i»''-f; »-.*SiS Srf- YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY The Lands of Cazembe. LACERM'S JOURNEY TO CAZEMBE In 1798. translated and annotated By captain E. F. BUETON, F.E.G.S. JOURNEY OF THE POMBEIROS p. J. BAPTISTA AND AMAEO JOSE, ACROSS AFRICA FROM ANGOLA TO TETTE ON THE ZAMBBZE. TRANSLATED BY B. A. BEADLE; y / RESUME OF THE JOURNEY OF MM. MONTEIRO AND GAMITTO. By de. C. T. BEKE. {Published by the Royal Geographical Society. \ LONDON: JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 1873. londo:n : i'BINTKD BY WILLIAU CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STKEET, ASD CHARING CROSS. PKEFACE. The interest excited by the recent letters of Dr. Livingstone concerning the country of the Cazembe and neighbouring regions of Central Africa, has induced the Council of the Eoyal Geographical Society to publish, for the information of its Fellows and the public, the present volume of translations of narratives of Portuguese journeys into those little-known parts of the African interior. The first in order, and the most important, of these narra- fives, is that of Dr. de Lacerda, who led an expedition to Cazembe near the close of the last century. For the trans lation of this (copiously annotated), the Council are indebted to Captain E. F. Burton, who is so well qualified, by his great experience in African travel and his philological acquirements, for such an undertaking. The second narrative, the route- journal of the Pombeiros P. J. Baptista and Amaro Jos4. ~who traversed Africa from Angola to Tette, and crossed, therefore, the recent line of march of Dr. Livingstone be tween Cazembe and Lake Bangweolo, has been translated by Mr. B. A. Beadle, Chancellor to the Portuguese Consulate in London, Captain Burton revising and editing this portion of the volume. Of the third narrative, that of Messrs. Monteiro and Gamitto, whose journey to Cazembe was undertaken in ^ 1831, it has been thought sufficient to reprint a resume that had previously appeared from the able pen of Dr. Charles Beke. CONTENTS. Introduction of Dr. de Lacerda to the Public by the Translator . . . . 1 Preliminary Observations, &c., by Dr. Francisco Jos^ Maria de Lacerda 14 Information touching the proposed " Cazembe Expedition," and In structions issued to his Party, by Dr. Francisco Jose Maria de Lacerda 33 CHAPTEE I. The Depabtuee. Preparations for the Journey — The Journey commenced' — Desertion of Porters — The Lands of the Marave — Stay at Tete — The Maxinga Estate — Hostility of the Maraves — Village of Jaua — Arrival at the LupatadaJaua .. Page 55-67 CHAPTEE II. The Makch from the Lupata da Jaua to the Northern Aeuakg6a BlVEE. Halt on the Caruzissira — Arrival at Java — Mines of Java — Rivalry of the Muizas Chinimbu and Mussidansaro — Sezao, or Sea soning Fever — Halt on the Chigumunquire — Attacked by the Ma raves— The Muizas Cannibals — Scarcity of Salt — Mutumbuca Tribe — Reach Caperemera's Village — Respect manifested by the Kinglets — Mode of Killing Elephants — Red Hair-powder — Antipathy of the People to the sound of Musical Instruments — Departure from Caperemera's Village — Desertion of Bearers — Village of Mazavamba — Halt near the Remimba River- Dearth of Provisions at Village of Capangura — Reach the Northern Aruangoa River .. Page 68-86 CHAPTEE III. The March from the Northern Aetjang6a River, till the Death OF Dr. de Lacerda. Halt near the Village of Caperampande — " Raising Pombe '' — Visit from Mambo Mucungure — Corporal Punishment a cure for Caffre desertion — VI CONTENTS. Muiza Iron-smelting Furnaces — Unreliableness of Caffre Information Village of Morungabambara — Wretchedness of the Villages and Huts — Reach the River Zambeze — Village of Pumo Chipaco— Amenities of the Chief — Caffre Greeting Ceremonies — Village of Fumo Monro- Atchin- to — Its Position fixed— Sura Wine — Mode of preparing Manioc-meal — News of the Cazembe — Offerings to the Manes of his Ancestors in celebra tion of Arrival in his Country — End of Dr. de Lacerda's Journal — Re marks by the Translator — Diary of the Journey . . Page 87-106 CHAPTEE IV. Diary or the Expedition sent by Her Most Faithful Majesty to ex plore THE African Interior, and to the Court of the Cazembe, distant 270 Leagues from Tete, kept by the Chaplain and Com mander, Fb. Francisco Joao Pinto, in continuation of the Diary of Dr. Francisco Jose de Lacerda e Almeida, to be presented to the Most Illustrious and Excellent Senhor Francisco Guides de Cae- valho b Menezes da Costa, Governor and Captak-General of Mozambique and the Coast of East Africa. Section I. From date of Arrival at the City till December 31, 1798. At the Court of Cazembe — " Mirambo " or Present — His Impatience at its Delay — Difficulties from an Affaire de Ckui Ceremonies of theOflScial Reception — Disputes as to Seniority in the Expedition — Summons of the Cazembe for the Expedition to attend the triumphal entiy of a Caboceer — Quarrel in the Camp and troubles arising out of it — Judgment pro nounced by the Cazembe — Visit to the Palace — Cazembe's Curiosity as to our Camp bedstead — Refusal to "give pass" to the Expedition — Illness of the Cazembe. Section II. Continuation of the Diary from the beginning of the year 1799 to Ftbruary 17, 1799. Dangerous state of the Cazembe — Propitiatory Human Sacrifices for his Recovery — Public Reception to celebrate his Convalescence — Audience conceded to Fr. Pinto — Revocation of Leave of Departure — Arrogance of the Fumo Anceva .. .. .. .. .. .. Page 107-123 CHAPTEE V. Continuation of the Chaplain's Diary from February 17, 1799, to the Time op Preparing foe the Retuhn March. Demand of further Presents to tho Cazembe — Prince Muenebuto — The Murundas — Their Ceremonies, Customs, &c. — Country of the Murundas — Difficulties with Subordinates of the Expedition — Their Conspiracy — Further Interview with the Cazembe — Opposition of the Fumo Anceva — Insulting Behaviour of the Subordinates — Departure for Mdro — Fight in the Camp — Complaints and Threats from the Cazembe — Tete-a-tete with him — Mutiny among the Expedition at the Delay — The Pumo Anceva — The Cazembe's demand for Gunpowder — Intrigues of Jose' Rodrigues Caleja . . . , , , . . . . . . Page 124-146 CONTENTS. vu CHAPTEE VL The Return March, the Attack, and the Plight. Taking leave of the Cazembe — Start for Chungu — Arrival at the place of the Muenempanda — His Congratulations on our reaching his Estate — Pass through Ohiliamono and Chiliapaco villages — Drunkenness of the Muizas — Reach the Northern Zambeze River — Attacked by the Muizas — Their Repulse — Further Alarms en route — Pinched with Hunger — The Expedition reaches Tette — Letter of the Chief Sergeant Pedro Xavier Velasco to the Home Government .. .. ,. Page 147-164 JOURNEY OP THE " POMBEIROS,", FROM ANGOLA TO THE RIOS DE SENNA. PAGE A. Despatch from the Captain-General of Angola, Jose d'Oliveira Barbosa 167 Despatch of the Governor of Tette to the Count das Galveas .. 167 Documents enclosed : — 1. Copy of Route Journal of Pedro Joao Baptista from Muro- pue to Cazembe . . . . . . . . . . 169 Ditto Ditto Ditto from Cazembe to Tette . . 189 2. Questions put to Pedro Joao Baptista .. .. .. 198 3. Copy of Letter from Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Hono- rato da Costa 200 B. Despatch from Captain-General Jos^ d'Oliveira Barbosa . . . . 202 Documents enclosed : — 1. Copy of Letter of P. H. da Costa (translated in Part A.) 203 2. Copy of Route Journal of P. J. Baptista from the Lands of the Muatahianvo to those of the King Cazembe . . 203 3. Ditto from the Cazembe to Tette 219 4. Notes of the Days of Journey of P. J. Baptista .. 219 5. Account or Report of P. J. Baptista relative to his Journey 221 C. Notice of what passed in the town of Tette between P. J. Baptista, the Governor, and other Inhabitants. Written by himself .. 233 D. Declaration of Francisco Honorato da Costa in favour of his Pom beiros, who effected the Journey . . . . . . • ¦ 241 Legislative Documents referring to the Explorations . . . 242 RESUM:^ OP THE JOURNEY OF MM. MONTEIRO AND GAMITTO. By Dr. C. T. Beke 245 INTEODUCTION OF DR. DE LACERDA TO THE PUBLIC. BY THE TEANSLATOE. OuK earliest authorities upon the subject of Africa, the classical and sub-classical authors, were followed by the Portugueses^ who betimes, in the sixteenth century, established factories on both coasts, eastern and western: their traders crossed the interior from shore to shore, whilst their missionaries founded large and prosperous colonies, such as Znmbn in the east and j^an Ralvarlnrin Lka-BTPst^ with cathedrals^ churches, chapels, and —atone houses. The explorers did not neglect either the Lake Eegions of Central Intertropical Africa, or even the basin of the Zambeze Eiver. Foremost in the heroic band — whom of late years it has been the fashion to ignore — stands that "martyr in the cause of science," !Qr. Francisco Jos^ Mqjia de Lacerda e Almeida. His family was Paulista. that is to say, from t.lif. city of .Sao. PauIo in the Brazil, a place whose name, however little known at present, will be famous for all time, a town of some 5000 or fiOOO dauntless SOulg wl|r» PYplnrpd and Annr^iiP.rp.d the vast area " bounded by the Amazon and by La Plata, and stretching from the Atianiic to tbe Andes. It is doubtful whether Para or Bahia was the birthplace of Dr. 'de Lacerda; he graduated, however, as an M.D. (doctor of mathe matics) at Coimbra, and presently he was appointed astronomer to H. M. F. Majesty. He left LisbonX January 8, 1780) in the Coragao de Jesus, with the object of surveying and laying down .the Western limits of the great Luso-American dependency. Whilst travelling from Barcellos to the capital of Mato-grosso, B 2 INTRODUCTION". he was attacked (September 23, 1781) by Indians, who wounded' ' him with an arrow : the ^arrapatos. or poisonpus, ticks, also- afflicted him with an unpleasant complaint, the well-knowa- "^amas." During 1784 he laboured in the interior with the- great Luso-Hispanian " Commission of Limits ;" in 1786 he left- Cuyaba (Mato-grosso), and, ascending the Ti^te Eiver, reached Porto Feliz, in the then captaincy, no-^v the province, of Sao- Paulo. He passed a portion of 1788 near the lakes or swamps- of " Xaraos " (Xarayes) : here he was hunted by, and sometimes- he hunted, the-opce formidable ." Canoe Indians," or "P^- agggs," who call themselves Eijiguaijigi. and who, according to- some, gave name to the Paraguay river. He also visited the Cayap6s, a tribe not yet extinct, and other various clans of the- great Guaycurii or Aycurii race, whom the Spaniards term Cabal- leros, or "Mounted Indians." Finally, he travelled amongst the Moxos or Mojos. Indians of Bolivia, concerning whom we have details in Triibner's 'Bibliotheca Glottica' (London,. 1858). In 1790, Dr. de Lacerda returned to Lisbon, and published the results of his long and weary wanderings. His book, the- ' Diario da Viagem do Dr. Francisco Jose de Lacerda e Almeida, pelas Capitanias do Para, Eio Negro, Matto-grosso, Cuyaba, e S. Paulo, nos annos de 1780 a 1790,' was lately republished at Sao Paulo — "Imprenso por ordem da Assembleia Legis- lativa da Provincia, &e. : na Typografia de Costa Silveira, Eua de S. Gongalo. No. 14. 1841." Yet it is not easy to procure- a copy, and I should have failed but for the kindness of my excellent friend, then Deputy from Taubate, and subsequently President of the province of Alagoas, Dr. Moreira de Barros, of" S. Paulo. The work contains a valuable itinerary from Cuyaba, and talfifii ¦filii WSI WfxP"^ a;; p.aiid.„se.rpen ts , which, however mar vellous, may be taken entrust. . One snak9 vfasi so hnfp. that the j^a^'ges.iaajcyiaaLiti.Qiia.an-Qld canoe. bp.p;ar| fo bnm it. Although mere diaries, the records are remarkable for correctness : lati tudes, longitudes, and altitudes are duly chronicled, the breadth of rivers is trigonometrically measured, and, in fact, all the labours required from the latest travellers are regularly gone- through. INTRODUCTION. S Eeturned to Lisbon, we find Dr. de Lacerda complaining that his slaves at Sao Paulo had plundered his property and had destroyed his valuable papers ; hence the imperfections of the map which he presented to the Eoyal Academy of Sciences. I cannot discover the year in which he was transferred to Africa. We know that in 1797 he accompanied an expedition to explore the course of the Cunene Eiver, which discharges itself westward into the Atlantic. There he failed : the recovery of his diaries, however, would interest geographers, as that intricate and confused section of African hydrography is still to be explored. A man of eminently advanced views, he returned with the mighty vision of a second and southern overland transit f^gem a contracosta) through Southern Africa, a jyhole generation before Lieut. Waghorn arose; whilst his proposal to erect a chain of presidiosTOTTofSfied posts, along the Coanza Eiver, in order to explore the copper-mines of Angola, and to communicate with the Mozambique, was made befoie Dr. Krapf and the 'l.A.pnst1f^?i' pt.reet/' -^irfirp. frffrn * The attempt was new though the idea was not. Fray Manoel Godinho, who travelled in 1663, describes an overland route from India to Portugal, and the literary Jesuit De Jarric declares that there was nothing to prevent our going from Monomotapa to Angola by land. These authors, however, bore the same relation to Dr. de Lacerda as the " Mombas Mission" to the first East African Expedition. After this exploration, and certainly before 1798, Dr. de Lacerda addressed to the enlightened Minister of State, D. Eodrigo de Sousa Coutinho, certain memoranda touching an expedition "iroih 'Sngoia to Mozambique. On March 12, 1797, he was appointed by Her Most Faithful Majesty f to conduct * The Missionaries of Chrishona, near Basle, proposed twelve mission-stations along the banks of the Nile, from Alexandria to Gondar ; -whence other branch houses were to be established towards the South, East, and West of Africa, " as it shall please Providence to show the way, and to point out the requisite means." Each station, which is to be fifty leagues distant from the other, will be called by the name r,f ati appatlp. — for instance, the HrVti'?? "t Alf^^""'^'''" •°""'' ^° yorya.^ 4ho-i-^t-|^| jyQ^»-n7- the atation at OlilTt).ifl£fiit.iMaiife ; at A33mn..Qf St. Luke ; and so on.— JDrTKrapfs Travels, Mesearches, and Missionary Labours (,pp. 133, 213), London: Trubner and Co., Paternoster Row, 1860. f. Donna Maria I., the daughter of D. Jos^ (Emanuel), born 1734, married in 1760 to her uncle D. Pedro (who died in 1786), reigned from 1777 to 1816, the year B 2- 4 INTRODUCTION. the exploration, and Portugal has ever been, generous_ to her jaaoag sons. Under EJESfflMda-J^atonio .Sfi^res de Norpnha, fifty-fifth Governor of Angola, he was made Governor of the Eios de Sena, in the Captaincy of the. Mozambigye. On March 28, 1798, he addressed to the Minister another highly interesting letter upon the subject of his intended march to the capital of the African king known as the Cg^embg, with deposi tions of certain baj^kwoodsmen (sertanejos) who had volunteered to accompany him; with oral information received from the natives, and with copies of his orders to the expedition of which he was in command. On July 3, 1798, he began his journey. After opening up at least 270 leagues of new land he reached his destination, and he fell a victim to his own exertions on October 18, 1798. But he had marched to S. lat. 8° 15', and the Portuguese were no longer in ignorance of everything north of S. lat. 16° 20". The diary speaks for itself; it is a drama with the cata strophe of a tragedy. Well worth perusal, it is what every African explorer should be taught to expect, and should learn to thank his stars if he live to tell the tale. To one who has undergone the ordeal it vividly suggests past horrors. ^Jero- nymoJPereira, the .then Governor of Mozambique, will not hear the expedition spoken of in his presence, as too often happens in this our day. The villainous Colonel _of Maniga Militia sells to the explorer ba^Tcloth at TEevery highest prices. The whites appointed to command the blacks are thoroughly dis- jieartened and demoralised. They think only of "creature comforts " and vile lucre, they refuse to lend any assistance, and they^privily tamper with the negroes, so as to ensure desertion, which may shorten their trials. The slaves levied for the Eoyal service fly from it in numbers, and the commander, undefended by soldiers, is compelled to trust himself to wild " Caffres," who throw down their loads, and without a word of notice disappear in the bush. There are infinite intrigues and of her death. In consequence of her insanity, the Prince of the Brazil, subse quently D. Joao VII., was made Regent on February 10, 1792, after which his mother took no part in public affairs. It was therefore virtually under this prince that the expedition was made. INTRODUCTION. 5 quarrels between the whites, plots and battles between the" blacks, and utter disunion between whites and blacks. The wild Maraves and Muizas plunder and threaten, and are ever upon'the point of c^KSing the road. Then come the usual fever- - fraught ftuxTftties, the sleepless nights spent in looking forward ^ to hopeless days, the desperate determinations, the stubborn- endurance, and the irritation, soothed only by the hope of being able to assert oneself at some future day. Presently, as the party leaves the coast and the coast-people, matters appear to mend; the subjects of the African despot are a distinct improvement upon the lawless republican neighbours of civiliza tion, and one chief after another proves himself something very like a friend. But it is all too late; the excitement of the march is over, the traveller reaches his goal, he falls into the npnfry "^^ """"""¦-¦ he sinks under the strong r(^g,ction. and — jiest* Unfortunate even in death, he is exhumed when his companions are returning to their homes, the party is attacked in the bush, and the mortal remains of the unfortunate explorer are scattered upon the inhospitable African ground. After Dr. de Lacerda's death, all, of course, went wrong. He had left orders for the chaplain, Fr. Francisco Joao Pint(^ to command the rabble rout, and the ecclesiastic seems to have been wholly unequal to the task. He struggled, however, man fully about sending men forward to Angola, and thus carrying out one object of the expedition ; but here he was contending against a, force majeure — African custom. His party rebelled spiritually and temporally, it refused to attend Mass or to be *** placed under arrest : finally, sundry members deserted, and on their home-march so conducted them selves, that the unfortunate padre narrowly escaped with his life. The ill-fated expedition left the city of the Cazembe, which it did not even name, on July 22, 1799, and reached Tette after four months (Novem ber 22). Altogether it had spent sixteen and a half months on this enterprise, and the second in command soon followed the first to a place whence explorers, as a rule, return not. ' Dr. de Lacerda was not only a scientific traveller, but also a sympathetic, zealous, and hard-working man. In his worst times of sickness he remembers his compass, he makes obser- b INTRODUCTION. vations of longitude by Jupiter's satellites, and he remarks the , quality of ground, and its power of production. There is a simplicity about his writing now unusual and, his Diary not having been corrected nor prepared for the press, its style, which scholars pronounce to_ be^ unclassical, lets us into the .j0hor's"heart. He " loves men," as the Arabsj^jSjffieTjene^ volent, and he ever thinks of his party in the hour of hunger and hardship. Though born when rational beings rarely doubted the propriety of enslaving negroes, he is a kind of philanthrope, and he avoids using harsh measures unless absolutely necessary. Even when furious with his treacherous companions and his Kalse, cowardly friends, he speaks of the " lively grief caused Iby the death of my beloved wife, whom God was pleased to take ¦|to himself, in the flower of her age, on the first of April." He is strong in hope, and is somewhat Utopian in his ideas of what an African expedition and its leader ought to be ; were his sine (jua non made requisite, no party would set out for want of the qualifications required. He has the habit of pious exclamations : he begins his diary with iiDirige Domine Den^^ mpu!^," &c., and he thoroughly believes in the thraldom of Sathanas. He does not, perhaps, quite come up to the serious and reverend spirit ^ which the 'Quarterly' finds in the ' Eomance of the Nile,' alias the 'Crescent and the Cross.' The fact is that his religiousness. ~ffihJ,ftk.c.rflps.ijat.atjlimes^Js_somewhaJL^ by exten- .jJSgifflXel, and by,fl3^turno£mifi^ply^osophicand Pljoi quotes " Tiinor f(?cit deos " — belonging to the days of the Great Eevolution. He is charafft-eristically loval^ like every Portu- ,IS^,.,Si£tt§^a^' especially in those pre-constitutional days, when the king was to a great extent lord and ruler; and he thinks of his beloved Queen, not of " Her Majesty's Govern ment " nor, by way of climax, of " the Public." He moralises much, and he is somewhat profuse in reflections, far more sound than novel; whilst perhaps the first personal pronoun is made to ^/ occur a little too frequently. jae^fr-grgBwdilngnpnt. ac.^ rwilior, ; «he indices Awi'u%Jflagri5iajl£^LsMa and he d£ags_iniJi^ an Anglo-Indian, JiaeaJi3ascjaat^SS-.vrords. Finally, he has not i forgotten liisffij^ocrgi^s ; and he is not ashamed to quote his Horace. INTRODUCTION. 7 The party which accompanied him must be briefly sketched. "The African portion consisted of one " Chinimba " of the Muiza iribe, an envoy and servant (bandasio) of the King Cazembe, -and of " Catara," a grandee of the same potentate's Court. These two high officers were accompanied by their spies, and this is a system of haute police in which, as I have elsewhere shown ('Mission to Dahome') Africa excels.* One mouchard ¦died, the other, a confidential slave of the Cazembe, and sixteen- eighteen years old, accompanied the party the whole way, in order to look after his master's rights. Finally, there were 400 •Caffre porters, a floating item in the caravan, as they seem to iiave deserted whenever and wherever they pleased. The whites were much too numerous for marching without trouble or disunion. First, we hiv" tho i^"Til"\^^lft fhnplninthr Eeverend Father Francisco Jo5o Pinto, brother of the dommandant of Tette, who afterwards succeeded to the com mand: he presently will speak for himself. There are two envoys sent to the Cazembe, No. 1 being Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, chosen by Dr. de Lacerda to visit Angola, and to report success at home in Portugal. This gen tleman with a name and a half is highly spoken of by both commandants ; he behaved remarkably well during the danger ous retreat ; he saved the poor Padre by his generosity, and he may be called the good angel of the party. No. 2 is the Lieu tenant of Sena, Jose Vicente Pereira Salema, chosen by the priest, and also named as envoy to Angola, where he too did not go. He seems to have been a respectable man. Besides what we may call the diplomats, there were three guides. The first was a Goanese, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, popularly known as Dumbo-dumbo, or " the Terror ":t his title * So in Abyssinia, governors of important fo-wns are narrowly watched and reported on by paid spies. t In 'Dr. Livingstone's Second Expedition' (chap. x. p. 205) we are told that Pereira, who gloried in being called "the Terror," was the fgimderaLZwabo, thfl~- latter being described as a Jesuit station; moreover'that it was the departure point ¦of two expeditions, that of Dr. de Lacerda and that of Monteiro and Gamitto. ^ Zumbo, which has been conjeoturally identified with fh^, Ptolemeian Ajrvaiiribfl^ was built by the Jesuits during the last century, and upon an island. According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 1^) it had its church and churoh-bells, stone houses, .and other commodities ; it wjp the only inland town which can properly be so •called south of Harar i^^tloslem Abyssinia, and here was discovered the o INTRODUCTION. was Oapitao Mor da Michonga^ Chief Captain of the^ush. Like all men much acquainted Mth Xffican travel, he was^ jersed in every native f,d9d£re." he was rendered independent ?by a troop of slaves as cunning as himself, and Jb^ms an 'jold soldier." h.e ..preferred, running to fighting. His name seldom occurs until after Dr. Lacerda's death, when the priest frequently mentions him ; he ends by deserting his leader- on the line of march, and by behaving much like a cur. No. 2 was Manoel Caetano Pereira, an African Creole, and son of the- former ; he conducted himself badly, as regards the Chaplain- Commander, whom he also left in the bush. He had, how ever, the^^ghadow of an excuse, the taste of a Muiza arrgw.- To these we must add' "tKie third guide, Jose Eodrigues Caleja, originally Chief Sergeant of Ordnance, and afterwards made EecftixP-Tr .o£- the Eoyal, Treasury. Although highly recom mended, he proved himself the hardest bargain of the little company. Bjis^^ name ^^^qccurs^ with ^provoking constancy, his intrigues cut short the transit to Angola, and at last, after "deserting the Padre, he does his best to compass his death^^ He is the bad angel, or devil, of the expedition, and every expedition of the kind has"at least one. J The military commandants and the officers of the party were as follows : — The Chief Sergeant,* Pedro Xavier Velasco, began well, but ided with " playing tricks on the clergy " ; and, by putting iimself unduly forward at Court, he became personally dis- Ijasteful to the Cazembe. His slaves, also, seem to have been , " bad lot." Four years after the end of the expedition, in 1805,, as senior survivor, he writes home to some Excellency, request ing to be rewarded for his exertions. The Captain Joao da punha Pereira, who, in his turn, became Eeceiver of the Eoyal Treasury, is described by Dr. Lacerda as a man of bad head jand worse tongue. Presently he refused to be arrested by the ecclesiastical leader. He seems, however, after showinof belebrated theriac of Frei Pe^ro. mentioned in 'Dr. Livingstone's First Expe dition ' (chap7xxxi)r~S^simba must probably be sought in the stone ruins of Zimbabye, lately discovered by Herr Carl Mauojj. See the Diary, September. 7, 1798. l.jr (^ In the seventeenth century the Sargento HBr ranked before the Majors. INTRODUCTION. , / 9< J himself peculiarly seditious to have " turned over a new leaf," and to have ended tolerably well. Little is said of the commander of the troops, the fort-lieutenant, and notary of Tete,-«Alltcnio. Jose da Cruz, except that hepreferred fiinp[ing " comic." called by the priest " profane," songs, instead of hearing mass, and that he ran the party into danger by .making fierce ,]ove to the Cazembe's wives. In objecting to be present at the " Sacrifice," he was joined and abetted by the_ ensign of militia, Vasco Joaquim Pires, who also placed his immortal soul in dire peril. He ¦ r^jAd «^T^ t£e retreat unsacramented — " uphousel'd, disappointed, unanel'd "—and hg.jKa3,. "puLioJpjed" in the bush, a palpable, jJiiismen.1; ^nd .a ppintipg,. ,fflLfi,r3,l. We can hardly wonder at the poor priest taking such a view of the matter, when daily we see in the writings'" of our modern ecclesiastics the same ' presumptuous views of "miraculous interpositions," and the ,^ame spiritual pride which is perfectly conyersanLwitii-lbe .hidden designs of Omnipotence^^ and Omniscience. The Lieu tenant Maijoel dos Santos e Silva was at first Eeceiver of the- Eoyal Treasury, which office he lost in consequence of em bezzling cloth and " cooking " accounts. H^f^ was,, j];],^, mm yb"- ^' wished to die," and almost every party has one. Finally,. mere was the commissary and fort-adjutant of Sena, JUm Thomaz Gomes da Silveira e Silva, he was a good man under Dr. de Lacerda, but the successor describes him to be a ruffian,- as proud of his birth as he was vile and unworthy of it. He openly wished that the priest had been burned. Knowing most of the Caffre tongues, and easily learning others, he was a good linguist, i^'^'i^gnnr' ^¦'"gnifitifl ^^^ "%n ^^^ characters — . mostly "too clever by halj^ The other minor natfiies which occur are " nootoT^^ 'paLi'so^"' the chief of squajdroi ; the pilot " Bernardino." brought in case ot boating bejrfg required; an unimportant soldier, " Antonio' Francisco Belgado": the corporal " Paulo da . Silva," and the soldier 'jClaetano da Costa " — ^the twolatterwere left behind,. in the vain hope that they might carry out the views of the Govenlment, and reach Angola. Including all those above menticmed, the escort was composed of fifty men-at-arms, undrilled, unused to musketry, and badly provided with poor 10 INTRODUCTION. weapons and ammunition. They were, therefore, worse than useless. The negroes must have thought these bastard whites a race baser even than their own. No wonder that such a party broke the hearts of two leaders. I seem .again, to ,ggg,Jhg_§QOwling .faces, and, to hear AaJLoHd., diRf;|^T;(}gjTt voices, of mv^efes^jres ¦of a decade and aJhaK ago — Muigni Kidogo, the slave, and the BalQch Roldier Khudabakhsh-^la'anahumTjllah ! ' The Diary, as we are informed at the end, had been forwarded to Portugal before November 1805. The despatches were used by Bowdich when compiling his once popular volume on the 'Discoveries of the Portuguese,' &c. According to the '" Geographer of N'yassi," these documents have been since published entire in a little Portuguese work, entitled ' Con- sideraqoes politicas e commerciaes sobre os Descobrimentos e Possessoes dos Portuguezes,' &c. Lisboa, 1830. By Jose Accursio das Neves. When at Lisbon, in 1865, 1 vainly at tempted to buy the book, nor have I since been more fortunate. Finally (November- 5, 1844), the despatches were printed in the 'Annaes Maritimos e Coloniaes,' &c. (Imprensa Nacional, Lisboa), with observations upon the interior of Ben- guela, from a document communicated, June 2, 1844, to the Maritime Association of Lisbon, by its ex-president, the Viscount .^dp. ¦Sa_fla.„„]Pj^jjf^^rft. Tha1i.,.yeterjai)u«,staiesEaan - and.,- yenerable" AfricaUigeflgrapher has also enriched the despatches with notes which I have been careful to retain. If Dr. de Lacerda did not carry out his whole project, his partial success considerably increased our knowledge of the African interior. This is amply proved by the quotations from his writings, which occur in the pages of our best comparative "geographers, and by the high esteem in which he is held by that ,conBcientious .student the late Mr. James Macqueen.* Indeed, the expedition of Monteiro MidGamitto, which in 1831 left Tete and reached the capital of the Cazembe, can hardly be said to have added much to what was noticed by the * ' Notes on the Geography of Central Africa, from the Researches of Living stone, Monteiro, Gra9a, and others.' By James Macqueen, Esq., F.R.G.S. ' Journal,' vol. xxvi., 1856. INTRODUCTION. 11 ¦energetic and courageous Governor of the Eios de Sena. It is time that his pages should appear in an Eng-li.sh dress, more especially as they are now buried in a book become rare and be coming rarer. No time can be more opportune than the present for offering a translation to the public. .^Until Dr. Tiivingstnne. .jliall have returned from his third expedition, the writings of De Lacerda must continue to be our principal authority, and only from them the reader can at present learn where the English traveller is said to have been detained. Years ago I had translated the papers for my own instruction, and after reading Dr. Living stone's last volume and hearing of his present journey and the latest reports, it struck me that the version might profitably be laid before the public. Since the visit of Dr. de Lacerda three Portuguese expeditions and one Arab have sighted the Cazembe.^ The first were the "Pombeiros." or nativ^ travelling frndpra (not " tsLO. black slayes "), Pedro,.lflEaJSa^liista, and An^aiaciQ. Jose, sent in 1802 by Honorato da Costa, superintendent of the Cassange Factory. The second (1831-1832) was that of MM. Monteiro and Gamitto ; it produced a large volume, which > also I have analysed. Of the third I know nothing except from M. Valdez, who remarks (chap. vii. vol. ii., 'Six Years of a Travelling Life in Western Africa ') : "I think the last visit of a white traveller to (the) Cazembe was in 1853, when my companion and friend Mr. Freitas was one of the gentlemen forming the expedition." The Arab journey is described in the Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society (1854, vol.xxiv. p. 261) by Sr. Bernardino Freire and F. A. de Castro, and curiously mis-commented upon by Mr. Coolej^ I must own to having taken certain..lil2Scti£S...with .ths^a^riier ^^rt.jo£ my -text. The whole would hardly bear translation, on account of the many repetitions in a work evidently not pre-^ pared for publication, the triteness of the ideas, the diffuseness of the language, and the prodigious lengthiness of the seiiteaaces/ In many parts the order of narration has been changed. An abridgment is therefore offered to the reader, but it is one of words, not of sense ; the pith and marrow of the original have never been rejected ; in no case has a difficulty of diction been shirked or turned, and the diary of actual travel is trans- 12 INTRODUCTION. lated without curtailment. I have illustrated the obscure passages by reference to other and later writers, especially to the work of MM. Monteiro and Gamitto, ' 0 Muata Cazembe.'* Finally, the reader must to a certain extent rely upon his author, and allow due weight to the results of study and experience. Had Dr. de Lacerda lived to print his book, he would doubtless have explained the meanings of all the native words scattered so profusely over the following pages. They have given me considerable trouble, which has not always been crowned with success.! After consulting the usual works, such as the well-known ' Ensaios '^of Captain Lopez de Lima,$ I had recourse to my " African " friends, and I desire particularly to record my gratitude for the readiness with which Dr. John .Kirk, formerly of the Zambeze Expedition, at present of Zanzibar, replied to my troublesome applications. "^iyT^tnife attend his next venture ! there is no man who deserves it better. This journey of Dr. de Lacerda shows that the Portuguese never abandoned the idea of a " viagem a contracosta," and we can hardly characterise their claims to having crossed Africa as " hanging on a slender fibre." Without mentioning the infor mation given by Godinho and De Jarric, or the well-known journey of the Pombeiros, we find that in_ 1845-47 the lands of J^Mwata ya Nvo." on the highroad across the continent, were visited by Joaquim Eodriguez Graga, and shortly after wards by the late Ladislaus Magyar, if what he reported was a fact. In 1854 the servants of A. F. F. da Silva Porto crossed Africa in company with " three Moors," returning from Ben- guela. In the same year Mr. Messum wrote that he had heard of a great bte in the interior from a Portuguese major whom * ' O Muata Cazembe,' &c. ' Diario da Expedicao Portugueza, noa annos de- 1831 e 1832.' Lisbon, Imprensa Nacional, 1854. t Such words, for instance, as "Bacaja," " Calamanhas " (Collomanhas), " Douros Sortidos, and " Cherves," have not been explained by me I have in vain turned over every dictionary in the College Library of S. Paulo BrazU I ' Ensaios sobre a Statistica das Possessoes Portuguezas na Afiica' Occidental e Oriental,' por Josfi Joaquim Lopez de Lima. Lisboa, na Imprensa Nacional 1846 I heard at S. Paulo de Loauda that several Portuguese officials had taken this excellent book m hand with the view of bringing it up to modern wants, but that all had died one after the other at the shortest possible interval INTRODUCTION. 13 he had met at Benguela, and who had crossed over from Mozambique. He is probably not the only one of these mute" Ipglorious transitists. Captain Briant, employed by Mr. Brook- house of Salem, Massachusetts, saw in 1843 men who had passed from shore to shore, and ascertained the possibility of, establishing a profitable commercial intercourse ; whilst in 1863 Captain Harrington, employed by the same house, proved that the only difficulty was a narrow strip of desert subtending the' south-west coast. ('African Eepository,' No. 12, December 1868, Washington.) And now to enter.j'^^" *hh W'^'^]^ "^ tbingH The first letter addressed toD. Eodrigo de Sousa Coutinho contains the pre liminary remarks upon the expedition proposed by Dr. de Lacerda, showing his conviction that a journey intended to cross Africa should begin at Mozambique and end at Angola. The original memorandum — undated, but certainly written before 1798 — is preserved in the library of the Count of Linhares, and it is offered to the " Associapao Maritima," of Lisbon, by its ex-President, the Count de Sa da Bandeira. In conclusion, I would warn the reader that the Notes are all written by me, except where otherwise specified, and that I, not my author, assume the whole responsibility of having written them. PEELIMINAEY OBSERVATIONS, &c.,^ BT DE. rBANCISCO JOSil MAKIA DE LACEEDA. The glory of the explorer, most illustrious and excellent Sir, surely transcends the fame of the conqueror, who is more often the bane of, instead of being a boon to, humanity. The memory of a Henry t laying at Silves the foundations of Asiatic disco very, which justified his noble motto, " talant de bien faire,"" is greater and dearer to us than the names of a Philip and an Alexander, who by intrigues and right of might forged the chains of slavery for Macedonia and Greece, and who usurped the proud title " Victor of Asia." J These, spurred on by ambition, plundered fellow-men of their most sacred birthright,. liberty. Thatjnost generous soul, not satisfied with the splen- athwMt ih^ gloom of ignorance, promoted by commerce and agriculture the material prosperity of barbarous peoples, and in troduced to them the knowledge of the True Faith.§ It is evi dent whose name best deserves a niche in the Temple of Fame. These thoughts, long brooding in my mind, were aroused by hearing' the (to me) most gratifying intelligence that your Excellency, with the view of establishing land-communication between the Eastern and the Western coasts of Africa, and of cutting off the long and perilous passage round the Cape of * This letter, without date, is addressed to D. Rodrigo de Sousa Coutinho, the Minister of State. The original MS. is in the library of the Coude de Linhares. f D. Henrique the Virgin, of whom our classic poet sang — 1' The Lusitaniau prince, who, heaven-inspired. To love of useful glory roused mankind. And in unbounded commerce mixed the -world." X The sentiment is' amiable, patriotic, nnd good, but is it true ? The answer will depend upon how we read history. To me Alexander is the first person of .the triad which humanity has as yet produced ; the other two being Juhus Cfflsar .and Napoleon Bonaparte. Moreover, the earliest weapgr, nf prncrrpai ia inTni-i-<.KiY j;^,jmd.wMl8LiihiRjdald6iLHgffl:ea3Jiag^^ § In our days we should pass over these -words. But the old Portuguese were „£am6st in.iheir reliance upoupropagandism, and this-oftenunsolfidj.mQtiye.Iuns like a thi-ead ofgqld through the coarse web of their luxury, cruelty..JUid oovetous- ness. ¦ " -«.f ¦ PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 15 Good Hope, had proposed to explore the vast unknown interior, and the unvisited regions lying to the East of Benguela. The experience of years spent in travelling over those countries prepared me to expect great advantages from the undertaking suggested by your patriotism. I knew, also, that the enterprise had been planned by sundry generals and governors, the first of whom was the illustrious D. Francisco Innocencio da Sousa-- Coutinho,* Governor of Angola, whose prudence and courteous- ness, whose wisdom and integrity, will never be forgotten by those he ruled. Honour cannot but result to you from carrying out a project which has attracted the attention of your illus trious and excellent progenitor — a project right worthy of a minister who is actuated by zeal for his country's good, for the glory of his nation, and for the benefit of his sovereign. These, Sir, are words from the heart, not from the tongue. These are the motives which induce me to place before a truth- loving minister the fruits of my long experience, in the humble hope that they will add a mite towards the success of the glorious design. I now proceed to offer a short geographical description of the African interior, as far as is known to me, with a general notice of its natives — their customs, their character, their government,. their religion, and %kig^^:i4gSaj:S^.a.tJ3,ft,^hitea. whnTTl thfj , always regard with sus^gicion.Y^ Iwould also record something ofTneT^nyTalSHtepromTctions of the soil, and the notable advantages which will accrue, from the proposed exploration, to our commerce and to the Crown. And, lastly, I will offer the most practicable measures for ensuring the success of the journey. ^ The great and fertile country known as Benguela J borders northwards upon Angola, being separated from it only by the Aco Eiver,§ near the Presidio or fortified frontier-post, Pedras de Ponguandongo.il To the south it extends to the country of the * The forty-ninth Governor of Angola in 1764, one of the most active and practical of his order. " »^ f Instinctively, as wild beasts hate their tame congeners. ^\ X The word is said to mean •" the defence." § Dr. Livingstone (' Missionaiy'lravels m Southern Africa,' chap, xxi.) write3» " Haco," after a branch of the Kimbonda or Ambonda family. II Dr. Livingstone (chap. xxi. p. 421) sketches and describes the column- shaped conglomerate spits of " Pimgo Andongo " — the modem form of our text. Captain Lopez de Lima ('Ensaios,' &c.) also -writes Pedras de Pungo Andongo. Usually the site is called the Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo ; and for a long - time it wp.fl g l^i"'1 '}f .Ttnt^ony Bay fgr p9].iticaLeailes. Mr. Oooley makes Pungo a Ndongo to mean the crest or impending heights of Ndongo or the interior of Angola ('Inner Africa Laid Open,' p. 6). "Pongo," curious to say, is a word known in South America, e.g., Pongo de Manseriche ; this, however, as De la Con- damine tells us, should be " Punou," a port. 16 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. Ovampos, beyond Cabo Negro.* Westward is the South At lantic Ocean, whilst to the east it stretches nearly 500 leagues <1500 English geographical miles between 13° 24' and 37° east long. Greenwich) j to the coast of Mozambique. On both extremities, it contains much cultivated land, of which I will speak presently. The population is immense,| the tribes being under governments of different extent and authority, exercised by certain chiefs, called " Sovas," § and by their feudal vassals or dependent " Sovetas." —*"¦*• Unusually strong and large-framed — indeed, approaching the gigantic — these negroes are much more valued in the Brazil "than those o| Angola. || They are ready and dexterous in hand ling fire-arnte^ which we taught them to use ; they have guns in plenty, and they can put in order and repair any part except the barrels. They would laugh to scorn our military expedi tions, were it not for our field-pieces, of which they stand in great fear. , False and utterly treacherous, their friendship for the white man results from his importing articles now indispensable to them.lT They never lose the chance of robbing and murdering a visitor ; but, fearing the anger of the ruling powers, they con fine these atrocities to the far interior, where the outrage cannot f be punished. E.veo J^bJlst plotting his destruction, they never "«drQBJI;h-e mask.before^e'~European. leigning entire subiecSon to him, and humbly addressing Eim as " Maneputo."** Cannibals ^ * Here Bartholomew Diaz placed his PadrSo, or memorial pillar. It was in Lat. S. 15° 40' 42", and Long. E. (Greenwich) 11° 53' 20", between Mossamedes or Little Pish Bay, the Bissungo Bitlolo of the natives, to the North (S. Lat. 15° 13'), and Great Fish Bay to the South (S. Lat. 16° 30' 12"). According to the 'African Re pository ' (No. 12, of Dec. 1868, Washington), Little Fish Bay is called by the nati-ttgsGaconda^^nd Mossamedes was founded in 1840 by Major Garcia and three ¦commercial houses of Loanda. v t In these papers the leagjigjs the smaller^gigasuia.of >20 (not 15) to the degree, ttagfe^BngiialLgfiflgcaiB^fflm^lesr The larger league still used in the Brazil is four miles long. Monteiro and Giamitto (' 0 Muata Cazembe,' p. xxi.) count by ,, the league ofilOM paces — a^verjlJ^aft^^taBdard. Mr. Cooley makes the Portu guese league about =20,00ininpShfeet (more exactly 20,250 feet =6750 yards). X The population of Africa cannot yet be computed as our popular writers have done. Every traveller finds some thickly inhabited country, which statisticians S^kve neglected to take into consideration. Thus, to quote no other authority, the late Mr. Keith Johnston's magnum opus, the 'Physical Atlas' (fol., 1856), ^iCopied in that excellent compendium, Mrs. SomerviUe's ' Physical Geography,' ¦'makes the 11,376,000 square miles of the "Dark Continent " inhabited by only 60,000,000. This is not half thejHga of British India ! § Sova, Soba, or S6va, is jee Gango River, a southern branch of the Coanza of^ S.' Paulo de Loanda and-'the Cubango, the westernmost head-stream of the great Chobe. Sometiniea/&ey are called with the personal aflSx Mu-" Ganguelas ; " they are said to be. gogd archers ar'^ -""-^ foYqpi/^i.a t The ".Banza ^y a large, tne 1j1 pata or I iibatta a small, village ; the " Cubata," is a single nut.' ' Tfie European reader must bear in mind that all the s^l'ements cover much ground and contain very few inhabitants. X Tlya Tvtjigtiii? taken with manv a pp:ain. and it shaudd, be.. rcinemt),^gd,|hat a ^Brazilian sp^itks. W e may sately, however, assert that the interior isneallny7j_ cuiiiiiill'yU.' wph the seaboard. ^^ § Maize is locally known to the Portuguese as " Milho Burro." The greater Millet (milho grosso) is the Jowarri. Du'IgJl- Ta^ijg, MtamA. or Hrj^ciisSornhvm. Monteiro and Gamitto, however," translate milho'Cf rosso by^'Zea maiz. TheTraser Milho (hiilho miudo) is the Bajri or Panicum spicatum (Roxb.). I can only sug gest that Luco or Mosango means either the Pennisetum, or the East Indian Jiagjj^ or Nanihni (in Portuguese Naxenim), the Arabic Dukhun, the Kisawihih Uwimbi {Meusine coracano). ¦ <¦•¦•¦ II The meaning of " pane zuarte," according to Monteiro and Gamitto (Appen dix BJ, is a. blue cotton, the best being that of Jambaceira. In those days it ¦ "SfflO. 'ITie - was warth 2$ 400. Tue " pauno " or " pane " genefall'^ 'I3'111l(!"''|Tobe ' ' of Zanzibar, two faflhoms in length, or its equivalent. i*^""* V ^e^taneio means a man of the SertSo (said to be an abbreviation of "desertao," desert), yhWh, in the Portuguese wofld, usually denotes the far interior, where "Ihere is mtle population. It must not be confounded with 'iSgjiimJati," which is applied to an explorer of the Sertao. _ , 18 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. interior. There is no want of water-melons,* melons, gourds, and pumpkins, of different kinds and sizes, sweet potatoes (batatas, the Convolvulus batata), manioc, and fine large sugar- canes. We find guavas, oranges, and lemons. The land will grow all manner of seed, and it would, if cultivated, produce the finest fruits. Iron, which abounds in the interior, is an article that interests us not a little.t The negroes smelt this metal from the stones everywhere containing it, and, considering the absence of tools and labour-saving appliances, it is astonishing how well and how cheaply they make their assegais, chains, and similar articles. They have also, as I have seen, sulphur from the vast mines of Dombo da Guinzamba, a league and a half from Bahia Farta, on the seaboard. There is an even greater abundance of excellent copper, which they convert into ornaments, collars, wristlets, and anklets. The many kinds of useful woods equal those of the Captaincy of S. Salvador da Bahia in the Brazil. In its present state, their export commerce consists principally of slaves, ivory, and wax, which is sent out in quantities, despite the destructive style of collection, the hives being thrown into the fire, in order that the combs may be taken. These blind barbarians recognise no divinity, nor do they show any remnant of true religion.^ Superstitious in the jf * When marching through East Africa from Zanzibar to the Lake Tanganyika, T found water-melons in many places ; but, as a rule, they were hard, colourless, and wanting flavour. t In a subsequent page of this Letter (195), Dr. de Lacerda thus reverts to this subject : — " The iron equals the Swedish and the Biscayan ;^»iji^^g)_pr runrujngjjcbaiii £aL,twelve slaves, may be bought for two cloths, orttddlafSBialCif "cents. The Governor 'Coutinho judiciously built, in 1767, ironworks at the town of Oejras in Golungo-Alto : they failed^^becauae each Governor — our iiKy„J&TOgI)ift«the.&«t in ¦Jhjfi f.r>ficaije3 '— dejightsto ae3toif^pnSSp.iu,a..of .M§..BISWcessor.~ As our ships carry iron to Asia, tEirffiSta" will give valuable results if prepared in the interior, and brought to the coast by the Cunene Eiver. The same ships homeward bound c^n load -with .bars, which sell everywhere. jj^ " Nor is the excellent copper, of which mines have already been discovered, l.es3 worthy of consideration. The negroes make of it their necklaces, ijaniUjas QsSSSisi^i aiid fiflfeiSte CS^ig/ '^''^es like carpet-rods, twisted round the legs and wQj3UB.inany , parts .oiAJnca). -»-"— —iu—....^,.^ ™™™~„™=^.»....-,, " There is also a great quantity of sulphur. I myself saw a large digging in JDombe da Guinzamba, five leagues south of Benguela, and one and a half from Bahia Farta on the coast. " The timber of the interior is like that of Bahia in the Brazil, equally good for -building and for other purposes. Can any one despise such sources of wealth, which will not only stunulate our commerce, but will also render us independent of other nations.? " ^^ I The great Kafir race ignores the idea o^ deity. In the ' Lake Eegions of Central Africa' (vol. ii., chap, xis..) I have attempted to account for this fact by their deficiency in the moral or sentimental development; and it js-j> queotioii. wligjillfitiaiffl.ej.ftl man dj,d,RQt begin his worshi^^f the ancestral umbriajpng ages PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS, w •extreme, they hardly possess a worship to which we may apply the name of faith; their veneration, in fact, is confined to reverence for certain ancient Sovas or chiefs, distinguished hy0 valour or justice. Without doubt some are baptized, but they behave like the other heathen, their ignorance of the mystery being extreme, and their contempt for all practical religion* being consummate. They aspire, it is true, to baptism, as thte °^4BsaiBa, nf , ,CQZfiaing..,aBcLiik^j™&jaipMy ^^^ would assert that they are Christians, whilst remaining in their deplorable pristine state of no-religion, polygamy,* and. ^ barbarism. Let us now specify the advantages which such an expedition would bring to commerce, to the Crown, and to the peoples themselves. It would extend our conquests over lands and*< tribes hitherto unknown. It would open a line of communica tion between the Eastern and the Western Coasts, which might thus mutually support each other ; whilst in the case of one being attacked the other would offer a sure refuge to oui> •colonists. Ships from Asia would discharge cargo at Mozam bique, and goods could be carried overland to Benguela without the danger and the delay of doubling the Cape of Storms. Thus the Custom-house duty would increase, and the industry of the whites, as well as of the blacks, would be fostered. For better transport than the riding oxen (boiscajgllos) now used, camels f iJia^liimasissa 'before the ghosts became heroes and ^ods... adoration. y St the author teUs us that they are a large-size^^.race.-gjaalssajnajtbeietoe has not injmred thCTa gh^sically. AndiJj^J^^2^«.Afiiiffiu.kJbioJx..P'JEii- Ta^ecTr^^^Sm'^^Owarms vfHW'ihe .^igsies^an, whilst.aaea^aBMHiia TCceland is 8£arselj popimted.andhjQgbfflBMJis Cyprus is almoAgLiieflert. ~~ f "Notelby the Viscount 3e Sa da BajidejlC: — "In 1838, the Home Government imported into Angola camels from the^pSnary Islands ; but the experiment failed =for want of care. [The same has lately happened to Ceara in the Brazil.] " The river transit of Angola, like that of Mjiddle Brazil, is very limited. Yet steam communication has long been proposed between Loanda the capital, and the Falls of Cambambe, the highest point to which the Coanza Eiver is navigable. From that place a road for carts or beasts of burden, might be run through Pungo-Andongo with depots and markets on the way, to the uttermost Por tuguese frontier. Thus there would be an easy exportation of ivory, -wax, ¦^oopper, and other licit articles, a traffic which would soon abolish the internal^ -SlaVeJ^^^e. ' .t.^ . - '"«*-*-il*..*."*»i.w*-^Ar.h,.W..rtflA!r^-v--W...^- .^....^^'¦(-'W««».-rt!*!^ "frfiSe is now no want of energy in the colony. When I visited S. Paulo da Loanda in August 1863, surveys for a railroad between the capital and Calumbo on the Coanza Eiver had been laid before the Government.] " Angola, however, still suffers from aiL inveterate lepal abuse [the ' be^ar ' of jlndig;aid_gjn^l, corxsg,_£rfOTcedlabgjjj:, a system wnich no longer prevails iu^ Portuguese settlements, norevSanSTBOTguela. ,Jfen ' in libambo ' (as the local phrase is), or .with. D-eckSJBiiJHBSiSS.S^?™?' ^^""^ coffiTpelled, by "blows and threats, ' to carry cargoes hundredsofle^^^JTfMrfew paltry reis. This process has de populated the country, whose people have fled to the neighbouring regions, in-5, iflioting great loss of revenue upon the Portuguese Government. [Compare Dr. Xivingstone, ' First Exploration,' chap. xx. Also M. Valdez, vol. ii. chap, iv.] 0 2 20 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. might be introduced, and rah^ps the zebra might. be,tamgd.*- Besides which there are thousSadsof negro-porters (carregadores), each carrying, for many leaguej^nd for small pay, a pacJTof cloth worth $120. ^T The new possessors of Tal!^ Bay (the English) requiig^careM^ .watcliing,,.or our want_of energy will,, enable^ them ._t,o,„extena" themselves northwards.t Who will prevent these new colonists from selling the slaves of our southern interior, thus palpably injuring our trade, which has already lost one-third of its value? Similarly the captives of our northern interior are exported via Ambriz and the ports lying to the north of Angola.^ owK Couti " The Governor-General J.. Francisco Innocepclci, deSotaar Coutinho first pro hibited, in 1764, this abuse, wliicK was, hoWe-ver, re-esla'blishea by nis successor. In 179i, another Governor tried to stop the cruelties inflicted by white merchants 'upon their bearers, especially at the Fair of (^ssauge (Peira de Casanji). Antonio ijgSaldanhaJaGa^, (afterwards 'IDbu'nt'lDf'l'OTS) Santo and 56th_Gaxfirnor), in JsffT, propose3~aTo?ar abolition of the system to the Hom^^bvemment. The latter, in April 3, 1796, had already directed the Governor of Benguela to prevent the traders forcibly taking men from the Sovas or native chiefs, unless by regular agreement, and on payment according to the value of the loads. Finally, a Por- taria (Royal Order) of January 31, 1839, abolished the custom, and allowed the dilacks to dispose of their labour like white men. " Only time, however, can do away with the system. It is useless for the law rigorously to suppress the abuse, when the local authorities are compelled to wink at it. Withoutjt,, indged, the natives jvjU_j;(gt,aad£atalI The trader also finds it a great economy. Tle''jaj's; ¦fdr''''iiisSnce7$ito'fS"per head of negro for long journeys, and perhaps as much to the District Commander, if the latter be not over-conscientious. It is evident that any other process would be impossible oa Account of the expense." [Dr. Livingstone, ' First Expedition,' chap, xix., has discussed the question, but we see how greatly he erred when he asserted, " This system of compulsory carriage of merchandise was adopted in consequence of the ^ucrease in numbers and acti-yity of our cruisers, which took place in 1845."] *' This was written, N.B., long before the days of Mr. Earey. t Cape Town, founded by the Dutch in 1650, taken ' by trie English in 1795, restored in 1802, retaken in 1806, and given over to English possession ever since. Tho prophecy in the text has been lately fulfilled, owing to the discovei-y of the diamond diggings and gold mines. X Note by the Viscount de Sa da Bandeira : — " The author refers to the fact that, in his day, the greater part of the commerce trf the Portuguese interior profited only the strangers frequenting the ports of Northern Angola. With respect to this old grievance there is a MS. memorandum of J.M. Garcia de Castro Barbosa (dated 1772-1779), attributing this influx of ' interlopers ' to the carelessness of the Angolan governors. These ofScers had abandoned the Poi-tuguese factories in Loango, Cabinda, Sonho, Ambriz, and others south of Capo Lopo Gon^alves (Anghcii, Cape Lopez, lat. S. 0° 36' 10", and long. E., Greenwich, 8° 40' 0"), which commanded the coast and the rivers, especially the great Zaire or Congo Eiver. " To keep off these interloping strangers, we built during the last century tho inland fort of S. Jose de EncOge (Presidio das Pedras de Encoge, on the Onze Eiver between the Bengo Eiver and Ambriz), and on the coast at Novo Redondo (lat. S. 11° 36' 42") at Cabinda, and on the Loje or Ambriz Eiver, which latter, however, -was presently abandoned. That of Cabinda, built in 1783, was destroyed in 1784 by a French naval force, because it embarrassed French slavers : hence tho Convention of 1780 held between France and Portugal, whereby the latter was limited to trade in the jiorts below Capo Padron (Cabo do Padrao, lat. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 21 The cause of our trade's decay is simply this : the African lias no objection to walking 150 miles if he can get for his slaves| more and better cloth than can be afforded by our traders ; whilst the latter here make smaller profits than their rivals. The proposed expedition would, doubtless, throw an obstacle in the way of the English, \vho, on their part, have offered con^ siderable rewards for discovering and opening up the interior. Moreover, the heart of the country, thus flanked on both sides by our possessions, will be more securely subjected to us, and the natives, knowing that Mozambique and Sena can aid Angola and Benguela^ and vice versa, will abstain from plundering an* from ill-treating our now defenceless Sertanejos. Thus com merce will be free, and life and property will be safe. Unex pected assistance can also be afforded by establishing a few •" Presidios," which have ever had the effect of repressing bar barous insolence. I would now submit to your Excellency a thought which has long occupied my mind, and which, if confirmed, will produce incalculable advantages. S. 6*^ 8' 0"), the southern point of the Zaire Eiver mouth. In the treaty of July 28, 1817, between Great Britain and Portugal, the latter is confirmed in possession of the coast and the interior, between 8° and 18^ of S. lat., or almost as fa*" as Cabo Frio (S. lat. 18"^ 23' 0"). England also recognises the reservation of Portu guese rights upon Molembo (Malemba Bay, a fe-w miles north of Cabinda) and Cabinda, or from 5° 12' 0" to 18° S. lat, which excludes Loango (4° 39' 30" S. lat.) but contains the mouth of the Zaire or Congo Eiver. This Zaire, indeed, is speci fied by the Carta Constitucional as forming part of the empire. " Angola is now in the same condition as when she found it necessary to build these forts. The Lo.inda custom-house suffers by ships discharging cargo at a distance to avoid dues. When the Loje fort was built, the Sova of Mussul and other chiefs came to do homage at Loanda, whereby the revenue was increased. For this purpose, and to impede slave-exportation, the Home Government directed, in 1838, the Governor-General to found a presidio in Mossamedes, or Little Fish< Bay (15° 13' lat. S.). This also was tried and succeeded. Others were after wards ordered to he built at Ambriz, on the Zaire, at Cabinda and at Molembo, -^vith directions to admit foreign merchandise at moderate rates. The measure -was not carried out, although it would have equally benefited Angola, by encouraging legal commerce, and the strangers who now suffer from the caprices of native chiefs. " Such forts are necessary for the protection of national and foreign commerce in all the territories recognised as Portuguese, and extending from Loango to Cabo Frio. They will also prevent such disputes as have lately happened within the last twenty years between Portugal and Great Britain about Lourenjo Blarques Bay (near Delagoa Bay) and the Bolama Islands (near Sierra Leone) ; and with the French about the Sego Factory on the Casamansa Eiver (near Gambia). Nor must it be forgotten that the French have lately taken one of tha^ Comoro Islands (Mayotte), and another in the Mozambique Channel (Nosi Bejff^ besides founding two new factories on the coast of Minas and on the Gabao (Gaboon) Eiver, although the latter is less than 2° north of Cape Lopo, and traded with our islands of Principe (Prince's) and S. Thome (St. Thomas)." N.B.