li of some of'
-^Inal toi''bo"ars and town:

mea

5(i ed.wifh aiidition?.: /

¦4.

DESCRIPTION
OF SOME OJTHE PRINCIPAL
•HARBOURS AND TOWNS
THE KRIME A,
COMPILED FROM VARIOUS AUTHORS.
THIED EDITION,
WITH ADDITIONS, AND A PREFACE,

BY

MONTAGUE GOEE, ESQ.

LONDON: .
JAMES RIDGWAY, PICCADILLY.
1854.

PEEFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

Since the former editions of this pamphlet were
published, the Krimea has been the scene of g'reat
events J and two g^lorious, thoug'h dearly bought
victories, have added fresh lustre to the arms of
Eng-land. But it is plain that we have entered on
an arduous contest j a contest, indeed, just and
rig-hteous ; but at the same time one which calls for
our most strenuous and unremitting- exertions ; Toto
certandum est corpore regni. It is plain that in the
Krimea the severest and most deadly strug-g-le will
take place. There are then one or two points con
nected with that country, which are not undeserving-
of attention at the present moment.
It is, of course, important, if we can, to prevent
the further arrival of Russian reinforcements j and
also to intercept the stores and provisions destined
for the Russian army. Now these reinforcements
and supplies can only arrive by the Isthmus of
Perekop ; by Kertch ; or by Ajrabat. With a view
then, both to the conquest of the Krimea, and to its
permanent retention, the occupation of these three
places appears to be of considerable importance.
Perekop has always been considered the portal of
the Krimea. It was called by the Tartars Or-

( (

IV
Gapy, or the Boyal Gate. " It is," says Demidoff,
" the entrance g-ate to the Government of Taurida,
" and the entrenchment by which the peninsula is
" closed and isolated." It is by this entrance that
the g-reater part of the reinforcements recently sent
to the army before Sebastopol have arrived.
Kertch is situated at the eastern extremity of the
Krimea. Its strait is so narrow that General Mac
intosh sug-g-ests that men and horses could be passed
over by means of rafts or lig-hters ; and that the
native horses could even be swum across, a distance
of several miles, astern of the boats. The possession
of Kertch and Anapa would, in his judgment,
ensure us the assistance of large bodies of irregtdar
cavalry. Whatever power is in possession of these two
places can obtain from the Caucasus, cattle, sheep,
and other supplies for its troops.
Arabat is situated at the end of the ridge of land
which separates the Sea of AzofF from the Dead Sea.
It was by this narrow road that the Russians under
Count de Larcy entered the Krimea in 1737 ; and
along it the produce of the colonies of the northern
coast, and even of the Don are now sent to Kertch.
The occupation of Arabat is, therefore, a subject
well worthy of attention.
Masters as we are of the sea, the possession of
Perekop, Kertch, and Arabat, would hermetically
close the Krimea against any inroads from Russia.
The strait of Kertch, and Sea of AzofF, owing to the

shallowness of their water, are not navigable except
by boats of very small draught of water. It may,
however, be a question whether gun-boats of this
description might not render valuable assistance in
intercepting the transport of ammunition and mili
tary stores, which goes on between the small har
bour of Taganrog and the Caucasus, in vessels
employed for that special service.
Much has been said about the climate of the
Kribaea ; and the position of our troops has been
sometimes described as advantageous ; as sheltered
by the Tauric mountains j and on a spot selected as
the residence of the Russian aristocracy, in con
sequence of its salubrity ; but this description cannot
apply to the heights above Sebastopol, but must
have reference to the narrow belt of land which
forms the southern coast" from Cape Saritch to
Theodosia. " At Cape Saritch," says Hommaire de Hell,*
" commences that magnificent line of coast, which
" its climate, its picturesque scenery, its luxuriant
" vegetation, and the splendid country residences of
" the nobility, have rendered so celebrated in our
" days." Pallas writesf in raptures of its " beautiful
" valleys, which are blessed with the climate of
'•' Les Steppes de la Mer Caspienne, Le Caucase, La Krimee, et
La Russie Meridionale ; Voyage fait 1838, par Hommaire de HelL
¦f Tableau Physique et Topographique de la Tauride, par
Pallas, Tire du journal d'un voyage fait en 1794.

VI

" Anatolia and Asia Minor ; valleys where the
" winter is scarcely felt ; where the crocuses and
" flowers of the spring shoot in February, sometimes
" in January ; where the oak often preserves its
" foliage fresh through the winter." Fruit trees of
all descriptions flourish there ; the mountain sides
are clothed with forests, which abound with game ;
and fish of various kinds may be caught on the coast.
But supposing- our army to be in possession of
this district ; as long as the Russians maintain a
considerable force at Bakchi-Sarai or Simpheropol,
it will be necessary to occupy and fortify the ap
proaches through the mountains from the latter
town to Alushta.
Of our success in this contest no reasonable doubt
can be entertained ; but we must not blind ourselves
to its difficulties. It is the part of real courage not
to be blind to dangers, but to estimate them at their
true value, and manfully encounter them. To take
a fortified town, unless it is thoroughly invested,
has always proved a work of considerable difficult}-.
Two very strong instances of this may be found in
the general war at the beginning of the 18th century.
First, in the siege of Verrua by the Due de Ven-
dome, in 1704 j and secondl}', in that of the siege of
the citadel of Turin by the Duke de la Feuillade, in
1 706; and again in more recent times in the example
of Flushing.* It would be unjust to those in com-
* For account of these sieges, see Notes to Jones' Account of
Sieges in the Peninsula, vol. 1, page 378.

