, 298.
Howard, Charles, Earl of Not*
tingham, Lord High Admiral
(1624), portrait, 255.
Howard, Henrietta. See Suffolk,
Countess of.
Howard, Henry, Earl of Surrey
(*547)> portrait, 309.
Howard, Luke, F.R.S. (1864),
lived, 472.
Howard, Margaret, wife of Earl
of Orrery, buried, 381.
Howard, Henry, R.A. (1847),
portrait by, 255.
Howard. Sir Robert, "Sir Positive
Atall " (1698), lived, 17.
Howard, Hon. Mrs., residence, 17.
Howe, Baroness, lived at Pope*s
Villa ; pulled down and rebuilt
house, 637.
Howitt, William and Mary, lived,
353-

INDEX.

775

JOHNSON.

Howley, Archbp. (1848), tomb, 6.
Hudson, Thomas (1779), portraits
by, 77, 265.
Hudson, W., residence, 7.
Huggins, John, founds college at
Northfleet ; mont., 451.
Hughes, Admiral Sir Edward
(1794), portrait, 255.
Hughes, E. Hughes Ball, pur
chases Oatlands, 691.
Hughes, Margaret, actress, lived,
275 ; buried (1719), 416.
Huguenots at Wandsworth ; their
cemetery, 664.
Hulse Wood, 700.
Humbert, A. J., building by, 731.
Humboldt, Baron Von (1855),
visits Cavendish, m; portrait,
726.
Hume, Sir Abraham (1838), mont.,
755-
Hurafreys, Sir Orlando (i 736),
mont., 22.
Hundred Steps, Windsor Castle,
722.
Hunsdon House, 373.
Hunsdon, John Carey, 3rd Baron,
mont, 373.
Hunsdonbury, 374.
Hunt, Leigh, born (1784), 560 ; at
Hampstead, 291 ; died (1859),
478.
Hunter, William, martyr (1555),
obelisk to, 60.
Hunter, William, M.D. (1783),
residence, 79.
Huntingfield, Joshua Vanneck
Lord, built Roehampton Grove,
S".
Huntsmore Park, 384.
Hurd, Richard, Bp. of Worcester
(1808), portrait, 309.
Hurlingham House, 224.
Hurstwood, 65.
Hyde, Henry, residence, 267.
Hylton, Lord (d. 1876), seat,
425-
Hynningham, George (1536), ser
vant of Henry VIII., residence ;
founded almshouse, 619 ; brass,
623.
ICKENHAM Hall, 375.
Idiots, Asylum for, 482.
Ilex, large, 176.
Imbecile Asylums, Metropolitan
District, 78, 680.
Imber Court, 149.
Impey, Sir Elijah, Indian judge,
(1809), mont., 274 ; house, 277.
Ince Grice, now Ingress Abbey,
246.
Incurables, Royal Hospital for,
477-
Ind, Edward, residence, 676.
Indian Engineering College, 117.
¦ Industrial Schools : for Boys,
Barnet, 31; Agricultural, 60;
Brockham Home, 60; for St.
George's - in - the - East, 162 ;
Middlesex, 216; St. Pancras,
¦ at Leavesden, 680.
Infant Orphan Asylum, 558.

Ingelo, Nathaniel, author of
* Bentevoglio,' buried, 210.
Ingleby, C. M., LL.D., resi
dence, 375.
Ingram, Mrs., residence, 662.
Ingress Abbey, 246.
Inns, noted, 57, 165, 195, 207,282,
284, 311, 353. 498, 558, 593. 621,
656, 709.
Inwoods, T. E. , residence, 452.
Ireland, George Boulnois, resi
dence, 755.
Ireton, General (1651) house, 351.
Ironside, Edward, historian of
Twickenham (1813), buried,
642.
Isabella, widow of Edward II. ,
prisoner at, 339.
Islay, Archibald Earl of, builds
mansion and plants Whitton
Place ; epigram on his garden,
694.
Isleworth House, 382.
Isley, John, justice of the peace
(1484), mont., 593.
Iver Grove, 384.
Ivor Hall, 432.
Jack, Charles, residence, 189.
Jackson the highwayman hung on
Hampstead Heath (1673), 291.
Jackson, John, D.D., Bishop of
London, incumbent, 443.
Jackson, H. T., residence, 555.
James, F., residence, 140.
James, John (of Greenwich), build
ings by, 72,261, 640.
James, King, and the Tinkler,
ballad, 178.
James, Sir William, captor of
Severndroog (1783), mont, 172 ;
Severndroog Castle erected as
a memorial by his widow, 555.
James I. at Broxbourne, 64 ; at
Eltham, 170 ; Fulham, 223 ;
Gravesend, 237 ; Hampstead,
287 ; Hampton Court, 300 ;
exchanges Hatfield for Theo
balds, 327, 606 ; at Hatfield,
328 ; at Havering, 332 ; High-
gate, 350; Northfleet, 451 ;
Hearts, 737 ; Oatlands, 688 ;
Wimbledon, 701 ; Windsor, 714 ;
entertains Christian IV., 714;
royal entertainments at Theo
balds, 606 ; makes it his chief
hnnting seat ; and dies there,
607 ; portraits, 235, 263, 272, 308,
310, 330, 407, 726 ; statue, 330.
James II. at Gravesend with
Queen Mary, 237 ; with army
encamped at Hounslow Heath,
370 ; at Twickenham, 630 ; re
ceives Papal envoy at Windsor,
714; converts Wolsey's chapel
into a Roman CathoHc chapel,
715 ; portraits, 255, 264, 587, 588,
681, 726.
James I. of Scotland captive at
Windsor, 712.
James IV. of Scotland, body car
ried to Sheen Convent and left
unburied. 550.

Jane Seymour, Queen, portrait,
406 ; grave, 718.
Janet See Clouet, Fr.
Jansen, Abraham (1763), tomb,
704.
Jansen, Cornelius, portraits by, 76,
222, 229, 264, 265, 310, 407, 465.
Jansen, Sir Theodore (1748), pulls
down Wimbledon House, 703 ;
tomb, 704.
Jeakes, Mrs., residence, 351.
Jebb, John, Bp. of Limerick
(1833), mont., 112.
Jebb, Sir Richard, Bart, M.D. ,
baptized at, 684.
Jebb, Dr. Samuel (1772), Uved,
684.
Jeckel, T., church by, 570.
Jeffreys, Judge (1689), lived, 83,
415 ; house, 230.
Jekyll, Sir Joseph (1738), resi
dence ; died, 433.
Jenkins, Abel, residence, 207.
Jenkins, H. T., residence, 05.
Jenkins, Sir Leoline (1685), died,
278.
Jenner, Sir Thomas, Baron of the
Exchequer (1707), mont,, 468.
Jennings, Admiral Sir John (1.745),
portrait, 255.
Jerrold, Douglas (1857), lived, 478,
Jersey, Dowager Countess of, resi
dence, 59.
Jersey, Edward Villiers, ist Earl
of, portrait, 265.
Jersey, William, 3rd Earl, por
trait, 265.
Jervas, Charles (1739), portraits
by, 71. 77- 4°9-
Jesse, Edward (1868), lived, 496;
on plants and animals in Rich
mond Park, 497.
Jews, toll on, 56 ; propose to pur
chase Brentford, 56.
Jews' Cemetery, 685, 699.
Jews' Hospital, 453.
Joanna of Navarre, widow of
Henry IV., earliest autograph
letter of an English queen, 396.
Jobson, Edward (16th cent),
mont, 709.
John of Eltham born (1316), 169.
John, King, hunting lodge, 138;
at Kingston. 398 ; at Runni
mede, 516, 711, 755 ; at Windsor,
711.
John, King of France, prisoner at
Hertford Castle, 339 ; St. Albans
Abbey, 522 ; at Windsor Castle,
712; entertained, 169.
Johnson, C. W., residence, 19.
Johnson, Charles, dramatist (1748),
mont., 337.
Johnson, Hester (Swift's Stella),
baptized, 5°4-
Johnson, Joseph, bookseller of St.
Paul's (1809), tomb, 221.
Johnson, J. F., residence, 755.
Johnson, J., churches by, 349, 512,
513, 704.
Johnson, Dr. Samuel (1784), visits
Scott's grotto, 12 ; lodged at
Greenwich, 259 ; wrote ' Vanity

776

INDEX.

LAMBARDE.

of Human Wishes' at Hamp
stead, 290 ; applies for residence
at Hampton Court, 303 ; at
Streatham, 589 ; at Twicken
ham, 632 ; spent a week at
Warley Camp, 676; portrait,
409 ; wife's (Tetty's) grave, 61.
Johnstone, James, Sec. of State
for Scotland (1737), house ; De
Foe's account of; entertains
Queen Caroline in, 629.
Joinville, Prince de, at Twicken
ham, 631.
Jolliffe family monts. at Merst
ham, 425.
Jones, G., R.A., painting by, 256.
Jones, Prof. Richard (1854), tomb,
12.
Jones, R„ residence, 695.
Jones, Sir William, Attorney-
General to Charles II., lived,
2go.
Jones, Bp. of Kildare (1804),
mont, 720.
Jones, Inigo (1652), buildings by,
83, 96, 109, 177, 562 ; alters
Syon, 600 ; lived, 83 ; buildings
attributed to, 8, 52.
Jonson, Ben (1637), at Brentford,
57; Epithalamium, 510; writes
' Masque of the Two Kings,'
606; masque at Windsor, 714.
Jordan, Admiral Sir Joseph, por
trait, 255.
Jordans, 83.
Joseph, N. S., church by, 699.
Joslin, H., residence, 644.
Joyden's Wood, 700.
Joynson, Messrs. , paper mills, 124.
Joynson, W.. residence, 125.
Jubilee (of George III.) Alms
houses, 262.
Juniper tree, 67.
Juniper Hall, 430.
Juxon, Bp., (1660) portrait, 222.
Katherine of Aragon at King
ston, 398 ; son born at Richmond,
490 ; lived, after divorce, 629.
Katherine Howard, Queen, at
Syon, 379.
Kean, Edmund, lived, 450; leases
Richmond Theatre ; plays there
to empty houses ; died (1833),
505; mont., 503.
Keate, George (1797), mont., 381.
Keats, John (1821), wrote ' Endy-
mion ' at Burford Bridge, 55 ;
, apprenticed at, 165 ; at Hamp
stead, 282, 290.
Kederminster, Sir John, founds
almshouses ; builds chapel and
forms library in Langley church,
412.
Kederminster family monts., 412.
Keeling, E. B., churches by, 324,
453*579; ^ . c
Keeling, Judge, portrait, 265.
Keir, The, 707.
Keith, Admiral Visct. (1823), por-
•¦ trait, 255.
Kelk, Sir John, Bart., seat, 564.
Kelsey Park, 37.

Kelsey, E., residence, 463.
Kemble, Mrs. Charles, buried
(1838), 6.
Kemble, H., residence, 474.
Kemble, John Mitchell (1857),
lived, 7.
Kemp, Gen. Sir James, portrait,
726.
Kemnal, 105.
Kempenfeldt,Rear-Admiral(i782), portrait, 255.
Kempton Park, 591.
Ken, Bp. (1711), born, 43.
Kendal, Duchess of, "lived, 382.
Kendal House, 382.
Kendall, H. E., buildings by, 60,
113, 626.
Kenley House, 385.
Kenrick, Miss, residence, 52.
Kent, Edward Duke of (1820),
residence, 159 ; grave, 718 ;
memorial chapel and mont., 720.
Kent, Duchess of (1861), Mauso
leum, 731 ; statue, 731.
Kent, William, landscape gar
dener, buried (1748), 107.
Kent House, Beckenham, 37.
Kenton Grange, 385.
Kenton Lodge, 385.
Keayon, Lloyd, Lord Chief Jus-
" tice (1802), residence, 502.
Keppell, Mrs., widow of Bp. of
Exeter, lived, 382.
Kerr, Prof,, house by, 687.
Kerr, T. Nixon, residence, 699.
Kersboom, portrait by, 311.
Kettle, Tilley (1798), portrait by,
=55-
Kevington, 125.
Key, Sir Kingmill Grove..
residence, 590.
Keyser, S., residence, 565.
Kilburn, 292.
Killick, Miss, residence, 86.
Killigrew, Thomas (1682X
in Lothbury, 314.
Killigrew, William (dramatist, d.
16-93), born ; lived, 313 ; portrait
(with Thomas Carew), 725.
Kilmorey, Earl of, seat, 382.
King, Dowager Lady, residence, 8.
King, Edward (1807), * Monu-
menta Antiqua,' mont, 36.
King, William, LL.D. (1763),
'Anecdotes,' lived, 159.
King-game, at Kingston, 401.
King Henry's Mount, 496.
King, Sirjohn (1599—1637), born,
525-
King, Mother or Moll, at, 290.
King, R. B., church by, 699.
Kingesley, William, mont, 547.
Kings, early English, crowned,
398 ; their coronation stone, 400.
Kingston, Lady Mary (1557),
mont., 419.
Kingswood Lodge, 117.
Kingswood Warren, 403.
Kinmoul, George Hay, Earl of,
portrait, 264.
Kippington Park, 549.
Kippis, Dr. Andrew (1795), ' Bio-
graphiaBritannica,'minister,i5o.

Bart..

born

Kirby, Joshua, F.R.S. (1774),
architect, buried, 388.
Kirby, Mrs., residence, 626.
Kirby, Thomas, S.T.P. (1721),
mont, 660.
Kirk, statue by, 256.
Kirkpatrick, George, mont, 386.
Kit-Cat Club portraits, 26, 33.
Kitchin, Joseph, residence, 687.
Kitching, Rev, W., residence, 735.
Kneller, Sir Godfrey, builds house
at Whitton ; employs Laguerre
to paint it ; lives in state ; sits
as Justice ; Pope's lines on,
605 ; buried in Twickenham
church (1723), 641 ; dispute of
widow with Pope ; mont. not
erected, 641 ; portraits by, 17,
26* 33> 77. 9^> 178, 235, 255, 265,
306, 307, 311, 330, 399, 406, 407,
409, 465, 588, 726.
Kneller Hall, now Military School
of Music, 695.
Knight, Charles ([1873), at Eling
school, 160 ; lived, 352, 384 ;
died, 8 ; memorial bust, 709 ;
grave, 709.
Knight's Hill, 454.
Knighton, Sir George (1613),
mont, 33.
Knighton House, 737.
Knockholt Pound, 404.
Knott's Green, 419.
Knowles, J. T., churches by, 112,
481.
Knowles, T. R., mansions by,
4®3i 565-
Knyvet, Thomas Lord (1622),
tomb, 569.
Koningsmark, Count, arrested at
(1682), 237.
Labelliere, Major Peter, buried
head-downwards (1800), 55.
Lacey, John, lived ; frequently
entertained Queen Elizabeth,
476.
Lackington, James (1816), book
seller, country honse, 427.
Lacy House, 382.
Ladbroke, Richard of Frenches
(I73°)> mont, 486.
Ladies' Hospital, Highgate, first
charity school supported by
voluntary contributions, 349.
Laguerre, Louis (1721), paintings
by, 566* 694-
Lake, G.; residence, 6g.
Lake, Sir Thomas, secretary to
James I., buried (1630), 566.
Lake, Lord, lived, 382.
Laleham House, 410.
Lally-Tollendal, Count (1830),
lived, 504.
Lamb Abbey, 45.
Lamb, Charles (1834), residence at
Edmonton ; mont. with inscrip
tion by Cary, 164 ; lived, 186.
Lambarde, Multon, residence, 549.
Lambarde, William (' Perambula
tion of Kent '), lived and died
(1601), 50 ; college founded by ;
buried, 262; mont, 548.

INDEX.

777

Lambert, Admiral (1836), mont.,
148.
Lambert, B., residence, 19.
Lambert, John, Parliamentary
General (1694), at Wimbledon
House, 701.
Lambert, Colonel, residence, 140.
Lambert s Oaks, 739,
Lamorbey, *5.
Lander and Bedells, college by, 94.
Lanfear, Mrs., residence, 132.
Lanfranc, Archbp. (1089), church
founded by, 321.
Langford, Baron Clotworthy
Lord (1825), mont., 720.
Langham, D. E., residence, 568.
Langhorne, Rev. John, poet
(1779)1 curate at, 133.
Langley Bury, 3.
Langley, E., residence, 172.
Langley Park, Buckinghamshire,
411.
Langley Park, Kent, 37.
Langton, Bennet (1801), at Warley
Camp, 676.
Langton, Lieut -General (1 7 14),
mont., 415.
Langtons, 361.
Lansdowne House, Richmond
Hill, 499.
Lansdowne, Lady, portrait, 265.
Lapidge, E. , bridges and buildings
by, 312, 403, 477.
Latchmere House, 270.
Latimer, Bp. (1555), summoned 10
Windsor, 714.
Latimer Elm, 266.
Latymer, Edward, schools founded
by (1624), 274.
Laud, Archbp. (1645), consecrates
Roehampton chapel, 510 ; held
living, 613 ; portrait, 222.
Lauderdale, John Maitland Duke
of (1682), alters Ham House,
270 ; visited by Pepys at High-
gate, 352.
Lauderdale, Elizabeth, Countess
of Dysart and Duchess of(i698),
her room and relics at Ham
House, 272 ; buried, 469.
Lauderdale House, Highgate, 351.
Laurel, Portugal, largest in Eng
land, 176.
Laurels, The, 27.
Laurent of Paris, painted glass
by, 2.
Laurie, R., residence, 502.
Lavender grounds, 650.
Law, John, residence, 188.
Law, William (1761), author of the
' Serious Call,' lived, 478.
Lawrence, Sir Thomas (1830), por
traits by, 178, 207, 309, 408, 602,
728 ; Waterloo Portraits, 726.
Lawrence, W., residence, 515.
Lawson, Admiral Sir John (1665),
portrait, 255.
Lea, The, 676.
Xea Bridge, 420.
Leaf, Charles, residence, 113.
Leaf, William, lived, 59°-
Lear, paintings by, 587-
Leathersellers' Almshouses, 29.

