YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1935 -Sk. Stories of Old Oregon BY GEORGE A. WAGGONER Salem, Oregon: statesman publishing co. 1905 COPYRIGHTED BY GEO. A. WAGGONER DECEMBER 29, 1904 TO THE PIONEERS OF'OREGON CONTENTS Pagb Oregon's* Pioneers 5 I. Stories of Old Oregon 7 II. A Test of Courage 23 III. Adventures in the Mines 57 IV. Adventures in the Mines 87 V. Adventures in the Mines 107 VI. Adventures in the Mines 127 VII. How Captain Dobbins Was Promoted 145 VIII. How Captain Dobbins Was Promoted 169 IX. A Legend of Wallowa Lake 191 CONTE N TS— CONTINUED . X. Ned Leach's Story 201 XI. Jack Hart's Encounter with Road Agents 223 XII. Was It Luck or Providence 243 XIII. Buckskin's Fight with the Wolves 261 XIV. A Chance Meeting of Old Friends 275 XV. Dandy Jim 281 (By courtesy of O. R. & N.) MT. HOOD, OREGON. Oregon's Pioneers. How shall a tale of the West be told? Who will write it in letters of gold? Where is the one whose magic pen Shall make its heroes live again? Heroes who made a desert sod, Touched as if by Aaron's rod, Blossom o'er its wide domain With flowers, fruit, and golden grain. Patriots who watch and ward did keep While all the nation was asleep; Till every hill and every vale Held touching, tragic, thrilling tale; And western soil, from flood to flood, Was enriched with patriot blood. Where their campfire smoke has curled, There our banner was unfurled; While their cabins rose in air, They were building house more fair. From Missouri's tawny flood, Where the painted savage stood, To Pacific's golden gate, They were building house of state. True of hand and heart and eye, They were building to the sky. Well they builded; 'neath their domes States and empires h»va +heir homes. Stories of Old Oregon. i. Of all the emigrations from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast, that of 1852 was the largest. Fifty thousand people crossed the Missouri river in that year, bound for Oregon and California. The discovery of gold in the latter, and marvellous stories of the mild climate and rich soil in the former, in duced these people to brave all dangers and go in search of the mythical Garden Spot of the World. Father, mother, brothers, sisters, seven in all, our family started from Winchester, Van Buren county, Iowa, to join that daring crowd in its long journey across the plains. On the 21st day of April we crossed the Mis souri at Council Bluffs, and with our teams took up our march across the desert. I was then 10 years of age, brother Thomas was four years older, and Byrd three years younger than I; sister Emily was a little tot of 5 years, and Frances a young woman of 18. We had two teams of four yoke of oxen each, 8 STORIES OF OLD OREGON a couple of horses, and two cows. I was too young to realize the dangers or responsibilities of our undertaking, and with my younger brother and sister, might be said to be the irresponsibles of the family. I had little to do but ride one of the horses and drive the cows. I should have admitted that there was one danger that I was most keenly alive to. I was mortally afraid of Indians. My father, a Ken- tuckian, had told so many hair-raising stories of the atrocious conduct of the red men on the borders of Kentucky, when he was a boy, that my only ideal of an Indian was that of a monster seeking for little boys with a tomahawk and scalping knife in his hand. We met our first Indians at Council Bluffs. To speak truthfully I cannot say that I met them at all, for I dived into a neighboring brush patch the moment I saw them coming. I did not even wait to announce their approach. I had a peep at them, however. They were a couple of young Pawnees, with red blankets around their shoulders and ver million paint on their faces. They presented to mother a paper addressed to whom it might con cern, stating that they were good Indians, and would probably be hungry, and that it was best to feed them to insure a safe passage through their country. Of course, they were fed. During the next few days STORIES OP OLD OREGON 9 we saw many of them, and I soon lost my fear of them and became greatly interested in their strange manners and odd costumes. We traveled about twenty miles a day, and found good camping places and abundant grass for our stock. We had to stand guard every night to prevent the stock being stolen, as there were white as well as red rascals on the plains. As the great American desert, over which we passed, has since that time been so thoroughly explored and widely known; has, in fact, become, states and territories with numerous thriving cities and profitable enter prises. I shall not attempt to mention the streams, valleys and mountains we crossed, or to give what would be at this time a tedious detailed account of our journey. Moreover, my memory holds no such recollection ; I can recall only such incidents as made the deepest impression on my mind at the time. Our route was well marked. We simply fol lowed the trail of pioneers more daring than we, who had crossed years before. It was a sight to see the long line of white covered wagons wending their way. For more than half the journey we were seldom out of sight of other trains, either before or behind us. Our way lay up the north side of the Platte river. We camped one day and crossed the river to see Fort Laramie, at the mouth of the Lara- 10 STORIES OP OLD OREGON mie river. The buildings were of adobe, and with those of Fort Hall, of like construction, were all the houses we saw until we reached the Cascades, on the Columbia river, a distance of nearly 2,000 miles. A day's journey from Laramie, we saw our first buffalo. During the forenoon, hunters had ridden off to the north to look for antelope. As we cor ralled the wagons for the night we saw a great dust storm approaching; a moment later there appeared in front of it the lowered heads of a herd of buffalo. We could hear shots and yells behind and knew the hunters were driving the animals into camp. So great was their fright that they did not see the camp until within a hundred yards of it; scarcely could they turn aside from the wagons, and one actually struck a wagon in passing. Women and children ran into the wagons, and the men grabbed their rifles and commenced a fusilade. Our teams became frightened, and a general stampede was with difficulty averted. Order was restored in a few moments and it was found that we had three fine buffalo, killed within a hundred yards of camp. We now had an abundance of meat and three fine robes. As we had no means of dressing them, we gave them to some Indians who came into camp. They were warriors and did not care to soil their STORIES OP OLD OREGON 11 hands, but sent some squaws for the robes the next morning. Throughout the whole length of the Platte river buffalo were seen in great numbers; sometimes for miles ahead they could be seen moving across our way. There were many stories of buffalo stamped ing whole trains, and we were always on the lookout for them. Once we were compelled to go into camp early in the forenoon and wait for them to pass on their way to the river for water; they were always on the gallop, and seemed to be in a great hurry in going or coming from their feeding grounds. An telope, or prong horns, were quite common; jack rabbits and sage hens were everywhere along the entire route. On the Platte river, cholera broke out among the emigrants, and was a most terrible scourge. Our train was severely afflicted with this most dreadful disease. It claimed twenty-two victims in one month's time; they were all buried in the desert without coffins. The delay thus caused brought our train among the hindmost ones, and was the cause of much privation and suffering. Disease for both man and beast seemed to be in the very air, and gave a forcible contradiction to the theory that such contagion is bred in thickly settled districts. There was constant fear of Indians, and several times the 12 STORIES OF OLD OREGON men were all under arms to repel what appeared like an attack. Once, on Snake river, we had a gen uine scare. Some Indians were in camp, and one young warrior took a fancy to my sister Frances, and asked father how many horses it would take to buy her. Father answered, with a laugh, that she was worth ten spotted ponies, as she was a very good cook and had long, beautiful hair, and more over, already had Indian moccasins on her feet. The young lover took the whole thing in earnest and went away. An hour later he returned with a band of spotted ponies, and, reinforced by a dozen comrades, demanded his bride. His wrath knew no bounds when told that father was only joking. He was a warrior of fame with a battle name a yard long, which meant Wolf in the Grass, and would stand no such foolishness; he had bought a wife and was going to have her, or his people would mur der us all. He gave us until sundown to decide whether we were going to treat him right or not. We soon found it was no trifling matter, as during the evening several hundred of the red rascals came into camp, and all declared we should complete the bargain and give up the girl, or we would all be murdered. We saw they only wanted an excuse for STORIES OP OLD OREGON 13 * attacking us, and all were alarmed, as the Indians greatly outnumbered us. So we begged for more time to consider the matter, and to prepare the bride's mind for the nuptials, which if we consented to do, should take place in our camp with great ceremony and much eating and dancing. This later proposal prevailed, and we were given until the next evening to get ready for the ceremony. Time was of much valu;: to us, for during the following day all trains that came in were told of our predicament, and willingly joined forces with us to repel the advances of sis ter's Indian lover. The women and children were all in tears most of the time, and the men looked pale and anxious. The Indians saw their mistake, and looked with great disfavor on the reinforcements we were receiving, each one of whom they tried to con vert to their side of the question. When the sun went to rest behind the low hills, we had fifty-six men under arms and prepared to fight. As about 100 warriors, all in war paint, rode up, they were told to stop outside the camp, while our little army stood with rifles in hand. The young chief rode forward, and in a loud voice, demanded his bride, on penalty of death of every man, woman and child in the camp. Father had been chafing sorely over his thoughtless joke, 14 STORIES OF OLD OREGON and had felt much more anxiety than he had ex pressed, though he had not believed the Indians would persist as they had. He was a Kentuckian, a large and powerful man, and would have driven the Indians from the camp before, had not there been many lives besides his at stake. As the In dian concluded his threat, father's Jacksonian blood flashed in his face; holding his rifle in his right hand, he sprang to the side of the young brave, and jerking him to the ground with his left hand he gave him a most unmerciful kicking and drubbing. Fifty-five rifles were leveled from behind the wagons, and as many deadly marksmen glanced along their barrels toward the band of Indians. But not an arrow flew, nor a shot was fired. The Indians, seeing that to persist in their demands was to bring on a battle in which their bows and arrows would be opposed to rifles, gave up the siege and we moved on, though for several days we were on the alert for an attack. When we came to a stream too deep to ford, and there were many of them, we unloaded the wagons and corked up the wagon beds and used them for boats to cross in, swimming the horses and cattle. Horse teams were constantly passing us, as they could travel thirty or forty miles a day. We met many men, traders and trappers, on horse- STORIES OF OLD OREGON 15 back, and these gave us an opportunity of com municating with friends, both before and behind us. Another means of informing those behind us of our progress, was to leave letters fastened to sticks, left sticking in the ground by the roadside. A very common practice was to write messages on buffalo skulls and shoulder blades, found all along in great numbers. The broad forehead, bleached white, afforded ample room for a good long letter, and many a cordial greeting and even tender billet doux was left on these novel ivory tablets. Alto gether, it seemed as if we had a system of telegraphy the whole route, and nothing of importance hap pened but what was known to all. It was wonder ful how news would flash along the whole line of travel, from one coast to the other. When we reached Burnt river, game had be come scarce, or was not to be found near the road, and many persons were out of provisions and were compelled to kill and eat oxen that had been work ing hard for months. This kind of food was all that many families had, and much sickness ensued. Slower and slower the oxen dragged their weary feet, and day by day some gave out and were left behind. Hundreds of wagons, carts, and carriages, were seen standing along the road, and the dead cattle lay about in such numbers that it was diffi- 16 STORIES OF OLD OREGON cult to find a camping place free from them. One by one our faithful oxen and cows, worn out, had to be left behind, until only one yoke remained; our horses had been stolen by the Snake Indians. We all had to walk, and when we came to a steep hill we put our shoulders to the wheels to help the poor oxen. In Powder River valley mother was taken sick with cholera ; there was no physician to be had, and after two days of suffering her loved ones gathered about her to take a last farewell. No pen can por tray that parting; no tones can utter the anguish felt as we buried her there in that desert land, and went on our way without her. But we must go or perish. When we reached Grand Ronde valley we were entirely without food of any kind. On the site now occupied by the city of La Grande were some thirty families camped, who were nearly as destitute as ourselves. What was our joy to learn, the evening we arrived, that some Oregonians with horse teams had just come over the Blue mountains to meet us and assist us through to the settlements. Some fat cattle were brought from the Willamette; one was slaughtered and we were furnished with plenty of beef, flour, and other necessary food, without money and without price. We were informed that the provisions were STORIES OF OLD OREGON 17 sent by the Portland merchants and people on hear ing that the last of the immigrants were suffering for food. I have never been able to learn the names of our benefactors, nor have I ever seen mention of the timely generosity in print; yet I know it was treasured in the hearts of those starving and dis heartened people ever afterward. Supplied with provisions, we moved on in better heart, but still very slowly. Our oxen, with sore feet and bodies worn to skin and bones, could make only a few miles a day. On the Umatilla river, one of our oxen gave entirely out and could go no further; we left the wagon and what few things we had, and, driving the remaining ox, with some bed clothes on his back, we moved on toward The Dalles. After weary days we reached the place on the 8th day of October. The first of the immigration had crossed the Cascades with their teams, but the snow now lay deep on the summit, and no one could cross it. Sev eral hundred were trying to get boats to go down the Columbia river, and each day some were start ing down in canoes which they bought from the Indians. Some made flatboats, and some were be ing taken in yawl boats. There were no permanent residents at The Dalles, but some soldiers were building a log fort there. We secured two large In dian canoes, fastened them about six feet apart, laid 18 STORIES OF OLD OREGON a floor of boards across them, and with some others we paddled out on the great Columbia with our novel craft. What a bliss it was to move along without the pain of walking on sore feet. The elder members of our party seemed hope ful ; the deep, steady current of the great river that bore us along told them of a great inland empire to the north, while the warm breeze that fanned our faces spoke of sunlit lands and seas to the south. When we reached the Cascades, we disembarked and walked around the falls, a distance of four or five miles; we then secured a fisherman's boat and went on down. About the 1st of November we landed a mile below the village of Portland, near where the railroad depot now stands. Two hundred destitute emigrants were camped there on the sand. The day after our arrival, the drays, trucks, wagons, carriages, and vehicles of all kinds, were sent down to bring the emigrants into town. All were moved, not one was left behind, together with all possessions. We were taken to houses to shelter us from the rain. Many went, I think, to a large building once used as a hotel, and was, if my memory serves me right, called the Columbia house. We were furnished with clothing, provisions, and firewood; physicians came to care for the sick, and not a dollar was asked, or paid, for all this. The STORIES OF OLD OREGON 19 same hands that had reached out to us when starv ing beyond the mountains, now loaded us with com forts and welcomed us to the new land. No one not situated as we were could imagine what a blessing such kindness was to us, and how it caused us from the first to love our new home. Who were the principal actors in this silent drama of frontier life in Oregon we never knew. Grateful, we made inquiry without avail. The pioneers of the great Northwest city did not allow their alms to be known of men. I know not how many yet survive, who left with us that rain-soaked beach on that bleak, November day, and many of our good Samari tans must have passed to their reward. But even at this late date I want it known that in that homeless crowd of sufferers there was one motherless boy into whose heart those acts of kindness sank deep; and in all the years that have passed he has loved the city of Portland, not because it has since grown into a great metropolis, commanding respect for its wealth and beauty, but for those acts of kindness so long ago, and for the gratitude and love kindled by them, which have warmed his own heart through life. I remember that the streets of Portland were very muddy, and that a little way back from the river, probably on Third street, the great stumps 20 STORIES OF OLD OREGON were still in the ground; a little farther back, the forest of fir hemmed the village in. A few days after our arrival Colonel Chapman's family offered a temporary home to my two sisters, and father and we boys started up the valley. We found a man who set us across the Willamette river in a canoe; there was a ferry in use, but the boat had met with an accident and could not run. Through the heavy timber along a little, nar row, muddy road, we made our way on foot to Ore gon City, a little town under the hill, older still than Portland, and claiming to be the principal city of Oregon. Salem was next, only a few houses and a county seat. So much water was encountered in the valley that we took to the hills, and lather at last located a donation claim on the foothills above Brownsville, in Linn county, a beautiful place of gently rolling, grassy lands, a great mountain peak above, and the broad, beautiful valley in full view below. Everywhere on our tramp from Portland we met the same kindly welcome which had greeted us there, and although we were not entirely with out money, not a cent would anyone take from us on the whole journey. Our neighbors, what few we had, had been several years in the valley, and were equally kind, generous, and united in efforts to assist us to get a STORIES OF OLD OGEGON 21 :start in life again. There was plenty of work to do, and at good prices, and so we soon felt quite comfortable, had a little farm under cultivation, and were raising some cattle and horses. Three years of this quiet life, and the Indian wars of 1855 and 1856 broke out, both north and south of us. Many settlers and their families were murdered, and volunteers were called for by the territorial gov ernment. I was very anxious to go, for I had already learned to shoot a rifle with the best, but father would not hear of it, and so I had to work on the farm while thrilling news of battles was brought by every mail. Many of our neighbors went to fight the Rogue river Indians in Southern Oregon. Some •of them never returned. The Indians were well armed, and made a determined fight with Old John, George Limp and Tyee Sam as leaders. Many were the thrilling stories heard of the heroic defense made by some of the settlers when the Indians first broke out. One woman, Mrs. Harris, and her 12-year-old ¦daughter, after the father and husband was shot ¦down in his door, defended the house for thirty-six hours, until they were rescued. After Harris was shot he lived long enough to tell his wife how to load the rifle. The cabin had loop holes, and Mrs. 22 STORIES OF OLD OREGON Harris, with the rifle, guarded one side of the house- while the daughter, with a six-shooter, defended the other. The little girl's arm was soon broken by a shot, and with her left arm hanging at her side, she kept her watch and fired. The Rogue river, or Digger Indians, as we called them, were driven from the place and finally defeated and taken to the Grand Ronde reservation, and peace was