— The mouth of the Gaboon Eiver is in 0° 30' 30" S. lat., and " Cape Lopez " in 0° 3G' 10"- Diff. 0° 5' 40" nearly G miles. 22 PRELIMINARY 'OBSERVATIONS. The Eio- Sena* is celebrated for the volume and the magnifi cence of its stream, and for the wealth of its auriferous basin. We know nothing, of its source, except that it rises in Monomotapa,t and proudly precipitates itself into the Mozambique Channel, where our fort Quilimane J lies. Now, in this part of Western Africa the most important stream between the Zaire (Congo R.) and the Cape of Good Hope is the Cunene, an African word meaning " great," or " grand." § Rismg in Candimbo, near CacondaNova,|l it flows to the south (-west?),. and after absorbing the Cubangol" and the Cutado ** Elvers, it passes, 30 leagues from its source, through the lands of the Sovas of Lebando and Luceque. Here it is already so_ con siderable a stream that it cannot be forded, and the Chief of Luceque derives revenue from his ferry-canoes. Thence bending^ eastward, it reaches, after a total course of 50 leagues, the lands of Humbe Grande or Monomotapa,tt where it is 540 fathoms ¦ (600 toesas) broad. Beyond that point, nothing can be said of * The river running past Sena, i.e., the Zambeze. t Dr. Livingstone (First Exp.,, chap, ixx.) renders Muene Mtape, the " Chier •Tfftape," headman of the " Bambire, a tribe of the Banyai." Of these more here-- after. The older Portuguese applied it to the whole extent of country lying behind «¦ the seaboard of Mozambique. 'The derivation is Mwene (or M'ana) and M'tapa, or Mutapa (the name of the head district), and thus the title is iiXoidrf^aCtapa." ; The moderiTlaaigg'TsjGgeJIjM. and the king is known as Mambo-a-Chedima. It has greatly fallen in importance since it was the rival of 'JllQabemuga"' (jajamwezi), the Lake Empire to the north. An account of it is given in Blonteiro and Gamitto (p."83). X A town on the northern branch of the Zambeze Delta. The word is Kilima- ""ni, " in " or "&om the hillock," and the orthography greatly varies, as Quili mane, Quelimane,'lltfuiimau'e', &o. § The English have injured it by their usual system of nomenclature. They miscall it the.^' Nourse Eiser." The Portuguese also know it as Bio das Trombas (EijCTofEoffiW]^|^MSwell), and lately as Eio dos Elephantes. '" '"" — ' -" ' ll There'areTwo'TJac^das. In 1864 the native Jaga, or chief, attacked the then new "Presidio " of Caconda (now Caconda Velha), biult in a.d. 1682, mur- ?'Q.ered all the Portuguese garrison, and destroyed the fort and the church. The outrage was punished in 1685, the Jaga was imprisoned at Loanda, and the present Caconda Nova, to the south of the older settlement, was built and placed, under ajOapitao-Mdr. ^ ThjB CtlBUilJgU'itiver must not be confounded with the stream passing by the ¦ district of the chief Cabango, Dr. Livingstone's Chihombo. The Cubango is the westernmost head stream of the Chobe, a great feeder of the Zambeze. Mr. Cooley throws his " Cobango " into the Lake Ngami ; Mr. James Macqueen has placed it accurately. At the head-points the basins of the Zambeze and the Cunene Elvers are separated by only a (^ miles. ** Can this be the " Qv^ei^nda Eiver," the N. N. easterly influent of the Cunene ? v/ tt " Humbe Grande and Monomotapa," says the Viscount de Sa da Ban deira, in his notes to Dr. Lacerda's letter, "being separated by a region 250 to 300 leagues broad, it is not probable that they are the same country as the author seems to believe." Humbe is the region lying to the north of and close to the central course of the Cunene. For a popular account of it, see ' Six Years of a Traveller's Life,' by M. Valdez, vol. ii. p. 355. The last traveller who visited it- was M. B. T. Brochedo. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 23 the great and famous stream, save that it takes an easterly course. Can this be the Eio Sena ?* I am persuaded, by two reasons, that it is.t Firstly, after exploring part of this river, and con sulting all the maps of the coast from the Adamastor stream to Benguela, I find none whose size entitles it to be considered the mouth of the mighty Cunene. Secondly, though the Rio Sena boasts of his auriferous sands, the Cunene is not on this point inferior. When accompanying the unfortunately abortive expedition which was sent in 1787 to explore the course of the Cunene, I myself saw a negress who had been captured in th^ lands ofAcabona, three leagues from the Cunene, aT\(j ]imit,fflpb<^ with SloiiomQi^Da. Her head-dress was composed of golden laminae, about the size of ordinary spangles (lantiioilas). pierced with a few curly hairs, rove through and knotted for security... When asked whence these things came, she replied, "from a very large river not far off; that after rain a large quantity, could be found, but that no one prized them."f What river can this be but the Cunene ? And as it flows from Humbe towards the Mozambique coast, where our Sena, as we know, discharges its waters, the latter is, in my humble opinion, the same Cunene under a different name. Should this conjecture prove correct, and should the line be opened by Government, it will carry to Benguela cargoes landed by ships from Asia, and thus Mozambique as well as Benguela will become an emporium second to none. The inter-coastal and overland route once practicable, native guides will be forth coming, and nothing will be easier than the exploration of the stream above mentioned. I leave the other advantages to your Excellency's consideration : let me now consider the means of connecting the eastern with the western shores of our colonies ; * I cannot understand why Dr. Livingstone wiU call the river " Zambesi.' The orthography is distinctly ^^^aoaiieaE." Mr. Cooley ('Geogr. of N'yassi,' p. 45), writes Zambezi, and translates it the ",fish-river." Bu^t he derives the word from the Congoese and Angola "mbize" and ""Wnge " (Bi'i), which mean fish. In another place he makes Zambesi the river par excellence, and its derivatives, Ohambesi, Liambesi, and Yabenzi, to mean " river of meat," or " of animal food J^' (' Nature,' Nov.- 18, 1869), going far too far for a derivation. Dr. Livingstone (First Exp., chap, xi.) informs us that "Leeambye" is the "lai'ge river," or the river par excellenee, and that Luambeji (Luambegi), Luambesi, Ambezi, Ojim^- besi, and " Zambesi ' are all dialectic varieties, " the magnificent stream beingr* the main drain of the country" — -which signifies nothing. The Eev. Horace Waller, F.E.G.S., makes " Zambesi " to mean '^the Washer," hence its frequent * recurrence under several forms in rivers liable to high UOUds. t See the end of these observations for the note by the Viscount Sii da Bandeira. |. X "Jhey (Mricans) always. jp.JxLgJLca-aiL.ans'yer to, ^ytease.^ if any one I jflgedJtoffi a' nugget°^ggldjEi^ would generaU^Bay ]BlthggB.,.8ha:roded in/ Seir couatry?'-— (Dr. lanngs'tone^jTfirHlSxpl^ola^ 24 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. for which end it will be necessary to describe the terra cognita, that we may better understand how much of the incognita awaits discovery. All the Nano* country between Caconda Nova to the north, and the Aco (Aso) River, is ruled by the four principal Sovas (neglecting the Sovetas) of Baluudo do Ambo (or Hambo) of Quiaca, of Quitata, and of Galangue.t The southern interior contains, besides the chieftains subject to those four, the powerful families of Quilengues, of Quipungo, of Gambos (Sambos ?) and of Avila. The latter is the formidableCagm|j whose sway ex^eicda-JMEiaii»ih£L^broa(i lands , of .ifehe«Claiil3^_ MoTOaulmcas, and the Mococorocas of Cabo Negro, as far as the Hottentots : f "^lese^'once a subject people, were enabled, by the ipi^relessness of his great officers (Ambas), to shake off his yoke. Here are about 80 leagues, more or less, known and subject to the Portuguese Crown, north of Benguela, and crossing Balundo, via Quissangue, to the Apo (Aso) River. South of Benguela we have 100 leagues ^j^gaifi-fiouiijtiy, hglibjuaucjiaiSSJs cfQwUgmaia.. Lombimbe, Quilengues, Bemb^^Quipungo. and Gambos (Sam bos?), to the Humbe country, divided by tire" great Cunene River. Travelling eastward from Benguela, by the road of Saoajaaiala. -CafiOnilfL-ISMaj iMonhembas, Galangue, and Obie, lands watered by the useful and well-known Coanza River, we have another tract of 100 leagues. There must be 80 leagues more from the Coanza to the Sova of Levar,§ a peaceful line lately opened by teiy oner gXnd." f // * ^J^jjyjfjg," 'j^fejUnos," or 'ij^^^gg,^" is said to mean " higl^and," from the prncQ^v moimtamsoetween Ou^^i^es and Caconda Velha. w^^^^ craggy mountains, oetween Quilengues and Caconda Velhii. t A popular-'account of tbese and the other little-known districts is given in 1^861 by M. Valdez, vol. ii. chap. 9. X Possibly the Kasakere or Bushmen cast of the Cunene, as laid down in Dr. Livingsjtdne's map. § M6te 'by the Visoount de S.v da Bandeira: — " Eevar is the ' Loval ' of M. Alexandre Jose Botelho de YasconceUos (the fifth Governor of Benguela, at the end of the last century), who places it south of the Molua country ; - it appears to lie to the south-west of the Cazembe's frontier. That author and Dr. de Lacerda both agree that the road to it from Benguela passes through Baluudo and Bihe, and crosses tbe Coanza Eiver. But their dis tances greatly differ. From Benguela to the Coanza, Dr. de Lacerda makes ISO leagues; M. Botolho 148, and 191 to Quinhama, the hcadquai-ters of the Sova of Loval, a total of 339 leagues. Summing and dividing the two (viz. 180 -t- 148 = 328) we obtain from Benguela to tbe Coanza Eiver 1C4 leagues, and from the Coanza Eiver to Loval 135 leagues (180 -|- 339 = 519), a sum ofiiR9." Writing from S. Felipe de Benguela, on August 1 , 1799, M. Botelho de Vas- concellos, gives the following account of the kingdom of Loval and its road from Benguela (p. 159, No. 4, ' Annaes Maritimos, 1844) : — A Bahiano fBrazilian'^.-.^osp dc Assuinocao e tfcUo. guided by a native of ' ' -> -tvit.il nrnfit lint iiu.th ' Loval, .travelled there t.\yf:n Tvit.ii profit l-mt -nuVfl g()i^;i^^^liardshii]s.jimL.tUuager. On his tliird'mafcViTie'was accompanied by onfi. Alexandre da'silva Teixeira. of .Sa:;tarem, who afterwards related to mo his journey "as iil'loWS I " "•'"'•¦"*'¦' " They left Benguela with their stores on September 22, 1795, and slept at Catnnibella (four leagues) ; tho next stages, all in this Government, were Quis- niBLIMINAEY OBSERVATIONS. 2.5 our traders, who, being hospitably received, might, if assisted, have gone farther. Thus, from Benguella, eastward, we have 180 leagues of well-trodden country, and about 50 west of IMozambique. Of a total of 500, but 270 remain for ex ploration. As regards the ^personnel of an expedition we require a few educated officers, for the purpose of using instruments and iield-pieces ; and, at most, 400 well-armed men, who should be^ trained not to draw the sword except in the last extremityr I have learned from experience that-,presents and offers of our Sovereign's jJ^^^JS^^h&xhiiT^^^^^^^^^r ^tiian blows and ^violence ;The latter always make the people arrci themselves againstiancied conquest and captivity intended by white men. This force should not demand much from the Treasury. Throughout the explored interior, on both sides, there are many white and mulatto traders, acclimatized and trained to travel. These " Sertanejos " might be induced to join the expedition by the gift of purely honorary titles, which, by the bye, they greatly covet, such as " Impacapeiros," " Atalaias," " Aventureiros," and " Guerra Preta. ' * The leader of 20 sange (20 leagues), Quibulia (' QuibuUe ' ? 24 leagues), Bailundo (35 leagues), Bihe' (35 leagues), and the Quanza or Coanza Eiver (30 leagues), a total of 148. Crossing that stream in the lands of Sova Angurucu, they made 36 leagues to Sova AnguUo, and then they struck the bush to avoid certain barbarous chiefsj^ -whose jealousy would have stopped them from trading with others. After six leagues they crossed tlie Eiver Cutia (an eastern infiuent of the CoanzaJ, 12 fathoms broad ; next at the same distance the Cice Eiver (Mr. Cooley makes it head the Coango), also 12 fathoms wide ; then to the source of the latter, 17 leagues, to the Muuhango Eiver (13 leagues), to the head-waters of the Luena (28 leagues, Loena, eastern influent of the Leeba Eiver ?), and to the frontier of Loval (35 leagues), governed by the Soveta Caquinga. Hence they made (50 leagues) the Great Libata (settlement) of the Sova Quinhama, which is nearly on the eastei-n frontier of Loval, a total of 191 leagues from the Coanza Eiver 4nd 339 from Benguela. " Loval is 60 by 10 leagues more or less, and contains many tribes. In front (east) it is bounded by the Sova-ship of Luy Amboellas, and on the right (south) by tiia pf^^YpjH^ul Amboellaa y}ii,fjfi^ of Ttnnrljif. s^nfl nniiiiii.ga ¦ on the left (north) by lords, vassals to th'e" great sova of the Moluas (the Miluas, or people of Musita ya Nvo), and in rear (west) by the Sovas Quiboque and Bunda. The Eios de Sena of Mozambique (i.e., tbe Zambeze Eiver, or its northern affluents) appeared to be near. The traders were hospitably received, business was prosperous, and tbey g found less robbery than in our ten-itory — tbe more we advaneethg^g^3-y|LlIaiiious re the people." 5usw& see the Portuguese, in 1799, pressing into the heart of the country^ visited by Dr. Livingstone. ' * The " Impa^eiro " now generally writtenjggjjjjjjgg^^o, means, " i^ot a sort of . -fi-titprpitiY "f ^^'•S6IB<''Wl?i''i" but a kind of militia, instituted in 1580 By'^J^SET 1'^ Dias de Novaes. conqueror and first goverriorpf, Angola. The literal sense is \ '"huntei'' Bl'lUt! Lmpaciissa." tbe tip'-pa ¦^y'''^ fnttra wliifb extend down the west^ coast of Atirica. Paul cTu Chaillu brought home a specimen from the Gaboon, wHere it is called Nyare. Mr. Cooley (' Inner Africa Laid Open,' p. 47) trans- 2.6 PEELIMINAEY OBSERVATIONS. armed men might receive a captain's commission ; of 30, that of sargento-m6r, and so forth, whilst a few chosen soldiers, ¦¦ reliable in case of need, would complete thajpartj. During- our war with the interior, in 1787, I saw 17 Men and a field- piece put to flight ths.^Qia_Q£_UuJaca and his 12,000 negroes, who dropped all the loot which they had just taken from the Gobaes.* It -^ould be advisable to prevent the expedition being en cumbered by the presence of common negroes, who, slow to attack and quick to fly, their sole object being plunder, dis- •xappear like lightning after the first shot. They often foment and begin quarrels with the natives, besides which they are a heavy burden upon the commissariat. But we might court the- company of the chiefs bordering on the Sena River, as they would influence the other headmen. This might be done by small presents which here, as amongst the Moors,t are indis pensable. Perhaps we might thus induce some Sova to join the expedition, or, at least, to supply provisions, guides, and ' interpreters. ¦^The presents to the Sovas and to ^e£2£gtousMa]ajtas,.-ar .councillors by whom they govern, would consist of a^^rg nf „Stt^rBales of the cloth preferred by the natives, and especially false coral and beads of sorts.| Also we should want cloaks of common broadcloth, trimmed with tinsel gold, large hats similarly ornamented, and canes Cbengallas') § with heads of gilt copper. Such a cloak, hat, and cane, with two ankers of rum lates it " Gm?" which is locally called NEumbo. Dr. Livingstone (' Second Ex pedition,' chap. xi. p. 237) says, the Emggigafso is^^ t^ha-Jmffa.1fl.at»Sgiu ; and in the same page we find the assertion,"''"no secret; ' society can be found among ¦the native Africans." Every tribe that I know, from the W3a2fe.-M.-MS Jaasah to the Camarones Hiver " has"its" societV built upoii "secret ordersTTn &,.„ .SyHjflSEjeHnasoiiryTTTie^' -^igBiBJ i^ •* sentinel; the " AYeniur^.o a volun- teer. and Guero' Preta (liteiallv'^ackLJfar "^ is a negr.Q..HaiiJ^ » This explains what we read in the' ola histories"oi Congo and' Angola, -where thousauds of negroes are defeated by dozens of Portuguese. -yhe,„Bedamn..^f l^^rghiaweMjJ^e^^^amefeeble -wl!Sn"'BHliema"wToler*"jL" " InTEe'OTgiSiTus Mouros (ot^^occo or of the East Indies ?). j In the text " Eoncalha, Velorio, and other Missanga." Eoncallia is explained by Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 23) to signify " pedras brancas," i. e., -white stoneware beads. We also read (p. 189) of Eoncalha Azu] (blue Eoncalha), and of " pedras leite," or milk stones. Velorio or Avelorio, is also a large opaque porcelain bead. Missanga, according to Vieyra is synonymous with " arrangoes," glass beads. Constancio explains it by a string of glass beads, the same as " Mites," which. Vieyra interprets a sort of porcelain bead, used as currency in Mozambique. The word is mostly applied to the red glass or porcelains, and in the text to- beads in general. ' § According to Dr. Kirk, now of Zanzibar, " bengallas de abada " are canes qf" JEliinocacaa.j!i2ffi' The Abada is called by thB"people PembereTand by the Por- tuguese umoorn., •«=«• w^mmmm PEELIMINAEY OBSERVATIONS. v / 27 and a few strings of beads, would be a sufficient " dash " to the most powerful Sova.* """"'^ Cattle, which abound in the interior, might be bought by way of rations. When these fail, powder and ball would supply the camp with meat of e^phants, rhinoceros, wild cattW(empa- cassas), zebras (impalalfcas ?), quaggas, wild goats (g^Sggs), and various antelopes (vgg^s), alLof them good eatingjl! well remember that our army, campaigning belweeh 1^74 and 177£ against the Spaniards on the River S. Pedro,:t lived entirely on meat and enjoyed excellent health. The choice of season is a vital condition of success. The best time to set out would be in May, during the cloudy bu1 dry weather, locally called Cacimbo, and corresponding with our winter. If the journey is not concluded, as it ought to be, with September, when the wet season begins, the expeditioE should turn into some winter quarters where provisions are plentiful. The rains come on very suddenly, and a body oJ men compelled b-ttganexpQcted dn-wnfalls suddenly to halt, and to go into winter quarters, would be exposed to great discom forts and lose many of its members. Perhaps the Mozambique and the Rio Sena would be bettei starting-points than Angola or Benguela. The region to be explored is nearer the eastern coast, and the oriental negroes are more civilised and better fighters. Moreover the explorers would thus be better able to meet difficulties and to make head against the enemy than if, weary and broken-down, they hac marched all the way from the western coast across Africa. I now pass to the most important consideration — the kind o: person to manage so delicate a mission, which could hardly be re-attempted should the first trial fail. The commandant musi be a man of natience f},Tifl prnbity. fnrt.itndfi ,^pd pgijejice healthy and yig(^rQiia.Jui frame, accustomed to the country, and j^cquainted with Jh^^,,^gaflg£§,jgg^^^^^^]^^^^^^^j3g3ftBS .^^^anompest, graye^jfl^^oaSSirJ^^arians' expect from the white man truth, grind faith and honesty.in thfs matt'^r pf pay jaenti-they are extremely jealous of their women, and eviJ would result, not only from violence, but even from seduction The leader should personally set the example of total absti- "¦ A considerable miscalculation, as will presently appear. t,-IJsajSJ over such a , _„ ••-aimrtoiEr^rg'ysenEgTr'Trimarir'is mer::ssgmrm-^^ec^w-ma!irgm:i ajid the avfthor does not see that all the time would be wasted in hunting. Thf densely forested and swampy regions of Intertropical Africa could hardly supply four, much less 400 men, with regular rations of meat procured by the chase. X Alias Eio Grande do Sul, in the Brazil. 28 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. nence in this matter, and enforce it upon his followers, under the promptest and severest penalties. He must be invested with the power of punishing offences,* and, if prudent and cir- "^cumspect, he would temper justice with kindness and humanity. He should not be placed under governors or generals ; these, on the contrary, should be peremptorily ordered to lend him their aid. Hitherto the authorities have ever succeeded^ in thwarting all such Tindertakiiiigs' "wETch were"nol£ directed by tESFmvnorders/f™" ^ '~~~ "' ' -~~"-->™' -¦ - i<"inally the leader, ambitious only of glory, should be ani mated by true patriotism, an essential to success. Unhappil)'', the best prepared African expeditions have mostly failed from the vile interestedness of the commandants and from their bad example. Thus the name of the sovereign becomes odious, > the sacred rights of truth and justice are violated, and to fill up the measure of disgrace, merited punishment is avoided by ^anjungsuhteriuge. First impressions generally decide the part which we take, and men are mostly governed by what strikes their external senses. The barbarians, appreciating the good conduct of the leader and his party, will easily infer the pacific and benevolent intentions of those by whom they are sent. My personal experience of the people assures me that, under such circum stances, success is certain. Display not being wanted, the luggage should be as light as possible : ayticle&.of ..constant want should be so packed as to ...ensure., mobility, whilst tKe usual i'mpedimehts of boxes,~tables, bedsteads, crockery (loipas), and cloth-bales should not be ad- r mitted. If the leader be a true soldier, he will carry no more kit than can be conveyed by one negro.t Thus he will be willingly obeyed, and his party, seeing the example of their superior, will learn to endure hardships without murmuring. In case of accident to the commander, a second in command, rchosen with the same regard to fitness, should be duly appointed to take charge of the expedition. These, Excellency, are my views upon the subjects of ex ploring the vast regions of Inner Angola, and of establishing * P^ipiiilimei),!^ jn;n.in^.^.is imp^ctiyablc where desertion is so easy and so dis- ^iitoia.teamiS5iBg^™' ' 7/ '~ •¦-•"»«'•-'¦-' ¦¦"••^.•«»- t And not only anlOngst the Vortugiiesc. I found this to my cost in exploring the Somali count; wherever the intluence of the British authorities of Aden, Colonel Coddan ana Ca.ptain ^lavfniv nnbn.n.|i1y Pvt»n.-1nr1 I^'lhis assertion beats even the crlebrated ordei^oTniy old chief Sir Charles Napier— the soldier and his "bit of soap." It is always my practice fo ciu-ry with mc as mucn, not as little, as possible ; at the same time, -when the necessary moment arrives, Ijim ready .to limit luj;gage to a pair of saddle-bags. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS 2£ land-transit between the Eastern and the AVestern Coasts ol Africa. My familiarity with the country has given birth tc them : zeal for the welfare of my native land, for the glory oi my race, and for the interests of my sovereign, has induced rae to expose them. After weighing my opinions in the balance of your strong intellect, adding, diminishing, and alter ing as may seem fit, you, and you only, can give to us the hope of seeing this important and glorious undertaking brought to a successful issue. Such are my hopes: such is my only ambition. The pleasure of knowing that I have lent my aid to the fui-therance of the project, is my sole intention in thus addressing you, and with our Horace, in the dedication of his poems, I can truthfully assert, — " Enough of glory, 'tis for me to boast I loved my native land and nation most." * X * A somewhat (of late years at least) liackneycd quotation from Camoens :— I I" Eu desta gloria sii fico contcnte, I I Que a minha terra amei e a minha gonte." J V v Note by the Viscount de Sa da Bandeiea. " The following are the objections to this theory. The Cunene, we are told by the writer, is 540 fathoms broad at 50 leagues from its source. Subsequently Dr. de Lacerda measured the Zambeze, in Jan. 1798, a short way below Tete, and found its width hardly 450 to 500 fathoms. Lower down, in the broken gorge of the Lupata mountains, its flood was only 180 to 200 fathoms wide, and the waters fell four hands breadth whilst he was on the river, rendering it necessary to unload the canoes. " Were the Cunene and the Zambeze the same stre.ims, the length from the source to Tete would be 300 to 400 leagues. After such a drainage, the volume of water should be much greater than at 50 leagues from its source, whereas in the Lupata Gorge it is less. And as the channel of Mozambique receives notliing larger than the Zambeze we cannot admit that the mouth of flie Cunene Eiver is to the north or to the south of it. " The opinion that the Cunene discharges its waters into the Atlantic Ocean is. more plausible. On March 31, 1794, a Governor-General of Angola named, in order to prevent smuggling, a captain or chief over the ferries of the Eio Trombas, subject to tbe Capitao-JIur of Caconda Nova. The Governor of Benguella, Barreto de Vasconcellos, wrote, in 1799 : ' The Cunene falls into the sea at Cabo Negro, and forms before reachin.g the mouth three islands ; it has a very heavy bar swell.' This cape is m S. Lat. 15° 48' 0" (15° 40' 7" Eaper), and still further south an English ship found, about 1824, in S. Lat. 17= 15' (17° 25' Eaper ^< the mouth of a considerable stream, to which it gave the name of 'Nourso Eiver.' In the following year Captain Owen, E.N., then surveying the coast, met with no signs of an embouchure, within 30 miles north and the same distance south, of the place laid down as its mouth. But many African rivers, e.g., the -p;» ,i»o -^Tr„.|jpu ("of murders'), in Mossamedes Bay, are absorbed in dry weather by the sand. "~ ,.j " Although it seems probable that the Cunene falls int' . .ne Atlantic, there is a third theory which deserves consideration. This river may serve to feed a great lake in the very heart of the continent, as the Asiatic streams supplying the Caspian, the Aral, and the Baikal, and as the African lose themselves in the Lake Tchad (Chad), and in a basin which exists south of the Eios de Sena. This Ink© 30 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. is called in maps"" 'Maravi' and 'Zachaf by F". Manoel Godinho, who says (' Viajem'da India por terra a Portugal,' 1663) that two streams issue from it to ¦the Zambesi, and who considers that it would facilitate land transit between Mozambique and Angola. Meanwhile, Captain Gamitto, in his interesting diary of a Portuguese expedition sent, in 1831, from Eios de Sena to the capital of the Cazembe (it afterwards appeared under name ' O Muata Cazembe,' Lisboa, 1864), asserts that the name of Maravi is -wrongly applied to the Nhanja Grande,t -which falls into the sea near Zanzibar Island. * Translator's J?o<«.-5Xbiepolitical;agS£8a ,».SOmetbing,Qf official inmirinnyTigBn -iip1f)TiOT^fr t.p^.rnpi'fjil f.liiTiat/iB^l^^Yp t11<1f|PTi jnany of the Portuguese discoveries froiOh,e..-world7j9ri4Th.M injffija -.-^ . - ^ -^ --..,.-. ^- ,-.-,.--.,,-..„.=.,- ihiiLiilSigenth cen^turv we.IiaiZe..-cacried „Qff pjijt. of.ia .glory „due to them. Dr. Livingstone'a pro- ¦oigious labours on the Upper Zambeze about the Nyassa and Shirwa Lakes, and in the country of the Cazembe, may well " Obscure the glory of each foreign brave." But it is too much to assert that his predecessors ignored the course of the Zam beze, the Shire, and the JjTi).tM|^ J.iikp.. which under the name o^^^^^l623) was kno-wn centuries ago. Ve cannot accept the assertion that "fl^rena the great and little swamps (on the Shire Eiver and called Nyanja) Portuguese geogra phical knowledge never extended. Dr. de Lacerda will prove that before 179S the Portuguese settlers at Tete had begun to trade with the Cazembe in S. lat. 8° 15' (not S. lat. 16° 20'), and that in 1825-27 a colony was established on the banks of the (Southern) Aroangoa Eiver, distant but 1"^ from the south-western «nd of the Nyassa. The great traveller unconsciously proves to us how well this water was known. In his ' First Expedition ' (chap, xxxi.) we find that Sr. Candido (Jose de Costa Cardozo, the Capitao Mdr ?) had visited Lafrp •UTornyo 45 days N.N.W. from Tete. In chap. xix. we read that an Arab had been living for fourteen years at the " Katanga's, south of Cazembe's," where malachite is dug ; that ^"^ Wf If'V'^'fT'tffl.xf^ . ."L^^niJ}?;?!? ?£.JJiii.iii^^^^^' ^^^ probably with that of the MoeroTjakg. which is ~d'e3critiea'"a'3"^''flowing out by the opposite end to that ol JNyassa''— that is to say, northward — a very fair " piece of Arab geo graphy." So in chap. xxv. we are told that f.btj ,ffra}^ J^fill^^Bihi^ whom the ti'avelier met at Linyanti, in 1855, had been taken across the Njgpsa. We may thus resume t^ question treaESd" above, withTBe assistance of that ¦eminent statesman, geographer, and savant, the Viscount de Sa da Bandeira. ('Notes sur les Fleuves Zambesi et Chire, et sur quelques Laos de I'Afrique 'Oriental.' ' Bulletin de la Socie'te de Geographic.' Serie V"", tome iii. p. 361, and tome iv., 390.) , 1. The Chire (Anglicfe, Shire) was navigated hythe Portuguese in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 2. The Nyanja-Mucuro, or Great Lake, in the Marave country, had been visited *by them in the eighteenth century. ^ 3. They had laid down the positions of the lake and the Chire (Shire) Eiver in maps. 4. 'They had often crossed the Chambeze, or Northern Zambeze, in their fJourneyB from Tete to the city of the Cazembe. 5. "Sr. Candido had visited tbe place where the Chire (Shire) leaves the lake." N.B. — This place, called by Dr. Livingstone Murombo, is changed by »^M[r. Cooley to "Pa-Merombo" — place of junction, viz. of the Nyassa with its lake-like drain. 6. Dr. Livingstone, by visiting the Upper Zambeze, the Chire Eiver, and the Nyassa Lake, and by determining certain points astronomically, and by 'describing the country, has added much to our knowledge of this part of Zam- bezea. + Monteiro and Gamitto (1831-32) make this Nhanja-Moouro (Great Nyanja), nine leagues (Portuguese?) broad. The last African expedition led by me, in . 1857-59, showed that the.coja£uMoiL.caiU8ed-hv this.P'enpric word "w^t^^" f^^ spb S?,*' P°"i."JS&.H'^--thf8MUataA£jmt.oe^^^^ sea theNvassa (not Nyaasi) df" •-KiiWBTtKff NJanja lately estabhshed to the west ofMonibasaSTand the (Victoria) PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 31 " In confirmation of the Lake theory we have the following fact. In 1801 two Dutch Commissioners, Fruter and Somerville, left, on a cattle-purchasing expe- ¦dition. Cape Town for the interior. After passing northwards of the Orange Eiver into the before unvisited lands of the ..Bailapi. their linguists told them that all "the territory to the north and the nCrm^'Sst were Bechwana, that is to say congeners of the Batlapi, and speaking Sechwana (Sitlggi) with various dialects. The country consisted of vast dry plains, -with a great lake to the north-west ; this, according to the CommlffltenwtJTretdd be on the confines of Benguela. Dr. de Lacerda makes the Cunene to run east; it may find its way into that lake. " This interesting point must soon be decided. Of late years many Protestant Missions and Moravian Brothers have settled in the Bechwana country ; more-^ •over Cape merchants have penetrated 300 to 400 leagues into the interior. They find this travel easy, for three reasons — the hospitality of thepegple, the heine. ^^able to employ Cape waggons, and ttg^^^gggjuge'SftE'eTi^^aua ,langTrf^l,'M """-whicli tllSfS"arg"Jingiisn and Dutcn gTammars,'an3" wIuoEls coghaiie'-wim the .BundagtAcgola. ^ '" ~— >--**" " Moreover, since 1836, some 30,000 BoerS^ave fled from the English rule. This extraordinary exodus of families -with flocks, and universally recalling to* mind the Hebrews' flight from Egypt, went eastward ; and part settled in Natal, whilst some reached the Louren^o Marques Bay and the Inhambane. In 1844, ¦we are told, part were still wandering ; hap^Jihey may turn to the Portuguese possessions north-west and discover the.m^lffiLiof the Cunene. " The glory of exploring the Cunene sKould he ours. No other nation has such ¦opportunities of discovery, and we are the most interested in opening up a stream which, as its breadth of 500 fathoms argues, ia probably navigable, and which, provided with properly-placed Presidios, would becomejin important centre of ¦trade. \jr " MossS.medes Bay (so called from Baron MossSfiedes, Governor-General of Angola, who explored the country) is the best starting-point for an expedition which, marching upon Huila, would strike the Cunene and trace it down to its mouth. If our Government resolved to undertake this fine exploration, it might ¦easily be carried out by young naval and military officers, and the advice of our author upon the mode of travelling might be adopted as the counsel of experience and of good sense. Those should be preferred who have completed a course of polytechnic study. They must be abletoj ay down , febeiEJhMgifaidfiaubgHlaBiitei^ < ^ate^lgs, as did Dr. de Lacerda, j^rnune fltituaesbytli)^ barnmatfir andaaglfiigr_ ¦^¦^bpWnnTTipfr-if. ftpd magnetic obsersaiions. a naturalist and a good draughtsman would complete the personnel. The road-book should be kept with care, andfl plotted off without dp.1a.v- whilst interesting geographical njrtices and minute ¦memoranda" describing tUe country, the people, the languaeej^and other points of interest, should not be omitted." ^ Since this highly interesting note was -wjitten (ia 1844, it must be observed, before the " Mombas Mission " had take^^ its abode on the coast, and a year before its excursions began) much has tejm done. Fruter and SomerviUe's lake has I)een determined to be the Ngami or»bld {i^prnpuy Water. 14° or 840 miles in direct distance from the Nyanza Lake. The Batlapi have been visited by many ^gnglish travellers, and Dr. Livingstone includes them amongst the Balakahari or "western branch of the Great Bechwana family, once an " insignificant and filthy _, people," but much improved by "trading, peace, and religious teaching" (Dr. Li-vingstone, ' First Expedition,' chap. x.). Dr. de Lacerda's error about the course of the Cunene, making it flow eastward instead of westward, is the rock upon which many African inquirers split, forgetting that it is impossible to determine the direction of streams or the lay of mountains except by ocular inspection. The mouth, said to have been discovered by "L'Espifegle" in 1724, and passed by Captain Owen, November 28, 1825, is : tnat pi NvaJWa.Ke'rion discovered by Captain Speke, sent by me for tiat purpose. The msmjftJUjMuatr- Filppbftilti MMRh" by Dr. Living- . stone, and his map shows it m S. lat. 16° 20 . The Nhanja Pangono, Little Water, is transferred to S. Lat. 17° 10'. ' — ' >— * ^•^ PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. .^rtially intaCMittftnt. as -was -n'rongly reputed to be the case with the Juba fliver;"Hn!'rrightly with the Webbi Gamana^ the Nile of Makdishu (Magadojjp), or agaiiies Eiver on the EasrCBSSfor Africa. Captain Owenlaelieved that the rains, beginning with the year, open the Cunene's mouth, and that durjngtbe dries a ?strong south-west w-ind and furious breakers, especially on th!e soufiiei'ff'poffit, called in old maps Cape Eiiy Perez, heap up a sandbank which seals the em bouchure. The Nh.anja Grande is partly a confusion of the Nyassa Lake, between 11° and 14° 25' S. lat., and a flooded morass, or rather a lake region to the north of the Zambeze in S. lat. 17° 10'. The Zambeze expedition found that both drain, as the chaplain of Dr. de Lacerda's party had asserted, into the Zambeze Eiver, not into the Zanzibar Channel, as Captain Gamitto had supposed. '' Zachaf" is evidently the Nvassa Lake. ( 33 ) INFORMATION TOUCHING THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION," AND INSTEUCTIONS ISSUED TO HIS PAETY, BY DR. FRANCISCO J0Sl5 MARIA DE LACERDA. Section I. Eespecting the important enterprise, most illustrious and excellent Sir,* with which Her Most Faithful Majesty has charged me, namely, to discover or to confirm the feasibility of overland transit between the Eastern and the Western Coasts of Africa, I have the honour to report to you, for the informa tion of the Sovereign, that whilst preparing to carry out with all despatch the commands of Her Majesty, though doubtful as to what measures would produce a happy result, being ignorant of the route to be taken, I heard with pleasure that aiuold, ba.fkwnpdpTngn ftnny.ain Cfjpfjfj^y^p Pp-rpivfl -j" by name, had arrived -at this town. In the days of my predecessor he had explored the lands of a king called Cazembe, dwelling near Angola, who, having been sent by his father to make conquests in the interior, now rules, as an independent prince, the Muizas, J and * This letter, dated Tete, March 22, 1798, is addressed to the same Minister, D. Eodrigo de Sousa Coutinho, and furnishes all the preliminary information collected by Dr. de Lacerda concerning the march to the Cazembe's coimtry. The paper is reprinted from a manuscript in the library of the Count de Linhares, and was offered to the Maritime and Colonial Assosiation of Lisbon, by its ex- President, His Excellency the Viscount de Sa da Bandeh-a. t This is Dr. Livingstone's " Peirara" (m6 his ' First Expedition,' chap. xxis. p. 587). The traveller gives a curious acqimt of " Dr. Lacerda's expedition," and tells us that his papers were " lost to the world." Moreover we find tliat he J A Iso termed Moizes, Movizas, Tnvizas, and Aizas. Dr. Livingstone writes ¦ a la Makololo Abisa, or Babisa, the Kisawahili Wabisa or Wabisha. The learned .Jesuit de Jarric (ii. 1637'"fcls them Ambios or Imbjfis, Das Neves (p. 397) prefers " Vaviza " and Vavua, " the rich people'"''(Vavua m Kisawahili, the plural of "M'vua," would mean "hunters" or " fisjfermen "). Dr. Livingstone (chaj^. XXX.) confounds the tribe with the Wanyanmezi, misled by Mr. Cooley (' Geug. of N'yassi,' p. 17), who tells us that they are "similar in physical character and natural marks." Of these marks I shall have something to say on a future occa sion. The " Muizas " originally lived on the west of the Nyassa, extending to the Tanganyika Lake. According to Monteiro and Gamitto, they were expelh d D 34 DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION other Caffre (Kafir) tribes. The chief had sent two envoys to- visit me, and from them I took down the following depositions. Having obtained this information, I will delay no longer than is necessary to hire the 300 Muizas who escorted my informant the son of the said Gonpalo Caetano. So many slaves have lately deserted and died of famine, that, without such aid, I hardly could have obeyed Her Majesty's orders. Yet I am. aware that even under these . favourable circumstances, full. confidence must not be reposed in the Muizas and in the Cazembe. I have made every arrangement that is here possible. A company of fifty soldiers with ofScers has been recruited, to assist me in carrying out the measures which their knowledge of the country suggests. Want of time prevents my applying for aid to the Mozambique, nor do I regret it. The Grovernor- General there informed me that, though ready to assist in all requisites, he did not wish to know or to hear a word about my •^undertaking.^ I have the honour, &c., (Signed) Feancisco Josifi Maeia de Laceeda E Almeida. Section IL* Before entering upon this depositiorLL^ill briefly state that, about forty years ago, Gonpalo CaetanoTereira came from Goa, and made his livelihood, as do all the colonists, lay ^old-washinp- and trading with the Caffres of the interior.! Tlun of tranie and high-spirited, his generosity and courage have made him loved and feared by all the knights of the interior, and they, as well as the Portuguese, nickname him " Dom^ Dombo," meaning " the Terror." their territoi-y by the Muembas or Moluanes, and they have since been much scattered. They are now g'-paJ^-fa^J'<^1Jf i-jL3iJi . tiTiute'" i and they have approached the northern banks of the Zambeze Eiver — Dr. Livingstone met them near the Loangwa stream, bringing English goods from Mozambique. JEjigX^'aj^iCliter.as -I^giaiiiBfiS' ^^^ ^^^ ¦w*~JiB^5S„?i.&flSiiai' = I ^^'^^ found severaT^^fea). reduced ,tp,,^avffljys^|heBrazil. "" "¦^'ThelJeposition ofMaSoel'Caetano Pereira concerning his journey in company with his father, Gon9alo Caetano Pereira, to the city of Cazembe, the king nearest J to the Portuguese possessions on the West Coast of Africa. In Monteiro and Gamitto's Expedition of 1831 (p. 129) we read that they found Manoel Caetano Pereira, a Capitao-Mdr of the interior,''and his brother, Pedro Caetano Pereira, in the lands of tbe Chevas north of the Maraves. t The Portuguese apply the word Caffres (Kafirs) generically to the heathen of the inner regions, and especially to slave porters. According to Dr. Livingstone (' First Expedition,' chap, x.), tJjejQjjgjgg^onsider .t^name Caffre an insult. So da- " niggers " at Sierra Leone and convicts in Auslraliar™" ' " "" ON THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 35 Years ago the Muizas, in their tradings with the Mujao, * heard that this man was working at, and dwelling near, the mines of Java (Jaua), beyond the Zambeze Eiver, some five days' journey from this town. In 1793 they came to trade with him in ivory, and they informed him that their lord, the Cazembe, desired his friendship. He entrusted to these Muizas, without other / security but their word, a little cloth, which sold well ; and afterwards he sent to the king, with the like success, two of his trading slaves ('Muzambazesl.t Desiring to benefit the colonists — a rare idea in these regions — Gonpalo Caetano Pereira informed them of the new opening for com merce, and some of them resolved to send up their slave-porters in charge of his son Manoel Caetano Pereira, a young man, going for the first time to manage his father's third venture. In May 1796, Manoel, accompanied by his own slaves and by the Muizas, who, the year before, had brought down the Cazembe's ivory, set out for Marenga J (Marengue ?) land, three days' march from Tete. The first regions which he traversed were those of the Marave § kinglets, called Bive, Vinde, Mo- canda, || Mazy, and Mazavamba ; and he secured free passage by* presenting a little cloth to the most powerful. He was forty-five days in reaching the banks of the Arangoa Eiver, which falls into the Zambeze near the town of Zumbo.lT The Portuguese, * This is the Portuguese form adopted by Dr. Livingstone (' First Expedition,' chap. xxxi.). In Expedition No. 2, he calls them Wai^o. Waiau.-Qj. Aiaaia. and he records a fight ¦with them. The Wasawahili prefer "Mhife," in the plural " Wahiao." The once powerful tribe has its habitation on the north and east of the Nyassa Lake. Some authors confuse it with the Angiiros. The women, like those of the Marave, distend the upper lip. t Also written . Mozicfibazes and-Mflsaambazesu It means " commerciantes ambulantes dos ."Sprtopa " ri^yp ilj^'^r^nt traders, the aa.Ttip na the Pnml;iBirn.'< oE. th^Western Coast, who takgjibfiy-™^"'^^-'^™'^'-^-'"™"^^^'^-'^''^*^'''^^^ ^ } In some (3tiie1ZSzrBar"di%tec,ts "B^enga" mean3_ water. § Of tbe^SlS.'^veinore anon. II; is a powerful tnhe, ari3!nostile to strangers, living betweSrthe Zambeze Eiver and the lands to the south-west of the Nyassa Lake, hence the -water for years has been known to Europe as the "Marave JUke." —— — ^\ In Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 448) w^nd that the lands travelled through by them between Tete and the Cazemhi*^ country were governedU^bree great chiefs. These were— 1. The Undo of the Maravea^ 2. The Mucinda (Mokanda) of the Chevas ; and 3. The Chiti-Muculo, Kin|)i^the Muembas. 1[ Of the Southern Aruangoa, tbe stream here alluded to, more will be found ia a future note. The Northern Aruangoa, Loangwa or Eoango, is made a northern influent of the Zambeze, 180 direct miles west of Tete : it was first crossed by Dr. Livingstone on December 14, 1855. The map of his Second Expedition lays down. for its upper branches a course very different from that of the first and, agreeing with Portuguese information, it is probably more correct. We can hardly under- . stand how the traveller, after seeing a stone church and other such signs of ' civilization at Zumbo (the old mission town on the right bank of the Zambeze and the left of the Loangwa), could persuade himself that the Portuguese never travelled, up the Zambeze Valley. D 2 36 DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION however, had not reached the place where he crossed the stream. The Maraves, professed robbers, fearing the number of his party, allowed him transit for small payments ; nor did they annoy him with th^ir "Mil^ffllfi^.^'.* or palavers, by means of ^which they mulct t&e'^traders in cloth, to the great injury of commerce. A dog entering a hut or chasing a hen ; even the trader's slaves appearing in a village without warning ; in .fact aj;iyJaaiiaftL.pretftnr:e..of tke.|tind, becomes a crime, which can be expiated only by cloth. Weare^weaj^sowe must suffer. But, if I return safe from West'ern"i3rica^ ttese banHiis snaU Ibe punished. Throughout the Marave country millet (Eoleus sorghum) abounds ; there are also beans, seeds of different kinds, and live cattle. The travellers saw no sheep, goats, or pigs. The Cazembe alone had a sow, aent from near Angola by his father,t and now, his only hog beulig dead, he is sending there for some couples. ^ Leaving slaves to treat with the neighbouring Caffres, Pereira Junior crossed the Aruangoa in ferry-canoes, for which he paid a small sum, and reached the Muizas, who begin beyond the northern bank. He halted there awhile for necessaries ; then marching,^,afica«diag;Ja,«C§ifeg^aprice, four or five hours a day, after twenty days he strucS:™anolEer river, which the people called " Zambeze." % From their information I venture to say ^ * The term "Milandos" mean3.j5hai®Sg«|to8u^t,^,ggaift§t.J;^ggI!^g,,fc£,ij3a purijose. of, PlgP.'j.ering jheui ,: Ji,n fact, the„^SjgaI^^SS!Q&!th.e<3EesMi(!flast. I shall nave more'to's^ ahout this'woM, which is constantly re-ocourrmg. f "Jp^.l-ipi- " finrp. mans "liege lord" and " son, often " subject," whilst 'J.brotlier" is any man oi i'lie same tribe. The' MUllttUlVU, Maillfifa, Muata- .^mlG^TrSaH^Gari^ was visite-^yToaqum-'BXangues Gra^a in 1847 : he fs'tbe paraihoUhfChTef of Londa (Lunda) and of the Alunda, ., Vai-unda, Aronda, or Alonda tribe, tbeJaJflDJan-f Dr. Livingstone. X Dr. de Lacerda's Zambeze divides the "Muiza country from the dominions proper of the Cazembe. In the map of Dr. Livingstone's Second Expedition we find a "Zambesi eastei-n branch" in lat. S. 11° and W. long. 29° to 31"^. It thus became a headwater of the stream, concerning which the canoe men sing, — The Le^mbye ! Nobody knows Whence it comes and whither it goes.'' (' Livingstone's First Expedition,' chap, xxvi.) And, finally, Mr. Cooley his distorted it in a special manner, which will require a future notice. Dr. de Lacerda's assertion, touching the non-identity of the two streams, has been verified by Dr. Livingstone's third and latest expedition. The traveller, in February 1867, crossing the " Zambesi eastern branch," which he calls, like all the Portuguese travellers, Chambeze, clearly a dialectic variety, found it flowing to the left 4and (from east to weat)rlft'a'*ffilRn*nf'«8*EaK Bangweolo. This water lies at the northern counterslope of the Muchinga Mountains, and drains through the;' Lakes Bangweolo, Moero (Livingstone, September 8, 1867), and XJlenge or Kamalpndo, to an unvisited lake further north. I have given my reasons for believing that this great valley communicates with the north-western branch of the mighty Congo. Dr. Livingstone (addi'essing Lord Granville from n ON THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 37 that it is not our Zambeze, nor any of its influents from theXire (Shire) Eiver * upwards. The Zambeze of the Muizas flows to the right hand of those crossing it from Tete, and it falls into other streams, of which I shall presently speak. The Muizas were found to be ^kindly and commercial people. A little cloth was " dashed " to the chiefs, who, conquered by the Cazembe, pay tribute to him in stuffs, for which he always returns ivory. The dry goods hitherto imported into this country have been bought by the Mujao (Wahiao), indirectly or directly, from the Arabs of Zanzibar and its vicinity.f Hence these people receive all the ivory exported from the possessions of the Cazembe; whereas formerly it passed in great quantities through'' our port of Mozambique. J The Cazembe declines to take cloth from his subject chiefs, who bring it cut up and high priced. He wishes the Portuguese to send him bales, ".a.s they come from afarJ'S Our trade would soon supplant that of our rivals, the Mujao, if we could import a quantity of cloth ; and if we are rightly informed, a matter into which I will look personally, the Cazembe does not buy goods : perhaps it would not be held dignified for him Ujiji, December 18, 1871) now derives the " Leeambye," or Upper Zambeze, from ." Palmerston's Fountain.'' Of this curious theory a few words have been said inTESTntroSuctor^Eemarks. * The MissionaryJLiiiaJ4gj|igum)^' Lettere Annue d'Etiopia, &c.,' Eome, 1627) well knew thaRne (Jberim (Shire)' flows out of the Marave Lake (Nyassa), and that its bed has rapids. !Sjaa^J3ijaflgLIjjnj[jjjjjo (1663) makes the Chire Eiver drain the " Zachaf" Lake. ' Mr. Cooley (' Geog. of N'yassi') thus comments upon the.,Qld explorer : " With respect to the Eiver Cherim, said to flow from the lake, it is 'evident"T;hat Mariano had in view a Eiver Querimba, that is to say, a river entering the sea somewhere opposite to the Querimba Islands." And this is what is called^ Comparative Geograply 1 The supposed "Querimba Eiver" is not even traced m'fflr'. UoolS^ niap.' "xSrljivingstone (' First Expedition,' chap, iii.) teUa us " we could not learn from any record that the Shire had ever been ascended by Europeans " (before his first journey in January 1859). He forgot that the missionary Joao dos Santos, who had resided in the country eleven years froffl 1586 to 1597,1HB1111UUM, lU his '^thiQnm-.Unentai'"('Pinkerlotl. VUl. 1^. p. iJ!J'", **ffi?Seat nver tjnirija£igat^ea Jaillj^JllackaJjadJi^^ The Shire is, THiw unh&^piiy WSn*SLOwn as tke quarters of those murdered men, the_first Uni - '^BLiJSiiMiBSiftBirJ"'' ^'^~""™' " ' ' iiiMamnunn* f 'Through Kilwa, which, when I visited it in 1859, had a large trade with the Cazembe's city : many Arabs were engaged in it. From this point started the latejjr^oscher, who reached the Nyassa Lake two months after it had been visiteT^TIr. Livingstone; and he was followed part of the way by the late Baron von der Decken. X The European establishments at Zanzibar have, of course, increased this evil , to the Portuguese. Unfortunately, however, *^^ TfrtlUfiin itil'lT" ''.lul.tllfifilfii °'^ favoured m th£.aln.vp-T]r (Dumbos), which begin upon the Aroangoa Eiver ; || hence. Eiver" three days' journey, or 30 direct miles, from the capital of Cazembe, -flows to the northwest. I have long ago recorded tXe .Arab opinion that the Tanganyika Lake has at the south an in^jimt, the Eunangwa or Marungu .Eiver, not an effluent as the Luapula of Mr.'Tlavenstein. Dr. Livingstone (' Second Expedition,' chap, xxv.) says : " Flowing still further in the same direc tion (to the west) the Loapula forms Lake Mofue or Mofu, and after this, it is said to pass the town of Cazembe, bend to the north, and enter Lake Tanganyika." In chap, xx-yii. the traveller hears this from Babisa tobacco dealers, and says, " this is the native idea of the geography of the interior." Dr. Livingstone's Tbird Expedition, however, sets aU right, and gives us the first correct -view ot the •country. 'The Cazembe's town is placed north-east of a diminutive basin called Mofo or Mofwe, which connects, through the Londa (Luapula) Eiver with Lake Moero, tbe centre of three fed by the northern slope of the Muchinga range. ^ * Dr. Livingstone ('First and Second Expeditions') describes Morumbala i i-i'tiio i^fty ¦wqt/.^-jj^wa,."^ near Sena, to be an oblong, wooded mountain-mass, f " pMbaWy 3(J06 to 4000 feet high," and, as its hot sulphurous fountain on the \ plain at the north-eastern side (northern in ' First Expedition ') would show, of igneous formation. In his map there is an island in the Nyasia Lake called " Muromba Hill," which has disappearedfrom the chart of the ' Second Expedition.' t This is clearly a confusion between" the Lake Nyassa and the two jfjrajas .(to the North Mukulu or Mucm-u, " the gi-eat," and to the south Pangono or " tbe ^mall ";, on the road from the Zambeze Eiver to the Nyassa Lake. It niust again /be observed that in the Zanalan tongues. Nvassa. Njji.nza. N™u^nd "^^Si&W^r^ y4^^ignifcjKater. M'tope i^ TUBm, the'Portuguese " Lama, m Monteiro's map 'Darabo I^odoso." ^ t M. Eavenstein makes both streams, " Loapula " and " Schambese," fall into the Chuia Lake (Portuguese, Chover, to raiu ?). This is Dr. Livingtone's " Shuia,' ' which has three outlets. I called it, in 1859, the " Chama Lake," from the dis trict which it occupies.. § So in ' Annaes Maritimos ' (p. 291). I am at pains to know why Mr. Cooley (' Geography of N'yassi ' p. 17) should translate this passage, " The Moviza, being great traders, go a long way into the country, and even penetrate at times to Luilhim" (for Kilima-ni on the coast). He adds, "in this name it is easy to recognise the Portuguese abbreviation of Lukelingo," which (p. 15) he calls the capitalgtjy^. ^!lf.nrtiPfflf''"Wft^ "'^"^"SJf" • Lriclieringa (not Lukelingo) is the name of a^ stai-idiioh the way from Kilwa to the Nyassa Lake. "T4n'' ffor Itoja^is the j£j)^^jjitgjjjljjigij^,^^, I have said, are now nearlyannihiUited&£M,e.»slave- /trade. Their "capital" is ou&^^^mrSST'nJSmTSS^SS^ST^iSCM.ihe Tan- fiVyika Lake. Dr. Krapf (' Travels,' &c., p. 419) mentions " Keringo," a station in their country ; but he knew too much of Africa to talk of a " capital." II From Tete to the Cazembe's country Jhe traveller crosses two streams of 40 DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION perhaps, the difference. Or it may be the Lucuase Eiver,* whose mouth is near Quilimane, but whose upper course is unknown — a doubtful point which I hope soon to resolve. Perchance, again, it may be some other stream which dis charges its waters into the ocean between Mozambique and Quilimane. The Cazembe evidently desires intercourse with us. _ After vainly attempting to detain Manoel Caetano Pereira, with the assurance that he would send his own ivory-porters to bring up more cloth, he unwillingly dismissed his visitor, and only on express condition that the latter would return; and he threatened, if deceived, to slay all the Portuguese in those parts and to seize their property. During the six months of Manoel Caetano Pereira's stay, the king made him many pre sents, amongst which was a large farm of vna.r\\rtc. — there the staff of life. He promised .restoration of stolen goods, with 'profit to the injured person • and gave Kim and his followers immumly itrom iKe'''Taws to which his vassals are subject, such i-i^uttiiTr^nff thr rmv, bands, and pudenda of adulterers. They witnessed an instance of the latter amputation, and similar pains and penalties. This king, our good friend, is proud of intercourse with us. Shortly after the arrival of ManQel Caetano Pereira he sent a message to his father, the other king (Mwata yd Nvo), that as the latter had his ,t meaning sons of, or born under, /vater, so he himself had been visited by whites from the other yshore. It is this boast, f combined with want of cloth, which makes him so much desire our friendship. He sent to me, as nearly the same, and possibly quite the same, name. The southern is the .Ajru- angoa, Aroangoa, or Arangoa, which falls into the Zambeze about the Kebra- basa Eapids, and upon whose banks a Portuguese colony was built ; the northern is the Arangoa, or Loangwa, the head-water of the Eoango or Loangwa, which falls into the Zambeze at Zumbo. "¦ In Dr. Livingstone's map we find the "Eiver Licuara," alias Likuare (' First E.-jpedition,' chap, xxxii.), a northern influent of the Quilimane mouth of Zambeze ; but it appears to be an insignificant stream. t A word is here omitted in the original — in Kisawahili it would be " Wiina Maji." The negroes of the interior look upon the whiteness of European skins,. and. especially the straightuess of hair — of which they sometimes say, " it is tho^ njane of a lion, and not hah at all," and "only look at his hair ! it is made quij;^ straight by the sea-water " — as the effect of marine or submarine life. The old ' Maharattas also regarded the English as an amphibious race. ' \ ''"'""YTu"my''TW.TS91on to Dbll'flllllH''""l;*ll'aVB'"HMl)WU thai ' a ijimilar vanity exists, and I that its result is a modified form of human sacrifice. King Gelele, wishing , to send a message to his father, summons a captive, carefully primes him -with the subject of his errand, generally some vaunt, adhibits a bottle of rum, and < strikes off his head. If an important word be casually omitted he repeats the operation, a process which I venture to call a postscript, \ ON THE PROPOSED " CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 41 envoy, the son of a Muiza chief, whom he had conquered and put to death. This messenger brought in his train one Catara,. . a grandee of the Cazembe's kingdom, and two spies (sopozos), to see that neither I nor their master were deceived by him in the matter of my reply.* Of these, one died; the other, a youth of sixteen to eighteen years old and a confidential slave of the monarch, survived. The envoy and Catdra both informed me that the Cazembe, or his ancestors, coming from about/ Angola, which they pronounced Gora,t overran his preseift territories; that from his capital to the small kingdom of Bloropoe is a journey of sixty days, or somewhat less for white men;$ and, finally, that canoes from Angola and its vicinity came up to fetch slaves. On the way between the two countries are four rivers running to the left (south-west), and therefore falling into the Atlantic ; and one is so broad that it takes a day to cross. May this not be the Cunene, or, as it is called in some maps, the Eio Grande ? From the Moropue's kingdom to the Cazembe's country pass cloths, and the^^jiotiens" (trastes)/ common on the western coast, as mirrors, tea-thiags kept for shflffi, plates, cups, beads of sorts, gdwries.^ and Jjroadcloths of various Jiinds. I myself saw a scarlet "jjurante ' (a narrow__ wooUer stnff wi£kQi3i. -nap) which the king had giVen W sT Caffre slave of Manoel Gonpalo Pereira. The Cazembe sends his chattels to his " father," who remits them to Angola, taking in barter broadcloths, as baize, du rante, fine serge (serafina), and the articles specified above. They do not sell their captives to the Portuguese, who hold them of little account compared with ivory. The latter article, however, would be much more lucrative if transported by water, instead of the present tedious and expensive land-journey. || The Cazembe's country abounds in manioc, white gourds. * This system of spies and of duplicate officials is quite African, as I have shown in the ' Story of a Mission4aJi^RJ!nS™~~" t From Monteiro and Gamitto we learn (p. 498, &c.,) that the Alundas call the lands of the Muropue (or Mwata ya Nvo) "Angola " or " Gora; " the latter evidently a European corruption of " Bunda Ngola " in full A-Ngola, the l;md of (the chief) Ngola. X The direct distance from the capital of the Cazembe to Kabebe, the capital of the Mwata ya Nvo is from 4 to 5 degrees = 240 to 300 miles. This place is built near and north of the Luiza Eiver, supposed to be an eastern branch of the Great Kasai. According to Ladislaus Magyar, the Portuguese call this capital also Lunda. The four rivers running, as was formerly supposed, to the south- -west, will re-occur in the course of these pages. § Caurim or Cauril, plural Cauris. The popular word is " buzio,' from which the French in the Brazil coin " des bouges." In Angola it is Zimbo, and it has- a different name amongst every tribe. j, II '"^-r rm'y "''°"p iTfliY "f eYnnrting- ivor-y ixasrihe heart of Africa is upon the- shoulderawatilaies, the latter being oi coiiis^ld on the'b'ftMf;'""™'*'"^""*'™- ¦ 42 DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION ground-nuts,* "jugo," a small haricot like the ricinus,t white sugar-cane, the sweet potato (G. hatata), and the Dende, whose fruit makes oil.