iiianiiiiiiil f

N LIFE
IN THE
OLD SAILING-SHIP DAYS

'ran ra i;ij

JOHN D.WHIDDEN

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1950

OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD
SAILING SHIP DAYS

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OCEAN LIFE
IN THE OLD SAILING
SHIP DAYS
From Forecastle to Quarter-deck

Bt
Captain John D. Whidden

Tbe sea ! the sea ! tbe open sea,
Tbe blue, tbe fresh, the ever free !
Without a mark, without a bound.
It runneth the earth's wide regions' round;
It plays with the clouds ; it mocks tbe skies ;
Or Uke a cradled creature lies.
27ie5ea— Brya» W. Pbooteb.

With 29 Illustrations from Photographs

BOSTON
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY
1908

Copyright, 1908,
Bt John D. Whiddbn.
All rights reserved.

PubUshed September, 1908.

PSEBSWOBK BT
Thb UmvBBsiTT Pbssb, GAMBRmai, U. S. A.

TO
CAPTAIN JOSEPH W. CLAPP OF NANTUCKET
Dear Old Boy: — Although nearly fourscore years
have silvered your head, you yet retain your mirth and
sense of humor, as evidenced by your frequent letters,
which have been to me a source of inspiration. To you,
then, in memory of the many pleasant days passed in
genial companionship in old Montevideo, S. A., upwards of
forty years ago, this work is affectionately dedicated by
The Authob.
BOBTON, 1908.

PREFACE
" Captain, why don't you write a book? "
This question has been often asked me when relating
some tale of adventure or humorous anecdote of my sea
life. " For the reason that I know nothing of book writing,"
I have replied. " A school experience of seventy years
ago, cut short at the age of twelve years, was not likely
to leave a boy, however bright, with a high order of
literary attainment."
But, as years rolled on, after giving up the sea as a
profession, I concluded to jot down from memory my
quarter-century's sea experience.
The characters are from life, the scenes and incidents
as they appeared to me at the time, in a story of a New
England boy's career from the age of twelve to thirty-
seven. An orphan at five, on shipboard at twelve, exposed to
temptation in every port, subjected to the rough usage
and strict discipline of our merchant marine of sixty
years ago, serving apprenticeship as boy, ordinary, and
able seaman in the forecastle, graduating to third, second,
and first officer with quarters in the land of knives and
forks, i. e. the ship's cabin, and the sacred precincts of
the quarter-deck, ending with the command and part

viii PREFACE
ownership of a fine craft; in all that time his feet clear
of a ship's plank but twelve months.
There certainly should be something interesting in
such an experience.
The old-time sailing ships, with all the incidents con
nected with them, the captains who commanded and
sailed them, the old-time sailors — jolly old sea-dogs —
who manned them, are all of the past, and with them
departed the glamour and the romance of the sea, never
to return.
The march of progress never halts. Steamers have
supplanted the old-time sailing ships in a great degree,
canvas has given way to machinery and steam, steel and
iron have been substituted for wood, sailors are super
seded by engineers with their assistants, while the captain
and officers of to-day must be proficient in the knowledge
of steam and machinery, ere they can hope for a command.
The young men of the present generation know but
little of the old-time shipping, or the old sailing-ship days,
and in these pages to a certain extent the writer haa
endeavored to reproduce them.
Nearly all the veteran shipmasters, graduates of the
old school, so many of whom I well knew, have furled
their sails and dropped anchor, let us hope, in a safe,
restful harbor, life's troubled voyage ended.
Some few yet remain, and to all such I give hearty
greeting, trusting they will derive much pleasure ffom
a perusal of these pages, which may be to them a reminder
of their former lives.
The writer has long since given up the sea as a pro
fession, but the salt sea breeze is still more grateful than
the scent of roses, and on the waters of old ocean his
happiest days were spent.
Thanking my many friends for their words of encourage-

PREFACE ix
ment, trusting the work will meet with favor from the
pubhc, and be accorded a hearty welcome in memory of
the bygone days of the old sailing ships, I remain,
Heartily yours,
John D. Whidden.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGB
I. In the Forecastle. — The Half Clipper
"Ariel"  . 1
II. Boys' Duties in the Forecastle. — At New
York Loading for Liverpool ... 12
m. The Passage to Liverpool. — Jack Afloat
AND Ashore  . 25
IV. Crossing the Line. — Fernando Norohna 
The Malays  32
V. Boat Towns on Canton River. — Loading
Teas. — Homeward Bound .... 41
VI. Rio de Janeiro  Cape Horn. — Otaheite . 52
vn. Society Islands. — Honolulu. — California
Gold Fever  .59
VIII. Whaling in '48. — Again Tahiti. — Escape
to the Hills. — Dinner in the French
Restaurant  =68
IX. San Francisco. — Astoria. — Portland. —
Genuine Red Men  .79
X. Chile and Peru. — Italy. — Cotton - screwing
AND " Chanties " on New Orleans Levees . 89
XI. Ashore on Terra del Fuego. — Cape Pem
broke. — Port Stanley. — An Interna
tional Incident ...... 102
xn. Fishing on the Grand Banks — Mayaguez,
Porto Rico  Savannah, Ga  Ashore on
the Dry Tortugas  115
xi

Xll

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XIIL XIV.

XV.

XVI.

XVII.

xvm.

XIX.

XX.

XXI.

xxn.

Calcutta. — Juggernaut. — Ceylon. —
Mauritius  St. Helena. — New Orleans 124
Captain Meacom's Ideas. — Observance of
THE Sabbath. — Social Life in Calcutta.
— Animal Life on Shipboard . . . 134
Captain of the " Little Lizzie." — Hur
ricane OFF Rio db la Plata. — Buenos
Ayres in Winter. — Dinners, Lunches,
Horseback Riding. — Barque on Fire . 150
New Orleans in Winter — Balls, Operas,
ETC  The French Market at Sunrise. —
To Marseilles  The Smp "J. P. Whit
ney."  163
Taking the Black Veil in Sicily. — Re
turn Voyage to New Orleans. — Tre
mendous Rolls and an Animated Ome
lette. — A Wedding Party on Shipboard. 179
Buying into the " C. H. Jordan." — A Pro
tracted Calm in the Tropics. — The
Saladero db la Fonda, Montevideo. —
The Effect of the War on Foreign
Trade  191
The Fiasco of Professor Love  The Dom
Pedro Railroad — Brazilian Forests. —
Rio Janeiro to St. Thomas . . . 202
Lively Chase by a Privateer  In Com
mand of Ship " Danube." — Heavy Gale.
— Chinese Pirates. — The " Ariel " at
Shanghai  211
Flying through Formosa Straits. — In
Sight Daily of " Mountain Wave " from
Manila to Madagascar. — Farewell to
Old Cape Horn. — San Francisco after
Fourteen Years  221
The Pilot Service in '63. — Pacific Mail
Steamships. — Acapulco. — Isthmus of

CONTENTS

xm

Panama. — Supercargo to the Bahama
Islands. — Schooner « Elizabeth " . . 236
XXni. Coasting in the Bahamas. — Sociability a
Promoter of Trade  Extra Care in
Fruit Transportation. — Famous Block
ade Runners. — End op the War a Blow
to Nassau  245
XXrV. The Barque "Keystone." — War Scenes
at Richmond and Petersburg. — River
Gironde and Bordeaux. — Happy Ocean
Life in Old Sailing Ship Days . . 254
XXV. Four Months at Fever - stricken Buenos
Ayres. — Three Hundred Sail in Port.
— The Botanical Gardens op Rio Ja
neiro. — A Weird Night at Botofogo . 263
XXVI. Bahia. — Our Lady of Bom Fim. — Dinner
Parties on Shipboard. — Cape Clear
Light. — Liverpool  273
XXVII. Liverpool  Spurgeon and Myrtle Street
Chapel. — An Irish Jaunting-car. —
Captains' Wives at Sea .... 282
XXVIII. Chittagong and Akyab. — Again the
Burning Ghauts. — Intense Heat TDay
AND Night. — Reducing Temperature. —
From Akyab to Falmouth, England . 291
XXIX. The Isle of St. Helena  Longwood and
the Tomb op Napoleon. — Falmouth,
England  Antwerp, Belgium . . 300
XXX. The Decadence of the Sailing Ships —
The War Tariff  American Shipping
under Foreign Flags  The Merchant
Marine the School op Reserve for the
Navy. — Farewell to the " Keystone "
AT Antwerp  309

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Portrait of the Author .... Frontispiece
Washington Street, Marblehead, in 1840, Showing
Townhouse and Old Salem Stage ... 2
The Old Home at Marblehead, formerly the Resi
dence OF General John Glover of Revolu
tionary Fame  \^
Longwood, St. Helena, Prison Home of Napoleon . 48
Botofogo Bay and Peaks of Gabia and Corcovada,
Rio de Janeiro .  48
San Francisco in 1849  83
Barque "Cornelia L. Bevan," Old-time Baltimore
Clipper, off Palermo  83
Off for the Grand Banks in 1845. " Round the
Rocks of Marblehead"  116
Appleton's Wharf, Marblehead, 1840. Old-time
Fishing Schooners Fitting Out .... 119
Off the Ghauts at Calcutta. Shipping Lying at
Moorings  140
Montevideo Bay, Showing Mount, Uruguay . . 155
Mouth of River Chaco and Warehouses, Buenos
Ayres  155
Barque " Azof " off Marseilles. A Fine Type op
THE Old-time Freighter  169
Model of Ship " Isaac Jeanes," Captain William C.
Chipman  178
Captain William C. Chipman, Barnstable, Mass. . 184
Ship "J. P. Whitney" at Port of Malta. . .190
Captain Joseph W. Clapp, Nantucket, Mass. . . 197
XV

xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGB
Ship "Daniel I. Tenney" of Newburyport, Mass.,
LEAVING Havre  212
Ship "Edward Hymen" of Castine, Maine. A Fine
Specimen of the Old Merchant Marine . . 212
Ship " Danube " at Anchor off Victoria, Hong - Kong 230
Quays and River Frontage, Bordeaux . . . 258
QuAi Louis XVIII and Light - towers. River Gi
ronde, Bordeaux  258
Rio de Janeiro, Entrance to Bay. Gloria Hill and
Sugar Loaf  267
Rio de Janeiro. Aqueduct from the Corcovada,
Twelve Miles Distant. The City's Water Supply 269
City op Bahia in 1868  274
Rio de Janeiro. Cathedral and Palace Square . 277
Ship " Importer " Passing Rock Light, Entrance to
River Mersey, Liverpool  285
Captain George T. Avery, Newburyport, Mass. . 295
Barque " Keystone " off Holyhead, Walks, from
Bahia for Liverpool  303

OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD
SAILING SHIP DAYS
CHAPTER I
1832 - 1845
IN THE FORECASTLE.  THE HALF CLIPPER " ARIEL "
I WAS born on High Street in Boston, Mass., in the
year 1832, and lost my parents when I was but five years
of age. My mother died at Mobile, Alabama, where
my father was engaged in business, and my father died
in Savannah, Georgia, the year after. Upon their decease,
my grandparents having taken charge of my sister and
myself, we were brought up in their family at Marble
head, Mass., and I attended the public schools until I
attained the age of twelve years.
At this time I was called a very fair scholar, well up
in reading, writing, and geography, fair in arithmetic,
and intensely interested in books of travel and adventure,
while all works treating of the sea, tales of travel in
foreign lands, shipwrecks and everything pertaining to
the ocean, had a very great fascination for me.
Marblehead being a seaport town, my time, when not
in school or employed around the house doing chores,
was spent with my companions about the wharves,
Bwimming or climbing about the vessels at the docks,
1

2 OCEAN LIFE
rowing around the harbor in the small boats, or dories,
that we would borrow from the various captains or
skippers of the fishing craft, — mostly schooners from
fifty to ninety tons burthen, engaged in the Grand Banks
fisheries, of which at this time there was a fleet of nearly
a hundred sail, all haihng from and owned in Marblehead.
What a treat for us boys when a square rigger — as
we designated all barks, ships, and brigs — came saihng
into the harbor, perhaps from Cadiz, Spain, laden with
salt for the fishing fleet to take to the Grand Banks of
Newfoundland for their spring fares, and when she
hauled into the wharf to discharge her cargo into the
salt sheds, how we youngsters swarmed on board, explor
ing every nook and cranny of her, climbing over her rig
ging, daring each other to mount higher and higher, until
with a feehng of triumph I at last placed my cap upon
the main royal truck, the highest point, and looking
down saw the admiring, though envious, gaze of my young
companions! Then, again, to sit around the fo'c'sle after the work
for the day was over, to see the sailors at their meals,
and hear them spin their yarns, was happiness indeed.
To go to sea, become a saUor, visit foreign lands, and
in due time become the captain of a fine ship, this was
the goal to be looked forward to, the great aim of our
lives. It certainly was of mine, and I judge of all, or
nearly all, of my playmates.
My grandparents were not in favor of my adopting a
sailor's life, wishing me to learn a trade, but to this I
was opposed, and rang the changes upon the advantages
of a seafaring life, until they gave way and consented.
Shortly after this decision, on my return from school
one day I was ushered into the parlor, where sat a gentle
man in conversation with my grandmother, to whom I

WASHINGTON STREET, MARBLEHEAD, IN 1840, SHOWING TOWNHOUSE, AND OLD SALEM STAGE

IN THE FORECASTLE 3
was introduced. He was Captain James King, of Salem,
Mass., and I learned for the first time that I was to join
the ship he commanded in two weeks, the ship being the
fine new half clipper named the " Ariel," just launched,
and lying at Newburyport, bound round to New York to
load flour for Liverpool, England, from thence to China,
she having been built for a Canton trader.
This was joyful news indeed, and I went out from the
parlor, after making my best bow and answering all his
questions in a satisfactory ilianner, the happiest boy in
the old town.
During our conversation, my grandmother touched
upon my good qualities, and said to Captain King that
she did not see how she could part with me, I was so
useful and willing to do anything about the house, such
a help to her, etc., etc., to all of which I listened in con
siderable astonishment, for, while my grandmother was
one of the best of souls and very fond of me, yet I was
constantly getting into trouble, and received more
scoldings, no doubt richly deserved, than pettings. In
fact, at this time I had fallen into disgrace, and I after
ward thought it the predisposing cause of her consent
being obtained to my going to sea.
The facts were as follows: At regular intervals during
the year, and especially about the holidays, Thanksgiving
and Christmas, my grandmother made up and baked
what she called a " batch " of pies, — mince, apple, and
squash predominating. I was very fond of pie, and at
these times I was in great demand to peel and core
apples, seed raisins, chop meat and suet for the mince;
taking a most active part, and a very willing one, in all
that was going on in this line.
Then came the baking. Our kitchen was large and
roomy, and the fireplace immense. This was before

4 OCEAN LIFE
cooking stoves came into use. On the left side of the
fireplace was a large brick oven, where all the baking
was done, and when this occurred it was in large quantities,
about thirty or forty pies constituting a " batch." After
baking, they were stored in what was called the " back
chamber closet," very large and convenient, having tiers
of shelves around it, there to remain until wanted. It
was a goodly and attractive sight to my eyes whenever
a fresh " batch " was stored away. I longed to get at
them, but the old lady, probably feehng that I was
not to be trusted when pies were around, always kept
the closet locked and the keys stowed safely in her ample
pocket. My little bedroom adjoined this chamber, and
in going and returning I was obliged to pass through it.
Always in the morning I invariably tried this closet door,
and always found it locked, but this morning my grand
mother had forgotten to lock it, although she had taken
out the key! I could hardly credit it. Opening the
door I looked in, where lay the rows of pies, temptingly
displayed in tiers, shelf over shelf. I would not have
stolen money, or anything else, but the sight was too
much, and I yielded to temptation. I did not dare take
a whole pie, as that would be missed at once. To cut one
would be open to the same objection, i. e. discovery.
I pondered awhile how I should enjoy the fruits of my
" find " and yet escape detection. A briUiant thought
struck me. Slipping down-stairs I entered the kitchen.
My grandma was busily engaged, and I could see was
likely to be, for half or three quarters of an hour, at least.
Hastily smuggling a case-knife into my pocket, I passed
out of and around the house and entered by the side door.
Creeping softly up the back stairs, in a moment I was
again in the closet. Standing on a chair, and taking a
pie from the top shelf, knowing these would be the last

IN THE FORECASTLE 5
used, I inserted the thin knife between the upper and
lower crusts, and working carefully round was able to
lift the top crust sufficiently to enable me to get at and
eat aU the mince from the inside. CarefuUy replacing
the top crust, and patting the edges down, the pie to a
casual observer showed no difference, in the looks, from
any other pie. Pleased with my first experiment, I pro
ceeded to try another, and did not finish my feast untU
I had eaten the insides out of six or seven pies.
Each day I visited the closet and regaled myself on
mince or apple pie, taking no note of the number; in
short, I was just living on pie. No wonder my dear old ¦
grandmother thought my appetite was failing and grew
anxious about me, but the end was near!
One day, on my return from school, I found we had
company to tea, two or three ladies. This was good news,
for company days were red letter days to me, as we
always had something extra in the way of cake, pre
serves, and pies; in short, a great addition to every-day
fare. The tea was ready, the table nicely laid, and the guests
seated around it, my grandmother at the head to serve
the tea, grandpa at her left, and myself at her right. I
can see her now, smiling, and beaming upon her guests,
as she glanced around the well-appointed board.
Ann, our old servant, had been commissioned to bring
down two or three pies, which were on the hearth in front
of the fire, warming. At the right moment one of the pies
was placed in front of the old lady. As she took the
knife and fork in her hands to cut it, she made a few
remarks on how she made her pies, how careful she was
to select the ingredients, etc., ending with the query
whether Mrs. Jones would prefer apple or mince?
"Well, really, Mrs. Appleton," rephed the lady.

6 OCEAN LIFE
" they look" so nice, I beheve I'U take a small piece of
each." " Why, certainly," replied my grandmother, laying her
knife upon the pie, which crashed through it hke an egg-
sheU! I shall never forget the feeling of terror that seized me,
or the look of astonishment on my grandmother's face,
as she turned reproachfully to Ann, and said:
" Why, Ann! You've forgotten to put any mince in
this pie," adding, rather sternly, " You may pass me up
another pie."
Ann's face was a study. She was a splendid cook, and
to be called down before company for not putting mince
or apple in pies, and baking them without, was past her
comprehension. She could not understand it. Another
pie was placed upon the table, and again the old lady
started to cut it, meanwhile apologizing for keeping her
guest waiting. Same result! Laying down her knife
and fork, she looked at my grandpa, and then at me.
Although not a word had been said, I could contain
myself no longer and blurted out, " I didn't do it."
This of course was a dead give-away.
My grandfather arose, and taking me by the shoulder
marched me to the door, teUing me to go to bed, and he
would attend to me by and by, which he did, and I
lost all appetite for pie for the time intervening between
this event and my leaving home.
The iUustration facing page 13 shows the home of
my grandfather Thomas Appleton, once that of the
Revolutionary General John Glover.
Now came the bustle of preparation. The carpenter,
old Mr. Jerry Smith, was given the commission to make
my little blue sea-chest. As no member of the family
had ever been to sea, the old folks were somewhat at a

IN THE FORECASTLE 7
loss as to what I would require, but this was got over
by pressing into the service old Captain Edmund Bray,
a retired shipmaster, who readily entered into the family
councils, and, acting on his suggestions, my outfit was
soon completed and packed away in my chest.
On Monday morning, I was to leave home, and taking
my books from school Friday night for the last time, I
bade the master good-by, spending Saturday with the
boys in all their games, it being a holiday.
Sunday I attended church all day, and the following
morning said the last good-by, and started for the station
with my grandfather. Arriving a little before train
time, he spent the interval in giving me good advice,
which I am afraid was not listened to as earnestly as it
should have been, when handing me my tickets for New
buryport, with six new half-dollars, which were very
highly appreciated, money having always been a very
scarce article during my school days. I stepped on board
the train and in a few moments was speeding away
toward my future home, at least it would be my home
for a year or more.
Arriving at Newburyport, I hired a conveyance and
was driven to the wharf with my chest, there obtaining
the first view of the ship in which I was to make my
start in hfe, and, as I took in her trim appearance, and
looked aloft at her long, tapering spars, realizing that
I was really a member of her crew, a feeUng of pride came
over me, and all regrets, if I had any, were swept away,
and I felt I had made no mistake in adopting a sailor's life.
The first and second officers were on board, with the
carpenter, who came out to assist me in getting my chest
on board and stowed away in the fo'c'sle, where for the
time I was the only occupant, the carpenter having his
room aft.

8 OCEAN LIFE
Having got my mattress into one of the upper berths,
I got out my blankets and sheets, with " comforter "
or spread, and proceeded to make my bed after a home
pattern. At this time sheets and piUow-cases were unheard
of articles in a ship's fo'c'sle, but of this fact I was not
aware, so made my bed as near as I remembered it in
my little chamber at home. This being done, I went
on deck, making the acquaintance of the first and second
officers, by whom I was set to work at odd jobs about
deck, sweeping up, and anything I was told to do.
As the crew had not come down from Boston, there
was no cooking on board, but the officers and myself got
our meals at a place caUed " Brown's Tavern," but a
short distance from the wharf.
A week passed, and I had become quite accustomed to
being on shipboard. After having received instructions
from the second mate before going aloft, I had won
considerable credit by sending down the main royal yard,
and did the work in a manner that brought a compliment
from him, i. e. " an old hand could not have done it
better." This pleased me very much, and I began to consider
myself quite a sailor.
But, " pride goeth before a faU."
It was the close of a drear December day. Snow,
rain, and sleet had been faUing, and about four in the
afternoon I had gone below in the fo'c'sle to get ready
to go up to the tavern for supper, when I heard a great
commotion on the deck overhead. The companion doors
were thrown open, and down rained chests, bags, and
hammocks, wet and dirty, followed by the crew who had
just arrived on the train from Boston.
There were about twenty men, of all nationalities,
and as soon as they landed in the fo'c'sle they began

IN THE FORECASTLE 9
pitching the bags and hammocks into the berths, all
talking and swearing, for they were not in good humor,
being about as wet as their luggage.
I had drawn up, and was standing on my little chest
alongside my berth, when, without any ceremony or
asking " by your leave," an old grizzled shellback tossed
into my clean berth a wet, dirty bag and hammock.
Although I had stood, half in awe, watching the scene,
not venturing a word, this act of old Tom's was too much,
and la3dng my hand upon his arm I remonstrated:
" Don't do that! You'U soil my sheets! "
Tom gave me a puzzled look for a moment, and ex
claimed, " Who in thunder are you? "
I hastened to assure him that I was a sailor, one of
the crew, and that was my berth, and my bed was made
up. With a queer look he mounted my sea-chest and
glanced into my berth. Never shall I forget his look of
wonder, and the ineffable scorn conveyed in his tone
as he turned around to his chum, and exclaimed with
withering sarcasm, " WeU I'm blessed, Joe " (only he did
not say " blessed "), "if the beggar ain't got sheets! "
I made no reply, but I felt that in his eyes, at least,
I was no saUor, and when they had gone to supper,
shortly after, off came the sheets and pillow-cases, which
were stored at the bottom of my chest, nevermore to do
duty as bedding on that ship.
Two days after, the weather having cleared, the crew
came on board, also the pUot and captain, and with a
fine westerly breeze sail was made at the wharf, the fasts
cast off, and the ship headed for the bar. As soon as
crossed, the pilot was discharged, and aU saU made,
topmast stun'saU booms got up and run out, stun'sails
got out and sent up, anchors secured, and everything
movable about decks made fast.

10 OCEAN LIFE
AU was bustle and excitement attendant upon leaving
port, and particularly in this case, as the " Ariel " was a
new ship, on her maiden voyage, and many a glance was
cast over the ship's side to note her speed. Meanwhile
the log was hove, and showing better than ten knot,
a general feeling of satisfaction was felt fore and aft.
The sea was comparatively smooth, and everything new
to me. I was in my element, long looked forward to, and
entered into everything with a will. Where I did not
fully understand all orders I went with the crowd, and
took note of what was going on, managing to get along
very well.
At four o'clock the crew were called aft and the watches
chosen, after which the port, or mate's, watch went
below to supper, while the starboard, or second mate's,
cleared up decks. They put everything in order for the
night, while the boys swept up.
At four bells, — six o'clock, — the mate's watch again
came on deck to relieve the starboard, who went below
for supper, remaining untU eight o'clock, — eight bells, —
when they again came up, relieving the port watch,
who went below until midnight.
I will here state that from four to eight o'clock p. m.
is divided into two watches of two hours each, and this
changes the watches each night; so that the port watch
has eight hours below one night, i. e. from eight to
twelve p. M. and from four to eight a. m., while the star
board has eight hours on deck, having only four hours
below to sleep, i. e. from twelve midnight untU four
o'clock a. m. The " dog " watches, as they are called,
serve to change the long watches, so that the two get
their eight hours below every other night, and it is a
rule that the second mate's watch always has the eight
hours on deck the first night at sea.

IN THE FORECASTLE 11
I had been chosen in the second mate's watch, Mr.
Henry Fabens's, and went to supper at six, with the
rest. It consisted of hash, salt meat, hard ship's biscuit,
and tea sweetened with molasses. After supper the men
ffiled their pipes, smoked and " yarned " until eight bells,
when they again went on deck, myself with them, to
stand my first wateh at sea.
The wheel was relieved, the lookout man mounted the
steps to the to'gallant fo'c'sle, while the remainder of
the watch either paced the deck from the break of the
fo'c'sle to the stern of the long boat, or picked out a snug
berth, sheltered from the wind, to spin a long " yarn "
to while away the four hours that must intervene before
they could turn into a warm berth.
Old Tom, who since the sheet and pillow-case business
had hardly taken any notice of me, started to do a turn
of walking, pacing regularly from the fo'c'sle to amidships
and return.

CHAPTER II
1845
boys' duties in THE FORECASTLE.  AT NEW YORK
LOADING FOR LIVERPOOL
Anxious to ingratiate myself in Tom's good graces,
and thinking this a favorable opportunity, I hauled
alongside, keeping pace, and strove to engage him in
conversation, but was not very successful. He was very
quiet, occasionally replying to my questions in gruff
tones, until I became somewhat discouraged, and lapsed
into silence.
Presently four beUs (ten o'clock) were struck aft, and
repeated on the beU hung at the break of the to'gallant
fo'c'sle. The wheel was relieved and lookouts changed
at this hour. It was old Tom's lookout, but he thought,
probably, that it would be much more comfortable on
the main deck if he could shirk it, and send me up to
take his place. The officer of the deck, seeing some one
up there, would not know the difference unless he came
forward on the fo'c'sle, and as it looked fine, this was
not likely.
" Boy, have you had a lookout yet? " he asked, sud
denly turning to me.
" No," said I.
" WeU, you get up on that fo'c'sle deck, and keep a
good lookout. Do you hear? "
12

DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 13
" All right," I answered, glad to be assigned a position,
although I hardly knew what was required of me.
I mounted the steps to the deck, and the former
lookout descended, after asking who sent me. " Tom,"
I rephed. " Oh, he did! " said he, and made no other remark.
I found it much more exposed than the main deck.
The night was dark. The topmast stun'saU having been
taken in, the yards were braced forward, whUe the wind
began to freshen and the sea to rise. To'gaUant sails
were handed, and while the ship heeled over to the
increasing wind, the salt spray began to fly across the
fo'c'sle deck, drenching me, and as I had no oilskins on
I was soon wet through. To add to aU this, I began to
have a squeamish feeling at my stomach, which rapidly
increased until I lost all interest in any lookout, and
stood chnging to the fo'c'sle capstan, looking aft, towards
the cabin, cold, wet and miserable, feeling that, after
all, I may have made a mistake in deciding to become
a sailor. As I thought of our cozy parlor at home,
with its glowing grate of anthracite, in front of which
I had spent so many happy evenings reading my favorite
books, or saihng imaginary voyages, and contrasted that
picture with my present situation, I made up my mind
that when the ship arrived at New York, if ever she did,
like the prodigal son I would return home, if I had to
walk. Suddenly I was startled by a hoarse cry of " All
hands on deck! Reef topsails! " In a few moments the
watch below came tumbling up, the topsail yards were
lowered on the caps, reef tackles hauled out, spiUing-
lines and buntlines bowsed taut, the men laid aloft to
take in a double reef. These were the days of the big
topsails, the double yards not having been invented.

14 OCEAN LIFE
AU this was new to me, and as I lay over the capstan-
head I listened to the noise made by the flapping of the
big topsaUs, mingled with the hoarse cries of the crew
as they hauled out the gear, while from out of the dark
ness overhead, after they had laid aloft, the stentorian
voice of the second mate roared out to " Light over to
wind'ard," followed by " Haul out to leeward," terms
which at that time were so much Greek to me.
After lying down from aloft, the topsails were again
hoisted, and the watch sent below. It had now got to
be seven beUs (half -past eleven), and while anxiously
counting the moments to eight beUs, when our watch
would go below, I was thoroughly aroused by a yeU from
the second officer.
" Who in blazes is on that lookout? Don't you see
that ship? "
This was foUowed by some very emphatic language,
and rushing forward, he jumped upon the fo'c'sle deck,
and sprang towards me, exclaiming, " Who's this on the
lookout? "
" Me! " I answered, in faint tones.
" Well! where you looking out to, the binnacle? "
He peered into my face, and with an oath demanded
what I was doing up there, and who sent me.
" Tom," I answered.
" Oh! he did!" said he, as the truth dawned upon
him, and leaving me, he descended to the main deck,
and in a moment more old Tom came fljang up on the
fo'c'sle, assisted by the second mate in a most vigorous
manner, where he was kept on the lookout for two hours
in the first officer's watch before being allowed to go
below. This was the last straw. Old Tom never forgave
me. At eight bells I went below and turned in as I was,

Duties in the forecastle 15
wet clothes and all, covered up well, and was soon warm
and steaming.
It did not seem as though I had more than got to sleep,
when I was roused by three knocks on the scuttle, and
the caU of " Starboard watch ahoy." " Turn out! "
" Turn out! "
In a moment all was bustle, with the watch turning
out to go on deck, but I made no response. Sick and
miserable, I lay still, trusting I should be overlooked,
but there came a call of " Come, boy, you going to sleep
aU the way to New York? Turnout!"
I was about to comply, when I heard another voice, —
" Oh, let the cub lay, he's no use on deck in this weather.
He's sick."
I said nothing, but lay still, and invoking blessings on
the head of the last speaker, I slept on, but at seven bells,
when the wateh were called to breakfast, I was ordered
out, without ceremony, and told to go to the galley and
hand down the coffee and grub.
In those days it was the custom for the boys to do all
the drudgery in the ship's fo'c'sle; to keep the bread
barge ffiled by taking it aft to the steward when empty;
to return with it to the fo'c'sle after he had filled it;
bring aU the coffee and tea as well as food from the galley
at meal times for aU the watch, sweep up the fo'c'sle
after meals, and in hot weather wash it out every morning
after breakfast, although in this he was generally assisted
by some member of the watch; in short, he was subject
to the call of any one while off his watch on deck.
This may seem pretty rough on the boy, but on the
other hand, where a boy did his work willingly, without
grumbling, the men were always ready to treat him well,
teach him the mysteries of knotting and splicing, and
everything pertaining to the work on shipboard, doing

16 OCEAN LIFE
aU in their power to instruct and make a saUor of
him. PuUing myself together, I mounted the fo'c'sle ladder,
which was almost perpendicular, and stepped from the
hatch, or scuttle, out upon the deck. Since I had gone
below at midnight the gale had increased, and the "Ariel "
was now hove to, under a close-reefed main topsaU and
fore topmast staysail, laying over at an angle of many
degrees, spray flying over her in sheets, decks wet and
slippery, the wind whistling through her rigging with
a wail like lost spirits, great waves chasing each other,
and looking as if they would overwhelm her, whUe over
head, patches of lead-colored clouds were scudding across
the sky.
The sight was a grand one, and I stood holding on to
the fife raU of the foremast, lost in amazement, until
admonished by a voice from below that if I did not hurry
and get that grub down I would hear of it when I came
below. To navigate between the companionway and
the galley was a problem, but by making short tacks
and holding on, with the help of one of the deck watch,
I managed to get the pots of coffee and the " kid " (a
smaU tub) of salt beef passed down safely, and was
about to descend, when I was ordered to go and see if
the cook had not got something besides " salt boss "
for breakfast.
Returning to the cook, he handed me out a long, broad,
deep pan, ffiled to the brim with a' compound caUed
scouse, consisting of ship bread broken up and soaked
until soft. This, with salt pork fat and molasses baked
in the pan, was taken off the stove boihng "and seething
with hot grease.
Taking hold at each end, I essayed to reach the com
panionway, which I finally succeeded in doing, and

DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 17
bending over, and holding out the pan, I caUed out,
" Here, somebody, take it, wiU you? "
Old Tom at that moment was directly underneath,
bending over the " kid," engaged in cutting off, with a
sheath-knife, a generous slice of beef. Without looking
up, he growled, in answer to my call to take it, " Oh,
don't be in a hurry, you cub, wait tUl somebody's ready
to take it."
At this instant the ship gave a heavy lurch, my foot
slipped, the hot mess ran over and burnt my hand, and I
let go ! The pan turned over, and with a crash landed on
poor Tom's head, the scalding compound flying to every
corner of the fo'c'sle. I was horrified. With a yell like
a Comanche, old Tom leaped from under, but the mischief
was done. From all parts of the fo'c'sle came a volley
of oaths and imprecations that scared me. The urgent
invitations to come down I respectfully but firmly
dechned, at least until they should beeome more calm,
and started to argue it out from the companionway.
In the meantime the deck watch, having been drawn
together by the uproar below, were convulsed with
laughter, evidently regarding it as a great joke.
It being now near eight bells, I descended the steps,
but had no sooner landed on the deck than I received a
tap on the side of the head, which would have knocked me
across the fo'c'sle, had I not been held up by a tap from
old Tom on the other side. This was getting too exciting
to last, however, and eight beUs striking, the watch went
on deck, grumbling at having been deprived of their
breakfast. I went with them, a discouraged boy, and
although I was still sick, I was mad, for I felt that I had
been " licked " for no fault of mine. My determination
to return home the first chance was strengthened, and
as the men gathered under the lee of the weather bulwarks,

18 OCEAN LIFE
I hung to leeward of the long-boat, keeping out of the way
as much as possible.
By four bells (ten o'clock) the gale beginning to mod
erate, an order was passed to loose the fore topsaU and
set it close-reefed. Two saUors sprang into the fore
rigging to lay aloft and execute the order, whUe the
remainder busied themselves in throwing down the gear
and making ready to sheet home when loosed.
Although I had heard the order given by the second
mate, I made no response, and as the officer went forward
I worked my way aft to leeward until I came to the
after, or booby, hatch, the slide or scuttle of which was
open, and as I looked down it seemed warm and pleasant
below in the between-decks. Glancing hastUy around,
and noting I was not perceived, all of the watch with
Mr. Fabens being busy forward, I slipped over, and
down the steps to the between-decks, working my way
forward in the semi-darkness, untU I came to the bulk
head of the fo'c'sle, on the other side of which were the
crew's quarters. Through this bulkhead were bored
auger-holes in diamond shape, for purposes of ventilation,
thus any conversation carried on either side of the bulk
head could be plainly heard on the other.
Previous to leaving port, aU the spare rigging, coils
of rope, saUs, hawsers, and one or two bales of oakum
had been piled up against this bulkhead, and secured.
Crawhng in over this mass, I stowed myself away in the
coil of a big hawser that was laid down over some sails,
and taking a bunch of oakum for a pillow, went soundly
to sleep.
The between-decks were dark, all the hatches being on
except the after one. The slide of that being thrown
back, admitted light enough for any one to see after
they grew accustomed to it, but coming suddenly from

DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE lO
the upper deck, it was difficult to distinguish objects for
a time. When I awoke it was very dark, save that the rays
from the fo'c'sle lamp streamed through the holes in the
bulkhead, and served to render the darkness a little less
dense. As I lay, half awake, the sound of voices in
conversation reached my ears. For a few moments I
could not remember where I was, but gradually it all
came to me, and listening intently, I gathered the con
versation concerned myself, not as a creature of flesh and
blood, but a boy who had lived and had passed away,
been drowned, lost overboard. I heard a voice that I
recognized as Joe's, saying:
" When did you last see him? "
" Oh, just as I was going aloft. He was down to lee
ward, hanging over the swinging boom. He must have
gone over with that heavy lurch, when we were all busy
with the fore topsail, and no one saw him go."
" Queer he didn't holler," said BUl. " I'm almighty
sorry, for he was a likely lad and smart, would have
made a good saUor. Did you see him sending down
that r'y'l yard, at the dock? "
" Yes," was the reply, " and the next day was cold
enough to freeze one, and that bloody second mate had
that kid aloft slushing down, and I said he ought to be
ashamed to send that boy aloft to slush down in such
weather." " Well," I heard old Tom chime in, " I'm awful sorry
I hit him, but the cub scalt every spear of hair out of my
head." " Ah, well," sighed Joe, " he's gone, and perhaps it's
all right. He'd been like a young bear, all his troubles
to come."
With this the subject seemed to be dismissed, and from

20 OCEAN LIFE
the sounds I judged the starboard watch had gone to
sleep, so curling myself up in my hawser, I soon followed
their example.
When I again awoke I could hear the deck watch
washing down. The ship seemed to be very quiet, lying
over at a gentle angle. As I became fuUy awake I sud
denly realized that I never felt better in my life, and oh!
so hungry! The despised food of the fo'c'sle, how I
would have welcomed it! I would have gone on deck
had I not been afraid of a most unmerciful trouncing if
I showed myself, but something must be done, for I
seemed to be literally starving. All at once I remem
bered there were some four or five hundred barrels of
apples in the lower hold, that were being shipped around
to New York as freight. Why could I not get some of
those apples? To think was to act. Climbing down into
the hold, the hatches being off between-decks, and knock
ing the head out of a barrel, I fiUed my pockets and shirt
aU around, climbed out of the hold and into my hawser,
and ate apples. Oh, how good they tasted!
After I had eaten my fill, it being yet early, I again
went to sleep. The storm had been succeeded by fine
weather, and the ship, under all canvas, was sailing
steadily towards her destination.
The starboard watch were on deck. Mr. Fabens, desiring
to strap a block, called old Tom, and gave him a measure,
teUing him to go below and cut off a piece of rope, as
per same, which he would find lying against the fo'c'sle
bulkhead. I had awakened, and was thinking what I
should do, when I was startled by footsteps slowly
advancing towards my retreat. I listened with bated
breath. When the footsteps had about reached me they
stopped, and I heard a kind of sawing noise. Curiosity
impelled me to peep out, and see who it was. Lifting my

DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 21
length out of the hawser, I bent over, just as old Tom
finished cutting off his piece of rope, and as he arose our
eyes met. I, being on the saUs and hawser, came some
what above him, and as I, being a little cold, had wrapped
around me a piece of canvas, I expect my appearance
was a bit startling.
With whitened face and bulging eyes he gazed at me
a moment, terror in every feature, then dropping rope
and knife, and emitting a series of blood-curdling yells
that rang through the ship, he dashed for the booby hatch,
and disappeared on deck. Every one was aroused, and
I could hear the second mate ask, " What's broke loose
with you? Where's that block strap? " but for answer
all old Tom could ejaculate was, " My God, I've seen him!
I've seen him! "
" Seen who? " yeUed Mr. Fabens, shaking him.
" Oh! his ghost! his ghost!"
" Whose ghost? What's the matter with you any
way? "
" Oh! that boy's ghost, Mr. Fabens," Tom replied.
It was plain old Tom was nearly frightened out of his
wits. " Mr. Fabens," said Captain King, " get a lantern,
take that man below, and see what scared him so."
Lighting a lantern, Mr. Fabens descended the ladder,
with half the crew at his back, Tom bringing up the rear.
As they came forward the second mate called out,
" Where's your ghost? I don't see any ghost. Where
did you see him? "
" Over that hawser," said Tom, pointing in my direc
tion. Up to now I had lain stUl, but feeling that I was dis
covered, I rose up to step out of the coU. My appearance
was greeted with, " There he is! There he is!" from

22 OCEAN LIFE
Tom, who with a yell again broke for the hatch ladder,
followed by half the men.
Mr. Fabens came up, put his lantern in my face, and
with an exclamation, reached over, and taking me by
the collar, lifted me out and marched me up on deck,
where I was at once surrounded by officers and crew,
the latter gazing at me as if doubtful whether I might
not be a spook.
Old Tom, suddenly awakened to the fact that he had
been fooled, and had made a donkey of himself, started
towards me, as if about to administer a cuff, when Mr.
Fabens, shoving him back, exclaimed, " You dare lay
a hand on that boy and I'll knock your head off ! "
Captain King, stepping forward, now addressed me
as follows: " Well, boy, where have you been, during
the past forty-eight hours? "
" Between decks, sir," I sheepishly answered.
" What have you been doing between decks all this
time? "
" Sleeping, sir," I answered.
" What! sleeping two days and nights? A mighty
fine booby you'd make."
(A booby is a bird that as soon as he alights on a
vessel drops sound asleep, instantly.)
" Not all the time, sir," I replied.
" Had anything to eat? What did you hve on? "
" Apples," I ventured.
" Apples, where did you get apples? "
" Out of the hold, sir. I got the head out of a barrel."
" Oh, you did! Do you know you've been broaching
cargo? " — and then, evidently thinking the farce had
gone far enough, as aU hands were on the broad grin,
the Captain said, sternly: —
" Now go for' ard, boy! and if you cut up any more

DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE 23
capers hke that you'U get a rope's-ending you'U remember
all your hfe," and turning to Mr. Fabens, he said, " Keep
that boy up in his day watch below for a week, and give
him plenty of work."
This ended his lecture, and I was glad it was over,
and that I had escaped so easily. Going forward with
the men, I was set to work, and, what pleased me, I could
see they bore me no iU feeling, not even Tom, although
in his case he might have been excused even had he done
so a little. They all seemed to show a kinder tone towards
me; there appearing to be a kind of satisfaction that I
was not drowned after all.
Being now all over my seasickness, and feeling strong
and hearty, I entered upon my work with a vim, and
soon won the good opinion of all by my wiUingness.
Nothing occurred of note until we neared the port of
New York. On the morning of the eighth day after leav
ing Newburyport, we took a pilot on board, and sailing
in past Sandy Hook, through the Narrows past Staten
Island, we came to anchor off the Battery. Shortly
after, a tug came alongside, taking us to the dock, where
the ship was made securely fast, after which the crew went
on shore to the sailors' boarding-houses, their time being
up, they only having signed articles for the run from
Newburyport to New York.
From one home port to another to load, it was cus
tomary to ship a crew by the run, to pay them a lump
sum, and not monthly wages, while all the work expected
of them was to look after the safety of the ship, handle
saUs, steer, keep lookouts, and keep ship clean under the
direction of the officers, and as they received their pay
in advance, as soon as the ship reached her port and
was made fast to the dock, they left.
This was the last I ever saw of old Tom and many

24 OCEAN LIFE
others, although several reshipped with us when we were
ready for sea; but of this later.
AU now remaining on board were the two officers, —
Captain King living at his hotel on shore, — the carpenter,
ship-keeper and myself, but in a few days our number
was augmented by one, the new boy, from Boston, who
had been brought on by his mother to join the ship.
" Abel " was rather older than myself, but not so
stout, although a good, sturdy boy. He was received and
welcomed by the carpenter and myself, who, having
made a voyage, considered ourselves old sailors, and
assumed a superior tone towards him, a green hand, who
had not passed through the dangers and perils of the
sea as we had, and what " yarns " we spun that boy,
seated in the fo'c'sle on our chests! His hair would almost
rise, and at times he seriously thought of returning to
Boston. I now had no thought of going back. There
was very little for us to do while in port, the days were
so short. We went up near the head of the wharf and
got our meals, seldom going any distance from the ship.
Meanwhile the cargo, consisting of flour in barrels, was
rapidly being taken on board.

CHAPTER III
1845 - 1846
THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL.  JACK AFLOAT AND ASHORE
In due course the " Ariel " completed her lading. A new
crew was shipped, this time for the long voyage, fifteen
months being the limit of time as written in the articles,
and the last of December, 1845, the year of the great
famine in Ireland, we sailed for Liverpool, England.
The voyage across the Atlantic was wild and stormy.
Gale succeeded gale, with furious squalls of snow and
haU, but being mostly from the western quarter, gave us
a fair wind, before which the good ship scudded under
close-reefed topsails and reefed foresail right royally, and
although a very heavy sea was experienced, no damage
was sustained; the "Ariel" proving herself a splendid
sea boat.
During the passage I never missed my watch on deck
in aU weathers. Abel, however, was not so fortunate,
being confined to his berth the entire passage, and not
untu we were in St. George's Channel did he make his
appearance on deck. The officers, being occupied in
looking after the safety of the ship, gave very little
attention to him, thinking no doubt, sick as he was, he
was better below than on deck, in such weather as we
were having.
Arriving in the chops of the Channel, we passed a
26

26 OCEAN LIFE
number of vessels, many of them showing the effects of
the hard winter passage across.
One, the "Concordia " of the line of New York Packet
ships, that saUed before we did, had lost some of her spars,
the cargo (grain) had shifted, and she was Usted to port
very badly.
The following morning the ship was close in under
Holyhead, Wales. It opened bright and sunny, though
cool. The sea was smooth. The great headland, standing
out in bold relief, with its quaint old windmills, and
dotted with numerous dweUings, formed a beautiful
picture, while the many crafts of all descriptions spread
out in every direction, completed a panorama of wondrous
beauty, especially so to us boys, who looked upon it for
the first time.
Abel made his appearance on deck looking pale, but
under the invigorating air and surroundings rapidly
pulled himself together, and at once entered upon his
duties. That morning ended his seasickness for good.
One amusing thing in connection with Abel's sickness
occurred during the passage over. As a general thing
seasickness meets with very little sympathy in a ship's
fo'c'sle. The members of the crew do not look with
pitying eye on the victim of mal de mer. Indeed they
rather regard him as one inclined to shirk his work, but
in Abel's case they were very easy with him, and did
not encourage him to get up and go on deck. This seemed
strange, as in those days Jack was not inclined to be
lenient with a green boy, or show him any favors, but
there was a reason for all this apparent kindness. Abel
was finely fitted out with plenty of warm clothing, monkey
jacket, oilskin suits, several pairs of sea boots, sou'westers,
warm neck comforters, etc., etc.
Among the crew were several old packet sailors, a

THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 27
class who, whUe good enough seamen, are not over
burdened with warm, comfortable clothing, the attractions
of New York and Liverpool taking aU their wages, and
warm clothing being a secondary consideration with them
until they get to sea and find themselves on a topsail yard,
face to face with a wild howhng nor'wester, freezing them
to the marrow, with squalls of snow or haU beating upon
them, and then they would bemoan the fact that they
had not taken their hard-earned money, and bought
what would have benefited them in times hke these,
instead of throwing all away in dissipation; but their
regrets generally came too late and they rarely gained
wisdom by experience.
To these saUors Abel's outfit was a God-send, and they
did not scruple to help themselves, or to borrow anything
he had that they could use and wear; arguing that as
he could not wear them, and they were doing his work,
the least he could do was to let them wear his clothes.
His mother never would have recognized a large part
of his outfit by the time the ship arrived in Liver
pool. Taking a pilot on board and entering the Irish Sea,
we reached the lightship that night, and in beating up
to it with a strong wind we were kept at quarters, making
short tacks.
The boys, ordinary seamen and carpenter were stationed
at the bra;ces of the after yards (the yards on the mizzen-
mast) to brace round at the command of " Mainsail
haul! " the carpenter throwing off the braces, while the
boys swung round the yards.
The night was dark, and when nearly up to the lightship,
Abel took a notion that he could assist the carpenter,
and, unperceived, crossed to the other side of the deck.
On the order being given to brace round the after yards,

28 OCEAN LIFE
he threw off the belaying-pin, not the braces, but the main
topsail halliards, and down thundered the topsaU yard
upon the cap.
" Who's let go those topsaU haUiards? " shouted the
pilot, and the captain and officers used language that
would not appear well in print. Abel was scared out of
his wits, and received a most unmerciful cuffing, whUe
aU hands tailed on to the topsail haUiards, and the yard
was again mastheaded.
In the morning we entered the Mersey, passing the
Rock Light, and at high water docked the ship in the
" Waterloo," one of the numerous docks in the great
port of Liverpool.
Stevedores came on board, and preparations were made
for the discharge of our cargo.
At the time of which I write, the rules and regulations
of the Liverpool docks were very different from what
they are at the present day. Then no fires or lights were
allowed on board. On shore, near the docks, were a great
number of boarding-houses, which catered to the ships'
trade. Here the crews obtained their meals, and morning,
noon and night might have been seen the crews of all
the different ships in port, going and returning to their
breakfasts, dinners and suppers.
The days being very short in winter, the men got their
breakfast by gaslight, returning to their ship by nine
o'clock, and knocking off work by four, or perhaps earlier,
in the afternoon, after which the decks were cleaned up,
and Jack went to supper, being a free man until the next
morning. As there was no light on board, they generaUy spent the
evenings in the numerous singing-houses or dance-halls
that lined the streets adjoining the docks, and here Jack
found congenial company, both male and female, who, as

THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 29
long as he had a shUUng, were ready to share his pot of
beer, " half and half," or something stronger.
There, in these " free and easys," he smoked his pipe,
listening to the continuous songs, and the music and
performance going on, until about the hour of midnight.
When they closed their doors he wended his way on
board to turn into his berth in the darkness.
The mates and petty officers also had their separate
places of evening resort. The habitues of Playhouse
Square, the mate's and second mate's quarters, would
have no more thought of lowering themselves by
visiting " Rossbottom's " on Waterloo Road, than Bea
con Street, Boston, would assimilate with the North
End. The captain, of course, lived at his hotel, and came
and went at his own sweet will. All these boarding-
houses set a good table, and Jack lived well, although
the table in the officers' quarters was superior in the
quality and variety of the food served. The boys, with
the carpenter, took their meals at the officers' boarding-
house, but we did not see them, having a room to our
selves. We had been but a few days in dock, when Captain
King came on board one morning, and informed me that
my uncle (Mr. Wm. Courtis), who lived in Manchester
with his family and was engaged in business there, had
written him asking permission for me to visit them while
the ship remained in port. He added that I could go if
I wished. Replying that I should be pleased to do so,
I was exempted from further work, and getting into
presentable shape by putting on my best clothes, I went
to the station the foUowing morning and took the express
to Manchester, arriving about 10.30 A.' m.
Meeting my uncle at the station, he caUed a cab and

30 OCEAN LIFE
we drove to his house, where I received a warm welcome
from my aunt and two cousins.
Three weeks in Manchester, visiting, with my uncle
and his famUy, aU places of interest, made my stay most
thoroughly enjoyable. On my return I was accompanied
by him, as he had business in Liverpool. He improved
the opportunity to visit the ship and make the acquaint
ance of Captain King. After his departure I resumed
my duties and again fell into the routine of ship's boy.
As it would be a week yet before the " Ariel " woiUd be
ready for sea, whenever we could get away from the ship,
I improved the time, with Abel, strolling about, and
seeing all we could of the city.
Now came the day of saihng or departure from the
docks, the ship being bound for Canton, China, in ballast,
to load teas for the port of New York.
All being in readiness for sea, stores on board, and two
men shipped to take the places of two deserters, about
the middle of March the crew warped the ship through
the docks into the basin, where she lay waiting for the
full tide and the tugboat, to proceed to sea.
The gates being opened, the tugboat made fast, with
three ringing cheers responded to by friends of the crew
who had assembled to see them off, the " Ariel " passed
through the pier heads into the River Mersey, and was
again outward bound.
Down the river, past the shipping at anchor, away
past the Rock Light at the entrance of the river, into the
Irish Sea, past Point Linas until Holyhead was reached,
thus insuring a good offing; when saU was made, the
tugboat hawsers were cast off, good-bys exchanged,
and the tow boat took her departure to look up another
vessel to take into port.
With a fair wind and ratthng breeze, a fine run was

THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL 31
made down channel, and passing Tusker Light, old
Kinsale and Cape Clear, we were soon again on the broad
Atlantic, bound south for the region of the trade winds
and a warm climate.