restored. Of all the settlers of Ore gon, those of the southern portion have suffered most from Indians. The Diggers were always un friendly and treacherous, and murdered the whites whenever an opportunity offered. A friend, who lived on Coquille river, gave me the following ac count of their hostility and treachery before the war broke out, and of the dangers encountered by two settlers, which may well be called a test of courage: A Test of Courage. ii. The sun had gone down behind the fir-topped hills on a November evening early in the '50s, and the elements were gathering their forces about the headwaters of the Coquille river for a stormy night as a pioneer, carrying a deer on his back, reached his lonely cabin. Only half an hour before he had gone out in search of game. His return after so short an absence would indicate what was true, that Southern Oregon was at that time a hunter's paradise. This man's name was Williams. About a year before our story opens he had built his cabin and commenced his solitary life full ten miles from his nearest neighbor. Those who knew him called him Captain Williams. Whether this was a complimentary title received somewhere in the Southern states in accordance with a custom among those hospitable Southerners, or whether he had been baptized "Captain" in some battle with the natives of Oregon, was not known. As he was hanging his burden on one of the 24 STORIES OF OLD OREGON logs which had been left protruding from the corner of the cabin for such purposes, he was surprised to see approaching an Indian, one of the Digger tribe, known throughout the Northwest as the most treach erous and cunning of all the Indian bands. Instantly the pioneer's rifle was brought into a position for ready use. "Nika close tilicum, nika ticky mitilite copa myka house uckok polakalee hiuh snash chako." "All right," said Williams, answering in the Digger's own language. "It is going to be a bad night. You can come in if you are a friend; my house is always open to my friends." It was surprising that this Indian sought shel ter even from a storm in a white man's dwelling. There had been bad blood between the two races for some time and 'they generally communicated with each other with the rifle and bow and arrow. If the Indians were successful the transaction was closed with the tomahawk and scalping knife; if not, they lay where they fell. Williams treated the Indian as if he believed his professions of friendship were sincere, but watched every move he made. After supper and the in evitable smoke was over, the Indian showed some gold nuggets, which he said he found on the Sixes river, about sixty miles from there, and wanted A TEST OF COURAGE 25 Williams to bring some white men down to the mines, promising to show where the gold was found and treat them as friends. The next morning, after the Indian, with many professions of friendship, had gone, Williams sat thinking about his strange visitor. If there had been no other reason to doubt him his looks were sufficient to condemn him, for villian was written all over him, from head to heel. His face was disfigured by a deep scar across his right cheek, as though a bullet had plowed a furrow there, and his eyes shone with that peculiar stealthy expression so disagreeable in man or beast. While Williams believed "Scar Face," as he afterwards called him, was laying a trap for him, he also believed there was gold to be found on the Sixes river, and had for some time been thinking of going there to prospect. Indian or no Indian, treachery or not, he resolved if he could find a com panion to take the chances with him to go and see. There was one man whom he preferred above all others for such a journey — Jake Hedden. To him he went and told what he wanted. "I guess I'm the man you'r lookin' fur. I'm jist dyin' fur a little outdoor air. These hills are too short fur me. I can't git a good breath among 'em. I want to get where mountains has some size to 'em. If we don't find any gold maybe we'll git a shot at 26 STORIES OF OLD OREGON a Digger. I've been nearly dead for an Injin fight ever since the sneakin' devils killed brother Jim. I wouldn't felt so cussed mean about it if they had give Jim a show, but they never showed thar heads until he passed along the trail, and then shot him in the back; filled him full of arrers. We wus out huntin' an' he wus only a little way from camp. I heard him whistlin' jist before he was shot. Poor Jim! He wus the kindest-hearted boy that ever lived. He wus too good for an Indian fighter, he wus always whistlin'. He called me when they shot him. I never thought of Indians. I knowed Jim had left his gun in camp and thought he had jumped a grizzly. When I got there, Jim was layin' in the trail with six arrers through him and a dozen Diggers was trying to scalp him; but he wus dyin' with his knife in his hand and they were afraid to come near him. I brung Jim's gun and pistol and was right on 'em when they seed me. I didn't see the In j ins neither, I wus runnin' so fast. How they all cum to miss me I can't tell. I expect my being so big scared 'em. But I didn't miss, run nin' or standin', I never missed a shot. They got behind trees, but they couldn't shoot without showin' tharselves. They kept runnin' and I followed up as long as I could see any. When I got back, Jim wus dead. He hadn't tried to pull any arrers out, but A TEST OF COURAGE 27 he scratched out 'Good-by, Jake,' with the point of his knife on the ground in the trail before he died. Well, I couldn't do nothin'. You know, I had killed ten Diggers, but all the Diggers that ever wus born wouldn't have paid me for Jim. I packed him to camp. He wus a little fellow, and I am a purty strong man, but that wus the heaviest load I ever carried. I brought Jim out here with me and prom ised ma to take care of him and thought I wus doin' it till he was killed. I haven't writ home yet. I jist can't tell 'em Jim's dead. Yes, I can go with you down on the Sixes. The only thing that bothers me is my wife. She don't like fur me to go among the In j ins, but I can fix her all right. She can stay with her pap and I've got lots of ammunition and grub. Don't say anything to her about Injins; jist talk about prospectin' for gold, and I don't think she will kick." After the matter had been talked over with Mrs. Hedden she did not object to her husband going prospecting, and cheerfully made preparations for his journey. The day they started she followed Captain Williams down to the spring, where he had gone for some water, and said: "I want to talk about Jake. I want him to go because he don't want to stay poor when pap is well off. He wants me to have as much as I always did. 28 STORIES OF OLD OREGON Pap didn't want me to have him, you know. I don't think he had anything agin him but his bein' so big. Pap don't like anything bigger than he is. But Jake beat him at last. I believe I'll tell you about it. "He always said I shouldn't have Jake, until one day, just before we got married, one of the cows fell in the well. Pap was runnin' round, huntin' ropes and poles to git her out. It was old Brin, and the children was all cryin'. Jist then Jake come up. He was coming up to see me. He had on his biled shirt and looked awful nice. He took old Brin by the horns and pulled her out. Pap never said a word agin him after that. But that ain't what I wanted to tell you. I want you to try to keep out of trouble with the Injins. You don't know Jake as well as I do. He's crazy to fight 'em ever since his brother was killed. He has been at me to go to pap's and let him go down on the coast to kill In jins. If it wasn't for me and our boy he would do nothin' but hunt Diggers all his life. Now, don't. let Jake get into a fight if you can help it. If the Injins do come on you Jake will stay with you. He will never run. If you get hurt he will stay and fight for you as long as he lives. He will never back down from anything. "Now, I want you to promise me to stand by Jake, as I tell you he will stand by you. If he gets. A TEST OP COURAGE 29 hurt I want you to promise not to leave him. Say you will stick to him and I will feel better while you are gone." Williams saw tears gathering in her eyes, and taking her hand, said: "Mrs. Hedden, all you say of Jake is true, and I solemnly promise to stand by him. We will either come home together or both stay in the mountains. If the Diggers get him they will get me. But don't be uneasy, the Diggers fight mostly with bows and arrows and are careful about coming near men who carry rifles and Colt's revolvers." "Good-bye, Mary," said Jake, after .giving his wife a hearty kiss. "Pap will be down after you this evenin'. Take good care of yourself an' the boy. I'm goin' to bring him some nuggets for him to play with when I git back." Mounted on stout ponies and leading a pack horse, the prospectors started for Sixes river. This is a short, rapid stream which takes its rise in the coast mountains and empties into the ocean six miles north of Port Orford. It runs through a wild jungle of mountain peaks, at whose feet it has dug chasms as deep, dark and dreadful as any found on the coast. This wild region was known to be the strong hold of the Indians and had never been explored by white men. Only such views were had as could 30 , STORIES OF OLD OREGON be obtained from distant mountain tops. These daring hunters were going into a trap which they knew had been deliberately set for them, among hundreds of hostile Indians. Going, too, with the full belief that their skill in mountain craft, marks manship and superior arms would enable them to defeat anything they might meet. One of them had no motive of hostility toward the Indians, the other no more than might be engendered on the frontier at any time in the breast of one who had suffered the loss which he had. From the standpoint of a higher civilization, sur rounded by different circumstances and conditions, it might appear that they were reckless ; that for some cause they were weary of life, and, knowing it to be worthless to them, sought to throw it away in some encounter. On the contrary, they were well bal anced, cheerful men, who had much to hope from the development of the country in which they had made their homes. They were in a land of plenty, and Hedden had a handsome wife and child. They were simply pioneers, performing an act of courage and self-reliance, similar to those performed by their ancestors ever since the landing of the pilgrims in America. The genuine hardihood and true nobility of the American pioneer, the advance guard of our civilization, has never been fully understood and A TEST OF COURAGE 31 recognized and will not be for many years to come. All heroism has its critics. The critic has his day, but the hero survives him. The Anglo-Saxon uses the instruments of his progress roughly and they may suffer neglect, but in the fullness of time he will gather them to be held as precious relics in his early struggles. In pursuance of a great law of nature, civiization invades the realm of the savage. There is, there can be no mingling. The Chris tian can no more leap the chasm of a thousand years than the savage. It is a war of extermina tion. Disciples of Fenimore Cooper and other sen timentalists, who have shrunk from the dangers of this contest and who have never encountered a more formidable foe than one who has wielded a quill in opposition to their mild emotions, may deplore the fate of the savage and censure his treatment at the hands of the pioneer, but science, culture and re ligion, those grand aggressors in their line, cannot long refrain from giving honor to those who stood between them and destruction at the hands of the savage foes. The heroic pioneer will live in history down to the remotest changes of time, while his traducer will be forgotten before the hero he de nounced has reached the zenith of his fame. The first day's journey was a short one and our prospectors camped without meeting with any ad- 32 STORIES OF OLD OREGON ventures. The stream beside their camp was full of mountain trout and the speckled beauties were enjoyed with the keen relish of youthful appetites. The second day's travel was over mountains so rugged that even their hardy ponies were taxed to their fullest strength. As the sun was going down, and our hunters were looking about for a suitable place to camp, they came to the crossing of a small stream, in the banks of which was worn by game, deep cuts reaching down to the water on either side. Brush and overhanging boughs prevented their see ing the streams until they were both in the cut and Williams had reached the water. As they glanced across, there in the shallow water, not twenty feet from them, stood an old grizzly and her two cubs. The surprise was mutual and the conflict inevitable. Neither party could safely retreat. Had Fenimore Cooper been in Williams' place the world would probably have never read some of his later stories. But Williams' gun went to his face like a flash and a bullet was planted square between the threatening eyes. It was a fatal shot and no more was needed. The cubs fell easy victims. It was fortunate that Williams fired so quickly and with such accurate aim. Had his ball struck an inch from the center it would have glanced harmlessly from the monster's head and this story would have been cut short here. A TEST OP COURAGE 33 Those who are unacquainted with the ferocious nature of the grizzly bear can form no idea of the danger the hunters were in. Like all other wild animals, the grizzly is afraid of man and will gen erally shun an encounter with him unless surprised by a sudden meeting, or when the mother is with her young, in which case she never asks nor gives any quarter. The enormous size and strength of the grizzly render him, to those who know him, the most dreaded of all the wild beasts. The world-re nowned African lion, whose terrible roar the school- books tell us shakes whole forests, does not compare with him, in either size or strength. Neither does he display the courage or vitality of the grizzly. A full grown one weighs about 2,000 pounds, the skin on his neck and shoulders is an inch thick and he has been known to pursue and kill a hunter after two rifle balls had pierced his heart. The age in which man delights to see wild beasts fight has passed, but to correct classical stories, and for the purpose of taking the starch out of some of the traditions of the old world, it would be well if an intercontinental meeting were arranged between his majesty, the king of the jungles, and the lord of the Sierras. Any man who ever saw a full grown grizzly, or even where one had placed his foot in the mud, 34 STORIES OF OLD OREGON would cheerfully risk a purse on his mountain lord ship. Had young Sampson encountered a grizzly bear instead of a lion, Delila would have been spared the shame of the betrayal of her husband, and the Philistines would have escaped a humiliating defeat with an ignoble weapon. Camp was made near where the grizzlys fell. The old bear's woolly skin softened the hunters' couch, the cubs furnished excellent steaks and roasts, while the ponies found abundant grass on the creek flats. Hedden was an enormous eater. They had traveled from daybreak until dark with out food and he did the young bears justice. Will iams used to laughingly declare Hedden devoured one of the small bears before he went to rest on the mother's skin. Shortly after sunrise on the following morning they started, after christening their camping place, which, in memory of their encounter, was called Bear Flat. This name it retains to this day. On the fourth day from home they came to Sixes river and selected a favorable looking place to pros pect. On sinking the first hole they found gold sufficient to encourage them to prepare to thoroughly examine the river bed and adjacent gulches for dig gings. The first thing to do was to secure their camp against attack from Indians. They selected a A TEST OF COURAGE 35 little mound, from which emerged a spring, and then, with the aid of loose rock which was lying handy, they built a wall completely around it, leav ing loopholes at convenient places. With bark from cedar trees they made a good shelter from rain and soon were quite comfortably camped. They con cluded to build a small wing dam in the river in order to work the bedrock. They had been working at this dam about ten days when they discovered moccasin tracks in the river bottom near their camp. An investigation showed there had been about twenty Indians prowling around their little camp the night before. After this, only one worked while the other stood guard. One morning, as they were leaving camp, the Indians, who had secreted them selves nearby, gave them a shower of arrows, luckily none of which took effect. With a bound, our pros pectors were within their little fortification prepar ing for defense. It was some time before an Indian was seen. Occasionally an arrow would whiz over head, but in vain Hedden and Williams tried to get a shot at the skulking Diggers. Towards evening they grew bolder and sent their arrows showering about the fort, sometimes falling within the en closure. "Look out," said Williams, "those arrows are poisoned; don't get hit by one." The Diggers, finding the boys did not fire, and 36 STORIES OP OLD OREGON knowing there were but two of them, rose from their hiding places and charged upon them. Now was their time, and rifle and pistol, for the first time, awoke the echoes among the mountain peaks which, rolling the startling sounds from one to an other, proclaimed the doom of the savage. Not a shot missed its mark. Without daring to come over the wall the Diggers turned and ran to cover, leav ing eight or ten of their number where they fell. "The cowardly skunks can't stand fire," yelled Hedden. "I've a notion to follow 'em." "Never," said Williams. "It would be certain death. Besides we have got some business here. I saw one Digger squat behind our wall. He didn't run with the rest. He's got some grit in him, and we must be careful how we handle him. You keep a lookout for the others and I will climb over and see what he is doing." Williams got over the wall on the opposite side of the Digger and commenced crawling around to ward him, keeping his pistol ready for instant use. The Digger heard him coming and crawled around the other way. Hedden could get a glimpse of them as they passed around. "Must I come and help you?" he asked. "No; keep inside, but pass around behind him A TEST OP COURAGE 37 and make a little noise so he will think I am still after him." Jake did as he was told. The Digger, thinking he was still pursued, crawled on. He never knew the deception practiced upon him. Williams' pistol ended his career while he still thought his foe was behind him. Williams recognized him at once as the Indian who had come to his cabin and invited him to come to hunt for gold on Sixes river. To his belt was fastened a small buckskin purse, in which were found the identical nuggets shown to Captain Williams. "Here, Jake, take these to your boy; you may not be able to find any yourself." About sundown, great numbers of Indians were seen gathering, but they kept at a distance until it began to grow dark, when they built fires, en circling the fort about 300 yards distance. When Williams saw this he was thoughtful for awhile, and then said : "I'll tell you what, Jake, I don't like the looks of that. There are not less than 200 Indians around us. As soon as it gets dark they will leave a few around the fires for us to look at, the rest will crawl close to us, then they will raise a whoop and pile 38 STORIES OF OLD OREGON right over that wall. They intend to do it, Jake, as sure as you are born." ? long wandering. I soon overtook Thomas, and we traveled that day among the new settlements along the upper Cali- pooia and Santiam, the sole improvements in many places being a log cabin not even surrounded by a fence. One of our packhorses, an old bobtailed veteran of the Cayuse war, soon became tired; in fact he was tired when we first started, and I turned him loose and drove him. He was a curiosity worth the study of a philosopher. He had one habit which would have puzzled Socrates himself. The moment he espied a cabin he would leave the road and start. A SCENE ON THE SANTIAM ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 61 for it on the run; of course I would try to overtake him, but old as he was, on such an occasion he was never outrun. On reaching the cabin and finding me in pursuit, he would go around it at a furious rate, greatly alarming the inmates, who, having no windows to their cabins, could not see us coming and were wholly unprepared for such an onset. One poor woman, on being attacked in this man ner, left her two children in the door and ran out in the yard. As Bob and I came tearing around the house, she was cut off from her children and nearly frightened to death. Suddenly checking my horse, I commenced to explain, when Bob, who no. doubt thinking he was still pursued, came charging: around, and in his fright at meeting us, very nearly- trampled upon the now speechless woman. She re covered herself in a moment and darted for thei door. As she gathered a child under each arm andi closed the door with her foot, I heard her ejaculate,. "0, my God!" Thomas secured Bob, and a moment, later I opened the door, but