LeSOO
WC73

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

.tect "by TI Jlocxai.

"i Ivy J '?:X-:-'r;in.

«** '^ £^-z^?^?^^/

FOBLISHED BY J. SNOW, PATEIUTOS'.nSB. EOW

A NARRATIVE
OF
MISSIONAKY ENTERPRISES

SOUTH SEA ISLANDS;

REMARKS UPON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS, ORIGIN, LANGUAGES,
TRADITIONS AND USAGES OF THE INHABITANTS.

BY THE REV. JOHN WILLIAMS,
OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY.-

TWENTY-FOURTH THOUSAND.

m^^^&^W^m' ys*^X-- 2 .

" And the idols he shall utterly abolish.''— Isaiah ii. 18. (See page 30.)
ILLUSTRATED WITH
A PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR AND ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY JOHN SNOW, 35, PATERNOSTER ROW.
,1840.

LONDON
Printed by W,ll,am Clowes and Sows,
Stamford Street.

hytSoo

TO THE KING.

May it please your Majesty,
It is with feelings of the highest satisfaction that I avail myself of the permission
graciously afforded me to dedicate this work to your Majesty.
Your Majesty's illustrious Family has especial claims upon the gratitude of the
friends of Missions for the fostering countenance it has uniformly extended to their
operations. The Society with which I have the honour to be connected enjoyed from
its commencement, in the year 1795, the gracious approbation of your Majesty's
Royal Father ; and the Directors were allowed to dedicate to him the first Narrative
of their labours among the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands. Your Majesty's
Royal Brother, when on the throne of these realms, graciously signified His attach
ment to the objects of the Society, by an act of princely munificence, and by per
mitting the Journal of their Deputation to he published under his auspices.
Since the accession of your Majesty to the throne, the readiness evinced by your
Government to aid the benevolent design of Missions to the heathen, induces the
assurance that your Majesty cherishes sentiments in perfect unison with those ex
pressed by your august Predecessors.
It is, therefore, with grateful confidence that I accept the permission, so graciously
afforded, to inscribe this Work to your Majesty. I trust it will be found that the
facts it records are not unworthy of the attention, as I am persuaded, the object it
seeks to promote is not unworthy of the patronage, of the enlightened Sovereign of
the greatest nation upon earth.
I embrace this public occasion to assure your Majesty, on behalf of my brethren
as well as myself, that, although removed to the antipodes, the Missionaries in the
Islands ofthe Pacific Ocean cherish a loyal affection for your Person and Government,
and feel as lively an interest in the welfare of their native land as any of your Majesty's
subjects ; and that, in prosecuting the one great object to which their lives are con
secrated, they will keep in view whatever may promote the Commerce and the Science,
as well as the Religious glory, of their beloved Country.
Offering the dutiful homage of my devoted coadjutors and myself to your Majesty,
I have the honour to subscribe myself,
Your Majesty's
Obliged servant, and loyal subject,
JOHN WILLIAMS. a 2

PREFACE.

While the Author of the following pages has endeavoured to compose a volume that
will be generally interesting and instructive, and to publish it in a form at once cheap
and elegant, his principal design has been to secure a permanent record of facts, to
which history can furnish but few parallels. In the prosecution of his task, however,
the Author has experienced difficulties which he did not anticipate at its commence
ment. Having travelled a hundred thousand miles, and spent eighteen years in
promoting the spread of the Gospel, he has gathered a mass of materials, from which
he could have composed many volumes with greater ease than one ; and his chief
difficulty has been so to select, compress and arrange his facts as to form out of them
a continuous Narrative, in which the details should be given with as much brevity
as would consist with faithful description. It would have been comparatively easy
to have filled the volume with general statements, instead of descending to minute
particulars ; but mere outlines and sketches could convey a very inadequate impres
sion of the state of society and the progress of Christianity among the people for
whose welfare he has laboured. He has therefore endeavoured as exactly as possible
to describe the scenes he has witnessed as they appeared to himself, and to give upon
the pages of his narrative a cast of the images and impressions which exist in his
mind. With this view, he has preserved the dialogues, in which much of his know
ledge was obtained, and has not spoken for the natives, but allowed them to speak
for themselves. In doing this, he has carefully avoided the use of terms and phrases
which are current among nations more advanced in the scale of intelligence and
civilization, and -the employment of which might lead the reader to form a higher
estimate of the state of society in the South Sea Islands than facts would warrant;
and he has been equally careful to convey native ideas in the phraseology and under
the figurative garb in which they were expressed. This he has been enabled to do,
not only from an intimate knowledge of the habits of thought and modes of com
munication with which they are familiar, but more especially from the circumstance
of his having kept a minute record of most of the interviews and events which the
following pages describe. In a word, the Author has endeavoured to take his reader
with him to each of the islands he has visited ¦ to make him familiar with their
chiefs and people ; to show him what a Missionary life is ; and to awaken in his mind
emotions similar to those which successively filled his own.
In the course of the Narrative, but more especially in the concluding chapters, some
observations will be found upon the origin, structure, and productions of those lovely
islands at which the Author has resided. As, however, his days have been
devoted, not to the study of geology, nor to the pursuits of the naturalist, but to
the work of a Missionary, the curious and scientific must not censure him for
contributing to their stores so small a portion of information. While he would not
underrate the talents, the diligence, and the discoveries of those who have chosen for
themselves such paths, he always felt that he had a much nobler work to perform.
Still he hopes that the facts he has presented will throw some light upon the forma
tion, the natural history, and the botany of those isles of the Pacific ; and, should the

PREFACE.

providence of God permit him to revisit the scenes of his former labours, and to ex
plore others on which the eyes of a Christian Missionary never rested, he purposes to
make observations, and to collect specimens to a very much greater extent than before.
To two points, especially, he intends to devote some attention. In the first place,
he will endeavour to gather from those comparatively unexplored fields of botanical
research a complete hortus siccus ; and, in the second place, to make a variety of
experiments upon corals and coral formations, for the purpose of ascertaining the
mode of their construction, and the rapidity of their growth.
While it is cheering to observe the triumphs which the cause of Missions has
gained, not only abroad, but at home, and the high estimate in which Missionary
exertions are now held by many who a few years since despised and decried them,
it is yet to be lamented that there are few of the wise and the noble amongst us who
countenance and contribute to the work. To what can this be ascribed ? Not surely
to anything in the Missionary enterprise which could dishonour or degrade those
who identify themselves with it. Regarded in the lowest view in which it can be
considered — as an apparatus for overthrowing puerile, debasing, and cruel supersti
tions ; for raising a large portion of our species in the scale of being • and for intro
ducing amongst them the laws, the order, the usages, the arts, and the comforts of
civilized life — it presents a claim, the force and obligation of which every one who
makes pretensions to intelligence, philanthropy, or even common humanity, ought
to admit ; and, if evidence in support of this claim be demanded, the Author ven
tures confidently to assert that it will be found in the following pages. This, how
ever, is taking but low ground. The Missionary enterprise regards the whole globe
as its sphere of operation. It is founded upon the grand principles of Christian
benevolence, made imperative by the command of the ascending Saviour, and has
for its primary object to roll away from six hundred millions of the race of Adam
the heavy curse which rests upon them ; — to secure their elevation to the dignity of
intelligent creatures and children of God * — to engage their thoughts in the contem
plation, and to gladden their hearts with the prospects, of immortality •— to make
known " the way of life " through the meritorious sufferings of the Redeemer; — in
a word, " to fill the whole earth with the glory of the Lord." Surely, to be iden
tified with such an object must confer dignity on the highest stations, and throw
lustre around the most brilliant talents. If, then, there be nothing in the Mission^
ary enterprise to account for the indifference of the more opulent and literary of our
countrymen, but everything to condemn it, we are led to the conclusion that such
a state of things must be ascribed to the circumstance that the important subject has
not been brought sufficiently under their attention. The Author scarcely indulges
the hope that a Narrative with so few pretensions to literary excellence will meet
the eye of those to whom his remarks refer, but he would ardently desire that they
might be induced to ponder the facts which his pages record; persuaded that, if not
altogether insensible to the claims of God and man, they would be led thereby to
honour and support the institutions whose imperishable names will fill one of the
brightest pages of history, and live amongst the purest and best recollections of " the
spirits of just men made perfect."
The candid reader will throw the mantle of kindness over the numerous defects
which may appear in the execution of his work, when he recollects that the greater
portion of the Author's life has been devoted either to active labour, or to the study

PREFACE TO THE FIFTH THOUSAND.

of uncultivated dialects, the idiom, abruptness, and construction of which are more
familiar to him than the words and phrases — the grace and force of his native tongue.
He has aimed at nothing beyond furnishing a simple and unadorned narrative of
facts; and, did he not believe that the interest of these facts would compensate for
every deficiency, he should have shrunk from the position which he has been induced
to occupy.
The Author has availed himself of the kind assistance of the Rev. Dr. Reed, of
London, and the Rev. E. Prout, of Halstead, to both of whom he is indebted for
many valuable suggestions.
In conclusion, the Author would commit this volume to the blessing of that God,
the wonders of whose Providence, and the triumphs of whose Gospel, he has endea
voured to record. After a life so marked by the Divine favour, he " could not but
speak the things which he had seen and heard ;" and, whatever reception may await
his volume, he will rejoice in its publication, and close his earthly existence with the
delightful satisfaction of having discharged a sacred obligation, by recording facts
which alike redound to the honour of God and illustrate the power of his Gospel.

PREFACE TO THE FIFTH THOUSAND.
In introducing to the Public, at this early period, the fifth thousand of his Nar
rative of Missionary Enterprises, the Author avails himself of the opportunity thus
afforded of acknowledging, with feelings of lively gratitude, the encouraging appro
bation with which his Volume has been so generally received. To many Noblemen,
scientific and other Gentlemen, as well as to several Dignitaries and Clergymen of
the Establishment, he is under great obligations for the opinion they have been
pleased to express of the merits of his Narrative. To his own brethren in the
Ministry, as well as to Ministers of other denominations, the Author would tender
his thanks for their kindness in recommending the Work to the people of their respec
tive charges. He begs, also, to present his grateful acknowledgments to the Editors
of a number of highly respectable literary, scientific, and religious Periodicals, and
also to the Gentlemen conducting most of the leading Journals of the day, for the
very favourable notice they have taken of his Volume. In preparing the present
Edition for the press, the Author has availed himself of the suggestions of several
of the Reviewers, and begs to express his high sense of the gentlemanly and Chris
tian spirit in which those suggestions were offered, especially those in the Monthly
Review. Commending his Volume once more to the blessing of God, and the patron
age of a kind and discerning Public, the Author again embarks upon an extensive
and arduous expedition, cheered by the assurance that he has a share in the prayers
and sympathies of British Christians, and entertains a pleasing hope that he shall
be privileged to see the inhabitants of many more islands turned from darkness to
light, by the transforming influence of the Gospel of Christ.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Page

A Mission to the Isles ofthe Pacific resolved
upon— The Voyages of CaptainWallis and
Cook — The hand of Divine Providence
recognized— The importance of the Mis
sion — The Duffs first Voyage — Account
of Captain Wilson — The Capture of the
Duff— Discouraging state of the Mission
— Extraordinary Circumstances under
which success commences . . . 1
CHAPTER II.
Geographical Description of the Hervey Is
lands — Geological Character of the Is
lands generally — Their Classification —
The Object for which, and the Spirit in
which, Knowledge should be sought —
On Coral Formations — Reefs and Islands
not the work of Insects . . 5
CHAPTER III.
Voyage to New South Wales — The remark
able Circumstances under which the Gos
pel was introduced at Rurutu — His Ma
jesty King George the Fourth remits the
Duty on the first cargo of Native Pro
duce — The Wreck of the Ship Falcon at
Rurutu — Honesty of the Natives — Ex
hibition of Idols — The Aitutaki Mission
commenced . . . .10
CHAPTER IV.
Mission to Aitutaki — Tradition about Ra-
rotonga — Voyage of Messrs. Bourne and
the Author — Success at Aitutaki — Our
Intercourse with the People — Informa
tion about Rarotonga — Search for it —
Papeiha's Narrative . . .15
CHAPTER V.
Papeiha's Narrative continued — Remark
able Incidents at Tahiti — Effect upon the
Aitutakians at seeing Lime burnt — Un
successful search for Rarotonga — Go to
Mangaia — Incidents there — Abandon it,
in consequence of the cruel Treatment of
the Missionaries' Wives . . 18
CHAPTER VI.
Visit to Atiu — Conversion of the King —
The Power of Scripture Truth— The Dis
covery of Mauke — Introduction of Chris
tianity into it and Mitiaro— Lord Byron's
Testimony — Regard to the Sabbath-day
by a Native Crew — Go again in search of
Rarotonga . . . .22

CHAPTER VII.

Page

Rarotonga discovered— Pleasing and dis
tressing Incidents there— Papeiha's de
voted Conduct — Conversation between a
Native Sailor and the King — Remark
able Account of a Heathen Woman-
Return Home— Exhibition ofthe Idols-
Native Speeches, &c. . . .26
CHAPTER VIII.
Mr. Bourne's Voyage— Accompanied by
Mr. and Mrs. Pitman, with Mrs. Wil
liams and Family, the Author sails for
Rarotonga — Dangers experienced in
landing — Idols delivered up — Chapel
erected— Writing on a Chip ; the Won
der it excited — Mr. Pitman's narrow
Escape — Books prepared in the Language
— A Sabbath at Rarotonga . .29
CHAPTER IX.
The Adoption of a Code of Laws by the
People of Rarotonga — To what extent a
Missionary should interfere in Civil Af
fairs — A Conspiracy, with its Results —
Difficulties at Rarotonga arising from
Polygamy and other Heathen Usages —
the Character of Works expected from
the Pen of a Missionary . , 33
CHAPTER X.
Mrs. Williams's Illness — She gives her Con
sent to the Author visiting the Samoa
Islands-^Resolve to build a Ship — Make
a Pair of Bellows — Deficiencies in Books
upon the useful Arts — The Rats eat the
Bellows — Make a Pair of Wooden Ones
¦ — Messenger of Peace completed — Voy
age to Aitutaki — The King accompanies
the Author — Return with a singular Car
go — Pleasing Incidents on our Arrival . 37
CHAPTER XI.
Mr. Buzacott's arrival — Receive Letters
from England from the Rev. Matthew
Wilks, &c. — Also from Raiatea — Charac
ter and Death of Tuahine — The Author
leaves Rarotonga — Useful Arts intro
duced among the People — Voyage from
Rarotonga to Tahiti — Makea's Return . 41
CHAPTER XII.
Papeiha's Narrative — Ideas of the People
on seeing him read — Arrival of his Col
league — Arrangements for increased Ex
ertion — The Success which attended

CONTENTS.

Page
their Efforts — Ludicrous Incidents with a
Cat — First Place of Worship erected —
War with the Heathens — The entire Sub
version of Idolatry at Rarotonga — War
at Raiatea — Accusations of Professor
Lee . . . . .45
CHAPTER XIII.
Tradition — How the Rarotongans first ob
tained their knowledge ofthe Europeans
— They pray to their Gods that Ships
may visit their Island — -A Ship, supposed
to be the Bounty, arrives — The Tides —
The unsoundness of Captain Beechy's
Theory — Peculiarities of Rarotonga —
Buteve the Cripple — Their Wars, Savage
Usages, &c. — Female Degradation —
Grades in Society, &c. — . . 51
CHAPTER XIV.
Mr. Piatt's Voyage — Intelligence from Ra
rotonga — The Vincennes and the Sering-
apatam arrive at Raiatea — Missionary
Meetings — Native Speeches — Interesting
Interview with Captain Waldegrave —
Preparations for our Voyage . . 56
CHAPTER XV.
Sail for the Navigators' Islands — Touch at
the Hervey group — Mangaia — Native
Service — War between the Christians
and Heathens — Usages of the Mangaians
in War — The Author's Advice solicited
on various Topics — Female Degradation
— New Chapel opened — Last Visit to
Mangaia — Remarkable Providence —
War prevented . . . .63
CHAPTER XVI.
Atiu — Religious Services there — Devoted-
ness of the Teachers' Wives — The Au
thor's narrow Escape — Distressing Situa
tion — Fishing Excursion — Superb Cavern
— Mauke and Mitiaro — A dreadful Mas
sacre — Rarotonga — An Epidemic rages
¦ — Aitutaki — Interesting Incidents — Na
tive Contributions . . .69
CHAPTER XVIT.
Leave Aitutaki — Savage Island — Difficulty
in obtaining Intercourse — Savage Ap
pearance ofthe People — Reach Tonga-
tabu — Cordial Reception by the Wesleyan
Missionaries — Account of their Labours
— Arrangement entered into with them—
A Sabbath at Tonga — Meet with Fauea
— Productions . . . .77
CHAPTER XVIII.
Hapai Islands — Volcanic Island — -Escape
Shipwreck — Finau's Despotism — A la
mentable Account of a Native Teacher
¦ — History of the Introduction of Chris
tianity at the Hapai Islands — The intrepid
Conduct of the Chief— Idols hung . . 81

CHAPTER XIX.
Sail for the Navigators — Fauea expresses
his fears about Tamafainga — Reach Savaii
— Astonishment of the Natives at seeing
Europeans — Tamafainga killed — Charac
ter of Fauea — Intercourse with the Na
tives — Most favourable Reception — The
War — Malietoa — The Author's narrow
Escape . . . . .85
CHAPTER XX.
An Interesting Meeting — Interchange of
Presents — Ceremonies observed on the
Occasion — A display of noble Feeling
between the two Brothers — A newly-
purchased Bride — Marriage Ceremony —
Female Degradation — Matetau — His
Person — bis desire for a Missionary — Re
marks — Fauea's Character . . 89
CHAPTER XXI.
Compelled by contrary wind to leave Sa
vage Island — Arrival at Rarotonga — Visit
to Arorangi — Beauty of the Settlement —
Arrival at Rurutu — Incidents there — Ar
rival at Tahiti — Visit to Afareaitu —
Meeting there — Vara's Character and
Death — Me— The Warrior and the Drop
of Blood . . . .93
CHAPTER XXII.
Distress at Raiatea — Tamatoa — His Cha
racter and Death — Sail again for Raro
tonga — New Chapel — Beautiful Appear
ance of the Settlement — Makea's Gene
rosity — Ancient Usages revived — The
Effects of a Discourse — A Hurricane —
Mrs. Buzacott's Distress — Mrs. Wil
liams's narrow Escape — A Thousand
Houses destroyed — The Island devas
tated  .97
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Messenger of Peace driven on Shore —
The Effect ofthe Hurricane upon the
minds of the People — The Death of our
Seventh Babe — More Disasters — A great
Feast — Singular Ceremony in apportion
ing the Food — Five Calamities — Value
of Ironmongery — TheMessenger of Peace
repaired and launched — Voyage to
Tahiti, &c  Evils of Ardent Spirits —
The Destruction of the Stills — Establish
ment of Temperance Societies — Return
to Rarotonga — Introduction of Horses,
Cattle, &c. .... 102
CHAPTER XXIV.
Second Visit to the Navigators — The Ava's
Prayer — Arrival at Manua — Salutations
of the People — Find some Raivavaians —
Orosenga and Ofu — The Desire every
where expressed for Missionaries — Sail
for Tutuila — Interesting Interview at
Leone Bay — The Author carried on
Shore — A Chief prays upon the Deck 
Runaway Sailors baptising the People 106.

CONTENTS.

Page
CHAPTER XXV.
Arrivalat Manono — Joy of Matetau — Reach
Savaii — Sabbath Services there — Malie-
toa's Address — Interview between Makea
and Malietoa — An important Meeting
held — Makea's Speech — Malietoa's Re
plies to the Author's Questions — The
Teacher's Narrative — Consultation with
the Teachers — Advice given upon various
important Topics — Snakes — Earth
quakes ..... 110
CHAPTER XXVI.
Visit to Amoa — A beautiful Settlement — A
Company of Female Christians — Their
Appearance — The Chapel erected by
themselves — Visit to Malava — Disagree
ment between Matetau and Malietoa —
An intelligent young Chief— Sail for Ma
nono — Curious Incidents on Board — Re
conciliation effected between the Chiefs 115
CHAPTER XXVII.
Runaway Convicts, &c. — Tragical Occur
rences — Retributive Justice — Two Ves
sels taken at Heathen Islands — Kindness
of English Captains — Meet with the
Widow of Puna — Her Narrative — Ship
springs a Leak — Danger to which we were
exposed — Vavau — Its Dreariness — Ar
rival at Tonga — Character and Labours
of the Wesleyan Missionaries — Reach
Rarotonga — Flourishing State of the
Stations and the Schools — The Ingenuity
of the Children in procuring Slates and
Pencils — Letter of one of the Children ] 1 9
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Discovery of the Samoa Group — French
Navigators — Names of the Islands — Kot-
zebue — Manua — Orosenga — Ofu — Tu-
tuila — Upolu — Manono — Aborima —
Savaii — Importance of the Group — Eligi
bility for a British Settlement — Soil —
Trees — Various Uses of the Candle-nut,
Bread-fruit, and Cocoa-nut Trees — Bo
tany of the Islands — M. Betero — Birds —
Vampire Bat — Snakes and Lizards — Fish
—Fishing— Turtle . . .125
CHAPTER XXIX.
Distinct Races of Polynesians — Islands in
habited by each Race — Malay Origin ofthe
Inhabitants of Eastern Polynesia — Rea
sons for this Theory — Three Objections
answered — Origin of the Inhabitants of
Western Polynesia doubtful — Conjectures
respecting them — Spiritual Condition of
the two Races — Physical Character of
the Eastern Polynesians — Superiority of
the Chiefs, with Reasons for it — Intel
lectual Capacities of the People — Opi-

Page
mons of themselves — Mental Pecu
liarities—Wit and Humour— Proverbs
and Similes — Ingenuity — Good Sense —
Eloquence — Desire of Knowledge — In
fluence of Rehgion upon the Intellect —
Appropriate Use of Scripture . . 130
CHAPTER XXX.
The two Languages of the South Sea
Islanders — The eight Dialects of the
Eastern Polynesians — Comparison of
each Dialect with the Tahitian— Tabular
View of the Differences between them —
Their Precision and Perfection — Nice
Distinctions in the Pronouns— Causative
Verb — Pronunciation — Introduction of
New Words — Government — Power of
the Chiefs — Punishment of Theft — Wars
— Their frequency — Weapons — Canni
balism not practised by the Samoans —
Amusements .... 136
CHAPTER XXXIV
Religion of the Polynesians — Difference
between the Superstitions ofthe Samoans
and the other Islanders — Objects of Wor
ship — Deified Ancestors— Dedication of
Children— the Christian and Heathen
Mother — Idols — Etus — Tangaloa —
Modes of Worship — Invocations — Muti
lations — Human Sacrifices — Occasions
for which they were required — Mode of
procuring them — Affecting Incidents —
Future State— Terms of Admission to
their Paradise— Cruel Rite of the Fljians
— Prevalence of Infanticide — Illustra
tions of this — Contrast between the
former and present State of the Children
— Scene at School Anniversary — Reco
very of a Daughter — Alleged Reasons
for Infanticide — Method of performing it
— Necessity for, andPower of, the Gospel 142
CHAPTER XXXII.
Providential Interpositions at the Samoas
— Rapid Progress of the Gospel — De
bates on the Subject — Native Arguments
— Extraordinary Preparations of the
People — Rarotonga — Striking Contrast
between its Condition in 1823 and 1834
— Recent Intelligence from Mr. Pitman
— Various Temporal Advantages of Mis
sionary Labours — Useful Arts, Animals,
— and Vegetable Productions introduced
into the Islands — Prospective Advantages
— Connexion of Christianity and Civili
zation — Commercial Benefit of Missions
— Safety to Shipping — Dangers to which
Seamen are exposed where there are no
Missionaries — Instances — Missions com
mended to the Statesman — The Philo
sopher — The Nobleman . . 148

FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE

LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

" As the union of Christians of various denominations in carrying on this great
work is a most desirable object, so to prevent, if possible, any cause of future
dissension, it is declared to be a fundamental principle of the Missionary
Society, that its design is not to send Presbyterianism, Independency, Episcopacy,
or any other form of church order and government (about which there may be
difference of opinions among serious persons), but the glorious Gospel of the blessed
God, to the heathen ; and that it shall be left (as it ought to be left) to the minds of
the persons whom God mav call into the fellowship of his Son from among them,
to assume for themselves such form of Church government as to them shall appear
most agreeable to the word of God."

In introducing this Volume to the public, I avail myself of the opportunity it
affords me to say, that, after twenty years' connexion with this Institution I have
never known its fundamental principle violated. I have never received any com
munication, either directly or indirectly, as to the mode of Church government that
I should adopt • nor am I aware that any of my coadjutors have. The only charge
given to me by the Directors of the Society was, to make known the way of salvation,
as consummated by the death of the Lord Jesus Christ.
JOHN WILLIAMS.

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

Page
Portrait of the Author.
Map .  1
Three Islands of different formations 6 — 7
Conveying the Idols to the Boat . . 17
An Idol, and the Snare for catching a God 18
Idols  31
Wooden Bellows  39
The Messenger of Peace, with her mat-
sails, &c. ...... 43
The Sugar Mill  44
Carved Adzes . . . . .69
The Boat upset at Atiu . . . .70
The Natives catch Flying-fish . . 72
Mrs. Williams and the Children going over
the Reef  73

An Idol suspended by its neck . ,
The Messenger of Peace off the Samoas .
Chapel and Scenery at Arorangi .
Interview at Leone Bay . , ,
The Messenger of Peace hove down
Mr. Buzacott's Residence . .
The Author's Residence . . ,
The Echinus .
The Mantis .....
War Weapons ....
Native Cap of Aitutaki . . . ,
Plate of various Articles of Native Manu.
facture .....
Portrait of Papeiha ...
Portrait of Makea ....

Page 8387
94
108122123124 ti.
129139140141150
151

130
iO B
I

id* • *

L30
tjritttditlflfpc ta'ampasZ
Jfcar.tl
.Pa.caro

Jlu. tines

160
J/Y£ Colwxas
1 ' SebasttatzZobes
Volcano * Zanura

ISO

ZeiskcrZ

150

_c»!r]30

ssashusscts J
>, -r 3unkerZ
. -McnZ,
\_JJisiansAvZ \

Jf.ua I,-,

tral - CkisperZ

o JJesia'in

>LiLi..iiia or
Link-nii--- Ls 7 (;t
-Ti

Jssti'ii/i{i/, ~/~
rjnan

tfodius I

iMglttftttt

Cooper!

Smith. £ ¦

4S*

ir./.

Egtoi I*

t-urnuvilq'

. iv-i.,n is p/,,1/,,,1 Jfaivns
S'.lu.l,.,,- (-. IMitanttx
fO/,J*-£ . 'r,.i<ltv.-nlsr<n.£

• rPigueUiq
-. rLinniticrrirk Sei

,1

£rm>m^f"CMtn'!! --(TcUnd.%
Xarwc 'Sr :AlUi Q,
r.i„i.r ,<,„»,.,„,/<
y.„,„, r *',w
^*<y,<. ^ -**»* MJ-dqrai'cJT
.\M,»,r>,kf ftcuthM,, T
/£¦/',- [ . ZW"Z
Z-hntwhrl Scarborowh.
<<"-* --, Rangfe6

, Johrisotis £
WatxZ

-dnixl

Jiarber S

JPahnyirtsir .Funia

¦n-L

! ^S*>

MnurvltyP "** J« ^.Newlrelaad
X"""#- '^|X>Sn|BCTae
—¦*=-¦- g=gg i/fttnwnond. *W

IlcasantI StarbtukC*\ Gx^p EqUStOT

Sard I

¦ Cardnerl

St^itqusiim

J&abell':

r„u.A.- ^".^

•^Cotxtrc

. I. Jesus
^Matteectze f

.Hertz I

Ciarencd-

, Gattdalcaiutr % ct Christ?- yai„
'.'„,. .-<;»¦ -i^RKi <** JZqmontS Ztdcpendaiec Sfihtnry
JBrmks.T WalUsZ 9 .Opotu
ITebwdes '

Frond sf
Z'ofjltvu/cr

7V ashinaten ~F
(Yay,\-/m,i.<. /
•JZireosZ • Sarah
- Starbitcfc
Je.uhvn

•rt fxo.huinc?.

£oH-J*

elim i

fTuons I JStTwnange

"Sm'thiftrvoo ,

Mcrwotht . xfiapai
JirttantucL Tonpatabool ' ',2:00a
• JTnntvrl j^ts&arts

Marqaj_'-ias olfotutttu
J tOML 0
A'uti'l^"" *2™*«*«
'jiii'' ^ftttvet
JTltntZ • ti&SociclT l» ._ , _
^jJ^V' „Dt.irtp/->omtrnentl
, illam"" ,ii'll,sV>
^* BSSSkhmX ralmcrstonl Uer> l;v o Jfuahuxo ,'A/.":<'r.'< • "''f,ric"' r^l( Scries J.

•Mot- -arrow

ScyUv /

J,-,,.-' «.-//„/.„

-Maretriiiga

*_3fatiai\. ^i"'1" " '-''"//rt? v. WlHfauuiavI
Murutn ¦ Osnnbitrtj ^
- 1 1 . / -. , t'coi-
JFtycawisZ
StJtum Baptista

j
'Hljshinnton ~
i
— j-C
)J

Martpota Jfii.j.ttOft "

Itavavaj;

A -Shod I
^hitfGarahia-I 1 Crcxceiit'.r

JUapa.

NAME NUMB" (SI.1?-? Slfl*PO^ t»0l*UL-; STATli M*?MtSSIONA»
Tahiti fcSoa'ctyZ right L&orioooo Chrism ninc.flnerteh Zotul'W Sec*
Sandn'ich right 0OOOO ( 'hristr,/n y7wcnty tiwcc ..4incriain
JMhrqucsas eight iAQOO tki,tf,et< tM-oJinqhsh /7ond'".WSccx'
Dct/iefAtdiipdagovetymany SmZ. 3 or I OOO mostly lluust'.1 .TSfotue L St S
^Austral!" /?.'-' .> oi"WOo Clwistutn J\redivc L.2Z. S
ITcncy [<* seven 16 erisooo Christian OroF.nyiJiN'otf L 31 S
yavigalors I4 ciphi 160.00O Partial^ aatst's^xJ-'.nej.LO.y. d; L M S
fen-cut u group S> or WOO Otrtsium Hi .English ( T\r ,
Jlapai tt (/roup Sor l-ooo Christian wtftifflitivc
Tonaatahoo WOOO Partial? Clirist'? Sssistwtts
Zi/i fi-omLtotoo teiy tyrvat Jfcadtcn. two Native
.Ut peyeial ut Jfcathcn Oarlcncss
.ybtf '/.coJanel Ctuavh and fVcsieyan Missiorutrv St.Jefy making great pmgrcxs
*i- Nttte vc^lsststa/t/s

Z)iu;es
JZ/U^cti,

lao

O/eup of Is -a

140

•ne iVeslcvetn

John Siietr, 35, Paternoster IRou
A NARRATIVE,

&. #<*.

CHAP'TER I.
A Mission to the Isles of the PaciDc resolved upon— the
Voyages of Captains Wallis and Cook— the hand of
Divine Providence recognised— Tho importance of the
Mission— The Duff's first voyage— Account of Captain
Wilson— The Capture of the Duff— Discouraging State
of the Mission— Extraordinary Circumstances under
which Success commences.
The venerable fathers and founders of the
London Missionary Society, after having aroused
the attention of the Christian public to the im
portant duty of extending the knowledge and
blessings of the Gospel, proceeded to the consi
deration of the very important and difficult
question, " In what part of the world they
should commence their work of mercy 1" The
late excellent Dr. Haweis, Rector of All Saints,
Aldwinkle, and Chaplain to the late Countess
of Huntingdon, who was one of the founders of
thS Society, the father of the South Sea Mission,
and among its most liberal supporters, was re
quested to prepare a " Memorial;' upon the
subject, which was delivered at Surrey Chapel.
In the course of his address, he says, " The
field before us is immense ! O that we could
enter at a thousand gates! — that every limb
were a tongue, and every tongue a trumpet, to
spread the joyful sound! Where so consider
able a part of the habitable globe on every side
calls for our efforts, and, like the man of Mace
donia, cries, ' Come over and help us,' it is not
a little difficult to decide at what part to begin."
The learned and venerable doctor then pro
ceeded, with all the warmth of his ardent and
cultivated mind, in a lucid and masterly style,
to draw a comparison between the climates, the
means of support, the government, the language,
and the religion of heathen countries ; and con
cluded that, of all the " dark places of the
earth," the South Sea Islands presented the
fewest difficulties, and the fairest prospects of
success. The result of Dr. Haweis's able advo
cacy was a unanimous resolution, on the part
of the Directors and friends, to commence their
mission among the numerous and far-distant
islands ofthe Southern Ocean; and, with the
exception of the estimate of the population of
Tahiti, I am astonished at the general correct
ness of his information.
Those great and good men appear to have
had the pleasing impression that they were
acting under the guidance of the Spirit of God ;
for one of their number, in his almost prophetic
discourse, after having enumerated the various
No. 1.

difficulties that had been overcome and the
numerous facilities that had been unexpectedly
afforded, says,* " Thus the providence of God,
in an unusual manner, seems to conspire with
the Spirit of God ; everything favours, nothing
impedes the design." Subsequent events, I
think, evidently confirm the correctness of this
impression ; for, from the very commencement
of the mission to the present day, the leadings
of Divine Providence have been remarkably
developed, and the interpositions of tbe Re
deemer's power both frequent and striking.
The discovery of so many beautiful islands just
before that wonderful period, when, amidst the
throes of kingdoms, and the convulsions of the
civilized world, a gracious influence was simul
taneously shed in so surprising a way on the
minds of thousands of British Christians, can
not fail to convince every thinking person that
the undertaking was of God. So great was
the liberality, that, in a short time, ten thousand
pounds were subscribed ; and such an amazing
spirit of prayer was diffused, as clearly indicated
that the Spirit of God was at work, and that
some mighty movement was about to take place -
for - the wider extension of the Redeemer's
kingdom. It was not until the year 1767, that Captain
Wallis, commander of his Majesty's ship Dol
phin, when crossing the comparatively untra-
versed waters of the Southern Pacific Ocean,
discovered the splendid island of Tahiti, which
has since occupied so prominent a place in the
annals of Missionary enterprise. Little did its
discoverer think, when hoisting the broad
pennant on the Tahitian shores, and taking
possession of the island in the name of his
sovereign, King George III., that in a few short
years the Missionary, sent by the liberality and
sustained by the prayers , of British Christians,
would follow in his track, search for the lovely
spot he had discovered, unfurl another banner,
and take possession of that and other islands in
the name of'the King of kings. This has been
effected under the guidance of Him
" Who plants Ius footsteps in the sea ;"
for the providence of God has evidently con
spired with the Spirit of God in the accom
plishment of this great work.
A year or two after the voyage of Captain
Wallis, Tahiti was visited by that truly great
* See a Sermon, liv the l*ev. T. Pcntycross, A. M.,
Vicar of St. M.iry, Wallingford. B

CAPTAIN COOK, AND THE INTEREST HE EXCITED.

man Captain Cook, whose name I never
mention but with feelings of veneration and
regret. His objects were purely scientific.
His first voyage was undertaken to observe
the transit of the planet Venus, the Royal
Society having represented to King George III.
that important services would be rendered to
the interests of science by the appointment of
properly-qualified individuals to observe that
phenomenon. The second was in search of »
southern continent, which, at that time, was a
favourite object of geographical speculation.
The third and last was to endeavour to find a
passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean.
By the important discoveries made in these
successive voyages, a new world was opened to
the view all of Europe ; for beside New Holland
and New Guinea, almost innumerable islands
were found to exist, bestudding the bosom of
the vast Pacific with their beauties.
The wonderful accounts published respecting
these newly-discovered regions very naturally
excited unprecedented and almost universal
interest. The climate was represented as most
salubrious : the cold of winter was never known,
and the heat of a tropical country was alleviated
by breezes from the ocean. The scenery of the
islands was represented as most enchanting :
their productions most wonderful: and the
manners and customs of the inhabitants as alto
gether novel and peculiar. The universal inte
rest excited by these representations is, therefore,
not a matter of wonder. The mind of the late
excellent Countess of Huntingdon was deeply
affected by the account of the inhabitants of
these interesting islands, and she was anxiously
desirous that the Gospel, with all its attendant
blessings, might be conveyed to them. I be
lieve her dying charge to her beloved chaplain,
Dr. Haweis, was, never to lose sight of this
object.* While we respect the enterprising spirit of
the philosophers at whose instigation the voyages
were undertaken, as well as admire the daring
and adventurous energy and skill of those indi
viduals by whom they were performed, we re
cognise the hand of One who is wonderful in
counsel and excellent in working; the move
ments of whose providence have ever been sub
servient to the triumphs of his Gospel; and
who, by all this work of preparation, just at
this particular time, was showing clearly to his
people that it was his intention that those far dis
tant islanders should be visited by the Gospel ;
that there the interesting experiment of its
power to ameliorate the condition of an ignorant,
barbarous, and demoralized race should be
tried ; that, by the triumphs it should achieve,
its moral energy should be demonstrated ; that
present and succeeding ages should see that the
Gospel alone was " mighty to the pulling down
of strongholds ;" and that there was, at least,
one means by which uncivilized nations might
be constrained to bless, rather than execrate,
the day when civilized men first landed on their
shores. To what else can we attribute such a
* The representations of Dr. Haweis, doubtless, pro
duced this impression upon the Countess's mind.

confluence of new and unparalleled circum
stances just at this period 1
Notwithstanding all that has been effected in
the Tahitian and Society Islands, in transform
ing their barbarous, indolent, and idolatrous
inhabitants into a comparatively civilized, in
dustrious, and Christian people, I never con
sidered this group alone as worthy the lives and
labours of the number of Missionaries who have
been employed there. It is only by viewing
the Tahitian mission as a fountain from whence
the streams of salvation are to flow to the nume
rous islands and clusters scattered over that
extensive ocean, that we can perceive it to be
worthy of the importance that has been attached
to it, or of the labour and expense which the
London Missionary Society has bestowed upon
it. To this mission, however, considered in its
relation to other islands, too much importance
cannot be attached ; for, in addition to
the numerous islands now professedly Chris
tian, there are, within a comparatively small
distance, many large and extensive groups of
which little is known. Among these are the
Fiji, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, Solo
mon's Archipelago, New Britain, New Ireland,
and, above all, the immense island of New
Guinea. This island is said to be 1200 miles
in length, and, in some parts, about 300 in
breadth. It is reported to be a most beautiful
island, rich in all the productions of a tropical
climate, inhabited by several millions of im
mortal beings, suffering all the terrific miseries
of a barbarous state, and dying without a know
ledge of God, or the Gospel of his Son. The
Fiji is an extensive group, said to comprise
from 100 to 200 islands, which vary in size from
five to 500 miles in circumference — all teeming
with inhabitants, in the most degraded and
wretched state of barbarism.
These various islands and clusters are inha
bited by distinct tribes, diverse from each other
in appearance and habits ; but principally by
those of the negro race. They are men of
immense stature, with black complexion, spread
ing noses, and crisped hair ; decidedly distinct
from those inhabiting all the islands to the
eastward, who are distinguished by their light
copper colour, Malay contenanc'e, and straight
hair. I sincerely hope that the London, or
some other Missionary Society, or the Societies
unitedly, will adopt some effective measures,
by which these extensive and inviting fields
may be brought under moral culture. It will,
no doubt, be attended with much danger, as ¦
some of the inhabitants are cannibals of the '
worst character ; others of ferocious habits and
cruel practices, using poisoned arrows, and
poisoning the very food they bring to sell, and
even the waterwhichis taken from their shores ;
whilst others are mild in their manner, and
kind in their treatment of strangers. The ad
venturous trader, however, braves all these
dangers ; and shall the devoted Missionary of
the Cross, whose object infinitely surpasses in
importance that of the merchant, and who pro
fesses to be influenced by motives of a highetf
order, be afraid to face them? Has he not the

FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE-CAPTAIN WILSON'S SUFFERINGS.

arm of Omnipotence for his protection, and the
promises of a faithful God for his encourage
ment? The places to which the Gospel has already
been conveyed from the Tahitian and Society
Islands, are the Sandwich Island group, 3000
miles to the north of Tahiti, inhabited by a
population of 150,000 souls;— the Austral
Islands, a group 400 miles to the south : — the
Paumotu, the Gambier, and the Marquesan,
to the eastward; — together with the Hervey,
the Navigators, and the Friendly Islands, to
the westward. These various groups are inha
bited by a population little short, I think, of
300,000 persons; the greater part of whom
have abandoned idolatry, with all its barbarous
practices, its horrid rites, and superstitious cus
toms. Their sanguinary wars have ceased ;
the altars of their gods are not now stained
with the blood of human beings offered up in
sacrifice ; and mothers have ceased to destroy
their innocent babes. Captain Cook and his
scientific associates little thought, when observ
ing the transit of the star, that in a few short
years the island on which they stood would
itself shine resplendent, like a bright speck in
the midst of the ocean, whence the light of sal
vation was to diverge in all directions over that
mighty mass of waters.
The fathers and founders of the London
Missionary Society began their labours upon
an extensive scale. They purchased a ship,
and sent out no less than twenty-five labourers
to commence missions simultaneously at the
Marquesan, Tahitian, and Friendly Islands.
The vessel returned after a most successful
voyage ; the Missionaries having been settled,
and everything having succeeded to the wishes
and expectations of the friends and Directors of
the benevolent scheme. This, in a great mea
sure, may be attributed to the skill of Captain
Wilson, whom God raised up, and, by a series
of events almost without a parallel in the his
tory of man, qualified to take charge of the ex
pedition. When in India, after having ren
dered invaluable services to the British army,
he was unfortunately taken by the French;
and, upon receiving intelligence that Suffrein
had basely accepted a bribe from Hyder Ally
to deliver the English prisoners into his hands,
he determined to effect his escape, which he
did by leaping from the prison-walls, a height
not less than forty feet. In his flight, the vast
Coleroon, a river full of alligators, obstructed
his passage ; but, ignorant of the danger he was'
encountering, he plunged into its waters, and
swam to the opposite shore. Flattering him
self that his perils were passed, and his liberty
secured, he ascended an eminence to survey the
surrounding country, when, to his terror and
surprise, he was perceived by some of Hyder
Ally's peons, who galloped towards him, seized
him, stripped him naked, tied his hands behind
his back, and, fastening a rope to them, drove
him before them to head-quarters.
When interrogated by one of Hyder Ally's
chieftains, he gave an ingenuous account of his
escape from the prison at Cuddalore. The

chieftain immediately charged him with false
hood, adding, that no mortal man had ever
swam over the Coleroon, and that, if he had
but dipped his fingers in its waters, he would
have been seized by the alligators. Upon being
convinced, however, of the fact, they all gazed
with astonishment, and the Turk exclaimed,
" This is God's man !
After this he was chained to a common sol
dier, and driven naked, barefoot, and wounded,
a distance of 500 miles. He was at length
loaded with irons of thirty-two pounds weight,
and thrust into a horrible prison called the
Black Hole ; and while there, so great at times
was the raging of hunger, that his jaws snapped
involuntarily when his scanty meal was brought
to him. Often the corpse was unchained from
his arm in the morning, that another living
sufferer might take its place, and fall by the
same merciless treatment.
That he should survive such accumulated
misery for twenty-two months, was next to a
miracle. At length the monster Hyder Ally
was subdued, and the doors of the Black Hole
were thrown open, when, emaciated, naked,
half-starved, and covered with ulcers, with
thirty-one companions, who alone remained to
tell the dismal tale of their sufferings, Captain
Wilson obtained deliverance. At a subsequent
period, when at Bencoolen, every European in
the ship he commanded died! Yet during all
this time his heart continued hardened, and he
knew not the hand that preserved him.
Having been successful in his mercantile
pursuits, he resolved to return to England, and
sit down content. With this view he embarked
in the same ship in which the excellent Mr.
Thomas, one of the Baptist Missionaries, was
returning to England. Mr. Wilson, being still
an infidel in principle, had frequent disputes
with Mr. Thomas, who one day remarked to
the chief officer of the vessel, that he should
have much more hope of converting the Lascars
to Christianity than Captain Wilson ; so deeply
mysterious, at times, are the ways of Providence.
But things impossible to man are possible with
God ; for at length, by a series of most interest
ing incidents, he was induced to abandon his
infidel principles, and became an eminent and
devoted Christian.
After some years of uninterrupted enjoyment
of the comforts around him, a number of the
Evangelical Magazine, communicating some em
bryo views of the mission to the South Seas, fell
into his hands, which immediately gave rise to the
suggestion, that, if his services were either
needful or acceptable, he would sacrifice his
comforts, and, without any prospect of worldly
advantage, embark once more upon the stormy
ocean. Thus was this wonderful man raised
up, and thus prepared to take command of this
novel and important undertaking.
When we reflect upon the various circum
stances which attended the commencement of
the mission, we cannot wonder that our fathers
had the pleasing impression " that their under
taking was of God."
A second time the ship Duff was sent with a
e2

CAPTAIN OF THE SHIP DUFF— SUCCESS OF THE MISSION.

