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THE ALPINE JOURNAL.
A Record of Mountain Adventure and Scientific Observation. By
Members of the Alpine Club. Editedby W. A. B. Coolidgb.
Published Quarterly, price Is. &d.
London : LONGMANS, GEEEN, & CO.

SWISS TRAVEL
AUD
SWISS GUIDE-BOOKS

PRINTED EY
SP0TTI3W00DB AND CO., NEW-STREET SQTJABB
LONDON

SWISS TEA VEL

SWISS GUIDE-BOOKS

BY
W. A. B. COOLIDGE
IM
FELLOW OP MAGDALEN COLLEGE, OXFORD : AND
EDITOR Off 'THE ALPINE JOTTHNAL'

Ingvam igitur inimicum esse
natures quisquis non magnd con-
templatione dignissimos esse montes
excelsos judicaverit '
Gbsner, 1511

LONDON
LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO.
AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16*^ STREET
1889

All rights reserved

Co f^e Memory at
MY DEAR AUNT
META CLAUDIA BEEVOOKT
TO WHOM I OWE
AMIDST COUNTLESS OTHER BLESSINGS
MT LOVE FOE AND MT KNOWLEDGE OP THE GEEAT MOUNTAINS
WHICH NONE HAVE EVER LOVED MOEE TRULY AND
FEW HAVE KNOWN BETTEE THAN SHE DID

5 Ireifitate tt)ii iaai

WHILE WRITING WHICH
THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN PRESENT WITH MB
THE BECOLLEOTION OP MANY HAPPY DATS
SPENT WITH HER AMONG THEM

PEEFACE

The first sketch of the paper which forms the main
part of the present volume was originally published
in the Guardian (June 15, 1887), the editor of which
has kindly granted me permission to make use of it.
In its present shape it has been thoroughly revised
and very much enlarged. It is an attempt to work
out a new side of the history of travel in Switzer
land — the development of guide-books and other
means of travel. My best thanks are due to the
friends who have sent me invaluable information and
suggestions, and in particular to Mr. A. J. Butler, Mr.
Douglas Freshfield, Mr. Marett, Sir P. Pollock, Mr.
Leslie Stephen, and Mr. Tuckett.
The second paper traces out the history, mainly
from a traveller's point of view, of a well-known Alpine
village, and is intended to illustrate the practical appli
cation of the system sketched in general outline in the
principal article.

viii Sw/ss Travel and Guidb-Books
Both papers were, in their early stages, written
for publication in the ' Alpine Journal,' but have
swelled to such dimensions that it has been thought
better to issue them in a separate form.
W. A. B. COOLIDGE.
Oxford : April 25, 1889.

CONTENTS

nSS TBAVEL AND SWISS GUIDE-BOOKS

1

Early Swiss Travellers .

2

The Great St. Bernard ....

4

Eudolf of St. Trend and John de Bremble .

5

First traces of a Swiss Guide-book

9

Pilatus .....

11

Gesner ......

13

Scheuohzer . ¦ . . .

14

Simler and early rules of mountaineering

17

Merian .....

21

First real Swiss Guide-Book— Wagner

22

Delices de la Suisse, and Stanyan's book .

23

The higher peaks first attacked .

25

First local guide-hooTcs

2,5

Heidegger's ' Handbuch "...

31

Other early Swiss guide-books

37

Ebel's ' Anleitung ' . . . .

43

Four guide-books ....

47

Bichard's French recension of Ebel

52

Wall's Enghsh recension of Ebel

57,63

Murray's ' Handbook ' .

75

X

Swiss Travel and Guide-Boors

Ebel's successors : —

Badeker .....

79

Von Escher .....

82

VonTschudi ....

82

Berlepsch .....

85

Joanne's ' Itineraire ' . . .

89

Minor Swiss guide-books

92

Transition from general to special guide-books

95

Special subject guide-books

96

Special district guide-books .

101

The final assault on the higher peaks .

107

Ball's ' Alpine Guide ' . . .

108

Conway's ' Zermatt Pocket-Book '

110

Swiss inns .....

110

Swiss steamers, railways and roads

111

Summary .....

114

Appendices : —
A. Eeference List of Swiss Guide-books .
B. List of works relating to the Alpine regions
of Switzerland and the adjacent districts .
C. The history of Swiss Mountain inns .
Notes .....

117 120 150
155

II. HOW ZEEMATT BECAME A MOUNTAINEER
ING CENTEE  251
Sketch of the early history of the village . . 253
Its discovery by its neighbours , . . 265
And by travellers . . . . . 268
Engelhardt ...... 277

Contents xi
PAGE
Lauber's inn . . . . . . 282
Forbes . . . . . .288
Uhioh . . . . . . . 291
M. Seiler's arrival . . . . .306
And the conquest of Monte Eosa . . . 309
Notes . . . . . . . 312

INDEX  323

Additions to the List of Works on Switzerland
{pp. 124-49).
Page 129. No. 41. This book was freely translated into French
by M. de K6ralio, whose edition appeared in 1770 at Paris in a
single quarto volume, bearing the title ' Histoire Naturelle des
Glacieres de Suisse.'
Page 139. No. 128 bis. 1833. L. Tenets. Mdmoire sur les Varia
tions de la Temperature dans les Alpes de la Suisse. E6dige
en 1821. (Printed in vol. i. part ii. of the ' Denksohriften der
allgemeinen Schweizerischen Gesellschaft fur die gesammten
Naturwissenschaften.' Ziiiioh. This article contains much
information as to passes over glaciers in former days.)
Page 149. No. 232 bis. 1881. Marquess of Queensberry The
Spirit of the Matterhom. London. Svo. (A Poem.)
Page 149. No. 241 bis. 1889. Victor Tissot. Unknown Switzer
land. Translated by Mrs. Wilson. London. Crown Svo.

SWISS TRAVEL
AND
SWISS GUIDE-BOOKS

We commonly think of Switzerland as the ' playground
of Europe,' and we generally forget — if we ever knew
the fact — that it has only become a playground within
the last century or so, while it has a glorious past
history, quite apart from Tell and Winkelried, and
its institutions, political, social, and economical, de
serve the most careful study. Swiss travel passed
through several stages before it became identical
with travel for pleasure, and the books compiled for
the use of early travellers differed much from those to
which we are now accustomed. A rapid glance at
these travellers and their guide-books may not be with
out interest, and will show that both ' Cook's Tourists '
and the ' J.E.M. Guide to Switzerland ' are the result
of a long continued process of natural selection,
though perhaps they can hardly be classed as ' sur
vivals of the fittest ' for the world in general. I wish
to trace out the history of the practical side of travel-
7"

2 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
ling in Switzerland — the history of the development
of certain of the means of Swiss travel (to wit, guide
books, inns, roads, and railways), as distinct from the
more general history of the rise of the taste for Swiss
travel. It may be sometimes necessary for me to touch
on the latter subject, but it will always be by way of
illustration of the former, to which, in writing these
pages, I have tried to limit myself, as it has never
before been treated of in detail. I have, however,
devoted more space to Alpine than to sub-alpine
travelling in Switzerland, without pretending in any
way to write a complete history of Swiss climbing.^
As I am writing for tourists, I may be allowed, pro hac
vice only, to trace the boundaries of Switzerland ac
cording to what may be called tourist geography, ex
cluding from this sketch, with the exception of an
occasional mention, the Engadine and the rest of the
Canton of the Grisons or Graubiinden (politically
Swiss since 1803 only), and including Chamonix and
the chain of Mont Blanc, now mainly French, but
formerly part of the realms of the King of Sardinia,
as head of the House of Savoy.
Three main periods may be distinguished in the i
history of Swiss travel. Eoughly speaking, we may
say that before the Eeformation travellers, not being '
merchants, came to what is now Switzerland bent on
some serious errand, military, religious, or medicinal.
During the next three centuries Switzerland became
the home and field of the renewed study of the,
physical sciences. Then, from about 1750 onwards, I
' For Notes see p. 155.

Soldiers and J/iss/onaries 3
' pleasure-travelling came into fashion, confined at first
to cities, later extended to lakes and the hills around
them, finally aiming at the complete conquest of the
highest summits and the exploration of the most
remote and most insignificant nooks of the ice and
snow region.
The earliest visitors were soldiers and missionaries.
Alike in aiming at a permanent possession of the land
and its inhabitants, though for very different reasons,
and working in very different ways, each went forth
into an unknown country with their lives in their
hands, and with only the scantiest information as to
the geography of the land and the character of the in
habitants. The Eomans so completely colonised what
is now Western Switzerland that the later Teutonic
Burgundians were very rapidly Eomanised. The
Alamannian hordes in the North maintained their own
nationaHty, though it was long before they penetrated
into the higher valleys. Later Swiss history has
simply been the history of the lordship of the Alaman-
nians over the Burgundians, the latter (in ' la Suisse
Eomande ') not gaining political equality with their
Teutonic masters till after the first French Eevolu-
tion. The work of the missionaries was even more
thorough and more rapidly carried out. Many of
them were Irishmen — St. Beatus, the apostle of the
Bernese Oberland, St. Columbanus, and St. Gallus ;
while St. Maurice, both a soldier and a martyr, was
one of the Theban Legion, which contributed many
missionaries to the Western Alps.^ Through their
B 2

4 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
energy and self-sacrifice churches were built, monas
teries were founded, round which towns grew up, and
episcopal sees were created — so that in feudal times
the ecclesiastics were able ,in many cases to with
stand the temporal nobles. The great abbey of St.
Maurice survives to this day, and its former impor
tance is illustrated by the remark of a recent writer,^
that till the archives of the monastery are opened to
students it will be impossible to write a complete and
full history of the Lower Valais.
A little later we find Switzerland being used as a
place of transit, as well as a place of abode ; for the i
pilgrims coming from the west and north of Europe,
and journeying to Eome, had to cross the Alps some
where, and, their favourite pass was the Great St.
Bernard. On the pass known to the Eomans as
'"Summus Penninus,' or 'Mons Jovis ' (Montjoux), a
holy man, named- Bernard, of Menthon, founded (or
re-founded, for a monastery existed there as early as
812, and a hospice in 859) a hospice, served by
brothers, who by 1154 had become the Austin Canons
Eegular, well known to every Swiss tourist at the
present day. Unluckily it is as yet uncertain whether
St. Bernard of Menthon lived in the tenth or the
eleventh century.* Certain it is, however, that the
first known authentic mention of the church of St.
Nicholas of Montjoux and the ' fratres ' or ' servitores '
attached to it occurs in two documents of 1125. We
hear in 1145 of the ' hospitale de Monte Jovis,' while
about 1154 (in the Itinerary of Abbot Nicholas, of
Thingor, in Iceland) we read of ' hospitium Bernhardi,'

Great St. Bernard 5
in 1158 of the * ecclesia sancti Nicolai et sancti Ber
nard! de Monte Jovis,' and in 1177 of a gift of the
church and tithes of Avranches, as weU as of lands
(of the value of 25L per annum) at the same place,
and of the chapel of Eomford, &c.,^ made to it by the
' illustrious King ' Henry II. of England, whose son
John was in 1173 betrothed to the heiress of the
Mam-ienne (she died in 1174), part of whose dowry
consisted of lands in the vaUey of Aosta.^ Even
before the foundation of such a refuge we hear of
many pilgrims facing great perils in crossing the pass,
owing to their desire to reach the ' threshold of the
Apostles ' — e.g. Willibald (c. 720), Charles the Great
(repeatedly), Siric, Archbishop of Canterbury (990), and
possibly King Cnut (1027), if the pass he crossed was
not rather the Mont Cenis.' In particular, the crowds
of Icelanders are very remarkable. To the natural
dangers of the road was added, in the tenth century,
the special danger of the Saracen brigands, who had
seized on the pass. The capture by them (in 978) of
St. Majolus, the Abbot of Cluny, is one of the best
known and most vivid of mediaeval stories, and the stir
it caused had much to do with the final extirpation of
this nest of pirates in their stronghold of Fraxinetum,
on the coast of Provence.*
It was, however, after the building of the church
and the ' hospitium ' that the pilgrims became more
numerous. Eudolf, the Abbot of St. Trond, near
Liege, crossed in December 1128, and a very spirited
account of his adventures, of the avalanches and
storms, and of the conduct of the guides, or ' marones,'

6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
has been preserved to us in the chronicle of his
monastery, though no mention is made of the
' hospitium ' on the pass.
I venture to offer a translation of this very vivid
narrative :
On their return they (i.e. the Abbot Eudolf and one of
his monks, by name Alexander) kept the feast of Christmas
(1128) at Piacenza, and, amid the increasing perils of a
winter journey, passed through the city of Aosta, and
reached with difficulty that was next door to death the
village of Eestopolis (E troubles), which is at the foot of
the Mount of Jove. Here they spent the octave of Christ
mas, being unable to go forwards or backwards by reason
of the very deep snowdrifts. After several days a very
difficult path was pointed out to them by the ' marones,'
who acted as their guides — for those who point out the way
are called ' marones ' ^ — by which, after having traversed
a distance of two German miles, they reached the village
of St. E6my, on the Mount of Jove itself. In this place,
as though fixed in the jaws of death, they remained, in
peril of death by night and by day. The small callage was
overcrowded by the throng of pilgrims. From the lofty
and rugged heights above it there fell often huge masses of
snow, carrying away everything they encountered, so that
when some parties of the guests had found then- places,
and others were still waiting near the houses,'" these
masses swept the latter away, and suffocated some, while
crushing and crippling others, of those who were within the
buildings. In such a continual state of death they had to
spend several days in this ill-omened viUage. Then the
' marones ' of the mountain came of their own accord to
the pilgrims, and offered for a large reward that they
should try and open up the road, that the pilgrims should
follow them on foot, then the horses after them, so that the

Abbot Rudolf's Adventures 7
path being well trodden down, a good road might be made
for the horses' masters, who, as being more tender, might
come after the others. Hence the ' marones ' wrapped their
heads round with felt because of the intense cold, put rough
mittens on their hands, pulled on their high boots, the
soles of which were armed with iron spikes on account of
the shpperiness of the ice, took in their hands long poles to
sound for the path, buried deep under the snow, and boldly
started along the usual road. It was very early in the
morning, and the phgrims, in the greatest fear and trem
bhng, prepared themselves, by celebrating the divine
mysteries and communicatmg, to face imminent death.
They strove with one another which of them should first
make his confession to a priest, and, as one priest was not
sufficient, they confessed their sins to each other in turn
throughout the church. While these devotions were taking
place with the utmost fervency in church, a most sorrowful
lament resounded through the village, for as the ' marones '
were advancing out of the viUage in one another's steps,
an enormous mass of snow like a mountain slipped from
the rocks, overwhelmed ten of them, and carried them
away, as it seemed, to the depths of heU. Those who had
become aware of this mysterious disaster had made a hasty
and furious rush down to the murderous spot, and, having
dug out the ' marones,' were carrying back some of them
quite lifeless and others half dead upon poles, and drag
ging others, with broken hmbs, in their arms. This poor
woman was crying aloud for her husband, that one for her
brother ; this man and that that he had lost so and so.
When the pilgrims came out of the church they were terri
fied by this horrible accident, hesitated a little while, and
then, fearing that the like fate would be theirs, fled back to
Eestopolis as fast as they could. Nothing was said now of
the difficulties of the path ; it seemed quite easy to them
as a means of escaping from the peril of death. There

8 Spviss Travel and Guide-Books
they spent the feast of the Epiphany (January 6). Then,
having waited for fine weather, they hired 'marones,' and
returned to the death-dealing village, and, fear of death
lending wings to their feet, now crawling, now stumbling,
managed at last to reach that day a point half-way up the
mountain. On the following day, plucking up courage for
a little, they escaped from the horrid sanctuary of Jove,
and, setting out in the direction of their own land, reached
home without great difficulty.' '
Abbot Eudolf's experience of the demands of his
guides might possibly have made him believe that
there was here a curious, even if accidental, resem
blance between the two words mentioned by Littre —
the Walloon ' maroner,' to thieve, and the Low Latin
' marro,' a guide. Even more interesting is the
following striking letter of Master John de Bremble,
a monk of Christ Church, Canterbury, sent to Eome
on the business of his house. The letter is addressed
to his sub-prior Geoffrey, and describes his passage of
the Great St. Bernard in February 1188. It is thus
translated by Bishop Stubbs in his recent delightful
volume of ' Lectures on the Study of Medieval and
Modern History ' (p. 128) :—
Pardon me for not writing. I have been on the Mount
of Jove ; on the one hand looking up to the heavens of the
mountains, on the other shuddermg at the hell of the
vaUeys, feeling myself so much nearer heaven that I was
more sure that my prayer would be heard. ' Lord,' I said,
' restore me to my brethren, that I may tell them, that
they come not into this place of torment.' Place of tor
ment indeed, where the marble pavement of the stony
ground is ice alone, and you cannot set your foot safely ;

Itinerary of Abbot Nicholas g
where, strange to say, although it is so slippery that you
cannot stand, the death (into which there is every facility
for a fall) is certain death. I put my hand in my scrip,
that I might scratch out a syllable or two to your sincerity —
lo, I found my ink-bottle filled with a dry mass of ice ; my
fingers too refused to write ; my beard was stiff with frost,
and my breath congealed into a long icicle. I could not
write the news I wished.'^
We must not forget that the ' Itinerarium Antonini '
(fourth century) and the ' Tabula Peutingeriana ' (an
ancient map, perhaps of the fourth century, or earlier,
so called from the name of its owner in the sixteenth
century) trace or describe a road from Milan to Basel
by the Great St. Bernard, Vevey, and Avenches ; but
it is doubtless to this crowd of pilgrims that we owe
the first germs of a Swiss guide-book, for the earlier
soldiers and missionaries had had to trust to men as
guides rather than to books or maps. This is the
concise but careful Itinerary of the road from Basel
to Aosta, over the Great St. Bernard, drawn up (about
1154) by Nicholas, Abbot of Thingor, in Iceland." We
have, too, the shorter notes of Albert of Stade.''' But
it was not only pilgrims who used this pass ; for Herr
I Oehlmann tells us that on their solemn journeys to
Eome the Emperors crossed the Great St. Bernard no
fewer than nineteen times between 774 and 1196, a
i twentieth journey being made by Sigismund in 1414 —
the Brenner, always a formidable rival, at last quite
superseding it, for we find that between 793 and 1402
1 this pass was crossed by the Emperors no fewer than
j sixty-six times.

IO Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
In the later Middle Ages we find invalids coming
to Switzerland for the sake of the mineral waters.
Baden in Aargau became a most flourishing watering-
place, and for centuries the resort of many of the
real or imaginary invalids of Central Europe, ^neas
Sylvius Piccolomini (later Pope Pius IL, 1458-64),
whose journeys are recorded on the walls of the cathe
dral library of Siena by the brush of Pinturicchio,
gives a most entertaining account of the manner of
life there, further details of which, especially as to the
eighteenth century, are given by Herr Peyer in his
very useful work. We note that the first chapel for
travellers of a religion different from that of the land
was the Protestant church at the Catholic town of
Baden, in Aargau, built 1713-14, the forerunner of
the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel and
the Colonial and Continental Church Society chaplain
cies and churches now so common in Switzerland.
The springs of Pfaffers were discovered in 1242,'*
and Merian in 1642 tells us that the waters were con
sidered very efficacious in the case of dislocated and
sprained limbs, particularly in the case of persons
' who have been tortured.' Leukerbad^was • created '
by the famous Cardinal Matthew Schinner, Count-
Bishop of Sion, who purchased the springs in 1501 ;
but the buildings erected by him were destroyed by
a great avalanche in 1518, as were others in 1719.
Some of these baths are still visited, mainly by Swiss
invalids ; but the ' grape cure,' the ' whey cure,' and
above all the ' air cure,' have almost superseded them,
at least in the eyes of English travellers.

Early Mountain Ascents ii
Now some of the readers of this work may wonder
why, in a history of Swiss travel, no mention has yet
been made of mountain ascents, which nowadays form
an indispensable part— if not the whole — of a trip to
Switzerland. An answer, however, is forthcoming,
and this is that in the Middle Ages people (with very
rare exceptions) did not climb mountains, for they were
very much afraid of them. Crossing passes was bad
enough, but it was necessary for travellers approach
ing Italy by land ; willingly, however, to incur fatigue
and danger in climbing a peak would have then been
looked on as a sign of folly, and is still so considered
by some people who have never felt the ' divine mad
ness ' of mountaineering. The famous ascent of the
Mont Ventoux (6,273 feet) in Provence made by Pe
trarch on April 26, 1836, is very nearly the only
known exception to this rule."^ The case of Mount
Pilatus, near Lucerne, is, however, typical. Accord
ing to the legend, the spirit of Pontius Pilate, after
his suicide, had roamed restlessly over sea and land,
till at length a wandering scholar prevented his deva
station of the neighbouring country by extorting his
consent to remain quietly in the lake on the mountain
which now bears his name. On Good Friday only
was he aUowed to rise from the waters ; but at other
times men shouting near the lake or throwing stones
into it roused his unquiet spirit, and a terrible con
vulsion of nature followed. The Government of
Lucerne, therefore, forbade all strangers to approach
the lake, and in 1387 six bold men who had broken

12 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
this regulation were imprisoned for a long time in
consequence of their reckless conduct.
It was only in the second stage of Swiss travel
that rnountain climbs became usual. In 1518 four
scientific men — Vadianus (Joachim von Watt) of
St. Gallon, Xylotectus (Zimmermann), of Lucerne,
Myconius (Geisshausler), of Lucerne and Grebel — by
special leave visited the lake, and ascended the peak.
They did not suffer any punishment at the hands of
Pilate," nor did Duke Ulrich of Wiirttemberg, who
repeated the ascent the same year. The famous
ascent made on August 21, 1555 — again by special
leave of the Lucerne magistrates — by Konrad Gesner
and his friends is one of the great turning points in
the history of Swiss travel, as it marks the end of
the period when fancied terrors kept men far from the
mountains, and was made for scientific purposes, and
to extend the domain of human knowledge. Gesner
himself (1516-1565), first a professor of Greek, then
of physics, and specially famous as a botanist, is
a type of the best side of the Eenaissance and
Eeformation period, full of curiosity to investigate
the secrets of nature, as well as of simple faith in
the God to Whom they owed their existence. His
words in a letter to his friend Avienus (Vogel of
Glarus) in 1541 may be quoted here : '* —
I am resolved henceforth, most learned Avienus, that,
as long as it may please God to grant me life, I wiU ascend
several mountains, or at least one, every year, at the
season when the flowers are in their glory, partly for the
sake of examining them, and partly for the sake of good

Gesner and Scheuchzer 13
bodily exercise and of mental delight. For how great a
pleasure, think you, is it, how great a delight for a man
touched as he ought to be, to wonder at the mass of the
mountains as one gazes on their vastness, and to hft up
one's head as it were amongst the clouds ? The understand
ing is deeply moved, I know not wherefore, by their amaz
ing height, and is driven to think of the Great Architect Who
made them. . . . Those who long after wisdom will go to
enjoy with the eyes of the body and of the mind the
¦ wondrous sights of this earthly paradise : amongst which
very far from the least are the soaring and rugged moun
tain summits, the untrodden precipices, the huge mountain
sides which rear themselves towards heaven, the frowning
, crags, and the thick forests.
In the sixteenth century, too, the topography of
Switzerland was first accurately studied and elabor
ated, the later work of Matthew Merian, of Basel
(1642), to be mentioned again presently, standing at
the head of the list of books on this subject. Ehelli-
canus celebrates his ascent of the Stockhorn, near
Thun, in 1586, in flowing Latin hexameters, and
Eebman wrote a metrical dialogue (dated 1605, en
larged edition 1620) between that peak and its
neighbour the Niesen, in which the peaks discuss,
inter alia, the men living at then base with a delight
ful unconsciousness that the descendants of those men
could ever be daring enough to disturb their loneli
ness by coming in great numbers. The mountains
were becoming better known and appreciated, when
the terrible shock of the Thirty Years' War (1618-
48) checked for a time this new tendency.
The true heir of Gesner is Scheuchzer. What

14 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the former had done on a small scale the latter was
able to do on a vastly larger one. Scheuchzer made
nine extended journeys (1702-11, none in 1708)
through his fatherland, noting aU that came in his
way, particularly scientific curiosities, and was in many
respects a good type of the traveller who goes about
with his eyes open. His narratives of his journeys of
1702-3-4 were issued in two separate works dated
respectively 1702 (Ziirich, 1702 journey only) and
1708 (London, 1702-3-4 journeys),'^ whfle those of all
his journeys were finally collected in a fat quarto of
685 pages (4 vols, in one, paged continuously), pub
lished at Leyden in 1723. It is dedicated to the
Eoyal Society of London, of which he was a FeUow,
and all the plates illustrating the journeys of 1702,
1703, and 1704, bear inscriptions stating that they
were engraved at the expense of such and such a
Fellow of the Eoyal Society, or other distinguished
personage. Sir Isaac Newton, Sir Hans Sloane,
Halley, and Dean Aldrich being included in the
number. It must not, however, be thought that
Scheuchzer had got rid of aU behef in marvellous
freaks of nature. The delightful pictures of dragons^"
and the grave and sober accounts of the appearances
of such monsters to honest men worthy of behef dis
prove this. But, for all that, Scheuchzer is entitled
to be held in honour by all travellers, for whom he
greatly smoothed the way by his labours, though rather
as a painstaking collector of facts than as a sound
phflosopher. Scheuchzer's very keen (if to our minds
somewhat uncritical) interest in the mountains of his

Definition of ' Guide-Books ' 1 5
native land is perhaps best illustrated by an impor
tant section (No. 125) in his ' Stoicheiographia '
(1716), which extends from page 157 to page 224 of
that work, of which it forms nearly one third. This
is a most elaborate and careful alphabetical catalogue
of all the peaks, passes, glaciers, pastures, Alpine
ranges and vfllages, of which he had ascertained the
existence, whether from personal experience or from
books. The Latin names are given as well as the
German, and under each head many most interesting
detafls are collected. It sums up the knowledge of the
mountains possessed by the most prominent of their
explorers before the ice world had been more than
touched, and contains much precise information which
even now is very interesting. This list, in fact, is a
sort of early dictionary of mountains — a forerunner,
in short, of the indices to Mr. Ball's ' Central Alps.'
I am deshous of attracting attention to it, as its im
portance does not seem to have been hitherto recog
nised. Of course, its value consists rather in the way
in which it brings together all known information
under each entry than in first-hand original observa
tions.

These general descriptions, though very interest
ing and valuable in themselves, are not, however,
guide-books, properly so caUed. A guide-book differs
from a narrative of a journey in that the former de
scribes things in the way best adapted for use on
the spot by travellers, while the latter describes the

1 6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
actual course of a real journey. A guide-book is, how
ever, largely dependent for material on narratives of
travels. It is not always easy to draw this distinction,
or to preserve it when drawn, especially when we are
dealing with books published before 1800. Two works,
however, neither of them a personal narrative of an
actual journey, but partaking of the nature both of
such a description and of a guide-book in the strict
sense, may be described here, and may serve as a bridge
from the first general descriptions of Switzerland to
the first Swiss guide-books.
These are the ' Commentarius de Alpibus ' (origin
ally published in 1574) of Josias Simler (1530-1576),
of Ziirich, and the ' Topographia Helvetise, Ehsetias et
Valesise ' (first published in 1642) of Matthew Merian
(1598-1650), of Basel, and Martin ZeiUer (1589-1661),
of Ulm. Simler's treatise fills 169 pages in the 24mo.
Elzevir edition of 1638, which also contains his essay
on the Valais (mainly based on Stumpf's account,
one of the best and fullest in his chronicle), and some
smaller tracts. It is historicaUy of very great im
portance, for it describes in considerable detail the
different districts of the Alpine chain, and is particu
larly interesting to mountaineers by reason of the
chapter (pp. 280-96) on the difficulties and dangers
of traveUing in the Alps. It is in this chapter (which
is well worth reading as a whole) that for the first time
sound practical advice is given as to the precautions
to be adopted when making excursions above the snow
line. Simler distinguishes four kinds of Alpine diffi-

Mountain Dangers 17
culties and dangers : (1) the narrowness or steepness
of the paths themselves (pp. 280-84) ; (2) ice (pp.
284-88) ; (8) snow, especially avalanches (pp. 288-92) ;
(4) cold winds and storms (292-96). Mr. Freshfield
has called attention^' to some of his statements on these
matters ; but as these classical passages appear to be
stiU but little known, though of extreme interest to
all chmbers who care for the past history of their art,
I make no apology for giving them at length in a work
relating to the early history of mountaineering. They
sum up the results of the experience of the sixteenth-
century climbers, whom we honour as our Alpine fore
fathers, and show the beginnings of an interest In the
exploration of the higher regions of the Alps. The
first passage describes crampons, alpenstocks, glissad
ing, and tobogganing. ' Precipitous and rugged places
further increase the difficulty of Alpine paths, and
particularly if the tracks are covered with ice, for which
reason the travellers and the shepherds, as well as the
hunters who frequently roam over the highest moun
tains, provide for their safety by various precautions.
To guard against the shpperiness of the ice, these
people are accustomed to tie iron shoes, hke those of
horses, and furnished with three sharp prongs, securely
to their feet, so that they may get firm foothold on the
ice ; others furnish the thongs, by which the sandals
are tied under the foot, in the same way with a very
sharp iron spike, and employ other means in order to
resist the shpperiness of the ice and to improve their
footing. In some places they use staves tipped with
an iron point, and, resting their weight on them, are
c

1 8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
in the habit of ascending and descending steep slopes.
These staves they caU alpenstocks, and they are chiefly
used by shepherds. Sometimes also shepherds and
hunters let themselves down steep and almost precipi
tous places, when there is no other way, by cutting
down branches from the trees (particularly firs), and
then sitting on them as though riding a horse, and thus
gliding down. When heavy carts are to be let down
difficult places like these, they sometimes lower them
by great ropes worked by means of cranes and pul
leys.' ^^ In certain cases the use of snow-shoes is
strongly recommended. ' Further, those who wish to
walk over deep snow, in places where there are no
paths, make use of the following expedient to prevent
themselves from sinking in. They tie to their feet
small and thin wooden boards or wooden hoops (such
as are used in binding wine casks) woven together by
a sort of lattice- work of cord of a foot in diameter.
In this fashion, as they make larger steps, they
do not sink in and do not go deep down into the
snow.' ^'
Cold and snow blindness are two of the great in
conveniences that travellers in snowy regions have to
guard against. Here are Simler's views on these
points : ' Further, amongst other evils, the intense
cold is very troublesome to those making a journey
through the Alps, especially as long as the north wind
is blowing, in consequence of which the limbs of many
men often burn by reason of the extreme cold, while
in the case of others their ears or noses, or in the case
of some persons their fingers or toes, and even the feet

Snow-Spectacles and the Rope 19
themselves, grow numb by reason of the cold, and die.
Many lose their eyes through continuaUy going over
snow. Against these evils there are various safeguards.
For the eyes, something black should be put over them,
or what they call glass spectacles. For other parts of
the body it is advisable that they should be well pro
tected against the cold by skins and thick clothes.
Paper and parchment protect the breast very well from
cold winds ; but if the feet are benumbed, at night,
when the shoes are taken off, the feet should be bathed
in cold water, warm water being gradually poured in ;
for so they think they are brought round. The best
precaution of all is constantly moving about, for it
happens sometimes that while ascending a mountain
men get heated by their exertions, and think that they
feel no cold ; but if they sit down in the snow for the
purpose of resting themselves drowsiness soon creeps
over them, and then with scarcely any feeling of pain
they are benumbed and die.' ^
Most vivid of all the passages in this chapter are
those in which Simler explains the proper way of
guarding against falling into crevasses. ' Further,
that ancient ice, over which one must sometimes make
one's way, has deep chasms in it, three or four feet
wide, and often even larger, into which if a man fall,
he must without doubt perish. It happens also that
these chasms may be covered by fresh snow, or by
snow blown together by the wind. Hence those who
then travel in the Alps hire men who know the place
to go in front as guides. They gird these men with a
rope, to which some of those who come after also bind
c 2

20 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
themselves ; the leading man sounds the way with a
long pole, and carefully keeps a look-out in the snow
for these chasms ; but if he unexpectedly falls into one
of them, he is held up and drawn out again by those
of his comrades who are tied by the same rope as he
is. When there is no snow over these pits, there is
less danger, but yet they must be crossed by a jump ;
for there are no bridges here except that sometimes
those who lead beasts of burden over such places
(which rarely happens) carry wooden planks with
them, and lay them before the beasts so that they can
cross these chasms by means of a bridge.' ^ The
last-named device is said to be practised on the Mer
de Glace at Chamonix, and is certainly stiU in use on
the Eismeer at Grindelwald. AU these descriptions
are marvellously vivid,^^ and the advice most exceUent.
Simler would clearly not have been a member of that
modern school of climbers which looks on the steepest
and most dangerous face of every peak as an ' Alpine
problem ' to be solved at any cost.
We must now turn to the work of Merian^ the
merit of which lies rather in its numerous (75 views
in all) and weU-executed copperplates than in the text.
The latter covers 72 folio pages, and was written by
Martin Zefller (though his name does not appear on the
title-page or in the body ofthe book) , who wrote, between
1632 and 1661, the letterpress for thirty other simflar
geographical works (generally containing fllustrations
by Merian), mostly entitled ' Topographia,'^^ a name
later superseded by ' Deliciffi,' 'Anleitung,' ' Handbook,'
and ' Pocket Book.' The series of thirty volumes issued

Merian 2 1
under this title by Merian and his sons began with
the ' Helvetia ' in 1642, and was brought to a close
with the ' Itaha ' in 1688, the set forming a stately
work of permanent historical value. Merian's numer
ous fllustrations are excellent. They are mainly views
of Swiss towns and castles, and are much prized for
their accuracy. There is only one of a speciaUy Alpine
character, a double-page representation of the Lower
Grindelwald glacier (p. 25), a most interesting view,
and very fairly accurate, allowing for the fact that
glaciers were stfll looked on as uncanny things.
Zeifler supplies half a page of letterpress on the
subject, his general ideas on glaciers being taken from
Stumpf's Chronicle (first issued in 1546) and Eeb-
man's poem (1620 edition). There is also a large
map (rather overcrowded with names) of Switzerland,
the Graubiinden, and the Valais, made and engraved
in 1687 by Hans Conrad Geiger, of Zurich (1599-
1674), best known by his map of the canton of Ziirich
(1668), the 'masterpiece of old Swiss cartography.'
Merian's plates were frequently reproduced later,
Wagner in his ' Mercurius Helveticus,' Scheuchzer in
his ' Itinera Alpina,' and Euchat in his ' Delices de la
Suisse,' making use of them ; ^^ but of course they are
clearest and best in the original edition. The towns
had not yet lost their mediaeval appearance, and for
local history the views are extremely important. A
second and revised edition of Merian's work was issued
in 1654 (folio, 90 pages and 80 plates). We may take
Simler's work as supplying valuable material for the
introduction to a guide-book, and Merian's as sug-

22 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
gesting the desirability of inserting iUustrations in
such a book; but neither — though more than de
scriptions, and not personal narratives — is a guide
book, strictly so called, in point of form or of matter.

The first real Swiss guide-book of which the exist
ence is known to me was published in 1684, by J.
J. Wagner, the famous Ziirich naturahst (1641-95),
who in 1680 had put forth his ' Historia Naturalis
Helvetise Curiosa,' a little 12mo., which was the first
purely scientific work on Switzerland. This first
Swiss guide-book bore the title of ' Index Memo-
rabilium Helvetise,' and took that of ' Mercurius
Helveticus ' in its second edition (1688). A third
appeared in 1701, and is the one I have examined : a
copy of it is in the library of the Alpine Club, and I
have lately secured another for my own hbrary.^^
After a preliminary dissertation, fiUing forty pages,
on the topography, history, and political condition of
the Confederation, we find that the names of the
places (only the larger and more important ones
being mentioned) are arranged in alphabetical order,
each with a more or less lengthy description, the con
clusion being formed by a table of coins current in
the Confederation and some itineraries. These short
descriptions, from Aigle to Zurzach, fill pages 41 to
229 of the book, and it is in this part of the work
that we find the engravingSj^" nearly every town hav
ing one to itself. In fact, it is in this respect a sort
of handy Merian. Careful attention is paid to the

' D Alices de la Suisse' 23
antiquities of each place, but towns, castles, and
villages are alone described. There are no heads for
Interlaken, Grindelwald, or Lauterbrunnen, nor do
Chamonix, Visp, or Zermatt appear. Brieg is dis
missed in two Unes. In short, it is a guide rather
to man's works situated within or near the terri
tories of the Confederation than to the beauties of
Nature, the appreciation of which did not become
general till half a century or so later. Its main in
terest lies in the fact that it is the parent of every
Swiss guide-book since published.
A far more elaborate work is the ' Delices de la
Suisse,' ^' in four 12mo. volumes, published at Leyden
in 1714 by Peter Van der Aa, Scheuchzer's publisher.'^
It was issued under the fictitious name of ' Gottlieb
Kypseler de Miinster,' the real name of the author
being Abraham Euchat (1680-1750), a 'pasteur' at
Aubonne and EoUe, later Professor of Theology at
the Academy of Lausanne, and author of ' A History
of the Eeformation in Switzerland ' (1727-28). It ran
through several editions, the latest which Von Haller
mentions being the quarto (2 vol.) issue of 1778. The
second and later editions were enriched by a disserta
tion on ' L'llltat de la Suisse,' mainly translated and
adapted from a book published at London in 1714,
in English, and anonymously, but really by Abraham
Stanian, or Stanyan, the English envoy to the Con
federation for eight years or more.'' There are many
iUustrations and views, mainly of towns and build
ings. The matter of the ' Delices ' is arranged in an
amusingly compUcated fashion, corresponding to the

24 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
intricate political condition of the Confederation in
those days. After a general topographical description
come the thirteen full cantons in strict order of pre
cedence, each divided into its baihwicks and minor
districts. These are followed by the ' subject ' districts
ruled in common by all or some of the thirteen can
tons, and then by the ' allies ' of the Confederation in
due order. The information is no longer arranged in
alphabetical order ; the scheme is rather hard to
grasp, and one must frequently resort to the exceUent
index given at the close. Eoughly speaking, it is the
historical, political, and scientific departments which
are most carefully looked after — matters so much
neglected by modern Swiss guide-books that Herr
Peyer (p. 164), in despair, declares that the guide
books of to-day are far inferior in point of all-round
completeness to those of the eighteenth century.
There is a whole section devoted to the ' Alps ' in the
Introduction. The obligations of the compfler to
Wagner and Scheuchzer are acknowledged in the
preface.

As the eighteenth century advanced, Albrecht von
Haller^s poem (' Die Alpen,' 1782) and Eousseau's
writings (' La NouveUe Heloise,' 1760, ' Confessions,'
1766-70) popularised the ' playground ' view of
Switzerland ; but these authors were content to admire
great mountains from below, leaving the task of
ascending them to such men as the Delucs, Bourrit,
De Saussure, and the monk Placidus a Spescha of

Early Ascents of Snow Peaks 25
Dissentis, and of describing them to Altmann, Gruner,
Bourrit, the Delucs, Bordier, and De Saussure.'''
The higher regions now began to be explored.
The ascent of the Titlis by an Engelberg monk in
1739, of the Buet by the brothers Deluc in September
1770, and of the Velan by M. Murith, prior of the
Great St. Bernard Hospice, on August 31, 1779, are
the first three recorded ascents of snow peaks in the
Alps. The glaciers of Mont Blanc attracted attention,
as they were visible from Geneva, and soon supplanted
those of the Bernese Oberland, which had up to
this time been the only ice- streams personally ex
amined by Swiss men of science. Here, however, a
popular error must be guarded against, for it is stiU
not uncommonly said that Chamonix '* was ' dis
covered ' by the English travellers Pococke and Wind
ham in 1741.'" It is quite true that they were the
first men who visited it as tourists ; but there had
been a Benedictine priory there since the early thir
teenth century (of which the cartulary and a detailed
history have lately been published ''), and the bishops
of Geneva penetrated thither as far back as 1411 to
hold their Visitations, St. Francis de Sales, in 1606,
having but followed the example of his predecessors
in that see.

The first ajpproach to a special guide-book of an
Alpine district of Switzerland is a little work by
Pfarrer Samuel. Wyttenbach (1748-1880), which was
published in 1777. It was issued at Bern in German

26 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and in French, Von Haller (i. 441-42, No. 1472)
as usual giving us full bibliographical details of
each edition. The German edition fills only twenty-
four octavo pages, and is entitled ' Kurze Anleitung
fur diejenigen, welche eine Eeise durch einen Thefl
der merkwiirdigsten Alpgegenden des Lauterbrunnen-
thals, Grindelwald und iiber Meyringen auf Bern
zuriick, machen woUen ' ; the title suggests that it
deals only with the regular Oberland round, an idea
which is confirmed by the description given in Ebel's
' Anleitung ' (i. 1-2). The French edition consisted
of twenty-eight octavo pages, and had a much shorter
and less descriptive title : ' Instruction pour les Voya-
geurs [so Wyss, not 'Etrangers,' as Von HaUer says]
qui vont voir les Glaciers et les Alpes du Canton de
Berne,' of which an edition issued in 1787 was en
larged to forty pages (8vo.). I have been able to
examine a copy of the 1787 French edition of this
pamphlet, through the kindness of Mr. Schuster. Ac
cording to the preface it is meant as a handy substitute
for the more cumbrous works of Scheuchzer and
Gruner. After some preliminary advice as to the
outfit of the traveller, the regular Oberland round is
described from Bern by Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen,
Wengern Alp, Great Scheidegg, Brienz, and so back to
Bern. The Staubbach and the ' Jungfrauhorn ' are
specially mentioned as the sights of Lauterbrunnen.
Two excursions to or on the glaciers are described, and
in both cases the travellers are warned to take the
greatest precaution's against the numberless dangers
which beset them there. One is the visit to the

The Oberland Round 27
Steinberg Alp and Breithorn glacier, which will take a
whole day from Lauterbrunnen and back ; the other is
to the Lower Grindelwald glacier, the most daring per
sons sometimes pushing on to the Banisegg, or even to
the Zasenberg. The pass over the Wengern Alp is
described in glowing terms, but the path is said to
be barely possible for horses except at the cost of
great inconvenience, a statement probably based on
personal experience in 1771, since Wyttenbach and
his friend Von Bonstetten were the first travellers
who are known to have made this pass (Wyss, French
edition, ii. 121; German, 528). At Grindelwald
mention is made of the old pass to the Valais, and of
the old beU stiU preserved in Grindelwald (see ' Alpine
Journal,' xiii. 180). At Meiringen there are several
other expeditions suggested and briefly described —
the Grimsel and then the Furka to Uri, or the Gries
to Italy ; the Joch Pass to Engelberg, where the monks
were very hospitable ; and the Briinig to Lucerne.
The round from Bern and back is estimated to re
quire four days, or possibly only three : Lauterbrun
nen, Grindelwald, Tracht (close to Brienz), and Thun
being the night quarters recommended. Herr B.
Studer (p. 447) says that Wyttenbach personally
visited many parts of the Bernese Oberland, and, as
we shall see presently, he was a great guide-book
maker and adapter.
As the Mont^ Blanc district was the first explored
in detafl, so it was the first to be made the subject of
a special guide-book of any pretensions to complete
ness, such as that published at Lausanne in 1790

28 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
under the title of ' Itineraire de la vallee de Chamonix,
d'une partie du Bas-Valais et des montagnes avoisi-
nantes ' (12mo. 239 pages), which is very fairly com
plete, and most businesslike. The author was, as
appears from the preface, Jj'^erthout van Berchem,
a man of Dutch descent, but, hke his father, one of
the ornaments of the ' Societe des Sciences Phy
siques/ of Lausanne, of which he was secretary. He
reproduces De Saussure's panorama from the Buet,
and gives a reduced copy of the map of Chamonix and
the neighbouring glens, which was executed by Henri
Abram Exchaquet (1742-1814), the ' directeur des
fonderies du Haut Faucigny.''' This is largely taken
up, according to Herr Studer (p. 540), with minera-
logical matters, and is based on De Saussure's ' Voyages
dans les Alpes.' The book is dedicated to De Saus
sure. It contains a minute description of the route
to Chamonix from Geneva by Bonnevflle, SaUanches,
and Servoz, and directions for making excursions to the
Brevent, Montanvert, Chapeau, Source de I'Arveiron,
Jardin, Plan des Aiguilles, besides the ' grandes
courses ' of the Col du Geant and of Mont Blanc.
From Chamonix the traveller is given his choice of
going to Martigny either by the Col de Balme or
by Valorsine (the Tete Noire), the guide-book con
cluding with the description of the Buet, and of the
routes from Servoz up that peak and the Brevent.
Nearly forty pages at the end are taken up by an
elaborate and detafled catalogue (based on the notes
of Professor Struve) of geological specimens from
Mont Blanc and the neighbouring ranges. Among

Bourrit 29
the notices, at the end, of certain natural history ob
jects which can be purchased from M. Struve and
M. Exchaquet, it is curious to read (p. 232) of a rehef
of the Chamonix VaUey. Here is the description
of this very curious and remarkable work : ' No. 5.
Belief de la vallee de Chamonix et des chaines de
montagnes qui la bordent. II a un pied, 7 pouc. 6
hg. de longueur, sur 11 pouc. de largeur. Le bas de
la piece est suppose le niveau de la mer et Techelle est
d'une ligne pour 34 toises. Ce rehef est en bois
d'arole et colorie. II represente les rochers, les
glaciers et tous les chemins, sentiers, bois et hameaux
de ces montagnes ; on a aussi indique les divers
endroits ou se trouvent les fossiles de la collection (sc.
a vendre). Le prix est de huit louis et quart.' It
would be interesting to know whether any copies of
this relief — now nearly 100 years old — are still in ex
istence. On page 231 ofthe same work a simflar relief
of tTie St. Gotthard mountains is announced as in
preparation.'^ In this work there appears, apparently
for the first time in a guide-book, an account of the
ascent of Mont Blanc, summarised from De Saussure's
narrative.*" Next comes the first edition of that enthusiastic
cUmber Marc Theodore Bourrit's ' Itineraire,' of which
the date is 1791. The second edition came out in
1792 (a copy of it is in the Alpine Club Library), and
bears the title ' Itineraire de Geneve, Lausanne et
Chamouny,' which was that of the first edition, and
was extended in the 1808 issue to that of ' Itineraire de
Geneve, des Glaciers de Chamouni, du Valais et du

30 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
canton de Vaud.' The third edition, a copy of which
is in my possession, is dated 1808, and is a great
advance on the 1790 book, describing the early Alpine
history of Mont Blanc in considerable detail, though
the indefatigable author was never himself successful,
despite numerous very plucky attempts, in setting his
foot on its summit. The whole scheme is that of the
1790 book, but executed in greater detafl and with
greater accuracy. In addition, it includes the ' Tour
du Mont Blanc,' the Cramont, the Great St. Bernard,
and the Col de la Fenetre, besides descriptions of the
new Simplon road, Sion, Bex, Vevey, and Geneva.
It forms a 12mo. volume of 352 pages, published at
Geneva by J. J. Paschoud, but has no map or
illustrations. As far as I have been able to ascertain,
this work has entirely escaped the notice of Von Haller
or of Herr B. Studer. The 1809 Ebel (i. 2) says of it
that the sections treating of Geneva are very useful,
but the rest of the work less so; whfle the 1818
(Frerich) Ebel says that it is a good and useful book
for the districts of which it treats. It is clear, how
ever, that this guide-book did not satisfy all wants, for
in the narrative of the accidental death of M. E schen
on the Buet on August 7, 1800 (the first recorded
accident to a tourist in the snow regions), we are told
that vol. iii. of De Saussure's ' Voyages ' was found
on him.^' These were the first three regular guide-books to
special Alpine districts that were ever published.
They are consequently of great historical interest;
but are simply the forerunners and vanguard 'of a

Heidegger 3 1
host of similar publications which appeared between
the years 1790 and 1815, for a fufl account of which
I must refer my readers to Herr Studer's book, pp.
539-55. Many of them are most interesting to those
who are working up the history of a limited district ;
but in a sketch such as I am trying to give here they
cannot find any place and can receive only this passing
aUusion.

Eeturning to the subject of general guide-books,
we come to the chief general Swiss guide-book of the
pre-Ebehan era. This was a work published in octavo
at Zinich (2 parts, 1787-89 ; 2nd edition, 1790-91 ;
3rd edition, 1796) — the 'Handbuch fiir Eeisende
durch die Schweiz,' of which the French translation
(issued in 1790) was caUed ' Manuel de I'Etranger qui
voyage en Suisse.' It was incorporated with Ebel in
1818. Ebel (i. 1) speaks in very high terms of it,
though allowing that it has some defects. I possess
copies of the three editions, but that of the first
edition has now no preface, and perhaps never had,
since the author tells us in the preface to the second
edition that the work was published anonymously.
The preface to the second edition is signed 'H. H. . . .',
whfle that to the third has the full name ' H. Hei
degger.' The title-pages of the second and third
editions state that these new issues have been largely
increased in size and much improved.
In my copy of the first edition, the second part is
dated 1790, and is no doubt a copy of the second

32 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
edition, with which it agrees in every particular.
The first part of the 1787 edition contains 200 pages
of Itineraries (reckoned in Stunden), starting from
Zinich, Bern, Lucerne, Altdorf, Schwytz, Sarnen,
Zug, Glarus, Basel, Freiburg, Solothurn, Schaffhausen,
and Appenzell. (The author apologises, on the ground
of want of space, for omitting the routes from St.
Gallon, Chur, Sion, Mulhouse, Bienne, Neuchatel,
Geneva, and Porrentruy, some of which can be ascer
tained by combining one or more of those given.)
These Itineraries are the foreshadowing or first sketch
of the system of ' routes ' now so commonly adopted
in guide-books, which, so far as I know, was not
carried out in detail until the first edition of 'Murray'
in 1888. The second edition (pp. xvi. 184, 191) is made up
of two distinct portions, each filling a volume. The
first volume contains a set of Itineraries to various
places in Switzerland, starting in succession from the
chief towns of the thirteen cantons (arranged in strict
order of precedence), as well as to St. Gallon, Chur,
and Geneva, more details being given than in the first
edition, and the pages being more closely printed.
Among the routes starting from the latter place is one
taking the traveUer to Martigny by way of SaUanches,
Chamonix, and either the Col de Balme or Tete Noire,
the excursions from Chamonix (including the Col du
Geant to Courmayeur) being described in considerable
detail (the whole route fills pages 175-81), and
greatly relieving the monotony of this volume. The
second volume contains an alphabetically arranged

Heidegger 33
dictionary of places in Switzerland (in the strict sense),
some of the articles being very elaborate and giving
many (a hostile critic said too many) historical details.
There is a fairly full account of Grindelwald (pp. 63-
64), but Lauterbrunnen gets only half a line under
the head ' Liitschinen (Zwey) ' ; while under ' Visp '
(p. 150) there is not the slightest allusion to the
Zermatt or Saas vaUeys. Some tables of the coins
current in the different parts of the Confederation,
and a list of the Latin forms of the names of certain
important towns and districts, are placed at the close
of this volume. In the preface there are some hints
given for a foot journey of eight to ten days, starting
from Ziirich, whfle Coxe's and Bourrit's works are
specially recommended ; but by far the greater part
of the introduction is taken up with a reply to a hos-
tfle criticism published in the ' Schweizerische Biblio
thek ' in 1791 (i. 24-81). Among other things the
reviewer pointed out that the author had not given
the names of the mns. Heidegger defends himself by
urging that in small places there is no inn, or only
one, in which case the name is of no consequence ;
whfle in the towns the same inn varies much at dif
ferent times, so that in recommending any house in
particular, one might be drawing away custom from
that which is really the best. Whatever may be
thought of this reply, it is certain that the omission of
this feature — so conspicuous in modern Swiss guide
books — strikes one at the present time as very odd.
A smaU and very rough map is given at the end of
the second volume. A supplement was published in

34 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1792, of which the titles of the German and French
editions were : ' Ueber das Eeisen durch die Schweiz,
oder kurze Anleitung fiir Auslander,' and ' Avis sur
les Voyages en Suisse, ou Instructions succinctes
pour les Voyageurs.'
This supplement fills sixty-eight pages of the third
(1796) edition (pp. Ixxii. 198, 207), and forms the
most considerable addition to it, although the book
had been revised throughout. The passage relating
to Chamonix is unchanged ; in fact, the only altera
tion in the Itineraries is the addition of Neuchatel
and Constanz to the list of places from which routes
to other places are described. At the end of vol. i.
some new tables are placed, giving information as to
the area and population of the thirteen cantons, of
their ' allies ' and of their ' subject-lands.' In the
second volume the descriptions of Grindelwald and
Visp are unaltered, but ' Lauterbrunnen ' appears as
a separate article, in the three lines of which room
is found for a mention of the ' beautiful waterfall,
the Staubbach.' The map is considerably improved,
though still rather rough, and is placed between the
Introduction and the Itineraries. The Preface re
commends Ebel's guide-book, which had come out
since the last edition of Heidegger, and it is explained
that the present work is meant for those who wish to
see the marvels of nature only in Switzerland, rather
than for the foreigners who desire to travel all over
the country.
The supplement of 1792, which stands as the
Introduction of the 1796 edition, deserves special

Hints to Travellers 35
attention, and reminds us in many ways of Wytten-
bach's 1787 ' Instruction pour les Voyageurs,' noticed
above. In it the short hints for a trip given in the
1790-91 edition are expanded and much improved,
whfle the author condescends so far to break through
his rule of not mentioning inns, as to occasionally
state that there is an inn in such or such a place,
though he stiU does not deign to give its name. First
of aU comes some excellent advice as to the delights
of traveUing on foot, and as to the best way of avoid
ing various inconveniences, great stress being laid on
the necessity of having a stout pair of nailed boots,
gaiters, and a strong alpenstock. Then comes some
information as to the ' Alps ' in the strict sense of the
word (that is, the mountain pastures), the snow and
ice region (short and disappointing, though it is
stated that half of Switzerland is made up of snow
and ice), and avalanches, as well as to the geo
logical and zoological features of the land. The re
maining forty-eight pages are taken up by a very care
ful description of a scheme for a fortnight's journey
through Switzerland, and are obviously intended to
serve as a sort of handy practical guide, to be carried
in one's pocket. It is largely based on the personal
experience of the author. Starting from Ziirich, the
traveUer is advised to proceed to Lucerne, where he is
to make an excursion on the lake,^^ possibly pushing
as far as the St. Gotthard. In the latter case he may
reach Engelberg by the Surenen Pass, whereas less
adventm-ous persons may return to Stanz and pro
ceed up the valley to that village. When describing ¦a 2

'36 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the neighbourhood of the monastery, mention is of
course made of the Titlis, and its second ascent
(September 14, 1785) by Dr. Feierabend (physician
of the abbot) with two monks and many other com
panions is described in considerable detafl.*' Ebel, too
(in 1804 and 1809) dwells on this ascent, which
seems to have created as great interest in Central
Switzerland as the first ascent of Mont Blanc, made
about a year later, did amid the learned men of
Geneva. It is in connection with Engelberg also
that a full account is given of Alp -hfe and of the
mysteries of cheese-making. From Engelberg the
traveller is strongly urged to cross the Joch Pass to
Meiringen, making an excursion to the Grimsel on
the way, though less energetic persons may make
the round by Stanz and the Brunig. At Meiringen
the traveller is again invited to choose between the
beautiful but rather arduous route to Grindelwald
over the ' Grindelwald Scheideck,' and that by the
lake of Brienz,' Unterseen, and Zwei Liitschinen —
Heidegger, as usual, strongly recommending the moun
tain journey. Lauterbrunnen is the next point to be
gained, whether by the ' Lauterbrunnen Scheideck '
(or Wengern Alp) or round by Zwei Liitschinen.
The mountains are then left by way of the lake of
Thun and Thun itself. Then one can go to Bern
and Solothurn, and visit the watchmakers of Neu
chatel on the way to Basel. Heidegger, how
ever, warmly recommends that from Thun the
traveller should go by way of the Simmenthal,
Saanen, and Sepey, to Bex and Martigny, whence

7'tFO Guide-Books in French 37
Chamonix can easily be reached, and so finally
Geneva. Such was the ' regula,r Swiss Bound ' near
the end of the eighteenth century, and it is curious
to see how very nearly it corresponds with the route
commonly followed even now, nearly one hundred
years later.
Heidegger's book was the principal general Swiss
guide-book before the appearance of that of Ebel,
and his three editions (like the first of Ebel) are
particularly valuable and interesting as describing
Switzerland just before the great change in 1798, by
which the whole pohtical system of the country was
entu-ely transformed, after an existence of nearly five
hundred years. After 1796, the book was reprinted
several times with slight modifications. In 1818,
Glutz-Blotzheim issued a guide-book in one volume,
which was mainly a revised and corrected edition of
Heidegger, though there was also a certain admixture
of Ebel, and henceforth the two works of Heidegger
and Ebel are fused into one.
Next in point of date come two works with very
similar titles. These are the ' Guide du Voyageur en
Suisse ' (Lausanne, 1788 ; 2nd edition 1790), and
the ' Guide des Voyageurs en Suisse ' (Paris, 1790) .
Ebel, even in his first edition in 1798, carefully dis
tinguishes them. He states that the former is trans
lated from the Enghsh, but that the latter is the
better book of the two, though both are very incom
plete and unsatisfactory. Herr Peyer (p. 159), describ
ing a book (bearing the latter title) issued at Paris
and Geneva in 1791, states that it contains 390

38 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
pages, and that the matter is no longer arranged
alphabetically, but according to a scheme for an
imaginary journey starting from Geneva, and that it
describes many excursions from various places
selected as headquarters. I have not come across a
copy of the Paris 1790-91 book. It is, however,
described at length in the 1791 periodical called
'Schweizerische Bibliothek' (i. 111-23), whence it
appears that it had an introduction of 60 duode
cimo pages, while the main text filled 891. It was
much fuller and better than the 1788 book, and was
an independent production, apparently by a Swiss
writer. Of that originaUy issued at Lausanne in
1788 I possess a copy. It is the thhd edition,
' corrigee et augmentee," is dated August 1794, en
titled ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse,' and was pub
lished at Lausanne as a 12mo. of 204 pages. It is
historically very important, not so much because of
the matter contained in it as by reason of the system
of itineraries therein contained. The scheme is
neither alphabetical, like Wagner, nor political, hke
the ' Delices ' ; but in the itineraries given at the end
we detect for the first time in a Swiss guide-book the
germs of the arrangement in ' routes ' now adopted in
every guide-book. Lausanne is taken as the centre,
and the routes thence to the chief Swiss towns are
described in detail, including the names of inns.
The general information in the book is arranged on
the supposition that the traveller starts from Geneva,
and makes a ' circular tour ' through the territories of
the Confederation — this tour extending as far as

T. M.'s Book in French 39
Basel, Zurich, and the Forest Cantons, and ending with
the Valais, whence we are brought back to Geneva by
way of Chamonix. As is usual in all these early
guide-books, whfle Chamonix is described in detail,
Grindelwald and its glaciers are dismissed rather
briefly, while Zermatt is not even mentioned. This
work seems to be simply a translation of the first
edition of ' T. M.'s ' (Thomas Martyn) ' Sketch of a
Tour through Swisserland,'''* the text of the two
books being almost, if not quite, identical, certain
notes as to inns and distances being omitted, and
others containing slight corrections inserted. The
original first edition did not mention that it was a
translation, but a 1788 reprint at Geneva has on its
title-page, ' Traduit de I'Anglois,' words which do not
appear in the genuine second edition of 1790. The
map of ' T. M.'s ' book, however, is not in any way
represented in the work of his French editor. But in
the English work (at any rate in my copy of the 1788
edition) the itineraries of the French translation are
wanting, and it is these which are of such great his
torical importance in the history of Swiss guide-books.
In the com-se of a careful review of the second French
edition, in the ' Schweizerische Bibliothek ' (i. 107-9)
it is stated that these itineraries were not in the
first edition, but were added in the second (1790),
and are taken, with a few slight alterations, from
Heidegger's ' Handbuch ' ; but the latter statement
appears to me to be entirely unfounded, since, after
carefully comparing the two books together, I can
find nothing to warrant it, for Heidegger's book

40 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
does not give any itineraries from Lausanne a
aU. There are several other general Swiss guide-books
of the pre-Ebelian era of which I can give but a
meagre account. In the preparation of two of them
Samuel Wyttenbach (1748-1880), a Bernese ' pasteur '
and a great contributor to guide-book literature, had
the chief share.
A certain Monsieur de Felice, wishing to rival the
Paris " Encyclopedie,' collected a great staff of con
tributors, and issued a very extensive work (58
volumes, 4to., 1770-1776), entitled ' Encyclopedie, ou
Dictionnaire raisonne des Sciences,' which, from the
place of its publication, was popularly known as the
' Encyclopedie d'Yverdun.' Wyttenbach coUected to
gether the articles relating to Switzerland, and before
the main work was ended issued them under the title
of ' Dictionnaire geographique, historique et politique
de la Suisse ' (Neuchatel, 1775, 2 vols., 8vo.), and in
a German translation, with very large additions and
corrections, as ' Historische, geographische und physi-
kalische Beschreibung des Schweizerlandes ' (Bern,
1782-84, 3 vols., 8vo.). (This German translation
and revision was put back into French in 1788 at
Geneva, filling 8 vols., 8vo.). To vol. i. of the
German translation (1782) Wyttenbach added a tract
or treatise of his own, which is of mterest to us. Its
title is given differently by the two authorities I am
following. Herr Studer (pp. 831, 537-38) gives it as
' Anleitung fur Eeisende durch die Schweiz ' ; whereas
Herr Eudolf Wolf, in his life of Wyttenbach (' Bio-

Besson 41
graphien zur Kulturgeschichte der Schweiz,' i. 870-
71), cites it as ' Kurze Anweisung fiir diejenigen
welche Eeisen durch die Schweiz unternehmen woUen.'
Von Haller (i. 170, No. 748) speaks of it rather vaguely,
and states that it was 28 pages in length. Herr Studer
(p. 881) speaks very highly of the 1782-84 and 1788
editions of the ' Dictionnaire,' and goes so far as to
say that it was the first guide-book for traveUers pub
hshed since Wagner's ' Mercurius Helvetius.' But,
however useful it may be, it is rather a dictionary or
encyclopsedia than a book for the use of tourists while
on their travels.
Monsieur H. Besson, a distinguished French geo
logist and artist,*' contributed an introduction, en
titled ' Discours sur I'Histoire Naturelle de la Suisse,'
to the splendid iUustrated work by De Laborde and
De Zurlauben, which was published at Paris between
1777 and 1780. This introduction was considerably
enlarged by Wyttenbach, who issued it in 1786 (2 vols.,
pp. 264, 198, 8vo.) under the title of ' Manuel pour
les Savans et les Curieux qui voyagent en Suisse, par
Mr. Besson, avec des notes par Mr. W. . .' Its inter
est is chiefly mineralogical, as M. Besson possessed a
magnificent mineralogical coUection in Paris, and it is
the first guide-book exclusively designed for the use
of men of science, though aU the early guide-books
are largely taken up with matters of science. Herr
Studer says (p. 533) that for twenty years it remained
unsurpassed in its hne.
Of two other guide-books published towards the
close of the eighteenth century I can give even fewer

42 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
details than in the case of the two by Wyttenbach.
One is Eeichard's ' Handbuch fiir Eeisende aus aUen
Standen ' (1785) . Its impending pubhcation is an
nounced with great anticipations by Von Haller (i. p.
176, No. 757). Mr. Freshfield*" just mentions it,
and so does Herr Peyer (p. 165), who adds that
another work by the same writer had, in 1831, reached
its seventh edition, which seems to show a consider
able degree of popularity. The title of this latter
book was (according to J. E. Wyss, p. 75 of the Ger
man edition of the ' Voyage dans I'Oberland Bernois ')
' Der Passagier auf der Eeise in Deutschland, in der
Schweiz, zu Paris, und Petersburg' (Berlin), 140
pages being devoted to a description of Switzerland
and issued separately. Wyss, however, thought that
Eeichard's ' Guide des Voyageurs en Italie et en
Suisse (Weimar, 7th edition 1818 — an Sth announced
in 1816) was almost better so far as Switzerland was
concerned, 184 closely printed pages being given to that
country and the valley of Chamonix. Mr. Marett
possesses an English edition ('anew edition' 1819) of
Eeichard's ' Itinerary of Germany,' in which we find
that in the four or five cases in which routes from
towns in Germany to towns in Switzerland (Basel,
Schaffhausen, and St. Gall) are described, a reference
is given for descriptions of the latter to Ebel's Guide
through Switzerland.
Finally Von Haller (i. 176, No. 757) announces in
1784 the approaching publication, at Ziirich, of an
octavo guide-book to be entitled ' Wegweiser fur
Eeisende durch die Schweiz,' of which the third

Ebel 43
edition appeared in 1829 at Aarau, as we shall see
presently. There are doubtless other guide-books of the pre-
Ebehan age which have escaped my notice ; but those
published since the first edition of the ' Delices '
(1714), which I have attempted to describe, show that
Swiss travel was becoming popular, and that some
guide-book would have to be written to meet all the
requirements of the increasing host of visitors to
Switzerland whether for pohtical or other reasons.

Such was the state of things when, in 1798, there
appeared at Ziirich the first edition of what was des
tined to become, for about half a century, the Swiss
guide-book. This was the ' Anleitung auf die
niitzhchste und genussvoUste Art die Schweitz zu
bereisen,' by Johann Gottfrie^Ebel. The first edition
fiUed two small Bvo. volumes. The first volume
(pp. 174) contained general information, the second
(pp. 211) an alphabetically arranged description of
places, the information being very much compressed.
This edition has also a view of the Alps from Zurich,
views from the Albis, from near Ziirich and from the
Jura, and a plate figuring ' crampons.' The second
edition (1804-5) filled four volumes (one introductory,
three containing text), and was much improved.*''
Before the death of the author (1830) the book was com
pressed into a single volume ; while the eighth and last
edition (in 734 octavo pages, double columns) appeared
in 1848 in very modern style (though still arranged

44 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
alphabetically), with outline panoramas from the Eigi
and Paulhorn (printed on the same sheet, back to back),
a route map, &c., and cost seven French francs. ' Ebel,'
therefore, represented to travellers eighty or ninety
years ago what ' Murray ' and ' Badeker ' are to us
now. It is worth while, then, to examine the contents
of this guide-book with special care. It is well to bear
in mind that while the first edition (1798) describes
the complicated political condition of the Swiss Con
federation before its overthrow in 1798, the second
and third (1804 and 1809) describe the nineteen
cantons under Napoleon's 1808 Act of Mediation, and
the fourth (1818) deals with the twenty-two cantons
as we know them now — though this state of things dates
only from the Congress of Vienna, 1814-15; whfle the
seventh (1841) and eighth (1848) describe the country
after the great democratic revolution which began in
1880, and before the Sonderbund War in 1847. Let
us take the third, revised and enlarged edition (the
last before the fusion of Ebel and Heidegger in 1818),
in its German form (Zurich, 1809-10, in four volumes,
containing 2,167 octavo pages). The first volume is
filled with general considerations, such as the advan
tages of Swiss travel and what there is to see in
Switzerland. The ' air cure ' is speciaUy insisted on,
and also pedestrian excursions. Precise information
is given as to expenses, the best seasons for a trip, the
equipment of the traveller, also a table of coins, and a
short vocabulary of peculiar Swiss expressions (Swiss-
German, Swiss-French, and Eomansch), all familiar
paragraphs in the guide-books of to-day, which have

Ebel 45
based their arrangement of their introductory sections
very largely on that of Ebel. The first volume con
tains, too, a special chapter on climbing, the necessity
of taking guides, ropes, poles {Stangen, I imagine, to
bridge crevasses, not for ordinary use as alpenstocks*^),
or ladders being insisted on, whfle nailed boots are
described in detafl, and crampons strongly recom
mended, a figure and minute account of the best kind
being given at the end of vol. i. of each edition. We
find, too, advice as to snow-blindness (the use of a
piece of blue or green crape over the eyes is recom
mended, nothing apparently being said about spec
tacles) and sunburn (bathe the face with a solution of
water and volatfle alkah), drinking snow-water, &c.,
as weU as a number of sketch routes in Switzerland,
and directions how best to reach the country if coming
from foreign lands. The volume is completed by a
most valuable list of books and maps relating to the
country, which is a long way ahead of those in the
earlier guide-books, and compares favourably with the
same section in any of its successors. In the other
volumes the matter is arranged in alphabetical order
under the names of the various places ; this seems to us
a backward step after the advance noted above in the
case of the ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse' (2nd edition,
1790), but no doubt when Switzerland was less well
known to tourists than at present it was convenient to
have everything sorted out in this artificial way. The
article on ' Glaciers ' is clearly arranged, and extends
over eight pages. The description of the vaUey of
Chamonix fiUs twenty- four pages, whfle Mont Blanc is

46 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
honoured with fourteen more. Lauterbrunnen gets
twelve pages, Grindelwald eight. The Visp valleys
for the first time in a guide-book come into promi
nence, having been passed overinthe first edition (1793),
but now taking up eight pages (as in the edition of 1804),
whfle the article on ' Monte Eosa ' (inconveniently
entered under ' E,' though Mont Blanc appears under
' M ') fiUs three in each of those of 1804 and 1809. A
long account is given of the passage of the St. Theodule,
and the Weiss Grat (or Arete Blanche) is mentioned as
an ' extremely dangerous ' pass from ' Zer Matt ' *' to
Macugnaga. Great stress is laid on the magnificent
appearance of the Matterhorn.'" No inn is mentioned
at Zermatt, one inn (the name of which is not given)
is mentioned at Grindelwald, and it is added that, when
it was full, the Pfarrer received strangers. Chamonix \
had no fewer than three inns, for it was much more
visited than either of the other great Alpine centres. \
The philosophic traveller may amuse himself with "
discovering the reasons — they are not far to seek —
why Zermatt has beaten Chamonix in the race for
popularity among mountaineers, and why Chamonix,
with such a start as it had, has faUen behind so rapidly
and so completely. Ebel does not give illustrations
in the text like his predecessors, but he has a handy
little map far better than that given in the 1804
edition (in my copy of the 1809 edition it has the
engraved date of 1816, and the improved one in the
1818 French edition the date 1829), views of the
Ehone glacier and of the source of the Hinter Ehein
(now printed in brown ink and improved from the

Ebel 47
brightly coloured originals in the 1804 edition), a map
of the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Zurich, and three
mountain panoramas, meant to include all the Swiss
Alps, taken from the hills above Ziirich and Neuchatel.
These latter, though done in outline only, are fairly
accurate and very clear. The frontispiece of vol. i. is
a view of the Alps from the town of Ziirich. Altogether,
one may even now get much valuable information from
Ebel, the scientific portions of his work being specially
elaborate. In fact, Ebel's book is the first systematic
and detailed attempt to supply a handy guide-book
to the natm-al beauties of the more alpine parts of
Switzerland, whfle not neglecting the historical, anti
quarian, and scientific (particularly the geological and
botanical) sides of the subject. He was born in Prussia,
but, through love of the country (which he visited for
the first time in 1790), became a Swiss citizen in 1801,
and settled down in Zurich, enjoying a great reputa
tion as a geologist. He had a hand in assisting Keller
to prepare his great map of Switzerland (1813), and
directed his attention to taking panoramic views from
mountain-tops (Eigi, 1823). He also, with great energy,
coUected subscriptions for the buflding of the first inn
on the Eigi Kulm (1816) . He died in 1830, at the age
of sixty-six. He also pubhshed (1798-1802, 2 vols.,
8vo.) ' Schflderungen der Gebirgsvolker der Schweiz,'
a book which is mainly concerned with Glarus and
Appenzell;*^ Next in point of date after the first edition of
Ebel come four books, about two of which I have no

48 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
information beyond what they themselves furnish.
One is a work entitled 'Nachrichten fiir Eeisende
in der Schweiz,' pubhshed at Bern (8vo., 86 pages)
in 1796. It is believed to be by J. G. Heinzmann,
who is known to have come from Ulm and to have
settled down in Bern as a bookseller and hterary man,
dying at Basel in 1802. Herr B. Studer (p. 544)
mentions only his guide-book to the city and Govern
ment of Bern (1794-96), and does not apparently
know of this other book or map. Herr Peyer (p. 169)
makes a single quotation from the ' Nachrichten.' It
is really a handy and practical guide-book for travel
lers, giving much information in a smaU space. Bern
leads the way, and each canton of, or region connected
with, the Confederation is described successively in
sixty-seven pages. The special guide-books for each
are named, the principal sights and wonders indicated,
as well as the excursions to be made from each centre ;
but the author has evidently expended most labour on
the outline routes from each of these centres to the
neighbouring towns and villages, many minute detafls
being given as to the hours at which dfligences and the
mails start and arrive. Then comes a brief descrip
tion of certain routes, which are not advised except
for those who like rugged mountains and precipices,
to explore which a good head and sound wind are re
quired. These ' first-class expeditions ' are the Furka,
the Grimsel, and the Gemmi, the Great St. Bernard
being less perilous. After a table of distances (in Swiss
mfles) from Basel, Bern, Schaffhausen, and Ziirich,
to various towns, the book concludes with some general

Heinzmann 49
hints for travellers of all professions and all classes.
We are first of all told, in a rather pompous fashion,
that a journey in Switzerland is to be undertaken with
the object of seeing, not towns, but the wfld scenes of
nature, and their simple, unspoiled inhabitants. Special
works for special departments (including Howard's
book on Prisons) are mentioned, as well as newspapers,
inns, coins, and mineral springs. The dearness of
carriages and inns is much dwelt on. No names of
inns are given, for very much the same reason as Hei
degger assigns ; and the sound advice to travellers on
foot is given, not to put up at the most famous but at
the most comfortable inns, where they are likely to be
better lodged and more hospitably entertained. But,
though Heinzmann recommends pedestrian rambles,
he is not very favourable to mountain scrambles, for,
according to him, they are attended with numerous
difficulties and dangers — giddiness, fatigue, over
heating, difficulty in breathing, precipices, and the
risk of losing one's life. In the delightful reflections
on 'mountain journeys,' which fill the last page of
the book, we are strongly dissuaded from attempting
such breakneck (' halsbrechend ') mountains as the
Schreckhorn, the Stockhorn, the Grimsel, and the
Gemmi (a rather oddly assorted lot, according to our
present ideas), for the views from them are not nearly
as fine as from lower points far easier to reach, and
may be entirely concealed by clouds and mists, while
the enjoyment of them is much hindered by piercing
winds, and feelings of sickness brought on by sudden
coohng down after getting heated during the ascent.