Vll
raand of our forces to under-estimate the difficulties
which they have to surmount, and which under
Providence I feel assured they will triumphantly
conquer. The war in which we are engaged is a
noble and righteous one ; it is a war in behalf of the
independence of our ally ; in behalf of freedom ; in
behalf of civilization. It is a war hallowed by its
cause; as it cannot fail of being glorious in its
results. Our soldiers have fought with an heroism
seldom equalled, never surpassed ; and we may find
in the triumphs they have already achieved an
earnest of future victory ; and on those who remain
at home rests the sacred and imperative obligation
to send them whatever succours they may require.
At whatever cost, Russia must be stopped in her
career ; and must be taught that we will not allow
her ambitious projects to succeed. Russia, by her
conduct towards Turkey, trampled under foot all
regard for justice and international law ; and Eng
land can never sheath her sword till she has obtained
full and ample security for the future — and that
security can only be obtained by making our enemy
feel OUT fomer. We must not be cajoled by any
tardy and flimsy offers to negociate, which may now
be made ; nor allow ourselves to be amused by any
such idle devices ; but girding 'up our loins man
fully, this great nation, in conjunction with her
gallant ally, must carry on the conflict boldly and
vigorously ; and by our energetic eflbrts in war lay
the surest foundations of a safe and honourable

vin

peace, " The best way," said Mr. Canning, " to
" carry on any war is the way that will lead soonest
" to peace ; it is by vigour, not by forbearance and
" hesitation ; it is by exertions calculated to make
" an enemy feel and dread our power." I rejoice
to see the unanimity that pervades the country on
this subject. Let us only persevere in the same spirit,
disregarding all sacrifices ; ready to encounter, if need
be, any hardships ; each man resolved in his sphere
to contribute his best exertions to the common cause ;
and then we may rest assured of success.

HARBOURS AND TOWNS

OF

THE KRIMEA.

INTRODUCTION,

As it seems not unlikely that the Krimea may
soon be the scene of operations of the Anglo-French
•troops, I have given in the following pages a de
scription of some of the principal harbours of that
country; extracted from the works of Demidoff",
Marshal Marmont, and the Sailing Directions for
the Black Sea, published from the surveys made by
order of the British and other governments. My
object has been to comprise in a short and portable
form the information contained in those publications.
If it should be deemed advisable to make a descent
on the coast of the Krimea, and attack ' Sebastopol,'
I have no doubt that the same success will attend
such an enterprise as crowned the arms of England
in former years. Our soldiers of the present day
will prove themselves worthy descendants of those
who, under the immortal Wolfe, stormed the batte
ries of Louisburg, and scaled the Jirecipitous heights
of Abraham. The history of the sieg'es of the Pe
ninsular War holds out, too, a bright and cheering
example of the success of the British troops against
fortified places, even under adverse circumstances.
For " though the army in Spain was unattended by
B 9

4
" a single sapper or miner till late in 1813— though
" the works of a regular siege imperatively demand
" supplies of ordnance, ammunition, stores, and ma-
" terials, and a force of men infinitely greater than
" could by any possibility be collected together by
" the officers in the Peninsula ; and further require
" a time for their completion, which the vigilance
" and judicious arrangements of a superior enemy
" would not grant ;"* — yet under the guidance of
their illustrious commander the armies of Great
Britain surmounted every obstacle.
But let the warning words of the skilful officer I
have just quoted be borne in mind, " that it is of
" great moment to a state that sieges should be car-
" ried on in the best possible manner; that is, by a
" due union of science, labour, and force, be rendered
" not only short, but certain, and little costly in
" men."t I will only add that, whilst sensible ofthe import
ance of striking a hard and decisive blow against the
enemy, and feeling implicit reliance on the troops of
England under any circumstances, and under any
difficulties ; yet I hope that fiill confidence will be
reposed in the skill and judgment of the able officers
who command our forces, and th-at due allowance
will be made for the responsibilities under which
they act. If there was one feature more prominent
* Preliminary observations to Sir J. T. Jones' Journal of Sieges
in Spain, etc.
t Idem.

than another in the character of that illustr-ious man,
the late Duke of Wellington ; whose example should
be the guide and the pole-star of those to whom in
this or in succeeding ages the command of the armies
of England maj' be entrusted ; it was his great un
willingness to commit his army in uncalled-for bat
tles, or to risk without necessity the lives of his
soldiers. Thus, shortly before the battle of Sala
manca, although he had a favourable opportunity of
giving battle to Marmont, he declined to do so, be
cause he thought the victory would not compensate
for the necessary loss of life. " Depend on it," he
wrote to the Earl of Liverpool from Viseu, the 8nd
of April, 1810, " I a,ra not so fond as people imagine
" of fighting desperate battles ; if I was, I might
" fight one any da}^ I please. But I have kept the
" army for six months in two positions ; notwith-
•' standing their own desire, and that of the Allies,
" that I should take advantage of man}- opportuni-
" ties which the enemy apparently offered of striking
" a blow against them ; in some of which the single
"operation would certainly have been successful.
" But I have looked to the great result of our main-
" taining our position in the Peninsula ; and ^have
" not allowed myself to be diverted from it by the
" wishes of the AUies ; and probably of some of our
" own army ; that I should interfere more actively
" in some partial affairs."*
* Selections from Wellington's Despatches, by Gurwood, page
353.

It was by this combination of sound judgment,
with daring- boldness when fair opportunities for
striking did present themselves ; that he achieved
such glorious results. From his tomb he speaketh ;
and in his precepts he has left a legacy to his coun
try ; valuable at all times ; at none more so than the
present. I have alluded in the following pages to the
isthmuses of Perecop and Kertch ; and also to
the importance of Arabat. If these three points
were occupied, no supplies or reinforcements could
be sent to the Russian army at present in the
Krimea ; and all means of retreat to that army in
case of defeat would be cut off".

HARBOURS ON COAST OF KRIMEA.