6trong reinforcement of thirty additional labour
ers. By this we perceive the enlarged nature
of the views entertained by the friends of this
mission, together with the extent of their con
fidence in God and in his people. They were
men whose minds seemed to revel in great
things. God, however, for a time, appeared to
disappoint all their expectations ; for this
hitherto favoured ship was captured by the
Buonaparte privateer. The property was en
tirely lost; and the Missionaries, with their
families, after suffering many difficulties and
privations, returned to England. The Mar
quesan mission failed ; at Tongatabu some of
the Missionaries lost their lives, and that mission
was, in consequence of a series of disastrous
circumstances, abandoned ; those settled at
Tahiti, under such favourable circumstances,
had, from fear of their lives, nearly all fled to
New South Wales ; so that after a few years
very little remained of this splendid embassy of
Christian mercy to the South Seas. A few of
the brethren, however, never abandoned their
posts ; and others returned, after having been
a short time absent ; some of whom are still
labouring with unabated devotedness in the
cause to which they consecrated their lives.
These are Mr. Henry and Mr. Nott,* who
were among the first Missionaries in the Duff ;
and Mr. Davies and Mr. Wilson, who were in
the same vessel when she was captured. In
addition to all these disappointments, tbe Mis
sionaries at Tahiti appeared to be " labouring
in vain, and spending their strength for nought
and in vain." For sixteen years, notwithstand
ing the untiring zeal, the incessant journeys,
the faithful exhortations of these devoted men,
no spirit of interest or inquiry appeared ; no
solitary instance of conversion took place ; the
wars of the natives continued frequent and
desolating, and their idolatries abominable and
cruel. The heavens above seemed to be as
brass, and the earth as iron. At length the
time to favour Zion in Polynesia, yea, the set
time came, and then God was pleased to com
mence the work of conversion there, in such a
manner as to secure all the glory to himself.
This is worthy of special notice ; for the Mis
sionaries, at the time the work commenced,
were driven away from the island of Tahiti by
war, and cut off from all communication with
it. Two native servants, formerly in the families
of the Missionaries, had received, unknown to
them, some favourable impressions, and had
united together for prayer. To these many
other persons had attached themselves, so that,
on the return of the Missionaries to Tahiti, at
the termination of the war, they found a great
number of " pare Atua," or praying people ;
and they had little else to do but to help for
ward the work which God had so unexpectedly
and wonderfully commenced. Another circum
stance, demanding special observation in refer
ence to the commencement of the great work at
Tahiti, is, that, discouraged by so many years
of fruitless toil, the Directors entertained serious
* Now in England, artel- nearly forty years of faithful.
and devoted labour.

thoughts of abandoning the mission altogether.
A few undeviating friends of that field of Mis
sionary enterprise, however, opposed the mea
sure, among whom was good Dr. Haweis, who,
in addition to his former princely donations,
sustained his opposition by presenting the
Society with '2001. more.* My late venerable
and beloved pastor, the Rev. Matthew Willcs,
united with Dr. Haweis in supporting the
mission, and, with the characteristic devoted
ness of his spirit, said, " that he would rather
sell his garments from his back than that the
mission should be given up ;" and proposed
that a season of special prayer for the Divine
blessing should be observed. The proposition
was agreed to, and letters of encouragement
were written to. the Missionaries : and while
the vessel which carried these letters was on
her passage to Tahiti, another ship was convey
ing to England, not only the news of the entire
overthrow of idolatry, but also the rejected
idols of the people. Thus was fulfilled the
gracious promise, " Before they call I will
answer, and while they are yet speaking I will
hear." From that time to this, one continued series
of successes has attended our labours, so that
island after island, and group after group have,
in rapid succession, been brought under the
influence of the Gospel ; so much so, indeed,
that at the present time we do not know of any
group, or any single island of importance,
within 2000 miles of Tahiti, in any direction,
to which the glad tidings of salvation have not
been conveyed.
Thus it will be seen, that God was " not
unrighteous to forget their work of faith and
labour of love." The fathers of our Society
had cast themselves, in the " confidence of
hope," upon the promises and faithfulness of
God ; and it is not in accordance with the one
or the other that, having sown bountifully, they
should reap sparingly. My earnest desire is,
that the mighty work may go on with equal
rapidity, so that within a few years every island
in the Pacific, even to New Guinea itself, may
be elevated from its moral degradation, and
made to participate in the blessings of the I
Gospel. Nor am I devoid of the cheering hope
that I also maybe an instrument in accelerating
this great work. .
* The amount was in fact twelve hundred pounds; a
thousand of w hich the excellent Doctor became possessed
of in a peculiar way. Mrs. H  had just given birth
to a son, and a kind lady addressed a letter of congratula
tion to her, enclosing a present for Mrs. H  's at
tendant. This Mrs. Haweis returned to her friend. Dr,
Haweis was at this period much perplexed about the
Mission ; his 200 '., he said, would not support it, and he
feared that it would ultimately be abandoned. He had
spent an almost sleepless night in anxiety, when, on the
following morning, a letter was received from the ladY to
whom the Five Pounds had been returned, enclosing
five hundbed, saying, it was hoped that the Doctor would
not return that, but devote it to some of the numerous,
benevolent objects for which he required it. The letter
also contained a promise of Five Hundred more the
following year; all of which was devoted by the good
Doctor to the Souih Sea Mission.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS.

CHAPTER II.
Geographical Description of the Hervey Islands— Geolo
gical Character of the Islands generally — Their Classi
fication — The Objectfor which, and the Spirit in which,
Knowledge should be sought— On Cural Formations —
lieefs and Islands not the work of Insects.
The Island of Raiatea, the largest and most
central of the Society Islands, about 100 miles
from Tahiti, has been the immediate scene of my
labours since I joined the mission, in 1817 ; but,
as much information has been given, in various
ways, respecting the Tahitian and Society
Islands, I shall say little respecting them.
The two groups, about which the following
pages contain much information, are, first, the
Hervey ; and, secondly, the Samoa, or Navi
gators' Islands ; both of which are new fields of
Missionary labour.
The Hervey Islands are seven in number —
Mauke, Mitiaro, Atiti, Mangaia, Rarotonga,
Hervey's Island, and Aitutaki. They are from
500 to 600 miles west of Tahiti. Very
little was known of them until they were visited
by myself and my colleague, Mr. Bourne, in
1823. To prevent the interruption of the nar
rative, and to render the sequel more intelligible,
I shall give a short description of each island,
with its position, size, and population.
Hervey's Island, from which the group takes
its name, is really composed of two small islets,
19° 18' S., 158° 54' W. long. It was discovered
by Captain Cook, and by him named in honour
of Captain Hervey, R. N., one of the Lords of
the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of Bristol.
It is surrounded by a reef, through which there
is no entrance. I visited it in 1823, intending
to place a native teacher there, as I expected to
find a considerable population ; but on learning
that, by their frequent and exterminating wars,
they had reduced themselves to about sixty in
number, I did not fulfil my intention. Some
six or seven years after this I visited the same
island again, and found that this miserable
remnant of the former population had fought so
frequently and so desperately, that the only
survivors were five men, three women, and a
few children ! and at that period there was a con
tention among them as to which should be king !
Mauke is a small low island, discovered by
myself and Mr. Bourne, in 1823, in lat. 23° S.,
157° 20' W. long. It is about fifteen miles in
circumference. By an invasion of a large fleet
of canoes, laden with warriors from a neigh
bouring island, three years prior to our arrival,
the population, previously considerable, was, by
the dreadful massacre that ensued, reduced to
about 300.
Mitiaro is a still smaller island of the same
description. It lies about twenty miles north
west of Mauke. By famine and invasion this
island has likewise been almost depopulated ;
there not being 100 persons remaining.
Atiu is larger than either Mauke or Mitiaro.
This island, which is about twenty miles in
circumference, was discovered by Captain Cook,
and is situated 20° S., 158° 15' W. It is a

beautiful verdant spot, not mountainous, but
hilly. We found the inhabitants something
under 2000. Captain Cook, called it Wateoo.
Mangaia was also discovered by Captain
Cook, and is situated lat. 21° 57' S., 158° 7'
W. long., being about 120 miles south of Atiu.
Mangaia is twenty or five-and-twenty miles in
circumference, and moderately high. The
island is rather singular in, its form and appear
ance ; a broad ridge girting the hills, at about
100 feet from their base. The foliage is rich ;
the population between 2000 and 3000. These
four islands differ from the Society Islands in
tors very important feature, that the surround
ing reef joins the shore ; there is, consequently,
neither passage for boats, nor any safe anchor
age for vessels.
The sixth, and most important island of the
group, is Rarotonga. This splendid island
escaped the untiring researches of Captain
Cook, and was discovered by myself in 1823.
It is a mass of high mountains, which present a
remarkably romantic appearance. It is situated
in lat. 21° 20' S., 160° W. long. It has several
good boat harbours, is about thirty miles in
circumference, and is surrounded by a reef.
The population is about 6000 or 7000.
The seventh and last island is Aitutaki, which
was discovered by Captain Cook. Like most
of its companions in the group, its landscapes
are rich and variegated ; it is hilly rather than
mountainous, and surrounded by a reef, which
extends a very considerable distance from the
shore. There is a good entrance for a boat on
the west side of the island. It is eighteen
miles in circumference, and has a population of
about 2000 persons. The situation is 18° 54'
S. lat. 159° 41' W. long.
By this brief description of the Hervey
Islands, the reader will be enabled, as we pro
ceed, to refer in his mind to the relative im
portance of each island ; he will also perceive
that the whole group contains » population of
from 14,000 to 16,000 persons. Of the Samoa
Islands I shall hereafter give a more extended
account. Perhaps it will be expected that I should say
something upon two most interesting subjects —
both of which, however, are involved in much
mystery — the formation of the islands, and the
origin of the inhabitants. The latter point I
shall defer until I treat of the different dialects
spoken by the inhabitants of the various groups ;
and, having hastily glanced at tbe former, shall
pass as speedily as possible to the immediate
object of the present narrative, which is, first,
to show how the Gospel has been introduced
among this people, and then to supply some
account of the mighty triumphs it has achieved..
In order to give the reader a correct idea of
the islands generally, it will be necessary to
divide them into three distinct classes, and de
scribe each class separately. The first is the
mountainous. The islands of this class, with
but few exceptions, are truly splendid. The
immense mountains rise gradually from their
base, till their lofty summits are lost amid the
clouds of heaven ; some are broken into a thou-

CLASSIFICATION AND CHARACTER OF THE ISLANDS.

Aimeo Volcanic, or First Class.

sand fantastic shapes ; here a. pyramid piercing
the skies, and there a spire presenting its apex
above the belt of clouds by which it is girt ;
and then you see a precipitous rock, lifting
itself up in solemn grandeur, and frowning over
your head like the mouldering battlements of
some immense castle. The sides of these mag
nificent heights are clothed with bright verdure
of varied shades. Beauty, grandeur, wildness,
and sublimity, are so fantastically blended and
contrasted, as to excite the most varied and
delightful feelings. Then there is the ocean
beneath you, stretching away in boundless
majesty, until it appears to embrace the heavens
in the distance. At the base of the mountains
are fertile and luxuriant valleys, in which are
intermingled the stately bread-fruit tree, the
banana, the Brazilian plum, and many other
tropical productions, some of which are trees of
gigantic growth and richest foliage, — all equally
beautiful, but each having its own hue, from the
darkest shade to green of the lightest tint. The
plumes of the cocoa-nut tree, overtopping the
whole, and waving majestically to the passing
breeze from the ocean, give an exquisite finish
to the landscape.
The elevated portions of these islands are
from 2,000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the
sea. The mountains of Hawaii are said to be
about 15,000 feet in height.
In all the above-mentioned islands there are
evident traces of volcanic eruption. In many
of them the rocks are composed of a fine-grained

black basalt, of which the natives make their ,
¦perms, or pounders, to beat their bread-fruit
into a paste, and of which also they made their
hatchets prior to the introduction of iron tools.
In others, pumice-stone is found, and stones of
varied appearance, which have evidently under
gone the action of fire. Immense masses,
also, of conglomerated rubble are frequently
met with. But whether these islands, from 50
miles to 400 or 500 in circumference, and from
1,000 to 15,000 feet in height, owe their exist
ence entirely to volcanic agency, or otherwise,
is a problem I am not prepared to solve. Some
of them may; others may be fragments of a
submerged continent ; or they may have been
thrown up from the bed of the ocean by some
violent convulsion of nature. It is evident, that
all the islands with which we are acquainted
have, at one time or other, been under water ;
for at the tops of the highest mountains, coral,
shells, and other marine substances, • are found
in great abundance. The wild and romantic
appearance of the rocks — their broken, abrupt,
and irregular forms — also indicate that at some
remote period they have been subject to the
disruption of an earthquake, to volcanic ex
plosion, or to some other equally mighty and
equally capricious agent.
The islands of the second class are rather
hilly than mountainous, averaging from 100
to 500 feet in height. They are, generally
speaking, equally beautiful in their appearance, i
and luxuriant in their foliage, with those of the

Henderson's Island. Cryst.il Rocks, or Second Class.

CORAL REEFS.

first class ; but, being less sublime in their
character, from having neither pyramidal rocks
nor spring heights, they do not impress the
mind with that wonder and delight which must
seize the breast of every lover of nature, when
mountains of so much grandeur, richness, and
sublimity, first present themselves to his view.
In this second class of islands there is cer
tainly an absence, to a great extent, of the > ol-
canic phenomena that abound in those of the

first, the rocks being crystallized carbonate of
lime, very much in appearance like the aragonite
of the Giant's Causeway. These are supposed
originally to have been coral ; but by exposure
to the action of the atmosphere, together with
that of the water percolating through them, the
loose particles of calcareous matter have been
washed away, and the whole mass has become
hard and bright.
The third class is the low coralline islands,

War-*!

ONE OF THE FBIENDI.Y ISLANDS. Cor.ll, Tllil'd ClaSS.

which, in most cases, rise but a few feet above
the sea. They are generally small. Tongatubu,
however, which is also of this class, is about
100 miles in circumference. The soil upon the
coralline islands is frequently so very thin, that
but little vegetation is produced upon them,
beside the cocoa-nut trees, pandanus, some
stunted hibiscus, and a few other trees, of
dwarfish growth, with a quantity of brush-wood.
Tongatubu, however, and the Friendly Islands
generally, may be deemed exceptions ; the soil
there being much deeper, every production of
the islands of the first and second class grows
in luxuriant profusion. Mauke, also, is a beau
tiful and fertile little spot. The accompanying
cuts will present to the reader, at one view, the
relative appearance of the classes into which I
have divided the islands.
All the Society, and many other islands in the
Pacific, are surrounded by a belt of coral rock,
from two or three to twenty yards in width, and
situated at various distances, from a few yards
to perhaps two miles from the shore. Against
this wonderful barrier the long rolling waves of
the wide Pacific are driven with terrific violence ;
and towering in one vast sheet of water to an
immense height, with majestic power they curl
their foaming tops over the reef, and bursting
against this rocky bulwark, spread their harmless
vengeance upon its surface. The spray from the
breaking of these billows frequently rises so high
as to present a beautiful marine rainbow.
The waters of the lagoon, between the reef
and the shore, are placid and transparent, at
the bottom of which, and on the sloping sides
ofthe banks as they descend beneath the water,
a most enchanting picture presents itself; for
coral of every variety, of every shape, and of
every hue, is seen intermingled- in rich pro
fusion, presenting to the imagination the idea

of a sub-marine flower-garden or shrubbery of
exquisite beauty : while among the tortuous
branches of the madrepore, and wide-spreading
leaves of other corals, the zebra-fish, and others
of every colour and size, are seen gamboling in
conscious security.
For the sake of being clear and explicit upon the
interesting topic of the formation of the islands, I
shall first notice the theories which I find are en
tertained upon it, and afterwards present some
important facts to the attention ofthe reader, by
which these theories may be tested. For it
appears to me, that there is one grand point of
difference in moral and physical science, which
ought ever to be kept in view in our researches
after knowledge : in morals, facts and theories
must be brought to the test of known principles ;
while in physical science, theories and principles
must be brought to the test of facts.
The great object for which all knowledge
should be sought, and for which it ought to be
employed, is to illustrate the wisdom or goodness
of the great and beneficent Creator. And if we
come to the study of natural phenomena, with
minds unchilled by scepticism or infidelity, we
shall be led to sublime religious contemplations ;
and whether we examine the little coral insect
of the ocean, or gaze upon the gigantic beast of
the forest ; whether we atudy the little glow-worm
which twinkles upon the bank, or the celestial
luminaries performing their appointed revolu
tions in majestic silence, amidst the vast expanse
of infinity, with an ancient and scientific king,
we shall be led to exclaim, " How manifold, O
God, are thy works ! in wisdom thou hast made
them all."
In all our prying researches after knowledge,
it is necessary that the mind be firmly established
upon two great points — the belief in a Divine
creative agency, and in the Divine authenticity

THEORIES UPON CORALS.

of the sacred Scriptures ; having a thorough con
viction of the truth of the facts recorded, and of
the correctness of the principles laid down.
Without these, our minds will be led into a dark
mysterious void, instead of having our thoughts
carried up to the Father of light and of life.
With these principles as our ballast, without
any apprehension of danger, we may launch our
bark upon the broad ocean of science, explore
its coasts, and fathom its depths ; but destitute
of them, our vessel will be in a perpetual storm,
amidst rocks and shoals, without a rudder, a
compass, or a chart.
Thus equipped, you may accompany the
geologist into the bowels of the earth, and
examine its wondrous structure ; and you will
return with an overwhelming conviction, " that
the " Eternal God made the earth by his power,
that the pillars of it are his, and that he has set
the world upon them." With the astronomer,
you may ascend the skies, contemplate with
ecstasy the movements of the heavenly bodies,
and with the scientific Psalmist you will exclaim,
" The heavens declare the glory of God, and
the firmament showeth his handiwork." With
the voyager, you may visit distant climes, and
viewing man in all his multiplied and varied
characters, you will be convinced that " God
hath made of one blood all nations of men for
to dwell upon the earth." Thus it is, that in
every age the evidences of revealed religion
have advanced with the progress of sound know
ledge. Indeed, it cannot be otherwise ; for the
God of nature, whose operations it is the pro
vince of Bcience to explore, is the God of the
Bible ; and, as the God of truth, he cannot set
forth in his word principles at variance with
those which, as the God of nature, he has esta
blished in the material world. Both systems of
knowledge, thus emanating from the same
source, must harmonize with each other ; for
the Bible is something like a new edition of
the book of nature, with a splendid appendix,
which makes known the wonderful scheme of
human redemption. If there is any apparent
discrepancy in these two editions of this same
great work, it arises from our inability rightly to
decipher the characters employed.
In venturing to suggest any opinions of my
own upon this intricate but interesting- geological
topic, I shall do so in the form of hints, for the
candid consideration of those who may feel
disposed to prosecute their inquiries into its
mysteries. First, then, as to the formation of tbe coral
islands. The received opinion now is, thatthey
are formed by little marine animals, called sax-
igcnous, or rock-making polypes. These insects,
it is supposed, first select a suitable situation,
such as the summit of a volcano, or the top of a
sub-marine mountain ; for it is stated that this.
species ofthe coral insect does not exist' in deep
water.* Having thus selected the spot, innu
merable myriads of these wonderful little
animals work with incredible diligence until
they reach the surface of the water, above which
• Journal of Royal Geographical Society of London,
1831; p. 218.

they cannot build. Drift-wood and other sub
stances, which are conveyed by currents and
winds, there find a lodgment : sand, &c, is
washed up by the waves of the sea, and thus an
island is formed. Birds visit the spot, seeds are
by this means conveyed, and a soil is subse
quently created by decayed vegetable matter.*
This appears to be the received opinion rela
tive to the formation of the low coral islands.
The second class of islands, which are from
thirty to three hundred feet in height, being
what is termed crystallized rock-coral, are sup
posed to have been originally either reefs or
low islands, which have been elevated by the-
upheaving power of an earthquake, or the vol
canic intrusion of matter somewhere under their
base, or by some general and powerful expan
sive force. In two or three islands of this class
that I have had an opportunity of examining,
this latter opinion appears very probable.
In Atiu and Mauke, the latter of which we
discovered in 1823, there are several extensive
caverns, having a stratum of crystallized coral,
fifteen feet in thickness, as a roof. In one of
these exquisitely beautiful caverns I walked
about for two hours, and found no termination
to its windings. This circumstance, together
with the entire absence of scoria, lava, and other
volcanic phenomena, in this class of islands,
may lead to a supposition that they may have
been elevated by some expansive power, or
volcanic agency, without eruption.
In the island of Mangaia, where there is also
a small quantity of fine-grained basalt, there is
a subterraneous communication with the sea,
which, to the best of my recollection, reaches
more than a mile inland. A piece of wood, or
any other floating substance, thrown into a hole
at the bottom of the rocks, where there is a
small lake, will, in a short time, be found float
ing on the 6ea. Also at Raiatea, the largest of
the Society Islands, and one of the first, or
volcanic class, there is a similar communication
with the ocean. On the top of a mountain,
several hundred feet in height, there is a hole
of a few yards in dimension : and if, when a
strong haapiti, or north-easterly wind, blows,
you roll a piece of cloth of the size of a sheet
into a hard ball, and throw it into the hole, the
current of air beneath will open it out, and it
will be blown to the top of the hole again like
a parachute. The first class, as I have before intimated,
betray, in the multiplied points of their expan
sion, the proofs of volcanic violence. In Hawaii
of the Sandwich Islands, in Toofua and Proby
of the Friendly Islands, and in Tanna of the
New Hebrides, volcanoes are still in active
operation. From a variety of questions which have been
proposed to me since my arrival in England,
together with what I have heard stated by many
well informed persons, I perceive tliat incorrect
opinions are entertained respecting the extent
and rapidity of coral growth ; and that it is sup
posed new islands are constantly being formed
with such rapidity, that in course of time island
• Lyell's Geology, vol. iii., p. 300.

ON CORALS.

will be joined to island, and the whole Pacific
will become one vast continent ! Dr. Buckland,
in his late work on Geology, countenances the
theory of newly-formed islands, as well as the
rapidity of coral growth. " The tendency of
polypes to multiply in the waters of warm
climates is so great, that the bottom of our tro
pical seas swarm with countless myriads of these
little creatures, ever actively engaged in. con
structing their small but enduring habitations.
Almost every submarine volcanic cone and ridge
within these latitudes has become the nucleus
and foundation of a colony of polypes. The
calcareous secretions of these insects are accu
mulated into enormous banks, or reefs of coral,
sometimes extending to a length of many hun
dreds of miles ; these, continually rising to the
surface in spots where they were unknown
before, endanger the navigation of many parts
of the tropical seas."* Now, the question is,
Do the phenomena of the South Seas warrant
such a conclusion! I should reply, Most cer
tainly not. The rapidity of coral growth has
been most egregiously overrated and overstated.
Capt. Beechy, of his Majesty's ship the Blossom,
in his voyage to the Pacific, supplied some
valuable information calculated to corect this
error. And here I may assert, that, in all the
range of my travels in the South Seas, I have
perceived no animal agency at work adequate
to the formation of a reef or island of any
extent, within a period of many thousands of
years. Lyell, reasoning upon Captain Beechy's data,
supposes that the ordinary growth of coral may
amount to six inches in a century ; it will then
require 3000 years to produce a reef fifteen feet
thick.f Captain Beechy visited an island, sup
posed to be an elevated reef, eighty feet high ;
Mr. Stuchbury and myself have visited Rurutu,
the rocks of which are of the same material, and
are a hundred and fifty feet in height ; and the
calcareous rocks of Mangaia are about three
hundred feet. Now, all these are supposed to
be reefs elevated out of the sea ; and if it takes
a century to produce a reef six inches in thick
ness, and three thousand years to produce one
fifteen feet thick, eighteen thousand years would
be required to produce the island visited by
Captain Beechy, thirty thousand for the rocks
of Rurutu, and fifty or sixty thousand for those
of Mangaia ; and only that portion of them
which appears above water !
In addition to this, I have traditions of the
natives upon almost every subject, especially of
their former navigators, wherein every island
which has subsequently been discovered within
two thousand miles is named ; but in no one of
them is there any mention of, or reference to, a
newly-formed island. I am familiar with one
tradition, in which there is a genealogical ac
count of the reigning family for thirty genera
tions, and this is also equally silent upon the
subject of new formations.
Another error in reference to corals I find
entertained is this : many persons suppose that
* Buckland's Geology, p. 443.
t See Lyell's Geology, vol. iii. p- 300.

all coral insects work until they reach the surface
of the water, which is not the case ; for you
seldom find a piece of branching madrepore, or
brain, or any other coral, however deep in the
water, above two or three feet in height. Dr.
Ure, in his admirable work on Geology, appears
to assign by far too great importance to this
species of coral.*
And now I would briefly inquire what is the
substance of which coral is composed, and
whence do the insects obtain the material with
which they build 1 Three distinct theories appear
to be entertained upon this subject. The first
is, that coral is the exitvim of the insect, t The
second, that it is a secretion from the animal.
Buckland says, " that the gelatinous bodies of
these polypes are furnished with the power of
secreting carbonate of lime, with which they
form a basis of attachment, and cell of retreat,"
&c. A third opinion is, that the dead animal
is converted into coral. This latter idea appears
to be sanctioned by some persons of eminence.
Lyell, when speaking of Bermuda, says, that
" the decomposition of the numerous zoophites
produces a soft white calcareous "mud resem
bling chalk." J Mr. Stuchbury also remarks,
that the " carbonate of lime, by which some solid
masses of compact limestone are formed, may
have been derived from the decomposition of
corals and testacea."§
In venturing to offer a theory upon this topic,
differing from those entertained by scientific
men of great eminence, I must cast myself upon
the candour of any one who, by his superior
discernment, may detect a want of soundness
in my propositions.
That there exists a considerable portion of
calcareous matter, or carbonate of lime, in salt
water, has of course long been known ; it was,
however, a fact with which I was unacquainted,
until, when abroad, being in want of salt, we
were compelled to make it by boiling down
sea-water. In this process we invariably found
that a cake of lime formed at the bottom of
the pan in which the water was boiled. This
fact, thus ascertained, gave rise to a variety of
suggestions in my mind ; and having, since my
arrival in England, prosecuted my inquiries into
this subject, 1 find that, in all the salt-works in
which sea-water is boiled, a thick cake of sul
phate of lime is invariably found at the bottoms
of the pans ; and that our magnesia is obtained
from the same source. These facts will be
conclusive and satisfactory to the mind of every
person who was not previously aware of the
presence of lime in salt water. Whence this
material may be derived is an inquiry of no
importance to the theory I would suggest. Dr.
Buckland says, that " some refer it entirely to
marine animals," but intimates himself, " that
it may be carried by rivers into the sea."||
Where, however, are there rivers of sufficient
magnitude to impregnate such a body of water
as that of which the Pacific Ocean is com-
* See Ure's Geology, p. 469. + Forster's Voyages.
% Lyell's Geologv, vol. iii. p. 301.
§ Stuchbury. in the West of England Journal.
II Buckland's Bridgewatcr Treatise.

10

SUGGESTIONS ON CORAL REEFS.

posed? But, as in tropical climates the pro
cess of evaporation is so much more rapid
than in higher latitudes, and as this calcareous
matter is separated by evaporation, may we not
conclude that the innumerable myriads of these
minute calcareous particles, which are always
floating about in the sea, are thus produced!
The inference I draw, then, is this : that, as
there is carbonate of lime in salt water ; that as
corals are carbonate of lime ; and that as they
are found to exist principally in warm climates,
where by the process of evaporation there is an
abundance of material supplied for these insects
to build with ; instead of secreting the substance,
or producing it in any other way, they are
merely the wonderful architects which nature
employs to mould and fashion this material into
the various and beauteous forms which the God
of nature has designed it should assume !
This opinion appeared to me to receive con
siderable confirmation on my late visit to the
Museum at Liverpool ; for, in looking over the
extensive collection of corals there, I perceived
a branching piece rather different from any
with which I was acquainted ; and on reading
the label I found it to be " a calcareous crystal
formed in the evaporating-house of the King of
Prussia." I would venture also to suggest, whether the
same theory might not be applicable to the
formation of shells; and instead of supposing
that the animals secrete the calcareous coverings
which they inhabit, may they not emit or secrete
a gluten, to which the calcareous particles ad
here, and thus the shells are formed.
While I believe in the agency of insects in the
formation of the branching, the brain, and other
corals, and also in that of roundish masses of
various size, which, when broken, have much
the appearance of coarse lump-sugar, and may
be the work of the saxigenous polypes, yet, for
two or three apparently conclusive reasons, I
think the rock of which the reefs and islands
are composed is not the production of insects.
The first of these relates to the height of these
masses. Lyell states that the class of polypes,
to which this work is assigned, cannot live in
water of great depth, and, quoting Mr. Stuch
bury and other scientific authorities, suggests
that twenty-five or thirty feet is the lowest point
at which they can work. If this be correct, how
can we account for the solid rock eighty feet
above the surface of the water, of which Hender
son's Island, visited by Captain Beechy, is
composed; for the rocks of Rurutu, 150 feet;
and for those of Mangaia, 300 feet in height!
none of which present appearances to warrant
the supposition that they have been elevated by
a succession of efforts.* The inference to be
drawn from this is, that the insects do exist in
greater depths than are now assigned to them,
or that these solid masses are not the effect of
their labour : the one or the other must be the
case. To the latter opinion I entirely yield.
Another reason equally conclusive is, that,
while the madrepore, the brain, and every other
* Sec Captain Ueechy's Account of Henderson's Is
land.

species of coral, are full of little cells, the reefs
and islands appear to be solid masses of compact
crystal limestone, in which nothing like a cell
can be detected, but which, on the contrary,
present a fine stratified appearance. Lyell in
timates, " that this continuous mass of stone is
composed of shells, broken-off prickles of the
echini, fragments of coral, united by calcareous
sand, produced by the pulverisation of shells,"
&c. Now this kind of marine rubble, I think,
is invariably in strata from three to nine inches
in thickness ; and the solid masses composing
the islands and reefs, to which I have alluded,
are pure and unmixed.
A third objection I have to allowing the reefs
and islands to be the work of insects is, the
amazing length of time, as I have already shown,
that would be required to produce them. May
not these structures have been produced by the
chemical precipitation of the minute calcareous
particles of which I have spoken ! or may not
the late experiments at the Philosophical Insti
tution at Bristol throw some light upon this
subject! There, Mr. Cross, by passing electric
fluid through water, detached the calcareous
and silicious particles, and produced stones of
various kinds. Now, in tropical climates light
ning is very frequent and vivid, and perhaps
may exert an influence which has not hitherto
been assigned to it ; but more especially electric
fluid may be engendered, to a considerable
extent, by the sub-marine and other volcanoes
which abound in the South Seas, and produce
an effect adequate to the formation of these
wonderful and invaluable structures.*
After all, however, that I have seen, and
thought, and read upon the subject, my im
pression is, that the islands remain much in the
same state as when the deluge left them, and
that every subsequent alteration has been partial
in its character, and exceedingly limited in its
extent.

CHAPTER III.

Voyage to New South Wales— The remarkable circum
stances under which the Gospel was introduced in
Rurutu — His Majesty King George the Fourth remits
the Duty on the first Cargo of Native Produce— The
Wreck of the Ship Falcon at Rurutu — Honesty of the
Natives — Exhibition of Idols — The Aitutaki Mission
commenced.
In the latter end of the year 1821, Mrs. Wil
liam's health being much impaired, and suffer
ing myself from the effects of a disease prevalent
in the islands, it was deemed desirable to avail
ourselves of an opportunity, which was then
afforded, of visiting New South Wales. Desirous
of making the affliction subservient to the one
great object to which our lives were devoted,
we determined to take with us two native
* In my late visit to Bristol, I found that Mr. Cross
produced his crystals, not by violent shocks of electricity,
but by a small constant stream of electric fluid ¦ which
appears to be the manner in which it would be emitted
in submarine volcanoes, and may account for the circum
stance of the coral reefs and islands being formed on their
summits.

EPIDEMIC AT RURUTU— AUURA ARRIVES AT RAIATEA.

11

Christians, and place them as teachers in the
Island of Aitutaki.
The captain of the vessel having kindly con
sented to convey them, without expense either
to ourselves or the Society, we mentioned the
circumstance to the members of the church, who
were delighted with the proposition, and selected
Papeiha and Vahapata, two of their number,
for the work. Of Papeiha much will be said
hereafter, for he has been exceedingly useful,
and to the present moment has preserved an
unsullied reputation. These two brethren were
set apart to their office in an interesting service,
held on the day of our departure from Raiatea.
The minds of our people had been awakened to
the subject of extending the knowledge of the
Gospel by a peculiarly interesting circumstance
that had just before occurred. An island called
Rurutu, about 350 miles to the south of Raiatea,
was visited by an epidemic, which appears to
have been exceedingly fatal. As the natives
believe every such calamity to be an nfliction
of some angry deity, two chiefs of enterprising
spirit determined to build each a large canoe,
and, with as many of their people as could be
conveyed, to launch upon the mighty deep,
committing themselves to the winds and the
waves, in search of some happier isle. They
felt convinced that, if they remained, they would
certainly be "devoured by the gods," whose
anger they had in vain endeavoured to appease ;
and that, should they not succeed in reaching
any other land, they could but perish in the
billows of the ocean.
Everything prepared, Auura and his party
launched their canoe, unfurled their sails, and
were soon out of sight of their lovely but de
voted island, and, as they supposed, out of the
reach of their infuriated deities. They arrived
at the island of Tubuai ; and, after having
recruited their strength and. spirits, determined
on returning to their native isle, hoping that
the plague was stayed. They launched their
vessels, and committed themselves again to the
deep, little anticipating the perils that awaited
them. Scarcely had they lost sight of the
mountains of Tubuai, when they were overtaken
with a violent storm, which drove them out of
their course. Of the crew of one of the canoes
the greater part perished at sea. The chief,
Auura, to whom the other belonged, and his
party, were driven about they knew not whither,
and for three weeks they traversed the trackless
ocean, during which time they suffered exceed
ingly from the want of food and water. At
length, He who holds the winds in his fists, and
the .waters in the hollow of his hands, to whose
merciful designs the elements are subservient,
guided them to the Society Islands. They were
driven on the- coral reef which surrounds the
island of Maurua, the farthest west of the group.
Had they not reached this island they must have
perished. The hospitable attentions of the inhabitants
of this little isle soon restored the strength of
the exhausted voyagers, who related the dread
ful calamities which had befallen their country
and themselves. The Mauruans informed them

that they formerly worshipped the same deities,
and attributed every evil that befel them to the
anger of their " evil spirits ;" but that now they
were worshippers of Jehovah, the one living
and true God ; giving them a detailed account
of the manner in which Christianity had been
introduced among themselves, and pointing to
the demolished maraes and mutilated idols in
confirmation of their statements.
The astonished strangers, on hearing that
white men, who had come in ships from a dis
tant country to bring them good tidings, were
living at islands, the summits of whose moun
tains were in sight, determined to proceed there
immediately. A westerly wind setting in,
Auura and his friends again launched on the
deep, not to fly from the anger of their gods, but
in search of those who could explain more fully
to them the nature of the astonishing news they
had heard. Not being acquainted with the
coast of Porapora, they missed the entrance,
and were driven to Raiatea. On landing their
astonishment was again excited; the mission
aries, their wives and families, the natives in
European dresses with hats and bonnets, their
neat white cottages, together with the various
useful arts which had been introduced amongst
the people, filled the strangers with admiration
and surprise. When they were conducted to
public worship on the Sabbath, they beheld
with astonishment the assembled multitude ;
heard them sing the praises of the one living
and true God, and listened with the deepest
interest to the message of mercy. At once they
were convinced of the superiority ofthe Christian
religion, and concluded that God had graciously
conducted them there for the purpose of making
them acquainted with its inestimable blessings.
Having placed themselves under our instruc
tion, we gave them in special charge to our
deacons, and supplied them with elementary
books. Auura was exceedingly diligent in
learning, and made very rapid progress. In a
short time he completely mastered the spelling-
book, could repeat the greater part of our cate
chism, and read in the gospel of Matthew.
They were only with us a little more than three
months, and, before they left, he and several
others could read, spell, and write correctly,
although they were previously ignorant of the
formation of a letter or a figure.
Auura expressed to us very frequently his
anxious desire to revisit his own island, to carry
to his relatives and countrymen the knowledge
he had obtained of the true God and his Son
Jesus Christ ; manifesting, at the same time,
in the most affectionate manner, his fears that
on his return he should find very few of his
relatives and friends alive, as " the evil spirit
was devouring the people so fast when he fled
from the island."
A vessel, belonging to our kind and liberal
friend A. Birnie, Esq., touched at Raiatea, on
her way to England, whither she was conveying
the very first cargo of native produce which was
shipped from that part of the world. It was a
cargo of cocoa-nut oil, subscribed by the con
verted natives in aid of the funds of the London

Missionary Society. His late Mnjesty King
George IV., upon being informed of the cir
cumstance, graciously commanded that the duty-
should be remitted, which enhanced the value
of the property 400?. The total amount, there
fore, contributed to the funds of the Society by
this produce was 1800?.
Having informed the captain of our wish that
the chief and people might be conveyed to their
own island, with a readiness which did him
honour, he offered to take them. When we
named the kind offer of the captain to the chief
and his wife, they expressed their delight at the
prospect of returning, but Auura objected to go
to their " land of darkness without u light in
his hand ;" by which he meant some person to
instruct him and his people in the truths of the
Gospel. We assembled the members of our
congregation, mentioned Auura's desire, and
inquired who among them would go as teachers
to the heathen of Rurutu. Two of our deacons,
who were amongst our best men, came forward,
and, we hope, with the spirit, as well as in the
language of the prophet, said, " Here we are ;
send us." They were therefore set apart to
their work by an interesting service. The
greater part of the night previous to their de
parture was spent in providing them with some
necessary and useful articles. Every member
of our church brought something as a testimonial
of his affection ; one a razor, another a knife, a
third a roll of native cloth, a fourth a pair of
scissors, and others, various useful tools. We
supplied them with elementary books, and a few
copies of the gospels in the Tahitian language,
from which their own does not materially differ.
Thus we equipped them for this expedition as
well as our means would allow.
As we were anxious to know what reception
was given to the teachers, and to open a com
munication with this, to us, unknown island,
we sent a boat of our own, with a native crew,
to bring back intelligence. After an absence of
little more than a month, we had the pleasure
of seeing this boat return, laden with the tro
phies of victory, the gods of the heathen taken
in this bloodless war, and won by the power of
the Prince of Peace. On reading the letters
which accompanied them, and seeing with our
own eyes the rejected idols, we felt a measure
of that saered joy which the angels of God will
experience when they shout, " The kingdoms
of this world are become the kingdoms of our
God and his Christ."
A meeting was held in our large chapel to
communicate the delightful intelligence to our
people, and to return thanks to God for the
success with which he had graciously crowned
our first effort to extend the knowledge of his
name. The chapel was lighted up with ten chande
liers, made of wood neatly turned ; cocoa-nut
shells were substituted for lamps. The middle
chandelier held eighteen lights, twelve in the
lower circle, and six in the upper; the others
held ten and twelve each. When lighted up,
they presented to the natives a most brilliant
appearance, and called forth expressions of asto

nishment and delight. In the course of the
evening the rejected idols were publicly exhi
bited from the pulpit. One in particular, Aa,
the national god of Rurutu, excited considerable
interest ; for, in addition to his being bedecked
with little gods outside, a door was discovered
at his back, on opening which, he was found to
be full of small gods ; and no less than twenty-
four were taken out, one after another, and
exhibited to public view. He is said to be the
ancestor by whom their island was peopled, and
who aftei' death was deified.
Several most interesting addresses were deli
vered by the natives on the occasion. The two
following extracts will give an idea of their
general character : — Tuahine, one of our dea
cons, observed, —
" Thus the gods made with hands shall perish.
There they are, tied with cords! Yes! their
very names are also changed ! Formerly they
were called ' Te mau Atua,' or the gods ; now
they are called ' Te mau Varu hw,' or evil spi
rits : Their glory, look ! it is birds' feathers,
soon rotten ; but our God is the same for ever."
Tamatoa, the king, also addressed the meet
ing ; and, perhaps, a finer illustration of the simi
litude of the knowledge of the Lord covering
the earth as the waters cover the channels ofthe
great deep, will not readily be found, than was
used by this Christian chief : — ¦
"Let us," said he, "continue to give our oil
and arrow-root to God, that the blind may see,
and the deaf hear. Let us not be weary in this
good work. We behold the great deep : it is
full of sea; it is rough and rugged underneath ;
but the water makes a plain, smooth surface, so
that nothing of its ruggedness is seen. Our
lands were rugged and rough with abominable
and wicked practices ; but the good word of
God has made them smooth. Many other coun
tries are now rough and rugged with wickedness
and wicked customs. The word of God alone
can make these rough places smooth. Let us
all be diligent in this good work, till the rugged
world is made smooth by the word of God, as
the waters cover the ruggedness of the great
deep. Let us, above all, be concerned to have
our own hearts washed in Jesus' blood ; then
God will become our friend, and Jesus our
brother." He concluded by an interesting allusion to
the natives of Rurutu. Another speaker, with
warmth and animation that produced a great
impression, said, —
" Look at the chandeliers ! Oro never taught
us anything like this ! Look at our wives, ill
their gowns and their bonnets, and compare
ourselves with the poor natives of Rurutu, when
they were drifted to our island, and mark the
superiority ! And by what means have we ob
tained it 1 By our own invention and goodness %
No ! it is to the good name of Jesus we are
indebted. Then let us send this name to other
lands, that others may enjoy the same benefits."
"Angels," added Uaeva, "would rejoice to be
employed by God to teach the world this Gospel
of Christ."
To prevent the necessity of having again to

WRECK OF THE FALCON— FRAUDULENT ATTEMPT DEFEATED.