50 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Clearly Heinzmann was stiU in that early stage of
the admiration of nature when lakes and hflls were
preferred to the ' belles horreurs ' of crag and glacier.
A large outline map (issued originally in 1795), on
which the distances in Swiss miles are marked, Bern
being taken as the starting point, accompanies the
book. The author tells us that the substance of the
' Nachrichten ' had been translated into French under
the title of ' Avis aux Voyageurs en Suisse.'
The second is a book in the Alpine Club Library.
This is the ' Itineraire General de la Suisse, par H. M.
ingenieur-geographe ' (Luc Sestie, Geneva, 1810). It
is a 12mo. of 141 pages, with a preface of ten pages.
The first sixty-four pages are taken up with a brief
and alphabetically arranged geographical dictionary
of Switzerland (from which all scientific information is
purposely excluded), while the rest is fiUed by 133
itineraries (containing only the names of post stations
and of the distance of each from the other) within
the country and Savoy, besides a few enthely in
France or Lombardy, and also the main roads leading
into Switzerland from all sides. Among the passes
thus indicated we find the Grimsel, the Furka, the
Gemmi, the Col de Balme, the Tete Noire, the Mont
Cenis, the Simplon, the St. Gotthard, the Great St.
Bernard, the Spliigen, the Albula, the Bernina, the
Finstermunz, &c. An asterisk affixed to a name in
any itinerary means that a full description wiU be
found in the earlier part of the book. Accompanying
this book is Heinzmann 's map of considerable size
(mounted on a guard), with certain additions, extending

Minor Guide-Books 51
from Mulhouse to Como, and from Besan9on to Coire.
On it axe marked the routes described in the text.
The boundaries of the cantons are shown by coloured
lines, whfle the mountains of the Bernese Oberland
and of the St. Gotthard district are represented in far
greater detafl than in the 1795 issue of the map
noticed above. The ranges south of the Ehone valley
are stiU very sketchy, and Mont Blanc is a blank,
though the neighbouring range of the Buet is fairly
figured. I should be very glad to learn who ' H. M.'
was, as up to the present I have been quite unable to
ascertain for certain the authorship of this very handy
pocket guide-book. Can he have been Henri Mallet
(known as MaUet-Prevost, to distinguish him from
his brother), an ingenieur (1727-1811), who published
maps of Geneva (1776) and Vaud (1781), and a little
book caUed ' Manuel Metrologique ' (1802) ? I take
these details from Studer (pp. 259, 260, 486, 487),
who does not, however, allude to the 1810 book.
The third book is the 1829 ' Wegweiser, neuer und
voUstandiger, durch die ganze schweizerische Eids-
genossenschaft und die benachbarten Lander ' (8vo.
Sauerlander, Aarau), the third edition of a 1784 book
mentioned above. The advertisement at the end of
the German edition of the ' Itineraire du Voyage a
Chamouny ' (1829), p. 197, explains that this little
book gave the distances from one place to another,
the by-ways or short cuts, names of inns, coins, boat
fares, names of guides, &c. — in fact, all sorts of
practical information.
The fourth is mentioned by J. E. Wyss (' Voyage
E 2

52 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
dans I'Oberland Bernois,' i. 74 ; German edition, p.
76). It was entitled 'Le Voyageur en Suisse ou.
Manuel instructif et portatif a I'usage des voyageurs
qui se proposent de parcourir ce pays,' and had recently
(i.e. about 1816 or 1817) appeared at Geneva, though
the printing had been begun as long ago as 1811.
The scheme of the book was that of Heidegger's
guide-book — general introduction, itineraries, and
table of distances, alphabetical list of to'wns, &c., and
it contained 754 large 8vo. pages. The Preface was
signed ' F. B.' I have been quite unable to identify
this work, which is certainly distinct from the real or
pirated editions of Ebel and Eichard.

The great success of Ebel soon brought about
translations, adaptations, and imitations. The French
version (for such it practically was, as it has smaU
claims to originality) was a duodecimo entitled ' Guide
du Voyageur en Suisse, par Eichard, ingenieur-topo-
graphe.' I am much indebted to Mr. Marett for per
mitting me to examine the 1824 edition of this book
(a copy of which I have since purchased), which on the
face ai it seems to be the first edition — it is, at any rate,
the earliest I have heard of.*^ I have a copy of the
1830-81 edition, entitled ' Manuel du Voyageur en
Suisse.' Mr. Marett possesses one of the 1840, and I
myself own another of the 1843 edition of the same
work, the latter two bearing the double title, ' Le Nouvel
Ebel ' and ' Manuel du Voyageur en Suisse.' The 1824
book starts with fifty pages of itineraries bodfly taken

Richard 53
— this is openly acknowledged — from the French Ebel
of 1818. The main part of the book fiUs 718 pages
(664 in the 1830, 575' m the 1848 edition). Each
canton is described separately in a section by itself,
every section being preceded by a few pages of prac
tical hints as to coinage, books to consult, roads, inns,
principal objects of interest, &c. I have not been
able to find out the principle on which the cantons
are arranged. Geneva leads the way, followed by
Vaud and A^'alais, whfle Aargau, Schaffhausen, Lucerne,
and Zug bring up the rear. In the 1840 and 1843
editions, the order in which the cantons are arranged
differs shghtly from the 1824 scheme. Geneva again
leads the way, but Bale, Soleure, and Neuchatel are
the last three in order. The section relating to the
Bernese Oberland is textuaUy reproduced (with some
omissions) from J. E. Wyss's 'Voyage dans I'Oberland
Bernois' (1817), ''and thatfor the Lake of Geneva from
Manget — both these loans being acknowledged on the
title-page. As usual then, manners and customs are
treated in greater detail than is ordinary in current
guide-books. Neither copy of the 1824 edition has a
map, nor any indication of ever having had one ; whfle
the 1830, 1840, and 1848 editions have Keller's map
of Switzerland, as well as Wyss's small map of the
Oberland, the latter two having besides another smaU
one of Chamonix. On the other hand, the 1824 book
has eight drawings printed in brown ink, which re-
a.ppear, amidst many new ones, in the 1843 edition,
but this time printed in black ink.
The 1830 edition differs in many respects from

54 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
that of 1824 and those of 1840 and 1843, probably
representing an intermediate stage. The name of
Eichard only appears on the title-page in a statement
that he has contributed many notes, though he signs
the ' Observations ' on pages 32-88 ; the words ' Par
M. L. G. Ebel ' occupying the place of honour. It
has the eight engravings in brown ink, and is pub
lished by the right man, Audin. Keller's map and
an outline one of the Oberland are promised on the
title-page, but are unluckfly missing in my copy.
The 66 pages of introductory matter are entirely
different from the same section in any of the other
editions of Eichard. They are made up of a ' Coup-
d'oeil sur la Suisse ' (topographical, historical, and
political), and an essay on travelling in Switzerland,
with a few suggestions as to routes — aU taken from
Glutz-Blotzheim's 1818 edition of Heidegger and
Ebel in one volume. Then comes a table of heights
of waterfalls, lakes, passes, peaks, and to'wns, taken
from Wyss, two pages of ' Observations ' by Eichard,
and an elaborate account of distances from one place
to another in Switzerland (fiUing 32 pages) from Glutz-
Blotzheim. This latter item is divided into 205 out
line routes, starting from a number of principal towns
(including Aosta) arranged in alphabetical order, and
has a general resemblance to the second part of Hei
degger's guide-book, noticed above. The main part of
the book is taken up by a topographical dictionary,
arranged, not like the 1824, 1840 and 1843 editions
according to cantons, but alphabetically, like Ebel's,
with which it verbally corresponds in almost every case,

Richard 5 5
allowing for a few abridgments, particularly in the
case of all the botanical and geological information.
There is a curious note as to the regulations of the
Chamonix guides, signed ' G. Downes,' while under the
head 'Mont Blanc ' there is a list (taken from Eeichard,
not Eichard) of the ascents of Mont Blanc down to
Mr. Clissold's in 1822. This book has puzzled me a
good deal, for it differs so much from all the other
editions of Eichard, whfle yet having in some points a
very close connection with them. It cannot be the
pirated book mentioned in note 52, for, hke the 1824
book, it is published by Audin, whose successor (as we
learn from the 1840 and 1848 editions) was Maison ;
nor can it be merely a French version of Ebel, for the
iUustrations agree with Eichard's and not with Ebel's.
The only satisfactory theory that I can form concerning
it is that Eichard, keeping his old fllustrations, adopted
Ebel's arrangement, taking the introduction from Glutz-
Blotzheim's book of 1818, and possibly deriving hints
for improving the text from the 1830 Ebel. Dissatis
fied with this scheme, he then, in 1840, reverted to his
original plan. In any case the question is mainly one
of bibhographical interest, for in all four editions the
sections about the Visp valleys and Chamonix are taken
from Ebel, and that on the Oberland from Wyss.
The editions of 1840 and 1843 drop Ebel's ' Itme-
raries,' but the 1848 one adopts his vocabularies
of Swiss-German and Swiss-French, and is printed in
double columns. In both cases the guide to Switzer
land is followed by a short guide to the Tyrol, and is
well furnished with views and maps, great stress being

56 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
laid on the engraved copy of a reproduction of Keller's
map of Switzerland (first issued in 1813, revised in
1833, and long the best general map of Switzerland in
existence). Many persons are thanked for contribu
ting to the work, and the preface speaks of earlier
volumes in the same series, dealing with France and
Italy, stating also that their great success had led to
some publishers placing the name on ' de miserables
compilations que nous desavouons hautement,' the
genuine ones being issued only by M. Maison ' suc-
cesseur de M. Audin,' 29 Quai des Augustins, Paris.
On the second title-page of my copy of the 1843 edition
we read, ' Nouvelle edition, revue, coordonnee, mise
en ordre et augmentee de 300 articles nouveaux,' whfle
the first (embellished with representations of Swiss
costumes — largely hats and bodices) bears the inscrip
tion ' Eevue d'apres Murray.' Now this last inscription
raises a most important question in the development
of guide-books. ' Murray,' as we shall see presently,
differs from all earlier Swiss guide-books in arranging
his information according to the well-known system
of routes. The prefaces to the 1840 and 1843 ' Ei-
chards ' state that the editor has deliberately rejected
the alphabetical scheme of arrangement which was
maintained by Ebel in his editions, and goes on to say
' Le Manuel dont nous publions une nouvelle edition
a ete con9u sur un plan tout different. On a imagine
des STATIONS qu'on a choisies parmi celles qui sont le
plus familieres aux touristes, et de ces stations on a
conduit le voyageur, dans diverses excursions, aux
sites qu'il doit visiter de predilection.' As a matter

The Engush 'Ebel' 57
of fact, the 1824 arrangement by cantons is still pre
served, whfle a twenty-third chapter (No. 3 in the
series) is devoted to ' Promenades a Chamouni.
Within each canton, however, certain places are now
taken as ' centres d'excursions,' and everything is
described in its relation to them — that is, more or less,
the system of ' routes.' This new arrangement marks
a distinct advance on that of Ebel, and the question I
should like to have solved is this : How far is Eichard
indebted to Murray for the idea ? If an edition of
Eichard, arranged on this plan, exists previous to
1838 (the date of the editio princeps of Murray) , he is
undoubtedly entitled to the credit of having worked
out the idea which has been adopted by all succeeding
guide-book makers ; but I do not think this is very likely.
The prefaces of the 1840 and 1843 editions are un
dated, but some expressions in them point to an
earher date, though later than 1830 — the year of
Ebel's death. I have been able to learn nothing of
the history of ' Eichard ' between 1830 and 1840 (a
copy of the 1835 edition which I saw in a bookseller's
catalogue having been imluckily bought before I
sent for it), and I should be greatly obliged for a sight
of an intervening edition should any of my readers be
lucky enough to possess one.'*
There was also an English edition of Ebel pub
hshed before 1818, to meet the demands of the growing
number of Enghsh tourists.
Englishmen were few and far between among the
early travellers in Switzerland, though in 1669, 1673,

S8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and 1709, the ' Philosophical Transactions' of the Eoyal
Society contain curious accounts of glaciers," and we
owe excellent books on the country to Bishop Burnet
(1686) and Archdeacon Coxe (1779). Towards the
end of the eighteenth century, however, they were
seized with the 'Wanderlust,' which was becoming
fashionable. An interesting proof of this is afforded
by Gibbon's Autobiography. Speaking of his youthful
Swiss round in the autumn of 1755, he adds : ' The
fashion of climbing the mountains and reviewing the
Glaciers had not yet been introduced by foreign tra
vellers who seek the sublime beauties of nature.' Again,
speaking of his long residence at Lausanne (1783-
98), he says, 'I shall add, as a misfortune rather
than a merit, that the situation and beauty of the
Pays de Vaud, the long habits of the Enghsh, the me
dical reputation of Dr. Tissot, and the fashion of view
ing the mountains and Glaciers, have opened us on aU
sides to the incursions of foreigners.' '" On July 25,
1775, an English mineralogist, Mr. Grevflle, to the
amazement of the natives, had his light caleche driven
over the bridle-path of the St. Gotthard Pass. De
Saussure happened to be on the pass that very day,
and on his return from the ascent of a little peak (just
west of and rather lower than the Fibbia) which he
caUs ' le Fieudo ' or ' cime de Fieut,' met Mr. Grevflle
at the little hospice of the Capuchins and spent the
evening with him. His account of Mr. Grevflle's ad
venture is worth quoting : ' II avoit reussi a faire
traverser le St. Gothard a un phaeton leger sans le
demonter : cette fantaisie lui couta fort cher (18 louis)

From England to Switzerland 59
a cause du nombre d'hommes qu'fl falloit dans les
pontes rapides, mais la voiture n'essuya aucun acci
dent, et fl presenta un spectacle bien nouveau aux
habitants de ces hautes vallees.' ''
The feat was repeated in 1793 by another Enghsh
man, while in 1798 some other Enghsh traveUers had
their chaises carried across the Great St. Bernard, ac-
cordmg to the 1804 Ebel (u. 125-26). A little later
Swiss tours must have become quite a common amuse
ment of others besides rich ' milords,' to judge from
the opening paragraph (page xiii.) of Mr. Wall's English
version of Ebel (1818), which, with the omission of
Mr. Eecordon's name and address, is reproduced in
the 1835 edition. It is as follows : ' Travellers wish
ing to proceed direct to Switzerland may hear of
Mr. Emery, the agent, at Mr. Eecordon's, Cockspur-
street, Charing-cross ; or the White Bear, Piccadilly.
The journey is performed in sixteen days, allowing
two at Paris, and sleeping every night at some town.
The proprietors furnish lodgings and provision. The
carriage is roomy and convenient — the passengers
are hmited to six. One cwt. of luggage is allowed to
each, and the charge is only twenty guineas English.' "
These times and prices do not seem excessive when we
bear in mind that at the present time, though one can
go by direct route from London to Basel in nineteen
hours and a quarter, and to Bern in twenty-two hours,
one must pay about five or five and a half guineas
first-class fare for being so transported, while provi
sions are not included, and only fifty-six pounds of
luggage are aflowed free. Specially worthy of mention

6o Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
is the Swiss tour made in the summer of 1800 by an
English party, a summary of which has been printed
in the ' Alpine Journal ' (vii. 481-6). It included a
visit to Chamonix, where the regular excursions, includ
ing those to the Mer de Glace and the Col de Balme, were
made, passages ofthe Tete None and Great St. Bernard
(three months after Napoleon), a narrow escape from
murder by French soldiers in the Val d'Aosta, as well
as the first English traverse of the St. Theodule and
visit to Zermatt, whence they went down the vaUey to
Visp, visited Leuk, and returned to Geneva by way of
Martigny and the lake. This trip is particularly re
markable because it was made after the great winter
campaign in Switzerland and while the war was stfll
raging. It seems, however, to have been a very excep
tional case.
The great rush of English tourists came when the |
Continent was reopened after the battle of Waterloo. !
Both Shelley and^ Byron spent the summer of 1816 on ,
the shores of the lake of Geneva. Their famous sail
round the lake (June 23 to July 1) is described in a
letter of Byron to Mr. Murray dated June 27, and in
one of Shelley to Peacock dated July 12. Shelley and
his party made an excursion to Chamonix (July 20-26),
which he describes in another long letter to Peacock.
On his first sight of Mont Blanc, he exclaims, 'I never
knew — I never imagined — what mountains were be
fore.' Coleridge had published his celebrated 'Hymn
before Sunrise in the Vale of Chamouni ' as long ago
as 1802 in the ' Morning Post ' of September 11 (the
text being much altered before its republication in

Shelley and Byron 6i
1834), though De Quincey (' Works,' ii. 44) declared
that it was plagiarised from a poem by Frederika Brun.
It was on July 23 (not June 23 as his editors obsti
nately maintain) that after a visit to the Source de
I'Arveron and the glacier des Bossons Shelley wrote his
great poem on Mont Blanc, of which he says in the
preface to the ' History of a Six Weeks' Tour ' (1817)
that ' it was composed under the immediate impression
of the deep and powerful feelings excited by the objects
which it attempts to describe ; and as an undisci
plined overflo'wing of the soul, rests its claim to
approbation on an attempt to imitate the untameable
wfldness and inaccessible solemnity from which those
feehngs sprang.' SheUey's experiences of Chamonix
were however not all rose-coloured. He says of his
guide Ducree (? Ducroz) that he was ' the only tolerable
person I have seen in this country ' ; and immediately
after adds that ' the proprietor ' (of the Cabinet of
Natural History) ' is the very vflest specimen of that
vfle species of quack that, together with the whole
army of aubergistes and guides, and indeed the whole
mass of the population, subsist on the weakness and
credulity of travellers, as leeches subsist on the sick.'
Yet the spell of the mountains (despite temporary
vexations) had enthralled Shelley, as is shown by
many touches in ' Prometheus Unbound ' (written
1818-19), particularly in Asia's marveUous speech
(act ii., scene 3).
It was a little later (September 18-25) in the same
year that Byron took his famous journey over the
Col de Jaman and through the Simmenthal to Thun,

62 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
whence he visited the Staubbach and made the
regular Oberland round by the Wengern Alp and
Great Scheidegg to Brienz and so back to Thun
again. Certain epithets which he applied in his
Journal to the wonderful sights which met his eyes
have been repeated tiU they are threadbare. A more
important result of his stay in Switzerland (May to
October 1816) was the composition of three of his
noblest poems — ' The Prisoner of Chillon ' (June 28),
the third Canto of ' Chflde Harold ' (finished July 4,
and published in a separate volume in August), and
' Manfred ' (imagined on the Wengern Alp, and
finished in April 1817). Byron, like his friend
Shelley, preferred Swiss scenery to the Swiss people,
for in a letter to Moore (dated from Eavenna, Sep
tember 19, 1821) he says, in order to justify himself
for choosing Pisa rather than Switzerland as his
summer residence : ' Switzerland is a curst selfish,
swinish country of brutes, placed in the most romantic
region of the world. I never could bear the inhabi
tants, and still less their English visitors ; for which
reason, after writing for some information about
houses, upon hearing that there was a colony of
English all over the cantons of Geneva &c., I imme
diately gave up the thought, and persuaded the
Gambas to do the same.'
Byron had been to Chamonix in the August of
this same year (compare letters of July 29 and Sep
tember 80 to Mr. Murray, and those of September 29,
1816, and April 4, 1817, to Mr. Eogers), possibly
after hearing from Shelley what wonderful things

The English in Switzerland 63
were to be seen there. He thought, however, that the
Oberland was finer than Chamonix. So on Septem
ber 29, ' Chamouni and that which it inherits, we saw
a month ago : but though Mont Blanc is higher, it is
not equal in wildness to the Jungfrau, the Eighers,''
the Shreckhorn, and the Eose [Eosenlaui] Glaciers ' ;
on September 30, ' I have lately been over all the
Bernese Alps and their lakes. I think many of the
scenes (some of which were not those usually fre
quented by the English) finer than Chamouni, which
I visited some time before ' ; and on April 4, 1817, ' I
do not think so very much of Chamouni (except the
source of the Arveron, to which we went up to the
teeth of the ice, so as to look into and touch the
cavity, against the warnings of the guides, only one
of whom would go with us so close) as of the Jung
frau, and the Pissevache, and Simplon, which are
quite out of all mortal competition.'
Enghsh travellers, while shuddering at the deeds
(reported or real) of Byron and Shelley, nevertheless
followed their example in one particular, and it became
the ' right thing ' to make a pedestrian tour in Swit
zerland, which meant walking along high roads, or
over the lower passes, not crossing the higher passes
or ascending peaks. One consequence of this in
creased number of English travellers was the publica
tion of Swiss guide-books in English.
Thus, besides Eichard's French recension of Ebel,
there was also an English one of what was the Swiss
guide-book of the early part of this century. The
Enghsh Ebel is a 16mo. volume of xxvin — 548

€4 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
pages, entitled ' The TraveUer's Guide through
Switzerland. By M. J. G. Ebel. A new edition,
arranged and improved by Daniel Wall, formerly Cor
responding Member of the Academie d'Arras, and of
the Musee de Paris. With a Complete Atlas. London:
Printed for Samuel Leigh, 18 Strand, 1818,' which
was priced at sixteen shillings.^" I have examined
the copy in the Alpine Club Library, which has also
the atlas containing Keller's map of Switzerland (first
issued in 1818) in six sheets, and five plates, which
are identical with those given by Ebel, including that
of the ' crampons,' a word Englished as ' Cramp Irons.'
Mr. WaU' s plates have been re-engraved for his edition
by Sidney Hall, and oddly enough, like those in the
1818 French Ebel, retain the German names for each
object indicated. Mr. Wall, however, gives us, as a
frontispiece, a marvellous coloured view of Geneva (with
the Saleve and the lake), of which one can only say
that no doubt it represented the culminating point of
the art of 1818 — more no one can maintain. Mr.
Wall's map is of course very much better than Ebel's,
and he adds, at the close of the little volume contain
ing the Atlas, almost the whole of Ebel's German,
French, and Eomansch vocabulary, substituting
English for the Swiss-German equivalents.
In many ways this is an interesting work, and it
is historically important, since, apart from the more
general works of Stanyan, Burnet, and Coxe, it seems
to be the first attempt to write a guide for English
visitors to Switzerland. Mr. Wall does not seem,
from his preface, to have a very high opinion of Ebel's

The English 'Ebel' 65
book, for though he says that it ' is deemed the best
hitherto published,' he at once goes on to say that
' his volume is not only too tedious and voluminous for
the perusal even of stationary readers, but is altogether
unfit for cursory travellers through Switzerland. The
tourist would feel greatly disappointed to meet with
merely a Directory, be it ever so complete, when he
stood in need of a Guide.' That this rather harsh
judgment is the opinion of a rival is shown by the very
next sentence : ' The present work is Ebel's Switzer
land in miniature. But, although seen in a convex
glass, the resemblance is not less perfect ; nay, those
imperfections are not discernible in it, which the
magnifying concave mirror renders so conspicuous.'
Mr. WaU clearly has a good opinion of his own work,
though he has to allow that he owes much to Ebel
and others, adding, he tells us, much from his own
personal observations. A close examination of the
book shows that the amount of original matter is but
shght, Ebel being practically the sole authority for
almost every statement, though his text has been much
abbreviated, and the matter arranged in a somewhat
different way. The practical hints in Part I. (92
pages) are all taken straight from Ebel, and are
followed by several of his more general articles on the
Alps, Glaciers, Avalanches, the Simplon, Pilatus, the
Eigi, Monte Eosa district, and Gurnigel. In Part II.
(pp, 98-220) the Itineraries and elaborate descriptions
(except that of the Frontispiece) are simply translated
from Ebel. Mr. Wall entitles Part III. (pp. 221-414)
' The Traveller's Guide through Switzerland,' and

66 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
says of it, ' The whole of the Third Part is new, and,
in this respect, differs from Ebel's work.' This boast
is only justified so far as regards the arrangement of
the matter, which is taken (with abbreviations)
straight from Ebel's alphabetical dictionary of places.
It is arranged so as to form a continuous tour, the
traveller being supposed to start from Geneva, to visit
the lake, and then to go to Neuchatel, Soleure, Basle,
FaUs of the Ehine, Constance, St. GaU, Glarus, Zurich,
Baden, Berne, Fribourg, Simmenthal, Bernese Ober
land, the Forest Cantons, the St. Gotthard, Tessin, the
Grisons, the Oberalp Pass, the Furka, the Grimsel,
the Valais, the Great St. Bernard, Val de Bagnes, and
Chamonix, thus working back to Geneva. The scheme
is ingenious, and far more interesting than an alpha
betically arranged list. The rest of the book (pp.
415-548) is taken up by a topographical dictionary
in alphabetical order, greatly abridged from Ebel,
and minus some of the longer articles transferred to
Part I. or to Part III. Thus we find that the long
article in Ebel on the Visp Valleys is replaced by a
few lines of general description, and Zermatt only gets
a passing mention under the heading ' Matterthal.
The Zermatt valley, however, is thus described (p. 884)
under its ancient name : —
' A place which may perhaps interest the tourist is
The Valley op Praboegne, which communicates with
that of St. Nicholas. It is bounded by enormous
glaciers, which descend to the bottom of the valley.
The vfllage of Praborgne is very lofty : it overlooks
these glaciers from an immense height. Its climate

Zermatt and the Oberland 67
is nearly as warm as that of Italy ; even plants of
the warm countries are gathered at a considerable
height above the glaciers, which is a rare occurrence
in Switzerland; they are often gathered below the
glaciers, but seldom above.' This bit is, as far as I
can ascertain, one of the purple patches sewn by Mr.
Wall on the common homespun of Ebel, and is the
earliest published mention in English of Zermatt that
I have come across (for the narrative of the 1800 Eng
lish party alluded to above was not published till 1876) .
Elsewhere (p. 463) he describes the Matterhorn
(Cervin or Sylvio) as ' the most slender and sharp-
pointed needle in the chain of the Alps.' We are told
of Grindelwald that the vfllage is ' very pretty '
(p. 821), and that it 'is the most convenient and
least dangerous place a tourist can select to observe
the glaciers ' (p. 444), for (p. 321), ' as they are easy
of access, and exhibit a finer specimen of nature, both
in its cultivated and savage state, than any of the
others, they are more celebrated than any in Switzer
land, though by no means the most beautiful or the
most considerable : but the most interesting objects
are not always admired or sought after in proportion
to their merits ; as they are beyond the reach of the
generality of mankind, they are consequently too often
depreciated by them.' ^' The Lauterbrunnen valley
is, we are told (p. 455), ' one of the most famous and
most frequented in Switzerland. . . . Great celebrity
is attached to the cascade of Staubbach.' The follow
ing aUusion to the Tschingel Pass is interesting
(pp. 312-13) : ' Persons who have sufficient courage ¦E 2

68 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
to cross the most difficult parts of the Alps may take a
passage which will conduct them direct from Kander-
stoeg to Lauterbrounn, and which is said to have been
discovered by M. Bourrit, of Geneva.' This is briefer,
but scarcely less emphatic, than the original in Ebel
(1811 edition, iii. 259). ' II y a une vingtaine d'annees
que quelques Suisses allerent en 9 heures depuis
le pied du glacier de la Kander jusqu'aux premieres
cabanes de Lauterbrounn, non sans essuyer les plus
grandes fatigues et s'exposer aux plus affreux dangers.
Quiconque voudroit entreprendre ce trajet perflleux,
partout herisse de glaciers et de rocs, am'oit besoin a
cet effet d'excellens guides, d'un temps sur, d'une in-
trepidite a toute epreuve et d'une grande habitude des
montagnes et des glaciers.' *^ Even the last edition
of Ebel (1848) confines itself to the excursion from
Kandersteg to the Kander glacier, and does not men
tion the pass. Yet in 1864 Mr. BaU (' Central Alps,'
p. 100) calls the passage of the Tschingel ' a first exer
cise — a,po7is asinontm in an inoffensive sense — for those
who aspire to more intimate acquaintance with the high
Alps than can be gained by foUowing the habitual track
of tourists ' ! Of the valley of Chamonix Mr. Wall tells
us (pp. 408, 425) that ' it is remote from aU high
roads, isolated and as it were separated from the
whole world,' and that ' this valley, so singularly in
teresting,' was discovered by Pococke and Windham in
1741. He adds (p. 408) that the guides ' are extremely
attentive. The guides of this place are to be pre
ferred to any others in Switzerland.' We are told
(p. 410) that ' no one ought to expose himself to the

Expenses of a Swiss Tour 6g
dangers, fatigue, and considerable expense, which an
excursion to Mont-Blanc renders indispensable, allured
by the deceitful expectation of enjoying prospects of
extraordinary magnificence.' We have the inevitable
references to Paccard, Jacques Balmat, and De
Saussure, but later ascents are not even mentioned,
The climb itself is described in these words (p. 411) :
' The ascent is extremely difficult, and even dangerous,
owing to the continual faUs of snow (avalanches) . The
distance from the plains of Chamouny is only six
mfles and a half in a straight line ; but, owing to the
bad roads, the windings, and the great perpendicular
height, the summit cannot be gained in less than
eighteen hours.'
The remarks in Ebel (endorsed and copied by Mr.
WaU) as to the expenses of a sojourn in Switzerland
are interesting. Geneva is reckoned a very dear
place, yet monthly expenses need not amount even
there to more than 94 francs present value (4 louis
d'or) a head. The daily expenses of a traveller when
staying in one place are reckoned (including a valet
de place) at 6 florins (14 francs) a day : if staying
in the country five or six months, and travelling about,
at double that amount ; but if making a rapid tour of
a few weeks only, treble that amount is required per
diem. A pedestrian should not spend more than
about 12 francs (half a louis d'or) a day, including all
the expenses of a guide ; if the guide is paid about 6
francs (a crown) a day, he is to feed himself. The best
way to avoid imposition in matters relating to the
inn expenses of a guide (p. 28), ' is to have your guide

70 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
sit down at your same table, provided you can bespeak
your dinner, and to bear the expense yourself of his
board, lodging, and washing.' (This advice is given
both by Ebel and Mr. Wall.) In reading the foUow
ing estimate of expenses ¦«e must bear in mind that
the time advised for a tour in Switzerland is not less
than twelve months, though ' four months might be
made sufficient merely to view what Nature has created
remarkable in Switzerland, if the tourist could judi
ciously adjust his route.' Both Ebel and his Enghsh
editor agree in this estimate. 'Any one wiUing to
travel on foot all over Switzerland, and to board
during the winter with some private family, may rest
assured that 110 or 120 Louis [2,588 to 2,828^ francs],
at most, will carry him over for a twelvemonth. "V^Tio-
ever could summon fortitude enough to travel on foot
and carry his own luggage, without hning a guide for
that purpose, would not spend above two florins
(rather under five francs) a day upon an average.
Every young man in the bloom of health and of life
must be capable of travelling over distant climes with
his knapsack at his back, and a stick in his hand.' ^'
In the ' Hints to Travellers ' Mr. WaU gives several
itineraries from London to Switzerland, via Paris and
Bale, or Brussels and the Ehine. The sea was crossed
from Brighton to Dieppe (7 to 40 hours), from Margate
to Ostend, from Dover to Calais (3 to 12 hours), from
Eye to Boulogne, from Portsmouth to Havre, or from
Harwich to Helvoetsluys. Altogether Mr. Wall's
edition of 'Ebel' is most interesting to English visitors
to Switzerland in these days, for it shows them what

The English ' Ebel ' Re vised 7 1
travelling in Switzerland was like only seventy years
ago, when it was far slower and more expensive than
at present, and less concerned with mountains than
with towns, lakes, and hflls. I should imagine that
Mr. Wall had (as was usual at that time) but a scanty
knowledge of German, as the German names are
often shockingly spelt and mutilated, though they are
correct even in the French version of ' Ebel.' From
this habit of Mr. Wall, and other small matters which
I have observed during a tolerably careful examination
of the book, I should conclude that in compiling his
book he used a French translation of ' Ebel ' — either
the second (1810-11) or the third (1818) edition.
Though the book is more of a translation and adapta
tion than Mr. Wall allows in his preface, it is none
the less of great historical importance as the first
Enghsh guide-book proper to Switzerland.
The Alpine Club library possesses the third edition
of the same book, entitled ' The Traveller's Guide
through Switzerland,' issued by M.A. Leigh and Son,
421 Strand, as well as by Baldwin and Cradock, Pater
noster Eow, and bearing the imprint 1835. It is a
16mo. of xxxvi-560 pages, and does not bear Mr.
Wall's name. There is an entirely new preface, and
a remarkable ' Advertisement to the Third Edition,'
from which we extract the concluding sentences : ' In
tampering with the venerable features of our learned
original ' (i.e. Ebel), ' and in substituting new ones,
we trust we have allowed the harmony of the general
character to remain undisturbed. We have endea
voured to bestow upon it the literary elixir which

72 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
insures youth without forfeiting that judgment and
veracity which are supposed to appertain especially to
old age ; and relying on that accustomed support we
are so proud to acknowledge, we fervently solicit a
kind reception for an old friend with a new face.'
This flight really means that the text has been revised
according to the latest information supplied by tra
vellers or by the personal experience of the editor.
In substance the book is practically unchanged. From
the ' Hints to TraveUers ' we learn that M. Emery (who
thus appears to have been a foreigner) or his agent
was to be heard of at the White Bear, near the
Circus, Piccadflly, and was prepared to take traveUers
to Switzerland in the same fashion . and on the same
terms as in 1818 (though the growth of the dihgence
system in Switzerland is pointed out), save that twenty
pounds are substituted for as many guineas. Much
information is given as to Herries, Farquhar & Co.'s
circular exchange notes, and as to passports, with a
table of dates of the main events in Swiss history and
some statistics as to the actual condition of the country.
The four main divisions of the 1818 book are main
tained. In Part i. (pp. 1-65) there is a section
(transferred from Part ii. of the 1818 book) on manners,
customs, commerce, agriculture, &c., while of the
special articles, those on the Alps, Glaciers, and Ava
lanches are alone retained in their old place ; the
others are transferred to Part iii. The estimates for
expenses are unchanged save that in one case 14
francs has gone down to 12 francs ; the cost for neces
saries alone in any part of Switzerland is still reckoned

The English 'Ebel' Revised 73
at four guineas a month in a private family, or by
special agreement with an innkeeper. Part ii. (pp.
66-241) has been much enlarged by the addition of
an elaborate descriptive Itinerary (pp. 67-183), con
taining 402 outline routes (giving the distances in
leagues between the post stations), starting from the
principal places in the Confederation. This is the
most important novelty in the book, and from some
remarks of the editor, asking for a little indulgence,
would appear to be more or less original. The rest of
Part ii. is unchanged. Save that the description of
the plates is wanting, being probably transferred to
the separate volume containing the plates themselves,
which is missing in the copy of the 1885 book in the
Alpine Club library (though probably identical with
that of 1818), Parts in. (pp. 242-432) and iv. (pp.
483-560) are as in 1818, but the matter has been
thoroughly revised, and the spelling of German proper
names is infinitely more correct than in 1818. Save
the omission of the phrases taken from pp. 408 and
444, the quotations I made above from the 1818
edition reappear in the 1885 one. There is an inter
esting passage on the history of the monastery at
Chamonix, no doubt taken from Markham Sherwill's
sketch (1832) mentioned on the same page, and Mr.
Auldjo's ascent of Mont Blanc (1827) is the most
recent recorded, though Mr. Wilbraham was up in
1880 and Dr. Martin Barry and Count Henri de TiUy
successively in 1884. Finally, Ebel's view of Zurich
and the lake is substituted for the marvellous one of
Geneva which adorned Mr. Wall's. edition. The 1818

74 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and 1835 books are thus the second and third editions
of a work the date of the first publication of which is
unknown to me, though it would be most interesting
to learn it.
The only other early guide-book to Switzerland in
English that I have come across is that by Mrs.
Mariana Starke, a lady who, I am told, was some
times called the ' Countess of Sorrento,' because she
praised that place so much. The first edition men
tioned by Lowndes is that of 1820, which bears the title
of ' Travels on the Continent, for the use of TraveUers '
(post 8vo.). The fifth edition (of which Mr. Tuckett
possesses a copy), thoroughly revised and greatly en-
enlarged, came out in 1824 (post 8vo.) under the title
cited below, and the eighth (apparently the final one) in
1833. I possess a copy of the seventh edition (1829),
which is entitled ' Information and Dhections for
Travellers on the Continent,' published by John
Murray. Both the later editions contain, besides some
practical hints as to horses, prices, &c., only half a
dozen pages relating to Switzerland, which describe
the routes over the St. Bernardino, St. Gotthard, and
Great St. Bernard. It is really the eighth (1832 or
1833) edition of this work that is mentioned, with a
shortened title, by Mr. Marett in his very interesting
sketch of Swiss travel in the thirties ('Alpine Journal,'
xi. 476). But as Ebel in Switzerland had absorbed all pre- ,
vious French and German guide-books into his book,
so did Murray in England. In the year 1888 — ^just '
over fifty years ago — the editio princeps of Murray's

Murray's Swiss Handbook 75
' Handbook for TraveUers in Switzerland and the Alps
of Savoy and Piedmont ' was given to the world as
one of Murray's series of Handbooks for other parts
of the Contment. The editor acknowledged his obliga
tions to Ebel, aiming at superseding him by the greater
accuracy and freshness of his information." The
book is in octavo and has sixty pages of preliminary
matter, 867 more conaprising the text and index, while
there is a smaller index route map (printed on linen)
of Switzerland and the districts beyond it as far south
as the Mediterranean.^' There is also a panorama
of the Alps from Berne. (The Brevent panorama
appears first in 1842, and that from the Eiffelberg in
1854.) The text is arranged in 137 routes (pretty
certainly the first time this plan was ever thoroughly
carried out, though, of course, Heidegger in 1787, and
the ' Guide du Voyageur ' in its 1790 and 1794 editions,
had employed it to a limited extent), and the general
scheme is that still retained, but the cloth binding of
my copy (an 1840 reissue, with a sheet of corrections,
of the first edition) is black, the familiar red cover not
appearing till the edition of 1842 ; in both cases the
arms of the twenty-two cantons are stamped in gold
on the back cover. I have been unable to find in the
editions of 1838, 1842, or 1846 the weU-known passage
about the probable madness of the travellers who wish
to ascend Mont Blanc, though the description of the
expedition actually given is certainly highly coloured.
The passage in question certainly appears for the first
time in the fourth edition (1851), is repeated in the
fifth (1852), sixth (1854), and seventh (1856) editions,

76 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and disappears for good, probably owing to the advent
of a new editor, in the eighth (1858). Here is the
text : ' It is a somewhat remarkable fact that a
large proportion of those who have made this ascent
have been persons of unsound mind.' In my copy of
the 1851 edition (which has been revised by one
' J. D. G.' for the next edition) these words are care
fully kept in, though the paragraph in which they
occur is considerably altered. ' Murray's Handbook '
soon attained great popularity among the ever-increas
ing throng of English visitors to Switzerland, and an
Englishman came to be recognised as much by the
possession of the ' red book ' as by his inabflity, half
contempt, half shyness, to speak the language of the
country. An amusing advertisement, quoted by Herr
Peyer (p. 244), says : ' From St. Petersburgh to SeviUe,
from Ostend to Constantinople, there is not an inn
keeper who does not turn pale at the name of Murray.'
A few years after the birth of Murray's Swiss
guide-book came that of his great rival Badeker (1844).
The struggle between the two books, especiaUy after
Badeker was translated into English (1859), was long
and severe, and twenty years ago there were far more
' Murrays ' than ' Badekers ' to be seen in the hands of
English people, whereas now the relation is quite re
versed. It is not, however, necessary to inquire
minutely into the causes of this change, due very
largely to Badeker' s plan of frequent editions as well
as to the appearance of a new type of traveller, fol
lowing the beaten tracks, and deshing the detailed
practical information as to inns, prices, &c., which

Murray and Badeker yj
' Badeker ' so amply affords, and also to his numerous
and very clear district maps. 'Badeker,' too, being
published in several languages, appeals to a larger
public than Murray ; while Americans, to whom
Switzerland is but a minor item in a rapid flight
through Europe, rarely go beyond Appleton's
'European Guide-book,' in which all Continental
countries are concisely described within the limits
of a single volume. It is only fair to point out
that ' Murray ' devotes much attention to by-ways,
whereas ' Badeker ' is particularly strong as regards the
frequented tourists' roads and paths. ' Murray,' too,
has of late been very much improved, probably owing
to the exertions of a new editor. This improvement
is seen in the sixteenth edition (1879), the first appear
ing in two slim volumes ; and there is a marked
advance in the seventeenth edition (1886), which,
besides 86 pages of preliminary matter, has 559 pages
of text (the routes numbering 170) and twenty -five
maps, plans, and panoramas.®" It is now very
thorough and clear. Eoughly speaking, I should say
that, whfle ' Badeker ' is unsm-passed for minute
practical detafls, ' Murray ' is far superior in the his
torical, scientific, and Alpine departments, while the
references to mountaineering and mountain climbs
throughout the last named book display technical
knowledge, so that a prudent traveller wishing to really
study the country should provide himself with both.
'Murray,' too, takes in not only the Swiss Alps, but,
in outline, all the Western Alps down to the Maritime
Alps— a most useful feature, considering the difficulty

78 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
an ordinary traveller would meet with in trying to get
information as to the less-frequented portions of the
French and Piedmontese Alps. In both the latest
editions of ' Murray ' we read, in the account of
Geneva, the following sentence : — ' In fact, the bitter
observance of the Sabbath has given place to general
cheerful enjoyment of the day of rest from ordinary
work ! ' Are we to suppose that the rather aggressive
Protestantism of ' Murray ' in former days has been
adapted to suit modern views, and that ' bitter ' is
satire ? or is the word simply a misprint for ' better ' ?
This might afford an interesting study in guide-book
ethics, an inquiry from which I must reluctantly
refrain. I must, however, find room to express a hope
that in the next edition ' Murray ' wiU improve the
section on the Waldensian vaUeys, not merely in
matters of history and topography, but as regards the
very poor map, which is in strong contrast to the
many new and clear maps recently added to the book.
The view of the Bernese Alps from Berne is aU but
identical with that in the 1888 edition, while the pan
orama from the Brevent is, in all essential points, a
reproduction of that in the edition of 1842. Both
might well be cancelled, if only to mark the progress
made in the reproduction of mountain views in the
course of the fifty years of her Majesty's reign — and
of 'Murray's.' The rough map of the Macugnaga
glacier appears for the first time in 1854 and is stfll
retained, but luckily a marvellous view of the summit
of Monte Eosa, from ' Schlagintweit's Stuhl,' first

Badeker 79
given in 1856, has disappeared by 1872, possibly by
1868, though it is stiU in the 1867 edition."

By 1843 ' Ebel ' had done its work — and a great
one. For English travellers ' Murray ' was all in all.
Various rivals for the favour of travellers of other
nationalities appeared to claim the vacant heritage —
in German notably Badeker, Von Escher, Von Tschudi,
and Berlepsch. The first edition of Badeker' s Swiss
guide-book appeared at Coblenz in 1844, in a modest
volume of 24 pages of introductory matter and 536
octavo pages of description, bearing the title of ' Die
Schweiz : Handbiichlein fur Eeisende, nach eigener
Anschauung und den besten Hilfsquellen verarbeitet.'
It was in a straw-coloured cover, stamped with the
arms of the twenty-two cantons, the well-known red
cover not appearing tfll later. In this little book, my
copy of which I count as one of the greatest curiosities
of my collection of Alpine works, there is a small and
rather indistinct map of Switzerland, at one end of
which appears a small view of the Alps from the Eigi.
The work itself contains eighty routes, mainly follow
ing the order in Part i. of ' Murray,' save that it also
takes over Chamonix, Courmayeur, and the Great
St. Bernard from Part ii., ' the Alps of Savoy and
Piedmont.' Thus, as ' Murray ' has always described
the Zermatt valley in Part ii., the first edition of
' Badeker ' makes not the slightest mention of it !
The preface to the 1844 edition explains that, as

8o Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Badeker's guides to Germany, Belgium, Holland, the
Ehine and the Moselle had been received with great
favour, he has now determined to issue one for Swit
zerland. He candidly avows that his book is based on
' Murray,' though maintaining that ' Murray ' supplied
the frame only of his picture, the latter being mainly
the result of German industry. Some obligations to
Joanne are also acknowledged. Stress is laid on the
fact that the subject is looked at from a German
point of view, which is different from that of an Eng
lishman or of a Frenchman. The object of the book
is to be of practical use on the spot, and most of the
places described had been visited by the author him
self. An appeal is made to travellers to communicate
corrections and fresh information, based on personal
experience, this appeal being specially addressed to
students, in remembrance of the days, a quarter of a
century before, when the author as a student began to
explore his Fatherland. The whole look of this
curious little volume is quite unlike that of the modern
' Badeker.' The only other early edition of ' Badeker '
which I have seen is the fifth (1854) , a copy of which
I possess. It externally resembles the red-covered
' Badekers ' we know so well, but within it is not much
more than a thoroughly revised edition of matter
previously published in this form. The preface lays
claim to considerable independence of ' Murray ' so far
as the substance of the text is concerned, though still
admitting that his book is taken as a basis ; attention
is drawn to the fact that the greatest care has been
taken to obtain full and recent information as to

Badeker 8 i
inns, those especially commended being marked with
a star, though innkeepers are warned that recommen
dations cannot be purchased. It concludes with the
remark that, as there are curious persons who receive
an anonymous book with distrust, the name of the
author is placed on the title-page. In the first edition
this had only appeared as that of the publisher. In
the 1854 edition the introductory matter fills 40 pages
and the text 374 — the pages being larger than in 1844.
The Zermatt, Saas, Anzasca, and Tournanche valleys
are now fully described, and the old matter has been
brought up to date. One of the most striking points of
contrast is that the 1854 edition contains two general
and three special (Eigi, Chamonix, Oberland) maps, as
weU as four plans of towns, a panorama from the Faul-
horn, and sixteen woodcuts. The small view from the
Eigiis common to both editions, the lakes being coloured
blue in 1844 and left plain in 1854. Herr Peyer (p. 164)
tells us that the earlier editions abounded in poetical quo
tations, so that this guide-book was not always as con
cise, matter of fact, and practical as we know it now.
The original author, Karl Badeker (born 1801), pub
lished also guide-books to other places, the first being
for the Ehme (1889), then Belgium and HoUand (1842),
foUowed (1855) by another for Paris. The present
head of the firm is his son, who bears the same name.
He has well upheld the inherited tradition, and has
maintained the book at a very high standard. He is
also a climber, and on August 4, 1868, made the first
ascent of the Sflberhorn. It is to him that we are
indebted for a handy ' Guide-book for Great Britain '

82 'Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
(1887), which, like all its brethren (now a host in num
ber), is most admirable. Badeker's Swiss guide-book
(with which alone we are here specially concerned)
has always been particularly strong in the matter of
district maps and of the latest practical detafls, though,
of course, it is not especially intended for moun
taineers. In 1859 it appeared in English andT'rench
translations, which have gone through many editions.
In German, the twenty-second edition appeared in
1887 ; it contains thirty-six maps, ten plans of towns,
and eleven panoramas ; in English, the twelfth edition
appeared in 1887.
G. von Escher (who had edited the last two editions
of ' Ebel ') published, in 1851, a guide-book under his
cwn name, entitled ' Neuestes Handbuch fiir Eeisende
in der Schweiz.' It is an 8vo., containing 106 pages
of introductory matter and 601 pages (double columns)
of text, besides a most elaborate index filling 65 pages
more. The author tells us in his preface that he has
abandoned the alphabetical arrangement of even the
latest edition of ' Ebel ' in favour of Murray's far more
convenient system of routes. The routes here number
280, and there is a route map, whfle the two pano
ramas of the 1843 ' Ebel ' are given with their outlines
fiUed in. The book seems well arranged and very fuU,
but Herr Peyer (p. 166) tells us that it never attained
the honours of a second edition.
Von Tschudi' s guide-book has been the only really
successful rival of ' Badeker,' and, so far as guide-books
in German are concerned, these two are the true
heirs of Ebel. But ' Badeker ' is rather for the ordinary

Von Tschudi 83
easy-going traveller, whereas ' Von Tschudi ' caters as
well for those who aim at making high ascents ; and
though, owing to its extreme conciseness, it is, from a
literary point of view, very unreadable, it brings
together and classifies, according to an admirable
method, a reaUy amazing amount of facts. The
author, Iwan von Tschudi, was a member of the
famous Glarus famfly, and was born in 1818. The
first edition was pubhshed in 1855 in a modest form,
and bore the title of ' Schweizerfiihrer.' In 1872 it
was remodelled and took the name of ' Der Turist in
der Schweiz.' This guide-book combines the most
characteristic features of ' Murray,' of ' Badeker,' and of
, ' BaU.' No one, perhaps, has ever known every nook
and corner of Switzerland better than Von Tschudi,
though he did not claim to be a chmber pure and simple,
but held himself to be rather an explorer and one who
made known the explorations of others.'^* Concise,
accurate, kept up to date (especially in the matter
of new ascents), it well deserves the judgment long
ago passed on it by such a high authority as Mr.
P. F. Tuckett (and endorsed again and again), that it
is ' the best pocket-guide for mountaineers.' ®^ Its
merits were recognised by the English Alpine Club, who
conferred on the author the rarely bestowed honour
of election as an ' Honorary Member ' of the Club. I
learn with pleasure that the author's lamented death
on Aprfl 28, 1887, wfll not entail the decease of his
book. The thirtieth edition appeared in the spring of
1888 in a new plain cover, and without the raflway
maps at the end (now issued in a separate form), but
a 2

84 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
otherwise it seems to be unchanged and retains all
its well-known features. It fills 660 closely, but
clearly, printed double column octavo pages, and con
tains three maps, eight plans of towns, and nine
panoramas. If I were allowed but one general Swiss
guide-book, I would certainly select that of Von
Tschudi. It is to be regretted that it has never been trans
lated into English. A French edition appeared in
1864 by the name of ' Guide en Suisse ' (5 fr.). In
1869-70 the German edition was issued in three
separate handy octavo volumes, treating respectively
of Northern and Western Switzerland, the Forest Can
tons Valais and Tessin, and Eastern S'witzerland. In
this form (in which much detafled information was
given which does not appear in the one-volume edition)
the book reached a third edition in 1870-1, but this
plan seems to have been dropped after that date.
Several special sections were also reprinted separately
in 1870-1, viz. Oberland, Lake of Geneva and Cha
monix, Graubiinden, Eagatz, Valais and Tessin. The
present one-volume edition is so arranged that it can
be divided into four separately sewn portions — North
and West Switzerland, Forest Cantons Valais and
Tessin, East Switzerland, Piedmont and Savoy. In
1871 there appeared a slim Svo. volume by the same
author, entitled ' Savoyen und das angrenzende
Piemont und Dauphine,' which reached the honours of
a cheap edition in 1878. This contamed a description
of the whole of Savoy — not only of Chamonix, but
of the Tarentaise and Maurienne — as well as of the

Berlepsch 85
Dauphine Alps, the Grande Chartreuse group, and the
Queyras, all very well described, considering how little
they were explored at that time. In the latest one-
volume edition the Chamonix bit of the 1871 book is
kept in, and also a few pages on the Mont Cenis, Little
St. Bernard, and Waldensian valleys (all, of course,
thoroughly revised) ; while there is added a very full
and concise guide to the Cogne district (of which there
is no trace in the 1871 book), which one is rather sur
prised to find in a Swiss guide-book (though ' Murray,'
in accordance with the title-page, is, particularly in its
latest editions, even fuller in this respect), but which
is all the more acceptable.
The fourth of the guide-books in German, which
a^ed at taking the place of Ebel, was H. A.
'Berlepsch's ' Neuestes Eeisehandbuch fur die Schweiz,'
of which the first edition appeared in 1862 at Hildburg-
hausen as No. i. of Meyer's series of ' Eeisebucher ' (8vo,
pp. xlvu.-661, double columns, fourteen maps, five plans
of towns, seven panoramas and sixteen fllustrations).
The book comprises 141 routes. In the preface the
author explains his scheme. As the book is specially
meant for those entering Switzerland from Germany,
the routes mainly start from the Lake of Constanz
and Basel. Within the country they branch out from
three main centres — Chur, Lucerne, and Bern — the
description of the course of some primary main route
being followed by those of the secondary and side
routes which diverge from it. These main or trunk
routes generaUy follow the valleys or the track over
the ordinary passes. Special attention was paid to

86 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the insertion of information as to the flora of each
district or place.
In 1864 an abridged form of the book appeared
at Hfldburghausen as No. iv. of 'Meyer's Eeise
biicher,' under the style of 'Wegweiser durch die
Schweiz ' (12mo., 190 pages, two maps), the larger work
appearing also in a French translation.
In 1872, Berlepsch pubhshed at Leipzig, with the
aid of J. G. Kohl, a work under the old title, ' Die
Schweiz : neuestes Eeisehandbuch ' (8vo., 528 pp., ten
maps, six plans of towns, five panoramas, and twenty-
two illustrations) ; but as a sixth edition of the original
work by Berlepsch alone appeared in 1871, and a
seventh in 1873 (both at Hfldburghausen), the two
books must clearly be in some way distinct, though,
not having seen either, I cannot explain what seems
a very odd proceeding. The joint work appeared in
1874 in an English dress. As far as I can understand
matters, the original work seems to have later taken
the title of ' Meyer's Eeisebiicher : Die Schweiz,' of
which the eleventh edition appeared at Leipzig in
1886 (pp. lxii-364), with twenty-one maps, eight plans
of towns, and twenty-six panoramas. In the preface
to the fourth French edition, which is based on the
ninth (1877) edition, we are told that it is ' redige a
neuf et par d'autres ecrivains speciaux. M. Berlepsch
est reste, en effet, completement etranger a la redaction
de cet ouvrage, comme il Test depuis des annees a celle
de I'edition allemande, des raisons serieuses ayant
force I'editeur de confier le travail ^ d'autres mains.'
Meanwhile the joint work appeared at Ziirich in a fourth

Minor Swiss Guide-Books 87
edition in 1882, as the seventeenth ' recension ' (Bear-
beitung) of Berlepsch, an eighteenth much abridged,
(Bvo., 204 pp.), and afifth edition (' Schweiz, Chamonix,
Velthn, etc.'), remodelled after the author's death,
by M. Koch von Berneck (pp. xxxii-472), appearing
in 1884. The ' Wegweiser ' reached a fourth edition
in 1879. Berlepsch's book would therefore seem to
have put on four different forms during its lifetime,
issued for the first time respectively in 1862, 1864,
1872, and 1884, but not having been able to examine
a complete series (especially about the years 1872-6),
I cannot say how far my theory is justified by facts.
Berlepsch was, however, better known by his ad
mirable volumes entitled,' ' Die Alpen in Natur- und
Lebensbfldern ' (1861, Translated the same year by
Mr. Leslie Stephen, the fifth German edition being
dated 1886) and ' Schweizerkunde ' (first edition,
1859-1864 ; second, 1875) than by his guide-book,
which came at a time when the ground was fully
occupied, though no one can deny the profound
knowledge of Switzerland from every point of view
possessed by the lamented author, who died in 1883.
Two other Swiss guide-books may be more briefly
described. One is the ' Praktisches Handbuch fur
Eeisende,' of which the tenth edition (1888), edited
by K. Berner, an octavo of 265 pages (costing 8s.), was
published by Goldschmidt at Berlin as vol. 28 of
Grieben's 'Eeisebibliothek.' A smaUer edition (120
pages) cost only Is. %d. The fourteenth edition of this
work, edited by Th. Stromer (274 pages), appeared in
1889, as well as a new edition (126 pages) in the

88 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
smaller form. This is absolutely all the information
which I have been able to procure concerning this book,
which for a work of which fourteen editions have now
been issued seems to have made wonderfully httle
stir in the world and to have left very faint traces
behind it. The other is Joseph Lacroix's ' Nouveau
Guide General du Voyageur en Suisse,' priced at
ten francs. This is an octavo volume containing 407
pages, published at Paris by Garnier freres. It bears
no date on the title-page, but as mention is made of
the date of 1868 in speaking of Monte Eosa, while the
Matterhorn is still called inaccessible, it was, no doubt,
pubhshed between 1863 and 1865. It contains an
unusually large and detafled general map of the
country, besides woodcuts, plans of towns, and a
panorama from the Chaumont. The text seems, as
far as I have examined it, to be adapted to the use of
ordinary tourists, the usual paths and excursions
being described, while vague allusions only are made
to the higher peaks. The most remarkable feature
about the book is its arrangement. Switzerland is
divided into two great halves. The first is entitled
' La Suisse Industrielle,' taking in the western,
northern, and north-eastern portions of the land,
treated in five chapters — Geneva and Fribourg, the
Jura, Berne and Soleure, North East, S. Gall ; the
second is caUed ' La Suisse Pastorale,' and includes the
central, southern, and eastern districts split up into
four sections : Oberland, Forest Cantons, Glarus and
Grisons, Tessin and Valais. In the former main divi
sion the great raflway lines, and then the chief roads

fOANNE 89
are described ; in the latter, the arrangement is more
specially designed for pleasure travellers. A supple
ment of ten pages is devoted to Chamonix and the
' tour du Mont Blanc'

I have been able to procure comparatively scanty
information with regard to the history of the principal
Swiss guide-book in French which has appeared in
recent times — the ' Guide Joanne,' which, as I have
pointed out (p. 182), may in some way have incorpo
rated or utflised Eichard's guide. Adolphe Joanne
(1813-81), the original author, is perhaps best known
to my readers as one ofthe founders (1874), and later
as the president (1876-9), of the French Alpine Club.
He began his travels in 1838-4,^" and it is largely on
his own experiences that he based his 'Itineraire
Descriptif et Historique de la Suisse,' of which the
first edition appeared in 1841.^' The second appeared
(with seven maps) in 1853 (a copy is in the Alpine
Club Library). I have a copy of the third (1859)
edition. It is in 8vo., contains 866 double-column
pages, and has ten maps, five plans of towns, ten views,
and seven panoramas. The 1887 edition has Ixxxvui
pages of introductory matter and 671 of text (double
columns), comprising 258 routes, together with nine
teen maps, five plans, and five panoramas. Though
forming a single volume it can be broken up into three
distinct parts. It has been thoroughly remodelled and I
brought up to date, so that it now ranks as one of the 1
four first-class general guide-books to Switzerland. '

90 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
The ' Itineraire Descriptif et Historique de la Savoie '
was first pubhshed in 1860. A very convenient and,
for the time, accurate volume, devoted specially to the
French Alps, appeared in 1877 (in 8vo., 1,088 pages,
twenty-one maps, four plans of towns, two panoramas)
under the style of ' Jura et Alpes Fran9aises.' The
series of ' Guides Diamant ' (in 16mo.) was started in
1866 (second edition of Swiss volume in 1868, third
edition in 1872, new edition with eleven maps in 1886),
and now the ' Collection des Guides Joanne,' in all
forms and for all countries, numbers no fewer than
120 volumes. M. Joanne has adopted the admirable
plan (which one wonders has not been more widely
adopted, owing to the facflities it offers for reprinting
every season) of grouping all information as to inns,
shops, carriages, guides, &c., at the end of the volume
and combining it with the index (this takes up 64
three-column pages in the 1887 edition). My friend
M. Duhamel informs me that this plan is not foUowed
in the fourth edition of the ' Itineraire de la Suisse '
(1872), but that it is adopted m the fifth (1874). It
is worth remembering that something of the same
plan was followed in the ' Eichard ' of 1824, a work
which seems to have some relation to ' Joanne,' which
I have hitherto completely fafled to trace out in
detail. A short notice may suffice for two minor Swiss
guide-books in French. One of these is the ' Guide
Conty' (2 fr. 50 c), by H. Conty, of which I
possessed a copy (' Quinze Jours dans la Suisse
Centrale — Oberland iernois, pp. 210 in 12mo., with

Conty and Latour 91
a 40-page supplement describing the inns in the
several places) as far back as 1865, so that it must
have originally appeared before that date. It is
¦written for the use of French tourists who have taken
circular tickets from Paris to Switzerland and back,
and is distinguished as much by its superficiality as
by the unconscious way in which, whfle trying to be
instructive, it becomes most mirth-provoking. It
appears now in two forms : (1) ' Suisse Fran9aise :
Savoie, Oberland, Suisse Centrale ' (12mo., 284 pp.),
intended for those who hold fifteen or twenty day ordi
nary circular tickets to Switzerland over the Lyons or
Eastern Eailway lines. (2) ' Suisse du Nord : Grand
Duche de Bade et Engadine,' intended for the holders
of a ticket (first issued in 1884) enabling them to visit
Northern and Eastern Switzerland. The names of
the inns are printed on blue paper at the end of the
book, the places being arranged in alphabetical order.
The other is the ' Guide Pratique du Voyageur en
Suisse et dans la Vallee de Chamouny, par les freres
Latour ' (Paris and Geneva, circa 1873, 1 2mo., pp.
cxii-489, 3 fr.), for the sight of which I am in
debted to the kindness of my friend M. Henry
Duhamel. The book is, according to the preface,
based on the experience gained during fifteen summer
journeys in Switzerland, and is intended to supply the
most minute practical details, so that the expense of a
trip may be exactly calculated and swindling may be
prevented as far as possible. Seventy pages of the
introduction are taken up with minute directions (the
smaUest expenses being set down) for a variety of tours.

92 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
varying from a week to seventy-four days out and in,
Paris, of course, being the centre from which the start
is made and to which the traveller is made to return.
The expenses for a week's round are estimated at
from 194 fr. 25 c. to 281 fr. 75 c, those for a fortnight
from 285 fr. 45c. to 498 fr. 85 c, and those for a month
from 480 fr. 45 c. to 908 fr. 90c., the variations being
caused by the taking or not taking of horses, guides, &c.
The descriptive portion of the work is divided into 146
chapters or routes, there are six outline maps de
scribed as ' tres claires ' (general, Chamonix, Zermatt,
Oberland, Eigi, Pontresina), the inns (with tables of
prices) are placed in an appendix under the names of
places, arranged alphabetically, and the book ends
with a supplement of eight pages, giving the Oberland
tariff for horses and carriages, as well as those of the
Federal dfligences, and of the Eigi railway. This work
is intended for the ordinary tourist, and seems clearly
arranged, though one cannot help smfling at the foot
note to the description of the Eggischhorn view : ' C'est
de ce cote seulement que quelques mtrepides font
parfois la perilleuse ascension de la Jungfrau.'
I cannot do more than mention the Savoy guide
of M. Gabriel de Mortillet, entitled ' Guide de I'Etranger
en Savoie et en Haute- Savoie,' which first appeared
in 12mo. in 1855.

Of some other Swiss guide-books published at very
low prices it must suffice to say but a few words.
Mr. Charles Boner's ' Guide for TraveUers in the Plain

Cheap Swiss Guide-Books 93
and on the Mountain ' (1876) contains in its second
part much useful advice for climbers of moderate
ambition, with fllustrations drawn from the author's
Tyrolese experiences. The ' Practical Swiss Guide,
by an Englishman abroad ' (1869, 3s. ; one for the
Bernese Oberland appeared as long ago as 1864), is
well fitted for people who try to imitate Mr. Mark
Twain's method of travelling, but lack his humour ;
whfle ' The J. E. M. Guide to Switzerland: the Alps
and How to See them ' (1882, 2s. %d.), rests, accord
ing to the published opinion of its compiler, at least
in part, on the approval of ' a Minor Canon or two.'
Travellers not belonging to that select order can
hardly be recommended to see the Alps through the
eyes of Mr. J. E. Muddock. A third edition of this
work, ' improved, revised, and corrected,' was issued
in 1883 (4s. 6cZ.), which, according to the preface,
contains several new maps and illustrations, and now
fiUs 401 octavo pages.
Paterson' s ' Guide to Switzerland, with maps and
plans ' (second edition, 1886), is a marvellous shilling's
worth. It does not pretend to help any one when
above the snow-line, as there a guide is wanted rather
than a guide-book. Clear and practical, wefl written,
and well printed, it is, however, a little given to
borrowing, without acknowledgment, from the pages
of its rivals. The maps are poor, but the plans of
towns are good and up to date. A passing mention
is sufficient for Bradshaw's ' Pedestrian Eoute-book for
Switzerland, Chamonix and the Italian Lakes ' (1869),
Bradshaw's 'Illustrated Handbook for Switzerland

94 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and the Tyrol' (by 1868), and E. AUbut's 'The
Tourist's Handbook to Switzerland ' (1884), the last
named of which is possibly identical with Mr. T. Cook's
' Tourists' Handbook to Switzerland.' Of an older
Swiss guide-book in Enghsh I know nothing, beyond
the foUowing mention in Albert Smith's ' The Story
of Mont Blanc ' (1853 edition. Notice, p. v.) : ' Mr.
Bogue's " Guide to Switzerland and Savoy " is very
minute and correct in aU its Geneva and Chamouni
detafls.' Herr J. J. Egh's ' Die Schweiz ' (1886, Is.) is
rather a supplement to a guide-book than a guide-book
proper, for it devotes much space to the past history,
as well as to the present social, economical, and
pohtical state of the country, whfle the rest of the
book consists of general descriptions of districts, with
out minute indications as to routes, &c. This pam
phlet (for it is hardly more) contains much informa
tion which it is not easy to get except by consulting
many larger books, and, though necessarfly brief, is
always clear, accurate, and up to date. It is wonder
ful how the publisher (G. Freytag, of Leipzig) has,
for so small a sum, contrived to give forty-eight
illustrations, well chosen and fairly well reproduced
from photographs. The contents are divided into
twelve chapters, and fill 209 pages, whfle there is a
fuU index, but no map seems to accompany the book.

Such is the history of the general Swiss guide
books published since 1684, the date of the first

Descriptions of Special Districts 95
edition of 'Wagner.' We must now turn to those
which treat of special subjects or of special districts.
The transition from general to special guide-books
is best iUustrated by three series, each volume of which
aims at describing a special district more minutely
than Ebel and his compeers, while yet each is a
special description rather than a special guide-book for
travellers. The earliest of these appeared at Zurich,
between the years 1802 and 1822, inthe ' Helvetischer
Almanach.' Each canton had a part to itself,
written by some one specially qualified for the task
hy his minute local knowledge. Several of these de
scriptions, Herr Studer (p. 587) assures us, are very
good. The next series was carried out on very much
the same hnes, but was better executed and more com
plete than its predecessor. This is the collection
which appeared at St. Gallon and Bern, from 1884 to
1859, in 22 Svo. volumes, under the general title of
' Historisch-Geographisch-Statistisches Gemalde der
Schweiz.' Many of the volumes are admirable mono
graphs and well worth consulting, even at the present
time. By some mischance the following cantons were
not described in this series : Bern, St. GaUen, Zug,
Basel (rural half), Valais, Neuchatel, and Geneva.
The third series is that known as ' Europaische Wan-
derbflder ' (in Enghsh as ' Illustrated Europe,' and in
French as ' L'Europe fllustree '), of which 150 numbers
have been pubhshed within the last eleven or twelve
years at Ziirich, by Orell, Fiissli & Co., each costing
sixpence, or fifty centimes. A very large propor
tion of these 150 parts are devoted to S'wiss towns

96 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
and districts, and though the work is chiefly a com
pilation, yet it is compiled from the best authorities
and supplemented by local information. This series
seems to me to include the best local guide-books (not
especially meant for mountaineers) to different places
in Switzerland which have yet been published, though,
of course, being published separately, no view of
Switzerland as a whole is gained. It includes a recent
monograph of Zurich (four parts), which is extremely
full and complete, while for purely Alpine purposes
Professor F. 0. Wolf's handbook to the Valais and
Chamonix (25 parts), just completed, is by far the most
interesting volume of the series, and is, on the whole,
very well done, with the exception of the Chamonix
section. This is, perhaps, the place to mention three
important descriptive works which treat of the Alps
as a whole, and naturaUy contain much information
about Switzerland. These are Monsieur A. Civiale's
' Les Alpes au point de vue de la Geographie Physique
et de la Geologic ' (Paris, 1882), Professor F. Umlauft's
' Die Alpen : Handbuch der gesammten Alpenkunde '
(Vienna, 1887 ; translated into Enghsh, 1888), ^^ ^nd
Monsieur E. Levasseur's ' Les Alpes et les Grandes
Ascensions ' (Paris 1889).

We must now pass on to special guide-books pro
perly so called. These may relate to special subjects
or to special districts.
The former class of works may be roughly de
scribed as those which treat in detail of some aspects

Special Subject Guide-Books 97
of Switzerland which are conspicuous by their presence
m the older and by their nearly complete absence or
enthe transformation in the modern general guide
books. For instance, the fact that the ' air cure ' (and
to a certam extent the ' whey cure ') has very largely
replaced the ' water cure ' in Switzerland is shown by
the increasing number of books treating of the former
method, though the 'Bath literature,' which dates
from the sixteenth century, is far from extinct, as
witness early and recent guide-books to Leukerbad,
Saxon, Pfaffers, Tarasp, &c. Of more general books
of this kind I may cite a few typical specimens — Dr.
Edwin Lee's ' The Principal Baths of Switzerland '
(1865), Dr. Burney Yeo's ' Notes on St. Moritz and
Tarasp' (1870), Dr. W. Marcet's 'The Principal
Southern and Swiss Health Eesorts : their Climate
and Medical Aspect ' (London, 1888), Herr A. Feiera-
bend's ' Die klimatischen Kurorte der Schweiz '
(Vienna, 1865), Herr Th. Gsellfels's 'Die Bader und
klimatischen Kurorte der Schweiz ' (Zurich, 2nd edi
tion 1886), and Herr H. Loetscher's ' Handbook to
the Health Eesorts of Switzerland ' (Ziirich, 1887).
If we look at Switzerland from a general scientific
rather than a medical point of view, two recent works
attract our attention at once, both m their way suc
cessors of Ehe Bertrand's quaint work entitled ' Essai
sur les Usages des Montagnes ' (1754), which is largely
geological- and mineralogical, but has many pages on
the uses of mountains in general ; and of the more
scientific treatise of Besson, ' Manuel pour les Savans
et les Curieux qui voyagent en Suisse ' (1786). One of
H

98 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
these is Mr. J. E. Morell's ' Scientific Guide to Switzer
land ' (London, 1867, Svo., pp. xvi — 411), which de
scribes in minute detafl the orography, hydrography,
geology, fauna, flora, fish, insects, meteorology, and
glaciers of the country, and contains much valuable and
recent information. The other is the work published
at Vienna (1878-82) in two octavo volumes (or five
parts) by the German and Austrian Alpine Club
under the title of ' Anleitung zu wissenschaftlichen
Boobachtungen auf Alpenreisen.' This takes in the
Alps as a whole, though with special reference to the
Eastern Alps. It includes elaborate sections on oro
graphy and hydrography (Von Sonklar), geology
(Giimbel), meteorology (Hann), anthropology (J.
Eanke), zoology, and botany (Von DaUa Torre).
This last section (which has been translated into
English by A. W. Bennett under the name of ' The
Tourist's Guide to the Flora of the Alps,' 1SS6) is
accompanied by A. Hartinger's splendid series of
plates (500 in number) of Alpine plants, the most
complete hitherto published," and a great advance on
J. C. Weber's 400 plates in his ' Die Alpenpflanzen
Deutschlands und der Schweiz ' (4 vols, at Munich,
second edition 1868 ; third edition 1872 ; now in its
fourth edition), and even on J. Seboth's 400 plates
in his ' Die Alpenpflanzen nach der Natur gemalt ' (4
vols., Prague, 1879-88; Enghsh edition by A. W.
Bennett in 4 vols., under the title of ' Alpine Plants
painted from Nature.' An earlier work of this kind was
Labram's ' Sammlung von Schweizer-Pflanzen ' (1835-
49), a set of 888 lithographed plates.