BALAKLAVA.
" It is capable of being used as a safe anchorag*er
" for a great number of vessels, to which it would
" afford admirable shelter. In ancient times Balak-
" lava was known by the name of Simbolon or Cim-
" bolo. Strabo mentions it as a dependency of the
" Chersonese.''* "The entrance of the port is only of sufficient
" width to allow one vessel to pass at a time ; and a
" good look out should be kept to the wind ; for
" sometimes it comes quite unexpectedly in violent
"gusts from the interior of the harbour ; and is liable
" to run vessels against the shore ; where they will be
" in great danger. The harbour is of aij oblong
" form, running from North to South ; sheltered from
" the wind on all sides ; and surrounded by high
" mountains. The water is deep all over, and in
* Travels in the Krimea, and Southern Russia, by M. Anatole
de Demidoff, in 1837, published in 1853.

8
" some places there are eight and nine fathoms ;
" muddy bottom. This harbour is about twelve
" miles south of Sebastapol."*

YALTA.
" Yalta occupies the whole of the northern part
" of a very spacious bay, between Cape Nikita on
" the north ; and Cape Ai-Todor on the south.
" This coast, surrounded by beautiful landscapes, is
" perfectly sheltered on one side ; whilst on the
" other, it is exposed to the winds and heavy seas
" from the south-east. The port of Yalta will
•' therefore never be a maritime settlement of any
" importance ; it is one of those temporary shelters
" where sailors may cast anchor for a short time ;
" but could not, even at an enormous -cost, be made
" into a permanent harbour."t
" Vessels repair to this road for shelter when they
" meet with a north-easterly wind, while going to
" Theodosia, or the Strait of Kertch. A depth
" of 15 fathoms may be found at a distance of three-
" quarters of a mile from the shore, and close in to
" it there are three and four fathoms. This road is
" exposed from the S.S.W. to East." J
" This small town, situated on the coast, at the
" mouth of the Rekaffech, offers a good anchorage
* Sailing Directions for Black Sea, compiled from surveys made
by authority of British and other Governments, 1852.
t Demidoff's Travels. J Sailing Directions, etc.

" for trading vessels. A bend of the coast shelters
" it from westerly winds. A mole 270 feet long,
" the construction of which is commenced, and which
"is to be finished in two years, will protect it
" towards the south. Here will be the store-house
"for the products of the country; the magazines;
" and here goods will be shipped. Yalta cannot
^' fail to become a thriving place."*

THEODOSIA, OE KAFFA.
" The site upon which this city stands, is in the
" form of a crescent ; and slopes gradually upwards.
" It faces the rising sun, and commands a spacious
" roadstead. The winds from the east and south-
" east only, are to be feared by the merchant ves-
" sels anchoring before the city. The bottom is
" sufficiently firm to afford a good hold for anchors ;
" two wooden moles, and a number of boats are em-
" ployed in landing."'}'
" A low sandy shore is situated on the other side
" of Tekie ; and forms part of the great bay ; on the
" western side of which the town of Theodosia or
" Kaffa is built, at the foot of the last mountain of
" the southern coast of the Krimea. A reef of rocks
" runs out from Cape Theodosia, to about a cable's
" length into the sea ; and a lesser one runs off" the
* Marmont's Travels, 1834. f Demidoff's Travels.

10
" shore about a mile more to the north-westward ;
"the lazaretto and town of Theodosia lie to the
" westward of this. Vessels in pratique anchor at
"two cables' length fromthe town, in about nine
" fathoms water ; within a point of landon which are
" some store-houses; but those performing quarantine
" anchor before the lazaretto, in from eight to five
" fathoms water, at about a cable's length from the
" shore. The shore may be approached much nearer,
" if you go into a little bay to the westward of this
" point. The bottom holds well ; and is every where
" of stiff" mud. The road of Theodosia is sheltered
" on all sides but the east ; and is deemed to be the
" best in all southern Russia. The low shore to the
" northward may be approached pretty closely, if
" you are obliged to work in or out of the harbour,
" as the water continues deep."*
" Theodosia, known more recently under the name
" of Kaff"a, is one of the oldest towns of the Krimea.
" Founded by a colony of lonians, it received the
" name of Theodosia from Leucon, king of the Bos-
" phorus, who took it after a long siege. This prince,
" of whom history speaks with praise ; caused agri-
" culture to flourish in his dominions; and encou-
" raged trade by granting to the harbour of this
" town complete immunity from all duties. He
" saved Athens from a severe famine by sending to
" it a large supply of corn ; for which the freedom of
" that city was voted to him, and his descendants."
* Sailing Directions, etc.

11
" During the period of the lower empire, the
" Genoese established themselves at Theodosia; and
" bought its territory from the Khans of the
" Krimea. It became then the seat of a consider-
" able traffic, which extended as far as India, by the
" Caspian Sea and Astrakan. It acquired also great
" wealth and importance. The ruins which remain,
" and the extent of its walls, which it is easy to
" trace, give reason to suppose that its population
" never exceeded 100,000. It became, however,
" so renowned that the Pope, Clement YI, deemed
" it right to cause a crusade to be preached ; for the
" purpose of raising troops to protect it against the
" Turks. It passed into their power thirty years
" after the taking of Constantinople, Mahomet II.
" eff"ected its conquest in 1475.
" The neighbouring country is said to have been
" formerly rich, fertile, and beautiful; at present it
" is dreary, and not a tree is to be seen. The sur-
" rounding mountains might, with attention, be ren-
" dered productive. A lazaretto has just been
" established, where the arrangements are admirable.
' ' Count Woronzoff" takes much interest in the pre-
" servation of the public health; and in measures
" to prevent the return of the jtlague; which com-
" mitted such ravages in the Krimea a few years
" ago." " The population of Theodosia amounts at present
" to between seven and eight thousand ; it is one of
" the most considerable toMmsof the Krimea; and a