| Between the lands of the Cazembe and Moropoe there are many deserts wanting supplies. _ Our tra veller found provisions deficient amongst the Muizas when taking on his return a different road (the westerly ?), nor did he reach the lake above alluded to. Thec^m^ are the king's private property : § only his dignitaries may herd black cattle. The entertainment of the Cazembe is magnificent. He has .a number of domestic slaves, and he carefully preserves his many wives, who are allowed to speak with his confidants only. .His usual dress || is a large silk sheet (tobe) wound around the middle and girt with a bandoleer : it is plaited and folded above the girdle after the fashion of the Cabindas. He wears a cap ^ornamented with red feathers, and his legs are adorned with ¦cowries, large ^hite beads (velorio), the pipe-shapeiLJjeads /ganutilhol.lT rnucKTaTueTamongst them, and beads of sorts.** The Cazembe rarely appears in public, the better to preserve *^«'^-*»».*»*»!«.*ww»*;>^Kf™.«.™*,.-*^W*?.t/y,^C;ij,,j,.i,.,i^H..t.,..r. * In the original " amendoim," which does not mean almonds, of which the Persian variety, or " bidam " (a Sterculia), is found upon the Zanzibar coast, but -uever far in the interior. Monteiro and Gamitto, however, say (p. 163) that on the banks of the Northern .Aa^uangoa Eiver they observed " amendoeiras das que dao as amendoas chamadas durazias em Portugal." Here it is the Arachis liypogeea, the Pistache of old and the Ai^achide of modern French travellers, the pea-nut of the Northern United States, the Pindwe (a Loango word) of the Southei-n SJ^es and the Ginguba of Angola. V' t Especie de feijao carrapato. M. Constancio's Dictionary explains Carra- pateiro as Palma Christi, the castor-oil tree, from the resemblance-iims- fruit to^he cattle- tick (carrapato). The vulgar Portuguese name ol the shrub is .orPendem, in Africa and in the Brazil, is the Elseis Guineensis, or palm-oiT tree. 1 i'ound a species on the Tanganyika Lake which produced good .ntTyhiit. fhfi, frpjj-,, jjKafl^^^j^,|)^mgJj^^'J^ft u''".r.''-"..i .j.QjL"' SE^Sfc^^ °^ *^® West Afi-ican Coast and about Bahia. § The same is the case in Benin city. (See my ' Visit to tbe Eenowned Cities of Wari and Benin,' ' Eraser's Magazine,' February, March, and April, 1863.) II So MM. Monteu'O and Gamitto describe the Cazembe's dress as a waist-cloth or swathe, called Mucouzo, with one end made fast below the waist by a little ivory arrow to the ^oay-cloth, and the whole -wound round the middle in short, regular folds. A leathern belt, known as " Insipo," supported the gai'ment. Their frontispiece, " 0 Muata Cazembe vestido '(fb grande Galla," shows this swathe ' and its bandoleer. The chaplain of Dr. de Lacerda's expedition will presently ¦describe it in these pages. ^ M. Constancio derives this word from the French " canutille,'' meaning "purl," " fiium argenteum vel aureum," the gold or silver wire, tubular and spiral, used in embroidery. In MM. Monteiro and Gamitto it is a bead material. They make it (p. 181) a synonym of "Ddrdra," a pipe-shaped bead, or rather bugle, one inch long by four to five lines in breadth. In p. 189 we read of " Canutilho de todas as cores." In Venice '' canutilho" is called Pipiotei. ** In the days of MM. Monteiro and Gamitto (18,34-1832), the beads for "• Quilimane wer^isAite, black, green, and grey ; for Sella, white and black ; for Tete and So*S^ large white, black, and biick-red ; and for Inhambane and Lourenjo Marijues, of all colours. ON THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 43 the respect;, nf bi.c! people. He receives his nobles sitting behind a curtain, and presents to them, not tea, coffee, nor chocolate, whose equipage is always displayed, but millet-beer (Pombe),* and the^ne (SuiaJjJi^JJa&Jikdia The courtiers drink only what the king portions out to them, for fear of intoxication, which is an offence severely punished by its own peculiar judge.f The Cazembe has a number of well-disciplined troops, whose chiefs every night bring him the news, and receive his orders and the watchword (Santo),§ which they pass like civilized nations. There are diflSent corps de garde, patrols and rounds to keep the peace and to repress disorders and drunkenness^ The city is surrounded by a deep ditch, said to be several leagues in length :|1 during war time the vassals are lodged within the enclosure, so as to be out of danger, but it does not appear that any neighbouring king claims superiority over, or even equality with, him. The offensive weapons are spears 6 feet long, and shorter assegais for throwing, with broad- hladed and well-worked viol-shaped and pointed knives (Pocue)^ whose short neck acts as a handle.TT For defensive armour they have shields, flat parallelopipedons, externally of light thin tree-bark, large enough to defend the whole body : the inside is strengthened and kept in shape by neat wickerwork, and before battle these defences are soaked in water. The soldiers do not use bows and arrows, but the Muiza archers : skirmish in the van of the army, which is formed in three lines.** The Cazembe prescribes the seasons for amusement, lest * Pombe is a word generally used throughout Zanzibar and the Sawahii. The kings of Yoruba also affected, like the Cazembe, to conceal themselves from public view, especially whilst eating, drinking, or snuffing. When the King of Dahome drinks, a curtain is held before him by his women. t My friend Dr. Kirk informs me that the date-palm is there called Jindi* The DJs.'yil's-palm (Raphia vinifera) is that most used on the East African Coast. The'besiE'iiqubr is drawn from the oil-palm, but it injures jjie tree ; the cocoa-nut alsbJgjTOJ, UU 'LhtT'Wfestefh (Joait "it "Ma'iit, a first-rate wipe : I do not like that -drawnfrom the date.'-TSKffitSraS'-SfitfG'afflitto (p. 403) mention a wild palm which the natives know as 'SJ^ediqua." It is evidently that of the text. X In Dahome the puBRBSfent for drunkenness is very severe : it is regreta;ble that such is not the case throughout West Africa. < > § So called in Portuguese, because it is or was generally the name of somo y saint. II This style of defence is also African ; the text would well describe Abeokuta. The curious reader may consult the first of my volumes on Abeokuta and the Camarones Mountains. Agbome, the capital of Dahome, is girt by a fosse, but it has no walls. T llhese short handles, unfit for the European gi-ip, remind us of the swords w^ -"''^Tnirs'Q^ tft'ffia, Aayfl-bvMtia.'"'™ iiiiiimmiih '™""""'' — "' ** T^k.i.h.. l^.nmnTi UsklirBrinciDes. and triarii I have described a similar ..oTo-g.TiiRa.tion amongst the )Vatiita of tbe Airican i^ake Eegions. (' Lake Eegions, ...&0., vol. ii. p. 77.) " ¦¦ ' ~ 44 ' DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION there should be no work and all play, which would breed troubles amongst his subjects and demoralise the soldiers. Ivory selling is a royal prerogative, and only the nobles can dispose of small quantities with his express permission : hence, as 1 have said, all the cloth is presented by the traders to the king. He has copper and iron mines, and he is now at war with a chief whose country produces tin.* I showed our Caffre visitors gold, which they recognised, calling it in their tongue " money ; " all declared, however, that there was none in their lands. Perhaps they do not know how to extract the precious metal, or it lacks value amongst them. His ofScers are me chanics, workers in cloth and in iron.j There is a great difference between the modest deportment, the way of eating (fipmedimento), the songs, the dances, and the drumming of these Cattres and those of our black neighbours near the Eios de Sena. A messenger from the kingdom of Bar6e,t whom I saw at Sena, haraifgS^d-lqiidly for a g[Ood half- hour, with JmTnodp.rate p;estif^.1]f^im-i, in- nrrlgr t,p g'-p^ a. Hbrn-t message. On the contrary the Cazembe's envoy spoke little, with great civility, and so softly, that not much was heard. Before the latter addressed us, his interpreter, a Caffre slave of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, collected with his fingers, as is their ' custom, a little earth, with which he rubbed his breast and fore-arms, and this ceremony was repeated after he had trans lated the message. § Our negroes drum a horrible thunder- _stormj and he plays best who beats the hardest : besides wnich JFoIn men and women dance with extreme indelicacy. || The ' drums of our guests are tapped b'Trg i^aLnrril^ag (tnmfmns) gently and sweetly : this serves as an accompaniment to their songs and dances, which are as graceful and decorous as can be expected. The chief did not honour me by dancing before me : Catara and his spy did so before dehvering their message. After this the people came to compliment them, some em bracing hiiji ; others touching with their little wands, in token ,^ y * In the original " latao,'' which the dictionaries explain " brass, a mixtm-e of copper and calaminaris stone" — but from African hills we do not dig brass. There is probably antimony, and Monteiro and Gamitto twice mention tin (estanho). Dr. Kirk suggests that " latao " may^jgnify " pewter," but it cannot have that sense here. I have alluded to antimonynear Mombasah in ' Zanzibar ; City, Island, and Coast.' t So in England, Wayland Smith, the blacksmith, was once adored. X Probably the Barue of Dr. Livingstone (to the west of Sena and north of M!ini9a), the Bambire, or people of Baro'e. X f § This pf'tli-Tnlljiii""' is general amongst the more ceremonious tribes of f Africa, as those of Benin, Dahome, the Congo, &o. Of course it is a token of higlv respect. -J— I— <——¦ "' II Again showing that the interior peoples are more civilized than the maritime, who, from foreigit^civiUsation, pick up only the vices. ON THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 45 of their inferiority, the lance or spear which they held in hand. The Muiza jag the sides of their teeth, making them re semble those of a saw.* It must be hard work, without files, thus to spoil the work of Nature: they effect it, however, ^laking the patient suffer severely, by means of a bit of iron, , wlilcih they p'romlsed to give me.f I greatly admired their head-dresses (toques). The Cazembe's vassals proper, so to speak, neither chip their teeth nor use the toques, being soldiers, , who have no leisure for such coquetries. With regard to religion, we could only learn that the Muizas and the Cazembe's people have hollow idols (fetishes ?)| in which they store their medicines before drinking them. A Oaffre of this country, being at a house in Tete where some Muizas had danced, and where they had been rewarded with cloth and beads, invidiously remarked that they had consulted-' their wizards. The Muizas (I must observe that here both whites and blacks understand the strangers) indignantly re butted the accusation, telling the man that they had no such' habits. They do not affec^the ill-omened "palavers" (milandos negregados §) : in war time, "when compelled by hunger, they are cannibals. Catara and another, his slave or his companion, declared, on being shown the compass, that they had seen that thing in Ji^ora." When asked how far it was from the Cazembe's country to Angola, they p.y^syered with a vivacity which ensured * I have stated (' Lake Eegions of Central Africa,' vol. ii. p. 150) that, according to the Arabs, the Wabisha (Muizas) do not file their teeth nor raise a dotted line on the nose. Mr. Cooley, in his ' Eeview,' (Stanford, London, 1864), objects to my making the latter assertion. Did it never suggest itself to this writer tbat^ African tribes, especially the wandering and commercial, often change tlieir c;^t2JBa,.aiidJiaeCT«K3S^SS:3aSEm^^T^;?^^ Wanyika, behind Mombasah, gave up tattooing after the missionaries had lived -amongst them for some years, and used to say, " Why should we spoil oui- skins ? " | I fear, however, that this is an amount of progress not to be expected from the obstinate advocate of the Central-African " Sea." t A common bit of hoop-iron is generally used : the enamel must be removed by it from the sides of the teeth, but decay does not follow. X Meaning that they have no God. All anthropologists are agreed upon this , peculiarity of the Kafir race. So in the tongue spoken about Tete, and under- ^stood by the Maraves and Chervas, " Murungo," the word generally translated " Gfidi," Tne.ins thunder : Dr. Krapf ('Travels,' p. 168) gives the same signi- "B'cation to the Mulungu of the Wanyika race. So Dr. Livingstone (' Second Expedition,' chap, xxiii.) makes the people confound God and thunder in -" Morungo." § Monteiro and Gamitto (' O Muata Cazembe,' pp. 7 and 91 'i tell us that Milando means a debt, an obligation contracted but not satisfied, a. theft, a murder, ata^lgijj2Jii8S«3fi2S£ik^' ^' ^'' " Milando do Pombo," a process on account of adultery. 'I'be word appeal's to be the South African '^olatu," as given by Dr. Livingstone, chap, xviii, — "I have no guilt or blame (Jfolatu)." 46, DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION my belief, that black men took three months .and .ffitutes^Jitfle- ' 1^ss^7TEOTaIso"mentioned theTucuale" Eiver, which, according to some maps, is an influent of the Cuansa (Coanza). Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, kno\ying my wish to cross Africa, offered me his escort. I accepted it willingly, as he is the only trustworthy person ; and, in the hope of promoting the work with which Her Ma-jesty has honoured me, 1 made him Capitao- .Mor of the Bush (Mixonga). He thanked me thus — "If your Excellency desires to visit Angola, you need not trouble your self with these questions and with writing down answers : cross- the Zambeze, trust yourself to me, and I will see you to the end of your journey, at my own expense if I could afford it." Suchi is the good effect of a measure which costs nothing but care to- employ it at the right time. The Africans and the Americans- would do good service to Her Majesty, if their rulers would bestow honours upon those deserving, and not disgust the people- by selling them to the worthless.* Before arriving at Tete, and examining these people, my- intention was to set out from Zumbo, our westernmost settle ment. I soon found that in Quilimane and Sena, as at Mozambique,i4J.eo.ple knew nothingjDf what had happened since 47^3, and that their" information could not \>e relied "upbn.'t Therefore, I did not bring from Mozambique certain necessaries,. such as white soldiers, good ammunition, arms, and similar supplies, of which nothing but the worst is here procurable. J (Signed) D. Feancisco Jos:6 Maria Tete, March 22, 1798^ DE LacKEDA E AlMEIDA. f¦' * These are memorable words, coming from a Brazilian. t Tha_aame- proved to be the case at Zanzibar : what these affirmed of the- ,interior„QiQgg^^j}iecl ; inaJij; misled rue 'through ignorance, some tor ttieir own interests. """ "" -».-—.>.»—.————"—- .n .,-_ '""I "The following is the official Act : — " On February 27th, 1798, in this town of Tete, at the house and in the presence of His Excellency the G overnor of the Province (Eios de Sena), Dr. Francisco Jose' Maria de Lacerda e Almeida, and all the citizens and inhabitants of the same town, appeared tho Envoys of the King Cazembe, to salute His Excellency the said Governor on the part of his master, and to offer friendship and trade to him and to them. On his side he promised that, in case of the road being stopped, or of merchants being plundered by any neighboming chief on the- -n'ay, his lord the King would send a force to clear it, we also sending our forces ; that the Portuguese would be allowed to build a sattlement, and to plant manioc- near the Arangoa Eiver, and that they should nolr send their goods one at a time but all together. [In fact, to form a caravan -\m3 a desideratum in East Africa.] This proposal was unanimously accepted, and a resolution was passed that the inhabitants would be guided by His Excellency the Governor, who took so lively an interest in the public good. Having thus agreed, they bound themselves iu a bond before me the writer and signer of this instrument. (Signed) " Jose Sebastiao d'Athaide, " Public Notary." ON THE PROPOSED '' CAZEMBE^Ep'EQJTION.'' 47 Section III. Deposition of the Bandasio * of the Cazembe, sent by his Mamlo or liege lord,. and then lodged in the house of Dionizio Eebello Curvo. _ The above declares that, when sent by the Mambo Cazembe his master to the Kinglet (regulo) Muropoe,t during three months' march, he crossed in small canoes four streams like this (southern) Zambeze. The first was the Eoapura,t the second was the Mufira,§ the third was the Guarava,|| and the fourth was the Eofoi.lT In this distance, where the land belongs to the Yarunda nation,** there are but four settlements, one on each. Here follow the signattu-es of those present, ^wenty-four names : Jose' Sebastiao d' Athaide (writer and si^er of the document). I''onizio de .Araujo Bragan^a. Ji ise Liuz de Menezes. Manoel Jose Cardoso. Pascoal Jose Eodrigues. Placido Jose Eebello. Joaquim Jose d' Oliveu'a. Joao de Sousa. Victorino Jose Gomes de Araujo. Jos^ Francisco de Ai-aujo. Joao da Cunha Pereira. Ignacio Gomes dos Santos. Sebastiao Eeduzinbo Mascarenhas. Luiz Nunes de Andrade. Jose Luiz Eodrigues. Caetano Benedicto Lobo. Joao Joaquim de Mattos. Leandro Jose' de Aragao. Dionizio Eebello Curvo. Joiio Baptista Octaviano dos Eeis- Moreira. Manoel Antonio de Sousa. Gon9alo Caetano Pereira. Nicolao Pascoal da Cruz, and Sebastiao de Moraes e Almeida. * Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 14) explain "Bandaze" to be a domestic slave. t This is the iia.ual African style of exaltinsLjjiemaster at the expense of " {This stream has been before alluded to, under the name of Luapula. It was found by Dr. Livingstone to connect the Bangweolo, or Bemba, with the Moero Lake. § All African rivers baro lii^1f-p.~rlnziMwtin.mpg 'W'e must, therefore, not be sur- prised 'il' we do not nnd ihese words in other travels. 'The only check upon this march is that made by the two Pombeii-os, sent in 1802 by Sr. Francisco Honorato da Costa. The Mufira, alias Eufii-a, Luvira, or " Luvivi," is a stream 12 fathoms -wide, and laid down as an afHuent of the Euapura or Luapula, crossed by Pedro Joao Baptista on the 55th day. According to Mr. Cooley, it is the grftat river Luviri, called by the Arabs Lufira, which fiows into the Luapula about 100 miles S.W. or S.S.W. from the City of the Cazembe. Dr. Livingstone first throws it into the Tanganyika Lake : he now makes it rise, under the name of Luvii'i, on the western watershed of Conda Irugo, to the south of which is Lake Bangweolo : it thus takes the name of Lufii-a (Bartle Frere's ' Lualaba ') andf falls into Lake Ulenge, or Kamalondo. II This Guarava is evidently an influent of the great Lulua, or Lualaba, a stream 50 fathoms wide, and formerly laid down as one of the head waters of the Leeambye or Upper Zambeze. It was crossed by Pedro on the ^gt day of his march, and he found a large settlement there. ,jr^ 1 The Eofoi must be another eastern feeder orihe Great Lulua or Lualaba. We find in Dr. Livingstone's last labours a Eopoeji influent, crossed by the Pombeiros. ** Pedro calls these people Viajantes Arundas and Viajantes da Alundas.. Bowdich terms them the nation nf tbig Varoondas. Mr. Cooley, with extreme error, explains, by the Congo languages, Alunaa or Arunda — elsewhere he tells us that the Alunda never pronounce the letter E — to mean mountaineers or bushmen. It is clearly Alunda, Balunda, or Walunda, according to dialect, the great nation ^^ 48 DE LACERDA'S LETTER AND INFORMATION river ; and the people live on milho burro, maize (Zea Mays) and manioc. From the lands of the Maropoe to those of the Muene- puto (a chief so called from the Portuguese), either on the east or on the west, it is one month's journey, and whites (Muzengos)* come up with their slaves to purchase ivory and captives. The ''ea is large and salt, and from the sun-dried water they derive the salt brought for their Mambo.t Un ine otner side of this sea-arm also appear large masted vessels, and houses as big as ours. The further bank of the river (Zaire or Congo) is occupied by the Congo kinglet,| a neighbour of the whites. Whatever cloth he receives from them annually he divides with the ¦said Mueneputo and the Muropoe. And the deponent further states that, after leaving the Cazembe's country en route for Tete, he passed the first night at the village of Muenepanda. After travelling through an uninhabited country and canoeing across the Euena Eiver,§ he spent the second night at Caunda, and the third day's journey brought him to the house of Maruvo. The next stages were Capangara, fourth day ; the bank of the Mamuquendaxinto {Mamukwend-ashinto or -achinto) stream or streamlet, fifth day; Chydeira-mujepo, sixth; Chipaco, seventh; Chinheme- apes, eighth ; the bank of the Eoarro Grande, || a river which he crossed in a canoe, ninth; the Zambeze Grande (Eiver Chambeze), also requiring a ferry, tenth ; Mugruye, eleventh ; Camango, twelfth ; Xiara (Shiyard), thirteenth ; Caramuga, fourteenth; Macatupa, fifteenth; Parusoca, sixteenth. He passed the night of the seventeenth on the bank of the Euanga ruled over by the Muata ya Nvo : hence Lunda (Mr. Cooley's Eoonda), the cil y of the Cazembe. (See Dr. Livingstone's first map.) * Muaawgo is the Mundele, or Mondele, of the Congo, hence Dr. Livingstone's " BSbmdele, or Portuguese " (' First Expedition,' chap. xix.). That traveller uses "Bazunga" for Portuguese, and mistakes it for "half-castes;" whilst he calls Englishmen Makda (sing. Lekda). Muzungu is the general East African name for a white man Jzun^u being- flip Vpri "f t1ir Tiihitn mnin. Mi-. Cooley (' Inner Africa Laid Ot)en, p. 35) explains Muzungu to mean " properlv, wisa*' men :" at Zanzibar I have heard this derivation. Dr. Livingstone (' Second Expedition,' xvi. p. 331) takes it from "zunga," to visit or wander, perhaps a, little too fanciful. t Many African tribes (e. g., the Bube of Fernando Po) hold salt to be a liad -suhsiituie lor salt water. I have seen sea-water drunk even in thi'TSpe Yci-de islanas. "'" " ' ' ' ' '' ' -—>-¦»"¦'-— --¦«~'^~—-^*^- - - r''t"'The great and powerful Manicongo (Lord of Congo) was certainly not tribu tary to the Muropue ; nor have his smaller successors ever been dependent upon -the latter. .|j^ag.%i.2L£2£S&JI£i^^ .JsAaeS: TETs one is tbe Luena oTMonteiro an dCJamiltorBlr. TJavenstcin writes Euena and causes it to fall into the Luapula. Dr. Livingstone's first map makes it a widening of the river south-west of the Cazembe's city. His last journey makes it an eastern influent of the Luapula. II Probably the Euanceze of Monteiro and Gamitto, a northern influent of the Chambeze. ON THE PROPOSED "CAZEMBE EXPEDITION." 49 (Northern Arangoa) Eiver, which is also passed by boats. During these days his only food was raw millet and beans of sorts. At the Euanga Eiver ends the nation of the Vaviza (Muizas) and begins that of the Marave.* Through the Marave country the stages are. 1, Capangara ; 2, Eummda ; 3, Mazanba ; 4, the .lungle ; 5, Chenene ; 6, In- haruanga ; 7, Caperimera (this is also found in Monteiro and Gamitto); 8, the Jungle; 9, the Sansa Eiver (Sanhara of Monteiro and Gamitto?); 10, Mucanda; 11, Pasnicheiro ; 1 2, the Bua rivulet, crossed on tree-trunk rafts ; 13, the settle- meut of Caraore ; 14, the Eoveu Eiver,t also passed on tree- trunks ; and 15, the Bar de Java (Jaua) where the Portuguese work gold.J (Signed) Dionizio Eebello Cttrvo. Tete, March 12, 1798. Pubhc Notary. Deposition of a Muiza Caffre, touching the Eoads to Angola. From Tete to the Arangoa River the people are Maraves, and hostile to us. From that stream to the Cazembe's country live his subjects the Muizas. It is a march of two .moong thence to "the lands of his father MoropoeT^^^^T^^S^Xfl^^ostly ¦^^¦^ste. Settlements are not found, except on the banks of four distant rivers, which are crossed in canoes, there kept for ferrying pur- p)Oses. From the Maropoe, after one moon and a half, we strike Angola, at a cove or bay, where are ships larger than the largest houses of white men here The most inland nation is the ¦Cabinda : § it reaches as far as the Murop6e and the Cazembe, who, when they want slaves, attack it, and send the captives to Angola. II (Signed) Sebastiao de Moraes e Almeida. Tete, March 10, 1798. P.S. — It is probable that this Caffre speaks the truth. When * The native thus acknowledges only two tribes, north the Muizas and south the Maraves. Monteiro and Gamitto (chap, iv.), insert between them the ¦Chevas (Shevas) and the Muembas. Mr. Cooley makes Ansheva (plural of M'sheva) to mean " the strangers or foreigners." t Probably the Euia Eiver of our modern maps, which receives the -Aruangoa, and which falls into the Zambeze at the Kebrabassa Eapids. X In the text " e e Bar em que unga on minera a nossa gente." ".Bar " means a ¦n¦(^1r^-¦^Y1e ___„,________ _ iE, TOicri faurTnto'the M a little belowCa^o J^Jegro. I am also ordered to see whether ^-SliffiEi.^S.'l ^^^7 ff^y^y^feft fe?!! commerce between Portugal!" oV^T;|^'TojEKefe"Jgi^^ to report con- cemmgtheadvantages of the country and the industry of the peoples, and especially to seek the means of bringing these •infidels into the bosom of the Church — the principal motive which urged Her Most Faithful Majesty to so costly an under taking. I now proceed to execute these orders. And as, in case of any accident happening to me, the Expedition might, to the detriment of the service, be broken up for want of instructions, I issue these directions, holding every one respon sible for their being obeyed : — 1. The senior superior officer will command; but when counsel is needed, all the members will assemble, and each will be heard. 2. An account will be written daily, after each march, recording and describing all adventures and occurrences; the quality of the soil, productions, mines and villages ; the manners and customs of the people ; the breadth, depth, and direction of the rivers, relative to one travelling from these parts ; the fittest articles for barter ; and, finally, everything seen, even though it appear trivial — diffusiveness being preferable to over con ciseness. 3. Arrived at the (lower) Aruangoa Eiver, the party will select a proper site* for the settlement desired by the Cazembe, and will carefully note the advantages to be derived by it from * In 1824 a colony was founded at this unpropitious spot, by Colonel Jose' Fran5isco Alves Barbosa, Governor of the Eios de Sena. The land was bought from the Mambo Muasse, and in 1827 a small force of soldiers -was sent there. These were withdrawn after two years, and the colony was allowed to go to ruin. We can hardly, therefore, say that the Portuguese have not explored these parts, ¦which are nbnut on a parallel with the nortliern pnrt of the Nvassa Lake. THE MEMBERS OF THE CAZEMBE EXPEDITION. 51 trading with the Muiza tribe which there begins. The Lieutenant of Sena, Jose Vicente Pereira, will descend that river in the best canoe procurable, to trade with the Caffres. He will keep a journal, like that recommended in No. 2, and he will avoid dis embarking at populous places, lest he be insulted by the barba rians, of whose dispositions we are not ignorant, and lest we lose the results of a valuable discovery. He must register all such important information as the number of days spent in making Zumbo, and the approximative total of leagues from his poiut of departure to the end of the voyage whence he will regain his post. His Diary will be forwarded to the Commandant of Tete, who will transmit it to the Governor of the Province, and supply a copy to his Excellency the Governor-General of Mozambique. It must also be shown and another copy must be supplied to the chief Captain of Zumbo. It is not supposed that he will require to purchase provisions, as a few days will probably place him at our colony of Zumbo ; but should he want any thing, he must put on shore two or three Caffres to buy neces saries in the villages, and be careful on no account to land. If the river called by the Muizas "Zambeze," prove navigable during the dry season, and flow to the right of one marching towards the country of the Cazembe (i. e., from north-west to south-east), the party would do well to descend it ; and in so doing they will pay due regard to all the directions given above, and register whatever occurs to them as likely to benefit the Eoyal service. That river is, they say, the Shire, or a branch o|^ it which falls into our {i. e., the southern) Zambeze a little below Sena. If not, it must be the stream which discharges itself into the ocean a little north of Quilimane. From that point he will transmit to the Commandant and to the Governor- General a copy of his Diary, together with all the information which he may have collected touching the transport of such goods as are procurable amongst the Muizas and in the African interior. 4. Should the said Zambeze prove to be not navigable, the lieutenant will send his Journal when he reaches the river upon whose banks is founded the city of the Cazembe. This, the Muizas assert flows to the right (south-east) and receives their Zambeze. 5. But, if the said river of the Cazembe flow to the left (south-westward), and if it may possibly be the Cunene or another and a branch stream, then Captain Joao da Cunha and the pilot Bernardino shall descend it with the compass and sextant. Crown property. They will learn the use of these instruments on the march, and they must trace the river according to the method taught to them. They will keep a E 2 52 DE LACERDA'S INSTRUCTIONS TO detailed Diary, noting the number of leagues daily navigated ; the respective distances of Caffre villages on its banks, and whether the natives know of the Portuguese or any other white nation. In so doing they will take every precaution against being insulted. Arrived at the mouth of the river, they will observe what sized vessels it can admit; they will sound the bar, survey the channels, prospect the port establishment, and take the latitude with other necessaries, remembering that Cape Negro is in S. lat. 1G° 8'. 6. Having examined the river mouth, they will await favour able weather for running up the coast, as far as Benguela, in rafts or in any craft that may be procurable ; a voyage which may be accomplished in two or three days. Thence they will pass to Angola, and report their good service to His Excel lency the Governor-General of that province, who will doubtless lay the names of the Captain and the Pilot before Her Majesty. Intelligence of the movements of the Expedition should also be sent by land to His Excellency. Should the two travellers be unable to go up the coast by want of a vessel, they will return by the same road ; and, after reaching the city of the Cazembe, they will make a full report to His Excellency the Governor- General of Angola, that Her Majesty may receive information with the least delay. 7. They will perform their land-marches under the safe-con duct of the country Caffres, who are said to be peaceful, and to trade with the Portuguese. Their expenses will be paid by what they take with them, and if that be not sufficient, by the Eoyal Treasury of Benguela or of Angola. 8. This undertaking being of the utmost importance, all members of the Expedition are hereby ordered to lend it every aid in their power, and will be held personally responsible, should it fail by any fault of theirs. 9. The chief sergeant, Pedro Xavier Velasco, and the Lieut.- Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, shall also be despatched to Angola. Thence the latter, being the fittest person, shall proceed to Lisbon, and shall report to Her Majesty the details of their journey from Tete to the country of the Cazembe, and from that point to Angola. And I leave to His Excellency the Governor-General of Angola the choice of sending to Portugal with the said Velasco (Nolasco) the above-mentioned chief ser geant. One of them must return here with a full Diary. 10. But if the river in the Cazembe's country fiow to the right, then the members of the Expedition will advance as far as they please, and will carry out these orders by descend ing the first stream which flows to the left. The branch expeditions concluded, the remainder will return to Tete, and THE MEMBERS OP THE CAZEMBE EXPEDITION. [53 there report themselves to the Governor-General of Mozam bique. 11. The greatest care will be taken to economise Crown pro perty, and detailed accounts of receipts and disbursements are to be laid before the Junta or Council. 12. The quantity of Crown cloth required for the return march will be calculated, and the remainder will be bartered for ivory. This, on arrival at Tete, must be handed over to the Junta, which will determine what is to be done with it. 13. They will enter into a friendly alliance with the Cazembe, and settle and sign with him the terms of a commercial treaty as favourable as possible to ourselves. They will repress all disorderly conduct, robbery, and violence on the part of the troops and the Caffres of the Expedition, lest they lose the favour of the king, who might treat them as enemies, and pre vent their passing on to Angola. 14. The better to obtain leave to make this journey with the necessary help, the king should be assured that our thus opening communication by land or by the Cunene Eiver will be to his benefit as well as to ours. His ivories must be sent for sale to those Eios (de Sena) where they fetch the highest prices. The Western Coast will afford a better market for his copper, his " latao,"* and his slaves. 15. The Expedition will act upon two well-defined principles. Firstly, it is Her Majesty's desire that an easy line of com munication should be traced between the two coasts, and the best is, of course, via the rivers. Secondly, they must do their utmost to discover, for the readier exploration of the interior, some stream flowing from the Cazembe's country into our Zambeze, or falling into the sea between Mozambique and Quilimane. And 1^ expect from mpf^ who are ambitions of. iJie wtdorv which must resalt-frpm such..a,Jf;:a.t.-ih.!i.t.JiLQ:^is.U'La home. They then recovered some spirit ; but only four members of the Expedition betrayed no weakness, namely, the chaplain, the chief-serjeant, Pedro Xavier Velasco, the lieu tenant-colonel of militia, Pedro Nolasco d'Araujo, and Antonio Jose da Cruz, fort-lieutenant of Tete. We spent the day 4^ subsisting " the people.: ]J7n n gpfrit I was everywhere, workmgmrd as an example to idlers. In ''the evening the abandoned loads were brought up" by the Caffres whom I had sent back. Lastly came the captain, with a report that D. Paulina, terrified by my threats, had gone to Tete, in order to send her negroes at once. We shall see the . result. 6th. — I spent a sleepless night, thinking of and fearing de- , sertiou, and so it again came to pass — thirty-four more porters^ fled. My foresight and firmness prevented despair getting' the better of me. To the Caffre care-taker of the Crown property I entrusted the least valuable objects which were to be brought on by the slaves of D. Paulina and' her brother^he prnnd . fooLat-SenPi pf w-hQJJa-I.RpQke in the other-diaxy.t I left some personal effects, as justice should begin at home, and I looked forward to reaching Maxinga. My firm resolution to push on, despite the lateness of the season, calms my mind and enables me to endure these vexations, as the storm-tossed mariner consoles himself with exaggerating the pleasures of the port. Disgusted with the place, I marched on till we entered the lands of the Marave,t our false friends and fast foes, whose only end is to fleece us of cloth. We passed three little villages, where the males, old and young, stood scattered, and without showing fight ; but each armed with his bow and arrows.§ Caffrejp^ from ' their childhood, never even visit a neighbour withont these weapons. What a well-made, finely-limbed, graceful race it is ' I was never tire3 "of looking at theito. " ' * This merriment is "nae canny" — of gourse it is the result of excitement.' The trfl.veller was unwise to leave behind .su9,l;i,''^i;ifi^i|ga^,.pomfQrta.^aBd«-to~}«ad -¦fiSsiirwHESSh: BvijUsJib£^s>zMS'i^^^ij2S£MJ^^i^J^^^^^''^- fTtwas lost or ratSerstolen, because it reflp.(-t,pjpiy;^p~nifi^^ t Of this celebrated tribe it is nere sutdeient to remark that the name Marave or Maravi is properly the title of the numerous petty chiefs. S I have described an exactly- similar scene amongst the Wazaramo of East Africa (' Lake Regions,' vol. i. chap. iii. p. 71). 62 JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. L Some elders came up to beg presents, — the tribute paid by Portuguese travellers, and which is regulated by the quantity 'of goods and by the strength of the party. Thus little can be gained by the poor beginner going to a distant but good market; he must, nolens t>oferas,^^jajuhlaiCk)»aiiUa.. cloth .,ta_a a^^XT^ o£,.EnTnQ.s._or district-chiefs.* for the reputed " avanies " ("palavers," Milandos) of their subjects. The soil appears excellent ; it is a plain, or rather a prairie, abounding in streams of the purest water, and from afar we sight hills higher than those of Tete. Who would credit, with out seeing it,t that our colonists, having such fine lands, with slaves and vassals (Mossei^s) annually paying tribute of every thing, must yet, at tEe'end of the year, buy grain from the Maraves? Had it not been for this resource, and for the supplies of Sena and its dependencies, Tete must haVe been ruined by the famines general of late ; the Marave lands how- ' ever, being cool and fresh, always produce something, even when the rains are wanting. But Tete appears an infant colony in almost everything. It cannot even tan leather, and it ignores soap-boiling and sugar-making. These articles we might supply to Mozambique, instead of importing them from Goa. And they often fail, as during this and the last year, when there was no leather even^ for heel-pieces; the expense also greatly increases — so soap, whose ordinary price is |8 to $10, has risen to |18 milreis fortes.f Who would expect the sugar of Mozambique to come from Eio de Janeiro and Batavia ? .By way of shaming these people, I TnHm-ifa.ftured three pounds of _soap : the bad lime and ashes gave._itjaJilack^^Dloar ; ^ As the year was very rainy, and sugar-cane is planted by them in damp ground, it was necessary to defer, until late in the season, ex- * TheWord is properly written Mfumo. t ^rSM. P^™. crer^" is an idiomatic Portuguese saying, mostly said with an jxrriere-pens^e of Saint Thomas.*- .—..— — — ™"— ..""'— ~«,~,.^,. — .^. ^ + Per arroba of 32 lbs. I presume. In Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 2) we find that 140 000 milreis fortes (strong) are equal to $100 000 milreis fracos (weak) ; the former therefore (= 4s. 2d.) contains 2J of the latter, each equal to Is. 8d. In 1852, by order of Government, $100 000 milreis (fortes) of Portugal were worth $410 000 milreis fracos of Mozambique. The latter currency was wholly abolished by the home authorities in 185.3, but it is not so easy to alter the customs of a distant colony. D);^^giii;JjaftKHl6d«.'ine (1865) that ttia. coins of Mozambig ue are still of difierenjt, value, at different times, ift_different jlace3^a'nd''t1ia'i:"in Ms^v 28ff-Ms'Bfffieprovince were valued at 20 reis of Lisbon. Thus $1 400 provincial would be equal to 100 reis (= one testao = 6d.) at the capital. Tbe Madeiran milrei fraco is = 4s. 2d., and the railrei forte is 20 per cent. more. At Cape Verde themilrei forte contains 225 reis, equal to 1000 fracos, and the dollar (4s. 2d.) passes for 920 reis fortes. Chap. I. STAT AT aWTTE. 65 tractingthe molasses (mela^o or melado), which is used forsweeten- , ing tea and coffee and for coarse confectionery, not eaten in public. They boil down the juice until it assumes a certain thickness, in little copper pots, having none larger ; and, after whipping it to^ the consistency of sugar, they use it without other preparation. Unable to remain at Tete whilst this stuff was being made, I resolved to see what could be done with irrigated cane. The season, however, was exceptionally wet, and when arrived at Sonte, I found, to my astonishment, water flooding the fieldsj,^ Of four little loaves which I had manufactured, one only re tained a small quantity of coagulated sugar, almost all of which escaped through the orifice of the loaf-mould. This remnanj..! PilaiJ-^ and had the pleasure of seeing that, althou^"ittere was not time enough for purifying the whole, it produced two finger- breadths of good sugar. These digressions are not unnecessary. Amidst the multi plicity of my engagements, many things run the risk of being forgotten. The Crown, however, must see, not only that the reports about Sena are greatly exaggerated, not to say false, but also that the colony, if provided with able handicraftsmen, and at a certain expenditure of money, will in time become valuable. I posted sentinels, with orders to hail one another every five^ minutes, and thus to scare away Marave thieves. The people cannot be trusted, and mine must learn the duty. Were they soldiers, our danger would be less ; enough to say, that when they were firing two volleys at Tete, my heart sank within me* --the greater..pailuksai3J£g:..^^ sruns atiull-cock, whilst„tbfi-jiHer&^d not know Jiow toie^i'. Such is th"e state of the soldiery in these provinces, and the I officers are as good as the men.* \ 7th. — The porters set out at sunrise, I at 7.30 a.m. Half-^ an-hour after noon, we awaited at a brook those who were\ behind. Later in the day, the lieutenant came on, and reported that aU the porters had halted near a rivulet, distant three- quarters of a league from this place, and that when ordered to advance, they had flown to their inevitable bows and arrows. I neither wondered at, nor cared for, the flight of five Caffres who, shortly after starting, left their loads, including my clothes-box. My mental anxiety is that, to-night, despite all our vigilance, they will disappear in a body. In order to remedy this evil, should it befall us, we must leave early for Maxinga, and thence despatch the necessary aid. * African travel repeats itself. This scene is a counterpart of one enacted by the Baloch mercenaries before our march from the Kaole village on the Zanzibar , coast. < 64 JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. I. To-day we passed only two small villages of Maraves. Others are probably off the road, as I often saw men standing by the wayside, and looking at us. According to the interpreter, they were surprised to see me riding in a small palanquin, declaring that the Bive, their king, though a great man, never travels in J liiiiiM>'. T they call my conveyance. - 8th. — At 2.30 P.M. I reached the Maxinga estate,* at the beginning of the valley ending with the Lupata (gorge). Here the negresses of D. Francisca, and a few others belonging to two Tete men, were digging for gold. My multitudinous and ever-growing perplexities made me at once send all the Caffres who were found ready, to aid those left behind. Happily they were not required ; and on the next day, the whole party arrived safe. I chose out two hundred able-bodied women, but, for reasons aforesaid, I could not visit the mines.f 1 0 th. Diiliifitia'itfl -^y ^ai-"-'^^»--^"'1 a£<.th« _Caffre trade. None but a company, aided by good chiefs and soI3iefs7 can prevent these kinglets, especially those subject to the Imperador,* from plundering and encouraging desertion. But what manner of man must the Governor of Tete be ? I know him not. I can only say that he must be active, wise, prudent, and gifted vrith all good qualiti-3s. 15th. — The Maraves came for their loads, but seeing my position they would not carry them till paid. After long haggling, I gave to each a f^apotiTri (twn binp r'ntfnng) with the chance of losing all by desertion that night; this, however, the Caffre of Gongalo Caetano Pereira assures me they will not do. Other Maraves being persuaded to join by these good terms, I divided the remaining loads between them and the Tete Caffres, of whom three had fled during the dark hours. Nothing now remained but a box of crockery destined for the Cazembe, and three arm-chairs, for which he had applied, a case of kitchen- butter for immediate use, and a barrel of gunpowder. I did not regret the loss of the latter, for, though bought by the Crown at the highest price in Mozambique, it was not worth its carriage. Giving orders for these stores to be forwarded, I left Maxinga. After marching two leagues, we arrived at the largest village yet seen, and there I was surprised to find the people who had been sent from our halting-place on the 12th instant. The soldiers declared that the Caffres had refused to advance, and that on the same day, after marching only half a league, they had insisted upon halting at the village, threatening the guard with their arrows if compelled to proceed. That was credible, as the same had lately been done to the officers. Present punishment would only frustrate my plans : it must be deferred till after our return to Tete. ^^^' I cannot wonder at the porters, whose natnfeis such. As the Caffres are the slave factors, whom their masters send to the^ lands of these chiefs, and are here lords of their own liberty, they march when they like, they carry many women at their * Meaning the " Undo, Imperador dos Maraves." 66 JOURNAL OP DR. DE^ACERDA. Chap. I, employer's expense, and finally they do as they please. I summoned the head men of the porters (nqafiagafflbos),* and harangued them, after which they promised more activity. But a short experience has taught me that these men, of •vicious nature and uncurbed by law human or divine, make and break their promises at the same moment. We shall see if I am mistaken as to the result of my sermon. 16th. — The Maraves ran away, and, unluckily for them, one was captured. This they say will i)e,the source of quarrels | and of serious " palavers " ("inilandosl. as* the father and relations of the prisoner must turn against the runaways. Although aU ¦Wm.MTO tJikZS^j. '!^}^^^I ^^i?g-g?^ i^^^.T.^^^^P^.n.iH^^!^^'^ to be a crime. "Happily appeared other Maraves, who agreed to receive their pay at Java (Jaua). At 8.30 A.M. I set out, when certain Maraves, standing by the wayside to see our large party pass by, seized and carried off two boys. The negresses screamed, my people rushed to the noise, a soldier fired in the air, and the two little negroes (here called bichos) t thus escaped captivity amongst the Caffres. I halted at a village (Jaua) a little before coming to the Lupata.J This is the name of a place where the mountains almost meet, forming a valley which we entered when arriving at Maxinga, and which ends with the said mountains. The plain near the highlands is sufficiently fertile, and a large brook of excellent water and smaller streams course through it. At the Lupata § ends the district of the kinglet (regulo) Bive, subject to the " Undo," or Marave Emperor. || * Sometimes written Mucazembos and Moazembos : they are the servile head men of slave parties, not to be confounded with the Mojambazes (Mussambazes) or Pombeiros. t According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 14) a slave generally is called " Bj-^" " /n-ifibnl — -jynrm nr baninti n rrnr j nf |j[ianaTil ipp1iall cry out and do-nothing '-^^^^^^^^^^Sjisd^ the few soldiers are nier'e"''Ci'afrfes,"like the''rest7^WnenI proposed, after the time specified, to arrest some sixty of the most mutinous porters, those who advised the measure opposed it in a cowardly manner, declaring that if the Caffres — who differ from our ,^ American negroes as the moon does from the sun — were made prisoners, the Maraves would become dangerous. As though a single shot or death would not — so at least our men often have , boasted — put to flight a Marave army ! || Presently, these half-a- dozen white men so thwarted me, that I resolved to keep my own counsel, and to manage everything myself. * I have before explained velorio to mean a large opaqu^^elain bead. -f The Wagogo of Eastern AfrieaailTO plait their hair wnh tree-fibre, and the effect of the head-dress is that oP^e Sphinx. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 154) describe and sketch the spike-coiffure alluded to in the text. X A foot-note informs us that this map never came to hand. § In August 1831 this chief (" Caprim^ra ") -was visited by the expedition under Messrs. Monteiro and Gamitto. They remark that the old man boasted much of having received Dr. de Lacerda. II I think that the reader will here agree with the party, not -with Dr. de Lacerda ; at least I should. The account in his text is inordinately diffuse, and calls for abridgment. Chap. II. REACH CAPEREMERA'S VILLAGE. 79 Finally, on reaching Caperemera's village, I sent to inform him of my illness, and my wish to see him. The chief (Mambo) presently appeared, — a fine-looking man, full of natural grace. Summoning all the servile head-men of porters (Mocazembos) I said in their presence that I had much friendship with his father (the Mocanda), in virtue of which he had at my request sent •orders to all his vassals and villagers living on or near our road, to seize and to bring before him all the Caffres taken without " a pass from me, and to sell them forTi)s~osmpfoB!r.'"Tr'aul^ "him to put to death those whom he could not seize, promising -on my return an ample reward. The truth is, I had failed to obtain this from his father, because the latter had feared to ¦visit me, and moreover because I had neglected, through igno rance of their customs, to delay with lj^J^fo£.£day, which they bold fv bigii \^r,na,^r I^aHSeTTEaT irw^*myl™E^ contract with himself strict friendship, and to open commerce, by which he would be the gainer. By sending to Sena his tusks and gold, as his land contained it, he would obtain more cloth than from the slave-factors (Mossambazes or Pombeiros) of Mozam bique, and on my down march he ought to despatch with me some of his "children" to Tete, where they would see the advantages of such traffic. I expressed, furthermore, a desire that he would respond to my offers of friendship by posting three of his messengers (Patamares) on the different roads, and seize as his own slaves all the fugitive Caffres who could not-" show my token of dismissal. The present of a red cloth (xaile), a piece....of thin Indian cotton (zuarte), a flagon of rum, a^d-'^-triclomof^jSil-* (um panno de'cauril). confirmed our-Afendship. The chief in person leading the Caffres who accompanied him, sent for three of his slaves, and, before all of our head-men of porters, he gave to each a bit of papet', which I had stamped with my arms, and he ordered tl^em at once to carry my plan into execution, adding that/ if any runaway showed a similar token he was to be brougljt before me, that it might be verified. I admired the presence of mind shown by this Mambo, and the vivacity with which, fie replied to one, who asked what he would do with the Caffres who might now desert. He said at once that he woTjId sell the runaways, as all fugitives had been given to] him by me. ' ,The Mocazembos, hanging down their heads, hastened with / s * Dr. Kirk says, " It is uncertain how much this measure of cowries may be. It is probably an equivalent of the panno or pano (cloth), the unity of monetary value and worth in 1832, as we are informed by Monteiro and Gamitto (Appendix I.) 120 reis fortes = 6d. •'¦* 80 JOURNAL OF DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. li the intelligence to their companions, and all showed, I am told, such sadness that the inference is either they intended a general desertion after the departure of the women, or they feared future chastisement, finding the door of escape shut, and com pelled when avoiding Charybdis to fall upon Scylla. The Mambo replied to me that he valued my friendship ; he had not, however, sent his "sons" to Tete, as his ancestors had never so done, and that, his people .did-no,|j, .extract gold, Jbecause theyjmew not what it was. Hoping that by these measures my Caffres willTnafeh farther, and that in case they desert, despite all these precautions, others will be forthcoming, I determined to dismiss the negresses who had accompanied me -with, so much good will, and who had proved themselves so useful upon the tardy journey. nth. — Caperemera came to see me, and in si/n of friendship gave me a tusk, upon which I directed the if^al mark to be placed. Thus the Treasury will be indemnified for a large cloth (roupao) and other trifles which he begged. As he would give a superabundance of porterage, even though all the Caffres should desert, his wishes must be consulted. He teUs us that he expected eighty Muizas, on account of the chiefs of another village, and that if forty or fifty men are wanted he will supply them. I cannot, however, move even to-morrow, as the porters must prepare provisions for the first few days. When the fort adjutant of Sena told him to thank the .Manes ^big ^ang^.s^ors (Muzimos),* whom these people dei^^7^r"iay"pasSng through his land, and for making him those presents, he replied that he was not a slave-boy (Caporro), and that he had a large heart.! v^ 15th. — My dependence upon Caperei»€ra made me lavish upon him the greatest signs of friendship that I have ever yet shown to man. I marvelled at myself, as I had ever detested flattery, especially of those who were powerful enough to advance me. On the other hand the Mambo, expecting all things from me after my return to Tete^slTowed no remissness in urging the presence of his Muizas ; awf moreover, he protested that he would make me i(]ir"'" (a-^g^^^-^") of all thp n]fliYf° "^'^ -ivpry that he might henceforth collect. I on my part promised to sendEmso many things that he^ftSGld be rather richer than the grand Turk ; this made the Caffre dance with joy. To ascertain the value of his tusks, I directed an official to bargain with him for a tooth, as if it were a private purchase unknown to me. . * The reverence for the Manes, or rather the ghosts, of those lately departed, is. the only sign of worship amongst these tribes. t Meaning that he was a chief, and therefore no niggard. Chap. II. RESPECT SHOWN BY THE KINGLETS. . 81 The Mambo observed that he wondered at the audl^^ of the man, who must have known the promise made to his master. I ¦asked him where was his market for slaves and ivory. He said they were sold to the Manguros,* living on the banks of, or near to, the Chire (Shire) river, who trade with the Mujanos (Wahiao), but that the greater part of the ivory exported by these Caffres comes from the Cazembe's country. My red skull-cap, dressing-gown, pantaloons, and bai^P anohsi ^.Qfltlifi, same.£ole«r, theJtint'oriiausa. that rQaa..sa..aaddett]^, the make-beHasfi^aJ-dJers, the bales (mutores) of cloth, and other tnfles, are great things so wondered at that I want.wjQldsJto -^xprfissjyieiij:SiSatiaii.iQr-iae. H'ls well to remember that the experienced Solomon found nothing but " vanitas et afflictio spiritus," or a conceited mind might have been upset by it.t In presence of this awful confession, which must sadden and terrify all the world, what enjovmeint can we find in ^things that are not founded upon the~secunty of our coh- "^sciences? ' ~~ — " ~ — — — ' — "-"• - """"Bur as moderate enjoyment in honest things is not vicious, so I accuse myself of indifference and insensibility, because I consider and hold it to be the effect of . . . .| its not proceeding from the cares which keep me ever pensive, and inaccessible to all pleasures, so that I can truly say "J IJYP ^"^ fft! ""vself an < . instant a day." When considering, in fact, that we have passed with such ease through the lands of these kinglets, excepting only the little robber who tried to molest us; that we have been received with such respect and affability where it was predicted that we must fight or pay our way — especially through those of thfi lyTofiandfl- all the world of ^ena speaking of him with ou,t- ,£tretched necks — and that my white companions and the black- slave- factorshav e been my only difficulties in carrying out the 4 commands of the Crown, I feel bursting with rage. But let us stop here. It is not right that the readers of this Diary should be made partners in my sorrows, increased as they are by the lively grief caused by the death of my beloved wife, whom God •¦ * The Manguros, according to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 420), do not live near the Shire Eiver. They are "Maraves inhabiting the banks of the Eio Nhanja " (Nyassa Lake ?), and they trade with the Arabs of the Zanzibar coast. These may be the Marungu — two tribes at the south of the Tanganyika Lake, of -whom I heard from the Arabs of Unyamwezi. Mr. Cooley (reviewing my book on .the Lake Regions) says, " It is evident that the Arabs confound the Arungo in the north-west with the Anguro in the south-east, on the other side of the Arangoa." The Anguru have been mixed up with the Wahiao. The Mujanos or Mujao, as has been said, are the Wabito. t This repeats what I remarked of negro flattery to Europeans in my ' Mission I ito Dahome.' X Here there is a lacuna. G ^ JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. IL was pleased yto take to Himself in the flower of her age, on the iirst of Aprm. Even so quoth Horace — " ut rideutibus arrident, ita flentibus adflent Humani vultus." I inquired about the Caffre way of killing elephants. The Mambo sent two iron spears, four (short) palms long, and one inch thick. One end was flat, like a lance-head, but nowhere was the iron broader than a man's thumb. The other extremity was firmly inserted into a piece of iron-wood, and the whole might weigh 8 lbs.* The sportsman climbs a tree over-r hanging the elephant's usual path, and, with this weapons which penetrates to the socket, wounds and kills the beasts as» they pass. The Manipa Caffres, who yearly come to hunt the Crown estates of the Sena district, now adopt these means which are better and more destructive. X^eaving jiside. tbfiir mtimmeries, medicingSj_ancLialiugs — which are supposed _to bring ..good liick—^when they sight a herd they separate from it some of the animals b^^^jrhooping, and then they slip at thenj_trained dogs, that engage'ffieirattention by barking from some distancer* Meanwhile the Caffres, watching their oppor tunity „^g£lgtaBg.±kem, and despatch them on the ground with their spears.f For the first time I saw the mops or head-tha.t,che.=! of the Muizas, powdered vvith dust red as c^,r^ine. Supposing the colour to be ochre,' 1 asked for a little of it, when Caperemera explained to me that it was not clay, but wood. J He gave me a cake or loaf of the dust, which has been preserved for the Crown ; and when I wanted a log or trunk, Catara told me that he would procure one for me in the lands of the Cazembe, where it abounds. We well know that the natural taste of men brought up in . the ways of simplicity rejects with loathing our highly-seasonedr food. The same ^s the cftfjfi wjtih fihfi rtiMfi^ «ptisp« Two CaffreS- of our party skilful in playing the horn performed before some Kafiaak-oi-CapeismCTajtheir compatriots, as well as to Muizas^ Hearing these souniJsTte^j^mglingsjittered terribl^jjries ; the women, the boys, and someaSraisL^d, and the field remained empty. After losing, however, their'^pajiic, all returned, and J ^ Q I ^ * This is the elephant-spear used in tfnyamwezi and the adjacent country ; the people, however, do not mount trees, bu\ thrust like the Manisa Caffres. They liave the same supei-stitious preparations. \. ¦ t The people of Ugogo, east of Unyamwezi^liD the same. X Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 28) describe an^ssketch this '- ctogengue," as the mop is called. They name the wood " pdo mucraia(sorte de ^M^aSl). The- tribes of Fernando Po also ornament their hair with a^Qwder of red wood, which. [ mistook at first for clay.' Chap. A. LEAVE CAPEREMERA'S VILLAGE. "N Q . fy§3 appeared to enjoy the instruments, perhaps more from novelty -. than from their melody, such as it was. 16'th. — I^jvas getting ready to move forward, but the Muizas had not ret'^ned from the villages, where they had been to collect millet for^Jhe first day's march. Besides which, Caffres " never hurry themseTve&nr-African Caffres at least. When sold to America they take example from their elders, and become far more diligent It is a fact a "tlrotisand times observed here, that a Caffre has never carris^ a letter witWti^ate^ even though threatened by his master with punishment for delay and bribed with cloth for despatch. ¦ At my request Caperemera sent many couriers to summon the party, who at last arrived : some of them, however, wished to return their pay rather than carry our loads. The Mambo very angrily ordered them, under pain of expulsion and com pulsion, to " clear out," and they knew the power of his bow. • He was named Capevem era., m eaning " the Brave." Sure that our Caffres wauldjiqt fly.j..