YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Coryat's Crudities In Two Volumes Volume II GLASGOW PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY ROBERT MACLEHOSE &= COMPANY LTD. FOR JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS, PUBLISHERS TO THE UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW MACMILLAN AND CO. LTD. LONDON THE MACMILLAN CO. NEW YORK SIMPKIN, HAMILTON AND CO. LONDON MACMILLAN AND BOWES CAMBRIDGE DOUGLAS AND FOULIS EDINBURGH MCMV Coryat's Crudities Hastily gobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia alias Switzerland, some parts of high Germany and the Nether lands ; Newly digested in the hungry aire of Odcombe in the County of Somerset, and now dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling Members of this Kingdome By THOMAS CORYAT VOLUME II Glasgow James MacLehose and Sons Publishers to the University New York: The Macmillan Company MCMV THE TABLE Observations of Vicenza, . PAGE 2 Observations of Verona, . . . . 16 Observations of Brescia, . . . . 41 Observations of Bergamo, . ... 49 Observations of Rhetia, commonly called the Grisons Country, . . . . 63 An Oration by Hermann Kirchner in Praise of Travel in Germany, . . . .71 Observations of Chur, ..... 88 Observations of Helvetia, otherwise called Switzer land, .... . . 92 Observations of Zurich, ..... 94 Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Gaspar Waserus, 113 Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Gaspar Waserus, 121 Epistle from Gaspar Waserus to Thomas Coryat, 122 THE TABLE PAGE Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Rodolphus Hospinianus, . . . . • IZ3 Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Henry Bullinger, 127 Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Marcus Buelerus, 130 Epistle from Marcus Buelerus to Thomas Coryat, 135 Observations of Baden, 137 Observations of Basle, 152 Observations of Some Parts of High Germany, . 178 Observations of Strasburg, . 181 Observations of Lower Baden, 199 Observations of Turlowe, . 205 Observations of Heidelberg, 207 Observations of Spires, 231 Observations of Frankenthal, 252 Observations of Worms, 255 Observations of Mayence, 269 Observations of Frankfort, 287 Observations of Bingen, 295 Observations of Bonn, 309 THE TABLE PAGE Observations of Cologne, . 311 Observations of Nimeguen,. 357 Observations of Gorkum, . 362 Observations of Dordrecht, 364 Observations of Flushing, . 373 Posthumous Fragments of the Poems of Rev. George Coryat, 377 Index, . . . 409 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A Delineation of the Amphi-Theater of Verona, 24 A True Figure of the Famous Clock of Strasburg, 192 A Sciographie or Modell of the Great Tun of Heidelberg, . . . . . .224 Frederick IV., Count Palatine of the Rhine, . 232 The Pembroke Dragon, ..... 392 THE SECOND VOLUME OF Coryat's Crudities Containing his Observations of Vicenza, Verona, Brescia, Bergamo, Rhetia, commonly called the Grisons Country, Helvetia, Some Parts of High Germany, Stras burg, Heidelberg, Worms, Mayence, Frankfort, Cologne and Gelderland XI CORYATS CRUDITIES VOLUME II I Departed from Venice in a Barke to Padua about eight of the clock in the evening the eighth day of August being Munday, after I had made my aboad there sixe weekes and two dayes, and came to Padua about nine of the clocke the next morning. Here I was very graciously used by my Lord Wentworth. For he invited me most Lord kindly to dinner to his owne table, which courtesie the Wentworth. very course of humanity doth injoyne me thankfully to remember. After dinner I walked with him to the Santo, where I observed divers things that I have already men tioned in my observations of Padua : as an exorcisme performed by a Priest for the expelling of the divell out of a man possessed : a monument of one of our English Earles of Devon-shire : another of Petrus Bembus, &c. I departed from Padua about two of the clocke in the [p 292.] afternoone the same day, being conducted in my way by my kinde friend Mr. George Rooke, of whom I have made mention before in my discourse of Padua, and came to a solitary house thirteene miles beyond, about seven of the clocke in the evening, where I lay that night. When I was out of Padua I observed that there are no woods, Woods cut groves, shrubs, or any manner of trees growirig neare to °wn' the citie, as there were in former times. For all of them have beene cut downe within these few yeares. I noted a singular point of policy in this. For the Venetians who are the Lords of Padua, have caused this to be done, to the end that there shall be no place of shelter for the enemies to shroude themselves in, if any should happen to approach to the citie, with an intent to assault it. All c. c. II. 1 A CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Guasto, a that space which is so voyd of trees, is called the Guasto, waste plot. that igj the waste piot . not because it is altogether waste and unprofitable, as bearing no commodity at all. For it beareth great store of Melons and other fruites : but because there grow no trees there. fhis _ Guasto extended about some three miles in length, before I could come to any trees. The like Guastoes they have also about their other cities in Lombardy, &c. I departed from the solitary house about sixe of the clocke the next morning being Wednesday, and came to Vicenza about eight of the clock. The distance betwixt that house and Vicenza is five miles. [p- 293-1 My Observations of Vicenza, in Latin Vincentia and Vicetia. Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon Vicenza. Scaliger 's "O Acche pater, Ceres alma bonae bona numina pacis, verses on Jfj Quae patulos agros, qui juga curva tenes. uenxa. q^j^ rerumj quid amicitise cum Marte cruento Vobiscum? vestrum ut vexet utrumque furor? Pulchra racemiferos domitat Vicetia colles, Laetaque spicilegi jugera findit agri. Csedis amor, caedis germanae insana cupido : Nee patrius nato est tutus ab hoste cruor. Nusquam iter est : vastata jacent latrone protervo Ruscula, corruerunt ignibus hausta suis. Parce (nefas) scelerare manus Gens debita ccelo, Imbueque ignoto pectora digna deo. Divinae facies, regio ccelestis : at hujus In cceli medio tartara dira vigent. This city was built about three hundred twenty foure yeares before Christs incarnation, by the people called Euganei, whom Antenor the Trojan expulsed from that place, where he built Padua, and not long after it was much inlarged by those Gaules that were called Galli Senones, which followed Brennus in his warres. There OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA are two rivers that run through it, whose names are Bacchilio and Eretinus, whereof Bacchilio is the fairest, over the. which are built seven bridges, partly of stone and partly of timber. On the left hand of the bridge, which leadeth into the citie from Padua, I told sixteene pretty water-mils, which are very commodious to the Water mills. citie : it is thought to be about some foure miles in com- passe with the suburbes, being seated in a plaine at the foote of the hill Bericus, and built in that manner that it representeth the figure of a Scorpion. For it extendeth [p. 294.] it selfe much more in length then breadth. And about the West end it is so slender and narrow, that it resembleth the tayle of a Scorpion : it is invironed round about with a bricke wall, wherein are eight gates : many goodly Palaces and stately buildings, both publique and private I saw in this citie. In the first street as I came in from Padua I observed a very beautiful palace of a convenient heigth, in the front whereof I read this inscription : Has aedes quanta celeritate ignis consumpsit, tanta fere M. Antonius Walmarana Stephani Equitis clarissimi filius a fundamentis erexit anno M.D.XCIII. In the great market-place is erected a stately pillar of freestone of some twenty foote high with the winged Lion upon it. The Praetorium of the citie standeth at the north side of this market-place, which is a very sumptuous and magnificent building, but much inferiour to that of Padua. It is in length fifty sixe paces, and in breadth twenty two : at the higher end there is a Tribunall, above the which the winged Lyon is placed, richly gilt. Betwixt the Lyon and the Tribunall I read this inscription, written upon a ground of gold. Antonio Bernardo Juriscon. & patri optimo ob rempub. domi forisque faeliciter administratam, urbe pontibus, carcere, foro, templis exornata, Judaeis & noxiis ejectis, civitate in pristinam dignitatem studiis & Sanctis moribus restituta, monte Pietatis fundato, grata Vincentia posuit, M.CCCC. LXXXVI. The roofe of this Praetorium is hollow as that of Padua, having many yron beames that come athwart or a crosse from one side to the other, as that of Padua, The Pratorium. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [P. 295.] A marvellous slender tower. The monastery of the DominicanFriars. The outward roofe is covered with lead. In each side above is a faire gallery adorned with goodly pillars : like wise each side beneath hath a walke garnished with marveilous faire great pillars, sixe being compacted together in one, which doe make a faire arch : of which arches there are nine: one of these lower walkes is thoroughly finished, viz. the northerne by the market place : but not that in the South side; when I was in Vicenza, they were building very diligently every day to end the same: which without doubt will be a most beautifull walke when it is once brought to perfection, and it will yeelde a great ornament to the Praetorium. So then of all these faire walkes high and low, which belong to the Palace there are foure. Also there are two or three paire of stately staires that leade up to the hall. Neare unto this Palace there is a Tower of a marveilous heigth, as high (in my opinion) as that famous Tower of Cremona or St. Markes of Venice, but so exceeding slender that I never saw any Tower in all my life so high of such a slendernesse. There are foure very memorable things to be seene in this citie : the Monastery of the Dominican Fryers, the Palace of the Count or Earle Leonardus Walmarana, his Garden neare to the west gate that leadeth to Verona, and a famous Theater, built anno M.D.LXXXIIII. In the Monastery of the Dominican Friers is to be seene the thorny crowne of our Saviour Jesus Christ (as they say) which St. Lewes King of France, anno 1259. bestowed upon his brother at Paris, who hapned afterward to be Bishop of Vicenza, and a Dominican Frier. They report that he was the man that bestowed this crowne upon the Monastery. In my notes of Paris I have written something of this crown. For in Paris they say that they have the thorny crown : and here in Vicenza the Dominicans most constantly aflirme, that none hath it or can have it but themselves : eyther they must prove that Christ had two severall rsx>wns of thornes put upon his head (which is contrary to the history of the Evangelists) or else it must 4 OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA needes follow that one of these crownes is false. Never- thelesse I went thither to see it for my mindes sake, but I could not possibly obtaine the favour, though the Friers otherwise used me very courteously, affirming that it was never shewed to any man whatsoever but upon Corpus [p. 296.] Christi day, and that it was kept under three locks. One of the Monkes shewed me a very memorable thing in this Monastery. For he brought me into their kitchin, and The monastery told me, that where the chimney is, even where their *ttchen- meate is wont to be rosted and sodde, certain Arrians heretofore lived, their principall Master reading from a chaire that stood in the same place, the Arrian doctrine to his disciples and followers : but at last the holy Bishop Bartholomew (of whom I have already spoken) chaced them out of the Citie, and in their roome placed the Dominicans. The Palace of the Earle Leonardus Walmarana seemeth Earl to be a very magnificent building, if the inside be cor- Leonards respondent to the front next to the street. For that front """ is very beautifull, having much pointed diamond worke about the bottome, and about the toppe many prety histories curiously cut in stone. Under one history is written, Ars superat naturam : under another where grey hounds are most exquisitely carved, these two Greeke wordes are written KaXXtsTo? nrovwv, whereby is meant that hunting is the most generose and noble exercise of all others. Both these emblemes are made on the right hand as you go into the house. On the left hand this under a fine historicall worke. Ubi periculum, ibi festinandum. Againe over the dore this noble and most remarkable inscription is written very faire in stone : Maria Austria Augusta, Caroli Quinti, Maximiliani Secundi, Rodolphi Secundi Imperatorum filia, uxor, mater, a Philippo fratre Hispaniarum Reger Potentisimo, ad regendum Lusitanorum quondam Regum Imperium nuper partum, e Germania. accita per Italiam iter faciens, in his aedibus, quod ipsa ob veterem Austriacorum Principum erga hanc domum clientelam maxime volvit, cum Mar- CORYAT'S CRUDITIES garita Maximilianoque filiis Archiducibus, a Leonardo Walmarana Comite eodemque Philippi Regis Pension- ario, splendidissimo apparatu accepta fuit. Anno. M.D. LXXXI. IV. Kai. Octobris. [p- 297-] The third is the Garden of the foresaid Earle Leonardus, f arl ,, which is so delectable and pleasant that it seemeth a second garden Paradise. At the entrance of it over the first gate I read this inscription in Capital! letters. Civis. Amice. Advena. Qui loci amcenitate cupis oblectarier, Securus hue ingredere, Teque largiter recrea. Nullus intus canis, nullus Draco ; Nullus fake minaci Deus. Omnia sed tuta, benigneque Exposita. Sic volvit Comes Leonardus Walmarana Hortorum Dominus, Modestiam quod tuam & Con- tfnentiam Custodem fore fi- dat optimum. Anno M.D.XCII. After I came into the garden I turned on the right hand, and descended into a very pleasant and delicious walke, The second at the entrance whereof I read this second inscription made inscription. jn stQne over a fajre gate Si te imprudentem graviores Forte Hue usque insequutae sunt Curae, Eas velint nolint procul Nunc ut abeant facito. Hilaritati namque & Genio Pars haec potiss. dicata est. Againe, having passed through that gate and walke which was but short, I entred into a third walke of a notable length (for it was at the least two hundred paces 6 OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA long) beset with most delightfull trees on both sides. At the entrance of this walke there standeth another stately gate, over the which I read this third inscription, which The third indeede is most witty and elegant. inscription. Cedros hosce qui dempserit, [p. 298.] Floresve carpserit, Is Sacrilegus esto ; Vertumnoque & Pomonas, Queis sunt sacri, Pcenas lui to. In both sides of this walke I saw Cedar trees, Orange, Fruit trees. Lemmon, and Pome-citron trees, and fruits of all these kindes ripe. Amongst the rest I observed passing faire Citrons, which made my mouth even water upon them, and caused me almost to transgresse his law. One side of the walke is invironed with a goodly wall, by the which the fruits doe grow. About the middle of the walke there is built a prety convenient house, wherein tame connies and divers sorts of fine birds are kept, as Turtles, &c. In the middle of the garden is built a faire round roofe, supported with eight stately pillars of white stone, it is said that it shall be all covered with lead, but it was not when I was there. Also I saw a fine Labyrinth made A fine of boxe, but the dore was locked that I could not get in. l^3rinth °f And many lofty Pine trees, but some of them were so ox' nipped with the cold frost and snow that fell the winter before, as those were in the king of Frances garden at the Tuilleries, that they were even starved. Also for the more addition of pleasure to the place, there is a sweet river full of fine fish running by that fruitfull walke, wherehence is ministred store of water to moisten the garden in time of drougth. Finally to conclude, such is the affluence of all delights and pleasures in this garden, that it is the most peerelesse and incomparable plot for the quantity that ever I saw. The fourth and last memorable thing of this City is a The Theatre stately faire Theater, which was built by certaine Scholars °fVtcenza- 7 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES in the yeare M.D.lxxxiiii. that were called Academici Olympici, but why so called I know not. It hath an Orchestra made in it according to the imitation of the [p. 299.] Roman Orchestraes, which is at the lower end of the degrees, or (as I may more properly terme them) benches or seates, whereof there are fourteene, each above another, compassing something more then halfe the Theater, and contrived in the fashion of an halfe Moone. In that Orchestra none sit but Noble and eminent persons. He that shewed me this Theater told me that the Orchestra and fourteen benches would containe about some three thousand persons. The Scene also is a very faire and beautifull place to behold. In this Theater was acted a play for many yeares since with divers goodly shewes before William Gonzaga Duke of Mantua, father to the present Duke Vincentius Gonzaga. Againe, afterward certaine Moscovite Ambassadors that came from Rome, were very honourably entertained in this Theater with musicke and a banquet. And after them certaine young Noblemen of that farre remote region in the East called Japan or Japona, being descended of the bloud royall of the Country, were received here with great state, at what time Livius Pajellus a singular Orator pronounced an eloquent Oration in praise of them. But one of the latest great shewes that was made here was presented before the forenamed that famous Earle Leonardus Walmarana, in the yeare 1585. For at that time the Tragedy of Sophocles, which is intituled Oedipus, was most excellendy acted in this Theater. The history of the acting whereof is finely painted in the Court wal at the very entrance to the Theater. Over the three dores of which Court I read these three inscriptions, written in Capitall letters. This over the first. Olympicis Excitamento. This over the second. Civibus Oblectamento. And this over the third. Patriae ornamento. MuscoviteAmbassadors entertained.Japanesenoblemen. Inscription in the Theatre. OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA In the front of the Scene, directly opposite to the [p. 300.] Orchestra, this is written : Virtuti ac Genio Olympicorum Academia Theatrum hoc a. funda- mentis erexit, Anno M. D. LXXX. IIII Andrea Palladio Architecto. Without the City also are two most stately and goodly things to be seene. Whereof the first is a very magnificent arch built about the end of the City, southward as you goe up to the hill Bericus. The other is the Palace of The palace of the Earle Odoricus Capra. The arch certainly is a very Earl0donc- sumptuous monument being of a lofty heigth, and sup ported with foure portly marble pillars, two on one side, and as many on the other. At the top standeth the winged Lyon in white stone, and at both the endes of the toppe two statues also of white stone are erected. In the front of the outside of the arch, this is written under the Lyon. Deiparae Virgini Berici Montis Jacobus Bragadeno Am- bross. F. Praef. Religionis & urbis amantiss. D. M. D. XCV. After I was entred within this arch, I ascended a mar- Marvellous vailous high paire of staires, much higher then those that hi&h stam- I have mentioned in my description of Lyons. For they are of that heigth that they will make a weake body utterly weary before he can attaine to the toppe. For they con- taine no lesse then a hundred and fifty greeses. And you must ascend by five greeses at a place till you come to the toppe, the severall partitions being in number thirty. Truly they are the highest staires that ever I trode in my life out of a Church or house. At the left hand of the [p. 301.] CORYAT'S CRUDITIES ascent a little after I was entred within the arch, I read this inscription in a stony pillar. Quis ascendet in montem sanctum tuum? In another pillar on the right hand, this: Innocens manibus & mundo corde. After I was come almost to the toppe, I found this inscription in a stony pillar on the left hand. Franciscus Bernardinus Saracenus Scalas fecit ex stipe publice privatimque Collata, & viam reliquam ad Mariae templum usque silice promovit. cId lac. And this inscription in another stony pillar on the right hand. Hospes si properas, Paulum sistito, Urbis, collium, fluminum, Agrorum, Alpium aspectu Laborem lenito. Abi. perge pius, Dei matrem Virginem Salutato. Stratae viae commodum Piis precibus rependito. TheTempleof After I had ascended those staires I went to the Temple 'foftr&n 0f the Virgin Mary, seated upon the toppe of the hil, and about a mile distant from the City. All the Monkes that dwell here are meerely lay-men. In the Moneth of August when I was there, this Monastery was exceedingly frequented with people, and so it is every yeare in the same Moneth. For they hold this opinion and doe very OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA confidently maintayne it, that by the prayers which godly [p. 302.] people doe make in the Church of that Monastery that Moneth, one soule shall be redeemed out of Purgatory forsooth. Infinite are the votive tables that I saw hanged about the walles of this Church. I saw many indeede at the Altar where our Lady is worshipped at the Arsenal, and in other places of Venice, but never a quarter so many in one place as here. I walked into the Cloyster of the Monks, and into a high gallery at the toppe of the Monas tery, where they have a passing sweet prospect. Surely they dwell in as convenient a place for a retired life as any I saw in Italy, nay none comparable to it. They say that many miracles are shewed in this Monastery. The other memorable thing without the City, is the sumptuous Palace of the above named Earle Odoricus Capra, which is a little mile distant from the City. It is built upon a prety eminent hillocke, and is round (in which respect it is called in the Italian Rotonda) having foure very beautifull fronts, which doe answere the foure parts of the world. At the East front as I ascended to The arms of the house, I saw three white statues erected, and under ""'"' them the picture of a blacke Goate which is his armes. Under the which I read this. Scriptum Memoriae perpetuae Mandans haec Dum sustinet & abstinet. At the West end under another scutchin this is written. Qui aedes has arctissimo Primogeniturae gradui Subjecit. At the North side this under a third scutchin. Una cum omnibus censibus, Agris, vallibus, & collibus Ultra, viam magnam. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES fp. 303.] In the South side this under the fourth scutchin. Marius Capra Gabrielis F. Every front hath sixe most stately great pillars, and two paire of staires to ascend to the same, each contayning eighteene faire greeses. The roofe of the house is round, and very pretily adorned partly with curious pictures, and partly with statues, which worke was contrived by the An open roof, elegant pensill of Alexander Magantia. Also the roofe is open for the raine to descend into a very convenient place made of purpose in the hall for the receiving thereof. In one of the higher chambers there is the fairest chimney for clavy and jeames that ever I saw, saving that of the King of France at his Palace of Fountaine Beleau before mentioned. For it was made of an extraordinary fine coloured marble, beautified with faire veines of divers colours. This marble came from Verona. In another chamber I saw a clavy and jeames of touch stone, and a A stately table boord of the same : also there is a stately celler under cellar. tjje paiacej the roofe whereof is vaulted. At the farther end of this cellar as you go forth of it into a faire vineyard, this impresse is written over the dore in great letters. Antrum non Cumaeum Neque Homericum videbis, Sed Bacchi ; Hospes ingredere, Laetior abibis ; But I found not the words of the inscription true ; for I went not out more merily then I came in, because the cellarer had not the honestie to bestowe as much as one draught of his wine upon me. The Bishop's \ was at the Palace of the Bishop of Vicenza whose Palace. name js Dionysius Delphinus. In this Palace is the towne prison. This City was much annqied by the army of that [p. 304.] mercilesse Barbarian Attila, with many other famous cities OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA of Italy, after hee came out of his country of Scythia to spoyle the Europaean Cities. Also the Emperour Fredericke the second besieged it about the year a thousand two hundred and forty, and afterward having entred it by force of armes, he defaced a great part of it with the furie of the fire. For the sight of most of these notable things that I enjoyed in this faire citie, I doe acknowledge my self exceedingly beholding to two Italian yong Gentlemen Two courteous that were Vicentines borne, whose names were Thomas taJfn de Spanivellis, and Joannes Nicoletis; especially to one of them, who kept me company almost all that day that I spent there, and conducted me from place to place till he had shewed me all the principall things of the citie. For surely many Italians are passing courteous and kinde towards strangers, of whose humanitie I made triall in divers other cities in Italie, as Padua, Venice, Verona, Brixia, Bergomo, &c. Therefore I will ever magnifie and extoll the Italian for as courteous a man to a stranger as any man whatsoever in Christendome. For I have had a little experience in my travels of some of every principall nation of Christendome. The first that converted this Citie from Paganisme to Christianitie, was Prosdocimus that preached the Gospell first at Padua, as I have before mentioned. The Vicentines were first subject to the Signiorie of Venice about the yeare 1404. at what time they submitted themselves of their own accord to the Venetians. That day that I came forth of Vicenza, being Thursday and the eleventh day of August, I saw a franticke and A frantic lunaticke fellow runne up and downe the citie with a lmattc- gowne about him, who kept a very furious stirre, and drew many people about him. The West gate of the Citie that leadeth to Verona, hath a very lofty Towre of a goodly heigth, and without [p. 3°5-l the same on the left hand, I saw a marvailous sumptuous gate made of free-stone, and newly built, but not fully finished. All the front is contrived with pointed diamond 13 Vicenza. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES worke. At that place there is nothing at all built but only this gate. This charge me thinkes might have beene well saved, for it serves for no other purpose but onely for a beautifull entrance into a faire meadow. Vkenxa I will now conclude my observations of Vicenza with famous for two memorable Italian sayings, the one of the Counts, and "nigh™ Knights of Vicenza, which is this : Quanti ha. Venetia ponti e Gondolieri, Tanti ha. Vicenza Conti e Cavallieri. That is, looke how many bridges and Gondoleers Venice doth yeeld, so many Counts, and Knights doth Vicenza. The wine of The other, of the wine of Vicenza, which is in a manner proverbially spoken of, as other commodities are of other Italian cities, viz. Vin Vicentin, Pan Paduan. Tripe Trevizan. Putana Venetian. That is, The Wine of Vicenza, The Bread of Padua. The Tripes of Treviza. The Cortezans of Venice Thus much of Vicenza. Departed from Vicenza about tenne a clocke in the morning, the eleventh day of August being Thursday, and came to Verona the next day about nine of the clocke in the morning : The things that I observed bewixt Armed Vicenza and Verona are these. Most of the horsemen Tetwen that * met were freshed with muskets ready charged, Vicenza and ant^ touch-boxes hanging by their sides full of Gunpowder, Verona. together with little pouches full of bullets; which is a tp- 306.] thing so commonly used in most places of Italie, that a man shall scarce finde a horseman in any place riding without them. I heard that this is the reason of it: because the people of the country are so given to villainies, 14 I FROM VICENZA TO VERONA that they will rob, rifle, and murder passengers, if they are not sufficiently provided to defend themselves against them. At every miles end by the way for the space of tenne or twelve miles, I saw certaine prety stony pillars* Pillars erected erected by the high way side, such as we call in Latin btheway"tie- cippos, whereof some had Inscriptions, some had not, which I suppose were set up for many yeares since, even in the time of the Roman Monarchic to limit their miles. whereupon many auncient Latin authors whensoever they would mention a place of Italie distant certaine miles from a citie, would say, decimo &c lapide ab urbe distat. Some of the Inscriptions of these pillars were so auncient and even eaten out with time, that I could hardly reade above two or three letters of them : Perhaps they were set up before, or not long after, Christs incarnation. Againe some had crosses on them as being erected by Christians. On the right hand as I travelled to Verona, I saw three very stately and strong castels upon hils, adorned with goodly battlements, &c. whereof one, which stood almost in the middle way betwixt Vicenza and Verona, was built by the Princely familie of the Scaligers of Verona, as a certaine grave Gentleman tolde me that I overtooke riding upon the way, who discoursed with me very familiarly of many matters in Latin : the same castle is now possessed by the noble Contarens of Venice. The territories of Vicenza and Verona doe confine and meete together about a place called Turre, which is but Turre. one solitarie inne, so called because the signe thereof is a tower. This is thirteene miles beyond Vicenza. About [p. 307.] nine miles on this side Verona I sawe a most magnificent Palace not about half a mile distant from the way on the left hand. I was told that it belonged to a Venetian Clarissimo, called Peter Gritti. That day about five of the clocke in the afternoone A violent there fell a marvailous violent showre after I was past shmer- about some two miles beyond Villa nova, which is seven- teene miles from Vicenza, that continued almost for the ?These kinde of pillars Plutarch doth call "atr< west end of the city where cattell are sold; whereof I 19 • by Athenians. [p. 312.] CORYAT'S CRUDITIES have expressed a picture in this place, according to the forme of it, as it flourished in the time of the Roman Monarchy. This word Amphitheater is derived from these two Greeke words a/j.r poore folkes to sell wine in, and other necessaries. After I had exactly viewed all the outward parts, I was admitted into the inside by a fellow that gets his living altogether by shewing the same to strangers, -ad as soone as I came in, 1 was driven into great admiration. For I saw so many things as will make a stranger not a little wonder. There I observed the seates, or benches, made of redde marble, incompassing Benches of red the cavea, or plaine within it round about, and ascending mari'e- by degrees one above another to the very toppe, which are in number forty two : but the greatest part of the marble of these benches hath beene (to the great blemish of the work) carried away for many yeares since by those [p. 3 15. J barbarous people that have much eclipsed the glorious beauty of this building. Yet the gentlemen of Verona have within these few yeares something repayred it againe. For they have bestowed so great charges in mending them on both sides with new marble benches correspondent to the former, that those on the right hand cost them three score thousand crownes, and those on the left sixe thou sand, as a Gentleman of Verona told me that shewed me the particulars of the Amphitheater. These threescore Great charges and sixe thousand crownes being not the fiftieth part of for mendml- the charge (as I thinke) that the whole building would cost, were it now to be built from the foundation, may give a man some conjecture what an infinite and excessive masse of money it cost in those dayes when it was first founded, though I beleeve their building was then much cheaper then now. Also these Gentlemen of Verona doe daily beautifie it with new addition of marble benches, because they have oftentimes great shewes exhibited here to the people upon festivall dayes, as running at Tilt, and other noble exercises, especially upon their Carnivall day, which is observed amongst them in the same manner as our Shrove-tuesday with us in England, being called Carnivall from the two Latin words, Caro and Vale, that is, farewell flesh, because after that day they eate no more flesh till Easter. These foresaid two and forty benches have in 23 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The benches former times contained three and twenty thousand people contained that were the spectators of the games played therein, a 23,°°° foote and halfe and no more being limited to every] pe°p particular person. The higher bench is esteemed a hun dred fourescore and three pearches in compasse, and that in the middle, namely the one and twentieth, a hundred and two and forty. Every pearch being ten foote long. Likewise from north to south it is thought to be three hundred and threescore foote long : and from east to west three hundred and forty foote broad. All that open and" [p. 316.] void space at the toppe was wont to be covered over wholly with curtaynes at the time of their publique games, to the end to keepe off the scorching heate of the sunne, Tjjhifh otherwise would very much annoy the people. The galleries in the inside are contrived after a very strange manner, not unlike unto Labyrinths. For there are three degrees of them vaulted one above another, through the which both those that were above upon the benches did descend to goe forth of the roome, and they beneath' The rooms for ascended to their seates. Also I observed certaine roomes the easts. where the beasts were kept, with whom the Gladiatores were to fight. These roomes have at one end certaine little open places to let in the aire for the refreshing of the beasts, such as we call in Latin spiracula. The cavea or greene plaine in the middle is made in the forme of an egge, sharpe at the ends, and broade at the sides, very like to a pond that I have seene in one of Sir Francis Carewes gardens in Middlesex : and it is in length nine & thirty pearches, in bredth two and twenty and halfe. For I did exactly observe the length and bredth of it. Now it is divided in the very middest by a certaine kind of pale, like to that of our Tilt-yard at Whitehall, where the Venetian Gentlemen and Nobleman of Verona doe sometimes encounter at justs and tornaments. In the middest of this plaine divers spectacles and games were wont to be shewed in former times to the people, whereof some con- Bloody fights, sisted especially of a most bloudy kind of fight betwixt men and beasts, which was performed by their Gladiatores. 24 Fold out OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA For according to the auncient custome of the Romans certaine enormous malefactors that had committed some capital crimes, being condemned to fight for their lives with wilde beasts^ were in this place and such other (whereof Rome had many, as the Circus maximus, &c.) exposed with their swordes and targets, and such other weapons to the fury of savage beasts, as Lyons, Beares, Tigres, &c. if fortune favoured them so well that they slew [p. 317.] those beasts, then both their lives were saved, and also they had some reward bestowed upon them, which was commonly called brabium, in token of their victory. But if they were slaine by the beasts, it was esteemed as a just recompence for their wicked deserts. But to conclude this discription of the Amphitheater of Verona, it is a worke of such admirable magnificence that as I never saw the like before, so I thinke in al my future travels (which I deter mine God willing to undertake hereafter both in Christen dome and Paganisme) I shall never see a fairer. Thus much concerning the Amphitheater. ALso I saw the rudera of an auncient Theater which was An ancient a distinct building from the foresaid Amphitheater, theatre- upon a hill on the farther side of the Athesis, neare to the gardens of the Dominican Friers. The Palace which doth now belong to the Capitano, was The Palace of heretofore the habitation of the Princely Scaligers : at the Verma- left hand of the porch whereof, which is a very magnificent and stately building, are three very faire arches made with free stone, and adorned with diamond worke. In the front of this building which is newly built, & looketh towards that goodly walke where there is a great meeting of Gentle men and Merchants twise a day, this inscription is written over a dore betwixt two scutchins. Regia hujus superi- orem utramque partem longa, incuria, ruinam ita minitan- tem, ut ftene reparationis desperationem cunctis adferret, Justinianus Contarenus Praetor, Franciscus Priulus Prae- fectus ab extremo vindicarunt occasu, & in longe splendi- diorem faciem pristina. restituerunt c I o. I o. c I I. 25 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Againe, betwixt t\vo other dores neare unto this, there is written this also over the scutchins in the same front. Inscriptions in Virtuti & Honori the Palace. juiii Contareni Praetoris, & Bernardi Marcelli Praefecti, quorum singularis prudentia ut in regenda. urbe mirifice [p. 318.] emicuit : sic in maxima rerum perturbatione bellicis appa- ratibus vacando, amborum vigilantia, celeritas, diligentia fuit suspicienda. c I o. I o. cvi. Besides in the inside of the Palace I read this inscription written in a new wall that includeth part of the court betwixt two golden scutchins over the dore. Atrii hujus quod conficiendum supererat, ne suo ornamento destitutum squaleret, Justinianus Contarenus Praetor, & Daniel Del- phinus Praefectus, unanimes omni cultu perfectum D. M. d. cm. In another wall of the court right opposite unto this, many Noblemens armes are very gallantly painted, amongst the rest the spread-Eagle about the toppe of the wall, under which this is written. Aquilae bicipitis pectori Justinianorum prisci stemmatis quae cernis affixa insignia. Mapheus Justinianus dum pro Veronensibus contra Bebra- censes strenue pugnat, parto hostium vexillo haec sibi bellica, virtute vendicavit, M. C C. L. Great store of \n a lower roome which is on the right hand of the court as you come in from the street, I observed great store of munition, especially great pieces of Ordinance upon wheeles, and lesser, as sakers, &c. that roome being wholly replenished with furniture for war-fare. The Piazza. The Piazza or the publike walke without the Palace is a faire place, paved al with bricke. In length it is three score and seven paces : in bredth five and forty. And it is on every side inclosed with goodly buildings. At the East with the Praetors Palace, at the West with a certaine goodly auncient building that serveth for publique uses. At the South with the Praefectus Palace, at the North with the Councell house, which is a very faire building, having foure beautifull windowes in the front, and a goodly walke 26 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA adorned with nine stately pillars of blew and porphyrie marble that make eight faire arches. Over the gate of the Councell house this inscription is written above two golden scutchins: Ubique simul. [p. 319.J And againe, this under the same in golden letters upon an azure ground. pro summa fide Summus amor, M. D. XCII. Also the higher part of the front is garnished with five Five beautiful beautiful marble statues of certaine famous learned men statues- borne in this noble City, who with the excellent monu ments of their wit have much ennobled their Country. The first is of Marcus Vitruvius, who hath written ten bookes of Architecture, being next to the Palace wall of the Praetor. Next to him, Valerius Catullus the Poet. The third Caius Plinius the Historiographer. The fourth .iEmylius Macer the Poet that wrote certaine poems of hearbes. The last, Cornelius Nepos an eloquent Poet in the time of Cicero. Also there is another of Hieronymus Fracastorius, erected over a stately arch that standeth at the west end of the Councell house. I saw the monuments of two of the noble Scaligers of Monuments of Verona in a little Churchyard, adjoyning to the Church the Scaliieri- called Maria Antiqua, but a little way distant from that Palace, where they lived in former times, which now belongeth to the Venetian Capitano, as I have before said. The fairest whereof is that of Mastinus Scaliger, standing at one corner of the Churchyard, which is such an exceed ing sumptuous Mausoleum that I saw not the like in Italy. It is supported with sixe stately pillars of porphyrie marble, without the which are sixe sumptuous pillars more very curiously wrought with prety works and borders. At the toppe of which outward pillars are certaine little pinnacles, each whereof sustaineth an image of an armed man made in alabaster. Also above those sixe pillars there is a marvailous rich worke made of alabaster, whereon 27 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [P. 320.] Mastinus Scaliger. MagnusScaliger. The possessors of Verona. there stand more images very .exquisitely carved. Upon the toppe of all, even upon a little pinnacle standeth the statue of Mastinus Scaliger himselfe on horsebacke made of alabaster. It doth very neare represent the living shape of him. For it is said that it was made in his life time. In the lower part of the monument this Epitaph is written. SCaligera de gente fui, celebrique ferebar Nomine Mastinus, claras dominabar in urbes. Me Dominum Verona suum, me Brixia vidit, Parmaque cum Luca, cum Feltro Marchia tota. Jura dabam populis aequo libramine nostris Omnibus, & fidei, & Christi, sine sorde secutor. Occubui primo post annos mille trecentos Et decies quinque, heu, lux ibat tertia Juni. The other monument is of Canis Grandis, or Magnus Scaliger, which standeth in another corner of the same Churchyard right opposite unto this, the same being a very magnificent thing adorned with many pillars and statues of marble, but something inferiour to this. There also is this Epitaph. SI Canis hic grandis ingentia facta peregit, Marchia testis adest quam saevo Marte subegit, Scaligeram qui laude domum super astra tulisset, Majores si Parca dies infida tulisset : Hunc Julii geminata dies undena peremit, Jam lapsis septem quater annis mille trecentis. Also there is a third monument of another Scaliger Prince, called Canis Signorius ; which is erected direcdy over the Church dore, the Epitaph whereof I could not perfectly reade. This City in the time of the Roman Monarchy was a long time subject to the Romans. Afterward it was pos sessed by the Ostrogothes, and after them by the Longobardes, whose first King Alboinus kept his Court here. At last they gave place to the successors of Carolus Magnus, as Pipin his sonne, Prince Berengarius and 28 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA others, that kept their Court here. After them, it came [p. 321-] into the hands of the Tyrant Ezzelinus : who being again dispossessed, these Scaliger Princes (of whom I have before spoken) and others of the same family had the soveraigne dominion of this City for the space of two hundred yeares, till Joannes Galeatius Viscount of Milan abrogated their governement in the time of Antonius Signorius Scaliger about the yeare 1396. After which time the said Galea tius swayed Verona eighteene yeares. But as soone as he was dead, one of the Scaligers recovered it againe. The same being made away with poyson, Francis Carrarius enjoyed the Principality halfe a yeare. But the Venetians being exasperated against him for Scaliger's unnaturall death, deposed him againe about the yeare 1405. and governed the same till the yeare 1509. Then it was seven yeares subject to the Emperour Maximilian, who in the yeare 1517. restored it to the Venetians, that have con tinually from that time to this present day enjoyed the possession thereof. The principall market place of the City is very faire, The principal which I take occasion to mention by reason of a notable mar e *"" thing that I observed there tending to idolatry. For on the front of a faire house adjoining to this market place, there standeth the image of the virgin Mary, made in white marble with Christ in one arme, and a booke in one of her hands. Under the which this superstitious inscrip tion is written concerning the adoration of the same image. Quisquis Sacram hanc B. M. Imaginem Sole occidente Comprecatus fuerit, Huic Centum dies Ex ea, pcenitentia. Quam acturus erat, Indulgentur. [p. 322.] Francisco Veritate Com. Praetore. cId.Id.c.vH. 29 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES A 'JttJe above this inscription this is written in gold letters. Diplomate Pauli V. Pontificis Maxi. Againe on the right hand of the image this. Mariae Quae est maxima, Virgini, Christi matri, Auxiliatrici, Conservatrici, Placidae, propitiae, secundae, Quam quotidie stata. hora Prostrati homines adoranto ; Incorporati omnes negociatores Stipe collata Signum hoc marmoreum, P. Paulo Malaspina Praet. Inchoatum Vincentio Manuello Juriscon. Praef. Perfectum Poni curaverunt Reverendissimi Joannes Baptista Arnoldus, Joannes Baptista Tachetus, Joannes Pona, Franciscus Lutiascus, Natalis Roccaius, Laurentius Tudeschinus, clo.Io.c.vii. Cal. Augusti. Also I saw about the middle of the same market place A pleasant a marvailous pleasant fountaine, adorned with a very fountain. ancient marble image, wearing a crowne upon her head; that is said to be a representation of Verona. From divers spouts of this statue, jugis aquae fons doth incessantly flow. Besides, at the higher end of this market place there is erected a very stately marble pillar with the winged Lyon advanced upon it. And in a Gentlemans house of the City but a little way from that, I saw a very beautifull paire of winding stayres, made by that singular architect Andreas [p. 323.] Palladius, which by reason of the curious workemanship thereof are much shewed to strangers. There are some Jewes in this city, though not so many as in Venice or Padua, who are shut up from the Christians 30 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA in their Ghetto by three gates ; upon one whereof, which The Ghetto of standeth at one end of their street, I read this inscription. the Jem- Auctore Patre nostro piissimo Augustino Valerio Car- dinali optimo, Judaei hunc in locum publico Municipum Principisque decreto conclusi sunt : Julio Caesare Nogarola Comite Antonio Fontanelo Jurisconsulto Gratia-Deo Ram- baldo Cur. clo.lo.lc. Catharino Zeno Praetore, Petro Mauroceno Praefecto. At another end is erected another gate right opposite unto this, at the toppe whereof this is written. Religionis ergo septum hoc ex Decurionum placito Senatusque Veneti authoritate decretum optimo savente Deo ac Augustino Valerio Cardinali amplissimo Pastoralibus officiis, adjuvante Catharino Zeno Praetore, Mauroceno Praefecto. Julii Caesaris Nogarolae Com. M. Antoni Fontaneli I c. Gratia-Dei Rambaldi Praesidum cura. perfectum conspicitur, clo.Io.Ic. The buildings of this city, especially those that belong The buildings to the Gentlemen, are very faire, being for the most part °*te "'?' built with bricke : though I have seene some of the Gentlemens houses built with passing faire stone, and richly adorned with many goodly marble pillars ; the pen- tices or eavisses of their houses being much broader then I have observed in other cities. Also many of their outward walles and their chimneys are very fairely painted, which giveth great ornament to their houses. I observed one Palace amongst the rest beautified with a passing faire front, which was contrived wholy with pointed diamond worke: The like whereof I have before mentioned both in one of the outward bulwarks of the castle of Milan, & in the east front of the Duke of Venices Palace. But that diamond worke was made only in a little part of each front, [p- 324-l even about the lower end. But this whole front was adorned with it from the bottome to the very toppe, which yeelded admirable grace to the edifice. In another front of one of their houses I read this pro- phesie of Christ, written under the picture of Sybilla Tyburtina. Virgo concipiet. The Cathedral I was in their Domo, which is their Cathedral Church Church. 31 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The Bishop of Verona. [P- 325-1 Eupropius first preached the gospel in Verona. dedicated to our Lady ; a very auncient and goodly build ing, wherein are shewed some notable monuments. But that which is most of all esteemed and reverenced of the Citizens, is the Sepulchre of Pope Lucius the third of that name, which I saw. This Lucius died in Verona, Anno MCLxxxv. when he came thither to proclaime a genmll Councell, Urban the third being substituted in his place. But that elegant Epitaph which is written upon his tomb I did not observe, being afterward bestowed upon me by a friend of mine, even this : Luca dedit lucem tibi Luci, Pontificatum Ostia, Papatum Roma, Verona mori. Imo Verona dedit tibi verb vivere, Roma Exilium, curas Ostia, Luca mori. The fairest Organs that I saw in Italy or in any other country, are in this Domo. The name of him that was Bishop of Verona when I was there, was Albertus Valerius, being successor to Augustinus Valerius, that was afterward made Cardinal. His Palace is neare to the Domo, the front whereof is very faire, having foure stately pillars of marble at the entrance, which are supported with two great square bases of the like marble, in one whereof this inscription is written : Probis ImprobisquePar aditus ; DisparExitus. This city first received the Gospell by the preaching of Eupropius, who was sent thither from Rome by Saint Peter. Since which time they have had many godly and learned Bishops, whereof thirty sixe have bin canonized for Saints, by reason of the great holinesse of their lives. The chiefest of them all being Saint Zeno, the numen tutelare or protector of Verona, who was a godly Bishop of this citie, and a faithfull Martyr of Christ, who suffered 32 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA in the seventh persecution of the Church under the Emperour Decius, unto whom King Pipin above saide built a very sumptuous Church at the West end of the Citie, which is beautified with many goodly ornaments. In the front thereof about the entrance of the same many religious histories are presented in Alabaster. Also the first gate is a worke of great sumptuousnesse, being decked with many pretty little peeces of brasse, wherein many notable histories of the bible are passing curiously de scribed : likewise at the sides of this gate there are carved two exceeding great Lyons in red Marble, that sustaine two goodly pillars. Within the Church there is an extra ordinary great front made of porphyrie. In a low crypta or vault of this Church I saw the monument of Saint Monument of Zeno, & againe above neare to the quire his statue made ""' in stone with a miter upon, his head. He is pourtrayed laughing and looking very pleasantly, in his left hand he held a reeden rod, the top whereof was pretily made with bone finely wrought, which indeed was nothing else but the top of his Crosier : at the ende hanged a counterfeited Trowte, in token that hee was much delighted in taking of Trowtes, as a Benedictine Monke tolde me. There I read this inscription, Anno Dom. trecentessimo primo Beatus Zeno moritur duodecima Aprilis. I saw the monument of King Pipin whom I have before Monument of mentioned, the sonne of Carolus Magnus, in a little Cell ms '*"n adjoyning to this Church ; this sepulchre is supported with foure prety pillars of marble. All strangers that are admitted to the sight of this tombe,doe first enter by a dore [p. 326.] that is most commonly locked, into a greene rude Court, and so descend by a paire of staires of some tenne or twelve greeses. There is great store of water oftentimes hard by the monument issuing out of the spring in the same place, as there was when I was there, which certaine Monkes tolde me is of great vertue to cure sundry diseases. This King dyed in Milan (as I have before said in my description thereof) but his body was afterward removed hither, and interred in this place, according to his owne c.c. 11. 33 c CORYAT'S CRUDITIES A marble tabernacle. Church of S. Anastasia. [P- 327-] request in his death-bed. For Pipin so dearely loved Verona, that he kept his royall Court sometimes therein. In the quire of this Church I observed an admirable faire marble tabernacle that belongeth to the Benedictine Monks, the fairest that ever I saw made of marble. It is beautified with two exceeding rich marble pillars, which although they are but little, yet by reason of the admirable curiosity of the worke formed therein by the hand of Dame Nature her selfe, and distinguished with passing variety of fine colours ; they are esteemed so precious, that for them and the tabernacle it selfe a certaine Gendeman of Venice offered three thousand crownes, as one of the Monkes told me. I was in the Church of Saint Anastasia that belongeth to the Dominican Fryers, a building of notable magnifi cence. In the body of the Church I observed twelve exceeding huge pillars of marble which were the greatest that ever I saw, even greater then those two famous pillars of Phrygian marble in Saint Markes place in Venice, neare to the Adriatique gulfe, which I have before mentioned in my description of Venice. Sixe of these stand in one side of the Church, and as many in another. At one side of the Church I saw a marvailous faire monument of Janus Fregosius Prince of Genua, adorned with foure most sumptuous pillars of Alabaster, and an excellent image of himselfe made of the same matter, with a trunchion in his hand, and a crested helmet upon his head. At the top of the monument this epitaph is written in Touchstone. Deo Opt. Maxi. Janus Fregosius Ligurum Princeps, Ac Venetae reipub : terrestrium copiarum Omnium Praefectus, ubi fortissimi Ducis officia Domi forisque praestitisset ; Sac. H. T. F. I. Hercules Alius paternae pietatis memor. F. I observed foure passing beautifull pillars of a flesh- coloured marble at one of the Altars of the body of this Church, which are estimated at three hundred crownes a peece, 34 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA In the Monastery of the Olivetan Benedictine Monkes which are attyred with white vailes made of a kinde of Say and copes of the same, I saw a most sumptuous paire of Sumptuous Organs, and a very admirable workemanship in certaine orians- wainescot pillars in their closet, where their priest did put on his roabes for the celebration of masse. Also I visited the Monastry of the Bartholomaean Monkes seated upon a hill on the farther side of the Athesis, and I observed their fountaines which they told me are of singular efficacie for the curing of certaine infirmities. I was admitted into the most magnificent Palace of Palace of Count Augustinus Justus, but not without some favour. /**' . — ,, T ° J . , ' . . . . . . . _ Augustmus 1 here 1 saw stones with very ancient inscriptions, which I justus. could not reade by reason of the antiquitie of them. Also I was shewed a certaine higher roome in the Palace which was a place of that singular glory, that I saw not the like in any private house of Italy, the beauty thereof consisting especially of pictures which hanged round about the roome, beeing in number one hundred fifty nine, and such as repre sented some of the worthiest and most eminent persons of the world in divers ages. There I saw many of the Roman Emperours most exquisitely painted, and some of the [P- 3 28.] German Emperors, and Kings of Spaine : also Kings of Mr/raits France : many Dukes of Venice, and divers Popes : of our English Kings but one, and that was King Henry the eighth. But the Italian painter erred, for the picture more truely represented Henry the seventh, then H. the eighth. There I saw the three famous Scaligers of Verona, whom I have before mentioned, Mastinus, Grandis Canis, and Canis Signorius ; the pictures of sixe of the most Six Sreat renowned great Turkes. Of Totylas King of the Gothes. Of Alchitrof King of Ethiopia. Of Muleamet Scirisso King of Marocco. Of Scanderbeg. Of David de Degli Abissini the present Presbyter John. Of Tam- berlan. Of Gattamelita the Generall of the Venetians land forces. Of Sinan Bascia a famous Captaine of the great Turke, and many other fine pictures representing 35 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES persons of both sexes that will much delight a curious traveller. Therefore I counsell thee whatsoever thou art that meanest in thy travels to see Verona, to make meanes to bee admitted into the Palace of Count Augustinus Justus, and to see this noble and glorious roome before thou dost come forth of it : for many English gentlemen have seene it, as the Italian told me that shewed it to me. The Palace Also the Italian shewed me his garden, which is a gar en' second Paradise, and a passing delectable place of solace, beautified with many curious knots, fruites of divers sorts and two rowes of lofty Cypresse trees, three and thirty in a ranke. Besides his walkes at the toppe of the garden a little under St. Peters Castle, are as pleasant as the heart of man can wish ; being decked with excellent fruites, as Figges, Oranges, Apricockes, and with Cypresse trees. In one of these walkes is a delicate litle refectory : at one side whereof there is a curious artificiall rocke, adorned with many fine devices, as scollop shels, and great variety of other prety shels of fishes brought from Cyprus : and mosse groweth upon the same as if it were a naturall rocke. [p. 329.J This place certainely is contrived with as admirable curio sity as ever I saw, and moystened with delicate springs and fountaines conveighed into the same by leaden pipes. 1 have seene in England one place something like to this, even in one of the gardens of that noble knight Sir Francis Carew of Middlesex, who hath one most excellent rocke there framed all by arte, and beautified with many elegant conceits, notwithstanding it is somewhat inferiour unto this. Againe in another walke I saw his fine chappell, wherein his Chaplaine doth often say Masse to him. A mournful \ observed a very mournefull shew performed by spectace. Monkes in Verona. For I saw eighteene couples of them accompany a corse of one of their Fraternity to Church, being attired with blacke buckram vailes, and marked with the signe of the starre on the left side of their breasts, girt with a blacke girdle, their heads covered with a blacke hood that came over all their shoulders, and hid all their face. Before their eyes were made two holes to looke out : 36 OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA each of them carryed a burning candle in his hand of virgin wax, and some of them three candles, and there was put into every candle two peeces of their little tin money called gazets. This citie was besieged by the Emperour Charlemaine The Emperor shortly after the battell betwixt him and Desiderius the Charlema^- last King of the Longobardes neare the citie of Vercellis, whereof I have before made mention. At what time Adalgisius the sonne of the said Desiderius having escaped by flight from the foresaid battell, fortified himselfe herein together with Queene Berta the Wife of Carolomannus, who was the eldest brother of the Emperour Charlemaine. But Charlemaine without any long siege got the citie into his possession, because the citizens yeelded them selves unto his mercy. Also it was besieged about one hundred and fourteene yeares after that time by the Em perour Arnolphus, who by Berengarius Duke of Forum Julii, now called Friuli (a Prince that sometimes in those daies kept his court in this city) was sollicited to come into [p. 330.] Italy with an army of men to aide him in his warres against his great aemulus Guido Duke of Spoleto who contended with him for the Kingdome of Italy : but the citie received no great hurt by his siege ; for it quickly yeelded it selfe • into the hands of the Emperour, as it did before to Charle maine. Neare this citie was fought a great battell, anno 778. A great battle betwixt the Emperour Charles the second surnamed the ¦ H Bald, and the two sonnes of his brother Lewes surnamed Germanicus, whose names were Caroloman and Charles : in this battell (which was fought about two years after the great battell waged at the towne of Andernach in Ger many, which I will hereafter mention in my notes of the same place, betweene the said Emperour and his Nephew Lewes another of these Princely brethren) was the Emper our conquered by his Nephewes, and shamefully put to flight, shortly after the which he died in Mantua, as I have before written. Here Philippus Arabs, the first Christian Emperour was 37 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES slaine by Decius the Captaine of his forces in Illyricum, and afterward his successor in the Empire. Here also Death of Alboinus the first King of the Longobards died an un- Alboims. naturall death. For whereas the said King, after he had taken the famous citie of Pavie by a long siege out of the hands of Longinus the first Exarch of Ravenna, kept his court in this citie of Verona, and solaced himselfe with feastes and banquets : he compelled his wife Rosa- munda to drinke one day at table out of the * skull of her father Cunimundus, whom a little before he had slaine: for the which his Queene intending to be revenged upon him for that most inhumane and barbarous injury, con spired with one Helmichildus a noble Longobard, to kill the King her husband, with promise both to marry him if he would execute the matter, & to bestow the Kingdome of Lombardy upon him. Whereupon Helmichildus being [p. 331.] tempted with this faire offer, murdered Alboinus, as he was asleepe in his bedde. And so by this meanes he obtained indeede the marriage of the Queene, but not the possession of the Kingdome. For being constrayned to flie away presently after he had committed this bloody Queen ^ assassination, he came with his wife Rosamund to Ravenna to the Court of Longinus before named, where after they had remayned a little while, Longinus falling in love with the Queen, perswaded her, to the end he might the sooner enjoy her in marriage, to poyson her new husband Helmil- childus. The Queene shortly after delivered her husband a poysoned cup as he came one day out of a bath, which when he had greedily dranke, and now perceived the violent effect of the poyson, he compels Rosamund to drinke the rest ; so that she died presently with her husband. Here Ludovicus King of Italy, the sonne of Boson King of Province, by his wife Hermingardis * The like example I have read of the skull of the Greeke Emperour Nicephorus who succeeded the Empresse Irene, and divided the Empire with Charlemaine. For after he was slaine by the Bulgarians the King of Bulgaria did set his skull in a plate of silver, and commonly dranke in the same at his banquets instead of a cuppe. Carion. Chronic, lib. 4. 38 Rosamund. OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA daughter to the Emperour Charles the second surnamed the Bald (whom I have before mentioned) had his eies plucked out of his head by Duke Berengarius before named. Besides those famous learned men borne in Verona, that I have above mentioned, with many other most excellent wittes, that it hath ever bredde from time to time, I have often read of two most worthy women borne in this city, Two worthy whereof each was esteemed the Phcenix of her time for wmen- learning, with mention of whom I will end this description of Verona ; the one was called Isota Nogarola a * virgin, who attained to so great knowledge, that she was very eloquent in the Greeke and Latin tongues, and wrote many excellent Latin Epistles to Nicolas, the fifth Pope of that name. Also she composed an elegant Dialogue, wherein she disputed the matter, who committed the greatest sinne Adam or Eve. The other was \ Genebria, who in the time of Pius the second of that name Pope, wrote sundry Latin Epistles with a most elegant stile ; which two women have no lesse ennobled this famous citie, with their learning then Aspasia, and Diotima, did [p- 332-] Athens, Cornelia, Rome, Cassandra Venice, or Hilde- gardis the citie of Bing in Germany. Thus much of Verona. I Remained in Verona all Friday after nine of the clocke in the morning, all Saturday, and departed therehence upon Sunday being the fourteenth day of August, about one of the clocke in the afternoone, and came to a little towne called Desensan, in Latin Desentianum, which is Desensan. subject to the Venetians, and two and twenty miles beyond Verona, about eight of the clocke in the evening. In this space I observed onely a faire Fortresse of the Venetians at a towne called Peschiera, fourteene miles from Verona : Peschiera. the other things were ordinary, as faire Vineyards, &c. * Fulgosus lib. 8. cap. 3. Memorabilium. t Gesnerus Biblioth. 39 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Lake di Garda. This towne Desentianum is situate neare to the goodly lake Garda heretofore called Benacus, which Virgil men- tioneth in these wordes : Fluctibus, & fremitu assurgens Benace marino. The first name Benacus was imposed upon it from a towne so called, and also the new name Garda from a towne situate neare to it, which retaineth that name at this day. This lake is called in the Italian Lago di Gardo ; it is said to be thirty five miles long, and in some places fourteene broad. I heard that it is commonly esteemed the noblest Lake of all Italy, and some doe not sticke to preferre it before the famous Lacus Larius, now called Lago di Como. The faire River Mincius that runneth by Mantua (of whom I have before made mention) issueth out of this Lake : it is oftentimes very rough and boysterous, inso much that at sometimes of the yeare it is very dangerous for passengers to passe that way. The cause of which roughnesse is ascribed unto the high cliffes that inclose it on both sides, and interclude the windes, who having not the liberty there as in the open sea, doe extremely tosse Golden sands, up and downe the waters. It yeeldeth golden sands like those of Tagus by Lisbone, and Pactolus by Sardis in Lydia. Also it aboundeth with fish, especially Carpes, Troutes, and Eeles. This lake is very memorable for one thing, to wit, for a famous victory gotten near unto it of the Germanes, by that worthy and victorious Emperour Flavius Claudius the successor of Galien, of whom the Historians do write he partly slew and pardy tooke captive two hundred thousand. I departed from Desentianum the next day being munday, and the fifteenth day of August about seven of the clocke in the morning, and came to Brixia, commonly called Bressa, being eighteene miles beyond it, about two of the clocke in the afternoone : in which space I observed nothing memorable, but onely some few ruinous Casdes, which seeme to be buildings of great antiquity. [p- 333-] Brescia. 40 OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA My Observations of Brixia. Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written this Hexastichon upon Brixia. QUae pingues scatebras specula despectat ab alta Scaltger's Postulat imperii Brixia magna vices. vet ses upon Coelum hilarum, frons laeta urbi, gens nescia fraudis. Atque modum ignorat divitis uber agri. Si regeret patrias animis concordibus oras, Tunc poterat Dominis ipsa jubere suis. This citie standeth in that part of Lombardy which is called Longobardia Transpadana, because it is beyond the river Po, and is situate in a plaine at the foote of a hill, being in compasse three miles. It was first founded by Brescia the auncient Gaules called Cenomani, though some doe fif-nded by the write it was a Colony of the Romans. I heard that there are some notable antiquities and inscriptions in this citie, [p. 334.] but I must intreat thee (gentle Reader) to pardon me although I doe not communicate them to thee. For I made so short aboad in the Citie, that I could not observe halfe so much as I would have done if I had remained there but one whole day. It is invironed with strong walles, wherein there are five gates, and fortified with a most impregnable Castle that standeth upon a hill, built all with free-stone. Also it is well watered with pleasant springs and sweete foun tains, as any citie I saw in Italy, nay none the like. Which flow incessantly from many fine Conduits in sundry market-places, and it is moystened with a river called Garza, which indeed is but little, yet very commodious to the Citie. The Palace wherein the Venetian Praetor and Praefectus Palace of doe lie (for here both have but one Palace, though in Bmaa- other cities they have two) is a sumptuous building, and furnished with great store of munition and artillery. At the west gate thereof, which is most commonly guarded with a guard of Souldiers that doe attend there all the day 41 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES with Partizans in their handes, I read this inscription over a Scutchin on the right hand as I went into the court. Dux, Heros, Scriptor Paruta, Regis, geris, edis, Urbem, res, libros, Imperio, arte, manu. And this a little under the same, Fide, Virtute, Integritate, spectatissimo viro Paulo Parutae hujus urbis Praefecto Optime merito, anno Dom. M.D.Lxxxxi. The Palace The Palace court is thirty sixe paces long and forty broad, court. ancj an tke wajs rouncj about are adorned with sundry armes of the Venetian Gentlemen. Also in the middle of [p- 335-] the court there is an exceeding pleasant Conduit that spowteth out water in three degrees one above another; in the second degree are sixe prety pipes, out of the which the water doth most abundantly flow : also the higher part doth exceeding pleasantly powre out water. At the west end of the Palace in the outside of the wall, this is written under the winged Lyon. ./Eternae pacis, justitiae, libertatisque Defensor. Over the dore of the Praetors chamber I read this impresse. Diligite justitiam qui judicatis terram. Armour. I went into one of the Praetors inner roomes, which I saw furnished with armour round about all the walles, as helmets, costlets, and other armour for armes and thighes, which served only for horsemen. The like armour also was on both sides of the entry within that roome, which leadeth to the lodgings of the Praefectus. Under which armour I saw on both sides launces and speares for horse men. At the north side there is a goodly brasen dore made like a latteise window, through the which I saw five faire roomes more, passing well furnished with armour. At that gate are exceeding faire pillars of blacke marble, 42 OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA interlaced with prety white vaines. Many fine pictures of armed men are made by the sides of that northerne dore. Opposite unto this roome is another faire chamber, the roofe whereof is curiously adorned with excellent pictures. Their principall market place is very faire, at one corner Principal whereof there standeth a goodly high pillar of free-stone, marketplace. whereon the winged Lyon is advanced according to the custome of the Venetians, who have erected such a pillar in the principall market place of every Citie subject to their dominion, as I have before mentioned in Vicenza and Verona. At the west end of this market place there standeth a most stately Councell house, which was very faire, and covered with lead before it was burnt. But they have reedified and marvailously beautified it beneath [p. 336-] with goodly pillars, and above round about with borders and workes in great arches, and with marble pillars and images of admirable curiosity, representing some of the auncient Roman Emperours, so passing faire that I have scarce seene a more curious and artificiall architecture in Italy, saving the Amphitheater of Verona, the Palace of Padua, and some few of the Venetian buildings. In the Domo which is dedicated to our Lady I saw a Cathedral very faire monument of Francis Maurocenus their last "" ' Bishop, who was also Cardinall. His statue is erected above a most beautiful stone wherein his Epitaph is written : and above the same his Cardinals hat and armes. His Epitaph is this. D. T. V. Joanni Francisco Mauroceno Patricio Veneto Prisca gentis nobilitate, vitae sanctitate, Religione, omnique virtutum genere, Ac rerum gestarum gloria clarissimo. Qui post amplissimas in Sabaudia, Gallia, Hispania, Polonia, Constantinopoli reipub. nomine Singulari cum integritate, fide, prudentia, 43 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Animi excelsi atque invicti magnitudine, Ac denique omnium approbatione, Obitas legationes; A Gregoria XIII. ultro designatus, Mox a. Sixto V creatus Brixiensis Episcopus, Et ab eodem in Gallia iterum ad Henricum III. Summa cum potestate difficillimis temporibus missus Re feliciter gesta, absens extra ordinem S. R. E. Cardinalis Ingenti cum omnium bonorum acclamatione factus est, Et simul Legatus a Latere. [p. 337.] Ad extremum omnibus vitae ornamentis cumulatus In Ecclesiae suae gremio incredibili ejusdem Ac totius Venetae atque adeo Christianae Reipub. Maerore, Verus Gregis Pastor, ac liberaliss, pauperum Pater, Ex hac vita ad aeternam demigravit, Anno cb. Id. Xcvi. Men. Janu. die xiiii. Pauperes hujus Civitatis Brixioe Haeredes ab eo ex asse instituti. Ope Marini Georgii ipsius Cardinalis Consob. Et in Episcopatu Successoris Parenti optimo grati animi monumentum P. Vixit Ann. lviii. Men. iii. Di. xv. Sedit Ann. x. Men. i. Di. ix. The Emperor In this Domo is kept a very memorable monument (if Constantine's tnat were true ^^ the Brixians do report of it, as without doubt it is absolutely false) namely the Crosse that was presented unto the Emperour Constantine in the south part of heaven, about the going downe of the sun, at what time he marched with his army towards Rome, to joyne battell with Maxentius. In which Crosse these characters were plainly seene : In hoc signo Constantine vinces. The Brixians doe call this Crosse whereof they so much boast, Oroflamma, which signifieth the golden Flame, &c. and they affirme that it representeth the colour 44 OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA of heaven. Albeit I hold this tradition to be a meere, yea, a very grosse figment (for what wise man that hath his wit in his head and not in his heele, will beleeve that this should be the very same heavenly Crosse ? seing we reade that Constantine himselfe could not have the same, but in steede thereof made another Crosse the next day after of gold and precious stone, which was borne before him in steede of a standard, Euseb. de vita Constant, lib. i.) yet for the satisfaction of my mind I made meanes to see it, but I could not obtayne the sight thereof, because it is shewed but at certayne times. The Bishop of Brixia hath many temporall dignities [p. 338.] added to his spirituall, so that he is intitled a Duke, Marquesse, and Earle. I visited the Church of the Dominican Friers, which Church of the is a very fayre building, the Quire being beautified with ^%fwan many goodly ornaments, amongst the rest their new taber nacle is a very glorious, piece of worke. One of the Friers told me that they keepe a bone of one of Mary Magdalens armes here : but I could not obtaine the sight of it, because it is shewed but at certaine times. The nunnery which is dedicated to the holy Martyr St. Julia, is a building of great antiquity. For it was built by Desiderius the last King of the Longobards in the time of Carolus Magnus, about the yeare 750. The Church thereof hath beene lately renewed and beautified at the charges of the Nunnes. Upon the front I read this inscription. Relicto Templo quod Desiderius Rex Salvatori erexerat, Hoc nobilius Deo & Sanctae Juliae Dicatum Sacrae Moniales Construxerant. An. Sal. cId.Id.Ic. This Nunnery hath beene in times past a receptacle of Nunnery of many royall Ladies, who after their entrance into the same s- Juha- spent all the remainder of their lives there in divine medi- 45 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES A rain of blood. [P- 339-] SS. Faustinus and Jovita. Palaces of the gentlemen. tations, under the rule of St. Bennet : as Ansilperga the sister of the foresaid King Desiderius the founder thereof, and Hermingarda his daughter: and Hermigranda the wife of the first Emperour Lotharius, and Angilberga the sister of the Emperour Charles the third, and Berta the daughter of King Berengarius, and many other Noble Matrons and Virgins. One miraculous or rather prodigi ous accident that hapned once in this City in the time of the Emperour Ludovicus the second, I will mention here, to wit, that it rayned bloud here for the space of three dayes together, which was as red and lively as if it had newly flowen out of the body of any man or beast. A portent so exceeding strange, that as I never read or heard of the like in any place of the world before, so I doubt whether there was ever the like accident either before or since of the like continuance ; my Authour of this was a learned man of this City, whom I found to be a man of excellent learning. This city was first converted to Christianity about the yeare 1 1 9 by St. Apollinaris Bishop of Ravenna. One of their churches is dedicated to two Saints namely Faustinus & Jovita that were heretofore citizens of the same City of Brixia, and constant Martyrs of Jesus Christ : who suffered martyrdome in the persecution of the Emperour Adrian, whose great torments one Calocerius perceiving that they endured with great patience, he cryed out with these words : Vere magnus Deus Christianorum. For which he was also martyred in the same place. They have one principall tower above the rest commonly called Pallada, wherein the fairest bels of the City doe hang. The Gentlemens Palaces of the City are very faire, most of them being built with free stone, not with brick, as in many other Italian Cities. One amongst the rest I observed of great magnificence, in the front whereof an Eagle was so exquisitely pourtrayed, that it much graced that part of the building. Also their pentices are as broad as those of Verona. Many of their streetes are beautified 46 OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA with such open galleries to walke in, and garnished with faire pillars, as those of Mantua, Padua, and Venice, above mentioned. This City is one of those that Attila King of the Hunnes grievously wasted, when he entred into Italy after his over throw in France toy .ZEtius Generall of the Roman army. Many hundred yeares after which time it was so much inclined to factions and mutinies, that in the time of Ludovicus the third of that name Emperour and one of [p. 340.] the Othoes, it changed her governement no lesse then seven times in the space of eight and twenty yeares ; but at this time after so many revolutions and alterations of their state, it is subject to the noble Signiory of Venice. The Cutlers of this City are accounted very excellent Excellent workemen for making of knives, targets, and swordes of cutlers- a singular temper : also the trade of making silke and linen doth much flourish here. It happened that the same Munday that I was in Brixia, was Barthelmew day. At what time there was a most solemne and ceremonious dedication of a new image to the Virgin Mary with Christ in her armes, which I saw performed in a certaine little Chappel with many super stitious rites. For they attired the image with a great Dedication of many several roabes, as of sattin, taffata, lawne, &c. and an ma&m there was a great multitude of litle waxen idols brought to the Chappell, whereof some were onely armes, some thighes, some presented all the parts of a mans body : although these toyes were no novelties unto me. For I saw many of them before that time in divers Italian Cities. Yet I had a marvailous itching desire to finger one of them, only to this end, to bring it home into England, to shew it to my friends as a token of their idolatry : but I saw there was some difficulty in the matter. How- beit I gave the venture upon it in this manner. I stood at one corner of the Chappel while many women were at their divine oraizons prostrate before the image, and very secretly conveighed my fingers into a little basket (nobody taking notice thereof) where the images were laid ; and 47 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES so purloyned one of them out, and brought him home into England. Which had it been at that time perceived, perhaps it might have cost me the lying in the Inquisition longer then I would willingly have endured it. Thus much of Brixia. [P- 341-] T Departed from Brixia about eight of the clock in the x morning the sixteenth day of August being Tuesday, Bergamo, and came to Bergomum commonly called Bergomo the last City of the Venetian Signiory about seven of the clocke in the evening. The distance betwixt these two Cities is thirty miles. I observed in this space great abundance of goodly vineyards, which at that time yeelded ripe grapes passing faire and sweet. For I did oftentimes borrow a point of the law in going into their Vineyards without leave, to refresh my selfe with some of then- grapes. Which the Italians like very good fellowes did winke at, shewing themselves more kinde unto me then the Germans did afterward in Germany, as I will hereafter declare in my observations of their country. For they will not graunt a stranger that liberty to goe into any of their vineyardes without leave, as the Italians doe. The Pleasant greatest part of the way betwixt these Cities is as pleasant ave mg. ag an^ j travelled in Italy. For it is very plaine and even ; one spacious lane, on both sides whereof the goodly vine yardes grew, extending it selfe about eighteene miles in length. All that day I saw great abundance of people going to and fro, but especially forward towards Bergomo, because there was a great faire there at that time ; most of the horsemen being well appointed with muskets or pewternels ready charged, according to that custome of the Italians that I have before mentioned. 4« OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO My Observations of Bergomo. Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon Bergomo. INgenium, corpus, mores, obtutus, amictus, Scaligers Tecta, cibus, gressus, guttura, sermo, sonus : verm on Omnia crassa modis insignibus, omnia dura, r er&ff0- Sic valeant silices ut superare suos. Ista domi : sed vicinus si aspergat acetum, Artibus atque dolis vincitur ipse suis. This City was built about a hundred and fifty yeares before the incarnation of our Saviour Christ, by one Cirinus King of Liguria. It standeth on the side of a hill, having in the east and south the pleasant plaine of Lombardy before it. So that from many places of this City there is as sweet a prospect as any place of Italy doth yeeld. In the north and west are great hils that leade towards the Alpes. It is deyided into two parts, the higher and the lower. Unto the higher there is a long and tedious ascent. It was my chaunce to be here 5- Barthok- at the time of their fair the next day after Barthelmew mwsFmr- day, which lasteth a whole weeke ; being kept in a large plaine a little way distant from the lower part of the City. This was the greatest faire that ever I saw in my life, except that of Franckford in Germany, whereof I will hereafter speake. For there was a great concurse of people not onely from the Cities of Lombardy, but also from many other principal Cities of Italy : besides many Germans both out of the Grisons country and Switzerland repaire hither at this time : exceeding plenty of all manner of commodities being there sold. The first that planted the doctrine of Christian religion in the City, and chaced idolatry and Paganisme out of it, was St. Barnabas, who preached the Gospell first also at Milan. The Cathedrall Church is dedicated to our Lady, and Cathedral standeth in the higher part of the City : a very notable chuTch- c. c. ii. 49 D CORYAT'S CRUDITIES faire building though but little. At the entrance of the north gate there are two faire pillars of red marble, sup ported with two huge Lyons of the same matter. At the toppe over an arch which is above the dore, is advanced a gallant fellow on horsebacke made in alabaster. One [p- 343-] part of this northerne front on the right hand as you enter into the gate, is passing beautifull, being compacted wholly of sundry sorts of marble and alabaster, which doe yeeld a very glorious shew. The greatest part of it is made of checker worke. In the middest of this front is a faire round window garnished very excellently with many prety pieces of marble, at the sides whereof are erected the statues in alabaster of two famous Roman Emperours. Julius Caesar on the left hand, under whom this is written in great Roman letters : Divus Julius Caesar. And above him this : Imperavit annis V. On the right hand the effigies of Trajan, under whom is written : Divus Trajanus Augustus. And above : Imperavit Annis XVIII. But I perceive that they calculate the time of his raigne within compasse. For al the historians write that he raigned nineteene yeares and halfe. These statues are made to the middle part of their breast and no further. I told certaine Italian Gentlemen that observed me writing, they were much to blame to erect the images of prophane heathen men upon their Church. For although it were good to keepe such antiquities, yet they ought not to be placed upon Churches where Christ is worshipped; but rather upon their Councell houses, or their private build ings. This part of the frontispice is passing faire, and worthy to be noted by an industrious traveller. After I entered the north gate I observed in a faire litle chappell on the right hand of the Church, an exceeding Monument of sumptuous monument of Barthelmew Coleon the General Bc£n°mW CaPtaine of the Venetians land forces, as I have before mentioned in my discourse of Venice. They say it was made in his life time by his owne appointment. He is represented on horsebacke, all in glittering gold in his complete armour that he wore in the field, and his mifitary 5° OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO trunchion in his right hand. All this monument is made of pure alabaster, wherein are represented many notable histories done in the pretiest litle images and works that [p- 344-] I saw in any City of Italy. The whole worke is supported with four alabaster pillars, at the foote whereof are expressed the heads of Lyons. At the toppe of all is advanced his helmet and crest with his armes, at the sides are hanged two auncient banners which are grievously rent and torne with antiquity. A little from his Tombe there is hanged up a faire cloth of arras, in the middest whereof his armes are finely wrought, which are three testicles. The reason is, because nature gave him three stones, one more then other men have, as I have said before in my description of Venice. The monument it selfe is a worke of that admirable sumptuousnesse, that I esteeme it the fairest I saw in Italy, saving that of Mastinus Scaliger in the little Churchyard at Verona. The Epitaph Coleon's it selfe is this. DOM '*"**' Bartholomaeus Colleonus de Andegavia, virtute immortali- tatem adeptus, usque adeo jure militari fuit illustris, ut non modo turn viventium gloriam longe excesserit, sed & posteris spem eum imitandi ademerit. Saepius enim a diversis Principibus, ac deinceps ab illustrissimo Ven. Senatu accepto Imperio tandem totius Christianorum exercitus, sub Paulo Secundo Pontifice Maximo, delectus fuit Imperator : cujus acies 14. annis ab ejus obitu, solo jam defuncti Imperatoris tanquam vivi nomine militantes, jussa cujuscunque alterius contempserunt. Obiit 4. Nonas Novembris, Anno Domini 1475. There are two very sumptuous Pulpits on both sides of the Quire without, made of blacke and white marble, having faire winding staires to ascend to them, with a very rich rail at the edge made of brasse, and adorned with many curious and fine workes. One of the Priests of the City told me that there are Admirable forty Masses said every day in this Church : An admir- devotion- able devotion certainly. The greatest part of them is 51 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES celebrated in two little Chappels on both sides of the Quire. Where I noted two exceeding curious railes at [p- 345-] the entrance of them, the pillars whereof are made of white and blacke marble, and the upper part ex versicolore marmore. The roof of the The roofe over the Quire is very beautifully concamer- Choir. ated, and richly gilt. Round about the upper end of the Quire there is as exquisite a peece of worke as ever I saw of that kinde. For a certaine cunning artificer called Franciscus de Ferreo monte hath with extraordinary curiosity contrived the history of the creation of the world, and many other histories of the old Testament in wainscot. So rare a worke that it is most admirable to behold. There are also two very rich paire of Organs on both sides without the Quire, most sumptuously gilt, and imbossed with many very excellent workes. The At the west end of the Church right opposite to the Baptistery. Quire, I saw a passing faire and auncient Fabricke, built of sundry kinds of marble, wherein are baptized the children of Noblemen onely. It is an admirable archi tecture, raysed unto such an heigth that it doth even touch the roofe of that part of the Church where it standeth. It is built round and adorned with sixe partitions of little marble pillars, whereof many are Porphyrie, each partition contayning fourteene severall pillars. At the toppe there standeth the image of an Angeli. Againe betwixt every partition prety images are made in redde marble : Also about the middle of the worke sixe alabaster images round about the same, being distant asunder by an equall dis tance. The dore at the entrance is made of brasse, and contrived like a Latteise window. I observed in a redde marble stone, which is about the foot of this rare worke, a notable thing which is not to be omitted, even the true resemblance of a serpent, formed more exquisitely in the stone by the hand of nature her selfe the most cunning architect of all, then the most curious artificer in the world could possibly have done. A thing that was shewed me [p. 346.] by an Italian, as a matter very worthy my observation. 