12
" place of trade, and of export for the products of
" the Peninsula ; but from its natural position it is
" not probable that this town will ever acquire great
" importance. A road, passable by carriages, leads
" to Simpheropol."*
Hagemeister, in his Report on the Krimea, pub-
fished in 1836, says, " The bay formed by the Black
" Sea at Theodosia is capable of giving shelter to a
" vast number of vessels, and is sheltered fi-om the
" wind in all directions save the east; and even
" when the wind is in that quarter, partial security
" is aff"orded by the promontory at the entrance of
" the gulf "t

KERTCH.
" At the eastern extremity of the Tauric penin-
" sula, in a deep bay, on whose shores the waves of
" the Armenian Bosphorus sink exhausted ; stands
" Kertch, occupying a considerable space. Along
" the sides of the bay there is a stone quay of
" spacious dimensions, covered with vast edifices;
" first among which are to be classed the residence
" ofthe Governor of Kertch ; and an immense build-
" ing partly occupied by the Customs Department,
" and partly used as a storehouse for goods. Un-
" fortunately, vessels are prevented bj"^ the shallow-
*' ness of the water in the ba}'^, from mooring
* Marmont's Travels.
t Hngemcister's Report on the Krimea, 1836.

13
" alongside this quay. They anchor at some distance,
" beneath the walls of the lazaretto, situated on
" that part of the shore, the waters of which, in
" consequence of the vicinity of the straits, are
" deeper, and aff"ord easier anchorage."*
" A trench, which extends north and south across
" the entire peninsula of Kertch, in the direction of
" its greatest breadth, has retained the name of the
" rampart of Akos ; it was dug as the last defence
" of the diminished kingdom of Bosphorus : this
" outwork only preceded by a few years the down-
" fall of this ancient poM^er. The rampart of Akos,
" no longer needed as a defence, now serves as a
" shelter and halting place for the caravans, which,
" in tempestuous weather, take up their station
" along it, ranging themselves to the east or to the
" west, according to the direction of the wind."f
" Kertch, which was a miserable village fifteen
" years ago, is at present a fine town, with a popu-
" lation of 3000 persons. The houses are elegant
" and handsome. The surrounding plains resemble
" the rest of the Krimea. They present a sombre
" aspect ; are dry ; and without trees. But the soil
" is fertile ; and labour alone is wanting- to render
" it productive. It is a rising celony, and contains
" all the elements of future prosperity ."t
" Kertch is built on the site of the ancient
" Panticapoea ; where Mithridates resided ; and
* Demidoff's Travels. t Demidoff's Travels.
J Marmont's Travels.

14
" where this illustrious enemy of Rome ended his
" career and his life  Till within a recent
" period Kertch was a desert ; at the present day
" it is a prosperous and rapidly improving town ;
" and will soon acquire importance, from its com-
^' merce  The population amounts to 3000
" (1834): the neighbouring country is dismal, moun-
'^ tainous, dry, without trees .... but the land is
" fertile, and nothing but labom- is required to
" render it productive."*

TAMAN.

" The island of Taman is washed by the Bos-
" phorus, the Black Sea, the Sea of Azoff", and the
'' Couban ; which flows into the Black Sea, after
" having served as the frontier line of the northern
" part of Circassia. This island is rich in pasturage ;
" it is little cultivated, from want of inhabitants ;
" but the land is very fertile. It is held by Cossacks,
" called those of the Black Sea.
" In the island of Taman there are a number of
" good horses ; and they are so abundant, that they
" are very cheap. Count de Witt boug-ht one of
" the best of them, with all its equipments, for 200
" francs."! If it should be intended to effect a landing at
Kaff"a in Kertch, it would be necessary, before
* Marmont's Travels. f Ibid.

15
making any movement into the interior of the
Krimea, to take possession of Arabat on the Sea of
Azoff"; in order to secure the flank and rear of the
advancing force ; and to prevent the Russians send
ing- reinforcements from the Sea of Azoff", or across
the neck of land which separates that sea from the
Putrid Sea.
" A fortress," says Demidoff", " still defended by
" good outworks and a ditch, though its interior is
" in ruins ; and a village, composed of ten houses
" facing one another, in the form of a street, occu-
" pying a space of ground which in central Europe
^' would suffice for a town containing' twelve thou-
" sand souls— such is Arabat. The fort is built on
" the sands between the Sea of Azoff" and the Dead
" Sea ; or Sivach, another name given to this great
" lake, but too justly meriting the characteristic
" epithet ; a sort of natural dyke, starting from the
" very foot of these ramparts, runs directly north-
" wards, between dashing waves on one side, and on
" the other stagnant and putrid waters, always
" emitting an horrible and poisonous stench. This
" narrow causeway is intersected towards the
" northern extremity by a canal, about an hundred
" metres long, forming a communication between
" the two seas, and is rather pompously designated
" a strait  The fortress of Arabat, taken by
" storm in 1768 bythe troops of Prince Dalgorouki,
" consists of a polygon flanked by six-sided works,
" having in some measure the appearance of bas-

16
" tions. The ruins of a postern gate^ opening
" towards the Sea of Azoff", are still visible; the
" principal entrance faces the south. On the left
" flank of this place of strength is a line of defences,
" extended to a sufficient distance to guard the
" passage as far as where the Putrid Sea begins to
" acquire a certain depth  The produce of
" the colonies, of the northern coast, and even of
" the Don, comes in caravans along the narrow
" promontory of Arabat, to Kertch."*

EUPATORIA OE KOSLOFF.
The before-mentioned harbours are aU to the south
or south-east of Sebastopol. The port of Eupatoria
or Koslofi^ of which we now proceed to speak, is
situated to the north. " It was formerly," says
Demidoff^, " a powerful Tartar city; its beautiful
" mosques, from their twenty lofty minarets, com-
" manded the surrounding countrj^ ; its baths, its
" bazaars, and its workshops made it the fortunate
" rival of Baghtcheh-Saria ; and of Kara-Sou-
" Bazar ; the productive cities of the empire of the
" Khans. Its port was capable of receiving- a con-
" siderable number of vessels entering with cargoes
" from Constantinople. It is true that the port is ill
" protected from the weather ; and sometimes dans-e-
" rous; but these unfavourable circumstances were
* Demidoff's Travels. Vide Note A in Appendix.