£ea^^jaie^t. Mbzai^^ with its ' consequent exile from Africa — the severest penalty to a Caffre — and resolved to show them that their reign was over, I sum moned them as if to muster them, and when they were gathered together I sent soldiers to their encampment (Mussassa),* with orders to bring and break before them their bows and arrows. '' They were seized with CMsternation, it being a^dishojaoiit-to _^trayel mthout _weaponSj as only criminal£_ and fugitives go unarmed. So when^the snbjects of the King oFBarve (the Baroe) in Manila, and the people of that neighbourhood see_one of .our Caffres without, bow and arrows they sei?ehim.Jill claimed, aad take pay. .for their work and fejL his board and lodging. I left the village at 3.30 P.M.t ™'*"' 17th. — I travelled, but not as far as could be deshed or could have been done, awaiting those detained since yesterday at Caperemera's village in the hope of coUectuig fresh Muizas : to-day my Caffres being much more humane and listening to reason, which before they did not. Those left behind arrived at night, and I gave orders to collect provisions, as for some marches ahead there are no populous villages, nor can we halt ¦ in what there are, as they are not in fit places. From the abode * The " miLSiiassa " is the '.'.khamhi " or kraaW fhf ^linriiilnriirT'"*'" a collec—i' tion of little buts maae ot bougbs and dry grass, and generally surrounded by a ring of thorns ; hence the wor(ytraal from curral. t Dr. de Lacerda evidently dwecTmuch to^ffl?" Caffre friend," Caperemera, and the expedition which followed him was as generously and hospitably treated by the Muiza chief, Chinti Capenda (p. 39B). Without these moral oases in the howling waste of barbarism, the African traveller wpuld worry himself td- death. G 2 84 JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. IL of my Caffre friend the land is composed of low and gentle hiUs, partly stony, partly of good soil. In the latter are many small hamlets, and to-day we found two streams of good water, which greatly refreshed us. 18th. — The first high ridge which we traversed divides the lands of Caperemera from those of the kinglet Masse. We are still crossing sundry valleys and ridges, auriferous but unworkable for want of iron tools, skilled labour, and high water,* except such as could be brought from afar. The streams run, more or less, from W.N.W. to E.S.E., and their watershed forms, I believe, the Aruangoa Eiver.f I called the range Cordilheira Carlotina.f This was our first day of travel, if real marching be regarded. 19th. — Wishing to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's satellites, which will occur to-morrow, andwanting a place with .a name. I made a forced march, so as to reach the village of Mazavamba. We halted at the Eiver Ircupuze (Ircusuze),§ qfter traversing 20th — At the end of the wildest and roughest of our marches'* lay the village of Mazayamba. a great thief. All the resident Muizas and Botombucas || who came to see me were exceedingly drunk, and JVra.7.a.ja.mbaj ¦ctrhQ-.-f.nntpnP.d his. fiarp.USe till the 22nd> wa&,tQa.iiax..£giaQe j!Q..Yisi|.,gl.g.1F I found the position of the viUage to be in time 2''- 45M[6V«. e. 41° 26' 30" E. of Lisbon ( = 32° 18' 18" E. of -Greenwich), and in S. lat 12° 33'. The variation was N.W. 21° 58' 30". 21sif. — I had an attack of ague and fever, which was increased by the news that the greater part of the Muizas had deserted. Caperemera behaved like a friend, sending back to me those who arrived at their villages, and punishing the families of 'those who hid themselves in the bush. The want of supplies and the small quantities of provisions brought in cause conster nation to aU the Caffres of our party. * " Agoas altas,'' means waters -with a fall for " hydraulicking." t The watershed is still to the Shire Eiver or to the Nyassa Lake. So in Mon teiro and Gamitto the Eucuzi Eiver and Eivulet.^ed«to th.e„east. _ X The traveller having now reached the outliers of the great mountain-plateau known as Serra Muxinga, named them Carlotina, in memory of t). Carlota, wife of the Prince Eegent of Portugal. It is the southern boundary of the northern Arangoa river-basin, and its northern slopes discharge into the Bemba or Bangweolo Lake. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 125) term Masse "Mambo Muasse," and call this part of th^Kghlands Serra Capire. It is alluded to by Dr. Livingstone, who, writingtgi^e late Earl of Clarendon from Ujiji (November 1, 1871), describes it as k,^*5untain mass, not exceeding 6000 or 7000 feet in altitude, and rising from a'broad upland between S. lat. 10° and 12°, and over 700 miles in length from east to west. , _ " 5 Ihds "il'SSl eiliyUftlUll tailed it Eiacho Eucuzi, the northern streamlet of that name flowing to the west when the southern sheds eastward. II See August 11th. t This frequently happened to my expedition when crossing Ugogo. JJT Chap. IL HALTNBAR THE REMIMBA RIVER. 85 22nd. — I spent all the last night and the greater part of to- -day cogitating how to collect bearers that will not willingly abandon their loads. Then I issued an order containing the reasons for my resolution,* and I gave it to the chief captain of^ the bush, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, and to the chief sergeant,' Jose Eodrigues Caleja. 23rd. — From Mazavamba's village I made for the Northern Aruangoa Eiver. The ague and fever which attacked me so violently on the 21st inst., came on to-day with increased vigour, from 9 A.M. to 9 p.m. Suffering it as I best could, we marched upon the Eiver Eemimba : only a brook at this season, it must carry a considerable volume during the rains. I halted at a village near that stream, not so much to nurse my ague as to collect provisions for 3J to 4 days of march upon the nearest Muiza village. The price of provisions was six times greater than through the lands of the Maraves to the Mocanda ; beyond the latter point they will sell nothing except for cloth, despising our first-class beads (velorios) because, as I have said, they have larger samples. Enough to say that there a goat costs one chuabo, a cloth of any quality : here its value is not less than six, and other things are in proportion. The worst is our not being able to buy wholesale. Each Caffre brings from his yearly store a small portion, at the utmost reaching a " quarta " (fourth of a bushel).t In the same river appeared fish called ]^gjyjj^,| small, .but savoury ; they are equally good and larger at Tete; dmjng tia,wi.i)ter.(«.e., ¦wet *©ason§) these, perhaps, may attain the same size. There are also other species, owing to thcaoastoinQsis .of this stream with the Aruangoa Eiver; they describe the latter to me as tolerably broad, but at the present season shallow. 2^th. — In order not to place my people in the wretched state of having nothing to eat, and no provisions for the three or four days of desert-march (sertao), I did not purge myself to-day, and from 1 a.m. I be^gn to cut short the ague jyith quinine. We halted at the village of Capangura, tEe mosrwretched"yet met with ; there was absolutely nothing for sale ; no rations (Maronda) were brought even when the highest prices were * In a foot-note we learn that the paper has been lost. t The traveller now approaches the waste lands that divide the basins of the Northern Arangoa and the Chambeze rivers. The water-parting is a N.E. prolongation of the Serra Muchinga, called by Dr. Livingstone " Lobisa Plateau." This is the desert which caused such losses to the expedition that followed Dr. de Lacerda. X Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 193) mention this fish, and compare it with tho " dourada " of Portugal. § In these lands the rains begin in our autumn, reach their height in December, and end with our spring (see Sept. 7th). 86 JOURNAL OF DR. DE LACERD'A. Chap. II offered. A little before reaching the village of Mazavamba, the mountains which begin at the other end near the settlements of Caperemera and Masse terminate ; the chain is all auriferous, but, for the reasons before stated, it will be hard to work. 25^^. — This day (thirtieth) I resumed my Diary, though still suffering very severely from fever, of which I have had four attacks since the end of March. I did not expect to escape the three first. Perhaps the third would have been less trouble some, had I not been travelling, and in want of everything. Enong-b to aay that bis Fxp.ellp.np.y the Governor of the Eios de ^S^a^ the successor of those heroes who never left the ^ouse exy^ j;eptjn a sedan chair with two largQ velvet ^un;tQpts(]3ml)reIlas'). jjarim^^^^^Iverkn^^Tn^botl^^ in order that the glances oJFjffi^X^S^f^ Day,'" even though setting, might not annoy them ; who lived wrapped up in .silks.^.ajidLm-the_.light-estJsdiite . clothing ; who often suffered from indigestions and other incon^ "vemences, th^ pfff^.o.i. nf a. tr^p piplf^pdid and prnfn.se diet, audwho ..£nally ,pass£d.,jii.ei,r.,,tinie, in, scattering cloth, and in gathering gold ancl.^^^ry — this successor, I say, spent many an hourl shirtless, anowrapped up in a baize, because his clothes were! left behind, while during his sickness he had not a chicken forj broth. " Deus super omnia !" The route, which I never ceased tracii!ig"W&%'"'himmes of my greatest weakness, serves me as a guide to work up this Diary. I cannot, however, offer very many details, as my malady often prevented my taking notice of everything. After marching two hours we made the (Northern) Aruangoa Eiver.* Its breadth is irregular, ovring to the friable nature of the banks. Where I crossed it was sixteen to eighteen fathoms wide, and three and a-half palms (1 ft. 2 in. ? ) deep. Seeing that it can be navigated by all manner of boats only durjng the rains, I did not carry out my intention of sending down one of the officers to Zumbo, the settlement at its junction with the Zambeze. As far as the Aruangoa J hnd '^"* »pwa-fl. single tree XiLJEti©h*A--g©0d?"»iaed...jda»k^.43©«ld™ be made; beyond it, bul; only on the lands adjoining the course, many fit both for boards and for canoes were found gromflg. A number of Muizas marched along the river, *ei lov-"" Mpnopot^ami. All the Caffres foi these lands and, as far as I see, of Inner Africa generally, vprize the flesh, and the more tainted it is the better they like it. |'rf«'te«UMiW*n^..Mi«..u.sU»i*.«*." * According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 139), when they were encamped at a place 5 leagues from the village of Mazavamba, they were 2J leagues from this AruangSa, which they forded on September 6, 1831. It must be remembered that the second expedition crossed the stream, June 12th, west of Dr. de Lacerda's line, whilst Dr. Livingstone marched i;hetween the two very neai-ly as far as the Chambeze Eiver, (See September 8tli.) ( 87 ) CHAPTEE III. The March prom the Northern Aruangoa Eiveb, till the Death of Dr. de Lacerda. August 26, 1798. — This day I made a long march to reach a lake or lagoon; all ihp grnnnd x^as T»a.vkftf^ with e1ppba.qtR' trails, the first seen since we left 'Tete.* ^ 27tli. — I halted near the village of Caperampande,t and, with the view of sending carriers to assist the second division, I waited over the 28th instant, supposing that these people are subject to, or at least that they fear, the Cazembe, and would not dare to desert like those of Caperemera. 28th. — I could not obtain people ; they were numerous enough, but they demanded for four days as much as the Muizas had received for the whole journey to the country of the Cazembe : they at last confessed that, not being accustomed to caiTy, they would leave their packs on the path.:|: The millet harvest-home having just ended, here, as in the land of Mazavamba, the people are in a constant state of drink, which they call a festival. Since my arrival the drum has never been_ fiilfjllti flit ^^f^^*, and when I asked if it was to collect a party for me, they rephed " No ;" it was a sign that on the morrow they would "raise Pombe." After inquiry, I found the phrase to mean that, when the ,^ j^ffl^y,, gr, yillagechief. caused his jrum to sound in that Kay,^i,ttinl{aiii!affM?^^l'^^ .sons.T * or "suhjects, to come on th^^jg^itJajupi^^ twlllof. country-beer to oe drunk with , shouting (war cries?) and dancing. „. 29ih. — A short margh- to water. Passing the village of Cape rampande, I found the people at their orgies with the red wood- dust, before mentioned, covering their hair, which thus looks as if the stuff lay upon it in swathes. The place appeared a hell — ^ , V ¦^-^ '"v^ * The wooded lands noticed on August 26th account for the /presence' of elephants. -^ 1/ f We find (Diary, August 16th) that Caperemera means'" the brave " : this word is' also evidently a compound, to he pronounced OaperjiuppnTifle, . ' } Though a superior race to those of the seaboard, the inner peoples of Africa /are often less manageable by the traveller than the " mMt rj'Jni'""' " ¦ they are . ' ihnnlaitfiliy ifpinrnnt fff-jihr-Ttiliar fif iiiiiinry, ind thcj refuse-Jg ahate whatever their j iwant of knowledge demands. . . .. ^ . 88 JOURNAL OF DR. DE LACER]^. Chap. III.. the Muizas its devils. On the festal days when they coUect to ¦ drink, all wear their best clothes, if they have any. 30th. — At the beginning of the march we ascended low and gentle ridges, which were followed by one that was high, great, and rough : it trends, they tell me, to the Zambeze and the River Chire (Shire). It is called Serra Muchingua. I named it Antonina, in honour of our august Prince, whom the Lord pros- 31s^. — At 6.30 A.M. I broke up the camp and entered ajaaftt, .gpacious valley scattered with settlements ; from the Aruangoa Eiver to this place the land is too rough and stony, too arid and waste, to invite lingering. A multitude of Muizas begged me to stop and be stared at : they ran after us, men and women, J more than a quarter of a league.i^trampling on one another. /clearing the bushes, jaJtog^aa^-Eoiliog. (arranh§jiclft-:SiejU-jat_ rt)ur feet, but were persistent in satisfying their curiosity.f They do not carry bows and arrows, like the Maraves, and^inboth _ tribes J never remember seeing a lame or a maiined nmn. "Finally, amongst the Muizas to-day there was not an inch of cotton-cloth, all being dressed inMiUs^^iixi^s. Seji)t.i,1798. — As the powerful Muiza kinglet Mucungure — of whom they say that he is not really a subject, but an ally„ of the Cazembe — was absent from the village, 1 marched to meet him in the place where he lives. Thus I hoped to succour the second division, which must have suffered from hardship and hunger. These difficulties arose from the Tete Caffres having deserted after hearing their proprietors exaggerating the diffi culties and dangers, the terrors and horrors, of a journey before made by Manoel Caetano Pereira, and by the slaves of D. Fran cisca, of Curvo, and of others. The country to-day travelled over is high and irocky; the settlements are small, wretched, and starving. It«ia,aad-ia~see !jq, ma.nyjyeJiijnaa^^-^'^^Ttfltof^'^^M.ma^ .,«i4hr teeth •destr-oyed.-^by .¦thaiQsa..of . enamjeL whaa4a.p;^aatuaUJiianiJi^^ This deformity is Fashion's work — of whom we may say, as the Latin poet said of langMge-^'"" • " Si volet usus, .|l Quern penes arbitrium est, et jus." 1 1 TMs..^xcuses every folly and. ridi.q3Jfe of dress, and adds arti- * This is the well-kno-wn Serra Muxinga, a name which Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 171) have very properly retained. It is spelt Maxenga or Machinga by Mr. Macqueen, and Muchingue by Mr. Cooley, who translates it the " deep defile." See note to August 18th, of Dr. de Lacerda's ' Diary.' t This scene I have fiequently witnessed in Central Africa, where the people never knew any " white " but an Albino. X I never saw the enamel injured by jagging, but it is by smoking, and moro so by chewing tobacfio-mijiced-w^ith-eatth^ lime, or saltpetre. w AP. m. VISIT PROM MAMBO MUCUNGURE. £cial to the naturqj pfii.gAri>,jji of human life. What a profit to| a people who, contented with modesty^ decorum, and cleanli-l ness, would mMster -to-the caprice, the vanity, and the folly off others, that limjipon.-such trifles andrunneeegsaKKJgEentionsl La Mode, I believe, would thus be tlie most valuable article of i traffic to a nation that refused to use her. 2nd. — About midday Mucungure visited me with a long "^^taji," under two yery ft](^ a.nf) hrnkon iiT|^brfi]]aff^ preceded by many drums, which, with the clamour of his people, made a truly infernal music. He appeared to be in his second child-''' hood ; and when I began to talk business about his assisting my people, two of his magnates told me not to trouble myself — that all should be done. He brought a pair of wives : these ladies, like himself and his subjects, wore tree-barks with girt waists. ' Thq Caffre.t! and fjieirspmiHes habituall^_apgea£Jn Jhepoorest attires, by this mute Iangtiagg~gp|?sgi^ for cloth. ""XTuiough, for reasons above giveii^"Tliav^ no'gb'od opinion of, or trust in, the Muizas, I was satisfied with this chief and his grandees, who gave me 50 men to forward those left behind. 3rd. — To-day I was confirmed in my opinion, that all the Muizas are not subject to the Cazembe, bj^^^ggeiBg-^ilia-tfespect ' .ScLth which. Catara. a..a)i]j.tJfj..ftf..tihPi king, spnkfi toJihe Mambo. JitttGiuigure. My questions elicited the [fact that 'the latter is , an independent and powerful Caffre. Simil3,y falsehoods were told to me by eye-witnesses when I was serving the Crown inri Mato-Grosso : this caused great expense to the Eoyal Trea- ' sury, whilst I and my companions went through many perils and ¦hardships, spending six months near the Lake Xaraos, hemmed in between the Payagua and the Equestrian (Cavalleiro) tribes, the bravest in our America. These things, I say, have made of me a complete .£,yrrhonist. I remember having heard Manoel Caetano Pereira and^^TVIuizas asseverate that on this side of the Aruangoa Bivep- begin^jgast ¦.pampas and .plaias : * hitherto the country has changed in nothing from thaJauailJiJaads which commence at Tete, except in the better or in the worse quality of its soil. / . j Mh. — To-day we had three troubles, — a long mardfi to water \ tlirough a depopulated country (the most easily endured), a thigh- deep. .m,a.r A.near . a... jjdge ; and, thirdly, the most dangerous, a ^rass-firey which surrounded us, and which gave us great trouble to"escape. Being sure that the Caffres can no longer fly, I did not administer at the village of Caperemera corporal punish ment, that they might be able to march ; yet two of those who escorted me, believing that they could escape castigation, did \ \ * He will presently find out that this is correct. 90 JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. III. their best to deserve it. After sending an order for them to be flogged, one of them, being a head-man (Mocazembo), was' put into thei bilboes.* This example has so altered the Caffres that I no Ibiiger recognise them : they are now most obedient ; they are ready without murmuring to make any march I please, nor do they require driving to work. And, remembering Hippo- crates.— "jQ.uae apphcata i]iEant>4aomti.niMto....saBflaL!!-— I shall not forget to apply to future sick men a remedy which has already worked so well. Bri^verY. honour, a.nd fear keep men fin the right^ nath. The'^wofirstvirtu'es have "tea so lar irom Caffre-land that no human force _can_bring,_theia.J?ack ; to "the third, however, the people arelBy no means insensible ; ^sJ^ a§_^_^ey___care nought for good or evil to come, they require at times a present example to bring them to a sense of their duty. 5th. — In 1 hr. 45' we crossed the Serra Eodrigo, passing over a level break in the mountains, and then down a very gentle and easy declivity. The wintry rains flowing from this open coimtry, and those of the other serra near which I halted, form a second swamp as troublesome as that of yesterday. 6th. — ^To-day the shrubs and bush which cover these lands were so thick that the Caffres who carried our luggage found it hard to remove them.^,^^3he depopulation of the place,, the •famished state of our party, the marghes, our having •to cut •lines and paths, and the thirst whietr^en afflicts us, the fevers caused by nightly cold and by fierce suns of day — to say nothing yoi my sicsirggg-— aircombine to'make theland aBBSa.r wild and sad. Were there game to supply the want of millet, or small ^ tiirds to charm us with their song, the transit would have%eeh less tedious. I'or" the ""last "three days we have made much v^esting. I never supposed that we should have to approach so npaTthe Equinoctial line. 1 7th. — As soon as I marched, the Caffres began their jour ney. Noteworthy are the uniformity and regularity of the^ ground during the last three stages. After a serra or ridg^ whose end, however, is not perceptible, but whose breadth is inconsiderable, comes an open country of a league and more;^ then a lagoon, and finally another similar ridge.t I halted at a ^arge streamlet,^ near a settlement, and from this point forwards the land becante more populous. In the village I saw two Muiza iron-smelmng furnaces; they were too ruinous to give f* Na gargalheira, an Afirico-Lusitanian word ; the Anglo- African phrase is "i^ 1m\^' r m \ -——... «.«.__, J^" *fT Showing that the country rises in steps and plateaux to the north. i t ?S2;J.?JSf'^'SspeciaiwfeBrazyiaajJia^ I'ich JfljiaMfi&jQtaiSfily .(Jescripnon of water-ooursef See ray ' Highlands of the BmzilsT ¦€hap. III. UNRELIABLENESS OP CAPFRE INFORMATION. ' 91 me an idea of their construction, but Catara assured me that in the Cazembe's country I should view all at my ease. The furnaces appeared to me conical and truncated pyramids.* An evening spent in questioning Catara convinced me that without a knowledge of the language of, au(|,^jT^l;j.ft, of inter(>nnrf;fi jgith. these people, their informatics is useless, and that nothing " they say is reliable. To-day he contradicted the deposition which I had taken from him and from Manoel Caetano Pereira touching the Muropiie being the father of the Cazembe.f In order not to be ^ever saying and unsay,iag. I will wait for information in the'^Jovpn (Zimlboe) % of the said king, and then ' set down all that I know for certain. The Muizas count months by mqo^. of which they have eight good (dry) and four bad (wet); the twelve make their^ year, which begins with the first bad moon : this at present is the rainy season, corresponding with our December. The want of judgment and discernment of these Caffres, the difficulty' of finding a man who understands their language, and at the same time one instructed in chronology, and (as I perceive by| their replies) the pertinacity with whiP-l^ tllfi ^"/^!;]']^'''^^-^''" '^jgf figure my -a."e-gp.nca-Q£ t,h,e. JjiflMfiir^- make me ,4espair of obtaining from th| •Caffres much_information of the kind wanted^by learned mer Jose Thomaz U-omes, fort adjufaiTt of ^ena, is an excellen linguist for non-scientific purposes ; he knows most of the Caffrl dialects, and he easily .learns them. He has hitherto served me well, and I hope that in the city of the Cazembe he will serve the Crown still better. 8th. — To stifle our hunger and collect six days' rations at the village of Morungabambara, near the Zambeze Eiver,§ I went to-day a long march through champaign lands clearer than before, and lacking high ridges and difficult swamps. I passed * Monteiro and Gamitto explain them (p. 38), and give a sketch of one, fig. 2. ,„.,., y^ t The fact is that the traveller had misunderstoodJnftiJS3]flAiti.MP''"''i ' V^ X Monteiro and Uamitto"i;!^'rT2K;"l!tb.) write" llie word Zimhaoe'. Mr. Cooley rightly prefers ZimbS-we, and translates it " royal residence." African kings often live in quarters, or even in detached towns, inhabited solely by their wives j and families, their fetish men and their slaves. An instance o^his is Fuga in ( Usumbara. ^ § The reader wiU bear in mind that this is the " River Chambeze," famed for oysters, of MM. Monteiro and Gamitto's map, flowing to the left or south-west, and now known to fall into the Bangweolo Basin or Bemba. In his wonderful ' Inner Africa Laid Open,' p. 28, Mr. Cooley calls it the " New Zambeze," and to fit his theories he makes it turn to the north-east and fall into his fabulous^ " N'yassi, or the Sea." Dr. Livingstone crossed it in S. lat. 10^ 34', further east than Lacdrda, whose line again was 60 to 62 miles east of Monteiro and Gamitto. .(See- note to August 21si.) ,92 ^ ^^ ^ jqURNAL OP DR.U2E LACERDA. | C^hap. Hit, some villages — what villages ! — four . or five huts, so small and low that one can hardly guess how the Muizas can lodge in them. It is well known that a cylinder or an upright conical pyramid forms the Caffres' houses. Amongst the Maraves the cylinder base may have a radius of 6 (long) palms (6 X 8=48 inch.=4 ft. diameter), and 4 to 5 of height Upon this cyhnder is placed the pyramidal roof, and as the radius of its^ base is broader than the cylinder, the projecting eaves defend the huts from the violent rains, increase the difficulty of enter ing and make the interior very dark. Those of the Muizas are even smaller in base and height, and I wonder how several people can subject themselves to occupy a single tenci- ment* IStill we see many animals inhabiting clqijie and narrow ^ 9th. — The village referred to lies but a short way off the road; being indisposed, I did not visit it, though they tell me it is one of the largest we have passed. The Muizas sold but little millet-flour, because they possess httle : this, too, in early "harvest time! — what will they have in three months hence, and how do they manage in years of scarcity? The meal offered by the Maraves was very white ; amongst these negroes^ it is wheat-coloured, because they do not clean it of the bran lest the waste should leave them without food. Necessity obliges- ^TTia.ri ^f,p, p.1^ tJliT^PTP- For this small quantity tLey boe the ground into mounds, and upon these they plant millet and some beans. I judge that one of the bases of their support is the ¦ sun-dried and sliced sweet potato {Convolvulus batata) ;t of that they sold a fair portion, but they would not take up the fresh, although it was either full-ripe or over-ripe. Sometimes they attempted to sell the old, reserving the fresh for their own use. Half a bushel (alaueire) of flour, a chicken, and a little basket of sweet potatoes, was the present sent to me by the powerful ^lorungabajx^tipaf We raised our hands in thanks to Heaven, when, after abundant difficulty, we bought ten lean cockerels^ which seemed to us so many fat turkeys. We also obtained jome ground-nuts, of which we mj.de oil-as ¦'^egggnigg tg jmr jiQQ, lest_th.emeat an^T dripping_might injure our stomachs and ^]t^.,piodu£e_^ainruT thirst. The information touching salt existingin~tEis'~coiintfy, as given by Manoel Caetano Pereira and by the Caffres, is wrong : if there be any, it is so little that not a grain has appeared. What there is comes from the city * Monteiro and Gamitto (pp. 84, 362) give a sketch of these huts. They are not so uncomfortable as our author imagines, being cool in hot weather, warm in the cold season, and air-tight at night— a defence a,gainst aa;uf anil fever. t I found this foooSTSvounte about MSBneTin Western Unyam-wezi; the leaf also makes a tolerable salad. -Chap. III. REACH THE ZAMBEZE. 93 •of the Cazembe or from its vicinity, where, they teU me, are salt-mines as at Tete. 10th. — After 1 hour 20 minutes' march we reached the Zambeze (Chambeze), measuring some 25 fathoms (brapos) in breadth, and at this season from 4 to 5 palms (2 feet 8 inches to 3 feet 4 inches). Here end ihp st.a.Tye]inp; la.ndsj nf ihpfp JugJiEliailfid-and ringleted people. The number of Muizas passing to the dominions of Caperemera was, not without reason, agreeably to our proverb, " "Vyhf^ I fm .KfiUi. tihfi''ft-J'^ i my home."* A^ the Caffres are perfectly happy when they can £St,wltFout- labour, and as thgy^must wo^ nam'to'Ti^ in t£eir qwn_ lands, whereas in the_ JMfarave couSrj -they haveir* afanda£fife«aatho;^jix^ sweat of. brow, we_ cannot inary el at ^ their emigration. I do not regard those who stay at home with so much norror for being ^-J^thrqpophagi. since "necessity." which, as they say, " has no law, ' compels them, after every opportunity of battle, to batten upon human flesh, 'even if "ttis abominable custom does not proceed from saiislying their wrath'' 'and revenge. On the other hand, again, I make their ignorance an excuse for the unnatural action ; for what is the African know ledge of good and evil ? — they seem to me. indeed, not to kn,Q.w'^ that they have reason, it i had brought the geographical^ oooks which 1 left arTete, I should now imitate the Barber Maese Nicolas and the Licentiate Pero Perez,t when they burned j to ashes Amadis de Gaul and all the chivalrous "library of the ingenuous "^pight^Don Quixote. 'Jhus wouCTTTaTOpunished thelauthors for dSignrinp- the fap.A nf1h,a_£ajth. desmhing whatever their lancies (heated wither um .and strong liquors, im- Mbea^!^fflSffE^old) painted duringsl^p; attributing to whole, ipeopies a"nd nations characters 'whi^f'^evneithQ^' have nor ¦ever had; 1' would do the saine with what they~say of the "Paulistas, to whom Portugal knows not how much she is indebted, or, if she knows, at any rate she does not recognise the 4ebt ; and also with that which a celebrated modern Portuguese -{I know not whether as author or translator, but certainly as impostor and defamer) said so impudently with respect to the Americans, that he blushes not at being impeached for falsehood or credulity, since we are not in the Iron Age ; all, excepting those : who have written or spoken things which approach the trath as 1 declared by studious men of known veracity, not by secular' (ignorant) minds that take no interest in the progress of -science.^ I would also burn the manuscripts in which I took * This is the " Dmne solum forti patria." a truth so distasteful, to the Earl of \ •Chatbam, and whibh railways and steamers realise to our minds every day. -—fs^e Chap. VL j This fearful sentence is left as a specimen of the diffloulties of translation. «S4 "* ' . JOURNAL OP DR. DE, LACERDA. Chap. III. down the depositions of Manoel Caetano Pereira and the Muizas, touching the journey to the Cazembe, at least the parts proved so far from truth, if I had but time to expurgate them, or if there were anyone to do it for me. But in timo ,,jnSitiriPi fihallJIaSJ^e ; meanwhile remains to me the consolation , nf bpjnfy a. pnnr gpng-raphpr. vet One qL the. jjgjjaagt veridiques, aarn lymg m^iumOiCrmW-' especialljtba.t, _rjf,„ ,f\Jlr^^,(^i^.^ ,Afrf^.a^ and Asia^JjamLdiiiLiD c.^riLe.Jina.'' " iViy principal desire being to obtain exact notices of the size and the direction of all streams found between Tete and the Cazembe's country, and from the latter to Angola, I laboured to extract information from different Muiza Caffres, and from Manoel Caetano Pereira, jmaking repeated^ and ^^^ com pared uniformly and repeatedly assurer me that the Zambeze "(Cham- beze) and the Eupurue Eiver * — 15 fathoms broad and deeper than the Zambeze at the part where I forded it to-day — ran to the right of one travelling to the Cazembe. Pereira confirmed tjais information ; from which^^J^^Jgfer^tbat he knows not his ^gM,.iifflffi,Msdeft hand ;'an3'^3^S]&"e. ffie casVsiice SeKas almost alwaysfivea amongst the Caffres, and has inherited yje^j^gUij^nce, as experience is showing me. To-day I sent to inquire about the course of the Zambeze (Chambeze) from sundry Mussucumas. a tribe mixed in small numbers with the Muizas on tkis sioe of the Zambeze, some of them vassals to the Cazembe (these were my informants), and others independent, t All said that it trends to the river which runs by the city of the Cazembe,t whatever be the truth ot their information, which at present I neither allow nor dis allow. "¦ "^ 11th. — To-day nothing remarkable occurred, except that the ridges and hillocks from Tete to the Zambeze (Chambeze) Eiver are now ended. 12th. — During the march we covered some leagues of open, plain, with as many of the usual ground, and we left on the /right hand a great standing water. We halted in the large and populous viUage^TiEEBTumo Chinimba Campeze. Here I was The " Paulistas " I have already explained are the people of the Province of S. Paulo, in the Brazil, who waged of old fierce wars with the Jesuit Spanish colonies, and were abused aQcordingly by Charlevoix and his class. "' Mr. Cooley (' Inner Aerica Laid Open,' p. 29) insists upon changing this to Risuro, a " Mucomango word. ' In Kihiao, or the language of Jhe once powerful Wahito tribe, "Mesi" (Maji in Kisawahili) is water, and Rusuro, or Lusuro, is flowing water — a stream. _____ t Tbe Musukuma seems to be an unimportant tribe. "Usukuma,"' in: Unyamwezi. means tbe "northern country." - *¦ ¦< ^TfTttSfBffllTBJsnil JOllis tht! tinapula,Tnid this we know to be correct Chap. III. AMENITIES OP PUMO CHIPACO. 95 visited by sundry Muizas returning from the city of the Cazembe with ivory, intended for sale to the Caffres of the Eastern Coast. From two of the slaves I attempted to extract some information touching the Eiver Chire (Shire). They replied that their nation did not travel, and that it is only since the Cazembe conquered them in war that ^hey ever leave their country, and even that now they never go further than the city of that king. Some Caffres sent to buy fowls failed to procure any. A tribute of poultry is exacted by the Cazembe, to whom the people send as many as they breed. 13th. — We spent an hour in crossing the worst swamp yet^ seen. Many Muizas passed us yesterday, coming from the king with ivory and copper-bars for sale. I now think with reason that the great number of tusks which once went to Mozam bique, and which certainly came from these lands, goes at pre sent to Zanzibar, or the neighbourhood, not only because they get more for their ivory, but also because Zanzibar is nearer than our possessions.* nth. — A short march placed me at the village of Fumo Chipaco, the largest and the most populous of all. I judge that this must be one of the grandees, as Catara spoke of him with respect. He at once sent him to call upon me, with a civil message that, as a friend of his master, I was in my own country, and that he, as a slave of the Cazembe, was also mine ; moreover, that all things in his village, and in those under his command, were at my disposal. J. was pleased by such atjisp.- Jiion, and by a message which I never expectea to near irom a TTafFre wEo had never seen any butl^aflres.ir [^'"""SgTcanhofltEiiik' oi" ahylhing but my present undertaking, I begged from him people "to assist the 2nd Division, of which he had already heard from Catara. The latter lay sick at a village near the Eiver Zambeze (Chambeze). He answered that he would give me as many as I wanted, and that he would presently ^^^ i^i° '^r^mn tn p"'iirfi tjlfi f^liil'iPTTl^^Y ^'""^ to collect all, when I could take what number I pleased. His answer about our provisions is also worthy of being recorded literally.. " TeU the Mambo that he is in the village of Chipaco." 0 vanity * This was the case two-thirds of a century ago, and of late years the Zanzibar market has greatly increased. I stated, in 1859, that the north of the Nyassa or Kilwa Lake had been visited by hundreds of caravans (' Journal of the Boyal ^ Geographical Society,' vol. xxix. p. 272). Mr. Cooley, who quotes largely from' Doctor de Lacerda, but who apparently has read him partially (' Review,' p. 15), calls this a "monatrous_a3sertion." simply bet-f^'iKP thev would thus march' .ftTfif '^'° r'1THy'*1lTl''fT'"'"'y i"""" " " Livingstone has performed this feat. during his" last "expedition, and apparently yaa nolj aim^e of the-imgg^g^jlp^t-it. V t The contrary is the case ; thj """ ' rudeness as.het,date3 Jo^ffect. ntlv was not a-ware ot tne-imno^sibilit-.. N ic^n Dorrowing iroinTneyji:uropep.jji,,^3 aunh. 3S" W f^^in^---'-"^"'- Y 96 JOURNAL OP DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. IH. and amour propre ! Is it possible that, even in the depths of ,tlie jungle, thou canst not leave free from thy poison these wild, half-naked men ? Bjut vicas are born with us. We will see if his works belie thesegood signs. I hope not, as yesterday and to-day we have seen many human skulls and (Corpses cast out upon the road. Tliasg,J^;equent examples must jnake men respect and fear this king ; as the latter,'Tn^^mew, so'ught oiir friendship, they will "hot fail to assist us.* Some of those wretches had lost their lives for witchcraft, the^ being a belief in all this part of Africa, even amongst manyWnites (as I saw in Mozambique), that no. man ever dies except by sorcery, t Whenever a Caffre accused of this crime denies his gmlt^sdine .coarsely confess their guilt — he undergoes the Mave ordeaLt It consists in administering a tincture of some bark (the'free being called Muana), which is a violent purgative, and, as the dose is copious, the wretch generally dies in horrible pains. When I lay very sick on this side of Java (Jaua), the Muizas said that, had-the Cazembe been in my case, many would have teen slain. How blmd, how heavy, and how affiicting, is this Thraldom of Sathanas ! How gentle, how peaceful, is the yoke of Jesus Christ! If the supposed wizard is lucky enough to vomit, his innocence is feted with great joy, and his accuser is ¦fined. The Maraves burn their sorcerers.^ 15ih. — Siiice crossing the Aruangoa Eiver my illness kept me between palanquin and bed. Wishing to receive at my ease the visit of Chipaco, and to return the visit which he paid me to-day, so as to despatch sixty men to-morrow, I entered my palanquin. His settlement is large, though it does not appear so. According to country custom the huts are so close, and without order, that my vehicle could hardly thread its way between them, and so small are the tenements, it was often carried over the lower part of the roofs. ¦Chipaco alone supplied us with sweet potatoes and meal, besides that which we were obliged to buy from his subjects. He also offered to lead in person sixty Caffres for the assistance of our lag-behinds. and thus he hoped to avoid the chastisement of the Cazembe" for idleness on the part of his " sons." His second in oommand, however, undertook this commission — such is the fear and respect with which they regard their king. *M is_always a pleasure, after travellinaL-tIa;e«sh-the ye"ii-rgpBHirfan.-tribes •of Africa/ to (imlejiujien^-quarters^^a strong ^nd .sangmnaLY despotism. ^.:'t This is the universarnegnrbelieT" X Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 89) describe and sketch the "Mu^ve^fltda^l." This poisoning, the " Sassy jfSaucv') Water." the; '^ jod-Jwatcr," '{be '''.Ctilnhnr. (or ordeal) bean " of the Western Coast," and the Tanjina of Madagascar, is flmost universsd in Africa. — an* § I f"'iT;d fliia piiat/jjii ,>f hiiping magicians fearfully prevalent in the Lake legions, es^e^ally among the Wakhhliur \ Chap. IIL CAPPRE GREETING CEREMONIES. 97 This Fumo, when visiting me, 'Jose up brusquely, and re- tired, as if cutting short the conversation : i wondered at the proceedings -airdr" thought" that perhaps he had been offended by me unintentionally. But two Caffres, who had thrice made this journey, informed me, in reply to my question if any cause of scandal had been given, that such is the custom of the grandees, and that I must not be astonished to see it in the king's city.* This gives me an opening to describe Caffre greeting cere monies between slaves ar*^ fipo/lTrLCLn, and between Maraves, Munhaes,t Muizas, and other natives known to us. With „ scanty difference it is almost the same. When Caffres meet and wish to salute one another they mutually clap palms in measured time and in silence, after which they enter into con-" versation. When visiting they do the same : but if the master of the house be unwell, he does not beat hands, and his visitor, seeing the state of things, does it softly. It is not a fixed rule to clap palms, each one slaps the part of t.^g body whifb, according jo jjosition, he deems most suitable. Amongst some '^V.gt.i'ri^T'CTTPtJ^pj^'iTi the "pres'ea'ce' of their „cfeigfgt, lie,.-oii-t^©Hr _&i^gg;==a^i|^^£33SOTityT'ourljames, and the labourers of 'the Crown lands, when not in revolt, do the same. The Maraves. and others who are not subject to us. nevQ]- pi-pfitrate "tEemselyesT"^^ In their own country it is a token of friendsEjip for, "or an acknowledgment of benefit, gift, or praise from, a white man. The Muizas on these occasions also rub dust on the breast and arms, and' I lastly, on the breast: ^^ fflflil''" bfiat .pa.lTns ¦syith,.t]hfi.J'Md.'' ¦Hprni..iPd^ f).a tve dn jn pr^y'^J'-i -whilst tJia.jKfliaen^held-the.iB' Jionzontally. i6fh.— Wiih a mind somewhat at ease I continued my march, and, after crossing some rivulets, at the end of the day's work we forded sundry large streamlets ; besides others, the Eicena and Mocanda. The Caffres never pronounce this initial " E " as if it were double.} Before arriving at these waters, whether great or small, the land slopes gently down, and, after passing "¦ The great ' Times ' Correspondent, Dr. William H. Russell, complamed, wft may remember, of ty """-a o^|.^^pfnQaq jn the citizens of t^"* TTnifipfl atatga It is generally the case^tn Africa, where it contrasts strongly witn the elaborate < nature of the greeting when.ffiglkmeet. "" t'"A!(ii4Waflrg' to MonfeSo aood Gamitto (p. 47, &c.) the Munhaes, neighbours of the Maraves, live on the west of the Great Zambeze, and are governed by the Mambo as OhfidMaa. whom the Portuguese call the MononMta£a;__They are evi dently the Banyai of Dr. Livingstone. 1 According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 205) the 'IK" is not pronounced, and the "j^' often takes its place, as Luena and Levugolor Euena and Eevugo. This is general amongst the Maraves. I have elsewhere spoken of other tribes. H 98 JOURNAL OF DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. III. over the bed, it rises similarly ; so that the drains flow either between ribs or waves of ground, or through low hUls.* 17th. — To-day's march was of moderate length. Some Caffres brought us a few chickens, which, having no large porcelain beads (velorio), greatly to our sorrow, we were unable to purchase. I think to have heard that the best quality of beads comes to Mozambique, and that the Banyans, the true traders of that place, sell them to the Moors or Arabs of Zanzibar, or dispose of them by means of the Muiao-t throughout the interior. In this journey I do not remember seeing any Caffre ornaments of small beads (Missanga), between the Mocanda and our present camp : all are ma^eof the said large velorio, and few are of the so-called first quality which comes to Eios de Sena. 18th. — Our only novelty to-day was the slow and patience- ,«trying work of clearing the path in many places ; happily the bush was not strong. We crossed the little Eiver Eu- cure. 13th. — However good the water may appear, it^cannot ,]ie. healthy from where the swamps begin. It always runs through stagnant formations, and is tainted more or less by the vegeta tion that rots in it. We are often obliged to use dammed-up and standing. water. '•- - ---....-.-...-.-......-..•-- 20th. — The village of the Fumo Mouro-Atchinto J ends the district of Fumo Chipaco, which began at the Eiver Zambeze (Chambeze). Here I halted for three reasons. Firstly, to rest the party and prepare for a forced march of seven to eight days through the waste and desert country before us. Secondly, to collect supplies on this day and the 21st. Thirdly, to observe the ^immersions of Jupiter's satellites, if my illness permit, and the bush burnings which begin at 9 to 10 a.m., leave the ai^clear. Of late the atmosphere has been thick, and only aboutdawn it thins •with the fall of dew (cacimba), which is cold and heavy. This chill is followed by ah intense" heat, the 'effect of sun and grass- smoke, and at 11 a.m. it is at its height. To-day we suffered from the smoke which was all round us, and, fortunately for us, the dried herbage was not very high. We crossed a Eiver Euanzeze. 21st. — The Caffres say that on both sides of and near the high road are small villages. They also assured me that to * This exactly describes the region traversed when approaching the Tanga- nmta Lake. jr t The WahiSo of -whom I have spoken in ' Zanzibar : City, Island, and Coast ' ^gee Diary, August 15th). X Evidently the proper name of the Mfumo. The country is called " Chama," and when the next expedition went there, they found it under the Mfumo Muiza Messire-Chirumba. ¦Chap. IIL POSITION OF MOURO-ATCHINTO PIXED. 99 northward lies the Uemba nation,* between the Muizas and the Mussucuma, who reach the banks of the Chire (Shire) or Nhanja.t -Also they assure us that the Uemba and the Mussu cuma are mortal enemies to, never sparing, the Cazembe's people; but they are equally so with the Muizas, whom thej^ know by their combed heads. On the south are the Arambas and the Ambos, peaceful friends of the Cazembe, who trade, they declare, with the Caffres near Zumbo. Despite my serious weakness, I observed the immersions of Jupiter's first satellite, which gave me for the position of Mouro-Atchinto, 2 hours 36 minutes 40 seconds east of Lisbouj (or 39° 10' 0"=30° 1' 58" long. E. , Green.) The latitude was S. 10° 20' 35".t 22n(^, 23rd, 2'lth. — Many elephant-tracks in these lands ; the trees inprpapft \r\ hfilgbt aT1,d thjalrnf^gg 25th. — I halted at a village of a few huts, inhabited by some Muizas, who are obliged every three days to collect the Suraj^ wine extracted from a wild palm called Uchinda. I preferred it to that supphed by th^.Pa]m^a.,fflaa§a,_£L.CQCoa-nut-tree.§ Here I received news of the chief sergeant, Pedro Xavier Velasco, who was sent forward from the Mocanda ; possibly.^ sickness has, contrary to my instructions, detained him so long. 26ih. — This day's coimtry is hilly and stony, chiefly in the ascents and descents, but there is a kind, of plain or plateau which forms the highest levels,! and which apparently con tinues, seeing that nothing is in view but low hills. 27t}i. — Feverish and weak, I marched over the desert and ¦crossed some swamps. A Caffre guide assured me that in the * The Auembas, Muembas, or Moluanes, are mentioned by Monteiro and G£>/ mitto (p. 408, &c.) as a nomad tribe from the W.N.W. of the Cazembe's pouutry, which has seized part of the lands of the Muizas. Their chief is entitled the Chiti-Mucnlo. In the ' Mittheilungen ' we read that the Awemhe and Miluangt* Ul'y Mlitid ^r^ialf-bred Milua (the Sowahili Wariia), congeners of the Alunda, the subjects of the Muata ya Nvo. t The Nyassa Lake. 'This passage shows how well the Nyassa Lake, and its I ¦drain the Shire, were known, even in 1798. X This was the lamented traveller's last observation. According to Dr. Living stone (writing from Lake Bangweolo, July 1868), "one of them (the four brooks), the Chimgu, possesses a somewhat melancholy interest, as that on which poor Dr. Lacerda died ; .... his latitude of Cazembe's to-wn on the Chungu being _jj(| milM -wroTig. probably y.vp,a.1a \i\ut \\\si >ipq,|^ wag clQui£d.w.ith jgy.ei. when he last obserged." But at the tenth parallel of south latitude. Dr. Livingstone was ' close to Lacerda's path, and he also places the Chungu rivulet^ about south latitude 10°. The fact is, that Dr. Livingstone's map misled him.**:-' | § I have always, on tbe contrary, found the toddy supplied by the cocoa-trer' {Cocos nudfera) the best flavoured of all palm-wines. p II -AjjfllBEM)n_Jormation .iu_jthe African and Brazilian interiors is an upland jpi&teau -of -earth, hounded Tiy. descents, "from which -wind and rain have swept a-wa^y-the humus, leaving the shoulders bare and stony. These places are always lEe'-worst riding. H 2 100 JOURNAL OP DE. DE LACERDA. Chap. III!- highlands to the left hand (westward) is the Great Lake which he and his master Manoel Caetano Pereira — who, however, made it larger — ^had crossed on their last journey.* It must be a continuation of that near which I nighted, perhaps anas tomosing with the other water which we have passed, since the owners of certain miserable huts where we are now, there catch,. it is said, large fish. I wonder at the scarcity of game in this bush; whatever may be to come, I expected in this desert- march (Travessia) to see some animals at a distance.! But if we fare badly in this part, we are recompensed by the absence of the mosquitos wi^their bjxrniiig Sting g^,lh^j,nfernal song. 2^'.— At T'Y.mTTeacb^ sTymage governed by the Fuino Monro, of the same grade of yassalhood. but nearer related- (mais conjuncto) to the CazembeTA.bout half a league before our arrival a vast crowd of both sexes and all ages awaited me- with festive instruments : so anxious were they to see me that some were perched on tree-tops, and after I had passed they descended and accompanied me, singing, playing instruments, dancing, and at the same time clearing the road. Those who' were on the ground ceremoniously rubbed themselves with dust, and showed their wonder of all they saw, not oidy by the expression of their countenances, but bv .holding, tihainrefinprftr in the mouth 1 and by biting the hand^ I did not see one Muiza here. In the afternoon Mouro sent me his present of Pombe,. four large chickens, and a gazelle almost decomposed, with a message that he did not visit me in person, as he was preparing subsistence for my people. To-day's march was clear of trees ; but all suffered from want of water, which was not found till we- reached the^D9m.fl£jia.lting-place (pousada). 29th. — Ar°theFum(5'' "did' '"li'oL' ""kee'p"EiS word touching sup plies, I sent my people to buy what was offered, namely manioa flour, as good as any I have seen in Mozambique, m^let^tiUin .spike, but very black from the smoke with whichtKey'dri^e away the insects. Air the manioc meal (farinha), even in the Zimboe or Cazembe's city, is made in the same way. They soak the roots. BejKba ¦* This is evidently the Bemba or Bangweolo Lake lately visited by Dr,- Livingstone. It was foreshadswed in our map by the Shuia Lake, which I had named " Chama." — (' Memoir on the Lake Eegions of Central Africa,' ' Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society,' vol. xxix.). I must observe that there is a Lake "Suai," or "Zwai," near Gurague in Abyssinia; and so there is » Ka-- ragwah or Karagwe, north of Unyamwezi. t Tba flpBp Afrjcflji fnTB^t '"i" fiTPryw^'"''' unfit f.o pimpqrt animal life, unless it is broken by largg. clear spac.eA.where wild beaats can enjoy sun anJ'alrr" '~' I" Tiris-'is also'a popular way of expressing extremtS^aStSfilSiment amongst many Asiatic peoples. Biting the-handJa mostly a mark of regret or disap pointment. ' ' — -^ •Chap. IIL NEWS OP THE CAZEMBE. 101 peel and sun-dry them whole : they pound and grind them on a stone when wanted for use, and then they make the so-called ¦•inassa, dough, or unleavened bread. Whilst travellmg they carry the roots entire, and expend them as they are required. They also eat, but not often, the sweet manioc * roasted : I tried this plan, not liking the dough. In the afternoon a visit ^ was paid to me by tb,e^Fumo ; he exaggerated the honour by ' assuring me — so infatuated is he with his dignity — that he will ex'** plain the extreme m^Suf^tleaving"E^vffl3ge by considering us \ to be the Cazembe, the only person who can claim such devoirs, i 30th. — Leaving a road formerly well trodden and populous, I followed another shorter and clearer path which was opened, they say, when the Cazembe changed the site of his settlement .(Zimboe) for one more easily fortified. This line is at once shorter and clearer. To-day I had news of the chief sergeant Pedro Xavier Velasco reaching the Zimboe, where the Cazembe^ had immediately ordered one of his grandees to prepare sub sistence and to meet me. They say that the king expects me with transports of delightf May it be true ! But I doubt it, haying observed that..j^_Caffre's mouth never opens without a : lie i^lipping nut. It IS a people wholly regardless of duty in matters of truth. October 1st. — Approaching the halting-place I travelled be tween two high rough ridges stretching out of sight. I passed some villages lately deserted and founded on good sites, the soil being good and the forests like that of the Brazil, the trees being .tall and large. It was said that the people had fled after suffering much from lions. $ 2nd. — When beginning the march I met two brothers of the •Cazembe and a son of the Fumo Anceva, § his relation, escorting ^ goodly store of manioc, sun-dried " bush-beef," and two she- .goats for our Caffres : the soldiers had their portion of the same ^ separately.il My intention was to-day to travel as near as possible to the •Zimboe, but these messengers told me that being a Mambo, •or chief, like the Cazembe, I could not advance until their * This is the Macaxeira or Aipim (/. utilissimd) of the Brazil ; it contains no .poisonous principle, and therefore it does not require to be soaked and pressed. * t As the first European who ever visited the country. Dr. de Lacerda might! expect a most ceremonious reception. .^tm- ' X Monteiro and Gamitto also here found lions dangerous."^ ' § According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 236), ^-tifc.iJEnmO .^B'Traa. M. ili .^JJ."- I watches over and is^ answerable for .strangers at the city ol^thej gn hiin tney miiisi;' seeV feir audJMJces with 'thfej^ing:'" "TCirel Ca „ issuch an'officeFat'all'tSe AlfrcanXoSft6',''SM"a"m^E^ peSt, as a rule, he is. I 11 This exactly describes the preparatory receptioil oi^-a visitor by the Kings' M^Dahomey, Benin, and others. - 102 JOURNAL OF DR. DE LACERDA. Chap. III.. ., father, the king, had ^^^U£iliid^^J£LJmm>aJie£iSilXd.JSM^' (Mozimos) due thanks for my arriyaljfl,,,^ai^Qafttry . Also that I should a3valDce*'aTroe'°''^trer^hepla^, town, or house (Massanza *), where the Cazembe's father is buried, and there express proper gratitude for the said benefit. Withal they would not agree for me to enter the place to-day, nor could I do otherwise than conform to their wishes. They begged me to pitch the camp outside, as they had to give me the message of their king. They said that the Cazembe was so much satisfied; with my coming that ^,he..,,afifl!i.-y{|0'^Ld jlagto M body with .4is^,t--Js».^igii .^t/tia^l^^^SImr^^s]^^* "^iid" would send to fetch me. I was also directed to leave at the burial-place of the royal' ancestors a blue cotton (Ardian), 4 fathoms of cotton-cloth, and a small quantity of white and coloured stoneware beads. The I king did the same with Manoel Caetano Pereira. As far as I I can see, travellers pay up the vows and offerings with which the |king supplies the spirits for benefits received. At the samo moment the two officers sent a messenger to the king. Whilst they were preparing the hut and bed, between which I am now compelled to live, I called up these officers, but they~ would not answer a word to my questions. When, wondering at this profound silence, I was told by the interpreter that,, tbflji^bi<^tagt>.MHld,J.i«taH.nJa»^ '''s,Bg§k,JJJl>a£te^»de] "tkan. 1 ri^oTviRfO>S!aRtel^Tv cerernojual. to obtain their good will for myself, and thereby to forward the views of the Crown. "^ Wishing to give an idea of their rites, I sent Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco and Lieutenant Jose Vicente Pereira Salema with soldiers to the grave, and ordered them to fire three salutes with the usual interval, exaggerating as much as possible the obsequies ^ in token of friendship, and carefully noting everything they saw. This had an excellent effect upon the crowd, and upon the^ guardian-priest ("Muine-Ma,y am oY * who, externally, was not disfinguisneairom other Caffres. The latter, after consulting his oracle, the ghost of the Cazembe's father, exclaimed that I v who had bewailed with them the death of their king was a god^\ who had come to them ; that I should go wherever it pleased me, all the country being mine, and so forth. His good will was . confirmed by a present and by a message from me begging him to take particular care of the respectable house, where lay my friend the Cazembe's father, whose ashes I so much respected, t End of Dr. de Lacerda's Journal.X Eemaeks by the Teanslator. According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 370), the history of the Cazembe's people is wholly traditional.§ It is said that the * Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 230) were received by tho priest sitting cross- legged on a lion's skm, and all whitened with Im^jemba. And they had to pay for this Airican apparatus. ' t According to Monteiro and Gamitto, the stages from Tete to Lunda (the capital of the Cazembe) are as follows : — Days. Leagues. 1st. From Tete to the Aruangoa River 25 .. 120 J 2nd. „ Aruangoa Eiver to the Chambeze Eiver . . 22 . . 80J 3rd. „ Chambeze Eiver (a desert) to Lunda city 29 . . 90J Total 76 291i ^ X Mr Qan\pM. ' Geography of N'yassi ' (p. 34), says, " the expedition arrived at^ LucencS^ (the Cazembe's Oily) oh the'2nd of October, and Lacerda, worn out with fever, died on the 18th." For 2nd read 3rd. According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 327), the traveller was buried a day's march from the then capital,-' l^aud there is still in the place aJ\j[^uine-;^|.xn.{r),B,„pr Lord of the 'Tonib^, When tihe expedition returned, the bones of the mfortunale explorer weie, Vs -will be . seen, exhumed for the removal to Tete, but the Muizas attacked the carriers, \ and thus they were dispersed in the bush. § Mr. Cooley in 1845 (' Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society ') borrowed the history of the Cazembe from-f edrn thfT Pombpiro (' Annaes Maritimos,' No. 7, p. 296). In 1854 appeared ' O Muata (jazeimlbeTTlre work of MM. Monteiro and Gamitto ; it is a far more reliable account than the former. Mr. Cooley had 104 REMARKS BY THE TRANSLATOR^ Chap. III. " great potentate Muropue, or Mwata y^ Nvo," hearing of white men living towards the east, sent a Quilolo. or captain. named Canhembo,* to open intercourse "with them. Under this captain's charge was placed one of the potentate's sons^for ^whODj cruelty and insubordination rehdCTeC exile "jadSsaSe. The Quilolo, with ah"afmy*dfAlondas (speaking the Campocolo language), subdued the Wasira (Messira),t lords of the soil. At last, discovering a plot laid against him by the turbulent prince, he resolved to return with him to the Muropue and"^ to report his success. This he did ; but when again sent east ward with " Ghambancua." the big rjmryi pf tArribl^-j^ntAg this Captain, Canhgmbo, wasjreacherously drowned, in Jih.& Lualao Eiver by the prince, who was, in Tiis "fiini, put to death by his father. , Jf ~^" — '¦ ¦¦" —The Muropue then sent his FumqAnceva, Canhembo, the son of the murdered man, who, when thel'^Stta (Messira) rebelled, finally defeated them. In memory of their founder all the .other kings took the name of Canhembo. At first they were mere vassals of the Mwata ya NvoJ' presently they sought inde- •¦^endence, and established a royal court. Canhembo IV., sur- named Lequeza, J was the next ; and he received Dr. de Lacerda. Of;.hi|,jalfiMEk»kJ!^Sity.._an^^ .£i.rg^still current. He was succeeded earlyin the present century by (Janneiibo V., who is described by the second Portuguese expe- sdition as a barbarian and a coward ; in fact, a facsimile of the first Canhembo's assassin. ^ In these Diaries -we find neither the name p.f Jm city. aOj.'.,the ruler. This is Truly African, arising from the superstitious iiear "of either being ^nown. The expedition seems to have left the country persuaded that the name of the old capital was "Chungo," or Chungu ('Diary,' July 24, 1799). According to Mr. Cooley, it is 10 miles south of the modem capital, and 20 miles north of the Eiver Luo. Ladislaus Magyar declares that the true name of the Cazembe's capital is Tamba-la-meba, but I do not know how he heard it. The Arabs" of Zanzibar spoke to me of it as "Usenda," possibly a corruption of Lucenda, Luenda, Lunda, or Londa. It is now assumed, I do not know why, that Lucenda is a pure error for Lunda.§ unfortunately pubhshed his ' Inner Africa Laid Open ' in 1852, and, therefore, we detect in it all his old errors. ¦* This may explain the Kmg " Kiyombo of Uruwwa," whom the Kazeh Arabs spoke of (' Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society,' vol. xxix. p. 255). t The ' Vacira' of the Chaplain (Feb. 18-21), and of ' Inner Africa Laid Open,' X Pedro the Pombetro called him Hunga Amuronga, but this is probably some title. § 'Bulletin,' Series V., torn. iii. p. 857. 'Chap. IIL DR. DE LACERDA'S DIARY. DiAET OF Dr. de Lacbbda's Jouenbt. 105 station. -^ Date. Remarks. 1 July 3, 1798 From Nhaufa Fatiola Estate, north of Zambeze River, to Mitondo; short day's march. — N.B. The average is stated to he 2| Portuguese leagues, per diem. 2 )' i, j» To Inhacengeira (Nhassengeira ?) the last of the Crown properties, distant one league from Mi tondo : here the land of the Maraves begins. 