52 OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO This piece of marble may be very properly called Ophiti- call (of which I have written before in my notes of Venice) because it doth so truely present rov Scplv, that is, a Serpent. The Arras and hangings about this church are as faire as I saw in any Church of Italy. The Palace of the Bishop of Bergomo, whose name is Bishop's Joannes Baptista, doth joyne to our Ladies Church, but Palace- is the basest and most beggarly Palace for a Bishop that I saw in Italy. I was at the Praetorium, which is in this higher part of the citie, a very obscure and meane Palace, and inferiour to all the other Palaces of the Venetian Praetors that I saw. The name of the Praetor when I was in Bergomo was Vincentius Barocius. Hard by our Lady Church there is a stately walke, The which I take to be their Exchange, and a place where they ExchanSe- meete about their civill affaires. It is fairely roofed, & sumptuously vaulted, and supported within with two degrees of pillars. It is square ; for it is but thirty two paces every way. In the middle of the easterne wall, which is at the upper end of the walke, I read this inscrip tion upon a large table of Touch-stone. Andreas Gussono Praetori, Viro virtutibus omnibus Atque inprimis in hanc patriam Charitate insigni. Qui pauperes prae fame deficientes Ingenio quidem, liberalitate Autem maxime sustinuit : Qui ne ab ea amplius premerentur, Ad rem frumentariam Viam invenit. Qui montem pietatis ad multos Annos derelictum, honestius Quam antea. erexit. Qui utriusque fori juribus [p. 347.] Consulens, sua cuique 53 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Hactenus confusa, distinxit. Qui hasc levia existimans In commodis nunc altioribus Vires suas omnes contendit. B. B. B. D. D. An. P. Chr. Nat. M. D. Lxxxix. Church of the Augustinian Friars. Ambrose Calepine. [P- 348.] 1 visited the Church of the Augustinian Friers which is situate in the middle of the hill, betwixt the higher and the lower citie. A little within the entrance of the Church there are two faire Fonts of blacke marble that serve for their holy water. Their Tabernacle upon their high altar is a very costly thing. For it cost them two thousand duckats, which is two hundred thirty three pound six shillings eight pence sterling. Within that Altar there is a marvailous rich table, that covereth almost all the wall of the higher Chappell where their high Altar standeth, even from the toppe to the ground, being adorned with the picture of S. Augustine, and some other Saints. Also they have a wonderfull rich paire of Organs lately made, and decked with exceeding faire pillars, made indeede but of Wainscot, but so curiously handled, that it yeeldeth a very faire shew : it is said it shal be all gilt. There are twelve Altars in this Church, one against another, sixe in each side, made in so many severall Chappels ; in one whereof there lyeth the body of famous Ambrose Calepine heretofore one of the Friers of this Monastery. This is he that made that notable Latin Dictionary so famous over all Christendome, which hath beene since his death so inlarged and augmented by the studious labours of other learned men, that were he now alive he would scarce know his own worke. It grieved me to see how obscurely he was buried : For he hath nothing but a flat stone upon him, without Epitaph or any other memoriall that might derive the fame of so worthy a mans name to future ages. All that space of the wall which is betwixt every one of those foresaid twelve Chappels, is beautified with a rich Taffata hanging : on which there hangeth one of the pictures of the twelve Apostles : the whole twelve being » 54 OBSERVATIONS OF BERGA1V placed upon the twelve severall hangings. Also each of these hangings differeth from another in colour. Over one of the dores of the Trinity Church, which is Trinity in the lower part of the citie, these verses are written : Church. Aurea perpetuo funduntur ab aethere dona His adytis : si quidem Romana sacraria Clemens Explicuit, sociasque animas effecit & aras. Also over the same dore there is an arch, about the edge whereof without the same arch, this following is written in a round compasse : O summe excellens caelestis gloria regni, Quam pius ecce Deus si velit ipse dabit. Againe, under that, this is written within the arch, a little above the picture of the Virgin Mary, holding Christ in her armes: Angelicas inter mentes, superasque phalanges. Under the same directly over the dore as you enter into the Church, this Tetrastiche. Filia, nupta, parens, magni rectoris Olympi, Idem qui natus virque paterque fuit. Adsint ut caeptis quae sunt tria numina & unum, Haec tria Virgo roga Filia, Nupta, Parens. The Gentlewomen of this city doe weare very strange Counterfeit kinde. of chaines about their neckes. A stranger at the Chains. first sight of them will imagine they are very precious ornaments, worth three or foure hundred duckats, and made of pure gold : as indeede I did. But after better consideration he will find them counterfait. For indeed they are but copper, as an Italian told me. They hang very large about their necks, being about three times double, and have extraordinary great linkes. Also I observed that their attire doth much differ from the habits of the Italian Gentlewomen in other cities of Italy. For [p. 349.] whereas most of their gownes are of Sattin or Taffata ; the sleeves of them are exceeding great in the middest, and so little at the hands, that they cannot weare them 55 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES A rude dialect. Bergamobesieged A.D. 900. [P- 35°-] upon the sleeves of their other garments. So that they alwaies hang loose and flapping. This fashion they have borrowed from the Spaniards. For I saw it much used by the Spanish Gentlewomen at Turin, and by a woman Mountebanke in Venice that imitated the Spanish attire. The language of this City is esteemed the rudest and grossest of all Italy, as the Boeotian dialect was the basest of all Greece. In so much that one of our English men Thomas Edwards in his Monostiches that he hath com posed of the Italian Cities, hath written this verse of Bergomo. Bergomum ab inculta dictum est ignobile lingua. The governement of it is as the rest of the Cities subject to the Venetians. Heretofore it was subject to the Roman Empire, when the same flourished in his glory. But after the downefall thereof it was spoiled by Attila when he destryed Brixia, Verona, and other famous cities of ftaly. Then the Longobardes had the dominion of it for a long time : then again the Kings of Italy made it tributary to them. In the time of whose sway thereof it hapned to be once very straightly besieged by the Emperour Arnol- phus about the yeare of our Lord 900. much about the time that he besieged Verona also, as I have before men tioned. But he had not long girt it with siege before he expugned it by force of armes. And having entred the same, he apprehended and hanged one Ambrose Earle of the City, who fortified and defended it in the behalfe of Guido (whom I have before mentioned) Duke of Spoleto against Berengarius Duke of Friuli. After the Kings of Italy the Turrians and Vicounts of Milan succeeded in the government thereof. Also the Scaligers of Verona and the Frenchmen. But at last it subjected it selfe voluntarily to the Venetians, under whose protection it enjoyed tranquillity and peace at this day. This City yeelded me the worst lodging for one night that I found in all my travels out of England. For all 56 OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO the Innes were so extreme full of people by reason of the faire, that I could not get a convenient lodging though I would have given two or three duckats for it. So that I was faine to lye upon straw in one of their stables at the ^ ltard horse feete, according to a picture that I have made of it ° s'ng' in the frontispice of my booke. Where (notwithstanding my repose upon so uncouth a pallate) I slept in utramque aurem, even as securely as upon a bedde of downe, because of my long journey the day before. And it was long before I could obtayne this favour, which was at last granted me by the meanes of an honest Italian Priest who had beene a traveller. Unto whom I was not a litle beholding for some curtesies that I received at his hands in Bergomo. He promised to revisit me the next morning, to the end to shew me the antiquities of the City. But he was prevented to my great griefe by the villany of a certaine bloud-thirsty Italian, who for an old grudge he bare to him, shot him through the body in his lodging with a pewternell. Also a certayne Dominican Frier of this City called A courteous Vincentius de Petrengo, who was the chiefe reader of the f™™*""' Praedicatory family, and stiled himselfe de Conventu Basellae, did so greatly gratifie me in this City, that I cannot conveniently let him passe in this Treatise of Bergomo, without some kinde of mention of his name. For I received a speciall favour at his hands, which was this. When I was to goe forth of the City towards the Grisons country, and so into Germany, being ignorant of the way, I repaired to the Augustinian Friers to crave some directions of them for my journey. But none of them could direct me themselves, though very kindly they [p- 3S1-] brought me acquainted with this foresaid Dominican, to the end he should satisfie me about the matter, because he had lived within these few yeares in the territory of the Grisons, as a Chaplaine to a certaine Clarissimo of Venice that was sent Ambassador unto them, at what time he preached against the Calvinists of their country, as he Friendly himselfe told me. Truly he gave me as friendly councell Counsel. 57 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The Spanish Inquisition to be feared by Travellers. [P- 352-] Angry flies. as any Protestant could have done. For he told me what daungers there were betwixt that and Germany, and the meanes how I might avoid them : that I was a Calvinist, he said he was fully perswaded, because I was an English man. Notwithstanding he would willingly give me the best counsell he could, in regard I was a stranger in those parts. Therefore he signified unto me that it would be very dangerous for me to passe in one place of the Grisons country within a few miles after the entrance thereof, if I were not very circumspect. For he said there was a certaine Castle seated by the lake of Corno which was possessed and guarded by a garrizon of Spaniards, by which if I should happen to take my journey, they would lay their Inquisition upon me, as soone as they should perceive that I was an Englishman, and so consequently torture me with extreme cruelty, if they saw me constant in the profession of my religion, till they might compell me to abjure it, which if I would not doe by the violence of their punishments, then at last they would put me to death, and excarnificate me after a very bitter and terrible manner. For the avoiding of which dangers he counselled me to leave the Castle on the left hand of my way, and so to passe on the right hand towards a towne called Chiavenna. Thus by the kind advice of this honest Frier I tooke such a way in the Grisons country, that I shunned the Spanish Inquisition, which otherwise would not (I beleeve) have given me leave to bring thus much newes out of Italy into England, except I would have renounced my religion, which God forbid I should ever doe, not withstanding any torments of Spaniards or any other enemies of the Gospell of Christ. I am sure all kinde of Friers will not give Protestants the like counsell to eschew the bloudy Spanish carnificina, (which is almost as cruell a punishment as Phalaris his brasen bull, or the exquisitest torments that the Sicilian Tyrants were wont to inflict upon offenders) but on the contrary side endevour rather to intrappe them therein. Those angry flies called cimices, which are generally 58 OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO dispersed over all places of Italy in the sommer time, did very much offend me in this City, as they did also in every City of Italy. They will shrewdly bite a mans skinne, and leave their markes behind them, yet they will doe no great hurt to a man. I observed a strange phrase both in this City and all other Italian cities where I was, that whensoever any Italian doth discourse in Latin with a stranger or any man else, he will very seldome speake to a man in the second person. As for example he will not say, Placet ne tibi : but Placet ne dominationi tuae or vestrae. So that they doe most commonly use that circumlocution, even to the meanest person that is. I observed another thing also in the Italians pronouncing Italian pro of the Latin Tongue, which though I might have men- "ounemgof tioned before in the description of some of the other Italian Cities ; yet seing I have hitherto omitted it, I will here make mention thereof, rather then not at al, because this is the last City of Italy that I shall describe in this journey. The Italian when he uttereth any Latin word wherein this letter i is to be pronounced long, doth alwaies pronounce it as a double e, viz as ee. As for example : he pronounceth feedes for fides : veeta for vita : ameecus for amicus, &c. but where the i is not to be pronounced long he uttereth it as we doe in England, as in these wordes, impius, aquila, patria, Ecclesia : not aqueela, patreea, Eccleseea. And this pronounciation is so generall [p. 353.] in all Italy, that every man which speaketh Latin soundeth a double e for an i. Neither is it proper to Italy only, but to all other nations whatsoever in Christendome saving to England. For whereas in my travels I discoursed in Latin with Frenchmen, Germans, Spaniards, Danes, Polonians, Suecians, and divers others, I observed that every one with whom I had any conference, pronounced the i after the same manner that the Italians use. Neither would some of them (amongst whom I was not a little inquisitive for the reason of this their pronounciation) sticke to affirme that Plautus, Terence, Cicero, Hortensius, 59 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Caesar, and those other selected flowers of eloquence amongst the auncient Romans, pronounced the i in that sort as they themselves doe. Whereupon having observed such a generall consent amongst them in the pronounciation of this letter I have thought good to imitate these nations herein, and to abandon my old English pronounciation of vita, fides, and amicus, as being utterly dissonant from the sound of all other Nations ; and have determined (God willing) to retayne the same till my dying day. Two famous Amongst other learned men of great note that this men of cjty j^jj Dre(j) j -will name two famous persons that after ergam ^^ j^ a \ong time lived here in the profession of Popery, being at last truly illuminated with Gods holy Spirit abandoned this Citie which was their native soile, and went into Germany, where they undertooke the profession of the Gospell of Christ, and afterward persevered in the Protestants religion til their last breath. These were Hier- onymus Zanchius, and Gulielmus Gratarolus. Whereof the first was a most singular Divine, and a zealous Preacher of Gods word in the renowned Cities of Strazbourg, Heidelberg, and other places of Germany. Besides he hath exceedingly edified the Christian common-weale, [p- 354-] especially that which doth most sincerely professe the true doctrine of Christ, by those manifold and most solid workes of Divinity, that he hath published to the world, which will continue a sacred memory of his name till the worlds end. The other though he were by profession a Physition, and an excellent man in that faculty; yet he applied himselfe to the study of Divinity also, which doth appeare by one notable Treatise that he wrote de nods Antichristi. At last he died in the famous University of Basil, where he spent the greatest part of his life after his conversion. Thus much of Bergomo. I Remained in Bergomo all Wednesday, and departed therehence the next day being the eighteenth of August, about eleven of the clocke in the morning, and 60 FROM BERGAMO TO MEZOLT came to a village called St. Johns in the valley Brembana, The village of about sixe of the clocke in the evening. This was sixteen St JoAns- miles from Bergomo. The first village that I passed through was Zogno, which was twelve miles beyond Bergomo : and St. Johns foure miles beyond that. Al the villages both of the valley Brembana and of the Grisons country are commonly called by the name of terrae : every severall village a terra. There runneth a very swift river through this valley called Brembus, where- hence the valley hath the name of Brembana. Most of this valley is an ascent leading towards the Alpes. At the entrance it is something pleasant way, but after I had passed some sixteen miles it was very laboursome and painfull to travell, as well in regard of the steepnesse, as of the extreme hard stones wherewith the greatest part of the way is pitched. I departed from St. Johns about seven of the clocke in the morning, the nineteenth day of August being Friday, and came to a terra, upon the mountaine Ancone called [p. 355.] Mezolt about sixe of the clocke in the evening. This Mezolt. dayes journey was but eleven miles. I passed through two villages of Terraes betwixt St. Johns and Mezolt. Whereof the first was Allapiazza, where I dined with certaine Sclavonians, who told me that about five daies before that, there were thirty Bandits taken about eight Thirty miles beyond that place, who lay in waite in certaine privy Bandits corners of the mountaines, to spoile the passengers that a en' were to travell that way towards Bergomo faire. These Bandits are banished men, who for some notorious villany that they have committed in their owne countries, doe voluntarily flie away for feare of punishment, and being afterward very poore and destitute of maintenance, they live by rifling and spoyling of travellers. The other of the two Terraes is called Ulmo, three miles on this side Mezolt. Within halfe a mile after I was past Ulmo I beganne to ascend the Mountaine Ancone, which is other wise called Montane de S. Marco, a very high Alpe and difficult in ascent. There lay at the same Inne at Mezolt, 61 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES An Italian where I did, a certaine Grison called Joanne Curtabatus ™nhoJivf , borne in Chiavenna, with whom, I had much good dis- ngan . course_ por ne Spake prety good English. And lived many yeares heretofore in Cambridgeshire with Sir Horatio Palavicino an Italian, whom he served. He told me he was a Protestant : I found him a man of very courteous behaviour, and indeede he did me a certaine kindnesse, in which respect I thought it fit to name him in my journall. I departed from Mezolt about sixe of the clocke in the morning the twentieth day of August being Saturday, and came about eight of the clocke in the evening to a Terra Camp. called Camp three and twenty miles beyond it, in the fruitfull valley Telina commonly called Valtulina in the Grisons country. From Mezolt to the toppe of Saint Marks Mountaine it is foure miles. There standeth an [p. 356.] Inne built upon the toppe of this Mountaine which is the farthest bound of the Venetian Signiory, which extendeth it selfe in length from the City of Venice to this place, no lesse than an hundred threescore and fourteene miles. In all which space the Venetian money is current. Over the dore of the foresaid Inne the golden winged Lion is erected, under whom this inscription is written in blacke letters upon a golden ground. Via haec ab urbe Bergomi Morbinium tendens Temporis injuria & montium ruinis interrupta, Atque penitus interclusa, ad communem usum et com- modum non modo aperta fuit & instaurata, sed et- iam planior ac latior effecta, insuper extructa praesen- ti rerum vectigalium taberna. Quae opera ab Aloy- sio Priolo Praetore inchoata, & a Joanne Quirino Prae fecto ex Serenissimi Senatus decreto perfecta fuerunt atque absoluta Anno cId. Id. Xciv. The end of my Observations of Italy. 62 OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA My Observations of Rhetia commonly called the Grisons Country. Etwixt the foresaid Inne and Morbinio it Morbinio. is nine miles. In all which space there is a continuall descent from the Mountayne. This Morbinio is seated at the very foote of the hill, and is the first Towne of the Grisons country, situate in the foresaid valley Telina, which is famous for wines. For indeed it yeeldeth the best wines of al the Grisons country, which are esteemed so good, that they are there- hence carryed to all the principall and remotest places of the Grisons territory. As to Curia the Metropolitan City Curia. of the country threescore and seven miles off. None of those wines are carryed in Carts. Because the narrow- nesse of the waies is such that no Carts can passe there: [p. 357.] but al upon horses backs. In this Towne and all other places of this valley they speake Italian, but such rude and grosse language as in the City of Bergomo, or rather worse. The name of Rhetia commeth from Rhetus a certayne The country of King of Tuscia, who being expelled out of his owne etta' country by Bellovesus the Gaule about 587. yeares before the incarnation of Christ, at what time he conquered the Insubres, and built the City of Milan, came with many of his subjects into these valleys seated betwixt the Alpes, where they built Castels and fortifications for their defence. And after his time the country had his denomination from him as I have already said. This country of Rhetia is at this day divided into two parts, the higher and the lower : all that Tract which beginneth from the farther edge of Switzerland, and includeth some part of Lombardy as farre as the lake of Corno, (the inhabitants whereof are commonly called the Grisons) is the higher Rhetia. The lower deriveth his beginning from the river Lycus, which divideth this from 63 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES the higher, and extendeth it selfe as farre as the river iEnus, which boundeth Rhetia and Bavaria. I observed a special commodity in this countrey that I Great could not see in Italy. For I saw great abundance of abundance sneepe here, which I met driven in the way in many great of sheep. floc^ aij tne sneepe being according to my estimation at the least foure thousand: but I heard they were not the sheepe of the countrey, but the citizens of Bergomo, which were kept here about the Alpine mountaines almost al the yeare, and at that time of the yeare the sheep-heards doe use to drive them home every yeare to their Masters. Frogs. Also I noted marveilous abundance of little hip-frogges in that part of this valley Telina, where I travelled. I never saw the hundreth part of them in so short a space in all my Life : Most of their meadowes being so full of them, that I could not step five or sixe steps but I should [p- 358-] finde a little frogge ; a thing that I much wondred at, because I could not search out the naturall reason why there should be more store of them there then in other Countries. In my journey betwixt Morbinio and Camp where I lay that night, I left that castle on the left hand whereof the Dominican Fryer Vincentius of Bergomo told me, which is guarded by a Garison of Spaniards. Also I saw the noble lake of Como, upon the brinke whereof the foresaid castle standeth : this lake is called in the The Lake Italian Lago di Como from the city of Como seated by of Como. ^ which grieved me that I could not see, because it is possessed by the Spaniards. For there I should have seene two notable things the one a worthy elogium of Plinius Secundas, who was a citizen of Como, though borne in Verona, as I have before said ; that elogium I heard is written upon our Lady Church dore : the other the famous study of Paulus Jovius that excellent Historiographer and citizen of this citie also. That study is to this day shewed standing in a little Peninsula neare to the city which was once very elegantly adorned with the images of a great multitude of famous men, especially such as excelled in any faculty of learning, a learned elogium being added to 64 OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA every one by the same Jovius. This lake is otherwise called Lacus Larius from the Greeke word Xapos, which signifieth gavia, that is, a Sea-mew or Sea-gul, because there is wonderfull plenty of them about this Lake. The foresaid Jovius hath most elegantly described this lake in a peculiar Treatise thereof. That night that I lay at Campe, which is a Terra, situate Campe. by the goodly lake of the Grisons, distant about foure miles from the lake of Como, and in some places at the least two miles broad, there happened such a horrible thunder, lightning and raine all that night, that it caused an exceeding fluxe of waters from sundry places of the mountaines on both sides of the valley, that the next morning I could not goe by land to the next village, by reason of the extreme inundation, but was constrayned to [p. 359.] row thither in a boat. I departed from Camp about seven of the clocke in the morning, the one and twentieth day of August being Sunday, and came to a Terra called Candolchin being eighteene miles beyond it, above five of the clocke in the afternoone, where I lay that night. In this space I observed nothing memorable ; only I passed through the towne Chiavenna, in Latin Clavenna, situate Chiavenna. at the farther end of the valley Telina, standing in a valley of the same name, in which I travelled full twenty miles. This towne ministred some occasion of comfort unto me, because it was the first Protestant town that I entred since I went out of Italy, yet not wholly Protestant. For some part of it embraceth Popery, and heareth daily masse. The Protestants that are here professe the Calvinian not the Lutheran religion, who had a very learned Preacher when I was there, called Octavianus Mejus, who was brought up in Geneva, his parents being Italians of the city of Luco in Tuscanie. In this towne dwelt Joannes Curtabatus, of whom I have before spoken, who refreshed my heart with a cup of excellent wine. This towne is rich, and inhabited with many wealthy merchants ; also it hath great store of goodly vineyards growing about it. c. c. 11. 65 E CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Rough ways. The wayes both in the valley Telina some few miles before I came to Chiavenna, and also in the ascent of the valley Candolchin, are very offensive to foote travellers. For they are pitched with very sharpe and rough stones that will very much punish and grate a mans feete. I observed that the poore Alpine people dwelling in the mountaynous places of the Grison territory, doe send their children abroad into the high wayes with certaine hoddes tyed about their necks, to gather up all the horse-dung that they can finde, which (as I take it) serveth onely for the dunging of their Gardens. The like I saw many doe [p. 360.] in the valley Brembana, and in some few places of Lom bardy a little before I came to Bergomo. I passed through a delicate great meadow a little on this side Candolchin, contayning at the least forty acres by my estimation, which was a thing that I much wondred at, by reason that the countrey is so extreme stony and barren, invironed with such huge steepe mountaines on both sides, and for that the Terra is situate in a marvailous high place, having very high mountains both at the ascent unto it, and the descent. The houses in the poore Terraes of the Grisons that are situate about the mountaines, are so made, that both the endes and the sides doe consist of whole pine trees, compacted together in steede of stony wals, though in many places their walls are stony also, especially in their faire townes, as Chiavenna &c. A cheerful A certaine Priest of this country cheered me with very priest. comfortable wordes at mine Inn at Candolchin, because he saw I was a solitary man and a stranger. For he told mee that because the fare of some places of the country was hard and the ways bad, hee would endeavour with cheerfull termes to rowse up my spirits, and to be as merry as a solitary man could, because I travelled in as honest a country as any in all Christendome. For had I a thousand crownes about me, I might more securely travell with it in their country without company or weapon, then in any other nation whatsoever: affirming that he never 66 OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA heard in all his life of any man robbed in that country. This his speech was afterward confirmed unto me in other places : which if it be true, I attribute more to the honesty of this nation, then to any other that I could ever see, reade, or heare of under the cope of heaven ; but whether I should ascribe this their innocencie to the severitie of the lawes of their Country inflicted upon robbers, (whose examples perhaps may terrifie others, and deterre them from committing the like offences,) or to the inherent and natural vertue of the people I know not, onely this I say, [p. 361.] that I never heard of such rare honesty before in all my life, in any people whatsoever before or since Christ. I Observed in Candolchin and other places before I came thither, both in the valley Brembana and Telina, a strange kinde of wooden cuppes like pailes, in which they Wooden cups, bring up Wine to their Ghestes, with prety convenient pipes about a foote long, to powre out the Wine into the Glasse or cuppe, these are used also in most places both of the Grisons country and Switzerland. I departed from Candolchin about eight of the clock the next morning being Munday, and the two and twentieth of August, and came that night to a towne called Tossana situate at the foote of a hill, twenty five Tossana. miles beyond it, about seven of the clocke in the evening ; The language in the valley of Candolchin is Italian. After I was past Candolchin, I did continually ascend for the space of eight miles till I came to the toppe of a certaine high mountaine called Splugen mountaine. Betwixt all this valley of Candolchin, which beginneth a little on this side Chiavenna, and extendeth it selfe to the top of the foresaid mountaine, there runneth a very swift lake called Lir. I travelled sixteene miles in this valley of Candolchin. From the toppe of the Mountaine to the descent it is sixe miles. At the foot of the hill there is a town called by the name of the Mountain, viz : Splugen, which is wholy Protestant. From this place Splugen. forward all the Grisons speake Dutch. Here at Splugen I entered into a third valley of the Grisons country, 67 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES namely the valley of the Rhene, which is so called because a little arme of the noble river Rhene runneth through it. In this valley of Rhene I travelled tenne miles. The Rhene which runneth through this valley, flowes with such an extreme swiftnesse, that the water thereof in certaine places where it falleth downe from steepe cataractes, raiseth a certaine reaking mist to a great heigth, [p. 362.] which proceedeth from the greate violence of the torrent. From Splugen to another towne of the same name Westward it is a mile, from that to a towne called Sassam five miles, from Sassam to Tossana seated at the foote of a mountaine at the farther end of the valley of Rhene, five miles more. I meane not five miles of the Grisons A Grison mile country. But I reduce their miles to our English com- mfle7E"gM Putation> one of theirs being five of ours- M those foresaid towns professe the Protestant Religion. I observed a custome in this country that is not used (I thinke) in any place in Christendome, that whensoever a stranger or any other of the same country, doth aske one of them upon the way how many miles it is to any place, he will not answere so many, but will tell you in so many howers you may be there. Which yeeldeth a very uncer- taine satisfaction to a traveller, because the speede of all is not a like in travelling : For some can travell farther in one howre, then others in three. In many places of Rhetia, till I came into that part of it which is almost wholy Protestant, I saw many little Chappels built by the high way side (as in Savoy) tending to Superstition ; as the picture of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and sometimes of some Saints above the Altar. The trenchers in most places of this country are so strange, that although perhaps I shall seeme ridiculous to the reader to mention so meane a matter ; yet howsoever by reason of the noveltie of them, they shall not passe un mentioned. They are for the most part at the least an inch thicke, and as large in compasse as a cheese of my country of Somersetshire that will cost a shilling. The tyle of most of their houses is made of pieces of 68 Thick trenchers. OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA wood as in Chambery in Savoy, not of earth as in France, Italy, and England. The Windowes of their houses are exceeding little in all their Terraes and in most of their townes, the greatest part whereof are covered with little boordes in the outside. In sundry places of their country 1 observed divers [p- 363-] Castles and Forts of great antiquity built upon high gfff'fbrn rockes, and eminent hils. But now they are much ruinated, and of reparations : it is likely that these were built either by the followers of King Rhetus that inhabited this Country after he was ejected out of his Kingdome of Hetruria in Italy by Bellovesus the Gaule (as I have before said) or by the People of the country for meanes of defence against the armies of the Romans, that under the conduct of Julius Caesar and many other noble captaines of Rome, made themselves a way through this country by force of armes into Germany. They built a great multitude of little cottages upon the very toppes of the steepe Alpine Mountaines, as in Savoy, and have many little plottes there also, as in Savoy. Although the greatest part of this country doth yeeld very poore people : yet I have observed some few places passing wel furnished with all manner of necessary com- A wef modities for the sustentation of mans life : as Oxen and "ountn Kine, Sheepe, Goates, many goodly meadowes and pas tures, indifferent corne fields, and abundance of wood that groweth upon the sides of the Mountaines. Their drink is not beere, but wine, the greatest part whereof the valley Telina doth minister to the remoter places, as I have before said. Also they are competently stored with hempe, which they doe not strip with such laborious difficultie as we doe in England by the meanes of their fingers, but by certaine wooden instruments made for the same purpose that do very easily sever the stranne from the scale. Their fare is good in many places and very cheape. Amongst many dishes that come to their table Martelmasse beefe is very frequent. But seeing I am now come into that part of the Grisons 69 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES country which speaketh Dutch, I wil here interrupt my [p. 364.] description of it by the addition of a most elegant Latin Oration that I have annexed unto this discourse written in praise of the travell of Germany by that learned German Hermannus Kirchnerus, the author of the first Oration that I have prefixed before my booke, and according to my meane skill rudely translated into our mother tongue by my selfe : which although perhaps it may seeme unto some a meere impertinent matter to my present discourse : Rhetia a yet in regard that Rhetia is a member of Germanie, whose fountr"1 language a great Part or" i{ speaketh, and my first intro duction that conveighed me into this noble country of Italy, after my survay of some parts therof ; I hope the candid reader wil not miscensure me for inserting "this into my Observations, especially seeing the elegancy of it is such, that it cannot be but pleasant to all readers what soever, but more particularly unto travellers, & most of all unto those that either have already seene some parts of Germany, or intend hereafter to see it. As I for mine owne part have superficially observed some few principall Cities thereof, and determine by the gracious permission of the Almighty to see most of the famous Cities and greatest Princes Courts both of all the higher parts of Germany & the Netherlands, which are places that to an industrious traveller will yeeld infinite both experience and delight. To detayne thee long with preambles of praises of this most imperiall and renowned Region out of my little experience of the same, were a matter very super fluous, seeing this most eloquent Oration doth as lively paint her out in her true colours as ever Apelles did his Venus avaSvofiev>]. Onely the better to encourage thee to see her glorious beauty, whereof I my selfe have to my unspeakable joy and comfort perceived a little glimpse, I say with Kirchnerus, that Germany is the Queene of all other Provinces, the Eagle of all Kingdomes, and the Mother of all Nations. Therefore omitting farther intro ductions I present unto thy gentle and favourable censure this excellent Oration it selfe. 70 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY oration m praise of travel in Germany. Another Oration made by the foresaid Hermannus Kirchnerus, a Civil Lawier, Orator, and Poet, &c. And pronounced in the noble University of Marpurg above named, by a worthy Schollar of his Henry de Stangi, a Silesian, upon this Theme. That the travell of Germany is to be preferred before all other travels. F those things which seeme greatly to tend Hermann to the knowledge of common affaires, to forever's the information of a right judgement, to the wisdome of a civill life, and the perfect understanding of good counsels, are to be earnestly commended and diligently deli vered unto youth, which shall be hereafter advanced to the helme of publique authority : surely there is no reason why I should doubt but that the most laudable custom of travelling, and the desire of knowing the manners of forraine countries and nations, the lawes of Cities, and formes of common-weales abroad should be both esteemed very profitable and pleasant, and also be furthered to the uttermost with all manner of helpes, and accounted the most necessary thing of all others for youth, according to that excellent speech of Apollonius which is every where extant amongst the ancients concerning this matter, that a yong man ought to travell out of his country no otherwise than if he were destitute of house or home. Which custome of travelling if we have read to have beene at any time frequented and used of any nation whatsoever, certes we may most plainly perceive as it were at noone-tide that it is at this day most famously exercised by the men of our Germany, even by the common and almost daily endevour of our Princes and noble Personages that travell into farre countries, so that there is scarce found a man of any note and fame in the courtly life, in the politique conversation, and civill society, which hath not both learned the manners and languages of 7i CORYAT'S CRUDITIES forraine nations, and also seene abroade in the world the state and divers governments of Kingdomes, that hath not with eyes and feete made use of England, Italy, France, and Spaine, and observed whatsoever is memorable in remote nations, and worthy to be seene in every place of note. Germans' ]\fow as . no man doth doubt but that this custome of travelling our Qermanes travelling out of Germany beyond the Alpes ftmmended! and the Seas' is greatly to be commended especially if they prescribe unto themselves a just and laudable end of travelling : so againe who will not say but that this preposterous order of our men is justly to be condemned which they observe in the course of their travels, when as most of them after they have with great diligence sought out the Roane, the Seine, the Tyber, and the Po ; and not only curiously searched for the ruinous theaters of the ancient Romans, and the rubbish of their decayed build ings, but also crept into all the stewes, all the brothell houses, and burdelloes of Italy, after I say all these things, have so omitted the sight of the most beautifull Cities of Germany their country, the most elegant Townes, the well governed Common-weales thereof altogether unknowen unto them, that they are not able as much as to name the principall ornaments of Germany. Which thing truly is not only unworthy a Citizen that loves his country but also an argument of notable negligence, & most unbeseem ing a German man, not to know, not to see, not to search out Germany wherein he was borne and brought up, wherein he hath all his wealth and all his estate, and for whose sake (if neede should require) he ought not doubt to powre out his vitali bloud. And why so ? are you not all constrayned (my fellow Academicks) to subscribe to this my opinion that the knowledge of no nation is so necessary as the searching out of a mans owne country, and the manners thereof, and the right understanding of that common-weale whereof each of us is a part and member ? the Lamiae that are a certaine kinde of Monsters, are laughed at in the Poeticall fables, in that they were so 72 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY blinde at home that they could not see their owne affaires, could foresee nothing ; but when they were once gone from home, they were accounted the most sharpe-sighted and curious searchers of all others : so who doth not thinke that the eyes of our Germans that gadde into Italy, France, and I know not whither, are very ridiculous, when as by taking long voyages unto farre remote people, after they have curiously sought out all matters amongst them, are ignorant of the principall things at home, and know not what is contayned within the precincts of their country, and are reckoned altogether strangers in their native soile. What is there nothing (saist thou) at home that is worthy to be seene and knowen, and for whose sake a journey ought to be undertaken? I that am a stranger in mine owne country will contend with thee in this Oratorian field concerning this subject, and will produce most apparant reasons to prove that the travell of Germany is more excellent then of all other nations, and to be pre ferred before all others. Wherefore I intreate you to entertaine my Oration with gentle eares, yea I earnestly request and beseech you for the love sake of your country, to receive my speech with your wonted favour and indulgence, while I give you a tast of the principall ornaments of our common country. Therefore that my Oration may derive her beginning What travel even from this, I will aske this first question : how many meam- travellers there are that when they undertake any voyage do rightly understand what travell meaneth. Since many doe fondly imagine that it is nothing else then a certayne gadding about, a vaine beholding of sundry places, a transmigration from one country to another, whose feete doe only move from place to place, and whose eyes are conveighed from one field to another. Of whom thou mayest very rightly use that knowen speech of the Poet. The climate, not their minds they change, That sayling over every Sea doe range. But we will say that he is the man that visiteth forraine 73 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Kingdomes and doth truly travell, and that according to the censure of all learned men, the consent of Historians, and the opinion of politicians, he I say, who whither soever he directeth his journey, travelleth for the greater benefit of his wit, for the commodity of his studies, and the dexterity of his life, who moveth more in minde then body, who attayneth to the same by the course of his travel, that others doe at home very painfully and with great study by turning of bookes. Will you have me (my worthy Auditors) speake more plainly to you? it is travell that stirreth up wisdome, purchaseth fortitude, confirmes it being purchased, gives light unto us for the instruction of our manners, makes us from barbarous to be gentle and milde natured : it rooteth out a fond selfe love, it availeth to suffer labours, to undergoe dangers, and with a valiant and manly minde to endure them, and sheweth us the nearest way to the solid learning of all things. What need many words ? let travell be the plenti- full institution of all our life. For histories doe teach us that men of old time did travell to that end. So that Ancient Solon travelled into Asia, Plato into Egypt, Pythagoras travellers. -mto jtajVj tne Romans to Marselleis, Mithridates into Cappadocia, and others undertooke very long and tedious voiages to this end, that they might gather together the lawes and ordinances of their common-weale out of the divers decrees of sundry nations, and that the best of them, after they had gathered them, might convert them to the use of their country, that whatsoever excellent things they did reape abroade amongst others, they might bring them home, and at home instruct their countrymen therein. If thou undertakest the desire of travelling with that minde and intent, to what end dost thou goe forth of thy country? whither dost thou bend thy course? to what end dost thou travell with the swallow leaving thy nest ? doth not Praise of Germany in respect of the plenty and commodity of those Germany, things, by many degrees excell all other nations ? who as the Queene of all other Provinces, the Eagle of all Kingdomes, the Mother of all nations, doth shee not most 74 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY plentifully impart unto thee all those thinges which may tend as well to the happy institution of a common-weale, as to integrity of manners, purity of religion, and piety of life, the ornament of wit, and the elegancy of speech? for if thou desirest to know the formes of common-weales, and the governement of a Monarchic, if thou wouldest understand the manner of an aristocraticall rule, and of the popular state, where shalt thou better and more exactly learne these things then in Germany, which is as it were an abridgement of the world? pray goe with me (my courteous Auditors) and consider the most goodly Common-weales and Cities of our Germanic What I pray you, will you finde wanting in that most stately Common-weale of Strasbourg, in that most plentifull Norimberg, in most elegant Auspourg, in spacious Colen, in most beautifull Lubeke, in that worthily commended Breslaw? In which cities according to the testimony of Scaliger in his booke intituled of the praise of Cities, equitie her selfe doth reigne, all iniquity is banished, justice doth governe, for unjustice no place is left, good men are called forth with rewardes, and evill men called backe from vice and punishments. If thou desirest to behold the most happy state of an Empire that can be devised in the world, namely of our most sacred Emperour, our most potent Electors, our illustrious Princes, our Earles, Barons, Nobles, and other rankes knit together with a most admirable bond, thou shalt not see it any where but in Germany, but onely in Germany, I say. In' Germany thou shalt behold the steppes of the ancient Persian Empire, and a cer taine lively image thereof: in Germany, the power and liberty of the Grecians : in Germanie thou shalt observe the possession of the ancient Romanes. Wouldest thou with Cyneas the Ambassadour of Pyrrhus crave such a Senate of the Empire, wherein should be all Kings, all like to auncient Pyrrhus? In no place of the earth shalt thou finde it but onely in Germany. Wilt thou heare consultations of the weightiest matters of all the world? 75 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES No where shalt thou heare them but in the Diets of Germany. Wilt thou have Captaines of the great Empire mightier then the successors of Alexander himselfe ? No where shalt thou find it but in Germany. Dost thou crave the most famous Tribunall in the whole Empire, the shop of the auncient Roman justice, and as it were the Sessions of the old Amphictyones of Greece ? No where shalt thou behold it but in Germany. Good God, if for the behold ing of this most sacred meeting those ancient heads of the civill law could be recalled to the fruition of this vitali breath, Papinianus, Paulus, Ulpianus, Pomponius, Caius, Julianus, and all other sacred Masters of the lawes could returne into this world out of their ashes, truly I beleeve they would travell into the middle of Germany from the Elysian fields, yea I will say that Astraea her selfe the Goddesse of justice would descend with them from heaven to place her habitation there also amongst mortall men. But what shall I say of the other fruits of travell? where shalt thou more happily and studiously attaine to all the liberal sciences then in Germany, which doth excell the auncient Egyptians in the study of Geometrie, the Hebrews in Religion, the Chaldaeans in Arithmeticke, the Grecians in all arts, the Romans in discipline, and in variety of mechanicall trades, constancy, and fortitude, all other nations. Which the very strangers themselves how much soever they envy us, are constrained to confesse maugre their hearts. Bodin wrote this though he were very sparing of the German praise, the very truth it selfe wresting the speech from him, he wrote it I say, and proclaimed it of the Germans with an open voice, out of the Kingdome of France, Neither can any other man write otherwise of it. Let them behold so many learned The German Athenae in Germanie, so many noble Universities, as that universities. 0f Vienna in Austria, of Heidelberg in the Countie Pala tine, of Colen by the Rhene, of Prage in Bohemia, of Erdfurt and Jene in Thuringia, of Leipzick, of Rostock, Louan, Friburg, Ingolstat, Basil, Gripswald, Tubingen, Mentz, Wittenberg, Franckford, Konigsberg, Julia, in the 76 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY Duke of Brunswicks dominion, Strasbourg, Altorph. Let them also behold this our famous seate of all the Muses, which hath nourished that opinion of a most happy genius and nature amongst all strangers even from her first beginning, that even as Ammianus hath written of the University of Alexandria, that it never dismissed any from it but endewed with learning ; so out of this noble Academie there have sprung Counsellors for Kings over all the world, and for our sacred Emperor himselfe, and governors and teachers for all common-weales, Churches, and Schooles. What also shall I say of those other Universities like unto ours? unto whom I would not doubt but that all the Sages of the Grecians, all the wise Romans, and all the famous Orators would travell into Germany, if they should happen to enjoy the benefite of life againe. No where shalt thou find so many Archimedes, so many Vitruvii, so many Nasicae, so many Ciceroes, so many Horaces, so many Virgils, so many Scaevolae, so many Papiniani, as in Germanie. Which also Argyropylus the learnedst of the Grecians confessed at Rome in the Popes Court, when he cryed out that all the graces, all arts, and good letters were fled beyond the Alpes into Germany. The day would fail me if I would make a Catalogue of the most famous wits that are in this one Province of Hassia, and especially in this University wherein we live, how many and how great lights it doth yeeld that may compare with that admirable antiquity of the auncient Grecians and Romans. Here could I point out to thee with my finger Caians, Laelians, Mutians ; here Galens, here Platoes, here such as Socrates, here Tullies, here Virgils, here also (which is the most to be wished for thing of all) the Chrysostomi, the Epiphanii and Athanasii. Wilt thou go to know military discipline? where I Germans pray thee shalt thou finde the Schoole of Mars but amongst famous '" the Germans, amongst whom it was thought in former times that Mars himselfe dwelt ? for which cause Alexander that both in substance and name was great, very wisely 77 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES thought it was not good for him to provoke the Germans into the field. Also C. Caligula, and Augustus stoode in such feare of them that when they heard a rumour of their comming into Italy, they doubted much of their safety, so that both of them fled beyond the sea : what can be more gloriously spoken of the Germans Mars ? what more worthily reported ? no man by force of arms recalled the Gothes when they invaded Spaine, no man expulsed the Saxons when they surprized Brittaine, no man kept out the Vandals when they subdued Africk, no man repelled the Francks when they vanquished Gallia, no man re pressed the Ostrogothes when they conquered Italy. Most incredible hath been the strength of our warlike valour, and our military arts have been admired by all nations wherewith our Germany hath excelled in all ages, and with which it hath gotten the prize from all nations, and the Empire and praise of the victory even from the Romans themselves which were the conquerors of all other people. Most justly is Germany to be called the shop of Mars, which hath ministred most valiant Captaines, and expert souldiers and forces to all famous battels that were ever waged in any parts of the earth, from the time of the great voiage of Xerxes. For what skirmish, what fight, what notable campe was there ever in the field in the time of our forefathers without Germans ? what sea, what country is so remote unto whom the gleaves and halberts of our Germans are at this day unknowen? as for those warres which are waged at this day in the Netherlands and in Hungarie, are they not managed by the helpe and industry of our Germans? what sayest thou to the most mighty Tyrant of the east which most earnestly attempted with fire and sword to destroy the whole world, have not the armes of the German Mars brought him into those streights that he was compelled humbly to crave peace, and having craved it could hardly obtaine it? moreover in no place of the world are there to be seen stronger munitions, greater fortresses, better fortified Cities then in Germany. No where can a man see greater provision of 78 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY peeces of Ordinance, engins and warlike instruments then Famous forts in Germany. I could name unto thee the principall Forts, "* emaity- Castels, garrizons, and armouries of our most potent Dukes, Princes, and Common-weales over all Germany, whereof part I know with mine eies, and part have heard with mine eares. I could shew unto thee Vienna the most invincible Fortresse of Christendome, that hath beene so often assaulted by the frustrate attempts, and great enterprises of that most cruell enemy : I could point out unto thee Dresden a place of incredible strength and puissance : I could name Custrinum the strong seate of Brennus : I could speak of the fortifications and rampiers of Meidenburg : the wals, and lofty battelments and towers of Strasbourg : also I could mention the Castels and strength of Norimberg : the greatnesse of Colen : the puissance of Ulm : the force of Auspurg : withall I could make relation of this most auncient Province of the valiant Catti, which is strengthned with most invincible fortifica tions, even to the great admiration of the eyes and eares of all strangers : besides I could tell thee of a great many other strong fortifications of Germany, whose number doth exceed the gates of the Thebanes, were it not that in this place I make my speech unto those that know their country of Germanie more exactly then my selfe. I passe over the exercises of the frequent tilts and horsemanship used in the Courts of so many mighty Princes, I speake not of their manners and grave discipline which doe much confirme the science of military vertue. Goe thy wayes now, and see whether thou canst seeke for in any other part of the earth a greater opportunity of understanding warlike affaires. But perhaps thou wilt say that a man may reape more pleasure in the travels of Italy and France. How so I pray thee? for truly I see not, I understand not how that should be true. Whom will not the magnificence of Palaces in Germany delight, the beauty of so many royall buildings, and most artificiall architectures? which heretofore iEneas Sylvius an Italian borne, and the most learned of all the Popes when he 79 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES made his aboade in Germanie, affirmed that he could not sufficiently admire. The counterfaited and painted delights of Italy are much carryed about the world, but pray how can they compare with these our pleasures and commodities? those present themselves only to the outward eies and pleasure of the body : but these bring great pleasure of the minde accom panied with singular profite. Pray what can Italy, France, England, or Spaine shew unto thee that Germany hath The fertility not ? art tnou delighted with the pleasure of fields, the ...many. f^rt£|£ty 0f trees, the plenty of vineyards? thou needest not run into Campania for that purpose, or visit the Florentine gardens, or -goe beyond the Alpes to see the Orchards and famous Paradises of Cardinals. Germany will afford thee farre more elegant both gardens and fields not only of our soveraigne Princes and noble Peeres, but also of our most wealthy Citizens of Norimberg, Aus- pourg, and else where. The Rhene, and Neccar, will shew thee that abundance of vineyards, that plenty and excel lency of wine, the Mcene will yeeld thee that amoenity, and so will the Ister, that neither the Adriatique gulfe, nor the Seine, nor Tyber can compare with those places of Germany. What need I report unto thee our woods and groves, wherein nature her selfe doth take pleasure to inhabite? in what country shalt thou find the same more fruitfull, and better replenished with all pleasures & delights then in Germany ? the pleasure of hunting which many doe preferre before all other recreations of this life, thou mayest enjoy in Germany to thy very fill. Dost thou delight to behold the sea? and to see the ebbing and flowing of the armes thereof, to goe aboord great ships, and to exercise thy selfe with navigation? then goe to the maritime cities of lower Germany, and to their most elegant mart Townes. Desirest thou to know the fashions, habits, and languages of sundry nations? Germany will shew thee in the havens of Hamborough and the Baltical Cities, Russians, Italians, Frenchmen, Englishmen, Span iards, Polonians, Danes, Suecians, and also the farthest 80 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY Portingals. Besides so many plentiful! mines of copper, yron, silver, and gold, in Germany, in Bohemia, (which is also a great part of the German Empire) in Misnia, in Moravia, in Saxony, in Silesia : for the knowing whereof who would not be drawen from the farthest boundes of the whole world? I well know that Cornelius Tacitus would returne into Germany from the infernall parts, if the fates would permit him, that he might behold all these things, and illustrate them with new writings. Doe thou not passe over the most holsome and pleasant bathes of Germany, unto the which when Poggius the Florentine came, he thought that he was arrived at a new Paradise, in so much that he wrote that nothing in the whole compasse of the earth could be found more pleasant, more sweet, then the bathes of Baden : for he said that there was the seate of the Graces, the bosome of love, and the Theater of pleasure. Art thou delighted with most witty fabricks and inventions? In no place of the world shalt thou finde more witty engins and excellent peeces of worke manship, then in Germany. Which all strangers are constrained to graunt, in so much that they say, the Germanes have their wit at their fingers ends. By the Germanes wit the art of printing was first invented, of all arts that ever were as the most profitable, so the wittiest invention, so that it seemeth to be ascribed not so much to mortall men, as to the immortall God, which is mani fested by the testimony of a certaine Poet that saith thus. O Germany first foundresse of that skill Then which time passed hath nought more useful found, Teaching the Presse to ease the writers quill. To what end should I advance the other inventions of the Germans ? what shall I name unto you their Gunnes ? which although they were invented to the destruction of men, yet for the goodly invention they are worthily commended. The art of making clocks that were in the time of Clock making. Carolus Magnus brought into Germany by the munificence c. c. II. 81 F German antiquities. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES of the Persian Ambassadors, which at that time were a great miracle to our people, the East, and Persia her selfe that first gave them, having now received them againe from the hands and wits of the Germanes, doth greatly admire them, according as Augerius hath certified us. But perhaps thou wilt say that Italy will shew thee more auncient monuments, and more images of antiquity. Report I pray thee (for I desire to hear it) the ruines of auncient Theaters, the decayed pillars of the auncients, and the fields where Troy was, as Virgil speaketh. But (good God) Germany will present unto thee many more reliques of auncient things, which was a very flourish ing Kingdome with Cities and Villages above a thousand years before Rome was built. For what can Italy shew answerable to the antiquity of the German Trevirs? if thou dost looke upon the old ruines and mortar, the auncient stones that have continued there even from the time of the old Babylonian Ninus, doe present unto thee the most true signes of walles built with pitch and slime. If it pleaseth thee to behold the townes and buildings of the ancient Romans, looke upon Colen, Auspurg, and other most ancient Cities. If thou wouldest see tombe stones with auncient inscriptions and statues, thou hast the monument of Drusus, neare Mentz, upon a hill by the Rhene, which the auncient historians have so often men tioned. There is nothing in all the Italian antiquities that can be preferred before those of Germany. Can the sight of Cannae, of Trebia, and Thrasimenus, that are so famoused for Annibals victories and his slaughter of the Romans, more delight thee then the Rhene and Danubius, which for the space of three hundred years bare the brunt of the Roman forces ? Can those auncient places of Italy minister more pleasure unto thee where heretofore the Volsci, the Veientes, the Sabini, the Hetrusci, inhabited, then those, where the auncient conquerers of so many Kingdomes, and the vanquishers of Italy it selfe, even those victorious people of Ger manie, the Gothi, the Longobardi, the Catti, the Suevi, 82 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY the Sicambri, the Bructeri, the Angrivarii, the Bavari, the Treviri, the Nervii, the Nemetes, the Triboci, the Vangiones, the Ubii, the Frisii, the Cimbri, the Franci, and other innumerable most glorious nations dwelt ? Doth the memory of Scipio, Metellus, and Julius Caesar, more delight thee then the statues of most valiant Ariovistus, warlike Harminius, invincible Charles, couragious Roland, glorious Henry, and of other heroicall Worthies? but why doe I call up dead men to the stage? why doe I speake of those that lie in the graves ? admit that all these things so worthy to be seene and heard, were wanting unto us, yet the hospitality of the Germans, the excel- lentest vertue of all others (the praise whereof derived from their parents they doe most worthily maintayne) whom would it not incite to travell into Germany, whom would it not allure, whom would it not draw? which it is written the famousest amongst the auncient Romans to have done, namely Pliny, Tacitus, Julius, Augustus, Tiberius, who vaunted that he travelled nine times out of Italy into Germany. But what a kinde of solitarinesse was there then of old Germany, what an unshapen face, what a roughnesse, so that if it be compared with the present Germany, it seemeth to be made a golden and marble country out of a leaden and wooden, even as Sylvius hath testified, whose eyes the brightnesse of the Empire and the German nation did so dazell, that he wrote this to the men of his owne nation. Let us endevour that we may be called rather Germanes then Italians, but although we cannot prevaile to bring that matter to passe, yet howsoever let us direct our studies to that end, that we may alwaies obey that famous nation. Adde unto all these things the Germans faith and integrity, and the most safe seate of travelling. Italy is full of a thousand treacheries, of a thousand dangers, and Spaine also is as full of them, whereof a man may most truly use that speech. Mourning and dread in every place, And deaths fell image shewes her face. »3 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES man Persianambas- sadors visit Germany. Since therefore these things are true, why should any wonder that from the remotest regions of the southerne world the Antipodes, and those whom all the age of the Romans knew not, and whose being to have beleeved it was accounted a most haynous crime and deadly offence, have of late yeares arrived in Germany, after an infinite length of travell to see our most valiant Nether- landers ? Againe, why should any man wonder that not only in the time of the Empire of Charles the Great, but also no longer then seven yeares since, the Ambassadors of the King of Persia came to our most Soveraigne Prince Mauritius to Cassels (which Peter Ramus commended at Paris out of the Kings Professors chaire of the University, and which in his writings he stiled by the name of a second Syracusae where Archimedes dwelleth) being moved with the fame of so worthy a Prince, whom all forraine Nations and People doe admire and honour for the Phcenix of his time, and from thence to have travelled through the middle of Germany to our most invincible Emperour Rodolph. It is even incredible to be reported how much they admired the Cities and Townes of Germany, our Princes territories, and the large bounds of the Empire, the strong Cities and Fortresses. I thinke there are some in this company, that when they were commorant in this Province with our most noble Prince for some certaine dayes, and saw those Ambassadors, they heard how gready they commended the munition of Cassels, affirming that there was not the like in all Persia. With what wonder and astonishment they beheld the armoury, the rampiers and trenches there, how they observed the magnificence of the Palaces and Gardens, and how they commended the pompe and regall glory of the Court. For these things from their report came afterward to our eares. Moreover why should a man wonder, that men being so often publiquely sent from the innermost desarts of the Russians and Moschovites came into Germany to behold the glory of the imperiall Diet, the might of the Empire, the elegancy of the Cities, and the most noble institution of 84 IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY the common-weale. Also we understand by the report of Augerius Busbequius a most true Writer, that when as in the memory of our fathers, the Ambassadors of Solyman the great Turke came to Franckfort to the assembly of the Princes, being conducted thither through the middle of Germany, they were even amazed and astonished with wondering at the most populous Cities, the multitude of Castels, most beautiful! Provinces of the most potent Electors and Princes. Also it is manifest that the like hapned to the Polonians and Frenchmen, when they guarded King Henry out of the Kingdome of France through the middle of Germany ; so that they affirmed they then understood with what great power and glory Germanie did excell all other Kingdomes. An eloquent Let others therefore goe according to their affections panegyric. whither they list, let them travell into England, remaine and dye in Italy, let them waxe tawnie in Portingall, and be dyed with the Sunne and soile of Spaine, let them travell into France, saile into Scotland, and let others , againe goe to other places ; for mine owne part I have resolved that I will never alter my opinion, but will ever thinke that the travell of Germany is to be preferred before all others, and to be more profitable and pleasant then others : and as Plato is said to have given thanks to the Gods in that he was an Athenian born and not a Theban, so let us most worthily congratulate our good fortunes in that we are not strangers, but Germans borne. And surely I doe even promise my selfe (my gentle Auditors) that there is not one of you all but after he hath considered the reasons of this my opinion, and weighed my arguments with an equall and indifferent judgement, he will be of the same minde that I am, and approve my speech. We beseech the almighty God that is the founder of A prayer fir all Regions and Provinces, with all possible earnest Germany- prayers, that he would protect, save, and defend our common country Germanie, being the Mother and sove raigne Queene of all other Kingdomes, adorned with the imperiall roabe of dominion and glory of the Caesarean 85 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Majesty above all other Empires and Kingdomes, most purely illuminated with the light of Gods holy word above all other nations, decked with victories and most glorious triumphes, endowed with most mighty, happy, and wise Emperours, Princes, and Governours, enriched with all gifts of humane blessings and prosperity, against all the assaults of our enemies : and finally that he would embrace it even to the worlds end with the sweetnesse of his inexhausted goodnesse and clemency ; but most especially that he would everlastingly preserve in a most flourishing estate this Province of Hassia, which is the most beautifuD of all Germany, wherein I am a sojorner for learning sake, Hassia I say, which heretofore brought forth the most potent Macedonian Philip of Germany, William the most wise Solomon of Germany, and now the Prince Maurice the only miracle of all vertue and learning : also I beseech him that he would make our Church and Academie fruitfull like a fertile vineyard, and perpetually protect it against wolves and beares, and all the attempts of our adversaries, that we may sing and cry out with the Kingly Prophet, He hath not done thus to every nation. FINIS. 86 OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA HAving imparted unto thee this most excellent Oration [p- 366.] in praise of the travell of Germanie, the reading whereof cannot be but very delightfull unto thee, I will now returne unto that part of the Grisons country where- hence I digressed, even to Tossana, where I entred a Tossana. fourth valley which is called by the same name as the other immediately behind it, namely the valley of Rhene, because that river runneth through this also where it inlargeth it selfe in a farre greater bredth then in the other valley. Also some doe call it the valley of Curia from the citie of Curia the metropolitane of the country, stand ing in the principall and most fertil place thereof. I departed from Tossana about seven of the clocke in the morning, the three and twentieth of August beeing Tuesday, and came to Curia tenne miles beyond it, which is the head citie of the country (as I have before said) about one of the clocke in the afternoone. I observed many wooden bridges in this valley, made Bridges made of whole pine trees (as those of Savoy) which are rudely of pine trees. clapped together. One of those bridges is of a great length, about one hundred and twenty paces long, and sixe broad, & roofed over with timber. Also it hath foure very huge wooden pillars in the water. This bridge is made over the river Rhene, about five miles on this side the citie of Curia, over the which every stranger that passeth payeth money. I observed this country to bee colder by halfe then Italie, the ayre beeing heere as temperate as with us in England. The abundance of Peares and Apples in many places Abundance of of Rhetia, especially about the citie of Curia, is such that frutttnRhetia- I wondred at it : For I never saw so much store together in my life, neither doe I thinke that Calabria which is so much stored with peares, can yeeld more plenty for the quantitie or space of ground, then this part of Rhetia [p- 367-] doth. Their trees being so exceedingly laden, that the boughes were even ready to breake through the weight of the fruite. 87 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The Alpes on both sides of this valley are farther distant a sunder, then in the other parts of Rhetia that I had before passed, by meanes of which distance, the space betwixt them being exceedingly enlarged, doth yeeld many fairer meadowes then I saw in the other places of the country : amongst the rest I passed one very goodly and pleasant meadow about a mile on this side Curia, which in my opinion contained about two hundred Acres. My Observations of Curia, Commonly called Chur, the Capitall Citie of Rhetia. Chur. /~^ Uria is of some antiquitie, for it was built about the \^>t yeare after the incarnation of Christ 3 54. at what time Constantine the Emperour when he made warre against the Alemannes, lodged his campe in this valley, and in the same place where the citie now standeth, kept a kinde of court or Sessions for the debating of the common affaires, wherehence the citie being built a little after his departure, had the name of Curia, but it was often after that called by the name of Augusta Rhetorum or Rhetica, as I have before written in my notes of Turin. It is seated under an high Alpine Mountaine, and built in a triangular forme, having on the east and south the steep Mountaines, whereof those on the East are well planted with vine yards ; on the west and north side is a goodly spacious plaine, especially that on the North, wherin the river Rhene runneth, being about an English mile and halfe distant from the citie. It is invironed with a faire wall, [p. 368.] having three gates therein, and adorned with certaine pretty turrets that doe much beautifie the same. It was converted to the faith of Christ shordy after the first TheCathedral building thereof. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to Church. s jyicu-tir^ and was built by one Thello a Bishop of this city, in number the seventeenth, about the year 770. This Church belongeth to the Protestants, the whole citie indeed being Protestant (but of the Calvinist religion) saving onely some little part, which in a Church that is OBSERVATIONS OF CHUR built in the higher part of the Citie hath daily masses celebrated. In that Church I saw one very auncient monument of a certaine Bishop of this citie, but destitute of an Epitaph, so that the citizens could not tell me what his name was that lay buried there. Also I observed in the same Church many images, superstitious pictures, and Papisticall vanities, as an exceeding great and long picture of Saint Christopher, carrying Christ upon his shoulders, and the image of an Asse with extraordinary long eares, and Christ sitting upon him bare-legged and bare-footed. I was in the Bishops Palace which standeth in the higher part of the citie, beeing a very faire and goodly building, and of great antiquitie. For the Bishopricke of Curia The Bishopric is esteemed one of the antientest Bishopricks of all "fChur. Germany. For it beganne in the yeare 452. The first Bishop being one Asimo, who was one of the number of those Bishops that were assembled together at the Coun cell of Chalcedon in Greece. Since which time there hath beene a succession of some eighty Bishops unto him that was Bishop when I was there, whose name was Joannes Flugius, but a Papist. He lived not in the City, but in another place of Germany in voluntary banishment. For about some twelve moneths before I was in Curia, there was a tumult raised in the City, whereof I heard he was the principall Authour. Whereupon because he feared that the Citizens would have punished him, he went voluntarily into exile, so that now he liveth a very obscure and private life. There is great trafficke exercised in this [p. 369.] City, being the place where they lade and unlade their merchandise. For whensoever they send any merchan dise beyond the Mountaines, they lay two packes upon each horse. For they use only horses in this country, not carts, by reason of the narrownesse of the waies, as I have before said. And the same horses when they returne home, bring backe that noble wine that I have above mentioned of the valley Telina otherwise called Valtulina. I was in their Councell house, in the principall roome The Council whereof they hang the picture of the present Duke of Home- 89 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Saxony Christian the second. The reason why they so much grace him, is, because he was a great benefactor to the City when he passed that way into Italy. In this Councell house the Magistrates of the State which are sent from the townes of Rhetia, one from every Towne, doe keepe their Sessions thrise every yeare about criminal! and civill matters. They have two Councels, the greater and the lesser. The greater consisteth of threescore and four teene Magistrates, which deliberate and consult about publique matters touching the whole state. The lesser consisteth of fourteen Magistrates which determine matters concerning the city Curia only. Againe, the whole State of Rhetia is devided into three leagues, which are nothing else than Fraternities or Com munities that elect and send Magistrates for the execution The Rhetian of the affaires of the common-weale. These leagues Leagues. were contracted amongst themselves at several times for the better defence of the country against the forraine invasion of strangers, who before that con federation did often oppresse them with many villanies and enormous injuries. The first, wherein the Bishop of Curia, the Deane and Chapter, and the City are united together, was begunne and confirmed in the yeare 141 9. The second in the yeare 1424 in a towne called Trontz, and concluded by the Abbot of Disertinum, the Earle of [p. 370.] Masauc, and the Baron of Rezuns. At what time the Abbot added this condition, that the same league should not be made to the prejudice either of the Roman Empire whose Prelate he was, or of the Lordes of Milan whose Earle he was. The third and the last was concluded in the yeare 1470, amongst ten jurisdictions of those that live in a part of Rhetia called Prettigoia. And at last all these three leagues linked themselves together in one forme of union and confederacy for the better strengthning of their common-weale against the violent incursions of forraine forces. Moreover they are at this day united with the Switzers. He that will be farther instructed in the popular governement of the Grisons, let him reade a booke 90 OBSERVATIONS OF CHUR written by that learned Josias Simlerus of Zurich in Switzerland, who (as a learned man told me in Curia) hath written a peculiar Treatise of the common-weale of the Grisons. In this City there is a mint where they stampe money A mint in of gold, silver, and tin that serveth for the whole territory. Ciur- This mint I saw together with their armoury house, but I had not the opportunity to enter into either of them. Here was Magnentius (whom I have before mentioned in my notes of Lyons) proclaimed Emperour by his Souldiers against Constance the second sonne of Constan tine the Great, at what time the same Magnentius was general^ Captayne of the Roman legions in Rhetia, and afterward he slew the same Emperour Constance as he slept in his bed in a towne called Helena not farre from the Pyrenean mountaines. In the principall market place which is opposite to St. The principal Martins Church before mentioned, there is a goodly faire marketplace. conduit with a faire statue of an armed man standing upon the toppe thereof, a thing very excellently handled. The Citizens bestowed great charges that year 1608 that I was in the City in repayring this conduit, so that they [p. 371.] have greatly beautified it. I read these verses following written upon a rich citizens house of this City, even upon the outside of the wall over the dore. Deus. Stant dextra, laevaque undae, procede Viator transi, rumpe moras, anteriora vide. Viator. Due me, nee sine me, per me Deus optime, duci, nam duce me pereo, te duce salvus ero. Thus much of Curia. 1 Departed from Curia about sixe of the clocke in the morning the foure and twentieth of August being Wednesday, and came to Walastat a towne of the country of Helvetia, now called Switzerland, foure Helvetian Helvetia. 91 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES miles, that is, twenty of our English, beyond it, about seven of the clocke in the evening. The King of France hath built a most magnificent Palace in Rhetia, within a mile and halfe of the citie of Curia neare to the river of Rhene, where a French Ambassador made his residence when I was in the country, being sent to the state of the Grisons from the King of France. The end of my Observations of the Grisons Country. [P. 372.] The beginning of my observations of Helvetia, otherwise called Switzerland. He name of the first towne of Switzerland Ragatz. S^¥ W$iH tnat I entred is Ragatz, ten English miles beyond the citie of Curia. There Rhetia, and Helvetia doe confine. I travelled in Rhetia seventy three English miles be twixt Morbinium at the entrance of the country, & this towne of Ragatz at the The bounds entrance of Switzerland. This countrey of Switzerland is °fl™ttzer~ situate betwixt the Mountaine Jura, the lake Lemanus (which is otherwise called the Lake Losanna) Italy, and the river Rhene : and it is bounded on the East with the Earledome of Tyroll, on the West with Savoy and Bur gundy, on the South with the Coctian Alpes now called mount Senys (as I have before mentioned in my notes of Savoy) Lombardy, the Dukedome of Milan, and the Territory of Piemont on the North with the river Rhene. Againe, the bounds of Switzerland extend themselves about two hundred and forty miles in length, according to the computation of Caesar, which appeareth to be true at this day ; but in bredth it containeth not above eighty miles, though Caesar inlargeth the breadth of it to a greater distance. Within a quarter of a mile after I entred into Switzer land I passed through a very goodly meadow, which I thinke contained at the least five hundred acres. That day they mowed some part of the same meadow, and 92 land. OBSERVATIONS OF SWITZERLAND carryed away hay ready made out of some other part thereof. I wondred to see their hay harvest so late, being Late hay about two moneths later then with us in England. For harvest- that was Barthelmew day in Switzerland. But I attribute that harvest to the fatnesse and fertility of the ground. For I beleeve they have two hay harvests, one about that [p. 373.] time that ours is in England, and this I take to be their second hay harvest. The first Rhenish wine that I dranke Rhenish wine. was at Walastat, from which place downward, till I entred into Holland, I had continually Rhenish wine in all the Helvetical and German townes and cities. But not that only : for in some places of Switzerland I had good redde wine also : but after I was out of Switzerland I tasted no other wine but onely Rhenish. I departed from Walastat about three of the clocke the next morning being Thursday and the five and twentieth of August, and passed in a Barke upon the goodly Helvetian lake twenty English miles that day, and about seven of the clocke in the evening arrived at a solitary house by the water side, where I lay that night. The diet The diet of of Switzerland is passing good in most places ; for they Switzerland. bring great variety of dishes to the table, both of rost and sodde meates : and the charge is something reasonable ; for my Spanish shilling did most commonly discharge my shot when I spent most. This Helvetian lake that runneth through a good part of Switzerland betwixt the Alpes, is in many places of a great breadth, at the least two English miles broad. Our barke passed one wooden bridge made over this lake, of an extraordinary length, the longest that ever I saw, even as long as the lake is broad, viz, two miles, so that it joyned together both the bankes of the lake. I departed from that solitary house about tenne of the clocke that night in the same barke, and came to Zurich fifteene English miles beyond it, about foure of the clocke the next morning being Friday, where I solaced my selfe all that day, and the better part of the next day with the learned Protestants of the citie I passed thirty five 93 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [P- 374-] Zurich. A pleasant site. English miles upon the Helvetian lake betwixt Walastat and Zurich. My observations of Zurich, in Latine Tigurum, the Metropolitan Citie of Switzerland. SUch is the antiquity of this citie, that it is thought it was built in the time of Abraham (which was about two thousand yeares before the incarnation of Christ, and thirteene hundred yeares before the foundation of Rome) as Rodolphus Hospinianus that glittering lampe of learn ing, a most eloquent and famous Preacher of this citie tolde me ; together with two more, Solodurum an other faire city of Switzerland, & Trevirs in the Netherlands, which by reason that they were built about one time are called the three sister cities of Germany. In the time of Julius Caesar this citie was but an obscure village : so that he called it Pagus Tigurinus, but in continuance of time it grew to be a beautifull citie. It is most delicately seated in a very fertile soile that yeeldeth great plenty of corne and wine. Also it is most pleasantly moystened with water, partly with the noble Helvetian or Tigurine lake that washeth one side thereof, being of a goodly breadth, almost two English miles broad ; partly with the river Sylla which runneth by the west side of the city, into which the ashes of Witches, Sorcerers, and Heretiques are cast, after their bodies are burnt, as I will hereafter farther declare in my notes of this citie ; and partly with the pleasant lake Limacus mentioned by Caesar. This is derived out of the Tigurine lake, and runneth through the middest of the citie, so that it maketh two severall cities the greater and the lesser : having three faire bridges over the same, but built with timber, where the citizens doe The Lake of usually walke. This lake imparteth two speciall com modities to the citie, the one that it yeeldeth abundance of fish, and those passing good ; the other that it carrieth many pretty little Barkes, and such like vessels of a meane burden that serve for the conveying of corne, and many other necessaries forth and backe for the use of the citizens. 