17
" not of a kind likely to deter the sailors of the East ;
'' who consoled themselves under all afflictions by
" exclaiming, ^It was written !'*
" We must add, at the risk of meeting with oppo-
" nents, that the climate of this part of the coast,
" and the proximity of the salt lakes of Sak, must
" prove injurious to the inhabitants of Kosloff": for
" even admitting, as we do, the curative qualities
" ascribed to the mud of the lakes, we cannot con-
" elude, thence, that their exhalations are equally
" beneficial to the public health. During our stay
" at Kosloff" we had opportunities of observing
" amongst the inhabitants numerous symptoms of
" endemic fevers. The approach of the equinox,
" however, and the instability of the temperature,
" produce in many other localities the same re-
" sults."t " The baj'^, named Dalmatia, lies between Capes
" Loukhoul and Kosloff^ in which the shore is clean,
'' and the water continues deep. At the north-
" western part of the bay, is situated the town of
" Eupatoria or Kosloff", which is a Tartar city, in-
" habited almost exclusively by Krim Tartars; f^^ith
" a Lazaretto, Custom House, several fine mosques,
" and a Tartar College. The great mosque, built
" in 1152, is the finest building in the Krimea, and
" much admired for eleg-ance, extent, and soli-
" dity. The bay, being open and exposed, the mari-
" time commerce of the city is very inconsiderable.
* Demidoff's Travels. t Ibid.

18
" About seventeen versts from Eupatoria, is a
" famous salt lake, with mud-baths ; which enjoy a
" high reputation ; and attract invalids from every
" part of the empire." *
" Kosloff" is situated on the site of the ancient
" Eupatoria ; so called after the surname of Eupator,
" which was given to Mithridates. Catherine II.,
" who was fond of reviving the great events of past
" history, restored its ancient name ; and the new
" town, in which no trace of antiquity remains, is
" called indiff"erently Kosloff" or Eupatoria. Its
'' rich and trading population is entirely composed
" of Caraite Jews, and Tartars : it amounts to about
" 12,000. Kosloff" is one of the principal towns of
" the Krimea, and one of those in which most busi-
" ness is transacted."-]"
The beach between Eupatoria and Sebastopol is
said to off"er great facilities for landing, both at the
mouth of the River Katcha, and at Cape Soukoul,
which is at the mouth of the Alma.

SEBASTOPOL.

Oliphant, in his work on the Russian Shores of the
Black Sea, says, " However well fortified may be
" the approaches to Sebastopol by sea, there is
" nothing whatever to prevent any number of troops
" landing a few miles to the south of the town, in
* Sailing Directions, etc. f Marmont's Travels.

19
" one of the six convenient bays, with which the
" coast, as far as Cape Kherson, is indented ; and
" marching down the main street, (provided they
" were strong enough to defeat any military force
" that might be opposed to them in the open field) ;
" sack the town, and burn the fleet."
There is however little doubt, that the Russians
have thrown up strong fortifications to protect
Sebastopol on the land side ; and the ground is said
to be extensively mined.
Speaking of this place, Demidoff" remarks : " The
" situation of Sebastopol as a naval port is justly
" esteemed; and indeed Europe presents few harbours
"so completely suited to the necessities of a large
" fleet. An arm of the sea of an imposing breadth
" has made itself a deep bed in the western coast of
" Taurida, and advances inland to a distance of two
"leagues. Within this magnificent basin, are
" neither rocks, nor dangerous reefs ; its entrance is
"convenient^ and is defended by two formidable
" fortifications, whose powerful batteries could sweep
" with ease across the broad mouth of the harbour.
" Having entered within the bay, on looking towards
" the southern coast four spacious inlets are observed,
" off"ering so safe a shelter, and bo easy an access,
"that in one of them, the bay of ships, (carabelnaya
"boukhta,) three-deckers may moor within a few
" yards of the land. Exactly between two of
" these inlets stands the city of Sebastopol, whose
"name in Greek signifies the august city; this
c 2

20
'^^ name will soon have eff'aced that of Ak-Tiar, still
" given to it by the Tartars, in memory of an ancient
" city on the north side of the bay, not far from the
" barren hillock at the entrance of the Port."*
It is important to remark that Demidoff" sa)-s
that the stone of Sebastopol is of a porous nature —
and when the docks were built by an Enghshman,
Mr. Hupton, he found it necessary to bring the
stone for his works from a distant spot. But the
fortifications there is every reason to believe are
constructed of the porous stone of Sebastopol, or of
the soft calcareous rock of Inkerman,f mentioned
by Pallas.
"From Cape Khersonese the coast runs about
"seven miles to the eastward, to the harbour of
" Sebastopol, and contains several remarkable white
" cliff"s, and bays, and islets ; of which three are in
" the great bay. They are all open to the north-
"ward."t " Sevastopol is a strongly fortified town within a
" fine citadel, and a roadstead so capacious, and
" with such good anchoring-ground, that the fleets of
" Europe might ride in it, secure from every storm ;
* Demidoff's Travels.
t Inkerman is on the eastern side of the bay, in -which
Sebastopol stands. It is very unhealthy. " The inhabitants of
" Sebastopol," says Demidoff, "vphen they accompany you to
" Inkerman, generally advise ae short a stay as possible, so evil
" is the renown of the surrounding marshes."
X Sailing Directions, &c.