Leaves Green, 133.
Leavesden, 680.
Le Blanc, Captain, residence, 449.
Le Brim, painting by, 157.
Ledgers, 88.
Lee, C, buildings by, 13, 477,^
Leemput, Remee van, paintings
by, 264, 310.
Leesons, Miss, residence, 125.
Legge, Lady Caroline, residence,
388.
Legh, Lady Margaret (1603),
mont, 221.
Legrew, mont. by, 78.
Leicester, Robert Dudley Earl of
(1588), house, 389 ; portrait, 330.
Leigh Place, 233.
Leigh, Rev. H., residence, 610.
Leigham Court, 590.
Leith Hill, and the view from, 153.
Lely, Sir Peter (1680), country seat
at Kew, 390 ; portraits by, 76, 77,
96, 235, 255, 264, 265, 272, 307,
311, 329, 390, 408, 726.
Lemon, Margaret, portraits of,
3°7» 585-
Lemsford Mills, 326.
Lennard, Col. J. F. , residence,
696.
Lennard family monts., 97.
Lennard, Sir Samuel (1618),
mont. , 697.
Lennard , Sir Thomas Barrett,
residence, 18.
Lennox, Lieut-Col. , duel with
Duke of York, 705.
Lennox, Margaret Douglas
Countess of (157S), portrait, 310.
Lenthall,William(i662),Speakerof the Long Parliament, lived, 639.
Leonards, Lord St. (died Jan. 29,
1875), lived, 148.
Leoni, Giacomo (1746), remodels
the house at Moor Park, 507.
Leopold I., King of the Belgians
(1865), at Claremont, 206; por
trait, 726; mont, 720.
Lepell, Mary, LadyHervey(i768),
portrait, 96.
Lepers' Hospital at Ilford, 376 ;
of St Julian at St. Albans, 54T.
Lescher, J. F., residence, 682.
Leslie, C R-, R.A. (1859), pac
ing by, 77.
Lesness Abbey, history and re
mains of, 1, 473.
Lethieullier, Smart, antiquary of
Essex (1760), mont, 377.
Lethieullier family seat, 37 ;
monts., 377.
Leven and Melville, Earl of, seat,
Lewin, F. M-, residence, 45.
Lewins, 687.
Lewis, B. L., residence, 8.
Lewis, David, ' Philip of Mace-
don' (1700), tomb, 419.
Lewis, E., residence, 700.
Lewis, J. F., R.A. (1876), resi
dence, 662.
Lewis, John, secures right of free
passage through Richmond
Park, 495.

Lewis, Matthew Gregory (1818),
lived, 28.
Leyden, Lucas Van, painting by,
3°7-
Leyton House, 419.
Library, Royal, at Windsor Castle,
founded by WiUiam IV. ; re
modelled and extended by
Prince Consort, 728 ; contents,
729.
Lich Gates: Beckenham, 36; Bex
ley* 45 • Bromley, 61 ; Chalfont
St. Giles, 82 ; Chiselhurst, 102 ;
Hayes, 336 ; Heston, 342 ;
Limpsfield, 421 ; Sanderstead,
546; Shoreham, 556; Sandridge,
593 J Wickham, 697 ; Wyrardis-
bury, 755.
Lightfoot, Rev. John (1629), rab
binical divine, lived, 364.
Lightfoot, Rev. John (1788), 'Flora
Scotica,' buried, 120.
Ligonier, Lord, Field Marshal
(1770), lived, 113.
Lilburne, Major John (Common
wealth), turns Quaker ; died,
(1657), 172.
Lilly, William (Sidrophel), resi
dence, 663 ; buried (I68i), 660.
Lime Lodge, 189.
Lincoln, Edward Earl of, Lord
High Admiral (1584)1 tomb,
719.
Lincoln House, 182,
Lindley; Prof. John, F. R. S. ,
botanist, died (1865), 5.
Lindsay, W. Schaw, residence,
554-
Linnaeus, trees planted by, 431.
Linnell, John, landscape painter,
residence, 290, 481.
Lintott, Bernard (1736), lived, 224.
Lion, the Northumberland, 601.
Liotard, portrait by, 588. _
Lippi, Fra Filippo, drawings by,
73°-
Lisle, Lord, married Anne, daughter
of Protector Somerset, 490.
Lisle, Samuel, Bp. of St. Asaph
(1749), buried, 452.
Little Ealing Park, 160.
Littlebernes, 431.
Littlebury, Isaac, translator of
Herodotus (1710), mont., 594.
Littler, R. D., residence, 560.
Littleton Park, 421.
Liverpool, Charles Jenkihson, ist
Earl of (1808), lived, 6.
Liverpool, Robert Banksjenkinson,
2nd Earl of (1828), Prime Minis
ter, entertained Prince Regent
and Allied Sovereigns, 116 ; por
trait, 726.
Liverpool, Louisa Countess of
(1821), mont by Chantrey, 400.
Lloyd, Herbert C, residence, 360.
Lloyd, Lewis, residence, 696.
Lloyd, William, nonjuring Bp. of
Norwich (1710), lived, 4, 277.
Lock, WiUiam, builds house at
Norbury; guests there, 429.
Locke, John (1704), lived ; died ;
tomb, 413; portraits, 310, 409.

778

Locket, George, residence, 432.
Lock's Bottom, 213.
Lockyer, Nicholas, ejected Provost
of Eton, died (1685), 738.
Lodge, The, Hampton Court,
residence of Ranger, 6g.
Lodge, The, Morden, 438.
Lodge, Thomas, poet(i695), lived,
419.
London, Bishops of, Palace at
Fulham, 222 : royal visitors,
223 ; portraits, 222 ; tombs, 221 ;
ancient seat, 362.
Londonderry, Robert Stewart
Lord Castlereagh and Marquis
of. See Castlereagh.
London Orphan Asylum, 679.
London Stone, Staines, boundary
of City jurisdiction, and dividing
mark of Upper and Lower
Thames, 561.
Long, C. A., building by, 625.
Long, Colonel S., residence, 418.
Long Cross, 92.
Long, Sir J. Tylney(i794), mont.,
669.
Longden, Major-Gen., residence,
2i5-
Longford, 320.
Longland, John, Bp. of Lincoln
(1547), mont., 210.
Longley, Archbp. (186S), buried, 6.
Longman, Thos., residence, 354 ;
died (1797), 291.
Longmore, Philip, residence, 339.
Lonsdale, Earl of, residence, 27.
Lothian, Marquis of, lived, 502.
Lotto, Lorenzo, painting by, 307.
Loudwater House, 509.
Loudwater Paper Mills, 509
Louis Philippe, King ofthe French
(1850), at Claremont, 206 ; at
Twickenham, 630 ; burial-place,
693-
Louis XIV., portrait, 310.
Louis XVIII., lived, 669.
Louisa, Princess (of Saxe Weimar),
d. 1817, mont., 720.
Loutherbourg, Philip James de,
R.A. (1812), lived, 277 ; his mes
meric cures, 278 ; mob break his
windows, 278 ; mont. , 107 ; paint
ing by, 256.
Lovat, Simon Fraser Lord, lived
before arrest, 627.
Love, S., residence, 556.
Lovekyn, Edward (1305), founds
Grammar School, 402.
Lovell, Gregory, cofferer to Queen
Elizabeth (1597), mont., 427.
Lovelace, Colonel, the poet (1658),
portrait, 155.
Lovelace, Earl of, owns manor,
148.
Lovibond, Edward, poet (1775),
scholar at, 402.
Lowe, Rt. Hon. Robert, M.P.,
residence, 78.
Lowen, John, one of Shakspeare's
' Fellows,' lived, 57.
Lower Cheam Park, 86.
Lowth, Robert, Bp. of London
(1787), portrait, 222 ; mont., 221.

INDEX.

Lowlher, Hon. Barbara (1805),
mont. by Flaxman, 503.
Loyd, Jones, residence, 3.
Lubbock, F., residence, 449.
Lubbock, Sir John, M.P., seat,
Lubbock, Sir J. W. (1865), lived,
436.
Lucan, Earl of, seat, 410.
Lucan, Margaret Countess of
(1814), mont., 704.
Lucas, statue by, 318.
Luch, Mrs. C. C, residence, 289.
Lullingstone Castle, 423.
Lumley, John Lord (1609), the
great book collector, mont., 86.
Lunatic Asylum : county of Essex,
60; Middlesex 115, 312; City
of London, 577 ; County of
Surrey, 615.
Lupton, Provost of Eton, chapel
and tomb., 210.
Lushington, E. H., residence, 662.
Lushington, Mary (1797), mont
by Flaxman, 417.
Lushington, Sir Stephen, Uved, 706.
Lusk, Aid. Sir A., Bart, M.P.,
residence, 422.
Luti, B., portrait by, 310.
Lyall, G.. residence, 336, 510.
Lynd, Sir Humphry, builds Cam
bridge House, 632.
Lyndhurst, Lord (1863), lived, 706
buried, 349 ; portrait, 587.
Lyne, 92.
Lyne Grove, 92.
Lyon, John (1592), founder of
Harrow School, brass, 322.
Lyonsdown, Barnet, 31.
Lyttleton, George, ist Lord (1773),
'Conversion of St. Paul,' at
Wickham, 696.
Lyttleton, Thomas, 2nd Lord (the
Bad), died 1779, 199.
Lytton, Lord. See Bulwer, Sir
Edward Lytton.
Mabuse (Van Gossaert), pictures
by, 3°9> 3IC-
M'Adam, John Loudon (1836;,
the road-maker, lived, 359.
Macandrew, J., residence, 431.
Macandrew, J. J., residence, 550.
Mac Andrew, Mrs., residence, 382
MacArdell, James (i765),engraver,
buried, 286.
Macartney, George Earl of (1806),
* Embassy to Spain,' residence,
no ; buried, 107.
MacCalmont, R., seat, 227.
Macclesfield, Thomas Parker, ist
Earl of, Lord Chancellor (1732),
lived, 288.
"M'Dowell, P. sculpture by, 256.
M 'Geachy, F. Alleyne, residence,
553-
Macintosh, D., residence, 333.
Mackenzie, Ed., gift to British
Orphan Asylum, 557.
Mackintosh, George Gordon, seat,
634-
Mackintosh, Sir James (1832),
tomb, 285.

mapleton lodge.
M'Lean, James, the gentleman
highwayman, executed at Ty
burn, 1750, at Putney, 479.
MacLeary, G., residence, 52.
M'Murray, W., residence, 509.
M'Niven, C, residence, 463. _
Macpherson, Jas. (1796, Ossian),
lived, 478.
M 'Queen, Colonel L., residence,
565.
Maes, N., painting by, 229.
Magdalen Hospital, 591.
Maginn,W., LL.D. (1842), buried,
661.
Magna Charta, signed, 516.
Magna Charta Island, 516, 755.
Magni, statue of the Reading;
Girl, 588.
Main Drainage, Southern Outfall
Stat, 2 ; Northern Outfall Stat.,
23; Crossness, 202, 474 ; Pump
ing Stat., 579; Northern Main
Sewer, 685.
Mall, Chiswick, 105.
Mall, Hammersmith, 273, 277.
Mallet, David (1765), lived, 577.
Mallet du Pan, Jacques (1800),
buried, 504.
Malthus, Thomas Robert, political
economist(i834), birthplace, 152..
Mammalian remains, Thames
Valley, 377 ; Valley of the Lea,
658.
Manchester, Duchess of, lived,
382.
Mandeville, Sir John (1300), birth
place, 525.
Mandey, Venturus, learned brick
layer (1701), mont., 383.
Manning, Cardinal, born, 626.
Manning, Francis, translator of
Theodosius, lived, 605.
Manor House, Abbot's Langley,
3 ; Barnet, 32 ; Little Bookham,
54 ; Bushey, 69 ; Crayford, 123 ;
Ealing, 160; Claremont, 207;
Fawkham, 215; Finchley, 217;
Hadley, 267 ; Heston, 342 ;
High Beech, 343 ; Petersham,
470 ; Pinner, 470 ; Shepperton,
554 ; Sidcup, 557 ; Southall, 559 ;
Stoke d'Abernon, 573 ; Stoke
Poges, 574 ; Streatham, 589 ;
Sunbury, 591 ; Swanscombe,
597 ; Teddington, 605 ; Walton-
on-Thames, 662 ; Woodford>
737 ; Woodmansterne, 739.
Mansfield, Earls of, family monts.,
337-
Mansfield, William Murray Earl
of, Lord Chief Justice (1793),
purchases and enlarges Caen
Wood, 71 ; relics ' from fire of
library ; portrait, 71, 265.
Mansfield, W., 3rd Earl of (1840),
mont., 395.
Mantegna, Andrea, cartoons by,
310.
Manuscript, French, from Barking;
Abbey, 21.
Mapesburg, 699.
Maplescombe, 396.
Mapleton Lodge, 687.

INDEX.

MARBLE hill.

779

MILL HILL HOUSE.

Marble Hill, built by George II.
for Mrs. Howard, Countess of
Suffolk ; Pope and Swift at,
633; residence of Mrs. Fitz
herbert, 633.
Marble Hill, Little, Mrs. Clive at;
taken down, 633.
Marchant, Nathaniel, R.A. (1816),
mural tablet by Flaxman, 575.
Marden Ash House, 459.
Marden Park, 232.
Mare, Thomas de la, Abbot of
St. Albans 1349-96, constructs
painted ceilings of nave and
choir of abbey ch., 530; erects
Gate House, 538 ; his brass, 534.
Margaret's Lodge, St., 383.
Maria, Donna, Queen of Portugal,
lived, 410.
Mariners, 687.
Marjoribanks, F., residence, 69.
Mark Hall, 413.
Markland, Jeremiah, editor of
Euripides (1776), lived, 152 ;
mont, 150.
Mark's House, 513.
Marlborough, Dukeof(i722),house
at St Albans, 525 ; bust, 727.
Marlborough, Sarah Duchess of
(1744), founds almshouses at St.
Albans, 525 ; rebuilds Wimble
don House, 703 ; portrait, 265.
Marlow, William, F.S.A., land-
1 scape painter (1800), lived, 629.
• Marochetti, Baron, memorial statue
of Prince Consort, 723.
Marprelate press, 437.
Marryat, Joseph, M.P., and Mrs.
Marryat seat, 706.
Marryat, Capt F-, novelist (184S),
at school, 186 ; lived, 277, 707.
Marsh, T. C, residence, 609.
Marshal, Edward, monumental
sculpture by, 322.
Marshalls, 331.
Marshes, the Thames, 202.
Martin, John (1854), painting by,
*5i-
Martin, Ray, residence, 215.
Martini-Henry Rifle, manufacture
of, 181 3.
Marvel. Andrew, (Rehearsal
Transprosed, d. 1678) ; his cot
tage at Highgate, 352.
Mary, Queen, born at Greenwich
(1516X250; performs in amasque,
250 ; treaty for her hand, 250 ;
at Hampton Court, 299 ; at
Hunsdon House, 372 ; at Rich
mond, 490 ; at Wanstead, 667 ;
at Oatlands, 688; at Windsor,
714 ; service book with auto
graph, 211 ; mislikes plays and
masques, 327 ; portraits, 2 35, 310.
Mary, Queen of James II. , at
Gravesend, 237.
Mary, Queen of William III.,
founds Greenwich Hospital,
252 ; reviews troops at Houns
low, 370 ; portrait, 265.
Mary Queen of Scots, portraits,
310, 330, 408, 724.
Mary, Queen Dowager of France,

sister of Henry VIII., married,
250.
Mary, Princess, daughter of James
I., died, 570.
Mary, Princess of Orange; daugh
ter of Charles I., portrait, 264.
Mary, Princess of Peck, Village
Homes, 7; at Hatfield, 328.
Mary of Modena, portrait, 307.
Maseres, Francis (1824), Cursitor
Baron of Exchequer, mont., 486.
Masham, Sir Francis, M.P. (1690),
seat, 413; mont., 413.
Masham, Mrs. Abigail, Bed
chamber-woman to Queen Anne
(i73.4)» mont, 413.
Mashiter, Octavius, residence, 5 14.
Masonic Institution for Boys, 625.
Masonic Royal Benevolent Insti
tution, 131.
Master, Rev. William, author of
( Drops of Myrrhe ' (1684),
rector, 738.
Master, C. Hoskin, residence, 463.
Masterman, Edward, residence,
420.
Matilda, Queen of Henry I.,
bridges built by, 113. 579.
Matsys, Quentin, painting by,
727.
Mathews, Charles (the elder, d.
1835), lived, 354; first appearance
on the stage, 505 ; gallery of
dramatic portraits, 354.
Mathews, Charles, lived, 224.
Matthews, C. P., residence, 333.
Matthews, T., residence, 162.
Maudslay, Henry, engineer(i83i),
grave, 740.
Maudslay, Thomas, died (1864),
" IQ-
Maule, Colonel Francis (1829),
mont., 446.
Maule, Rt. Hon. Sir W. H., born,
616.
Maurice, Thomas Indian Anti
quities (1824), curate, 738.
Mawbey, Eliza (1819), mont., go.
May, Hugh, builds Cassiobury
(1677) for the Earl of Essex, 76.
May, W., residence, 120,
May Place, 123.
Mayeme, Sir Theodore (1655),
lived, 383 ; portrait, 310.
Maynard, Sir John, Knt. (1658),
and son (1664), monts., 615.
Maynard, Serjeant (1690), died,
*59-
Maynwaring, Arthur (171 2), lived,
290.
Maypole, the Strand, carried to
Wanstead, 670.
Maze, Hampton Court, 311.
Mead, Dr. W. (1652), tomb, 674.
Mead Lodge, 374.
Meadowbank, Mr. Bishop's ob
servatory, 633.
Meadow Lodge, 633.
Meadows, Sir Philip (1718), lived,
278.
Measom, G. S., residence, 383.
Medical Benevolent College,
Royal, 196.

Medicinal Springs, 4, 14, 98, 196,
280.454, 556, 589, 5g8.
Meeking, C, residence, 488.
Melbourne, Visct. (1848), seat;
died, 326.
Melcombe, George Bubb Dodding-
ton Lord (1762), lived, 276.
Melles, W., residence, 549.
Mellish, William, M. P. , lived, 707.
Melton, Sir John (1640), Keeper
of the Seals for North of Eng
land, mont., 623.
Melvill, Sir J. Cosmo, K.C.B.
(1861), buried, 603.
Melville, Henry Dundas, ist Visct.
(1811), lived, 706, 707.
Mendez, Moses, the wealthy poet
(1758), lived, 436.
Mendip, Lord, lived, 637.
Merchant Seamen's Orphan Asy
lum, 558.
Merchant Seamen's Institution,
the Royal Alfred, 42.
Merchant Taylors' Almshouses,
416.
Merick, John (1749), mont., 452.
Merlin's Cave, 493.
Merry, Sir Thomas (1632), mont.,
657-
Merstham House, 425.
Merton Priory, 426.
Merton, Statutes of, 426.
Merton, Walter de (founder of
Merton College), founds schools
at Maiden (1240), 424; scholar
at, 426.
Metropolitan Convalescent Hos
pital, 663.
Metternich, Prince (i859),portrait,
726.
Metzu, G., painting by, 177.
Meulin, Vander, painting by, 310.
Meyer, James, residence, 177.
Meyer, Jeremiah, R.A. (1789),
buried, 388.
Meyrick, John (father of Sir
Samuel), residence, 226.
Mickleham Hall, 430.
Micklethwaite, Joseph Visct-
(1734), tomb, 267.
Michel Angelo, painting by, 465 ;
drawings by, 729.
Middle Class Grammar School,
I3I-
Middle Park Stud, 171.
Middleton, Alan Broderick, ist
Visct. (1747), family monts., 665.
Middleton Hall, 552.
Middleton, Mrs. ( Windsor Beauty
lived, 383.
Middlesex, Lionel Cranfield, ist
Earl of(i645), portraits. 406, 407.
Mignard, N., portrait by, 727.
Mildred, Mrs., residence, 739.
Miles Down House, 431.
Miles, Dr. Henry, F.R.S. (1763),
minister at, 615.
Miles, J., residence, 32.
Mill, James (1836), lived, 431, 463.
Mill, John Stuart (1873), lived, 463.
Millboard Mills, 154.
Mill End, 509.
Mill Hill House, 27.