3 )? 6, " To a nameless plain or prairie in the Marave country ; short march. 4 )J 7. 1, To a similar halting-place ; short day. 5 J) 8, J, To the Mashinga estate, a gold-digging ; march ending 2 ¦ 30 p.m. 6 )) 14, ,, To a Marave village. 7 1» 15, »j To a large village not named; march of two leagues. 8 " 16, ,» To near the Lupata (or gorge), the end of " King " Bive's land ; short march. 9 » 18, J5 Marched with the Cordilheira Marisana to the east, and on the west the Cordilheira Joanina ; short stage. 10 » 19, 1J Entered the Cordilheira Marisana ; halted at the Caruzissira stream ; short march. *H ,7 21, )) To the Lupata Jaua, full march. 12 » 22, )3 Twice crossed (crossed two branches of?) the Aruangoa. 13 » 26, )j Crossed the eastern ridge and halted at the streamlet Chigumunquire ; short march. 14 J7 27, >7 To a Marave -village : marched from 8 a.m. till 15 31, noon. To place not named. .116 August 7, JJ Crossed the Euy and Bua Rivers ; halted on the banks of the Uzereze Eiver in the country of the King Mukando. 17 » 8, » March with more of westing. 18\ 19/ 20 ij 9-10, 91 To the Chitenga village. „ 11, J, Very short march. 21 )» 12, J) Passed gold-iield and saltpetre ; also short march. 22 j» 13, » To the village of the Chief Caperemera at 10-30 23 » 17, ,, A.M. A short march. 24 )) 18, » Over the Cordilheira Carlotina; the first long march. To the Ircusuze Eiver ; forced march. 25 J, 19, ,, 26 5» 20, » To the village of Mazavamba — the wildest and roughest of all the marches. -27 ,, 23, ,, To a village near the Eio Eemimba. 28 ), 24, » To the village of Capangura. .29 t? 25, IJ To the (northern) Aruangoa Eiver ; march of two hours. To a lagoon ; long march. 30 ?7 26, J» * Bowdich (p. 58) makes Java 5 days' journey from Tete. t Bowdich (Zoe. cit.') makes " Booa " three marches from Java. 106 DR. DE LACERDA'S DIART. Chap. III. Diary of Dr. de Laoerba's Jottenet — continued. Station. Kemarks. 31 32333435 August V Septembei 27, 1798 29, „ 30, „ 31, „ 1, „ 36 », % „ 37 » 5, „ 38 ?) 6, „ 39 jt 7. „ 404142 43 444546474849 50 51525354 5556 575859 *60 October 10,11, 12, 13,Ii 16,17, 18, 19, 20, 22,23,24, J) 25, 26, J) 27, )) 28, )» 30, )» 1, )» 2, „ fumo Chipako. and Mokanda To near the viUage of Kapera Mpande. A short march to water. To the Serra Mushinga. In a spacious fertile valley. Over high and rooky ground ; settlements small, and starving, under the Mambo Mucungure. A long march ; crossing a desert and a marsh ; much westing. Crossed the Serra Eodrigo in Ih. 45m. ; another marsh ; much westing. Bush very thick, had to be cut nwny • hgnt p-n/l r'ls61dIgSBesBi.\Ea,iJtot!h~westtlB5g';"" March like the three last, 'first over a ridge, then open country, then another ridge; halted at large stream near settlement ; land waxes richer. A long march to the village of Morungabambara, near the Chambeze Eiver. After Ih. 20m. to the Chambeze Eiver. The ridges and hills extending from Tete to the Chambeze are not found on this march. Plain country ; then usual style, large lagoon on right ; to the village of Mfumo Chinimba Campeze. Took. j)nferhgHirJ;Q.,w^de worst sw^ Short march totiie large'village ot I A gentle descent to the Eicena streams ; after that an ascent. A moderate march. Had to cut a path through the shrubbery ; crossed tbe streamlet Eukure. The water bad. Crossed a Euanzeze Eiver ; reached the village of Mfumo Monro Achinto, where last observa tion was made; n. lat. 10° 20' 35" Time, 2h. 36 m. 40 sec. east of Lisbon. Many elephant-tracks ; forest of tall trees. To a small village ; some of the people Muizas. To a plateau. Land still desert; a great lake in the highlands to the west (Bemba or Bangweolo). To the village of a Mfumo Monro; no water on road, which was clear of forest. A shorter and clearer road, lately opened to the Cazembe's new city. Between two high rough ridges; people driven from villages by lions. A short march towards the Massanza, or burial- place of the defunct Cazembe. Death of Dr. de Lacerda, near the capital of the Cazembe, on October 18, 1798. * Bowdich reduces the journey (Pereira being his authority) to 42 days from Muenepanda to Tete. The Diary (July 13, 1799) makes the march from the city to Tet^ 270 leagues. ( 107 ) CHAPTER IV. DiAEY OF THE EXPEDITION SENT BY HeE MoST FaITHPUL MajESTT TO exploee the African Inteeioe, and to the Cotjet of the Cazembe, distant 270 Leagues feom Tete, kept by the Chap lain AND COMMANDBE Fe. FeANOISCO JoaO PiNTO, IN CONTINUATION OF THE DiAEY OF De. FeANCISCO JoSE DE LaoEEDA E AlMEIDA, TO BE presented to the Most Illtjsteioits and Excellent Senhor - Francisco Guides de Carvalho e Menezes da Costa, Goveenoe AND CaPTAIN-GbNEEAL OP MOZAMBIQUE AND THE CoAST OF BaST Africa.* Section I. — From date of Arrival at the City till December 31, 1798. November 6, 1798. — At 2 p.m., as the Second Division was on the liae of march, arrived two soldiers, with official letters for the commandant of the first division, Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Yieira de Araujo, stating that His Excellency the Governor of the Rios de Sena, Dr. Francisco Jose Maria de Lacerda e Almeida, had expired at the court (capital) of the King Cazembe, on October 18, 1798, and had appointed me to the charge of the expedition, with instructions to carry out all that he had begun by order of the Crown. At 4 o'clock p.m., the principal individuals and members of the second division being present at the halting-place (Daro), I directed the lieutenant of that division, Antonio Jose da Cruz, to read out my nomi nation as commandant ; and by virtue of it I installed myself in lieu of Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos e Silva, who, from October 22nd, had commanded the second division, succeeding, by wish of the deceased governor, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and Jose Eodriguez Caleja. At 8 P.M. came to my straw hut (mogaSga,) the above- mentioned Lieutenant Manoel, to inform me that his late col leagues, together with Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, desired to deprive me of the commandantship, although it had been. * This title will show the varied errors of Mr. Cooley (' Geography of N'yassi,' p. 40), that on the unfortunate Governor's death, " his followers, panic-struck,_fled precipitately, and the whole property, including a good sum in gold, remained in the Cazembe's hands." In another place lie asserts that Dr. de Lacerda " died immediately on his arrival, and never entered the place," — what manner of " bull " is this ? While in a third place we are told (' Geography of N'yassi,' p. 36),. that the Cazembe refused Lacerda permission to proceed westward. 108 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV transferred to me in the name of the Crown; and to take il themselves — the captain as senior commissioned officer, anc 'the other as being experienced in the country. I recommended Lieutenant Manoel to allay, as well as he could, the rising mutiny, and to inform the mutineers that, iJ necessary to prevent disturbances, I would resign the command, baltha4 the-y -m.^iisLjmdfir8tMid Jhs^. .case ia^ be _thfi,...same. as .the ..rebellion at Cape Corrientes.* These aiid "oEEer "reasons, principally their incapacity tc undertake- so important a business, and to report of it to Lisbor and to Angola when the opening of the road shall have beer effected, persuaded them to desist from their project. 7th. — The second division set out for a more populous country to collect supplies which were much wanted. From this place, within two days' journey of the Cazembe's city, I sent a bearei with a iLffi2ilt^'"t of^20p cloths (each 2 fathoms) and 20{: strings of beads (mutaia |), to report our arrival, and to obtain the king's4)enepla(!'gF'ft>i' our entrance. SlJi'lo IVth. — The permissioET^Trived, but the hour being late, it was resolved to wait till the next day. 11th. — At 8 A.M. the second division marched in the usual order to enter the city. After thirty minutes on the road we met the Fumo Anceva, secretary, treasurer, and " lajr^dlord "S oJ foreigners, who, being considered merchants, give him his name — Nanceva, being corrupted to Anceva. He was seated, a little off the road, iujiis_chaii-, which resembled_a_£lain taboreti and dressed in his mucanzo (muconzo')rtlieTSnest cloth amongst them. We at once sent, to compliment him, and he told us that we might advanca^We proceeded, and he followed us on foot, making use of Caffres when he had to be carried over mud and streams. When we reached the place where the MliattBgas«.of jojii party — they so call white men and all who are not Caffres — were halted, the "Fumo Anceva appeared "in his great houses, which the commandant of the first division had hired for me for a piece of Indian cotton, until others could be built. There he complimented me on the part of his master, and delivered to me a present of twcisories and two Caporretes, or Caffre lads, * There is no other allusion to this mutiny. t This has been explained before. The usual opening present to the King ol BahoEoe is , rum. ¦ — """-"—¦ ' ....^ X This word will be found afterwards, wi-itten " Mutava." § Meaning Mehmandar. or JMst of sjmoger, visitors. So at Dahome there ia jan English landlord, a-i^rench landlord, and soTorffi, and all strangers aje offi cially looked upon as buyers and sellers, who must pay for the privilege's ¦buying and sellmg. - • • ¦ ~ - --•-'-.— -^ ""'^ Chap. IV. AT THE COURT OF THE CAZEMBE. 109 16 years old. This offering ia,.called " mouth " (bqcaj, because^ all Caffres, except lamihar friends -who often see one anotEer, never receive nor send messages, nor even speak, without agift. The gifts were committed to the lieutenant-receiver, TStanoel dos Santos e Silva, who carried them to the account of the Royal treasury. In the afternoon, by the advice of the more experienced who had preceded me, I forwarded unasked a "mouth" of 36 cloths, informing the king that we had arrived at his court. 12th. — The Cazembe sent a big sow for the Muzungos (white- ¦men) to seej_ saying that she came from Angola, by which ^Sey understand their trading-places near our establishment. When we asked if she had ever farrowed, they replied " no," and that ' the hog had died at once. The Cazembe presented his new guests with a skinned ¦^and divided raca,ja*, and he recognized me as commandant, | which was necessary before I could be so considered in his country. y^ 13th. — The Cazembe having sent fois/our inspection various lots of woollen cloths, sudfTas calamanhas,tlastings (durantes), > fine serges (sarafinas),'^haloons (saetas), opaque stone-ware beads (pedras de cor), and coloured ditto (pintadas), inquired if such articles were found in our country. He also made us a present of some blue drinking-glasses. Notwithstanding all this kindness, all those who from 3 p.m. came to our camp with wood, flour, legumes, and comestibles for sale, were seized and'* maltreated by the Fumo Anceva, and from that time natives were prohibited from selling anything to the strangers, t nth. — With the aid of the first guide of the bush (pratico- dos mattos), Gonqalo Caetano Pereira, i began to prepare on the part of the Crown a present (mirambo) for the Cazembe, and persuaded by him that such an offering should be quite satis factory, I in-vited the Fumo Anceva to be present. Our landlord did not fail us. Dr. de Lacerda had told him that the Second Division would bring up fine things, which the King of Manga § — so they call all the lands of the Muzungos — was sending to the Cazembe. The Fumo therefore pretended discontent with everything, and declared that the whole, being sent by the * I cannot explain the meaning of " Eaoaja, esfolada e partida." t Calamanhas, also spelt Callomanhas. t This is a general proceeding in Central Africa, where the King wishes to be- thn nnly rnnt/iintrr § In this part of Africa " Manga " means theregip^of Whites. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 185) translate if'TjSno de PortugaC""ln^2ranziKr ' (vol. i. p. 20) I have explained it to mean literally rock, rocky ground— hence the Arabs are- locally called Wamanga. 110 FR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL. Chap. IV. •Crown of Portugal as a present, belonged to his master the Oazembe.* It was therefore necessary to haggle about the quality of each item composing the Mirambo ; as for the quantity, he wanted everything, even our private luggage. 15ih to 17th. — The Cazembe, impatient at the delay of his present, and loth to_bsl|S2£UJiat-..,impertinences of his officer were.the cause, of ^obstruction, ordered the latter to give metwo tusks, by way of " mouth," begging me not to make him wait "any longer. The Fumo, however, kept the tusks and forgot the message ; and until the battle of the gift was decided, we had tcl suffer not a little f-^tCLtibfli^rqppjii^^ss and |ij||it^i|,j{,pf fhe_ Mini-i jter. On the same day, accompanied "IBysome who better knew the country custom, I gave the Secretary his private present o^ 36 plain cloths (pannos de fato), 1 fine coloured cloth (getim), 4 little ingots (pendes) of calaim (East India tin, mentioned by Do Couto and others), 200 strings of glass beads assorted, 5 cloths, 20 strings of white opaque beads, also assorted, and 4 "porcelanas" of small cowries. Although he had been promised a gift after my presentation at Court, he feared the contrary, and now he was out of his misery : his return gift was4 an ivory. But though afterwards he became more placable, he did not cease persisting in attempts to swell the present of his king by asking for everything he saw. 18th to 2Qth. — The Fumo Anceva broke his promise about bearing away the " dash " made to his king. 21s^. — With much trouble the Fumo was persuaded to carry off our offering to the Cazembe, who was satisfied with it. The conciseness of a Diary prevents my enumerating the multitude of things of which it consisted, and, moreover, .all appear in the Receiver's account. It was to be supposed -that the Cazembe, according to country custom, having received such a gift, would acknowledge the receipt bv a ^|;^| mouth/', or counter g;ift of ivorv jagddaves — he did not return even a message. To tke Mu^e-' mpanda, commander-in-chief and especial favourite of the Ca zembe, I gave 36 plain cloths (de fato), 1 looking-glass, 1 piece of fine " getim," f 4 zinc bars, 200 strings of beads, 5 pannos de velorio, also assorted, 10 douros sortidos, 4 n^fcelanas of cowries. He was pleased with his gift, and returnoB a copper bar and a * The same was done to the second expedition. At Dahome it is a legal fiction I that everything belonging to strangers is the property of the King as long as it is in his city. Also there is a considerable tendency to look upon all foreigners as slaves. t In Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 453) "gdtim" is explained as "pintada de c6res,mas depreciada por md.' Pannos of velorio are the equivalents in beads to fine cloths. Douros may be an error for Dordra. explained by the same explorers (p. 189) to be synonymous with Canutilho. Chap. IV. DISSATISFACTION OP THE CAZEMBE. Ill small ivory (dente de marfim miudo),* a name given to all between 7| to 14 lbs. 22nd to 23rd. — A similar present was made to the King's nephew, the Sana Muronue.t who, more generous than the Muenempanda, returned an ivory weighing upwards of 64 lbs. 24iA. — My position compels me to make the greater presents, because the Cazembe's friendship is in every sense necessary to< me. The haste with which I left Quilimani to join, as chaplain, the expedition at Tete, having allowed me no time for prepara tions, I indented upon Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos e Silva, the Receiver of the Crown property, for some articles to be repaid in money, after our return. For tViis both he and I were severely censured and criticised by Jose Rodrigues Caleja and ' his acolytes. 25th. — The first guide (pratico dos mattos), Gonoalo Caetano Pereira, with the Receiver, Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos e Silva, the notary Antonio Jose da Cruz, and Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, came to inform me that the Cazembe was so dissatisfied with his presents that the Royal stores and the Receiver's office were in danger of being plundered. I at onc^ gave orders secretly to make up 400 ball-cartridges, in case ot need.J By the Receiver's advice, I resolved to advance pay to, all on the list, that, should the report prove true, the Crown stores might not suffer so much : all the soldiers were allowad* to draw three months' advance pay ; the officers had already received more. On this occasion I drew my salary a.s cbaTjUjy,^^ :£3Ji..Bix.mnrif,h.c;^ no other falling dug, and a pfepaymeht of ten, amounting to 39^ plain cloths (pannos de fato) = 197*500 dels. of this country, or 98.750 of Portugal. A great Chiraro (officer) complained before the Cazembe that the Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira had dishonoured him through his wife, and demanded satisfaction : the King, in^ reply, bade him chastise the woman for troubling the whites, and thus the injured husband lost his damages.§ The reason of the Cazembe's reply was that before the arrival of the expedition, which was known to march without women, he had recommended his officers to look after their wives, and had told them that if any went astray, either with a white or with the Caffre of a' white, there would be no " palaver." * The Portuguese divide their ivory into two kinds, grosso, meao_ (middle), miudo, and sera, the latter being " ScrweUoSj" from 1 lb. to 2 lbs. in weight. t He is one pf the great officers atlKeCourt. •--. - ^-. - X In these cases it is generally the civilian— say missionary, doctor, or ¦chaplain — who first shows fight. § These palavers (Milandos) are of almost daily occurrence in the countries of f the Cazembe and of the Mwata yi Nvo. And t'-- ," piiiTT^ inrlm " \V\ peif^ctlv well known in Eastern and Western Africa, especially at Abeokuta. 112 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OP THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV 28th. — To-day the Cazembe gave his first official reception to the whites of the Second Division. He was sitting on his Hytanda,* a low, .plain, country-fashioned_te^Sai^, lined with red cotton (Xaile), a stuff 'brdught'ffomlthe north. The recep tion place was the principal entrance of his palace, under two< .krge..andJQttgMydaadfi>Jtmbj£d3Mj0^aai£i3^^ the common Balagate. The open space, which is large, was filled with an immense crowd, and in front of the people were seated his- grandees, his son, and his brother — all upon the bare ground. Those whom the king addressed or looked at, acknowledged iU by clapping their hands, with cries and shouts of joy, whim others accompanied with ftlinrt bm-ata nf tVio TYim.i»«l.a -j- ^j^^ other instruments. Those not so honoured remained silent. Thfe.jfrandees. m9reovex. r.iihbad-.ea£ih.ja[pQn-..thfiir-jajms,...aad \sts, in token of hum^^^aJSd jasgalagie. When we arrived, the t'ing'was"§iffiffg,"'lisTEiaTCdescribed, outside his palace, -with a little brazier before him, surrounded by various horns contain ing charms against witchcraft. For us a certain post had been appointed, thirty paces from the presence ; there we were con ducted by our guide, the Fumo Anceva, and we were soon surrounded by a mighty crowd of gazers. The Fumo then retired and knelt down four paces behind his master, to receive orders. At once, out came Catara, the Micrunda Caffre who had met us at Tete, and began to 'lEemberar," that is to say, to dance, in token of joy, as is the cus?om7pausing in his steps when near the king, who was some eight steps distant. With his knife he pointed to the directions where Angola and Tete are supposed to be, signifying that the Cazembe was very happy in being -visited by whites from both countries. Our soldiers who were of the party went through some evolutions, and fired, to the great pleasure of the king. I satfi; to compliment him, but the Caffre interpreters of GonpaloiOaetano Pereira, when giving- my message, presented as a "Vnouth" seventy cloths and a mutava (200 strings) of velorio beads. The Cazembe only replied that it was well, and with signs of satisfaction ordered the offering to be taken up. He returned three tusks, each weighing more than 32 lbs, and two slaves, after which he soon. disappeared. Thus ended our first audience, if it can be so called. Before the * In the Sawihil country the Kitanda is a cot, a " lit de sangle." V. t Tuoorim, in Monteiro and Gamitto (Appendix B), is a stuff likeEotiam,but much inferior, 8tn£e4_5jjhiti3h and white. i^' ' ^¦>"t-^PhB-Marlnr6a is a well-known negro instrument, a rude piano, Dr. Liyingaf one has given a sketch of one (' First Expedition,' p. 293). Chap. IV. DISPUTES AS TO SENIORITY. 113 soldiers had set out for this ceremony there had been some dis pute touching command between Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira and the Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos. The latter pleaded seniority, and as he resolved to precede the former, whose nomination as Captain had not been confirmed by His Excel lency the Captain-General of Mozambique, and whose commission had not arrived, the dispute rose to such a height that the two officers abused each other violently in presence of the troops^ waiting to march. The Lieutenant went so far as to call the Captain 'Lqullion," and the latter showed so little proper spirit that he at once put up with the disgrace, and next day he became a friend of his insulter. Such was the character of most of the members of the expedition. November 29th to December 2nd. — Since our arrival here Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos suspended the issue of velorio beads, with which, from the beginning of the journey, the people bought their provisions : at their request, I ordered the said beads to be issued. 3rd. — The Receiver, who had been directed on the march by the late Governor to have his accounts drawn out and ready to be presented on our arrival at the Court, forgot all about it, judging that his superior having died, nothing would be re quired. When I called for the balance, after time enough h^ gave me a list of the remaining effects in the Royal treasijry. But having heard of certain laches, I directed him in eight days to produce his detailed accounts, as the list of existing! articles did not content me.* 4f^. — I was informed that Gonpalo Caetano Pereira had, by means of his Caffres, reported to the Fumo Anceva, intending the Cazembe to hear of it, that I had appropriated the presents^ sent to the king. He thus alluded to my having transferred to the public account the king's gift on the 11th ultimo, which was in return for the present of the 7th November, and the three tusks and two slaves sent to myself on the 28th ultimo in return for my private gift of the same date. Having ascertained that this bad man had been guilty of such an un,^ worthy proceeding, in order to stop his calumnies, I sent the private presents alluded to, that of the Fumo Anceva (17th , ultimo), that of the Muenempanda (21st), and that of the Sana Muropue (22nd), to the Receiver, with orders to place them in the Royal treasury, and I took from him an equivalent of the effects which I had expended. 5th. — The Cazembe summoned the Expedition, and the iispul^, V * Here begin the ignoble mouey-dispul^, which are enough to ruin any expedition. 114 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV. soldiers to assist at a triumphal entry which he was giving to one of his Caj]flt!g.m:s .who-.w^s.j:e|^.j:ftijigL£Koai..J«8a*.* Sickness prevented my obeying the summons. The king appeared seated under his principal gateway, as when he gave us audience. All being assembled, the chief in whose honour the fete was given appeared with a few heads of those whom he had killed in battle and some captives. When the latter had been paraded, he .began the usual dance of gladness, and as he approached the king's feet the monarch, in token of having been well served, lowered the knife which he was holdipg. As the chief con- tinuB3~l'o dance, he was interrupted by a sign made by the Cazembe to our soldiers, "vghose firing at the end of the cere- mony caused him the liveliest pleasure. """^wTto 8i{/i."— A viol(3nt' quarrel arose in our camp (mussassa) between the slaves of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and those of the chief sergeant, Pedro Xavier Velasco : the former would insist on following up the latter, who, persuaded by their masters, were retiring. I ordered Captain Joao de Cunha Pereira to end the tumult hy sending the negroes to their quarters (in- tembas),t and, when nothing was done, I gave directions to fire , with ball, sothat a death or two might terminate the fray. There were no Duue^ out some small shot, willi wmch the soldiers fired a few times, and some of them retired wounded with arrows. At that moment apppajred a Xil'aro X Caffre of the Cazembe, who, being very drmiK and niixed up with the Caffres of Gon palo Caetano Pejieira, received one or two grains in his ribs, and fell appar^tly dead by reason of his intoxication. Upon I this the original quarrel ended, and a second trouble began. The negroes, p^ents and acquaintances of the fallen man, raised him in their a,mis, and, weeping, brought him to me, s^ng that we had killed him. The Caffre vassals of the Ca^ifbe, our fellow- travellers to this place, who had received at Tete the greatest l^civility^ were the loudest in their threats. But they were Muiza's, who for that supposed death promised us real destruc tion in order to get our heads. Things looking ill, I sent the chi^f sergeant, Pedro Xavier Velasco, who then was most in favour, to take or to forward an account of the accident. The king heard it all calmly, saying that he would pronounce judg ment on the next day, before all the whites, who were directed to! be present. § * The second expedition was treated to a similar spectacle, and I witnessed it at Dahome. It is probably a part of the official programme. f In Unyamwezi, " tembe " is a large house. i 'Shiraro, an officer. § There is sure to be some dispute of this kiud : the same happened to me in ^Chap. IV. VISIT TO THE CAZEMBE'S PALACE. 115 9th. — All the whites who were able — I was still sick — went to the court. The Cazembe, after hearing the case and approv ing of Pedro Xavier Velasco's conduct, said that the strangers were in his country, and must live in peace, leaving their" quarrels to be fought out when they return home : moreover, that, if they turned a deaf ear to this salutary advice, he would act otherwise another time. Gonpalo Caetano Pereira had the indiscretion to say that on his side the dispute had not ended, but the Cazembe, pretending not to hear him, dismissed the assembly, telling the Caffres who had threatened us that they were running the risk of a miserable death. On the same day and occasion Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, Jose Rodrigues Caleja, and Antonio Jose da Cruz spoke privily to the Cazembe about opening the Angola road, though, knowing their imprudence and their wish to do everything in a hurry,'*' I had long before forbidden the subject. It was clear to me that they found the Cazembe irresolute. At first he gave leave; then, warned by the Fumo Anceva, he withdrew his^ words, under pr^EexTOTTEe'difficuKies of the road ; so that he meither granted nor -promised anything. I arrested Vasco •Joaquim Pires, ensign of militia, for his intrigues on the occa sion of yesterday's quarrel ; but he so managed that the Fumo Anceva hastened to beg his release in the name of the Cazembe^^ whom they thus drew into all our affairs. I at once ordejfSu him to be set at liberty. 10th to 19th. — The Receiver of the Royal Treasures, Manoel dos Santos, handed me in a_badlY drawn up account. ^ 20th and 21st. — After examining the account, 1 transferred the Receivership from Manoel dos Santos to Jose Rodrigues Caleja, •who was ordered to take charge of the effects belonging to the Royal Treasury. The Fumo Anceva failed not quickly to come and tell me that his master the Cazembe wished Manoel dos ' Santos to remain in office; and when I would not consent, seeing that the Royal Treasury had suffered enough, he replied^ if the lieutenant stole it was no matter, he would be answer able for the theft. Suspecting the message to be fictitious, I promised to go at once with my reply to the Cazembe : it was too late, however, to see the king, and the business remained for the next day. 22nd. — According to promise, I went to the palace accom panied by Lieut. -Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Ararijo ; the ¦chief sergeant Pedro Xavier Velasco; the guide, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, and the Serjeant of ordnance, Jose Rodrigues Dahome, and the people attempted to make a " palaver " because I stopped it -with a stick. I 2 116 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OP THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV. Caleja. We were at once admitted into a circular house, a form affected by all the Caffres of the interior ; here the Cazembe was seated, with many courtiers outside. All was disposed that we might be alone ; nevertheless, his brother, the Sana Muropue, his son, Muenebuto,* and some imprudent domestics remained to gratify their curiosity. >^ All this ceremony was b|^«*use the king had heard that we had brought a camp-bedstead of Macao-work, and he wanted to see it set up. Whilst we were satisfying him, he never ceased eyeing the curtains, which were of very light and trans parent silk. When the bed was ready, the Cazembe wished to dismiss us. I told him that a representation had to be made, and that I ought not to leave his presence without making it. As he bade me speak, I began by telling him that I came to answer the 1 " palaver " (milando) of the day before. Then the Fumo Anceva, who was near, took up the thread of my discourse, and Inade known to the king what he had delivered to me yesterday as a message in the Royal name. I took the opportunity of showing the enormity of the offence, and the unworthiness of the offender to be protected by his master, adding, that till now the Cazembe had not known what had happened, and that the message in his name was the result of an understanding between the Receiver and his minister : thus the latter exposed of my Sovereign, and that I might punish the criminal and - secure the Royal Treasury as I best pleased. 23rd to 27th. — Since the guide Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and Jose Rodrigues da Cunha had treated directly with the Cazembe about the transit to Angola, all my endeavours through the Sana Muropue did not progress; I therefore begged the Cazembe to give me an audience on the next day — a request at once granted. | 28th. — I went, accompanied by the two guides, to the Cazembe, and seeing him surrounded by his court, I attempted to speak with him alone, but found it impossible. This was an occasion not to be lost : tha^jaambers pf the .Expedition ¦were criticising jiv, ina.ctiony as if a superior jrerebpund_tosatisfyT^!li'e * The heir-apparent of the Cazembe takes the title of " M««Mbuto " for "Mueneputo: " in the original misspelt " Muembute." ' t This is the usual African trick : tlie, king and the rninister play into each otl'ejs_hand3— the latter does the dirty wBWr-aHff' thrlo^^r^MTSTTErBWlst hqm.aretoo-cuuning for tli.g. white man. ' "--^^*-~«»— ~ ,. ^_ ,_ , / X It is very clear that the Cazembe never intended to allow transit to Ano-ola • Buch a^ermission would have been quite contrary to all African policy. ¦ €hap. IV. ILLNESS OF THE CAZEMBE. 117 of those under him. I therefore opened the subject of the Angola journey, when the king at once objected wars, famine, and the death of Governor de Lacerda : he did not wish all the whites to perish on the road to Angola, and to be accused of not having warned them of their danger, and of having permitted them to incur it. Finally, he declared that we had better return and report his views to our Sovereign, and that if, despite these difficulties, we were sent another time, he would " give pass." * I insisted that there was neither famine nor war, and the carriers of the Muropue, lately arrived, had brought no such intelligence; that our deaths would not lie at his door,, even as we blame no one for the Governor's decease, rrrlJ knoTriuBT thnt ^11 must die, without the intervf Ti|,ion of anything extra- -JQr.dluaifty^TrrT'^^'' ' 'yj l said that, m our desire to open toe road, two whites would remain after the departure of the Expedition, ¦with the view of passing to Angola when the carriers sent to Ascertain about the way might return. 2'i}th to 31st. — The Cazembe began to feel sick, with acute pains> in the head, which presently extended over the body. Section 2. — Continuation of the Diary from the beginning of the Tear 1799, to February 17, 1799. January 1st to 3rd, 1799. — Jos^ Rodrigues Caleja presented to me a general requisition, begging that the comestibles might be divided amongst the members of the Expedition ; and that, pro visions being damageable goods, each one wished to take care of his own portion. I ordered this to be done. 4^th and 5th. — The Cazembe's sickness so increased that Jiis recovery was doubted, and knowing his dangerous state, he je.peatedly recommended, should he die, his son, his brotner. .. and his cnieTsrin~no*wav to moTes"^^ whites (Muzungus). wJfF being traders are privileged, people.! His physicians were un wearied in sacrificing as many human victims as possible to their fancies or barbarous politics. They went forth at morning, ;at noon, and at 10 p.m., beating their tambourines on the road, , ^nd all tho^e at whom they pointed were seized as wizards and unsparingly kain.§ Witti the king's malady our 'tears in'^as^; \\ * Auntber vgry transparent " dodge." apparent to every experienced African. II Gelele, Ki:ig of uahome, acted precisely in the same way when I wished to cross |IlIi3 uuuhBiu tiuuiiijr."^ /^ {Had the Cazemoe died, pro'B'ably ' the' wEoTe exped molested. J § ComparewiththisDr.Livingstone'sstatement('SecondExpedition,'chap. xxv.) : '• In one remote and small corner of the country, called Dahomey, the African 118 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV.. we knew that in case of his death, despite his good word, we "could not avoid the robbery general throughout the kingdom — jit being, a Caffre practice to celebrate the deaths of great men Ibyjtheft^and the'higEer is the deceaseds ranl/tEegf eater is fme disorder. I therefore ordered a sufficiency of ball-cartridges to be prepared.* 6th to «/?>. — EnT iha piirpn.gA nf promoting good fellowship, Ihadj 'ki^pt np a gpnemLmess ; atlhg. end of a month no One attended./ My party at once demandedclotK"to"buy tatibns. 1 referred to the Receiver, who being the author of the requisition, at once replied' that it was only reasonable. Thereupon I sent to- settle the quantity required for each person. 9;^._This point determined, I ordered the Receiver to supply each person with ten cloths per mensem. 10th to 13th. — The Cazembe had thrown off his malady, but, had not appeared in public. Caetano Fabiao, chief of squadron, when ordered to proceed with despatches for the Government of Tete, went to take leave of the king in hope of a present. The Cazembe, after ascertaining that the object of his journey was to report the Governor's death, gpye )im a.njyory weighing ^jitore than 80 lbs. He added, that, being ignorant of writing, this wasTnsTelter reporting to the actual Governor the unhappy news of the death of the Geral (General) t — so governors are called by Caffres. The tusk was taken by the Receiver, Jose- Rodrigues Caleja. Mth to 18th. — The Sana Muropue, the king's brother (nephew?) came to my quarters as invited, to discuss a project of free-trade. After showing him all its benefits to the king and the country, I begged his interest with the Cazembe, before whom the affair must come at last. He promised me his assistance. , 19th and 20th. — Amongst the dried fish brought by the Caffres fcr sale, appeared ,gar6|3as.t b^gre, and jEQckJsiM'-ll peculiar to salt water. After inquiry, i found that at the place where the religion has degenerated into a bloody superstition." Has the writer never heard of Asiante and of Benin, of Uganda or of Unyoro ? Again we read, " this reckless disregard of human life mentioned by Speke and Grant is quite exceptional." Exceptional ! If Dr. Livingstoue had taken the trouble to read my book on the ' Lake Eegions,' he would have found how exceptional is the " mildness " of the African religion. * This ^amnjlg(,,,^idhimultaftCT The sav£^e""Solqn3' "'Eayfe~TiiTOR]Ied"Ttin order to aqcelgra^e' "ffie~choioe"or"a successor, and to read "a practical lesson touching the beneBtroJTKTwWforms of Fyrariny, despdfisih, and democracy. - ...-™~. ™.-~™..,._ ... 'T'The- nen expedition, iff 1831-32, found Dr. de Lacerda/emembered as tho " Geral." y/ I The Garoupa of ]\Iff|rlw>lff,ia|,|;^ '^"U flpi, '^^^^^i^^v^"'^ The "..Bagw" in the dictionaries ib""J long ash witha^i-ITedTaill and^ock fish is too vague to- ascertain species. y^ Chap. IV. CONVALESCENCE OP THE CAZEMBE. 119 Xibuiri (Shibuiri) or son-in-law of the Cazembe lived, and where he had fled after killing four Caffre head-traders sent by the Angola merchants, there is n. sa.lt-iyater i^jver^ f^ftllp'd, T^hariza.-Mpotfl *' which ebbs and flows. The distance from the Cazembe's court to the Chumbo is, according to the Caffres, one month's travel, which we may reckon to be 15 days, as they walk only three hours per diem. Thence to the Muropue are eight short or four long stages, and the same to Mueneputo,! the king nearest Angola. Perhaps that river may be the Coanza, and we have left behind us the Conenis for want of astronomical observations. This, however, and other interesting points, must remain unsettled ; such were the hurry and impetuosity of the Governo*' de Lacerda, and so wild and disorderly is the present party. 21st to 26th. — The Caffres of Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz pursued the country negresses who came to sell flour, maize, and millet, and stole sundry cobs of Indian corn. This they have done before, and not without their master's knowledge: hearing of it, I asked him to chastise them for conduct which* 'toight bring us into great trouble. 27th. — The Fumo Anceva appeared with a message from the Cazembe, complaining that certain Caffres of our party, not content with running over all the plantations (mundas) and crops (searas), had carried their insolence so far as to plunder the property of his wives, which the latter would not suffer. He had therefore determined to divide a plot of manioc amongst the whites and their slaves (checundas),J the captives and half- civilized property of those dwelling at the Rios de Sena. Thus on the next day all the slaves were summoned for muster, in order that each might carry away his master's share. I satis fied the complaint to the best of my ability, and 1 accepted the offer, admiring the king's generosity. January 28th to Februury 4:th. — On the latter day the Ca zembe showed himself convalescent to his people, who received him with pjjlm-p.lgppjnfys. with shouts of..jpy, and with concerts otmasralfes-and other instrumenls." Vasco Joaquim Pires showed his libertinism by saying that he wanted no mass, and from that day forth he never attended divine service. To-day I heard J Nyanza-Mputo. The '_' -w!^,fer , nf yyrhigal " usually The Sbibuiri ia clearly "the " Q.uiburiV then brother- * Which we should -write Nyanza-Mputo. The " w!^,fer nf yy^-rjiigal "usually means the i tie ' Second Expedition' Sso mentions .V'kin^ Muenenputo, near the Muropue ; whilst the traveller J. Rodrigues Gra9a says that the Muenenputo das- Praias obeys the Matiamvo (Mwata y& Nvo). X Eronerl-y ipganing Caffre slaves speaking Portuguese. Dr. Kirk informs mo that only tW ct'ie'f ()l:"''a''Ga3ing expeditioii Is WHSiSied. But Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 14) say, " Aos escravos ohamam Checuuda," 120 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THEJOTENAL. Chap. IV. that all the Caffres were freely selling their stores of ivory and slaves (merendas). 5th to nth. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja informed me that Pedro Xavier Velasco was still intriguing with the Cazembe to pre vent our passing on to Angola. His reason was, that JaL tho^Governor's death.^e had lost t,^" fha-nop nf f.prtaiTi a.d- fvantages promIa.edJQjiim in,caaej3£success7 "STose Rodrigues Caleja said he could prove the charge, and offered to swear to it, I ordered the members of the expedition to send in their attes tations on oath, with a view of documenting so extraordinary a proceeding. " - l6't/i'to nth. — The same Jose Rodrigues Caleja, despising my prohibition and taking up, with the greatest imprudence, the subject of our advance to Angola, asked me to go with him about the matter to the_JIuenempanda, the influential war-chief of the Cazembe. When" i asked" nim his ground for ex pecting success from such proceedings, he simply replied that i^they were necessary. Not wishing to involve myself in his imprudence, I refused to go ; but, as he had proceeded so far, I authorized him, accompanied by Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and by Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz, to take a piece of ¦ cloth as an-una^ke(^ "^ mouth '' ,to , 1-1"^^ C^^phap.p.p.r They carried with tliem the l!'umo Anceva: the latter, and the Muenempanda, after long debate touching the difficulties, promised that day to* speak with the Cazembe, and informed the whites that they must appear on the morrow before the king, with a certainty of their request being granted.* 12th. — Sickness having hitherto prevented my personally congratulating the Cazembe on his recovery, I begged audience of him, and he replied that he would receive nie on the evening of that day. Accordingly, at 2 p.m., I went to the palace, but, as the king, together with his grandees, was in the assembly ^oi Pombe,t the porters would not allow me to pass the first gate, and quickly shut it. I spent an hour and a-half at the entrance, to prove that I had not missed my appointment, jwhen certain grandees came out and showed themselves con- [cerned by my waiting, without, however, being able to remedy it. At last appeared the Prince Muenebuto sufSjaeBtljt-dis^ guised in beer. As he wished to carry me belOTe his father, nis uncle (cousin ?), the Sana Muropue. whose head was cooler. * It need hardly be remarked that tbe idea never once entered either black t " Sitting on Pombe " is the Kisawahili phrase, meaning that he was •' drinking for drunk " native beer : most African cliiefs in the interior do this regularly every dayftftcr noon. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 291) say, " estar no Pombe." -Chap. IV. EEVOCATION OF LEAVE OF DEPAETUBE. 121 prevented this proceeding and took me to his own house. He apologised for the porters, assured me that his brother (uncle ?) had not heard of my coming, and, finally, he declared to me that the king, being in his Pombe, could not have spoken with me.* l^th. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja told me that the Cazembe had summoned the whites for the next day, intending to concede transit through his country to Angola; and that he wished to see those chosen for the journey. As it appeared that some difficulty might be caused by sending Pe<^ja>.,2^aYJ^.y?l^f ^" f* who was personally distasteful to the Cazembe, I nominated in his steaa L/ieutenant j ose V icente r ereira isalema. 14th. — I went with all the whites to the palace, and we were at once conducted to the place where the king was giving audience to hiajQaboceers and people. He was, they told me, admonishing thein to abandon and abominate the crime of sorcery, to which he attributed all his illness. Having waited!^ half-an-hour till this levee ended we followed the king, who passed into another place. There he inquired for the envoys, Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, chosen by . Governor de Lacerda and Lieutenant Jose Vicente Pereira Salema. Having seen and recognized them, he entered into* the former difficulties, beginning with the Governor's death and ending with the scarcity on the road. Jose Rodrigues Caleja at once assured the king that, being ordered by Her Most Faithful Majesty to execute the journey at every risk, the envoys would go, if it cost all their lives. The Cazembe turned 'in wonder to his people: exclaimed "Truly these messengers greatly fear and respect their Sovereign, not even objecting t(^ incur death." Then, continuing the address to us, he granted the wished-for leave to the two envoys ; and promised guides to the Muropue, cautioning us, however, not to delay, as his messengers were ready to depart.t I acknowledged the kind ness, and we retired to make preparations, whilst the others, on their side, showed no less activity, j: 15th. — At y A.M. caino-ttie l^^umo Anceva and his party, '.requesting me to assefnble the whites, as he had a matter to lay before them. ,. When this was done, he declared that the Cazembe had r^gQkp.^^ his permission_oL.y£ate3aiay : it was not right for us^bn' our first ^isit to 'E^*country, to carry out thiy project ; ..we must return to Tete and report to our Sovereign the troubles and dangers of such an undertaking ; and then, if V */At last, the truth ! -f '^^n fni'lll"1i° ""•""'^fltii'"*^"ll " is iuatinctivelv a prime favourite witji,,^t£pcans.- X A mere ^Btence, as will presently appear. 122 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. IV. we were again sent, we should have his leave and assistance. He concluded with saying that the ardour with which I, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, and Jose Rodrigues Caleja, had entered into •the affair had estranged the king's heart, and that we had shown but little judgment. Such a message was not from the Cazembe. The Fumo Anceva made me come to the ball, as they say, either because he thought that I, as Commandant, had. egged on the other two,. or because, havjng taken an aversion to me, he wanted the cha^e^XiuiilS^iwiKi^) <5l' 'touiitiuyri ES'leareT'lEain "migKt .^report his evil doings to the Cazembe. After consulting those ' present, I replied to the Fumo Anceva that we had not looked for the Sovereign breaking his word, juch ^g^'^^ing ijho custom of the kings(Mambos), but thatTS^teF'mature'^aelibe- ration in a'case'so'newfoTus, we would send a reply. I said no- more, hoping that the Cazembe would hesitate to tarnish his name by a breach of faith and would withdraw the prohibition.. Jose Rodrigues Caleja announced to me that Pedro Xa'vie^ Velasco, having gone yesterday at noon to visit the Cazembd,. the, porters had shut the_door in his face. 16th. — At lTrA'.JL7TEe^anaT[uropue took his seat outside my door, and requested that I would muster the whites to hear his message. This was done when Jose Rodrigues Caleja, assum ing a prophetic strain, declared that he knew the business to be- a demand for the presents (mirambos) destined for the Muro piie, the Mueneputo, and the minor chiefs on the way to^ Angola. His conjecture, however, proved to be untrue. The Sana Muropue told us all at once that the Cazembe had sent him to verify the message yesterday delivered to the Fumo^ Anceva in his own presence, and that, seeing our readiness to rush into danger, he would not allow us passage to Angola till our second visit. Moreover, the king found it hard that he who, opening the roads which had been closed by Chibuy, Governing/ Fumo of the Muizas, had sent his vassals to buy cloth, and to ^ing whites with much treasure to his kingdom, should see- such valuables pass out of it.* When the message was over, Jose Rodrigues ^Caleja caused it to be explained to the Sana Muropue that the whitesy also did not wish to expose their lives for the purpose oi death, and that they returned thanks to the Cazembe. I at once_ stopped the message, asking Jose Rodrigues Caleja how it agreed with what he had spoken on the 14th instant, in presence of the Cazembe and his chiefs. Ashamed of " =* This again is the truth coming out at last. Jose' Eodrigues Caleja had/ doubtless been intriguing to bring it about. ^ Chap. IV. AEEOGANCE OF THE PUMO ANCEVA. 123 rashness and cowardice., he changed colour .¦aad...Jhfi]iL..his ' peace^^^Havin gTaken all the votes, they were unanimous for 'our'acfing according to the Cazembe's wishes. This did not quite please me, but, to gain time, I assented. The mild address of the Sana Muropue giving me an opportunity to publish the insufferable arrogance with which the Fumo AncevS'^ had spoken yesterday, I asked him, before replying, if the Cazembe really held me to be a man of as little judgment as his officer had declared ; also, if it was true, as the same person had asserted, to a Caffre linguist of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, that, had the whites (Muzungos) been Muizas, the king would have cut off their heads. -^ Here all my party present showed their timidity and their habits of murmming ; even unto openly asking me whether I wanted satisfaction from the Cazembe or from the Fumo Anceva. Not heeding their criticisms, I ordered my question to be put to the Fumo Anceva, who denied the whole, declaring it an imposture. After this reply, which showed to all the confusion of the proud Caffre, I sent to say to the Sana Muropue, that I had never expected the king to break his word^ a thing impossible even amongst the Caffre chiefs near his country ; but that, as the king desired it, we would speak no more about Angola. He left us, and on the evening of that day I proceeded to a judicial inquiry upon the subject of Pedro Xavier Velasco's offences. ( 124 ) CHAPTER V. . -Continuation of the Chaplain's Diaet from Pebeuakt 17, 1799, TO THE Time of Pkepaeing foe the Eetuen Maech. February 17, 1799. — At 8 a.m. the Sana Muropue returned to my house, and, in presence of all the whites, delivered a message from the Cazembe, that, as there was no more talk of Angola, he wanted the now superfluous presents intended fo» the Muropue and the Mueneputo.* I put it to the vote of all : they were in a panic lest I should refuse : knowing the demand would be made, they augured the worst ;.,.|gfiff;ifii.iXoj:,fey Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Velasco (sic pro Nolasco) Vieira d'Araujo, the chief sergeant Pedro Xavier Velasco, and Antonio Jose da Cruz, were the only officers who did not show fear. All being of one opinion, namely, that refusal would be dangerous, I was obliged to consent ; but before doing so, I inquired of the Sana Muropue what the Cazembe meant by such a claim ; J^e replied it was all done in good friendship. I added that the presents should be put into his hands, hot into those of the Fumo Anceva, as the latter had received a con siderable gift in the name of our sovereign, and we did not Know whether it had reached its destination. Moreover, that besides plundering what was given to his master, he robbed what the Cazembe sent to his friends and relatives (buenozes).V But I insisted that in presence of the king the first present should De referred to. The Fumo Anceva changed colour, now deny ing that he had received the gift, then affirming that he had given up all to his master. The Sana Muropue confirmed this ^last assertion, and relieved the Caffre whose guilt was evident ; either to please the Cazembe who much affected his minister, or to draw him from a confusion which also fell upon all the nation (Murundas).t Yet I persisted that the present gift should be reported before delivery, and to that purpose I sent * This was one of the strongest reasons for tbe transit not being allowed. The message was delivered by the apparent friend of the party, the Sana Muropue, .after the bully Pumo Anceva had been allowed to frigliten them. All was peifectly en reule. t Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 213) call the people generally Lundas, Murundas, or Arundas. ,.,..i.™i.~„ Chap. V. PEINCE MUENEBUTO. 125 H the lieutenant, Antonio Jose da Cruz, who could not, however, find the Cazembe at home. Thn pnni- 1-ing- hag thf? nfmoiPt4in believe that over-zeal for his interests make.Ti.the F^mo Ancfiva, ^ho is the greatest thief in his dominions, suff§r^2ffi«2!B£j^tkfi«i 'charges. I was therefore obliged'lx) deliver "t^Gepr^ent with out further ado, and without verifying the delivery of the ( former gift, a fact committed to paper and signed by all the ' party.* In the evening I began to inquire into the misdemeanour of Pedro Xavier Velasco. 18thr-21st. — There was drumming and dancing (tombocapao), which other Caffres of these parts call " l^'^lBtoiftffl'^i" "*" ^'"t'^vg"^ Prince Muenebuto and his brother-in-law Chibuery, already alluded to on January 20th. The Cazembe was present with his usual dignity, but guarded by armed Caffres.^ as the prince ^ danced with his large knife drawn in^ order to touch wif,h it i '""that of hj|g fathAr fl. si^n.nf harinnr and rpgppr».t The Cazembe, ^ however, thus favoured only his son. The ceremony took place in the open space before the principal gate of the palace, a great crowd of people having instruments collected, and there also were our troops, for whom the Cazembe sent, and whose discharge of musketry he himself directed. It was said that this fete was to celebrate his having closed once for all the -¦ Angola road, so as to increase his connection with Tete, whence their best things came. This was not confirmed, as they do not wish to break off with Angola. I will now describe Muenebuto the prince, and his Murundas. Muenebuto is tail, good-looking, and well proportioned ; his ex pression is pleasing, nay, almost always cheerful and smiling ; he ^cares only for amusement, and his age — twenty years — permits nothing else. On the contrary, the Cazembe shows gravity and inspires respect ; he also is tall, and well built, and his age may be about fifty. As he has many wives — ^the greatest sign of Caffre dignity — he becomes every year the father of two, three, or four children. He is very generous at times in giving slaves and pieces of cloth to his vassals, as well as to strangers and whites, when he is not set against them ; and every day he sent the Muzungos money and different presents of pro visions, captives, ivory or copper bars, in proportion to their offerings of cloth and beads, and according to his regard for them. He is severe ; death, or at least amputation of the hand, being * Those who have not travelled in Africa often wonder at all the importance attached to these trifling presents. But&g,ja£t is^^t^wHhQutsugp;ljga,.the. ^^.jaiMiiww»-ia-.bi;jjmjr^jt t." o dea.d stop, noOakm^^to accountthe "hardships and sufferings of return, i'he explorer, therefore, must fight for every cubit nf r^nih .,^nd this is, perhaps, the_seYerest part oi nis lasg. I Ha-tlVti ItiHlviLies. including drmlsing ana cancan. 126 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. the usual punishment. He is barbarous ; every new uioon causes a Cagi;e to be HlIe4"hy-liis^g4iciQ£i--:::^^-a^^3SE'Kt victim s^EMdrheart. and .part .oi„iha..£3atoiIs,.they makft-Up 1 'TPfidTd.ti.e,-.alwgyRjmixing iLwith oil. When these charms a prepared, they are inserted into the horns of various anima and even into scrivellos, which are closed with stoppers wood or cloth. These fetishes are distributed about his pala md courts ; they are hung to the doors, and for fear of sorce ;he king never speaks to any one without some of these hor ying at his feet.* He holds assemblies of his chiefs, who are invited to drii pombe, or millet-beer, which is mixed with other pulse or n gs each man's taste is. These drinkings begin with the fi moon, and continue to the end ; they commence daily at before 1 p.m., and they last two hours. All those present drii as much as they please, but should any one vomit in t assemHyjjthe_wretchJsisupefstition^^ndSOTTTi^e'airthe^people, the Cazembe is e so much so as are others. He visits no one in person, ai never leaves his palace to walk ; he has the name of beii proud, but his people make him inconsistent. The subjects (Murundas), who say that sixty years ago thi came from the Western regions and established themselves the_ lands of tLfi-.smflllSIlfid.JAGixas.I'Messiras). are of the sai nation as the Cazembe, whose rites and customs they follow. Usually the men are tall, dark, well made, and good-lookin they tattoo (incise), but do not paint their bodies, nor do th jag their teeth. Their dress is a cloth extending from t waist to the knees, which are exposed by the garment bei: raised in front ; it is girt by a leathern belt, 4 to 10 finge broad. Their gala-dress is called " Muconzo ;" t it is of woolL or cotton, but it jQMJstJiaJilaals,- To make it they cut a pie 5^ fathoms, or a little less in length, and if it be too she they add a bit of the same quality ; the breadth is 2^ han( and if wider it is reduced to that size. It must be finish^ ¦with a full edging, which increases it in all parts ; this bord is made of three strips of a different cloth, each 4 finge broad. When the colour is red, for instance, the middle white; it is yellow if the middle be red or white. Final! they diversify these strips as they please, always taking ca that the colour differs from the body or the principal part of tl cloth. When putting on the " Muconzo," they cover the wai f * Small horns of goats and antelopes are thus used in Unyamwezi, stuffed wi thin iron wire ; in Congo with strips of cloth. t Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 238) call it Muconzo and Mooonzo. €hap. V. THE MUEUNDAS. 127 and legs, finishing at the front of the person with a great band of artificial pleats ; and the larger it is, the grander is the garb. For arm-ornamente they use strings of fine beads like bracelets ; their feet are covered with strung cowries, large opaque stone ware beads (pedras de cores), and white or red porcelains (velorios). Over their combed head-dresses, which are of many braids, large and small, they wear a cap (carapupa), covered with exquisite birds'-plumes ; the locks are also striped (barradellas) with a certain clay, which, when dry, resembles the levigated sandal-wood used by the Moors and Gentoos (Hindus) ; the stripes, however, are only on the crown and temples (molleira). Others rub their bodies upon the waist and upwards to the hair with a certain vermilion (vermelhao),* here common. Such is the gala dress. Their every-day clothing is a little cloth, 1^ to 2 fathoms long, with or without a border of a single strip; others wear bark cloth, like the Muizas, or edgeless cotton ; and finally, coarse native cotton (maxilas de Gondo),t as each one has or can afford. As usual the women dress better than the men, as to the kind of cloth, which is of wool ("collomanhal or similar stuff. They also use, like the males, strings of many sorts of beads, to cover their ankles, but they are not so fond of cowries or por celain (velorio). Their coiffure is unlike that of the men ; they cut off all the hair, leaving a httle lock in the middle, which in time, growing long, serves to support a kind of diadem; the rest of the hair, when it grows, forming sundry lines of short braid. Their ordinary dress is extremely poor, consisting of one very small cloth. Thp.{^A TynroAn, -ffh^ ftlpo cp.n be S(|1d by their husbands, lead the lives of slaves, doing all the labour of domestic slave^ '"" "TBi?*MurtiK9as,t like other peoples of this country, have no (practical) religion. They recognize the existence of a (-sovereign creator of the world, and call him " Reza." but they consider him a tyrant that permits his creatures' death. They have great veneration for their Azimps (murimos), or dead. whom they consult on all occasion™TT''war"or"gODd" fortuni^' The Caffre servants of any Mopaza,§ or place in which a king i.si buried, havem^ The Azimos require offerings of * It has previously been described as being wood-powder. t The expression is fully explained in the diary of June 20-23. Dr. Kh-k says that a "Maxila de garda" is a hammock of native d^Ji, " Maxila de Gondo " is a stutt "so coarse tha-il™IRlfflI{lTOKS'i!SSTeTn'a3e oTit Hence Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 70) call the coarse cotton cloth made by the Marave, "Manxila." See June 20-23, 1799, where the Chaplain explains the words. X In the original misprinted " Mosundas." Vj § Mussassa is a camp: here it must be the burial-place before called M^xSmo. 1 128 PE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V, provisions, as dough (massa), a food made of manioc flour, to stew with the porridge, which in the Brazil is called Angii ; of quiriapy (any mess of meat, fish, or herbs), and of pombe, the millet-beer before described. They greatly respect what the oracle says to them. Their sons are circumcised between the ages of fourteen and eighteen,* and they affect polygamy, which they regard as their greatness, much wondering at the one-wife marriage of ^he whites. Their unions are effected without ceremony: the would-be husband goes to the father or guardian of the girl, who may be quite a child, and with him arranges the dowry in cloths, which, if great, may reach a dozen. After this arrangement, called Jlfitothal (joborac^o), the payment being left to the bride groom's convenience, they arrange a day for leading home the -bride, who, until of nubile years, remains with her parents. Consummation is done thus : carried by the horse of some Caffre, and accompanied by her female relations and friends, beating drums, the bride is escorted to near the bridegroom's house, and when close to it they send him word that they bring his wife. This done, they drum and dance till some velorio beads are sent to them, after which they advance two paces or so, and stop till they get more. Thp,jiuJusJtnamagfedaji..