CHAPTER IV
1846
CROSSING THE LINE. — FERNANDO NOROHNA. — THE
MALAYS
Favored with strong northerly gales, the " Ariel " swept
past Madeira under reefed topsails, and entered the belt
of northeast trade winds. The weather was now dehght
ful, continuous fresh breezes, gradually lessening in force
as we approached their southern hmit. Passing the group
of Azores Islands, with the Peak of Pico, on the island of
that name, 7,000 feet in height, and the Canaries, with
Teneriffe towering above the clouds, we continued on
until we lost them in latitude 5° north. The region of
northeast trade winds lies between the paraUels of 30°
north and the equator, although their northern and
southern limits vary with the seasons; ships sometimes
carrying strong trades within three or four degrees of the
equator, and again losing them as high as 10° north.
Through these trades is most delightful sailing; steady,
fine, fresh breezes, clear skies, bright and sunny; warm,
but not too much so, soft patches of light fleecy clouds
hanging around the horizon, called trade clouds, water
a glorious deep blue, alive with shoals of flying-fish,
skipjacks, bonitas and albacore, the former rising in
immense shoals close to the ship, and with a whirr like
a covey of partridges away they go skimming to wind'ard,
32

CROSSING THE LINE 33
their wings glinting and glistening in the bright sunlight
for a thousand yards or so, when they drop to wet their
wings, only to reappear in a moment. They formed
one of the prettiest pictures, that one never wearied in
watching. The flying-fish affords fine eating, having a flavor
similar to a fresh sardine, and is one of the finest pan fish
that swims.
We had now reached the belt of light, variable winds,
calms and squalls, with thunder, lightning, and heavy
rains, the last enabling us to fill our empty water casks.
Fortunately we were not long in crossing this belt, and
striking the southeast trades in latitude 1° north, we
crossed the equator and entered the South Atlantic.
The visit of Neptune and his wife on board was for some
reason deferred, much to the relief of us boys and the
carpenter, who was also on his first voyage.
In the old days it was customary on ships, more par
ticularly those flying the British flag, to observe the
crossing of the line or equator for the first time by any
one on board, by making it a special occasion, and cele
brating it as a gala day. Extra grog was served out to
the crew, etc. All this was in honor of King Neptune,
who was to pay a visit to the ship, in company with his
wife Amphitrite, to see if there were any on board, either
passengers or crew, who were invading his special domain
without having been properly initiated. The green hands
had the fact that they were entering the domain of these
mythical personage impressed upon them as a reality,
and for weeks their minds were filled with the terrors of
the ordeal they would have to pass through.
The cabin passengers who were liable could purchase
immunity by money or a few bottles of grog, but woe
betide the hapless boy, or green hand, who was making

34 OCEAN LIFE
his first trip across the equator, old Neptune's home
and undisputable possession.
On the morning of the day the ship was to cross the
line, these unfortunate victims were blindfolded and shut
up untu wanted, but were placed where they could hear
all that was going on. Preparations were then begun
for the reception of His Majesty and His Better Half.
Two old grizzled shellbacks were selected from among
the crew to act the parts of Neptune and wife. They
were painted and decked out in the most fantastic garb,
by the crew. They had lotig, flowing hair and whiskers
of rope-yarns and oakum, resembling seaweed, and a
crown made from Manila strands and shells, scraps of
steel, or iron. Then with the ship's big trumpet, and
the five-pronged grains used for catching dolphins or
skipjacks, as his trident, his outfit was complete. His
spouse was similarly rigged out. Taking their stations
over the bows in the head, one of the crew would go out
to the end of the flying jib boom with the trumpet and
hail the ship, asking her name and where from, ending by
stating that His Majesty King Neptune was about to
pay the ship a visit, and all hands would prepare to receive
both him and his queen Amphitrite.
A half-hogshead of water would have been prepared,
with a platform alongside, on which was a chair for
seating the candidate for maritime honors. A slush
bucket filled with an odorous mixture of slush and tar,
using an old paint brush for a shaving brush, with a piece
of notched iron hoop for a razor, constituted the shaving
outfit. All being in readiness, the candidate, stiU blindfolded,
was led forward and seated in the chair. Neptune and
Amphitrite would then appear, dripping with sea water,
which had been previously poured over them to give

CROSSING THE LINE 35
them the appearance of just having emerged from old
ocean. Neptune then propounded to the intruders a
series of the most ridiculous questions, ending by ordering
him to be shaved and initiated as one of his children in
due form; the candidate continuing blindfolded until
after his involuntary bath.
Then foUowed the lathering and shaving, which was
of a pretty rough order, but if the poor fellow opened
his mouth to utter a protest, it was instantly filled with
a brushful of the unsavory lather, amid the delight and
jeers of his tormentors. The shaving completed, whUe
answering questions his chair would be jerked away, and
he would fall, floundering, into the hogshead of water,
after which he was aUowed to scramble out, would be
given a stiff glass of grog to drink Neptune's health, be
permitted to make himself presentable and go his way or
take part in the initiation of the next victim. The custom
in these days even on foreign ships has become obsolete.
Continuing south, close-hauled, we passed in plain
sight of Fernando Norohna, a small, high island off the
Brazil coast. That government uses it as a penal settle
ment, sending hither all its convicts. Here under vigorous
discipline they have little chance of escape.
Past Pernambueo and Bahia we continued along the
Brazil coast, until we reached the parallel of 23° south,
and entered the belt of sou'west passage winds. These
winds blow almost continuously from the western quarter,
varjdng from W. N. W. to W. S. W. As the ship draws
out of the trade belt the wind gradually hauls round by
way of the north, aUowing the vessel to come up to her
course for the Cape of Goqd Hope, crossing the meridian
of the Cape on a paraUel of 38° to 40° south and some
times higher.
Being now in the region of the strong west passage

36 OCEAN LIFE
winds, the " Ariel " fairly flew before them on her long
eastern stretch upwards of 5,000 miles, nearly to the coast
of Australia, before again turning north.
During this long run from the Cape of Good Hope to
the rocky islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam, there was
very little work going on except looking after the ship,
hands continually standing by the topsail haUiards,
clewing down by the run in the furious hail squalls which
would come with hurricane force, almost beating one
to the deck, with sky nearly as black as night.
This would last perhaps for ten or fifteen minutes,
when, presto! the squall would pass, clouds sweep away,
while the sun would appear, lighting up the crest of the
surges that roUed past. The instant the squall was over
topsaUs were again mastheaded, and with great moun
tainous bUlows tumbling after, at times seeming about
to engulf her, the " Ariel " sped onward like a frightened
deer. Day after day, and week after week, this continued,
until we reached the meridian, when we could once again
turn to the north'ard, and entering the region of the
trade winds of the Indian Ocean, shape our course for
Java Head.
FaUing in with the southeast trades, the " Ariel " made
fine progress, until, coming on deck one morning in the
middle watch, I found the ship hove to for dayhght, but
with the first peep of dawn she was again put upon her
course. At ten a. m. (four bells) the welcome cry of
" Land, ho! " rang through the ship, and all eyes were
at once strained to catch the first glimpse of terra firvm.
Presently from the deck could be seen the outlines of a
bold headland, every moment becoming more distinct
as the ship sped onward towards it.
All was now bustle and preparation for closing in with

CROSSING THE LINE 37
the land and entering the Straits of Sunda. Chain cables
were hauled on deck after their long rest in the lockers,
and bent, lashings cast off, and anchors placed on the
bows. Meantime we were drawing in with the land, and
from a mere outline it now began to assume shape and
color. By three o'clock we had closed in with it and
entered Sunda Straits.
SaUing northerly along the coast from Java Head, the
land is high, and covered with dense forests having rich
tropical foliage. The ship was well in under the shore,
and I thought I could never tire of gazing at it.
About dusk the land breeze came off, sweeping over
the ship, laden with the fragrance of tropical fruits and
flowers so heavy with perfume as to almost intoxicate
the senses. This, mingled with the fresh earthy smell, to
which we had so long been strangers, was inhaled in deep
draughts. Java Head, and my first night in Sunda Straits,
remain to-day impressed upon my memory. With day
light, boats from Anger met us and dropped alongside,
while the crews, composed of Malays, scrambled over
the raUs like cats. They were trading boats laden with
tropical fruits: green cocoanuts, bananas, oranges,
Umes, also vegetables, — yams, sweet potatoes, strings
of onions and garlic; in short, all vegetables grown in
the tropics, with ducks, geese, chickens, fowls, goats,
pigs, and many other things, all tempting enough to men
who had been deprived of fresh grub as long as we had.
The Malays comprising the boat crews were a source
of great interest to me. A smaU, undersized class of men,
tawny, with coal-black hair and small, piercing eyes,
well formed and featured, active and springy, as nimble
as cats, they sprang from their boats up the ship's side
and swarmed on board, the captain, or serang, making
his way aft, where stood Captain King and officers.

38 OCEAN LIFE
With a bland smile and salaaming to the deck, be
presented his " chit " or recommendation given him by
the ships that he had supplied while passing Anger, and
endorsing him as the one man who could supply all the
next ship's needs. There is great rivalry between these
boats, but as far as the ships are concerned it is generaUy
" first come, first served."
It is amusing to see the serang bowing and smiUng while
the captain is reading over his recommendations, which
he cannot do himself, in many cases denouncing him as
a swindling cheat, and the greatest scoundrel that ever
went unhung. Of course they are mostly written as a
joke, and are so taken by the reader, and no more notice
being taken of it, he gets permission to trade, although
there may be others. This amounts to considerable,
as, besides fruit and vegetables, live stock is taken on
board in quantities to supply the ship with fresh pro
visions, fore and aft, for the voyage up the China Sea,
it being more economical, at the prices, to feed the men
on fresh meat, saving the salt beef and pork; so Jack
lives high, on fresh grub with vegetables daily.
The weather being fine, the " Ariel " ran into the road
stead, coming to anchor off the town or viUage. Large
suppUes were taken on board, of fruit, vegetables, and
live stock. Never before having tasted bananas, and in
fact very little of fruit grown in the tropics, they were a
revelation to me, and when the first boat boarded us in
the early morning, I traded with a Malay an old pair
of trousers for a big bunch, and, taking it into the
fo'c'sle, for four or five days I ate little else.
While at anchor Captain King went ashore in his gig,
and to my delight I was ordered as one of the boat's
crew. This gave me an opportunity of seeing a little of
Malay life on shore. We wandered around among the

CROSSING THE LINE 39
houses or huts, constructed of bamboo with thatched
roofs, while swarms of women and children, the latter
clad in sunlight only, gazed curiously at us, but we could
understand each other by sign language alone.
The following morning getting under way and passing
between Sumatra and the N. W. end of the island of
Java, we entered the Java Sea, shaping our course for
Gaspar Straits.
The Java Sea and Malay Archipelago were at this
time infested with pirates, who, in their long, sharp proas,
were constantly dodging about, looking for some craft
that should be so unfortunate as to run ashore on any of
the numerous coral reefs or sand banks that abounded
in these waters, and woe betide the ship that was caught
at anchor in the night time in any of the straits, or
passages, with the watch on deck asleep; in which case,
although not a thing may have been in sight when she
came to anchor, towards morning there would silently
steal out of the darkness a fleet of proas, each manned
by forty or fifty Malays, perhaps more, and once along
side with their deadly creese or knife between their teeth,
swarming up the ship's side, in a twinkling they would
be on deck, and before the dazed watch could realize
it, those not murdered would be driven below, and the
ship in their possession, to be plundered and perhaps
burnt, while all who escaped would be taken on shore,
kept in confinement and held for a good round ransom.
Ships in these v/aters always carried a good armory
on board, consisting of muskets, pistols, cutlasses, and
boarding-pikes, and generally two or four large guns on
deck, in the use of which the crew were carefully trained.
This did not often occur, however, with American or
English ships, as the rascals were generaUy too cautious
to attack a ship in daylight, or under sail, or one that

40 OCEAN LIFE
they knew was on the alert. In these days their pirating
is about over, the men-of-war of the Dutch and English
governments having about exterminated them, showing
no mercy.

CHAPTER V
1846
BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER. — LOADING TEAS. 
HOMEWARD BOUND
Through Gaspar, past Singapore, we continued through
the China Sea, and in due course came to anchor in the
Canton River off " Bambootown," Whampoa, a boat
town on the river some ten or twelve miles below Canton.
These boat towns are curious. Here people are born,
hve, and die, without hardly ever being on shore, living
mostly on rice and fish caught from the river. They
attend on the shipping, doing the washing for the officers
and crews.
Coming to an anchor, our sails were smoothly furled,
and the ship moored for a long stay.
The foUowing morning a boat was got ready with a
crew of picked men, and Captain King left for the city
of Canton, returning in two days and bringing a gentleman
with him.
The " Ariel," being in ballast with no cargo to dis
charge, was soon ready to receive her cargo of teas, to
be sent down from Canton in lighters, or cargo boats, ,
and in a week or ten days the first boats came alongside,
and were speedily unloaded, others taking their places
until our lading was completed. The tea-chests, com
posed of whole chests, halves and quarters, neat and
41

42 OCEAN LIFE
clean, were encased in matting and marked with the
ship's name, " Ariel."
During our stay the crew were aUowed liberty on Sun
day, one watch at a time, but there was very little to
attract on shore, and the crew after one trip preferred
to remain on board, or visit the crew of the ship " Chi
cora," that was anchored within a half-mUe.
Abel and myself were not allowed to go on shore
at all, it being, in the opinion of the captain, no place
for boys, and he was right, no doubt, although we
did not see it in that Ught, thinking it a great hard
ship. Our cargo completed. Captain King came down from
Canton, bringing with him two gentlemen, who were to
make the home voyage with us as passengers.
The ship was unmoored, chain hove short, sail made,
anchor tripped and hove to bows, and with her nose
pointing down river passed the "Chicora," whose crew
gave us three hearty cheers, which were responded to
by our men with a will.
This time the " Ariel " was homeward bound!
A pleasant run down the China Sea brought us to the
Straits of Banca. Through these we passed, coming to
anchor at night to await for daylight.
Being now in dangerous waters, a vigilant watch was
kept for pirates; guns were loaded, and all prepared to
give them a warm reception should they make us a call,
but the night passed without seeing anything, and at
the first peep of daylight we were again under way.
At Anger, however, I learned that a ship passing Banca
some two or three days ahead of us had been attacked
while lying at anchor during the night, but the pirates
were beaten off, the cook sustaining the loss of an ear
while giving them a deluge of scalding water from his

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 43
coppers, which he had filled and under which he had
kept a good fire in anticipation of their attack.
Here, at Anger, we again stocked up with fruits, vege
tables, and live stock of all kinds, for the homeward
voyage. Leaving Java, our decks were filled with coops which
were stuffed with chickens, fowl, geese and ducks, while
pigs and goats filled the pens.
Added to all this, every man forward had his pet
monkey, sometimes two or three, while cages, hanging
from every point to which they could be attached, were
filled with Java sparrows, cockatoos, and birds of every
variety of plumage; but very few were destined to reach
New York.
In addition to the fo'c'sle stock there were two very
large Sumatra monkeys, of a dirty yellow color, standing
between three and four feet high. These were kept
chained in the stern of the long-boat, and belonged to
the two passengers. Some of the monkeys forward were
of a good size, but most of them were small. They were
a source of great amusement, constantly cutting up all
sorts of antics, and being very mischievous, would steal
anything they could lay their hands or paws on. As
Jack did not tie them up, they swarmed all over the ship's
rigging, and if anything on deck took their fancy, they
would drop down, seize it, and be aloft again, almost
impossible to catch, as they would spring from point to
point, chattering and scolding at a great rate. This
propensity for thieving cost most of them their lives.
One day the steward had taken the dinner to the cabin
table, leaving it to go to the galley. No one was below,
and it being warm, the skylight over the table was off.
Two of the larger monkeys were about the after rigging.
They had apparently been watching the steward, and

44 OCEAN LIFE
seeing the coast clear, descended, dropping down through
the skyhght, and seizing a pair of chickens, on which the
captain and passengers were to dine, they sprang on
deck, and in a twinkUng were aloft, just as the steward
returned from announcing dinner. On entering the cabin
the chickens were missed, and looking up, the scamps
were discovered in the mizzen top, chattering and grin
ning, while they looked down at their pursuers. Several
men had jumped into the rigging to catch them, but their
efforts were of no avail; the monkeys were too nimble,
and finally running out on a yard arm, dropped the
chickens, one going overboard, and the other on deck
in a condition hardly fit for the captain's table.
This theft angered Captain King, and sealed their
doom, for, after finishing in the cabin, the captain and
passengers brought up their pistols on the quarter-deck,
and a fusillade began, which picked off monkeys in all
directions, many going overboard, until not a Jocko
was seen about the rigging. Then the order was given
that all monkeys that were not kept tied up should be
served in the same manner.
This action of Captain King's almost produced a mutiny.
The owners of the monkeys that were shot were furious,
looking upon the action as cruel and unjustifiable, and
many an oath was registered to get even some day, and
two weeks after, when we turned to one morning to wash
down decks, the big monkeys in the long-boat were both
found dead, having been strangled during the night by
some one, whom, no one ever knew, although a reward
was offered for the perpetrator. After this, matters
quieted down, Jack taking care to keep his pets tied up,
but most of them succumbed to the bad weather off the
Cape of Good Hope, and only two reached New York
safely.

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 45
After leaving Java, Charles Johnson, one of the
crew, was taken down with fever, and that scourge
of the East, dysentery. Day after day he grew worse,
and from a strong, well-built man fell away to a mere
shadow. He had been removed from the close fo'c'sle, and a
bed was made for him in the bow of the long-boat, where
he could have plenty of air. He would lie there all day
long reading his Bible, and when off duty the various
members of the crew would watch with and read to him,
when he became too weak to read himself. Everything
was done for him, but in vain. He was fully at peace
and longed to go, and one bright, beautiful morning,
Johnson's soul took its flight.
After breakfast his wasted body was taken from the
long-boat, sewn up in his hammock, and placed on a
plank extending from a cask to the rail amidships. The
American ensign was placed over him. All being in
readiness, the main yard was thrown aback, and all
hands called to bury the dead. Sadly, the crew mustered
in the ship's waist, grouped around the corpse, with two
standing at the head of the plank, and one on either side,
the officers at the head awaiting Captain King, who,
accompanied by the passengers, presently emerged from
the cabin door, prayer-book in hand. Advancing, he
took his station at the head, and read the beautiful
burial service for the dead at sea. It was a solemn seene,
and tears glistened in the eyes of many of the crew, for
Johnson was a favorite with all.
With the words, " We commit the body to the deep,"
the end of the plank was lifted, and the hammock,
heavily weighted at the end, slid down, and, with a splash,
the blue sea closed over all that remained of our ship
mate, while the ord$r to " FiU away the main topsaU! "

46 OCEAN LIFE
brought us back to a reaUzation that all was over, and
our messmate gone forever.
We lost one other under the same circumstances, —
fever and dysentery, — committing him to old odean ere
we were up with Madagascar.
With fine, strong, trade winds bowhng us along, passing
the south end of Madagascar, and later the meridian of
the Cape of Good Hope, nothing of note, except the two
deaths before mentioned, occurred during our run through
the Indian Ocean. Doubling the Cape with a fair wind,
and hugging the land which was in plain sight from Cape
Agulhas to Table Bay, the " Ariel " again entered the
south Atlantic, shaping her course for St. Helena and
the S. E. trades.
Up to this point I have made very little mention of the
work at sea on shipboard. I have often been asked the
question, " What do sailors have to do at sea, with a fair
wind and fine weather? "
To this query I answer: In every well regulated
ship a sailor has no idle moments, except in his watch
below, and on holidays; chafing gear, of which there are
large quantities, is being constantly worn out and has
to be replaced with new, all of which, in addition to spun
yarn, sennit, mats, rugs, fancy work for capstan covers,
and many other things, are made on shipboard by the
crew, while sail making and repairing, work on standing
rigging, setting up and turning in, tarring, painting, with
tricks at the wheel, and lookouts, making and taking in
sail and attendance to general orders, do not leave much
spare time on Jack's hands when on duty, and the officer
who cannot find work enough to keep his men constantly
employed is lacking in a knowledge of his business.
This was not often the case at the time of which I write.
The " Ariel's " rigging being new on her departure

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 47
from her home port, it took about all the outward voyage
to get the stretch out of it, whUe luff, and watch tackles,
were in almost constant use, but now being pretty well
out, it was ready to be turned in afresh, and put in a
condition that is pleasing to a sailor's eye, also to present
a fine, shipshape appearance on arrival in port. To one
not versed in these matters, it is almost impossible to
understand the labor and care bestowed upon every httle
detaU of this work, and from the time we rounded the
Cape and took the S. E. trades it was all hands at work,
no more afternoon watch below.
Up to this time I had never been allowed to take my
regular turn at steering the ship, although I had often
stood at night on the lee side of the wheel, and in good
weather I frequently steered the ship by the hour together,
under the guidance and eye of the helmsman. I knew the
compass, and could box it (repeat it backward) as readily
as I could count my fingers, but had never been left alone
in charge of the wheel. I was now ordered to take my
regular trick, the same as others of the ship's company,
being often kept at the wheel four hours, instead of
two, when the one who followed me was engaged on
some special work.
I loved to steer the ship, and in a short time became
an expert helmsm'an. What glorious weather one experi
ences within the Umits of these trade winds! — a long
swell that kept the " Ariel " gently roUing from side to
side, the wind being nearly dead aft, steady trades, not
varying a half-point day after day and week after week,
no squalls, no sails to trim, only an occasional pull at
the halliards to bowse everything taut, wind not over
strong, but enough to bowl the ship along from seven
to eight knots per hour, a cloudless sky o'erhead, with
the exception of the light fleecy trade clouds that con-

48 OCEAN LIFE
stantly hung around the horizon, and bright, warm sun
shine every day, whUe the nights were resplendent with
the briUiancy of the consteUations of the southern hemi
sphere. This was indeed ideal saihng. The sunrises and
sunsets were beautiful almost beyond description, and
often, while nt the wheel, I would become so absorbed
in watching the glory of the departing day, with its gor
geousness of color, as old Sol sank to his ocean bed, that
I would almost forget my duties until a glance at the
compass would bring me to a realization that the " Ariel "
was from a half to a point off her course.
Under a cloud of canvas, with stun'sails spread alow
and aloft, the ship swept steadily on, passing close to St.
Helena, that small rocky islet, distinguished as being
the prison home of the great Napoleon, on, past Ascension
Island, untu we again crossed the equator, and entered
the home waters of the north Atlantic.
During all this long run, the work of the crew upon
the rigging went steadUy on. I was placed under the
various members of the crew, while at their respective
tasks, acting as an assistant or helper, soon becoming
quite proficient in the knowledge of knotting, splicing,
and serving, etc., picking up from the men, by close
observation and attention to the manner of doing their
work, the knowledge that is so necessary to a thorough
seaman. Herein hes the advantage of long voyages to
the young man commencing a seafaring life. He may
go a lifetime in the western ocean trade or on short
voyages, and yet see none of the work that is done on a
ship bound home from India or China, while roUing down
the trades between the Cape of Good Hope and the
equator, or very little of it, much less participate in it.
All this work on vessels making short trips is generaUy
done by riggers whUe lying in port, and their work does

LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA, PRISON HOME OF NAPOLEON

nOTOFOGO B.4Y, AND PEAKS OF GABIA AND CORCOV.4.DA, RIO DE
JANEIRO [,S-,Y- piKje 268

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 49
not carry the neatness of detail and finish of that done
on shipboard. Look over a ship fresh from the rigger's
hands, and one just in from Calcutta or Hongkong,
and the eye quickly notes the difference between the
two in the appearance of their rigging.
All through this fine weather, during my forenoon watch
below, I was obliged to go aft and study navigation. In
this I became quite interested, getting a good theoretical
knowledge of the rules, and in a short time could keep
dead reckoning, work the latitude by a noon observation
and longitude by chronometer time, but was not allowed
as yet to handle the quadrant or sextant, or take an
observation myself, which I longed to do, and mentally
resolved that on my next voyage I would have a quadrant
of my own.
Encountering no calms, we passed from the S. E. to
the N. E. trades of the north Atlantic, every day's run
bringing us nearer New York, while at night the single
stars and constellations greeted us like old familiar faces,
the North Star bidding us the first welcome as it twinkled
on the horizon's edge. At each watch below, especially
the dog-watch, the conversation was principally on future
plans when they should arrive in New York, whom they
would board with, where they would go, and how dispose
of their wages, — which amounted to a good round sum
by this time, — interspersed with reminiscences of past
experience. Being now fairly within the trades, came " rattling
down," tarring rigging, and painting ship outside and in.
This work completed, we were now north of the West
India Islands, fast approaching the latitude of Bermuda.
Here we looked for a change of weather, and thick clothing
was got out and overhauled. Each night, as the watch
gathered in the fo'c'sle, would be repeated the old couplet:

60 OCEAN LIFE
" If Bermuda let you pass,
Look out for Cape Hatteras."
It seemed to be a fixed fact that we were bound to
catch a big gale off one or the other, but there is another
old saying, " A watched pot never boils," so, in this
case anticipating both, we got neither, but favored by
strong southerly and westerly winds, with good clear
weather, the " Ariel " passed the Gulf Stream and struck
soundings in seventy fathoms.
Chains up, anchors were again got ready, and the
following night we took a pilot on board, and before
reaching the Highlands of Navesink we took a tugboat,
passed the Hook and Staten Island, where the quarantine
officers boarded but did not detain us, and finally dropped
anchor off the Battery, our long voyage ended.
Sails having been unbent on our way up in tow of
the tug, we were speedily placed alongside of the pier
in the East River.
No sooner were we berthed than the runners from
the various sailor boarding-houses swarmed on board to
induce the men to put up with them, each one extolling
the merits of his own particular house, — frequently
enforcing his claims with spirited arguments in the shape
of a small flask drawn from the hip pocket, — and in
less than an hour the ship was deserted by all save the
officers, the carpenter, Abel, and myself.
The following morning the captain left word on board
that the crew would be paid off the next day. This over,
I accepted an invitation from Captain Michael Gregory,
of Marblehead, with whom I had fallen in, to make the
trip to Boston on his vessel, the brig " Mary Ellen,"
and the following morning, bidding adieu to the " Ariel,"
I went on board the brig, sailing that afternoon through
Hell Gate and Long Island Sound, past Nantucket, over

BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER 51
the shoals, rounded the Highland Light, and after a
little brush in the bay arrived safely in Boston. Taking
the train to Marblehead, I met on my arrival with a
warm welcome from my sister and the family, but learned
with sorrow of my grandmother's death.
My old schoolmates gave me quite an ovation, regard
ing me as one to be envied, having made a voyage to
Europe and China, being absent over a year.

CHAPTER VI
1846 - 1847
RIO DE JANEIRO.  CAPE HORN.  OTAHEITE
A MONTH on shore, and I shipped as ordinary seaman
on the " Tsar," a fine ship of nearly seven hundred tons,
just home from Russia, where the ship had been presented
with a set of sUk colors by the Emperor Nicholas I.,
as a compliment for the name. Her first voyage com
pleted, she was bound to the north and south Pacific,
thence to China. At that time she was considered a large
ship, carrying a crew of twenty forward, — including two
ordinary seamen, and four boys making their first voyage,
— captain (Captain Samuel Kenneday), first and second
officers, cook, steward, and carpenter, twenty-six all
told. SaUing from Boston, in the spring of '46, the " Tsar "
made a good run to the equator, crossing the same and
taking the S. E. trades (fresh), arrived at Rio Janeiro
forty-five days from Boston.
The land from Cape Frio to the entrance of the bay
runs about east and west. Cape Frio being a very high
headland, surmounted by a fine lighthouse. The coast,
as one approaches the entrance of the bay, bears a strong
resemblance to the figure of an immense man lying upon
his back, the peaks of the Gabia and Corcovada with the
high hills forming the upper portion of the body, while
52

RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 53
the Sugar Loaf Mountain on the west side of the bay forms
his feet. The contour is perfect when viewed from the
right direction. Off the entrance lie two small islands
named Pai and Mai. The bay of Rio Janeiro is one of
the largest and finest in the world. I shall have occasion
to refer to the city and its noble bay later on. The scenery
as viewed from the ship was magnificent.
Failing to reach the entrance before the sea breeze
ended, we were obliged to remain outside the harbor aU
night. About 8 p. m. the land breeze struck off in a strong
gust, with squalls of wind and rain, accompanied with
peals of thunder and vivid lightning, clearing away
after midnight, followed by calm.
Taking the sea breeze in the morning, passing the
islands and Sugar Loaf on the port hand, the fort of
Santa Cruz on our right, — from which we were hailed
as to the port we came from, if all were well on board,
etc., — thence past the upper forts, we dropped anchor
opposite the city a little below the island of Cobras,
where one of the finest dry docks in the world, belonging
to the Brazilian government, is now located. Here the
doctor came on board, but finding no sickness, and a
clean bUl of health, admitted her to pratique, allowing
communication with the shore.
Quite a number of vessels lay at anchor, among them
several men-of-war. They were of different nationalities,
and I noted the American flag floating from many peaks.
While in port no one visited the shore except the
captain. I was one of the boat's crew but was not allowed
to leave the boat while waiting for him.
After a stay of four days, the anchor was again weighed,
and taking advantage of the land breeze early in the
morning, we took our departure from Rio Janeiro, answer
ing the haU from Santa Cruz, and outside of Pai and Mai

54 OCEAN LIFE
Islands caught the sea breeze again and were speeding
our way south.
Off the Rio de la Plata we experienced a strong pam
pero, which blew with great force. These pamperos are
violent gales that sweep the plains of Buenos Ayres.
They are preceded by heavy thunder and most vivid
lightning, and on shore by a dense cloud of fine impalpable
dust, — that would penetrate anything that water would
go through, — with haUstones of a very large size, or
heavy rain.
After passing the paraUel of 40° south, the " Tsar "
was put in condition to encounter heavy weather off
the Cape. Best sails were bent and new running gear
rove. In the fo'c'sle, warm, thick clothing was got out
and overhauled and the conversation in the watch below
savored of past experiences off the stormy Cape.
With the exception of a little brush off the Patagonian
coast, all went well, and passing the Falkland Islands,
we sighted Staten Land, an island lying east of Tierra del
Fuego (Land of Fire), the strait between being called Le
Maire. Staten Land is an island of considerable size and heavily
wooded, but uninhabited.
Rounding the east end with a fair wind, with every
stitch of canvas drawing, we sped on for Cape Horn,
hoping to round it without a setback, but, alas, for our
hopes, there was no such luck in store for us.
Away in the southwest loomed up an ominous bank
of whitish gray mist, sweeping down upon us. All hands
were called, light sails clewed up and handed in a hurry,
topsail halliards let go by the run, reef tackles hauled
out, while buntlines and spilling-lines were bowsed
taut. The ship paid off as it burst upon us butt end
foremost, and ere we could jump into the rigging a cold,

RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 55
icy blast with sleet and hail fairly whistled and howled
about our ears, as we laid aloft and out upon the yards.
This was our first touch of Cape Horn that we were not
likely to forget. With the hardest kind of work, it was
upwards of an hour ere we could get the close reefs in,
and courses furled, but all having been made snug, our
watch went below, chilled through to the marrow, and
substituted warm and dry for wet clothing, a most
agreeable change. Meantime the sea had risen, and the
great waves, driven before the gale, gave an idea of what
a Cape Horn sea, that I had so often heard talked about
in the fo'c'sle, was like.
We were now headed to the south'ard, close-hauled,
under close reefs. From this time on, gale followed gale,
with short intervals of favoring winds, taking advantage
of which, and every slant, at the end of two weeks we
had worked up to the meridian 80° west, when with a
fine, strong, sou'west gale, the " Tsar " bore away to
the north'ard with all the canvas the ship could stagger
under. Bidding Cape Horn a long farewell, with no
regrets, we fairly flew towards more genial weather and
a warmer climate.
During our sojourn off the Cape the ship was constantly
surrounded by great numbers of birds, — albatrosses.
Cape Horn pigeons. Mother Carey's chickens (stormy
petrel), who followed the ship day after day, hanging
around for anything in the shape of food thrown over
board. They would drop like a shot from a gun and
pounce upon it. Our men caught several with hooks '
baited with a piece of salt pork, but once on deck they
were ungainly and clumsy as they waddled about before
they were again given their freedom. No injury is done
to them, except viewing them at close range, sailors
believing that kiUing or injuring these birds bodes Ul

56 OCEAN LIFE
luck. Sailing through the air, poised over the ship, or
riding the biUows, they present a most graceful appear
ance. They followed the ship for many days after we
bore away north, and we finally dropped them after
crossing the paraUel of 40° south.
The " Tsar " was now in the south Pacific, with smooth
saiUng, delightful weather, and fine trade winds, heading
for the Society Islands, Otaheite, the largest of the
group, being our destination. I was very much interested
in these islands, having read in my school days the
" Mutiny of the Bounty," a ship sent out by the English
government to make a collection of the bread-fruit trees
to take to the West Indies. The book contained a fasci
nating description of Otaheite, or Tahiti, as it is more
commonly caUed.
These islands of the South Pacific always possessed a
great attraction for me, particularly Tahiti, and Moorea.
At this time Tahiti was a French possession, that govern
ment having made it a naval rendezvous.
One fine morning the welcome cry of " Land, ho! "
greeted our ears, and ere long Tahiti and Moorea were
in plain sight.
Beautiful Otaheite! well named the " Garden of the
Pacific! " It would take a more able pen than mine to
describe your charms !
High, commanding, it rises out from the waves, its
hills and vales clothed with rich, tropical foliage, a
living green in strong contrast with the sparkling blue
waters of the Pacific, encircled with a coral reef upon
which breaks the long ocean swell, a snowy white, while
beyond lie the still, quiet waters of the harbor of Papatee,
the port of Tahiti, its entrance being a narrow channel
through the reef.
As we approached nearer a native came on board to

RIO DE JANEIRO. — CAPE HORN 57
pUot the ship into the harbor, where we dropped anchor,
off the town, just as the sun was setting.
SaUs were furled and decks cleared up, while until
gun-fire (eight o'clock) the ship was surrounded by canoes
with natives anxious to trade. There were visits to
our officers from the officers of the French man-of-war
to inquire where from and what news.
Ere darkness settled down I had an opportunity to
look at our surroundings, a most beautiful picture. The
harbor of Papatee nestles down by the side of a high
mountain, the beach forming a crescent, the horn on the
seaside being a long point bearing the name of Point
Venus. It is covered with magnificent cocoa palms
extending all around the beach in front of the town.
This beach is a pure white sand, and just in the rear,
among the waving palms, orange and banana trees, could
be seen the pretty white cottages of the French and
Enghsh residents, not many at that time, mingled with
the picturesque thatched huts of the natives. Some little
distance back stood the government house, a more pre
tentious dweUing, also the residence of the native queen,
Pomare. The whole scene, lighted up with the glory of the
departing day, formed a picture of rare beauty.
The anchor watch was set, but it was late that night
ere I closed my eyes in slumber.
The next morning was the Sabbath, and we were
turned out at daylight to wash down decks and put the
ship in shape for a hohday appearance, visitors being
expected from shore. Stationed at the head pump on
the to'gaUant fo'c'sle, I had ample leisure to look around.
In the morning light the scene was beyond compare.
The mountains and the hUls were bathed in the soft
hght of the coming day, and the glowing, richly tinted

58 OCEAN LIFE
clouds that encircled them. The lighter green of the
hillsides contrasted with the deeper shades of the vaUeys
and the graceful foliage of the waving palms that extended
around the beach. The groves of orange trees bending
with their golden fruit, mingled with the breadfruit
trees, and the banana with its great green leaves, while
the morning breeze, laden with the breath of flowers,
came from the shore, distilling a fragrance rarely inhaled
in other lands.
Just as the sun was rising, while drinking in the scene,
music from out the groves came to our ears borne on the
breeze, not loud and harsh, but exquisitely soft, in com
plete harmony with the surroundings. The effect was
indescribable. For an hour the band played, being
stationed in the groves adjoining the government house.
I afterwards learned it was the band of the French troops
quartered at Tahiti. Every evening and on Sunday
mornings they played the most exquisite music.
At eight beUs all our colors were thrown to the breeze,
with the American ensign at the peak, and the union
jack floating from the jackstaff on the bowsprit.

CHAPTER VII
1847
SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU. — CALIFORNIA GOLD
FEVER
After breakfast, the port watch asked for and received
liberty to go on shore for the day, with orders to be at
the beach at sunset, when the ship's boat would take
them off. Every man was given a few dollars as liberty
money, and after washing up and putting on our best
shore togs, we were landed on the beach by a boat's
crew of the starboard watch, who then returned to the
ship. After landing, the men separated in knots of twos
and threes, wandering through the town, scraping ac
quaintance with the natives, buying fruit and knick-
knacks, consisting of rare and curious sheUs, beautiful
bunches of coral, sea-fans, embroidered tappa, cloth made
from the fibres of the cocoanut husk, and many other
curios. Tattooing was a fine art in these islands. In those
days it was almost universal among sailors, to a greater
or less extent. It was not long before the crew found an
old native who was a past master in the art, and before
the ship sailed I do not think there was a member of the
crew upon whom he had not exercised his skiU. The
specimens of his work on my arms to-day, although
69

60 OCEAN LIFE
nearly sixty years have elapsed, are as fresh and bright
as when first put in.
In operating the patient lay on his back on the floor of
the hut, with his arm bared and outstretched. Old
Bob's instruments were a stick, six or eight inches long,
with smaU sharks' teeth inserted or bound to one end,
in ones, twos, fours or sixes. Another stick, equally
long, was used as a tapper. The ingredients were India
ink and vermilion. Squatting down beside the arm,
or whatever part he intended to operate on, he would
draw his design, generally a ship, a cocoanut tree, a
mermaid, or a picture taken from some novel that he
had managed to get hold of, such as " EthwUd the Female
Pirate," or of that class.
Taking his stick with the keen sharp points in one
hand, and the tapper in the other, he would follow the
lines drawn upon the skin, tapping, tapping, the blood
flowing at each stroke. Every little while he would stop,
wipe off the blood, and rub in the India ink or vermilion.
This operation was continued until the design was com
pleted. The arm would sweU, and be very sore for a
few days; perhaps it would be a week before it felt all
right, but I never heard of any serious results attending
the operation.
In company with the ordinary seaman and the two
oldest boys, Barnum W. Field of Boston and Alfred
Currier of Salem, after strolling around for awhile we
shaped our course for a cruise into the groves back of
the town. Following a beaten path, and coming to a
spring of sparkling, cold water, we reclined in the shade
of a large orange tree, with guavas and bananas in pro
fusion around us, and having eaten our fill of these
delicious fruits, we lay back, listening to the murmur of
the spring and the soft breeze singing in the tree-tops,

SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 61
and falling asleep, did not wake until the sun was well
down its western slope, when we started for the town
to be in time for the boat that was to take us aboard at
sunset. At the beach we found about all the watch assembled,
one or two arriving at the last moment. Comparing notes,
all voted that they had enjoyed their outing hugely.
I am sure we did ours, every moment of it. On the arrival
of our boats we were rowed on board and reported in
good time, thus ending our first liberty day at Tahiti.
The next morning hatches were taken off, and the
work of overhauling our cargo commenced, as part was
to be discharged here, and the balance at Honolulu,
Sandwich Islands.
As one of the boat's crew I spent a great part of the
time on shore, or making trips between the ship and shore.
When there was leisure, we would let the boat lie, looking
over the sides, where the bottom could be plainly seen
through the clear, glassy water, many fathoms deep, the
waving sea-fans of bright colors, and branches of white
coral, through which myriads of fish of almost every hue
swam, reminding me of Percival's lines: —
" Deep in the wave is a coral grove,
Where the purple mullet and gold flsh rove,
Where the sea flower spreads its leaves of blue
That never are wet with the falling dew,
But in bright and changeful beauty shine
Far down in the deep and glassy brine."
It seemed as if I never would tire of gazing into the
depths and admiring the forms of life therein.
The natives were fine specimens of the human famUy;
the male portion of good height and buUd, and finely
featured, complexion a hght ohve, hair wavy and black.
The women were, up to the age of twenty-five, generally

62 OCEAN LIFE
very handsome, with a free, upright carriage. As they
moved along they appeared, in their light, flowing drapery,
as graceful as swans.
The Society Islands were discovered by the Spanish,
in 1606, and visited by Captains Wallace and Cook in
1767 and 1769. In 1842, a few years before this, my first
visit, they were taken under French protection. The
wind'ard group was annexed in 1880, and the leeward
in 1885.
As the native population had been in revolt against
the French, a mihtary force was deemed necessary to
overawe them.
Our stay at Tahiti covered the space of nearly six
weeks, when, having put ashore all that portion of our
cargo to be landed here, the anchor was weighed, saU
made on the ship, and passing out through the reef, we
bade a regretful adieu to fair Tahiti, shaping our course
for Oahu, Sandwich Islands. How little I thought as I
watched it sink beneath the horizon, that ere a few months
had passed I should again revisit it, but under different
conditions. A pleasant run of some three weeks brought us in
sight of the island of Hawaii, the largest and most southern
of the Sandwich group. The lofty peak of Mauna Loa,
an active volcano nearly 14,000 feet in height, first
appears high up above the horizon. Passing Maui,
Molokai, and the smaller islands of the group, we sighted
Diamond Head, a high, bold headland, the most southern
point of the island of Oahu. East and north some twenty
miles lay our destination, the port of Honolulu.
The Honolulu of to-day is vastly different from the
same place sixty years ago. These islands were united
into a kingdom under Kamehameha first in 1791, Ameri
can missionaries settled there in 1820, and the first

SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 63
treaty with the United States was made in 1826. The
first constitution was proclaimed in 1840, and a reciprocity
treaty practically establishing free trade with the United
States was ratified in 1875. In 1893, the monarchy was
abrogated, and four years later a republic was established.
In 1.90^ the republic, under the title of Hawau, was
annexed as a territory to the United States of America.
Closing in with the land, we hauled the main yard aback
off the town, outside the reef, with the union jack at
the fore, a signal for the pilot.
He soon appeared, in a whale-boat, coming through
the channel in the reef, pulled by a crew of Kanakas,
as the natives of aU these islands are called. Once aboard,
I was surprised to learn that he was a Marblehead man.
Captain John Meek, who had settled in the islands,
married a native woman, and had reared a large family
of children, some of the boys being well grown. At this
time he held the position of government pilot. Under
his guidance we passed through the reef safely, and entered
the fine natural harbor, formed by a lagoon, having a
depth of from three and a half to five fathoms, and
bounded seaward by the reef, with its snowy surf line.
At this time there were no wharves. The "Tsar,"
having been hauled in and moored stern on to the beach,
discharged her cargo into lighters.
There was a large number of vessels in port, nearly all
being ships and barques engaged in the whaling business,
and, the season over on the nor'west coast, they had called
at Honolulu to refit for a cruise for sperm-whales on the
equator, or the coasts of Peru and Chile.
Oahu was a great whaling rendezvous, where all the
fleet called, both going and returning from the northern
whaUng grounds, and Honolulu was a lively place, with
the harbor full of whale-ships, many lying outside the reef.

64 OCEAN LIFE
After the work was done on board, i. e. putting aU
rigging and gear in order, tarring and painting, aU this
work being done in port, on a whale-ship, the crew were
given hberty in alternate watches, day after day, as long
as the ship remained in port, each man receiving hberty
money, from one to two dollars each. This would go a
long way if properly managed. Horseback riding was in
great vogue. A steed, with saddle, could be hired for from
fifty to sixty cents an afternoon, and it was glorious fun
for Jack, who generally got all there was in it. WhUe
we were hard at work, on the " Tsar," day after day,
boat-load after boat-load would pass the ship on their
way to the shore to enjoy their outing, until I began to
imagine that life on a whaler must be very pleasant.
To be sure, we were allowed to go on shore in the evening
and on Sundays, generally improving the opportunity,
but that was not in the daytime, when we could go
horseback riding, and see the country outside of the town.
While lying here a brigantine came into port and
anchored close to us. She was named the " Elmira,"
flying the English flag, and a more beautiful craft I have
never seen, but a sad tragedy had occurred. She saUed
from Mazatlan, bound for China, and her crew was com
posed of Spaniards, negroes, and other hard characters
pick^ up on the coast, a captain, first and second officers,
a carpenter (a Scotchman) and two apprentice boys.
She was in ballast, but had on board a half a mUlion of
specie. In the vicinity of the islands the crew mutinied,
and took possession of the brig, killing all on board except
the carpenter and the two boys. After all was over they
got hold of the liquors in the cabin, and entered upon a
grand carouse. While part of them lay in a drunken
sleep, the carpenter and boys attacked them, " Chips "
with his broadaxe taking the lead. They succeeded in

SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 65
kUUng all the mutineers, throwing their bodies over
board, but, in the mUSe a big fellow got one of the boys
partly over the rail, and was in the act of plunging his
knife into him, when the carpenter rushed upon the
assailant, severing his arm with the axe and afterwards
braining him. Again in possession, one of the boys
navigated the brig to Honolulu, and arriving safely, she
was taken charge of by the British consul. Many years
after, when I was in Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, I
saw the same brig, then running as a government mail
packet between the Falkland Islands and Montevideo,
S. A.
Having discharged the balance of our cargo, instead of
proceeding to China in baUast, Captain Kenneday chartered
to load oU home to New Bedford, the hold being made
ready to receive oil casks, instead of tea chests from a
China port as we had anticipated.
We had partly completed our lading, when Honolulu
was thrown into a whirl of excitement, by the arrival of
the native schooner " Kamehameha " from the coast, with
the news of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mills in
California. All who could were getting ready for a trip
to San Francisco and the gold diggings. Everything
in the shape of sailing craft was chartered and loaded with
provisions, or what would pay best, and packed with
passengers, who were charged the most exorbitant rates
for passage. Every night that we were on shore my
ears were filled with the wildest stories of gold discoveries,
— fortunes made in a month, — until I caught the gold
fever in earnest, and secretly resolved that when the ship
was ready for sea I would run away, and manage to work
my way to San Francisco. Keeping my own counsel,
I made friends with two boat-steerers of the whale-ship
" Samuel Robertson " of Fairhaven, who advised me

66 OCEAN LIFE
not to leave until the night before the ship was to saU,
then get aboard their ship about two in the morning,
when they would stow me away until after the " Tsar "
left port. This plan I successfuUy carried out. Separating
from my companions about the time they were getting
ready to go on board, I lingered about untU all was
quiet, then borrowing a whale-boat that was lying on
the beach, without hunting around for the owner, I
paddled off under the bows, climbed on board by the
anchor chain, and gained the to'gaUant fo'c'sle, from
thence descending to the main deck. All was quiet.
No anchor watch was kept in port; not a soul to be seen
on deck. Descending into the fo'c'sle, I got my clothes-
bag, and returning on deck, lowered it into the boat,
then making the rope fast, I slid down, and casting off,
said good-by to the " Tsar," and paddled on board the
" Samuel Robertson," that lay but a short distance from
the ship. James Barrett, one of my friends, was on the
lookout and took me below, where I was stowed away
in a locker in the forepeak, remaining there until the
" Tsar " sailed the following afternoon.
Coming on deck before she was out of sight, I watched
her until huU down. As she sank below the horizon, a
feeling of sadness stole over me. I realized that it was
the severing of the chain that connected me with home.
But this feeling did not last long, for I was naturally of
a buoyant and sanguine temperament. Barnum W.
Field, a Bostonian, one of our ship's boys, had left pre
viously, with the consent of Captain Kenneday, entering
the large mercantile house of Charles W. Brewer & Co.
of Honolulu as clerk. At the time I commanded the
" Danube," in 1863, I again met him in New York; he
was then the head of a large house dealing in western
produce.

SOCIETY ISLANDS. — HONOLULU 67
Finding it impossible, with my limited means, to secure
a passage to San Francisco, I shipped on the " Samuel
Robertson," for a cruise on the equator to fill up with
sperm-oil, thence around Cape Horn home. She was
nearly full, and a few whales would enable her to fill
up. She had been out from Fairhaven three years,
making a most successful voyage.
Having signed articles, for a fortnight I had all the
liberty I wished for. Each day one watch would go on
shore, receiving a dollar, as liberty money, while on board,
the watch would lay around, doing whatever pleased them.
Accustomed, as I was, to the strict discipline of a
merchantman, this was indeed a change, but finally,
taking our departure, we ran down to Hawaii, where we
took on board live stock, yams, sweet potatoes, fruit,
etc., after which the ship bore away to the south'ard
for the whahng grounds.
This was an entirely new phase of life, differing greatly
from that to which I had been accustomed. After leaving
port the boats' crews were chosen, and I was allotted to
the first mate's, a large, seven-oared boat, while all the
others were but five. The boat's crew consisted of a boat-
header, who was either the captain, first, second, third
or fourth officer, and the boat's crew of five, or seven,
including the boat-steerer, who pulled the harpooner or
bow oar.

CHAPTER VIII
1847 - 1849
WHALING IN '48.  AGAIN TAHITI.  ESCAPE TO THE
HILLS.  DINNER IN THE FRENCH RESTAURANT
Ten or twelve days out we sighted our first whales.
"There she blows!" came from the lookout stationed
at the royal masthead, while to the demand:
" Where away? " came the response:
" Four points off the lee bow, sir! "
Instantly all was excitement. Captain Turner, seizing
a powerful marine glass, sprang into the rigging, and
quickly ascended to the lookout, from whence in a few
moments came the order:
" Keep her off four points! "
This was speedily done, and the yards checked in.
There were many hands to do the work, the ship having
a crew of thirty-six, exclusive of officers. Shortly we could
see from the deck a large school of sperm-whales, heading
eastward, swimming slowly along, little anticipating the
reception being made ready for them. Meantime the
officers, with their respective crews, were seeing that
the whaling gear in each boat was in readiness for lower
ing. In fact, the gear of a whale-boat when on whaling
ground is looked after daily. Harpoons and lances are
as bright and sharp as razors. Line-tubs are over
hauled, and every kink and turn taken out of the line
68

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 69
before being coUed down in the tub, when it is as supple
as silk.
Water " breakers " are kept filled, and a lantern keg,
with a small supply of biscuit, etc., always ready.
When we were but a short distance from them, the
school sounded- The main topsail was now thrown
aback, and all made ready for lowering. Though intensely
exciting, everything was done very quietly, so as not
to alarm the whales. Presently the school broke water
about an eighth of a mile astern, and in less than three
minutes every boat was in the water, and headed for
the whales, while every pound of strength that was in
the muscles of the crews was thrown into the oars, until
the boats fairly flew through the water.
Just before we reached them, our boat being in the
lead, the school again sounded. Lying on our oars, a
sharp lookout was kept for their reappearance. In
fifteen or twenty minutes they again broke water. No
sooner were they sighted than the boats were after them,
and shortly the harpooner was ordered to stand up. I
could now hear the " choo'o, choo'o, choo'o," as they
spouted from their blow-holes.
Fairly quivering with excitement, and turning round
to get a good look, I suddenly received a tap alongside
the head from the mate at the steering oar, that caused
me to see more stars than I ever imagined were made,
with a quiet admonition that it was contrary to rules
to turn the head to look, when puUing on to a whale.
We were now right between two big whales, at least
eighty barrels each. The boat being, in whaling parlance,
" wood and black skin " i. e. the wood of the boat
touching the skin of the whale, by reaching over I could
have placed my hand upon one, when the mate shouted
to let him have it.

70 OCEAN LIFE
The boat-steerer, who is the harpooner, became gallied
(dazed or frightened) from some unaccountable reason.
He was too close for darting, and instead of driving, or
setting, his iron into him solid, he drove it at him, cutting
him down the side, but not fastening securely. Catching
up his second iron, he fairly pitch-poled it over him.
It is a singular fact that, as soon as one whale in a
school is struck, all the rest know it. In an instant there
was not an earthquake, but a waterquake around us, a
seething mass of white water, with heads, flukes, and fins
in every direction.
Supposing we were fast, the mate roared, " To stern
all! " and all the crew thinking the same, the order was
obeyed with a will. In less time than it takes to write
it, the whole school, having become gallied, were off
to wind'ard, going " fin out," like mad.
When the mate discovered that Fred, the Portuguese
boat-steerer, had missed his whale, he was furious, and
acted for awhile like an insane man. Catching up a
paddle, he threw it at Fred's head, and dashing his hat
into the bottom of the boat, jumped up and down upon
it, in the meanwhile cursing him, and the whole boat's
crew. Then, starting on another tack, the boat's head
was turned, and we were ordered to row to wind'ard
after the whales, the mate offering everything he possessed,
if we could only overhaul the school. Standing there
bareheaded, with one hand on the steering oar, with the
other he would set against my oar with a force that almost
threw me over the line-tub at each stroke, whUe the crew
pulled as if for their lives. But it was of no avaU, and
after an hour's hard work the school was about out of
sight, and the ship nearly hull down. The boat's head
was then puUed round, and, reluctantly, we returned on
board, where poor Fred was " broken," and turned

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 71
forward among the crew. According to his story, he had
only been right-whaling, and was accustomed to a long
dart. The manner of approaching a right whale differs
from that of going on to a sperm-whale: with the former
you approach the fore shoulder, and, after fastening,
back off, out of the way of his flukes, that he invariably
sweeps from one side to the other, and woe betide the
boat that gets within reach of that tail, his fighting
weapon. A dart with a harpoon is made from a distance
of one to five fathoms. In the latter case, a sperm-whale
fights with his head, and rarely sweeps, but when struck
with the iron, fans, i. e. raises his tail and brings his
flukes down with a crack equal to ten thousand coach-
whips. In fastening, the boat is run by the corner of
his flukes, and alongside, and a dart made from two or
three fathoms' distance, but when Fred found himself
so close, he lost his head.
It was a bitter disappointment to the captain and
officers, as weU as the crew, for if he had fastened sohd,
probably every other boat would have fastened, also,
as where one whale is fast the school will hang around
generaUy, giving each boat a chance, and we should have
ffiled up the balance of our casks. The loss of these whales
put Captain Turner, officers and crew in bad humor,
that cropped out on every occasion. What made it worse,
we did not raise another school of sperm-whales, not
even a single one, although lookouts v/ere at both fore
and main mastheads. Nothing more than a few schools
of blackfish were sighted, which we lowered for, and
took enough oU to give us some twenty barrels, at the
expense of a stove boat. These blackfish are lively
fellows, and sometimes give a lot of trouble. They are
apt to breach out of water over a boat, and wiU run one
for a short time at a Uvely gait. They yield, if in good

72 OCEAN LIFE
condition, from three to five barrels of oU, according to
size, and, unless whales are around, are always taken,
as the oil brings a good price.
Thus two weeks passed, and no whales, whUe gloom
hung o'er the ship, and Ufe on the " Samuel Robertson "
was anything but " one glad sweet song."
About this time, it was discovered that our fore top
mast was badly sprung, and as our water casks needed
filling, Captain Turner decided to call in at Papetee,
Otaheite, get a spar for the carpenter to make into a
fore topmast, and fiU water. The ship, being but a short
distance from the island, was headed for the port, and
the following morning was off the reef with the town in
sight, the hills and mountains of Otaheite showing up
grandly in the morning light and looking, now, so familiar
to me. Passing through the passage in the reef, we came
to anchor off the town, with its white beach, cocoa palms
waving, huts and houses peeping out from the orange
groves, everything looking as I left it a few months before.
Captain Turner was afraid of desertion, and orders
were given that no liberty on shore would be allowed.
A picked boat's crew to carry Captain Turner back and
forth were chosen, I being so fortunate as to be one of
the number. We took him ashore each morning, returning
at noon; again after dinner, remaining until nightfaU,
then returning on board for the night.
Native canoes were allowed alongside during the day,
while natives, male and female, swarmed over the ship,
trading with the officers and crew, but when night fell
they were ordered off.
On the third morning after our arrival, my chum,
Jim Foote of Syracuse, N. Y., " turned up missing,"
having deserted during the night in some way, probably
by one of the canoes, eluding the vigUance of the officers.

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 73
This desertion very much incensed Captain Turner, and
a double watch was ordered, the officers succeeding each
other in turn.
I had f uUy made up my mind to run away if opportunity
offered, but not untU the last night did I see a chance.
The port regulations were very strict, no sailors or officers
of any ship being aUowed on shore after gun-fire at eight
o'clock at night, without a special permit. Any one
caught between that hour and gun-fire at 3 a. m. was
picked up and locked in the calaboose. The native police
(kikos) were on the alert for Jack, as it meant a reward.
The beach was patrolled by French soldiers until the
morning gun. All this made it pretty difficult to escape,
but one thing was in my favor. I had picked up the
language, during my former visit here, and in Honolulu,
and was able to talk Kanaka like a native.
The last day of the ship's stay was spent on shore by
the boat's crew, and about dark. Captain Turner, having
finished his business, came down to go on board. It was
now about 8 p. m. ; all the canoes had left the ship, having
been ordered off, save one which was lying under the
fore channels, the owner, a big Kanaka, with his little
whyenee (girl), being down in the boat-steerers' quarters,
trading with them. Seeing the canoe, a thought that I
might get ashore in her flashed across my mind, and
slipping into the fo'c'sle, I puUed on an extra shirt,
and returning, stood by the rail awaiting his coming.
As he passed me I asked in low tones if he would take me
ashore, and quickly comprehending the situation, he
answered in the affirmative. Slipping through the open
port-hole and grasping a rope hanging over the side, I
shd down into the canoe, lying flat in the bottom, and
was followed in a moment by the whyenee and himself.
Casting off, and seizing his paddle, a few vigorous strokes

74 OCEAN LIFE
set him clear from the ship, and although the officers were
watching as well as they could see in the gathering dark
ness, I was unobserved, and knew that I should not be
missed until morning. Passing the guard-boat rowing
about in the harbor, which came close to us, the guard
speaking to the Kanaka, but failing to see me, we ran
alongside some boats moored a stone's throw from the
beach. The Kanaka having told me, on my way in, that
I must slip into one of these boats and remain untU he
came for me, I acted on his instructions, and roUed over
into a small rowboat and lay down to await his coming,
and having dropped asleep, was awakened by a rubbing
along the boat's side. Looking up, I saw my Kanaka
standing in his canoe signing for silence and for me to
get in.
A few strokes sent us to the beaich. Leaving the boat
drawn up a little, we crawled on our hands and knees,
the native leading, up past the sentry, who was sitting
on the beach, with his musket beside him, sound asleep.
Having got a short distance past him, we arose to our
feet, continuing on until we came to several huts, one of
which, the roof partly off, was in a dilapidated condition,
and nearly ffiled with leaves fallen from the grove in
which it stood. Into this shelter I crept, and covered
myself with the leaves, the Kanaka telling me he would
come after gun-fire, about 3 o'clock in the morning.
Promptly on time he made his appearance, and, taking
the lead and telling me to follow, he struck into a path
leading to the hills. Two hours' brisk travel brought us
to an elevation, where we could look over the town,
harbor, and reef. As far as the eye could reach were
spread the shining blue waters of the Pacific. The view
at this elevation was magnificent. Turning in from the
path through a thicket of guava bushes, we emerged into

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 75
a beautiful grove of orange and other trees. Here he
told me to stop, and he would go down and bring me up
some food.
As there was an abundance of fruit around, and it was
not at all hkely that I should remain long, this movement
of his appeared singular, and the thought came to my
mind that when he returned he would not be alone.
No doubt a small reward would be offered for me, and,
having hidden, he would know where to find me. In
short, I felt that he was going to betray me, and give me
up for the reward, and acting on this belief, I went a short
distance and chmbed a tree having a very dense foliage,
making openings through the leaves where I could com
mand a view of the path leading to the grove, as well as
one looking over it. I then settled back, and awaited
events. Two hours passed, when, hearing voices, I glanced
through the opening, and saw my Kanaka, accompanied
by two French soldiers, coming up the path. Leaving
them outside, he entered alone, and not seeing me,
called softly, but receiving no response, finally called
them in. Beating the bushes, they hunted everywhere,
but at last came to the conclusion that I had vacated
my quarters, for some reason, and giving up the search,
returned to town.
After becoming satisfied that they had gone for good,
I descended from the tree, and struck into another
path that brought me out on the seaward side of Point
Venus. Here, hidden in the bushes, I could see the ship
lying outside the reef, with her main topsail aback,
which meant that Captain Turner was stiU on shore,
waiting for me to be brought to the boat and taken on
board, and I inwardly chuckled to think that the
" Samuel Robertson " would not have me this time!