780

INDEX.

MILL HILL LODGE.

Mill Hill Lodge, 27.
Miller, Joe (Jest Book), lived and
died (1738), 577.
Miller, Arthur T., residence, 415.
Millfield Lane, Highgate (Poets'
Lane), 354.
Milhcents, i8g.
Milligan, Robert (founder of West
India Docks), lived, 288.
Millington, C. S., residence, 50.
Mills, Sir Charles H., residence,
548.
Mills, Lady, residence, 358.
Mills, P., residence, 549.
Milton, John (i674),lived and wrote
at Chalfont, 82 ; at Harefield,
316 ; at Horton, 365.
Milton, Sara (mother of the poet),
(l637). grave, 366.
Milton Court, 152.
Mimms Park, North, 115.
Minchenden, 560.
Minnes, Sir John, Lord Admiral,
portrait, 264.
Misbourne House, 83.
Mission College, Roman Catholic,
431.
Mistletoe, punishment for gather-
„ ing. 453-
Mitchison, A. W., residence, 591.
Moat House, 341.
Moat Mount, 432.
Moffat, W. B., buildings by, 79,
481, 558.
.Mohun, Lord(i7i2), where buried,
627.
Mola, F., paintings by, 157, 308.
Mole Lodge, 437.
Molesey Grove, 437..
Molesey Hurst, 295.
Molesworth, Miss, residence, 113.
Molino, Nicolo, Venetian Ambas
sador, portrait, 407.
Molins, Sir John, Treasurer to
Edward III., , supposed tomb,
57.5- . *
Molins, Sir Wm. (1425), brass, 575.
Molyneux, Lady Maria, residence,
575-
Molyneux, Saml., Secretary to
George I L, lived; erects Zenith
Sector ; Bradley's Observations
with ; Memorial, 389.
Mompesson, Henry (murdered
1723), tqmb, 593.
Monastery of St Joseph, 354.
Monk, George. See Albemarle.
Monkey (Monken) Mead, scene of
Battle of Barnet, 30, 266.
Monkhams, 737.
Monks of West Sheen, kept toge
ther after suppression, and per
sistence on the Continent, 550.
Monks' Grove, 14.
Monks' Orchard, 6g6.
Monmouth, James Fitzroy, Duke
of (1685), lived, 407 ; portrait,
264.
Monmouth, Robert Carey, ist
Earl of (1631), mont., 506;
death, 507.
Monox-, Sir G. (1543), founds
Grammar School andAlmshouse.

658 ; builds chapel and church
tower ; mont., 657.
Monro, John, M.D. (1791), tomb,
267.
Monson, Lord (1841), house, 228 ;
mausoleum, 229.
Monson, Sir John, portrait, 229.
Montagu, John Duke of (1749),
lived, 501, 575.
Montague, Sir Charles (1625),
lived, 376 ; mont., 22.
Montague (or Mountague), Rich
ard, author of ' New Gag for
an Old Goose,' rector of. 563.
Montague, Lady Mary Wortley
(^62), at Twickenham, 638.
Montague House, residence of
Caroline Princess of Wales, 49.
Montem, the Eton, 212, 558.
Montfort, Simon de (1265), en
camped with Barons, 378.
Montpensier, Due de (1807),
death, 630.
Montreal, 510.
Montrose House, 470.
Monumental slab of Kentish iron,
123.
Moor House, 421.
Moor Park, 506 ; Sir Wm Temple
on grounds and gardens, 507.
Moor Place, 43.
Moore, Rev. Edw., residence, 83.
Moore, John, M.D. ('Zeluco'),
lived, 500; buried (1802), 504.
Moore, Thomas, poet (1852), lived,
364, 443; daughter buried (18 1 7),
3°4-
Moore, Col. Thomas, of Polesden,
, d. J735 ; mont., 53.
Morant's £durt, 97.
Mordaunt' of Avalon, John Visct
(1675), mont., 220.
Morden, Sir John (1708), founder
of Morden College, burial-place;
, statue and portrait, 50.
Morden College, 50.
Morden Park, 232, 438.
More, Sir Thomas, Lord Chancel
lor (1535), portrait, 407; seat, 433.
Mores, Edward Rowe, Antiquary
(1778), lived, 419.
Morgan House, 270.
Morland, George (1804), paintings
by, 77-
Morland, Sir Samuel (1695), lived,
277.
Morley, H, residence, 470.
Morley, Robert, residence, 638.
Moro, Sir Antonio (1581), portraits
by, 614, 727.
Moroni, painting by, 465.
Morphew and Green, church by.
Moms, Capt. Charles, song
writer of the Regency (1838),
lived, 60 ; grave, 43.
Morrison, Sir Charles, the elder
(1619), mont, 678 ; the younger,
mont, 679.
Mortimer, Rev. G. T. W., D.D.
(1871), mont, 294.
Morton, portrait by, 255.
Morton, Charles, M.D. (Librarian

of British Museum), lived, 638 ;
buried (1799), 642.
Moseley, W., buildings by, 615,
Moss, Charles, residence, 571.
Mosse, G. A., residence, 120.
Moteland, 93.
Motion, theEltham (puppet-show),
170.
Mottingham House, 442.
Mounsey, C, residence, 140.
Mount, The, 549.
Mount Ararat, 502.
Mount Clare, 515.
Mount Edgcumbe, Richard Earl
of (1839), mont, 468 ; lived, 633.-
Mount Felix, 662.
Mount House, 267.
Mount Lebanon, 631.
Mount Mascal, 124.
Mount Pleasant (hill at Hornsey),
364.
Mount Pleasant (Wilmington),70o.
Moyle, Robert, Prothonatory of
Com. Pleas (1638), mont, 643.
Moyle, Walter (1660), mont, 643.
Mulberry Cottage, residence of
Grose the antiquary, 667.
Mulgrave House, 224.
Mulgrave, Edmund Earl of (1646),
mont., 274.
Mulgrave, Countess of, residence,
502.
Muncaster, Lord, lived, 382.
Munden, Admiral Sir John (1718),
portrait, 255.
Munster, Count, portrait, 726,
Mural paintings in churches, g,
, 41, 82, 136, 161, 210, 438, 530,
, 547. 577* 683, 695.
Munllo, paintings by, 41, 157, 160,
207.
Murphy, Arthur (1805), resided,
277; mont, 274.
Murray, E. F., bridges by, 663.
Murray, Gen. Sir Henry and
Lady, residence, 706.
Murray, John, residence, 707.
Murray, Dr., Provost of Eton,
mont, 210.
Murray, R. Hay, residence, 70.
Museum, Royal Artillery, Wool
wich, 751.
Music, Royal Military School of,
695.
Myddleton.Sir Hugh (1631), lived,
178, 708.
Myddleton House', 178.
Mvngs, Admiral Sir Christopher
(1656), portrait 255.
Mynne, G. (1581), mont, 341.
Mytens, Daniel, portraits by, 235,
307. 309. 3"i 33°. 407* 408, 727.
Napier, Adml. Sir Charles (1860),
portrait, 255.
Napoleon I., bust, 681.
Napoleon III., when Prince Louis
Napoleon, at Brasted Park, 55 ;
at Camden House, 104 ; death,
104 ; burial-place and tomb, 104 ;
regulations for visiting, 105.
Nash, Edwin, churches by, 124,
594. 598.

INDEX.

781

Nash, John, architect (1835), lived,
733*
Nash Mill, 3.
Naval Asylum, Royal, 2s8 ; King
WilUam IV. *s, 467.
Naval College, Royal, 257.
Naval Museum, 256.
Naval Schools, Royal, 147, 258.
Naval, Female School, Royal, 383.
Navestock Hall, 445.
Neave, Sir Arundel, residence, 514.
Neave, Thomas, residence, 28S.
Neckham,Alexander(ii57 — 1227),
born, 525.
Nelson, Admiral Lord (1805),
visited, 55 ; residence at Mer
ton, 427 ; portraits, 255, 257 ;
sarcophagus, 721 ; bust and
trophy, 726.
Nemours, Duke de, lived, 312.
Nesselrode, Count, portrait, 726.
Nether Hall, remains of, 515.
Nevil, George, Abp. of York
(1476), entertains Edward IV. ;
arrested and fined, 507.
New River, head springs of, 675.
Newall, J. P., residence, 459.
Newcastle, Henry CUnton Duke
of, rebuilds Oatlands, and con
structs grotto, 689.
Newcastle, WiUiam Cavendish
Duke of (1676), portrait, 264.
New Cross, 147.
Newdegate, or Newdigate, family
seat, 315; brasses and monts.,
316.
Newdegate, C.N., M.P., seat, 316.
Newgate Street, 326.
Newland, Abraham, Cashier of
the Bank of England (1807) ;
lived, 83, 443.
Newland Park, 83.
Newman, M., residence, 336.
Newman, T. Harding , D. D. ,
residence, 361.
Newman and BUling, churches by,
50, 453-
, Newport, Lady Diana, portrait,
264.
Newstead, 707.
Newton, Sir Adam, tutor to
Henry Prince of Wales (d.
1629) ; residence, 83 ; mont. , 83.
Newton, Gilbert Stuart, R.A.
(1835)/ mont., 704.
Newton, Sir Isaae (1727), por
traits, 311, 408.
Nicholas, Sir Edward, Secretary
of State to Charles I., lived,
610.
Nichols, John Bowyer, F.S.A
(1863), lived, 5.
Nickalls, T. , residence, 455.
Nicoll, Thomas, residence, 682.
Nixon, Francis (1768), mont., 427.
Noad, R. Innes, residence, 8.
Noad, R. J., residence, 92.
Noak Hill, 514.
Noble, M. (1876), sculpture by,
474. 587.
Noel, Hon. Mrs., residence, 565.
Nollekens, Joseph (1823), mont.
by, 147 ; takes cast of Pitt when

dead, 478 ; popularity of his bust
of Pitt, 478.
Nonsuch Park, 448.
Norbiton, 403.
Norbury, 429.
Norbury, Sir John, erects chantry
chapel, 1520; mont., 572.
Norden, John (1626), lived. 226;
surveyed Windsor Castle and
Park, 714.
Norfolk, Thomas Howard, 3rd
Duke of (1554), portraits, 362,
737,
Norfolk, Henry, 6th Duke of
(i684),builds Ham House, Wey
bridge, 691.
Nork Park, 10.
North Cray Place, 124.
North End, Finchley, 218.
North End, Hampstead, 289.
North End House, Hampstead,
289.
North End House, Twickenham,
639-
North Hyde, 452.
North, Frederick Lord, Earl of
Guildford (i792),Prime Minister,
at the Lodge, Bushey Park, 69 ;
stopped by highwaymen on
Hounslow Heath, 370.
North Mimms Park, 432.
North Surrey Industrial School, 13.
North Woolwich Gardens, 754.
Northall, Secretary of the Trea
sury, and friend of Pitt, killed
by highwaymen (1776), 370.
Northampton, Henry Howard
Earl of (1614), founds College,
262 ; mont, 262.
Northampton, James Compton,
5th Earl of, portrait, 407.
Northampton, Marchioness of,
portrait, 587.
Northaw House, 44^.
Northey, E. J., residence, 199.
Northey, Lieut. -Col. W. Brook,
residence, 549.
Northumberland, Algernon Percy,
10th Earl of (1668), portraits,
=35, 255, 264, 330 ; alters
Syon House, employing Inigo
Jones as his architect, 600.
Northumberland, Duke of, seat,
600.
Northumberland, Duchess Dow
ager of, residence, 502.
Northwood, 516.
Northwood Hall, 516.
Northwood House, 516.
Norton, Abbot Roger de (1290),
heart buried at St. Albans, 536.
Norton, D., residence, 516.
Norton, J., church by, 218.
Norton, Sir Gregory (1526), buried,
491.
Norton, Messrs., College by, 561.
Norton, Mrs. Jas., residence, 8.
Norton, Hon. Mrs., at Boyle
Farm, 149.
Norwich, Charles Goring Earl of,
(1670), mont., 419.
Norwood House, 452.
Norwood Lodge, 452.

Nott, Major-Gen. F. P., residence,
39 <¦
Nottingham, Charles Howard
Earl of (Armada, d. 1624), por
trait, 255.
Nottingham, Heneage Finch, Earl
of (1682), portrait, 235.
Noviomagus, site of, 386.
Noy, Attorney-Gen., lived and
(1634) buried, 57.
Nunnery Farm, site of a Bene
dictine nunnery, 94.
Nuns of Syon, migrate after Sup
pression ; their curious history,
379-
Nurseries : Paul's, Cheshunt, 95 ;
Protheroe's, Leytonstone, 420 ;
Turner's, Slough, 557.
Nursery, Royal, at Kew, 390.
Nutfield Court, 455.
Nutfield Priory, 455.
Nutwood Lodge, 229.
Nye, Philip (1672), lived; his
Lord's day rides to town, 4.
Nyn Park, 449.
Oak HiU, 510.
Oak Hill Park, 32.
Oak Place, 644.
Oak, Queen Victoria's, 733.
Oakfield, 486.
Oakhurst, 682.
Oakington Park, 682.
Oakmere, 474.
Oaks, boundary, 7, 453.
Oaks, great, 7, 266, 331, 409, 465,
560, 567, 673, 733.
Oaks, Queen Elizabeth's, 38, 331.
Oaks, Woodmansterne, fete cham
petre at ; Maid of the ; origin of
the race so named, 738.
Oaks, The, 659.
Oatlands Park Hotel, 691.
Oatlands St. Mary, 663.
Obelisks : to George III., 83 ; Ord
nance Survey, for Meridian of
Greenwich, 101 ; Barnet, 267 ;
Putney, 479. (
Observatories : Royal, Greenwich,
259; Magnetic and Meteoro
logical, Kew, 261, 394, 494 ;
Leyton, 419 ; Mr. Bishop's,
Twickenham, 633.
Observatory, the Sheen, '550.
Ockshot, 573.
Offa, King of the Mercians, de
feats Men of Kent, 462 ; his
vision, 519 ; builds church and
monastery over the relics of St.
Alban, 520.
Officers ofthe Army, Royal School
for Daughters of, 511.
Ogle, Admiral Sir Chaloner, Com
mander of the Fleet (1750),
mont, 641.
Oglethorpe, Gen. James Edward,
founder of colony of Georgia,
jived and died (1785), 122.
O'Keefe, John, dramatic author
(1833), lived, 605.
O'Kelley, Dennis, owner of the
racehorse ' Eclipse,' lived and
buried (1788), 74

782

INDEX.

OLD OAK COMMON.

PEMBROKE,

Old Oak Common, 4.
Old Park, Enfield, 175.
Oldenburg, Henry, Secretary to
Royal Society, buried (1677),
85.
Oldfield, Dr., minister at, 615.
Oldham, John, poet (1683), usher
at, 130.
Oldmixon, John, the historian,
buried (1742), 159.
Oliver's Mount, 496.
Ongar Castle, 458.
Ongar Hill, 8.
Onslow, Arthur, Speaker of House
of Commons, lived, 149.
Onslow, Mrs., portrait, 362.
Opie, John, R. A. (1807), portrait
by, 255.
Orange Court, 154.
Orange, Prince of, at Hampton
Court, 303.
Orange, WiUiam, Prince of, por
trait, 726.
Orchises, wild, Boxhill, 55 ; Dart
ford, 137.
Organ by Jordan, 220 ; by Father
Schmidt, 660.
Organ, Handel's, 566.
Orleans House, Twickenham, 629 ;
residence of Louis Philippe when
Due d'Orleans ; and of Due
d'Aumale, 630.
Orme, Robert, historian of India,
(1801), mont., 158.
Ormond, James, Duke of (1745),
holds ' Opposition Court ' at
Richmond Lodge, 493.
Orphanages : Fatherless Children,
Reedham, 79 ; National, 270 ;
St. Mary's, Roman Catholic,
342 ; Alexandra, 365 ; Female
Orphan Home, 509 ; British,
557 ; Infant, 558 ; Merchant
Seamen's, 558 ; Metropolitan
Police, 642 ; London, 679.
Osborne Park, 474.
Osidge House, 560.
Ossory, Anne Hyde Countess of.
portrait, 265.
Ostade, paintings by, 156, 157, 408
Osterley Park, 59.
Otes, residence of the Mashams ;
Locke died at, 413.
Ottershaw Park, 8.
Otter's Pool, 10.
Otway, Thomas, dramatic poet
(1685), portrait, 408.
Ottway, Gen. Charles (1764),
mont., 698.
Ouseley, Sir Gore (1844), mont,
34i-
OverofF, General, portrait, 726.
Owen, Dr. John, died (1633), 159.
Owen, Prof. Richard, residence,
496.
Owen, W., R.A. (1825), portrait
by, 255.
Ownsted, John, servant to Queen
Elizabeth (1600), mont., 546.
Oxenham, H., residence, 358.
Oxford Edward Russell Earl of
(1727), portrait, 255.
Oxhey, 680.