Botany and Glaciers gg
The mention of these last works leads us on to
the department of Swiss botany, in which there are
numerous works of various degrees of merit, such as
Wittenbach's edition of A. von HaUer's ' Icones plan-
tarum Helvetise' (1795) ; J. Gaudin's ' Flora Helvetica '
(7 vols., 1828-30; new edition, 1828-33); W. D. J.
Koch's ' Synopsis Flors Germanicse et Helve ticse '
(1887; second edition, m 3 vols., 1846-47; third
edition, in 2 vols., 1857), and his ' Taschenbuch der
Deutschen und Schweizerischen Flora ' (1844, fifth
edition 1860, remodelled in 1878) ; Job. Heget-
schweiler's ' Die Flora der Schweiz ' (1840) ; Jos.Woods'
' The Tourist's Flora ' (1850) ; Eeichenbach's ' Icones
Florse Germanicse et Helveticse ' (1850, 22 vols., 4to.) ;
A. Gremli's ' Excursionsflora fiir die Schweiz ' (1867,
sixth edition 1889) ; E. T. Simler's ' Botanischer
Taschenbegleiter des Alpenclubisten ' (1871) ; L.
Bouvier's ' Flore de la Suisse et de la Savoie ' (1878,
second edition 1882) ; H. Christ's ' Das Pflanzenleben
der Schweiz ' (1879 ; translated into French 1888) ;
H. Correvon's ' Les Plantes des Alpes ' (1885) ; and
Thome's 'Flora von Deutschland,' now in course of
publication (4 vols, issued).
When we pass from botany to geology and
meteorology, we come at once to the subject which of
all others is of the greatest interest to mountaineers —
glaciers. The works of Eendu (1840), Agassiz (1840
and 1847), Charpentier (1841), Forbes (1843-53, and
a volume of occasional papers, ranging from 1841-58,
issued in 1859 under the title of 'The Theory of
Glaciers'), Desor (1844 and 1845), TyndaU (1860 and
H 2

loo Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1871), DoUfus-Ausset (1863-69), Helmholtz (1865),
and Forel,'* contain most valuable observations, but are
not arranged in a handy form suitable for travellers,
so that I am forced to pass them over with the barest
mention. Three works, however, in this department
deserve the attention of travellers, as they are specially
meant as handbooks for them. These are Prof.
Tyndall's ' The Forms of Water in Clouds and Elvers,
Ice, and Glaciers ' (1872), Herr Coaz's ' Die Lauinen
der Schweizeralpen ' (1881),^' and Prof. Helm's 'Hand
buch der Gletscherkunde ' (1885), of which Mr.
Tuckett has given a very full account in the ' Alpine
Journal.' '® Mr. G. F. Browne's ' Ice-Caves of France
and Switzerland ' (1865) treats of ' glacieres ' or sub
terranean ice-caves.
For Swiss geology, the great storehouse of
materials is the set of magnificent quarto volumes
published by the Government Geological Commission
under the name of ' Materiaux pour la Carte geologique
de la Suisse,' of which over twenty volumes have
appeared. Of the older works on the subject, those
by A. and H. Schlagintweit, ' Untersuchungen iiber die
physikalische Geographie und die Geologie der Alpen '
(1850 and 1854), and by Herr Bernhard Studer, ' Die
Geologie der Schweiz ' (1851-53), are said to be the
best. Alphonse Favre's ' Eecherches Geologiques '
(1867) deals with the neighbourhood of the Mont
Blanc chain, whether on its Swiss, French, or Italian
side ; while another side of the subject is represented
by A. Helm's ' Mechanismus der Gebhgsbfldung '
(1878). Prof. Oswald Heer's ' Die Urwelt der Schweiz '

Geology and Zoology ioi
(1865, 2nd edition 1879 ; English translation by J.
Heywood in 2 vols., 1876) is mainly geological. Less
elaborate are M. Desor's sketch of the Geology of the
Alps in the introduction to Mr. Ball's ' Alpine Guide '
(1863), and Herr Giimbel's tractate (1878) in the
'Anleitung,' published by the German and Austrian
Alpine Club noticed above. For Alpine zoology, the
standard work is Friedrich von Tschudi's ' Das
Thierleben der Alpenwelt ' (1853) , which has now passed
through ten editions in German, whfle it was trans
lated into English in 1858, and into French in 1859.
A general summary of the geology, hydrography,
zoology, and meteorology of Switzerland will be
found in the first part of Berlepsch's admirable
' Schweizerkunde ' (1859-64, 2nd edition 1875).
This short review of some guide-books to special
departments of natural science may be fully closed by
a reference to the excellent and very clear sections on
the glaciers (by Mr. Ba;ll), geology (by M. Desor), and
zoology (by Mr. Carter Blake) of the Alps in the intro
duction to Mr. Ball's ' Alpine Guide.'
To climbers pure and simple, the two following
works should be deeply interesting, as showing them
the dangers which beset them, and some means of
escaping from the perfls of the mountains: Herr E.
Zsigmondy's 'Die Gefahrender Alpen' (1885, French
translation issued in 1886),^^ and Pfarrer H. Baum-
gartner's 'Die Gefahren des Bergsteigens ' (1886).''*
Numerous as are special subject guide-books to
Switzerland, they are far exceeded in number by those

102 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
devoted to special districts. Within the limits of this
work it is clear that very few of these books can be
mentioned even by name, and those I have selected
are chosen as having special reference to the Alpine
regions of Switzerland. First in the point of date
after the publication of Ebel (1798) come Chretien de
Mechel's ' Itineraire du St. Gothard et d'une partie du
Valais' (Bale, 1795), and Prof. Struve's 'Description
topographique, physique et politique du Pays de Vaud,
en forme d'itineraire pour les Savans et les Voyageurs'
(Lausanne, 1796). Then in 1807 we have K. Zay's
' Goldau und seine Gegend, wie sie war und was sie
geworden ' — for the destruction of Goldau, in 1806,
created as profound an impression at the beginning of
this century as that of Plurs in the Val Bregagha
in 1618.^9 Three peaks, too, which were formerly (and to some
degree stfll are) regarded as the peaks which a
traveller must ascend, have been described minutely in
three monographs — the Eigi by H. KeUer in his ' Be
schreibung des Eigibergs, aUer auf denselbenfiihrenden
Wege und der beriihmten Kulm-Aussicht ' (Ziirich,
1828, to accompany the panorama from the same point),
the Faulhorn by J. J. Schweizer in his ' Das Faulhorn
im Grindelwald ' (Bern, 1882, with a panorama by
Schmid), and Pilatus in an S. A. C. Festschrift 'Der
Pflatus ' (Luzern, 1868).
It is interesting to find that the Geneva and Cha
monix districts, which were the first to possess a
special guide-book, have throughout maintained the
foremost position in this department. The list given

Special District Guide-Books 103
in Appendix A, is therefore, of distinct historical value,
as showing how thoroughly those regions were explored
before other hflly districts in Switzerland and Savoy.
It is certain that no other mountain district can show
such a complete series of local guide-books extending
over a period of just a hundred years since the publica
tion of Berthout van Berchem's book in 1790.
Of the Swiss Alpine cantons, those which, after
Geneva and Vaud, have been most frequently described
in local guide-books, are Graubunden and Tessin. For
the former we have Von Tscharner's ' Wanderungen
durch die Ehatischen Alpen ' (1829-81), and his Guide
book (1842) ; Jakob Papon's ' Engadin ' (1857) ; Ernst
Lechner's ' Piz Languard und die Berninagruppe '
(1858; second edition 1865), and 'Das Thai Bergefl'
(1865 ; second edition 1874) ; G. Leonhardi's ' Das
Poschiavmothal ' (1859) ; G. Theobald's ' Naturbflder
aus den Ehatischen Alpen ' (1860, second and enlarged
edition 1862), and his ' Das Bundner Oberland '
(1861); J. M. Ludwig's 'Pontresina' (1875; new
edition 1879 ; Enghsh translation 1876) ; M. Cavie-
zel's ' Das Oberengadin ' (1876 ; fifth edition 1886 ;
Enghsh translation 1877) ; F.Lurani's 'Le Montague
di Val Masino ' (1883) ; besides others, doubtless, of
which I have not heard.
For Tessin we have D. Macaneo's ' Verbani lacus
locorumque adjacentium chorographica descriptio '
(1490, repubhshed with large additions in 1699) ; L.
Lavizzari's ' Escursioni nel cantone Ticino ' (1859-
1862) ; Signor Balh's ' La Valle Maggia ' (1884), and
' Valle Bavona ' (1885) ; Hardmeyer's ' Locarno et

I04 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
ses Vallees' (in 'L'Europe lUustree'); and several
chapters in Signori G. G. Bazetta and E. Brusoni's
' Guida deir Ossola e sue adiacenze ' (1888).
Other cantons have been less fortunate. For the
Valais we have Prof. M. Ulrich's ' Die Seitenthaler
des WaUis und der Monte Eosa ' (1850) ; Herr G.
Berndt's remarkable monograph on ' Das Val d'An-
niviers ' (1882 ; ' Erganzungsheft,' No. 68 to ' Peter
mann's Mittheilungen ') ; and Prof. Wolf's ' Wallis und
Chamonix ' (just completed, 1888, inthe ' Europaische
Wander bilder '). In the case of Bern the only local
books which profess to describe the higher regions are
Herr F. N. Konig's 'Eeise in die Alpen' (Bern, 1814,
mainly concerned with the Bernese Oberland) ; J. E,
Wyss's 'Hand- Atlas fiir Eeisende in das Berner Ober
land ' (1816) ; the very handy ' Taschenbuch fiir Eei
sonde im Berner Oberlande ' (Sauerlander, Aarau, Svo.
1829) ; the ' Nouvelle Description de I'Oberland Bernois
a I'usage des Voyageurs ' (Bern, Burgdorfer, 1838)
Monsieur P. Ober's 'L'Oberland Bernois sous les rap
ports historique, scientifique et topographique ' (2 vols
Bern, 1854) ; and Herr Karl Stettler's ' Das Frutigland
(Bern, 1887) ; for Herr E. A. Tiirler's ' Das malerische
und romantische Emmenthal nebst den angrenzenden
Landestheilen ' (Burgdorf, 1887) has to do with the
minor heights only. For Unterwalden we have Herr
C. Cattani's ' Das Alpenthal Engelberg ' (1852), and
' Engelberg, ses environs et ses cures de kit ' (1854),
with Prof. H. Christ's ' Ob dem Kernwald ' (1869), and
Herr E. A. Tiirler's 'Die Berge am Vierwaldstatter-
See' (1888). For the Jura there are F. Osterwald's

Swiss Towns 105
' Description des montagnes et des vallees qui font
partie de la principaute de Neuchatel et Valangin '
(1766), as well as the ' Description topographique de
la Mairie de Valangin' (1795), ' de la juridiction de
Neuchatel' (1827), and 'de la Chatellenie du Val de
Travers' (1830), besides MM. L. and G. Favre's
* Guide du Voyageur dans le Canton de Neuchatel
{1871). For Glarus we have J. H. Tschudi's ' Beschrei
bung des Orts und Lands Glarus ' (Zurich, 1714) ; J
G. Ebel's ' Schilderung der Gebirgsvolker der Schweiz
(1798 ; specially describing Glarus and Appenzell)
and J. M. Schuler's ' Die Linththaler.' Finally,
I may mention two old guide-books to the neighbour
hood of two of the great Swiss lakes: J. L. Cysat's
* Beschreibung des Luzernersees ' (1661) and H. E.
Escher's ' Beschreibung des Zurichsees (1692) ; while
J. F. von Landsee's 'Enchiridion Helveticum Con-
stautise Episcopahs ' (1778) is a guide-book to the cities
and monasteries of about half of modern Switzer
land, comprised, tfll 1814-15, within the diocese of
Constanz. Such are the chief local guide-books concerned with
the Alpine cantons of which I have been able to hear :
a crowd more are mentioned in Herr B. Studer's
' Geschiehte der physischen Geographie der Schweiz,'
so often quoted in these pages. I may conclude this
imperfect sketch of a vast subject by mentioning the
chief guide-books to some of the great Swiss towns.
F'or Bern we have J. E. Gruner's 'Delicise Urbis Bernee '
<1782), J. G. Heinzmann's 'Beschreibung der Stadt
und Eepubhk Bern ' (2 vols., 1794-96), P. A. Stapfer's

io6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
' Berne : Histoire et Description ' (1835, in folio and
large Svo.) ; while K. J. Durheim's ' Historisch-topo-
graphische Beschreibung der Stadt Bern und ihrer
Umgebungen ' (1859), K. Howald's 'Das alte Bern:
Commentar zu dem Stadtplan von 1588 ' (1872), the
indefatigable Herr G. Studer's remarkable essay,
' Zur Topographie des alten Berns ' (1872-74, in
vol. viii. of the ' Archiv des historischen Vereins des
Kantons Bern '), and Herr E. von Eodt's ' Bernische
Stadtgeschichte ' (1886), throw much hght on the his
torical topography of the town.
For Ziirich there is Salomon Vogelin's 'Eine
Wanderung durch Zurich im Jahr 1504 '(1828 ; second
much enlarged edition m course of publication) for
the historical topography of the town, whfle J. J. and
G. von Escher in their 'Das alte und neue Ziirich,
historisch-topographisch beschrieben ' (1859), and the
latest issue of the Ziirich volume (4 parts) in the
'Europaische Wanderbilder,' supply afl necessary in
formation as to its present state. For Basel we have,
besides other works. Dr. D. A. Fechter's essay on the
topography of Basel in the 14th century (in the volume
issued in 1856 under the title of ' Basel im vierzehnten
Jahrhundert '), and M. Lutz's ' Basel und seine Umge
bungen ' (second edition, 1814), while for Luzern we
have J. Businger's ' Die Stadt Luzern in topographi-
scher, geschichtlicher und statisticher Hinsicht ' (1811),
'Lucerne and its Environs ' (1821), and 'Luzern und
seine Umgebungen, Eigi, Gotthard, und Pflatus '
(1833), besides a volume in the 'Europaische Wan-

The Great Peaks Attacked 107
derbflder,' and Theodor von Liebenau's 'Das alte
Luzern' (1881).
It would be wrong, too, not to mention the volumes
on the Eigi, Uetliberg, St. Gotthard, Arlberg, and
Brunig railways contained in the ' Europaische Wan-
derbflder,' for this shows us how intimately local and,
indeed, general guide-books are associated with the
increased facflities for communications which are no
where more remarkable than in Switzerland.

: With rare exceptions, men had, up to the middle
of the present century, been content with visiting the
higher snow regions for exclusively scientific purposes,
and few of the great peaks had been conquered, Mont
Blanc (1786), the Jungfrau (1811), and the Finsteraar-
horn (1812) being three of these exceptional cases.
! De Saussure and Bourrit had done much, but the
} exploration of the great ice-clad summits had been
' nearly abandoned since their days. A few, indeed
, (such as the Meyers, Hugi, Agassiz, Desor, and the
Nestor of living climbers, Gottlieb Studer), handed
on the torch from one to the other, but it was not till
after the memorable ascent of the Wetterhorn from
i Grindelwald (the first from that side), on September
I 17, 1854, by Mr. (now Mr. Justice) Wills, that the
i final assault began, and that climbing became recog-
¦ nised as one of the noblest forms — its devotees allow
j no exception — of healthful enjoyment. Monte Eosa
; — the second peak in height in the Alps — fell in 1855,

io8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the Dom in 1858, the Aletschhorn in 1859, thei
Schreckhorn and the Weisshorn in 1861, the Dentj
Blanche in 1862, the Aiguflle Verte, the Grandes
Jorasses, the Gabelhorn, and the Matterhorn in 1865. 1
The lesser peaks were also subdued, countless passes
were traversed, and the first part of the task of the
Alpine Club (founded in 1857) was completed. Since
then every summer has seen the unknown parts of the
Alps become smaller and smaller in extent, though
much still remains to be done, even in the best known
districts, in the way of minute exploration.
Such a great development of Swiss travel called
for a new guide-book, written from the special point
of view of climbers. Mr. Murray, in 1864 or 1865,
issued a knapsack guide to Switzerland (16mo.), which
went through three editions, but fqile^ to meet the re
quirements of mountaineers. Mr. John BaU took up
the heavy task, and by the publication of his ' Alpine
Guide,' in three octavo volumes (Western Alps, 1863,
xviii — 377 pages; Central Alps, 1864, xviu — 502 pages;
Eastern Alps, 1868, xxiv — 639 pages) did more than
any man before or since *" to help on Alpine explora
tion, summarising what had been done, and giving
most valuable hints for future climbers. Prefixed to
my copy of the 1863 volume there is a most excellent
introduction, covering 135 pages, which deals with all
kinds of subjects (largely scientific ones) relating to
the Alps and mountaineering. This has also been
printed in a separate form and was issued later hi a
revised edition. The ' Alpine Guide ' must be so well
known to and appreciated by my readers that I need

]\Ir. Ball's 'Alpine Guide' 109
not enter into minute details as to the general scheme
adopted, though I may point out that it includes the
entire chain of the Alps, without any reference to
political boundaries. Speaking for myself I may say
that I have had over twenty years' experience of this
guide-book, largely in those parts of the Alps least
known even to Mr. Ball ; and I wish to place on re
cord my profound admiration of the amazing success
with which the author has firmly grasped the main
lines of the topography of the most unfrequented dis
tricts ; so that all his followers have had to do has been
to fill in the outline sketched out with so masterly a
hand. Whfle Mr. BaU devotes his book in the first
instance to climbing pure and simple, he is ever on
the look-out for the geological and botanical pheno
mena of each district. This admirable work has,
however, not been kept posted up to date,^' though
almost aU that is required is to make certain abbrevia
tions and to enumerate recent ascents, the framework
being very nearly perfect, and a place ready for every
climb made in these latter days. It is much to be
wished that a new and thoroughly revised edition
should, with the permission of Mr. BaU, be graduaUy
published, and the proper body to undertake the work
is the Alpine Club, were it only as a tribute of honour
and respect to its first president and one of its most
distinguished members.
The most recent phase of guide-book development
dates back a few years only. Material so rapidly
accumulated in the periodicals of the Alpine Club and
of the societies on the Continent founded on the same

IIO Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
model, that it became more and more impossible for
one man to master the whole mass. Then arose spe
cialists who devoted themselves to limited districts,
and their special researches have resulted in special
guide-books in which every known route and ' varia
tion ' is briefly described and classified under its proper
head.*^ In Switzerland, Mr. Conway's ' Zermatt
Pocket-Book ' (1881) is as yet the only published
specimen of this class. It was more or less of an
experiment, but a most successful one, for the book
indicated the exact gaps still left in the exploration of
the district, so that nearly every ' new expedition '
made in the Monte Eosa district since 1881 is really
due to Mr. Conway's monograph. A revised and
very much enlarged edition is, I believe, in active pre
paration, while in 18S7 I pubhshed in conjunction
with MM. Duhamel and Perrin a book on simflar lines,
describing the little-known Dauphine Alps. Other
books on the same lines relating to the Tarentaise,
the Bernese Oberland, and the Mont Blanc chain are
in preparation or contemplation.

If Swiss guide-books form a small library in them
selves (and I have only noticed those of historical
importance or interest, mentioning in Appendix B
the chief general descriptions of Switzerland), Swiss
tourists have become a horde, to accommodate which
many inns have of late years been constructed,
though the risk and expenses are so great that many
hotel-keepers have become bankrupt. I take the

5 wiss Inns i i i
following curious figures from a report of Herr Guyer
on Swiss hotels, drawn up in connection with the Swiss
National Exhibition of 1883. They relate to the state
of things in 1880. He calculates that 1,002 inns have
been built in Switzerland for the special use of travel
lers, and that they contain 58,137 beds, an average of
58 apiece. The capital value of the land, buildings,
and furnitm-e belonging to these 1,002 establishments
is estimated at 320,000,000 francs (12,800,000L),
the gross profits on which are 53,000,000 francs
(2,120,000L), or 17 per cent., reduced, after deduction
of working expenses, to 16,000,000 francs (640,000L),
or only 5 per cent., the enormous competition and
the ever-increasing expenses accounting for this low
rate of profit. Of these 1,002 inns no fewer than 283
are situated in positions above 3,400 feet, or nearly the
height of Snowdon, fourteen being actually above
6,562 feet in elevation. Nor must it be supposed that
these lofty inns have all been buflt in very recent days,
as may be seen on reference to the list in Appendix C.
But it is only within the last few years that these
mountain inns have been much enlarged to accommo
date the ever-growing stream of tourists, especially
English tourists.
Herr Peyer has collected together (p. 247 of his
little book, to which I have so often referred) some
curious detafls as to the development of the means of
speedy locomotion in Switzerland. The first steamer
on a Swiss lake was the ' Guillaume TeU ' in 1823, on
the Lake of Geneva. The order in which steamers
began to ply on the other Swiss lakes is as follows : —

112 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Constanz (1824), Neuchatel (1826), Ziirich, Lucerne,
and Thun (afl in 1835), Brienz (1839), Zug (1852).
The first raflway on Swiss soil was the bit from St.
Louis to Basel, opened in 1844 ; but the first purely
Swiss hne was that from Zurich to Baden, opened in
1847. By 1858 the sections of the network of Swiss
railways which are most important for travellers were
completed. The Eigi lines "were built 1869-78 and
1873-75 ; that through Interlaken, from one lake
to another (the Bodeli-Bahn), in 1872-74, that up
the Uetliberg, near Zurich, in 1875, and that to the
Giessbach in 1883. The St. Gotthard hne was made
between 1872 and 1882 ; while the Briinig line was
opened in 1888, and the Pflatus railway on June 4,
1889. Nor should we forget the funicular raflway
from Territet to Glion. The construction of the line
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald
is rapidly advancing, and it is announced that it
will be completed in 1890; and one from Davos to
Samaden is planned ; while that from Visp to Zermatt
has been surveyed. There is some talk of buflding
funicular railways (to run during the summer only) in
the Upper Engadine, to connect St. Moritz with the
Obere Alpina plateau, Pontresina with the Languard
Alp, and Tarasp with Vulpera ; whfle one is said to be
in progress between Lauterbrunnen and Miirren.
Swiss Alpine inns would not and could not have
developed so rapidly and flourished so exceedingly
had it not been for the splendid network of roads and
railways with which the country is covered in every
direction. Save the mule tracks through the Via

Swiss Roads

113

Mala (1473, bridges built 1788-39), and the Urner
Loch near Andermatt (pierced 1707),*' as wefl as that
over the Gemmi (constructed by Tyrolese workmen
1736-41) ,** all the great Alpine roads in Switzerland
have been constructed since 1800. In the following
summary I take the dates of construction from the
tables foUowing the account of the roads of each
canton given in Herr S. Bavier's elaborate work,
entitled ' Die Strassen der Schweiz ' (Zurich, 1878,
4to., 154 pages, many plates and diagrams), in one or
two cases reference being also made to pp. 48-54. The
heights are reduced from those of the great Siegfried
map : —

Date of construction

Highest point attained

Tear

Feet

1 Simplon

1800-5
1 Furka .
. 7,993
2 Susten .
,
1811
2 Fliiela .
. 7,891
3 Spliigen
,}
1818-23
3 Bernina
. 7,648
4 San Bernardinc
4 Albula .
. 7,589
5 Julier .
1820-26
5 Julier .
. 7,504
6 St. Gotthard
1820-30
6 Susten .
. 7,422
7 Maioja .
1827-40
7 Ofenberg
. 7,071
8 Bernina
1843-64
8 Spliigen
. 6,946
9 Albula .
1856-65
9 St. Gotthard .
. 6,942
10 Briinig.
1860-61
10 San Bernardino
. 6,769
11 Aienstrasse .
1860-64
11 Oberalp
. 6,733
12 Oberalp
1868-66
12 Simplon
. 6,634
13 Furka .
1863-67
13 Lukmanier .
. 6,290
14 Fliiela .
1867
14 Maioja .
. 5,942
15 Schyn .
1869
15 Briinig .
. 3,396
16 Ofenberg .
1871-72
16 Axenstrasse .
—
17 Lukmanier .
1871-77
17 Schyn .
. —
Of these the Simplon was by far the most expensive
to construct. Eleven of them are wholly or in part
within the canton of Graubiinden, the largest in the
Confederation. In 1861 the Federal Assembly voted
114 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
one and three-quarter mfllion francs for the construc
tion of three military Alpine roads (Furka, Oberalp,
Axenstrasse), and one million for the completion of
the great Graubiinden system of roads.

Such is an outline of the history of the increased
facilities for travellers in Switzerland afforded by iims,
railways, steamers, and carriage roads. This open
ing up of the country to others than rich ' mflords '
has of course produced a corresponding change in the
nature of the favourite guide-books. Speaking very/i
generally, we may say that whfle the earlier guide-books
paid special attention to man and man's works in
Switzerland, the later ones (from Ebel onwards) devote
themselves rather to pointing out the beauties of
nature, the latest giving short practical directions how
to see, eat, and drink the most in the shortest time
and at the smallest expense. Thus certain aspects of
the land and people which were formerly insisted on
have now dropped almost out of the sight and hearing
of the ordinary Swiss tourist, who thinks of the inns
and of the mountains, and pays little heed to the
political, social, or religious state of the Confederation.
In the history of Swiss guide-books which I have
tried to trace through the past two hundred years the
works of six men stand out most prominently, each
marking an epoch or turning-point in the development
of this kind of literary production. Wagner (1684) is
the antiquarian, whfle Euchat (1714) is the statesman
and politician. Ebel (1798) represents the longing

Sum-wary 115
after the primitive simplicity to be found in the moun
tain valleys, and the dawning admiration for the
more savage beauties of nature. Murray (1838) writes
for the leisurely cultured traveller whose mind is filled
with poetical and historical reminiscences. Badeker
(1844) is strictly practical and modern, whfle Ball
<1868) represents the advance in natural science as
well as the assault on the mysterious ice world. Yet
though there are so many Swiss guide-books of such
great though different degrees of merit, I venture to
I think there is room for two more, which might be
I roughly described as a revised Murray and a re-vised
] BaU. By the former I mean a work devoted to a de
scription of the past and present state of the country
as regards its political, religious, social, and economical
condition. By the latter I mean a book devoted exclu
sively to the ice and snow region, which would therein
he described in minute detail, the work thus serving as
a summary of past and a guide to future exploration.
In fact, I wish to see two more special subject guide
books, for I am convinced that the ideal guide-book is
not a general one in which many matters are touched
on briefly, but a book in many sections, each treating
fuUy of some one aspect of the country or people. If
it be objected to this suggestion that the proposed
guide-book would be too large for general use, I would
reply that it is not intended for those who try to ' do '
Switzerland as quickly and cheaply as possible, but
for the smaUer number who visit the country again
and again, and find on each visit something fresh and
dehghtful. By all means let the Swiss tourist have
I 2

ii6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
his concise and strictly practical guide-books, but let
the Swiss traveUer, to whom Switzerland is more
than a mere playground, have his guide-books too,
for he wishes to know the land and the people as they
were and as they are.
Doubtless there are many Swiss guide-books,
especially early ones, besides those which I have men
tioned in the foregoing pages. I would most gladly
receive any additional information or any corrections
of my statements which my readers may send to me.
I wfll only ask them to bear in mind that this is, so
far as I am aware, the first detafled and connected
attempt to trace out the history and development of
guide-books for traveUers in Switzerland. There are
plenty of lists and accounts of books of Swiss travel
which are the raw material out of which guide-books
are made, but the history of Swiss guide-books seems
to have attracted very httle attention. Indeed, save
for the assistance rendered me by a passing note of
Mr. D. W. Freshfield,*^ and by parts of the essay
by Prof. Osenbriiggen mentioned in note 1, and in
particular by a brief but most useful sketch in Herr
Peyer's book (pp. 159-68), I have had to work out
the history from the books themselves, and it is only
to be expected that in the first attempt to survey a
nearly unknown district there should be both errors
and omissions.

APPENDICES

APPENDIX A.
Reference List of the names of the principal Swiss
guide-books, with dates of the first known and
(if necessary) of the final edition.
I. Geneeal.
1684-1701 Wagner.
1714-1778 'Delices de la Suisse.'
1785 Eeichard.
1787-1796 Heidegger.
1788-1794 ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse ' (T. M.'s book
in French).
1790 ' Guide des Voyageurs en Suisse.'
1793-1843 Ebel.
1796 Heinzmann's 'Nachrichten.'
1810 H. M.'s 'Itinerahe Gdn^ral de la Suisse.'
1818 Glutz-Blotzheim (i.e. fusion of Heidegger and Ebel).
1818-1885 ' The Traveller's Guide through Switzerland.'
1820-1883 Mrs. Starke's ' Information and Directions.'
1824-1848 Eichard.
1888 MuBEAY. 1841 Joanne.
1844 Badeker. 1851 Von Escher.
1855 VonTschudi. 1862 Berlepsch.
1863 Ball.

ii8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
II. Local.
1. Bernese Oberland.
mi (1787) J. S. Wyttenbach. ' Instruction pour les
Voyageurs qui vont voir les Glaciers et les Alpes
du Canton de Berne ' (Berne, 28 pages, 8vo.).
1816 /. B. Wyss. ' Hand-Atlas fiir Eeisende in das
Berner Oberland ' (Bern, 84 pages, 8vo.).
1829 ' Taschenbuch fiir Eeisende im Berner Oberlande '
(published by Sauerlander of Aarau, 276 pages,
12mo.).
1888 ' Nouvelle Description de I'Oberland Bernois a
I'usage des Voyageurs ' (Berne, 40 pages, 8vo.).
2. Chamonix District.
1790 /. P, Berthout van Berchem. 'Itineraire de la
VaU^e de Chamonix ' (Lausanne, 289 pages,
12mo.).
1791-1808 M. T. Bourrit. 'Itmteire de Geneve, des
Glaciers de Chamouni, &c.' (Geneva, 12mo.).
1818 J. P. Pictet. ' Nouvel Itineraire des vaUdes autour
du Mont Blanc ' (Geneva, 272 pages, smaU 8vo. ;
second edition, 1829).
1821 F. J. M. ' Itineraire descriptif de la VaU^e de Sixt,
et de la Route qui y conduit ' (155 pages, 12mo.
Geneva).
1822 /. L. Manget. ' Description et Itineraire des bords
du lac de Geneve ' (smaU Svo. Geneva ; second
edition, 1825).
1829 J. L. Manget. ' Itineraire du voyage &, Chamouny,
autour du Mont Blanc, aux deux St. Bernhard,
autour du lac de Geneve, dans la valiee de Sixt,

Swiss Guide-Books 119
&c.' (16mo. Geneva; second edition, 1845).
This work appeared in German at Aarau in 1829
(small 16mo., 198 pages).
1840 J. L. Manget. ' Chamounix, le Mont Blanc, et les
deux S. Bernard ' (smaU Svo. Geneva). A sup
plement to this work, ' La Vallee de Sixt,' ap
peared in 1844 (small 8vo.).
1851 J. M. Gouttet. ' Chamonix, le Mont Blanc, Cour
mayeur et le Grand Saint Bernard ' (12mo.
Geneva).
1856 V. L. ' Souvenirs de Sixt : Itineraire complet de la
vaUee ' (12mo. Geneva).
1869 Venance Payot. ' Guide-Itineraire au Mont Blanc
et dans les vallees comprises entre les deux S.
Bernard et le lac de Geneve ' (12mo. Geneva).
1870 Charles Schaub et Moise Briquet. ' Guide Pra
tique de I'Ascensionniste sur les Montagnes qui
entourent le lac de Geneve ' (Svo. Geneva ; second
edition, 1879).
1885 Auguste Wagnon. ' Autour de Salvan. Excursions
et Escalades de la Dent du Midi au Buet ' (Svo.
Merges).
1886 Arthur de Glapar&de. ' Champery et le Val d'lUiez '
(Svo. Geneva). 3. Zermatt District.
1850 M. Ulrich. ' Die Seitenthaler des WaUis und der
Monte Eosa ' (Ziirich, 90 pages, Svo.).
1881 W. M. Conway. ' The Zermatt Pocket Book '
(London, 140 pages, 12mo.).
1886 F. 0. Wolf. 'Die Visperthaler ' m the 'Euro
paische Wanderbilder,' series (Ziirich, 146 pages,
Svo.).

I2Q

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

APPENDIX B.
List of ihe "principal works relating to the Alpine
regions of Switzerland and the adjacent dis
tricts, which ' have been published from the
fifteenth century to the beginnings of modern
Alpine literature.

[Guide-books, purely scientific works, and, with a few exceptions,
descriptions of special districts, are not included in this list. For
Additions see page xi.]

Index of Names of the Authors mentioned in the foUow
ing list, with references to the numbers prefixed to
their works.

Abney, 238
Adams, P. 0., 241
„ W.D., 215
Adams-Reilly, 217
Addison, 27
Affsprung, 59
Agassiz, 127, 154
' Alpine Journal,' ig6
Altmann, 37
'American Eesident,'225
Anderson, 179
Anonymous, 93, 106, 113,
209, 229, 231, 240
Atkins, 138
Auldjo, 117

Bainbridge, 171
BakeweU, 104
Balcus, 4
BaU, 184
Barnard, 148
Barrow, 198
Barry, 135
Bartlett, 136
Beattie, 136
Beaumont, 73
Berlepsch, 190
Btrmann, 67
Blackie, 231
Bonney, 204, 205, 213,
216, 220

Works on Switzerland

121

Bonstetten, Von, i
Bordier, 48
Bourrit, 49, 57, 78
Bridel, 64, 67
Brockedon, 119, 128
Brooks, 186
Brough, 239
Browne, 200
Briin, 74
BucknaU, 227
Burckhardt, 155
Burnaby, 235, 237
Burnet, 26
Biisching, 40
Butler, 233
Byron, Lord, 89
Cambray Digny, Count
T. de, 230
CappeUer, 45
Came, 130
CeUini, 7
Chateaubriand, 81
Cheever, 156
Clissold, IOI
Cockburn, 94
Cole, 185
Coleman, 186
Cordes, 219
Coryate, 17
Coxe, 55
Cunningham, 238, 241
Davy, 49
Deluc, 51, 53
Dent, 236

Dentan, 51
Desor, 153, 154
Devonshire, Duchess of,
88
Dixon, 214
Dowsing, 206
Dumas, 129
Ebel, 72
Engelhardt, 143, 164
Engelmann, 102
Evelyn, 20
Paber, 2
Pasi, 43
Pazy-Casal, 107
Fellows, 115
Fenzi, 230
Forbes, James D., 147,
166, 174, 217
,, John, 160
Freshfield, D. W., 199,
226 ,, Mrs. H., 191,
19s
Frobel, 144
Piiesslin, 46
Galton, 192
George, 202
Gesner, 9, 12
Girdlestone, 208
Glareanus, 5
Goethe, 54
Grote, 157
Gruner, 41, Additions, xi
GseU-Pels, 231

122

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

Haller, A. von, 33
E. von, 50
Hamel, 95, 96
Hawes, 116
Heathman, 173
Hegetschweiler, 109
Heinzmann, 70
Herrliberger, 38
Hinchliff, 182
Hirzel-Escher, 121
Hoffmann, 151
Hopfner, 181
Hudson, 177
Hugi, 123
Inghs, 142
Istria, D', 175
Joanne, 210
Jones, 201
Kasthofer, 99, 107
Kennedy, 177, 193
Keraho, Additions, xi
King, 183
Kircher, 23
Konig, 85
Kuhn, 63
Laborde, De, 52
' Ladies, Five,' 224
'Lady, A,' 189
Langle, 69
Lassels, 24
Latrobe, 141
Le Mesurier, 234
Leschevin, 82
Leu, 36

Longman, 178
Loriti, 5
Lory, 163
Lutz, 112
Lyddiard, 126
Macgregor, 137
Main, 235, 237
Martel, 34, 35
Martyn, 65
Mayer, De, 61
Meiners, 66
Meisner, 76, 97, 98, 108
' Member of the Uni
versity of Oxford,' 86
Merian, 19
Meyer, 83
Meyer von Knonau, 140
Miehelet, 215
Moore, 203
MiiUer, 6
Miinster, 10
Murray, 120
Noel, 159
Ober, 172 *
Oxley, 232
Paccard, 62
Parrot, 92
' Peaks, Passes, and
Glaciers,' 184, 193
Pfyffer, 39
Pictet, 75
Plantin, 22
Plunket, 223
Queensberry, Addits., xi

Works on Switzerland

123

Raoul-Rochette, 103, 1 1 1
Rebman, 16
Reiehard, 80
Rehgious Tract Society,
209
RheUicanus, 6
Rickman, 134
Robert, 68
Rohrdorf, 118
Rousseau, 42, 44
Ruskin, 180
Sahs, Von, 181
Saussure, De, 56
Sazerac, 102
Scheuchzer, 28, 29, 31,
32
SchiUer, 79
Schinz, 58
Schlagintweit, 168
Schmid, 2
Schott, 145, 146
Shairp, 217
SheUey, 91
Sherwfll, 114, 124
Simler, 14, 15
Simond, 100
Smith, Albert, 165
Spreeher, 18
Stanyan, 30
SteinmiiUer, 77, 181
Steger, 210
Stephen, 190, 211
Storr, 60
Studer, G., 152, 162

Stumpf, II
Tait, 217
Tflly, De, 133
Tissot, Additions, xi
Topffer, 125
Trench, 158
Trower, 178
Tscharner, C. von, 122
V. B., so
Tschudi, .SIgidius, 8, 13
„ P. von, 167
Tuckett, P. P., 219
„ L., 197
Tiirst, 3
TyndaU, 188, 194, 212
Ulrich, 161
Umlauft, 239
' Vacation Tourists,' 192
Venetz, iio,Additions,xi
ViUeneuve, 102
VioUet-le-Duc, 227
Viridet, 131, 132
Virtue, 240
Vogt, 149
Wagner, 25
Wake, 21
Walser, 47
Walton, 204, 207, 213,
216, 220
Welden, Von, 105
White, 169
Whymper, 210
Wilhams, C, 170
„ H. M., 71

t24 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Wills, 176, 187 Yosy, 87
Wflson, Schiitz, 228 Zefller, 19
Wuidham, 34, 35 Zincke, 218, 221, 222
Wyss, 90 Zschokke, 84, 139
Yates, 150 Zurlauben, De, 152
The dates given are those of publication, save in a few
instances specially indicated.
I 1478 Albert von Bonstetten (monk and dean of
Einsiedeln). Superioris Germanise Confoedera-
tionis urbium terrarumque situs, hominum mo-
rumque brevis descriptio (pubhshed in 1846 in
vol. iii. of the ' Mittheilungen der antiquarischen
Gesellschaft in Ziirich ').
2 1488-9 Felix Schmid or Faber (Dominican friar
of Ziirich, Basel, and Ulm). Descriptio Sveviss.
3 1495-7 Konrad Tiirst (physician of Ziirich). De
Situ Confoederatorum Descriptio.
4 1500-4 Balcus (of Mflan). Descriptio Helvetia.
(Nos. 2-4 are printed in vol. vi., 1884, of the
' Quellen zur Schweizer Geschiehte,' issued by the
' AUgemeine Geschichtforschende Gesellschaft
der Schweiz.' Tiirst and Balcus are there pub
lished for the first time ; an imperfect text of
Schmid was printed by Goldast in his ' Eerum
Svevicarum Scriptores ahquot veteres ' (1605 and
1727). A facsimile of Tiirst's map of Switzerland
(the earliest known) is annexed to the 1884 edition
of his book ; on it see 'Alpine Journal,' xi. 420,
xii. 182).
5 1515 Glareanus (Heinrich Loriti, of Glarus). De
scriptio de Situ Helvetiffl et vicinis gentibus.
Basel, 4to, (a Latin poem in hexameters, reprinted

Work's on Switzerland 125
with additions and notes in 1735 in the ' Thesaurus
HistorisB Helvetise ').
6 1537 /. Midler (named RheUicanus, from his native
viUage, Rhelhken, in the canton of Ziirich).
Stoekhornias. Basel, Svo. (appended to his Latin
translation of Plutarch's 'Life of Homer,' re
printed in Gesner's 1555 book and in Scheuchzer's
' Stoicheiographia,' 1716, pp. 246-257).
7 1537 Benvenitto Cellini. Vita di Benvenuto Celhni
(journey from Padua to Lyons, by Bernina and
Albifla Passes, Chur, WaUenstadt, Ziirich, Lau
sanne, and Geneva).
8 1538 .j^gidius Tschudi (of Glarus). Die vralt
warhafftig Alpisch Rhetia sampt dem Tract der
anderen Alpgebirgen. Basel, 4to. (also in Latin,
same year and place).
9 1541 Konrad Gesner (of Ziirich). Epistola ad
Jacobum Avienum de Montium Admiratione.
Ziirich, 16mo. (prefixed to Gesner's ' Libellus de
laote et operibus lactariis ').
10 1543 Sebastian Miinster (of Basel). Cosmogra-
phia Universalis (in German, 1544).
II 1546 Johannes Stumpf (of Ziirich). Gemeiner
lobhcher Eydgnoschaffc Stetten, Landen, und Volc-
keren Chronickwiirdiger Thaatenbeschreybung.
Ziirich, foho (2nd edition, 1586 ; 3rd, 1606. In
the latter edition — over 1,500 folio pages — the title
runs ' Schweytzer Chronick, das ist Beschreybunge
Gemeiner,' &c. The original narrative of Stumpf's
joumey through Switzerland in 1544 — a most in
teresting and curious document — is printed on pp.
233-303 of the volume in which Nos. 2-4 of this
list are published. Large extracts, together with
the reproduction of a small sketch-map of the

126 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Engstlen Alp-Hasli- Grimsel district, will be found
in the ' Jahrbuch des Schweizer. Alpenclub,' vol.
xix., 1883-4, pp. 427-57).
12 1555 Konrad Gesner. Descriptio Montis Practi
sive Montis Pilati. Ziirich, 4to. (pubhshed in
same volume as Gesner's tract ' De varus et admi-
randis Herbis,' Du Ghoul's ' Pilati Montis in Galha
descriptio,' and Ehellicanus's ' Stoekhornias ' ; re
printed in Scheuchzer's ' Stoicheiographia,' 1716,
pp. 225-45).
13 Before 1572 (date of his death) .^gidius Tschudi.
Haupt-Schliissel zu zerschidenen Alterthumen oder
Griindliche — theils Historische — theils Topogra-
phische Beschreibung von dem Ursprung, Land-
marchen, Alten Namen, und Mutter- Sprachen
GALLiiE CoMAT^ (published 1758 at Constanz, in
folio, by J. J. Gallati, of Glarus).
14 1574 JosmsSmfer (of Zurich). Vallesife Descriptio,
hbri u. ; De Alpibus Commentarius. Ziirich, Svo.
(reprinted by the Elzevirs in 1633).
15 1577 Josias Simler. De Helvetiorum Republic^.
Ziirich and Basel, Svo. (also in German).
16 1605 E. B. Bebman (of Muri). Ein Lustig unnd
Emsthafft Poetisoh Gastmal und Gesprach zweyer
Bergen, in der Loblichen Eydgnossschafft, und im
Berner Gebiet gelegen : Nemlich dess Niesens,
unnd Stockhorns, als zweyer alten Naehbawren.
Bern, Svo. (also in 1606 ; enlarged edition in 1620,
from which I copy the above title).
17 1611 T. Coryate. Coryat's Crudities hastily gobled
up in five moneths Travails in Prance, Savoy,
Italy, Rhetia, comonly called the Gryson's country :
Helvetia alias Switzerland, some parts of High
Germany, and the Netherlands ; newly digested in

Works on Switzerland 127
the hungry air of Odcombe in the County of
Somerset, and now dispersed to the nourishment
of the Travelling Members of this Kingdome.
London, 4to. (contains an account of his journey
over the Spliigen, to Chur, Ziirich, and Basel, in
1608 ; reprinted m 3 Svo. vols, m 1776).
18 1617 Forttmatus Spreeher von Bernegg. Pallas
Ehsetica armata et togata. Basel, 4to. (reprinted
by the Elzevirs in 1638).
19 1642 Matthew Merian and Martin ZeiUer. Topo
graphia Helvetise, Rhsetiae et Valesise. Frankfort,
folio (another edition in 1654).
20 1646 John Evelyn. Diary(passageof the Simplon).
21 1655 Isaac Wake. A Threefold Help to Pohticall
Observations, i. concerning the xiii. Cantons of
the HelveticaU League. London, Svo.
22 1656 J. B. Plantin (of Lausanne). Helvetia Anti-
qua et Nova. Bern, 12mo.
23 1665 A. Kircher. Mundus Subterraneus. Amster
dam, foho.
24 1670 B. Lassels. Voyage through Italy (2 parts).
London, Svo.
25 1680 J. J. Wagner. Historia Naturahs Helvetia
Curiosa. Ziirich, 12mo.
26 1686 Gilbert Burnet. Some Letters containing an
Account of what seemed most remarkable in
Switzerland, Italy, &c. London, Svo.
27 1705 J. Addison. Remarks on several parts of
Italy and Switzerland. London, Svo.
28 1706-8 /. J. Scheuchzer. Beschreibung der Natur-
geschichten des Schweitzerlandes. Ziirich, 3 vols.
4to.
29 1708 /. /. Schezichzer. Ovpi<ji<^oiTri<; Helveticus
sive Itinera Alpina Tria (1702-4). London, 4to.

128 Swiss Travel and Guidb-Books
30 1714 Abraham Stanyan. An account of Switzer
land. Written in the year 1714. London, Svo.
31 1716-18 /. /. Scheuchzer. Natur-Historie des
Schweitzerlandes. Ziirich, 4to. (originally issued
in three distinct parts : (1) Helvetiae Stoicheiogra
phia, Orographia et Oreographia, 1716 ; (2) Hydro-
graphia Helvetica, 1717 ; (3) Meteorologia et
Oryetographia Helvetica, 1718. These were in
1752 reissued in 3 vols. 4to., at Ziirich, under the
general title given above).
32 1723 /. J. Scheuchzer. Ovpiai^oLTiyi Helveticus
sive Itinera per Helvetise Alpinas Regiones facta
annis MDCCII ad MDCOXI. Leyden, 4 vols. 4to.
(vol. i. is a new edition of No. 29 ; a new edition,
enlarged and translated, of Nos. 28 and 32
appeared, under the editorship of J. G. Sulzer, in
4to., 1746, as J. J. Scheuchzer's 'Natur- Geschiehte
des Schweitzerlandes, samt sernen Reisen iiber die
Schweizerische Gebiirge ').
33 1732 A. von Haller. Die Alpen. Bern, 12mo.
(this famous poem appeared in the first edition of
HaUer's ' Gediehte ').
34 1741-42 \W. Windham and Pierre Martel.] Rela
tion d'un Voyage aux glacieres de Savoie en
I'annee 1741 par M. Windam, anglois : et Voyage
aux glacieres du Faucigny, 1742 (the original
French text was pubhshed in 1879 by M. Theo-
phile Dufour in the ' Echo des Alpes,' a hmited
tirage apart being struck off).
35 1744 [W. Windham and Peter Martel.] An account
of the Glacieebs or Ice Alps in Savoy. In two
letters, one from an English Gentleman to his
Friend at Geneva ; The other from Petbe Maetel,
Engineer, to the said English Gntleman [sic].

Works on Switzerland 129
London, 4to. pages ii — 28 (this is the English trans
lation — many additions and omissions — of No. 34.
Two copies are in the library of the Alpine Club).
36 1747-65 /. J. Le2i. AUgemeines Schweizerisches
Lexicon. Ziirich, 20 vols. 4to. (a supplement in 6
vols. 4to. was published by J. J. Holzhalb between
1786 and 1795).
37 1751 J. G. Altmann. Versuch einer Historischen
und Physischen Beschreibung der Helvetischen
Eisbergen. Ziirich, Svo.
38 1754-73 David Herrliberger. Neue und voUstan-
dige Topographie der Bydgnossenschaft in Kupfer
gestochen. Zurich, 3 vols. 4to. (a collection of
plates meant to supersede Merian).
39 1756 F. L. Pfyffer. Promenade au Mont Pilate
(an article in the ' Journal Etranger ' ; a revised
edition appeared in 1759 in the ' Journal Helve-
tique ').
40 1760 A. F. Biisching. Neue Erdbeschreibung.
8 vols. (Switzerland is described in vol. iv., which
appeared 1760).
41 1760 G. S. Gruner. Die Eisgebirge des Schweizer
landes. Bern, 3 vols. Svo. (revised edition pub
hshed in ' London ' (=Bem) in 1778, 2 vols. Svo.,
under the title of ' Reisen durch die merkwiirdig
sten Gegenden Helvetiens ').
42 1760 /. J. Bousseau. La Nouvelle Heloise.
43 1765-68 /. C. Fasi. Staats- und Erd-Beschreibung
der gauzen Helvetischen Eidgenossschaft, derselben
gemeinen Herrschaften und zugewandten Orten.
Ziirich, 4 vols. Svo.
44 1766-70 /. J. Bousseau. Confessions.
45 1767 M. A. CappeUer. Pilati Montis Historia.
Basel, 4to.

130 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
46 1770-72 J. C. Fiiesslin. Staats- und Erdbeschrei
bung der schweizerischen Eidgenossschaft. Schaff
hausen, 4 vols. Svo.
47 1770 G. Walser. Schweizer-Geographie, sammt
den Merkwiirdigkeiten in den Alpen und hohen
Bergen. Ziirich, Svo.
48 1773 [Andre Cdsar] B[ordier]. Voyage Pitoresque
[sic] aux Glacieres de Savoye. Fait en 1772.
Geneva, 12mo.*^
49 1773 Marc TModore Bourrit. Description des
Glacieres,Glaciers, et Amas de Glace du Duche de
Savoye. Geneva, Svo. (Enghsh translation by C.
and P. Davy, Norwich, 1775, and second edition,
1776 ; a third at Dubhn m 1776).
50 1775 [V. B. Tscharner and E. von Haller.] Dic
tionnaire geographique, historique et pohtique de
la Suisse. Neuchatel, 2 vols. Svo. (much enlarged
edition published in 1788, in 3 vols., at Geneva ; it
was revised by J. S. Wyttenbach).
51 1776 [J. A.] D[eluc] and [P. G.]D[entan]. ^A&iiQ^
de differents Voyages dans les Alpes du Faucigny.
Maestricht, 12mo. (mainly a reprint from Deluc's
' Eecherches sur les Modifications de 1' Atmosphere,'
1772, and a Memoir laid before the Royal Society
of London in 1773).
S2 1777-80 J. B. de Laborde and F. A. de Zurlauben.
Tableaux Topographiques, Pittoresques, Physiques,
Historiques, Moraux, Politiques, Litteraires, de la
Suisse. Paris, 2 vols. imp. folio, containing the 278
plates (on 216 sheets) and 2 in 4to. with the text
(later edition of the text issued at Paris in 12 vols.
4to., 1784-88).
S3 1778 J. A. Deluc. Lettres Physiques et Morales
sur les Montagnes. The Hague, Svo.

Works on Switzerland 131
54 1779 Goethe. Briefs aus der Schweiz aus dem
Jahre 1779 (pubhshed in 1808 in vol. h. of his
works. Goethe also visited Switzerland in 1775
and 1797).
55 1779 William Coxe. Sketches of the Natural,
Civil, and Political State of Swisserland. London,
Svo. ; 2nd issue in 1780 (the 2nd edition — 3 vols.
8vo, 1789— and the 3rd— 2 vols. 4to.,*1794— bore
the title of ' Travels in Switzerland/. The fourth
— 3 vols. Svo., 1801 — addud— Uufeffi- 'andT'in'the"
(Country of the GrisonsTTTJoxe's work is by far
"the besTdescfiption of Switzerland by a foreigner
written in the 18th century. It was translated
into German in 1781, and into French in 1782).
56 1779-96 H. B. de Saussure. Voyages dans les Alpes.
4 vols. 4to., vol. i., Neuchatel, 1779 ; vol. ii.,
Geneva, 1786 ; vols. iii. and iv., Neuchatel, 1796 ;
vols. i. and ii. were reprinted at Neuchatel in
1803-4 ; as to the Svo. edition, in 8 vols., 1780-96
etc., see note 41 below. (The ' Partie Pittoresque '
of the ' Voyages ' has been published separately at
Paris, in several editions, between 1884 and 1880.)
57 1781 M. T. Bourrit. Description des Alpes Pen-
nines et Ehetiennes. Geneva, 2 vols. 8vo. (new
edition in 1785 at Geneva in 8 vols. 8vo., under
title of ' Nouvelle Description Generale et Particu-
liere des Glacieres, Vallees de Glace et Glaciers qui
forment la grande chaine des Alpes de Suisse,
d'ltalie et de Savoye ').
58 1783-7 /. B. Schinz. Beytrage zur nahern Kennt-
niss des Schweitzerlandes. Ziirich, 5 vols. Svo.
(mainly relates to Tessin).
59 1784 J. M. Affsprung. Eeise durch einige Cantone
der Eidgenossenschaft.. Leipzig, Svo. K 2

132 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
60 1784-6 G. K. C. Storr. Alpenreise vom Jahre
1781. Leipzig, 2 vols. 4to.
61 1786 — de Mayer. Voyage en Suisse en 1784. Paris,
2 vols. Svo.
62 1786 Michel Paccard. Premier voyage fait a la
cime de la plus haute montagne du continent.
Lausanne (see M. Durier's ' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd
edition, p. 109, n.).
63 1787 F. Kuhn. Versuch einer Beschreibung des
Grindelwaldthales (Part i. — aU completed — in vol.
i. of Hopfner's ' Magazin fiir die Naturkunde
Helvetiens').
64 1787-98 P. Bridel. Melanges Helvetiques de 1782
a 1798. Lausanne, 3 vols. ISmo. (revised edition
of many narratives of Swiss wanderings originally
pubhshed in the '- Etrennes Helvetiques ').
65 1788 T[homas]M[artyn]. Sketch of a Tour through
Swisserland. London, 12mo.
66 1788-90 C. Meiners. Briefe iiber die Schweiz.
Berlin, 4 vols. Svo.
67 1789 Philippe Bridel. Course de Basle a Bienne
par les vallees du Jura. Bale, Svo. ; also same year
in German as ' Eeise durch eine der roman-
tischesten Gegenden der Schweitz, 1788 ' (this work
created a great interest in the picturesque scenes
of the Jura. It was reissued in oblong folio in
1802 under the title ' Voyage Pittoresque de Basle
h. Bienne,' with 36 fine plates by P. Birmann and
a revised text).
68 1790 — Bobert. Voyage dans les xui. Cantons
Suisses, les Grisons, le Vallais, et autres Pays et
Etats allies ou sujets des Suisses. Paris and Dijon,
2 vols. Svo.
69 1790 Marquis de Langle. Tableau pittoresque de

Works on Switzerland 133
la Suisse. Paris, 12mo. (it was translated into
English in 1800 as ' A Picturesque Description of
Switzerland ').
70 1797 /. G. Heinzmann. Kleine Schweizerreise im
August 1796. Basel, 32mo.
71 1798 Helen Maria Williams. A Tour in Switzer
land, or a View of the Present State of the Govern
ments and Manners of those Cantons. London, 2
vols. Svo.
72 1798-1802 J. G. Ebel. Schflderungen der Gebirgs
volker der Schweiz. Leipzig, 2 vols. Svo. (chiefly
devoted to Glarus and Appenzell).
73 1800 Albanis Beaumont. Travels through the
Lepontine Alps. London, folio (Great St. Bernard,
Simplon, and St. Gotthard).
74 1800 Frederika Briin. Tagebuch einer Eeise durch
die ostliche, siidliche und italienisehe Schweiz.
Copenhagen, Svo.
75 1800 or 1801 A. Pictet. Eelation d'un accident fatal
arrive a un voyageur sur le glacier de Buet (re
printed from No. 112 of the ' Biblioth^que Britan-
nique.' — M. E schen was kflled on August 7, 1800,
see ' Alpine Journal,' xiii. 179-182).
76 1801 F. Meisner. Alpenreise mit seinen Zoglingen.
Bern, Svo.
77 1802 J. B. SteinmiiUer. Beschreibung der schweiz,
Alpen- und Landwirthschaft in den Cantonen
Glarus und Appenzell. Winterthur, 2 vols. Svo.
78 1808 M. T. Bourrit. Description des Cols, ou Pas
sages des Alpes. Geneva, 2 vols. Svo. (in part a
reproduction of previous works by the same
author).
79 1804 /ScM^er. Wilhelm TeU (finished Feb. 20, first
performed on March 17. The descriptions are

134 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
based on the Scheuchzer of 1746 — see No. 32 of
this list — Fasi, the Ebel of 1798, and Meiners, for
Schiller himself never visited Switzerland, though
he learned much about it from his wife, Charlotte
von Lengefeld, who had made a tour through the
country just before she met Schfller for the first
time).
8o 1805 [Beichard.] Malerische Eeise durch einen
grosseii Thefl der Schweiz vor und nach der Eevo-
lution. Jena, Svo.
8 1 1805 F. A. de Chateaubriand. Voyage au Mont
Blan.T.
82 1812 P. X. Leschevin. Voyage a Geneve et a
la Vallee de Chamouni en Savoie. Paris and
Geneva, 12ino.
83 [1811] [/. B. and H. Meyer.] Eeise auf den
Jungfrau- Gletscher und Ersteigung seines Gipfels,
von Job. Eudolf Meyer und Hieronymus Meyer
aus Aarau im Augustmonat 1811 unternommen,
12mo., 82 pages (reprinted from 'MiszeUen fiir die
neueste Weltkunde.' First ascent of the Jungfrau).
84 1818 [H. Zschokke.] Reise auf die Eisgebirge des
Kantons Bern und Ersteigung ihrer hochsten
Gipfel im Sommer 1812. Aarau, Svo., with a map
(narrative of second ascent of the Jungfrau, com
piled by Zschokke after information given him by
Eudolf and Gottlieb Meyer).
85 1814 F. N. Konig. Eeise in die Alpen. Bern, Svo.
(relates to the Bernese Oberland only).
86 1814  Alpine Sketches, comprised in a Short
Tour through parts of Holland, Flanders, France,
Savoy, Switzerland, and Germany, during the
Summer of 1814. By a Member of the University
of Oxford. London, Svo.

IVoRKS ON Switzerland 135
87 1S15 A. Yosy. Switzerland, with Picturesque
Eepresentations of the Dress and Manners of the
Swiss. London, 2 vols, large square Svo. (50
coloured plates).
88 1S16 Duchess of Devonshire. Journey through
Switzerland. London, Svo.
89 1816 Lord Byron. Journal from September 18-25.
90 1816-17 J. B. Wyss. Eeise iu das Berner Ober
land. Bern, 2 vols. 8vo., with Atlas (French edi
tion in 2 vols., Berne, 1817).
91 1817 P. B. Shelley. History of a Six Weeks'
Tour.
92 1817 F. Parrot. Ueber die Schneegranze auf den
mittaglichen Seite des Eosagebirges und barome
trische Messungen (in ' Journal f. Chemie u. Physik,'
vol. 19, part 4).
93 1818  A Walk through Switzerland in Septem
ber 1816. London, Svo.
94 1820 Major Cockburn. Swiss Scenery. London,
royal Svo.
95 1820 J. Hamel. Eeisen auf den Montblane im
August 1820. Basel, 12mo. (translated from the
August number of the ' Bibliotheque Universelle '
of Geneva).
96 1821 /. Hamel. Beschreibung zweyer Eeisen auf
den Montblane unternommen im August 1820.
Vienna, Svo. (reprinted from the ' Conversations-
blatt ').
97 1821 F. Meisner. Eeise durch das Berner Ober
land nach Unterwalden. Bern, Svo. (2nd edition
1836).
98 1822 F. Meisner. Eeise durch Unterwalden, Uri
und Ursern iiber die Furca und Grimsel nach
Interlachen. Bern, Svo. (2nd edition 1837).

136 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
99 1822 K. Kasthofer. Bemerkungen auf einer Alpen-
Eeise iiber den Susten, Gotthard, Bernardin, und
iiber die Oberalp, Furka und Grimsel. Aarau, Svo.
100 '1822 L. Simond. Voyage en Suisse. Strasburg,
2 vols. Svo. (translated into English in 1823).
ho\ 1823 F. Clissold. Narrative of an Ascent to the
Summit of Mont Blanc. London, Svo.
102 1828-32 H. Sazerac and G. Engelmann. Lettres
sur la Suisse. Paris, 5 vols, folio (112 plates by
ViUeneuve).
103 1823 Des. Baoul-Bochette. Lettres sur la Suisse
ecrites en 1819-21. Paris, 2 vols. Svo.
104 1823 B. Bakewell. Travels, comprising observa
tions made during a residence in the Tarentaise, and
various parts of the Grecian and Pennine Alps,
and in Switzerland and Auvergne, in the years
1820, 1821, and 1822. London, 2 vols. Svo.
105 1824 L. von Welden. Der Monte-Rosa. Eine
topographische und naturhistorische SMzze, nebst
einem Anhange der von Herrn Zumstein gemach-
ten Reisen zur Ersteigung seiner Gipfel. Vienna,
Svo.
106 1824  Letters from an Absent Brother, con
taining some account of a Tour through parts of
the Netherlands, Switzerland, Northern Italy and
Prance, in the summer of 1828. London, 2 vols.
Svo.
107 1825 K. Kasthofer. Bemerkungen auf einer Alpen
reise iiber den Brunig, Bragel, Kirzenberg und iiber
die Fliiela, den Maloya und Spliigen. Bern, Svo.
(French translation by E. J. Pazy-Cazal pubhshed
in 1827 at Geneva and Paris as ' Voyage dans les
Petits Cantons et dans les Alpes Ehetiennes ').
108 1825 F. Meisner. Eeise von Bern iiber die Gemmi

Works on Switzerland 137
und den Simplon nach den Borromiiischen Inseln.
Bern, Svo.
109 1825 Joh. Hegetschweiler. Eeisen in den Gebirgs-
stock zwischen Glarus und Graubunden in den
Jahren 1819, 1820, und 1822. Ziirich, Svo.
no 1825 L. Venetz. Apologie des Travaux du Glacier
de Gietroz. Sion.
Ill 1826 Des. Baoul-Bochette. Voyage pittoresque
dans la Vallee de Chamonix et autour du Mont
Blanc. Paris, 4to.
112 1827-28 M. Lutz. VoUstandige Beschreibung des
Schweizerlandes. Aarau, 4 vols. Svo.
113 1827  A Tour to Great St. Bernard's and round
Mont Blanc. London, 12mo.
T14 1827 Markham Sherwill. Ascension du docteur
Edmund Clark et du capitaine Markham Sherwill,
k la Premiere Sommite du Mont Blanc les 25, 26 et
27 Aout, 1826. Paris and Geneva, Svo. (trans
lated from the English).
115 1827 Charles FeUows. A Narrative of an Ascent
to the Summit of Mont Blanc. London, 4to.
116 1S2S B. Hawes. Narrative of an Ascent to the
Summit of Mont Blanc, made during the Summer
of 1827 by Mr. W. Hawes and Mr. C. Fellows,
including a letter written by Mr. W. Hawes on the
top of Mont Blanc. Privately printed, 4to.
117 1828 John Auldjo. Narrative of an Ascent to the
Summit of Mont Blanc on the eighth and ninth of
August 1827. London, folio (2nd edition in Svo.
1830).
118 1828 Caspar Bohr dor f. Reise iiber die Grindelwald-
Viescher-Gletscher, auf den Jungfrau-Gletscher,
und Ersteigung des Gletsohers des Jungfrau-
Berges. Bern, Svo.

138 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
119 [1828-29] WiUiam Brockedon. Illustrations of the
Passes of the Alps by which Italy communicates
with Prance, Switzerland, and Germany. London,
2 vols. 4to.
120 1829 John Murray. A Glance at some of the
Beauties and Sublimities of Switzerland : with
excursive Remarks on the various objects of interest,
presented during a tour through its picturesque
scenery. London, 12mo.
121 1829 Hirzel-Escher. Wanderungen in weniger
besuchte Alpengegenden der Schweiz und ihrer
>nachsten Umgebungen. Ziirich, 12mo.
1S29-1881 [G. von Tscharner.] Wanderungen
durch die Ehatischen Alpen. Ziirich, 2 vols. Svo.
123 1830 F. J. Hugi. Naturhistorische Alpenreise
Solothurn, Svo.
124 1882 Markham Sherwill. Historical Sketch of the
Valley of Chamouni. Paris.
125 1832 B. Tojjffer. Excursions dans les Alpes
(this was the first of the ten small lithographed
accounts of Topffer's journeys which were pub
hshed up to 1848. A collected edition was issued
later, under the title of ' Voyages en Zigzag.' A
copy of the 3rd — 1850 — edition in my possession
contains the journeys from 1837 to 1842, both
inclusive).
126 1832 W. Lyddiard. Three Months' Tour in
Switzerland and Prance, with a Eoute to
Chamouni, the Bernese Alps, etc. London, Svo.
127 1883 L. Agassiz. A Journey to Switzerland and
Pedestrian Tours in that country ; including a
¦ sketch of its history, and of the manners and cus
toms of its inhabitants. London, Svo.
128 1S33 William Brockedon. Journals of Excursions

Works on Switzerland 139.
in the Alps : the Pennine, Graian, Cottian,
EhaBtian, Lepontian, and Bernese. London, Svo.
(3rd edition in 1845).
[29 1838 or 1884 Alexandre Dumas. Impressions de
Voyage — Suisse. Paris, folio.
[30 1884 /. Carne. Letters from Switzerland and
Italy, during a late Tour. London, Svo.
[31 1835 Marc Viridet. Viege, Saint-Nicolas et Saas,
ou Eecherches sur la Geographie, sur les Moeurs,
et sur I'Histoire Civile, Eociesiastique, Physique et
Naturelle des Vallees de Saas et de Saint-Nicolas,
en Valais. Geneva, 12mo. (Part i. only published.)
132 1885 Marc Viridet. Passage du Eoth-horn, Mon
tagne de la Vallee de Saas, en Valais. 2nd
edition. Geneva, 12mo. (1st edition of 80 copies
in 1833 in the ' Etudiant Genevois ').
133 1835 Comte Henri de Tilly. Ascensions aux
cimes de I'Etna et du Mont Blanc. Geneva, Svo.
134 1835 [E. S. Bickman.] The Diary of a Solitaire ;
or sketch of a Pedestrian Excursion through part
of Switzerland. London, 4to.
135 1886 Martin Barry. Ascent to the Summit of
Mont Blanc in 1834. London, Svo.
136 1836 W. Beattie. Switzerland illustrated in a series
of Views by W. .H. Bartlett. London, 2 vols. 4to.
137 1837 John Macgregor. My Notebook. Frankfort
on the Main, 16mo.
138 1838 [H.M. Atkins.] Ascent to the Summit of
Mont Blanc on the 22nd and 23rd of August, 1887.
Not published. London, Svo. Tvi^/^v, jt>->-^v.-C
139 1838 H. Zschokke. Vues Classiques de la Suisse.
Carlsruhe, 2 vols. (8rd edition in German by Got-
zinger at Stuttgart and Leipzig, 1871, in 4to.).
140 1888 G. Meyer von Knonau. Erdkmide der

I40 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Schweizerischen Eidsgenossenschaft ; 2nd edition.
Ziirich, 2 vols. Svo. (the first edition — 1824 — was a
^j.2mere sketch).
141 -i^g- G. J. Latrobe. The Alpenstock ; or Sketches of
Swiss Scenery and Manners, 1825-26. London, Svo.
142 1840 H. D. Inglis. Switzerland, the South of
Prance, and the Pyrenees. London, large Svo.
143 1840 G. M. Engelhardt. Naturschilderungen, Sit-
tenziige und wissenschaftliche Bemerkungen aus
den hochsten Schweizer-Alpen, besonders in Siid-
Wallis und Graubunden. Paris, Strasburg, and
Basel, Svo.
144 1840 J. Frobel. Eeise in die weniger bekannte
Thaler auf der Nordseite der Pemiinischen Alpen.
Berlin, Svo.
145 1840 A. Schott. Die Deutschen am Monte-Rosa,
mit ihren Stammgenossen im Walhs und Uecht-
land. Ziirich, 4to.
146 1842 A. Schott. Die Deutschen Colonien hi Pie
mont, ihr Land, ihre Mundart und Herkunft : ein
Beitrag zur Geschiehte der Alpen. Stuttgart and
Tiibingen, 1842, Svo.
147 1843 /. D. Forbes. Travels in the Alps of Savoy
and other parts of the Pennine Chain. Edinburgh
and London, large Svo. (2nd edition in 1845).
148 1843 G. Barnard. Switzerland : Scene^nd Inci
dents of Travel in the Bernese Oberlanof 26 beau
tifully lithographed Plates. London, royal foho.
149 1843 G. Vogt. Im Gebirg und auf den Gletschem.
Solothurn, Svo.
150 1843 A. Yates. Letters written during a Journey
to Switzerland. London, 2 vols. Svo.
151 1843 G. H[offmann]. Wanderungen in der Glet-
scherwelt. Ziirich, Svo. (relates to Uri).

Works on Switzerland 141
152 1844 G. Studer. Topographische Mittheilungen aus
dem Alpengebirge. I. Die Eiswiisten und selten
betretenen Hochalpenund Bergspitzen des Kantons
Bern und angrenzender Gegenden. With an
Atlas. 2nd edition, Bern and St. Gallen, Svo.
(no other parts issued).
153 1844 E. Desor. Excursions et Sejours dans les
Glaciers et les Hautes Eegions des Alpes, de M.
Agassiz et de ses compagnons de voyage. Neu
chatel and Paris, Svo.
154 1845 E. Desor. Nouvelles Excursions et Sejours
dans les Glaciers et les Hautes Eegions des Alpes,
de M. Agassiz et de ses compagnons de voyage.
Accompagnees d'une notice sur les glaciers de
I'AUee Blanche et du Val-Perret par M. Agassiz,
et d'un aper^u sur la structure geologique des Alpes,
par M. B. Studer. Neuchatel and Paris. Svo.
15s 1846 J. B. Burckhardt. Untersuchungen iiber die
erste Bevolkerung des Alpengebirgs, insbesondere
der schweizerischen Urkantone, des Berner Ober-
landes und des Oberwalhs (most important article
of 116 pages printed in vol. iv. of ' Archiv fiir
Schweizerische Geschiehte.' Ziirich, Svo.).
156 [1846] G. B. Cheever. The Pilgrim in the Shadow
of the Jungfrau Aln. London and Glasgow, Svo.
(editions from 1S4\ onwards are entitled ' Wander
ings of a Pilgrim m the Shadow of Mont Blanc and
the Jungfrau Alp ').
157 1847 G. Grote. Seven Letters concerning the
Pohtics of Switzerland pending the outbreak of
the Civil War in 1847. London, Svo. (originally
letters to the Spectator ; new edition in 1876).
158 1847 F. Trench. A Walk round Mont Blanc.
London, Svo.

142 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
159 1848 Baptist W. Noel. Notes of a Tour in Switzer
land, in the Summer of 1847. London, Svo.
160 1849 John Forbes. A Physician's Holiday, or a
Month in Switzerland in the Summer of 1848.
London, Svo. (2nd edition in 1850).
161 1850 Melchior Uh-ich. Die Seitenthaler des Wallis
und der Monte Eosa topographisch geschildert.
Ziirich, Svo. (revised and enlarged edition of two
lectures delivered before the Natural History So
ciety of Ziirich, and printed in its ' Mittheilungen ').
162 1850 G. Studer. Das Panorama von Bern : Schfl-
derung der in Berns Umgebungen sichtbaren
Gebirge. Bern, Svo.
163 1852 G. Loi-y. Voyage Pittoresque de I'Oberland
Bernois. 30 coloured plates. Paris, foho.
164 1852 C. M. Engelhardt. Das Monte-Rosa- und
Matterhorn- [Mont Cervin] -Gebirg aus der Inseite
seines Erhebungsbogens gen Nord ; seine Aus-
laufer und Umgrenzung, besonders der Saasgrat
mit dem Misehabeldom fiber dem Gletseherkrater
von Fee. Paris and Strasburg, Svo.
165 1853 Albert Smith. The Story of Mont Blanc.
London, Svo. (there is a privately printed edition
of 1852).
166 1853 J. D. Forbes. Norway and its Glaciers
visited in 1851 ; followed by Journals of Excur
sions in the High Alps of Dauphine, Berne, and
Savoy. London, large Svo. (includes ascent of
Jmigfrau and passage of Col du Tour).
167 1858 F. von Tschudi. Das Thierleben der Alpen
welt. Leipzig, Svo. (an English translation of
selections from this work was published in London
in 1856, 8vo., under thetitle ' Sketches of Nature
in the Alps ').

Works on Switzerland 143
168 1854 A. and H. Schlagintweit. Neue Untersuchun
gen iiber die physikalische Geographie und die
Geologie der Alpen. Leipzig, 1854, 4to. (contains
an account of an attempt on Monte Eosa in 1851,
and of other Alpine expeditions).
169 1854 Walter White. To Mont Blanc and Back
Again. London, Svo.
170 1854 Charles Williams. The Alps, Switzerland,
and the North of Italy. London, imp. Svo.
171 1S54 [W. Bainbridge.] Alpine Lyrics. London,
Svo.
172 1S54 P. Ober. L'Oberland Bernois sous les
Eapports Historique, Scientifique et Topogra
phique. Journal d'un Voyageur. Bern, 2 vols. Svo.
173 1855 W. G. Heathman. Switzerland in 1854-55.
London, Svo.
174 1855 J.D.Forbes. The Tour of Mont Blanc and of
Monte Rosa — being a Personal Narrative abridged
from the author's ' Travels in the Alps of Savoy.'
London, Svo.
175 1856 Gomtesse Dora d'Istria. La Suisse Alle
mande et I'Aseension du Moeneh. Paris and
Geneva, 4 vols. Svo.
176 1856 A.Wills. Wanderings among the High Alps.
London, Svo.
177 1856 G. Hudson and E. S. Kennedy. Where
there's a Will there's a Way : an Ascent of Mont
Blanc by a New Eoute and Without Guides.
London, Svo. (in the second edition, also issued
in 1856, there were added narratives of Mr.
Kennedy's attempt on Monte Eosa in 1854 and of
the successful ascent in 1855 by Mr. Hudson and
party).
178 1856 W. L[ongnian]and H. T[rower]. Journal of

144 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Six Weeks' Adventures in Switzerland, Piedmont,
and on the Italian Lakes — June, July, August,
1856. London, Svo.
179 1856 Eustace Anderson. Chamouni and Mont
Blanc : a Visit to the VaUey and an Ascent of the
Mountain in the autumn of 1855. London, Svo.
180 1856 John Buskin. Modern Painters. Vol. iv.
London, 4to. (this volume contains the famous
chapter on Mountain Beauty).
181 To these we may add two periodicals, Albrecht
Hopfner's ' Magazin fiir die Naturkunde Helvetiens'
(Ziirich, 4 vols. Svo. 1787-89), and Von Sahs and
Steinmiiller's ' Alpina ' (Winterthur, 4 vols. Svo.
1806-9), a continuation of the latter (Winterthur,
2 vols. Svo. 1821-27) being issued under the title
of ' Neue Alpina ' by SteinmiiUer alone.

Supplementary List of some of the principal works
relating to the Alps, published in English since
1856.
182 1857 T. W. Hinchliff. Summer Months among
the Alps : with the ascent of Monte Rosa.
London, Svo. jS>^ vw/,^-- .i
183 1858 S.W.King. The ItalianValleys of the Pennine
Alps : a Tour through aU the romantic and less-
frequented ' Vals ' of Northern Piedmont, from the
Tarentaise to the Gries. London, Svo.
184 1859  Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers. A Series
of Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club.

Works on Switzerland 145
Edited by John Ball. London, Svo. (Knapsack
edition. London, Svo. 1860.)
t8s 1859 [Mrs. H. W. Cole.] A Lady's Tour round
Monte Rosa ; with visits to the Italian valleys of
Anzasca, Mastalone, Camasco, Sesia, Lys, Chal-
lant, Aosta, and Cogne. In a series of Excursions
in the years 1850-56-58. London, Svo. X<,\.< ».vr„iS
186 1859 E.T. Coleman. Scenes from the Snow Fields :
being Illustrations from the Upper Ice-World of
Mont Blanc. Twelve Lithographs by Vincent
Brooks. London, folio.
187 1860 A. Wills. ' The Eagle's Nest' in the Valley
of Sixt ; a Summer Home among the Alps : to
gether with some Excursions among the Great
Glaciers. London, Svo.
188 1860 J. TyndaU. The Glaciers of the Alps. Being
a Narrative of Excursions and Ascents, an Account
of the Origin and Phenomena of Glaciers, and an
Exposition of the Physical Principles to which
they are related. London, Svo. ^4^... JAi^-^^j
189 1860 ' A Lady.' The Cottages of the Alps: or Life
and Manners in Switzerland. London, 2 vols. Svo.
190 1861 H. A. Berlepsch. The Alps, or Sketches of
Life and Nature in the Mountains. Translated by
Leslie Stephen. London, Svo. (translation of
' Die Alpen in Natur- und Lebensbfldern ').
191 1861 [Mrs. Henry Freshfield.] Alpine Byways, or
Light Leaves gathered in 1859 and 1860. London ,
Svo.
192 1861  Vacation Tourists and Notes of Travel
in 1860. Edited by Francis Galton. Cambridge
and London, Svo. (has papers on the Grand Paradis
and Mont Iseran, AUalinhorn, first attempt on the
Matterhorn from Italy, Lawinenthor).