13

notice this island, I shall mention here one or
two interesting events in reference to it. Some
time after the introduction of Christianity into
Rurutu, a circumstance occurred which afforded
indubitable proof of its beneficial effects upon
the minds of the inhabitants, and displayed at
the same time the great advantages which accrue
from Missionary labours to our own and other
maritime countries. Captain Chase, who com
manded an American whaler, was in the habit
of touching frequently at Raiatea for refresh
ment. He determined, on his last visit to us, to
call at Rurutu, on his way to America, in order
to procure a supply of yams, which are both
fine and abundant at that island, when, unfor
tunately, his vessel was wrecked upon the rocks.
The natives afforded him very efficient aid ;
in acknowledgment of which, the captain, on
his departure, left the following document : —
" The natives gave us all the assistance in
their power from the time the ship struck to
the present moment. The first day, while
landing the things from the ship, they were put
into the hands of the natives, and carried up to
the Native Mission-house, a distance of half a
mile ; and not a single article of clothing was
taken from any man belonging to the ship,
though they had it in their power to have plun
dered us of every thing that was landed ; which
fully proves the honesty of the natives of this
island. Since I have lived on shore, myself,
officers, and people, have received the kindest
treatment from the natives that can be imagined,
for which I shall ever be thankful. Myself and
officers have lived in the house with Puna, who,
together with his wife, have paid every attention
to make us comfortable ; for which I return my
unfeigned thanks, being the only compensation
I can make them at present.
(Signed) "B.Chase."
A short time after this I received a letter from
Captain Chase, speaking in the strongest terms
of the kindness he had experienced, and inform
ing me that he had committed the cargo and
the stores of the vessel to the native teachers ;
but, as they were not acquainted with the rela
tive value of money, he requested me to take
the first opportunity of selling the property, and
transmitting the proceeds to the President of
the Marine Insurance Company in America.
Some two or three months subsequently to this
unfortunate occurrence, a trading vessel arrived
at Tahiti. The captain, hearing of the wreck
of the Falcon at Rurutu, and that there were
only native Missionaries at the island, imagined
that he could easily deceive them, and obtain
the property ; and, therefore, instead of coming
to Raiatea, and making a fair purchase of me,
he raised his anchor, and steered direct for
Rurutu. On landing he was welcomed by the
native Missionary, to whom he stated that he
had come for the oil belonging to the late Fal
con. The Missionary asked him if he had not
a letter from Beni. " Certainly," replied the
captain, " but I have come from my ship with
out it ; I will return for it immediately." He
went off to his vessel, and wrote an order, with
which he returned to the shore : and, affirming

that it was from Captain Chase, he put it into
the hands of the Missionary. The natives are
very unsophisticated at times, in the expression
of their sentiments; and, looking the captain
significantly in the face, the teacher, in his
broken English, said, " You a liar, you a thief,
you want to steal this property — you no have
it." The captain, being much enraged at this
salutation, or more probably at being disap
pointed of his expected booty, began to bluster
and storm. The teacher, however, took the
captain by tbe hand, led him into his house,
then opened his native journal, in which he
had taken the precaution to get Captain Chase
to write, and, placing the forged paper by the
side of this writing, he repeated his charge —
"You a liar, you a thief, you shall not have this
property." The captain threatened to go on
board, load his cannon, and take it by force.
He left the shore in anger ; but, instead of car
rying his threat into execution, he hoisted his
sails and took his departure. We never ascer
tained from whence he came, nor whither he
went. This circumstance shows that the con-
duet of civilized visiters is not, at all times, cal
culated to raise the European character in the
estimation of the natives. It shows, also, that
the natives are not destitute of good sound
common sense ; while at the same time it exhi
bits, in a striking light, the advantages the
people have derived from education.
Captain Chase rewarded the natives for the
assistance they rendered, in saving the cargo
and stores of the vessel, by giving them a
portion of the oil. They immediately formed a
Native Missionary Society, and contributed a
considerable part of what they had thus ob
tained in aid of the funds of the institution from
whose operations they had derived so much
advantage ; and, in «, visit I paid them some
time after, they presented me with a set of bills
for 66?., which they had received from the
captain to whom they had sold their contribu
tions ! It was with much pleasure that I trans
mitted this expression of their gratitude to the
Treasurer of the Society.
This island was visited by the Deputation,*
some twelve or fifteen months after the intro
duction of the Gospel ; respecting which, in
their communications, they remark, " Now the
designs of God, in sending us winds which we
thought adverse, were explained, in affording us
an opportunity of visiting this beautiful little
island. When we reached it, we were not
certain what island it was, but were greatly
surprised to see several neat-looking white
houses at the head of the bay. From this we
concluded that the Gospel had reached its
shores. A pier, a quarter of a mile in length,
had been constructed of vast coral blocks, as at
some of the Society Islands, which afforded a
convenient landing-place. We were kindly in
vited to the houses of the Missionaries, when
we received every possible attention from them
and from the natives, who supplied us with
baked pigs, fowls, and yams in profusion.
* The Rev. Dr. Tyermnn. and G. Bennct, Esq., sent by
the Directors to visit all these stations.

14

CHAPEL AT RURUTU— INTERVIEW WITH TAMATOA.

" Besides the two comfortable houses of the
Missionaries, we were surprised to find a large
place of worship, eighty feet by thirty-six,
wattled, plastered, well floored, and seated, —
built within a twelvemonth, at the expense of
great labour, by these industrious people, under
the direction of the two native Missionaries,
who performed a great part of the work with
their own hands. Mr. Ellis preached several
times to the people, when every individual in
the island attended. Many of the chiefs were
dressed in European clothing, and all were
attired in the most decent and becoming man
ner. In the house of God no congregation
could have behaved with more propriety; all
was solemnity.
" Here our eyes were struck, and our hearts
affected, by the appearance of certain simple
yet signal trophies of ' the word of God' which
in these islands is really going forth conquering
and to conquer. These were ' spears,' not in
deed ' beaten into pruning-hooks,' but converted
into staves to support the balustrade of the
pulpit staircase : for the people here ' learn war
no more ;' but all, submitting to the Prince of
Peace, have cast away their instruments of
cruelty with their idols.
" Not a vestige of idolatry was to be seen, not
a god was to be found in the island. So great
a change effected in so short a time is almost
beyond credibility ; but we witnessed it with
our own eyes, and exclaimed, ' What hath God
wrought!' "
By the remarkable success that had attended
the introduction ofthe Gospel to Rurutu, ourown
minds, as well as those of our people, were power
fully awakened to the great importance of ex
tending the benefits and blessings of the
Gospel ; and, under the excited and delightful
feelings thus produced, we, with our native
teachers, took an affectionate leave of our
people, and beloved colleagues, Mr. and Mrs.
Threlkeld, and steered for the Hervey Islands.
On the arrival of the vessel at Aitutaki, we
were very soon surrounded by canoes ; the
natives were exceedingly noisy, and presented
in their persons and manners all the wild
features of savage life. Some were tatooed froni
head to foot ; some were painted most fantasti
cally with pipe-clay and yellow and red-ochre ;
others were smeared all over with charcoal ;
and in this state were dancing, shouting, and
exhibiting the most frantic gestures. We in
vited the chief Tamatoa.on board the vessel. A
number of his people followed him. Finding
that I could converse readily in their language,
I informed the chief of what had taken place in
the Tahitian and Society Islands with respect
to the overthrow of idolatry. He asked me,
very significantly, where great Tangaroa was !
I told him that he, with all the other gods, was
burned. He then inquired where Koro of
Raiatea was ! I replied, that he too was con
sumed with fire ; and that I had brought two
teachers to instruct him and his people in the
word and knowledge of the true God, that he
and they also might be induced to abandon and
destroy their idols, as others had done. On my

introducing the teachers to him, he asked me
if they would accompany him to the shore. I
replied in the affirmative, and proposed that
they should remain with him. He seized them
with delight, and saluted them most heartily by
rubbing noses, which salutation he continued
for some time. On the chief promising me
that he would treat the teachers with kindness,
and afford them protection, taking with them
their little store, they got into his large canoe,
and the natives paddled off to the land, ap
parently greatly delighted with their treasure.
We had with us our only child, a fine boy
about four years of age. He was the first
European child they had seen, and attracted
so much notice, that every native wished to rub
noses with the little fellow. They expressed
their sorrow that so young and lovely a child
" should be exposed to the dangers ofthe wide-
spreading boisterous ocean," and begged hard
that I would give him to them. I asked them
what they would do with him, for I feared they
were cannibals. The chief replied, that they
would take the greatest care of him, and make
him king. As, however, neither his mother
nor myself were ambitious of royal honours for
our dear boy, we declined their offer. The
people became clamorous in their demands for
the child, and a good deal of whispering going
on among them, with the significant gestures of
first looking at the child, then over the side of
the vessel, his mother was induced to hasten
with him into the cabin, lest they should snatch
him from her, leap with him into the sea, and
swim to the shore. In the course of conversa
tion with the chief, I learned that several islands,
of which I had heard om- natives speak, when
reciting their legendary tales, were not far
distant, and that some of them were very
populous, especially Rarotonga. This informa
tion much increased in my estimation the in
terest of the Aitutaki Mission.
Thus it will appear that the year 1821 was
fraught with important events. It was, in fact,
a period of great things. In this year our
native Missionary Society was formed, and our
first Missionary meeting held. In this year also
our Missionary interest was excited by a
striking providence, which ended in the utter
renunciation of idolatry, and the reception of
the Gospel, by the inhabitants of Rurutu. In
the same year, too, by distressing afflictions,
which we deeply deplored at the time, opera
tions for extending the boundaries of the
Redeemer's kingdom were commenced, which
have been attended with the most delightful
results, and which have been continued with
great success ever since.
This is the more remarkable, because, on
account of health, we expected that my labours
in that part of the Missionary field were about
to terminate ; for we had actually made prepa
rations for returning to England in the vessel
that brought home the Missionary contributions.
But, feeling a reluctance to abandon the work,
we determined to try the effect of a visit to
New South Wales.
Thus we are able to recognise the gracious

PROVIDENTIAL OPENING— TRADITION ABOUT RAROTONGA.

15

hand of God in all that has occurred. We
little thought at the time to what these things
would grow. But He in whose work we were
engaged is the Wonderful Counsellor, the
government is upon his shoulders, and he over
rules all human events for the furtherance of
his designs of mercy. We shall find much
pleasure, as we proceed, in noticing the numer
ous and striking interpositions of God on our
behalf.

CHAPTER IV.

Mission to Aitutaki— Tradition about Rarotonga— Voy
age of Messrs. Bourne and the author — Success at
Aitutaki— Our intercourse with the People — Informa
tion about Rarotonga — Search for it — Papeiha's Narra
tive.
Haviug derived much advantage from a few
months' residence in New South Wales, we
returned, with recruited vigour, to our delight
ful labours, after an absence of about eight
months, and were cordially welcomed by our
beloved brethren and people.
In April, 1822, we received letters from
Papeiha and Vahapata, stating the dangers to
which they had been exposed, and the partial
success that had attended their efforts, and re
questing that two more labourers might be
sent to assist them. The vessel which brought
these had touched at Aitutaki on her way from
the Society Islands to New South Wales, to
deliver some books, presents, and letters, which
we sent there by her. With these Faaori, »
native of Raiatea, went on shore. The idola
ters crowded around him seized him, led him
before the marae, and formally delivered him
up to their gods. Faaori, looking up at an im
mense idol, struck it, and said to the idolaters,
" Why do you not burn this evil spirit, and this
marae ! They are Satan's : why do you suffer
them to remain! What you are now regarding
is all deceit." The idolaters replied, "We are
all ignorant ; we have been kept in darkness by
Satan a long time, and we do not know the
truth." Faaori answered, " This is the truth that
your teachers have brought you ; receive it, and
be saved." Upon hearing which, they said to
him, "When you return, tell Viriamu, (Mr.
Williams,) if he will visit us, we will bam our
idols, destroy our maraes, and receive the word
of the true God." Together with this commu
nication, we received the very important infor
mation, that there were several natives at Aitu
taki, from an adjacent island, called Rarotonga,
who had embraced the Gospel, and were very
anxious to return to their own island, with
teachers to instruct their countrymen in the same
blessed truths. These circumstances appeared
to us providential openings for the introduction
of the Gospel into the whole group of islands,
respecting several of which I received informa
tion when I first visited Aitutaki. Of Rarotonga,
also, we had heard much from our own people ;
for in many of their legendary tales, especially
in those of their voyagers, Rarotonga is fre
quently mentioned.
In conversation with an old priest, who at

that time was a decided and excellent Christian,
respecting the situation of Rarotonga, he in
formed me tliat there was a tradition that it
was formerly united to the southern extremity
of Raiatea, but that the gods had carried it
away. I asked him whither they were said to
have conveyed it % when he replied, that he did
not know, but it was believed they had
taken it to the south. Upon this, I inquired
the reason of the gods carrying away so valuable
a neighbour as an island and its inhabitants !
and he informed me that the natives of Raro
tonga, in the exercise of their piety, had made
a large drum, called Tai-moana, or the Sounder
of the Seas, v/hich they sent by the hands of
two priests, as a present to Oro, the god of war,
whose residence was the great marae, at Opoa,
in Raiatea, and that after the priests from
Rarotonga had dedicated Tai-moana, some
untoward circumstances occurred, which in
duced the Raiateans to kill them. The gods
were so much enraged that persons who had
brought so valuable a present should be killed,
that they took up the island, with its population,
and carried it completely away. From some
parts of this fabulous legend we were convinced
that the island was in existence, and that it
was an island of considerable importance.
From another tradition, which stated what was
universally believed, we learned that a chief,
named Iouri, many years before, had built a
large native pahi, or ship ; and, being of an
enterprising spirit, he determined to go in search
of other countries, when, after traversing the
ocean for a length of time, he reached Raro
tonga ; from which place he returned in safety
to Raiatea, bringing with him a female, who
became the wife of Tamatoa, the king of that
island, and an ancestor of the late excellent
chief of that name. From hence, also, Iouri
brought a quantity of mahi, or preserved bread
fruit, which was dedicated to the god Oro, at
the celebrated marae at Opoa, in Raiatea, the
grand emporium of idolatry to Tahiti, the
Society, and the surrounding islands ; and from
that time it became an object of ambition with
every adventurous chief to discover other lands,
and, on his return, to bring some article of
value to his own island. The information thus
obtained was, that Rarotonga was a large and
beautiful island, with a population so great,
that it was divided into nine-and-twenty
districts. This traditional information, as to
the existence of the island, was now confirmed
beyond the possibility of a doubt, as there were
several people at Aitutaki from the very island,
anxiously waiting an opportunity to return
home, to make known to their deluded friends
and countrymen the wonderful truths of which
they were in possession.
After consultation and prayer with my es
teemed colleagues, Messrs. Threikeld and
Bourne, it was determined that Mr. Bourne and
myself should embrace the first opportunity of
proceeding to the island of Aitutaki, by hiring
a vessel for the purpose ; that we should also
take a number of native Missionaries with us,
search for Rarotonga, and attempt to introduce

16

ENTIRE OVERTHROW OF IDOLATRY.

the Gospel into every island of the Hervey
group. And, little as we think of it now, it
was a great undertaking at that time, when
nothing accurately was known of the islands or
their inhabitants.
Four Missionaries, with their wives, were
selected from our church at Raiatea, and two
from Tahaa. These were set apart for their
work by a solemn service on the evening pre
ceding our departure. Our people took so
lively an interest in the undertaking, that, by
their willing contributions, they completely
equipped the Missionaries for the voyage, and
for their stations, without any expense to the
Society. After aboutfive days' pleasant sail, we reached
Aitutaki. A number of canoes crowded around
us, rilled with men, every one of whom was
anxious to get on board our ship. We had,
however, determined not to allow any canoes
alongside, until we had seen either the chief or
one of the teachers ; for, had the natives been
hostile, they could easily have captured our
small vessel. We received a grateful salutation
from every canoe that approached us. Some of
the natives cried out, " Good is the word of
God : it is now well with Aitutaki ! The good
word has taken root at Aitutaki!" Finding,
however, that we did not repose entire confi
dence in their assertions, some held up their
hats,* others their spelling-books, to convince
us of the truth of what they stated. As we
approached the settlement, we beheld, from the
vessel, a flag-staff with a white flag flying,
which satisfied us that the teachers were alive.
At length the chiefs canoe came alongside,
when we learned from Tebati, one of the first
who embraced the Gospel, that the maraes
were burned ; that the idols which had escaped
the general conflagration were in the possession
of the teachers ; that the profession of Christi
anity was general, so much so, indeed, that not
a single idolater remained; and that a large
chapel was erected, nearly 200 feet in length,
plastered, and awaiting my arrival to open it.
This news was as delightful as it was unex
pected. When the teachers came on board,
they not only confirmed all that had been told
us, but added, that the Sabbath was regarded
as a sacred day, no work of any kind being
done on it ; that all the people, men, women,
and children, attended Divine service ; and that
family prayer was very general throughout the
island. At healing this good news, joy beamed
in every countenance, and gratitude glowed in
every heart. We hastened to the shore to be
eye-witnesses of what had been effected. The
natives crowded around the boat, and having
to drag it a considerable distance, they amused
and delighted us ; for, instead of the unsightly
gesticulations and lascivious songs with which
I was greeted on my first visit, some were now
spelling long words, and others were repeating
portions of the catechism, or a prayer ; another
asking a blessing on his food ; and others sing-
* The European-shaped hat was worn only by the
Christian party, the idolaters retaining their heathen
head-dresses, war-caps, &c,

ing a verse of a hymn : indeed, every one ap
peared anxious to show what progress he had
made in the new religion.
Shortly after landing, we convened a meeting
of the chiefs and people, at which we expressed
our joy at hearing and seeing that they had
demolished their maraes, embraced the Gospel
of Christ, and erected so fine and large a house
for the worship ofthe one living and true God.
We also informed them that we had brought
two more teachers, who, with their wives, would
reside with them, and to whom they must show
kindness. We further intimated, that, if agree
able, we would open the chapel on the following
morning,'when they must lay aside their heathen
ish ornaments, wash themselves clean, and clothe
themselves decently ; to which they consented.
We asked them if they had any reply to make.
They said no, but wished that we would continue
to talk with them, for they were delighted to hear
us. After this interview, we went to see the
chapel. It was a fine building, from 180 to 200
feet in length, and almost thirty feet wide, wattled
and plastered, and built after the model of our
chapel at Raiatea. The pulpit was rather sin
gular, both in its size, construction, and appear
ance, being about two yards square, made of
wattling, and plastered with the same materials
as the walls of the chapel. I gazed upon the
building with wonder and delight. We then
went to the teachers' house, and found it to be
a neat, well-built cottage, plastered and divided
into five rooms. We commended them sin
cerely for the diligence they had evinced, and
for the good example they had thus set to the
people. Posts, for houses on a similar plan,
were collected in every part of the settlement ;
many dwellings were already erected, and others
were in progress. Bedsteads had been made,
and hung with white native cloth, in imitation
of those of their teachers. Little did I expect
to see so much accomplished in so short a time.
Eighteen months ago they were the wildest
people I had ever witnessed : now they had
become mild and docile, diligent and kind.
Next day, while in the midst of an interesting
conversation, our attention was arrested by a
ringing sound. This was produced by striking
an axe with a stone, which contrivance was
their substitute for a bell. The ringer, or rather
striker, was followed through the settlement by*
a number of men and women, decently dressed
in white cloth, and, when the congregation was
assembled, we entered the spacious chapel. The
six teachers, with their wives, together with
Papeiha amd Vahapata, took their seats in front
of the pulpit. As they were all clothed in
European dresses, their appearance excited much
surprise and interest; indeed, it was to the
Aitutakians an ocular demonstration of the
beneficial effects of Christianity. My esteemed
colleague commenced the service with reading,
singing, and prayer. I then preached my first
sermon to them, from one of the most delightful
texts in the Bible, "God so loved the world,"
&c. ; and I may add, at all the islands I have
visited, from that time to the present, my first
address has invariably been founded, either upon

INCIDENTS AT AITUTAKI.

17

that passage, or upon 1 Tim. i. 15, " This is a
faithful saying," &c. It was, indeed, a delight
ful sight to behold from 1500 to 2000 people
just emerged from heathenism, of the most
uncultivated appearance, some with long beards,
others decorated with gaudy ornaments, but all
behaving with the greatest decorum, and attend
ing, with glistening eyes and open rhouth, to
the wonderful story, that- " God so loved the
world, as to give his only-begotten Son." Many
of them, however, were dressed very neatly ;
and I could not help contrasting their ap
pearance with that which they presented on
our first visit. At that time, also, they were
constantly killing, and even eating each other,
for they were cannibals ; but now they were
all, with one accord, bending their knees together
in the worship of the God of peace and love.
The grandfather of the young king expressed
a wish to accompany us to Raiatea ; and, as it
would afford him an opportunity of witnessing
the beneficial effects of the Gospel in the Society

Islands, and be a source of much gratification
to our own people, we thought it desirable to
accede to his request. We were desirous also
that the young king, his grandson, might ac
company him ; for we had an impression that
they might be of great service to us at the vari
ous heathen islands which we intended to visit.
The natives of Rarotonga also were desired
to prepare themselves for their voyage. The
Aitutakians endeavoured to dissuade us from
going to Rarotonga, by assuring us that the
Rarotongans were a most ferocious people, that
they were horrid cannibals, and exceedingly
treacherous ; and they feared, if we went, that
we should lose our lives. This was very im
portant, although discouraging information.
Wishing for a few quiet hours to consult re
specting our future proceedings, we determined
to spend the evening on board the ship. The
gods and bundles of gods, which had escaped
destruction, thirty-one in number, were carried
in triumph to the boat; and we came off to the

imhi

¦^^^^^^: -* -frX| ^*-l2fex^^^lB

¦Ilili*

vessel with the trophies of our bloodless con
quest, " rejoicing as one that findeth great spoil."
After much consultation on the subject, we
determined, at all events, to go in search of
Rarotonga, concluding that the work must have
a commencement ; that it would, at all times,
be attended with danger ; that natives of the
island had been providentially thrown in our
way ; that we had come for the purpose of
attempting to introduce the Gospel among
them; and that, therefore, after taking every
precaution which prudence suggested for our
own safety, we would commit ourselves to the
protection of Him in whose work we were
engaged. We concluded, also, to take Papeiha
with us, as he would be of great service in our
intercourse with the people.
During the time we spent at Aitutaki, many
incidents occurred, of which the following is a
specimen : — •
While walking through the settlement, we
saw two grim-looking gods in a more dishonour
able situation than they had been wont to
occupy, for they were sustaining upon then-
heads the whole weight of the roof of a cook
ing-house. Wishing to make them more useful,
we offered to purchase them from their former
worshipper. He instantly propped up the house,
took out the idols, and threw them down ; and,
while they were prostrate on the ground, he
No. 2.

gave them a kick, saying, " There — your reign
is at an end."
On receiving two fish-hooks, he was highly
delighted. What a revolution of sentiment and
feeling ! A few months before, this man was a
deluded worshipper of these senseless stocks !
After giving the teachers such advice and
instructions as we deemed necessary, and ex
horting tbe chief and people to abandon all
thoughts of war, to treat captains and crews of
ships with kindness, to be upright and honest in
their dealings with them, to be kind to their
teachers, and diligent in attending to their in
structions, we took our leave of Aitutaki with
feelings of the liveliest and most devout grati
tude to God, having derived from the visit
great encouragement to proceed in our work.
We traversed the ocean for several days in
search of Rarotonga, but without success. Dur
ing this time I received from Papeiha an in
teresting detail of the dangers to which the
teachers had been exposed, the labours in which
they had been engaged, and the circumstances
by which the people of Aitutaki had been in
duced to abandon idolatry. It would occupy
too much space to nan-ate more than a few
particulars. On landing, they were led to the
maraes, and given up formally to the gods ; the
poor deluded people, little imagining that, in a
few short months, by the instrumentality of the
c

18

FAVOURABLE IMPRESSIONS.

TBmfw

very persons they were thus dedicating to
them, " theirgods would be famished out of the
land." Subsequently, war had thrice broken
out, and all their property had been stolen
from them. But, when I asked Papeiha if they
were not discouraged by these frequent wars —
" No," he replied, " we knew that all was iii
the hand of God ; and we believed that he
would make it a means of overthrowing idolatry
in the island."
The first favourable impression appears to
have been produced by a tour which the teach
ers made of the island. They stayed a few
days at every district, conversing with the in
habitants, and teaching them the alphabet, and
the Lord's Prayer. On reaching the district of
Tautu, they held, in the presence of a great
assemblage of people, an argument with an old
priest, who vociferated, " Te-erui made all
lands, he made Aitutaki ; and after he had
made it he gave it its present form, by moulding
it with his hands." The teachers answered
that it was not so ; that God alone had power
to create, and that he made Aitutaki, and every
other land. The priest continued vociferating
about the greatness of Te-erui, and asserted that
he was the first man. The teachers asked him
who was Te-erui' s parent. He replied, " O
Te-tareva." They then inquired of him whence
Te-tareva came : he said, " From Avaiki."
Wishing to know where Avaiki was ; he said,
" It is beneath : Te-tareva climbed up from it ;
and because he arrived at the top he was called
by that name ;" whereupon the teachers said
" This land, then, was made before Te-tareva
arrived!" " Most certainly," replied the priest.

" Then," continued they, " how can Te-erui
be the maker of a land which you say was made
before even his parent Te-tareva came up from
beneath !" This appeared to perplex the priest,
and he was silent. They then addressed the
assembled multitude, upon the being of God,
affirming, that before anything was made he
only existed, and that he was without beginning,
and is without end. • From this topic they pro
ceeded to speak of angels, and of one portion of
them falling from their original happiness, which
was followed by a detailed account of the crea
tion of the world. All this was new to the
people ; and the interest excited by the an
nouncement appears to have been intense ; for,
if the slightest noise was made, there was a
general cry of " Be still, be still, let us hear."
Thus encouraged, the teachers went on to
describe the creation of our first parents ; their
being placed in the garden of Eden ; their trans
gression, with its consequences ; and the love
of God in giving his dear Son to die a sacrifice
for sinful man. On hearing which they ex
claimed, with one accord, " Surely this is the
truth ; ours is all deceit." From that time
many began to listen attentively, and to believe
what they heard.

CHAPTER V.

Papeiha's Narrative continued — Remarkable Incidents
at Tahiti — Effect upon the Aitutakians at seeing Lime
burnt — Unsuccessful search for Rarotonga— Go to
Mangaia — Incidents there — Abandon it, in consequence
of the cruel Treatment the Missionaries' Wives ex
perience.
The progress of Christianity at Aitutaki appears
to have been gradual, the converts at times
suffering much from the rage of their heathen
countrymen, until the month of December,
1822, rather more than a year after my first
visit ; when two circumstances contributed to
the utter overthrow of idolatry in this island.
The first was the arrival of the vessel from
Raiatea, which we had promised to send. The
teachers had told the people that a ship would
come to inquire after their welfare, and to bring
them presents and information from their
friends. This was believed by a few ; but the
greater part called them " Two logs of drift
wood, washed on shore by the waves of the
ocean, " and said that no ship would ever come
to inquire after them. Her arrival, however,
set the matter at rest ; and, as the captain
showed kindness to the chiefs, and made several
of them presents of axes and other useful things,
their opposition to the teachers was not a little
subdued.. There being no quadrupeds in the island, but
a few millions of rats, we sent from Raiatea a
number of pigs and goats; with a variety of
useful articles, which our people had contributed .
The teachers gave the pigs and goats to the
king's grandfather, and he, on the following
morning, distributed them among the various
chiefs of the island. A powerful impression
was thus very generally produced in favour of
Christianity. " Behold," said the people, " we

INCIDENTS AT TAHITI.

19

called these men drift-wood, and they have rich
friends, who have sent an English ship to in
quire after them, and bring them property, such
as we never saw before! We ridiculed and
called them liars, and behold they are men
of truth !" A few days after the vessel had
sailed a general wish was expressed by the
people to renounce heathenism, and place them
selves under Christian instruction. The old
grandfather of Tamatoa, however, was firm in
his determination to adhere to his heathen super
stitions ; for being, at this time, in the midst
of an idolatrous feast, which was of several
weeks' continuance, notwithstanding the wishes
of the people, the old chieftain determined to
remain at the marae and complete the sacred
ceremonies. While yet there, a beloved daugh
ter was taken dangerously ill. The priests
were immediately on the alert, presenting nume
rous offerings, and invoking the gods from
'morning to evening, day after day, in order to
induce them to restore the child to health.
The disease, however, increased, and the girl
died. The chief was so much affected at the
death of his daughter, that he determined at
once to abandon the gods who were so ungrate
ful as to requite his zeal with such manifest
unkindness, and therefore sent his son early
next morning to set fire to his marae. Two
other maraes near it caught fire, and were also
consumed. From thence the son, enraged with
the gods for destroying his sister, proceeded to
a large marae, before which the people were
presenting their offerings, and attempted to set
it on fire ; but was prevented by the wor
shippers, who seized and dragged him away.
By such circumstances does God, in number
less instances, work upon the minds of men.
This remark may be illustrated by two import
ant incidents which occurred at Tahiti, one of
which resembled that which took place at
Aitutaki.
*" When Pomare, the king of Tahiti, first de
termined to embrace Christianity, and attempt
the introduction of it among his people, before
taking any decided steps, he convened a num
ber of powerful and influential chiefs, and
stated his wishes to them. Very many made
strong objections to the proposed, innovation ;
but Tenania, and his wife, who were reigning
chiefs of a neighbouring island, cordially ap
proved of the king's proposition, stating that
they themselves had almost come to a deter
mination to burn their god. This feeling had
been induced by the death of a beloved and
only daughter, who was to inherit their titles
and estates; and, as might be expected, was
the object in which their affections centered,
and on whom their hopes were placed. She
was a fine girl, about fifteen or sixteen years of
age ; and when she was unexpectedly taken ill,
every priest of note, far and near, was applied
to, and every god propitiated with the most
costly offerings which it was in the power of
this mighty chief to command. Still the dis
ease increased, and the child died ; and as this
happened only a short time before Pomare
made his important proposition, Tenania and

his wife were well prepared by it to enter most
cordially into the king's wishes ; for they were
bitterly enraged against the gods they had in
vain endeavoured to conciliate. Thus Pomare
had the influence of a powerful chief on his
side, on the very first announcement of his in
tentions. Tapoa, another chief of equal name,
was present at this important consultation.
He was a mighty warrior, the Buonaparte of
the Tahitian and Society Islands ; and, having
conquered all the latter, had come to Tahiti,
ostensibly to assist Pomare in regaining his
ascendancy in that island, but actually to con
quer it for himself. Tapoa was a bigoted
idolater, and, at the meeting in question, ex
pressed his full determination to oppose, in
every possible way, so impious an innovation as
the destruction of the gods. Although ill at
the time, he removed immediately to Tahiti, for
the purpose of making arrangements for the
battles he expected to fight ; but disease made
rapid inroads upon his constitution, and he died
very shortly after he had attended the meeting
of his brother chieftains. It is the general
opinion of intelligent natives to the present day,
that, had Tapoa lived, Christianity could not
then have been introduced among the people.
These events, therefore, show us that, although
the age of miracles has ceased, God has ample
means of effecting the purposes of his love by
the ordinary interpositions of his providence,
which are equally mighty to the pulling down
of the strongholds of heathen superstition, and
in removing obstacles to the progress of his
truth. As at Tahiti, so at Aitutaki, the downfal of
idolatry was accelerated by ordinary occurrences,
in which, however, a Divine agency was too
conspicuous to escape observation. So general
and powerful was the impression on the minds
of the people of Aitutaki, by the circumstances
I have narrated, that, on the Sabbath day after
the death of the chief's daughter, the people of
several districts came, cast their idols at the feet
of the teachers, and professed themselves wor
shippers of Jehovah. During the week the
rest followed ; so that, by the next Sabbath,
not a professional idolater remained in the
whole island. On the third Sabbath in Decem
ber, just about fifteen months after the teachers
landed on their shores, they had the delightful
satisfaction of seeing the whole of the inhabitants
convened to worship the one living and true
God. Having no house which would contain
so great a number of people, they assembled
under the shade of a grove of Barringtonia and
mope, or chestnut-trees, whose interwoven
leaves and thick foliage were at intervals pene
trated by the rays of the sun, while the cooling
breeze from the ocean swept softly among the
branches. At the conclusion of the services of this
memorable day, Papeiha requested the people
to attend a general meeting which was to be
held on the following morning, when subjects
of importance would be brought before them.
At the appointed hour, the whole of the in
habitants of the island assembled, and, after
02

20

VISIT TO MANGAIA.

having spoken to them of the immense labour
they formerly bestowed in the erection of their
maraes in the worship of their false gods, he
exhorted them to let their " strength, devoted-
ness, and steadfastness in the service of the true
God, far exceed." He then made the two
following, propositions : — first, " That all the
maraes in the island should be burned, and that
all the remaining idols should be brought to
him, in order that he might forward them to us
at Raiatea, that we, with our people, might also
rejoice in the triumphs of the Word." The
second proposition was, " That they should
commence immediately building a house in
which to worship Jehovah." To both these
proposals the assembled multitude yielded their
cordial assent. As soon as the meeting broke
up, a. general conflagration of the maraes took
place ; and so complete was the destruction,
that, on the following morning, not a single
idol temple remained unmutilated.
The whole population then came in pro
cession, district after district, the chief and
priest leading the way, and the people following
them, bearing their rejected idols, which they
laid at the teachers' feet, and then received
from them in return a few copies of the Gospels
and elementary books. Thus were the labours
of two comparatively weak instruments rendered
" mighty through God" in effecting the utter
overthrow of an idolatry, dark, debasing, aud
sanguinary, which had shrouded the by-gone
generations of this verdant little island, and
held them bound in its fetters.
They commenced, immediately, the erection
of their chapel. The construction of the Aitu
taki houses being different from those of Tahiti,
and not well adapted for a large building, the
teachers had to attend and direct the builders
in every particular. When the frame-work was
r.p, they took a reed's length of thatch and
thatched up to the ridge pole ; and, when the
people saw how it was done, they were so
diligent in their good work, that in two days
the whole roof, 200 feet in length, was com
pleted. Having been taught at Raiatea the art of
making lime from coral rock, the teachers de
termined to plaster the chapel, and therefore
desired the chiefs to send their people to cut
down a large portion of fire-wood ; and when
this was done, they requested them to send to
the sea for a quantity of coral rock, which was
brought to the shore and piled upon the wood.
The natives did as they were desired, but could
not imagine what all this singular process of
preparation was to effect. At length, the teach
ers requested them to set light to the fire- wood ;
and, as soon as it began to blaze, they could
contain themselves no longer, but commenced
shouting, " Oh these foreigners, they are roast
ing stones ! they are roasting stones ! come,
hurricane, and blow down our bananas and our
bread-fruit ; we shall never suffer from famine
again ; these foreigners are teaching us to roast
stones." The Missionaries told them to wait pa
tiently, and they would seethe result. At day
light the following morning they hastened to the

spot, and, to their utter astonishment, the burnt
coral was reduced to a beautiful powder ; and
they were so surprised and delighted at its softness
and whiteness, that they actually whitewashed
their hats and native garments, and strutted about
the settlement, admiring each other exceedingly,
A space in the chapel being wattled, the teach
ers mixed up a portion of the " roasted stone"
with some sand, and plastered it on the space
which had been prepared, taking care to cover
it up with mats, and to send the people away,
lest, prompted by their curiosity, they should
scratch it down before it became hard. Early
on the next morning they all hastened to see
this wonderful sight. The chiefs and common
people, men, women, and children, hurried to
tbe spot ; and. when the covering was removed,
a sheet of beautifully white plastering was pre
sented to their astonished view. All pressed
forward to examine it ; some smelling it, some
scratching it, whilst others took stones and struck
it, exclaiming, as they retired, " Wonderful, won
derful ! The very stones in the sea, and the sand
on the shore, become good property, in the
hands of those who worship the true God, and
regard his good word." Thus singular and
beneficial was the impression produced by the
introduction of useful arts among this people.
Not succeeding, after six or eight days' search,
in discovering Rarotonga, we steered for Man
gaia. On reaching the island, we descried a
number of the natives, on a sandy beach, waving
a white flag, which is a signal universally under
stood in the islands ofthe Pacific, as intimating
a wish for friendly intercourse, or, rather, that
the parties waving it should be approached.
.We replied by a similar signal, to induce them
to come off to us ; but as they showed no dis
position to accept our invitation, a boat was
lowered from the vessel, and Papeiha, with two
other teachers, approached the shore. We gave
them strict injunctions not to land, but to con
verse with the natives from the boat ; stating
who we were, and the object of our visit, and
to endeavour by all means to induce the chief
of the island to come off with them. The boat
returned without success. After some time two
canoes approached us, and our boat went to
wards them ; on perceiving which, they paddled
away as fast as it was in their power, leaped on
shore, seized their spears, and placed them
selves in an attitude of defence. The boat again
returned without accomplishing the object of
our wishes. The natives came off a third time,
when we sent our boat again towards them,
and, by the exhibition of knives and mother-of-
pearl oyster-shells, they were induced to allow
themselves to be brought to the vessel. After
we had so far succeeded, we found equal diffi
culty in getting any one of them to ascend the
ship, although we presented to them the chiefs
from Aitutaki, and the people of Rarotonga,
who used all their eloquence to convince them
that there was nothing to fear, for that ours was
" a ship of God." After much persuasion, one
man ventured on board ; and the other, as soon
as he perceived that the canoe was unloosed
from the boat, paddled off in great glee, and

BRUTALITY OF THE NATIVES.

21

appeared determined not again to place himself
in so much jeopardy, by approaching the vessel.
The man who had ventured on board was much
agitated : and every muscle in his Herculean
frame appeared in motion. He inquired par
ticularly the vessel's name, saying, that it was
the second they had seen; Tute (Captain Cook's)
being the first. Being near the landing-place,
we proposed that he should accompany the
teachers to the shore ; and, apparently de
lighted with the proposition, with hasty steps
he descended the ship's side into his canoe,
under a pretence of throwing out the water ;
but, finding himself once more safely seated in
his own little bark, he untied the rope and
paddled away as if for his life, not staying even
to gaze upon the dangers he had escaped.
Thus our hopes were again blasted. In a con
sultation upon the subject with the teachers,
Papeiha said to us that he should have no
objection to land among them. There being no
openings in the reef, through which the boat
could pass to the shore, with a readiness and
devotedness that heightened him in the estima
tion of every one present, he offered to leap into
the sea, and swim through the surf. Being
accoutred for his daring exploit, he went into
the boat, and, on reaching the reef, which ex
tended but a few yards from the shore, he per
ceived that the natives were all armed, some
with stones in their slings, and others with their
spears poised, ready in a moment to defend
their island against the expected invasion.
Papeiha addressed them, saying, that we were
peaceably disposed, and that he was coming on
shore ; but unless they would tie their spears
in bundles with their slings, he would not
venture among them. They immediately did
as he proposed, when this devoted man dived
into the sea, and was born on the top of a
billow to the shore. Encouraged by his kind
reception, he stated to the chiefs and the as
sembled multitude who we were, and what was
the object of our visit ; and also informed them
that we had with us two teachers and their
wives, whom it was our wish to settle among
them. They told him that they should be glad
to receive instruction, and requested that he
would go to the vessel, and return with the
teachers immediately. Papeiha accordingly
came off, and informed us of all that had taken
place ; stating, at the same time, that he
thought they were an inoffensive people, and that
no danger was to be apprehended from them.
Some property was immediately put into the
boat; and two teachers, with their wives,
attended by our veteran pioneer, went to the
shore. By the time of their return, the natives had
unloosed their spears, and again presented a
formidable appearance, but, upon being desired
to bind them up, as they had done before, they
did so, and our people landed. No sooner had
the teachers reached the shore, than there was
a general seizure of their persons and property.
One of them had a saw, which the natives
grasped, broke into three pieces, and tied to
their ears as ornaments. A box of bonnets,

intended as presents for the chiefs wives, was
dragged through the water. Of their bedsteads,
one took one post, another another, and ran
off with their booty. A number of bamboos of
cocoa-nut oil were landed, which they poured
so profusely on each other's heads, that it
streamed down their bodies till they glistened
as they stood in the sunbeams. Among other
things, there were two pigs, animals they had
never seen before. These were taken by a
chief, who, casting off his own garments, de
corated the pigs in the insignia of chieftainship,
and sent them into the presence of their
majesties, the gods. But what completed the
catastrophe "was their conduct to the poor females,
the teachers' wives, whom they carried into the
woods, and were proceeding to treat with great
brutality, when, terrified at the report of a small
cannon which we fired off from the vessel, they
ran away. We immediately sent the boat, and
brought our people off to the vessel ; and cer
tainly their appearance was truly deplorable.
Their hats and bonnets had been torn from their
heads : they had been dragged through water
and through mud, and their shirts and gowns
were hanging in ribands about them. Papeiha
upbraided the chief with his perfidious conduct
in inviting them on shore, and then suffering
them to be ill-treated. He told him, also, that
they, like himself and his people , were formerly
ignorant of the true God, and the way of sal
vation by Jesus Christ ; but that Christians from
England had come to instruct them, and that
now they were desirous of imparting the know
ledge of the same precious truths to others.
The chief wept, and assured him of his sorrow ;
but stated, that, in his island, " all heads being
of an equal height," his influence was not
sufficient to protect them ; and therefore, much
as he himself wished them to stay, he would
rather they did not come on shore again. The
chief, it must be allowed, did everything in his
power to protect them, and succeeded in rescu
ing one of the females when in the extremity of
peril. The husbands, being thrown and held
down by the natives, were prevented from ren
dering any assistance to their wives ; and our
valuable Missionary, Papeiha, nearly lost his
life, for they put a tiputa* over his head, and
commenced twisting it for the purpose of strang
ling him ; but happily he had the presence of
mind to introduce his hand into the aperture,
which preserved his throat.
Thus our pleasing anticipations were frus
trated, and our poor people suffered " the loss
of all things," in attempting to introduce the
Gospel into Mangaia.
We left the island with feelings of deep regret,
but resolved to embrace the first opportunity
of sending two single men, who, we had every
reason to hope, would suffer no other incon
venience than the loss of their property. Ac
cordingly a, few months after our return to
Raiatea, as the Deputation intended to touch at
* The tiputa is, like the Spanish poncho, a piece of
cloth about three quarters of ayard wide and three yards
Ion™ with a slit in the centre, through which the head is
put" so that the garment hangs down -before and behind.

