on
wis

IK I
ml

1%1tvep^

YALE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

ElCE C TTIOJV at PtA-RIS

Vtdt r-n.

TRIP

T O

I s.

IN

JULY and AUGUST,
I792.

LONDON-.
PR INTED AT THE
dinette ®refa,
AND SOLD RY WILLIAM LANE,
LEADrENHALL-STREET,
AND BY MRS. HA.IiOff, PALL-MALL.

M.DCC.XCIII.

CONTENTS.

Road from Calais. Unneceffary Paflports, Chantiliy. i
Expenfes  ¦  "  '""" °
Mifcellaneous obfervations. Chefs-men. Tree- of
Liberty. Crucifixes. Virgins. Saints, Bifhops.
Old Women —    8
Wall round Paris. New Bridge. Field of the Fede
ration. BafHlle  r  '5
Coins and Tokens--^---  "  -r_"" J9
Theatres ..,    --—"  H
Pantheon. Jacobins. Quai Voltaire. RueRouffeau.
Cockades *  «¦ — r  *¦¦  *•-* *" %7
Execution of two criminals with a beheading machine 3 2
Verfailles. Botany, Sounding meridians -,,^  38
Dogs and Cats . Two-headed Boy  " - 50
Mifcellanies. Books burnt. Chefs. Convents - 54-
Drefs. Inns  =¦  ¦*  /
- 68
Affignats ---- =  r   *¦  '
Battle and maflacre at the Tuileries  — 7 l
Statues pulled down, New names  -—- 84
Beheading. Dead naked bodies  „«-----  90
Courage and curiofityof the fair-fex. Maffacre in 157a 93
Mifcellanies, Number of flain  —^ 99
Breeches. Pikes, Neceffary Paflports  IOS
Mifcellanies. Dancing. Poultry, Taverns. Wig 11 1
Extent, Population, &c. of France  ll
Emendations and Additions. Return to Calais -- 123
„  __-]29
Epilogue -----  --

TRIP

t o

PARIS,

HOAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY
PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY.
n^HE following excurfion was undertaken
for feveral reafons : the firft of which
was, that though I had been many times in Paris
before, yet I had not once been there fince
the Revolution, and I was delirous of feeing
how far a refidence of a few years in France
might be practicable and agreeable ; feeond-
ly, a Counter-Revolution, or, at leaft* fome
violent meafures were expected* and I was
willing to be there at the time, if pollible ;
B 2nd

( 2 )
and laftlyj I wanted to examine the gardens
near Paris s
I mull: here premife that I fent for a pafs-
port from the Secretary of State's office, which
I knew could do no harm if it did no good
thinking I fhould have it for nothing, and ob
tained one figned by Lord Grenville, but at
the fame time a demand was made for two
guineas and Jixpehce for the fees j now, as I
have had paflports from almoft all the Euro
pean nations, all and every one of which were
gratis, I fent the paTs back ', it Was however
immediately returned to me, and I was told
thati " A paffport is never iflued from that
office without that fee, even if the party afk-
irig for it changes his mind." I paid the money t
and that is all IJhallfay about the matter* e
Mr. Chauvelin. (the minifter from France)
fent me his pafs gratis; thofe which I after-
Wards received in Paris from Lord Goiver, and
the very eflential one from Mr, Petion, were
likewife gratis. That

( 3 )
That of Mr. Chauveiin has at the top i.
imall engraving of three Fleursde Lys between
two oak branches, furtnounted By a crown :
at the bottom is anotherfmall engraving, with
his cypher F. C. it Was dated London* 17th
July, 1792, 4th year of Liberty*
No paffport of any kind is neceffary to enter
France. At Calais one was given to me by
the magiftrates, mentioning my age, ftaturej
complexion, &c. and this Would have been a
Sufficient permit for my going out of France by
fea or by land, if the diflurbances in Paris, of
the 10th of Augulr, had not happened;
I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, a^
bne in the afternoon, arid landed at Calais after
a pleafant paflage of three hours and a half.
I immediately procured a national cockade,
Which was a filk ribband* with blue, white,
and fed ftripes ; * changed twenty guineas for
forty livres each, in paper, (the real value is
not more than twenty-five livres)*hired*a^-
briolet, of two wheeled poft- chaife of Dejfin,
B % which

( 4 )
(which was to take me to Paris, and bring me
back in a month) for three louisd'ors in money,
bought a poft-book, drank a bottle of Bur
gundy, and fet off directly for Marquife (about
fifteen miles) where I patted the night.
The next day, 26 th, I proceeded only to
Abbeville, and it was ten at night when I got
there, becaufe a gentleman in the chaife with
me, and another gentleman and his wife, who
had not been in France before, and who ac
companied us all the way to Paris, wifhed to
fee Boulogne. We accordingly walked round
the ramparts, and then went on.
The 27th we remained a few hours at
.Amiens, and faw the cathedral and the engine
which fupplies the city with water, called La
Tour d'Eau. We flept at Breteuil, which is
a paltry town {Bourg.J
The 28th. We were five hours occupied
in feeing Chantilly. This palace is the mofl
magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging
to a fovereign. In the cabinet of natural hif-
tory,

( 5 )
tory, which has lately been very considerably
augmented, by the addition of that of Mr.
Valmont de Bomare, who arranged the whole)
Iobferved the foetus of a whale, about fourteen
inches long, preferved in fpirits ; and the fkin
of a wolf fluffed. I faw this identical wolf at
Montargis, a palace beyond Fontainebleau, m
1784, foon after it had been fhot. The carp
came, as ufual, to be fed by hand. Some of
them are faid to have been here above a cen
tury. As to the gardens, they are well known ;
all that I fhall fay is, that they do not contain a
fingle curious tree, fhrub, or flower. We
hired a landau,* at the inn, to drive us about
thefe gardens, and in the evening proceeded to
St. Denis, which is only a fingle pofl from
Paris, where we remained, as it would not
have been fo convenient to feek for a lodging
there at night.
The next day, Sunday 29th, early in the
morning, we entered Paris, and put up at the
Motel d'Efpagne, Rue du Colombier, and in the
evening went to the opera of Corifandre.
B 3 EXPENCES.

i( 6 )

EXPENCES.
THE whole expences of our journey fron}
Calais to Paris was as follows. The diflance
is thirty-four pofls and a half, thelafl of which
mufl be paid double.* The two chaifeswere
each drawn by two horfes, at 30 Sous per
horfe, and 20 fous to each poflillion perpofl,is
35 and a half pofls, at eight livres, is Livres 284
Greafing the wheels and extra grati
fications to drivers, about 32
The fees for feeing Chantilly, includ
ing the hire of a carriage, $4
Inns on the rpad> four days and four
nights, about • — 200
£•54°
This, at 40 livres per guinea., amounts te
thirteen guineas and a half; to which mufl he
added,
* A poft is about two leagues, or between four and fix miles,
as the poflhoufes are not exactly at the fame diftance frqCji each.
other.

( 7 )
added, for the hire of the two chaifes to Paris,
three Louis in money, adequate to three pounds
Sterling, which altogether does not amount to
four guineas each perfon, travelling pofl above
two hundred miles, arid faring fumptuoufly on
the road, drinking Burgundy and Champagne,
and being as well received at the inns as if the
expences had been quadrupled. One hot meal
a day, at three livres a head, one livre for each
bed, and the wine paid for apart, was the
cuflomary allowance. After this manner. I
have travelled feveral times all over France, to
Bourdeaux, Touloufe, Montpelier, Marjeille,
Toulon, Hieres, Avignon, Lyon, &c.
Had the exchange been at par, the expence
would have been doubled, in Englifh money ;
but even then would have been very reafon-
able, compared to the cofl of a fimilar journey
in England. At Paris I received 42 livres 1 5 fous for
each guinea ; foon after which I was paid
forty-two livres for every pound flerling which
I drew on London : on my return to Calais I
B 4 found

( 8 )
found the exchange to be forty-four livres per
guinea, and once it was as high as forty-nine,
This, of courfe, very much injures the trade
between England and France ; but, for the
fame reaSbn, English families refiding in France
at prefent, more than double their income, by
drawing bills on Lqndon for fuch income, and
jt will probably be many years before the ex
change will be at par again.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESS-?
MEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES.
VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS.
OLD WOMEN, &C.
THE whole way from Calais to Paris the
land was in the higheSl Slate of cultivation.
The fandy foil near the gates of Calais
abounded with the Chelidonium Glaucium, or
jcommon yellow horned poppy. The

( 9 )
The firfl vines on this road are about a mile
on this fide of Breteuil.
Between St. JuSl and Clermont is a magni
ficent chateau and garden belonging to the
ci-devant Dup de Fitzjames : this feat has ne
ver been defcribed ; it is not Shewn to Stran
gers at prefent, as the proprietor is emigrated.
The country all around Chantilly, confifts
of cornfields; formerly it appeared barren, be-
caufe theimmenfe quantity of game which in-
fefled and over- ran it devoured all the crops and
ruined the farmers, who were fent to the gal-
lies if they fhot a bird,
I pafied this way in 1783 and 1784, andfaw
vafl numbers of pheafants, partridges, and hares
• crofs the road, and feed by the fide of it, as
tame as poultry in a farm-yard; but at pre
fent the game is all deflroyed ; neither are
there any more wild boars in the forefl, which
is of 7600 acres. Thefe animals Still inha
bit the forefl of Fontainebleau. This forefl
(which covers almofl four times as much
3 ground

( io )
ground as that of-Chantilly)* contains a greater
number of trees, of a more enormous Size, than
I have feen in any other part of Europe, grow-r
ing amongfl rocks and flones equally remark
able for their dimensions. I know riot of any
parallel to the fublime-beautiful, and to the
wild and romantic grandeur of the fcenery here
displayed. The landfcapes of Salvator Rofa
appear to have been talsen from natural objects,
Similar to thofe which are rjere feen. It is only
forty miles from Paris,
In. the treafury of the Abbey at St. Denh
were formerly preferved the Chefs-men of
Charlemagne ; thefe I defcribed in the firfl vo^
lume of Chefs, published in 1787; they are
now either folen or frayed, and will probably
never more be heard of.
All the horfes (many of which were florie-
horfes) we had occafion to make ufe of along
this road were very gentle, and fo were the
cattle which were feeding on the grafs grow ing
* It is about five fquare miles, or rather, eight miles in
length from two to four miles in breadth.

( » )
Jng on the borders of the cornfields, (with-
put any inclofure) which they were
prevented from entering by a firing tied to
f: heir horns, one end of which was fometimes
held by a child of five or fix years old. The
people here are very merciful and kind to their
beafls. I have feen droves of oxen walking
leifurely through the green markets in the ci
ties, fmelling at the vegetables, and driven to
the flaughter-houfe by children. There are
po inSlances here of mad oxen, mad dogs, or
run-away horfes.
In every one of the towns between Calais
and Paris a full-grown tree (generally a poplar)
has been planted in the market-place, with
many of its boughs and leaves; thefe laSl
being withered, it makes but a difmal ap
pearance ; on the top of this tree or 'pole is
a red woollen or cotton night-cap, which is
called the Cap of Liberty, with Streamers
about the pole, of red, blue and white rib
bands, I favr

( 12 )
I faw feveral ftatues of faints, both within
and without the churches (and in Paris like-
wife) with fimilar caps, and feveral crucifixes
with the national cockade of ribbands tied to
the left arm of the image on the crofs, but
not one with the cockade in its proper place ;
the reafon of which I know not.
I was both furprifed and forry to fee the
wooden images, many of them as large as the
life, on croffes, painted with the natural co
lours, to the amount of perhaps twenty be
tween Calais and Paris, Still fuffered to re
main nuifances on the fide of the road. The
perpendicular of each crofs being feafoned,
by having been expofed many years to the
open air, might make a couple of excellent
pike Staves •* but the remainder would, as
far as I know, be of no other ufe than for
fuel. i
Another abfurdity which has not been
attended to as yet is, that mofl of the al
manacks, even that which is prefixed to Mr.
Rabaut's
* This was written after I had become familiarized to pikes.

-( *3 )
Rdbaut's Account of the Revolution, contains
againfl every day in the year, the name of
fome faint or other, male or female; fome
of them. martyrs, and others not, others arch
angels, angels, arch-bifhops, bishops, popes,
and virgins, to the number of twenty-four,
and of thefe, four were martyrs into the bar
gain ; and this at a time when churches are
felling by auction and pulling down, when the
convents are turned into barracks, when there
is neither monk nor nun to be feen in the
kingdom, nor yet any Abbe, and when no
priefl dares appear in any facerdotal garment,
or even with any thing which might mark
him as an ecclefiaftic. It mufl however be ac
knowledged, that the faints have loft all their
xredit in France, and of courfe fo have the
Bienheureux, or BleJJ'ed. In order to arrive at
faint-hood, the candidate mufl firfl have died
en odeur de Saintete, which, were it not too
ludicrous, might be tranflated fmelling of
holinefs ; he was then created a Bie?jheureux,
and after he had been dead a century, the
pope might canonize him ifhepleafed; after
which

( H )
which he, the faint, might work miracles
if he could, or let it alone*
France fofmerly contained eighteen arch-
bifhopricks, and one" hundred and thirteen
bifhopricks ; the Arch ones are all abolifhed,-
and likewife forty-feven of the. others ; there
are, however, plenty remaining, no lefs than
feventy- three, which includes feven new ones>*
and one in Gorfca,
The churches in Paris afe not much fre
quented ort the week days, at prefent; I
found a few old women on their knees iri
fome of them, hearing mafs; and, at the fame
time, at the other end of one of thefe churches
commhTaries were fitting and entering the
names of volunteers for the army.
The iron rails in the churches which part
the choir from the nave, and alfb thofe which
encompafs chapels and tombs, are all Prderdd
to be converted into heads for pikes*

On

( «s )
On Sundays, before the ioth of Auguft,
the churches were ftill reforted to, but by no
means crowded; I know not whether this-
be the cafe now.
All the jours de fete, holidays, are veryju-
dicioufly abolifhed, and likewife les jours gras,
et maigres, (Flefh and meagre days.)
All Shops are allowed to be open, and every
trade carried on on Sundays, notwithftanding
which, few are open excepting thofe where
provisions are fold ; the inhabitants chufingto
have one day's relaxation in feven, to take
a little freSh air, and to appear well dreffed.

WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE.
FIELD OF THE FEDERATION.
BASTILLE.
THERE is a Wall which encompafies
Paris, of about twelve feet high and two
feet thick, about nine miles long on the
North
5

( 16 )
North fide, and five on the South Side ; this
was built juSl before the Revolution, and was
intended to prevent goods from being fmug-
gled into Paris. On the North fide are
thirty-fix barriers, and on the other Side
¦eighteen ; of thefe fifty-four I faw only ten.
They were intended for the officers of the
cuStoms ; at prefent they are ufed as guard
rooms. Mo ft of them are magnificent
buildings, of white ftone, fome like temples,
others like chapels ; feveral of thefe are de-
fcribed in the new Part's Guides ; but views
of none of them have as yet been engraven.*
A bridge of white Stone was juSl finifhed and
opened for the paflage of carriages ; it was be
gun in 1787, it is of five arches, the centre arch
is ninety-fix feet wide, the two collateral
ones eighty-feven feet each, and other two
feventy- eight, each of thefe arches forms
part of a circle, whofe centre is confiderably
under the level of the water; it is thrown over
* The Rotunda Li" Orleans, in this wall, at the back of the gardens
of the ci-devant Duke of that name is worthy of obfervation.