the violent sobbing of the three prevented their hearing my apology, and: we went on feeling very much annoyed by the oc currence. We stopped at night with a settler in the Sweet Home valley. We made his acquaintance by chas ing Bob a couple of times around his house; and. 62 STORIES OP OLD OREGON his timely appearance, armed with a poker, alone prevented Bob from being the first of our company to claim a night's shelter within the dwelling. We cannot understand the cogitations of a horse, but I suppose that Bob had once been fed and sheltered, and that dim visions of sweet oats and ambrosial hay and a warm stall came into his head whenever he saw a house. Poor old Bob ! His bones have long since bleached on the plains near White Pine, but I have not forgotten him nor his effectual but indirect way of benefiting mankind. I believe he has cured several chronic grumblers by showing them the funny side of things, and no one ever saw one of his circular performances without laughing heartily every time he thought of him and his peristent efforts to escape labor and find a stable. At supper, aniong other things, we had what I feel assured but few mortals have ever tasted — fern pie. It was made of the tender and nutritious stalks of young fern, and was very nice. Thomas was surprised, but said the Lord was very good and wise, and had undoubtedly clothed the hills and valleys with the delicious plant in order that the coming generation might be supplied with food and never be without a supply of good pie. That night he wrote a letter to his wife, telling her of our discovery, and saying he believed old Bob ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 63 to have been an humble instrument in the hand of Divine Providence, to direct us to that house, where by we learned the value of the most plentiful plant in the universe. He directed her to experiment with it as food, in different forms, and said he felt re lieved of all further anxiety about her and the chil dren, and should go forward with a lighter heart. I have mentioned these pies with some reluctance, for we got into serious trouble about them. I have had more than one hard fight to establish my verac ity, and Thomas has frequently resorted to prayer to soothe his wounded feeling on being called a liar ; and all because we said we had eaten fern pies. How reluctant the world is to believe the truth ! I believe these pies are now extinct and their making a lost art, unless, happily, a recipe has been preserved among the early settlers of Sweet Home valley. From this place we started directly into the moun tains, following the trail of a party several days ahead and bound for the same destination as our selves. It soon became evident that they were nov ices in mountain travel, or lunatics, for they wound around and went back and forth on the head waters of the Santiam until we lost all patience, as in fol lowing them we often found, after traveling half a day, that we had made but a few hundred yards' progress toward the summit. Once we went around 64 STORIES OF OLD OREGON a small timbered butte four times. The first time around I told Thomas I believed we were traveling in a circle, the second I insisted, and the third I laid my old gun on a log, declaring I would leave it there unless we came that way again. Thomas lectured me all the way around the circle about leaving my gun, and about my foolishness in not placing con fidence in him who was so much older than myself, and who had traveled in the mountains all his life without ever losing the points of the compass. He was going on in this strain when I came to the gun ; I pretended not to see it, rode past, and let Thomas find it. There was no disputing this evidence, and he acknowledged himself in error. His defeat was only temporary, however, for we had gone but a couple of miles when we came to a large fir tree, recently blown down, when he said if we had not been providentially hindered we should probably now be buried beneath its mighty weight. We were now traveling without a trail and fol lowing up the ridges towards the summit of the mountain, and soon came to deep snow. It was very hard, and we moved along at a lively gait, leaving but little trail behind. We camped at night upon the snow, fed our horses some flour, and made our beds of fir boughs. Our campfire lit up the sur rounding objects, and when the moon rose over the ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 65 snow-clad peaks, they shone up grandly magnificent. On the surface the snow had lost its ordinary ap pearance, the constant freezing and thawing having crystalized it into beautiful forms the size of peas, and clear as ice; and the roots of the dark old fir trees were girdled that night in the moonlight with pearls which, for beauty of lustre and finish, were equal to any worn by the fabled monarchs of old. The next day, as we ascended the mountain, the snow grew deeper, sometimes to ten or twelve feet deep, and once we crossed a canyon on a natural bridge of snow which had drifted in by the winds to a depth of over one hundred feet. The warmer vapors arising from the small stream had thawed it half way up, leaving a splendid arch, settled and condensed by its own weight until an army might have passed over it with perfect safety. The upper side of the bridge lay against the side of a rocky bluff and had no opening underneath, but turning down after crossing, we had a splendid view of the lower side, which showed what a master mason Nature is when she tries her hand, and I wondered why she so carefully hides her grandest works from man, that they are only found after long toil or accident, and are never seen by the multitude. We were nearing the summit, and strange to tell, sud denly came into a beautiful little valley of perhaps 66 STORIES OF OLD OREGON forty acres, green with grass, dotted with flowers, and surrounded on all sides with snow. It may have been that the rays of the sun, reflected from the sur rounding snow peaks, had centered upon this little mountain glen and warned the pearls spoken of be fore, to take their way heavenward to escape the tread of bear and deer, for we found both on this green spot; and before our tired horses were un saddled the mountain tops had echoed to the crack of my rifle, and within half an hour we were at supper, with venison steak occupying a prominent place on our frugal green-sward board. Much refreshed, we started on the following morning at sunrise from our delightful camp. Go ing eastward we soon passed the summit and com menced to descend. The snow was melting fast on the eastern slope, and many streams were swol len, offering formidable barriers to our progress, but we had placed the hoary headed mountain be neath our feet, and were not to be frightened by the perspiration streaming from his brow. On we went, sliding, wading, swimming, for a weary day. Emerging from the snow somewhere near where the wagon road now leaves the mountain, we were glad to camp on dry ground and see our horses knee deep in the finest of grass. At this place we found an old Indian trail leading south, and followed it ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 67 through some of the finest pine timber I ever saw. It stands on nearly level land, so thick as to exclude underbrush for miles in extent, and will, when a railroad shall have reached it, be the largest and most profitable lumber camp on this coast. As pine is not so thickly branched as fir, the sun is not ex cluded from these groves, and grass covers the ground. May the time speedily come when these mighty trees will echo the sound of the logger's axe, and the iron horse shall pant upon the mountain side, richly freighted with the products of this plain. We camped at night upon a small stream which, we judged, emptied into the Deschutes. It was a beautiful evening, and after we had unsaddled our horses, Thomas proposed to have prayers. We knelt down, and he gave thanks for our safe passage through so many dangers, and was begging for Di vine guidance in our future travels, when the loud report of a rifle rang through the camp. Thomas fell upon his face, and with one bound I was within the bushes and underneath the bank of the little creek. Peeping out, I saw Thomas still flat upon the ground, but not dead, for he was crawling towards me. As soon as he reached me I asked him where he was hit. He said in the face. I could see no mark. His eyes were tightly closed, having been filled with sand and dirt, and he was spitting dirt 68 STORIES OF OLD OREGON from his throat and mouth, but no blood anywhere ; he was unhurt. We crouched down close, and tried to think what we should do. We knew that we had been fired upon by Indians. They could have been but a few rods away, but neither of us had seen them. The horses had stampeded at the first shot, and we were left alive, it is true, but in a very dan gerous situation. As soon as Thomas could get his eyes open, I told him to get the gun and bullets. He declined, and told me to put my trust in heaven. I did so, but glanced again in the direction of my gun. I was beginning to recover myself and to think of self- defense, when my blood was frozen by seeing a fire start up in the grass a few feet beyond our camp. Instantly I saw that we were to be roasted alive, as the grass would undoubtedly be fired all around us by the red devils, whom we could not even see. l nomas was praying. A frantic desire to live made me desperate; I would not die within reach of my gun without firing a shot. I sprang above the bank, seized my gun and shot pouch, and was again behind the breastworks. An idea struck me. I placed my mouth over the muzzle of the gun, when Thomas, mistaking my intentions, begged me not to leave him alone. I blew down the barrel; it was empty. I ran out and extinguished the fire, which had already ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 69 reached our blankets, and told Thomas to come out and be a man; he only prayed the louder. Then I told him that we had been fired upon by our own gun. He raised his head, hesitated, started to come, then stepped back and wanted to know who set the grass on fire. I said it must have been a flash of the powder. When we had knelt down to pray, the horses were feeding slowly away from where they had been turned loose. Old Bob had a long rope tied to his neck; he must have dragged it across the hammer of the gun in such a manner as to discharge it, and, as it was lying upon some blankets, with the muzzle near the dry grass, the flash kindled the fire which gave me the second alarm. The reader may imagine our joy on thus being delivered from torture, for it was deliverance as true as any which ever came to a beleaguered city. The worst torture is that of the mind, and we had endured dreadful fears and most frightful fancies. It is strange what thoughts will pervade one's mind at such a time. While trying to keep my head below the bank to avoid a bullet, I actually fancied my friends crying over the newspaper account of my horrible death. I soon recovered my former spirits; not so with Thomas. In fact I do not believe he ever fully 70 STORIES OF OLD OREGON forgot his dreadful scare. He seemed to only half believe that it was a fals£ alarm, and kept casting his eyes cautiously around, as though expecting a murderous attack at any moment. His apprehen sions were painful to behold. He would never take an open direct route to any point he wished to go to, if he could reach it by a circuitous or concealed one. The,next morning he went for the horses while I prepared breakfast. He soon returned and de clared that the horses had been stolen; he had fol lowed them about a mile, until he was convinced that they were in the hands of the Indians — two squaws and a buck. Believing that he mistook the signs, I started out to reconnoiter. I do not wish it to be understood that I was not afraid; on the contrary, I was alert to the slightest sound, a falling twig or the flit of a bird's wing made my heart stand still and my hand nervously clutch my gun. What if Thomas were correct ! The Indians might await my coming in some secluded spot, and then they would not allow me the privilege of unconditional sur render. I must fight. Squaws do not carry guns. I wondered if they were young and pretty, and thought that if the buck was disposed of I might capture them without blood shed. I concluded to shoot the old fellow just as he was raising his tomahawk, and then strike an atti- ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 71 tude before his daughters. In this pleasant train of thought I raised my eyes from the ground to con front the maidens, and saw our stolen ponies. They were soon in camp, and packing up, we set out on our journey. We crossed the Deschutes river some distance below the Prineville road. After traveling several miles down stream we recrossed, and fol lowing a good trail, soon came to the Warm Springs reservation. As usual with these curiosities of art, it was beautifully situated and had the requisite number of government employes, spotted horses, Indians, etc. Why is it that there is always a lot of Indians about a reservation? The blighting influence of their indolent lives and filthy habits is felt in every reservation in the United States, and it is all wrong. They should go away and give the agents an oppor tunity to cultivate their natural taste for ease. If the government must have reservations, let it see that men whose political services have entitled them to be placed on them are not annoyed by a lot of dirty, thieving Indians. This is a fine field for re form. Let us purge these sanctuaries of innocence from the polluting tread of the Indian. Let the jabber of the squaw no more be heard about the suttler's store. This accomplished, the agents might become a credit to their race, and in the lapse of 72 STORIES OF OLD OREGON time might be gathered together and settled in the Yellowstone Park. This would not prove expensive, and the nation would remunerate itself by exhibit ing them as natural curiosities. At this place, in addition to those already men tioned, we found quite a number of Webfeet, who had crossed the mountain before us, waiting for the Deschutes to fall before attempting to cross. We soon organized by electing a captain, and on the second day after our arrival, procuring an Indian guide, we crossed the swollen river in canoes, swim ming our horses, and started for the Malheur river, the place where tradition says tons of gold were found by some lost emigrants in an early day, but who had reached the settlement half starved, and reported that one could easily pick up a bucketful of gold in a few minutes. Hence the name of Blue Bucket mines, which has been discussed in every miner's cabin from California to the Rocky moun tains. We paid our guide $150 for his services, and he rode at the head of our column of men with all the pride of a soldier for two days, when a change seemed to come over the spirit of his dream, and see ing only days of fatigue and discomfort in front, and days of ease and comfort behind, he, on the third morning out, turned his horse and rode swiftly ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 73 toward the agency. We saw his game instantly and gave pursuit, but our horses were jaded with cross ing the mountain, and he had no doubt selected the best horse on the reservation, and we were unable to catch him. Several shots were fired at his noble form, but he only went the faster, and after a great amount of swearing we realized that we had lost an Indian and felt correspondingly sad. We had rea son, too, for he was paid in advance. "Lo, the poor Indian" — did anyone ever know him to fulfill a trust when it was not his selfish interest to do so? Being thus left alone, we concluded to abandon the route to the Blue Bucket diggings, and go to Oro Fino. Turning to the left, after a day's travel, we came to an old emigrant road, near the crossing of the John Day. From there we traveled over plains and low rolling hills, whose rich soil fur nished everywhere the most luxuriant grass, and has since burdened the waters of the mighty Co lumbia with its grain-laden vessels, and is today de manding in thunder tones the more perfect opening of its outlet to the sea. We were traveling up this grand river, whose bosom bore only the Indian canoe with its worthless freight, through an em pire where a sod was never turned and solitude held sway, broken only by the howl of the coyote or the neigh of the worthless Indian pony. Who can view 74 STORIES OF OLD OREGON the changes which have since taken place in the Co lumbia basin, and sigh for the days that are gone? Then I could have carried its exports in my saddle bags; now corporations, with millions invested, are wrestling with each other for the carrying of its mighty products. Industry invades the realms of idleness, the lazy Indian leaves the land, where for centuries he has been a beast, and our army marches on. Its weapons were moulded by reason and ex perience, and its discipline is Nature's laws. The iron horse announces its advance, and ocean palaces bear its equipments. Forests, trembling, fall to the ground and come from the mountain tops to build its barracks, and the soil, upturned by its magic touch, furnishes bread to the world. Who can doubt it must conquer the universe? We traveled along the old emigrant road to the Umatilla river. Here we found another one of those curses of civilization, an Indian reservation. Here again, the. government had gathered the neigh boring tribes on the finest agricultural land in the region, and was aiding them in their resolve to die rather than work. Heroic Indian ! I saw him lying in the shade of the thorn bush (the only fruit tree of his home), while his wife tended his horse, dug potatoes, or carried wood to cook his scanty meal. He knew us to be the picket guard of the army that (By courtesy of O. R. &N.) SCENE ON THE O. R. & N. ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 75 would destroy him, and was not annoyed. He saw our superior food, clothing, horses, and equipments, and was not stimulated to action. He despised to purchase them, for their price was labor. If a horse excited his admiration, visions of himself crawling on a dark night to steal it floated through his lazy brain. If he wanted our gun, he meditated a midnight approach and a murderous blow. But our army surrounds him, and he must go. He has too long cumbered the earth, to the exclusion of labor and science. His body contains elements that should go back to the soil to furnish food for civ ilized man. He will only live in history, and it is hoped, will not seriously burden that. Thirty miles from Umatilla we came to Walla Walla fort and town. At the fort, the intellects of a few companies of soldiers were being dwarfed, and the men rendered unfit for any noble battle in life, for the purpose of preventing a few squaws from trading dried salmon for whisky. This traffic intercepted, offers the soldier better facilities for getting drunk than he could find in any other depart ment of life. The town, a small village, showed the spirit of American enterprise, and although most of the buildings were of logs, yet we found several stores well supplied with the necessaries of life, and their 76 STORIES OP OLD OREGON i owners anxiously awaiting the settlement of the country. After a day's rest with our horses picketed "on the outskirts of town, we set forward over low, rolling hills, which separated Dry creek, Touchet, Tucanon, Pataha, Alpowa and Snake rivers. Two days' travel brought us to Lewiston, situated on the Snake river, at the mouth of the Clearwater. I was surprised to find a little town composed entirely of canvas tents. On inquiry, I learned that it was on another reservation, and the Indians opposed the erection of more permanent houses. Over hills and low mountains again for two days, and we came to Oro Fino. Who can describe a min ing camp, with its motley crowd and nondescript. improvements; its wealth and its poverty; its so briety and its recklessness; its poets, philosophers. and statesman; its saloons and desperate men; its bacon and beans ; its rich gulches and poverty flats ; and above all, its wild excitement? To stand on ground mixed with gold will craze men's soul and render them the very embodiment of the intensified good and evil of the world. All the natural hatred men feel for the delays of courts and sophistry of lawyers; for the niggardly reward of merit and tardy hand of justice, here find scope for action. A king would be hung for any minor offense, but a. ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 77 beggar would be defended in a right by every drop of blood in the camp. The first man I met among this fevered crowd was Oregon's poet, my old schoolmate, Joaquin Mil ler. His blue eyes sparkled with kindly greeting, and as I took his hand, I knew by its quickened pulse and tightened clasp that he, too, was sharing in the excitement of the gold hunter. He was then in the first blush of manhood, with buoyant spirits, un tiring energy, and, among a race of pioneers, the bravest of the brave. He was accorded more than ordinary talent, and looked forward with hope to the battle of life, expecting to reap his share of its honors and rewards. For years he was foremost in every desperate enterprise; crossing snow-capped mountains, swollen rivers, and against hostile In dians. When the snow fell fifteen feet deep on the Florence mountain, and hundreds were penned in camp without a word from wives, children and loved ones at home, he said: "Boys, I will bring your letters from Lewiston." Afoot and alone, without a trail, he crossed the mountain tops, the dangerous streams, the wintry desert of Camas prairie, fight ing back the hungry mountain wolves, and came back bending beneath the weight of loving messages from home. He was found today, in defense of the weak, facing the pistol or bowie knife of the 78 STORIES OP OLD OREGON desperado, and tomorrow washing the clothes and smoothing the pillow of a sick comrade. We all loved him, but we were not men who wrote for the newspapers and magazines, and his acts of heroism and kindness were unchronicled, save in the hearts of those who knew him in those times, and under those trying circumstances. He has had his full share of the trials of life, yet, through all, he has been true to his own land. He has wooed his muse and tuned his lyre across the great waters, but he sung of his boyhood scenes, of the Pacific coast, its rivers, mountains, and men, and he has been true to all. He poetized the grandeur of our land so nobly as to electrify all Europe, the swelling notes of his praise reaching our ears from across the Atlantic. I have neglected to say Thomas grew weary of our journey, and being a carpenter by trade, concluded to try his fortune at Walla Walla ; so we divided our provisions and blankets. I regretted to leave him, for although wholly unlike in disposition, we were much attached to each other, and shook hands at parting, with mutual reluctance. It is strange to say how opposites will care for each other. I have known a great, strong, courageous man to have for his warmest friend a little, sickly, puny creature, possessed of neither enterprise nor courage, and who ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 79 could be of no earthly good to him except to meekly allow him to support and defend him. I suppose such friendships might be termed a species of frontier marriage. At any rate, friends and partners are chosen in the mines with all the sublime indifference to results which characterize marriages between the sexes. There are many men in the mines who would become rich if it were not for their partners, and there are many partners in the settlement who would get rich if it were not for their man. What benevolence there is in this law of selection! If it were not so, we should have two classes — paupers and millionaires. After looking around .Oro Fino a few days, and finding all claims supposed to be valuable occupied, I consented to go with an acquaintance whom I met, to a new "find" on the headwaters of the South Clearwater. He had just returned after locating a claim and reported very rich diggings. I secured a fresh supply of provisions, and listening to his exciting talk, rode along feeling certain that a single range of mountains was all that separated me from a fortune. I knew so little of mines that when he told me that a man had picked up on the bedrock $10 in about twenty minutes, I began to calculate how much I could pick up in a day, working four teen hours per day (which I resolved to do) . I could 80 STORIES OF OLD OREGON make $420; this was very good wages. I felt quite happy, and wondered what Thomas would say when I returned to Walla Walla with my horse loaded down with gold dust. I resolved to give him a good share, and do many other benevolent things, besides making some very pleasing arrangements for myself. Alas — "The best laid plans of mice and men Gang aft aglee, And leave us naught but grief and pain For promised joy." Four days' travel brought us to the new camp. There were about twenty men, mostly engaged in building cabins and digging ditches. There was no excitement, and my ardor began to cool; I did not like the looks of things. The men seemed to be preparing to stay, while I was only anxious to secure some gold and return. I was willing to stay a few weeks, but I did not feel like making any permanent improvements. I, therefore, pitched my tent and commenced my search for gold. Many years have passed, and I am still searching. I find none except what is in someone's possession. Day after day I prospected, and found only mica and isinglass after washing away the dirt. I began to realize that "all is not gold that glitters." Still ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 81 I worked on, hoping to find what I sought at the bottom of some hole, many of which I dug with pick and shovel in the bed of streams and gulches. Hope was strong, yet often my heart sunk within me, when after toiling all day I found nothing on the bedrock but sand and gravel. In the meantime, hundreds were pouring into our camp, coming it seemed, from all quarters of the world. I believe every nation on earth was represented in that camp within three months of its discovery. A town was located on Elk creek, and launched forth on the commercial sea under the name of Elk City. There were no surveyors nor architects employed; no steamboats nor locomotives disturbed its inhabi tants; yet it grew so fast as to astonish everyone except the old miners. Men who had tramped from camp to camp since 'forty-nine" complained that it grew slow, and told of the wonderful growth of San Francisco, Sacramento, Yreka and other mining towns of California. After laboring diligently a month with no success, I purchased a claim from a gambler who had taken it up for speculative pur poses, giving him in payment a bedrock note for $200. It read: "I promise to pay the bearer $200 in gold dust when it is taken out of claim No. 54, over and above grub." These notes pass current, and anyone who would attempt to attach the usual 82 STORIES OF OLD OREGON condition for attorney's fees, would be dealt with in a summary manner, and according to miners' notions of justice. Many claims were now opened, and being worked with sluices, paid from $25 to $40 per day per man. Excitement ran high. A graveyard was started, and soon became a popular resort. The only man buried there within the first three months who did not have a bullet hole in him was a poor minister, who being a non-combatant, was unfit for honorable fight and was knocked in the head with a whisky bottle, and buried in the potter's field, "unwept, un- honored and unsung." I have often thought of that poor preacher who lies in the lower corner of that beautiful mountain cemetery, and regretted that the manner of his death prevented his being buried on the more rising ground and among gentlemen. It must not be sup posed that all disputes were settled with the pistol or bowie knife. Peaceable-minded men were always ready to leave disputes about mining affairs to a meeting of the miners, who were called together by notices posted at prominent points, stating the ob jects of the meeting, and signed by the recorder of the district. Such meetings were always well at tended and orderly, and their decisions ranked with those of the supreme court of the United States, and ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 83 were as just as a hurried presentation of the facts would allow. Much has been said in praise of the justice of miners' courts. They intend to do right, but their decrees are not always wise or just, and are open to many objections, prominent among which is that they are made in such haste as to prevent a compe tent presentation of the facts, and are influenced more by impulse than by reason or good judgment. A single case will illustrate: Two gamblers by the name of Finigan and Dorsey quarreled one day in a saloon at Elk City: They were both desperate men, and standing a few feet apart, fired three shots apiece. Dorsey missed, but Finigan put his shots well in, and at the third fire his man was floored, with three dangerous wounds in his body, and was carried away vowing to kill his adversary should he ever again stand on his feet. His wounds were dressed and he was placed in bed in the upper story of the saloon building. About 9 o'clock that night the doctor came into the saloon and said his patient was in a sound sleep and he had hopes of his re covery. A few moments later, Finigan borrowed a candle from the barkeeper, went to the wounded man's room and cut his throat at a single blow with a large knife which he always carried, leaving it there to tell the story of his terrible guilt. Half 84 STORIES OF OLD OREGON an hour later he came into the saloon with blood on his clothes, and invited all hands up to drink. He was arrested and tried at a miners' court, and found guilty of murder in the first degree. He confessed his crime and was sentenced to be hung. Twelve men were appointed to execute the sentence. Elaborate preparations were made for him; his grave was dug and the scaffold erected; and at the appointed time he stood with the rope around his neck, ready to be launched into eternity. He was allowed to speak to the crowd gathered around at the foot of the gallows. Young, handsome, intel ligent, he brought tears to our eyes as he told how, step by step, strong drink had brought him down from a respected member of society and the high estate of manhood, until his life was justly forfeited to the laws of his country. He thanked his judges for a just verdict, gave a letter for his mother to a friend, and without a tremor in his voice, bade us all good-by, and giving a signal, in an instant was hanging at the end of the rope. His neck was not broken by the fall, and the hangman's knot, being imperfectly tied, slowly un wound and let him fall to the ground. He called for a drink of water and begged for his life. In an in stant men were shouting, "Let him live! Let him live!" Some jumped upon stumps and made ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 85 speeches in his defense, while many drew their pis tols and declared he had been hung enough, and they would shoot the first man who proposed to hang him again. A new vote was taken and he was unanimously cleared. A collection taken up by an old miner with tears streaming down his cheeks, furnished a horse and saddle, and Finigan rode away with hat in hand, turning in his saddle to bow gracefully to an admir ing and happy crowd. Ten minutes later some dis cordant wretch said the hangsman had intended to defeat the ends of justice by tying a bogus knot. Instantly a clamor arose, demanding that the hang man stand on Finigan's scaffold and try a drop with a securer knot than he had tied. After a great many speeches were made and he was nearly scared to death, he was allowed to sneak away, his friends forming a line to cover his retreat and prevent the crowd from shooting him down as he went. When I took the first gold from my claim I was $2,000 in debt. How I became so involved has al ways been a mystery to me ; but it so happened that I had the best claim on the river; it paid regularly, and never less than $25 per day. Running four strings of sluices, with sixteen men, every day's work put into my purse $400 worth of dust, and 86 STORIES OF OLD OREGON again I felt sure of a fortune. But weeks passed, and after paying my debts and keeping up expenses I had saved but little money. A QUARTZ MILL Adventures in the Mines. IV. One day about the 1st of October, two men came into town, purchased a supply of provisions, and told a friend under solemn promise of secrecy, that they had discovered a very rich placer on the waters of Salmon river. That friend had another friend; he had another, and in less than an hour we had all heard the exciting news, and hundreds were rushing around, getting ready to follow the two men, who had started on their way back. Ah, then and there was hurrying to and fro, And there was mounting in hot haste. And 300 men rode over the big mountain, eight miles, to Red river, and there came upon the two miners who had told just one friend. Their looks of surprise and indignation were amusing, but we coolly unpacked our horses and camped so as to completely encircle them, determined if they went to the diggings, we would go too. Red River val- 88 STORIES OF OLD OREGON ley is one mile broad and eight long, and so beauti ful in appearance that I will not attempt to de scribe it. At 8 o'clock next morning we observed signs in the camp of the two men which indicated they were about to start. Hurriedly packing, we kept the line of march unbroken, and followed their crooks, turn ings, and doublings, in a manner highly satisfactory to us, but very annoying to them. We soon saw that they were determined to leave us, and all at tempts at compromise with them failing, we placed a guard over them at night, and industriously fol lowed them through the day. After leaving the valley, we had no trail. The mountains full of brush, logs, rocks, and canyons, were difficult to travel in, and the men we were following, being ex perts in mountain travel, led us a lively race. I have always thought our chase after those men, through the mountains, the most ludicrous affair I ever saw. Sometimes they would ascend a high peak for the sole purpose of fatiguing their retinue. Then, while we were panting on the mountain top, they would circle around and retrace their steps to the bottom. This state of affairs continued about ten days, greatly fatiguing both horses and men, and bringing us no nearer the mines. Various plans were discussed for bringing our ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 89 tormentors to terms. Some suggested a bribe, while others were in favor of hanging a rope with a noose in it, near their camp, as an intimation of what they might expect should they persist in trying to leave us. Human endurance has its limit, and one day, after traveling from daylight until dark, back and forth, over mountains so rough that many horses gave out and were left behind, we went over to the camp of Shorty and Red Shirt, as we called them, and told them we were determined to have no more foolish ness ; that they must promise to lead us direct to the mines, or their lives should pay the forfeit. Seeing we were in earnest, they gave the promise, and we had a general handshaking all around. Good feeling being restored, it was wonderful how Shorty and Red Shirt grew in favor and popularity. Their camp was invaded by our whole force, and we smilingly listened to every word which fell from their lips, for they were golden words, and told of Nature's treasures hidden a few miles further on, and just beneath the pine trees and fallen leaves. That evening we camped by a mountain lake. Dense spruce timber surrounded it, and opened only to make room for this mountain gem and its grassy border. The lake and opening in the timber were perfect ovals. The trees, as though afraid to come 90 STORIES OP OLD OREGON too near, stood back, while the grass and mountain flowers went down from their feet to be kissed by the pure and silent waves. Someone said it was the bath pool of the gods. For a time we forgot to talk of trials past, or even gold, and strolled along the shores in deep and silent admiration, and when the stars shone out and were reflected from that mirror in the mountain's lap, I felt as though there must be some thing better in this life and in the next than gold, and went to my camp filled with thoughts in which the thirst for wealth had little part. Two days more, and we descended from the high peaks to a basin about ten miles in diameter, and covered with young spruce pine. About 4 o'clock, while jogging along, the foremost men raised a shout which announced that we had at last reached the Salmon river mines. Twelve men were in the camp, and as we came to the first one, who was wash ing a pan of dirt, we realized "the half had not been told," and letting our horses take care of themselves, commenced running up and down the creek and marking out our claims. Each claimed 300 feet, and put a hurriedly written notice on tree or stake, at each end of the claim. They read: "I claim 300 feet up (or down, as the case may be) this creek for mining purposes." One fellow posted his notice on a tree, and did ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 91 not observe until next day that he claimed 300 feet up the tree, instead of the creek. Of course, we didn't stop at one claim. I think our party put no tices on at least 10,000, in less than three days. We had no time to prospect, but laid claim to the sur rounding country indiscriminately. In the evening we gathered around the men who were mining, and saw them wash out $100 from a pan of dirt. We all went wild with jealousy, joy, or despair, as we found a good prospect, a poor one, or saw our enemy with a pan half full of gold. We organized a miners' camp and called it Flor ence, elected officers, and were proceeding to build cabins, when we were awakened to a knowledge of our situation by a heavy fall of snow. We had ex hausted our provisions, and man and horse must leave or starve. We found we had something be sides gold to care for, and concluded to let the yel low dust rest, while we took care of our stomachs. We had in our crowd two Nez Perce Indians, who said they could guide us to Camas Prairie ; and pack ing up on the sixth day after our arrival, we started for Lewiston. Many horses were now worn to skin and bones, and as we had to chop our way through fallen groves of young timber, we moved very slowly. We were three days making fifteen miles, and when we reached Salmon river and found a 92 STORIES OP OLD OREGON good trail leading to Lewiston, we were happy, and traveled along, as merry a throng as ever bore such hardships as we endured, and lived to come safe home. We were all to return to our claims next spring, and not a man but thought he had a fortune in his reach, when Nature should unclasp her icy bands which barred him out and kept his treasure in. At White Bird creek, near the southeastern corner of Camas Prairie, I left the Lewiston trail and parted with my companions, determined to make my way back to my claim and partners at Elk City. This was no easy task, as winter seemed to have set in, and snow lay several feet deep on the moun tains. My horse could go no further, and leaving him regretfully to the mercy of an Idaho winter, I followed an Indian trail along the western edge of Camas Prairie, to what was called Silverman's Crossing of Clearwater. Here I found a camp of the Nez Perces, and in exchange for dust, secured flour, coffee and venison. After a fatiguing journey of fifty miles, I reached our old camp and found my partners anxiously awaiting news from Florence. A few days later 1 learned that great numbers of men from Lewiston were going to the new mines, regardless of snow, and concluded to go back myself, as I feared our claims would not be respected by the new crowd go- ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 93 ing in. After two days' preparation I again set out, this time well supplied with everything necessary for the trip, and acting as guide to sixty new recruits who were anxious to try the cold weather and deep snows of Florence basin. Among this crowd I found myself quite a hero. They loved me, not "for the dangers I had passed," but for the good news I brought, and listened eagerly to the oft-told tale of $100 to the pan. My company was never so much in demand before, nor has it been since, and I could have been elected to any office in their gift, by unanimous vote. A month later, when we returned with empty pockets, gnaw ing stomachs, and frozen toes, I might have been hanged by these same men, had anyone possessed energy enough to insist on the execution of their ideas of justice. I let their sour looks pass, but placed the memory of them in the collection I was making, from which I afterwards formed my esti mate of miners' justice. We followed the route on which I had returned, and on the fifth day came to the crossing of the White Bird, where we intercepted the line of travel from Lewiston. Here we found many campers, and learned to a certainty that our formal closing of the diggings until spring was unheeded, and that several thousand men were now making their way 94 STORIES OF OLD OREGON over the deep snows, and were jumping our claims as fast as they came to them. It was wonderful what a rush was being made for that frozen camp. Men were coming from all quarters, and paid no attention to winter and its unpleasant accompaniments. In places where the snow was very deep it was shoveled away, tramped hard by men, or bridged with spruce brush; and pack mules, loaded with 300 pounds apiece, passed safely along, landing the necessaries of life on Summit Flat in the midst of the now famous Flor ence diggings. Slate Creek hill, fifteen miles from the mines, is the longest, highest, and hardest hill to climb I ever saw. From bottom to top it was festooned with men, mules, spotted cayuses, and jackasses. Men puffed and blew as they had never done before, and horses, mules, and cayuses, and other things, climbed, fell, rolled, tumbled, slid, kicked, squealed, snorted, brayed and bit, in a man ner indescribable, and which would have been very amusing to anyone not engaged in the struggle. The fearful oaths that vollied out from that moun tain side, if treasured up, would have sunk the uni verse. They went out into the air and were telephoned on