94 Zurich. [P- 375-] OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH In this lake they have two great wooden wheeles neare to the bridges, each by a severall bridge, made in the forme of water-mils, which are in continuall motion, so cunningly and artificially composed, that they doe incessantly spout out water through a great multitude of pipes. Truely it is a very delectable sight to beholde. Likewise I observed that upon both the sides of the lake which extendeth it selfe very near fifteene English miles in length, there groweth great abundance of delectable vineyardes. This city is walled round about with very goodly wals, Goodly walls. built with exceeding strong stone of great antiquity, and beautified with faire battlements. Also there are sixe very magnificent and stately gates in the wals, built wholy with square stone, and made in the forme of strong bulwarkes, which doe greatly beautifie the citie ; and they are gar nished with the armes of the citie displayed thereon, which are two Lyons and a coate of white and blew. In these wals are many strong and auncient Towers, which served heretofore for fortifications against the hostile force, whereof sixe are in that part of the wall which is in the west side of the citie, being built with a pretty kinde of stratagematical invention. For the first of these sixe is so artificially contrived, that some part of it runneth a litle into the wall, so that almost the whole Tower butteth out from the maine wall into the ditch adjoyning to it, saving that little which is inserted into the wall. The next Tower entreth farther into the wall, and so every other by degrees one after another farther and farther till the last, which is the sixth, is inserted wholly into the wall, that no part of it at all butteth out towards the ditch. A certaine learned young man of the citie called Marcus Buelerus, untp A learned whom I was exceedingly beholding for the sight of most ^"' e' of the principall things of Zurich (being appointed to [p. 376-] keepe me company by the meanes of that singular learned man Rodolphus Hospinianus) tolde me, that the reason why these Towers were built after such a strange and extraordinary forme, was this, because if the towne should happen to be assaulted or besieged by the enemy, the 95 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The lake of frogs. presidiarie souldiers which for the defence of the citie should watch in those Towers, might the more commodi- ously see one another, and so give watch-word to each other as occasion required. Hard by the wall where these foresaid Towers are built, there runneth a little muddy lake, which by the auncients was called the lake of frogs, which name it continually retaineth even to this day, by reason of the great abundance of frogs therein. There is a marveilous pleasant walke for the citizens to walke in hard by that lake. Also there are five more of those Towers made in other parts of the wall, so that in the whole wall there are eleven Towers, and five Gatehouses or Bulwarkes before mentioned, which doe yeeld a speciall grace to the whole Citie. About the East-side of the Citie, unto the which from the lower parts you have a pretie easie ascent, there is another exceeding pleasant The Trench, and delectable greene walke hard by the Trench (for the whole wall of the Citie is invironed round about with a Trench) of a quarter of an English mile long. That part of the Trench is a very pleasant greene, where the Patricians and Gentlemen of the Citie doe keepe Deere, having built there sundry little pretie houses wherein they use to feede them with hay in the winter time. The Citie hath his name of Zurich from two King- Zurich signi- domes ; for the Dutch word Zurich signifieth two pet twocities. Yfv&g&oine'i : the reason thereof is this, because in times past one part of it, even that which is on the farther banke of the River Limacus, belonged to a certaine Kingdome called Turgovia, which retaineth that name to this day, part whereof belongeth to the state of Zurich, the other part which is on the hither banke of the river belonged to a Kingdome or Province called Ergovia, which yet keepeth his name, and now belongeth to the Tigurines. Also the Latine name was heretofore Turegum, before it was called Tigurum, and it was so called, Quasi duorum regum civitas. That name of Turegum was very auncient, for so it was called in the time of Julius Caesar as well as Tigurinus pagus. For testimonie whereof this verse was 96 [P- 377-] OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH heretofore found in one of the gardens of the Citie, as my foresaid friend Marcus Buelerus told me, being written there by the appointment of Julius Caesar himself, and continued there a long time after, even this. Nobile Turegum, multarum copia rerum. There are foure Churches in the Citie, whereof the fayrest Cip'c~ °f , was built by Clodoveus King of France, and dedicated to s' j>ezuia Saint Felix, and Saint Regula, by whose names it is called at this day : These Saints, Felix and Regula, are highly esteemed amongst the Tigurines, but not in that super stitious manner as Saints are amongst the Papists : the reason why the Tigurines doe honour them, is, because they were the first that preached the Gospel in the Citie, as my foresaid friend Buelerus told me, and for their bold confession of the Christian Religion were martyred in the Citie in one of the first persecutions of the Primitive Church : their manner of death was beheading. For the place where they were beheaded was shewed me neere to one of their Bridges on the farther side of the Limacus, viz. a very auncient faire building, which is called in Latine aquatile templum, because it is built altogether in the Limacus : this place was heretofore in time of Paganisme a temple of idolatrie, but now it is altogether alienated from holy and Religious uses, though it bee continually called by the name of a Temple, and serveth as a publicke house for secular affaires. Without the edifice, almost round about halfe the compasse, there is a pretie walke paved with stone, the edge whereof is gar nished with ten huge stonie Pillars. In this place three [p. 378-] Martyrs suffered Martyrdome together : Namely the fore- Three said Felix and Regula who was his wife. The third was martyrs. a Priest called Exuperantius. Two of these three, viz. Felix & Regula, craved before their execution, that they might be buried in a certaine place of the Citie that they themselves appointed ; which I saw in this foresaid Church, where there is a plaine Stone laid over their bodies. The like Miracle is reported of them as is written c. c. n 97 g CORYAT'S CRUDITIES of St. Denis in France, as I have before mentioned, that they carried their heads in their hands after they were strooken off from their bodies, to the place where they desired to be buried. How true or false this is, I will not dispute the matter, because I never read the Historie in any authenticke writer, onely I heard it of the learned men of the Citie. In the Cloyster of this foresaid Church of Saint Felix and Regula, I saw to my great comfort the Sepulchres of Sepulchers of sundry famous and learned men, who were famous men. singUlar ornaments and most glorious bright-shining Lampes of Christs Church, since the reformation of Religion began in Switzerland, and such as by their holi- nesse of lire, sinceritie of doctrine, and the manifold Monuments of their most learned workes, have infinitely benefited the Church of God, and purchased themselves eternitie of name till the worlds end. These are the men whose bodies lie enterred in this Cloyster, Peter Martyr the Vermilian, Henricus Bullingerus, Rodolfus Gualterus, Theodorus Bibliander, Conradus Gesnerus, Ludovicus Lavaterus, Josias Simlerus, Joannes Gulielmus Stuckius, &c. Truely it grieved me to see so many rare men so meanely buried. For none of them had any more than a flat stone laide upon them without Epitaph, or any maner of inscription to preserve them from oblivion ; in so much that a stranger cannot know one Sepulchre from another, except one of the Citie shew him the particulars. Surely [p- 379-] the memorie of these worthy men would quickly be extinguished among the Tigurines, if they had not in their life time immortalized the same by their learned writings. For the Tigurines honour none of their citizens that are buried in the citie, of what facultie, dignitie, or merit soever they are, either with faire monuments, or beautified by Carolus Magnus, who upon the yeare 810 bestowed great charges upon the same. For a monument of whose imperiall munificence the Tigurines have erected a goodly stonie statue to the honour of his name in the South side of one of the towers of the Church, which is therehence called the tower of Carolus Magnus. This 98 OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH statue is made according to the full proportion of a mans bodie with a golden Diademe upon his head, a Scepter in the right hand, and a golden sword in the left. The second Church is dedicated to Saint Peter, whereof Church of part is reported to be of that antiquitie, that it was built " eta' in the time of Abraham, and at the first building thereof was consecrated to the worship of the Paynime gods : for the lower part of it toward the foundation argueth the ancientnesse thereof, being built in the outside with pointed diamond work like unto certain buildings that I observed in Italie, as I have before mentioned. The citizens were bestowing great charges in repairing the steeple of the Church when I was in Zurich. The third is the Abbesse Church which Ludovicus King of Germanie, and the nephew of Carolus Magnus founded in the yeare 853. neere unto which he built a faire Nunnerie, whereinto none were admitted but onely noble women. Both the Church and the Nunnery were built indeed by the appoint ment of the foresaid King Ludovicus, but Rupertus Duke of Alemanny disbursed the greatest charge thereof, and Ludovicus contributed something to the same. The first Abbesse was the Lady Hildegardis King Ludovicus daughter. This Nunnery is now converted to a Schoole [p- 38°-] which hath beene a most fruitfull seminarie of many mne,J .... „ . , J converted to , excellent learned men. Ex quo ludo tanquam ex equo sc/,00^ Trojano (to use * Ciceroes words that he spake of Isocrates schoole in Athens) multi eruditissimi viri prodierunt. For this schoole hath beene the nurse of all the famous Tigurine divines that have florished in this citie, and so ennobled the same by their learned writings since the reformation of religion began. Herein are ever brought up 16 striplings of the most exquisite and pregnant wits that can be selected out of the whole citie, and when they have accomplished the foure and twentieth yeare of their age, they are transplanted therehence, and enter into the Ecclesiasticall function. In all that space they are brought up in the studie of humanity and divinitie at the * 2 Lib. de Orat. 99 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Gaspar Waserus a famous traveller. [p. 381.] Armoury of Zurich. Weapons used by the Helvetiansagainst the Romans. publike charge of the citie. The fourth and last Church is that which heretofore belonged to the Predicatores or Dominican Friers. I was in their armory unto the which I had accesse by the meanes of a worthy learned man of the citie, a great professor of eloquence, a singular linguist. For he spake seven languages, being very skilfull in the Hebrew and Greeke tongues, and a famous traveller. For besides Italy, Germany, and France, which he had well travelled over, he had been also in England, Scotland, and Ireland, a man of so rare and excellent gifts, that he hath attained to that which the Grecians call eyxvicXoiraiSelav, that is, an exact knowledge in the seven liberal sciences. His name is Gaspar Waserus. When I came afterward to Frankford at the time of the Mart, I saw a most singular Latine Oration made by him upon the life and death of that famous Pastor of Zurich, Joannes Gulielmus Stuckius, who died in this citie not long before my being there. This foresaid Waserus sent a scholer with me to the Tigurine Prefect, a noble man of the citie, whose name was Hortmannus Eselerus, who used me very graciously, discoursed with me in Latin, sent a Mandato under his hand to the keeper of the armory to shew me the same. Truly I have seene farre greater armories then this, as that of Milan, but especially those of the Arsenall of Venice. Also our owne in the Tower of London yeeldeth more store of munition then this : but never in my life did I see so well a furnished place for the quantity. Amongst the rest of those things that this Armory doth present, it yeeldeth more notable antiquities then ever I saw in any armorie before. For heere I saw those1 arrows which the ancient Helvetians used in the time of Julius Caesar, when they fought with the Romanes. They are very short, but exceeding big, being above two inches in compasse, and headed with great three-forked heads. Of these arrowes I saw a great quantity : Likewise the banners & ancients that the Helvetians displaied in the field against the Romans, which are almost eaten out with antiquity : And OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH many of the Romans ensignes with their armes in them, even the eagle, which the Helvetians wonne from them in fight. These banners are something lesse then those that are used in this age. Also I observed many shields which they used in their skirmishes with the Romanes, being made of sinews, one whereof I saw exceedingly mangled, and hackled with stroakes of swords, &c. All these things are shewed in one of the higher roomes of the Armory. For it consisteth of many faire roomes most curiously kept. Also there is shewed another most worthy monument in the same roome, even the sword of William Tell an Helvetian of the towne of Swice, who about some three hundred years since was the first author of the Helveticall confederation which hath been ever since retained in their popular government, by reason of a certaine notable exploit that he atchieved. Therefore I will tell a most History of memorable history of Will Tell before I proceede any William TelL further, being very pertinent to this purpose, which was this, as I both heard it in the Citie, and afterward read it in the third booke of Munsters Cosmography. When as [p- 382.] the Germane Emperours being the Lords of the principall Cities of Helvetia constituted forraine Prefects and rulers about three hundred yeares since as their deputies over three townes, especially above the rest, namely Sylvania, otherwise called Underwald, Urania, commonly called Uri, and Swice, it hapned that the Prefect of the towne of Swice behaved himselfe very insolently, abusing his authority by immoderate tyrannizing oyer the people. For amongst other enormous outrages that he committed, this was one. He commanded one of his servants to compell all travellers that passed such a way, to doe Travellers reverence to his hat that was hanged upon a staffe in the compelledtodo high way. The people unwilling to offend the Magis- ^at trate, did their obeysance unto the hat. But one amongst the rest, even this foresaid William Tell, being a man of a stout courage, refused to doe as the rest did. Where upon he was brought before the Magistrate, who being grievously incensed against him for his contumacie, CORYAT'S CRUDITIES injoyned him this pennance : that he should shoote an arrow out of a crosse-bow at an apple set upon his sonnes head that was a little child, whom he caused to be tied to a tree for the same purpose, so that if he had fayled to strike the apple, he must needs have shot through his sonne. This he commanded him because this Tell was esteemed a cunning archer : At the first he refused to doe it : But at last because he saw there was an inevitable necessity imposed upon him, he performed the matter greatly against his will, and that with most happy successe. For God himselfe directing the arrow, he shot him so The apple cunningly, that he strooke off the apple from the childs cunningly shot nead without any hurt at all to the child. And whereas by Tell. ^e had another arrow left besides that which he shot at his sonne, the Prefect asked him what he meant to do with that arrow : he made him this bould and resolute answere. [p. 383.] If I had slaine my child with the first, I would have shot thee through with the second. The magistrate hearing that, commanded him to be apprehended, and carried away in a barke. And when he was come betwixt the towne of Urania, and a certaine village called Brun, having by good fortune escaped out of the boate, he ranne away with all possible expedition over the difficult places of the mountaines, where there was no common way, and so came to a place neere to the which he knew the tyrant would passe, where he lay in ambush in a secret corner of the wood till he came that way, and then shot him through with his other arrow. It hapned that this Tell did weare the foresaid sword about him when he atchieved these worthy actes, in regard whereof the Switzers have ever since that time hanged up the same in their Armory for a most remarkable monument, though me thinks it had beene much better to have reserved the arrow with which he shot through the tyrant, then the sword that he wore Tell's exploit then. This noble exploit was the first originall of the the °™&nal. °f Flelveticall confederation. For shortly after these matters confederation were acteoo those three foresaid townes of Underwald, Uri, and Swice united themselves together in a league by a OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH solemne forme of oath about the year 13 16. to the end to shake off the yoake of those forraine tyrants. And after ward the other Cities of the Province imitated them, so that in the end all the Cities of Helvetia combined them selves together in a league of unity, which though it hath beene often assayed since that time to be dissolved and violated by the forraine forces of mighty men, as by some of the German Emperours, by Leopold, and Fredericke, brothers and Dukes of Austria, by the Earles of Kyburg, &c. yet it hath continued firme and inviolable to this day. As for the name of Switzers it grew upon this foresaid occasion, even because the above mentioned William Tell the first author of this league was borne in the towne of Swice. For before that time all the inhabitants of the country were called Helvetians. Having now reported [p. 384.] this notable history, which I could not conveniently omit, I will return againe to the armory. I saw also in the -dn Ancient foresaid higher roome, an Ancient that the Switzers got cTJ-^Dafe in the field from that famous Charles Duke of Burgundy. 0f Burgundy. For there were most bitter warres waged betwixt the Helvetians and this Duke Charles for the space of three yeares, in which space they fought three very hot battels in as many severall places, the Helvetians ever carrying away the glory of the field from him, and in the last skirmish about the City of Nancey in Lorraine they slew him (after he had lived three and fortie yeares, one moneth, and five and twentie daies,) with three grievous wounds, upon the Epiphany which we commonly call twelfe day, Anno 1477. But to returne once more to this higher roome of the armory ; besides these foresaid antiquities, heere I observed a marvailous multitude of costlets, and head peeces, and a great deale of complete armour of proofe, for the whole body, which is so finely disposed in order, and so elegantly kept, that it yeeldeth a wondrous faire shew. At the upper end of this roome I saw two artificiall men Two artificial standing a pretie distance from each other, even at the men m armour. corners of the roome, armed with their complete armour 103 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [p- 385-] All sorts of ordnance. Arms for 10,000 men. of proofe, and crested helmets upon their heads, which a stranger at the first entrance of the roome would conjecture to be living, and very naturall men standing in their armour; this also giveth no small grace to the roome. In another roome I saw most terrible swords made accord ing to the imitation of those that the ancient Helvetians used in their warres against Julius Caesar, being two-edged, and of a great length, above two yards long, having many steelen pranges, or sharpe hookes at the sides. In another roome I saw onely speares and launces, whereof there was a goodly company. Againe in another, axes and mattocks for pioners to use about digging of trenches. In the lowest roome of all, which is the fourth, I noted an exceeding multitude of pieces of ordinance of all sorts, as culyerins, demiculverins, demicannons, sacers, basiliskes, &c. whereof some were taken as trophies from the foresaid Duke of Burgundy, being indeed pieces of admirable beauty and value, adorned with his armes, and many curious borders and works contrived in the same. Amongst the rest I saw one passing great murdering piece, both the ends thereof were so exceeding wide, that a very corpulent man might easily enter the same. This also was wonne in the field from the same Duke. Besides, I saw seven huge and very sumptuous brasen pieces equalling at the least, if not exceeding the length of the longest piece I saw in the Citadell of Milan, above named. All these things I saw kept very daintily, and in passing good order. Although this armoury be well able to arme ten thousand men, yet if there should happen any occasion of warres, they neede not use any of it : because every private man of the citie, together with the rest in the other townes, villages, and hamlets of the country are privately very well furnished in their owne houses : onely if they hire any strangers then they use it, but not else. The Tigurines are able to furnish fortie thousand armed men in their whole terri tory ; but the Citie it selfe armeth two thousand onely and no more. Thus much of the Armoury. 104 OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH I Saw their campus Martius, where both in ancient times The Campus they were wont to muster their souldiers, and so do at Martlus- this day. It is a very goodly greene plaine, where I observed five exceeding massy pillars of stone, which serve only for this purpose, that souldiers may in the time of muster discharge their peeces at them for the better triall and proofe of them. I noted every one of the pillars to be much battered with the force of their bullets. There are two prisons in the City, whereof one standeth [p. 386-] in the water, being built in the manner of a Tower, unto Two prisons. the which none can come but by water : herein capitall offenders and debtors are kept. The other is one of those sixe Towers in the westerne wall of the City already mentioned, unto which they are committed that have done some small and veniall crime. There is one very delectable greene in an eminent and A delectable high part of the City, where there grow many goodly ®'eew' trees that doe make a pleasant grove. Here stand many stony tables of a convenient bignesse with benches about them for their archers to sit at their refection, after they have exercised themselves with shooting, which is an exer cise much used amongst them. Neare unto this place dwelt one of their Consuls when I was in Zurich. For they have two Consuls in the City, which doe not change every yeare as the Romans did, but when they are once elected into the Consulat, they keepe that consular dignity while they live, except upon some just desert they are degraded. Their Lictores or Serjeants doe weare party-coloured cloakes, which are of a blew and white colour according to the armes of the City. Their houses both publique and private are very faire. Their private houses of a goodly heigth, many of them foure stories high. Their matter of building is partly free stone, and partly timber. For they have no bricke at all. The habits of the Citizens doe in some things differ Attire of the from the attyre of any nation that ever I saw before. For cttl%ens- i°5 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES all the men doe weare round breeches with codpeeces. So that you shall not finde one man in all Zurich from a boy of ten yeares old to an old man of the age of a hundred yeares, but he weareth a codpeece. Also all their men doe weare flat caps and ruffe bandes. For I could not see one man or boy in the whole City weare a falling band. [p. 387.] Many of their women, especially maides doe use a very strange and phantasticall fashion with their haire that I never saw before, but the like I observed afterward in many other places of Switzerland, especially in Basil. For they plait it in two very long locks that hang downe over their shoulders halfe a yard long. And many of them doe twist it together with prety silke ribbands or fillets of sundry colours. Strange beds. The beds of the Innes of this City and of all the other Helvetian and German Cities are very strange, such as I never saw before. The like being in the private houses of every particular Citizen as I heard. For every man hath a light downe or very soft feather bedde laid upon him which keepeth him very warme, and is nothing offen sive for the burden. For it is exceeding light, and serveth for the coverled of the bedde. In the refectory of that Inne where I lay which was at the signe of the two Storkes, there is a stove, such a one as I have before mentioned in my Observations of Padua, which is so common a thing in all the houses of Switzerland and Germany (as I have before said) that no house is without it. I found them first in Rhetia, even in the City of Curia. Fat soil. The soile round about this City is so exceeding fat, that it yeeldeth wonderfull plenty of corne, which is every weeke sold here in so great abundance that it doth not only suffize for the maintenance of the City, but also is communicated to their neighbouring Townes, being conveighed unto them partly in Barkes upon the Helvetian lake, and partly with carts and upon horses backs. Also the City is served with such passing store of provision of all sorts whatsoever, that a man may live as cheape here as in any City of Switzerland or Germanie. For I observed ro6 OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH at my Inne, which was at the signe of the two Storkes, more variety of good dishes then I did in any Inne in my whole journey out of England, our ordinary being sixe battes, that is, fifteene pence English. Every bat counter vailing two pence halfe peny of our English money. About an English mile directly beyond the Citie West- [p. 388.] ward, I saw a place where malefactors are punished. placf "f Which is a certaine greene place, made in the forme of a Pumshment- pit, neere unto the which there standeth a little Chappell, wherein some Clergie man doeth minister ghostly counsell unto the offendour before he goeth to execution. In that Chappell I sawe wheeles. If they should happen to tremble so much that they cannot stand upright (as some times offendours doe) they are punished in the Chappell. As about some fourteene yeeres before I was at Zurich, three Noble Tigurines were beheaded in that Chappell because they were so inclined to trembling that they could not stand upright. The punishments that are inflicted upon offendours are divers, in number five, whereof the Five first is beheading, which punishment they onely do sustaine punishments. that are incestuous men or high-way robbers. The second is the Gallowes, upon the which those are executed that commit Burghlarie or burne houses. The third is the water, which incestuous women doe suffer, being drowned therein. The fourth is the fire wherewith Witches, Sor- Witches burnt cerers, and Heretickes are punished ; and after their bodies wtthfire- are burnt, their ashes are cast into the River Sylla afore said. The fifth and last punishment is wheeling, which is onely for murderers. This Citie hath suffered great alteration and change of Governement. Heretofore it was governed many yeares by the Dukes of Almannie or Suevia till about the yeare 1083. it was againe freed from them. After that, about the yeare 1136. it was recovered againe by Fredericke Duke of Suevia, who was afterward made Emperour of Rome, and excluded Conrad Duke of Zaringia out of the possession of Zurich. About the yeare 1336. on the seventh day of June, there rose a a sedition in sedition in the Citie, so that the whole Senate was removed the city. 107 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES or rather expulsed out of Zurich, and another substituted [p. 389.] in their place, which caused great tumults and confusion in the Citie. For there were many Noblemen and Gentle men of the Senate, which being united together by a mutual affinitie, governed the whole state according to their pleasure, and executed many unjust and wrongfull judgements to the great prejudice and oppression of the Citizens. At what time the greatest part of the old Senators retired themselves to a place called Rapperswyl to John Earle of Habspurg. For the Tigurines slew one of the Earles of Habspurg, for whose death John aforesaid that succeeded his father in the Earldome, determined to be revenged upon the Citizens. Whereupon certaine Souldiers that promised the Earle to betray Zurich to him, approched privily by night to the Citie. But the Tigur ines being forewarned of the conspiracie, very providently prevented the matter, and slew many of the souldiers, tooke the Earle prisoner, and tortured the traytors with the torment of the wheele, in the yeare 1350. About some Zurich two yeares after that, Albert Duke of Austria besieged besieged by Zurich both with the best forces he could make of his f J . -u e owne, and the auxiliaries of the Earle of Wirtemberg, and of Austria. , t» • 1 r n -n „. _. . -°r the Bishops of Strasbourg and Basil. The Cities of Berne and Friburg aided him also. But the Tigurines being confederated with the inhabitants of the Townes of Swice, Underwald, Uri, and Lucerne defended themselves very valiantly against their enemies, till at last there was a peace concluded on both sides, with condition that the Tigurines should set John of Hapspurg at libertie. Many other bitter brunts also this Citie hath often endured both before the time of the confederation and since, having beene tossed to and fro from one Lord to another, as if shee had beene Dame Fortunes tennis ball. But at this day by the gracious indulgence of the heavenly powers, it enjoyeth great peace and a very halcedonian time with the rest of the Helveticall Cities under that happie league of union, [p. 390.] being subject neither to King nor Kaysar. And if warres should happen, it hath so fortified it selfe in time of peace 108 OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH with store of munition and provision for warfare, that it is well able to defend it selfe against any forraine forces. Here might I make mention of the forme of their Aristocraticall state, their severall and distinct Magistrates, the manner of the election of them, and such other memor able particulars touching the administration of their commonweale. But I must needes confesse I did not A confession. use such curious inquisition for these matters as I might have done : contenting my selfe rather with these foresaid matters (which I learned partly by the observation of mine own eies, partly by the instructions of my learned friend aforesaid Marcus Buelerus ; and partly by reading of Munsters Cosmography, unto whom I acknowledge my selfe beholding for some of these above mentioned histories) then with the exact knowledge of their govern ment, which I could not possibly attaine unto by reason that I made my abode there, but a day and halfe. Where fore I intreat thee (gentle Reader) to pardon me though I cannot informe thee of their aristocratie according to thy expectation, promising thee that I will as well as I am able supply that in my next journey into this country (for I determine by Gods heavenly assistance to see hereafter all the thirteene principall townes of Switzerland) which I have now omitted in the observation of their government. I received much kindnesse in this Citie of one Master A kind Thomannus the Prefect of the corne market, whom I could Prefict- not but mention in this discourse gratitudinis causa. A sonne of his called Gaspar Thomannus a man of good gifts, and a lover of learning hath beene many yeares com- morant in our Universitie of Oxford. Amongst other learned men that I conversed with in Henry this Citie, Henry BuUinger was one of the chiefest, Bullmger. a man of very singular learning, the nephew of that famous preacher and writer of godly memory Henry BuUinger the successor of Zuinglius in the Ecclesiasticall [p. 391-] function of Zurich. This man is a very vigilant preacher of this Citie, and a painefull labourer in the Lords Vine yard. He shewed himselfe very debonaire and courteous 109 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES A strange Latin phrase. unto me. For he led me into his studie, which is exceed ingly well furnished with divinitie bookes, and much augmented with many of his grandfathers. Amongst the Bullinger's rest, he shewed me a manuscript of his grandfathers never manuscripts, yet printed, which was an historie of the Popes lives ; and a manuscript Epistle of Theodorus Beza unto him, wherein he delivered his opinion of the said worke. Also he shewed me one most execrable booke written by an Italian, one Joannes Casa Bishop of Beneventum in Italy, in praise of that unnaturall sinne of Sodomy. This booke is written in the Italian tongue, and printed in Venice. It came first to the hands of this mans grandfather aforesaid, who kept it as a monument of the abhominable impurity of a papisti cal Bishop, to which end this man also that received it from his grandfather, keepeth it to this day. I observed a strange Latin phrase amongst the learned men of this Citie, which is likewise used in most Cities and Universities of Germany (as I have heard) at the least in all those where I have bene. Whensoever any of them discourseth in Latine with a stranger, he will not speake to him in the second person, as to say, Ut vales Domine? but alwaies in the third person after a stranger maner then ever I observed before. As, Ut valet Dominus? cujas est Dominus? quamdiu commoratus fuit Dominus in Italia ? in quam regionem jam tendit Dominus ? placet ne Domino ? By this word Dominus meaning your selfe to whom he speaketh, though at the first time I heard that phrase, I conceived that they meant a third person. After I had duly considered this pretie Germanisme, and com pared it with a phrase that is frequent in the holy [p. 392.] Scriptures, I perceived that they borrowed this forme of speech from the very Scriptures themselves. Which made me much the more applaude the same : As for example, when Jacob brought a great drove of Ewes and Kine to present to his brother Esau for a gift, he spake thus unto him : I have sent it that I might finde favour in the sight of my Lord. Genesis cap. 33. verse 8. Meaning Esau himselfe to whom he spake, although indeed he seemed to OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH speake of a third person : The like phrase being used twise in the same Chapter, and very often in many other places of Scripture. It is a matter very worthy the consideration to thinke Zurich how exceedingly God hath blessed this citie with a great blessed with number of most rare wits, and passing: learned men within man3 learneii J r o ... men these foure score yeares. For though it be no Universitie to yeeld degrees of Schoole to the students : yet it hath bred more singular learned writers (at the least in my poore opinion) then any one of the famousest Universities of all Christendome, especially Divines, and such as have con secrated their name to posterity even til the end of the world by their learned works. For the writers of this City have bene no ordinary or triviall men that have divulged to the world triobolary pamphlets, but such as have pub lished bookes both of the greatest volume, and of the most excellent & solid learning, being men endewed with those admirable gifts as have made them equall, if not superiour profou„d to the profoundest Scholers of Christendome ; and such Scholars. men they are as may very truly apply unto themselves that speech of Saint Augustine : Nos sumus ex illorum numero qui scribendo proficiunt, & proficiendo scribunt. Yea many of them have bene such as have shined like most glittering blazing starres, not onely in their owne country of Switzerland, but also in all other regions and kingdomes of the Christian world that doe sincerely embrace the doctrine of the reformed Church. For what Doctors can we name in any Universitie of all Europe that excelled these men, Huldrichus Zuinglius, Henricus Bullingerus, [p. 393.] Theodorus Bibliander, Rodolphus Gualterus, Ludovicus Famous Lavaterus, Conradus Gesnerus, Josias Simlerus, Joannes Doctors. Jacobus Frisius, Gaspar Megander, Joannes Gulielmus Stuckius. Whose writings being replenished with most sweete and exquisite learning doe as mute witnesses very sufficiently testifie and confirme the truth of my speech. Neither doe I thinke that any man which doth judicially reade their bookes will dissent from my opinion : Besides many more of an inferiour ranke that have partly bene CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Praise of Zurich not Oxford and Cambridge. borne in this Citie, and partly professed there : Men of excellent parts, and well knowen unto the world by their learned volumes, whom notwithstanding I will passe over unnamed, that the reader may not deeme me ambitious in reciting the names of learned men. At this day that worthy man Rodolphus Hospinianus with whom I conversed in Zurich (as I have before said) hath much illustrated this Citie with his manifolde bookes full of great learning. Howbeit I doe not by this praise of Zurich derogate from the learned men of mine owne country. For I am per- ""flfLj swaded that our two famous Universities of Oxford and Cambridge do yeeld as learned men -\s any in the world ; but for the quantity (not the quality) of writing the Tigur ines without doubt have the superioritie of our English men. To conclude this narration of Zurich : I attribute so much to this noble citie, that for sweetnesse of situation, and that wonderful exuberancy of all things whatsoever tending both to profite and pleasure, I compare it at the least even with Mantua herselfe, in Italy, whom before I have so highly extolled, if not preferre it before the same : though indeed that be greater in compasse then this. For that is foure Italian miles about, but the circuite of this comprehendeth no more then halfe an Helvetian mile, which is but two English miles and a halfe. Thus much of Zurich. [P- 394-] A league of friendship. HEre I have thought good to adde to my description of Zurich before I proceed any further with my observations of my travels, certaine Latine Epistles that I sent to some of the learned men of the Citie ; pardy because thou mayest read a briefe epitome in my first Epistle of my ensuing observations betwixt that Citie and the farther end of Germany where I was imbarked for England, and partly because my friends that shall happen to reade my booke, may understand that it was? my good fortune to enter into a league of friendship with some of the profound schoUers of this worthy Citie ; a thing that hath ministred no small joy and comfort unto me. This EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS first Epistle following is to that rare Linguist and famous traveUer Gaspar Waserus. My superscription was this. Clarissimo viro Domino Gasparo Wasero Eximio Philologo, & politioris literature in cele- berrima Civitate Tigurina apud Helvetios Candidato, amico suo dilecto. The Epistle it selfe is this. Ubitabis arbitror (clarissime vir celeber- Epistle to rimeque Musarum antistes) aliquid sinistri ^ar mihi accidisse in profectione mea. Ger manic! inter vestram civitatem Tigurinam & patriam meam, quoniam in tanto isto temporis intervallo ad te haud scripserim, prout fideliter tibi promisi. Veniam mihi des quaeso. Nam tot tantisque negotiis districtus fui statim post appulsum meum in patria, ut vix respirandi tempus mihi fuerit, nedum scribendi otium. Quod ad peregrinationem meam Germanicam attinet post discessum meum a. Tiguro, jucundissima sane atque faustissima fuit tota iUa profectio, & secundis ventis mare trajeci, donee mihi contigit Angliae Katrvov cnrodpcoiTKOVTa vorjrrai, Ut Homerus de suo Ulysse canit, ac tandem exopta- tissimum patrii mei soli littus auspicato appellere. Sed quandoquidem tibi pollicitus sum, si mihi contingeret in patria pedem figere, literas tibi scribere non tantum signi- ficantes gratitudinem meam ob tuam eximiam erga me benevolentiam pari conjunctam humanitate (quam grata. quadam praedicatione semper prsedicare soleo Toh rpi\o/j.ov- vois atque eruditis meis amicis, & cujus gratia tibi ingentes gratias reddo ab intimis cordis mei recessibus dimanantes) sed etiam aliquem tibi gustum praebentes mearum Ger- manicarum observationum ; ecce hasce crassa Minerva c. c. II 113 H CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to contextas observatiunculas tibi mitto wa-n-ep ev rij eiriro^ 'wTrus libro quam ullius alterius Germanicae urbis (exceptis tantum Basilea,, Heidelberga, Spira, & Colonia) 119 CORYAT'S CRUDITLES Epistle to fecenm. Armamentarium vestrum oni nimodo apparatu Gaspar bdlico mstructuiV., antiquis Aquilis &( vexiUis Roman- Waserus. . . , - . \ , .^ . ., ., orum, nerviceis clypeis, oblongis atque aaicipitibus ensibus utrinque, plurimis praeacutis cuspidibus armatis, glactiq' Gulielmi Tell Suitensis confcederationis vestrae Helvetica;'. authore, excusso Prasfectorum vestr^caum externorum jugo, qui immani ac plane birbarica ini civitates vestras tyrannide grassati sunt, variisque aliis iinsignibus-antiquir. tatibus summe decoratum, & exquisitis.simo decentissi- v moque ordine excultum, hyperbolicis ad nnultos meos conr terraneos praeconiis extuli. Nee non eleggntem civitatis/U situm, amoenum Limaci interfluxum, i itida templa^, turrita ac pinnata mcenia profundis vaUis circu^cincta, hrmissima propugnacula, pulchras plateas, elegantu asdi- - ficia, excellentem vestram aristocraticam politiam, summara, in exteros humanitatem, maximam rerum omnium, turn ad utili tatem turn ad voluptatem conducentium exuberan- - tiam, nihil non summis laudibus ad sydera evexi. ..: Vestrae ,' denique civitati tantum tribui, ut paradisum deHciarumj.'J fertilissimum ingeniorum totius Germanise seminariuni; :.( & ipsissimum Musarum domicilium non immerito appel- - laverim. Unum tantum hoc vobis deesse affirmavi, niimV rum cohonestationem virorum Tigurinorum. tam, Martis quam Musarum ornamentis illustrium statuis, Mau3oleisv; & honorariis virtutum eorum epitaphiis atque elogiis, quag _,; ubique in omnibus cceteris Germaniae civitatibiis obse,ryavi,:,r prascipue vero Basileae, Heidelbergae, Spiras, ac Moguntis,y^ Sed omnia hasc una cum Gallicis, Italicis, Sc Rheticls \ observationibus quas jamdudum coUegi, & Hi spa aids, Polonicis, Danicis, Saxonicis, Turcicis, quas posthac (Christo duce) collecturus sum, tandem divini numinis • •• • , • N I-' ' •"!>'V auspicus in unum corpus redacta, copiose explicata, ac certo quodam ordine ac methodo digesta & typis exairj videbis. Interea. impolitis hisce lineis extremam coroiiT;. dem imponens, te oro atque obtestor, in amicorum tuorum album referre digneris tibi addictissimum (etsi ..- "i Sit penitus toto divisus ab orbe Britannus) Thomam Coryatum Odcombiensem. Londini pridie Calendas Augusti . Anno Regis dtavdpw-irov 1609. !-',! Waserus. EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS To the same also I wrote this poore Greeke Epistk to Epistle. Gaspar KAt Tairra? dX/9a/xev wy ra 7roXXa Taj (piXias fiefiaiovv. ua Se dvTr) 17 cpiXla wap' r\fxlv aXX/JXoty avydtj, tovto trait evyo/xai (tSjv M.ovcrwv Xa/xirpoTaTov /cXloy) oxrTe avTiTe/mireiv e/xoi Ta ypaft.fx.aTa e/c tov Ttyovpov, wwep odoev fxbi ^apievTepov 'ij irodeivwTepov avfx/3dii}. to Se fiaKpov toitov oia'a-Tij/ua ovSev ecrTiv efxiroSicrfxa irpos tovto. paSlws yap Suvtj cnroiTTeXXeiv ox/to. 7rpb? AyyXlav dirb tov (ppayKo- (povpTov to> twv iroXvOpvXXijTwv eKeivwv ayopwv Kaiptp. eav Tai/TJ?y rijs (piXavO pandas e/x' dPiwarijs, Sriirov aXirtp ttjs (ptX/ay trvvSeu/xw efie ]v aTToowaifxi. Ev/Ueveo-TaToy crov (piXos, ao\ dei e&)y Trjs TeXevTrj? trvvecrcbiyfxivos Qwfxds KootaToy A'yyXos 6 e/c T>?y O'^/co/u^tay. AovSivoOev irpwTrj larTafxevov ^Kipocbpiwvos Tip eVet fxeTa. Tr\v evtrapKisaiv ScoT^ooy tov Koa/xov yfXioaTip'e^aKoaioa-TU) evvaTic. Having about some three quarters of a year since re ceived an answer from this learned man, I have thought it not amisse to insert it into this place, as an argument 121 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle from Gaspdr Waserus. of his love unto me ; but I wiU not expresse his super scription, as I have done those of the Epistles that I wrote unto all my foure learned friends of this Citie of Zurich, because he ascribeth such titles unto me, as I never did, nor shall deserve in my life. The Epistle itselfe is this. S. P. D. Iterae tuas (Doctissime Vir) quas ex ultimis nundinis autumnalibus ad me dedisti, mihi redditae, & longe gratissimae fuerunt multis nominibus. Nam, praeter iter tuum, quod graphice & luculenter admo- dum descripsisti, clare ex eis perspexi eximiam tuam benevolentiam, qua. me licet absentem, & longissime a vobis dissitum egregie sane prosequeris, & ad earn perpetuandam proporro te quasi devincis. Quae causa est, cur non noluerim isthoc Epistolium tibi reponere, & eandem tibi de me quoque polliceri. Iter egregium profecto est, quod ab eo tem pore, ex quo a. me discessisti, feliciter Dei gratia confecisti : & optandum esset, ut multi tui similes extarent, qui non transcurrendo tantum corpora aspicerent, sed introspicereht etiam animos, rerum momenta, non margines aut super ficies. Turn major profecto hominum politicorum & prudentum, quibus etiam in Ecdesia habemus opus, sine dubio extaret numerus. Hoc si diligentiori curae mihi fuisset in Anglia, Scotia, Hibernia, Belgio, GaUia, Ger- mania, Italia, & alibi, quum provincias iUas florentissimas peragrarem, paulo melius res se meae haberent. Prasclare igitur tu, qui omnia ista quam diligentissime observare, scrutari, connotare voluisti. Etenim meminisse tandem haec tanta juvabit. De rerum statu nostrarum pauca habeo ad te scribere. Rex Gallias recens in Helvetiis conscribi curavit sex millia peditum ; quae ad redigendos ducatus Juliacensem, Cliven sem & Montensem in potestatem Principum Brandebur- genis & Palatini, in Galliam hinc proficiscentur. Quod si EPISTLE FROM GASPAR WASERUS Serenissimus Rex vester, (uti facturum credunt & optant Epistle from omnes boni) sua quoque conjungat auxilia, magnam sane ™^"r jacturam faciet Antichristus. Apologiam ejus cum pras- fatione monitoria, refutatam esse a, Bellarmino, haud dubie jam cognovisti. Regerit is Cramben Pontificiam millies a. nostris refutatam magna, sua. ignominia. Vestrum jam est Regis vestri causam contra Lanistam istum Purpuratum in manus sumere, & mascule propugnare ; prout per Dei gratiam virorum generosissimorum & in hac palaestra exer- citatissimorum apud vos ingens est copia. Deus optimus maximus vestris laboribus prolixe benedicat ; cujus clien teles, seu Xifxevi ctcrf^aXeo-TaTco, te commendo corditus mi Thoma optime, & amicissime. Tiguri 1 6 Mart. 1 6 1 o Tui studiosissimus Gaspar Waserus, Professor sanctarum linguarum in schola TigurinIL This Epistle following is to M. Rodolphus Epistle to Hospinianus a learned Preacher and writer of ^dolphus r • r 1 /^-- r n ¦ 1 mi Hospinianus, controversies of the Citie of Zurich. Ine preacher. superscription whereof is this. Reverendissimo viro Domino Rodolpho Hospiniano praestantissimo theologo, vigilantissimoque animarum pastori in inclyta. civitate Tigurina Helveticarum urbium Metropoli. The Epistle it selfe is this. Tsi non ut hominem perfrictae frontis, audacis tamen genii seu ingenii fortasse (Vir Clarissime) me redargueris, quod ad te ausim scribere, & Musas tuas severiores hisce intempestivis lineis interpellare. Condones quaeso meae audaciae. Nam talem opinionem tuas humanitatis ac egregii candoris imbibi, quippe quod familiarissimo tuo commercio in asdibus tuis Tiguri me dignatus fueris, ut non omnino ingratas tibi istas literas fore mihi penitus persuaserim, prassertim cum proficiscantur a grato animo 123 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to gratias tibi singulares reddente ob tuam summam erga me Rodolphus benevolentiam, quam satis abunde demonstrasti, quando Pna™™1' illum eruditum, suaviter moratum,ac lastas indolis juvenem Marcum Buelerum mihi ut comitem conciliasti toto illo tempore quod contrivi in vestra civitate. Juvenis iUe, cui plurimis nominibus me devinctissimum ingenue agnosco, idoneus & index & dux mihi fuit. Nam insigniter mihi gratificatus est turn indicando mihi precipuas maximaque observatione dignissimas res, quas vestra suppeditavit civitas, ut templa, arces, propugnacula, scholas, celeber- rimum vestrum armamentarium omni munitionum genere ac iravoTtXia instructum, nihU visu dignum omittens : turn etiam ducendo vel potius deducendo me in via. mea Badenam versus, & quando nobis mutuo valediximus, vim lachrymarum (6 teneUum & liquidum cor) profundendo. Ejus humanitati atque t>j dvafxvrio-ei omnino tribuo, quod tam copiosam historiolam vestrae civitatis scripserim. Multo enim pleniorem narrationem feci in meo oSonropucw Tiguri ac rerum Tigurinarum, quam uUius aliae civitatis in Germania, exceptis duntaxat quatuor, Basilea, Heidel- berga, Spirit, & Colonia. Parvi (reverende vir) tuo con- silio una, quadam re. Nam si memineris, consuluisti mihi digredi parum ex via, ad videndum balnea prope Badenam vestram Helveticam. Sed in multis profecto diverticulis & ignotis callibus erravi, antequam iUa invenire potuerim, hac praecipue de causa, quoniam inscius vestrae linguae non potui Germanice percontari viam. Tantum hac phrasi uti solius eram. Her ist das der raight stroze auf balnea. Sed Germani, praecipue rustici illi Corydones quibus obviam dedi, existimantes prae rudi mea. atque imperita. verborum Teutonicorum pronuntiatione me peregrinum fuisse, & vestrae linguae ignarum, mihi interroganti semper annuerunt, & gestibus quibusdam subobscuris viam in qua, progrederer, mihi indigitaxunt, sed non viam ad balnea. Non enim intellexerunt quid sibi veUet meum verbum Balnea. Tandem post multam deambulationem Kininfs- feldianum Monasterium veni, ubi a. quodam docto juvene, qui linguam Latinam mediocriter calluit, sciscitatus sum 124 EPISTLE TO R. HOSPINIANUS ubi essent balnea Badensia. Respondit, me ilia praeteri- Epistle to isse, & a, tergo reliquisse per totum Germanicum milli- R?dolfljus r\ m • • • -a -ii a Hospinianus, arium. Quare efHagitationum mearum instantia illam & preacner- oravi & exoravi, ut ad balnea me comitaretur. Quod humanitatis officium benevolentissime mihi prasstitit, atque ita post multos errores balnea ilia lustrare & eorum virtu- tem explorare mihi contigit. Juvenis ille quoniam eandem quam ego religionem processus est, familiari sua societate, & blandis facetiis me valde recreavit. Inde pro- fectus sum Brookam, Rheinfeldiam, ubi iterum leniter ac amcene labentem vestrum Limacum observavi, ac tandem Basileam. Hic genialiter biduum contrivi versando cum plurimis egregiis viris, Musarum & rei literariae candidatis. Sed recensere tibi omnes meas Germanicas observationes, quas in illis inclytis civitatibus curiosius collegi, esset tum prolixum tum superfluum, praecipue quoniam in Epistola mea, ad celeberrimum ilium Dominum Gasperum Wase- rum concivem tuum, qua. fieri potuit maxima brevitate ilia omnia succincte attigi, quam (si tibi visum fuerit) legas. Amicos illos tuos, quos ut a. te salutarem me orasti, viros reverendissimos, satque egregiis virtutum & eruditionis non vulgaris laudibus excultissimos, Academiae Oxoniensis ful- gidissima luminaria, Dominum Doctorem Hollandum regium Theologiae apud Oxonienses professorem, & Domi num Doctorem Rivium novi Collegii ibidem Gardianum (ut vulgo vocant, Anglice the Warden) haud quaquam vidi, ex quo domum redii. Sed salutem tuam illis trans- misi per conterraneum tuum Dominum Gasparum Thorn- annum Tigurinum, qui multos annos Oxonii Uteris operam dedit. Cum illo familiaritatem nuper inivi. Nam literas illi a. patre suo viro honestissimo sane (ut mihi videtur) & pientissimo tradidi, cui gratias quaeso maximas des meo nomine, quod me Tiguri humanissime tractaverit. Quinetiam hoc oro te, ut illi significes, filium suum adversa. fortuna apud nos uti ; nam tanta. inopia, & paupertate laborat, ut a-vnwdOeiav quandam in me commoveret utque vicem ejus maxime dolerem. Proinde sicuti ego illi consulvi ut in patriam rediret, ubi cum parentibus, 125 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to propinquis, & necessariis reliquum aetatis conterat, prae- Rodolphus ¦ ue quum patria Sua eruditissimis viris abundet, quorum Hospinianus, r. ^ .... r ,. . c ¦ i , . ,l Preacher. societas illi tum adjumento in conficiendo doctrinae sue studio, & levamento in sublevanda. sua egestate futura sit ; sic etiam pater ipsius cpiXoa-Topylav suam declarabit, & paterni erga ilium amoris specimen egregium edet, si literas ad ilium scripserit, quibus eum ad penates suos Tigurinos revocet, quo tandem aliquando post diuturnum istud quasi voluntarium exilium ex dulci sua. patria sibi in canicie sua adminiculum, & veluti idoneum ad senectutem suam suffulciendam baculum sit. Tum patris tum patriae suas causa opto ei ex animo magis secundam fortunam quam apud nos fruitur. Nam patriam ipsius tanto amore amplector, ut (si Deus mihi vitam prorogaverit) in prox imal mea Germanica. profectione totam vestram Helvetiam perlustrare decreverim, praecipue tredecem vestros Can- tones, Tigurum & Basileam iterum, Bernam, Scafusium, Solodurum, Lucernam, Friburgum, Swiciam, Uraniam, Sylvaniam, Tugium, Glaream, & Abbatis ceUam. Sed quo tandem excurrit vel expatiatur calamus meus? ignoscas quaeso prolixitati meae (dignissime vir) nam tua humanitate fretus (quam re ipsa, non ita pridem expertus sum) calamo meo nimis laxas habenas dedi, quas jam restringere expedit, ne tibi in pulcherrimo tuo Theologico studio impigre currenti ista levicula trdpepya sint impedi ment, quo minus ad extremam curriculi metam per- venias. Promisit mihi (egregie vir) ingenuus iUe juvenis Marcus Buelerus se sollicitaturum te ut mihi rescribas, si prius ad te scriberem. Quo me favore si dignatus fueris, usque ad extremum vitas halitum obstringes Tibi deditissimum, tuaeqiie doctrinae baud minimum praeconem Thomam Coryatum Odcombiensem. Londini pridie Calen. August. Anno 1609. 126 EPISTLE TO HENRY BULLINGER The third Epistle I sent to M. Henry BuUinger ff^ry t0 aforesaid, the superscription is this. Bullmger. Viro ornatissimo amico suo Henrico Bullingero, cele- berrimi illius viri Henrici Bullingeri summi Tigurinas urbis quondam antistitis nepoti, eruditissimo ac vigilantissimo apud Tigurinos in Helvetia Ecclesi- astae. The Epistle it selfe is this. Via inter reliquos meos Tigurinos amicos non ultimum locum tenes (clarissime charissimeque mi Bullingere) a. me paucis <:ompellandus & salutandus es. Ne si intellexeris me ad Dominum Hospini- anum & Dominum Waserum literas dedisse, teque omisisse, ingratitudinis notam mihi inuras, quum tam benevole, tam humaniter, tam comiter multo supra, tum expectationem tum meritum meum domi tuae Tiguri ultimo autumno me tractaveris. Nam tam benigno ac dulci alloquio me ignotum ac pere- grinum in aedibus tuis dignari, manifestum liberalis animi argumentum fuit ; sed in bibliothecam tuam, in illud tam varie copioseque instructum Musaeum (quod multo majus erat) me introducere, librorum tuorum elegantissimorum copiam mihi facere, avi tui beatae memoriae manuscripta volumina ostendere, humanitatis tuas singularis ut insigne indicium & praedicavi meis doctis conterraneis, nonnullis aulicis viris, celeberrimarum Academiarum nostrarum alumnis, & equestris ordinis generosis ; & praedicare non supersedebo, *Dum memor ipse mei, dum spiritus hos reget artus. Proinde facere non potui quin paucis hisce lineis te salutem, partim ut turpem ingratitudinis labem subter- fugiam ; partim etiam ut amicitia nostra firmius coalescat, quod summopere expeto. *Virg. iEnei. I. 127 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to Antequam vidi Musaeum tuum, tum fando accepi, turn Henp in duobus probatis authoribus legi, Joannem Casam Epis- * inie>- COpUm Beneventanum in Italia de Sodomiae laudibus libellum conscripsisse. Authores illi apud quos iUius fit mentio, sunt isti, Joannes Juellus ille noster Phosnix Anglicus, Episcopus Sarisburiensis, in sua. elegantissima, doctissimaque Ecclesiae Anglicanas Apologia, & clarissimus iUe tuus conterraneus Conradus Gesnerus in sua, Bibli- otheca, qui hisce verbis ilium librum memorat. Impuris- simus hic nebulo edidit poemata quaedam Italica, in publicum Venetiis excusa, in quibus (proh scelus) Sodom- iam laudibus extoUit. Istorum authenticorum scriptorum authoritate nixus, saspiuscule Papicolis in Anglia & alibi retuli quendam Papisticum Episcopum Italicum tam spur- cum librum scripsisse, eumque typis imprimendum curasse, ut nullus nostras reformatae reUgionis professor vel audire ilium patienter ferret, ne dum talem conscriberet. Re- fragati mihi sunt Papistae de isto libro verba facienti, & tam pertinaciter affirmarunt nuUum ejusmodi librum a Casa fuisse scriptum, ut aliquantum dubitaverim utrum verum esset quod de illo libro memoriae prodiderunt gravissimi isti authores. Sed quum jam tandem hisce oculis iUum intueri in tuo Musaeo mihi contigerit, non video cur execrandam iUius consceleratissimi Episcopi spurcitiam excusent Pontificii. Etsi autem iUe immundis- simus liber sit dignus qui aut Thetidi, aut Veneris tradatur marito (ut eleganter politissimus iUe Politianus loquitur de Homero a. se translato in quadam Epistola ad Jacobum Cardinalem Papiensem) tamen tibi consulerem res65vare potius in Bibliotheca, tua illud detestandum monumentum ad perpetuum Papisticae immundiciei dedecus & infamiam. O vos terque quaterque beatos Tigurinos, qui per totum pene Christianum orbem, praecipue religionem reformatam & vere Christianam profitentem, pro fidei vestrae puritate, assidua & indefessa in scribendo industria, singulari & incomparabili doctrina, & eximia pietate, supra reliquos, etiam in extremis oris plagisque totius Christianismi cele- bramini. Ita enim Deus vestras civitati & incolis bene- 128 EPISTLE TO HENRY BULLINGER dixit/ ut nulla sit Christianismi pars tam longe dissita, quo Epistle to non nominis vestri celebritas pervaserit, praesertim ex quo *L"P puriorem Evangelii doctrinam amplexi estis. Nam tem pore iUo tenebrarum, quo crassis illis superstitionibus & idolomania Papistica immersi estis, non memini vel unum clarum virum vestram civitatem peperisse. Sed ex quo Papismo nuncium remisistis, & repurgatam doctrinam filii Dei, sacrosanctum ejus Evangelium in cordibus vestris plantastis, praedicastis, in circumjacentibus regionibus, dis- seminatis, & tam vocibus quam accuratissimis vestris scriptis earn propugnastis, Deus bone quot strenui & heroici Jesu Christi athletae, quot imperterriti veritatis Evangelicae irpofxa^oi Tiguri exorti sunt, qui pro ortho dox! & veteri Catholica. doctrina vere Apostolica, vere Christiana contra ementitum Romanae Ecclesiae Catholi- cismum, & commentitium Papalis tyrannidis primatum calamis suis, & spirtualibus gladiis pugnantes, sibi & patriae suae immortalem gloriam nulla, temporis injuria intermorituram pepererunt ? nam tot egregios verbi divini assertores contra novitias & spurias Cacolycae Romanae Synagogae traditiones apud vos intra octoginta- annorum spatium natos arbitror, quot nullam aliam totius Christi anismi Academiam vix peperisse reor. Ut autem caeteros Tigurinos Doctores taceam, Henricus Bullingerus avus tuus piae memoriae instar omnium erit, qui doctrinam sinceriorem Jesu Christi purissime ut deoTrvevo-Tos & deoS'lSaKTos Doctor & docuit, & promovit ad insignem Christianas reipub. utilitatem, & elaboratissimis suis lucu- brationibus vestram civitatem, non minus quam Smyrnam suam Homerus, aut Mantuam Virgilius maxime nobili- tavit; cujus libris Theologicis, praesertim Decadibus suis tantum authoritatis tribuimus nos Angli, quantum Sibyl- linis oraculis antiqui Romani ; usque adeo ut publice in Ecclesiis nostris eas asservari authoritate Regia. mandatum sit, quo plebeii homines iis concionibus in sacrosanctis Christianas fidei mysteriis facilius informentur. Hunc si imiteris (doctissime mi BuUingere) hujus vestigiis si inhaerescas, & tam vitas integritate quam doctrinae puritate c. c. n 129 1 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to Henry BuUinger. Epistle to MarcusBuelerus. si illius genium exprimas (quod te summis conatibus facere accepi) vere te avissare dicam. Quod ut facias, nos Angli (qui avi tui sanctissimam memoriam veneramur) praecipue ego, qui tecum aliquam saltern externam si non intimam amicitiam contraxi, ardentibus votis exoptamus. Macte igitur virtute tua, sic itur ad astra (Egregie vir,) & istam quam nactus es Spartam orna, hoc est, istam sacram facultatem Theologicam quam suscepisti, excole, ut tandem consummatissimus Theologus & Ec clesiae Christi fulgida lampas, sicut Luna inter minores Stellas, evadas. Vale doctissime mi Bullingere, & hunc animulum meum vere & d^evSws tui amantem ut redames te instanter oro. Tui studiosissimus Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis. Londini Pridie Calendas Augusti, Anno 1609. The fourth and last Epistle I sent to my friend Marcus Buelerus above named. The superscription is this. Egregias indolis & optimae spei juveni Marco Buelero Musarum alumno, ac bene merito suo amico, Tiguri Primariae Helvetiae Civitatis rei literariae & bonis artibus operam danti. The Epistle it selfe. Andem aliquando (clarissime mi Buelere) post longas moras hasce literas tibi mitto, non sine dolore profecto ablatam fuisse mihi ad te scribendi opportunitatem toto isto tempore ex quo patriam meam appuli ; praspeditus nimirum magna negotiorum mole, quae statim post meum in patriae fines ingressum me undique circumvaUarunt. Sed prsestat sero scribere quam non omnino. Non possum satis amplas gratias tibi reddere (mi Buelere) ob tuam insignem humanitatem ultimo autumno Tiguri mihi praestitam, 130 EPISTLE TO MARCUS BUELERUS quam quoad vixero grata, atque tenaci memoria complectar, Epistle to &, si in Helvetia aliquod tempus conterere mihi iterum Marcus contigerit (quod fortasse aliquando accidet prae amore illo quo uberrimam tuam patriam amplector) aliquod sane gratitudinis specimen edam, quod tuam in me benevolen tiam aliqua ex parte rependet. Nam tua. potissimum ope adjutus plurima memoranda in vestra Civitate Tigurina observavi, quae forsan posthac typis excusa una, cum Gallicis, Italicis, & Germanicis meis observationibus videbis. Memini (mi Buelere) in mutuis nostris colloquiis inter deambulandum me sciscitatum fuisse te an Graecam lin- guam calleres, teque respondisse, quod etsi adhuc ejus imperitus esses, tamen divino numine aspirante earn addis- cere decreveris. Ego ilia, occasione impulsus, in laudem prasstantissimas illius linguae aliquantum digressus fui, promisique (si unquam ad te scriberem) ad illius studium te serio cohortari velle. Proinde non abs re erit, si paucas lineas exarem, quibus tanquam stimulis seu calcaribus quibusdam ad elegantissimas illius linguae cognitionem imbibendam te incitem. Quum multa sint (mi Marce) quae te ad Graecam linguam perdiscendam exacuere pos- sunt, tum haec duo potissimum. Primo exempla omnium vestratium celeberrimorum Tigurinorum, qui doctrinae laude floruerunt. Nam quum multos clarissimos immor- talique memoria dignissimosviros vestra civitas produxerit, Huldicum Zuinglium, Henricum Bullingerum vestri Bul- lingeri egregii Theologi jam apud vos viventis avum, Theodorum Bibliandrum, Conradum Gesnerum, Rodol- phum Gualterum, Ludovicum Lavaterum, Rodolphum Collinum, Josiam Simlerum, Joannem Jacobum Frisium, Joannem Guilielmum Stuckium, cum plurimis aliis pras- stantissimis viris, qui in vestro Helvetico orbe tanquam splendidissima luminaria refulserunt, omnes istos Grasce non mediocriter doctos, sed ea lingua ad amussim excultos, ad ejusque summum quasi apicem et fastigium pervenisse reperies ; quippe cujus adminiculo veritatem indagare, errores refutare, & Pontificiorum prava dogmata atque 131 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to erepoSiSaa-KaXiav evertere facilius possent. Nam ex omnibus Marcus iUustribus viris quos vestra aluit civitas, ne unum quidem nominare potes qui Graeca lingua non imbutus fuerit. Secundo consideratio crassae inscitias nonnullorum, qui etsi famam aliquam ob superficialem quandam doctrinam in repub. literaria. adepti fuerint, tamen quia hujus linguae cognitione destituti fiiere, in multos putidos ac foedos errores prolapsi sunt, & scriptis suis perridiculas quasdam absurditates ipsis etiam pueris irridendas & reprehendendas mandarunt. Nam Petrus Comestor Ecclesiae Trecensis presbyter, qui vixit anno 1206. & prasstantissimus sui tem- poris theologus existimatus fuit, hoc vocabulum Eunuchus derivare non dubitavit ab ev quod significat bene, & Nuche, victoria. Nimirum quod egregia & pene coelestis victoria ei visa fuerit. Quum re vera dedicatur dirb Trjs ew>js quod significat cubiculum, & e^eiv habere, id est, sese in cubiculo connere, quia eunuchi ad cubiculorum & gynecaeorum custodiam curamque comparari solebant, quod ancillis expeditiores essent, & ob exemptos testiculos ad coitum inepti. Nicolaus etiam Lyranus egregius apud nos Anglos theologaster, & Minoritanae families summum decus, qui floruit anno 13 10. hypocritam appeUari affirmavit ab hypos quod est sub, & crisis aurum. Quia sub auro scilicet exterioris conversationis habet absconditum plumbum fal- sitatis : anile profecto delirium, & puerilibus sibiUs excipi- endum. Alius etiam Theologus non infimas apud Pontificios classis, diabolum traxisse nomen scribit a dia quod est duo, & bolus morsus (6 lepidum & perfacetum caput, ne dicam plumbeum) quod duobus sciUcet morsibus totum hominem devoret, uno corpus, altero animam. Sed constat dirb tov SiafidXXew potius deduci diabolum, quoniam quum sit humani generis hostis, homines apud Deum calumniatur. Nonne subsannas nasoque suspendis adunco istas pueriles etymologias ? quare ne ejusmodi crassa errata committas, quae ex Grascae linguae ignorantia oriri solent, tibi amice consulo Exemplaria Graeca Nocturna versare manu, versare diurna. 132 EPISTLE TO MARCUS BUELERUS Ut cum Horatio loquar. Nam (ut idem affirmat) Epistle to ... . _...,. j Marcus Gratis mgenium, Grans dedit ore rotundo Buelerus. Musa loqui. Memoriae proditum est Joannem Capnionem quern alias vocabant Reuchlinum, authorem hujus apoththegmatis fuisse : Hebraeos quidem bibere fontes, Graecos vero rivos, Latinos autem paludes. Quare rivulis istis limpidissimis temet proluas, rivulis inquam qui in carminibus Homeri, ( a quo ceu fonte perenni Vatum Pieriis ora rigantur aquis) abunde scatent, in Demosthenis et Isocratis orationibus melle Hymettio dulcioribus. Crede mihi mi (Buelere) etsi salebrosa sit & spinosa via ad Athenas Grascias acro- polin, tamen illuc si semel perveneris, infinitis deliciis & quadam voluptatum affluentia, animum tuum pasces. Rudimenta fortasse Graecae linguae aspera & acerba sunt, tamen postquam sedulitate & Vigilantia industria eorum acerbitate superaveris, singularem quandam jucunditatem inde percepturus es. Memento illius non tam veteris quam veri dicti ; -)(aXeird to. KaXd, & pervulgati illius versiculi. Dulcia non meruit qui non gustavit amara. iisdem pene verbis te alloquor (mi Buelere) quibus Helenus Virgilianus iEneam affatus est. ¦ *Via prima salutis (inquit Helenus,) sed glorias atque felicitatis, inquam ego, (Quod minime reris) Graia. pandetur ab urbe. a Graeca videlicet lingua potissimum petenda est ilia cog- nitio quae te merito beare potest. Brevem istam paraenesin ad politissimae illius linguae scientiam comparandam aequi quaeso bonique consulito, exemplis nimirum nixam tum multorum Doctorum qui in vestra civitate Tigurina floru- *./Eneid 3. 133 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epistle to erunt, quorum fama propter summam atque fere incom- Marcus parabilem eorum in omni doctrinarum genere praecipue Buelerus. theologies scientiam in totum Christianum orbem eman- avit, & quos non modo non abhorruisse a. Graeca lingua sed etiam ad ipsum illius culmen aspirasse manifestum est; tum etiam absurditatum quarundam, quae ex illius linguae inscitia profectae sunt. Quod mihi promisisti Tiguri vehementissime te oro prestare. Nam pollicitus es mihi, si scriberem ad tres illos pereruditos atque egregios viros, Dominum Waserum, Dominum Hospinianum, & Dominum BuUingerum, te illos sollicitaturum ut mihi rescribant. Quare quum ad illos scripserim, obsecro te ad me literas dare ut illis per- suadeas. Quam mihi humanitatem si praestiterint, me illis Gordiano quodam amicitiae nodo perpetuo devincient. Porro hoc te rogo, ut gratias maximas meo nomine Domino Thomanno rei frumentariae apud vos praefecto pro sua erga me benevolentia haud vulgari agas, eique significes me tradidisse filio suo literas quas ab eo accepi Tiguri, nee non filium suum secunda valetudine perfrui, sed jam Non flavit velis aura secunda suis. Hae sunt quas tamdiu abhinc tibi promisi Uterae, quas aequo atque benevolo animo te accepturum spero, praesertim missas atui a/ct/So^Xajy amantissimo amico ; aliquam etiam a te Epistolam vicissim expecto, quam mihi pergratam fore tibi penitus persuadeas. Vale beUissime mi Buelere. Tibi obstrictissimus tuasque incolumitatis cupidissimus, Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis. Londini pridie Calendas Augusti 1609. FRom my friend Marcus Buelerus, unto whom I wrote this Epistle, I received in answere of mine at the same time that my learned friend Mr. Waserus sent me that before mentioned, which for the love sake I beare unto him, in regard of the great courtesies he did me in Zurich, I have thought good to communicate to the world, though 134 EPISTLE FROM MARCUS BUELERUS indeede it be but plaine, and wanteth that elegancy that I expected from him. The titles that he attributed unto me (because I wiU not acknowledge them, as being alto gether unworthy of the least of them) I have omitted, as I have done those of Mr. Waserus before. His Epistle is this. Tane literas a, te (vir clarissime & charis- Epistle from sime) tandem? Quod in gaudio im- buelerus proviso, vix credidi ipse meis oculis cum legerem, manibus cum tenerem. Deum ego testor, ut in solo nomine tuo lecto exsilii. Officium mihi fuit tua scriptio, im6 beneficium, quia avTiUt now at length I wiU returne to my observations againe. I departed from Zurich upon a Saturday being the seven and twentieth of August, about two of the clocke in the afternoone (being conducted about two miles in my way by my friends Mr. Thomannus and Marcus Buelerus, who at our final departing bedewed his cheekes with teares) and came to a place nine English Maristella. miles beyond it called MaristeUa, which is hard by the river Limacus, about eight of the clocke in the evening. I passed the river in a boate, and lay that night in a solitary house by the river side. Betwixt Zurich and 136 OBSERVATIONS OF BADEN A multitude of bones. [P- 396] Baden. MaristeUa I observed a passing faire and spacious country fiiU of exceUent faire corne fields. About eight miles be yond Zurich I passed by a certaine Chappell standing by the high way side wherein was an exceeding massy multi tude of dead mens bones and skuUes heaped together. These are said to be the skuUes of the Souldiers of Charles the great Duke of Burgundie, (whom I have before men tioned in my notes of Zurich) and the Switzers, who not farre from this place fought a great battell, in which there was great slaughter on both sides. I departed from Maristella the next morning being Sunday and the eight and twentieth of August about seven of the clocke, and came to the City of Baden com monly called ober Baden, two English miles beyond it, about eight of the clocke. My Observations of Baden. THis City is of some antiquity. For it is mentioned by Cornelius Tacitus, that famous Historiographer that lived in the time of Tiberius Caesar. I passed a bridge over the river at the entrance of the City. It standeth in that part of Switzerland which is called Ergovia, and on the farther side of the river there lyeth the territory of Turgovia. On one side of the towne are certaine hiUes, and on the other the river Limacus afore said that runneth by Zurich, on which river they doe usuaUy passe in boates betwixt Zurich and this City. Againe, the City is so built that it standeth on both sides of the Limacus. It lyeth in the very medituUium of Helvetia, which is the reason that the confederates doe celebrate all their publique assemblies that concerne the whole state in this City. There standeth a Castell upon the toppe of the hill which doth now suffer great dilapida tions. One thing I observed in the German Cities that I could not perceive in any place of France, Savoy, Italy, or Rhetia. Namely, the heads of boares nailed upon the Boars' heads dores of dwelling houses of Cities and Townes. The nailed upon first that I saw in Germany were in this City of Baden. oors' i37 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES For here I saw many of them hanged upon the dores both at the entrance into the City, and in the fairest streete. These heads are of certaine wilde boares that the people doe kill in hunting in the forrests and woods of the coun try. Which hunting of wilde boares is more exercised by the Germans then by any other Christian nation. And it is the custome of the country whensoever they have killed any great boare to cut off his head, and erect it in that manner as I have already spoken. The like I ob served afterward in many other German Cities. I was in the fairest Church of the City which is dedicated to our Lady, where I saw a great many pictures and images (for [p. 397.3 this City is wholly Papisticall) and one very curious Altar made of wainscot. On the south side of the Church A chapel ^ there standeth a little ChappeU, wherein I saw an exceeding heaped with multitude of dead mens bones and skuUes laid top-ether bones and . , , - T . P skulls. at t^e west end thereof. 1 never saw so many dead mens bones together in all my Ufe before. For the number of them was so great, that I thinke at the day of judgement at the least ten thousand soules will challenge them. Surely for what cause they heape together these bones (I confesse) I know not. The Earldom This Citie in times past was subject to a proper Earle of Baden. Qf ner ownej wno was ^titled the Earle of Baden. But about the yeare 11 80. Henry their last Earle of Baden being dead, the Earledome was translated by the meanes of a certaine Lady to the Earles of Kyburg. Againe, after the death of Hortmannus the last Earle of Kyburg, who died about the yeare 1260, there rose a great conten tion about this Earledome. But at last Rodolphus Earle of Habspurg that was afterward elected King of the Romanes, got the possession of it, and after his death it was continually possessed by the Dukes of Austria till the Councell of Constance. At what time the Helvetians by the commandement of the Emperour Sigismund first seised upon it, who have ever kept it from that time till this day. Thus much of the Citie of Baden. 138 THE BATHS OF BADEN I Departed from this City about tenne of the clocke the same Sunday, and tooke my journey directly to wards the Bathes which are within halfe an English mile of the Citie. For Master Hospinian of Zurich did earnestly counsell me to see them, as being a place very worthy my observation. But there hapned such a sinister accident unto me upon the way, that it was very difficult for me to find them out ; whereby I verified the old speech, though indeed the same be properly spoken in another sense ; Difficilia quae pulchra. For by reason that [p. 398.] I was ignorant of the Dutch language, those that met me by the way could not understand my speeches, and so gave me no certaine directions to finde out the place. Whereupon I went five English miles beyond it before I A happy acci- could learne any newes of it, even to the famous Monas- denL terie of Kiningsfelden neere the Citie of Brooke. Which accident ministred occasion unto me to see certaine memorable monuments in this foresaid Monasterie, which I had not seene, if this occurrent had not driven me thither. Here I hapned to insinuate my selfe into the acquaintance of an honest sociable Scholler, who very courteously walked with me five miles back to the bathes. For I was stroken with such an ardent desire to see them, that I could not be satisfied before I had beene there, though it were forth and backe ten miles out of my way. There fore I will first describe them, and after returne to the dis course of the Monastery againe. My observations of the Bathes of Baden. CErtainly this is the sweetest place for bathes that ever The baths of I saw, by many degrees excelling our English bathes Hmderhove- both in quantity and quality. The antiquity of them is such, that (as a certaine learned man told me in the same place) it is thought they were found out before the incar nation of Christ. The place is called Hinderhove, being seated in a low bottome about a bow shot from the high way, and about halfe an English mile westward from the high way, and about halfe an English mile westward from 139 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [P- 4°3-] Baths named from the signs of the Inns. A great concourse of people. the Citie of Baden. They are much the more commodi- ously and pleasantly situate by reason of the sweete river Limacus running by them, which divideth them into two parts, the greater and the lesser. For those on this side the river are called the greater, and those beyond it the lesser. The bathes are distinguished asunder by severall houses that are nothing else then Innes serving for the entertainment of strangers. And whereas every Inne hath his proper signe, the bathes have their names from the same signes. As in one Inne which hath the signe of the Beare, the Bathes in the same place being in number sixe are called the Beare bathes, and so the rest of the bathes have their denomination from their peculiar signes. In another Inne caUed the Sunne are eight, in a place caned the Statehove eleven, at the signe of the Crowne seven, at the Flower three, at the Oxe sixe, in a place caUed by the same name that is the generaU appeUation of aU the bathes, viz. Hinderhove, seventeene, in an open court sub dio two publike bathes, whereof one is the greatest of them all ; in which I told seven and thirtie poore people bathing of themselves. For these two serve onely for the plebeian and poorer sort. So that the totall number of them amounteth to threescore. None are admitted to these bathes in the Innes but the richer sort, and such as doe sojourne in the same. For many of the strangers are tabled there for a certain stinted price by the weeke. And some of the thriftier sort onely pay for their lodging, and procure them provision from the Citie. For it is a place of great charge to them that pay for their weekly diet. Although the number of the bathes be so great as I have already spoken : yet the originaU fountaines that feede them all are but few, no more then two, which are so hot at the first spring thereof, that a man can hardly endure to touch them with his bare hands, the like whereof I will report hereafter of the bathes of the lower Baden in the Marquisate. Howbeit the water of these bathes themselves is of a very moderate temperature. Here was a great concurse of people at the time of my being 140 THE BATHS OF BADEN there, which was at the Autumne, even the eight and twentieth day of August ; as at the same time every yeare many resort thither from Zurich, Basill, Berne, and [p- 4°4-] most of the HelveticaU Cities, and from the Citie of Constance, &c. the strangers that are to be seene in Hin- derhove, amounting sometimes to the number of a thousand persons, besides some few that lie abroad in the country for the bathes sake. Many of those people that lay at Hinderhove when I was there, were Gentlemen of great worth that repaired thither from the foresaid Cities partly for infirmities sake, and partly for meere pleasure and recreation. Most of the private bathes are but little, but very delicate and pleasant places, being divided asunder by certaine convenient partitions wherein are contrived divers windowes, to the end that those in the bathes may have recourse to each other, and mutually drinke together. For they reach out their drinking glasses one to another through the windowes. The roomes over head are lodgings for the strangers. Here I have observed the people in the bathes feede together StranSe upon a table that hath swimmed upon the superficies of ^j^ ' the water. Also I have noted another strange thing amongst them that I have not a little wondred at. Men and women bathing themselves together naked from the middle upward in one bathe : whereof some of the women were wives (as I was told) and the men partly bachelers, and partly married men, but not the husbands of the same women. Yet their husbands have bene at that time at Hinderhove, and some of them in the very place standing hard by the bathe in their cloathes, and beholding their wives not onely talking and familiarly discoursing with other men, but also sporting after a very pleasant and merry manner. Yea sometimes they sing merily together but especially that sweet & most amor ous song of solus cum sola ; I meane another mans wife, & another man naked upward (as I have aforesaid) in one bath. Yet all this while the husband may not be jelous though he be at the bathes, and seeth too much occasion 141 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [p. 405.] of jealousie ministred unto him. For the verie name of jelousie is odious in this place. But let these Germanes and Helvetians do as they list, and observe these kind of wanton customes as long as they wiU; for mine owne part were I a married man, and meant to spend some little time here with my wife for solace and recreation sake, truly I should hardly be perswaded to suffer her to bath her selfe naked in one and the selfe same bath with one onely bachelar or married man with her, because if she was faire, and had an attractive countenance, she might perhaps cornifie me. For I might have just cause to feare lest if she went into the water with the effigies of a male lambe characterized upon her beUy, the same might within a few howers grow to be an horned ram (according to a merry tale that I have sometimes heard) before she should return again to my company. Here also I saw many passing faire yong Ladies and Gentle women naked in the bathes with their wooers and favorites in the same. For at this time of the yeare many woers come thither to solace themselves with their beautifull mistresses. Many of these yong Ladies had the haire of their head very curiously plaited in locks, & they wore certaine pretty garlands upon their heads made of fragrant and odoriferous flowers. A spectacle exceeding amorous. A certaine learned man that I found bathing himselfe in one of the bathes, told me that Henry ^ Henry Pantaleon that famous Philosopher and Phisition book_ ' of Basill, (who made his abode two or three yeares in this place) hath written a peculiar booke of the vertue and effect of these bathes. Moreover he affirmed that they are of very soveraigne vertue for the curing of these infirmities, viz. the tertian and quartan ague, the itch, the cholicke and the stone ; and it hath one most rare vertue that I never heard of any bathes in aU the world. For he told me that they are of admirable efficacie to cure the sterilitie of women, and make those that are barren, very fruitfull bearers of children. A [p. 406.] matter verified and certainly confirmed by the experience 142 THE BATHS OF BADEN of many women. The water of the bathes is mingled with great store of brimstone and a smaU quantity of alum, (as Munster affirmeth, from whom I derive these few lines following concerning the vertue of the bathes) Virtues of the by meanes whereof it heateth and dryeth up aU noysome baths- and cold humours. Also it is good for those infirmities which proceede from the cold of the head, as the lethargie, the apoplexie, the diseases of the eares and eyes. It con- sumeth the fleame, heateth and dryeth up the stomach, helpeth the digestive faculty, openeth the obstructions of the liver and spleene, asswageth the biting and fretting of the guts, appeaseth the paine of the members that pro ceedeth from cold, and to conclude, it cleanseth the skinne from spots and freckles. But it hurteth those that have a hot and drie complexion, and such as are weakened with the consumption. But old folkes, of what sexe soever they are, reape no benefit by these bathes. A place that imparteth his vertue after a partiall manner rather to the feminine then masculine kinde. And so finally I end this discourse of the Helveticall bathes of Hinderhove with that elegant Elogium of Poggius the Florentine in praise of the same, even that it is a second Paradise, the seate of the Graces, the bosome of Love, and the Theater of pleasure. Thus much of the Helveticall bathes of Hinderhove commonly called the bathes of Baden. I Departed from Hinderhove about foure of the clocke in the afternoone the same Sunday, and about sixe of the clock returned to the foresaid Monastery of Kinings- Monastery of felden situate in that part of Switzerland which is called Kin'mgsfelden. Ergovia, being accompanied with my learned associat of the same place, whom I have before mentioned, who very kindly shewed me all the principall and most notable [p. 407.J things of the Monastery. This place doth now belong to the noble Citie of Berna, the Church thereof being translated from Popery and superstitious uses to the true service and worship of God, where every Sunday there is H3 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The Empress Elizabeth. Death of Albert Emperor of the Romans. [p. 408.] a sermon preached by a learned Minister. This Monas tery was first founded about the yeare 1408. by a certaine Empresse called Elizabeth who was the daughter of Meinhard Earle of Tyrol and Goricia, and Duke of Car- inthia, a woman much famoused amongst the historians for finding out the mines of salt in the Towne of Halles near Gemunden in the higher Austria. Shee was wife even the only wife of Albert the Emperor and King of the Romans, unto whom shee bare (as historians doe record) no lesse then one and twenty children. She im posed the name of Kiningsfelden (which is a Dutch word compounded of two more that doe signifie the Kings- fields) upon the foresaid Monastery. The reason of which appellation was this. Because in the same place her husband Albert above named was slaine betwixt the rivers of Arola and Risus, by his nephew John Duke of Suevia, and afterwards buried in this Monastery. But before I write any more of this Monastery I wiU relate a very notable history which I have read in the third booke of Munsters Cosmographie, concerning the lamentable death of the said Emperour in this place, hoping that it wiU be very grateful to any reader whatsoever to reade so memor able a matter as I will now report. The foresaid John being the Emperor's nephew by his eldest sonne Rodolph, was lately come to a Princely estate by the death of his father, who was newly slaine in his chamber. And shortly after he beganne to play the scape-thrift, being much given to prodigall expences. Whereupon his grandfather restrained him from the managing of his estate, assigning the Duke- dome of Suevia which was now in his possession, to the administration of some principall Stewards that should have the oversight of his lands and revenewes, till he came to more maturity of yeares. And in the meane time maintained him in his owne Palace in a convenient state answerable to the degree of a young Prince. But John beganne to murmure against his grandfather for that he curbed him of his former liberty, and being impatient of these matters consulted with three Gentlemen more that 144 MONASTERY OF KININGSFELDEN were continuaUy conversant with the Emperour (for they were the principall Squiers of his body) how he might be revenged upon his grandfather. The names of these were Rodolphus de Wart, Walterus de Essenbach, and Hul- dricus de Palma. It hapned upon the eight day of May Anno 1308. within a short space after these Catilines had linked themselves together in this mischievous league of conspiracy, that the Emperour being in a merry humour at table where these foure sate, did put certaine garlands of roses upon his sonnes head that sate at the same table. But these conspirators were so farre from being merry with the rest that they would not as much as eate any thing with them, but still ruminated upon their diabolicall A dtabohcal plot how they might compasse it to massacre the Emperor, ? ° ' which they prosecuted in this manner. The Emperor after he had dined tooke horse to ride towards the river Rhene, where he meant to take boate, and so to passe downe to the City of Rheinfelden. In his journey he was accompanied with these foure only. When they were past a prety way in their journey, these lewd miscreants having the good Emperour alone by himselfe, Rodolphus said to his confederates how long shall we suffer this carkasse to ride? and so taking the horses bridle by the hand, when as the innocent Emperour rode on securely (as he thought) and familiarly talked unto them accordingly to his wonted manner, Duke John his nephew drew his poinado out of Murder of the his sheath, and with the same gave the Emperour the first m^ero' blow upon the necke, wherewith he strooke him downe from his horse. Next came Huldricus de Palma, and with his fawchon clove his head and face asunder, (6 most Cy- [p. 409.] clopical villaine) and the other two stabbed and grievously hackled his body with many wounds. So this was the most tragicall end^of this worthy Emperour, that by the historians is much commended for his heroicall vertues, after he had reigned ten yeares, and most valiantly fought twelve severall battels in the field, in all which he got a glorious victory of his enemies. But the Lady Adrastia (I meane the just vengeance of God) pursued these impious c. c. 11 145 K CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Duke John imprisoned peipetually. Huldricus de Palma'smiserable end. Rodolphus de Wart broken on the wheel. Walter de Essenbach's obscure death. [p. 410.] blood suckers according to that elegant speech of the Lyrick Poet. Raro antecedentem scelestum Deseruit pede poena claudo.