( *7 )
ovef the river from the Place de Louis XF.
to the Palais Bourbon.
The Champ de la Federation, formerly
Champ de Mars, is a field which ferved for
the exercifes of the pupils of the Royal Mili
tary School ; it is a regular parallelogram of
nine hundred yards long, and three hundred
yards broad, exclufive of the ditches by
which it is bounded, and of the quadruple
rows of trees on each fide ; but if thefe are
included the breadth is doubled. At one
extremity is the magnificent building above-
mentioned, -j- and the river runs at the foot
of the others. In this field is formed the
largeft Circus in the world, being eight
hundred yards long and four hundred broad ;
it is bordered by a flope of forty yards broad,
C and
¦f In 1788 the fchool was fupprefled, the fcholars were placed
in the army, or in country colleges, and the building is
intended, when the neceflary alterations are completed,
to be one of the four hofpitals which are to replace that p£
the Hotel-Dieu. This hofpital is in fuch a bad fituation,
being in the midft of Paris, that a quarter of the patients
die. It contains only two thoufand beds ; each of the
fcur new hofpitals is to contain twelve hundred beds.

( i8 )
and of which the highefl part is ten feet above
the level ground ; the lower part is cut into
thirty rows, gradually elevated above each
other, and on thefe rows or ridges a hundred and
fixty thoufand perfons may Sit commodiouflyj.
the upper part may contain about a hundred
and fifty thoufand perfons Standing, of which
every one may fee equally well what is
doing in the Circus. The National con
federation was firft held here, 14th July, 1790,
and at that time a wooden bridge was thrown
on boats over the river for convenience.
Of the Bajlille nothing remains but the
foundations ; it was demolished and levelled
with the ground in about eleven months;
the expences at the end of the firft three
months amounted to about twenty thoufand
pounds fterling. The materials were fold
for half that fum, and the nation paid the
remainder. And on the 14th of July, 1790, the
anniverfary of the day of its having been taken,
a long maft was erected in the middle of
the place where it flood, crowned with
flowers and ribbands, and bearing this fimple and
6

( i9 )
and expreflive infcription ; Ici on Danfe,-
Here is dancing.

Coins and Tokens.

IN the Hotel de la Monnoye (the Mint)
I procured fome new coins, The Silver crowri
' piece of fix livres has on one fide the king's
head in profile, round which . is Louis XVI.
Roi des Frangois, 1792; over this date is
a Small lion paffant, being a. Mint mark.
The reverfe, is a human .figure with an enor
mous pair of wings,* holding a book in its
left hand, which book refts on an altar, and
with its other is reprefented as if writing irt
it ; the word Confiitution is already feert there.
The figure is naked, except a flight drapery
on the left arm ; behind the figure is a bun
dle of flaves,liketheRomanFafces,furmounted C.2 . by
* There 'is to be a new coinage without the Icing's profile, and
it is to be /hoped' thefe wings, or rather the whole figure*
will be left out.

( 20 )
by the cap of liberty, and behind the altar
is a cock ftanding on one leg; the inferip-
tion is Regne de ia Loi. LAn A^de ia Liberte.
Befides this, there are two other Mint marks,
one a friiall lyre, and the other the letter A ;
at the foot of the altar is Dupre, the name of
the perfon who engraved the die ; and on the
edge is La Nation, La Loi, et le Roi, in Re
lievo. There are no new half crowns. Th«
dies of the new thirty and fifteen fol pieces
arejuil like that of the crown, except that
their value is Stamped on them 30 Sols,
15 Sols, and that there is no infcription on
the edge.
There are two other coins, made of a fort
of bell-metal ; one of two Sols, with the king's
profile;, infcription and date like thofe on
the filver coin, and on the reverfe the Fa/ces
and cap, between two oak branches, and the
infcription, La Nation, Le Loi, Le Roi.
Van ^ de la Liberie. 2 S. The other of
half this Size, and with the fame impreffions, except
4

( 21 )
except that its value is fpecified thus, 1 2 D .
or Denier s^ equal to one Sol.
I have not feen any new Louis. No paper
money or affignats is known in the Mint;
I bought fome coins here, and paid for them
in guineas, which are currant for twenty-five
livres. There are twelve or fourteen mills,
which were all at work in coining crown
pieces, and likewife feveral hammering ma
chines, one of which was coining 2 Sols
pieces. Befides the national coins, feveral tradefmen
have been permitted to fabricate filver and
copper medals or tokens, for public conve •
nience, the moft beautiful of which are thofe
of M. Manner on. The largeft is of almoft
pure copper, exactly of the fize and thicknefs
of the crown piece ; in an oval is represented
a female figure with a helmet on, fitting on an
elevated place, on which is Dupre f (or
fecit) holding a book, infcribed Confitution
des Francois ; at her fide is a Shield with the
arms of France, and at her feet an altar, on
C 3 one

( 22 )
one fide of which is the profile of the king*
feveral foldiers are reprefented extending
their right arms, as if taking the oath ; at
top is Patle Federatif; at bottom 1 4 Juillet,
1790 ; round the oval vivre libres ou mourir,
which is repeated in one of the banners car
ried by a foldier. On the reverfe, in a circle,
is Medaille de confiance de cinq-fols rembourfable
en ajjignats de 501" et audeffus. LAn IV. de
la Liberte ; round this is Monneron Freres
Negocians a Paris, 1792 ; and on the edge'
is cut Departemens de Paris, Rhone et Loire.
Du Gard.
I have another of thefe pieces, not quite fo
large nor fo well executed ; one of the fides is
fimilar to that already defcribed ; on the other
is Medaille qui fe vend 5 Sols a Paris chez
Monneron patente. LAn IV. de la Liberte.
Round this is, Revolution Frangaife, IJQ2 ;
and on the edge, Bon pour les 8 3 Departe
mens. I am told this was made at Birming
ham. The

{ 23 )
The other token of the fame merchant is
rather larger and thicker than our halfpenny.
On one Side is a woman fitting, with a ftaff
in her right hand with the cap of liberty ;
her left; arm leans on a fquare tablet, on
which are the words, Droits de l' Homme.
Artie. V.* the fun Shines jufl over her head,
and behind her is a cock perched on half a
fluted column ; round the figure, Liberte fous
la Loi, and underneath, LAn III. de la
Liberte. On the reverfe, Medaille de confiance
de deux fols a echanger contre des ajjignats de
50 L et au defus. 1791. Round this the
merchant's name, as in the firft ; and on the
edge, Bon pour Bord. Marfeil. Lyon. Rouen.
Nant. et Strajb.
I have feen ¦ a filver token almofl as
big as a fhilling. On one fide is repre
fented a woman fitting, leaning with
her left arm on a large open book, at her
right is a cock perched on half a fluted co
lumn ; and the infcription round thefe figures
is, Le Fevre, Le Sage et CompH' ns'- a Paris.
C 4 On
* This article is, " The law has the right of prohibiting only
thofe actions which are hurtful tofociety.

( 24 )
On "the reverfe is B. P. (bon pour) 20 Sols
a ech anger en af gnats de 501* and round this,
et au dejfus Van 4 me de la Liberte, i792.-{"
In this Hotel is the cabinet of the royal
fchool of mineralogy, which Mr. Le Sage has
been four and twenty years in forjning and
analyzing ; it is contained in a magnificent
building, with a dome and gallery almoft en*
tirely of marble.

THEATRES.

AT this time there were ten regular thea
tres open every evening. The firft and mofl
ancient of which is the Opera, or Royal Aca
demy of Mufic. The old houfe which was in
the Palais Royal, was. burnt in 178 1, and the
prefent houfe, near St. Martin's Gate, was
built
+ This and the former echanger, Gfc. and rembourjable, 6fc.
appear to be fuperfiuous.

{ 25 >
built in feventy-five days. The number of per*
formers, vocal and instrumental, dancers, &c.
employed in this theatre is about four hundred
and thirty. The price of admiflion to the
firft boxes is feven livres ten fous, about fix
Shillings and eight pence, (or three Shillings
and four pence as the exchange then was.)
2. The French playhoufe is at prefent
called Theatre de la Nation. In the veSlibule
or porch is a marble Statue of Voltaire, fitting
in an arm chair ; it is near the Luxembourg.
3. The Italian theatre behind the Boulevart
Richelieu. Notwithstanding the name, no
thing but French pieces, and French mufic^
are performed here.
4. Theatre de Monfieur. Rue -Feydeau.
Comedies and opefas are performed here, three
times a week in the Italian, and the other
days in the French language ; for which pur-
pofe two fets of players are engaged at this
houfe. 5. Theatre

( 26 )
r. Theatre Francais. Rue de Richelieu.
At thefe four theatres the price of admiffion
into the boxes was a crown.
6. Theatre de la Rue de Louvois.
7. Theatre Francais. Rue de Bondy.
8. Theatre de la Demoifelle Montanfier,
au Palais Royal. The box price of thefe
three laft was half a crown.
9. Theatre du Marais, quartier St. Antoine.
10. Theatre de Moliere. Rue St. Martin.
To thefe mufl be added about five and
twenty more ; the befl of which is the Theatre
de I'ambtgucomique, on the North Boulevarts-* the

* Thefe Boukvhrts were made in 1536, and planted with font
rows of trees in 1668; thefe beautiful walks are too well
known to be defcribed here; they are 2400 Toifes (4800
yards, or almoft three miles) long. The South Boulevarts
are planted in the fame manner, were finifhed in 1 76 1 , and
are 3683 Toifes, or lathom (above four miles) in length'.

C 27 )
the box price was half a crown. The others
were rope dancers, and fuch kind of Spectacles
as Sadler's Wells, &c. and the prices were
from two Shillings down to fixpence. The
French themfelves, laughing at the great in-
creafe of their theatres, faid, " We Shall
fhortly have a public Spectacle per Street, an
actor per houfe, a mufician per cellar, and an
author per garret.

PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE.
RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES.
THE new church of Sainte Genevieve was
begun in 1757; but the^ building was dif-
continued during the laft war; in 1784 it
was refumed, and is at prefent almoft finifhed.
The whole length of the front is thus infcribed
in very large gilt capitals : Aux grands hommes :
la Patrie reconnoiffdnte. To great men : their
grateful

( 28 f
grateful country. And over the entrance:
Pantheon Francais. L'An III de la Liberte.
As to the Size of Paris, I faw two very
large plans of that city and of London, pn
the fame Scale* on which it was faid, that
Paris covered 5,280,000 fquare Toifes, and
London only 3,900,000. A Toife is two
yards ; and from the plan it appeared to be
near the truth.
The new buildings which Surround the
garden of the Palais Royal form a parallelo
gram, that for beauty is not to be matched
in Europe. They confift of fhops, coffee-
houfes, mufic rooms, four of which are in
cellars, taverns, gamirig-houfes, &c. and the
whole fquare is almoft always full of people.
The fquare is 234 yards in length, and 100
in breadth; the portico which furround it
confifls of 1 80 arches,
The celebrated Jacobins are a club, con-
lifting at prefent of about 1300 members, and
fb called, becaufe the place of meeting is in
the

( 29 )
the hall which was formerly the library of
the convent of that name, in the Rue St. Ho
nor e, about 300 yards distant from the Na
tional ASTembly. The proper name of the
club is, Society of the Friends of the Conjlitution.
There are three or four other Societies of leSs
pote. The ^uai, which was formerly called des
-Theatins, is at prefent named Quai Voltaire*
in honor of that philofopher, who died there
in the houfe of the Marquis de Villette, in 1778.
The Street which was formerly called
Platriere, and in which the general pofl-
office is fituated, is called , Rue Jean Jaques
Roufjeau, in honour of this writer, who refided
fome time in this flreet. I found him here in
1776, and he copied fome mufic for me : he
had no other books at that time than an Eng-
lifh Robinfon Crufoe and an Italian Taffo't
Jerufalem. He died ift July, 1778, very
foon after Voltaire, at the country feat of le
' Marquis de Girardin, about ten leagues from
Paris ; and is buried there, in a fmall ifland. And

( 3° )
And the ftreet which was formerly called
Chaujfee d'Antin is now named Rue de Mira*
beau, in honour of the late patriot of that
name. The church des Innocens was pulled down
in 1786, and the vafl cimetiere (burying
ground) was filled up. Every night, during
feveral months, carts were employed in carry
ing the bones found there, to other grounds
out of Paris : it is now a market for vege
tables. Very near this place was a fountain,
which is mentioned in letters patent fo long
ago as 1273. It was rebuilt with extraordi
nary magnificence in 1550, repaired in 1708,
and at laft, in 1788, carefully removed to the
center of the market, where it now Stands.
The new Quai de Gefvres was constructed in
1787, and all the fhops which formed a long
narrow alley for foot paffengers only, were
deflroyed. At this time no perfbn Was permitted to
walk in any other part of the Tuileries gardens than

( 3* )
than in the terrace of the Feuillans, which is
parallel to the Rue St. Honor e, and under. the
windows of the National AJfembly : the only
fence to the other part of the garden was a
blue ribband extended between two chairs.
Hitherto cockades of filk had been worn»
the arijlrocrats wore fuch as were of a paler
blue and red, than thofe worn by the demo
crats, and the former were even distinguished
by their carriages, on which a cloud was paint
ed upon the arms, which entirely obliterated
them, (of thefe I faw above thirty in the even
ing promenade, in the Bois de Boulogne:) but
on the 30th of July, every perfon was com
pelled by the people to wear a linen cockade,
without any distinction in the red and blue
colours.