Oxhey Place, seat of the Heydons,
680.
Packe, Major R. C, killed at
Waterloo, mont., 720.
Padua, John of, not the architect
of Hatfield House, 328.
Paget, Lord Alfred, residence, 69.
Paget, James, Baron of the Ex
chequer (1638), buried, 623.
Pagoda, Kew, 394.
Paine, J. M., residence, 8.
Paine, James, archt. (1789), lived,
8 ; bridges by, 92, 391, 663 ;
houses, 326, 505, 514.
Paine, Richard, Gentlemen Usher
to Henry VIII. and 4 following
monarchs (1606), mont., 698.
Pains Hill, 113.
Palasologus, Emperor Manuel, met
by Henry IV., 46.
Palewell Lodge, 550.
Pallavicine, Horatio (1648), mont,
458.. .
Pallavicine, Jane, daughter of
Lord Oliver CromweU (1637),
mont, 458.
Pallett, R. H. C, residence, 608.
Palliser, Admiral Sir Hugh, d.
1796, mont., 82.
Palm-houses, Kew^ 392.
Palma, Jacopo, painting by, 307.
Palmer, Sir Geoffrey, Attorney-
Gen, (d. 1670), 290; portrait, 265.
Palmerston, Henry, 1st Visct.,
lived, 550.
Palmerston, Henry John, 3rd
Visct. (1865), lived, 326 ; por
trait, 587.
Paper Mills, first in England, 137;
of Messrs. Joynson, 125 ; Saun
ders, 135 ; Spalding, 367 ; Dick
enson, 397, 506 ; M Murray,
506, 664 ; Austin, 506 ; Wilmot,
556; Ibetson, 570; T. H. Saun
ders, 595.
Papworth, J. B. , house by, 590.
Paradise Lost, MS. of, 36.
Paris, Comte de, at Twickenham,
631.
Park Cottage, 550.
Park Farm House, 555.
Park Field, 358.
Park Gate, 670.
Park Hill House, 590.
Park House, Hayes, 336 ; Ruislip,
515 ; Shenfield, 552 ; Southend,
Lewisham, 418 ; Wanstead, 670.
Park, Sir James Allan, d. 1838,
mont., 704.
Park Point, 97.
Parker, Hammond, residence, 474.
Parker, Sir H. W., residence, 502.
Parker, Admiral Sir Hyde (1783),
portrait, 255.
Parkfield, 474.
Parkhurst, John (Greek and Heb.
Lexicons, d. 1797), mont, 196.
Parkwood House, 596.
Parliament Hill, 356.
Parliament, Army of, at Brent
ford, 56 ; Fulham, Putney, and
Turnham Green, 219, 476.

Parliamentary franchise of one
voter, 228.
Parmigiano, _ paintings by, 309,
408 ; drawings, 730.
Parndon Hall, 466.
Parnels, R., residence, 515.
Parr, Catherine, at Hampton
Court, 298 : lived, 313.
Parr, Dr. Saml. (1825), kept schocfl,
5^4- .
Parry, Sir Edward, lived, 289.
Parson's Green, 225.
Parsons, James, M.D. (1770),
buried, 337.
Parsons, Wm., comedian, d. 1795,
buried, 416.
Partridge, John, almanac maker,
persecution by Swift and Steele ;
buried(i7i5), 441.
Pastorini, painting by, 429.
Patch Park, 41.
Paterson, Miss, residence, 125.
Paton, R., paintings by, 256, 311.
Patriotic Asylum, Royal, 665.
Patteson Court, 455.
Paul, Abbot (1077-93), buUds St.
Albans Abbey ch., 526.
Paul's Rose Nurseries, 95, 656.
Paull, J., duel with Sir Francis
Burdett, 705.
Pawnbrokers' Institute, 685.
Pawson, J. F., residence, 431.
Paxton, Sir Joseph (1865), lived,
599 ; under-gardener, 703.
Payne, George, killed in duel, 705.
Payne, Joseph, "Judge" (1870),
lived, 353.
Payne, Thos., bookseller, buried
(i799), 217.
Peacham, Henry (Complete Gen
tleman, circ. 1640), birthplace,
,434-
Pearce, E., building by, 625.
Pearce, S., portrait by, 255.
Pearce» Zacnary, Bp. of Rochester,
mont, 61 ; educated, and died
(i774). 160-
Pearson, Sir Edward, residence,
707.
Pearson, J. L., churches by, 614,
692.
Peche, Sir John (1522), mont,
423-
Peckham, Abp., died (1292), 439.
Peckham, Sir Edm. (1564), mont,
140.
Peckham, Sir Robert, Privy Coun
cillor to Queen Mary (d. 1569),
mont, 410.
Peeble Combe, 659.
Peek, Sir H. W., Bart., M.P.,
residence, 706.
Peel, General, seat, 633.
Pelagian Conference, 519.
Pemberton, Chief Justice Sir
Francis (1625-97), born, 525.
Pemberton, R., residence, 514.
Pembroke and Montgomery, Philip
Earl of (1650), portrait, 235, 264.
Pembroke, Henry Herbert, 2nd
Earl of (1601), portrait, 230.
Pembroke, Wm. Herbert, 3rd Earl
of (1630), portraits, 264, 406.

INDEX.

783

PEMBROKE.

Pembroke (architect), Earl of, de
signs Wimbledon House, 703.
Pembroke, Countess of, lived, 496.
Pembroke Lodge, Richmond Park,
496.
Pen Ponds, 497.
Pendell, or Pendhill, 52.
Pendell Court, 52.
Pengelly House, 94.
Penitentiary, London Diocesan,
354 ; Kent, 577.
Penn family own Stoke Manor,
574-
Penn, J., rebuilds Stoke Manor
House ; erects cenotaph to
Gray, and column to Coke, 574.
Penn, Mrs. Sebel, nurse to Ed
ward VI., mont., 293.
Penn, Adml. Sir William (1670),
lived, 670 ; portrait, 255.
Penn, William, founder of Penn
sylvania, educated, 98 ; lived,
605 ; buried (1718), 83.
Penrhyn, E. H. L. , residence, 550.
People's Garden. Acton, 5.
Pepys, Sir Lucas, lived, 431.
Pepys, Samuel, visits Ashtead,
17 ; Barn Elms, 25 ; Barnet
Wells, 30; Deptford, 142; Evelyn
at Saye's Court, 144; Epping,
190; Epsom Wells, 196 ; Hat
field, 331 ; Swakeley, 375 i Non
such, 447 ; Dagnams, 514;
Walthamstow, 656; Wanstead,
668 ; as Clerk of the Acts at
Woolwich Dockyard, 741 ; died
(1703) at Clapham, in.
Perceval, Rt Hon. Spencer (18 12),
lived, 160, 280; mont., 84.
Perceval, Miss, residence, 160.
Percy Lodge, 487.
Perks, Thomas, residence, 659.
Perrers, Alice, lived, 277.
Perrina Lodge, 556.
Perrott, George, Baron ofthe Ex
chequer (1780), mont., 410.
Perry, James (d. 1821), mont.
erected by Fox Club, 704.
Perry, Capt, closes Dagenham
breach, 133.
Perry Oaks, 570.
Perryfield, 463.
Perryn, Sir Richard, d. 1803,
mont, 641.
Persia, Shah of, at Gravesend,
238 *, visits Virginia Water, 649.
Perugino, painting by, 464.
Peter the Great of Russia at Dept
ford, 143 ; hires Saye's Court ;
his conduct there, 145 ; portrait,
307, 330.
Peterborough, Charles Mordaunt
Earl 0^1735), at Parson's Green;
his guests, 225 ; assists Pope in
his gardening, 635.
Peterborough House, 225.
Petersham, Wm. Stanhope, ist
Visct, house built for, 469.
Petersham House, 47°-
Petersham Lodge burned; re
built ; pulled down, 469-
Petitot,J.(i69i), enamels by, 178.
Petley, C. R. C, residence, 510.

Peto, Sir Morton, Bart, residence,
97-
Petre, Lord, seat ; George III. at,
362.
Petre, Hon. F., residence, 682.
Petre, Sir Wm., portrait 362.
Pett, Peter, navy shipwright
(1652), mont., 146.
Phelps, A. J., church by, 402.
Phelps, C. J., residence, 374.
Philanthropic Soc, Reformatory
Farm, 481.
Philip I., King of Castile, enter
tained at Richmond, 489.
Philip II. of Spain, husband of Q.
Mary, at Hampton Court, 299 ;
Oatlands, 688 ; Windsor, 714.
Philip IV. of Spain, portraits, 307,
727.
Philipott, Thos., topographer of
Kent (1682), buried, 262.
Philipps, Fabian, the Loyalist, d.
1690, buried, 643.
Philipps, Fabian, the younger, d.
1658, mont., 643.
Phillips, Augustine, Shakspeare's
fellow-actor (1605), lived, 442.
Phillips, Aid. Sir Benj. S., resi
dence, 687.
Phillips,Rev. F. P., residence, 573.
Phillips, Thos., R.A. (1845), por
trait by, 409.
Phipps, C. J., F.S.A., building by,
498.
Pickersgill, H. W..R.A, portraits
by, 255, 726.
Pickhurst, 334.
Picton, Sir Thos. (1815), portrait,
726.
Pigott, Nathaniel, d. 1737, mont.
with insc. by Pope, 641.
Pilgrims', Aged, Asylum, 365.
Pilgrims, Canterbury, at Reigate,
483 ; at West Thurrock, 610 ;
chapel at Brentwood, 59, 682 ;
to the Holy Cross at Waltham
Abbey, 654 ; to Our Lady of
Willesden, 699.
Pilgrims' Hall, 682.
Pilgrims' Hatch, 682.
Pilgrims' Road, old British track
way, 44, 97, 385, 603.
Pinner Hill, 470.
Pinner Park, 470.
Pinner Place, 470.
Pinner Wood House, 470.
Piozzi, Mrs. Hester Lynch (1821),
lived, 590.
Pistrucci, Benedetto, medallist,
lived, and (1855) died, 89.
Pitt, George Morton, lived, 630.
Pitt, WiUiam, see Chatham, Earl
of.
Pitt, William, born and baptized
at Hayes, 334 ; designs saloon
for Henry Thornton, in ; lived,
387 ; arranges with Wilberforce
measure for Abolition of Slave
Trade, 387 ; the oak and me
morial, 388 ; residence ; death
(1806) ; cast taken by Nollekens,
478; duel with William Tierney,
M.P., 478; at Wickham, 696;

at Wimbledon. 706 ; portrait,
,235-
Pius VII., portrait, 726.
Plaistow Hall, 6^.
Plashet, 162.
Plashet House, 162.
Plate, silver, at Windsor Castle,
728.
Platoff, Count, portrait, 726.
Plucknett, J. P., residence, 217.
Plumbe, R., church by, 579.
Pochin, H. D., residence, 26.
Pocock, N., painting by, 256.
Pocock, W. F., church by, 649.
Pococke, Sir George, alters Or
leans House, 630.
Pointers, 113.
Pointer's Grove, 626.
Pointz family seat, chapel, monts.
and memorials, 456.
Pole, Cardinal, lived, 550.
Polesden, 53.
Polhill, Charles, mont, 463.
Police Orphanage, 642.
Pollock, Sir F., Bart, lived, 41.
Pollock, Lady, residence, 41.
Pompadour, Madame, portrait,3og.
Ponders End, 181.
Poniatowski, Joseph Michel Xa
vier Fran^ais, Prince (1873),
buried, 105.
Ponsbourne Park, 326.
Pontes, Roman station, 561.
Pope, Alexander, lived with pa
rents at Chiswick, 106 ; father
dies (1717), 107 ; mont to father
and mother, 640; at Lord Boling-
broke's, 139 ; at Ham Walks,
273 ; leases villa at Twicken
ham ; dies (1744), 636; mont,
640 ; grave opened, 641.
Pope's Villa, purchase and im
provements ; contents, 634 : gar
dens laid out by Bridgman and
Kent ; the grotto, 635 ; sold to
Sir W. Stanhope, 636 ; taken
down and new house built by
Baroness Howe ; her parties,
637 ; her house taken down and
present Pope's Villa built, 637.
Pope, Sir Thomas (1559), has cus
tody of Princess Elizabeth at
Hatfield, 327 ; at Tittenhanger,
421.
Popes, 326.
Popham, Lord Chief Justice, resi
dent at Friern Barnet in 1592,
32-
Poplar, Lombardy, first planted in
England, 83.
Pordenone, painting by, 307.
Porte, Peter de la, director of
South Sea Company, lived, 662.
Porter, Anna Maria (1832) and
Jane (1850), lived with their mo
ther, 204.
Porter, Sir R. Ker(i842), presents
altarpiece of his own painting
to Esher church, 204.
Porter, Walsh, residence, 223.
Porters, 553.
Porteus, Bp. Beilby, lived, planted
trees in churchyard, and buried

784

PORTLAND.

(1808), 593 ; portrait, 222 ; mont.,
221.
Portland, Richard Weston Earl
gf, stately living at Roehampton,
510 ; portraits, 235, 264.
Portland, Jerome Weston, 2nd
Earl of (1662), mont, 660.
Portman, Sir Hugh, at Kew, 389.
Portmore, Earl of, family seat,
691 ; monts., 692.
Portnal Park, 189.
Portugal, Donna Maria, Queen of,
lived, 410.
Potter, E,, seat, 207.
Potter Thomas, (1611), mont, 686.
Potterells, 433.
Potter's Park, 8.
Pottery Works : at Fulham, 227 ;
Mortlake, 440.
Poulet Lodge, 634.
Poulton, Francis (1642), mont., 641.
Pound, Dr. James (1724), rector,
669 ; observatory : erects large
telescope, with Strand Maypole
for support, 670.
Poussin, Gaspar, paintings by, 157,
727.
Poussin, Nicolas, paintings by,
J57« 4^5 ; drawings by, 730.
Powell, portraits by, 587.
Powell, Susanna (1630), mont, 665.
Powell, William, the Harmonious
Blacksmith, (17S0), parish clerk ;
forge ; grave, 567.
Power, Fred., residence, 368.
Powis, C, residence, 69.
Powis Lodge, 69.
Pownall, H., buildings by, 86, 287,
69S.
Poyle, 570.
Praed, Winthrop Mackworth, resi
dence, 430.
Pratt, Chief Justice Sir John
(1724), mont. , 547.
Pratt, Ladies, residence, 548.
Premonstratensian Monastery
founded, 466.
Prescott, Lady, residence, 95.
Prescott, George, buys Theobalds,
destroys what remained of pa
lace, and builds Theobalds Park
(1765-70), 607.
Presbyterian Church, founded
1572, the first in England, 665.
Press, for printing the Martin Mar-
prelate pamphlets, 437. _
Prestwich, Prof, residence, 556.
Prevost, Major-Gen. Augustin
(1786), tomb, 31.
Price, George Ralph, residence,
361.
Price, Lieut. -Col., residence, 502.
Price, Dr. Richard (1 791), minister
at, 166.
Price, Sir Rose, Bart., lived, 502.
Priestley, Mrs., residence, 83.
Priests, 514.
Princess Louise Home for Young
Girls, 671.
Printers' Pension Society Asylum,
625.
Printing Press, one of first, set up
at St. Albans (1480), 522.

INDEX.

Priory of the Holy Trinity, Houn
slow, 369 ; Dominican, at King's
Langley, 397 ; Augustinian, at
Latton, 413*; atTandridge, 602 :
Benedictine, at Lewisham, 417.
Priory, The, Hadley, 267 ; Frog-.
nal, 288 ; Leatherhead, 415 ;
Reigate, 484; Romford, 514;
Old Windsor, 735.
Pritchard, Mrs. Hannah, actress
(1768), lived, 634.
Pritchett, John, Bp. of Gloucester
(1680), mont., 317.
Proverbs, Local : Tottenham, 620 ;
Ware and Wade's Mill, 675 ;
Woolwich, 739.
Provosts of Eton, their dignity,
211 ; portraits, 211.
Prowett, R., residence, no.
Pryor's Bank, 223.
Puckering, Sir John, Lord Keeper,
visited by Queen Elizabeth, 389.
Puckridge, F., residence, 737.
Puget, John (1805), mont by
Bacon, 626.
Pugin, F. Welby, buildings by, 275,
3*3-
Puleston, J. H, residence, 232.
Pullman, J., residence, no.
Pulteney, William Earl of Bath
(1764), lived, 382.
Punchard, W. H., residence, 634.
Purchas, Samuel (1628), wrote 'Pil
grims' at, 416.
Purley Lodge, 79.
Purnish, 189.
Purser's Cross .highwayman buried
at, 225.
Purvey. Wm. , Auditor of the
Duchy of Lancaster (161 7),
tomb, 754.
Putney Park, 510.
Pynacles, 565.
Pyne, J. B., landscape painter
(1870), lived, 450.
Pyrgo, 333.
Quarles, Francis (1644), 'Book
of Emblems,' born at, 514 ;
family seat, 514.
Quebec House, early residence of
Gen. Wolfe, 686.
Queen's Lodge, 390.
Queensbury, Catherine Hyde
Duchess of, (1777) residence,
269, 273 ; portrait , 265.
Queensbury, Duke of (Old Q., d.
1810), at Richmond, 500.
Queensbury House, 500.
Radcliffe, John, M.D., founder
of Library, residence and death
(1714), 75 ; at Hammersmith,
277.
Radnor House, 637.
Radstock, Lord (i82s),mont., 445.
Radstock, Lord, seat, 550.
Raffles, Sir Thomas Stamford
(1826); died, 432.
Ragman's Castle, residence of Lady
Falkland ; of John Duke of
Montague, and of Dowager
Lady Pembroke ; purchased and

improved by Mrs. Pritchard ;
occupied by Earl of- Cholmonde
ley ; Sir C. Warwick Bamfield,
by George Hardinge, Jeremiah
Dyson, etc. ; taken down by
Lord Kilmorey, 634.
Railway, Surrey Iron, first in S.
of England, 426".
Raimbach, Abraham (1843), en
graver, buried, 337.
Raleigh, Sir Walter, visited at
Beddington, 38 ; residences,
185, 436; portraits-, 255, 407.
Ralph, James (1762), buried, 107.
Ramryge, Abbot Thomas (1524),
builds chantry chapel at St.
Albans, 527 ; chantry, 534.
Ramsay, Allan (1784), portraits by,.
406, 588.
Randall Park, 415.
Ranelagh, Margaret Cecil Coun
tess of (1728), Duried, 106.
Ranelagh House; 224.
Ranger's Lodge, Greenwich Park,
49.
Ranmore Common, 153.
Raphael, paintings by, 151, 177,
228, 310, 464 ; cabinet, and
drawings, 729.
Ravensbourne, source of, 386.
Ravensbourne, 388.
Ravensbury Park, 438.
Ravenscroft, 277.
Ravenscroft, James, founds Jesus
Hospital. 29.
Ravenscroft, Thos. (1630), mont,
29.
Ravenswood, 696.
Ravensworth, Earl of, seat, 224.
Ravensworth House, 224.
Rawdon House, Hoddesdon, 358.
Rawlinson, Sir W. (1703), mont,
ti 337"
Ray House, 737.
Raymond, Lord Chief Justice
(1732), mont. , 2.
Raynton, Sir Nicholas (1646),
mont., 180.
Read, Thomas, residence. 737.
Reading Girl, statue of, 588.
Reay, Martha (murdered by Rev.
T. Hackman, 1779), buried, 168.
Redland, 687.
Redman, J. B., pier built by, 242.
Reed, Dr. Andrew (1862), founded
asylums, 79, 482.
Reed, Isaac (1807), Shakspeare
Commentator, buried, 12.
Reedham, Asylum for Fatherless
Children, 79.
Reeve.Chief Justice (1735), mont,
709.
Reeves, J. R., residence, 707.
Reformatory, Hertfordshire, 42.
Reichmann , portrait by, 726.
Rembrandt, paintings by, 156, 157.
4^5. 727-
Remingham House, 755.
Rennie, G. , bridge by, 562.
Rennie, Sir John, works at Wool
wich, 742.
Repton Cottage, 514.
Repton, Humphrey (landscape

INDEX.