the morning breeze across Salmon river, echoing along its canyons from cliff to cliff, and dying away ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 95 in a wrathful growl upon the rippling stream. Let us hope they ended there; that as the rocky hills treasured not up the wrong when their sides no longer vibrated with discordant notes, and the rush ing water laughingly hushed them with its own sweet silvery music. Heaven will not be defaced by everlasting impressions of them, or less mercy found than shown by that rock-bound river. Florence basin was alive from bottom to top, and men were crawling over the brim on three sides. Florence City was started; new discoveries were made; men were shot while- wrangling over claims, cards, or whisky ; women rode in on mules. And all went merry as a marriage bell. But hark! A deep sound breaks in once more. A storm came on, and as the snow came down and the wind mourned through the deadened trees, we realized that all who were not prepared for a winter in a high northern latitude, had better re trace their steps before the snow should entirely shut them in. Provisions on hand were entirely insufficient for the men in camp. Already flour was sold at $1.50 per pound, and many had neither money nor pro visions. What prospecting was done, tended rather to show that the mines were not extensive; and of 96 STORIES OF OLD OREGON the men there, not one in a hundred had a claim worth working. Summit Flat, a mile long, Babboon gulsh, Miller's creek, and a few other short gulches were very rich, but outside of those, nothing good was found. Then the reaction set in, and the herd went back faster than they came, over the same trail, over the Slate Creek hill. They labored less, but swore infinitely more than when they came. The toughest ones being left in camp, we had a lively time. Claims were jumped right and left. The Irish were in the majority, and miners' meetings de cided not who was entitled to possession, but to what nationality the contestants belonged. Many of these decisions were contrary to justice and gave serious trouble, sometimes resulting in shooting scrapes. An old man by the name of Lyons was the first victim of this mob. He had two partners named George and Jim Rodock, brothers, who came out with us the first time from Elk City. Lyons stayed on American river and worked their claims until they sent him word to come to Florence. Be fore he arrived they sold the claim they had taken up for him, and told him, when he came, that he was no longer their partner, and must look out for himself. The old man was camped with me and told his grievances. I advised him to let them go, and try to find a new claim. He went above them on the ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 97 gulch, and sinking a hole, discovered a very rich claim. The Rodocks, hearing of his good fortune, came and claimed a share with him. This being refused, they told him he should not work there, and that if he came back they would kill him. He was de termined not to be driven away, and went, axe in hand, to chop a log which lay on the claim; he said he was afraid to go, but that he had been working for eight years to support his little grand-daughter, and he believed there was gold enough there to support her the rest of her life, and he would risk his life to get it for her. Tears were in his eyes, as he talked of this child and showed her baby let-. ters. An hour after he went to work, we found him lying upon his back in the snow, with a bullet through his heart. He had made an effort at self- defense, for his pistol was half drawn from its scabbard, and tightly clutched in the lifeless fingers. We carried him up and laid him to rest on the hill near Florence, and then went to look after his murderers; never doubting they felt secure and would be found in their cabin. A friend of the murdered man had seen the shooting, and had ex changed several shots with the brothers, but being some distance away, both had missed. We arrived at the cabin after dark, and seeing no light and 98 STORIES OF OLD OREGON getting no answer, beat down the barred door with a log, and found they had gone. I forgot to say that before we looked them up, one of them had gone through some form of a trial among his friends, and had been discharged, before half the miners knew the crime had been committed. They did not return, and their claims, cabin and supplies were jumped by some needy friends; but the miners took possession of the old man's claim, sold it for $2,000 cash, and sent the whole amount to well known and reliable men in San Francisco, whom they appointed guardians, directing them to receive and use it as a legacy from the faithful old man to the child for whom he had labored eight years, and had risked and lost his life. After thorough prospecting, my own claim proved to be a poor one, and I hired out to work on Summit Flat for $16 per day. The owner of the claim and myself, working one rocker, took out about $200 a day, after stripping the ground of four feet of turf. The ground was very flat and would not admit of working with sluices. One day while rocking the cradle we witnessed a very amusing affair. An old German had built a very small house on the edge of the flat. It was neatly built, and com plete throughout, except the door. He looked it all over and gave the ratifying nod, and went up to ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 99 the store for some nails to make his door with. He was not gone more than half an hour, as he was anxious to move into his new and comfortable quar ters that evening. When he reached the door he commenced to roar like a wounded grizzly, swearing in Dutch, tearing his hair, and dancing around in a most frantic manner. We hastened down to see what could be the matter. We saw a sight that was as ludicrous to us as it was exasperating to the Dutchman. An old horse which had been turned out to die, had been gnawing the turf upon the flat for several days; he was Very large and very poor. He went into the little house, no doubt thinking it was a stable, and in trying to turn around, had fal len and died. The Dutchman jumped upon his poor old carcass with both feet, and yelled like a Co manche, but he was stone dead. His head, which showed him to be of the finest American stock, lay in one corner, while the toes of his hind feet, stubbed by the rocky hills he had crossed, reached the other. He had been a splendid horse, and even while the old man was tearing around, I ceased laughing to pity his fate and con template his splendid proportions — splendid even in poverty and death. The old man continued to tear around for a quarter of an hour, paying no atten tion to those gathered around, but cursing the old 100 STORIES OF OLD OREGON horse over and over again, until he was almost ex hausted. Then he cooled down and went to work with his butcher knife and hatchet, to cut up the carcass. He would cut off a leg, and taking it upon his shoulder carry it away, stooping beneath his load and muttering curses at every breath. I would give $100 for a correct picture of that Dutchman as he carried away the last load. It was that monstrous head, grasped by one ear. As he grinned back at the laughing crowd, some one asked him why he did not tie a rope to the horse and get his friends to help drag him away. "My door vas two feet; tee hips mit dot horse vas four feet. Ter tiefel pring him to my house whole, I must fetch him away in pieces. He vas too tam big anyways, I make some ponies of him. Dot last het on mine pack was big ger tan some jackasses." About this time we had an Indian scare. Two prospectors returned and reported that 1,500 In dians, headed by old Eagle-of-the-Light, were about twelve miles north of us. The report created great excitement and seemed not improbable, as that war like chief had threatened the miners with destruc tion should they persist in invading his domains. He was a renegade Nez Perce, supported by the same band of Snakes which has since given so much trouble in Idaho and Washington territories. We ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 101 enrolled two companies under Jeff Stanif er and Jack Stanfield, and started out to meet the hostiles. Great caution was necessary to prevent a surprise in that broken country, and we were several days before we discovered the cause of the first alarm. The whole thing originated in a trifling affair. Three men had sunk a prospect hole, and finding nothing, were mak ing merry over their disappointment. One beat a tattoo on a pan, while the others danced around and yelled, imitating the war dance of the Sioux. Just at this moment the men who spread the alarm, hear ing the noise, peered over the hill and saw the dance. Two of the dancers had on red shirts, and being a mile distant were mistaken for Indians. The echoes multiplied the whoops and warlike notes, until 1,500 painted warriors was the least estimate made of the dancing army. Discouraged at finding no one to shoot at but one another, we went back to town, intending to make a miniature lead mine of the men who had deceived us, but they were never found, and are probably living today in peace ful seclusion under laws which would have been no protection to them had they met the two armies which marched back to Florence from the scene of the mimic war dance. All this time the weather was getting colder, the snow deeper, and the provisions becoming more and 102 STORIES OF OLD OREGON more scarce. Still men came and went. Pack ani mals could no longer reach the camp, and pack trains of men brought flour from Slate creek. Each packer owned his own train, and loaded up and unloaded as he pleased. He could carry from fifty to 100 pounds, making the trip in two days, and was paid $1 per pound freight. Some men established rep utations for strength and endurance, rivaling that of a mule, by the enormous loads they packed, while others received less enviable ones by taking their meals from the contents of the sack they carried. Established packers had a reputation to maintain, and could not afford to lose it for a few pounds of flour, and a sack that came on the shoulders of Long Jim or Big Jack was taken at par, while those brought by men of less repute were subject to closer scrutiny, and often weighed. Many of the miners were from Oregon, and had brought from their homes sober habits and quiet dispositions, together with other adjuncts of civ ilized life. Vocal and instrumental music, with anecdotes and intelligent conversation, whiled away the evening hours within the rugged cabins. But the town had received many accessions from Washoe and other mining camps of a different style of men. Fred Patterson, Billy Mayfield, Jakey Will iams, Cherokee Bob, and a dozen other desperadoes, ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 103 were amongst us. Each could boast of several men who had lost their lives while fooling with them; and all were anxious to add to their laurels by se curing a few more victims before some quicker hand than theirs should stop their fated course. Poor old man Lyons! He was not allowed to rest alone on the claim we gave him. Hurrying crowds tramped above his bed; the hill opened, and men with boots upon their feet, with bloody hands and blackened soul laid them down to sleep beside him. To me, this seemed a desecration, but I hold less censure now, and hope the blood of Christ nas power enough to wash their stains away, and purge their souls so white that some time in eternity good, old Father Lyons, in the realms above, shall not shudder, but rejoice to see them come. Reckless men held high carnival in Florence for a year, when those who survived the knife and pistol, finding money was getting scarce, sought other scenes, and Placerville, Bannock, Rocky Bar, and Silver City, trembled at their deeds. Not one of those I have mentioned is now alive, and many of their class have joined them in their bloody graves. Not one has lived a worthy life, or died a noble death. And yet they were not wholly bad. Their generous im pulses were known throughout the land, and wit nessing their noble bearing and desperate courage, 104 STORIES OF OLD OREGON I could but regret that they had not been turned in youth to nobler fields of conquest, where generous courage could adorn a well-spent life, and where the world would look the brighter for their lives. I feel like saying more about these men, and think some day I shall; but youth will not be led astray, nor decent people shocked, as when the life of Jesse James appeared, for I shall speak the truth; record the deeds they did; point to their bloody graves, which tell the moral out so plain that, though their deeds were crimes, the lessons which they truly teach, may prove a blessing now. As I have said,the weather was getting very cold, and but little work could be done. A few men had rich claims, but the majority were wandering around with nothing to do. My own hopes of a fortune had gradually withered, and I believed, as afterwards proved true, that the rich spots about Florence were mostly found. Moreover, I had promised some one to come back to the little school house by the bridge, and for the second time I turned my back on Flor ence and waded through the snows to firmer foot ing. I must reach Elk City before going home, or else I should return poorer than I came. Again I left the traveled road at White Bird, skirted Camas Prairie, and reached the crossing of the Clearwater. Some men mining on the bars just ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 105 above the crossing declared that I could not wade the snow across the mountain. I made a pair of snow shoes and started up the steep incline. At first the snow was light, but steadily increased in depth until I could make but little headway. My snow shoes did not work well, and sometimes where drifts of light snow lay, I was forced to lie full length and crawl across them. I was five days going fifty miles, and endured fatigue and exposure enough to kill anything but a mule or a young Webfoot. Elk City looked like a camp meeting the day after ad journment; not one house in ten was occupied. My partners were not expecting me, but welcomed me back, and we all concluded to leave our claim * until spring and go to Walla Walla to winter. I did not say to them I was going home, for fear they would all want to go, and we did not have enough money to send more than one off in good style. Webfoot boys become homesick very easily, and once taken, they are like the Swiss people when away from home, genuinely sick. Adventures in the Mines. Carrying our blankets and camping out at night, we made our way across the mountains, and ai'ler a weary tramp arrived at Lewiston, the canvas town. It was quite a city now ; the white tents stand ing on the plain looked like the bivouac of an army, and contrasted strangely with the other towns. The tents were in the form of one-story houses, standing in the regular order and supported with a light framework of wood. Some of them contained large stocks of goods, while others were saloons, hotels, etc. We stopped at the Oro Fino house, and while at supper, noticed some bullet holes in the canvas near where we sat. I remarked to the proprietor that he had difficulty with his waiters. "No," said he, "those shots were fired at the French restaurant man at the other end of the block by his cook. They passed through the entire block, encountering nothing but canvas, but one of 108 STORIES OF OLD OREGON them killed a mule in the next street. There are some more in the back of the tent. They were fired from across the river by some one who was trying the range of a Sharp's rifle. I would like to put up some boards to protect my patrons while at their meals, but the government officers stationed at Lap- wai will not allow it, and I must do the best I can until a treaty can be made with the Indians. I al ways seat gentlemen on this side of the table, so that if hit by a bullet from the big saloon it will not be in the back. But with government officers, lawyers, doctors, and Indian agents, it don't mat ter, and those reserved seats are for them." Sincerely appreciating the courtesy of this man, we made a hearty meal, and soon after went to rest, hoping our bodies would not be perforated during the night by shots from the big saloon. Three days' travel brought us to Walla Walla. Here I met the long lost Thomas, and we agreed to return home to gether. The town was wonderfully improved, and business activity manifest on every side. The news from Florence had converted it into a mining camp although 200 miles from where the gold was found. The same wild excitement which I had witnessed at Oro Fino, Elk City and Florence, was here. Everything was worth more money than it had ever been before. The most indolent men held up their ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 109 heads, quickened their pace, and boldly went into speculation, buying whatever was offered, and pay ing but little attention to price. The mania for speculation was universal. The lazy Indian brought his ponies to market, and even the pony himself seemed to look proud when a white man thought him worth $100. I felt as much excited as the rest, but "remembering things that were," I turned my back on all this, purchased a horse, and started home. I had ridden about half way through the town when I met the Devil, in the form of an old friend, who said: "George, you are going back to poverty and ob scurity. You are young, and you should try to get a fortune. If you will stay two years in this coun try you can make money enough to astonish the whole Webfoot nation." Some way this speech stuck to my ear. I al ways thought I should like to astonish the Webfeet, especially the girls. I said: "If I should stay, what can I do with my dust?" He cast his eye up the street for an investment; glanced at a hotel, a saloon, a blacksmith shop, and finally settled his hellish gaze upon an ox team. "Buy that team," he said, "and go with my train to Lewiston. You can make a thousand dollars in thirty days." I consented, purchased the team, and thirty 110 STORIES OP OLD OREGON minutes later was on the road to Lewiston, loaded with flour and bacon. I had abandoned cherished plans, and embarked on a new enterprise. My emo tions were high and conflicting, and as I walked along beside the oxen, I tried to compose a few lines of poetry to be sent below as an apology for not re turning : "0 do not think that I am false, That Florence snows have quenched my flame. Men have been true a hundred years, But I'll be ." I never could finish that verse. The poet's muse has not been aristocratic; it has cheered the lower walks of life ; has sat by the sailor's cot, and lingered about the hut of the shepherd ; has visited the blind and deaf, and even gilded the captive's cell. But there is one thing it never did dp — it never fooled away any time with a man who was driving an ox team. This I partly realized as I tried in vain to finish my verse, and cracked my whip upon the flagging team. It seemed that the oxen were moving slower .at every step, and seemed to be pulling harder and ;harder. At last they stalled on a little hill, and I ccould not make them move. After much yelling and whipping, I looked back at the two wagons I ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 111 was trying to start. To the hindmost one my horse was tied with a stout rope ; he was down on his side, and it was he who had caused the heavy pulling and finally stopped the team. He was choked to death, and had been dead for a quarter of an hour. A man who overtook me said he saw him down when I came over the last hill, and he had been hallooing to me ever since, but as the wind was blowing I did not hear. My three lines of verse had cost me $100. My cattle, which cost me ten times that amount, proved of as little value as they, for the hard win ter which was ushered in by the next day's storm, froze them all to death, and I was left with my bitter experience, my three lines of verse, and my future expectations. During the whole of that win ter, which was the hardest ever known in that coun try, Walla Walla was gathering from the miners a rich harvest of gold. While the snows were whit ening upon the plain, and cattle were starving upon a thousand hills, the townspeople were gaining in wealth as never before. All kinds of trade was good, but gambling seemed to be in the summit of its glory. Ten thousand dollars were frequently bet on the turn of a single card, and the whole town wae in a wild mad state of uproarous hilarity. Some readers will remember the desperado, Tom Gafner. 