EXECUTION

( 32 )

EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, Wifft
A BEHEADING MACHINE.
ON the 4th of Auguft a criminal was be
headed, in the Place deGrH'e. I did not fee
the execution, becaufe, as the hour is never
Specified, I might have waited many hours in
a crowd, frOm which there is no extricating
one's felf. I was there imftiediate'b/ after, and
-faw the machine, which was juSl going to be
taken away. I went into a Cdffee-houfe and
made a drawing, .which is here engraven. It
is called la Guillotine, from the name of the
perfon who firft tirought it into ufe in Paris :
that at Life is called le Louifon, for a fimilar
reafon. In 'Englifh it is termed a maiden.* I have
* Mr. Pennant, in the fecond volume of his Tour in- Scotland,
has given a long account of fuch a machine, from which the
following particulars are taken. " It was confined to the
limits of the forefl; of Hardwick, or the eighteen townfitand
hamlets within its precin&s. -'The execution was generally at

( 13 )
I have feen the following feveri engraving!
offuchan inflrument. The mofl ancient is
engraven on wood, merely outlines, and very"
badly drawn ; it" is in Petrus de Natalibus Ca-
talogus SanSlorum, 1 5 1 o.
There was a German translation bf feme of*
Petrarch's Works, published in 1520; this
contains an engraving in wood, reprefenting
P D ari

at Halifax; Twenty-five criminals fuffered during the
feign of' Queen Elizabeth : the records before that time
were Wl; Twelve more were executed between S623 and
16501 , .after which it is fuppofed the privilege was no more
exerted.  This machine is now deflroyed, but there is
one of the fame kind, in a room under the Parliament
houfe, at Edinburgh, where it was introduced by the Re
gent Morton* who took a model of it as he pafied through
Halifax, and at length fufTered by it himfelf. It is in firm
of a painters eafel, and about ten feen high : at four feet
from the bottom is a crofs-bar* on which the felon laid his
head) which, was kept down by another placed above. Irt
the inner edges of the frame are grooves; in thefe is placed
a fharp axe, with a vaft weight of lead, ftipported at the
fummit by a peg ; to that peg is fattened a cord; which the
executioner cutting, the axe falls, Mid beheads the criminal.-
Jf he was condemned for ftealing £ horfe or a cow, the
irrrng was tied to the b'eaft, which palled out the peg and
became the executioner,

( 34 )
an execution, with a great numbef of figures,
correctly drawn.
Aldegrever, in 1553, publifhed another
print on this Subject.
The fourth is in Achillis Bocchii Quaf tones
Symbolicee, 1550.
There is one in Cats' s Dutch Emblems, 1650.
<- And the two laft are in Goljrieds's Histori
cal Chronicles, in German, folio, 1 674. Thefe
five laft are engraven on copper.
In all thefe reprefentations the axe is either
ftraight or femicircular, but always horizon
tal. The floping'pofition of the French axe
appears to tSe the belt calculated for celerity.
Machines of this kind are at prefent made
ufe of for executions throughout all France, and
criminals are put to death in no other manner,
6 The

(35')
The following is the account of an execu-*
tion, which I had from an eye-witnefs.
The crowd began to afTemble at ten in the
morning, and waited, expofed to the intenfe
heat of the fun in the middle of July, till four
in the afternoon, when the criminals, a Mar
quis and a Prieft, were brought, in two
coaches ; they were condemned for having
forged ajjignats.
The Marquis afcended the fcaffold firft;
he was as pale as- if he had already been dead,
and he endeavoured to hide his face, by pul
ling his hair over it ; there were two execu
tioners, dreSTed in black, on the fcaffold, one
of which immediately tied a plank of about 1 8
inches broad, and an inch thick, to the body
of the Marquis, as he flood upright, faftening
it about the arms, the-belly, and the legs ; this
plank was about four feet long, and came al
moft up to his chin ; a prieft who attended,
then applied a crucifix to his mouth, and the
two executioners directly laid turn on his belly
on the bench, lifted up the upper part of the
D 2 board

( 36 )
hoard which was to receive his neck, adjufled
his head properly, then fhut the board and
pulled the String which is fattened to the peg
at the top of the machine, which lifted up a
latch, and down came the axe ; the head was
off in a mpment, and fell into a bafket whkh
was ready to receive it, the executioner took
it out and held it up by the hair to Show the
populace, and then put it into another bafket
along with the body : very little blood had
iffued as yet.
The Prieft was now taken out of the coacft,
from which he might have feen his companion
fuffer ; the bloody axe was hoifled up and he
underwent the fame operation exactly/ Each
of thefe executions lafled about a minute in all,
from the moment of the criminal's afcending
the fcaffold to that of the body's being taken
away. It was now feen that the body of the
Marquis made fuch a violent expiration that
the belly raifed the lid of the bafket it was in,
and the blood rufhed out of the great arteries
in torrents* The

( 37 )
The windows of the^Place de Greve were?
as ufual on fuch occafions, filled with ladies.*
Many perfons were performing on violins, and
trumpets, in order to pafs the time away, and
to relieve the tedioufnefs of expectation.
I have on feveral other days feen felons fit
ting on ftoolson this fcaffold, with their hands
tied, and their arms and bodies faftened to a
flake by a girth, bareheaded, with an infcrip
tion over their heads, fpecifying their crimes
and punishment ; they are generally thus ex-
|jofed during five or fix hours, and then fent to
prifon, or to the gallies according to the
Sentence. D 3 VER-

* Mrs. Robinfon tells me, that when- fhe. was at Paris, a few
years ago, her valet de place, came early one morning, in
forming her there would be a grand fpe&acle, and wanted
to know if he mould hire a place for her. This fuperb
fp%ect.acle was no other than the execution of two murderers,
who were to be broken alive on the wheel, in the Place de
;Greve, on that day. She however fays, that ftie ^declined
going.

( 38 )

—eon

VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING
MERIDIANS.
I went once to Verfailles ; there is hardly
any thing in the palace but the bare walls, a
very few of the lookirig-glaffes, tapeftry, and
large pictures remaining, as it has now been
near two years uninhabited. I croffed the
great canal on foot; there was not a drop of
water in it.
In the Menagerie I faw the Rhinoceros,
which has been 23 years there; there is like-
wife a lion, with a little dog in the fame den,
as his companion, and a zebra.

The collection of orange trees cannot be
matched in any country where thefe trees do
not grow naturally ; the number is about fix
hundred, the largefl trunk is about fifteen
inches

( 39 )'
inches in diameter, and the age of the mofl
ancient of thefe trees exceeds three cen
turies. The Jar din Potager, or kitchen garden, is
of fifty acres, divided into about five or fix and
twenty fmall gardens, of one, two, or three
acres, walled round, both for Shelter to the
plants, and for training fruit trees againft.
One of thefe gardens, of two acres, was entire
ly allotted to the culture of melons, and thefe
were all of the warty rock cantalupe kind, and
were growing under hand-glaffes, in the man
ner of our late cucumbers for pickling.
The feafon had been fo unfavourable for'
wall-fruit, that (as the gardener told me) all
thefe gardens had yielded lefs than a dozen
peaches and nectarines.
The fruit was fent regularly to the Royal
Family in Paris.
There is a botanical garden at the Petit
Trianon, in the park of Verfailles, but the per-
D 4 fon

( 4® )
fon who Shews it was out of the way, fo that' I
did not fee it.
I paffed feveral mornings in the Botanical
National Garden, f ci-devant Jardin du Rot.)
That part of the" garden which contains the
botanical collection is Separated from the other
part, which is open to the public at large, by:
iron paliSades. The names of the plants are
painted on, Square plates of tin^ Stuck in the
ground on the Side of each plant. I Saw a
Strelifzia^ which was there called Ravenalax
(probably from fome modern bptaniSl's name)
Mr. Thouin, who fuperintends this garden,
faid to me, " We will not have any ariSto*
cratic plants, neither will we call the hew
Planet by any other name than that of its dif-
coverer, Jlerfchel" I negle&ed to afk
Jiim why the plant might not retain its origi
nal and proper name of Helkonia Bihai ?
I here found the Anajlatka HierochunticS^.
pr Rofe of Jericho, which I Sought for in vain,.
$bx feveral years, and advertifed for in the
Gentleman's Magazine, for January 1,791, and in

{ 4i )
in the newfpapers. Many defcriptions and
figures of this plant are to be found in old
books, and the dried plants are frequently to
be met with. Old Gerard very juftly fays,
" The coiner fpoiled the name in the mint,
ibr of all plants that have been written of,
there is not any more unlike unto the rofe."
The annexed figure reprefents a Single plant ;
it had been transplanted into a deep pot, which
had been filled with earth, fo as to make it ap
pear like two plants. The flalks are Shrubby,
the leaves are flefhy, and of a glaucous or fea-
green colour. The corolla confiSls of four
very fmall white petals. Its fcientific descrip
tion may be found in Linnaus*. One of the
flicks is drawn magnified.
Mr. Thouin pointed out to me a new and
very beautiful fpecies of Zinnia, of which the
flower is twice the Size of that of the common
fort, and of a deep purple colour : a new ver-
bafcum, from the Levant; it was about four
feet high, the leaves were almoSl as woolly as
thofe
* Genera plantarttm, 798-.

( 42 )
thofe of the Stachys lanata, and terminated in
a point like a fpur ; it had not yet flowered.1
And a new folanum, with fpines the colour of
gold. ¦ -He recommended the flowerof thefpilanthus
Irajiliana, which our nurferymencall Verbefna
acmella as an excellent dentifrice.
I alfo found here the amethyfea c&rulea ;
this annual has been loft in England above
twenty years.*
The datura fajluofa, the French call Trom-
Pette du jugement a trois fleurs I'une dans
t 'autre ; I have myfelf raifed thefe with triple
flowers, both purple and. white, though fome
of our nurferymen pretended the flowers were
never more than double. The anthemis ara-,
Sica, a very lingular and pretty annual. A
zinnia hybrida, which laft has not yet been cul- •
tivated in England. Twenty- two forts of
medicago
* The feeds which are fold in the London fhops, for thofe of
this plant, are thofe of the liyjfopus frafleatus.

( 43 )
medicago polymorpha, (fnails and hedgehogs) of
thefe I had feen only four in England.
Here was a fmall Single mofs-rofe plant, in
a pot, which is the only one I ever faw in
France. The air -is too hot for thofe rofes,
and for the fame reafon none of the American
plants, fuch as the magnolia (tulip tree) kalmia,
&c. thrive in France, though kept in pots in
the fhade and Well watered ; the heat of the
atmofphere dries the trunk of thefe trees. But
there are many other plants, to the growth of
which the climate is much more favourable
than it is in England. In the open part of
this garden are a great number of ' bigjionia-ca-
talpa trees, which were then in flower, re-
fembling horfe-chefnut flowers at a distance,
but much larger and more beautiful; and
many nerium oleander trees, in wooden chefls ;
feveral of thefe trees are about eight feet high
and the trunk a foot in diameter ; they were
then full of flowers of all the forts, fingle and
double, red and white : thefe are placed in the
green -houfe in the winter.

On

( 44 )
On a mount in this garden is a meridien
Jonndnt (founding meridian) this is an ironmor-
tar which holds four pounds of gunpowder, it
is loaded every morning, and exactly at noon
the fun difcharges the piece by means of a
burning glafs, So placed that the focus at, that
moment Sires the powder in the touch-hole.
The firft meridian t'hat was made of this kind
is in the garden of the Palais Royal, at the top
of one of the houfes : I could not fee it, but it
is thus defcribed in the Paris Guide : " The
touch-hole of the cannon is two inches long
and half a line (the twentieth part of an inch)
broad, this length is placed in the direction of
the meridian line. Two tranfoms or crofs-,
Jlaves placed vertically on a horizontal plane,
fupport a lens or burning glafs, which, .by
their means, is fixed according to the fun's
height monthly, fo as to caufe the focus to be
exactly over the touch-hole at noon, It is faid
to have been invented by Roujfeau," Small
meridians of this fort are fold in the Shops ;
thefe are dials of about a foot fquare, engraven
on marble, with a little brafs cannon and a
lens. The

( 45 )
The market for plants and flowers in pots,
and for nofegays, is kept on the %uai de la
Megifferie,twicea.week, very early in the morn
ing ; the following were the moSl abundant :
Nerium, double flowering pomegranate, vinca
rofea, ( Madagafcar periwinkle) prickly lantana,
peruvian heliotropium (turnfole) tuberoSes,
with very large and numerous fingle and
double flowers, and very great quantities of
common fweet bafil, which is much ufed
in cookery.
I, vifited the apothecaries garden, and alfb
two or three nurfery gardens in that neigh
bourhood, but found nothing remarkable in
them. There are many gardens in the environs
of Paris which are worthy of notice, but I
was prevented from Seeing them in confe-
quence of the diflurbances hereafter men
tioned. In the books which defcribe thefe
places, I find the village of Montr euil-fous-le-
Bois particularly mentioned on account of its
fertility. In the Tableau de Paris it is faid,
" Three

( 4 r
,?Three acres of ground produce to the prpprie-
tor twentv thoufand livres annually, (near 800
guineas.). The rent of an acre is fix hundred
livres, and the king's tax fixty (together about
fixand twenty guineas.) Thepeaches whichare
.produced here are the finefl in the world, and
are foirietimes fold for a crown a piece. When
a prince has given a fplendid entertainment,
three hundred Louis d'ors worth of thefe fruits
have been eaten." It is fituated on a hill,
jufl above Vincennes, about three, miles from
the fauxbourg Saint Antoine, and is likewife
celebrated for its grapes, Strawberries, all
Torts ,of wall fruit, peafe, and every kind of
efculent vegetables. In the garden' called
Mouceaux, which belongs to the ci-devant
Duke of Orleans; at the extremity of the
fauxboufg du Roule are, it it faid, magnificent
hot-houfes, of which I have no recollection,
.though I was in the garden in 1 776. There
is a defcription of thefe gardens in print, with
fixteen copper plates. In the Luxembourg
gardens only common annuals were growing,
fuch as marigolds, fun-flowers, &c. probably
felf fown ; neither were there in the Tuileriesgardens,

C 47 )
gardens, which I afterwards faw, any f ejnafk-
able plants. -; ,¦-:¦
I bought very large peaches in the -markets
at 2°fius each, the ordinary ones were at
xofols. The melons (which are brought
to market in waggons, piled up like turnips
in England) were all of the netted fort, and
offo little flavor, that they would not be
worth cultivating, were it not for the fake
of cooling the mouth in hot weather ; they
were fold at 15 or 20 fous each. Strawberries
were ftill plentiful (fecond week in Augufl.)
Cerneaux, which are the kernel of green
walnuts, were jufl coming into feafon.
I had now no opportunity of acquiring any
more knowledge of the plants in France, and
Shall only add,, that I paffed the winter of
1783 and 1784, at Marfeille and at Hieres ;
and that befides oranges, _ lemons, cedras,*
piftachios,

*

Thefe trees are planted as clofe together as poffible, hardly
eight feet afunder, and no- room is left fur any walk.;, fo
that thefe gardens are, properly fpeaking, orange orchards.
Thi oranges were then fold at the rate of ten for a penny
Englifh.

( 48 )
piflacbios, pomegranates, and a few date
palm trees, I found feveral fpecies of gera
nium, myrtles, and cactus opuntia, (Indian fig)
growing in the foil, and likewife the mimofa
Jarnefana, fweet fcented fponge tree, or
fragrant acacia, the flowers of which are there
called fleurs de caffler ; thefe flowers, together
with thofe of the jafmine, and thofe which
fall from the orange and lemon trees, are fold
to the perfumers of Provence and Langue-
doc. Among the fmall plants, the arum arifarum,
(friar/s cowl) and the rufcus aculeatus (but
cher's broom) were the mofl confpicuoiw,
this latter is a pretty ever-green Shrub, and
the berries were there as large as thofe of a
common folanum pfeudo capjicum, (PJiny?e
amdmum, or winter cherry) and of a bright
fcarlet colour, iffuing from the middle of the
under Surface of the leaves ; I never faw
any of thefe berries any where elfe. Parkin*
fon, in his Theater of Plants, 1640, fays,
after defcribing three or four fpecies of this
genus, " They fcaffe beare flower* much leffe

( 49 )
leffe fruite, in our land." Perhaps the ber
ries might ripen in our hot-houfes.
Many arbutus, or ftrawberry-trees, grow
here, but they are not equal in fize and beauty
to many which I faw both in Portugal and
in Ireland.
In 1784, M. J. J. de St. Germain, a nur-
feryman in the Fauxbourg St. Antoine, pub
lished a book in 8vo of 400 pages, entitled
Manuel des Vegetaux, or catalogue in Latin
and French, of all the known plants, trees,
and Shrubs, in the world, arranged accord-*
ing to the fyflem of Linnaus ; thofe plants
which grow near Paris are particularly fpe-
cified, and a very copious French index is
added to the Latin one. The author died
a few years ago ; the- plants were fold, and
the nurfery ground is at prefent built upon. .