76 OCEAN LIFE
At last the boat went on board, and the ship ffiled
away. I watched her until she was hull down, and then,
feeling that the chances were very smaU that she would
return, I left my hiding-place and walked boldly into the
town, and turning into the American consul's store, I
accosted the captain of the barque " George," of Stoning
ton, Conn., U. S. A., a whaler, telUng him, frankly, I
had deserted from the ship " Samuel Robertson," and
asking if he would ship me.
After being badgered awhUe, I signed the articles for
ten dollars a month, and to help take oil if we saw whales,
instead of a regular lay, as the barque was bound home
around the Cape, but would lower for whales if we saw
any. The " George " had been out forty-seven months,
having had very poor luck, only about twelve hundred
barrels of oil, and most of that a poor quality taken in
Magdalena Bay, California. She was short-handed, only
four of her original ship's company that left home remain
ing by her.
Having received my advance ($10), I started for the
beach, but had not proceeded far when I was arrested as
a runaway from the " Samuel Robertson," so, instead of
landing on the " George " in a half-hour, I found myself
an inmate of the calaboose in company with my chum
Jim Foote, who was picked up an hour before.
The following morning Captain George Taber, finding
I had not gone on board, came to look me up. This was
fortunate for Jim, as the captain not only obtained my
release, but his also, shipping him as one of the crew of
the " George." We had taken our departure from duress
almost famished, I having had nothing but fruit for two
days and Jim for about a week. So we made a line for a
restaurant just off the beach kept by a Frenchman and

WHALING IN '48. — AGAIN TAHITI 77
largely patronized by the officers of the men-of-war
and captains of vessels in port.
With my month's advance in my pocket, we entered
boldly, signifying to the gargon in Kanaka, — not being
well up in French, — that we wished dinner for two.
Our appearance was against us, and the gargon viewed
us with suspicion, but the jingle of the silver dollars set
everything right, — and such a dinner! Cleaning off
every dish that was brought on, we finished two bottles
of wine with our repast, then lay back in our chairs,
calling for the best cigars, and finally, as the day was
waning, the bUl. It was brought. Passing over the
items, we glanced at the sum total, forty-five francs, —
my whole month's advance, with the exception of five
francs, that we magnanimously handed the waiter, who
bowed us out, salaaming to the floor, and we went on
board without a cent, but full and happy.
The memory of that dinner lingered with us many
weeks. With the exception of one whale, we took no more oil.
We were very short-provisioned, and the desire seemed
to be more to get home than to see whales. We made a
favorable run around Cape Horn and were again in the
south Atlantic. Our provisions were getting very short
indeed, when we were fortunate in speaking the ship
" Martha " of Newport, R. I., also a whaler, and pro
curing from her two casks of bread, with other stores,
but no tobacco. We were all out of tobacco, and on our
arrival at Stonington had been without over a month,
and every user of the weed knows what that means.
We had procured a plug for each man from a schooner,
the day before we made port, and from that time all
hands were chewing away for dear life.
Taking a pilot, we entered the port of Stonington,

78 OCEAN LIFE
when the foUowing day aU who had shipped in the Islands
were paid off, myself among the number. Paying no heed
to flattering inducements held out to me to proceed to
New Bedford and join the ship " Betsey WiUiams," just
fitting out for a three years' cruise in the Pacific — having
had aU I wanted of whahng — I took the train for Bos
ton, where I joined the barque " Tiberias," Captain EUsha
Foster, bound for San Francisco and the gold fields.
This was in the rush of '49.
Our crew was shipped for $13 advance, and $2 per
month; it being stipulated in the articles that the crew
should discharge the cargo in San Francisco, at the going
rate of wages at that port.

CHAPTER IX
1849 - 1850
SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA. — PORTLAND. — GENUINE
RED MEN
Sailing from Boston in November, 1849, we experi
enced a fine run off the coast. The westerly winds pre
vailing were not long in running our easting down, and
we could head south for the trade winds.
Our crew numbered fourteen for'ard, which, with
captain and after guard, ma;de a total of twenty, all told.
Ten days out insanity developed in John Williston, one
of the crew, which caused no end of trouble.
A sailor from Gay Head, Martha's Vineyard, of the
name of Charles, had been a shipmate o^ John's, and
knew of these attacks, but had not mentioned it. The
discovery was made thus: John had been sick, and
confined to his berth two days. Coming from the wheel
the second day, I passed the members of the watch getting
their supper on deck, and descended the fo'c'sle ladder
to get my pot, pan and spoon in order to join them.
Securing these, I was about mounting the steps, when
there came from John's bunk one of the most unearthly
groans X. ever heard. Thinking he must be in great pain,
I stepped to the berth, and asked him how he felt. Receiv
ing no reply, I placed my hand upon his shoulder, when
hke a flash he turned upon me with a demoniacal glare
79

80 OCEAN LIFE
in his eyes. His look was enough to freeze one's blood
and in an instant I realized I was alone with a powerful
maniac, endowed with the full use of all his limbs, and
possessing at least five times his natural strength. I
turned to escape by the companionway, but with a roar
like a wild beast he sprang to the fo'c'sle deck, making
for me ere I could reach the foot of the ladder. The big
oak bitts came through the centre of the fo'c'sle, and
around these I sprang, followed by John, who was as
nimble as a cat. Finally, on the fourth or fifth round,
he caught his foot in the becket of the bread-barge and
fell. I reached the companion ladder with a bound,
and was part ways up, when he grasped my foot, but a
vigorous kick in the head with the other foot caused him
to loosen his hold and fall back into the fo'c'sle, where,
seizing the barge in one hand, he started in, smashing
everything in general. At that moment Charles, his
former shipmate, came from the wheel, and looking down,
exclaimed: "My God! John's -got his fits again!" adding, "He
must be secured. He'U kill all hands if he gets out of
the fo'c'sle."
As only one man could go down at a time, it was
apparent that the first one would have anything but a
picnic before the others could assist him, but something
must be done, for John was creating havoc among the
chests and berths, and the carpenter, a big man, volun
teered. Springing into the fo'c'sle, he grappled the
madman, and for a couple of minutes poor " Chips "
was knocked around like a shuttlecock, and until we
could get down and overpower him by force of numbers.
Then, having bound him so he could do no damage, we
let him he while Charles enlightened us. It seems that
these attacks would come on daily for several weeks,

SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 81
then every other day, finally every third day for ten days
or a fortnight, and then pass away entirely. He would
have no more unless some fit of passion, or other reason,
caused a return. The worst feature was that when he
felt them coming on he would conceal the fact, and
before we were aware of it, he would be a raving maniac,
with a desire to kill some one, so it became necessary to
keep a very careful watch upon him, so as to have him
confined in time in a strait-jacket and f rapped down
on a four-inch plank, some seven feet long, with a row of
holes bored on each side, through which ratline stuff
was passed, making a complete lacework over him.
Even bound thus, he would grip with his toes anything
coming in contact with his feet, while a rope swung by
his face he would snap with his teeth in the most vicious
manner. It was much feared he would have an attack at
night, and get hold of a hand-spike or knife, in which
case he would probably have had to be shot. When he
came out of these attacks, he would be as weak and almost
as helpless as a kitten for about two hours, after which
he would recover his strength, and be as well as any
one untU the attacks came on again. They would last from
one to two hours. Before we reached Cape Horn the fits
passed away entirely, but they cost us many a scare,
and kept aU hands on the qui vive for nearly two months.
Just before sailing from Boston a week of very severe
cold weather was experienced, and on breaking out stores
when we got part ways to the equator, it was found that
twenty-five barrels of potatoes had to be thrown over
board, having been frozen while being taken on board.
It was a keen loss, as we had counted on potatoes for a
long time.
On the equator we spoke an English ship bound from
Sydney, N, S. W., to London, and it being nearly calm,

82 OCEAN LIFE
the captains visited each other, and some of the passengers
of the Englishman wishing to go to California, Captain
Foster got two men from her. They were good, able
seamen, and on John's account we were glad to have
them. We made a good run to Cape Horn, with fifteen
days of stormy gales off the Cape, and we were again in
the south Pacific.
Passing the belt of S. E. and N. E. trades, nothing of
note occurred until we arrived off the heads of San Fran
cisco. Sighting the Farralones, a cluster of small, rocky
islands, in the morning, we took a pilot on board, and
entering the Golden Gate, we passed up the bay, coming
to an anchor among a fleet of shipping of all nationalities,
one hundred and forty-five days from Boston.
Glorious California! El Dorado of the Pacific slope!
What successes, struggles and hardships have you wit
nessed in the mad rush for gold during the early days,
after the discovery of the vast amount of mineral wealth
within thy borders had been made known to the world,
and the Golden Gate of thy magnificent bay was opened
wide to young and old, rich and poor alike, sturdy adven
turers from every land, bidding them welcome to a
participation in the treasures to be harvested from thy
rivers, streams, and mountains!
Such a gathering could only be found in San Francisco
during these early days of '49 and '50. One met very
few old men in the city streets, but young to middle-aged,
full of life, brawn and muscle, eager, and all dominated
by one thought, in the wild headlong scramble for wealth:
Gold! Gold! Gold!
Although our crew had shipped to discharge the cargo,
all hands except the captain and mate went ashore the
foUowing morning, landing at Clark's Point.

SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849

BARQUE "CORNELIA L. BEVAN."
f,S>^ lutt It' 94

SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 83
Wending my way up the hUl, I was so fortunate as
to meet a " Marbleheader " I knew well, who, after a
hearty handshake, informed me that I would find a
restaurant just over the hUl kept by a townsman,
Mr. Benjamin Dixey, adding, " You will find all the
' Marbleheaders ' there, and get all the news."
For a few moments after I had entered the restaurant
it seemed as if I had struck the old town again. Here
I obtained all the news about the mines, who had gone,
cost of outfit, what townsmen were in port, and general
information upon other matters, then I started for the
ship to get my sea chest, which had been left on board.
Half way down the hill by the roadside stood a shanty
built of rough boards and canvas, with a sign over the
door bearing the name of one of the swell hotels of New
York City, " Delmonico's."
Stopping a moment to glance inside, I noticed a young
man in a red shirt, standing in the doorway, looking
intently at me.
" Why, Jack! " he suddenly burst out with, " where
in thunder did you spring from? "
It dawned upon me in a moment, it was my old school
mate and chum, Ambrose Allen, whom I had not seen
since my first voyage.
Mutual congratulations and comparing of notes occu
pied the next hour, at the end of which it was agreed
that I should stop there, at the shanty, — hotel, I mean.
The terms were $50 per week, plenty to eat if one was not
too fastidious, and a good bunk to sleep in; what more
would one wish? Of course the bar made it a little noisy,
and a free fight, now and then, made everything exciting
and lively. Although about every man carried a revolver,
or some weapon, they were seldom resorted to. Each
man knew his opponent was armed, and the drawing of

84 OCEAN LIFE
a knife or gun was the signal for a battle to the death,
or at least severe wounding. Men would hesitate before
being killed or perhaps permanently disabled for any
small quarrel, and generally settled the matter with fists.
My chum said if I did not find anything to do in a few
days, he would speak to Capt. WUham Stacey, his pro
spective father-in-law, and get me work on board his
ship as cook at $200 per month, until we should make
up our minds what we would do, whether to go to the
mines or not.
I worked on shore at odd jobs for a week, but not
having money to purchase an outfit, I abandoned the
idea of gold digging. My chum got his discharge, his pay
amounting to quite a sum, and we fell in with a Marble
head captain (Captain Hector Dixey), who was in com
mand of a small schooner named " Eagle," between 80
and 90 tons burthen, that had come out in '49 during the
excitement and was then owned by Dunbar & Co., mer
chants in San Francisco. She was bound to Portland,
Oregon, with freight and passengers, who were going to
take up land offered by the United States government.
To encourage settlers the government was for a short
time giving out grants of 320 acres of land to one person,
or if two, 640 acres, as a homestead to all who would settle
on it and improve the land. A great many from San
Francisco availed themselves of this offer. Picking up
another " Marbleheader " (William Swasey), who acted
in the capacity of mate, and four others whose acquaint
ance we had made, one acting as cook, we shipped for
a trip to Portland, wages $100 per month. SaUors were
hard to get, at this time, even for short trips, and wages
ran from $100 to $150 per month, high wages for Jack,
but this was more than balanced by the high cost of
everything on shore. A sailor, or any one who could turn

SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 85
his hand to anything that came along, although not an
expert, could always command high pay; whUe on ship
board, food costing nothing, $100 a month was very good.
Jack in San Francisco, in these days, was a very inde
pendent character, who dictated his own terms.
SaUing from the bay, we encountered head winds and
fogs, and two weeks passed before we arrived off the
mouth of the Columbia River. We crossed the bar a little
after noon, and arrived at Astoria, fifteen miles inside,
before sunset.
Astoria, named for John Jacob Astor, of New York,
had been untU recently the trading post of the old Hud
son Bay Fur Company, which had removed to Vancouver's
Island. It contained one little frame house, a few log
huts, and the fort of the old trading company.
The forest extended to the beach. Save a few whites,
the inhabitants were Indians, genuine red men of the
forest, but fast disappearing before the onward march of
civihzation. "Where swam the squaw's light birch canoe,
The steamer smokes and raves,
While city lots are staked and sold.
Above old Indian graves."
Sickness, diseases of the white man that they knew
not how to treat, was decimating their numbers, and
our pilot pointed out a neck of land on which he said there
were over a thousand Indians only a year before, but
now, not one, almost all having been swept off by small
pox and other forms of disease, while those who had not
died had moved away from the stricken spot.
SaUing up the Columbia, we passed Coffin Rock on
the right. This was a large, flat rock or small island,
which was used as a burial place for the Indians. It was

86 OCEAN LIFE
covered with canoes, each containing the corpse of an
Indian, with his implements of war, bow, arrows, pot
tery, etc. It had been burnt off by the whites, and the
pUot said woiUd be again, when the Indians would no
doubt abandon it as a place for burial.
A singular rock stood near the middle of the river,
rising hke a shaft from the bed of the stream to a height
of forty or fifty feet above the surface, perpendicular on
all sides, with shrubs growing on the top. The scenery
was magnificent. The river banks, rising from the water's
edge hundreds of feet in height, were crowned with giant
pines, extending heavenward a hundred and fifty feet
or more, whUe each turn and bend of the river opened up
new beauties, which at night, under a fuU moon, formed
a picture long to be remembered.
Entering the mouth of the Willamette, we arrived at
Portland City, making fast under the bank.
Portland, at this time, was a city only in name. The
site was laid out, but the virgin forests extended nearly
to the river's banks, which were from thirty to fifty feet
above the stream. The trees had been felled, and the
ground cleared for five or six hundred yards back from
the river's bank, but the stumps were standing in every
direction. There were a dozen or more log houses, no
streets, and one small frame building only, which served
as a general store for whites and Indians.
After landing passengers and freight, the fo'c'sle hands
became restless, and having had a difference with Mr.
Swasey, the mate, we left in a body, rented a log house,
and settled down to enjoy life on shore. I employed, to
cook for us, the cook of a barque who had been left on
shore sick but had now recovered. We lacked nothing
in the food line, for we had laid in a liberal stock of pro
visions at the store; also guns and ammunition, for the

SAN FRANCISCO. — ASTORIA 87
river was alive with game, — ducks and geese, — and its
waters were teeming with fish, the finest salmon being daily
speared by the Indians at the falls just above the city.
Here we remained, leading a sort of nomad life, for
a month, until, tiring of its monotony, we shipped on the
barque " Susan Drew," Captain Drew, for " Frisco."
No men being obtainable in the port for the voyage,
we asked and received two hundred dollars per month,
with the contract to discharge the cargo at the same
wages. A short, pleasant run brought us again to port in San
Francisco, where two weeks were used up in discharging
the cargo of round timber, after which we took our dis
charge from the vessel.
Some two months were spent in port, most of the time
working on board ships in the harbor at big pay.
September 9, 1850, California was admitted into the
Union, the 31st State. It was a gala day, and was cele
brated with all the eclat that could be contributed by
brass bands, parades, burning of powder, and firing of
cannon, with Uluminations and fireworks at night. Every
one entered into the spirit of the occasion and the whole
affair was voted a grand success.
We were now pretty well in funds, and as everything
was so high in San Francisco, it was agreed upon by the
six of us to take a run to Valparaiso, S. A., have a general
good time, as we looked upon it in those days, then return
to San Francisco and make a lot more money.
Looking back through the vista of years, I can now
see how foolish and improvident was the course we were
pursuing, but I can only say that we were like thousands
of other saUors, living only for the day and hour, with no
thought of the morrow, or of laying up our earnings
against the time of need.

88 OCEAN LIFE
Shipping on the barque " Zingari," of Salem, Mass.,
Captain Eaton, we dropped down the bay, and crossed
the bar, bidding adieu to the Golden Gate, for a few
months, as we then supposed, I little dreaming it woiUd
be ten or twelve years before I again passed its portals,
and then as captain of a fine ship.
Discharging our pilot, we shaped our course south.

CHAPTER X
1850 - 1851
CHILE AND PERU.  ITALY. — COTTON - SCREWING AND
" CHANTIES " ON NEW ORLEANS LEVEES
After a pleasant run of six weeks with nothing of
note occurring, we entered the spacious harbor of Val
paraiso, a fine bay, but open to the " northers," which
at times blow with great violence, and cause a heavy
sea, or ground-swell, making communication between
the ship and shore difficult, and at times dangerous.
The holding ground is good, however, and unless a ship
breaks from her anchorage, disasters seldom occur.
The view of the city and sy-;;rounding hUls, from the
bay, is very fine.
As we had only shipped for the riin to Valparaiso, we
were discharged the following day, taking up our quarters
at a boarding-house bearing the cognomen of " The Old
House at Home," at the foot of the " Main Top HiU,"
so caUed. Here we remained for several weeks, until,
our funds getting low, we sought an opportunity of
returning to California, but found this no easy matter.
We worked on board ships in the bay for a month, and
finding no chance of returning to San Francisco, we
shipped on a large centreboard schooner, caUed the
" Sarah," flying the Chilian flag, for a trip down the
coast and return to Valparaiso. The cargo consisted of
89

90 OCEAN LIFE
provisions and mining suppUes for the ports of Coqmmbo,
Huasco, Copiapo, Cobija, Chile, and Iquiqui and Arica in
Peru. We landed our cargo on the beach with boats, most
of the ports being nothing but an open roadstead. The
surf was high, at times, rendering landing with an open
boat a ticklish and frequently a dangerous undertaking,
but with great care our cargo was all gotten on shore
safely. On the eastern side rain is abundant, but along this
part of the coast rain never falls; the high peaks of the
Andes forming a watershed that draws every drop of
moisture from the clouds passing over. There are heavy
dews at night. There is no vegetation, no drinking-water,
except that distilled from the salt water at the works
that supply the inhabitants. The town wore a dry and
arid look. Earthquakes are of frequent occurrence.
We experienced many shocks while at Valparaiso, some
very severe, shaking down a number of dwellings, but
we became so accustomed to them that they occasioned
no alarm unless of very ueiusual severity.
We returned to Valparaiso, after five weeks absence,
and finding no opportunity of going back to California,
we shipped on the barque " Antelope," Captain Zenas
Crosby, bound for Coquimbo, Chile, to load skins and
pig copper for New York. The cargo was taken on
board and stowed by the crew. It was hard, back-
breaking work, carrying the big rough pigs of copper
with their jagged edges, — some weighing a hundred
pounds or more, — from one part of the hold to another.
It was not stowed in a solid mass, but first dunnage,
consisting of planks, then a layer of pigs, — not close
together, but a foot apart, — then a layer of bales of
skins over aU, and on top of these another layer of pigs,

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 91
and so on, in alternate layers, untU the lading was com
pleted. Although it was a heavy cargo, the manner of
stowing made it springy.
Sundays we had liberty, one watch at a time, and
embraced the opportunity of visiting the city of Coquimbo,
situated about nine mUes from the port or roadstead,
and hiring horses with saddles, for a dollar each, we set
out on the gallop over a good road. The day was bright
with sunshine, a fine brisk breeze blowing, an ideal day
for horseback riding. Being a fair horseman, I thoroughly
enjoyed it, but several of my companions cut but a sorry
figure on horseback, and several tumbles were the conse
quence, but no serious mishap. Arriving at the city, we
rode around awhile, but found not a great deal to interest
us, streets not over clean, low flat-roofed houses, one and
two story, and a strong odor of garlic pervading the
atmosphere everywhere. We visited a few of the churches,
after which we purchased some delicious white grapes
and other fruits, for luncheon, while our horses rested,
and again mounting, arrived at the port just at sunset,
having greatly enjoyed the trip.
Our lading completed, all was made ready for sea. It
was now near midwinter in the southern hemisphere,
and anticipating severe weather rounding Cape Horn,
our best sails were bent, and running gear carefuUy looked
after. We saUed from Coquimbo with a strong northerly
wind, and passed the latitude of Cape Horn in ten or
twelve days from port, when, taking a strong, westerly
gale, we scudded past under a close-reefed main topsaU,
and reefed foresail, with a fearful sea sweeping after,
every wave having a most ominous look as it rose high
above the taffrail, but our good barque seemed to realize
the danger, and rose to each mountain of water as hght
and graceful as a bird. Squalls of snow and haU, beating

92 OCEAN LIFE
fiercely upon us, followed each other in rapid succession,
whUe two men at the wheel had all the work they could
do to keep the barque before it, yet she was not a hard-
steering craft.
It was at this time I met with an accident, which but
for a merciful providence would probably have ended my
career. About four bells, in the mid-watch, during the height
of the gale, the head of the main spencer blew adrift,
and an order came instantly from the mate, for one of
the watch to take a spare gasket, lay aloft, and secure it.
This was no easy matter, as the shrouds were cased with
sleet and snow, while the running gear was stiff with ice.
The ship was rolling heavUy as she drove before the blast,
while the night was dark as Erebus, save momentary
gleams of phosphorescent brightness from the surges as
they swept past. Standing near the main rigging, I
procured a gasket, and started aloft. I was very heavUy
dressed, in thick clothing and monkey jacket with oU-
skins over all, thick sea-boots and .mittens. Opposite
the spencer gaff, just under the maintop, I was obUged
to swing out from the rigging, grasp the running gear,
and with legs wound about the sail to smother it. I
worked with both hands at getting the gasket passed.
As I could do nothing with mittens on, I dropped them,
and during the sharp heavy rolls I would cling on with
my fingers like fish-hooks. Just as the last turns were
passed and the sails secured, the barque gave an unusuaUy
heavy roll. My benumbed fingers, stiff with the cold,
refused to hold on, and down I went by the run, and now
my thick clothing and heavy sea-boots saved me. Strik
ing the edge of the pin-rail around the mainmast with
my heels, and breaking a piece out, I shot into the scupper,
striking my shoulder, but not my head.

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 93
Although not seriously injured, I lay there, stunned,
the breath being about knocked out of my body, and
picking me up, the watch carried me into the cabin,
where I soon recovered my wind. Captain Crosby,
after an examination, finding no bones broken, and
nothing worse than a severe shaking up, administered to
me a stiff glass of brandy, and I resumed my watch on
deck, though feeling the effects in a general soreness for
days after.
Having passed the Horn and rounded Staten Land,
we sped on with favorable gales under all the canvas
the " Antelope " could carry, towards the belt of S. E.
trades, and crossing the equator, and entering the N. E.
trades, passing the Windward Islands, Bermuda, Cape
Hatteras, and the Gulf Stream, struck soundings on
Yankee land once more, and taking a pilot off Barnegat
Light, the " Antelope " arrived safely at New York,
without the loss of a saU, spar, or man, eighty-two days
from Coquimbo.
We were paid off the following day, and my chum
Ambrose Allen and I parted from our shipmates and
took the steamer that night for Newport and FaU River,
thence by raU to Boston and Marblehead, where we
received a warm welcome from our friends.
This voyage ended the seagoing experience of my
schoolmate. His father wished him to go into business
with him on shore, so Ambrose abandoned the sea. He
was a loyal, staunch friend through hfe. He married the
sweetheart of his boyhood days, a lovely giri, and when
at home from my voyages in after years, we spent many
happy hours at his house or at his store, recaUing our
early experiences in CaUfornia, or along the Pacific
coast. After a short stay on shore, I shipped on the barque

94 OCEAN LIFE
" Kepler," for a voyage to the Mediterranean, with a
cargo of naval stores for the port of Spezzia, Italy, at
that time a naval rendezvous for our fleet in Mediter
ranean waters. A pleasant run brought us to the Strait
of Gibraltar, through which we passed in daylight, hav
ing a fine view of the Spanish coast with the island
and light-house of Tarifa, and the mountains of
Spain, while on the south towered the giant peaks of
the African shore, ending with the high bluff prom
ontory of Cape Spartel, marking the western entrance
of the straits, and Gibraltar standing like a giant
sentinel guarding the eastern entrance. We saUed past
Malaga, and the sunny shores of Spain with its moun
tains in the background, past Cape de Gata and the
Balearic Islands, and crossing the Gulf of Genoa, entered
the port of Spezzia, passing between an island on our
right and the mainland, a narrow channel through which
a strong tide ran.
Having discharged our cargo at the government dock,
the " Kepler " saUed in ballast for Palermo, Sicily, to
load fruit for Boston. A run of a few days brought us
to that port, and drawing in under the high land, the
strong gusts from off the hUls obliged us to take in our
kites in a hurry, but once around the long mole, we were
in a fine harbor sheltered from aU winds.
Off this port wiU be seen in the illustration the barque
" Cornelia L. Bevan," owned by Isaac Jeanes of Phila
delphia. It is copied, by courtesy of Mr. Joseph Y.
Jeanes, son of the owner, from a painting made at Palermo,
and is a good specimen of a Baltimore clipper of sixty
years ago. She was buUt in that city in 1847, for the
Mediterranean trade, although she did make a voyage
to San Francisco and back. Her dimensions were:
registered tonnage, 330; length 108 feet; beam 25 feet.

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 95
7 inches; depth of hold 13 feet, 3 inches; square stern and
female figurehead.
Sicily is a large island, with an area of nine thousand
nine hundred and thirty-six square mUes, lying off the
southern and western end of Italy, and belonging to
that government. A fine view of Mt. iEtna can be
obtained from the harbor, towering high above the rest
of the island, with an elevation of a little upwards of ten
thousand eight hundred feet. The day after our arrival,
its summit was white with fresh snow that had fallen
during the night, presenting a beautiful appearance in
the sunlight, contrasted with the vivid green farther
down the slope of the mountain. Palermo and Messina
are the principal ports, from which large shipments of
fruit, principally oranges and lemons, are made to London
and Liverpool, as well as the United States. Trapani,
on the northwestern end of the island, is also a great
shipping port for salt brought from Marsala, where there
are extensive salt-pans, the salt being heaped in great
mounds resembling snow-drifts when viewed from the
water with the sun shining on them.
Having completed our lading, — oranges and lemons,
— the " Kepler " took her departure from Palermo,
and after a quick run from Gibraltar with a fair passage
of thirty-six days across, — not bad in the month of
February, — we took a pilot, and were shortly fast along
side Central Wharf, Boston, where the crew were paid
off. I made a run to New Orleans on the barque " Ionia,"
and then joined the ship " Governor Davis " of " Train's
White Diamond Line." We loaded cotton for Liverpool,
and returned to Boston with emigrants, some three
hundred in the steerage. Very rough weather was
experienced on this passage over, and the passengers

96 OCEAN LIFE
suffered accordingly. Gale succeeded gale, with a frightful
sea, and it was necessary to keep the passengers below,
with hatches on, for days at a time. When they were
removed the men were sent below with buckets of tar
and red hot irons plunged in them to fumigate the hold
and between-decks. Two deaths occurred and one
passenger had his leg broken by a cask breaking away
in a gale. With the record of sixty-eight days from Liver
pool, we anchored in Lighthouse Channel, Boston, badly
iced up, with crew frost-bitten and thoroughly fagged
out. From the " Governor Davis " I went to the " TirreU,"
a large ship, commanded by Captain Thomas Hyler,
as third mate, and made another voyage to Liverpool,
returning to Boston with four hundred and twenty
emigrants. This was another long, hard passage. We
had heavy gales, with plenty of snow and haU squaUs,
with high seas. Sixty days was our record this time,
between Liverpool and Boston.
I left the " TirreU " in Boston, and having had enough
of western ocean winter voyages, I signed the articles of
the ship " Emperor," Captain Knott Pedrick, as third
mate, bound to New Orleans. The " Emperor " was a
ship of seven hundred tons burthen, having fine accom
modations for cabin passengers. Sailing from Boston in
ballast, we arrived safely, and loaded cotton for Havre,
France. New Orleans, at this time, was the great shipping
port of the South for exporting cotton to Europe, although
Mobile, Savannah and Charleston also shipped great
quantities. In the winter months, all along the levees at New
Orleans lay tiers of shipping of all nationalities, loading
cotton for the northern ports of the United States, as

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 97
well as the various ports of Europe. The river front is
shaped like a crescent, and from this fact New Orleans
takes its name of the " Crescent City." For miles along
the banks, or levees, extends the shipping, lying in tiers,
loading cotton, staves, or tobacco, but principaUy cotton.
The bales were rolled from the levee by the stevedores'
gangs, generally roustabout darkies, up the staging, and
tumbled on deck and down the hold, where they were
received by gangs of cotton-screwers, there being as
many gangs in the ship's hold as could work to advantage.
The bales were placed in tiers, and when they would
apparently hold no more, with the aid of planks and
powerful cotton-screws, several bales would be driven in
where it would appear to a novice impossible to put one.
Four men to a screw constituted a gang, and it was a
point of honor to screw as many bales in a ship's hold as
could possibly be crammed in, and in some cases even
springing the decks upwards, such a power was given by
the screw. All this work was accompanied by a song,
often improvised and sung by the " chantie " man, the
chorus being taken up by the rest of the gang. Each
gang possessed a good " chantie " singer, with a fine voice.
The chorus would come in with a vim, and every pound
in the muscles of the gang would be thrown into the
handle-bars of the cotton-screws, and a bale of cotton
would be driven in where there appeared to be but a
few inches of space.
The songs or " chanties " from hundreds of these gangs
of cotton-screwers could be heard all along the river
front, day after day, making the levees of New Orleans
a lively spot. As the business of cotton-screwing was
duU during the summer months, the majority of the
gangs, aU being good saUors, shipped on some vessel
that was bound to some port in Europe to pass the heated

98 OCEAN LIFE
term and escape the " yeUow Jack," which was prevalent
at that season. When they returned in the fall they
could command high wages at cotton-screwing on ship
board. Some would go to northern ports, but generaUy
the autumn found them aU back, ready for their winter's
work. " Chantie " singing was not confined to the gangs of
cotton screwers. In the days of the old saUing ships
almost all the work on shipboard was accompanied by
a song or " chantie." My old friend Captain George
Meacom, of Beverly, nephew of my old commander.
Captain Edward Meacom of the ship " Brutus," in an
able article in the Boston Transcript, says in regard to
the old time chantie songs:
" Fifty years ago, in my early sea life, when the
American merchant marine was at its zenith, and the
deep-water clipper sailing ship carried the broom at its
masthead, no first-class well-appointed saUing ship would
think of shipping its crew without having at least one
good ' chantie man ' among them. For with the old-
style hand-brake windlass for getting the anchors, the
heavy, single topsails and courses to handle, it was
necessary, in order to secure the combined power of the
men, that unison of effort should be made, especially
while heaving up the anchor, mastheading the topsails,
getting the tacks of the courses aboard and the sheets
aft, or pumping ship, and this could better be well done
by the assistance of a good ' chantie ' song. With twenty-
five or thirty men's efforts worked as a unit, this great,
combined power would be sure to bring desired results
in all heavy work. Noticing an article recently pub
lished, the writer said, ' I have passed many miserable
hours pumping out leaks from wooden ships, but I was
never so fortunate as to hear a pumping chantie.'

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 99
" In my early days of sea life ships were driven hard,
and saU carried on the vessel to the utmost limit, that
quick passages might be made, with the result that the
vessel often being strained, — it not being uncommon
for the whole body structure of the ship to quiver, —
would leak considerably, and in order to keep her cargo
from being damaged, it would be necessary to pump the
water out of the vessel at stated periods, and at these
times the pumping ' chantie ' song came in place and
served its purpose admirably. Among these songs were
the following: " ' Mobile Bat
" ' Were you ever down in Mobile Bay,
Johnnie, come tell us and pump away.
A-screwing cotton by the day,
Johnnie, come tell us and pump away,
Aye, aye, pump away,
Johnnie, come tell us and pump away,' etc.
" ' Fire Down Below
" ' Fire in the galley, fire in the house.
Fire in the beef kid, scorching scouse;
Fire, fire, fire down below: fetch a bucket of watsr.
Fire down below,' etc.
" ' One More Day for Johnnie
" ' Only one more day for Johnnie,
Only one more day:
Oh, rock and roll me over,
Only one more day,' etc.
" AU of the named ' chanties ' the writer of this once
took pride in singing. as a chantie man when before the
mast as a sailor, and, in later years, after becoming an
officer and captain, he found that the early acquisition
was valuable as a critic of good ' chantie ' singing, and
although more than one half of a century has passed, yet

100 OCEAN LIFE
the old ' chantie ' song wiU start the blood tinghng with
the vim of the days of yore."
The phrase " carried the broom at its masthead,"
in Captain Meacom's letter, is a reference to a custom
of the old Dutch ships, signifying their abUity to sweep
the seas.
Ships were constantly coming and going, the great
tows nightly leaving for their long journey down the
Mississippi to the sea, or rather to the bar, for it was a
problem whether a ship, after arriving at the mouth of
the river, would be able, if she drew much water, to cross
the bar, and I have known ships to be weeks aground
before the powerful tugboats could drag them through
the mud, three or more tugs often being hitched on to
one ship. All this has been changed since Eads com
pleted his jetties, deepening the channel so that ships of
heavy draft enter and leave without trouble.
The " Emperor," being loaded, left the city at eight p. m.
in tow of the tugboat, and arrived at the bar the following
morning. Here, finding a high stage of water, we crossed
without difficulty, and proceeded down the GiUf of Mexico,
en route for Havre, France. The " Emperor " carried
three passengers, a lady, child and servant.
After a pleasant passage of forty-six days, we entered
the basin of the docks of Havre, and discharging the
cotton, some four hundred steerage passengers were taken
on board, over three-quarters of whom were women and
girls, with ages ranging from seventeen to thirty-seven,
a fine lot, mostly French and German, with a sprinkUng
of Swiss, who were bound to New York, and thence to
a western State to work in a factory or mill, on some
special line of goods. The run across was most delightful.
Quartering winds and a smooth sea produced no sea
sickness, and having a good band on board amongst the

CHILE AND PERU. — ITALY 101
men passengers. Captain Pedrick invited the girls, in the
evening, to dance; allowing the crew, mostly Germans
and Swedes, to join them from seven to nine p. m. as
partners. The ship, having a full poop deck extending to
mainmast, afforded splendid faciUties for dancing, which
was improved by the girls on every opportunity, and the
kindness of Captain Pedrick was appreciated by all on
board. A quick run of nineteen days brought the " Emperor "
to the port of New York, and taking a pilot, we passed
Sandy Hook, receiving the doctor on board, who detained
us but a short time. Captain Pedrick received the
compliment of having the finest lot of steerage passengers
ever brought to the port of New York.

CHAPTER XI
1851 1852
ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO.  CAPE PEMBROKE. 
PORT STANLEY.  AN INTERNATIONAL INCIDENT
Having a desire for long voyages in preference to the
Atlantic trade, I left New York for Boston, where I
joined the ship " Revere," Captain Howes, as second
mate, for a voyage to Callao, Peru. The cargo consisted
of ice in the hold, and lumber between decks. The
" Revere " was a fine ship of about seven hundred tons.
A quick run was made from Boston to the equator,
when, taking the S. E. trades, we continued on until in
the latitude of the Falkland Islands; from thence the
course was shaped for the Straits of Le Maire, between
the island of Staten Land and Patagonia.
Although the weather was thick and no observation
had been taken, or any land sighted. Captain Howes,
feeling confident of his position, shaped his course to
pass through at night.
I had the first watch on deck, from 8 p. m. until mid
night. It was very hazy, but the sea was smooth, with
an eight to ten knot breeze blowing, no indication of bad
weather, and with a favoring wind we set the foretopmast
stunsail. At eight bells, Mr. Bird, the first officer, came on deck
to relieve me, taking the course, and we passed some ten
102

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 103
minutes in conversation, congratulating each other on
the fine prospect for a quick run around the Cape.
Going below, I turned in, but before dropping off to
sleep I heard the order to brace forward, and take in the
stunsaU; then turning over, I fell into a sound slumber,
from which I was suddenly awakened, hearing four
bells strike, and was wondering what woke me, when the
ship struck with a shock that brought my head in contact
with a beam, causing me to see more stars than I ever
imagined were made, but gathering my senses and think
ing we were in collision with another ship, I sprang from
my berth and rushed for the deck, meeting Captain Howes
in the companionway, who, emerging from the cabin door,
ran to wind'ard. Hearing the order to haul aback the
main yard, I sprang to leeward, throwing off the lee
braces. The night was black, and coming from the light
of the cabin, I could for a few moments distinguish
nothing. The ship was lying heeled well over on her
port side, and with her yards thrown aback worked and
pounded with such force that we expected every moment
the spars would come about our ears.
In the meantime, becoming accustomed to the dark
ness, I jumped on a spar, and looking over the side, could
see the white sand and huge boulders by which we were
surrounded, and I then knew we were ashore on the bleak
coast of Terra del Fuego, an island off the southern end
of Patagonia, inhabited by the lowest type of cannibalistic
savages. The shore was bold, and we could now make out the
high land looming black through the fog almost directly
over us. Our only salvation lay in getting the ship afloat;
unless we did, the probability was we should have to take
to our boats and effect a landing on Staten Land, on the
eastern side of the straits, taking the chance of being

104 OCEAN LIFE
rescued by some passing vessel, or else make for the
Chihan settlement of Sandy Point, Straits of Magellan.
Fortunately we were not brought to this pass, as the
strong gusts of wind swept down from the high land,
and every sail being thrown aback, the ship began to
careen and work, jumping until we trembled for the spars.
Everything held firm, however, and in the course of from
twenty minutes to half an hour, she gave one final jump,
and slid stern first into deep water. As she swung around,
the yards were trimmed and she was steered offshore
by the sails. Our steering apparatus was disabled, for
a time the rudder was useless, both arms that worked
the rudder-head with a system of cogs having been
smashed. By the time we had made an offing of a half-mile or
so, the courses were hauled up, and pumps sounded by
the carpenter. Anxiously we awaited the report that
came in the ominous reply of " Chips " to Captain Howes'
interrogatory: " Two feet nine inches, sir! "
All knew our condition was now serious. The carpenter
was set at work fitting spare arms to the rudder-head so
the ship could be steered, while the pumps were rigged
with brakes to which to hitch the lines, making the task
of continuous pumping easier for the men. This done,
the pumps were manned, and a rousing song started,
which never stopped for ten hours, or untU two o'clock
in the afternoon.
At this time, the rudder-head being in order, the pumps,
which had shown no indication of sucking, were again
sounded, and a gain of the leak was reported. It was
then four feet!
A consultation of all hands was called and the con
sensus of opinion was that it would be folly to attempt

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 105
a passage around Cape Horn in our condition, the unani
mous verdict being to bear up for the Falkland Islands,
and make Port Stanley, if possible, so the pumps having
been manned with a fresh gang, the " Revere's " course
was shaped for Cape Pembroke, F. I.
All boats were put in order with provisions and water,
with tackles on the yards ready to hoist and swing
should it become necessary to leave the ship at any time,
and, all being in readiness, the crew relieving each other
at the pumps in gangs, it was nothing but clang, clang,
clang of the pumps, day and night, the water gushing
from the scuppers as clear as alongside.
No other work was being done but to trim sails.
During the three days before we sighted Cape Pem
broke, the weather was delightful. A fine eight or ten
knot breeze blowing, with the wind dead aft, and a
smooth sea. All hands had cabin fare: canned meats
and cabin stores were served out freely to the crew, as
it was not known at what moment we might have to
abandon the ship. It might be a change of wind that
would — owing to the quantity of water in her —
throw her on her beam ends and render her unmanageable,
or a storm might arise at any time in this latitude, that
would bring matters to a climax.
The wind holding steady, and the sea continuing
smooth, we sighted Cape Pembroke the third day, round
ing which, the ship entered a long reach of smooth water, —
hke a miU pond, — between Green Island and the cape.
Bringing the wind abeam caused her to hst heavily to
starboard, and the sounding-rod showed some nine feet
of water in the hold just before rounding the cape. We
had now an opportunity to look at our surroundings,
being in comparative safety. The reach was narrow,
and the shore was lined with penguins, standing on one

106 OCEAN LIFE
leg, as regular as a troop of soldiers drawn up in line,
which they very much resembled. The whole of Cape
Pembroke was covered with nests of sea-fowl, or rather
the eggs, which lay in every direction about the rocks.
Working up into Port Stanley, the inner harbor of
Port WiUiam, we entered the snuggest haven that a
ship was ever in.
Stanley Harbor is oblong in shape, about four miles
long, by a mile and a half wide, with a depth of from
five to eight fathoms, completely landlocked save the
narrow entrance from Port WiUiam, with good, sandy
beaches, an ideal spot for a disabled ship to undergo
repairs. Dropping anchor, we were at once visited by
old Captain William H. SmUey, our American consul at
the Falkland Islands, who carried on, in addition to
consular duties, a sealing business on the coasts of Pata
gonia, Terra del Fuego, and adjacent islands, as well as
the South Shetlands. He had a brig and two or three
small schooners, with a number of whale-boats.
After a conference, it was decided to haul alongside
an old hulk lying in the port, put our stores on board,
raft the lumber and throw the ice that was in the hold
overboard, heave down and examine the amount of
damage, hold a survey, and decide what was best to be
done. The town, situated on the opposite side of the entrance
to the harbor, was small, consisting of a hundred dwell
ings, — a story and a half and two story buildings, —
with a court-house and jail, and at the lower end of the
bay the more pretentious residence of the governor.
The population numbered from six hundred to eight
hundred, largely composed of pensioners of the English
army, old soldiers, receiving a pension of sixpence or a
shilling, and perhaps more, per day, placed there with

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 107
their families and given a house and land to cultivate.
Here in this far-off corner of the earth, they could eke
out an existence.
- There was no lack of food. Sea-fowl were abundant,
and the islands were overrun with hares and rabbits.
Rabbit served in every style was the regular bUl of fare
whUe we lay there.
Having disposed of our lumber at a good price to
" Dean & Co.," the only mercantile house in the port, we
hoisted out the cakes of ice, dumping them in the harbor
untU the waters around the ship looked like a small
section of the Arctic Ocean!
All the stores, with the belongings of officers and
crew, were removed to the hulk, where we now lived.
From a whaler coming in homeward bound, we pro
cured her cutting in falls and blocks, and reeving pur
chases at our ship's fore and main mastheads, hove down
to Captain SmUey's brig, bringing the " Revere " out of
water on the port side to her keel, which was found to be
nearly gone. The garboard-streak was cut half through,
lower part of rudder gone, the stem knocked off, and
pieces gouged out of her bUge a fathom or two in length,
not leaving but an eighth of an inch thickness of plank.
The copper was wholly torn off of her port side, with
great copper bolts driven up through the kelson six inches
and more. She was a sorry sight, and had she been loaded
with any other cargo than ice and lumber, it would have
been impossible to have saved her. Procuring a piece
of English oak for a stem, and heavy oak plank for the
keel, replacing plank where gouged out, we caulked all
seams, pitching over all, fitted lower end to the rudder,
and naUed down the ragged ends of copper, and the good
ship " Revere " was again tight and sound as temporary
repairs could make her.

108 OCEAN LIFE
The work on the ship was done by the officers and crew,
under the supervision of the ship's carpenter.
Our stay at Port Stanley covered four months, the
weather during that time being very changeable; bright
sunshine followed quickly by sharp squaUs of snow or
haU. Eight or ten times during repairs it would come on
to blow so heavUy as to oblige us to let her up, and all
were heartUy rejoiced when the work was completed.
During our stay a man was hung for murder, the first
execution that had occurred on the island.
One incident took place while we were there, that
illustrated what a little thing may sometimes stir up ill
feeling between two nations.
Captain SmUey, in former years, had let loose a few
hogs upon the West Falkland, an uninhabited island of
the group, which multiplied until at this time there were
large numbers of them running wild.
A whale-ship named the " Columbus," having a tender
called the " George Washington," was cruising on the
whahng grounds about the Falklands and Patagonia,
and a boat's crew, landing on the West Falkland, shot a
number of the hogs. A week after this occurrence, six
men from the " Columbus " deserted in a whale-boat,
and came up to the East Falkland (Port Stanley), where
they reported to the governor that the captain of the
" Columbus " and " George Washington " had been
guilty of shooting and steahng hogs from off the West
Falklands, possessions of her Majesty Queen Victoria.
The governor of the colony, who had been recently
sent out, and felt the importance of his position, was
horrified, and at once wrote to Montevideo, Uruguay, for
an English man-of-war to be sent down.
In the meantime, Captain Smiley, getting wind of
what was going on, employed the boat's crew who deserted

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 109
from the whaler on board his brig, and when he got them
there he kept them there, allowing no communication
with the shore, and the next sailing of the mail packet
carried a note to the American consul at Montevideo,
requesting an American war vessel and stating the facts.
About ten days passed, and there sailed into the harbor
of Port Stanley a ten-gun English brig. Salutes were
fired and visits exchanged between the governor and
the brig's commander. The following morning the brig
saUed. The English brig had been gone but a few days when
the tall spars of a Yankee war vessel loomed up over
the point, and the American sloop of war " Germantown "
sailed into the harbor, and anchored above the point,
housing her upper spars, so they could not be seen from
Port William, the outer harbor.
Captain SmUey immediately went on board in full
consular uniform, and a mysterious interchange of visits
began, between his brig and the sloop of war.
Another week had passed, when about three o'clock
in the afternoon, the tender " George Washington "
sailed into the harbor, in charge of a lieutenant of the
English brig and a prize crew! The " Columbus " was
following, with an officer from the brig in charge, but
came to anchor outside of the entrance, neither of them
dreaming of an American sloop of war waiting to receive
them. They were hardly inside, when a lieutenant and boat's
crew from the " Germantown " boarded the tender, and
asked who was in charge.
" I was," said the captain of the tender, " until this
officer was put on board with men, and I was ordered
in here."
" Very well," said the American lieutenant, " you can

110 OCEAN LIFE
take command again of your vessel, and come to anchor
under the guns of the ' Germantown.' Lieutenant,"
turning to the Enghsh officer, " you will give over your
charge, and the boat is at your disposal to go on shore,
or we should be most happy to entertain you on board
our ship until yours arrives."
The same scene was enacted on board the " Columbus,"
with the exception that a number of the crew of the
" Germantown " boarded the ship, and brought her into
the inner harbor, anchoring her near the schooner.
All this was great fun for us, who were now fuUy ahve
to the situation.
The next morning the English brig came in.
The two war vessels saluted each other, and visits
were exchanged between the officers.
The governor went on board, U. S. Consul SmUey,
also, and there was a constant pulling back and forth,
the officers and crew of the U. S. sloop of war " Ger
mantown " and the English man-of-war fraternizing in
the most cordial manner, the governor seeming to be
ignored, somewhat.
In a few days both war vessels sailed.
The whaler " Columbus " recovered her men. Captain
SmUey delivering them on board with the boat they had
stolen. A full report of the affair was sent by our ship
to Washington, and it was also brought to the notice of
the British government, by whom, I afterwards under
stood, the governor was recaUed. A few days after, the
" Revere " sailed for Boston, taking, as passengers.
Captain SmUey's wife and child, and in fifty-eight days
we again entered Boston Harbor, where all hands were
paid off, and the " Revere " went into the dry dock for
full repairs.
The day after our arrival, on taking up the paper, my

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 111
eye caught a head-line in large type, " Insult to the
American Flag," and then followed a long account of
the almost " international affair " in the Falkland
Islands. As I shall not have occasion to refer to the Hon. William
H. Smiley again, I will say that he was in many respects
a most remarkable man, and worthy of a more than
passing notice. Four months at the Falklands, passed
in his company, gave me an opportunity of obtaining
an insight into the character and studying the peculiar
traits of the man.
Tall, possessing a massive frame, a face that would not
have taken the prize for beauty, being seamed and
scarred, but having a firmness about the jaw and mouth
that indicated an iron will; fearless in the face of peril
and always cool in the hour of danger, he was a man
most admirably fitted for the position he held in his little
world in a far-off corner of the earth, from whieh as a
friend of humanity, and a benefactor to mankind, his
deeds were heralded in both Europe and America, being
recognized by both nations.
He was the owner of a number of small schooners
and whale-boats, and in his occupation of sealing about
the Patagonian coast and South Shetlands, as well as
trading with the Indians of Patagonia, Captain Smiley,
with his crew, was exposed to many perils. At one time,
having his men all out sealing, he sailed alone around
Cape Horn; it being said that he was the only man
that ever doubled Cape Horn alone in a fifty-ton
schooner. His adventures among the South Shetlands were most
thrilling, and many nights, in Port Stanley Harbor, I
have lain awake until long after the midnight hour
listening to Captain Smiley's yarns that were being spun

112 OCEAN LIFE
to Captain Howes, who would sit up aU night to hear
them. Captain SmUey died of cholera at Montevideo, in the
year 1871, at the store of the United States consul, Mr.
Parsons, where he was stricken. Mr. WiUiam D. Evans,
a ship chandler of Montevideo, and his manager, Captain
Joseph W. Clapp of Nantucket, a great friend of Captain
Smiley, were with him to the end. As characteristic of
the man, it was said that at the last, a clergyman was
brought in, who started to read a passage from the
Scriptures, but the captain, being in great agony, waved
him back, saying, " Don't read me anything, I am in
too much pain to listen. I am not afraid to die. I've
kept a straight log."
The foUowing obituary notice by the editor, Mr. Mul-
haU, appeared in the Standard of Buenos Ayres:
" It is with profound regret we have to announce to
our readers the death of Captain W. H. Smiley, a worthy
American citizen whose connection with the River Plata
dates so far back as 1808. During the Chilian War of
Independence, Smiley served with great distinction under
our lamented countryman Admiral Browne, and in sub
sequent years played a very conspicuous role in the
waters of the south Pacific and Atlantic. He was born
in Rhode Island in 1792, in the city of Providence, and
well may that little State be proud of her sailor boy, who
in his extraordinary career won the friendship and esteem
of the savages in Patagonia, and the first statesmen of
Europe and America. A man so universally esteemed
must have had high claims to great philanthropy, and
have proved himself in every sense a benefactor to
humanity. " Captain Smiley was one of the most whole-souled
fellows that ever breathed, and possibly no more noble

ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO 113
epitaph could be inscribed over his grave than the long
list of vessels, with their passengers and crews, which
he has been instrumental in saving.
" For upwards of forty years he acted as commercial
agent for the United States at the Falkland Islands,
where he established his headquarters. Although not
belonging to the United States Navy, so highly did his
country prize his services, that his little barque, the
' Kate Sargent,' carried her own guns, and her worthy
commander wore the uniform of the service which his
name adorned, yet not in commission. Mr. Seward
(U. S. Secretary of State under President Lincoln), when
a boy, was cared for by the subject of this memoir, and
Lord Palmerston (English Prime Minister), in his long
connection with foreign affairs, was so frequently brought
in contact with the noble acts of the lamented Smiley,
thathe often expressed a hope that he might some day
or other have the pleasure of meeting this extraordinary
man. " The loss of Captain Smiley will be long felt, not only
by the immediate circle of his friends, at home and
abroad, but by the mercantile marine navigating the
Straits of Magellan, where he was a sort of Neptune,
intimately acquainted with every spot on the Pata
gonian coast, and the best pilot extant for the difficult
navigation of the Straits. Captain Smiley ever found
constant appeals for his services, either from suffering
humanity, to further science in her discoveries, or forward
commerce in her onward march. Success ever crowned
his exertions, and he won the thanks of a trading world
whilst he amassed a fortune for his family. We knew
him, and proud are we to think that one of the privUeges
of an editorial career is to be thrown into contact with
such men. Last year he visited this city in company

114 OCEAN LIFE
with two little orphans, the children of a dead friend, —
whom he brought up at his own expense, — to see the
cities of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo.
" The first gun that saluted the Fourth of July, 1867,
in our harbor, was from the ' Kate Sargent,' and two
years previously he joined the Fourth of July banquet
at the Hotel Provence, and astonished the company by
the naivete of his eloquence.
" Men like Smiley pass from among us, but they leave
their footprints. At his funeral in Montevideo, on Fri
day, the flags in the harbor hung at half-mast, and the
American admiral attended with a full staff of officers,
to pay the last tributes to one of the worthiest sons of
New England. The Rev. Mr. Adams read the funeral
service, a long line of carriages followed in the procession,
and he who saved so many, at last found eternal sal
vation."