146 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
193 1862 [  ] Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers ; being
Excursions by the Members of the Alpine Club.
Second series. Edited by E. S. Kennedy. London,
2 vols. Svo.
194 1862 J Tyndall. Mountaineering in 1861. A Vaca
tion Tour. London, Svo.
195 1862 Mrs. Henry Freshfield. A Summer Tour in
the Grisons and Itahan VaUeys of the Bernina.
London, Svo.
196 1863  The Alpine Journal: a Record of
,r Mountain Adventure and Scientific Information.
By Members of the Alpine Club. London, Svo.
(first number appeared in March 1868 ; current
number, No. 104, in May 1889).
197 1864 [Miss L. Tuckett.] How we spent the
Summer^: or^ a Voyage en zigzag. London,
oblong ^to'.'*(i6urttf%aftion in 1871).
198 1864 John Barr oiv. Expeditions on the Glaciers.
London, Svo.
199 1865 D. W. Freshfield. Across Country from Thonon
to Trent : Rambles and Scrambles in Switzerland
and the Tyrol. London, Svo.
200 1865 G. P. Browne. Ice-Caves of Prance and
Switzerland. A Narrative of Subterranean Ex
ploration. London, Svo.
201 1865 Harry Jones. The Regular Swiss Round, in
Three Trips. London, 12mo.
202 1866 H.B.George. The Oberland and its Glaciers :
Explored and Illustrated with Ice- Axe and Camera.
London, 4to.
203 1867 A. W. Moore. The Alps in 1864. A Private
Journal. Svo. (privately printed).
204 1867 Elijah Walton. The Peaks and VaUeys of
the Alps ; with descriptive text by T. G. Bonney.
London, folio.

IVORKS UN CiWlTZERL.4ND 1 47
205 1868 T. G. Bonney. The Alpine Regions of
Switzerland and the Neighbouring Countries ; a
Pedestrian's Notes on their Physical Features,
Scenery, and Natural History. London, Svo.
206 1869 W. Doivsing. Rambles in Switzerland. Kings-
ton-upon-HuU and London, Svo.
207 1869 Elijah Walton. Clouds and their Combina
tions. London, folio.
208 1870 A. G. Girdlestone. The High Alps Without
Guides : being a Narrative of Adventures in
Switzerland, together with Chapters on the Practi
cability of such Mode of Mountaineering, and
Suggestions for its Accomplishment. London,
Svo.
209 About 1870  Swiss Pictures drawn with
Pen and Pencil. Religious Tract Society.
210 1871 E. Whymper. Scrambles amongst the Alps
¦ in the Years 1860-69. London, Svo. (certain
chapters of this work, revised, and accompanied by
additional engravings, appeared in 1880 under the
title ' The Ascent of the Matterhorn.' London,
Svo. The original work was issued in a German
translation by P. Steger at Brunswick in 1872 in
Svo., and in a French one by Adolphe Joanne
in 1875 at Paris in large Svo.).
211 1871 Leslie Stephen. The Playground of Europe.
London, Svo.
212 1871 /. Tyndall. Hours of Exercise in the Alps.
London, Svo.
213 1872 ¦ Elijah Walton. Peaks in Pen and Pencil for
Students of Alpine Scenery. Edited by T. G.
Bonney. London, foho.
214 1872 W. Hepworth Dixon. The Switzers. London,
2 vols. Svo. L 2

148 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
215 1872 J. Miehelet. The Mountain. Translated by
W. Davenport Adams. London, Svo.
216 1873 Elijah Walton. Vignettes, Alpine and Eas
tern. With text by T. G. Bonney. London, foho.
217 1873 /. G. Shairp, P. G. Tait, and A . Adams-Beilly .
Life and Letters of J. D. Forbes. London, Svo.
218 1878 F. Barham Zincke. A Month in Switzerland.
London, Svo.
219 1873-74 F.F. Tuckett. Hochalpenstudien. Leipzig,
2 vols. Svo. (a very useful collection of Mr.
Tuckett's Alpine articles, translated into German
by August Cordes, and containing aU the sketches,
maps, and panoramas).
2^0 1874 Elijah Walton. The Bernese Oberland.
With text by T. G. Bonney. London, foho.
221 1874 F. Barham Zincke. Swiss AUmends and a
Walk to see them, being a Second Month in Swit
zerland. London, Svo.
222 1S75 F. Barham Zincke. A Walk in the Grisons.
London, Svo.
223 1875 Hon. Frederica Plunket. Here and There
among the Alps. London, Svo.
224 1875 ' Five Ladies.' Swiss Notes. Leeds, Svo.
225 1875  Switzerland and the Swiss. Sketches
of the Country and its Famous Men by an
,y Amsrican Resident. Zurich, Svo.
226 1^t6 D. W. Freshfield. Italian Alps. Sketches in
the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino
and Venetia. London, Svo. J^<^yno^i
227 1877 E. Viollet le Due. Mont Blanc. Translated
by R. BucknaU. London, Svo.
228 1878 H. Schiitz Wilson. Alpine Ascents and Adven
tures ; or Eodk and Snow Sketches. London, Svo.
(collected edition of the author's Alpine articles).

Works on Switzerland 149
229  Alpine Adventure. London, Svo. (revised
edition in 1881, under the title of ' Alpine
Climbing ').
230 1879 Count T. de Cambray Digny. Mont Blanc.
Itahan Ode, translated into English verse by an
Itahan Alpinist (S. Fenzi), and dedicated to the
members of the British Alpine Club. Florence, Svo.
231 1881  Switzerland : its Scenery and People
pictoriaUy represented, with Historical and De
scriptive Text based on the German of Dr. GseU-
Pels. Blackie : London, 4to.
232 1881 T. L. Oxley. Jacques Balmat, or the First
^ Ascent of Mont Blanc. London, Svo.
^^233 1882 S.Butler. Alps and Sanctuaries of Piedmont
and the Canton Ticino". London, Svo.
234 1882 W. H. Le Mesurier. An Impromptu Ascent
of Mont Blanc. London, Svo.
235 1883 Mrs. Fred. Burnaby. The High Alps in
Winter ; or Mountaineering in search of Health.
London, Svo.
236 1885 C. T. Dent. Above the Snow Lme. Moun
taineering Sketches between 1870 and 1880.
London, Svo. __^.^»^.^4
237 1886 Mrs. Main (Mrs. F. Burnaby). High Life
and Towers of Silence. London, Svo.
238 1887 C. D. Cunningham and W. d^.W. Abney. r
The Pioneers of the Alps. 4to. . (2iS"edition, 1888).
«. 239 1889 F. Umlauft. The Alps. translated by
Louisa Brough. London, large Svo.
240 1889 •  Switzerland, its Mountains, Valleys,
Lakes, and Rivers, with 250 Illustrations. Virtue :
new edition (? date of old one). London, 4to.
241 1889 F. 0. Adams and C. D. Cunningham. The
Swiss Confederation. London, Svo.

150 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

APPENDIX C.
List of Moitntain Inns in Switzerland and the
adjacent districts, with the dates at which they
were built or opened.
Before 812 Great St. Bernard, ^s
10th or llth century Little St. Bernard.''
Before 1235 Simplon.^"
Before 1881 St. Gotthard.^'
Between 1362 and 1886 Pfaffers.'^
Before 1479 Geimsbl.'^
1501 Leukerbad.9*
Between 1765 and 1772 Chamonix.'^
1767 Chapiu.36
About 1771 Eosenlaui.^''
By 1776 Schwarenbach.'^
By 1779 Kandersteg.^'
By 1781 Geindelwald.!"" Motets.'"'
By 1784 Lautbebeunnen.'"^
By 1785 Trient.'os
1795 MONTENVEES.'""
By 1804 Afl'Acqua.ios
1806 St. Gervais.i»«
Before 1811 Sixt.'"
1816 Rigi Kulm.i°8
1818 Pavilion BeUevue (Col de Voza).""
1822-23 Faulhorn.""

Swiss Inns 151

Between 1825 and 1833 Saas.'"
1826 Weissenstein."2
By 1S29 Col de Balme."^
1880 Stachelberg."*
1882 St. Moritz.'"
1833 Giessbach."6
1834-35 Eeichenbach."^
By 1835 Stalden."8
By 1838 (1st edition of Murray)
Kleine Scheidegg.
Wengern Alp.
Grosse Scheidegg.'^"
Handegg.'2'
Rhone Glacier.'^^
Nant Bourrant.'^^
1839 Zeematt.'2'4
By 1840 Brienzer Rothhorn.'^s
By 1841 Stem Alp.'^s
By 1843 Viesch (Hotel du Glacier).'^^
By 1846 Comballaz.'^s
By 1848 Cantme de Proz.'^'
1849 St. Niklaus.'so
By 1851 Piegere.'^i
1851 Tete Noire.'^^
1852 Purka.'33
By 1854 Engelberg.'34 Macugnaga (Lochmatter's).''^
Maioja.''^ Pontresina. "''
1854 Riffelhaus.'^'
St. Theodule.'39
By 1855 Courmayeur (Bertolini's).'''"
1855 Gressoney (DelaPierre's).'"
Val Tournanche.'**

152 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1856 Eggischhoen.'^' Brefl.'** Engstlen Alp.'-i^
Mattmark.''"'
1856-57 Champery.'*^
1857 Aosta (H. du Mont Blanc).'*'
Miirren.''"Niesen.'^"
1857-58 Mont Prety.'s'
1858 Evolena.'52 Ormonts Dessus (H. des Diablerets).
1858-59 Pilatus.
By 1859 Seehsberg.
Traehsellauinen.
1859 Zinal.'ss
1860 Belalp.
Randa.'s* St. Luc.
About 1860 Hotel Wetterhom.'^s
By 1861 Eieder Alp.
1861 Gruben.'««
By 1862-63 Pavilion de Treiatete.'"
About 1862 Pierre Pointue.'^'
By 1868 Prohn Alp.
1863 Scheinige Platte.'«'
Mauvoisin (H. Getroz).
By 1864 Barenegg.''^"
1864 Tosa Falls.
1865 Waldibalm (Maderanerthal).'«'
About 1865 Beatenberg.'«2
1865-66 AroUa.'ss
1867 Monte Generoso.'"
1867 Monte Prosa (St. Gotthard).'«5
Waldspitz.'«'5

Swiss Inns 153
1868 Alpiglen.'"Santis.'ss
About 1868 Davos.'S' Fiery."""
1868-69 Ried.'"
Between 1870 and 1872 Mannlichen.'^-
By 1871 Axenstein.
Gross Mythen.
By 1874 Triibsee.
1875-76 Perpecle.'73
1878 Col d'OUen.'^*
By 1879 Vissoie.'^s
By 1880 Alpe di Vegha.'^s
Melchsee. Val Piora.
1880 Pavfllon de I'Ognan.'"
By 1881 Alpe Devero.'"
1882 Pee.'^'
1883 Bmn.'8"
Bignasco (H. du Glacier).'"
1884 Riffel Alp.
Monte Motterone.
By 1887 Sanetsch
Schwarzsee.
1888 Prarayen.
Supplementary List of the early Huts built at great
heights.
1779 Blah's cabin.''*
1785 Bourrit's cabane at the foot of the Aiguille du
Gouter.'"^
1786 De Saussure's hut on the rocks of the Grands
Mulcts."*

154 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1788 De Saussure's hut on the Col du Geant."'
1829 Hugi'shut."6
1840 Hotel des Neuchatelois.'"
1843 PaviUon DoUfus."'
1853 Grands Mulets."^
1854 Guichard's cabane at the foot of the AiguiUe du
Gouter.'S"
1858 AiguiUe du Gouter.'^'
1863 AiguiUe du Midi.'^*
1863-64 Griinhorn Hiitte (Todi).'^^
1864 Trift Hiitte (Gadmenthal).'^*
1865 Paulberg.'9«
1867 Itahan hut on the Matterhorn. 's«
1868 Swiss hut on the Matterhorn.'"
1869 Bergh Hiitte.'^'
1870 Gleckstem or Weisshorn Hiitte.'^^
1875 Stockje Hiitte.*""
1877 Schwarzegg Hiitte.*"'

/rs-

NOTES

1 1 may mention here a few general works which have been
specially useful to me. I need hardly say that I am deeply
indebted to Herr Bernhard Studer's ' Geschiehte derphysischen
Geographie der Schweiz bis 1815' (Bern and Ziirich, 1863), a
marvellous and admirably arranged storehouse of facts. It is
as indispensable to any one interested in the early explorations
of Switzerland as a whole, as the work of his cousin, Herr Gott
lieb Studer, ' Ueber Eis und Schnee ' (4 vols. Bern, 1869-83),
is to any one iavestigatuig the history of the snow and ice region
of Switzerland. For bibliographical details the first volume of
the great work of G. E. von Haller (the son of the famous poet
and naturalist), ' Bibliothek der Sohweizer-Geschichte ' (Bern
1785), has been of immense service to me, as it was also to
Herr B. Studer. I have frequently consulted Herr G. Peyer's
' Geschiehte des Eeisens in der Schweiz ' (Basel, 1885), which
has supplied me with many valuable facts and hints (see the
review of this book in ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xii. p. 350). Those
of my readers who desire information as to the history of the
passion for Swiss travel may be referred to the following books.
I wouldname first of all Mr. Leslie Stephen's two dehghtful papers
(now 'Alpine classics') on the 'Love of Mountain Scenery,'
which are reprinted, from a magazine, in chap. i. of his ' Play
ground of Europe ' (London, 1871). Dr. Bernhard Schwarz,in his
elaborate work entitled ' Die Erschliessung der Gebirge ' (Leipzig,
1885), traces the history in detail down to De Saussure's ascent
of Mont Blanc in 1787 (see the review of the book in ' Alpine

iS6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Journal,' vol. xiii. pp. 41-44). Two German pamphlets give in
teresting but sketchy summaries of the history down to quite
modern times — LudwigFriedlander's ' Ueber dieEntstehung und
Entwiekelung des Gefiihls fiir das Eomantische in der Natur '
(Leipzig, 1873 ; reprinted with some additions in the same
writer's ' Darstellungen aus der Sittengesohichte Roms,' vol. ii.
pp. 206-59), and Jacob Frey's ' Die Alpen im Lichte verschie-
dener Zeitalter ' (BerUn, 1877 ; No. 274 of Virchow and Holtzen-
dorfC's ' Sammlung gemeinverstandlicher wissenschafthcher Vor-
trage '). Professor Eduard Osenbrliggen's essay, 'Die Entvsdcke-
lungsgeschichte des Schweizreisens ' (chap. i. of vol. i. of his
' Wanderstudiea aus der Schweiz,' pu'olished at Schaffhausen,
sine dato sed 1867), should perhaps be classed with these works,
though now and then it makes a feeble effort, amidst many
blunders, to trace out the history of Swiss guide-books.
2 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. p. 485.
3 A. de Glaparede, ' Champery et le Val d'lUiez,' p. 26.
4 The dates usuaUy assigned for the foundation of the hospice
by St. Bernard of Menthon — 962 and 968 — are impossible, since
as late as 973 the pass was held by Saracen marauders (see my
paper in ' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 272-74). The saint is said
to have been born in 928, and to have died on June 15, 1008, but
see the careful discussion by the late Prof. Alois Llitolf (one of
the chief authorities on Swiss ecclesiastical history) in the
' Ttibinger Theologische Quartalschrift,' vol. Ixi. (pubUshed 1879),
I pp. 179-207, the result of which is to prove that the holy man
certainly died on June 15, 1081, having been born at the very
'¦ earliest in 996. The legendary accoimt of his life is to be found
in liis Life by Eichard, Archdeacon of Aosta, which has been
expanded and versified in the curious Old-French work ' Le
Mystfere de S. Bernard de Menthon,' which was first edited by
M. A. Lecoy de la Marche in 1888, for the ' Society des Anciens
Textes Fran9ais.' See note 88, below, pp. 192-3.
5 See the documents in vol. i. of the Abbe Gremaud's most
usefiiL Documents relatifs a I'Histoire du Vallais (' Mcmoires
et Documents de la Soci^t^ d'Histoire de la Suisse Eomande,'
vol. xxix. 1875). The hospital of Hornechurch or Havering in

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 157
Essex was also given to the St. Bernard brothers by Henry II.,
and remained in their possession tUl the fourteenth century,
when it was bought of them by WilUam of Wykeham for his
great foundation of New CoUege, Oxford. (See Gremaud, vol.
xxix. pp. 45-46, and the new edition of Dugdale's ' Monasticon
Anglicanum,' vol. vi. pp. 652-53.)
Prof. Llitolf (' Theolog. Quartalschrift,' vol. Ixi. p. 20) suggests
that the connection between the Hospice and the EngUsh kings
may be explained by the influence exercised by Ermenfrid,
Bishop of Sion, who was in England as papal legate in
1062 and 1070, crowning King WUUam in the latter year,
and helping in the nomination of Lanfranc to the see of
Canterbury (archbishop, 1070-93). See my note on this bishop
in the ' EngUsU Historical Eeview,' No. 8, pp. 738-39. I would
also venture to suggest that the elevation of St. Anselm to the see
of Canterbury (which he held from 1093 to 1114) may further
explain the interesting relations between English kings and the
St. Bernard Hospice : for St. Anselm was born at Aosta in 1033,
and Uved there tUl 1060, so that he must have been personally
acquainted with St. Bernard, who was the Archdeacon of Aosta.
6 See the document in Bishop Stubbs's editions of Benedict
of Peterborough (vol. i. pp. 37-41), or of Eoger of Hoveden
(vol. ii. pp. 41-44), or in Eymer's ' Foedera,' vol. i. pp. 33-34
(1727 edition), or vol. i. p. 28 (1816 edition).
7 See E. Oehlmann's first article on the history of the Alpine
Passes in the Middle Ages, ' Jahrbuch fiir Schweizerische
Geschiehte,' vol. iii. pp. 257-62.
8 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 271-75 ; vol. s. p. 273.
9 The name ' marones ' has given rise to considerable dis
cussion, as its derivation is very obscure. It occurs also in two
tenth-century passages quoted by Du Cange (' Glossarium Media
et Infimae Latinitatis,' s.v.) One is from the life of St. Odo
(879-943), Abbot of Cluny: 'Dumpatriam reverteretur, inter
Burdonum Alpes, &c. Secus locum autem Ulum habitat quod-
dam genus hominum, qui Marrones vocantur, et arbitror ex
Marronea Aquilonari provincia iUud nomen traxisse originem.'
The other is from the life of St. Gerald, Count of Orleans, by

iS8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the same St. Odo of Cluny : ' Ipsi quidem Marruci, rigentes
videlicet Alpium incolas, nihil qusestuosius ffistimabant quam ut
supellectUem Geraldi per juga montis Jovina transveherent.'
Du Cange is inclined to derive the term from the Mauri or Sara
cens who in the tenth century held the Alpine passes (see
' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 256-76). His latest (1885) editor, M.
Leopold Favre, is unable to cite any further instances in which
the name is used, but seems to consider it identical with
' maronnier ' (meaning a pirate, or simply a phot or sailor, now
'marinier'), used in several documents of the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries. Oehlmann (loc. cit. p. 252, n. 5) suppUes
one more instance of the term, taken from the ' Petri Damiani
Gall. Profectio ' by one Kadolaus of Parma (in Mai's ' Nova
coUectio,' vi. b. p. 198) : ' Ipsa enim Joviana .... pericula
quse vix unquam constat fuisse pervia, quae etiam mortis
ruinam transeuntibus semper minantur, nulUus ut dicitur
marronis subvectus auxilio non pedetemtim, ut mos est ilUus
itineris, perrexisse sed potius cucurrisse ' (the date of
this passage of the St. Bernard is 1063). Scheler (' Dic
tionnaire d'Etymologie Franjaise, 1873) quotes ' marron ' as
meaning (in addition to the ordinary sense of ' chestnut ') a
fugitive negro or a domestic animal who has escaped to the
woods, from the Spanish ' eimarron ' ; but M. Littre (' Diction
naire de la Langue Franpaise ') rejects this derivation and
meaning, and says that the Low Latin ' marrones ' and the
WaUoon ' maroner ' (meaning to thieve) are ' mots qui n'ont
rien 4 faire ici ' (i.e. in this article on ' marron ' taken in Scheler's
two senses) ' et dont I'origine est d'aUleurs inconnue.' Topffer
(' Voyages en Zigzag,' 185Q edition, p. 224) speaks of encountering,
on the way up the Gemmi from Leuk, ' des guides marrons,
c'est h, dire qui n'ont pas le droit de s'engager ici,' this sense of
'unlicensed' being probably derived from the original one of
¦eimarron.' Godefroy ('Dictionnaire de I'Ancienne Langue
FranQaise,' 1886) distinguishes the word 'marron,' meaning a
guide, from all others referring to chestnuts, or the sea, and
quotes two most interesting occurrences of the word in
sixteenth-century French literature. One of these is from

N'oTEs ON Swiss Guide-Books 159
Eabelais (in his ' little burlesqxie almanack ' entitled the ' Pan-
tagrueline Prognostication,' cap. vii.) : ' Les gryphons et marrons
des montaignes de Savoye, Daulphine et Hyberbor^es, qui ont
neiges sempiterneUes, seront frustres de ceste saison.' In the
other, from the ' Memoires ' of Du BeUay (bk. ix. p. 298 of the
original 1569 edition, p. 726 of Buchon's 1836 reprint in his
' Choix de Chroniques et de Mcmoires sur I'Histoire de France '),
we read : ' Arrivant A, la Nouvalaise ' (on the ItaUan side of the
Mont Cenis) ' on lui fit entendre que la tourmente estoit sur la
montagne ; ce nonobstant on ne lui sceut dissuader de passer
ce jour 1^, pensant corrompre le temps, centre I'opinion de tous
les marrons, qui sont ceux qui congnoissent les tourmentes de
la montagne, comme font les mariniers ceUes de la mer.' The
last words seem to suggest how ' maronnier ' and ' marinier '
came to be considered as having the same meaning. Bourrit,
on the title-page of his ' Description des Aspects du Mont-Blanc
du cote de la Val-d'Aost ' (1776), mentions ' des Marons ou Cre
tins ' ; but I have not been able to find the aUusion in the text,
and he does not mention the term ' maronnier ' when speaking
of the Great St. Bernard, nor do either of these words seem to
occur in his other works. His journey to the valley of Aosta
was made in 1774, about two months after that by De Saussure,
but his book was issued ten years earlier than De Saussure's.
De Saussure, in his ' Voyages dans les Alpes ' (8vo. edition,
vol. iv. p. 171 ; 4to. edition of 1786, vol. ii. p. 389), says that in
the vaUey of Aosta 'cretins' are caUed ' marons. ' The samie
writer (Svo. edition, vol. iv. p. 238 ; 4to. edition of 1786, vol. li.
pp. 441-42), in his account of the St. Bernard, speaks of 'un
domestique de confiance, qui se nomme le Maronnier,' who goes
out with the dogs to rescue traveUers crossing the pass. Mr.
Freshfield (' Alpine Journal,' vol. xi. p. 300 to.), by an error
caused by relying on the dates given in the ' Course of Hanni
bal ' (1794), (vol. ii. pp. 90-93), by the Eev. John Whitaker, B.D.,
states that the word ' marrones ' can be traced up to a.d. 560 ;
he suggests that it is derived from 'marrone ' or 'marra,' mean
ing a large spade or shovel used by the ' cantonniers,' or men
employed to keep the great highroads in order.

i6o Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
The name seems throughout to have some special connec
tion with the Great St. Bernard, and in the form ' maronniers '
is stUl employed to designate the convent servants, who, with
the brave dogs, go out to rescue traveUers overtaken by a
storm. 10 This seems to be the sense of a rather obscure phrase,
' mensis ' being rendered as ' parties of guests.' The original
runs as foUows : 'itautaliis jam coUocatis, alus adhuc super-
sedentibus mensis domes juxta.'
11 See ' Gesta Abbatum Trudonensium,' book xii. p. 5. The
passage is to be found in Pertz, ' Monumenta Germaniae Histo-
rica,' Scriptores section, vol. x. p. 307, from which it is reprinted
by M. Gremaud (fcc. cit. pp. 79-80). According to Wattenbach's
' Deutschlands GeschichtsqueUen ' (Sth edition, 1886, vol. u. pp.
134-35), Abbot Eudolf (elected 1108, died 1138) wrote the first
seven books (628-1108) of this chronicle, and it was continued
by an intimate friend of his to 1136. It was later continued to
1366, and the earUer part revised at the end of the fourteenth
century. Kbpke's edition in the ' Scriptores ' is based on the
original MSS., and gives the genuine text of the work. One
passage must be given in the original : ' Itaque marones, capi-
tibus propter nimium frigus filtro piUeatis, manibus vUlose cyro-
thecatis, pedibus coturnis munitis atque subtus a planta ferreis
aculeis propter lubricam glaciem armatis, hastas longas ad pal-
pandam sub alta nive viam in manibus ferentes, soUtam audenter
ingressi sunt viam.'
12 The same dread of the mountains is seen in the curse
imprecated by an English scribe (938^6) on any violator of
the documents he drafted : ' perpessus sit geUdis glacierum
flatibus et Pennino exercitu malignormn spirituum.' (See ' Al
pine Journal,' vol. xi. p. 294, note J.)
These documents are numbered 372 (dated 938), 377, 378
(939), 385, 887 (940), 388 (941), 394, 396 (943), and 407 (946), in
Mr. J. M. Kemble's ' Codex Diplomaticus jEvi Saxonici ' (vol.
ii. published in 1840). Mr. Kemble does not mark any of them
as spurious or suspicious, and does not speak of this imprecation
in his discussion of the different forms of sanction used in the

N'OTES ON Swiss Guide-Books i6i
charters (vol. i. pp. Ixv.-lxvu.). The first three are witnessed by
King ^thelstan, the others by King Edmund. There is no name
among those of the witnesses, save that of the king, which occurs
in every one of these nine grants. That of .^Ifheah (Alphege),
Bishop of Winchester (not to be confounded with his great
namesake who flourished at the end of the same century), occurs
in aU but number 372, whUe that of the reigning Archbishop of
Canterbury is found in aU save numbers 387 and 388, though
most probably the ' Oda episcopus ' of these two documents is
identical with the Oda, Bishop of Eamsbury (the successor of
Wulfhehn, in 942, in the metropoUtical see), who appears in 943
and 946. We can only conclude that the scribe was a member
of the king's household, or attached to the sees of Canterbury
or of Winchester, and that this formula owes its origin to some
terrible experiences, probably his own, during a passage of the
Alps on the way to Eome.
13 See M. Gremaud's work, vol. i. p. 87 : ' Ab urbe Mauritii '
(St. Maurice) ' iter bidui ad hospitium Bernhardi, Biarnhards
spitala, in monte situm, ducit. Est quoque in Alpibus hospitium
Petri, Petrss spitali ' (Bourg S. Pierre) ' ubi circa festum S.
Olavi aestivum ' (July 29) ' saepe saxa nive et aqua glacie obducta
conspiciuntur. Alpibus ab austro extat oppidum Thrslatorp '
(Etroubles). 'Tum Augusta' (Aosta) 'urbs bona.'
14 On these Itineraries see Oehlmann, loc. cit. vol. iii. pp.
257-64 ; vol. iv. pp. 283-84 and 289.
15 See the amusing extracts from the diary of a knight who
spent some time at Pfaffers in 1479, given in Mr. BaUUe-Groh-
man's ' Gaddings with a Primitive People,' vol. ii. pp. 183-87.
16 See his long and interesting account in a Latin letter ad
dressed to a friend. It is the first letter of the fourth book of his
' De Eebus Familiaribus,' and has been translated into EngUsh
by Mr. Henry Eeeve in his Life of Petrarch, published in Messrs.
Blackwood's ' Foreign Classics for English Eeaders ' ; it appears
in a French dress in the 1879 and later editions of Zurcher and
MargoU^'s ' Les Ascensions Celebres.' For Dante and his atti
tude towards the mountains see an interesting paper by Mr.
Freshfield (' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. pp. 400-6), and a very de-
M

1 62 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
taUed one by Signor Brentari in the ' BoUettino del Club Alpino
ItaUano ' for 1887 (No. 54, pp. 12-61).
17 See the description of the ascent given by one of the
party, Vadianus, in his ' Commentarius in tres Hbros Pomponii
Melae de Situ Orbis ' (1518), and reprinted in Gesner's 1555
book. 18 It is printed as an introduction to Gesner's tractate
entitled ' Libellus de lacte et operibus lactarus, philologus pariter
ac medicus ' (1541). (His ' Descriptio Montis Fracti sive M.
PUati ' appeared in 1555.)
' Gonstitui posthac, Aviene doctissime, qu^m diu mihi vita
divinitus conoessa fuerit, quotannis montes aUquos, aut saltem
unum oonscendere, cum in suo vigore plantae sunt, partim earum
cognitionis, partim honesti corporis exercitu, animique delecta-
tionis, gratia. Quanta enim voluptas, quantae sunt putas animi,
ut par est affecti, deUcis, montium moles immensa spectaelo
admirari, et caput tanquam inter nubes attoUere ! Nescio quo
pacto altitudine stupenda mens perceUitur rapiturque in summi
iUius architecti considerationem. . . . Sapientis studiosi pergent
terrestris hujus paradisi spectacula corporeis animique ocuUs con-
templari ; inter quae minimS postrema sunt aedita praeruptaque
montium fastigia, inaccessa praecipitia, ad coelum tendens laterum
immanitas, rupes arduK, opacas sylvse.'
These words recaU the description given some years before
of Leonardo da Vinci's impressions on making the ascent of
the ' Monboso,' a peak on the borders of France and Italy :
' The base of this mountain gives birth to the four rivers which
flow in four different directions through the whole of Europe.
And no mountain has its base at so great a height as this, which
lifts itself almost above the clouds, and snow seldom faUs there,
but only haU in the summer, when the clouds are highest. And
this hail lies unmelted there, so that if it were not for the rarity
of clouds falling, or mounting to it, which they do not do twice
in a summer, an enormous mass of ice would be pUed up there
by the haU, and in the middle of July I found it very consider
able, and the sun as it feU on the mountain was far brighter
here than in the plains below, because a smaUer extent of atmo-

AZOTES ON Swiss Guide-Books 163
sphere lay between the summit of the mountain and the sun.'
I take this translation from that given by Dr. J. P. Eichter in
note 1060 of ' The Literary Works of Leonardo da Vinci ' (1888),
and have inserted some slight corrections suggested by Mr. Fresh
field (' Alpine Journal,' vol. xu. p. 202, and ' Proceedings of the
E.G.S. ,' June 1884). I incline to the beUef that the peak in ques
tion is the Monbego (9,826 feet) in the Maritime Alps, not very
far from the Col de Tenda, and just on the borders of France
and Italy.
It may be noted here that it is very unlikely that, as M.
Eavaisson supposed, Leonardo ever went up the Eigi (see ' Al
pine Journal,' vol. x. p. 280, vol. xii. p. 204).
19 In 1708 there was pubUshed in London by Henry
Clements, by order of the Eoyal Society, a quarto volume of
151 pages, bearing the imprimatur of Sir Isaac Newton, P.E.S.,
on the title-page, and containing the narratives of these three
journeys separately paged. A copy is in the library of the
Alpine Club, and I recently purchased another for the modest
sum of five francs, so that it does not seem to be rare, though
it is very interesting. For a complete list of subscribers to the
expenses of engraving the forty-two plates, see pp. 623-24 of
the 1723 coUected edition.
20 See speciaUy the dragon flgured opposite p. 395 of the
1723 volume (in the narrative of the 1706 journey), and repro
duced in an early volume of the 'Alpine Journal' (vol. in. p. 204).
Scheuohzer prints a description (after which the engraving
seems to have been modeUed) of this particular monster from
the ' Historia NaturaUs Helvetiae Curiosa ' (1680, pp. 249-50)
of J. J. Wagner, the author of the ' Mercurius Helveticus.' It
was seen about 1660 on the Wangserberg, near Sargans, in
Graubunden, by a certain Andreas Eodunerus (a high official of
Upper Saxony) and a companion, and naturaUy terrified them
much. Wagner adds, ' Haec vemacula et propria manu exarata
Ampl. Dn. Landmannus Eodunerus, prsedicti D. Secretarii filius,
communicavit.' Thus Scheuchzer simply reproduces from
Wagner (and Ulustrates) a monster who was seen by a person
of credit, whose son informed Wagner of the facts of the case,
II 2

1 64 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
both by word of mouth and by writing. It ought further to be
noticed that this plate in Scheuchzer is not stated to have been
executed at the expense of any particular benefactor, as many
of his earlier plates are ; but this anonymous character is shared
by the other plates which represent monsters, though none are
quite so appaUing.
21 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. viii., Appendix, pp. 43-44, note.
22 ' Augent autem viarum difBcultatem prasoipitia et derupta
loca, praesertim si glacie tecta sint itinera, quare variis rationi-
bus sibi consulunt viatores, et pastores, ac venatores qui fre
quenter per altissimos montes vagantur. Nam adversus lubri-
citatem glaciei soleas ferreas, equoruin soleis similes, tribus
acutis cuspidibus praeditas, firmiter pedibus aUigare solent, ut
vestigia in glacie firmare possint : aUi corrigas, quibus calcaria
astringuntur sub imo pede simUiter praeacuto ferro muniunt,
aliaque adhibent, quae lubricitati obsistere et gressum firmare
possmit. NonnulUs in locis bacuUs utuntur mucrone ferreo
praepilatis, quibus nixi per arduos clivos ascendere et descendere
solent ; hos alpinos baeulos vocant, et pastoribus praecipue in
usu sunt. Aliquando etiam pastores et venatores per loca
declivia et pene praecipitia, quae nulla alioqui via est, caesis ramis
arborum, prsoipue abietum, insidentes, et quasi inequitantes se
demittunt. Ubi autum currus onusti per loca hujusmodi ardua
demittendi sunt, nonnunquam ingentibus funibus ergatarum et
trochlearum artificio eos dimittunt ' (p. 283).
23 ' Porro qui profundas nives perambulare volunt, UUs locis
ubi nuUae viae sunt, hAc ratione sibi a submersione cavent :
asseres ligneos parvos et tenues, vel ciroulos ligneos cujusmodi
in doliis vinarus vinciendis adhibentur, pedalis diametri funibus
canceUatim undique contextos, pedibus aUigant. Atque hac
ratione cum majus vestigium faciant, non submerguntur, atque
non alte in nives incidmit ' (p. 287).
24 ' Prseterea inter aUa mala frigus ingens his qui per Alpes
iter faoiunt molestum est praesertim stante Borea, quare saepe
multorum artus vi frigoris amburuntur, atque aUis aures aut
nares, nonnullis manuum aut pedum digiti, atque etiam ipsi
pedes vi frigoris obstupescunt et pereunt : multi ooulos ex per-

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 165
petuo nivium usu amittunt. Adversus haec mala varia praesidia
sunt : ocuUs quidem ut vel aUquid nigri prsetendatur, vel vitrea
conspicUia quse vocant : reliquis membris, ut peUibus crassisque
vestimentis bene contra frigus muniantur : ac charta scriptoria
et membrana pectus optime a ventis frigidis defendunt ; quod
si pedes obstupuerint, nootu exutis calceis geUdae aquae immer-
guntur et paulatim tepida affimditur, ita enim restitui creduntur.
Maxime tamen omnium motus assiduus prodest : accidit enim
nonnunquam ut in ascendendo monte, homines ob laborem
incalescant, et nuUum frigus se sentire existiment, quod si
quiescendi gratia in nivibus sederint, mox iUis somnus obrepit
atque tum absque uUo fere sensu doloris dormientes obstu
pescunt et moriuntur ' (pp. 292-93).
25 ' Prseterea Ula vetus glacies per quam nonnunquam iter
faciendum est, profundos hiatus trium aut quatuor pedum
latitudine et saepe etiam ampliores habet, in quos si quis decidat,
indubitato UU pereundum est. Accidit autem ut nivibus recen-
tibus, aut vento conglomeratis iUi hiatus tegantur, itaque qui
tum per Alpes iter faciunt, peritos locorum qui ipsis prseeant
conducere solent : hosce fune cingunt, cui etiam aliquot ex his
qui sequuntur se astringunt, qui vero prseit longa pertica viam
explorat et diUgenter in nivibus hiatus hos scrutatur, quod si
forte imprudens in aUquem deoiderit, a sociis qui eodem fune
cincti sunt, sustinetur et extrahitur. Ubi nuUae nives foveas
tegunt, minus est pericuU, saltu tamen iUos superare oportet,
nulU enim hie sunt pontes ; nisi quod nonnunquam hi qui sarci-
naria jumenta per hsee loca agunt (id autem rarius fit) asseres
Ugneos secum ferunt, quibus jumentis ponticulum sternunt qua
transeant ' (pp. 285-86).
26 Want of space alone prevents me from quoting Simler's
very full account of the nature, causes, and means of preventing
avalanches (pp. 288-92). I must content myself with a refer
ence to Mr. Tuckett's summary of the passage in his very
interesting notes on Avalanches (' Alpine Journal,' vol. v. p. 846).
27 Herr H. Eckhardt has given a very fuU account of
Merian's Hfe and work, in his excellent book entitled ' Matthaeus
Merian ; eine kulturhistorische Studie ' (Basel, Georg. 1887,

1 66 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
8vo. pp. vii. 222). For ZeUler see M. Paid ZeUler's interesting
article in the ' Annuaire du Club Alpin Frangais,' 1887 (vol. xiv.
pp. 478-86), and Herr Eckardt's work (p. 182). The Merian
family stUl flourishes in Basel, whUe M. Paul ZeiUer is at
least a namesake, possibly a member of the family, of Martin
ZeUler. 28 It does not enter into the scheme of this work to trace
out this interesting history of Alpine iUustrations, on which Mr.
Freshfield's remarks ('Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 15-18) should
be consulted. It would be very instructive to take some one
subject and follow the representation given of it in various works.
Take as an instance the ease of the Grindelwald glaciers (par
ticularly the lower one), the best known and most accessible of
all glaciers in former days. The earliest published view after
Merian's seems to be a very rude, yet quite unmistakable, repre
sentation of the Lower glacier, with the Mettenberg, Viescher-
horner, and Eiger, in the ' Philosophical Transactions ' of the
Eoyal Society, No. 100, February 9, 1673-74 (see 'Alpine
Journal,' vol. xiv. p. 820). Scheuchzer (p. 288 of the 1723 edi
tion) reproduces Merian's view and adds two others (pp. 470 and
482), luckily quite pecuhar to himself. Altmann (1751), Gruner
(1760), Bourrit (1781 and 1785), Meiners (1788), and J. E. Wyss
(1816-17), each have separate and distinct views — Gruner, in
deed, giving no fewer than three. The 1714 and 1730 editions
of the ' Delices de la Suisse ' reproduce Merian's view with
some alterations in the details of the foreground, but the 1764
and 1776 editions of that work reproduce one of Gruner's, whUe
the 1778 edition goes back to Merian's plate as altered in 1714
and 1730. There are also six plates of the Grindelwald glaciers
in De Laborde and De Zurlauben's ' Tableaux Pittoresques '
(1777-80), aU of which seem to have been made expressly for
this work and not copied from any of the earlier views. Apart
from their historical importance as showing the increasing
amount of interest taien in the phenomena of the ice-world,
these engravings, however rough and rude, ought to be of some
value in controUing and correcting the very vague reports as to
the advance or retreat of the glaciers. Of no other glacier than

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 167
the Lower Grindelwald one probably is there such a complete
series of views.
29 Oddly enough, Herr B. Studer mentions (p. 182) the
1688 edition only, and Herr Peyer (p. 155) the 1701 edition only.
The fuUest and best account of the three editions is to be found
in Von HaUer (vol. i. pp. 137-38, No. 705), from which I take
the foUowing detaUs. The title of the editio princeps is ' Index
Memorabilium, Helvetice oder Zeiger der denkwiirdigsten Curio-
sitaten welche in der Eydgnosschaft dieser jetzigen Zeit fiir-
nehmUch zu beobachten sind ; ' it is in 12mo., and has 123
pages. The 1688 edition is also in 12mo., and contains 216 pages
and many engravings, together with a smaU map of Switzer
land, after Geiger's larger one, the title of the work being ' Mer
curius Helveticus : fiirsteUend die Denk- und Schauwiirdigsten
Anmerkungen und Seltsamkeiten der Eydgnosschaft, durch Joh.
Jacob Wagner.' The 1701 edition is enlarged and improved,
and has the same title, with the substitution of ' vornemsten
Sachen ' for ' Anmerkungen,' the name of the author preceding
the word ' Mercurius ' thus, ' J. Jacob Wagners, M.D.' It
contains 268 pages (including a false title-page dated 1688),
besides many engravings, and the same smaU map of Switzer
land as in 1688.
30 I have carefuUy compared the engravings of the 1642
Merian and the 1701 Wagner. Of the 75 views in Merian, 28
do not appear in Wagner ; whUe of the 60 in Wagner, 13 do
not appear in Merian. There are thus 47 (two-thirds of the
views of Merian) which are possibly common to the two books,
but in some cases the resemblance is uncertain, 27 in my
opinion having certainly been copied and reduced by Wagner
from Merian. Merian's book is thus the starting-point in the
history of representations of Swiss towns and scenery generaUy.
Even the Uttle map in the 1688 and 1701 editions of Wagner
is a reduction (made, as it confesses, by Johann Meyer in 1688)
of Hans Conrad Geiger's large map of 1637 which accompanies
the Merian of 1642.
31 There was a whole set of guide-books to different countries
and places pubUshed under the title of ' D^Hces ' in the first

1 68 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
half of the eighteenth century. Thus we find among the books
published by Peter van der Aa at Leyden (see the list prefixed
to the 1723 edition of Scheuchzer) guide-books bearing the title
of ' DeUces,' devoted to Spain and Portugal, Great Britain and
Ireland (this was in nine duodecimo volumes and written by
J. Beeverel), Italy, Leyden, Ancient Eome, Modem Eome, and
Switzerland (this last Euchat's). The only one relating to
Switzerland (besides Euchat's), which I have come across, is
the ' Deliciae Urbis Bernae ' (1732), by J. E. Gruner, father of
GottUeb S. Gruner, the weU-known author of the important
work entitled 'Die Eisgebirge des Schweizerlandes' (1760).
32 In the first edition there were 1,070 pages (the paging being
continuous) and 75 engravings. The second edition was pub
lished at Amsterdam in 1730, in four 12mo. volumes containing
1,912 pages and 75 engravings ; Stanyan's treatise fills nearly
the whole of the first volume (484 pages), being worked up with
the original introduction (62 pages) to the first edition, with a
few additions from other sources. The third appeared at Basel
in 1764, in four large 12mo. (or small 8vo.) volumes, comprising
1,716 pages ; it was thoroughly revised, particularly in matters
relating to the Alps, and the engravings are for the most part
new. The fourth edition (Basel, 1776 ; 1,648 pages in 4 vols.
large 12mo.) was practicaUy a reprint of the third. The fifth
edition is the Neuchatel one of 1778, mentioned in the text,
2 vols. 4to., comprising 816 pages and 81 plates ; it is by far the
best edition of the ' Delices,' having been entirely remodeUed,
but its awkward size was much against its practical usefulness.
A German translation of the ' Dffices,' freely made and with
many additions, was issued at Leipzig (1777-80) under the
title ' Ueber das Interessanteste in der Schweiz ' (4 vols. 8vo.,
comprising 2,281 pages). The translator was a BerUn Pfarrer,
J. H. F. Ulrich by name. He added a section of his own on
the religion of the Swiss, besides many other chapters partly by
him, partly by others. In vol. iv. Von HaUer's corrections of
the original work are printed (see Von HaUer, vol. i. pp. 170-71,
No. 750). The engravings in the first two editions are reduced
from those in the works of Merian and Scheuchzer. An almost

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books i6g
entirely new set was substituted for them in the editions of 1764
and 1776, in which Gruner's -iiew of the Lower Grindelwald glacier
replaces that from Merian and Scheuchzer, though in the 1778
edition the older view again takes the place of Gruner's. The
tone of the earUer editions is strongly antipapal, and that of
1764 was formaUy condemned by the Pope in 1765. I take the
above detaUs from Von HaUer (vol. i. pp. 146-49, No. 718), and
from the various editions themselves, of all of which I possess
copies. The notices in Herr Studer (pp. 221-22, 826) are taken
from Von HaUer.
33 Stanyan's book is entitled ' An Account of Switzerland.
Written in the Year 1714.' The first edition, pubUshed anony
mously in 1714 in London by Jacob Tonson, is in 8vo., and
contains 247 pages besides the preface. (There is a copy in the
Alpine Club Library, entered, ovsdng to no name appearing on
the title-page, under the head ' Switzerland ' in the new edition
of the Catalogue, p. 51.) A French translation (in 8vo.) was
pubUshed the same year at Amsterdam, and extends over 251
pages. Another French edition was issued the same year
(also in 8vo., and in 232 pages) by Jean Garrel, nominaUy at
Amsterdam, but reaUy, according to Von HaUer, at Bern. On
this interesting book see Von HaUer (vol. i. pp. 144-45). The Bod
leian possesses copies of the London and the (false) Amsterdam
editions (I bought a copy of the latter recently for the sum of
two francs) ; they are entered in the Catalogue under the head
of ' Helvetia,' but the name ' Temple Stanyan ' is also inserted,
and the work is mentioned under the same Christian and sur
names in Watt's ' BibUotheca Britannica ' (1824), vol. ii. p. 875.
Coxe, in the 1780 issue of his ' Sketches of the Natural, CivU, and
PoUtical State of Swisserland,' p. 475, acknowledges his obUga
tions to several books, and among them is ' Stannyan's Account
of Swisserland,' whUe in his later editions the book appears in
the Hst of works consulted by him. No name appears on the
title-page of any of the editions of the book. Von HaUer, how
ever, states distinctly that it was written by Abraham Stanian;
but on the title-page of the copy of the London edition now in
the Bodleian Library, the name ' Temple Stanyan ' is inserted

I70 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
in ink, and the speUing of the surname at least seems to be
more accurate than Von HaUer's.
The book contains ten chapters, and an appendix on the
' aUies ' of the Confederation, i.e. the towns and districts asso
ciated with it by aUiances with aU or with some of the Thirteen
Cantons. All these chapters are reproduced more or less UteraUy,
in most cases with running and generaUy very hostUe criticisms
(particularly in the remarks on the government of Bern), in
some part of the second and later editions of the 'DeHces.'
Stanyan's name is mentioned in the preface to the 1764 and 1776
editions of the ' Delices,' but not in that of the 1730 or 1778
editions. Von HaUer says that the information contained in
Stanyan's work is astonishingly accurate, but as the conduct of
Bern was spoken of with disapproval, that town issued a solemn
warning against the book. It must further be noted that the
sections in the ' Delices ' of 1730 about dragons, giants, &c., do
not appear in Stanyan's book, and that those relating to the Alps,
to the lakes ofthe country, &c., are taken over (with alterations)
from the first edition. A later edition of Stanyan's book appeared
at Paris and Fribourgin 1766 (12mo., 384 pages), under the title
of ' Tableau historique et poHtique de la Suisse ' (see Von HaUer,
as above). I am much indebted to Mr. Leslie Stephen for a number
of references from which it is possible to make out Stanyan's
official career, though this is rendered difficult by the fact that
Abraham Stanyan is frequently confounded with his younger
brother Temple, who, in 1739, issued a ' Grecian History '
(2 vols.), and died in 1752. Abraham seems to have been a Lord
of the Admiralty from 1697 to 1703, and to have held the office
of Clerk of the CouncU fi^om May 20, 1699, to 1719. On June 6,
1699, as secretary to the Earl of Manchester's embassy to France
he went to Paris to reheve Prior, and in January 1701-2 was
appointed one of the secretaries to the Earl of Manchester, then
Secretary of State. On May 8, 1705, he was named envoy to
the Swiss Cantons, and saUed for his new post on June 26. He
came to England on business for four months in 1708-9, and
next year went on a private commission to Piedmont. It is

Notes on Swiss Gcide-Books 171
possible that he had already been in Switzerland in 1700 and
1706, and he apparently kept his post as envoy to the Cantons
tiU the end of 1714, for in January 1715 he was elected M.P.
for the borough of Buckingham. This would exactly agree with
his statement in his preface that it was through a ' Eesidence
of above eight Years ' that he had had such exceUent oppor
tunities of acquiring information about Swiss matters. He was
again one of the Lords of the Admh-alty from October 1714 to
AprU 1717, that is just the interval between his Swiss and
Turkish missions. He seems to have been special envoy to the
Emperor in 1716, and November 30, 1717, vacated his seat for
Buckingham on accepting an office of profit under the crown.
This, no doubt, was the post of ambassador to the Porte, in
which he succeeded Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's husband,
and which he held for many years, giving up his clerkship of
the CouncU in 1719 to his brother Temple. In 1731 he was
named, on his return, one of the commissioners for keeping the
Privy Seal, and he died at his seat in Bucks on September 11
(or 9), 1732. (AUowing for the difference of style, the former
date agrees precisely with Von HaUer's statement that the
date of his death was September 22.) He seems to have been
a man of wjde experience and Hterary tastes, for we find his
name among those of the original subscribers to Pope's trans
lation of the Ihad, His Swiss book is perhaps the best ever
written by an Enghshman on Swiss poUtical matters, ranking
with those of Coxe (1779) and Grote (1847).
Dr. Johnson, in 1778, when praising the authentic informa
tion given by modern traveUers as compared with that given
by their predecessors, said : ' The Swiss admit that there is but
one errour in Stanyan ' (BosweU's ' Johnson,' original edition.
of 1791, vol. ii. p. 267). No Christian name is mentioned in
the text or in the notes. In Croker's edition the notes attribute
the Swiss book to Temple Stanyan, whUe the index gives it to
Abraham Stanyan. In Dr. Birkbeck HUl's recent edition of
BosweU, no Christian name is given in the notes, but in the
index the name ' Temple ' is once more wrongly appended to
ihe reference.

172 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
34 The writings of these pioneers of mountaineering deserve
careful study. They are not considered in this paper, because
they are descriptive narratives supplying material for guide
books, rather than guide-books proper. Hence I am reluctantly
compeUed to pass them over with this brief mention, but I do
this with less regret because several of them have aheady formed
the subject of interesting papers by Mr. D. W. Freshfield in the
' Alpine Journal.' For Bourrit (1739-1815) see ' Alpine Journal,'
vol. ix. pp. 11-18, 23-24 ; for the Delucs, Jean Andre (1727-
1817) and GuiUaume Antoine (1729-1812), see ' Alpine Journal,'
vol. ix. pp. 7-11 ; for Placidus k Spescha (1740-99), ' Alpine
Journal,' vol. x. pp. 289-312; while I hope that some day
Mr. Freshfield will give us a biography of De Saussure (1752-
1835), the best known of the company. Andre C^sar Bordier
of Geneva was born in 1747, and in 1773 pubUshed at Geneva,
under the initials ' Mr. B.,' his ' Voyage pitoresque [sic] aux
Glacieres de Savoye ' (12ino., 303 pages), a work of which the
authorship is sometimes wrongly attributed to Bourrit (see
' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 827-83, Professor TyndaU's ' Forms
of Water,' pp. 157, 162, and note 87 below).
Bourrit, the Delucs, and De Saussure of course speciaUy
describe the Mont Blanc chain ; while Father Placidus cUmbed
the peaks around the head of the Upper Ehine vaUey near his
home (Todi and Graubiinden districts). J. G. Altmann (1697-
1758) in his ' Versuch einer historischen und physischen Be
schreibung der Helvetischen Eisgebirgen' (1751) is concerned
with the ice-fields of the Bernese Oberland, whUe G. S. Gruner
(1717-78) in his 'Die Eisgebirge des Schweizerlandes' (3 vols.,
1760, improved edition in 1778) devotes his first volume to the
same district and the Valais (this last section being poor and
defective), his second to the glaciers of the rest of Switzerland,
and his third to an exposition of his theory as to the origin and
nature of glaciers generaUy.
I have not seen J. H. Hottinger's (1680-1756) ' Montium
Glacialium Helveticorum Descriptio ' — vwitten April 5, 1703, as
part of a letter to Mr. Woodward (E. Wolf, ' Biographien zur
Kulturgeschichte der Schweiz,' vol. i. p. 192, to. 23) — which was.

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 173
published in the ' Ephemerides ' of the Imperial Academy of
Sciences at Vienna (Decursus iii. ann. 8, 10, in Appendice 1706,
pp. 41-75), and has not been separately reprinted. Scheuchzer
(p. 284 of the 1723 edition), Gruner (vol. i. p. xiv.), and Von
HaUer (vol. i. pp. 442-43) speak highly of this essay, though Herr
B. Studer (p. 206) thinks that Hottinger had never seen any
glaciers besides those at Grindelwald.
35 It is worth noting that from the time the name first
appears (1090), it is always Latinised as ' Campus Munitus,'
which may refer to the fortification of the monastery, but more
probably to the natural ramparts defending the trench of meadow-
land which forms the vaUey.
36 See M. TheophUe Dufour's exceUent editio princeps (m
the ' Echo des Alpes ' for 1879, and reprinted separately) of
Martel's MS. French account of Mr. Windham's journey in
1741, and his own in 1742.
37 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. p. 167 ; vol. xi. pp. 484-85 :
vol. xiU. pp. 279-80.
38 For Exchaquet see Studer, pp. 439, 488 ; and ' Alpine
Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 19, 87. His reUef was the basis of the map
he drew for the 1790 book.
39 Ebel (vol. i. p. 126, 1804 edition ; vol. i. p. 131, 1809 edi
tion) mentions a ' vue perspective '.of the St. Gotthard, engraved
by Mechel (one of the chief copper engravers of the day), and
pubUshed at Basel in 1792, as based on M. Exchaquet's relief,
which must therefore have been completed between 1790 and
1792. 40 Probably the first account of De Saussure's ascent of
Mont Blanc on August 3, 1787, which was pubUshed in English
was ' A Short Account of an Expedition to the Summit of Mont
Blanc by M. de Saussure of Geneva in August last,' printed for
George Kearsley, 46 Fleet Street, London, in 1788, as a shiUing
Appendix of 30 pages (12mo.) to a ' Sketch of a Tour through
Swisserland : a new edition.' The preface of the latter book is
signed ' T. M.' (Thomas Martjn, see note 44 below), the paging
of the Sketch and of the Appendix being continuous. It also
briefly mentions Bourrit's passage of the Co] du G^ant on

174 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
August 27, 1787, which it wrongly holds to be the first traverse
of the pass (see ' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 23-24, 87-89).
Neither of these appeared in the French version of the book,
published under the title of ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse,' at
any rate in the third edition, 1794.
41 'Alpine Journal,' vol. xiii. p. 181. This accident is men
tioned briefly in the notes on pp. 114-15 of the 1808 edition of
Bourrit's ' Itineraire.' It would be interesting to know which
edition of De Saussure's ' Voyages ' this was. The first edition
of vol. Ui. in the quarto form was issued at Neuchatel in 1796,
but as it describes journeys in Italy, France, Tessin, Vaud, and
Bern, it does not seem clear why M. Eschen should have had it
with him on the Buet. I am inclined to think that it was rather
vol. iii. of an octavo edition (in 4 vols.) of a portion of the
' Voyages,' which I possess, but of which I can find no bibUo-
graphical account in all the lives and mentions of De Saussure
in Studer, Wolf, Secretan, &c. It is in four volumes (vols. i.
and ii. published at Geneva in 1787, vols. iii. and iv. at Geneva
and Paris in 1786). It seems to be a simple reprint, in a handy
form, of the contents of vol. i. (originaUy pubUshed in 1779 at
Neuchatel) and ii. (issued at Geneva in 1786) of the 4 vol. quarto
edition (1779-96), that is ofthe Natural History ofthe environs
of Geneva, and of the first and second journeys of the author,
not describing, therefore, his ascent of Mont Blanc and his
sojourn on the Col du Geant. My edition seems to be quite
distinct firom the 8 vol. octavo edition (NeuchWel, 1780-96), and
it has all the maps and plates of the first 2 vols, of the quarto
edition. These retain their original numbering, and those con
tained in vol. i. (quarto) are stUl so marked in the octavo' edition,
though in both oases the contents of a quarto volume are spread
over two octavo volumes. There is possibly some sUght differ
ence as to the vignettes and headpieces of certain chapters. In
one catalogue I have seen the date of the 8 vol. octavo edition
given as 1787 to 1796, and it might seem as if my 4 vols, formed
the first half of it ; but as, according to that catalogue, it was
issued at Geneva and Neuchatel, whereas my books bear on the
title-pages the name of Geneva only, or of Geneva and Paris,

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 175
the two octavo editions do not seem to be identical. The de
scription of the ascent of the Buet comes in vol. ii. of the octavo
edition (part of vol. i. of the quarto edition), but in vol. ui. (part of
vol. u. ofthe quarto edition) there are fuU accounts of the Brevent
and of the geology of the Valorsine. It is, at any rate, easier to |
imagine a man carrying an octavo than a quarto volume up a '
snow mountain.
42 When speaking of Brunnen, Heidegger (it does not
appear why) makes a fiuious attack on the indolent, empty-
headed, and fooUsh traveUers who, by scattering guineas and
louis d'or broadcast, had quite demoralised the natives of the
district, so that it was very advisable to make bargains with
drivers, boatmen, guides, and porters. EngUsh traveUers are
speciaUy blamed for this foolish profusion, which would be a
source of great trouble to later EngUsh traveUers, who, by reason
of their unwillingness to foUow this bad example, would be nick
named ' miser-traveUers ' (Karg-Beisende).
43 Coxe, who, after being weU entertained by the abbot, had
left Engelberg on August 25, 1785, translates the doctor's origi
nal account (Letter 26 of 1789 and foUowing editions), and wisely
couoludes that the height of the TitUs must be greatly inferior
to that of Mont Blanc by a comparison of the times (8 and 15
hours) employed by Dr. Feierabend and Dr. Paccard to go from
the vaUey to the summits of their respective peaks.
44 ' T. M.' was the Eev. Thomas Martyn, B.D., F.E.S. (born
1735, died 1825). He was a graduate of Sidney Sussex CoUege,
Cambridge, and, in succession to his father, who had been pro
fessor 1733-61, held the chair of Botany in the University of
Cambridge from 1761 to 1825. Besides many botanical works
he pubUshed several which are of interest to us. He was
possibly the author of an octavo volume of 651 pages, entitled
' Sketch of a Tour through Swisserland,' published in 1787. He
was certaitUy the author of a 12mo. volume issued the same
year, and bearing the same title, of which the price was 2s. It
is of the second edition of this work (1788) that I possess a copy
(the price being raised to 2s. 6d. because of the Appendix on De
Saussure's ascent of Mont Blanc, which was to be obtained sepa-

176 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
rately for a shilhng; see above, note 40), bound up with 'An
Appendix to the Gentleman's Guide through Italy, containing
Catalogues of the Paintings, Statues, Busts, &c.' (1787). This
Italian guide itself was by Prof. Martyn, but the first edition
(12mo., 1787) was issued without any name, this being inserted
in the second edition (in 8vo.), which appeared in 1791 under the
title of • A Tour through Italy.' Prof. Martyn also pubUshed
(1787) ' The Gentleman's Guide in his Tour through France '
(8vo.), as to which Nichols states that Prof. Martyn made many
additions to the 9th edition of this book. Thus in 1787 he put
forth guide-books to three different countries. We find that he
is thanked, by name, by Archdeacon Coxe in the preface to his
' Travels in Switzerland ' (editions of 1789, 1794, and 1801).
I have collected the above detaUs from Messrs. Halkett
& Laing's ' Dictionary of the Anonymous and Pseudonymous
Literature of Great Britain' (Nos. 1,006 and 2,398), Dr. Eobert
Watt's ' BibUotheca Britannica ' (vol. U. p. 651, and vol. iv. s.v.
' Switzerland '), L. B. PhUUps's ' Dictionary of Biographical
Eeference ' (1871), the very full notice in Nichols's ' Literary
Anecdotes ' ^1812), vol. iii. pp. 156-58, and the current ' Cam
bridge Calendar.'
45 See Studer, p. 516, n.
46 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. viu. Appendix, p. 47 n.
47 The third edition appeared in 1809-10 in four volumes.
The fourth (1818), entirely recast by E. Glutz-Blotzheim, and
the fifth (1822-23), revised by J. C. Schooh, each formed a single
volume. The sixth edition too (1830, though some copies seem to
have the imprint 1882), revised by J. C. Schoch, appeared in one
volume, as also the seventh (1841), thoroughly recast (so far as
matter, not arrangement, is concerned) by G. Von Escher.
These detaUs are taken from the preface to the eighth edition
(revised also by Von Escher), wherein the obUgations of the
editor to Murray are acknowledged. From the same preface
(and more in detail in that of the 1823 edition) we learn that in
the fourth (1818) edition Heidegger's ' Handbuch ' (mentioned
above) was incorporated with Ebel, or more accurately, that in
that edition Heidegger's book was taken as the basis, Ebel's

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 177
book being also used to a certain extent. The main reason
alleged is that Ebel in its original form was becoming too cum-
berous for practical use ; and this course was also foUowed in the
case of the 1822-23 edition. Ebel was, of course, translated into
French, though I have not been able to ascertain the date of the
first French edition, which was, however, probably about 1804.
The second French edition (4 vols., 1810-11) corresponds to the
third German, as does also the sHghtly revised third French one
(3 vols., 1818). I possess the first three German editions as well as
the fifth and eighth, besides the second and third French editions.
Among the publishers named on the title-pages of vols. ii. and iii.
(but not on that of vol. i.) of the French edition of 1818 we find
the mention of a London firm, Treuttel & Wurz, 11 Soho
Square. 48 Wyttenbach in his ' Instruction pour les Voyageurs ' &c.
(1787), p. 21, suggests a precaution to be taken by visitors to
glaciers which is quite new to me : .' On pent aussi faire usage de
deux longues perches que le voyageur mettra horizontalement
sous les bras ; muni de tels pr^servatifs, il franchit les abimes,
et il reste suspendu lors meme que la neige s'affaisse sous lui.'
49 This odd-looking division of the name makes us realise
that the Matterhorn takes its name directly from the vUlage at
its foot, which most Ukely is so caUed from the broad meadows
which surround it, ' Matt ' or ' pre ' (as in the old name Pratum
Bornum, Pra Borno, Praborgne) being the chief of the two
words which we now generaUy write as one, and the name
Matterhorn thus meaning the peak above the meadows. In
the mediaeval documents the Zermatt vaUey is known as the
VaUis de Zauxon, Chaiison, or Chouson. Stumpf (1546, p. 660
of the 1606 edition), speaking of the vaUey, mentions the
' Gegnen ¦ (Gegenden) ' genent FinUen, Aroleit und in Miit.'
This last name probably (Simler, p. 56) refers to Zmutt ; but
a few Hnes farther down and on the map to the eleventh book
(on the Valais) of Stumpf's work we find ' Mattal ' and ' Matt '
in the right places. Indeed the text gives quite a detailed
itinerary of the Zermatt vaUey, no doubt based on particulars
obtained by the author himself, during his joumey through N

178 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the Valais in the summer of 1544. (Aroleit was one of the four
quarters into which Zermatt was divided for purely local purposes
from 1476 to 1791 — the others being Hoff (the main hamlet),
Winkelmatt, and Muttero (Zmutt) — and is stUl the name of a
hamlet close to the foot of the Gorner Glacier.) ' Matt ' is also
marked on Konrad Tiirst's map of 1495-97, the earUest known
map of Switzerland, and the learned editor. Professor G. v.
Wyss, identifies it with Zermatt. As the name ' Zermatt ' or
' Matt ' does not appear in any of the Valais documents down
to 1375 pubUshed by the Abbe Gremaud, the viUage being
always, from the time it is first mentioned in a deed of sale
executed at Zermatt in 1280, and in the wUl (1285) of Norman
of Aosta, precentor of Sion, caUed Pra Borno or Prato Borno,
it must have come into existence at some time between 1368
(latest mention of Pra Borno) and 1495-97. It is no doubt
connected with the Teutonising of the vaUey, probably in the
early fifteenth century, and possibly in consequence of the
efforts then made by the Valais and Uri men to get possession of
some of the fertUe vaUeys to the south of the Alps. ' Praborgne,'
the old pre-Teutonic name, Hngered on tiU quite recently, and
was the name by which the vUlage was best known to EngUsh
traveUers forty or fifty years ago. ' Matt,' however, maintains its
ground in aU the editions of the ' DeHces ' (1714 to 1778), and was
Latinised by Simler as ' Mattia vaUis,' and ' pagus Matta.'
The 1848 ' Ebel ' has a ' revised article ' on Zermatt
which, as it does not occur in the 1818 French or in the
fifth (1828) editions, must have been inserted in the sixth
(1880) or seventh (1841) editions, possibly owing to interest
excited in the district by Von Welden's (1824) or Engelhardt's
(1840) descriptions.
50 It is worth noting that the name ' Matter ' or Matterhorn
was appUed to the pass into Italy before it came to mean the peak
exclusively. Sebastian Miinster (1543, p. 333 of the Basel edition
of 1550) gives the name of ' Mons Matter ' to the pass, marking
it as ' Augstalberg — Mons Sylvius,' on his map ofthe Valais, the
former of these two last names referring of course to Aosta.
Stumpf (1546, p. 660 of the 1606 edition) adopts in his text the

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books lyg
two names given on Miinster's map, marking ' Mons Sylvius '
only on his own map. Tschudi (died 1572) in his ' Gallia
Comata ' (p. 361) gives quite a detailed account of the pass,
which he calls ' Sylvius Mons,' though he adds that the Germans
caU it 'der Gletscher.' Sunler (1574, p. 56 of the 1633 edition)
mentions the name of Mons Sylvius only. Scheuchzer (p. 216 of
his 1716 book, pp. 290, 303 of his 1723 book) collects together aU
the names given by his predecessors — ' Sylvius Mons,' ' Austel-
berg,' and ' Gletscher,' adding, by a confusion pardonable at that
date, the new one of ' Eosa.' Gruner (1760, vol. i. pp. 226-80)
calls it ' Sylvius ' or ' Austelerberg,' and for the first time intro.
duces the name of ' Mattenberg.' In a letter written by him
from Naters on July 29, 1776 (see his 1778 book, vol. i. pp.
211-12), he speaks of ' SUvius, which is otherwise caUed Matten-
horn or Augstlerberg.' It is generally agreed that ' Cervin ¦ is
but another form of SUvius, and while it is certain that the
pass was originaUy called ' Mont Cervin ' or ' Mattenhorn,' it
is easy to see how this name, as in many similar cases, gradu
aUy came to be restricted to the highest point of the moun
tain mass over which the frequented pass lay, and a Matterjoch
comes to be distinguished from a Matterhorn. Thus in the
1804 ' Ebel ' the peak is given the three names — Sylvio, Mont
Cervin, and Matterhorn. The name St. Theodule is appUed
to the pass and to the redoubt on the crest of the col by De
Saussure, who says (vol. iv. p. 881) that it was thrown up 200 or
300 years before by the men of the vaUey of Aosta, and was
caUed the ' redoute de St. Theodule.' It is now known, however,
that this redoubt was thrown up by the Aostans in 1688 by
orders of the Duke of Savoy, in order to prevent the Vaudois or
Waldensians (who had taken refuge in Switzerland on their expul
sion in 1687 from their home in the Piedmontese vaUeys) from
recrossing the Alps. (See the evidence in Signor L. Vaccarone's
' Le Vie deUe Alpi OccidentaU,' Turin, 1884, pp. 73, 117-21.)
The pass was then called the St. Theodule, the name being pos
sibly taken from a rude wooden statue of that saint — the first
Bishop of Sion and patron of the Valais — which in 1691 existed
on the pass, having been placed there by the men of the Valais
H 2

i8o Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
'sous un motif de v^n^ration et de protection envers le dit
saint ' (ihid. p. 116). The existence of this statue is probably
the foundation of the tale related by Studer (' Ueber Eis und
Schnee,' vol. ii. p. 124) that according to a document of 1743 a
chapel dedicated to the saint was to be found on the pass. Thus
the name St. Theodule was probably given to the pass by the
Aostans, who would naturaUy speak of the inhabitants of upper
or episcopal Valais as the ' men of St. Theodule,' as vassals of
the Bishop of Sion, the successor of St. Theodule, who was the
patron of the Valais and of the pass. Hence SUvius, Cervin, St.
Theodule would be the names given to the pass by the Aostans,
whUe the Valaisans would rather speak of it as the ' Aosta or
Matt mountain ' or the Gletscher.
De Saussure (' Voyages dans les Alpes,' vol. iv. pp. 379-88,
389, 408-37) was apparently the first stranger to cross (on August
14, 1789) from BreU to Zermatt. He once again visited the pass
from the Breil side, spending three nights (August 11-14, 1792)
in a tent on the rocky crest, near the redoubt, and on August 13
made the first ascent of the Klein Matterhom ('Cime Brune
du Breithorn '). The first English party to cross the pass
accomphshed the feat in the summer of 1800, and call it ' Mont
Eose ' (like Scheuchzer) as weU as St. Theodule (' Alpine Jour
nal,' vol. vii. pp. 435-36).
51 On June 29, 1872, the Appenzell section of the Swiss
Alpine Club held a festival to inaugurate a simple memorial tab
let set up in honour of Ebel on the Ebenalpstock above Weissbad
in AppenzeU. This recognition of his work for Switzerland has
reference rather to his 1798 book than to that of 1793, in which
we are speciaUy interested in this paper.
52 The ' Manuel du Voyageur en Suisse ' par M. J. G.
Ebel (Langlois, Paris, about 1816 or 1817, 600 pages), the short
comings of which are so severely commented on in the preface
to the 1818 authorised Ziirich (French) edition of Ebel, is a
totaUy distinct production from Eichard's book. We are there
told that the work in question had left out aU the historical and
scientific matter of Ebel, besides the chapter on Hterature, the
glossary, the appendix on Eomansch, and aU maps and views.

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books i8i
Besides, the actual text was disfigured by many blunders and
omissions. Hence Ebel and his publishers formaUy disavow
this production, announcing that the Ziirich edition of 1810, in
four volumes, is alone authorised and authentic, and that the
present is a faithful reproduction of that edition, but in three
volumes, in order to render it more portable. I possess copies
of two editions (12mo.) of this unauthorised version, dated 1816 and
1824 respectively, but neither quite agrees with the description
given by the 1818 French translation of Ebel. Both contain
all the maps and views given by Ebel, and both have the glos
sary and the Eomansch appendix (the latter in an abridged
form) tacked on at the end. Both appropriate bodily the sub
stance of Ebel's title-page, and caU themselves translations from
the third and fifth editions respectively of his book. That of 1816
contains 674 pages, and explains that it has been enriched by
aU the additions and corrections of the fourth original edition
(though as the latter only appeared in 1818 this remark cer
tainly requires to be explained), and has been compressed into
a single volume, the original scheme of the author having been
faithfuUy preserved as weU as the geographical and topographi
cal portions of his work and his itineraries, though the historical
and geological details have been dispensed with. The 1824
edition contains 673 pages and purports to have been thoroughly
revised. It contains several additions — a geographical and sta
tistical account of the country taken from various recent French
works of travel by Picot, Eaoul-Eochette, and Simond, a section
on Swiss Botany, and a reprint (with several careless misprints)
of the titles of the books of travel enumerated by Ebel in his
BibUography, this last (it should be noticed) ending like Ebel's,
with ' Eugenia's Briefe ' issued in 1809 ! A compHment to Ebel
brings this pirated edition to a close.
It is a sign that Swiss travel was developing when we find
both Ebel and Eichard complaining of pirate publishers.
53 This in turn is largely taken from Pfarrer Kuhn's
excellent description of the Grindelwald valley, of which part
appeared in vol i. (pp. 1-26) of Albrecht Hopfaer's ' Magazin
fiir die Naturkunde Helvetiens ' (1787), the rest (to have been

1 82 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
devoted to the peaks south of the vaUey) never appearing,
probably because it had not been written or completed by the
author, who had died at an advanced age in 1788 at Grindel
wald. 54 Eichard's ' France ' was in some way absorbed into
Joanne's series, and is now being re-issued in five 16mo. parts
(3 or 4 francs a part) under the general title ' Guide du Voyageur
en France, par Eichard,' each part describing the course of one
of the five main railway systems in France. Part I. (relating
to the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean EaUway) contains pages
xiv, 155, besides an index of 32 more, containing, according to
Joanne's usual fashion, aU necessary information as to inns,.
raUways, steamers, and carriages, &c., as weU as 5 maps and
18 plans of towns. Eichard's ' Swiss Guide-book ' may very
possibly have been simUarly incorporated with Joanne, but I
have not succeeded in working out the relation of one to the
other. 55 See 'Alpine Journal,' vol. xiv. pp. 319-20.
56 See pp. 51, 115, of the Memoirs in vol. i. of Dr. WUUam
Smith's edition of the ' Decline and FaU.'
57 ' Voyages,' vol. iv. p. 33.
58 The following extract from Mr. L. Agassiz's ' Journey to
Switzerland' (1833, pp. 1-2) shows that M. Emery was stiU
the ' Cook ' of 1829, and iUustrates the way in which traveUers
reached Switzerland before raUways came in : —
' Having resolved to pay a visit to Switzerland, I considered
of various conveyances ; and at length contracted with Mr.
Emery, the proprietor of several coaches travelling after the
veturino fashion to that place and Italy. He agreed to take
myself and family, consisting of my wife, daughter, governess,
two infants, and two servants, to Lausanne, and find provisions,
wine, and lodgings on the road, being sixteen days en route, for
95?. I subjoin the contract, for the information of any of my
readers who may adopt a simUar plan : —
' " Je m'engage h. fournir une bonne voiture, pour conduire de
Londres 4 Lausanne, Monsieur  . avec deux dames, ime
jeune demoiselle, deux petits enfants, et deux domestiques; en

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 183
prenant k ma charge tous firais de route, savoir nourriture,
dejeuners, diners, soupera, au d^sir de la famille, avec le
meiUeur vin ordinaire, logements, passage de mer, fraix des
douanes, ponts, barrieres, chevaux de renforts ; pour la somme
de quatre-vingt-quinze Hvres sterling (95Z.). Monsieur, avec sa
famiUe, pourra rester deux jours k Paris pendant ce tems-lu,
sans payer autre chose que sa propre d^pense ; mais les loge
ments seront k ma charge. La famiUe aura quatre bons lits ;
et une chambre en particulier, pendant tout le voyage, pour
leurs repas, qui seront ordonnes par Monsieur  , s'il le
desire. La voiture sera entiferement k la disposition de la
famille de Monsieur. Le voyage se fera en seize jours de
marche. Le payement se fera, trente liv. avant le depart ;
trente Hv. k Paris ; et le reste k Lausanne : Entendu, que si
Monsieur  avoit des plaintes k faire sur mon entreprise, il
seroit en droit de diminuer le prix, selon le cas. Les domes
tiques des hotels, et le cocher, seront pay^s par Monsieur. — B.
Emery." ' N.B. — The bonnes inains to the servants, for my family, was
five francs a day at Calais and Paris, and four whUe travelling.
The coachman has 51. for the journey, if he behaves well; but
you have the power of punishing him by giving less, should he
at all misconduct himself.'
Under this arrangement Mr. Agassiz's party left London
by coach on April 6, 1829, slept at Dover, crossed to Calais
in two and a half hours next day, and on the 8th started in the
voiture (or rather its substitute). They reached Paris on April
11, and put up at the Hotel Britannique, in the Eue Louis le
Grand, the Hotel Dumini in the same street, whither M. Emery
had directed them, being fuU. They set out again on April 15,
and reached Lausanne on AprU 24, ha-^dng halted for the night
at Melun (when they at last met their own carriage), VUleneuve
la Guiard, Joigny, Lucy le Bois, Vitteaux, Dijon, Dole, SaUns,
and PontarUer. In aU probabiHty the journey may be taken as
an instance of the usual manner in which a middle-class family
commonly traveUed from England to Switzerland.
59 By ' the Eighers ' Byron means the Eiger and the

1 84 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books.
Monch, which were very commonly, though there are exceptions
to this rule, grouped together under one name imtil quite
recently. Scheuchzer (1723) and Altmann (1751) use Eiger as
meaning the peak which now exclusively bears that name.
With Gruner (1760) there comes a change. His evidence is
best seen on the map opposite p. 91 of vol. i., and inthe remarks
on pp. xxxiii and 93. On the former he marks three points thus
from E. to W. :—
(1) Eigers Breithorn oder die HornUn ( = the present Eiger-
Hornli) The map is rather
(2) Eigers (or Heigers) Sohneeberg | vague here, and it is
( = ? Eiger) -; doubtful to what point
(8) Eigers G eissberg ( = ? Monch) precisely these names
' apply.
In the text No. (2) is described as coming after a long rather
depressed ice wall, and as a high, broad, snow-covered and
rounded peak, ' on the south side of which are the KahUberg
[KaUiberg] pastures.' This would seem to point to the Eiger
proper, and it is so taken by Herr G. Studer (' Panorama von
Bern,' pp. 206, 211) ; No. (8) would then be the Monch. Pfarrer
Kuhn (1787) in his map marks the Hornlein, foUowed by
the MitteUegi, the Geisberg, and 'das schwarze Berglein,'
giving the name Eiger to the whole ridge ; the last of the three
names is near the position of the true Eiger, close to the point
where the Kl. Scheidegg ridge joins the main ridge, and
Geisberg is clearly here used in a pecuHar sense (unluckUy the
text describing the south side of the Grindelwald vaUey was
never completed).
Gruner and Wyss (1817) say that the whole chain was
formerly caUed Imiere Eiger or Hintereiger or simply Eiger,
Wyss adding the statement pecuHar to himself, that the Jung
frau was caUed Eigers Breithorn, a name generally reserved to
the Hornli, though Ebel gives it as an alternative for the
' Aussere Eiger.' Studer (ibid. p. 198) thinks that the name
Innere Eiger, &c., applied to the Jungfrau itself, but it would.