112 STORIES OF OLD OREGON He went to Walla Walla, and soon distinguished himself as a quarrelsome and desperate man. While passing along the street one day, he saw a Jew sitting inside the window of his store, and taking a box which had been filled with clay pipes and had been placed outside for a tobacco sign, threw it through the window upon the unoffending Jew. These people are generally peaceable and slow to wrath, but if there is anything that will over come their natural reluctance to fight, it is to see their property destroyed, and especially in such a wanton manner as this. The clay pipes had not ceased rattling on the floor, before the Jew, armed with a stout sword, sprang through the door and aimed a blow at the head of his assailant. Gafner skillfully parried it with a light thorn stick which he carried, and dealt a blow in return which brought the swordsman to his knees. The Jew fought with the wild rage of a maddened beast,. or the desperate courage of Roderick Dhu whilst his antagonist laughed in his face and foiled his blows with the cool courage of Fitz James. Gafner was an expert swordsman, and upon that slender cane received a dozen blows, and with it gave as many in return, un til a down cut reached his right hand and left it use less. The cane fell, and as he stooped to pick it up, the sword was buried in his head. He died the next ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 113 day, and all agreed that he had received his just re ward. Yet somewhere, hearts were anguished by his fall. Some one loved him when a laughing baby. Some one waited for his coming. Somewhere tears were shed for him. By the middle of January, snow had fallen to a depth of two and a half feet, and a very heavy sleet had formed on top, rendering it impossible for stock to get anything to eat on the ranges. Cattle died by thousands, and not more than 1 per cent of the vast herds north of The Dalles were alive when spring came. The thermometer went down until the mercury congealed, and many persons were frozen to death. As but little has been said in these sketches about the ladies, I may mention a young actress about whom the boys raved that cold winter. Susie Rob inson, the star of the Robinson troupe, which played in Corvallis during the winter of 1860, was a beau tiful girl, who sang divinely, and set the masculine hearts palpitating wherever she went. She was at the height of her fame, and in all her glory at Walla Walla, and more admired and petted than any queen. Her form and voice were praised by all, and her virtue extolled, while her father gathered at the door of his theater willing tributes enough, each day, to have made her a golden crown. Was ever 114 STORIES OF OLD OREGON a queen so fortunately situated? We know now that she was not a great actress or singer, and my roving eyes have since discovered that she was not a remarkable beauty, but at that time many Oregon boys had never seen the gay tinsels of a stage cos tume ; never been thrilled by the rich tones of a cul tivated voice, or seen a beautiful woman poised on one toe, and she took the frontier heart by storm. Nor were the Oregon boys her only admirers. Men of mature years left their families at home, and came to see what the boys were all talking about. A German surgeon of high repute lost his reason entirely while contemplating her glories. Two companies of troops were stationed at the fort, and the soldiers were as much infatuated with Susie as were the citizens. They came to the theater by companies, and seated themselves in platoons before the stage. Then came trouble. The citizens would not allow the favorite to be monopo lized by soldiers, and after several slight encounters drove them from the theater, telling them not to come again or civil war would certainly follow. They had enlisted for three years or the war. The stirring news from the Southern states was over coming the influences of the fort, and they felt combative. Moreover, they wanted to see Susie, and probably thought if Uncle Abe was going to ADVENTURES IN THE MINES ll5 march their brethren down to take Richmond, they ought to be able to take Robinson's theater. They came fully armed, and determined to insist upon their rights. We all knew a fight was coming, and divided our sympathies according to our political opinions. Susie came upon the stage, and the sight of her for a time quelled even the turbulent feel ings of the two contending factions. A hearty round of applause greeted her, and she acknowledged it as only a favorite can, and commenced to sing. One of the soldiers, who had been drinking, continued to cheer, and the marshal attempted to take him from the room, but he resisted and felled the offi cer with a blow of a dragoon pistol. Instantly the house was in an uproar. Susie screamed and ran from the stage. Navy Colt's pistols leaped from their scabbards and bellowed like the roar of artil lery. Cherokee Bob sprang upon his seat and fired straight and fast, dropping a soldier at every shot. He stood above most of the crowd, and was a fair mark for all who wanted a shot at a desperado and murderer. The soldiers were intoxicated and missed their mark, but Bob received several shots from one who did not often miss, the last one knocking him from the seat where he stood, and yet he was un hurt. It was known afterward that he wore mail beneath his clothing, and this had saved his worth- 116 STORIES OF OLD OREGON less life. The firing continued from all parts of the room, and a terrible stampede ensued, every one but those engaged trying to get out of the house. More than fifty shots were fired, and the room was filled with smoke, out of which pistols blazed, fired at supposed enemies, though several times friends fired upon each other. Three men were killed and many wounded, besides a great many were nearly scared to death. I helped to carry a man to the surgeon, who said he had a death shot, and was really falling when we caught him. He had the slightest flesh wound, though the ball had struck a purse of coin in his pocket, which turned its course and probably saved his life. No one was arrested, and the theater went on as usual, but Susie never seemed quite the same afterward. A slight commotion in the audience would attract her attention in the midst of her best song, and in her best play she always looked as though she was just a little afraid some one was going to shoot. Many years have passed, and Susie, if among the living, must show the hand of time. "The maid on whose cheek, on whose brow, in whose eye, Shone beauty and pleasure — her triumphs are by." Yet she no doubt remembers and tells her children, if she has been so blessed as to be a mother, that ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 117 -she once held sway over a country large enough for an empire, and ruled her subjects with a royal will. But sometimes thoughts of sadness will steal upon her as she remembers that in trying to please, she once raised a storm she could not quell, and that men have fought and died contending for the right to hear her sing. I spent the latter part of the winter with Thomas on the Touchet, about twenty miles from town. He felt as much distressed at the loss of my oxen as I did myself, and together we discussed future opera tions, and laid plans for the next summer's cam paign. Thomas was in favor of buying another team, which he would drive, but I declared I would never invest in anything so slow as an ox again. This was a splendid resolution, and had I but ad hered to it I would have been spared much vexation of spirit, and have avoided the loss of several thou sand dollars. But we do not like to be beaten, even by Providence, and I chafed sorely over that win ter's defeat. Several years later I purchased an other team of oxen, and the Indians shot them full of arrows on the Malheur river. Then I bought another, and remembering my past experience, sold it at a profit, and took a note for $1,000 in payment. The man ran away and never paid me a dollar. Still 118 STORIES OP OLD OREGON I did not take warning. I bought my fourth and' last ox team. Determined not to be outdone by cold weather, Indians, or rascals, I took all possible precautions, and drove forth to war with destiny. Not a man on earth could have bought those oxen without pay ing cash down; and I guarded them so closely that the Indians could not have stolen them without tak ing my life. I fully believed that I was equal to the emergency of taking care of my property, but it was not to be. On a beautiful day, near the Far- well bend of Snake river, I was driving along, count ing the profits on my load, and believing the goal already won, when suddenly a cloud appeared, veil ing the sun and obscuring the designs of the out raged heavens. A moment later the cloud had. parted, a bolt of fire shot forth, and three of my oxen lay dead in the road — my best ones too, killed in different parts of the team, by forked lightning; and as the thunder pealed and then went chuckling off toward the north I realized that I was in the minority, and fought no more. This is a digression in which I have passed over several years of which I wish to speak, and I will turn to Thomas and take up the thread of my narra tive. We separated again, and before the snow was gone from the hills, I was on my way to the mines, ANOTHER QUARTZ JWILL ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 119 carrying my blankets on my back, while he re mained at Walla Walla. I concluded to try my luck at Oro Fino for a couple of months, until the snow was sufficiently hardened to allow me to reach my claims at Elk City. We found Lewiston had grown during the hard winter, and many tents had given place to more substantial buildings. The big saloon was changed to wood, with walls thick enough to stop a pistol ball, and the town was comparatively safe. From this place the trail was over the snow, but it was settled hard, and was no inconvenience to traverse. Oro Fino was almost buried in snow, it having been shoveled from the streets and banked up on either side higher than the tops of the low houses. Throughout the winter the people had been penned up without communication with the outside world. Flour, bacon, beans, coffee and sugar were plenty, but there was no fresh meat nor vegetables in camp, and that dreadful disease, scurvy, was not uncommon. It is said to be induced by eating too much salt meat. Fresh meat or vegetables are pre ventatives, and all were waiting anxiously for the trains of pack mules to come and bring those much- needed articles. I found some old friends, and went to work with them in a small gulch which empties into Moore's. 120 STORIES OF OLD OREGON creek. The snow was several feet deep, but had thawed away near the streams. We took out about $8 per day per man, and it was a pleasure to me to once more commence to lay up a fortune, for I had by no means abandoned the idea of making one. One day I took a near cut across the hills to town. About half a mile from our camp I came across a little cabin among a cluster of fir trees. Curiosity led me to enter it. The door was closed, but opened easily at a slight touch, and I saw before me on a miner's cot what caused my heart to stand still — a dead man. He was lying on his side, covered, except the head and neck, and had apparently been dead some time. I made but a cursory examination, and hurried back to camp. Gathering a few men, we returned to bury the body, and discover, if possible, the cause of such a lonely and strange death. There were no marks of violence, and his last act seemed to have been to compose himself as if to sleep. Beside his head, on his straw pillow, lay a small book, in which he had kept a dairy of his doings since coming to the cabin. He had found It deserted, and being tired and sick, had concluded to go no further until spring. He had his blankets, a coffee pot, frying pan, and a small stock of pro visions. His writing showed that he was insane when he ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 121 arrived at the cabin, or became so soon after, and had deliberately concluded to starve when his slender stock of food was gone. Each day he had made an entry, noting the condition of his mind and body, and sometimes moralizing on the depravity and selfishness of mankind. He declared that money was all men cared for ; that he had once had money, and was loved by all; now he was poor, and no one cared whether he lived or died; but that he thought too much of himself to ask for charity. He had fastened strings to the door so that he could open and shut it while he was lying in bed. His name, if given, has escaped my memory, and I do not know whether anything more was ever known of him than was gathered at that hurried inquest. The body had been frozen stiff for two months, and was lying within a quarter of a mile of plenty of provisions, and of generous men, who would gladly have relieved him had they known of his dis tress. It was sad to know a human being had died for want of food — sad to contemplate his rash resolve to starve rather than ask a crust of bread of men who gave as free as air. Yet all felt it was his own fault, and nothing but the belief that he was insane prevented a tinge of censure from mingling 122 STORIES OF OLD OREGON with the sorrow felt, as he was laid to rest beside the cabin where he died. Meantime spring was coming on, the streams were swollen by the melting snow. The town awoke to shout for joy to see the mule trains coming in, and all gave promise of returning life and activity. Again the merchant opened up his wares; again saloons were filled, and pistols popped about their doors, or bellowed within their walls. It was a blessing that there were many poor shots, or else the town would have been depopulated by its own business activity. It was strange so much shooting was done and with so little malice. Sometimes shots were fired by Cal if ornians at Webfeet, just for fun. Jerome, a blooded Irishman, being more closely crowded in a saloon one day than suited his taste, drew a dragoon pistol, and laying it over his shoulder, fired four shots at the packed crowd be hind him. The first shot hit a man in the temple, but the ball glanced around the skull and did not kill him. The other three were avoided by men who were in range, by dropping down, while the bullets passed over their heads. The saloon was quickly emptied, and Jerome, after breaking all the bar fixtures and reloading his pistol, walked into the street and defied arrest. Tom Can, the deputy sheriff, placed his pistol to Jerome's ear ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 123 and told him to surrender. He refused, and Tom did not shoot, but wound his arms around him and held him fast. He was taken to Lewiston for trial, but was never punished, and came back to camp. He was well received in town, the sports declaring it was quite a joke, that he had shown no malice, but fired among the crowd quite promiscuously, and just for sport. Our little gulch claim was soon worked out, and the snow having disappeared from the hills, I again set out for the old camp at Elk City in company with a friend, carrying our blankets and provisions on our backs. Following the old Lolo trail, a day's tramp brought us to the stream of that name. Here we found an enterprising Nez Perce Indian. He had built a large bridge, on which pack animals could cross, and was collecting toll. He charged $1 per head for mules and horses, and insisted on mak ing us pay the same, declaring in the best Chinook he could command that we were heavier loaded than any animals which had ever crossed his bridge. How we all love praise ! We paid that dollar more cheer fully because an Indian said we were very strong young men, and our loads felt lighter when remem bering that word of praise. The second day we stopped at noon among the spruce trees. My companion decided to have some 124 STORIES OF OLD OREGON spruce tea. He said it was very good — superior, in? fact, to the best China teas. We filled our coffee pot with the green boughs, covered them with water, and while our bacon was frying, made our tea. It had a greenish color and did not taste well, but by using plenty of sugar, we managed to drink about a pint each; my friend declaring that whether we liked it or not, it was good for our health. How shall I tell the sequel ? My friend grew deathly sick, and I was soon unable to render him any assistance. He rolled and tumbled, gnashed his teeth and swore, while I was half beside myself with fright and pain. I fully believed we were poisoned unto the death, and that a few minutes would end our sufferings,, and we should die and be eaten by the coyotes. It was not a pleasant thought, and I commenced to think of remedies. We had no medicines except a small box of anguentum, intended only for ex ternal application, and I was afraid it would prove another poison if taken into the stomach. I had. once doctored a sick cow with lard, and concluded to try bacon grease on my partner, and if it did not kill him I would try some myself. He declared it was of no use; that he was dying, and only begged, me, if I survived, to tell his girl that he died think ing of her, and to ask her not to marry Lige Howard. He would not take my medicine, and I placed the- ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 125 cup to his lips and forced him to drink half a pint of warm grease. The effect was magical. He was relieved instantly, and I proceeded to fry a little more bacon that I might relieve my own suffering. I am not a chemist, nor a physician, and do not know whether we made a great discovery or not. I simply point the physician's telescope to this por tion of the medical horizon, believing there are stars there of the first magnitude awaiting discovery. After two days' convalescence we were able to travel, but during our entire journey our loads felt heavier from the effects of spruce tea. Elk City had already awoke from its winter nap. Crowds were in the streets, and unsuccessful miners from Florence were opening up their old claims with something of the resignation a man feels when he pays court to his old sweetheart, after having wasted his substance in riotous living, while vainly pursuing some dashing belle. Florence had proved an ignis fatus to the greater number who had gone there, and we returned to our little camps resigned to our lot, determined to work industriously and roam no more. A MINING FLUME Adventures in the Mines. VI. My journey through the mountains had given me a taste for travel, and I soon tired of mining and sold my claim for $1,800, and concluded to try pack ing. As all supplies were brought on pack animals, this was a lucrative business, and I figured my profits by the thousands, and again expected to be able to go home in the fall, and exhibit my gold and tell of my adventures and quietly settle down among my Webfoot brethren. These thoughts cheered me as I enlisted a few vicious mules and sinful cayuses under my banner, and endeavored to discipline them to the art of carrying flour and bacon, picks, shovels, etc., upon their backs. It so happened that none of them had ever been packed, and all of them were determined they never would be. The antics they cut when turned loose with packs upon their backs was a menagerie worth seeing, but after tiring them selves out, they submitted and were driven along quietly, but wearing a very dejected look. There 128 STORIES OF OLD OREGON is something pathetic in seeing a fine horse reluc tantly yield his sovereignty and submit to a life of drudgery. I made several trips from Lewiston to Elk City and Oro Fino, realizing fair profits, but falling far short of my expectations. The mining season was again drawing to a close, and when the mountain tops were whitened by the early snows, the miners began to leave the chilly gulches and seek more comfortable winter quarters. For the last time I bid adieu to Elk City, the place of my first mining operation, and again started on my way to the land where red apples were being gathered, and red-cheeked girls were watching from rude doorways for the return of the gold hunters. At the Cold Springs, on Camas Prairie, we inter cepted the line of travel from Florence. Some were loaded down with gold, but many were poorer than when they came. Several of those we met had been robbed by highwaymen, having gone through the trying ordeal of looking into the open end of a shot gun while their pockets were being rifled. This species of speculation was carried on by day and night, and had become so common that it was difficult for one to get through from Florence with gold dust, unless accompanied by a strong guard of armed men. As we arrived at Lewiston, the Walla Walla stage drew up, guarded by six ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 129 horsemen, and carrying as prisoners Dave English, Nelson Scott, and Billy Peoples. They had been tak ing purses right and left along the road between Lewiston and Florence, and were considered three of the worst men in the whole mining region. Their latest exploit was to rob an old friend by the name of Berry. They were not masked, and Berry knew them quite well, and protested against their robbing an old acquaintance. They took about $6,000 from him. Dave English remarked that "dead men tell no tales." Berry thought his last hour had come, but owed his life to the generosity of Scott, who said : "No; he is a good man; we will not kill him, al though we may hang for taking his money." They bade him good-bye, and trusted to the fleet- ness of their horses to escape the pursuit which they knew would be made. The robbery took place on White Bird creek. The three men rode together until they were some distance below Lewiston, when they separated, Scott and Peoples going to Walla Walla, while English headed his now tired horse toward Wallula. Meanwhile, Berry was not idle, and this time revenge was swifter than self-preser vation, for when English, in the early dawn, rode across the sandhill to Wallula, Berry, looking from a window, saw him coming and