785

RESERVOIRS.

ROUSSEAU.

gardener), lived and died (1818),
5M- .
Reservoirs ; New River Company,
92 ; Regent's Canal Co., Ruis
Up, 515 : Grand Junction Canal
Co., Elstree, 168 ; Kingsbury,
395 ; East London, 658.
Rey, George (£. James LX mont,
364-
Reynardson, Aid. Abraham, seat,
619 ; mansion converted into
Friends' boarding-school; pulled
down, 619.
Reynardson, Nicholas, founds
. almshouses, 624.
Reynolds, Abp., died (1327), 439.
Reynolds, Barclay, residence, 737.
Reynolds, Sir Joshua (1792), house
on Richmond Hill, 498; pictures
by, 17, 71. 77. r5r» 156, i57» 178,
229, 235, 255, 256, 329; 330, 407,
408, 409,, 411, 462, 583, 586, 587,
5S8, 590, 602.
Rhododendrons at Deepdene, 152.
Ricardo, F. , residence, 735.
Ricardo, Henry, residence, 385.
Ricardo, Percy, residence, 70.
Ricci, Sebastian, paintings by,
3*7j 308.
Rich, Robert, Earl of Warwick
and Holland (1658), portrait by
Vandyck, 256.
Rich, John, first English harle
quin (1761), mont, 357.
Rich, Lord Chancellor, summer
residence ; entertained Queen
Mary and Elizabeth, 667.
Richard II. at Eltham, 169 ; at
Havering, 332 ; kept Christmas
at King's Langley ; buried, but
corpse removed, 396 ; at Rich
mond, 489 ; at Windsor Castle,
712.
Richards, Hon. M., Surveyor-
General of the Ordnance (1721),
mont, 84.
Richardson, F., -seat, 430.
Richardson, Jonathan (i745),paint-
ings by, 255, 465.
Richardson, Samuel (novelist) ,
resided j died (1761), 226 ; wrote
' Clarissa Harlowe,"" 450.
Richelieu, Due de, portrait, 726.
Richings Park, 488.
Richmond, James Stuart Duke of
(1655), portrait, 264.
Richmond, Mary Duchess of, por
trait, 725.
Richmond Hill, Lass of, 499 ; view
from, 498.
Richmond Theatre, celebrated
players at, 505 ; Edmund Kean,
lessee, played at ; died at, 505.
Richmonds, now Richmond
House, "634.
Richter, H., painting by, 262.
Rickards, E. H., residence, 154.
Rickma-nsworth Park, 509.
Ridgway, 707.
Riding House, the Royal, Wind
sor, 730.
Ridley, Bp. (1555"), portrait, 222;
at Windsor, 714.

Rifle Association, National, at
Wimbledon, 705.
Rifle, Martini -Henry, manufac
ture, Enfield, 183 ; cap factory,
Woolwich, 744 ; bullet factory,
^745-
Rifles, early, 751.
Ripley, Thomas, architect (1758),
buried, 294.
Ritchie, H., residence, 610.
Riverhead House, 510.
Riverhill House, 549.
Riversdale, 634.
Robin Hood, 403.
Robins, E. C, building by, 242.
Robinson, Anastasia (Countess
Peterborough, 1750), lived, 225,
Robinson, Anthony G. , residence,
676.
Robinson, Bp. (1723), mont, 221.
Robinson, Elizabeth (1652), mont,
552-
Robinson, Mrs., residence, 342.
Robmson, Mrs. Mary (Perdita),
residence and death (1800), 189 ;
tomb, 734.
Roche, Henry Count de la, Bas
tard of Burgundy, reception by
Garter King at Arms and
citizens of London, 237.
Rochester, former residence of
Bishops of, 62.
Rochester, Jane Countess of,
portrait, 265.
Rochester, Joseph Cotton Wigram,
Bishop of (1867), mont, 413.
Rochester Lawrence, Earl and
Countess of, portraits, 265.
Rochford, Earls of, first title of
Baron Enfield from, 172.
Rockhill, 599.
Rockingham, Charles W. W. ,
Marquis of, lived and died (1782),
706.
Rodney, George Brydges, Admiral
Lord, (1792) portrait, 255.
Roe, Sir Thomas, oriental tra
veller and ambassador, birth
place, 419 ; owns manor ; buried
(1644), 736.
Roehampton House, 51X.
Roehampton Park, 511.
Rogers, John, residence, 644.
Rogers, J, Thornton, residence,
549-
Rogers, Samuel, poet (1855), at
Hampstead, 289 ; tablet and
tomb, 364.
Rokeby, Lord, residence, 2.
Roldham, Sire Thos. de, mont.,
455-
RoUs Park, 98.
Romain, G., residence, 735.
Roman and Romano-British re
mains, 14, *7j 23> 37, 46> 5?> 96>
318, 126, 149, 161, (Sulloniaca;)
163, 228, 229, 243, 268, 279, 359,
366, 376, 385, 388, 394, 398, 418,
455, 54i, 543. 544, 555. 559* 5^5,
614, 650, 659, 663, 667, 674, 735.
Roman theatre discovered on
site of Verulamium, 544.
Roman tiles used for buUding St

Albans Abbey church, 528 ;
St. Michael Church, 537: St
Stephen's, 541 ; character of
those of Verulamium, 541.
Roman wall of Verulamium traced,
S4i-
Romano, Giulio, paintings by,
308.
Romelands, 655.
Romney„ George (1802), portraits
by, 255, 256 ; lived, 284.
Ronaldson, Thomas, residence,
595-
Rook, Robeit (1485), tomb, 684.
Rook's Nest, 603.
Rooke, Admiral Sir George
(1709), portrait, 255.
Rookery, The, 125.
Roper, Margaret, daughter of Sir
Thomas More, lived, 172; por
trait, 406.
Ropers, Great, 682.
Ros, Sir George Manners, Lord
(1513), mont., 720.
Rosa, Salvator, paintings by, 156,
308, 465, 602.
Rose, Edward (1653), mont., with
rose trees, at Barnes, 27.
Rose, Wm., LL.D., translator
of Sallust, kept school, and
buried (1786), 107.
Rosedale House (the poet- Thorn
son's), 502.
Rosoman, Thos. , proprietor of
Sadler's Wells Theatre (1782),
buried, 293.
Ross, George, friend of the poet
Thomson, lived, 502.
Ross, Admiral Sir James Clark
(5862), portrait, 256.
Ross, W. Munro, residence, 576.
Ross, Sir W. C, R.A. (miniature
painter, d. i860), born, 647.
Rossi, J. C. F., R.A. (1839), sculp
ture by, 574.
Rosslyn, Alexander Wedderbum,
Earl of(iSo5), lived, 188, 288,
576.
Rosslyn House, 288.
Rostock, Mrs., residence, 659.
Rotchetts, 68 r.
Rotheram, Lady Katherine (1625),
mont, 679.
Rothschild, Baroness Alphonse de,
portrait, 587.
Rothschild, Baron Lionel, M.P.,
seat, 160.
Rothschild, Sir Anthony de (1876),
buried, 699.
Rothschild, Baron Meyer de (1874),
buried, 699.
Rothschild family mausoleum, 685.
Rotunda, Woolwich, 751.
Roubiliac, Louis Francis (1762),
sculpture by, 294, 341, 660.
Roumieu, R. L., church by, 515.
Round Oak, 189.
Round Tower, Windsor Castle, the
building of, 722.
Rous, Francis (1659), Puritan
Provost of Eton, portrait, 211 ;
mont., 21a
Rousseau, J. J. (1778), lives, and
50

786

INDEX.

learns English at grocer's shop,
Chiswick, 107.
Rowan, WiUiam, K. G. (1767),
mont. , 503.
Rowe, J., residence, 288.
Rowe, Nicholas, translator of
Lucan (1718), scholar at, 348.
Roxeth, 324.
Roxford, 341.
Royal Lodge, Windsor, 732.
Royal Patriotic Asylum, 665.
Rubens, P. P., paintings by, 77,
T56, 177, 229, 310, 406, 681 ; the
Rubens Room at Windsor
Castle, 727 : ceiling, 462 ; por
trait, 727 ; at Greenwich, 251.
Ruckholt House, 419.
Ruding, Rogers (Annals of the
Coinage, d. 1820), vicar, 424.
Rugendas, paintings by, 306.
Ruislip Park, 515.
Rumbold, Wm. (1667), mont., 221.
Runnimede House, 735.
Runnimede Park, 189.
Rupert, "Prince, defeats Parlia
mentary forces at Brentford,
56 ; encamped at Turnham
Green, 627 ; in command at
Woolwich, 741 ; portrait, 255.
Rush, W., residence, 452.
Rushey Green, 418.
Russell, Earl, residence, 496 ;
portrait, 587.
Russell of Thornaugh, Wm. Lord,
entertains Q. Elizabeth at Corney
House, 106.
Russell of Thornaugh, Dame
Elizabeth, mont., 678.
Russell, Rachel Lady (1723), lived,
432 ; retirement after her hus
band's execution, 626.
Russell, C. Bramfell. residence,
457-
Russell, J., residence, 595. _
Russell, Rev. J. Fuller, residence,
246.
Russell, John, of Stubbers (1825),
mont., 456.
Russia, Emperor of, at Gravesend,
238.
Rustate, Toby, erects equestrian
statue of Charles II., 724.
Rutherwyke, Abbotjohn de (1347),
creGts chancel of Great Bookham
church, 53 ; refounds Chertsey
Abbey, 89 ; builds chancel, Eg
ham, 166.
Rutter, D., residence, 358.
Ruxley, or Roxeley, 124.
Ruxley Lodge, 113.
Ruysdael, paintings by, 156, 157.
Rye House Plot, 517.
Ryland,Wm. Wynne, line engraver
to George III., executed for
forgery, 1783, buried, 216 ; lived,
450.
Rysbrack, Peter (1716), sculpture
by, 254, 326.
Ryves, Bruno (Mercurius Rusti-
cus,d. 1677), rector, 4 ; vicar, 569.
Sacchini, musical composer (1786),
portrait. 409.

Sacharissa (Dorothy, daughter of
Sir Robert Sidney), born, 381.
Sacheverell, Dr. Henry (1724),
died, 353.
Sackville, LadyMary, portrait, 406.
Sackville, Lord George, portrait,
408.
Sacred Heart, Roman Catholic
Convent of, Roehampton, 511 ;
St. Joseph's College of the, Mill
Hill, 431.
SaddIers'"Comp. Almshouses, 561.
Sadleir, John, M.P., commits
suicide (1856), 284.
Saffron grown, 362.
Sailmakers' Comp. Almshouses,
625.
Sailors' Daughters' Home, 287.
St. Aubyn, P., church by, 181.
St Vincent, Adml. John ^ervis, ist
Earl, portrait, 255 ; lived and
died (1823), 682.
Salis, Gerome Fane, Count de
(1836), mont., 318.
Salis, Rev. H. T. de, residence,
189.
Salis, Peter de, purchases Dawley,
140.
Salis, W. Fane de, residence, 358.
Salisbury, Marquis of, seat, 327.
Salisbury, Robert Cecil, ist Earl
of (1612), exchanges Theobalds
for Hatfield, 327, 606; builds
Hatfield House, 327 ; entertains
James I., 327, 606 ; mont., 325 ;
portraits, 329, 330, 336.
Salisbury, James, ist Marquis of
(1823), portrait, 330.
Salisbury, Margaret, Countess of
(beheaded 1543), lived, 578.
Salisbury Hall, 422.
Salmon fishery at Putney, 476.
Salt Hill, 216 558.
Salter, Lady Mary (1631), mont,
383-
Salters' Comp. Almshouses, 679.
Saltmarsh, John, Puritan divine,
buried (1647), 670.
Saltonstall, Sir Richard, Lord
Mayor (d. 1601), mont., 457.
Salus bury, Mrs. (1 773) , mont. ,
59o.
Salviati, mosaics by, 223, 325, 732.
Salvin, A., church by, 553; im
provements at Windsor Castle,
717, 726.
Salwey, Mrs.; residence, 189.
Sambrooke, Sir Jeremy, lived, 433.
Sambrooke family seat, 707.
Samuda, J. D'A., M.P., residence.
509-
Samuel, Margaret Lydia (daughter
of Ettrick Shepherd, d. 1847),
mont, 623.
Sanchez, Balthazar, grand master
of the Comfit -makers, founds
almshouse at Tottenham, 624.
Sandby, Thomas, R.A. (1738).
bridge by, 562 ; designs Virginia
Water, 648.
Sanderstead Court, 546.
Sandon Hospital, Esher, 203.
Sandown House, 207.

Sandown Park Race-ground, 546.
Sands, J., residence, §k^.
Sandwich, Edw. Montague, ist
Earl of (1672), portrait, 255.
Sandwich, John, 4th Earl of (1792),
portrait, 256.
Sandycombe Lodge, residence of
Turner, 639.
Sandys, Abp. Edwin (1588), por
trait, 222.
Sant, James, R.A., portraits by,
587-
Santelowe, Hester, actress, lived,
120.
Sarratt Hall, 547.
Sarto, Andrea del, paintings by,
465 ; drawings, 730.
Sassoon, Mrs., residence, 661.
Saunders, Admiral Sir Charles
(i775), portrait, 255.
Saunders, Sir Edward, Lord Chief
Justice (1682), lived, 226.
Saunders, Richard, residence, 595.
Savage, J., buildings by, 6, 453,
623.
Saville House, residence of Lady
Mary Wortley Montague, 638.
Savory, Albert, residence, 8.
Saxon Kings, coronation stone,gg8.
Say, Sir WiUiam (1529), mont,
and inscription outside church,
63-
Saye and Sele, Lord, residence, 41.
Sayer, Admiral (1760), mont by
Nollekens, 147.
Saye's Court, Addlestone, 8.
Saye's Court, Deptford, Evelyn's
seat ; his improvements ; Peter
the Great at, 145 ; what left of
it converted into a recreation-
ground, 146.
Scadbury House, 559.
Scarth, H., residence, 27.
Scawen, Sir W. (1722), mont., 7^.
Schalch, Andrew (1776), director
of Woolwich Gun Foundry, le
gend of his appointment, 742 ;
grave, 740.
Schaiiffelein, paintings by, 602.
Schomberg, Meinhardt, last Duke
of, house, 56.
Schoreel, paintings by, 602.
Schroeder, F. A., residence, 442.
Schwartzenberg, Prince, portrait,
726.
Scott, E. J. , residence, 63.
Scott, Vice-Admiral Sir George
(1841), mont, 468.
Scott, John (son of Lord Chan
cellor Eldon), mont., 94.
Scott, John, of Amwell (1783),
house ; grotto, 12.
Scott, Hon. Mrs., residence, 610.
Scott, Sir G. G., R.A., architec
tural work«; by, 68, 92, 129, 152,
i53. 232> 32I» 323. 333. 335* 357>
358, 4*7- 5°4. 515. 541. 547. 548,
560, 603, 682, 719, 721, 734, 740.
Scott and Moffatt, buildings by
159. 3*2,4o2- 558, 703-
Scott, Samuel, landscape painter
(1772), lived 629.
Scott.SirWalter (1832), at Chiswick

INDEX.

787-

SCOTt;.

House, 109 ; ai Gill's Hill, 480 ;
Bentley Priory, 564 ; portrait,
409.
Scots, Mary Queen of, portraits,
310, 330. 4°8- 724-
Scudamore, Thomas (1626), mont. ,
395.
Seamen, Hospital for, founded by
Q. Mary at Greenwich, 252.
Seamen, Free Hospital for Sick,
258.
Seamen, Asylum for Aged, 42.
Seamen, Asylum for Orphans of,
55S.
Searle, Messrs., church by, 218.
Seaton House, 3S2.
Sebastian del Piombo, painting by,
228.
Seddon, J. , church by, 99.
Sedley, Catherine. See Dorches
ter, Catherine Countess of.
Sedley, Sir Charles (1701), died,
290; set; tire to Harefield House,
316 ; portrait, 409.
Sedley, John, mont. , 559.
Seghers, Daniel, paintings by,i56,
440.
Selhurst, 126.
Selsdon, 132.
Selwyn, John, keeper of Oatlands
Park, curious brass of, 660.
Selwyn, Wm. (1817), mont, 103.
Senhouse, Bp., rector, 86.
Seven Dials column, erected at
Weybridge, 692.
Seven Sisters at Tottenham, 622.
Sevenoaks, or Sennocke, Sir Wil
Uam, founded Grammar School
(1418), 548. .
Severn, paintings by, 228.
Severndroog Castle, 555.
Sevier, sculpture by, 720, 727.
Seward, Wm., author of Anecdotes
(1799), mont., 217.
Sewardstone Lodge, 549.
SeweU, Geo., M.D. (author of Sir
Walter Raleigh), buried (1726),
286.
Seymour, Jane, died, 298 ; por
trait, 406.
Seymour, Sir Thomas, lived, 313.
Shabden Park, 101.
Shackle, E. H., residence, 336.
Shackle, T., residence, 336.
Shadwell, Vice-Chancellor Sir
Lancelot (1850), lived, 26.
Shadwell, Thomas (1692), wrote
' Squire of Alsatia,' 190.
Shaftesbury. Anthony Earl of
(Characteristics, d. 1713), at
Reigate, 483.
Shaftesbury, Countess of, lived,
502.
Shaftesbury, Emily Countess of,
portrait, 587.
Shand, A. H., residence, 687.
Shannon, Field-Marshal Richard
Boyle Lord (1740), mont., 660.
Sharp, Daniel, residence, 318.
Sharp, Granville (1813), lived, 224.
Sharp, Richard (Conversation, d.
1835), at Fredley Farm ; guests
there, 430.