21
" and such is the depth of water that the largest ships
" may fie within a cable's length of the shore. There
" are, besides, the other small bays previously men-
" tioned, which branch off" in various directions
" and are all equally commodious, and lined with a
" series of capes naturally strong, and easily de-
" fended. It is now the station of the Black Sea
" fleet, and no expense or labour is spared to make
" the place impregnable. The population of 30,000,
" are almost all naval or military.
" Nothing very remarkable is presented on the
" northern shore of the Great Road, with the excep-
" tion of an inlet, named Port Severnaia, lying op-
" posite the Point of Sevastopol. A ledge of rocks,
" named Constantine's Reef, runs out from the ex-
" tremity of this shore to about half a mile to the
" westward, and is about one-third of a mile broad ;
" its extremity is or was pointed out by a white flag.
" After passing this flag, when entering the bay, a
" point, bordered by a reef of rocks, will be perceived,
" which is situated about 330 fathoms, N.E. by N.
" from the red flag on the opposite side. The Reef
" of Constantine and Point are overlooked by the
" high table-land inland, on which there is a fortress.
" The Harbour of Sevastopol* is exposed to the
" westward, is about 4 miles long, and about one
" mile across in the broadest part. In mid-channel
" there, there is a depth of about 10 fathoms, about
" half-way up, which diminishes gradually to the
" eastward. At the head of it is the valley of In-

22
" kermane, through which the rivulet Bouiouk-
" ouz^ne runs. Above the valley are two light-
" towers, respectively 402 and 612 feet above high-
" water mark, which show fixed lights, and, when
" brought in a line, lead clear of all dangers at the
" entrance ofthe harbour. The lower of these may
" be seen at 23 miles, and the upper one at 28 miles
" off". (1829.)
" Westerly winds blow during the day in the
" summer season, and the land-breeze commences at
" night ; but the winds are not so regular in the au-
" tumn and winter season. Worms which pierce the
" ships' sides are prevalent, and are supposed to be ge-
" nerated in the mud brought do wn by several rivulets,
'^ more especially at the bottom of the great bay."*

THE ISTHMUS OF PERECOP.
In any attack made on the Krimea, it may be
deserving of consideration, whether it wiU not be
advisable to occupy the Isthmus of Perecop. I
annex therefore the following descriptions of it.
" Perecop is the portal of the Krimea, it is the
" entrance gate to the government of Taurida ; and
" the entrenchment by which the peninsula is closed
" and isolated. We should be much astonished to
* Sailing Directions, &c. I have given Marmont's description of
Sebastopol in a former publication, vitle Description of Seat of
"War, etc. by Montague Gore, Esq., pages 36 and 39.

28
" be told that this was one of the most commendable
" situations in a sanitary point of view. The viscous
" sea lying so close to the village, constantly heated
" to the very bottom of its slimy bed, gives forth,
" according to certain travellers, a miasma, injurious
" to the quahty of the surrounding atmosphere. In
" the inestimable work of M. Montandon,* already
" quoted by us, we find, however, a contrary opinion
" expressed. This writer points out Perecop as a
" particularly healthy spot, in the teeth of all con-
^^ trary prejudice. That which is certainly true,
" without entering into .a discussion as to its dele-
" terious efi'ects, is, that this putrid sea is, for the
" whole of this country, a great source of trade and
" movement. On its shores, and on those of the
" neighbouring lakes, a considerable quantity of salt
"is gathered, constituting an important item of
" revenue to the government."t
" From Tendra lighthouse to Cape Eskiforos, or
" Tarkhan, the bearing and distance are S.S.E. ^E.
" 72 miles, in which space the coast trends a consider-
" able way easterly, and forms the gulf of Perecop.
" On the north side of this gulf, in latitude 46 N. is
^•' a long sandy peninsula ; at the western end it is
" not more than 100 fathoms broad, but as it advances
" to the eastward it gradually increases in breadth,
" until at last it is about two miles wide in its broadest
" part, which is near its extremity. Over the nar-
* Guide to Krimea, by M. Montandon.
t Demidoff's Travels,

24

" rowest part of this peninsula the sea breaks in
" rough weather, so that it must not be closely
" approached. Within the peninsula there is a good
" harbour, in which you may obtain shelter in from

"4| to 2, fathoms."*

TOWNS IN INTERIOR OF KRIMEA.
Baghtcheh-saeai.
" We were now in the palace of the Khans of
" the Krimea, that historical abode — the palace of
" gardens— to which Baghtcheh-Sarai owes its sig-
" nificant appellation."
" Baghtcheh-Sarai hes in the bosom of a narrow
" valley, bristling with large cube-shaped rocks,
" which seem ready to fall down and crush it. It
"is said to contain a population of 14,000 in-
" habitants, of whom the Tartars form the
" majority, the number of Russians and foreigners
"being only 2,260. It is stated, though we believe
" the number to be far less, that the city contains
" 3,000 houses. With the exception of cultivating
"orchards, the Tartars of Baghtcheh-Sarai employ
" themselves but little in the labours ofthe field. An
" abundance of fruit, consumed by them in laro-e
" quantities during the summer, affords almost all
" the sustenance they require. The grain which is
"brought into Baghtcheh-Sarai is made into flour
* Sailing Directions, etc.

25
" by mills set in motion by the river Djourouk-Sou.
" We have already called attention to the number
" of pubhc fountains ; the good order of the cpn-
" duits supplying the city with water, and their in-
" genious disposition, affords a fresh proof of the
" pious regard professed by Mussulmen for springs
" of water, with which they delight to surround
" themselves."* Marshal Marmont calls this town Bachiseraye,
and says of it : — " The appearance of this town is
" singular. Although the population smounts to
" between 8000 and 10,000, there is only one street.
" On one side is a small river ; on the other a
"mountain; the latter is quite barren, without
" vegetation of any kind. At the end of the town
" the valley becomes wider, and we arrive at the
" palace of the Khans."
" The population consists of Tartars. They ad-
" here strictly to the customs, but are free from the
" fanaticism of the Mahometans. They are a noble
" race, their manners dignified, but cold ; and have
" an high character for good faith and integrity ."t
Kaea-sou-bazaae.
Demidoff" says, " that this plase contains 15,000
"inhabitants. It lies between two rivers which
"sometimes overflow their banks, and is nightly
" enveloped in white mists, said to be pernicious to
" health, and to engender epidemic fevers !"
* Demidoff's Travels. t Marmont's Travels.