CHAPTER XII
1853 - 1854
FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS.  MAYAGUEZ, PORTO RICO.
 SAVANNAH, GA.  ASHORE ON THE DRY TORTUGAS
Stopping at Marblehead, my old home, for a few weeks,
I passed the time in watching the fishermen fitting out
their schooners for a " fall fare " to the Grand Banks and
Quereau and taking aboard stores and water, and while
in conversation with them I chanced to remark that I
had never taken a trip to the Banks, as a boy, but would
like to go very much.
The next afternoon, which was the Sabbath, just
after tea, there came a knock at the front door. There
were no electric bells in those days, but we used the big
old-fashioned brass knockers. Opening the door, I con
fronted Skipper Joshua Nickerson, of the good old
schooner " Ceres." I asked him in, and he stated that he
understood that I would like a trip to the Banks, and he
would be pleased to have me go with him as navigator.
Although, in the science of cod-fishing he was a past
master, he had not mastered the science of navigation.
Considering a few moments, I quickly made up my mind,
and asked the skipper what there would be in it.
" A fuU share, and half the skippership," said he.
This last was an extra remuneration of $75.
115

116 OCEAN LIFE
I replied, " Well, skipper, I'll go," and the bargain
was made.
After a short conversation as to what I would require,
this being a new business for me, he took his leave, and
the following morning I went to work on board the
" Ceres," as one of her crew, getting her ready.
Fishing on the Banks at that time was very different
from the present day. Then all fishing was done from
the vessel, not with trawls and dories, as now carried on;
the big moses boat at the stern davits, and perhaps a
single dory on deck, were all the boats carried. I am now
referring only to the Marblehead men; the French vessels
on the Banks were all trawlers.
The " catch " was divided into shares, the vessel taking
three-eighths, while the remaining five-eighths were divided
among the skipper and crew. In fitting out, the vessel
found what was called the " big general," consisting of
beef and pork, bread, flour, bait, salt and water barrels,
while each man furnished his small stores, known as the
" small general," his tea, coffee, sugar, molasses, vinegar,
and whatever his fancy dictated, in addition to his
fishing gear, not forgetting a small brown jug of fine old
Medford rum, as medical stores.
The day for sailing having arrived, sweethearts and
wives were bidden good-by, and with colors flying, we
rounded Point Neck Light, the men glancing lingeringly
back for a final look at the old town, and, perchance, a
last look at the dear homes of some of the crew, where
wives or mothers would anxiously wait the passing of the
sad, weary days, ere they would again see their loved
ones, if ever, for the Bank fishing, especially " faU fares "
with the September gales, was a dangerous calling, as
the town records of old Marblehead will show; but " men
must work and women must weep," and however dan-

FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 117
gerous, there never lacked brave, hardy men to man her
fishing fleet and take the chances, nor women to watch
like " poor lone Hannah " in Lucy Larcom's poem, while
" Round the rocks of Marblehead
Outward bound a schooner sped."
We passed Marblehead Rock and Half-way Rock, the
latter near enough to enable each man to throw on it
a few copper cents, for good luck, a custom religiously
observed, in those days, by every Bank fisherman sailing
from Marblehead, and was supposed to guarantee a good
fare, if not " wetting their salt," i. e. using it aU up.
Arrived on Quereau, we sighted the fleet, coming to
anchor just at sundown, and throwing over the lines,
found the fish were biting well.
The deck fittings when on the Banks were kids, or
receptacles to hold the fish when caught. There were
three on a side, even with the rail, extending to the
deck, and they would hold two or three hundred fish.
Fishing was done mostly at night; unless they were
very sharp in the daytime, we improved the daylight
to change our berth and throw over the gurry (refuse).
The night watches consisted of two men at the lines for
three hours and twenty minutes, when they were relieved
by two more.
The cook was called at four a. m. At six o'clock, all
hands breakfasted while the cook tended the lines, after
which came " dressing down."
In the waist were high plank in squares, to hold the
fish caught during the night, that were taken from the
kids. .These squares prevented the fish from slipping
about the deck, and in them were stationed one or two
men with sharp knives who cut the throats, and split

118 OCEAN LIFE
the fish, passing the same to the heading and splitting
table, which extended about four feet from the rail to
which it was attached. On one side stood the " header,"
whose business it was to sever the head and remove the
refuse, dropping the livers in the baskets placed under
neath to receive them, from which when full, they were
emptied into the cod liver butt lashed alongside the rail
just forward of the main rigging, to try out in the sun for
the cod liver oil, a fine odorous compound after standing
a month or so, but not unpleasant after one became
accustomed to it, and very healthful.
The fish having been passed across the table to the
splitter, he, with two cuts, removed the backbone, send
ing it to the main hatch to the man who shot him down
the hold to the Salter. This position was only held by
an experienced hand, as too free use of salt would waste
it, while not enough would cause the fish to burn or turn
red, something that would hurt its marketable value.
The tongues and sounds were generaUy cut out and
cleaned by any of the men who wanted them for home
use, as a delicious food supply for the famUy during the
winter months. They packed them down in kegs or
kits in their off hours.
Great halibut were often caught, and besides furnishing
a food supply, the " napes " were always saved by the
crew, for smoking, after being cured. They hung them
in the network under the deck of the forepeak. On the
" Ceres " we had taken a new departure in having a
stove in the cabin, all hands living aft, where all the
cooking was done. This innovation was the death-blow
to the old-fashioned Marblehead smoked halibut, although
adding to the comfort of the crew.
The old-fashioned forepeak, which was the fo'c'sle,
was fitted with a fireplace built of brick directly under

appleton's aa H-iHF, MARBLEHEAD, 1840

FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 119
the fore scuttle, from whence the smoke escaped, or was
supposed to, but as a matter of fact, the forepeak was
generally so ffiled with smoke that one could not see
across it. Above the fireplace hung a heavy iron crane,
from which was suspended a huge iron pot in which aU
the cooking was done. The tea and coffee were made in
it, the chowder and meat were boiled in it, and it was
put to every other use required in the culinary art. To
get up and down one had to clamber over the steps made
directly over the fire, as best he could. An unlucky
shp might land him in the pot, but it was an ideal place
to smoke halibut, as any old Marbleheader can testify.
My old friend and schoolmate. Captain Eben Graves,
used to tell many stories of the times when, as a boy, he
went to the Grand Banks fishing in the old quarter-
decker " Decatur."
Saturday nights at six o'clock the lines were taken in,
and not put out until six o'clock Sunday night, the
cook being ordered to prepare a pot of rice chocolate.
The big kettle was fiUed two-thirds full of water in which
rice was boUed, with chocolate added. It was sweetened
with molasses, and imbibed during the evening, hot, as
a great treat, the occasion being a gala one, interspersed
with song and story. Sunday was a day for general
visiting among the fleet if the weather was good, as no
fishing was carried on.
For awhile the fishing continued good, and we were
doing fine work, then it fell off, and we almost daily
changed our berth. Gales and rough weather succeeded.
At the end of three months we had salted down nearly
sixteen thousand fish. We had lost all our fishing-anchors,
and as the snow was beginning to make its appearance in
the squaUs, it was decided by Skipper Nickerson to bend
" Big Ben " (the large mainsaU) and head for home.

120 OCEAN LIFE
With strong northeast winds the " Ceres " scudded before
the gale for two days, then light pleasant weather, with
variable winds, succeeded. We spoke the American ship
" Esther Barnby," bound for New York, with passengers
for Liverpool, supplying her with fish and firewood, in
return for which the captain sent on board two cases of
assorted liquors, which were divided up among the crew
and taken home for household use.
Sighting Boston Light, we bore away for Marblehead
Harbor, which we entered early in the morning, home
again! Not stopping to wash out the fish, but emplojang a man
in my place, I left my account to be settled with the
owner in a friend's hands, and afterwards received some
$300 as my share.
Shipping as mate of the brig " L. & W. Armstrong,"
I made a voyage to Mayaguez, Porto Rico, loading salt at
Turk's Island for return cargo to New Haven, where we
arrived after an absence of fifty-eight days.
Returning to Boston, I engaged as first officer on ship
" James Guthrie," Captain Chase, bound in ballast for
Savannah. The crew were colored, with a colored boat
swain, a very good set of men, and good sailors. A week
from port the " Guthrie " encountered a very heavy gale.
The steamer " San Francisco " was lost in this gale, and
her passengers were rescued by the British ship " Three
BeUs," Captain Creighton. For ten hours we scud
before it, under a close-reefed fore topsail, with the sheets
eased off a fathom or so, and two men at the wheel with
an officer conning them to see that they did not allow her
to broach to, in which case, being so high out of water,
she would undoubtedly have been on her beam-ends in
a moment. There was not a high sea, the wind being so strong as

FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 121
to prevent its rising. It was covered with foam, snow
white. We passed through the gale without the loss of
a rope-yarn and made the land, coming to anchor in the
Savannah River off Tybee Island. Captain Chase went
up to the city on the tug, and returning the following
day, we got under way and proceeded to Mobile Bay,
rounding Abaco (Hole in the Wall), one of the Bahama
group. We crossed the Great Bahama banks, as the ship, being
in ballast, was of light draught. The moon was nearly at
its full, and the white sand, only about twelve or fourteen
feet below the surface, reflected in the bright moonlight,
made the ship appear to be sailing through a sea of milk.
The effect was beautiful.
Passing Havana, we continued along the Cuban shore
until, having rounded the Dry Tortugas, a few days more
took us to the bar of Mobile Bay, which we crossed and
came to anchor off Grant's Pass, when the tug coming
alongside. Captain Chase took his departure for town.
He returned the second day and informed me that the
ship was chartered to load square timber for Ferrol,
Spain. Five weeks passed ere our timber lading was completed.
It was rafted alongside, and taken in at the bow ports,
the work being done by a stevedore and his gang. The
weather was extremely cold for a southern climate, ice
forming nights as thick as window-glass, and sometimes
a half-inch in thickness. Once a week, taking a boat's
crew, and pulling into Grant's Pass, we would load the
boat with the largest and most delicious oysters ever
tasted; these we took on board, fiUing barrels with them,
and aU hands were allowed to help themselves untU they
were gone, when another trip would be made to load up.
Captain Chase and family remained in Mobile, during

122 OCEAN LIFE
the ship's stay in port, the captain coming down on the
tug weekly, and returning at once to town.
Our second mate having been discharged while in the
bay, I had been deputed to go to New Orleans and select
a man to fill his position. I fortunately succeeded in find
ing a most capital officer and brought him over with me.
We were now in readiness for sea. Stores were taken
on board, the captain and his family came down on the
tug, we weighed anchor, and in tow we again crossed
the bar, outward bound. With a fine northerly wind we
ran down the gulf, and on the third day after leaving
port, whUe engaged in changing the fore to'gallant mast,
the bos'n and two men being aloft, the cry of " Land,
ho ! " was called, and looking ahead, we could see the
high part of the Dry Tortugas above the horizon.
Glancing aft, I saw Captain Chase with a spy-glass
looking at it, and gave it no more thought, being busy
with the work, until suddenly the ship struck, bringing
up on a sand-bar with a force that drove her well on,
where she lay, heeled over, hard and fast.
Sail was kept on for an hour, but with the appearance
of a wrecking schooner beating up to us, Captain Chase
gave the order to clew up and furl everything. On the
arrival of the wrecker, the captain refused assistance,
but next day made an arrangement to take Captain Chase
to Key West, while I commenced discharging the timber,
rafting it alongside, after which anchors were carried out,
but all efforts to move her failed.
After sticking on the bank a week, a towboat came up
from Key West, and with the assistance of the wreckers,
taking advantage of a very full tide, she finaUy succeeded
in puUing the " Guthrie " off the bank, and took her
in tow for Key West, where we safely arrived and pro
ceeded to discharge cargo and hold a survey.

FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS 123
I knew the delay was going to be a long one, and I
did not relish a stay of months at Key West, so I apphed
for my discharge, the crew having received theirs, and
it was granted by Captain Chase, the second mate taking
my place, and I took passage on the barque " Wheeler "
for Boston, as passenger.

CHAPTER XIII
1854 - 1855
CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT.  CEYLON.  MAURITIUS. 
ST. HELENA. — NEW ORLEANS
Arriving safely in Boston, after spending a week on
shore I joined the " Elizabeth Kimball," a fine large ship
of between eleven and twelve hundred tons, half clipper,
as first officer. Captain Freeman commander, for a voyage
to Calcutta and return. Loading ice at Tudor's Wharf,
Charlestown, the stores were taken on board, and the
crew brought over from Boston, the ship leaving the
wharf in tow of a tugboat. We had one passenger, Mrs.
Ladd, who was going out to join her husband, who was a
merchant and in charge of the ice-houses at Calcutta.
At this time the ice business with the far East was a
great trade. Ice was carried out at a low rate of freight,
preferably to the ship's going in ballast, and bringing
high prices when retailed from the ice-houses, it became
a complete monopoly and paid big profits. We had a
pleasant voyage out to the equator in the Indian Ocean,
crossing which, and passing Ceylon, we entered the Bay
of Bengal.
The southwest monsoon prevailing, we encountered high
winds, with heavy squalls, thunder and lightning with
rain in torrents, thick gloomy weather. We sailed along
the west shore, passed Madras, and made the land on
124

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 125
the coast of Ganjam, where are located the three Jugger
naut pagodas, the central one containing the great car
of Juggernaut upon which is seated the god himself.
This temple is two hundred feet in height. The three
are a fine landmark for ships making for the pilot brig
lying at anchor on the taU of the sand-heads at the mouth
of the Hoogly River, upon the banks of which stands
the city of Calcutta, the capital of India. The pagodas
of Ganjam are the Mecca for pilgrims from all parts of
India, who make annual pilgrimages to see and worship
their god Juggernaut.
In former times, in the presence of tens of thousands,
the great car, to which were attached huge coir cables,
was drawn forth. The platform on which the image
rests is thirty-four feet square, and the sixteen wheels
are six and a half feet in diameter. The upper part is
decorated with broadcloth in red and yellow stripes.
The strong box near the idol is the depositary for his
gold hands and feet, which, together with his shawls
and jewels, are locked up in it at night.
The ropes were seized by the assembled throng, and —
the land about the pagodas being perfectly level —
the immense image was drawn over the plains, with the
great multitude shouting and singing, and beseeching
their god to grant them his favor. Every little whUe
some devotee would cast himself before the wheels,
which would pass over and crush him, when hun
dreds of the worshippers would rush forward to dip
a handkerchief, or some other article, in the blood of
the victim, while a mighty shout would go up from the
throng, at this act of devotion. The British government
has long since stopped these self-sacrifices, and India,
to-day, through a wise government, and the efforts of
the missionary societies, has greatly altered.

126 OCEAN LIFE
Leaving Ganjam, we made out the pUot brig the fol
lowing night, and taking a pUot on board, passed Saugor
Island, and entered the Hoogly River, coming to anchor
off Kedgeree, the pilot station. A fine lighthouse stands
on Saugor Island, surrounded by an iron fence as a
protection against the tigers with which the island is
infested. The Hoogly is a dangerous river, having a
very swift current, with obstructions in parts of it, which
might prove fatal to a ship if she took the ground. The
pilots are a most skilful class of men in the management
of a ship, having to serve a long apprenticeship as leads
man, second mate pUot, mate pUot, and finaUy master
pilot, their term of service to master pilot covering some
twenty years, during which time it is necessary to make
two voyages to England, to become perfectly conversant
with the workings of a ship. What they did not know
about the working of a ship in a tideway, or swift current,
was not worth knowing. From the moment they stepped
on board, foUowed by their leadsmen and servants,
their orders were law.
Leaving Kedgeree, the ship proceeded up the river,
at times doing tide work, and passing Diamond Harbor,
and the James and Mary Shoals, safely, we arrived off
Garden Reach, lined with elegant residences, among them
the palace of the King of Oudh, passing which we came
to anchor off Calcutta.
Along the water front of the city are great mooring
buoys, where the ships lie in tiers of twos or threes. The
landings opposite these tiers, running up the bank from
the river's edge, are called " ghauts." Going into moorings
in the inner tier to discharge our ice, a bridge of boats
was made, with a plank walk about four feet wide, from
the bank to the ship, the ice blocks being hoisted from
the hold and lowered over the ship's side upon the heads

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 127
of three coolies stationed to receive them. It was very
hot, and the moment the cold ice water began to trickle
down their black backs, they would shiver, and strike
a bee line for the ice-house, never stopping untU their
load was off their heads. During the discharging our
ship was a popular resort for all the officers of the sur
rounding ships, and iced drinks were concocted in every
shape. Barrels of apples that were buried in the sawdust
in the hold were found when opened at the ice-house to
be in good condition, the apples readily bringing from
fifty to seventy-five cents each.
WhUe the ice lasted, we had no end of visitors.
Captain Freeman lived on shore while the ship lay in
port, and drove down daily in his buggy, coming on
board for an hour or so.
Calcutta, the capital of British India, is the chief
commercial centre of Asia, and contains many institu
tions of learning. The spirit of caste is strong, and the
contrast between the wealthy class and the masses, who
suffer the most abject poverty, is very sharply drawn
and painfully evident.
Here is situated the residence of the English viceroy,
a building of great magnificence, built on four sides of
a beautiful garden. The Maidan, an esplanade extending
a few miles along the river, forms a fashionable promenade,
and parade ground for the military. One of its finest
streets, otherwise unexceptionable, but without . shade
trees, is called " Clive " after a British nobleman who
was prominent in the acquisition of the territory of India,
and the subjugation of her people to the British Crown.
In the heated term most of the English residents leave
the city, in which the mercury sometimes rises to 120°
in the shade, and breathe the cooler atmosphere of the
Himalayas, the nearest range being about 1,200 mUes

128 OCEAN LIFE
from Calcutta. Those who are compeUed to remain in
the city, seek after sunset the cool breezes of the esplanade.
The natives moved about freely in the extreme heat,
being clothed entirely in white as a protection from the
sun's fierce rays, their heads protected by immense white
turbans. Although the presence of European characteris
tics might be noted in almost every prominent street,
Hindooism forced itself upon the attention against the
strong background of English prejudice and customs,
and bodies were cremated at the burning ghauts, while
the ashes and partly burned remains were thrown into
the river as of old. It was a common thing in the morning
to clear away four or five corpses from the ship's gangway.
With the exception of a ride along the strand on
Sunday afternoons, there was very little shore visiting,
it was so hot and sultry. The atmosphere, charged with
moisture, made it anything but pleasant to go around
sightseeing, and the officers found it much more to their
taste remaining on board, or visiting from ship to ship
among themselves. These gatherings in the evenings on
board some of their respective ships were jolly affairs,
and highly enjoyed by all.
Having taken on a cargo of jute, saltpetre, and other
products of India, in due course our lading was com
pleted, and the ship unmoored, and hauled into the
stream in charge of the harbor pilot. Dropping down to
Garden Reach below the city, we came to anchor, awaiting
the coming on board of the captain and river pilot, who
made their appearance on the following morning, when
the anchor was weighed and the ship proceeded down
the river.
Five days later, we passed Saugor, discharging our
pilot at the pilot brig, and the ship commenced her beat
down the Bay of Bengal, against a strong southwest

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 129
monsoon. Very bad weather prevailed, with high winds
and fierce squalls, copious rains accompanied by vivid
lightning and heavy thunder, compelling the carrying
of short canvas, double and close reefs a part of the time,
whUe the heavy seas made progress slow, and three
weeks elapsed ere we were up with Ceylon. Gradually
the weather grew better after getting south of the Anda
man Islands.
One night, when off the southern end of Ceylon, we were
sailing with a smooth sea and an eight-knot breeze, the
moon being near its full, and about four beUs in the mid-
watch, while sitting on the weather side watching the
ship's progress, and admiring the beauty of the night,
the ship suddenly seemed to stop, the saUs that had been
rounded out asleep flapped violently, back and forth,
and there was a rumbling sound that seemed to proceed
from the hold, with a trembhng throughout, as though
the keel was dragging across a reef. For a moment I was
startled, thinking we had struck a shoal, but an instant's
reflection convinced me there were no shoals in that
vicinity, and it flashed upon my mind that we had
experienced a submarine earthquake, and a severe shock
at that.
Captain Freeman rushed on deck, as well as the watch,
but finding no cause for alarm, again went below.
Taking the S. E. trades fresh, the course was shaped for
the south end of Madagascar, when the ship sprung a
leak that made lively work at the pumps. The heavy
seas in the Bay of Bengal, against which the ship had
been driven, had started the wood ends about the water-
line, causing the oakum to work out, developing a leak
which grew worse daUy until it took two thousand strokes
per hour to keep her free. As the leak was known to be
just below the water-hne, alongside the stem, Captain

130 OCEAN LIFE
Freeman decided to touch at Mauritius, an island in the
Indian Ocean about five hundred miles east of Madagascar,
and without entering Port Louis, come to anchor in
smooth water just outside the port, when, by shifting
everything aft, bringing the leak out of water, it could
be got at and stopped. This was successfully accom
plished. Raising the island in the forenoon, we ran in
for the port, and dropped anchor in smooth water.
Rolling all water casks aft, bringing the stem out so
the carpenter could get to work, before night the leak was
stopped, and gave us no more trouble during the home
ward voyage. It was a good piece of work.
Mauritius was discovered by the Portuguese in 1505,
and came into possession of the British in 1814. Port
Louis, the capital, has a population of about 65,000. It
has a considerable trade, its chief export being raw sugar.
Getting under way in the early morning, we passed
Reunion, or Bourbon Isle, lying one hundred and ten
miles southwest from Mauritius, that evening. This
island has an active volcano, upwards of 10,000 feet in
height, which was in a state of eruption as we passed.
The molten lava was distinctly visible running down its
sides in rivers of flame, presenting a most beautiful
appearance, as seen from the ship.
Passing Madagascar, we soon sighted the land east of
Cape Agulhas, and taking a stiff gale, we stood to the
south'ard, and rounding the Cape of Good Hope, two
days later, the " Elizabeth Kimball " passed St. Helena
in ten days from the Cape.
This island, famous for being the prison of Napoleon I.
from 1815 to the time of his death, in 1821, lies about
1,200 miles west from the coast of Africa. It has an area
of 47 square miles, with a population of about two thou
sand, and is an important coaling station.

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 131
Fine S. E. trades prevaUing, we made . good progress
towards the equator, aU hands being busily employed in
the usual ship's work described in the foregoing chapters.
Crossing the hne, we experienced a few days of light winds
with rain squalls, then the trades, when tarring down,
painting and putting the ship in fine shape for our home
port was the order of the day.
Having passed the Bermudas and the Gulf Stream,
we struck soundings, heading for the South Channel
between Georges Banks and Cape Cod.
Favoring winds, but foggy weather, prevaUing, we were
bowling along about eight bells in the last dog-watch,
when the ship struck on the south shoal of the island of
Nantucket, with a force that startled all hands.
" Hard up! " came the order, and the " Elizabeth
Kimball " responded. She never fully stopped, but
dragging through the sand, paid off, and in a few moments
was clear from the shoal, having just scraped its outer
edge, and sustained no serious damage. The fog pre
vented our seeing anything. It was a narrow squeak,
but in this case, " a miss was as good as a mile."
Rounding Cape Cod Light the following morning, and
taking a pilot on board, passing Boston Light and the
islands of the harbor, we let go our anchor one hundred
and twenty-two days from Calcutta.
The cargo having been discharged and crew paid off,
I spent a few weeks at Marblehead, and then joined the
barque " Glen " as mate for a voyage to New Orleans.
We loaded at Rockland, Maine, with hme. Nearly four
months were occupied on this voyage, the greater part
being spent at New Orleans, where an epidemic of yellow
fever was raging. Captain Samuel Prentiss having left
the barque in Rockland, he was succeeded by Captain
Green of Portland, who was laid up in hospital at New

132 OCEAN LIFE
Orleans for over a month, with the yellow fever. The
second officer and myself were the only ones on board,
the crew having left on arrival.
Neither of us took the fever, which may have been on
account of our cargo. The lime having shrunk the
barrels so that they hterally fell to pieces, the best part
of the cargo had to be shovelled out. The lime was all
over everything, and in every corner and crevice of the
ship. Owing to the scarcity of men, it was a long time
before it could be discharged. The death rate, whUe we
were lying in the port, was from five hundred to seven
hundred daily, but by the latter part of September it
began to abate.
Loading molasses for Boston, on October 12th, we took
our departure from the city in tow, and reaching the bar
the next morning, I never sniffed anything so delicious
as the cool, salt breezes that came from the gulf, laden
with a saline fragrance that we inhaled in long draughts,
grateful enough to our senses, after having been penned
up in New Orleans nearly all summer with an epidemic
of yellow fever raging. We came to anchor for twenty-
four hours to see if any new cases developed, and finding
none, we got under way, and proceeded on our voyage.
Entering the bay, and making Boston Light, when
within two or three miles we hove to for a pilot.
The weather was cold and raw, with indications of
snow, and shortly after midnight it began to fall and the
wind to rise, when, seeing no chance of a pUot and the
light beginning to shut in with the snow. Captain Green,
after a consultation with me, concluded to run in without
a pUot. Keeping her off, we passed the light and kept
a sharp lookout for the buoy on the tail of the Centurion
Shoal, when picking it up, the barque was rounded to
under the lee of George's Island, coming to anchor in the

CALCUTTA. — JUGGERNAUT 133
roads. By dayhght it was raining and blowing hard,
but procuring a towboat, we picked up our anchor,
and inside of two hours made fast alongside of Battery
Wharf.

CHAPTER xrv
1856 - 1857
CAPTAIN meacom's IDEAS.  OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH.
 SOCIAL LIFE IN CALCUTTA.  ANIMAL LIFE ON SHIP
BOARDAbout ten days after my return, I met Captain Edward
Meacom of Beverly, then commanding the ship " Brutus,"
and I engaged with him as first officer, for a voyage to
Calcutta and return, reporting for duty on the ship, which
lay at Charlestown, loading ice at Tudor's Wharf. The
" Brutus " was a fine ship of about a thousand tons
burthen; a regular Calcutta trader. This would be
Captain Meacom's seventeenth consecutive voyage to
that port. It proved to be one of the most pleasant and
agreeable voyages I ever made as chief officer.
Captain Meacom was the most genial and gentlemanly
of shipmasters.
A sailor, every inch of him, a good disciplinarian,
never profane or overbearing, treating officers and men
in a manner that endeared them to him, yet exacting
perfect obedience to orders, and permitting no undue
famiUarity. Our ice lading completed, and stores taken in, the
crew came on board. It comprised fourteen able seamen,
two ordinary, and four boys, the latter from Beverly
and all known to Captain Meacom, who took a great
interest in them. The officers, besides myself, were Mr.-
134

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 135
Edmund Kimball, second, with Mr. Frank Rogers, a
nephew of Captain Meacom, as third mate. A carpenter,
cook and steward completed our ship's complement.
Sailing with brisk westerly winds, rounding Cape Cod,
and passing out of the South Channel, we entered the
Gulf Stream, where the nose of the " Brutus " was pointed
to the eastward, and, favored by fresh, westerly gales,
the old ship made good time towards the region of the
N. E. trades.
Getting into good steady weather, one evening in the
dog-watch Captain Meacom and I had a long talk, and
he gave me his ideas relative not only to. the work on
shipboard, but the course to be pursued with the boys
and crew, to make everything pleasant on a long voyage,
saying that much depended on the officers. He would
give the men all privileges consistent with good discipline,
but a firm, steady course of the same to be adhered to,
and no abuse of men, no cursing or profanity allowed
or practised by officers. An order given must be obeyed
at once, and while kind to the crew, the officers should
permit no famiUarity. They should have good food and
plenty of it, with plenty of work and no idle moments
for the men when on duty.
Saturday afternoon was to be given Jack to get the
fo'c'sle washed out, and do his own washing and mending,
so there could be no excuse for doing this work on the
Sabbath. Sunday was to be a day of rest, no work
permitted except making, taking in, and trimming of
saUs, whUe Sunday morning, weather permitting, divine
service was to be held on the quarter-deck, which all
hands, dressed neatly, would be required to attend.
The booby hatch, covered with the American ensign,
on which was to be placed the Bible and prayer-book,
would be the reading-desk.

136 OCEAN LIFE
AU this was something new in my seagoing experience,
I never having served on a ship where services were held
on the Sabbath. I, however, acquiesced, telling Captain
Meacom that I beheved the idea a good one. He wished,
also, to have a school for the boys to attend and study
navigation, open to any one who wished to do so. Mr.
Frank Rogers, third officer, who was a good scholar and
a fine mathematician, was to have charge and coach the
boys, while I superintended the arrangement generaUy.
The steerage under the booby hatch having been cleared,
a room with bunks around it was fitted up by " Chips "
(the carpenter) as quarters for the boys, ordinaries and
carpenter; Captain Meacom deeming it better for them,
as weU as for the purposes of study, that they should live
separate from the crew, but in no sense as an afterguard.
Taking the trades, the weather was superb, fljang-fish
in shoals, while dolphin, bonita and albecore were
caught almost daily, affording a table supply of fresh
fish, fore and aft. The first Sabbath for Sunday service
arrived, causing a ripple of excitement throughout the
ship. I had notified the crew Saturday afternoon that
services would be held on the quarter-deck the following
morning from ten to eleven o'clock, and every man was
requested, unless sick, to be present, neatly dressed.
Every officer would attend, and they would expect to see
every man present.
Sunday was a beautiful day, trades steady, not over
strong, light, fleecy clouds around the horizon, and a
quiet Sabbath hush pervading the ship.
At 9.30, chairs for Captain Meacom and officers were
brought from the cabin by the steward and placed about
the booby hatch, and on the stroke of four bells (10 A. M.),
the order was passed by Mr. KimbaU, " All hands aft
to attend service! "

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 137
The men responded by fihng aft, seating themselves
on the spare spars lashed along the waterways. All
were clean, and neatly dressed, presenting a good appear
ance, an expectant look on most of their faces, showing
this was an entirely new departure in their logs, but with
all a most respectful demeanor.
Captain Meacom, when all were seated, made a good,
fatherly address, pointing out to the men how much time
was wasted in a sailor's life, that could be put to a good
use; the desecration of the Sabbath, both ashore and
afloat; that the day was appointed by God as a day of
rest, and for the worship of the Heavenly Father; that
when they spent the day seeking their own pleasure and
gratification rather than in a manner suitable to His holy
will, they were robbing no less a personage than the
Almighty Himself. If they would only take this to heart
and impress it upon themselves, there would be no danger
of their trifling away the hours that God had set apart
for His own glory, and His creatures' good.
He dwelt upon the brevity in general of a saUor's
life, and the importance of being at all times prepared
for the great change, and said he would read some selected
passages of Scripture and prayers from the ritual for
" services at sea," ending with a hymn, after which good
books from the ship's library would be distributed among
them, to be exchanged each Sunday, or as soon as read.
The men hstened respectfully throughout the services,
and at six beUs (11 A. M.) aU hands were dismissed,
seeming to have enjoyed the meeting very much.
These Sunday gatherings were observed weekly, until
the weather rendered it inconvenient to hold them, and
the library was always open for books.
In the meantime the school of navigation prospered.
The boys could "fudge" (get through) a day's work,

138 OCEAN LIFE
whUe aU were required to keep a log, or journal, which
was open to inspection by Mr. Rogers, and looked over
by myself as often as once a week, all errors corrected
and suggestions made.
Entering the doldrums (the space between the north
east and southeast trades at the equator), light airs from
all quarters were experienced, with calms and rain squalls,
accompanied by thunder and lightning.
Waterspouts were frequent, no less than eight being
sighted one afternoon; one of them quite near the ship.
Waterspouts, being miniature tornadoes on the water, are
ugly things to come in contact with, a wreckage of spars,
at least, is a pretty sure result of one crossing a ship.
After a week's delay, taking the S. E. trades fresh,
the " Brutus " made good time south.
Each night new stars and constellations appeared in
the heavens, while the " Southern Cross " and " MageUan
clouds " shone resplendent in the dark blue sky.
From early boyhood astronomy possessed a fascination
for me. I would pass hours at night studying the heavenly
bodies with the greatest dehght, and in later years, at
sea, to me it was the greatest mystery how any one who
had had the privilege of looking upon the nightly glories
of the firmament, in the northern and southern hemi
spheres, could ever doubt the existence of a divine being,
an all-wise ruler of the universe.
It was a pleasure to talk over with the boys the names
of constellations, with the magnitudes of different stars
and planets, and impart what little knowledge I possessed
of astronomy, but the approach to the Cape of Good
Hope, and the advent of strong gales with rough weather,
put an end to our star-gazing for the time being.
Crossing the meridian of the Cape, the " Brutus "
drove on before fine westerly gales, accompanied by snow

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 139
and hail squalls, covering between two hundred and three
hundred miles daily.
Passing the rocky islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam,
which are of volcanic origin, we bore away north for the
S. E. trades and the equator. The youngsters by this
time had made good use of their hours below, and could
take a meridian observation and find their latitude at
noon, take a morning or afternoon sight, finding their
longitude by chronometer time, and keep the run of the
ship almost as well as the officers. Their journals were well
kept, much to Captain Meacom's satisfaction, who often
remarked, " The time given to these boys, Mr. Whidden,
will be repaid in the knowledge that they wUl be fitted
for their profession. These boys in time will become
officers and rise to the command of our ships, and in case
of trouble with foreign nations, our ships will become
the nurseries of seamen for our navy, and if every ship
master would take three or four boys each voyage, good
boys of good families, give them time to study, and devote
attention to their training, in a few years a change for
the better would appear, a great improvement in our
merchant marine would result, and in time of war our
country would be the gainer."
These words of Captain Meacom, in 1856, seemed pro
phetic in view of the breaking out of the war, in 1861,
when the United States Navy was largely recruited from
the merchant marine.
We passed up the Bay of Bengal on the last end of
the southwest monsoon, and experienced light winds
and generally pleasant weather. We made the pilot
brig, and taking a pilot on board, an old acquaintance
of Captain Meacom, entered the Hoogly, proceeding up
the river. A Hindoo religious festival was being held
at Saugor Island, and the river was covered with boats

140 OCEAN LIFE
decorated with flowers containing gaUy dressed natives,
male and female, aU bound for the island to take part
in the rites. These consisted, in part, of offering their
female children to the immense crocodiles that swarmed
in the waters of the Hoogly and especially around
Saugor at this time. The cries and shrieks of the victims
were drowned in the music and shouting of the multitude.
This custom of sacrificing female children has since been
done away with by the government.
Arrived at Calcutta, he " Brutus " went into moorings,
and made ready to discharge her cargo of ice, and the
northeast monsoon setting in, the cool season was inaugu
rated, making life more endurable than on my former
visit. Calcutta in the northeast monsoon is a very different
place from what it is when the southwest monsoon pre
vails. It was now cool, delightful weather, and we
indulged in more shore excursions than on my former
trip. On a visit to the botanical gardens lying on the
opposite bank and down the river a few miles, we saw,
among other objects of interest, the great banyan tree,
described by Milton, as,
" Branching so broad and long, that in the ground
The bending twigs take root: and daughters grow
About the mother tree; a pillared shade,
High overarched, with echoing walls between."
An army of ten thousand could repose beneath its
branches. Although called a single tree, in reality it is a great
many. As the branches shoot out from the parent stem
or trunk, offshoots from them descend into the earth
and take root; these in turn grow and send out more
shoots, which descend and take root, until from a single

OFF THE GHADTS AT CALCUTTA, INDIA. SHIPPING LYING AT MOORINGS

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 141
trunk an immense space is covered, and the banyan tree
becomes the home of millions of birds of every description,
with colonies of monkeys, while beneath its grateful
shade the native finds protection from the scorching rays
of the midday sun.
During the discharging of our ice cargo, as in the
" Elizabeth KimbaU," we had lots of visitors, and iced
lemonade and other concoctions were much in evidence
whUe the ice lasted. The reunions aboard each other's
ships in the evenings were scenes of hilarity and good-
fellowship. The ship on which a gathering was to be held
on any particiUar occasion was always in readiness to
receive, the officer taking a pride in having everything
in good shape, generally a nice spread, with all incidentals
conductive to a jolly time, but everything within the
bounds of decorum and good order. Well I remember
our visits to the good old ship " Walpole," Captain Wood
bury of Beverly, whose specialty was baked beans, and
his first officer always had several pots ready baked to
set before us. They were cooked in old New England
style, that could not be obtained outside its hmits except
by a cook who had served his apprenticeship in Beverly
or Marblehead, and the cook of the " Walpole " was a
native of the former town. With what gusto we cleared
the table; after which Mr. Lovering might have made
use of the exclamation attributed to old Mrs. Humphrey
of Marblehead. Mrs. Humphrey kept a boarding-house
in the old town, and when one of her boarders asked for
more beans, while several others waited expectantly,
she ladled out the last spoonful in the dish, and beaming
around the table, exclaimed, "There! I calculated on
just enough to a bean! "
The buggy rides along the strand (river front), on a
Sunday afternoon, were charming. The road leading

142 OCEAN LIFE
along the river's bank gave a fine opportunity of viewing
all the shipping in port, each ship decked out with its
national colors and numeral flags, making a fine show.
One was constantly passing the most elegant equipages
of the wealthy English residents. Fine carriages con
taining army and navy officers in their rich uniforms
rolled smoothly along over the finest of roads, while
wealthy natives and baboos (merchants), in gorgeous
costumes, mingled with the throng, each carriage having
its native coachman and footman clad in immaculate
white with great snowy turbans, while the native syce,
or groom, that accompanied each equipage, carriage or
humble buggy, ran ahead of the vehicle, waving his arms
and shouting in Hindostanee:
" Clear the way, clear the way! make room for the
Sahib! "
After the afternoon drive the Enghsh residents take
their bath and prepare for dinner, the meal of the day.
In fashionable society these are generally " swell "
affairs. Both officers and boys on the " Brutus " had ample
opportunity of shore visiting while in port, and the crew
had their shore leave each Sunday in alternate watches,
being well supplied with hberty money. During our
stay in port I never saw any drinking, or a crew less
inclined to dissipation on shore.
We loaded with the usual Calcutta cargo, jute butts,
etc., and were again ready for sea. Captain Meacom,
who always hked fresh mUk night and morning in his
tea and coffee, brought from home a milch goat, and
another was procured for the return voyage, in addition
to which was a large stock of pigs, goats, geese, ducks,
chickens, and a big flock of pigeons, fantaUs and other
kinds. Captain Meacom believed in having plenty of

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 143
live stock on board, and when it could be obtained as
cheaply as in Calcutta, always laid in a big supply. The
decks were literally packed with coops and pig-pens.
In addition to stock, the boys and crew had great
numbers of pets, — comprising cockatoos, parrots, minas
and Java sparrows, besides a few monkeys of various
sizes. Sailing down the river with a fair wind, we passed the
James and Mary Shoals, Diamond Harbor, Kedgeree,
and Saugor Island, discharged the pilot at the pUot
station, and with fine weather and a fair wind proceeded
down the bay.
What a change from our passage down in the " Eliza
beth KimbaU," when gales, torrential rains, thunder
and lightning prevailed, with tremendous seas into which
the ship drove, straining in every timber day after day.
Now, fine, beautiful weather with clear skies, sea as
smooth, almost, as a pond, and great water snakes
swimming about in all directions, with occasionally a big
turtle asleep on the water.
We passed Ceylon with its spicy breezes, and crossed
the equator in ten days from the pilot brig; taking the
trades not over strong, our course was shaped for the
Cape of Good Hope. Nothing of note occurred until
nearly up with Cape Agulhas.
On our passage down the Bay of Bengal, Captain
Meacom conceived the idea of building a model house for
the stock that would do away with the great number of
coops scattered about the deck, and confine all in one
space, yet have them separate from each other.
Utihzing the capstan on the main deck, the carpenter
inserted joists into the handspike-holes. These joists
extended nearly to each side, leaving a good passageway
between, and coming, also, within two feet or so of the

144 OCEAN LIFE
fife-rail around the mainmast, and within four feet of
the cabin entrance; in short, the house took up pretty
much all the main deck abaft the mainmast. On each
side were very large coops that drew out and pushed in,
like a chest of drawers. On one side were kept the geese,
the other ducks, and the other two chickens and fowls.
In the centre were the goats, while the whole upper part
was devoted to pigeons, who roosted on the joists, and
flew around the ship, passing back and forth through the
holes made for them, always returning at night to their
coop. By the time we were up with the Cape, the cook
had made large inroads upon them, but there stiU remained
a goodly number, besides the pigs that were kept in the
large sties forward by themselves.
Just east of Cape Agulhas, the " Brutus " took a sharp,
short gale, with very high sea. Under a close-reefed main
topsail and foretopmast staysail, she had been standing
to the south'ard, when the order was given to " wear
ship." With the wheel aweather, she came gracefully
round on the port tack, heading to the north'ard. This
brought the sea well on our port bow.
Half an hour passed, when glancing up from something
I was about at the time, I saw towering high above the
bulwarks a great curling wave just ready to break. With
a yell to the men to look out for themselves, I seized a
piece of running gear, passing several turns around my
body, and a spare spar. The next instant the crash
came. Driving with the force and fury of an avalanche,
the wave swept over us, starting the forward house, ffiling
the decks with water, and knocking the model stock house
into smithereens, while the live stock were in a moment
swimming and floating around the deck.
Finding no one was injured or swept overboard, all
hands were ordered to save the stock and throw them

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 145
into the cabin doorway, so wading into the water and
grabbing what they could lay lay their hands on, the
crew threw geese, chickens, ducks and pigeons into the
cabin companionway, whUe large numbers were lost.
Between the forward part of the after house and main
cabin was a wide passageway, with my stateroom on
one side and the second mate's on the other, mine unfor
tunately being to leeward.
Knocking out two side ports, the ship quickly freed
herself from water.
I had taken with me on that voyage a dog, named
" Dash." In bad weather he usually took up his quarters
in my stateroom, the door to which was a sliding one.
Before the catastrophe this door had accidentaUy been
left open, and afterwards had been closed by some one,
and on opening it when I went below, after all was in
order again, to change my wet clothes, a comical sight
met my eyes.
My pillow was occupied by a big goat, who glared
defiance at the dog, who stood at the foot of the berth,
and a pig reclined in the centre, while all around were
chickens, geese, and pigeons wringing wet, and everything
in the room, bedding and bedclothes. Were soaking. There
was about six inches of water washing about the deck.
Calling several of the men, I had the stock cleared out
and everything righted. This was the only unlucky sea
we shipped for the voyage.
Shortly after the gale moderated sail was made, and,
the wind favoring, we slid by Agulhas, with the land well
aboard, to catch the strong westerly current that prevaUs
close alongshore.
Having passed the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Town,
the south Atlantic seemed hke again entering home waters.
Fresh breezes soon brought us up to St. Helena, and

146 OCEAN LIFE
from now on the youngsters got a good insight into
ship's work, besides being put through a course of instruc
tion in lunars. Captain Meacom daily taking a series of
distances, and havihg the boys work them out for the
longitude under the guidance of Mr. Rogers. Before
they reached the equator, they had attained great pro
ficiency in taking and working out lunar observations.
The ship, in common with all Calcutta traders, was
infested with cockroaches of enormous size, some of them
being two and even three inches, in length.
Although only cockroaches, they were most destructive.
Just before rain they would swarm out of the after hatch
in clouds, the helmsman being obliged to keep his hat or
cap waving to keep them clear from his face, while the
decks at night would be almost covered with them, and
in stepping on them an explosion would follow with a
report similar to the crack of a small pistol. When
painting ship they would eat the paint from the plank-
sheer and waterways at night, about as fast as it could
be put on, seeming to thrive and grow fat on a diet of
white lead and " Paris green." Holes were eaten through
the plank-sheer, and, on discharging our cargo in New
York, we found they had eaten holes in the solid oak bitts
between decks into which one could almost insert one's
fist. Beyond biting at sleeping Jack's hair and finger
nails, which latter they would often gnaw to the quick,
they did not trouble us with their carnivorous propen
sities, but the odor from them was most offensive. Noth
ing but drowning them out by sinking the ship seems to
have any effect in kiUing them, and that is not always
convenient. In the " Elizabeth KimbaU " we had a
few, but nothing as compared with the " Brutus," that
had been for many years in the East India trade.
Carrying the trades across the equator and experiencing

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 147
neither calms nor light airs, the wind gradually drawing
around to E. N. E. and freshening, sliding into the N. E.
trades without an effort, we now came to the last quarter
on the home stretch. AU hands, fore and aft, were
feehng in good spirits, and all, especiaUy the youngsters,
eagerly looking forward to a safe and speedy arrival at
New York and old Beverly, where the joyous " welcome
home " awaited them. I would frequently hear the
boys in the dog-watches rehearsing their plans of what
they would do after they should arrive; wondering
whether this or that girl had been staunch and true,
and if so-and-so were married? A day of particularly
fresh trades always elicited the remark, " Ah! the Beverly
girls have got hold of the tow-line sure."
The fields of floating gulfweed had a home look, while
every vessel sighted was a subject of speculation as to
where she was from, how long out, and where bound.
We would often signal, if convenient, by Maryatt's code,
and all these questions would be answered, with many
others. Passing the Bermudas and Cape Hatteras, we crossed
the Gulf Stream with a rattling breeze, heaving to at
midnight for soundings which showed ninety fathoms.
We took a pilot on board off Barnegat Light, and he
received a most royal welcome. He brought the papers
with him, giving us all the news, and they were passed
around to all hands.
Sandy Hook passed, we hove to at quarantine for the
doctor, but his visit was short. He made an examination
of all hands, and finding every one in good condition,
and being shown a clean bill of health from Calcutta,
which was an open sesame, he passed us to the city of
New York, off which we dropped anchor opposite the
Battery until it was known where we were to dock.

148 OCEAN LIFE
My second voyage to Calcutta was ended.
Runners from the sailors' boarding-houses now came
on board to make arrangements with the crew to stop
at one or the other of their houses, but not a man was
aUowed to be taken out of the ship untU she was fast at
the dock. I also gave the men a httle advice against
drinking with them, almost every runner having a bottle
of spirits, and I was pleased to see my advice generally
followed. When the ship was taken by tugboat to dock
the following day and tied up to the pier, every man, when
he left the ship with the runners, was sober, the only ones
at aU intoxicated being the runners themselves.
The youngsters, with ordinaries, got their meals at a
restaurant but a short distance from the ship, until all
hands were paid off, two days later, when they took
their departure for their homes.
Remaining on board untU the cargo was discharged,
I took my meals on shore, and slept on the ship.
It was a queer sight at the dock when the bales of jute
were hoisted out of the ship's hold. Each one was black
with the most enormous roaches, and the instant the bale
touched the dock they would scamper in aU directions.
The ship was lying at the foot of WaU Street, and people
who had met swarms of them travelling up the street,
evidently bound up " on change," came on board to
inquire what species of bird they were, never having seen
their like before.
The cargo being all right, I was paid off, and taking
passage for Boston on the Fall River line of steamers,
arrived safely and took up my residence there for the
time being.
This practically ended my services as first officer. I
was now on the lookout for a command, which was hard
to obtain without influence or money to buy into a ship.

CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS 149
Becoming an owner of a smaU portion, an eighth, six
teenth, or even a thirty-second ownership in a craft, may
insure a captaincy, but this I did not have, and so had
to depend upon my record as first officer.

CHAPTER XV
1857 - 1858
CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE."  HURRICANE OFP RIO
DE LA PLATA.  BUENOS AYRES IN WINTER.  DIN
NERS, LUNCHES, HORSEBACK RIDING.  BARQUE ON FIRE
A MONTH passed, and though I kept watch of all ships
arriving, making inquiries if there would be a vacancy,
and applying if there was one, I was either too late, or
found that almost every ship-owner had some one he
knew who wanted a position, and for every vacancy
there seemed to be ten applications; but, never relaxing
my efforts, I called one day at the office of an old-time
ship-owner whom I knew, Mr. Daniel Deshon, who was
located on Doane Street. Finding him alone, and at
leisure, I asked him frankly if he had or would be likely
to have a vessel for which he would want a captain, and
if he should have, would he give the command to me,
knowing me as he did; and I referred to Captain Meacom
and others, as to competency, etc.
He replied that it was not necessary to give references,
he had known me a long time, and did not question my
abUity, ending by telling me that he had the barque
" Little Lizzie," about four hundred tons burthen, that
he had been trying to seU, and if not successful the coming
week, he should load her with lumber and send her out
to Buenos Ayres, and would be pleased to give me the
150

CAPTAIN OF THE "LITTLE LIZZIE" 151
command, adding that in addition to her freight out, I
might get a chance to seU her at the river (Rio de la
Plata) at a better price than could be obtained in Boston.
Going out from his office, I went home happy, the only
concern I had being the fear that some one might buy her
before she was taken off the market, but no such calamity
occurred. I was informed, in due course, that she would
load for Buenos Ayres, and I could at once take command.
This I lost no time in doing, and having shipped my
officers, I made out a list of stores needed for the voyage,
and ordered the shipping master to engage a crew, also
purchasing such instruments and charts as were neces
sary. The lading completed, the crew were ordered on board
and the pilot notified, and taking my final instructions
from Mr. Deshon, the owner, I repaired to the barque,
where I found all in readiness for sea.
Although she was a little craft, I stepped over the gang
way with as much pride as though she had been an
eighteen-hundred-ton ship, and giving orders to cast off,
sail having been made at the wharf, the " Little Lizzie "
was pointed down the harbor, passed the islands, and
through the narrows, and arriving at Boston Light, the
pilot, after wishing me a pleasant voyage, took his depar
ture. In addition to the lumber below, a deck-load had been
added which came just even with the rails, leaving a
space around the mainmast and pumps. Stanchions
were placed around the barque's sides through which
life-lines were now rove as a precaution against any one
going overboard in a blow or seaway. Passing Minot's
Light, we were soon up with the highlands of Cape Cod,
and our course shaped out of the South Channel, clear
of which, the barque was pointed to the eastward.

152 OCEAN LIFE
On tr3dng the pumps the first night it was soon apparent
that either they had been standing a long while, or the
" Little Lizzie " was sadly in need of caulking below the
water-line. It gave me no uneasiness, however, as I
felt it might take up, and loaded with lumber, there was
no danger of her sinking. If it was pump to Buenos Ayres,
why, pump it should be! It would never do to put in
with a leak on my first command.
Getting a stiff gale with a high sea, ere we had been a
week out, it was found that the barque made no more
water in rough weather than' in smooth water; that the
leak was a steady one; that with hourly spells at the
pumps she could easUy be kept free. But pumping so
frequently gave little time for much else besides making
and taking in sail, and attending to ship generaUy.
There was no grumbling, and all was pleasant on board.
Favored with good winds, we struck the N. E. trades
fresh, and bowled along, with all the canvas that could
be piled on, for the equator.
Before leaving, I had undertaken to keep a log for
Lieutenant M. F. Maury, U. S. N., superintendent of
wind and current charts for the government at Wash
ington, with notes and observations on tides, sea currents,
clouds, storms and winds, with all the phenomena of the
sea. This, with my own journal, and looking after the
ship, occupied my time pretty well, and the days passed
rapidly with no idle moments on my hands. A week in
the doldrums, with squalls of wind and rain, with light
airs, kept the watch on deck busy with the sails, when,
taking the S. E. trades, we again crossed the equator.
Sighting Fernando Norohna and Cape Frio, ten days
later saw the " Little Lizzie " off the Rio de la Plata,
where she encountered her first setback. The weather
became very bad, gale succeeded gale for seven or eight

CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 153
days, blowing us offshore a long distance, at the end of
which time the wind moderated, the weather cleared,
and the barque coming up neariy to her course for Lobos
Island, the sea gradually growing smooth, with a fine
breeze blowing, two reefs were shaken out and to'gall'nt
sails set, and the barque was soon bowling along from
eight to nine knots, making good time towards Lobos,
now distant about sixty miles.
Although the weather was warm for the season, with
bright sunshine, I did not like the looks or feeling of it.
The barometer was very low, with a falling tendency,
but aside from this there was no indication of bad weather,
or any change after nine o'clock (two bells), except a
steady fall of the glass; otherwise the night was so fine,
and being anxious to take advantage of the favorable
slant of wind, I was loth to shorten sail.
It was perfectly clear, not a cloud to be seen in the
heavens, the stars shining with a brilliancy seldom
equalled, water smooth, but each time I looked at the
barometer I would find it a little lower, and I felt that
something out of the ordinary was coming, yet it seemed
impossible not to have time to get sail off.
At four bells, feeling tired, having been up a long time,
I told Mr. Lovett, the mate, I would lie down on the
lounge in the cabin, and if there was any indication of a
change, or any increase of wind, to call me at once. Going
below, I lay down, but not to sleep, being too anxious,
as the barometer was now 28.
About six bells (11 p. m.) I heard Mr. Lovett descending
the steps.
" WeU! any change? " I inquired.
" No sir," he replied, " with the exception that the
wind is a little stronger, I think."
" All right, sir, I'U be up in a moment," I answered.