* For all foure of them came to most lamentable ends. Duke John that gave the first blow, after he had lived a most uncouth and solitary life in the desert forrests and woods among the dens of wilde beastes, conveighed him selfe at length into Italy, where being sent by the Pope to the City of Pisa in Hetruria to the Emperor Henry the seventh the successor of the foresaid Emperour Albertus,- he was condemned to perpetuaU imprisonment in the habit of an Eremitan Frier. Huldricus de Palma that clove the Emperours head asunder, dyed miserably in a poore house in the City of Basil, his CasteU being seised upon by Leopold Duke of Austria, and divided amongst his brothers, with all his other substance. Rodolphus de Wart after he had a long time hid himselfe, was at length ; detected with his man. Himselfe being tyed to a horses : taile, was after a most ignominious maner drawen to exe cution, and all his members very cruelly broken with the torment of the wheele : so was his man also. And the last of them Walterus de Essenbach, after he had Uved a sheepheards life for the space of five and thirty yeares, at : last dyed very obscurely. This worthy historie I have : thought good to prefixe before my ensuing discourse of this Monastery of Kiningsfelden by way of introduction ; thereunto ; having taken occasion of this historicaU narra tion, partly by meanes of the denomination of this place of Kiningsfelden, and partly for that the Emperors body : was buried there by his foresaid wife ; Who erected the Monastery for that purpose, and for a perpetuaU monu ment of that most execrable villany committed by those : foure cut-throates above named, even in the yeare 1308. before mentioned. And again the next yeare following : it was translated therehence to the City of Spira, where it *Hora. lib. 3. Carmi. Od. 2. 146 MONASTERY OF KININGSFELDEN D. O. M. S. Pantakon- Henrici Pantaleonis Basil. Philos. et Medici Epita. Disce tuam sortem quicunque hasc peUigis ; ista exuviae recubant Pantaleonis humo. Scin cujus, quem nee sacrae latuere Camcenas, qui potis in numerum cogere dulce melos. Clinicus, & rerum naturas conscius omnis, doctus & in fastos didere gesta patrum. Testis erit sacris physicis operata juventus, regia qua. Rhenus mcenia lambit aquis. Testis erit generosa armis quam vindice penna claravit scriptis Teutonis ora suis Testis honos vivax, amplissima jura palati queis auxit Comitem Maxmiliana manus. Longa asvi series, trieteris & hebdomas annum bis quina, adversis intemerata maUs. Lustra novem physice, thalamus dena unus & idem vendicat, & sena, bis quoque prole beat. Sic famas, sic naturae sat vixit, & hujus pertaesus vitas cessit in astheream. Vixit an. lxxii. M. viii. d. xxii. an. Ch. c I d. Id. xcv. Martii iii. The other of that learned Civilian Franciscus Hoto- mannus, which was erected above his tombe also, and written in golden letters with a deaths-head, and an houre- glasse over it. [p- 427-] Trinuno S. Franciscus Hotomannus ex ant. & nob. Epitaph to Hotomannorum famil. apud Siles. HoToman. T . German, pop. Lutetiae Par. natus, Pius integerque juris justitiasque Antistes, Jus C. Rom. Scrip. iUustr. 162 OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE Valent. Cavar. & Avarici Bitur. Epitaph to ann. mult, docuit: ¥™nd$ t*. . . . tlotoman. De sum. reipub. consultus sap. respon. Legation. German. Sub Car. ix. Franc. Reg. prospere gest. Patriam ob civil, bell. spont. linqu. In Germ, ceu patr. alt. concess. Principib. ob scient. ac prob. acceptiss. Basileae Rauracorum pub. damno luctuque plac. fato funct. B. A. L X V. M. V. D. X X. e A. c I o. I o. XC. P. id. Feb. Io. F. amicique Basileae p. Againe under the same I read this written upon a flat stone that covereth his bones. Fran. Hotomanni I. C. Mortales exuvias Tantisper asservandas, dum Christo jubente Immortales exurgant, [p. 428.] Amici Sub hoc saxo deposuere. Loco honoris ergo Ab asdis curatorib. liberal, concesso. vix. an. lxiii. Men. v. d. xx. ob. prid. id Febr. ann. C I 0. I 3. X C. 163 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Epitaph to Francis Hotoman. Epitaph to Ccelius Secundus Curio. [p. 429.J Againe upon the same stone these verses are written. Gallia progenuit, servat Basilea sepultum, Interitus expers nomen ubique viget. Hunc pietas tumulum, tumulum hunc Astrea tuentur, Astrea cultorem suum, Cultoremque suum pietas post fata tuetur Adversa fata huic seculo. Et si desertas gemebunda voce queruntur Cultore privatas suo : Quin reditum ad superos infesta. voce minantur, Ni talis exemplum viri Hujus tu inspector tumuli, pietate sequaris, Ni nos sequamur posteri. Hoc ipse e tumulo clamat post fata superstes, Hoc ipse mandat posthumis. In another part of the same Cloyster I saw these three epitaphs together written in golden letters in the wall, with armes and scutchins over them, direcdy over the bodies of the persons themselves. The first of that famous Ccelius Secundus Curio, of whom I have before spoken in my description of Turin. Hospes have, & disce Non Ccelius heic, Sed Ccelii o-wfxa, imo o-rj/xa Spiritum Christus habet. Caetera nomen verae pietatis, humanitatis, singularis eruditionis, prudentiae, insignisque constantiae, quum a- The river with the famous river Neccarus, otherwise called Nicrus, : Neckar. that runneth by the north side of the City. And it is of so great note, that they commonly esteeme it the third 3 river of Germany next to the Danubius and the Rhene. , It riseth in Suevia even in the black Forrest which is caUed in Latin Nigra Sylva about the space of foure houres journey from the fountaine of Danubius, and at length exonerateth it selfe into the Rhene, being before multiplied with some other rivers, as the Cocharus and the Iaxus, . which doe infuse themselves into the Neccar not farre from . the towne of Wimpina in Suevia abovesaid. I observed , a goodly wooden bridge built over the Neccar, the fairest ¦ certainly that I saw in Germany, but not the longest, ~ 208 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG supported with sixe huge stony piUars strongly rammed into the water, and very fairely covered over head with an arched roof of timber-worke. At the farther end whereof there standeth a faire tower on the banke of the Neccar which doth very much beautifie the bridge. This river is very commodious to the City of Heidelberg in two respects. First for that being navigable it carieth a kind Boats on the of rude boate called of the Latines ratis (such as I have ec ar' seene in divers other places of Germany, and also in France, used upon their greater rivers for carrying of hay, timber, wood, &c.) which is most commonly laden partly with timber for building, and partly with wood for fire that commeth out of the Forrest called Ottonica a part of the [p. 477-] Hercynia not farre from the city of Heidelberg ; and by this Neccar the said commodities are brought first to Heidelberg for the furnishing of the City, and from that to the Rhene, wherewith it mingleth it selfe a little on this side Spira, and therehence to all the westerne Cities and townes situate on both sides of the Rhene as farre as the towne of Bing. Secondly, because it ministreth great abundance of good fishes to the City, especially the delicate barbils. The City is strongly walled, and hath foure faire gates The City. in the waUes, and one very goodly streete above the rest both for breadth and length. For it is at the least an English mile long : and garnished with many beautifull houses, whereof some have their fronts fairely painted, which doe yeeld an excellent shew. Also it hath sixe Churches. Namely that of the holy Ghost : St. Peters : The Church in the Princes Palace : the French Church : a Church in the suburbes : And the Predicatorie church which belonged once to the Dominican Friers. But the Church of the holy Ghost which adjoyneth to their great market place, is the fairest of all, being beautified with two singular ornaments above the other Churches that doe greatly grace the same : the one the Palatine Librarie, the other the monuments of their Princes. The Palatine The Palatine Librarie is kept by that most excellent and generall Schollar Library. c. c. n. 209 o CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Mr. Janus Gruterus the Princes Bibliothecarie, of whom I have reason to make a kind and thankeful mention, because I received great favours of him in Heidelberg. For he entertained me very courteously in his house, shewed me the Librarie, and made meanes for my admis sion into the Princes Court. WeU hath this man deserved of the common-weale of good letters, because he hath much benefited and illustrated it by his elegant workes, as his Animadversions upon all the workes of Seneca the Philosopher, and his Fax artium, which though it be [p. 478.] nothing but the compiling together of other mens workes, yet the singular industrie that he hath shewed in it together with his fine methode, doth deserve no smaU praise. A A scholarly man that for his exquisite learning hath beene received into librarian, the friendship of some of the greatest SchoUars of Christendome, especially of Justus Lipsius, betwixt whom divers elegant Epistles have passed that are published to the world. I observed him to be a very sweet and eloquent discourser. For he speaketh a most elegant and true Ciceronian phrase which is graced with a faciU & expedite deliverie. In so much that I dare paraUeU him in a manner for the exceUency of his Latin tongue with Mr. Grynasus of Basil whom I have before so much extolled. But I will cease to praise my friend Mr. Gruterus, because his owne worth doth more truly com mend him then I shaU ever be able to doe with my inelegant stile, and so I wiU returne to that famous Pala tine Librarie. It is built over the roofe of the body of the Church. A place most beautifuU, and divided into two very large and stately roomes that are singular weU furnished with store of bookes of all faculties. Here are Ancient so many auncient manuscripts, especially of the Greeke manuscripts. and Latin Fathers of the Church, as no Librarie of all Christendome, no not the Vatican of Rome nor Cardinall Bessarions of Venice can compare with it. Besides there is a great multitude of manuscripts of many other sorts, in so much that Mr. Gruterus told he could shew in this Librarie at the least a hundred more manuscripts then 210 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG Mr. James the publique Bibliothecarie of Oxford could in his famous Universitie Librarie. For what bookes that Librarie hath or hath not he knoweth by Mr. James his Index or Catalogue that was printed in Oxford. Amongst other bookes that he shewed me one was a faire large parchment booke written by the great grandfather of Fredericke the fourth that was the Count Palatine when I was there. Truly the beauty of this Librarie is such both for the notable magnificence of the building, and [p. 479.] the admirable variety of bookes of aU sciences and languages, that I beleeve none of those notable Libraries Notable in ancient times so celebrated by many worthy historians, % ' neither that of the royall Ptolomies of Alexandria, burnt by Julius Caesar, not that of King Eumenes at Pergamum in Greece, nor Augustus his Palatine in Rome, nor Trajans Ulpian, nor that of Serenus Sammonicus, which he left to the Emperor Gordianus the yonger, nor any other what soever in the whole world before the time of the invention of printing, could compare with this Palatine. Also I attribute so much unto it that I give it the precedence above aU the noble Libraries I saw in my travels, which were especiaUy amongst the Jesuits in Lyons, Spira, and Mentz. Howbeit Mr. Gruterus will pardon me I hope if I preferre one Librarie of my owne nation before the Palatine, even that of our renowned University of Oxford, whereof the foresaid Mr. James is a keeper. For indeede I beleeve it containeth a few more books (though not many) then this of Heidelberg. There hapned one disaster unto me when I was in this Librarie. For shortly A disaster. after I came within it, and had survayed but a few of the principall bookes, it chanced that two yong Princes of Anhalt which are descended from the most ancient Princely family of aU Germanie, came suddenly into the roome upon me, being usherd by their golden-chained Gentle men. Whereupon I was constrained to withdraw my selfe speedily out of the Librarie, all the attendance being given unto the Princes : by which sinister accident I lost the opportunity of seeing those memorable antiquities and 211 Monuments in the Church CORYAT'S CRUDITIES rarities which Mr. Gruterus intended to have communi cated unto me, and so consequently I my selfe the same to my country. Let this therefore suffice for the Palatine Librarie. The second ornament of this Church of the Holy Ghost is the Chappel wherein the monuments of their Princes [p. 480.] are contained. This standeth at the East end of the Church, being a most elegant roome, and is inclosed on one side with certaine yron dores made lattise-wise, and for the most part locked, that I could not procure the meanes to see them, my learned friend Maister Gruterus being busie with the foresaid young Princes. Therefore for these monuments I must trust my eares (the worst 'offaHo'h witnesses) rather then my eyes. There I heard were Ghost. buried these Princes, Rupertus Senior Duke of Bavaria, Count Palatine of Rhene, and King of the Romanes, the founder of the Church of the holy Ghost ; and his wife Elizabeth, who dyed about the yeare 14 10. also two Counts Palatine Rodolphus & Ludovicus under one altar, whereof the first died anno 1209. and the other 13 19. againe Frederick that died in the yeare 1476. also Wol- phangus Count Palatine of Rhene that died in the yeare 1558. AU these lye within the said ChappeU with other Princes and Princesses. But the Epitaphes which I thinke are elegant to grace the memory of so great persons, I could not obtaine. Notwithstanding what is wanting of those Epitaphes within the Chappell, shall be a little supplyed with one most exceUent Epitaph that I found in the body of the Church written upon the monument of Philip Count Palatine of Rhene, one of their worthiest Princes, who was very famous in his life time for many memorable acts, especiaUy for freeing the noble citie Vienna from the siege of the Turkes. Seeing I was frustrated of the other Princes Epitaphes in the Chappell which I hoped to have brought with me into England, being very unwilling to leese this also which I saw was worthy the carrying over the Sea, I apprehended it with my pen while the Preacher was in his pulpit : for I doubted OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG least if I had differred it till the end of the sermon, the dores might have bene sodainly shut, & so I should have bin defeated of the opportunity. The monument it selfe Monument to is in that side of the Church where the pulpit standeth, Count PMP- being inserted into one of the main pillers of the church, and invironed round about with a pretty inclosure or rayle r g z ¦> made of yron worke. There is represented his Statue at length carved in milke-white Alabaster with his glittering Armour gilted, holding a short Pole-axe in his right hand, and a sword in his left ; that part of the monument where his Statue standeth, is wonderfull curiously wrought with very exquisite workes in stone, wherein are represented many pretty histories. At the toppe are erected his armes and scutchin. Under the which, betwixt his armes and ' the higher part of his Statue, his Epitaphe is written in touchstone. It seemeth a double Epitaph. For one is Latin, and the other Dutch. The Latin after these tedious preambles I do now at length present unto thee. Caetera qui circum lustras monumenta viator, The epitaph. Haec quoque non longa est perlege pauca mora. Si ducis audita est forsan tibi fama Philippi, Clara Palatinas quem tulit Aula domus : Qui modo Pannoniam defendit ab hoste Viennam, Et solvit trepidos obsidione viros ; Tunc cum Threicii vastarent omnia Turcas, Et tremerent subito Norica regna metu. Mox etiam implevit magnum virtutibus orbem, Utilis hinc armis, utilis inde toga. Illius hac tegitur corpus venerabile terra, Hic animam, hic vitam reddidit iUe Deo. Quo te si pietas, si quid movet inclyta virtus, Junctaque cum summa. nobilitate fides : Huic opta ut cineres placida, cum pace quiescant, Condita nee tellus durior ossa premat. Nam pius ad cceli sublatus spiritus arces, Cum Christo vivit tempus in omne suo. Decessit 4. Non. Julii Anno Dom. M. D. Xlviii. 213 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The Princes Palace. iEtatis suae Xliii. cujus P. F. Memoriae Dux Otto Henricus Comes Palatinus [p. 482.] Frater amantissimus M. H. F. C. Anno Dom. M. D. L. Thus much concerning the Church of the Holy Ghost. BEsides this foresaid Church, there are two things more which doe very notably adorne and beautifie this stately Citie, the first the most gorgious Palace of the Prince, which is commonly caUed in Dutch Das curfur stelich Sloss. The second, the famous University. The Princes Palace I will first speake of. It is exceeding difficult for a stranger to enter into one of the Germane Princes Courts (as I have before said in my description of Turlowe) except he hath some friend living in the same, which I found verified by mine owne experience at the Count Palatines Court. For I could not possibly be admitted without some speciaU and extraordinary favour, which was this. Master Gruterus understanding by my owne report that I was acquainted with our noble Ambas- sadour Sir Henry Wotton then resident with the Signiorie of Venice, the fame of whose excellent learning and generose qualities hath greatly spread itselfe in Heidelberg (for there hath he beene heretofore, and Honorably enter tained at the Princes Court) counseUed me to goe to a learned Doctor of the Civill Lawe dweUing in the Citie, whose name was Master Lingelsemius, heretofore Tutor to Fredericke the fourth, who was then the Count Palatine when I was in Heidelberg, (and therfore the better able to procure his friend accesse to the Court) and a familiar acquaintance of Sir Henry Wotton. Whereupon I repaired to his house, insinu ating my selfe partly with a token from Master Gruterus, and partly by the meanes of Sir Henry Wottons name, which was so acceptable unto him, that he enter tained me after a very debonaire and courteous maner, and sent one of his men with mee to the Prefect of the [p- 483-] Princes Court, who gave me admittance into the Palace; 214 Master Lingelsemius Doctor of Civil Law. OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG I noted the situation thereof to be very pleasant. For it Palace of is seated at the South side of the Citie upon the side of Hetdelberg. an eminent hill, having as sweete an ayre as any Palace whatsoever in aU Germanie. At the foote of the same hill on the left hand, there is a very faire building, which serveth for the Chancerie house of the Palatinate, wherein matters of controversie are handled ; and from thence there is a very tedious & difficult ascent by a steepe stonie way to the Palace it selfe. I learned at the Court that there was heretofore an other Palace besides this, situated upon the very top of the same hiU, which hapned to be utterly destroyed in the yeare 1537. as it appeareth by certaine elegant Elegiacal verses that worthy Jacobus MicyUus of the Citie of Strasburg, wrote to his learned friend Joachimus Camerarius about the yeare and day of the mine thereof, by a certaine memorable yet rufuU accident ; for the fire of heaven it selfe consumed it. The The Palace Telum trisulcum Jovis (I meane the lightning) striking dfftroyedby casuaUy a heape of Gunpowder that was kept in a certaine J D i;3_ roome of the Palace, which no sooner tooke fire, but immediately in the very twinckling of an eye it burnt up the whole building, and scattered the stones (a most lamentable spectacle to behold) farre asunder, some downe to the present Palace where the Prince now dwelleth, and some to the Citie, to the great detriment of both places. The ruines of the same palace are yet shewed (as I heard) upon the top of the hill. But now I will returne againe to the Princes palace where he keepeth his residence ; every thing that I saw there did yeeld matter of speciall marke and magnificence. The father of Fredericke the fourth, and Prince Fredericke himselfe have beene great builders. His father built all the part of the Palace on the left hand of the first Court, which is beautified with a very stately frontispice, and distinguished with great varietie of not able workmanship. But Prince Fredericke hath built an [p. 484.] other part of the Palace which doth farre excell that ; even all that gorgeous building at the entrance, which by reason of the most admirable and rare sumptuousnesse of the 21s CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Architecture, being built all with square stone, and gar nished with goodly statues, doth adde infinite grace Front of the to that part of the Palace. Both the Fronts of the palace. Palace whereof I now speake, as well that without looking towards the Citie, as the other within to wards the Court, doe present workmanship pf great state, as I have aheady said. But there is great difference betwixt them. For the inward front is much more glorious and resplendent then the other. The principall ornament that graceth it, is the multitude of faire statues (which the outward Front wanteth) very loftily advanced towards the fairest part of the Court, whereof there are foure distinct degrees or Series made one above another. The same statues are carved in a singular faire milk-white stone, which seemeth as beauti full as the fairest Alabaster, and formed in a very large proportion, expressing all the parts of a mans body, and done with that artificial curiositie, that I beleeve were those famous statuaries Polycletus and Praxiteles alive againe, they would praise the same, and confesse they were not able to amend them. For they imitate the true naturaU countenance and living shape of those heroicall and Princely Peeres, whom they represent. Most of them Fair statues, are the statues of the famous Palatine Princes to the last of them Fredericke the fourth. Also Emperours, Kings and Queenes are there pourtrayed. This Front is raysed to a very great height, and decked with marveilous curious devices at the top, all which ornaments concurring together doe exhibite to the eyes of the spectator a shew most incomparable. Truely for my owne part I was so exceed ingly delighted with the sight of this rare frontispice, that I must needes confesse I attribute more unto it, not out [p. 485.] of any partiall humour or overweening phantasie, but according to the upright sinceritie of an impartiaU opinion, then to the Front of any Palace whatsoever I saw in France, Italy or Germanie. Yea, I will not doubt to derogate so much from the Fronts of the French Kings palaces which I saw both in Paris and Fountaine Beleau; 216 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG of the Duke of Venice, of that exquisite building before mentioned which belongeth to one of the sixe Companies or Fraternities of Venice, adjoyning to St. Roches Church, where I heard that heavenly musicke ; so much I say doe I derogate from the fronts of al these Palaces, that the fairest of them doth vale bonnet (in my opinion) to this royall inward front of the Count Palatines Palace. The lower part of the same front doth containe one of those sixe Churches whereof I have before made mention, viz. The Courtly Church, where the Prince & his family of the ™ufc°frt Court heareth divine service and sermons, and the higher part many gorgeous roomes for the Princes use : wherein many noble Peeres of Germanie and France solaced them selves when I was at the Court, the number of whom was so great that I heard there were then resident at the court forty worthy personages of great note out of both Nations, besides their followers, Gentlemen that ruffled it very gallantly. But to conclude my narration of this part of the Palace, certainly it is so regall a structure that I conjecture it cost at the least forty thousand pounds sterling. This Prince hath newly built a very stately long porch also at the entrance of the Palace, which was not throughly finished when I was there. There is a notable thing to be seene in this Palace, the sight whereof it was not my hap to enjoy, because I heard nothing of it before I went out of the Palace : a matter of great antiquity. Namely certaine ancient stony pillars, fr'uJ£t %som in number five, which the Emperor Carolus Magnus above jfa/y, eight hundred and fifty yeares since brought from the City of Ravenna in Italie, and placed them afterward in his [p. 486.] Palace of Ingelheim a place of high Germany within a few miles of the City of Mentz, where he was borne, and oftentimes kept his Court. The same pillars were of late yeares removed from the said Ingelheim to Heidelberg by the Prince Philip of whom I have before made mention in my discourse of the Church of the holy Ghost, who erected them in this Palace whereof I now speake, and are there shewed for a principall ancient monument to this day. 217 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES But some of the Gentlemen of the Princes family did sufficiently recompence my losse of the sight of these ancient pillars by shewing me a certayne peece of worke TfH^TL tUn t^lat ^ much more please my e*es ^en tne s^g^t of those of et e erg. pjjlars could have done. For it is the most remarkable and famous thing of that kinde that I saw in my whole journey, yea so memorable a matter, that I thinke there was never the like fabrick (for that which they shewed me was nothing else than a strange kinde of fabrick) in aU the world, and I doubt whether posterity wiU ever frame so monstrously strange a thing : it was nothing but a vessel full of wine. Which the Gentlemen of the Court shewed me after they had first conveighed me into divers wine cellars, where I saw a wondrous company of extraordinary great vessels, the greatest part whereof was replenished with Rhenish wine, the totall number contayning one hundred and thirty particulars. But the maine vessel above all the rest, that superlative moles unto which I now bend my speech, was shewed me last of aU standing alone by it selfe in a wonderfuU vast roome. I must needes say I was suddenly strooken with no smaU admiration upon the first sight thereof. For it is such a stupendious masse (to give it the same epitheton that I have done before to the beauty of St. Marks streete in Venice) that I am perswaded it will affect the gravest and constantest One of the man in the world with wonder. Had this fabrick beene ZTrld" "^ '^ extant m th°se ancient times wnen the Colossus of Rhodes, the Labyrinths of ./Egypt and Creta, the Temple of Diana [p- 487-] at Ephesus, the hanging gardens of Semiramis, the Tombe of Mausolus, and the rest of those decantated miracles did flourish in their principall glory, I thinke Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus would have celebrated this rare worke with their learned stile as well as the rest, and have con secrated the memory thereof to immortaUty as a very memorable miracle. For indeede it is a kinde of mon strous miracle, and that of the greatest sise for a vessell that this age doth yeeld in any place whatsoever (as I am verily perswaded) under the cope of heaven, Pardon me 218 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG I pray thee (gentle Reader) if I am something tedious in discoursing of this huge vessel. For as it was the strangest spectacle that I saw in my travels : so I hope it will not be unpleasant unto thee to reade a fill description of all the particular circumstances thereof : and for thy better satis faction I have inserted a true figure thereof in this place (though but in a small forme) according to a certaine patterne that I brought with me from the City of Franck- ford, where I saw the first type thereof sold. Also I have added an imaginary kinde of representation of my selfe upon the toppe of the same, in that manner as I stood there with a cup of Rhenish wine in my hand. The roome where it standeth is wonderfull vast (as I said before) and capacious, even almost as bigge as the fairest hall I have seene in England, and it containeth no other thing but the same vessell. It was begunne in the yeare The tun three 1589. and ended 1591. one Michael Warner of the City ^uafdmn of Landavia being the principall maker of the worke. It containeth a hundred and two and thirty fuders, three omes, and as many firtles. These are peculiar names for certain German measures. Which I will reduce to our English computation. Every fuder countervaileth our tunne, that is, foure hogsheads, and is worth in Heidel berg fifteene pound sterling. So then those hundred two and thirty fuders are worth nineteene hundred and foure- [p. 488.] score poundes of our English money, The ome is a measure whereof sixe do make a fuder, the three being worth seven pounds ten shillings. The firtle is a measure that countervaileth sixe of our pottles : every pottle in Heidelberg is worth twelve pence sterling. So the three firtles containing eighteen pottles, are worth eighteene shillings. The totaU summe that the wine is worth which The ™l™ . this vessell containeth, doth amount to nineteene hundred thetunisworth fourescore and eight pounds and eight odde shiUings. £1988. 8s. This strange newes perhaps will seeme utterly incredible to thee at the first : but I would have thee beleeve it. For nothing is more true. Moreover thou must consider that this vessel is not compacted of boords as other barrels 219 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The tun's dimensions Its cost. are, but of solid great beames, in number a hundred and twelve, whereof every one is seven and twenty foot long. Also each end is sixteene foote high, and the belly eighteene. It is hooped with wonderous huge hoopes of yron (the number whereof is sixe and twenty) which doe containe eleven thousand pound weight. It is supported on each side with ten marvailous great pillars made of timber, and beautified at both the ends and the toppe with the images of Lyons, which are the Princes armes, two Lyons at each end, a faire scutchin being affixed to every image. The wages that was paid to the workeman for his labour, (the Prince finding all necessary matter for his worke, and allowing him his dyet) came to two thousand three hundred and fourescore Florens of Brabant, each Floren being two shillings of our money, which summe amounteth to eleven score and eighteene pounds sterUng. When the Cellerer draweth wine out of the vessel, he ascendeth two severaU degrees of wooden staires made in the forme of a ladder which containe seven and twenty steps or rungs as we call them in Somersetshire, and so goeth up to the toppe. About the middle whereof there [p. 489.] is a bung-hole or a venting orifice into the which he con- veigheth a pretty instrument of some foote and halfe long, made in the forme of a spout, wherewith he draweth up the wine, and so poureth it after a pretty manner into the glasse or &c. out of the same instrument. I my selfe had experience of this matter. For a Gentleman of the Court accompanied me to the toppe together with one of the Cellerers, and exhilarated me with two sound draughts of Rhenish wine. For that is the wine that it containeth. But I advise thee gentle Reader whatsoever thou art that intendest to travell into Germany, and perhaps to see Heidelberg, and also this vessell before thou commest out of the City ; I advise thee (I say) if thou dost happen to ascend to the toppe thereof to the end to tast of the wine, that in any case thou dost drinke moderately, and not so much as the sociable Germans will persuade thee unto. For if thou shouldest chance to over-swiU thy selfe with The 220 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG wine, peradventure such a giddinesse wil benumme thy braine, that thou wilt scarce finde the direct way downe from the steepe ladder without a very dangerous precipita tion. Having now so copiously described unto thee the vesseU, I have thought good to adde unto this my poore description, certaine Latin verses made by a learned German in praise of the vessell, which I have selected out of the coppy that I bought at Franckford, being printed at the Universitie of Leyden in Holland by one Henry Hoestenius Anno 1608. and dedicated to a certaine Noble man called Hippolytus Lord President of the Princes Chancerie Court. The verses are these. OTia dum vario partiri quemque labore, Verses in Exercere suas experiorque vices. Praise °f r t. tun. Nauta rates, enses miles, rus curvus arator, Piscator tractat retia, pastor oves. Me quoque dum studium novitatis duke tenebat, Nescio quod rari verso laboris opus. Vas immane, ingens, quod forte jacere videbam, [p. 490.] Vas majus nostro robore pondus erat. Diogenis tanti pras pondere Vasis habebat Dolioli parvi parva figura nihil. Nee qui projectis turbabat montibus aequor Hoc versare Cyclops sustinuisset onus. Nee, qui ducebant, potuissent ducere plures Trojanum, Trojas flebile robur, equum. Voluendo tanto desperabundus abibam, Par oneri nee enim, nee satis unus eram. Quis mihi conanti tantum superare laborem Attulerit sociam certus amicus opem? Vos Oratores, quos has Fredericus in oras Misit in auxilium pacis, ad este, precor. Forsan erit, nostra per vos hac mole levata, Nonnihil hoc vestrum quo relevetur onus. Ergo jugum mecum superate quod indicat arcem, Qua vas artifices hoc statuere manus. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Verses in Nec dubia est, facilis nos semita ducet euntes, P™fe °-fthe Omnibus est signis & via nota suis. Est locus excultis genialis & utilis hortis, Collibus apricis, pampineisque jugis. Qua, Nicer excelsas Pater alluit inclytus arces, Et prono Rhenum spumifer amne subit. Qua myrtillorum montem probat esse Melissus, Qui Myrtilleti nomen in astra tulit. Hic specimen natura loci, geniusque locavit, Copies & hic cornu fertile, dixit, habe. Ubertas rerum nullis felicius arvis, Hic Bacchi, hic Cereris copia tanta venit. Horrea distendant ut fruges saepe, coloni Respondet votis tam bene cultus ager. Saepe per autumnum superantia munera Bacchi, Condere rite suas copia nescit opes. Quin sua saepe nocet lascivis copia Faunis, Quo nimis occoecat prodigus usus opum. [p. 491.] Et dubitamus adhuc dare pectora grata datori Nostra Deo, tantis coelitus aucta bonis ? Sed designatis ne collibus altius istis, Terminus hic positus, progrediamur, erit. Collibus Heroes prisci his habitasse feruntur, Servat adhuc sedes signa decusque Patrum. Sed praeter veterum monumenta augusta Parentum Nil prius Aonidum vertice coUis habet. Dum licuit cultos hos olim intravimus hortos, Et posthac tempus visere forsan erit. Nunc age, fas magni Vas instar visere montis, Divina structum PaUadis arte cadum. Vel Cuppam, vel quo te molem nomine dicam, Seu monstrum, salva. te pietate, vocem. Authorem primam si Pallada vasis habemus, (Nam rerum artificem tot posuere Deam.) Invideat Bacchus, fiatque injuria Divas, Cum Baccho quid enim mascula Pallas habet? Vitisator Dux acer ades ; tibi nostra parentet, Te Musa authorem Dux Casimire canit. OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG Pro charo Princeps dum sceptra Nepote gerebas, Pace Palatinam multiplicante domum. Inter, quae domus aha colit, decora alta Parentum, Qui tantas, optabas, conderet artis opus. Nobilis author, adest, urbs quem Landavia misit, Fine potita suo gloria ponit opus. Ponit opus, decus acre Ducum, non quale priorum, Etas vel vidit, nuUa vel ausa manus. Non, mihi si prasstent mirandam Daedalus artem Ipse, Syracusius vel faber iUe suam : Immanem molem satis hanc describere possem, Ante suo voluam pondus onusque loco. Clara Rhodos jactet miraclum immane Colossum, Et Laurentiacum Bcetica terra suum, Et Batavi currum, qui prasvolat ocyor Euro, Quodque fide majus nullo agitatur equo. Quisque suum jactet : par huic tamen esse negamus Dolium, onus, molem, pondus, & artis opus. Laude opus hoc dignum est : oculos cum castera pascant, Spectaclum ventres hoc satiare potest. Verses in praise of the tun. [p. 492.] Thus finally I shut up the description of this strange Vessell with a certaine admirable thing that I heard reported of it in Frankford, after my departure from Heidelberg, that the same being full of Wine was once drunke out in the space of eight dayes, at the time of a certain noble meeting of Princely Gallants at the Court. Seeing I am now writing of the memorables of the Princes Palace, I wiU make mention of the Prince him selfe that is the Lord of the Palace, and of his Princely titles or ElectoraU dignitie. But first of his titles. Thus The Prince's he is most commonly stiled : Serenissimus Princeps, &c. "' Elector, Comes Palatinus ad Rhenum, Sacri Romani Imperii Archidapifer, & Bavariae Dux. He is the chiefe Elector Prince of the Empire above the other secular Princes, which are the Duke of Saronie, and the Mar quesse of Brandenburg, having the superioritie of them in these two respects. First in that he giveth his suffrage in 223 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Etymology of Palatine. [P- 493-J the election of the Emperour before them. Secondly, because he taketh prioritie of place above them at any imperiall Diet. For he sitteth on the right hand of the Emperour, being the next man to the King of Bohemia. Archidapifer. The reason why he is intitled Archidapifer (which word doth signifie the principall Sewer to the Emperour) is because he is chiefe Sewer to the Emperour, and attendeth him at Table the first meale that hee maketh after his Election, according to an ancient custome that hath beene continually observed at the Emperours election any time these sixe hundred yeares and a little more, by the first institution of Otho the third Germane Emperor of that name. As for his title of Palatinus added to Comes, the opinions of the learned doe much differ about the etymo logie of the word ; for some say it is derived from the word Palas which was heretofore the name of a Country called CapeUatium, inhabited in former times by the ancient Intuergi, a people that dwelt in that part of the Palatinate where Heidelberg now standeth. Of this opinion is Gaspar Peucerus and learned Beatus Rhenanus. Whereof the later citeth a place out of Ammianus Marcel- linus for the better confirmation of the matter. Others draw the word Palatinus from Palatium, because the Count Palatine is an eminent Peere of the Emperours Palace : for indeede Counts Palatine were heretofore the Prefects of Palaces, especially in the Courts of Emperours, where they bare the like authoritie to him that was in times past Major Domus in the French Kings Court. Againe, there are some that affirme it hath his name from a certaine Casde situate in the middle of the Rhene, caUed Pfaltz, which word signifieth in the high Dutch a Palace. It was my chance to passe by this foresaid Castle in my journey by water upon the Rhene betwixt the Cities of Mentz and Colen, as I will hereafter report. From the same word Pfaltz this Prince is most commonly the Pfaltsgrave of Rhene ; but that etymologie, which I approve above the rest, is the derivation of Palatinus from Palas the Name of the Countrey : for it maketh more for the dignitie and 224 "a: ' of the Count Palatine c fluent in tint citie of is attik k]f ihtwdk^t t 'dkt OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG honour of the Prince, to derive his name from that then from any other thing, because it argueth the greater antiquity of his title. For Ammianus MarceUinus that caUeth the tract about Heidelberg, Palas, lived for more then a thousand & two hundred yeares since, even in the time of the Emperor Julian the Apostata. Moreover the addition of these words (Ad Rhenum) to Comes Palatinus groweth herehence, because the greater part of his terri torie doth lye by the river Rhene. As for the originall of this renowned stocke of the Casimires (for that is the Family name gentiUtiall name of the Count Palatines familie) it is of the Prince derived from Arnolphus surnamed Malus the eldest sonne Palatlne- of the Emperor Arnolphus by his first wife Agnes. So ^' 4"'-' that it is above seven hundred yeares old. Likewise the Electoral dignity of this Princely familie is of good antiquity. For it beganne about the yeare 1003. At what time the hereditarie succession of the Empire was converted to an election ; Henry the Count Palatine being the first Elector of this familie, who with other Princes Spiritual and Temporal elected Henry the second sur named *Sanctus (the first of all the German Emperors that was chosen by the Suffrages of the Elector Princes) into the Empire in the yeare abovesaid ; but now I will speake a little of him that was Count Palatine of Rhene at the time of my being in Heidelberg, namely Fredericke the F™dertck lv- fourth of that name, who died as I understand this last paiati„e, Sommer. He was a man of most heroicall and Princely parts. He matched in the Princely house of Orange. For he marryed the noble Lady Ludovica daughter to William that worthy Prince of Orange that was slaine at the Towne of Delph in Holland, and sister to that renowned Prince Maurice generall Commander of the * Hee was so called for his most rare continencie, because though he had a most faire Lady to his wife called Cunegunda, and did continually lie in the same Bed with her : Yet both of them with a mutuall consent abstained from carnall copulation and preserved their virginity till their death. The like example I thinke is not to bee found at this Day in Christendome. c. c. 11 225 P hospitality. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Armies of the united Provinces : hee was much addicted to learning, and accounted a great Meccenas and patron of the Muses. And (which is the principaU thing of all) hee was a singular Nutritius and foster-father of the Church. For hee professed the same reformed Religion that wee doe in England, and hath utterly rooted Poperie out of his Dominion, which first began to be suppressed in the Palatinate by Fredericke the second of that name Count Palatine of Rhene, in the yeare 1 546. Besides hee deserveth great praise for one most princely vertue, even His royal his r0yall hospitalitie ; for he hath the fame to be the most magnificent House-keeper of all the Germane Princes, the Duke of Saxonie (though his superiour in largenesse of Dominion and opulencie of estate) the Marquesse of Brandenburge, the Duke of Brunswicke, and aU the other LP- 495-J Soveraigne Princes of Germanie, being inferiour unto him in this most laudable exercise of Hospitalitie ; who was sometimes so passing bountifuU, that I have heard there have beene a hundred severaU Tables in his Palace fined at one meale with ghests, and very bountifuUy furnished with meate. It was my chance when I came to the Citie of Colen, to see his Effigies very curiously made, answer able to the life, according to the original! patterne whereof I have procured another Figure to be made, as truely correspondent to the first, as my Carver could by imitation attaine unto, and have placed it here for the better ornament of this discourse of the Count Palatine. Likewise I have added sixe Latine verses, which I found subscribed to his Effigies in the foresaid Citie of Colen, with mention of which I wil end this treatise of the titles attributed to the Count Palatine of Rhene, and the narration of Prince Fredericke the fourth. [p. 496.] Thus much of the Pfaltzgraves Palace, his ElectoraU dignitie, titles, and Princely hospitaUtie. [p- 497-] T T yTHereas I said before that there are two things which University of ? * doe notably beautifie this Citie, besides the Church Heidelberg, of the Holy Ghost, namely the Princes Palace, and the Uni- 226 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG versitie ; having ended my description of the former two, I will now make relation of the Universitie, being verie sorie that I cannot discourse so largely thereof as I would. For that little time that I spent in Heidelberg (which was no more then one whole day) I bestowed in seeing the Palatine Library, the principall Church, and the Princes Court. So that I omitted to see any of their Colledges, and therefore unable to satisfie thy expectation of those things which perhaps thou wilt most require at my hands. Only I can teU thee the founder of the Universitie was Rupertus the elder, whom I have before mentioned, Count Palatine of Rhene, and King of the Romanes, the same that founded the Church of the holy Ghost. This laud- Vnlve ™9 able worke he began in the yeare 1346. The Colledges °TJ ' ' are but three in number, whereof that which is called the Colledge of Wisedome is the fairest, in which their theo- logicall exercises are handled. The second is the Casi- mirian Colledge, wherein are exercises of all the liberall sciences. The third is called the Bursa, wherein all faculties are professed also : although this Universitie be but little, yet it hath partly bred, and partly entertained many singular men of rare learning that have both eternized their owne names, and greatly graced this Universitie with the excellent fruits of their studies that they have communicated to the world. For here lived and died famous Rodolphus Agricola that most learned Frisian of the noble Citie of Groninga. The Elogium Erasmus's of whose excellent learning written by Erasmus (as I finde ekgy on it in his Chiliades, even in the first Chiliad in the nine A°M^ and thirtieth adage of the fourth Centurie) because it is SrtCh' very memorable, and doth greatly illustrate the glorie of this rare man, I will here expresse, whose words are these. Hoc equidem adagium eo libentius refero, quod mihi refricat novatque memoriam pariter ac desiderium Rodol- [p- 498-] phi Agricolae Frisii, quem ego virum totius turn Germaniae, turn Italiae publico summoque honore nomino : illius, quae genuerit: hujus, quae Uteris optimis instituerit. Nihil enim unquam hic Cisalpinus orbis produxit omnibus liter- 227 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES ariis dotibus absolutius: absit invidia dicto. NuUa erat honesta disciplina, in qua. vir iUe non poterat cum summis artificibus contendere. Inter Grascos Graecissimus, inter Latinos Latinissimus. In carmine Maronem alterum dixisses : In oratione Politianum quendam lepore referebat, majestate superabat. Oratio vel extemporalis adeo pura, adeo Germana, ut non Frisium quempiam, sed urbis Romanae vernaculum loqui contenderes. Eloquentias tam absolutas parem adjunxerat eruditionem. Philosophic mysteria omnia penetraverat. NuUa pars musices quam non exactissime calleret. Extremo vitas tempore ad literas Hebraicas ac Scripturam divinam totum animum appulerat. Atque hasc conantem fatorum invidia virum terris eripuit nondum annos natum quadraginta, sicut accipio. Thus much Erasmus of Rodolphus Agricola, whose testimonie consisting of so many sweete words I was the more wiUing to alledge, because it is an introduction to a most elegant Agricola's Epitaph written upon the said Agricola by that famous epitaph. an(j learned Venetian Gentleman Hermolaus Barbarus Patriarch of Aquileia ; which Epitaph (as it is extant upon the monument of him in one of the lesser Churches of Heidelberg) was communicated unto me by a learned Gentleman of the Universitie, (and mentioned also by Erasmus himselfe in the same adage whence I have derived the premisses) who told me that Agricola was buried there Anno 1485 in the habite of a Franciscan Frier, according as I have sometimes observed secular men buried in Italy. The Epitaph is this. Invida clauserunt hoc marmore fata Rodolphum Agricolam, Frisii spemque decusque soli : [p- 499-J Scilicet hoc uno meruit Germania laudis Quidquid habet Latium, Grascia quicquid habet. Having now insisted upon the praise of worthy Rodolpus Other learned Agricola in regard he was buried in this renowned city, 1 men. wil briefly name some other learned men of this noble 228 OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG University, & so finally end this discourse of Heidelberg. Here lived Joannes Dalburgius counseller to Ludovicus Count Palatine of Rhene, and afterward Bishop of Wormes, a man of singular learning. Here also pro fessed that admirable Hebrician Conradus Pellicanus, who read the Hebrew lecture ; and Sebastian Munster his Sebastian successor in the same lecture which he read there five years, Munster. as he himselfe doth write. Likewise he wrote some part of his Cosmographie in this Universitie, as Mr. Gruterus told me : here Joannes Virdungus that notable Mathema tician professed the Mathematicke disciplines. Here Gulielmus Xylander borne in the renowned citie of Augusta, and famoused over all Christendome for his excellent learning, especially in the studie of humanitie, read Philosophic and Astrologie for the space of many yeares ; and also did at last shut up his vitali daies in this citie. Here that Phcenix and miracle of her sexe Olympia Olympia Fulvia Morata an Italian Gentlewoman borne, spent a good Vt part of her time in sacred meditations, and most sweete exercises of learning, after she had abandoned the vanities of the Duke of Ferraraes Court in Italy, and the popish religion ; who by her incessant study profited so much in the Greeke and Latine tongues, that she hath immortalized her fame by her most elegant writings, and added some grace to Heidelberg even by leaving of her precious bones there. Here Victorinus Strigelius publikely professed after he had before bene a professor in the two Universities of Jene and Leipzicke. Here Joannes WiUingus a singular Divine and preacher of the Court florished. Here preached that worthy man Gaspar Olevian : here those rare divines, three shining lamps of Christs Church, Emanuel Three shining TremelUus a Jew borne as I have before written in my note ^scfthe of Venice ; Zacharius Ursinus, and Petrus Boquinus read rp. soa 1 with no lesse profit then praise the publike lectures of divinity. Whereof the first hath infinitely profited the Church by his excellent translation of all the old Testament out of Hebrew into Latine with his learned copartner Francis Junius, and their sound scholaies upon the same. 229 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The other two have like most valiant champions of Christ, especially Ursinus, fought the Lords battell against the enemies of Gods true religion, partly with their eloquent tongues, and partly with their elegant quilles. The one of them, I meane that holy Ursinus, having besides many other most learned tracts of divinity, written so incompar ably learned a Catechisme, and so profitable unto Gods Church, that I thinke there was never any booke of the like subject since the time of the Apostles worthy to be paralleled with it ; the other, besides many excellent theologicall tracts that he hath written, hath most manfuUy defended the old and ancient Christianisme against the new and counterfaited Jesuitisme. Here also lived Paulus Melissus that excellent Poet and worthy Knight Palatine. Here Bartholomew Kicherman that notable artist professed Logicke and Philosophy. Here finaUy flourished those Four famous foure famous men at that time that I was in Heidelberg; David Pareus publike professor of Divinity, Dionysius Gothofredus an excellent civiU Lawyer, Doctor Lingel semius and Janus Gruterus whom I have before mentioned, such as greatly gratified me in the citie. AU these from the first to the last have bene so excellent and learned writers that they have gotten themselves such a celebrity of name, as wiU never be extinguished while the fabricke of the world do last. Thus much of Heidelberg. I Departed from Heidelberg the eight day of September being Thursday about nine of the clocke in the morn ing, and came to the City of Spira which is twelve miles beyond it, about five of the clock in the afternoone. A great wood. Betwixt these two Cities I passed through a great wood, which by reason of the manifold turnings and windings of the way like a company of voluminous Meanders, did so exceedingly perplexe me, that I got out of the same with no small difficulty. About three miles before I came to Spira I was ferried over the Rhene in a boate. 230 [P. soi.] OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES My Observations of Spira commonly called Spier. THis City hath had two names, Spira and Nemetum ; Spires. whereof Spira was the ancientest : which Peucer affirmeth to have been imposed upon the City from the Greeke word a-jcelpa, which amongst many other signi fications signifieth also a Praetorian cohort. Because whereas Constantius Chlorus the father of Constantine the great was esteemed either the first founder or the inlarger thereof, (in which I have read he buried his mother Claudia the daughter of Flavius Claudius the Emperour, and the predecessour of the Emperour Aureli- anus) he placed a Praetorian cohort in this City for the defence both of the same place and of the territorie about it. Therefore seeing it doth manifestly appeare (saith Founding of Peucer) that Constantius made his Rendevous about these sP,res- places neare adjoyning to Spira, the conjecture is neither absurd nor aliene from the historicall truth, that Spira had her denomination from certain Grecian cohorts. But in processe of time this name Spira was converted to Neme tum from certaine people called Nemetes, who inhabited that territorie where the City now standeth, which name it retained for the space of many yeares till the yeare after Christs incarnation 1080. at what time it recovred her old name againe, by reason that a certaine Bishop whose name [p. 502.] was Rudiger (as Munster relateth the history) did include a certaine Village called Spira neare adjoyning to the said Spires also Nemetum (which indeede was the true remnant of the cte t ancient Spira built in the time of the foresaid Constantius) within the walles of the City. And by this meanes the old but not the first name Nemetum (received from the foresaid people Nemetes) was extinct : and the other name of Spira (the true ancient appellation first attributed unto it at the time of her originall foundation) rose againe. Since which time it hath continually retained the same name to this day, but with an addition of the name of the 231 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES people Nemetes. For it is commonly called Spira Neme tum. Againe Munster differing from the opinion of learned Peucer draweth the name of Spira from a certaine river so called, that issueth out of certaine hils not farre from the City. Which river (saith he) gave the name to the ancient village, and hath since communicated the same unto the City it selfe, because it runneth at this day through the City. But I preferring the opinion of Peucer had rather derive it from the Greeke word o-welpa signi fying a band of Souldiers (which me thinks is the more elegant derivation) then from the river Spira. Situation of The situation of it is very pleasant. For it standeth in Ptm' a fertill plaine, being watered partly by the foresaid river Spira that runneth through it, and partly by the noble Rhene, which indeede washeth not the waUes thereof as it doth Basil, Mentz, and Colen, and many other Cities and Townes, but is remote from it about the space of one furlong. The compasse of it is something larger then that of Heidelberg, and is invironed with goodly waUes that are exceedingly beautified both with batdements, and with very lofty * towers being of such a heigth that they equal the towers of many of our English Churches, the like whereof I have not seene in any place in my whole [p- 5°3-J journey, saving only one in Padua called Antenors tower whereof I have before spoken. Also many of these towers have peculiar gate-houses belonging to them, which doe greatly garnish the City, and make it very conspicuous Its fleets and a farre 0ff_ The streets are many, and very faire as weU tngs' for breadth as length ; especially the great streete that leadeth to the Cathedrall Church, which is on both sides five and thirty paces broade ; for I paced it : and decked with many sumptuous buildings that yeeld the farre fairer shew, because some of the principallest have their fronts very curiously painted. Also that exquisite forme of building their houses (whereof I have made mention before in my description of Strasbourg) by garnishing both the * These towers and their walles were built by one of their Bishops called Rudiger, of whom I have already spoken. 232 'mr.::: J-V.iYfY-. dimtlp tmimisfi :uj-. Sitsfui .Jierjum fortia facta vktcmt, FRID lUCV3i" 'dJuerte.-lnric fades CC Martia Virttis , AL, hifUtin, &tp.ira hinc cum victdtc fides. S ccytra ambus maqm moAcratitr r . ¦mpnnhusij? fane cedcrt vrisca GudfeU ta.M OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES endes with battlements, which are by little and little acuminated tiU they rise to a sharpe toppe, doth especially adorne their buildings. Which fashion I observed in Heidelberg also, and in most Cities both of higher and lower Germanie. The Churches of the City are in number sixteene, Churches of whereof foure are Collegiat, foure that are caUed Parish sPires- Churches, foure of Mendicant Friers, three of Nunnes, and one of Jesuits. Their Cathedrall Church is dedicated to our Lady, (which our eloquent but Apostate country man Robert Turner in a Tract intitled Triumphus Bavaricus, affirmeth to be as great a grace to this City as a white tooth to an ./Ethiopian) a very magnificent structure that yeeldeth a most gorgeous shew a farre off by reason of the foure lofty turrets built at the corners thereof, which to those that come towards the City do present a prety kinde of forme not unlike to a cradle. This Church was founded about the yeare 1030. by the Emperour Conrade the second surnamed Salicus. Who upon the twelfth day of Julie the same yeare placed the first fundamentall stone with his owne handes. But by reason that God called him out of the world before he could accomplish his worke, he injoyned his sonne Henry the third in his death-bedde, who succeeded him in the [p. 504.] Empire, to finish the building that he beganne, which was accordingly performed by his said sonne. I observed more monuments of Emperors and royall Many royal Persons buried in the Quire of this Church then in any monuments. other whatsoever in my whole voyage. For here lie the bodies of eight German Emperors and two Empresses, besides many other worthy wights of both sexes. The Emperors I will reckon by degrees in order as they reigned. The first was Conradus Salicus the sixteenth German Emperor, and the first of the imperiall familie of Fran- conia, who was founder of the Church as I have already said. Here was he buried after he had reigned fifteene yeares, his body being translated hither from the City of Utricht in the Netherlands, where he died in the yeare 233 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Henry III. seventeenth German Emperor. Henry IV. eighteenth German Emperor. [p. 505.] Henry V. nineteenth GermanEmperor. 1039. Also his wife Gisela the daughter of Lotharius King of France was buried in the same place about five yeares after. The second was Henry the third the seven teenth German Emperor surnamed the Blacke, the foresaid Conradus his sonne by his wife Gisela, who died in the yeare 1056. of his age forty, of his Empire seventeene, being choaked with a morsell of bread. There was he interred the fifth day of November which was the same day that he was borne. Their monuments I saw in the middle of the Quire, being not built with that royall magnificence as the Tombes of great Potentates are in this ambitious age. There were some other royaU Peeres of the same stocke or familie buried there also : but every one hath not his severaU epitaph. For this one short epitaph serveth for them all. Filius hic, pater hic, avus hic, proavus jacet istic, Hic Proavi conjux, hic Henrici senioris. By Proavi conjux is meant the Empresse Gisela, by Henrici senioris the Empresse Bertha. The third was Flenry the fourth, the eighteenth Germane Emperour surnamed the elder, the former Henry his sonne by the Empresse Agnes the daughter of the Duke of Aquitanie : this is that heroicaU and martiaU Emperour that fought sixtie two battels in the field, in most whereof hee got the victorie : hee died in Liege upon the seventh day of August, in the fiftie and sixe yeare of his age after he had reigned fortie nine yeares, and in the yeare of our Lord 1 106. his body was brought to Spira, five yeares after his death (during al which time it was kept above ground in the foresaid Citie of Liege, and deprived of the honour of buriaU by the Popes commandment) where he was interred neere to his wife Bertha the daughter of Otto an Italian Marquesse ; shee was buried there about nineteene yeares before, in the yeare 1087. her body being translated thither from the Citie of Mentz. The fourth was Henry the fifth, the nineteenth Germane Emperour, surnamed the yonger, the foresaid Henry the fourths sonne by his 234 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES wife Bertha : his body was brought thither from Utricht, where he died the tenth day of August 1 125. after hee had reigned nineteene yeares. The fifth is Philip borne in Philip of the Citie of Bamberg, once Duke of Suevia, the foure and Bamberg. twentieth German Emperour, and the fifth sonne of that famous and victorious Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa by his wife Beatrix : hee was slaine by Otto Palatine of Whittelbach in his Chamber in Bamberg, when his Physi- tion did let him bloud upon the tenth day of July in the yeare 1208. after he had reigned ten yeares. His body was first buried in the Cathedrall Church of Bamberg neere the Emperour Henry surnamed the Holy, and afterward by the Emperour Fredericke the second brought to Spira. His monument is graced with no other Epitaph, but this short inscription : Philippus Bambergensis. The sixth, Rodolphus Habspurgensis the two and thirtieth Rodolph of German Emperor, who died in a towne called Germers- HaPsburg- heim seated upon a banke of the Rhene, the eighteenth day of August in the year 1291. of his age seventie and [p. 506.] three, of his Empire nineteene : from the same hee was brought to Spira shortly after his death, and buried here with the rest. The seventh Adolphus Nassousensis the Adolf of successor of the foresaid Rodolphus, who after hee had a"au' reigned eighteene yeares, was slaine neare this Citie upon the sixth day of July in the yeare 1298. by Albertus Austriacus afterward Emperour and the sonne of the Emperour Rodolphus Habspurgensis. For they fought a Duell, that is, a single combat in a field hard by Spira, where Albert suddenly invaded Adolphus as soone as hee was dismounted from his horse ; for as Adolphus was rising up to take horse againe, Albert prevented him, and with his sword did cut his throate. The eight and last Emperour is the foresaid Albert, of whom I will make no more mention in this place, but that hee was buried here. Because in my discourse of the Monasterie of Kiningsfelden in Switzerland I have written a large history 23S CORYAT'S CRUDITIES of his most lamentable end, and of the translating of his body to this place. Besides the Monuments of aU those renowned persons intombed in the Quire, I also saw in the same place a memorable inscription in Latine verses concerning the persons themselves, which because I was barred of the opportunitie to write them out before I departed out of the place, by good fortune I procured the same of a learned man of the Citie, who recited them to me perfectly by heart, even these. Epitaph of the Famosi Reges, clari Comitesque Ducesque, Emperors. £t Regmarum nobilis usque phalanx : Hoc in magnifico (dum stabunt secula) templo Vestrarum laudum fama perennis erit. Quippe domo nostra, cui munera magna dedistis, Haud frustra placuit corpora vestra tegi. Sperastis precibus animas quandoque levari, Hic facilem ad superos spes erat esse viam. [p. 5°7-] Vivite faelices asterna laude sepulti, Quoram animas ccelum, corpora terra tenet. In the body of the Church I saw many things very worthy the observation. But two of them are more memorable then the rest. Therefore I wiU name them Relics of Saint nrst_ These were matters concerning Saint Bernard Abbot of Claraval in Burgundy. The one his salutation to the Virgine Mary. The other a coppy of a certaine Epistle that he wrote to the Bishop of Spira &c. His salutation to the Virgin Mary is a most notable matter, which I was the more willing to observe, because I had both read, and often heard of it before I came thither. The history is this. When Saint Bernard came at a certaine time to the this Citie of Spira, he went to the Cathedral] Church to serve God, and as soone as he came within the first dore at the west end of the Church, he kneeled very devoutly upon his knees, and zealously elevating both his hands he saluted the image of the Virgin Mary (which is shewed to this day at one corner of the 236 Bernard. OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES outside of the Quire on the right hand thereof as you enter into the Church from the west dore) with these three Saint salutations, which for the better confirmation of the Bernard's memory of the matter to posterity were shortly after sar^tatims written in three severall places of the Church where he kneeled, being the space of thirty five foote distant asunder. The first was this, written in capitall letters it. the same manner as I present it to thee. O CLEMENS MARIA. Which wordes are cut in brasen letters within a round peece of blew marble. But the word Maria is written otherwise then the rest. For it is contrived in that manner that the 5. letters of her name are severally made in the 5. leaves of a rose, which are very curiously represented [p- 5°8-] in the same peece of marble. In the middle stone where he kneeled the second time, is written his second saluta tion. O DULCIS MARIA. In the third his last salutation. O PI A MARIA. It is reported that the image did utter a voyce at that time A 'peaking to Saint Bernard very like to a living and articulate voice ma&- of a man, by way of thanking & commending him for his devotion. But what the speech was I could not reade in any authentick author (though I know Robert Turner whome I have mentioned a little before, writeth in his Triumphus Bavaricus, that the image made this answere : Gratus ades nobis Bernarde,) nor heare from the report of any learned man. Yet I was very inquisitive for the 237 is epistle. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES matter in Spira amongst the learned of all sorts both Protestants and Papists, no man being able to teU me. But the answere that Saint Bernard made to the image I meane to conceale till some other edition of my booke after my future travels, (if God shall mercifully prolong my life to accomplish some other outlandish voyage) and that for certaine reasons of no meane importance which I wiU not discover to the world. The other memorable thing of Saint Bernard that I saw [p. 509.] in the body of this Church, was a coppy of a certaine S?mt , Epistle that he wrote to the Bishop of Spira, the Clergie, "'""'"'' an(j the people of the citie, to the end to exhort them to joine their helpe and assistance unto those heroicall Princes that did in his daies undertake that famous voyage under the conduct of Godfrie Duke of Bouloigne to conquer the holy land, and eject the barbarous Saracens and Paynims that had possessed the same. Howbeit in this Epistle he maketh no mention at al of the foresaid Godfrie. I finde that St. Bernard lived about forty sixe yeares after he wrote this Epistle. For whereas it is very likely that he wrote it about the time of the CounceU of Clermont in France which was assembled by Pope Urban the second, of pur pose to animate the Christian Princes to undertake that honourable expedition for the expugning of the holy land ; that Councell was holden anno 1 094. and St. Bernard died 1 140. about the end of the raigne of the Emperour Lotharius the second. Surely the sight of the episde did much comfort my heart, and in a manner refocillate my spirits. It is written in a very ancient peece of Parch ment (which seemeth to be very neere five hundred yeares old, as being written either in the time of St. Bernard himselfe, which is almost so long since, or very shordy after) and hanged upon one of the piUars on the right hand of the Church. First of all this in red letters : Hasc est epistola quam beatus Bernardus tem pore illo ad passagium ad hortandum misit Domino Episcopo Spirensi, Clero, et populo universo. Next foUoweth Saint Bernards owne superscription which 238 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES was this. Domino et patri *karissimo venerabili Epis- copo Spirensi, et universo, Clero, et populo, Bernardus Clarevallensis vocatus Abbas in spiritu fortitudinis abun- dare : then foUoweth the epistle itselfe in the latine tongue, which because I cannot communicate to my country for a meere novelty (for it hath bene commonly printed in all the editions of Saint Bernards workes, being in number the three hundreth two and twentieth epistle) I will not [p. 510.] set downe in Latin, supposing that many learned men will censure it for a superfluous labour, seeing it hath bene these many hundred yeares so common in the world. Yet since it was my hap to finde it out as I walked alone in the Cathedrall Church of Spira whereof I now write, being indeede a most excellent treatise in respect of the worthi- nesse both of the argument and the author ; I thought it not impertinent to translate it according to my meane skil into our vulgar tongue (which I never heard to be done before by any man whatsoever : ) submitting my simple translation to the favorable censure of the curteous reader. The Epistle I say itselfe is this. Am to treate with you about a businesse of Christ, Saint in whom is all our salvation. This I speake that Bernards the authority of the Lord may excuse the unworthi- Jwfofo/, nesse of the person of the speaker, and that the considera tion of selfe-utility may excuse it also. I wis I am but a meane man, yet I doe not meanely desire you all in the bowels of Jesus Christ. Now then there is that occasion of my writing unto you that I dare presume to salute the whole community of you with my letters. More gladly would I doe it by word of mouth, if as I want not wiU, so also I had opportunity to performe it. Lo fnow (my brethren) is the acceptable time, lo now is the day of plenti ful salvation. For the earth hath moved and trembled, * Thus was this word written even with the letter k at the beginning, according to that olde and obselete manner. t 2. Cor. 6. cap. 2. ve. 239 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Saint because the God of heaven hath begunne to lay waste his Bernard s owne land. His I say, wherein he hath bene seene to teach Englished. t^le WOI"d of his Father, and man with men to converse for the space of thirtie yeares and more. His certainly, since he hath illustrated it with so many miracles, and dedicated Tp- 511-] it with his owne bloud, in which the first flowers of resur rection budded, and now our sinnes requiring it, the adversaries of the Crosse have sacrilegiously made head, wasting in the face of the sword the land of promise. For now it is weU neare come to passe, if there be no bodie to resist, that they will rush into the very Citie of the living God, overthrow the very shops of our redemption, and pollute those holy places which were purpled with the bloud of the Lambe immaculate. Yea they yawne with sacrilegious mouthes (out alas) to enter the very sanctuary of Christian religion, and they endeavour to invade and tread under feete that very bed wherein our Ufe for our sakes hath slept in death. What doe ye valiant men? what doe ye that are the servants of the Crosse? what, wil ye give that which is holy unto dogs, f& pearls unto swine? how many sinners having there confessed their sinnes with teares have obtained pardon, after that the uncleannesse of the Pagans hath bene banished out of the Citie by the swords of our forefathers? the maUcious man sees this, and envies at it, gnasheth his teeth, and pines away. He stirreth up the vessels of his iniquity, intend ing not to leave as much as any print or step of so great devotion, at the least if he can seise upon (which God forbid) those JHolyes of Holyes. And that would be to all ages a most disconsolate griefe, because the losse is irrecoverable, but especially unto this most impious generation it would breed an infinite confusion, and shame everlasting. But what thinke we brethren? what, is the hand of the Lord §shortned or become weake to save, in that he calles his little wormes to preserve and restore unto him his inheritance? what, is he not able to send more then twelve legions of Angels, or but say the word, and fMatth. 7. cap. 6. ve. J Sancta Sanctorum. §Esay 57, cap. ve. 2. 240 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES your land shall be delivered ? verily it is in his power to Saint do it when he list. But I tell you the Lord God doth trie Bernard's you. He lookes backe upon the sonnes of men if ^"l/l^ there be any that understands, and enquires for || her, and bemoanes her case. For the Lord hath pitie on his people, [p- 5 ' Z-J and doth provide a wholesome remedie for those that are grievously fallen. Consider how great cunning he doth use to save you, and be amazed at it. Behold the depth of his pietie, and be of good cheere O ye sinners. He will not your death, but that ye may be converted and live. For he seekes an occasion not against you, but for you. For what is it but a studied occasion of salvation & picked out only by God himselfe, that the omnipotent doth vouchsafe to quit from their bondage murderers, robbers, adulterers, perjured men, and those that are vassals to other crimes, as if they were a nation that had wrought righteousnesse? Doe *not distrust 6 ye sinners, the Lord is debonaire. If he meant to punish you, he would not only not crave your service, but would not entertaine it being offered by you. I say againe, weigh the riches of the goodnesse of the most high God, observe the counsell of his mercy, he either makes himselfe to have want, or seemes as though he had, while he covets to relieve your necessities. He will be held a debtor that he may give wages unto those that serve in his warfare, even indulgence of sinnes, and everlasting glory. Blessed may I call the generation whom so plentifull a time of indulgence layes hold upon, whom that pleasing yeare to the Lord and truly Jubilie doth finde alive. For this blessing is dispersed over all the world, and to the ensigne of life all men flie together with a kinde of contention. Therefore for as much as your territorie is fruitfuU of f valiant men, and knowen to be fuU of such as are in the HThe Citie of Jerusalem. * Joel 2. t In the Latin coppy of Saint Bernards Epistle I find these wordes. Quia erg6 fcecunda vitiorum terra vestra, &c. wherein I observe a fault. For I am perswaded that that word vitiorum should be virorum. Other wise there can be no sense in it. The consideration whereof hath induced me to translate it accordingly. CC, II 241 Q CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Saint prime of their youth (as your praise is spread all over, and Bernard's tne fame Qf y0ur prowesse hath fiUed the whole world) be Englished Yee a*so couragiously girt, and in zeale of the Christian name betake yourselves to happy armes. Let former not warfare but malice cease, wherewith yee are wont mutuaUy to destroy one another, that yee might be mutuaUy con sumed. What direfullwilfulnesse stirreth up wretches, that [p- 5 '3-] neighbours should pierce that body whose soule perhaps is in case to perish. But he shall not escape to boast of it, and a sword hath pierced him to the very soule when he doth but onely rejoyce at the fall of his enemie. To expose ones selfe to such a danger, were a token of madnesse, not of prowesse. Neyther might it be ascribed to hardinesse, but rather to folly. Now thou hast couragious soldier, thou hast warlicke man where thou maiest skirmish with out danger, where it is both a glory to conquer, and to die a gaine. If thou art a wise and thriving Merchant, if a: purchaser of this world, I bring thee tydings of a great fayre, see thou slippe it not. Take the signe of the crosse, and thou shalt obtaine indulgence of aU thy sinnes- whereof thou shalt make a confession with a contrite heart. , The matter it self if it be bought, is had for little or, nothing. If it bee taken upon a devout shoulder, without , doubt it is worth the Kingdome of God. WeU therefore. have they done that have aheady taken the heavenly. cognisance, and others may doe weU to lay hold on thatr which may availe to their salvation. Touching the, rest I advise you (my brethren) yet not I, but also, Gods * Apostle with me, that credite is not to be given to. every spirit. We have heard and rejoice how the spirit. of God boileth in you : but it is altogether necessary that ~ a due temperature of knowledge be not wanting. The Jewes are not to be persecuted, nor to be slaine, no not so much as to bee banished from you. Aske yourselves [ the holy Scriptures. I know what is read in the. § Psalme prophesied of the Jewes. God shewes me (quoth ' the Church) concerning my enemies, that thou kill them * I John 4. § 50. 242 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES not, least at any time my people prove forgetful. They Saint are certaine living marks pointing out unto us the Lords Bernard s passion. For this cause they have beene dispersed into all %nStJisnea- Countreys, that while they sustaine the just punishment of so great a crime, they may be witnesses of our redemption. Whereupon the Church speaking in the same psalm addeth [p. 514.] this, Disperse them in thy vertue, and put them downe 0 Lord my protector : which hath accordingly come to passe. For they are dispersed, they are put downe, they sustaine hard captivity under Christian Princes. Not withstanding about the evening they shall be converted, & there will be a respect had of them in time. Finally, when the multitude of the Gentiles shall enter in, then all Israel (saith the f Apostle) shall be saved. But in the meane time whosoever dieth, remaineth in death. I say not that wheresoever they J are not, we grieve that Christian usurers doe worse Judaize, at the least if they ought to be fitly called Christians, and not rather baptized Jewes. If the Jewes are altogether confounded, how then shaU their salvation or conversion promised in the end, prosper? Surely the very Gentiles themselves (if their conversion were likewise to be expected) were rather to be forborne then * smitten with the sword. But now since they first began to offer violence unto us, it behoveth those that doe not carry the swordes in vaine, to repulse force with force. Yet it is a part of Christian piety as to conquer the proud, so also to spare subjects, especially those whose the lawe is by promise, those from whome the Fathers were decended, and from whom Christ sprang according to the flesh, which is blessed for ever. How beit it were to be required of them, according to the tenor of the ApostolicaU mandate, that they should altogether exempt al those free from the exaction of usurie that shall take on them the badge of the crosse. Also it is necessary (my most beloved brethren) that if any man perhaps t Rom. 11. | The Jewes. * In most of the Latine copies it is expetendi. But it is false. For it must be petendi. 243 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Saint Bernard'sepistle Englished. [P-S'S-] A sumptuous pulpit. desirous to be cheefe amongst you, would by his forward- nesse forestall the government of the armie, yee give no f eare at all unto him : and if he make as though he were sent from us, it is not true. Or if he sheweth letters sent as from us, ye may say they are altogether false, that I may not call them furtive. Ye ought to choose warlike men, and Chieftains expert in those affaires, and to take order that the armie of the Lord may march together, that It may every where have strength, and may not sustaine violence from any whatsoever. For there was a certaine man in the first voiage before Jerusalem was taken, caUed Peter, of whome ye also (unlesse I am deceived) have often heard mention. He marching alone with his soldiers, exposed the people that believed him, to so great dangers, that either none of them or very few escaped, that perished not either with hunger or the sword. Therefore it is altogether to be feared that if yee shall doe the like, the like may happen unto you also. Which God turne from you that is blessed for ever. Amen. Having now ended those two things that I said before were the most memorable of all in the body of this Church, I will digresse to some other matter, and wiU first make mention of a certain pulpit that standeth on the left hand of the body of this Church, as you come into it from the street. I suppose that some hyper-criticaU carpers wiU taxe me of vanity for adding such triviaU things to my Observations, as descriptions of Pulpits. But I crave pardon of them although I describe this pulpit of Spira. For it was so glorious and resplendent an architecture, that I was unwilling to let it passe unmentioned, being the fairest thing of that nature that I saw in my travels, saving one onely pulpit before mentioned in my discourse of the City of Amiens. Which notwithstanding in some respects is inferiour to this whereof I now speake. The roofe or covering of this sumptuous pulpit is made but of wainscot, but so wonderfull gorgeously gilt, and adorned with t The ordinary Latine text is false. For instead of audeat it must be audiatur. 244 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES sundry colours, that it yeeldeth a shew most beautifull : in certaine square peeces of this roofe I read these sacred poesies. The first this. * Hodie si vocem ejus audieritis, Inscriptions on nolite obdurare corda vestra. In the lower square this, the roof of the Beati qui audiunt verbum Domini & custodiunt illud. A PuPlU little under this fPraedica verbum, insta opportune, im- [p- 5l6-l portune, argue, obsecra, increpa in omni patientia & doctrina. The other part of the pulpit is exceeding sumptuous also, being made of white free-stone, which is so faire that it may compare with some kinde of alabaster, and garnished with curious images, works, and borders most richly gilt, and decked with many sentences taken out of the holy Scriptures. In the inside of the dore where the preacher ascendeth the pulpit, this is written in golden letters. JAscendo ad patrem meum & patrem vestrum. Also these sentences are written in the outside of the pulpit about the compasse as the Preacher doth ascend. Inscriptions on §Quomodo prasdicabunt nisi mittantur? sicut scriptum the outside of est. Quam preciosi pedes Evangelizantium pacem, Evangelizantium bona? Next this. *Euntes in mun- dum universum prasdicate Evangelium omni creaturae. Againe this, f Dominus dabit verbum Evangelizantibus virtute multa. Then this. £Clama, ne cesses, quasi tuba exalta vocem tuam, & annuncia populo meo scelera eorum. All these sentences are written in one row. Under these in the lower part of that curious stony compasse this is written. §In novissimo autem die magno stabat Jesus & clamabat, dicens, Si quis sitit, veniat ad me & bibat. Likewise there are set forth in the outside of this exquisite workemanship the images of the foure Doctors of the Latin Church. St. Augustine and St. Ambrose in their Episcopall habites, St. Hierome in his Cardinals weedes. St. Gregorie with his triple crowne. Our Lady with Christ in her armes. St. Stephen Pope, and two Bishops more whose names are not expressed. * Psal. 94. t 2 Tim. 4. cap. % John 20. v. 1 7. §Rom. 10. 15. *Mar. 16. 15. t Psal. 67. 12. | Esa. 58. ver. 1. §John 7. 37. 245 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The seven works of mercy. [P- 517-J Monument to a Bishop. Also the seven workes of mercy are after an historicaU manner very artificially represented in stone. Under the first this is written in golden letters. Esurientes pascere. Under the second. Potum dare sitientibus. Under the third. Operire nudos. Under the fourth. Captivos redimere. Under the fifth. iEgrotos invisere. Under the sixth. Hospitio peregrinos suscipere. Under the seventh. Mortuos sepelire. Also the base of this pulpit is very sumptuous, on both sides whereof there are inserted peeces of touch-stone. In one side this is written. Eber- hardus Dei gratia Episcopus Spirensis & Praspositus Weissenburgensis, Imperialis Cameras Judex, &c. Cathe- dram hanc in honorem Dei omnipotentis & ornamentum celeberrimae hujus basilicas nova hac forma, construi & erigi fecit Anno Salutis humanas. M.D.X.C.V. nihil aUud optans quam ut posteritas ex hoc loco verbum Dei pie & CathoUce erudita, fusis ad Deum precibus, semper sui grato animo meminisse velit. On the other side of the base this also is written in another peece of touch-stone. Reverendissi- mus Princeps & Dominus Restaurator hujus Cathedra Eberhardus a Dienheim electus fuit in Episcopum Anno Domino M. D. Lxxxi. aetatis suae xxxix. Et in Judicem Cameras solito juramento receptus ultima Aprilis cum xxvii. ejusdem ante solenni equitatu in urbem Spirensem esset ingressus Anno Salutis Humanae M. D. Lxxxiiii. obiit Anno aetatis suae, *&c. Episcopatus, &c. On the left hand of the bodie of the Church there is a passing sumptuous monument of one of the Bishops of Spira, whose image is made at length with a representation of his EpiscopaU habits, and many curious workes and histories are exceUently cut in stone. Also it is adorned with many sentences of Scripture. At the very top of all this is written. Si charitatem non habuero, nihil sum: and under that : Repleti sunt omnes spiritu sancto, where the effigies of a dove is carved. Above the effigies of Christ this in golden letters. Mihi autem absit gloriari nisi in cruce Domini nostri Jesu Christi. Gal. 6. under that * The yeare is not expressed in the original. 