F, DOGS

( 5° )

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY.
LION Dogs and- Cats are common in
Paris. The lion-dog greatly refembles a lion in
miniature; the hair of the fore part of its
body is long, and curled, and the hinder
part Short ; the nofe is Short* and the tail is
long and tufted at the extremity; the
fmalleft are little larger than guinea-pigs,
thefe are natives of Malta, and are the raoft
valuable ; thofe which are produced in France
are considerably larger, and the breed de
generates very foon. Their general colour
is white ; they are frequently called Lexicons,
which word is derived, hot from a dictionary,
but from a French compound word of nearly
the fame found, defcriptive of one of their
properties. The lion-cat comes originally from Angora,
in Syria. It is much larger than the com mon

( 51 )
mon cat; its haif is very long, efpecially
aboil t the neck, where it forms a fine ruff,
of a filvefy whitenefs and filky texture, that
on the tail is three or four inches long ; thefe
cats frequently fpread their tails on their
backs, as fquirrels do. The colour is gene
rally white, but fometimes light brown;
they do not catch mice. This beautiful fpecies
does not degenerate Speedily, and it appears
to thrive better in Paris than in any other part
of Europe. The figures of both thefe animals
are in Buffon's Natural Hi/lory.
About the Palais Royal perfons are fre
quently found who offer for fale white mice
in cages ; thefe are pretty little animals, their
fur is fnow white, and their eyes" are red and
fparkling. Other perfons carried for fale
canary-birds, linnets, and two or three other
forts of fmall birds, perched on their fingers ;
thefe birds had been rendered fo tame that
they did not attempt to fly away.
But the greateft curiofity in Natural
Hiflory which I faw there, was a male child
E 2 with

( 52 )
with two heads and four arms ; it was then
three months old, the two faces were perfectly
alike, the npfes aquiline, the eyes blue, arid
the countenances pleafing; the two . bodies
were joined together at the cheft, and the
remainder was juft ^ke that of a common
male child; one navel, one belly, one penis,
one anus, and two legs. The two bodies
were face to face, fo that they could embrace
and kifs each other ; in their natural pofition
they formed an angle of 65 degrees, like the
letter Y. I remained above an hour with
this child, it's mother and the nurfe, and
Saw it fuck at both breafts at the fame time.
It was tolerably Strong, the fkin was very
Soft, and almoft tranfparent, the arms and
legs were very lean, and the latter were
croffed, and appeared incapable of being ex
tended voluntarily; fo that if the child Should
live two or three years, which I do not think
probable, it is not likely it will ever be able
to walk. One head would laugh while the
other cried, one head would fleep whilft the
other was awake ; the infpiration and expira
tion of the breath, in each, was alternate, that is

, ( 53 )
is to fay, one infpired while the other expired
its breath. There was nothing remarkable
in the mother (a peafant's wife) except her
obftinacy in refufing to difencumber thefe
two poor heads from a couple of thick quilt
ed blue fattin caps with which they had
dreffed them, and which I endeavoured to
convince both her and theinurfe would heat
the heads, fo as to be the means of fliortening
the child's life, and confequently of curtailing
the profits arifing from this unique exhi
bition. To this defcription an Engiifh phyfician,
who like wife faw it, adds, " It riiufl have
ct had two brains, as motion and fenfation
" were equal, and apparently perfect, in each
" head and cheft, and in all the four arms.
" It had two hearts, and two fets of lungs ;
" it had alfo two paiTages into the ftomach,
" but, as was fuppofed, only one fet of ab-
(e dominal vi/cera, as the belly was not larger
" than that of a common child of that age
" ufually is. The hearts arid arteries beat
" more Strongly than was confiftent with a
E 3 " long

( 54 )
" long continuance of health. The action
" of the arteries was plainly feen under the
" Skin." Mr. Buffon, in the Supplement to his Na
tural Hiflory, 'has given the figure and de
scription of a monfler fomething fimilar to this,
part of which defcription I fhall give in a
note, as a parallel to that of the living
child.* I went feveral times to. the National Affem-
bly ; the Tribunes, or Galleries, (of which there
* " In 1701 there were born in Hungary two Girls who were
joined together by the loin? ; they lived above twenty-one
years. At feven years old they were mown almoft all over
Europe ; at nine years of age a prieft purchafed them, and
placed them in a convent at Peterfburg, where they remained
till their death, which happened in 1723.' An account of them
was found among the papers of the furgeon who attended the
convent, and was fent to the Royal Society of London in 1757.
In this account we are told, that one of thefe twins was called
Helen, the other Judith. Helen grew up and was very handy,
Judith was fmaller and a little hump-backed. They were joined
together by the reins, and in order to fee each other they could
turn their heads only. There was one common anus, and of
courfe

( 55 )
there are three) entered warmly, by applaufes
and by murmurs and hiffes, into the affairs
v/hich were treated of.
E 4 Letters

eourfe there was only one common need of going to ftool, but
each had her feparate urinary palfage, and feparate wants,
which occafioned quarrels, becaufe when the weakeft was obliged
to evacuate, the ftrongeft, who fometimes would not ftand ftill,
pulled her away ; they perfectly agreed in every thing elfe, and
appeared to love each other. When they were feen in front,
they did not differ apparently from other women. At fix years
old Judith loft the ufe of her left fide by a paralytick ftroke ;
file never was perfectly cured, and her mind remained feeble
and dull ; on the contrary, Helen was handfome, intelligent
and even witty. They had the fmall-pox and the meafles at the
fame time, but all their other ficknefles or indifpofitions hap
pened to each feparately. Judith was fubject to a cough
and a fever, whereas Helen was generally in good health.
When they had almoft attained the age of twenty-two Judith
caught a fever, fell into a lethargy and died. Poor Helen was
forced to follow her fate ; three minutes before the death of
Judith fhe fell into an agony, and died nearly at the fame time.
When they were diffected it was found, that each had her own
entrails perfect, and even, that each had a feparate excretory
conduit, which however terminated at the fame anus." Linnaus
has likewife defcribed this monfter. Many figures of double
children of different kinds may be feen in Licetus de Monftris,
410. 1665 ; and in the Medical Mifcellanies, which were printed
in Latin at Leipzig, in feveral quarto volumes, in 1673,

( 5<5 ) ,¦
Letters are franked by the affembly as far
as-the frontiers, < by being Stamped with red
printers ink, Ajf. Nationale.
About this time many hundreds of folio
volumes of heraldry, and of the registers of
the nobility, were publicly burnt in la Place
Vendome, after due notice had been given
of the time and place by advertifements
pafled againfl the walls. , A wicked wag
obferved, that it was a pity all their books
of divinity, and almoft all thofe of law and >
phyfic, were not added to the pile but
he comforted himfelf with reflecting that $a
viendra. All the coats of arms which formerly de
corated the gates of Hotels are taken away,
and even feals are at prefent engraven with'
cyphers only.
The Chevaliers de St. Louis ftill continue
to wear the crofs, or the ribband, at the but
ton-hole ; all other orders of knighthood are
abolifhed. No liveries are worn by fervants,*
that badge of Slavery is likewife abolifh ed;

( 57 )
ed; and alfo all corporation companies, as
well as every other monopolizing fociety ; and
there are no longer any Royal tobacco nor fait
Shops. I went once to the Cafe\ de la Regence,*
with the intention of playing a game at chefs,
but I found the chefs- men fo very little
different in colour, that I could not diftinguifh
them fufficiently to be able to play. It
feems it is the fafhion for chefs -men at pre-
fent to be made 'of box- wood, and all nearly
of the fame colour. I then went to another
coffee-houfe frequented by chefs-players, and
here the matter was worfe; they had, in
addition to the above-mentioned fafhion, Sub
stituted the cavalier, or knight, for the fou, or
bijhop, and the bifiop for the knight, fo that
I left them to fight their own battles.
Books of all forts are printed without any
approbation or privilege. Many are expofed on
Stalls, which are very improper for the public eye.
* RoufTeau ufed to play at chefs here almoft every day, which
attracted .uch crowds of pe [ le to fee him, that the Lieutenant de
Police was obliged to place a fentinel at the door.

( 5* )
eye. One of thefe was called the Private
Life of the Queen, in two volumes, with ob-
fcene prints. The book itfelf is contemp
tible and difgufting, and might as well have
been called the Woman of Pleqfure. Of
books of this fort I faw above thirty, with
plates. Another was on a fubject not fit even
to be mentioned.
I read a fmall pamphlet, entitled " le Chrifl-
Roi, or a Parallel of the Sufferings of Lewis
XVI. &c." I can fay nothing in favor of it.
I found no new deiSlical books, the fubject
has already been exhausted, and every French
man is a philofopher now ; it may be necefr
fary here to recollect, that there are gra
dations in philofophy.
Since the Revolution, monarchs and courts
are not quite fo refpectfully mentioned in books
as they were formerly. The following few
examples are taken from Mr. du Laure's
CurioSities of Paris, in two volumes, 1791, third

( 59 )
third edition.* " Louis XIV. has his buSt
" in almoft every Street in Paris. After
*' the mofl trifling reparation of a Street it
" was cuSlomary to place his great wig- block
(tete a perruque) there. The faints have
" never obtained fuch multiplied Statues.
" That Hully (Fanfaron) as Chriflina, Queen
" of Sweden, ufed to call him, wanted to be
" adored even in turn-again alleys (culs-de
" Sac") Courtiers are here termed canaille
de la cour (the rabble of the court;) the
former aldermen of Paris {echevins) machines
a complimens (complimenting machines;)
and monks des bourreaux encapuchonnes (cowl
ed executioners.)
All the following articles of information
are taken from the fame work : The coloffal
Statue of St. Chriflopher is no longer in, the
church of Notre-Dame -, " He was, without
doubt, the greatest Saint Chriflopher in all
France.

* The fame author has likewife publifhed, Hijlorical Singu
larities of Paris, in a fingle volume, and a Defcription of the
Environs, in two volumes, 1 790,

( 60 )
France. This ridiculous monument of the
tafte and devotion of our ancestors has late
ly been demolished." ¦ ' *
" The court before the porch of this church
was confiderably enlarged in 1748, and at
the fame time a fountain was deflroyed,
againft which leaned an old Statue, which had
fucceflively been judged to be that of Efculapius,
of Mercury, of a Mayor, and of a BiShop of
Paris, and laftly, that of J. C."
" Entering the Street which leads to the
Pont-rouge, by the cloiSlers of this church,
the laft houfe on the right, under the arcades,
ftands where the canon Fulbert, uncle to
Eloifa, lived. Although it has been feveral
-times rebuilt during 600 years, there are ftill
preferved two Stone medallions, in bajfo-relievo,
which are faid to be the bufts of Abelard and
Eloifa." The number of inhabitants in Paris is com
puted at one million, one hundred and thirty
thoufand, (including one hundred and fifty
thoufand

( 6t )
thoufand flrangers) two huftdred thoufand of
which are, through poverty, exempt from the
poll-tax, and two hundred thpufand others
are fervants.
In 1790 there were in Paris forty-eight
convents of monks, containing nine hundred
and nine men ; the amount of their revenue
was eftimated at two millions, feven hundred
and fixty thoufand lives; five abbeys or
priories, eftimated at fix hundred and twelve
thoufand livres; feventy-four convents of
nuns, containing two thoufand, two hundred
and ninety-two women, their income two
millions and twenty- eight thoufand livres.
When to thefe we add the revenue of the
archbifhoprick, and of the fifteen collegiate
churches, of one million, fix thoufand and
five hundred livres, we Shall have a total
of upwards ' of Seven millions of livres
for the former ecclefiaflical revenue in Paris
only.* There
* Almoft £300,000 fterling, about a tenth part of the
Church income of the whole kingdom. The eftablifliment for
the

( 62 )
There are about fix hundred cofFee-houfes
in Paris.
In the faloon of the Louvre every other
year is an exhibition of pictures, in the months
of Augufl and September.
The Pont-neuf is one hundred toifes in
length and twelve in breadth. §
The cupola of the Halle au Bled, or corn
and flour market, is one hundred and twenty
feet in diameter; it forms a perfect half cir cle,

the Royal Family, or Civil Lift, is faid to have been forty mil
lions of of livres. Thu3 the Religion and the Monarch coft
one hundred and ten millions of livres annually (about five
millions fterling) the greater part of which fum is now appro
priated to other ufes. The convents are converted, or perverted,
into fecular ufeful buildings, and their inhabitants have been
fuffered to fpend the remainder of their lives in their former
idlenefs, or to marry and mix with fociety. Annuities have
been granted to them from thirty-five to fixty louis per annum,
according to their age.
§ ioso feet by 7». Weftminfter-bridge is 1220 feet long, but
only 44 feet wide.

( 63 )
cle, whofe centre is on a level with the
cornice, forty feet from the ground. The
vault or dome is compofed merely of deal
boards, four feet long, one foot broad and an
inch thick. J
Defcribing the church of St. John of the
Mififirels, fo Called, becaufe it was founded
by a couple of fidlers, in 1 3 30. M. du Laure
fays, " Among the figures of faints with
which- the great door is decorated, one is
distinguished who would play very well on
the fiddle, if his fiddle-Slick were not bro
ken," There is a parcel-poSt as well as a letter
penny-poSl in Paris.
The falafy of the executioner was eighteen
thoufand livres per annum ;-f* his office was to

% The inner diameter of the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome,
138 feet, which is the fame fize as that of the pantheon in Rome.
St. Paul's in London io8. The Invalids in Paris 50.
+ £75° fterling ; I know not the prefent falary.

- ( 64 )
to /break criminals on the wheel, and to in
flict every punishment on them which they
were fentenced to undergo.
There are no longer any Efpions de Police,
or fpies, employed by government. " That
army of thieves, of cut-throats, and rafcals,
ke,pt in pay by the ancient police, was per
haps a neceffary evil in the midfl of the
general evil of our old adminiftration. A
body of rogues and traitors could be protected
by no other adminiftration than fuch a one
as could only fubfift by crimes and perfidy.
Thofe were the odious refources of defpotifm.
Liberty ought to make ufe of fimple and
open means, which juSlice and morality will
never difavow."
There is a fchool at the point of the ifle
of St. Louis, in the river Seine, to teach
fwimming; perfons who chufe to learn in
private pay four louis, thofe who fwim among
others, half that fum, or half a crown a leffori ;
if they are not perfect in that art in a feafon,
(five fummer months) they may attend the
following feafon gratis. DRESS.

( 65 )

f

DRESS. INNS.