Sharp, WiUiam (1824), line en
graver, mont., 107.
Sharpe, B., residence, 313.
Shaw, Huntingdon, artist in iron,
buried (1710), 293; gates by, 306.
Shaw, Norman, A. R.A. , mansion
by, 696.
Shaw Well, 549.
Sheen House, 550.
Sheen Lodge, 4g6.
Sheerwater, 70.
Sheldon, Abp. (1677), mont. , 128 ;
portrait. 221.
Shelley, Percy Byshe(i822), visits,
291 ; wrote ' Alastor,' 733.
Shelvocke, Captain George, cir
cumnavigator (1742), mont. , 146.
Shelvocke, George, F.R.S., Secre
tary to Post Omce(i76o), mont. ,
146.
Shenfield Place, 552.
Shenley Hill, 553.
Shenley Lodge, 553.
Shepherd, J. , residence, 189.
Shepherd, Jack, highwayman, at
Finchley, 218 ; pretended ex
ploits and burial at Willesden,
^ 698.
Shepperton Deeps, 553.
Shepperton Creek, 554.
Sherard, Dr. James (1739), his
botanic garden, 172.
Sheridan, Charles Brinsley (1843),
mont. , 734.
Sheridan, Richard Brinsley(i8i6),
lived, 53, 382 : brought his bride
home, 67.
Sheridan, Mrs. (Miss Linley), por
trait, 156.
Sheridan, Wm. , Bp. of Kilmore,
died (1711), 278.
Sherlock, Bp. (1761), mont., 221.
Sherne Hall, 658.
Sherrick Green, 699.
Shiers family monts. , 53.
Shillitoe, Thomas, Quaker philan
thropist (1836), lived, 624.
Shipley, Hon. George, lived,
637-
Shipley, Col. R. Young, residence,
556.
Shirley, Lady Fanny, lived, 639.
Shirley House, 554.
Shootfield, 593.
Shore, J2ne, portrait at Eton
wrongly described as, 211.
Shoreham Castle, 556.
Shoreham Place, 556.
Shorne, 243.
Shorne, Sir John, shrine of, 619. _
Shorter, Catherine (wife of Sir
Robert Walpole), portrait, 588.
Shortlands, 37.
Shot and shell manufacture, Wool
wich, 745.
Shovel, Sir Cloudesley (1707),
seat, 122 ; portrait, 255 ; mont.
to widow, 123.
Shower, Sir Bartholomew (1701),
seat ; mont. , 470.
Shrewsbury, Countess of (1568),
mont, 201.
Shrewsbury, Earl of, killed in duel

by Duke of Buckingham (1678).
26.
Shrewsbury, Charles Talbot Duke
of, seat ; died (1718), 382.
Shrewsbury House, 50.
Shrimps, the Gravesend fishery,
240.
Shrubbery, The, Shooter's Hill,
555 ; Woodford, 737.
Shrubhurst, 463.
Shuttleworth, Mrs., residence, 63.
Sibthorpe, Coningsby, residence,
432-
Sidcup, 557.
Sidcup Place, 557.
Siddons, Mrs. (1755 — 1831), lived,
- 479 J portrait as Tragic Muse,
411.
Sidmouth, Henry Addington, Vist,
(1757 — 1844), at White Lodge,
Richmond, 495 ; mont., 440.
Sidney, gir Henry (1586), lived.
, 106.
Sidney. Alderman, residence, 560,
Signorelli, Luca, drawings by, 730.
Silver Hall, 382.
Silverlands, 92.
Silvermere, 662.
Silversides, R. H. . residence, 470.
Sim, Alexander, residence. 324.
Simpson's Manor House, ruins of,
62.
Singer, Sam. Weller, lived, 431,
Skippon, General Philip, lived, 4.
Sknne, Henry (Rivers of Great
Britain, d. 1803), mont., 660.
Slade, A. F., residence, 105,
Sladen, J., residence, 69.
Slater and Carpenter, buildings
by, 87, 181.
Slave Trade Abolition, meetings
on, at Clapham, 112 ; Wilber
force and Pitt, decisive conver
sation respecting, 388.
Slee, C. W., residence, 418.
Slines Oaks, 88.
Slyfield family seat, 54 ; monts. ,
53-
Small Arms Factory, Royal, de
scribed, 183.
Smallpox andvaccinationHospital,
354-
Smee, J. H., residence, 609.
Smirke, Sir Robert (1867), church
by, 665.
Smith, Albert (1860), lived, 450.
Smith, Augustus, residence, 590.
Smith, Sir C. Cunliffe, Bart..
residence, 571.
Smith, Charles E. residence,
662.
Smith, G. R., residence, 132.
Smith, Harrison, residence, 737.
Smith, H. A., residence, 334.
Smith, Alderman Henry, bene
factor to Surrey (1627), mont.,
664.
Smith, Alderman James (1667),
mont. , 274.
Smith, Admiral Sir Jeremy, per-
trait, 255.
Smith, J- D., residence, 385.
Smith, John, residence, 573.

788

INDEX.

Smith, Rev. Sidney (1771— 1845),
born, 738 ; married, 86,
Smith, Sir Thomas, statesman, and
Provost of Eton (d. 1577), builds
mansion at Ankerwyke, 13 ;
builds HiU Hall ; monts. of,
and of Smith and Smijth family
at Theydon, 609.
Smith, Sir Thomas (d. 1625),
Governor ofthe E. I. Company,
ambassador to Emperor of
Russia, chief undertaker of the
discovery of the North-West
Passage, and patron of Purchas,
rebuilds Sutton Place ; mont,
Smith, Sir Thomas (d. 1609),
mont, 221.
Smith, Thomas Southwood, M.D.
(1788— 1861), lived, 354.
Smith, W. H. , M.P., residence, 2.
Smithson, Sir Hugh, ancestor of
Dukes of Northumberland, seat,
619.
Smyth, G.. rector of Chelsfield
(d. 1668), mont., 687.
Smyth, Sir James, Lord Mayor
(d. 1706), mont., 684.
Smyth, Sir James, Bart. (d. 1717),
arid wife Mirabella, mont., 684.
Snayers, painting by, 156.
Snower Hill, 43.
Snyders, painting by, 602.
Soafne, Sir John, R.A. (1837), a
bricklayer's boy, 8 ; buildings
„ by, 155, 5^4-
Soldiers' Daughters' Home, 287.
Soldiers' Widows, Cambridge
Asylum for, 403.
Solomon, Walter, residence, 559.
Somers, John, Lord Chancellor
(1716), lived, 95, 433 ; mont.,
434 ; portrait, 406.
Somers, Earls of, family seat, 485.
Somerset, Robert Carr Earl of
(1645), house, 106 ; mortgaged
for daughter's dower, 106.
Somerset, Countess of died (1632),
106.
Somerset, Duke of, Lord Protector
(beheaded 1552), builds Syon,
600 ; forms earliest botanic
garden, 602 ; at Hampton Court
with Edward VI., 299 ; at
Windsor Castle, arrest and im
prisonment, 714.
Somerset, Dowager Duchess of,
founds Tottenham Grammar
School, 624.
Somerset, Duke of, seat, 230.
Somerset, Col. A. P., residence,
185.
Somerset Lodge, 707.
Sophia, Princess, of Gloucester,
lived and died (1844), 49.
Sophia, Princess, of Hanover, por
trait, 407.
SopweU Nunnery, foundation, 538 ;
origin of name ; ruins, 539.
Sorby, T. C, building by, 62.
Sotheby, C. W. H., residence, 343.
Sotheby, William (1833), author of
' Qrestes,' lived, 343. I

South Lodge, Enfield, 188.
South Weald Hall, 681.
Southall Park, 559.
Southampton, Lord, lived, 354.
Southborough, 63.
Southcotes, 7.
Southcott, Joanna (1814), lived
and taught, 640.
Southgate House, 560.
Southlands, 603.
Spaniards, The, 284.
Spearman, Rt. Hon. Sir H. G.,
residence, 313.
Spectral monster, 65.
Spence, Joseph (Anecdotes), lived ;
drowned (1768), 70.
Spence, Major, residence, 189.
Spencer. Earl, rebuilds Wimble
don House, 703.
Spencer, Countess, portrait, 587.
Spencer, Capt E. , residence,
568.
Spencer Grove, residence of Lady
Di Beauclerk, etc., 633.
Spencer House, 590.
Spenser, Henry, warlike Bp. of
Norwich, lived, 411.
Spicer, J., residence, 737.
Spilman, Sir John (1626), jeweller
to Q. Elizabeth, owns manor of
Bexley, 44 ; establishes paper-
mills at Dartford, 137 ; mont,
*37-
Spite Hall, 637.
Spoon, great, at IHbrd, 375.
Spottiswoode, W., F.R.S., resi
dence, 593.
Sprat, Thomas, Bp. of Rochester
(£7*3)> and the Flower-pot Con
spiracy, 62.
Spring, The, 313.
Spring Grove, 561.
Spring Park, 6.
Springfield, Northaw, 449 ; Wes
terham, 687
Springhead, 243.
Springs, The Hampstead, 279.
Squerryes, 686.
Stables, the Royal, at Windsor,
730.
Stada, J. I., equestrian statue of
Charles IL, 724.
Stael, Madame de, at Mickleham,
43Q-
Stafford, Marchioness of, portrait,
587.
Ptagbury, 739.
Stahremberg, Prince, Austrian
minister, at Twickenham, 630.
Stakes found in the Thames, 118.
Standen, Anthonie (161 1), cup
bearer to HenryEarl of Darnley,
King of Scotland, mont., 437.
Stanfield, Clarkson, R.A. (1867),
lived, 290.
Stanhope, James, ist Earl(i72i),
mont., 97.
Stanhope, Philip Henry, 5th Earl
(d. 1875), the historian, seat, q6.
Stanhope Countess Fredenca
Louisa, d. 1823, mont., 97.
Stanhope, Eugenia, widow of
Philip Stanhope, and publisher

of Lord Chesterfield's Letters
to his Son, lived ; mont., 42a.
Stanhope, Sir Wm., purchases
and alters Pope's Villa, 636.
Stanislaus, St., Roman Catholic
College of, 735.
Stanley, Sir John, lived, 450.
Stanley, Lady Lucy (circ. 1629)
mont, 657.
Stanmore Manor; 565.
Stanmore Park, 565.
Stanstead Hall, 568.
Stansteadbury, 568.
Stanwell Place, 569.
Stapleton, H. C. Chetwynd, resi
dence, 553.
Star and Garter, Richmond ,
dinners : Louis Philippe and
Napoleon III. at, 498.
State Apartments, Windsor Castle,
rules of admission, 724.
Statutes of Eltham, 170.
Staunton, Dr. Edward (1662);
ejected minister, and president
of Corpus Christi College, Ox
ford, 400.
Stawell House, 502.
Steamboats first introduced on the
Thames, 239.
Stearns, A. C, residence, 638.
Stedall, H., residence, 289.
Steele, Sir Richard (1729), at Ha-
verstock HiU, 290 ; at Hampton
Wick, 312.
Steele, statue by, 256.
Steen, Jan, painting by, 727.
Steenwyck, painting by, 727.
Steer, Thomas (1769), mont, 455.
Steevens, George, editor of Shak
speare, lived and died at (1800),
283 ; his walks to town, 283.
Stella (Swift's), born, 504.
Stenning, Mrs., residence, 233.
Stephens, Lyne, mausoleum, 512.
Stephens, Mrs. Lyne, residence,
Sii.
Stevens, George Alexander (Lec
ture on Heads, d. 1784), scholar.
402.
Stevens, W. E., church by, 674.
Stewards, 514.
Stewart, A. J. R. , residence, 438.
Stifford Hall, 571.
Stigand, Abp. (1070); at head of
Men of Kent meets William I.,
596 ; at Old Windsor, 734.
Stocks, the Village, 150, 333, 54.
Stoke Court ; Farm; Place, 575.
Stokes, Gregory de, killed at St
Albans, 521.
Stondon House, 576,
Stondon Place, 576.
Stone, the London, 561.
Stone Hall, 463 ; House: 83 ;
Park, 576.
Stone. Henry (Old Stone, 1653)'/
portrait by, 256.
Stone, J., residence, 331.
Stone, Nicholas (1647), monts. byj
83- 267. 569. 657, 678, 679 ; ch.
tower and porch by, 564.
Stonebridge Park, 699.
Stonor, Hon. Mrs., portrait, 587.

INDEX.

789

THOMAS.

Stoop, P., portrait by, 264.
Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert,
residence, 502 ; portrait, 255.
Stothard, Thos., R.A. (1834), a
day with Constable in Combe
Wood, 116.
Stourton House, 224.
Strafford, Thos. Wentworth Earl
of (1641), portrait, 462.
Strafford, Earls of, family seat,
435; monts., 474.
Strange, Sir John, Master of the
Rolls (1754)* tomb, 410.
Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord, por
trait, 58 7.
Straw-plaiting, village industry,
10, 466, 546 ; at St. Albans, 524.
Strawberries largely grown, 214,
694.
Strawberry HiU, Little (Clive
den), Mrs. Clive at ; the Miss
Berrys' residence ; Alderman
Wood's, 638.
Streatfield, Mrs., residence, 687.
Streatham Place, residence of
Mr. Thrale ; Dr. Johnson at,
589 ; pulled down (1863), 590.
Street, E. G., R.A. , buildings by,
83, 140, 266, 477, 509, 557, 576,
604, 645.
Strong, Edward (1723), master
mason of St. Paul's, buildings
by, 50, 72 ; mont , 540.
Strutt, Sir Denner (/. Charles I.),
mont., 676.
Strype, John (1737), minister at
for 68 years, 418 ; buried, 419.
Stuart, Lady Arabella (1615), at
East Barnet, 31.
Stuart, James, the Old Pre
tender (1766), portrait, 310.
Stuart, James (Athenian, d. 1788),
chapel by, 253.
Stuart, W. , residence, 10.
Stubbers, 456.
Stubbs, George (1806), painting
by, 265.
Stukeley, Rev. Wm., M.D,, anti
quary, buried (1765), 161.
Sturt, Lady Augusta, portrait,s87.
Sturt, Mrs., house and parties,276.
Stydolfs family seat ; visited by
Evelyn, 429
Style, Sir Humphrey, d. 1552,
mont., 36.
Styles family seat, 37.
Styles, Benj. Hoskins, costly ad
ditions to Moor Park, 507 ; his
vista ; quarrel with Sir James
Thornhill, 508.
Suckling, Sir John (1609-41), poet,
born 694.
Sudbrook, seat of John Duke of
Argyll, d. 1743, now a hydro
pathic sanatorium, 469.
Sudbury, 364.
Suffolk, Charles Brandon Duke
of (1545), lived, 389 ; grave, 719.
Suffolk. Henry Grey Duke of,
portrait, 330.
Suffolk, Henrietta Howard
Countess of (1767), mistress of
George II. , lived at Marble

Hill, built for her by George
a., 633.
Suffolk, Countess of, wife of Lord
Treasurer, portrait, 235.
Sullivan, Miss, residence, 224.
Sumner, Abp. (1862), mont., 6.
Sumner, Dr. , master of Harrow
School (1771), mont., 322.
Sundridge Park, 63.
Surrey, Henry Howard Earl of
(1347), at Hampton Court, 298 ;
prisoner at Windsor, 713 ; por
traits, 309, 407.
Sussex, Augustus Frederick Duke
of (1843), at Hammersmith, 274.
Sussex, Bridget Countess of (1600),
tomb and effigy, 678.
Sutherland, Duchess of, portrait,
587.
Sutherland, R., residence, 189.
Sutton, Charles Manners, Abp. of
Canterbury (1828), mont, 6.
Sutton, Manners. See Canterbury,
Visct.
Sutton House, 342.
Sutton Place, seat of Sir Thomas
Smith, 593.
Suttons, 571.
Swakeley, house built by Aid.
Wright, 1638, 375.
Swanley, 595.
Sweyn's Camp, tradition of, 596.
Swift, Jonathan (1745), at Ham,
273 ; with Sir Wm. Temple at
West Sheen, 551 ; at Twicken
ham, 633.
Sydney, Thomas, ist Visct. (1800),
mont., 102.
Sydney, Earl of, seat, 104.
Syllinger (St. Leger), Sir Thomas,
chapel and tomb, 720.
Synod at Hertford (673), 338.
Syon Monastery, 378.
Syon, Nuns of, their wanderings,
379-
Tadworth Court, 403.
Talbot, Charles, Lord Chancellor,
house ; died (1737), 6.
Talbot, WiUiam Earl (1782), mont,
594-
Talbot, Col. the Hon. Wellington,
residence, 682.
Talleyrand at Juniper Hill, 430.
Tallis, Thomas, musical composer
(1585), buried, 261.
Talworth, 148.
Tandridge Court, 603 ; Hall, 603.
Tankerfield, George, burned for
heresy (1555). 522-
Tankerville, Bennets Earls of,
family seat, 317 ; monts., 318.
Tankerville, Charles Earl of (1767),
mont, 318.
Tapestry : at Ham House, 272 ;
Hampton Court, 305. 308;
Knole, 407 ; Bradbourne Hall,
510; Copped Hall, 626; Wind
sor, 724, 726, 727.
Tapestry Works : at Fulham, 227 ;
Mortlake, 439.
Tarver, Ed. J., church restored by,
698.

Tasker, Countess, seat, 552.
Tasker, F. T. , residence, 700,
Tasker, F. W., monastery by, 354.
Tate, Nahum (1715), vicar, 165.
Tattam, Dr. Henry, rector, 563.
Taunton, Henry Labouchere Lord
(1869), owns Stoke Manor ; his
collection of paintings, 574.
Taylor, Brook, LL.D. (Perspec
tive, d. 1731), born 1685, 165.
Taylor, Sir Henry (Philip van
Artevelde), residence, 550.
Taylor, Isaac, engraver ( 1 807) ,
buried, 164.
Taylor, Isaac, of Ongar (1829),
and family, lived ; graves, 459.
Taylor, Isaac, of Stanford Rivers
(Ancient Christianity, d. 1865),
residence ; grave, 563.
Taylor, Jane (Original Poems, d.
1824), buried, 459.
Taylor, Joseph, the original
Hamlet, buried (1652), 504.
Taylor, Mrs. P. A., residence, 288.
Taylor, Sir Robert (1716), build
ings by, 147. 234, 415, 560, 682.
Taylor, W, residence, 27.
Teck, Duke and Duchess of, resi
dence, 496.
Teignmouth, John Lord (1834),
lived, 112.
Temple, Sir John, Master of the
Rolls, Ireland (1674), lived, 550,
Temple, Sir WiUiam (1698), at
West Sheen, ,551.
Temple Grove, 550.
Temple Hatton, 41.
Tenchleys, 421.
Teniers, D., paintings by, 56,
177, 408.
Tennyson, Alfred, resided at, 343,
639.
Tenterden, Charles Abbott, Lord
Chief Justice (1832), lived, 337.
Terrick, Bp. of London (d. 1777),
rebuilds part of Fulham Palace,
222 ; mont., 221 ; portrait, 222.
Teulon, S., residence. 421.
Teulon, S. S., churches by. 158,
286, 314, 474, 594. 679, 681, 704,
7°Q-
Thames, fortress on, 611.
Thames, ships sunk in the, 741.
Thames Conservancy Works, 578 ;
preserve, 662.
Thames, section of ancient bank,
202.
Thames Bank, 223.
Thames Valley, mammalian re
mains of, 377.
Thames waU, breaches in, 202.
Thames Royal Yacht Club, head
quarters, 240
Thatched House "in Hodsden,"
359-
Thatched Lodge, 496.
Theed, W., sculpture by, 256, 318,
720, 728, 731.
Theobalds Park, 93, 607.
Theydon Hall, 608 ; Place, 609.
Thicknesse, Capt. Philip (1792),
lived, 4.
Thomas, J., sculpture by, 17.