quickly made prep arations for his reception. He dismounted and 130 STORIES OF OLD OREGON entered the saloon where his victim and others awaited him. He was asked to take a drink, and as he reached the bar he was confronted with a shotgun. Glancing around, he saw a pistol at each ear, while the muzzle of another gun touched the back of his head. Resistance would have been cer tain death, and all men shrink from that. He smiled as he said: "Well, boys, you played it pretty fine, but let us have a drink before the irons are put on me." The irons came first and then the drink, in which Berry joined, in honor of the occasion, no doubt re membering his prisoner's significant remark when last they parted. Scott was taken at Walla Walla, and Peoples was taken somewhere in that vicinity. English, with his parents, was for many years a resident of the lower part of Benton county. He devoted his time to drinking, horse racing, fighting, etc., and was known as a reckless man. Scott lived in the upper part of Linn county. He was a generous light-hearted man. He was married to a beautiful girl, but became addicted to drinking, and went steadily down until the irons were upon his wrists. Scott and English were both large, handsome men, but Peoples was a little black imp about four feet high, who looked the villain that he was. A little ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 131 chip cast off in Nature's mint, just large enough to receive half the stamp of man. He came to Oregon with Marshall's circus, the first one which had ever exhibited here, and had been a drunkard all his life. As has been said, they came under guard to Lewiston, on their way to Florence for trial. But they had many friends who determined to set them at liberty without the ceremony of a trial. The whole whisky element of the town was enlisted in their cause. It is strange how drink will level rank and bring the high born down to stand with thieves and robbers. Marshall, the old showman," was there, and headed the crowd to take the prisoners from the guards. Then the better element of the city arose to throw itself around the jail and stand be tween the prisoners and their reckless friends. It was a dark and chilly night, and those who stood with arms in hand and listened to the frenzied shouts of the wild mob as it ranged the town, firing shots and drinking on to wild insanity, will not soon forget their impressions nor the temperance lecture thundered forth by those wild orgies. From time to time, reports of the coming of the reckless crowd of revellers were brought to the guards, who were lessening in number, as timid men crept away to avoid what seemed to be an inevitable conflict. Still, about fifty determined men stood 132 STORIES OP OLD OREGON around the little shanty where the prisoners were anxiously awaiting the coming of their friends, who, they felt sure, would release them. One half the night had worn away, when Mar shall, growing impatient, came down upon the guards alone. It was pitch dark, and on the damp ground his footfalls made no sound. Suddenly a bright flame shot forth, followed by another, and two men lay wounded on the ground. Although the men had stood for hours with pistols in their hands, peering through the darkness to find a foe, they seemed to be taken by surprise, and for a moment no one returned the fire. Then, as Mar shall's outline was discovered in the darkness, a single pistol cracked and he fell, but recovered him self and ran away before another shot was fired. Then all the latent fury of patient men broke forth. The prisoners were told that they must die. English and Peoples begged for mercy, but Scott made no appeal. Taking a ring from his finger, he quietly asked that it might be taken to his wife, and then, doubling up his chains, he dealt blows right and left, with desperate might and almost superhuman energy. The night wore on, and still the robbers' friends were drinking. And when morning came the guards were gone, and stillness reigned about the jail. All ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 133 "but the revellers knew what this meant, and when they ventured to look, they found the three men hanging to the low joists of the little building which had served as their jail the night before. Marshall and the men he shot recovered; the roughs sought other scenes, and for a time Lewiston was quiet. Many people are opposed to hanging men under any circumstances except after due process of law, but this action of the Lewiston people was induced by peculiar and aggravating circumstances, and was applauded by the best element of the community. As for myself, I was thankful that I had escaped be ing robbed, shot, or hanged, and went on my way rejoicing that it was my Webfoot brethren instead of myself, over whom a post mortem examination was being held. This reminds one that our opinion of mob law is likely to be influenced by the ques tion of who is to be hanged. At Walla Walla I received news from home which did not please me very well. I was not pleased at all; in fact, I was disgusted. The first thing I did was to take a walk; this did not relieve me, and I came back and took a ride. Feeling no better, I went down town and got into a fight. My antagonist was severely punished, but still I grew worse. When I reached camp my companions were asleep. I built up a large fire and sat down and whistled a few 134 STORIES OF OLD OREGON tunes ; then I tried a song. I sang all the old songs I knew. "Music hath charms to soothe the savage beast," and after a while I grew calm and composed a few lines of pacific poetry. Here are a few verses : Come Satan's muse and breathe a spell In concord with these thoughts of mine; Come forth, ye savage wits of hell, And set hell's music to my rhyme. For I have loved and all in vain; Have felt its bitter pangs full deep, And in my soul there is a pain O'er which the demons well might weep. I wrote some twenty verses in this quiet strain,, and finally finished with this : Time may try in vain to heal Wounds which laugh to scorn his art, Try in vain the pulse to feel, Which throbs around a broken heart. I went away from camp so I could not be heard by my excited companions, and repeated the lines I had composed, until my soul grew calm; then I ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 135 came back, and by the light of the fire wrote the fol lowing : Breathes there a woman 'neath the skies Who dares to say she loves a man? Deep in her throat the vixen lies — Man only loves, man only can. The remainder of the night was passed in similar musings. In the morning I saddled my horse and rode into the hills to contemplate the situation. I was going through the most trying ordeal of a young man's life. It was strange I was not dis turbed. I contemplated my equanimity, and felt proud that nothing could disturb my serenity of mind. I spent the day among the hills, shooting at badgers and prairie chickens, and returned at night with my mind filled with the nebulae of grand reso lutions. They were so indistinct that I could not discern what form they were likely to assume, but I felt a distinct presentiment that I was destined to ride on the topmost crest of something. I racked my brain to find out what this should be. I thought a first-class desperado would attract 'at tention and make the world tremble. I was a good shot, and knew many people I would like to kill; 136 STORIES OF OLD OREGON but this kind of amusement had its drawbacks. I had been on the frontier long enough to learn that even there "the way of the transgressor is hard." Then I thought I would be a missionary and de vote my life to converting the heathen; but after thinking this over, I concluded not to devote my life any more, but to go to the Boise mines, spend the winter mining, and then hunt buffalo on the plains ; or to do battle with the warlike Sioux. I loaded my train with a general outfit of pro visions, and made my way over the Blue mountains to the Grand Ronde valley. Here I met William Brittain, an old friend and schoolmate, who per suaded me to camp until he had time to talk to me. He talked four days, at the end of which time I agreed to stay with him in the valley until spring. We located claims on the ground where Summerville now stands, built a comfortable cabin, and made preparations for a winter's stay among the immi grants who were settling up the land. One day I re ceived a letter which pleased me. I was very much pleased ; in fact, I was delighted. It proved that the news I heard at Walla Walla was false, and I aban doned all idea of hunting buffalo, turning desperado, or' being a missionary. I would run my pack train another season, sell out, and go home in the fall. In the meantime I heard of Thomas. Where was ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 137 he, and what had he been doing all this time? He has been neglected, slighted, and ignored, but not forgotten. Of course the reader has noticed this. The fact is, not being a novelist, I cannot write of more than one man at a time, and in this dilemma have been absolutely unable to tell of what Thomas did. But you shall know, Thomas had adventures. He has been cast down, and has been lifted up; he has fallen from grace, has rejoiced again. Hope's beaming eyes have looked upon wealth. Despair's leaden orbs have turned to a life of poverty, and over his life, as over mine, sunshine and shadow have held alternate sway. Our preparations for winter were scarcely com pleted when snow fell to the depth of two and one- half feet in the valley, while the mountains were covered with from six to ten feet, and all communi cation with the outside world was cut off. As soon as the snow settled so as to admit of sleighing, Wil liam and I extemporized a set of harness out of saddle cinches and bale rope, made a rude sleigh, harnessed up a couple of pack horses, and made a tour of the valley. Our intention was to find out what our resources for amusement and comfort were, and what kind of company we should have during the winter. In the north end of the valley near where we built our cabin, was a settlement 138 STORIES OF OLD OREGON of Scotch immigrants; they spoke very little Eng lish, and were nearly destitute of worldly goods, having exhausted their means in making the long journey overland from the East. Further south, on the west side, was an Iowa encampment, consisting of about sixty Iowans who arrived late in the fall and encamped for the winter in the same manner in which they were accustomed to on the plains. Here we found some very pleasant people, among whom were Doctors Paten and Boswell, afterwards known in the Willamette valley. Half a dozen log houses in the southwest corner of the valley formed the town of La Grande, and a straggling settlement confined to the foothills completed the circuit to our place of starting. The valley proper was almost entirely unoccupied. For some cause, the first set tlers of a country rarely ever select the best land — witness Oregon valleys. The foothills were mostly settled between the year 1845 and 1849, while much of the beautiful prairie was located in the '50s. This was true also of the Walla Walla and Palouse coun tries, of Powder River and Boise valleys, and I am told similar mistakes were made in the early settle ment in nearly all the country from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast. Our trip completed, we knew what our surroundings were, and prepared to have a grand time. Our neighbors were weary from their long jour- ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 139 ney, having been very gradually moved two thou sand miles by the slowest of all work animals — the ox. The patient ox ! He is very slow and very sure, but his race is run. He has hauled civilization around the earth. He started at the rising sun, with a stick across his brow, and traversed half his cir cuit with scarcely a pause; then waited patiently until the stick was unbound from his throbbing tem ples ; an easy yoke was placed upon his back ; waited until his masters learned to build ships and traverse oceans; then he came across the great waters and took up his line of march across the American con tinent. Faithful and true, in the new world as in the old, he has crossed our mountains, traversed our deserts, and at last has bathed his tired feet in the golden waters of the Pacific. His work is done ; we shall never hear from him again. Peace to his bones. William soon became a great favorite among the Scotch girls, who looked upon him as a prodigy of learning. He was, however, only educated at one end, being able to dance splendidly; but this answered all purposes. I was not anxious to make conquests myself, but took great pride in the way William seemed to capture young and old every where he went. After awhile, and without any premonitory symptoms, I found myself much court- 140 STORIES OF OLD OREGON ed, and could not account for it. The affection of the whole settlement seemed to be transferred to me. After William had suffered by being slighted for some time, and I had rejoiced in my new found popularity, we accidentally discovered the cause of the change. Just before the snow had fallen, I had brought fifty bushels of potatoes on my pack train from Walla Walla, and had them all nicely stored away, intending to put in a large crop in the spring. By some means, the people who knew about the potatoes being brought over, came to believe they belonged to William, and they were all courting him with a view to securing a few bushels for seed. After it became known that I was the sole owner of those potatoes, William was never mentioned again, and I enjoyed undisturbed my new and novel popu larity. The snow having melted away in the upper part of the valley, a number of packers came down on their return from Boise to winter. Then we had high times. Dances were given at the cabins alternately. The rooms were small, the floors were rough, and the fare of the rudest kind, consisting sometimes of only bread and meat. Yet I have never known dancing to be so recklessly enjoyed before nor since. The packers all danced with pistols in their belts,. ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 141 and the girls seemed to favor the one who was armed the most formidably and danced in the most extravagant manner. The first dance which we at tended was at a cabin near La Grande. The girls wore neat homespun dresses, while the boys re joiced in woolen shirts and blue denim overalls. The supper was something unusual, consisting of bread, bacon, cabbage and potatoes. Everything went on merrily until after supper, when some one came from town with a jug of whiskey. The drinking of this produced the same effect. which it always has since alcohol was distilled, and soon these dancers forgot they were brothers and that their sisters were with them, and engaged in. meaningless quarrels. Harmless words, which an. hour before would have produced a merry laugh,, were construed into deadly insults. Timid girls. forsook the company of those whom they had begun to trust and love, and huddled together in mortal fear of the very ones whom God has designed as their natural protectors. A fight was in progress, in which the flash of the pistol answered the gleam of the knife, and when the conflict ceased all joy was gone,; men lay bruised and bleeding, and one poor fellow, Joshua Goodwin, lay moaning with a bullet in his brain. When spring came and the grass began to grow 142 STORIES OF OLD OREGON again, I loaded my pack train for Placerville, Idaho. The route was along the old immigrant road most of the way, and I readily recognized the camping places at which we stopped in crossing the plains. How natural they looked; although ten years had passed. At Powder River valley I went to look for my mother's grave, but could not find it. The burning of the grass and sage brush had destroyed what marks we had left, and I could not locate the spot. I found Placerville a flourishing mining town, where I sold my cargo at a good profit. Money was plenty and prices good; so good, in fact, that I sold out my train and went to mining. Throughout the season I did very well, but was not content, and about the first of August prepared to go freighting again, having now sufficient money to give me a good start in the business. Hearing that some gov ernment mule teams were to be sold at Boise City, I went down there to see about them. Here I was much pleased to meet an old schoolmate, Dave Snell, a splendid and bright fellow, known far and near as the most daring young scamp in Oregon. He was just about taking the stage for home, and it was only an accident that I met him. However, he stayed another day to have a talk, and we took a room at the hotel together. Of course we had much to talk ADVENTURES IN THE MINES 143 about, but it was hard to talk of anything but the war. News was coming in every few days. Dave drew from his pocket a paper, and read to me some account of recent battles in which the name of Colonel Dobbins was mentioned. Dave laid the paper down, laughed, and said : "Of course you don't know how Captain Dobbins came to be called back East where he had a chance for promotion." "No," I answered, "never heard of him before. Who is he?" "If you think we have time enough for me to tell rather a long story," said he, "I will tell you how Captain Dobbins was promoted." Knowing Dave was a capital talker, and always engaged in some adventure, I insisted on his telling me the story. He told the following story: FACE ROCK, ON COQS COUNTY BEACH How Captain Dobbins Was Promoted. VII. Well, I came up here to mine, came with the first rush. I was not lucky enough to get a good claim on any of the creeks, but located a claim on a little gulch; so last spring found me digging away industriously in a little gulch one mile from Placer ville, Idaho. I had found a fair prospect, and for some time had great hopes of filling a good sized wallet before the season closed; but when I had gotten my claim open ready to work, the rain ceased, and my supply of water failed rapidly and was not sufficient to run the sluices. This was a sore dis appointment. There were strong reasons why I wished to make money enough to return to the Wil lamette valley and purchase a little farm, which, all unknown to the owner, I had been for the last two years converting into a modern farm of my own. In my imagination I had purchased this farm many times, always cash down, for I was resolved never to be in debt. In the same pleasant and easy 146 STORIES OP OLD OREGON way, every acre of it had been vastly improved. The spring beyond the garden was coaxed through a pipe, and bubbled from a polished faucet in the kitchen. The struggling grape vines were trained into an arbor leading from the gate to the front door. Fine blooded horses and cattle sported in the pastures, and flowers shed sweet perfume all about. I had also drained the marsh beyond the barn, and erected a neat little woodshed, with hop vines clustering about the eaves. These pleasing fancies were gen erally indulged in as 1 sat alone in my cabin when my day's work was done, and I had nothing else to do. My designs on this farm were kept strictly private. Only once, before leaving home, had they been told in a burst of confidence, to one who I trusted would sympathize with my hopes and en courage my daring ambition. I did not mistake her, as it seemed an easy thing to her for me to dig a little gold from the ground, return, buy as much land as we wanted, and make all improvements we might think necessary. Her trusting nature could not think it possible for me to fail in any under taking, and she immediately began to straighten up the little farm herself. Her first work was to pull down a crooked fence and burn the rickety woodshed. HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 147 It was wonderful how much better everything looked after she had talked five minutes. But that is another story than the one which I set out to tell you. It has not been mentioned by accident, nor because at this date it is still uppermost in my mind, but for the purpose of offering a palli ation, if not an excuse, for the part which I took in the promotion of Captain Dobbins. One day, about the first of June, I went up town for some provisions, scarcely knowing whether to return to work my claim or not. Placerville, as you know, is laid out with a plaza in the center. This plaza is about two hundred feet square and is a favorite place to exhibit horses, as well as to display horsemanship. When I arrived, a vicious Mexican broncho had just thrown its rider on the square, and another plucky fellow was pre paring to mount. He had scarcely touched the sad dle until he was sprawling on the ground, and the victorious horse ran back to his stable. He was again brought out, and a Mexican, a celebrated "Vaquero," placed his foot in the stirrup and swung himself gracefully into the saddle. This was a hard contest. It was Mexico against Mexico, and rider and horse played their parts well for some time. The Mexican rode for conquest, but the horse strug gled for liberty. At last liberty won, and the Mexi- 148 STORIES OF OLD OREGON can lay on the ground. A roar of laughter from the by-standers followed his fall, and no one seemed in clined to further contest supremacy with the wiry steed. I had been deeply interested in