THE common people are in general mnrh
better clothed than they were before. the Re
volution, which may be afcribed to their "ot
being fojgrievoufly taxed as they were. An
^EngHfh Gentleman whoTiaT 'goneTfbr many
years annually from Calais to Paris, remarks,
that they are almoft as well dreffed on work
ing days at prefent, as they were on Sundays
and holidays formerly.
All thofe ornaments which three years ago
were worn of filver, are now of gold. All the
women of the lower clafs, even thofe who fit
behind green-flails, &c, wear gold ear-rings,
with large drops, fome of which cofl two or
three louis, and necklaces of the fame, Many
of the men wear plain gold ear-rings; thofe
wprn by officers and other gentlemen are
F ufually

( te )
ufually as large as a half-crown piece. Even
children of two years old have fmall gold
drops jn their ears. The general drefs of the
women is white linen or muflin gowns, large
caps which cover all their hair, excepting jufl
a fmall triangular piece over the forehead, po
matumed, or rather plaiflered and powdered,
without any hats : neither do they wear any
flays, but only corfets (waiflcoats or jumps.)
Tight lacing is not known here, nor yet high
and narrow heeled Shoes. Becaufe many
of the ladies ci-devant of quality have emi
grated or ran away, and that thofe which re
main in Paris, keep within doors, I faw no
face that was painted, excepting on the Stage.
Mofl of the men wdar coats made like great
coats, or in other words, long great-coats,
without any coat : this in fine weather and in
the middle of fummer made them appear to
me like invalides. There is hardly any pofli-
bility of diflinguifhing the rank of either man
or woman by their drefs at prefent, or rather,
there are no ranks to diflinguifh. The

( °7 )
The nation in general is much improved in
cleanlinefs, and even in politenefs. The
French no longer look on every Englishman -as
a lord, but as their equal,
The inns on the road from Calais, to Parisi
are as well furnifhed, and the beds are as clean
at prefent as almoft any in England. At
Flixcourt efpecially, the beds are remarkably,
excellent, the furniture elegant, and there is a
profufion of marble and of looking-glafTes in
this inn. The plates, difhes, and bafons which
I faw in cupboards, and on Shelves in the kit
chen, 'and which are not in conftant Ufe, were
all of filver, to which being added the fpoons
and forks of the fame metal, of which the
landlord pofiefTes a great number; the ladies
and gentlemen who were with me there, going
to and returning from Paris, eftimated the va
lue at, perhaps, a thoufand pounds flerling.
Now, if we allow only half this Sum to be the
value, it is, notwithftanding, considerable.
Every inn I entered was well fupplied with
filver fpoons, of various fizes, and with filver
four pronged forks ; even thofe petty eating-
F 2 houfes

( 68 )
houfes in Paris, which were frequented^ by
foldiers and fans-culottes.
There are no beggars to be feen abput the
Streets in Paris, and when the chaife flopped
for freSh horfes, only two or three old and in
firm people furrounded it and folicited charity,
whereas formerly the beggars ufed to affemble
in hundreds. I did not fee a fingle pair of
fabots (wpoden-fhoes) in France this time. The
table of the peaSants is alfo better fupplied
than it was before the revolution.

ASSIGNATS,

EXCEPTING the coins which I purchafed
at the mint in Paris, I did not fee a piece of
gold or filver of any kind ; a few brafsys/f, and
twofols were fometimes to be found in the
coffee-houfes, and likewife Monneron s tokens.

The

( 69 )
The mofl common ajjignats or bills are
thofe of five livres, which are printed on
Sheets ; each Sheet containing twenty of fuch
ajjignats, ox a hundred livres; they are cut out
occafionally, when wanted for change. I do
ri'6t know that there are any of above a thou
fand livres. The lowefl in value which I faw
were of five Jols, and thefe were of parch -
fnent. Thofe of five livres andupwards, have
the king's portrait Stamped on them, like that
on the coins.

Befides the national aj/ignais, which are cur-
fent all over Fra'nce, every town has its own'
ajjignats, of arid under, but not above five
livres ; thefe are only current in fuch town
and its neighbourhood.

The ajjignats of arid above five livres are
printed oh white paper, thofe which are
under, are for the convenience of the lower
clafs of people, of which few can rcaa", printed
on different coloured paper according to their
value; for iriflance, thofe of ten flols on blue
F 3 pape'f

>

( 70 )
paper, thofe of thirty on red, &c. though this
method is not correctly adhered to.
i
I had projected manyexcurfions intheneigh-
bourhood of Paris, which were all put a flop to,
in confequence of the events of the tenth of
Auguft, of which 1 Shall give a true and im
partial narrative, carefully avoiding every word
which may appear to favour either party, and
writing not as a politician, but as a Spectator.
I had written many anecdotes, as well ari-
Stocratical as democratical, but as I was unable
properly to authenticate fome of them, and
that others related to exceSTes which were in
evitable, during fuch a time of anarchy, I
thought it not proper to prejudice the mind of
the public, and have accordingly expunged
them all. I have only recounted facts, and
the readers may form their own opinion.
Some particulars relative to the maffacre in Au
guft, 1 572, are inferted to corroborate the de
fcription of the fimilar fituation of Paris, in Au
guft, 1792, though not from fimilar caufes. The
execrable

( 7* )
execrable maffacre abovementioned was com
mitted by raging fanatics, cutting the throats
of their defencelefs fellow-creatures, merely
for difference in religious opinion.

BATTLE AND MASSACRE AT THE
TUILERIES.
ON Thurfday, the 9th of Auguft, the le-
giflative body completed the general difcontent
of the people, (which had been raifed the pre
ceding day, by the difcharge of every accufa-
tion againft la Fayette) by appearing to pro
tract the queflion relative to the king's de~
cheance (forfeiture) at a time when there was
not a moment to lofe, and by not holding any
affembly in the evening.
- The fermentation increafed every minute,
in a very alarming manner. The mayor him-
felf had declared to the reprefentatives of the
nation, that he could not anfwer for the tran-
F4 . quillity

( 72 )
quillity of the city after midnight. Every
body knew that the people intended at that
hour to ring the alarm-bell; and to go to the
chateau of the Tuileries, as it was fufpected that
the Royal Family intended to efcape to Rouen,
and it is faid many trunks were found, pack
ed up and ready for taking away, and that
many carriages were feen that afternoon in
the court-yard of the Tuileries.
At eight in the evening the generale, (a
fort of beat of drum) was heard in all the
fections, the tocfn was likewiSe rung, (an
alarm, by pulling the bells of the churches, fo
as to caufe the clappers to give redoubled
Strokes in very quick time. Some bells were
Struck with large hammers.)
All the Shops were fhut, and alfo mofl of
the great gates of the hotels ; lights were
placed in almoft every window, and few of the
inhabitants retired to their repofe : the night
paffed however without any other distur
bance; many of the members of the National
Affembly were fitting foon after midnight,
4 and

( 73 )
and the others were expected. Mr. Petion,
the mayor, had been fent for by the king, and
was then in the chateau ; the number of
members neceffary to form a fitting, being
completed, the tribunes (galleries) demanded
and obtained a decree to oblige the chateau to
releafe its prey, the mayor ; he foon after ap
peared at the bar, and from thence went to the
commune (manfion-houfe.)
It was now about fix o'clock on Friday
morning (ioth) the people of the fauxbourgs
(fuburbs) efpecially of St. Antoine and St.
Marcel, which are parted by the river, afferh-
bled together on the Place de la Baflilk, and
the crowd was fo great that twenty-five per
fons were fqueezed to death.* At feven the
Streets were filled with armed citizens, that is
to fay, with federates (felect perfons fent from
the provinces to affifl at the Federation, or con
federacy held laft July 14) from Marfeilk, from
Bretagne, with national guards, and Parifian
fans-culottes, {.without breeches, thefe people have
* According to the Journal de la Jeconde legi/lature, feance de la
mat 11 Aout.

(t74 )
have breeches, but this is the name which hag
been given to the mob.) The arms confuted
of guns, with or without bayonets, piftols, Sa
bres, fwords, pikes, knives, Scythes, faws, iron'
crows, wooden billets, in Short of every thing
that could be ufed offenfively.
A party of thefe met a falfe patrol of twenty-
two men, who, of courfe, did not know the
watch- word. Thefe were inftantaneoufiy
put to death, their heads cut off and carried
about the flreets on pikes (on promena leurs
tetes fur des piques.) This happened in la-
Place Vendome ; their bodies were ftill lying
there the next day. Another falfe patrol, con-
fifling of between two and three hundred
men, with cannon, wandered all night in the
neighbourhood of the theatre f ran pais.: it. is
faid they were to join a detachment from the
battalion of Henri IV. on the Pont-neuf, to
cut the throats of Petism and the Marfeilloii,
who were encamped on the Pont St. Michel
(the next bridge to the Pont-nuef) which
caufed the then acting parifh aflemblies to or
der an honorary guard of 400 citizens, who
were

( 75 )
were to be anfwerable for the liberty and the
life of that magistrate, then in the council-
chamber. Mandat, commander-general of
-the National Guard, had affronted M. Petion*
when he came from the chateau of the Tuileries,
to go to the National Affembly ; he was ar
retted and fent to prifon immediately.
The infurrection now became general ; the
Place du Carrovfel (fquare of the Caroufals, a
fquare in the Tuileries, fo called from the
magnificent feftival which Lewis XIV. in
1662, there gave to the queen and the queen-
mother) was already filled ; the king had not
been in bed ; all the night had probably, been
fpent in combining a plan of defence, if attack
ed, or rather of retreat ; foon after feven the
king, the queen, their two children (the
dauphin, feven years old, and nis fifler four
teen)" Princefs Elizabeth, (the queen's fifter,
about 50 years old) and the Princefs de Ldm-
balle, croffed the garden of the Tuileries, which
1 was ftill fhut, efcorted by the National Guard,
and by all the Swifs, and took refuge in the
National

( 76 )
National Afferhbly, when the Swifs fetfifrted t6
their pofls in the chateau.
The alarm-bells, Which were inceflarifly
ringing, the accounts of the carrying heads
upon pikes, and of the march Pf ahrioft all
Paris in arms ; the prefence of the king, throw
ing himSelf, as it were, on the mercy of the
legislative body; the fierce and defefrilinate
looks of the galleries % all thefe things together
lad fuch an effect on the National Aflembh/;
that it immediately deefeed the fufpenfiori of
Lewis XVI. which decree was received With
univerfal applaufe and clapping.
At this m:.ment a wounded man rufhed in
to the Afllmbly, crying* " We are betrayed
" to arms, to arms, the Swifs are firing' on the
" citizens ; they have already killed a hundred
" Marfeillois."
This was about nine o'clock. The demo-
cfats, that is to fay, the armed citizens, as be-
forementioned, had dragged feveral pieces of
©annon, fix and four pounders, into the caroufel fquare,

( 77 )
fquare, and were affembled there, on the quais,
the bridges, an4 neighbouring Streets, in im-
menfe numbers, all armed ; they knew the
kuig was gone to the National Affemhly, and
came to infifl on his decheauce (forfeiture) or
refignation of the throne, AU the Swifs (fix
or feven hundred) came out to them, and per-r
mitted them to enter into the court-yard of
the Tuileries, to the number of ten thoufand,
themfelves ftanding in the middle, and when
they were peaceably Smoking their pippS; and,
drinking their wine, the Swifs turned back ta
back, and fired a volley on them, by which
I about two hundred were killed ;* the women
and children ran immediately into the river,
, up to their necks, many jumping from the pa
rapets and from thebridges, many were drown
ed, and many were Shot in the water, and on
the
*.. This is aflerted on the authority of all the French newfpa-
pers, and of feveral eye-witnefies. It will never be poffibk to
know the exact truth, for the people here faid to be the aggreflbr*
are all flain. — Thefe Swifs had trufted that they would have beea
backed by the National Guard, who, on the contrary, toqk the
part of the people, and fired on the Swifs (who ran into the cha
teau as foon as they had difcharged their pieces) by which fe-
¦rcral were killed.

( 78 )
the balustrades of the Pont-royal, from the
windows of the gallery of the Louvre.
The populace now became, as it were, mad,
they feized on five cannon they found in the
court yard, and turned them againfl the cha
teau ; they planted fome more cannon on the
Pont-royal and in the garden, twenty-two
pieces in all, and attacked the chateau on three
fides at once. The Swifs continued their fire,
and it is faid they fired feven times to the
people's once ; the Swifs had 3,6 rounds of
powder, whereas the people had hardly three or
four. Expreffes were fent feveral miles to the
powder-mills, for more amifiunition, even as
far as EJfonne, about twenty miles off, on the
road to Fontainebleau. The people contrived
however to difeharge their twenty- two can
non nine or ten times.* From nine to twelve
the firing was inceffant ; many waggons and
carts were conftantly employed in carrying away

*" The balls did no other damage to the palace than breaking
the windows, and leaving impreffions in theftones, perhaps an
inch in depth.

( 79 )
away the dead to a large excavation, formerly
a ftone quarry, at the back of the' new church
de la Madeleine de la ville I'Eveque (part of the
Fauxbourg St. Honore, thus called.)
Soon after noon the Swifs had exhaufled all
their powder, which the populace perceiving,
they 'Stormed the chateau, broke open the
doors, and put every perfon they found to the
fword, tumbling the bodies out of the windows
into the garden, to the amount, it is fuppofed,
of about two thoufand, having loft four thou
fand on their own fide. Among the flain in
the chateau, were, it is afferted, about two
hundred noblemen and three bifhops : all the
furniture was deflroyed, the looking-glaffes
broken, in fhort, nothing left but the bare
walls. Sixty of the Swifs endeavoured to efcape
through the gardens, but the horfe (gendar
merie nationale) rode round by the Street of St.
Honore, and met them full butt at the end of
the gardens ; the Swifs fired, killed five or fix
and twenty hprfes and about thirty men, and
r were

( 8o )
were then immediately cut to pieces ; the
people likewife put the Swifs porters at the
pont-tournant{txxxning bridge) to death, as well
as all they could find in the gardens and elfe-
where: they then fet Are to all the cafernes
(barracks) in the caroufel, and afterwards got
at the wine in the cellars pf the chateau, all
of which was immediately drank : many citi
zens were continually bringing into the Na
tional Affembly jewels, gold, lpuis d'ors, plat?,
and papers, an4 many thieves were, as foon
as difcpvered, inflantly taken tp lamp irons
and hanged by the ropes which, fufbend the
lamps. This timely feyerity, it is, fuppofed, [
faved Paris from an univerfal pillage, Fifty
or fixty Swifs were hurried by the populace to
the Place de Greve, and there put to pieces,.
At about three o'clock in the afternoon
every thing was tolerably quiet, and I ventured.1
out fprthe firft time that day.* j
The

* The whole of the foregoing account is taken from verbal in
formation, and from all the French papers that could be procured. Although

( 8i j
The qiiaiSi the bridges* the gardens, and
the immediate fcene of battle were covered
with bodies, dead, dying, and drunk ; many
wounded and drunk died in the night; the
Streets were filled with carts, carrying away
the dead, with litters taking the wounded to
hofpitals ; with women and children trying
for the lofs of their relations^ with men, wo
men, and children walking among and Striding
over the dead bodies,- in Silence, and with ap
parent unconcern ; with troops of the fans-cu
lottes running about, covered with blood, and
carrying, at the end of their bayonets, rags of
the clothes which they had torn from the bo-
dies_ of the dead Swifs, who were left flark
,naked in the gardens.
One of thefe fans-culottes was bragging
that he had killed eight Swifs with his own
hand. Anothef was obferved lying wounded,
all over blood, afleep or drunk, with a gun,
piflols, a fabre, and a hatchet by him.
G The
Although 1 was not an eye-witriefs, I was however an ear-wit-
nefs of the engagement, being only half a rnilediftant from it.