Notes o.v Sw/ss Guide-Books 185
strictly taken, seem to be given only to the whole ridge up to,
but exclusive of, the Jungfi-au itself.
Later we find the two peaks distinguished as the Aussere,
Vordere, or Gross Eiger ( = Eiger) and the Innere, Hintere,
Kleiner Eiger, or Gross Monch ( = Monch). This common
name with a distinctive prefix is used (though often indifferently
with ' Eiger ' and ' Monch ') by books of travel in general from
Coxe (1789) onwards, as weU as by the guide-book of Ebel,
foUowed by Eichard and ' The Travellers' Guide,' and by
Murray in the text though not in the panorama from Bern.
The latest occurrence that I have noticed is in the 1867
edition of Murray (I have not seen the 1868 one, and in 1872
it has disappeared), where (pp. 87-88) we read of the two
' Eighers,' of the ' Monch or Klein Eigher,' and of ' the Great
Eigher.' Herr G. Studer states (ubi supra, pp. 198-206) that the names
Eiger and Jungfrau occur as early as 1577 in Thomas Schopf 's
' Chorographia Ditionis Bernensis,' though apparently Jmig-
frauenhorn originaUy meant the Silberhorn ; whUe that of Eiger
is found in Eebman's poem of 1606 (p. 487 of the 1620 edition),
where the Jungfrau is also mentioned.
60 Leigh seems to have been the great publisher of Con
tinental guide-books (mainly translations into Enghsh) in those
days. Thus in the advertisements appended to his edition
(1819) of Eeichard's ' Itinerary of Germany and Hungary,' we
find Planta's ' New Picture of Paris ' (lis.) and ' Gazetteer of
France ' (5s.), Vasi's ' New Picture of Eome ' (12s.), ' Post Eoads
in France ' (8s.), Boyce's ' Belgian TraveUer ' (8s.), WaU's
'Ebel's TraveUer's Guide' (16s.), Eichard's 'Itinerary of
France and Belgium ' (8s.), and of ' Italy ' (10s. 6d.), Schxeiber's
'TraveUer's Guide down the Ehine ' (8s.), and Eomberg's 'New
Picture of Brussels ' (8s.). In the list there are mentions of
maps, of conversation books in various languages (including a
new edition of Madame de Genlis' ' Manuel du Voyageur ' or
' TraveUer's Pocket Companion,' 6s. 6d. to 9s. Gd.), catalogue
of pictures in the Louvre (4s.), the 'Art of Correspondence in
French and EngUsh ' (5s.), and ' The Tourist's Journal : con-

1 86 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
taining Euled Columns for the Expenses of each Day, and
suitable space for Observations ' (2s. 6t?.).
61 Mr. Wall speaks several times of ' the Grindelwald ' (pp.
99, 108, 323), though of the ' VaUey of Grindelwald,' and the
former phrase appears at least once (p. 337) in the 1835 edition
of the book. This suggests an interesting question as to the
origin of this name. It is aUowed on all hands that the first
syllable comes from ' Grindel ' (generaUy interpreted as mean
ing that which blocks or shuts off the vaUey fi:om the rest of
the world ; see a very interesting paper on this subject by Dr.
Schoch, of Ziirich — one ofthe editors ofthe great ' German-Swiss
Dialect Dictionary ' now in progress^- pubUshed in numbers
12-13, 1888 (pp. 48-50), of the periodical issued by Pfarrer
Strasser of Grindelwald, under the title of ' Der Gletscher-
mann '). The second is possibly derived firom ' vaUis ' (vaUey),
the popular view being that it is simply the German word
' Wald' (a wood). In the oldest documents (1146, 1180, 1220,
1246, 1252) we hear of land ' in Grindelwalt.' In 1275 we have
a change, ' in vaUe Grindelwalt.' Later the name is commonly
Latinised as 'in GrindeHa Valle,' e.g. by Scheuchzer (1723).
The ' DeHces de la Suisse ' (1714 and 1780) speak of ' le mont
Grindelwald,' whUe the later editions (1764, 1776, 1778) of the
same work mention ' la vaUee de Grindelwald.' Stumpf, in his
third edition (1606), uses the forms 'Grindelwald' and 'das
Lendle Grindel wal.' But there is throughout a curious current
of opinion — strong though not universal — in favour of 'le
Grindelwald ' or ' das Grindelwald.' On this side we find
Merian and ZeUler (1642), Scheuchzer (1716), Altmann (1751),
Gruner (1760 and 1778), Bourrit (1781 and 1785), De Mayer
(1784), Besson (1786), Kuhn (1787), Wyttenbach (1787), Meiners
(1788), Eobert (1790), Heidegger (1790 and 1796), Heinzmann
(1796)i Ebel (1804, 1809, 1818), Wyss (1817, in the French edition
only), Eichard (1824, 1830, 1843), Schweizer m his ' Faulhorn '
book (1882). On the other side we find that the article is omitted
by Archdeacon Coxe (four editions between 1779 and 1801), Pro
fessor Martyn's book of 1788 and also in the French version,
the ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse ' (1794), H. M.'s book (1810),
Konig (1814), Lord Byron (1816-17), Hugi (1830), Macgregor

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 187
(1837), aU editions of Miurray (1888 onwards), Ebel (1843), and
commonly after 1843.
I have made enquiries in the vaUey itself and find that it is
very commonly spoken of at the present time as ' das Grindel
wald.' If I might venture on a conjecture, I would suggest
that this survival of the article may point to the derivation of
the last syUable fi-om ' vaUis,' that is that ' the Grindelwald '
originaUy meant the ' vaUey of Grindelwald,' and that the
name ' Grindelwaldthal ' came into use only when the real
meaning of the ' wald ' had been forgotten. We find that whUe
in his French edition J. E. Wyss (' Voyage dans I'Oberland
Bernois,' vol. i. p. 198) speaks of ' le Grindelwald,' the German
text (vol. U. p. 596) has, ' das Grindelwaldthal.' The fact that the
feminine article is not used (as we might expect from the gender
of ' vaUis ') might be explained by the attractive force of ' wald '
( = forest), or by supposing that ' le Grindelwald ' was taken to
be a shortened form of ' das Grindelwaldthal.' Mr. A. J. Butler
suggests to me that the name may (like ' Bregenzerwald ') mean
a hilly district at the foot of the higher mountains. I should
prefer, however, to take the last syUable of ' Grindelwald ' as
representing ' vaUis ' in some way not now to be ascertained,
comparing the cases of the ' Waldstatten ' (commonly translated
the ' Forest Cantons,' but meaning historicaUy the vaUeys round
the lake of Lucerne), Unterwald (commonly said to refer to the
position of the vaUey with regard to the Kernwald, but probably
meaning ' vaUis inferior,' for though on the seal of the great
alHance of 1291 the men of Nidwald are described as the men
of Stanz, the other part of the district, Obwald, is called ' vallis
superior '), and Valais or WaUis (which in old days was certainly
known as the ' VaUis Poenina,' the derivation of the name from
' Walsch ' — or non-Teutonic — being ingenious but of quite recent
date). But though my attempts at explanation are purely con
jectural, certain it is that ' le Grindelwald' is found as a name
for the vaUey at many different dates between 1642 and 1889.
It is weU known that the name ' Grindelwald ' appHes to the
vaUey only, and does not designate (except in tourist language)
any one hamlet in it.
62 Ebel mentions a passage by M. de Bottens, a Lausanne

1 88 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
pasteur, in 1742, from Kandersteg to Lauterbruimen, but adds
that now the glaciers have so increased that even chamois
hunters rarely take this way. Bourrit (vol. i. chapter 20 of his
' Description des Alpes ' and ' Description des Glacieres ') gives
a long account of this expedition, which took place on August
17, 1742 (a horse being apparently taken all the way !), but
expressly says that he did not himself attempt the passage.
63 It must be recoUected that up to 1850-1851 nearly every
canton had its own money and rate of exchange. The various
coins mentioned above have been reduced to French francs, by
taking a louis d'or (of 4 crovsTis) to be equivalent to 23'53 ' fi:ancs
de France,' 16 Swiss francs, or 10 florins. A Swiss firano was
worth nearly one and a half French francs.
64 By the seventh edition (1856) Murray was able to say
that ' at present there are not many traces of the original work
of Ebel ' in the Handbook, a phrase which is stUl in the tenth
edition (1863) but not in the twelfth edition (1867), from which
time the name of Ebel no longer occurs in the preface to
Murray. 65 Those who are speciaUy interested in the French and
Italian Alps south of Mont Blanc wUl find many most interest
ing detaUs regarding these districts in the earUer editions of
Murray's ' Switzerland.'
66 To complete the bibliography of Murray, I add the years
in which the editions between those mentioned and the sixteenth
came out. The eighth appeared in 1858, the ninth in 1861
(much revised and many additions made to the Alpine sections,
while plans of the chief towns were now given for the first time),
the tenth in 1863, the eleventh ni 1865, the twelfth m 1867, the
thirteenth in 1868, the fourteenth in 1872 (' for the most part
remodeUed, and an addition of nearly one-third new matter '
introduced), and the fifteenth in 1874. Probably many of these
editions were mere reprints, without any material alterations in
the text. I possess no fewer than fom-teen of these seventeen
editions. I should be very glad to complete my set by the pur
chase of the three missing volumes, one of which (1852) I
have been able to consult, the two others (1865 and 1868) hav-

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 189
ing hitherto entirely eluded me. I am much indebted to Mr.
Murray for courteously communicating to me much information
as to his Swiss Handbook, the issue of which is one of the chief
landmarks in the history of guidebooks to Switzerland. As a
curiosity I may just mention an 1844 edition of Murray in plain
black cover, which was pubUshed in English by it Maison (the
publisher of Eichard's guide, as we have seen) m Paris ; it is
apparently a reprint of the 1842 edition, with ftsF^SO-pages of
addenda, including the new regulations of 1838 and 1842, as to '
the Chamonix guides, mules, &c.
67 Mr. Murray has kindly informed me that he had nothing
to do with a book by a namesake of his (with the initials of
many learned societies after his name), which was pubUshed in
London by Longman in 1829 (12mo. pp. xi, 282), under the title
of ' A Glance at some of the Beauties and Sublimities of Swit
zerland.' It describes a ten weeks' journey made in 1828.
68 See the obituary notice of the author, ' Alpine Journal,'
xUi. 337.
69 Ibid. vol. V. p. 382. ,.
70 It was in 1882 that Monsieur E. Topffer, of Geneva, under
took his first ' Voyage en Zigzag ' with his schoolboys, and thus
popularised an amusement previously limited to the scholars of
viUage schools.
71 See on M. Joanne, ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. pp. 231-33
(where the date of the editio princeps of his Swiss guide-book is
wrongly stated as 1845), and 'Annuaire du C. A. F.,' 1880, pp.
xui-xxiv. 72 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. p. 52 ; vol. xiii. pp. 281-83.
78 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xu. p. 274.
74 See recent vols, of the ' Echo des Alpes ' and the ' S. A. C.
Jahrbuch.' 75 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. pp. 284-35.
76 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xii. pp. 219-40, 300-18. It is
very hard to resist the temptation to trace out once more the very
curious and interesting history of the various glacier theories
which have prevaUed from time to time. It wUl be found narrated
in detail in chapter vi. of Prof. Heim's work, and more gene-

IQO Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
rally (down to 1815) also in Herr Studer's work (pp. 170, 195-96
266, 346-54, 560-70, and see his index, s. v. Gletscher). The
earher theories are also sketched by Mr. Freshfield (' Alpine
Journal,' vol. viii. Appendix, pp. 89-41).
77 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xii. pp. 472-76.
78 See ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xiii. pp. 51-52.
79 See Von HaUer, vol. i. pp. 368-71, and Studer, p. 166.
•.'80 A partial exception is the case of Herr GottUeb Studer,
who in his ' Ueber Eis und Schnee ' (1869-88) has written the
history of the Swiss Alps. ^^ y
81 Messrs. Longmans, the pubHshers ofthe 'Alpine Guide,'
have most courteously communicated to me the following detaUs
as to the various issues of the Introduction and of the book
itself in various shapes and slightly modified recensions, the
1882-84 issues being merely reprints of the preceding edition
without any corrections.
(1) Introduction, 1864, 1866, 1870, 1873, 1875, 1877, and
1888.
(2) Western Alps, 1863, 1866, 1870, 1873, 1877, and 1884.
(3) Central Alps, 1864, 1866, 1869, 1870, 1873, 1876, and
1882.
(4) Eastern Alps, 1868, 1869, 1870, 1874, and 1879.
The entire work was first issued in separate sections, clothed
in the weU-known green covers, in the year 1873. The first
section published in this form was the ' South Western Alps,'
whUe the latest was the ' Pennine Alps ' in 1878.
82 An enormous amount of most valuable information as
to the Alpine history of the chief mountain districts of Svsdtzer-
land lies buried in the 'Itinerarium fiir das Excursions-Gebiet
des S. A. C.,' issued by the Swiss Alpine Club for the use of its
members who proposed to visit the special district selected for
exploration. This was pubhshed from 1868 to 1882 in the shape
of a systematic history of each peak or pass in the district. In
1886 the S. A. C. resolved to adopt another plan, and to henceforth
issue only a classified index to the Uteratur e of the special district.
As these pamphlets seem to be but little known outside the
S. A. C, and as I have found by experience that much informa-

Notes on Swiss Guide-Books 191
tion therein contained has not yet been utiUsed (though, of
course, Herr GottUeb Studer in his ' Ueber Eis und Schnee '
has largely used them as far as they had appeared up to that
time), I think it worth while to give a list of them, indicatin.g
the district described, and the year in which it was to be ex
plored, generally corresponding with the year of issue. 1868 :
Col de CoUon to Lyskamm. 1869 : Lyskamm to Monte Leone.
1870: Bmnenthal. 1871: St. Gotthard group. 1872: vPiz
Vah-hem group. 1873 : The Alps of Tessm. 1874 : Biindner
Oberland. 1875 : The Alps of Unterwalden and Uri. 1876-77 :
Todi-Sardona group. 1878-79: Bernina district. 1880-81 : Dia
blerets and WUdhom district. 1882-84 : Bernese Oberland
west of the Finsteraarhorn (see additions in ' Jahrbuch des
S. A. C.,' vol. xviu. pp. 3-16). The only parts as yet published
underthe new arrangement are those for 1885-87 (with some addi
tions in a separate pamphlet issued with the maps and panoramas
of vol. xxui. of the ' Jahrbuch '), Herr von Fellenberg's detaUed
index to the Hterature relating to the Western Bernese Alps
(' Alpine Journal,' vol. xiii. p. 194), and for 1888 on the Graue
Homer-Calanda district. Portions of all these excellent sum
maries, with the exception of the first three and last three, have
appeared in the ' Jahrbuch des S. A. C.,' but many most valuable
hints and nearly aU references to the literature of the subject
have been left out.
83 See an interesting document giving the history,- cost, &c.,
of the piercing of this tunnel, printed in the ' Geschichtsfreund,'
vol. 42, 244^50.
84 Scheuchzer crossed the pass in 1705 and 1709, and it is
worth whUe comparing his description of the old track (' Itin.
Alp.' pp. 316, 484) with those of the new path given by Coxe (1801
edition, vol. i. pp. 394-96), who crossed in 1776 and 1785, and by
Bourrit (1781 book, vol. i. pp. 132-33). The contrast between the
two roads is weU shown by the engravings in the 1714, 1730, 1778
editions of the ' Delices de la Suisse ' (vol. iv. pp. 720-21, that
given by Scheuchzer in the narrative of his 1705 journey) and
in the 1764 and 1776 editions of the same book (vol. iv. p. 178).
It is said that before 1737 the path from the Dauben See bore

192 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
nearly due east up the FurkenthaU and led down to the Baths
by way of the Clavinen Alp and the Dala Valley (see the
present Federal map) ; but the engravings in the ' DeUces ' of
1764 and 1776 do not seem to bear out this statement.
85 There are but two higher carriage roads in Europe — those
over the Stelvio Pass (9,042 or 9,056 feet according to the most
recent surveys) and the Col du Galibier in Dauphine (8,721 feet).
The Mont Cenis road attains a height of 6,685 feet.
86 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. viii. Appendix, p. 47 n.
87 Bordier's Christian names are given by Herr Studer
(p. 418) as 'Louis Cesar,' but according to M. TheophUe
Dufour (' WUliam Windham et Pierre Martel,' separate reprint,
J). 9, n. 1) they really were 'Andre Cesar.' Von HaUer (vol.
i. p. 449, No. 1485) teUsusthatthemistakeofattributingBordier's
book to Bourrit was made by the author of one of the German
translations of this work issued in 1775. (See too note 34 above.)
Von HaUer himself rightly gives the authorship to Bordier,
but cites an EngUsh translation (Norwich, 1775), which is none
other than the weU-known translation of Bourrit's book, ' De
scription des Glacieres, Glaciers et Amas de Glace du Duche de
Savoye ' (1773, 8vo. 137 pages), by Messrs. C. and F. Davy, a
copy of the second edition of which is in the Alpine Club Lib
rary. In 1863 Herr Studer (pp. 418, 518) gives Bordier his due,
though Mr. BaU does not mention Bordier or his book at aU
in the list of books in his Introduction to the ' Alpine Guide.'
Bourrit complains (in his Preface) that Bordier had made his
journey furnished with a MS. copy of Bourrit's description, and
that, in consequence of this sharp practice, he (Bourrit) was
obliged to hasten the publication of his book, for Bordier had
only spent a week on his journey, and had seen but a single
glacier. 88 The monastery, possibly then situated in Bourg S.Pierre,
is first mentioned about 812 — ' monasterium quod est situm in
monte Jovis ' (Gremaud, ' Documents relatifs k I'histoire du
Vallais,' vol. i. p. 21). We read about 842-49 of ' monasterium
S. Petri quod ad radicem montis situm est ' {ibid. vol. i. p. 26) ;
and about 851 of Hartmann, ' elemosinarius Sancti Petri Montis

Notes on Swiss In.\s and Huts 193
Jovis ' (ibid. vol. i. p. 27), though perhaps both these mentions
refer to the house in Bom-g S. Pierre. In 839 we hear of the
' hospitale quod est hi Monte Jovis ' (ibid. vol. i. p. 28), and in
1011 of the gift of the abbacy ' montis Jovensis sancti Petri ' (ibid.
vol. i. p. 54). S. Bernard of Menthon (see note 4 above) re-
founded, on the crest of the col, this early house. In 1125 we
find mention made in two documents of the ' ecclesia sancti
Nicolai Montis Jovis' (ihid. vol. i. pp. 77-78), ni 1145 of the
' hospitale de Monte Jovis ' {ibid. vol. i. p. 85) ; finaUy about 1154
of 'hospitium 'Bwnhajidi., Bianhards .spitala. in monte situm,'
as weU as of 'hospitium Petri, Petrsspitali,' or Bourg S. Pierre
{ihid. vol. i. p. 87), and in 1158 of the ' ecclesia S. Nicolai et S.
Bernardi de Monte Jovis ' (ibid. vol. i. p. 94). An abbot is men
tioned in 812,- but from 1154 (ibid. vol. i. p. 91) onwards the
head is a 'propositus,' thus showing that by that time the house
was probably in the hands ofthe Austin Canons Eegular, who have
certainly held it since 1215. I have not been able to ascertain
the date at which the present hospice was built, though it is later
than the great fire of 1555 (P. Laurenz Burgener, ' Der heUige
Bernhard von Menthon,' p. 165), but the present church dates
from 1686 (Eatti and Casanova, ' Guida lUustrata della VaUe
d'Aosta,' p. 249).
Father Burgener (op. cit. 130) says that the name ' mons
sancti Bernardi Major ' is found as early as the thirteenth
century. There are at present a prior and about a dozen canons
in residence, the provost or chief of the Order living in the
mother house at Martigny.
89 The house here is said to have been founded by S. Ber
nard of Menthon, who Hved in the tenth, more probably in the
eleventh century. Signor Vaccarone (' Le Vie deUe Alpi Occi
dentaU,' 1884, p. 48) says that in the eleventh, twelfth, and
thirteenth centuries it is caUed 'hospitale columnse Jovis ' and
' domus montis columnse Jovis ' (from the column — the ' colonne
Joux' — stiU standing), and that in 1181 for the first time it is
named ' domus sancti Bernardi montis Jovis.' Later the former
name was used to distinguish it from the Great S. Bernard, on
which it was dependent certainly in 1466, probably before.

194 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
About the middle of the eighteenth century, the hospice and its
property was handed over to the mUitary order of SS. Maurice
and Lazarus, which is now represented by the ' Eector,' who has
under his orders various servants, &c. (Eatti and Casanova,
op. cit. 343). In 1500 the pass was caUed 'Mont Jouvet,' to
distinguish it from ' Mont Joux ' or the Great S. Bernard.
90 The hospice is first mentioned in 1235 as ' domus hospi-
talis de Semplon,' belonging at that time to the Knights of S.
John of Jerusalem (the Hospitallers), and governed by a
' magister ' (Vaccarone, 43), though by tradition founded by a
prince of the house of Savoy (Gremaud, vol. i. p. 319). In 1246
and 1252 it is caUed ' hospitale sancti Johannis de CoUibus
de Semplon ' (ibid. vol. i. pp. 387, 478) ; though some read ' Sancti
Jacobi ' in aU three cases, for that is said to have been its dedi
cation. It was governed by the Knights HospitaUers of the
commandery of Conflans, but was suppressed in 1470. In 1653
it was granted by the men of Brieg to Gaspard Stokalper, who
rebuilt the hospice in the shape of a tower, which stUl exists
and stUl belongs to that famUy. The new hospice was founded in
1802 by Napoleon, after the new road was undertaken (1800-5),
but was not begun tiU 1811, and only finished in 1825-38,
by the Austm Canons of the Great S. Bernard, to whom Napo
leon had handed it over, and four of whom now serve it (see
appendix to M. F. de Gingins la Sarraz's ' Developpement de
rindependance du Haut-VaUais,' p. 74 ; Abbe Eameau's ' Le
VaUais Historique,' p. 110; and Furrer's ' Geschiehte von WaUis,'
vol. u. p. 68).
91 The chapel on this pass is traditionally beUeved to
have been built by Azzo of Milan (who reigned 1329-39),
though probably this was only a restoration. The first docu
mentary mention of it occurs in 1831, as ' ecclesia Sancti
Gothardi ' (see original text in ' Geschichtsfreund,' vol. xii. p.
70). We learn that in 1431 the hospice belonged to the parish
of Airolo, and was but a poor buUding. In 1496 mention is
made of a lay brother who managed it. But this accommoda
tion was quite insufficient. Hence S. Charles Borromeo, the
great archbishop of MUan, who in 1560 had personally experi-

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 195
enced inconvenience on the pass, determined to place there a
priest of the order of Oblates, and set aside au annual endow
ment of one hundred thalers for that purpose. His death
took place (1584) before his scheme was carried out. His
successor at MUan, however, in 1602 sent a priest of that
Order to Hve on the pass, and Uri built (1628-29) a house for
him. But this . foundation soon came to an end, for between
1648 and 1688 the house was unoccupied. In 1688 the then
archbishop of MUan, and Uri, agreed to restore it, and to build
another house for travellers of a higher class, the charge of both
being committed to two Capuchin friars. This new scheme
lasted a considerable time, and though on April 10, 1775, an
avalanche carried away the chapel and stables, they were
rebuUt on a much larger scale by means of a public subscription
(the hospice proper did not suffer fi:om the avalanche). Several
of the older books of travel give accounts of the Capuchins and
their house. De Saussure was there in 1775 and in 1783, his
ascents in the neighbourhood greatly amazing the friars (vol. iv.
pp. 30, 34). Speaking of his second visit he says : ' Je trouvai les
Capucins toujours officieux et empresses envers les Strangers.
lis commencent k s'accoutumer k voir des etrangers qui ^tudient
les montagnes. Dans mon premier voyage, en 1775, Us crurent
que c'etoit chez moi une esp^ce de foHe. lis dirent k quel-
qu'un de ma connoissance, qui passa chez eux peu de tems apres
moi, que je paroissois d'un bon caraot^re, mais qu'U etoit
bien malheureux que j'eusse une manie aussi ridicule que ceUe
de ramasser toutes les pierres que je rencontrois, d'en remplir
mes poches et d'en charger des mulets ' (vol. iv. p. 28). Things
had, however, improved by 1783, for De Saussure, expressing his
regret at leaving the pleasant society of Fathers Lorenzo and Carlo
(the latter of whom was the younger, ' et se disoit txhs-amen-
turoso dans les montagnes'), adds, 'lis commencent, comme
je I'ai dit, k oonnoitre les fossUes de leur montagne ; Us me
donn^rent quelques joUs morceaux d'adulaire ' (vol. iv. p. 37). In
the next paragraph he gives a hint to future visitors : ' Lorsqu'on
s'est arrete chez' eux, Us ne donnent point le compte de la
depense qu'on a faite ; mais on I'^value soi-meme sur le pied
o 2

196 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
de ce qu'on auroit paye dans une bonne auberge, et on laisse
ostensiblement sur son assiette ce k quoi Ton s'est taxe.' In
1775 he met at the hospice Mr. GreviUe, the celebrated mineral
ogist, who was taking a carriage over the pass for the first time
on record. Next year (August 9, 1776) Archdeacon Coxe spent
the night at the Capuchins' house, and has given the foUow
ing accoimt of his stay (1801 edition, vol. i. p. 337) : ' We are now
lodged at a house inhabited by two Italian friars from the con
vent of Capuchins at Milan, who receive aU strangers that pass
through these inhospitable regions. One of the friars is ab
sent, so that I am in possession of his bedchamber : it is a snug
little room, where a man may sleep very weU without being
an anchorite, and which, after the fatigues of our journey, I
enjoy with a satisfaction much too sensible to envy the luxm-y
of a palace. Our host has just supplied us with a dinner, con
sisting of delicious trout, with which the neighbouring lake
of Locendro abounds, eggs, and mUk, together with exceUent
butter and cheese ; both made in this dreary spot. Upon our
arrival we were rejoiced to find a good fire ; the weather being
so exceedingly cold, that I, who was only clad in a thin camlet
coat, entered the house half frozen.' Coxe was there again in
August 1785, and his account then is also worth transcribing (vol.
i. pp. 341-42) : ' On my entrance into the little plain in which the
friar's house is situated, although the air was exceedingly keen,
I did not experience that piercing cold which I felt in 1776 ;
but the day was fine and the sun shone unclouded. When we
arrived at the house the firiar was saying mass to an audience
of about twenty persons, many of whom come from the neigh
bouring alps, where they are tending cattle, to divine service
on Sundays and festivals. At the conclusion of mass, the friar,
whose name is Francis, immediately recoUected, and received
me with great satisfaction. He is well known to aU travellers
that pass this way, having already inhabited this dreary spot
above twenty years. Since my last expedition, he has consider
ably enlarged his house, and rendered it extremely commodious.
It contams at present, besides several sitting-rooms, kitchens, and
an apartment for the family, nine small but neat bedchambers

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 197
appropriated to traveUers. The expense of this addition has
aheady amounted to 300Z., part of which he collected in various
districts of Switzerland ; an equal sum is required to discharge
the present debts, and to make the further necessary improve
ments, which he hopes to procure by another coUection.' He
showed his guest about very obUgingly and communicated to
him his meteorological observations, which we learn from Ebel
he continued untU the year 1792.
De Mayer in 1784 (vol. i. pp. 300-1) was very hospitably en
tertained by Friar Lawrence, who was then alone, as his com
panion had abandoned him through disgust of the solitary and
hard life he was forced to lead. 'II y a un Hopital pour les
malades et pour les Voyageurs du commun. Les Moines ont
des chambres reservees aux personnes distingu^es. . . . Les
Etrangers bien nes lui (sc. au Frfere) donnent la somme qu'ils
jugent k propos ; U ne demande rien, mais il se place k\& porte
pour reoevoir. On est proprement servi et passablement
couche.' Bourrit's account is very querulous, not to say more (1781
book, vol. ii. pp. 54-55) : 'Nous arrivames k I'hospice des
Capucins k I'heure de leur diner : on pourrait croire que cette
maison est ime imitation du couvent du grand Saint-Bernard ;
mais on se tromperoit beaucoup, cet hospice est simplement une
petite chapeUe ou les voyageurs peuvent entendre la messe : on y
voit une maison habitee par deux Pferes, qui ne sont pas \k pour
secourir et soigner les passagers, comme il seroit k souhaiter ;
mais Us croient avoir rempH leur vocation quand Us ont chante
rOffice. A cote de cette maison, I'on en voit une autre qui
est une espfece d'auberge ou les voyageurs s'arretent ; elle est
pire que le Spital du mont Grimsel. Un des Capucins parle
Fran5ois et ItaUen, I'autre AUemand : en conversant avec le
premier sur les divers passages des Alpes, je lui peignis le bel
^tabUssement du couvent du grand Saint-Bernard. " Cela pent
etre," me dit-il ; "mais le notre est un hospice d'ames." Cette
destination toute spirituelle leur vaut encore de 1 'argent, soit par
les coUectes qu'Us font chaque annee, soit par la gen^rosite du Eoi
de France. Aujourd'hui qu'Us sont assez bien en revenus, Us

198 Swiss Tr.avel and Guide-Books
les emploient k I'agrandissement de leur maison qu'ils reb4tis-
sent : U faut esp^rer que quand les almes seront passablement
bien logees, I'on pensera k mettre plus k I'aise les voyageurs.
Au reste le Capucin Francois nous a paru avoir I'usage du monde,
il eut la politesse de.nous conduire k la descente vers I'ltalie.'
Ebel (French translation of the 1809-10 edition, vol. in. p, 141)
states more accurately the real objects with which the Capuchins
lived on the pass : ' Les fonctions des Capucins consistent k aUer
au secour s des voyageurs lorsqu'Us ont quelque danger k courir sur
la route, k leur donner les soins necessaires et a dire la messe.'
During the troubles of 1799 and 1800, the hospice was pUlaged
and its inhabitants driven out, the main part of the buUdings
being also torn down and burnt up by a French outpost. In
1800 the parish of Airolo buUt a miserable hut for the men
charged with the care of the goods passing over the pass. A
new hospice was built in 1884 by the parish of Airolo and is
now superintended by two lay managers, with a chaplain, who,
besides his religious duties, keeps a meteorological register. It
is supported by voluntary offerings. Near it is the good Hotel
Monte Prosa, opened in 1867. (For the history of the hospice
consult ' Jahrbuch des S. A. C vol. vH. pp. 80-84, where many
references are given, and the Ebels of 1809 and 1818 under
' Gotthard, S.')
92 The spring at Pfaffers was known as early as 1242 (possibly
even in 1038), but the first bathhouse was not buUt tiU the days
of Abbot John (1362-86), head ofthe great Benedictine monastery
there (founded c. 720), for on Jan. 25, 1882, we find the monks
granting a ten years lease of half the bath to the two brothers
Camauritzi, on condition that they are to be responsible for aU
buildings then standing or to be put up in their half (see the
Eegister ofthe Abbey, No. 282,p. 40,in K. Wegelin' sedition, 1850,
included in ' Die Eegesten der Archive in der Schweiz. Eidgenos
senschaft '). This was reconstructed' in 1420. A new bath and a
new inn were built in 1630, and are shown in the engraving
given by Merian (1642) (see Peyer, ' Geschiehte des Eeisens in
der Schweiz,' pp. 61-3).
93 The pass of the Grimsel has been certainly known since

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts igg
at least 1211, when Berchthold V., Duke of Zaringen, crossed it
to make a foray on the men of the Valais. In the early sixteenth
century Sebastian Miinster thus describes it (Basel edition of
1550, p. 338) : ' Non procul a Furca est mons alius quem
Grimsslen vocant, per quem quoque exitus in Helvetian! de
Valesia inventus est, sed qui absque sudore et labore magno
superari non potest.'
The earUest recorded mention of any inn there occurs in
1479, when the right of levying a toU on passers-by was granted
to the tenant (A. von TUHer's ' Geschiehte des eidgenossischen
FreistaatesBern,'vol.U.p. 562). Stumpf spent the nightof August
26-27, 1544, there, and caUs it a ' Spittal.' The house was
rebuUt in 1557, and again after the fire on November 6, 1852,
due to the criminal intentions of the landlord, Zybach. I have
not been able to ascertain that the hospice was ever strictly
speaking a reUgious foundation : from 1544 onwards it has been
the property of the district of Hash, the authorities of which
are bound to keep it open aU the year round.
Stumpf s brief account of his 1544 journey over the Grimsel
wUl be found on p. 240 of vol. vi. (1884) of the ' Quellen zur
Schweizer Geschiehte,' issued by the AUgemeine Geschichtfor
schende GeseUschaft der Schweiz,' and is reprinted thence on p.
432 ofthe ' Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclub,' vol. xix. I can
not refi:ain from giving a translation of the fuller description of
the hospice given by Stumpf in his Chronicle (1546, p. 547
of the 1606 edition) : ' On the shore of this lake there is an
inn and hospice, buUt to shelter wanderers, and caUed " Zum
Spital." A very bad lodging place it is, for they are obUged to
bring Ume and wood thither on the backs of horses ; stones are
cheap there ; no wood grows there of the usual height, except
the wood which is brought up by the packhorses. The folk of
Hasle maintain this hospice, appointing a landlord and guardian
(Spitalmeister) who has the exclusive use of the house. He
suppUes wanderers with food and drink in return for payment,
and to those who have not the means of paying he gives bread
and victuals for God's sake. It is a bad inn, but one commonly
finds good wine there, which the owners of packhorses bring over

200 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the mountains fi-om the Val d'Ossola and the Valais, and good
bread, which is brought up from Hasle, a long twelve mUes away ;
cheese, meat, and whatever else one has to live on, must all be
brought up thither. In winter time, for several months, the land
lord and guardian cannot remain up there, and has to go down
to the valley below.'
Archdeacon Coxe spent the night of August 11-12, 1776 (as
weU as that of August 29-30, 1786) at the Grimsel hospice,
which he describes as a ' sohtary hovel.' ' It made so bad an
appearance at first sight, that we concluded we should get
nothing to eat : but we were very agreeably disappointed ; as we
have found in this desert spot all the accommodations we coiUd
wish for, except beds, and these are the less necessary after the
sound sleep we had last night [at Miinster, in the Upper Valais].
Not to mention exceUent cheese, butter and milk (our ordinary
fare), we got some good wine, a smaU portion of kid, and a
boUed marmot, which we have just devoured, although at
another time we should have revolted at the very idea.' He
complains in his next letter that during his lught in the hayloft
at the Grimsel, he suffered so much from cold ' as scarcely to
sleep one minute.' His whole account ofthe pass is weU worth
reading (1780 edition, pp. 154-5; 1801 edition, i. 353, 863).
Bourrit (1781 book, vol. ii. pp. 16, 17, 32) caUs the hospice ' une
maison aussi simple qu'il est possible, mais utUe aux voyageurs,'
but complains bitterly of the rooms and beds, not hesitating to
name it ' I'asyle le plus repoussant qui existe dans les mon-

94 The baths were known in Eoman times, and came into
fashion again from 1402 onwards. In 1484 Jost of SUenen,
bishop of Sion, built a bathhouse. In 1501 Cardinal Schinner
buUt two new baths and three inns, reaUy ' creating ' the place,
but most of these buildings were destroyed by a great avalanche
in 1518. Sebastian Miinster (pp. 346-7 of the Basel edition of 1550)
says that the vUlage consisted of ' aliquot hospicia et domus
cum sacello,' and gives an elaborate account of the baths, with
a most curious and remarkable illustration of the establishment.

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 201
Another avalanche overwhelmed the baths in 1719 (Peyer, pp.
66-67). It slowly rose fi-om its ruins again in the course of the
eighteenth centurj-. Hence the descriptions given by Coxe in
1776, and by Bourrit (1781 book), are not favourable so far as the
inns are concerned. The former says (1801 edition, vol. i. p. 397) :
' The accommodations for the company are very inconvenient :
each person having for his own use a smaU apartment not more
than a few feet square, in which there is just room for a bed, a
table and two chairs. The public dining-room is upon a larger
scale, as is also an apartment where the company occasionaUy
assemble. Formerly (sc. before 1719) the accommodations were
tolerably good.' The latter (vol. i. p. 128) vreites : ' Les maisons du
vUlage sont presque toutes de bois, excepte une ou deux qui sont
en pierre ; les plus beUes sont destinees k loger les etrangers :
on n'y trouve pas non plus toutes les commodites des autres
bains, le pays ne sauroit les fournir ; et I'on y est trop expose
aux avalanches de neiges, pour oser y faire de grands etab-
Ussemens.' The first edition of Ebel (1793) says (vol. ii. p. 102)
that the accommodation for visitors was ' herzlich schlecht,'
though the baths themselves were good and much firequented,
nor do later editions give a much better account of things, until
that of 1823, which (vol. i. p. 284) specially recommends the
Maison Blanche. Even in the first edition of Murray (1838, p. 10)
things were not much better, for though the ' Maison Blanche '
is mentioned as the best inn and good, it is stated that all the
houses were of wood (except that inn), and abandoned fi-om
October to May.
95 When Pococke and Windham, the forerunners of thou
sands of later travellers, made their famous visit to Chamonix in
June 1741, they advanced as into an enemy's country, carrying
their camp equipage with them and setting up theu- tents on tbe
banks of the Arve. This we learn from the original accounts of
the journey, whether in the French or the EngUsh versions ; and
these facts are confirmed by the later narratives of Bom-rit (1773)
and of De Saussure. Albert Smith, however, gives (end of chap
ter iii. of his ' Story of Mont Blanc ') quite a different account
of their lodgings : ' It may be mentioned here that the present

202 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Hotel de Londres is the oldest establishment in the Valley. It
dates from the time of Pococke and Windham. These two
traveUers rested in a little cabaret, owned by Jean Pierre Tairraz,
grandfather of the present innkeeper, M. Edouard Tairraz.
There was no sign to this humble hostel, but merely a bush hung
over the door, and Mr. Windham suggested that the name
" Hotel de Londres " should be painted up. This was done, and
it attracted most of the EngHsh visitors who did not find quarters
vsdth the cure. One of the Couterans opposed Jean Tairraz,
caUing his house " Hotel d'Angleterre," but finaUy Tairraz com
bined the two names into one, as it now stands.' There seems
to be absolutely no warrant for any of these statements (except
the last), and the English text of Windham's narrative which
Albert Smith gives directly contradicts them. Yet they have
been accepted by Mr. WUHam Longman in his papers on
' Modern Mountaineering' ('Alpine Journal,' vol. vUi. Appendix,
p. 4), and by M. Durier in his excellent book on ' Mont Blanc '
(2nd edition, p. 64).
De Saussure tells us that on his first visit to the vaUey in
1760 he found no passable inn, but only some wretched ca
barets, and that the rare traveUers (generaUy English) who ap
peared on the scene were lodged at the cure's. This state
of things, he adds, went on for four or five years longer, but
later (by 1786), when the journey became the fashion, large and
good inns were necessarUy buUt and barely sufficed to lodge aU the
visitors who then flowed into the valley. Bordier in 1772 found
no inn, and had to seek hospitality from the cure, but Bourrit,
writing in the same year concerning his earher visits, speaks of
one built some years before, which was kept by ' au honest care
ful widow,' and offered satisfactory quarters (1773 book, p. 30 ;
English translation, p. 57). De Saussure, writing m 1779 (vol. i.
p. 434), speaks very highly of this widow, Madame Couteran, who
received aU the strangers coming to see the glaciers, and who
could also dispose of beds at her son-in-law, M. Chariot's.
[In 1783 there were 1,500 visitors at Chamonix in the course
of the season (Durier, p. 96). We learn from Ebel (1809) that as
early as 1780-92 there were annually from 800 to 1,200 visitors
seen in the vaUey.]

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 203
Bourrit in his 1785 (vol. iU. p. 48) and 1808 (vol. i. p. 28)
books endorses this opinion, laying special stress on the beautiful
rooms she had built, the clean beds in her house, and the excel
lent table ; he adds that there were two other inns in the vUlage,
which, according to il. Durier (p. 96), were kept by Simond and
Jean Pierre Tairraz, the former being probably the ' Union,' and
the latter, no doubt, the ' ViUe de Londres ' referred to by Albert
Smith. Prof. Martyn (1788, p. 86) simply adds that the accom
modation is good at Chamonix, mentioning no name, and his
French editor (1794, p. 147) does not modify these statements.
Meiners (vol. iv. p. 190) in 1788 lodged at the VUle de Londres,
where he found clean rooms and good service. The 1793 Ebel
(vol. u. p. 65) says that there were three inns there, aU equally
.good. We leam from Bourrit's ' Itineraire de Geneve,' &c.
(1808, pp. 62-8) that the good landlady who had left such a
favourable impression on all her guests had died in 1807 at the
age of ninety-seven, and that her son then kept the inn called
Hotel d'Angleterre. Another exceUent inn, the landlord of
which was M. Terraz (Tairraz), existed m 1808. The 1809 Ebel
(vol. U. p. 885) says that the three large inns were quite like
those in towns. Madame Couteran's was the oldest and most
frequented, whUe the VUle de Londres was scarcely inferior and
was kept by M. Terraz (Tairraz), who had done much towards
making the miUe path up to the Montanvert. Shelley and his
party in 1816 put up at the Hotel de Londres (Six Weeks' Tour).
Jlr. Wall's EngUsh edition of Ebel (1818, p. 408), foUowing
his text, states that there were 'three large inns as good as
those of any town,' but omits aU details.
The 1824 Eichard (opposite p. 1) says : ' Dans le romantique
voyage que nous proposons aux voyageurs, nous signalerons
I'HoTEL DB L'Union, avcc bains de sante et de proprete, tenu
par MM. frferes Chaelet et Simond ; soins empresses, instruc
tion, complaisance et bonne table.' Mrs. Starke's ' Information
and Directions for TraveUers on the Continent ' (7th edition, 1829,
p. 87 TO.) says : ' The new Inn is neat and comfortable.' IV^. L.
Agassiz in the same year (1829, pp. 240, 242) states that there were
three inns, ' two of which are exceUent,' he himself lodging at the
Union, whUe the ' Itin&aire du Voyage k Chamouny ' (1829, p. 48

204 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
of German edition) mentions 'the Union and the Angleterre. The
1830 Eichard (p. 162) gives a more detailed account : ' Deux
grandes auberges existent k Chamouny, I'ancienne Ville de
Londres toujours tenue par Terraz ; la nouveUe a pour enseigne
la Parfaite-Union, tenue par Charlet et Simond.' The 1835
edition of the ' Traveller's Guide ' says (p. 428) : ' The hotels are
large and comfortable. The Union and the Hotel de Londres
are the principal.'
Thus the Londres (which had now absorbed the Angleterre)
was the old inn, the Union the new one. In the first edition of
Mm-ray (1838, p. 291) we hear much of the Hotel de Londres et
d'Angleterre, on which great praise is bestowed, the landlord
(M. Victor Tairraz) and his wife being spoken of in the warmest
terms. ' It is the oldest establishment, and has never forfeited
the reputation of being one of the best held and appointed inns
to be found in the Alps ; where Victor Tairrez and his exceUent
wife are so practised in their acquaintance with, and their pro
vision for, the wants of traveUers, especiaUy EngHsh, that more
comfort wiU be found there than in almost any other inn out of
England.' There were also two other inns, the Union and the
Nord. In the 1842 edition (p. 317), the Tairraz and their inn are
again warmly commended, the Union is said to be ' good,' while
the Couronne (kept by an old guide-chef, Joseph Tairraz) was
good and clean, though small.
The 1843 Ebel (p. 188) mentions five inns — Londres, Angle
terre, Union, Couronne, and Tour — but does not add a word of
commendation orwarning to any of them; whUethe 1844 Badeker
curtly says (p. 848), the Londres et Angleterre was extremely
good, tho Union was less recommended, and the Couronne was
pretty good. Far otherwise is the 1843 edition of Eichard (pp,
105-6), which describes very fuUy the four inns at Chamonix.
The Hotel de I'Union (huilt 1817, at the Geneva end of the
viUage) belonged to MM. Charlet and Simond, and appears to
have offered every comfort, good rooms, mineral baths, dirnng-
rooms on each fioor, three tables d'hdte a day, a bilUard table,
French and English papers, polyglot waiters, moderate bUl, but
(sad to relate) lacked a capable and active femine de chambre for

Notes on Swiss In.xs and Huts 205
the ladies. The Hotel de Londres et d'Angleterre was the oldest
inn, and passed (this probably means that the old rivals Londres
and Angleterre were then united), iu 1819, into the hands of M.
Victor Tairraz, and occupied a very fine position, its forty rooms
being very clean, while some of them had been occupied by
Emperors, Kings and Queens on their visits to Chamonix. The
new owner had done much to develop this inn, and as he had
been a guide himself (up ilont Blanc in 1809 with Marie Para
dis), he was able to give aU necessary information. The Hotel
de la Couronne (built in 1832) was kept by IM. Joseph Tairraz,
an ex-guide chef, and could accommodate forty to forty-five
visitors ; it rejoiced in a belvedere, which was the only one of
its kind in the place. The Hotel du Nord (formerly Hotel
d'Angleterre) was a succursale of the Union, and reserved
for those making a lengthy staj' in the valley. The Hotel de
la Tour was in a fine position. There seems at that time to
have been a sort of casino in Chamonix, kept by the owner of
the Union, but open to visitors from aU the hotels in the vUlage ;
it contained a bUliard-room, a drawing-room, and a reading-
room, and was largely frequented on wet days. M. Eichard
himself stayed at the Union. The Londres et Angleterre was,
however, the oldest estabUshed inn, and probably the most
fi-equented, certainly by English travellers and European sove
reigns. The 1846 Murray (p. 336) praises the Londres et Angleterre,
thoughnot quite at such length as before, mentions Victor Tairraz
only, and says the Couronne was pretty good. In the 1851
edition (p. 327) the Tairraz (now the brothers T.) are stUl men
tioned first ; the Union was very good indeed, not at all inferior
to itsrival; the Mont Blanc or Couronne is just mentioned; while
the Eoyal (buUt in 1849), beyond the bridge, was the new inn.
The Tairraz were then about to buUd an English chapel, but
from the 1854 edition (p. 338) it appears that it was ultimately
buUt in the grounds of the Hotel Eoyal.
According to the ' Pioneers of the Alps ' (in the life of
Francois Couttet) Couttet first lodged some English mountaineers
in 1863, in 1867 laid the foimdations of a larger house, the centre

2o6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
of the present group of buildings, and in 1868 definitively ceased
to be a guide, and became exclusively an innkeeper.
96 De Saussure, vol. U. p. 183. Brockedon (p. 29) gives the
following description ofthe state of things in 1824 : ' We entered
one of these stone hovels, which was patronised by our guide.
Hospitahty sold here, was indicated by a bush of rhododendron
tied to a stick, and kept on the gable by the weight of some
stones ; it was not a sign of wine, for none was to be had there,
but it was a hint for eau de vie. Michel had provided wine and
bread, &c., at Contamines. The hovel of which we took posses
sion consisted of two dens, miscalled chambers ; the outer one,
" serving for kitchen, for parlour, and haU," was about five feet
wide and ten feet long, with a fireplace at one end, but no
chimney. The sleeping room contained three miserable couches,
a long table on trestles in the centre, and two forms of the same
length. At the end was the only window in this the chief hotel
of Chapiu ; it contained four very smaU panes of glass when fitted
in, but this was only on company occasions, two bars of iron
crossed being the usual check against rats or weasels, for
nothing larger could enter. A smaU lamp, of classic form,
rendered the darkness visible, but scarcely enabled us to see
that our dormitory had been recently fitted up for the traveUing
season. This discovery I accidentaUy made by thrusting my
fingers into the yet soft mud and Ume with which the walls
were plastered. Here, however, we had brought good appetites
and great fatigue ; the first gave a reUsh to deUcious mUk and
eggs ; and the second, soon after, gave us up, wrapt in our cloaks,
to sound sleep on the coarse paUiasses.' Compare Latrobe's
' Alpenstock,' p. 273. The 1838 Murray (p. 304), says ' Some of
the chalets are fitted up in a rude way to receive traveUers who
may be disposed to come here and sleep.'
97 The mineral spring was discovered in 1771, and a smaU
building rmi up for the use of bathers. It was soon abandoned,
but was completely restored in 1793-94 (Ober, vol. ii. p. 244 ;
Wyss, vol. U. p. 301). Hugi (1828, p. 131) speaks m the highest
terms of the inn, which he considers to rank with the best in the
Oberland, and Mr. Agassiz in 1829 (p. 155) says that it was ' a

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 207
good inn.' The 1838 Murray (p. 80) speaks of it as a ' homely
inn,' Steinbeck by name. It was burnt down in 1860, but has
since been rebuUt.
98 Most probably this inn was established after the new road
over the Gemmi was constructed, 1786-41, but the first notice
of it in books of travel that I have come across is that by Coxe in
1776 (1801 edition, vol. i. p. 394): ' a single house on the Gemmi,
where we procured some refreshment.' Bourrit (1781 book, vol.
i. p. 140) : ' La maison est tout k la fois un hospice et une auberge
ou les passagers trouvent du pain et du vin pendant quatre mois
que ce passage est ouvert.' De Mayer (1784, vol. ii. p. 14) men
tions ' un Hospice etabli aupres du lac' Eobert. (1790, vol. u. p.
246) says : ' Je me trouvai inopindment dans un hospice Etabli
pour ceux que la necessite, je ne dis pas la curiosite (on ne le
presume pas) , dirige par ces affreux deserts. Quoiqu'il ne fut pas
six heures, je me determinai faoUement k y passer la nuit, pour
ne point m'engager k ses approches dans des lieux aussi sauvages.
Une cahute habitee par un homme seul, en tout autre lieu que
la Suisse, m'eiit presente un reduit redoutable : ici, j'y entrai
avec joie, j'y dormis avec securite, et I'idee meme du danger
ne se presenta point k mon esprit sous un ciel ou des loix con-
formes k la Nature n'ont point degrade les hommes. Du lait
chaud sans sel, du pain dur, et du fromage me presentferent un
repas d^Ucieux, et furent les seuls rnets que me servit mon h6te.'
The 1823 Ebel says that in case of need night quarters may be
found there. The 1888 Murray (p. 104) speaks of it as ' a solitary
inn ... a mere chalet, affording no other refreshment than
cheese, milk, and brandy ; and containing six or .eight miserable
beds.' It was rebuUt and enlarged in 1840 (Ober, vol. i. p. 566).'
I cannot refrain from quoting here Sebastian Miinster's
account of his visit to the Gemmi. Speaking of Leukerbad he
says (pp. 846-47 of the 1550 Basel edition) : ' Ad occidentem
thermarum eriguntur saxa in coelum, quse sine mentis stupore,
ob eorum altitudinem, praecipitia, et scissuras, inspici nequeunt.
AHqua etiam sic hiant, perinde ac si minentur ruinam
oppressura omnia quae sunt in subjecta planicie. Eetorquentur
autem ab occidente in septentrionem, suntque intercisa magnis

2o8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
hiatibus et scissuris, per quos iter est inventum, aut magis homi
num labore factum, per quod magno sudore et labore ascenditur,
vocaturque eo loco saxosus ille mons Gemmi. Ascendit iter
recte in altiim in modum fere cochlese, habens perpetuas
ambages et flexuras parvas ad laevam et dextram, estque iter
valde angustum et periculosum maxime ebriis et his qui verti-
gine laborant. Quocumque enim demittuntur oculi, apparet
chaos immensae profunditatis, quam aegre etiam intueri possunt
hi qui robustiori sunt capite. Certe ego non ascendi hunc mon-
tem citra tremorem ossiurti et cordis.' He aUudes to his feat
again on p. 333. (See too note 84, p. 191.)
99 Bourrit (1781 book, vol. i. p. 145) : ' L'auberge ou descend
le voyageur est une maison fort beUe quoique de bois, les meubles
sont propres, chaque famUle la tient a tour de role pendant deux
annees.' The 1798 Ebel (vol. ii. p. 85) says that there was then
but one inn and that was good. In the 1838 Murray (p. 104) the
inn is the Cheval Blanc, described as ' good, clean, and reasonable,
and furnishing excellent trout ' ; it graduaUy fell away, and in
1852 the Eitter took its place, though it was bad and extortionate ;
but in 1855 the inn came into new hands and was rechristened
the Victoria, the former holders buUding the Ours as a rival
establishment (HinchUff, ' Summer Months among the Alps,'
pp. 59-60).
100 Bourrit in his 1781 book (vol. U. p. 86), which is un
changed in this point in the 1785 edition, speaks only of the
Pfarrer, but Storr (1781, vol. ii. p. 2) lodged at an inn. Meiners
tells us, in a letter written on July 25, 1783 (' Briefe iiber die
Schweiz,' vol. ii, p. 41), that there was then at Grindelwald a
fairly large, cheap, and comfortable inn, though he preferred to
lodge with the Pfarrer, who by reason of his advanced age only
received travellers who were speciaUy recommended to him.
(This was Friedrich Kuhn, author of a careful description of the
valley, who became Pfarrer in 1759, and held his office tiU his.
death in 1783, apparently after Memers' visit). Wyttenbach (1787,
p. 25) says, ' L'auberge de Grindelwald est assez recommandable
aux voyageurs.' Prof. Martyn in 1788, p. 64 (no change in
French edition, p. 112), found the inn so tolerable that he did

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 209
not find it necessary to accept the Pfarrer's offer of beds. In
1790 the mn was kept by Christian Bohren. The Ebels of 1804
(vol. ii. p. 78) and 1809 (vol iu. p. 72) mention but a single inn,
but add that when it is fiiU the Pfarrer receives guests.
Konig (1814, p. 27) thus records his impressions : ' In the inn
at Grindelwald one is well served, the people are very obliging ;
father and son are great hunters (the former feU some years ago
into a crevasse in the glacier, broke his arm, and yet managed
luckUy to work his way out of his cold abode). As regards the
house itself, it is built of wood only ; -every footfaU can be heard,
and this is unbearable at night, particularly when Ul-bred parties
are lodged above or near one's room. On the other hand the
Pfarrer's house is a nearly new stone buUding, and the Pfarrer
is so obhging as, like his coUeague at Lauterbrunnen, to enter
tain traveUers with the greatest good nature. He too is a
mighty hunter, and is said to be the most stout-hearted of all
when engaged in hunting chamois. His conversation on this
subject is therefore very interesting.' We learn from other
sources that the innkeeper's name was Christian Bohren, and the
Pfarrer's Friedrich Lehmann (1805-18). Wyss (1817), (German
edition, p. 626, French edition, vol. ii. p. 230) speaks of two inns
as then existing in Gydisdorf, but himself went to the Pfarrer's.
Mr. WaU's 'Ebel' (1818), following his original text, says (pp.821,
444) that there is only one inn, but when it is fuU ' traveUers
are treated with hospitality at the parsonage-house,' the 1835
edition (p. 336) mentioning two inns but repeating the phrase as
to the Pfarrer. The 1823 Ebel (p. 286) says that the ' inns ' are
roomy and good, but gives no names or other detaUs. The 1824
Eichard (introduction to Canton of Berne, p. 3) warmly recom
mends as ' une exceUente maison,' the Hotel de I'Aigle Noir kept
by Samuel Blatter, formerly maitre d'hotel of the Hdtel de la
Maison de VUle at Unterseen : but the 1830 edition (p. 301) faUs
back on the old formula that there is one inn, the Aigle Noir,
but that when it is full the Pfarrer is wiUing to lodge strangers.
Samuel Blatter was stUl no doubt the landlord, for in 1832, being
then the host of the Adler, he buUt another inn on the Faulhorn.
Mr. Agassiz (1829, p. 152) speaks of ' two very good inns,' and in

2IO Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the Murray of 1838 (p. 77) we find both the Adler and the Bar
mentioned as ' tolerable,' rising to ' good ' in the 1842 edition
(p. 81), some detaUs as to prices being given in that of 1846
(p. 80). The 1843 Eichard (p. 200) places the Bear first, addmg
that the Aigle Noir was kept by Peter Bohren, whUe the Ebel
of the same date (p. 826) simply says that there were two good
inns, the Adler and the Bar, as weU as a bath-house. The first
edition of Badeker (1844, p. 160) says that the Bear and Adler
were both good, though rather dear considering the somewhat
rustic accommodation. Dr. John Forbes (' A Physician's Holi
day,' pp. 147-48) gives a most satisfactory account, ' both as to
matter and form,' of the half-crown table d'hote at the Adler
on the evening of August 22, 1848.
101 De Saussure, vol. U. p. 270. The narratives of later
travellers are full of warnings against stopping here. By 1854
(Murray, p. 358) there were ' two smaU inns or chalets, one con
taining three, the other foui: beds, but the accommodation is very
poor.' 102 Coxe (1776 and 1785, 1801 edition, vol. i. p. 386), Bourrit
(1781, vol i. p. 186), Meiners (1788, vol. U.pp. 19, 34, 38), andProf.
Martyn (1788, p. 67, French version, p. 117) found no inn, and
had recourse to the Pfarrer's hospitality. Yet De Mayer (1784,
vol. ii. p. 3) speaks of an inn, while Wyttenbach (1787, p. 16)
saj's : ' Quoiqu'on trouve k lauterbrounn une auberge, les
voyageurs ne laissent pas d'aller loger chez le Pasteur du Heu,
chez lequel Us sont niieux trait^s.^ The 1793 Ebel (vol. ii. p. 95)
mentions an inn, and we learn from the 1804 (vol. Ui. p. 64) and
1809 Ebels (vol. iii. p. 294) that in 1791, it was carried away
by a sudden freshet of the LiitSchine, a German traveller, M.
de Block, who was lodging there, having great trouble to save
himself and his sketches, but in 1793, 1804, 1809, though this
inn is mentioned, we stiU hear that the Pfarrer received any tra
vellers who wished to lodge with him, and that he entertained
them very well though presenting a bUl. Konig (1814, p. 19) gives
us his impressions thus : ' The inn is good, the people, though
rather surly-looking, are good, honest, and obliging, and always
provided with good trout from the Liitschine. But anyone who

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 211
likes quiet and comfort does better to take up his quarters at
the Pfarrer's, where the friendly pastor loci with his good-looking
wife and his cherub chUdren receives his guests in the most
obUging manner.' Wyss (1817 ; German edition, pp. 459, 490 ;
French edition, vol. U. pp. 58, 89) mentions an inn, but himself
always went to the Pfarrer's. Mr. Wall's EngHsh edition of Ebel
(1818, p. 455) says that the vUlage had but one inn, but that
' such strangers as go to the parsonage-house meet with good
accommodation nearly on their own terms ' ; the 1835 edition
(p. 328) of the book states that the viUage has a good inn.
The 1824 Eichard (p. 8 of introduction to Canton of Berne)
speaks only of the Pfarrer's house, but the 1830 edition (p. 345)
states that there was a good inn thdre. Mr. Agassiz (1829,
p. 147) speaks of ' a very good inn.' The ' Nouvelle Description de
I'Oberland Bernois ' (1838) says, ' L'auberge de L. est parfaite-
ment tenue, et I'etranger y trouve toutes les aisances de la vie.'
The 1838 Murray (p. 78) mentions the Capricorn (Steinbock)
as ' tolerably good,' ' good ' in 1842 (p. 76), ' tolerable ' in 1846
(p. 76), ' good ' in 1851 (p. 71), whUe the 1848 Ebel (p. 382) speaks
of the Steinbock, and of another inn by the church. This last is
doubtless the ' Heuch ' (? Hans or Chute) ' du Staubbach,
nouveUe et bonne maison situee sur le jpassage de la petite
Scheidegg,' mentioned by the 1843 Eichard (p. 201). The 1844
Badeker (p. 149) mentions the Steinbock as good.
103 Bourrit (1785, vol. ui. p. 223) : ' L'auberge qu'on y trouve
n'estpas mauvaise.' In 1808 (see Bourrit's ' Itineraire de Genfeve,
p. 161) it was kept by the Creton family. Mr. WaU's ' TraveUer's
Guide ¦ (1818, p. 404) says, ' there is a good inn at Trient,'
but also (p. 510), foUowing Ebel, ' the inn is not exactly bad, at
any rate a bed may be procured for the night.' The 1838
Murray (p. 300) is rather full : ' The traveller reaches the
Httle auberge in the hamlet, where he may rest and refresh.
Here, a new room has been buUt as a salle d manger, but the
dormitory is wretched : it must, however, be worse before
weariness refuses even suoh accommodation.'
104 The early -visitors to the Montenvers lunched near, and
sometimes slept under the shelter of, a great boulder, called the
p 2

212 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
' Pierre des Anglais ' (from the visit of Pococke and Windham in
1741), or in a shepherd's hut close by. In 1779 an Englishman
named Blair, who was residing at Geneva, gave four guineas for
the construction of a hospice there, which existed tUl 1812. It was
but a small wooden house (with the motto ' UtUe Dulci ' above
the door), which is called ' commodious ' by Coxe (1801 edition,
vol. ii. p. 12). Blair's cabin was, however, of great use to tra
veUers, and was visited by Goethe as early as November 5, 1779.
M. de Semon-nlle,the French ambassador to the Porte, suggested
to Bourrit the construction of a larger house, but his promised
donation was intercepted, and the new buUding was constructed
at the expense of M. Desportes, the French Eesident at Geneva.
Through the untiring energy of Bourrit it was ready by the
summer of 1795, and from having the words ' A la Nature ' over
the door is generaUy known as the ' Temple de la Nature.' It
contained chairs, a table, and even four beds of a sort (see the
•view of it opposite p. 40 of vol. i. of Bourrit's ' Description des
Cols, ou Passages des Alpes '). But though it was locked, and the
innkeeper was willing to lend the key on apphcation, traveUers
broke into it and used the furniture for friel for their fires, so
that by 1808 it was in a pitiable state. M. Le Doulcet Ponte-
coulant had it restored ; the key of the house was entrusted
to M. Couteran, ofthe H6tel d'Angleterre, and a ' Li^Tre des Amis,'
or Travellers' Book, was placed there. This buUding is men
tioned in the 1804 Ebel (vol. ii. p. 187), and was visited by an
Enghsh party in September 1800 ('Alpine Journal,' vol. -vU.
p. 483), as also by Prof. J.D. Forbes m 1832 (' Travels in the Alps
of Savoy,' p. 74). In 1840 a new inn was buUt at the expense of
the commune of Chamonix (it is commended in the 1842 Murray,
p. 320; and the 1844 Badeker, pp. 846-47), which in tum was
replaced in 1879 by the present large estabUshment.
M. Durier (' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd edition, pp. 164-69) has
given an interesting sketch of the history of this inn. Nearly
all his information is derived from De Saussure, vol. ii. p. 23 ;
Bourrit's 1803 book, vol. i. p. 87 ; the French Ebel of 1810, vol. U.
p. 864 TO. ; and Forbes's ' Travels,' pp. 73-74.
105 1804 Ebel, vol. U. p. 13 (wt 1793 Ebel, vol. U. p. 7), but

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 213
the inn is certainly much older, for the Niifenen Pass is men
tioned as early as 1543 by Sebastian Miinster (Basel edition of
1550, p. 333) under the name of Nyfi. ' Per Gries et Nyfi patet
iter ad Eschenthal ' (i.e. Val d'Ossola).
106 The springs were discovered in 1806, and the proprietor
soon buUt a bath-house, so that by 1810 they were quite fashion
able (see M. Durier's ' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd edition, pp. 299-300,
and the 1880 Eichard, p. 520). Brockedon -visited them in 1824,
and -writes (p. 16) : ' It is a little fairy spot, in a beautiful vaUey,
where exceUent accommodation may be had en pension, hot
mineral baths for the sick, and delightful walks round this little
paradise for the convalescent ; ' a passage which is quoted by
Murray va. the 1838 (p. 287) and many subsequent editions. The
Hotel du Mont JoU in the -vUlage was in existence in 1853 (see
2nd edit, of Messrs. Hudson and Kennedy's book, p. 45), and was
the centre, in that and the following year, from which attempts
(in some cases successfrU) on Mont Blanc were made by the
Goiiter and Miage routes (see Messrs. Hudson and Kennedy's
' Where There's a WUl There's a Way,' 1st edit. p. 25 ; and ' Peaks,
Passes and Glaciers,' 1st series, p. 59).
107 De Saussure and Bourrit do not seem to have ever visited
Sixt. On the occasion of the visits paid to it by Deluc in 1765
and 1770, he and his companions were hospitably entertained by
the Austin Canons Eegular (' Eelation de differents Voyages dans
les Alpes du Faucigny,' pp. 4, 21), whose house was founded in
1144, but was dissolved at the time of the Eevolution, in the
year 1793. The ruins of the monastery (built in 1622) were
put to different uses. The southern wing came into the occupa
tion of a certain Cochet, an innkeeper, whose wife had received
Albanis Beaumont on his first visit to this place, where he died
(and was buried) in 1811. Beaumont praised her attention in
very high terms, and the inn was kept by this couple in 1820,
when a detaUed description is given of it by ' F. J. M.' in his
' Itineraire descriptif de la vaUee de Sixt ' (1821, pp. 75, 81, 85-6)_
' Cette bonne femme met un vrai plaisir k recevoir les strangers
qui vont dans cette vaU^e, et cette auberge est la seule qui puisse
leur offrir quelques commodites, et surtout de bons lits. On est

214 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
bien k la Couronne d'or, que Ton voit k gauche en entrant dans
le vUlage ; U est k regretter que les lits soient mauvais, car la
cuisine y est bonne, et I'hotesse tres propre et tres honnete ' (p. 86).
It would seem that Markham SherwUl's description refers to the
latter inn, as he speaks of the ruins of the monastery as quite
distinct from it. ' At Sixt there is a very tolerable auberge,
where most deUcious trout £i,re to be obtained in great abundance,
the waters of this valley not being too cold, as at Chamoimy, to
prevent a good suppl}'.' This passage from a private letter of
SherwiU's is given in the 1838 Murray (p. 289), and repeated in
the 1842 and 1846 editions. In the 1851 edition (p. 835) we
read, inserted in SherwiU's account, "At Sixt the old convent
has been fitted up as an Ztoto and Boarding-house, with accom
modation for thirty persons. It is kept by WiUiam Eayer, and
is good quarters for those who desire shooting. Chamois,
grouse, and partridge are to be had.' (Then foUows the bit
about the trout, which survives tiU the 1879 edition.) In the
1854 edition (p. 346) the whole section is re--written, and the
name of the inn, ' HStel du Fer k Cheval,' is added ; and in
that of 1856 (p. 303) Moccand is named as the landlord. In
1857 Moccand succeeded in acquiring the whole of the buUding,
according to Mr. WUla (' The Eagle's Nest,' pp. 24-8, 57), who
teUs us much about active, kind-hearted Madame Moccand, and
her wonderful maid, Marie, and her drunken husband, who was
much in the way tiU his death in .the winter of 1858, after
which event ' Madame ' had a better time, though apparently
not for very long, as she is mentioned for the last time in the
1863 Mm-ray (p. 405).
108 In 1688-89 one Sebastian Zay buUt the chapel (now
known as the Eigi Klbsterli) for the use of herdsmen, and com
mitted it to the care of two Capuchin friars ; an inn was soon
buUt there, and by 1781 there were no fewer than three in exist
ence, the White Horse, kept by Josef Anton Schrieber, being
a Httle later that patronised by foreign visitors, who started
thence at midnight to see the sunrise fi-om the Kulm. The
other was caUed the Ox (from 1822 the Sword). The 1793 Ebel
(vol. ii. p. 139) says that the inns were very middling, the 1804

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 215
edition tvol. iv. p. 32) mentions the White Horse and Ox, while
that of 1809 (vol. iv. p. 118) adds the Sun and the Crown. The
Crown was the smaUest and least conspicuous of the four inns,
yet it was its landlord, Joseph Martin Bilrgi, who in 1814 first
started the idea of building a house on the Kuhn. His resources,
however, were too smaU to aUow him to finish the buUding which
he had begun, and so on May 24, 1815, he appHed for aid to
Heinrich Keller of Ziirich, who in 1813 had pubUshed the first
reaUy accm-ate map of Switzerland. KeUer had visited the
Eigi in 1804, and had pubUshed his sketches in a book in
1807 ; and in 1814 he had pitched his tent on the Kuhn. He
took up the idea with enthusiasm, obtained the support of Ebel
(the author ofthe famous guide), Escher (the constructor ofthe
Linth canal), and others ; and on June 5, 1815 (a fortnight
before Waterloo was fought), an appeal for subscriptions for
this end was issued, signed by the above-named men and two
others. 349 persons responded, their contributions amounting
to about 1,355 francs (present value), and a smaU hut, buUt for
the accommodation of the workmen, was visited by many
traveUers the same summer. A fresh appeal on Jan. 2, 1816,
brought in 2,100 francs (present value) from 388 subscribers,
and this sum was employed in ftirnishing the house. On August 6,
1816, the landlord and three workmen passed the night in it
for the first time. The first entries in the TraveUers' Book date
from August 16, being the names of three EngUsh traveUers,
W. Haggit, Sir Henry and Colonel Lambert. It is not clear
whether these three spent the night there ; at any rate, on
August 22, Sauerlander, the publisher of Aarau, with three
friends and the -wife of one of them, are the first traveUers who
are recorded to have slept there. In 1816 there were but six
beds. KeUer stayed from July 29 to August 18 on the Kulm,
and that year pubhshed his Panorama from it, and in 1823 a
pamphlet of 78 pages, ' Beschreibung des Eigibergs.' (He died
in 1862, having visited the mountain thirty-two times.) This
Httle inn met -with great success, and fresh money contributions
to keep it up and improve it flowed in to the same committee
as before. In 1816 there were 294 visitors (112 English); in

2i6 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1817, 664 (128 EngHsh) ; in 1818, 835 (128 EngHsh) ; and in
1819, 1,036 (168 Enghsh). Hence it had to be enlarged m 1880
(25 beds). Martin Biirgi, the original landlord and originator
of the whole scheme, died on June 20, 1883. His son succeeded
him, and repaid the money advanced to the committee. (It
now forms a fund administered by the Natural History Society
of Ziirich.) The 1835 TraveUer's Guide mentions the new inn
(p. 357), which afforded ' good accommodation,' though at
higher prices than in the plains, and aUudes to the inconveni
ences of overcrowding. (The 1818 edition does not seem to
mention this inn at aU.) The 1888 Murray (p. 49) thus de
scribes the inn : ' The Culm Haus, an inn somewhat resembling
a barrack, containing more than forty beds, in rooms not unlike
cabins, and affording very tolerable accommodation, consider
ing the height, which exceeds that of the most elevated moun
tain in Britain.' A very vivid account of the bustle and over
crowding at night, and of the noise in the early morning, is
given ; the scaffolding before the inn, and the suggestive prohi
bition against taking the blankets off the beds to be used as
wrappers when the sunrise is to be watched, are mentioned
amongst other famUiar features. In 1848 a new house was
built to accommodate 100 to 130 persons, in 1856-57 another
for 150 to 200. The buUding of the raUways (1869-73 and
1873-75) enormously increased the number of visitors. In 1873
the younger Burgi sold hia business to a company, which faUed
in 1875, after the buUding of a hotel for 200 to 300 guests by the
brothers Schreiber, who in 1879 finaUy purchased the whole
concern from the mortgagees. I take these detaUs from a most
interesting pamphlet (including many extracts from the old
TraveUers' Books, &c.) entitled ' Aus den Fremdenblichern von
Eigi-Kulm,' by W. H. Vormann (Bern, 1888). It is a most
complete history of the development of a mountain inn in
Switzerland — and that one of the earUest buUt expressly for
tourists not being invalids — and contains woodcuts of the house
as it was in 1815, 1816, 1830, 1848, 1856, and 1875. The success
of the Kuhn um led to the construction of other hdtels on other
parts of the mountain. In 1824 the Eigi-Kaltbad (rebuUt 1849