154 OCEAN LIFE
Mounting the steps, as my head came out of the com
panionway I detected a faint flash of lightning in the
southwestern quarter. I gave the order to braid up the
spanker, clew up the to'gallant sails, furling them, and
to haul up the mainsail before they laid aloft at the main.
Before the saU could be handed the wind increased rapidly.
Telling the helmsman to put his wheel up and keep her
dead before it, I also hailed the second officer to get on
deck instantly, Mr. Lovett having gone aloft to assist
the men. Running forward over the deck-load, letting
go the topsaU halliards on the way, I called to the watch
to hurry on deck, not stopping to put on many clothes.
By the time they made their appearance, the men with
the mate were down from aloft. With all saU clewed up,
and although running dead before the wind, over two
hours of the hardest kind of work elapsed before every
thing was furled, and the barque hove to on the port
tack under a mizzen staysaU made of No. 1 cotton canvas,
entirely new. By this time the wind was blowing with
hurricane force; above a cloudless sky, but everything
now snug, with the exception of the fore to'gallant sail
that blew away ere it could be furled. The sea had risen,
but the wind was too heavy to permit its rising very high.
The barque lay almost on her beam-ends, the spars lying
at such an angle the wind passed over, her masts not
offering much resistance to its full force. Lying with
her lee rail in the water, the men doing nothing, but
holding on for their lives, eight hours passed, after which
the wind began to abate in violence. From the time the
wind struck us at eleven the night before, the barometer
had risen rapidly, the lowest being 27.70, which had gone
up by daylight to nearly 29, and was stUl rising.
From this time the gale moderated very fast, and by
10 A. M. sail was again made. By night the main to'gallant

MONTEVIDEO BAY, SHOWING MOUNT, URUGUAY

MOUTH OP RIVER CHACO, AND WAREHOUSES, BUENOS AYRES
[.b'ce pntjt: 158

CAPTAIN OF THE "LITTLE LIZZIE" 155
saU was set, and a new fore one bent, and the wind
favoring us, we were soon up with Lobos Island, passing
which, we shortly sighted the Mount, coming to anchor
outside the harbor of Montevideo. A boat from shore
in the early morning came on board bringing fresh beef
and vegetables, also a river pUot who had been signalled
for, and we were soon under way for Buenos Ayres.
The Rio de la Plata, from the junction of the Parana
and Uruguay Rivers, is very wide, about thirty miles
between Buenos Ayres and Colonia, and increasing in
width as it approaches the ocean. It is a muddy, turbid
stream, having at times of freshets a strong current.
Anchorage for shipping at Buenos Ayres, unless the vessel
is of light draught, is in the outer roads, about eight or nine
miles from shore. Between the outer and inner roads
lies a wide bank of shoal water, but vessels of from eleven
to twelve feet draught can cross it to the inner roads about
a mUe from the landing mole. The water there is much
smoother than in the outer roads, the bank breaking the
sea, although in a winter southeaster, the Plata can get
up a very respectable sea even in the inner roads. In
the strong southeast gales of the winter season the waves
run high, and a ship needs good ground-tackling, but
the holding ground is good. It is sometimes a week at
a time when no work of discharging cargo can be at
tempted, it being impossible for a lighter to he alongside
a ship; even communication with the shore would be
cut off, although it must be pretty rough weather when
the shore boats that supply the ships with fresh beef
and vegetables, take the mails, and carry the captains
back and forth once a week or so, cannot go off. All the
captains live on shore, boarding at some of the many
boarding-houses. These are kept mostly by Americans
or English. Mine was presided over by Mrs. Bradley,

156 OCEAN LIFE
formerly of Portsmouth, N. H., who with her three
daughters conducted one of the best establishments in
Buenos Ayres. It was patronized almost entirely by
American shipmasters with their wives, if married and
accompanied by them.
Taking advantage of high water, the " Little Lizzie "
crossed the bank, anchoring in the inner roads among a
number of light-draught vessels like herself. This was much
more convenient, as it was but a short distance from the
landing mole, and communication with the shore could
be had daily, or at any time that it was necessary.
The water front of the city of Buenos Ayres was very
different from the present day; then all discharging was
done by lighters, but of late years docks have been
built at Ensenada, below the city, to accommodate the
shipping, or a portion of it.
The population at that time was upwards of three
hundred thousand, while to-day it numbers nearly a
million. It is the capital of the Argentine Republic,
and is the first city in size in South America. Its export
trade is very large, besides having important manufactur
ing interests.
Rosario, lying northwest of Buenos Ayres, on the
Parana River, is second only in commercial importance,
its population being today upwards of 125,000. Stock
raising is its chief industry, — cattle, sheep, horses,
etc., in vast herds. The pasturage afforded by the
central plains is practically unlimited. The production
of wool, also, is one of its greatest industries, and of this
Buenos Ayres Province is the chief seat.
Sailing up the Parana River, from Buenos Ayres to
Rosario, from the deck of the vessel can be seen immense
grassy plains, one great level as far as the eye can reach,
covered with seemingly countless numbers of horses and

CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 157
cattle, grazing. It formed a sight worth many miles of
travel to see.
The illustration shows La Boca del Rio Chaco circa de
Barracas (the mouth of the River Chaco near the ware
house) at Buenos Ayres, 1856. The old established house
of Samuel B. Hale being my consignees, as it was of almost
all of the American ships in port, I made daily visits to
the offices at the Barracas lying at the lower part of the
city. Here the captains not only met each other, but
joined the consignees and the employees of the firm in
social intercourse. Here they received their letters and
newspapers, and if any one was not so fortunate as to
receive any mail, he learned the home news from others.
There was always a nice lunch set out, of which all who
chose were invited to partake. Frequent invitations to
dine were given to a few at a time, and these dinners
were very sociable gatherings, enlivened by music and
witty conversation, all serving to make the time pass
most agreeably.
Meanwhile the work of discharging our lumber pro
ceeded. On account of the shallowness of the water along
the city front, the laden boats or lighters could not
approach within a long distance of the Custom House
mole, where all goods were landed, and everything had
to be carried on shore from the lighters in high carts,
drawn by horses. It was a queer sight to see the teams
going out nearly a half-mile from shore, coming in loaded,
and returning empty. In addition to the Custom House
mole, there was the landing mole, where all boats from the
shipping landed. It was, I should judge, about an eighth
of a mile in length, making a fine promenade, always well
filled with people in fine weather, but when there was a
heavy sea on, landing from boats was a difficult and
hazardous operation. All along the mole were davits

158 OCEAN LIFE
with boats hoisted, hanging ready for an emergency.
Along the water front on each side of the mole was buUt
a fine sea-wall, in front of which, extending a long way out
into the river, were large lumps called " toseas," highly
dangerous to a boat getting among them in a sea
way. Our cargo having been discharged, the barque was now
put into fine condition as to appearance, painted outside
and inside, spars scraped, and everything polished up
until she shone like a fiddle, and as she lay with her royal
yards across, she much resembled a yacht. It was my
intention to sell her if possible, and the consignees were
looking out sharp for a customer. In the meantime there
was very little to do but enjoy myself.
Horseback riding was the favorite amusement of the
captains, among whom was my old friend Captain WiUiam
Gregory of Marblehead, commanding the barque " Al-
bers," and almost every afternoon we took long gallops
into the country from ten to fifteen miles, sometimes
much farther when we started earlier. This was not only
most enjoyable and exhilarating sport, but very inex
pensive, horse-flesh being at a low figure. A good horse
could be bought for five or ten dollars, and a superb
animal for fifteen. Our stay in port on that voyage
covering four months, I bought a fine animal the second
month for fifteen doUars. I had him fed, and taken care
of, and used him almost daily, and on leaving gave him
away in payment for his " keep."
One of our most enjoyable excursions was in company
with six or eight genial fellows to the estancia of an old
German, who kept a sort of tavern for travellers, or
parties making him a call from the city for a good dinner,
or a bottle of fine old Hock or Moselle, of which he had
a large supply in his cool cellars. Leaving Buenos Ayres

CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 159
at about two p. m., a brisk ride, or leisurely gaUop of an
hour or so, brought us to his place, when dismounting
and having had the dust removed, we seated ourselves
at tables in a most pleasant arbor with rich clusters of
grapes hanging in luscious pendants from the vines
overhead, our leafy covering protecting us from the sun's
hot rays.
Ordering a bottle or two of cool, sparkling Moselle, we
would sit chatting for an hour, enjoying our wine and
fragrant cigars, while our horses rested. The sun mean
while would be getting lower, and as it neared the horizon's
edge abating much of its fervor that had made it oppres
sively warm at noontide.
Again mounting our steeds, a brisk gallop would soon
take us back to the city, to pass an entertaining evening
at our boarding-house with music and the companionship
of the ladies of our party.
During my stay many pleasant acquaintances were
formed, friendslups that lasted for years.
On my going to the office one day Mr. Hale informed
me that he had a prospective customer for the barque
at a price nearly double what the owner would have
taken for her in Boston, and said he would be on board
the following day to inspect her. Since her cargo had
been discharged her bends and upper works had been
caulked, previous to painting. Early the next morning
I went on board, followed shortly by Mr. Hale with
Captain Manuel, a Portuguese, who wished to buy,
to command. I showed him over the " Little Lizzie,"
after which he partook, with Mr. Hale, of a nice little
lunch in the cabin, with a few glasses of wine. Pleased
with the barque and all on board, the next day the sale
was consummated. Captain Manuel taking possession
and command as soon as papers were made out and

160 OCEAN LIFE
signed. He altered her name to " La Chiquita Paulina "
(Little Pauline), after his daughter.
The officers and crew were paid off and berths for the
former found on vessels homeward bound, wliile the crew
shipped on various craft bound for the United States
and elsewhere. A fortnight later I engaged passage on
the barque " Swallow " of Salem, Captain Stephen Upton,
bound for that port. I bade my consignees good-by,
took leave of my genial landlady and her famUy, and
with a hearty handshake from my fellow shipmasters,
embarked with Captain Upton from the mole. A run of
an hour and a half placed us alongside the " SwaUow,"
lying in the outer roads. Anchor was at once weighed,
and with a leading wind we took our departure from
Buenos Ayres, landing our pUot at Montevideo the foUovr
ing morning. Passing Lobos Island, Maldonado, and
Cape St. Mary, we were soon again on the south Atlantic,
homeward bound.
The " Swallow " was a very pretty barque of five
hundred tons, quite sharp, with good sailing qualities,
flush fore and aft, with the exception of a break in the
deck abaft the mainmast, having a foot rise from that
aft, all her cabin and forecastle accommodations being
below deck.
With fine weather and steady trades we were in the
latitude of Pernambueo, when about four bells in the
morning watch, we experienced a sharp earthquake shock.
The following afternoon, while sitting by the com
panionway aft, reading, for which there was now plenty
of leisure, Mr. Connor (Thomas Connor of Salem), the first
officer, being busy with something about the wheel,
we were both suddenly startled by the cry of " Fire,"
forward. Glancing towards the fo'c'sle scuttle, I saw the watch

CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE " 161
below rushing on deck, followed by a cloud of smoke.
In an instant I foUowed Mr. Connor, who bounded by
me and, diving into the fo'c'sle, called loudly to pass water
down. Two men were ordered to draw water, and the
others quickly passed down bucket after bucket, which
Mr. Connor received and slashed around perfectly regard
less of Jack's bedding or belongings. In a few moments
the fire was extinguished and the scare was over. Mr.
Connor then used some very emphatic language in address
ing a few remarks to the watch that had been below.
It turned out that the seams around the barque's
bows on the insides of the bunks of the fo'c'sle were the
home and abiding-place of innumerable bugs, which,
especially in warm weather, were a source of great annoy
ance to Jack. He had tried various expedients to get
rid of them, aU of which were of no avail, they were so
deep in the seams. That day a brilhant idea had struck
one of the watch, and going to the paint locker without
asking leave, he smuggled down about a quart of spirits
of turpentine, then getting a piece of oakum, he pro
ceeded to saturate the seams with the spirits. He was
anxious to see what effect it had, and it was too dark to
see plainly, so he lit a match and held it close to the seam.
The effect, if startling to the inhabitants, was much
more so to Jack. In an instant the flames ran around
the two tiers of bunks, scaring the watch so that, without
attempting to extinguish it, which they might easily have
done, they piled on deck, yeUing " Fire! "
It is, I think, safe to say they never tried that experi
ment again.
After a fine run through the northeast trades, one
pleasant morning found us in Boston Bay, between
Thatcher's Island and Half-way Rock, with light airs
fanning along, until we were but a short distance from

162 OCEAN LIFE
the entrance of Marblehead Harbor, when it fell away
calm. Putting out a dory we had on deck, I pulled to a
fishing-schooner just back of the Neck, bound to Boston
for salt, got the news, and a morning paper, returned on
board, and shortly after we were boarded by a Salem
pUot. At noon we were fast alongside Derby Wharf,
the voyage ended.
Upon seeing Mr. Deshon, the following day, he expressed
himself well pleased, adding he was sorry I had not
arrived sooner, for he had had a new barque for me. She
had saUed the week before, but as soon as he had a
command I should have it. AU of which, though very
gratifying, would not warrant my remaining idle.

CHAPTER XVI
1858 - 1859
NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER.  BALLS, OPERAS, ETC.  THE
FRENCH MARKET AT SUNRISE.  TO MARSEILLES. —
THE SHIP " J. P. WHITNEY "
I COULD see no opening for a command, and after a
short stay on shore, I engaged with Captain John Dever-
eaux of Marblehead, as first officer on the ship " Carnatic "
for a voyage to New Orleans. He stated to me, at the
time, that if he could get a stave freight for Bordeaux,
he would place me in command at New Orleans, and
take a run up around Tennessee with his wife and see
his son, whom he had not seen for a long while. This I
considered a good opportunity, and shipping Mr. Horace
Broughton, also of Marblehead, as second officer, with
Mr. John Bartol, a nephew of Captain Devereaux, as third,
we left Boston in ballast for New Orleans. Making a
quick run to the south end of Abaco, one of the Bahama
group, the " Carnatic " rounded the " Hole in the Wall "
and entered upon and crossed the Great Bahama Bank
as described in a previous chapter. There is a uniform
depth in the fairway of from fourteen to sixteen feet
of water, with a bottom of white sand as level as a floor,
whUe the ship being in ballast and of light draught,
could easily cross, thus making a great saving in distance.
The Bahama group comprises twenty inhabited, and
163

164- OCEAN LIFE
many uninhabited islands, the Great Bank being fringed
with small islands and keys. Running off the edge of
the Bank, and sighting " Dead Man's Keys " and the
Cuban shore, we speedUy entered the Gulf of Mexico,
the course being shaped for the Southwest Pass of the
Mississippi River, and on arrival off the Pass, Captain
Devereaux engaged a tugboat to tow the ship to New
Orleans. Towing from the gulf to the city is very interesting.
In the first part, after leaving the bar, the banks are low
and swampy, fringed with reeds and bushes, large portions
of which at a high stage of water are often partially sub
merged. These are the homes of the mosquito, gallinipper
and " green-head," a large fly that will bite a piece out
of an animal very quickly.
About sunset, in the summer months, when the tow
is gliding along the banks, the mosquitoes come off in
swarms, almost darkening the air, but farther along, the
land is higher and more uniform, houses and cabins come
into view, and still farther on plantations with their
blooming cotton fields, stretch far away, white as snow,
ripe for the picking by the darkies in the fields, and near,
the shining black " mammies " with their " pickaninnies "
are mustered up to see the tow pass by, shouting and
waving their colored bandannas. This was in the old
slavery days, before the emancipation of the blacks,
and a tow on the Mississippi from the bar to the " Queen
City of the South " was quite an event. On our arrival
at New Orleans the towboat placed the " Carnatic "
alongside the levee, lying outside the ship " Ocean Pearl."
During our stay the captain and Mrs. Devereaux
lived on shore, the captain coming on board daily. Not
being able to procure the freight he wished, he gave up
the idea of going to see his son, and chartering the ship

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 165
to load tobacco and staves for Marseilles, France, told me
he would like to have me continue the voyage, which
offer I accepted.
Captain Devereaux was the most genial of men, a good
shipmaster of the old school, and a most agreeable man
to saU with. Our relations at all times were very pleasant.
Mr. Hooper, our passenger, remained in New Orleans
for a fortnight and then took his departure for Boston
by rail, having during his stay visited the ship almost
daUy with Captain Devereaux.
At this season New Orleans was very gay; theatres,
operas, baUs, and drives on the shell road to Lake Pont
ehartrain were in full swing.
A visit to the French market in the early morning was
a rare treat to any one not familiar with the habits, man
ners, and customs of the Creoles and elite society of
New Orleans in that day.
Here one could sit at any of the numerous coffee stands,
and while sipping his cup of the most delicious coffee or
cocoa, with delicate coffee cakes and cream, — or, if
his tastes inclined that way, a tiny shell glass of the
finest old cognac to take in his coffee, — watch the
passing throng, of every shade of color, clad in garments
varying from aU the variegated hues of the rainbow to a
spotless white, all smUing and joyous, engaged in ani
mated conversation fraught with jest and repartee
thrown from one to another, in a breezy, light-hearted
manner, only to listen to which was most exhUarating.
This was a favorite stroll of ours at this hour during our
stay in port.
As soon as the ship was loaded, she dropped out of the
tier and down to the lower levee, making up a tow of
four vessels for the bar the following night.
The last of the stores having been taken on board,

166 OCEAN LIFE
with water, about 7 p. m. the crew made their appearance,
all sober, for a wonder, and at 8 o'clock the fasts were
cast off, and the " Carnatic " swung into the stream, being
headed down river for the bar, where we arrived the
next morning, and crossing at once, sail was made, and
with a light northerly wind, we proceeded down the
gulf. Rounding the Tortugas, we passed Key West and the
Florida Keys, with a leading breeze, and aided by the
strong current of the Gulf Stream, which here runs with
its greatest force, rapidly passed Florida, with Abaco on
our starboard beam. Once to the north'ard of Abaco,
the wind, hauling to the sou'west fresh, gave us a fine
run for a week, and meeting with httle easterly weather,
the ship's passage was a good one to Cape St. Vincent,
where a strong easterly gale was encountered, bringing
the " Carnatic " down to close reefs. Running down under
Cape Spartel, we lay off and on, for two days, when, the
gale moderating, we stood over towards the Spanish shore,
and the wind falling light, morning found us at the
entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar, Spartel bearing about
south half east.
A Spanish fishing-boat coming alongside, a lot of fresh
sardines were purchased, which made a great addition
to our table fare. They are a most delicate pan-fish,
sweet and delicious.
Fanning along with hght westerly winds, about 1 a. m.
(two bells), we made Tarifa Light on the port bow,
and as I knew Tarifa to be a revolving light, and this
was a fixed one, I was puzzled. The night was dark
but clear, and after satisfying myself that it was a light
on shore, and no other than Tarifa, I went below, and
caUing Captain Devereaux, told him Tarifa Light was a
little forward of the port beam.

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 167
Coming on deck, he took a good look at it, and for
the first time our opinions clashed.
" That's not Tarifa, Mr. Whidden," said he.
" I think so, captain," I answered.
" But I tell you it is not. Tarifa is a revolving hght,
and that is steady."
" That may be so," said I; " it's a fixed light, sure, but
it's Tarifa."
Looking through my glass, which was a good one, at
the light, which by this time had got well abeam, I could
make out the dim form of the lighthouse below it.
With a long look through his spy-glass Captain Dever
eaux exclaimed:
" A steamer's hght; I can see her smoke-stack," to
which I made no reply, and Captain Devereaux went
below. I remained on deck until daylight, when Tarifa showed
plain in sight abaft our beam, with the mountains of the
African shore looming up grandly in the morning light,
and looking aft from forward, I saw Captain Devereaux
come on deck, take a look at the lighthouse, and go
below at once, where he remained until nearly seven
bells. Passing Gibraltar, we again encountered a strong
easterly wind, making it a hard dead beat to Cape de Gata,
but rounding the cape Hie wind became more favorable
and we made Planier Light but a short distance south
of our port, and taking a pilot, the " Carnatic " entered
the basin of the docks at MarseUles, a very old city,
located in the southeastern part of France, but a short
distance from the Itahan border. It has a population
of nearly half a million, and is the principal seaport of
France, and of the Mediterranean. The harbor is com
posed of two big basins or docks, the old and the new.

168 OCEAN LIFE
Entering the old basin, we hauled alongside the pier and
commenced the foUowing day the discharge of our tobacco
and staves.
The second day after docking. Captain Devereaux
came on board in the afternoon, and after talking with me
in a general way, " By the way," said he, " I see that
Tarifa Light is undergoing repairs, and, for the time, the
revolving light has been changed to a fixed light. That
was something I did not know, when we passed it. Mr.
Whidden, go to your tailor's and get a suit of clothes,
and tell him to send me the biU. Don't you get a Prince
Albert suit."
I laughed and thanked him, and gave my order for a
nice suit, and Captain Devereaux paid the bUl. This
was characteristic of Captain John, — blunt, stubborn,
he always hated to acknowledge he was wrong, but once
convinced, he was ready to rectify an error, and generous
to a fault.
Fruits of all kinds were abundant, and as it was the
season for them, we literally feasted, while in port, on
the largest and most delicious grapes.
The barque " Azof," off the port of Marseilles as
shown in the accompanying illustration, was an Eastern
built vessel of 295 tons register, and a fair type of the
smaller class of freighters of our merchant marine of
sixty years ago. She hailed from New York previous
to being purchased by Messrs Isaac Jeanes & Co. and
Messrs Chamberlam, Phelps & Co., large ship-owners of
Philadelphia. She was commanded by Captain WiUiam Chipman,
a native of Barnstable, Mass., who in 1859 commanded
the fine ship " Isaac Jeanes." She was principaUy engaged
in the Mediterranean trade, plying between the various
ports in the Sea and Philadelphia, New York, and New

BARQUE "AZOF," OFF MARSEILLES

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 169
Orleans. Her eighth voyage was made from Philadelphia
to New Orleans with coal; thence to Cronstadt, Russia,
with cotton; from there to Plymouth, Eng., with general
cargo, where she was wrecked in October, 1859.
The cargo havhig been discharged, and the ship bal
lasted, we cleared for New Orleans, taking as passengers
the former American consul who had been stationed at
Nice, with his wife, son and daughter.
A few days later the " Carnatic " sailed from Mar
seilles, passing Gibraltar and the straits with a strong
levanter (a strong east wind prevalent in the Mediter
ranean Sea), and in due course entered the trade belt,
and from now on fine, steady winds, with bright, beautiful
weather, accompanied the ship all the way to the Wind
ward Islands. Past Guadeloupe, and through the Carib
bean Sea, we held our way, passing south of Jamaica,
getting a fine view of the Blue Mountains, thence along
the Cuban shore and past the Isle of Pines with its rich,
tropical growth of trees and foliage, rounded Cape San
Antonio, the west end of the island of Cuba, and with
course shaped for the Southwest Pass, a few days later
we dropped our anchor outside the bar of the Mis
sissippi River. Taking a pilot and towboat, we were
just in time to complete a tow, and at once were off for
New Orleans. "°
On arrival at New Orleans the " Carnatic " loaded
cotton for Boston, also taking on board ten barrels of
"Old Rye" whiskey, which were stowed directly un
der the after hatch. We had good weather and favor
able winds until past the latitude of Bermuda, when the
ship encountered a hard gale from the northwest, obliging
her to lie to, for eight or nine hours, but no damage was
sustained, for the " Carnatic " as a sea-boat was a gem.
With a favorable slant, good time was made to the South

170 OCEAN LIFE
Channel, when the wind, falling light, finally died away
to a flat calm, then breezing up from north northeast,
it rapidly increased in force until at midnight the ship
was under close reefs clawing off Nauset, the wind blowing
a hard gale with snow and sleet. It was a wUd night
and all hands suffered much with the cold. About six
bells (mid-watch) the wind suddenly veered into nor'west,
and although blowing heavily, the weather cleared,
while the air became intensely cold, ice making fast,
and the rigging becoming stiff very rapidly.
Captain Devereaux had left orders to call him if any
change occurred, and this was now done. Daylight had
just broken, when from for'ard, where I was busy with
the men, I saw the captain emerge from the cabin door,
and running up to wind'ard, take a look for some two or
three minutes. Returning, he called out, " Mr. Whidden!
Mr. Whidden! "
" Yes, sir," was my response, going aft.
" Where did you stow that whiskey you took on at
New Orleans? "
" In the after hatch, sir," said I.
" Do you think you could get out a barrel? "
" Certainly, sir." And calling the watch aft, in less than
fifteen minutes a cask was up and secured in the cabin
gangway. Tapping, and drawing off a small demijohn,
Captain Devereaux ordered that the men have a drink
each watch while the extreme cold lasted, then dis
appeared below.
Two drinks, however, were sufficient, as after the first
the weather moderated wonderfully.
Having passed Highland Light, we took a pilot on
board, and arrived in Boston the following morning,
and the cargo of cotton having been discharged, I bade
good-by to Captain and Mrs. Devereaux, leaving the

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 171
old " Carnatic " with regret, and having received instruc
tions from New Orleans to proceed overland to that port
and take command of the ship " J. P. Whitney," 1,200
tons burthen, I left at once for New York, and there
purchasing tickets for New Orleans via Savannah, Mont
gomery and Mobile, I embarked on the steamer " Ala
bama," Captain Schenk, for Savannah.
A fine run down the coast brought the " Alabama "
to her pier at midnight, and engaging a carriage, I drove
across the city to the railroad station. The moon, being
at its full, made objects almost as light as day, and the
drive enabled me to get a fair idea of the city, from which
I took my departure by the train which left at 3.30 a. m.
The trip across country was very interesting, the stops
for meals at the various stations serving to make an
agreeable break. On my arrival at Montgomery, I learned
at the hotel, that the " St. Nicholas," one of the big
river steamers, would leave for Mobile the following day
at noon, and having engaged my stateroom, I took the
opportunity of looking over the city, which is the capital
of the State of Alabama, situated on the banks of the
Alabama River, having a population, to-day, of over
30,000. It was then, as now, an important shipping
point for cotton. The banks are high along the river
front, but at this time there was a very high stage of
water. The streets of the city, which covered a large
area, were very wide, bordered with spreading shade
trees having the most beautiful fohage. Shrubs and
flowers were in full bloom and in the greatest profusion,
distiUing their grateful fragrance upon the soft and
balmy air. Leaving at noon, the boat took her course
down the river, midstream, for Mobile.
The " St. Nicholas " was one of the old-time Southern
river boats, of light draught, with a spacious saloon and

172 OCEAN LIFE
a bar. The management furnished good accommodations
and set a fine table. The captain and other officers were
courteous and obliging, sparing no pains in looking after
the comfort of their passengers.
Approaching Mobile, we found the river banks over
flowed, making the surrounding country look hke an
inland sea. All this sort of sailing was something quite
new to me, and the trip from Montgomery to Mobile
was most enjoyable. At its close, I took the boat for
New Orleans, via Lake Pontehartrain, where we arrived
the next morning, and boarding the steam-train I was
landed at the raUroad station in New Orleans about
11 A. M.
I found the ship had been chartered to load tobacco
for Marseilles. The first and second mates, Mr. Henry
P. Connor and Mr. Saunders, were on board, and on
recommendation of Captain Gray, the former captain,
their services were retained, and the selection was for
tunate, as they proved most competent and efficient
officers. (Mr. Connor at this time of writing has been
retired from the service of the Pacific Mail Steamship
Company for ten years. He had commanded the finest
ships for a long term of years, his last command being
the steamship " New York," which he took from New
York to San Francisco when the Pacific Mail Steamship
Company retired from the Atlantic trade to the Pacific.)
Our lading completed, the gangs of cotton-screwers,
who had been employed on board, wishing to get out of
the city for the summer months, made application for
the crew's positions. They were a fine set of men, and
all being good sailors, they were given a note to the
shipping-master, and by him were duly enrolled on the
ship's articles.
For a better crew I could never wish. Only one fracas

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 173
occurred during the voyage, and that was occasioned by
the action of the steward, a little feUow, but a capital
man for his position. His only faihng was a tendency
to be arrogant and overbearing towards the forward
hands, when he came in contact with them.
WhUe serving dinner one day in the cabin, a sailor
brought the bread-barge aft for him to fill. It should
have been brought at night or in the morning, when he
was not busy, so he kept the man waiting untU he got
ready, then filled the barge, and as he gave it to him, told
him not to come again at that hour, using some abusive
language. This Jack resented, and told him if he would
come out from the cabin he would polish him off. In a
moment there was a mix-up on the quarter-deck in front
of the cabin door. Mr. Connor, the mate, was in his
room, heard the row, and stepped out. When he saw
the steward on the deck with the man on top, pounding
him, he promptly knocked Jack over, and then ordered
the steward to the cabin, and the man forward. This
would have ended it, but the steward, after Mr. Connor
had gone back to his room, foolishly went forward and
the altercation was renewed.
The steward, being in the enemy's camp, was now
having a bad time of it. The second mate was at dinner,
and Mr. Connor, again hearing the noise, went forward
on the lee side, where, taking in the situation, he started
to interfere, but this was resented by the crew and all
hands pitched into him! He knocked down two men,
but finding the odds against him rather heavy, he seized
a handspike, and having backed against the house, was
doing good work, while with heavers, belaying-pins, and
fists the crew sought to reach him. Knowing nothing of
all this, I came from the cabin to take a smoke, when I
was accosted by the steward, who had deserted Mr. Con-

174 OCEAN LIFE
nor and came aft. " Mr. Connor is having trouble
forward, sir," he said. I walked past the house on the
lee side, and the scene for a moment was startling. Five
or six men were stretched out, bleeding freely, and Mr.
Connor, bloody and thoroughly aroused, was standing
off a half-dozen who were trying to get in a blow, the
rest having retreated to the fo'c'sle. Perceiving that
it was no time to ask questions, I grasped a heaver, and
the men, seeing the captain and second officer, who at
that moment came round the house from the wind'ard
side, retreated to the fo'c'sle, foUowed by the officers.
Bringing the heaver across the arm of one in the act of
drawing a knife, I caused him to drop it; a stampede
was made from the fo'c'sle to the deck, and the excite
ment was over.
The mate's head, which was badly cut, was bandaged,
and all hands were ordered aft, whUe the two ringleaders
were placed in irons, below, in the half-deck, and kept
on bread and water for forty-eight hours.
The riot act was read to the others, who were then sent
forward, after which the steward was caUed into the
after cabin and received the " talking to " of his hfe,
with the assurance that he richly deserved the thrash
ing which he would get, if the hke happened again.
On the promise of better behavior, the two men were
taken out of irons the second day and everything settled
down to its usual routine.
Off Cadiz the ship encountered a strong levanter,
and ran down under the lee of Cape Spartel. Here,
fully protected from the violence of the wind, she backed
and filled around, in company with a dozen sail of other
craft, who had also sought shelter under the cape. On
the second day, standing out towards Spartel, and seeing
an English man-of-war wear ship and head to the north-

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 175
'ard, the " Whitney " was put under close-reefed topsails,
whole foresail, and lower staysaUs, and heading from
the cape to the Spanish shore, running well in, tacked
ship in smooth water. Again standing over for Spartel,
we found we had gained a little. It was a hard beat,
but midnight found us off Tarifa, from then until daylight
barely holding our own. Day broke with dense masses
of vapor, or fog, shutting off the view of land on either
side of the straits, the wind still blowing heavily. By
10 A. M. the fog hfted, when, the mainsail being given her,
she began to gain, and by four in the afternoon passed
Gibraltar, from Spartel to Europa Point, the southern
point of the Rock, taking thirty hours, but we had the
satisfaction of arriving at our port seven days in advance
of those left under the lee of the cape. Half-way between
Gibraltar and Cape de Gata a favorable slant of wind was
taken, carrying us to MarseiUes, making the passage
fifty-four days from New Orleans.
Docking in the new basin, and obtaining pratique'
(passing the board of health), we were at once besieged
by every class of tradespeople and artisans who had any
thing to do with shipping to solicit the ship's patronage.
The first day we had consignees, stevedores, and trades
people selected, and commenced discharging the second.
A large number of American ships being in port, many
captains having their wives with them, there was no lack
of company, while drives and sightseeing made the time
pass very pleasantly, and one could hardly realize it,
when the time for our departure had arrived.
While lying in the basin, a most amusing incident
occurred, more amusing to the onlookers than to myself.
It was Sunday morning and I had made an engagement ¦
to drive out with several ladies and gentlemen and to
dine with them afterwards. Having dressed with unusilal

176 OCEAN LIFE
care, a short time before starting I remembered some
thing I had on board that I wished for, and taking a
carriage and driving to the dock, I obtained a shore boat
and started for the ship, that lay moored to the buoy
with chains from her stern to the pier. The cargo being
out brought her high out of water, while a French ship
had hauled alongside, shutting our gangway off, and the
only way of reaching it was by crossing over her decks.
She was deep in the water, while the " Whitney " towered
above her. She had just been painted, and a ladder
was hanging over the bows to accommodate any one
wishing to get on board, an awkward place to chmb
up, but the only way to reach my gangway. Mounting
the ladder carefully, to avoid the paint, and starting aft,
I had reached the main hatch, when, with a tremendous
howl, a dog that looked very large and fierce came bound
ing towards me. He looked wicked, and not a soul in
sight. Putting my dignity in my pocket, and making
a spring to the main rigging, I never stopped until I was
half-way to the top; then looking down, I saw a small
boy who had come out of the cabin administer a cufling
to the dog, that I now perceived was securely muzzled.
To make it worse, the rigging had been freshly tarred,
besmearing me from head to foot. As I descended the
rigging I could see my men lying around the to'gaUant
fo'c'sle chuckling, and all on the broad grin at the " old
man's " dilemma. This, of course, I pretended not to see,
and went to my cabin, where a complete change was
necessary. No suitable freight offering, the "J. P. Whitney"
took her departure for Trapani, Sicily, to purchase a
cargo of salt on the ship's account for New Orleans.
Trapani, a very pretty city, nestles down at the foot
of Mt. Juhan. On this mountain the ancient city of that

NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER 177
name, founded by the Saracens about 300 A. d., was built.
I visited the ruins, which are very interesting, several
times during my stay. Only one other American ship,
the " Isaac Jeanes," Captain William Chipman, was
in port. She was lying close in at the landing.
The ship " Isaac Jeanes," a photograph of the model
of which accompanies this sketch, was built of white
oak in the city of Philadelphia, by William Cramp:
dimensions, 160 feet long, 33 feet beam, 21 feet 6 inches
hold, 843 tons register, 1,150 tons dead weight. The
Philadelphia Public Ledger of April 1, 1854, thus records
the event of the launch of this fine ship as having taken
place on the day previous, which happened to be on
Friday: " Thursday was originally fixed for the launch, but the
tide not being sufficiently full, a postponement until
Friday was determined on, notwithstanding the general
hostUity to that day. She glided off in the most beautiful
style, and her advent could not have been more propitious
had it occurred on the most lucky day of the week. The
new ship is a fine specimen of naval architecture, and is
destined for the Mediterranean trade, under the command
of Captain Chipman. Messrs. Jeanes & Co. have also a
ship (' Wm. Chamberlain ') of 900 tons on the stocks
at the same yard, which is to be commanded by Captain
Isaac Jennings. The contract for a third ship (' Bridge-
water,' Captain E. W. Barstow), of between 1,600 and
1,700 tons, for the same firm, has been taken by Mr.
Cramp." The " Isaac Jeanes " made nine voyages before her
sale in New York in July, 1862, when she was altered
into a barque, and finally went ashore inside South Head

178 OCEAN LIFE
below San Francisco, where she went to pieces March
9, 1876.
Her fourth voyage, from Philadelphia to San Fran
cisco, was made in 108 days. She was considered a smart
and handsome ship.
It was on her seventh voyage — New York to Balti
more, in ballast, from Baltimore to Marseilles, from there
to Trapani, from thence to New Orleans — that she
made one of the two American ships, the other being
the " J. P. Whitney," that were lying here at Trapani.

MODEL OF SHIP " I.SAAC JEANES," CAPTAIN WILLIAM C. CHIPMAN

CHAPTER XVII
1859 - 1860
TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY. — RETURN VOYAGE TO
NEW ORLEANS.  TREMENDOUS ROLLS AND AN ANIMATED
OMELETTE.  A WEDDING PARTY ON SHIPBOARD
The ship's hold was made ready for the cargo of salt
purchased through the agency of Senor Luigi, who also
acted in the capacity of salt agent for Captain Chipman.
I went on board the " Isaac Jeanes " and made the
acquaintance of the captain and his estimable wife, a
most charming lady, quiet and reserved, yet bright and
vivacious with her friends, bubbling over with good
humor and a fine conversationalist. Captain Chipman
was a gentleman of rare ability, and one whom I was more
than pleased later to number among my friends.
In a few days there came another arrival, the ship
" Edward Hymen," Captain Neai, belonging to the same
owners as the " J. P. Whitney." Mrs. Neai, the captain's
wife, being with him, a pleasant httle party was made up
for sightseeing. Together we visited the churches,
monasteries, nunneries, and all places of interest in the
city. Taking delightful drives into the country, we
inspected the vineyards, now laden with great, rich
clusters of delicious grapes, of which we could pick and
eat, all as free as air.
One of these excursions was to the ancient ruins of
179

180 OCEAN LIFE
Trapani on Mt. Julian. We noted a portion of a waU of
an old church or temple that was almost covered with
Saracen heads. The coloring looked as fresh as though
recently put on, yet many hundred years had passed
since the artist had finished his work. He had gone to
dust ages ago, yet his work remained, and the process
that preserved the coloring in such a state of perfection
has become one of the lost arts. The Baths of Venus
were also very interesting.
While our dinner was being prepared at a Sicilian cafe,
-we sat in a room on the second floor with the wide_open
windows that extended to the floor admitting the soft
balmy breezes, while directly opposite were the windows
and gray walls of a richly endowed convent, which were
built out beyond the walls with arched gratings, so that
the nuns, or sisters, could sit in them, veiled, and take
the air. Shortly two appeared, heavily veiled, and seating
themselves, seemed to be conversing together. We,
especially the ladies, watched them with great interest,
and their conversation, by their animated gestures, seemed
to be of anything but a very solemn nature. The ladies
said they were laughing heartily, perhaps at us, for Captain
Neai was doing his best to attract their attention, but
they gave no sign of seeing us. Changing her position, one
slightly disarranged her veil, showing just a glimpse of
a sweet face, young and beautiful, not over two or
three and twenty, the ladies said. In a few moments
more, both vanished from our sight within the convent
walls. When dinner was ready all Sicilian dishes were served.
The menu was composed of spaghetti, stews, macaroni,
tomatoes and peppers, chicken fricasseed with tomatoes,
sweets, light wines with fruit, black coffee and bread.
AU thoroughly enjoyed the spread, after which the

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 181
gentlemen lit their cigars, and while smoking admired
the view. From where we sat, the bright blue waters of
the Mediterranean were spread before us dotted with
beautiful islands. A few mUes away lay Marsala, with
its gUttering mounds of snow-white salt, appearing like
a small piece of the frozen north drifted into summer
seas. Takiag carriages, we commenced our descent,
and part way down we stopped at a monastery of Gray
Friars, receiving a cordial welcome, with permission to
look over the buildings. Everything wore a sombre hue,
nothing to soften or light up the stem, austere aspect
of the rooms or cells. In one large room were the skeletons
of friars who had passed away, piled up in tiers, each
one tagged, stating who he was, when he died, and per
haps a few remarks on his life-work. Some were in open
caskets, whUe in the centre and at the ends of the room
were piled artistically great mounds of skulls, thigh
bones, and other portions of the human anatomy, present
ing a most lugubrious appearance.
The friars themselves were garbed in the plainest and
most severe style. A coarse robe and cowl, and a hair-
rope girdle tied around their waists, with the ends hanging
down in front, completed their costume.
We thanked the brethren for their courtesy, and con
tributing a small sum for the benefit of the Order, we
took our carriage and commenced the descent, which
having been accomplished, we drove to Luigi's office. As
we were in the act of alighting a bell struck, and instantly
all business stopped. Pedestrians, carriage drivers, each
and every one dropped on their knees, crossing themselves,
repeating their prayers and Ave Marias in the most solemn
and devout manner. This continued for a few moments,
when all arose, and business went on as if there had
been no interruption.

182 OCEAN LIFE
The thirty thousand inhabitants of Trapani included
ten thousand priests.
A few days after the visit to old Trapani, Mr. Luigi,
our salt agent, asked me if I had ever seen the act of taking
the black veil, adding that the daughter of a famUy with
whom he was intimate was about to do so, and giving
me a cordial invitation to attend the church with him
and witness the ceremony, which offer was quickly ac
cepted, with thanks.
On the appointed day we were early on hand at the
church, which was well ffiled with the friends of the
family. Shortly, a procession of maidens, with the young
lady at their head, profusely decorated with flowers, aU
being dressed in white, wended their way up the hiU and
entered the church doors. All knelt, while the service
went on, and she took upon herself the holy vows. Adjoin
ing the body of the church, which was of vast dimensions,
was the convent or nunnery, with grated windows, or
rather openings, through which the sisterhood could see
and hear all that was going on, without being themselves
seen. At the conclusion of this part of the service a priest
appeared, and let down her luxuriant hair, which fell in
waves about her shoulders, rippling down to the floor.
With a pair of shears, he severed it close to her head,
and taking it in her hands, she went around among her
weeping relatives and friends, and giving each a tress
with a few words of cheer and comfort, she smilingly
returned to the priest, when the black veU was thrown
over her head, and takmg her hand, he led her back of
the altar, both vanishing from sight.
Then arose a strain of music mingled with the voices
of the nuns from the grated openings, low and soft,
gradually swelling in volume, yet thrUlingly sweet and

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 183
clear. Higher and higher it mounted, until in one grand
burst of melody it rang among the fretted arches of the
roof, seeming to ffil that old sanctuary with one psean of
triumph at the rescue of a soul from sin, and a fitting
welcome into the portals of Paradise. It was to me
one of the most impressive sights, and still lingers in my
memory. The young lady herself was very beautiful.
I was told by my agent that the young girls are aU
educated in the convents, during which time they wear
the white veil. After receiving their education, and
mingling with the world, their great aim is to form a
suitable matrimonial alliance. They will not marry below
their station, and as the wealthy, eligible young ladies
far outnumber the young men who are up to their stand
ard, and as it is a disgrace to remain single after a certain
age, if they receive no suitable offer by the time they are
three or four and twenty, they will generally renounce
the world, enter the convent, and taking the black veil,
spend the remainder of their lives within its walls, devoting
their service and wealth to the church.
In Trapani, chickens, fowls and eggs cost but very
little, so little that besides live stock three beef barrels
were ffiled with eggs and laid down in salt for the home
ward voyage. Two of the barrels were placed against
the bulkhead of the inner or ladies' cabin, and by running
a plank from the mizzenmast to the side of the cabin
they were deemed perfectly secure against any mishap
on account of the weather.
Our salt in, and Luigi the agent settled with, our
anchor was weighed and sail made, and with a fine
easterly breeze we said good-by to Trapani, having
passed a most pleasant three weeks in its waters.
We had a quick run to Gibraltar and through fhe
straits, where, some ninety or a hundred miles west of

184 OCEAN LIFE
Cape Spartel, we encountered a hard gale from west north
west that blew with great violence, the ship being hove
to under a close-reefed main topsail, and foretopmast
staysaU for twelve hours, with a high sea running, the
ship making good weather, except when she would faU
off in the trough of the sea, causing her to roll heavily.
Breakfast had been announced by the steward, and I
was seated in an armchair at the head of the table, with
Mr. Connor, the first officer, on a settee at my right. The
steward was having his hands full keeping the dishes on
the table, for they evinced an unaccountable desire to
jump over the storm-racks. The forward dining-cabin
had an oilcloth carpet, which when wet was very slippery.
The table, settees, and chairs, of course, were secured.
Coffee had been served, and we were in the act of hfting
our first cup, when the ship gave several tremendous
rolls. We were holding on to the table, when suddenly
the lashings gave way, or rather the staples drew out of
the deck, and over went the table, with all the breakfast
and dishes, and before we could rise from our seats, the
two barrels of eggs broke adrift, and in less time than
it takes to tell it, every egg was smashed, and a sea of
yolks and whites of eggs, mingled with the debris of the
breakfast, was sweeping across the oilcloth with every
roll of the ship.
Both mate and steward had gone down in the mass,
and it was simply impossible to recover their footing,
while with every lurch they would be swept from side
to side, threatening to stave in the panels of the stateroom
doors with their heads. My chair fortunately did not
turn over, but with me in it, with feet drawn up, was
dashed from side to side, until I grasped a door-knob,
holding on for dear life, at the same time caUing for the
second mate. The scene in the cabin was indescribable.

CAPTAIN AVILLIAM C. CHIPMAN

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 185
A snap-shot taken at the psychological moment would
have been a bonanza to a photographer.
The second officer, in response to my summons, ap
peared at the cabin door, and taking in the situation,
called in three or four of the watch. Life-lines were
thrown in, and Mr. Connor, the steward and myself,
were dragged out of our ridiculous, as weU as most
uncomfortable position. A few buckets of water made
both the mate and steward look a httle less hke animated
omelettes. The work of cleaning up the mess with buckets, swabs,
and brooms took about all the forenoon, but beyond the
loss of the eggs, and the bruises and " barkings " of legs
and arms, no damage was done.
The gale moderating and the wind hauling northerly,
sail was again made, and a week later saw us within the
region of the trade belt, with all the canvas that could
be piled on, making good headway towards our destina
tion. Delightful weather and favoring winds made the
passage to the Windward Islands a very pleasant one,
and carrying the same steady winds through the Caribbean
Sea and Gulf of Mexico, the " J. P. Whitney " arrived
off the Southwest Pass forty-five days from Trapani,
and taking a towboat, in due course made fast at the
levee in New Orleans and commenced the discharge of
our salt.
During my absence, Mrs. Whiting, who was an owner
of three-eighths of the ship, sold her interest to Captain
George T. Avery to take command, which he now did,
and I turned the ship over to him, receiving orders to
wait for another ship, then on her way from Liverpool
to New Orleans, in the meantime settling down on shore
to await the " R. B. Sumner's " arrival.
The photograph of the " J. P. Whitney " incorporated

186 OCEAN LIFE
in this work is from a painting made at Malta in 1864.
She was built at Castine, Maine. She was dismasted off
the mouth of the Hoogly River to avoid being driven
ashore, and afterwards refitted at Calcutta, sailed for
Mauritius, and foundered with nearly all on board during
a typhoon in the Indian Ocean.
Captain George T. Avery, to whom I turned over the
command of the "J. P. Whitney " at New Orleans, was
born at Castine, Maine, Feb. 9, 1825, and died at Newbury
port, Mass., Sept. 20, 1884. He foUowed the sea as a
calling for over forty years, commanding during that
time many of the finest ships of our merchant marine in
the days of the old sailing ships; among them the " Daniel
I. Tenney," the " Importer," and the " J. P. Whitney."
He was a typical New England representative of our
old-time shipmasters. Honest, fearless in the discharge
of his duty, self-reliant, he won the esteem and respect,
not only of his employers, but of all vrith whom he came
in contact. Genial and courteous in his social relations,
and upright in all his dealings, he passed through life
a useful member of society and an ornament to his chosen
profession. In his death he was truly mourned by all
who knew him.
The photographs of the ships here mentioned were
tendered through the courtesy of Captain Avery's son,
Mr. Edward W. Avery of Melrose, Mass., who was born
on the ship "J. P. Whitney," off Bermuda, and the ship
was his home for the first three years of his life.
The iUustration shows the " Daniel I. Tenney " passing
Pier Head, Havre, France, outward bound. She was
built in Newburyport, Mass., registered tonnage 1,727,
and was a very deep ship, having three full decks. The
upper deck was flush fore and aft. The crew's and
officers' quarters being below decks made her easily

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 187
handled in tacking or wearing ship. Although not a
sharp built ship, she once outsailed the clipper ship
" Seminole," and made a record of 324 miles in twenty-
four hours. She was a big carrier, once having 2,576
tons of coal and 30,000 feet of lumber in her hold. She
was sold and converted into a coal barge, and was lost
with all hands off Cape Cod, the same night the steamship
" Portland " went down with all on board.
The time passed pleasantly until the " R. B. Sumner "
was reported at the bar, — a fine ship, somewhat larger
than the " Whitney," but I was disappointed about
taking the command.
Captain Elisha Dyer was an owner of one-quarter
interest, and fully intended staying on shore that trip,
and had so notified the firm, but he had been recently
married, and his wife took a notion she would like to
make a sea voyage with her husband. As a consequence
he concluded to hold on to the command for another
trip, and as there was not another vacancy in the fleet,
like Micawber, I " waited for something to turn up."
I engaged rooms at a nice boarding-house on Julia
Street, close to Magazine, where the family of Captain
Gray, former captain of the " J. P. Whitney," had theirs,
the rest of the boarders being young men, mostly clerks
and bookkeepers in the mercantile and cotton houses
of the city. Mrs. Conklin, a widow, who kept the house,
had three grown up daughters, and a son who was in
business in the city; a very fine family, the girls being
pretty, bright, intelligent, and fond of music, whUe Mary,
the eldest, was a fine harpist, and an accomplished
pianist. It was the early winter, and the city was in gala attire.
Balls, theatre parties, and the opera were the regular
thing, while evening parties at the house, musicales

188 OCEAN LIFE
and oyster suppers constituted a round of gaiety that
was very fascinating to a young man.
About this time my old friend and schoolmate. Captain
Eben Graves, arrived in port in command of the barque
" Panama." Not having seen each other for years, the
meeting was a most pleasurable one for both, and
our house being fuU, I gave him a cordial invitation to
come up and share my rooms, which he gladly accepted.
I introduced him to Mrs. ConkUn and the girls, and it
was not long before he was like a member of the family.
Instead of going out in the evenings, he preferred to
spend them at home, and I soon saw that between him
and Miss Mary it was a case of love at first sight. As his
stay was limited, matters had to arrange themselves
quickly, and one evening after I had retired he awakened
me to tell me the deed was done, Miss Mary had accepted
him, and Mrs. ConkHn had given her consent. The
wedding was fixed for Saturday of the coming week, at
9 o'clock in the morning. After the wedding breakfast
Captain Graves was to take his bride, with her family,
servants and all, on board the barque. I, as best man,
was to stand up with the captain, and accompany the
wedding party to the barque, being placed in command
pro tem. to take her down river to the lower levee to make
up the tow, while the captain attended to his affairs up
town, and I was given carte blanche to provide dinner.
At eight p. M. the good-bys would be said, and Captain
Graves and his bride would leave for New York, while
our carriages would take us all back to the house. This
was the programme as laid out by the captain that night
in my room.
Extending my warmest congratulations to my old
friend, I suggested the advisability of getting a little
sleep, as it was then one o'clock, but Graves was not

TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY 189
sleepy, and nearly two hours passed before I succeeded
in closing my eyes.
From that time on, all was bustle and preparation;
the invitations were issued, and the hundred and one
things had to be attended to, that precede a wedding.
The sisters were in a whirl of excitement, while I, having
no special business of my own, took a hand in all that
was going on. The week passed quickly, and the wedding
morn ushered in, with bright sunshine, a most lovely day.
The guests gathered in the parlors, which had been
prettUy decorated, and just before nine o'clock the wed
ding party descended the stairs, and took their places.
Miss Eva Lovering, a dear friend of Miss Mary, and a
most charming young lady, being bridesmaid.
They were married with the Episcopal service. The
words that bound them together for life were uttered,
the signatures were made, congratulations were extended
to the newly married pair, not forgetting the kiss to the
bride, who, blushing, looked prettier than ever. The
bridal party then descended to the breakfast room,
under the guidance of brother " Tom," who, as master
of ceremonies, filled the position most gracefully. Here
for an hour mirth and jollity reigned, after which the
ladies retired to change their costumes, and carriages were
taken by Mrs. Captain Graves and family for the ship.
After seeing the party on board the captain left for
up town, and at noon a towboat took the barque to the
lower levee, where the tow was made up, the " Panama "
being the outside ship.
After dinner had been served, the family party sat
under the awnings inspecting the shipping, and asking
all manner of questions. Not having ever been on a
vessel of any kind before, it was a novel experience for
them. By five o'clock, the captain came on board, and

190 OCEAN LIFE
ordered tea, but no one seemed inchned to eat anything
more, and as time drew near for parting with their
sister the girls grew silent, a tear would glisten, an eyelash
quiver, while they would laugh and try not to show it.
At last the whistle of the boat sounded warning, " AU
ashore that's going ashore! " and with a final embrace,
a hearty handshake, and a fervent " God bless you,"
the ladies were assisted across the shipping to the levee,
where entering the carriages, we drove home, more silent
than in the morning. Arrived at the house, an hour was
spent in conversation, the topic being " the captain and
Mary." " What kind of a voyage will she have? " " WiU she
be likely to be seasick? " and lots of other questions were
addressed to me, to aU of which I gave consoling replies.