790

THOMPSON.

Thompson, Giles,Bp. of Gloucester
(1682), mont., 720.
Thompson,Memory-Corner,house, 288.
Thompson, W. J., residence, 549.
Thomson, James (1748), poet, tutor
at Manor House, Barnet, 31; at
Hammersmith, 274 ; residence
and death at Richmond, 502 ;
grave and mont, 503.
Thorncroft, 415.
Thorndon Hall, George I II. at, 362.
Thorne, Robert, founder of Bristol
Grammar School, builds (1535)
S. aisle of Walthamstow ch,, 657.
Therney Broad fishery, 154.
Thornhill, Sir James (1734), paint
ings by, 6, 72, 254, 261, 308, 507,
511, 560, 716.
Thornton, Henry (1815), lived; Pitt
designs saloon to house, in.
Thornton, John, mont., 112.
Thornton Heath, 126.
Thorold, Dr. , lived, 646.
Thorpe, John, architect of Holland
House, buildings by, 72, 513,701.
Thorpe House ; Place ; Lee, 6to.
Tickell, Richard (i793),mont., 293.
Tile House, 140.
Tillet, J., residence, 6.
Tillot, — , hospital by, 453.
Tillotson, Abp. (1694), resided at,
165.
Tilt boats, Gravesend, 238.
Timon's Villa, Canons ; Pope and
the Duke of Chandos, 72.
Tintoretto, paintings by, 307, 727.
Tipping, W., seat, 55.
Tiptoft, Lady Jocosa (1446), re
markable brass of, 180.
Tissot portrait by, 588.
Tite, Sir W., F.S.A. (1873), church
by, 230.
Titian, paintings by, 307, 308, 465,
727.
Titsey Place, 614.
Tittenhanger Park, 115, 421.
Titus, Capt. Silas (Killing no Mur
der), buried (1667), 68.
Tod, A. , residence, 498.
Toland, John (deistical writer),
lived, wrote Pantheisticon, died
- (1722) and buried at, 477.
Toll levied on Jews at Brentford,56
Tolme, J. H., bridge by, 226.
Tolson, Anne (1750), founds alms
houses ; monumental bust of,
381.
Tomson, Lawrence (1608), mont.,
90.
Tonge, J. W. , residence, 97. .
Tonson, Jacob (1735), lived ;
formed collection of kit-cat por
traits, and died at Barn Elms,
26; lived, 450; portraits and
other Tonson relics at Bayford-
bury, 33.
Tooke, John Home (1812), curate
of Brentford, 58 ; lived and
wrote ' Diversions of Purley,'
79 ; house at Wimbledon ; Sun
day parties ; death ; burial, 706 ;
tomb, 158.

INDEX.

Tooke, Thomas (History of Prices,
d. 1858), lived, 707.
Tooke, W. A., residence, 470.
Topiary work at Bedfont, 40 ; at
Harlington, 318.
Torrens, Capt. A. , residence, 334.
Tottenham Wood, proverbs re
specting, 620.
Totteridge Park, 626.
Tournament held at Dartford, 136 ;
on Hounslow Heath, 369 ; mock
tournament at Tottenham, 620.
Tovi, Danish Thane, hunting seat;
founds Church of the Holy
Cross ; legend of, 651.
Tower, Christopher, residence, 384.
Tower, The, Nutfield, 455.
Tower, C.J. Hume, residence, 681.
Townshend, Marquis, seat, 341.
Townshend, Alderman James
(1789), lived, 618 ; buried, 619.
Toy, Hampton Court, 312.
Tracy, G. M., residence, 687.
Trafford, Sir Sigismund (1723),
mont., 657.
Tranquil Dale, 43.
Trapp, Professor Joseph, D. D.
(1747), rector; mont., 318.
Travis, Archdeacon George (1797),
buried, 286.
Treaty of Peace between Charles I.
and Parliament, meeting for, at
Uxbridge, 645.
Treaty House, seat ofthe Bennets;
residence of Wentworth Gurney;
C. GostUn ; Sir Christopher
Abdy ; and Dr. Thorold, 646.
Trecothick, Aid. (1775), mont, 6.
Tredwell, J., residence, 590.
Trenchard, Ashfordby, residence,
449.
Trent Park; 188.
TresUan, John, the King's smith
(/. Edward IV.), screen by, 719.
Trevereux, 421.
Trevithick, Richard (1833), in
ventor of locomotive steam en
gine, died, 137.
Trew, J. P., residence, 501.
Trimen, A., building by. 504.
Trinity, Corporation of the, at
Deptford, 141.
Trinity House, Deptford, 147.
Triqueti, Baron, tarsia-work at
Windsor, 721.
Trotter, Captain F. , residence,
^435- .
Trumpington, Abbot William de
(1235), rebuilds west end of St.
Albans Abbey, 526 ; erects St.
Cuthbert's Chapel, 531.
Truro, Thomas Wilde Lord (d.
1855), Lord Chancellor Jived ,560.
Tryon, Lieut. -Gen. William(i788),
tomb, 641.
Tucker, Abraham (Light of Na
ture), lived and died (1774), 44 ;
mont., 150.
Tuckett, Capt. H., duel with Lord
Cardigan, 705.
Tulip trees, fine, no, 114, 1521
Tunnel, proposed, from Gravesend
to Tilbury, 239.

Tunstall, Cuthbert, _ Bp. of Dur
ham (1559), portrait, 222. '
Turchi, Alessandro, paintings by,
157.
Turnbull, Sir W., Secretary of
State, friend of Pope, lived, 160.
Turner, J. M. W. (1851), paintings
by, 77, 256 ; builds house at
Twickenham, 639.
Turner, Mrs., residence, 233.
Turner, Sharon (1847), lived, 707.
Turner, Thomas, tomb with yews,
657.
Turpin, Dick, at, 174, 190, 230,
Turpin's Oak, 218.
Twells, Philip, M.P., residence,
1?5-
Twickenham Park, 631 ; Francis
Bacon lived at, 631.
Twickenham House, residence of
Sir John Hawkins, and of Paul
Vaillant, bookseller, 638.
Twyford Abbey, 643.
Tyddiman, Admiral Sir Thos.
(1668), portrait, 255.
Tyers, Tom (Tom Restless of
Jonnson, d. 1787), lived, 17.
Tyler, J. , residence, 419.
Tyler, Wat, encamped, 46; house,
136; outbreak of insurrection, 136.
Tylney, Sir Richard Child, ik
Earl, rebuilds Wanstead Manor
House, 668.
Tyrrel, Capt. G.,R.N., residence, 4.
Tyrrel, Edward, residence, 365.
Tyrrel, Sir J. (1422). mont., 361.
Tyrone, Hugh O'Neil Earl of,
lodged at Wanstead, 668.
Tyson, Rev. Michael, antiquary,
buried (1780), 411.
Udal, "Pious Mr.'' puritan divine,
ejected for ' Demonstration of
Discipline ' (1592), 400.
Umfreville, S. C, residence, 246.
Under River, 548.
Under River House, 548.
Universities' Boat Race starting-
place,and head-quarters, 227,476.
Unwin, W., residence, 452.,
Uplands, 550.
Upminster Hall, hunting seat of
monks of Waltham, 643 .
Upshire, 655.
Upton, 684.
Upton Court, 645.
Urswyk, Sir Thomas, Recorder of
London and Chief Baron of the
Exchequer (1470), 133.
Urswyk, Dean, erects Deanery at
Windsor, 722.
Uvedale, Dr. R., his academy
noted ; plants cedar, one of the
first in England, now a famous
tree ; gardens ; hortus siccus pur
chased by Sir Robert Walpole,
and now in British Museum,i75,
176.
Uxbridge, Henry Paget, Earl of,
(i743). mont, 357.
Vache, The, 82.
Vaillant, Paul, bookseller, lived,
638.

INDEX.

791

WANSTEAD FLATS.

^lence, 686.
Valentines, 375.
Vanbrugh, Sir John (1726), archi-
t§>:t, building by, 49 ; house at
Esher, 265 ; building attributed
to, 6.
Vanbrugh Castle and House, 49.
Vancouver. Capt. George (1798),
mont. , 468.
Van Cleef, J., portrait by, 727.
Vandergucht, Beiy. (1794), pre
sents picture for altar-piece ;
drowned in crossing the Thames;
buried, 44a
Vandergucht, M., painting by,409-
Vanderwerf, painting by, 157.
Van der Weyer, M., portrait, 587.
Vandevelde, paintings by, 156, 272,
3«-
Vandyck, lived, 172 ; portrait of,
272; portraits by, 18, 77,93, 157,
235, 264, 272, 307, 329, 330, 407,
408, 409. 462, 465, 586 ; (the
Van dyckRoom, Windsor Castle,)
725 ; (of himself,) 725, 726.
Vane, Sir Henry (the elder, d.
1654), portrait of, 272.
Vane, Sir Henry (the younger,
beheaded 1662), arrested at,
872.
Vanhuysum, painting by, 156.
Van Mildert, Wm. , Bp. of Durham
(1836), lived, 706.
Van Orley, designs by, 305 ; paint
ings by, 602, 727.
Vansittart, Nicholas. See Bexley,
Lord.
Vansomer, portrait by, 263, 307,
308,309.310,330,465.
Vatcher, George, residence, 605.
Vaughan, Sir Simon (t. Edward
III.), and wife, mont, 123.
Vaughan, Dr., head-master of
Harrow School ; library erected
to commemorate, 233.
Vaux, Guido (1606), house fre
quented by, 178,
Vaux, Lady, portrait by Holbein,
310.
Velasquez, paintings by, 157, 178,
307,465.
Venables, Mrs., residence, 670.
Venner and Fifth Monarchy in
surgents in Highgate Wood
(1661), 71.
Verderers' Forest Courts held, 98.
Vernon, W. F. , residence, 317.
Veronese, P., paintings by, 151,
157.307.465-
Verrio, Antonio (1707), design for
staircase of Sir Stephen Fox's
house at Chiswick, 106 ; summer
lodge, 138 ; ceilings by, 199; 272 ;
paintings at Hampton Court,
306, 308, 309 ; at Windsor, resi
dence and works, 715, 724, 726,
727.
Verulam, Earl of, seat, 233.
Verulamium, site of, 541 ; coins
found at, 519 ; wall, 541 ; relics,
543 ; theatre, 544
Vestris, Madame (Mrs. Charles
Mathews), died (1856), 224.

Vicar's Oak, at meeting of four
parishes, 453.
Vicars, Capt. Hedley, S. J. (1855),
mont., 36.
Victoria Docks, 472.
Victoria, Queen, visits at Ravens
worth House, 224 ; at Hatfield,
328, 331 ; Hertford, 339 ; at
West Hill, Highgate, 353 ;
Richmond, 501 : statue of, 726 ;
and Prince Consort, 728.
Victoria, Princess Royal (Princess
Imperial of Germany), painting
by, 732.
Victualling Yard, Royal Victoria,
Deptford, 142.
ViUa Carey, 225.
Villiers.Lord Francis,killed (1648),
399 ; portrait, 725.
Vine Cottage, Fulham, 223.
Vinepgreat, at HamptonCourt,3ii.
Vincent, Sarah Lady (1608), mont.,
572.
Vincent, Sir Thomas (1613), and
wife, mont., 572.
Vinci, Leonardo da, paintings by,
228, 727, drawings by, 729.
Visme, Gerard de(i797), lived, 706,
mont., 704.
Voltaire visits Lord Bolingbroke
at Dawley, 139; at Wandsworth,
664.
Vosterman, Jan, paintings by, 257,
727.
Vulliamy. C. .buildings by, 112,287,
Vulliamy, Lewis, churches by, 348,
504, mansion remodelled, 633.
Vyse; Col. R. H. R. Howard, re
sidence, 575.
Wade, Field-Marshal (i748),lived,
354- ,. ,
Waders, or water birds, rare,
Kingsbury, 395.
Wade's Mill (local proverb), 675.
Waddon, 126, manor of, 132.
Waddon Court, 132.
Waddon Mill, 37.
Wagener, J., residence, 361.
Waid, Christopher, burned for
heresy (1555), 136".
Wakefield, Gilbert (1801), mont,
503-
Wakefield, Rev. George, mont ,503.
Wakefield, Thomas (1806), mont.,
503.
Waldegrave, Henry, ist Lord ,
portrait of, and wife, 588.
Waldegrave, James, ist Earl (1741),
builds Navestock Hall; mont.,
445 '. portraits, 587, 588.
Waldegrave, James, 2nd Earl of
(1763), portrait, 587 : mont. 445 ;
portrait of wife, Maria Walpole,
58S ; of three daughters, 587.
Waldegrave, John James, 6th Earl
of, portrait, 588.
Waldegrave, Frances, Countess
of, seat 445; restores and en
larges Strawberry Hill, 586 ;
portrait, 587, 588 ; statue, 586.
Waldegrave, William (1610) ,
mont, 377.

Waldegrave family scat, 445 ;
monts., 445.
Wales, Frederick Prince of, at
Epsom, iqg; at Kew, 389.
Wales, Princess Dowager of,
forms exotic garden at Kew,
389.
Wales, Albert Edward Prince
of, villa at Chiswick, no; at
Gravesend, 238 ; at Hatfield,
328 ; Hertford, 339 ; Highgate,
352 ; Littleton, 421 ; lodge at
Windsor, 732.
Walford, R. C, residence, 358.
Walker and Burgess, bridge by,
579-
Walker, J. S., residence, 374.
Walker, Robert, portraits by
(himself), 309 ; (Cromwell), 406.
Walker, S., residence, 470.
Walker, John, residence, 560.
Wallace, Sir William (1305), story
of, at Hornsey, 363.
Waller, Edmund, poet (1687),
portraits of, 264, 409.
Walter,Sir WiUiam, Parliamentary
General (1688), lived, 461.
Wallington, Roman remains at,
37-
Walmesley, Sir Joshua, seat, 160,
580.
Walpole, Sir Robert, ist Earl of
Orford (1745), builds White
Lodge, Richmond ; entertains
George II. , 495 ; portrait, 588.
Walpole, Sir Edward, lived, 382.
Walpole, Sir Robert, seat, 437.
Walpole, Horace (Earl of Orford)
(1797), at Ham House, 271 ; at
Knole, 406 ; at Osterley, 461 ;
buys estate at Twickenham ;
builds Strawberry Hill, 580 ; his
account of it? 581 ; of the con
tents, 583 ; his residence there,
586.
Walpole, Rt. Hon. Spencer H.,
M.P,, residence, 158.
Walpole, Rev. T. , residence, 739.
Walsgrove House, 343.
Walsingham, Sir Francis (1590),
birthplace, 102 ; house at Barn
Elms, 25 ; visited by Queen
Elizabeth, 25.
Walsinghams, family seat, 102 ;
monts, 102.
Walter, Lord Chief Baron (1630),
lived, 629.
Walter, John, founder of the
'Times' {1812); mont., 604.
Walton, F., residence, 381.
Walton, Izaak (1683), favourite
fishing-ground, 138; at Totten
ham, 616 ; scene of Complete
Angler, 675.
Walton Place, 659.
Walworth, William, Lord Mayor
of London, keeper of Croydon
Park ; endows grammar-school,
402.
Wandle, source of, 126.
Wanstead Flats, rendezvous of
gipseys,670 ; secured for military
drill, 671.

792

Warbeck, Perkin, sought refuge
55°-
Ward, James, R.A. (i859),died, 95.
Ward, Lieut. -Col. G., seat, 686.
Ware, Great Bed of, 518, 674.
Ware, Isaac, architect (i766),lived.
288.
Ware Park, 673.
Ware, William of (13th cent.),
teacher of DunsScotus,lived,674.
Wareside, 675.
Warehousemen and Clerks' Schools
for Orphans, 79.
Waring and Blake, building by,62.
Waring, H, residence, 65.
Waring, W., residence, 87.
Warley House, 676.
Warley Common, camps on ;
George III. and Dr. Johnson at,
676.
Warley Barracks, 676.
Warley Place, 676.
Warner, Mrs., residence, 360.
Warner, Richard (1775), seat ;
writes ' Plantar Woodfordiensis,'
£37-
Warner, William, author of ' Eng
land's Albion,' buried (1609), 12.
Warren, Jamei, residence, 185.
Warren, Acml. Sir J. B. (1824),
portrait, 255.
Warren House, Lewisham, 418.
Warren House, Stanmore, 565.
Warspite Training Ship burnt, 753.
Warwick, Ambrose Dudley Earl of
(1590), builds house at Northaw ;
taken down 1775, 449.
Warwick, Sir Philip (1683), ' Me
moirs of Charles I.,' house, 105 ;
mont, 103.
Wat Tyler, at Blackheath, 46;
house at Dartford, 136.
Watching-loft, curious, at St.
Albans, 534, 536.
Water House, 556.
Water-work (Falstaff's) wall de
corations, 609, 737.
Waterfield, Ottiwel, C, residence,
55o.
Waterhouse, A., church restored
by, 55-
Waterland, Daniel, D.D. (1740),
vicar, 639 ; mont., 720.
Waterloo Gallery and Portraits,
Windsor Castle, 726.
Waterlow, A. J., residence, 486.
Waterlow, Aid. Sir Sidney H.,
M.P., residence, 352.
Waterlow, Mrs., mont, 486.
Watermen's School, 477.
Watermen's and Lightermen's
Asylum, 467.
Waterworks ; Middlesex Filtering
Beds, 28 ; Engine House of
West Kent, 37 ; Bickley, 45 ;
Grand Junction, 58 ; Hampstead,
71 ; New River pumping sta
tion, 115 ; Chelsea Aqueduct,
226 ; West Middlesex, and
Southwark and Vauxhall, 294 ;
Lambeth, and East London,
295 ; Reservoirs of East London,
625, 658.

INDEX.