246 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES againe. Vigilate, quia nescitis diem neque horam. Matth. 25. under that, his Epitaph in golden letters, which is this. Reverendissimo Principi ac Domino Domino Marquardo ab Hattstein Episcopo Spirensi & Prasposito Weissenbur- gensi Csesareas Majestatis Consiliario, ac Imperialis Cameras Judici pro laudatissimas memoriae, dum vixit, pietate, doc- trina, authoritate, rerum experientia, consiliis, & singulari [p. 518.] prudentia conspicuo & celeberrimo, nee non de Ecclesia Spirensi multis modis optime merito, monumentum hoc pietatis & nunquam apud posteritatem intermorituras recordationis ergo poni fecerunt ejus heredes. Obiit autem aetatis suae 51. Episcopatus 21. Judicatus 21. 7. Decembris. Anno Domini 1581. cujus anima requiescat in pace. Amen, under that is written this sentence. In principio creavit Deus cesium & terram. Gen. 1. under which sentence the historie of the creation of the world is very curiously expressed in stone. Opposite unto this there is erected on the right hand of Another the Church a faire monument of another Bishop of Spira, momment. whose image is made at length also as that of the former, with his episcopaU habits, and under the same this Epitaph is written. Reverendo atque illustri Domino D. Georgio Episcopo Spirensi ac Com. Palat. Rheni Ducique Bavariae admiranda. dementia, prudentia, & pietate undique con spicuo, ac demum flagranti Anglico sudore immatura, morte defuncto, pius in Episcopatu Successor Philippus a Flersheim hoc monumentum instituit. Obiit autem Anno Salutis 1529. die 28. Septembris, qui asterna. luce fruatur. There is adjoyning to the South side of this Church a A goodly goodly cloister, in the which I observed an exceeding clotster- multitude of ancient monuments wherewith the cloyster is beautified round about, but the time would not give me leave to write them out. For I made my aboad in this city but one whole day. This cloyster invironeth a very pleasant greene quadrangular Court, in the midst whereof there is the most memorable thing of that kinde that I saw in my travels, even a representation of the 247 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES mount Olivet. This is (in my opinion) one of the most exquisite works in all Europe, built in a round forme, and raised to the height of some forty foote by my estima tion. It is supported with sixe goodly pillars of free stone, within the which is described the history of Christs praying [p. 519.] upon the Mount Olivet, for there he is represented pro strate upon his knees, and elevating his hands when he prayed to his Father. Also three of his disciples are pourtraied sleeping in as many several places apart. The whole fabricke within those piUars consisteth of many Representation notable devices. There are two very artificiaU rayles of of Mount stone contrived in the maine worke, and within the same Olivet. there stand the pourtraitures of ten souldiers having as many severaU and distinct weapons in their hands. In another place are pourtraied five soldiers more standing together, and concluding how they may take Jesus. Also Judas comming to kisse his master with a treacherous kisse is excellently presented. About the top of the Mount where there standeth an AngeU with a crosse in his hand, the figures of olives are very cunningly expressed. Like wise round about the rocke (for the lower part of this structure is made in the form of a rock) they are so arti- ficiaUy made, that they yeeld a most delectable shew. Within the rocke is a little Chappell having windowes made in the maine rocke to conveigh in the Ught. Here every Friday is Masse said. The outside of the building is inclosed with a faire inclosure of stone worke. Upon the which, round about the same, is made a faire compasse or rayle of yron, such as we caU in Latine CanceUi, of some two yardes high that incompasseth the whole worke. Also the tops of those barres are headed like the forkes of arrowes, to the end that no man shaU come within the place. There is but one onely dore that leadeth to this Mount Olivet and the Chappell within the same. To conclude, such is the strange curiositie of this worke, that it driveth all the beholders into admiration, and is a thing of such fame that few strangers come to the Citie but see it before they goe forth againe. 248 OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES Who was the first Bishop of this Citie I cannot finde. Bishopric of But I have read that there was a Bishopricke instituted in Spires. the same before 348 yeares after Christ. From which time [p- 520-] till the reigne of Dagobert King of France, it was exceed ingly eclipsed and deceased. But the same King well repaired it againe, and created Athanasius that was one of his Chaplaines, Bishop of Spira about the yeare 610. since which time there have bene many famous Bishops, whereof those of later yeares have bene stiled with the titles of Princes : he that was Bishop when I was there, was called Eberhardus Adinheim, who was about the age of threescore yeares when I was in the Citie: one that alwaies resideth at a Palace he hath in the countrie, as the rest of his predecessors have done these many yeares. Thus much of the Cathedrall Church and the Bishopricke. I Was in the Colledge of the Jesuites who used me verie College of the kindly. But one especially above all the rest, whose Jesuits. name was Jonas Keinperger the chiefe of the Jesuiticall family, who shewed me their librarie, where I saw a notable company of goodly bookes, But in one of them I observed a matter that argued the injurious and naughty dealing of the Jesuits. For whereas amongst the rest of their bookes they had Munsters Cosmography, I looked into it to informe my selfe something of the antiquities of the Citie, and by chance turning over some leaves, I found notable places expunged by these criticall Aristarches, and demanded of them why they did deface any part of so famous an authors workes. They answered me that Munster was an heretike and an apostate, affirming that after he had renounced his Monkish religion, he main tained many heretical points in his writings. Wherefore because there were certaine matters in his Cosmography that made against the faith of the Catholike Church of Rome, they would not suffer them to remaine in the booke. How these men and others of divers Papisticall orders have dealt with the Fathers of the Church also, and 249 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Church of the Jesuits, divers godly authors of great antiquitie by their wicked falsifications, putting out those things that have made [p. 521.] against them, and supplying the same with some com- mentitiall forgeries of their owne braines, it doth evidently appeare to the world by the Index expurgatorius printed at Geneva and Strasbourg. I found one of those Jesuites so skilfuU in some of our English histories, that he dis coursed unto me of certaine ancient matters of old Brittaine, especiaUy of our Kings of Northumberland. In their Library they keepe the picture of their Bishop Eber- hardus above named, because he hath shewed himselfe a great benefactor unto them. Father Jonas shewed me their Church also. Which though it be not very great, yet it is exceeding glorious and beautifull, being garnished with a great multitude of faire pictures and images. Their table above the high Altar is a passing sumptuous thing. But I could not perceive the inward glory thereof, because it is most commonly shut, and never opened but upon speciaU daies. At the upper end of the Church there are certaine seates made onely for Earles, Countesses, and other great persons to sit in, who do eftsoones repayre to their Masses, as Father Jonas told me. And by the sides of their walles in the inside of the Church, they have lately made five very curious seates of wainscot, three on one side, & two on another, for the Priest to sit in, to the end to heare the confessions of offenders. All this Church was built within these few yeares, not at their owne cost, but meerely by the benevolence and liberality of weU dis posed benefactors that have bountifuUy contributed to the building thereof. Of the Fraternitie of these Jesuites there are onely twentie. I heard that there were certaine temples of idolatrie heretofore in this city erected by the Ethnicks, before it was converted to Christianity, & those in number three; which is also confirmed by Munster, whereof one was dedicated to Diana, which was nere to the place where the Cathedrall Church now standeth. An other to Mer cury in a place where there was afterward a Monastery 250 Ancient temples. OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES of Benedictine Monkes. And the third to Venus, upon [p- 522-] a hiU at the west end of the city, where I observed the Church of Saint Guido ; but at last Dagobert King of France demolished them all, so that now there are not to be seene vel Vestigia quidem, as much as the least ruines thereof ; but only the places where they stood. Attila King of the Hunnes after he marched out of Spires sacked Hungary and Austria with his huge Armie to conquer h Attila. Germany, greatly wasted this city of Spira, ransacking it after a most cruell and mercilesse manner with fire and sword, as he did other of the German cities that I have already described, and others also that I shaU hereafter describe. This City doth not embrace that unity of religion that Protestant and the cities of Strasbourg, Basil, and the other reformed Paf.ls.1 cities of Switzerland, but is distracted into a double religion, Protestant and Papisticall ; the Protestant pro fessing the Lutheran Doctrine, beeing the predominant part, though the Cathedrall Church belongeth to the Papistes in regard their Bishop is a Papist. For a learned preacher of the city one Nicolaus Frisius that used me very curteously, told me that most of the principall families professe the reformed religion. But there is a kind of murmuring betwixt both parts, though it be so concealed that it breaketh not out into any open jarres, full liberty of conscience & exercise of religion being permitted to each faction without any contradiction. Now it were fitte to speake something of the governe- ment of this noble city, and to mention their principaU Magistrates, their affaires in justice, and such other memorable pointes of policy, as the description of so worthy a City doth require. But seeing I made so shorte aboade there, I hope thou wilt be satisfied with the premisses. Only I can say that it is an imperiall city. Therfore let this suffice for Spira. Thus much of Spira. [I departed 251 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [p- S23-] T Departed from Spira about eight of the clocke in the J. morning the tenth day of September being Saturday, after I had made my aboade there all friday, and came to the Worms. beautifull city of Wormes about sixe of the clock in the afternoon. This daies journey was seventeen miles. Betwixt Spira and Franckendall twelve, and from that to Wormes five. I observed that aU the tract betwixt these two cities doth yeeld a most fertile & pleasant soyle that bringeth forth abundance of all manner of commodities, as corne, grapes, fruites, all manner of rootes, and what not ? Frankenthal. I observed that in Franckendal which I never saw in any city or towne before, and I have not heard of the Uke to be seene in any city of Christendome saving only in the city of Nancy the Metropolitan of Lorraine. For aU the houses of the towne are newly built, having bene raised from the foundations within fifty yeares, as I heard in Spira. Before which time FranckendaU was the name of a Monastery onely and not of a Towne. Part of the Monastery being defaced, the whole Church remayneth to this day, being the onely Church of the Towne, and a very goodly building, which a man may see a farre off from every quarter of the country. This Monastery was built in the time of the Emperour Henry the fift about the yeare 1119. by a certaine rich Gendeman of the city of Wormes caUed Eckenbertus Kemerer, who converted his whole estate into money, and bestowed the same upon the building of this Monastery, which he devided into two parts, & distinguished it by the names of the greater and the lesser Monastery. For the greater served for Monkes, whereof he himselfe having abandoned the world, was the first Abbot ; and the other for Nunnes, whereof his wife Richlindus was the first Abbesse. But now this Monastery is alienated from Popish uses, the Church being possessed by the Protestants of the towne that [p. 524.] professe the same religion that we doe in England, where they hear Gods word truly preached, & receive the Sacra ments duely administred. I observed one faire street in 252 OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKENTHAL this towne which is much graced with the new buildings. For all the buildings of the towne being new (as I said before) they yeeld the much fayrer shew. Also I saw a goodly market place in the towne. More then this I cannot speake of Franckendall because I made no aboade at aU there, but only glanced through it in my way to Wormes. Thus much of Franckendall. THere hapned unto me a certaine disaster about the A disaster. middest of my journey betwixt Franckendall and Wormes, the like whereof I did not sustaine in my whole journey out of England. Which was this. I stept aside into a vineyard in the open field that was but a litle distant from the high waie, to the end to taste of their grapes wherewith I might something asswage my thirst : hoping that I might as freely have done it there, as I did often times before in many places of Lombardie without any controulement. There I pulled two little clusters of them, and so returned into my way againe travelling securely and jovially towards Wormes, whose lofty Towers I saw neere at hand. But there came a German Boore upon me An angry (for so are the clownes of the country commonly called) *"""'• with a halbert in his hand, & in a great fury pulled off very violently my hat from my head (as I have expressed in the frontispice of my booke) looked very fiercely upon me with eyes sparkling fire in a manner, and with his Almanne wordes which I understood not, swaggered most insolently with me, holding up his halbert in that threat- ning manner at me, that I continually expected a blow, and was in deadly feare lest he would have made me a prey for the wormes before I should ever put my foote in the gallant City of Wormes. For it was in vaine for me to IP- 525-] make any violent resistance, because I had no more weapon then a weake staffe, that I brought with me out of Italy. Although I understood not his speeches, yet I gathered by his angry gestures that the onely cause of his quarrel was for that he saw me come 253 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES forth of a vineyard (which belike was his maisters) ] with a bunch of grapes in my hand. All this while that he threatned me with these menacing termes I stood before \ him almost as mute as a Seriphian frogge, or an Acanthian * grashopper, scarce opening my mouth once unto him, because I thought that as I did not understand him, so likewise on the other side he did not understand me. At length with my tongue I began to reencounter him, tooke \ heart a grace, and so discharged a whole voUey of Greeke ' and Latin shot upon him, supposing that it would bee an occasion to pacifie him somewhat if he did but onely thereby conceive that I had a little learning. But the implacable Clowne *Non magis incepto vultum sermone movetur Quam si dura silex, aut stet Marpessia cautes. And was so farre from being mitigated with my strange Rhetoricke, that he was rather much the more exasperated against me. In the end after many bickerings had passed Friends in betwixt us, three or foure good feUowes that came from need. Wormes, glaunced by, and inquired of me what the quarrell was. I being not able to speake Dutch asked them whether any of the company could speake Latin. Then immediately one replyed unto me that he could. Whereupon I discovered unto him the whole circumstance of the matter, and desired him to appease the rage of that inexorable and unpleasant peasant, that he might restore my hat againe to me. Then he like a very sociable companion interposed himselfe betwixt us as a mediator. But first he told me that I had committed a penal trespasse in presuming to gather grapes in a vineyard without leave, [p. 526.] affirming that the Germanes are so exceeding sparing of their grapes, that they are wont to fine any of their owne countreymen that they catch in their vineyards without leave, either with purse or body ; much more a stranger. Notwithstanding he promised to do his endevour to get my hat againe, because this should be a warning for me, *iEnei. 6. 254 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS and for that he conceived that opinion of me that I was a good fellow. And so at last with much adoe this contro- versie was compounded betwixt the cuUian and my selfe, my hat being restored unto me for a smaU price of redemp tion, which was twelve of their little coynes called fennies, which countervaile twenty pence of our English money. But I would counsel thee gentle reader whatsoever thou Counsel to art that meanest to traveU into Germany, to beware by my travellers. example of going into any of their vineyardes without leave. For if thou shalt happen to be apprehended in ipso facto (as I was) by some rustical and barbarous Corydon of the country, thou mayest perhaps pay a farre deerer price for thy grapes then I did, even thy dearest blood. My Observations of Wormacia Otherwise called civitas Vangionum, but most commonly Wormes. THe situation of this famous city did as much delight Situation of me as of any city whatsoever I saw in Germany. For Worms. it is situate in a most pleasant plaine that doth very plenti fully yeeld great store of all manner of commodities serving as well for pleasure as profit. For I saw goodly store of corne, especiaUy wheate growing in the fertile and spacious fieldes about the city. Also they have great plenty of faire vineyards, yea such exuberancie of aU things I observed in the whole compasse about the city, that I [p- 527-J think there is nothing wanting unto them that the heart of man can desire. Besides it is much the more oppor tunely seated by reason of the noble river Rhene that runneth neere unto it, yet not so neere that it watereth the waUes thereof, as it doth Mentz, but is so farre distant from it as from the City of Spira, that is, about the space of one furlong. I heard a thing in this city that I did not a little wonder at, that the territory round about the same A populous is so exceedingly frequented with people, that there are country. no lesse then two hundred several townes & villages within the space of foure Dutch miles of the city, which doe make sixteene of our English. Withall he added this, that it hath bene often observed that some people of 255 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Founding of Worms. [p. 528.] Buildings of the city. Cathedral Church of S. Peter. each of these two hundred Townes and ViUages have repayred to the city to market, and returned backe againe the same night to their owne houses. A matter that seemed so strange unto me, that I have neither read nor heard of the like to be observed in so small a plotte of ground. This City is esteemed of great antiquity. For some authors doe write that it was a colonie of the Trevirians, and that it beganne to be built within a few yeares after the City of Trevirs situate by the MoseUa was founded by that Babylonian Prince Trebeta the sonne of King Ninus. The people that did first inhabite it were caUed Vangiones, which was the name not only of the inhabitants of the City, but also of aU such as dwelt round about in divers places of the country a prety way remote from the City. From these Vangiones the City tooke her denomi nation of Civitas Vangionum, which name it retaineth to this day. Also it was in former times caUed Berbero- magum as learned Peucer doth write. Which name he saith is mentioned by Ptolomaeus in his Geographie. From which word the present name Wormacia (for at this day it hath two Latin names, viz. Civitas Vangionum and Wormacia) taketh his denomination. For they make this etymologie of it, Wormacia quasi Bormacia. As for the moderne Dutch word Wormes it is derived by contraction of the letters from the Latin word Wormacia. The buildings of this City are very faire, both sacred and civill, and many of their streetes doe yeeld a beautifuU shew both for length, breadth, and the stately houses on both sides. Their walles are strong and ancient, and beautified with faire gate-houses. Their Churches Uke- wise, because the City standeth in a plaine, doe present a most delectable and gorgeous sight to those that approach towards the City from any quarter whatsoever, either west, north, or south ; especiaUy their Cathedral Church dedi cated to St. Peter, which being adorned with foure most eminent towers of a very magnificent structure, do exhibite to the eies of the beholder a forme like to a cradle. The 256 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS like whereof I have before reported of the foure towers of the Cathedrall Church of Spira. This Church of St. Peter I visited, but observed no such memorable monu ments therein as our Lady Church of Spira yeelded to me, and therefore I wiU passe it over with a word commending it for a building of notable magnificence, and (as I con jecture) of great antiquity, though I must confesse I know not the historie of the foundation of it. Because none of the learned men of the City, amongst whom I was very inquisitive for the matter, could certifie me thereof. But that which is wanting in the description of the Cathedrall Church, shall be a little supplied with the mention of the Bishops stately Palace adjoyning thereunto, although I The Bishop's cannot write halfe so much of the same as I would have Palace- done if I could have obtained accesse into the inner roomes, which I found to be a matter of great difficulty, because the Bishop whose name was Gulielmus (more then that they could not tell me) was resident in the country at his Palace of Ladenburgum when I was in Wormes. So that what I now write of the Palace is only of the frontispice [p- 529-J thereof, a matter of surpassing beauty ; and that which I will report of this front is a thing so notably memorable, that as I saw not the like before, and doe doubt whether I shall ever see the like againe hereafter in any place of Christendome in my future travels : so I hope it will be very pleasant to the learned reader to reade so rare a matter as I wiU now present unto him. Even the sacred Prophecies of those twelve famous Prophetesses called the The Sibylls' Sibyllas, who although they were Pagans borne, and lived prophecies. and died amongst the Gentils, yet Almighty God did infuse into them that evdeos furor, that divine spirit of prophecie, that they pronounced many excellent Oracles of the Saviour of the world Jesus Christ, whereof some are such as doe in some sort agree with the predictions of Gods owne Prophets of his holy city Hierusalem. These prophecies are written upon the front of the Bishops wall as I have already said) which hath beene lately so beauti- " lly repaired, that it is at this day the most sumptuous c. c. h 257 r fo: CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Thefirst prophecy. The second prophecy. [P- 53°-] The third prophecy. The fourth prophecy. Thefifth prophecy. The sixth prophecy. front of any Bishops Palace that ever I saw. Each of these prophecies hath the picture of the authour thereof made above it with her name annexed to the same, and a notation of the yeare is added to some of them but not to all, wherein they flourished before Christs incarnation. The first is Sibylla Delphica under whom this is written. Vixit ante adventum Christi 1525. And againe under the same picture this prophecie is written in faire Roman letters. 1. Nascetur Propheta absque coitu ex Virgine, eum cognosces proprium Dominum tuum, ipse verus erit Dei Alius. The second is SibyUa Samia. Vixit Anno ante adventum Christi 1365. Her prophecie is, 2. Ecce veniet dives & nascetur de paupercula, & bestias terras adorabunt eum, clamabunt, & dicent : Laudate eum in atriis coslorum. The third Sibylla Erythraea. Vixit ante adventum Christi Anno 1289. Her prophecie is, 3. In ultima aetate humiliabitur Proles divina, jacebit in fceno agnus, & pueUari offa. educabitur. The fourth SibyUa Phrygia. Vixit ante adventum Christi 12 1 5. Her prophecie is, 4. Ex Olympo Excelsus veniet, & firmabit conciUum in caslo, & annunciabitur Virgo in valibus desertorum. The fifth SibyUa Cumana. Vixit ante adventum Christi 550. Her prophecie is, 5. Magnus ab integro seclorum nascitur ordo, Jam redit & Virgo, redeunt Saturnia regna, Jam nova progenies ccelo demittitur alto. Tu modo nascenti puero, quod ferrea *Pu Desinet, ac toto surget gens aurea mundo. Casta fave Lucina, tuus jam regnat ApoUo. The sixth Sibylla Hellespontia. Vixit Anno ante adven tum Christi 544. Her prophecie is, 6. De excelso caelorum habitaculo prospexit humiles thus in the original, by which what they mean I * I found know not. 258 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS suos, & nascetur in diebus novissimis de Virgine Hebraea, cum cunabulis terras. The seventh Sibylla Tiburtina. Vixit ante adventum Christi 92. Her prophecie is, 7. Nascetur Christus in Bethleem, annunciabitur in The seventh Nazareth regnante Thauro pacifico fundatore quietis. O ProPhecy. fcelix iUa mater cujus ubera lactabunt ilium. The eighth Sibylla Cimerica. Vixit ante adventum Christi 332. Her prophecie is, 8. In prima, facie Virginis ascendet puella, facie pulchra, The eighth capillis prolixa, sedens super sedem stratam, puerum Profhecy. nutriens, dans ei ad comedendum & bibendum, jus pro prium lac de ccelo missum. The ninth SibyUa Agrippa. Vixit ante adventum Christi, &c. fHer prophecie is, 9. En invisibile verbum palpabitur, germinabit ut radix, The ninth siccabitur ut folium, non apparebit venustas ejus, circun- Pr°phecy. dabitur alvus materna & florebit Deus laetitia sempiterna, [p- 531-] & ab hominibus conculcabitur. The tenth Sibylla Libyca. Her prophecie is, 10. Ecce veniet dies, & illuminabit Dominus densa The tenth tenebrarum & solvetur nexus Synagogas, & recinent labia Pr°phecy. hominum, & videbunt regem viventium, & tenebit ilium in gremio virgo Domina gentium, & regnabit in miseri- cordia, & uterus matris ejus erit statera cunctorum. The eleventh Sibylla Europaea. Her prophecie is, 11. Venit iUe, & transibit colles & latices Olympi, reg- The eleventh nabit in paupertate, & dominabitur in silentio, & egredietur prophecy. de utero Virginis. The twelfth Sibylla Perfica. Her prophecie is, 12. Ecce bestia conculcaberis, & gignetur Dominus in The twelfth orbem terrarum, & gremium Virginis erit salus gentium, Pr°phecy. & pedes ejus in valetudine hominum, invisibile verbum palpabitur. Above these pictures are written many elegant distiches in divers severall places, two verses in a place, which seeme t The notation of her time is omitted, and so of all the rest following. 259 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES to have beene newly written. I had a great desire to write them out. But the time would not give me leave. For that day that I wrote these Sibylline prophecies, I spent but sixe hours in Wormes, by reason that a certain urgent occasion called me away from the City even about noone, which deprived me of the opportunity to write those verses. Otherwise I had set them downe in this place. Bishopric of \ wiU now give a little glance at the Bishopricke of Worms. Wormes, seeing this discourse of the Bishops Palace doth give me occasion to make some relation thereof. For many yeares since this was an Archbishopricke, but by whom it was first founded it is a matter altogether uncer- taine. For some write (as Munster saith) that it was instituted by Clodoveus the first Christian king of France, about the yeare of our Lord 500. others againe doe report [p- 532-] that it began many yeares before. Which the said Mun ster proveth to be true. For he affirmeth that one Victor Archbishop of Wormes was at the generaU CounseU holden at Colen in the yeare 348. with many other Bishops that were assembled thither from aU the famous Christian countries of Europe for the deposing of Euphrates Arch bishop of Colen, because he was with such pertinacy addicted to the Arrian heresie, that he would not be recon ciled to the unity of the Church. The Archbishop of this Citie was in ancient times a man of so great power and Richestprelate eminent authority, that he was absolutely the richest of Germany. preiate 0f gjj Germany. For he was Lord over all those large territories which the Count Palatine of Rhene, the Landgrave of Hassia, and the Archbishop of Mentz doe possesse. Also he had no lesse then sixteene Bishops under him that were subject to his jurisdiction as his Suffragans. The first Archbishop was the foresaid Victor, from whose time the Archbishoprick flourished tiU the time of Pipin King of France, who deposed one Guerilio from his Archiepiscopall dignity by reason of a certaine lewd fact that he had committed, and translated the Arch bishopricke from Wormes to Mentz, which hath ever since retained it to this day. Also the said Archbishop- 260 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS ricke of Wormes was from thenceforth converted to a Bishopricke, one Wernharius that immediately succeeded the foresaid Guerilio, being chosen the first Bishop thereof in the time of Carolus Magnus. From which time the Citie of Wormes hath bene ever graced with a Bishop by a continuall and orderly succession of them till this present Bishop Gulielmus, whom I have before mentioned. Thus much of the Archbishopricke and Bishop of Wormes. THe Praetorium or Senate house of the Citie that The Senate adjoineth to the market place is a very sumptuous House. building, the front whereof is beautified with many faire pictures. But the fairest of all is of Fridericke the third of that name Emperour, who is very gloriously painted [p- 533-J in gold, sitting in his throne with his Imperiall crowne upon his head, and his Scepter in his hand, and under him this is written. Fridericus 3. Imper. Aug. 1593- Under that this. Renovata est hasc basilica 1592. Againe under that I read this distich written in golden letters. Astra Deo nil majus habent, nil Caesare terra, Si terram Cassar, si regit astra Deus. Also under that I read this inscription in a long line, above the which two souldiers were painted in their armour, leaning downe a little. And at one end of the front another souldier in his complete armour, displaying an ancient, and at the other end is painted a Queene with a crowne upon her head. This inscription (I say) did I reade there in that long line. Libertatem quam majores peperere digne studeat fovere posteritas. Turpe enim esset parta non posse tueri. 261 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES German Emperors. [P- 5 34-] Arms of Worms. AncientRomans. asdificata. written in vindicibus Quamobrem Vangiones quondam cum Julio conflictati jam tibi Caesar perpetua, fide cohasrent. Statues of four Next unto this in another part of the same front are erected the statues of foure German Emperors that were bene factors to the citie, very sumptuously gilted for the better ornament of the praetorium, with their imperiall Diadems upon their heads, each carrying a sword in one hand, and a globe in another. They are represented onely to the girdle : The first Carolus Quintus, the second Ferdicandus Primus Caesar, the third Maximilianus Secundus, the fourth Rodolphus Secundus. And under them is written in golden letters Anno 1581. Georgio Euchario Mosbach & Joanne Kigele Reipub. iEdilibus, basilica haec est Againe under that I read this inscription golden letters. Austriacae familias heroibus libertatis patriae ultra C C L annos amissas vetustae Vangionum Wormaciae S P Q. beneficiorum memor locavit. Anno 1 5 8 1 . Also in the same ranke of that part of the front this impresse foUowing is written in the like golden letters upon a ground of Azure, neere to the portraiture of a greene Dragon supporting a coate of armes, wherein is figured a key ; which dragon with the rest is the armes of this Citie of Wormes. Draco clavem tenens industria vastas solitudines excoli, fide & constantia. ad decus perveniri demonstrat. Haec majores Vangionum urbis suae arma esse voluerunt. Also another part of this Praetorium is beautified with sundry notable historicall descriptions of the ancient Romanes. Under one whereof I read this foUowing. Sexti Tarquinii regii filii libidine factum est, ut Romas exactis regibus consulare imperium jurejurando consti- tueretur, isque honos primo Lucio Junio Bruto sceleris vindici decerneretur. Next this. Patrii amoris vim ex animo potius ejicere, liberosque securi ferire quam libertatem civium perfidia. imminui nobili exemplo. L I Br. docuit : 262 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS Then againe this. Horatium Coclitem contra omnes hostium copias tenuit in ponte solum sine ulla, spe salutis suae patriae salus. Also this. Pro imperii gloria atque dignitate magnum animum suscipiendum Mutius ad necem Porsennas impulsus, docet. Last of all this. Ut Clcelia Virgo, ita omnes suo casu aut confirmare patriae salutem, aut periculum morari debent. Under the Senate house there is a faire walke supported with stately pillars that doe make a pretie arch at the top. Also the roofe of the walke is finely painted, wherein are made the pictures of all the Emperours. A sight very beautifull. ^ tThe government of this Citie hath bene divers accord- Governmentof ing to the change of times, and it hath acknowledged many the at^' Lords. It was first subject to the Trevirians, as being a colonie of the Citie of Trevirs, to whom they payed a [p. 535.] yearely tribute. Next, to the Romanes, where one of their Prefects resided with a garrison of souldiers for the defence of the citie against the Germans on the other side of the Rhene. Their first Prefect was appointed by Julius Caesar, who in the like manner assigned more Prefects with garri sons for other cities & townes, as I shall hereafter declare in the description of them, the authoritie of each being so limited, that he was subject to a superiour Governor who was the Prefect of Mentz, or rather the Duke of Mentz commonly called Dux Moguntinus, as I have before written in my observations of Strasbourg. Thus for the space of 500 years this Citie sustained the yoke of a servile subjection under the Romane Emperours, even tiU the time of that flageUum Dei Attila King of the Worms sacked Hunnes, who breaking with a great armie out of the y country of the Sicambrians which are now those of Gelderland, destroyed this Citie together with aU the other famous cities that were situate on that banke of the Rhene, which was in those daies esteemed a great part of the French Kingdome. From the time of that miserable ruine and depopulation, the Citie was ever alien ated from the Romanes. Againe within fewe years after 263 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES that desolation, the inhabitants of the territory thereabout reedified the City, adorning it with waUes, Churches, and goodly buildings. And within few yeares after these reparations it came into the hands of the French kings, who governed it a long time ; and were so delighted with the sweetnesse of the situation, and the opportunity of the place, that some of them kept their Court there, as I will hereafter mention. But at length by the fatal revolu tion of time it descended to the sway of the Germane Emperours, whereof some have graced it partly with the residence of their Court in this Citie, partly by the solemnization of great marriages, and partly by the cele bration of generaU councels and other famous meetings, [p 5 3 6.] as I will by and by more particularly declare. So that at this day it flourisheth in a most opulent estate, and enjoyeth great peace under their sacred clientele and protection.^. So delicate a place is this City of Wormes (for indeed I attribute much to it by reason of the admirable amenitie French Kings of the situation thereof) that some of the French Kings rf£ded at did eftsoones keepe their royall residence here when it was subject to their dominion, as I have before written. For we reade that Pipin King of France kept his Court here in the yeare. 764. when he condemned Tassilo King of Bavaria of treason. Also in the yeare 769. the said King Pipins sonne Charles (who was afterward that most renowned and victorious Emperour of Germanie surnamed the Great, from the greatnesse of his valiant exploites) was in this city crowned King of France. Againe in the yeare 770. Prince Adolphus that was the Generall Captaine of King Charles forces, marched from this city with his armie towards the Saxons, and in the yeare 779. brought with him some of the Princes of Saxonie to this City as hostages to King Charles. In the yeare 783. Charles being now inaugurated into the Empire, solemnized a royall marriage in Wormes with the Lady Fastrada, who was his fourth wife, and the daughter of the Earle of Franconia. In the yeare 790. the same Charles the Great kept his imperiall 264 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS Court for the space of a whole yeare in this City, but by reason that his Palace was casually burnt and utterly con sumed with fire, he removed his Court therehence to his Palace of Ingelheim where he was borne, not farre from the City of Mentz. Moreover there have bene five famous Councels kept in this City. Whereof the first The Councils was celebrated by Ludovicus Pius the Emperour and sonne °* orms' of the foresaid Charles the Great in the yeare 829. The second by Ludovicus the second who was the sonne of the foresaid Emperor in the yeare 868. in the moneth of May, having assembled together a great multitude of Princes and Bishops against the errors of the Grecians. The third [p. 537.] by Henry the third and Pope Leo the ninth about the time of Christs nativity (which we commonly call Christ- masse) in the yeare 1051. The fourth by that worthy Emperour of sacred memorie Henry the fourth in the yeare 1076. which Councell is much the more famoused for that by the consent of all the German Bishops which he then assembled together, saving those of Saxonie, he deposed Pope Hildebrand otherwise called Gregorie the seventh. The same Emperour at divers other times much frequented this City, because in the middest of all his bitter persecutions and conflicts which he suffered by meanes of the Romish Clergie, he found Wormes a most secure refuge and shelter for him ; the Citizens being so lovingly inclined to succour him in his afflictions that they never forsooke him, but exposed both their bodies and goods for his safety to the very utmost of their power, which thing hath purchased them no small praise. The fifth and Fifth and last last CounceU by the Emperour Henry the fifth in the Council. yeare 1122. the Bishop of Ostia being sent thither with two Cardinals in the behalfe of the Pope, at what time that great controversie was composed betwixt the secular Princes and the Ecclesiasticall Prelates about the bestow ing of Bishopricks and spirituall preferments. As for great marriages celebrated in this City, I have read of one very famous marriage kept here besides that before men- Famous tioned of Charles the Great, which I am the more willing marriages. 265 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES to mention because the woman here married was borne in my owne country of England. For here in the yeare 1235. or thereabout, the Emperour Fredericke the second, solemnized a most pompous marriage with the Lady Isabella the daughter of King John of England. This Lady was his third wife. Amongst many other things that historians have written of this City one memorable matter is of one of our English Kings, even King Richard, [p. 538.] for whose memorie sake I will make some mention of him ; after that William King of the Romans was slaine by the Frisians there was a great jarre betwixt the Elector Princes about the election of a new Emperour. For some of them stoode for Alphonsus King of CasteUa, others King Richard for Richard King of England. In this Dissension the of England. chiefest Princes which were of the predominant faction, namely the two Archbishops of Mentz and Colen, and Ludovicus Count Palatine of Rhene, chose the foresaid King Richard. Whereupon shortly after this election he travelled into Germany, and after many sohcitations and great promises of favour he was honourably entertained in this City of Wormes in the yeare 1258. in the moneth of Julie. But before he was admitted within the gates of the City, the Wormacians drew him to this composition, that he should presently disburse ten thousand markes of silver for the necessity of the City : which being per formed according to their demand, they afterward did homage unto him. After which time King Richard returned into England, and about two yeares after, even in the yeare 1260. came backe againe to Wormes, where he was a prety while resident in the City, during the time of whose residence there he compounded certaine contro versies both betwixt the city of Wormes & the towne of Oppenheim, and also betwixt Wormes it selfe and some Noblemen of the same City. Moreover the same King Diet of celebrated a famous Diet in this City of Wormes about • nine yeares after that, even in the yeare 1269. and con cluded a publique peace in the whole City, abolishing aU manner of tolles and taxes both by land and water. AU 266 OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS these memorable histories tending to the illustration of this renowned city of Wormes, I have thought good to insert into these my observations, as I have found them in Munsters Cosmographie, unto whom they were sent from the Senate of the same City (as he himselfe affirmeth) by way of an epitome of the Wormacian Annals, for the better garnishing of his Cosmographicall volume. [p. 539.] What famous persons of great marke have bene buried in this city I know not, because I surveyed not the monu- mentes, but surely I heard of no more then one great man, who was a Prince of great renowne in his daies. Namely one Conradus Duke of Franconia, surnamed the Wise, Conrad the who was the sonne in lawe of the Emperour Otho Magnus, w*se- whose daughter Ludgarda he married. This Conradus was slaine with an arrow in that famous battel that the foresaid Emperor fought with the Hungarians upon the fourth day of August anno 955. neere to the city of Augusta, from which place his body was afterward brought hither to Wormes, and here interred. But it was not my hap to see the monument it selfe. One principall thing that I observed in my observations of Basil, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg, namely the writing of a short index of such famous professours of learning as have lived or died therein, I have omitted in these two last An omission. cities of Spira and Wormes. Because I have neither read nor heard of any excellent men that they ever bred. Onely Wormes was once adorned with one singular scholer whome I will not let passe without mention, and yet but briefly name him, because I have already spoken of him in my observations of Heidelberg. This was Joannes Dalburgius a very rare man in the age wherein he lived, & a great Meccenas and fosterer of learned men : who after he had enjoyed the Episcopall dignity foure yeares, died in the yeare 1503. in his Palace of Ladenburgum. More then him I cannot name in this city of Wormes. It remayneth now that I speake a little of the religion The religion of of this city, according to that course that I have hitherto Worm'- observed in every German city saving Basil. Therfore I 267 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES will briefly touch this, and so make an end of this history [p. 540.] of Wormes. The religion is mixed as that of Spira. For it is partly Protestant of the Lutheran religion, and partly Papisticall. Unto the Papistes belongeth the Cathedrall Church as that of Spira, because the Bishop of this City is a Papist. But the Protestant faction is both the greater in number, and the stronger in power. For almost all the better families of the City are Protestant. Thus much of Wormes. I Departed from Wormes about halfe an hower after twelve of the clocke the eleventh of September being Oppenheim. Sunday, and came to Oppenheim a pretty faire towne in the lower County Palatine, which is about twelve miles beyond Wormes, about sixe of the clocke in the evening. I observed a very fruitfuU soyle in aU that space of ground betwixt Wormes and Oppenheim bearing notable com modities, as corne, vineyardes, &c. This Towne belongeth to the Pfaltzgrave of Rhene, and professeth the same religion that he doth. Here died Rupertus King of the Romanes who was afterward buried at Heidelberg, as I have before mentioned in my notes of that City. The inhabitants of this towne do attribute very much to the situation of it. For they affirme that it is situate in the Oppenheim same manner as holy Jerusalem was : Because it standeth compared with upon the side of a hill. For so we may reade that a part Jerusalem. 0f Jerusalem stood, even the same part which is called Sion, which (as Historians do write) was built upon the very side of a hill, the toppe whereof was adorned with King Davids Palace. Also the inhabitants of the City of Bergomo in Italy (whereof I have before written) may as well compare the situation of their City with that of Jerusalem, as these men of Oppenheim. For that standeth as pleasantly upon the side of a hiU as this doth. Truly the sight of them both is so pleasant that the Citizens may justly boast of it. They have one pretty Church in [p. 541.] Oppenheim caUed Saint Catharines which is seene afarre off. 268 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE I departed from Oppenheim the twelfth day of Sep tember being munday about sixe of the clocke in the morning, and came to the city of Mentz about tenne of the clocke in the morning, which was tenne miles beyond it. It was my hap in this journey betwixt Oppenheim and Mentz to have such a notable companion as I never had before in aU my life. For he was both learned and A learned unlearned. Learned because being but a wood-cleaver wood-deaver- (for he told me that he was the Jesuits wood-cleaver of Mentz) he was able to speake Latine. A matter as rare in one of that sordid facultie as to see a white Crowe or a blacke Swanne. Againe he was unlearned, because the Latin which he did speake was such incongruall and dis- joynted stuffe, such antipriscianisticall eloquence, that I thinke were grave Cato alive (who for his constant severity was called dyeXao-ros, because he never or very seldome laughed) he should have more cause to laugh if he should heare this fellow deliver his minde in Latin, then when he saw an Asse eate thistles. My Observations of Moguntia otherwise called Moguntiacum, but commonly Mentz. THe situation of this City is pleasant, yet not com- Situation of parable to that of Strasbourg, Spira, and Wormes. a3enee- For each of these standeth in a pleasant plaine. But this is inclosed on the south and east sides with a hiU, which me thinkes doth something eclipse the beauty of the city. Yet these hiUes are very commodious to Mentz. For they are most plentifully planted with faire vineyardes. All the north side is washed with the river Rhene which runneth hard by the walles thereof. I observed that this city is built in a longer forme then any other German [p- 542-] citie that I saw, saving Heidelberg, the breadth of it being not very great. Yet this length doth yeeld a passing faire shew to those that approach towards the city from any quarter either by land or water, saving onely from the south. Because the hilles on that side doe interclude the sight of the city. The streetes are many, and some very 269 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The ancient city. Derivation of the name. [P- 543-] TheCathedralChurch. faire, being adorned with many goodly buildings of great antiquity, whereof divers I observed foure stories high; also their walles are very strong and ancient, & beautified with five gates. But the olde Mentz that flourished in the time of Julius Caesar, stood not so neere the Rhene as this doth ; but higher upon the hill, as it doth manifestly appeare by those ancient rudera that I perceived in divers places of the same hill. Which being afterward destroyed by Attila King of the Hunnes, the founders of this second city thinking this to be a more opportune place for the building of their City then that upon the hiU, have now built it hard by the Rhene, as I have aheady said. I finde some difference amongst the historians about the first founder of this City. For some write that it was built by Prince Trebeta the founder of Trevirs and Strasbourg. Others ascribe the first foundation to one Moguntius a Trojan, from whom they say it hath the denomination of Moguntia. And others againe do affirme that the name Moguntia is derived from Moganus a river running neere to it, which is otherwise called Mcenus that runneth by the city of Franckford. For at this City the Mcenus and the Rhene do meete and make a confluent, as at Lyons the Arar and the Rhodanus, at the Citie of Confluence (whereof I shall heereafter speake) the MoseUa and the Rhene. How this appeUation of Moguntia degenerated in processe of time to this moderne name of Mentz I do not know. But the like abbreviation I perceive hath hapned to other German Cities. For the old name of Aquisgranum that noble City of Province is now come to Aach, Turegum (of whom I have before written) the Metropolitan of Switzerland to Zurich, Rubeachum a famous City of Alsatia to Rusach, Wormacia to Wormes, and so Moguntia to Mentz. The churches of the city are tenne, whereof the CathedraU is a building very sumptuous, and adorned with a tower of a very eminent heigth, but inferiour to other German churches that I saw before, especiaUy those two of Basil and Strasbourg. This church is dedicated to Saint 270 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE Martin, and was first founded about the yeare ion. by one WiUigisus the foure and thirtieth Bishop of Mentz that was privie Counseller to the Emperour Otho the second, and the first elector of the Empire of all the Moguntine Archbishops. Of whom it is written that he The origin of had the picture of a wheele painted in his refectory with f\e„ Arm °f ,-••.¦ J Mayence. this inscription J WilUgise memineris quid sis, et quid olim fueris. Since which time the wheele hath ever beene the armes of the Archbishoprick of Mentz, and confirmed by the Emperour Henry the second surnamed the Holy. This foresaid Cathedrall church was onely begun by that Bishop WiUigisus, but not finished by him. For the third Bishop that succeeded him, one Bardo Abbot of Fulda was the man that brought that noble worke to perfection. I observed a thing both in this church, & in most of the other German churches, as also in many of the civill buildings of their cities, that I could never perceive in any of mine owne country of England, or France, Savoy, or Italy : that in the outside of the roofe of their buildings, even in the middest of the tiling they have a great company of open places like windowes contrived in both sides of °Pe" the roofe, to what use it served I could not devise. For m" ows' if it be made for light sake, it seemeth in my opinion something needlesse, because the other windowes of the same edifice do minister sufficient light. Therefore I thinke it served for some other use, which unto me is altogether unknowne. Many goodly monuments this IP- 544-1 church contayneth both ancient and moderne, but especially of their Bishops. Whereof one I observed to be more beautifull then the rest, which is erected on the north side of the body of the Church, and inserted into one of the maine pillers. This is of their last Archbishop. His An , statue is erected at length in his episcopaU ornaments, OT^8JL! most curiously carved in alabaster with a miter on his head exceeding richly beset with pearles and precious stones fairely represented in the same. Also it is garnished 271 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES with many pillars of costly marble, and sundry golden scutchins. At the top of all two Angels are pourtrayed sitting, and holding a peece of parchment in their right hands, wherein this is written, Memento homo qu6d cinis es. And in their left handes lilies. Above them is represented an other Angel sounding of a Trumpet. Beneath, about the base of the monument, this Epitaph is written upon a faire peece of touchstone. D. O. M. Rm0 et IUmo Dfio Dno Wolphango de nobili et vetusta. Camerariorum de Wormacia dictorum a Dalburg familia : Archiepiscopo et Principi Electori Moguntino prudentia, eloquentia, et justitia singulari, de tota Ecclesia. et repub. bene merito, anno Dni 1592. magno omnium desiderio et consensu electo, in regimine annis 19. moderato et paci- fico; anno denique 1601. die Aprili 50. pie placideque defuncto, et hic publico omnium luctu recondito Joannes ? Suicardus Successor Praedecessori meritissimo F. C. Anno. : 1606. Also on the South side of the Church, a little within the : entrance, I saw another more sumptuous monument then : this before mentioned, of a certayne Bishop of Wormes, ~ who was also Warden and Deane of this Cathedrall Church ' A cenotaph. Qf Mentz I take this monument to be nothing else then :: a cenotaphium, that is, a Sepulchre void of a body, being ¦ [p. 545.] erected only for honour sake, according to the custome of • the ancient Romans. For it appeareth by the epitaph ' subscribed that the body was buryed at Wormes. It is" raised to an exceeding heigth, even thirty foote high by: my estimation, garnished with goodly piUars of great ^ value, partly of changeable-coloured marble and partly of : touch-stone ; and adorned with great store of Scutchins ' and Armes, curious golden borders, and workes. About t the middle is made the effigies of him at length in his r Episcopall ornaments with his Crosier, and his hands that;. are covered with his episcopaU red gloves, are elevated to^i 272 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE the image of Christ erected opposite unto it upon a faire Crosse of touch-stone. Under the same this epitaph is The Bishop's written in golden letters upon a faire ground of touch- ePltaPh- stone. Georgius Dei gratia Episcopus Wormacien. ex nobili familia, a Sconenburg ortus, hujus Metropolitanas Ecclesiae Praspositus, ac prius Annis xviii. Decanus, tandem vero Cas- saris Rodolphi II. vices in Conventu De- putatorum Imperii gerens obiit Spirae, sepultus autem Wormaciae in Ecclesia Cathedrali. In pace quiescit Princeps de Repub. Christiana ac presertim Ecclesia cui prudentia singulari, studio & labore indefesso, laudeque eximia praefuit atque pro- fu.it, optime meritus. Anno M. D. lxxxxv. die xi. Mensis Augusti. Opposite unto this rich monument there is a marvailous curious Altar adorned with great variety of marble, and exquisite images gilted and carved in Alabaster. Amongst the rest I noted one thing very attentively, even a great Whale swaUowing up the Prophet Jonas. A device pass- J°nah and the ing finely contrived. Many other goodly monuments I wha'e- saw there of their Prelats and others decked with Epitaphs, which the shortnesse of time would not give me leave to write out. Besides I observed two faire Pulpits in the [p- 546-] body of the church. Whereof one was very sumptuous, the toppe being wonderfull curiously decked with many excellent works richly gilted, yet al made in wainscot : besides I noted certaine pretty little images of alabaster very artificially expressed in the same toppe. As of the three principal christian vertues. Faith, Hope, and Charity, Also the foure Cardinall morall vertues, Justice, Fortitude, Prudence, and Temperance. There are written these two sentences out of Saint Paul. Stella a steUa, differt in claritate : sic resurrectio mor- tuorum. i. Cor. 15. ca. also above that this is written in c. c. 11 273 s CORYAT'S CRUDITIES golden letters. Praedica verbum, insta opportune, impor tune, argue, obsecra, increpa, in omni patientia et doctrina. 2. Tim. 4. Conversion of This City was converted to Christianity in the time of Mayence. Saint Paul the Apostle as soone as any city of all Germany. For eyther Crescens which was one of Saint Pauls scholars whome he mentioneth in the second Ep. to Tim. 4. cap. 10. ver. or Crescentius who was also his Scholer, was the first Apostle of this city, and (as they say) the first Bishop. After whom there was a succession of many holy and godly AnEnglisman Bishops. But their first Archbishop was mine owne j!hh- , f countryman (as I have both often read, & also heard from Mayence ^at learned Jesuite Nicolas Serrarius of Mentz) whome I will therefore honoris causa, mention. Even Bonifacius an Englishman, one of the rarest and worthiest men that ever possessed the Sea of Mentz, and therefore much celebrated amongst the learned Germanes for his divine learning and holy conversation of life. His name was first Winifride, and was a Benedictine Monke (as Serrarius told me) before he came to Mentz. He was the seven teenth Bishop of this City, and came over in the time of Pipin King of France, about the yeare 776. At what time the Archbishoprick of Wormes being extinct in the time of their Archbishop Gervilio, was translated hither, as I have before reported in my observations of that City. This [p- 547-] Boniface was in a manner the second Apostle of Germany, and much reformed divers Churches in many parts of that Country, as in Thuringia and elsewhere (as I have reade in the workes of learned Melanthon) greatly taxing the Priestes for adultery, and inflicting the punishments of a whole yeares imprisonment upon the offendours. He was Archbishop of this City five and thirty yeares, and the founder of that most famous Abbey of Fulda in Buchonia, which remaineth yet to this day, and is esteemed one of the most magnificent Monasteries of aU Christendome; in the which at last he himselfe was buried, after he had suffered martyrdome in his old age amongst the Frisians for the free preaching of the GospeU. So that his monu- 274 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE ment is shewed in that Abbey to this day. Besides many other worthy Archbishops that flourished in this City after my countryman Bonifacius, Rabanus Maurus that was once Abbot of the foresaid Abbey of Fulda, is much celebrated by authors, being the fifth Archbishop after Bonifacius, whome I therefore name because he was the disciple of an other most famous and learned countryman of mine owne, Venerabilis Beda. I have before mentioned who was the first elector Archbishop of this city, namely WiUigisus. Ever since which time the Archbishop of this The city hath beene a soveraigne Prince of most eminent ""bishop of authority. For besides his great Signiory and large terri- sot,ereig„ tory that he hath to maintaine his principalitie, he is the Prince. cheef Elector Prince of the sacred Roman Empire next to the King of Bohemia above al the rest. Also he is intituled Chancellor of Germany for the more addition of dignity. Moreover his spirituaU jurisdiction extended it selfe so farre that he hath these 12 Bishopricks subject to his sea, namely that of Curia in Rhetia, Constance in Suevia, Stras bourg in Alsatia, Spira, Wormes, Wirceburgum Franconia, Augusta in Vindelicia, Aistet in Bavaria, Padeborna in Westphalia; in Saxony these 3. Hildiheim, Halberstat, & Verda. The name of him that was the present Archbishop [p. 548-] of Mentz when I was there was Joannes Suicardus, who then kept his residence at a palace he had in the countrie. I observed his Palace in the Citie to be a building of great magnificence standing about the farther end of the west part of Mentz, and built hard by the Rhene, which to those that come to the Citie eyther by water, or by the North side of the land doth present a very faire shew, and much beautifie that part of the Citie. Also there is another goodly building adjoyning next to it, which is the Chancery house of the Citie. The antiquities of this Citie both sacred and civill are Antiquities of more then in any City whatsoever in all Germany. In so Mayence- much that the foresaid Jesuite Serrarius hath lately written a very elegant booke of the Moguntine antiquities which he shewed me ; having dedicated it to the present Arch- 275 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES bishop Joannes Suicardus. But it was my chance to see but one of them, which of all the civill is esteemed the most remarkable in the whole Citie. And indeed a thing very worthy the observation both for the worthinesse of the founder, the nobility of the worke, and the mention of it in ancient authors. In that I came to the sight of it I do thankfully acknowledge my selfe beholding to the foresaid Jesuite, who very kindly procured me the meanes to see A stone jt This is nothing else then a stonie Colossus erected in a vineyard upon the top of a certaine hiU on the South side of the Citie, (where in former times a part of the ancient Citie stood) neere to a Monastery dedicated to St. James, in which there is a convent of St. Bennets Monks at this day. The vineyard is invironed round about with a wall of a convenient height, to the end to preserve the monument that none may come to it without leave. And there is but one way to it by a dore that is alwaies locked. The author of this was Drusus Nero the sonne in law of Augustus Caesar by his fourth and last wife [p- 549-1 Livia DrusiUa, and the brother of the Emperour Tiberius. This monument did he erect just about the time of Christs incarnation, when he waged warre with the Germanes in this place (as both Cornelius Tacitus and Suetonius do make mention) leaving it unto posterity as a memorial of his name, that he had once skirmished there with the Germanes, and conquered them in battell. The thing it selfe is a very huge and massie moles of stones rammed together, and made something in the forme of an akorne. For which cause it is caUed in the Germane tongue Cichel- stein which signifieth an akorne. Howbeit the lower part of it differeth something from the fashion of an akorne. But the higher part resembled it as neere as can be. For all the lower part from that part of the foundation which appeareth above the ground to almost the middle, is made square, whereas the lower part of an akorne is round ; and from corner to corner I take it to be almost fortie foote. All the higher part ascendeth lesser and lesser towards the top, yet after such a round manner, that it doth very 276 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE artificiaUy resemble an akorne. One very strange thing I A strange observed in this masse, that whereas I and another Gentle- smnd- man that went with me to see it, stroke the stones of the worke at the farther corners, he at one corner, and I at another, with little stones that we tooke up for the same purpose; the noise of the stroake would easily be heard from one corner to another which were about fiftie foote asunder, though we strooke the stones of the moles as soft as could be possible. A matter much to be wondered at except either the foundation be hollow, or some part of the same square masse. A Gentleman of good quality told me that when Albertus Marquesse of Brandenburg did of late yeares oppugne this Citie with great hostilitie, he did set a worke certaine masons to pull it downe, as being A hard task. a prophane Pagan monument. But they found such extreme difficulty in pulling the stones asunder, though they laboured most painfuUy with their mattocks and other [p- 55°-] instruments, that after they had done a little they ceased from their worke. For they found it almost as difficult to pull it downe as to build it up, by reason that the stones are with such admirable hardnesse compacted together. Yet that which they did to the upper part of it, hath much disfigured and blemished the grace of the monument. Besides many other things that have greatly graced this city, and made it famous over all Christendome, as the Archiepiscopal dignity, the antiquity of the foundation, the noble monuments, the sumptuousnesse of their build ings publike and private, the frequency of people inhabiting the same, and the opportunity of the situation, that most incomparably excellent art of printing which was first Art of invented in this city, is not to bee esteemed the least, nay P,nnm&fifst * ^ invented in rather it deserveth to bee ranked in an equal dignity with Mayence. the worthiest matter of the whole city, if not to bee preferred before it. For in this City of Mentz was the divine art (to give it an epitheton more then ordinary by reason of the excellency of the invention) of printing first devised by a Gentleman or rather a Knight of this city one Joannes Cuttenbergius in the yeare of our Lord one 277 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES thousand foure hundred and forty, even in that very yeare that Fredericke the third was inaugurated into the Empire ; and in the time of their Archbishop Theodoricus who was the sixty seventh after Crescens the first Apostle of the City. Well might that ancient Poet write those verses in praise of this noble art that Kirchnerus hath cited in his oration of Germany ; which I have inserted into my observations ; O Germania muneris repertrix, Quo non utilius dedit vetustas, Libros scribere, quae doces, premendo. For surely if we rightly consider it, we shaU finde it to be one of the most rare and admirable inventions that ever was since the first foundation of the world was laid. For [p. 551.] what I pray can be devised in rerum natura more strange then that one man should be able by his Characters com posed of tinne, brasse, & * stibium to write more lines in one day then the swiftest Scrivener in the world can do in a whole yeare ? according to that old verse Imprimit una dies quantum vix scribitur anno. A matter that may seeme incredible to the understanding of many men, yet most certainely verified by experience. Virtues of By vertue of this arte are communicated to the publike printing. v;ewe 0f the "Worlde the monuments of all learned authors that are set abroach out of the sacred treasurie of antiquity, and being now freed from that Cimmerian darknesse wherein they lurked for the space of many hundred yeares, and where they did cum tineis ac blattis rixari, to the great prejudice of the common weale of learning, but especiaUy of Gods Church, are divulged to the common light, and that to the infinite utility of aU lovers of the Muses and professours of learning. By this arte all the liberaU sciences are now brought to full ripenesse and perfection. Had not this art bene invented by the divine providence of *This is a kind of white stone found in silver mines which they use in printing. 278 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE God, it was to be feared lest the true studies of aU dis ciplines both divine & humane would have suffered a kind of shipwrack, and have bene halfe extinct before this age wherein we breathe. I would to God we would thankefully use this great benefite of our gracious God (as a learned author saith) not to the obscuration but the illustration of Gods glory, not to dis-joine but rather to conjoine the members of Christes militant Church here on earth. Within a short space after this singular invention of University of printing ensued the institution of a University in this Mayence- city, in the time of the Archbishop Theodoricus, under whom printing began. I think this University was never great. Surely what it was in former times I know not, but at the time of my being there it consisted principally of one Colledge, which was that of the Jesuites, a building [p- 552-] that was lately founded within these few yeares, and endowed with convenient maintenance by the munificence of the Archbishops, whereof Joannes Suicardus who was Bishop when I was there, (as I have before said) hath bin a notable benefactor to it. This Colledge is a convenient faire house, but much inferiour to the majestie of divers Colledges in our famous Universities of Oxford and Cam bridge, to whome I attribute so much for the statelinesse of their building, that I preferre some of them by many degrees before any Colledges that I saw in my travells. It was my hap to visite this Colledge, where Nicolaus Serrarius the Antesignanus of all the Jesuiticall familie used me more kindely and familiarly then I thinke he doth every Protestant that commeth to him. For besides other courtesies he shewed me their Library, which is a The Library. passing faire place, and furnished with great variety of excellent bookes, especially Theologicall. I will give this Serrarius his due ; for Virtus etiam in hoste micat : cer tainly he is a man of that excellent learning, that hee deserveth great praise. Also he is reported to be so rare a linguist, that I heard he speaketh at least sixe languages. 1 would to God hee would cease to write so virulently 279 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES fought near Mayence. [P- 553-] against our Protestants, especially poore Martin Luther, whom he hath most bitterly exagitated in that invective booke intituled de Lutheri magistro, by magistro meaning theDevill. Besides these two things last mentioned, the art of printing and their Universitie, this City is much celebrated by historiographers for three other matters. First the fighting of many famous battels neare to this City. Secondly for certaine notable bridges built here over the Rhene. Thirdly for the death of great personages in the Great battles same City. The principall battels fought there were waged by the Romans : as by Drusus Nero whom I have before mentioned, who skirmished in this place with the Germans. But this was not the place where he brake his legge by falling from his horse, as some doe write. For that mischance he had at the towne of Bing (as I wiU hereafter mention) which is situate about some ten miles beneath Mentz upon the left banke of the Rhene. Also Aurelianus the sixe & thirtieth Roman Emperor fought a great battell here with the Franci,* when he was but a yong man, before he was chosen into the Empire, and in that skirmish got a glorious victorie by slaying at the least thirty thousand of them. Likewise the Emperour Otho surnamed the Great, brought a great armie hither against his rebellious sonne Ludolphus (whom I shaU hereafter mention againe) intending to have incountred him in battell, but it hapned otherwise. For Ludolphus not daring to skirmish with his father, contained himself within the walles of the City, where after he had beene besieged for the space of nine weekes, there was a truce concluded betwixt his father and himselfe. The bridges that were built here were two, very famous for their founders. For the first was built by Julian the Apostat the three and fortieth Emperour of Rome, and is mentioned by Ammi- anus MarceUinus the historiographer, which he caused to be made after he had conquered the Alemannes about Strasbourg, as I have before mentioned. After that battell * These were Germans, and the inhabitants of Franconia. 280 Famous bridges. OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE he came thus farre down with his armie from Alsatia, and made this bridge for the better conveighing of his Souldiers over the Rhene, to the end to skirmish with the Germans on the other side of the water : the other bridge was built by the Emperour Charlemaine in the year 813. he bestowed marvailous cost on this bridge, though it were made but of timber. For the workemen were ten whole yeares building of it ; who compacted it together with such admirable strength, that it was thought it would have lasted for ever. But in the yeare of our Lord 823. even in the moneth of May, it hapned by a very dismall chance to be utterly consumed with fire, the raging furie whereof [p. 554.] wasted that in the space of three houres, which ten yeares labour with infinite cost did scarce joyne together. As for great persons that ended their lives in this City I have read of foure especially of eminent marke. The first was that famous Roman Emperor Alexander Severus, The Roman who by the meanes of one Maximinus a Thracian Captaine EmPmr that succeeded him afterward in the Empire, was here most crueUy slaine by a company of seditious souldiers that he appointed for the same purpose, even after he had lived nine and twenty yeares, three moneths and seven daies. His death was the more memorable because the historians write that he died the very same day that Alexander the Great did, which was the eight and twentieth of Julie, being the day of his nativity also. The second was that vertuous Lady Mammea mother to the foresaid Emperour, and Aunt to that vicious Emperour Heliogabalus, who was slaine here at the same time with her sonne. The third an Empresse, whose name was Fastrada, the fourth wife of the Emperour Charlemaine, of whom I have made mention before in my Observations of Wormes. In this City shee was buried in the year 792. in the Church of St. Albanus. Also in the same Church is shewed the monument of Ludolphus Duke of Suevia, the eldest sonne of the Emperour Otho surnamed the Great, by his first wife Edith an English Lady. This Ludolphus died a naturall death in Lombardie after he had gotten the victory 281 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES of King Berengarius the third of that name, being sent against him by his father Otho. But his body was after ward brought to this City of Mentz by the meanes of his brother William Bishop thereof. Ludovicus Pius the first Emperour of that name, and the sonne of the Emperor Charlemaine, died in this City in the threescore and fourth yeare of his age, after he had reigned seven and twenty yeares : but his body was afterward buried in the City of [p- 555-] Mentz neare his mother Hildegardis. Likewise many Saints and 0f Gods Saints and holy Martyrs of the Church have martyrs. Deene crowned in this City with the crowne of martyr dome. But the chiefest of aU was the foresaid Albanus, who being a Grecian borne was expeUed out of his native City Philippi of Greece (unto the inhabitants whereof St. Paul wrote his Epistle) by certaine Heretiques of his country in the yeare 425. and shortly after arrived at this City of Mentz, together with one of his countrymen called Theonestus, where at length he suffered death for the Gospels sake, and was buried in a part of the city, where there was a Church erected afterward to the honour of his name. In which the body of the foresaid Empresse Fastrada doth lie interred. One thing that is very memorable I wiU not omit in the discourse of this famous City of Mentz, that it gave the first vitali light to that learned and RhetoricaU Shee- Pope Joan. Pope Joane, where after shee had sate two yeares in the Popedome, immediately after Leo the fourth, she died in child-birth. For it is most certaine that shee was borne in this place, being confirmed by the authority of many learned and ancient authours, though Onuphrius Panu- inius an Augustinian Frier of Verona, and some of the Patriarches of the Jesuiticall societie have of late yeares gone about to prove the contrary. JuliusCasar's Julius Caesar having conquered all the Cities on this CGaia!um sic*e °* the Rhene which was in his time called GaUicum Httus_ littus, the shore of Gallia, &c. planted garrisons in each of them as I have already said, for the better fortification of the place, and to keepe the bordering people living in 282 OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE the same territorie in awe and subjection of the Romans. For which cause he assigned Lieutenants called in Latin Prcefecti, to all the principall Cities and Townes that he had conquered. But him that he appointed Governour of this City he placed in a more eminent degree of dignity then the rest. For he intitled him Dux Moguntinus, as I have before written in my Observations both of Stras- [p. 556.] bourg and Wormes. So that all the other inferiour Pre fects were altogether subject to his becke. And of those Prefects there were ten severaU persons that resided in as Roman many distinct places for the defence of the country. P'eJects- Whereof the chiefest was commorant at Strasbourg, as I have before said. The second at a place called Seltz. The third at Zabern in Alsatia where the Bishop of Stras bourg doth commonly keepe his residence. The fourth at Altrip not farre from Spira. The fifth at Wissenburg. The sixth at Wormes. The seventh at Bing. The eight at Boppard. The ninth at Confluence. The tenth and last at Andernach. The authority of all these inferiour Lieutenants was confined within those limits, that they had not the power to attempt any matter of moment without the leave of the Moguntine Marshall or Lieutenant whom they acknowledged for their Generall Captaine. Also every one of them had a complet legion assigned him for the defence of the place, which how much it containeth I have before mentioned in my notes of Lyons. Two principall Marshals or Lieutenants of the Romans Two eminent that made their residence in this city I will briefly mention, Rmfn , , . J . ' . , lieutenants. because they were men of great eminency, and much celebrated by the ancient Roman historiographers. The first was Flavius Vespasianus, the same that was afterward Emperour, and the successor of Vitellius. Here he resided in the time of the Emperour Claudius as I take it. The second was Rufus Virginius, a man much mentioned by Cornelius Tacitus. This Virginius is the same that with Julius Vindex Captaine of the Roman legions in France, and Sergius Galba (afterward Emperour) of those in Spaine made an insurrection against the Emperour Nero, 283 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES the newes whereof drove him to that pittifuU exigent that he was faine to cut his owne throate. But how Tong this City was swayed by a Roman Marshall after the time of Julius Caesar, truly I do not certainly know, howbeit I tp- 557-] conjecture that it was subject to the Romans as long as the other Cities in the same banke of the Rhene, as Strasbourg, Wormes, &c. even tiU the time of the HunnicaU King Attila, which being then expugned by his hostile sword, and consumed to dust and ashes by his incendiarie souldiers, it was afterward most sumptuously reedified by Dagobert King of France, remaining for the space of many yeares under the dominion of the French Kings, tiU at last having shaken off the yoke of forraine Lords, it was wholly subject to their Archbishop, who is at this day the soveraigne Prince and Lord of Mentz, which City doth professe the same religion that he himselfe doth, which is that of the Church of Rome. Thus much of Mentz. Was imbarked at Mentz the thirteenth of September being Munday, about seven of the clocke in the morn ing, and passed downe the goodly river Mcenus, which at Mentz doth mingle it selfe with the Rhene till I came to a towne within foure miles of Frankford where I arrived, and from thence performed the rest of my journey by land, and came to the Citie of Frankford which is sixteene miles from Mentz, about five of the clocke in the afternoone. But before I begin to write any thing of Franckford, I will make some further mention of the river Mcenus, and of such things as I observed betwixt Mentz River Maine, and Franckford. This Mcenus which heretofore was other wise called Mogonus, is a very faire navigable river, in some places almost as broad as the Rhene at Mentz. It is commonly esteemed the fourth river of Germany, and is in the catalogue of the Germane rivers ranked next to the Neccar that runneth by Heidelberg. It riseth in the countrie of Voitlandia which confineth upon Saxonie, even a little beyond the Citie of Bamberga, and so rowling 284 I OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE Melancthon 's verses on the River Maine. along with a great company of crooked windings (not much [p- 558-] unhke to the noble Asiaticke river Maeander so celebrated by the ancient Poets for his often turnings) through the territory of Franconia, and entertaining these three rivers more, the Pegnetius at Norimberg, the Tuberus at Roten- burg a Citie of the foresaid Franconia, and the Mimlingus (all which doe issue out of the forrest Ottonica that I have before named in my discourse of Heidelberg ;) at last it joyneth with the Rhene, right opposite to the city of Mentz as I have already said. I have read foure Greeke verses of Philip Melancthon with a translation of the same into as many Latine, which he once made in a very con ceited and wittie veine upon the five letters of the name of the river Mcenus, which according to a pretty kind of hieroglyphicaU manner he hath so finely contrived, that the five letters (but as they are the elements of the Greeke alphabet, not as Latine characters) doe expresse the full number of the daies of the yeare. I have therefore thought good to mention those verses in this place, since this present discourse of the Mcenus doth minister this occasion unto me : because I thinke they will be very acceptable to the learned reader. The learned reader I say, but not to the unlearned. For indeed he must have both learning and a good capacity that shall rightly conceive the meaning of them. Truly the elegancy of them in my poore judgement is such, that for mine owne part I will boldly say they do expresse the most ingenious conceit that ever I read in my life. In so much that the first time I saw them, I did even hugge them with a great applause. Whatsoever thou art that dost applaud elegancies, judici ously reade these verses, and then I thinke thou wilt say they are worthy to be placed in the very front of thy index of elegant conceits. Without any longer preambles 1 present unto thee the verses themselves, even these. E'£a>)(a twv aXXwv tcc? 4 OBSERVATIONS OF BOPPARD more of this city, as of the monuments and antiquities thereof (for some I heard are there to be seene) which it was not possible for me to survay, because I came there late in the evening, and departed early the next day beeing Sunday and the eighteenth of September, about sixe of the clocke in the morning. The next Telonium that wee came unto was Lanstein the seventh in number, which is Lahnstein. in the dominion of the Archbishop of Mentz, and of the Popish religion. This standeth in the left banke of the Rhene also. From thence we came to the Citie of Con- fluentia commonly called Cobolentz, on the left hand of the Rhene, which belongeth to the Archbishop of Trevirs ; and hath her denomination from the Latin word confluere, which signifieth to runne together, because in that place there is a confluent of two noble rivers, the Rhene and the Mosella. The later of them is called Obrinca by Ptole- RiverMoselle. mseus Alexandrinus. It riseth out of the country of Lingones in France, commonly called Langres, and runneth [p. 580.] by the Cities of Mentz and Trevirs, and washeth a great part of the Country that was heretofore called Austrasia, but now Lotharingia, from the Emperour Lotharius the first, who changed the name thereof, commonly Lorraine. I observed a fayre wooden bridge over this river at Con fluence supported with thirteene arches. This City is not Coblenz an inferiour in antiquity to any other of these Rhenish Cities ancunt "9- or townes that I have named since I came from Mentz. For it flourished in the daies of Julius Caesar, in whose time it was planted with a garrison of soldiers in the behalfe of the Romanes, and governed by one of the foresaid tenne Roman Prefects that were subject to the high Marshall of Mentz. I observed that this city is invironed with strong walles, fayrly adorned with pretty litde Turrets, that do yeeld a very delicate shew. In this City was holden an Imperial Diet about the yeare of our Lord 1 137. where most of the greatest Princes of Germany were assembled to choose Conrade the third that was Duke of Suevia, Emperour. The religion of it is PapisticaU. Also there was shewed mee a very faire Monastery upon c. c. 11 305 u CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Castle of Hammerstein. [P. 581.] Andernach. Two great battles. a hill neere the City, which is inhabited by a convent of Carthusian Monkes. Likewise on the other side of the river right opposite to the City, I saw a very strong and impregnable Castell called Hermenstein, situate upon a very eminent rocke. It belongeth to the Archbishop of Trevirs also, and is esteemed the strongest and greatest Castell of all Germany beyond all comparison. I heard that it is exceeding plentifully furnished with all manner of warlike munition, and continually kept by two hundred presidiary souldiers, which do most vigilantly gard it night and day, and are so carefuU of it, that they will not give a stranger leave to come within it, though hee would give a great summe of money to see it. The eighth custome Towne is called Engers, which is subject to the Archbishop of Trevirs. The ninth Andernach situate upon the left side of the Rhene, a very ancient towne in the Diocesse of the Archbishop of Colen. For here resided another of the Roman Prefects in the time of Julius Caesar, and was the place where the last of the tenne garrisons lay that were subject to the authority of the Moguntine Mar shall. It was in former times caUed Antennacum. For so doth Ammianus MarceUinus that ancient Historio grapher call it. For many hundred yeares agoe it suffered great dilapidations. But in the yeare 1 1 20. it was very fairely re-edified by a certaine Archbishop of Colen who. bestowed very great cost upon it. For besides the inward : ornaments of the towne hee beautified it with strong walles, ; & built many fayre Towers in them, which do greatly grace ; the towne. An ornament that I much observed in these. Rhenish Cities and townes betwixt Mentz and Colen. ¦ In this towne was that worthy man Joannes Guinterius .. borne, once publike professour of the Greeke tongue in. the University of Strasbourg, as I have before mentioned ; in my discourse of that City. Neere this towne were:~ fought two very great battels in the moneth of October ". anno 876, betwixt the Emperour Charles the second sur- J named the Bald, and Lewes the second sonne of the elder 1. brother, surnamed Germanicus, in which battel his Nephew * 306 OBSERVATIONS OF ANDERNACH won the honour of the field to his great glory, and did put the Emperour his Uncle to flight. The second was betwixt that victorious German Emperour Otho surnamed the Great, and Ebarhardus Duke of Franconia, wherein the Duke was slaine ; and Gislebertus Duke of Lorraine, who married the Lady Gerbirga the Emperours eldest sister, and was confederated with the said Eberhardus, was drowned in the river Rhene but a little from the place where the battell was fought. Here the Emperour partly slue and partly tooke prisoners all those Earles and great Lordes that held with his enemies. This hapned about the yeare of our Lord 950. The tenth is called Lintz, [p. 582.] situate on the right banke of the Rhene, and in the Diocesse of the Archbishop of Colen, whose religion it Linz. professeth. This towne is famous for the residence of the Emperour Frederick the third, who did sometimes keepe his imperiall Court here, and at last died in this towne of a surfet by eating too many mellons, upon the nineteenth day of August in the yeare of our Lord 1493, and of his age seventy eight, after hee had swayed the Empire fifty three yeares, 4 moneths, & 4 daies. He lived 3 yeares longer then Augustus Caesar, & reigned 3 yeares lesse. But his body doth not lie here ; for it was translated from this place where it lay for the space of 20 yeares, to Vienna in Austria, in the yeare 13 15, and the seventh day of November, where his bones have bene kept ever since in a most magnificent Mausoleum. From Lintz we went to an obscure towne in the Diocesse of Colen, called Uber- Oberwintet: winter that standeth in the left banke of the Rhene, and came thither about sixe of the clocke in the evening, where wee remained all that night. This daies journey betwixt the Citie of Boppard and Uberwinter contained some thirty miles. In this place we solaced our selves after our tedious labour of rowing as merily as we could. One merry conceit amongst the rest that I heard in this good A merry company I will here relate. One of my Moguntine cmcnt- associats that was a merry Gentleman, and one that had lately bene a student in the Universitie of Altorph neere 307 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES the City of Norimberg, told me as we sate together at supper, that a certain Bishop had two kind of wines in his ceUar, a better and a worse, that were called by two distinct names, the better Noli me tangere, the worse Utcunque. And that a certaine merry conceited feUow that sate at the Bishops table, having dranke once or twise of the utcunque, so much disliked it that he would drink no more of it. Therefore he spake to one of the Bishops servants that waited at table, to give him a draught of the [p. 583.] Noli me tangere, & withal pronounced unto him, in the presence of the Bishop these two merry Latin verses ex tempore. Si das Utcunque, daemon vos tollat utrunque : Ibis ad astra poli, si fers Me tangere noli. With this and such other pleasant conceits we recreated our selves that night at Uberwinter, and the next morning being munday and the nineteenth of September, we tooke boate againe about three of the clocke, and came to Colen which was eighteene miles beyond it, about tenne of the same morning : our whole journey betwixt Mentz and Colen was about seventy eight miles. I observed in a great many places, on both sides of the Rhene, more gallowes and wheeles betwixt Mentz and Colen, then ever I saw in so. short a space in all my life, especially within few miles of Colen, by reason that the rusticaU Corydons of the country, which are commonly called the Boores and Free-booters. the Free-booters (a name that is given unto the lewd murdering villaines of the country that live by robbing and spoyTing of travellers, beeing called Free booters, because they have their booties and prey from passengers free, paying nothing for them except they are taken) do commit many notorious robberies neere the Rhene, who are such cruell and bloody horseleaches (the very Hyenas & Lycanthropi of Germany) that they seldome robbe any man but forthwith they cut his throat. And some of them doe afterward escape, by reason of the woodes neere at hand in which they shelter themselves free from danger. 