CHAPTER XVIII
1860 - 1861
BUYING INTO THE " C. H. JORDAN."  A PROTRACTED CALM
IN THE TROPICS.  THE SALADERO DE LA FONDA, MON
TEVIDEO.  THE EFFECT OF THE WAR ON FOREIGN TRADE
The next few days were spent in writing and sending
notices to all friends, north and south, after which every
thing settled down into the regular routine, and I remained
in New Orleans until the early spring, then taking passage
for Boston, I purchased a quarter interest in a full-rigged
brig, between four and five hundred tons burthen, that
had been condemned by the United States government
as a slaver engaged in the slave trade between the coast
of Africa and Cuba.
This vessel had a history that I afterwards found out,
but at the time I knew nothing more than that she had
been picked up derelict off St. Thomas by a Provincetown
whaler and brought into Provincetown. She had no
flag, nor papers. Everything by which she could be
identified had been destroyed. There were slave-shackles
on board, and lumber for slave-decks, a large number of
water casks, and all the fittings of a slave-ship; she was
taken and condemned as such by the government, and
sold at auction to Mr. Charles W. Adams of Boston. He
in turn sold one quarter interest to me, to take command.
191

192 OCEAN LIFE
She was placed in Kelley's dry dock. East Boston.
Her cabin, which was below decks, was torn out and a
deck-house was put on for cabin accommodations; also
a new galley in the place of the old iron caboose. Her
heavy copper was stripped off and replaced by yellow
metal, and about 1,500 through locust treenaUs driven,
to strengthen her. Altogether she was a queer-looking
craft. Her cabin, which had extended to the mainmast,
was finished in mahogany and boxwood, with staterooms
on each side. In the panels of the staterooms were
imbedded bullets that had been fired from the skyhght, —
at the captain, probably, — whUe on the deck, in front
of one of the rooms, was a large stain of blood.
Spanish buUt, with bluff bows above water, below
she was very sharp, and from her mainmast aft she fell
away, carrying nothing under the cabin deck but pig
iron baUast. Above the between-deck beams she widened
out, her greatest beam being at the fore rigging; from that
she fell away aft, being very narrow at the stern, and
steered with a big, long mahogany tiller, which was taken
off, and a wheel substituted.
Having bought her from the government, an American
register was obtained with some difficulty on account of
her being of foreign buUd. The name given her by the
purchaser v/as " Charles W. Jordan." Her spars were
heavy, and of great spread, while from topmast, to'gal
lant and royalmast heads hung heavy preventer back
stays, to which tackles could be hooked, and set up to
heavy eye-bolts through the deck-beam on either side,
the brig having every facUity for carrying saU to the
limit, if necessary.
Having shipped a crew, the " Jordan " sailed for
Machias, Maine, to load lumber for Rio Janeiro, and the
run from Boston to that port showing her saihng capa-

BUYING THE « C. H. JORDAN" 193
bihties, I felt that nothing that did not use steam was to
be feared. At Machias we took on our lumber, including
deck-load even with the raUs, and at the close of a dark,
lowering day took our leave of Machias portj and the
gale increasing, by midnight we were scudding under
close reefs, headed south for the Gulf Stream.
At the time of sailing, the whole country was watching
for the impending conflict between the North and South,
although hostihties had not actually commenced.
Seeing few vessels and speaking none, our passage to
the equator was made in exceptionally quick time, the
N. E. trades being, up to 10° north, quite strong, and
from this point falling off, but continuing of moderate
strength to 5° north, when they failed altogether, and a
calm of a week's duration succeeded.
There is scarcely anything more annoying than a pro
tracted calm at sea, especially after having made a good
passage up to a given point. As far as the eye can reach,
bounded only by the horizon, lies a glassy unbroken
surface, perhaps a shght, undulating ocean swell, on
which the vessel lazily rolls from side to side, or lies
motionless, the sails hanging limp or clewed up to prevent
slatting and chafing. The sun, like a ball of fire, beats
down upon the deck, causing the pitch and tar to bubble
out of the seams, while the deck is like a furnace. Awnings
are spread, but the men go about their work in a listless,
half-hearted way, while the captain gazes eagerly around,
whisthng softly for a breeze, so the day wears on. Old
Sol is getting lower and lower, until like a fiery globe he
sinks below the horizon's edge. The shadows deepen
and night creeps o'er the sea, and the stars come out,
while a delicious coolness, in contrast with the fierce heat
of the day, is felt. There is no sign of a wind. So passes
the night, and almost before the stars have faded, the

194 OCEAN LIFE
watch is turned to, decks are washed down and scrubbed,
while every bit of woodwork, outside and in, receives its
baptism of ocean water.
Meanwhile another day draws on apace and
" Noiselessly as the daylight
Comes when the night is done.
And the crimson streak
On ocean's cheek.
Grows into the great sun."
Still no darkening shadow of a coming breeze, and we
he " As idle as a painted ship
Upon a painted ocean."
Day after day, and sometimes week after week, passes,
and still no wind. One can imagine the horrors of the
" middle passage " (from the coast of Africa to Cuba)
on a slave-ship in the old slave-carrying days, with such
a calm. But relief is at hand. Afar off on the horizon
a few small clouds are seen, while along the edge appears
a dark shadow, gradually spreading and rapidly advan
cing. No squall that, but a steady wind, the first welcome
breath of the S. E. trades, and we know the calm is a
thing of the past.
With every stitch spread, and every sail trimmed to
meet it, the good brig heels gently over, the white foam
thrown from her bows, and once more endowed with
life, she crosses the line, with yards braced sharp, con
tinuing her way along the Brazilian coast.
We sighted Cape Frio, and bearing away to the west
ward, the following morning entered the beautiful bay
of Rio Janeiro.
The brig having a clean bill of health, the doctor's
visit was soon over, and the ship-chandler's boat puUed

BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 195
alongside. He wished to know if I wanted to go on
shore, but as it was between four and five p. m. I concluded
to wait until morning. He chanced, however, in naming
over the American vessels in port, to mention the barque
" Panama," Captain Graves. This altered the case,
and I told him I beheved I would go, after all, and having
been taken alongside the barque, I ascended the gangway
and stepped on deck, where the first officer, who was a
stranger, received me. On inquiring for the captain I
was told he had not yet come off from shore.
" Is Mrs. Graves on board? "
" Yes, sir, would you like to see her? "
" Why, yes, as the captain is not on board."
He ushered me on to the quarter-deck abaft the house,
where Mrs. Graves sat in a rocker, and started to announce
me, when, with one look and a scream of delight, she
sprang from her chair, warmly greeting me, and seating
ourselves, we commenced a review of the time since we
parted. I answered all questions about the family, but
we had not proceeded far, when she suddenly exclaimed,
as a boat pulled towards us:
" There comes Eb.; we'll give him a surprise! "
Then she hustled me into a stateroom, where from
my retirement I could hear Captain Graves say as he
came aft:
" What! all alone, Mary? I saw some one here as I
came aboard! Where is he? "
After keeping him wondering awhUe, she pointed
towards the door of the stateroom where I was, and
opening it, we stood face to face!
With a shout he recognized me, and a hearty welcome
and handshake followed.
We had so much to talk about that they insisted upon
my taking up my quarters with them while in port, to

196 OCEAN LIFE
which I gladly assented, going on board the brig daily,
and returning at night to the " Panama."
At the request of my consignee I rechartered the
" Jordan " to take the cargo on to Montevideo, instead
of discharging at Rio, lumber being more in demand
there, and a week later, bidding good-by to Captain
Graves and wife, with the wish that I might see them
on my return, the " C. H. Jordan " got under way, and
running out past the fort and Sugar Loaf, with a fine
breeze was soon bowling along towards Cape St. Mary, and
nothing of note occurring, in a week we dropped anchor in
the harbor of Montevideo. Uruguay is the smaUest of
the South American republics, covering an area of but
seventy-two thousand square miles, whUe its capital
Montevideo is the chief commercial center, having a
population of about two hundred and fifty thousand
inhabitants. All fruits and vegetables grown in Europe
can be successfuUy raised there, the hot season holding
sway from November to April, and the cold season from
May to October. The chief industries are the raising
of cattle and sheep, and other agricultural pursuits.
The value of its animal products exported in 1897
was nearly twenty-seven million dollars, that of jerked
beef alone amounting to about four and one half-
mUUons. Quite a number of vessels were in port, among them
several American, including the United States frigate
" Congress." (The saihng frigate " Congress," 50 guns,
sunk in Hampton Roads, Va., March 8, 1862, after having
been disabled while fast aground, by the Confederate iron
clad steam-battery " Virginia," rebuilt on the huU of
the U. S. steam frigate " Merrimac." This battle was
the introduction of steel and steam into the navy.)
I was ordered by the consignees of our lumber to

CAPTAIN JOSEPH AV. CLAPP

BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 197
discharge at once, and recharter to take a cargo of jerked
beef back to Rio Janeiro, and while making arrangements
with Mr. Evans, — mentioned in a former chapter in
connection with the death of Captain Smiley, — ship-
chandler and provision dealer, who supplied about all
the shipping with beef and vegetables, I formed the
acquaintance of the different shipmasters, who made
their headquarters at Evans's store, getting the news
there, etc., etc.
Evans was a sharp, shrewd Englishman without much
education, but keen at a trade, bluff and jolly, though
at times very emphatic in his language. His business
and books were superintended and kept by Captain Joseph
W. Clapp, a genuine Nantucketer, who was the most
original of men. Honest, attentive to business, with an
eye always to his employer's interest, he displayed a
rare tact in dealing with customers, that was invaluable
to Mr. Evans, who was, at times, inclined to be irritable
when anything went wrong, and many took exception to
his language; but a witty remark or a funny story from
" Joe " would straighten matters out, and I think Evans
owed his success in business, in a great measure, to Clapp's
ability, honesty and faithfulness. In society he was a
general favorite; full of humor, and witty in conversation,
he possessed a fund of stories of his island home and its
inhabitants, that he could draw upon at will.
Horseback riding was freely indulged in, as at Buenos
Ayres, and many a gallop I enjoyed to the other side of
the bay, where was located the " Saladero de la Fonda,"
an immense establishment for the slaughtering of cattle
and the curing and putting up of the " Carne Tasaga,"
or jerked beef of commerce, that was exported to Brazil
and France in immense quantities. This was a place well
worth visiting, and a goodly number of rides were taken

198 OCEAN LIFE
around the bay to see the process of converting the steer
into jerked beef.
There was a very large one-story building, or more
properly shed, open at the sides, with a stone flooring,
and gutters to carry off the blood that literaUy ran in
rivers during the killing process, while along its entire
length was a double track terminating at one end in a
corral, or enclosure, which was built with an inclined
plane towards the end nearest the shed, narrowing down
to the width of a broad platform car, that during the
killing was introduced under the bars of an enclosure
between the shed and the end of the corral. This corral
would contain three or four hundred steers, and had an
opening into a large one that held many thousands. The
walls of the smaUer corral were broad enough for a man
to walk on them around it, and throw the lasso over the
cattle's heads, when they were jerked down on to the
platform car standing ready to receive them; the other
end of the lasso being carried through a pulley into a
patio, or yard outside, where it was attached to a horse
ridden by a gaucho, who, on the call from the lassoer,
spurred up and yanked the animal out from among the
others down the incline on to the car.
On a small platform, close to the bars, stood the man
who did the killing, and who, by reaching over, could
strike the animal just back of the horns in the neck with
a knife, severing the spinal cord, when the steer would
drop, as though shot, on to the car, and, the bars being
drawn, it would shoot out along the track, which was
lined with men about five or six feet apart, who tumbled
them off the car, and in less than two minutes they were
dissected. They took off the hide with a few sweeps of
the long, sharp knives, two more removed the flesh from
the ribs, while in less time than it takes to write it, the

BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 199
hide was going in one direction, the beef to vats for the
soaking previous to pressing out and the curing in the
sun, — during which time no rain was allowed to fall
upon it, — making the jerked beef of commerce, while
the bones, hoofs and horns were taken to the rendering
house. There were separate establishments for all these
purposes, and the entire works covered many acres, to
say nothing of the great corral capable of holding ten
thousand head of cattle.
A funny incident occurred during one of my visits,
although for a short time it seemed to me to possess more
of the tragic element. One fine morning, I had ridden
over alone, fastened my horse, and entered the shed that
was supported by iron columns, not over clean, and was
standing near the bars, watch in hand, timing a man as
to the length of time he took to skin and dismember a
steer; this work being so rapid as to excite wonder.
Sometimes when the bars would be dropped to let
the car out, the killer having missed his aim, the car
would come out with the steer alive and unhurt, in which
case there would be fun for a few moments before the
animal was killed.
This was the case on this particular morning. A shout
called my attention from the man I was watching, and
looking around, I caught sight of an infuriated bull,
with tail in air, and lowered head, making for me. Regard
less of clothing, I made a spring for a column and, climbing
it, was just in time to escape his onrush, which was a
fierce one. Turning from me, he attacked a pile of beef,
which flew in all directions. The workman had taken
refuge in the rear of the columns, from behind one of
which a man, as the animal passed, sprang out, knife in
hand, and hamstringing him, the excitement was over.
These fellows did not mind it; a loose wild buU, being an

200 OCEAN LIFE
affair of almost daily occurrence, had no terrors for
them. Meeting on shore daUy the officers from the men-of-war
in port, as well as the merchant captains, I hstened with
interest to the animated discussions on the prospects
of a civU war, and the probable result from the same.
Among the officers, many of whom were Southern men,
the feeling was intense, and news was anxiously awaited
with every mail. Captains gathered each day at Evans's,
and the situation was the all-absorbing topic of conver
sation. The lumber discharged, the hold of the " C. H. Jordan "
was made ready, by being matted, for the return cargo of
jerked beef, not an inviting article to look at, but when
washed and made into a savory stew better than it
looked. Our lading completed and anchor weighed, we
rounded the point, passing Lobos Island and Cape St.
Mary, headed north for Rio.
With the exception of a little brush off the Rio Grande,
our passage was a fair one, and in nine days, the brig
again passed the Sugar Loaf, and came to anchor in the
bay off the landing mole. The next day we hauled into
what was called the " jerked beef tier," a line of smaU
vessels that were moored, head and stern, off the city
front, extending from the mole to Cobras Island, and
having only cargoes of jerked beef on board, which were
retailed from the vessel. Between the water front and
this line was a passage for boats and small steamers.
As the shore people attended to the sale and delivery
of the cargo, and I had sixty lay days, to deliver the
same, there was nothing to do but take it easy.
On shore among the shipping fraternity the war
excitement was at fever heat. The news of the firing on
Fort Sumter and the breaking out of the civU war had

BUYING THE " C. H. JORDAN" 201
been received, and all knew what that meant. Besides
the vessels haUing from northern ports, there were a very
large number of barques and brigs haihng from Rich
mond, Virginia, and other southern ports, all engaged
in the coffee trade. These were in a dUemma indeed.
Once outside the shelter of the Bay of Rio Janeiro, they
were liable to seizure as prizes by any American man-of-
war that happened along. On the other hand, there was
the choice of staying in port while the war lasted, and
that might be for years, and Rio, though a beautiful
spot to visit, was not just the place where one would
choose to remain the year round indefinitely, or, as Jack
would say, " until the vessel grounded on her beef bones."
" Curses both loud and deep " were frequent, while
heated arguments in favor of the North or the South, as
the case might be, were freely indulged in by the numerous
captains. It was not only the Southerners who were
troubled in mind; the flag was shut down on, and freights
were not obtainable for Yankee bottoms without great
difficulty. Visions of Southern privateers, loss of ship,
and a sojourn in a Southern port or prison loomed up
in the mind of the Northern captain, while many were
not only anxious to get home, but also to enroll themselves
in the army or navy as defenders of the constitution and
the right.
To my great joy, I found the " Panama " still in port
under orders to wait for coffee, but the consignees had
not deemed it best to load her, as yet, and going on
board I found an addition to the Graves family of a
beautiful little daughter, and the captain was a very
happy man.

CHAPTER XIX
1861 - 1862
THE FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE.  THE DOM PEDRO RAIL
ROAD.  BRAZILIAN FORESTS.  RIO JANEIRO TO ST.
THOMASA MONTH later, the cargo being aU out, and not seeing
any prospect of a freight north, feeling that as at this
distance there was not much to fear from privateers, —
it would be better to engage in that trade than to lie
idle waiting for a freight to be offered north, — I chartered
the brig to a Brazilian firm for six months to bring
carne tasaga, or jerked beef, from Montevideo to Rio,
and bade good-by to Captain Graves and his wife, whom
I did not expect to see on my return, as he was about
to commence the taking in of his coffee.
The day before sailing I was asked if I could take a
passenger, and on my answering in the affirmative the
passage money was handed me, with the understanding
that he was to be aboard before daylight. A tug having
been engaged, the brig was towed to sea very early, the
towboat dropping us outside the islands, where taking
the sea breeze, by nine o'clock we were once again on our
way to the river. Shortly after leaving, the main topsail
yard was carried away in the slings, but having a spare
spar on board it was quickly replaced, and in two hours
the " Jordan " was all right again. It was a wonder
202

FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 203
that the old spar lasted as long as it did, for on examina
tion it was found to be decayed at heart.
Our passenger, whose name was Love, was a magician
by profession, and claimed to be a son of the great English
magician of that name, but in reahty he was a fraud of
the first water. I afterwards found out that he was
leaving Rio " under the rose " and that there were many
who were anxiously looking after him. I knew nothing
of him at the time. He seemed to be a genial chap, who
at times would give an exhibition of his skill at juggling
which appeared to us very mysterious, and we were
inclined to look upon him as one likely to draw a crowd.
His intention was to give an exhibition at the Mount
and then go on to Buenos Ayres.
With fine breezes and good weather, in eight days we
again passed Lobos Island, and let go our anchor in the
harbor of Montevideo. On landing I introduced Mr.
Love to Mr. Evans and Captain Clapp, bespeaking their
good offices for him, also making him acquainted with
the captains, teUing them his profession, and booming
him with a good word whenever I had the opportunity.
While we were making ready for another cargo of
jerked beef, the time was passed when on shore mostly
at Evans's discussing the war and the eventual outcome.
Meanwhile Mr. Love had been busy.
The Grand Opera House had been engaged for one
night only, his numerous engagements precluding a longer
stay, and Montevideo was placarded with gaudy posters
setting forth the accomplishments of the great Professor
Love, a wizard of the highest order and son of the late
eminent English magician of the same name. Never was
anything better advertised. Montevideo was on the
qui vive. The nerve of that fellow has been a wonder to
me ever since!

204 OCEAN LIFE
The eventful night arrived, and the immense audi
torium was packed from pit to dome, Captain Clapp and
myself occupying seats in the dress circle.
There was no orchestra, so the great audience was
thrown upon its own resources until the raising of the
curtain, and after a delay of half an hour the throng
began to exhibit signs of impatience.
At last, up went the curtain, showing the dimly lighted
stage, a table here and there, and one or two rows of wax
candles, with a few tawdry figures scattered about.
There was an ominous sUence. Presently the professor
appeared from the wings, dressed in a tinsel robe covered
with Egyptian characters and hieroglyphics, and bowing
to the floor, first to the east, and then in succession to
the three other cardinal points of the compass, assumed
different postures occupying about five or ten minutes,
while the audience sat in wondering silence. Then going
behind the scene, he reappeared in a moment, and per
formed some simple tricks that probably every one had
seen many times, also attempting some more dehcate
work with an assistant, but the whole performance was
so flimsy and palpable as to be seen through by the
veriest child.
Directly a murmur arose, then a hiss, then more hisses,
untu an uproar of indignation fiUed every part of the
house. The professor, who had at first retired from the
stage, now came to the front and attempted to speak,
but the uproar was such that he could not be heard.
Then came a shower of missiles, — cabbages, turnips,
potatoes, eggs. He stood his ground until an iron crown
that some one had torn from the decorations came
whizzing by his head, just missing it. Then he turned
and fled. His assaUants jumped on the stage in pursuit,
but failed to catch him, as he had made good his escape

FLA.SCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 205
from the rear of the theatre. He took with him the best
part of the receipts, and getting on a steamer just leaving
for Buenos Ayres, was seen no more.
The audience vented their rage on aU his stage fittings.
" Well " said Captain Clapp, or " Joe " as I used to
caU him, as we came out of the Opera House together,
" I'm blowed if that don't beat all. What if that iron
crown had gone four inches more to the right? "
Love's fiasco formed the topic of conversation for many
days after.
It was on this trip that I obtained in Montevideo full
information relative to the history of the brig " Charles
H. Jordan," former slaver. I had occasion to employ
some men from shore, and one, on coming aboard, looked
around and exclaimed:
" Why, I know this craft, only she's been altered! "
Overhearing the remark, I called the man aft, and
questioned him. He said he had made two voyages in
her to the coast of Africa, bringing slaves to Cuba and
landing them on the south side of the island near the
Isle of Pines. Both trips had been successful, and the
brig being very fast, and a great favorite, was not des
troyed after landing the darkies, as was often the case,
to remove evidence. He said she was a very old vessel,
built originally in and belonging to Barcelona, Spain,
and being in great favor with her owners, she had been
rebuilt on the same lines, and sent to Havana, where
she was bought for the slave-trade. At the end of the
second run he left her, and on the third trip to the African
coast, having about $30,000 in specie on board, the crew
mutinied after reaching the coast, captured the brig and
killed the captain and other officers, shooting the captain
from the skylight in front of his stateroom. Running
the brig down across the trades until in the vicinity of St.

206 OCEAN LIFE
Thomas, they destroyed everything on board by which
she could be identified, and taking to the boats, landed
at that port, giving out that their vessel had sunk. From
St. Thomas they proceeded to Havana, and having plenty
of money, whUe " in their cups " they betrayed their
secret and were arrested. Two of the crew turned
state's evidence, and the rest were tried, convicted, and
garroted. The brig was picked up by a whaler as before
stated. Having taken our cargo of jerked beef on board, we
again took our departure for Rio, where we arrived safely
and entered our berth in the tier for the sale of the cargo.
I spent most of the time on shore, daily looking for
letters and news of the war, our place of rendezvous
being at the ship-chandlery of George Esshng, opposite
Palace Square.
About this time I made the acquaintance of an engineer
of the name of Moore, a Virginian, and one of the con
tractors for the building of the Dom Pedro Railroad, a
road that was being built from Rio across the Sierras,
into the table-lands of Brazil, to bring the products of the
interior to the seaboard. At that time mules were the
only means for transportation. During the rainy season,
for almost six months of the year the roads were nearly
impassable. It was impossible to get the products to a
shipping point, and even in the dry season the rates of
freight were enormous. To obviate this, the Dom Pedro
Railroad was being built by the Brazihan government.
Mr. Moore had a section of the road to buUd beyond the
mountain near the Parahiba River, and being in the city
for supplies, gave Captain WUham Hobbs, of the ship
" Morning Glory," and myself an invitation to make
him a two weeks' visit. At the end of that time he
would be coming to the city again and would return with

FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 207
us. We gladly accepted, for this was an opportunity to
see something of the country outside the limits of the
port that was not to be shghted, and as there was nothing
to keep us in the city, we made our preparations without
delay, and one beautiful morning took the train for
Bellaine, a station some twenty-five or .thirty miles from
Rio, thence to the vUlage of Macawcos, a little place at the
foot-hiUs, the terminus of the railroad. On leaving the
train, we found a party of four or five of Moore's men
with mules, and one horse belonging to Moore. Also
awaiting our arrival were the pack animals to carry the
supphes we had brought along. I not being accustomed
to riding a mffie, Moore gave up his horse to me, and the
freight having been carefuUy packed on the animals, we
mounted and started on our journey across the range of
mountains. A fair road wound around hill and crag,
sometimes doubling on itself. Upward, and still upward
we climbed, until at night we drew rein at the little
hamlet of Brandon, located on the summit of the mountain
and the highest part of the road, where the main shaft
of the tunnel had been sunk.
Moore had ordered our entertainment ahead, and
alighting from our tired animals, hungry as bears, we
entered a house where a good supper awaited us, to which
we did ample justice. After supper, at the invitation of
the section superintendent, we went down the shaft,
upwards of a thousand feet in depth, in a bucket. There
was httle timbering, and it seemed a long time descending
through the walls of solid rock. The headings were from
eight hundred to twelve hundred feet from the shaft,
and the workmen looked like spectres, flitting about in
the gloom. I was told the tunnel had three shafts in
which the work went on, as well as at the ends. It
appeared to be a stupendous undertaking. Again entering

208 OCEAN LIFE
the bucket, we were drawn slowly to the surface, and
thanking the superintendent for his courtesy, we entered
the house and shortly retired.
The temperature at this height was a marked contrast
with that of Rio. When we left that city it was intensely
hot, while here, blankets and spreads on the beds were
not uncomfortable. After a sound sleep we awoke
refreshed. Outside the scenery was fine, the hills and
mountains showing up grandly, the peaks tinted with
the light of the coming day, whUe lower down the valley
the mist, not having lifted, still shrouded the view.
We partook of a hurried breakfast, and again mounting,
commenced our descent adown the western slope, and
reaching the foot-hills safely, made our way through
heavily wooded districts, along ravines and over hiUs,
untu about four p. m. we entered Moore's section of the
road and proceeded to his hut, which was the largest of
a number. It was used for general dining purposes,
whUe the cooking was done in a smaUer building adjoining.
Here we dismounted, all glad to rest, the section-hands
gathering at the big hut to hear the news, and after a
hearty supper pipes were hghted and the evening was
given over to a general jollification.
" Early to bed and early to rise," was here the rule,
and by nine o'clock the visitors from other sections got
astride their mules, and with a " whoop, la! " gaUoped
off in the darkness, our men seeking their shake-downs,
and by ten the camp was stiU, aU hands wrapped in
" Tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep."
GU Bias makes " Sancho " in " Don Quixote " say,
"God bless the man who first invented sleep," and
I think aU, that night, would have echoed the prayer.
Arising with the daylight, and performing our ablu-

FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE 209
tions in a big tin basin, we strolled out to take a look at
our surroundings before breakfast. These were, a large
cleared space in front of which was the virgin forest, a
clear stream of water a couple of hundred feet from the
house, and the woods alive with birds of every hue,
parrots and paroquets screaming and chattering, their
green plumage mingling with the most gorgeous hues
of every color of the rainbow, but no song-birds
such as we hear in our New England woods. About a
quarter of a mile distant in the rear of the hut was a
ravine, leading up among the hills, from which day and
night issued a noise like distant thunder. I asked Moore
what it was, and he replied, " Monkeys." The ravine,
which was heavily wooded, contained tens of thousands
of monkeys, who kept up an incessant roaring resembling
thunder. At the sounding of the horn, all hands filed in for
breakfast, which consisted of flapjacks, bacon, sweet
potatoes, stewed black beans and farina; the last two
being the standard dish in Brazil among the working
classes. Having made a hearty meal, the cook attended
to the dishes, the hands went to their work, and Hobbs
and myself had a great desire to go up the ravine, but
Moore assured us it would not be safe, as many of the
monkeys were of very large size and would attack a man
very quickly if angry, and that there were so many of
them, one would stand little show even if armed. So
reluctantly we gave it up, and spent our time watching
the men at work, strolling in the forest gun in hand but
seeing little to shoot at, coUecting leaves and ferns for
specimens, watching the many-hued feathered tribe, and
listening to the monkeys conversing; thus passed the
two weeks very pleasantly and quickly.
Taking leave of the section-hands the last morning,

210 OCEAN LIFE
we mounted our mules, this time leaving the horse behind,
as we were going over the hne of railroad, and mules
were reckoned to be more sure-footed than a horse, and
what a ride that return trip was ! Along ledges, the path,
in some places, not over a few feet wide, where one looked
straight down one or two thousand feet; chasms across
which a few trees were thrown, and you could look on
the tree-tops a thousand feet below! We scaled rocks
where it was necessary to dismount and clamber up after
the mules as best we could, and following their example,
bracing ourselves on banks of loose earth, we would shoot
like an arrow to the bottom of a valley eight hundred
feet deep ! We forded streams, and at one time narrowly
avoided a dangerous quicksand, and I mentaUy resolved,
that, when built, there was not money enough in Brazil
to tempt me to become a conductor or engineer on the
Dom Pedro Railroad.
But all things have an end; so it was with our trip,
and when over I would not have missed it.
When I arrived in Rio I found no chance of a freight
and concluded to sail for home in baUast, taking the
chances of privateers, and having received on board
what few stores were required and cleared for St. Thomas,
we said good-by to Rio Janeiro.

CHAPTER XX
1862
LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER. —IN COMMAND OF SHIP
" DANUBE."  HEAVY GALE.  CHINESE PIRATES. 
THE " ARIEL " AT SHANGHAI
We passed Cape Frio, and along the Brazil coast, with
fine strong trades, Bahia and Pernambueo, and crossing
the equator, were once more in the home waters of the
north Atlantic. Up to this time we had seen very few
vessels, and most of these showed no disposition to be
neighborly, but edged off as far as possible. We, ourselves,
looked upon every craft with suspicion; declining an
intimate acquaintance until we were assured in our
minds that she had no evil designs against us. All hands,
fore and aft, were on the alert for a Southern privateer,
but again, in this case, the old adage, " A watched pot,
etc.," proved true, and one beautiful morning we sighted
the island, and entered the cozy harbor of St. Thomas.
On shore I found the flag was shut down on, and there
were no available freights in the market for American
bottoms, and having received the latest news of the war,
we sailed for Boston.
All went well until we were north of Bermuda on the
southern edge of the Gulf Stream, and coming on deck
one morning, I noticed nearly in our wake a fore-and-aft
schooner apparently pursued by an hermaphrodite brig.
211

212 OCEAN LIFE
It had been blowing strong, with dirty looking weather
the previous night, and the " Jordan " was under double-
reefed topsaUs. Both the pursued and the pursuer were
close-hauled on the port tack, with every inch of canvas
that could be crowded on them. As they drew up on
our weather beam it could be seen that the schooner was
gaining on the brig and outwinding her, and evidently
finding it was of no use, the pursuer bore away, and
running down in my wake, was fast overhauling the
" Jordan." I watched her with a glass, and from the
number of men on her deck, I became suspicious, and
calling all hands, the tackles were hooked on to the
preventer backstays, while the order was given to shake
out reefs and loose to'gallants. This work the boys sprang
to with a will. Topsails were mastheaded and to'gallant
sails set, as a squall that had been gathering to wind'ard
came down upon us, and checking in the yards, and
keeping her off two or three points, the old brig fairly
flew through the water, reeling off fifteen or sixteen knots
at least.
The squall lasted nearly two hours, settling down into
a stiff blow, and we saw nothing more of our privateer,
if such she was, and taking a pilot in the bay, we passed
Boston Light, sailed up the harbor, and made fast along
side Battery Wharf.
I found the office on Doane Street closed when I
went to see my co-owner Charles W. Adams, and upon
going into Mr. Deshon's office on the floor below to make
inquiries, I was informed that he had been engaged in
running the blockade at Galveston, Texas, with his
vessels, and had been arrested, — or, rather, had gone
out of the back door as the United States marshal
entered at the front, making his escape into Canada
and from thence to England, where he was then residing.

SHIP "DANIEL i. TENNEY."
[Ser /i(i</r 186

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'EDAA'ARD HYMEN."
[See par/e 186
LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 213
On my return to the brig I was greeted by an officer
who had been placed in charge during my absence, the
" C. H. Jordan " having been seized by the government,
i. e. Mr. Adams's part, and mine being indivisible could
not be separated from his, and so was held as rebel prop
erty. This was a dilemma, but there was no help for it.
The only thing to do was to get a power of attorney from
Mr. Adams, which his brother finally succeeded in doing.
We had her appraised and purchased her for the sec
ond time from the government, to whom I afterwards
chartered her for six months to take naval stores to Port
Royal (South Carolina), and placing Captain Knott Bray
of Marblehead in command, I waited the arrival of the
ship " Danube," then on her passage from Rio Janeiro
to New York, and owned by my uncle, Mr. Thomas
Appleton of Marblehead.
These were exciting times, — the spring of '62, — the
dark and trying days of the Civil War. While the torch
of patriotism glowed brightly, and the love of country
kindled in the bosoms of the loyal North, still there were
many who sought to extinguish it, by giving aid and
succor to those who were doing their best to break up
the republic, and trample upon the constitution. Troops
were almost daily departing for the south, while the
buUetin boards were constantly surrounded by eager
throngs anxious for news from the front.
I had been recently married, and with the ship's arrival
I took my departure, with my wife, for New York, to
take command.
The " Danube " was a fine ship, of a thousand tons
register, and had been chartered to load coal for Shanghai,
China. She had been fitted out for eighteen months, and
it was the intention of the owner to have her remain in
the China seas, freighting, while the war lasted, there

214 OCEAN LIFE
being a better show there than in home waters, with less
chance of capture by privateers.
Taking leave of New York, and towing out past Sandy
Hook, we bade good-by to Mr. Appleton and his wife,
and other friends, who had accompanied us down the bay
to see us off and return on the towboat. SaU was made
quicldy, fasts cast off from the tug, and the " Danube "
was fairly entered upon her long voyage.
It was currently reported that Southern privateers were
in the vicinity, including Semmes in the Confederate
cruiser " Alabama," and a sharp lookout was kept day
and night, but no sign of any craft bearing the " Bon
nie Blue Flag " Avas sighted, and the " Danube " crossed
the equator without making the acquaintance of friend
or foe.
Good, strong S. E. trades swept us along the Brazil
coast, when taking the fresh westerly gales, we were soon
up with the Cape of Good Hope, and passed it with strong
gales veering from southwest to west-northwest, and
again entered the waters of the Indian Ocean. From this
time on, strong, steady gales prevailed, with snow and
hail storms, the " Danube " scudding under lower topsails,
and reefed foresaUs, reeling off her two hundred and
eighty to three hundred miles per day. This was, indeed,
glorious sailing.
In the longitude of Mauritius we experienced a gale
of more than usual severity. While not a revolving storm,
it blew with hurricane force. The barometer had hung
very low for twenty-four hours, and the sky had a wild
look. It was blowing very heavUy, with a high sea run
ning, so I deemed it best to heave to before night, which
was done, the ship making good weather, shipping no
water. At eleven p. m. (six bells) the sea seeming a
little smoother, we kept her off on her course under two

LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 215
lower topsaUs. By eight bells (morning watch) it was
blowing great guns, harder than ever.
Daylight broke, showing a wild scene. The wind was
blowing with tremendous force, but the worst feature
was the piling up of the seas, like huge mountains of water
high above and threatening to sweep over the taffrail, —
tumbhng in at the waist as they rushed past, and flooding
the main deck.
I regretted, then, that she had not remained hove to,
for heaving to now was a serious matter!
By four bells, feeling that she must be brought to the
wind or founder, I beckoned Mr. Broughton into the
cabin companionway, where one could not be heard
outside, and gave him his instructions.
I managed to get on the housetop holding on to the
weather mizzen rigging.
Clewing up the weather side of the fore topsail, hauling
spilling-lines well taut, leaving the lee clew still sheeted
home, and bracing the head yards forward, the crew, with
Mr. Broughton and the second and third officers, laid
aft to the main braces.
Signing to the man at the wheel to ease down when
there seemed a better chance of coming to without taking
a sea aboard, giving at the same time a signal to ease off,
and round in the main braces, slowly she swung into the
wind, and had just brought the sea fairly abeam, when
she gave two or three tremendous rolls that put her yard
arms deep in the water.
Fortunately the coal that was between decks could
not shift, having been looked after very carefully in
New York, and stanchioned down with a view to just
such an emergency, but it shifted at the ends, in the hold,
giving her about four or five streaks list, which was
carried the remainder of the passage.

216 OCEAN LIFE
Recovering, she came up to the sea, making fairly good
weather, although falling off occasionally, but shipped
no water to speak of, until about two bells in the first
dog-watch, when a big wave broke on board, staving
in the bulwarks aft, smashing the skyhghts, flooding the
cabin, also staving the boats, and creating havoc generaUy;
but the wind suddenly jumping into southwest, enabled
the ship to come up, head to sea, when she lay more
comfortably. With the change of wind, the gale began
to abate, and by six bells (eleven p. m.) the " Danube "
was again put upon her course. In due time we passed
the islets of St. Paul and Amsterdam, when bearing away
north, we took the trades, and shortly after sighted Java
Head and entered Sunda Straits.
It was now the last of the southwest monsoon, and
being anxious to get through the China seas before the
northeast set in, we made no stop at Anger Point, but
obtained our supplies of fruit, vegetables and live stock
from the Malay trading-boats that boarded us before
arriving off the point.
Leaving Anger, we crossed the Java Sea with a rattling
breeze, entering Gaspar Strait, and were so fortunate as
to get through before night, when the wind falling light,
with a strong current, we brought the ship to anchor to
await daylight. A sharp lookout with guns loaded and
everything in readiness was kept during the night for
pirate proas, should they make an attempt to board us.
The " Danube " had a good armament, consisting of
four large deck-guns, in the use of which the crew were weU
drilled; two of them being twelve-pounders, rifled, the
other two smooth bores, a dozen and a half muskets,
the same number of boarding-pikes, and pistols (large
size), sabres, cutlasses, and a magazine with plenty of
ammunition. This was necessary for a ship trading or

LIVELY CHASE BY'^ A PRIVATEER 217
freighting in these waters at this time, as the Chinese
pirates were very numerous, the Chusan Archipelago
being infested with them, as well as the southern coast.
Pirating, among the Chinese, was a regularly organized
business; their agents on shore kept them appraised of
what would be profitable captures: junks with valuable
cargoes or specie on board. While confining their depreda
tions mostly to junks and smaller vessels, they were a
formidable foe to European craft if they could catch them
unawares. Theirs were fast-sailing junks, often with
ten or twelve large guns, — stowed in the hold if they
ran into port, — carrying a crew of from ninety to a
hundred men. They were as cruel and bloodthirsty
a set of scoundrels " as ever scuttled ship or cut
a throat," showing no mercy when one was in their
power, unless there was the chance of a big ransom
being paid.
When at sea, their usual mode of procedure, on falling
in with a vessel that they deemed safe to attack, was to
get to wind'ard, keeping along in company, and gradually
edging down upon her, but so slow and gradual as not
to excite suspicion untU very near. At the masthead of
these piratical junks, if one looked closely, would be seen
a package of glass or earthen jars; these contained the
most viUainous smelhng compound, that only a China
man could stand, and not even he for long. Having
approached near enough, one of their men would be seen
shinmng up the rigging, and when aloft the wheel would
be put up and the junk run alongside, and the jars, or
bottles, woffid be dashed down on the victim's decks.
The fearful stench having driven all below deck, the pirates
would spring from their concealment, and swarm on board,
cutlass in hand, cutting down all who opposed them, and
in a few moments the vessel would be in their possession,

218 OCEAN LIFE
when the work of plundering and murdering went rapidly
on. These pirates have their regular haunts, villages and
commumties subject to their laws, governed by a chief,
or head, who rules with a rod of iron; these being their
places of rendezvous, from which they sally forth when
advised by their agents, or for a piratical cruise. It was
always considered a safe thing, when a junk was seen
edging down upon one of our vessels, to get a gun or
rifle ready, and when the Chinaman started to go aloft,
to drop him before he got there. This accomplished, in
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred they would haul off,
and nothing further would be heard from them.
Meeting the northeast monsoon, the " Danube "
passed outside of Formosa. Island, now having a dead
beat north of the Chusan Archipelago, to the Yangtse
River, one of the great highways of the Celestial Empire.
A pilot was taken outside and we ascended the Yangtse
to the mouth of the Woosung River, on which stands the
city of Shanghai, the chief seaport of China, with a popula
tion- of upwards of half a mUlion, opened to foreign trade
in 1842. It is one of the walled cities of China, and con
tains flourishing manufactories of silk, glass, and paper.
Outside the city walls, on the banks of the Woosung, are
the foreign concessions: French, German, English and
American. They are all separate from each other, and
contain the business houses, the various consulates,
hotels, and residences of each particular country, also
the centre of trade and commerce of the Chinese, who
transact a large amount of business daily, while the
streets are filled with bustling, hurrying throngs com
prised of Chinese and representatives of almost every
nation. We sailed up the river with a strong flood-tide, and

LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER 219
the " Danube " rounded to off the American quarter of
the city, letting go her anchor one hundred and thirty-
two days from New York. Shortly after anchoring, the
tide, runmng very strong, caused the anchor chain to
stretch out a long way ahead as taut as a harp-string.
A large cargo-boat, laden, and under sail, attempted to
cross our bow, but the tide proving too strong, she tpok
the chain amidships. In an instant she capsized, her
cargo of bales and boxes floating off, with her crew, up
the stream! The river was full of boats and sampans
belonging to the shipping, and the boatmen made a
grand rush for the bales and boxes (loot), but not an
effort from one to rescue the drowning men in the river.
Our crew saved the big steering oar of the cargo-boat,
and rescued one poor fellow who clung to our chain, getting
him on deck, where he stood shivering, the picture of
woe, and I ordered " Sam," the sampan boatman, who
had been one of the foremost in the race for loot, to take
my involuntary passenger ashore with his steering oar.
This " Sam " did unwillingly, and on returning I
noticed he still had the big steering oar, which he was
getting on board.
" What are you doing with that oar, Sam? " I asked.
" Oh, that allee light, Cappee. Oar payee him passage
ashore." Thinking it a good opportunity to read " Sam " a
moral lesson I said:
" You scamp, why did you not save those drowning
brothers of yours, instead of steahng all you could lay
your hands on? "
" Oh'ee, Cappee, can catchee one piecee box, long me,
no time catchee China-man, no hab time, one, two.
China-man drowned, no matter, more hee (rice) for
China-man live."

220 OCEAN LIFE
My moral lesson was lost on " Sam " and I said no
more. A great river trade is carried on by steamers, mostly
owned by American and English houses, trading between
Shanghai and Han-keou, which had only been open to
foreigners but a short time. Haffiing in to the com
pany's wharf to discharge our coal instead of into hghters,
we were brought into contact with the land, and sub
jected to the poisonous miasma of the river's banks.
Until now my wife had most thoroughly enjoyed the
sea life, her health was excellent, and she looked forward
to the continuation of the voyage with a great deal of
pleasure, but it was not to be.
Cholera, that dread scourge of the East, was raging at
Shanghai, sweeping off hundreds daily, and in less than
a week after arrival she was stricken down.
Everything was done, but, although she got over the
disease, she had not strength to rally, and the sixth day
she breathed her last, called home.
Her remains, after being embalmed, were sent home
on the ship " Gamecock," Captain Clement Jayne, and
interred at Marblehead.
After my wife's death I passed a large part of my time
with my old friend and captain Edward Meacom, —
formerly of the ship " Brutus," — on board his ship the
" Mermaid," while the coal having been discharged, a
cargo of cotton was laden for Hongkong.
While at Shanghai I saw the " Ariel," the first ship I
sailed in, serving as a hulk for storing opium, and except
for the lack of her spars, she looked the same, bringing
back memories of bygone days.
With a river pilot, the " Danube " took her departure
from Shanghai, towing to Woosung.

CHAPTER XXI
1862 - 1863
FLYING THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS. — IN SIGHT DAILY
OP " MOUNTAIN WAVE " FROM MANILA TO MADAGASCAR.
 FAREWELL TO OLD CAPE HORN. — SAN FRANCISCO
AFTER FOURTEEN YEARS
To the northern end of Formosa the monsoon was
light, but after dying away nearly calm, came out from
N. N. E. in a furious squall, settling into a fresh gale,
and sending the " Danube " through the Formosa Straits
flying, under her two lower topsails. The mght was dark
as Erebus, and although a sharp lookout for Chinese
fishing-boats was kept, it would have been impossible to
have seen them, and in the event of meeting any, it
would have been a case of " hardest fend off." The
foUowing morning being thick with fog, no land could be
seen, but on its clearing at noon our course was shaped
for the Lye-ee Moon Channel, the eastern entrance to
the port of Hongkong.
Coming to anchor off the town of Victoria, the ship
was at once surrounded by sampans containing artisans
and washerwomen, all anxious to secure the ship's trade.
I was ordered by the consignee to discharge at once.
Hongkong, an island near the Canton River, was ceded
to Great Britain in 1841, and with Kowluen on the oppo
site mainland, ceded in 1861, forms the British Crown
221

222 OCEAN LIFE
Colony. Its area is twenty-nine square miles, and it is
the centre of an extensive trade, largely through Hong
kong, in Chinese silk and tea. Of the population of
about 222,000, nine thousand of whom are white, about
137,000 are in Victoria, the capital.
A large number of craft of almost all nationalities
lying at anchor in the harbor, included many junks,
steamers, and men-of-war, and the bands of the latter,
playing each afternoon about sunset, made the harbor
very lively. From the top of the hill overlooking the
town and harbor, the view is fine. The ships at that
distance looked like toy boats.
The " Romance of the Seas," one of the famous chp-
pers of the '50's, that lay loaded ready for sea, appeared,
as one looked down on her from that height, like a beauti
ful yacht. This was her last trip. She v/as lost at sea
with all hands.
While seated in the house of Messrs. Russell & Sturgis,
our consignees, one forenoon, reading the latest home
news, every one was suddenly startled by the entrance of
a clerk, who announced that the P. & O. (Peninsular and
Oriental) Company's steamer that had sailed early that
morning was returning through the Lema Channel, with
her signal set, " I am on fire! "
As she had chests of opium in her forehold, valued at
$3,000,000, the excitement was intense, all leaving for
the water front to see her enter the harbor, where she was
beached on the Kowluen shore. She was scuttled by
the men-of-war boats firing pointblank shots at her
between wind and water, the fire being gradually extin
guished, and although the damage was considerable,
the opium was untouched.
Our cotton out and ship ballasted, the " Danube "
saUed from Hongkong, seeking a freight, and my intention

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 223
when leaving was to run around to Calcutta, touching at
Singapore, in hopes of getting a good freight to the
United States, or some port in Europe, but fairly out
side, the " Danube's " course was shaped for Manila to
try the market.
The fifth day out we passed the island of Corregidor
at the entrance, and sailing up Manila Bay, dropped
anchor off the city of Manila, the capital of the Philippine
Islands, since made famous by the war with Spain.
The old city of ManUa, situated on the western coast
of the island of Luzon, where the Pasig River joins
Mamla Bay, six hundred and twenty-five miles from
Hongkong, was founded by Spaniards in 1571, and was
comparatively small. It was surrounded by a wall, and
contained an old cathedral of the 17th century and
other churches, the archbishop's palace, monasteries,
convents, the governor's palace, and numerous govern
ment buildings. Binondo, the great commercial center,
lies on the north bank of the Pasig; the retail trade was
then in the hands of the Chinese, but the import and
export trade was controUed by foreigners. In the native
part, the houses of the Malays were mostly thatched
huts, and a fire breaking out one night swept off some
1,500 in two or three hours, running from one house to
another, wffich burned like tinder.
The ship was consigned to the house of Russell & Stur
gis, of which Mr. Green (later the husband of Mrs. Hetty
Green) was managing head, and I was offered a freight
for Boston that footed up rising $22,000 in gold. There
were no unchartered vessels in port, but knowing several
were due, I accepted the offer, and the " Danube " was
speedily made ready for loading.
Manila at this season (winter months) was charming.
Residents and visitors alike appreciated the afternoon

224 OCEAN LIFE
drives to Lunetta Park to listen to the exquisite music
of the band and enjoy the cool breezes. The hotels were
very poor, and it was more comfortable on shipboard,
but I went on shore daUy, returning at mght.
The American merchant ships in port, besides the
" Danube," were the " Mountain Wave," the " Galatea "
and the " Cyclone; " also the " Wabash " an American
war-ship. We now being homeward bound, and having
far more provisions than could be used on the passage,
I sold the surplus at good prices, and later made a few
investments that paid well.
Cigars, at this time, were very cheap in ManUa; the
No. I's were a very fine quality, costing but twelve dollars
per thousand, packed and put on board, while a smaller
cigar. No. 2's, only cost eight dollars. Thinking these
figures could not again be duplicated, and being at that
time an ardent lover of- the weed, I purchased some
thirty thousand, twenty thousand of them being No. 2's,
the remainder No. I's, and afterwards disposed of the same
in Boston at seventy and thirty dollars per thousand,
besides keeping five thousand for my own use.
I purchased some ten or twelve " pieces " of pina
cloth, containing eighteen yards to the " piece," made
from the fibre of the pineapple. This product of the fertile
PhUippines is cultivated principally for this fibre, which
is woven into a most beautiful fabric for ladies' wear,
extensively manufactured in Manila. It is of various
colors, fine and delicate, but durable, just the material
for the heated summer months. Eighteen yards was
considered the proper quantity for a dress pattern.
In addition to these goods, I had, just before sailing
from Shanghai, taken off the hands of one of the clerks
of Russell & Sturgis, a complete invoice of Japanese
curios, bric-S,-brac, with two nests of fine camphor trunks.

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 225
He had purchased them to take home with him, but his
plans being changed to remain in Shanghai for an indefimte
period, he offered me the entire lot at what he paid for
them, a very low figure.
Previous to our sailing from New York, my aunt, wife
of the owner at that time, Mr. Thomas Appleton of
Marblehead, had asked me, if I saw anything pretty for
house ornamentation, to get it for her, and this I con
sidered a rare opportumty. Having no use for any of
them now, myself, I gave her the lot on my arrival home,
and they were highly appreciated. The pina cloth made
up into nice summer dresses for the three girls, members
of a most charming family with whom I passed many
pleasant days when home from my voyages.
We saUed from ManUa in company with the ship
" Mountain Wave " and passed down the China Sea
together, being in sight of each other daily all through
the Indian Ocean until we were up with the south end of
Madagascar. The wind then coming out ahead, we parted
company, each going off on separate tacks, and we did
not again fall in with each other. It was the most equal
sailing I ever knew, on the part of two ships, for such a
length of time and for so long a .distance. The " Mountain
Wave," however, arrived a week ahead of the " Danube."
Around the Cape of Good Hope, past St. Helena,
Ascension Island, Fernando Norohna, and across the
line (equator) the " Danube " steadily held her course,
each night seeing us " a day's march (or saU) nearer
home." Nothing of note outside the regular daily ship's
work occurring from the time of leaving the Cape tffi we
reached the equator, — not a sail had been sighted, —
we almost began to feel as though we were alone on the
waste of waters, but now, again in the north Atlantic,
a sharp lookout was kept for steamers and sailing craft

226 OCEAN LIFE
of suspicious appearance. AU knew Semmes in the
" Alabama " was abroad in these waters, seeking whom
he could gather in, and the feeling that any day or
hour we might run across him caused an uneasiness that
was felt throughout the ship, but our fears were ground-

Sighting few vessels and speaking none, the " Danube "
passed Bermuda and the Gulf Stream, on the northern
edge of which we experienced light southerly airs and
foggy weather. Soundings indicated that we were to
the south'ard and westward of Nantucket, and feeling
our way, with the lead, around the great shoal, the fog
being very dense, we finaUy struck channel soundings,
when fanmng along, with light southerly breezes, the
" Danube " crept past Chatham on the elbow of Cape
Cod, the Nauset three lights, the high sand-banks of the
cape highlands, seeing nothing, but keeping the fog-horn
sounding as a warning to other vessels, until we were
north of the Highland Light with the bay open, when,
the fog lifting, the most welcome sight of the hghthouse
and sand-dunes of old Cape Cod eame into view. Taking
a pilot on board when half-way up the bay, we obtained
all the news of the war, with the information that Mr.
Horace Broughton, my first officer, had been drafted, and
was liable to serve his country either in the army or navy,
unless he paid $300 for a substitute. A tugboat which we
took outside the light towed the ship up the harbor,
docking at East Boston, one hundred and thirty days
from Manila.
Our freight of $22,000, payable in gold, when gold was
at a premium of two hundred and forty, caused the
owners to smUe and congratulate themselves.
The owners at that time were James Nesmith and
Sons of New York, to whom, I had been informed by a

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 227
letter from my uncle Mr. Appleton on my arrival at
Shanghai, he had made over the ship. In future I was to
take my instructions from them.
Discharging was at once commenced, and a week
later saw the " Danube " in the market for a freight.
I was stopping at Marblehead, visiting the ship at
Boston daUy, and the time passed pleasantly. The war
was the all-engrossing topic of the day, enlisting was
constantly going on, and troops were leaving for the front
almost daUy. There was martial music in the air at
almost every turn, while returning sick and disabled
soldiers, worn down by the hardships and privations of
the battlefields, were sad sights to witness, but there was
no shrinking, no holding back among the loyal sons of
the North. All did their duty, and a united country
to-day is the resffit of their efforts.
During our six weeks' stay in port, Mr. Broughton,
my first officer, concluded to put a substitute in the army,
and embarked upon the matrimonial sea, taking for his
wife a most estimable young lady of Marblehead.
Chartering the ship to load in Winsor's Line for San
Francisco with general cargo, the " Danube " was laid
on the berth for loading, and in thirty days was again
ready for sea. With the crew on board the ship we hauled
into the stream, and coming to an anchor, we took on
board some five hundred kegs of gunpowder, which were
stowed in the main hatch, after which the ship was ready
for sea, and anchor weighed, we proceeded down the
harbor. Dropping the pilot outside of Boston Light, we
gave a farewell wave of the hand to the pilot-boat, and
the " Danube," with all her canvas spread to a brisk
westerly breeze, rounded the Highland Light, and passing
out South Channel, again entered upon her 15,000 mile
run.

228 OCEAN LIFE
I soon found the " Danube " was very logy and duU at
saUing. She had taken in large quantities of iron that
brought her very low in the water, and she seemed to
have lost the springy feeling she had on her homeward
voyage from ManUa, but there was now no help for it,
and it soon became apparent that the passage to San
Francisco would be a long one, and two stiff southeasters
before reaching the trade wind belt did not help matters.
The trade winds were very light, and losing them entirely
in the latitude of 8° north, we experienced nothing but
light airs, squalls and calms, to the latitude of 2° north,
where we took the S. E. trades, which were fairly strong,
while gales with thunder and lightning were encountered
off the River Plate (Rio de la Plata), and running down
the Patagonian coast the ship was put in complete order
to meet heavy weather off Cape Horn. Passing between
the Falklands and the coast, we sighted the east end of
Staten Land, but before we had rounded it and the
" Danube " was pointed for Cape Horn, a howling gale
from the W. S. W. struck us,- accompanied with snow
and sleet, and heaving to under a lower main topsail
and foretopmast staysail, the ship buffeted the big Cape
Horn seas for a week, when a favorable slant of wind
enabled the ship to recover her lost ground; but it was
short-lived, — gale succeeded gale, in rapid succession,
and it was thirty days from the time of passing Staten
Land ere we had gained enough westing to bear away
north, but the change came at last. After blowing heavily
from N. W. for several days, it veered into south-south
west. Keeping her off to the north'ard and west'ard, under
two lower topsails and reefed foresail, until the sea went
down a little, the " Danube " made good progress towards
better weather, whUe the wind holding steady from

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 229
the south'ard, each day showed a marked change. It
had been a long, hard experience off the stormy Cape,
but we coffid congratulate ourselves on the ship sustaining
no damage under all the heavy buffeting she had under
gone in the past month.
Gradually our feathered companions, the albatross, the
Cape pigeon, and " Mother Carey's chickens," that had
kept us company around the Cape, having seen us safely
through the most trying part of our passage, dropped
off, as though feeling their escort was no longer needed
and they could now bid us good-by.
The change to smooth seas and bright pleasant weather
was rapid, and sail was gradually increased until the
" Danube " was again covered with canvas and fast
leaving Cape Horn in the background.
After being knocked about for four or five weeks in
the high latitudes of the Cape, one is in the mood to enjoy
and appreciate the delightful sailing through the trade
winds of the south Pacific.
Crossing the equator, and taking the trades in the
north Pacific, the " Danube " arrived off the heads of
San Francisco, where taking a pilot on board, again I
entered the bay, after an absence of nearly fourteen years.
What changes had occurred in that time! How vividly
were the scenes and incidents recalled that passed in
review before my mind's eye in connection with the
fourteen years since I sailed out by these heads, as one
of the crew of the barque " Zingari " bound for Val
paraiso! What changes, since the early days, before
California was admitted into the glorious sisterhood of
States, when Oregon was a wilderness, and Portland,
the capital, a city only in name! Now, under the march
of progress, the country was weU settled, with thriving
towns, villages, and smiling farms. Portland, still the

230 OCEAN LIFE
chief city, regularly laid out, had a large, bustling popula
tion, and a big steamship trade with San Francisco,
and elsewhere.
San Francisco! The ship hauled in at the wharf at
Clark's Point for discharging, but I should never have
recognized it as the spot I landed at fourteen years
before. Now there were wharves, with ships discharging
their cargoes, a fine street leading over the hill lined
with dwellings and stores, — no trace left of the shanty
or " hotel " with " Delmonico's " over the entrance, or
Mr. Benjamin Dixey's restaurant. Fine hotels and resi
dences, big storehouses, and piers for shipping, streets
and avenues handsomely laid out and thronged with busy
multitudes, all told of the advancement made, and the
growth of the " City of the Golden Gate," since the
early days of '50.
On our way up the bay, the stevedore's boat pulled
alongside, bringing the mail, and among the letters was
one from the New York owners, contaimng a- charter to
proceed from San Francisco to Baker's Island and load
guano for the North Sea, taking orders at Falmouth,
England. Consigning to the house of Charles W. Brooks & Co.,
Mr. Frank Ladd being the junior partner, we commenced
the discharge of the cargo, which came out in good order,
having sustained no damage.
I have, in a previous chapter, spoken of the large
variety of cockroaches on board the ship " Brutus,"
Calcutta trader. Across the docks, opposite the " Danube,"
lay the ship " Guiding Star," Captain SmaU, just out
from Boston, where she had discharged a Calcutta cargo.
This ship was literaUy alive with roaches, but at the time
I did not know it.
In the evening I went on board to make Captain Small

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 231
a social call, and when, after passing a very pleasant hour,
he invited me to spend the mght with him, I accepted,
and he gave me his stateroom, taking a spare room for
himself. Retiring about eleven o'clock, and puUing off my
boots, I disrobed and turned in, sleeping soundly until
morning, when I arose, and proceeding to dress, found
nothing left of my boots but the soles and straps. All
outside of these resembled a piece of brown tissue paper
perforated with tiny holes. On asking Captain Small
about it, he explained that he meant to have told me to
put everything, including my boots, in the basket at the
head of the bed, but he forgot it! The cockroaches had
eaten them in the mght, and the captain's forgetfulness
cost me a new pair of boots. However, he was good
enough to loaii me a pair to put on.
The " Guiding Star's " cargo consisted largely of cases
of boots and shoes, also carriages. The damage to these
goods was, I understood, upwards of a hundred thousand
dollars. As the cases were hoisted out of her hold and on
to the dock, crowds of people gathered to look at the
destruction, while the press teemed with the most extrava
gant nonsense regarding the pest, one paper stating that
on taking out the large guns destined for Mare Island
Navy Yard, it was found that the cockroaches had
increased the bores from a half to three quarters of an
inch in diameter. The damage was bad enough, and how
it was settled I never knew.
Earthquakes were of frequent occurrence during our
stay, some severe shocks being experienced, but no
great amount of damage was done outside of giving the
residents a scare.
Previous to my arrival home from Manila, I had been
very much troubled with rheumatism, which had increased

232 OCEAN LIFE
on the passage out, until now it became difficult to exer
cise my limbs or get my boots on in the mormng. I
consulted a specialist on rheumatism, and he was of the
opinion that he could cure me, but it would take two and
perhaps three months. Meanwhile I would have to go
under special treatment, which, while not confining me
to the house, would interfere with my going to sea. My
consignees, knowing my physician weU, advised me to
stop and continue the treatment, assuring me he waa
very successful in cases like mine, so having communicated
with the owners and obtained their sanction, the cargo
being out and ship baUasted, I turned the command of
the " Danube " over to my first officer, Mr. Broughton,
who had been with me three years, and accompanying
the ship outside the heads, with a hearty handshake,
and wishing him a safe and prosperous voyage, I returned
to San Francisco on the towboat. I was sorry to leave
the ship, but I felt that in my state of health the voyage
would probably use me up, and as the treatment was
benefiting me, I made up my mind it would be better to
stop and go through with it, a course I have never since
regretted, for every particle of the disease was eradicated
from my system, and I have never been troubled with it
to any great extent since.
To be in San Francisco without a command was a
novel experience for me, but I was not long unemployed.
The " Eagle Wing," a sixteen-hundred-ton clipper ship,
arrived in charge of the mate. Captain Linnell having
been killed on the passage out, off the River Plate (Rio
de la Plata) in a terrible manner.
The ship, whUe running free, was suddenly taken aback
in a heavy squall, and the boom tackle parting, the heavy
spanker-boom swept across the quarter-deck, the sheet
catching Captain Linnell, and throwing him against the

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 233
wheel, driving the spoke handles into his body, death
resffiting very shortly therefrom. For some reason, my
consignees, who were friends of the owners of the ship,
were not satisfied with the conduct of the mate, then in
command, but could do nothing without a power of
attorney from the owners. This they obtained, and
sending for me, I was placed in command of the " Eagle
Wing," to attend to her business until a captain could
be sent out from New York. I stated to Messrs. Brooks
& Co. that while I could attend to the ship's business in
port, which would not interfere with my medical treat
ment, I would not go to sea in her, having just left my own
ship. Tffis was all settled, and they were to pay me
$200 per month, gold, and my board at the Russ
House. My first act, after taking charge, was to give the mate
and cook their discharge, for the reason that they were
caught selling the ship's stores and sails, which I traced
and was fortunate in recovering from the parties to
whom they were sold. I retained the carpenter, who
seemed an honest fellow; in fact, it was through him I first
obtained my information of the rascality of the others.
Employing a good, reliable ship-keeper, I placed him
on board, after the cargo was out, and taking in six
hundred tons of ballast to keep her on her feet, I had her
anchored in the stream to await the arrival of Captain
George B. Kellum from New York.
I had now plenty of leisure, and one morning, I went
with a party, — four making up our number, two city
merchants, Captain Pendelton and myself, — for a drive
to some medical springs, a health resort about twenty-
five mUes south of the city. We left at 6 a. m., seated in
an open carriage, behind a spanking pair of grays. The
drive in the open air, which was as bracing and exhilarat-

234 OCEAN LIFE
ing as champagne, through a beautiful country, over good
roads, was one long to be remembered. I had often
heard people speak of the glorious climate of California,
but I had never realized fully, untU that morning, what
it meant.Arriving at the Springs between nine and ten o'clock,
breakfast was ordered, and we impatiently awaited its
preparation, in the meanwhile strolling about the grounds,
which were prettily laid out, and taking in long draughts
of the purest air.
When breakfast was announced we filed into a cozy
room decked with flowers, the open windows allowing
the fresh air laden with the fragrance of the woods to
sweep through. The table, with its snowy linen and silver
service, was spread with the most tempting repast of
fruit, fresh eggs and crisp bacon, tender steak done to a
turn, and the crowning dish a large platter of fresh moun
tain trout, that, as the Irishman said, " were but a few
hours before walking around their real estate, little think
ing of the invitation they would receive to join four
gentlemen at breakfast this mormng! "
With keen appetites sharpened by the morning drive,
we did ample justice to the bountiful spread, and at noon,
leaving the Springs, and driving leisurely back to the
city, we arrived in time for dinner at six, it being voted
by all the most enjoyable trip of the season.
Messrs. Brooks and Ladd, upon whom I called daily,
were engaged in a large sugar trade with the Sandwich
Islands (Hawaii). Mr. Ladd had told me he had lived
in Honolulu, and I asked him if he ever knew one Field,
who was a shipmate of mine and left the ship at Honolulu,
in '48, to go into the house of Charles Brewer & Co.,
merchants. " What was his first name? " he asked.
" Barnum," I replied, " Barnum W. Field."

THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS 235
" Why, yes," he answered, " I was brought up in his
counting- room."
He then gave me a sketch of the career, to date, of
Mr. Field, or " Barney " as we designated him on the
" Tsar." He said Field went to California for Messrs.
Brewer & Co. in the '50's and made a good deal of money
for his house; later he went into business for himself in
Honolffiu, and Ladd had gone into his counting-room.
Shortly after this Field left the island, and was then in
New York, engaged in the western produce business on
Broadway. This information I was glad to get, as I had a desire
to know what had become of him and how he had pros
pered. The " Eagle Wing " was chartered to load for New
York, and Captain Kellum having arrived, I turned over
the command to him. Over two months had now elapsed,
and I was feeling so much better I was anxious to be off,
and two weeks later I was told by my doctor, giving me
advice as to diet, etc., that it was safe for me to leave.

CHAPTER XXII
1863 - 1864
THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63.  PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIPS. 
ACAPULCO. — ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.  SUPERCARGO TO
THE BAHAMA ISLANDS.  SCHOONER " ELIZABETH "
Among my friends whom I bade good-by were a number
of pilots. I had been of some service to them during my
stay in port. An attempt had been made to do away
with the pilot-boats, and have the pilots offiy on the tow-
boats. These, of course, always carrying a pUot, would
enable the captain to have his ship towed to sea in one
tide, and it not being compffisory to take another pilot
other than the one on the towboat, the regffiar pUotage
outward would be saved.
This would enable the ship to get to sea, not only
quickly, but cheaply, as the towing rates were not high,
being kept down by the pilots, who were independent
of the Towboat Association. This, at first glance, seemed
a good thing for the shipping, but it would have operated
disastrously for the pilot service, as without the ships to
take to sea, they would have to give up their boats and
go out of business, throwing the whole pUotage business
into the hands of the towboat companies, who, I argued,
would naturally put up their rates, and the shipping
would be at their mercy. In short, it would establish
a complete monopoly of the pilot and towage systems.
236

THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 237
This I worked against in favor of the pilot-boat system,
taking the ground that it was entering a port a pilot was
most needed, and that when a captain had brought his
ship inside the Farralones from off a long passage, it
blowing hard perhaps, and the land shrouded in thick
fog, with the bar breaking a feather white, and a rock-
ribbed coast close aboard, he felt a deal more comfortable
with a pilot on board, and a pUot-boat would lie off under
the islands, looking for him in bad weather, — as well as
bright sunshine, — when no towboat was going to cross
the bar and hunt around in the fog for his ship. He
coffid do the best he could, and look after himself until
the weather cleared, when, if he were near enough, a
boat might run out and tow him to port. The whole
matter was gone over and argued, pro and con, not only
among the pilots, but by the captains in port. In the
end the pilots came out ahead, and appreciating the part
I had taken in the controversy, they presented me with
a beautiful cane appropriately inscribed. It was of
Mexican wood, dark, simUar to rosewood, and a fine speci
men of gold quartz was inserted in the head. This I
treasure as a reminder of my last visit to San Francisco,
nearly forty-four years ago, and the pleasant associations
formed during my stay.
I engaged passage on the Pacific Mail Steamship " Con
stitution," for New York via Panama, and we steamed
out of San Francisco Bay with a large passenger list, —
between nine hundred and a thousand. There was
ample accommodation on the big " Constitution," but
with the much smaller boat on the Atlantic side, it was
a problem where they would all be stowed. But the
problem did not seem to disturb any one. We had a
pleasant run down the coast, touching a few hours at
Acapulco, Mexico, to land mails and passengers, during

238 OCEAN LIFE
which time those of the through passengers who wished
could go ashore, but it was so much pleasanter on board
under the awnings than wandering around on shore in
the hot sun, few avaUed themselves of the opportunity,
and the whistle soon calling aboard all stragglers, with
her prow pointing seaward, the " Constitution " bade
good-by to Acapulco, while the gong sounded for dinner.
Commodore Watkins and his chief executive, Captain
Caverly, were two of the most efficient officers in the
service, gemal and courteous to their passengers. The
discipline of the ship was perfect, every officer and every
man instantly at his station, at fire signals or emergency
calls. One was made to feel an unusual sense of security
on a steamship in charge of such men, and, as the result
of close observation, I offer this slight tribute to their
worth. Arriving at Panama, we were transferred to the cars
of the Panama Railroad Company, which after a four
hours' ride, brought us to Aspinwall (Colon), where we
embarked on the steamer " North Star " for New York.
Once on board, the change was quickly noticed between
the two boats. Staterooms were packed to the limit,
while the remainder of the passengers slept on tables and
under tables, on the cabin deck, in short anywhere they
could find a resting-place without being trampled upon.
However, there was, generally speaking, no grumbUng,
all accepting the situation, and as long as the larder
held out and a good table was set, everything was har
monious. Bright, pleasant weather and a smooth sea
prevailed the entire passage.
A funny incident occurred which caused a great deal
of amusement to those knowing the secret. The bar on
the boat was not overstocked, and the bartender, not
anticipating such a rush, had a scant supply of liquors.

THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 239
while two-thirds of the crowd were extremely bibulous.
As a consequence the stock was quickly reduced until but
one bottle of brandy remained. This bottle did service
for nearly three days, and must have supplied some
hundred and fifty to two hundred passengers with drinlcs
at two bits (25 cents) each.
The bartender hated to close down, and as fast as a
drink was called for it was replaced by the same amount
of colored water. It grew to be comical to see a passenger
walk up and call for a glass of brandy and the bottle
passed out, and in five minutes one or two more saunter
up and caU for whiskey and the same bottle handed out.
This was repeated until not the least odor of any kind of
liquor remained. A man would deposit a quarter, fill
his glass brimming full and drink it off, then turn away
with a look of disgust, muttering something about the
" blarsted " weakness of the spirits. It was of no use,
though; twenty-four hours before arriving the barkeeper
took down ffis sign and closed up. For nearly three days
that could truly have been called a temperance bar.
On arrival and hauling in at the pier in New York,
the passengers quickly scattered.
Walking up Broadway, my eye encountered a large
sign reading " Barnum W. Field, Western Produce." I
crossed quickly, and entering the store, which was large
and weU-ffiled, I walked to the rear, and asked one of the
many clerks employed, if Mr. Field was in.
" Yes, but he is engaged for the moment," was the
reply. " Shall I take your name? "
WhUe we were talking, two gentlemen emerged from
the private office and passed to the forward end of the
store. " Which is Mr. Field? " I asked. " The taU, large man,"
was the answer. Following and standing near them until

240 OCEAN LIFE
the gentleman turned to go, I stepped up, and holding out
my hand, said, " Good morning, Barney."
" You have the advantage of me," he said, looking
sharply at me, and taking my hand. " Your face has a
famUiar look, but I can't place you."
" Yet we were shipmates and chums," I laughed.
" Where? " said he.
" On the ship ' Tsar,' " I replied.
A look of surprise crossed his features, and calling my
name, he heartily shook hands, and invited me into his
private office, where we sat an hour or more, comparing
notes since the time we had left the ship in Honolulu,
in '48; then bidding him good-by, and promising to see
him when again in New York, I drove to — where the
Grand Central Station is now, and took the train for
Boston. It had now been three years since the breaking out of
the Civil War, and the end was not yet. American ship
ping, aside from our navy, was still at a discount, with
very little moving, except under a foreign flag.
Mr. George Deshon asked me, one day when I had
caUed into Mr. Deshon's office on Doane Street, if I would
take a trip to the Bahamas, and when I inquired the
nature of the business, and what he wished of me, he
explained the situation. Owing to the war, Nassau had
become the headquarters of the blockade runners, and
there was a great deal of money afloat among the inhab
itants of the, islands, chiefly a colored population. He
believed that a good business could be done by trading,
and selling to the blacks a miscellaneous cargo, made up
of articles adapted to their needs, that coffid be disposed
of at a great profit, adding that he and his brother had
bought a schooner and were going to load her. He had
a list of the cargo he was buying made and shown to me,

THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 241
and said he wanted a man to command her, whom he knew
and in whom he could place confidence; to take entire
charge and management not only of the schooner but
of the cargo, and dispose of the latter among the darkies
at the islands; also, to purchase a return cargo of fruit,
or anything I thought woffid pay. He offered me satis
factory compensation, and I accepted the position, at
once taking charge of the schooner lying at India Wharf,
which I found to be the old fishing-schooner " Eliza
beth," formerly of Marblehead, a staunch old craft, not
withstanding her age. Her cabin accommodations had
been enlarged, all hands living aft, while the fo'c'sle, or
forepeak, had been thrown into the hold. Sails and
rigging were in good order, being comparatively new.
She was not a fast sailer, but a fine sea-boat, as easy in
a gale, hove to, as an old shoe.
On the following day the cargo began to come alongside,
and I remained on the dock to receive and receipt for it.
While thus engaged a party of seven men strolled down
the wharf, looking at the different craft. Well knowing
them to be seafaring men, there yet was something
about them different from the fo'c'sle " Jack " that one
sees about wharves and along the water front. While
I was watching them, trjdng to size them up, they finally
stopped alongside the schooner, looking at her cargo
of bales and boxes, and one of them, approaching me,
asked where she was bound.
" To the Bahamas," I answered.
" Where? " he again asked.
" To the Bahama Islands, West Indies," I replied.
" Going to saU quickly? "
" As soon as loaded."
" Got your crew? "
" Not yet."

242 OCEAN LIFE
" Can we go on board and look her over? "
" Certainly," I said.
Presently he returned, and said they would all like to
ship, asking what wages I was paying. " Fifty doUars
per month, and sixty dollars to mate and cook," was the
answer. This was satisfactory, and settling on one for
mate and one for cook amongst themselves, they asked me
if I would accept them as such. I told them I would if
they knew their business. There was a mystery about
them, but I was satisfied their motive in shipping was
straight, and they were all able-bodied, bright, intelligent
men, just what I wanted for the cruise, so giving them a
note to the shipping-master, they were enrolled by him
on the articles of the good schooner " Elizabeth " for a
voyage to the Bahamas and a market, for a term not
exceeding nine months. Returffing to the schooner,
they went to work, took in and stowed her cargo, got
stores aboard, bent sails, filled water, and got the vessel
ready for sea without my having to employ a man outside
my crew.
We sailed with a fine, strong, westerly wind, having
made arrangements with Mr. George Deshon to meet me
at Harbor Island, a small island that makes the harbor
of Eleuthera, my first port of call.
After getting outside Boston Light, we had occasion
to jibe ship, and I noted the mate, or first hand, with the
crew, knew much more about a schooner and her working
than I did, for I was accustomed to square-riggers! No
orders were necessary except to tell the mate what I
wanted done, every man knowing what was required
beforehand. The wind hauling to the south'ard, and blowing a
stiff gale, we hove to on the southeast part of Georges
Bank, and putting the wheel alee in the becket, with one

THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63 243
on deck for the lookout, all hands settled down to enjoy
themselves in the cabin, where it was warm and com
fortable. Green, my first hand, a big fellow from Castine,
Maine, got out his fiddle, and being a good performer,
made everything lively for a couple of hours.
It all came out that evening, — who my crew were.
They were, every one of them, skippers of coasting
schooners who had been drafted into the army, and
having no desire td serve and no wish to hire or money
to pay a substitute, they concluded to get out of the
country in a body, and stay out until the war was over,
and so came to Boston, and seeing an opportunity to
get a berth with me for five or six months with good
pay, had shipped on the " EUzabeth." Although not
wishing to serve in the army, they were brim fuU of
patriotism, as will be seen later on. Altogether, they
were a fine set of men, sober, industrious, implicitly
obedient to orders, honest; feeling, each one, a respon-
sibihty to make the trading trip a success. Night or day
the^ were always ready for a call, and not a word of
grumbling. The gale moderating, and wind hauling in the right
quarter, the " Elizabeth " soon made Abaco, the most
northern of the Bahama group, and passing Green Turtle
Key and Abaco Light, we shortly sighted Harbor Island.
A fine landmark for the entrance on the east side was
a row of cocoanut palms all inclined one way. A tongue
of land overlapping the entrance to the harbor, it was not
easy to distinguish unless close in, but the trees formed a
capital guide to the entrance. There is another entrance
on the north side through the reef. About all these
islands, like those of the Pacific, are surrounded by a
coral reef, with passages through in various places.
Running down inshore, two of the islanders came off,

244 OCEAN LIFE
one of whom piloted us safely into the harbor, where we
dropped anchor and lay as though in a mill-pond.
The Bahama Islands, on the verge of the belt of trade
winds, have the most delightful climate for a winter
resort, neither too hot, nor too cold.
Nassau, on Providence Island, the capital, has fine
hotel accommodations for the visitor wishing to escape
the rigors of a northern winter, and one of the most
enjoyable trips during his stay is a visit to the outlying
islands and keys, the inhabitants of which are of the most
sociable class, doing everything to make the visitor's
time pass pleasantly. They are mostly colored, with a
large sprinkling of whites.
As the sailing on these trips is all inside the keys and
reefs, the water is smooth and there is no fear of sea
sickness while passing over reefs, which, seen through the
clear water, with their wealth of sponges and sea-fans,
coral, bright-waving marine foliage and myriads of fish
of every hue, form a most interesting study for the
student of life beneath the waves.
Here I was joined by Mr. George Deshon, who had
come out by stearner, and had been waiting several days
for my arrival, and disposing of some of our stock here,
we ran around to a little settlement called the " Current,"
where we made some sales of furniture and provisions,
sailing thence to Governor's Harbor and Rock Sound,
ports of Eleuthera.

CHAPTER XXIII
1864 - 1865
COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS.  SOCIABILITY A PROMOTER
OF TRADE.  EXTRA CARE IN FRUIT TRANSPORTATION.
 FAMOUS BLOCKADE RUNNERS.  END OF THE WAR
A BLOW TO NASSAU
A MONTH, or more, had been occupied in coasting
along the shores of the various islands and keys, stopping
at every little settlement to barter, and we had but half
disposed of our cargo. Sometimes we anchored off the
beach, as at Cat Island, and went ashore to drum up
trade, and having landed a lot of whatever we thought
would be in demand, we held auctions on the beach.
These occasions would be rare fun for the crew, as Green
was a capital auctioneer, and the rest of the boys made it
lively for the colored folks. Frequently, when there had
been a good trade, and the bidding lively, we would
announce a dance in the evening at one of their houses,
for which they were always ready, and Green with his
fiddle and Thomas with the accordion would open the
baU. This got noised around and helped trade amazingly,
the populace being always glad to see us. Mr. Deshon
always enjoyed these occasions, and entered heartUy
into the spirit of them.
Governor's Harbor, on the west side of Eleuthera,
245

246 OCEAN LIFE
the shipping point for pineapples to the English market,
was a town of considerable importance. At this time
there were no steamers engaged in the fruit trade, but a
beautiful class of clipper schooners, Clyde buUt, that
congregated at Governor's Harbor, waiting for their
cargoes of pines. Only the sugar-loaf pines were carried,
the scarlet or Spanish not being so much in favor with
the English people. These pines were carried in the tree
or shrub, and handled with great care; shrub, stalk and
pineapples being shipped as growing. It took a great
deal more room to ship them in this way, but the safe
carriage of the fruit was insured, and the high price paid
for pines in the English market warranted the extra
expense. Green turtle were also carried by these fruiters and
brought a high price. A large corral was kept by the
agent, who bought all that was brought in, paying regular
market rates for them. It was enclosed with stakes that
would hold a great number until time for shipment.
Turtle of other kinds abounded in these waters; among
them the loggerhead, an immense fellow, sometimes
weighing from five hundred to six hundred pounds; also
the hawksbill, a smaller turtle, prized for its shell. Fre
quent excursions were made to the beaches on the ocean
side, on bright moonlight nights, to watch for, and
capture turtle. Lying still and watching, we would see
them emerge from the water and crawl up the beach
above high-water mark, to lay their eggs, to be hatched
out by the sun and the warmth of the sand. When well
up the beach, a rush would be made upon them, and
before they could turn to the water they would be thrown
upon their backs, making their escape impossible, as they
coffid not turn over on land. Some of the big feUows
required the united strength of three or four men to turn

COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 247
them. Great care had to be taken to prevent their getting
headed for the water, in which case it was almost impos
sible to stop them, for if you were in front of them they
would bite most savagely, and in their rear one would be
bhnded by the shower of sand and small pebbles thrown
out by their rear flippers. Their eggs are carefully covered
when they are in the sand, but when the young turtle
hatch out and make for the water, they have numerous
enemies who are on the lookout for them, and between
the birds of the air and the fish in the sea, the turtle
famUy have a very hard time of it. Although there may
be a hundred or more eggs hatched out, not a fifth of the
brood survive. The eggs are round, about half the size
of a hen's egg, yellow in appearance, and soft-shelled.
They are very nice roasted, or made into an omelet. To
find them in the sand, one goes around with a sharp
pointed stick, and when a nest is found by punching,
uncovers and removes the eggs.
Rock Sound is a deep bay on the southern end of
Eleuthera, and a town of the same name lies at the
head of the bay. A quarter of a mile inland is a natural
curiosity called the " Ocean Hole," a perfectly round
basin, having a circumference of about 5,000 feet, with
walls of stone rising from the water perpendicular and
smooth, to a height of 50 feet. There is only one place
where one can descend to the water. It is surrounded
by trees, and is not visible to one approaching it until he
is close to it. In this basin the tide ebbs and flows and
the water is as blue as the ocean water outside the reef,
showing that it must have an ocean outlet. Salt-water
fish are found in it, and in the centre there is apparently
no soundings. Articles that have been thrown in have
been found on the north end of the island, forty-five mUea
distant.

248 OCEAN LIFE
One evening we were about leaving Rock Sound, where
our trade had been very good as well as at Governor's
Harbor, and all hands went ashore. I was settling up
business, intending to saU in the morffing for a little place
called the " Cove." Pulling on board just as a coasting
schooner came to an anchor, we passed her boat with
the crew pulling ashore, and on hailing them we learnt
that she was from Nassau. To our inquiry for news of
the war they replied that " that old scoundrel Lincoln
had been shot."
Ordering the boat's head around for shore again, we
landed with them to get particulars, which we obtained
with so much denunciation of the administration of
our government, — President Lincoln and all officials, —
that the ire of Green and the rest of the crew was roused,
and they responded in a manner that brought on a free-
for-all fight. The chaps fought well, but were no match
for our boys, and in a very short time they received the
pounding of their lives, after which all our men went on
board happy, having in their opiffion aired their patriot
ism, and vindicated the honor of the old flag.
When we arrived at the Cove, Mr. Deshon left for
Nassau to take the steamer for New York. I went down
with him in a small boat, and we had with us the specie
that we had taken on the trip. We arrived just in time
for me to see ffim on board the steamer before she sailed.
Returning to the schooner, I arranged for the sale of
the remaining portion of the cargo, and putting on shore
a part, returned to Governor's Harbor with the balance,
which was landed, and taking on a small load of pines,
we sailed for Boston, where we arrived without mishap,
having been absent three months. The crew having been
paid off, left for home, there being now little danger
from the draft.

COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 249
Mr. Deshon concluding not to make another venture,
I was engaged by Mr. Joseph E. Manning to make one
more trip as supercargo, and was in Nassau in company
with a large number of the most famous blockade runners,
aU engaged in running cotton. This was a money-making
business for those who engaged in it, if they escaped
capture by the blockading fleet. The steamers, designed
especiaUy for speed, long, low, and very sharp, would
come out from England, laden with a cargo destined for
the South but shipped to Nassau, where, on arrival, the
cargo was taken out and then hurriedly put on board
again, when she was ready for her run. If successful, the
captain received $5,000 in gold, and one or more bales of
cotton, and all on board were pecuniarily interested. It
was not, by all accounts, such a difficult matter to get
into port, but the getting out, laden with cotton, was
the problem to be worked out. Frequently, when having
successfuUy run the gauntlet of the blockading fleet off
the port, and thinking they were all clear and safe, they
would find themselves at dayhght close under the guns
of a U. S. gunboat stationed on the offshore blockade.
An amusing incident, as related by Captain WilUam
Swasey of Marblehead, acting master of one of the
gunboats on the outer station, is a case in point.
One morning at daylight a steamer was sighted close
aboard, and being covered by the guns of the gunboat,
it was too late to escape. Heaving her to. Captain Swasey
was ordered on board the blockade runner to bring the
captain to the gunboat. Naturally he was chagrined to
find himself caught in a trap, after supposing himself
past all danger.
Ascending the gangway. Captain Swasey stepped on
board. With an extended hand and in a cheerful,
breezy manner, he greeted the runner's captain, who

250 OCEAN LIFE
stood aft, bidding him good morning, and adding that he
was very glad to see him.
" Are you? " said the captain of the captured vessel.
" Well! It's a d — d sight more that I am to see you,
this morning."
The men were taken out, a prize crew put on board,
and the vessel with her cargo was sent to a northern port.
The prize money from these captures was something
enormous. This same acting master received some ten
thousand doUars as his share in six months' time, whUe
a captain who was formerly my second mate, and who
was in the volunteer naval service, was so fortunate as
to receive as his share from his prize money, upwards of
eighty thousand dollars.
After making a cruise through the islands and returning
to Nassau, we found there the ram " Stonewall Jackson,"
built for the Confederates and named for the Confederate
General Thomas J. Jackson, nicknamed " Stonewall."
It was a most formidable-looking craft, anchored outside
the harbor. She was, however, too late to do any damage,
as but a short time after came the news of the fall of the
Confederacy. The news came like a thunderbolt to
Nassau and its merchants. All were confident the war
would last for a year and perhaps years longer, and
merchants found a ready market at top prices for their
goods. The inhabitants of the Bahamas were literally
rolling in wealth; the labor of the blacks commanding
from three to five dollars an hour on night work, and the
work was going on night and day.
Nassau was the hot-bed of secession, and it was ex
tremely unhealthy to show sympathy for the North
within its borders. Orders were sent to England, limits
taken off, and every warehouse was stuffed with goods,
when the news came that the war was over!

COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 251
Prices on everything dropped far below the zero mark.
Every house, except two, went under, whUe goods of
all descriptions were rushed out among the islands, to
be sold at any price that could be obtained. Fine boots
that were formerly sold at ten or twelve dollars a pair,
were let go at fifty cents, and other things in hke pro
portion. It was a great blow to Nassau, and one
from which it took a long time to recover.
My invoice having been disposed of before the crash
came, I chartered the schooner to a Nassau house, one
of the two that withstood the shock, to load oranges at
Andros Island for New York, and sending the captain
off, I remained to settle up some business before taking the
steamer for New York. Returning to Harbor Island, I
remained there two weeks, when a schooner arrived with
a delegation on board, including the candidates for
election to the House of Assembly at Nassau. They were
on a tour of the islands, holding meetings at all the
principal points, canvassing for votes, and were a jolly lot.
I had business at Green Turtle Key, and on my men-
tioffing it to the captain of the schooner, whom I knew
very well, he gave me a most cordial invitation to join
the party on board and make the trip with them. This
invitation I was not slow to accept, as I had no way
of getting over except by chartering a small craft to take
me across, and that was expensive.
The general election for the members of the " As
sembly," — the legislative body in the Bahamas, which
are governed by Great Britain, — was a great affair,
participated in by every voter in the group; as much,
or more, interest and party spirit being shown, as in our
presidential election at home. Although no salary is
attached to the office, it is deemed the highest honor to
serve as a member of the " House " and be able to place

252 OCEAN LIFE
" M. A." after the incumbent's name, while large sums,
as with us, are expended in campaign expenses, and to
influence votes. Our party, composed of gentlemen
upon making whose acquaintance I found to be a most
congemal set, was well supplied with spirited arguments,
which, with the eatables, were carefully stowed in the
schooner's hold, to be brought forth as occasion demanded,
and the candidate making the best showing in this line
and with good oratorical powers, was the one who generally
won the prize.
Our first stop, after leaving Harbor Island, was at
Cherry Harbor, a small settlement just inside the keys
on the island of Abaco. Here we found our rival can
didate, who was having things all his own way. He had
addressed his constituents, sent out his henchmen,
counted noses, and was so firm in the belief that he would
be elected the following day at Cherry Harbor, that he
had ordered a large pig killed to make a big pork pie or
stew for the voters.
No sooner was our anchor dropped than a dozen or
more colored gentlemen boarded us, knowing we had
on board the rival candidate. They were received with
open arms and told us about all the proceedings on
shore, of the pig being killed and so forth. They were
talked to, the spirited arguments were brought forth,
also the eatables, and in an hour they went ashore pledged
to our party and to influence all their friends; in short,
to invite the whole population to come on board and
partake of the good things, after which the Hon. Mr.
So and So, the candidate, and other distinguished guests,
would address the citizens of Cherry Harbor on the issues
at stake, and the welfare and prosperity of the Bahama
Islands; also announcing that a dance would be held
after the speaking, to which all were invited, and refresh-

COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS 253
ments, with light wines for the ladies, would be provided
through the hberality and courtesy of the Hon. Mr.
So and So, our distinguished candidate.
The election came off, and it is needless to say our
candidate was elected by a rousing majority. Our rival,
scenting defeat, sent out word the following morning
not to kill the pig, but he was assured it was not only
killed but eaten!
Leaving Cherry Harbor for Green Turtle Key and
passing Great Harbor until our return, we arrived in
the eveffing, at once going ashore, where our constituents
were awaiting us. Our advance agents reported every
thing in good form and victory certain.
Green Turtle Key, lying northeast of Abaco is a thriving
settlement, having a mixed population of whites and
colored about equally divided. They live by fishing,
orange culture, and the cultivation of the land for raising
their own vegetables, wrecking, or any employment that
offers. They are a most hospitable class, their doors
always open to strangers.
The foUowing day, being election, was observed as a
holiday. Turtle was served up, in every style, to the
voters, and, in fact, to any one who would partake.
Speeches were made, and after the votes were counted,
and it was announced that our candidate was the one
elected, a general jollification was held, which lasted into
the early morning hours.
Continuing on to Great Harbor, I there took leave
of my hospitable host, I wishing to go to Nassau, while
they were bound for Long Island and Rum Key. A
small craft, bound over, suiting my convenience, I reached
Nassau safely, in time for the New York steamer, and
two days later, bidding adieu to the Bahamas, a pleasant
run of four days brought us to the pier in North River.

CHAPTER XXIV
1866 - 1867
THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE."  WAR SCENES AT RICHMOND
AND PETERSBURG. — RIVER GIRONDE AND BORDEAUX. —
HAPPY OCEAN LIFE IN OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS
The war had closed, but all business was in a most
unsettled state. Wounded and disabled troops were
constantly returning to the headquarters of the several
States to be mustered out, and although there was joy
at the ending of the war and the preservation of the
Union, sad scenes were daily witnessed. Many house
holds were in sorrow, throughout the land, mourning
for fathers, husbands and sons, who had gone forth to
battle, laying down their lives for their country and
to preserve the Union and the honor of the flag.
The next eight months I spent on shore, constantly
on the watch for a vessel I could buy into that would
be suitable. I had contracted a second marriage, and
intended to take my wife with me on the voyage, and
getting the refusal of a new barque of eight hundred
tons, then on her first voyage from Havana to New York,
to command if satisfactory, I awaited her arrival at the
latter port with some degree of impatience.
Upon her arrival I inspected her, and at once closed
the purchase and took charge. The " Keystone " was a
fine vessel, having good carrying capacity. She was
264

THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 255
fairly sharp, had fine sailing qualities and nice accom
modations, consisting of a roomy main cabin with a
cozy after, or ladies' cabin; just the craft in which to
make a lady comfortable, and a captain taking his wife
to sea with him would have a very pleasant home.
I obtained a charter to load tobacco at City Point,
Va., for Bordeaux, and the barque was fitted out for
six months, expecting to return to New York from
Europe. My first officer, Mr. Charles B. Nelson, was a stranger
to me, but highly recommended, while my second officer,
Mr. Edwin H. Lovett, had formerly served with me in
the same position on the ship " J. P. Whitney."
I returned to Boston for my wife and to settle a few
business matters, and took the train back to New York,
arriving at 10 p. m. and putting up at a hotel until ready
for sea. My wife's brother accompanied us, to spend a
few days with his sister and see her off. This made it
very pleasant, for he could escort her around shopping
or sightseeing, while I was busy, attending to the busi
ness of the barque.
When everything was in readiness for sailing, we
embarked. Brother George going down the bay with us
to return on. the towboat from Sandy Hook.
Hauling into the stream, the tug came alongside, and
making fast, we proceeded down the harbor, bidding
good-by to New York on as bright and beautiful a July
morffing as one could ever witness, little thinking that
three years would roll around, and great changes occur,
ere we again saw it.
Arriving at Sandy Hook, sail was made, after which
George took a final leave of his sister and went on board
the tug; fasts were cast off, and with a " good-by and
pleasant voyage " from the towboat captain, we parted

256 OCEAN LIFE
company, the tug returning to New York, while the
" Keystone " continued her voyage south.
Looking over our crew to see who we had on board,
the result was entirely satisfactory. The crew were mostly
Swedes and Norwegians, with a Finn and two Germans,
all able-bodied men, and good sailors, as afterwards
proved; a carpenter, my old Chinese steward that I
was fortunate enough to run across in New York, a Malay
cook, Mrs. Whidden and myself, made up the barque's
complement of sixteen, all told.
A quick run brought us to Fortress Monroe, where,
taking a pilot, we sailed up the James River to City Point,
and made fast to the wharf to await our cargo of tobacco,
which was to be sent down from Richmond in lighters.
The trip up the river was of more than usual interest.
It was so soon after the close of the war, that almost
every foot of ground and point of land had a history,
and the pilot pointed out to us where some of the most
thrilling scenes were enacted.
As it would be a week before our cargo would begin
to arrive, we improved the time by visiting Richmond,
and for a few days made our headquarters at the Spots-
wood Hotel. Although the war was ended, the old
spirit of secession was still strong in the hearts of the
South. In Richmond, the capital of the Confederacy, the
feeling of rancor and bitterness towards the North was
still apparent, and cropped out when conversing with
the citizens, the old residents particularly, and it was
not to be wondered at; the wound was so recent, that
any reference to the struggle between the North and South
was sure to bring out an expression of opinion favorable
to the latter. For this reason, we carefully avoided the
subject of the war, unless sure of our ground; being
desirous of information, we did not wish to antagonize

THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 257
any one. Returning to City Point, we took the train for
Petersburg, and visited the battlefields, in front of the
town, where occurred some of the hardest fighting of
the war; the crater, of the mine designed by the Uffion
forces to undermine a Confederate fort, and the blowing
up of the same, July 30, 1864; the rifle pits and trenches
where the sharpshooters of both armies lay entrenched
almost within a stone's throw of one another, each seeking
to pick off his opponent if he exposed himself to fire;
each and every spot being pointed out by our guide,
who was an ex-Confederate soldier, and an. active partici
pant in the struggle before Petersburg.
Relics of the fight were to be picked up on every side, —
bullets, broken gun-stocks and ramrods, army buttons, —
and we could imagine the tide of battle that surged
around this spot, which now the sun shone down upon
so peacefully and bright, but the most vivid imagining
would fall far short of the reality.
In the evening, at the hotel we listened to thriUing
stories of the fighting before Petersburg " in the days
that tried men's souls," and taking our train the following
morffing for City Point, we bade adieu to these historic
scenes, feeling well repaid for our visit.
We made some very pleasant acquaintances at City
Point, and our time passed quickly in a round of visiting
and sightseeing, until, our lading completed, we bade
good-by to our shore friends, and taking a pilot on board,
proceeded down river in tow of a tugboat. Arriving at
Fortress Monroe, we came to anchor for the night, and
early next morffing, got under way, and proceeded to
sea. A heavy swell from the south'ard and a fall in the
barometer indicated a blow from that quarter, but the
wind being fair, strong west, the " Keystone " was kept

258 OCEAN LIFE
due east to cross the Gulf Stream, and if the storm proved
to be a hurricane, as I suspected by the great swell, I
expected to escape it, or the worst part of it, by pushing
her across its path before it reached our latitude. This
was most fortunate, for, as we learned later, a furious
hurricane, that followed the course of the Gulf Stream,
swept across our wake twelve to fifteen hours after we
had passed, doing immense damage to shipping caught
in its path, and along the coast; while we carried our
fair wind and smooth sea the entire passage to the mouth
of the River Gironde, not even having occasion to hand
a royal, and making the run in twenty-one days from
Hampton Roads.
This was my wife's first ocean experience, barring the
short run from New York to City Point, and there was
not a day's sickness to mar her pleasure, and no rough
weather. We entered the river, and having passed the high
lighthouse of Cordouan, a pilot came aboard, and we
proceeded up-stream and taking a tug a little below the
city of Bordeaux, and towing past the tiers of shipping,
the " Keystone " was moored but a short distance from
the banks that rise at quite a steep incline from the
water. I found, on calling upon my consignees, that tobacco
cargoes were discharged singly, and we would have to
await our turn, although we were ready for discharging.
There were two ships ahead of us. We had thirty-five
lay days and were obliged to wait. This was bad, but
there was no help for it.
The city of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Gironde
River, is the centre of the wine export trade. Many
American vessels were in port, and quite a number of
captains had their wives or families with them, among

QUAYS AND RIVER FRONTAGE, BORDE.AUX

QUAI LOUIS XVIII AND LIGHT - TOAA'ERS, RIVER GIRONDE,
BORDEAUX

THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 259
whom there was frequent visiting, dinner parties, rides,
shopping and shore excursions, aU of which served to
pass the time in a most enjoyable manner, making it
very pleasant for the ladies.
The city is well laid out, the streets are broad and
clean, there are handsome public squares with fountains,
and many beautiful public buUdings.
Among the many places of interest which we visited
was the Basihque St. Andre (Cathedral of St. Andrew),
a very ancient buUding erected more than twelve hun
dred years ago. It is very quaint and massive, and of
great interest to the student of architecture. Some
years back, in excavating for repairs, the workmen
had discovered and unearthed between two hundred
and three hundred bodies that had been interred within
its walls. There was no record of them, or how long
they had been buried, but it must have been centuries;
yet there was little evidence of decay, save that the
skin was dark and resembled leather. They had long
dark hair, and the features of some were almost perfect.
We were told that their preservation was owing to the
peculiar nature of the earth in which they were buried.
They were ranged, standing with no glass between them
and the observer, around a large room, or crypt, under
one corner of the edifice, and were objects of great curiosity
to all visitors.
The cathedral was open at all hours, and service almost
constantly going on.
Notre Dame was another fine old church, — or new
beside St. Andre, being but three hundred years old.
This was the English church, where services were held
daily. At the upper end of the city are beautiful gardens,
facing the river and the Quai Loffis XVIII. On each

260 OCEAN LIFE
side of the entrance stand two high hght-towers, which
act as a river guide at mght. These gardens are great
pleasure resorts. Pubhc and private fairs and f^tes are
held there, and games of all kinds. In company with
others we visited them many times, always finding
something interesting and amusing.
Our visits to the great canning establishments, where
fish, flesh and fowl, fruits, and every kind of vegetable,
were put up in cans for export to every part of the world,
were most interesting and instructive. The great kitchens
where everything was prepared, the immense caldrons and
cooking apparatus, the canning and sealing department,
and great storehouses, all came under our inspection,
and throughout the whole great establishment everything
was cleanhness itself, — not a speck of dirt or dust to be
seen, — and in after days we relished our stock of canned
goods much more from having witnessed the perfect
modus operandi.
We chartered the " Keystone " for Buenos Ayres, to
load wines and liquors, and having got rid of our tobacco,
we commenced our lading, and in sixty-five days from
entering the port of Bordeaux were again ready for
sea. All stores on board, taking a river pilot, we proceeded
down river in tow of a tug, in company with the barque
" White Cloud," Captain Ames, who was bound for
New Orleans. Discharging our pilot at Pauillac, all
sail was made, and with a fine rattling breeze, we were
soon clear of the Bay of Biscay, and heading south for
the trade winds; obtaining a fine view of Madeira in
passing, also the Peak of Teneriffe (Canary Islands),
towering among the clouds. The wind gradually hauUng
to the east'ard, the trade clouds began to appear hanging
around the horizon, with shoals of flying-fish, and fields of

THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE" 261
gffifweed, in that soft, balmy atmosphere inseparable from
the region of the trade winds. Night after night we
remained on deck until nearly the close of the first watch,
admiring the glory of the heavens spangled with stars,
and resplendent with the consteUations of our northern
hemisphere, watching them each ffight sink lower and
lower in the northern quarter, while in the south new
ones took their places.
Our crew were quite musical, and in addition to fine
voices, a number of them were possessed of several
instruments, including a violin, flute, an accordion and
a cornet, their owners being good performers on each.
The second dog-watch, in good weather, was generally
devoted to a concert forward, both vocal and instrumental,
and frequently it would be two bells (9 p. m.) before they
would go below. Their selections were good, and we
thoroughly enjoyed their music.
My wife, to whom all this was new, was in love with
the sea, and up to the present time she had not seen a
gale or experienced any rough weather. While at Bor
deaux I had the opportunity of buying a fine upright
piano at a very low figure. Mrs. Whidden being a good
performer, I thought it would serve to while away many
hours that otherwise might be weary for her, and I never
regretted the purchase. In the roomy after, or ladies',
cabin there was ample space for it, and it made our quar
ters decidedly homelike. A good stock of sheet music,
in addition to all the popular airs of the day, with her
hymns and church music, completed the outfit. The
purchase of this piano was a good investment aside from
the pleasure derived from it, as will be seen later.
The work of the barque went smoothly on, the crew
being most efficient, quick to obey orders, quiet and
respectful, while the officers were all that could be

262 OCEAN LIFE
desired. There was no noise, or profamty, but a firm,
steady course of discipline, that invariably commanded
respect. Meanwhile, we were rapidly approaching the
equator.

CHAPTER XXV
1867 - 1868
FOUR MONTHS AT FEVER - STRICKEN BUipSTOS AYRES. —
THREE HUNDRED SAIL IN PORT.  THE BOTANICAL GAR
DENS OF RIO JANEIRO.  A WEIRD NIGHT AT BOTOFOGO
Crossing the parallel of 6° north, the wind growing
lighter, we finally took leave of the northeast trade winds
ere we had made a further degree of southing; ending
them with a squall of wind and rain accompanied by
heavy thunder and vivid lightmng, succeeded by calms
and sunshine varied by squalls of wind and torrential
rains which continued for nearly a week. In latitude
1° north, we caught the welcome southeast trades, and,
with a taut bowline crossed the line, and sighting Fer
nando Norohna, the " Keystone " ran past Pernambueo,
Bahia and the Abrolhos Islands, and Cape Frio, and as
we drew south, the wind gradually hauled to the west'ard
by the northern quarter. Beautiful weather still con
tinued, the ffights glorious with the constellations of the
southern heavens; among many others nightly visible
in their beauty the " MageUan clouds " and " Southem
Cross." Mooffiight on the water. Can anything be more
beautiful than a ship on the water at night, under the soft
light of a full moon, in the region of the trade winds?
There is a fine, steady breeze filling every sail, with the
263

264 OCEAN LIFE
canvas asleep and showing snow-white in its beams,
each saU and spar and rope standing out in bold relief,
and while a portion of the ship hidden from its rays
makes of the whole a perfect picture of lights and shadows,
the ship glides noiselessly on; no sound, save the striking
of the bell that tells the passing hours of the night, and
an occasional order from the officer of the deck.
Many such nights we remained on deck till past the
midnight hour when the scene was too beautifffi for us
to leave and go below.
" Land ho! " rang out on the morffing of the forty-
eighth day from Bordeaux, and Cape St. Mary, the
northern cape to the entrance of the Rio de la Plata,
could in a short time be plaiffiy seen from the deck.
Getting chain cables up and anchors on the bow, we
stood in for Lobos Island, passed it and dropping anchor
off the point of Montevideo, set a signal for a river
pilot to take us up the river to Buenos Ayres, and early
next morning one came one board, bringing a quarter of
fresh beef and some vegetables, which were very accept
able after our voyage, but at the same time he was the
bearer of news not of a cheerful nature.
Cholera and yeUow fever were raging at Buenos Ayres,
hundreds dying daily, with from three hundred to four
hundred vessels in port. It was almost impossible to get
labor or lighters, and some of them had been there between
two and three months before breaking bulk. As our
cargo was one that could only go in the Custom House
deposits, the outlook for getting away in quick time was
not brilliant.
For myself I had no fear; never having been attacked
by epidemics, I considered myself immune, but I trembled
for my wife, and Helen's death from cholera in Shanghai
came vividly before me, but there was nothing to do but

FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 265
face the music. I did not let her know my fears, but
made Ught of it as much as possible.
We anchored in the outer roadstead, some ten miles
from the city, among a large fleet of shipping, but so far
from land that offiy the spires of the city churches could
be seen through the glass from the barque's deck, and it
seemed, except for the turbid water and the adjacent
shipping, hke being at sea.
When I went ashore to see my consignees, I found the
chances of discharging at an early day were shght indeed.
I also learned that the victims of cholera were largely
among the natives and Italian population, no American
captains or their famihes having been taken down. Care
in diet and mode of living seemed to have a great deal
to do with the preservation of health. The shipping had
been very free from cholera or fever, so far.
I engaged rooms and board at my old quarters, Mrs.
Bradley's, and went back on board the barque, but the
next morning we took up our quarters on terra firma.
A number of captains' wives were guests of Mrs. Bradley,
who, with her three daughters, made the house very
pleasant and homelike; a good piano with the girls'
fine voices added much to the pleasure of our stay, and
a jolly company of captains kept all thought of cholera
and yellow fever from our minds. If any one gave it a
thought, he never expressed it. There was, it is true,
not so much shopping and visiting, or riding into the
country, as there otherwise would have been, but the
ladies were not confined indoors, our house having two
large patios, or enclosures, into which the doors of each
room opened; so the guests only had to step from their
rooms into the open air of the patio. Occasional visits
on shipboard, for a few days or a week, helped to break
the monotony.

266 OCEAN LIFE
Sixty days passed before we could commence the
discharging of our cargo, and it was four months from our
arrival ere the last cask was taken on shore, it having
been impossible to obtain hghters. AU our lay days were
used up, and we were a long time on demurrage, but it
was not enough to pay for the delay.
But all things have an end, and with thankful hearts
that no one had been stricken down with cholera or fever,
we hove up our anchors one morffing, and said good-by
to Buenos Ayres with no regrets, and with a fair wind
took our departure for Rio Janeiro in search of a freight.
Landing our pilot at Montevideo, familiarly called
the " Mount," the " Keystone " proceeded to sea, and
never did blue water and ocean breezes seem so grateful
as after our four months' stay in fever-stricken Buenos
Ayres. Brisk southerly winds soon brought us in sight of the
high land at the entrance to Rio, with nothing of note
having occurred after leaving the Mount.
Rio Janeiro was familiar to me, but to my wife scenery
of this kind was a new experience. The peaks of the
mountains of Gabia and Corcovada and Sugar Loaf Hill,
forming the contour of an immense man lying on his
back, was a wonder to her, and as we drew in with the
land, passing the islands of Pai and Mai, the great bay
opening before us, entering the narrow passage between
the high bluff on the right where the guns of Fort Santa
Cruz frowned down upon us, and the Sugar Loaf Hill
with its high conical peak on the left, the bright sparkling
waters of the great bay extending inland sixteen miles,
dotted with beautiful islands and covering upwards of
fifty square miles of anchorage, her delight was un
bounded. As we sailed on, the entrance to Botofogo Bay, extend-

EIO DE JANEIRO, ENTRANCE TO BAY. GLORIA HILL AND SUGAR LOAF

FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 267
ing inland back of the Sugar Loaf, and Gloria Hill, with
its lovely dwellings and white church where the Emperor
Dom Pedro attended divine service with his family, the
ranges of hiUs and mountains in the background, all
clothed in luxuriant tropical foliage, brought forth ex
clamations of rapture, appearing to her, as one writer
declares, " like entering the gate of a tropical paradise."
We came to anchor off the city below Cobras Island,
and after the doctor's visit, obtained permission to go
ashore, and on landing I met my old broker, Mr.
Machado, who offered me a charter to go to Bahia to
load sugar for Liverpool, England. The rate was fair,
the offiy objection being in the number of lay days
wanted by the charterers, but after dickering awhile I got
them reduced to two-thirds the number, when I accepted
and signed the charter-party.
Our stay now being hmited, we wished to take in all
we could in the short time allotted to us.
We were not long in noting that different streets were
devoted to each line of goods; for instance, in the Rue de
Ouvidor (Gold Street) one finds no class of goods but
jewelry, so it was not hard to find when we desired to
visit the jewelers' establishments, and the same with
those of the dealers in millinery and dry goods.
After a short season of shopping and admiring the
many beautiful things to be seen, we drove to the Botan
ical Gardens, justly famed throughout the world, a lovely
feature of these gardens being a magnificent straight
avenue of majestic palms. The road to this botanical
park is a continuous garden in itself, abounding in every
variety of tropical fruit, and flowers of rare beauty which
greet the eye on every side and fill the air with a delicious
fragrance. Trees of every description are here seen in
all their beauty, while the culture of the tea plant is an

268 OCEAN LIFE
attraction. One could remain here months, and then not
tire of the beauty of these gardens.
Mount Corcovada, three thousand feet in height,
towers above this lovely park; its copious springs of
clear water, that form the principal supply of the city,
being conveyed to the numerous reservoirs and fountains
by means of an aqueduct twelve mUes long, built more
than a century ago, which crosses a valley ffinety feet
deep on two great tiers of arches.
In the afternoon we drove to Botofogo, a summer
resort of the wealthy class during the heated term, who
drive out from the city each afternoon and return in
the morning to attend to business. An ideal spot is
Botofogo. Its shores form a beautiful crescent-shaped
bay of the waters that flow in from the sea back of the
Sugar Loaf Mountain, pure, bright, and sparkling as
crystal. Hard, smooth beaches, with light yellow sand, afford
incomparable bathing facUities, and around this bay a
smooth, broad road stretches away for miles, making a
fine driveway, where may be seen every afternoon, as
the sun sinks behind the peaks of Gabia and Corcovada,
the elegant equipages of the 61ite of the capital, filled
with gay, laughing groups of ladies and gentlemen, out
for their evening drive. The rich dresses and bright
colors of the ladies, blending with the plain conven
tional black of their male companions, make a pretty
picture. Surrounding the bay on the hillsides stand beautiful
cottages, the summer homes of Rio's prosperous citizens,
whUe interspersed, rising from their own spacious grounds
amid towering palms, stately mangoes, and a wealth of
flowers, are the magnificent hotels, one of which was tha
scene of a ludicrous incident, heartily laughed at after-

FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 269
wards, but at the time fraught with terror to Mrs.
Wffidden. These hotels were always well filled with guests both
transient and permanent.
We engaged a room for a night without going to it,
and strolled out sightseeing.
As the sun sank, the short twUight deepened into
night, the stars appeared, lights twinkled from the
cottages, the evening breeze swept, cool, across the
bay, while soft, delicious music, low and sweet, from the
band at one of the hotels, was wafted to our ears, inducing
a dreamy, restful feeling. From a cottage on the hill
we listened to sweet voices mingling in a love song,
accompanied by the music of harp or guitar. Numerous
pleasure yachts were filled with a gay throng enjoying
an evening on the water; their songs and laughter mingled
with strains of music could be distinctly heard, borne
on the evening breeze. From behind the crest of Sugar
Loaf the moon appeared, flooding the entire bay with
a sheen of silver, completing a picture of exquisite beauty.
As the evening waned we sought our hotel, tired, but
having passed a most enjoyable day, and after partaking
of a light supper, we were shown to our apartment.
The sleeping-rooms, containing four-poster beds with
enormous canopies overhead, were on each side of the
entrance to a large, roomy sitting-room at the end of a
long, gloomy hall or passage at the rear end of the house,
and evidently little used. Three windows in the sitting-
room, extending nearly to the floor on one side, looked out
upon the grounds. Palms, and other trees came close
to the windows, their branches brushing the screens
as they waved in the night air. A massive, round
mahogany table occupied the centre of the room, above
which hung the gas chandelier. Dark mahogany and

270 OCEAN LIFE
ebony furniture, with an uncarpeted floor nearly black,
and highly pohshed, gave to the surroundings a gloomy,
sombre appearance, — which was not improved by
lighting up, the gas being so poor as only to render the
darkness more visible, — and an uncanny look to the
room, producing a most depressing effect, equal to a
nightmare, on the feelings of a nervous person. Although
not inclined to nervousness myself, my wife was, to the
extreme. A shght alarm would cause her to jump and
scream, while voices at night, unaccounted for, would
keep her awake imagining things until she had worked
herself into a state of absolute terror.
With nothing to read, and not caring to attempt
writing in the poor light, we sat talking of what we had
seen during the day, but I could see my wife took little
interest in the conversation, her eye wandering to the
dark recesses of the room and starting at the grazing of
the screens by the branches of the trees, until finding it
was becoming irksome, we gave it up and retired.
Being very tired, I quickly dropped into a doze, but
not for long. I felt a slight shake and a low whisper in
my ear:
" There's some one in the room, John. Don't you hear
them? "
Raising my head, I listened. Yes. In a moment I
heard a noise as of some one moving lightly across the
floor. The fact of having a considerable sum of money
with me, which I had been too late to deposit, perhaps
made me more nervous. Whispering to my wife to keep
quiet, and reaching for a revolver under my pUlow, I
struck a light, and walked softly into the large room.
All was quiet. No appearance of any intruder; the noise
having ceased with the scratching of the match. Satisfy
ing myself that there was no cause for alarm, I assured

FEVER - STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES 271
my wife that her fears were groundless, and sank into an
uneasy slumber, offiy to be awakened by a pinch and a
tremulous whisper:
" There's certaiffiy some one in that room, John. I
can hear them plaiffiy."
Again I listened. Yes, I could plainly hear some one
creeping across the room, and a rustling noise as though
the windows were being tampered with, — which, by the
way, were all open.
Again, pistol in one hand, and a match in the other,
I crept to the chandelier and turned on the hght, at the
same time glancing keenly around the room. StUl there
was nothing disturbed; the noise had ceased, and for
this I coffid not account. Examimng the windows, also
the other sleeping-room carefully, and finding all right,
I began to wonder, although not a believer in ghosts or
the supernatural, if the chamber was haunted. Leaving
the gas burffing at my wife's suggestion, I lay awake
awhile, and hearing nothing further, was just losing myself,
when a horrified whisper in my ear brought my eyes again
wide open.
" Look overhead at the canopy. Isn't it much lower? "
I knew this was the echo of one of the tales of child
hood's days about some one being smothered in a tavern
by having the canopy lowered upon him while he slept,
but seeing my poor wife was almost wild with nervous
fright, I reasoned with her that there was no occasion
for her nervousness, and having as I thought calmed her,
dropped again into slumber, when a hand was placed over
my mouth and a hoarse whisper sounded in my ear:
" Look at the light. It is being lowered; hear the
creeping! "
Yes, it was so, and nearly out. I dashed into the
outer room, nearly treading on a huge rat that scurried

272 OCEAN LIFE
across the floor. All was qffiet, and lighting a candle
and looking at my watch, I found it was just one o'clock.
Suddenly the whole situation dawned upon me. There
had been a miffisterial dinner at the hotel that ffight, and
everybody was up very late. This I had known, but
had forgotten, and being in a remote part of the house,
had heard nothing of it. The gas was just being turned
off at the meter for the ffight. The remains of our luncheon
on the table was an attraction for the rats and mice,
whUe the noises were occasioned by their scampering over
the pohshed floor. I explained all, and laughed it off,
or tried to, but the tension had been too great; no more
sleep visited her eyes and she arose with the first peep of
day. Coming from my room an hour later, I found her at
the window drinking in the pure morffing air.
The room presented a different appearance in the
morning light from that formed in the darkness by her
heated imagination, being a large, cool apartment with
a most beautiful outlook.
A morning stroU, in the pure, bracing atmosphere by
the bay, after our coffee, and a good breakfast at the
hotel, served to dissipate the remembrance of the previous
ffight, and we both thoroughly enjoyed our drive back
to Rio.