26

SYMPHEROPOL.
Demidoff" computes the population at about 8000 ;
and if it should be ever considered desirable to oc
cupy part of the Krimea ; it is worthy of note that
this town stands on a river; that there is commu
nication between it and the two extreme points of
the Peninsula — Kosloff" to the west, and Kertch to
east — that roads start from it ; which, with the ex
ception of that to Perecop, extend to every point of
the coast, the entire line of which exceeds an
hundred and sixty leagues; and that there are
fine barracks ; and a military hospital of consider
able magnitude.*
" Sympheropol," writes Marshal Marmont, " is
" the modern capital of the Krimea, and the resi-
" dence of the governor and principal authorities.
" Its population is between five and six thousand.
" The old town resembles a small market-town
" of western Europe ; the new one consists of hand-
" some houses, but which are spread over a great
" extent  I went to visit the works
" which were in course of execution for an artesian
" well  It appears that the ground
" in the Krimea is very favourable to works of this
" kind, and that it is nearly always possible to
" obtain water in the steppes ; this will be an im-
" mense advantage, and a great source of wealth,"
* Demidoff's Travels.

27
GENERAL FEATURES of the COUNTRY.
The northern part of the Krimea, from Perecop
to Sympheropol, is for the most part a level, and
arid steppe. From the neighbourhood of Sympher
opol the ground gradually ascends until it reaches
the mountain chain, which runs across the southern
portion of the Krimea, from Kertch to Cape
Chersonese. Between these mountains and the
Black Sea, is again a belt of land, from Balaklava
to Theodosia, interspersed with villas of the Russian
aristocracy ; many of whom make this spot their
summer residence.* The scenery of this southern
portion is lovely ; covered in part with rich vine
yards. " Nothing is wanting," says Demidoff",
*^ speaking of Aloupka, to constitute this spot,
" favoured as it is by every natm-al resource, an un-
" rivalled garden ; grottoes, cascades, limpid basins,
"yawning craters, wild retreats." Speaking in
another place, ofthe road from Alouchta to Yalta,
he says, " If you would admire a series of beautiful
"landscapes, and contemplate nature by turns, in
" all her majestic wildness, and in her most seductive
" details, travel along this pretty road, which is hke
" a ride in some fine park, skilfully laid out, so as
^' to embrace a variety^ of picturesque eff"ects, truly
" enchanting." There are in this part of the Krimea plantations
of hemp and tobocco, and extensive orchards.
* Pallas Tableau Physique et Geographique de la Tauride.
Demidoff's Travels.

28
A good road runs along a considerable part of
the southern shore, " The road from Yalta," says
Demidoff\, "runs to Aloupka along the shore^of
" the bay. This road is smooth and so easy, that
" carriages can go at the utmost speed upon it."
Again between Yalta and Alouchta he mentions,
" a beautiful road cut along the sides of the moun-
" tains."

CLIMATE OF KRIMEA.
" We had already on several occasions heard of
" the remarkable diff"erence between the cfimate of
'^the steppe, and that of the southern coast.
" Although the fact is easily accounted for by the
" relative position of the two regions, it was difficult
" to believe the exaggerated accounts we had re-
" ceived in both respects. The existence of a plan-
" tation of olive trees at Aloupka, and the growth of
" pomegranate and Spanish broom on some portions
" of the southern coast, were little in accordance
" with the statements we had heard relative to the
" extreme coldness of the temperature. On the
'^ other hand, we had just felt the rigours of an early
" winter, in uncomfortable contradiction with the
" boasted mildness of the climate of the Peninsula.
" We therefore determined to refer to the^experience
" and knowledge of M. de Steven. — A series of ob-
" servations on the mean temperature of the Krimea

29
" was made at the residence of this learned professor
"near Sympheropol, during twelve consecutive years,
"(from the 1st of January, 1822, to the 1st of
" January, 1834,) conducted by himself, and in his
" absence by a person of experience. The calcula-
" tions were made by Colonel Markevitz, now di-
"recting the studies ofthe second corps of cadets at
" St. Petersburgh. A table was drawn up, ex-
" hibiting the mean temperature during this period
'^ of twelve years, for each month and for every
" year, that of the twenty-four hours being de-
" ducted from the maximum and minimum of each
" day ; the observations were made according to the
" the systems of Schouv and Ciminello. All the
^' dates are those used in the Russian empire ; they
" are twelve days later than those used in other
" European countries.
"The mean maximum of the year is +26,56, it
"has varied from +23 (1831) to +28,05 (1862.)
" The minimum is 14,21 ; it has varied from — 10,
" (1824) to —23, (1828.)
" The greatest heat is observed between the 20th
" of June and the 10th of August.
" The greatest cold, between the 6th of January
" and the 15th of February.
" At Nikita, on the Southern coast, the mean
" temperature of the years 1826, 1827, and 1830,
" was +10,04 ; and at Sympheropol, +8,35, exhibit-
" ing a diff"erence of 1,69.

80
" It is evident from these calculations, the accu-
" racy of which is unquestionable, how much even
" the best informed persons appear to exaggerate
" the variability of the climate of the Krimea, and
" how trifling a diff"erence there exists in the mean
" temperature on either side of the Krimean
" chain."* * Demidoff's Travels,

APPENDIX.