^a. ^00 r^^affi:a_m.us.ij;iQt»onfy. strip hims6l4->bnt.alsa.gftaMit. bnrjftar.- ring, to show that ha has given alLliis own... Seeing nothing more come, they inspect the sum offered them, then they ad vance nearer, and at length they hand over the bride to the chief wife and her companions, and retire to their homes, leav ing her in tears. As the Caffres may buy an unlimited number of spouses, even their slaves being wives to them, they choose ^one, and call her the great woman, and she is the most respected. Her peculiar duties are to preserve the husband's wardrobe and njig^^gines, and to...app]y thft.Ialter..adi£Ji-jeqj3Uu:£d ; witliajiijising 'them no one^goes jto war^jtojiunt, or to travel, or, indeed, on any impoftantBusiness. """" ' """""""' The funerals of these people are proportioned to the means of the deceased. Their pomp consists in the great cortege by which the body is borne to the grave, and in the quantity of ^ food and drink expended upon the crowd of people, who sing- and dance to the sound of drums. If the deceased be a king, , he must carry with him all that he possesses, with slaves tor servg,,J^l_ and women for his pleasures.t Throughout hii * In Dahomey this rite is deferred often till the twentieth year, and then it ^becomes dangerous. I have repeatedly recorded my opinion that it is of African, origin, borrowed by the Jews from the negroid race. ——.—~—~~, "TTms;f)ace1>r.'LiViirgstone, is still thegSSeral practice of Negroland, hut it Chap. V. ,' COUNTRY OF THE MUEUNDAS. 129 dominions robberies^ and d^iiyorder (c.1,f^rerjx'La,na..j>iU.(»wed-iQB..t,An jQIUflftfienidayScOr p^ipn^mnvp ThAT7j^arlliAgj-| pijimAg are witch- sraft. adultery, ard^ till"^^~ ^be first, and the most enormous, is always punished capitally ; the second sometimes, but more •often by mytilation nf thA hand.g. thA Aa.r.c!, and ihp. ofFpnAimg- meiTibfir. They are less severe with the women, as a rule, but some plaintiffs are not satisfied except by death. Although they cut off the thief's hands and ears, many wretches have , ^exposed themselves to such mutilation. The soil of this land is fertile, and would produce all that the people want ; there are many kinds of food, but the principal is manioc. They eat it in dough, toasted and boiled and even raw ; and they drink it in pombe with a little mixture of millet. < Manioc flour for dough is easily made in the following way : after gathering the root, they peel it, and soak it in a stream for three days ; on the fourth, when it is almost rotten, they dry it in the summer sun, or in winter over a fire which they light under the cots used for this purpose ; and, finally, they pound it , in a tree-trunk mortar. Wa may .gay thf|f, they are collecting -and sowing this root all the year round, but the harvest is Jghm. ¦ .IjroYision IS wEolTv " waiifimg. .STsuch times they dig up a srnall 'quantify to last for a few days, and i^jts stead they bury ga few bitsj3,f„s|-|^.J,Hs ^bich a.ct as s^ed. The rams are abundant and regular. Fruits are feAvTexcept bananas of many kinds : of live stock, poultry is the most plentiful and goats are rare. Game and fish suffice, but they cannot salt their provision, so to keep it they dry it with fire and smoke, making it unfit for us to eat. Tl^f» h1af.lr^aa.t.flA i,s,,yAlL,flajrmiJAd, but Only the king'^ jjgeps them, in certain riaceSpto^ : he does not ¦eat their flesb. savihgtliat thev aren^Smo^. like himself : also ' he does not milk them, not knowing how, so the cows are almost* wild. Her^ wp. find jrftces of the Metemp.sycho.sis theory.* With this idea the king sends his cattle as gifts to his guests, and when they die or are killed for injuring, millet fields — these .a,nimals pasture by night and sleep,, by day — he divides the ' meat amongst his people, who, not considering them, like their king, great Fumos, eat them unscrupulously. Cow leather makes their girdles, that of other horned cattle their dress, and cows' blood enters into their medicines. Therefore they sent us only dead and skinned animals. There may be many articles of trade, but it is now confined is not confined to that part of the world. Perhaps we may better define it, "tho general concomitant of a particular phase of society.'' , * Superficial-- obsemetalaam. .jmfnmid the highly nhilosophical-and. com plicated. JKeory" of metempsychosis with the vulgar metamorphosis of the savage , -African. " ¦"—'"» ~-~^- —-'— — — ~™ - - —-.-s-^ 130 FE. PIN'D?^ CON'HfrlUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. to two — ivoty and slaves. A tusk of 32 lbs. to 48 lbs. costs 2 to 3 pieces of cloth, the piece being H to 2 fathoms long, and ten couros.* The tusk of 80 lbs. to 96 lbs. is worth 5 to 6 pieces, with a little couro or velorio. There are copper bars sold for four common cloths, or pagnes (pannos de fato), or 40 to 50 couros ; the small bars cost as a rule one cloth's worth of mis sanga. ^laeiit,#cegagtQn.&^aap.lachj|jp t) of different sizes is sold cheap, but the two latter articles are not indigenous. 22nd. — The Sana Muropiie took away, in presence of aU. the whites, the gifts destined for the Muropue and the Mueneputo, as was promised at our assembly on the 17th instant. 23rd. — Having ordered Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz, commandant of the troops, to chastise a soldier with forty blows, he not only disobeyed me, but he also falsely reported having •Carried out my orders. February 2ith to March 1st. — The men, instigated by their officers, demanded an advance of three months' pay, which I sent to them without receiving any reply. 2nd-4ith. — I gave Pedro Xavier Velasco leave to go back to Tete, not only at his request, but because I wished to avoid the disgust shown by all the Expedition to the Cazembe, with whom, it is said, this arrangement of return had been made in anticipa tion of my desires. Jose Rodrigues Caleja, hearing this, wished to interfere and exceeding his duties as guide and Receiver of the Treasury, he addressed me a note in which, after a fashion, he- made himself accessory to the command. As I took no notice of his false reasonings, he began to show me aversion and to seek ¦I ¦ *""il»li..iLIII«i"""'"l"^ "'""" ¦-•-¦¦ I II I MllM-l IIIMl rTI II >ni |iis revenge. 5'th. — The'iiianioc grown in the land which the Cazembe had offered to the whites (mjiaillSPs) on the 27th January was divided, but their carelessness prevented them sending their slaves (che- cundas) to receive the portion appertaining to them. ""^ 6th-9ih. — Loud murmurs arose about the Expedition arriving^ at the Cazembe's city — which it could not at once leave — during the early month of January, when the evils caused by the wet season and the country rendered a long rest necessary. As Jose Rodrigues Caleja, by declaring me to be the cause of the delay and of their consequent sufferings, showed signs of stirring up against me even the most indifferent, I assembled all the whites. They knew what were my reasons for wintering here, so I resolved that each should separately declare his opinion touch ing our inaction, whether it could have been avoided or not and * From the context it would appear that these couros are some kind of bead. t Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 288) mention malachite " malaquites," which the Cazembes call " chifuvia." I have seen fine copper from the Cazembe's country. Chap. V. DIFFICULTIES WITH SUBORDINATES. 131 how. I told the writer, or notary, to take the paper in which all had recorded their opinions, to draw it up in legal form, and to get their signatures. It was late when we separated, and the scribe was not skilled enough to draft the deed without' the aid of others. He went to Jose Rodrigues Caleja, being of that party, and with him falsified not only Caleja's vote but -also that^of. Vasco Joaquim Pire.s, as is proved m""t^fi"^ocged ^ paper. I was disregarded by Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, and when I wished to punish him there' and then he would not be arrested, nay, with threats he declared that His Excellency, the Captain-General of Mozambique, should not deprive him of 1 his receivership, as had been done to Lieut. Manoel dos Santos Silva. As I had little power, nothing was effected. I asked Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, the first guide, how to ascertain from Chinhimba and Mossindassaro the deficiency of the loads entrusted to them for carriage to the Cazembe's court. He replied, in the presence of many, that this must be done with the beneplacel/ of the king, whose vassals they were. Finding the answer reasonable, I entrusted to him the business, which he undertook promptly and with good will. 10th. — Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz, when ordered to attest in writing the refusal of Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira to submit to arrest yesterday, gave in his attestation which denied all that had happened. 11^^14^^. — Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, whom I had resolved to send on the 8th instant to the Cazembe in the matter of Mossindassaro and Chinhimba, when asked by Jose Rodrigues Caleja not to delay, excused himself by means of hi^ Caffre , TtiIicTtii^^^P saying that the latter did not _wish_to...bear , any messa,gg_to .the G^a^^^pr"'VhPTarMr^n^arvai^ii\ n g thing is, that they try to lay the blame upon me, when at the same time they bar my road to the king, and they prevent the two Caffres '' obeying all my summons. At last I tried every effort to send some other person on this errand to the king, who deferred it till the morrow. 15th. — Sending back to the Cazembe the messenger who had returned yesterday, I heard to-day that the king was pleased with my calling up and examining the two Caffres before men tioned. When they declined to obey my summons I reported the fact to the king, begging that his messenger would conduct them into my presence. He promised but he never performed, which I attributed to the intrigues of Caleja. This man, under colour of benefiting D. Francisca Josefa of Tete, whose niece he had married, declared that the late Governor de Lacerda, who had taken charge of that lady's venture, and whose death K 2 132 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OP THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. had caused the goods to be confused, had concealed by means of the Mossindassaro, six bales (moteros *) of cloth, and had changed the mark or mixed the articles, removing 150 pannos and two bags (guissapos)t of velorio beads. These he had wished to make over to J). Francisca's slave, Candeone, in order to exchange for ivory. And this was done with the knowledge of the governor's managing man, whose duty it was to take charge of those articles.-jQrptexting the report spread by Jose Rodrigues Caleja that the manager had wished to appro priate the said spoils. This trick of Jose Rodrigues Caleja's Iwas very ingenious, for not only was that Caffre encouraged to conceal 912 more cloths (pagnes) of royal property, but Chin- limba, the other Caffre messenger, also took heart successfully lo embezzle from the Crown 456 cloths, three bags (guissapos) of Velorio, two ditto of (red) beads, and one of cowries. 16th-28th. — Jos6 Rodrigues Caleja was always imposing upon them the necessity of giving the Cazembe time to prepare for our departure. The others being sick, I directed him to go with a " mouth " or parcel of cloth and to make preparations, at the same time reviving the matter of the two Caffres. The Cazembe received him well, and said that he knew — the winter now being over — that the Expedition would wish to return to Tete. As regards the defaulting Caffre, he said that the whites had allowed a long time to pass in silence, and had finally received every thing. The first part of this reply could not have come from a Caffre, who .g^UJiold that the palavgr (milando) never dies jor ettT"*"^^ ' wastes, but is kept" up till '''settlecP froni generation to genera- 1* tionTSo i resoivedeifher that tlie king had noTsaS^tTor had "HBeen taught to say it by Jose Rodrigues Caleja. The affair was not pushed further, because it was not advisable to call Chinimba to account until the appearance of Mossindassaro, who would hear of it from the Cazembe and conceal himself 29th-30th. — I gave the said Caffres some small quantity of clothing for which they asked, thus hoping to assemble them and to elicit something about the hidden goods. 31st. — The Cazembe sent me the chair enclosed in his pre sent (mirambo), begging me to have it lined with " cherves," t which was done at once. «*¦¦«—' A;pril lst-7th. — By an accidental fire eight of my slaves were „- burned in their own huts; many of the Expedition rejoiced/^ thereat, and a certain Jose Thomaz Gomes da Silveira, openly * This is afterwards explained to be one-third of 456 cloths, that is to say, each 152 cloths. t J^^ .'^"'^ " Ruissapo " means a hag of bamboo rind or grass cloth. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 195) speak of " um Quissdpo, sacco feito de palma." y X Dr. Kirk could not inform mo what kind of cloth " cherves " is. / Chap. V. CONSPIRACY AMONG SUBOEDINATES. 133 wished that the accident had taken pla««e in my house. I report this and other things, which do not exactly relate to the service of the Crown, both to carry out my instructions and to show the , character of my subordinates. 8th-9th. — The Cazembe forbade the whites, who had begun their cabals greatly to his disgust, all intercourse with him, thus avoiding their impertinences, and he, wondered at our disunion. 'r^ ""lOth.^^Jose Rodrigues Caleja, an old enemy of Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos e Silva, with whom he appeared friendly only when wishing to insult me, after visiting him in his sick ness, declared to me that he wished for death, and that if he knew of anything to end his life he would take it. ^ lli}h-12th. — I had some inklings that the crime charged upon Pedro Xavier Velasco was a mere imputation, and Lieutenant Jos^ Vicente Pereira Salema confessed that he had been intimi^ dated to give false witness by Jose Rodrigues Caleja. I also learned that Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, after his deposi tion, went to Pedro Xavier Velasco's quarters, and told him that I wanted to drink his blood, which was my reason for draw ing up papers against him, but that no depositions made by' himself or his colleagues would do him any injury. 13th. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja convoked, in the house of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, to debate over the affair of the 9th of March, all those of his party, viz.. Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, Lieutenant Manoel' dos Santos e Silva, Captain Jose da Cruz, Jose Thomaz Gomes da Silva, Lieutenant Jose Vicente Pereira Salema, and Ensign Jose Joaquim Pires; they agreed to outrage me in that business, first by word and then by deed. The Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo and the chief sergeant Pedro Xavier Velasco were sick, and not of the league. I had no testimony whereby to convict them, thus they could insult me with impunity. The former of these two, however, came unexpectedly upon them, and the^ project fell to the ground. All this was told to me by Lieutenant Jos6 Vicente Pereira Salema, whom as the most timorous they sent to me with a paper of their requisitions. 14:th-15th. — Jos^ Rodrigues Caleja, who was in the habit of/ troubling me morning and Ayf^fflpp^faTnA Aariy +» rApnrt thof messengers were expected from Tete to recall the troops, as there was great alarm of the French. 16th. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja required me to assemble the members in order to determine how to sell the Crown stores remaining in the receiver's hands. My reply was that I had reasons for not convening any more of such assemblies. He went at once and wrote me a letter representing the loss that 134 PE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OP THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. would result from taking the goods back to Tete. In view of all this trouble I at once ordered the stores to be valued. 17ih. — The effects were valued by the arbitrators at only double their cost-price at Tete, and the receiver, with sundry impertinences, demanded permission to sell them. I ordered them to be sold for the sums offered, finding that nothing more advantageous could be obtained. l8th-19th. — I sent to compliment the Cazembe, who was then a great friend of mine ; he sent back that he wanted to see me. 20^^.^ — I returned an answer to the Cazembe's message, de claring that I would call upon him personally. 21 s^. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja, angry because, without con sulting him, I had allowed Pedro Xavier Velasco to return to Tete, and because I would not be made the tool of his private enmities, did all he could to annoy me. He teazed me with requests to smuggle out the cloth required for our return march, as the Cazembe would never allow it, after once enter ing, to leave the country. Fearing his malice, I appointed him and the guide, Gonpalo Caetano Pereha, to fix upon the quantity and the place. The former was settled, the latter they re fused to tell me, pleading that, as we had travelled together, I — a chaplain — must know as much as they (the guides) did. 22nd-23rd. — I again ordered the two aforesaid guides to tell me the "cache," and they refused. 24 ^A.'^^ne' Cazembe consented to receive me on the morrow, and to send a household officer to conduct me, as the Fumo Anceva wished all the whites to be purely dependent upon himself. Jose Rodrigues Caleja happened to be present, and, dissimulating his jealousy of my getting an audience when he had failed, begged me to forward the departure of the Ex pedition, which, depending upon the Cazembe, would easily be forgotten unless often brought to mind. 25th. — After a short delay I was admitted to the Cazembe, who received my compliments kindly, respond ing, Jjriefly after thg country fashion. This over, I earnestly praye3~hirh to forwarcTTheTime" of our return; to which he also replied favourably. I then submitted to him that on reaching Tete there would be a difficulty in explaining to my superiors the prohibition of passing over to Angola; he bade me leave two y members of the party to proceed there after our departure. The Fumo Anceva wrested this into a demand that each of the whites should leave behind one or two^Qheundas.* Knowing^ that the slaves would be pawns for our future communication^ and that the Caffres being scarce, and many of them sickly, the " This, I presume, is " checuuda " — a slave. •Chap. V. INTEEVIEW WITH THE CAZEMBE. 13.5 whites would not consent to the measure. I replied that when •Catara and Chinimba had come with friendly messages to Tete, we had at once set out without hostages. Hearing me speak to the soldier-hnguist in theSg}][^, dialect, the Cazembe at once explained that he did notwant hostages, but two persons to go to Angola. I could not reply to so sudden and unexpected a permission, so I told the king that the presents destined for the Muropue and the Muenebuto having been given away, and the treasury being exhausted, my confusion prevented my returning^ an answer. The Cazembe at once said that he would manage about the presents, and that all I had to do was to look after the subsistence and the means of travel. I finally answered that the matter should be thought over. He then spoke of the opaque stoneware beads (pedras de cores) which he wanted from the Whites, who still, ne knew, had good things. I contented him as weU as possible, and left deeply preoccupied about Angola. After my return, Jose Rodrigues Caleja, on hearing the affair, malignantly remarked, that if I had proposed Pedro Xavier Yelasco as envoy to the Cazembe, he would soon close the road' "with a new prohibition ; and much of the same kind to throw obstacles in my way.* 26th. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja came, and insultingly showed me a paper in which the lieutenant-colonel Pedro Nolasco Tieira de Araujo and Pedro Xavier Velasco had complained of him, and charged him with being their informant. As if a secret between nine persons could be kept, especially when of the many councillors are Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira and Lieutenant Jose Vicente Pereira Salema, who do nothing but tittle-tattle. I tried to avoid a scandalous rupture, but from that day forward he did nothing but oppose me, wishing to commit all the goods to the Cazembe, and thus to frustrate the transit to Angola. 27th. — The Fumo Anceva came from the Cazembe, refusing passage to Tete for Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, who wished to leave these bad men. I answered that he was not going, because I had not given him leave. This reply closed the Caffre's mouth. . He doubtless had been taught to oppose, this departure, though not by his friendship for the departer. It was Jose Rodrigues Caleja's plan, in opposing the going of "¦ This permission for two of the party to proceed to Angola was a sham, to see ' if any presents had been -withheld, and to try the perseverance of the whites, i The Cazembe must have thought unfavourably of the leader when he hesitated at i once to reply — n, tillJX "vpr tn be avoided in Africa. The two soldiers were eventually left behind as was propASSfl, but' they rie'ver, it need hardly be said, Reached Angola. In 1806 the Angolan Pombeiros found ^ one man gtill^ for permission. r-m.,, i. .,..111111.111 --~«.. '^"™^'^-''™~' 136 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. the two Pedros, Nolasco and Velasco, to forewarn all those who might be useful to him at Tete, adding as many lies as possible, and well knowing that the thing first heard, though false, is generally credited in" preference to trutfar • ¦ Not satistiea by tHis mischief, that perverse man went with Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz to the Cazembe, designing- to traduce me and Pedro Nolasco, but the Cazembe, ^who hatad-hia-, ^'mMniausudispeeition, refused him access. He must indeed be ._a1badIaRbitfti MOT iKihOi JJri.iha.t.ed ,by, CfliffrP"- He reported'To^e * umo Anceva that the Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco and ' the other whites had so well hidden many fine cloths and coloured stoneware beads (pedras pintadas), that these could be dis covered only by opening their boxes. The Cazembe, despite his generosity, was persuaded to give this order, or the Fumo 'Anceva fabricated it. I sent for the lieutenant-colonel, Pedro Nolasco, to hear the message: he excused himself, but he could not prevent the search. I positively refused to sanction it in the case of other whites, knowing that the Fumo Anceva wanted only to enter the receiver's house and to carry off every thing for his king.* 28th-30th. — Jose Thomaz Gomes da Silveira aman at_once prpu^jef ..his-..bii:tL.-and-j::ea(^t4br =any..yileness, Drought,"onTE'e part of the partisans, who knew what to expect in return, a "petition for pardon, and for the papers to be burned. Thinking some severity necessary, I refused to destroy what concerned Pedro Xavier Velasco, as by so doing I might expose myself to their accusations of having made away with public documents,. The Commissary replied that he would return, in hopes of a more favourable answer. To get rid of Jose Rodrigues Caleja, i ordered the cloth necessary for the return march to be brought to my quarters, deducting 100 cloths (pannos) according to the valuation. I also named all those to whom cloth, fine beads, and tin (calaimt) had fallen due for some months. Thus the receiver was lightened, and the goods were safely placed in the hands of individuals. When the corporal (cabo), Paulo da Silva, went to take the cloth for the expedition, Jose RodriguesK Caleja uttered threats, saying that, as I had not consulted him, I should see how it would end. '-• * There is a Pumo Anceva at every African court, who thinks only of recom mending himself to the king by giving any amount of trouble to strangers. Of j course it is a shallow, short-sighted policy, butnoth|np; bpt.tBr nan pnmo .ftni^ ^ho i ,negTo'aiiain. It is, however, dangerous, and must be carefully -watched, as it is"! calculated taj:aiisfi.jli3a^«efthl££Lhet.we,e,n .the meinheja-of an gBgiJition, and! thsft..evei:ythinggoe3 to ruin. I t Monteiro'anffT5umitto (p. 113) speak of " um pao de calaim," a loaf or lump of calaim (Indian tin). Chap. V. INSULTS FEOM SUBOEDINATES. 137 1 May lst-2nd.* — At mass-time I had just arrived at the lutroit,^ when Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz and Vasco Joaquim Pires set up, in the former's lodgings, a song so profane anc _ i. '' CD (J ' 9ti ~ — ''-I iiir -'-till Ml mil INI •¦j'tnUMt so loud, that I could not proceed with the ^crmce, anTs&QtJ;o, beg thenfto ie^Tsilent. Prom that day they ceased attending ¦ at mass, nor did they observe Lent and other Christian duties?^ ^Moreover, Jose Vicente Pereira Salema, whom_ I, when. Prior _of Sena, had "taught to read, writej and cipher, iinpudently "asked hie if Lwas a father or a priestjthatjie should confess^ to me. "TSeut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira consented to the search, and delivered certain large " canutilhos " and other things demanded by the Fumo Anceva for his master. Catara, seeing me assist in the search, at the request of the lieutenant-colonel, Pedro Nolasco Vieira, who, for his own justification, wished it to be public, as all those effects belonged to the late Gover nor, required my house also to be visited. Upon this I sent a message to the Cazembe, saying that all my cloth and beads were kept for him, that I made him small presents every fifteen days, and that I hoped he would not support Catdra's demand. He replied that Catara had received no such power from him. Thus fell to the ground the attempt to divide the 200 cloths kept by me for the expenses of the Expedition. At 11 A.M. Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz brought the subsistence-roll for my signature. I notified to him in writing that one of Jose Rodrigues Caleja's ten Caffres having died, the name must be removed. The pair agreed to write to me in a feigned hand an insulting note, accusing me of having caused^ troubles in the Expedition, and of having prevented the journg^ to Angola, also including the calumny of my beuig intimidated ; so that the note might not be produced. 3rd. — I held the first general meeting of officers (cabo d'or- dens), and proved the outrage of Jose Rodrigues Caleja, who sent his slave Maxima into my courtyard to quarrel with, and itt^ treat, my barber-slave. Ath.—I addressed an official note to Manoel Caetano Pereira, the guide, naming him for the journey to Angola, with 400 cloths and porcelains (velorio) for route expenses, he being able to live almost as a Caffre, and having his own slaves who would not leave him. He returned me the document, saying he .j^oiild -ha^.jiathing to do'-v^l^g vS'iFiig;s.'''X'sAXirTa^ as on Her Most Faithful Majesty's service, and he tried to excuse himself by the persuasion of Jose Rodrigues Caleja.t * In the original diary " March " is an error. / t Here the leader was decidedly wrong : be offered a sum utterly inadequate to v the expenses of such a march, ^ 138 FR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL. Chap. V. 5th. — As Manoel Caetano Pereira would not set out, I de manded back the order granting him 400 cloths ; he offered to return it with his reply to my official. I left it with him, thinking to annul the order by acquainting the receiver with what had happened. I then directed Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz, who commanded the troops, to muster at my quarters two picked men for the journey to Angola. He sent me a pair of invalids, who, as he expected, were rejected, and I chose a good man, well known to me, and bade him look out for a second. At last he sent me the soldier Caetano da Costa, whom I de tached for the duty together with another, giving them beads and 200 cloths. Pedro Xavier Velasco set out from the Mussana (Mussassa ?) on return to Tete, and Jose Rodrigues Caleja collected some of the Caffre slaves furnished to the Expedition by D. Fran cisca, and provoked them to leave the Mussana and to go for slaves and ivory to the Muiza country. This was to make the others desert and to hinder Pedro Xav^ier Velasco's journey. At daybreak they left in my court a defamatory note, so indecent as to be here unproduceable ; it was clearly dictated by Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, and it was written in a dis guised hand by Lieutenant Antonio, Jose ...da. Cruz, jiyho^ has jiot only this talent, b^J^glso Jha};^,9Xi(Kgiag .doCJ^^ certified. 9ih-l0th. — I issued to the soldiers going to Angola — ^Paulo da Silva and Caetano da Costa — 200 cloths and advance pay for three months. The members of the Expedition who suffered from hunger, partly because food was not to be bought and partly from their own improvidence and waste, requested me to supply to them some powder and lead that they might remedy the the evil by hunting. llth~13th. — I issued a keg of powder and 2 bags of lead. The Cazembe sent us a message that after a few days he would change his quarters, and that he wished all the whites to accom pany him. I at once informed the members of the Expe dition. Jose Rodrigues Caleja simply replied that if he left his present quarters it would be to go to Tete. 15th~27th. — The Cazembe asked for a tent, or as they call it, a "xdoth house " o£Ji:Ka:tm±fl.m at.ufF- it was the largest in the Expedition, but I gratified him witli it. 28i;/i-31si;.— At 8 A.M. the Cazembe sent to say that on the next day the whites must remove to his new quarters, where hq, would shortly follow them. Jose Rodrigues Caleja persisted in not moving, and the king told him to go to Tete whenever he pleased, leaving in the hands of his Caffre Candione the business of D. Francisca, whose son he called himself. June 1st.— At 8 a.m. the Expedition, accompanied by the Chap. V. A FIGHT IN THE CAMP. 139 Fumo Anceva, set out for M6ro (Mofo*), its appointed place. Captain Jose' da Cunha and Vasco Joaquim Pires remaining be hind at the old Mussana without leave. A message came after my departure from the Cazembe, requesting an escort of our troops, which could not be granted, as there were no officers to attend to it. Jose Thomaz Gomes da Silva, wanting carriers for his hammocks — all of them having been taken by Jose Rodrigues Caleja and Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz — impudently sent to say that, as he required people, who were all carrying my ivory, he must take the same road as my Caffres, who were burnt to death on April 7th. 2nd. — Josd Thomaz Gomes da Silva came to obtain satis faction for the event of yesterday : I showed him that the ivory, so far from being mine, was in the hands of the executor or attorney of the late governor, and I threatened him with par- ^ ticular punishment in future if the thing recurred. 3rd. — Blows were exchanged between the soldiers and the Muiza Caffres on account of a black woman belonging to one of the former having something to do with the Muiza slaves of the Cazembe's Muiza subjects. The Caffres of D. Francisca were drawn into the fray, which reached such a point that some blows were given to the highly respectable Muiza, Chinhimba.^ In haste I sent for an officer, but the Commandant was away, the two subalterns would not come, and Jose Rodrigues Caleja impudently sent to say that I might do it myself 4ft. — The Fumo Anceva applied for an escort for his king, who would arrive to-morrow. Knowing the Cazembe's fondness for firing, especially on such occasions, I ordered the receiver to^ issue a flask of powder. I told the Fumo Anceva that the troops should be ready when the king arrived within conve nient distance. I also informed the Commandant what honours were to be paid to the king. 5th. — The Commandant applied for another flask of powder, with which and that before given he went to meet the Cazembe at his old residence, thus exceeding his orders. 6th-9th. — The Cazembe, at the advice of his medicine man,|^ left his old court, which was considered unhealthy, for a place newly founded upon the Rio Moro.f He was accompanied and preceded at a short interval by his wives, and he reached his new * See June 6-9th. t TheMnfn..Mniva. Mofwe. Mnftip. rir Mnfn T,nlr{.lo<:^ on whose eastern shore is now the Ganda, Moss-umba, or Chipango (palace) of the Mwata Cazembe. Accord ing to the ' Second Expeditiou ' (p. 316) the old place here alluded to was called Pembiie, and lay one and a half leagues (six miles ) to the east. In the latest maps the lagoon has no watershed, and is probably drained by the Luapula (Eoapula or* Guapula) river into the Moero Lake. 140 PE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. palace at noon. I sent at once my compliments and a request to see him ; he politely received my present and message, but he did not appoint a day for my visit. lOth-llth. — Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz saluted with firing a present of pombe sent by the Cazembe's wife. 12th — At 3 P.M. the Lieutenants Antonio Jos^ da Cruz and Jose Vicente Pereira Salema went to the Cazembe's house, opened the compound-fence and passed in review the king's myes, saying to each other which was good, which each would 'tmoose, and so on. This coming to the Cazembe's ears, he was greatly offended at the insult, and moreover he referred to the Lieutenant having formerly paid court to one of his women when, being in the old palace, lie had gone tofly a kjte. He would Aave let the officer know the extent oilEswrath, but he was prevented by his mother.* 13th. — The Cazembe sent to me, as Commandant, many com plaints and threats, which were received by Gonpalo Caetano Pereira. My people deputed Jose Thomaz Gomes with a forged message that the Cazembe complained of the soldiers and the slaves (Cheundas) taking whatever they wanted on the roads, and that Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, being too ill to bring ethe message, had sent him (J. Thomaz) to request me that such actions might be forbidden by beat of drum. I at that time ignored the Cazembe's true message, which was, " Great had been the audacity of the whites (Muzungos) in casting their eyes and desires upon his wives, when there were many women — of whom they had had the best — in his lands. They must know him to be a tiger that carried ruin and devas tation in his train, and that iit would cost him little to prove to them the truth of his words." I sent to Josd Thomaz Gomes, ordering each officer and white man rigorously to prohibit his soldiers and slaves (Cheundas) from all such thieving, and showing them the danger of insulting the Cazembe, who deserved all our attentions, not only for his favours, but also because he was a powerful king, upon whom our well-beino- depended. lAth-16th. — The Cazembe sending a messenger to me, I asked why the master did not permit me to see him : he replied that the king was waiting for the porters to bring some presents for me. I answered that from a friend this proceeding was not -n 1, S-'^'ilMf ^^^ ^^^ y ^^^ °®°^'>''' """'lier of the king. So when I visited Dahome, Mr. Hilton a d^ken "chattel" attached to the missionaries, and, I need hardly say, a Mulatfo, attempted to break into the kmg's seraglio. Gelele behaved very well in the iKatter, merely sending to inform me that if the man had not been ot my party he would have taken off his head. Chap. V. T^TE-l-T^TE WITH THE CAZEMBE. 141 wanted: he rejoined that it was necessary, and that the king^ could not dismiss me empty-handed.* 17th-19th. — I reminded the Cazembe of his promise, and he said that he would summon me on the morrow. 20th-23rd. — I was kindly and pleasantly received by the Cazembe, who on this day had hardly one of his servants present as interpreter.t After compliments he anticipated me on the subject of my departure. I presented to him the soldiers who would remain behind us to proceed to Angola. He saw and ap proved of them, promising to forward them. This-day he ap pointed one of his young domestics to accompany me to Mozam bique, and to learn " Mainato." o^^^^ washing. They ignore this art, and during our stay "they had learned to wash coarse cottons (" Maxilas de Gondo "), very roughly made with wooden looms by the Caffres of Sena, and a few at Tete ; to bathe themselves often with water and to anoint the head and body with a little oil in sign of spruceness. Finally, after impressing upon me that he ardently desired communication with us, and that he had taken much trouble to facilitate it, he dismissed me with great signs of satisfaction. 2ith-28th. — From a slave of Catara I ascertained that the two ivories presented in the name of the Cazembe when his mission visited Tete in 1798, had been intended by him tot buy stone-ware, beads (pedras), and other things required. The chiefs of the troops, malignantly encouraged by their officers, came to demand pay, though the receiver's department had only 100 cloths in stuff and 50 in porcelain beads (velorio) t to ration the slaves whom the Cazembe might send by way of crown- presents (Mirambo). I replied that the subject should be con sidered. 29thr-30th. — The party against me sent Jose Thomaz Gomes da Silva to inform me that they intended shortly to leave for Tete, and that Jose Rodrigues Caleja desired to know my intentions touching the five scores (corjas) § of cloth remaining in the Receiver's department. The deputy, when asked if he came to require cong6, replying in the negative, I told him that the matter should be referred to the Cazembe. Caleja's I* This is the usual manceuvre of African kings before they " give pass " or dismiss their visitors. Having no return presents, or not -wishing to offer any thing, t.bev waatf- t.bp. pj}.tience of their guest with a hundred delays, till, however greedv..h.e de-parts in despair. " " -—• — "^-— >— -" --_-. — - "^"^''Tne fewer people present, the more friendly, of course, is tbe interview. X As has been said, the pano (" panno," pague, tobe), or luiityof t-wo fathoms of cotton cloth, in 1^2woHF6dj^j^used_toexpres3 other values, eyehoflBS^K. " § 1 presume fBlS to beTne'Hindostani worcP-a'sooire^'frbm "koiL" 'Il"is used in Zanzibar (' Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,' vol. jffl^, p. 446). 142 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. question I treated as a joke. The Cazembe, to whom the white men's project was immediately reported, declared that he would at once give us the road. July Ist^lOth. — The party came in a mob, declaring their intention to depart, as the Cazembe was causing delay. I replied that everything possible had been doue, and that the king had sent Xirdros (Shire men) to collect their fellow country-folk, whom he had long ago despatched for the purpose of recovering the annual taxes of his lands. They insisted on setting out, having heard, probably from their untrustworthy slaves, that the -Cazembe intended to keep us for another year. I know not how they persuaded themselves so ; they ought to have known that their actions had made them a trouble to the Cazembe's subjects and an object of distrust to himself. Possibly the king may have delayed us toseeffour means were exbajisted, but this was their fault for having charged Lieutenant-Colonel 'Pedro Nolasco and myself with keeping back goods. I promised to report the matter to the Cazembe, and when they retired I prepared to do so by means of one of my servants. I had hardly instructed the latter when Captain Joao' da Cunha Pereira and Lieutenant Jose Vicente Pereira Salema, retracing their steps, informed me that on the morrow they would set out for Tete. I told them to act as they thought proper, my authority as Commandant having long ago been set aside by them. My messenger went to the Cazembe, who said that the whites might go when they pleased, and that his object in keeping them was to dismiss them satisfied, and not ill-disposed towards him, so as to prevent others visiting him. The whites were somewhat appeased by the royal reply, which was duly communicated to them. Some resolved not to go without me, but Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, in his pride, determined to start, inducing the troops to escort him. As they would not move, he committed to them all their rations ; whereas I, seeing the negligence of the men, had kept back the stores for distribution on the day of departure, intending to explain to the poor fellows tha,.sufferings which would •result from the wilful waste of their only subsis!enSB~ft>r-the- journey. ——— "———'--«-""¦ -™" -~— —..-,. ...^,... ,, ... nth. — Effectually Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira set out, leaving his soldiers and quarters, and thus constituting himself a deserter. When the Cazembe heard of the departure, he sent me the present («usaio|)o) for Her Most Faithful Majesty, adding that it was a token of gratitude for the favours conferred upon him, and that his devoir being now done, he gave his pass ; he added, however, that the opening of the Angola road must be reserved for our return. Chap. V. THE FUMO ANCEVA. 143 I assembled the whites, who were surprised at the sight of the present, much expected on account of the promises and the spirit of the Cazembe. It would have been more consider able, but for the indiscretion of the Captain Joao da Cunha Pereira, who had left without even an adieu to the king. I received it in trouble of mind, and, whilst thinking what to say, the party told the Fumo Anceva., who escorted it, that there was no return gift for the presents which had been intended for the Muropue and the Muenebuto, but which the Cazembe had appropriated. Jos6 Rodrigues Caleja was directed to buy hides, and to make handcuffs for the thirty slaves of the royal gift (mirambo), and for the four others received by Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos, and committed to him. Moreover, I directed that this gang should be placed under sentinels. He hastened to say that he had resolved to distribute the slaves amongst the soldiers, and that for every head lost three-score cloths would be charged. I asked how in this way the men could guard the Crown slaves, when they did not even prevent their own property from^ escaping in numbers. To this objection he made no reply. I allowed him to take his own way, because it was clear that he would not obey me, or that, if compelled, he would cause desertion, to render me responsible. The Fumo Anceva departed with his message, and Jose Rodrigues Caleja collected the several items of the . present. I directed an account of it to be drawn up, and when he refused to sign, I caused it to be attested by all the others present. 12th. — At 8 A.M. the Fumo Anceva appeared with the return gifts to the presents intended for the Muropiie and the Muene buto. Whilst I ordered them to be received, every one gave his opinion touching their smallness, and the worthlessness of the former largesse. I represented to them that these words would not only faff to increase the presents, but might prevent the soldiers going to Angola. Jose Rodrigues Caleja hastened to say that the mission could not take place, as these men intended to foUow the steps of the Expedition as soon as ever it turned towards Tete. I asked him why he had not reported this, knowing that, in our impossibility to carry out the other projects of the late Governor, this mission was the only duty of which we could acquit ourselves. He was silenced by the shame of finding himself either an impostor or the persorf' determined to frustrate our principal object. Convinced that the soldier Paulo da Silva was not capable of the intention attributed to him, I proposed to inquire concerning the second man to be sent, namely, Caetano da Costa. Finally, Jose 144 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. Rodrigues Caleja received the present, refusing to attest the account, and the Fumo Anceva retired, complaining that he had not received his "urne." * 13th. — Caetano da Costa, the soldier, when summoned before me, and asked concerning Jose Rodrigues Caleja's assertion, declared that it was false, and challenged the strictest inquiry. I knew, however, that no one would assist in it. From passages in this Diary it may be judged whether Caleja had or had not opposed the mission to Angola. As the slaves of the two royal gifts were not enough to carry the Crown loads, I directed Lieutenant Antonio Jos6 da Cruz, who had the distribution of the slave personnel of the Expedition, to set apart for my hammock twenty Caffres, and to supply those necessary to Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos and to Jose Thomaz Gomes. The two latter, like myself, had been carried by the slaves of the Expedition, not by their own. I had ordered the gang of D. Francisca, who at her own discomfort supplied many hands, to carry the loads of their mistress and the property of the late Governor. This was a cause of spite to the Receiver, Jose Rodrigues Caleja, because it prevented his revenging himself upon the Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco, in whose charge these properties were, by taking away his porters. The Caffres were duly supplied to Lieu tenant Manoel dos Santos and to Jose Thomaz Gomes. By Jose Rodrigues Caleja's authority I remained without one, being sentenced either to walk 270 leagues, or to take from the Lieu tenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco ten Caffres whom he had brought from Tete expressly for his own conveyance. 15^^-16^^. — The Cazembe applied to us for powder, sending a slave as " dash." I despatched a keg, intended by the late Governor as a present to the king, who returned, by way of "mouth," another slave. Thereupon the Fumo Anceva declared that his master wished two soldiers to remain, and to escort the remittances, which, after the winter (rainy season), would be sent to Tete. The minister did not fail to show that he had been egged on to make such a requisition. 17th. — Jose Rodrigues Caleja and his followers called at my quarters, wishing us to go for our " pass " to the Cazembe. My reply was, that I had not been summoned. He rejoined, that the Fumo Anceva had specified me. I objected, that the Fumo might have given me the news, if true, and that they could go without me. He persisted that my presence A\as indispensable, to settle about the Angola mission and the Cazembe's escort. * This word, from its context, means the " vails " usually given to those who carry presents. Chap. V. INTRIGUES OP J0Sl5 EODRIGUES CALEJA. 145 When I asked him if that was his affair, he protested against the evil which delay might inflict upon the Royal treasury. I dechned to accept his protest, and reminded him that I was his superior. He refused to recognise me as such, and added asser tions which convinced me that the Fumo Anceva 's requisition for two soldiers had arisen from an intrigue of Jose Rodrigue.f ' Caleja. He had intended, if I consented, to accuse me of having left the men for my own interest in the Cazembe's remittances >¦ or, if I refused, to frustrate thereby the mission to Angola, by annoying the king with such rejection of his last request. In I this apjuparpd the white hand ; the Caffres never remember to alter, or to change the resolutions of those engaged in business with them. Resolving to make an example of Jose Rodrigues Caleja, I prepared to issue, as authorized by my position of commander of a royal expedition, part of whose duty it was to punish rebels for the good of the Crown service, an order to the following purport : That Jose Rodrigues Caleja, who had committed a similar offence at Manipa in 1788, should, as chief mutineer and rebel of the party, be arrested by Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos, and held until the charge bejlaid before the Royal pre sence. I did not, however, publish it at once, hoping by threats to gain my object. 18th and 19th. — As my efforts were in vain, I issued the above order against Jose Rodrigues Caleja, as was certified by Lieu tenant Manoel dos Santos. His obstinacy was such that he would not yield himself to arrest, unless I could prove the faults of which he was accused. He thought easily to get over this disobedience, adding the words, that the Commandant had incurred criminality for having in that same order origi nated the said intrigues ; and he compelled me not to publish either the order or the signature of the executive officer to whom^ it had been submitted. Nothing remaining for me but to yield, I left the man to himself. On the same day, Lieutenant Antonio Jose da Cruz, commanding the troops, issued an order that no one should obey my commands unless sent through him.* This was because I had summoned in a hurry two soldiers to stay at my huts, whilst he, the officer, was away, assisting at the resignation of the Receiver's department, which he expected to result from my orders for the arrest of Jose Rodrigues Caleja. What, then, could I do, m any case like what happened on the 3rd of June,* when there was no regular service in the bush • and he. the officer, was always sioklyhfiT^ ^a,r|<.^ f^^ duty, and never in n^Itn, except for his pleasures? From'that day I * The occasion of a fight between the soldiers and Muizas. L 146 FE. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. V. never passed an easy night: the excitement in the camp (mussassa) compelled me to be ever ready and to sleep with loaded weapons by my side. 20^^. — To weaken Jose Rodrigues Caleja's party, I allowed Lieutenant Manoel dos Santos and Jose Thomaz Gomes to go forward, and to await us in the lands of the Maraves. Each received for rations a quantity of blue cottons with 200 cloths, on condition of returning into store all that exceeded their wants. 21s^. — ^The troops went to take leave of the Cazembe, who delivered to the lieutenant commanding a tabaret or low stool (hytanda) covered with leopard skin, as a gift to the Crown. All having been received with apparent kindness, they fired their salutes and retired. ( 147 ) CHAPTER VL The Eetubn Maboh — the Attack — and the Flight. July 22nd. — The troops went off this day with my leave. They were charged with the Crown slaves, chained in twos, threes, or fours, to each soldier, and I had no responsible party to answer for the slaves and their loads. The cloth and porcelain beads (velorio) for the rations being in the hands of Jose Rodrigues Caleja, who was preparing to set out without my permission, as he frequently did, I could not refuse to dismiss men and officers under pain of risking the robbery of the ivory and other royal effects, which that person was to convey to Tete. After his departure, I conceived great hopes of succeeding in the mis sion to Angola, which had been stopped by the message of the Fumo Anceva on the 11th instant. I went for my pass to the Cazembe, who had appointed me to come on that day ; and, being well received, I introduced the subject. He undertook to forward the two soldiers, after pretending not to understand me — a difficulty easily overcome as his brother (nephew ?) the Sana Muropue, served me as linguist in the absence of Fumo Anceva. The latter had not come, and the opposer of all my projects — Jose Rodrigues Caleja — had departed. He reminded me of my promise to send him from Mozambique sundry " good (pretty) things," and I hastened to repeat it. On his part he undertook to open a communication with me through his lands to the Mozambique, appointing for this ser vice his merchant, Chinhimba, whom he would take from Gonpalo Caetano Pereira. Seeing that he wished to retire, I thanked him in the name of Her Most Faithful Majesty for the manner in which he had ^ ;gnig£tai«ed-the Expedition. I added that, as his friend, I was grateful to him for his good offices. He received my compli ments with kuidness ; his courtiers joined in the applause probably on account of the parting-gift, which was presented to me, and the visit ended with mutual protestations of friend ship. The King, after receiving my return present, gave to his grandees a feast of Pombe, which had been interrupted for some days, and ordered drums and marimbas to be played, as a sign of joy, that he was delivered of Messrs. Jose Rodrigues Caleja and Co. I at once gave leave to Gonpalo Caetano L 2 148 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. VI, Pereira and V^asco Joaquim Pires, who, with Manoel Caetano Pereira, set out for Tete on the next day 23rd. — The three persons above mentioned left for Tete. 24:th-26th. — I started with the Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco en route for "Chungu," the.glii. court, Jp_eilmme-fche.JiDnfis»«f ^e late Governor, which the„Qa?effi^A. contrary to Caffre culfcfui; allowed him to do.* Thence we were to march upon ¦ Tete. The Caffres of the Expedition having refused to carry me, I begged Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco to lend me nine M the slaves of D. Francisca, settling that their loads should be committed to my wild Caffres,t wbo_'^lked jn neck chains. As the acme of toil and trouble my Caffres were obliged to^onvey the ration-cloth for the expedition. I kept it by me in order that the troops might assist me on the road. We reached Chungu at 2 p.m., disinterred the bones, and halted there with the intention of marching the next day.| 27th.— 'We marched from Chungu to a new village of the Sana Muropue, there to await the Fumo Anceva, our escort to the frontier of the Cazembe's kingdom. 28th. — The Fumo Anceva joined me, but several Caffres of the party being wanting, we could not advance. 29^^. — We left the village of the Sana Muropue, and presently reached, at 3 p.m., the hillock station (o lugar dos outeirinhos), ac companied by the Fumo Anceva, who thought it the best place for halting. This day we passed by the viUage of a Muranda Caffre, when our soldiers began to rob poultry: the people, though they took up arms and wished to revenge themselves, suffered this outrage in cold blood, remembering that the Cazembe had ever treated white men well. July 30th to August 3rd. — The Caffres not arriving, we marched from the hillocks to the village of the Muenempanda, there to- await them. Aug. ith-6th.—'We ar]i£eiaUhe,pl^cerfJii£jJaa£nempanda^^ where he was (mussassado), and hutted (abarracado) in the husli,' hunting after the country-fashion"ftfiat is to say,"digging narrow ^pitfalls, and covering them with dry grass, for catching careless game. They have running hunts as well, killing wild beasts of pasture with arrows, javelins, and spears. We also made our camp (mussassa) in the jungle, at some distance from that of the Muenempanda. 4. . f * In Monteiro and Gamitto's days they still showed the cenotaph of th^ i Geral, as the ujifai^iwaiBjjaseUgrwuscalled at Limda. t " Cafres hurras," a misprint for' X I need hardly say that the Commandant, thus marching last, occupied the place of danger, especially in a caravan leaving the country. Moreover, he reck lessly exposed himself to the mtrigues of his enemies, the whites who had pre ceded him ; and thus he rendered himself responsible for all their actions. Chap. VL CONGRATULATIONS PROM^THE MUENEMPANDA. 149 7th. — The Muenempanda sent to congratulate us with his compliments upon our arriving at his estate ; he had received*^ an order from his king and lord, the Cazembe, to supply us with refreshments and provisions ; he purposed punctually so to do, and if we passed by another road, he must forward them by carriers. 8th and 9th. — We received a present of fresh and dried meat, sweet potatoes, and pombe-beer, and we were invited to the camp (mussassa), for which we returned thanks. loth. — As I had no extra cloth for "mouths," the Lieut.- Colonel Pedro Nolasco went alone to the Camado (house ?), bearing my excuses. nth and 12th. — There were still wanting sundry Caffres who intended to make Tete with us, some carrying ivories, others to receive the returns of their masters' presents. Yet, to avoid the three forest marches between us and the populated part, where we could buy provisions, we took leave of the Muene mpanda by messengers, and we set out, leaving the Fumo Anceva to follow us. 13th-15th. — At 9 A.M. we met a Caffre of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira journeying spliis. This man told us that Jose Rodri gues Caleja, having caused a disturbance in the village of ¦" Muilachiutu," had been robbed with his companions, whom he had lost when flying from the Muizas. The villagers had wounded one of the party, and had attempted to slay him, the ^ informant. 16th-18th. — After five days of good marching, we reached, at 9 A.M., the village of Muilachiutu ; here we heard of the excesses of Jose Rodrigues Caleja, and the run which the Caffres had given him. We halted a day and a-half to buy food. 19th. — Arrived the Muizas, whom the Fumo Anceva had hurried on with a message that we must await him in the village of Chipoco. There he had ordered rations to be prepared, since in our present place we should not be able to collect a sufficient quantity, which indeed we had ascertained. 20th. — We reached at noon the village of Chirandu, seeking rations, which were now wanted. 21st-23rd. — After spending two days in collecting a suf ficiency of provisions, Avhich were very dear, we set out for Ohiliamono. 24i/i. — We arrived at the village of Chiliamono, whom we met on the road as he was going to meet the Fumo Anceva. Here we bought some food, of which we had but little. Hunger now began to force its way into camp. 25th and 26th. — We marched to a large village, Chiliapaco, at which the Fumo Anceva told us to await him ; and there we 150 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL. Chap. VI. found the senior guide, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who had halted his party to join us. I sent to the Fumo Anceva a small present, which did not satisfy him, b];j|,^^^;my .Tpeans now^forbade my being a^_^e9ifc.jian. Gonpalo Caetano Pereira also 'recounted to^me how he had been obliged to run in consequence of Jose Rodri gues Caleja's affair. 27^7i and 28th. — To lighten my load, I sent to Gonpalo Caetano Pereira two hundred cloths for the necessary expenses, and also for the support of the soldiers, who, deserted by their officers, were straggling in the bush. He returned me a receipt. 29^A.r— From Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and Vasco Joaquim Pires I heard that Jose Rodrigues Caleja was marching so fast, that he would not trouble himself with the sick slaves of the Crown, and that whenever one could not walk his head* was cut off.* "~~~" "TliB Muizas are always drunk, and none more so than the Fumo, who sent to ask me why, having stayed there long enough, I did not leave his village. I replied that we were in my friend the Cazembe's country, buying provisions, and that we should await the Fumo Anceva, who was directed by his king to escort us to the Zambeze (Chambeze) River. I sent this reply [because these Muizas are insolent, treacherous, and timid, and when haughtily treated they become at once disheartened. In fact they are such that a few days ago they strangled their Fumo. August 30th to September 1st. — Hearing that the Fumo Anceva had reached the village of Chirando, where the rebel Muizas would not receive him nor allow him to pass, I sent bearers to urge him on, saying, that on account of his long delay we wanted to take leave of him, to march on without his escort. I bade him not to fear the Muizas, as we could defend him when he joined our party, and afterwards that he could travel through the bush, avoiding villages. September 2nd-5th. — After four days, our party returned with the reply of the Fumo Anceva, who held himself dismissed, as he could not move forwards, and who, having reported all to his master, must there await the royal orders.f I did not want to advance without informing the Fumo Anceva, for fear of offending him and his king, as the success of the Angolan mission might depend upon .tiiis.fX Sr * This' is a vile African Vactice, done simply on the dog-in-the-manger principle. \ .t' It is hardly necessary to sayft^t the Mfumo had uever intended to go an inch further. \ X A very simple-minded ecclesiastic l\ Chap. VI. REACH THE NOETHEEN ZAMBEZE EIVER. 