22

CONVERSION OF THE KING OF ATIU.

Mangaia on their way to New South Wales, it
was determined that some native teachers
should accompany them. Davida and Tiere,
two unmarried members of the church at Tahaa,
offered their services to carry the Gospel to that
island, and, on reaching it, these two devoted
men, as Papeiha had done before them, leaped
into the sea and swam to the shore, taking
nothing with them but the light dresses which
they wore, and a portion of the New Testament
in the Tahitian language, which was carefully
wrapped up and tied upon their heads. Con
trary to expectation, they were kindly received,
an afflicting dispensation of Providence having
very much subdued the violent spirit of the
. people, and prepared the way before them ; for,
soon after our visit, a disease broke out which
proved exceedingly fatal; the infant and the
aged, the chieftain and the peasant, falling
alike beneath its deadly influence. Ascribing
this calamitous visitation to the vengeance of
the " God ofthe strangers," whom they had ill-
treated, they collected all the property which
had been taken from us, and cast it into an
immense cavern in one of the mountains ;
making a vow to " the God of the strangers,"
that, " if he would suspend the execution of his
vengeance, and conduct his worshippers again
to their island, they would receive them kindly,
and give them food to eat."
Thus again we had the pleasing task of re
cognising the timely interposition of an all-wise
and overruling Providence, adapting the means
he employs to the circumstances of the people
whose minds are to be Influenced. And it
must be allowed that the event just narrated
was calculated to produce as powerful an im
pression upon the minds of such a people, as if
they had been the eye-witnesses of a miraculous
display of Divine power.

CHAPTER VI.

Visit to Atiu — Conversion of the King — The power of
Scripture Truth— The Discovery of Mauke— Introduc
tion of Christianity into it and Mitiaro— Lord Byron's
Testimony— Regard to the Sabbath-day by a Native
Crew— Go again in search of Rarotonga.
On leaving Mangaia, we steered for Atiu. To
this island, our brother Missionary, Mr. Ors-
rnond, had sent two teachers, some two or three
months before our arrival. We found them in
a most pitiable condition, having been stripped
by the natives of every article of property, suf
fering exceedingly from hunger, and much
disheartened by their want of success. We had
not been long near the island, when we per
ceived a large double canoe approaching us, in
the centre of which, on an elevated stage, was
seated the principal chief. His person was
tall and slender, and his aspect commanding.
He was clothed in a white shirt, having a piece
of Indian print girt around his loins ; his long
and beautiful black hair hung .gracefully over
his shoulders, or waved in the passing breeze,

as, with the motion of his body, he kept time
to the rowers. We gave him a hearty welcome
on board. Our friend from Aitutaki was so full
of zeal for the conversion of his brother chief
tain, that as soon as he reached the deck he led
him away from us, and commenced his work by
informing him that the maraes of Aitutaki were
demolished, the great idols burnt, and the
smaller ones onboard the ship, tc be conveyed to
Raiatea,_the island from which the teachers came
who had instructed him. To this he added, that
a large whits house made of" toka tunu," burnt
or roasted stone, bad been erected, and dedi
cated to the worship of Jehovah, who was the
only true God. " All our offerings to our false
gods," continued this now Christian chief, his
countenance gleaming with animation as he
spoke, " cannot procure us pardon : but God
has given his Son Jesus Christ to die for us, and
through Him mercy is bestowed. I am come,"
said he, "to advise you to receive the good
word. Our gods were one formerly, mme are
now all abandoned, many of them destroyed ;
let us both worship one God again, but let it be
the true God." In confirmation of his state
ments, he led the astonished chieftain into the
hold of the vessel, and exhibited to his view
their once dreaded, and, as they imagined,
powerful gods, which were lying there in degra
dation. By some circumstance, which I do not
now recollect, this chief was induced to remain
on board during the night, and the following
day, being Sabbath, he attended worship. In
the course of my address, I read and commented
upon what is said by David and Isaiah in re
ference to idols. The mind of Roma-tane was
powerfully impressed by these vivid represent
ations of the folly of ' idolatry, especially by
the words, " with part thereof he roasteth roast,
and is satisfied : and the residue thereof he
maketh a god, and worshippeth, it, and prayeth
unto it, and saith, Deliver me, for thou art my
god." Nothing could be better calculated to
make an impression on the mind of an intelligent
South Sea islander than these inimitable verses
of inspired truth ; indeed, the effect is likely to
be far greater than that produced on the mind
of an English reader. The natives have two
words not very much unlike, but expressive of
opposite ideas, — moa and noa, the moa meaning
sacred, and noa the very reverse of sacred. All
that pertains to the gods is the superlative of
moa; and all that pertains to food, and the
cooking of food, the superlative of noa. The
idea now, for the first time, darted, with irre
sistible force into the mind of Roma-tane ; and
he perceived at once the excessive folly of
making a god and cooking food from one and
the same tree ; thus uniting the two opposite
extremes, the moa and the noa. The astonished
chief appeared for some time lost in wonder.
At length he retired and spent the whole of the
night in conversation with the teachers and
chiefs from Aitutaki about the wonderful truths
he had heard, frequently rising up, and stamp
ing with astonishment that he should have been
deluded so long, and expressing his determina
tion never again to worship his idol gods.

HIS ZEAL AT ALITIARO.

23

" Eyes, it is true," said he, " they have, but
wood cannot see ; ears they have, but wood
cannot hear."
Very early the following day, the teachers
came to us with this pleasing intelligence ; and,
in a subsequent conversation with the chief, he
expressed to us his full determination to demo
lish his maraes, to burn his idols, and to com
mence immediately erecting a house for the
worship of Jehovah. We proposed that he
should accompany us to the Society Islands ; to
which he objected, saying, that he should not
go under the same favourable circumstances as
his brother chief from Aitutaki ; besides which,
he wished at once to commence the good work,
and expressed a desire to purchase an axe from
us, with which to cut down trees for the posts
of " God's house." The chief was now in
haste to leave us ; but, having heard that there
were two small islands in the vicinity of Atiu,
one of which was unknown to Europeans, we
determined to go in search of them ; and, learn
ing that Roma-tane was the chief, we proposed
that he should accompany us, and use his in
fluence in procuring a favourable reception for
the teachers who were repulsed from Mangaia.
In addition to this motive, we thought that a
few days' further intercourse with us might
prove beneficial to our new convert, and were
therefore glad when he acceded to our proposal.
The first evidence which he gave of his sincerity
was an authoritative command that no person
should cut and scratch their heads and faces on
account of his absence ; which they commonly
do, under such circumstances, with sharp stones
and sharks' teeth.
On our arrival at Mitiaro the king sent for
the resident chief of the island, to whom he stated
that the object of his visit was to exhort him
and the people to burn the maraes, abandon
the worship of their gods, and place themselves
under the instruction of a teacher whom we
were about to leave with them, and who would
teach them the word and worship of the true
God, Jehovah. He wished, moreover, that the
house they were erecting for himself should be
converted into a house of prayer, under the
direction of the teacher. The people listened
with astonishment, and inquired if the gods
would not be all enraged, and strangle them.
" No," replied the king, " it is out ofthe power of
the wood, that we have adorned and called a god,
to kill us." " But," said one, must we bum
" Tarianuif" or Great Ears.* " Yes," replied
the king, " commit him and all the evil spirits
to the flames." He then requested them to
behave with kindness to Taua, the teacher, and
give attention to his instructions. Having
asked the king if he would not come to the
celebration of the great festival which he had
ordered them to prepare, he replied that he
should, but that it would be on different busi
ness. " I shall come," said the chief, " to
behpld your steadfastness in this good work,
and your kindness to the teachers you have
received." * The name of a god of which the king himself was the
priest.

Having been graciously prospered to the
utmost bounds of our expectation at Mitiaro,
we proceeded, with grateful hearts and excited
expectations, in search of Mauke, which we
succeeded in finding without much difficulty,
the chief having directed us correctly. On
arriving at this island, the king conducted the
teacher and his wife to the shore. Tararo, the
chief, with a number of the people, were wait
ing on the beach to welcome their king. The
first words he uttered as he leaped on shore
were, " I am come to advise you to receive the
word of Jehovah, the true God, and to leave
with you a teacher and his wife, who will in
struct you. Let us destroy our maraes, and
burn all the evil spirits with fire : never let us
worship them again. They are wood, which
we have carved and decorated, and called gods.
Here is the true God and his word, and a
teacher to instruct you. The true God is
Jehovah, and the true sacrifice is his Son Jesus
Christ." He exhorted them also to erect a
house in which to worship the true God, and to
be diligent in learning his good word. After
the astonishment produced by the king's address
had subsided a little, the natives replied, that, as
he assured them it was a " good word and
brought salvation," they would receive it, and
place themselves under the instruction of the
teacher. Roma-tane then invited the principal
chief Tararo and his wife to attend family wor
ship that evening, to which they consented.
After this they inquired of the king when they
might expect him at the great festival which they
were preparing for him ; and at another, called
Takurua, at which the most obscene ceremo
nies were performed. He replied, " all those
infamous customs, connected with the worship
of their false gods, should now be abandoned ;
but that he would visit them again, to behold
their steadfastness in the good word." After
this he exhorted the people to behave kindly to
Haavi and his wife, and to supply them with
plenty of food. He then gave them a new
house, which had been erected for himself,
shook hands with them affectionately, and came
on board the vessel. Were three islands ever
converted from idolatry in so short a time ! so
unexpectedly ! — islands almost unknown, and
two never before visited by any European
vessel ! In, as it were, one day, they were in
duced to consent to the destruction of objects
which former generations had venerated, and
which they themselves looked upon as most
sacred. It is a pleasing reflection, that the very first
vessel which visited the islands of Mitiaro and
Mauke carried to them the glad tidings of sal
vation. In this people the words of the
Psalmist have a striking fulfilment : " As soon
as they hear of me, they shall obey me ; the
strangers shall submit themselves unto me."
The sun had risen with his wonted splendour,
gilding the eastern heavens with his glory ; and
little did the inhabitants of Mauke and Mitiaro
imagine, that before he retired beneath the
horizon in the western sky, Ichabod would be
written upon the idolatry of their ancestors.

24

CAPTAIN LORD BYRON'S TESTIMONY.

How sudden and unexpected, at times, are the
gifts of a bountiful Providence ! How unlooked
for, unsought, the communications of God's
mercy ! The king of Atiu came on board of
our vessel to gratify his curiosity, and was at
that time a bigoted idolater, having even
threatened to put the teachers to death; but
was induced to embrace the truth himself — to
use his influence in overthrowing the supersti
tions of ages in two islands — and then to return
to his own with a full determination to do the
same there. Could we be restrained from ex
claiming, " It is the Lord's doing, and it is
marvellous in our eyes!" Our troubles at
Mangaia were forgotten in the joy we now ex
perienced, ahd the present failure at that island
was compensated by the abundant success
which attended us here.
The next vessel which visited Mauke was
his Majesty's superb frigate, the Blonde, com
manded by the Hon. Captain Lord Byron, who
had just conveyed the bodies- of the deceased
chiefs of the Sandwich Islands to their own
country. From the published narrative of that
voyage I present the following extract t —
Extract from the Voyage of H. M. Ship Blonde,
Captain the Right Hon. Lord Byron, Commander.
" On the 8th of August, to our great surprise,
land was descried from the mast-head ; and,
as it was uncertain, from its position, whether
it was one of the islands discovered by Captain
Cook, we bore up for it. A boat was lowered,
and Mr. Maiden, with a reconnoitring party,
proceeded towards the shore, with strict injunc
tions, however, to be very cautious in endeavour
ing to ascertain the disposition of the natives,
before he attempted to land among them. On
our approaching the island, we attempted, by
signs, to induce a man to swim off to the boat ;
this he naturally enough refused to do ; but,
from his gesticulations, we understood that
there was no landing-place there ; yet on the
other side of the island we should find one.
" Next morning we proceeded to the Ice-
side of the island, and, perceiving several
canoes coming oft* to us, we lay-to for them.
The first that reached us was a single man,
whose costume soon convinced us that we were
not the first visiters of this solitary place. He
wore a straw hat, shaped like a common
English hat ; and, besides his maro, or waist-
cloth, he wore a cloak of tapa, of the same form
with the South American poncho. While we
were questioning our visiter, another canoe of
very singular construction came alongside of us.
Two persons, who, by their dress and appear
ance, seemed to be of some importance, now
stepped on board, and, to our great surprise,
produced a written document from that branch
of the London Missionary Society settled at
Otaheite, qualifying them to act as teachers
in the island of Mauke. They were very fine-
looking men, dressed in cotton shirts, cloth
jackets, and a sort of petticoat of very fine mat,
instead of trousers.
" They w-ere much astonished at everything
they saw on beard the frigate, though it ap

peared they were not ignorant of the use of
guns and other things ; but they evidently had
never seen so large a vessel. The galley-fire,
and the players on wind instruments in the
band, seemed to surprise and delight them more
than anything. Our bread they ate, after
smelling it; but it is impossible to describe
their faces of disgust on tasting the wine.
" As soon as their curiosity was satisfied, we
determined to avail ourselves of their local know
ledge as guides, and to go on shore. We em
barked in two boats, taking one of the Mission
aries in each ; but we found the surf on the
beach so violent that we got into the natives'
canoes, trusting to their experience for taking
us safely through : this they did with admirable
dexterity ; and our passage in the canoes con
vinced us that no boat of ours could have effected
a landing. When we arrived, it appeared as it
the whole male population had assembled to
greet us ; the only two women, however, were
the wives of the Missionaries, decently clothed
from head to foot. Each individual of this
numerous assembly pressed forward to shake
hands, and seemed unhappy till this sign of
friendship had passed : this ceremony being
over, they conducted us towards their habita
tions, which were about two miles inland. Our
path lay through a thick shady wood, on the
skirts of which, in a small open space, two
handsome canoes were building. They were
each eighty feet long ; the lower part, as usual,
of a single tree, hollowed out with great skill.
The road was rough over the fragments of coral,
but it wound agreeably through the grove, which
improved in beauty as we advanced ; and at j
length, to our surprise and pleasure, terminated
in a beautiful green lawn, where were two of
the prettiest white-washed cottages imaginable —
the dwellings of the Missionaries.
" The inside of their dwellings corresponded
with their exterior neatness. The floors were
boarded : there were a sofa and some chairs of
native workmanship ; windows, with Venetian
shutters, rendered the apartments cool and
agreeable. The rooms were divided from each
other by screens of tapa, and the floor was
covered with coloured varnished tapa, resembling
oil-cloth. We were exceedingly struck with
the appearance of elegance and cleanliness of
all around us, as well as with the modest and
decorous behaviour of the people, especially the
women. " After partaking of the refreshment offered
us by our hostess, which consisted of a baked
pig, bread-fruit, and yams, we accompanied the
Missionaries to their church. It stands on
rising ground, about four hundred yards from
the cottages A fence composed of the trunks
of coca-nut trees surrounds the area in which
it stands. Its form is oval, and the roof is sup
ported by four pillars, which bear up the ridge.
It is capable of containing two hundred persons.
Two doors and twelve windows give it light
and air ; the pulpit and reading-desk are neatly
carved and painted with a variety of prettv
designs, and the benches for the people are
arranged nearly round. Close to the church is

NATIVE EXPRESSIONS OF WONDER.

25

the burying-place, which is a. mound of earth
covered with green sward; and the whole has
an air of modest simplicity, which delighted no
less than surprised us."
After giving a short account of the introduc
tion of Christianity among this interesting
people, the writer proceeds : —
" Thus, in one day, and that the first in
which a vessel from the civilised world touched
there, the superstitions of ages were overturned,
and the knowledge of the true God brought
among a docile, and, generally speaking, inno
cent people.
" On our return to the beach, one ofthe mis
sionaries accompanied us. As we retraced our
steps through the wood, the warbling of the
birds, whose plumage was as rich as it was new
to us — the various-tinted butterflies that flut
tered across our path — the delicious climate—
the magnificent forest-trees — and above all, the
perfect union and harmony existing among the
natives — presented a succession of agreeable
pictures' which could not fail to delight us."
I called at the island shortly after the visit of
the Blonde. The Missionaries and people
spoke with gratitude and delight of the kindness
shown to them by Lord Byron and other gentle
men, while they exhibited the valuable presents
which had been received from their generous
visiters. The work at Atiu was equally rapid. Messrs.
Tyerman and Bennet were the next visiters to
that island ; and the first intelligence they re
ceived on approaching it was, that the whole
population had renounced their idols, and had
built a large chapel. This great work had
been accelerated by the arrival of- a boat of
mine, which had been sent to Tahiti, to com
municate the painful intelligence of the death
of Mrs. Threlkeld, the. wife of my excellent
coadjutor. She arrived in safety at Tahiti,
but, on her return to Raiatea, lost her way ;
we therefore concluded that she had sunk, and
that the crew had perished at sea. But in this
we were happily mistaken; for, after having
been driven about the ocean for six weeks,
during which time they suffered exceedingly
from hunger and thirst, they reached Atiu.
Here, by the attention of their brethren the
teachers, and the hospitality of Roma-tane,
they soon regained both flesh and strength.
Several of them immediately united with the
teachers in preaching the Gospel and instructing
the people : the effect of which was, that the re
maining half of the population, till then un
converted, believed, and cast away their idols.
" Now we know," said many, " that this reli
gion is true ; for these people could not have
come here to deceive us ; they were driven by
the waves of the ocean, and, behold, they have
their books with them ; and the God to whom
they prayed has preserved them." Here, again,
we have another striking indication of an over
ruling Providence, and are shown how dis
tressing events are often made subservient to
God's designs of mercy : " His ways are past
finding out." The crew in this boat would, in

all probability, have perished, had it not been
for a little pot of rice, which a friend had sent to
Mrs. Williams. They had exhausted all their
food, and long before had drunk every drop
of water ; when they divided out the rice,
and ate it, a grain at a time, moistening their
mouths, by dipping the fibrous husk of the
cocoa-nut in oil, and thoroughly masticating it.
They spent their time in reading the Scriptures,
singing hymns, and praying to God to preserve
them from perishing by famine, or being drowned
in the ocean. So great was the regard they
paid to the Sabbath that the individual who
had charge of the boat informed me, that on
one occasion a large fish continued near them
for a considerable time, which they could
easily have caught; but, although nearly
famished they held a consultation whether it
was right for them to take it, and determined
" that they would not catch fish on a Sabbath-
day." God graciously heard their prayers;
conducted them to Atiu ; rendered them useful
there, and afterwards restored them to their
relatives and friends. I mention this circum
stance to show the tenderness of their con
sciences, and not as approving of the ignorance
in which it originated. Had they known the
meaning of the Saviour's words, " I will have
mercy, and not sacrifice," they would of course
have taken the fish.
A variety of interesting little incidents L oc
curred at Mauke and Mitiaro, where .the
natives had never before seen Europeans, or
European animals. The simple-hearted inha
bitants were much astonished at our appearance,
took hold of our hands, smelt us, turned up our.
sleeves, examined us most minutely, and, being
delighted with the whiteness of our skin, con
cluded that we must be very great chiefs.. _ .
When the boat was put into the sea,-, they
involuntarily shouted, " It wiU -upset ! it will
upset ! it has no outriggger !" On seeing the
goats, they called to their companions to come
and look at the wonderful "birds with great
teeth upon their heads." These innocent ex
pressions of ignorant astonishment, with others
too numerous to mention, show the impression
made upon a barbarous people by their first
intercourse with civilised man. Our fish-hooks
they looked upon with ineffable contempt ;
and, placing them beside the thick hooks made
from cocoa-nut shells, pearl-shells, and wood,
exclaimed, "If the fish break these that are
so thick and strong, alas ! for such slender
things !"
We had still one more island to seek ; and,
finding Roma-tane exceedingly intelligent, we
inquired of him if he had ever heard of Raro
tonga. " Oh, yes," . he replied ; " it is only a
day and a night's sail from Atiu ; we know the
way there." This information delighted us ;
but, when we inquired the position in which it
lay, he at one time pointed in one direction,
and at another in quite the opposite. But this
was soon explained ; for the natives, in making
their voyages, do not leave from any part of an
island, as we do, but, invariably, have what
may be called starting-points. At these places

26

RAROTONGA DISCOVERED.

they have certain land-marks, by which they
steer, until the stars become visible ; and they
generally contrive to set sail so as to get sight
of their heavenly guides by the time their land
marks disappear. Knowing this, we determined
to adopt the native plan, and took our vessel
round to the " starting-point." Having arrived
there, the chief was desired to look to the
land-marks, while the vessel was being turned
gradually round, and when these ranged with
each other he cried out, " That's it! that is it!"
I looked immediately at the compass, and found
the course to be S.W. by W. ; and it proved to
be as correct as if he had been an accomplished
navigator. I mention this circumstance, be
cause I think it of universal importance to all
persons, in every scientific or other expedition,
who seeks information from natives, to allow
them to communicate it in then- own way. I
was struck a few days ago, in reading the
address of R. King, Esq., the surgeon of the
Northern Expedition, with the statement
" That the expedition had failed to derive
advantage from the information of the natives,
by perplexing them with questions, and pre
senting doubts, instead of allowing them, with
charcoal, to draw a rough chart upon a piece of
board," &c. So it was with us ; and, had we
not adopted the method we did, in all proba
bility Rarotonga would have been unblessed
with the knowledge of salvation to the present
day. When we had accomplished all we could at
Atiu, a large double canoe cam.e off for our
interesting guest, to whom we presented an
axe or two, " to cut down trees for posts for
the house of God," with some other useful
articles. He then took an affectionate farewell
of us, seated himself upon his elevated stage,
beat time to the rowers, and hastened on shore
to carry the important purposes of his mind
into execution ; — not, as he came on board, a
bigoted idolater, but a convert to the truth.

CHAPTER VII.

Rarotonga discovered — Pleasing and distressing Inci
dents there — Papeiha's devoted Conduct— Conversation
between a Native Sailor and the King — Remarkable
Incident of a Heathen Woman — Return Home— Exhi
bition ofthe Idols— Native Speeches, &c.
Aftek leaving Atiu, we were baffled -and per
plexed for several days by contrary winds.
Our provisions were nearly expended, and our
patience all but exhausted, when, early in the
morning of the day on which we discovered the
island, the captain came to me, and said, " We
must, Sir, give up the search, or we shall all be
starved." I replied, that we would continue
our course till eight o'clock, and, if we did not
succeed by that time, we would return home.
This was an hour of great anxiety ; hope and
fear alternately agitated my mind. I had sent
a native to the top of the mast four times, and

he was now ascending for the fifth ; and when
we were within half an hour of relinquishing
the object of our search, the clouds which
enveloped its towering heights having been
chased away by the heat of the ascending sun,
he relieved us from our anxiety by shouting
" Teie teie, tatiafenua, ncil" Here, here is the
land we have been seeking ! The transition of
feeling was so instantaneous and so great, that,
although a' number of years have intervened, I
have not forgotten the sensations which that
announcement occasioned. The brightened
countenances, the joyous expressions, and the
lively congratulations of all on board, showed
that they shared in the same emotions ; nor
die we fail to raise our voices in grateful
acknowledgement to Him who had graciously
" led us by a right way."
It would be pleasant to linger here, and to
describe the varied feelings we experienced, as
the lovely island unveiled its beauties to our
view. The high mountains, the rocky emi
nences, and the luxuriant valleys, called forth
our admiration ; the recollection of the degraded
state of the inhabitants extorted the tear of
sympathy ; while the doubtful nature of our re
ception awakened intense solicitude. We
"wondered and held our peace, to wit, whether,
the Lord would make om- journey prosperous
or not."
On reaching the island, the canoe we pur
chased at Aitutaki was sent on shore, with one
of the natives of Rarotonga, Vahineino, and
Papeiha. Meeting with a most favourable re
ception, a consultation was immediately held
with an immense assemblage of the natives,
under the shade of a grove of Temanu trees ;
when the teachers stated the object of our
voyage, informed the people of the renunciation
of idolatry at the various islands we had visited,
and added, that we had brought their own
people from Aitutaki, with Christian teachers,
whom it was our wish to leave at their island,
to instruct them in the knowledge of the true
God, and the way of salvation, by his Son
Jesus Christ. All appeared delighted, and the
king determined to come on board and conduct
them to the shore.
We gave him a most cordial welcome, and
introduced to him his people; among whom
was his own cousin. He was particularly
delighted to see her; they rubbed noses most
cordially, and fell on each other's neck and
wept. After much interesting intercourse, it
was arranged that the teachers, with their
wives, the natives of Rarotonga, and Papeiha,
should accompany the king on shore. They
did so ; and we stood off for the night, rejoicing
and praising God for all the delightful and im
portant events of the day.
The king, whose name is Makea, is a hand
some man in the prime of life, about six feet
high, and very stout ; of noble appearance, and
of a truly commanding aspect. His complexion
is light ; and, at the time of which I write, his
body was most beautifully tatooed, and slightly
coloured with a preparation of turmeric and
ginger, which gave it a light orange tinge, and,

NATIVE SAILOR AND THE KING.

27

in the estimation of the Rarotongans, added
much to the beauty of his appearance.
Early on the following morning the teachers,
with their wives, came off to the vessel ; and, to
our surprise and deep regret, gave us an account
of the terrible treatment the females had ex
perienced during the greater part of the night,
who exhibited their tattered garments in confir
mation of their tale of woe. It appears that a
powerful chief, who had conquered the principal
part of the island, had come with a large
retinue, for the purpose of taking one of the
female teachers as his wife. He had already
nineteen, and the teacher was to have been the
twentieth, and the chief of the seraglio.
Tapairu, the cousin of Makea, who was a
person of influence, and a woman of great
intrepidity, argued, wept, and even fought for
the preservation of those from whom she had
received so much kindness ; and to her alone,
under God, may we attribute the deliverance
on that trying occasion. All the chiefs were
anxious that the teachers should remain, affirm
ing that it would be very good for the men to
teach them the word of God; and for the chiefs
to have their wives.
These statements will give the reader some
idea of the licentiousness of heathenism, as it
exists before one ray of Christian light has
beamed upon its darkness. It so outrages all
decency, that the heart is hurried away in
horror and disgust from the contemplation of
the deep moral degradation into which our race
is sunk.Discouraged by the reception we had met
with, we were about, for a time, to abandon
this inviting field of labour, when our excellent
friend Papeiha, instead of uniting with us in
useless regrets, offered to remain alone at Ra
rotonga, provided we would send a coadjutor,
whom he named, from Raiatea. We rejoiced
in the proposition ; and, leaving his property in
the vessel, after taking an affectionate farewell
of us, this truly devoted man got into a canoe
and went on shore, carrying nothing with him
but the clothes he wore, his native Testament,
and a bundle of elementary books. The two
men and four women natives of Rarotonga,
whom we had brought from Aitutaki, had all
embraced Christianity some time before, and
promised steadfastly to maintain their profession
among their heathen countrymen. Thus Papeiha
was not left desolate, but surrounded by a little
- company who were ardently attached to him,
and who were indebted to his instructions for
all they knew of the religion of the Gospel.
We left him with a prayer that his little flock
might become the germ of a Christian church
in Rarotonga, and that by their instrumentality
the incorruptible seed of the Word might be
scattered throughout its numerous population.
Nor were we disappointed; for, by the time
Tiberio.'Papeiha's colleague, arrived, which was
about four months after our departure, he and
his little band had received many additions to
their number! And when our esteemed friends,
Messrs. Ty erman and Behnet, visited the island,
which was but little more than a year after its

discovery, the whole population had renounced
idolatry, and were engaged in erecting a place
of worship, six hundred feet in length !
To this speedy and delightful result of our
labours, the various conversations which our
people had held with the natives may, in a
great measure, have contributed. Our native
sailor, Faaori, who was the bearer of the mes
sage from Aitutaki, was busily employed during
the whole of our stay in hearing and answering
their questions. One inquired of him where
Tahnoana, the great drum, was, which the two
priests, Paoauri and Paoatea, took to Raiatea !
Another demanded, "Why did you Raiateans
kill those men, whose death induced the gods
to remove our island to its present situation!"*
The king was anxious to know where great
Tangaroa was. Faaori replied " He is burned,
and we shall never worship him again." He
then asked if many of the people were not
strangled by the gods in anger ; and was assured
that not a single individual was hurt. The
king then inquired who burned the gods, — the
Cookees,f or Tamatoa and his people! Faaori
told him that the Cookees had taught them the
folly of idolatry, and had given them instruction
in the word and worship of Jehovah, the true
God, and that they themselves destroyed the
maraes and burned the gods. The king in
quired of Faaori who was the first man,
according to the Cookees' account! He re
plied, Adam. The people affirmed that it was
Tiki. Faaori then asked them who was the
first woman! they answered, Tiki's wife.
He inquired of them where she had come from !
To this question they could give no answer.
He then told them the first woman's name was
Eve, and that she was a rib taken out of the
first man that Jehovah made. They inquired
how that was possible! He informed them
that God caused a deep sleep to fall upon the
first man, and took out a rib, of which he made
the first woman. This was all new to them,
and they listened with intense interest to his
statements — many exclaiming, " Perhaps this is
truth." They then asked whether the bodies
of those who embraced this Word would die !
Faaori told them that the body would die, but
that the soul was described in the word of God
as of the greatest value, and that the souls of all
who believed in Jesus Christ would live for
ever. Having inquired how the Raiateans
acted in war, he informed them that, while in
the service of Satan, they were exceedingly
cruel to each other ; that women were barbar
ously treated, and that children had skewers
run through their ears, and were strung
together ; but that now they had ceased to
fight, and, instead of being pierced with spears,
or beat to death with the clubs of the warriors,
* This evidently shows that the Rarotongans have the
same traditions as the Raiateans; and by the variety of
information they possessed relative to the Society Islands
generally, but most especially Raiatea, that being the
grand emporium of idolatry, it is certain that at some
former period more frequent communication must have
existed between the islanders.
+ A name given bv the natives to all linghsli people,
from their having heard of Captain Cook.

EXHIBITION OF IDOLS— NATIVE SPEECHES.

they died in peace in their own habitations,
surrounded by their friends.
"And," continued this useful man, " out of
pure compassion, we have come to bring these
blessings to you, before you entirely destroy
each other by your wars, and the worship of
your infamous gods." The natives then asked
Faaori what the " tuetue " was ! As he did not
comprehend this, they knelt down, shut their
eyes, and began to mutter ; when he understood
their meaning, and informed them that it was
prayer, and that, while they were ill-treating
the teachers, they were praying to God Jehovah
to change their hearts, and incline them to
receive the word of salvation.
But perhaps the following most remarkable
circumstance may have contributed in no small
degree to induce the people thus speedily to
embrace the truth : — A heathen woman had, by
some means or other, been conveyed from the
island of Tahiti to Rarotonga, and on her arrival
she informed the Rarotongans of all the wonders
she had seen ; stating that they were not the
only people in the world; that there were others
entirely white, whom they called Cookees ; that
Captain Cook had been to her island ; and that,
subsequently to his visit, the servants of Jehovah,
and Jesus Christ, the white man's God, had
come and were still residing there ; that at her
island they had ceased to use stone axes for
hewing their trees, for those servants of Jehovah,
and others, had brought sharp things which they
called cpahi, with which they could cut them
down with the greatest facility ; that they had
also ceased to use human bones as tools for
making canoes and building houses, for the
same people had brought them sharp hard things,
with which they could effect their work with far
greater ease ; that their children did not now
cry and scream while they had their hair cut,
as they formerly did, when it was performed
with sharks' teeth, for the Cookees had brought
them bright things, which were so sharp that
the operation afforded pleasure rather than
pain ; and that they had no need now to go
down to the water to look at themselves, because
these wonderful people had brought them small
shining things, which they could carry about
with them, and in which they could see them
selves as plainly as they could see each other.
These, with a variety of other " mea tu ke," or
very strange things, which this heathen female
told the astonished inhabitants of this secluded
garden of the ocean, excited so much interest,
that the king, Makea, called one of his children
" Tehovah," (Jehovah,) and another " Teetee-
try" (Jesus Christ). An uncle of theking, who
we hope at this time is a truly good man, erected
an altar to Jehovah and Jesus Christ, to which
persons afflicted with all manner of diseases were
brought to be healed; and so great was the
reputation which this marae obtained, that the
power of Jehovah and Jesus Christ became great
in the estimation of the people.
With grateful hearts we now turned our faces
homewards ; where, after eight or ten days' sail,
we arrived in safety. And, as other warriors
fuel a pride in displaying the trophies of their

victories, we hung the rejected idols of Aitutaki
to the yard-arms and other parts of the vessel,
entered the harbour in triumph, sailed down to
the settlement, and dropped anchor amidst tbe
shouts and congratulations of our people.
On the following Friday evening the idols
were suspended about the chapel, the chan
deliers of which were lighted up as before.
Service was commenced by singing, in the native
language, the Jubilee Hymn, " Faaoto 'tu,"
"Blow ye the trumpet, blow," &c. Having
given a brief outline of the voyage, the chiefs
from Aitutaki were introduced to the assembly ;
when several, addresses were delivered by the ¦
natives, of which tbe two following are speci
mens : —
" This, dear friends," said Tuahine, " is not
the first day of my joy. These varua ino were
seen through the telescope, while hanging to the
yard-armsof the vessel, as she entered the harbour.
Behold ! we now see them hanging here. There
are some things we term the poison of the sea ;
these idols hanging here were the poison of the
land, for both body and soul were poisoned by
them. But let us rejoice, their reign is over.
We did not think that they would have been
obtained so soon."
Addressing himself to the regardless and un
converted portion of the assembly, he said : —
" Behold ! these are still your gods, although
you do not acknowledge them ;" and then he
exhorted them, earnestly and affectionately, to
turn to Jesus, by whose power alone these idols
were conquered. " And how," added he, " can
you resist his power! The gods of wood are
food for the fire, but the God without form is
beyond your strength : his head cannot be
reached ! These gods are conquered ; but the
invisible God will remain for ever. The idols
now hanging in degradation before us were for
merly unconquerable ; but the power of God is
gone forth, by which men become Christians,
and savages brethren in Christ."
A second arose and said ; —
" We have been praying that God would
exert his power, and cause his word to grow,
that his good kingdom might come ; and now,
behold every man, with his own eyes, may see
the effects of that power. These idols have not
been obtained by spears clotted with human
blood, as formerly ; no guns, no clubs, no other
weapon but the powerful Gospel of our Lord
Jesus Christ. Formerly all was theirs, pigs,
fish, men, women, and children ; and now, behold
them suspended in contempt before us ! This
is not the commencement of our joy. We saw
the idols hanging about the vessel, and gladness
sprang in our hearts. They called our ship the
ship of God, and truly it was so, for it carried
the Gospel to distant lands, and brought back
the trophies of its victory. Does praise grow
in every heart ! Is joy felt by all ! Then let
us not only rejoice that ' devils are subject to
us, but also that our names are written in the
book of life.'"
, I obtained from the chief of Aitutaki a short
account of the relics of idolatry. Twenty-five
of these I numbered, and transmitted, with their

MR. BOURNE'S ACCOUNT.

29

names and history, to the deputation then at
Tahiti ; six others were sent to England, and
many of them are now in the Missionary Mu
seum. The following selection may give the
reader a general idea of the whole : —
No. 2. An idol named Te-rongo, one of the
great deities, called a /caitangata, or man-eater.
The priests of this idol were supposed to be in
spired by the shark.
No. 8. Tangaroa ; the great national god of
Aitutaki, and of almost all the adjacent islands.
He holds the net with which he catches the
spirits of men as they fly from their bodies, and
a spear with which he kills them.
No. 15. A rod, with snares at the end, made
of the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, with which
the priest caught the spirit of the god. It was
used in cases of pregnancy, when the female
was ambitious that her child should be a son,
and become a famous warrior. It was also em
ployed in war-time to catch the god by bis leg,
to secure his influence on the side of the party
performing the ceremony. (See page 55, No. 2.)
No. 18. Ruanuu; a chief from Raiatea, who,
ages ago, sailed in a canoe from that island, and
settled at Aitutaki. From him a genealogy is
traced. He died at Aitutaki, and was deified, as
Te atua taitai tere, or the conduct or of fleets. The
Raiateans have several interesting traditions
connected with' Ruanuu. To this idol was
appended an old tattered silk handkerchief, and
the foot of a wine glass ; both of which were
obtained from Captain Cook's vessel, and dedi
cated to Ruanuu, " the god or guide of fleets,"
for conducting that celebrated navigator to their
shores. No. 25. Taau, with his fan, &c. ; the god of
thunder. When the thunder peals, the natives
said that this god was flying, and produced this
sound by the flapping of his wings.
While procuring from the chief the descrip
tions above given, he begged of me to allow
the idols to be burned in cooking food, and not
sent to England, as they would expose his folly.
Pomare, it will be recollected, wished his to be
sent, in order " that English people might see
what foolish gods Tahiti worshipped."

CHAPTER VIII.

Mr. Bourne's Voyage — Accompanied by Mr. and Mrs.
Pitman, with Mrs. Williams and Family, the Author
sails for Rarotonga — Dangers experienced in landing —
Idols delivered up— Chapel erecled— Writing on a Chip ;
the Wonder it excited— Mr. Pitman's narrow Escape-
Books prepared in the Language— A Sabbath at Raro
tonga.
The Hervey group was next visited by my es
teemed colleague, Mr. Bourne, who was much
delighted with the great progress that had been
made at all the -islands. He opened several
places of worship, and baptized a great number
of the natives.
Our friend, the chief of Atiu, had performed
all that he had promised ; and, having completed
the chapel, he was employed in erecting for

himself a plastered house, seventy-three feet in
length, and thirty in breadth. Just before Mr.
Bourne's arrival, the captain of an English
whaler which had been at the island, left the
following written testimony to the kind attention
he had received from the inhabitants : —
" I visited this island for the purpose of ob
taining refreshments ; and, although in some
measure prepared to expect civility, their exces
sive kindness exceeded my utmost expectations.
They appear a mild and inoffensive people, and
have no warlike instruments among them. AVe
remained here on Sunday, and never, in any
country, saw such attention paid to the Sabbath."
In reference to Aitutaki, Mr. Bourne says : —
" They have built a coral pier, six hundred
feet in length, and eighteen feet in breadth.
The number of plastered houses in the settle
ment is one hundred and forty-four, in many of
which are bedsteads and sofas. The female
teachers have taught the women to make good
bonnets. They are diligent in learning, and
numbers can read. Family and private prayer
is very general. Everything has remained quiet
since our last visit ; neither war nor rumour of
war has been seen or heard, although formerly
it was their greatest delight, and the bodies of
their slain enemies formed the horrible repast
at the conclusion of every engagement."
Respecting Rarotonga, after having given an
account of the large congregations to which he
preached, the numbers he baptized, and the
general progress which had been made, Mr.
Bourne observes : —
" Much has been said in Europe concerning
the success of the Gospel in Tahiti and the
Society Islands, but it is not to be compared
with its progress in Rarotonga. In Tahiti,
European Missionaries laboured for fifteen long
years before the least fruit appeared. But two
years ago Rarotonga was hardly known to exist,
was not marked in any of the charts, and we
spent much time in traversing the ocean in
search of it. Two years ago the Rarotongans
did not know that there was such good news as
the Gospel. And now I scruple not to say, that
their attention to the means of grace, their
regard to family and private prayer, equals
whatever has been witnessed at Tahiti and the
neighbouring islands. And, when we look at
the means, it becomes more astonishing. Two
native teachers, not particularly distinguished
among their own countrymen for intelligence,
have been the instruments of effecting this
wonderful change, and that before a single Mis
sionary had set his foot upon the island. I
could not help earnestly desiring the presence
of my brother Williams, that, as we shared in
the disappointments experienced in our last
voyage, we might share the joy which the change
that has since taken place is calculated to pro
duce." By a vessel that touched there some short
time after, I received letters from Papeiha and
his colleague, stating that they enjoyed unin
terrupted prosperity, and expressing a wish that
I would come and spend a few months with
them, as the work was "so heavy that they

30

NEW SETTLEMENT— GROTESQUE COMPANY.

could not carry it." I therefore determined to
embrace the first opportunity of doing so.
* Mi', and Mrs. Pitman, who were at New
South Wales, on their way to the islands, when
the Deputation arrived there, resolved, upon
the advice and representations of those gentle
men, to settle at Rarotonga. With this inten
tion, on their arrival at the Society Islands, they
came to reside with us at Raiatea, to obtain a
knowledge of the language, arid wait until a
companion should arrive from England ; the
delicate health both of Mr. and Mrs. Pitman
rendering it unadvisible that they should proceed
there alone. On being made acquainted with
our determination to revisit Rarotonga, they
gladly embraced the opportunity of accompany
ing us. After a tedious passage, we landed, on
Sabbath, the 6th of May, 1827, amidst the
greatest concourse of people I had seen since
we left England. In doing so we were exposed
to very considerable danger, for there being no
proper harbour, we were obliged to get into the
boat at a distance of three miles from the shore.
The wind was very boisterous, the sea exceed
ingly rough, and our boat so old and leaky, that
Mrs. Williams was obliged to sit in the bottom,
baling out the water. We landed, however, in
safety amidst the congratulations of the multi
tude, who had just left the chapel after morning
service, and who, compared with what they
were when I first visited them, "were clothed,
and in their, right mind." All the females wore
bonnets, and were dressed in white cloth, whilst
the men wore clothes and hats of native manu
facture. The change thus presented was pecu
liarly gratifying.
On the foUowing days our communication
with the ship was as dangerous as when we
landed ; and on the third morning we received
a letter from the captain, stating, that his vessel
had sustained so much injury, that he could
remain no longer. Mr. Pitman and myself
immediately went on board, got our clothes and
a few other things into the boat, wrote a hasty
note or two, and left the vessel. We were,
however, much appalled at our situation ; for
we had but two oars ; the boat was very deeply
laden ; the sea was running high ; it blew a
gale of wind ; and we were six or seven miles
from the shore. Providentially, a large double
canoe, that had been to fetch some natives from
the ship, came to our assistance ; and, after
several hours' hard labour, we happily reached
the land. The clothes, flour, and sugar which
we obtained, recompensed us for our fatigue,
though we were obliged to leave much of our
property in the vessel.
I did not intend to have remained more than
three or four months at Rarotonga; but, no
opportunity being afforded of leaving the island,
we continued there a year : and, although pecu
liarly distressing at the time, we can now clearly
see how wisely and graciously it was ordered ;
for this year, like the preceding, was fraught
with events of great importance, in connexion
with my subsequent movements for extending
the blessings ofthe Gospel in numerous other
islands of the Pacific.