( 82 )
The courage and ferocity of the women
Was this day very confpicuous ; the firft per-
fon that entered the Tuileries, after the firing
ceafed, was a woman,1 named Teroigne, fhe
had been very active in the riots at Bruflels,
a few years ago; She afterwards was in prifon
a twelvemonth at Vienna, and when fhe was
releafed, after the death of the Emperor,
went to Geneva, which city She was foon
obliged to leave ; fhe then came to Paris,
and headed the Marfeillois; She began by
cleaving the head of a Swifs, who folicited
her protection, and who was inSlantaneouSIy
cut in pieces by her followers. She is agree •
able in her perfon, which is fmall, and is about
twenty-eight years of age.
Many men, and alfo many women, ' as
well of the order of Poiffardes (which are a
clafs almoft of the fame fpecies and rank with
our fifhwomen, and who are eafily diflingufh-
edby their red cotton bibs and aprons) as-
others, ran about the gardens, ripping open. the

C h )
the bellies j' and dafhing out the brains of
feveral of the naked dead Swifs ;*
At fix in the evening 1 faw a troop of
national guards and fans-culottes kill a Swifs
who was r,unnirtg away, by cleaving his
Skull with a dozen fabres at once* on the
Pont-royal, and then cafl him into the river,
in lefs time than it takes to read this, and
afterwards walk quietly om
The Shops were Shut all this day, arid alfo
the theatres ; no coaches were about the
Streets* at leafl not near the place of carnage ;
the houfes were lighted up, and patroles pa
raded the ftreets all night; Not a Single
houfe was pillaged* G i The

* At the taking of the Baftille, on the day of which only
tlghty-three perfons were killed on the fpot, though fifteen died
afterwards of their wounds j thefe Poijfardes were likewife foremoft
in bravery and in cruelty < fo much,- that the Parifians themfelves
ran away from them as foon as they faw them at a diftance.
They are armed; fome with fabres and others with pikes.

( 84 )
The barracks were ftill in flames, as well
as the hbufes of the Swifs porters' at the end
of the gardens ; thefe laft gave light to five
or fix waggons which were employed all night
in carrying away the dead carcafes.

STATUES PULLED DOWN. NEW NAMES.
THE next day, Saturday the nth, about
an hundred Swifs who had not been in the.
palace placed themfelves under the protection,?
of the National Affembly. They were fent
to the Palais Bourbon, efcorted by the Mar
feillois, with Mr. Petion at their "head, in
order to be tried by a court-martial.
The people were now employed, fome in
hanging thieves, others -with MademoifeHe Teroigne

( 85 )
Teroigne on horfeback at their head, in pulling
down the ftatues of the French Kings.
The firft was the equeflrian one in bronze
of Lewis XV. in the fquare of the fame name,
at the end of the Tuileries gardens ; this was
the work of Bouchardon, and was erected in
1763. At the corners of the pedeftal were
the ftatues, alfo in bronze, of ftrength, peace,
prudence, and " juftipe, by Pigalle. Many
fmiths were employed in filing the iron bars
' within the horfe's legs and feet, which faflen-
ed it to the marble pedeftal, and the fans-
culottes pulled it down by ropes, and broke it
to pieces; as like wife the four ftatues above-
mentioned, the pedeftal, and the new mag
nificent baluftrade of white marble which
furrounded it.
The next was the equeflrian ftatue of Lewis
XIV. in the Place Vendome, caft in bronze,
in a fingle piece, by Keller, from the model
of Girardon ; twenty men might .with eafe
have fat round a table in the belly of theKhorfe ;
it flood on a pedeftal of white marble of
thirty

( 86 )
thirty feet in height, twenty- four in length,
and thirteen in breadth. This flatue crufhed,
a man to pieces by falling on him, which muft
be attributed to the inexperience of the
pullers-down. The third was a pedeflrian flatue of Lewis
XIV. in the Place ViSloife, of lead, gilt, on
a pedeftal of white marble ; a winged figure,
reprefenting victory, with one hand placed
a crown of laurels on his head, and in the
other held a bundle of palm and olive branches,
The king was reprefented treading pn Cerberus,
•and the whole group was a fingle cafl. There
were formerly four bronze flaves at the cor*
ners of the pedeftal, each of twelve feet high ;
thefe were removed in 1790. The whole
monument was thirty-five feet high, andi
was erected in 1 689, at the expence of the
Duke de la Feuillade, who likpwife left his.
duchy to his heirs, on condition' that they
Should caufe the whole grpup to be new gilt
every twenty-five years ; and whp was buried,
under the pedeftal.

Qs

( 87 )
On Sunday the 12th, at about noon, the
equeflrian flatue, in bronze, of Henry IV.
which was on the Pont-neuf was pulled
down; this was erected in 1635, and was
the firft of the kind in Paris. The horfe was
begun at Florence, by Giovanni Bologna, a
pupil of Michael Angelo, finifhed by Pietro
Tacca, and fent as a prefent to Mary of Me
dic is, widow of Henry IV. Regent, It was
Shipped at Leghprn, and the veffel which
contained it was loft on the coafl of Norman
dy, near Havre de Grace, the horfe remained
a year in the fea, it was, however, got out and
fent to Paris in 1 6 1 4.
This Statue ufed to be the idol of the Pa
risians; immediately after the revolution it
was decorated with the national cockade;
during three evenings after the federation, in
1790, magnificent festivals were celebrated
before it.
It was broken in many pieces by the fall j
the bronze was not half an inch thick, and the

( 88 )
the hollow part was filled up with brick
earth. The fifth and laft was overthrown in the
afternoon of the fame day ; it was fituated in
the Place Royale ; it was an equeflrian flatue
in bronze, of Lewis XIII. on a vafl pedeftal
of white marble; it was erected in 1639.
The horfe was the work of Daniel Volterra ;
the figure of the king was by Biard.
The people were feveral days employed
in pulling down all the ftatues and bufts of
kings and queens they could find. On the
Monday I faw a marble or flone flatue, as
large as the life, tumbled from the top of the
Hotel de Ville into the Place de Greve, at that
time full of people, by which two men were
killed, as I was told, and I did not wifh to
verify the affertion myfelf, but retired, .
They then proceeded to deface and efface
every crown, evexyfleur de lis, every infcrip
tion wherein the words king, queen, prince,
royal, or the like, were found. The hotels arid

( §9 )
and lodging-houfes were compelled to erafe
and change their names, that of the Prince
de Galles muft be called de Galles only ; that
of Bourbon muSt have a new name ; a Sign
au lys d'.or (the golden lily) was pulled down;
even billiard tables are no longer noble or
royal. The Pont-royal, the new bridge of Lewis
XVI. the Place des ViSloires, the Place Royal,
the Rue d' Artois, &c. have all new names,
which, added to the division of the kingdom
into eighty-three departments, abolifhing all
the ancient noble names of Bourgogne, Cham
pagne, Provence, Languedoc,Bretagne, Navarre,
Normandie, &c. and in their Stead fubSlituting
Such as thefe : Ain, Aube, Aude,. Cher, Creufe,
Doubs, Eure, Gard, Gers, Indre, Lot, Orne,
Sarfe, Tame,- Var, &c. which are the names
pf infignificant rivers; to that Of Paris into
forty-eight new fections, and to all titles being
likewife abolished, makes it very difficult for
a ftranger to know any thing about the
geography pf the kingdom, nor what were the

{ 9° )
the ci-devant titles of fuch of the nobility as
Still remain in France, and who are at prefent
only known by their family names.

BEJIEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES.
BUT to return to thofe " active citizens,
whom ariftocratic infolence has Sliled fans-
culottes, brigands"*
On Sunday, they dragged a man to the
Hotel de Vilte, before a magistrate, to be tried',
for having flolen fomething in the Tuileries,
astthey faid. He was accordingly tried,
fearched, and nothing being found on him,
was acquitted; ri importe, faid thefe citizens,
we

* Thefe are the words of a French newfpaper, called, Journal
tmiverfel, ou Revolutions des Royaumes, par J. P. Audorin^ No. gg4;
for Sunday, 1 2 Auguft, 4th year of Liberty, under the motto
of Liberty, Patriotifm and Truth. 3

( 9i )
we muft have his head for all that, for we
caught him in the act of Stealing. They laid
him on his back on the ground, and in the
prefence pf the judge, who had acquitted
him, they fawed off his head in about a quar
ter of an hour, with an old notched fcythe,
and then gave it to the boys to carry about
on a pike, leaving the carcafe in the juftice-
hall.* At the corner of almoft every chief ftreet
is a black marble Slab, inferted in the wall
about ten feet high, on which is cut in large
letters, gilt, L&ix et aSles de I'autorite" pub-
fique (laws and acts of the public authority)
and underneath are pafled the daily and Some
times hourly decrees and notices of the Na
tional Affembly. One of thefe acquainted
the citizens, that Mandat (the former com
mander-general of the national guards) had
yefterday undergone the punishment due to
his
* This is inferted on the authority of a lady, a native of the
French Weft-India ifles, who refided in the fame hotel with me,
and who; with two gentlemen who attended her, were witnefles
p this tranfadtion, which they told to whoever chofe to 1 iften...

( 92 )
his crimes ; that is to fay, the people had cut
off his head.
During feveral days, after -the day I pro
cured all the Paris newfpapers, about twenty,
but all on the fame fide, as the people had
put the editors of the ariflocratic papers,
hors d' etat de parler (prevented their Speak
ing) by beheading one or two of them, and
deflroying all their preffes.
They, about this time, hanged two money
changers (people who gave paper for louis
d' or s, crowns, and guineas) under the idea that
the money was fent to the emigrants.
On the Saturday morning, at feven, I was in
the Tuileries gardens ; only thirty-eight dead
naked bodies were ftill lying there ; they were
however covered where decency required;
the people who flript them on the preceding
evening, having cut a gafh in the belly, and left
a bit of the fhirt flicking to the carcafe by
means of the dried blood. I was told, that
the body of a lady hadjuft been carried out of
the

< 93 )
the Caroufel fquare ; fhe was the only woman
killed, and that probably by accident. Here
I had the pleafure of feeing many beautiful
ladies (and ugly ones too as I thought)
walking arm in arm with their male friends,
though fo early in the morning, and forming
little groups, occupied in contemplating the
mangled naked and Stiff carcafes.
The fair fex have been equally courageous
and curious, in former times, in this as well
as in other countries ; and of this we fhall pro
duce a few instances, as follows :

COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE FAIR
SEX. MASSACRE IN I572.
' ON the 24th of AuguSt, St. Bartholemew's
day, 1 572, the maffacre of the Hugonots or
Cal-

( 94 )
or CalviniSts, began by the murder of
Admiral Coligni; the fignal was to have been
given at midnight ; but Catherine ofMedicis,
mother to the then King Charles IX. (who was
only two and twenty years of age) haflened
thefgnal more than an hour, and endeavoured
to encourage her fon, by quoting a paffage
from a fermon : " What pity do we not Shew.
in being cruel ? what cruelty would it not be
to have pity ?"
In Mr. Wraxall's account of this mafTacfe/
in his Memoirs of the Kings of France of the
Race of Valois, compiled from all the French
hiflorians, he fays, Soubife, covered with
wounds, after a long and gallant defence, was
finally put tp death under the queen -mother's
Windows. The ladies of the court, from a
favage and horrible curiofity, went to view
his naked body, disfigured and bloody.
An Italian firft cut off Coligni s head, which
Was prefented to Catherine ofMedicis. The po
pulace then exhaufled all their brutal and un-
reflrained fury on the trunk. They cut off the
hands, after which it was left on a dunghill ;
in,

( ,95 )
in the afternoon they took it up again, drag
ged it three days in the dirt, then on the
banks of the Seine, and laflly carried it to Mont -
faucon (an eminence between the Fauxbourg
St. Martin and the Temple, on which they
erected a gallows.) It was here hung by
the feet with an iron chain, and a fire lighted
under it, with which it was half roafled. In
this fituation ,the King and feveral of the
courtiers went to furveyit. Thefe remains were
at length taken down privately in the night,
and interred at Chantilly."
i ¦'¦Vv'
" During feven days the maffacre did not
ceafe, though its extreme fury Spent itfelf in
the two firft."
" Every enormity, every profanation, every
atrocious crime, which zeal, revenge, and cruel
^policy are capable of influencing mankind to
commit, Stain the dreadful regifters of this
trnhappy period. More than five thoufand
perfons of all ranks perifhed by various fpe
cies of deaths. The Seine was loaded with
carcafes floating on it, and Charles fed his
eyes

( 96 J
feyes from the windows of the Louvre, with
this unnatural and abominable Spectacle of
horror. A butcher who entered the palace
during the heat of the maffacre, boaSted to
his Sovereign, baring his bloody arm, that he
himfelf, had difpatched an hundred and
fifty." " Catherine ofMedicis, the prefidihg demon,
who fcattered destruction in fo many Shapes,
was not melted into pity at the view of fuch
complicated and extenfive mifery ; She gazed
with favage Satisfaction on the head of Coligni*
which was brought her."
Sully only Slightly mentions this maffacre .
of which he was notwithftanding an eye-wit-
nefs, becaufe he was but twelve years of age. -
Mezeray gives the mofl circumftantial ac
count of it ; he fays, " The Streets were
paved with dead or dying bodies, the portes-,
cocheres, (great gates of the hotels) were flop
ped up with them, there were heaps of them
in the public fquares, the Street-kennels over-
* flowed

( 97 )
flowed with blood, which ran gufhing into the
river. Six hundred ' houfes were pillaged at
different times, and four thoufand perfons were
maffacred with all the inhumanity and all the
tumult than can be imagined."
" Among the flain was Charles de Quelleue
Pontivy, likewife called Soubife, becaufe he had
married Catherine, only daughter and heirefs of
Jean de Partenay Baron de Soubife : this Lady
had entered an action againfl him for impo
tence ; His naked dead body being among
Others dragged before the Louvre, there were
ladies curious enough to examine leifurely, if
they could difcover the caufe' or the marks of
the defect of which he had been aceufed*"
Brantome, in his memoirs of Charles IX.
fays, ." As foon as it was day the king look
ed out of the window, and feeing that many
people were running away ,in the fauxbourg
St. Germain, he took a large hunting arque->
bufe, and -Shot at them many times* but in
Vain, fof the giiii did not carry fo far.* H6
H ' took
* The king was mooting from the Louvre, and the Fauxbourg
S/> Germain is on the other fide of the river. ,

C 98 )
took great pleafure in feeing floating in th»
river, under his windows, more than four
thoufand dead bodies."
A French writer, Mr. du Laure, in a De
fcription of Paris, juflpublifhed,fays, "About
thirty thoufand perfons were killed on that
night in Paris and in the country; few of the
citizens but were either affaffins or affaffinated.
Ambition, the hatred of the great, of a woman,
the feeblenefs and cruelty of a king/ the fpirit
of party, the fanaticifm of the pedple, animated
thofe Scenes of horror, which do not depofe fo
much againfl the French nation, at that time
governed by flrangers, as againfl the paflionS
of the great, and the ill-directed zeal of the
religion of an ignorant populace."
A few more modern inflances of female for
titude are given in a note.* MIS-
* On the 28th of March, 1757, Damiens, who ftabbed Lewis
XV. was executed in the Place de Greve, four horfes were to pull
his arms and legs from his body : they were fifty minutes pulling
in vain, and at laft his joints were obliged to be cut : he fupport-
«*d thefe torments patiently, and expired whilft the tendons of

( 99 )

MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN.
ON that fame Saturday morning the dead
Swifs, the broken furniture of the palace, and
the burning woodwork of the barracks, were
all gathered together in a vafl heap, and fet
fire to. I faw this pile at twenty or thirty
H 2 yards
tiis moulders were cutting, though he was living after his legs
^jind thighs had been torn from his body ; his right hand had pre-
vioufly been cut ofF. I was in Paris in 1768, and then, 'and at
various times fince have been aflured by eye-witnefles, that ah
irioft all the windows of the fquare where the execution was perj
-formed were hired by ladies, at from two to ten louis each*
Mr. Thicknefle in his " Year's journey through France and Part
of Spain," in a letter dated Dijon, in Burgundy, 1776, mentions a
man whom he faw broke alive on the wheel by, " the executioner
and his mother, who alfifted at this horrid bufinefs, thefe both
deemed to enjoy the deadly office."
I have formerly given an account of the Spanifli ladies «a»
.^oyityr t(je barbarities of the bull-fights.