151 6th-7th. — Leaving Chipaco, we halted at the fii-st village, Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco's illness having increased. 8thr-9th. — Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, not wishing to delay any longer, departed with his party, intending to await us at the Zambeze (Chambeze) River. 10^^16^^. — Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco being a little better, we marched upon Munglue, intending to remain there a few days, taking rest and collecting rations. 17th. — When about to leave our nighting place, the Muiza villagers opposed our going, wishing us to halt for a day, and to buy their provisions, which were at double the price for which they sold them to us on the up-march. As we did not assent, they threatened us with attack. I resolutely replied that we were ready for war or for peace, that if they wanted to fight, they must look sharp, as we could lose no time in their lands. Hearing this, they gave up their plans of intimidation, and we continued our march. 18^^. — At 11 A.M. we reached the banks of the Luenna River, which was full and unfordable. When canoes were found, the Caffres asked large sums for ferrying us across, and though we tried to persuade them that we had no other cloths but what we offered, they declared that I and my companion were the only ones who possessed a large quantity, and that Gonpalo Caetano Pereira had been allowed passage with many ivorieST because they held him to be a mere trader, and the agent of the late governor — and so indeed Jose Rodrigues Caleja and the rest of the whites had assured them. Seeing that the Caffres had made up their minds, and fearing the machinations of that bad man, I had no remedy but to satisfy them ; after which they did not neglect to beg from time to time. 19th. — At 10 A.M. we reached the Zambeze (Chambeze) River, which was not fordable, as before. We were, therefore, obliged to bargain for canoes, and the Caffres kept us till 3 p.m. We were obliged to give up to them all our rernaining cloth, copper, and ".calaim," our beads, copper bracelets (manilhas).* and ivory. Even tJien, they at times objected to worE^demand- ing new pay for persons and loads. This insolence lasted for some time, so that part of the Expedition was on this side and part on that side of the river, which inyoluntary^diYk greatly aided their extortioniug.t In fKe clead "of " t'lienightj {nose on if * These are the " Manillas " of the West African Coast, especially of the Oil y-R.ivp.rg -nrherp. tbijj; tv,o||i,^:hp. fwfjn j^f siqall ^ jiorsg^l^ggg. Such "bangles" appear to f lig.T7f| heer), ImQ-wn to all prijmtive pipipfa — — — . . I t I well remember the same happening to me on the Malagarazi Eiver, when I returning from the Tanganyilta Lake. 152 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF/rra;««roURNAL. Chap. VL the right bank were attacked by kidnappers, but they fled when discovered by our people, who pursued them. 20;^A. — -A little more velorio-beads brought over the rest of the loads, and we at once set out for the place where Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and his party were halted. 21st. — Wishing to ration in this place, we found the Muizas so insufferable with their " palavers " (milandos), and other im pertinences, that some voted to leave them : but it was agreed lo night here. 2^2nd. — We advanced, and I resolved to halt at the foot of a little village. Here, died Yasco Joaquim PireSj who, a^, J-J^' ¦ cpu^tgd ¦-Q.^-Februarl^li^^ "mass. AJjihroigiiZ^ sickThisdeatiri^^^^t "expected, and he'lvas]^ therefore.. _not sacramg^eHTwithouF' affecfiiYg the inifaculous, I may term it It^ palpable judgment of God, for despising those "mysteries. To avoid "palaver^" Avith the natives, his body was secretly buried in the bush. 23rd and 24 th. — We arrived at the Munglue village, which we had been earnestly making since the 16th instant. 25th-28th. — We allowed two days to rest our footsore people, to ration, and to refresh ourselves with cows' milk, which was plentiful ; we drank it now soured_ (corta.do). n o w fi re-wpr jn ed . but ^verwit^£]jtjugarj whichhaSTong run out. The provisions wereoCearfapparentlyJhe^MmzasJiad passed _pnM;he word to [?starvgjgg. They were envious of" our ivorv and slaves, and thev looked upon us as their rivals in the trade Here begins a regular system of;,blackmail * (chipatas), and Goncalo Caetano Pereira, having nnished nis cloth, gave a small slave-girl. 29th. — From Munglue we repaired to the Masungure village, seeking rations. Sept. 30th to Oct. 1st. — We reached a Muiza village, which we were obliged to pass. TJiesavages began to snatch from our ^affres' hands what^Aey co^S'taJie quickly and coiild readily \ ca^ry off : they also seized two hoes (enchadas) and a large knife, the work of the Cazembe's people (Murundas), and, being drunk, refused to return the plunder. As it was already late, we went to pass the night at a village hard by, where, provisions being scarce, we were obliged to treat for them with our insulters. October 2nd. — But little food appeared, and that little ex tremely dear. As we sighed for the next day's march came Condua, the brother of Chinhimba, who, finding the day too far gone, promised to procure us restitution on the morrow. 3rd. — In want of provisions we advanced, whilst Gonpalo * Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 58) say "Chipata ou Salvo-condueto." Chap. VL ATTACKED BY THE MUIZAS. 153 Caetano Pereira, who remained behind, recovered the two hoes, but not the knife. After a short distance we reached a village, where they robbed us of two other hoes and a tusk. They also wounded a Caffre with a poisoned arrow : the Muiza poison is so virulent that it spreads over the body, and after a few days' causes death, if the arrow be not carefully removed, ancl.if.iL. counter-poison, which prudent Caffres always cari'X...Qifl-.'-suGh ¦ .jlouineys, .he. Jiat "applied. At tl"!?!""'SighT"l5r'oiJr slave's blood there was great confusion ; some desired a prompt vengeance, others, terrified, wanted to escape dangers exaggerated, by) ijn|,gin.aktion. I hastened to see what was the matter, and at once the Muizas collecting, pointed their arrows at us for intimidation. When asked why we were insulted,.they replied hardily that they had done so because they liked to do it, as we •^vere passing through-theuJands. .and that if we wanted war we Saa-^^tBija^eHbegiB-^— they were ready. Our''rQen''l'6"plied that they were travelling peaceably, but that if attacked they would defend themselves. The Muizas at once began to throw hard clods instead of stones, ours replied, and all the women fled the village. The carriers, standing in a body fifty paces off, grounded their loads to see the end of the affair, which began to be vigorous. Whilst I was trying to stop this stone-play, waiting for Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who had remained behind, a Muiza, with great assiduity and diligence, threw at me a succession of clods. Seeing no hope, I discharged a gun at him, but missed. Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco, who was near, also fired with the same consequence. Hearing the sound of shots, and the confused noise of combat, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, whom we were waiting for — he would assuredly have been lost if cut off from us — hastened up. Meeting in his path a crowd of the enemy, he pointed his gun, which somewhat frightened them. As, however, they continued their war dance, and he would not fire, one of his Caffres discharged a blunderbuss which was ready, and mortally wounded in the side a Muiza, vV^fcm he afterwards found to be the son of the village Fumo.* '^ The terrified savages opened the road to Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who at once joined us. We held a council, knowing that we could no longer travel in quiet through the tribe, who are a united people. At the time appeared two of the enemy, making signs that they came to speak with us, and praying not to be maltreated. On our promise they approached, and begged a medicine to * How remarkably this alventure resembles the accident which stopped Paul du Chaillu in 1864. 154 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. VL extract the slu^ (zagalotes) with which the Fumo's son had been woundeS^ We asked why they had molested peaceful travellers ; they put the blame upon their drink.* This excuse did not satisfy us. We said that if their Fumo's son was wounded, the same had happened to two of our slaves, who were brought forward, and we refused the medicine required to withdraw what had entered into the body, as they expressed themselves. They retired discontented, and their companions, seeing this, threatened us from afar. Our slaves, and the six soldiers of the party, chased them to their houses, where a third Checunda was wounded. This brought on another skirmish, and our men ^sacked the now well-nigh deserted village. I and Lieutenant- Colonel Pedro Nolasco, wished to go in person, collect provi sions, and burn down the place, hoping thus to terrify the Muizas, and to recover the respect for the name of white man (Muzungu) which Jos6 Rodrigues Caleja had lost. Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, however, would by no means consent to such a proceeding. We marched to a neighbouring place where there was water, intending to rest the people, and to continue our journey in the afternoon. Gonpalo Caetano Pereira found a Muiza of the village of Mucunjure, the lord of these lands, and sent him to inform his master of what had happened, forwarding a small tusk, by way of " mouth." Having dined, we advanced in our usual order, but with the precaution of being preceded by a few musketeers. After a short march we heard a disturbance ahead. All stopped, and I, going forward, found that Manoel Caetano Pereira, who was with the soldiers in the van, had been treacherously wounded by an ambushed Muiza.t The soldiers hastened forwards; unhappily their muskets missed fire, and thus the savages retired safely. The wound proved not dan gerous, and was easily cured ; the arrow-head had struck against a bone, and thus the poison was not diffused. The Caffre of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who, in firing the blunderbuss, had rendered his right hand useless, being braver and more judicious than the rest, proposed returning to raze the offending villages to the ground. 1 also approved of this, but Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who, reasonably enough, counted upon having to see the (Fumo's) wounded son, and thus to * This may be true : Africans, like the American indigenes, are almost always dangerous during a carouse. But the "Commandant" did wrong, I mean unwisely, in refusing the medicine. f Had the medicine been given, perhaps this would not have happened. Of course the friends of the wounded savage rushed ou ahead, and, knowing the country better than the caravan, succeeded in revenging themselves. Chap. VL RENEWED HOSTILITY OF THE MUIZAS. 155 pacify Mucunjure, would not agree to this. He was the better obeyed on account-x£Jiia--baMaot>-ma.uy.j3la.ves: we, therefore,^ necessarily following his advice, continued the march, and* arrived without accident at the halting-place (Daro). Here we at once received a reply from Mucunjure, who sent to Gonpalo Caetano Pereira that the latter, although the people of the village maltreated us without right, had done badly in wounding the Fumo's son.* Gonpalo Caetano Pereira replied that the Muizas having attacked us without a cause, we at last fired upon them. With this new message we despatched an ivory, by way . of blackmail. Mucunjure thought it too little ; never theless, he sent to say that on the morrow he would hear the whites, and if they were in the right he would punish the Muizas. Another tusk was sent to him, but as it did not come up to his wisl;ies, bi=».jr-ep.eijefl fl..mppe.r ba,r, which proved .gaJisfadftry. He sent to say that on the next day he"~would ' supply us with a guide to a certain place, where we would be able to buy provisions at will. Meanwhile midnight had passed. Another Caffre of Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who had been sent to the Fumo, shrewdly suspecting from certain expressions, and from the preparations which he saw, that the people intended to attack us, reported it to his master. The latter, being under the idea that all the Caffres respected him as the- Head White Man, and convinced by the Fumo's words, not only disbeheved his Caffres, but also the more to ridicule and vilify his informant, did not communicate to me the man's suspicions, < which I should have examined with all circumspection.! 4i^.— Preparing early for the march, we awaited the pro mised guide till 7 a.m. As he did not appear, and the sun waxed warm, we set out for the place where we expected to buy food, not having any for that day. Suspecting no evil from the Fumo, we looked forward to meeting his guide upon the road, in which, indeed, he failed us, the better to carry out the treachery meditated by him. Presently appeared four Caffres, saying that they were sent by the Fumo to conduct us ; whilst giving this pretended message, crowds of Muizas issued from their ambush, attacked us when they saw no guns, and seizing q, ohflin-gang (gfl.rgp.lhfijm) ."^-"^g^-Q-^^-P^^'ST^ed them into tne bush, without allowing them to drop their loads. * Africans, like the Bedawin of Arabia, make a great difference between com paratively harmless and mortal weapons. The Muizas were throwing only clods or stones, but the slave fired a gun, and this in the savage mmd justifies a senousJ ai&ay. t So it is that the oldest African travellers are sometimes taken unawares by tb& Jnconsequence of the cbild'giEe'nagJ'SSr"'^"" *'-"" ^ * 4 156 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OP THE JOUENAL. Chap. VL Our slaves, terrified by the war-drum, fell into confusion, but soon recovered themselves enough to rob all our stuffs, which "they carried in their " quitundos." * These are baskets in bandbox shape, made of scraped and thinned wood. I thus lost all my clean clothing (aceio), and what remained of my pro visions : the only thing that could be saved was a box contain ing some shirts, which the plunderers had either forgotten, or had not yet touched, seeing me walk towards it. Withal, caring little for the loss thus inflicted upon me, I hurried up in the hope of saving my papers. Finding them scattered over the ground, my grief and disgust were such, that, forgetting danger and death, I busied myself in recovering them. Amongst these last were the order for Jose Rodrigues Caleja's arrest, with the countersignature of Manoel dos Santos at the foot. When I had collected what I could, my Caffres, who hitherto had not been seen, came up and reported that the Muizas had carried off three of the gang, cutting their neck ropes, which were of leather. I requested them carefully to look after my papers, and the bandboxes containing them. At this moment appeared Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, who told me that he was going off into the bushes to find a path to the Aruangoa River, as he now considered the road throughout the Muiza country closed; and that to march the men freely he would leave behind 600 arrobas ( x 32 = 19,200 lbs.) of ivory, carrying away only the little wanted for the journey. t To raise his courage, I asked him if he intended to abandon his capital without a blow. He said, " Yes," that he was now doing so ; that on all sides nothing could be seen but jMuizas collect ing to surround us ; that if this were once effected we could not escape, but must necessarily perish ; finally, that I also should make ready at once to retire if I would avoid destruction. I communicated Gonpalo Caetano Pereira's determination to Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, and told him to prepare to abandon the property and retreat. Pedro Nolasco, wishing to save his charge, could not makeup his mind. Hurrying about the field, I missed Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and his son, who had departed : this I told to Pedro Nolasco, bidding him to push his work quickly, as we were alone in that place. He did what he could, and he retired, leaving much ivory * These boxes are used throughout Unyamwezi and Africa west of Zanzibar, where they are generally made of tree-bark. The Kisawabih name is Kihndo, in the plural Vilinrlo. J t G. C. Pereira was the only man that " kncAvWhe bush,'' and this action of his may be looked upon as a signal for a general sauve qui pent. Of coui'se nothing could be more prudent, that is to say, more cowardly. Chap. VI. RETIREMENT OF THE MUIZAS. 157 to the Muizas, and the trunks and boxes to the sacking of our slaves, who did not dislike an operation that ended in relieving them of their loads. After marching some fifty paces, I remembered the Archives of the Secretariat, committed by Pedro Nolasco to the slaves of D. Francisca : not hearing what had become of them, I retraced my steps to the place where all remained, armed only with my gun and pistol. I at once found the document-trunk, half broken open by the Caffres, who, finding nothing but papers and books, had abandoned it, taking, only a little volume bound with red silk. I ordered the soldier, Antonio Francisco Delgado, who was still in the neighbour hood, to finish opening it, and I committed to his care a large book, to be brought to me with all the other papers. I then joined Lieutenant-Colonel Pedro Nolasco, who awaited me where I left him. We followed the path taken by Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and his son. After ten paces or so we heard it said that the Muizas were on our traces, which obliged us to hurry. Coming to a rivulet, with water to the waist, I had the sorrow to see myself abandoned, not a Caffre of all who crossed* being willing to carry me over. At last, after many entreaties, two men raised me, but fell with me in the water, wetting my gun, which never left my hand.* Whilst we were in the middle of the stream the Muizas shot their arrows at us, and would have wounded or killed me had not (^f],ji]ig.p a Caffre of Pedro Nolasco, who, being sick, could not keep up with his master, put them to flight by a well- directed shot, wounding one of them. In the first affray and in this second none of our party was hurt, whereas of the Muizas some sixteen suffered from our guns and bows. Although the enemy had retired, we made a forced march. As we were passing a little village, the inhabitants, who knew our misfortunes, fjpt fir<^ to i^. grass, thinking to stop us. ijjt, of warfare continued : it was renewed successively by all the villages near which we travelled, although we had left the road and had buried ourselves in the bush and the grasses. Seeing, a little ahead, a village which appeared deserted, and being in urgent want of food, we halted opposite it, and sent a soldier, with some Caffres, to find if it contained provisions, and, if so, to let us know, that we might advance in a body, help ourselves, and then burn the place.f The soldier, however, [the leather case of his telescope for carry- * Dr. Krapf used his gun-barrels ai ing water to drink. (' Travels,' Aj^)- ¦ leding was only making matters worse. LO asked-th^ imiSS.kffiM'r'-^ii'yiiniLn.SfflSl.i t Of course tliis buccaneer pn minds me of the "nn/l mJaai-nTisirv wb Red Sea, h PI5'aliMil?]?M?3ll!S!*i'!3Sl It re- on the 158 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL. Chap. VL finding pombe beer, proceeded to get drunk, whilst the Caffres packed up a store of provisions in their "^ji]iabiid.Bhort quilt rgodrim),* and pillow-case. 7th.— -We marched without accident, but in hot haste, seeking some village where provisions could be procured. The bush was so sterile that it did not yield a wild fruit. There were signs of game, but the Caffres of Tete, who are most vile and worthless in the bush, preferred hunger to the light work oU hunting. This day, Lieutenant-Colonel Pedi-o Nolasco sup ported me by sharing his breakfast and dinner. To lighten a words^in the text are "len^ol" and "fronhas." 160 PR. PINTO'S CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL. Chap. VL Caffre, who was blaspheming under a camp-bed (barra),* I allowed him to break it up, reserving for bedj;fclothes a sail cloth ; and I already thought of cutting the quilt to pieces. The hammock-bearers let me fall, to see if, by so doing, they could induce me wholly to dispense with their services. 8th. — We struck out with more spirit, having now issued from the unknown bush, and having hit u|ion the road that_ led us to the Cazembe's country. Many slaves ran off to find^ food, thinking that without it we should die, and others were left behind unable to move. At noon we reached the camp (mussassa) of an elephant-hunter ; he had nothing to sell, not even meat, our Caffres, who had preceded |us having secretly bought up the little there was with the c|oth of which they had robbed us on the 4th instant. All this day I had to walk with unn,|tp.r^||^]p |,^)j,|, and Pedro Nolasco again led me, as I had absolutely nothing. , 9th. — Before setting out, I sent off, in different directions, three Caffres, with pieces of the quilt-chintz, to buy food ; I« took this precaution to avoid a repetition of yesterday's affair : with much difficulty we made a start ; weakness rendered the march heavy, especially in my case, having with great labour* to make it on foot. Arrived at the banks of the Aruangoa River, we found vestiges of Mutumbuca f villages, and we sent, our Caffres to buy pro-\dsions, which they always kept for themselves, declaring that none could be found. To escape this cheat, I crossed the river ^d •^jSih^^Z'^^-^ ^IJj^negress for a basket of unshelled groundkiutg (a kind of ilmon3'also1ou"nd In the Erazil)j another and a smaller basket of, nillet-heads (corn-cobs), and a ',^,qjiis.serpj^^(a little vessel yoven with thinned and scraped tree-bark) % of Aground millet iBbfcMS sorghum). With this purchase, I returnea contented to- |ay companions, and distributed to them a small part. As it5 was late, my dinner was raw ground-nuts (mandome crii), which l.was able to beg : Gonpalo Caetano Pereira seeing me present^ offered me, for ceremony, some of his, but it was mt accepted,^ lest %& might feel tne want of it. \ 10^— We advanced with more spirit towards th\ river ford, in orde^^to escape from the country of the Muftas, whose. memory to. us was not grateful. Hardly had we rVacheTTtf wheii we wfere told that Muzaranjja, a certain Mutumbuca* f * What, in the name M goodness, were they doing with a bed? N\ wonder \that the slaves and Caffres refused to carry them. t See Diary of August 20, l'?a,8. X It resembles the quitundo or""kilindi, which I have before described. Chap. VI. PINCHED WITH HUNGER. 161 kinglet, was waiting to plunder us, whilst further on was the Mucanda. The news made us take the precaution of marching down the stream, till we arrived opposite the country of the Sengas,* where we could ford the Aruangoa and march straight upon Tete. This determination was not taken till the Caffres, who were summoned to our council, had agreed to it. Some opined that we ought to leave our actual camping-place at the shortest notice ; but, as it was late, the journey was reserved for the morrow. nth. — Right early we set out, flying from the new danger which seemed imminent and nearest ; this made us hurry the pace still more. In the great confusion of the line of march, sundry slaves fled, and some carried off their loads of ivory. I was borne in my hammock by the extraordinary efforts of Pedro Nolasco, who took pity on the wounded soles of my feet. 12th-13th. — AUsfldy hunger was upon^js, and at each step the Caffres threatened desertion, when Providence threw in our way, at the foot of the road, a freshlv-killed she-buffalo.. By no means would I insinuate that this circumstance was miraculous or mysterious, knowing that Providence is ever •directing its creatures to the ends which it purposes, by ways which we may not comprehend. I have referred to it only to j show the delight with which we hailed the good event of the present march. We ordered the Caffres to cut it up, but they refused, fearing a " Muando," or palaver with the hunter ; and, to prevent our remaining near the buffalo-cow, they pressed us to advance. We persisted in wishing to purchase the game, and at that moment appeared the hunter, who sold it to us in exchange for a negress. It was then divided, and the feast somewhat appeased our people's hunger. 14th. — Having meat but no vegetables, we made for some settlement where we could buy them. After half an hour's march we found one : when, however, we wanted to purchase, a Cafl're came out and told us that his village had notMng for sale, but that on the other side of the river provisions were abundant ; he ended by offering himself as guide. We accepted, and presently we sent him, with our Checundas, to the place referred * According to Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 47) the Syngas live to the east of the Ohevas (Shevas), and near the mouth of the Aruangoa River. Dr. Livingstone {' Second Expedition,' chap. ix. p. 198) says : " The country north of the mountains here in sight from the Zambesi is called Senga, and its inhabitants Asenga or^ Basenga, but all appear to be of the same family as the rest of the Manganja anff Marave." In M. Erbardt's map there amiiiiiCLlihJef.ferriea..Qy.er,the fanciful laks and the northern, or the western, shore is called Ze'nga, answering to the Tseuga of Dr. Livingstone's map. The inhabited island in the Bemba or Bangweolo Lake ¦explains, I have said, part of the " Mombas Mission Map." 162 FR. PINTO'^CONTINUATION OF THE JOUENAL. Chap. VI, to, that they might return and let us know the prices. Mean- ' while the whole party proceeded to procure shelter in the bush, which the dry grass and the small tree-motts or clumps afforded on the river-banks, very distant from that village. Ato p.m. our .^affres returned, saying that they had found plenty of pro- ' visions, for which the owners wanted ivory and slaves. This good news gave us courage, and we reserved our purchases for the next day. 15^A. — Gonpalo Caetano Pereira and Pedro Nolasco sent two- ivories ; I, having none, despatched a pair of slaves, with whom the purchase was speedily effected, whereas the tusks were rejected as r^^i?^^"'^ ('pot ter raxaV We were kept waiting for some time as the grain was not husked, and the Checundas left «¦ Jihings in this state, caring for little beyond their own mvest- ments. Seeing my small store of food gradually disappear, and learing lest that just bought should not come till after a long delay, I sent a third slave and all my rags to be bartered for a supply from another place. Here I tore in strips the only sheet left to me. 16th. — The purchased provisions came ; they did not suffice,^ the cause being the thieving of the buyers ; so I sent to lay in more : at this same time dried flesh of elephants, buffaloes, and ' other wild beasts was bought and exchanged for slaves. , 17th and 18^^. — The Caffre purchasers having returned, _ bringing the provisions, we continued our journey without accident. 19,th. — When about to leave our nighting-place, two Caffre hunters came up, shouting and saying that our people had ^robbed their medicines (mezinhas) and tobacco ; and that if the stolen goods were not retftrnecl, they would maltreat and wound the whole party. Wit|li_suchfhrpata 'hi^,^J^^^-J}S£^'^^^^^I^m^\^. We satisfied the com plainants, there being no other remedy, and we continued our march, seeking a fit place for buying a new store of food. 20!;;i.— At 10-30 F.M.J^i;^jy^,agj33fi§e4njy om encampment, ,aB-jijitlIfiH-- eyerything,4ntp_.]the-..gi-eate8t coSE^wjTwith their terrible, roarings. Though perceiving us, they 'granted us the I immunity of guests, and gTuHmg their feroSWI^Talling a cafflp-^fhunters, they carried of:a Caffre.* 21st-2?jrd. — Having bought provisions, we continued our journey, and at noon we crossed the river, the Caffres being unwilling to march opposite the land of the Sengas, which they ^now found to be fay o^ •^.The next "-GR«pmtfe. Expeditioni!KSsQ-:^*iS''*cI'''"™»i lip"s. Chap. VL THE EXPEDITION BEACHES TETE. 163 24:th. — At 9 A.M. we met a small herd of elephants that opened out, and allowed us free passage. 25th-27th. — Again we found ourselves under the necessity of laying in provisions, and here we resolved to buy up all, Gonpalo Caetano Pereira having met with a village Fumo, who was acquainted with him. 28thr-30th. — The Caffres, knowing all about our journey, studied only the various ways of robbing us : for this purpose, ftKery ridiculous little Fumo demanded his blackmail, or "dasbj' (,Sb$iMta), wiiichjsjpjid only to tj^ gren^ieig'or 'to^EeT^ing. Our men, however, were so down-hearted, that any threat com pelled us to disburse. Oct. 31st and November 1st. — As we passed a village, a Caffre, protesting that we had frightened his herd, and that a bul lock had broken its leg, made a prize of an ivory, and hid it. Gonpalo Caetano Pereira, to whom the tusk belonged, com-^ plained to the Fumo, who promised restitution. Nov. 2nd and 3rd. — The tusk not appearing, and another ha-dng been stolen during the night, we agreed that the Fumo's promise was a deceit, and that he probably had a hand in the plunder. We resolved no longer to wait for his justice, though he pressed us so to do, and, not wishing to lose another tusk in the same way, we set out. 4th-7th. — ^At 11 A.M. we reached the " Bar," or gold dig gings of Jose Victor de Sousa e Vasconcellos, one of the in- . habitants of Tete : we met the owner, who gave us hospitality, and informed us of the safe arrival of that part of the Expedition in which was Jose Rodrigues Caleja with his followers. 8th. — We left the " Bar," and marched towards Marenga. 9thr-13th. — We arrived at Marenga. where Gonpalo Caetano Pereira has his abode and gold diggings, and here we^ halted to rest the people and to lay in stores. 14^^18?;^.— At 8 A.M. we left Marenga for;jTete, and found no provisions in the way, where before they had been abundant and cheap. 19th-22nd. — I took leave of Lieut.-Colonel Pedro Nolasco Vieira de Araujo, who at once started for Tete, and I set out with Gonpalo Caetano Pereira for Bamba, where we dined. I waited till night-fall before entering the Villa de Tete, having a repugnance to appear by daylight without decent^ ecclesiastical attire. Finally, at 6 p.m., I enteredjand met various friends, who congratulated themselves on my return. They had hardly expected it, since Josd Rodrigues Caleja, besides taking away my credit, by depicting me as an'object of public indignation, had assured^them that I should f never be M 2 161 ¦ LETTER OF P. X. VELASCO. Chap. VI. .=een again. He certainly was persuaded that his outrages on the road would suffice to cause my destruction. (Signed) Fbancisco Joao Pinto. LETTER OF THE CHIEF-SERGEANT PEDRO XAVIER VELASCO TO THE HOME GOVERNMENT. "QniLLiMANE, November 14, 1805. "Most Illustrious aniJ Excellent Sik, " I already have had the honour through two channels and on several occa sions of a personal interview with your Excellency. On these occasions I took the opportunity to place before you the part taken by me, under His Excellency the late Governor Dr. Francisco Jose' Maria de Lacerda e Almeida, in the discovery of the African interior, and in undertaking to forward the communication of Angola •with the kingdom of Portugal. This was an enterprise on which he was sent by our Sovereign, and in which he was efSciently seconded by your Excellency. I also reported thecoustant and singular zeal, activity, and honour in the Eoyal service displayed by me during the discovery referred to. Thus only, confiding solely in your Excellency's kindness, can I hope for a word of favour to His Highness the Prince Regent, who, seeing and appreciating my zeal, and knowing how to reward and encourage his faithful vassals, may be pleased to place me under an obligation by showing some proof that my humble services are recognised. " Now, however. Excellency, four years have passed without any notice being taken of those papers, nor do I even know if they have had the fortune to meet yoor kindly regard, a circumstance which has discouraged and depressed me to the utmost. Still, supposing that perhaps my ill fortune may have caused them to be lost on the way by shipwreck, or by their carelessness to whom they were committed for the purpose of being laid before your Excellency, I have again resolved, after taking copies of the papers drawn out in an official form, to submit them to you, hoping that you will be pleased to remember me. On the other side, I see myself compelled to announce to your Excellency that having, in the course of oui- journey, arrived at the kingdom of the King Cazembe (as is proved by the said documents), it was announced to me in the month of October of the current year, by the natives, that the King Cazembe had departed this life, and that his son, after succeeding to the kingdom, had sent to inform me how much he wished and anxiously desired communication with us. In proof of this his sentiment, he favoured me with a present, accompanied by reliable assurances on the part of his messengers that he has also sent to the town of Tete an offering to His Highness and to sundry individuals there. Therefore, prompted by activity in the Eoyal ser-pice, I must say to your Excellency that His High- ness's treasury suffers much by the want of such intercourse, since those roads -which were discovered on the former occasion are now closed. Thus nothing more remains for me to inform your Excellency, except that your extreme goodness and incomparable rectitude may deign to cast upon me a compassionate regard, and support me with the powerful hand of your protection, in favouring what your Excellency better understands concerning my prayer — a favour for which I shall never find expressions capable of conyeyiug a just proof of my grateful heart. " I am, with that respect which I submissively offer to the most excel- J^ lent person of your Excellency, whom God guard for many years, -^ " Of yom- Excellency the most obedient Servant, " Pedko Xaviek Velasco.'' JOUENEY OF THE "POMBEIROS," FROM I AN(^OLA TO THE EIOS DE SENNA (EIYEES OF SENNA). [Translated from the Portuguese, by B. A. Beadle, Esq., Chancellier to the Portuguese Consulate, London.] This Journal is very disconnected, and is manifestly -written by an illiterate man. Some of his phrases are most difficult to under stand : however, I have given great attention to them, and have succeeded in all cases, I believe, in giving his meaning; the original being disjointed, the translation is necessarily the same, to some extent. — Translatok's Note. CONTENTS. A.— ^Despatch from the Captain-General of Angola, Jos^ d'Oliveira Barbosa, dated the 25th of Jan-uary, 1815, enclosing another from the Governor of Tette for the Count das Galveas, dated the 20th of May, 1811, con taining the following documents : — 1st. — Copy of the Route Journal, made by Pedro Joao Baptista. 2nd. — Questions put to the said P. J. Baptista. 3rd. — Copy of the Letter from Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Hono rato da Costa. B, — Despatch from the said Captain-General Jose d'Oliveira Barbosa, with the same date, enclosing copies of the foUo-wing Documents : — 1st. — Letter from F. H. da Costa to the Governor of Tette, dated the 11th of November, 1804 (translated in part A). 2nd. — Route Journal of P. J. Baptista, from the lands of the Muatahianvo to those of the King Cazembe, kept in 1806. 3rd. — Ditto from the Cazembe to Tette in 1811. 4th. — Notes of the days of journey of P. J. Baptista. 5th. — Account or Report of P. J. Baptista, relative to his Journey. C. — Notice of -what passed in the town of Tette between P. J. Baptista, the Governor, and other inhabitants. Written by himself. D. — Declaration of Francisco Honorato da Costa in favour of his Pombeiros (home-born slaves) who effected the Journey.* Legislative documents relating to the Explorations. * (Note in Portuguese.) All these documents are published without the least alteration, either in their orthography or anything else. ( 167 ) (A.) Most Illustrious and Excellent Sir, I have the honour to bring before your worthy notice the letters which were forwarded to me from Tette by the Governor of the Rios de Senna (Rivers of Senna), which came by land, in consequence of the discovery of communication between the two coasts of Eastern and Western Africa, so much desired. And on this occasion are embarked in the frigate 'Principe Dom Pedro' the pombeiros (bondsmen) Pedro Joao Baptista and Amaro Jose, of Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Director of the Fair of Mucary, to whose enterprise and labours is owing tne Jaappy result of this work. They take with them the note-books of the journey, to be presented in the Office of the Secretary of State for this Department, (jrod keep Jour_J^£^igB,ey. St. Paul de Assumppao de Loan3a7"2bth anuary, 1815. To the Most Illustrious and Excellent Marquis d'Aguiar. (Signed) Josk d'Oliveira Baebosa. .Most Illustkxous and Excellent Count das (xalveas. His Royal Highness our Lord the Prince Regent having, in the year 1799, determined to see the opening up of the route from his capital of Angola to these rivers of Senna completed, in i order that his people, both in Western and Eastern Africa, may turn their commerce to more lucrative account than they have yet been able to do ; and also that news may circulate from one coast to the other with greater speed than it could do ( by means of vessels, and having entrusted the opening up of the Eastern side to the late Governor of these rivers, Francisco Jose de Lacerda, and on the Western side to His Excellency Tfii ^"'•HP.ado de Noronha. Captain-General of Angola, the latter /committing it to Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Commander of the Fair of Casange, it so happened that thej* former (Lacerda) died in the Cazembe's country, whilst the latter , (Da Costa), by means of his slaves, succeeded in opening up th^ Avestern road as far as the same point. These slaves, however, have been for five years at that place, without the means of reaching this town to give the above information. Observing this place to be somewhat destitute of trade, through the bad understanding that has existed with several of the petty kings surrounding it, and desiring by some means to extend its trade, I invited to my residential quarters, in May 1810, Gonpalo 168 DESPATCHES OF J. D'O. BARBOSA. Caetano Pereira, an aged man, and one experienced in these inner parts. Conversing with him about the extension I wished -ibis captaincy to acquire in its commerce, I asked him to point out to me some place to which our traffic could be sent. He replied that formerly the subjects of the King Cazembe fre quented this town, but that from the time when we attempted the opening up of communications with those interior places, ^they had ceased to come, and he said he did not know the reason of it. Some declared it was in consequence of the disorders our people created in the (lands of the) said Cazembe after the death of Governor Lacerda, and others that it was because that nation had carried on war with the Muize people ever since those days. I then requested Pereira to give me three of his slaves to send as an embassage to the said King Cazembe, in order to see if it would induce that nation to come and trade again ¦with this town, as it had formerly done. He gave me them, and I sent them as envoys to the said King Cazembe ; and he, seeing the said slaves on their arrival, decided to send me an embassag.e- composed of a chief and fifty of his vassals, by which he sent me word that there had been in his kingdom for the last four years those two persons who had come from Angola, whom he ordered to be given up. They reached this town on the 2nd February of the present year, bringing me a letter from their master, of which letter I have the honour to enclose you a copy. On my asking the above men if they wished to return voluntarily by the way they had come, they replied yes ; but that it was necessary the means required for their transport should be provided by me. I ordered for them 700 cloths with 250 reis fortes each. I reported everything to my Captain-General, and asked him whether the Royal Council of that capital would place that amount to my account, ofi'ering in case of their refusal to defray the expense myself. To this despatch sufficient time has not yet elapsed for me to receive a reply. I might make some reflections to your Excellency on this discovery, as I do not find a large amount of intelligence in these explorers ; but, at the same time, I admit that, according to their capabilities, they did a great deal. As they return by the same route, I have instructed them as to the way in which they should proceed on their journey, the inquiries they ^ould make as to the mood in which they find some of the petty kings, as to whether they will really allow us to travel freely through those parts, and what are the presents we should offer them, on all of which points they have been tutored by me. They promise to carry out the above objects exactly, with all necessary clearness, and to deliver to His Excellency the Captain-General of Angola whatever they may come into possession of bearing on ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 169 the opening up of the country, all of which I acquaint your Excellency with, that you may be good enough to lay it before His Royal Highness our Lord the Prince Regent. I have also the honour of remitting to Your Excellency the Diary which the explorers have offered me, numbered 1 ; as also a list of questions which I put to them, numbered 2 ; and a letter which the Lieutenant-Colonel, the master of the above explorers, wrote me, numbered 3. God keep your Excellency's Illustrious and Excellent Person. Residential Quarters of the town of Tette, 20th May, 1811. To the Illustrious and Excel lent Count das Galveas, of the Council of H.R.H., Minister and Secretary for Marine and Colonies. (Signed) Constantino Peeeika de Azevedo, Governor of the Bivers of Senna. f' No. 1. (Copy.) 1806. In the name of God, Amen. ^ 't , j^ ^ The route which I, Pedro Joapi Baptista, followed in my journey from the Muropue to the Ki^g Cazembe Caquinhata, by order of the Most Illustrious and iVcellent Captain-General of the Kingdom of Angola, for the opening up of the way to the East Coast of Africa by the Rivers \i Senna, a work entrusted to Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Director of the Fair of Casange, with goods worth two contos of reis, to expend in gifts to chiefs on the way, in order to facilitate the obtaining permission for the opening tip of the road to Tette. -, [1st.] Sunday, 22nd of May of said year. — We started at 6 A.M. from the Muropue's great farm, having stayed in the house of his son named after countrYJashion-GapfiniJft.bia.nva. or accord- JBg Jo nis posi, !joano_Mutopo doMarogus, We passed a river ^A^allS^^^Sf'^m^^ASamswiS^^^s^l^iB, seconajiver, Luiza, which both run into the river Lunhua. During 'tiie journey we came to the guide's place, whom the Muropue had- given to us to conduct us to the Cazembe, the name of this placfe.being Cutaqua. We paid the guide tfiQj?i]a,USIibo''^^d CflLYiLi!iri.,L^!^'' nf "^^jp.ffsv." We arrived at the above place at nightialL V^ met many people going to the said farm of the Muropue,\ carrying mandioca flour for their masters. We marched with the sun in our rear. D '^ (51 \' ** t ^ , ' ^ [2nd.] Wednesday, 8th of June. — We got up at seven, and started from the guide's place. "We passed three narrow running streams, whose names we do not know^ which run into 170 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA the river Zuiza (Luiza ?), and we came to the farm of the black named Caquiza Muegi, a slave of the Muropue, near a small stream, the water of which they drink. He sent us to lodge in his houses, and we gave him two " chuabos."* We arrived there .at noon, and met no one, neither did we do anything. We ja ar.ched.-with the sun as before. [3rd.] Thursday, 9th of same Month. — We got up at 2 a.m., and started from Caquiza Muegi's farm. We passed five small streams, and on the march we stopped at thg farm of the ..Q.ujIqIo. .o£, the Muropue. named Muene Cahuenoaj to wBom 'we gave as presents six chuabos and two jghite twisted, glasses , with bell-shaped mouths. We arrived at our halting-place at ' Toiif inThe' a"Pl8rhO(D'h, and built our huts near the narrow stream, of which they drink the water, called " Izabuigi." We marched latterly with the sun on our left. We fteftmh no one. [4th.] Friday, 10th. — We got up at dawn, and started from Muene Cahuenda's farm. We passed four streams — names not Ijnown — and continuing on our journey passed a river three fathoms wide, called Mue-me.. and came to our ^jesert-Jialting- placa beyond and near the stream called Canahia, which "empGes into the said river Mue-me; on the other side of the river Canahia we found houses already made by the travellers of the country called Canoguesa, who were come to bring then- tribute to their Muropue. We arrived at three in the after noon. We travelled with the sun as before, and met ten blacks 'who had gone to buy salt at the Salina. [5th.J Saturday, 11th. — We got up at five a.m. and left our desert-lodging. We passed three narrow turbulent rivers on the way, and came to another desert halting-place, near the narrow stream called "Quipungo.'' The farm of some of Muropue's black people was near, but we did not speak to any of them. We arrived at the said halting-place at noon, having marched with the sun on our left. We made a halt there to get necessary provisions. [6th.] Sunday, 12th. — We left our desert-lodging, having got up qixofi^crow. We passed three narrow rivers, which run into the river calledJDalalimg — the names of them we do not know— and came to anotherjde&aKtJtidaiing made of thick bushes staked to keep off wild beasts, neartKe said~river' Calahmo, rif * In page 237, the Chuabo, or Xoabo, is explained to mean an East-Indian Ejcloth; in other places it appears to be a measure. — R. F. B. PROM MUROPUE TO CAZEMBE. 171 which is ten fathoms wide, more or less; we arrived at the said stopping-place at noon, and had a little rain. We met no one. [7th.] Monday, 13th. — At 2 a.m. we left the desert, and passed over eleven small streams. We marched up the valley of the before-mentioned river Calalimo, and during this journey we came to a halting-place near a river called Camu-sangagila, on the other side of which we reached our halting-place at night fall, and passed the night out, although the rain was falling. We marched with the sun on our left. [8th.J Tuesday, 14th. — We started from our desert halting- place, near the river Camu-sangagila, which we left at 8 a.m. We passed five running streamlets, and during the march we came to the farm of a black named Muene Cassa, near a rivulet, name not known, on the further bank of which we talked with the said black about this our journey, that we were going to Cazembe, being sent by Muropue. The farm was at some dis tance from our halting-place. We gave a small mirror as a present, and a chuabo of red " ,sprp|.fing-!! (a kind of tissue). We arrived at three in the afternoon, and marched with the sun as before. [9th.] 'Wednesday, 15th. — We started from the farm of Muene Cassa at 7 a.m., passed the (nine ?) narrow streams, and during the march we came to the halting-place direct,* still near the river Calalimo. We arrived at the said place at 2 P.M., having mfet with no one. We marched with the sun as before. [lOth.J Thwrsday, 16th. — We got up and started at early dawn. We passed three narrow running streams by bridges, and came to another desert halting-place near a small rivei'? We arrived there at mid-day, and built near the same river. Some men were in our jear belonging to Soana Mulopo, sent by him to buy salt ; we met no one. [11th.] Friday, 17th. — We got up and started at 5 A.M. from the lodging above named. We forded a running river called Roando, two fathoms wide, which runs into the river Lunheca. During our march we passed another narrow river called Rova, which may be, more or less, thirteen fathoms wide. * Du-eito, direct, may be an error for deserto, desert, deserted. — R. F. B. 172 ROUTE JOURNAL OP P. J. BAPTISTA This also runs into the Lunheca. The farm of a black, called Fumo Ahilombe of the Muropue, was some distance from us, but that did not cause us any trouble. We arrived there at noon, and built near the same river, meeting with no one. [12th.J Saturday, 18th. — At 5 a.m. we got up and started from the farm of Fumo Ahilombe. We passed six narrow rivers which run into the Rova, and during the march we came to the desert halting-place, beyond and near the river called Cazale. This stream may be, more or less, twenty fathoms wide, with water up to our waists. It runs into the river Lunheca. We reached the said place about nightfall. We met several people loaded with dry fish, which they were going to sell at the Muropue's farm. We marched with the sun on our left, and saw nothing of importance. [13th.] Sunday, 19th. — We left our desert halting-place above mentioned at 6 a.m. We passed no river, and, continuing our journey, we came to the farm of the Luilolo (Quilolo) of the Muropue, called Caponco Bumba Ajala, and we conversed with him about the journey we were making by order of the Muropue to the Cazembe. He answered that it was well, and directly ordered us some eatables on behalf of his master the Muropue. Wegavehhn a present of four chuabos and a mirror. We reached the said d^ty at 4 p.m., near the river called Muncuzu. We met no one. [14th.] Monday, 20th. — We started at two a.m. from the farm of Capomo (Caponco ?). We passed a stream, and during our march crossed in a canoe a river, called Caginrige. The pilots of the QuiMo..MHe.ne Mene, wj^„.i§ X'Qldt.of -this port, took us across. Tnis river may be about fourteen fathoms wide ; it runs into the Lunheca. We reached the farm of the said Quilolo Muene Mene, and talked with him about the journey we were making to Cazembe, by order of Muropue ; he also answered •ttiat it was very good, that the road was quite clear. We gave him for this a,,muzenza containing a hundred blue stone- beads and five chuabos of assorted serafina, and further forty other white stones, and for his pilots two chuabos of Indian cloth. We made our kraal some distance from the farm to keep out of the way of the thieves who rob at night. We reached there at 3 p.m., and met no one. We stayed at this place six days to collect provisions with which to proceed. ri5th.] Tuesday, 5th July.~We rose at the first cockcrow, and left the farm of Muene Mene. We passed four narrow rivers FROM MUROPUE TO CAZEMBE. 173 which run into the river Caginrige, and we came to the farm of a black, known to our guide as Soana Ganga. We spoke with him about our journey to Cazembe. We reached there at 2 P.M., having met no one. We, gave him no present. We marched with the sun on our leit. ""^ [16th.] Wednesday, 6th. — We started from Soana Ganga's farm at 7 A.M. We passed two narrow running streams which empty themselves into the said river Caginrige. We came to the farm of the Quilolo of the mother of Muropue called Lun-« congucha, and the Quilolo is named Muene Camatanga. We spoke with him of the journey we were making to the Cazembe, to which he answered, that as many as liked could travel that way. We gave him a present of five chuabos and a small mirror, and fifty milkstone beads. We reached this place at noon. We marched with the sun as before, and met no one. [17th.] Thursday, 7th. — We started from Muene Cama- tanga's farm at 6 A.M. We passed three streams which run into the said river Caginrige. During the journey we came to the farm of the Quilolo, the same before mentioned as Muene Casamba, whither Camatanga himself directed us, in order that his vassal, who had given us the guide, might supply us with necessary provisions for our journey to Cazembe, made by order of the Muropue. In this same farm we made a month's stay, to prepare the said provisions and allow the (manioc) flour, which had been steeped in water, to get dry. We met no one. For the above service we gave two chuabos of woollen stuff. [18th.] Friday, 9th of August. — We started from Muene Ca samba at 3 A.M. We again passed the river Caginrige, and during the march we passed another narrow river, the name unknown, which also runs into the said river Caginrige. We came to a desert halting-place, near another small river, which we reached at 4 p.m. We built our circle (kraal) during rain ; we met no one. [19th.] Saturday, 10th. — We got up and left our desert halting-place at half-past five in the morning. We passed a running river, narrow, with stony bed, name not known, and came to another halting-place, called Canpueje, near a running stream, where we found houses already made by the travelling Arundas. We reached there at 2 p.m., and saw nothing. [20th.] Sunday, 11th. — We left our desert halting-place, from which we rose at 2 a.m. We passed three narrow rivers. 174 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA During the journey we came to another desert halting-place, near a stream, the name of which we do not know. We reached the said place at four in the afternoon ; we met no one. [21st.] Monday, 12th. — We left our stopping-place at 6 A.M. We passed a narrow running stream called Maconde, and during the march we came to another halting-place called Lunpaja. The farm of the Quilolo, called Anbulita Quisosa, was near, but we did not talk with him about our journey. We reached the said place at noon ; we met no one, and marched with the sun on our left. ' [22nd.] Tuesday, 13th. — We got up and left our desert resting-place at 5 a.m. We passed no river, and came to the farm of the son of the Quilolo Cutaganda, near the river called Reu. We spoke with him concerning the journey we were making to Cazembe. We gave as a present to the said Quilolo two chuabos of blue serafina and 200 cowries. We arrived at the farm at 3 p.m. We marched with the sun as before. [28rd.] Wednesday, 14th. — We left the son of Cutaganda at seven in the morning. We forded the river Reu, which is about twenty fathoms wide. We came to the desert halting- place, near a stream, name not known. We arrived at 2 p.m., having met with no one. [24th. J Thursday, 15th. — We started at 6 a.m. from our desert stopping-place. We passed three narrow rivers which run into the river Reu above named. We came to another desert stopping-place near a stream called Qusbela (Quibenla?), which also runs into river Reu. The farm of the black, named Muconcota, a chief of Muropue, being far distant, he himself came to our lodging-place that we might give him something as a present. We gave him seven chuabos of serafina of different qualities. We reached there at three in the afternoon. "\^"e marched with the sun as before, and met with no one. [25th.J Friday, 16th.— y^e left our desert halting-place at 5 A.M. We passed four narrow rivers which run into the river Qusbela. During the journey we reached a desert-lodging near a running stream called Capaca Melemo. We arrived at the said lodging at noon \vithout rain. We had in our company some blacks, who were going to buy salt at the Salina. We met with no one. FROM MUROPUE TO CAZEMBE. 175 [26th.] Saturday, 17th. — We started from our desert-lodging near the river Capaca Melemo at 6 A.M. We forded four small rivers, and continuing our journey we passed another river called Ropoeja, which may be about thirty fathoms wide. It runs into the river called Lubilaje. We came to another desert halting-place near the same river Lubilaje, on the other side of which we reached our lodging at three in the afternoon, without rain. We marched with the sun the same as before ; we met with no one. [27th.J Sunday, 18th. — We made a halt at the farm of a black named Quiabela Mucanda, which is near the above-named river Ropoeja. He stopped our road, in order that we might give him something because he was a potentate of the Muropue'sr* Besides this he also gave us food to eat on behalf of said Muropue, and brought for us as a parting gift a dead stag an^ three quicapos of green manioca flour for our use. We gave him as a present ten chuabos and a small looking-glass. He said that we might continue our journey, and that had wejngt^ >1V'^'^-^'ni , OTjjj^T'^''''" iiHaii1..1-4T^rv5-'T^n?PT<'"niiV"MM««9MM« do not know. We arrived there at two in the afternoon ; built in the rain, near the " Lovras " (probably " Lavras," or gold- washings) of the said black. We marched with the sun on our left, and saw nothing rare. [50 th.] We left the farm of the black above-mentioned at two in the morning. We crossed three narrow rivers, whose names we do not know. During the journey we came to the farm of two blacks, named Catetua and Catiza ; we reached there at two in the afternoon, with rain. We marched with the sun as before. We met no one. [51st.] At two in the morning we started from the farm of Catetua, crossed three rivers, each three fathoms wide. We came to the farm of Dona Francisca, named Maxinga. We reached there at three in the afternoon, without rain, and lodged in the houses of the said blacks. We marched as before, and met no one. [52nd.] From Maxinga we started at 6 a.m. without rain ; crossed a river on foot, which had water up to our breasts; we do not know the name of it. During the march we reached the farm of some blacks, whose names we are ignorant of. We arrived there at midday, having met with no one ; we lodged .in the houses of the farm. 198 QUESTIONS PUT TO P. J. BAPTISTA. [53rd.] At six o'clock in the morning we left the farm of the blacks. We crossed a river, whose name we do not know, and came to the farm of Gonpalo Caetano, named Musoro- anhata. We did not find him there ; only the father-in-law of the same Gonpalo, by name Pascoal Domingos, who ordered us to occupy the houses of the slaves of the above-named. We reached this place at two in the afternoon without rain; we met with no one. [54th.] Started from Musoro-anhata at eleven in the morning ; crossed two small streams, whose names we do not know. During the march we came to the farm of Manoel Caetano, whom we found at home; he gave us shelter. We reached there at three in the afternoon with rain; we met no one. [55th.] At two in the morning we set out from Manoel Caetano's place, crossed two streams, and came to the farm of the said Gonpalo Caetano Pereira. We arrived at noon ; met some blacks sent by him. We occupied the houses of bis Caffres by his order. Westayed in this place twenty days to ed with the sun as before! rest ourselves ; marcheo [56th.] At dawn we started from Gonpalo Caetano Pereira's farm ; crossed a narrow river, name unknown. During the march we came to the farm of a soldier named Macoco. We reached there at four in the afternoon ; met a great many people. [57th.] Left the farm of the soldier Macoco, at seven in the morning. We crossed no river. During the journey we came near the river Zambeze; we crossed it in a canoe to this town, which we reached on Saturday, the 2nd of February, 1811. [No. 2.] On summoniug to my residential quarters the two men, discoverers of the road from Angola to this town, I put the following questions to them : — I asked their names. One answered, his name was Pedro Joao Batista, and his comrade's Anastacio Francisco. Asked them whence they came, and by whose orders. They replied, they came from the interior of Angola, by order of His Excellency D. Fernando de Noronha, Captain-General of QUESTIONS PUT TO P. J. BAPTISTA. 