Notes on Swiss Inns a. yd Huts 217
after a fire), in 1837 the Eigi Scheidegg, and at a date not cer
tainly ascertained (' recently erected,' says the TraveUer's Guide
of 1835, p. 357 ; the 1888 Murray, p. 48, caUs it ' a humble inn,
to which travellers are sometimes driven for a night's lodging by
the crowded state of the inn on the summit '), the Eigi Staffel
inns were buUt. Herr Peyer, from whom I take these last dates,
says (p. 191) that all the inns on the Eigi can now accommodate
2,000 guests a night.
109 It was built by a man named Eoux, and was enlarged
in 1858 (Durier, ' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd edition, p. 300, re.).
110 In 1822-23 Samuel Blatter, the landlord of the Adler at
Orindelwald, buUt a hut on the Faulhorn (Ober, ' L'Oberland
Bemois,' vol. U. p. 829, though the 1823 Ebel (p. 287) does not
speak of it), which in 1831-82 was reconstructed. The new
house consisted of three stories, the uppermost being devoted
to the dining-room and salon, the two others containing ten
small rooms for traveUers. A fuU account of the inn and moun
tain generally is given in Pfarrer Schweizer's 56-page book, ' Das
FaiUhorn in Grindelwald ' (1832), which accompanies Schmid's
Panorama from the summit (the latter replacing an earher one of
1811, a revised edition in Wyss's Hand Atlas of 1816). Through
out the book a contrast is drawn between the Eigi inn buUt by
pubUc subscription, and the Faulhorn inn, buUt by a local inn
keeper, whUe great stress is laid on the fact that the latter was
then the highest inhabited dwelUng in Europe, higher even than
the Great St. Bernard hospice. My copy of the book was, ac
cording to an inscription in it, presented to my grandmother,
Mrs. Brevoort, on the occasion of her ascent on August 7, 1835.
The 1838 Murray gives (p. 79) the following not very enthusi
astic account of the inn : ' The inn on the summit, which is
only tenanted for four months of the year, and is totaUy aban
doned to the wind and rain in October, affords three very toler
able apartments, and one or two lofts ; stUl it is but sorry sleeping
accommodatiqp, the desagremens of which are hardly compen
sated to ladies by the uncertain beauty of the early view of the
glaciers : for gentlemen the quarters are good enough. . . . The
larder of mine host is said to be better than heretofore ; but

2i8 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
everything is of course very dear.' The first edition of Badeker
(1844 p, 164) says that there -were only twenty-four beds, and
that in the height of the season a traveUer could not secure a bed
to himself. As a curiosity, it may be noted that the first winter
ascent of the mountain by a traveller was made on January 23,
1832, by Hugi (G. Studer, ' Das Panorama von Bern,' p. 58).
Ill There was no inn at Saas as late as 1825, for in that
year Brockedon teUs (p. 242) us how his guide took him to the
Pfarrer, who was at first inclined to refuse to entertain him, but
ultimately did so. There was one m 1883 kept by Moritz Zur-
briicken, who also acted as guide (Marc Viridet, ' Passage du
Eothhorn,' pp. 8-9). This inn sheltered aU the earher visitors to
Saas, and its landlord is very highly spoken of by Engelhardt
and others. In 1850 the increasing number of tourists induced
another Zurbriicken, a notary, to build a rival inn, the Monte
Eosa, the old house now being called the Hotel Monte Moro,
in lieu of the Sun (Engelhardt, ' Das Monte-Eosa- und Matter-
horn-Gebirg,' p. 125).
The 1852 Murray (p. 278) says : ' Zur Sonne, very good and
homely ; exceUent vin d'Asti ; kept by a civil and honest feUow,
Moritz Zurbriicken, one of the best guides in the vaUey. — H.
du Mont Eose.' The new inn reaUy belonged to the cure, the
weU-known Pfarrer Imseng, and was finaUy amalgamated with
Zurbriicken's. Mr. WUls (' Wanderings,' pp. 117-19) gives an
account of the state of things in 1852 and 1854. In 1856 we
hear of a new inn being buUt (see ' A Lady's Tour round Monte
Eosa,' p. 94 ; and Murray, 1856, p. 299), and in 1858 it is open and
has taken the name H.Monte Moro (Murray, 1858, p. 293; 'Alpine
Byways,' pp. 204, 209-10). It soon forced its rival to close its
doors, and has ever since continued to be the principal, often the
only, inn at Saas, though the Monte Eosa was opened by fits and
starts. 112 Though this celebrated point of view above Solothurn
(Soleure) was weU known for many years before, and the pano
rama published by Keller in 1817, the only accommodation on the
summit was a shepherd's hut, until 1826, when an inn (contain
ing thirty bedrooms, accommodating fifty persons) was buUt

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 219
by the city of Solothurn at a cost of about 30,000 fr-ancs (present
value) and leased to Herr Brunner, the landlord of the Krone
at Solothurn (' Gemalde der Schweiz,' Solothurn volume, pp. 29-
31). The 1838 Murray (p. 11) says : ' It furnishes about thirty
beds, and the accommodation, though homely, is good.'
113 The first mention of an inn here that I have come
across is in Mr. L. Agassiz's account of his visit to the col in
1829 (p. 244). He speaks of ' a house built for the accommoda
tion of traveUers on the summit,' and describes his experiences
thus : ' At this chalet I breakfasted, and though it has a miser
able appearance, found in it good coffee, fresh eggs, excellent
milk, honey, and butter ; and there are two tolerable beds to be
had if necessary. My host was a chamois hunter, and he had
a good collection of crystals and minerals, as well as seeds and
dried specimens of the flowers of all the Alpine plants.' This
shows that it must have been estabhshed some time aheady.
The 1829 ' Itineraire du Voyageur k Chamouny ' (p. 71 of the
German edition) says that it was pretty good but dear. The
1838 Murray (p. 302) says : ' There is a house of refuge on the
Col de Bahne, where shelter and refreshment, with exceUent
¦wine may be had, and five or six tolerable beds are ready to
receive traveUers overtaken by a storm.' Desor, in the same
year, speaks (p. 55) of exceUent Asti wine but bad beds.
114 The mineral spring was known in Scheuchzer's time,
but the bathhouse does not seem to have been built tUl 1830
(' Gemalde der Schweiz,' Glarus volume, p. 653). The 1838
Murray (p. 188) speaks of it as a ' handsome hotel and bathing
estabUshment.' 115 As early as 1539 the famous Paracelsus celebrated the
mineral spring here in prose, whUe Malachrida -wrote a sonnet
on it in 1650. But its fame graduaUy decayed, and by 1811 the
arrangements for the guests were extremely primitive (Peyer,
p. 222). In 1832 a company leased the spring for twenty years
and buUt a bathhouse, besides which there were three inns —
the EossU, the Adler, and the Lowe. The number of guests
rapidly increased, so that in 1856 a new bathhouse was buUt,
replaced in 1866 by a stUl larger one. Since 1856 the spot has

220 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
been largely frequented (Caviezel, ' Das Oberengadin,' Sth
edition, p. 110).
The 1838 Murray (p. 1991 says that in the three inns
(apart from the bathing estabUshment) — the Obere, Mittlere
and Untere-Gasthofe — ' the accommodation is of the homeliest
kind, the Obere being the best.' Later we find that the latter
inn was buUt in 1824 by Peter FaUer (1843 Ebel, p. 438), and
later kept by M. Badrutt (1856 Murray, p. 235). By 1864 (BaU,
p. 888) it had taken its present name of Engadiner Kulm. Herr
Caviezel says this inn is said to have lodged only twenty-two
guests in 1848, and sixty-eight in 1858 (five being EngHsh).
116 The first inn was buUt by Kehrli (a schoolmaster of
Brienz, and owner of the falls), who from 1818 onward had
improved the paths near the faUs, obtaining some help from
the Government. The iUumination of the faUs began in 1846.
On Kehrli's death the establishment passed through different
hands (being enlarged now and then), tUl it was purchased in
1870 by the brothers Hauser, who buUt in 1872 a large hotel,
which has been rebuilt since it was burnt in 1883. The
funicular raUway was constructed in 1883 (Peyer, pp. 195-96).
Murray, from his first edition (1838) onwards, describes the
Giessbach, and mentions Kehrli, who with his grandchUdren
were ' the best choristers of native airs in Svntzerland,' but
makes no mention of an inn tUl 1858 (p. 86).
117 Pfarrer Strasser of Grindelwald has kindly ascertained
for me that this inn was buUt in 1884 and opened in 1835. It
was buUt by a BaseUand man named Heinrich Btirgi-Fuck,
and originaUy accommodated about thirty persons. It was
enlarged in 1841-42, and once more in 1887-88, so that vrith
the d^pendances it can lodge 100 visitors. The 1838 Murray
(p. 81) speaks of it as ' a new inn, on a very extensive scale,
situated directly under the road leading to the Scheideck,
beneath a hanging wood and in grounds that remind one of an
EngHsh park. Though provided -with hot and cold baths it is
less resorted to by invaUds than by passing traveUers. It is a
good- house, not dear.'
118 Most of the early visitors to the Visp vaUeys passed

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 221
tiirough Stalden in haste, in order to reach then- destination^
Engelhardt tells us that in 1835 he obtained such sour wine at
the big old inn opposite the fountain, that next year on his way
up from Visp he sat on the ' place ' and purchased some mUk
from a woman. On his way down from Saas that year his
guides took him to the house (practicaUy an inn also) of the
former casteUan or chatelain, where the bUberry wine was
good, and it was even better in 1887, when he made the ac
quaintance of the vice-castellan, who provided good beds in
clean rooms in his house for bona-fide traveUers. In 1838 and
1839, too, his experiences were equally favourable (' NaturschU-
derungen,' pp. 149-50). In 1888, M. Desor found comfortable
lodgings at the house of the chatelain, ' un honnete paysan,
parlant I'aUemand avec assez de purete ' ; he had a good
' minestra ' and an omelette for supper, whUe the beds were
very clean. His host took a great interest in the party when
he learnt that they were from Neuchatel, for the Upper and
Lower Valais were then engaged in very violent disputes, and
while awaitingthe decisionof the Federal Diet on the whole ques
tion, the Haut Valais men were preparing to defend by arms
their rights, which had been infringed. ' Or Neuchatel etait,
aux yeux de notre chatelain, le seul Canton qui eut compris la
justice de la cause des Hauts-Valaisans ; aussi regardait-U
comme un insigne honneur de nous h^berger. II nous offrit
son cheval pour soulager les plus fatigues; et son admiration
fut au comble lorsque nous lui apprimes que le monsieur qui
aUait faire usage de sa monture etait I'un des membres de la
Diete neuchateloise. Ii eut ete cruel d'ajouter que c'^tait un
membre de I'opposition ! ' ('Excursions et Sejours dans les
Glaciers.' First series, pp. 62-63, 116-47). The 1888 Murray
(p. 246) is probably referring to the chatelain when it says that
' there is a decent inn, where the traveUer may find accommo
dation and rest, if the two hours yet necessary for reaching Visp
in the Valais should add too much to his day's fatigue ' (repeated
in 1842, p. 265, and 1846, p. 284, and 1851, p. 277— the latter
aUowing one and a half instead of two hours). Engelhardt gives
an account of the casteUan's (his name, Berchtold, is now first

222 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
mentioned) old-fashioned house and furniture in 1849, and
praises the good bilberry wine, mentioning that there is a new
bedroom with two beds in the main buUding, while in another
close by, in a dusky and pUlared apartment, there are, according
to the Italian fashion, several other beds.
By 1850 great improvements had been made, things in general
modernised, the cookery was much better, and a young girl
replaced the aged dame who before provided for travellers
(' Das Monte-Eosa- und Matterhorn-Gebirg,' pp. 103-4). Our
¦writer was very well satisfied in 1851 {ibid. p. 245). In the 1852
Murray (p. 279) it is described as ' a poor inn,' and in that of
1854 (p. 294) as ' bey Berchtold, smaU and clean,' the Badeker
of the same year (p. 254) marking Berchtold's inn -with a star
of recommendation, and describing it as clean and cheap. The
1856 Murray (p. 301) repeats 1854, and so does 1858 (p. 295)
with the omission of any epithet, though 1861 (p. 389) and 1863
(p. 338) call it ' poor but clean and moderate.' In 1867 (p. 347)
it has taken the name of Traube, and besides the usual epithets
appHed to it, its Muscat wine is reported to be good, a judgment
confirmed by the 1871 Von Tschudi (p. 106). There is no
change in the Murrays of 1872 (p. 367) or 1874 (p. 367). BaU
(1875, p. 310) StiU describes it as ' humble quarters,' but by 1879
it was rebuUt, for so say the 1879 Murray (p. 357) and the 1880
Von Tschudi (p. 280). It probably soon after took the name
of Hotel Stalden, which we find in the 1883 Badeker (EngHsh
edition, p. 802), and which still exists as the representative of,
possibly historicaUy identical with, Berchtold's inn of the early
days of travel in the Visp vaUeys.
119 The 1793 Ebel (vol. U. p. 97) mentions a cheese chalet
on the pass where the wearied traveUer might rest, later edi
tions from 1804 (vol. iii. p. 69) onwards adding that he might
also refresh himself there, but I cannot find any aUusion what
soever to an inn until the first edition of Murray (1888). There
(pp. 75, 77) we read of two chalets which furnish ' beds to
strangers, who sometimes pass the night here to await the sun
rise,' whUe it is further stated that ' within a few years a chalet
has been erected on the very summit of th-e Wengern Alp, to

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 223
afford refr-eshment by day to passing travellers, and shelter by
night to those who wish to enjoy the sunrise from hence. Both
the fare and the beds are of a very humble description.'
The former is described in the 1842 (p. 79) edition as a
'rustic, but very tolerable Inn, H. de la Jungfrau, containing
fourteen beds, to accommodate strangers who choose to await
the sunrise at this elevation,' a description which is repeated
again and again without any alteration (save the substitution
of twenty for fourteen in the 1854 edition, and the omission of
'rustic ' in the 1867 edition, p. 86), tUl the 1874 (p. 85) edition,
when it becomes ' a comfortable house, -with exceUent table
d'hote.' The latter was closed as early as 1841 (1842 Murray,
p. 80), because (as the first Badeker, 1844, p. 158, tells us) the
host had gone off to the Brienzer Eothhorn inn. It was rebuUt
and reopened in 1854 (see that year's Murray, p. 75, and
Badeker, p. 101), whUe in the 1858 edition (p. 79) it was said
to be better than the other. Oddly enough, this delightful Uttle
inn, long kept by the SeUers of Bonigen, does not appear by the
weU-kno-wn name of Hotel BeUevue tUl the 1859 Joanne (p. 545),
Murray apparently not mentioning this name tiU 1867 (p. 87).
120 Murray (1888, p. 80) thus describes it : 'On the top of
the Scheideck (6,711 feet above the sea level) stands a chalet,
weather-tight, affording one or two beds for such traveUers as are
driven to sleep here ; and a cup of coffee or hot mUk for those
who desire to warm themselves after their cold morning's ride
over the mountains.' The 1843 Ebel (p. 549) caUs it ' a fair
inn ' (ein ordentHches Wirthshaus '), whUe the 1844 Badeker
(p. 168) says that it is to be recommended for breakfast when
one has come up from Grindelwald fasting early in the morning,
that meat may be obtained there, and also some beds in case of
need. 121 All the early traveUers and guide-books (except the 1798
Ebel, vol. ii. p. 78) only mention a cheese chalet here. In the
1838 Murray (p. 84) it is thus described : ' It can furnish a bed
upon an emergency, and refreshments only of a very humble
kind, such as milk, cheese, kirsch-wasser, and spirit of gentian,'
the latter phrase being worded in the 1842 edition (p. 89), ' and

224 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
tolerable provisions, good coffee, &c.' G. Studer spent a night
and day there in August 1841, and speaks ofthe stream of pass
ing travellers from all countries (' Topographische MittheUungen,'
p. 91). The 1844 Badeker (p. 181) says that refreshments of
various kinds are to be had there, and in case of need a bed ; a
description nearly verbaUy identical with those of Murray and
of the 1848 Ebel (p. 833). The inn was carried away by an
avalanche in the spring of 1889, but wUl doubtless be soon
rebuilt. 122 The 1838 Murray (p. 89) describes the inn as ' a very
rustic cabaret, affording refreshment of some kind, and a bed
upon an emergency. N.B. — Its character as a house of enter
tainment is said to have improved of late.' This last remark
seems to show that it existed some time before 1888, but neither
the 1830 Eichard (p. 235) nor the 1835 TraveUer's Guide
(pp. 220, 369-70) make any mention of it. The 1842 Murray
gives a much improved account (p. 95), ' a rustic Inn, affording
very fair accommodation both for eating and sleeping, good
provisions and clean beds,' though in 1846 (p. 99) the traveUer
is warned to be on his guard against extortion. The 1843 Ebel
(p. 509) simply mentions it as a smaU inn, but gives it the now
weU-known name of Im Gletsch. The 1844 Badeker (p. 185)
describes it as a very modest inn with about twelve beds, where
a fair breakfast or dinner may be procured.
123 The 1888 Murray (p. 303) says that here ' a tolerably
convenient place for sleeping has, vrithin a few years, been
erected, and this is the best place to rest at, when a succeeding
long day's journey is determined on.'
124 In the Murray of 1838 (p. 247) the parish priest's
house is mentioned as the only refuge for traveUers ; but in that
of 1842 (pp. 266, 269) mention is also made of ' a good Uttle inn,
comfortable in itself, and kept by civU people,' which is also
described as ' a decent little mountain inn.' This was Dr.
Lauber's little hotel opened in 1839. See foUowing paper, p. 282.
125 The 1842 Mm-ray (p. 87) says that ' on the top a
chalet has been lately (1840) buUt, which affords better accom
modation than the Faulhorn — a dinner and even a bed in toler-

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 225
able comfort ; ' and G. Studer (' Das Panorama von Bern,'
p. 14) dates it as ' ? 1888,' adding that it was abandoned by 1846
and burnt on November 19 of that year. The 1848 Ebel (p. 174)
says that it was a good inn, while the 1844 Badeker (p. 176) is
of opinion that the view is but Httle inferior to that of the FaiU-
hom, whUe the inn is good, better than that on the Grindelwald
mountain, and just as much frequented. There was much talk
of rebuUding the inn, but this does not seem to have taken
place for many years. Von Tschudi (' Nord- und West- Schweiz,'
p. 106) speaks of a good inn as existing by 1870, and the 1872
Murray (p. 96) calls it ' a good mountain Inn, -with moderate
charges.' This second inn does not seem, however, to have
been so much frequented as was the first, for by 1875 it was
closed (Von Tschudi's ' Turist,' 1880 edition, p. 96), and in
1885, Hke its predecessor, it was burnt down (Von Tschudi's
1886 ' Turist,' p. 96).
126 Herr G. Studer (' Topographische Mittheilungen,' p. 82,
slept there on the night of August 6-7, 1841, before making the
first ascent of the Sustenhom. It is just mentioned by the 1843
Ebel (p. 609) though not by the 1844 Badeker (p. 206), whUe
Murray does not speak of it tiU the 1846 edition (p. 103),
where it is described as ' a very comfortable chalet serving as
an Inn,' which in the 1852 edition (p. 98) faUsto ' a chalet at the
foot of the Stein glacier serves as a tolerable Inn,' but rises
again in the 1854 edition (p. 99) to ' a clean little Inn, the only
good halting-place.' The 1854 Badeker (p. 180) also says that
the good Stein inn is a welcome sight in the wUderness to the
traveller descending from the Susten Pass.
127 Very possibly this was the inn veUed under the mention
made by Mr. A. T. Malkin in the 1842 Murray (p. 92), of ' decent
accommodation at Viesch ' on occasion of the first known tra
veUers' ascent ofthe Eggischhorn, made by his party on August
26, 1840. Ebel in 1843 (p. 668) mentions it by name, ' Zum
Vieschergletscher,' while the 1844 Badeker (p. 194) adds that
it is good and is kept by NeUen. The 1851 Murray (p. 91)
describes it as 'a capital country Inn, chez NeUens,' altering
the last words in the 1854 edition (p. 92) to ' H. du Glacier,' Q

226 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
the Badeker of the same year (p. 122) marking it with a star
of recommendation, and noting that it was kept by Jost.
128 I have found no mention of this favourite stopping-place
earlier than in the following passage from the 1846 Murray
(p. 126): 'At Comballe there is amost picturesque andcomfortable
Uttle inn, much frequented in summer by the inhabitants of the
vaUeys, for the benefit of the pure mountain air, and a sul
phureous mineral spring of great celebrity which takes its source
here.' 129 Oddly enough, this iim is first mentioned (at least as far
as I have observed) by Dr. John Forbes in 1848 (' A Physician's
HoHday,' p. 320). Mr. W. Mathews, hi 1854, mentions the
' " La Cantine de Prou," the little inn where the char road from
Martigny comes to an end,' and its ' chasseur landlord, Andre
Dorsaz ' (' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' first series, p. 78), and
it is probably because of information given by Mr. Mathews
that the 1856 Murray mentions it (p. 321).
130 The early visitors to Zermatt were received on then-
way up or do-wn the vaUey by the cure at St. NUdaus. De
Saussure in 1789 (vol. iv. p. 883) does not teU us where he dined
in the ¦vUlage, but the first EngHsh party which came in 1800 to
these parts say expressly (' Alpine Journal,' vol. ¦m. p. 436): ' Next
day they found St. Nicholas in ruins ; the only house where they
could get anything to eat was the cure's, who suppUed them with
bread and cheese, weighing the cheese before and after the meal
and charging for the difference. He produced an old atlas, and
asked them to point out their country on the map, and then
observed with gravity they were the first EngHshmen he had
ever seen.'
The early Ebels — whether the original or the French and
Enghsh adaptations — say nothing as to the accommodation at
St. Niklaus. In 1825 Brockedon (p. 236) obtained some refresh
ment at the cur6's house, and borrowed his mule. In 1835
Engelhardt, making his first visit to this vaUey, stopped to dine
at the cure, Herr Sohulzki's, and was delighted to find that in
a previous year the cure had taken the best of care of a Stras
burg tourist who had been taken iU there. This roused Engel-

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 227
hardt's interest; for he too was a Strasburger, and thia was the
beginning of a long and intimate friendship with Herr Sohulzki,
whose house he visited again and again (1836, 1887, 1838, and
1889), and of whose hospitality he speaks in the most enthusi-
asticterms (' Naturschildermigen,' pp. 155-56). The 1888 Murray
(p. 247) confirms this estimate : ' The house of the cur^ is usually
resorted to by strangers, and his hospitahty never faUs,' though
Engelhardt teUs us that fi-om 1888 Herr Schulzki did not often
receive strangers, in consequence of his weak health, his curate,
however, taking his place in this respect. The 1842 (p. 266),
1846 (p. 284), 1851 (p. 278), Murrays repeat the formula of
1838. In 1841 and 1848 Engelhardt again stayed -with the
good cure (' Das Monte-Eosa- und Matterhorn-Gebirg,' pp. 85,
70). The 1843 Ebel (p. 459) mentions a fair inn, but adds
that bond-fide tourists are also received by the cure, and on
August 10, 1848, Professor Ulrich and his companions, coming
from Saas over the Eied Pass, slept there (' Berg- und Gletscher-
Fahrten,' 2nd series, p. 129). Dr. John Forbes dined at the cure's
on August 29 of the same year, Engelhardt coming up to sleep
there that very night, and as the worthy cure died soon after
(Engelhardt, p. 108), I may give some extracts from Dr. Forbes's
account (' A Physician's Holiday,' pp. 225-27), which shows us
that Herr Schulzki was as hospitable and kindly to strangers as his
brother cure, Herr Gottsponer of Zermatt, had been tUl his death
in 1847. Dr. Forbes was served by the cure himself. ' The good
father, dressed as he was in his long priestly coat, set about pro
viding aU we wanted with his own hands — laying the tablecloth
and dishes, grinding the coffee, and, in a word, performing all
the duties belonging to the offices of cook and footman. He
said his man-servant was away engaged at his farm work ; but
it was evident that his services could be well dispensed with, as
an exceUent breakfast of coffee, milk, eggs, butter, honey, cheese,
preserved plums, &c., was provided and nearly finished before
the man made his appearance. We were, of course, reluctant
to be thus waited on by a person of our host's profession, and
made many apologies ; but the good man soon con-nnced us
that they were unnecessary, by the unaffected readiness and
a 2

228 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
simplicity with which he served us. He seemed to act as if his
present proceedings were a necessary consequence of his social
position in this locality ; yet in doing what he seemed to feel to
be his duty he betrayed not the slightest evidence that the duty
was not perfectly agreeable to him ; nay, more, it seemed to me
that, whUe he was performing aU the functions of a servant, he
stiU preserved the bearing of a gentleman. There was no
symptom either of real pride affecting humility from vanity,
or of a real subserviency originating in a base nature and
practised for selfish ends. Everything with our good host
seemed natural, simple, and true. Without pretending to
believe that he was acting from reUgious motives, I confess that
in contemplating his proceedings, from first to last, I could not
help reverting mentally to that equality of the human brother
hood, which was both professed and practised by the founders of
the religion of which he was a member. When the time for
our departure came, [after a two hours' stay,] not kno-wing
exactly how I should remunerate our host for the expenditure
of his goods, I emptied my purse in my hand, and begged he
would obUge me by taking what he pleased. Without the
slightest coyness or hesitation, he at once turned over the various
pieces, and, selecting three French francs from among them,
gave me to understand that this was to be the payment. This
sum being less than we should have paid at a common inn, I
remonstrated, and pressed him to take more. I urged him to
accept merely a five-franc piece if he would take no more, but
he steadily refused. I then begged he would aUow me to give
him something for the poor or sick of his flock ; he, assented,
and betaking himself once more to the chaos of S^wiss money in
my hand, after some search he picked out the smaUest piece of
sUver money he could find, which seemed to be half a franc ;
and I could not prevaU on him to take anything more. This
conduct of our host, and all that had preceded this, excited
more than usual interest, and I entered more fuUy into conver
sation with the honest priest. Being struck with his bad German
and worse French, I asked after his nativities, and learnt that
he was a foreigner like myself in these regions, one of the exiled

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 229
sons of Poland, Johann Sczulski by name. He had wandered
from his country when quite a boy, and had spent nearly all
his life since in Switzerland. He was formerly cure of the
parish of Eanda, ftirther up the vaUey, and had been twenty
years in his present parish. . . . He has a large house, with a
good many beds scattered about it for the accommodation of
traveUers as weU as of friends.' Dr. Forbes saw the cm-e again
on August 31, on his way do-wn the vaUey (pp. 255-56). 'We
reached the hospitable mansion of our good Johann Sczulski
of St. Nicolas about eleven o'clock, and again had the benefit of
his friendly ministrations at our plentiful and luxurious break
fast. On this occasion we met Uke old friends, and what with
German and what with Latin, I contrived to obtain much
interesting information from the worthy and kind-hearted pastor.
It was on this occasion he gave me the minuter detaUs of the fall
of the avalanche at Eanda [in 1819] already noticed, of which
he had prepared at my request a short account in Latin. I
found his narrative quite in accordance with the information I
had obtained at the viUage of Eanda from an old man who had
also witnessed the faU. In taking leave of the good priest,
which I did not do without very friendly feehngs, I could not
prevaU upon him to accept more than a five-franc piece for aU
the trouble we had put him to, and for the free expenditure of
his worldly substance on five hungry men — for the guides were
his guests as weU as we. In final reply to my offers of service
to himself, if ever an opportunity should occur, the good man,
showing the same kindly nature as in everything else, recom
mended to my sympathy any of his unhappy countrymen who
might cross my path in their exUe. And so we took our leave
of St. Nicolas and its simple-minded and gentle priest.' He
was buried before the altar which he had so long served,
and his grave was -visited in 1849 by his old friend Engel
hardt (' Das Monte-Eosa- imd Matterhorn-Gebirg,' p. 108), who
was now compeUed to take up his quarters in the inn of
Anton Kalbermatten (iSici. p. 104), where there were then two
fair bedrooms for four to six people in all, while the accom
modation in general was good, and the prices moderate. A

230 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
second very convenient inn was about to be buUt, whUe the same
writer (' Das M. Eosa,' p. 126) says thatin 1849 there were no fewer
than three rival inns. The year 1849 therefore may be taken
as marking the change at St. Niklaus, from the primitive times
when the cure received foreign traveUers, to the more modern
plan of a regular inn. In 1851 Engelhardt again went to Kal-
bermatten's inn, which he says had long existed, and was weU
received there, finding a good table and clean beds. He adds
that the competition due to the buUding by the President of the
Commune (Herr Biihner) of a new inn, the Stern, just opposite,
will do much to secure traveUers good accommodation at
St. Niklaus, which is a very convenient halting-place (' Das
M. Eosa,' p. 229). The 1851 Murray resembles its predecessors
in mentioning the cure only, but my copy of that edition has
been carefully revised for the next edition, and contains a MS.
note to the effect that there is a smaU inn where a tolerable lun
cheon may be had. But this appears in rather a different shape in
the published 1852 edition (p. 280), where we read first the usual
phrase about the cure, with this addition, ' but there is a smaU
Inn (Sterne) kept by civil people.' By 1854 things seem to
have much improved, for Murray (p. 294) says : ' St. Nicholas.
Irvns : Sonne, new and good ; Kreutz, tolerable ; a good place for
a halt, and even for night quarters when the Zermatt inns are
fuU.' The Badeker of the same year mentions the Kreuz only,
without any remark as to its merits. These two inns were
for many years the usual halting-place for Zermatt -visitors,
and the Murray of 1867 (p. 847) teUs us that they were then
under one management. They were superseded by a big new
inn — the Grand H6tel de S. Nicolas — which existed as early as
September 1870, when I visited it, but which was probably then
new, as the 1871 Von Tschudi (' Ur- und Siid-Schweiz,' p. 106)
does not mention it. It duly appears in the 1872 Murray
(p. 367), and is there said to be a new and first-rate house, and
to contain fifty-six beds.
131 The 1838 Mm-ray (p. 295) mentions that shelter in
bad weather and refreshments were to be had here : but it s
not tUl the 1851 edition (p. 330) that we read : ' It has been

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 231
enlarged and even contains a bed or two,' the 1854 Badeker
(p. 213) specifying the number of beds at three.
132 The 1888 Murray (p. 300) mentions a house where a
glass of schnaps and shelter in bad weather might be had : in
the 1842 edition (p. 328) this is caUed the H6tel de la Couronne,
and said to be ' the usual halting-place between Chamouni and
Martigny.' Things were better in 1851 (p. 337), for it is caUed
a ' homely inn,' where good refreshments and ¦wine were to be
procured. It was rebuUt in 1851 (1852, p. 343), and in the
1854 edition (p. 348) bears the name of ' H6tel de la Tete Noire,'
and the character of ' fair and tolerable.' The 1844 Badeker
(p. 355) even caUs the old house ' Hotel de la Tete Noire,'
describing it as a sinaU inn where bread, wine, cheese and eggs
were to be had ; but the edition of 1854 (p. 219) says that a
new house of the same name was built in 1851, and that the
landlord was a man from Baden.
133 See 1854 Badeker, p. 120. Highly recommended in 1853.
' Good inn, comfortably furnished, with twenty-five beds ' (1854
Murray, p. 95).
134 The few traveUers who found their way to Engelberg
in former days were entertained by the monks of the great
Benedictine monastery (founded about 1120) — so Coxe in 1785
(1801 edition, vol. i. pp. 315-16). In 1852 and 1854 Herr G.
Cattani pubUshed pamphlets caUing attention to the place, and the
advantages it offered for the milk and air cure. His efforts were
so successful that the 1854 Badeker (p. 128) says that his inn,
the Engel (originaUy meant for the pilgrims), was often over
crowded by strangers, the pension price (without -wine) being
only 8 francs 50 cents a day. The early guide-books — Ebel,
Eichard, TraveUer's Guide — mention a single inn in the
¦viUage, not giving its name, but adding that traveUers were
hospitably received in the monastery. The 1838 Murray
(p. 90) mentions the Engel and the Eossli, the former from the
1842 edition (p. 96) onwards being characterised as ' good and
clean,' the latter having no distinguishing epithet. Berlepsch
(1862, p. 278) mentions MtiUer's and Cattani's inns, but it is
only in the 1863 Murray (p. 107) that the former is mentioned

232 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
('good, clean and moderate'), besides the Engel, whUe in the
1867 edition (p. 108) it is stated that the Engel was very good, and
that there was also the Titlis, as to which no detaUs are given.
As is well-known, the Titlis and Engel are now united in the
hands of Cattani, and the H. MiUler stiU goes on, whUe the H.
Sonnenberg, above the viUage, is mentioned by the 1873 BaU
(p. 174) as being ' new ' at that time. We may take 1854 as the
date at which Engelberg began to be frequented by traveUers,
as distinct from pUgrims.
135 When De Saussure visited Macugnaga in 1789 (vol. iv.
p. 841), he was received by one Anton Maria del Prato, the prin
cipal innkeeper, after intervention by the cure, for the arrival of
strangers had alarmed all the inhabitants. ' Cette auberge fut
pendant onze jours le centre de nos excursions ; nous etions
proprement loges, mais nous n'avions d'autres -vi^vres que ceux
que nous faisions venir de Vanzon ; car les habitants de Macu
gnaga et le cure meme ne se nourissent que delaitage et depain
de seigle que I'on fait six mois ou un an k I'avance, et qu'on
ne peut couper qu'avec la hache.' He appends a note to this
effect : ' M. del Prato m'a prie d'avertir les voyageurs qui
penseroient k venir k Macugnaga, de luiecrire un mot a I'avance
pour qu'U puisse faire des provisions et se disposer a les recevoir.'
The 1793 Ebel does not seem to mention the place at aU, that
of 1804 (vol. ii. p. 57) echoes De Saussure's remarks, and that
of 1809 (vol. U. p. 101) refers traveUers to the cure or to Del Prato.
In the 1818 French edition (vol. ii. p. 72), besides the cure
and his deputy, one Bartolomeo Vedoa is mentioned as the inn
keeper, and his house was possibly the dirty inn in which Herr
Hirzel-Escher (p. 33) lunched in 1822. In 1825 the inn was
'tolerable,' according to Brockedon (p. 251), who describes the
landlord (without giving his name, which was Verra) as ' a
deformed, but very civU host, who spoke French weU, having,
as I learnt, spent some time at Lyons as cuisinier,' and as ' my
civU Httle jEsop.' It was in that year that the TraveUers' Book
was begun at the inn, the names being almost aU English
(Schott, ' Die Deutschen Colonien in Piemont,' p. 53). The land
lord's real name was Gaspard Verra or Vera, and he received the

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 233
few earher %'isitors to his vaUey, e.g., Engelhardt (1835, ' Natur-
schUderungen' pp. 303, 311-12), Schott (1841), Forbes (1843,
p. 343-44). He ^^as deformed (in consequence of a fever)
as weU as blind, or very nearly so, had been a confectioner at
Lyons, spoke ItaUan, German and French, and is generally
mentioned favom-ably by his guests. Here is Professor Forbes's
account : 'For -¦• while I could not get access to the inn, untU
the landlord, a decrepit, hunchbacked, and blind man, though
StUl below middle age, made his appearance from labouring in
the hayfield, and by his pleasing manner, and his attention
soon gained my interest, and made me weU satisfied with
what his house afforded, which, indeed, was more than average
comfort, considering the remoteness of the spot. There was a
visitors' book, and I do not think that a dozen traveUers of
aU countries had entered their names since the previous year.
The landlord's name is Verra, and his wife is an obliging
person.' Eichard and Ebel aU this time merely note the fact
that there was an inn in the viUage ; whUe the 1838 Murray
(p. 243, foUowed by the 1842 and 1846 editions) practicaUy re
produces Brockedon, laying special stress on the fleas and non
descript food, but not disapproving of the poor little landlord
himself. In both the later editions (p. 273 and p. 292 respectively)
Mr. A. T. Malkin describes his experience on August 11, 1840,
at the Macugnaga inn thus : ' Worse quarters might be endured
for the sake of Monte Eosa. The master, a poor deformed man,
is very ci-vU and attentive, has some notion of cooking, and
professes to have four beds, of which I presume I got the worst,
and he can get others.' The inn is described by the 1851 Murray
(p. 274) as ' Gasthaus zum Monte Eosa, very tolerable and civU
people,' which the 1852 Murray (p. 276) identifies as Verra's inn,
&c. (as before). I have not been able to find out when he died
— it was certainly before 1855 (King's 'Itahan Valleys,' p.
454) — probably before 1854, for that year's Murray (p. 287)
says : ' Inn : Osteria di Vera, kept by Franz Lochmatter, who
is a good guide over the Moro; beds with fleas, and sorry
fare,' the 1854 Badeker (p. 251) giving the same names for the
inn and its landlord, but describing it more favourably as a

234 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
smaU German inn with clean beds, though somewhat scanty
food. Thus by 1854 Verra had been succeeded as innkeeper of
the village by Lochmatter.
Mr. King went up from Borca to visit Macugnaga, of which
he remarks, 'the inn was then simply miserable ' (p. 454). In
1856 Murray (p. 296) teUs us that Lochmatter 'is buUding a
new inn to be opened in 1856, and to contain twenty bed
rooms. He and his wife are honest and industrious, and merit
support.' Mr. Hinchliff thus describes the old inn in 1856
(' Summer Months,' p. 172) : ' Though his house is a mere rough
chalet, without even proper fastenings to the doors, he contrived
to make us thoroughly comfortable by his watchfiU attendance to
aU our wishes.' The authoress of ' A Lady's Tour round Monte
Eosa' (pp. 111-3) thus gives her impressions of the inn the
same year : ' We were led into the salle-d-tnanger, which was an
old-fashioned, low-roofed room of tolerable size, furnished -with
plain deal tables and benches instead of chairs. It contained a
large stove which made it thoroughly warm, and the room,
though humble, was not uncomfortable. Lochmatter's ¦wife
and sister attended to the guests, and were extremely ci^vU,
making the best of the scanty means at their disposal.' The
other inn was then kept by an Italian, Dominica, and it was
thither that, on a second visit in 1858, the same authoress went,
finding it scarcely finished, but in every way better than
Lochmatter's, except as regards the cookery (ibid. p. 195). It was
called the H6tel Monte Moro, and is mentioned in the 1858
Murray (p. 290) as the Hotel du Glacier, and new in 1858. In
1860 Lochmatter was building a new house to be opened the next
season (,' Alpine Byways,' p. 212), but the Monte Moro seemed
then to be the best. ' It was an agreeable surprise to find very
comfortable clean rooms, a nice salon, and a most attentive
host (Delmont Gaspard by name), whose good cuisine and
anxiety to make his house comfortable deserve to be rewarded.'
In 1861, Murray (p. 324) says that the Monte Moro was then
kept by Gaspard, and that the quarters were fair, and the people
civil : at Lochmatter's the people were rough but kindly. Later
the Monte Moro passed into the hands of Oberto (so in the

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 235
1872 Murray), but the Monte Eosa has always remained with
Lochmatter. The two are stUl rivals, the Moro being rather
ItaUan, the other more German ; but as Lochmatter's inn is
one of the recognised stopping-places for climbers, I have taken
the commencement of his reign — rather than that of his prede
cessor, poor Verra's — as the date at which to fix the appearance
of the Macugnaga inn in my Hst of Alpine inns.
[For some years about 1850 the inn at Macugnaga seems to
have faUen off, and tra\eUers preferred ' a tidy and clean little
inn ' — Osteria dei Cacciatori — 'at Borca, rather lower down the
vaUey. This was kept by the brothers Albasini, ' one a great
hunter, the other no mean cook' (1852 Murray, p. 276).
Mr. WUls thus describes the little inn in September 1852
(' Wanderings among the High Alps,' p. 98) : ' It was then — I
beUeve it has been modernized lately — a little, old-fashioned
cottage, with a pubhc room on one side of the doorway, and
on the other an apartment which served the family, of three
men and three or four women and a stray child or two, " for
parlour and kitchen and aU," and one or two bedrooms in the
low, sloping thatched roof, to which you climbed by a sort of
ladder. What became of the numerous famUy at night passed
our skUl to discover. Homely in the extreme, the place had
yet an air of cheerfulness and comfort, which made us very
glad to put up there for the night, and we were stiU better
pleased to find the testimony in the travellers' book uniform
and hearty as to the care, attention, and kindness of the host,
the cleanHness of the beds, and the exceUence of the cuisine.
It turned out that " I Cacciatori del Monte Eosa " was kept by
two brothers, one of whom was a crack hunter, and the other
an accompHshed cook — a most promising association.'
The 1854 Badeker (p. 251) caUs it unpretending and cheap.
Mr. S. W. King (' Itahan VaUeys of the Pennine Alps,' pp. 430-31,
444, 454), gives a most fascinating account of his delightful
stay of some days there in 1855, iUustrating it by a sketch
of the chalet inn. The 1856 Mm-ray (p. 296) informs us that
it made up six beds in two good sleeping-rooms. The authoress
of ' A Lady's Tour round Monte Eosa ' (p. 192) says that in

236 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
1858 : ' Borca is a favom-ite place for English travellers to stop
at, and it may be as well to mention that although the house is
a very smaU and old one, the landlord, Alessandro Albasini, is
reputed to have exceUent skUl in cooking and to be a worthy
and respectable man. He is also a renowned chamois hunter,
and I have heard this inn highly spoken of by persons who
have remained there several days.' The 1858 edition of Murray
(p. 290) stiU mentions it, as does also the 1859 Joanne (p. 419),
but the 1861 Murray (p. 824) states that the brothers had removed
themselves and the inn to Vanzone. And there the transferred
inn stUl flourishes, under the name of Hotel des Chasseurs.]
136 I can find no inn on this pass mentioned before the
passing allusion in the 1854 Badeker (p. 386). Mr. BaU
(' Central Alps,' p. 382) calls it an unattractive mountain inn,
and the 1867 Murray (p. 272), on making the first mention of
it, simply observes, '¦Inn. Poste, the first large house in the
Engadine.' My own recollections of the old inn in 1867 are as
unpleasant as those of other traveUers. The magnificent new
establishment was buUt about 1883.
187 I fix this date for the appearance of Pontresina in my
Hst because it is in this year that I first find the mention of
the Krone (in Badeker, p. 820 — ' German people and very
scanty arrangements '), which became later the rendezvous of
climbers. Murray mentions the Adler only from the 1846
edition (p. 235) — none being mentioned before — to that of
1858 (p. 234) ; and then in his 1861 edition (p. 272) speaks of
the Krone — ' good, very fair Hving, noisy at night ' — and the
Weisses Kreuz, ' also good and reasonable ' (p. 278). It was from
Gredig's inn that Messrs. Hardy and E. S. Kennedy started for
the Piz Bernina in July 1861 (' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,'
second series, i. 151) ; but it was probably the choice of that inn,
because of the glorious view of the Eoseg vaUey from its
windows, made on August 15, 1860, by the young son of the
authoress (Mrs. Henry Freshfield) of 'A Summer Tour in the
Grisons ' (pp. 71, 72, 186), that finally made the Krone the
mountaineers' inn for many years.
138 This inn was buUt by three partners, one of whom was

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 237
Joseph Euden, the cure of Zermatt, and was sold in 1862 to the
commune of Zermatt. See my paper on Zermatt, pp. 306, 821.
139 For the history of the hut on the pass, see my paper on
Zermatt, pp. 301, 306.
140 Bertolini's inn is not mentioned in the 1854 Murray (p.
304), or Badeker (p. 225), but in 1855 Mr. S. W. Kmg staid there
(' ItaUan VaUeys,' p. 82) finding ' welcome, excellent quarters,'
and ' an active landlord,' and the 1856 Murray (p. 319) speaks
of the Hotel Eoyal, kept by Bertolini ; ' clean, obliging land
lord.' 141 The 1854 Murray (p. 282) mentions ' a very clean Inn
kept by the famUy Luscos,' which Prof. Forbes well describes
on the occasion of his visit in 1842 (' Travels in the Alps of
Savoy,' pp. 326-27) ; though ' entertained less as guests at an inn
than as at a private house, and we found that the charges bore
a proportion to the favour thus conferred on us.' But the old
man died in 1854, and the new tenant was reported to be
churUsh and inhospitable to strangers, and hence, in 1855,
Mr. King and party were directed to the house of the Dela-
pierres, which had been recently opened for the reception of tra
veUers. This Mr. King found 'the most enjoyable resting-place
we met -with in Piedmont,' and made it his headquarters for a con
siderable tune ('ItaUan VaUeys,' pp. 261-62, 278-79, 298, 355).
Mr. King sent the foUo-wing note to the 1856 Murray (p. 290),
' Here is an inn kept by Chianale ; also Pension Delapierre is
highly praised, landlord most attentive, and an exceUent guide.'
The authoress of ' A Lady's Tour Bound Monte Eosa ' (pp.
305-6) -visited the inn in 1858, and speaks in the highest terms
of it. I beUeve that Delapierre's inn stUl flourishes, though
there is now a rival, H. du Mont Eose kept by Linty, which
is not mentioned by Mr. BaU in 1863 ('Western Alps,' p. 813),
but is noticed in the 1867 Murray (p. 342) as a new inn and
said to be highly spoken of
142 The 1851 Murray (p. 282) tells us that there is 'no
Inn, but the cure wUl receive strangers ' ; to which the 1852
edition (p. 286) adds, ' ladies as weU as gentlemen : five or six
francs is the usual douceur given for bed, supper, and breakfast ' ;

238 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
but Mr. WUls ('Wanderings,' pp. 215-16) gives amost unenticing
account of the quarters he found at the cure's house in Sept.
1852. This is probably the reason why the 1854 Murray (p. 299)
adds to the 1852 account the emphatic words ' very bad accom
modation,' and the Badeker of the same year (p. 257) simply
says that there is no inn. In 1855 Mr. King (' Itahan Alps,'
pp. 208-4, 216) ' found a smaU house had recently been fitted
up there as an inn, with the title of the Hotel du Mont Cervin ' :
the beds ' were tolerably clean ' ; ' to give him his due, the owner
was most anxious to do his best and make the most of his
humble resources ' ; the wine was better than any got at Aosta.
Mr. Hinchliff the same year found the inn ' dirty ' (' Summer
Months,' p. 153) ; whUe in 1856 Mr. W. Longman (' Six Weeks'
Adventures,' p. 97) calls it a ' most miserable inn, the landlord
of which has a very Italian bandit appearance,' adding, 'that the
inn was too wretched to aUow us to think of remaining there
for the night.' The 1856 Murray (p. 309) caUs it a 'rough inn,'
stiU keeping in the bit about the cure ; this bit is finaUy
omitted in the 1858 edition (p. 203), which only says that ' there
is now a rough Inn here,' while it was described in 1858 to the
authoress of ' A Lady's Tour Bound Monte Eosa ' (p. 385) as ' a
miserable "caserne," which nothing but dire necessity would
induce one to enter.' In 1860 matters had much improved, for
Mrs. H. Freshfield ('Alpine Byways,' p. 168), halting there for
lunch, says : ' The village of Tournanche formerly offerednothing
but a most miserable inn, kno-wn only to be avoided; but the land
lord has become enlightened, and has recently greatly improved
his house, in the hope of attracting some of the many traveUers
who now pass through the valley. We consequently found our
pro-visions quite unnecessary, but the man was extremely oblig
ing, and made no difficulties. The little salon was very tidy,
and the bedrooms looked clean, although very roughly fumished.
I must in honesty add, that we did hear afterwards that they
were not free from discomforts which do not present themselves
to a daylight view.' Yet the 1861 Murray (p. 349) describes
it as ' very rough and not cheap,' but in the 1863 edition (p. 349),
we read, ' H. du Monte Eosa, homely, but clean and cheap,' aud

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 239
Mr. BaU in the same year (' Western Alps,' p. 307) says that it
' affords tolerable quarters, but very inferior to those at Breuil.'
It had thus begun to improve, and stUl continues to be a homely
but very pleasant Uttle mountain hostehy.
148 The inn was only half buUt in the September of this
year : see ' A Lady's Tour Bound Monte Eosa ' (pp. 64-66, 71-72)
for some interesting notices of this weU-known inn during its
first year of existence. The 1858 Murray (p. 97) speaks of it as
' a very good inn.' Wellig had certainly retired from business
by 1874, possibly a Httle before, in favour of Herr Cathrein.
144 The Hotel du Mont Cer-vin at Giomein was this year
bidlt according to Gorret and Bich, ' Guide de la VaUee d'Aoste,'
p. 338, cf ' A Lady's Tour,' &c. (p. 379).
145 ' We then commenced the descent, stopping at a chalet
at Engstlen, which was in process of transformation into a hotel,
and there making a more substantial repast ' (W. Longman's
' Six Weeks' Adventures,' p. 68). ' A very comfortable httle inn,'
says the 1858 Murray (p. 103).
146 ' A Lady's Tour Bound Monte Eosa ' (p. 98) speaks in
September 1856 of ' the humble roof of the little inn. This
had only been opened a few months before, and was not quite
finished. The carpenter's chips were plentifully strewed over
the threshhold of the entrance. Our bedroom was small and
uninviting, but a colony of active Httle tormentors had already
estabUshed themselves there. We were, however, thankful for
the shelter which the place afforded us. . . . The larder was
not pro-vided -with abundant suppHes, but the cure had sent on
a few things by the porter. Poor as the place is, we contrived,
after a scanty repast, to sleep there soundly.' ' A convenient
inn ' (Murray, 1858, p. 293).
147 This was the Hotel de la Dent du Midi (A. de Claparede,
' La Val d'lUiez,' p. 87) ; c£ 1856 Murray, p. 172.
148 1858 Murray, p. 311. For descriptions of Jean Tairraz's
inn in its early days see, for 1858, 'A Lady's Tour,' p. 328, and
for 1860 Mrs. H. Freshfield's ' Alpine Byways,' p. 121.
149 This was the Hotel SUberhom (Peyer, p. 197). The
early narratives of excursions to Miirren are very curious. See

240 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
those of Wyss in 1814 (German edition pp. 439-54, French
edition vol. ii. pp. 36-52 ofthe ' Voyage dans I'Oberland Bernois '),
of G. Studer in 1843 (' Das Panorama von Bern,' p. 127), and
of Ober before 1850 (' L'Oberland Bernois,' vol. i. pp. 475-98) ;
a night being spent there in a hayloft in each case. ' E. W.'
first mentions the village in Murray (1846, p. 87) in an account
of the Sefinen Furke, but the name is misprinted 'Dilrren,' a
mistake which is not corrected till the edition of 1858 (pp. 76,
86), when it is said that refreshments may be had there ; 'the
good country inn H. du SUberhom ' is mentioned in the 1861
edition, p. 83. The Schilthom was ascended on the Miirren
side (descent into the Sausthal) by Herr Gottheb Studer and
two friends on August 8, 1843 (' Das Panorama von Bern,'
pp. 126-30), but it first appears in the 1856 edition of Murray,
p. 77. ' From Lauterbrunnen the SohUthorn may be ascended ;
the descent from this is down an apparent precipice,' though
in the 1858 edition (p. 76) it is spoken of in connection -with
Miirren. The first fuU account in EngHsh of the place and
of the peak is, as far as I know, that of a -visit in 1859, described
in chapter ii. of ' Alpine Byways.'
150 Pfarrer Strasser of Grindelwald suppHes me ¦with this
date and the information that it was buUt and the path up
greatly improved by Jakob WeismilUer, father of the present
proprietors. Previously there was only a stone hut on the
summit. The 1859 Joanne (p. 523) mentions the inn as having
been some years in existence, whUe the 1861 Murray (p. 79)
says it was two years old.
151 This inn was buUt in 1857 and opened in 1858, as I
learn from the present owner, M. Gratien Brunod, who has
supplied this information through the kindness of Signor S.
Cainer of the Itahan Alpine Club. The 1858 Murray (p. 355)
says, ' An hotel is talked of (1857) on the Mont Frety, on the
Courmayeur side,' whUethe 1861 edition says (p. 366) that 'an
Inn has now been built on the Mont Frety.' The earHest clear
mention of the inn in Alpine Hterature that I have come across
is in Professor TyndaU's ' Hours of Exercise in the Alps ' (p. 19),
from which it appears that the three English traveUers who

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 241
perished on August 15, 1860 in an avalanche whUe descending
the Italian side of the Col du G^ant were endeavouring to reach
the Mont Frety inn.
152 T he 1858 Murray (p. 208) says that an inn was being
buUt, while the 1859 Joanne (p. 385) says that it was buUt in
1858. The 1861 Murray (p. 354) says, ' Hotel de la Dent
Blanche, very good.'
158 ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' 1st series, p. 150 note, 2nd
series, vol. i. p. 861 (' Alphie Journal,' vol. i. p. 205). The 1861
Murray (p. 352) speaks of the 'very tolerable Inn at Zinal
(rough accommodation, good wine, civU people).'
154 This little inn was originally called Hotel du Dom, and
later, after being closed for several years (about 1868 or so ;
see 'Alpine Journal,' vol. iv. p. 239), took the name of Hotel
Weisshorn, by which it is now known.
155 I learn from Pfarrer Strasser of Grindelwald that the
first house dates from about that time, and that the present one
was built in 1871.
156 Mr. A. W. Moore -writes that he passed the night of July
8, 1861 in the ' little inn at Gruben, which was in an unfinished
state, and in my case opened its doors for the first time to
receive a traveUer ' (' Alpine Journal,' vol. i. p. 204). See a later
notice of this 'nice clean little inn' ('Alpine Journal,' vol. i.
p. 94). 157 I cannot find any mention of this inn earlier than in
Mr. Tuckett's accoimt of the Col du Mont Tondu in Mr. BaU's
'Western Alps' (first edition, p. 204). For 1864 see 'Alpine
Journal,' vol. ii. p. 292.
158 M. Durier (' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd edition, p. 288) says
that the inn was buUt at the same time that the mule path up
to the spot was constructed, and that it was considerably en
larged in 1866 and 1873.
159 Pfarrer Strasser of Grindelwald informs me that the
Hotel Alpenrose was buUt in 1861-62 and opened in 1863. Up
to that date a smaU inn was used which had been built in 1859,
next to the chalet on the Alpigelti, about twenty minutes' walk
below the present house.

242 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
160 This house existed as an inn in 1864 (see ' Das Hoch-
gebirge von Grindelwald,' by Aeby, Gerwer, and Von FeUenberg,
pp. 58, 136). I certainly slept there on the night of September
12-13, 1865.
161 'Alpine Journal,' vol. vi. p. 842. The inn was burnt
in 1880, but has been rebuilt.
162 The Pfarrer of Beatenberg, Herr E. E. Krahenbiihl
(elected 1855), did much to draw the attention of strangers to
his parish. Through his exertions the carriage road thither,
begun as long ago as 1851 , was completed in 1865, and the first inn
— H6tel des Alpes — was opened about that time. The Kurhaus
was buUt in 1875 (Peyer, pp. 197-98, and information from Pfar
rer Strasser of Grindelwald). The place does not seem to be
mentioned in Murray tUl the 1872 edition (p. 80).
168 Mr. A. W.Moore thus describes his experiences on July8,
1865 ('Alpine Journal,' vol. v. p. 316) : 'We reachedAroUa, where
we found one of the chalets in com-se of being transmogrified
into an inn. The carpenters were stUl at work, and only one
room, containing three beds, was in a finished state ; but the
accommodation was sufficient for our party, and as the beds
had not been occupied before, we were free from the entomo
logical annoyances for which the place has since [vsrritten in
1872] become rather notorious.' Mr. A. B. HamUton gives a fuU
account ofthe origin of this inn (' Alpine Journal,' vol. -vi. p. 21) :
' On this spot, a Uttle over 6,000 feet above the sea, the landlord
of the present inn buUt in 1865, a "mayen " or chalet for
summer use only, to which he could retreat in the heat of
August. TraveUers arriving from the Col de Colon or some
other glacier pass, and seeing a new chalet, insisted upon sleep
ing there, and consequently, in 1866, my friend summoned
sufficient courage to try and convert his summer palace  though
not quite on the same scale as that of the Chinese emperors 
into a hotel. I can vouch for its having contained at least one
comfortable bed, though I beheve the complaints sometimes
made of the further sleeping accommodation have not always
been without foundation. The question has, however, only an
historical interest, as the old imi wiU be superseded in the

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 243
course of the present summer [1872] by a new hotel of simUar
proportions to the one at Evolena.' See also ' Alpine Journal,'
vol. V. p. 398.
164 Through the kindness of Signor S. Cainer of the Italian
Alpine Club, I have procured the following particulars from Dr.
Pasta. The inn was buUt in 1865-66, and was opened to the
pubHc in June 1867. It is mentioned in the 1867 Murray
(p. 315). See, too, 'BoUettino del Club Alpino Italiano,' 1868,
pp. 223-25.
165 See note 91, ad finem, p. 198.
166 Pfarrer Strasser of Grindelwald informs me that this
was the date at which the beautifuUy situated Httle H6tel
Alpenrose was buUt.
167 Pfarrer Strasser also tells me that the Hotel des Alpes
was opened in 1868.
168 A hut was built on the summit by one Dorig in 1845,
and his son built, in 1868, an inn there which has been fre
quently enlarged since then (' Zeitschrift des Deutschen und
Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins,' vol. xix. p. 255). The but is
first mentioned (as an ' Inn ') by the 1851 Murray (p. 195), and
is spoken of in aU the subsequent editions (except that of 1867)
tUl 1872, when (p. 231) we hear of a chalet -with three beds which
in the 1879 edition (p. 223) is described as 'lately enlarged.'
The 1888 Von Tschudi (p. 337) says it is ' good and cheap.'
169 Formerly the only inn at Davos am Platz was the Eath-
haus or town haU itself, of which as lately as 1863, Murray (p.
277) says that ' in its primitive style these mountains perhaps
do not afford a better,' and that ' it was formerly decorated
¦with more than thirty wolves' heads slain in the neighbourhood.'
Mrs. Henry Freshfield found in 1861 a newly -built inn, Kur
haus zum Strela, and lodged there, describing it as being nicely
furnished, ' with six or seven bedrooms and a comfortable>
though small, salon and ante-room.' It was kept by Herr
Gnadig (or Gredig). This and other details relating to the time
when the Davos vaUey was rarely visited by traveUers may be
found in chapters 15 and 16 of that lady's ' A Summer Tour in
the Grisons.' According to Herr Peyer (p. 218) Badeker in 1868
E 2

244 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
says that the place had lately become frequented by invalids.
We leam from an interesting article on the place by J. Hauri
(in Professor Osenbriiggen' s ' Wanderstudien aus der Schweiz,'
1881, vol. vi. p. 156) that the local doctor found that the cHmate
was well suited for persons suffering from consumption, from
which the natives were all but exempt, and that in 1865 a
German doctor from Saxony, Dr. Unger, a sufferer from that
disease, settled down there and regained hia health. This laid
the foundation of the fame of Davos, ¦which is now probably
the most frequented ' air cure ' in Europe, if not in the world.
The Eathhaus and Strela inns stiU exist, but there are also a
great number of others, furnished with every comfort, as weU as
many private viUas.
170 We learn from the ' BoUettino del Club Alpino ItaUano,'
(1868, p. 241), that in 1867 a first inn had been burnt, but that in
1868 the proprietor Pierre Fosson had built another — Hotel des
Cimes Blanches — which contained six rooms and eight beds,
and was to be enlarged. The 1872 Murray (p. 366) says that
' fair accommodation ' can be obtained there, and it is mentioned
as ' a little mountain inn ' by Mr. Ball in 1873 (p. 329), a phrase
which in the 1875 edition (p. 329) has become ' a very good
Httle mountain mn.' The 1888 Von Tschudi (pp. 290-295)
calls it solitary and small but good.
171 The H6tel Nesthorn did not exist in 1867 as I can
testify from my experiences in the Lotschthal that year, nor
apparently in August 1868 (' Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpen
club,' vol. vi. p. 152-53, yet see 'Alpine Journal,' vol. iv. p.
239). It must, however, have been btdlt that autumn, for in
1869 Herr Haberlin warmly recommends it and its landlord
J. J. Lehner, speaking of it as ' a new inn ' (S. A. C. Jahrbuch,
vol vi. p. 65). It is now well known to mountaineers as a very
pleasant little mountain inn, not yet enlarged into a Grand H6tel.
172 Pfarrer Strasser gives me the date 1871 ; Herr Bohren
Eitschard, formerly landlord of the Adler at Grindelwald, says
1872; yet the 1870 Von Tschudi (' Nord- und West-Schweiz,"
p. 115) mentions it as then existing.
173 This date is the one given for the buUding of the inn by

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 245
the guide Bovier of Evolena to a Lausanne fi-iend to whom I
appHed for information. Mr. Schuster teUs me that it was just
opened when he visited it in 1876.
174 ' Cronaca del Club Alpino Italiano,' p. 79.
175 1879 Murray, p. 376.
176 1880 Von Tschudi, p. 307, 'a rough inn.' A large new
buUding -was being constructed in 1888 (to be opened in 1884) to
serve as an inn (' Alpine Journal,' vol. xi. p. 396). The ' Cronaca
del Club Alpino Itahano ' (p. 79) says it was opened in 1883
and had twenty beds. It was certainly open in July 1886, when
I visited it.
177 See ' Alpine Journal,' x. 112. M. Martel, however
(' Annuaire du Club Alpin Fran5ais,' 1887, p. 77), says distinctly
thatit was opened in 1881.
178 ' Alphie Journal,' vol. x. p. 487, cf vol. xi. p. 397. In
1844 M. Desor found at the Pedemon chalets ' une petite
auberge ou nous fumes acoueUUs avec beaucoup de prevenance
par I'aubergiste qui n'a pas I'habitude de recevoir beaucoup
d'etrangers ' (' NouveUes Excursions et Sejours dans les Glaciers,'
p. 40). The authoress of ' Alpine Byways' (pp. 48-50) tells in
1859 the melancholy tale of how a man buUt a large house at the
Alpe Devero, meant to serve as an hotel, but it had to be closed
as he lost his license in consequence of bankruptcy. He showed
his visitors over the house, which contained large rooms devoid
of any furniture beyond dairy utensils, glass, and crockery.
179 The Hotel du Dome was opened this year (' Alpine
Journal,' vol. x. p. 487) and a new large inn (owned by Loch
matter of Macugnaga) in 1887.
180 ' A most comfortable Httle inn. Hotel Ofenhorn,' was
opened this year at Binn (' Alpine Journal,' vol. xi. p. 481).
181 ' Eivista Alpina Itahana,' 1883, 108. ' Alpine Journal,'
vol. xi. p. 304, vol. xii. p. 62.
182 See note 104, p. 212.
183 De Saussure ('Voyages dans les Alpes,' vol. ii. pp.554, 558.
562-63, 573 — reproduced in Bourrit's ' Description des Cols, ou
Passages des Alpes,' vol. i. pp. 64, 69, 75) mentions this hut and
gives a fuU account of its buUding and of its appearance. It

246 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
was constructed of stones (without any mortar), against a great
rock, by the orders of Bourrit, who had suffered greatly from
cold during a bivouac in the open at the same spot on September
16-17, 1784. It afforded but rough quarters, and the door was
formed by an opened umbrella, yet De Saussure slept weU and
spent a second night (September 18-14, 1786) there, Bourrit
descending to the vaUey after one night's experiences. This
was on the occasion of an attempt (the first by traveUers) to
ascend the AiguiUe du Goiiter, and thence gain the top of Mont
Blanc. 184 De Saussure ordered the buUding of this hut in August
1786 immediately after the first ascent of Mont Blanc by Dr.
Paccard and Jacques Balmat. Bad weather prevented him
from using it that year, and in 1787 he preferred to sleep in a
tent much higher up (' Voyages,' vol. iii. pp. 144, 159 ; Durier,
' Le Mont Blanc,' second edition, p. 133). It was situated at the
base of the rocks of the Grands Mulets, where one leaves the
glacier now-a-days ; but as early as 1802 it had lost its roof,
though the rums were plainly seen as late as 1844 (Bourrit,
' Description des Cols,' vol. i. p. 107 ; Durier, pp. 276-77).
185 This hut was built of stones in June 1788, and was
occupied by De Saussure's party during their famous sojourn of
seventeen days (July 3-19) on the pass. It was six feet square,
but very low, and there were many holes in the waUs, so that
it was half full of snow on their arrival (' Voyages dans les
Alpes,' vol iv. pp. 218, 220-25 : there is a -view of it in Plate Hi. at
the end of volume iv.). The ruins of this hut were found by
Prof. J. D. Forbes, on July 23, 1842. ' The rock under which
we breakfasted had supported the " Cabane " of De Saussure. I
pleased myself with contemplating a board which yet remained
of the materials of his habitation, and a very considerable
quantity of straw, which lay under the stones which had formed
its walls. The frosts of this elevation had preserved the straw
in a pretty fresh state for half a centm-y. ... It is still well
remembered at Courmayeur that, that month of July, having
been exceedingly dry, the report arose, that the sorcerers who
had established themselves on the mountain had stopped the

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 247
avenues of rain, and that it was gravely proposed to send a
deputation to dislodge them by force ' (' Travels in the Alps of
Savoy,' pp. 228-29 ; ' The Tour of Mont Blanc,' pp. 66-68 ; see
also Durier's ' Le Mont Blanc,' second edition, p. 216 note). In
August 1853, Mr. WiUs found traces of the encampment ; ' a few
fragments of straw, preserved by the frost, are the sole material
relics of his adventurous sojourn ' (' Wanderings among the
High Alps,' p. 21). Messrs. Hudson and Kennedy (' Where
there's a WUl there's a Way,' first edition, p. 10), speakmg of
their visit to the col on August 7, 1855, write : ' A few stones
alone mark the site of his encampment.'
186 This was buUt in 1829 (so Hugi himself) on the moraine
at the foot of the Absch-wung, and visited again by him in 1880
and 1836, ha^ving advanced a great distance between these years.
(Agassiz, ' Etudes sur les Glaciers,' pp. 148-50 ; Hugi, ' Naturhis
torische Alpenreise,' p. 230 ; Desor, ' Excursions et Sejours,' first
series, pp. 138-39). M. Desor visited it in August 1839, finding
the stone waUs in good preservation and the inside stUl lined
-with hay (ibid. p. 138, and see M. Agassiz's representation of
it in Plate xiv. of his ' Etudes '). But he found it quite ruined
in 1840 (ibid. p. 148), and hence had to buUd another hut.
187 This was a hut buUt of stones (in 1840) to replace Hugi's,
and 2,000 feet further up the moraine, against a great boulder
on the central moraine of the Unteraar glacier. It sheltered
MM. Agassiz, Desor, and their friends during their study ot.
glacier phenomena, and was even visited by them in the
February of 1841, when it was found quite buried in the snow
(Desor's ' Excursions et Sejours dans les Glaciers,' first series,
pp. 156, 270 — and the iUustration facing p. 156). M. Desor in
1844 found that the great boulder had spht into two pieces, and
that the hut was ruined (' NouveUes Excursions et Sejours,'
p. 117). Some of the great stones which formed this hut were
found in 1884 on the moraine, 2,400 metres lower down than in
1840 (' Alpme Journal,' vol. xii. pp. 177-78).
188 The PaviUon was buUt by MM. Desor and Agassiz high
up above the left bank of the Unteraar glacier, as being safer
than the central moraine where two huts had already perished —

248 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
Hugi's and the Hotel des Neuchatelois. M. DoUfus-Ausset
built two days later another hut close by, ' qu'U appela la Smala
pour la distinguer du PaviUon,' and this was ultimately handed
over to the guides (Desor's ' Excursions et Sejours,' pp. 590-1).
But as M. DoUfus frequently came thither in later years (untU
1864 in fact) to pursue his researches, and rebuUt the hut, it
came to bear the name of PavUlon DoUfus. It was a soUdly
built stone cabin with two rooms. In 1872 the heirs of M.
DoUfus formaUy presented it to the Swiss Alpine Club, which,
after the Hash authorities, to whom it legaUy reverted on
M. DoUfus's death, had in 1873 granted the club the right
of using the hut, has repaired a smaU part of the ruins of the
old house. It was originally placed under the charge of the
Oberland section, and is now under that of the Zofingen section
(see ' Jahrbuch des S. A. C vol. viu. p. 610, vol. ix. p. 601-2).
189 M. Durier (' Le Mont Blanc,' second edition, pp. 279-85)
gives a full history of the first wooden hut on the Grands
Mulets, constructed by the guides, and inaugurated on September
21, 1853. In 1866-67 considerable changes were made. The
old hut was given over to the giudes, whUe of the three new
rooms added, two were reserved for traveUers and the tlurd was
used as a kitchen and sitting-room. It has since become practi
caUy a little mountain inn .with servants resident during the
season, and was long managed by Sylvain Couttet, of the Pierre
Pointue inn.
190 This hut, buUt by M. Guichard, was meant, Hke Bourrit's,
to faciUtate the ascent of Mont Blanc by the AiguUle du Goiiter :
but it was nearly in ruins in 1855 (see Mr. BaU, ' Western Alps,'
1863, p. 212 ; ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' First Series, 60-61 ;
and Messrs. Hudson and Kennedy's 'Where there's a WiU
there's a Way,' first edition, 30-32, second edition, 36-88). In
the latter work another cabane, buUt in 1858, is mentioned, of
which I can find no further account.
191 See M. Durier's ' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd edition, p. 308 «. ;
' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' 1st series, p. 70. It was com
pletely rebnUt in 1882 by the St. Gervais guides (' Annuaire
" du Club Alpha Fran9ais,' 1887, p. 63).

Notes on Swiss Inns and Huts 249
192 This is the wooden hut (sometimes caUed ' Cabane du
Tacul) at the foot of the southern rocks of the AiguiUe du Midi,
which is generally fuU of ice (M. Durier's ' Le Mont Blanc,' 2nd
edition, pp. 318-19).
193 The waUs were built by the Todi section ofthe S. A. C.
in 1868, and the roof put on in 1864 (see ' Alpine Journal,' vol. i.
p. 320, and ' Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclub,' vol. i. p. 42, vol.
u. p. 516). There is a woodcut of this hut — the first ever buUt
by the S. A. C. — on the last cited page. It was repaired in 1870
and 1878 ('Jahrbuch des S. A. C vol xvii. p. 359).
194 This hut was originally built in 1864 (' Jahrbuch des
S. A. C vol. U. pp. 9, 28, 30). A new one was buUt not far off
in 1867 (ihid. vol. iv. p. 31, vol. v. p. 741, vol. vi. p. 578). These
two huts are the first buUt by the S. A. C, the Silvretta hut
foUowing in 1865. By the end of 1872 the Club possessed twelve
huts ('Jahrbuch,' vol. -viu. p. 610) ; in 1874, 14 (ibid. vol. x. p.
634) ; m 1875, 13 (ibid. vol. xi.p. 600) ; m 1876, 23 (ibid. vol. xu.
p. 530, vol. xui. pp. 450-58) ; m 1879, 26 (ibid. vol. xiv. p. 592,
vol. xui. p. 632) ; in 1880, 28 (vol. xv. pp. 537, sqq.) ; and in 1888,
32 (see Ust in the appendix to vol. xxiU. ofthe 'Jahrbuch').
195 BuUt by Herr WeUig (' Alpine Journal,' vol. U. p. 160).
Its successor — the Concordia hut — rather higher up the glacier,
was buUt by Herr Cathrein in 1877.
196 BuUt by the Italian Alpine Club (with the proceeds of
a subscription) on the Cravate (' BoUettino del C. A. I.' 1868,
pp. 49-52, 58-59, cf. 'Alpine Jom-nal,' vol. ii. pp. 268-69;
Whymper's ' Scrambles,' pp. 418-19, ' Ascent of Matterhorn,'
pp. 307-8). The hut at the foot of the Grande Tour was buUt
in 1885 by the Aosta section.
197 BuUt by Herr SeUer and the S. A. C. (' Alpine Journal,'
vol. iv. p. 158 ; Whymper's ' Scrambles,' p. 420 ; • Ascent of
Matterhorn,' p. 309). The lower Matterhorn hut was buUt in
1880. 198 A hut was begun in 1865 on the rocks of the Monch at
a considerable height above the Monchjoch, but it was never
roofed or completed as the position was found to be too exposed
(' Jahrbuch des S. A. C vol. ix. pp. 546-7). The Grmdelwald

2 50 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books
guides (by whom the hut was buUt) therefore constructed one in
1869 much lower down on the rocks of the Bergh, part of the
materials of the old hut being used for the new one (ibid. vol. ix.
pp. 547-51), and part of the expenses being borne by the S. A. C.
and the Bern section. It was rebuilt in 1883 at a rather higher
point on the same rock, the Bern section defraying the cost
and now having it in its charge (ibid. vol. xix. p. 725).
199 For many years the only shelter at the S. foot of the
Wetterhorn was under the great boulder kno-wn as the Gleck-
¦stein, of the state of which in 1854, when the cave had not been
fitted up at aU, Mr. WUls bas given a vi^vid picture ('Wander
ings among the High Alps,' pp. 281-84).
In 1870 the Grindelwald guides built a hut not very far
away, called the Weisshorn Hiitte (Hst of huts in appendix to
S. A. C. 'Jahrbuch,' vol. xxiU.), and in 1880 this was rebuUt by
the S. A. C, and placed under the charge of the BliimUs Alp
section (' Jahrbuch des S. A. C vol. xvi. p. 591).
200 Built by the Monte Eosa section of the S. A. C. (' Jahr
buch des S. A. C vol. x. p. 681, vol. xi. pp. 525-80, 600, 614).
201 BuUt by the Oberland section of the S. A. C. (' Jahrbuch
¦des S. A. C xiU. 682). Enlarged and rebuUt by the Basel section
in 1886 (ibid. xxi. 562, and Hst of huts in appendix to vol. xxiU.).
This hut replaces the old cave under the great boulder named
the Kastenstein.