( loo )
yards diftynce, and I was told that fome of the
women who were Spectators took out an arm
or a leg that was broiling, to tafte : this I did
not fee, but I fee no reafon for not believing it.
On the afternoon of this day, the coffee-
houfes were, as ufual, filled with idle people,
who amufed themfelves with playing at the
baby-game of domino.
No coaches exceotflacres (hackney-coaches)
were now to be feen about the ftreets ; the
theatres continued on the following mornings
to advertife their performances, and in the af
ternoon freSh advertifements were pafted over
thefe, faying, there would be reldche autheatfe
(refpite, intermiffion.) A few days after, fome
of the theatres advertifed to perform for the
benefit of the families of the flain, but few
perfons attended the reprefentation, through
fear ; becaufe the fans-culottes talked of pul
ling down all the theatres, which, they faid,
gataienf les maurs, (corrupted the morals) of
the people. Ever

( IQI )
Ever Since the ioth, I knew the barriers had
been guarded, to prevent any perfon from
leaving Paris, but I now was informed that
that had been the cafe, three days previous to
that day, which may feem to imply that fome
apprehenfions were formed, that violent mea-
fures would take place Somewhere.
About this time the officers were obliged by
the fans-culottes to wear worfted inftead of
gold or filver Shoulder- knots; and no more
cloudy carriages were to be feen in the
Streets. Portraits of the king, with the body of a
hog, and of the queen, with that of a tygrefs
were engraven and publicly fold. «A book
was published, entitled, Crime's of Louis XVI.
the author of which advertifed that he was
then printing a book of the Crimes of the Popes,
after which he intended to publiSh the crimes
of all the potentates in Europe.
As I could not get out of Paris, to make
any little excursions to nurfery and other gar-
• -,;.. H 3 dens,

(.102 )
dens, to Vincennes, to Montreuil, and as the in
habitants pf Paris were too much alarmed to
retain any relifh for fociety, (public places out
of the queflion,) I was defirous. of getting away
as foon as poffible, and applied firft to the
ufual officers for a pafs, which was refufed.
That of Lord Gower (the ambaffador) was at
this time of no ufe, but it became fo after
wards, as Shall be mentioned.
On the Monday .(13th Auguft) I wrote a
letter of abPut ten lines to the Prefident of the
National Affembly, foliciting a pafs. This I
parried myfelf, and fent it in by one of the
cjerks. The Prefident immediately read the
letter, and the Affembly decreed a pafs for me;
but the next day, when I applied for it to the
fomite de furveillance, (committee of inspec
tion) it, or they, knew nothing of the matter.
I then went to the mairie (mayoralty houfe)
hut in vain.
Here an officer of the national guard who
had been prefent during the whole of the batr-
Ltle of the iotjh, faid to me, " La iournei a
eii

( 103 )
ete un peu forte, nous avons eu plus de quinze
cens des notres de tues," (the day was rather
' warm ; we have had more than fifteen hun
dred of our Own people killed.) This was
confirmed by many more of the officers there,
with whom I had a quarter of an hour's con-
verfation, and they all eftimated the number of
the flain at above fix thoufand, which may
ptobably be accounted for in the following
manner, but a demonstration is impoSfible.
Some affert that there were eight hundred
Swifs foldiers in the chateau of the Tuileries ;
others but five hundred : let us take the me
dium of fix hundred and fifty. ' They had, as
every one allows, fix and thirty charges each,
' and they fired till their ammunition was ex
pended. This makes above three and twenty
thoufand Shot, every one of which muft have
taken place, on*a mob as thick as hailflones af
ter a fhower : but allowing for the Swifs them
felves, who were killed during the engage
ment, which diminifhes the number of Shot,
and then allowing likewife, that of two thou-*
fand perfons whp were in the palace, we here
H 4 fay

( i ?4 )
_fay nothing of the remaining thirteen, or four
teen hundred, mofl of whom were firing as
well as- they could, perhaps it may not ap
pear exaggerated to fay, that out of above
twenty thoufand Shot, four thoufand muft
have taken place mortally ; and this includes
the fifteen hundred of the national guard, which
were certainly known to be miffing. Of the
other two thoufand five hundred flain, the
number could not fp correctly be ascertained,,
as they confifled of citizens without regimen
tals or uniform, and of fans-culottes, none of
whom were regiftered, AU the perfons in the
palace were killed ; of thefe, few, if any, were
taken away immediately, whereas when any of
the adverfe party were killed, there were peo
ple enough who were glad »of the opportunity
of efcaping from this Slaughter, by Carrying
away the corpfe. We mufl then reflect on
the number of waggons and carts employed all
night in the fame offices, and then we Shall fee
great reafon to double the number of the flain,
&§ has h.?en done in various publications.

No

( io-5 )
No idea of this number could be formed by
jfeeing the field of battle, becaufe feveral bodies
were there lying in heaps, and of the others
not above two. or three could be feen at a
time, as the ftreets were after the engagement
filled with fpectators, who walked among and
over the carcafes.
Of the feelings of thefe fpectators, I judge
by my own : I might perhaps have difliked
feeing a fingle dead body, but the great num
ber immediately reconciled me to the fight.

BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASS
PORTS. '
...Vl', ,
ANOTHER particular relative to the
fans-culottes is their ftandard, being an old pair
of breeches, which they carry on the top of a
,pike, thruft through the waiftband : the
poiffardes likewife ufe the fame ftandard, though

( 106 )
though it fo happened that I never faw it, On
the memorable 20 th of June laft, a pike-man
got on the top of the Tuileries, where he
waved the enfign, or rather fhook the breeches
to the populace.
The pike -Slaves for the army are of diffe
rent lengths ; of fix, nine, and twelve feet :
by this means three ranks of pike-bearers can
life their arms at once, with the points of the
three rows of pikes evenly extended.
The letter which I had written to the Pre
fident, notwithftanding its eventual ill fuccefs,
caufed feveral English perfons jointly to write
a fomewhat fimilar letter ; in which, after hav
ing reprefented that their wives and children
wanted them, they faid, they hoped their reafons
would appear vrai-femblables, or have the fem-
blance of truth. The Affembly on hearing
this burft into a laugh, and paffed on to the
order of the day.
On the 1 6th I carried a paffport from Lord
Gower to the office of Mr. le BrM, the mini-
3 Iter

( i°7 )
Iter for foreign affairs ; here I was told to leave
it, and I fhould have another in its Stead the
next day. The next day I applied for it, and
was told, no paffports could be delivered.
The matter now appeared to me to become
ferious, as the courier who had carried the ac
count of the affair of the ioth to London was
not yet returned, and that rumours were
fpread, that the Englifh in Paris were almoft
all grands feigneurs & arijlocrates ; fo that I
faw only two probable means of fafety ; one of
which was, to draw up a petition to the Na
tional Affembly, in behalf of all the Britifh
Subjects, to get it figned by as many as I could
find, and who might chufe to fign it, and to
carry it to the Affembly in a fmall body,
which might have been the njeans of procuring
a pafs ; and in cafe this was refufed, the other
plan would have been for all the British to
have incorporated themfelves into a Legion
Britannique, and offered their fervices accord
ing to the exigence of the cafe.* This peti tion
* Before, and on the ioth of Auguft, there were not above '
thirty Britifh travellers in Paris, but. after that day, in lefs than
a week it was fuppofed that above two thoufand had from all
parts of the kingdom reforted to the capital, in order to obtaut
paflports to get away.

( io8 )
tion was accordingly, on the 18 th, drawn up
Jby a member of the Englifh Parliament;
tranflated into French, and carried about to be
Signed ; when at the bankers We fortunately
met with a perfon who informed us, that our
paffes were ready at the moment, at Mr. Le
Brun's : thither we went ; I obtained my
pafs at two o'clock afternoon, the petition was
torn and given to the winds ; I took a hackney
coach that inftant, to carry me to the Pofle aux
chevaux, ordered the horfes, and before three I
was out of the barriers of Paris.
Here follows a copy of my paffport.
At the top of the paper is an engraving of a
Shield, on which is infcribed Vivre libre ou
mourir (live free or die,) Supported by, two fe
male figures, the dexter reprefenting Minerva
Standing, with the cap of liberty at the end of
a pike ; the Jinifler, the French conftitution
perfonified as a woman fitting on a lion, with
one hand holding a book, on which is written
Conftitution Frangaije, droits de l' homme, and
with the other fupporting a crown over the
Shield

( *o9 )
Shield, which crown is effaced by a dafh with
a pen. Then follows,
La nation, la loi, le roi ; this is alfo oblite
rated with a pen, and inftead is written
Liberie', Egalite
Au nom de la nation.
A tous officiers, civils et militaires, charges
de furveiller et de maintenir 1' ordre public
dans les differents departemens du Rpyaume, et
a tous autres qu'il appartiendra il eft ordonne
de laiffer librement paffer T  anglais re-
tournant en angleterre,porteur d'un certiflcat de
fon ambafadeur* Sans donner ni fouffrir qu'il
lui foit donne aucun empechement, le prefent
paffe-port valable pour quinze jours feulement. Donne

, * What is here in italics is in manufcript. in the original.
There is no Monfteur nor Madame, the word anglais Ihowing the
gender of the perfon to whom the pafs was granted, and is fuf-
-ficient for the purpofe.

( no )
Donne a. Paris le 16 aoufl Tan 4 de la
liberte Vu a la Mairie le 17 aoufl ij$2.
L'an 4.e de la liberie'. Petion.
Here is an impreffion, in red wax, of the
arms of Paris, which are gules, a three-maft
Ship in full fail, a chief azur, feme With fleurs
de lis, or, the Shield environed with oak branches
and the cap of liberty as a creft. The in
fcription underneath is Mairie de Paris, 1789.
On one fide of this feal is an efcutcheoh with
the arms of France, crowned, and over the
crown there is a dafh with a pen. And under
neath, Gratis. Le miniftre des affaires etrangeres
Vu paffer Abbeville en Le Brun.
Confeil permanent le 20
Aoufl 1792. Signed by a municipal officer ?
And

( in )
Arid on the back of the paffport,
Vu au comite de la feffion poijfonniere
ce 1 8 aoufl 1792.
Signed by two commiffaries at the barriers of
St. Denis, at Paris.
Per mis d' embarquer a Calais le 22 aoufl.
1792. Signed by a Secretary.

Miscellanies, dancing, poultry.
taverns. wig.
SOME days before the demolition of the
tatue of Henri IV. on the Pont-neuf, there
was a flag placed near that flatue, on which
ivas painted citoyens la Patrie eft en danger ;
[citizens, the mother-country is in danger)
tnd it ftill remained there . when I came'
tway. On

( "a )
On the Monday after the Friday, I faw a
paper on the walls, among thofe publifhed by
authority, whefein a perfon acquainted the
public, that on the preceding Saturday, in con-
fequence of fome fufpicions which had been
entertained of his principles, his houfe had been
vifited by above thirty thoufand perfons ;* and
that notwithftanding mafons and fmiths had
been employed in pulling down, breaking
open and fcrutinizing, the people had found
nothing to criminate him, and he had found
nothing miffing in confequence of their fcru-
tiny. I had the pleafure of reading this aloud
to an affemblage of elderly ladies, not one of
whom could fee to read it, as it was placed out
of their focus, of too high, as they faid.
Before the ioth I faw feveral dancing par
ties of the Poijfardes and fans-culottes in the
beer.-houfes, on the Quai des Ormes and the
Quai St. Paul, and have played the favourite
and animating air of ga ira, on the fiddle, to
eight
* Poco mas o menos, (a little more or lefs) as the Spaniards.
fay when they are complimented with Viva V. S, mil anos (may
you live a thoufand years.) , -.;.

( "3 )
eight couple of dancers; the ceiling of thefe
rooms (which open into the ftreet) is not above
ten feet high, and on this ceiling (which is
generally white WaShed) are the numbers i 2
to 8, in black, and the fame in red* which
mark the places where ihe ladies and gentle
men are to Stand. When the dance, was con
cluded, I requested the ladies to falute me
(m'embraffer), which they did, by gently
touching my cheek with theif lips. But a
period was put to all thefe amufements by the
occurrences of the ioth; after which day,)
mofl of my time Was employed in endeavour-*
ing to obtain a paffport.
On the Quai des Auguftins, at fix or feven in
the morning, may be feen a market of above
a quarter of -a mile long, well Stocked with
fowls, pigeons, ducks, geefe and turkies : thefe
birds are all termed Volaille. Rabbits are like-
wife fold in this market. I alfo faw here a
few live pheafants, red-legged; partridges and
quails in cages, for fale. ,
I i did

( *H )
I did not fee a louis d'or this time in Paris j
it is probable that a new golden coin may be
Struck of a different value and name, and with
out the name of the die-engraver.
There are few, if any, tables d'Mte (ordinal
ries) in Paris at prefent, except at the inns*
I have not feen any for many years, becaufe
the hour of dining at them is about one
o'clock, and that is cuflomary to be ferved in
thofe coffee-houfes which are kept by re-
Jlaurateurs and traiteurs (cooks) after the Eng
lifh manner, at fmall tables, and there are bills
of fare, with the prices of the articles marked*
The moft celebrated of thefe houfes is called
la Taverne de Londres, in the garden of the
Palais-Royal ': here are large public rooms,
and alfo many fmall ones, and a bill of fare
printed on" a folio Sheet, containing almoft
every fort of provifion, (carp, eels, and pickled
Salmon are the only fifh I have feen there.)
An Englishman may here have his beef-fteak,
plum-pudding, Chefhire cheefe, porter and
punch jufl as in London, and at about the
fame price, (half the price as the exchange then

( H5 )
then was.) Thirty-five forts of wine are here
enumerated. That of Tokay is at two livre s
for a fmall glafs, of which a quart-bottle may
contain about fifteen. Rhenijh, Mountain,
Alicante, Rota, and red Frontignan at 6 livres.
Champagne, Claret, Hermitage, 4 /. i of. Port
3 /. \o f. Burgundy 3 /. Porter 2 1. 10 f. Moft
of the difhes are of filver, and I dined at two
or three other taverns where all the difhes and
plates were of filver.
The barbers or hair-dreflers have generally
written on their Sign Ici on rajeunit : rajeunir
means properly to colour or die the hair, but
in this inftance it only expreffes, here people
are made to look younger than they are, by
, having their hair dreffed. I faw a peruke-
maker's fign reprefenting the fable of the man
and his two wives, thus : A middle-agedgentle-
man is fitting in a magnificent apartment, be
tween an old lady and a young one, fafhion-
ably dreffed. His head is entirely bald, the
old lady having juft pulled out the black hairs,
as the young one did the grey : and Cupid is
flyingover his head, holdinganice periwig ready
toput on it. I Z

( "6 )

EXTENT, POPULATION, &C. OF FRANCg.
THE authorities for a great part of what
follows are Mr. Rabaut's Hiftory of the Re
volution, 1792 ; Mr. du Laure' s Paris, 1791,
Geographiede France, 1792, Second edition, and
Voyage dans les Departemens de la France, 1792.
France is a country which extends nine de
grees from North to South, and between ten
and eleven from Eaft to Weft, making fix and
twenty thoufand fquare leagues, and contain
ing twenty-feven millions of people. In
1790, " There were four millions of armed
men in France ; three of thefe millions wore
the uniform of the nation." The number of
warriors, or fighting men is very confiderably
increafed fince that time.
" In this immenfe population is found
at leafl three millions of individuals of dif
ferent

( «7 ] )
ferent religions, whom the prefent catholicks
look upon with brotherly eyes. The protef-
tant and the catholick now embrace each other
on the threshold where Coligni was murdered;
and the difciples of Calvin invoke the Eter
nal after their manner, within a few paces*
of the balcony from whence Charles IX.
Shot at his fubjects."
The capital, when compared to London, for
extent is as 264 to 195, (nearly as 7 to 5) that
I 3 is
* The church of St. Louis du Louvre is at prefent made ufe
of as a place ofworfhip by proteftants.
All the church lands are reverted to the nation.
In a fpeech which the AbbS Maury made in the National Af
fembly, about two years ago, he eftimated the value of the pro
perty belonging to ecclefiafticks in France at two thoufand two
hundred miHions of livres, (Deux milliards deux cens viillionsj near
ninety-two millions fterling, the intereft or produce of which, at
3!" per cent, per annum, amounts to the three millions before-
mentioned. France fuffices to itfelf; it contains all the indigenous pro
ductions of Europe.
The French hope, that the number of foreigners who will
tefort to their country, after it fhall be more fettled, will abun
dantly compenfate the lofs of the emigrants.