199 Angola, who charged their master, Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Commander of the Fair of Casanje, to send them on a discovery, from that Western Capital to the Eastern Coast, from which master they brought a letter for the Governor of these Rivers. On being asked when they set out from the inner regions of Angola, they replied, they left the plantation named tjj.g, ^ajr. of _Casanje at the end of November 1802 ; but that on the JeigUtli day of the journey they met with resistance, not being "aiiowea to pass l5eyond' the farm of the chief Bonba, whejg. jthey stayed till the .Y^r .1805^ without being able to go Stner iorwa'r'd"'OT'''t3^ac¥, 1M advisetheir master at their starting- place, that he might send them some goods, so that the chief would allow them to pass freely. However, as soon as they were able to give such information to their master, he assisted them with goods, to allow of their passing ; and that, pursuing their journey, they made a digression and went into the territory of another chief, named Mexico, which digression cost* twenty days. That in the said farm, people wished to make war against them, and seize the goods they had with them, because, previously to their arrival, a merchant of the same fair had gone to this farm, and had taken, on credit, a certain number of j slaves, a certain quantity of wax, and some ivory, and had not' yet paid the said chief. However, they state that they con tented him with a quantity of cloths, and he allowed them to leave freely. Continuing their joui'ney thence they went to the farm of Catende, a, petty lj:;i,np- now subject to the J^jandMoropo, in which eight" days were occupiea "Iroin tne previous farm ; and going on from this they went to the farm of Chaanbuje, distant Irom the preceding three days; thence they proceeded to the town of Luibaica, distant four days from the last ; and thence they went to another farm, named Banga - Banga, in which they occupied two days ; thence they went to the farm of the Moropo's mother, named Locon- •" queixa, in which journey they spent two days; thence they went on to the capital of the Grand Moropo, and it is from this place that they began to keep the route-journal, which they delivered to me, up to this town of Tette. On asking them if, in this digression, since they had started from the inner regions of Angola to their arrival at Moropo's, they had found provisions and water on the road, they answered that they had found everything, and had paid for such things with their goods. On asking them if, since setting out from Mexico's farm to Moropo, as also from this to Cazembe, and alterwards to this town, they had encountered any marauders, who had attempted 200 LETTER OF F. H. DA COSTA. to rob them of the goods they were carrying, they answered no, that on the contrary, they had met with much liberality in many farms. On asking them when they had arrived at Cazembe, and f(3r what reason they did not continue their journey to this city, they answered that tliey arrived there in the year 1806, and that having- no resources whatever to bring them on to this town, because of King Cazembe's being at war with the King oiL ¦ the^Mui^es, a country through which they would have to jia.ss, they remained in Cazembe till the end of the year 1810, when they then came ou to this town. rf*^** On asking them with what amount of hospitality the King of Cazembe had treated them, they replied, that during the whole of the four years he had supplied them with all they needed, both food and clothing, so that all the time they wanted for nothing. On asking them if they wished voluntarily to return by the same route, or whether they would prefer going by sea, as I could send them to Mozambique, so that they might inform their master of their proceedings, they 'answered that they wished to go back by the same route, as they were desirous ' of making a more complete and circumstantial route journal \ than the one they had presented to me ; but that to enable them to do this, I should have to provide them with goods from His Royal Highness, to maintain them on their journeys, to ? provide and pay the chiefs for safe-conducts, whom they would have to pass, and also to purchase some slaves to accompany »tthem on the route, and carry them should either ..of .them fall ill on the road. «.»— — - --~— ™_ [No. 3.] (Copy.) Illusteious Sir, — The Most Serene Prince Regent, our Lord, strongly urged upon the Most Illustrious and Excellent Dom Fernando Antonio de Noronha, Actual Governor and Captain- General of this State and Kingdom of Angola, on which this Fair of Casanje is dependent, the exploration and opening up of the Eastern with this Western Coast. His Excellency also ordered me to penetrate, if I could, as far as the Cazembe, where it is known that the illustrious Lacerda, worthy predecessor of _ your Excellency, had died ; and suggested I should write and communicate to your Excellency this most important object, so interesting to the whole nation, and so much desired by His Royal Highness, to whom all his faithful subjects are. LETTER OF F. H. DA COSTA. 201 ¦ 'h ¦ with the greatest consideration, so ambitious to render services, and to unite in working together for the glory of such an excel lent Sovereign. The importance of this communication led me to send all my slaves on so serious an fenterprise, though I was obliged to be without them so far away in the interior, and distant from the capital of Angola. This will be delivered to your Excellency by my said slaves. I have striven in this matter since 1797 to obtain from ,Sucilo Bamba, Cambambi, Camacaca, and Mujumbo ^ealunga, Ijfltfiatflfct J^ir rn'Ter "yf" ai 1 , "J^op.°'0) y'tkssao-e"' Into ' the "T^^enor, to negotiate with all in general, and with the potentate Jaga Cacanje, ruler of the lands in which this fair is situated. And tor this reason, I turned to di.sx'over the means of communicating with your Ex cellency through the above-name^ potentate. Ruler of all the Sougo, concerning the expenses it was indispensable for me to incur with him ; although I dissembled with him as to the principal purport of this business, by explaining to him the grief in which I was living, through my ignorance as to the existence* of one of my brothers, who having taken a different route at sea, it was reported had travelled by land to Senna, and thence had gone to Cazembe, where he died. That I was in doubt as to whether such was the case or not ; that if it was as stated, it would at once remove all anxiety, and I should, after Jamentmg ^is_ loss, _^proceed to "console^ myself "lor it, as" is necessary in this life ; and should then go on to inquire what had become"^ his property, and who had succeeded him in his rights. In this way, I succeeded in obtaining from him a passage through his dominions, and sent my slaves, accom panied by his own vassals, to a country named Louvar, in which the p_otentate Liuuhg^eg.ov'i'-^'us. He inforrii^^^I say, that he was~correspohd"ed with and amicably treated, and in formed me that he had just sent to ask for a daughter as his wife, to unite more closely the bonds of amity with those of' relationship. He offered to send and ask that friend (now father-in-law, said to be to the west of the river Luambeje, which I believe runs to the eastern coast, but am not certain of yet, and who is a relation of Cazembe's, and owes, they say, allegiance to Cazembe) to have my messengers passed safely and peacefully by his people, that they may reach Cazembe. I write to the latter, requesting him to let these men come on to your Honour with my letter, by means of which I expect to obtain an exact knowledge of my said brother's fate, and who has succeeded to his rights according to the means that appeared best to me to adopt. Persons who have been sent to that capital to get information, recom- 202 DESPATCH OF J. D'O. BARBOSA. mend that these inquiries should be conducted with all care and the greatest possible secrecy, so that the prejudices which the r blacks entertain against the whites may not be disturbed ;___they Umagiae_that.,the latter never dojinytihmg..exceptfpr_ their, jown fcrofit, and to their (the blacks') prejudice, that the whites have no Isincerityjan'd" only 'turn "their actions "to their "own advantage fagainst them. Another great reason for the strife and j"e^alousy [existing among the black nations is, that the whites endeavour to^ 1 H2fit-J^'5^^-thfiil..,.supei:ipr.ity^ o|^ and'power, to subject to l^'toem other ^nations interior "S"^ force , and position. They are jealous lest the blacks should enjoy the same privileges, and thus be able to remove the yoke in which they are bound. They supply them, themselves, with some few things that they think neces sary, adding whatever they think proper to their cost ; prevent ing the others obtaining the same articles firsthand from whence they obtain them, and which they have thus the power of supplying them with. You will kindly credit the profound respect I entertain for you, and honour me with your, to me, much esteemed corre spondence, to effect the long-coveted discovery, in pursuance of the Royal orders given to the Most Illustrious Governor and Captain-General of Angola, at whose suggestion and recom mendation I decided to try and obtain those of your Honour for the same end. With all consideration, I most cordially kiss your Honour's hands, whom God keep many happy years. Fair of Casanje em Carmo de Quiriquibe, 11th November, 1804. The Most Illus trious Governor of Senna knd Tette. Your most obedient and respectful servant, (Sigtned) Feancisco Honoeato da Costa, Director of the Fair qf Casanje. / Most Illusteious and Excellent Sie, — I have the satisfac tion of laying before your Excellency the letter from the Governor of the Rivers of Senna, which came by land, in consequence of the discovery of a communication between the two coasts of Eastern and Western Africa, with copies of the letter addressed to me by Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Director of the Fair of Mucary, to whose fatigues and exertions this discovery is due, and the diaries of the journeys and other intelligence bearing on the same subject. The Pombeiro slaves belonging to the above-men- ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 203 tioned director, named Pedro Joao Baptista and Amaro Joze, are embarked on board the frigate " Prince Dom Pedro," to be delivered to the Secretariat of State, so that they may personally give any other information to your Excellency. The above-said Lieutenant-Colonel, through my intervention, prays that His Royal Highness will remunerate him for his services to the extent that he deserves. God keep your Excellency. St. Paul's of the Assumption of Loanda, 25th January, 1815 - The Most Illustrious and Excellent Antonio de Araujo de Azevedo = (Signed) Jos6 be Olivbika Baebosa {Captain-General of Angola). [No. 1.] This is another copy of the letter of F. H. da' Costa, tran scribed in Part A, No. 6, page 236, and translated in pp. 198- 202 of this Appendix. [No. 2.] * One thousand eight hundred and six. — In the name of God, Amen. — Route Journal, which I, Pedro Joao Baptista, make on my journey from Muatahianvo to King Cazembe Caquinhata. — 1st day of the march and lodging, whence we started from the great farm of the said Muatahianvo, from his son's house, iiami^id, after the land fa,^slg,gft. Capenda Hianva, where we were lodging, or accordrngtohis post, Soana Mulopo of the Muata- JuaBSO, irom which we ^et out at six o clock m the morning. We crossed two rivers, one named Igiba, of four fathoms' width,'* the other Luiza, both of which run into the river Lulua ; during the journey we arrived }\it the place "f the guide whom the said potentate Muatahianvo had given us to the Cazembe, named, after ihecountrystyle, Cutaguaseje. We reached this place at dusk. "TSfeTmffiBer of people, who were going to the Banza (abode) of the Muatahianvo, carrying to their masters provisions of dry manioc fiour, called "^^^" Marched_ with .Jhe sun in our ' rear' and saw nothing unusual. [2nd.] Lodging of Cutaguaseje. Set out at seven in the morning. Passed three narrow runnug streams, whose names I do not know, which run into the river Luiza. Con- * This is the same Diary, with trifling variations, printed in pp. 169-188.- R. F. B. 204 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. tinning the journey, we again crossed the said river Luiza, and arrived at the place of the black named Caquiza Muexi, a slave of the Muatahianvo, near a river, the water of which they drink. He ordered us to lodge in the houses of the owner of the farm. We arrived at midday, without rain, and met with no one. [3rd.] Lodging place of Caquiza Muexi. We started at two o'clock in the morning. Crossed five streams, whose names I do not know. During the march came to the farm of the Quilolo of Muatahianvo, named Muene Canenda. We reached this place at four in the afternoon, and built near the river Isabuigi, of which they drink the water. Marched with the sun on our left. We stayed here three days, the guide's female slave being ill. Saw no great variety of birds or animals. [4th.] Lodging of the farm of the Quilolo Muene Canenda. Started at dawn, without rain. Crossed four streams, whose names I do not know. Continuing our journey, we crossed a river named Mue-me, and came to the end of the desert, on the other side and near the river Canaia, which runs into the river Mue-me : here we found the houses Ijuilt by the travellers «fiLl.he.. country, named ^ Canongafigga, who -were ""going fo"pay tribute to"lffuataEianvo. We reached there at three in the after noon, having marched with the ^p as before. Met some people who had gone to buy saft in the Salina, called " da Quigila." [5th.] Desert-lodging, whence we started at five in the morning. Passed three narrow rivers, which were rough in , crossing. Came to another desert, near the narrow river caUed Quipungo, the farm of some blacks, whose names we do not know, slaves of Muatahianvo, being a little way off. We reached this lodging at midday, without rain. Met no one, and had no dealings with those in the farm. We saw no rarity, ^nd to procure provisions we halted here two days. [6th.] Desert-lodging, whence we started at^ockcrow. Crossed ten (three?) narrow rivers, which run into the river named Calalema, which rivers we do not know the names of, and came to a,notitMi desert-lodging Qf..thick.bn.shps, staked-aLUaand. near the said river Calalema, which is about twelve (ten?) fathoms across. We reached this place about two in the afternoon, with a little rain. Met no one, and marched with the sun as before. [7th.] Desert-Jadging. Started from the same at cock crow. Crossed eleven narrow rivers, names unknown, and fol- ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 205 lowed up the course of the river Calalema. During the journey, we came ^-^ fi, rl ppifirt-lod gin g near a at,refl.m named Camus- sanga Gila, on»the other_ side_qf ^^which we came to Jhe, said lodging at nighffili, arid Ead'not time tonBuiTd pur .huts to sleep in. Met no one," and saw nothing"unusual.'"" [8th.] Desert-lodging, near the river Camussanga Gila. Started thence at five in the morning, crossed six running streams, and, during the journey, came to the farm of a black , slave of Muatahianvo, named Muene Cassa, near and on the other side of a stream, the name of which I do not know, the farm above-mentioned being situated a long way off from our- lodging. We reached here at three in the afternoon. Met no one. Marched with the sun on our left side, built near the saidnlace, and had no deahngs with those in thelarrh.' [9th.] Lodging of the farm of Muene Cassa. Started from this place at dawn, crossed nine small rivers, and, during the march, came to a desert-lodging, still near the river Calalema^ reached this river at four in the afternoon. Met no one.. Marched with the sun, as before, and saw no beasts. [10th.] Desert-lodging. Started from this place at seven in the morning. Crossed three running rivers by bridges.-* Came to another desert, near a small river, name unknown. We reached there at midday, and built near the same river. Some of Soana Mulopo's people came along in our rear, sent h^ him to buy salt. Met no one, and marched with the sun as before. [11th.] Desert-lodging. Started from it at five in the morn ing. Crossed on foot a running river, named Roando, two fathoms wide, which flows into the river Lulua. During the march we came to another narrow river called Rova, and arrived at the end of our march near the said Rova, which is about thirteen fathoms wide, and also runs into the river Lulua, the farm of a black named Tumo (Fumo ?) Ahilanbe, of Muata hianvo, being a long way off. We arrived at midday, without rain, and built near the said river. Marched with the sun on our left. Met no one, ana saw no beasts. [12th.] Desert-lodging. Started at early dawn. Crossed six narrow streams, which run into the river Rova. During the march we came to the deaeEtslodging, on the other side and near the river called Cazalle, which is about twenty fathoms in width, with water to our waists ; it runs into the 206 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. Luliia. We reached this river at dusk. Met several people 4paded TYJth.^ah. which they were going to sell at the Banza of tBe^Muatahianvo. Marched with the sun on the left. Saw nothing new. [13th.] Desert-lodging above named. Set out at six in the morning. Crossed no river, and, continuing our march, came to the place of Quilolo of the Muatahianvo, named after the country CaEQCO .Bjjmha».^^a. _ We spoke to him aBouT biir " journey, which we were making, by order of his Muatahianvo, to the country of the Cazembe Caquinhata ; he answered it was well, and ordered us to lodge in his " sons' " houses; he gave us as guests four^moitetes^ of ., igur and a mutete pf fi^. We reached this iairoa? four in the afternoon, "^ear "a "narrow stream or river named Mucuza. Met no one, and marched with the sun as before. [14th.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Capoco, from which we started at two in the morning. Passed a dry stream, and, continuing our journey, crossed the river Caginrige by canoe, the boatmen of the Quilolo Muene Mene, who was lord of the port, having put us on the other side of it ; this said river is about fourteen fathoms -wide, and runs into the river Lulua. We arrived at the farm of Mene, the said Quilolo of Muatahianvo, and treated with him regarding our journey to Cazembe by order of the said Muatahianvo : he answered nothing, and only said that the way was open. We made our circle there, f5£^,_off_from J;he farm, and paid the boatmen "twcu3^Hm.S§ £f„,?.]ftft^^§ (I'^dian cloth), and gave the owner a small looking-glass with gilt papered„.gdges, and>fifty:,beads.pf^ roncalha. We reached this at three in the afternoon. Met no"' one, and marched with the sun as before. [15th.] Lodging at the place of Muene Mene. Started rat the first cockcrow. Crossed four narrow rivers running into the said river Caginrigi, and came to the farm of the black known as the owner, and named by our guide Soana Ganga ; spoke with him regarding the journey we are making to Cazembe. We arrived at two in the afternoon. Met no one, saw nothing uncommon, and marched with the sun on our left. [16th.] Lodging of the farm of Soana Ganga. Started at seven in the morning. Crossed two narrow rivers running into said river Caginrigi ; came to the farm of Muatahianvo's mother, Luconquessa ; found there his Quilolo, named, after the country- ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 207 fashion,Muene Camatanga. We spoke with him about our journey, that we were going to Cazembe Caquinhata by order of the Muata hianvo ; he replied, that people going from Angola to Cazembe was very gratifying ; we gave him a beirame of linen and jtg.ft,ti !&:... ^colomJiifiads, beside%JjSjt,small.M.ue .&taaesJtttA.K.,,lijyaaskik'' wliichi§,.a gift.toijie, lord, pf, the Jgfld. We reached this city at midday, without rain. ''ATej;,,,^, gfladu T"'^?'^Y peoplp. ^.aixist. to, biiyjalt. Marched with the sun as before. [17th.] Lodging at the farm of Muene Camatanga, from which we started at six in the morning, crossed three streams, which run into the river Caginrigi. During the march we arrived at the farm of the Quilolo of said Camatanga, named Muene Cassamba, whither Camatanga had directed us to go, in order to obtain provisions for our desert march, by order of Muatahianvo'. With collecting these provisions we were detained fifteen days. Met no one, and saw nothing unusual. [18th.] Lodging at Muene Cassamba's farm. Started from this place at two in the morning, again crossed the river Cagin rigi. During the march crossed another river running into the same Caginrigi. We came to the desert-lodging near another , narrow river, the name unknown. We reached said lodging at midday ; built our huts during rain. Met no one, and marched with sun on our left, and no beasts. [19tli.] Desert lodging. Started from it at half-past 6 a.m. passed a narrow river with stony bed, and came to another desert called Canpueje, near a running stream, where we found houses, built by__the Alundas travellers. Arrived there at two in the afternoon ;"saw'rrothing uncommon. & o' [20th = 21st of former Journal, p. 174.] Desert-lodging. Canpueje. Started hence at cockcrow, crossed a narrow river named Maconde. During the journey came to another desert- lodging called Lunsaja, .^he .'' li^gjt^ " (settlements, villages) of the Quilolo Anibulete QuissosaTof the Muatahianvo, being a short way on. Did not speaKwith him about our lourney. Reached this at four in the afternoon, ana^J^uilt near a narrow runniug river, name unkjiQjvn. Marched with the 'sun" on our left, and met no one. '" [21st.] Lodging pf _ the desert. Lunsaja, from which we started at Eve in the morning, passed no river, and during the march came to the farm of the son of Cuta Ganda, near a river 208 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. called Reu. We spoke with him about-^ur journey to Cazembe. We reached the said city at three in the afternoon. Met no one, marched with the sun as before, and saw no beasts. [22nd.] Lodging at the farm of the son of Cutaganda. Got up at seven in the morning, crossed the river Rgu on foot ; it is about twenty fathoms wide. We came toTSeaesert-lodging ,u^£ a small stream, name unknown. We i^eacRed'said'^'fream aFlwo in the afternoon. Met no one. Marched with the sun on our left side. [23rd.] Desert-lodging. Started from it at six in the morning, crossed three narrow streams, which run into said river Reu, came to another desert near a river named Quibenla, which also runs into the river Reu, the " libatas " of the Quilolo Munconcota being very distant. Reached there at three in the afternoon, and saw nothing unusual. [24th.] Desert-lodging near the river Quibenla. Started at five in the morning, crossed four narrow rivers which run into said river Quibenla. During the march came to another 'desert-lodging, named Capaca Melemo, close by a runnino- stream. Reached this at ny^dav. without rain. Marched with the sun as before. Met no one. [25th.] Desert-lodging, Capaca Melemo. Left at six in the morning, crossed four narrow rivers. During the march came to and crossed a river named Ropoege, which is about thirty fathoms wide, and runs into the river Lubilage. We came to the desert-lodging close by the other side of said river. We reached this at three in the afternoon, without rain, marched with the sun on our left, saw no birds nor beasts worth noting. [26th.] Desert-lodging. Started at seven in the morning, crossed two streams running into the river Eopoege, and con tinuing our march came to the desert-lodging called Cassaco, ^ near and on the other side of a running stream. Reached there ' at midday, ha^dng met no one, and marched with the sun as before. [27th.] Desert-lodging, Cassaco. Started ateockg-ow. crossed a campmg-place near a flowing river, very narrow, named Quipaca Amguengua, and during the journey came to another ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 209 desert-lodging, close by the river Ropele, four fathoms wide, running into the river Lububury. Reached this at three in the afternoon. Marched with the sun on our left ; met no one. Saw only some wild boars, who were feeding on this side of the said river. '--** [28th.] Desert-lodging near the river Ropele, from which we started at first cockcrow, passed no river, and continuing our journey we came to the desert-lodging near the narrow river called White River, it haviup- whit,e sands, which runs into the river Lububury. We reached said lodging at midday, built our barracks near the other side of the said river. Met no one, Marched with the sun as before ; saw neither birds nor beasts. ^ [29th.] Lodging near the White River. Started at seven in the morning, crossed no river. During the journey came to the desert-lodging near the river Lububury, which we did not cross. Reached this place at two in the afternoon. Marched with the sun on our left ; built our huts on this side, and near the said river. A number of people going to buy salt in company with us. Met no one ; saw nothing unusual. [30th = 32nd in former diary, p. 176.] Desert-lodging near the river Lububury. Started at 6 a.m., passed no river, came to the river Lububury, which we crossed on foot, and which had water to our waists. It is about forty fathoms in width, and has a stony bed. We met with people and slaves there of the Quilolo of the Muatahianvo and Cazembe, named, after the land fashion, Chamuginga Mucenda. Reached said farm at two in the afternoon. Did not speak with them, and built our huts near and the other side of the said river, a long way from the farm. Met no one ; saw neither birds nor reptiles ; marched with the sun as before. [31st.] Lodging of the Cio (Citio, a farm ?), near the river Lububury. Started therefrom at seven in the morning, crossed no river. During the march came to the " libata " of said Quilolo Chamuginga Mucenda. Spoke with him regarding our journey ; that we were going to Cazembe Caquinhata, by order of the Muatahianvo. He answered that the Cazembe was well. We reached this place at midday. He presented us as his guests with a Sanga of Aid and eight moitetes of (manioc) flour' — four for us and four for our guide — also a small she-goat^ We built some distance from the farm, close by the narrow river named Oamonguigi, but on the other side of it. Met no one ; marched with the sun as before ; saw neither birds nor beasts. 210 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. [32nd.] Lodging of the farm of Chamuginga Mucenda. Started therefrom at six in the morning, passed two halting- places but no river, and continuing our march came to the lodging named Mussula Apompo ; reached this at two in the afternoon, built our huts to the east of the said river. Marched with the sun on our left sidej saw nothing uncommon. Met no one. ' [33rd.] Desert-lodging Mussula Apompo. Started at six in the morning ; passed a narrow stream, named Son of the River Lufula, and continuing our journey we came to the same river Lufula, which we crossed, with the water to our waists. It is more or less fifteen fathoms wide, and runs into the river Lualaba. We reached there at midday, having marched with the sun on our left. Met no one, and built on the other side of and near the said river. [34th.] Lodging of the desert near the river Lufula. Started at five in the rttl5r»i®g,«»e^6!ra narrow river, whose name I do not know, and came to another desert resting-place, near a large river-plain named Quibonda, with a small stream on this side of it. Here we saw some black huntsmen, with the wild cattle •they had killed with arrows; they were going by the same route to the Salina, to buy salt. They (|id, ftot inform us_ whence they came. Reached said lodging at two in the "aRernpoBTWttitout rain. Marched with the sun as before, and saw nothing rare. [35th.] Desert-lodging near the Quibonda, which occupied us till midday in crossing. Having started at the first cock crow, crossed a stream, and during the march came to a lodging on a hill called Jupume (Inpume ?), near a narrow river named Camoa, of two fathoms in width, which runs into the river Lualaba. We reached this place at three in the afternoon, built our huts on the side of said hill at the top, without rain. Met no one ; marched with the sun on our left side. [36th.] "Q3Sfii''''-r-^^stiiil1g-p^''^'^ near the river Camoa, from which we started at five in the morning ; crossed no river, and during the march came to the desert-lodging near the small stream named Catonta, the lodging being called Mucary Agoia. We are now in the Cazembe's dominions. We reached here at noon; marched this journey with the sun in our front. ' Met some blacks, who were coming to the salt districts ; saw no birds nor animals of any rarity. [37th.] Deggctrlodgiug in the_halting-place named Mucari ROUTE JOURNAL OP P. J. BAPTISTA. 211 Agoia, from which we started at six in the morning ; crossed a narrow running stream, and, continuing our march, came to Aihe desert-lodging near the river, of small width, named Huita Amalete, which runs into the Lualaba. Wefouud^-some-dis— tance from the halting-place, .some huts of ^^!Q.uilQlQ.-Qf the ^Ca"zeiflbe,~iiamed^uire, JordoFthe c'oppei-inines. li.is in this- farm they make the bars.~''We''reached said halting-place at two in the afternoon ; spoke with them regarding our journey, that we were going to the King Cazembe, being sent by the' Muatahianvo. He answered that the King Cazembe was well, and also his uncle Quibiu'i, lord of the Salina._ He pTASAij|p.d- u^with nothing. Marcifed with the sun in our frd!SE't'°metno one, and'saw no birds nor beasts. [38th.J Halting-place of the Quilolo of the Cazembe, Muir from which we started at six in the morning ; crossed a narro^ river named Mulonga Amcula, which runs into the river Lualaba. On leaving the said farm Muire asked ua.Jbjc./a presentj^_J/V e gave him twenty small white bugles (missanga &e (Janudo)7with which he was contented, s^ngJje^cftuLiJiot-piass I3|i for Eoore as. he. ..had given us nothing. Continuing our mari^h we came to the desert-lodging named Quiana Acananga, nea\ a running stream, son or tributary to the said river Mulauga (Mulonga ?) Amcula. Reached said lodging at two in the after noon, without rain. Marched with the sun as before. Met several people coming from the salt district, going to Muata hianvo. Saw nothing new. [39th.] Desert-lodging, Quiana Acananga. Set out from this at two in the morning ; crossed no river, and during the march we came to another desert-lodging named Ma,bobela, near a very small stream. Reached this at four in tE^aftef- noon ; Jbajjt .near th,e,sam_e streamlet. Marched with the sun as before. Met no people, and saw many zebras, who were pasturing [40th.] Desert-lodging of Mabobela. Started at cockcrow. Crossed nn river.. During the journey came to the place of a iUacLftajnsaOiuil^^ Salina (saJjt.dis,ti;iet) Quigila ; we arrived there at two in the afternoon ; spoke with the people of the farm about our journey to King Cazembe Caquinhata. Thex.aaaffiere.d.,it, was very fortunate to see white -pePljlei., whom_ they,^,a,l] M.uziing.QS„£Qming, ftprn ApSPla. We lodged in their houses. Marched with the sun in our front. Saw many birds named Hundas, a sort of duck. [41st.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Buibui, we p 2 212 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. started therefrom at six o'clock in the morning ; continuing our journey, we came to and crossed the river Lualaba by canoe * this river is about forty fathoms wide. We arrived at the great farm of the Quiburi, uncle of Cazembe, lord of the salt district (Salina) Quegila ; he received us with great pleasure and con sideration, lodging us in the houses of his Quilolos. We gave I to Quiburi a present of blue "^ronealha " and two beirames of ash-coloured J).eads ; at ther^iffT" We gave fifty "beads'TTf-same" ' blue " roncalha." We reached this place at four in the afternoon. Met several of Quiburi's people going to fish in the above river. Saw a great number of wild cattle and small game. He gave us as his guests a leg of wild bull, t^y nnixmws of .^ugh or. -.pijiSte. two_^ sangas of A16 de^Jjucu, called Caxai ; he informed us that there ""^'as' in" Cazembe a white man intending to go to Angola, with letters from the Governor of Tette, who had died in Cazembe. (42nd.) Lodging at the farm of Quiburi of the Cazembe; left therefrom at three in the afternoou. Passed no river. We marched down the course of the . Lualaba, : during the march we came to tha^desert-lodging, its name not known, near a stream called Cbafim, which run"s"'in!o" the Lualaba. We reached this place at midday, without rain. Marched with the sun in our front. Built on the other side, near the said river, Sai^.a^reat many animals,-— zebras, wild-cattle, muquetes^&c. [43rd.] Desert-lodging near the river Chafim. Set out from this place at five in the morning, and crossed no river. During the journey we came to another desert-lodging, near a. stream named Bacassacala ; reached this lodging at two in the afternoon, without rain. Built on the east of the same stream. Marched with the sun as before ; met nothino-. [44th.] Desert-lodging, Bacassacala. Left this at six in morning. Crossed no river. During the march Ave came to another desert-lodging near a narrow stream, the name of it not known. Arrived there at noon, without rain. Marched with the sun as before in our front. Built on the other side of, and near said stream. Met no one ; saw nothing rare. [45th.] Desert-lodging. Started therefrom at six in the morning. Crossed a narrow stream. Continuing our march, we reached the top of a hill, tlte..huis of the slaves of Q,uiburi being- seen in the distance. Reachedrthis lodgiiig at "tw in "the after noon, with the sun as before. Built on the other side of the said stream, without rain. Met no one ; saw no animals. ROUTE JOURNAL OP P. J. BAPTISTA. 213 [46th.] Desert-lodging on the top of the hill. Left this place at five in the morning. Crossed three narrow streams, names not known. During the march we came to the place of the Quilolo of the Quiburi, named after the country Camungo.** We did not find him in the farm, but only his "sons," he having gone to the chase ; _b^J^^ffn§.'^jaa.de- ua.l.pdge in their ''^"'.L"f?L "^^'^f^ ^^^^' nountRjija^JoT^i^he^uide tiK , had sent with,,]^s,_aail.J8'hO- came in the Cazembe's. interest. We arrived in this place at noon, without rain. Marched with the sun in our front. Met two of Quiburi's blacks, loaded with provisions of millet and haricot beans for seed for the said | ijuiburi. Saw no birds nor animals of any novelty. [47th.] Lodging at the farm of Camungo. Set out at seven in the morning. Crossed a narrow stream, name not known, i Continuing our march we came to the desert-lodging, and_when we began buijdmg^.r,§i,ifi4'^l > huilt close to the other.- side of a narrow river, name not known. We came to this desert-lodging at two in the afternoon. Marched with the sun as before in our front. At midnight two lions coming Jttsar the camp on the other side oi_tM_^TX^ex roared through .all - ¦MM i.ii I fiyiiijiiw.ii iw 1111.11 i-ir ¦iiiiirii[ 11' -I -in-f-^ - «- - O ^ .jhe most blessed night, causing us to lose our r.gst ¦; buUsaih- 4Tn''Tl''iii''!tifeir,.r,.ffr ^-i I .^nWi?tt^if-HiwTOmiY»i.iBJr.i»r^ii-i I I ii~,iiira-,..,j^,^,i.,ni,i,„i,i|„„,|Mi.£,iiii.n . hianvo. We did not see him, as he took a dilterent route. 'We put up at the lodgings of the said ambassador, named Ca.- buita Capinda ; the huts of the Quilolo of the Cazembe, named, atglEtllfie. land-fashion, Amgala, being distant half a league, and near the river Ameula (Ancula ?) four fathoms wide, at the other side of which we arrived at 2 p.m. without rain. We marched with the sun in our front. Met .with seven blacks, -dealers in salt.-whoL-Aaere-^QinpL-.to buy provisions in the said. gS^^lagg. Saw eight animals named inuquetes. who passed oFany kin(' Saw no birds oFany kind. [49th.] Lodging at the ambassador's, Cabuita Capenda, and lands of the Quilolo Ampala, from which we started at six in the morning. Followed up the river Ameula (Ancula ?). Crossed a narrow stream on foot. During the march came to another lodging of the said ambassador in the desert, on this side and near the river Ameula. We occupied said lodgings. 214 ROUTE JOURNAL OP P. J. BAPTISTA. Reached there at noon without rain. Marched with the sun as before. Met no one, and saw nothing new. [50th.] Desert-lodging, near the river Ameula. Started at six in the morning. Crossed two narrow streams, and during the march we came to the farm of the son of the Quilolo named --Pande, the same called, after the land-fashion, Muana Auta. We did not speak with hirn, he having gone to his father's "Banza." We occupied the old huts of the blacks, the Senzalas (negro quarters) being a short distance off, near this side of the river called Rilomba. We reached this place at noon without rain. Marched with the sun as before, and met no one. It being three o'clock in the afternoon, I went out hunting, and shot a deer. The guide's slaves, who came with him from the farm of the Quiburi, found a wild bull which a ' lion had killed, and had only eaten a part of the inside and the rump. Saw nothing else worthy of note. [51st.] Lodging of the farm of Muana Auta. Left this place at five in the morning. Crossed the small river Quimana, and during the march came to the Banza of said Quilolo Pande, whom we did not see on the day of our arrival : he only sent a message to our guide, Cutaguaseje, saying he was occupied i^'ith Cazembe's messengers, and that when he was more quiet we should see him. We arrived at said Banza at two in the after noon, and built near a narrow river called Murucuaxi, but on the other side of it. Marched with the sun as before, and met no one. [52nd.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Pande. Started at six in the morning without rain. Crossed two narrow streams. During the journey we came to the place of his NgoUa BoUe, named Cahiombo Camara, with whom we did not speak on the day we arrived. Only two blacks came to see us, but we treated of nothing with them : the huts were some distance off. We arrived at this place at two in the afternoon, and lodged in the lodgings of Cazembe's ambassador, Cabuita. Marched with the sun in our front. Met no one. [53rd = 56th in the former diary, p. 182.] Lodging at the farm of Cahiombo Camara. Started from hence at ..cockcrow. Crossed the river, near which we passed the night. During the march we came to th^, desert;bdgmg:.jiamM.. Quidasa, on this side of and near a river, whose name I do not know. We reached this lodging at midday, and while commencing to ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 215 build, rain fell. Marched with the sun in our front ; crossed a river-plain, and saw a very large herd^f zebras. Met no one. [54th.] Resting-place of Quidaxi. Started at 6 a.m. Crossed a narrow muddy river, and, continuing our march, came to the old farm of the Quilolo of Lucongi, without rain ; built near a narrow stream, name not known. Reached this place at two in the afternoon. Marched with the sun as before. Met no one ; saw no bfrds nor beasts of any kind. [55th.] Desert-lodging of the old farm of Lucongi, from which we started at seven in the morning without rain. Crossed no river, and during the march came to the new farm of Luncongi, on the other side of the river Luviri, which we crossed by canoe ; this river is about twelve fathoms wide, and runs into the river Luapula. We lodged in the huts of the ".Senzalas " (negro quarters). We reached this place at four in the aiteriiooh. VV e spo^e with the owner of the said huts about our intention of going on to King Cazembe, by order of the Muatahianvo : the said Luncongi replied that it was ^ very good. Marched with the siiil as -before •' met' no one. - ¦ [56th.] Lodging at the farm of Luncongi. Started at six in the morning. Crossed two rivers, their names unknown to me, which run into the river Luviri. During our journey we came to the desert-lodging near said Luviri, having followed down its course. Reached said desert at three in the afternoon. Built in the rain. Marched with sun in our front. Met no one, saw neither bird nor animal of any kind. [57th.] Desert-lodging. Started from this place at cock crow, without rain. Crossed no river, and, continuing our march, came to the farm of the Macota of the Quilolo Muaxi. Spoke with him about the journey we were making to Cazembe. "We reached this place at three in the afternoon. Built near and on the other side the river Mufumbe. Met no one ; saw nothing new. [58th.] Lodging at the place of the Macota of Muaxi. Started at six in the morning. Crossed no river, and came to the farm of the said Quilolo Muaxi ; talked with him about our journey : he replied, that King Cazembe already knew of our coming. Reached this farm at noon, without rain. We lodged in the houses of his people, the Banza of said Muaxi ij being a little distance off. Marched with the sun in our front. Met no one, and saw neither bird nor animal of rarity. 216 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. [59th.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Muaxi, left at five in the morning; crossed a narrow stream, name unknown. During the march we came to the desert-lodging near a small river with stony bed. Reached this desert at noon. Marched with the sun as before. Built on the other side near the said river. Met three blacks going to the farm of Muaxi to buy salt. Saw nothing new. [60th.] Desert-lodging. Left this at cockcrow ; crossed five narrow streams. We are approaching the great hill named Cunde Irungo. During the march we crossed the river named Gavula Cungo, which is about seven fathoms wide, with water up to our waists. It runs into the river Luapula. Reached said desert-lodging at noon, without rain. Built near and on the other side of the river before named. Met some people coming from Cazembe, going to the farm of the Muaxi ; they gave us no news. Marched with the sun as before. [61st.] Desert-lodging near the river Cavnla Cungo. Started therefrom at six in the morning ; passed no river, marched in the direction of the same hill, Cunde Irungo. Continuing our march we came to another desert halting-place near the river called the son (or tributary) of the river above mentioned. Reached this lodging at four in the afternoon, without rain. Lodged in the huts of the other travellers on the other side. Marched with the sun in our front. Met no person whatever. [62nd.] Desert-lodging of Cunde Irungo. Started at seven in the morning; marched to the top of the hill Cunde Irungo, crossed two small streams. During the march we came to another desert-lodging near the streamlet and the hill before mentioned. Arrived at noon, in rain. Built by the side of the stream. Met no one ; saw nothing at all new or rare. [63rd = 67th in the former diary, p. 184.] Desert-lodging of the hill Cunde Irungo. Started at seven in the morning ; crossed a river named Lutipuca, six fathoms wide. During the march we came to another desert-lodging near a stream whose name I do not know. We arrived at midday ; marched last with the sun on our right side. Met no one ; saw no birds nor animals. I _ [64th.] Desert-lodging. Started at cockcrow. Crossed no river. Continuing our march we came to the lodging near the river Lutipuca before named, and marching down with this ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. 217 river we arrived at noon, without rain. Journeyed with the sun as before. Met no one. [65th.] Desert-lodging. Started at six in the morning. During the march we came to the farm of the Quilolo Jlucha- quita, of the Cazembe. Spoke with him about our journey. He said he was very pleased to see Muzungos from Angola. He sent us to lodge in his people's houses. Reached this place at two in the afternoon. Met no person whatever. i66th.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Muchaquita. Started at cockcrow. We marched across a magnificent dry river- plain, no water whatever. It was about ten leagues in length, and was full of various animals, zebras, empacassas (wild cattle), deer, stags, and many other animals~whose names I do not know. Continuing our march, we came to the farm of another Quilolo, named after the land Muachico, near that of his Macota named Quiocola, the latter being some little distance from Muachico. We spoke with him about cur journey, that we were going to visit the King Cazembe. We reached said farm at two in the afternoon, without rain. Marched with the sun on our right. Saw no one. [67th.] Halting-place at the farm of Muachico. Started at seven in the morning. Crossed the river-plain before men tioned on the western side, and passed over the river Luapula by canoe. For the services of the boatmen we gave them a £^ggg»(BWa65.g£^j;^^':^t£3»-i^th, thji^tyrtlxtfifi tjsadaj^LsMtajxiii;. calha, and one beirame of "pata.Yar."_hfiads. Said river is about " fifty'l'athoms wiSeTmore or lessT^Kviiig crossed this stream, we came afterwards to the farm of the Quilolo, Lord of tha Port, named, after the land, Amtapo Aquilala. Arrived at this farm at four in the afternoon. Met no one. Marched with the sun on our right side, and built some distance from the farm. [68th.] Lodging of the farm of Amtapo Aquilala. Left this halting-place at 6 a.m. ; passed no river, descended along the river Luapula. During the journey we came to the farm of Cazembe's sister, named, according to land-fashion, Pemba- femia : she directly requested we would occupy the houses of he?^ Quilolos. We spoke to her about our undertaking; that we were proceeding to her brother, the King Cazembe. She said Muatahianvo's sending messengers from Angola pleased her much : similar messengers had never appeared in the Cazembe's lands before. She presented us with four moitetes of flour and four fresh fish. We arrived here at two in the after- 218 ROUTE JOURNAL OF P. J. BAPTISTA. noon, having marched with the sun on our right. Met with no one. [69th.] Lodging at the farm of the Cazembe's sister, Pemba. Set out at seven in the morning, without rain. Still marched down the river, crossed a narrow stream two fathoms wide, running into the same Luapula. During the march we came to the farm of the Quilolo named Murumbo. Arrived at noon. Met no one. Marched with the sun on our right. Lodged in the houses of the farm. Saw neither birds nor beasts. [70th.] Lodging at the farm of the Quilolo Murumbo. Started at cockcrow, and, descending with the Luapula on the left, we crossed -two rivers, the Lufubo and the Capueje, running into said Luapula. During the journey we came to the -farm of the Catuata^ who marched in our company, named according" to laruf fashion ^j^ssacSQE7~near -the river, three fathoms wide, named Gonna/'^We'went into the houses of said ,Catuata. We reached this place at 2 p.m., without rain. Marched with the sun as before, and met no person whatever. [71st.] Lodging at the farm of Quissacanhi, near the river Gonna. Started at 5 A.M. ; crossed two running streams of small width, and during our march came to the farm of the black named Capunque, near the river Belengi, four fathoms wide, which runs, into the Luapula. Arrived at three in the after noon. Met a great many people coming from the Cazembe's great farm. Marched with the sun as before on our right ; saw no animals. [72nd.] Lodging at the farm of Capunque, near the river Belengi. Started at six in the morning ; crossed no river, and continuing our march we came to the city of the Quilolo of Cabola, near the river named Cannegoa, three fathoms wide, which runs into the river Mouva. Arrived at four in the afternoon, and halted two days by order of said Cazembe. Marched with the sun on our right. Met a great many people coming from Cazembe's great farm. Saw nothing of any novelty or importance. [73rd.] Halting-place at the farm of the Quilolo Cabola, near the river Cannegoa. Started at eleven in the morning, crossed no river, passed Senzalas, and during the journey we came to the capital of King Cazembe. Having come down a,.stately_ ^iverr.plain caLled_Mg!iya* near which is built the said Cazembe's "city, we reached the Banza at midday, and occupied the DAYS' JOURNEY FROM MUA'J^HIANVa^OJdyc^RYa -.^9^ jbouse of the keeper .of his gates, "najied.,^ Qj^jj.biry Quitap^bp ^ _^uiam'acungol Recei-yihgword by his page that as a signal "^01 "our arrival in these dominions we should discharge what ^ guns we could, as it was a great pleasure to him to see people in his lands from Angola, a thing of which he had not thought of, and which was very fortunate for him, as heir to the deceased Cazembe Hunga Amuronga, we discharged three guns, and he replied from within his walls with one, all being ^ astonished at our coming, and overjoyed among themselves. He sent us a quantity of (manioc) flour, meat, fresh and dried fish, and A16, treating us with great hospitality all the time we re mained there. He also enabled us to reach the Rivers of Senna."?? During the journey w^.were bq]tfid |,wp,Tif.y-|,yf^ idfiy^j and on the march seventy-three.* """¦¦^'"" i^isigned) Pedeo Joao Baptista. (Countersigned) Antonio Nogueiea da Rooha. [No. 3.] Route of P. J. Baptista from the Cazembe to Te-ttein. 1811 has nol - been given here. "" -¦ ¦ - - [No. 4.] Numbee of Days' Joueney eeom tub Muatahianvo to the Faie of Mucaey : — Days. From the Muss-umba of the Muatahianvo to the farm of the Camata Camunga 1 From the Camata to Cacenda 2 From Cacenda to Gongo 3 From Gongo to the river Luiza 4 From the river Luiza to the farm of Quissenda 5 From Quissenda to Milemba 6 From Milemba to the Desert 7 From the Desert to the river L-uigi . 8 From the river Luigi to Cavenga 9 From Cavenga to Canssuida 10 From Canss-uida to the farm of the people of Mo-micapelle . . 11 From Capelle, crossing the river L-uhia by canoe, and to the farm of the Fumo Campeo 12 From the Fumo Campeo to the farm of the Muene Canceze . 13 From Canceze to the deserted farm Mutembo ... .14 From Mutembo to the farm of the Quilolo Quirtrngo . . .15 From the Quirimgo to the Desert . . .... 16 From the Desert to another Desert 17 From the Desert to Dembue 18 From the Dembue to the Desert near " Quiana of the water " . .19 From Quiana to the farm of the Muene Rifunda Garga (Ganga ?) . 20 From the Muene Eifunda to near the river Cacamuca ... 21 * The former diary (pp. 169-188) gives seventy-eight days ; but it includes various halts. — R. F. B. 220 DAYS' JOURNEY FROM BOMBA TO MUCAEY. ' Days. From the river Cacamuca, crossing the large river Cassais by canoe, to the farm of the boatmen, having passed the old farm of the Chaoab-umby, to the farm of his son, Soana Mona . . 22 From the Soana Mona, crossing the new farm of the Chacabungi, near the river Caemba 23 From Caemba to another farm, Maluvo . . ... 24 From Mal-uvo to the farm of the sister of the Chacabimgi, named Moarihianva, near the river Lualele 25 From the river Lualele to the farm of the M-uene Fanna ... 26 From the Muene Fanna crossing a second time the (Desert) river Lualele 27 From the river Lualele to the farm of the Chacaluilo . . .28 From the Chacaluilo to another farm of the Chacabuita ... 29 From the Chacabuita to the .Desert 30 From the Desert to the farm of Muene Cavanda . . . 31 Prom Cavanda to the farm of the Muana Muilombe .... 32 From Muana Muilombe to the farm Chabanza of the Chacabungi, where the lands of the Muatahianvo terminate ... 33 From the Chabanza to the Desert 34 From the Desert to another Desert .... . . 35 From the Desert to the Desert near the river Luemba ... 36 From the river Luemba to the Desert ... . . 37 From the Desert to the river Banza, Desert 38 From the river Banza to near a small river, the name not known to me 39 From the small river we followed up the river Quihubue, Desert . 40 Jrom the Desert we crossed said river Quihubue .... 41 From the Quihubue to the Desert, near to the other side of the small river ... 42 From the Desert, near the river Quihubue, to the farm of the people Quibonca of the Moana Gana Quisengue 43 From the Quissengue to the farm of the Inna Fumo .... 44 From the Inna Fumo crossed the river Quicampa, Desert . . 45 From the Desert to the people of the Bumba and farm of the Xatumba 46 From Xatumba to the farm of the Xacacequelle, near the principal site of the Bumba 4.7 From the Bumba to the river Quango 48 From the river Quango crossed the river Quafo, Desert . .' 49 From the Q-uafo to the Desert Massangagila 50 PYom Massangagila crossed the river Jombo to the far-m Pepumdi Songo 51 From the Pepumdi to the Muenene Quibungo 52 From Muenene Quibungo to another Munene Toro . '. ". '. 53 P^om Munene Toro to the farm of the son of Bomba, supposed "name Joaquim 54 From Joaquim of the Bomba to the Banza of the said Bomba '. '. 55 Number op Days' Joueney feom the Chief Bomba to THE Faie of Mucaey : — 1 From the great farm of the Bomba to the river Cuie . From the Cuie to near the farms of his people . '2 From those farms to another farm ... '3 From the latter farm to the Desert . '. 4 p. J. BAPTISTA'S REPORT OP JOURNEY. 221 Days. From the Desert to the farm of a son of the Bomba, named Hiemba Munda 5 'From Hiemba to the farm of the chief Pundi Hiabonga ... 6 From the Pundi to the chief Motende 7 From the Motende to the Capacala 8 From the Capacala to the farm of the Quissoca, sister of tho Bomba 9 From the Quissoca to near the river Jombo 10 From the Jombo crossed to the other side of it 11 From the Jombo to the farm Souveta of the Cabita Catempo . . 12 From the Cabita to the farm of the Mocampa 13 From the Mocampa to the Desert 14 From the Desert to the farm of Genzo, brother of the Banda Gongo . . . , , 15 From the Gongo to the Desert 16 From the Desert to the Quileculo and farm of the Quihoata . . 17 From the Quihoata to the farm of the son of the Cabunxi and Catembo, named Cuinhiba 18 From the Cuinhiba to the farm of the Camba, brother of the Quibenda 19 From the Camba to the farm of the Quibenda . . .20 From the Quibenda to the Marimbe 21 From Marimbe to the Fair of Mucary 22 (Signed) Pedro Joao Baptista. (Countersigned) Antokio NoGUBmA da Eocha. [No. 5.] In the name of God, Amen. Eeminiscences of the Departuke eeom the Muatayanvo to the Dominions of the Cazembe Caquinhata, and«sdia± transpired aath the Quilolos whom we found pn_t,be-' road beyond the State and Kingdom of Angola; an3nhe'''re'sT that I saw in these territories, unth we reached the lands of Cazembe, by the mystery of the yir^in Onrlady; and of our costlv departure from said Pumbo to the town of Tete, bearing a letter for the Governor of the said town, despatched by my master, Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco Honorato da Costa, Director of the Fair of Mucary, and arrival of a Pombeiro of the ^.^hief Captain Gon9alo Caetano Pereha, named, after the country-fashion, '^ Marungue, now come to conduct us from the Pumbo of the Cazembe, who brought goods to buy ivory, slaves, and green stones (malachite) -^ how the same Marimgue released us from said place, and with whom we started from thence, after being delayed there four years, having \- started for Tete and turned back twice; and it was in the yeaz ,^r 1810 that we finally started for the town of Tete. On Sunday, twenty-second of May of said year, we started from the Mufumba, of Muatayanvo, and came to' the farm of the Cacoata, named Cutaqua,cexe, who acted as our guide. 'We were detained in this place sixteen days, caused by his per forming his rjtgs, and on Tuesday, seventh July, we started, ""^OOTi TEe™ march passed the Quilolos and peoples of the said Muatayanvo, until we came to the site of the Quilolo named, 222 p. J. BAPTISTA'S REPORT OF JOURNEY. according to the land-fashion, Chamuginga Mussenda, who owns allegiance both to Muatayanvo and Cazembe, because, when the last Muatayanvo and Cazembe marched forth to subjugate the country in which the Cazembe's lands are situated, they left this Quilolo Chamuginga Mussenda near the river Luburi, to receive all persons coming from the Muatayanvo or the ^Cazembe, in procuring all kinds of provisions for the use of all people coming from either potentate. This farm is the boundary of the lands of the Muatayanvo on that side; crossing said river Luburi on the other side of it, are found the people of the Cazembe, who subject themselves to the Quilolo of Cazembe— -Quibi, 'who was in the river-plain of the Salina called Quigila, wlijijSMBeaeatl^^ead. At the farm of Chamu- gingaTJfS^da alUravellers buy provigjflns of ,gmGfeiifiUf> in order to go and buy salt and mucongos of straws-cloth., a few-. made-up articles, and waxT When we sFaf ted from this farm of (3haffiug]nga Mussenda, we travelled across others with valleys and hills, and saw, on the summit of the hills, stones which appear txue (green ?"). and w]^er.eike^d4g4;hs,copi3er ; in the midst of this country "iswhere they make the bars. 'Ijiere are two proprietors of the 'l&^z^^,;!' the first is near the road we crossed, named after the land (in country fashion) Muiro, and the other is called Canbembe. Those owners are the head smiths, who order the bars to be made by their " sons " and their own " macotas" (slaves), and pay such bars as tribute to the Quiburi, orhis successor, for that Lord of the Salina to send them to the Muatayanvo, or to whoever the Muatayanvo sends for them. These two proprietors were also at one time sovereigns of the lands, as well as owners of the mines left them by their predecessors. They were, however, acquired by Cazembe by force, so that the lands are now in sub jection to both the Muatayanvo and the Cazembe, having been conquered by the late Quilolo Quiburi, Lord of the Salina. Quiburi was a maternal r'eJafion of th^'Cazembe's,"who""had appointed him to govern the Salina and have the manage ment of sending the tribute of salt, and the goods of the Muata yanvo ; also to receive visitors or travellers who go from the Muatayanvo to the Cazembe. He sent the mulambo by his Cacoata to the Muatayanvo, to arrange with the said Lord of the Salina, that, in addition to the tribute presents of stuff, beads, salt, and other things, which they buy from the salt- dealers, should be delivered to the Cacoata to take to the Muata yanvo. The Salina Quigila is near the river Lualaba, on this side of it. On the further side of the said river is established the Lord of the Salina, and in this same country there are no provisions of manioc-flour to be obtained, and what httle there p. J. BAPTISTA'S REPORT OF JOURNEY. 223 is is bought with the goods that come from the Muatayanvo. In the Pumbo only millet, large haricot beans, large maize, and J^mcu, which they call Caixai, are to be obtained, and even these come lirom such retired" farms that it is difficult to obtain a mouthful of meal or any description of food, and very costly. One ,yust be provid^d_with CT beads, or snrtifi othpx..2£!J£ls. j-Ji^iy-3ia!lTJfi^]]||g[|]^^TbTA "Jhey _do. not cultivate iganioc. it not being the custom of the country: the previous sovereigns of j^j_|Mid did not grow this .pjaj^uction, and this Decame the genemTKaluT in the said Pumbo. There is nolMiig tliey "ranT make"^se of 'for- dr6ss"f "men clothe themselves in Mussamba basts, and women buy straw-cloth from the people before named in exchange for salt ; that is, in the dry season. In the rainy season, when the salt-traders do not come, they are put to great straits, and the traders cannot obtain the salt at such times, the river-plain itself being flooded. In order to get the salt they cut the straw and burn it ; after which thef^ dissolve the ashes in water, and throw the lye into small pan^ which they make ; then they boU it, and this they exchange for wbat. thqy gnusider wealthy namely, woollen cloth, Indian ti^Ufig, beads, and straw-cloths'. The si^tlis (H'^rreirps) also" exchange their bars for liour and other provisions that arg. valued. From the lands of the smiths and the Salina to the other side of the river Lualaba, where the governor of the Salina, and the other Quilolos on the route to Cazembe also live, they cannot rely upon a sufficient quantity of provisions for travellers. Only millet is to be had ; and even at the proper time for cultivation it is expensive to obtain this, there not being sufficient men to carry provisions, manioc beans, and necessary things, which come as lar as the river Lualaba. Thus they risk losing their lives from hunger. ^ """Affer'liSTfng' crossed the Luarula we reached on the other side of the river a farm of the sister of Cazembe named Pemba, and this lady received us with much consideration. She was much astonished to] see us, and pleased with Muatayanvo for having sent whites, called by them Mugungos (Muzungos), to visit her brother the Cazembe, a thing the previous Muata- yanvos had never done; that it was a blessing for her brother, Cazembe's successor, as they had no recollection of having been before visited by whites coming from the Muata yanvo to the Cazembe. On Wednesday, the 15th of December, she sent for us and told us that when her father, Cazembe Hunga, was living, a great number of white people, with much goods, had come in company of the (governor, and requested permission from the Cazembe to allow them passage to the Muatayanvo, and from the Muatayanvo to the fair of Cassange. 224 ' p. J, BAPTISTA'S EEPOET OP JOUENEY. The late Cazembe, however, did not grant the permission ; and it pleased God that he (the Governor before mentioned) should »die in the Cazembe's lands ; the colonists and soldiers who had come in the said Governor's company then returned. (She also told us) that the Cazembe himself was well, and that in the said mussumba (place) there was a soldier who had letters to go to Angola. She sent directly to inform her brother Cazembe ¦