We found the teachers and people just about
to abandon the old settlement, a new one having
been formed on the eastern side of the island.
As the Thursday after our arrival was the day
appointed for the removal, we determined not
to interfere with this or any other arrangement,
until, by a more accurate acquaintance with
the affairs of the station, we should be enabled
to take the management of the mission
into our own hands. On Wednesday after
noon we attended service, when one of the
teachers addressed the assembly ; after which,
the multitude gave us a welcome by a hearty
shake of the hand. As there were be
tween two and three thousand of them, and
they considering that the sincerity of their
affection was to be expressed by the severity of
the "squeeze, and the violence of the shake, we
were not sorry when the ceremony was over,
for our arms ached severely for hours after.
Early the following morning, with nearly the
whole of the inhabitants of the island, we pro
ceeded to tbe new station, to which we found
but little difficulty in getting our things con
veyed, as every person was desirous of carrying
some part of our property. One took the tea-
keetle, another the frying-pan ; some obtained
a box, others a bed-post ; even the chief himself
felt honoured in rendering assistance, and
during the journey he ceased not to manifest
his admiration of the devices printed upon the
articles of earthenware with which he was in
trusted, and to exhibit them to the crowd that
surrounded him.
A heavy fall of rain had rendered the ordinary
road unfit for travelling, or otherwise the walk
would have been delightful ; but, as the kind
people conveyed goods, wives, and children,
upon their Herculean shoulders, all delighted
with their occupation, the journey was by no
means unpleasant.
On our arrival, we found ' that the teachers
had very comfortable houses, one of which they
most cheerfully gave up to us. A day or two
afterwards, they requested us to take our seat
outside the door ; arid, on doing so, we observed
a large concourse of people coming towards us,
bearing heavy burdens. They walked in pro
cession, and dropped at our feet fourteen
immense idols, the smallest of which was about
five yards in length. Each of these was com
posed of a piece of aito, or iron wood, about
four inches in diameter, carved with rude imi
tations of the human head at one end, and with
an obscene figure at the other, wrapped round
with native cloth, until it became two or three
yards in circumference. Near the wood were
red feathers, and a string of small pieces of
polished pearl shells, which were said to be the
manava, or soul of the god. Some of these
idols were torn to pieces before our eyes : others
were reserved to decorate the rafters of the
chapel we proposed to erect; and one was
kept to be sent to England, which is now in
the Missionary Museum. It is not, however,
so respectable in appearance as when in its own
country; for his Britannic Majesty's officers,
fearing lest the god should be made a vehicle

PLATE OF IDOLS— CHAPEL ERECTED.

31

for defrauding the king, very unceremoniously
took it to pieces ; and, not being so well skilled
in making gods as in protecting the revenue,
they have not made it so handsome as when it
was an object of veneration to the deluded
Rarotongans. An idol, of which the annexed
figure is a correct representation, was placed on
the fore-part of every fishing canoe ; and when
the natives were going on a fishing excursion,
prior to setting off, they invariably presented

offerings to the god, and invoked him to grant
them success. Surely professing Christians
may learn a lesson from this practice. Here ¦•
we see pagans of the, lowest order imploring the
blessing of their gods upon their ordinary
occupations. Christians, go and do likewise !
On the following Sabbath, a congregation of
about four thousand assembled; but, as the
house was a temporary building, and would not
accommodate half the people, they took their

One ofthe national idols.

Soul ofthe idol.

The fisherman's god.

32

ACCIDENT TO MR. PITMAN.

seats outside. This induced us to determine
to erect immediately a place of worship. With
this view the chiefs and people were convened,
and arrangements made for commencing the
building ; and so great was the diligence with
which the people laboured, that, although ill
supplied with tools, the house was thoroughly
completed in two months. It was one hundred
and fifty feet in length, and sixty wide ; well
plastered, and fitted up throughout with seats.
It had six large folding-doors. The front
windows were made in imitation of sashes,
whilst those in the back resembled Venetian
blinds. It was a large, respectable, and sub
stantial edifice ; and the whole was completed
without a single nail, or any iron-work what
ever. It will accommodate nearly three thou
sand persons.
In the erection of this chapel, a circumstance
occurred which will give a striking idea of the
feelings of an untaught people, when observing,
for the first time, the effects of written commu
nications. As I had come to the work one
morning without my square, I took up a chip,
and with a piece of charcoal wrote upon it a
request that Mrs. Williams would send me that
article. I called a chief, who was superintend
ing his portion of the work, and said to him,
" Friend, take this ; go to our house, and give
it to Mrs. Williams." He was a singular-look
ing man, remarkably quick in his movements,
and had been a great warrior ; but, in one of
the numerous battles he had fought, had lost an
eye. Giving me an inexpressible look with the
other, he said, " Take that ! — she will call me a
fool and scold me, if I carry a chip to her."
" No," I replied, " she will not; take it, and
go immediately ; I am in haste." Perceiving
me to be in earnest, he took it, and asked,
"What must I say!" I replied, " You have
nothing to say ; the chip will say all I wish. "
With a look of astonishment and contempt, he
held up the piece of wood and said, " How can
this speak! has this a mouth!" I desired him
to take it immediately, and not spend so much
time in talking about it. On arriving at the
house, he gave the chip to Mrs. Williams, who
read it, threw it away, and went to the tool-
chest ; whither the chief, resolving to see the
result of this mysterious proceeding, followed
her closely. On receiving tbe square from her,
he said, " Stay, daughter, how do you know
that this is what Mr. Williams wants!" "Why,"
she replied, " did you not bring me a chip just
now!" "Yes," said the astonished warrior,
" but I did not hear it say anything." " If you
did not, I did" was the reply, " for it made
known to me what he wanted, and all you have
to do is to return with it as quickly as possible."
With this the chief leaped out of the house ;
and, catching up the mysterious piece of wood,
he ran through the settlement with the chip in
one hand, and the square in the other, holding
them up as high as his arms would reach, and
shouting as he went, " See the wisdom of these
English people ; they can make chips talk! they
can make chips talk !" On giving me the
square, he wished to know how it was possible

thus to converse with persons at a distance. I
gave him all the explanation in my power ; hut
it was a circumstance involved in so much
mystery, that he actually tied a string to the
chip, hung it round his neck, and wore it for
some time. During several following days, we
frequently saw him surrounded by a crowd,
who were listening with intense interest while
he narrated the wonders which this chip had
performed. The life and labours of my esteemed and
excellent colleague had nearly terminated,
while erecting the chapel in which he has since
so long and so successfully preached the Gospel.
He and myself had gone, as usual, to mark out
and superintend the work, when one of the chiefs
requested Mr. Pitman to go and instruct him
how to fasten a window-sill ; and, while doing.
so, a man on the thatch, unobserved by him,
was dragging up a heavy piece of wood, which
slipped, and, falling on Mr. Pitman's head,
levelled him to tbe ground. He was taken up
senseless, and conveyed home. I examined the
bruise, and was truly grateful to find that no
bone was broken, no material injury sustained ;
for, providentially, the heavy end of the log
reached the ground before Mr. Pitman was
struck, otherwise his work on earth would have
been finished. In mentioning this event to his
friends, this devoted servant of Christ says,
" Thus it hath pleased the Lord to spare me a
little longer in his vineyard. O that my life
may be more than ever devoted to his service!"
The first three months which we spent with
Mr. Pitman were devoted to the instruction of
the people, and in obtaining a more correct
knowledge of the peculiarities of their language,
with such other information as was necessary
to regulate our future proceedings for the
welfare of the mission. The people were ex
ceedingly kind to us, and diligent in their
attendance at the schools and on all the means
of grace. They made, however, but very little
progress in reading ; and we considered them
dull scholars, compared with their sprightly
brethren in the Society Islands. Indeed, it
was to us a matter of astonishment that not a
single person in the island could read, although
the teachers assured us they had been unremit
ting in their endeavours to instruct them. It is
true they were teaching them in Tahitian, as it
was our wish to extend the use of that dialect
as far as possible ; but not succeeding, we de
termined immediately on preparing some books
in their own language ; and with this view I
drew up an elementary work, and translated
the gospel of John and the epistle to the
Galatians, which were printed a few months
after ; and, from the moment the people received
books in their own dialect, their progress has
been so rapid, that, at the present time, there is
a greater number of persons who can read at
Rarotonga than at any other of our stations;
and I may here add, that I think it a circum
stance of very rare occurrence that a religious
impression is produced upon the minds of a
people, except by addressing them in their
mother tongue.

THE CHAPEL— A SABBATH'S OCCUPATION.

33

From the knowledge we had obtained of the
population, the distances of the districts from
each other, the difficulty of procuring food, the
political divisions of the island, together with
the relative influence of the different chiefs, we
were convinced of the necessity of having two,
and perhaps, ultimately, three distinct stations ;
and, as we expected to remain at Rarotonga but
two or three months longer, it was arranged
that- we, with the inhabitants of two districts,
should return to the former settlement, whilst
Mr. Pitman took charge of the new one, which,
although but one division of the island, was
nearly as populous as the others united. As
the settlement to which I was returning had
been abandoned for some months, great exer
tion was requisite to restore it to order. The
large chapel was much dilapidated. This, from
the circumstances of its erection, was rather an
interesting building, but it was destitute of
elegance ; for, although plastered and floored,
and looking exceedingly well at a distance, the
workmanship was rough, and the doors were
formed of planks lashed together with cinet,
which also supplied the place of hinges. One of
its most striking peculiarities was the presence
of many indelicate heathen figures carved on
the centre posts. This was accounted for from
the circumstance, that, when built, a consider
able part of the people were heathens ; and, as
a portion of the work was allotted to each
district, unaccompanied by specific directions
as to the precise manner of its performance, the
builders thought that the figures with which
they decorated the maraes would be equally
ornamental in the main pillars of a Christian
sanctuary. The building was 250 feet in length,
and 40 feet wide.
Having put the settlement in order, and had
the chapel repaired, we devoted our energies to
the instruction of the people. Their attendance
on the means of grace, and the anxiety they
evinced to understand the truths of the Gospel,
were truly encouraging. At the conclusion of
every service, both on Sabbath and other even
ings, a great number followed us home, took
their seats under the shade of the banana and
plantain trees, by which our habitations were
encircled, and spent an hour or more in making
inquiries respecting the subjects of our address.
Indeed, the manner in which they spent their
Sabbaths was deeply interesting. At sunrise
they held a prayer-meeting to implore the
Divine blessing oh the engagements of the day.
This they conducted entirely themselves. At
nine o'clock the congregation assembled again,
when the Missionary performed Divine service,
just as it is conducted in England, — prayer
being offered, the sacred Scriptures read, and
hymns sung in their own beautiful language ;*
after which, a sermon is preached to them.
Prior, however, to the commencement of the
service, they met in classes, of ten or twelve
families each, and distributed among themselves
the respective portions of the sermon which
* The natives sing exceedingly well, and we have
taught them most of our most popular tunes. They ge
nerally bike two, and sometimes three parts of a tune.
No. 3.

each individual should bring away ; one saying,
" Mine shall be the text, and all that is said in
immediate connexion with it ;" another, " I
will take care of the first division ;" and a third,
" I will bring home the particulars under that
head." Thus the sermon was apportioned
before it was delivered. At our more advanced
stations, where the New Testament was in the
hands of our people, we invariably named pas
sages of Scripture which were illustrative of the
particulars under discussion. For instance, if
the Missionary was preaching upon the love of
Christ, his first division might be to describe
the nature and properties of the Saviour's love ;
and, under this head, if he referred to its great
ness, after having illustrated his point, he would
desire his hearers, without specifying the verse
or verses, to read with attention the third chap
ter of Paul's Epistle to the Ephesians, where
they would find some sentiments applicable to
that part of the subject. Opening their Testa
ments, they would find the chapter referred to,
and make a mark against it. A second divi
sion might be the unchangeable nature of the
Saviour's love ; and, having concluded his ob
servations on this, the preacher would desire
the congregation to read carefully the eighth
chapter of Paul's Epistle to the Romans, where
they would find some passages illustrative of
that particular. Again, opening their Testa
ments, the chapter would be sought and marked.
Thus we should proceed through the discourse.
At a convenient time the respective classes met,
and, after commencing their social service with
singing and prayer, one of the most intellfgent
of their number began by inquiring, "With
whom is the text!" and proposed a variety of
questions upon it. After this he asked for the
divisions of the discourse ; and, when one had
been given, he would say, " To what portion of
Scripture were we referred!" The chapter,
having been named, was then read very care
fully ; and the verses thought to be applicable
were selected. This we found a most efficient
and excellent method of proceeding, as it not
only induced the people to pay great attention
to the sermon, but to search the Scriptures with
interest, and also to exercise their minds upon
the meaning and application of what they read.
This social exercise was regarded as a prepara
tion for the more public examination, conducted
by tbe Missionary, which took place in the cha
pel, between the hours of one and two, when
all the classes assembled ; and seldom was there
a sentiment or sentence of importance in the
discourse which was not then repeated by one
or other of the congregation.

CHAPTER IX.

The Adoption of a Code of Laws by the People of Raro
tonga— To what extent a Missionary should interfere in
Civil Affairs— Conspiracy, with its results— Difficulties
at Rarotonga arising from Polygamy and other Hea
then Usages— the character of Works expected from
the pen of a Missionary-
Cieoumstances were continually occurring
which rendered it imperative that the chiefs of

31

ADOPTION OF A CODE OF LAWS— A CONSPIRACY.

Rarotonga should follow the example of those
at Tahiti and the Society Islands, and adopt a
code of Christian laws as the basis of the admi
nistration of justice in their island ; for, as their
civil polity was ultimately interwoven with their
sanguinary idolatry, when the one was sub
verted, the other perished in its ruins ; whilst
those ancient usages, which were in accordance
with the spirit of their religion of necessity
sank into decay when the people were brought
under the mild influence of Gospel principles.
From time immemorial the inhabitants of this
lovely spot had been addicted to theft ; and, as
vast numbers of those who professed Christianity-
were influenced by example merely, no sooner
had the powerful excitement produced by the
transition from one state of society to another
subsided, than they returned to the habits in
which, from their infancy, they had been
trained. Prior to the introduction of Christianity, they
had several methods of punishing the delinquent,
or rather of avenging themselves for the injury
received. For this purpose the friends and
relatives of the aggrieved party would go to the
house of the offender, and take by force what
ever article of value they found there, even the
mats on which he slept. Not unfrequently
would the house be broken down, the banana-
trees laid prostrate on the ground, and every
article of produce destroyed. At other times
the thief would be murdered on the spot ; in
addition to which, Makea, the king, would fre
quently command that the body should be cut
in pieces, and the limbs hung up in different
parts of the kainga, or farm, on which the
depredations had been committed. In one of
the adjacent islands, a man caught a„little boy,
about eight years of age, in the act of stealing
food : he instantly seized the thief, tied a heavy
stone to his leg, and threw him into the sea.
The boy sank to the bottom, and would soon
have paid for the crime with his life, had not
one of the native teachers, who saw him thrown
into the water, immediately plunged in, and
rescued him from his perilous situation. It was
evident to the chiefs that none of these san
guinary modes of punishment were in accord
ance with the merciful spirit of the religion they
now professed ; and, wishing that their civil and
judicial polity should be so, they very naturally
applied to us for advice. Thus it will be seen
that there was a necessity laid upon us to act in
these affairs ; and, while we gave the chiefs
clearly to understand that our objects were
purely of a spiritual character, we were con
vinced that, under existing circumstances, it
was as much a duty to direct them in the form
ation of a code of laws, as it was to instruct
them in the principles of Christianity itself;
for, in thus acting, we were simply advising
them to apply those principles to social life, and
to substitute them for the ferocity and revenge
by which all classes had been previously in
fluenced. Our circumstances at this time were
very similar to those in which we had been
placed at Raiatea, a narration of which, although
a digression, as they terminated in the esta

blishment of a regular code of laws in that
island, may not be unacceptable.
A number of wild, dissolute young men, and
others who, when heathens, had been accus
tomed to live by plunder, not liking the re
straints which Christianity imposed upon them,
determined to overturn the government of the
island, and entered into a regular and organised
conspiracy for that purpose. In order to effect
their wicked designs, it was resolved to murder
me, my colleague, and Tamatoa the chief, who
countenanced everything calculated to extend
Christian principles and Christian practice.
I was in the habit of spending every second
or third Sabbath at the neighbouring island of
Tahaa, which was about eight miles from our
settlement, but always went on the Saturday,
The four men who had volunteered their ser
vices to convey me were among the conspira
tors, and had engaged, when about half-way, to
throw me into the sea, while their associates
despatched Mr. Threlkeld and Tamatoa. An
apparently trivial circumstance prevented my
going on that day. I had repaired and painted
the boat on the preceding Wednesday, and, not
having sufficient paint-oil, was under the neces
sity of using a considerable portion of a substi
tute made from the cocoa-nut, which prevented
the paint from drying according to my expec
tations ; so that, when we prepared to launch the
boat, we found her unfit for the voyage, and
were thus prevented from taking the journey.
The young men came to me several times dur
ing the day, and appeared exceedingly anxious
that we should go ; but I told them, that, as the
paint was not dry, it was utterly impossible. I
was not aware at the time what induced them
to be so very urgent, and as little imagined that
the simple circumstance above alluded to was
the means which Providence employed to pre
serve me from an untimely death and a watery
grave. This shows what momentous conse
quences are at times poised upon comparatively
trivial events. Thwarted in their plans, they
determined on the following day to carry theni
openly and at once into execution ; and, while
we were sitting at dinner, one of them was sent
to our house for that purpose. He was dressed
in a most fantastical manner, having his head
decorated with leaves, and wearing a pair of
trousers as a jacket, his arms being passed
through the legs ; he wore also a red shirt in
stead of trousers, his legs being passed through
the arms, and the band buttoned round the
waist. He came, brandishing a large carving-
knife, and danced before the house, crying,
" Turn out the hog, let us kill him ; turn out
the pig, let us cut his throat." Annoyed with
his conduct, and not apprehending any danger,
I arose from the table to desire ¦ him to desist.
On opening the door, one of the deacons, almost
breathless with running, met me, thrust me
back, and exclaimed, "Why do you go out!
why do you expose your life ! you are the pig
he is calling for : you will be dead in a moment."
The deacon then informed me of the danger I
had escaped, and of the plot which had just
been discovered. Thus two days in succession

DIFFICULTIES ARISING FROM POLYGAMY, ETC.

35

had I been in most imminent danger, and yet
was preserved without the slightest exertion on
my own part. Many such merciful preserva
tions we are all, more or less, constantly expe
riencing. This alarming circumstance, how
ever, was attended with distressing conse
quences. Mrs. Williams was near the hour of
maternal solicitude ; and the agitation of mind
she experienced was so great, that it occasioned
the premature birth of a lovely babe, which,
after exciting our painful anxieties for a week,
fled to the region of the blessed, leaving us to
mingle our tears of parental sorrow for its loss.
It was the first bereavement we had experi
enced, and we felt it most keenly. On the fol
lowing day the chiefs held a meeting, and deter
mined to put the four ringleaders to death.
We remonstrated with them, when, after a
whole day's discussion, they yielded to our
wishes, and spared the lives of the conspirators.
In the course of conversation the chiefs inquired
what the English people would do under such
circumstances ; when we informed them that in
England there were established laws and judges,
by which all offenders of every kind were tried
and punished. They then wished to know
what judges and laws were ; and, upon having
the nature of the office of judge, and the cha
racter of a code of laws, explained to them,
they said, " Why cannot we have the same !"
They, therefore, nominated a judge, pro tem
pore, by whom the criminals were tried, and
the ringleaders sentenced to four years' banish
ment to an uninhabited island. This occur
rence induced the chiefs and people of Raiatea
to adopt, as the basis of public justice, a code of
laws, which Mr. Threlkeld and myself assisted in
preparing. The laws were but few in number,
and drawn up in the plainest and most perspi
cuous language, entirely devoid of all the tech
nicalities and repetitions by which the statutes
of enlightened and civilised countries are too
frequently rendered obscure and perplexing :
for it appeared to us of the greatest importance
that they should be so simply and clearly ex
pressed, that they might be easily understood
by the people for whom they were framed.
We determined, also, as far as possible, to lay
a permanent foundation for the civil liberties of
the people, by instituting at once that greatest
barrier to oppression — trial by jury. The same
code, a little modified, was, after much delibe
ration and consultation, adopted by the chiefs
and people of Rarotonga ; and thus we trust
that the reign of despotism, tyranny, and private
revenge, under which the inhabitants of this
secluded garden had so long groaned, has for
ever terminated.
The laws enacted related to theft, trespass,
stolen property, " land eating,"* lost property,
Sabbath-breaking, rebellion, marriage, adultery,
the judges, jury, &c. &c. We did not think it
advisable to recommend the enactment of any
law relative to murder, because we were
doubtful as to the punishment which should be
* A term we shall have frequent occasion to use. It
signifies the forcible and unjust possession of each other's
land.

awarded to this crime, and were both of opinion
that no necessity existed for the immediate pro
mulgation of a law on the subject, and that the
people were not sufficiently advanced in know
ledge to enter upon the discussion. The chiefs
and people were themselves induced, some
considerable time after, by a most tragical and
distressing circumstance, to pass the law which
we had omitted ; and, at an assembly in which
almost every inhabitant of the island was
present, it was unanimously determined that
deliberate murder should be punished with
death. This was entirely their own act, so
that its consequences will rest with themselves.
When the event took place to which I refer, we
were grateful that we had not advised this
enactment, for otherwise we could not have
saved the lives of the two culprits, whose sen
tence we succeeded in getting commuted from
death to banishment. I am not, however,
satisfied that we were strictly just in our inter
ference on that pecuharly trying occasion ; for
the woman and her guilty associate had bar
barously murdered the sick husband, in order
that they might be united in marriage.
There were two most delicate and perplexing
subjects which required adjustment, prior to the
final establishment of the laws. The first re
ferred to a plurality of wives. This was a
matter of much deliberation between my
esteemed colleague and myself, before we
decided how to act. Prior to the introduction
of Christianity, polygamy existed to a very con
siderable extent ; and, when a person having a
plurality of wives offered himself as a candidate
for baptism, the teachers had required that the
individual should make a selection of one of
them, and also provide for the support of those
whom he put away. The measure succeeded
beyond what might have been reasonably anti
cipated ; and of the number who complied with
this condition, only about twenty or twenty-five
persons occasioned any trouble ; but among
these was the king, which considerably increased
our difficulty. When we conversed with them
on the subject, some said that they had re
turned to each other, because they had not
been left at liberty in their choice ; whilst
others alleged that they supposed the separation
would be only temporary, and that, had they
known it was to be permanent, they should have
made a different selection. Acting upon this
information, Mr. Pitman and myself thought
the best, and, indeed, the only way to overcome
the difficulty entirely, would be to convene the
people, recommend that those who were dis
satisfied should be allowed to select publicly
either of their wives, and then be united to
her in marriage in the presence of the whole
assembly. The maintenance of the rejected
wife or wives and children was also a very
serious consideration, for it is not at Rarotonga,
as at Tahiti and the Society Islands, where pro
visions are abundant, a matter of slight import
ance ; but a female depends almost entirely on
her husband. Knowing that the king's course
would form a precedent, we commenced by re
questing him to name publicly the individual he
D 2

36

DIFFICULTIES ARISING FROM POLYGAMY, ETC.

intended to make his companion for life ; and
of his three wives he selected the youngest,
who had borne him one child, in preference to
his own sister, by whom he had had three
children, and his principal wife, who was the
mother of nine or ten. He was then married
to her in tbe presence of his people.
On the following morning, Pivai, the prin
cipal wife, took a mat to sleep upon, the
mallets with which to make cloth for the
husband who had abandoned her, and the
beloved children she had borne him, and left
the king's house to take up her residence in
the solitude of widowhood. Scarcely a person
in the settlement could refrain from tears, at
seeing so worthy and amiable a woman, the
mother of so large and fine a family, in those
painful circumstances; and very considerable
indignation was evinced on the occasion. We
ourselves deeply sympathised with her ; for she
was a woman universally esteemed, and from
all that we knew of her we believed she was
worthy of that esteem. A few days before
leaving, she came to our house, and, while con
versing with Mrs. Williams upon the subject,
said, although her affection for her husband was
very great, and she was truly distressed at the
prospect of being separated from him, she had
made up her mind to the painful event, con
vinced that it was preferable ; for, as his affec
tions were set upon his youngest wife, if she
remained, she should become the occasion of
his living in sin ; and rather than this, she
would endure the separation, distressing as it
might prove. This we regarded as a pleasing
evidence of the power of Christian principle
upon her mind. She took the opportunity of
leaving the house while her husband was at
school ; and, on his return to it, he was much
affected at finding his faithful companion gone ;
for, although his affections were placed on the
youngest wife, he had a great esteem for Pivai,
who had borne him so large a family, and had
proved faithful and industrious for so many
years. The king behaved honourably in giving
her the produce of about twenty farms, the
tenants of which were to obey her orders and
do her work. This devoted and affectionate
woman spent the whole period of her widow
hood, which continued for three or four years,
in making native garments of the very best
quality for her late husband and children ;
always taking the utmost pains, and displaying
the greatest skill, in what she made for the
former, thus testifying her unabated affection.
After about four years the wife of Tinomana,
the chief of a neighbouring settlement, died, and
Pivai was united to him in marriage, by which
she is again raised to the dignity she enjoyed
prior to the painful separation from her former
husband. We have reason to believe that Tino
mana is a truly good man, and that they are
remarkably happy in each other.
Having this precedent, we advanced to the
consideration of the other cases, and found but
little difficulty in settling this truly perplexing
affair. The measures adopted terminated ex
ceedingly well ; for, from that time to the

present, no inconvenience has been experienced.
I am aware that there may be a difference of
opinion upon this delicate subject; but I
cherish the hope that a candid and comprehen
sive consideration of existing circumstances will
lead to the conclusion that our proceedings
were both suitable and salutary. Had those
who were determined to take back their wives
been allowed to do so, it would have universally
restored polygamy ; and thus all that had been
effected by the teachers towards the removal of
this evil would have been rendered nugatory.
I have felt disappointed when reading the
writings of Missionaries, at not finding a fuller
account of the difficulties they have had to con
tend with, and the measures by which these were
met. It appears to me that a work from the
pen of a Missionary should not contain just
what might be written by one who has never
left his native country, but a plain statement of
the perplexities with which he has been com
pelled to grapple, and the means adopted to
overcome them ; that if judicious and beneficial,
others, placed in similar circumstances, may
profit by his experience ; and, if otherwise, that
they may avoid falling into similar errors.
Should his plans in some cases have been less
prudent than might have been desired, he has
nothing to fear from the scrutiny of wise and
good men, who will consider the situation in
which he was placed, and the necessity under
which he was laid of devising and executing
measures in novel circumstances ; where, un
directed by any precedent, he was thrown
entirely upon the resources of his own judg
ment. Other difficulties were presented by the
peculiar and intricate character of some of the
ancient usages which we were anxious to see
abolished. One of these was a very Unnatural
practice, called kukumi anga. As soon as a son
reached manhood he would fight and wrestle
with his father for the mastery, and, if he
obtained it, would take forcible possession of the
kainga or farm previously belonging to his
parent, whom he drove in a state of destitution
from his home. Another perplexing custom
was the ao anga. When a wife was bereft, by
the band of death, of her husband, the relations
of the latter, instead of paying the visit of mercy
and kindness " to the fatherless and widow in
their affliction," would seize every article of
value belonging to the deceased, turn the dis
consolate mother with her offspring away, and
possess themselves of the house, the food, and
the land. Another difficulty was produced by
what they call kai kainga, or land-eating, which
is getting unjust possession of each other's
lands ; and these, once obtained, are held with
the greatest possible tenacity ; for land is ex
ceedingly valuable at Rarotonga, and on no
subject were their contentions more frequent
and fierce. On investigating this last practice,
we found it to be a species of oppression in which
so many were involved, and also a point upon
which the feelings of all were so exquisitely sen
sitive, that to moot it would be to endanger the
peace of the island. We therefore thought it

WRITINGS EXPECTED FROM A MISSIONARY— MRS. WILLIAMS' ILLNESS. 37

most advisable to recommend the chiefs to allow
it to remain for the present in abeyance.
After these preliminary matters had under
gone mature deliberation, and the laws in re
ference to them were agreed upon, a general
assembly was convened ; when the whole code,
having been distinctly read and carefully ex
plained, was unanimously adopted by the chiefs
and the people, as the basis on which public
justice was to be administered on the island of
Rarotonga. From what I have related, it will be evident
that the year I spent with Mr. Pitman at Raro
tonga was one of anxiety, difficulty, and toil ;
and feeling our "lack of wisdom, we asked of
God, who giveth to all men liberally, and up-
braideth not." Some, perhaps, many object,
that the above are points with which a Mis
sionary ought not to meddle. I cannot here
enter into a lengthened discussion, as to the
extent to which the Missionary may wisely
interfere with the civil institutions of the people,
but may just observe, that it would be criminal
were he, while seeking to elevate the moral
character of a community, and to promote
among it the habits and usages of civilised life,
to withhold any advice or assistance which
might advance these designs. Inmost cases, as
it was at Rarotonga, the civil and judicial polity
of the heathen, and all their ancient usages, are
interwoven with their superstitions ; and, as all
these partake of the sanguinary character of the
system in which they were embodied, and by
which they were sanctioned, they maintain a
perpetual warfare with the well-being of the
community. The Missionary goes among them,
and, by the blessing of God upon his labours,
they are delivered from the dominion of the
idolatrous system which had governed them for
ages, and in its stead embrace Christianity.
Subsequently they become acquainted with new
principles ; are taught to read portions of the
word of God, which are translated and put
into their hands ; and soon perceive that these
ancient usages are so incompatible with Chris
tian precepts, that such a superstructure cannot
stand on a Christian foundation. To whom,
then, in this dilemma, can they apply for advice,
but to the persons from whom they have
derived their knowledge ! And what less can
the Missionary do than give it freely and fully !
I would not, however, be supposed to advocate
the assumption of political authority by the
Missionary; for, on the contrary, I am con
vinced that he should interfere as little as pos
sible ; and, whether it be in civil, legal, or
political affairs, that he should do so solely by
his advice and influence. But there are
occasions, especially in newly-formed missions,
when he must step out of his ordinary course,
and appear more prominent than he would
wish ; for frequently a word from the Mis
sionary, rightly timed, will do more towards
settling a dispute, healing a breach, burying an
animosity, or carrying a useful plan into execu
tion, than a whole year's cavilling of the natives
themselves. And here, in answer to the charge
that the Missionaries in the South Seas have

assumed even regal authority, I may observe,
that no Missionary in the Pacific ever possessed
any such authority; that his influence is
entirely of a moral character : and I may add,
that there are no instances on record where men
have used their influence less for their own
aggrandisement, or more for the welfare of the
people.

CHAPTER X.

Mrs. Williams's Illness — She gives her consent to the
Author's visiting the Samoa Islands — Resolve to build
a Ship — Make a pair of Bellows — Deficiencies in books
upon the useful arts — The Rats eat the Bellows — Make a
pair of Wooden ones — Messenger of Peace completed —
Voyage to Aitutaki — The King accompanies the Author
— Return with a singular Cargo— Pleasing Incidents ou
our Arrival.
The next circumstance of importance which
occurred while at Rarotonga was Mrs. Williams's
illness. My mind had for some time before this
been contemplating the extension of our labours
to the Navigators' Islands and the New Hebrides ;
and, as far back as 1824, I wrote to the Directors
of the Missionary Society upon the subject.
As" the Gospel was now established at the Her
vey Islands, I began more seriously to think of
taking a voyage to those distant groups; and
priorto my leaving Raiatea, I communicated
my wishes to Mrs. Williams ; who, on learning
that the islands I proposed to visit were from
1800 to 2000 miles distant, and that I should
be absent about six months, exclaimed, " How
can you suppose that I can give my consent to
such a strange proposition! You will be
eighteen hundred miles away, six months ab
sent, and among the most savage people we are
acquainted with ; and if you should lose your
life in the attempt, I shall be left a widow with
my fatherless children, twenty thousand miles
from my friends and my home." Finding her
so decidedly opposed to the undertaking, I did
not mention it again, although my mind was
still fixed upon the object. A few months after
this she was laid upon a bed of affliction ; her
illness came on so rapidly and severely, that in
a few hours she was in a state of insensibility,
and we greatly feared that it would terminate
fatally: the prospect was truly distressing.
Bereavements, at all times, inflict a deep and
painful wound, and leave a fearful chasm in
the domestic circle ; but to have had the part
ner of my days, the mother of my babes, taken
away with a stroke, in an insulated situation,
remote from the kind and soothing attentions
of friendship, and the endearments of home,
would have left me cheerless and disconsolate.
God, however, was pleased to hear our cries ;
and, after a week or ten days, she was partially
restored to health. On entering her chamber,
one afternoon, addressing me in affectionate
terms, Mrs. Williams said, that she had been
endeavouring to discover the design of God in
sending this sudden and heavy affliction : and
her thoughts turned to the opposition by which
she had induced me to relinquish, for a- time,
mv voyage to the Navigators' Islands ; and,

38

BUILDING A SHIP— CONSTRUCTION OF A PAIR OF BELLOWS.

fearing that, if she any longer withheld her
consent, God, perhaps, might remove her alto
gether, she continued — " From this time your
desire has my full concurrence ; and when you
go I shall follow you every day with my prayers,
that God may preserve you from danger, crown
your attempt with success, and bring you back
in safety." I was rather surprised at the cir
cumstance, not having mentioned my wish for
months : however, I looked upon it as the first
indication of Providence favourable to my de
sign, and began immediately to devise the means
by which I might carry it into execution.
After some deliberation, I determined to attempt
to build a vessel ; and, although I knew little
of ship-building, and had scarcely any tools to
work with, I succeeded, in about three months,
in completing a vessel, between seventy and
eighty tons burden, with no other assistance
than that which the natives could render, who
were wholly unacquainted with any mechanical
art. I thought, at first, of getting the keel only
at Rarotonga, and completing the vessel at
Raiatea; but, as the king, chiefs, and people
urged me to build it at their island, promising
me at the same time every assistance in tlreir
power, I yielded to their wishes. As many
friends have expressed a desire to know the
means by which this great work was effected, I
shall be rather more minute in detailing them
than I should otherwise have been.
My first step was to make a pair of smith's
bellows ; for it is well known that little can be
done towards the building of a ship without a
forge. We had but four goats on the island,
and one of these was giving a little milk, which
was too valuable to be dispensed with ; so that
three only were killed ; and with their skins,
as a substitute for leather, I succeeded, after
three or four days' labour, in making a pair of
smith'sbellows. These, however, did not answer
very well ; indeed, I found bellows-making to be
a more difficult task than I had imagined, for I
could not get the upper box to fill properly ; in
addition to which my bellows drew in the fire.
I examined publications upon mechanic arts,
dictionaries, and encyclopaedias, but not one
book in our possession gave directions suf
ficiently explicit for the construction of so com
mon an article ; and it appears to me a general
deficiency in all the works I have seen on the
useful arts, that they do not supply such simple
instructions and explanations as would direct
to the accomplishment of an important and
useful object by means less complex than the
machinery of civilised countries. When, for
example, we were anxious to make sugar, and
for this purpose carefully read tbe article on
sugar-boiling in the most popular Encyclo
paedia in our possession, not having the ap
paratus therein described, we derived no practi
cal benefit from it. If, in addition to a thorough
and scientific description of the most perfect
methods, there were appended plain and simple
directions for manufacturing the article without
the expensive machinery in common use, it
would certainly be of immense service to persons
situated as we, and emigrants to new colonies,

have been. These remarks are applicable to
soap-boiling, salt-making, paper-manufacturing,
and a variety of other processes of a similar
nature. Missionaries, and others leaving the country,
when in search of information upon various
important subjects, generally fail in their object,
by seeking it where everything is effected by
complex machinery, and all the improvements
of the present uge are found in perfection. It
was so with us. We were taken to places of
the above description ; we gazed, we wondered,
and were delighted, but obtained no practical
information ; for few imagine that there is any
other way of effecting an object than that which
they see. All persons going to uncivilised
countries, especially Missionaries, should seek
that knowledge which may be easily applied,
as they have to do everything themselves, and
in situations where they cannot obtain the
means in general use elsewhere. It may, by
some, be thought unwise to go back a hundred
years, and employ the tedious processes then in
use, rather than embrace the facilities which
the experience of succeeding ages has afforded.
But such an opinion, although specious, is un
sound. Let the circumstances of the Mis
sionary, and the state of the people to whom he
goes, be taken into the account, and it must be
at once obvious, that the simplicity of the means
used two or three hundred years ago would
better suit both his condition and theirs than
the more complex improvements of modern
times. On our arrival at Raiatea, I took my oldEnglish
bellows to pieces ; not, as the tale goes, to look
for the wind, but to ascertain the reason why
mine did not blow as well as others. I had
not proceeded far when the mystery was ex
plained, and I stood amazed at my own igno
rance ; for, instead of making the pipe com
municate only with the upper chamber, I had
inserted it into the under as well, by which the
wind escaped, and the llame was drawn in.
To complete my perplexities, the rats, which
at Rarotonga were like one of the plagues of
Egypt, as if by general consent, congregated
during the night in immense numbers, and
devoured every particle of the goats'-skins ; and
on entering the workshop in the morning, I
was mortified by the discovery that nothing
remained of my unfortunate bellows but the
bare boards. This was really vexatious, for I
had no material to supply the loss. Still bent
upon the accomplishment of my object, and
while anxiously considering the best means
" to raise the wind," for that was essential to
my success, it struck me that, as a pump threw
water, a machine constructed upon the same
principle must of necessity throw wind. I
therefore made a box, about eighteen or twenty
inches square, and four feet high ; put a valve
at the bottom, and fitted in a damper, similar
to the piston in the cylinder of a steam-engine.
This we loaded with stones to force it down
with velocity, and attached to it a long lever
by which it was again raised. Before placing
it near the fire we tried it, and were delighted

CONSTRUCTION OF A SHIP.