Watling Street, line of, 45, 168.
Watney, J., residence, 132.
Watson, P., residence, 342.
Watteau, painting by, 157.
Watts, Isaac, D.D. (1748),
preached, 196 ; resided, 607.
Way, Albert (antiquary, d. 1874),
lived, 43.
Way, B. H. W., residence, 140.
Waynfleete, Wm. , Bishop of Win
chester and Lord Chancellor
(i486), builds Esher Place, 204.
Weald Park, 324.
Weare, William, buried (1823) ;
verses on, 168 ; murdered by
Thurtell, 480 ; Scott visits scene
of the murder, 480.
Weavers' Company, almshouses,
671.
Webb, architect of Greenwich
Palace (1660), 251.
Wedd, H. A., residence, 739.
Weenix, J. B., painting by, 156.
Weir, J. G. residence, 288.
Welch, T., residence, 455.
Weld, Sir John (ancestor of Welds
of Lulworth Castle) ; builds
chapel ; house, 560.
Weldon, Sir Anthony (Court of
King James I.), mont., 597.
Weldon, Sir Ralph (1609), mont.,
597-
Well Hall, 172.
Well, Anne Boleyne's, 74; Thomas
a Becket'Sj 463.
Wellesley, Richard Marquis (1842),
lived, 55, 633 ; mont, 210. '
Wellington, Duke of (1852), por
traits, 330, 726 ; statue, 750 ;
bust, 727.
Wellingtonia gigantea, planted by
Prince of Wales, 561.
Wells (medicinal), noted : Acton,
4 ; Barnet, 30 ; Bromley, 62 ;
Carshalton, 74 ,; Chigwell Row,
98 ; Epsom, 196 ; Godstone,
232 ; Hampstead, 279, 280, 282 ;
Kilburn, 292 ; Muswell HiU,
443 ; Beulah Spa, Norwood,
454 : Otford, 463 ; Richmond,
500 ; Streatham, 589 ; Syden
ham, 598 ; Woodford, 737.
Welsh Charity School, 16.
Welsh Harp, Old, 395.
Wembley House, 682.
Wembley Park, 682.
Wentworth House, 502.
Wesleyan Theological Institution,
504.
West, Benjamin, P.R.A. (1820),
paintings and decorations by,
253> 257, 309-
West, Gilbert (1756), translator of
Pindar, lived, 696.
West, Nicholas, Bp. of Ely, builds
chantry chapel in native place,
477-
West, Richard, Gray's friend,
(1742), buried, 326.
West, Hon. Mortimer Sackville,
Lord Sackville, seat, 404.
West Bedfont, 570.
West Combe, 49.

whittaker.
West End, 293.
West End Lodge, Claremont, 207.
West End Lodge, Stoke Poges.
Gray's house, 575.
West Ham Park, 471, 684.
West Lea, 755.
West Lodge, 188.
West London District Schools, 16.
West Wickham Court, 696.
West Wickham House, 696.
Westall, Richard, R.A. (1836),
paintings by, 151, 167, 257.
Westall, WiUiam, A.R.A. (1850),
paintings by, 151.
Westcot, orWestgate, 152.
Westfield, Thos., Bp. of Bristol
(1644), held living, 364.
Westfield, 360.
Westhall Lodge, 70.
Westhamble, 431.
Westmacott, Sir R., R.A. (1856),
sculpture by, 112, 436, 474, 641,
732, 734.
Westmacott, Richard (junior),
R.A. (1872), bas-relief by, 113.
Westminster, Abbots of, occa
sional residence, 337.
Westminster, Duchess of, portrait,
587-
Westminster, Thirlby, only Bp. of
(t. Henry VIII.), 245.
Weston, Edward, residence, 559.
Weston,Jero me, splendid wedding,
510.
Weston, Sir Richard, Lord Weston
and Earl of Portland (1634),
lived, 510.
Weston Green, 149.
Westwood House, 559.
Wetherall, N. T., residence, 356.
Wetherell, Sir Charles (1846),
lived, 8.
Wharton, Philip, Duke of (1731),
at Twickenham, 638.
Wharton, Philip, Lord, died,
290.
Wharton, Sir Michael, lived, 225,
Wheeler, T. R., residence, 593.
Whethampstead, Abbot John de
(1460), builds chantry chapel
and other works at St. Albans,
527 ; mont., 534.
Whetstone, Adml. Sir W., portrait,
255.
Whichcord, J„ church by, 233.
Whincop, Thomas, author of
' Scanderberg,' buried (1739),
627.
Whitcherche, Richard, erects
shrine of St. Amphibalus, 535.
White, W. O., residence, 576.
White Hall, Cheam, 86.
White Hall, Tottenham, 619.
Whitebait ministerial dinner,
origin of, 134.
Whitehead, Paul, poet (1774),
lived, 639 ; buried, 604.
White Lodge, Richmond, 496.
White Webbs House, 178.
Whitgift's Hospital, 130.
Whitmore, Lady Frances (1692),
mont, 641.
Whittaker, Mrs., residence, 687.

INDEX.

WHITTINGHAM.

793

WORMLEVBURY.

Whittingham, Charles (1841),
printer, mont, 107.
Whittingham, M., residence, 514,
Whittington Almshouses, 355.
Whittington Stone, 355.
Whitton Place, built by Duke of
Argyll; altered by Sir W.
Chambers, 694.
Whitton Park, 694.
Whyte, Rowland, residence, 226.
Wick House, 498,
Wickham Hall, 696.
Widmore, 63.
Wigan, J., residence, 442.
Wiggington, W., churches by, 85,
419.
Wigram, Joseph Cotton, Bp. of
Rochester (1867), mont., 413.
Wigram, Money, seat, 205.
Wigram, Vice-Chancel lor Sir
James (1866), mont, 413.
Wigram, W. Knox, residence, 383.
Wigsell, A D., residence, 546.
Wilberforce, Samuel, Bp. of Win
chester (1873), born, in ; por
trait, 587.
WUberforce, William (1833), resi
dence at Clapham, 11 1 ; at
Highwood Hill, 432 ; builds
church at Mill Hill, 431 ; at
Wimbledon, 706.
Wilbraham, Sir Roger (1616),
mont., 266 ; almshouses, 267.
Wild, J. W., churches by, 49, 590.
Wilde, C. N., residence, 421.
Wildernesse, 547.
Wildman, Lady Margaret (1825),
mont, 641.
Wilds, A. H.. building by, 241.
WUdwood House, 289.
Wilkes, John (1797), '45 agitation,
scene of, 56 ; at Highgate, 353 ;
at Teddington, 605.
Wilkie, Sir David (1841). at
Hampstead, 290 ; paintings by,
77. 330, 726.
Wilkins, John, Bishop of Chester
(1672), rector of, 121.
Wilkins, WilUam, R.A. (1839),
building by, 13.
Wilkinson, Conrade, residence, 37.
Wilkinson, H., residence, 178.
Wilkyson, Thos. (1504), Pre-
pendary of Ripon, brass, 460.
Willes, Hon. Sir J. S. (1872),
lived, 10.
Willes, Mr. Justice (1787), mont.,
66.
Willesden, Our Lady of, pilgrim
ages to, 698.
Willett, W, residence, 609.
WUliam I. at Windsor, 710 ; at
Old Windsor, 734.
WilUam II. at Windsor, 710.
William III., buildings at Green
wich Hospital, 253 ; at Hampton
Court ; thrown from his horse
(1702), 302 ; visits Sir W. Temple
at Sheen, 551 ; plot for assassi
nating, 627 ; at Windsor, 715 ;
plants Long Walk, 716 ; por
traits, 265, 330.
William IV. at Richmond, when

portrait,

Duke of Clarence, 501 ; at
Roehampton, 511 ; place of
death, 728 ; grave, 718; portraits,
255, 726, 728.
William III. of Prussia,
726.
Williams, John, apostle and mar
tyr of Polynesia (1796 — 1839);
born, 624.
Williams, Lady Mary (1824),
mont, 660.
Wilmington House, 700.
Wilmington Manor House, 700.
Wilmot, J. Eardley, lived, 619.
Wilson, Christopher, Bp. of Bristol
(1792), mont., 221.
Wilson, Edward, residence, 334.
Wilson, Prof. Erasmus, born ;
restores church, 597.
Wilson, James, bridge by, 562.
Wilson, Sir Maryon, residence, 84;
manor, 279.
Wilson, Richard (1782), paintings
by, 157, 178.
Wilson and Nicholl, church by,
154-
Wilton, Grey Earl of, Henchman
to Henry VIII.; mont, 210.
Wilton, Joseph, R.A., sculpture
by, 411; buried, (1803), 670.
Wimbledon,Ed. Cecil Visct. (1638),
lived, 702 ; family mausoleum,
703-
Wimbledon Common, 704.
Wimbledon House, 701.
Wimbledon Lodge; 706.
Wimbledon Park House, 703.
Winchelsea, Abp. died (1313), 462.
Winchester, Bps. of, residence,
204.
Winchester Hall, 351.
Windmill Hill, 242.
Windus, Benjamin Godfrey, resi
dence ; collection of water-colour
drawings, 621.
Windsor, Andrews ist Lord, com
pelled by Henry VIII. (1543) to
exchange his family seat, 569.
Windsor, Thomas (i486), tomb ; its
use for Easter Sepulchre, 569.
Windsor Forest, 733.
Wintringham, Sir Clifton, M.D.
(1794), resided at, 278.
Winwood, Sir Ralph, secretary to
James I. (1617), lived, 383.
Wirlamceaster, or Watlingceaster,
520.
Wiseman, Nicholas Patrick
Stephen, Cardinal (1865), lived,
419 ; 658.
Wishart, Admiral Sir James (1723),
portrait, 256 ;_ mont., 415.
Wissing W., paintings by, 77, 264,
265.
Witches, Brentford, 58 ; Edmon
ton, 165.
Woburn Park, 7.
Wodehouse,W. H., residence, 341.
Woffington, Margaret (Peg, d.
1760), mont., 604.
Wolfe, Gen. James(i75g), lived at,
49 ; birthplace, 686 ; buried, 262 ;
memorial in Westerham church ;

column in SquerryesPark; relics,
686.
Wolsey, Cardinal (1530), received
manorofMoteland,93;atEltham, 170 ; prisoner at Esher, 204 ; at
Gravesend, 236, 237 ; at Green
wich, 250; purchases Hampton
manor, 295 ; builds Hampton
Court ; splendid style of living
there; grand banquet to French
Ambassador, 296 ; transfers
Hampton Court to Henry VIII.,
297; rested at Hendon, 337;
received French Commissioners
at Richmond (1526), 490 ; at
West Sheen, 493 ; elected
Abbot of St. Albans, 527 ; builds
chapel at Windsor, 721 ; por
traits, 305.
Wolsey's Tower, 205.
Wolsey's Well, 204.
Wolstenholme, Sir John (1639),
builds church ; mont., 564.
Wolverton, Lord, seat, 565.
Wonham Manor House, 43.
Wood.Gen.W. M., iesidence, 411.
Wood Green, 625.
Wood Green Park, Cheshunt, 95.
Wood Hayes, 707.
Wood HiU, 326.
Wood, Miss, residence, 548.
Wood, Robert, M.P., and Secre
tary of State (1771), author of
'Ruins of Palmyra,' lived at, 478.
Wood, Thomas, residence, 421.
Wood, Western (d. 1863), M.P. for
London ; mont., 124.
Woodcock Lodge, 43.
Woodcote House, 199.
Woodcote Park, 199.
Woodd, C. H. L., residence, 288.
Woodd, S. Basil, residence, 288.
Wooden Anglo-Saxon church, 247.
Woodford Bridge, 737.
Woodford Green, 736.
Woodford Hall, 736.
Woodford Wells, 737.
Woodhatch, 486.
Woodlands, Blackheath, 50.
Woodlands, Chelsfield, 87.
Woodlands, Hoddesdon, 360.
Woodlands Park, 573.
Woodriding, 470.
Woodside, Sundridge, 593.
Woodside, Wanstead (Princess-
Louise Home), 671.
Woodyer, H., churches by, 3, 33,
42, 70, 150; colleges, 210, 211.
Woolaston, 98.
Woolley, J. T., residence, 682.
Woolloton, T., residence, 455.
Woolmers, 341.
Wootton, John, painting by, 406.
Worcester, Charles Somerset Earl
of, lived, 389.
Worcester Park, 446.
Worcester Training Ship, 246.
Worcesteis, 176.
Wordsworth, Wm., at Hampstead,
289.
Worlidge, Thomas, engraver
(1766), mont., 274.
Wormleybury, 755.

794

WORMLEY HOUSE.

Wormley House, 755.
Worms Heath, 88. '
Worsley,Sir Richard (1603), mont.,
720.
Worthington, C. J., residence, 91,
Worton Manor House, 381.
Wotton, Sir Henry (1639), built
fishing-house at Datchet, 138 ;
mont., 210.
Wotton, Thomas Lord, lived, 280.
Wouvermans, paintings by, 156,
157, 408.
Wratten, J., residence, 43.
Wren, Sir Christopher (1723),
lived, 312 ; buildings by, at
Eton, 209 ; Greenwich Hospital,
252 ; works at Hampton Court,
303 ; Windsor, 708, 715.
Wressell Lodge, 707.
Wright, E. Carrington, residence,
384-
Wright, Sir George (1631), and
Lady, mont., 503.
Wright, Sir James, Governor of
Virginia, and Minister at
Venice, establishes (1770) manu
facture of artificial slates, 737.
Wyatt, Sir Digby, buildings by,
117.685.
Wyatt, James (i8i3\ buildings by,
76, 511, 574, 6gi; bridge by, 511.
Wyatt, Matthew Cotes (1862),
mont. of Princess Charlotte by,
720.
Wyatt, M. D., church by, 676.

INDEX.

Wyatt, R. J., sculpture by, 151.
Wyatt, Sir Thomas, crosses
Kingston Bridge (1554). 399-
Wyatt, T. H., church restored by,
248.
Wyattville, Sir Jeffrey (1840), man
sion by. 448 ; restores and re
models Windsor Castle ; extent
and character of the works, 718 ;
epigram on, 716 ; designs Royal
Military Academy, Woolwich,
753-
Wyke House, 59.
Wykeham, William of (1404), owns
manor, 320 ; architect of Windsor
Castle, 711, 718, 724.
Wyllie, James, residence, 373.
Wynne, Sir Richard (1649), mont.,
704.
Wynyffe, deposed Bp. of Lincoln
(1654), mont. 411.
Wyre Hall, 166.
Wythes, George, residence, 190.
Yacht Club Royal Thames,
he ad -quarters, 240.
Yardley House, 549.
Yarrell, William (1856), mont.,
33-
Yates, James, F.R.S. (1871), lived,
352-
Yates, Mary Ann, tragic actress
(1787), mont., 503.
Yates, Richard, actor (1796), 503.
Yew avenue, 62.

Yew trees, large or noteworthy,
13, 54. 88, 101, 113, 132, 154, 161,
214. 3i8, 366, 385, 396. 404, 412,
430, 460, 546, 553, 575, 592, 603,
626, 734, 735, 736, 755.
Yew trees, Queen Elizabeth's, 688.
Yonge, John, Bp. of Rochester
(1605), grave, 61.
York, Edward Duke of, taken
prisoner, 47.
York, Gen. Fred. Aug., residence,
York, Frederic, Duke of (1827),
purchases Oatlands and rebuilds
house, 689 ; life there, 689 ; duel
with Lieut. -Col. Lennox. 705;
grave, 718 ; portrait, 726.
York, Anne Hyde Duchess of
(1671), portrait, 264.
York, Frederica Duchess of
(1820), parties at Oatlands ;
dogs' cemetery, 690 ; mont., 692.
Young, C. Baring, residence, 32.
Young, J., residence, 385.
Young, the Misses, residence, 634.
Zeeman, portrait by, 726.
Zoete, S. H. de, residence, 334.
Zoffany, J., R.A., paintings by,
57) 256 ; lived and died at, 577 ;
buried (1810), 389.
Zuccarelli, paintings by, 725, 728.
Zucchero, paintings by, 255, 263,
306, 310, 329, 330, 408.
Zucchi, paintings by, 71, 461.

Hazell, Watfion, and Viney, Printers, London and Aylesbury,

CORRECTIONS.

ge 2, col. 2, for Lord Abbot, read Lord Raymond,
, 6 ,, i, 1. 35, for 1848, read 1845.
, 8 „ x, 1. 13, for Payne, read Paine.
, 10 ,, i, 1. 38, for division , read brigade.
15 ,, 2, last line, for 1644, read 1664.
, 17 „ 2, 1. 21, for 1736, read 1733.
, 19 „ 2, . 33, for Maudesley, read Maudslay.
, 27 „ 2, 1. 22, for 1712, read 1727.
, 29 ,, t, The restoration of Barnet church was completed, and the church rc-opened,
May 25, 1875.
, 38 ,, l, 1. 42, for Elizabeth, read Queen Mary.
, 57 „ 1, I. 43, for Poole, read Peete.
, 73 „ 2, 1. 45, for Earl of Abercorn, read Duke.
74 ,, 1, 1. 30, for 1747, read 1744.
77 ,, 2, I. 34, for Gibbon, read Gibbons.
92 „ ±, I. 29, for Payne% read Paine.
106 „ i, 1. 31, for ist Earl, read 4th.
128 „ 1, Croydon pleasure fair was prohibited October 1875.
148 ,, 2, 1. 42, Lord St. Leonards died Jan. 29, 1875.
, 150 „ 2, 1. 51, for Mason Good, read John Mason.
166 „ 2, I. 20, for 1437, read 1347.
T74 ,, a, 1. 31, for Hatfield Hall, read Hatfield House.
245 ,, 1, 1. 22, The Goliath Training Ship was destroyed by fire, Deceniber 23, 1875, but
has been replaced by a larger ship, The Exmouth.
278 ,, 1, 1. 25, for Sir Ckristoplter, read Sir Clifton.
337 ,, 2, 1. 41, for Sir John, read Sir Joseph.
407 ,, -2, last line but one, for %th Duke, read 3rd.
427 ,, 2, 1, 18, for George Lovell, read Gregory.
451 „ 2, 1. 6, for 1710, read 1707.
508 „ 2, 1. 14, for Rospigliari, read Rospigliosi.
639 ,, *», 1. 34, for John, read William,
641 „ 2, 1. 47, for 1758, read 1785.
648 ,, l, 1. 37, for Paul Sandby, read Thomas.
714 „ x, 1. r, for 1547, read 1457.
732 ,, 1, 1. 49, dele " in 1791-"

50a, Albemarle Street, London,
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30 LIST OF WORKS

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PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 81

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32 LIST OF WORKS PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY.
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