251

HOW ZEBMATT
BECAME A MOUNTAINEEBING CENTBE.
Alpine climbers have not had much to do as yet with
centenary and jubilee celebrations. The chief excep
tion to this rule was the case of the festivities at
Chamonix in 1886 and 1887, in honour of the ascents
of Mont Blanc in 1786 by Dr. Paccard and Jacques
Balmat, in 1787 by De Saussure. Now, in the year
1889, the village of Zermatt might, if it chose, cele
brate both a centenary and a jubilee, though I have
not heard that any festivities have . actually been ar
ranged. Yet the events which might be commemorated
are important ones in the development of the village
as a great mountaineering centre : for in 1789 De
Saussm-e paid a visit to Zermatt which is the first re
corded visit by a traveller of which a detailed account
has been preserved,' while in 1839 Dr. Lauber's little
inn was opened, being the first hotel in the village
which was specially intended for the accommodation of
travellers. It may be of interest to some readers to
have set before them a sketch of the rise of Zermatt as
a mountaineering centre (down to 1855, a date which
in several respects forms an epoch in the history of

252 The History of Zermatt
the village), as weU as a briefer outline of its general
history, pohtical and ecclesiastical.^
Though it is not much more than a hundred years
since its existence became known to travellers, it must
not be supposed that Zermatt was then a new village,
for we can trace its history back for over six hundred
years. The main hamlet (in den Hoffen) probably always
stood in its present position, but local tradition places
the site of an older village, named Zu den tiefen Matten,
in the Zmutt valley, at the foot of the Hohwang or
Schonbuhlberg, where fragments of household or stable
utensils brought down by the glacier are said to have
been found within recent times. This is supposed to
have been colonised from the Evolena or Anniviers
(Einfisch) valleys, and is thus connected with the tale
of an old pass across the glaciers to one or other of
these valleys. Pfarrer Euden (pp. 143 sqq.) cites several
bits of evidence in support of this ancient passage : —
a paved track at the foot of the Hornh; the name
' Eifischbalme ' still given to a spot on the Schonbiihl-
berg; the facts that certain Zermatt sm-names are
found in fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth century
documents preserved in the archives of various places,
particularly Evolena, in the Val d'Herens, and that
some of these people are distinctly said to have settled
in Evolena in 1443. The most cogent argument yet
adduced is an ordinance of Bishop Henry Esperlin of
Sion, dated 1455, in which the priest of St. Martin (a
church in the Val d'Herens, some way below Evolena)
is ordered to maintain a chaplain ' qui sciat hnguam

The History of Zer.matt 253
theotonicam in ecclesia' (i.e. for the German- speaking
immigrants), and who was to live 'in interiori de
Evolenaa ' if the priest himself did not care to do so ;
this ordinance is said to be based on an express request
of the Zermatters dating as far back as 1364. It is
uncertain whether the annual procession to Sion went
thither across the glaciers or not, though a local legend
asserts that a sacristan one morning rang the bells for
early mass in Zermatt, and was in Sion when the
Angelus bell rang there the same evening. The exist
ence of an annual procession to Sion (possibly to pray
against bad weather) is certain, for in 1666 it was
altered by a decree of the Bishop of Sion, probably
owing to the difficulties of the way, into one to Tasch,
in which one member from each household was to
join ; fees were to be paid to the priests of Tasch and
Zermatt for saying mass and leading the procession
respectively, to the sacristan of Tasch for ringing the
bells, and to the three churches of Our Lady, S. Theo
dule, and S. Katharine at Sion. It was to these
churches that the original procession had wended its
way, and the fees fixed in 1666 were paid to them
annually until 1816, when they were commuted for a
lump sum paid down.
Such is the legendary history of this vanished
viUage. Zermatt itself is first mentioned in an
authentic document of 1280, printed by Pfarrer Euden
(pp. 100-1), and was then apparently quite an old-
estabhshed place.' This is a deed, dated October 27,
1280, by which one Walter de Eiede, with the leave of
his son Peter and of his daughters Salome and Emma,

254 ^-^^ History of Zermatt
and of John de Eiede, guardian of the other children of
Walter who were still minors, sold for twenty pounds,
paid down, to Walter the son of Emke and his heirs, his
meadow at Finellen (Eindelen), and house above, with
a chalet, together with his share an der ekkun (Eggen-
Alp), with the water, and all other things appertaining
to it. There are four witnesses named, one of them,
Walter, the ' curatus,' or parish priest, ' de Prato-
borno.' This deed was drawn up on behalf of Norman,
the precentor and chancellor of the cathedral church
of Sion, the scribe being Peter, ' capellanus juratus.'
The curse of God is invoked on any one who shaU dare
to transgress the provisions of the deed, and such
person is also to pay sixty pounds and a gold obolus
to the king. The deed was executed ' apud Prato-
borniim,' 'Eodolpho regnante, Petro episcopante.'
The latter was Peter I., bishop of Sion from 1275 to
1287, while the former is no other than Eudolf of
Habsburg himself, the first of his house to come any
where near the imperial throne, for he was elected
King of the Eomans in 1273, though he died on July
15, 1291, having never received the imperial crown at
Eome. As the famous ' Everlasting League ' between
the men of Uri, of Schwyz, and of Nidwald, which was
the beginning of the Swiss Confederation, was only
made on August 1, 1291, we may picture to ourselves
Zermatt as a flourishing village before the Swiss Con
federation existed ; while we must not forget that it
did not formally become part of the Confederation till
the admission of the Valais in 1815 as a full canton
by decree of the Congress of Vienna.

The History of Zermatt 255
Next in point of date comes the will of the afore
said Norman, precentor and chancellor of Sion, which
is dated April 24, 1285, a few days before his death
on May 6.'' By it he leaves a legacy of two ' solidi
censuales ' to the church of Pra Borno or Zermatt, in
which he seems to have had some special interest,
though we know not of what nature. One of the
witnesses was John, the priest of Chouson, Gasen, or
St. Niklaus, in which parish Zermatt was then included.
As similar legacies are bequeathed to the churches of
Simplon, Naters, Visp, S. Nicholas of Chouson, Earon,
and Leuk, we may assume that Zermatt was a place
of a certain amount of importance.
The men of Prato Borno are mentioned on the
side of the count in the great peace made on August
16, 1291, between Jocelin of Blandrate, near Novara,
'Major' (or Count) of Visp from 1282 to 1309, and the
Val Anzasca men, by which it was agreed that the
proceeds of any thefts or robberies of the goods and
chattels of the Val Anzasca men should not be carried
through the territories of the men of Prato Borno.
The Zermatt men are coupled with their neighbours
of Saas and Chouson [St. Niklaus], so that their vil
lage cannot have been an insignificant place.^ In
1818, Walter ' de Lavota,' of Visp, the priest of Pra
Borno, is one of the witnesses — second on the list — to
a grant of a house at Sion by the bishop and chapter
of Sion to William of Anniviers ; ^ while in 1324, John,
son of William of Prato Borno, acknowledges that he
owes homage and certain dues in kind and in money
to Philip, the parish priest of Visp.'' In 1334, we

256 The History of Zermatt
hear that Perrin the clerk, of Earon, is granted by the
chapter of Sion the rights of a notary (cancellaria) in
the parish of Prato Borno, as well as in those of Earon,
Niedergestelen, Lotschen, Visp, Chouson, and Saas,
in return for an annual render of thhteen measures
of corn. By virtue of this grant he alone in the dis
trict could draw up wills and contracts to last for
more than eight years.' In 1860, Peter de la Tour,
lord of Gestelen or Chatillon, leaves in his will (dated
October 15) his castle of Chatillon, with the vaUeys of
Lotschen, Chouson, and Praborny, with all appurte
nances and appendages, to his son Antony (the last
baron of this house), over and above the third equal
share he is to receive of the rest of his father's pos
sessions.' In 1857, Prato Borno is mentioned as one
of the places in which John de Mont had made over
his hereditary rights to his wife Isabella."' In 1362,
Guichard Tavelli, bishop of Sion, makes peace with
the men of Morel, Amen, and Conches. In the
course of this lengthy document (Jan. 4), the bishop
promises if he is released from bondage to remove
the interdict under which he had laid the parishes of
Chouson and Prato Borno for having joined the afore
said men in their war against him, and withheld dues
payable to him ; and also to ' reconcile ' (i.e. account
as consecrated) if need be the churchyards of the
same two villages, reserving all the tithes and aU
payments and services due to him, but pardoning the
murders, fires, and plunderings which they had com
mitted in this war ; on January 10, he ratified his
promises and removed the interdict.^' An entry in

The History of Zermatt 257
the roU of tithes payable, about 1864, to the Bishop
of Sion, shows that the priest of ' Pratoburnoz ' was
taxed at ten solidi only ; while his neighbour of
Chouson paid twenty-four, thus showing that Zermatt
was not nearly so rich a place as S. Niklaus.'^ An
allusion in a document of 1368 to the possessions
of Marquet of Visp at Chouson and ' super Prato
Broni ' — which had been forfeited to the Bishop of
Sion, because they had been alienated, and feoffment of
them had not been obtained from the bishop, though
Peter de la Tour maintained that they were his fiefs,
and which the arbitrator. Count Amadous VI. of
Savoy, declares to belong to the bishop '' — is the latest
entry I can find relating to Zermatt in M. Gremaud's
collection of nearly 2,200 documents concerning the
Valais. In aU these documents it will be noticed that the
viUage is called Pra Borno, or Prato Borno, or some
form of this name, which still lingers on as Praborgne.
In all probability it is derived from ' pre borne,'
referring to the meadows which form the parish and
are shut in on all sides by rugged hills. It is a
relic of the days before the Teutonic settlement of
the valley, the date of which I have not been able to
ifix precisely. The name ' Prato Borno ' occurs in
1368, as we have seen, for the last time in M. Gre
maud's collection of documents; whUe in Konrad
Tiirst's map of Switzerland, made 1495-97, we find
' Matt,' so that the settlement must have taken place
between those dates. ' Zermatt ' seems to be quite a
modern form of the name, for the latest edition (1778) s

258 The History of Zermatt
of the 'Delices de la Suisse' calls it 'Matt,' though
De Saussure in 1789 speaks of ' Zer Matt.' The first
edition of Ebel's Swiss Guide-book (1793) does not
mention the Visp valleys at all, whUe the second
(1804-5) and third (1809-10) mention our viUage as
' Zer Matt, Zur Matt, Praborgne,' and the French
edition of 1818 as ' Zermatt, Matt, Zur Matt, en
fran9ais Praborgne.' It was from the meadows which
gave the name to the village that the great peak
above them, the Matterhorn, also got its name, as
well as the pass over into Italy.'*
The documents of 1350, 1857, and 1368 appear to
be the only ones of a date earher than the fifteenth
century in which we hear of any family possessing rights
over Zermatt. It is not known how the great and power
ful clan of La Tour-ChatiUon acquired a title to posses
sions in the Visp valleys, and doubtless they were lost
after its expulsion from the Valais (1875) and the sale
of their castle (1376) to the bishop, Edward of Savoy.'*
The later secular history of Zermatt seems to be
pretty well known. '^ The inhabitants were in mediae
val times the serfs of three separate famihes : — -
(1) The Werras of Leuk, mentioned as part lords of
the village in 1485, who in 1515 bought half the vaUey
from the heiress of the Esperhns of Earon, a family
which had held it as early as 1448, and which is said
by Furrer '^ to have bought in 1355 certain rents in
che valley from Peter de la Tour, lord of ChatiUon.
In 1515, 115 households belonged to the Werras.
(2) The Perrinis of Leuk, mentioned about 1515
as owning thirty-five households.

The History of Zermatt 259
(3) The De Plateas of Visp, one of whom bought a
share of the lordship (24 households) in 1482 from
others of the same family.
The Kalbermatters of Visp bought a part (15
households) from the De Plateas in 1528, but later
the De Plateas regained it, partly by will, partly by
purchase, though Furrer '^ says that as late as 1621
Josef Kalbermatter, then serving in the French army,
had certain feudal rights in Zermatt over persons and
lands which were bound to render military service.
The rights of these famUies were gradually bought
up by their serfs, who thus became free. The Werras
were thus bought out in 1538, the Perrinis in 1562,
the De Plateas in 1618. On gaining their freedom
the Werra serfs drew up a constitution for themselves
in 1540, which in 1576 was adopted by the Perrini
men, and in 1621 by the De Platea men. There were
thus three local- units in Zermatt, each governed by
its ' reeve ' or ' Meier,' with the aid of a deputy,
and four sworn men or 'jurati,' all these officials
being elected at the biennial meeting of each
' Gemeinde.' Herr Euden (pp. 12-4-26) prints the
constitution, from which it appears that each
' Gemeinde ' enjoyed both criminal and civil jurisdic
tion (there was a gaUows on the Egge above the
Spisfluh, though no execution is recorded), an appeal
lying to the ' castellanus ' of Visp, or to one or more of
the divisions (Dizains or Zenden) into which the
Upper Valais was divided. Such was the form of
government in Zermatt till it was overthrown by the
French, with great bloodshed, in 1798. s 2

26o The History of Zermatt
Even under the rule of the feudal lords, the men
of Zermatt enjoyed certain rights and pri-yileges as
regards the forests, common meadow land, and common
pasture land. Originally the tenants of each lord ar
ranged these matters as they chose ; but, as this was
found to be very inconvenient, a meeting of represen
tatives of each of the three sets was held in 1476. '^
The tenants were then distributed into four groups,
according to the situation of their houses, each group
bearing a fourth of the common expenses, but enjoying
a fourth of the profits of the forests and common lands,
while to each was assigned, to hold as its own property,
all the beasts of chase within the bounds of its terri
tory. These four groups were : —
(1) ^Hoffero,' or 'in den Hofi'en' (where the main
village now stands) — 39 households.
(2) ' Wynchilmattero ' (Winkelmatt) — 43 house
holds. (3) ' Aroleytero ' (Aroleit) — 46 households.
(4) Muttero (Zmutt) — 54 households.
A certain plot, called ' Grindero Gwaldsami ' (near
the Triftbach, which is even now popularly called
Baumbassier or Baumossier, a name perhaps de
rived from beau monsieur), was held in common by
the four groups.
This division soon occasioned quarrels, so that very
soon three of the groups joined their shares together,
except so far as beasts of chase were concerned.
Aroleit, however, never would do this, and endless
quarrels ensued. A compromise made in 1555 did
not work well, and in these matters great discontent

The History of Zermatt 261
I prevaUed till 1791, when the four groups or quarters
I were merged into a single ' Gemeinde ' or commune-^
i the forests, common lands, and beasts being held
in common by all four, the members of each being
I entitled to the customary or other rights which they
had hitherto enjoyed. The marmots were distributed
by lot, until, in 1850, they were placed under the pro
tection of the cantonal game laws. Pfarrer Euden
discusses at length the much disputed question of the
method according to which, before 1791, the enjoy
ment of the common lands was regulated. His con
clusion is, that as the sums required to purchase
freedom, both of men and lands, from the lords were
most probably assessed on each man according to the
amount of his landed property, and not in equal pro
portion for each household, the right of user of the
forests and common lands was most probably annexed
to certain lands, rather than vested in every man of
the valley — i.e. that the right of enjoyment was ' real '
and not 'personal.' Thus, we do not find in a 1579
regulation of the guild which settled matters as to
the ' Alhnend ' or common lands (just mentioned by
Pfarrer Euden ^'') that the richer men had to pay any
thing to the poorer for the extra use of the pastures,
as they must certainly have done had the right of user
been vested in every member of the ' Gemeinde.' It
is to be noted further that a piece of land to which
such rights are annexed is even now sold at a premium,
and that the ' Alps ' (or mountain pastures) have
never passed into the possession of non-Zermatters.
The dates 1621, 1791, and 1798 thus mark the

262 The History of Zermatt
main epochs in the secular and constitutional history
of Zermatt. It has many analogies with early
English institutions, and one might go so far as
to conjecture that in the one case, as in the other,
the existence of common lands (' common of the
manor ' or ' the lord's waste ') points to the former
existence of a free village community, which later fell
into the power of feudal lords, retaining a mere shadow
of its former rights untU it recovered them by purchase.
¦In short, the transition from a free mark community
to a manor may have taken place at Zermatt in days
of which no written record exists, as it did in England
and many parts of Germany. Thus, the common
pasturage on the Eiffelberg would precisely answer to
the common pasture of Port Meadow near Oxford,
which has never been lost to its origmal owners, the
' freemen ' or ' patricians ' of Oxford.
Among miscellaneous items relating to Zermatt,
we may note that in 1406 a certain sum was paid to
a man to maintain the road down the valley, whUe
other sums were paid in 1583 and 1612 as compensa
tion to owners for the construction of a new path, as
the old one was covered with water. Some of the
entries in the Obit book, or Eegister of Burials, are
very interesting. In 1574 we find the name of Johann
Branschen, captain in the Swiss Papal Guard (formed
about 1505), and there are several entries (1585,
1616, 1788, 1746, 1762) of Zermatters who died as
soldiers in the French army, one (1775) in the Austrian
army in Italy, and possibly one in Spain (1769).-
Between 1578 and 1580, three Zermatt women.

The History of Zerm.att 263
Anna Biner, Anna Zersalzgeben, and Anna Tschugger,
died at Grindelwald far away in Bern, whUe Anna
Schiilbetter died in Hasliland- bits of evidence which
may prop up the theory of the early passage of the
Monchjoch, but more probably belong to the history
of the Gemmi or of the Lotschen Pass. A number of
deaths are recorded as due to faUs from rocks or
avalanches (one on the Stockje while hunting in 1741),
while here and there — six men in 1669, Johann Lauber
¦ in 1816, and a man in 1848 — it is expressly stated that
the death took place on the Theodule glacier. The
body of an unknown man was found there in 1795.
He was, no doubt, a foreigner, possibly a soldier. The
case may bring to our minds the extraordinary dis
covery made in 1872 by Mr. Gardiner's party on the
Verra glacier.^'
The ecclesiastical history of Zermatt does not pre
sent any very remarkable features. It was, of course,
included in the diocese of Sion. The date at which
the existing viUage church was buUt is not known.^^
It is dedicated to St. Maurice and the other martyrs
of the Theban Legion, and is said to have been founded
by Philippa de Platea of Visp, a member of a famUy
which had, as we have seen, extensive rights over the ,
vUlage. It must be of considerable antiquity, for the
old sacristy buUt on to the choir is dated 1587 ;
while of the four bells, one is undated, and the others
bear the following dates and dedications : 1697 (St.
Agatha -presented by the guUd of that name), 1640
(Our Lady and St. Theodule), and 1702 (the Holy
Trinity). The high altar received a gift of 200 crowns

264 The History of Zermatt
from Bishop John Joseph Blatter of Sion (1784-52),
a member of a Visp family which had been originally
settled in Zermatt ; as a mark of gratitude his arms
were placed on the altar. The ' Caspar Haus ' on the
' place ' was the original priest's house, and was built
in 1471, according to an existing inscription on it ; the
actual vicarage dates from 1576. Another house in
the village bears the date 1679. Originally Zermatt
was ecclesiastically dependent on St. Niklaus, but later
it became a distinct parish (though the hamlet of
Aroleit is said to have bought this privUege, after the
rest of the settlement). The Pfarrer of Zermatt still
pays his brother of St. Niklaus the sum of 3 francs
85 cents a year — doubtless a relic of the latter's former
supremacy ; but the St. Niklaus priest is bound to come
up to Zermatt whenever sent for by a sick person.
There are some traces of an old foundation for a chap
lain or assistant curate, and various altars in the church
enjoyed separate revenues, the gifts of the faithful.
The existing endowment for a chaplain dates from 1716,
though it has been considerably increased since. The
mother church was endowed, by a lady of the De Platea
family (perhaps Philippa herself), with a glebe close
by, and with certain corn rents, payable by the men of
Stalden, which were commuted for a lump sum, part
between 1702 and 1736, part m 1854. To complete
the ecclesiastical history of Zermatt it may be added
that the first priest named occurs in 1280, and that the
list is complete and continuous from 1536 onwards ;
while in the local archives there are still preserved two
indulgences for forty days each to the Zermatters on

The History of Zermatt 265
the performance of certain duties, both granted by
Bishops of Sion in 1483 and 1501 : the latter making
mention also of another of one hundred days from each
of sixteen cardinals ! By a dispensation of 1473,
granted by the Bishop of Sion in virtue of a special
papal decree, the Zermatters were permitted to eat
butter and other products of milk in Lent and on other
fast-days. The parish registers begin late ; baptisms
1721, marriages and burials 1767, though notices of
earlier events have been put in by successive Pfarrers.

Such is an outline of the strictly local history of
Zermatt. For many years, even centuries, the men of
Zermatt lived their own life apart from the world, the
mode of life, no doubt, being similar to that described
in the autobiography of Thomas Platter (1499-1582) as
prevaUing lower down the St. Niklaus valley in the
early sixteenth century.^' I must now narrate the
history of the vUlage so far as relates to the visits of
strangers. Foreigners must undoubtedly have come
over the St. Theodule from time to time ; but their
names have not been handed down to us. The pass "
is mentioned as early as 1543 by Sebastian Munster in
his ' Cosmographia ' (p. 333 of the Basel edition of
1550). He says, ' A Vespa iter extenditur per mon-
tem Saser et ab alio latere per montem Matter, ad op-
pida quffidam Mediolanensis ditionis, item ad -vallem
Kremerthal [Val Tournanche, which is called Kramer-
thai in German to this day] quse paret comiti a
Zaland,' and marks it on his map (ibid. p. 881) by the

266 The History of Zermatt
double name of ' Augstalberg ' [Aosta Mountain] and
' Mons Sylvius ' (now known to us in the form Mont
Cervin). Later writers, such as Stumpf (1546), Tschudi
(died 1572), Simler (1574), Scheuchzer (1716), and
Gruner (1760), also speak of it as well as of the
village of Matt.^* The pass must have been frequented
by 1688, since in that year directions were given
by the governor of the valley of Aosta (on behalf of
his master the Duke of Savoy) that the frontier towards
the Valais should be strictly guarded so as to prevent
the Vaudois, who in 1687 had been expelled from their
home in the Piedmontese vaUeys, commonly known
as ' the Waldensian vaUeys,' and had taken refuge in
Switzerland, from re-crossing the Alps. Minute in
structions are given as to the redoubts to be thrown
up, and the garrison, seventy in number, to be main
tained on the pass itself and a little way below.^*
These fortifications were actually erected, for they
are mentioned in the very full and interesting description
of the pass from Praborna over the St. Theodule to
Jomein and Chatillon, given in 1691-94 by an Aostan
official, Philibert Amadous Arnod.^^
Thus we see that, about 1688-91, the Aostans
aimed rather at keeping the Zermatt men and their
friends out of the valley of Aosta than at themselves
crossing over to Zermatt, though, no doubt, this
was done largely for mercantile purposes.
In the next stage we find that strangers are becom
ing curious about Zermatt, which had kept to itself
so long that a legend of a ' lost valley ' had grown up
among the Germans who inhabited the upper portions

The History of Zermatt 267
of the Gressoney and Alagna valleys. Hence, in Au
gust 1778, seven young men, led by Nicholas Vincent,
set out from Gressoney for the unknown glacier world,
and finaUy gained a point on the watershed - named
by them the 'Entdeckungsfels,' or Eock of Discovery
— whence they looked down on the lost valley, which
seemed to them covered with ice. So far the original
account.^^ De Saussure, when at Gressoney in 1789, conversed
with one of these men, and ascertained that the valley
named Hohlauben was reported to have been filled up
with ice, and that in 1780 the party had made another
attempt at exploration, but, despite crampons, rocks,
and ladders, had faUed to descend into the. unknown
vaUey, in which cows and herdsmen were seen. De
Saussure suggests that it may be the valley of Pedriolo,
near Macugnaga.^'* Finally Von Welden ^' tells us that
the legend was based on some old papers at Saas, that
a second attempt took place in 1779, and that on a third
three hunters only reached the ' Entdeckungsfels,' and
con-vinced themselves thatthe lost valley was none other
than the Matterthal. His authority for these state
ments was Vincent himself, one of the three. Mr.
Conway, who one hundred years later followed in their
track to the ' Eock of Discovery,' has told us what a
splendid view must have met the eyes of these three
adventurers.^" One might suggest (though Schott, in
his ' Die Deutschen Colonien in Piemont,' 1842, does
not seem to have noticed the legend) that the founda
tion of the story is to be sought in some dim recollec
tion handed down by the first German immigrants

268 The History of Zermatt
during their wanderings from Saas over the lower
passes to the heads of the Macugnaga, Alagna, and
Gressoney valleys. However that may be, certain it is
that there was a legend of a lost valley, and that some
men searching for it discovered that it was a known
and inhabited one.

Up to this time strangers had looked over into the
Zermatt valley, whether from fear or from curiosity.
At last one man dared to visit it. This was the
celebrated De Saussure of Geneva, who in the last
century really began the systematic exploration of the
Alps, and did much to dispel the mysterious veU which
seemed to hide the dwellers among the hills from their
brethren in the plains. Having started from Geneva,
he crossed the Simplon, made the tour of Monte
Eosa by way of Macugnaga and the other valleys to the
south of the chain, and reached BreU on August 12,
1789. After being detained a day there by rain, he
and his caravan achieved, on August 14, the first re
corded passage of the St. Theodule by travellers (find
ing the remains of the redoubt thrown up in 1688),
and that evening reached ' Zer Matt,' where his
experiences were not particularly agreeable. 'Nous
eumes une peine extreme a trouver une maison on Ton
voulut nous loger ; les cabaretiers etoient ou absents
ou de mauvaise volonte. Le cure qui loge quelquefois
les voyageurs nous fit repondre qxCil ne vouloit rien
nous vendre. Enfiii, notre brave guide Jean-Baptiste
Erin, chez qui nous avions loge aux chalets du Breuil

The History of Zerm.att 269
et que je recommande a ceux qui feront ce voyage,
forga un cabaretier a nous recevoir.'"
It is not clear whether De Saussure means to say
that the cure of Zermatt was already in the habit of
receiving traveUers, or whether he was alluding to the
common practice in remote valleys of applying for
hospitality to the cure or pastor — a practice which he
had often, no doubt, adopted, and which stUl prevails,
as I can testify, in some of the secluded valleys of the
Piedmontese Alps. In any case, we can scarcely be
surprised that, under the circumstances, the valley is
dismissed with a passing allusion to the Matterhorn,
and that next morning the party hurried down to more
hospitable regions. But the vaUey was now no longer
lost, and became known to the world of traveUers on
the pubhcation of De Saussure's account in 1796. It
was very possibly due to his unpleasant recollections
of Zermatt that when, in 1792, he spent three days
(August 11-14) on the crest of the St. Theodule pass
in order to study the Matterhorn, which had greatly
struck him, he went up and down on the Italian side,
not caring again to find himself in such uncomfortable
quarters as Zermatt then alone afforded. On August
18 he made the first ascent of the Klein Matterhorn,
which he called' Cime Brune du Breithorn,' to distin
guish it .from the higher snow peak to the east, towards
which he cast longing eyes, but which he was prevented
from climbing by lack of time and the huge crevasses
in the glacier between the two points.'^
A month after De Saussure's journey of 1792, the
herbahst Schleicher, who was one of the rivals of the

270 The History of Zermatt
Thomases in collecting plants for Swiss botanists,
crossed the St. Theodule from Zermatt to BreU, and
reaped a rich botanical ha.rvest on the way." The way
was now opened, and Englishmen soon found it out,
determined to be early in the field, if they could not
be the first. In the summer of 1800 the first English
party, after narrowly escaping being murdered at Nuz,
in the Val d'Aosta, made their way up the Val Tour
nanche, exciting the greatest astonishment amongst
the natives, and next day crossed the St. Theodule
to Zermatt. Their experiences at that village are thus
described -.^ 'On arriving at Zermatt, they were
received, after some difficulty, into the vUlage inn ; but
they were so pestered by the crowds of natives who came
to see them and ask questions, in what sounded like
High Dutch, that they sent to ask the hospitahty of
the cure. This was wUlingly accorded. From him
they heard the story of the cruelties of the French in
the valley. Enraged by the resistance of the inhabi
tants at St. Nicolas, they spared neither sex nor age
in the indiscriminate slaughter. At Zermatt no resist
ance was offered, but they demanded the enormous
sum of 500,000 francs [?]. The priest was bound, and
a poniard held to his throat till the sum was raised.'
They went down the valley next day, finding St. Nicolas
in ruins, and being told by the cure there that they
were the first Englishmen he had ever seen, so that they
were asked to point out their country on an old atlas.
It is only fair to remark that the cure at Zermatt
in 1800 was the same who had behaved so differently to
De Saussure eleven years before. His name was

The History of Zermatt 271
J. C. Berthod, and he held his office from 1782 tiU his
death in 1801, which was possibly due to his treatment
by the French, though the sum named as the ransom
of the vUlage must be absurdly exaggerated. It would
be curious to ascertain how these Englishmen had
heard of Zermatt and the St. Theodule, for they came
from Martigny over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta,
apparently for the express purpose of traversmg the
glaciers to Zermatt. Possibly they got the idea from
reading De Saussure's account. I am inclined, how
ever, to conjecture that they had heard of it from read
ing Scheuchzer's mention in his journey of 1705 (p. 308
of the coUected edition of 1728). Scheuchzer was a
Fellow of the Eoyal Society, to which his book is
dedicated, and had many correspondents and friends
in England. Further, he alone of the writers I have
consulted caUs the pass ' Eosa,' by a form of which
name (Mont Eose) the English party also calls it — this
name being, as is now admitted, but a form of the word
I 'roese, roise, reuse ' ( = glacier), which was applied to
1 all glaciers by the dwellers on the south, just as those
} on the north spoke of them (and of the St. Theodule,
! as is specially noted) as ' Der Gletscher.'
Zermatt was now getting known, and its fame— at
this time mainly in the eyes of botanists and geolo
gists — was spread more widely by the appearance of
articles on ' Monte Eosa ' and the ' Visperthaler ' in
Ebel's Swiss Guide-book, which was the one commonly
used by traveUers after its fir^t appearance in 1793.
The first edition does not seem to mention either the
valleys, the vUlage, or the peak. The second edition

272 The History of Zermatt
(1804-5) describes the peak very briefly under the
heading 'Eosa Monte/ and more at length under
' Anzaskathal ' — a description revised and extended
inthe third edition (1809-10). The second edition,
however, has an article, ' Visper-Thal,' which is repro
duced in the 1809 edition, and, as before, fills no fewer
than eight octavo pages. The information seems to be
based almost entirely on De Saussure's narrative, with
the addition of some botanical information from the
Thomases and other botanists. The St. Theodule and
the Matterhorn (both said to be entirely in Piedmont)
are described minutely, and there is a brief aUusion
to that extremely dangerous pass to Macugnaga, the
Weissgrat (Arete Blanche in the French edition), to
cross which, one must ascend several thousand feet
higher than the St. Theodule, and then descend for
four hours over steep glaciers. In the French 1818
edition of Ebel we read (iii. p. 624) the following notes
(referring to both valleys), which point to an increas
ing number of visitors, though their names are unknown
to me : ' Les botanistes qui visiteront cet Eldorado de
la Flore helvetique ne manqueront pas de s'adresser
a M. le Chatelain Kronig de Zermatt, qui connoit au
juste le lieu natal de toutes ces belles plantes. II
les desseche parfaitement et les vend aux amateurs a
des prix tres-moderes. MM. les cures de la vallee de
St.-Nicolas ont la bonte de bien recevoir les voyageurs
qui leur demandent I'hospitalite.'
In 1818 there appeared an English recension of
Ebel, called ' The Traveller's Guide through Switzer
land,' which, as far as I have been able to ascertain, is

The History of Zermatt 273
the first English guide-book to Switzerland. In the
alphabetical list of places, Zermatt and the Matter
horn are just mentioned under the heading ' Matter -
thai,' and Ebel's long article on the Visp valleys is
cut down to a short paragraph, of which this is the
concluding sentence : ' Strangers, of course, are seldom
seen amongst them, and that part of the country is
almost entirely unknown.' In another part of the
work, however (p. 384), there occurs the following
remarkable passage, the precise source of which I
have been entirely unable to trace, but which is impor
tant as being apparently the first notice of Zermatt
published in English (for the notes of the 1800 party
were not printed tUl 1876) :
' A place which may perhaps interest the tourist
is The Valley of Praborgne, which communicates
with that of St. Nicholas. It is bounded by enormous
glaciers, which descend to the bottom of the valley.
The vUlage of Praborgne is very lofty ; it overlooks
these glaciers from an immense height. Its climate
is nearly as warm as that of Italy ; even plants of the
warm countries are gathered at a considerable height
above the glaciers, which is a rare occurrence in
Switzerland ; they are often gathered below the
glaciers, but seldom above.' The third edition (1835)
of the same book remains unchanged in each and
every one of these particulars. I have not been able
to find any account of a visit to Zermatt or its imme
diate neighbourhood by a traveUer between the English
party of 1800 and another of 1821. This was Sir
John Herschel, who in 1821 made the first recorded

274 The History of Zermatt
ascent of the Breithorn by way of the St. Theodule,'*
though this may mean that he did not cross the pass,
merely reaching it from Breil before beginning the
ascent proper.
Next in order pf date comes a visit in 1822 by
Herr Hirzel-Escher of Ziirich. He made the tour of
Monte Eosa from Visp, by way of Macugnaga and the
southern valleys — a most adventurous feat in those
days — and proposed to crown his achievements by
reaching Zermatt over the St. Theodule. His land
lady at Gressoney, on hearing of his plan, ' clasped
her hands over her head, commended him and his
friend to the care of the Almighty, and promised to
pray that they might meet with no misfortune, for, she
added, she knew the terrible dangers of the pass, as
she had once crossed it with her husband.''^ Despite
this warning, and despite an attempt from the Cimes
Blanches, frustrated by bad weather, a labyrinth of
crevasses, and various disputes with their two Ayas
guides, the party, led by a good and honest guide from
Breil, one Jean Baptiste Menabraye, succeeded on
July 27 in accomplishing their bold scheme, leaving
Breil at 5 a.m., and reaching Zermatt early enough in
the afternoon to induce them to stop for a good dinner
only at the cure's, and to go on to sleep at St. Niklaus.
Among many interesting items in the very elaborate
and lengthy narrative (pp. 65-100) of this passage which
the author gives us, I may note that De Saussure's
three days' stay on the pass was stiU remembered by
the herdsmen at Breil; that the right track was
marked all the way with sticks fixed by their guide on

The History of Zermatt 275
his last traverse, five days before ; that on the way they
were told that there was in old days a shorter pass
nearer the Matterhorn, now blocked by fallen rocks
and the advancing glacier ; that on the top they found
the remains of the old entrenchments of 1688, and
that on the way down towards Zermatt they met Herr
Paul Vincent (fresh from an exploration of the N.E.
side of Monte Eosa, undertaken from Zermatt),'^ with
two Zermatt guides, so that the parties were able to
exchange guides, to the satisfaction of every one. It
seems as if it was almost as incumbent at this time on
those who survived the perUs of the St. Theodule, to
publish a narrative of their adventures, as it was in
the case of Mont Blanc itself.
Eichard's ' Guide du Voyageur en Suisse ' (pub
lished in 1824) is, in all that relates to Zermatt,
merely an abridged edition of Ebel, and gives no
fresh information. The interval between 1822 and
1835 must be filled up with mcidental notices of visits
made by stray traveUers.
On August 21, 1825, WUliam Brockedon (the author
of the beautifully illustrated work entitled 'Illus
trations of the Passes of the Alps,' 1828-29) crossed
the St. Theodule to Zermatt, but under very un
favourable circumstances. Eain had detained him
at Breil the whole of one day, and the day he came
over the snow was in very bad condition and the
weather not good, so that, having left his sleeping-
quarters about noon, he did not reach Zermatt till
9 P.M. He could not discover the remains of De
Saussure's hut, and found it very difficult to trace
T 2

276 The History of Zermatt
out the redoubt on the crest of the pass. At Zermatt
he put up at the cure's (Ignaz Gottsponer, cure 1812-
1839) 'hospitable and comfortable house,' and the
cure himself, seeing that his guest was excessively
fatigued, 'with a kindness which I long refused,
insisted on my occupying his own bed.' He found
in the parsonage three German students bent on
catching butterflies and collecting plants. Part of
his diary for the next day must be given : ' 22i.
— I awoke fevered and iU. At an early hour three
Englishmen called upon me to know the state of
the glaciers, as they intended to cross to the Val
d'Aosta ; they prepared to start immediately upon my
report. I asked if either was a medical man ; the
youngest of the party answered for the rest, No ; but,
as he never travelled without medicine, he had at my
service calomel, rhubarb, castor oU, magnesia, salts,
&c. ; it was impossible not to be amused, even whUst
obliged. I think no one but a member of the BuU
family would have thus borne about Apothecaries'
Hall with him. But I must not record an ungrateful
joke ; his calonael restored me to health.' After
spending a day quietly in the house, he walked down
to St. Nicolas. ' When I left the cure he would not
take more than five francs for all the trouble I had
occasioned. He was a kind and hospitable man, and
his handmaiden as good-tempered a creature as ever
kept a house in order ; to me, who suffered from
fatigue, they were all kindness and attention ' — and
yet he teUs a scandalous story about his hosts.'^
MM. Marc Viridet, Edmond Boissier, and G. F.

The History of Zermatt 277
Eeuter,' trois jeunes botanistes,' made a very pleasant
and successful -pisit to Zermatt towards the end of July,
1888.'9 In August 1834 Elie de Beaumont, the cele
brated geologist, and rather later in the same year five
Parisians, came to Zermatt, and their names were pre
served on loose sheets of paper. It is also stated that
in a previous year a M. Gui, of Paris, and his wife
spent several weeks at Zermatt. Strangers were re
ceived by the cure, by the assistant priest, and by the
vUlage doctor. Dr. Lauber. In the house of the latter
there stayed for some time in 1838 or 1834 a Bavarian
princess with her husband and her servants — the
recollection of the party lingering long in the memory
of the villagers.'"'

It wUl have been noticed that up to this date most
of the visitors to Zermatt simply arrived or left by the
St. Theodule, and that the few of whom we hear more
were botanists, geologists, or entomologists. The
tourists pure and simple had not yet come, and, though
many of the pastures round Zermatt were doubtless
visited by naturalists, we have not heard of regular
excursions or ' courses.' Between 1885 and 1847, how
ever, we can trace four clearly defined steps in the
development of Zermatt, which were taken in 1835,
1839, 1842, and 1847.
July 24, 1835, is an important date in the later
history of Zermatt, for on that day there arrived at
Zermatt, accompanied by his wife, the man who is the
most conspicuous figure among the early visitors to

278 The History of Zermatt
Zermatt, and who was the main cause, by his writings
and his activity, of making the village known to
travellers, not being naturalists and not yet moun
taineers—Christian Moritz Engelhardt, of Strasburg.
He had in his early days learnt to admire the mountains
when living in Switzerland in 1793, and again in 1800
when as a soldier he took part in Macdonald's terrible
winter campaign in the Graubiinden. It was not,
however, till he was fifty-five years of age that, in
1880, he actually visited them for the first time. A
longer trip in 1832 only increased his ardour. His
botanical zeal was fired by the accounts of Oppermann,
of Strasburg, who spent many weeks exploring the
side valleys of the Valais ; and when his interest in
geology was kindled by Elie de Beaumont's theories he
could no longer resist the temptation, and determined
to visit the group of Monte Eosa, to which his atten
tion had long been directed, and as to which he
could find very little information in pubhshed books.
But though scientific reasons were the original causes
of his first journey, it was rather the dehght in the
magnificent scenery in these valleys, and the desire to
map and investigate the glaciers which surround them
on all sides, that led him to repeat his visits to Saas
and Zermatt m many subsequent years. Here we
have only to deal with his sojourns in the latter vUlage,
which were no fewer than ten in number — 1835, 1836,
1837, 1838, 1889, 1841, 1848, 1849, 1851, and 1855.
These were described in detail in two elaborate books,
illustrated with sketches, panoramas, and maps, which,
perhaps, are even now the most complete monographs

The History of Zermatt 279
on the immediate neighbourhood of Zermatt, their
main subject, and are well worth reading by those
who delight in Zermatt as Engelhardt did." When
we remember that he was aheady an old man
when he began these explorations we shall not be as
tonished to find that he did not attempt any difficult
excm-sions or try any of the higher peaks — exploits
which were unheard of in those early days of Zermatt.
His greatest feat was an expedition (July 28, 1886) to
the summit ofthe St. Theodule, in which he was accom
panied by his wife and her sister — probably the first
ladies who had ever been up there. They spent over
two hours on the uppermost rocks, Engelhardt making
an elaborate drawing of the panorama, which ia not to
be treated with scorn by those who have come after
him. Among the other excursions which he made more
or less frequently between 1885 and 1889 were the
Hohbalm (or Heubalm) at the foot of the Unter Gabel
horn ; the Eiffelberg — his favourite haunt being on the
rocks east of the Eiffelhorn (for he does not seem to
have reached the Gornergrat, which he calls Eothgrat,
tiU 1849) ; the lakes on the right bank of the Findelen
glacier ; the Schwarzsee, and the round back by the
Zmutt glacier ; and the ' crater of the Gabelhorn,'
or the rocky cirque formed by the Gabelhorn and
Eothhorn, which was viewed apparently from the
ridge at the N.E. foot of the Unter Gabelhorn. His
keen enthusiasm for high mountain scenery and his
delight in the sight of peaks, passes, and glaciers appear
on every page of his books; whUethe minute topographi
cal details he gives, and his scrupulous care in finding

28o The History of Zermatt
out the precise name of every peak and glacier, give
them a value which can scarcely be overestimated by
mountaineers who care for Alpine history.
On each of his earlier sojourns at Zermatt, Engel
hardt, with his companions, put up at the house of
the hospitable cure, Herr Ignaz Gottsponer. On his
very first visit he pronounces it to be ' right good
headquarters for exploring the neighbourhood ' ; he is
charmed with the decent rooms, the good food, and the
balcony running round the house, whUe the care and
thoughtfulness of the cure and his housekeeper Marie
are praised in the highest terms. The cure was often
of great use in arranging terms with the guides, and a
friendship sprang up between the two men which
lasted till the death of the priest and does great honour
to both. In 1836, Herr Brunner, a Bernese botanist, who
spent some time at Zermatt, and published an account
of his journey in the ' Botanische Zeitung,' presented
the cure with a finely bound ' Travellers' Book,' the
first page of which was taken up by some verses in
honour of his hospitality. This was shown to Engel
hardt in 1887 with great pride, and is a sign — like the
arrival of a Frenchman in 1887 over the St. Theodule,
coming direct from Algiers, as well as of quite a swarm
of naturalists and artists— that Zermatt was becoming
more and more frequented.

One would fain dwell longer on these early days,
when Zermatt was still far from the madding crowd.

The History of Zermatt 281
and when more peace, though not more comfort, could
be obtained there than later on. But the step in
advance brought about by Engelhardt's first visit in
1835 was foUowed by another four years later.
This change is best indicated by a comparison of the
first two editions of Murray's ' Handbook for Switzer
land.' In the 1838 (first) edition Zermatt is mentioned
briefly in connection with the passage of the St. Theo
dule, the Matterhorn is pointed out as a thing to be
specially admired ; there are a few words on the terrible
pass of the Arete Blanche to Macugnaga, and a very
vague allusion to another crossing the glacier to Saas.
The paragraphs that particularly concern us here run
as follows : 'At Zermatt, two hours further, the house
of the cure offers its hospitahties, and a worthier host
than Jean Francois de la Costa *^ cannot be found.
In the little plain of Zermatt, situate amidst the
grandest scenery of nature, surrounded by forests of
pines and vast glaciers, is placed, with its neat
church, this elevated and retired village, with more
cleanness and comfort among its inhabitants than is
to be found in many places of greater pretensions :
this has, perhaps, been effected by the influx of
strangers, for many mineralogists, botanists, and ento
mologists come here to collect rich harvests in the
neighbourhood. The intercourse with the Val d'Aosta
by the Mont Cervin is not frequent enough to produce
such effect upon the manners and character of the in
habitants—the example of the worthy cure may, how
ever, have done much. Here manj' days may be spent
in excursions to the glaciers and points of view with

282 The History of Zermatt
which the neighbourhood abounds, and to which many
of the inhabitants are excellent guides ' (pp. 247-48).
In the 1842 (second) edition (p. 266) the following
sentence is inserted after the mention of the so-called
cure : ' A good little Inn, however, comfortable in itself,
and kept by civil people, is now established here,' the
rest of the paragraph being unaltered, its substance,
indeed, reappearing in many later editions. Three
pages further on, ' A.T.M.' (the late Mr. Malkm) be
gins his valuable notes on the excursions to be made
from Zermatt, and on the tour of Monte Eosa, by
remarking, ' There is now a decent little mountain
inn at Zermatt.'
This change in the matter of the accommodation
for travellers— the second great step in the development
of Zermatt as a mountaineering centre — took place in
1889. In that year Dr. Lauber,*' the village doctor,
who had, as we have seen, received travellers in earlier
years, became the sole innkeeper of Zermatt — at least,
so far as regards strangers. For the Valais Govern
ment forbade priests to keep inns in viUages where
there was already one ; and also Herr Gottsponer, in
consequence of advancing years, exchanged his office of
parish priest for that of chaplain on the special founda
tion attached to the parish church."
Dr. Lauber thus obtained the monopoly of receiv
ing strangers, and retained it tUl 1852, not finally
retiring tiU 1854. There was, however, a notable
exception to this monopoly. When Engelhardt was
at Leuk in 1889, on his way to Zermatt, he heard of
the news of the change, which was confirmed on his

The History of Zermatt 283
arrival at Visp. He could not bear the thought of
this revolution, remembering the happy days he had
spent under the parsonage roof.''^ Hence, on entering
Zermatt, he at once directed his steps towards the well-
known house, and begged to be received as a friend.
This request could not be denied by the old priest,
who, of course, was stUl at liberty to receive his friends
in his own house, and Engelhardt's party stayed there
during their visits in 1889 and 1841, Dr. Lauber not
raising any opposition.*^ It was not tiU after Herr
Gottsponer's death, in 1847, that Engelhardt was
forced to avail himself of the inn, where he was very
well received, and in which he soon learnt to make
himself at home.
In consequence of his new position. Dr. Lauber
had his house enlarged and refitted, and it is by a
fortunate accident that we possess a full account of the
new inn in its very first year. This is given by
M. Desor, on occasion of his visit in August 1839.*^
' On nous avait dit que nous pourrions loger chez le
docteur, le cure ayant reyu la defense d'heberger.
Nous avions hate de faire la connaissance de ce medecin
hospitaher. Un medecin doit savoir ce qui convient a
des voyageurs fatigues : nous serous done parfaitement
chez lui. " Ou demeure M. le docteur ? ' ' fut la premiere
question que nous adressames a la premiere paysanne
que nous rencontrames. "C'est la tout pres." En effet,
voila une enseigne. " Est-ce ici la maison de M. le
docteur''"' demanda St[uder] a un individu qui vint
au-devant de nous. " Oui, Messieurs, et c'est moi qui
suis le docteur." "Comment, c'est vous ? Au reste.

284 The History of Zermatt
pourvu que vous nous logiez bien." Sa femme etait
aussi accourue a notre rencontre. Elle avait I'air bien
plus degagee que son docte epoux. Elle nous promit
de faire de son mieux pour nous satisfaire, et en meme
temps elle nous fit voir plusieurs chambres propre
ment tenues, dans lesquelles nous primes nos quartiers.
Dans le livre des etrangers, qui en etait a sa premiere
annee, nous reconnumes, parmi les cinq ou six
voyageurs qui nous avaient precedes, plusieurs per
sonnes de notre connaissance : c'etaient des botanistes
et des zoologistes suisses. Decidement les touristes
n'ontdonc pas encore infeste cette vallee. . . . L'heure
du depart avait sonne, et ce fut avec un vif regret que
nous nous retournames faire nos preparatifs pour
le retour. II n'y a pas jusqu'a la petite auberge
du docteur que nous ne regrettames. Elle n'est sans
doute pas somptueusement meublee; mais eUe n'en
est que plus en harmonie avec le caractere du lieu.
Apres tout, nous, n'avons pas eu a nous plaindre de
nos botes. Us ont fait, pour nous etre agreables, tout
ce qui etait en leur pouvoir ; Madame, surtout, s'est
montree fort prevenante. C'est une Valaisanne tres-
intelligente, qui parle un assez bon allemand. Elle
salt faire une minestra exceUente ; sa maison est tenue
proprement ; ses lits sont supportables. Je vous le
demande, peut-on raisonnablement exiger davantage
a Zermatt ? Le lendemain matin nous quittames ces
braves gens, apres leur avoir repete que nous etions
tres-satisfaits de leur reception. Nous leur promimes
meme de leur envoyer d'autres Messieurs, ce qui
parut les satisfaire infiniment. Je ne saurais en effet

The History of Zermatt 285
assez engager mes coUegues, les naturalistes, a visiter
ce heu, persuade que tous y trouveront une ample
recolte. Quant aux touristes, fasse le ciel que la
vallee de Saint-Nicolas en soit encore longtemps pre-
servee ! ' Such is the description given of the first
little inn at Zermatt in the very first year of its
existence ; it was a little mountain hostelry, offering
decent quarters and simple fare — such as there are
stUl several (Ferpecle, for instance) in difl'erent parts
of the Alps, though the increase in the number of
¦visitors brings about gradually their transformation
into Grand Hotels. In the case of Zermatt this can
be dh-ectly traced to the visit of Desor and his
friends in 1889. An account of their journey was
published in the course of the following winter. The
effect of this narrative is thus described by M. Topffer,
when comparing the relative advantages of a visit to
Chamonix and to the Bernese Oberland (' Voyages en
Zigzag ' — ^journey of 1840, p. 231 of the 1850 edition) :
' Deja on parle de la vallee de Zermatt, qui s'ouvre a
Viege, dans le Haut-Valais, et des glaciers du Mont-
Cer^vin, comme offrant des beautes et des horreurs
d'un caractere plus grand ou plus interessant que ce
que I'on va voir a Chamounix et dans I'Oberland :
c'est du moins ce que nous ont affirme des personnes
qui les ont visites cette annee, et c'est ce que I'on
peut inferer de la relation d'une tournee scientifique
entreprise par M. Agassiz et quelques savants, qui a
ete inseree dernierement dans la " Bibliotheque Uni
verselle " de Geneve.' M. Desor was accompanied
by several friends, two of whom were famous men.

286 The History of Zermatt
M. Agassiz and M. Bernard Studer. Their first ex
cursion from Zermatt was up to the Eiffelberg. M.
Agassiz, in the first plate of his ' Etudes sur les
Glaciers ' (first series, 1840), gives a panorama from
this point.*' Agassiz was very anxious to convert
Studer on the disputed question of the causes of
striated and polished faces of rock, and it was in the
course of this excursion that Studer was convinced, by
finding these surfaces at a great height, and even
below the ice of the glacier, that water (as he had
hitherto supjDOsed) could not have been the agent,
and that ice alone (as Agassiz maintained) could have
produced them. ' Ce fut la le plus beau resultat du
jour,' remarks M. Desor. Next day they went up to
the Schwarzsee, and, for the first time on record
apparently, reached the Hornli, coming back by the
Zmutt glacier. They had intended to spend two days
only at Zermatt, but were so dehghted with what they
had seen that (except M. Studer, who had to leave from
lack of time) they spent two more, exploring the snout
of the Gorner glacier, and paying a visit to its upper
basin by the well-known Eothe Kumme track, now
followed annually by so many tourists. Many of the
plates in Agassiz's Atlas were made during these
latter excursions, which are thus very important from
a purely scientific point of view, as weU as from their
bearing on the future development of Zermatt.
Among the visitors to Zermatt in 1840 were Gottlieb
Studer *« and the late Mr. A. T. Malkm,*" who was so
taken with the place that he went there twice in the
same summer. We see the results in the numerous

The History of Zermatt 287
notes relatmg to the excursions from Zermatt with
which the second (1842) and foUowing editions of
' Murray ' were enriched, and which are signed by his
initials. I have already cited his verdict on the inn.
The appearance this year of Engelhardt's ' Natur
schilderungen, Sittenziige und wissenschaftliche
Bemerkungen aus den hochsten Schweizer-Alpen,
besonders in Siid-Wallis und Graubiinden ' (8vo.,
Paris, Strasburg, and Basel, pp. x., 381, with two
supplements covering sixteen pages), with its nine illus
trations, five relating to Zermatt, and a map, and filled
with copious information, was important, as it drew
the attention of travellers more and more towards the
place. There was a report that the Weissthor was
crossed this year for the first time in thirteen years
(1842 'Murray,' p. 270). In 1841 the indefatigable
Engelhardt came once more to his favourite haunt to
coUect fresh information and to correct the results
published in his new book, and this was the last time
he slept under Herr Gottsponer's friendly roof.
Professor J. D. Forbes visited the place in 1841 and
in 1842.*' He speaks of ' the clean house of the
village doctor, named Lauber, which serves as an
inn,' and tells us that in 1842, in consequence of a
trifling injury to his foot, ' I became a close prisoner,
for nearly a week, at the little inn at Zermatt, where I
was fortunate in finding much comfort and attention
from the worthy Madame Lauber.'
Hence we are not surprised to find the following
note appended to M. Desor's account already quoted
when he published it in 1844 (' Excursions, &c.' p. 114

288 The History of Zermatt
note) : ' Depuis lors la petite maison du docteur de
Zermatt a fait place a un grand et bel hotel, ou I'on
est fort bien loge, dit-on. La cuisine s'est singuliere-
ment perfectionnee ; on y dine confortablement et le
mouton n'est plus le seul et unique mets. Mais
comme balance de ces agrements, on a — des touristes ! ''

In 1841, Professor Forbes crossed the St. Theo
dule, and made an attempt on the Eiffelhorn, which
failed a few feet below the top by reason of a cleft and
a precipice ; but his second visit in 1842 marks the
third upward step Zermatt had taken since 1835.
Up to this time the only glacier expeditions which
had been made round Zermatt were the St. Theodule,
the Klein Matterhorn, and the Breithorn.*^ But there
were many floating stories and traditions of passes
formerly made over the glaciers in many directions.*'
The immediate neighbourhood of Zermatt being now
pretty well surveyed, travellers went on to test the
truth of these stories by attempting the traditional
passes. Forbes led the way by his passage of the
Col d'Herens on August 20. 1842, from the BricoUa
huts to Zermatt ** — a really great feat for the time ;
and in the following years other passes were crossed
(as we shall see), while, as the passes became known,
the peaks were gradually taken in hand. At Zermatt
he climbed the Eiffelhorn, which, after having long
passed for inaccessible, had been scaled earlier in the
same summer (1842) by some English students from
Fellenberg's famous school at Hofwyl, near Bern

The History of Zermatt 289
('Travels,' 814). One indication of the gradual open-
ingup of the valley is the concise, but very clear and fairly
full paragraph on Zermatt (based on Engelhardt), in
the last (eighth) edition of Ebel, issued in 1848 ; as the
Preface states that it is a ' revised ' article, it must have
appeared in some previous edition since the fifth
(1823), in which the vUlage had not yet attained to the
dignity of a separate heading — possibly that of 1830,
but probably that of 1841, the first after the publi
cation of Engelhardt's 1840 book. Another sign is
that in 1843 Mr. Malkin repeated Forbes's feat of
crossing the Col d'Herens, and even went from Zer
matt to the summit of one or other of the numerous
claimants to the name of Weissthor, probably the
Eofel Pass.** In 1844, however, we have a proof how
little Zermatt was known as yet, in the fact that the
first edition of Badeker, whUe describing the valley of
the Ehone in connection with the Simplon Pass, does
not even aUude to either of the Visp vaUeys ! This
is because it is little more than a translation of part i.
of Murray — and Murray, for some reason that I have
never gi'asped, has always, from his first edition to
his latest, placed these vaUeys in part ii. ' Alps of
Savoy and Piedmont.' (By 1854, Badeker knew more,
and has put in a special route for each of the Visp val
leys.) In the summer of 1845, Mr. Ball, whose name
is found among those of the early visitors to every
part of the Alps, spent some time at Zermatt for the
purpose of botanising and of studying the movements
of the neighbouring glaciers. On his departure he
alludes to ' the worthy Madame Lauber, whose name
XJ

290 The History of Zermatt
is fresh in the memory of all the early visitors to Zer
matt.' On August 18 in that year, Mr. BaU alone,
with an incompetent guide, made his famous passage
of the Schwarzthor to Ayas, thus opening up another
glacier pass to adventurous visitors to Zermatt.*^
The 1846 (third) edition of Murray does not, so far
as Zermatt is concerned, borrow much from Forbes,
despite the obligations expressed in the Preface ; but
Mr. Malkin's 1848 experiences on the Col d'Herens
and the Weissthor are incorporated,*^ and form a
valuable addition to the rather meagre account of the
neighbourhood of Zermatt which Murray had as yet
thought it worth while to insert. The account of the
inn reads thus : ' Inn, kept by Lauber, the -village
doctor, is praised by Forbes.'

The year 1847 is marked by several important
events affecting Zermatt. In this year the death oc
curred of Herr Gottsponer, the old cure, Engelhardt's
friend, and the host of so many -yisitors to Zermatt
from 1812 onwards. Next we have a third glacier pass
rediscovered, this time in a part of the chain which
had hitherto remained a sealed book to travellers.
This was the AUalin Pass, which was crossed from the
Mattmark Alp to Tasch, on August 18, by Professor
Ulrich, with Pfarrer Imseng, of Saas, Pfarrer H. Schoch,
and Herr Jakob Siegfried.*'
The most important event of this year was one
which marks a new departure, the fourth of the steps
in advance I have noted above. Three glacier passes

The History of Zermatt 291
had been opened up since 1842 ; now the first attempt
on a great peak — the highest of all — was made, for
traveUers were becoming more accustomed to the
mysterious ice world, and were not content with passes
only. This attempt was that made, on August 18, by
MM. Ordinaire and Puiseux (two scientific Professors
at Besan9on), with Johannes Brantschen, Joseph Taug
walder, Matthias Taugwalder, and Joseph Moser, on the
Hochste Spitze of Monte Eosa, in which the Silber
Sattel between that summit and the Nord End was
for the first time attained.*^
This was the opening of the campaign against the
great Zermatt peaks, which ended in 1865 with the
conquest of the Matterhorn.
Professor Ulrich was so much impressed by this
daring expedition that when, after having discovered
and crossed, together with Pfarrer Imseng, the Eied
Pass, and made the first ascent of the Ulrichshorn, on
August 10, 1848,"" he reached Zermatt, he made pre
parations at once to repeat it, and to push on farther,
if possible. His expedition took place on August 12,
1848 ; Ulrich himself did not get farther than the
SUber Sattel, but two of his guides, Johann Madutz,
of Glarus, and Matthias zum Taugwald, of Zermatt,
succeeded in reaching the more easterly of the two
teeth which compose the Hochste Spitze ; the traverse
to the higher or western one seemed too terrible to be
undertaken.*' A few days before (August 8) Matthias
zum Taugwald and Stephen Biner had crossed the New
Weissthor apparently for the first time."^
Late in August 1848 Engelhardt came back to

292 The History of Zermatt
Zermatt, after a seven years' absence, to resume his
work of making exact drawings of the chief features of
the surroundings, and to further revise his map — dis
playing uncommon energy and dUigence in making
excursions, when we consider that he was then seventy-
three years of age. • Among other walks, he visited for
the first time tbe snout of the Gorner glacier (for pre
viously he had always viewed the glacier from above),
drawn thither by the plate in Agassiz's Atlas. On his
way he met near the village an elderly English gentle
man, with two companions. Eemembering that he
had seen the card of Dr. Forbes at St. Niklaus on the
way up the valley, he ventured to address him by name,
but discovered that the gentleman in question was not
Prof. James Forbes of Edinburgh (who had noticed
Engelhardt's work not unfavourably, with the exception
of the map"'), but Dr. John Forbes. During Engel
hardt's absence from the village, his brother, who stayed
behind, met with some slight injuries by slipping on
the steps — then unguarded by any hand-rails — leading
up to the door of the inn. Dr. Forbes kindly offered
his services to the victim. ' This accident gave rise
to an amusing conversation in French between the
able and friendly physician and my -wife, since the
former does not speak French fluently, while the latter
understands hardly any English. Our landlord, Herr
Lauber, who is a surgeon, helped Dr. Forbes to the
best of his power.' Dr. Forbes, in his pleasant book ' A
Physician's Holiday ' (pp. 250-51), thus describes his
meeting with Engelhardt when on the way down from
the Eiffelberg (August 30) : ' When about half-way to

The History of Zermatt 293
the vUlage, I met, advancing up the valley on foot, the
venerable Moritz Engelhardt, the celebrated Alpine
traveller, and author of the minutest account that
exists of the topography of this district, as well as of
the best views we possess of some of its grandest
scenery. Although now at an advanced age, he had
once more come into Switzerland to refresh his memory
of the grand scenes he had visited so often, and which
he loved so much. He was now proceeding to inspect
the glacier which we had just left. It is to his pencU
the reader is chiefly indebted for the views of the grand
chain of Monte Eosa and the Matterhorn illustrating
the present work : they are taken, with slight altera
tions, from his "Naturschilderungen," published at
BASEL m 1840.'
It must be borne in mind that this was the first
year in which Engelhardt lodged in Dr. Lauber's inn,
which he speaks of as good, and supplying such accom
modation as might reasonably be expected in such a
remote place, and as comfortable (i. 85; ii. 74). Dr.
John Forbes gives a more detailed account of the inn
in 1848 : ' The inn is also of wood, but it is new and
of considerable size, having a large eating-room and
half a dozen or more bed-rooms on two floors. The
landlord, Herr Lauber, is usually called a Doctor, but
he himself disclaims any higher title than that of a
bone-setter. He has never been medically educated.
His wife is a neat, handy, and kind person ; and al
though the cuisine is not of the first style, it is decidedly
better than might be expected in a situation so wild and
remote. Taking the whole of the accommodations into

294 The History of Zermatt
account, the traveller may consider himself fortunate
in being able to obtain them : and if he can command
the time he will find a few days' residence at Madame
Lauber's by no means disagreeable ' (see his book,
p. 233). Dr. Forbes himself stayed but a single day
at Zermatt, which he spent in an excursion to the
Eiffelberg, pushing on to the Gornergrat, though his
guides wished to stop on the ridge at the foot of the
Eiffelhorn, which was the usual goal of visitors to the
Eiffelberg. This is, as far as I know, the first time a
traveller had gained this now famous point. Among
the other visitors to Zermatt this year was M.
Edouard CoUombs, who in 1847 had published an im
portant work on the traces of ancient glaciers to be
found in the Vosges (Engelhardt, ii. p. 81) ; and in the
Travellers' Book Engelhardt (ii. p. 95) found an account
by some Englishmen of the ascent of the Stockhorn
beyond the Hohthaligrat ; he mentions also several
persons in the village who sold mmeralogical specimens.
Such is the picture offered by Zermatt the year after
the Sonderbund war, and the very year when almost
the whole of continental Europe was distracted by
revolutionary movements. Finally, it is in this year
that a name now inseparably connected with Zermatt
appears for the first time inthe chronicles ofthe village.
In 1848, Joseph Seller of Blitzingen (between Miinster
and Viesch) was appointed assistant priest and chaplain
on the foundation of 1716, though he held the post
only tor a year, becoming, I believe, a member of the
Company of Jesus, and dying in the college of that
order at Brieg."*

The History of Zermatt 295
In 1849 more high glacier expeditions were made
around Zermatt than had perhaps ever been made
before. A young Englishman, Mr. MarshaU HaU,
crossed, in August, to Macugnaga by a pass which
seems to be the New Weissthor, and which had not, as
far as is recorded, been previously crossed by a traveller.
During his absence, the ' amiable Frau Lauber ' had
made up a party to enable his mother to ride up to
the Eiffelberg on the landlady's 'own nice little horse,
with the luxury of a new side-saddle.' "*
On August 29, the cure of Zermatt, Joseph Euden
(cure 1845-65) — to whom we owe a very handy
little book, containing much local information as to
Zermatt history, which has frequently been of great
service to me — determined to test the truth of the
tradition, famUiar to him as a Zermatt man by birth,
that there existed a pass over into the Einfischthal.
Hence he made an expedition to the summit of what
is now known as the Triftjoch, being stopped from
descending on the other side by steep rock walls, but
finding fragments of a ladder, which went to confirm
the old tradition."" The most important glacier ex
peditions achieved this year (1849) were those made
by a party headed by Professor Ulrich, the most inde
fatigable early explorer of the glacier regions -of this
valley. On August 9, accompanied by Herr Gottlieb
Studer and Herr Gottlieb Lauterburg, and with three
guides (one being the faithful Madutz, and another
Franz Andermatten) , he made the first recorded pas
sage of what was later known as the Adler Pass, taking
sixteen hours from Mattmark to Zermatt. The guides

296 The History of Zermatt
went back over it the next day."' On August 15, the
same party, with Madutz and two Zermatt guides,
.crossed from the Zmutt huts to Haud^res (above
Evolena) over the Col d'Herens, finding fewer diffi
culties than Professor Forbes, and accomplishing the
distance in about eleven hours' walking."' On August
12, the same three travellers, with Madutz, Johannes
zum Taugwald, and Joseph Kronig, made an attempt
on the Nord End of Monte Eosa, but did not arrive
higher than a short distance above the Silber Sattel,
being stopped by the sudden thinning out of the
already narrow snow-crest, and by a violent wind."^
In 1849, too, at the end of July, Engelhardt paid his
eighth visit to Zermatt, his great feat being the ascent of
the Eothgrat (the present Gornergrat) , for in his many
previous excursions he does not seem to have pushed on
farther than the Eothe Kumme (ii. p. 10). Lauber's inn
was very full indeed this year. Mrs. MarshaU Hall com
plains that her party could get no rooms in the house,
and had to put up with two dismal dirty rooms in an
uninhabited house not far off,'" but as room had been
reserved for Engelhardt's party they fared weU. At
the tcOale d'hote there were many guests, specially
English travellers, and Engelhardt was unable to re
tain his incognito, for every one there had heard of the
patriarch of Z ermatt. He modestly aUuded to the praise
awarded him by Professor James Forbes in his book,
and to his meeting with Dr. John Forbes at Zermatt
the previous summer. This led one of the English
guests to tell him that the latter also had written a
book, and had spoken of him in a very complimentary

The History of Zermatt 297
manner. The work was produced, and the old man
read with delight the passage from it which I have
quoted above, and gazed with great pleasure on the
reduced copies of his illustrations with which Dr.
Forbes had adorned his book." Again and again this
year Engelhardt remarks on the fast increasing number
of visitors to Zermatt, and praises the inn, while hint
ing that it was uncomfortably overcrowded (ii. p. 117).
It was in this year, too, that Mr. Euskin visited Zer
matt, when his imagination was at once enchained by
the Matterhorn. In the glowing words which form the
opening of the chapter in ' Stones of Venice ' on the
' Wall VeU ' (original 1851 edition, vol. i. p. 57), he has
set before us his first impressions of the great peak. A
more elaborate portrait is drawn in the famous chapters
on mountains in the fourth volume of 'Modern Painters '
(originally issued in 1866).
The year 1850 was comparatively uneventful in
the annals of Zermatt. On August 7 another passage
of the New Weissthor was made — the party con
sisting of the Eev. Edmund Docker and Mr. J. E.
BlackweU ; but the names of the guides are not men
tioned. It is stated that they followed the route now
usuaUy taken. '^
A description of the inn in this year is given by
the authoress of ' A Lady's Tour round Monte Eosa '
(published 1859, p. 80). ' We were fortunate enough
to secure a bedroom in the little wooden inn belonging
to the village doctor, Herr Lauber, which was then the
only house for the reception of travellers in Zermatt.
It was tolerably comfortable, but unfortunately the

298 The History of Zermatt
floors looked as if they had never been washed since
the house was built. The salle-a-manger was poorly
furnished with rough deal tables and benches. We
were supplied, however, with a very fan supper of
several dishes, but all of one material, obtained no
doubt from the same poor sheep. We had soup made
of mutton, and then mutton boiled, mutton roasted,
and mutton broiled. We found, on our arrival, two
Englishmen and a Frenchman sitting in a state of
despondency in the salle-a-manger, which they had
been unable to quit all day ; and they looked most
significantly at one another and smUed when they saw
us arrive in such bad weather.'
This rather repelling account is no doubt partly
due to the bad weather in which the authoress had
been making her way up the valley all day; for
her later excursions to the ridge at the foot of the
Eiffelhorn (' then considered the finest point of view
for seeing the Monte Eosa chain, but it has smce been
superseded by the Gorner Grat,' adds the writer,
pp. 33-84, referring to her experiences in 1856) and
to the Schwarzsee, gave her more favourable impres
sions of the place and its surroundings.
This year Engelhardt did not go to Zermatt,
making a hasty visit to Saas only. While speaking
of the new house built there by Zurbriicken, he men
tions that a new inn was also being built at Zermatt.
Its proprietor was Herr Joseph Anton Clemens, of Visp,
a member of the Valais Legislature and of the Federal
Assembly, and brother of the local postmaster (ii.
125). The era of competition is approaching, and

The History of Zermatt 299
Herr Lauber's monopoly, which he does not seem to
have abused, is drawing to an end.
In 1851, another old pass was reopened by travel
lers. This was the Old Weissthor, which was tra
versed, on August 27, by Herr Adolf Schlagintweit
with one of the Taugwalders." On August 22, that
gentleman, accompanied by his brother Hermann,
with the guides Peter Taugwalder, Peter Inderbinner,
and Hans Joseph zum Taugwald, made an attempt
on Monte Eosa by way of the SUber Sattel. With
the exception of the last-named guide, the whole party,
after encountering great difficulties, succeeded (in nearly
two hours from the Sattel) in attaining the more
easterly of the two points which make up the Hochste
Spitze — the one climbed by Ulrich's guides in 1848,
and which was now for the first time ascended by a
traveUer. According to the measurements made, the
western point was higher by a height estimated at
rather over twenty-three feet (slightly over seven
metres), but two teeth on the ridge between, and the
steepness of the rocks, prevented them from making
the attempt to reach it.'* These expeditions, and the
observations made in the course of their stay at Zer
matt (August 19-27, 1851), are described in their
work entitled ' Neue Untersuchungen fiber die physi
kalische Geographie und Geologie der Alpen ' (Leipzig,
1854), which contains many views and maps. These
sections form a useful supplement to Engelhardt's
work. The book contains, too, much information, with
maps and views, as to the eastern and southern sides
of Monte Eosa.'*

300 The History of Zermatt
In the fourth (1851) edition of Murray-, the entry
as to the inn stands as in 1846, with the addition,
signed by one W. J. F., ' and is particularly clean
and good.' There is also a detailed account of the
passage of the Weissthor, on July 16, in 1849 or
1850, by ' J. C. A.,' a long extract from Euskin about
the Matterhorn, and some advice as to the St. Theo
dule, based on some miserable experiences in 1845 —
these seem to be the chief improvements on the 1846
edition, so far as Zermatt is concerned. But Murray
is far excelled in point of clearness and fulness as re
gards Zermatt, by the extremely good account of the
vUlage and its surroundings which appeared in 1851
in G. von Escher's ' Neuestes Handbuch fiir Eeisende
in der Schweiz ' (an unsuccessful attempt to continue
the traditions of Ebel), in which the information con
tained in Professor Ulrich's 1850 pamphlet and other
works is admirably set forth.
The most important event of 1851 at Zermatt is
the last visit of Engelhardt, of which he was able to
publish any description.'" It was but short, and was
devoted to a careful visit (apparently his first) to the
upper part of the Gorner Glacier, for it would seem
that as he advanced in years he undertook more
difficult expeditions — the explanation doubtless being
that men were getting more accustomed to glaciers
and less afraid of them than formerly. He records
with great satisfaction his meeting in the inn with the
Schlagintweits, just back from their Monte Eosa ex
pedition — this, of course, specially interested him, and
their previous works had made their names familiar

The History of Zermatt 301
to him. He makes special mention of passing, on
entering the viUage, the rising walls of the new inn
of Herr Clemens (ii. p. 230). He also teUs us how with
what kindly feelings the inhabitants of the district
regarded him, for they believed that his 1840 book
had done much to attract strangers to their wild val
leys. As he was going up the valley in 1851, on his
way to Zermatt, he relates that a boy offered him his
hand and addressed him by name. The boy's em
ployer, an Englishman, coming down from the village,
inquired who that might be, to which Engelhardt's
own guide, a young man named Alexander Albrecht,
of Visp (who, though a guide, had gladly agreed to
come with him as porter, as the fact of having been
with Engelhardt would do much to recommend any
companion of his to future travellers), replied that the
people called Engelhardt the Father of the Valley, be
cause, since he published his book, so many foreign
visitors had found their way to the place.'"
A hut was being built this year on the crest of the
St. Theodule. It had been begun in 1851, for Herr
Hermann Schlagintweit mentions, when speaking
of his stay of two and a half days (August 27-29,
1851) on the Col, that M. Meynet had just begun to
build a house, but that the tent put up as a temporary
shelter was placed at his disposal by M. Meynet, to
whom he was indebted for many courtesies.
A propos of this hut, Engelhardt tells a curious
tale. It seems that, to meet the wants of the increas
ing throng of tourists, one Minette of Val Tournanche
set up a tent on the pass in summer, and supplied re-

302 The History of Zermatt
freshments to the passers-by. An Englishman in the
diplomatic service (Engelhardt's thoughts run at once
to Eobert Peel, who was English minister to the Con
federation at the time of the Sonderbund War in 1847)
was so delighted with this unexpected welcome that
he spent the night there, paying twenty francs for his
night's lodging, and offered to advance 6,000 francs
for the construction of a house on the pass — an offer
which was accepted. This story Engelhardt declares
he heard in Zermatt (ii. p. 248). In the 1854 Badeker
(p. 257) we read of the humble hut which a Val Tour
nanche man had put up in 1852 on the pass, and
wherein he sold wine, coffee, bread and cheese ; and it
is explained that he had been encouraged to take the
place by the gift of 1,000 francs from an Englishman.
How far the latter part of this tale is true I cannot .
say, but it is an undoubted fact that Mr. (now Justice)
Wills, on September 14, 1852, found the man and his
tent on the pass : ' On a spot slightly sheltered by some
rocks, which jut up from the surface of the snow, was
pitched a wretched tent, about ten or twelve feet long,
and six or seven high, inhabited by an old man and
his wife, who, during the summer months, dwelt at the
crest of the Col, and in this fraU and dreary abode
braved the terrors of the tempest and the snow storm.
. . . The man pointed out to us, with great pride, a
rude structure, built of loose stones, which it was the
labour of his days to rear, and which, when finished,
was to contain four bedrooms. It was already half-way
up to the first floor. This chalet was to be dignified
with the title of an hotel, and was to bear the appro-

The History of Zermatt 303
priate title of the " Bouquetin." ' Mr. WUls gives
many intevestmg particulars with regard to this
strange man, who appears to have struck him very
much. He asked for a subscription towards the build
ing of his house on the glacier, and thought more of
making known the glories of a sunrise on the St.
Theodule than of the mere pecuniary gain. ' " Mes
sieurs," he said, " je travaille pour I'humanite." ' He
intended to go to Paris and London to collect funds
for his enterprise, but was never heard of again after
leaving Val Tournanche, having probably been mur
dered. ' The harmless and adventurous enthusiast
has disappeared, and the cabin, in the midst of the
glacier, remains as he left it, and will remain so untU
the violence of the storm has prostrated its waUs, or
some successor shall be found to inherit the old man's
enthusiasm and love of nature.' "
Mr. Wills's name appears for the first time this
year in connection with Zermatt. It makes us realise
that tentative mountaineering is over, and that the
real conquest of the Alps is about to begin. On Sept.
11, 1852, with his friends Mr. E. C. Heath, F., H.,
and Pfarrer Imseng, he crossed the AUalin Pass from
Saas to Zermatt, and on August 80, 1858, with Mr.
Heath's brother and Pfarrer Imseng, made that pas
sage of the Adler Pass which is so famous in Alpine
history." It is true that neither pass was made for the
first time ; but the latter now received a name, and both
were introduced to the notice of English mountaineers,
who, save Prof. Forbes and Mr. Ball, do not seem to
have previously paid much attention to Zermatt. The

304 The History of Zermatt
account, too, of the minor excursions round Zermatt
is very full and interesting (pp. 188-201).
On August 25, 1852, Professor Ulrich and Herr
G. Studer crossed the New Weissthor, their passage
being long considered the first by travellers, doubt
less because it was minutely described by the former
gentleman.'^ The opening of the new hotel — the Hotel du Mont
Cervin — was, however, the great event of the season of
1852 in Zermatt. Not merely was there now more room
for visitors, but the competition was certain to improve
the accommodation. Prof. Ulrich and Herr Studer
would not abandon their old friend Herr Lauber : Mr.
Wills, however, who was a stranger in Zermatt, went
to the new inn, which he calls ' clean and hospitable '
(p. 152). It is said that the Mont Cervin originaUy
had only fourteen beds,'" and we have seen that in 1848
Lauber's inn had only half-a-dozen bedrooms or so.
The 1852 (fifth) edition of Murray shows distinct
signs of improvement. The excursions are classified
better, an entirely new one, the Unter Eothhorn, is
added, while the walks to the summits of the Weissthor
and St. Theodule and back, and to the top of the Cima
di Jazzi (name not given till the 1856 edition) are re
commended. ' F.' advises good walkers to go completely
round the top of the Eiffelberg. The exit of the stream
from the Gorner Glacier and the beautiful serpentine
gorge through which it flows are specially noticed.
The brief note, 'Anew Inn was built in 1852,' sums
up the great practical improvement which 1852
had brought about in Zermatt. In this year, too.