39

with our success ; but, on bringing it in con
tact with that devouring element, its deficien
cies were soon developed. In the first place,
we found that there was too great an interval
between the blasts, and, secondly, that like its
predecessor it sucked in the fire so fast, that in
a few minutes it was in a blaze. We soon ex

tinguished the flames, and remedied the evil by worked them alternately ; thus keeping up a

making a valve at the back of the pipe com
municating with the fire, which opened to let
out the wind, and shut when the machine was
filling. To overcome the other inconvenience,
we concluded, that if one box would give us
one blast, two would double it ; and we there
fore made another of the same dimensions, and

continual blast, or rather a succession of blasts.
Eight or ten men were required to work them ;
but labour was cheap, and the natives were
delighted with the employment. With this
contrivance we did all our iron-work, using a
perforated stone for a fire-iron, an anvil of the
same material, and a pair of carpenter's pincers
for our tongs. As a substitute for coals, we
made charcoal, from the cocoa-nut, tamanu,
and other trees. The first iron the natives saw
worked excited their astonishment exceedingly,
especially the welding of two pieces together.
Old and young, men and women, chieftain and
peasant, hastened to behold the wonder ; and
when they saw the ease with which heated iron
could be wrought, they exclaimed, " Why did
not we think of heating the hard stuff also,
instead of beating it with stones! What a
reign of dark hearts Satan's is!" Nothing,
however, in the ship excited more interest than
the pumps; even the king was so much de
lighted, that he frequently had his favourite
stool carried on board, and entertained himself
for hours in pumping out the bilge-water. As

we had no saw, we split the trees in half with
wedges ; and then the natives adzed them down
with smallhatchets,whichtheytiedto acrooked
piece of wood as a handle, and used as a sub
stitute for the adze. When we wanted a bent
or twisted plank, having no apparatus for steam
ing it, we bent a piece of bamboo to the shape
required, sent into the woods for a crooked
tree, and by splitting this in half obtained two
planks suited to our purpose. Having but
little iron, we bored large auger-holes through
the timbers, and also through the outer and
inner plank of the vessel, and drove in wooden
pins, termed trenails, by which the whole fabric
was held firmly together. As a substitute for
oakum, we used what little cocoa-nut husk we
could obtain, and supplied the deficiency with
dried banana stumps, native cloth, or other
substances which would answer the purpose.
For ropes we obtained the bark of the hibiscus,
constructed a rope machine, and prepared ex
cellent cordage from that article. For sails we
used the mats on which the natives sleep, and
quilted them that they might be strong enough

40

VOYAGE TO AITUTAKI— SWARM OF RATS.

to resist the wind. After making a turning-
lathe, we found that the aito, or iron-wood,
answered remarkably well for the sheaves of
blocks. By these means the whole was com
pleted in fifteen weeks ; when we launched a
vessel, about sixty feet in length, and eighteen
feet in breadth, and called her " The Messen
ger of Peace," which she has proved to be on
many occasions. The hanging of the rudder
occasioned me some difficulty ; for, having no
iron sufficiently large for pintles, we made them
from a piece of a pickaxe, a cooper's adze, and
a large hoe. They answered exceedingly well ;
but, being doubtful of this, I prepared a sub
stitute for a rudder, in case any part of it should
give way.
Thinking it prudent to try our vessel before
we ventured to Tahiti, which was seven or
eight hundred miles from us, I determined on
a visit to our interesting station at Aitutaki,
which was only about 170 miles distant. As
the king, Makea, had never seen any other
island, he determined to accompany me. Raising
our wooden and stone anchors, and hoisting
our mat sails, I took my compass and quadrant,
and put to sea, accompanied only by natives.
We had not proceeded above six miles from
the shore when, in shifting the sails, the na
tives not observing what was said to them, and
not being acquainted with maritime usages, let
the foresail go, and, as the wind was very
strong, it broke our foremast. Providentially,
however, about twelve or fifteen feet above the
deck was left standing ; and, having cleared the
wreck, and hoisted a part of our sail on the
broken mast, we turned back, and were thank
ful to find that we should reach the land,
although several miles to leeward of the har
bour. We filled a cask with stones, which, in
addition to our wooden auchor, we hoped
might hold the vessel outside the reef ; and if
not, I resolved on the desperate alternative of
running upon it, by which the vessel, in all
probability, would have been dashed to pieces ;
but this was preferable to being driven from the
island with a scanty supply of provisions, and
the ship in a crippled state, in a track where
there was not an island within a thousand
miles. Happily we had a number of natives
on4board, and by making them all work, we
succeeded by sunset, contrary to expectation,
in reaching the harbour in safety. We got a
new mast, repaired our damages, and in a few
days sailed again. Having a strong and
favourable wind, we reached Aitutaki on Sab
bath morning, in time to conduct the services
of the day.
After remaining eight or ten days, with much
interest to ourselves, and, we hope, advantage
to the people, we returned to Rarotonga with a
most singular cargo, principally consisting of
pigs, cocoa-nuts, and cats ; the king having ob
tained about seventy of the first, and a number
of the last. Notwithstanding the singularity of
our importation, it was peculiarly valuable to
the inhabitants of Rarotonga ; for, prior to this,
they had no other than a breed of small native
pigs, of which there were but few, as they were

particularly tender and difficult to rear ; and the
cats were so valuable that one was quite a trea
sure, as the rats were astonishingly numerous ; so
much so, indeed, that we never sat down to a
meal without having two or more persons to
keep them off the table. When kneeling at
family prayer they would run over us in all
directions ; and we found much difficulty in
keeping them out of our beds. One morning,
on hearing the servant scream, while making the
bed, we ran into the room, and found that four
of these intruders, in search of a snug place, had
crept under my pillow ; they paid, however, for
their temerity with their lives. Our friends,
Mr. and Mrs. Pitman, experienced equal in
convenience from these troublesome and disgust
ing little animals. Some of the trunks were
covered with skin, on which the rats commenced
very effectual operations, as they had done before
upon my unfortunate bellows ; and Mrs. Pitman,
having one night neglected to put her shoes in
a place of safety, sought for them the following
morning in vain ; for these nocturnal ramblers,
being in search of a supper, had devoured them ;
and a pah- of shoes in the South Seas is no con
temptible loss. This, however, was a serious
affair for their fraternity ; for our friends com
plained to the authorities of the station, who
forthwith issued a decree of extermination against
the whole race of rats ; and, after school, man,
woman, and child armed themselves with a suit
able weapon, and commenced their direful oper
ations. Baskets were made of the cocoa-nut
leaves, about five or six feet in length, in which
to deposit the bodies jjf the slain, and in about
an hour, no less than thirty of these were filled.
But, notwithstanding this destruction, there did
not appear the slightest diminution, from which
it will be perceived that cats were not the least
valuable animal that could be taken to the island.
These, however, did not destroy so many rats
as the pigs, which were exceedingly voracious,
and did much towards ridding the island of the
intolerable nuisance. Besides hogs and cats,
Makea and those who accompanied him obtained
a considerable quantity of native cloth and mats,
which are highly esteemed and of considerable
worth at Rarotonga. Another valuable portion
of our cargo was a large supply of cocoa-nuts ;
for, a short time before our first visit, a very dis
astrous war had taken place, in which the king
and his party were beaten, and driven for a time
to take refuge in a natural fortress in the moun
tains. The victors then cut down and destroyed
all the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, so that
on the north, west, and south sides of the island,
which were conquered by the inhabitants of the
east, not an old cocoa-nut tree was to be seen.
This supply, under these circumstances, was
consequently of great value for seed. The king
made a distribution of his treasures among his
chiefs and friends : all were therefore delighted
with the voyage.
Having never been to sea before, Makea had
many wonders to tell. One of his expressions
was, " Never again will I call those men warriors
who fight on the shore ; the English only, who
battle with the winds and waves of the ocean,

THE KING ALARMED— MR. WILKS'S LETTER.

41

are worthy of that name." On our voyage to
Aitutaki we had a strong wind and a heavy sea,
and during the night the waves gave the vessel
many severe blows, at which his majesty was
much alarmed, and asked me very seriously if
she would not be knocked to pieces ; and, on
being assured that there was no danger, he was
for a time satisfied, but not so fully as to allow
me to be for one moment out of his sight. The
weather being very boisterous, I was under the
necessity of frequently going on deck during the
night ; but on every such occasion the king fol
lowed me, and appeared to feel safe only at my
side. As the wind was unfavourable, and we
were three days and three nights in returning
to Rarotonga, on the second evening the king
began to get anxious and restless, fearing that we
had missed the island, and were sailing "ite tareva
kaua," or into wide gaping space. And when
on the third evening the sun had retired beneath
the horizon, and no land was descried, Makea
became exceedingly distressed, almost despairing
of again beholding his beloved isle. I endea
voured to console him by requesting him to go
to sleep till the moon should rise, when I pro
mised that he should see the land. He replied
by a very significant question, Im moe ia e tama f
" Can I sleep, friend !" and determined to re
main on deck until the time I mentioned, when,
to his inexpressible joy, Rarotonga was in sight.
His varied and singular expressions evinced the
delightful emotions which the sight of the island
kindled in his breast. Nothing appeared to
excite so much astonishment as the accuracy
with which we could tell the time when land
would be seen. His inquiries were unceasing,
how it was possible we could speak with so much
precision about that which we could not see.
On entering tbe harbour we were struck with
the appearance of our house; for, as the ship
had been built just in front of it, much rubbish
had been collected, the fence surrounding the
front garden was broken down, and the bananas
and shrubs destroyed. This was the state of
things when we left tbe island, but now not only
was the fence repaired, and the garden well cul
tivated, but the dark red mountain plantain, and
golden banana, fully ripe, were smiling a wel
come to us through the splendid leaves which
surrounded the trunks that bore them. It
appears that Mrs. Williams had intimated to
the females who attended her for instruction,
that it would afford her pleasure to have the
pathway and garden put in order by the time of
my arrival. They were delighted with the sug
gestion, and answered, " We will not leave a
chip against which, on his return, he shall strike
his feet." The following morning they com
menced making the pathways. For this pur
pose they placed large flat stones for curb edging,
and filled the intervals with kirikiri, or small
broken pieces of branching coral thrown up by
the sea ; and strewed black pebbles amongst
them, which, being intermingled with the white
coral, gave to the broad pathway a neat and
lively appearance. They then planted the sides
with full grown ti * trees, interspersed with the
* Dracana terminalis.

gigantic taro, or kape. * By their request their
husbands undertook to repair the fence round
the house, while they ornamented the enclosure
with banana and plantain trees, bearing fruit
which would be ripe about the time of our ex
pected return ; and the kind people appeared
amply rewarded, by observing the pleasure which
their work afforded us.

CHAPTER XI.

Mr. Buzacott' s arrival — Receive Letters from England
from the Rev. Matthew Wilks. &c. — Also from Raiatea
— Character and Death of Tuahine — We leave Raroton
ga — Useful Arts introduced among the People — Voyage
iromRarotonga to Tahiti — Makea s Return.
Shortly after our return from Aitutaki, we
were cheered by the arrival of Mr. and Mrs.
Buzacott ; and as they were to occupy the station
we were about to leave, they took up their resi
dence with us. The very day after they landed,
Mr. Buzacott, who is an excellent mechanic,
put on his apron, turned up his sleeves, and be
gan to work at the forge. On seeing this the
people were much delighted, especially Makea,
who exclaimed, " This is the man for us ! this is
the man for us !" Mr. Buzacott, on being intro
duced to my bellows, exclaimed, " What have
you here !" and, when I informed him, he
laughed heartily, and wished to break them to
pieces, and with the materials to make a proper
pair ; but although they were unwieldy in their
dimensions, unsightly in their appearance, and
quite unbellowslike in their construction, yet they
answered the purpose well ; and while I had
no objection that my ingenious young brother
should try his skill, I wished to have some proof
of it before I consented to destroy the useful
machine necessity had compelled me to invent.
By the timely arrival of these kind friends, our
wants were supplied, and our troubles, in a
measure, terminated. To our esteemed fellow-
labourers, also, Mr. and Mrs. Pitman, it was a
source of great satisfaction ; for being in deli
cate health, they had at one time questioned the
propriety of remaining at Rarotonga after our
departure : but by the arrival of Mr. and Mrs.
Buzacott their anxieties were entirely removed.
Prior, however, to this important accession to
the Rarotonga mission, they had formed so strong
an attachment to the people and the people to
them, that they had generously determined to
remain on this isolated spot, amidst those who
had just emerged from barbarism, and at a dis
tance of six hundred miles from any of their
brethren ; and God has since graciously rewarded
them for their devotedness to his service. By
Mr. Buzacott I received many letters, one of
which was from my beloved and venerable pas
tor, the Rev. Matthew Wilks, and its insertion
here will be gratifying to myself, and not less so
to the numerous friends who venerate his
memory. " My DEAR, DEAR WILLIAMS,
" Dear to me as the apple of my eye, * * *
I do love you. My heart leaps when 1 think of
you ; I do pray for you — I pray that you may
* Caladium odoratum.

42

TUAHINE'S CHARACTER— TUAHINE'S LETTER.

never be weary in well doing — I pray that you
may abound in every good word and work — I
pray that you may be the living epistle of Christ,
known and read of all men — I pray that you
may live long, and be useful all your life long ;
and when you and 1 are called to render an ac
count, that we may hear our Master say, ' Enter
ye into the joy of your Lord.' Then we will
answer, ' Yes, Lord, through thy infinite mercy.'
" Then we with all in glory
Shall thankfully repeat
The amazing pleasing story
Of Jesus' love so great.
" In this blest contemplation.
We shall for ever dwell ;
And prove such consolation
As none below can tell.
" News. — Old Tab. yet stands where she did
— and, for the most part, fills as she did — many
die off and enter their rest. We have had two
very great losses — Mr. Wilson, and my dear
brother Hyatt. I cannot be long, being now
turned 80 — and have this week been cupped.
Of all the. mortals that inherit the kingdom of
God I shall be the most unworthy, and yet I
hope I shall arrive safely.
" Pray give my very kind love to your brethren :
live together, co-operate, make a common cause in
your exalted labours. The Lord fill your new
chapel with truly Christian worshippers, and
make it one of his resting-places ! * * * Grace,
mercy, and peace be with you all, and believe
me, in undissembled love, to be your once affec
tionate pastor and patron. "M. Wilks."
At the same time I received communications
from my own station at Raiatea, and was grieved
to find that my truly valuable deacon, Tuahine,
had been taken to his rest. He was one of the
two lads who began first to call upon the name
of the Lord Jesus in Tahiti. A lengthened ac
count of this interesting individual would no
doubt be acceptable to the reader, but I fear to
attempt anything beyond a bare outline of his
history ; for I am anxious to curtail and com
press the information I have to communicate
into as small a compass as possible.
When the great work of conversion com
menced at Tahiti, one of the Missionaries, on
going into the bushes for meditation and secret
prayer, there being no place for retirement in
the native habitations, heard a sound, which on
listening attentively he discovered to be the voice
of prayer. It was the first time that any Mis
sionary's heart had been gladdened by hearing
a native of Tahiti use the language of devotion.
This individual had been impressed by some
remarks from Pomare ; and, anxious to possess
a friend to whom he could unbosom his feelings,
he applied to Tuahine, who had for a long time
lived in the mission families. Happily, Tuahine's
mind was in a similar state, and they resolved
to retire frequently to the valleys for conversa
tion and prayer, by which exercises these salu
tary and delightful impressions were deepened.
After a time, several young persons united with
them ; and this little band, without any Mission
ary to guide them, agreed to refrain from the

worship of their idols, and from the wicked
practices to which their countrymen were ad
dicted, to observe the Sabbath-day, and to wor
ship Jehovah alone. As Christianity spread,
Tuahine rendered essential service to the Mis
sionaries, by directing the inquiries of the new
converts, and teaching in the schools. Possess
ing an accurate acquaintance with his own lan
guage, and, by his long residence with the Mis
sionaries, having obtained a considerable amount
of scriptural knowledge, he was qualified to
afford valuable assistance in translating the Scrip
tures, which he did, first to Mr. Nott, and after
wards to myself. Frequently has he sat eight
and ten hours a-day aiding me in this important
work ; and to him are we in a great measure
indebted for the correctness with which we have
been enabled to give the oracles of truth to the
people. When we removed to Raiatea he ac
companied us, and, as might have been expected,
his counsel and assistance, especially in the
schools and in teaching us the language, were
most invaluable. When I was absent from
home he was left in charge of the station ; and
his addresses, which were most beautiful speci
mens of native eloquence, resembling more the
mildness of a Barnabas than the thunder of a
Boanerges, were exceedingly acceptable to the
people. The neatness of his style, the correct
ness of his language, and the simplicity and
beauty of his similes, never failed to rivet the at
tention of his hearers. He had also a surprising
gift in prayer. Many times have I listened
with intense interest to the glowing language of
devotion which flowed from his lips. He was
much respected by the people ; maintained an
honourable course many years ; discharged the
office of deacon with diligence and fidelity, and
died at the age of about forty-five, in the enjoy
ment of the consolations of the Gospel. A day
or two before his death he wrote to me the fol
lowing letter: — Raiatea, November Wth, 1827.
" Oh, dear Friend,
" May blessing attend you and your
family, through Jesus Christ our Lord. I have
written this letter on the day, that my body is
completely destroyed with sickness. I am con
vinced of the near approach of death, for I per
ceive that my illness is very great. The 11th
of November is the day on which I write : I
write with great difficulty, for my eyes are now
dim in death. My compassion for my family is
very great ; I therefore write in death to you,
my dear friend, about my family. We do not
belong to Raiatea, neither myself nor my wife ;
we both belong to Tahiti ; but from love to the
word of God, and attachment to you, our teacher,
we have forsaken our lands, and now I am about
to die. It is death that terminates our close
connexion. This is what I have to say to you,
my dear friend, about my family ; do not let
them remain at Raiatea ; take them to Tahiti,
in your own large boat ; convey them there your
self ; letno one else. They belong to Papeete :
there are their parents and their land. My
perplexity is very great, occasioned by my dear
family crying and grieving around me. They

TUAHINE'S DEATH— UAEVA'S LETTER.

43

say, ' Who will convey us back to our lands !'
I refer them to you ; replying, ' Mr. Williams is
our friend.' We miss you very much in my ill
ness, and grieve greatly at your absence. Now,
my dear friend, let me entreat you not to forget
my dying request. Do not follow the custom of
my countrymen, and say, when I am gone, ' Oh,
it is only the command of a corpse.' This is
what they say, and then seize his little property.
I have been endeavouring to lengthen out my
breath to see you again, but I cannot ; my hour
is come, when God will take me to 'himself, and
I cannot resist his will. Perhaps this is the
time the Lord has appointed for me. And now,
my dear friend, the great kindness you have
shown me is at an end ; your face will not see
my face again in the flesh — you and I are se
parated. Dear friend, I am going now to the
place we all so ardently desire.
" May the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ be
with you and your family ! " Tuahine.
"P.S. — Take care of my family."
His loss was very severely felt, for the affairs
of the state began to get into confusion soon
after his death. His colleague, on whom the
charge of the mission devolved, although a sen
sible man, was not equal to the greatness ofthe
work, which he himself, with much Christian
simplicity, confesses in the following letter : —
" Raiatea, March, 17*A, 1828.
Dear friend Mr. Williams,
" May the blessing of God and the grace of
the Lord Jesus Christ be with you. This is my
communication. Where are you! What are
you doing! Is it well with you! Are you
dead ! Alas, how long it is since our eyes saw
each other's features ! Tuahine is dead. He
will never see your face again : perhaps that
alsc may be the case with me. He died in
November.

*¦ We have had visits from Mr. Barff and Mr.
Piatt. Mr. Pritchard is now with us, and we
like him very much. Ten families have joined
us lately : they were previously living almost
like heathens. Mr. Barff has baptized them.
Only two members of our church have acted
inconsistently since you left.
" Dear friend, the work of a minister in super
intending a church is a great work ; it is more
than I can carry ; it is also a fearful work. I
am as a presumptuous child, who, with his
parent by his side, thinks himself great and
clever, but, when unsupported by his parent,
learns his deficiency. It is well said by our Lord,
that the disciple is not wiser than his teacher.
" Dear friend, I am anxiously desiring your
return, for I have expended all my little stock
of knowledge ; and, as you are aware, I have a
people to instruct who are as wise as myself;
they generally, however, express themselves
pleased with my addresses 
" Do not come in tbe vessel you are building,
lest Mrs. Williams and the children should be
drowned in the sea. Hasten home, as we
expect our brethren and friends from Huahine
to be present at our missionary meeting in May.
"Your premises are overgrown with weeds;
your large boat is being eaten by the worms,
and your cattle are running wild ; for the people
whom you left in charge of them are neglectful.
I thought it best to tell you all this, that you
may not be surprised on your arrival.
" Blessing on you through Jesus !
"Uaeva."
We continued at Rarotonga about a month
after the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Buzacott, and
spent that time in strengthening our vessel with
iron, supplied by Mr. B.; in erecting his new
house ; teaching him the language, and com
municating important information relative to the
mission. It was a matter of deep regret to our

The Messenger of Peace, as she appeared when leaving Rarotonga for Tahiti.

44

THE KING'S ARRANGEMENT— SUGAR BOILING, &c.

beloved friends, that we were compelled to
leave them so soon.
The king, who intended to accompany us to
Raiatea, gave instructions to his people for the
regulation of their conduct during his absence ;
made the necessary arrangements with his chiefs,
and nominated a Regent to act for him till he
should return. Every thing being prepared,
and having resided twelve months at this im
portant station, during the most critical period
of its history, we took an affectionate leave of
our beloved coadjutors and their kind people,
truly thankful that, on being relieved from this
heavy charge, I was resigning it into the hands
of brethren so well qualified to fulfil its duties.
The inhabitants of this lovely spot evinced con
siderable feeling at the prospect of losing us.
For more than a month prior to our departure,
little groups would collect in the cool of the
evening, and, when sitting around the trunk of
some tree of gigantic growth, or beneath the shade
of a stately banana, would sing in plaintive tones
the stanzas they had composed to express their
sorrow at our anticipated separation. On the
evening of our departure several thousands ac
companied us to the beach ; and, as the boat
left the shore, they sang with one voice, and we
think we may add, with one heart,
Kia ora e Tama ma
I te aerenga i te moana e I
" Blessing on you, beloved friends ; blessing
on you in journeying on the deep." This tbey
repeated at very short intervals, the sounds
becoming fainter and fainter as we proceeded,
until they were lost in the distance. The
effect was so overpowering that not a person in
the boat could refrain from weeping.

The Rarotongans improved much in every
respect during our residence among them. The
females were completely transformed in their
appearance, for, although both the teachers were
single men, they had taught them to make
bonnets; but I must add, that their taste in
forming the shape did not admit of equal com
mendation with their desire to raise the character
and promote the comfort of the female sex.
These deficiencies, however, were supplied by
Mrs. Pitman and Mrs. Williams, who made
some hundreds of bonnets, and rendered many
of the natives proficients in the art. They made
also, for the chiefs' wives, ' European garments,
and instructed them to use the needle, with
which they were much delighted. Besides this,
they met, almost daily, the different classes of
females, to impart to them religious and other
instruction. By myself, the men were taught
various useful arts, such as to work at tbe forge,
to erect better houses, and to make articles of
furniture ; in which they have since far excelled
their neighbours. At Mr. Pitman's station,
I constructed a turning-lathe, and the first
thing I turned was the leg of a sofa, with which
the chief to whom it belonged was so much
delighted that he strung it round his neck, and
walked up and down the settlement, exhibiting
it to the admiration of the astonished inhabitants,
many of whom exclaimed, that, if they had
possessed it prior to the renunciation of idolatry,
it would certainly have been an object of worship,
and have taken the precedence of all their other
idols. We made a sugar-mill* for them, and
taught them to boil sugar.
As the people, before our arrival had de
stroyed all the cocoa-nut trees, from which they
might have procured oil, and having no other

,sm HI

article of commerce, we entertained a pleasin<*
hope that the manufacture of cordage and rope,
from the hibiscus bark, might become a valuable
substitute. With this view I constructed a rope-
machine, taught them the art of rope-making,
and encouraged them to prepare a great quantity,
some of which was sent to New South Wales,

in the expectation of finding a market for it. ;
but we did not succeed according to our antici
pations, and the Rarotongans are still destitute
oi the means of exchange for European com
on! ,™S llaS th° SeT™th } had m-lde' ha™&- constructed
one upon the same principle for most of our native Mission-
«ij StiltlOllSt

ARRIVAL AT TAHITI— PAPEIHA'S NARRATIVE.

45

modifies. At my own station, also, being
desirous of adding to the few articles which the
natives were able to offer in exchange for
European manufactures, I hired a person, at
very considerable expense, to teach me the art
of growing and preparing Brazil tobacco.
Having obtained this information, we induced
the natives to plant about a hundred and fifty
acres, and made the necessary apparatus for
pressing, &c, and, as a vessel was sailing at this
time for New South Wales, I wrote to inform
our undeviating friend, the Rev. S. Marsden, of
our proceedings. Delighted with the informa
tion, he inserted my letter in the Sydney Ga
zette. Some narrow-minded merchants im
mediately took the alarm, and tormented the
governor, until a prohibitory duty of 4s. per lb.
was imposed upon tobacco from the South Sea
Islands. Thus our expense and labour were
lost. It appeared to me to derogate from the
dignity of a great nation, thus to crush the ener
gies of an infant people.
Both Mr. Pitman and myself were constant
in our attendance at the schools, but, having no
books in their dialect, the natives could make
very little progress ; and, although they dili
gently attended the means of grace, there were
but few who gave evidences of a change of
heart. Much knowledge, however, was im
parted, and a foundation laid on which the two
excellent and devoted Missionaries, who occupy
these stations, have since been honoured to
raise an elevated and spiritual superstructure.
We never reflect upon our voyage from Raro
tonga without feeling our obligations to a kind
and protecting Providence. It will be readily
conceived, that a vessel built under the circum
stances I have described, very insufficiently fas
tened with iron, caulked with the bark, and
covered partly with lime, and partly with gum
from the bread-fruit tree, instead of pitch, was
not calculated to sustain the buffetings of many
storms. But, although it blows from the E.
almost continually in those latitudes, we were
favoured, during our voyage of 800 miles, with
a fair wind, which was so light as to appear
almost sensible that it was filling sails which
could not endure its fury, while the sea was so
smooth that it seemed as if reserving its power
for some bark better fitted to withstand it ; or,
rather, we felt that He who said to the winds
and waves, " Be still," continued to care for
his disciples. We arrived off Papeete harbour,
at Tahiti, during the night, and in the morning
the crews of the ships at anchor, and the friends
on shore, observed, literally, "a strange sail"
at sea. Some took us for South American
patriots, others for pirates, and others could not
tell "what to make of us." As soon as we
entered the harbour the officers of the vessels
lying there, and our friends from the shore,
hastened on board, to see the prodigy, and
expressed not a little astonishment at every part
of the ship, but especially at the rudder-irons.
From Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard we received a
cordial welcome. After introducing Makea to
the Missionaries and authorities of the
island, and recruiting our strength, in a few days

we departed for Raiatea, where we arrived, the
26th of April, 1828, having been absent exactly
twelve months. On landing I was thus greeted
by the people : " How good it is you are come !
now our troubles will be at an end ! what should
we have done had you stayed away much
longer!" I was at a loss to divine the import of
these exclamations, till I was informed that a
serious disagreement had arisen between Ta
matoa and the principal chiefs of the island.
In a few days, however, these differences were
settled, and we prepared for our Missionary
meeting ; at which from two to three thousand
persons assembled, many of whom had come
from Huahine and Tahaa ; with the noble chief,
also, from Rarotonga, whose presence, together
with the exhibition of the rejected idols of his
people, added much to the interest of the oc
casion. This was the third time we had enjoyed
the privilege of exhibiting to the Raiateans the
abandoned idols of other islands. Many suit
able addresses were then delivered, and all
present seemed delighted.
Makea, during his stay at the Society Islands,
visited Huahine, Tahaa, and Porapora, the
chiefs and people of which showed him kind
attentions, and made him valuable presents.
With these, after about two mouths' residence
with us, we sent him home, where he arrived
in safety, and was cordially welcomed by tbe
Missionaries and his people.

CHAPTER XII.

Papeiha's Narrative — Ideas of the People on seeing him
Read — Arrival of his Colleague — Arrangements for
Increased Exertion — The Success which attended their
Efforts— Ludicrous Incidents with a Cat — First Place
of Worship erected— War with the Heathens — The en
tire Subversion of Idolatry at Rarotonga — War at Raia
tea— Accusations of Professor Lee.
During our stay at Rarotonga, I obtained a
minute and interesting account from Papeiha,
of the circumstances which occurred from his
first landing to the time of our arrival, a brief
abstract of which I shall present to the reader.
On reaching the shore, he was conducted to the
house of old Makea, the father of the present
chief of that name. An immense crowd fol
lowed him, one of whom was saying, " I'll have
his hat;" another, "I'll have his jacket;" a
third, "I'll have his shirt;" but they did not
carry their threats into execution : for the chief
called out, " Speak to us, 0 man, that we may
know the business on which you are come."
Papeiha replied, that he had come to instruct
them in the knowledge of the true God, and
the way of eternal salvation through his Son
Jesus Christ, in order that they, like the inha
bitants of Tahiti, the Society, and other islands,
might burn the idols of wood, of cloth, and of
birds' feathers, which they had made and called
gods. Immediately there burst from the multi
tude an exclamation of surprise and horror;
"What! burn the gods! what gods shall we
then have, and what shall we do without the
gods !"

46

PAPEIHA'S NARRATIVE— CONVERSION OF TINOMANA.

The teacher and his party commenced family
worship morning and evening, at which many
persons attended ; and, after the first Sabbath-
day services, about twenty joined them, among
whom was Davida, the eldest son of the present
king, who has continued steadfast, and is now
rendering essential service to the mission, as
superintendent of Mr. Buzacott's schools, and
leader of the singing. Frequently has Papeiha
showed me the stone from which, overshadowed
by a grove of banana-trees, he delivered his
first address to the wondering inhabitants of
Rarotonga. Shortly after this, Tinomana, the chief of
Arorangi, a district about eight miles from Pa
peiha's residence, sent for him, and expressed
a wish to know something about Jehovah and
Jesus Christ. This chief, with the whole of
the people of his district, were living in the
mountains, where Tinomana himself was horn.
As this was the weakest district of the three,
its inhabitants were subject to peculiar oppres
sion from their more powerful neighbours, who
plundered them of their food and property with
impunity. When a sacrifice was required, they
would invariably seek it from this oppressed
people ; and so great was their danger, that,
when they wanted fish, they were obliged to
steal down to the sea in the dead of the night,
and return before day-break, to avoid being
plundered or murdered by parties from the
other districts. Papeiha, after having explained
the leading doctrines of the Gospel to this
chieftain, very judiciously pointed out to him
the advantages which he would derive from the
reception of Christianity ; and showed, that by
this means, peace and good-will would so reign
through the land, that he would no longer be
compelled to live in the mountains, but might
take up his abode near the sea, and, with his
people, enjoy his possessions as securely as the
inhabitants of the victorious districts. The
chief was considerably impressed with these
representations ; and, after meditating for some
hours upon what he had heard, he came to
Papeiha, and said, that he felt greatly disposed
to burn his gods, but was afraid, " lest they
should be enraged, and strangle him in the
night." The teacher assured him that he had
nothing to apprehend, as they were destitute of
any real power. In the evening Papeiha and
his party engaged in prayer, when many of the
people of the district united with them, and for
the first time since the island had been inha
bited, bowed their knees to the God of Heaven,
and listened to the voice of devotion.
When Papeiha had spread his mat, and laid
himself down to rest, Tinomana brought his,
and, having placed it by his side, told him that
he came to be taught to pray to Jehovah. De
lighted with the request, Papeiha comm enced a
short prayer, which the chief repeated after
him ; but overcome with fatigue he dropped off
to sleep. He had, however, scarcely closed his
eyes, when the anxious chief awoke him, saying,
" I've forgotten it ; . go over it again." After
causing him to repeat it many times, once more
he fell asleep, and again wa6 awoke. This was

repeated frequently through the night. In the
morning, Papeiha returned home, and Tinomana
accompanied him part of the distance, reciting,
during the journey, the prayer which he had
learned. On taking his leave, he informed the
teacher that he was much delighted with what
he had heard ; and that he would go home and
think seriously upon the subject ; for, as it was
a matter of great importance, it was not well to
be in haste.
Papeiha had not long returned, when another
opportunity was afforded him for bearing his
testimony to the truth, in the presence of a
multitude of heathen, on the very spot where'
" Satan's seat was." The people were assem
bled at a marae, offering great quantities of
food to the gods. Many priests, pretending to
be inspired, were shouting and vociferating,
with all tbe wildness of heathen frenzy, sur
rounded by worshippers who presented a strange
and ludicrous appearance. Some had one side
of their face and body blackened with charcoal ;
others were painted with stripes of all the
colours they could procure ; while many were
dressed as warriors, with large caps, adorned
with white cowrie-shells and birds' feathers.
Our intrepid friend pressed into the midst of
the assembly, and commenced addressing them
on the folly of offering such quantities of food
to a piece of wood which they had carved, and
decorated, and called a god. Upon this, a
priest stood up and affirmed that theirs was a
real god, that he was a -powerful god, and that
the feast they were celebrating was very sacred.
Papeiha told them that the day was not far dis
tant when the true God Jehovah would show
them the folly of their practices, and would
make the gods they now worshipped "fuel for
the fire." On hearing this declaration there
was great confusion, but they listened very
attentively while he described the love of God
in giving his Son to die for sinners. After
Papeiha had ceased, the people asked him
many questions, one of which was, "Where
does your God live!" He replied, that heaven
was his dwelling-place, but that he filled both
the heavens and the earth with his presence.
"We cannot see him," they rejoined, "hut ours
are here before our eyes, and, if the earth was
full of your God, surely he would be big enough
to be seen." " And should we not run against
him!" exclaimed another. To all this Papeiha
made answer, " that the earth was full of air,
but we did not run against it; that we were
surrounded by light, but it did not impede our
progress." This conversation terminated, how
ever, without adding to the number of converts ;
but the teacher had the satisfaction of knowing
that he had**borne a faithful testimony to the
truth, and that many had heard, for the first
time in their lives, of salvation by the blood of
Jesus Christ.
As Papeiha carried his Testament with him,
it frequently elicited curious remarks. While
walking about the settlement, the people would
say, "There! there's the god of that man!
what a strange god it is, he carries it about
with him, but we leave ours at the marae."

FIRST IDOL DESTROYED— PAPEIHA'S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

47

When they saw him reading, they would say
that he and his God were talking together.
Five months had elapsed when Papeiha was
cheered by the arrival of his associate Tiberio.
Although the labours of Papeiha had been un
remitting, and the converts by no means nume
rous, he was not discouraged ; and now that
he was animated by the presence, and aided by
the co-operation, of a colleague, it was deter
mined that himself and his associate should
employ all their energies for the accomplish
ment of their object, and, undeterred by threats
or danger, should go on any occasion to any
part of the island where it was probable that
success might reward their efforts. With this
view they resolved, in the first instance, to visit
all the influential chiefs, and explain to them
the principles of Christinn truth, pointing out,
not only the spiritual but the temporal advan
tages which would accrue from the renunciation
of idolatry. While carrying their resolution
into effect, at some places they were kindly
treated, but at others they were ridiculed, and
from one or two they narrowly escaped with
their lives.
A few days after their return to the station, a
priest came to the teachers, and expressed
his determination to burn his idol, and had
brought his eldest son, a boy about ten years of
age, to place under their care, lest the gods, in
their anger, should destroy him. Leaving the
child with the teachers, he returned home, and
early the next morning came bending under the
weight of the cumbrous god he was bringing to
be burned. A crowd followed him, calling him
a madman ; but he persisted in his determina
tion to embrace the word of Jehovah, and
declared that he was unconcerned about the
result. He then threw his idol at the feet of
the teachers, one of whom fetched his saw to
cut it up ; but, as soon as the people observed
the saw applied to the head of the god, they all
took fright and ran away. Many even of their
converts were seized with the panic, and hid
themselves among the bushes. After a short
time they returned ; and in the presence of an
immense crowd, the first rejected idol of Raro
tonga was committed to the flames.
In order to convince the people ofthe utter
futility of their fears, when the idol was reduced
to ashes the teachers roasted some bananas
upon them, of which they ate themselves, and
invited others to partake. No one, however,*
had courage to admit so dangerous a morsel
into their mouths, and waited, with no small
anxiety, to witness the result of the teachers'
temerity; but, like the inhabitants of Melita,
" after they had looked a great while, and saw
no harm come to them, they changed their
minds," and said theirs was the truth. The
crowd of spectators returned with feehngs so
different from those with which they assembled,
that in less than ten days after this event not
fewer than fourteen idols were destroyed. Im
mediately afterwards Tinomana, the conquered
chief, sent for the teachers, and on their arrival
at his residence in the mountains, he informed
them that, after much deliberation, he had

determined to embrace Christianity and to place
himself under their instructions, and therefore
wished to know what was the first step to the
reception of truth. The teachers informed him
that he must destroy his maraes and burn his
idols, to which he instantly replied, " Come
with me and see them destroyed." On reach
ing the place he desired some person to take a
fire-brand, and set fire to the temple, the atarau,
or altar, and the unus, or sacred pieces of carved
wood by which the marae was decorated. Four
great idols were then brought and laid at the
teachers' feet, who, having read a portion of .the
tenth chapter of the gospel of St. Luke, which
was peculiarly appropriate, especially from the
seventeenth to the twentieth verses, disrobed
them of the cloth in which they were enveloped,
distributed it among the people, and threw the
wood to the flames. Thus were the inhabitants
of this district delivered from the reign of
superstition and ignorance under which they
had so long groaned. Some ofthe people were
much enraged with the chief, and were very
violent in the expression of their feelings, call
ing him a fool and a madman for burning his
gods and listening to worthless fellows, who
" were drift-wood from the sea, washed on shore
by the waves of the ocean." The grief of the
women was excessively frantic, and their
lamentations loud and doleful. Many of them
inflicted deep gashes on their heads with sharp
shells and sharks' teeth, and ran about, smeared
with the blood which streamed from the
wounds, crying in tones of the deepest melan
choly, "Alas! alas! the gods of the madman
Tinomana, the gods of the insane chief, are
given to the flames !" Others, blackened with
charcoal, joined in their lamentations. In the
course of a few days all the idols in the district
were brought to the teachers : some of these
were destroyed, but the others they determined
to send to Raiatea. On the following Saturday
they left Tinomana, advising him and the other
converts to have their food prepared for the
next day, and to attend worship at the station.
They did as they were requested, but came com
pletely accoutred, as for an engagement, with
war-caps, slings, and spears, fearing lest the
enraged Satanees* should attack them. They
were not however, molested either in coming
or returning. From this time the destruction
of the ensigns of idolatry proceeded rapidly
throughout the island. During the next week
Pa, the principal chief of the victorious party,
sent for Papeiha and Tiberio, and on their
arrival expressed his determination to embrace
the truth. Iu the evening, while sitting in the
house, their attention was attracted by a singular
noise, which proved to be the yelling of a
person who pretended to be inspired, and who,
like the heathens of old, endeavoured to support
his pretensions by distorting his features and
speaking in an unnatural tone. Approaching
the dwelling, he vociferated, " Pa, Pa, give me
those two men! Why do you preserve two
rotton sticks driven on shore by the waves!
why do you listen to the froth of the sea! I am
* A name by which the idolaters were designated.

48

LUDICROUS EFFECT BY THE SIGHT OF A CAT.

great Tangaroa : give them to me, and I'll eat
them !" The teachers proposed to each other
to joke with this gentleman, and as he entered
the house, to take out their knives, and demand
that they should be allowed to make an incision
and search for the great god Tangaroa, who, he
said, was witbin him, as it would be gratifying
to all parties to see this extraordinary person
age. The chief heard the conversation, and
warned the priest not to enter, as the teachers
were ready with their knives to cut him open
and search for Tangaroa. On hearing this he
scampered away with far less pomp than he
came, and they heard no more of him.
The teachers, after an absence of about a
week, during which they had witnessed the
demolition of several maraes, returned, accom
panied by the first-bom of every chief who had
destroyed his idols.
At this time a ludicrous circumstance oc
curred, which will illustrate the ignorance and
superstition of this people. A favourite cat had
been taken on shore by one of the teachers'
wives on our first visit, and, not liking his new
companions, Tom fled to the mountains. The
house of the priest Tiaki, who had just de
stroyed his idol, was situated at a distance from
tbe settlement ; and at midnight, while he was
lying asleep on his mat, his wife, who was
sitting awake by his side, musing upon the
strange events of the day, beheld with conster
nation two fires glistening in the doorway, and
heard with surprise a mysterious voice. Almost
petrified with fear, she awoke her husband, and
began to upbraid him with his folly for burning
his god, who, she declared, was now come to
be avenged of them. " Get up and pray, get
up and pray !" she cried. The husband arose,
and, on opening his eyes, beheld the same
glaring lights and heard the same ominous
sound. Impelled by the extreme urgency of
the case, he commenced, with all possible
vehemence, vociferating the alphabet, as a
prayer to God to deliver them from the ven
geance of Satan. On hearing this, the cat as
much alarmed as the priest and his wife, of
whose nocturnal peace he had been the un
conscious disturber, ran away, leaving the poor
people congratulating themselves on the efficacy
of their prayer.
On a subsequent occasion puss, in his peram
bulations, went to the district of the Satanees ;
and, as the marae stood in a retired spot and
was shaded by the rich foliage of trees of ancient
growth, Tom, pleased with the situation, and
wishing to be found in good company, took up
his abode with the gods ; and, not meeting with
any opposition from those within the house, he
. little expected any from those without. Some
few days after, however, the priest came, accom
panied by a number of worshippers, to present
some offerings to the god, and, on opening the
door, Tom very respectfully greeted him with
a mew. Unaccustomed to such salutations,
instead of returning it he rushed back with
terror, shouting to his companions, " Here's
a monster from the deep, here's a monster
from the deep!" Upon this the whole party-

hastened home, collected several hundreds of
their companions, put on their war-caps, brought
their spears, clubs, and slings, blackened them
selves with charcoal, and thus equipped came
shouting to attack " poor puss." Affrighted at
this formidable array of war, Tom immediately
sprang towards the opened door, and darted
through the terror-stricken warriors, who fled
with the greatest precipitation in all directions.
In the evening these brave conspirators
against the life of a cat were entertaining them
selves and a numerous company of spectators
with a dance, when Tojn, wishing to see the
sport, and bearing no malice, came to take a
peep. No sooner did he present himself than
the terrified company fled in consternation;
and the heroic warriors of the district again
armed themselves, and gave chase to this unfor
tunate cat. But the "monster ofthe deep,"
being too nimble for them, again escaped their
vengeance. Some hours after, when all was
quiet, Tom, being disturbed in his residence
with the gods, determined unwisely to renew his
acquaintance with men ; and in the dead of the
night he returned to the house, and crept be
neath a coverlet under which a whole family was
lying, and there fell asleep. Unfortunately, his
purring awoke the man under whose cloth he
had crawled, who, supposing that some other
"monster" had come to disturb them, closed the
doorway, awoke the people of the house, and
procured lights to search for the intruder. Poor
Tom, fatigued with the two previous engage
ments of the day, lay quietly asleep, when the
warriors, with their clubs and spears, attacked
him most valiantly, and thought themselves sin
gularly brave in putting an end to this formid
able " monster"
The king, Makea, was among the last chiefs
of importance* who renounced idolatry. The
object of his adoration was a goddess, the great
Rangatira ; and the idolaters manifested deter
mined opposition to the destruction of this idol
and the burning of their marae. That, however,
was effected by the party to whom it belonged ;
and thus the reign of idolatry, although very
many still retained their idols and superstitions,
was virtually terminated at Rarotonga.
The teachers then recommenced the erection
of a place of worship, which being agreed to,
the greater part of the inhabitants assembled,
most of whom came to the work thoroughly
equipped for war.* The site selected for the
building was thickly covered with trees, and, as
there were but four or five axes in the island, the
clearing it was a great work. All, however, ap
peared anxious to assist, and although their tools
were rude, some using large shells, and others
stone axes, yet, as the people were numerous,
the work was soon effected. When the first
post was fixed, Makea, who had prepared a great
* It must he recollected, that the inhabitants of the
different districts of this island were always in a state of
hostility, and never, on any occasion, met unarmed;
that there had not yet been sufficient time for the prin
ciples of Christianity to produce mutual confidence
amungst its professors ; and that numbers were still
heathens.