C 1x8 )
is to fay, according to the calculation before-
mentioned (p. 28) Paris Stands on 6 -fir fquare
miles of ground, and London pn 55%^.
It contains a million and 1 30 thoufand in
habitants, which is fifty thoufand more than it
did two years ago ; thefe formerly inhabited
Verfailles, and left it at the time the court dj,cL
Lyon contains 1 60 thoufand perfons.
Marfeille, the moft populous, in proportion
to the Size, of any city in Europe, contains, in
a Spot of little more than three miles in cir
cumference, 120 thoufand perfons, which in-;
eludes about 30,000 mariners on board of the
Ships in the harbour,* Bordeaux

* I was there in 1768, and again in 1783 and 1784, above
four months. People of all nations are there feen in their proper
habits; all languages arefpoken ; it is a free port, and theftaple
of the Levant trade, as well as of the Weft-Indian commerce.—
There are regular veffels which fail monthly to Constantinople-

< "9 )
Bordeaux, 100,000. The population of
many more cities is given in a note,* befides
which there are others, the number of whofe
inhabitants I cannot learn, fuch as Touloufe,
Toulon, Brefl, Orange, Blois, Avignon, &c.
The nation gains five millions Sterling
per annum by the reduction of its expences,
and by not having any unneceffary clergy
men to maintain, -j- and the forfeited eftates
J 4 of

'thoufand muft be read after all the following figures.

* Dunkerque -

80

Befanfon - -

26

Rouen - - -

73

Aix - - -

25

Lille - -

65

Bourges - -

25

Nantes

60

Tours r - -

22

Nifmes - -

5°

Arras

22

Strajbourg - -

46

Limoges

22

Amiens

44

Abbeville - -

20

Metx - -

40

Verdun - -

20

Caen

40

Aries - - -

20

Orleans - -

40

Dijon - -

20

Rennes • -

35

Valenciennes

20

Nancy - - -,

3+

St. Malo -

18

Montpellier

3*

Beziers

18

Reims - - -

30

Sedan - - -

18

Clermont - -

30

Carcajfonne^

18

Tfoyes -

30

Havre d,e Grace

18

Grenoble - -

3°

Moulins - -

'7

La Rocbe/le

- 16

Poitiers

- 16

Auxerre

- j6

Perpigjian -

- |6

Chalons

- 'S

Beawvais -

15

Riom - -

- «5

Ncvers

- i4

Boulogne -

- 12

Bayonne »

- 13

Soiffons , -

12

Angouleme

- II

Pau -,

- ir

Atby - -

- I<>

Alais - •

-1 l»

Grajfe - -

- IO

Verfaiiles -

- IO

•}• By a decree in November, 1789, no curate is to have lefs
falary than fifty Louis per annum, not including his houfe
'and garden. Many of the French at prefen,t think that
clergy-

( w )
of the emigrants are estimated at immenfp
Sums- §
The heavy taxes on fait (la gabelle) and
on Tobacco are fuppreffed, and thofe two
articles are allowed tp be objects of com*
merce.* " No city in the world can offer fuch a
Spectacle as that of Paris, agitated by fome
great paffion, becaufe in no other the com
munication is fb fpeedy, and the Spirits fo
active

clergymen fhould be retained like phyficians, and paid by thofe
only who want them. By this means, they fay, religious quar
rels would be avoided ; of all quarrels the moft abfurd, becaufe
nobody can underftand any thing about the matter. " Perfonne
n y entend rien."
§ The civil lift mentioned in page 62, was according to the
old eftablifhment.. In January, 1790, the king was requefted
to fix a fum for the civil lift himfelf, and in June following he
fent a letter to the National Affembly, demanding five ancj
twenty millions of livres. It was decreed that inftant.
f Salt, which was formerly fold at fourteen fols per pound, is
sow at a fingle fol. Tobacco is permitted to be cultivated by
'.'. whoever will."

( 121 )
active. Paris contains citizens from all the
provinces,. and thefe various characters blend
ed together compofe the national character,
which is diftinguifhed by a wonderful im-
petuofity. Whatever they will do is done."
Witnefs the taking of the Baftille in a fingle
day, which had formerly withstood the fiege
of a whole army during three and twenty
days. And witnefs the ioth of Auguft,
I have been frequently told by perfons in
England, that a regular and disciplined army
may eafily crufh a herd of raw and inexpe
rienced rabble, ' fuch as they Suppofed the.
French were, although ten times more nu
merous. This may poffibly be the event
in fmall numbers, but if we Slate the cafe
with large numbers, for inftance fifty thou
fand men of the greatest courage, and of the
moft perfect difcipline, anctwho are fighting
for pay, without any perfonal motive, againfl
five hundred thoufand men, whom we fhall
fuppofe utterly ignorant of the art of war,
but who conceive they are fighting for their
liberty and their country, for their families and

( 122 )
and their property, and then reflect on the
courage and bravery of thefe very men, on
their impetuofity, their acharnement, or def-
perate violence in fight, which may be com-,
pared to the irrefiftible force of water- Spouts,
and of whirlwinds, it may not appear top
partial to conjecture, that fuch perfons may
perceive fome little reafon for Suspending,
if not for altering, their opinion,* and may:
now
"* I faw many thoufands of thefe men (from my windows)
on their way to the Tuileries, early on the Friday morning ;
their march was at the rate of perhaps five miles an hour, without
running or looking afide ; and this was the pace they ufed when
they carried heads upon pikes, and when they were in purfuit
of important bufinefs, rulhing along the ftreets like a torrent,
and attending wholly and folely to the object, they had in view.
On fuch occafions, when I faw them approaching, I turned info
fome crofs ftreet till they were paffed, not that I had any thing
to apprehend, but the being fwept along with the crowd, and
perhaps trampled upon. I cannot exprefs what I felt on feeing
fuch immenfe bodies of men fo vigoroufly actuated by the
fame principle. I faw alfo many thoufands of volunteers go
ing to join the armies at the frontiers, marching along th^
Boulevarts, almoft at the fame pace, accompanied as far as the
Barriers by their women, who were carrying their mufkets fop
them ; fome with large faufages, pieces of cold meat, and
loaves of bread, ftuck on the bayonets, and all laughing, or
finging (a ira.
The French writers themfelves fay, " In all popular com
motions the women have always mown the greateft boldnefs."

( i23 )
now eftimate the degree of danger this na
tion may apprehend from the attacks of ex
traneous powers, provided its own people are
unanimous,

EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS.
RETURN TO CALAIS.
THE paragraph at the bottom of page
li, is intended to be merely defcriptive, but
not ludicrous, fo that the reader is requefted
to expunge the word night.
In the enumeration of the BiShopricks
(page 14) I unaccountably omitted the ten
metropolitan fees, which are thofe of Paris,
Lyon, Bourdeaux, Rouen, Reims, Befangon,
Bourges, Rennes, Aix and Touloufe: Thus
there are eighty-three biShopricks, or one for
each department. After

( 124 )
After what is faid (in page 89) relative to
the division of the country, there fhould, in
juftice, be added : " To the confufed medley
of Bailiwicks, Senefchal-jurtfdiSlions, Elections,
Generalities, Diocefes, Parliaments,. Govern
ments, &c. there fucceeded a fimple and
uniform divifion ; there were no longer any
provinces, but only one family, one nation :
France was the nation of eighty- three de
partments." Notwithstanding this, I regret
the ancient names of the provinces. The
old Atlas of France is become ufelefs, as the
whole of its geography is altered. The
land is at prefent divided into nine regions,
and each of thefe into nine departments ;
Paris and the country about ten miles around
(24 fquare leagues) forms one, and the ISland
of Corfica another department. In the mo
dern Atlas, after every new name, is put
ci-devant \ and then the old name, thus:
Region du Levant, depdrtement de la cote d 'or,
ci-devant Bourgogne. I called one day, after
dining in a tavern, for a bottle of wine of
the Departement de /' Aube, Region des Sources,
the landlord confulted his Atlas, and then
brought

( 125 )
brought the bottle of Champagne I required.
It will be fome time before foreigners are
Sufficiently familiarized to the new phrafes
which mufl be ufed for Gafcon, Normand,
Breton, Provencal, Picard, &c*
The following paragraphs are taken from
the new Voyage de France.
" During fourteen hundred years, priority
in follies, in fuperftition, in ignorance, in fa-
naticifm, and in flavery, was the picture of
France. It was juft, therefore, that priority1
in philofophy, and in knowledge, Should fuc-
ceed to fo many odious pre-eminences."
" The

"* The author of the Voyage de France fays, " The aclual di-
vifion of France may appear to geographers as defective as the
ancient one. Perhaps artifts fhould have been more confulted.
Then there would not have been fhewn in it fo much of the fpirit
of party, which, in great affemblies, too often fmothers the voice
of reafon, nor fo many effects of the ignorance of political
meafurers, who lightly ftride over barriers which nature has
oppofed to them, and who appear to have forgotten the necef-
fity of communications,"

'{ 126 )
'* The French people, to whom liberty is
how new, are like the Waves of the fea, which
roll long after the tempeSt has ceafed : and
of which the agitation is neceffary to depofe
on the Shores the fcum which covers them."
" The confufion infeparable from a new
order of things, has neceffarily caufed Paris
to Swarm with vagabonds; fo that far from
being Surprized that Some crimes have been
committed, we ought rather to wonder that
they are not more frequent/'
*' When Louis XVI. was brought back
to Paris (25 June, 1791) the inhabitants
of the fauxbourgs pafled a placard (advertife-
ment) againfl the walls, faying, " Whoever
" applauds him Shall be cudgelled, whoever
" attacks him Shall be hanged." An awful
filence was obferved."
After the account of the Pantheon (p. 28)
fhould be added: In April, 1791, the body
of Mirabeau was deposited here ; and in July
following that of Voltaire. Soon after this it

( 127 )
it was decreed, that Roujfeau had merited
the honours due to great men, but that his
afhes fhould remain where they were.
To the lift of engravings of the Maiden
muft be added another, prefixed to a little
tract, called Gibbet-Law.
By premier An de V Egalite, (firft year of
Equality) it is not to be understood that
every perfon in France is equal, but that
as they have no fovereign, no perfon is above,
but every perfon is equally under the
protection of the law. This matter has been
both mifunderftood and mifreprefented in
England. On the 1 8 th I was out of the barriers of
Paris by three in the afternoon, and proceed
ed to Chantilly, where we* arrived at nine,
and remained for the night. We were in
formed
* The Gentleman who came with me, an Englilh and an
Irifh Gentleman, with their Ladies, in their own chaifes.
There is an octavo Defcription of Chantilly juft publifiied, with a
map, and twenty mezzotinto views of the gardens.

( 128 )
formed that- two hundred Sans-culottes and
Marfeillois had walk'd here from Paris,
(28 miles) two or three days before, had
pulled down an equeflrian Statue, (probably
that of the Conftable de Montmorenci) cut off a
man's head, carried it about the ftreets on a
pike, a la mode de Paris, caught and eat moft
of the carp which had been fwimming in
the ponds which furround the palace above
a hundred years, were then in the Stables
and intended to return to Paris the next dayv
They did no other damage fo the building
than breaking the Condi arms, which were
carved in Stone.
The night of the next day we paffed at
Flixcourt, and that of the Monday at the
Poft-houfe, at the foot of the hill on which
Boulogne is fituated.
On Tuefday the 21ft we arrived at Calais
in the morning ; the wind was fo violent and
unfavorable that we were detained here till
the 24th, when we failed, and had a paffage
of feven hours to Dover.
3 There

( i*9 )
There was nothing to remark on the road
from Paris to Calais, except that the har-
veft was not yet got in, for want of hands,
that the com was lodged, and fowing itfelf
again ; that evary perfon and thing was as
quiet as if nothing had happened in Paris, and
that no one knew the particulars of what had
happened. At Calais many perfons wore trowfers,-
after the fafhion of the Sans-culottes.

EPILOGUE.

SOON after my return to London the two
following paragraphs appeared in the news
papers. /*
" T. has been over to France, botanizing,
and has gotten what he went to Seek."
" I'll tell you, my Lord Fool,
From this Nettle danger we pluck the'
Flower fafety." *
K This

( *30 )!
This I infert merely on account of the
Betije of the quotation. The Dutch infcrip
tion on flicks of fealing-wax would have been
as applicable.

>

" T. the Tourift was the hfft to fly I
frorn Paris on the profpeSi of the ttgpults of"
the \oth of Auguft, He is now writing a
Hiftory of the Bloody Murders which dif-
tinguifhed that day."
I fufpectthat the ingenious Genius who
wrote this knew he was miftaking as to
the former part pf this paragraph. He may
/ fay Trippift now.
I Should not have feen either of thefe, had
they not been pointed out to me by fome
of my " damned good-natured friends." I am
in hopes of feeing a number of very pretty
criticifms on the foregoing pages ; many
paffages were Written purpofely to catch
critics, as honey catches gnats ; if juft, they

( I31 )
Shall be attended to, Should there be another
edition; and if they are merely abfurd, they
Shall be collected, and faithfully prefented to
the gentle reader. I have told the truth,
and have not " fet down aught in malice,"

THE END,

*#* There are a few trifling typographical errors in the foregoing
Jheets, tuhich IJhallleaiie to the correclion of the rdader, as not one
of them affeSti thsfenfe.