The History of Zermati 305
appeared Engelhardt's second book, ' Das Monte-Eosa-
und Matterhorn- (Mont Cervin) -Gebirg, aus der Inseite
seines Erhebungsbogen gen Nord ; seine Auslaufer
und Umgrenzung, besonders der Saasgrat mit dem
Misehabeldom fiber dem Gletseherkrater von Fee ' (Svo.
Paris and Strasburg, pp. xxviii. 247 (with a supple
ment of 6 pages, two Ulustrations, and a map) . It con
tains his final conclusions on all the topographical
points which he had been so carefuUy investigating
for the past seventeen years and, taken with his former
work, is a veritable storehouse of information as to the
days when Zermatt was on the high road to becoming
a mountaineering centre. I am much surprised that
his works have not attracted far more attention than
they have hitherto done, the two Forbes being appa
rently the only English writers who have in any way
acknowledged his very great services in the matter of
the topography of Zermatt.
1858 seems to have been a very quiet year at Zer
matt. Besides Mr. WUls's passage of the Adler, noted
above, the only record of any interest I have found is
the notice of the passage of the Col d'Herens from Zer
matt alone by a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Macpherson."
The mountains were clearly beginning to lose their
terrors : but this quiet was but the calm before the rush
of travellers set in which has never ceased since.

The year 1854 marks the beginning of the rush.
Two new inns, the publication of two new editions of
guide-books much improved as regards Zermatt, and
the commencement of the English assault on Monte

3o6 The History of Zermatt
Eosa, are all events which show that we are nearing an
important epoch. The hut on the Saint Theodule
seems this year to have become a reality (Murray,
1856, p. 808 ; 1858, p. 302) the proprietor, one Mey
net, being thus described by Mr. Hinchhff, on occasion
of his visit next year : ' We found the hut in the
possession of a very fine old man, who must be either
the ghost, or merely the successor, of him who, Mr.
Wills has reason to think, perished by some unfair
means. Our friend was very busy about his house ; and
its situation, at more than eleven thousand feet high,
did not seem at all to cool his satisfaction about it :
he said he intended to have another room ready for the
next season, and he promised to make the roof water
proof at the same time.' '^ In 1854, too. Dr. Lauber,
being unable to stand the competition of the new
hotel, sold his inn to M. Alexandre SeUer, of Bhtzin-
gen, who had become acquainted with Zermatt through
his near relative (I think his brother), mentioned before
as holding, from 1848 to 1849, the office of assistant
priest at Zermatt. M. Seller enclosed the old wooden
house within a stone casing, and greatly improved it
in many ways. Even now, there may be discerned
in the Monte Eosa Hotel, remains of the old house
— the first inn at Zermatt." This year, too, there
was opened an inn built on the Eiffelberg by three
Zermatt men — the cure Euden, Joseph Kronig,
and Matthias Welschen, and leased to M. Seller."
This was the Eiffelhaus, the erection of which gave a
great impetus to attacks on the peaks at the head
of the Gorner glacier, though it was at first of no

The History of Zermatt 307
great size, for the 1854 Badeker (p. 256) merely says
that the cure had caused a little house to be built in
which refreshments could be had.
Considerable improvements appear in the 1854
(sixth) and 1856 (seventh) editions of Murray. Here
are the statements as regards the inns : ' H. de Monte
Eosa (Dr. Lauber's),'-' very comfortable, original
wooden house [1856 adds ' enlarged 1856 ' ]. H. du
Mont Cervin (Clemenz), of stone, buUt 1852; both
good and clean, well provided with maps and guide
books, the works of Studer, &c., and with collections
of plants, insects, and minerals' (pp. 294, 802). ' An
inn has been built on the back of the Eiffelberg to
accommodate travellers' (1854). ' A good inn has
now been built upon a part of the Eiffelberg, at an
elevation of more than 7,000 feet (1856).' The ex
tract from Euskin is omitted. The section ' Excursions
from Zermatt ' has been much improved, particularly
the Eiffelberg bit, it being noted in 1854 that the
Gorner Grat having a finer view than the saddle be
tween it and the Eiffelhorn (the saddle itself is oddly
called the Eiffelberg) ' is consequently the point to
which tourists are now commonly taken ' — this, I be
lieve, being the first occasion on which the Gorner Grat,
as a distinct point of view, is recommended to ordinary
travellers. It is mentioned in 1852, in the course of
F.'s proposal to go completely round the top of the
Eiffelberg, 'surmounting the Eothe Kumme and
Gorner Grat, which are higher parts of the same
mountain.' The initials (even in some cases Mr.
Malkm's) affixed to various paragraphs had dis-
X 2

3o8 The History of Zermatt
appeared in 1854, though in some cases the paragraphs
themselves still appear between marks of quotation,
being as yet not quite absorbed into the text of the
book. The 1854 book first gives a folding panorama
from the Gorner Grat (in which the Hochste Spitze —
strictly speaking the Nord End — is named both Monte
Eosa and Gornerhorn, the latter name being dropped
only in the 1861 edition), to which that of 1856 adds a
map of the Monte Eosa district, and that very odd cut
of the ' summit of Monte Eosa','" which lingers on as
late as the 1867 edition. We are told, too, in 1854,
that the works of Brockedon and the two Forbes's have
drawn the attention of English travellers to Zermatt —
a statement true in itself, but quite ignoring Engel
hardt's work, which helped the Forbes's so much, while
Brockedon only devoted two pages to the vUlage in
describing his passing visit. In 1856 we are told that
this valley ' is now much frequented by travellers :
560 visited one hotel in 1854.' The 1854 Badeker
devotes two pages (pp. 256-7) to the village and the
St. Theodule, agreeing in most points with Murray,
but giving its information even then in a more com
pressed form.
Up to 1854, English mountaineers were quite left
behind by their foreign rivals, so far at least as con
cerns the Monte Eosa group, for, with the exceptions
of the Breithorn (1821), the Col d'Herens (1842 and
1848), and the New Weissthor (1849 and 1850), they
had been content to follow in the tracks of other
travellers. The year 1854 saw, however, the begin
nings of the change, in consequence of which, as is well

The History of Zermatt 309
known, all the other great peaks and passes around
Zermatt have been conquered by Englishmen.
On September 1, Mr. Eobert Fowler, with Arnold
Kehrli, of Muhlestalden, in the Gadmenthal, made the
first passage by a traveller of the dreaded Triftjoch
from Zermatt to the Einfischthal, taking fourteen
and a quarter hours, including halts, from Zermatt
to Ayer. The pass was repeated by Mr. Chapman in
1855." In July 1854, Mr. D. S. Bird made an attempt
on Monte Eosa, and reached a point within 100 feet
of the summit — presumably the eastern peak. On
September 1, 1854, Messrs. G. and C. Smyth went
up to the SUber Sattel, and thence made the third
ascent of the eastern and lower tooth of the Hochste
Spitze of Monte Eosa — a peak which was again reached
on September 11 by Mr. E. S. Kennedy, after an
attempt on September 8, when his guide only reached
the summit, he himself remaining sixty feet below.
Now, of course, this ascent was nothing new, but
what was new was the resolve of Messrs. Smyth to
abandon the old route from the Silber Sattel, and to
try a new one from the west, by which the western
and highest tooth might be reached, without the
necessity of forcing a way along the ridge between the
two teeth, which appeared so terrible to all the early
explorers. This is the route now commonly followed,
and it seems so obvious that one is surprised that no
one should have tried it before. By this way the first
ascent of the highest pinnacle of Monte Eosa was
successfully achieved on July 81, 1855, by a party con
sisting of Messrs. G. and C. Smyth, Hudson, Birkbeck,

310 The History of Zermatt
and Stevenson, with Ulrich Lauener, of Lauterbrunnen,
andthree Zermatt guides." A fortnight later (August 18
or 14) the ascent was repeated by Herren Weilenmann
and Bucher, together with two English and one
German gentlemen, with five guides ; and the proud
peak, which had so long defied the efforts of the best
climbers ofthe day, was thoroughly conquered, and has
gradually sunk ever since in the eyes of those who
like a good climb, though not in the opinion of those
who have no objection to a fine view.
The conquest of Monte Eosa is an epoch in the
history of Zermatt, and it marks the opening of a
new period, for within the next ten years all the
other great peaks round Zermatt were ascended.'^ By
a curious coincidence it was in this very year that
Engelhardt, an old man of eighty, paid his last visit to
Zermatt, three years before his death.'" The inhabi
tants called him ' the father of the valley,' and rightly,
since for twenty years he had been busUy engaged
in exploring and describing the Zermatt valley. He
may be said to have laid there the foundation on which
the Alpine Club has built, and it is one of those striking
accidents which occur in real life nearly as often as
in novels, that the same year witnessed the last visit
of Engelhardt to Zermatt and the feat of climbing
which led to the minute exploration of the higher
regions of the district for which he had worked so
steadily and so well.
By 1855 Zermatt had become a mountaineering
centre, and is not unfitly called (by the 1854 Murray)
the ' young Chamouni.' I have tried to trace out the

The History of Zermatt 311
steps by which it gradually attained that position. In
that history four men stand out above their fellows, and
we who have profited by their labours and tried to carry
out their aims should not forget their services or fail
to render them the honour due unto their name.
Pfarrer Gottsponer and Dr. Lauber on one side.
Christian Moritz Engelhardt and Melchior Ulrich on
the other, are the real ' makers ' of Zermatt as a,
perhaps the, mountaineering centre in Switzerland.

3X2

NOTES

1 I make this Hmitation in order to cover such cases as
those of the Thomases of Bex, father and son, who between
1763 and 1762 visited Zermatt to coUect plants for the celebrated
botanist and poet, A. von HaUer, by whom they had been trained
for this object. Von HaUer pubUshed notices of their researches
in several essays, incorporating aU the information suppUed by
them in the second edition of his chief botanical work, pubhshed
in 1768 in three folio volumes under the title of ' Historia Stir-
pium indigenarum Helvetiae ' (see B. Studer's ' Geschiehte der
physischen Geographie der Schweiz bis 1815,' pp. 251, 394-95,
646). 2 For the general history of Zermatt, 1 have drawn most of
my information from two sources. One is a smaU octavo volume
of 184 pages, published in 1869 at Ingenbohl (Kanton Sch-vs^yz)
by Joseph Kuden, of Zermatt, Pfarrer of his native -viUage from
1845 to 1865. It is entitled ' FamUien-Statistik der lobhchen
Pfarrei von Zermatt,' and contains not only many genealogical
details as to the Zermatt famUies, extinct or stUl flourishing, but
many local facts taken from parish archives, &c. The other is
a more general work. It is the great coUection of documents,
relating to the Valais which the Abb^ Gremaud of Fribourg
has published in five volumes (xxix. to xxxiii., issued between 1878
and 1884), of the ' Memoires et Documents publics par la Soci^t^
d'Histoire de la Suisse Eomande.' This invaluable store of
materials for Valais history bears the general title ' Documents
relatifs k I'histoire du VaUais,' but has imluckUy not been con
tinued at present beyond the j-ear 1375 (when the great famUy

Notes on the History of Zermatt 313
of La Tour-ChatiUon was finaUy expeUed from the valley), not
from want of matter, which is very abundant, but apparently
from sheer -want of space, as the coUection was originally in
tended to take in aU Valais documents before 1500.
3 It is interesting to caU to mind that the first mention of
Chamonix occurs in a deed of about 1091, by which the vaUey
was given to the monastery of St. Michel de la Cluse (near Turin)
by Ajinon, Coiuit of the Genevois (see vol i. pp. 1-2 of the coUec
tion of documents pubhshed by M. Andre Perrin of Chambery in
1879-83 imder the title of ' Le Prieure de Chamonix '). We first
hear of Grindel-vsrald in a document of doubtful genuineness
dated July 21, 1146, in which the Emperor Conrad II. confirms
the monastery of Interlaken in its rights and possessions, and
bestows on it further Grindelwald and Iseltwald. We hear of
it again in a genuine document of 1180-81, in which Bishop
Eoger of Lausanne confirms to the same monastery the posses
sion of the church at Grindelwald, originally built of wood and
consecrated by Bishop Amadous (bishop 1145-59), now re
buUt of stone by Bishop Eoger and re-consecrated (see ' Pontes
Eerum Bernensium,' vol. i. pp. 422, 466).
4 Gremaud, vol. xxx. pp. 330, 579.
5 Ibid. vol. XXX. pp. 426, 428-29.
6 Ibid. vol. xxxi. p. 291.
7 Ibid. vol. xxxi. p. 470. M. Gremaud considers that John
was a Zermatt man as weU as his father.
8 Ibid. vol. xxxii. p. 81.
9 Ibid. vol. xxxU. p. 547.
10 Ibid. vol. xxxiii. p. 163.
11 Ibid. vol. xxxiii. pp. 214, 219.
12 Ibid. vol. xxxiii. p. 262.
13 Ibid. vol. xxxiU. pp. 345-46.
14 See note 50 of the paper on ' Swiss Travel and Swiss
Guide-Books ' in this volume (pp. 178-9).
15 For the history of this famUy see the papers published in
vols. xxiv. xxvi. and xxxiv. of the ' Memoires et Documents
publics par la Societe d'Histoire de la Suisse Eomande,' especi
aUy vol. xxiv. p. 297 n.

314 Notes on the History of Zermatt
16 See, for the following facts, Pfarrer Euden's book, pp.
114 et seq.
17 ' Geschiehte von WaUis,' vol. ii. p. 86.
18 Ihid.
19 Pfarrer Euden's book, pp. 126 et seq.
20 The text of the constitution of this guild or ' Bauem-
zunft ' is dated 1571, and is to be published in extenso by Pro
fessor Andreas Heusler in his invaluable ' EechtsqueUen des
Cantons WalUs,' now appearing inthe 'Zeitschrift fiir Schwei
zerisches Eecht' (new series), vol. vii. et seq., especiaUy vol. ¦vu.
pp. 174, 242.
21 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. vi. pp. 99-100.
22 See Euden, pp. Ill et seq.
23 See Mr. Conway's interesting translation, ' Alpine Journal,'
vol. xu. pp. 380-90.
24 For the early history of this pass see note 50 of the
pre-vious article in this volume (pp. 178-80).
25 See the documents and comments on it in Signor L.
Vaccarone's ' Le Vie deUe Alpi OccidentaU negUantichi Tempi,'
pp. 73-75, 118-21.
26 Ibid. pp. 116-17, cf. p. 74-5 ; and ' BoUettmo del Club
Alpino ItaUano,' 1881, pp. 191-92.
27 See ' BoUettino del Club Alpino Italiano,' 1884, pp.
225-30. 28 ' Voyages dans les Alpes,' vol. iv. pp. 373-74.
29 ' Der Monte Eosa,' pp. 123-24 ; see ' Alpine Journal,' vol.
V. p. 137 ; also King's ' Italian VaUeys of the Pennine Alps,'
pp. 271, 437.
30 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xii. p. 75.
31 ' Voyages dans les Alpes,' vol. iv. p. 383.
32 Ibid. vol. iv. pp. 389, 408-38.
33 See De Saussure's ' Voyages,' vol. iv. pp. 442-43 ; B.
Studer, op. cit. 646.
34 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. vii. p. 436.
35 ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' second series, vol. ii. p. 260.
36 Hirzel-Escher's ' Wanderungen in weniger besuchte
Alpengegenden der Schweiz und ihren niichsten Umgebungen.'
Ziirich, 1829, p. 56.

Notes on the History of Zermatt 315
37 I can find no published account of this attempt.
38 ' Journals of Excursions in the Alps ' (1833), pp. 234-36.
39 ' Passage du Eothhorn ' (1835), pp. 4, 6. M. Viridet
published the same year the first part of a work entitled ' Viege,
Saint-Nicolas et Saas,' which contains much information about
Visp. I have not been able to find out whether the second part,
dealingwith thetwo Visp vaUeys, ever appeared — it is not included
in the copy preserved in the library of the Alpine Club. Engel
hardt himself, of whom we shaU presently hear so much, says
in his 1840 book (p. 4) that he possessed the ' Passage du Eoth
horn,' but had not yet been able to procure the other book on
the Visp vaUeys, from which it would seem that the second part
never came out at aU.
40 Engelhardt's ' Naturschilderungen,' pp. 182-83.
41 ' NaturschUderungen,' published 1840, quoted in this
article as I. ; aud ' Das Monte-Eosa- und Matterhorn-Gebirg,'
issued iu 1852, quoted as II.
42 This allusion to the name of the supposed cure — which
was actuaUy Peter de la Coste — fixes the date of the visit from
which the information in this paragraph was derived. De la
Coste was never cur^ of Zermatt at all, but only chaplain on a
special foundation of 1716 — an office he held from 1823 to 1831
(see Pfarrer Euden's book aheady quoted, p. 106). This would
seem to point to Brockedon as the author of the description,
though in his Journals he does not mention the name of his host.
Gottsponer was cure from 1812 to 1839.
43 See Pfarrer Euden's book, p. 54. The Lauber family has
existed in Zermatt for the last two hundred years or so.
Joseph Lauber was born in 1787 and married, in 1826, Maria
Zurtannen of ' Pumath,' probably the Pommat valley or Val
Formazza, at the head of which are the Falls of the Tosa, the
inn close to them being now kept by a Zertanna.
44 See Engelhardt, vol. i. p. 183 ; vol. ii. p. 35.
45 Engelhardt gives other reasons for disliking the change,
arguing that whUe the conveniences of having an inn are incon
testable, yet in such a place as Zermatt, whither no frequented
path leads and there is only one other way out, by a difficult and

3i6 Notes on the History of Zermatt
rarely traversed pass, naturalists and artists wiU be the only
visitors ; and as their means are but moderate and their require
ments simple, the curb's house offers great advantages. Dr.
Lauber, he adds, would therefore do well not to insist on his
monopoly but to lower his prices.
46 It wiU, however, be admitted that it must have been
trying for Dr. Lauber to find his house not patronised by the
oldest habitue of Zermatt, and aU the more so as it stood on
the site of the present Monte Eosa hotel (it is said that a part
of the old house stiU exists buUt into the newer one), whUe
the parsonage house (which dates from 1576) stands not very
far away. But, doubtless. Dr. Lauber was an acquaintance of
Engelhardt, and made aUowance for the natural feeUngs of the
old man for the cure who had for several years received him
into his house.
47 ' Excursions et Sejours dans les Glaciers,' pp. 65-6, 113-14.
48 Mr. BaU (' Western Alps,' p. 297) remarks : ' The earlier
visitors to Zermatt were dfreoted to the Breithorn as the highest
part of the range. Long afterwards the Lyskamm was supposed
to be the true summit ; and it is so figured in the plates to the
" Etudes sur les Glaciers," by M. Agassiz.' I am not aware
what Mr. BaU's authority was for the former of these statements
— possibly the fact that (save the Klein Matterhorn and the
minor points of Monte Eosa) the Breithorn was the first of the
great Zermatt peaks to be ascended, though not freq-aently tUl
1861 (see ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, second series, vol. i. p.
358 ; vol. U. p. 260). With aU deference, I venture to think
¦that in the second statement he assigns a wrong reason for the
undoubted fact that M. Agassiz, in his 1840 plate, does call the
true Lyskamm by the name of ' Cime du Mont Eose.' The
true reason for this is, I beheve, the fact that the Zermatt people
commonly gave this name to the true Lyskamm — possibly be
cause it seemed to them the highest point of the range. A
careful observer, however, like Engelhardt, while calling the
true Monte Eosa the Gornerhorn, and saying that the true
Lyskamm was caUed Mont Eose by the local men, states again
and again in both his books, in the clearest terms, that the

Notes on the History of Zermatt 317
Gornerhorn was the highest peak of the entire chain, and this
name is commonly used by him in describing the early attempts
on the Hochste Spitze, which every one then acknowledged to
be the culminating-point of the range (see vol. i. p. 200, and
supplement, p. xxi. ; and vol. H. pp. 41, 93, 153-56). Thus the
reason for, as we think, misapplying the name Monte Eosa,
which 'Mr. BaU would seem to consider was the generaUy
accepted one, was in reaHty only the local usage of the Zermatt
men; though the fact of the misapplication is certain. It is
probable that, imtU the pubhcation of the Dufour map, the names
of the higher peaks of this range were not at aU weU fixed ; we
find the name Gornerhorn appHed to the Nord End (by mistake
for the Hochste Spitze) in the panorama from the Gornergrat
given by the 1854, 1856, and 1858 editions of Murray ; the name
vanishing only in the entirely remodeUed edition of 1861. It is
certainly amusing to find that while the true Lyskamm was
caUed SUberbast (a name appropriate enough for the peak ; see
' Alpine Journal,' vol. xui. p. 555), theZwUlinge — towhichAgassiz,
(on his plate i.) and Engelhardt (on his 1835 plate) give the name
Lyskamm — were only christened by their present names by Canon
Berchtold of Sion during his explorations and measurements
(this name appears in the Schlagintweits' 1854 book, both in
text, on the map, and in the iUustrations), another proposed
name having been ' Weisse Brtider.' See Engelhardt, vol. ii.
pp. 42, 142, 233.
49 See his work ' Ueber Eis und Schnee,' vol. u. pp. 18, 197.
60 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. p. 44 ; vol. xiv. pp. 235-86.
61 ' Travels m the Alps of Savoy,' pp. 308-9, 319-20.
52 As I am writing of Zermatt only and not of Monte Eosa
in particular, I pass over aU the attempts and ascents of different
peaks of Monte Eosa from the Italian side, from the first trial
by Morozzo before 1788 (De Saussure, vol. iv. p. 320 ; ' Alpine
Journal,' vol. ix. p. 496) to the ascent of the Signal Kuppe by
Grdfetti in 1843.
53 See Mr. Ball's statements, the results of his iijquiries in
1845, as to the passes from Zermatt to the neighbouring glens
(' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' first series, pp. 152-53, 158-60).

3i8 Notes on the History of Zermatt
54 ' Travels,' pp. 296-308, 352 ; also a letter in the ' Life of
Forbes,' by Principal Shairp, pp. 287-89. May I explain that
the pass just west of the point marked 3,595, crossed twice by
my party on Sept. 13-14, 1871, on the way to and from the
Dent Blanche (no hut existing then on the Stockje) lies exactly
over the rocks by which Forbes in 1842 tried to eft'ect his descent ?
(see ' Alpine Journal,' vol. v. p. 277 ; Conway's ' Zermatt Pocket
Book,' p. 101 ; and Forbes's ' Travels,' pp. 304^5). At the time
we made it, we knew nothing of Forbes's attempt, and made the
pass in order to avoid the considerable detour which a traverse
of the Col d'Herens would have entailed. I examined the spot
again in 1887 when crossing the Col d'Herens, and my recoUec
tions were entirely confirmed. We named the pass originaUy
PoUingerjoch in honour of the struggles of Alois PoUinger, then
a young porter, now one of the leading Valais guides ; but I am
glad to say that the more appropriate name, Wandfluhjoch, has
superseded the original appeUation.
55 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. x. pp. 44^5 ; 1846 Murray, pp.
190, 191. I am not -writing here the traditional history of the
Zermatt passes. For the Weissthor I may refer my readers to
Mr. Conway's paper, ' Alpine Journal,' vol. xi. pp. 193-202 ; and
to the two very careful and exhaustive papers bj- Dr. Schulz in
the ' Jahrbuch ' of the S.A.C., vol. xvii. pp. 243-55 ; vol. xviU. pp.
172-83. I cannot resist transcribing the conversation (August
1839) between M. Desor and his guide Joseph Brantschen of
Zermatt, when the former, having learnt that it was possible to
go to Macugnaga by the ' Porte Blanche,' proposed to the latter
that he should guide the party across : ' Mais il ne voulut pas
en entendre parler et me dit d'un ton decide : " C'est impossible.
Messieurs, on ne le traverse que pour aUer en pMerinage k
Macugnaga ; mais vous, Messieurs, vous ne faites pas de p^leri-
nage." " Le glacier serait-U par hasard moins dangereux
lorsqu'on le traverse pour aller en pWerinage ? " lui demandai-
je. "C'est certain," me r6pondit-U, avec un ah deprofonde con
viction; "je ne voudrais jamais en tenter le passage dans un
autre but"' (Desor, pp. 76-7). As to other narratives of the
crossing of this pass by pUgrims to the Sacro Monte of VaraUo

Notes on the History of Zermatt 319
see Schott, ' Die Deutschen Colonien in Piemont,' 1842, pp.
61-2 ; and Forbes, p. 346.
56 ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' 1st series, pp. 155-90.
57 It may be noted, as a curiosity, that he speaks of the
Hornli as the ' Kleinerhorn,' a name which appears in the 1846
ajid 1851 editions, but which is altered, in accordance with the
copy of the latter annotated by J. D. G. for Mr. Murray's use
(now in my possession through the courtesy of Mr. Murray), in
that of 1852.
58 Melchior Ulrich's' Die Seitenthaler des Wallis,'pp. 54-57 ;
and the fuUer account in the second series of Berg- und Gletscher-
fahrten,' pp. 98-100, 109-18.
59 Engelhardt, I., supplement xxi. : ' Die Seitenthaler,' p. 67 ;
' Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,' first series, pp. 252-54 (an account
given to Prof Ulrich by the traveUers the very evening of thefr
retum to Zermatt) ; ' Alpine Journal,' vol. viii. Appendix, p. 31.
M. Puiseux was more fortunate the year foUowing in another
mountain group, for in the summer of 1848 he made the first un
doubted ascent ofthe highest point ofthe Pelvoux in Dauphine.
60 'Die Seitenthaler,' pp. 57-60; 'Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,'
second series, pp. 118-30.
61 ' Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,' first series, pp. 254-65 ;
' Die Seitenthaler,' pp. 67-72 ; Engelhardt, vol. i., supplement
xxi. ; ' Alpine Journal,' vol. vUi. Appendix, pp. 31-2.
62 Studer's ' Ueber Eis und Schnee,' vol. ii. p. 196.
63 See Forbes's 'Travels,' p., 351 ; EngeUiardt, vol. U. p. 70.
64 Euden, p. 106.
65 'Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. pp. 174-75.
66 Studer, ' Ueber Eis und Schnee,' vol. ii. p. 211.
67 'Die Seitenthaler, 'pp. 60-66; 'Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,'
second series, pp. 130-43. It is curious to learn that they had
¦wished to cross to Tasch by the Fee glacier, but they were as
sured this was impossible, and the Alphubel Pass was not
effected tiU 1860 by Mr. LesHe Stephen.
68 ' Die Seitenthaler,' pp. 79-85.
69 See ' Berg und Gletscherfahrten,' first series, pp. 265-75 ;
'Die Seitenthaler,' pp. 72-79 ; Studer, ' Ueber Eis und Schnee,'

320 AZOTES ON THE Hi STORY OF Z ERMATT
vol. ii. pp. 22-26; Engelhardt, vol. U. p. 94; 'Alpine Journal,'
vol. viii. Appendix, p. 32.
70 ' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. p. 174.
71 Engelhardt, vol. ii. pp. 104-5.
72 ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' first series (2nd and foUow
ing editions), p. 160 n.
73 ' Neue Untersuchungen -iiber die physikalische Geographie
und Geologie der Alpen,' pp. 81-83; cf Jahrbuch des S.A.C.,
vol. xvii. pp. 250, 252. Ball, ' Western. Alps,' p. 318. 'Alpine
Journal,' vol. xi. p. 197.
74 ' Neue Untersuchungen,' pp. 74^79. See, too, ' Berg- und
Gletscherfahrten,' first series, pp. 276-79 ; Engelhardt, vol. u.
p. 243 ; ' Alpine Journal,' vol. -riii. Appendix, p. 32. As is weU
known, the ridge between the two teeth was not traversed untU
July 22, 1872, when Messrs. Pendlebury and Taylor crossed it
after having reached the Ost Spitze direct from Macugnaga.
('Alpine Journal,' vol. vi. p. 242.) The complete ascent of the
Hochste Spitze by way of the SUber Sattel and of the Ostspitze
was not achieved till Aug. 10, 1878, when two parties (Messrs.
Conway and Scriven, and the Eev. F. T. Wethered), working
independently, accomplished the feat ('Alpine Jom-nal,' vol. ix.
p. 108). Doubtless it has been done several times since then.
I have heard such varying accounts of the difficulty of the
climb from the Silber Sattel that I am induced to mention my
o-wn experiences on August 3, 1887. We found an enormous
mass of fresh snow on the rooks of the peak, so that we
floundered rather than climbed, hardly ever touching the rock
tiU we gained the crest close to the Grenz Spitze (one hour fifteen
minutes from the SUber Sattel). Thence we found it simply a
pleasant and not in the least difficult climb of forty minutes
along the ridge to the peak usually ascended from the Eiffel.
I would speak of the two points as the horns at the two ends of
a ridge rather than two teeth separated by a gap or chasm, for
I could not discover the latter. It seemed to me that the
difference in height between the two was almost imperceptible,
as several other climbers also have thought (' Alpine Journal,'
vol. vi. p. 244).
75 See also thefr paper (Memoires de I'Academie des

Notes on the History of Zermatt 321
Sciences de Turin, Serie ii. Tome xv. 1853) entitled ' Observa
tions sur la Hauteur du Mont-Eose et des points principaux de
ses environs ' (28 pages 4to., with two folding plates).
76 EngeUiardt, vol. U. p. 228.
77 ' Wanderings among the High Alps,' pp. 210-13.
78 Ibid. pp. 139-87.
79 ' Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,' second series, pp. 144-53 ;
' Ueber Eis und Schnee,' vol. ii. p. 197.
80 Peyer, ' Geschiehte des Eeisens in der Schweiz,' p. 210.
81 See WiUs's ' Wandermgs,' p. 201 ; 1856 Murray, p. 813.
82 ' Summer Months among the Alps,' p. 152. It is also
described in 1855 by Mr. King in his ' ItaUan Valleys of the
Pennine Alps,' pp. 208, 213.
83 For the sake of completeness, I add some dates from
Peyer (p. 210). M. SeUer. acqtured the Mont Cer-vin h6tel in
1867 ; took on lease from the commune the Hotel Zermatt and
the Eiffelhaus in 1880 ; and opened his own splendid establish
ment on the Eiffel Alp in 1884.
84 By 1854 the cur4 owned three-fourths of the house. The
Zermatt people were jealous at the success of the inn, and created
such disturbances that in 1862 the house was sold to the com
mune, which gave a fresh lease for fifteen years to M. Seiler,
after and on condition of paying the debt on the house (20,000
francs) and of enlarging it and improving it -within and without,
the Zermatt men deUvering the building materials on the spot.
In 1864, after these changes had been carried out, it contained
thfrty bedrooms. See the fuU detaUs given by the cur^ himself
in his book often referred to before, pp. 151-52. Mr. WUls
(' Eagle's Nest,' p. 294), writing in 1857, thus alludes to the Eiffel
inn : ' the Eiffelberg, on which a little hostehy has been
buUt — an accommodation due, if report speaks truly, to the
enterprise of three of the neighbouring cures ; who found in it
a most promising speculation.' As a matter of fact, Welschen,
after being cure in Tasch and other places, succeeded Euden in
1865 as cure of Zermatt, whUe Kronig was Prior in Niederges-
teln — both being, Uke Euden, Zermatters by origin. See Euden's
book, pp. 104, 108. Y

322 Notes on the History of Zermatt
85 This is the earliest mention I have come across of the
name borne by Dr. Lauber's inn, though Desor mentions that as
early as 1889, its first year, it had a sign. It is an instance of
the extreme conservatism of guide-books that Murray does not
substitute M. SeUer's name for Dr. Lauber's tiU the 1858 edition.
86 The 1861 edition, p. 345, says it is taken from ' Schla
gintweit's Stuhl.'
87 See the original accounts in the 1856 Murray, p. 306, and
' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' first series, pp. 128, 137.
88 The full account of thefr attempts and successful ascent
is to be found in the second edition of Messrs. Hudson and
Kennedy's ' Where there's a WUl there's a Way ' (1856, pp.
122-38), which contains, besides the narrative of thefr ascent of
Mont Blanc on Aug. 14, 1855, that of two ascents of Monte
Eosa. The first edition has only the Mont Blanc narrative,
though in the Preliminary Eemarks thefr successful ascent of
Monte Eosa is mentioned. See Herren Ulrich and WeUen-
mann's paper in ' Berg- und Gletscherfahrten,' first series, pp.
279-94, which contains also a fuU description of the ascent of
August 13 or 14 ; and BaU's ' Western Alps ' (original edition,
p. 299 ; 1875 edition, p. 317).
89 Here are the dates : 1856, AUaHnhom ; 1858, Dom ; 1859,
Eympfischhorn ; 1860, Alphubel ; 1861, Nord End, Lyskamm,
Weisshorn, and Castor ; 1862, Taschhorn and Dent Blanche ;
1863, Dent d'H(5rens ; 1864, Eothhorn and Pollux ; 1865, Gabel
horn and Matterhorn. The date of the first ascent of the
Strahlhorn does not seem to be recorded, but is certainly later
than 1852 ; it was cUmbed by 1856 (See WiUs's ' Wanderuigs,'
p. 170). 90 Peyer, ' Geschiehte des Eeisens in der Schweiz,' p. 208.

INDEX

IThe List of Works relating to Switzerland — pp. 124-49 — is pre
ceded by its own special Index on pp. 120-24, and is therefore
not included in the following Index.]

Aa, Peter van der, 23, 168
Accidents, 30, 138, 135, 174,
209, 241, 263
Adler Pass, 295, 308
Mneas SyMus, 10
Agassiz, (1) 99, 141, 285-6; (2)
138, 182, 219
AiguiUe du Goiiter, huts on,
153-4, 245, 248
 Midi, hut near, 154, 249
— Verte, 108
Airolo, 194, 198
Alamannians, 8
Albasinis, 235
Albert of Stade, 9
Albis, 43
Albrecht, A., 301
Aldrich, 14
Aletschhorn, 108
AU' Acqua, 150, 212-3
AUalinhorn, 145, 322
AUahn Pass, 290, 303
AUbut, 94
' Alhnend,' 260-2
Alpenstocks, 7, '18, 20, 35, 45,
164
' Alpina,' 144

ako
Alpine Club, 88, 108
— Guide, 101, 108-9, 115, 190
— Poems, 13, 21, 24, 60-2,
124-5, 128, 143, 149 ; Addi
tions, xi
Alps, 24, 65, 72
— books relating to the, 24, 45,
96, 120-49
— dangers of the, 17, 45, 49,
101, 164-5, 177, 263
' Alps,' 35-6, 261
Altmann, 166, 172
Amadeus, Bishop, 257
— Duke, 313
Americans, 77
Anniviers vaUey, 104, 252
' Anleitung,' 30, 43, 98
Anselm, St., 157
Aosta, 152, 157, 159, 161, 178,
239, 266
AppenzeU, 47, 105, 133 ; section
of S.A.C., 180
Appleton, 77
Ar^te Blanche, 46, 272, 281, 318
Arlberg railway, 107
Arnod, 266
Aroleit, 177-8, 260, 264 T 2

324

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

AroUa, 152, 242
ArvSron, Source de 1', 61, 63
Asia's speech, 61
Augstalberg, 178, 266
Avalanches, 35, 65, 69, 72, 100,
165, 224, 263
Avienus, 12
Axenstein, 153
Axenstrasse, 114
¦Aymon, Count, 313
Azzo of Milan, 194

B., F., 52
Badeker : guide-book, 76, 79,
115, 289
— Ufe of, 81
Baden, 10
Badrutt, 220
BaU, Ml-., 289-90, 317
BaU's, Mr., guide-book, 101, 108,
115, 190
Balmat, J., 69, 951
Banisegg, 27
Barenegg, 152, 242
Basel, 59, 106
Baths, 10, 49, 97,198-200,206,
213, 219
Baumgartner, Herr, 101
Baumossier torrent, 260
Bavarian princess, 277
Beasts of chase, 260-1
Beatenberg, 152, 242
Beatus, St., 3
Beaumont, Albanis, 213
— Elie de, 277-8
Beeverel, J., 168
Belalp, 152
BeUevue H6tel, 151, 223
— PaviUon, 150, 217
Bells ; at Grindelwald, 27 ; at
Zermatt, 263
Berchtold, Canon, 317
— Duke, 199
— inn kept by, 221
BergU hut, 154, 249-50
Berlepsch, 85

BEE
Bern, town of, 48, 59, 105, 168
— view from, 75, 78
Bernard, St., 4, 156. See Great
and Little St. Bernard
Berneck, K. von, 87
Berner's guide-book, 87
Bernese Oberland, 3, 25-7, 51,
53-5, 62-3, 81, 91, 93, 104,
110, 118, 134-5, 141-3, 146,
148, 172, 191, 285 ; Additions,
xi
Berthod, J. C, 271
Berthout van Berchem, 28
Bertolini's inn, 151, 237
Bertrand, 97
Besson, 41, 97
Bignasco, 153, 245
Buier, Anna, 263
Binn, 153, 191, 245
Bird, Mr., 309
BlackweU, Mr., 297
Blair's cabin, 153, 212
Blandrate, Jocelin of, 255
Blatter, S., 209, 217
Block, M. de, 210
Bogue, 94
Bohren, C, 209
Boner, 92
Bonstetten, Von, (1) 124, (2) 27
Books on Switzerland, 120 -49 ;
Additions, xi.
Borea, 285
Bordier, 130, 172, 192
Botany, 67, 86, 98-9, 109, 175,
181, 270, 272-3, 289, 312
Bottens, M. de, 187
Bourg St. Pierre, 161, 192-8
Bourrit, 29, 83, 68, 107, 180-1,
183, 166, 172-3, 188, 192,
197, 201, 212
— hut built by, 153, 245
Bi-adshaw, 93-4
Branschen, 262
Brantschen, J., 318
Bregenzerwald, 187
BreU, 268, 275
— inn at, 152, 239

Index

325

Breithorn, Cime Brune du, 180,
269
— glacier, 27
— peak, 274, 308, 316
Bremble, John de, 8
Brenner Pass, 9
Brevent, 175
— panorama from the, 75, 78
Brevoort, Mrs., 217
Bridges, 20, 45, 165
Brienzer Eothhorn inn, 151,
223, 224-5
Brockedon, 138, 206, 213, 218,
275
Briin, Frederika, 61
Briinig Pass, 27
 railway over, 107
 road over, 112-3
Brunnen, 175
Brunner, (1) 219, (2) 280
Bi-unod, 240
Buet, 25, 51, 133, 175
— accident on the, 80, 133,
174-5
— panorama from the, 28
Biirgi, 215-6
Biirgi-Fuck, 220
Burgundians, 3
Burnet, 58
Butler, Mr. A. J., 187
Byron, Lord, 60-2, 188, 186
Byways, 51, 77

C-iMAUKITZI, 198
Capuchins, 58, 195-8, 214
Carlo, Father, 195
Carriages taken over passes,
58-9, 196
— to Switzerland, 59, 72, 182
Castor, 317, 322
Cathrein, Herr, 239, 249
CeUini, B., 125
Centenary, 251
Cervin, 67, 179, 266. See Matter
horn and Sylvio
Chamonix, 2, 20-1, 23, 28-30

82, 84, 87, 89, 42, 45-6, 60-3,
68, 79, 81, 84-5, 89, 91, 98,
96, 102, 110, 118-9, 140, 142-
4,285
— guides at, 55, 61, 68, 189
— history of, 25, 68, 73, 128,
138, 173, 313
— inns at, 46, 150, 201-6
— relief of the valley of, 29
Champery, inn at, 152, 239
Channel, passage across the,
70
Chapels for strangers, 10, 206
Chapiu, 150, 206
Chapman, Mr., 809
Charles Borromeo, St., 194
Charles the Great, 5
Charlet, 194, 202 5
ChatUlon, 256
Chaumont, panorama from the,
88
Cheese-making, 86
Chouson, 177, 255
Cima di Jazzi, 304
Circular Exchange Notes, 72
Civiale's, M., book, 96
Clemens' inn, 298, 800, 304, 307
Cnut, King, 5
Coaz, Herr, 100
Cochet, 213
Cogne, 85, 145
Coins, 22, 33, 44, 49, 51, 188
Col de Balme, 151, 219
— de Jaman, 61
— de Voza, 150, 217
— d'Herens, 288-9, 296, 305,
318
— d'Ollen, 153, 245
— du Galibier, road over, 192
— du Gdant, 28, 32, 173-4, 241
 accident on, 241
 hut on, 154, 246
— du Tour, 142
Cold, 18-9, 164
Coleridge, 60
CoUombs, M., 294
Colvunbanus, St., 8

326

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

CombaUaz inn, 151, 226
Concordia hut, 249
Conrad, Emperor, 813
Constanz, guide-book to diocese
of, 105
Conty's guide-book, 90
Conway's, Mr., guide-book, 110
Cook, Mr., 1, 94
Coryate, T., 248
Costa, 281, 315
Courmayeur, 151, 287
Couteran, 202-8, 212
Couttet, Franpois, 206
— Sylvain, 248
Coxe, W., 38, 58, 131, 171,
175-6, 196, 200-1
Crampons, 17, 43, 45, 64, 164,
267
Cravate, hut on the, 249
Creton, 211
Crevasses, 19-20, 165, 177, 209
Curses imprecated, 160, 254

Dante, 77-8, 161
Dauphin^, 84-5, 90, 110, 138,
142, 159, 192, 819
Davos, 153, 243-4
Delapierre's inn, 151, 237
' Delices,' 20, 23, 167-9
Delmont, Gaspard, 234
Delucs, the, 25, 172, 213
Dent Blanche, 108, 318, 322
— d'H&ens, 822
Desor, M., 99, 141, 221, 245,
247, 288
Desportes, M., 212
Devero Alp, 153, 245
Diablerets, Hotel des, 152
' Dictionnaire de la Suisse,' 40
Discovery Eock, 267
Docker, Mr., 297
Dogs, 159-160
DoUfus, PaviUon, 154, 247
Dom, 108, 142, 305, 322
Dorig, 248
Dorsaz, A., 226

Downes, 55
Dragons, 14, 163, 170
Ducrfee, 61
Diirren, 240

Ebel, J. G. ; his guide-book :
in EngUsh, 57, 63-71
in French, 52, 177
in German, 34, 43-7, 114,
176
pirated editions, 180-1
successors, 79
 his life, 47, 180
Ebenalpstock, 180
Eggischhorn, 92, 225
— inn, 152, 239
EgU, 94
'Eighers, the,' 68, 188-4
Emery, M., 59, 72, 182
Emperors across the Alps, 9
' Encyclopedie d'Yverdun,' 40
Engadine, 2, 91, 103, 112, 219,
236
Engelberg, inns at, 151, 231-2
— monastery at, 27, 35, 104,
175, 231
— monks of, 25, 36, 175
EngeUiardt, C. M., 226-7, 229
 books by, 278, 287, 296,
305, 815
 ' father of Zermatt,' 801,
310
 -risits to Zermatt, 277-9,
287, 291-8, 296, 800, 310-11
English in Switzerland, 57-63,
175, 180, 182, 215, 276
— guide-books for, 57, 63-71,
74,93
Engstlen Alp, 126, 152, 239
Erin, J. B., 268
Ermenfrid, 157
Eschen, M., 80, 133, 174
Escher, Von, 82, 176, 300
Etroubles, 6, 161
' Europe lUustrfie, L', ' 95
Evolena, 152, 241, 252

Index

327

EXC
Exchaquet, M., 28, 178
Expenses of a Swiss tour, 44,
59, 69, 72, 91-2, 114, 182

F. B.'s book, 52
Faulberg hut, 154, 249
Faulhorn ascended in winter,
218
— early ascent of the, 217
— inns on the, 150, 209, 217,
225
— panorama from the, 44, 81,
102, 217
Fee, crater of, 305
— glacier, 319
— inns at, 158, 245
Feierabend, Dr., 36, 175
FeUce, M. de, 40
FerpMe inn, 158, 244, 285
Fi^ry inn, 153, 244,
' Fieudo, le,' 58
FmUen, 177, 254
Finsteraarhorn, 107
Fl^g^re inn, 151, 230
Forbes, James D., 99, 140, 142-
8, 148, 233, 246, 287-9
— John, 142, 227-230, 292-3,
296
Fortifications, 266, 268, 275-6
Fosson, 244
Fowler, Mr., 809
Francis de Sales, St., 25
Francis, Father, 196, 198
French Alps, 78, 84-5, 90, 92,
94,104, 110, 118,188,192. See
Chamonix, Dauphin^, and
Savoy
Freshfield, Mr. D. W., 146, 148,
236
— Mrs. H., 145-6, 236, 238,
240, 243, 245
Frey, 156
Friedlander, 156
Frohn Alp inn, 152
Furka, 27, 48
— inn on, 151, 231

GOE
Furka, road over, 113-4

Gabelhoen, 108, 322
— crater of the, 279
Gadmenthal, 154, 249
Gaiters, 7, 35
Gallus, St., 3
Geiger's map, 21, 167
Geisshaussler, 12
' Gemalde der Schweiz,' 95, 219
Gemmi, 48-9, 208, 263
— road over, 118, 191, 207
Geneva, 25, 30, 38, 58, 64, 69,
73, 78, 102, 118-9, 174
— Lake of, 53, 60, 64, 73
Geology, 28, 41, 98, 100-1,
109, 195, 294
Germans in Italian valleys, 140,
267
— in Western Switzerland, 8
— in Zermatt, 178, 257
Gervais, St., 150, 218
Gesner, Konrad, 12, 125-6, 162
G6troz glacier, 137
— Hotel, 152
Gibbon, 58
Giessbach, 112
— inn, 151, 220
Giomein, 239, 266
Glaciers, 17, 19-20, 25-7, 45,
58, 65, 67, 72, 99-100, 166,
172, 177, 286, 294; Addi-
tions, xi
— theory of, 99, 145-6, 172,
189-90
Glarus, 47, 58, 83, 105, 133,
172, 191, 291
Gleckstein hut, 154, 250
' Gletscher, Der,' 179-80, 271
' Gletschermann, Der, ' 186
Glion railway, 112
GUssading, 17-8, 164
Glutz-Blotzheim, 31, 37, 44,
54, 176
Gnifetti, 317
Goethe, 131

328

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

GOL
Goldau, 102
Gorner glacier, 178, 286, 292,
300
— Grat, 279, 294, 296, 298, 307
— — panorama from the, 308
— Hom, 808, 316-7
Gotthard, St., 51, 58-9, 102,
150, 173, 191
 hospice, 58, 150, 152,
194-8
 railway, 107, 112
 relief of the district, 29
 road, 58, 113, 196
Gottsponer, Herr, 227, 276, 280,
282-3, 287, 290, 311
Grand Paradis, 143
Grande Chartreuse, 85
- Tour, 249
Grandes Jorasses, 108
Grands Mulets hut and inn,
153-4, 246, 248
Graubiinden, 2, 21, 91, 103,
112-4, 125, 146, 148, 172,
191, 219, 236, 278
Great Britain, guide-books to,
81, 168
— Scheidegg, 36, 62
 inn on the, 151, 223
— St. Bernard, 4-9, 25, 48,
60, 79, 137, 150, 156-8, 161,
192-4
Grebel, 12
Gredig, 236
Gremaud, Abbe, 156, 161,192-3,
812
Grenzspitze, 320
Gressoney, 151, 237, 267, 274
GreviUe, Mr., 58, 196
Grieben's guide-book, 87
Gries Pass, 27, 213
Grimsel, 48-9, 126
— hospice, 160, 198-200
Grindelwald, 28, 33-4, 39, 46,
67, 104, 118, 182, 181
— beU at, 27
— glaciers of, 20-1, 27, 39, 67,
187, 166, 169, 172-3

GUI
Grindelwald, history of, 27, 268,
813
— inns at, 46, 150, 208-10
— name of, 186-7
— old pass to, 27, 263
— railway to, 112
— Scheideck, 36
— views of, 21, 166
Grindero Gwaldsami, 260
Grisons. See Graubiinden
Gross Mythen, 158
Grote, G., 141, 171
Gruner, G. S., 129, 166, 168,
172, 179, 184; Additions, xi
— J. E., 105, 168
Griinhornhiitte, 154, 249
Gui, M., 277
Guichard's hut, 154, 248
' Guide des Voyageurs,' 88-9
• — du Voyageur,' 38-40
Guide-books to Switzerland,
arrangement of :
alphabetical, 22, 32, 43,
46, 60, 62, 54, 56, 66, 78,
82
cantons separately, 53, 94
continuous tour, 26, 28, 30,
38, 66
from centres, 82, 38, 48, 50,
54, 56-7, 73, 85
political, 24
routes, 32, 38-9, 56-7, 75,
79,82
characteristics of, 24, 114
definition of, 16
first, 22
— special, 25
germs of, 9
Ust of, 117
names of, 20, 167-8
to special districts, 25-31, 35,
84, 91, 101-7
 subjects, 96
to towns, 96-6, 105-6
Guides, 6-9, 19, 45, 51, 55, 61,
68, 69-70, 149, 165, 189, 268,
274-5, 291, 309

Index

329

H. M.
H. M., 50
HaU, Mr. MarshaU, 295
HaUer, A. von, 24, 128, 312
— G. E. von, 165
Halley, 14
Hamel, Dr., 135
Handegg inn, 151, 223
Hash, 126, 199-200, 248, 263
Havering, 156
Heidegger's guide-book, 31, 176
Heim, Prof., 100, 189
Heinzmann, 48
Helvetischer Almanach, 95
Henry II., 5
Herries, Farquhar, and Co., 72
Herschel, Sir J., 273
Hinter Ehein, source of, 46
Hints to travellers, 83, 85, 49,
70
Hirzel-Escher, 188, 274, 814
' Hoffen, In den,' 178, 252, 260
Hofiero, 260
Hofwyl, 288
Hohbahn, 279
Hohlauben, 267
Hornechurch, 156
HomU, 286, 319
H6tels. See Inns
Hottinger, 172'
Howard, 49
Hudson, Mr., 143, 309, 322
Hugi, 188
— up the Faulhorn in ¦winter,
218
Hugi's hut, 154, 247
Huts, Ust of, 153-4, 246-50

IcE caves, 100, 146
Icelanders, 6-9
Imseng, Pfarrer, 218, 290, 303
* Illustrated Europe,' 95
Illustrations. See Views
Inns, 33, 35, 46, 49, 80-1, 90-2,
111, 150
— arranged in an appendix, 50,
90, 92

LAK
Inns, list of, 150-3, 192-245
Interlaken, monastery at, 813
— railway at, 112
Irishmen, 3
' Itinerarium Antonini,' 9
'—des S. A. C' 190

J. E. M. guide-book, 1, 93
Joanne, A., guide-book, 80, 89
 Ufe, 89
Joch Pass, 27, 36
John de Bremble, 8
— of Pfiiffers, 198
Journeys out to Switzerland,
59, 70, 182
Jubilee, 251
Jungfrau, 68, 92, 107, 184, 137,
142, 184-6
' Jungfrauhorn,' 26, 185
Jura, 43, 90, 104, 132

Kalbehmatten's inn, 229
Kalbermatter family, 269
Kandersteg, 68
— inn, 160, 208
Kastenstein, 260
Kehrli, (1) 220, (2) 309
Keller, H., 47, 53, 56, 64, 102,
215, 218
Kdralio, M. de. Additions, xi
Kennedy, Mr., 143, 309, 322
Kleinerhorn, 819
Koch V. Berneck, 87
Kohl, 86
Kronig, Joseph, (1) 306, 321, (2)
272
Kuhn, Pfarrer, 181, 184, 208
Kypseler, G., 23

Labobde, De, 41, 130, 166
Lacroix's guide-book, 88
Lakes, Swiss, books relating to,
105, 119
 steamers on, 111-2

330 Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

Lakes, Swiss, views and maps
of, 47, 64, 73
Latour's guide-book, 91
Lauber family, 315
— Johann, 263
— Joseph, 277, 282, 288, 287,
298, 304, 311, 316
— Madame, 284, 287, 289, 293-
5
Lauber's inn at Zermatt, 151,
224, 251, 282-5, 287-8, 290,
293, 300, 304, 306, 316, 322
Lauener, Ulrich, 310
Lauterbrunnen, 23, 26-7, 83-4,
46, 67
— inns at, 150, 210-1
— railway to, 112
— Scheideck, 36
Lawinenthor, 145
Lawrence, Father, 195-7
Le Doulcet Pont^coulant, M.,
212
Lehmann, 209
Lehner, J. J., 244
Leigh, 185
Lengefeld, C. von, 134
Leonardo da Vinci, 162
Leukerbad, 10, 200, 207
— inns at, 150, 201
Levasseur's, M., book, 96
Linty's inn, 237
List of books, 120-149 ; Addi
tions, xi
— of huts, 168-4
— of inns, 150-8
— of roads, 113
Little Matterhorn, 180, 269
— Scheidegg. See Wengern Alp
— St. Bernard, 86, 150, 198
Lochmatter's inns, 151, 288-5,
246
Lorenzo, Father, 196-7
' Lost VaUey,' 266
Lotschen Pass, 263
Lower Grindelwald glacier, 21,
27, 166-7, 169
Luo, St., 152

MAT
Lucerne, Lake of, 35, 47, 105
— town of, 11, 106
Luscos, 237
Liitschine river, overflow of,
210
Liitschinen, Zwei, 33
Lyskamm, 316-7, 322

M., H., 50
M., T., 39, 173, 175
Macpherson, Mr., 805
Macugnaga, inn at, 151, 232-5
— map of glacier at, 78
— men of, 255
Maderanerthal, 152, 242
Madutz, J., 291, 295-6
Majolus, St., 6
Malachrida, 219
MaUsin, Mr., 226, 233, 282, 286,
289-90, 807
MaUet, H., 61
Maioja, 151, 286
Mannlichen inn, 153, 244
Maps, 21, 28, 38-4, 46-7, 60, 58,
55-6, 64, 75, 77-9, 81-4, 86,
88-90, 92-3, 124-6, 167, 178,
257, 278, 287, 299, 305
Marie of Sixt, 214
— of Zei-matt, 276, 280
— Paradis, 205
Marmots, 200, 261
' Marones,' 5-8, 157
Marquet of Visp, 257
Martel, P., 128
Martin, St., 252
Martyn, Prof., 89, 173, 175
Matt. See Zermatt
Mattenbei-g, 179
Matterhorn, 46, 67, 88, 147,
272-3, 281, 297
— from Italy, 145
— huts on, 154, 249
— name ol, 177-9, 266
— poem on. See Additions, xi
— See Cervin and Sylvio
Mattmark inn, 162, 239

Index

331

Maurice, St., 3, 263
 Abbey of, 4, 161
Mauvoisin inn, 152
Mechel, Chr. de, 102, 178
Meiners, 132, 166
Melchsee inn, 153
Menabraye, J. B., 274
'Mercurius Helveticus,' 20-2,
167
Merian, M., 13, 16, 20-1, 165-8,
198
Meyer's Eeisebiicher, 85-6
Meynet, 301
Minette, 301
Missionaries, 8, 9
Moccand, 214
Monbego, 163
Monboso, 162
Monch, 143, 184-5
Monchjoch, 27, 187, 263
— hut on, 249
Mont, De, family, 256
Mont Blanc district, 25, 27, 63,
110. See Chamonix
 peak of, 148
 accident on, 185
—  De Saussure's ascent
of, 29, 69, 131, 155, 173-5
 first ascent of, 36, 69,
107, 132, 175, 271-2
 later ascents of, 28, 45-
6, 65, 73, 137, 139, 141, 143,
145, 149, 208, 322
 madness of climbers of,
75-6
 poems on, 60-1, 149
 tour of, 30, 89, 143, 274
— Cenis, 5, 85, 159
 road over, 192
— Fr^ty inn, 152, 240
— Iseran, 145
' — Eose,' 180, 271
— V61an, first ascent of the,
25
— Ventoux, 11, 161
Monte Generoso inn, 152, 243
— Motterone inn, 158

Monte Prosa inn, 162, 198
— Eosa district, 46, 140, 142,
144-6, 278, 299
 Germans around, 140,
178, 257, 267
 name of, 271, 816
 peak, 78, 88, 135-6, 143,
308, 816-7, 320-1
 ascended, 143, 291,
299, 309-10, 317, 319, 322
 tour of, 146, 268, 274,
282
Montenvers inn, 150, 203, 211-
2
MoreU, J. E., 98
Moritz, St., 161, 219-20
Morozzo, 317
MortiUet, G. de, 92
Motets inn, 160, 210
Mountain climbing, 11, 25, 49,
77, 83, 96, 101
— dangers, 17-20, 26, 49, 101,
164-5, 177. See Accidents
— pastures, 36-6
— scenery, 2, 13, 60, 165-6,
162
Mountains, list of, 15
Muddock, J. E., 1, 93
Miinster, Sebastian, 125, 199-
200, 207, 213, 265
Murith, Prior, 26
Murray's Sublimities, 138, 189
Murray's Swiss Guide-book, 56-
7, 74, 114, 188
 compared with Badeker,
138
Mttrren, 240
— inns at, 152, 239
— railway to, 112
Myconius, 12

Nails in boots, 7, 35, 45, 160
Nant Bourrant inn, 151, 224
Nellen's inn, 225
NeuehStel, 47, 106, 221
Neuchatelois, Hotel des,154,247

332

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

Newton, Sir Isaac, 14, 163
Nicholas of Thingor, Abbot, 4,
9, 161
Niesen, 13, 126
— inn on the, 152, 240
Niklaus, St., 66, 256
 inn, 151, 226-230
Nord End, 296, 322
Norman of Aosta, 254-5
Niifenen Pass, 213

Oeeealp Pass, road over, 114
Oberto's inn, 234
Oda, Bishop, 161
Oehlmann, Herr, 9, 157, 161
Ognan, PaviUon de 1', 153, 245
Oppermann, 278
Ordinaire, M., 291, 319
Ormonts, H&tel des, 162
Osenbriiggen, Prof., 116, 155
Ostspitze, 291, 299, 309, 820
Outhne routes, 33-35, 45, 48,
50, 54, 73
Oxford, 157, 262

Paocaed, Dr., 36, 69, 132, 175,
261
Panoramas, 28, 44, 46, 75,
77-9, 81-2, 84, 86, 89, 102,
278, 286, 308
Paracelsus, 219
Paterson's guide-book, 93
Pedestrian tours, 63, 70
Pedriolo valley, 267
Peel, Sir E., 302
Pelvoux, 319
Periods in history of Swiss
travel, 2
 guide-books, 114
 of Zermatt, 277
Perrin the clerk, 256
Perrini family, 258
Petrarch, 11, 161
Peyer's, Herr, book, 10, 116,
166

Pfiiffers, 10, 150, 161, 198
' Philosophical Transactions,'
58, 130, 166
Piedmontese Alps, 78, 85, 146-
6, 148, 188, 269
Pierre Pointue inn, 152, 241
Pflatus, 11-2, 102, 126, 129,
162
— inn on, 152
— raUway up, 112
PUgrhns, 5, 7, 318-9
Pinturicchio, 10
Pirated editions of Ebel, 180-1
 of Eichard, 55-6
Placidus a Spescha, Father, 24,
172
Platea, De, family, 259, 263-4
Platter, Thomas, 266, 314
Plurs, 102
Pococke, 25, 128, 178, 201-2,
212
Poems on the Alps, 13, 21, 24,
60-2, 124-5, 128, 143, 149 ;
Additions, xi
PoUingerjoch, 318
Pollux, 317, 322
Porte Blanche, 318. See Ar^te
Blanche
Port Meadow, 262
Praborgne, 66, 177-8, 259, 273.
See Zermatt
'Practical Swiss Guide,' 93
Prarayen inn, 153
Prate's inn, 232
Protestantism, 78
Proz, Cantme de, 151, 226
Puiseux, M., 291, 319

QuEENSEEEEY, Marquess of. See
Additions, xi
Queyras, 86

Eatlways in Switzerland, 107,
112
Eanda, avalanche near, 229

Index

333

Eanda, inn at, 152, 241
Eayer, W., 214
Eebman, 13, 126, 185
Eecordon, Mr., 59
Eeichard's guide-books, 42
Eeichenbach inn, 151, 220
EeUefs, 29, 173
Eemy, St., 5-6
Eheliicanus, 13, 126
Ehone Glacier inn, 151, 224
Eichard's French Guide-book,
90, 182
— S-wiss Guide-book, 52
 pirated, 55-6
Eied, inn at, 153, 244
Eied Pass, 291
Eiede family, 253
Eieder Alp inn, 152
Eifiel Alp, 153
Eiffelberg, 279, 294, 298, 307
— panorama from the, 286
Eiffelhorn, 288
Eiffel mn, 151, 236, 306-7, 321
Eigi, 163
— inns on, 47, 150, 214-17
— map of, 81
— panorama from the, 44, 47,
79, 102
— raUways up, 107, 112
Eoads over Swiss passes, 113,
192
Eobert, M., 207
Eodunerus, Andreas, 163
Eoger, Bishop, 313
Eomans, 3
Eope, 19, 45, 267
'Eosa,' 179, 271
' Eose ' glacier, 63
Eosenlaui glacier, 63
— inn, 150, 206
Eothgrat, 279, 296
Eothhorn, Moming, 322
— Passage du, 139, 815
— Unter, 304
Bousseau, 24
Eoute system, 32, 38-9, 56-7,
75, 79, 82

SCH
Eoux's inn, 217
Eoyal Society, 14, 58, 130, 168,
166
Euchat, A., 21, 23, 114, 168
Euden, Pfarrer, 295, 312, 821
EudoU, Abbot, 5-8, 160-1
— of Habsburg, 254
Euskin, Mr., 144, 297
Eympfischhorn, 322

S. A. C. huts, 249
 Itinerarium, 190
Saas, 33, 46, 55, 81, 119, 130,
255, 298
— inns at, 151, 218, 298
Sabbath, 78
Sanetsch inn, 163
Santis inn, 158, 243
Saracens, 5, 166
Saussure, De, 24-5, 28-80, 69,
107, 131, 172, 180, 196-6,
232, 251, 267-8
— ascent of Mont Blanc by.
See Mont Blanc
— editions of his works, 174
— huts built by, 153-4, 246
Savoy, 84, 90, 92, 94. See Cha
monix
Schalbetter, A., 268
Scheinige Platte inn, 152, 241
Scheuchzer, J. J., 13-5, 21,
127-8, 163, 168-9, 271
Schiller, 133-4
SchUthorn, 240
Schinner, Cardinal, 10, 200
Schlagintweits, 299-300, 321
Schleicher, 269
Schoch, 176
Schopf, 186
Schreckhorn, 49, 63, 108
Schreiber, 216
Schrieber, 214
Schulzki. See Sczulzki
Sohwarenbach inn, 150, 207
Schwarz, B., 155
Schwarzegg hut, 154, 250

334

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

Schwarz See, 153, 279, 286, 298
Schwarzthor, 290
' Schweiz. Bibliothek,' 38, 38-9
Scientific, 24, 28-9, 36, 41, 47,
86: sections in guide-books.
See Botany, Geology, Glaciers,
Zoology
Sczulski, Pfarrer, 226-230
Seelisberg inn, 152
Seiler, M. Alexandre, 806, 821
— Joseph, 294, 306
Sellers of Bonigen, 223
S^monviUe, M. de, 212
Shelley, 60-1
SherwiU, Markham, 78, 138,
214
Siena, 10
Sigismund, Emperor, 9
SUberbast, 317
Silberhorn, 26, 81, 185
Silber Sattel, 291, 299, 309, 320
Silenen, Jost von, 200
Silvretta hut, 249
Simler, Josias, 16-20, 21, 126,
164-5
Simond, 203, 205
Simplon hospice, 150, 194
— road, 113
Sion, bishops of, 10, 179, 200,
252, 254, 256, 258, 264-5
Siric, Archbishop, 5
Sixt, 118-9, 148
— inns at, 160, 213
Sloane, Sir Hans, 14
' Smala, la,' 248
Smith, Albert, 142, 201-2
Smyth, Messrs., 809, 822
Snow-blindness, 19, 45, 165
Snow shoes, 18, 164
Soldiers, 3, 9
' Sorrento, The Countess of,' 74
Spectacles, 19, 166
Stachelberg, 151, 219
Stade, Albert of, 9
Stalden, inn at, 161, 220-2
Stanyan, Abraham, 23, 169-
71

THlfi
Stanyan, Temple, 169-71
Starke's, Mrs., guide-book, 74
Staubbach, 26, 84, 62, 67
Steamers, 111
Stein inn, 151, 225
Stelvio Pass, road over, 192
Stephen, Mr. LesUe, 155, 170
Stockhorn, (1) 13, 49, 126 ; (2)
294
Stockje, accident on the, 263
— hut on the, 154, 260
' Stoicheiographia,' 15, 128
Stokalper family, 194
Strahlhorn, 322
Striated rocks, 286
Stromer's guide-book, 87
Struve, Prof., 28-9
Studer, Herr Bernhard, 100, 106,
155, 288, 286-6
— Prof. Gottlieb, 106-7, 141,
165, 190, 225, 240, 286, 296-
6, 804
Stumpf's Chronicle, 16, 21, 125,
177, 199
Sunburn, 46
Surenen Pass, 35
Sustenhorn, 225
Sylvio, or Sylvius, 67, 178-9,
266. See Cer-yin and Matter
horn

T. M., 39, 173, 175
' Tabula Peutingeriana,' 9
Tacul hut, 154, 249
Tairraz, 201-5, 239
Tiisch, Pfarrer of, 253
Taschhorn, 822
Taugwald, Matthias zum, 291
TeU, WiUiam, 1, 133
Territet railway, 112
Tessin, 103, 131, 191
T^te Nofre inn, 151, 231
Th6odule, St., 179-80
 Pass of, 46, 60, 265, 268-
70,272, 274-5, 280-1, 300, 304

Index

335

Theodule, St., Pass of, inn on
the, 151, 237, 301-8, 306
 ladies on the, 279
 name of the, 178-9,
206-6
 old pass, 275
Thingor, abbot of, 4, 9, 161
Thirty Years' War, 13
Thomases of Bex, 270, 312
Tissot's, M., book. See Addi
tions, xi
TitUs, first ascent of the, 25,
86, 175
Tobogganing, 18, 164
Todi district, 172, 191
— hut on the, 154
— section of the S.A.C., 249
Topffer, M., 138, 189, 285
Tosa FaUs inn, 152
Tour, La, famUy of, 256, 258,
313
Tourist geography, 2
Towns, guide-books to, 105-7
— plans of, 81-2, 84-6, 88-9,
93, 188
TrachseUauinen, 152
TraatSte, Pavilion de, 152, 241
Trient inn, 160, 211
Triftbach, 200
Trifthom hut, 154, 249
Triftjoch, 296, 309
Trond, monastery of St., 5, 160
Triibsee inn, 153
Tschmgel Pass, 67-8, 187-8
Tschudi .Sgidius, 125-6
— Iwan von, 82-4
Tschugger, Anna, 268
Tiirst's map, 124, 178, 257
Twins, 317, 322
TyndaU, Prof., 100
Tyrol, 55, 93-4, 146
UETLiEEEa raU-s^ay, 107, 112
Ufrich, Duke, 12
— J. H. F., 168
— Melchior, 142, 290-1, 295-6,
804, 311

VOR
Ulrichshorn, 291
Umlauft's, Prof., book, 96
Unger, Dr., 244
Unteraar glacier, 247
Unterwalden, 104, 187
Uri, 140, 178, 195
Urnerioeh, 113, 191

Vadianus, 12, 162
Valais, 4, 16,.21, 96, 104, 126-7,
141-2, 172, 178, 187,254, 278,
312. See Saas, Visp valleys,
Zermatt
Val Anzasca, 81, 272. See
Borca and Macugnaga
Val d'Ossola, 104, 213
— Orsine, 175
— Piora inn, 153
— Tournanche, 81, 270. See
BreU
 inn at, 151, 237-8
Vaud, 58, 102, 118-9
Veglia Alp, 153, 245
VeU, 45
V61an, first ascent of the, 25
Venetz, 137 ; Additions, xi
Verra glacier, 263
— the innkeeper, 232-3
Via Mala, 112-3
Viesch inn, 151, 225
Views, 20-3, 43, 46, 58-5, 64,
73, 75, 78, 81-2, 88-9, 93-4,
130, 186, 139-40, 145-8,
166-8, 173, 191, 198, 210,
246, 247, 249, 278, 286-7,
293, 297, 299, 806
Vincent, N., 267
— P., 275, 315
Viridet, Maro, 139, 218, 276, 316
Visp vaUeys, 23, 38, 46, 55, 66,
119, 139, 271-3, 289. See
Saas and Zermatt
Vissoie inn, 153
Vocabularies, 44, 55, 64
Vogel, 12
Vormann, 217

336

Swiss Travel and Guide-Books

' Voyageur, Guide du,' 38-40
' — Le, en Suisse,' 52
' Voyageurs, Guide des,' 38-9

Wagnee, J. J., 21-3, 114, 163,
167
Waldensians, 78, 85, 179, 266
Waldibalm inn, 152, 242
Waldspitz inn, 152, 243
Waldstiitten, 187
WaU's, Mr., book, 64-71
Walter of Pra Borno, 254
Wangserberg, 163
Wandfluhjoch, 318
Watt, Joachim von, 12
' Wegweiser,' 42, 51
Weilenmann, Herr, 310, 822
Weismiiller, 240
' Weisse Briider,' 317
Weissenstein inn, 151, 218
Weissgrat, 46, 272, 281, 318
Weisshorn, 108, 322
Weissthor, 318. See Weissgrat
— New, 291, 295, 297, 304
— Old, 287, 289, 299
WeUig, Herr, 239, 249
Welschen, Pfarrer, 306, 821
Wengern Alp, 26-7, 36
 inns on, 161, 222-3
Werra family, 268
Western Alps, 77-8
Wetterhorn, 107
— H6tel, 162, 241
WiUibald, 8
Wills, Mr., 107, 143, 145, 214,
235, 250, 302-4
Windham, W., 26, 128, 173,
201-2, 212
Winkehnatt, 178, 260
Wiirttemberg, Duke of, 12
Wykeham, WOliam of, 167

Wyss, J. E., 63, 104, 163, 166
Wyttenbach, Pfarrer, 25-7, 40-1
Xylotectus, 12
' YvEEDUN, Encyclopedie d',' 40
Zaseneeeg, 27
ZeiUer, Martin, 20-1, 166
Zermatt, 23, 33, 39, 46, 55, 60,
66, 79, 81, 139, 178, 251-322
— first English at, 60, 270
— guide-books to, 96, 110, 119,
279-280
— history of, 251 sqg., 812
— inns at, 46, 151, 224, 268,
270, 280-5, 287, 290, 292-3,
296-8, 300-1, 306, 315-6, 321
— name of, 177-8, 257-8
— new inn at, 298, 800, 804,
307
— i-aUway to, 112
— traveUers' books at, 280, 284,
294
Zersalzgeben, Anna, 263
Zimmermann, 12
Zuial, 104, 252
— inn at, 152, 241
Zmutt, 177-8, 262, 260
Zoology, 98, 100-1, 142
Zsigmondy's, E., book, 101
' Zu den tiefen Matten,' 252
Zurbriicken, 218, 298
ZiU-ich, Lake of, 47, 73, 105
— map of, 21
— town of, 47, 96, 106
— view of, 43, 73
Zurlauben, De, 41, 130, 166
ZwiUinge, 317, 322
Zybach, 199

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Watts' Dictionary of Chemistry. Kew Edition (4 vols.). Vol. 1, Svo. 42«.
Webb's Celestial Objects for Common Telescopes. Crown Svo. 9s.

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ElUcott's (Bishop) Commentary on St. Paul's Epistles, Svo, Corinthians 1, 16*.
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