THE WAR AT RAIATEA.

49

quantity of food to be apportioned to the various
districts, desired Tinomanatoimploreablessing;
and, in order that all present might see and hear,
he climbed a tree, and in that conspicuous situ
ation offered up a sensible prayer. The shape
ofthe building, the burningof the lime, and the
plastering of the house, excited feelings, and
drew forth expressions similar to those elicited
at Aitutaki.
Those who still remained heathen were con
tinually offering provocation to the Christians,
who, by not resenting their conduct, subjected
themselves to still greater annoyance, and one
of them, while passing through their district to
his own, was most severely beaten, and had one
of his ears torn nearly off. This led to a conflict
between the parties, in which the Christians
conquered. The victors then, as the custom was,
led the captives by their long hair down to the
sea-side, not however as formerly, to put them
to death, and feast upon their bodies, but to pre
sent them to the chiefs ; who, instead of order
ing them to be injured, advised them to embrace
this good religion, by which their differences
would be terminated, and the reign of harmony
and happiness established. To this they replied,
that, as they were now convinced of the supe
rior power of Jehovah, and had indubitable
proof of the merciful character of this new rehgion
by their lives being spared, they would at once
unite with their countrymen in the worship of
the only true God. The following day, they
demolished all the maraes, and brought their
rejected idols to the teachers. Thus terminated
the war, and, with it, the whole system of idol
atry in Rarotonga.
A portion of land in the Christian settlement
was then allotted to each individual, and many
of them erected a dwelling there, and became
and still continue among the most active, consist
ent, and devoted Christians. *
It is a very remarkable fact, that in no island
of importance has Christianity been introduced
without a war ; but it is right to observe that,
in every instance, the heathens have been the
aggressors. It was so both at Tahiti and Raia
tea. And as there were many circumstances
connected with the memorable battle between
the Christian and heathen parties at the latter
place, in which the interposition of a Divine
power was most conspicuous, and which led to
the entire subversion of idolatry in that and the
neighbouring island, I shall take this opportu
nity of recording them. Tamatoa, with most of
the" chiefs of the Society Islands, attended by a
large company of warriors, had gone to Tahiti
to assist in reinstating Pomare in his govern
ment ; and, when thus convened, the great work
of conversion commenced at that island ! Hav
ing been brought under its influence, the chiefs,
with their warriors, returned to their respective
islands, not conveying back the mangled bodies
of the victims slain in battle, to offer to the gods
* In giving the foregoing account of the overthrow of
idolatry in the island of Rarotonga, my readers will not
conclude that I approve of every measure the.teaehers
adopted. All I have done is faithfully to narrate the
facts. No. 4.

whose protection they had invoked, but the Gos
pel of peace. Upon the arrival of Tamatoa and
his followers at Opoa, the place " where Satan's
seat was " at Raiatea, a multitude was assembled
on the sea-beach to greet them, while the priests
were running to and fro, vociferating a welcome
in the name of the gods, and expressing a hope
that they had returned laden with victims. As
the chiefs canoe approached the shore, a herald
was commanded to stand upon an elevated
platform, who shouted in reply, " There are no
victims ; we are all praying people, and have
become worshippers of Jehovah, the true God ;"
and, holding up the elementary books which the
Missionaries had written for them, as they had
no printing-press at that time, he cried, " These
are the victims — these are the trophies with
which we have returned!" Soon after the ar
rival of Tamatoa and his party, a meeting was
convened, when the inhabitants of Raiatea were
informed of what had taken place at Tahiti, and
of the conversion of their friends to the Chris
tian religion. They were then invited to follow
their example. About a third of the people
agreed to the proposition. Shortly after this,
Tamatoa was taken exceedingly ill, and, every
effort to restore him to health having failed, it
was proposed by one of the Christians to destroy
Oro, the great national idol, and set fire to the
marae, suggesting that perhaps Jehovah was
angry with them for not having done this before.
After a consultation upon the proposition, it was
agreed that a party should go and carry it into
effect. Summoning all their courage, these pro
ceeded to the great marae at Opoa, took Oro
from his seat, tore off his robes, and set fire to
the sacred house. The heathen party were so
exasperated at this circumstance, that they de
termined to make war upon the Christians, and
put them all to death. For this purpose, they
invited the chief of Tahaa to come over with his
army, and assist them in effecting their object.
The more effectually to accomplish their design,
they erected a house, which they encircled with
the trunks of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees,
into which they resolved to thrust the Christians,
and then to set it on fire, and burn them alive.
Terrified at these and other frightful prepara
tions, Tamatoa sent frequent overtures of peace ;
but the invariable reply was, " There is no peace
for god-burners, until they have felt the effects
of the fire with which they destroyed Oro." As
a last resource, the chief sent his favourite
daughter ; and, a small shower of rain happen
ing to descend just as she entered the camp, a
priestess of Toimata, the daughter of Oro, com
menced singing the following stanza : —
" Thickly, thickly falls the small rain from theskies ;
'Tis the afflicted Toimata weeping for her sire.
This roused the spirit of the people to such a
pitch, that the heathens shouted simultaneously,
" There is no peace to be made with god-burners
until they have felt the effects of the fire with
which they destroyed Oro," and determined to
make the attack on the following day. The
night was a sleepless one with both parties ; tor
the heathens were employed m listening to tbe

so

THE WAR AT RAIATEA— ANSWER TO PROFESSOR LEE.

vociferations of their priests, in feasting, rioting
and exulting in the anticipated triumphs of the
coming day; while the Christians spent the
hours in prayer, and in raising an embankment
of stones, behind which to defend themselves as
long as possible. Early the next morning the
heathen party, withflyingbanners, the shout ofthe
warriors, and the sound ofthe trumpet-shell, bore
down in an imposing attitude upon the affrighted
Christians ; while they, on their bended knees,
were supplicating the protection of God against
the fury of their enemies, whose numbers, whose
frightful preparations and superstitious madness,
rendered them peculiarly formidable. A long
shoal of sand stretched from the shore of the
Christian encampment ; inconsequence of which
the heathen party were compelled to land at a
distance of half a mile from the spot. Before
they arrived at the place of disembarkation, one
of the Christians, formerly a noted warrior, said
to the chief, " Allow me to select all our effective
men, and make an attack upon the heathens,
while in the confusion of landing. A panic may
seize them, and God may work a deliverance
for us." The proposition was agreed to ; but
the chief himself said, " Before you go, let us
unite in prayer." Men, women, and children,
then knelt down outside their stone embank
ment, and the king implored the God of Jacob
to cover their head in the day of battle ; and on
concluding, thus addressed this little band of
faithful followers : " Now go, and may the pre
sence of Jesus go with you!" Taking a circui
tous route behind the brushwood, until he arrived
opposite to the place where the heathens were
landing, the commander extended his little army
as far as it would reach, and gave strict orders
that no noise should be made until they were
emerging from the bushes. The arrangement
proved most successful. The heathens were
seized with consternation, and, after a short re
sistance, threw away their arms, and fled for their
lives ; for they expected to have met with barba
rous treatment, similar to that which they would
have inflicted had they been the conquerors.
But, perceiving that no injury was sustained by
those of their brethren who fell into the hands
of the Christians, they peeped from behind the
bushes, or shouted from the trees in which they
had taken refuge, " Here am I ; spare my life,
by Jesus, your new God." The remainder of
the day was spent by the Christians in conduct
ing their prisoners into the presence of the chief,
who remained for several hours upon the very
spot where in the morning he commended his
little band to the protection of God. A herald
stood by his side, and shouted, as the fugitives
approached, " Welcome, welcome ; you are saved
by Jesus, and the influence of the religion of
mercy which we have embraced!" When the
chief of Tahaa, who led the heathen, was taken,
and conducted, pale and trembling, into the pre
sence of Tamatoa, he exclaimed, "Am I dead !"
His fears, however, were immediately dissipated
by his brother chieftain, who replied, " No, bro
ther; cease to tremble ; you are saved by Jesus."
A feast was immediately prepared for the pri
soners, when nearly a hundred large pigs were

baked whole with a proportionate quantity of
bread-fruit and other vegetables. The heathen
sat down to eat, but few could swallow their
food, being overwhelmed by the astonishing
events of the day. While they were thus seated
one of the party arose, and said, " This is my
little speech : Let every one be allowed to fol
low his own inclination; for my part, I will
never again, to the day of my death, worship the
gods who could not protect us in the hour of
danger! We were four times the number of
the praying people, yet they have conquered us
with the greatest ease. Jehovah is the true
God. Had we conquered them, they would, at
this moment, have been burning in the house
we made strong for the purpose ! but instead of
injuring us, or our wives, or our children, they
have prepared for us this sumptuous feast. Theirs
is a religion of mercy, I will go and unite my
self to this people." This declaration was lis
tened to with so much delight, and similar sen
timents were so universal, that every one of the
heathen party bowed their knees that very night,
for the first time, in prayer to Jehovah, and
united with the Christians in returning thanks
to Him for the victory he had on that anxious
day so graciously afforded them. On the follow
ing morning, after prayer, both Christians and
heathens issued forth and demolished every
marae in Tahaa and Raiatea ; so that, in three
days after this memorable battle, not a vestige
of idol worship remained in either of those is
lands ! All this will acquire additional interest
in the reader's estimation when he is informed,
that -it took place solely under the superintend
ence of the natives themselves, for at that time
there was no Missionary at either of the islands.
And here I would notice an assertion of Pro
fessor Lee, who ascribes the progress of Chris
tianity in the South Sea Islands to the aid it
derived from the civil power.* Now this state
ment is not founded in truth. Having wit
nessed the introduction of Christianity into a
greater number of islands than any other Mis
sionary, I can safely affirm, that in no single
instance has the civil power been employed in
its propagation. It is true that the moral
influence of the chiefs has, in many instances,
been most beneficially exerted in behalf of
Christianity ; but never, to my knowledge, have
they employed coercion to induce their subjects
to embrace it. And I feel satisfied, that in
few cases has the beautiful prediction been more
strikingly accomplished — " And kings shall be
thy nursing fathers, and their queens thy nursing
mothers." Had the Missionaries desired the
exercise of that power, the chiefs were not in a
condition to gratify them ; for they had to
defend themselves against the fury of a large
portion of their own subjects, by whom they
were so fiercely attacked. f I am, moreover,
happy, in being able to contradict the assertion
of Dr. Lee, because, were it true, it would have
detracted from the honour of Christ, by the
interposition of whose providence the great work
has been effected : " His own arm hath gotten
* See Professor Lee's second letter, &c , page 57.
t See also Ellis's Polynesian Researches, vol. i., p. 259.

FIRST KNOWLEDGE OF EUROPEANS.

51

him the victory." Further, itwould have dero
gated from the honour of Christianity, which
has triumphed, not by human authority, but by
its own moral power — by the light which it
spread abroad, and by the benevolent spirit it
disseminated ; for kindness is the key to the
human heart, whether it be that of savage or
civilised man ; and when, instead of being bar
barously murdered, they were treated with
kindness, the multitude immediately embraced
the truth ; for they naturally attributed this
mighty transformation in then* formerly san
guinary chieftains, to the benign influence of
the Gospel upon their minds.

CHAPTER XIIT.

A Tradition— How the Rarotongans first obtained the
Knowledge of the Europeans — They pray to their Gods
that Ships may visit their Island — A Ship, supposed to
have been the Bounty, arrives — The Tides — The un
soundness of Captain Beechy's theory — Peculiarities of
Rarotonga — Buteve the Cripple — Their Wars, Savage
Usages, &c. — Female Degradation — Grades in Society,
&c.
During our stay at Rarotonga, I obtained infor
mation from the natives upon a variety of sub
jects, some of which were both curious and
instructive. The first I shall mention is a legend
in reference to the peopling of their island.
Upon this subject the natives have several tra
ditions, in one of which there is a strange history
of Apopo iva roa, or the long-boned giant, who
is said to have walked to the island upon the
sea ; but this, with many others, I shall pass
over, and confine myself to the following, which,
divested of those portions that are evidently
fabulous, I regard as the correct account. It
states that Karika, the ancestor of the present
Makea family, came originally from an island
to the westward, named Manuka. This Karika
was a mighty warrior, a " man-killer,"and agreat
navigator, who, in his peregrinations at sea, dis
covered the island of Rarotonga. On landing, he
found it uninhabited ; and, after remaining there
some time, he again put to sea, and in this voy
age he met with Tangiia. This man was a chief of
Faaa, a district in Tahiti, who, by cutting down a
favourite bread-fruit tree, had so much exaspe
rated his brother, Tutabu aru roa, (or Tutabu,
the insatiable pursuer,) that he was determined
to put Tangiia and all Iris family to death.
On hearing this, Tangiia launched his large
canoe, and sought safety in flight ; and, taking
with him his family and followers, among
whom were two beautiful daughters, he sailed
for Huahine, which is about a hundred miles to
the westward of Tahiti, where he arrived in
safety. He had not, however, been there many
days, before Tutabu, with his Uni, or thousands,
entered the harbour of that island, with a deter
mination to destroy his brother. To escape his
vengeance, Tangiia set sail immediately for
Raiatea ; but was closely followed by Tutabu.
Continuing his flight, he sailed to Porapora,
where he had scarcely landed, when he again

found his pursuer at his heels. From hence
he proceeded to Maupiti, the last of the Society
Islands, but here also Tutabu followed him ;
when, seeing no possibility of escaping the fury
of his unrelenting foe, Tangiia, with his Uni,
launched upon the trackless ocean, in search of
a refuge where he might happen to find it.
After having been a long time at sea, he fell in
with Karika, from the island of Manuka, who
forthwith prepared for battle ; and, lashing his
canoe firmly to that of the poor unfortunate
Tangiia, was about to attack him, when he made
submission, by presenting to Karika the emblems
of supremacy, both civil and rehgious, saying,
" Tena mai te vaevae roa"- — " Yours is the long-
legged," or man belongs to you. " Tena mai
te vavaepoto" — "Yours is the short-legged," or
the turtle belongs to you ; which, being the
most sacred fish, was considered as an emblem
of supremacy in religious affairs. " Yours is
the butunga, apinga, katoatoa, or the source of
every treasure," reserving to himself only his
" takai kete," or thefood with which the people
of his own district might supply him. With
this Karika was satisfied, and having made a
friendly covenant with Tangiia, received from
him one of his beautiful daughters to wife. The
brave warrior then informed his friend of the
lovely island he had discovered, told him the
direction in which it lay, and promised, when
he had accomplished the object of his present
voyage, to return and settle there. Tangiia,
taking leave of his formidable ally, steered for
Rarotonga, and, on reaching it, took up his
residence on the east side. Karika returned to
the island some short time after, and, with his
tini, settled on the north side. But they had
not long enjoyed the comforts of repose, when,
to the astonishment and consternation of Tangiia,
the fleet of his determined enemy Tutabu was
descried off the harbour's mouth. The " relent
less pursuer" had determined to range the ocean
in search of his adversary, and now that he had
discovered him, felt confident that he should
effect his destruction. Tangiia immediately
despatched a messenger to inform his friend
Karika of Tutabu's arrival, and to request his
assistance in the ensuing battle; hoping that,
by an union of their forces, they might conquer
him. Karika accordingly collected his tini,
and went forthwith to the assistance of his
friend. A desperate engagement ensued, in
which Tutabu was conquered and killed. They
next had to bake him ; but this they found more
difficult than to kill him; for, although they
heated a large oven thoroughly, and put many
hot stones inside him, they found on opening
the oven that it was cold, and Tutabu quite
uncooked. Failing here, they conveyed the
body to the next district, where they prepared
another oven, and used a different kind of wood
for fuel, but with no better success. This process
they repeated in every district in the island, with
a similar result, until they came to the last, at
which they succeeded. For this reason they
gave to the district its present name of Taana,
which signifies "well done, or baked over
ao-ain." There is in this tradition a great deal
E 2

52

FIRST KNOWLEDGE OF EUROPEANS.

more of the fabulous than I have mentioned,
especially in relation to the canoe in which
Tangiia came to Rarotonga, which is said to
have been built in the invisible world, and to
have been conveyed by the birds to the top of
a mountain during one night, and on the next,
to have been removed from thence by the same
extraordinary carriers to a large canoe-house
erected by Tangiia for its reception. This cele
brated ship had nine or ten remarkable names,
taken from so many striking circumstances con
nected with its building, the manner in which it
was conveyed to this world, and other incidents,
the relation of which might perhaps gratify the
curious, but, from the press of more important
matter, I can only add, that its principal name
was Tarai-po, or "built in the invisible world."
This account, divested of the fabulous, is
certainly supported by existing circumstances ;
for, in the first place, the Tahitian and Society
islanders have other traditions respecting both
Tangiia and Tutabu, which state that they were
both great travellers, that they had a serious
quarrel about their lands, and that they dwelt
in the district of Faaa in Tahiti. Hence it may
be fairly assumed, that such persons did actually
exist, and that they were not, like the long-
boned giant, the mere creations of fancy. This
opinion is also supported by the fact, that the
islands from which these progenitors are said
to have come, are about equal distances from
Rarotonga, Tahiti being to the east, and Manuka
to the west of it. The language also of the
present inhabitants is pure Tahitian, with an
infusion of the hard consonants and nasal sounds
which characterise the dialects of tbe west. To
these we may add another striking evidence,
derived from the political divisions still exist
ing in the island. The people are, to the present
day, two distinct bodies, designated Ngati Karika
or the descendants of Karika ; and Ngati Tangiia,
the descendants of Tangiia ; the former still oc
cupying the north side of the island, and the
latter the east. It is also worthy of remark,
that the superior chieftainship is still vested in
the Karika family ; for, although the Ngati
Karika have been beaten many times, indeed
generally, by the descendants of Tangiia, yet the
conquerors agree in allowing them the supremacy
which they have possessed from time imme
morial. The present Makea is the twenty-
ninth of that family.*
The first knowledge and intercourse of the
Rarotongans with white people appears also to
be worthy of notice ; for, although Captain
Cook did not discover the island, we found that
the inhabitants had a knowledge of him before
our arrival, which they received partly from the
heathen woman of whom I have previously
spoken, and partly from some natives who were
• When we were preparing to depart for Raiatea, the
uncle of Makea, whom ne appointed as Regent, delivered
a most interesting address, in which he enumerated the
ancestry of the king, commencing with Makea Karika;
and for every one of whom he had a peculiar designation,
descriptive of his character, as was the case with the
Pharaohs of Egypt I much regret that I did not obtain a
correct report of thin address, as I listened to it with pe
culiar interest.

drifted from Tahiti down to Rarotonga in a canoe.
These arrived while the islanders were engaged
in a war ; and, supposing that the island was
uninhabited, two of their number went to a dis
tance in search of eels, where they fell into the
hands of the natives. Their companions ex
pecting to be killed, launched their canoe and
put again to sea, leaving their two friends be
hind them. The inhabitants, however, treated
them kindly, when they began to disclose the
wonders they had seen; informing them that
they were not the only people in the world, but
that a race existed entirely different from them
selves, who were quite white, and were called
Tute or Cook; that they traversed the ocean
for months together as on dry land ; that their
canoes were immensely large, and instead of
being tied and lashed with cinet, were held to
gether with " kurima " or iron : and that though
they had no outrigger, they did not overturn.
All this was astonishing information ; but the
Cookees were moreover represented by the
trumpeters of their fame as a very impious
people, who cared not for the gods, but walked
with the greatest unconcern about the maraes,
and even ate the sacred food. On hearing this,
the astonished inhabitants exclaimed, " Why do
you not drive them away, and ' seize all their
property!" To which it was replied, that they
were like the gods, and were out of their power;
adding, " If we attempt to hurt them, they blow
at us." " What," said the Rarotongans, "will
blowing at you hurt you !" When they were
informed that it was " not blowing at them with
the mouth, but with long things they call
pupuhi,* out of which comes fire and a stone,
which kills us in an instant, before we can get
near them with our spears." These two men
happened to have a small hatchet with them,
which had been obtained from Captain Cook's
vessel, and which they gave to the chief ; who,
instead of applying it to its proper purpose,
kept it very carefully to cut his food.
Onhearing all this important intelligence, the
natives commenced praying to their gods to
send Captain Cook to their island in his large
canoe, to bring them axes, nails, and guns.
The following was the substance of their prayer,
which was given to me by an old priest : " 0,
great Tangaroa, send your large ship to our
land ; let us see the Cookees. Great Tangiia,
send us a dead sea, send us a propitious gale,
to bring the far-famed Cookees to our island, to
give us nails, and iron, and axes : let us see
these outriggerless canoes." They then voci
ferated the names of all their gods, invoking
them to unite their energies in the accomplish
ment of this greatly-desired object; and con
cluded by a presentation of food, and a promise
of making still greater offerings, if they would
conduct the ship to their island. Not very long
after this, a large ship did actually arrive ; and
from the description the natives gave me of her,
I have no doubt but that it was tbe Bounty,
after she had been taken by the mutineers.
This vessel did not anchor, but one of the
• The native name for guns.

TIDES.

53

natives took his little canoe, and summoning
all his courage, ventured to go on board. On
returning to the shore, he told his astonished
countrymen that it was a floating island ; that
there were two rivers of water flowing on it ;
that two large taro plantations, with sugar
cane, bread-fruit, and other trees, were growing
there ; that the keel scraped the bottom of the
sea ; for he dived as deep as man could go, and
could not see its termination. I account for
these singular statements, by supposing that the
pumps were at work while the man was on
board, which he mistook for rivers, or streams,
and that the two plantations, bread-fruit trees,
&c, were the large boxes which were fitted up
throughout this vessel for those exotics, which
it was the specific object of the Bounty to con
vey from Tahiti to the West Indies. From this
vessel was obtained a pointed piece of iron,
about two feet six inches in length, which the
natives immediately dedicated to the gods ; and
finding that they could pierce the ground so
much more easily with the iron than with their
wooden tools, they were in the habit of borrow
ing it from the gods ; and when the food thus
planted was ripe, they invariably carried three
portions to the marae, the first of which was
dedicated as an expression of gratitude to the
deities for causing the food to grow ; the second,
in payment for the loan of the iron ; and the
third as a present, to induce them to conduct
ships there, that they might obtain more of that
valuable article.
Upon a variety of other interesting topics, in
reference to Rarotonga, I shall be equally brief.
Some, indeed, I must pass over altogether.
An observation or two, however, upon the tides,
should not be omitted. It is to the Missionaries
a well-known fact, that the tides in Tahiti and
the Society Islands are uniform throughout the
year, both as to the time of the ebb and flow,
and the height of the rise and fall ; it being
high-water invariably at noon and at midnight ;
and, consequently, the water is at its lowest
point at six o'clock in the morning and evening.
The rise is seldom more than eighteen inches
or two feet above low-water mark. It must be
observed, that mostly once, and frequently
twice in the year, a very heavy sea rolls over
the reef and bursts with great violence upon
the shore. But the most remarkable feature in
the periodically high sea is, that it invariably
comes from W. and S. W., which is the oppo
site direction to that from which the trade-wind
blows. The eastern sides of the islands are, I
believe, never injured by these periodical inun
dations. I have been thus particular in my
observations, for the purpose, in the first place,
of calling the attention of scientific men to this
remarkable phenomenon, as I believe it is
restricted to the Tahitian and Society Island
groups in the South Pacific, and the Sandwich
Islands in the north. I cannot, however, speak
positively respecting the tides at the islands east
ward of Tahiti ; but at all the islands I have
visited in the same parallel of longitude to the
southward, and in those to the westward, in the
same parallel of latitude, the same regularity is

not observed ; but the tides vary with the moon,
both as to the time and the height of the rise
and fall, which is the case at Rarotonga. Another
reason for which I have been thus minute is to
correct the erroneous statements of some scien
tific visitors. One of these, the notorious Kot-
zebue, observes, — " Every noon, the whole year
round, at the moment the sun touches the meri
dian, the water is highest, and falls with the
sinking sun till midnight."
Captain Beechy, when speaking upon the
tides, states, —
" The tides, in all harbours formed by coral
reefs are very irregular and uncertain, and are
almost wholly dependent upon the sea-breezes.
At Oututaunoa, it is usually low -water about
six every morning, and high-water half an hour
after noon. To make this deviation from the
ordinary course of nature intelligible, it will be
better to consider the harbour as a basin, over
the margin of which, after the breeze springs up,
the sea beats with considerable violence, and
throws a larger supply into it than the narrow
channels can carry off in the same time ; and
consequently, during that period the tide rises.
As the wind abates the water subsides, and, the
nights being generally calm, the water finds its
lowest level by the morning."
This statement is certainly most incorrect ;
for not only have I observed for years the un
deviating regularity of the tides, but this is so
well understood by the natives, that the hours
of the day and night are distinguished by terms
descriptive of its state. As, for example, instead
of asking, "What is the time!" they say,
" Where is the tide !" Nor can the tides, as
Captain B. observes, be " wholly dependent on
the sea-breeze;" for there are many days during
the year when it is perfectly calm, and yet the
tide rises and falls with the same regularity as
when the trade-winds blow ; and we very fre
quently have higher tides in calms than during
the prevalence of the trade-wind. Beside which,
the tides are equally regular on the westward
or leeward side of the islands, which the trade-
wind does not reach, as on the eastward, from
which point it blows. But the perfect fallacy
of Captain Beechy's theory will he still more
apparent, if it be recollected that the trade-
wind is most powerful from mid-day till about
four or five o'clock, during which time the tide
is actually ebbing so fast that the water finds its
lowest level by six o'clock in the evening ; and
that in opposition to the strength of the sea-
breeze. Captain Beechy adds, " that the nights
being calm, the water finds its lowest level by
morning ;" whereas the fact is, that the water
finds its highest point at midnight, when it is
perfectly calm. How, then, can the tides be
dependent on the sea-breeze !
It is to me a matter of regret that scientific
men, when writing upon these subjects, do not
avail themselves of the facts which Missionaries
might supply ; for while we make no preten
sions to great scientific attainments, we do not
hesitate to assert, that it is in our power to
furnish more substantial data on which to philo
sophise, than co*Uld be obtained by any tran-

54

STATE OF CULTIVATION— A SPIRITUAL BEGGAR.

sient visitor, however profound in knowledge,
or diligent in research.
Without making any further observations on
the beautiful appearance of the rocks, hills, and
valleys of Rarotonga, I shall hasten to observe
one or two particulars in which it differs from
the Society and other Islands ; leaving several
other points to be noticed in a concluding
chapter. One valuable peculiarity of this lovely
island is, the extent of its low land. In many
of the islands, the mountains approach so near
to the sea as to leave but little arable land ; but
this is not, to my recollection, the case in any
part of Rarotonga. Its soil also must be ex
ceedingly rich, or the climate peculiarly adapted
to the fruits which grow there ; for, on our
arrival, we were astonished to see the taro* and
kape, the ti and sugar-cane growing luxuriantly
nearly down to the edge of the sea. The whole
island was also in a high state of cultivation, and
I do not recollect having witnessed anything
more beautiful than the scene presented to me,
when standing on the side Of one of the hills,
and looking towards the sea-shore. In the first
place, there are rows of superb chestnut-trees,
inoearpus, planted at equal distances, and
stretching from the mountain's base to the sea,
with a space between each row of about half a
mile wide. This space is divided into small
taro beds, which are dug four feet deep, and can
be irrigated at pleasure. These average about
half an acre each. The embankments round
each bed are thrown up with a slope, leaving a
flat surface upon the top of six or eight feet in
width. The lowest parts are planted with taro,
and the sides of the embankment with kape or
gigantic taro, while on the top are placed, at
regular intervals, small beautifully shaped bread
fruit-trees. The pea-green leaves of the taro,
the extraordinary size and dark colour of the
kape lining the sloping embankment, together
with the stately bread-fruit-trees on the top,
present a contrast which produces the most
pleasing effect.
There is a good road round the island, which
the natives call ara medua, or the parent path,
both sides of which are lined with bananas and
mountain plantains ; which, with the Barring-
tonia, chestnut, and other trees of wide-spread
ing foliage, protect you from the rays of the
tropical sun, and afford even in mid-day the
luxury of cool, shady walks of several miles in
length. The houses of the inhabitants were
situated from ten to upwards of thirty yards
from this pathway, and some of them were ex
ceedingly pretty. The path leading up to the
house was invariably strewed with white and
black peebles ; and on either side were planted
the tufted-top "i-tree or draccena, which bears a
chaste and beautiful blossom, interspersed al
ternately with the gigantic taro. Six or eight
stone seats were ranged in front of the premises,
by the side of the " parent pathway." These
were relics of antiquity, some of which were
regarded with much veneration by the people,
who, while they pointed to them, would say,
" Here, my father, grandfather, or the great
* Arum esculentum.

chief so-and-so sat." They were generally
formed of two smooth stones, the one serving as
a seat, and the other sunk in the earth to form
the back.
Here, in the cool of the evening, after the
labours of the day, with a wreath of flowers on
their brow, anointed with a sweet-scented oil,
and wearing a new tiputa or the shining pakaku,*
sat the inmates of the house to chat with any
loquacious passenger about the events of their
own little world. It was thus I met with the
spiritual beggar Buteve.
In passing one evening from Mr. Buzacott's
to Mr. Pitman's station, my attention was ar
rested by seeing a person get off one of these
seats, and walk upon his knees into the centre of
the pathway, when he shouted, " Welcome,
servant of God, who brought light into this dark
island ; to you are we indebted for the word of
salvation." The appearance of his person first
attracted my attention; his hands and feet being
eaten off by a disease which the natives call ko-
kovi, and which obliged him to walk upon his
knees ; but, notwithstanding this, I found that
he was exceedingly industrious, and not only
kept his kainga in beautiful order, but raised food
enough to support his wife and three children.
The substitute he used for a spade in tilling the
ground was an instrument called the ko, which
is a piece of iron-wood, pointed at one end.
This he pressed firmly to his side, and leaning
the weight of his body upon it, pierced the
ground, and then scraping out the earth with
the stumps of his hands, he would clasp tbe ba
nana or taro plant, place it in the hole, and then
fill in the earth. The weeds he pulled up in
the same way. In reply to his salutation, I
asked him what he knew of the word of salva
tion. He answered, "1 know about Jesus
Christ, who came into the world to save sin
ners." On inquiring what he knew about Jesus
Christ, he replied, " I know that he is the Son
of God, and that he died painfully upon the
cross to pay for the sins of men, in order that
their souls might be saved, and go to happiness
in the skies." I inquired of him if all the peo
ple went to heaven after death! "Certainly
not," he replied ; " only those who believe in
the Lord Jesus, who cast away sin, and who
pray to God." " You pray, of course !" I con
tinued. " O yes," he said, " I very frequently
pray as I weed my ground and plant my food,
but always three times a-day, beside praying
with my family every morning and evening." I
asked him what he said when he prayed. He
answered, " I say, ' O Lord, I am a great sinner,
may Jesus take my sins away by his good blood ;
give me the righteousness of Jesus to adomme,
and give me the good Spirit of Jesus to instruct
me, and make my heart good, to make me a man
of Jesus, and take me to heaven when I die.' "
"Well," I replied, "that, Buteve, is very excel
lent, but where did you obtain your knowledge !"
" From you, to be sure ; who brought us the
news of salvation but yourself !" " True," I re
plied, " hut I do not ever recollect to have seen
* Native cloth, in the manufacture of which the Ra
rotongans excel.

THEIR WARS DESOLATING— CRUEL PRACTICES IN WAR.

55

you at either of the settlements to hear me speak
of these things, and how do you obtain your
knowledge of them!" "Why," he said, "as the
people return from the services, I take my seat
by the way-side, and beg a bit of the word of
them as they pass by ; one gives me one piece,
another another piece, and I collect them to
gether in my heart, and, by thinking over what
I thus obtain, and praying to God to make me
know, I understand a little about his word."
This was altogether a most interesting incident,
as I had never seen the poor cripple before, and
I could not learn that he had ever been in a
place of worship. His knowledge, however,
was such as to afford me both astonishment and
delight, and I seldom passed his house, after this
interview, without holding an interesting con
versation with him.
Between each district was left a space of un
cultivated land, generally about half a mile in
width. On these wastes their battles were most
frequently fought ; for the inhabitants of each
district invariably used every exertion to prevent
their opponents from making encroachments
upon their kaingas, or cultivated lands, and
therefore disputed, with the greatest pertinacity,
every inch of the uncultivated waste ; nor did
they, until entirely driven off, yield their posses
sions to the hands of the spoiler. But since
the introduction of Christianity, many of these
wastes have been cultivated.
Their wars were exceedingly frequent. They
had just been engaged in a disastrous conflict
when we discovered the island. Pa and Kai-
nuku, with the inhabitants of the eastern dis
trict, had been fighting with Makea and Tino
mana, the chiefs of the north and west sides of
the island, when the latter were beaten, and
Makea, with his people, driven away from their
possessions, to which, however, peace having
been restored, they had returned about a month
or two prior to my first arrival. The sad effects
of these contests were then and are still apparent ;
for the laws of savage warfare appear to be like
those of civilised countries, to " burn, kill, and
destroy:" and there is not one old cocoa-nut
tree to be seen on the north-west or south sides
of the island. A few old bread-fruit trees still
rear their lonely heads, having survived the in
juries which they received from the hands of the
devastating conquerors. Walking one day with
the king, among the groves of banana and bread
fruit trees, and observing the mutilations, I asked
him jocosely, whilst pointing to one of them, why
all the bark was stripped off ; and, turning to
another, inquired why so deep a gash was cut in
it; and wished to know what had become of
the cocoa-nut trees, against the stumps of which
we were continually striking our feet. To this
he replied, " You know very well that we were
conquered, and why do you banter me! We
were fools enough to fight with the trees as well
as with men ; some we cut down ourselves, lest
our enemies should eat the fruit of them ; and
others our conquerors destroyed. If it were
possible, I would put new bark on all these trees,
and fill up the gashes in the trunks of the others ;
for, wherever I go, they stare me in the face,

and remind me of my defeat. However, young
trees are growing fast, and I am planting cocoa-
nuts in all directions, so that my possessions will
soon be equally valuable with those of our con
querors ; and I am under no apprehension of
having them again destroyed, — for the Gospel
has put an end to our wars !"
I inquired of the chief how they killed the
cocoa-nut trees with such facility, when he in
formed me, that scarcely any tree could be de
stroyed with greater ease. One of the methods
by which they effected it was singular : — it was to
place a large sea-snail, called the beach le mer,
on the crown of the tree, around the sprout, and
allow it to rot there. Another mode was, to
beat the crown with a small stone. Soon after
this was done, the tuft of plumy leaves, surround
ing the top of the tree, faded and fell, leaving
the barren, naked trunk, of immense length,
standing for years afterwards. This is accounted
for in the following manner :
Almost all trees belong to one of two great
divisions of the vegetable kingdom : Exogents or
Endogente. The former is so named from the
circumstance of their receiving increase of matter,
which is arranged externally, as regards the old
layers. Buds are the organs provided for supply
ing the materials constituting the stem : and since
in this class there is an indefinite quantity, the
destruction of one or more does not in the
slightest degree endanger the life of the plant.
The contrary, however is the case in Endogence,
(to which class the cocoa-nut belongs,) one bud
alone keeping up a supply of matter necessary
to the existence of the plant, by the descent of
newly-formed fibre into the innermost part of
the stem (not the exterior, as in Exogence). It
consequently follows, that the innermost part is
more susceptible of injury than the exterior ; and
if the central bud, the source ofthe newly -formed
matter, be destroyed, a stop is suddenly put to
the process of its growth, and death ensues.
Their wars, I think, may also be considered
sanguinary. In the one which raged just prior
to our first visit, the king informed me, that
"fourscore and ten were slain," on the side of
the conquerors, and " five score " on that of the
conquered. Female prisoners were very fre
quently put to death ; and the reason assigned
for this cruel practice was, that they might, per
chance, give birth, at some future period, to
warriors. The poor little children had spears
passed through their ears, and were carried in
triumph to the marae. Of late years as soon as
an antagonist was overcome in battle, the victor
beat in his skull ; and taking out a portion of
his brains, he placed it upon bread-fruit leaves,
and carried it immediately to the gods, as an
earnest of the victim he was about to bring.
This practice originated in thefollowing incident.
During an engagement, a man named Karavai
succeeded, as he imagined, in killing his oppo
nent, Oromea, and ran off instantaneously to the
marae, with bread-fruit leaves, as an earnest of
the victim about to be dedicated to the gods ;
hut before he returned, Oromea, who was only
stunned, recovered from the effects of the blow,
hastened to his own district, collected his friends,

56 FEMALE DEGRADATION— GRADES IN SOCIETY— MR. PLATT'S VOYAGE.

and composed the following song in ridicule of
his conqueror ; which, in the evening, they tri
umphantly sang, accompanied by drumming and
dancing : —
Tcri ran liuru uaite ataa a Karavai e .'
Kua ki a Vairota e I
Kare i tutulli tika ia Oromea e J
Te noto ua ra te Tuporo i Te manga e !
What a carrying of bread-fruit leaves is Karavai's to his
gods, 0!
He has filled Vairota !*
But has not killed completely Oromea;
For he is now drumming and dancing merrily at Te
manga, O ! t
After this, in order to escape similar ridicule,
the warriors determined to make sure of their
victim by presenting his brains to the gods in
stead of bread-fruit leaves ; concluding, that in
this way they would most effectually prevent the
object of their vengeance from singing and
dancing in sarcastic triumph. This having been
presented, as soon as the whole of the inhabitants
of the district could be convened, they fastened
a rope to the legs of the corpse, and then dragged
it as though it were a log of wood, to the great
marae, with songs of savage exultation.
Females at Rarotonga, like those of the So
ciety Islands, were treated as inferiors. They
were neither allowed to eat certain kinds of food,
which were reserved for the men and the gods,
nor to dwell under the same roof with their
tyrannical masters ; but were compelled to take
their scanty meal of inferior provisions at a dis
tance, while the "lords of creation" feasted
upon the " fat of the land," and the " abundance
of the sea." In one respect, the treatment of
females at this island was materially worse than
that which obtained in the Tahitian and Society
groups ; for whilst in tbe latter females had a
share of their fathers' possessions, at Rarotonga
these went to the male branches of the family,
and seldom, if ever, to the daughters, on the
ground, as they alleged, that " their person was
their portion." This circumstance may have
contributed to render the females of Rarotonga
less fickle and fastidious than the ladies of the
Tahitian and Society Islands ; for let a man's
possessions be ever so great in the latter, if his
person is not attractive, they will not accept his
overtures. I think, also, that the females of
Rarotonga are more faithful, industrious, and
affectionate than those of Tahiti. During the
sickness, which prevailed shortly after our ar
rival, we were delighted at beholding the tender
sympathy and unremitting attention which they
showed to their sick husbands. Enter their
habitations when we would, by night or by day,
the head of the afflicted husband was in the lap
of his affectionate wife ; while she beat off the
annoying flies, bathed his temples with water,
or eased pain by the gentle pressure of the tau-
rumi.% At Rarotonga there is not such an equality of
• Name ofthe marae.
f The name of his own district.
JThe taurumi differs from the Indian shampooing, it
being a gentle squeezing, or compression of the afhicted
part with a soft hand — and the sensation is peculiarly
grateful.

rank as at Tahiti, but <a man is great according
to the number of his kaingas, or farms, which
contain from one to four or five acres each.
These are let to tenants, who, like the vassals
in the ancient feudal system, obey the orders of
their superior, assist him in the erection of his
house, in building a canoe, making fishing-nets,
and other occupations, besides bringing him a
certain portion ofthe produce of his lands. This
gives to the chiefs a degree of respectability.
And here we may observe that four distinctions
of rank obtain among the Rarotongans — the
ariki, or king : the mataiapo, or governors of
districts ; the rangatira, or landholders ; and the
unga, or tenants. Besides the minor districts,
there are three grand divisions in the island,
governed by the four principal chiefs, Pa, Kai-
nuku, Tinomana, and Makea, the last of whom
enjoys a limited supremacy over the whole. In
consequence of these ancient political divisions,
it was thought desirable to have three distinct
Missionary settlements ; by which arrangement
all the inhabitants now reside with their beloved
Missionary, under their respective chiefs, and
near their own plantations, enjoying the in
estimable blessing of Christian instruction, and
" sitting under their own vine and fig-tree,"
or rather under their own bread-fruit and ba
nana groves, "none making them afraid."

CHAPTER XIV.

Mr, Piatt's Voyage — Intelligence from Rarotonga-»-The
Vincennes and the Seringapatam arrive at Raiatea—
Missionary Meetings — Native Speeches— Interesting
interview with Captain Waldegrave— Preparations for
our Voyage.
The first voyage which the Messenger of Peace
took after being thoroughly fitted out was to
convey Messrs. Pritchard and Simpson to the
Marquesan Islands ; the Directors having de
termined to endeavour to re-establish the
mission among the savage inhabitants of that
group. This voyage, together with the time
consumed in effecting the necessary alterations
in the vessel, occupied about twelve months ;
at the expiration of which, she sailed for the
Hervey Islands, and my esteemed brother Mis
sionary, Mr. Piatt, undertook to visit them. He
found all the missions in a pleasing state, al
though our dear friends at Rarotonga had
endured some very severe trials. An extract
from some of the letters which we received on
the return of my colleague will enable the reader
to form a correct estimate of the peculiarly dis
tressing circumstances in which the mission
families were for a time placed. The first is
from Mrs. Buzacott to Mrs. Williams.
Rarotonga, December 30, 1829.
My dear Mrs. Williams,
Had you not requested it, I should cer
tainly have written to you by the return of this
vessel, because I know you must feel interested
in all that relates to Rarotonga. It is natural
for me to begin by saying, how much we have
been disappointed at the unexpected delay of
the vessel. We thought that Mr. Williams was

MRS. BUZACOTT'S LETTER— MR. PITMAN'S LETTER.