I ADD a brief account of Nikalaioff, Berislaff and Bessar
abia. " Nikalaioff," says Demidoff, " is sufficiently protected
" against any attack by its situation, so far inland, and at
" the extremity of a tortuous liman." — He admits, however,
that owing to the improvement of the entrance of the
harbour, there is now sufficient depth of water to enable
ships of even an hundred guns, when built there, to pro
ceed from the dockyard to Sebastopol, without the aid of
camels or any extraneous assistance whatever.
' ' The improvement of the entrance of the harbour of
" Nikalaioff is a work of great utihty, as it dispenses with
" the necessity of employing camels, to take vessels to
" Sebastopol. Ships of one hundred guns can now leave
" the harbour without difficulty, and encounter no obstacle
" in their passage to the sea."*

Berislaff, which is situated at some distance to the N.E.
of Kherson, on a fine plateau, commanding the northern
bank of the Dneiper, is of great importance to Russia in a
strategic point of view.
" Berislaff," says Demidoff, " dates its foundation in the
" glorious days of the Empress Catherine ; at the time
" when that great sovereign was desirous of fortifying her
" command over the newly acquired territory ; by a line of
" garrisons which should secure her in its tranquil possession.
" Five important roads meet in Berislaff, and render its
* Marmont's Travels.

32
" existence precisely on that spot a matter of necessity.
" By the road from the south, or from Perecop, large
" quantities of salt are brought within its walls. Two roads,
" in the direction of the north-eastern provinces, lead to
" the government of Ekaterinoslaff, and towards the Cos-
" sacks of the Don ; another, running due north, cuts
" through the immense desert, stretching towards Pultowa
" and the Slobodians ofthe Ukraine, another opens acom-
" munication with the westem countries of Europe, by
" Kherson, Nikolaieff, and Odessa."

It would be presumptuous in me to oflFer my opinion as to
what may be the movements determined on by the Com
manders of the Allied forces. But in case of any movement
in the direction of the Dneister ; the following extract from
Marshal Marmont's travels may not be without interest.
" Bessarabia is very monotonous in its features ; it has
" no trees, but fine and verdant pastures. This country
" consists of an elevated table land, intersected by nume-
" rous ravines, and very undulating. In general there is
" a want of water, and it is only by making dams and
" reservoirs across the ravines that any can be obtained.
" The pastures flourish during the summer in favourable
" years ; and it is not till the end of August that they
" become dry in years of great heat. There are numerous
" herds of oxen.
« I passed the Dneister at Bender, a place which recalled
" to my mind the folUes of Charles XII., who dwelt there.
" The fortress, situated on the right bank, was formerly
" Turkish ; it is revetted ; and was being repaired at the
" time I passed through. A small place like Bender is
" worth preserving : the magazines may be kept there in
" safety ; and it may serve as a rallying point, and shelter

33
" for isolated bodies of troops ; in case of revolt or revplu-
" tion in this country; of such extent, and but lately
" acquired. " On the left bank of the Dneister, at the distance of
" twelve thousand feet from the river, is another fortress
" — the ancient Russian fortress, at the time when the
" Pruth was the boundary of the empire. It has no
" revetments, and no water in the trenches. It answers
" no object ; and might be destroyed without trouble."
" On the other side of the Dneister begin the sands ;
" the rains render them very fertile ; but on the other
" hand, during the dry season, they are quite barren,
" and like a desert. Already (in the middle of May) the
" steppes which I was crossing were parched by the sun ;
" and an apprehension prevailed of a return of the suffer-
" ings which the population had undergone in preceding
" years."*

SOURCE OF SUPPLY OF WATER TO SEBASTOPOL.
Since the preceding pages were sent to the press, I
have seen remarks in several periodical works, on the
importance of cutting off the supply of water from Sebas
topol. The following account of the source whence this
supply is obtained, may not be without interest. In
speaking of the VaUey of Baidar, Demidoff observes :
" From this valley springs the httle river for the recep-
" tion of whose waters the docks of Sebastopol are pre-
" paring— the Tachernaia Retckkay, called by the Tartars
" KaseU-Ouzen." Again, he says, speaking of the roadstead of Sebastopol :
f' At the bottom of the great valley, forming the roadstead,
" flows, on a level of suitable height, a small river abun-
• Marmont's Ti'avels. D

34
" dantly supplied with water. This river was taken pos-
" session of by the engineers, turned into another bed
" excavated in the rock, and passing at one time through a
" tunnel, at another over an aqueduct, the Tchornaia-
" Rechta (black rivulet) was made to furnish the necessary
" supply of water to the docks."
The valley of Baidar, where this river rises, is to the
N.E. of Balaklava. It may be worthy of consideration,
whether a force landed at Balaklava might not cut off the
supply of water from Sebastopol.

The following estimate of the transport required for a
division of 6,000 men, from Varna to the Krimea, has been
sent me by a gallant friend of mine, now serving with the
army in Turkey : —
1. Major-General's Staff. — 28 officers, 90 horses,
52 men, — 1 steamer, 2 horse transports.
2. Six regiments of Infantry, 5 steamers, 7 horse trans
ports, including Medical and Commissariat Staff.
3. Animals for reserve. — 334 mules, 330 bullocks; l50
ammunition carts — 12 transports.
4. Field battery. Royal Artillery — 3 transports.
5. Reserve ammunition, etc. for Artillery — 2 transports.
Total, 6 steamers, capable of carrying 14 horses each,
and 26 transports.
This does not include transport of Cavalry, Horse Artil
lery, siege-guns, ambulances, hospital stores, main re
serve of ammunition, and commissariat stores.

36

Note to page 16.
" Ammunition and military stores are transported from
" Tagaiirog to the Caucasus ; a considerable number of
" vessels employed in this special service plough the
" shallow waters of this sea.*
" At Lougane, to the north of Taganrog, there is an
" imperial foundry established to supply the fortresses in
" the south, and the fleet of the Black Sea, with projectiles,
" cannon, and other articles in cast-iron, required by the
" establishments of the war department and the navy, in
" this part of Europe." t .
* Demidoff's Travels. t Id.

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY.

'il