this struggle, and my blood had warmed in witnessing the courage and skill displayed by the Mexican, and did not feel like laughing at his fall. Being a horseman I knew how well he rode, and had noted the peculiar trick by which he had been thrown. When he arose with a badly sprained ankle, and was unable to mount again, I assisted him to the sidewalk and said : "If it will not offend you, I will ride that horse." A shout of derision greeted me from all sides. That settled it. I sprang into the saddle. The horse seemed to know that I was his master the moment I had touched the reins, and would have behaved quietly enough had I wished him to ; but it was not my intention to ride quietly around while a hundred miners were looking on, not one of whom believed that I could ride a horse which had thrown that Mexican. I therefore bullied the horse into re bellion and forced him to do his best, using every trick to make him jump, and jump he did, until he was thoroughly tired. The admiration of the crowd was won at last. Even the much discomfited Spani- HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 149 ard, standing on one foot, swung his "sombreo" and cried: "Much a buen, Senor." A leather "rieta" was done up in a neat coil and fastened to the croup of the saddle. This I undone and gave some exhibit of my skill with a lasso. Darting towards any object which offered a mark, I threw my rope upon it and performed various feats until the crowd gave me cheers to my heart's content. When I dismounted, a stranger inquired where I had learned to ride. "In Oregon," I answered. "Can all the boys ride that way in Oregon?" "Probably not, but all the young men can ride well and are not afraid of a wild colt." "Can you shoot a rifle and pistol?" With some pride I answered : "I have never been beaten with either." "What are you doing?" "Mining." "Have you a good claim?" "A good claim, but no water." "Ah! What are you going to do? You don't look like a man who would sit in his cabin and wait for it to rain." "I don't know. I may go prospecting." After a moment's scrutiny, in which he looked me 150 STORIES OP OLD OREGON over thoroughly, he said: "I should like to see your claim. May I go with you to your cabin?" As we walked along I had an opportunity to ob serve my strange companion. He was about 28 or 30 years of age, five feet ten inches in height, and weighed, as I afterward learned, 165 pounds. His hair and eyes were black and he was badly sun burned, which gave him a reddish brown color, near ly as dark as an Indian. He was decidedly a hand some fellow, with frank open countenance, but there was a daredevil look about him which made me wonder who he was. When we were seated in my cabin, he said : "Now I have asked a great many questions and, of course, you want to know why I have sought your acquaint ance. I learned from one of the miners while you were riding that your name is David Snell. My name is Bob Fitzhugh. I have been on the plains since I was a boy, and have sometimes acted as a scout for Uncle Sam. You may have heard of me. I have gone to scouting for my own command and like it much better than when under orders, especial ly as the troops recently sent to Idaho, know nothing about Indian warfare, and could not tell a war trail from a beaver slide. I am now hunting a partner. I can offer such inducements that there is no diffi culty in finding a man who is willing to become my HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 151 partner, but the kind of man I want is not found every day. For the last ten days I have been quietly observing the manners and habits of men about Placerville and have found some objection to all. Most of them chew tobacco, all of them carry jack- knives and three out of every four of them are whit tling whenever they are idle." I looked at my strange companion in surprise. What could he mean by this? What earthly differ ence could it make to him whether a man whittled or not in his idle moments ? He continued : "I don't want a man who chews tobacco, who car ries a jack-knife, and who cannot walk with his toes pointing straight ahead." I opened my eyes wide in astonishment. Was it possible this handsome keen looking fellow was a lunatic ? "My partner," he continued, "must be an extra ordinary man. He must be a crack shot with rifle or pistol; must ride like a Comanche and throw a rope like a Mexican Vaquero; he must not have a habit of talking loud, hallooing or singing; must be" able to dive or swim like a duck ; to endure cold, heat, and fatigue ; to exert himself three or four days without food and be able at all times to whip his weight in wild cats. I knew the moment you mounted that horse, you were the very man I was 152 STORIES OP OLD OREGON looking for. If you will go with me, we will make some money, and not have any hard work to do." "What kind of busines do you intend to engage in?" I asked. "Well, horse stealing," he laughed. With some dignity I answered: "You have made a mistake. I am not a horse thief." "Hold on until I explain. You know the Snake Indians are on the war trail ; they have been raiding the border for several years, and have stolen several thousand head of horses. They have never let an opportunity slip to murder or steal. It is no robbery to re-take stolen horses or to capture ponies belong ing to the Indians, when they are on the war trail. At the present moment, Uncle Sam is confiscating property belonging to the rebels whenever he can lay hands on it. Captain Dobbins, who is located at Fort Boise, has worn his cavalry horses out rac ing after the Snakes without taking a horse or killing an Indian. The citizens, thinking they could beat the regulars, have been out several times with no better success. Now I can do just what the others have failed to do. I can capture those horses." "But how do you expect to do this without any army at your back?" "I could never get a horse if an army was any where near me. I propose to go into the Indian HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 153 country, looking and acting just like an Indian, steal all the horses I can and then rush for the settle ments." "I can well understand how you would rush for the settlements if those Snake Indians were after you, but do not understand how you are to make a white man look like an Indian." "0! that's easy enough. I have made two trips and brought back horses both times. I have gone right among them without being detected. As for you, with a few strips of buckskin, some feathers and paint, I can make as good a looking young In dian of you as ever stepped in moccasins. I know every man cannot do what I can, no more than every man can ride a horse or throw a rope like you do. I know just what I am about and if you will go with me, and strictly obey my instructions we can make a lot of money. We will deliver the horses we take to the whites from whom they were stolen by the Indians, but we will charge them a round sum for re-taking them. I will furnish the entire outfit and we will divide all we make." The little farm, with all its new improvements, spread itself before my delighted eyes, and I had decided to go before he had ceased speaking. "All right," I answered, "when shall we start?" "I will return to Placerville," he answered, "to 154 STORIES OP OLD OREGON purchase supplies and will meet you on the public square tomorrow at noon." At the appointed time we started, mounted on good horses, and leading a third which carried our camp outfit. My mount was a splendid bay, whose natural beauty was enhanced by a silver mounted saddle and bridle. The cantenas held a pair of ivory handled navy Colt's pistols and a Henry rifle in a leather case hung from the pommel of the saddle. Once on our way, we traveled along at a swinging gait, taking the road toward Boisie City via Ban nock. After traveling about twenty miles, we struck a trail leading south toward Salmon Falls on Snake river. Following this trail, the second day out, we came to a sage brush plain. Here was nothing but sage, sand and alkali. Not a living thing crossed our path. We traveled for miles without even seeing a bird. Toward evening we came to the foothills, reaching down from our left. Here was plenty of grass and now and then a small pine tree. Sud denly a young antelope crossed our trail, going at full speed, though evidently fatigued, for its head was bent low and its tongue was protruding from its mouth. A single glance was sufficient to show that it was being hotly pursued by something. "Get ready to fight," said Bob, in a low, deter mined voice, as he drew his rifle from its scabbard. Our rifles were carried in such a manner as to be HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 155 of but little inconvenience. A loop held the breecn to the pommel of the saddle, while the barrel lay along the side of the horse, the muzzle pointing downward near his flank. The rider's left leg held the gun securely against the horse's side and it need not be touched with the hands unless when it was to be drawn from the scabbard. As I laid my hand on my gun to obey Bob's order, I looked in the direction from whence the antelope came. At that moment a large grey wolf, as large as a Newfoundland dog, bounded in sight, with his long, strong muzzle close to the ground. He was following the antelope with the unerring instinct of a trained hound, moving swiftly in "that long, low gallop which can tire the hound's deep hate, the hunter's fire." "Don't shoot, but try your horse on that fellow," said Bob. I had been trailing my rope on the ground to render it more pliable and easy to handle. My horse was eager for the chase. I gave him the rein, coiling my rope as I went. It was a splendid chase. Before the wolf had gone half a mile I was within a hun dred feet of him, holding my horse under tight rein, until we came to an open piece of ground where there was no sage brush to interfere, when I slack ened the rein and swung my rope. With a noble 156 STORIES OF OLD OREGON burst of speed, my bay sprung forward. The wolf could not respond and the rope coiled around his neck with a snap. He plunged like a salmon on a hook, snapping his jaws viciously. Knowing his teeth would cut like a knife, I finished him with a. shot from my pistol to save my rope. "That was well done," said Bob when I had over taken him, "it is not often one of those fellows is taken in that manner. How do you like your horse?" "Splendid. He is worth a thousand dollars." "Well, then I make you a present of him, so you are worth a thousand dollars more than you were when you started." Passionately fond of a horse, I was delighted with Bob's present. He was indeed one to be proud of and I had been planning to buy him ever since we started. "He is a thoroughbred," said Bob, "has been trained for the track and it is doubtful if anything in Idaho can overtake him. If either of us is out ridden by the Snakes, it will not be you." We were nearing Salmon Falls and could hear the dreadful roar of the river as it leaped from its granite bed to be dashed to pieces on the rocks sixty feet below. Here we turned north and traveled until midnight, when we camped in a little valley where the grass was knee high. Before it was fairly HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 157 light I could hear the splash of trout jumping in the water. I was soon dressed and after securing a bit of fresh beef, which we had brought with us, I baited a hook, took the first stick I found for a rod, and made my way through the tall grass until I came to a little stream, about six feet wide. Here the speckled beauties were making a breakfast of some early insects which were hovering about the water. Cautiously my hook was dropped below the swarm of flies. I did not wait for a bite. Never did I have such fishing. They fought for my bait like chickens for a pan of dough. In five minutes I had enough for breakfast. At this place, on his last trip, Bob had left some horses and here we left ours. I was afraid I would. never see my beautiful bay again, but Bob said we were much safer on foot, so we cached our camp out fit as securely as we could, hanging our provisions in the bushes out of reach of wolves, then we prepared to assume our disguise. With brown paint mixed with oil, we painted our bodies, rubbing thoroughly from head to heel until not a vestage of white skin remained in sight. Beaded moccasins supplanted our boots and fringed buckskin leggins, reaching to our knees, took the place of our pants, while a calico shirt, descending to the waist, supplied our upper clothing. Bob's hair was long, reaching to his, 158 STORIES OP OLD OREGON shoulders. He had worn it braided and fastened on top of his head. After he had lossened it, he handed me a wig made in some ingenious manner out of the hair from a horse's tail. It fitted me nicely, and after a few stripes of vermillion paint were added to my face, Bob declared my costume was complete. I had been so occupied with my own dressing that I had not noticed Bob's progress. As he now stood before me, I laughed so loud that he looked around with apprehension lest I should bs heard by some foe. When he handed me a small mirror and my eyes were turned upon myself, I roared with uncontrolled laughter. Talk of Dr. Jeckel and Mr. Hyde ! They could not hold a candle to Bob and me. It was really wonderful what a change we had made. We were transformed from a couple of good looking young fellows into a couple of Snake Indians, and devilish ill looking Indians at that. Bob's transformation especially was complete. His own mother could ndt possibly have known him. His handsome features had undergone a complete re-arrangement and their combined effect was some thing truly appalling. When he looked at me, I involuntarily reached for my gun and could scarcely escape from the impression that he was about to scalp me then and there. "Now," said he, raising his tomahawk hand im- HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 159 pressively, "there are a thousand things you must learn before we are safe from detection. You are no longer a white man, you are an Indian. You look like one and you must act like one. An Indian does not walk with his toes turned out but points them straight ahead; he carries his gun mostly in his hand, resting his arm to his elbow, never on his shoulder; when in motion he is the very picture of stealth. He may be known from a white man when walking or riding a mile distant. He neither walks, rides, eats, drinks or sleeps like a white man; and when he dies, he seeks a secluded spot like a dog. Inferior to us in most respects, he nevertheless has his strong points. He is the shrewdest detective in the world; he will follow a trail for days which no eye but his can see. You cannot make a mark or slight scratch on the ground, over which he roams, but he will understand how, when, and for what purpose it was made. Constant danger has rendered him acute. His eye searches for danger signals as a hawk for prey. He suspects everything but noth ing so much as a white man. He will glance over a deserted camp, tell when the fire was kindled, when it went out, how many and what kind of people camped there and how they cooked; where they came from, where going and what was their busi ness. He will know how they were mounted, armed 160 STORIES OF OLD OREGON and how much provisions they carried. Once, when employed by the government, I scouted with a Warm Spring Indian. We came to a place near the head of the Malheur river where some travelers had camped. I looked the spot over and said, 'Two Indians camped here to cook their dinner yesterday.' The Indian shook his head and said, 'Siwash wake mitilite cit- cum sun,' — Indians don't stop at noon. Then he pointed to where a bucket of water had been thrown on the ground. The impression was plain to be seen but the water had all sunk away and the ground was parched and dry. I corrected my remark by saying, 'Yes, it was day before yesterday, but I think it was Indians camped here. See they made a little fire.' He rejoined, 'Wake Siwash, Uckook Boston man mitilite copa uckook illehee,' — no In dians. They were white men who camped here. Then he stooped to pick up a small, fine-cut shaving which had been cut from a willow stick, such an one as only could have been made with a sharp, fine edged knife, by some one whittling carefully. As I still looked incredulous, he next plucked a blade of grass with a dark stain upon it and held it before my eyes in triumph. The stain was made by tobacco juice. I yielded. Indians never carry pocket knives or keep a smooth edge on their butcher knives ; they never chew tobacco and are seldom seen to whittle HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 161 with any kind of a knife. I told the scout he was correct. They were probably a couple of prospectors. He went to a large rock, a few feet from the camp and called my attention to impressions made in the dust by the butts of two guns, such guns as are used in the army, not such rifles as prospectors carry. I was beaten again but when the scout said, 'Uckook mysika tilicum, clatawa nanitch Siwash. Lacket sun nanitch copa Salmon Falls,' — They are scouts, our friends. In four days we will see them at Salmon Falls. I was completely nonplused but concluded to say nothing but wait for developments. On the fourth day we camped at Salmon Falls and had the pleasure of meeting two of Uncle Sam's scouts who verified the Indian's predictions in every particular. I tell you all this," continued Bob, "that you may know something of the kind of people we have come to deceive. But I have learned many things since I made that trip and feel certain we will win. It will take you years to learn all these things. The best plan is for you to follow me and act as near like I do as you can. We are going directly into the Snake country. I speak the language of every red scamp between here and the Missouri river. If we meet any one, white or red, let me do the talking." Our cartridges and provisions were in small buck- 162 STORIES OP OLD OREGON skin pouches swung under our left arms. Neatly coiled in the bottom of these pounches lay our rietas. Lastly, throwing our blankets across our shoulders and taking our rifles in hand, we started. Bob talked but little. He stalked along with a dignified silence and stoical demeanor which would have delighted the renowned chief, Big Thunder himself. He seemed to scorn the earth and all upon it, not deign ing to notice me except on rare occasions. I verily believe he was trying to imagine he was an Indian in order to more readily pass for one in case occasion required it. His whole demeanor was changed with his color. This conduct annoyed me not a little. I could see no necessity for all those Indian airs while we were alone in the mountains and supposed at the time they were intended to impress me with his import ance as a scout. I came to know later Bob was a natural actor, if ever one was born, and always when playing a role, played it to perfection. He walked along, perfectly at his ease; his straps, strings, moccasins and paint fitting him to perfec tion. As for myself, I was very uncomfortable. I had great difficulty in keeping my pieces of buckskin in place. Some string was constantly coming un done, then I would kneel or sit down on the ground and wrestle with them in a manner which must HOW CAPTAIN DOBBINS WAS PROMOTED 163 have resembled a squaw digging kous or picking strawberries rather than a warrior adjusting his apparel. In spite of my annoyance I was forced to laugh many times at the utter ridiculousness of the whole proceeding. Bob's actions continued to remind me so forcibly of a bloodthirsty Indian that I sometimes fancied he might be at any rate a half breed, bent on some kind of mischief towards me. I knew this was a foolish thought and tried to banish it, yet it would stay uppermost in my mind, some times varying its horror by whispering I was alone in the mountains with an armed lunatic. On the second day from camp, Bob asked me if I could not walk with my toes turned in a little more. This I endeavored to do but it became very tiresome and gave me pain in the knees. Once, when we were going down a hill covered with grass, so we made no tracks, I threw my toes out nearly at right angles to the course I was going and walked along to get a rest. This was too much for my Indian, and he laughed for the first time in two days. After this I was more resigned to his company and went for ward more cheerfully. After four days travel, we were about one hun dred miles above Salmon Falls, well into the Snake country but none had been seen. Bob became more cautious every hour. He had a good field glass with 164 STORIES OP OLD OREGON which he scanned the surrounding country for dust, smoke or other signs of the savages. Our camps were model Indian camps in every particular; the fire was small and built of sticks broken short and set on end ; no scraps of food was left scattered about except some small pieces of dried venison, salmon and kous, which were brought along for that pur pose. On starting in the morning, a feather from Bob's head dress would fall near the fire where his moccasin tracks were plain to be seen. Had an Indian passed that way, he would have seen where a couple of his brethren had camped and nothing more. Had we left a biscuit, a piece of bacon, cigar-