308 OBSERVATIONS OF BONN Yet others are sometimes taken, and most cruelly excarni- Their ficated and tortured upon these wheeles, in that manner punishment. that I have before mentioned in some of my observations of France. For I sawe the bones of many of them lie uppon the wheele, a doleful spectacle for any relenting Christian to beholde. And upon those gaUowes in divers places I sawe murderers hang, partly in chaines, and partly without chaines. A punishment too good for these Cyclopicall Anthropophagi, these Caniball man-eaters. I [p. 584.] have heard that the Free-booters doe make themselves so strong, that they are not to be taken by the country. For I observed a towne about twenty miles on this side Colen, called Remagan, situate neere the Rhene, which about Remagen some ten yeares since was miserably ransacked by these 'ac^ed by Free-booters, who banded themselves together in so great Jree a troope as consisted of almost three thousand persons. The towne it selfe they defaced not, but only took away their goods, to the utter undoing and impoverishment of the inhabitants. The like they did to a goodly Palace hard by it called the Praepositura, by reason that it belongeth to an Ecclesiastical Praepositus, a man of great authority, that doth sometimes make his residence in that place. Within a few miles on this side Colen we arrived at the fayre towne of Bonna situate on the left bank of the Bonn. Rhene, a place of great antiquity. For it was built either a little before the incarnation of Christ, or in the time of Christ. That it is ancient it appeareth by the testimony of that famous Geographer Claudius Ptolemaeus of Alex andria, who lived about 140 yeares after Christ, in the time of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius Antonius sur named Philosophus. This towne is the eleventh and the last Telonium of all those betwixt Mentz & Colen. It belongeth to the Archbishop of Colen, and professeth the same religion that he doth, which is that of the church of Rome. Here the Archbishop hath a Palace situated Archbishop's hard by the Rhene, a most magnificent and princely build- Palace- ing; but much inferiour to divers Palaces both of our King James, and of many Noblemen of England. Which I 3°9 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES therefore adde because one of my company that advised me to behold it well, told mee it was a Palace of so great magnificence, that he thought all my country of England could not yeeld the like. But surely his opinion was very false and erroneous. For besides many other English tP- 585-l Palaces that do surpasse that of the Archbishop of Colen, there is one in mine owne country of Somersetshire, even the magnificent house of my most worthy and right Wor- Sir Edward shipful neighbour and Meccenas Sir Edward Philippes now Phtlipps, maister 0f the Rolles (whome I name honoris causa) in Rolls. tne towne of Montacute, so stately adorned with the statues of the nine Worthies, that may bee at the least equally ranked with this of Bonna, if not something pre ferred before it. At this towne the stiepe Rhenish Mountaines, which did on both sides inclose the Rhene like to naturall walles or Bulwarkes betwixt the towne of Bing (as I have before said) and Bonna for the space of more then fifty miles, do desinere in planiciem, which plain continued till I came to the farther bound of my journey upon the Rhene in the Netherlands, as I have before said also. Bonna with Colen and many other goodly Townes in that tract was once most grievously spoyled by the Normans in the time of the Emperour Lotharius the second. It hapned that this nineteenth day of September when I came to Colen, was according to the computation of the Church of these parts of Christendome the feast of St. Michael the Archangel, which was ten dayes sooner there then with us in England. Upon which day there were many religious ceremonies celebrated in the City of Colen, and great shewes of Saints reliques. Amongst other things I observed a very frequent concurse of people at a little Chappel situate on the left side of the Rhene about a mile on this side Colen, in which they report the body of S. Maternus. St. Maternus was buried, who was one of the Disciples of St. Peter the Apostle, and the first converter both of the City of Colen, and of divers other Cities and Townes in the Provinces thereabout from Gentilisme to Christianity. 310 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE But at this day there is only the shrine of him shewed in the foresaid Chappell in which his body was once in- tombed. That shrine they worshipped very religiously with many holy ceremonies upon that day of St. Michael, [p. 586.] But now it is only an empty monument void of any thing. For his bones were afterward carried to the City of Trevirs (as I heard divers report in Colen) where they are kept to this day together with many ancient reliques of other Saints which that City doth more abundantly yeeld (as many have told me in divers places) then any City of all Christendome saving Rome. The end of my Observations of some parts of high Germanie. The Beginning of my Observations of the Netherlands. My Observations of Colonia Agrippina com monly called Colen. Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon Colen. Maxima cognati Regina Colonia Rheni, Scaliger's Hoc te etiam titulo Musa superba canit. ^Tl!" t» ¦ 1 1 • /-> • Cologne. Romani statuunt, habitat Germania, terra est Belgica, ter foelix nil tibi Diva deest. He ancient Ubii that are mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus, having abandoned their owne native country, which was neare to the river Albis in Saxonie, by reason of their continuaU broiles and con flicts with the Suevians, came into this territory where Colen now standeth, and [P- 587-] are said to be the first original founders thereof, many Founders of yeares before the incarnation of Christ, from whom the oeffie' City derived the denomination of Ubiopolis before it was caUed Colonia. But I cannot finde in any authour 3" CORYAT'S CRUDITIES either the designation of the certaine yeare of the founda tion, whereby a man might gather how long before the comming of Christ it was first founded, or mention of any principall men of that nation of the Ubii that might be properly intitled the founders thereof. After it was founded by these Ubii, it hapned that Julius Caesar having conquered it together with many other Rhenish Cities before mentioned, on the left side of the river, built a wooden bridge over the Rhene, to serve for the con veighing of his armie into the other side of the river, that he might fight with the Germans : and from thence forth it was under the subjection of the Romans for many yeares. Not long after the time of Julius Caesar it was so exceedingly amplified and inlarged by the Romans, that it farre surpassed aU the Cities whatsoever in aU the Cologne bordering Provinces. But to whom the glory of this ZPfdy amplification is to be ascribed, the authours doe some- 7he Romans, thing differ. For the Colonians themselves thinke (as it appeareth by a memorable inscription written upon their Praetorium which I wiU hereafter mention) that Marcus Vipsanius * Agrippa sonne in law of Augustus Caesar (for he married his daughter Julia the widow of his worthy nephew Marcellus, who was sonne to his sister Octavia) founded it about sixteene yeares before the incarnation of Christ. Others attribute it to Agrippina the wife of renowned Germanicus Caesar, and daughter of the fore said Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa by his wife Julia ; which certainly in my opinion is the more probable of the two, because it is confirmed by the testimony of a very authen- ticke and irrefragable authour, Cornelius Tacitus, who Uved shortly after the time of Agrippina, even in the daies of [p. 588.] the Emperour Tiberius. For he writeth that the Lady Agrippina to the end shee might shew her power to the bordering nations of her country, commanded that a colonie of old souldiers (which we commonly caU trained souldiers) should be planted in the towne of the Ubians, * This is that Agrippa of whom Virgil speaketh in his eighth yEnei. Parte alia ventis & diis Agrippa secundis arduus, &c. 312 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE who imposed a double name upon it, both that of Colonia, because it was amplified by a colonie of Roman souldiers, and that of Agrippina from her owne name, because shee was borne in that towne. From that time it was inhabited by the Romans for the space of foure hundred yeares, till the time of Marcomirus King of France, who chaced them out of the City. After that the Emperour Otho sur named the Great, tooke it away from the Frenchmen, and made it tributarie to the Roman Empire, under whose sacred protection it hath ever since remained for the space of more then sixe hundred years to this day. The situation of Colen is very delectable. For it Situation of standeth in a pleasant and fruitfull plaine hard by the Cologne. Rhene, which washeth the waUs thereof, as it doth Basil and Mentz. The compasse of it is so great, that I heard it credibly reported a man can hardly goe round about it under the space of foure houres, which if it be true, it containeth in circuit at the least eight of our English mUes. The buildings of the City both publique and private are very faire, and many of their private houses I observed to be of a notable heigth, even foure stories high, whereof some are built altogether with stone, and some with timber. As for the walles of the City they City walls. are built in that manner that they yeeld great beauty to the same. For they are compacted of very strong and hard stone, and raised to a stately heigth, and distinguished with a great company of turrets which doe specially gar nish the citie. Besides whereas the wall extendeth it selfe in a great length upon the very banke of the Rhene, it presenteth a farre of a passing beautifull shew unto them that approch towards the City upon the river, either [P- 589-l from the East or West. Their streets and market places Streets and are many and very spacious, especiaUy two market places market paces. that I tooke exact notice of above the rest, whereof the one in which they ordinarily sell their necessaries and keepe their markets, is a hundred threescore and sixteen paces long, and threescore and three broade. The other where their Merchants doe meete twise a day which they call 313 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES many churches. in Latin forum fcenarium, because they use to seU hay in the same, is the fairest that I saw in my whole voyage, saving that of St. Marks street in Venice. For it is two hundred and fourescore paces long, and fourescore and foure broade. For indeede I meated them both. And this last market place is marvailously graced with many sumptuous and stately buildings both at the sides and the endes. Surely the beauty of this market place is such by reason of so* many magnificent houses including it, that I thinke if a clowne that never saw any faire shewes in his life should suddenly arrive there, he would be halfe amazed with the majestie of the place. The number of Cologne has their Churches is more (if that be true that many reported unto me) then in any City I saw in my journey, though I have written of two hundred in Venice. Nay I thinke no city in Christendome doth yeeld so many saving Rome, but I speake with a restriction, if that be true which they reported. For they say their city can yeeld a Church for every day in the yeare : that is, in the total number, three hundred threescore and five. But in this summe they reckon aU their little chappels belonging to Nunnes and to aU other religious convents whatsoever. Yet I be leeve they can hardly make up the fuU number of three hundred threescore and five. For Munster that maketh a catalogue of their Churches, reckoneth no more of them then there are weeks in the yeare, even two and fifty, which abridgeth their number by three hundred and fifteen. But indeede he excludeth out of his account aU their little chappels, whereof I understand there is a great multitude in the city, aU which they adde unto the rest to make up their number of three hundred threescore and five. Their Cathedrall Church which is dedicated to St. Peter, is a goodly building, but it is great pittie that it is so imperfect. For it is but halfe ended. Doubtlesse it would be a very glorious & beautifuU worke if it had been throughly finished, especially for the outward workman ship, which is exceUently adorned at the east end with 3H [P- 59°-] Cathedral Church of S. Peter. OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE The three Kings of Cologne. many lofty pillars and pinnacles that doe wonderfuUy gar nish that part. Amongst many other worthy monuments that are contained in this Church, one is that which is the most famous of all Europe, whose fame hath resounded to the farthest confines of aU Christendome. For what is he of any meane learning or understanding that hath not at some time or other in his life heard of the three Kings of Colen? Therefore because it is so remarkable a monument, and so much visited by all strangers that come to the Citie, I visited it as 'well as the rest, and observed it after a more strict and curious manner then every stranger doth. For I wrote out the whole history of them, and have made as particular a discription of the monument as I could possibly doe. Therefore both the description of the sepulcher wherein the bones of the Kings lie, and the history I present unto thee for a noveltie. For certainly I for mine owne part never read it in print before I came thither. Neither have I heard of any man that hath seene it publikely printed but in the same place, which is the reason that moveth me to beleeve that this will be a novelty to every reader that hath not seene the same there as I have done. Blame me not if I am something tedious. For this being the most renowned monument of Christendome may not be briefly past over with a few words. Though I know that most of our learned Protestants will take this history for a meere fig ment, neither am I for mine owne part likewise perswaded but that there are some vaine and frivolous things con- [p. 591.] tained in it, which cannot be justified by the most learned Papists of Christendome : in so much that whereas I often observed for that little time that I was in the Citie, many devout oraizons made at the monument, I said to my selfe that their praiers unto the kings were in vaine, & did but beate the aire, whether the bones of the Magi were there or no. Howbeit seeing there are some few things amongst the rest that are not altogether unworthy the noting, I hope it will not be offensive unto any learned & zealous Protestant that I have here inserted this history 315 Their monu ment the most renowned in Christendom. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES of the three Kings, which I thinke was never before so amply communicated to my country. This famous sepul- cher standeth at the East end of the Church in a faire Chappel that containeth nothing but the same Monu ment, unto the inner part of which Chappell there is no accesse all the day but betwixt sixe and eight of the clocke in the morning, because the dore of it is alwaies locked, saving at that time. The fabricke it selfe by reason of the glorious and most resplendent ornaments about it, is so rich that I never saw the like, neither doe I thinke that in all the westerne parts of the world there is the like to be The shrine, seene. The shrine that containeth the bones of these Saints is within the Chappel (as I have aheady said) and is elevated some two yards above the ground, being inclosed round about with a double grate of yron barres of some foure yards high, contrived in the forme of a lattise window, and fairely painted with red in the outside towards the Church. Also in the same part of the lattise that looketh towards the Church, there is repre sented a great multitude of golden starres, in token that a starre conducted them to Christ. The matter whereof the shrine is composed wherein their sacred bones are shrowded, is pure bright shining brasse, wherein are two rowes of pretty religious images, made in brasse also, and it is garnished with many exquisite devices contrived in checker worke with faire colours that doe much adorne [p. 592.] the monument. Besides there is wonderfuU abundance of precious Stones of different kinds and great worth, in serted into two severaU degrees of the monument, whereof many are fully as big as my thumbe. For the tombe is divided into two parts, the higher and the lower. At the West end of West end or front of it which looketh towards the Church, the tomb. there are many glittering and rich ornaments, which are not so openly exposed that every body may come to handle them. For there is a partition betwixt them and that part of the Church where people use to stand to behold them. Some of the principall riches doe consist partly in an image of our Lady, & partly in certaine cups 316 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE or goblets that hang at the front. The image of our Lady who is represented bearing Christ in her armes, is very cosdy. For it is said that it is made of pure silver, and double gilted. The goblets in number ten, which are hanged directly before the image upon a brasen rod some two yards long, are said to be made of massie gold, one whereof the Emperour Charles the fifth bestowed upon the monument. For a testimony whereof there is hanged up a square plate of gold, wherein the blacke spread-eagle which is the Emperours armes, is engraved, and this inscription foUowing is written. Invictissimus Inscriptions on atque potentissimus Carolus V. Imper. & Hispaniarum * e tm ' rex Augustissimus, Deo omnipotenti, beatae Marias, S S tribus Regibus die 3 Januarii, Anno Domini. 1554. prae- clarum munus dono obtulit. Likewise unto another of these tenne there is fixed another square plate of gold, wherein this inscription is written. Beatae Virgini Marias sanctissimae, & tribus Regibus Reverendus & iUustris Princeps & Dominus D. Joannes Gebhardus ex Comiti- bus a Mansfelt electus & confirmatus Archipraesul Agrip- pinus, sacri Romani Imperii per Italiam Archicancella- rius, Princeps Elector, Westphaliae & Angarise Dux, Lega- tusque natus, dono dicavit. Also, before our Ladies £ai£ image there hangeth a marvellous rich crosse of massie gold adorned with a great multitude of precious stones, [p. 593-] & under her image there are many rich stones of divers kinds. Moreover before her image there stand foure candelsticks wherein there do alwaies burne foure waxen tapers. Two of these candelsticks are exceeding faire and much costlier then the rest. Againe the top of the frontispice of the monument is beautified partly with the images of the three Kings formed in silver, and richly gilted, who are most curiously counterfeited, bearing their gifts in their hands, gold, myrrhe, and frankencense ; and partly with the like image of our Lady standing in the very middest with Christ in her armes. One Images of the of the Kings is presented like a blacke Moore with a three Kmgs- golden crowne upon his head. The other two uncovered. 3T7 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES In the outward edge of the front these verses are written. Corpora Sanctorum loculus tenet iste Magorum, Indeque sublatum nihil est alibive locatum. Sunt juncti Felix, Nabor & Gregorius istis. In the middle of this outward edge there is presented a faire scutchin and armes under the which this is written. Renovatum asre Q. R. D. Joannis Walschartz Tungri S. T. D. Hujus Ecclesiae Canonici, Anno 1597. ora pro eo. All this that I have hitherto written since I first made mention of the monument, containeth nothing but a History of the description thereof. Now foUoweth the history which is monument. altogether as memorable as the monument it selfe. It was within these few yeares printed at Colen, and is pasted upon three severall tables which hang apart in as many distinct places without the Chappel. It is divided into nine particular sections. Also each section hath its mar- ginall notes, which because they are so many that the margent of the Page cannot conveniently containe them, I have (contrary to the common custome) subscribed the quotations belonging to each section, directly under the section it selfe. [p- 594-] The title of the history is this. Brevis historia Magorum ex sacris Uteris & probatis Ecclesiae scriptoribus collecta. The historie it selfe is this following. First section. ia"|i TAgi, qui primi omnium ex gentibus Christi Salva- i-VJ. toris infantiam in Bethleem b decimotertio post nativitatem die adorarunt, c tres numero fuerunt. Ac si d Epiphanio credimus, ex Abraham originem duxerunt, ex filiis ejus quos ex c Cethura ancilla suscepit, descen- dentes. Cui non repugnat quod f Origines et e Chryso- stomus ad h Balaam Prophetam Gentilem, Magorum 318 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE originem referunt. Nam & ipse, sicut etiam ' Regina Saba, ex ejusdem Cethuras filiis duxit originem. The quotations of this first section are these. "Math. 2. bAmmonius Alexandrinus in Harmonia Evangelica. Alcuinus de divinis officiis. cap. de Epi- phania. Anselmus in 2. Math. Nicephorus lib. i. Ecclesiasticae historiae. cap. 13. c Leo serm. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. de Epiphania. August, serm. r. de Epiphania, & Rupertus in 2. Math. " In compendio doctrinae Chris tianas. e Genes. 25. f Homilia 13. in Numer. s Homilia ex variis in Math, locis. Petrus de Natalibus lib. 2. Cata. Sanct. 4 cap. 48. cap. h Numer. 24. ' 3 Reg. 10. 2 Nomina eorum, aetas, & vultus cujusmodi, fuerint, Secondsection. & quae quisque munera obtulerit, sicut ex majorum tradi- tione acceperat, his verbis describit Venerabilis " Beda. Primus, inquit, dicitur fuisse Melchior, senex barba. pro- lixa & capillis, aurum obtulit regi Domino. Secundus nomine Gaspar, juvenis imberbis, rubicundus, thure quasi Deo oblatione digna Deum honorabat. Tertius fuscus, integre barbatus, Balthasar nomine, per myrrham filium hominis moriturum professus est. Quod autem unus [p. 595.] eorum niger & iEthiops depingi soleat, ut in multis iisque antiquis apud nos picturis apparet, ex eo profectum vide- tur, turn quod Beda tertium fuscum fuisse perhibit, tum quod ex Psalmo 72, die Regum in Ecclesia decantatur, Coram iUo procident iEthiopes. The quotation of this section is short, only this. Venerabilis B. in Collectaneis. 3 Non obscuri eos loci aut ordinis, sed Principes viros Third section. atque etiam Reges fuisse, quod Christi gloriam maxime illustrat, pium est credere. Id enim veteris legis a figures, quae in Solomone antecessit, & Prophetarum, maxime b Davidis & c Esaias, vaticiniis consentaneum est. Quorum iUe inquit. Reges Tharsis & insulas munera 3*9 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES offerent, Reges Arabum & Saba dona adducent. Pos terior vero : & abulabunt gentes in lumine tuo, & Reges in splendore ortus tui. Quae de Magorum vocatione oblationeque ab Ecclesia & d Sanctis Patribus intelliguntur. Item e Herodis ac totius urbis Hierosolymitanae ad eorum adventum trepidatio, munera item preciosa, quae ex thes- auris suis deprompsisse referuntur, Majorum denique traditio scriptis, f sermonibus cantionibus, hymnis, & pic- turis ut vulgaribus sic antiquis prodita, confirmant. Nee quidquam ad rem facit quod Evangelista non appeUavit Reges, sed Magos. Id enim s consulto factum est, quod Christi gloria nostraque religio Magorum sive Sapientum testimonio potius quam Regum potentia constabilienda videretur. The quotations of the third section. a3 Reg. 10. bPsal. 72. cEsaias 60. d Chrysost. homil. r. ex variis in Matth. locis. Leo sermone de Epiphania. e Matth. 2. cap. 3. ver. fTertuUianus lib. 3. contra Judaeos cap. 9. Isidorus de passione Dominica cap. 15. Anselmus & Theophylactus in 2. cap. Math. Vide Cicer. de Divinatione. Plinius lib. 3. naturalis historiae. cap. 1. Adam Sasbont homil. de Epiphania. Franciscus Suarez in 3. par. D. Thomas tomo 2. s Melchior Canus lib. n. Locorum Theologicorum, cap. 5. Hector Pin- tus in 1. cap. Danielis. Caesar Baronius lib. 1. Anna- lium. [p- 596-] 4 Ad professionem eorum quod attinet, tametsi non desint qui 1 Magorum nomine maleficos ac magicis artibus Fourth section, instructos accipiant : potior tamen illorum sententia nobis esse debet qui 2 Sapientes astrologos fuisse arbitrantur, qui arte mathematica, (ut 3 Cyprianus loquitur) vim & dis- cursum noverant planetarum, & elementorum naturam, & astrorum ministeria certis experimentis observabant. Undb convenienter admodum, divina 4 Sapientia quoe dis- ponit omnia suaviter, SteUae potissimum indicio illos tan quam astrorum peritos ad se pertraxit, accedente tum 320 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE gratias divinas lumine, tum hominum ex Scripturis demon- stratione. Nam de loco 5 ubi Christus nasceretur, a, Scribis, ex 6 Michea instructi sunt & Stellam illam Messiae ortum significare, ex 7 Balaam Prophetia per Majorum traditionem acceperunt. The quotations of the fourth. 1 Justinus dialogo contra Tryphonem. Origines lib. i. contra Celsum, & homilia 13. in Numeros. Chrysos- tomus homilia 1 & 14 ex variis in Matth. locis. Augusti. sermone 2 de Epiphania. 2 Chrisost. homilia 2 operis imperfecti. Leo sermone 4 de Epiphania. Hieronymus in 2 cap. Daniel, & 47 Esaias. Anselmus & Rupertus in 2 Matth. 3 sermo de steUa & Magis. 4 Sapientiae 8. 5 Matth. 2. 6 Micheae 5. 7 Numeri 24. Origines homilia 13 in Numeros & lib. 1 contra Celsum. Leo sermone 4 de Epiphania. 5 Ex Arabia Foelice venisse, quod * Justinus Martyr, Fifth section. 2 Tertullianus, 3 Cyprianus, & 4 Epiphanius memoriae pro- diderunt, verisimile videtur. Tum quod Arabia respectu Judeas ad Orientem, Tacito 5 teste, sita ; tum 6 quod auri, 7 thuris, & myrrhas ferax sit : demum quod haec opinio consentiat cum Esaias 8 vaticinio : Omnes de Saba (quae, teste in eum locum, & libro quasstionum in Gene- sim D. Hieronymo, Arabia est) venient, aurum & thus deferentes. Cum illo item 9 Davidico. Reges Arabum et Saba dona adducent. Et rursus. Dabitur ei de auro Arabias. The quotations of the fifth. [p. 597.] 1 Justinus Martyr dialogo contra Tryphonem. 2 Ter tullianus lib. contra Judaeos cap. 9 et lib. 3 contra Mar- cionitas cap. 13. 3 Sermone de Stella et Magis. 4 Com- pendio doctrinae Christianas. 5 lib. 5 historiarum. 6 Psal. 71. 7 Tertullianus Apologetico cap. 30, 42. Plinius lib. 2 naturalis historiae, cap. 14. 8 cap. 60. 9 Psal. 71. c c. 11 321 X CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Sixth section. 6 'Ponb 1 auri, thuris, et myrrhae munera Christo obtu- lerunt, quod his rebus Arabia imprimis abundaret et superbiret. Deinde quod 2 Regina Saba, quam ex gente et familia Magorum fuisse proditum est, simiUa dona, aurum, inquam, et aromata, quibus gemmas preciosas addidit, Solomoni Regi, in typum Christi donaverat. Adde quod, quae Cethurae filiis munera dedisse Abraham in 25 Geneseos commemoratur, ea ex Hebraeorum tradi- tionibus 3 Epiphanius refert, vestes, aurum, thus, & myrrham fuisse. Postremo non tam gentis suae morem & exempla majorum, verumetiam mysticam rationem secuti, hoc quod cordibus credunt, muneribus 4 protestan- tur ; Thus deo, myrrham homini, aurum offerunt regi, & his se instruunt donis, ut adoraturi unum, tria se semel credidisse demonstrent, auro honorantes personam regiam, myrrha humanam, thure divinam. The quotations of the sixth. 1 Math. 2. 2 3 Reg. 10 cap. 3 Compendio Doctrinae Christianas. 4 Leo sermone 2 de Epiphania. 7 Post Christi ascensionem, a. x D. Thoma Apostolo in fide Christi plenius instructi, ad hoc baptizati, imo 2 Pas- tores etiam et Doctores sive Episcopi in populo suo ordinati sunt, magnamque Gentilium turbam ad Chris tianas religionis cultum adduxerunt, atque ita ut primitias frugum copiosa messis consequitur : sic Magos primitias credentium ex Gentibus, innumerabilium fides populorum, tanquam uberrima seges est subsecuta, impletumque vaticinium 3 Davidis, qui postquam praedixerat, Reges Arabum et Saba dona adducent, subjungit, Et adorabunt eum omnes Reges, et omnes gentes servient ei. Item 4 Omnes gentes quascunque fecisti, venient et adorabunt coram te Domine, et glorificabunt nomen tuum. The quotations of the seventh. 1 Chrysost. homilia. 2 operis imperfecti. antiquum Calendarium citatum ab Henrico Pinto, dialogorum 322 Seventhsection. [p. 598.] OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE parte secunda cap. 21. Petrus de Natalibus in Catalogo Sanctorum lib. 26. cap. 48. 2 Chrysost. homilias 6 in Matthaeum, & homilia 1 7 ex variis in Matth. locis. 3 psal. 71. 4psal. 85. 8 Postquam in senectute bona, ex hac vita, decesserunt, Eighth section. corpora eorum primo Helenas Augustas studio Constanti- nopolin allata, deinde Mediolanum ab Eustorgio ejus urbis Episcopo traducta, 1 tandem anno post Christum natum 1 1 64 una cum corporibus SS. Foslicis 2 & Naboris Martyrum in hanc urbem Reinoldo Archiepiscopo trans- lata, hoc loco deposita fuerunt. Ut vero tribus Magis pari numero consociarentur & Martyres, duplicareturque funiculus triplex Sanctorum, divinitus accidit opera Bru- nonis Archiepiscopi, ut duobus illis Martyribus accederet tertius, Gregorius Spoletanus presbyter, sub Dioclesiano & Maximiano passus. Ex quo tempore Colonia Aggrip- pina non minus Celebris esse ccepit istis trium Regum aliorumque sanctorum reliquiis, quam Hierosolyma Stephano, Roma Petro & Paulo, aut Hispania Jacobo, Gallia denique Martino & Hilario. The quotations of the eight. 1 Gulielmus Neubrigensis lib. 2 rerum Anglicarum cap. 8. Crantzius lib. 6. rerum Saxonicarum cap. 24. Petrus de Natalibus Catalogo Sanctorum lib. 2. cap. 48. & lib. 4 cap. 45. Sigonius libro 140. de regno Italias. 2Ambrosius epistola. 85. 9 l Agnoscamus in Magis adoratoribus Christi voca- Ninth section. tionis nostras fideique primitias, & quem illi infantem venerati sunt in cunabulis, nos omnipotentem adoremus in ccelis. Offendebant illi infantem parvulum modicis & vilibis pannis involutum, videbant reclinatum duro in praesepio, aut sinu matris pauperculae exceptum, & tamen [p. 599-1 nihil his omnibus rebus offensi viri barbari, veraeque pietatis & fidei rudes adhuc & ignari, 2 procidentes adora- verunt. 3 Imitemur saltern Barbaras nos qui caelorum 323 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES cives sumus. Et qui Christi majestatem, potentiam, factaque admiranda, & Christianas fidei mysteria cognovi- mus, fidem nostram illorum exemplo confirmemus. Itaque cum in Ecclesia Catholica, quae vere 4 Bethleem, seu domus panis est, idem Christi corpus externis specie- bus tanquam fasciis obvolutum ponitur, consecratur, offertur, sumitur, aut quovis modo nobis representatur : excitemur animo, horrescamusque & quam decet ad tanta mysteria, & animi pietatem & reverentiam corporis affera- mus. Nihil nos conturbet cogitationem fluctus, nee sensuum fallax judicium, nihil haereticorum fabulationes moveant : sed Dei verbum certos faciat. 5 Quoniam ergo ille dixit Hoc est corpus meum : nulla teneamur ambiguitate, sed credamus, & oculis intellectus id per- spiciamus, ac postrati veneremur. Oratio Ecclesiae. Versus. Reges Tharsis & Insulas munera offerunt,"! p . Respon. Reges Arabum & Saba dona adducent, j The quotations of the ninth. 1 Leo serm. 2 de Epiphania. 2 Matth. 2. 3 Chrisost. homilia 24 in 1 ad Corinth, homil. 6 ad populum Anti- ochenum. 4 Gregorius Magnus homilia 8 in Evangelia. 5 Chrysost. homilia 83 in Matthaeum. Also this following in the same Table. Deus illuminator omnium gentium, da populis tuis perpetua. pace gaudere, & illud lumen splendidum in- funde cordibus nostris, quod trium Magorum mentibus aspirasti. Againe. Laetetur Ecclesia tua Deus Beatorum Martyrum tuorum Foelicis, Naboris, & Gregorii confisa suffragiis, 324 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE atque eorum precibus gloriosis & devota permaneat, & secura persistat. Per Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen. Coloniae exeudebat Joannes Durekius, Anno 1596. Because this history is something memorable, though [p. 600.] indeed at the latter end there bee some false doctrine touching the reall presence of Christ in the sacrament, as being a thing compiled by the Jesuiticall Rabbines of this city, as I do conjecture : I have thought good to adde my naked translation of the same, as I have done before of Saint Bernards epistle to the Bishop of Spira, because every man that will reade this, cannot (I am sure) understand it in the Latin. Therefore, that he might not be deprived of so notable a matter as this is, I have done my endevour to translate this historie into English, desiring thee, whatsoever thou art (gentle reader) to pardon me, if I have not so exactly done it as thou Wouldest require at my handes. For as I told thee in my epistle to thy selfe, which I have prefixed before my booke, I neither professe my selfe a schollar, n»r acknowledge my selfe worthy to be ranked amongst scholars, but onely wish to be accounted a friende and lover of the Muses. A History of the Magi gathered out of the holy Scriptures, and approved Writers of the Church. THe Magi, which first of all the Gentiles adored the First section infancy of our Saviour Christ in Bethleem the thir- EnSMed- teenth day after his nativity, were three in number. And (if we beleeve Epiphanius) they derived their pedigree from Abraham, descending from his sonnes which he begot upon his handmaide Cethura. Neither is it any thing repugnant unto this, that Origen and Chrysostome do referre the pedigree of the Magi to Balaam an heathen Prophet. For both he and the Queene of Saba drew 325 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES [P. 60 1.] Second section Englished. Third section Englished. [p. 602.] the originaU of their stocke from the same sonnes of Cethura. 2. What their names, age, and countenance were, and what gifts each of them offered, venerable Beda (accord ing as he had received it by the tradition of his forefathers) expresseth the matter in these wordes. The first, quoth he, is said to be Melchior, an olde man with a long beard and haire. He offered Golde to the King our Lord. The second, whose name was Gaspar, a beardlesse young man and ruddie, honoured God with Franken- sence, as being an oblation beseeming God. The third, called Balthasar, being tawny and fuUy bearded, by Myrrhe signified that the Sonne of man should die. But in that one of them is wont to be painted black, and as an ^Ethiopian, (as it appeareth by many & those very ancient pictures amongst us) hereupon it seemeth to. be grounded, both that Beda affirmeth that the third was tawnie, as also that in the 72 Psalme it is sung in the Church upon the Kinges day, The Ethio pians shaU faU downe before him. 3. That they were not of any obscure place or degree, but princes, yea kings, which doth greatly iUustrate the glory of Christ, it is a part of piety to beleeve. For it is agreeable both to the figure of the old law which went before in Solomon, & to the prophecies of the Prophets, especiaUy of David and Esay; whereof the one saith, The Kings of Tarsis and of the lies shaU bring presents, the Kings of the Arabians and of Saba shaU bring gifts. The other saith: And nations shaU walke in thy light, and Kinges in the brightnesse of thy rising up. Which thinges are understood by the Church and the Holy Fathers, of the calling and oblation of the Magi. This also is confirmed by the feare of Herod, and of the whole City of Jerusalem at the time of their comming : by those precious giftes which they are said to have opened out of their treasures, and by the tradition of our forefathers, by writings, speeches, songes, hymnes, and pictures as 326 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE common, so very ancient. Neither doth this make at all to the matter, that the Evangelist hath not caUed them Kings, but Magi. For that was done to great purpose, in regard that Christes glory and our religion seemed to bee established rather by the testimony of Magi or Wisemen, then by the power of Kings. 4. As concerning their profession, albeit there are some Fourth section that by the name of Magi doe understand wicked persons, En&luhed- and those that practise magicke artes : yet the opinion of them ought to prevaile more with us that thinke they were wise Astrologers, who by the Mathematicke art (as Cyprian speaketh) knew the force and course of the Planets', and by certaine rules of experience observed the nature of the Elements, and the offices of the Starres. Wherehence it came very conveniently to passe that the divine Wisedome, which doth sweetly dispose all things, drew them unto it especially by the token of a starre, as being men skilfull in the arte of Astronomy : whereunto was added both the light of the Divine grace, and also a demonstration of men out of the holy Scriptures. For they were instructed by the Scribes out .of the Prophet Micheas concerning the place where Christ should be borne, and they received it as a certaine tradition of their forefathers out of the Prophecy of Balaam, that the same starre did signifie the birth of the Messias. 5. That they came out of Arabia Fcelix (as Justin Martyr, Tertullian, Cyprian, and Epiphanius have written) it seemeth very probable. Both because Arabia, in respect of Judea, is situate towards the East (according to the testimony of Tacitus) and also because it yeeldeth plenty of gold, frankencense, and myrrhe. Finally for that this opinion doth agree with the Prophecie of Esay. All they of Saba (which is Arabia, as Hierom doth witnesse upon the place, and in the booke of his Questions upon Genesis) [p. 603.] shall come, and bring gold and frankencence. And with that of the Prophet David. The Kinges of the Arabians and of Saba shall bring gifts. And againe, unto him shall they give of the gold of Arabia. 327 Fifth section Englished. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Sixth section Englished. 6. Moreover they presented unto Christ the gifts of golde, frankencence, and myrrhe, because Arabia abounded in these things especially, and gloryed therein. Also the Queene of Saba, whome authors do write to have bene of the stocke and familie of these Magi, bestowed the like giftes, namely golde and spices (unto which shee added precious stones) upon King Solomon as being a figure and type of Christe. Againe those giftes which Abraham in the 37. of Genesis is said to have given to the sonnes of Cethura, Epiphanius writeth (according to the tradi tion of the Hebrewes) to have bene garments, golde, and myrrhe. Lastly, they did it not so much to foUow the manner of their nation and the examples of their fore fathers, but also for a mysticaU reason sake. For this that they beleeve with their hearts, they protest with their giftes ; they offer frankencence to God, myrrhe to a man, and gold to a King. And they provide themselves such giftes, that when they worship one, they declare to the world that they beleeve at one time in three distinct per sons ; seeing they honour the Kingly person with golde, the humane with myrrhe, and the divine with franken- Seventh section Englished. [p. 604.J cence. 7. After Christes ascension they were more fuUy in structed by St. Thomas the Apostle in the. faith of Christ, and also baptized, yea (which is more,) they were ordained Pastors and Doctors, or Bishops of the people amongst whome they lived, and brought a great company of Gen tiles to the worship of Christian rehgion ; and even as a plentifuU harvest doth foUow the first fruits : so the faith of an inumerable multitude of people, as it were most abundant corne, followed the Magi that were the first fruites of the beleevers of the Gentiles; and thus the prophecie of David is fulfilled, who after he had pro- phecied, The Kings of the Arabians and of Saba shaU bring giftes, by and by hee addeth, And all Kings shall worship him, and aU nations shaU serve him. Also, all nations which thou hast made, shall come and worship before thee O Lord, and shall glorifie thy name. 328 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE 8. After that in their old age they had departed out of Eighth section this life, their bodies being brought first to Constanti- Englished. hople by the meanes of the Empresse Helena, then to Milan by Eustorgius, Bishop of that Citie, at last in the yeare after the incarnation of Christ 1164. being trans lated therhence to this city in the time of Reinolds Arch bishop thereof, together with the bodies of the holy Martyrs Saint Felix and Nabor, they were reposed in this place. But to the end that the Martyrs might by an even number be accompanied with the three Magi, and that a triple corde of Saintes might bee double-twisted together, it hapned even by the providence of the Al mighty, that by the meanes of Bruno Archbishop of this City, a third Martyr should bee added to the former two, to wit Gregory a Priest of Spoletum, that suffered martyr dome under the persecution of Dioclesian and Maximi- nian. Since which time Colen began to be no lesse famous for the reliques of these three Kings & of other Saints, than Jerusalem was for Stephen, Rome for Peter and Paul, or Spaine for James, or France for Martine and Hilarie. 9. Let us acknowledge in the Magi that were the Ninth section worshippers of Christ, the first fruits of our caUing, & Englished. faith, & let us adore him being omnipotent in the heavens, whom they worshipped being an infant in his cradle. They found him wrapped with little base clowtes, they saw him lying in a hard manger, or lulled in the lappe of his poore mother ; yet those Barbarians that were as yet utterly ignorant of true piety and faith, being nothing offended with these things, fell downe and worshipped him. Let us then, that are citizens of the Kingdome of [p. 605.] Heaven imitate these Barbarians at the least : & whereas we have knowne the majestie of Christ, his power, ad mirable actes, and the mysteries of Christian faith, let us confirme our faith by their example. Therefore seeing that in the Catholike Church, which is the true Bethleem or the house of bread, the same body of Christ being wrapped with outward signes as it were with swathing 3Z9 -Psal. 72. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES bandes, is placed, consecrated, offered, taken, or any other way represented unto us : let us be stirred up in minde, and tremble, & bring with us both piety of minde, and reverence of body, as it beseemeth those that participate so great mysteries. Let neither the waves of our thoughts, nor the deceitfull judgement of our senses a jote trouble us, neither let the tales of Heretikes any thing move us. But let the word of God assure us in this point. Since then he himselfe hath said, This is my Body ; let us be touched with no manner of doubt, but beleeve and perceive the same with the eies of our understanding, and upon our bended knees devoutly worship it. The prayer of the Church. The Verse. The Kings of Tarsis, and of the' lies shall bring presents. The Ans. The Kings of the Arabians and of Saba shall bring gifts. There hapned a thing unto me presendy after I had written out these memorable matters of the three Kings and the three Martyrs, that yeelded unto me a kind of recompence for my long labour of writing. For one of AkindCanon. the Canons of the Church that stoode neare unto me when I had almost ended my writing, supposing that I was a stranger, and observing that I loved antiquities, invited me [p. 606.] with a kinde of courteous and civiU importunity to his house, though we never saw each other before, and enter tained me with much variety of good cheare. Thus much concerning the Monument of the three Kings. N one litde ChappeU of the same Church, this is written over the Tombe-stone of one of their Suf fragans. Laurentius Fabricius Urdingensis S.T.D. Episcopus Cyren. Suffraganeus Coloniensis, obiit xxii. Julii anno CI3. I3. C. R. I. P. 330 I OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE Neere unto this there is a very faire monument of Other Alabaster erected to the honor of one of their Arch- monuments. bishops, where I reade this brief Epitaph. Walramus Dux Juliacensis Archiepiscopus Coloniensis. In another little chappell are two ancient monuments of two Bishops more, whereof the one is of Fredericus Comes de Sorverden Archiepiscopus Coloniensis, and St. Rein- oldus Archiepiscopus Coloniensis, qui 3 Reges a Medio- lano Coloniam attulit. In the one side of the Church without the Quire lyeth the bodie of the Earle Arnspurgensis, who bestowed his Earledome upon the Archbishoprick of Colen. Upon one of the yron gates that belongeth to the ChappeU where the Archbishop Reinoldus lyeth, there is a table hanged up with a little yron chaine, wherein this religious and holy stuffe forsooth is written, which I have thought good to set downe in this place for a notable . , b , br , . . , r . e -i t% • ^ An example example or the grosse superstition and vanity or the Papists 0fpat,ist in this citie of Colen. superstition. De indulgentiis promerendis in celebratione missae, quae [p. 607.] decantatur quotidie in capella Beatae Marias Virginis, Metropolitanas Ecclesiae Coloniensi concessis. Anno Domini. 1454. Sub Archiepiscopo Theodorico. Omnibus & singulis Christi fidelibus, contritis & con- fessis, qui hujus missae celebrationi & decantationi pras- sentes fuerint, & flexis poplitibus devote Pater noster cum Ave Maria tribus vicibus legerint, de omnipotentis Dei misericordia & Beatorum Petri & Pauli Apostolorum ejus meritis et authoritate confisi, quadraginta dierum indul- gentias de injunctis iis posnitentiis miserecorditer in Domino relaxamus. Oratio de beata. Maria Virgine contra pestem. Obsecro te clementissime Deus, qui vitas ac mortis ordinariam habes potestatem, per intercessionem genitricis Virginis Marias, pestilentias plagam miseratus a nobis 331 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES averte: ut in tua viventes pietate, fonte vitas perennis, corde, voce, atque omni operatione laudemus per Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen. I observed a faire monument erected over an yron dore at the entrance of the east end of the quire, very richly gilted with many curious borders. And in the middle of Epitaph of the same I read this ensuing Epitaph written in golden Archbishop letters. Adolphus. . . . Quis sit sarcophago quasris spectator in istor Hac plebeius humo non requiescit homo. Hic Archipraesul Princepsque elector Adolphus, Schawenburgiacum stemma decusque cubat. Imperii vigor & clarissima gloria sacri, Agrippinensis mitra verenda soli : Religionis amans & propugnator avitae, Delicias populi, nobilitatis amor. In terram dignus nunquam fuit iUe reverti, Si non unde satus quisque recedat homo. Terra suam refovet terram ceu sedula mater, Ad ccelestem anima est dia reversa patrem. Tantisper dum reddatur tibi spiritus ipse, [p. 608.] Corpus humo natum triste recumbis humo. Christus enim corpus terras revocabit ab alvo, Spiritui & reddet cui fuit ante datum. In spe coelestis recubas hic divite vitas O pater, 6 placida. pace potire pater. Pace potire Pater toto memorabilis aevo, Virtutum specimen pace potire pater. Afterward I entred into the Quire it selfe : Where I observed three faire monuments of their Archbishops, whereof the first is of the foresaid Adolphus, whose epitaph I have already written. Fie is buried on the left side of His sepulchre, the quire. His sepulchre is a very sumptuous peece of Worke. For there his statue is made at length in alabaster, being represented leaning upon one of his armes together with his episcopall roabes. AU that part of the monument both above and beneath the statue, is richly decked with 332 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE faire workes and borders, images and pillars which consist partly of alabaster, and partly of touchstone. About the foote of the monument this epitaph is written. Reverendissimo Domino D. Adolpho Archiepo. ac Principi Electori Coloniensi, S. Rom. Impii per Italiam ArchicanceUario, legatoque nato, Westphaliae & Angariae Duci, &c. ex iUustri familia, Comitum a. Schawen- burg oriundo, electo die xxiiii. Januarii Anno M. D. Xlvii. qui pie & pru- denter Archiepiscopatui prasfuit annis ix menses ii. dies xxv. tandemque ultimum diem in Domino clausit. anno M. D. lvi. die xx. Septembris. Right opposite unto this monument is the second, being The second erected on the right hand. This also is a very sumptuous monument. peece of workemanship. For it is advanced to a goodly heigth and garnished with his image contrived at length in alabaster in his magnificall roabes. Likewise the [p. 609.] Workes, pillars, and images being composed all of alabaster, are correspondent to those of the opposite monument as much as may be. The epitaph is this. Reverendissimo Domino D. Antonio electo ac con- firmato Principi Electori Coloniensi, S. S. Imperii Per Italiam Archcancellario, Legatoque nato, Westphaliae & Angariae Duci, ex iUustri fami lia, Comitum a, Schawenburg oriundo, electo Anno M D. lvi. die xxvi. Octobris, qui fratri succedens, in Domino obdormivit. An. m.d. Iviii die xviii Junii, atque preventus morte, fratri justum monumentum erigere non potuit uti cceperat. Reverendissimus Dominus D. Gebhardus electus Archiepiscopus Princeps Elector Coloniensis Dominis & affinibus suis charissimis pietatis ergo posuit. An. 1501. The third is of one of their Princes called Gulielmus de 333 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Genepe. An ancient thing, his image being made in Alabaster upon the tombe. But no Epitaph saving a few words in prose written about the foure corners of the monument. Having now ended my discourse of the notable monu ments of the Cathedrall Church, I will speake next of the Bishopric of Bishopricke before I proceed any further, as being an Cologne. adjUnct to the Church. The first Apostle of the Ubians was S. Maternus, as I have before written, who was the first Bishop of this Citie of Colen. But who was their first Archbishop I cannot find. It appeareth that it was a very ancient Archbishopricke, because Euphrates that was deposed for his Arrianisme at the CounceU holden at Colen in the yeare 348. (as I have before written) was in those daies stiled with the title of an Archbishop. Yet Munster writeth that the Archbishopricke began a long time after, about the Yeare 755. in the time of Charles the Great; being translated hither from the City of Utricht, which was about that time grievously wasted by the Danes & [p. 610.] Normanes. The titles of the Archbishop do appeare by those Epitaphes that I have before written. Therefore it is superfluous to make any more mention of them. Duchy of Onely I will add a briefe note of his title of the Dutchie Westphalia. Qf Westphalia and Angrivaria. This title is of good anti quity. For the Archbishop that lived in the time of the Emperour Frediricke Barbarossa, by certaine meanes attained to the Dutchie of Westphalia about some 400 yeares since, which dignity the Elector Prince hath ever since enjoyed to this day. Of the three spirituaU Elector Princes this Archbishop is the middle, being next to the Moguntine, and before the Trevirian. His diocesse did in former times extend it selfe very farre. For five other great Bishopricks were subject to his jurisdiction, namely that of Munster in Westphalia, Utricht, and of Liege in the Netherlands, of Minda and Osnaburg in Saxonie. The present Archbishop doth most commonly make his resi dence at a Palace he hath in the country, and very seldome in the Citie. His religion together with that of Colen and 334 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE all the other townes in his territory, is Romish. Yet I have read of two worthy Archbishops of this sea that Two were so much addicted to the reformed religion, that they Archbishops of meant to have rooted Popery out of their dominions, and ReeiJ^m in steed thereof to have planted the true religion of Christ. But their religious and godly endevors did not take effect. The first of these was Flermannus Comes a Weda, who having sent for Philip Melanthon and Martin Bucer in the yeare 1543 to employ their ministery in reforming the Churches of his Electorate, was shortly after deposed, and dispossessed of his Archbishopricke both by the Pope and the Emperour, the foresaid Adolphus, whose Epitaph I have before written, being substituted in his roome. The second was Gebhardus Truccessius, unto whom the like disaster hapned, to the hindering of his godly designe- ment, as to the first. Here will I obiter give a little glance at a matter which is a kind of appendix unto this discourse [p. 61 1.] of the Bishopricke of Colen. After I had something survayed that long tract betwixt the Cities of Basil and Colen, whereof some part I had travelled by land, and had otherwise passed by another part upon the Rhene ; and withall had observed so many goodly Cities endowed with Bishopricks on that left side of the river, no lesse then sixe, namely Basil (for that was once a Bishopricke though it be not now) Strasbourg, Spira, Wormes, Mentz, & Colen ; and could not heare of any on the adverse side of the Rhene : by and by I entered into a serious consideration how it came to passe that there were planted so many Bishopricks on one side of the river, & none at all on the other. But at last I searched out the cause which was this. For that the Cities on the left side being subject first to the Romanes, and afterward to the Frenchmen, were by them sooner converted to Christianity, then the Germane Cities on the right side. For Gallia being converted by S. Denis (as I have before written) one of the disciples of S. Paul, gave occasion of the speedier conversion of these Cities also, in regard they were subject to the kingdome of France after the time of the Romanes. 335 Bishoprics on the left bank of the Rhine only. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES After this I visited three other Churches, which next to the Cathedrall are accounted both the famousest and ancientest of all Colen. These are S. Ursulaes, the Mac- chabees, and S. Gereons. But first I went to S. Ursulaes, because she was my countrywoman. For shee was a Brittane borne, the name of England being unknowne in History ofS. her time. Here I will take occasion to relate some short Ursula. history of her, by way of an introduction to my discourse of the monuments of the Church. There was in Brittaine a most Christian King caUed Dionet, who was the father of this Lady Ursula, the fame of whose vertues extended it selfe so farre that a certaine King (his name I can not [p. 612.] mention) hearing of the same, resolved to marry her to his onely sonne, who sent Ambassadors to her father with strict commandement that they should not returne without her. But the king was much afflicted to consider that his daughter being brought up in the faith of Christ, should be married to an Infidell. And therefore was unwiUing to give his consent to the marriage. Howbeit by a certaine revelation from God, he was required to grant the king his request, but with this condition, that his sonne should be baptized, and that he should give unto his daughter eleven thousand Virgins, to the end that she might convert them to the Christian religion : which being granted, and she having converted them all to the faith, a little after sailed into France with a prosperous wind, and from thence to Colen, where she with her husband and aU her company Martyrdom of 0f Virgins suffred martyrdome for the faith of Christ, in the yeare 238. being aU put to the mercilesse dint of the sword by certaine Barbarians,- and heathenish Moores that did at that time inhabite this Citie of Colen. The bones of them being afterward gathered together were brought unto this place, and laid in this Church which is dedicated to S. Ursula the principall Captaine of the whole company. Since which time they have been very religiously kept in the same place. Many yeares after which, this Lady Ursula with the rest of the eleven thousand Virgins was canonized by the Church of Rome for a Saint : the sixe 336 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE and twentieth day of October being consecrated to their memory, as it appeareth by our ordinary Calendars printed amongst us. Having now made some historical narration of this Lady Ursula, I will descend to the relation of some particular matters that I observed in this Church whereof Church ofS. I now speake, dedicated unto her. Here I saw a great Ursula. many monuments. For here I told five & thirtie great stony sepulchres of great height, breadth, & length. Amongst the rest I saw the tombe of S. Ursula herselfe with her image erected at one end of it, and it is inclosed round about with a grate of yron which none of the rest [p. 613.] have. Also this together with all the rest hath a candle- sticke infixed into it ; and the pictures of many Queenes with crownes upon their heads are represented upon the sides of the monuments. Belike they were slaine here by the Moores at the same time that S. Ursula was. The skuU of S. Ursula with two more is placed in the quire at the top of the high altar, being put in a case or covering of gold, but they are never shewed but upon speciall daies. Saint Ursulaes head is placed in the middest of the three : aU which have certaine yron latteises made before them. The bones of these virginaU Martyrs are kept in severall Bones of the places, partly in the Church of the Macchabees, and partly martyrs. in the Church of S. Ursula. But here is the greatest part of them, being distributed into divers places of the Church. For as soone as I entred it, I observed them first in that part of the church which is without the body, where on three sides of the same part of the Church, their bones lie in great heaps together. Under them are placed their skuls, aU which are covered over with a sleight kind of covering. But in the bodie of the Church I observed a farre greater multitude of these mortifying objects. There also they are divided into three parts that inclose the bodie. And their skuls with the like coverings are laid under them. Likewise many images of them are erected in divers places. At one end of the Church there is a certaine frame made in the forme of a cupboord that containeth their skuls onely, that are covered with coverings like to c. c. 11 337 y CORYAT'S CRUDITIES the rest before mentioned, which I saw through a frame of glasse that is placed before them. Againe all the upper parte of the quire round about are filled up with their bones, the skuls being placed under them, whereof most have blacke taffata cases that are distinguished with little spangels, which yeeld a shew like twinkling starres in the firmament. At the west end of the Church I saw a cer- [p. 614.] taine secrete roome with an yron dore and strong barres to it, wherein are kept many religious and ancient reliques, which are shewed but upon some speciaU festivaU dayes. Superstition of Truely these Colonians are no more to be condemned for the Papists, attributing that adoration and worship unto these dumbe bones and rotten skuUes, which is properly and only due to the invisible God creator of heaven and earth, who wiU be served in spirit and truth, and not with such blinde devotions that are seisoned with the leven of superstition : no more I say, are they to be condemned for these things, then for their superstitious prayers which I have observed written in some of their Churches. EspeciaUy in this Church of St. Ursula, whereof foure I wrote out, and brought them home with me into England, which I have here thought good to communicate to the reader, as weU as the rest. Hoping that they wiU be so farre from cor rupting any good christian that shaU reade them, that they wil rather the more confirme him in the true rehgion of Christ, by observing the grosse vanities of the Papists. The first was this, which I saw written in a certaine table hanged upon one of the piUars. Prayers to the De Beatissima. virgine Maria. Haec est praeclarum vas paracleti Spiritus sancti, haec est gloriosa civitas Dei. Hasc est mulier virtutis, quae * con trivit caput Serpentis. Hasc est sole speciosior, luna pulchrior, aurora rutilantior, stellis praeclarior. Hanc pec- catores devote adeamus, rea pectora tundamus, dicentes. * This is a most impious and blasphemous speech. For it was not the Virgin Mary that brused the head of the Serpent, but only Jesus Christ the son of God. 33» OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE Sancta Maria, Sancta Maria, clemens pia Domina nostra, fac nos tuis precibus consortes ccelestis glorias. Versus. In omni tribulatione & angustia. nostra succurre nobis beatissima Virgo Maria. Oremus. Famulorum tuorum quaesumus Domine delictis ignosce, ut qui tibi placere de actibus nostris non valeamus, geni- tricis filii tui Domini Dei nostri intercessione salvemur : Per eundem Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen. Here foUoweth a second prayer to the [p. 615.] Virgin Mary. O Domina mea Sancta Maria, me in tuam benedictam A second fidem, ac singularem custodiam, & in sinum misericordiae prayer to the tuae hodie & quotidie, & in hora exitus mei, & animam ir&n' & corpus meum tibi commendo : omnem spem meam & consolationem meam, omnes angustias & miserias meas, vitam & finem vitas meas tibi committo. Et per tuam sanctissimam intercessionem & perpetua merita, omnia mea dirigantur & disponantur opera secundum tuam tuique filii voluntatem. Amen. In another side of the Church I read this prayer, printed in a prety little table hanged up at one of their candlesticks together with other tables written in Dutch. Oratio studiosi ad Sanctam Ursulam. Ego me & parentes & consanguineos meos, omnesque A prayer to mihi bene faventes, tuae intercessioni 6 Sancta Ursula S. Ursula. commendo. Et rogo per virginitatem tuam ut nobis fortitudinem in resistendis daemonum insidiis, constantiam in adversitatibus, prudentiam in actionibus nostris, con silium in rebus dubiis, mihi foslicem progressum in studiis meis a. Domino nostra Jesu Christo impetrare digneris ; tuaque sanctissima intercessione nos delictorum catena constrictos solvere, ac salutaria corpori ac animo per nobilissimum sanguinem tuum, quem pro Christi amore effundere non perhorruisti, quaeso expostulare non inter- 339 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES mittas : & adolescenti qui in honorem tuum hanc oratiun- culam composuit, mihique in omnibus adversitatibus succerrere digneris. Amen. Under the prayer this is written with a pen. 1607. x7- Mensis Aprilis. Church of the Next I went to the Church of the Maccabees, in which Maccabees. they report the Bones of that holy mother of the Macca bees and her seven sonnes doe lye, that were with such most horrible and exquisite tortures punished by King Antiochus before the incarnation of Christ, as it appeareth at large in the seventh chapter of the second booke of the Maccabees, where it is mentioned that the seven sonnes [p. 616.] together with their mother had their tongues and the Martyrdom of utmost parts of their bodies cut off by the commande- theMaccabees. ment of King Antiochus, their skinne puUed over their heads with their haire ; and lastly were fryed in a frying pan, only because they would eate no swines flesh. Cer tainely this monument is very memorable, and worthy to be seene by a curious traveller, if a man were sure that these were the true bones of them. For truly for my owne part I will confesse, I love to see these kind of things as much as any man living, especiaUy when I am perswaded that there is no delusion. But indeed there is so great uncertainty in these PapisticaU reliques, that a man cannot certainly tell which are true, and which are false. Over the dore as I entred the Court that leadeth to the Church, I observed the image of the mother and her seven sonnes boyled in a cauldron, with the flames of fire under it, and beneath the image this inscription is written. Salomona vocor cocta sartagine, Cum liberis litor ignis aspergine, Agens mcestissimum Deiparae typum. Under another image also in the same front, this is written. Unda Rheni rosea fit sanguinis madore, Corpora Virginea hk ensis stant in ore, Dat Praesul Reinoldus Maccabeis sedem. 34° OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE Againe, over the dore at the entrance of the Church it selfe, I read these two verses written in golden letters upon a ground of azure. Area Virgineo prius hic imbuta cruore, Nunc Macabeorum corpora sacra tegit. In the quire of the Church is the Monument of the Monument to mother and her seven sonnes behinde the high Altar, theMaccabees. whose bones and skuUes (they say) are kept in the same. The monument is made of wainscot, at the top whereof the image of King Antiochus is erected with Solomona and her seven sonnes, but one of the images of the seven is broken. Upon one side of the monument I read this [p. 617.] inscription in golden letters. Diva Solomona cum septem suis filiis Maccabeis in hac area, continetur. In another side this. Antiochus Rex septem fratres Macca- beos & matrem eorum martyrio interemit. Round about the Quire of the Church these sentences are written in golden letters. In one place this. O quam fragrantia hic redolent Martyrum opobalsama. Next this. O quam purpurei hic spirant Virginum flores. In another place this. Hic certe sunt candidis Lilia rosis mista. In another place this. Et prata spiritalibus vernantia gem- mis. Hic vides serta quibus Dominus coronatur. In another place this. Ut in penitissimo pectoris tui recessu. Last this. Vivus tibi semper atque caelestis ignis exaestuet 6 Colonia. Againe about the body of the Church this is written. Christo par decus atque habeat hoc Paracletus idem. Maxima dehinc sacro dabitur reverentia cultu Reliquiis divum ccelitibusque piis. Ecce Panomphaso dicata hasc sacra Tonanti, Sacra profecto asdes sanguine tincta sacro. Ecce triumphales arcus superumque triumphos, Aptaque virgineo pulchra trophaea choro. Victor adest Christus, victrix est Ursula virgo, Et Macabaeorum palma decora Ducum. 34i CORYAT'S CRUDITIES In another place this. Hic Sanctis optata quies, optataque Tempe, Qui quondam herboso hoc procubuere solo. Hi ccelo, terras, pelago dominantur et auras, Et summum norunt conciliare Deum. Non igitur talis toto thesaurus in orbe, Exuperans Craesi divitiasque Mydas. In another part of the Church under the historicaU Pictures of St. Ursula and other Virgins that were Mar tyred with her, this is written. Ursulanarum virginum stragem hic pie et sincere o viator venerator. In another place this. Sacrum earundem sanguinem hoc Magdalenas [p. 6 1 8.] quondam* infusum saceUo reverenter colunto. In an other place this. Insigne hoc Pugilum Christi polyan- Many relics, drium puro corde exosculantor. Also I observed an exceeding multitude of the Virgins bones laid within cer taine yron lattises round about the Quire, and the body of the Church ; and under them are erected their images represented a little beneath their breast, and fairely gilt. Lastly, I visited the temple of Saint Gereon, a holy man that was martyred in this city, in the tenth persecu tion of the primitive church under the Emperour Dio- clesian. Over the dore whereof at the first entrance this is written in golden letters. Templum Sanctorum. Gereonis sociorumque ejuss ccc. xviii. Thebeorum Mar tyrum & Gregorii, sociorumque ejus ccc. lx. Maurorum Martyrum. Tombs of the Tn this Temple I saw many Tombes of Thebean Mar tyrs that were martyred with Saint Gereon, and of the Moores that suffered martyrdome with Saint Gregory. These tombes are in the body of the Church : seven in a Tombe, eight, ten in a Tombe, &c. with the pictures of them in the outside, whose bodies are inclosed in the * By this I gather that the holy Virgins were slaine in this very place where the Church now standeth. 342 Thebean martyrs. OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE inside. Also there is one very great stony Tombe in a lowe vault or crypta, under the entrance of the Quire, and at the entry of the same vault there is an yron grate. In this Tombe lyeth the body of Saint Gereon, and many more of the Thebean Martyrs. In the same vault there is a taper alwaies burning. Also round about the Quire the whole history of his martyrdome and his associats is written in Latine in ancient cloth of Arras. And towards the end of the Quire the bones and skuUes of the same Martyrs are inclosed within a frame of glasse on both sides of the Quire, their skuUes being covered with pretty silken cases as those of the Virgins in the Church of Saint Ursula and the Macchabees. In the middest of each of these bones is the head of a blacke Moore placed, [p. 619. J made as farre as his breast, whereof the one representeth Saint Gregory ; whom the other, I know not. The histories of sacred and religious matters being ended, I will now descend to -civill and secular matters: and wiU make mention of their Praetorium or Senate house, which they commonly call the Rathausz. Cer- TheRathhaus. tainly the outward workmanship of it is a thing of such gorgeous magnificence and admirable state that I preferre it both for the front, and for most of the outward worke, before any Senate house that ever I saw either in my owne country, or abroad : only the Praetorium of Padua ex cepted, which is commonly esteemed the fairest of Chris tendome. This of Colen is of a most lofty heigth, which maketh it seen a farre off, wholy composed of very ele gant stone, & most exceUently beautified with great store of faire images ; also the curious workes in stone, the pinnacles, and other exquisite devices together with the delicate white toppe, doe yeeld a most pompous shewe. Hard by this goodly building which seemeth to be of some antiquitie, is lately erected another portly edifice as part of the Senate house, which doth marvailously adorne it. For besides other ornaments it hath a faire galery, and a fine walke beneath. The edge whereof is beauti fied with rich marble pillars, whose bases are exactly 343 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES wrought with many artificiaU borders. Also to adde the more grace to the worke the pillers of the top are at both endes gilted. Moreover there is another thing which doth exceedingly garnish this beautifull structure. For whereas there are three severall fronts belonging to this building, each of them is decked with memorable histories touching the antiquities of this renowned city, which indeed doe worthily iUustrate the place. In the fairest front of aU, these two histories. First this. M. Vipsanio L. F. Agrippae, qui Octavii Imp. Aug. [p. 620.J gener ejus in Pontif. ac Trib. pot, imperioque CoUega factus & successor ab eo delectus, Senatum populumque Ubiorum trans fl. Rhenum in hanc citeriorem ripam traduxit, urbemque hanc auspicato opportunissimoque a. primis fundamentis loco condidit ; mosnibusque firmissimis cinxit, atque variis publicis operibus et iUustribus monumentis ornavit.Cos. S.P.Q.Agripinensis post tot saecula fundatori suo grati. Next this. But betwixt these two inscriptions there is a golden Lyon carved in stone, together with a certaine valiant Champion, who clapping his cloake about his arme, did very couragiously thrust his hand into his mouth, & slue the Lyon. History of the Therefore before I write the nexte inscription I will \im Mg ^ere adde a passing memorable history, which I have both heard in the Citie, and read in Munster, touching the man that slue the Lyon ; which indeed is as worthy the reading as any thing I have written in my whole booke. It hapned about the yeare of our Lord 1260. that there was great dissention betwixt the Archbishop of Colen and the City : at what time it chanced also that two of the Canons of the Cathedrall Church that favored the Bishops faction, had a certaine Lyons whelpe, which they fed and brought up for the honour of the Bishop. Now whereas the said Canons bare a great spite and malice to the Consul of the city whose name was Hermannus Gryn, they invited him 344 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE one day very kindly to dinner under colour of friendship, and when he came to their house, shewed him this young Lyon, whome they kept hungry without meate some two or three daies before, and so forced him unawares and fearing no such matter, to approach neerer to the Lyons denne then it was fitte for him. Presently after this the Canons conveighed themselves out of the roome, and hav- [p. 621.] ing shut the dore waited without, still expecting when the Lyon would devoure the man. But the Consul being a man of a notable courage and stout spirit, when he sawe that he was by the treachery of these lewd Prelates brought to these extremes, either to be devoured by that mercilesse and fierce beast, or to fight manfully for his life, did put on a valiant resolution, verifying that speech of Virgil, *Audentes fortuna juvat Clapped his cloake about his left hand which he boldly thrust into the Lions mouth as he came gaping towards him, & with his right hand slue him, & so finally by this meanes escaped free from danger. Afterward he sent Officers for the two Canons with commandement to apprehend them, and to see them incontinently hanged. Which was accordingly performed. Having now men tioned this remarkable history of this valiant Colonian Champion (the like whereof I never read or heard of, saving Sampson, Daniel the Prophet, King David, Benaiah one of Davids three Worthies, Captaine Lysma- chus in the time of Alexander the Great, and one of our English Kinges Richard the first surnamed Cor de Lyon) I will now at length after so long an introduction adde the second inscription which is this. Flavio Valerio Constantino Max. Aug. P. F. Constantii F. Imp. invicto quod ad immortalitatem Imperii R. gloriam ac limitis summam utilitatem et ornatum factu difficilem lapideum pontem in * ^Enei. 9. 345 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES perpetuum exercitui cum liberet adversus Francos ne in Galliam transirent. ipse heic utramque Rheni ripam Agrippinensem quippe Franci- Conjungendo muniens imposito quasi flumini in [camque hostes jugo construxerit S. P. Q. Agrippinensis. In another front that looketh towardes the East these two histories are written. [p. 622.J First this. Inscriptions C. Julio Cass. on the East Quod Ubiorum Principes, Senatum, civitatemque eorum front. Transrhenanam Amplam atque florentem finitima Sueorum gente longe maxima Germanorumque omnium beUicosis- sima injuriis belbi et obsidione pressam in amicitiam fidemque S. P. Q. R. receperit, et exercitu Romano p geminatos pontes Sublicios a. se perquam celeriter con- fectos, ex Treviris trans Rhenum in Ubios Cn. Pompeio et M. Crasso Cos. traductos liberarit, Senatus populusque Ubiorum, Next this. C. Octavii Cass. Imp. P. P. Augusti iEternss memoriae. Ob Principes, Senatum, populumque Ubiorum ejus aus- piciis ex vetere transrhenana. sede in hanc citeriorem Rheni ripam per M. Agrippam generum, orbe terra, marique pacato fosliciter traductos Senatus Populusque Ubiorum. In the westerne front these two histories are written. First this. Imp. Caesari F. L. Justinian P. F. Aug. 346 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE Gratias testandae apud Foederatos Quiritibus Agrippinen- ses preclaris olim juris Italici propter perpetuam in Rom. Imperium fidem beneficiis donatos, ideis fortissimus religiosissimusque Imp. Uni verso etiam legum corpore ad amplio- rem justitiae reique publicas toti us orbis reformandas cultum a. se renovato, consignarit. S. P. Q. Agripp. Next this. [p. 623.J Imp. Cass. Maximiliano Austrio Ferd. f. Philippi N. Maximiliani. Pronep. Frid. Abnep. Augusti Caroli v. Imp. Genera Cum Otto primus Cognomento Magnus Imp. Germaniae insigniores Civitates ac Coloniensem imprimis liberas fecisset, & qui eum sequuti sunt antiquis conservandis, novis insuper privilegiis earn ornarint auxerintve. Tu vero potentissime Imp. omnium anteriorum Cassarea authoritate plenissime ea confirmaveris, pacem publi- camque quietem patriae pater difficillimo rerum statu paraveris, ea propter gratae mentis instinctum numini majestatique tuae cujus stirps longa antiquaque Impp. serie consurgit, et invicta virtus sola pietate superata est. S. P. Q. Agripp. hanc tabulam aere publico devotus col- locari jussit. CIO. 10. Lxxii. Under these histories round about the three fronts, the heades of the twelve first Romane Emperours to Domi- tian, are carved with their titles round about them written in gold. The lower part of this Praetorium is adorned Lower part of with seven very beautifull arches, whereof five are made in one rowe, and two at the sides. At the toppe of the front, even in the middle of the same, the image of justice is advanced in milke- white stone, with a sword in one hand & a payre of scales in an other. At the ends of the toppe the armes of the city are curiously presented, viz : the Lyon and the Griphin, and betwixt them their scutchin, 347 the Rathhaus. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES University of Cologne. [p. 624.] Deutz. which is a golden helmet. At the toppe of aU, the Em perours armes the blacke spread eagle is erected, adorned with a golden Crowne, in regard the citie is imperiaU. Now I will make some short mention of their Univer sitie. For there is an Universitie in this citie: which was instituted in the yeare 1388. under Pope Urban. It consisteth of three Colledges, whereof I saw the ancientest, and the Jesuites Colledge. But they are but meane buildings in comparison of the noble CoUedges of our famous English Universities. I observed a pretty towne on the other side of the Rhene called Teusch, which though I was not at it, but onely saw it afarre off, I wiU mention for two most memorable matters that I have heard and read of it. The one is, that it is reported to have bene first inhabited by ancient Tuisco otherwise caUed Teuto (whom I have before mentioned) the sonne of the Patriarch Noah by his wife Arezia ; who being sent by his father into these parts of Europe, made his residence in the same place, which is said to derive his denomination of Teusch from this Teuto. Howbeit, I wiU not confidently avouch this to be true, though I depend upon the authority of a suffi cient author Sebastian Munster. Otherwise I wiU not avouch it. The other, that there was an ancient castell built in that place by the Emperour Constantine, where there lay a garrison of souldiers for the defence of the Citie of Colen. I am the sooner induced to beleeve this, because it is verified by the testimony of Philip Melan- thon, who writeth that there was a table found once in an ancient Monastery of Teuch, wherein there was an inscrip tion that confirmed this matter. I cannot write of any famous battels that have bene fought neere this Citie, as I have done before of those by Basil, Strasbourg, and Mentz: because I have neither heard nor read of any. Onely I can say that it was once much blemished by Attila King of the Hunnes, and a long time after that by the Normanes in the time of the Emperour Lotharius the second, who did much ecUpse 348 OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE the glory of it, and defaced many goodly buildings at the same time that they sacked the towne of Bonna, as I have before written. But in steed of writing of worthy battels, I will mention two famous wights that once lived in this [p- 625.] citie, who by their excellent Martial discipline and re nowned victories, will be eternized in Chronicles of fame tiU the end of the world. The one was Ulpius Trajan that puissant Spaniard and the fourteenth Romane Em- Two famous peroiir, who being adopted by Cocceius Nerva to succeed v,arnors- him in the Empire, was sent for to this citie of Colen, where he was then Captaine or Lieutenant of a Romane legion. The other was the victorious warrier and glorious conquerour of the Saracens Carolus Martellus (of whom I have before made mention in my notes of S. Denis) who after the death of his father Pipin was imprisoned in this citie, being a yong man, by the meanes of his stepmother Woldruda. But being by the mercifull providence of God afterward released, he became the most fortunate and valiant Martialist that was then in all the world. Now were it expedient that I should make some rela tion of their magistrates & government. But I hope thou wilt pardon me, although I cannot satisfie thee in those affaires of policy. I would have thee consider that I made my abode in Colen but two daies. During which space I hope thou wilt say I was not idle. Here at the conclusion of this history of Colen I will briefly mention one notable thing that I saw in this citie, besides all the rest before mentioned. It was my chance to see the picture of our famous English Jesuite Henry Henry ^ Garnet, publikely exposed to sale in a place of the citie, ?™*ts with other things. Whose head was represented in that miraculous figure imprinted in a straw, as our English Papists have often reported. A matter that I perceive is very highly honoured by divers Papists beyond the seas. Though I thinke the truth of it is such, that it may be well ranked amongst the merry tales of Poggius the Florentine. Thus much of Colen. 349 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES English fellow- travellers. [p. 626.] T Departed from Colen in a boate downe the Rhene A upon a Wednesday being the one and twentieth of September, about two of the clocke in the afternoone, after I had made my aboade there two daies, and came to a certaine solitary house nine miles beyond it, situate by the river side, about eight of the clocke at night, being accompanied with foure English men whose names were Peter Sage, and James Tower Londoners, William Tassell a Cambridgeshire man. These three had bene at Franck ford Mart. The fourth was one Richard Savage a Cheshire man, that came then from the University of Minychen in Bavaria ; where he had spent some time in studie. The two later of these foure proceeded in their journey with me till we came to Flushing the farthest towne of Zealand, where I was imbarked for England, & there we parted companie. Also there was another in out boate, whose company I enjoied all the way betwixt Mentz and Colen, that ministred great deUght unto me with his elegant learning. His name was Christopher Hagk, borne in Koningsperg the Metropolitan citie of Prussia, and a famous University. Also he was the sonne and heire of the high Consul of the citie. A sociable & pleasant Gentleman, and one that had bene a traveUer for the space of a dozen yeares in the famousest regions of Christendome, as Germany, France, Italy, England, Den- marke, Poland, &c. I departed from the foresaid solitary house about three of the clocke in the morning the two and twentieth of September being Thursday, and came to the town of Rees in Cleveland about seven of the clocke at night. This dayes journey consisted of thirty miles. The first Dusseldorf. towne that I came unto was Dysseldorp a faire towne of Cleve-land, situate hard by the Rhene, which is famous for two things, the one a magnificent Palace belonging to [p. 627.] the Duke : the other the residence of the Dukes Court here. I am sorry that I can speake so little of this Palace. For I tarryed but a quarter of an houre upon the shore, which shortnesse of time affoorded me no more leisure 35° OBSERVATIONS OF DUSSELDORF Duke of Cleveland. then to survay after a superficiall manner some parts of the outside only. Yet as little as I viewed it, I observed it to be the most sumptuous building of any dweUing house that I saw in all the Netherlands. This Palace hath one singular commodity belonging to it. For a part of the Rhene is finely conveighed under it by certaine con venient vaults made for the same purpose. The Duke of this place is a Prince of great power and authority. For his titles are these : Duke of Juliers and Cleve-land, and Count of Ravensperg, and Ravestein. The greatest part of these Dukes have been buried in the Colledge Church of this towne of Dysseldorp, where I understand they are honered both with sumptuous monuments and elegant epitaphs. The religion or the * present Prince is Romish : he married the daughter of the Duke of Lorraine. I heard in the country that he wanted one principall thing to grace his Princely titles and ample dominions. For it was generally reported that he had not that pregnancy of capacitie as others have. A little without the towne wall I saw a certaine instrument that is very frequently used in these parts, called a crane, which serveth for the draw ing up of vessels and such other things of any weighty burden, to the land from out of boates. I doe therefore name this instrument, because it was the most beautifull of that kinde that I saw in al Germanie. When we were a few miles past beyond this towne, we glanced by the towne of Duysburg situate in Cleve-land, also hard by the Rhene. This towne is famous for con taining the bones of that worthy man Gerardus Mercator borne in a towne in Flanders called Rupelmunda, who by the universall suffrage of all the learned is esteemed the most excellent cosmographer & mathematician (Ortelius [p- 628.] only excepted) that hath flourished in the world these thousand yeares. For he hath written such exact and elegant geographical tables as will never suffer his name to be committed to oblivion. Betwixt Duysburg and the towne of Rhene Barke I * I meane the same Prince that was thenjalive when I was there. 35 1 A beautiful crane. Gerardus Mercatorburied at Duisburg. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES observed the lamentable tokens of the Belgicke warres three Churches very miserably battered and sacked, which was done by the souldiers of the Grave Maurice. About a mile before I came to Rhene-Barke I saw a certaine tower Dinslaken. in the towne of Dinslaking in the Province of Cleve-land, the walles whereof are said to be of such an exceeding thicknesse that no peece of Ordinance is able to pierce it, but it will reverberate the buUet, be it never so great. For I heard it very credibly reported that they are eighteene foote thicke. When I came to Rhene-Barke, which is a towne belonging to the Archduke Albert, and guarded by a garrison of his souldiers, there hapned this accident; our whole companie was stayed from passing any farther by certaine officers for the space of two houres, to our great terror and amazement, in so much that we could not be suffered to depart tiU we had been aU convened before the Governor of the towne, who was a Spanish Gentleman, a man that used us more graciously than we expected. For after a few termes of examination he gently dismissed us. Here I saw one of their towers most grievously battered with shot, and many of their other buildings, which was done about a dozen yeares since by the Grave Maurices souldiers. I heard most tragicaU Two newes of two Englishmen in this towne. For it was Englishmen reported unto me, that whereas two of them went into the killed. field to fight, the one being slaine by the other, he that killed his fellow was condemned by the Governor to receive this punishment ; to be shot to death by a dozen of his countrymen. And to be first tyed to a post or some such thing with a paper pinned upon his breast, having a blacke marke in the middle. So this was ac cordingly performed. But the offendour was so stout hearted a fellow, that his countrymen were constrained to discharge two or three voUeys of shot at him before they could throughly dispatch him. After we were gone from Rhene-Barke, we passed by the faire City of under Wesel, in Latin inferior Wesalia, which is so called for distinction sake, betwixt this and the 352 [p. 629.J Wesel. OBSERVATIONS OF WrESEL higher Wesel before mentioned, in the Diocesse of the Archbishop of Trevirs. This City is in Cleve-land (which country was in former times inhabited by the ancient Tenctheri mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus) and is esteemed the fairest city of the whole Province, though the City of Cleve be indeed the Capitall, and hath the principall name, in regard the Province hath her denomi nation from the same place ; howbeit, it is reported to be inferior to Wesel. It was not my good hap to goe into it, but only to passe by it, yet I perceived that it yeeldeth a most elegant shew afarre off by meanes of her lofty towers, goodly walles, bulwarkes, and other stately buildings both pubUque and private. It is seated a prety way within the land, and farther from the Rhene then the other Rhenish Cities and Townes are, even about some two furlongs in my conjecture. There is a prety arme of the Rhene derived unto it in a faire channel that maketh a very com modious river called the Lippia, in which there lay a great multitude of ships when I passed by it. For it is a City of great trafficke, and very populous, as I heard. I observed a little beyond Wesel on the same side of the Rhene that Wesel standeth, certaine trenches and rampiers in an open field, where the renowned Grave Maurice made his Rendevous with all his armie about some dozen yeares since, when he battered the towne of Rhene-Barke. About some three miles from Wesel on the other side Saint Truyen. of the Rhene, I saw a faire towne called Saint Truyen, but indeede I could see but a little part of the towne, [p. 630.] saving their principall Church, which seemeth to be a beautifull building. This towne was once built upon a hiU not farre off, but being there wasted and destroyed (for the ancient ruines of it are to be seene to this day) it was afterward built in a plaine, even there where it now standeth. I arrived at the towne of Rees in Cleve-land about Rees. seven of the clocke at night, as I have before said. Of my arrivaU there I will report one memorable thing. cc. 11 353 z CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Whereas the gates of the towne were locked before we came thither, presently after our arrivall we made aU the meanes that might be to be admitted into the towne. But we were absolutely denied it a long time. Where upon we went into one of the ships that lay at the key, determining to take a hard lodging there all night upon the bare boordes. No sooner were we in the ship but I beganne to cheare my companie as well as I could with Consolation consolatorie termes, and pronounced a few verses and out of Virgil. fragments 0f verses out of Virgil, tending to an exhorta tion to patience in calamities, as : * Quicquid erit, superanda omnis fortuna ferendo est. And, § Per varios casus & tot discrimina rerum tendimus in patriam And, £ Dabit Deus his quoque finem. And the same hemistichium that I spake joyfuUie unto my selfe, when with much labour and difficulty I was come to the toppe of the first Alpine mountaine Aigube- lette, as I entred into Savoy : j" forsan & haec olim meminisse juvabit. A sympathetic But at last, the Burgo-master of the towne being touched Burgomaster. wjtn a certaine sympathie of our misery (having himselfe belike at some time tasted of the like bitter pilles of ad verse fortune, according to that memorable speech of Dido in Virgil : [p. 631.] Non ignara mali miseris succurrere disco,) was contented that the gates should be opened to admit us into the towne, but first he sent two souldiers to us with their muskets charged, to the end to examine us what we were, and so after a few termes of examination *Mnd. 5. §iEnei. 2. J Ibid. t Ibid. 354 OBSERVATIONS OF REES Church of Rees. The market they kindly conducted us to our inne, and that to our infinite comfort. For we were all most miserably weather- beaten and very cold, especially I for mine own part, who was almost ready to give up the ghost through cold. But when we came to our inne we were exceedingly refreshed with all things convenient for the comforting of distressed travellers. This towne of Rees belonged to the Duke of Cleve-land, and professeth the Romish religion as he did. It hath but one Church, wherein I observed a wonderfuU multitude of Papistical images & pictures, amongst the rest the images of St. Christopher and St. George of Cappadocia killing the dragon, and another of that royall Virgin the King of ^gypts daughter, whom he freed from the serpent. In the Churchyard I saw an exceeding company of stonie crosses infixed upon the graves of them that have been buried there, in which their names are written, and the yeare of the Lord wherein they died. Which is a custome much observed in many places of the Netherlands. The market place of the towne is very faire, being two hundred sixe and twenty paces long, and P ace' five and fifty broade. For I paced it over. Also the sides of it are adorned with two goodly rowes of bricke buildings, the ends whereof together with the sides are beautified with battlements according to the fashion of the German houses in divers other Cities and Townes, as I have before mentioned. But they use. not halfe so much those kinde of little windowes in the outside of the roofes of their houses, as they doe in the cities of higher Ger many, as I have before spoken. This market place is much graced with a faire towne house that standeth at [p. 632.] the east end. I observed one thing in this towne which I did not in any other towne in all Germanie, though I understand it is very frequently used in many townes of the Netherlands. For all the night a certaine fellow walked about the towne, and once every houre winded a Hours sounded home. The like he did also hourely in the day time, on a horn. and sometimes he sounded a trumpet from a certaine place of the tower of the Church. I heard that this cus- 355 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES tome is continually used in this towne : so that they give a certaine yearlie stipend to a feUow that executeth this office. I made my aboade in Rees all day the three and twentieth of September being Friday, by reason that the weather was so boysterous, and the Rhene so furious, that there was no travelling upon the river without great danger. But the foure and twentieth of September being Saturday I departed therehence about sixe of the clocke Emmerich, in the morning, and came to Emricke a faire towne of Cleve-land sixe miles therehence and situate by the Rhene, about nine of the clocke the same morning. In this towne I saw nothing memorable (for indeede that little time that I spent there I bestowed in the refection of my body, that I had no leisure to walke abroade) and there fore I will let it passe without any farther mention but only the name. I departed therehence about noone the same day, and came about three of the clocke in the after noone to the City of Nimmigen in Gelderland, being nine miles beyond it. This dayes journey was but fifteene miles. In my journey betwixt Emricke and Nimmigen Cleve. I saw the City of Cleve, in Latin Clivium, the Metro politan of Cleve-land, situate afarre off from the Rhene, a prety way up in the country. It seemeth to be a faire City. For it yeeldeth a beautifull shew afarre off. Also I observed one very memorable thing about six miles on this side Nimmigen, a certaine sconce in an island of the Rhene called Skinkel-sconce. I heard that it is esteemed [p. 633.] the strongest sconce of all Europe. It belongeth to the States, and standeth in a certaine little Island which was converted to such an impregnable fortification by the rare invention of a certaine Dutchman whose name was Skinkel, from whome the fort hath his denomination. It hapned that this Skinkel was afterwards drowned in the river Waell neere the city of Nimmigen. The sconce is joyned to the land on one side by a wooden bridge. But now before I begin to write of the city of Nim migen, I will make some mention of the country wherein it standeth. The Latine name is Geldria, but the vulgar 356 OBSERVATIONS OF GELDERLAND Dutch Gelderland; one of the seventeen Provinces of Gelderland the Netherlands, and one of the eight united Provinces that belong to the States. In the East, it is bounded with Cleveland : In the West with Holland & Brabant. In the North with Frisland & a creeke of the German Sea. In the South with the country of Julia. It is said that the whole Province is so plaine, that there is not as much as one hill of any note to be seene in it. Againe, aU this plain is so exceedingly furnished with abundance of wood, that there are few vacant places un wooded. Besides it is esteemed so fertile a Territory, that it bringeth forth all manner of commodities whatsoever, saving wine. For two thinges it is very memorable. For the admirable store of corne that it yeeldeth, and the goodly pastures and Famous meadowes for fatting of Cattel. For the which it is so grazing famous, that sometimes leane cattell are sent hither to meadows. grazing from the farthest confines of Denmarke. Also it is weU watered with these three famous Rivers, the Rhene, the Maze, and the Wael, and so populous that it containeth twenty two walled townes, and three hundred villages. The ancient inhabitants of this country, many yeares before the incarnation of Christ, and after, were called Sicambri, which are mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus : and they were so called either from a Queene called Cambra (as Munster writeth) or rather (as learned Peucer affirmeth) [p. 634.] quasi Sec Cimbri, that is, the Cimbri which dwelt neere the sea. Some are of opinion that the ancient Menapii mentioned by Caesar did once inhabite this Province. But I differ from them. For I take the Menapii to be those that inhabited the Territory about the city of Juliacum com monly called Gulick. My Observations of Nimmigen. THis Citie hath three names, in Latine two, Neomagus Nimeguen. and Noviomagus. But the vulgar name is Nim migen. It is the Metropolitan of Gelderland. And is of that antiquity, that it was built about 582. yeares before 357 street. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES the incarnation of Christ by the ancient Sicambri. It is situate neere the river Wahalis commonly called the WaeU, which is one of the three mouthes of the Rhene wherewith he exonerateth himselfe partly into the Ocean, and partly into the river Meuse. The Emperor Charles the Great was so delighted with the situation of this city that he did often keepe his Imperiall Court here, & built a very magnificent palace in the same, which stood a long time after his death, till the furious Normans invaded the City in the time of the Emperour Lotharius the second, who utterly destroied that palace with many other buildings The market Qf the City. The streets are very faire, especiaUy one amongst the rest, which is the same that leadeth up to the market place from the gate neere the river WaeU at the entrance of the towne. But this streete is very uneven, being a continuall ascent tiU one doth enter the market place. Againe it is much graced with two goodly rowes of beautiful buildings on both sides, being built aU with bricke, and garnished with battlements, according to the LP- 35-J German forme of building, as I have before often men tioned. Their market place is very faire and spacious, paved all with bricke, and adorned with stately buildings on every side. A little beyond their market place is their principal church. You enter a pretty church before you come into the Churchyard, over the gate whereof these two sentences are written in golden letters. Concordia parvae res crescunt, discordia magnae dilabuntur. Which sentence is taken out of Salust. The other Beata Civitas cujus Dominus spes ejus. 1606. The Church. The Church it selfe is a very faire building, and is decked with many beautifull and great tables placed upon the walles in divers partes of the Church, wherein are written sentences of Scripture in golden letters. Also it is beauti fied with a faire paire of Organs which have the blacke Spreadeagle the Emperours armes in it, in regard the Citie 358 OBSERVATIONS OF NIMEGUEN is imperiaU. Hard by the Church there is an ancient & magnificent building, which I think in times past was a religious house. But now I understand it is converted to a schoole. Upon one side whereof towards the Church are tenne buttresses, and in each space betwixt every couple of them is written one of the tenne Commandements aU of them being comprehended in as many Latin verses. Likewise under this schoole there is a roome reserved for the bestowing of munition. The Praetorium or rather The Senate the Stadthouse (for so in all the Cities & townes of the House. Netherlands doe they call a Senate house, the word being compounded of Stadt, which in the Dutch tongue signifieth a towne, and house) is a very ancient & stately place, the front whereof is graced with many faire images. At one side of the towne neere to their key I observed an ancient Castell built with bricke, and invironed with a faire wall. Besides all these ornaments of the City already mentioned, there is one thing more that doth specially grace it. Even a faire front of building at the entrance of the city before [p. 636.] you enter the first gate. Which front or series extendeth it selfe in a goodly length, and ministreth a notable orna ment to that part of the city. The City is subject to the Empire, as I have already said (though indeed at this day it bee principally under the dominion of the States) unto which it payeth the least tribute of any imperiall City A strange whatsoever. For that which they pay is nothing but a tnhute- glove full of gunnepowder that they send once every yeare to the city of Aquisgranum otherwise called Aken, accord ing to an ancient custome that they have observed these many yeares. The religion of the city is wholy Protestant. It is much given to traffique, and inhabited by many wealthy Merchants. When I was in Nimmigen, there was a great garrison of soldiers planted there that consisted of three thousand men of armes, who did continuaUy watch and ward for the defence of the City. Againe this great company was divided into twenty other lesser com panies, whereof each contained one hundred and fifty soldiers, of which three were Englishmen. 359 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES In this city was borne one famous learned man, whom for his great learning sake (though indeed he were an Peter Canisus. Arch-papist) I will name, even Peter Canisius. He was the first Jesuite of Germany, and chosen ProvinciaU of the rest of the German Jesuites by Ignatius Loyola himselfe that Spanish soldier and first founder of the JesuiticaU family. After which time in Rome, Sicilie, and in divers Universities of Germany, especiaUy Ingolstad, hee was publike reader of Divinity, & lastly at Friburg a fayre city of Switzerland, where he died the seventy seventh yeare of his age, and there lieth buried. Thus much of Nimmigen. [p- 637-] T Observed certaine things both in this Citie of Nim- x migen and in other townes of the Netherlands, which I could not perceive in any place of high Germany. For it is their custome in the Innes to place some few peeces of browne bread hard by the guests trencher, and a little white Eatingcustoms loafe or two. In many places also at the beginning of dinner or supper they bring some martlemasse beefe (which custome is used also in some places of the Grisons countrie, as I have before mentioned) and a good pestle of bacon to the table, before they bring any other thing. This I observed at Colen, Rees, and other places : at the ende of the meale they alwaies bring butter. One of their customes I much disliked, that they sit exceeding long at their meales, at the least an howre and halfe. And very seldome do they go to supper before seven of the clocke. In most places betwixt Colen and the farther end of the Netherlands even till I came to Vlyshingen commonly called Flushing the farthest towne of Zealand, I observed that they usually drink beare & not Rhenish wine, as in the higher parts of Germany. For they have no wine in their country. This custome also I observed amongst those of Cleveland, Gelderland, and Holland, that whensoever one drinketh to another, he shaketh his fellow by the hand, and whensoever the men of the country come into an Inne to drink, they use to take a tinnen tankard fuU of 360 in the Netherlands. Drinkinghabits. OBSERVATIONS OF GELDERLAND beere in their hands, and sit by it an howre together, yea sometimes two whole howres before they wiU let their tankards go out of their hands. I departed from Nimmigen about eight of the clocke in the morning the five and twentieth of September being Sunday and came to a faire towne in Holland caUed Gorcom situate by the river WaeU, about sixe of the clock at night. This daies journey was foure and twentie miles. One thing I will here speake of the river Rhene that I have not before mentioned, that whereas he descendeth [p. 638.] prono or secundo cursu in all that long space betwixt the citie of Basil and this river of WaeU, into the which together with two more that I have aheady named, he dischargeth himselfe : all barkes or boates that come downe thus far, do goe very easily, because it is with the streame : which is the reason that aU passengers which descend do pay but a small price for their passage ; but on the con trary side all that ascend doe strive very painfuUy against the streame. So that all their vessels are drawen by Boats drawn horses with great might and maine. For this cause all UP the Rhine passengers that ascend into the higher parts of Germany ^ """"• doe pay much more for their carriage than those that descend. In my journey betwixt Nimmigen and Gorcom I passed by two pretty townes of Gelderland, situate by the river WaeU, whereof the first is called Tiel, which is about Tiel. twelve miles beyond Nimmigen; the second Bommel, Bommel. which is sixe miles beyond Tiel. This Bommel is the farthest frontier towne westward of Gelderland, and memorable for one thing. For I saw a great buUet sticke in the Tower of their Church, even about the toppe, which was shot by the enemy in the yeare 1574. which figures (1574) are subscribed in such great characters under the buUet, that a man may very plainly discerne them afarre off. From Bommel to Gorcom it is sixe miles. Also I observed another towne opposite unto Gorcom on the other side of the river, caUed Worcom. Seeing this towne of Gorcom is in Holland, I will speake 361 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES a little of the country in which it is situate, before I make Country of any more mention of the towne it selfe. This country Holland. was heretofore called Batavia, and the inhabitants Batavi, which are mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus. They were in times past accounted a very sottish & foolish people, even as the Bceetians were amongst the ancient Graecians. But in this age they deserve not to be so esteemed. For .. they are as ingenious both for al manuary arts, and also LP- 39-J for the ingenuous disciplines, as any people whatsoever in all Christendome : which a man that liveth amongst them may easily perceive. The name of Batavia was commonly in use til the yeare of our Lord 860. at what time there hapned such an exceeding inundation as over flowed a great part of the country, and did so scowre and wash the very bowels of the earth, that it hath bene ever since o-ofx(pa>Stis (as a learned author writeth) that is, hoUow and spungie. For which cause the old name of Batavia was afterward changed to HoUand, which is so called quasi hoUow land, or quasi Hol-land. For hoi in the Flemish tongue doth signifie as much as our word hole. My Observations of Gorcom. Gorkum. T Shall doe this towne more wrong then I have done to A any other citie or towne of note in Germany, in which I lay a whole night, and in no other respect but onely in speaking so little of it, concealing the admirable beauty thereof. For I had not the opportunity to survey it throughly according to my desire, because I came late into it, & departed therehence something early the next morn ing. The sweetnesse of the situation, the elegancy of their buildings, the beauty of their streets, and aU things whatsoever in this town, did wonderfuUy delight me, in so much that as soone as I entred into one of the longer streets, me thought I was suddenly arrived in the Thes- salian Tempe, or the Antiochian Daphne. For indeed it is a most elegant and sweet little towne, situate in a plaine, hard by the goodly navigable river WaeU. 362 OBSERVATIONS OF GORKUM And I observed some of their streets to be passing beautifull, both for breadth and length. And they are Streets paved much graced by the fayre bricke pavier. For every streete with brkk- is very delicately paved with bricke, which is composed after that artificiaU manner that a man may walke there [p. 640.] presently after an exceeding shower of raine, and never wet his shooes. The buildings are all of brick, of a goodly heigth, and an excellent uniformity in most of the streets, the toppes rising with battlements. I observed that these kinde of prety buildings are of a just correspondency on both sides of the streets, which doe minister notable beauty to the towne. Their market place is very spacious and neatly paved with bricke like to the streets. At one side whereof there is a faire Stadt-house adorned with a beauti full turret, from the toppe of which I heard it credibly reported by a Gentleman of good note, a man may plainly perceive in a faire day two and twenty goodly walled townes, together with many faire villages and Gentlemens Palaces in the country. At their docke or key which is neare to one of their bridges, I observed a great company of prety ships and barkes also. Another of their dockes hath a faire bricke walke hard by it, without the gate of which walke I observed a certaine wooden image which presenteth the figure of a man as farre as the breast. This image is erected as a marke or bound to the end that no forraine barkes or other vessels may passe beyond it, which is lawfull for those only of the same towne and none else. The religion of the towne is Protestant. For it belongeth to the States. I departed from Gorcom about seven of the clocke in the morning the sixe and twentieth of September being Munday, and came to the towne of Dort twelve miles Dordrecht. beyond it about ten of the clocke the same morning. In this space I observed one speciall thing. On both sides of the river WaeU I saw a great company of little castels or Forts not above halfe an English mile distant asunder, which they call Ridouts, wherein presidiarie souldiers do lie for the defence of the country, fifty persons or there- 363 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES about in each. The like I observed also betwixt Nimmigen and Gorcom. I heard that this was the [p. 641. J occasion of building these Ridouts: because the enemie was wont heretofore, to invade the States territories in the night time, and to take some Gentleman or speciaU man prisoner, and to keepe him captive tiU he ransomed himselfe with a great summe of money. Hereupon for the security of the country, the States thought good to erect these little Ridouts. I observed another thing also betwixt Gorcom and Dort that moved great compassion in Churches me. For I saw many Churches halfe drowned, aU the under water, upper part of the tower appearing very plainly above the water. There were heretofore faire Parishes belonging to these Churches, which were utterly defaced with the mercilesse furie of the angry God Neptune almost two hundred yeares since, as I wil hereafter more particularly declare, so that there is not the least token of them to be seene at this day. Moreover I saw a faire Castell drowned a little on this side Dort, which in former times belonged to a noble man of the country. It was seated in a faire towne, which hapned to be so overwhelmed with water at the same time, that the sea did so loose his raines of liberty to the destruction of the other townes, that there remayneth not the least stone thereof to be seene, saving only a part of the foresaid Castell that doth now belong to the towne of Dort, by which they enjoy certaine priviledges. My Observations of Dort. ^His City in Latin is called Dordracum, but the common word is Dort, and some doe caU it Dordrecht. It is a very famous, opulent, and flourishing towne, and memorable for many things, especiaUy one above the rest Dordrecht the which is worthy the relation. For it is caUed the Mayden "Holland'^ ^-Y °^ Holland, (in which respect it may be as properly r 6 '1 called Parthenopolis, as Naples is in Italie, and Mayden- burg in Saxonie) and that for these two causes. First, because it was built by a Maide, but none of the Citizens could tell me either the name of her, or the yeare of the 364 T OBSERVATIONS OF DORDRECHT Lord when the foundation was laid. Neither indeede can Dordrecht I finde it in any historian that hath written of the Holland- ^".f4 % a ish Cities. But certaine it is that a Virgin was the first founder of it. For a monument whereof they have pictured a beautifuU Virgin in lively colours according to the full proportion of her body, over the gate neare to their haven at the first entrance into the towne. Which picture is adorned round about with the armes of the principall families of Holland. Besides, for a farther testi mony of this matter they use to stampe the figure of a maide upon one of their coynes that is called a Doit, whereof eight goe to a Stiver, and ten Stivers do make our English shiUing. Secondly, because almighty God hath priviledged this towne with such a speciall favour and prerogative, as no City or Towne that I ever read or heard of in aU Christendome, saving only Venice. For it was never conquered, though all the circumjacent Cities and townes of the whole territorie of Holland have at some time or other beene expugned by the hostile force. The situation of it is very pleasant. For it standeth in a prety island being invironed round about with foure rivers Situation of that make a confluent, which are the Mosa, the WaeU, Dordrecht. the Linga, and the Merva; according to a prety distich that I have read of the same rivers, which is : Me Mosa, & Wahalis, cum Linga, Mervaque cingunt, aeternam Batavae Virginis ecce fidem. But if I should relate how it came to passe that this plot of ground was first converted to an island, *Quis talia fando Myrmidonum Dolopumve, aut duri miles Ulysses Temperet a, lachrymis? For indeede it is a most lamentable and tragicall matter to [p. 643.] be spoken, and such a thing as cannot but move great commiseration. For whereas a part of it was ever joyned to the maine territorie of Brabant, till the yeare of our Lord 1420. it hapned that these foure foresaid rivers *^Enei. 2, 365 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Brabant inundated by the sea A.D. 1420. Mint built by the Earl of Leicester. [p. 644.] together with a part of the sea, did that very yeare upon the seventeenth day of April breake up their repagula, their bounds within the which they did ever soberly containe themselves till then, and made such a wofuil inundation in the country, that I never read of the like in Christendome since the generall cataclysme in the time of the Patriarch Noah. For they overwhelmed sixteene faire Townes : some write there were no lesse then three score and ten of them drowned. And they swallowed up at the least a hundred thousand persons with al their goods, cattels, and whatsoever else. The pittifuU tokens whereof I saw in divers places of the country thereabout, namely certaine towers of Churches appearing above the waters, which belonged to those Parishes that were frequently inhabited with people till the time of that deluge. The buildings of this Towne, both publique and private, sacred and civill are very beautifull, being built aU with bricke, and garnished with those kind of pretie battle ments that are so much used in the Batavian Cities. Their streets also are of a notable length and breadth, in number many, and paved with bricke as those of Gorcom. Besides other publike buildings of the towne I visited their mint, which was built by our famous Earle of Leicester, at the front whereof the Emperours armes are erected : above the which this word is written in golden letters, Moneta. And againe under that, Divo Carolo 5. Cassari. Likewise there are eight Latine sentences written upon the front : foure on the one side of the armes, and as many on the other. This is the first. Pax & tranquiUa libertas. The second, Nomen pacis duke est. The third, Pecunia vincere speciosum non est. The fourth, Pecunia mater belli. The foure on the other side are these. The first, Paci semper est consul endum. The second, Pace sublata leges esse non possunt. The third, Omnia pecunia effici possunt. The fourth and the last, Pecunia effectrix multarum voluptatum. After this I sawe a beautifull 366 OBSERVATIONS OF DORDRECHT Palace called the Doole, which was likewise built by the The Palace. Earle of Leicester: it is a very magnificent building, in which the Grave Maurice his Excellencie doth use to lie whensoever he is commorant in Dort. Also there is an other faire house wherin his Excellencie doth sometimes repose himselfe, which is the signe of the Peacocke. In that place lay Marquesse Spinola the General of the Arch dukes Armie, when he came thither from the Hage, a little before my comming to Dort. Their Stadt-house is a very faire building of a goodly height, and built all with square stone, which is rare to bee seene in Dort. There are foure Churches in the towne, whereof two belong to the Citizens ; of which one is the fairest of them all, a building that seemeth to be of great antiquitie, but adorned with no worthy Monuments or Antiquities : onely it hath faire Tables hanged upon divers Pillars, wherein are written sentences of holy Scripture, like to those that I sawe in the great Church at Nimmigen. The third Church belongeth to the Englishmen, the fourth to the French. Out of those foure Rivers that inviron the Many r'wers Towne round about, and make it an Hand, there are some '* " '* pretie armes derived into the Towne, which doe make certaine inferiour rivers that are very commodious to the inhabitants. Over one of them that runneth through the middle of the towne, there are many pretie Bridges, but two especially very faire. Whereof one is of Timber, the fairest woodden Bridge that I saw in Germany, saving that of Heidelberg. For it is so broad that three Cartes may [p. 645.J passe joyntly together over it. On both sides of this bridge there lyeth great abundance of shippes. The other is of stone, the edges whereof are finely rayled with yron rayles contrived in curious workes. For traffique I have heard that this towne doth more Flourishing flourish then any town of all Holland, saving famous tra"c- Amsterdam. And the Merchants of the towne are said to be very wealthy. For heere is the principle Staple of •Holland for all manner of Wines, especially the noble Rhenish Wine, from whence it is afterward transported 367 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES into divers remote regions, as to England, &c. But the greatest part of it being first sophisticated in Dort with their &c. confections. Manuary The manuary trades of al sorts in this towne are com- trades. mended for excellent. It was garded with five companies of presidiary soldiers when I was there, whereof one was English. For the Leager (this is the name of the States armie which doth use in the time of warres to lie abroad in the fieldes) was dissolved when I was in Holland, by reason that there was a truce betwixt the Archduke and the States, and it was distributed into many severall com panies that were planted abroad in divers cities and townes for the common safety of the country. What excellent men for the ornaments of learning this towne hath bred I doe not remember, saving one whose Gulielmus name was Gulielmus Lindanus, who flourished about some Lmdanus. fortv veares since. A man in his kinde very famous, though indeed a Papist. In this towne of Dort he was borne, but he spent the greatest part of his life afterward in Ruremunda a City of Gelderland, whereof he was bishop. This man also hath commended his name to posterity by his manifold workes, especiaUy theologicall, as other learned men whome I have named in my description of , some of the German Cities. LP- 4 -J Having now related some of the principall thinges of this noble towne, I wiU conclude my observations thereof, partly with mention of their religion, which is the Pro testant. For Popery is cleane exterminated out of the towne ; and partly with that memorable elogium that is commonly attributed unto it by aU those that know it well, that it is the very Garden of Holland. Thus much of Dort. FRom this towne I once resolved to have directed my journey to a certaine memorable place not farre there hence that I might have communicated one notable thing wcnrep ev Trpoo-QqKijs fxipei, by way of over-plus, to my friends & country as well as the rest, yea such a thing, as is the 368 OBSERVATIONS OF LAUDUN most monstrous and prodigious matter that was in any place of the whole world since the creation thereof. But my resolution was hindered by a certaine sinister chance. Yet I wiU make some relation of the matter as I have not only heard, but also read it in a good author. Though surely I feare least many will deeme it a meere exorbitant digression to write of those things either by reading or report which doe not fall within the compasse of my travels. There is a Monument extant in a certaine Mon astery called Laudun neere the famous university of Monastery of Leyden in HoUand, where a certaine Countesse called Laudun. Margarite was buried, who was the wife of one Hermannus Earle of Henneberg, the daughter of Florentius the fourth of that name, Earle of Holland and Zeland, and the sister of William King of the Romanes. This Countesse hapned to be delivered of three hundred sixty five children at one burden about three hundred and fourteene yeares since, even just as many as there are daies in the yeare. AU which, after they were baptized by one Guido Suf- [p. 647.J fragan of Utrecht, the males by the names of Johns, & the females by the names of Elizabeths, died that very day that they came into the world : and were buried all together in one monument in the Church of the foresaid Monastery of Laudun, which is to this day shewed (as I have heard many worthy travellers report that were the eie witnesses of the matter) with a most memorable Latine inscription upon it, together with two brasen basons wherin aU those infants were baptized. This strange history wiU seeme incredible (I suppose) to al readers. But it is so absolutely and undoubtedly true as nothing in the world more. The occasion of which miraculous and stupendious accident I will here set downe (seeing I A miraculous have proceeded thus farre in the narration of a thing that amdent- I have not seene) because it may confirme the stronger belief in the reader. It hapned that a poore woman came a begging to the foresaid Countesse Margarite, bearing a twinne of young babes in her armes. But the Countesse was so farre from having any commiseration upon her, c. c. 11 369 2 A CORYAT'S CRUDITIES that she rather scornefully rejected her, affirming that it was not possible shee should have those two children by one man. The poore soule being much vexed in spirit through these injurious words of the Lady, pronounced A bitter such a bitter imprecation upon her, that she wished that imprecation. God would shew a miracle upon the Lady, as weU for a due revenge upon her that had so slandered her, as for the testifying of her unspotted honesty & chastity; she wished, I say, that God would shew this miracle, that the Lady might bring forth as many children at one burden as there are daies in the yeere ; which indeed came to passe, according as I have before mentioned. For the Ladie in the fortieth yeare of her age was dehvered of just so many upon a Saturday about nine of the clocke in the morning, in the yeare of our Lord 1276. The truth of this most portentous miracle is confirmed not so much by that [p. 648.] inscription written in a certaine table upon her tombe, as by sundry ancient Chronicles of infaUible certainty both manuscript and printed. Pardon me I beseech thee (curteous reader) for this my boldnesse in reporting matters that were beyond the limits of my travels. Notwith standing I have thought good to mention it in this place for a matter beyond all comparison remarkable of that kinde that ever was in the world, being induced to the commemoration of this history for these causes. First, because I heard very frequent speeches of it in the towne of Dort which I have last described, partly by Enghshmen, and partly by other strangers. Secondly, because the fame of it had invited mee to have seen the place, if one disastrous impediment had not crossed me. Thirdly, because I am perswaded this history was never before written in our English tongue, tiU the History of the Netherlands was set forth in English since my arrivaU in England from beyond the Seas, by that worthy traveUer and thrise-worthy serjeant at Armes unto our Kinges most excellent Majesty, and most faithfull attendant quondam upon the right Worshipful Sir Edward PhiUips lately the most illustrious speaker of the Parliament house, and now 37o OBSERVATIONS OF HOLLAND Maister of the Rolles viz : Maister Edward Grimston. Wherefore after this long digression I will now returne againe to the discourse of my following travels. I departed from Dort towards Zeland in a barke the seven & twentieth of September being Tuesday about noone, and lay the same night in a hard lodging of my barke upon the water, about fortie miles beyond it : in this space I observed these things. I sawe a goodly Towne caUed Zirixee, in Latine Zirzasa, situate in an Hand whose name is Scowen, on the right hand of my journey : this Towne is commended for a beautifull place. But nothing whatsoever hath so much graced it as the birth of that admirable sweete SchoUer, that worthy ornament of learn- [p- 649-] ing Levinus Lemnius a Physition, who hath purchased Lev'mus both himselfe and his Countrey eternitie of praise by his tmnm- elegant Booke De occultis naturae miraculis, and other exceUent fruites of his ripe wit that are commonly read in the world to the great benefit of the learned. In the same Hand where Zirixee standeth, there is an other faire Towne called Brewers Haven, and a Sconce called Bominee, belonging to the States. On the other side of the river, right opposite to Zeland, I observed two Hands more, whereof the one is called Tarnous, the other Targous. But before I came towards those Hands, I passed by a part of Brabant where Bergenopzome standeth a little within the Hand, which is said to be a very strong Towne that belongeth to the States. Also I observed in this journey A pitiful a great many high Towers in the water, which were here- "Sht- torore Parish churches, and belonged to some of those Parishes that I have before spoken off, which were drowned in the yeare 1420. I observed a speciaU thing in one side of the river as we passed forward in our journey. Many Boores of the country laide a great deale of strawe and earth uppon it at the edge of the banke, to the ende to preserve the banke, that the water may not eate and devoure the earth, and consequently breake into the land to drowne it, as it hath done heretofore in many other places thereabout. 37i CORYAT'S CRUDITIES I departed from the foresaid place where I lay aU night upon the water, about seven of the clocke in the morning the eight and twentieth of September beeing Wednesday, and came to a haven towne of Zeland called Armu, about sixe of the clocke at night. This daies journey was nine miles. The inhabitants of this Island were in former times caUed Mattiaci, which are mentioned by Cornelius Tacitus. As for the Island it selfe wherein this Towne, Middle- borough, and Flushing stand, it is commonly called [p. 6 5 o.J Walcheren. In this towne of Armu I sawe nothing memorable but their Stadt-house. For it is but a Utde towne. Yet it is famous for one thing. For there al the Ships that come from Dort do arrive, as in a safe station, & therehence many a great fleete doth often launch forth into the Ocean Sea. I departed from this towne of Armu about seven of the clocke in the morning the nine and twentieth of September Flushing. being thursday and Michaelmas day, & came to VUssingen commonly called Flushing, a famous haven Towne of this Island Zeland, about two of the clocke in the afternoone. This dayes journey was but five little miles. In my journey betwixt Armu and VUssingen I passed through the beautifuU Citie of Middleborough in Zeland, which is about a mile beyond Armu. But I cannot write the tenth part of it that this notable Citie deserveth. For I employed those fewe houres that I spent in the city otherwise than in matters of observation. Yet that little which I did observe I wiU relate. For I wiU not do this goodly Citie that wrong as to write so copiously of many other Cities, and nothing at aU of her. Middleburg. Middleborough hath her denomination from a Noble Roman Consul called MeteUus, who is said to have bene the first founder of it. For some do caU it in Latin Metelburgum quasi Metelliburgum, that is, the towne of MeteUus. It is strongly waUed, beautified with faire gates, goodly streets, and very stately buildings of bricke like to those of the townes of Holland. Their Market place also I observed to be a fayre and spacious thing, and 372 OBSERVATIONS OF MIDDLEBURG was exceedingly frequented with people the same day that I was there. Likewise their Stadt-house is a very ancient Notable and beautifuU building, built all of free stone (which I buildings. observed to be as rare in Middelborough as I did before in Dort) and the front adorned with many goodly images that yeeld a delicate shew. I sawe their exchange also, which [p. 651.] is a very elegant little place, distinguished with faire walkes, neere to the which there is a pleasant grove. I visited likewise the house of our English Merchants, which is a faire building, having delicate gardens and walkes belonging to it. And I went to their fayrest Church, which is graced with a curious clocke, and with two monu ments of great fame. But it was not my hap to see eyther of them. Whereof the one was of William Earle of William Earl HoUand and Zeland, and afterward King of the Romanes, °f Holland who being slaine by the Frisians about nine yeares after an eaana the beginning of his reigne, in the yeare one thousand two hundred fifty five, his bones were solemnly buryed in this Church about seven and twenty yeares after his death. The other is of that rare Schollar and learned Writer Adrianus Junius, who is famous for many notable workes that hee left behinde him as the true monuments of his pregnant witte, especially his ample Dictionary consisting of Greeke & Latine words. I observed also their Haven, which is a very convenient place, and was the receptacle of many goodly shippes when I was there. Their rehgion is Protestant, answerable to that which the reformed Churches of England and Holland doe professe. Thus much of Middelborough. My Observations of Vlyshingen commonly called [p- 652-] Flushing, but in Latin Flissinga. THe situation of this towne is very memorable. For Situation of it is built in the forme of a pitcher, which is slender Flushing. at both the endes, and wide in the middle. In regard whereof the name of the towne is derived from the Dutch 373 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Flushing in form of a pitcher. A notable harbour. TheStadthaus. [P- 653-] Flushing garrisoned by the English. word Flessche, which signifieth a pitcher. For indeed he that shaU rightly consider the forme of the building thereof, will say that it doth very neare represent the fashion of a pitcher. For I for mine owne part observed the site of it, and found it very correspondent to the mould of a pitcher, the endes being slender and the middle long. Which is the reason that the inhabitants doe pre sent the figure of a pitcher in their flagges & banners that are advanced at the tops of the mastes in their ships. The towne is not great : yet very faire, and beautified with many stately buildings, that are made aU of bricke, according to the rest of the Zelandish and HoUandish cities. It is inhabited with many rich Merchants that have within these fewe yeares very much inriched themselves by .the art of navigation. Their haven is very strong, and it is a notable harbour of goodly ships. For I can say more of Flushing then of any other haven towne that I saw in my travels : that their haven contained such an exceeding multitude of ships, as I could not see the like in Venice it selfe, the Arsenall only excepted. For I heard that all those that I saw at Flushing were in number at the least two hundred. Their Stadthouse, that was newly building when I was there, is like to be a very magnificent worke. The front being raised to a notable heigth, and adorned with many faire armes, scutchins, and other curious devices that doe exceedingly beautifie the same. Here I sawe those birds called Storkes that I have before mentioned in my observa tions of Fountaine Beleau. This towne is garded with a garrison of EngUsh Souldiers, whereof one (who was a Gentleman) I saw very martiaUy buried that day that I came into Flushing, with a dolefull beating of many drummes, and discharging of many volleys of shot. All the companies of souldiers in this towne are commanded by that right worshipfuU and most worthy Knight Sir WiUiam Browne, who is Deputie Governour of this towne under that right honourable and illustrious Robert Sidney Viscount Lisle. 374 OBSERVATIONS OF FLUSHING I received a very special courtesie in this towne both of the foresaid noble Knight, and of a certaine learned, godly, and religious Minister Mr. Pots, who is the Preacher of the towne (for it professeth the Protestant religion also as weU as Middleborough) for the which they have perpetu ally bound me unto them in aU officious respects of due observance tiU I cease to enjoy this common vital breath. Therefore tandem aliquando, with this thankfuU com memoration of their names (since I have not as yet any other meanes to express my gratitude towards them, but only by this remembrance of them in my booke) I here adde ultimam coronidem, the fuU period and finall con clusion to my outlandish observations. I made my aboade in Flushing aU Friday being the last day of September, and departed therehence in a barke the first day of October being Saturday, about foure of the clocke in the afternoone, and arrived at the custome house Arrival in in London the third day of October being Munday, about London. foure of the clocke in the afternoone, after I had enjoyed a very pleasant and prosperous gale of winde all the way betwixt Flushing and London. The distance betwixt Flushing and London is a hundred and twentie miles. The number of Miles betwixt Venice and Flushing : in [p. 654.J which account I name only some of the principall Cities, as I have done before in the computation of the miles Number of betwixte my native Parish of Odcombe and Venice. For ^/^ it is needlesse to name all the particular miles betwixt all p/ujaj„g the cities and townes I passed through. Because it would be a repetition of that which I have alreadie done. Imprimis, betwixt Venice and the Inne before mentioned Total of the upon the toppe of the Mountaine Ancone, otherwise called "hole journey. Montane de St. Marco, being the farthest bound of the Venetian Signiorie Westward, . . • • ^74 Item, betwixt the Inne, and the City of Curia in Rhetia 76 375 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Item, betwixt Curia and Zurich the Metropolitan City of Switzerland. . . . • • SS Item, betwixt Zurich and Basil. .... 40 Item, betwixt Basil and Strasbourg. ... 80 Item, betwixt Strasbourg and Heidelberg. . 72 Item, betwixt Heidelberg and Franckford. . 67 Item, betwixt Franckford and Colen. . . 92 Item, betwixt Colen and Nimmigen in Gelderland. 54 Item, betwixt Nimmigin and Dort in HoUand. 34 Item, betwixt Dort and Flushing in Zeland. . 53 The totaU is .... 797 Againe betwixt Flushing and London. . .120 Againe, betwixt London and Odcombe. . . 106 The totaU betwixt Venice and Odcombe. . . 1023 The totaU betwixt Odcombe and Venice as I travelled over France is (as I have before written) ....... 952 The totaU of my whole journey forth and backe . 1975 [p. 655.] HPHe Cities that I saw in the space of these five x Moneths, are five and forty. Whereof in France five. In Savoy one. In Italie thirteene. In Rhetia one. In Hel vetia three. In some parts of high Germanie fifteene. In the Netherlands seven. FINIS. 376 POSTHUMA FRAGMENTA POEMATUM GEORGII CORYATI SARISBURIENSIS, Sacrm Theologize Baccalaurei, Quondam e sociis Novi CoUegii in inclyta Academia Oxoniensi, Ac postea Ecclesiae Odcombiensis in agro Somer- setensi Ministri, ubi tandem Anno 1606. extremum vitas diem clausit. LoNDINI, Anno Domini 161 1. Serenissimo Principi Henrico Christiani Orbis Tito, id est, humani generis Deliciis, Principi Walliae, Duci Cornubiae ac Rothsaiae, Comiti Palatino Cestria?, Equiti splendidissimi ordinis aureae periscelidis, &c. On sum nescius (Serenissime Princeps) nonnuUos mihi objecturos, supervacaneum ac to dtrpoaSiowcrov opus me jam suscipere, observationibus meis in regionibus exoticis ista posthuma poematum Patris mei frag- menta quae jam subsequntur, attexendo ; nee deerunt fortasse aliqui nimis rigidi censores, qui mordaculis suis sannis nomen meum per- stringere atque sugillare non dubitabunt. Proinde Celsi- tudini tuae rationes explicabo quibus fretus poemata ista in medium proferre, & ex Cimmeriis illis tenebris quibus multos annos latitarunt, in lucem edere mihi visum est. Primo, quoniam pater meus piae memoriae Georgius Coryatus paulo ante obitum suum de carminibus, quae in juventute sua (Musis faventibus ac propitia Minerva) contexuit, mecum coUoqui subinde solitus est, rogavitque, ut (si illi superstiti esse Divum pater atque hominum rex mihi indulgenter concederet) pauca poemata sua quae penes me fuisse animadvertebat, tandem aliquando e situ vetustatis eruerem, praeloque mandarem. Secundo, quia plurimi mei cpiXofiovtrol amici, tum consanguinei, tum ramiliares congerrones, qui patrem meum, (dum com munis hujus lucis usura fruebatur) medullitus amarunt, 379 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS & jam fato defunctum nomen ejus gratissima quadam recordatione commemorare solent, instanter precibus suis me identidem sollicitarunt, ut posthuma ejus poemata typis excudi curarem. Quare cum patris voluntati, tum amicorum postulatis morem gerens, Juvenilia ejus Celsitudini tuas dedicare una cum itinerario meo ausus sum, Celsitudinemque tuam humiUime oro ut sub Serenissimi nominis tui auspiciis ista qualiacunque poemata in vulgus emanare patiatur. Nee elogia quibus patris mei memoriam cohonestarunt atque illustrarunt duo celeberrimi scriptores, quorum unus in Germania natus erat, alter in patria mea Anglia, jam tacebo. Hic nimirum Jacobus Middendorpius in libro quodam quem de totius orbis Academiis conscripsit ; ille autem, scilicet Joannes Casus Medicinae Doctor; & CoUegii Divi Joannis Prascursoris apud Oxonienses quon dam socius, in elegantissimo libro suo quem Speculum Moralium inscripsit, charissimi patris mei nomen hujus- modi verbis citavit. Georgius Coryatus poeta Oxoniensis ita quondam cecinit, & statim uterque ista carmina ejus subjungit. Et duo sunt totum Gymnasia nota per orbem, Oxonium studiis florens, mihi dulcis alumna, Regis opus; tuaque (illustris Rex Cantaber) aedes Magnifice florens sacris Academia Musis. Quae carmina quadraginta plus minus annis elapsis cum plurimis aliis de descriptione Angliae, Scotias, & Hyberniae, Serenissimae Reginae Elizabethas beatae me moriae (jam cum caelicolis in caelesti Hierosolyma vitam angelicam agenti) nuncupavit. Sed ea cum duobus pene millibus versuum quos iv rrj aKfxrj aetatis atque ingenii sui composuit, elegantibus sane ac a viris eruditis non parum laudatis, sive patris incuria, sive temporis injuria partim inter iere ac extincta jacent, partim cariosis chartis adeo tineis edacibus corrosis sepeliuntur, ut omnis mihi spes praecidatur ullam illorum particulam in publicum emittendi. Quae vera jam conquisivi, & in unum quasi 380 THE EPISTLE DEDICATORIE corpus collegi, quum animo patris mei nomen ab oblivione vindicandi hoc susceperim, ut Manes ejus illud* poetae usurpent, Non omnis moriar, multaque pars mei Vitabit Libitinam ; Serenitatem tuam iterum enixissime obsecro, ut contra virulentos Momorum morsus, qui dente Theonino aliorum lucubrationes rodere solent, eadem itrepaa-irl^eiv, ac pro- pi tio tuo patrocinio protegere clementissime dignetur. Celsitudini tuae devotissimus deditissimusque Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis, Peregrinans pedesterrimus. *Hora. Carmin. lib. 3. Od. 30. [Exhortatio ad 381 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Exhortatio ad Serenissimam Angliae Reginam, Dominam Elizabetham, sexto sui regni anno, ut nubat. O Virgo & Princeps, 6 Regis filia, Regis Et soror, 6 Regis Uxor ut esse velis. Te tua forma, decus, virtus, pietasque, fidesque Hoc rogitant, patriae ut perpetiare Patrem. Sic tibi sic poteris, patriae sic utilis esse : Angelice in terris vivere posse rogant. En tibi sic poteris, patriae sic utilis esse Non poteris : patriam prole beare potes. Si potes, ergo velis : Regalem sumito sponsum, Sic tibi, sic patriae consule Virgo tuae. En Daemon satagit, stimulat Caro, Mundus adurit, Sola potes tantis beUigerare malis ? Si modo sola potes, vestram sed respice gentem. Ne miserum Satanas devoret ore gregem. Da deus hanc mentem, da nostra Principe dignum Et regem et Prolem : caetera jam dederas. Tuque tui Princeps regimen sic dirige regni, Ut post hoc regnum coelica regna petas. In effigiem Reginae. >Allas, Juno, Venus, sophia, diademate, forma, Corda, caput, vultus, imbuit, ornat, alit. The English. Pallas, Juno, Venus, with wisedome, Crowne, and comely hewe, Thy heart, head, face, endewes, adornes, And deckes most fine to view. 382 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Allusio ad illud Ovidii MetamorphoseoslScripta in dictum patris Penei ad filiam ad Daphnem. I Eandem. J SMpb pater dixit, Generum mihi filia debes Saepe pater dixit, Debes mihi nata Nepotes. Sic pater Henricus : Generum mihi filia debes, Longaque debetur posteritas Proavis. Nata potes regnare ? potes sine compare vitam Ducere ? & hac rara. dote beata, mori ? Ingenium, doctrina, fides ; huic consona doti Regnum, forma, decus, singula summa tibi. Hisce tuo Patri non es virtutibus impar, Major at ille una est, & minor ipsa Patre. Quod talem Patri licuit te cernere Prolem, Qualis adhuc Natae non datur ulla suae. Sic minor & major, minor es tu, major at ille, Tu minor : hoc partu major at esse potes. Alia allusio ad eandem. DIxerunt olim : Rex & Regina beati. At nunc plebs dicit, Tantum Regina beata. O utinam possent (si sint pia vota) sonare, Sunt cum Prole sua Rex & Regina beati, Tunc essent omnes, simul omni ex parte beati : Patria, Plebs, Princeps, Rex & Regina beati. De novem Uteris Reginas Nominis Elizabeta. Die cur literulas habet Elisabeta novenas ? An Musas quod amet Elisabeta novem ? Est ita, sed ratio subit hac tamen altera major, Te Musas quod ament Elisabeta novem. 3«3 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS ^Enigma ad eandem per eundem. ANglia dicat lo, solenni ex more triumphans, Virgo parit, nobis Elisabeta parit. An tibi quae peperit virgo, peperisse videtur ? Mater sola parit, virgoque nulla parit. Anglica sola suos sentit Respublica foetus, Concipit huic virgo commoda, virgo parit. Prosopopeia ad Portam Palatii Episcopi Wintoni- ensis, ut Regina? aperiatur ad illius ingressum. CLara bipartitas aperito Janua portas, Ut repetat Princeps interiora domus, Mox ea majori fulgebit lumine dives Quam micat Arctoo nobilis Ursa Polo. Ante fuit fcelix multorum nomine Regum, Ut nunc est fcelix non tamen ante fuit. Nam si Marte, fide, doctrina, stemmate, forma Clarior ulla foret, clarior ista foret. O nostri ut fuerit Cordis tam * Janua lata, Intrares tectum (Cor puto dulce) meum. * Iste lepor refertur ad nomen ejus Cor-yate. Posteriori syllaba scilicet yate, idem significance Anglice quod Latine janua. 384 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Pro quinque minis tria verba scripta nomine gratiarum actionis & valedictionis ad eandem per eundem. SI mihi non parcis, non audeo dicere verbum : At mihi parce precor, sed tria verba tibi. NUBE Quod scripsi spero, quod spero postulo, Nube, Sic tibi, sic patriae consule Virgo tuae. VIVE Sic vive ut vivas, sic regnum dirige Princeps, Ut tibi sit proles, quae tua regna regat. VALE Hoc tibi postremum dicetur carmine verbum, Quod peto, quod rogito, quod precor, oro, VALE. De insignibus Angliae ad eandem in Anglian descriptionem per eundem. Hinc Leo & inde Draco parmam qui sustinet, iste Prudentes, validos denotat ille duces. Qui pariter certant Domina sub Principe (cujus Praelucent medio stemmata fixa loco) Sustinuisse humeris Regalia Principis arma, Ingenio iste suo, viribus ille suis. [Praefatio in C C. II 385 2 B GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Praefatio in librum Psalmorum, a Georgio Coryato Latine translatum, ad Serenissimam Angliae Reginam D. Elizabetham de variis carminum generibus. TU Deus atque tui divina potentia verbi Es mihi, Christe etiam, non mihi Papa Petra. Petrus erat Christi tantum firmissima Petra, Et mihi Christe Petra es, & mihi Christe Petrus. Supra vel super hanc sat erit si struxero Petram, Hanc statuit Dominus, noluit esse aliam. Petram Pontifices non hanc statuere, sed altram, ^Edificabo igitur quam potero super hanc Ecclesiam mores, vitam, famamque fidemque Nostram : Christe Petra es, non mihi Papa Petra. Porta cui triplicem gestans in limine mitram Inferni custos praesidet assiduus. Non huic vel duplici circundatus ense nocebit, Praevaleat summi spesque fidesque tui. Adversus Petram hanc sua tendunt retia Papas, Illam sed Dominus proteget usque Petram. Sacrae tuae Majestatis fidelissimus subditus devinctissimusque scholaris Oxoniensis. Georgius Coryatus. Math. TuEs 16. Petrus, Et Supra Hanc PetramiEdificaboEcclesiam Nostram. PortaInferniNon Praevaleat Adversus IUam. 386 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Viridis Draconis Triumphus, in funere clarissimi viri D. Gulielmi Herberti nuper Baronis Car- difiensis, Comitisque Pembruchiensis, & regis Aulas Oeconomi primarii, ad asternam tanti viri memoriam. Spice Penbruchium specie viridante Dra conem Lector, & auratum per colla virentia Torquem, Hamatosque ungues, oculosque, alasque volucres, Immanemque jubam, & formosos cor poris artus. Hunc neque Phryxei custodem velleris olim Colchiacae flevere nurus, neque Mala sororum Servantem Hesperiis Alcides vicit in hortis. Cynthius innumeris fixit Pythona sagittis, Et tua servantem (Gradive) fluenta Draconem Cadmeae fixere manus : Hunc frangere nemo Heroum, Divumve potest : non Aesone natus, Non Jove, non profugas ab Agenore missus in oras. Ipsa ade6 quae cuncta domat, legesque cruentas Imponit rebus Mors implacabilis ortis, Mors ipsa hunc solum superare nee ausa Draconem, Nee potuit ; nam cum terris superesse vetaret, Inseruit coelo : nunc illic fulgidus ardet, Qua micat, & flexu voluentes dividit Ursas, Aut ubi contortis Ophyuchia brachia spiris Implicat, & longos ducit per inania tractus. Solus enim soli didicit parere Leoni. Hunc coluit, Regemque suum patienter adorans Esse tulit : quem nee vis ulla, nex hosticus ensis, Nee Jovis aethereo disjectum fulmen Olympo Fregit adhuc, hunc una sui cultura Leonis Perdomuit, Dominique feros procumbere fecit Ante pedes : fulvum metuunt ita cuncta Leonem. 387 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Sed nee inutilibus coluit tam grande tribunal Obsequiis, ipsique adeo fuit utile tanto Concessisse Duci, cujus tot martia gessit Auspiciis, varias & fortia bella per oras. Capta sub Henrici primum Bullonia ductu Vulgavit rutilis Herberti nomen in armis : Regia quo fulvi mens inclinata Leonis Conspicuo viridem promovit honore Draconem. Protinus & celsum miles conscende cabaUum, Ense caput feriens, auratis (inquit) in armis. Nee minus uxorem praeclari stemmatis Annam Despondet Regina tuam Catharina sororem, Par tibi, par iUi virtus, Par denique nomen. Tres tulit ex ista virides celebresque Dracones (Quot Leo Regalis magnos clarosque Leones) ' Henricum comitem, Eduardumque, Annamque teneUam. Junxit & hos vivens taedis iUustribus omnes. Et nunc cum charis vivunt confortibus omnes, Atque diu multos peragant fceliciter annos. Jam Leo grandaevus vitales deserit auras, Et charum catulis commendat voce Draconem. Inde fuit Regum, Reginarumque per annos Delitiae multos, multo insignitus honore. Octavo Henrico, Eduardo, Marias, Elizabethae, Et patri & natis charissimus omnibus unus. Nam simul Eduardus tener Ule Leunculus Anglis Prodit, ad acceptos aliquid Draco majus honores Addit adhuc, multoque magis prorumpit in altum. Rursus factus Eques magnusque Magister equorum. Quid referam positis tot praelia gesta trophaeis ? Tot spolia ? & ductos civili ex hoste triumphos ? Ut vigili occiduos sedaverit arte tumultus ? Horrendosque suo superarit Marte rebeUes ? Magnum opus, & multo quaesitam sanguine laurum. Hic sese in Gyros, & multa volumina torquens, Terrificis altas quatiens clangoribus alas, Claruit ante alios virtus generosa Draconis. Hinc Baro Cardifios regali munere fasces, 388 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Pembruchiumque Comes titulis adjungit honorem. Proh dolor, Eduardus fato succumbit, & ejus Protinus ad Mariam volvuntur sceptra sororem. Jamque iterum in patriae grassatur viscera ferrum. Evocat innumeros funesta ad bella Viatus, Armatamque manum Londini ad mcenia ducit, Praeficit huic bello, & rebus Regina gerendis (Nam quid agat?) viridem (spes haec fuit una) Draconem. IUe suum partes virus diffundit in omnes, IUe per insanos ruit imperterritus hostes, Confunditque viros, vincitque capitque Viatum. Quin aliud tractans Marias sub nomine bellum, Quintinos forti perrupit milite muros, Contudit & saevos pulchro certamine Francos, Hispanus dum bella gerit : sic scilicet unus Praeripuit cunctis omni in certamine palmam. Nee dextram patulo frustra gerit ore cruentam, Invictus, victorque potens. An segnior idem (Elisabetha) tuos pugnasset miles in hostes, Te nisi pace frui, tua mens, & qui tua servat Regna Deus mallet : sub te quod vincere posset Non habuit, seramque togam te ferre coactus Edidicit regnante senex : neque praelia gessit UUa, nisi extremum hoc saeva cum morte duellum. Quo tamen & victor (quod saepius ante) triumphans, Laetus, ovans, Superum ad ccelestia tecta recessit. Apostrophe ad Illustrissimum Henricum Comitem Penbruchiensem Gulielmi filium. AT tu clare Comes, Comitis clarissime proles, (Henrice) hue flectas oculos, hos perlege versus. Multa patris virtus animo, multusque recurset Ejus honos, maneant infixi pectore vultus. In te certa tui remanent vestigia patris, Os oculosque Patri similes, moresque paternos Egregie reddis : superest ut comprecer unum hoc, Ut patris exemplo discas parere Leoni. 389 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Utque Pater, Patri Placuit, Catulisque Leonis, Hujus ad exemplum sic te componere cures. Quod facis, hoc semper facias : reverere Leonem, Seu Leo, sive Lea est quae nunc regit Elisabetha, Semper erat viridi multum propensa Draconi, Et patris ilia sui dilexit more Draconem, Cujus praeclaro solius munere factus Oeconomos, Custosque Aulae, Columenque Britannas est, Ilia potest juvenem veteri praeferre Draconi. Ilia agat : ilia diu vivat, regnetque Britannis. Atque diu vivat Draco Penbruchiensis eisdem, Et parere Draco, discatque placere Leoni. Tuus humiUimus SaceUanus Georgius Coryatus. The same translated into English by the Author of the former. THe Pembroke Dragon, greene of hue, good reader, here behold, His scaled necke environed with glittering chaine of gold, His hooked clawes, his piercing eyes, his winges prepar'd to flight, His mighty crest, well favoured limmes, and body shaped right. 'Twas not this Dragon whom the dames of Colchos did bewaile, The keeper of the golden Fleece : not Hercules did prevayle Against the same : it was not this which kept the Golden frute In Hespers grove, AppoUos sleight right cunningly did shute, His thousand shafts, which Python pierst : yea Cadmus hand hath slain Thy monstrous Dragon (mighty Mars) which kept Boeotian plain. 39° GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS The Gods themselves, the sonnes of God, no Imps of earthy wight, Not iEsons sonne, not Jove his youth, not Cadmus (put to flight By fathers wrath, Agenors ire) could quaile this Dragons might; No not despightfuU death, even she which cruell lawes doth make Against al things, who al things tames, which shape in earth do take ; Death, death I say durst not presume this Dragons over throw, Ne could it do : for when on earth she bid him not to show, To skies she sent his glistering ghost, twixt both the whirling beares, Or where she wresteth Ophiucus armes, which there appeares. Where as he stretcheth out his limmes nigh to the gentle beast, The Lyon old, whose princely heart foreshineth in his breast. He only hath well learn'd the lore, the only Lyon to obey, That Kingly beast he honoured still, yeelding to him the swey. Whom erst no force could cause to creak, nor dint of enimies swerd, Nor thundering Jove, with fiery flash might force to be afearde, Only the Lyon caus'd to crouche, and fall before his feete : So each thing bowes and bendes unto the Lyon, as is meete. ' » His duties to so hye a throne were not employed in vaine, His loyalty to such a Lord encreased much his gaine, First Bulleine wone, where Henry was, and led the royaU race, Brought Herberts name for warly feates into a worthy place, 39i GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Whereby the Lyons Kingly minde inclined to advance The Dragon greene to higher state, to more triumphant chance, He stoutly strikes him with his sword, Arise my Knight, he saies, Bestride thy horse, use gilded spurres, and weare the like alwaies. And likewise of a noble house, with him to lead his life, O Katherine Queene, thy Sister Anne he doth espouse to wife. In natures giftes a peere to thee, in virtues rare a peere, And Parre by name, a meeter match, I deeme no time did heare. Of her he leaves three Dragons green, three impes of worthy fame, (The Lyon of the princely race, in number left the same) Henry this Earle, and Edward eke with Lady Anne his deere, All which he joinde to worthy mates, whUes that he lived here. And now they live in happy state, each one both man and wife, God graunt them many yeares to live, and lead a joyfuU life. The Lyon old leaveth this ayre, there is no other choyce, And to his yong, this Dragon green, commends with Kingly voice. To kinges & queenes, from time to time, thus was he holden deare, As by the honours he attainde, most plainly doth appeare. To Henry eight, to Edward sixth, and to Elizabeth, The father and the chUdren all, he was beloved till death. For when the little Lyon came (king Edward) to his reigne, In honour more the dragon grew, he had a greater traine ; Made of the noble order Knight, (a Knight so was he twise) And after maister of the Horse : thus did this Dragon rise. Of trophies pight for foughten fields, what should I here recite ? 392 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS The goodly spoiles, the triumphes got of civiU foe by fight ? The Westerne tumults how he quencht, to shew here do I cease, And how those furious rebels were by his force brought to peace. A deed worth praise, a palme not wonne without expence of blood, The Dragons curtesie shineth yet, the ground did feele him good. He cast him there in compasse wise, and folding wreathes he makes, With grisly shrikes his lofty wings amongst those ghests he shakes. For these exploits done in the West, tis knowne every where, Both Baron of CardifFe was he made, & County of Pem brokeshire, O rufull day, King Edward dies, his fatall time is come, And Mary doth possesse the Crowne, his sister hath his roome ; And now anew by Wyats fetch, there gins a civUl broyle, Against the Queene he doth conspire with all his force and toyle. He leadeth forth his rebell route, even unto London wall, The Queene doth make chiefe of this warre, & Captaine generall, The Dragon green. What should she do ? what other hope remaind ? He spits his venim round about, wherewith her foes are stainde. Through thickest of the enemies rout, without feare doth he go, The traytors tremble, he them o'errunnes, and taketh Wyat tho. An other battaile yet he fought under Queene Maries name, S. Quintines walles his soldiers shakt, and got the gole and game. 393 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS And in the field the Frenchmen forst to flee before his face, Whiles Philip war in France doth hold : this dragon had such grace, That in each fight from aU the rest, the palme he stUl did get> And therefore in his open mouth the bloudy hand is set. A Conquerour invincible ; would he have bene more slacke (Elizabeth) to fight for thee, and put thy enemies backe ? But that the God who rules the Realm, & eke thy heavenly minde, Makes thee enjoy a quiet time ? for thee he could not finde Just cause to shew his manly heart. And now well smitte in yeares, He learnes the quiet gowne to d'on, to him no warre appeares : But this last fight with crueU death, to whome he yeeldes not yet ; His worthy Ghost with triumphes joy in starry sky is set. And as in life for good successe, a triumpher he was, So now with glee into the heavens, the Dragons sprite doth passe. The conversion of the Triumph to the right honourable Henry Earle of Pembroke his sonne and heire. BUt thou (my Country Lord) most worthy impe of counties race, Henry my L. reade thou these lines, turne hitherward thy face. An heape of Fathers haughty acts, and honours to thy minde Presents themselves, his countenance in heart do thou fast binde. The perfect signes of Pembrokes blood in thee do full remaine, Thy face, thy eies, thy fathers looks, thy deeds shew his wordes plain. 394 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS One thing my Lord there resteth yet, which I do boldly crave, That fathers lore thy lesson be, t'obey the Lyon brave. And as the Sire pleasde the old, and all the Lyons seede, By his example be thou prest therein eke to proceede. Do as you do, prostrate before the Lyon lay you downe. The Lyon, or the Lyonesse, which now doth beare the Crowne, Was ever bent, and most propense unto the Dragon greene, As King her father was his friend, so hee his friendly Queene. Whose onely gift did him preferre to beare so high a port, Lord Steward of her house, chiefe guide & guerdon of her Court. She can exalt the Dragons impe, before the Dragon old, And will I trust God graunt her life, long reigne over us to hold. God grant the Pembroke Dragon may likewise live many a yeare, That he may learne the Lyon well both for to love and feare. Your honours most humble Chaplayne, George Coryate. Ad illustrissimum Comitem Oxoniensem. CLare Comes, generis summum decoramen aviti, Insuper Angliaci magna Columna soli. Da veniam tenui modulanti carmina plectro, Qu6d nequit optatis verba referre sonis. Te tua nobUitas commendat & inclyta virtus, Fortiaque eximii corporis acta tui. Nil opis externae quasris, nee carmina (quamvis Carmen amet quisquis carmine digna gerit) Hue tamen adveniens cum Principe nobilis hospes, Carminibus nobis excipiendus eris. 395 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Turn quia Musarum tanto capiaris amore, Auribus his modulis occinit una tuis. Tu velut hesterna cepisti carmina nocte, Hac quoque sic capias carmina nostra die. Tuo Honori deditissimus, Georgius Coryatus. Ad illustrissimum virum Dominum Burghleium primarium Anglias Thesaurarium. SI locus hic superest, inter si gaudia tanta Admittunt tenues tua magna negotia Musas, Omnis Pegasii properaret turba fluenti. Hic tibi gratificans, & nobile nomen adorans. Ast licet has sileant, cythara tamen obstrepet una, Olim nominibus tibi devinctissima multis, Haec mea Calliope est, ne dedignere can en tern. (Inclyte vir) totam tibi quae cum corpore vitam Devovet, & gratam reddit testantia mentem Carmina more suo, sed multo majus amore. Obsequiis concede suis, concede Camcenis. Scilicet hisce mei Domini quod sedibus hospes Advenis, accepta Regina, proximus astas, His mihi carminibus summo excipiendus honore. Hoc superest magno profundam vota Tonanti, Fcelix Nestoreos hic quum superaveris annos, Det tibi promissam super aurea sydera vitam. T. H devotissimus Georgius Coryatus. 39<5 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Ejusdem Carmina ad illustrissimos Oxoniensis & Cantabrigiensis Academiae Cancellarios D. Robertum Dudleium Comitem Leicestrensem & D. Gulielmum Cecilium Dominum Burgh leium, pronunciata in magna Aula Novi CoUegii Oxoniensis, Astronomice. SYdera qui lustrat, qui spherica corpora cernit, In sphaera geminos cernit is esse Polos. Arcticus est alter, Polus est antarcticus alter, Hoc splendente Polo non micat ille Polus. Nos tamen Mc geminos lucere videmus in urbe Hac nostra claros stelligerosque Polos. En micat Oxonii Polus inclytus Oxoniensis, Dudleius nostri duxque decusque Poli. Lucet & hac nostra Polus alter in urbe Cecillus, Ut videas geminos jam simul esse Polos. Ille Polus noster studiorum stellifer Atlas, Hic Cantabrigii lucida Stella Poli. Quod simul hanc nostram juncti venistis ad urbem, Qu6d simul unus honor junxit utrosque Polos, Accipite haec simili simul 6 pietate Patroni, Vivite fcelices atque valete Poli. Clarissimo & honoratissimo Viro D. Gulielmo Cecillo Baroni Burghlceo, ordinis Periscele- dis Equiti aurato, Summo Angliae Thesau- rio, Regiae Mli- a sanctioribus consiliis, & Academiae Cantabrigiensis Cancellario dignis- simo, rheumate laboranti pharmacum, unde ex morbo convaluit. MUlta aliis alii, tibi semper reddimus unum Carmen, at est docto grata medela viro. Carmine dii superi placantur crimine laesi, Carmen amat quisquis carmine digna gerit. Fertur Alexandrum peteret quum morbus, Homeri Carminibus lectis convaluisse cito. 397 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Hue venio, & redeo, maneo, rogo, quoerito, plango, Audio nil nisi te morbus iniquus habet. Comprecor (ut prosim tibi) magni carmen Homeri, Quo tu perlecto convaluisse potes. Nunc tibi devotos morborum postulo divos. Nunc mihi Mercurium consuluisse rogo. Iste jubet libros medicorum ut consulam, et illi Nee tibi, nee mihi se consuluisse negant Hos repeto docte promittit multa Galenus, Rheumatico certam datque Salernus opem. Quos ego sic paucis conjunxi versibus, ut sint AuxUioque tibi, praesidioque tibi. Perlege de morbo vestro breve carmen. Homerus Juvit Alexandrum, te mea Musa juvet. '. 2. 3 4 Jejuna, vigila. caleas dape. tuque labora. 5 6 7 Infundas calidum. Modicum bibe. comprime flatum. 8 Haec bene tu serva, Si vis depeUere rheuma. i Jejuna. Ejice Rheumaticos jejunans (optime) fluxus, Jejunare bonum est, sed macerare, malum. 2 Vigila. Tu multum vigUas. & dormis raro. quid inde ? Vis dormire magis ? & vigilare minus ? 3 Caleas dape. Teque dape, (ast calida) meque juvabis ope. 4 Tuque Labora. Nonne labor studium multorum ? lectio multa ? Est labor ille animi, sit labor iste manus. 5 Infundas calidum. Hoc liquet, ut frigus tanti sit causa doloris, Infusum calidum pellere rheuma potest 6 Modicum bibe. Cuncta facis modice, modicfe comedisque bibisque, Quid juvat ut jubeam te modicum bibere ? 398 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS 7 Comprime flatum. Et flatus, ventusque nocent, tu comprime flatum, Naribus ut pulsus non ferat inde caput. 8 Haec bene tu serva &c. Haec bene si serves, nee possis pellere rheuma, Consule tunc Medicos, namque Scholaris ego. Ad eundem gratiarum actio pro 40 solidis a se illi dono donatis. QUatuor ex vestra venerunt aurea dextra, Et data tu nostris versibus apta refers. Munera carminibus tua sunt majora tenellis, Ast utinam verti versus in ilia queat. Tum tibi carminibus possem pergratus haberi, Quatuor atque darem terque quaterque tibi. Pondere sed nequeunt, numero sed munera vestra iEquiparare queunt, parque referre pari. Ast tibi ponderibus, nee munera versibus aequa, Quando referre mihi non datur ulla tibi. Aurea nee possim tibi carmina ferre Cecili, Aurum nee cures, quando poeta refert. Aurea tanta tibi quod sint quot carmina Vati, Atque tua haec dixit * Desipientis opes. Aurea nulla tibi, sed tantum, Carmina reddam. iErea nam mea sunt, aurea nuUa mihi. Auro quando tuo mea carmina nulla referre JEqua. queant, summus reddat id ipse Deus. Ejusdem ad eundem querela pro Principe, Patria, & Musis, in Pseudocausidicos se injuste oppri- mentes. SIcilidum immortale decus Cecille Sororum, Principis, & Patriae summa columna tuas : * Sic dixit illustrissima tua uxor in carminibus suis ad Georgium Buchananum Scotiae poetam. 399 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Suscipe pro regno, pro Musis, Principe, posco Provoluens pedibus paucula verba tuis. Reginam, Regnum, Musas immaniter omnes Causidici spoliant, dilaniantque suas, Decipulis legum, Unguis venalibus, astu, Sumptibus immodicis, innumerisque malis. Non peto Caiisidicos qui causas dicere vere, Sed qui pro lucro dicere falsa solent. Lex bona, legis et est bonus usus. & optimus ordo Ast bona saepe malus non bene tractat homo. Hinc vis & lites, dolus & furor, impetus, ardor, Quum trahit ad mores optima quaeque malos. Quando trahit retrahitque viros ad devia legum, Ut Cacus Herculeos traxit ad antra boves. Ast precor Alcides veluti superaverit ilium, Hosce novos poteris exuperare Cacos. : Alcidesque boves illos velut extulit antris, Sic nobis vestram ferre velitis opem. Regnum forte potest, sed Princeps fortiter illos Legibus Angliacis exuperare suis. Nos opis expertes Musae flavaeque monetae, Imbelles, illis nil nisi prasda sumus. Qui potes, ergo velis miseras defehdere Musas, Sub patrocinio sint maneantque tuo. Fasne nefasne siet, jus, situe injuria juris, Non reputant, modo sic diripiantur opes. Dicite, sed quales ? Sapiens sic dixerat olim, Aurifluas, nuUas Insipientis opes. Ast utinam veras sapientum quaerere gazas In ccelo inciperent, & nisi vera loqui, Causidici falsi, qui leges munere torquent, Falsaque pro veris substituisse solent. Haec tibi Stellato venient dicenda Cubiclo, Hic ubi Stella potens^ tu Cynosura micas. Interea. ver6 Musarum nobile Sydus, Unica Castaliis spesque salusque deis, Noscere supplicibus petimus te vocibus ista, Et sine lege malis ponere posse modum. 400 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Sicelidum immortale decus Cicille sororum, Principis & Patriae summa columna, Vale. T. H. deditissimus, devinctissimusque Georgius Coryatus. Sacrae Theologiae Baccalaureus. Ad illustrissimum virum D. Joannem Puckeringum Magni Sigilli Custodem. INclyte qui regni suprema negotia tractas, Cujus & ingenio consilioque vigent, Da veniam tenui modulanti carmina Musas, Quod nequit optatis verba referre sonis. Multa & magna tibi cupio proferre, sed obstat Hic dolor auditus debilitasque mei. Ast tibi committo me, causam, pectora, vitam, Et pro judicio stentve cadantve tuo. Plurima saepe dedi Reginae carmina, saepe Haec mihi munifice munera plura dedit. Testis erit Dominus nunc Thesaurarius iste Inclytus Aonidum, magnus Apollo, Parens. Et si vixisset, Dominus Dudleius esset, Oxonii Phoebus qui mihi semper erat. Et si vixisset, nunc Walsinghamius esset, Clarus Eques, Dominae Principis altra manus. Hic mihi surreptas (qua tu nunc parte laboras) Principis assensu restituebat opes. Sic age. Reginam, Patriam, Musasque juvato, Hinc tibi proveniet gloria, fama, decus. Summe Pater totum qui torques numine" coelum, Reginam & regni sceptra tuere sui. Et tibi perpetuam super aurea sydera vitam Det tibi perpetuus qui regit astra deus. T. H. devotissimus Georgius Coryatus Sacrae Theologiae Baccalaureus. c. c. n. 4°* 2 c GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Reverendissimo in Christo Patri ac Domino D. Joanni Vitegifto Archiepiscopo Cantuariensi, totius Anglias Primati ac metropolitano, Georgii Coryati in nomen ac cognomen suum et in librum illius adversus Thomam Cart- wright, elogium atque Evangelica Axpostxk. FU | lget in asthereo veluti Sol aureus orbe, It | que reditque vias, pervolitatque Polum : Ho | c agit Angliaco florens tua gloria Regno, Mo|mus ut injudeat, progreditura magis. Mis | sus ab excelso cceli Rectore supremi, Sus [ picis hunc animo, pectore, voce Deum. A | rdua divini reseras mysteria verbi, De | que tuo totus provenit ore Deus. O | mnia, falsiloqui tollis deliria Vatis, Cu | ras ipse gregem, pellis et ipse lupum. 1 1 procul umbrisequax, procul ito tenebrio T. C. No | n potes in clara luce videre diem. Men | te manuque tua destruxit mcenia Babel, Io|manu Nemrod concidit ipse sua. An | non Nestoreos igitur tibi comprecer annos ? Nes | toreum quando pectus et ora refers ? Vi | ribus humanis deus altior omnibus unus, Te | dedit, aethereas quo caperemus opes. Gift | etenim Angligenis donum cognoscitur esse, Us | us et 6 doni maximus esto Dei. V. R. P. devotissimus Georgius Coryatus. 402 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Epitaphium Reverendissimi in Christo Patris ac Domini D. Joannis Piersei, seu potius nostri temporis Persei, Episcopi quondam Sarisburien- sis, ac postea Archiepiscopi Eboracensis, & Metropolitan! ejusdem, Meccenatis sui optimi. TRistis ut Andromede monstris objecta marinis Perseia erepta est inviolata manu : Romuleo Christi subjecta Ecclesia monstro (Quod fera terribilis dicitur esse maris) Sic erepta tuae divinae robore dextras Gaudet, & in laudes occinit ista tuas. Piersei celsus perrupit spiritus oris Ora Medusaei sanguinolenta Papae. Saxa Deos quondam, truncos quae numina fecit, Transtulit & vivos in fera saxa viros : Saxea facta tua. nunc squalet Bestia voce, Pallas ut in clypeo Gorgonis ora geris. Nunc viget Andromede florens Ecclesia Christi, Inachides vicit, perdomuitque feram. Phorcis obit, clypeo Pallas caput intulit altum Anglorum Pallas, Regia virgo, caput. Pallada sic nostram Capitis veneramur honore, Perseus horrendae quod dedit iste neci, Ergo Pater, Praesul, Praeco sanctissime Perseu, Christi athleta potens, perdomitorque Papae ; Andromedes capias gratantia carmina nostras, Scilicet ex victa laeta trophasa fera. Terruit excelsos olim quas Bulla Monarchas, Os tetrum in superos impia verba tonans. Mitra triplex duplices geminans cum clavibus enses, Supremum inferni, Cerbereumve caput. Seu Draco multorum Capitum, teterrima pestis (Monstrum horrendum, ingens, quod solet esse Papa) IUe sacro Domini percussus flamine verbi In Phlegetontasa jam Styge monstra parit. At tu summe Pater terris surrepte, triumphans Es cum sydereo nobilis umbra Deo. 403 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Epitaphium Reverendissimi in Christo Patris ac Domini D. Joannis Juelli Episcopi Sarisbu- riensis, Meccenatis sui optimi. JUlius Austriacos Caesar cum vicerat Anglos, Fertur ad occiduas castra locasse plagas : Et fundasse suo de nomine Caesaris urbem, Sive Sarisburiam Caesareamve voces. Julius abscessit, rexitque hanc jure Juellus, Angliaci nuper maxima Gemma soli. Quo neque vir melior quisquam, neque Episcopus alter Doctior, aut vita purior ullus erat. Hoc sua testantur pulchre monumenta laborum, Proque Dei scripti relligione libri. Queis nunquam scripsit quisquam meliora, locutus Nee magis Hyblaeo verba referta favo. Fulminat in vitia : in verae pietatis amantes Spargit Evangelica singula plena fide. Chara Deo imprimis, cunctis mortalibus aequa Vita fuit, nuUis mens pia fracta malis. Mortalis vitas pertassus, & aethera scandens, Evolat ad superas inclyta Gemma domos. Ergo JueUe vale rutUo preciosior auro, Angliaci nuper fulgida Gemma soli. Aliud Epitaphium in eundem. Buccina, Pastor, Eques, sonuit, pavit, superavit, Christum, Anglos, Papam, voce, labore, manu. The English. A Trumpet, Shepheard, Knight, did sound, feed, overcome, Christ, England, Pope, with voice, labour, hand. 404 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Epitaphium in lectissimam fceminam D. Annam Clifton, D. Joannis Clifton Equitis uxorem, sepultam Baringtoniae in agro Somersetensi. A NA equitis conjux Joannis Clifton, & ANNA N ata Patris Domini Montegli, gloria, lume N N ec non vita viri dum vixit, nobUe lume N ANNA haec in partu periens hic conditur ANNA. Ad clarissimum virum D. Eduardum Dierum optime de se meritum. DUm tibi carminibus cupio pergratus haberi, Haec subiit mentem sollicitudo meam. Multa an pauca darem, seu prorsus carmina nulla, An alio possem gratior esse modo. Multa jubent (praeclare) tibi me scribere multa, Purus amor, probitas, officiumque meum. Sin tibi multa darem, culparem carmina multum, Sic melius multo, si tibi nulla darem. Sin tibi nulla darem, merit6 tibi nullus haberer, Nee memor officii dicerer esse mei. Quid faciam quaero ? numero, vel pondere justo, Carmina tu modulo dimetiare tuo ? Si numero ; non multa fero, sin pondere, multa, Etsi pauca tibi, sint modo grata, feram. Ac si me logices non multum regula fallat, Nee tibi multa fero ; nee tibi nulla tamen. Accipe perplacida gratissima carmina fronte, No alio possum gratior esse modo. Gratulor adventum vobis cum Principe loetum, Et cum nobilium (chare Diere) choro. Epicedium D. Richardi Worselii clarissimi Ar- migeri, Insulas Vectensis olim Praefecti. URsula Worselium cur deflet sponsa maritum ? Quidve gemunt raptum nati duo pignora Patrem ? Quidve suum Dominum famuli toto agmine plangunt ? Quid lachrymis luget populus Vectensis obortis ? 405 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Quidve suum Phcebum Musas lachrymentur ademptum ? Cur ego ? cur tantos gemitus ? cur fundo querelas ? Nonne gravis dolor est quum tot moriuntur in uno ? Vir, Pater, & Dominus, Rector, Philomusus, amicus ? Epitaphium ejusdem, Parentum ejus, clarissimi Equitis & Dominas, Jacobi & Annas Worseliae, matris suae etiam Parentum D. Joannis Lee, Equitis clarissimi, & illius Domina? Annas, duorum etiam filiorum ejusdem Richardi Pulu- ere bombardico sublatorum : Octo nimirum hominum in una Ecclesias superiori parte tumu- lis quatuor inclusorum, octo versibus compre- hensum. EN pia Worselii lapis hic tegit ossa Richardi, Insula Praefectum quem gemit ista suum. Quem pater adversa. Materque aspectat in urna, Matris & in media spectat uterque parens. Ad latus hk nati pueri duo, sorte perempti Praepropera, infesti pulveris igne jacent. Fcelices omnes, vel quos sors dira coegit Tristia funestis claudere fata rogis. Vester affinis summe devinctus & devotus Georgius Coryatus composuit, & posuit. Epitaphium Clarissimi Viri Guhelmi Awberii, civilis juris Doctoris, Vicarii Generalis Archi episcopi Cantuariensis, & supplicum libellorum Reginas Elizabethas Magister. Hic situs Awberius, Legum Clarissimus ille Doctor & Interpres, j usque piumque docens : Ille fori judex quum Cantuariensis obivit Munus, & eximie praestitit illud onus : Supplicibus praefectus erat, summisque Libellis Principis Elisabeth, queis bene functus, obit. Quid referam ingenium, mores, vitamque probatam, Consilium, studium, judiciumque suum ? 