CHAPTER XXVI
1868
BAHIA.  OUR LADY OF BOM FIM.  DINNER PARTIES ON
SHIPBOARD.  CAPE CLEAR LIGHT.  LIVERPOOL
After clearing at the Custom House, and a last shop
ping tour, we said good-by to our broker Machado, who
kindly presented my wife, as a souvenir of her visit to
Rio, a fine large book of photographic views in and about
the city; a present she appreciated very highly, and
from which a number of pictures are taken to iUustrate
this volume.
Early the following morning we went on board and
took our departure in tow of a tug. Outside the islands
sail was made, fasts cast off, and we were on our way
to Bahia. Sighting the light at the entrance of the bay,
on the morning of the sixth day out, we soon let go the
anchor in front of the city. The harbor looked almost
deserted, there were so few saU in port, viz., two English
ships, three barques, an American brigantine, six or
eight coasting schooners and two steamers.
Bahia, the second city in size in Brazil, has a popffiation
of about one hundred and seventy thousand. The harbor
is spacious, the bay extending iffiand six or seven miles.
Its industries are represented by several manufactories
and a shipyard. Its chief exports are cotton, tobacco,
and sugar. It is divided into two districts, called the
273

274 OCEAN LIPE
upper and the lower town. The upper is the residential
district, from which there is a fine view of the shipping
and bay. Here is located the beautiful English church
and cemetery, the latter laid out with great taste in
spacious avenues, grand trees, almost every kind of
flowering shrub, and a wealth of flowers, which greet the
eye at every turn. The residences of Bahia's well-to-do
citizens are marvels of comfort and elegance, well adapted
to the climate, which is, at times, very hot. The streets
leading to the upper town are very steep and winding,
and, being smooth concrete, are very difficult to chmb for
those not accustomed to them, but the natives do not
seem to mind. It is customary to ride up or down, or
rather to be carried in caderas or sedan-chairs, borne on
the shoffiders of two or four porters, as the weight may be.
It is certainly a much more comfortable mode of transit,
especially for ladies, than attempting to risk a tumble by
walking. The lower town at the foot of the high hUls is devoted
tp the business interests.
With the exception of a visit to the cozy home of
Mr. Rogers, our ship-chandler, who with his charming
daughter entertained us, we stayed on board ship whUe
in port, where it was more comfortable.
On shore the heat was excessive. During our stay
with Mr. Rogers, our host and I daily went down town
to attend to business, whUe my wife was shown all the
places of interest in the upper town, including drives to
the English cemetery and out in the country, — the
churches, beautiful residences, parks, etc.
At the expiration of a week, we bade adieu to our kind
host and hostess, extending to them a cordial invitation
to dine with us on board the " Keystone," — an invitation
which was as heartUy accepted, and one of the most

BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 275
pleasant occasions whUe in port was that of the visit to
our cozy quarters on the barque of Mr. Rogers and his
daughter. At the head of the bay stands the noted church of Our
Lady of Bom Fim, very old, and held in great veneration.
It was said to be a perfect museum in the number and
diversity of the offerings that had been made to Our
Lady on account of miraculous cures from all sorts of
diseases, wonderfffi escapes from storms and shipwreck
at sea and dangers of every kind, all attributed to the
intercession of Our Good Lady at just the right moment.
Hearing so much regarding the phenomenon naturally
increased our desire to become further acquainted with
it, and my wife and another lady, the wife of the captain
of an English barque, becoming interested, an excursion
was planned to make it a visit by water, using the ship's
boats, which were provided with awnings as a protection
from the sun's rays. Anticipating an all day's stay, we
had liberal luncheons put up for a party of seven in
addition to our boats' crews, and set out quite early to
avoid the heat as much as possible, with two boats,
having on board: Captain Stone of the English barque,
his wife and two children. Captain Hopkins of the brig
" Trial," Mrs. Whidden and myself.
A pffil of six miles brought us to a shingly beach
but a short distance from the church, which stood on a
point of land which afforded a fine view down the bay.
We walked up from the landing.
At the entrance an old monk accosted us, and on
learning our errand, called another to escort us and show
us over the church and all contained therein. It was
not a pretentious edifice, being very plain both outside
and in, although substantially built of stone. A monastery
adjoined, and services were continually going on. The

276 OCEAN LIFE
most interesting thing was the quaint character and
number of the offerings presented to Our Lady.
Accompanjang each gift was an accurate, written
account of the circumstances and conditions attending
it. This was in fulffilment of a vow made at the time of
sickness or danger.
In addition to jewelry of all kinds, testifjdng to the
gratitude of the givers, there were crutches without
number, and the mainsail of a brig. The account stated
that it belonged to a vessel that in a great storm at sea
was in imminent danger, and the crew made a solemn
vow to dedicate the mainsail of the brig to Our Lady of
Bom Fim, if she would intercede and save them. They
were saved, and on their arrival in port, in fulfiUment
of their vow they marched in solemn procession to the
church, carrjdng the mainsaU with them. There it hung,
conspicuous among the many other offerings of every
kind and description: children's toys, clothing, and
playthings from mothers, while in the rightly named
" Chamber of Horrors " were models of limbs in every
stage of different diseases that " flesh is heir to," from
those who had been cured, with a full account of the
circumstances. The monks were very kind and courteous in showing
and explaining to us everything that was interesting,
and having seen all we cared to in a stay of between two
and three hours, we bade them adieu, and sitting under
the shade of a large spreading tree at some little distance
from the church, we enjoyed our luncheon; after whieh
we took up our march to the boats, and, finding the men
awaiting our coming, embarked on our return trip.
The boats' crews leisurely pulled down the bay; the
cool breeze swept across the water, and we watched the
sun sink in its western quarter, and saw the shadows

EIO DE JANEIRO. CATHEDRAL AND PALACE SQUARE

BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 277
deepen and the stars appear, ere we reached home, well
pleased with our outing to the church of Our Lady of
Bom Fim.
At Bahia, also, there was great delay in loading.
Uncertain whether it should be cotton or sugar, my
consignees took advantage of my lay days to obtain
advices, and every one was used up ere our lading was
completed, and I congratulated myself that I had insisted
on a third being abated from the charter-party. As it
was, there was no use fretting, other vessels being delayed
in like manner, and we tried to take it phUosophically.
In the circle of acquaintances we had formed, social
gatherings were frequent, and dinner parties were given
by one and another captain to the others and their families.
In connection with one of these a very funny incident
occurred one day on board the American brig.
Captain Hopkins — whose cabin was small, though
his heart was as large as any one's — resolved, not
withstanding his limited quarters, to give a dinner party
on board the " Trial," in acknowledgment of his numerous
invitations. The brig, though having small accommodations below,
had ample room on top of the cabin, the deck extending
from side to side, with railings and cockpit aft, into which
the after-cabin gangway opened; the slide of said com-
paffionway being level with the housetop on deck. On
the top of the cabin, under the awnings, he would set his
tables, with ample space to accommodate all his guests.
This settled, the Captain sent out his invitations and
made preparations for a spread. He was a general
favorite, well along in years, being upwards of sixty, —
a small man, having a quaint, seamed, whiskerless face,
hair — well, here was the captain's trouble; nothing
so annoyed him as the thought of baldness. What hair

278 OCEAN LIFE
he had was thin and of a grayish color, that which the
Englishman designated as " mouldy." He had used aU
sorts of hair tonics, all to no purpose, but was now on a
new tack. Some one had told him kerosene oil, well
rubbed in, was the best thing for the hair, and woffid
cause a healthy growth when everything else failed.
He had firm faith in this, and applied it liberally several
times a day, going around with his head gUsteffing, and
an odor distUling from him Uke a Pennsylvania oU
derrick. On the day of the party, his guests had arrived on
board, one or two from shore in addition to the captains
and their wives, and all were dispersed under the awn
ings, enjoying themselves, and awaiting the serving of
dinner. Captain Hopkins had gone below, presumably to put
a few finishing touches to his appearance, and brush
up his locks with a small application of his favorite
kerosene. As he was alone in the cabin, no one knew
just how it happened, but suddeffiy, every one was
startled by a yell, and the next instant the head of old
Hopkins appeared above the companionway, blazing
like a giant candle! The ladies screamed, while one or
two captains caught up buckets, and dipping up salt water
over the brig's side, deluged the captain's head, extin
guishing him in a moment, but leaving him as bald as
an egg, although beyond a few blisters, he was not
seriously hurt.
Few of those on board will ever forget his appearance
as he emerged from the cabin resembling an animated
torch. The excitement over. Captain Hopkins made hght of
it, although it came near making light of him. He insisted
on dinner being served as arranged, and going below.

BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FBI 279
changed his apparel, but it is safe to say he did not
monkey with any more kerosene experiments.
The occasion was a pronounced success, and a more
jolly party never sat down together, and when the
dinner was over, cigars were lighted, whUe the ladies
enjoyed a social chat. This was our last dinner party,
and one of the most pleasant. Captain Hopkins explained,
in answer to inquiries, that he had lit a lamp, and in doing
so had brought the hghted match in contact, some way,
with his head, and the result that we had witnessed
followed. A few days after, we bade adieu to our many friends,
and with anchors at the bow, and aU canvas spread to
a favoring breeze, we sailed from the harbor of Bahia,
bound for Liverpool, England.
We crossed the equator and sailed through the trades,
followed by a spell of light pleasant weather with variable
winds, when taking a fine westerly, which carried us to
Cape Clear, we made the light, a welcome sight, about
two o'clock in the morning, the entire passage having
been without incident of note.
Passing Queenstown, we picked up a pilot off Holy
head the following morning early.
Sailing craft and steamers were now all around us,
presenting a most animated appearance, while old Holy
head stood out boldly in the morning light. Round the
Skerries into the Irish Sea and past Point Lynas, we
were hailed by the captain of a towboat, and engaging
him after some dickering as to his charges, to tow the
" Keystone " to Liverpool and dock her, we passed the
hawser, and were soon spinmng along at a lively clip,
while saUs were clewed up and furled for the last time
this voyage, Jack working like a beaver, for Liverpool,
his earthly paradise, was almost within touch.

280 OCEAN LIFE
A few hours more, and he would step on shore, a free
man, with a good fat roU of Bank of England notes, or
golden sovereigns to spend in having a good time, for
nearly fifteen months' pay was due him, and with that
amount in his pocket in Liverpool, he would not lack for
friends, at least until he was again outward bound.
Coming to anchor in the stream to wait for the tide,
all was made ready for docking. At high water, our
tugboat took us in tow, and entering the basin, we were
warped through the gates into the Georges Dock, where
the " Keystone " was placed in berth for discharging her
cargo. Engaging the stevedore, Mr. Robert Lovegrove,
and consigffing the barque to Messrs. Wm. Killey & Co.,
we took up our quarters at a boarding-house in St. Paul's
Square, where two or three American captains, with their
wives and families, were stopping. This we considered
more pleasant than a hotel. Our hostess, Mrs. Love-
grove, the wife of our stevedore, was a most charming
woman, bright and sunny in disposition, doing everything
for the comfort of her guests, and vrith pleasant rooms,
a cozy parlor and dining-room, a good table, and geffial
company, there was nothing left to be desired, and we
settled down for a pleasant stay of a month or six weeks,
for there were no freights in the market for a home port.
After telling Messrs. KiUey & Co. to look out for a
charter for the barque, there was nothing to do except
to wait.
The time having expired that my crew shipped for,
the American consul obliged me to pay them off, which
involved three months' extra pay per man. It being in
a foreign port, added about a thousand dollars to my pay
roll. The men were not desirous of being paid off until
we arrived home, but the consffi insisted, and I could offiy
comply. Nearly aU reshipped. The first officer leaving to

BAHIA. — OUR LADY OF BOM FIM 281
get married, the second officer, Mr. Lovett, remained by
the barque, taking his place. The cook and steward also
reshipped for the next voyage, when we were again
ready for sea.

CHAPTER XXVII
1868 - 1869
LIVERPOOL.  SPURGEON AND MYRTLE STREET CHAPEL. 
AN IRISH JAUNTING - CAR.  CAPTAINS' WIVES AT SEA
Our stay in Liverpool was very pleasant, taking in
all the places of interest. Across the River Mersey is
Birkenhead, in Wales, with its beautiful park, which weU
repaid us for a visit.
A most deUghtful drive on a pleasant day was to Chid-
well Abbey, some twenty mUes distant from Liverpool,
taking in the old town of Hale, where a visit to the old
churchyard was found very interesting. Among the
graves, covered by a slab of stone, we read a very curious
inscription. It began with, " Here lies John the Child of
Hale, who was nine feet eight inches taU." Then followed
his dimensions, of limbs, also stating that he was a
publican, that is, he kept a public house or tavern in
the town, and died at the age of forty-six years. My
wife took off the inscription verbatim, but it has been,
unfortunately, lost.
All the drives around Liverpool into the country we
found most charming, and the ladies were always planning
some excursion, accompanied by our hostess, who entered
into all their plans. Her servants were competent and
reliable, so that she could do this without neglecting her
household duties, and having a knowledge of the most
282

LIVERPOOL 283
interesting places, she was invaluable to her guests. Two
or three evenings at concerts and the opera about covered
the extent of our eveffing dissipation. The ladies, being
fine musicians and possessed of good voices, could furnish
such delightful music for impromptu concerts, the games
and entertaiffing callers, of whom we had many, assisted
so materially in making the cozy parlors attractive,
that no one seemed desirous of going outside the house
for amusement.
One evening, having had tickets of admission sent
us, we went to the Myrtle Street Chapel, Rev. Hugh
Stowell Brown, pastor, to hear the Rev. Charles H.
Spurgeon, who preached a sermon in aid of the school
then being bffilt for his boys. As well as my wife, I had
a great desire to hear the world-renowned preacher.
We went early and obtained fine seats but a short distance
from the pffipit. The church was crowded to excess,
and uncomfortable from lack of ventilation, but I would
not have missed the opportunity.
When Mr. Spurgeon entered the pulpit I felt rather
disappointed. To me he did not have a clerical appear
ance. He was short and thick set, had a large, full face,
and looked the typical, jolly Englishman. He glanced
around the audience a moment, then commenced
speaking, taking the unbelieving Thomas as his text,
and after a few words, all thought of the clergyman's
appearance had vanished. You recognized the fact that
you were listening to the utterances of a master mind
pleading the Master's cause. What impassioned language,
driving home truths straight to the hearts of his hearers!
How the audience hung upon his words, as he drew a
picture of the youth growing up without care or a home,
constantly subjected to evil communications and sin,
and asked all to come forward and aid in rescuing him

284 OCEAN LIFE
from moral degradation, and by placing him under good
influences and teaching, to help prepare him for an upright
Christian life, and to become a useful member of society!
He spoke for over an hour, but there was rapt attention,
not the least sign of weariness.
Throughout the sermon I personally comprehended
the magnetism of the man. I have heard him many times
since, but he has never impressed me more than when I
listened to him at the Myrtle Street Chapel.
The " Keystone " having fiffished discharging, Messrs.
Wm. Killey & Co. offered me a round charter to take a
cargo of salt out to Chittagong, British Burmah, situated
at the head of the Bay of Bengal, with a return cargo of
rice from Akyab to Falmouth for orders, telling me they
considered it the best charter offered, and one that they
had taken for one of their own ships lying at Bombay,
and she would have to wait three months for it. As the
rates were very good, I thought best to accept it, and
taking in our outward salt cargo, we were very quickly
again ready for sea.
As I was going aboard one day at the docks, a fellow
having two dogs to sell accosted me alongside the barque,
and importuned me to buy. One was a fffil-blooded
Newfoundland, but a mere puppy, playful as a kitten,
the other was a retriever, also very small, both thorough
breds. Striking a bargain, I had them placed on board, telling
the second mate to have the carpenter knock up a house
for them and to feed them daily, and soon Jube and
Pincher, as they were named, became great favorites
¦ on board, both fore and aft.
Stores having been taken on, and new crew shipped,
including nearly all my old hands, good-bys were said to
all our friends, and we again embarked.

LIVERPOOL 285
Haffiing into the basin, with towboat ahead, we shot
through the pier heads into the Mersey, the crowd on the
pier to see us off giving a ringing cheer, which was heartily
responded to by our men, and soon old Liverpool was
again over our taffrail.
We passed the Rock Light, N. W. Lightship, Point
Lynas, and had reached Holyhead ere the hawser was
cast off, and our shore connection, with the leaving of
our pUot, was severed.
The Ulustration shows the ship " Importer," Captain
George T. Avery, passing Rock Light, bound in. She
registered 1,400 tons, was built at Newburyport, Mass.,
especially for the Calcutta trade, and made many profit
able voyages, paying for herself in less than four years.
She was in later years sold to the Germans, and, altered
to a barque rig, sailed under the German flag.
Being up with Tuskar Light, the following afternoon,
the weather looking very threatening, with a rapidly
falling barometer, we bore up and ran into Waterford
Harbor, coming to anchor between Passage and Bally-
hack. Before midnight it was blowing a tremendous
gale, and I congratulated myself that we were in a good,
safe harbor, with our anchors down, for outside we would
have been obliged to heave to, and would probably have
drifted or have been driven out of the North Channel,
as the gale lasted without any abatement for nearly a
week, to say nothing of the dangers of collision. So
many vessels congregated together in a very limited
space were more to be feared in blowing, thick weather,
than anything else in the St. George's or the English
Channel. Going on shore at Passage the next day, and climbing
the hill that affords a fine view seaward, we could see,
with the glass, numerous ships, barques, and brigs, all

286 OCEAN LIFE
under a mere rag of canvas, and buffeting the big seas,
evidently making hard weather of it. The sky overhead
was bright and clear, but the force of the wind was
terrific. We also improved the opportunity of visiting Water
ford, and landing at Ballyhack with our own boat, and
taking the steamer for the city, we arrived inside an
hour's time.
After a good dinner at the hotel, I engaged an Irish
jaunting-car, in which to ride around to see the city
generally. This was a novel experience to my wife as
well as myself. The passengers sit back to back, with
their legs hanging over the sides of the vehicle, and until
you get accustomed to it, there is a feeling as if you were
going to fall off over the wheels, especially when rounding
a corner at a high rate of speed; every one holding on
for dear Ufe, for these Irish Jehus do not spare the horse,
being bound to give you your money's worth. After a
while the pace becomes exhilarating, and you do not
mind his driving. We certainly thoroughly enjoyed it.
Waterford is a thriving Irish city, prettUy laid out,
with many fine public buildings and private residences,
good roads, and a population of upwards of twenty thou
sand. The country around produces great quantities of
hutter and cheese, so that Waterford has a large export
trade of dairy products.
Sunday morffing at daylight, with beautiful weather
and a fair wind, our anchor was hove up, all sail made,
and bidding adieu to old Ireland, we passed out into St.
George's Channel.
Fortune now seemed to favor us. The wind continued
fresh and fair, sometimes increasing to double-reef gales,
until we crossed the parallel of 30° north, and again
greeted our old friends, the trade winds.

LIVERPOOL 287
About this time, my wife expressed a wish to learn
navigation. She had always taken the time from the
chronometer for my morffing sights, and was much
interested in the day's work, and pricking off the barque's
position on the chart daily. She had always kept her
private journal, noting down each day's special events
as they occurred, descriptions of all places visited, persons
that she met and their characteristics. At the time of
writing these pages, it would have been specially valuable
as a book of reference, had it not been unfortunately
mislaid or lost.
Taking hold of the study of navigation in good earnest,
she became quite proficient. She could take a sight and
work it out as well as myself, and find the position on
the chart without assistance. AU this kept her mind
employed, and with sewing, embroidery, fancy-work,
reading and music, her time was well taken up, and she
had very few idle moments.
This was the most enjoyable period of my sea experi
ence. Again we had the glorious nights on deck, as the
" Keystone " sailed silently on under the soft rays of
a tropical moon. All my old musicians had reshipped,
and again in the eveffings the strains of music, with song,
came to our ears from forward.
The work of the ship went daily on, without friction.
Mr. Lovett, former second officer, proved himself as
efficient a first officer as Mr. Nelson, my former mate.
Let me here say a word as to the advisabUity of a
captain taking his wife to sea with him.
A captain's position on shipboard at sea is a peculiar
one. He is something like the mainspring of a watch.
If that is all right, the works will do their duty, and all
is well, but let the mainspring break, or anything happen

288 OCEAN LIFE
to it, and everything goes wrong, or stops. So the captain,
as the mainspring, in order to keep perfect discipline,
which is so essential to a weU-regffiated sffip, must first
discipline himself. He is thrown on his own resources.
All on board, except himself, have compaffions; the crew
have each other to talk with and confide their feehngs to;
the cook and steward fraterffize; the first and second
officers can confer, or even talk amicably together,
although in this case, the first officer, if he knows his
business, will preserve the line between the digmty of
his position and undue famffiarity, that in some instances
is apt to be taken advantage of by the second. The
captain, if he has no compaffion, stands alone, isolated,
in a certain measure, from all on board. The old saying,
" Familiarity breeds contempt," was never more truly
apphed than to these conditions on shipboard, and the
master, no matter how socially incUned, although he
may converse with his first officer on aU matters pertaiffing
to the ship, and even unbend and talk about side affairs,
yet he must never forget his digmty or the claims of his
position in any way that might be misinterpreted or
taken advantage of; not that aU officers woffid preserve
the stiffness of demeanor, but to . avoid trouble or un
pleasantness, it is always best to be on the safe side.
So, I beheve, if the captain is married, and his wife
is in good health, enjoys travel, and is not afraid of the
water, it were better she should accompany her husband
on his voyages as one to whom he can always turn for
companionship and confidences at sea.
Woman's influence on shipboard, if she is a true, good
woman, is felt for good throughout the ship. , She has a
refining influence, and the sailors guard their words and
actions more in her presence, for no sailor, old or young,
would pain her by thought or deed. How often have I

LIVERPOOL 289
seen Jack's face brighten up, when " the old woman "
spoke a few pleasant, kindly words to him! No matter
how young the captain and his wife may be, they are
always to the sailors on shipboard " the old man " and
" the old woman." It is a habit they have, with no
desire to be flippant or disrespectful.
The remark that I have heard so often, that a ship is
no place for a woman, seems to my mind misapplied;
if she loves the sea, and can have comfortable accommoda
tions, I can see no reason why she should not accompany
her husband on his voyages, and there is certainly no
place where more respect and courtesy will be shown
her than on shipboard. This is my judgment, and I
believe many others will testify to the same experience.
Through the southeast trade belt, we are now bowling
along, with fresh galps and bright sunshine, making
good time towards the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope.
Shoals of porpoises are daily seen, frisking and gambolling
in the waves, playing leap-frog with each other, tumbling
around the barque's bows as she drives the white foam
far on either side, and one of their number often falls a
victim to Jack's love for porpoise steak, fried liver or
forcemeat balls. The porpoise is fine eating, and a good
cook can get up most savory dishes, for both the cabin
and forecastle.
Our feathered friends, the Cape pigeons and stormy
petrels, begin to make their appearance, and as we draw
into a higher latitude, an occasional albatross is seen
hovering around, sailing in graceful curves about our
quarter, ready to pounce upon anything in the food line
thrown overboard by the cook. It is most interesting
to watch them.
The weather has changed to cooler. No more star
gazing and hngering on deck of nights. Our music is

290 OCEAN LIFE
the whisthng of the wind through the shrouds and rigging,
although from our cozy after cabin, if not too rough, are
heard the notes of Mrs. Whidden's piano, as they float
up the compamonway to mingle with the gale.
So we sail, day after day, occasionaUy sighting a
vessel which we have overhauled, or being passed by some
ship or barque whose sailing qualities are superior to our
own.

CHAPTER XXVIII
1869
CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB.  AGAIN THE BURNING GHAUTS.
 INTENSE HEAT DAY AND NIGHT.  REDUCING TEM
PERATURE.  FROM AKYAB TO FALMOUTH, ENGLAND
We are past the Cape of Good Hope, and now for the
long stretch of five thousand miles ere we shall turn to
the north'ard, and again breathe a warmer atmosphere,
under a summer sky. The " Keystone " is now running
down her easting in the " roaring forties," with strong
gales bowhng her along, part of the time under lower
topsails in the furious squalls, which are accompamed
with snow or driving, cutting hail, that causes one to
turn his back to them, when the rattle against his stiff
oilskins and sou'wester sounds like a discharge of small
shot against some metallic substance.
The squall over, upper topsails are again mastheaded,
with men standing by the halliards, ready to let go and
clew down on the next order.
A big sea rolls after, the sun breaks forth and lights
up the surges as they roll past, and perhaps in ten
minutes :
"Let go the topsail haUiards! Clew down!" comes
the order.
" Aye, aye, sir," and the yards rattle down, as another
squall bursts upon us, with a sky as black as night.
291

292 OCEAN LIFE
Oh, this, indeed, is glorious saUing! It is so pleasant
to find at noon that you have covered from six to eight
degrees of easting, for in this latitude the miles to the
degree of longitude are much shorter than at the equator,
and it is most satisfactory to see the long line covered
on the chart, and reckon, at that rate, how many more
days or weeks ere you can bear away for a warmer chme
and more genial temperature, and it comes at last. We
are nearing the equator, and eighty-five days from the
Sabbath morffing we saUed from Waterford Harbor,
the " Keystone " crosses the line in the Indian Ocean.
Up to this time our passage had been good, but now we
encountered a succession of calms and light, baffiing airs,
that was exasperating, being the last of the northeast
monsoon, and it was thirty-five days more, ere we let
go our anchor at midnight off the mouth of the Cawnpore
River, on which lies the port of Chittagong.
The land about the river's mouth is very low, so that
nothing could be seen, although the night was clear.
The water was very shoal: from six to eight fathoms.
We had run through a number of fishing stakes, but had
seen no boats, and judging ourselves about off the bar,
let go our anchor to wait for daylight.
Jube and Pincher, our dogs, who had now grown to
good size, scented the land, and were highly excited.
I was a stranger to the port, and knowing nothing of
the pilot service here, I ordered a few rockets and blue
lights brought up from below, thinking I might be able
to attract a pilot on board.
An empty beef barrel, containing a couple of pails of
water, having been brought on top of the cabin, a rocket
was placed therein, so that when the fuse was ignited
the train of sparks would go into the water. In the
meantime the dogs were very inquisitive, following me

CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 293
around and nosing everything I touched. Placing a
rocket in the barrel, I ordered Mr. Lovett to hand me a
lighted roll of paper from the binnacle. As I applied it
to the fuse, both dogs, one on each side, placed their
forepaws against the sides of the barrel, with their noses
within six inches of the fuse and directly under it, evi
dently wondering in their minds, what on earth I was
trying to do. In less than thirty seconds, the fuse ignited,
and a stream of fire rained down on the noses of two of
the most astonished dogs that were ever seen, whUe the
rocket shot skyward.
A simultaneous howl, and Pincher made a dive from
the forward part of the house to the main deck, while
Jube went over the after part, and neither took any
more interest in the display of fireworks.
Having expended a few rockets, and a couple of blue
lights, we awaited results, and instituted a search for
the dogs, which were nowhere to be seen. Finally, Pincher
was discovered crouched in the eyes of the hawse-pipe
under the to'gallant fo'c'sle, scared and trembling. He
was puUed out by one of the men, but all search for
Jube was fruitless, and I at last came to the conclusion
that he had not stopped after passing the break ot the
house, but had kept right on, over the taffraU, and had
found his end in the maw of some shark.
The night being fine, I retired for a short time, and
dropping into a slumber, I was awakened by a whisper
from my wife, that she could hear some one breathing,
and listening, I could hear a sort of muffled sound. Pro
curing a light, I discovered Jube squeezed under the
couch as far as he could get, sound asleep. From the
housetop he had gone down the companionway, and
through my after cabin into the stateroom, where he
lay while all the search was going on, finally falling

294 OCEAN LIFE
asleep and betraying his presence by his snoring. Routing
him out, I turned him on deck, but he avoided the house
top and crept off forward.
Early in the morning a native pUot boarded us, bringing
off fruit, and a quantity of fresh beef, which was hung
up to the mainstay for the cook's convenience. Jack,
in his kindness of heart, cut off large quantities and fed
to the dogs, and they eagerly devoured the unaccustomed
food, which, combined with the heat and excitement, set
them into convulsions, from which Jube died just as we
were crossing the bar, while Pincher barely recovered.
Poor Jube! He was truly mourned by all, fore and aft.
He was my wife's favorite, and she missed him greatly.
Pincher, his playmate, also seemed to mourn for him,
and was so disconsolate, going around the ship, looking
into every nook and corner, that I finally gave him to
a young Englishman, a clerk in the countmg-house of
the consignee, who had taken quite a fancy to him.
Knowing he would be well treated, I let him go.
Working up the river, the wind being ahead, the " Key
stone " was anchored off the town, dressed in all her
bunting, having the honor of carrying the American flag
on a merchant ship up the Cawnpore River to Chittagong
for the first time.
Several vessels of different nationalities lay at anchor;
among them an English barque. The weather was
intensely hot, and exposing the men to the midday sun
was out of the question, consequently, all the ship's
work was done in the early morning hours, or late in the
afternoon; all work on the cargo, caulking barque's
bends, and whatever else was necessary, being done by
coolies. The house of our consignee was large and roomy,
bffilt with regard to the climate. There were not many

CAPTAIN GEORGE T. AVERY

CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 295
frame buildings, but there was a very pretty church,
bffilt in a grove, that we attended one Sabbath morffing,
and hstened to a very interesting discourse by an English
missionary. There are several Enghsh, French and
German mercantile houses, and considerable trade is
carried on with the Mauritius or Isle of France.
Very little shore visiting was indulged in while there,
the heat was so intense. It was much more comfortable
on shipboard, and we remained afloat under double
awnings, with hammocks swung beneath. Meanwhile
our salt cargo was discharged and ballast taken in.
A few days before sailing, a long river steamer, bound
from Calcutta to Rangoon, put into the river in distress,
having met with an accident. One of her passengers had
about five hundred head of sheep on board, that he was
taking to Rangoon on speculation, sheep commanding
a high price at any of the rice ports.
As the steamer would be a long time there, and having
no market, be came on board and asked me to buy them,
finally offering them to me at a rupee and a half a head,
throwing in the feed. At this price I could see no risk,
and bought the lot, putting them between decks and
penning them in. A rupee is silver coin, value fifty cents.
Sailing from Chittagong, we dropped anchor at Akyab
the third day after, and a native trader coming on board,
I closed a bargain for all the sheep at seven rupees a
head, putting them ashore at once. At this rate the sheep
were a pretty good investment.
Calling upon my consignees, I found our cargo was
ready for shipment, and the hold was at once put in
readiness for taking in the rice.
The land surrounding this port, lying on the east side
of the Bay of Bengal, hke all this part of the coast, is
low, and the atmosphere was intensely hot, the northeast

296 OCEAN LIFE
monsoon being about finished, while the southwest had
not yet set in. We were, so to speak, " between hay and

We lay in Akyab, taking in our rice cargo, and for
four weeks the thermometer ranged from 125° to 130°
in the shade. It was almost a dead heat, with very little
breeze stirring, except for a short time ffight and morning.
The cholera was raging among the native population,
and the burning ghauts, consuming the bodies but a
short distance from and in plain sight of the barque,
were in full blast. The smoke, when wafted towards us
with the faint air in the right direction, was so offensive
that we were twice obliged to change our berth, but with
no shore leave the men all continued in good health.
Mr. Whiting, our ship-chandler, who had the entire
trade of the port, or nearly so, had arrived recently from
England accompaffied by his wife, and succeeded to the
business of his uncle. There were three English captains
in port, two of them having their families with them,
and Mr. and Mrs. Whiting invited them, with Mrs. Whidden
and myself, to take dinner with them at their bungalow.
On the day named we went ashore, late in the after
noon, and rode to their house, some little distance out.
It was built on piles, or posts, about four feet above the
earth. This was necessary, as in the wet season poisonous
snakes and other vermin creep into the houses, and could
do so more readily if they were not raised from the ground.
We were received by our hostess, who took charge of
my wife, the others not having arrived, while I remained
on the broad veranda that encircled the bungalow, to
enjoy a cigar. Here were hammocks and rechning chairs
in profusion, with punkas (swinging fans hung from the
ceiling) everywhere. The buUding was but one story in
height, but covered a large amount of space. On one

CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 297
side doors opened into Mrs. Whiting's apartments, while
on the opposite were a number of apartments with doors
opening on to the veranda. Hanging around the
bouse, and sitting about the grounds and veranda, was
a numerous retinue of servants, so indispensable to an
East Indian household.
The other guests having arrived, dinner was served
at seven, — a typical East Indian spread, comprising
soups and curries, roasts, salads and fruit, wines and
coffee. The dinner was heartily enjoyed despite the
heat, as the punkas were kept steadily going over the
dining-tables and throughout the great room, keeping a
current of air in circulation that abated the heat and
made it very pleasant.
Just as we arose from table, a squall that had been
gathering burst upon us, accompanied by the most vivid
lightning, with deafening peals of thunder. Taking the
ladies to her rooms, our hostess called to her husband
that she would show them her pretty things, while he,
with his guests, smoked on the veranda.
Sitting on the lee side, we smoked and chatted, waiting
for the squall to pass over, but instead of that, it settled
into a fresh gale, necessitating our remaining on shore
overnight. Arrangements were soon made for the ladies to occupy
the apartments of our hostess with her, while all the
gentlemen remained by themselves in the rooms opening
on the veranda.
Retiring between ten and eleven o'clock, we passed a
rather restless night, for the native servants were con
stantly moving stealthily about the veranda, and arose
early. The weather had cleared, and being a little cooler
after the storm, was more endurable. We partook with
Mr. Whiting of " chota-hazree " (httle breakfast) and

298 OCEAN LIFE
drove in town, leaving the ladies, who were not yet visible,
to follow and meet us at the " godowns " or stores.
Shortly after, Mrs. Whidden having arrived with the
ladies, we went on board the barque at once, before the
sun got high. When we were alone she told me she had
passed a sleepless ffight, for great hzards were crawhng
over the waUs. Mrs. Whiting had told her that the lizards
were harmless, that snakes were most to be feared, and
some of the most venomous she had preserved in a jar,
which she had exhibited and said they were captured in
her own room during the wet season. It was always
necessary, she said, to give your boots or shoes a shake
before putting them on in the morffing, for they woffid be
likely to contain a centipede or scorpion.
" I never was so glad to see morffing," my wife said,
as she cloSed the review of the ffight; " I woffid not live
there for a million a year! "
A cyclone of the previous year having rffined every
piano in Akyab, Mr. Whiting was anxious to buy mine
for his wife, and offered me three times the amount paid
for it in Bordeaux, over two years before, and my wife
saying that, as we were bound home, it did not matter,
I reluctantly parted with it.
A few days more and our last bag of rice or " paddy "
(rice with the husk on is called " paddy ") was taken in,
all business was closed, and we were to sail in the morffing,
offiy too anxious to get to sea.
Sleeping at ffight, owing to the intense heat, had for
awhile been almost impossible, but I at last hit on a
plan that lowered my temperature.
I had a bucket of salt water placed on each side of my
hammock, and immersing my lower extremities nearly
to the knee, one in each bucket, I lay back and slept like
an infant.

CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB 299
AU being in readiness, we awaited Mr. Locke, the pilot,
and about six a. m. we saw his boat coming off. As soon
as he came on deck, before he had time to teU us, I was
sure by his appearance that he was the bearer of bad
news. Our hostess, Mrs. Whiting, had been taken with cholera
the past ffight, had died before twelve o'clock, and was
already buried. It was a terrible shock, and I was offiy
too thankfffi we were outward bound.
Getting under way with a light breeze, we passed out
to sea, and discharging our pilot, with a message of
sympathy for Mr. Wffiting, the " Keystone " was pointed
down the bay.

CHAPTER XXIX
1869 - 1870
THE ISLE OP ST. HELENA.  LONGWOOD AND THE TOMB
OF NAPOLEON.  FALMOUTH, ENGLAND.  ANTWERP,
BELGIUM As we drew off from the land, the breeze became a
little fresher, and being well to the westward, we were
enabled to lay our course clear of the Andaman and
Nicobar Island, and passing Ceylon were soon in the belt
of the S. E. trades, and with every inch of canvas spread,
were rapidly speeding across the Indian Ocean, homeward
bound. Once again our delightfffi trades bear us towards the
Cape of Good Hope, and as we inhale the draughts of
pure air, our thoughts go back to Akyab with its broffing
heat and pestilence-laden atmosphere, and I wonder how
anybody escaped being stricken down. I am satisfied
that only the great care exercised with the men in port
kept them in good health.
Day after day the same steady breeze, sometimes
varying a little in strength, but no calms or light airs
to vex one. Jack, as usual, is well stocked up with pets,
mostly from Chittagong, consisting of several fine monkeys
and lots of the feathered tribe.
Mrs. Whidden had been presented by our stevedore
with a large white cockatoo, having a bright yeUow
300

THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 301
tuft or crest, which lay down along its neck from the crown
of its head; a handsome bird, but wild. On the approach
of any one it would ruffie up, and throw this crest forward,
assuming an angry appearance, opening its beak, which
was hawked and a most formidable weapon. The taming
of the bird seemed to be an impossibility. He could not
bear confinement, and would tear his bamboo cage to
pieces when angry, but woffid sit all day on a line stretched
across the deck just forward of the cabin, confining himself
at first to those limits.
My wife, after many attempts to make friends with him,
all to no purpose, finally gave him up as a most unsocial
bird. One morffing, during the forenoon watch. Snip, as he
was called, took a notion to go aloft. This he had never
attempted before. Edging along until he reached the
royal backstay, he grasped it and mounted aloft with
all the ease in the world, and stepping from the backstay
to the royal yard, sat there the picture of contentment.
He had been aloft an hour or so, when Mr. Nicholas
Petite, the second mate, coming on deck, spied him, and
seeing me coming from the cabin, he stepped forward,
saying: " Mrs. Whidden's bird has gone on the royal yard,
sir." " Yes, I know it," I replied; " when he gets ready
he'll come down."
" Sha'n't I go up and bring him down, sir? " he asked.
" Oh, no, it's not necessary, and more than likely he'd
bite you if you touched him."
" Oh, no, sir," he said, " he would not bite me! Don't
you think, sir, I'd better go? He may get overboard."
Seeing he was very anxious to go, I said, " All right,
go if you wish to, but take good care you don't touch

302 OCEAN LIFE
him with your bare hand," and after seeing Mr.
Petite start aloft with a short stick in his hand for
Snip to step on, I turned and went below, and was just
on the point of coming up again, when I heard a great
squawking, and emerged from the companionway just
in time to see Mr. Petite jump from the rail and slap Snip
angrily to the deck, his hand covered with blood, which
was running freely.
" What's the matter, Mr. Petite, has he bitten you? "
I inquired. " It's nothing, sir," he replied with a sickly smile.
" Come here, sir, and let me look at it," I insisted,
and finding it was a serious and most vicious bite through
the fleshy part of the hand, between the thumb and fore
finger, I dressed it with Fryer's Balsam and arnica, and
bound it up, Mr. Petite aU the time protesting that it
was nothing, but the mate, Mr. Lovett, told me after
wards, that when I went below for the balsam, Mr. Petite
walked up to Snip and, shaking his fist at him, hissed
something uncomplimentary between his teeth.
It seems, that after getting to the royal yard, he held
out his stick, which Snip alighted on, and Mr. Petite
started to descend. In getting over the futtock-shrouds
of the main top the stick came in contact with the crane-
line, and grabbing it, Snip started again for the backstay
to go aloft, when, Mr. Petite being fearful he was going
to lose him, forgot himself, and made a grab at him
with his bare hand, with the result described.
Snip went aloft many times after that, but Mr. Petite
was never anxious to go up and bring him down.
We sailed past Madagascar, and nearing the Cape, the
trades were gone, but the wind held steady in the eastern
quarter, and we were in hopes it would carry us round.
One morning the cry of " Land, ho! " came from aloft,

BARQUE "KEYSTONE," OFF HOLYHEAD, WALES, FROM BAHIA FOR LIVERPOOL

THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 303
and the high land between Cape EUzabeth and Cape
Agulhas was dimly seen, and still farther on Cape Agulhas,
the extreme tip of the great African continent came into
view. Keeping the land well aboard, to take advantage
of the current, which inshore sets past the Cape strong
to the westward, we held our way, but later our wind
died out, followed by a calm of short duration, when
breezing up from west-nor'west and increasing, sail was
reduced untU midnight found the " Keystone " under
lower topsails, heading to the south'ard with a stiff gale
blowing and a high sea. We did not complain, however,
for it had been fine so long, with smooth saUing, that this
rather broke up the monotony, and shook everything
up a little.
The foUowing day, the wind hauUng to S. S. W. gave
us a slant of which we were not long in taking advantage,
and in twenty-four hours more the Cape of Good Hope
was astern, and we were in the south Atlantic again,
heading for St. Helena with a rattling breeze, the " Key
stone " shortening the distance rapidly. I intended to
stop there and fill water, as our stock was getting low,
having had no rain since leaving Akyab.
Ten days after passing the Cape, with the break of
day " Land, ho! " again sounded through the ship, and
the famous island of St. Helena was before us, rising from
the waves like a great rock, which it is, nothing more nor
less. Getting anchors ready and chains on deck, we skirted
the shore untU, rounding the point, we came in full view
of Jamestown Harbor or Roads, and running close in,
we let go our anchor in twelve fathoms.
A number of foreign vessels lay at anchor, among
them an English man-o'-war. Ordering the water-boat
alongside, and instructing Mr. Lovett that we would leave

304 OCEAN LIFE
that night, I went on shore with my wife, to pay our
respects to our consul, and visit Longwood and Napoleon's
tomb. We had a pleasant caU on our country's representative,
and then took a carriage and drove — over a good road
all the way, with a fine outlook — to the home, or prison,
of the great general.
On arrival, we were given permission to look over the
building and grounds, an old French soldier pointing out
and explaining everything to us.
Since England handed Longwood over to the care of
the French government, everything is kept with the
utmost neatness, and as near the conditions that existed
at the time Napoleon occupied it as possible. Previous
to that we were told it had been very mueh neglected,
but be that as it may, it was then in the most perfect
condition. His favorite walk and garden, and, in short, everything
pertaining to the great soldier, came under our inspection.
Every attention and courtesy was shown us, and on
leaving, we found, to our surprise, that a gratffity or
" tip," for services, was declined with thanks. The
same custom prevailed at the tomb, which we visited
after taking leave of Longwood. There, in a dell, enclosed
within an iron railing, with weeping-willows bending over
it, is still preserved the tomb where for years rested the
remains of the world's greatest general; now reposing
beneath the gilded dome of the Invahdes, according to
the wish expressed in his will dictated on this island:
" I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the
Seine, among that French people I so dearly loved."
We stood there, in silence, beneath the willows that
grew above his untenanted grave, the setting sun tingeing
the clouds with the glory of the departing day, — the

THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 305
one hundredth anniversary of his birth, August 15, 1869, — ¦
and as the shadows deepened, our consciousness of the
present was lost in thought which harmonized with the
poet's lines:
" Oh! Shade of the Mighty I Where now are thy legions?
That rushed but to conquer, when thou led'st them on.
Alas! They have fallen, in far distant regions,
And all but the name of their conquests are gone.
The lightnings may flash, and the loud cannon rattle,
They stir not! They heed not! They're free from all pain!
They sleep their last sleep, they have fought their last battle,
No soimd can awake them to glory again."
Bidding good-by, and shaking the hand of the old
soldier on guard, we entered our carriage, and were driven
rapidly to Jamestown, where we found our boat awaiting
us. Embarking, we were puUed on board, when, aU being
in readiness, the anchor was tripped, sail made, and we
were speedily again on our way from St. Helena, having
made a most pleasant break in our homeward voyage.
Before leaving the barque the day we went to Long-
wood, I had told a darkey boy to procure three or four
cats and take them on board, and the mate, who had my
instructions regarding the business, would give him half
a crown apiece. There were a great many rats on board,
and in case of damage to the rice cargo, I believed that
the fact of my having cats on board, would clear the
insurance aU right.
Mr. Lovett now informed me that the boy had brought
on board three cats, two wild, and one tame, and they
had aU taken refuge in the hold. That they were playing
havoc with the rats we knew by the noise at night, — ¦
the squeahng of the rodents and the scampering through
the lazarette, distinctly heard in the after cabin, in the
stUl watches of the night. After awhUe the tame one

306 OCEAN LIFE
formed the habit of coming into the cabin, being en
couraged by the steward, who, secretly, as he knew I did
not want him there, woffid take him into the pantry and
feed him.
One night, some ten days after leaving St. Helena,
he roused the sleepers in the after cabin by a wUd, weird,
discordant yell, and the steward's pet was found perched
upon a trunk with his back arched at something — we
did not stop to find out what, but took measures to
effectually sUence his music.
Past Ascension Island, our trades carried us across the
hne, when light, variable winds, with rain squalls,
succeeded, and for nearly a week our progress was slow,
but once through this belt of calms, we caught the N. E.
trades in a squaU, and from that time iorward we made
fair time north, the wind not being overstrong at any time.
Almost daily now we passed through great beds of
gffifweed, sometimes extending for mUes, and very thick.
Mrs. Whidden amused herself by fishing up large quanti
ties and shaking it over a tub of water.
Fishes — some of them an inch long — and Crustacea
(sheU-fish) of every shape and kind were found, many
so singular that we tried to preserve them, but having
no alcohol, were unable to do so.
So far, we had seen but few saUs, speaking none,
although we had exchanged signals with two off the
Cape. The " Keystone " now underwent the usual
routine work of tarring, scraping and painting, prepara
tory to entering port after a long voyage, until the barque
fairly shone. All hands, fore and aft, were now looking
anxiously forward to the termination of the voyage, and
each Sunday Jack could be seen overhauling his ward
robe, brushing and mending it, and examimng the
treasures he had laid in abroad for presents to his friends.

THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA 307
and I am afraid many who were not friends, although he
thought they were, — but this did not detract from his
kindness of heart.
" Light, ho! Two points on the port bow, sir," came
from the topsail yard in cheery tones, about six beUs in
the first watch, and in a short time, the Scilly Lights
coffid be plainly seen from the deck. The night was fine
and clear, and passing the Scillys, towards morffing we
made the Lizard, rounding which, and taking on board
a pilot, the barque dropped anchor in Falmouth Harbor —
once more in the waters of old England.
On shore I found orders awaiting me to proceed to
Antwerp. Making inquiries as to a pilot, I was told I
would get one off the Foreland, or Ostend, and leaving
Falmouth about dusk, the wind blowing a brisk gale,
we fairly flew up the Channel, passing the Isle of Wight,
and were under the forelands before daylight. It was
still blowing very strong, and seeing nothing in the shape
of a pUot, we kept her travelling across the North Sea,
making sure of picking one up off Ostend. But no such
luck. No boats were out. As we drew in with the mouth
of the River Scheldt, there was no sign of any pUot. The
sand-bars, which extend out a long distance, are well
buoyed out and show the channels and fairway, and as
long as daylight lasts and one can see, it is comparatively
easy to avoid danger. In a dark ffight and blowing a
gale, it becomes a tickhsh spot without a pUot, but there
was no help for it now. We kept her going until darkness
made it impossible to see the buoys, and the water being
quite shoal, we clewed up everything and rounded to,
letting go the anchor, which held all right, for it was
evidently good holding ground.
I sent up a rocket and burned a couple of blue lights
in hopes of attracting the notice of a pilot.

308 OCEAN LIFE
I was haUed by a passing steamer, bound in, to know
if I wanted anything.
" Yes," I replied, " a pUot."
" All right! I'U report you and send one out! "
In the meantime the night wore on, daylight appeared,
and still no pilot. Getting under way we ran into the
mouth of the river, where a river pilot boarded us. He
asked for the pUot who took us in, and being told we came
in without one, he expressed surprise, saying that it had
been blowing so hard for a few days that no one had gone
out, not expecting any vessel woffid run in untU it
moderated. On our arrival at the city, we hauled into our berth
for discharging, and took up our quarters at a hotel, for
the barque had changed hands during my absence, and
I now offiy awaited the discharging of our rice to turn her
over, and after a short period of sightseeing, take the
steamer for New York. I had now been absent thirty-
four months — nearly three years — and I had about
decided to give up the sea as a profession. Since the close
of the war, the carrying trade had gone from bad to worse,
and there was no money in it.

CHAPTER XXX
1870
THE DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS.  THE WAR
TARIFF.  AMERICAN SHIPPING UNDER FOREIGN FLAGS.
— THE AMERICAN MARINE THE SCHOOL OF RESERVE FOR
THE NAVY.  FAREWELL TO THE " KEYSTONE " AT
ANTWERPIt cost SO much to saU an American ship, that it was
simply impossible to compete with foreign shipping in
the freighting business. An EngUsh, German, or French
ship could charter and make money at rates that would
run an American in debt. Why should that be so? The
reason is obvious. From 1850 to 1860, the United States
had as fine a merchant marine as ever floated. The
discovery of gold in California, and the consequent rush
tb that country, called for forwarding facilities, for pro
visions, and merchandise of every description, to be
delivered in the shortest possible time, and without so
much regard to rate of freight. There was then no
Panama Railroad, or Union Pacific Railroad buUt, and
transportation by wagons or mules across the plains of
immense quantities of merchandise, was too slow, expen
sive, and hazardous. There was no route but those via
Cape Horn or Straits of Magellan. The old-style saUing
ships, big carriers, with their bluff bows and square
sterns, were altogether too slow. 309

310 OCEAN LIFE
The emergency called for a class of ships whose carry
ing capacity was sacrificed to speed, the high rates of
freight more than compensating for loss of cargo. As
a resffit, the most magnificent class of clippers that ever
swam the ocean were called into existence, challenging
the admiration of the maritime world.
From '49 to '60, just before the outbreak of the CivU
War, these beautiful vessels were turned out from our
numerous shipyards, each increasing in tonnage and speed,
and built on the most graceful lines. They resembled
yachts rather than freighters, and sat the waters " a
thing of beauty."
With fanciful names, they formed a class by themselves,
their speed in transit being attested by such of their
number as the " Flying Cloud," " Lightmng," " Sur
prise," " Dreadnaught," " Eagle Wing," " Gray Eagle,"
" Trade Wind," and scores of others equally famous,
which could truly be designated as " ocean flyers."
The routes of these ships were generally from an Atlantic
port to San Francisco, thence to China or India in ballast,
and either loading teas for homeward trip to the United
States or England, or perhaps taking a freight in Calcutta
for New York or Boston, or coolies from Macao to Havana,
the latter a very lucrative trade, and one in which these
clippers were much in demand. During this time, freight
ing was good, and shipping paid handsomely.
Then came the bffilding of the Panama RaUroad, and
the Union Pacific RaUroad, and the day of the clipper
in the Cahforffia trade, with its high rates of freight,
was virtuaUy over. StUl, in foreign ports, with a freight
in the market, in competition with shipping of other
nations, such was their prestige, they always obtained
the preference.
Then came the outbreak of our CivU War and as a war

DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS 311
measure our tariff was increased on everything pertaimng
to shipping as well as everything else, which was a death
blow for the time to American ships, the tariff being
prohibitory to competition with foreign shipping. Not
having a force to protect our merchant marine, the
greater part were placed under a foreign flag, mostly
English, for protection. Those that remained and stUI
swung " Old Glory " from their peaks, became a prey
to Southern privateers — the "Alabama," "Shenan
doah," and others, while those that escaped capture
were relegated to distant ports to pick up a precarious
hvelihood until the war was over.
With the close of the war our shipping was reduced
to a miffimum. Every ship that was placed under the
Enghsh flag for protection " still remained an English
man," as they could not again sail the seas under the
folds of the " Star Spangled Banner." When they
changed their flag, they changed for good.
With the ending of the war all hoped that the tariff,
especially on shipping, would be reduced, to enable our
shipyards to again resume building, and enter into com
petition for the world's carrying trade, where we had lost
prestige, but it was not to be. The tariff was stiU kept
on, the same as during the war, and no one, under these
conditions, was insane enough to build. The carrying
trade of the world that should have been in American
bottoms was aUowed to slip from us, and with it one of
our finest New England industries — shipbuilding.
Not offiy this, but the nation suffered the loss of the
nurseries and schools for American seamen, brought to
perfection in our merchant marine, which stood ready as
a reserve to be drawn upon in time of war, to man our
war-ships and uphold the honor of the American flag.
Shipbuilding having ceased, men and boys no longer

312 OCEAN LIFE
looked to the sea as a calling. With the decadence of
the saihng ship the romance of the sea had departed;
to the young there was no longer any incentive to become
a sailor and their minds were diverted to other channels.
American captains who stUl foUowed their profession
hung on at reduced pay, or went to England, passed the
examiffing board, and obtained command of English
ships, sailing them for years. AU these considerations
combined caused me to make up my mind that I would
give up the sea and go into business on shore.
Through the courtesy of Mr. Hambro, of Hambro Bros.,
bankers, who came over from London to attend to our
rice cargo, we were enabled to visit many private gaUeries
of paintings which otherwise woffid have been closed to us.
Stoddard, in his charming work, says of the fine old
city of Antwerp or Anvers:
" Its name is said to be derived from the Flemish
words meamng ' on the wharf,' and that indeed is the
place where Antwerp's prosperity can be best estimated;
it is a place of wonderfffi activity, and there its splendid
quays, built by Napoleon when Antwerp formed a part
of his colossal empire, are crowded now with ships and
steamers. Yet, busy as it is to-day, it gives us but a hint
of what its commerce was three hundred years ago.
Then thousands of vessels floated in the river and more
than five hundred were arriving and departing every
day. Merchants came hither from aU parts of Europe,
and in addition to her own commercial houses, more
than a thousand foreign firms contended here in friendly
rivalry. Antwerp, however, has had much to contend
with since that time. Again and again this region has
been the cockpit of Europe, and for years, Antwerp's
wealth and prosperity declined, but now she is rapidly
recovering from her disasters."

DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS 313
A few days spent in Brussels, visiting objects of interest,
completed our stay on the continent, when returffing to
the " Keystone," our cargo being out, I closed all business
matters, turned over the command to Captain Berry,
and taking the steamer for London, bade Antwerp a
long fareweU.
A ffight's run brought us to the pier just below London
Bridge. We remained in London a few weeks, visiting
our old friends and the many places we had not seen,
among them the Tower, Hampton, Windsor, Chelsea
and Kew Gardens, Virginia Water, Eton College, Epping
Forest and Greenwich.
We went by train to Liverpool, having secured passage
on the Cunarder " Palmyra," Captain Watson, remaining
there a couple of days, picking up what few things
we wanted for the trip home, and on a raw, chUly
mormng, took our departure from the Prince's Landing
Stage for the " Palmyra," lying at anchor in the
Mersey. " AU aboard! " The anchor was weighed, and the
steamer was pointed down river. The saloon passenger
list was very small, not exceeding fifteen, with about
one hundred and fifty in the steerage.
Although the passage to Boston was exceedingly rough,
the steamer encountering very heavy westerly and nor'-
westerly gales, with violent snow and hail squalls and
high seas, yet no accident occurred, and the passengers,
both in saloon and steerage were comparatively com
fortable. It was too rough for pleasure on deck and
amusements for the steerage were being constantly
improvised. A mock trial held the boards every evening
for over half the passage, and was participated in by
the passengers and members of the ship's company;
stewards, saUors, petty officers, representing plaintiff

314 OCEAN LIFE
and defendant, lawyers, judge, jury and witnesses, crier,
constables or police, and court officers generaUy.
The case was a very difficffit one to decide. The
arguments on both sides were spicy and witty, showing
a good knowledge of legal acumen, and it became such
a feature, and so interesting that ffightly the male portion
of the saloon passengers would steal forward into the
steerage to listen to the debates. It finaUy ended in a
verdict for the female defendant, to everybody's satis
faction. Fifteen days from the Mersey, the " Palmyra " passed
Boston Light, steamed up the harbor, and docked at her
pier at East Boston, our long passage ended, and with
it my quarter-century's sea experience, from a boy m a
ship's forecastle to the quarter-deck as captain and part
owner.

FINIS.

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