406 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Quid genus & proavos & maxima nomina dicam ? Praedia quid vel opes enumerare juvat? Vel sua turritis surgentia mcenia saxis ? Tecta domus miris aedificata modis ? Non bona fortunae deerant, non corporis, artis Mentis & egregias vis sibi magna fuit. Testis erit Princeps, proceres, populique Britanni, Quos coluit studiis, officiisque suis. Praecipue testis sit munificentias & auri Supplicibus precibus pauper inopsque suis. Nam veluti Princeps est clementissima, sic is Supplicibusque favens simplicibusque fuit. Charus erat toti populo, procerumque catervae, Reginas imprimis, Principibusque viris. Audiit Oxonii superantem se sua Princeps, Tunc admirata est ingeniumque suum. Quum tot Pandectas, quum tanta volumina legum Tam cit6 tam subito volveret ore suo. Sic cum vixisset, famamque decusque parasset Eximium, vitae jam satur, astra petit. Atque animam Domino reddens, corpusque sepulchro Awberius, nom'en liquit in orbe suum. Epitaphium Trium Clarissimorum Armigerorum sepultorum Londini in proxima Ecclesia West- monasteriensi, D. Rowlandi Vaughan nuper Sereniss. Reginas Anglias D. Elizabethas cor poris Armigeri: D. Joannis Vaughan ejusdem Reginae in partibus Borealibus a Consiliis, ac D. Gulielmi Vaughan ejusdem Rowlandi filii, D. Gulielmi Cecilli, Equitis inaurati, D. Burghleii, totiusque Anglias D. Thesaurarii, nuper clarissimi charissimique servi. CErnite tres uno conclusos funere claros, Et consanguineos, conspicuosque viros. Armigeros omnes : Rowlandus at Armiger unus Corporis Elisabet Principis hujus erat. 407 GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS Principis & corpus sic defendebat, ut armis Hoc vivo est ausus perdere nemo suis. P6st miseri sacrum statuerunt perdere corpus, Vertit in authores sed Deus arma suos. Vertat & usque precor, Reginam protegat usque Talibus Armigeris, ccelitibusque suis. Armiger excellens Joannes nomine Vaughan Et pius, et prudens, & venerandus homo. Ergo a consiliis regni Borealibus hujus, Inclyta consiliis prasstitit acta suis. Ergo tibi charus Domina 6 clarissima Knevet, Conjugii junxsti quem tibi jure virum : Tam bene qui vixit mortis bene finiit horam, Hic etiam adversa parte sepultus adest. Hic Gulielme jaces Rowlandi maxima proles, Spes patriae, ac patrui, spes quoque primi Patris. Quem cit6 praereptum praeclara insignia, virtus Inclyta, mens fcelix, caslica vita beant. Et si forma viros commendet ut aurea virtus, Huic Phaebi facies, corpus Alexis erat. Nobilibusque viris si laus placuisse, CeciUo Est tua laus Domino perplacuisse tuo. At Rowlande Pater, Joannes Patrue Vaughan (Quos prius hic tumuli condecoravit honos) Nunc charo juncti nato, claroque nepoti In supera asterni vivitis arce Dei. G. "C. Index Abbeville, Thomas Coryat at, I. 160 ; gallows at, 1 60. Abdua, river at Cremona, 1. 257. Abraham, ancestor of the Magi, n. 325. Achmet, Sultan, and the defence of his empire, I. 212. ^Acrostic on Thomas Coryat by Ben Jonson, 1. 19. Actors in Venice, I. 386. Adige river at Verona, II. 17, 154; overflowings of, 18. Adinheim, Eberhardus, bishop of Spires in Coryat's time, II. 249. Adolph of Nassau, thirty-third German Emperor, II. 235. Adolphus, archbishop of Cologne, epi taph and monument of, 11. 332. Adrian, Emperor, and Justinus, I. 209. Adrian, Pope, and Charles the Great, i- 235- Adula, spring of the Rhine at, II. 176. jEnus, river in Rhaetia, n. 64. Agnes, wife of Andrew, king of Hun gary, 11. 147. Agnes, first wife of Emperor Arnol phus, n. 225. Agnes, Empress, wife of Henry III., 11. 234. Agricola, Rodolphus, praise of, by Erasmus, II. 227 ; epitaph of, by Bar baras, 228. Agrippa, Marcus Vipsanius, and Co logne, 11. 312. Agrippa, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 259. Agrippina, wife of Germanicus Caesar, and Cologne, 11. 312. Aiguebelette, the first Alp in Savoy, seen by Thomas Coryat, 1. 215 ; his ascension of, 216. Aiguebelle, near the Aiguebelette moun tain, 1. 215, 219. Aix in Province, Court of Parliament, 1. 179. Aken, Nimeguen's tribute to, 11. 359. Alaric, king of the Goths, in Italy, 1. 305. Albanus, martyr at Mayence, 11. 282. Albert, Archduke, at La Fere, in Picardy, I. 156. Albert, duke of Austria, at Zurich, 11. 108. Albert, emperor and king of the Romans, slain by John, duke of Swabia, 11. 144. Albertus, statue of, at Padua, I. 279. Albertus, Austriacus, and the death of Adolph of Nassau, 1298, 11. 235. Albis, river in Saxony, I. 237. Alboin, first king of the Longobards, 1. 236, 238 ; at Verona, 11. 21, 28 ; death of, at Verona, 38. Alciat, epigram of, I. 229. Alcuin and the Sorbona, 1. 171 ; schoolmaster of Charlemagne II. 169. Aldobrandini, Cardinal, ambassador of the Pope to Charles Emanuel, Duke of Savoy, I. 231. Alemannia, etymologies of, II. 178. Alemannus, surname of Hercules, 11. 179. Alexander III., Pope, and Frederick Barbarossa at Venice, 11 66, I. 349. Alexandria, body of St. Mark the evangelist brought from, 810, I. 354. Allapiazza, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 61. Alley, Peter, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 75-76. 409 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Allobroges, people of Vienna, I. 218. Alphonsus, king of Castella, pretendant to the empire of Germany, 11. 266. Alsatia, description of, 11. 180. Altorf university, in Germany, II. 307. Amadeus, first duke of Savoy, 141 5, afterwards Pope Felix V., I. 218. Amandus, first bishop of Strasburg, II. 193. Ambigatus, king of the Celts, I. 241. Ambrose, earl of Bergamo, II. 56. Amerbachius, Joannes, and his sons, learned men of Basle, 11. 171. Amiens, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 161 ; Scaliger's verses on, 161 ; surprise of, by the Spaniards, 1597, 165. Amphitheatre at Verona, description of, 11. 19 f. Amsterdam, Hugh Broughton at, 11. 175- Anacharsis, travels of, I. 128. Anafectus, Panluccius, first duke of Venice, c. 700, I. 418. Ancone mountain, Mezolt near, 11. 61 ; distance from to Chur in Rhaetia,375- Andernach, battle of, 776, 11. 37 ; birth place of Guinterius, 195 ; battles of, 306. Andrew, king of Hungary, 11. 147. Angelus, Politianus, epistles by, I. 393- Anna, Empress, monument of, at Basle, 11. 159. Anne, Queen, wife of James I. of England, her picture in Venice, I. 426. Antennacum, see Andernach. Antenor, Padua built by, 1. 138, 270 ; epitaph of, 271. Antiquities of Germany, 11. 82. Antoninus, Marcus Aurelius, the phil osopher, and the city of Amiens, I. 161 ; the seventeenth Emperor of Rome, 11. 200. Antoninus Pius, and the City of Amiens, 1. 161. Antoninus, Verus, and the fourth per secution of the Christians, I. 207. Antonio, fellow-traveller of Thomas Coryat, I. 228. 'AjroSrj/iowri^iXos, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 22-26. Aponus, Petrus, statue of, at Padua, 1. 280. Aquileia, in Emperor Martian's time, and Attila, 1. 305 ; Cardinal Gri- mannus, patriarch of, 321 ; Hermo- laus Barbarus, patriarch of, 11. 228. Aquinas, Thomas, and Corpus Christi day, 1. 176. Arar (Latin name of river Saone), 1. 205 ; 11. 154. Archidapifer, meaning of, 11. 224. Arezia, Tuisco, son of Noah, and, 11. 178. Argentina, Roman name for Strasburg, 11. 184. Arians, Bartholomew, bishop of Vicenza, and the, 11. 5. Ariovistus, king of the Germans, battle of Julius Caesar against, at Basle, 11. 172. Aristotle, travels of, I. 128. Armoury of the Duke's Palace at Venice, 1. 345. Armoury of Zurich, 11. 100. Armu in Zeeland, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 372. Arnolphus and the siege of Verona, 11. 37 ; at Bergamo, 900, 56. Arnolphus Malus, son of Emperor Arnolphus, II. 225. Arola river, n. 144; Solodure on, 154. Arsenal of Venice, description of, I. 358. Asimo, first bishop of Chur, 452, II. 89. Athanasius, bishop of Spires, c. 610, 11. 249. Athenaeum, meaning of, I. 296. Athesis river, see Adige. Attalus, martyr at Lyons, I. 207. Attila at Lyons, 1. 204 ; at Cremona, 260 ; at Padua, 273 ; in Italy, 305 ; in Vicenza, 11. 12 ; in Verona, 21 ; at Brescia, 47 ; at Bergamo, 56 ; at Basle, 171 ; at Strasburg, 183 ; at Spires, 251 ; at Worms, 263 ; at Cologne, 348. Augst, see Augusta Rauracorum. Augusta, name of many cities, I. 230. Augusta Rauracorum, built by Muna tius Plancus, 11. 152. Aurelian, battle of, with the Germans near Mayence, 11. 280. Ausonius, verses on Milan by, I. 240- 241. Austin, William, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 83-86. 410 INDEX Autharus, third king of the Longo bards, I. 235. Awbrey, William, epitaph of, by George Coryat, II. 405-406. Aymon, last earl of Savoy, I. 218. Bacchara, on the Rhine, 11. 299. Bacchilio, river of Vicenza, II. 3, 154. Baden, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 137 ; on the Limacus, 154. Baden, Lower, Thomas Coryat at, II. 197; marquisate of, 199; Hochberg, tide of the marquesses of, 200. Badley, Richard, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 107- no. Bajazet, and Tamberlane, I. 349, note. "Baker, William, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 79-80. Balaam, ancestor of the Magi, 11. 325. Ball, Lord, of Bagshot in Hampshire, customs of, 11. 303. Balthasar, third wise king, offers myrrh, II. 326. Barbaras, Hermolaus, patriarch of Aquileia, Agricola's epitaph by, II. 228. Bardo, abbot of Fulda, cathedral of Mayence finished by, 11. 271. Barocius, Vicentius, praetor of Ber gamo, 11. 53. Bartholomew, bishop of Vicenza and the Arians, II. 5. Basil, see Basle. Basle, bishop of, and Zurich, 11. 108 ; death of Huldricus of Palma at, 146 ; Thomas Coryat at, 152 ; etymology of, 1 53 ; on the Rhine, 1 54 ; cathedral of, 156; university of, founded by Pius 1 1., 170; Attila at, 171 ; Coun cil of, 1 43 1, 172 ; distance from, to Strasburg, 376. Bassano, owner of Livy's house, I. 282. Bassanum near Trent, I. 273. Bastard, Thomas, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 78. Bat, Swiss money, 11. 107. Batavia, former name of Holland, II. 362. Baths of Baden, description of, II. 139- 143 ; discovered in 160, 200 ; number of, 201. Battles fought near Cremona, 1. 259. Beatrix, wife of Frederick Barbarossa, 11. 235. Beauvoisis, province of, I. 167. Bede, Venerable, 11. 169 ; Alcuin, scholar of, I. 171. Belford, Master, secretary of Sir Henry Wotton, 1. 376. Bellicure, archbishop of Lyons, I. 204. Bellovesus, son of Ambigatus, king of the Celts, I. 241. Bembo, Cardinal, monument of, in Padua, 1. 287. Benacus Lake, I. 264. Beratterius, Nicolas, and the pillars of St. Mark's Place in Venice, I. 324. Berberomagum, see Worms. Berengarius, Duke of Friuli, II. 56. Berengarius, Prince, at Verona, II. 28. Bergamo, subject to Venice, 1. 420 ; Thomas Coryat at, 11. 48-60; Scaliger's verses on, 49 ; cathedral of, 49-53 ; church of the Augustinian friars in, 54 ; Attila at, 56 ; Arnolphus at, 56. Bergen-op-zoom in Brabant, 11. 371. Bericus, hill near Vicenza, 11. 3. Berne, city of, against Zurich, 11. 108 ; Kiningsfelden Monastery, possession of, II. 143. Bertha, wife of Henry IV, 11. 234. Bessarion, Cardinal, his library at Venice, I. 321. Betsa, Venetian tin coin, I. 423. Bevelaqua, La, Thomas Coryat at, I. 269. Bibliander, Theodorus, learned man of Zurich, II. 98, III. Bibliotheca by Gesner, I. 394. Bing, see Bingen. Bingen on the Rhine, 11. 209 ; Thomas Coryat at, 295. Biron, marshall of, at Amiens, I. 166. Blandina, martyr at Lyons, I. 207. Blood, rain of, in Brescia, 11. 46. Boars' heads on houses in Baden, 11. 137. Bodin, praise of the Germans by, I. 132; 11. 76. Bollanus, Dominicus, senator of Venice and bishop of Brixia, monument of, 1. 382. Bominee, Sconce in Scowel Island, 11. 371- Bommel, on the Waal, II. 361. Bonamicus, Lazarus, of Padua, I. 298. 411 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Bonifacius, English bishop of Mayence, II. 274. Bonn, description of, II. 309. Bononia, Carolus Quintus and the Pope at, 1. 340. Bonus, Joannes, first dweller on the Rialto, 1. 304. Booksellers' Street in Frankfort, II. 291. Boppard, description of, captured by King Richard of England, 11. 304. Boquinus, Petrus, preacher at Heidel berg, 11. 229. Borromeo, Cardinal, his monument in Milan, I. 244. Boson, king of Province or Provence, 11. 38. Bouillon, Duke of, master of the horse of the king of France, I. 193. Bouillon, Godfrey, duke of, and the first crusade, 1094, II. 238. Boulogne, Thomas Coryat at, 1608, 1. 157 ; gallows at, I. 158. Bourbon, monument of the Cardinal of, at St. Denis, 1. 185. Brabant inundated by the sea, 1420, 11. 365- . Bragadino, Antonius, at the siege of Famagusta, I. 421. Brandenburg, Marquess of, and Rugia Island, 1. 237. Brandus, Sebastianus, learned man of Basle, 11. 171. Braves, Venetian bandits, I. 413. Brembana Valley, Brembus river in, 11. 61. Brembus river in Brembana Valley, 11. 61. Brenes, M. de, ambassador in Con stantinople, 1. 211. , Brennus, Gaulish chief, in Verona, 11. i7- Brenta river, near Padua, I. 270. Brescia, subject to Venice, 1. 420 ; Thomas Coryat at, 11. 40 ; Scaliger's hexastichon on, 41 ; cathedral of, 43 ; Attila at, 47. Bressa, see Brescia. Bretueil, Thomas Coryat at, I. 167. Brewers Haven in Scowen Island, II. 371- Briare, Thomas Coryat at, I. 196. Bridge over the Mincius, I. 266. Bridge, wooden, at Mayence, built by Charles the Great, 813, 11. 281 ; destroyed by fire, 823, 281. Bridges in Paris, 1. 171 ; in Venice, 312 ; in Dordeecht, 11. 367. Brisac on the Rhine, II. 176. Brixia, see Brescia. Brondolo, haven of Venice, I. 304, Brooke, Christopher, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 56-57. Brooke, Kiningsfelden Monasterynear, II. 139 ; Thomas Coryat at, 11. 150. Brothers, the four Albanian, statues of, in Venice, I. 331. Broughton, Hugh, supposed conversion of, 11. 175- Browne, Sir William, deputy governor of Flushing, II. 374. Brule, Albertus de, carving done in St. George's Church by, I. 383. Brun, William Tell at, II. 102. Bruschus, river in Strasburg, II. 183. Bucentoro, the, Venetian ship, I. 359. Bucer, Martin, reformer in Strasburg, 11. 194 ; reformed preacher, 335. Buelerus, Marcus, of Zurich, friendly to Thomas Coryat, 11. 95, 97, 109 ; Thomas Coryat's epistle to, 130-134; his epistle to Thomas Coryat, 135- 136. BufFolero in Lombardy, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 237. BuUinger, Henry, learned man of Zurich, 11. 98, 109, in ; manuscripts of, no ; Coryat's epistle to, 127-130. Burdeaux, in Aquitaine, Court of Parliament, I. 179. Burghley, William Cecil, Lord, George Coryat to, 11. 395 f. Burials, strange, in Venice, I. 393. Bursa College, at Heidelberg, 11. 227. Busbequius, Augerius, German writer, 11. 85. Butterflies, great swarms of, in Savoy, 1. 223. Byrsa river at Basle, 11. 153, 155. Cadmus, Thebes built by, I. 138. Caesar, Julius, travels of, I. 138; battle of, against Ariovistus, king of the Germans at Basle, 11. 172 ; and the institution of the Roman prefects in Gaul, 282. Calais, Thomas Coryat at, 1608, 1. 152 ; sands of, 153; description of, 155; 412 INDEX captured by the Spanish, 1 56 ; dis tance from, to Paris, 301. Calepine, Ambrose, Augustinian friar in Bergamo, Latin Dictionary by, II. 54- Camerarius, Joachimus, of Heidelberg, Jacobus Micyllus of Strasburg, to, II. 215. Camp, village in Valtulina valley, 11. 62 ; Thomas Coryat at, 65. Campegius, Symphorianus, his Latin tract on Lyons, I. 214. Campian, Thomas, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 73. ^¦Campion, Edmund, picture of, in the College of Jesuits at Lyons, 1. 210. Campus Martius, in Zurich, 11. 105. Canal, Grand, at Venice, I. 306. Canareio, quarter in Venice, I. 306. Candia or Crete, subject to Venice, 1. 421. Candianus, Thomas, consul of Padua, 1.305. Candolchin, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 65, 67. Canisius, Peter, learned man of Nime guen, 11. 360. Capitano, military head of the forces in the land cities subject to Venice, I. 420. Capito, Wolfangus Fabricius, refor mer in Strasburg, II. 194. Capra, Earl Odoricus, palace of, in ,. Vicenza, 11. 9, n. Carew, Sir Francis, gardens of, II. 24 36. Carinthia, Meinhard, duke of, II. 144. Carolostadius, Andreas, Protestant reader of Basle, 11. 167. Carolus Calvus, see Charles the Bald. Carolus Magnus, see Charles the Great. Carolus Martellus, see Charles Martel. Carolus Quintus, see Charles V. Carrarius, Francis, and Verona, 11. 29. . Carteromachus, Scipio, of Padua, I. 298. ^Cartwright, Thomas, II. 401. Casa, Joannes, bishop of Beneventum, 11. no. Casaubon, Isaac, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 180. Casimires, family name of the Count Palatines, 11. 225. Casimirian College at Heidelberg, 11. 227. Cassandra, picture of, in Venice, 1. 393. Cassels, Prince Mauritius and the Persian ambassadors at, 11. 84. Castella, haven of Venice, 1. 304 ; quarter in Venice, 306. Castiglione, or Castilion, Balthasar, poet and orator, 1529, I. 268. Castles of Verona, 11. 19. Castriot, see Scanderbeg. Cathedral Church of Basle, 11. 156 ; monument of Erasmus in, 158 ; of Bergamo, 49-53 ; of Brescia, monu ments of, 43 ; of Chur, built by bishop Thello, 770, 88 ; of Cologne, 314; description of, 31 5; of Mayence, founded by WiUigisus, bishop, c. 1011,271; pulpits in, 273; of Spires, Robert Turner on, 233 ; S. Bernard's salutation to the Virgin in, 236-237 ; of Strasburg, founded by Clodoveus, 508, 185 ; of Verona, 31 ; S. Zeno's monument in, 33 ; of Worms, 256. Catti, ancient warlike people, 11. 301. Cenis, see Senis. Cethura, ancestress of the Magi, II. 325- Chambery, capital city of Savoy, I. 217. Chambre, la, see La Chambre. Chapineys used in Venice, 1. 400. Chapman, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 72-73. Chappel de la Royne, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 195. Charenton, Protestant preachers at, 1. 185. Charite" la, Thomas Coryat at, I. 198. Charles the Bald, king of France, monument of, at St. Denis, 1. 183, 268 ; and the Normans, 197 ; death of, at Mantua, 267; at Verona, 778, 11. 37; at Andernach, 776, 37; Ludovicus king of Italy, grandson of, 39 ; battle of, with Lewis II. at Andernach, 306. Charles the Great (Charlemagne), Sorbonne founded by, 796, 1. 171 ; in Italy, 230 ; and Pope Adrian, 235 ; at Verona, II. 28 ; and the siege of Verona, 37 ; tower in Zurich, 98 ; and the ecclesiastical affairs of Germany, 261 ; crowned king of France at Worms, 769, 264; wooden bridge built at Mayence by, 813, 281. 413 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Charles Martel, monument and epitaph of, at St. Denis, I. 184 ; imprisoned at Cologne, 349. Charles IV. German Emperor, 11. 292. Charles V. King of France, first Dauphin, 1364, I. 194. Charles V. of Spain, battle between Francis I. and, 1. 230, 255 ; and the Pope at Bononia, picture of, at Venice, 340 ; statue of, in the Senate House of Worms, 11. 262. Charles, son of Empress Anna, monu ment of, at Basle, 11. 159. Charles, Duke of Burgundy, and the Swiss at the battle of Granson, 1476, 1. 192 ; and the Swiss, 11. 103. Charles Emanuel, present Duke of Savoy, 1. 231. Chatillon, admiral of France, and the Mount Falcon gallows, I. 170. Chiavenna, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 65. Chiliades by Erasmus, 11. 227. Chioggia, haven of Venice, 1. 304. Chiquinie, Venetian coin, value of, I. 389 ; gold coin, 422. Chondomarius, king, prisoner of Julian the Apostate, 11. 193. Christian II. Duke of Saxony, bene factor to Chur, 11. 90. Chur, or Curia, principal town of Rhetia, 11. 63 ; Thomas Coryat at, 87-92 ; past history and description of cathedral of, 88-89 ; confederation of, 1419, 1424, II. 90 ; distance from, to Zurich, 376. Church, cathedral, of Amiens, descrip tion of, I. 162 ; cathedral of Milan, description of monuments in, 244 ; cathedral of Paris, 172 ; of Nevers, 198 ; cathedral, at Turin, 231 ; of the Augustinian friars in Bergamo, II. 54 ; of Madonna Miracoloso in Venice, 365 ; of the Maccabees, in Cologne, 340 ; Maria Antiqua, in Verona, 27 ; of Middleborough, monuments of, 373 ; of Rees, 355 ; of S. Albanus at Mayence, 281 ; S. Anastasia, in Verona, 34 ; of S. Barbara,in Mantua, 1. 266 ; S. Bar tholomew's, in Frankfort, 11. 289 ; S. Catherine's in Oppenheim, 268 ; of S. Felix and S. Regula built by Clodoveus, king of France at Zurich, 97 ; Greek, S. George's, description of, I. 367 ; ceremonies in, 368 ; of S. Gereon, and the martyrs, relics in Cologne, 11. 342 ; of S. Justina in Padua, I. 288 ; of S. Mary in Vicenza, 11. 10 ; S. Mark's in Venice, 1. 347 ; S. Paul's in Venice, 385 ; of S. Peter in Zurich, 11. 99 ; of S. Ursula in Cologne, 337. Churches in Lower Baden, 11. 199 : in Calais, ceremonies in, 1. 153 ; in Cologne, 11. 314 ; of Dordrecht, 367 ; of Heidelberg, 209 ; in Lyons, I. 208 ; of Mayence, 11. 270 ; in Milan, description of, 1. 242, 247, 254 ; at Spires, 11. 233 ; S. Anthony's, in Padua, 1. 286 ; S. John and Paul in Venice, description of, 361. Cicero, travels of, I. 129. Ciconia, Pascalis, Duke of Venice, Palma castle built by, 1593, I. 421. Cimerica, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 259. Cirinus, king of Liguria, Bergamo built by, II. 49. Claraval in Burgundy, S. Bernard, abbot of, 11. 236. Clarke, Josias, Anagram, on Thomas Coryat by, I. 82. Claudia, mother of Constantius Chlorus, buried at Spires, 11. 231. Claudius, Flavius, Emperor, and the battle near Lago di Como, 11. 40. Clavel, William, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 35-36. Clermont, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 167 ; dynasty of the counts of, 1 68 ; council of, in France, 1094, 11. 238. Cleve, capital of Cleveland, II. 353, 356. Cleveland, Duke of, titles of, 11. 135. Clifton, Anna, epitaph of, by George Coryat, II. 404. Clock of Strasburg, description of, 11. 187. Clodoveus (Clovis), king of France, and the church of S. Felix and S. Regula at Zurich, II. 97 ; and the bishops of Worms, c. 500, 260. Cloister of S. Felix and S. Regula church, monuments of, 11. 98. Cloisters in Basle cathedral, 11. 160. Coblentz by the Mosella and Rhine, 11. 154. Coblenz, etymology of, description of, 11. 3°5- 414 INDEX Cocharus, river, tributary of the Neckar, II. 208. Coctiae, Alps, from king Coctius, 1. 225. Coctius, king, victor of the ancient Gauls, 1. 225. Colen, see Cologne. Coleon, Barthelmew, of Bergomo, captain of the Venetians, 1. 420 ; picture of, in Venice, 361 ; monu ment of, in Bergamo cathedral, II. 50. Colmaria in Alsatia, 11. 181. Cologne by the Rhine, 11. 1 54 ; council of, 348, 260 ; S. Maternus, first apostle of, 310 ; Scaliger's verses on, 311 ; founders of, 312 ; descrip tion of, 313 ; cathedral and churches of, 314; the Magi, and the other saints in, 329 ; bishopric of, 334 ; S. Ursula's church in, 337 ; Mac cabees' church in, 340 ; university of, 348 ; Attila at, 348 ; distance from, to Nimeguen, 376. Colonia, see Cologne. Colossus, stone, near Mayence, erected by Drusus Nero, 11. 276. Como, Lago di, or Lacus Larius, description of, 11. 40. Companies, city, in Venice, 1. 389. Condfe, Prince of, at Fontainebleau, I. 195. Confederation of Switzerland, 1316, H. 103 ; of Rhaetia, 90. Conrad 1 1., Emperor, surnamed Salicus, cathedral of Spires founded by, c. 1030, 11. 233. Conrad the Wise, monument of, in Worms, 11. 267. Consilio di Dieci, in the palace of the duke of Venice, 1. 340 ; after the Roman Decemviri, 1. 418. Constantine, Emperor, cross of, kept in Brescia, 11. 44 ; at Chur, 354, 88. Constantius Chlorus, founder of Spires, II. 231. Contareno, Thomaso, Podesta of Padua, 1. 294. Contarens, Cardinal, Commonwealth of Venice translated into English, 1.3- Contarenus, and the public schools of Germany, I. 135. Copernicus, Nicolaus, his statue on the Strasburg clock, II. 188. Corbet, Richard, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 70-71. Corfu, or Corcyra Island, subject to Venice, 1. 421. Cornelius, Marcus, bishop of Padua, I. 293. Corpus Christi ceremonies in Paris, described by Thomas Coryat, I. 176- 178, 182. Corvinus, Messala, Roman orator, 11. 150. Coryat, Rev. George, Posthuma frag- menta poematum of, 11. 377-407. Coryat, Thomas, dedicatory epistle to Henry, Prince of Wales, by, 1. 1-6 his epistle to the reader, 7-15 character of, by Ben Jonson, 16-18 acrostic on, by Ben Jonson, 19 verses by, 120 ; Carolus Wimier of the Praemonstratenian Order and, 161 ; his epistles to Gaspar Waserus, 11. 113-121; answer of Gaspar Waserus to, 122-123: his epistle to Rodolphus Hospinianus, 123-126 ; his epistle to Henry Bul- linger, 127-130; his epistle to Marcus Buelerus, 130-134; answer of Marcus Buelerus to, 135-136 ; to the Prince of Wales, 379. Cosmography by Munster, 1. 421 ; 11. 109. Cotton, Rowland, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 32-33. Courtesans in Venice, I. 401-409. Courtney, Edward, Earl of Devonshire, buried in Padua, I. 287. Courts of Parliament in France, I. 179. Cranfield, Lionel, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 63-64. Crema, see Cremona. Cremona, Scaliger's verses on, 1. 257 ; besieged by the French, 260 ; subject to Venice, I. 420. Crescens, first apostle of Mayence, 11. 274. Crocodile, stuffed in Padua, descrip- of, I. 290. Cross of Emperor Constantine in Brescia, 11. 44. Crown, iron, of the Lombard kings at Modoetia, I. 252; of thorns, of Christ, II. 4. Cumana, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. 415 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Cunegunda, wife of Henry II. the saint, II. 225 note. Cunimundus, father of Queen Rosa mund, II. 38. Cups, wooden, used in Switzerland, 11. 67. Curia, see Chur. Curio, Caelius Secundus, 1. 232 ; epitaph of, at Basle, 11. 164, 165. Curio, Leoni, son of, epitaph of, at Basle, 11. 165. Curtabatus, Joannes, and Thomas CoryatatMezolt,Il.o2 ; atChiavenna, 65. Cuttenbergius, Joannes (Gutenberg), printing invented by, 1440, 11. 277. Cuve on the Rhine, 11. 300. Cyprus Island, sometime subject to Venice, I. 421. Cyrus, travels of, I. 135. Dagobert, king, monument and epitaph of, at S. Denis, 1. 183 ; bishopric of Strasburg founded by, c. 630, 11. 193 ; and the heathen temples in Spires, 11. 251. Dalburgius, Joannes, counsellor to Ludovicus and afterwards bishop of Worms, 11. 228, 267. Danube, Trajan's bridge over the, 1. 309. Dasypodius, Conradus, architect of the clock of Strasburg, 11. 187. Daulus, Zenus, consul of Padua, I. 305. Dauphin or Dolphin, origin of the title of, 1. 194. Davis, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 101-107. Decemviri, Roman, model of the " Consilio di Died," I. 418. Decius, Emperor, and the seventh persecution of the church, 11. 33 ; and Philippus Arabs, 11. 37. Delph in Holland, death of William Prince of Orange at, 11. 225. Delphica, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. Delphinus, Dionysius, bishop of Vicenza in Coryat's time, 11. 12. Denmarke, king of, Venetian gentle man, 1425, 1. 415. Desensan, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 39. Desiderius, last king of the Longo- bardes, 1. 235 ; nunnery at Brescia built by, 750, II. 45. Deutz, on the Rhine, etymology of, 11. 348. Dialogue, by Josias Simlerus Tigurinus, I- 394- Diana's temple in Spires, II. 250 ; de molished by Dagobert, 251. Dictionary, Latin, by Ambrose Cele- pine, 11. 54. Dier, Edward, George Coryat to, II. 404. Digges, Dudley, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 31-32. Dijon in Burgundy, Court of Parlia ment, 1. 179. Dion Cassius, Greek author, I. 309. Dionet, king of Britain, father of S. Ursula, 11. 336. Disertinum, abbot of, and the con federation of Rhetia, 1424, 11. 90. Dodo, Petrus, captain of Padua, I. 293- Doit, Dutch coin, 11. 365. Domitian, Emperor, and the flies, 1. 268. Domo or Cathedral in Italy, I. 295. Donato, Leonardo, Duke of Venice, 1. 309, 418. Dones, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 71. Donne, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 37-39. Doole, palace of Dordrecht, built by the Earl of Leicester, 11. 367. Dordrecht, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 363 ; maiden city of Holland, 364 ; situa tion of, 365 ; churches of, 367 ; dis tance from, to Flushing, 376. Dorso Duro, quarter in Venice, 1. 306. Dotrula, prefect, Lombard tyrant, 1. 235. Dourlans, Hernand Teillo, governor of, 1. 165. Dover, distance from, to Calais, I. 301. -Drayton, Michael, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 97-98. Drepanum, haven in Sicily, 1. 284. Dress worn in Venice, 1. 398 ; by women, 399 ; of gentlewomen in Bergamo, 11. 55 ; of the Swiss in Zurich, 105-106; of women in Strass burg, 192 ; of Helvetians, 173. Drinking in Germany, 11. 174 ; in the Netherlands, 360. 416 INDEX Drusus Nero, and the stone Colossus near Mayence, II. 276 ; battles of, 280 ; death of, at Bingen, 296. Ducatoon, silver coin in Venice, I. 422. Durand, M., Protestant preacher at Charenten, 1. 185. Dusseldorf in Cleveland, Thomas Coryat at, II. 350. Duysburg in Cleveland, Gerardus Mercator buried at, II. 351. Dysseldorp, see Dusseldorf. Earthquakes at Basle, 1346, 1356, 11. 171. Eberhardus, Duke of Franconia, battle of Otho the Great with, at Ander nach, 11. 307. Ecclesiastical History, by Eusebius, ^ I. 207. ¦Edwards, Thomas, Monostiches by, quotation from, 11. 56. Egilolphus, fourth King of the Longo bards, I. 260 ; at Mantua, 267. Election, Mode of, in Venice, I. 419. Elizabeth, Empress, Kiningsfelden monastery founded by, 1408, 11. 144. Elizabeth, Queen, George Coryat in praise of, 11. 381-384. Elizabeth, wife of Rupertus, Duke of Bavaria, 11. 212. ^Emley, Laurence, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 99-101. Emmerich, Thomas Coryat at, II. 356. Engers, on the Rhine, II. 306. Episcopius, Nicolaus, printer of Basle, II. 172. Erasmus of Rotterdam, monument of, in the cathedral of Basle, 11. 158; praise of Rodolphus Agricola by, II. 227. Eretinus, river of Vicenza, 11. 3. Ergovia, II. 96. Eridanus, see Po. Erythraea, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. Eselerus, Hortmannus, prefect of Zurich and Thomas Coryat, 11. 100. Essenbach, Walterus de, and the murder of Emperor Albert, 11. 145 ; death of, 146. Este in the Signiory of Venice, I. 269. Etlingen, antique town near Baden and Turlowe, 11. 203. Eucherius, disciple of S. Denis, I. 169 ; shrine of, 185. C. C. II Eugenius IV, Pope, and the Council of Basle, 1431, n. 172. Euphrates, Archbishop of Cologne, deposed by the Council of Cologne, 348, 11. 260. Europaea, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 259. Eusebius, bishop of Caesarea, his account of the martyrs of Lyons, I. 207 ; Ecclesiastical History of, 11. 168. Eustorgius, bishop of Milan, and the bodies of the Magi, 11. 329. Exchange of the merchants in Paris, description of, 1. 172; of Venice, 312 ; of Bergamo, 11. 53 ; at Frankport, 292. Ezzelinus, tyrant of Padua, 1. 273 ; at Verona, 11. 29. Fairs in Frankfort, II. 290, 292. Faletrus, Albertus, consul of Padua, I- 3°5- Famagusta, or Salamis Island and the Turks, 1. 421. Families, noble, in Venice, I. 414. Fans, used in Italy, I. 256. Farnaby, Thomas, alias Bainrafe, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 82-83. Fastrada, fourth wife of Charles the Great, 783, 11. 264 ; death of, at Mayence, 281. Feasts, religious, in Venice, I. 388. Felix V, Pope, formerly Amadeus, 1st duke of Savoy, 1. 218 ; and the council of Basle, 1431, 11. 172. Fenton, William, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 73-74. Ferdinandus Primus Caesar, statue of, in the Senate House of Worms, 11. 262. Ferivarius, John, travels of, I. 129. Ferroe monte, Franciscus de, work of, in Bergamo Cathedral, 11. 52. Ferry, description of a, in Italy, 1. 233. Field, James, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 11 5-1 16. Fights, street, in Venice, I. 413. Firtle, German measure, II. 219. Flessinga, see Flushing. Florentus IV., Earl of Holland, and Zeland, II. 369. Flugius, Joannes, bishop of Chur in Coryat's time, 11. 89. 417 2D CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Flushing, or Ulissingen in Walcheren Island, drinking habits of, II. 360, 372 ; etymology of, 374 ; distance from, to London, 375-376. Foelix, see Felix. Fontainebleau, Thomas Coryat at, I. 185 ; forest of, 186 ; palace of, 187 ; gardens of, 188. Fontigo, the, in Venice, description of, 1. 384. Food in Venice, I. 395. Forest, Black, or Nigra Sylva, the Neckar's source in, 11. 208. Forest, Ottonica, near Heidelberg, II. 209. Forks, used in Italy, I. 236. Fracastorius, Hieronymus, of Padua, 1. 298. Francis I., battle between, and Charles V. near Turin, 1. 230 ; prisoner at Pizighiton, 255. Franckendal, Thomas Coryat at, II. 252. Frankfort, Scaliger's verses on, 11. 287-288 ; Thomas Coryat at, 288- 293 ; description of, 288 f. ; election of the King of the Romans at, 289 ; fairs at, 290, 292 ; distance from, to Cologne, 376. Frederick I., Barbarossa, 11. 235 ; at Padua, 1 1 70, 1. 273 ; and Pope Alex ander III. at Venice, 1166, 349. Frederick 1 1., and the town and tower of Turlowe, 11. 205 ; Count Pala tine, and the Popish church, 1546, 226 ; Emperor, marriage of, with Isabella, daughter of King John of England, at Worms, 1235, 266. Frederick III., Emperor, picture of, in the Senate House of Worms, 11. 261 ; death of, at Lintz, 1493, 307. Frederick IV., Count Palatine, manu script book by the great-grandfather of, kept in Heidelberg library, 11. 211. Frederick, Duke of Austria, and the Swiss Confederation, 11. 103. Freebooters, near the Rhine, 11. 308. Fregosius, Janus, monument of, in S. Anastasia's church in Verona, 11 34- Friburg, city of, against Zurich, II. 108. Frisius, Joannes Jacobus, learned man of Zurich, II. III. Frisius, Nicolaus, at Spires, II. 251. Frobenius, Hierome, printer of Basle, II. 166, 172. Frobenius, John, printer of Basle, 11. 172. Frogs, used as food in Italy, I. 258; in Rhaetia, 11. 64 ; lake of, at Zurich, 96. Fuder, German measure. 11. 219. Fulco, Earl of Anjou, travels of, I. 138. Fulda, abbey of, founded by Bonifacius, II. 274. Fulgosus, Raphael, of Padua, 1. 298. Funerals in Verona, 11. 36. Furca mountain, spring ofthe Rhodanus at, 1. 205. Furstenberg, wines of, 11. 299. Fuscarus, Duke of Venice, 1. 334 ; and the King of Denmark, 1425, I. 415. Gabriel, archbishop of Philadelphia, and Thomas Coryat, at Venice, I. 369- Galeatius, Joannes, Viscount of Milan, and Verona, 11. 29. Galleys, Venetian, 1. 359 ; and slaves in Venice, 414. Gallows at Boulogne, description of, 1. 158; at Abbeville, 160; at Cler mont, 168; on Mount Falcon, 170; of alabaster in Venice, 330 ; at Rheinfelden, 11. 151 ; near Frank fort, 287 ; near the Rhine, 308. Garda, see Benacus. Garden of Earl Leonardus Walmarana in Vicenza, description of, 11. 6. Gardens of Fontainebleau, I. 188. Gardo, see Benacus. Garnet, Henry, picture of, at Cologne, 11. 349- Gaspar, second wise king, offers frank incense, 11. 326. Gattamelita, and the reducing of Padua to the signiory of Venice, 1402, 1. 274; statue of, 286; of Narnia, renowned captain of the Venetians, 420. Gazet, Venetian tin coin, I. 422. Gelderland, province of the Nether lands, 11. 357. Gemusaeus, Hieronymus, professor at Basle, 11. 171. Genebria, learned woman of Verona, "• 39- 418 INDEX Genepe, Gulielmus de, monument of, in Cologne, II. 334. Genet, M. de la, deputy-governor of Calais, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 1 52. Geography, by Ptolomaeus, 11. 256. Gerbirga, wife of Gislebertus, 11. 307. Germany, universities in, number of, I. 8 ; praise of, by Bodin, 132 ; Pope Leo's ambassadors in, 133; Con tarenus and the public schools of, 135 ; praise of, by Bodin, 11. 76 ; Thomas Coryat's description of, 178-31 1 ; etymology of, 179 ; George Sidenham's verses on, 181-182. Germersheim, death of Radolph of Hapsburg at, 1291, 11. 235. Gesnerus, Conradus, learned man of Zurich, on Petrus Aponus, 1. 280 ; Bibliotheca by, 394; 11. 98, in. Ghetto, the, in Venice, description of 1. 370 ; in Verona, 11. 31. Gisela, daughter of Lotharius, king of France, wife of Conrad II., 11. 234. Gislebertus, Dukeof Lorraine, drowned near Andernach, 11. 307. Glareanus, Henricus, professor at Basle, 11. 171. Glass, Venetian, I. 387. Godard, mountain, highest Alpine mountain, 11. 176. Godfrey, Duke of Bouillon, and the first Crusade, 1094, 11. 238. Golden Lyon, Thomas Coryat's inn at Lower Baden, 11. 202. Gondolas, description of, I. 313. Gonzaga, Vicentius, Duke of Mantua, I. 231 ; palace of, 265. Gonzaga, William, father of Vincentius Gonzaga, 11. 8. Goodier, Henry, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 28. Gorcom, see Gorkum. Goricia, Meinhard, Earl of, II. 144. Gorkum, on the Waell, Thomas Coryat at, II. 361 ; beauty of, 362. Gospel of S. Mark, kept in Venice, I. 355- Gothofredus, Dionysius, civil lawyer in Heidelberg, II. 230. Goths in Piedmont, I. 230. Gowns worn by the Venetian nobility, Granson, battle of, Swiss at, 1476, I. 192. Gratarolus, Gulielmus, famous preacher of Bergamo, 11. 60 ; learned man of Basle, 171. Gratian, Emperor, 11. 1 53 ; and the name of Amiens, 1. 161 ; Germans defeated by, near Strasburg, 11. 193. Graveling, M. de Rosne, governor of, 1. 156. Gregory VII., or Hildebrand, Pope, and the golden crown of Rodolphus, Earl of Rheinfelden, 11. 151; deposed by the fourth Council of Worms, 11. 265. Grenoble, or Gratianopolis, in Dol- phinie, Court of Parliament, 1. 179. Griffin, George, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 101. Grimanno, Marino, Duke of Venice in Thomas Coryat's time, 1. 309 ; in Coryat's time, his picture, 425. Grimannus, Cardinal, patriarch of Aquileia, I. 321. Grimston, Edward, history of the Netherlands by, 11. 371. Grisons, see Rhaetia. Gritti, Peter, Venetian palace of, II. 15. Groninga, Rodolphus Agricola, born at, II. 227. Gruterus, Janus, bibliothecary or librarian of the Palatine library, 11. 210, 230. Gryn, Hermannus, and the slaying of the lion, in Cologne, 11. 344. Grynaeus, Joannes Jacobus, of Basle, works of, 11. 168. Grynaeus, Simon, of Basle, II. 168. Gualterus, Rodolphus, learned man of Zurich, 11. 98, 111. Guard, French, I. 191. Guasto, Albertus, Marquess of, and the arsenal of Venice, 1. 358 ; his opinion on Venice, 427. Guasto or Waste plot in Italy, 11. 2. Guerilio, last archbishop of Worms, deposed by Pepin, king of France, 11. 260. Guerilius, Joannes, stationer in Venice, friend to Thomas Coryat, I. 367. Guido, Duke of Spoleto, 11. 56. Guinterius, Joannes, learned man of Strasburg, 11. 195 ; born at Ander nach, 306. Guise, Duke of, his brother, and Thomas Coryat at Lyons, I. 213. 419 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Gulick, see Menapii. Gulielmus, bishop of Worms in Coryat's time, II. 257, 261. Gunterus, Earl, competitor of Charles IV. for the German empire, II. 292. Gyfford, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 67-69. Gymnosophist, meaning of, I. 58, note. Habspurg, John of, prisoner at Zurich, 1350, 11. 108. Habspurg, Rodolphus de, 11. 147. Hagk, Christopher, Coryat's fellow- traveller, 11. 350. Hair, dying of the, in Venice, I. 401. Halles, salt mines at, 11. 144. Halswell, Robert, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 67. Harrington, John, of Bath, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 27. Hartmannus, son of Empress Anna, 11. 159 note. Harvests, two in Italy, 1. 268 ; in Ger many, 11. 206. Hassia, Landgraviat of Germany, 11. 301 note. Hatto, archbishop of Mayence, history of, 914, 11. 297. Haunschildt, George, scholar of Her mannus Kirchnerus, I. 122. Health, bills of, required to travel into Italy, 1. 214. Hedio, Gaspar, reformer in Strasburg, 11. 194. Heidelberg by the Neckar, 11. 154; Scaliger's verses on, 207 ; etymologies of, 208 ; churches of, 209 ; distance from, to Frankfort, 376. Helena, town near the Pyrenees, 11. 91- Helena, Empress, and the bodies of the Magi, 11. 329. Helenopolis, see Frankfort. Hellespontia, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. Helmichildus and Queen Rosamund, 11. 38. Helvetia, see Switzerland. Henneberg, Margarite, wife of Her mannus, Earl of, 11. 369. Henricpeter, Sebastian, printer of Basle, 11. 172. Henry II., King of France, and the Louvre, 1. 173. Henry 1 1., the Saint, German Em peror, II. 225. Henry III., king of France, and the Order of the Holy Ghost, I. 193 ; at Venice, 1574, I. 309; testimony of, 338 ; Venetian gentleman, 1574, 415. Henry III., the Black, German Em peror, cathedral of Spires finished by, 11. 233 ; son of Conrad II., 11. 234 ; and the third Council of Worms, 1051, 11. 265. Henry IV., King of France, at Rouen, 1. 165 ; death of, 168 ; his picture in Venice, 425. Henry IV., the elder, Emperor of Germany, son of Henry III. and Agnes, 11. 234 ; and the fourth Council of Worms, 1076, II. 265. Henry V., the younger, Emperor of Germany, son of Henry IV. and Bertha, 11. 234 ; and the fifth Council of Worms, 1122, 11. 265. Henry VII., Emperor of Germany, and John of Swabia at Pisa, II. 146. Henry, Prince of Wales, dedicatory epistle to, by Thomas Coryat, 1. 1-6 ; his picture in Venice, 1. 426 ; Thomas Coryat to, II. 379. Henry, last Earl of Baden, 1180, II. 138. Heraclea, town of, dwelling-place of the first Dukes of Venice, I. 418. Herbert, William, George Coryat in memory of, 11. 386 f. Herborne, John Piscator at, II. 195. Hercinia or Nigra Sylva, Wiesa's spring from, II. 155. Hercules, travels of, I. 135. Hercules, Alemmanus, surname of, 11. 179. Hermannus, first Marquess of Baden, 1 1 53, 11. 200. Hermenstein Castle, near Coblenz, II. 306. Hervagius, Joannes, printer at Basle, 11. 172. Hildegardis, Lady, daughter of king Ludovicus, 11. 99. Hildegardis, S., nun at Bingen, friend of S. Bernard, 11 80, 11. 296 ; works of, 297. Hildegardis, wife of Charles the Great and mother of Ludovicus Pius, II. 282. 420 INDEX Hinderhove, or baths of Baden, II. I39-H3- Hippolytus, Lord President of the Princes' Chancery Court, verses de dicated to, II. 221-223. History, Ecclesiastical, of Eusebius, 11. 168. Hochberg, title of the Marquesses of Baden, 11. 200 ; Otto, Marquess of, death of, 11. 148. Hoestenius, Henry, printer of the university of Leyden, 11. 221. ~ Holland, Hugo, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 43-49 ; friend of Thomas Coryat, 425. Holland, meaning of, 11. 362. Honorius, Emperor, 409, I. 305. Horses of the King of France at Fontainebleau, 1. 190 ; used to draw boats on the Rhine, II. 361. Hortmannus, last earl of Kyburg, ^ 1260, 11. 138. Hoskins, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 58-61. Hospinianus, Rodolphus, learned man of Zurich, 11. 95 ; Thomas Coryat's epistle to, 123-126. Hotoman, Francis, epitaph of, at Basle, II. 162-164. Houses, Venetian, 1. 307 ; at Spira, description of, II. 232. Hughes, Richard, panegric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 119. Humbertus, Bishop, and the stone bridge over the Arar, I. 205. Iaxus river, tributary of the Neckar, II. 208. Ilia, river in plain of Strasburg, 11. 183. Imbert, or Hubert, Dauphin of Vien- nois and Philip VI.,' 1328, I. 194. Ingelheim Palace, Charles the Great at, 11. 217 ; Court at, 265. Intuergi, people dwelling formerly in Palatinate, 11. 224. Irenaeus, first bishop of Lyons, 1. 209 ; n. 168. Irene, Empress, and the sacred images, 1. 368. Irenicus, Francis, historiographer, born at Etlingen, 11. 203. Irmengardis, first wife of Ludovicus Pius, II. 293. Isabella, daughter of King John of England, marriage of Emperor Frederick II. with, 1235, 11. 266. Isella, branch of the Rhine, 11. 177. Isingrius, Michael, printer of Basle, 11. 166, 172. Isota Nigarola, learned woman of Verona, 11. 39. Italians, courtesy of, to foreigners, 11. 13. Italy, Thomas Coryat in, I. 227, 428. Jackson, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 96. Jacobus, Cardinal, epistle from Angelus Politianus to, 11. 177. James I., King of England, his picture in Venice, I. 425, 426. James, Thomas, Librarian of the Bodleian Library at Oxford in Coryat's time, 11. 211. Jason, travels of, 1. 132. Jesuits' College at Lyons, description of, 1. 209 ; in Chambery, 217 ; at Turin, 232 ; in Spires, 11. 249. Jews in Venice, description of, I. 372. Joan, Pope, born at Mayence, 11. 282. Joannes Baptista, bishop of Bergamo, palace of, II. 53. John, Don, and the battle of Lepanto, 1. 289, 344. John, Duke of Swabia, and the murder of Emperor Albert, 11. 144 ; punish ment of, 146. John, earl of Habspurg, prisoner at Zurich, 1350, 11. 108. Jonson, Ben, character of Thomas Coryat by, 1. 16-18 ; acrostic on Thomas Coryat by, 19. Jones, Inigo, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 64-65. Jovius, Paulus, study of, on Lago di Como, 11. 64. Jucundus, bishop of Paris, I. 171. Judith, Countess, wife of Hermannus, Marquess of Baden, 11. 200. Juelli, John, bishop of Salisbury, epi taph of, by George Coryat, 11. 403. Julian the Apostate, Ammanianus Mar ceUinus, soldier of, 11. 153 ; battle of, with some German kings, near Strasburg, 360, 193; Mayence bridge, built by, 280. Junius, Adrianus, monuments of, in Middleborough Church, 11. 373. 421 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Junius, Francis, learned man of Hei delberg, n. 229. Jura Mountain, Byrsa's spring from, II. 155. Justinian, I., Emperor, c. 550, I. 273. Justinus, Emperor, and Narses, I. 237. Justinus, martyr at Lyons, I. 209. Justus, Augustinus, palace of, in Verona, II. 35. Keinperger, Jonas, head of the Jesuits in Spires and Thomas Coryat, 11. 249. Kelsterbach, on the Rhine, II. 287. Kemerer, Eckenbertus, founder and first abbot of Franckendal monas tery, c. 1 1 19, 11. 252. Kicherman, Bartholomew, philoso pher at Heidelberg, 11. 230. Kigele, Joannes, architect in Worms, II. 262. Kingman, Robert, Englishman settled in Strasburg, 11. 183. Kings, the Three, of Cologne, II. 315 ; images of, 317 ; history of, Latin, 318-325 ; English, 325-330. Kiningsfelden, monastery of, near Brooke, II. 139 ; Thomas Coryat at, 143 ; possession of Berne, 143 ; meaning of name, 11. 144. Kintzgus, river, in plain of Strasburg, 11. 183. Kirchnerus of Marpurg, Hermannus, orations by, I. 4, 11, 122-148; in praise of travel in Germany, 11. 71-86. Knighthood, orders of, I. 193. Koningsperg, birth-place of Christopher Hagk, 11. 350. Kyburg, Earls of, and the Swiss con federation, 11. 103 ; and the earldom of Baden, 138. La Bevelaque, Thomas Coryat at, I. 269. La Chambre, Thomas Coryat at, I. 223. La Charite', Thomas Coryat at, I. 198. Ladenburgum, palace of, residence of the bishops of Worms, 11. 257. La Fere, in Picardie, Archduke Albert at, 1. 156. Lahnstein on the Rhine, 11. 305. Langres, Voga Hill, near, 1. 171 ; spring of the Mosella at, 11. 305. Larius, Lacus, or Lake Como, meaning of name of, II. 65. Lasnebourg, or Lanslebourg, Thomas Coryat at, I. 224. La Tour du Pin, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 215. Laudun, Monastery of, Margarite of Henneberg, buried in, 11. 369. Lauredanus, Leonardus, Duke of Venice, tomb and epitaph of, 1. 362. Lauredanus, Peter, Duke of Venice, 1568, 1. 361. Lavaterus, Ludovicus, learned man of Zurich, 11. 98, 1 1 1. Lecca, branch of the Rhine, 11. 177. Leicester, Earl of, mint of Dordrecht, built by, 11. 366 ; the Doole, built by, 367 ; George Coryat to, 396 f. Lemnius, Levinus, learned man of Zirixee, 11. 371. Leo, Pope, his ambassadors to Ger many, 1. 133. Leo III., Greek Emperor, and the sacred images, I. 368. Leo IX., Pope, and the third council of Worms, 1051, 11. 265. Leopold, Duke of Austria and the Swiss confederation, 11. 103 ; and the murderers of Emperor Albert, 146 ; buried at Brooke Monastery, 147 ; wars and death of, 148. Lepanto in Greece, Don John of Austria, at the battle of, I. 289, 344. Lewis 1 1, of Germany, battle of Charles the Bald with, at Andernach, 11. 306. Lewknor, Ludovic, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 27-28. Lezere, lake or river in Savoy, I. 205, 221. Library of Mayence, 11. 279 ; in Holy Ghost Church, Heidelberg, 209. Libyca, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 259. Liege, death of Henry IV. at, 1106, 11. 234. Lieutenant of the Castle, of the land cities, subject to Venice, I. 420. Limacus river at Baden, 11. 137 ; Zurich on, 154. Lime tree, description of a, in Basle, 11. 169. Lindanus, Gulielmus, learned man of Dordrecht, bishop of Ruremunda, II. 368. Linga river, near Dordrecht, 11. 365. 422 INDEX Lingelsemius, Doctor of Civil Law at Heidelberg, and Thomas Coryat, II. 214, 230. Liniago, in the signiory of Venice, I. 269. Lintz, on the Rhine, death of Frederick III. at, 1493, 11. 307. Lio, castle for soldiers of Venice, I. 388. Lippia, river, at Cleve, 11. 353. Lipsius, Justus, friend of James Gruterus in Heidelberg, 11. 210. Lir Lake, near Splugen Mountain, II. 67. Litenawe, Thomas Coryat at, II. 196. Liver, Venetian coin, value of, I. 389 ; silver coin, 422. Livy, three statues of, at Padua, I. 275, 277, 278 ; his house, 281-285. Loches, Lodowic, Duke of Milan, prisoner at, 1 500, I. 239. Lodi, Thomas Coryat at, I. 254. Lodowic, Duke of Milan, and the Swiss and French armies at Novara, 1500, 1. 239. Loire, river in France, I. 197. Loiseau de Tourval, Jean, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 1 1 1- "3- Lombardy, past history of, 1. 237 ; fertility of, 238. London, distance from, to Dover, I. 301 ; Thomas Coryat's return to, 11. 375 ; distance from, to Odcombe, 376. Longinus, first exarch of Ravenna and Queen Rosamund, 11. 38. Longobards in Piedmont, 1. 230 ; past history of the, 237. Longolius, Christopher, of Padua, I. 298. Lotharius, Emperor, and the Nor manes, 1. 197. Loure, see Louvre. Louvre, description of the palace of, I- 173- Loyola, Ignatius, founder of the Jesuits, 11. 360. Lucerne, an ally of Zurich, II. 108 ; on the Ursula, 154. Lucie Fesina, near Padua, I. 300, 304- Lucius III., Pope, monument of, in Verona Cathedral, 11. 32. Ludolphus, son of Otho the Great, battle of, with his father 11. 280 ; death of, 281. Ludovica, wife of Frederick IV, Count Palatine, II. 225. Ludovicus 1 1., surnamed Germanicus, Emperor, and the second council of Worms, 868, 11., 265, death of, at Frankfort, 293. Ludovicus Pius, Emperor, and the first Council of Worms, 829, 11. 265 ; death of, at Mayence, 282. Ludovicus, king of Italy, grandson of Charles the Bald, 11. 38. Ludovicus, Count Palatine, 1319, 11. 212; and Joannes Dalburgius, his counsellor, 228. Ludovicus, dauphin of France (after wards Louis XI.) and the Helve tians, near Basle, II. 173. Lugarda, wife of Conrad the Wise II. 267. Lutetia, meaning of, I. 171. Luther, Martin, and the Wittemberg university, 11. 194. Lycosthenes, Conradus, professor at Basle, 11. 171. Lycurgus, travels of, I. 135. Lycus, river in Rhetia, 11. 63. Lyons, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 202-214 > Julius Caesar Scaliger's hexastichon on, 203 ; Pontius Pilate's exile and death at, 207 ; distance from, to Turin, 301 ; on the Arar and Rho- danus, 11. 154. Macaronicon, by John Donne, I. 39. Maccabees, martyrdom of the, 11. 340. Magantia, Alexander, work of, in Vicenza, II. 12. Magi, see Kings of Cologne. Magnentius, Emperor, proclaimed at Chur, II. 91. Magnus, statue of, in Verona, 11. 28. Maine, river, at Frankfort, 11. 284. Malomocco, haven of Venice, 1. 304 ; dwelling-place of the first Dukes of Venice, near, I. 418. Malta or Melita, S. Paul and the viper at, 1. 412. Mammea, mother of Alexander Severus, death of, at Mayence, 11. 281. Mandevile, Sir John, 'English Ulysses,' I- 3°3- 423 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Manes, the heretic martyr in Persia, I- 363- Mannus, son of Tuisco, 11. 179. Mantua, Vicentius Gonzaga, Duke of, I. 231 ; Thomas Coryat at, 261 ; Scaliger's verses on, 262 ; birth-place of Virgil, 263. MarceUinus, Ammanianus, soldier of Julian the Apostate, II. 152 ; on the etymology of Palatinate, II. 224. Marcomirus, king of France, and Cologne, II. 313. Marcus Aurelius, see Antoninus. Margarita, ./Emiliana, monastery, built by, near Venice, I. 387, 406. Margarite, wife of Hermannus, earl of Henneberg, buried in Laudun monastery, 11. 369. Maria Antiqua, church in Verona, 11. 27. Maristella, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 136. Market place of Brescia, 11. 43 ; at Chur, 91 ; in Verona, 29. Maron, a guide or conductor in Italy, 1. 226. Marot, French poet, 1. 31 note, 42 note. Marpurg, university of, 11. 71. Martin, Richard, sonnet to Thomas Coryat by, I. 39 ; quotation from a letter of, to Thomas Coryat, 239 ; letter from, to Sir Henry Wotton, 1608, 377-379- Martock Manor, near Odcombe, in Somersetshire, 11. 203. Martyr, Peter, the Vermilian, learned man of Zurich, 11. 98. Martyrs of Lyons, history of, by Euse bius, bishop of Caesarea, 1. 207 ; of Brescia, 11. 46 ; of Zurich, 97 ; at Mayence, 282 ; Theban, buried in S. Gereon's Church, Cologne, 342. Mary, Virgin, picture of, by S. Luke, the Evangelist, kept in Venice, 1.355. Masauc, Earl of, and the confederation of Rhetia, 1424, 11. 90. Mattiaci, former inhabitantsof Zeeland, II. 372. Maturus, martyr at Lyons, I. 207. Maurice of Orange, commander of the Netherland armies, 11. 225 ; towns sacked by, 11. 352. Mauritius, Prince, at Cassels, and the Persian ambassadors, 11. 84. Maurocenus, Francis, last bishop of Brescia in Coryat's time, II. 43. Maurocenus, Vincentius, Venetian knight, monument of, I. 382. Maurus, Rabanus, abbot of Fulda, 11. 275. Maximilian I., Emperor, and Verona, 11. 29. Maximilian 1 1., statue of, in the Senate House of Worms, II. 262. Maximinus and the murder of Alex ander Severus at Mayence, 11. 281. Maximus, bishop of Turin, 420, 1. 232. Mayence, 11. 1 54 ; prefect of, and the city of Worms, II. 263 ; description of, 269 f. Maze, river in Gelderland, 11. 357. Medicis, Katharine de, description of her monument at S. Denis, I. 184. Megander, Gaspar, learned man of Zurich, 11. m. Meinhard, Earl of Tyrol and Goricia, 11. 144. Mejus, Octavianus, Protestant preacher in Chiavenna, II. 65. Melancthon, Philip, his opinion on the etymology of Alemannia, 11. 179 ; reformed preacher, 335 ; on Deutz, 348 ; verses on the river Maine, 285. Melchior, first king, offers gold, 11. 326. Meleager, epigram of, I. 229. Melissus, Paulus, poet and knight Palatine at Heidelberg, 11. 230. Menapii, former inhabitants of Gelder land, 11. 357. Meniana, or italian terrace, I. 307. Mentz, see Mayence. Mercator, Gerardus, buried at Duys burg, 11. 351. Merceria, street in Venice, I. 328. Mercury^ temple in Spires, II. 250 ; demolished by Dagobert, 251. Merva river, near Dordrecht, 11. 365. MeteUus, Middleborough founded by, 11. 372. Mezolt, near Ancone Mountain, 11. 61. Micyllus, Jacobus, learned man of Strasburg, 11. 195 ; of Strasburg, to Joachimus Camerarius of Heidel berg, 215. Middleborough in Walcheren island, II. 372 ; founded by MeteUus, 372 ; church, 373. 424 INDEX Milan, Dukedom of, Spanish posses- ¦ sion, I. 239. Milan, Scaliger's verses on, Thomas Coryat at, I. 240; history of the foundation of, 241 ; Roman em perors in, 251; governors of, 253; distance from, to Padua, 301 ; in Emperor Martin's time, ancl Attila, 3°5- Milberg Castle at Baden, 11. 199, 206. Mimlingus river, tributary of the Maine, 11. 285. Mincius river, I. 264. Mint of S. Mark's in Venice, descrip tion of, 1. 332 ; of Dordrecht, built by the Earl of Leicester, II. 366. Mirandula, birth-place of Joannes Picus, 1. 261. Misnia, Theodorus, Marquess of, and Frederick Barbarossa, 11 66, I. 350. Mithridates, travels of, to Cappadocia, II. 74- Mocenigus, Duke of Venice, and Henry III., King of France, 1574, I-4I5- Modena, Duke of, I. 231. Modoetia, iron crown of the Lombard kings at, 1. 252. Moenus river, see Maine. Mogonus, see Maine. Moguntia, or Moguntiacum, see May ence. Molino, Clarissimo of Venice, I. 293. Molinus, Peter, Protestant preacher at Charenton, I. 185. ^Momford, Thomas, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 77-78. Monasteries at Amiens, I. 164 ; at Milan, 246 ; of Benedictine monks in Padua, description of, 287 ; of Benedictines in Venice, 380 ; at Lyons, 210 ; built by Margarita /Emiliana, near Venice, 387, 406 ; of Camaldulenses, near Verona, II. 16 ; in Verona, 35 ; of Carthusian monks at Coblenz, 305 ; of Domini cans in Vicenza, 4 ; of Kiningsfelden, near Brooke, 139 ; Thomas Coryat at, 143 ; possession of Berna, 143 ; monks and nuns, founded by Em press Elizabeth, 147. Money, Venetian, I. 422. Monostiches by Thomas Edwards, quotation from, 11. 56. Monsferratus, marquesses of, kings of Italy, 1. 230. Montacute, Sir Edward Philippes of, II. 310. Montargis, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 196. Montigny, M. de, Protestant preacher at Charenton, 1. 185. Montmelian, strong castle at, I. 219. Montmorency, M. de, high constable of France, 1. 169. Montrescut, Porte de, at Amiens, 1. 166. Montreuil, Thomas Coryat at, I. 158 ; description of, 159. Monuments in Holy Ghost Church, Heidelberg, 11. 212 ; in Spires cathedral, 233 ; to bishops of Spires, in the cathedral, 246-247. Moore, Dr., in Padua, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 299. Morata, Olympia Fulvia, learned Italian woman at Heidelberg, 11. 229. Morbinio in Rhetia, 11. 63. Mosa river, near Dordrecht, 11. 365. Mosbach, George Eucharius, architect in Worms, 11. 262. Mosella, the, 11. 154 ; spring of, at Langres, 305. Moulins, description of a fair at, I. 201. Mountebanks, 1. 267 ; in Venice, 409. Mount Falcon, near Paris, gallows on, 1. 170. Mowse Turn, in the Rhine, 11. 298. Munatius Plancus, cities founded by, I. 203. Munster, Sebastian, Cosmography by, 1. 421 ; II. 109 ; quotation from, 152, 153; professor at Basle, 171 ; learned man of Heidelberg, 229 ; on Deutz, 348 ; etymology of the word Spires, 232 ; Cosmography and the Jesuits of Spires, 249. Murano, fabrication of Venetian glass at, 1. 387. Music, beautiful, in Venice, I. 390. Musto, Paulo jEmilio, and the epitaph of Antenor, I. 271. Naha river, tributary of the Rhine, II. 295. Nancy, battle of, between Charles, Duke of Burgundy and the Swiss, 1477, H- 103. 425 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Narses, Eunuch, and the coming of the Longobards in Italy, I. 237 ; Padua repaired by, c. 550, I. 273. Naupactus, see Lepanto. Neccarus, see Neckar. Neckar river, at Heidelberg, 11. 154, 208. Nemetes, Spires inhabited by people called, 11. 231. Nemetum, see Spires. Neobourg on the Rhine, II. 176. Neomagus, see Nimeguen.; Netherlands, Thomas Coryat in the, 11. 311-376; eating customs in the, 360 ; overfloodings of, 364. Nevers, Thomas Coryat at, his de scription of, I. 198-200. Nevill, Henry, of Abergavenny, pane gyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 26. Nicaea, council of, in Bithynia, I. 368. Nicoletis, Joannes, friend of Thomas Coryat in Vicenza, II. 13. Nicrus, see Neckar. Nilus, crocodiles in, I. 291. Nimeguen by the Wahalis, II. 154; Thomas Coryat at, 357 ; distance from, to Dordrecht, 376 ; founder of Worms, 256. Ninus, king of the Assyrians, II. 183, 256. Noah, Tuisco, son of, and Arezia, 11. 178. Norimberg, the Pegnetius river at, 11. 285. Normanus at Cologne, 11. 348. Notre-Dame of Paris, see Church. Novalaise, in Piedmont, 1. 225. Novara, first city of the dukedom of Milan, 1. 239 ; battle between French and Swiss at, 1 500, 239. Noviomagus, see Nimeguen. Nunneries, at Amiens, I. 163; at Brescia built by King Desiderius, 750, 11. 45 ; at Zurich, founded by Ludovicus, king of Germany, 853, 99. Odcombe, distance from, to London, 1. 301 ; to Venice, II. 376. Olevian, Gaspar, preacher at Heidel berg, 11. 229. Olivet, representation of Mount, in the cloister of Spires cathedral, 11. 248. Ome, German measure, 11. 219. Operinus, Joannes, printer of Basle, 11. 172. Oppenheim, near Worms, II. 266 ; death of Rupertus, king of the Romans at, 268 ; S. Catherine's Church in, 268. Ostriches, description of, I. 190. Otho, Viscount of Milan, his single combat with Volucis, I. 245. Otho the Great, battle of, with his son Ludolphus, 11. 280 ; with Eber- hardus, at Andernach, 307. Owen, John, epigram and distichon on Thomas Coryat by, I. 74. Padua, built by Antenor, I. 138, 270 ; Scaliger's decastichon on, descrip tion of, 270 ; past history of, 273 ; monuments of, 281 ; distance from, to Venice, 301 ; in Emperor Mar tian's time, and Attila, 305 ; subject to Venice, 420 ; Lord Wentworth and Thomas Coryat at, II. 1. Padus, see Po. Page, Samuel, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 76-77. Pajellus, Livius, orator of Vicenza, 11. 8. Palace of the Viscounts of Milan, description of, 1. 245 ; of the Dukes of Mantua, 265 ; of Padua, descrip tion of, 274 ; of the bishop of Padua, 293 ; of Earl Leonardus Walmarana in Vicenza, 11. 4, 5 ; of Odoricus Capra, 9, 11 ; of the Scaligers, at Verona, 25 ; of Count Augustinus Justus in Verona, 35 ; of Brescia, 41 ; palaces of Brescia, 46 ; of the bishop of Bergamo, 53 ; of the prince at Heidelberg, 214 ; of the bishop of Worms, 257. Palaces in Venice, 1. 308 ; of the Duke of Venice, 318 ; description of, 333. Palatinate, Lower, Heidelberg, metro politan city of, 11. 207. Palatine princes, titles of, 11. 223 ; etymology of, 224. Palavicino, Sir Horatio, II. 62. Palaeologus, Constantine, last Christian Emperor of Constantinople, his opinions on Padua, 1453, 1. 274. Palladio, Andrea, architect of Vicenza theatre, 11. 9. Palma Castle in Forum Julii, Venetian possession, 1. 420. 426 INDEX Panicke, Italian corn, I. 234. Pannonia, the Longobards in, I. 237. Pantaleon, Henry, philosopher and physician of Basle, at Baden, 11. 142 ; epitaph of, at Basle, 162. Panuinius, Onuphrius, friar, and Pope Joan, II. 282. Papia, capital of the Longobardes, 1. 238. Pareus, David, professor of divinity in Heidelberg, 11. 230. Paris, Thomas Coryat at, I. 170-182 ; Scaliger's verses in praise of, 170 ; distance from, to Lyons, 301 ; on the Sequana, II. 154. Participitius, Angelus, Duke of Venice, builds the palace of the Dukes, 809, I- 333- Paul, Friar, of the Order of Servites, I. 380. Paulus, statue of, at Padua, 1. 279. Pavia, 1. 238 ; Charles V. and Francis I. at, 1. 255. Pavy, see Pavia. Pawlet, John, of George Henton, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 62. ^SPayton, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 29. ^Peacham, Henry, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 113- 115. Pearch, measure, 11. 24. Peel, Antony, hanged in effigy, I. 168. Pegnetius river, tributary of the Maine, 11. 285. Pellicanus, Conradus, learned man of Heidelberg, 11. 229. Pepin, King, and S. Zeno's monument in Verona cathedral, 11. 33 ; monu ment of, 33 ; and the ecclesiastical affairs of Germany, 260 ; of France, residence of, at Worms, 764, 264. Persica, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 259. Peschiera, Venetian fort at, 11. 39. Petrarch, Francis, canon of Padua, I. 295 ; his library left to the Senate of Venice, 321. Petrengo, Vincentius de, Dominican Friar of Bergamo, and Thomas Coryat, II. 57. Peucerus, Gaspar, on the etymology of Sabaudi, 1. 218 ; etymology of the word Spires, II. 232 ; on the etymo logy of Palatine, 11. 224. Pfaltz, castle in the Rhine, 11. 224, Phaesulae, near Florence, I. 305. Philip Augustus, and the Louvre, c. 1214, 1. 173. Philip II., king of Spain, his picture in Venice, 1. 425. Philip VI. of Valois, King of France, and the title of Dauphin, 1328, I. 194. Philip, twenty-fourth German Em peror, son of Frederick Barbarossa and Beatrix, 11. 235 ; Strasburg taken by, 1200, 11. 193. Philip, Count Palatine, and the palace of Heidelberg, 11. 217. Philippes, Sir Edward, . master of the rolls, 11. 310. Philippus Arabs, first Christian em peror, death of, at Verona, 11. 37. Phillips, Robert, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 30-31. Phillips, Sir Edward, Thomas Coryat's patron, 1. 317 ; 11. 370. Phrygia, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. Picardy, province of, I. 157. Pickeney, see Picquigny. Picquigny, in Picardy, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 160, 164. Picus, see Mirandula. Piersey, John, bishop of Salisbury, archbishop of York, epitaph of, by George Coryat, II. 402. Pisa, in Etruria, Henry VII., emperor of Germany at, 11. 146. Piscator, Joannes, learned man of Strasburg, 11. 195, Pius II., Pope, epitaph by, 11. 166-167; university of Basle founded by, 170. Pizighiton, Francis I., king of France, prisoner at, I. 255. Plancus, Munatius, Augusta Raura corum built by, II. 152 ; statue of, in Basle, 156. Plato, travels of, I. 128; travels of, to Egypt, 11. 74. Plinius Secundas, elogium of, in Como, 11. 64. Plutarch, quotation from, I. 251, 321. Po, or Padus, or Eridanus, river in Turin, I. 230. Podesta, Magistrate, ruling the land cities subject to Venice, I. 419. Poggios, the Florentine, 11. 81, 143, 349- 427 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Polanus, Amandus, a Polensdorf of Basle, II. 167. Politianus, Angelus, epistle from, to Cardinal Jacobus, 11. 177. Polma, Huldricus de, and the murder of Emperor Albert, II. 145 ; death of, at Basle, 146. Polycarpus, bishop of Smyrna, I. 209. Polyodopolis, Attila's name for Stras burg, 11. 184. Pompey, travels of, I. 138. Ponds, carp, at Fontainebleau, I. 187. Pontanus, Ludovicus, at the council of Basle, 1439, 11. 166. Pont de Beauvoisin, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 215. Pont de Nieullet, at Calais, I. 156. Ponte de Rialto, description of, I. 309. Pontius Pilate, exile and death of, at Lyons, I. 207. Poole, Henry, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 29-30. Portraits in palace of Augustinus Justus, II. 35. Posthuma fragmenta poematum of George Coryat, 11. 377-407. Pots, Mr., preacher at Flushing, 11. 375- Praepositura, sacked by freebooters, 11. 309. Praetorium of Vicenza, description of, 11. 3. Prefects, Roman, instituted by Julius Caesar in Gaul, 11. 283. Prettigoia, confederation of Rhaetia, signed at, 1470, II. 90. Prince Royall, the English ship, I. 359. Prison, State, in Venice, I. 357. Procurator of S. Mark, dignity in Venice, I. 419. Prosdocimus, first apostle of Padua, I. 293 ; first apostle of Vicenza, II. 13. Psalms, preface to a book of, translated by George Coryat, 11. 385. Ptolomaeus, Geographie by, II. 256. Puckering, John, George Coryat to, 11. 400. Pulpit in Spires cathedral, 11. 244-246. Pulpits in Mayence cathedral, 11. 273. Punishments in Switzerland, 11. 107. Pythagoras, travels of, to Italy, 11. 74. Quin, Walter, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 54-56. Radagisus, king of the Goths in Italy, I. 305. Ragatz in Switzerland, 11. 92. Ramus, Peter, quotation from, II. 84. Rapperswyl, John of Habspurg at, II. 108. Rathaus in Cologne, description of, 11. 343- Ravilliacke, murderer of Henry IV., 1. 168. Rees, Coryat at, II. 350 ; church of, 355- Regius, Raphael, of Padua, I. 298. Ramagan, sacked by freebooters, II. 3°9- Rezuns, Baron of, and the confedera tion of Rhetia, 1424, 11. 90. Rhaetia, geographical divisions of, 11. 63 ; Thomas Coryat at, 63-70, 87-88 ; confederations of, 90. Rhaetus, king of Tuscia, and the name of Rhetia, 11. 63. Rheinfelden city, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 151. Rhenanus, Beatus, on the etymology of Palatinate, 11. 224. Rhene-Barke, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 352. Rhenes in Little Britaine, Court of Parliament, I. 179. Rhine, at Basle, 11. 153; Thomas Coryat on, 176 ; cataract or water falls on the, 302 ; bishoprics on the left side of the, 335 ; river in Gelder land, 357. Rhine Valley and River, 11. 68, 87. Rhodanus river, I. 205 ; II. 154. Rialto, Joannes Bonus, first dweller of the, in Venice, 1. 304 ; Ponte de, 309 ; or Exchange of Venice, 312 ; temporary dwelling-place of some Dukes of Venice, 418. Rice-bank at Calais, I. 155. Richard I., king of England, elected Emperor of Germany at Worms, II. 266 ; and the tolls and taxes in Germany, 295 ; Boppard town cap tured by, 304. Richlindus, wife of Eckenbertus Kemerer, first Abbess of the Franc- kendal monastery, 11. 252. Richmond, Robert, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 50-54. Ridouts, or forts near the Waell, 11. 363. 428 INDEX Risus river, II. 144. Rivole, or Rivoli, Thomas Coryat at, I. 227. Robertellus, Francis, of Padua, 1. 298. Roch Melow or Molom, high moun tain near Novalaise, I. 225. Rodolph, eldest son of Emperor Albert, 11. 144. Rodolph 1 1., statue of, in the Senate House of Worms, 11. 262. Rodolphus, Count Palatine, 1209, II. 212. Rodolphus, Duke of Swabia, Earl of Rheinfelden, 11. 151. Rodolphus, Earl of Hapsburg, king of the Romans, 11. 138 ; 32nd German Emperor, 235 ; and the conquest of Turlowe, 205. Romans, travels of, to Marseilles, 11. 74- - Rooke, George, Thomas Coryat's friend, 1. 272 ; Thomas Coryat's friend at Padua, 11. 1. Rosamund, Queen, 11. 38. Rosne, M. de, governor of Graveling, 1. 156. Rotenburg, the Tuberus river at, 11. 285. Rouen in Normandy, Court of Parlia ment, 1. 179. SRow, Sir Henry, Lord Mayor of London, II. 293. **-Row, Thomas, and Thomas Coryat at Frankfort, 11. 293. Rowland, and the Cleft Rock, near S. George's, 1. 227. Roy, M. de la, French Protestant, and Thomas Coryat, I. 180. Rudiger, bishop of Spires, II. 23,1. Rufach in Alsatia, 11. 181. Ruffinus, II. 168. Rugia Island, and the Longobards, 1. 237. Rupelmunda, birthplace of Mercator, 11. 351. Rupertus, duke of Alemanny and the nunnery of Zurich, II. 99. Rupertus, the elder, founder of the church of the Holy Ghost, and of the university, Heidelberg, c. 1346, 11. 212, 227 ; king of the Romans, death of, at Oppenheim, 11. 268. Ruremunda, Lindanus, Bishop of, II. 368. Rusticus, disciple of S. Denis, I. 169 ; shrine of, 185. S. Albanus Church at Mayence, 11. 281. S. Ambrose, bishop of Milan, and Theodosius I., I. 242. S. Andr^, Thomas Coryat at, I. 223. S. Anthony of Padua, I. 286. S. ApoUinaris, bishop of Ravenna, first apostle of Brescia, 119, 11. 46 ; near Basle, 172. S. Barnabas, Milan converted to Christianity by, 1. 244 ; first apostle of Bergamo and Milan, 11. 49. S. Barthelmew, martyr in Albania, I- 363- S. Bartholomew's Church in Frank fort, II. 289. S. Bernard, abbot of Claraval in Bur gundy, his salutation to the Virgin, 11. 236-237 ; his letter to the Bishop of Spires about the first Crusade, 1094, 238 ; translation of his letter to the Bishop of Spires, 239-244 ; friendship of, with Hildegardis, 296. S. Brixe, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 168. S. Croce, quarter in Venice, 1. 306. S. Denis, first apostle of the Gauls, 1. 169 ; shrine of, near Paris, Thomas Coryat at, 169, 182, 185. S. Erasmo, haven of Venice, I. 304. S. Georges in Italy, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 227. S. Geran, Thomas Coryat at, I. 201. S. Gereon, martyr in Cologne, 11. 342. S. Gewere, on the Rhine, 11. 301 ; merry custom at, 302. S. Goar, see S. Gewere. S. Gregory, martyr in Cologne, 11. 342. S. Jean de Maurienne, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 223. S. John Baptist's Day in Piedmont, 1. 234. S. John's village in the Brembana Valley, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 61. S. Lewis, king of France and the bishop of Vicenza, 11. 4. S. Liew, Thomas Coryat at, I. 168. S. Luke's monument in Padua, I. 288. S. Marco Mountain, see Ancone Moun tain. S. Marco, quarter in Venice, 1. 306 ; market-place of, description of, 314 ; piazza of, description of, 323. 429 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES S. Mark, the evangelist, patron of Venice, his body brought from Alexandria, 810, I. 354. S. Mary's Church in Vicenza, 11. 10. S. Maternus, first apostle of Stras burg, 11. 193 ; first apostle of Cologne, 310, 334. S. Michael Monastery, near S. George's, 1. 228. S. Paul and the viper in Malta, I. 412 ; place in Venice, 385. S. Polo, quarter in Venice, I. 306. S. Reinoldus, archbishop of Cologne, "• 33 1- S. Saphorine de Lay, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 201. S. Stephen, first martyr, tomb of, in Venice, I. 381 ; place in Venice, games played in, 385. S. Truyen, on the Rhine, 11. 353. S. Ursula, history of, II. 336 ; church of, in Cologne, 337. S. Zeno, bishop and patron saint of Verona, 11. 32 ; monument of, in Verona Cathedral, 33. Saba, Queen of, ancestry of, II. 325- Sabaudi, people of Savoy, etymology of the name, I. 218. Sackfield, Thomas, Dorsetshire-man, settled in Frankfort, 11. 291. Sage, Peter, Coryat's fellow traveller, n. 350. Sala river in Saxony, I. 237. Salamis, see Famagusta. Salt mines at Halles, 11. 144. Salust, quotation from, I. 421. Samia, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258. Sanctus, martyr at Lyons, I. 207. Sangona, Latin name of river Sone, 1. 205 ; Thomas Coryat at, 268. Sansovinus, Jacobus, statues of the tower of S. Mark, made by, 1. 328. Santo, see Anthony's Church. Sapor, King of Persia, and Emperor Valerian, I. 349 note. Sarbini, Arnaldi, bishop of Nevers, 1592, 1. 200. Sariana, Torellas, and the antiquities of Verona, 11. 21. Sartorius, Joannes Antonius, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 256, 258. Sarum, Thomas Coryat at, I. 293. Sassam in Rhaetia, 11. 68. Savage, Richard, Coryat's fellow- traveller, 11. 350. Savoy, Thomas Coryat in, 1. 215-227 ; a dukedom, 218 ; family of the Duke of, 231. Saxenhausen in Frankfort, 11. 288. Scaliger, Antonius, 1 596, 29. Scaliger, Con Grande, 11. 29. Scaliger, Canis Signorius, statue of, 11. 28. Scaliger, Joannes Galeatius, 1596,11.29. Scaliger, Julius Caesar, his verses on Amiens, 1. 161 ; his hexastichon in praise of Paris, 170 ; of Lyons, 203 ; his octostichon, on Turin, 229 ; his verses on Milan, 240 ; decastichon on Cremona, 257 ; his verses on Mantua, 262 ; decastichon on Padua, 270 ; verses on Venice, 301 ; verses on Vicenza, 11. 2 ; verses on Verona, 16 ; palace of the, 25 ; monuments of the, 27 ; hexastichon on Brescia, 41 ; verses on Bergamo, 49 ; verses on Heidelberg, 207 ; verses on Frankfort, 287-288 ; verses on Cologne, 311. Scaliger, Mastinus, statue of, in Verona, 11. 27. Scanderbeg, George Castriot, King of Servia and Epirus, statue of, at Venice, I. 360. Sconenberg, Earl of, at the Frankfort fair, 11. 291. Scory, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 36. Scowen island, in the Netherlands, 11. 371. Seine river, or Sequana, 1. 171 ; 11. 154. Sempach, battle of, between Leopold, Duke of Austria, and the Swiss, 11. 148. Senate House of Worms, 11. 261. Seneca, quotation from, 1. 204 ; works of, 11. 210. Senis Mount, I. 222. Sequana, see Seine. Serrarius, Nicholas, Jesuit of May ence, 11. 175, 274, 279. Severus, Alexander, Emperor, slain at Mayence, 11. 281. Seward, John, Laurence Whitaker's epistle to, I. 149. Sheep in Rhaetia, 11. 64. 43° INDEX Sian in Piedmont, Thomas Coryat at, I. 233. Sibyllae, prophecies of the, 11. 257. Sicambri, former inhabitants of Gel derland, 11. 357. Sidenham, George, his verses on Germany, 11. 181-182. Sidney, Robert, Viscount Lisle, Gover nor of Flushing, 11. 374. Sigismund, Emperor, and the Earldom of Baden, 11. 138 ; and the Dukedom of Savoy, I. 218 ; and the Council of Basle, 1431, 11. 172. Simlerus, Josias, treatise by, II. 91 ; learned man of Zurich, 98, in. Singers, Venetian, 1. 391. Skinkel-sconce, in an island of the Rhine, 11. 356. Slade, Samuel, of Merton College, praised by Archbishop Gabriel, 1. 370. Sleidanus, Joannes, learned man of Strasburg, 11. 195. Smaragdus, second exarch of Ravenna, 1.235. . Smith, Nicholas, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 98. Smyrna, Polycarpus, Bishop of, I. 209. Socrates, II. 168. Sol, Venetian coin, value of, I. 389 ; tin coin, 423. Solodure on the Arola, II. 1 54 ; one of the three oldest cities in Germany, 11. 183. Solodurum, see Solodure. Solomono, mother of the Maccabees, 11. 34L Solon, travels of, to Asia, II. 74. Sone (Sa6ne) river, or Arar, or San gona, 1. 205. Sophia, Empress, and Narses, I. 337. Sorbona, founded by Charles the Great, 796, I. 171. Sorverden, Frederick, Comes de, arch- of Cologne, 11. 331. Spanivellis, Thomas of, friend of Thomas Coryat in Vicenza, II. 13. Speronus, Speronius, statue of, at Padua, I. 321. Spira or Spier, see Spires. Spira river at Spires, 11. 232. Spires, 11. 147 ; confluence of the Rhine and Neckar near, 209 ; Thomas Coryat at, II. 231-251 ; churches of, 233 ; cathedral of, 233 ; Attila at, 251 ; death of Adolph of Nassau near, 1298, 235 ; Attila at, 251. Splugen, town and mountain, Lir Lake near, 11. 67. Stadthaus of Flushing, 11. 374 ; of Nimeguen, 359. Stangi, Henry de, scholar of Herman nus Kirchnerus, 11. 71. Statues in the Duke's Palace in Venice, I. 321 f ; of learned men in Verona, 11. 27. Steinbach, Ervinus of, 11. 182 ; archi tect of Strasburg tower, 186. Stilico, Consul, and Radagisus, I. 305. Stiver, dutch coin, 11. 365. Stones, huge, in Savoy, I. 221. Storks, description of, 1. 189 ; at Flush ing, 11. 374. Strangwayes, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 34-35. Strasburg in Alsatia, 11. 180-194; bishop of, and Zurich, 108 ; Attila, 183 ; cathedral, 185 ; bishopric of, 193 ; distance from, to Heidelberg, 376. _ Stiigelius, Victorinus, professor at Heidelberg, 11. 229. Stuckius, Joannes Gulielmus, 11. 98, 100, m, 195. Suetonius, I. 307. Suevia, see Swabia. Suicardus, Joannes, archbishop of Mayence in Coryat's time, 11. 275. Sungovia, or Sequania in Switzerland, 11. 152. Sunnazarius, Jacobus, reward bestowed by Venice on, 1. 301. Susa, Thomas Coryat near, I. 227. Sutclin, John, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 64. Swabia, Wimpina in, 11. 208. Swice, prefect of, and William Tell, 11. ioi ; at the help of Zurich, 108. Swiss at the battle of Granson, 1476, 1. 192. Switzerland, Thomas Coryat in, 11. 92 f ; boundaries of, 92 ; origin of the name of, 103. Sydenham, George, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 65-67. Sylla river, in Switzerland, witches' ashes thrown in, n. 107. 431 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Sylvius, .As-<5£i>, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 81. Torture, public, in Venice, I. 392. Tossana, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 67, 87. Totila, 5 th king of Ravenna, I. 289. Tour du Pin, see La Tour du Pin. Tower of St. Mark in Venice, de scription of, 1. 325 ; of Vicenza, II. 4. Tower, James, Coryat's fellow-traveller, 11. 350. Trajan, Emperor, at Cologne, 11. 349 ; his bridge over the Danube, I. 309. Trapezuntius, George, Greek orator, 11. 150. Treasurer of the land cities subject to Venice, I. 420. Treasures of the French kings at S. Denis, I. 182. Trebeta, son of Ninus, king of the Assyrians, 11. 183. Trebeta, Prince, founder of Mayence, 11. 270. TremelUus, EmanueL 1. 374 ; preacher at Heidelberg, 11. 229. Tremoville, commander of the French at the battle of Novara, 1500, I. 239- Trent, Bassanum, near, I. 273, Trevirs, one of the three oldest cities in Germany, 11. 183 ; founded by Prince Trebeta, 256 ; Strasburg, subjected to, 193. Trevisa, subject to Venice, 1. 420. Triboces, former inhabitants of Alsatia, 11. 183. Triphone, the Jew, and Justinus, I. 209. Trithemius, John, and the writings of Bishop Maximus, I. 232. Triumphus Bavaricus, by Robert Turner, 11. 233. Trontz, confederation of Rhetia, 1424, signed at, 11. 90. Truccessius, Gebhardus, archbishop of Cologne, 11. 335. 432 INDEX Tuberus river, tributary of the Maine, n. 285. Tuetanes, lord of Tuetonia, 11. 178. Tuilleries, palace of the, I, 175. Tuisco, son of Noah and Arezia, 11. 178 ; and the foundation of Deutz, 348. Tun, Great, of Heidelberg, 11. 218. Turegum, see Zurich. Turgovia, II. 96. Turin, illness of Thomas Coryat at, I. 229 ; Scaliger's verses on, 229 ; his tory of, 230 ; distance from, to Milan, 301. Turlowe in Baden, Marquisate of, II. 199 ; Thomas Coryat at, 203 ; con quered by Emperor Rodolph, 205. Turner, Robert, Triumphus Bavaricus by, on Spires Cathedral, 11. 233. Turre, limit of Vicenza and Verona, 11. 15. Two Storks, inn at Zurich, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 107. Tyrol, Meinhard, Earl of, 11. 144. Uberwinter, on the Rhine, Thomas Coryat at, II. 307. Ubii, founders of Cologne, 11. 311. Ubiopolis, see Cologne. Ulissingen, see Flushing. Ulmo, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 61. Ulyshingen, see Flushing. Underwald, or Sylvania, in Switzer land, 11. 101 ; at the help of Zurich, 108. Universities in Germany, 1. 8 ; 11. 76 ; of Basle, 11. 170; of Cologne, 348; of Heidelberg, 226; of Mayence, 279 ; of Wittenberg, Martin Luther at, 194. Urban II., Pope, and the first Crusade, 1094, 11. 238. Urban IV., Pope, and the Corpus Christi day, I. 176. Urban VI., Pope, university of Cologne, founded by, 1388, 11. 348. Uri, or Urania, in Switzerland, II. 101, . 108. Ursinus, Zacharius, preacher at Heidel berg, 11. 229. Ursula river, Lucerne on, 11. 154. Usumcassanes, king of Persia, his presents to the Signiory of Venice, 1. 356. C.C. 11 433 Utrecht, death of Conradus II. at, 11. 233; death of Henry V. at, 1125, 235- Vadianus Glareanus, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 86-95, u6- 119. Valentinian, Emperor, 11. 153. Valerian, Emperor, and Sapor, king of Persia, I. 349 note. Valerius, Albertus, bishop of Verona in Thomas Coryat's time, 11. 32. Valerius Brobus, Emperor, 11. 179. Valtulina Valley, 11. 62. Vangionum, see Worms. Vaughan, Rowland, John, and William, epitaph of, by George Coryat, 11. 406-407. Vegetius, on the army of ancient Rome, 1. 212. Venice, Signiory of, Padua added to, by Gattamelita, 1402, 1. 274 ; Gulf of, 303. Venice, description of, 1. 301-428 ; a ' maiden city,' 415 ; government of, 417 ; possessions of, 420 ; Coryat's departure from, 11. 1 ; distance from, to Ancone mountain, 11. 375. Venus's temple in Spires, demolished by Dagobert, 11. 251. Vercellis in Piedmont, S. John Baptist's day in, 1. 234. Verona, subject to Venice, I. 420 ; Scaliger's verses on, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 16 ; description of, 17-40, 154. Veronne, forest of, near Abbeville, I. 160. Verses, panegyric, on Thomas Coryat, 1. 22-121. Vespasianus, Flavius, Roman prefect at Mayence, 11. 283. Vic, M. de, governor of Calais, 1608, 1. 152. Vicenza, subject to Venice, 1. 420 ; Scaliger's verses on, 11. 2 ; descrip tion of, 3 ; Attila at, 12 ; on the Bacchilio, 154. Vicetia, see Vicenza. Victor, archbishop of Worms, and the Council of Cologne, 348, 11. 260. Vienna, inhabited by Allobroges, I. 218. 2 E CORYAT'S CRUDITIES Vincentia, see Vicenza. Vineyards and wine houses in Savoy, I. 219 ; in Piedmont, 233. Virdungus, Joannes, mathematician in Heidelberg, 11. 229. Virgil, at Cremona, 1. 260 ; his verses on Mantua, 262 ; Mantua, birth place of, 263 ; quotation from, 11. 176. Virginius, Rufus, Roman prefect at Mayence, 11. 283. Visdossein, M. de, governor of Calais, 1. 156. Voga, hill in Burgundy, I. 171. Voitlandia, Maine river rises in, 11. 284. Volucis, Otho, Viscount of Milan, his single combat with, 1. 246. Vopiscus, Flavius, historiographer, 11. 183. Voragine, Jacob de, and the legend of S. Denis, 1. 169. Vorpillere, Thomas Coryat at, I. 214. Vulteius, travels of, 1. 130. Wael, river, in Gelderland, 11. 357. Wahalis, Nimeguen by the, 11. 154; branch of the Rhine, 177. Walanus, first bishop of Basle, 704, 11. 172. Walastat in Switzerland, Thomas Coryat at, II. 91, 93. Walcheren island, towns in, 11. 372. Walks, vaulted, in Padua, I. 298. Walmarana, Earl Leonardus, palace of, in Vicenza, II. 4. Wan, Joannes de, last bishop of Basle, 1365, 11. 172. Warner, Michael, builder of the great ¦ ,tun of Heidelberg, 11. 219. lyWart, Rodolphus de, and the murder " ofiEmperor Albert, 11. 145 ; death of, vi 146. Wasalia, Joannes de, learned man of Wesel, 11. 301. 1 Weserus, Gaspar, of Zurich, II. 100 ; Thomas Coryat's epistles to, 1 13-121 ; epistle from, to Thomas Coryat, 122-123. Watchman in the Netherlands, 11. 355. Weda, Hermannus Comes a, arch bishop of Cologne and the Reform, "¦ 335- Wentworth, Mary, monument of, at Calais, I. 154. Wentworth, Lord, Thomas Coryat and, at Padua, II. 1. Wernerus, martyred child in Wesel, 1287, 11. 300. Wernharius, first bishop of Worms, in the time of Charles the Great, n. 261. Wesel, Higher, Thomas Coryat at, 11. 300. Wesel, Under, in Cleveland, 11. 352. Wheel, Tormentor's, near Boulogne, 1. 159- Whippings, public, at Lyons, 1. 213. Whitaker, Laurence, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 40-43 ; Elogie of Coryat's Crudities, 149. Whittelbach, Otto Palatine of, Em peror Philip murdered by, 1208, 11. 235. Wiesa river at Basle, 11. 153, 155. William, Earl of Holland and Zeland, monuments to, in Middleborough, u- 373- William, Prince of Orange, father of Ludovica, wife of Frederick IV., 11. 225. WiUigisus, bishop, founder of the cathedral of Mayence, c. ion, n. 271. Willingus, Joannes, preacher at Heidel berg, 11. 229. Willoughby, student in Padua, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 299. Wimier, Carolus, of the Praemon- stratenian Order, and Thomas Coryat, I. 161. Wimpina in Swabia, II. 208. Windows, French, 1. 197 ; of Lyons, 204 ; size of, in Rhaetia, II. 69. Wines, variety of, in Venice, 1. 424. Wirtemberg, Earl of, and Zurich, 11. 108. Wisdom, College of, at Heidelberg, 11. 227. Witches burnt in Zurich, 11. 107. Wittemberg, University of, Martin Luther at, 11. 194. Woldruda, wife of king Pipin, 11. 349- Wolphangus, Count Palatine, 1558, 11. 212. Wolphius, Joannes, printer of Basle, 11. 172. Worcom, on the WaeU, II. 361. 434 INDEX Wormacia, see Worms. Worms, Joannes Dalburgius, bishop of, II. 229 ; Thomas Coryat at, 252- 268 ; description of, 255 f. Worsley, James and Anne, epitaph of, by George Coryat, 11. 405. Worsley, Richard, epitaph of, by George Coryat, 11. 404-5. Wotton, Sir Henry, English ambas sador in Venice, 1. 272, 332 ; praised by Archbishop Gabriel, 370 ; letter from Richard Martin to, 377-379. Xylander, Gulielmus, philosopher in Heidelberg, II. 229. Yaxley, Robert, panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 34. Zabarella, Francis, of Padua, I. 298. Zabernia, or Taberna, seat of the bishops of Strasburg, 11. 193. Zamolxis, travels of, 1. 128. Zanchius, Hieronymus, famous prea cher of Bergamo, II. 60. Zani or Zanus, Sebastianus, Duke of Venice, 1166, 1. 349; and his be trothal to the sea, n 74, 359. Zante island, or Zacynthos, I. 320. Zanus, Petrus, Duke of Venice, and the lions of S. Mark's, I. 348. Zara, subject to Venice, I. 421. Zebenico, subject to Venice, I. 421. Zedechias, Jewish physician, 872,1. 267. Zeno, Joannes Baptista, Cardinal, his tomb in S. Mark's Church, Venice, f: 351-. Zirixee, in Scowen island, 11. 371. Zogno, Thomas Coryat, II. 61. Zollern, John, Earl of, death of, II. 148. Zuinggerus, professor of Greek at Basle in Coryat's time, II. 170. Zuinglius, pastor of Zurich, 11. 109, in. Zurich, 11. 96 ; lake of, 11. 94 ; history of, 94 ; description of, 95-112 ; Thomas Coryat leaves, 136 ; on the Limacus, 1 54 ; one of the three oldest cities in Germany, 183 ; distance from, to Basle, 376. 435 CORYAT'S CRUDITIES The following list of Errata is reprinted from the original edition. ERRATA. In the first Oration of Kirqjinerus for plency read plenty, ibid, for contained r. contemned, ibid, for matters r. manners, pag. 16. lin. 30. for hairse r. haire. p. 21. 1. 4. for hore r. horse, p. 23. 1. 14. for videt r. vidit. p. 29. 1. 14. for subdio r. sub dio. p. 35. 1. 15. for preambulating r. perambulating, p. 58. 1. 31. for from r. to. p. 63. 1. 17. for prestin r. pristin. p. 136. 1. 33. for remited r. remitted, p. 149. 1. 35. for atten- tator r. attentato. p. 161. 1. 16. for Vinetia r. Venetia. p. 162. 1. 24. for twenty r. twentieth, p. 163. 1. 16. for fourty r. forty, p. 167. 1. 6. for breath r. breadth, p. 202. 1. 33. for ratriae r. patriae, p. 206. 1. 17. for is r. it. p. 257. 1. 27. for shall r. shalt. p. 271. 1. 30. for maner r. manners. p. 308. 1. 16. for sounded r. founded, p. 312. 1. 21. for Sariana r. Saraina. p. 297. 1. 17. for Lordships r. Mannors. p. 385. 1. 3. for sacers r. sakers. In the last line of one of the pages of my latin Epistle to Buelerus for connere r. continere. p. 397. 1. 19. for afterwaed r. afterward, p. 419. 1. 16. for wood r. forrest. p. 422. 1. 7. for ipsam 1. ipsum. p. 438. 1. 1. for opposing r. opposed, p. 467. 1. 18. for Cassia r. Hassia. p. 492. 1. 9. for Saronie r. Saxonie. p. 495. 1. 2. for who read which, p. 509. 1. 14. for of £. or. p. 522. 1. 30. for in r. of. p. 539. 1. 30. for canot r. cannot, p. 573. 1. 3. for Princedomes r. Principalities, p. 578. 1. 3. for beuatifull r. beautifull. p. 581. 1. 34. for slave r. slue. p. 561. 1. 13. for nobis r. novis. p. 603. 1. 35. for inumerable r. innumerable, p. 621. 1. 13. for ength r. length, p. 623. 1. 24. for to r. two. p. 622. 1. 6. for belbi r. belli. Other faults there are also in the booke at the least halfe a hundred (I beleeve) unmentioned in this place, which I intreate thee to winke at, and to expect a truer Edition, which I will promise thee shall make recompence for the errors now past. GLASGOW I PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY ROBERT MACLEHOSE AND CO. LTD.