57

another of Pharaoh's butlers. I cannot tell you
half of our feelings of disappointment during the
months we have been expecting it ; but now
that we arS favoured with the company of a
brother Missionary, we forget much that is past.
Many and various have been our trials since you
left us. They commenced on the part of Makea,
who, after his return from Raiatea, became
exceedingly haughty and unkind. Very little
food was brought to us, and ill-disposed persons,
observing the king's conduct, began to steal.
We were obliged to talk of leaving them ; but
when they heard of our intention they became
alarmed, and have since been extremely kind.
You recollect the contentions between Nga-
tangiia and Tupapa, respecting some portions of
land. These became so violent, that war was
daily expected for months. The contending
parties commenced skirmishing several times,
but the judges succeeded in preventing them
from proceeding to a regular engagement. This
vexed them, and then, to be avenged, they set
fire at night to the houses of the judges.
You know not what we suffered at this time,
with the alarms of war by day, and fire by night ;
and, had an opportunity then offered, I am not
certain but that we should have considered it
our duty to leave them, as I was in a very weak
state, and expecting soon to be confined. We
had built a new school-house, which was twice
burnt down, with several other houses. Many
more were set on fire also at Mr. Pitman's
station, including the new chapel which Mr. W.
built. A brother of Tumu was caught in the
act of setting fire to our chapel. He was se
verely punished, and we have had no house-
burning since. At the same time a tremendous
mountain-torrent rushed down behind our
house, which obliged us with precipitation to
remove all our property ; the bustle and fright
of which was too much for me. I was removed
to Makea's new house, and confined there to
my bed for some days. Mrs. Pitman then
kindly left her own home, and came to live with
us until after my confinement. Our heavenly
Father was better than our fears, and compelled
us to praise him for his goodness. Our dear
little girl was baptized by Mr. Pitman about a
fortnight after : her name is Sarah Ann. Not
another fortnight had elapsed when I was seized
with a violent internal inflammation ; and we
again sent for our neighbours, who came immedi
ately to our assistance. The attack was severe :
I was twice bled ; and, indeed, every method was
used that our little skill suggested, and it pleased
God to give his blessing. We had anticipated a
separation ; for our means were few, the symp
toms very acute, and our stock of medicine long
before exhausted ; so that our hearts were much
affected by the goodness of God, in appearing
for our relief. I recovered gradually, though
slowly. You will know that we have been the subjects
of privations, when I tell you that we have
seen no one, since the vessel brought Makea
back, until the arrival of Mr. Piatt; but,
what is still worse, our supplies are not now
come. We are both wearing the last shoes we

have : and, as we have been formerly supplied
by Mr. Pitman with shoes as well as medicine,
I know not what we shall do. Should any goods
arrive for us, do request Mr. Williams to forward
them immediately. I am much obliged to you
for what you have sent, &c. ; it is, indeed, very
acceptable. We think the news of a visit from
Mr. Williams is almost too good to be true.
We are. sorry to hear of the loss of your two
children ; — but cease to grieve ; it is their un
speakable gain. Yours affectionately, S. V. Buzacott.
The next is an extract from Mr. Pitman to
the Author : —
Ngatangiia, December 30th, 1829.
My dear Brother,
Your kind epistle came duly to hand. We
were very much afraid that something had
occurred to the vessel at the Marquesas, but all
our fears are now removed. I believe when I
wrote last it was a letter of sympathy, in con
sequence of the loss of your dear little babe,
and the very next I received from you brings
the sad intelligence of the birth and death of
another. Well, my dear brother, what shall we
say to these things ! Shall we murmur ! shall
we say God deals unkindly ! This would be
sinful. Are they not before the throne of God
and the Lamb, and made perfectly holy even as
the angels of God! Had you your choice, what
better thing or better place could you have
wished for your little ones ! Let the contem
plation, that they are now jewels, adorning the
crown of Immanuel, dry up your tears. We
feel much for you both, but especially for Mrs.
W. May the Lord support her mind, strength
en her faith, and give entire resignation to his
will !
Since you left us we have been exposed to
war, fire, and water.
***** After giving me a full account of these dis
astrous events, which took place at Avarua, he
observes : —
They commenced with us, and set Tupe's
house in a blaze, which communicated to his
sons, and then to our chapel, which, in a few
hours, was laid waste. Our house, which stood
just behind Papeiha's, was in great danger, but
escaped. For weeks afterwards these bad fel
lows were thus engaged. Since that our chapel
has been again rebuilt, and a school-house, 90
feet by 36, on the sea-side. The people gene
rally have behaved exceedingly kind to us from
the beginning. They do everything to make us
happy. Om- chapel and schools are well at
tended ; some of our boys are getting on, and
can read pretty well. They have read twice
through the Hebrews, John, &C Thanks to
you for translating and getting these valuable
books printed for us. In consequence of our
unsettled affairs, I have not been able to do
much. I have translated nine chapters of the
Acts, and by the time you come down I hope
it will be finished, with the scripture Cate
chisms, &c.
I am sorry to say Mrs. P. continues very

58 THE VINCENNES— CAPTAIN WALDEGRAVE— THE SERINGAPATAM.

poorly, but bears up with great fortitude under
her afflictions. She is not able to attend so
much to the instruction of the females as she
otherwise would. Yours very affectionately, C. P.
The important time had now arrived for com
mencing the voyage on wiiich my mind had been
so long set, and for which the Messenger of
Peace was built. The Rev. T. East, and the
Rev. J. A. James of Birmingham, had gene
rously responded to my call, and forwarded a
large supply of ironmongery for the undertaking.
Everything appeared to favour, nothing to
impede the design, and my beloved fellow-
labourer, Mr. Barff, had consented to accompany
me. My own people also entered into my pro
positions with so much zeal, that, on the an
nouncement of my intentions, eight members of
our church offered their services for this enter
prise of mercy. A meeting was then held to
consider the fitness of these individuals for the
work ; when we were favoured with the presence
of the Rev. Mr. Stewart,* the chaplain, and a
pious officer of the United States ship Vin-
cennes, which was anchored off our settlement.
At this meeting many excellent speeches were
delivered by the natives. One of them contained
a pretty allusion to the visit of the Vincennes,
and the objects of Captain Finch, the com
mander, ingeniously applied to our contem
plated voyage. "A large man-of-war," said
the speaker, " is now with us. She has come
afar with kind intentions towards ourselves, and
those like us. Her object is to learn our con
dition, and to encourage us to seek our own
welfare. Her officers have their reward : they
are covered and crowned with gold ; — they wear
gold on their shoulders and gold on their heads ;
(alluding to the lace and epaulets of their uni
form ;) this is their reward. My thought is,
that we also send a vessel to do good to those
who are more ignorant and destitute than our
selves. Those of us who go on this expedition
will not, like these our friends, be crowned with
gold as a reward. No ! they will receive
nothing, perhaps in this world : still they will
be crowned. Yes, theirs shall be a crown of
eternal life, given to them at last by their Lord
and Master Jesus Christ."
While fitting out the Messenger of Peace,
we were visited by one of Her Britannic Ma
jesty's frigates, commanded by the Honourable
Captain Waldegrave, from which gentleman we
received many kind attentions. Among other
things he very obligingly supplied us with green
paint to beautify our little vessel for our antici
pated voyage. Soon after their arrival, the
Captain and his officers attended, in full uni
form, to pay their respects to the authorities of
the island, as well as to Pomare, the Queen of
Tahiti, who, with her husband, mother, and
aunt, the Regent, was there on a visit to
Tamatoa, the patriarch of royalty. After the
ceremonies of introduction, Tamatoa, the king
• Mr. S. was formerly a Missionary to the Sandwich
Islands, and is well known by his interesting writings.

of Raiatea, and Pomare, his grand-daughter,
with other branches of the family, entered an
inner apartment, and returned shortly after
wards with fine mats and native cloth, which
they laid at Captain W.'s feet, and begged him
to accept them. A quantity of native pro
visions, cocoa-nuts, bananas, taro, &c, with
several hogs, were brought and placed in full
view before the door ; when a speaker, with an
oratorical attitude and loud voice, enumerated
the whole, which he submitted to the disposal
of the captain, as an expression of the pleasure
they felt in welcoming himself and officers to
their island. Captain W. kindly received their
gifts, and made them some valuable presents in
return. At the invitation of Captain Waldegrave,
Pomare, Tamatoa, Maihara, the late excellent
regent of Huahine, and other branches of the
family, dined on board the Seringapatam, and
I was requested to accompany the party, and to
act as interpreter. After dinner we were con
ducted through the immense vessel, every part
of which excited the astonishment ofthe visitors.
Captain W. expressed himself pleased with the
manner in which his sable friends had behaved.
The Queen of Tahiti and Maihara were well
dressed, wearing black silk gowns and hand
some bonnets of fine English straw, trimmed
with ribbons and flowers, which had been given
to them by Captain Laws, commander of the
Satellite sloop-of-war, who visited the island
some months before ; which gentleman also
took a lively interest in our labours, attended
the examination of our schools, and distributed,
with his own hands, valuable presents of
scissors, knives, ribbons, &c, to those scholars
who excelled. Indeed I very gladly embrace
this opportunity of stating that the commanders
and officers of those vessels of war, both from
England and the United States of America,
which have visited the stations occupied by
myself, have, without exception, evinced the
same friendly disposition.
The countenance of such gentlemen has been
of inestimable advantage in the prosecution of
our arduous labours, by strengthening the con
fidence of the people in their Missionaries ; but
more especially by counteracting the base
insinuations and vile misrepresentations of run
away sailors and others, who have occasionally
caused us much inconvenience ; of which the
following instance may afford a good illustration.
A convict from New South Wales had escaped
to the islands. He was certainly a well-
educated and clever rogue ; and, having fixed
his residence at the neighbouring island of
Tahaa, he ingratiated himself into the favour
of the chiefs and people, by telling them that
they were selling their hogs and provisions at a
price far too small, in receiving but eight or ten
yards of print for a pig, whereas, in England,
one joint was sold for more than they obtained
for the whole ; and that the Missionaries, from
interested motives, were keeping them in the
dark upon these subjects ; but that, if they
would allow him to manage their trade with
the shipping, he would procure for them five or

ADVANTAGES DERIVED FROM MISSIONARY MEETING.

59

ten times as much. All this was grateful to
the chiefs and people, who, in consequence,
appointed him their agent. Thus countenanced,
he soon began to speak disrespectfully of the
Missionary; and carried his insolence so far,
that one week-day afternoon he entered the
chapel, and upbraided him with not having told
the people to demand higher prices for their
property. Inflated with ideas of his own im
portance, he drew up a list of every article they
had to dispose of, with the price attached. For
instance, he set down, as one item, a large pig,
for which they were to demand a new black
coat, and other things in proportion. The
natives met to consider the subject, were highly
delighted with the proposal, and despatched a
messenger with the list of prices to Tamatoa,
for his approbation, without which they could
not execute their plans. The good old chief
sent the paper for my opinion. I returned it,
saying, that he and his chiefs were at full liberty
to act as they pleased, for a document from a
rogue was beneath my notice. In consequence
of this, Tamatoa and his chiefs returned tbe
following answer to their brethren, — " That, if
the man would bring his ship with his black
coats, and beautiful shawls, he should have all
the jligs and arrow-root in the island ; but if
his ship, his black coats, and shawls, were only
in his mouth, he was a liar, and unworthy of
regard; being one of those bad men, against
whom captains of vessels of war had lately
warned them."
As the Seringapatam arrived a few days
before om- Annual Missionary Meeting in May,
we enjoyed the company of Captain Waldegrave
and his officers during the services of the day,
which commenced about ten o'clock, and con
tinued, with slight intermissions, till six. After
morning service, Captain Waldegrave, his
officers, and ourselves, dined at the King's
house; while the whole congregation were
feasting in an open space outside, where the
ground was overlaid with fresh grass, and the
company screened from the rays of the sun by
awnings of native cloth. More than a thousand
persons dined together, all of whom were
seated on sofas, chairs, or stools of their own
manufacture, around tables groaning under the
weight of baked pigs, fish, bread-fruit, bananas,
sweet potatoes, puddings of arrow-root, cocoa-
nut, &c. Satisfaction beamed on every coun
tenance, and the people " eat their food with
gladness." After dinner, and even while eating,
several natives addressed the company, con
trasting, in striking and animated language,
their present comfort and happiness with their
former misery and degradation.
At about half past two, or three o'clock, we
re-assembled in our chapel to conduct the
business of our auxiliary. In order to give our
respected guests a greater degree of interest
in the proceedings of the day, I not only wrote
in English the order of the meeting, with the
resolutions to be proposed, but engaged to
interpret the address of each speaker. Tamatoa,
the king, took the chair, and called upon one
of the native Christians to give out a hymn,

and implore the Divine presence. He selected
for the occasion the Jubilee hymn, " Blow ye
the trumpet, blow," which had been translated
into the native language. After this, the
venerable chairman, who himself was formerly
worshipped as a god, opened the business in an
interesting speech ; and then requested the
native secretary to read the list of subscriptions.*
The resolutions were then proposed, seconded,
and carried by a show of hands, with the regu
larity observed at similar meetings in our own
country. One of these expressed pleasure at
the presence of Captain Waldegrave and his
officers, and tendered to them the thanks of the
chiefs and people for their obliging attentions.
To these gentlemen the native Christians, who
proposed and seconded this motion, addressed
their observations, and Captain Waldegrave
replied, by expressing the sincere pleasure he
had derived from seeing them in such a state,
and by pointing out the inestimable advantages
of knowledge in general, but especially of that
contained in the Scriptures. He then, after
having kindly recommended the people to
continue their attendance on the instructions
of the Missionaries, his countrymen, to whom
they were so much indebted, assured them that
he should not fail to inform his numerous friends
in England, who took a lively interest in their
welfare, of what he had seen and heard. After
this, the teachers, who were about to leave
country, relatives, and friends, to convey the
glad tidings of salvation to the .still barbarous
inhabitants of distant islands, took an affection
ate farewell of their brethren, whom they en
treated to bear them on their hearts when at
the throne of grace. It was a day of peculiar
delight to the people ; and the circumstance of
our being about to embark on the greatest Mis
sionary enterprise we had yet undertaken, the
parting addresses of the teachers, the presence
of so many respectable visitors, with the im
portant advice and appropriate counsels of the
Honourable Captain Waldegrave, contributed
to invest the proceedings with unprecedented
interest. Being occupied as interpreter of the addresses,
I was prevented from taking them down, ac
cording to my usual practice. An accurate
idea, however, may be formed of their character,
by a few extracts from those of the previous
year : —
" On that occasion the first speaker arose
and said: My friends, let us this afternoon
remember our former state — how many children
were killed, and how few were kept alive ; but
now none are destroyed. Parents now behold
with pleasure their three, five, and even their
ten children ; the majority of whom would have
been murdered, had not God sent his word to
* The people, having no coin, contribute arrow-root
and cocoa-nut oil. These we generally sold to merchant-
ships that touched there, and transmitted the money
to the Treasurer in London. On one occasion, I had
the pleasure of forwarding, for between two or three
years, no less a sum than 300-., about 27/. of which was
contributed in one year by the school children only.
The whole of the amount I have sent from my station
at Raiatea is about 700 '.

60

SPEECHES OF THE NATIVES.

us. Now hundreds of these are daily taught the
word of God. We knew not that we possessed
that invaluable property — a living soul. Neither
our wise ancestors, nor Oro, nor any of our
former gods, ever told us so. But Jehovah
caused compassion to grow in the hearts of the
good Christians of England, who formed a
Society, purchased a ship, and sent Missionaries
to tell us that we had souls — souls that will
never die ; and now we are dwelling in comfort,
and hope for salvation through Jesus Christ.
But do all the lands of darkness possess the
same knowledge ! Do all know that they have
never-dying souls ! — that there is one good and
one bad place for every soul after death ! Do
all know that Jesus Christ came into the world
to save sinners ! No ! some are worshipping
idols ; some are killing themselves, and others
their children. Then let us send them Mis
sionaries to teach them the good word which we
have been taught."
The following address was delivered by
Fenuapeho, the chief of Tahaa, who led on the
heathen party in the battle at Raiatea, of which
I have given an account. He said — -
" Praise to God well becomes us : but let it
be heart-praise. All the work we do for God
must be heart-work  We were dwell
ing formerly in a dark house, among centipedes
and lizards, spiders and rats ; nor did we know
what evil and despicable things were around us.
The lamp of light, the word of God, has been
brought, and now we behold with dismay and
disgust these abominable things. But stop.
Some are killing each other this very day,
while we are rejoicing; some are destroying
their children, while we are saving ours ; some
are burning themselves in the fire, while we are
bathing in the cool waters of the Gospel.
What shall we do ! We have been told this
day by our Missionary that God works by
sending his word and his servants. To effect
this, property must be given. We have it ; we
can give it. Prayer to God is another means :
let us pray fervently. But our prayer will
condemn us if we cry, ' Send forth thy word
and make it grow,' and do not use the means.
I shall say no more, but let us cleave to Jesus."
Mahamene, one of the teachers who laboured
many years at Rurutu, spoke as follows : —
" There were two captivities amongst us
formerly : the one was a captivity to our gods ;
the other was our captivity to the teuteu arii,
or king's servants. Perhaps there is an indivi
dual present to whom the former will particu
larly apply, for I know the very cave in which
he hid himself several times, when he was
sought after to be offered up as a sacrifice to
the gods.* Has he obtained shelter in the
true Refuge for sinners ! The other captivity
was to the servants of our chiefs. These would
enter our houses, and commit the greatest
depredations. The raatira, or master of the
house, would sit as a poor captive, without
daripg to speak, while they would seize his
rolls of cloth, kill the fattest of his pigs, pluck
* This person was sitting at the lime in front of the
speaker.

the best of his bread-fruit, and take the very
posts of his house for firewood with which to
cook them. Is there not a person present who
buried his new canoe in the sand to hide it
from these desperate men! But now all these
customs are abolished ; we live in peace, with
out fear. But what has abolished them all !
Is it our own goodness ! is it our own strength !
No ! it is the Gospel of Jesus. We do not now
hide our pigs underneath our beds, and use our
rolls of cloth for pillows, to secure them ; our
pigs may now run where they please, and our pro
perty may hang in our house, no one touching it,
Now we have cinet bedsteads ; we have excel
lent sofas to sit on, neat plastered houses to
dwell in, and our property we can call our own."
Another, who is now at the Navigators' Is
lands, said —
" God has made two great lights, the sun and
the moon, and placed them in the heavens ; and
for what has he placed them there ! To thrust
away the darkness. So the Missionary Society :
it is like a great light; its object is to thrust
away the darkness and wickedness of the world,
and to teach all the way of salvation by Jesus
Christ. Let us give our little property to assist
in kindling this great light, that it may arise
and shine upon the people who are now sitting
in darkness and in the shadow of death."
Ahuriro, an intimate friend of the late Po
mare, observed —
" God could work without us. He said,
' Let there be light, and there was light.' But
he is pleased to work by us. Let us then give
what we have willingly to assist the parent
Society in England. God the Father has
work, God the Son has work, God the Spirit
has work in the redemption of man. ShaU God
work, and we sit still! Shall Jesus Christ
pray, and we he silent !"
Another commenced by a few comparisons,
to show that all sought means to accomplish the
object they had in view, as the fisherman his
nets, baits, &c. ; after which he said —
" So will those who love Christ ; they will
devise means to send his Gospel to other lands,
that they also may know the Saviour. I have
been seeking a name by which to call the property
thus subscribed, and I think it may be called
Property to seek lost souls. Are not the souls
of those living in darkness lost souls ! and is
not this property tbe means by which they will
obtain the light of life! It is the thought of
lost souls that animates good people in their
labours. They do not collect property for
themselves; it is for lost souls. We give pro
perty for everything. If we want a canoe, we
give property for it ; if we want a net, we give
property for it ; and are not lost souls worth
giving property to obtain! Think of lost souls,
and work while it is called to-day."
As that of Tamatoa is a genuine and curious
specimen of native eloquence, and illustrates
the ingenuity with which the people apply
their ancient legends to new and useful pur
poses, I requested him to supply me with a copy
of it, and the following is as literal a translation
as I can give. It appears to have been used

TAMATOA' S SPEECH— INTERVIEW WITH CAPTAIN WALDEGRAVE. 61

when addressing their kings at their inaugura
tion, and also, by a little variation of phraseology,
at the deposing of a chief whose reign had been
one of tyranny and bloodshed : —
" An under chief of Tautu spoke concerning
his king, Tautu opiri.* The legend of Natoofaf
says, concerning Tautu opiri, that in his reign
the roots of the bread-fruit tree were adzed
smoothly from off the pathway ; it was even
polished with shark's skin. J The great seat
Reuea was sat upon,§ the sweet-toned bamboo
flute, Taneua,|| was played, and men grew
wrinkled with age, using a staff to support them
as they walked. This king died lamented by
his people, having spread the garment of peace
over them ; for the heads of men were not cut
off with bamboo knives during his reign, but the
heads of pigs, and the food of peace was eaten.
The foreheads of the beautiful women were
made red with the mati berry, and their bright
black hair was anointed with sweet scented
oil.H Behold, the peaceful reign of this king
was long ; and let not the still more blessed
reign of Jesus, tbe best of all kings, be short
among us.
" Tautu opiri begat a son, Te hau roa, or
Long-reign, and then long was the peace en
joyed between the great Tahaa and Raiatea.**
The roots of the bread-fruit tree were adzed,
and the pathway polished with shark's skin, the
great seat Reuea was sat upon, the flute Taneua
was played, men grew wrinkled with age, and
this king died lamented by his people, having
spread the garment of peace, &c. &c. The
peaceful reign of Te hau roa was long, and
shall that of Jesus, the true Long-reign, be
short! "Long-reign begat a son, and called him
Te Petipeti, or the Beautiful, and then delight
ful was the peace enjoyed between great Tahaa
and Raiatea. The roots of the tree were adzed
off smooth, &c. &c. Behold the peaceful reign
of Beautiful was long, and shall that of Jesus,
the true Beautiful, be short among us! No,
never let it be shortened. It exceeds all others
in beauty.
*' Te Petipeti begat a son whom he called
Light-heart, and then light and happy were the
hearts of the people in the peace between great
Tahaa and Raiatea. The roots of the trees were
adzed smoothly off, &c. &c. And this king
died lamented by his people, having spread
the garment of peace over them. And shall
that of Jesus, whose Gospel gives true lightness
of heart, be short among us ! No, let it never
be shortened.
* The name of the chief.
¦t The name of his district.
J The pathways in the island, being exceedingly nar
row, are rendered rugged by the roots of the large trees
which shoot across them ; hence the allusion in the text
became a common figure to express a state of unimpeded
peace, when everything in their political and social in
tercourse went smoothly on.
§ A great seat hewn ont of one tree, on which the
principal chiefs sat at all their great festivals.
|| Taneua, a celebrated flute which they blew with their
noses. 11 Expressions intimating that their amusements were
enjoyed without interruption.
*• Adjacent islands encircled in one reef.

" At length twin-brothers were born, Tautu
and Taumata, Snappish-lips and Scowling-eyes ;
and then jealousy began, and desperate war was
waged. The polished pathway was made
rugged, the seat Reuea was never sat upon, the
conch shell of war was blown instead of the
flute Teneua ; men were slain, instead of grow
ing wrinkled with age ; the women were not
beautified with the mati berry, and the heads of
men were cut off instead of those of the pig3.
Thus was the peaceful reign of Tautu destroyed ;
thus was the ¦ protracted happiness of Long-
reign shortened, and the lovely reign of Beauti
ful deformed. Thus were the light hearts of
the people made sad ; for misery and bloodshed
reigned, and the invisible world was peopled
with men from our earth. Let us all grasp
firmly the good we now enjoy, lest the peaceful
reign of Jesus should end, and the days of
darkness and bloodshed return."
It appears that some of the officers of the
Seringapatam were rather sceptical as to the
capability of the native speakers to compose the
addresses which they delivered; and even
asserted that they were mere parrots, repeating
only what I had taught them, and moreover,
that they believed in Christianity solely because
the Missionaries had assured them of its truth.
Others, however, maintained that they were
not deficient either in good sense or scriptural
knowledge. In order to decide the question,
early the next morning Captain Waldegrave,
the Rev. Mr. Watson the chaplain, and other
gentlemen called at my house. After a little
consideration, I suggested that the more satis
factory method of forming a correct opinion
would be for them to favour us with their com
pany to tea, when I would introduce twelve or
fifteen of our people, who, I was assured,
would feel happy in replying to any questions
that might be proposed to them. The propo
sition met with their approval, and, after tea,
fifteen natives came into the room and took
their seats.
I then informed them that the gentlemen
present were desirous of ascertaining the extent
of their knowledge upon some important
topics, and for this purpose would propose to
them a few questions. Captain Waldegrave
then asked, " Do you believe that the Bible is
the word of God, and that Christianity is of
Divine origin!" The natives were rather
startled at this question, having never enter
tained a doubt upon that point. — At length
one replied, " Most certainly we do. We look
at the power with which it has been attended
in effecting the entire overthrow of idolatry
amongst us, and which, we believe, no human
means could have induced us to abandon."
The same question being proposed to a second,
he replied, " I beheve the Scriptures to be of
Divine origin, on account of the system of sal
vation they reveal. We had a religion before,
transmitted to us by our ancestors, whom we
considered the wisest of men; but how dark
and black a system that was, compared with
the bright scheme of salvation presented in the
Bible ! Here we learn that we are sinners ;

62

THE INTERVIEW.

that God gave his own Son Jesus Christ to die
for us ; and that, through believing, the salva
tion he procured becomes ours. Now, what
but the wisdom of God could have devised such
a system as this !" The question being re
peated to an old priest, then a devoted Chris
tian, instead of replying at once, he held up
his hands, and rapidly moved the joints of
his wrist and fingers ; he then opened and shut
his mouth, and closed these singular actions by
raising his leg, and moving it in various direc
tions. Having done this, he said, " See, I
have hinges all over me : if the thought grows
in my heart that I wish to handle anything, the
binges in my hands enable me to do so : if I
want to utter any thing, the hinges to my jaws
enable me to say it ; and if I desire to go any
where, here are hinges to my legs to enable me
to walk. Now," continued he, "I perceive
great wisdom in the adaptation of my body to
the various wants of my mind ; and when I
look into the Bible, and see there proofs of
wisdom which correspond exactly with those
which appear in my frame, I conclude that the
Maker of my body is the Author of that book."
Another replied to the question by saying, "I
believe the Bible to have come from God, be
cause it contains prophecies which have been
exactly fulfilled."
Captain W. then inquired " who the prophets
were !" Native. " Persons inspired of God to
foretell events ages before they occurred."
Captain. " Can you name any of them !"
Native. " Yes — Samuel, David, Isaiah, Daniel,
Jonah, and many others."
Captain. " You have mentioned Isaiah : can
you tell me any of his prophecies!"
Native. " O, yes ; he was the prophet who
wrote so much about our Lord and Saviour, and
who said that he should be numbered with the
transgressors ; and we know that Christ was
crucified between two thieves. There was the
prophecy and its fulfilment."
A variety of questions were then put respect
ing Jonah and other prophets ; after which one
of the natives observed, that many of the types
were prophecies of Christ. These then became
the topic of conversation ; in the course of
which allusion was made to the brazen serpent ;
and Captain W., after examining them upon the
historical circumstances connected with that type,
inquired to whom it applied!
Native. " To Christ ; for he himself said,
' As Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilder
ness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted
up.' "
Reference was then made to the paschal
lamb ; and questions upon the history of that
type having been replied to, the Captain asked
wherein that applied to Jesus Christ! to which
a native answered, " A bone of the paschal lamb
might not be broken ; and in the nineteenth
chapter of the Gospel of John we read, that the
soldiers came and brake the legs of those who
were crucified with Jesus ; but when they came
to him, and saw that he was already dead, they
brake not his legs ; for the Scripture saith, 'A
bone of him shall not be broken.' "

After this, questions were proposed upon the
leading doctrines of Christianity, and, when we
arrived at the doctrine of the resurrection, they
were asked, "With what body shall we be
raised 1" In reply to this, those beautiful verses of
the 15th chapter ofthe 1st Epistle to the Corin
thians were immediately quoted : " It is sown in
corruption ; it is raised inincorruption," &c. The
Captain rejoined that what they had said was
very good; but still he wished them to be a
little more explicit, and to give him some idea
of the body with which we should arise. This
occasioned considerable consultation among
them : but at length one exclaimed, " I have it,
St. John, in his 1st Epistle, the 3rd chapter,
says, that ' when he shall appear, we shall be
like him.' Our bodies will then be like Christ's."
The Captain still pressed the question ; when,
after another consultation, a native replied,
" Being like Christ cannot mean being like his
body when it hung upon the cross, but it must
mean being like to his glorious body when he
was transfigured upon the mount." At the
conclusion of these interrogations, a copy of the
New Testament was passed round, and opened
indiscriminately; when each was desired to
read a verse, and reply to questions on its
import and connexion.
This interview lasted upwards of three hours ;
and at the conclusion the gentlemen expressed
themselves highly gratified ; and Captain W.,
assured the natives that, if he returned in safety
to England, he should not fail to inform his
countrymen of what he had seen and heard ;
and I am happy to add that he has done so, on
various occasions, in the most favourable manner.
I think I may also affirm, that the questions
were proposed, not with the design to perplex,
but to obtain accurate information as to the
extent of knowledge which our converts pos
sessed ; and I deem it right also to state, that I
am not conscious of having assisted them, on
that occasion, by a single hint, hut that I acted
solely as interpreter.
And here I may observe, that, had Captain
Beechy of the Blossom condescended to adopt
the same means of obtaining correct information,
he would not have penned the following para
graph :—
" Ignorance of the language prevented my
obtaining any correct information as to the
progress that had been made generally towards
a knowledge of the Scriptures by those who
were converted ; but my impression was, and I
find by the journals of my officers it was theirs
also, that it was very .limited, and that few
understood the simplest parts of it. Many cir
cumstances induced me to believe that they con
sidered their religious books in the same light
as they did their household gods," &c.
The Honourable Captain Waldegrave, Captain
Laws, and other gentlemen, were equally igno
rant of the language, but they employed the
method which common sense dictated to supply
that deficiency; and the result was, as might
have been expected, that they obtained more
correct information.
The visit of Captain Lord Byron to the Sand-

SAIL FOR THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.

63

wich Islands appears to have been equally
beneficial with that of Captain Waldegrave to
the Society group. In reference to the former,
the American Missionaries, when writing to the
Secretary of the London Missionary Society,
observe : —
" The visit of Lord Byron has, we believe,
been exceedingly pleasing to the people ; and
we are very happy to say that he has performed
a truly honourable part in his interview with
the chiefs, and also with the mission.
" The affability, the kindness, and amiable
deportment he has uniformly manifested, has
been much admired, and has not only gained
him many personal friends, but done great credit
to his country. You will be gratified to know
that, at the national council, held here but re
cently, he very distinctly approved of the atten
tion of the natives to the instructions of the
Missionaries, and assured the chiefs that they
ought to feel grateful for the important benefits
they had received through the instrumentality
of their Christian teachers."

CHAPTER XV.

Sail for the Navigators' Islands — Touch at the Hervey
Group — Mangaia — Native Service — War between the
Christians and Heathens — Usages of the Mangaians in
War— The Author's Advice solicited upon various topics
— Female Degradation — New Chapel opened — Last
Visit to Mangaia — Remarkable Providence — War pre
vented.
In about a week or ten days after the Seringa-
patam sailed, the Messenger of Peace was ready
for sea ; and, after getting the teachers on board,
we took an affectionate leave of our dear wives
and children, spread our sails, glided through
the reef, and with excited feelings, launched
upon the deep. When we contemplated the
length of the voyage, the probable dangers to
which we should be exposed, the protracted
period of separation from our dear families, and
the possibility that we might fall victims to the
ferocity of the heathen, we naturally experienced
some anxiety. The plan, however, had been
sketched, the subject had been considered in
all its bearings, and had received the unqualified
approbation of our judgment ; our feelings there
fore were made to yield, and we pursued our
adventurous way, encouraged by the remem
brance of the gracious protection which had
hitherto been afforded us, and the abundant
success that had crowned our former efforts.
The present undertaking, we concluded, might
be attended with results equally beneficial, and
still more extensive ; which we well knew
would amply compensate for all our labour and
fears. There were with us seven teachers, and
we intended to augment the number from the
Hervey Islands, which we proposed to visit on
our way. We cleared the harbour on Monday,
the 24th of May, 1830. After touching at
Porapora, and spending a day with Mr. and
Mrs. Piatt and family, we shaped our course for
the Hervey group ; and, in four or five days,
we reached in safety the Island of

MANGAIA.
Arriving off the settlement, about ten o'clock
on Sabbath evening, we apprised our friends of
the circumstance, by firing a small cannon ; on
hearing which they kindled fires in answer to
our signal, and as beacons to us during the
night. Early the next morning we hastened
on shore ; and as we approached we could not
but admire the pleasant situation selected for
the settlement, it being a sloping hill on the
western side of the island, which gradually rose
from the shore. The large chapel in the centre
formed a conspicuous and interesting object,
whilst the neat white cottages of the native
Christians, stretching along to the right and
left, and partially hid by the banana-groves,
among which they stood, gave variety and ani
mation to the scene. The teachers' dwellings,
we were delighted to find, were neat and
respectable, the yard was paved with white
pebbles, and the whole was enclosed within a
good fence. An excellent road had been formed
through the settlement, on each side of which
stood the native cottages. On being conducted
to the house of the principal chief, we found a
baked pig, smoking hot, upon a table-cloth of
leaves, with a liberal supply of yams, taro, and
other vegetables, awaiting our arrival. Having
made a hearty meal, the chief presented us with a
small quantity of native cloth, as an expression
of the pleasure he felt in receiving under his
roof persons from a far country, who had brought
him the word of salvation.
We had no sooner returned to the houses of
the teachers, than the whole of the professors
of Christianity were introduced to us; every
one bearing a small present of native cloth or
food, and giving us a welcome by a hearty shake
of the hand.
We were delighted with the appearance they
presented ; the females being dressed in beauti
fully white cloth, which Faaruea, the teacher's
wife from Raiatea, had taught them to make,
and in bonnets of their own manufacture ; whilst
the men wore their native tiputas, with the
addition of a straw hat. In the afternoon we
held a public service, when about eight hundred
were present, many of whom were still heathen ;
and these presented a striking contrast to the
Christian part of the community, having long
beards and long hair, and being dressed with all
the fantastic wildness of heathen taste. They
behaved, however, with decorum, while I
preached to them from my favourite text, " This
is a faithful saying, and worthy of all accepta
tion," &c. As their language bears a close
affinity to the Rarotongan, I addressed them in
that dialect. The congregation sang most lustily,
and, although we could not admire theharmony of
their music, the energy with which they exerted
their lungs was gratifying, for they endeavoured
to compensate for the absence of harmonic
sounds, by the hearty manner in which they
raised their sonorous and powerful voices.
Before daybreak the following morning, we
were awoke by the chit-chat of a number of
persons outside the house, who, it appears, had

64

WAR BETWEEN CHRISTIANS AND HEATHENS.

brought their mats, and slept on them under
our bed-room windows, in order to be near us.
Faaruea and his wife, teachers whom I had
originally intended for the Navigator group,
had, at the earnest solicitation of the inhabi
tants, been left by Mr. Piatt at this island, until
we should call for them. To these the chiefs
and people had, by this time, formed so strong
an attachment, especially the women to the wife
of Faaruea, that the heathen universally united
with the Christians in entreating that I would
allow them to remain. Unable to resist their
importunity, and convinced that it was wiser to
take good care of stations already formed, than
to neglect them in order to extend our labours,
I consented to their request, although I was
grieved at losing so valuable a labourer from the
Navigators' Island mission.
It will be recollected that, on our first visit,
the teachers' wives met with such rude treat
ment, that we were obliged to abandon our
intention of leaving them, and also that, on our
return home, we took the first opportunity of
sending two single men to commence the work
of instruction among this wild and violent
people. I have already given an account of
the Providence that had prepared the way
before them, and the kind reception with which
they consequently met. Tiere, one of these,
died about two years and a half after his arrival ;
to him the people were strongly attached, and
would, in all probability, have soon embraced
the truth, had his life been prolonged ; his death,
therefore, was a great loss to the mission. The
good work, however, had proceeded gradually
since that period, so that, on our arrival, we
found five hundred persons enjoying the bless
ings of Christian instruction.
We were grieved to hear from the teachers
that they had suffered much annoyance from
the heathen, who frequently came on the Sab
bath and performed their dances and games, in
contempt of the Christians, near the place where
they were accustomed to worship. They were
also kept in a continual state of distressing
anxiety by the repeated threats of the heathen
to burn their houses, murder their teacher, and
"make use of his skull as a drinking-cup."*
This led to a disastrous conflict, which termi
nated in favour of the Christians ; they losing
three, and the idolaters eighteen or twenty of
their number. It appears to have been a very
hard-contested battle ; for, contrary to the
general usage in the islands, the people of
Mangaia do not practise bush-fighting, but meet
in an open plain, from which every shelter is
removed. They then arrange themselves in
rows four deep. The first is armed with long
spears ; the second with clubs, to defend the
spearmen ; the third is composed of young men
with slings, the stones for which are all made
round and smooth ; and the fourth row consists
of women. These not only carry baskets of stones
and weapons with which to supply the warriors,
but they also attack the enemy while engaged
with their husbands ; and it appears, by various
accounts which I received, that they are exceed -
* A native curse.

ingly fierce. The young chief of a neighbouring
island, who was present at this conflict, informed
me that, while in the heat of the battle, he was
greatly annoyed by the fury with which the wife
of his antagonist assailed him. He exclaimed,
" Woman, desist ! I am not come to fight with
women !" She vociferated in a frantic manner,
"If you kill my husband, what must I do!"
and immediately threw a stone; which struck
him on the head, and felled him to the ground ;
and, had it not been for the prompt assistance
of his own people, he would have lost his life
by the hands of her husband.
I was distressed at hearing that, contrary to
what had taken place in other islands, some of
the Christian party had acted with great cruelty
towards their enemies, by hewing them in
pieces while they were begging for mercy. I
account for this barbarity from the existence of
the ono, or systematic revenge, which prevailed
so universally through the whole of the islands
of the Pacific Ocean; for most probably one of
their relatives had been killed or injured by the
person then in their power, or by some of his
family; and it was a legacy bequeathed from father
to son to avenge that injury, even if an oppor
tunity did not oec ur until the third or fourth gene
ration. This circumstance also shows that, al
though Christianity is embraced, the savage
disposition cannot, in all cases, be entirely eradi
cated in a few months. Instead, therefore, of ex
pressing astonishment at this solitary instance of
brutality, we should rather wonder that so little
has been shown in the islands generally since the
introduction of Christianity. Had the Christians
of Mangaia imitated the conduct of the chiefs and
people of Tahiti and the Society Islands, in the
exercise of mercy and kindness, in all probability
the heathen party would not have resisted, for
so many years, every effort to bring them under
the influence of the Gospel.
In a meeting held with the Christians, our
advice was solicited upon several topics ; among
which was " rat -eating." As Mangaia was not
so abundantly supplied with fish as at some
other islands, and as there were no animals
except rats until I visited it, these formed a
common article of food ; and the natives said
they were exceedingly "sweet and good:"
indeed, a common expression with them when
speaking of anything delicious was, " It is as
sweet as a rat." They find no difficulty in
catching them in great numbers, which they do
in many ways, but principally by digging a hole,
and strewing in it a quantity of candle-nut,
aleurites, and when a sufficient number of rats
were in the hole they drew a net over it and
secured them all. Having obtained as many
as they wish, they singe the hair off on hot stones,
wrap them up in leaves, and bake them. Saturday
was their principal rat-catching day, as they
were desirous of having " animal food " to cat
with their cold vegetables on the Sabbath.
They now wished to know our opinion as to
whether it was sinful to eat them. I informed
them that we were in the habit of looking upon
rats as exceedingly disgusting ; but, not perceiv
ing anything morally evil in the practice, I could

FEMALE OCCUPATION— VISIT TO THE HEATHEN.

05

do no more than recommend them to take great
care ofthe pigs and goats I had brought, by which
means they would speedily obtain an abundant
supply of " animal food," far superior to that
which they esteemed so " sweet and good."
Another subject presented for our considera
tion was the employment of the females. The
taro, arum esmlentum, which forms a staple
article of food at most of the islands, is generally
cultivated in swampy places ; and the work of
planting and keeping the taro-beds in order is
assigned to girls under sixteen years of age, and
to women who have passed the prime of life.
Ladies are seldom seen in these plantations
until their beauty begins to fade, when they are
required to return to their "occupation," and
wade for hours in mud from twoto three feet
deep. The wife of the native teacher, intent
upon the elevation of her sex, requested, through
the medium of her husband, my opinion of this
practice. Through her representations I was
induced to plead for their emancipation with all
the eloquence I could command, and the result
was an agreement that in future they should not
be compelled to do this " dirty work." This
decision gave them much joy ; and, in commemo
ration of the event, they prepared on the follow
ing day a sumptuous feast, at which four or five
hundred sat down, and to which I was invited.
Not a rat was seen on the table ; * but pigs roasted
whole, fish of various kinds, anda profusion of
vegetables, with aqua pura from the spring, and
cocoa-nut water, constituted the repast.
After having spent several days in this island,
preaching to the people, visiting the heathen
chiefs, attending the schools, and giving advice
and instructions to the teachers, we prepared
for our departure, thankful for what had been
effected, and encouraged to believe that a copious
shower of blessings would ultimately descend
upon the inhabitants of this beautiful island.
When I next visited Mangaia, in 1831, I was
accompanied by my excellent brother Mr. Buza
cott, and Makea, the king of Rarotonga. We
found that a large new place of worship had been
erected, and that the people were anxiously
waiting for us to open it. It was a fine building,
of an oval shape, about one hundred and twenty
feet in length . The large posts which supported
the roof, eight in number, the ridge pole, and
the rafters, were most beautifully carved, and
tastefully coloured with various native prepara
tions. It is impossible, however, so to describe
them as to enable the reader to form a correct
idea of their appearance, or of the taste and in
genuity displayed in their execution. These
posts are twenty-five feet high, and from twelve
to eighteen inches square ; and when we consi
der the tools with which the work was done,
which were principally old nails, pieces of iron
hoop, and a few chisels, the hardness ofthe wood,
and the depth of the carving, we were amazed
both at the patience and skill of the native arti
ficers. The effect, on entering the place, was
exceedingly striking. On the following day, a
congregation assembled to the number of fifteen
* That is, not a baked one ; there were plenty of live
ones running about in all directions.
No. 5.

or sixteen hundred persons. Mr. Buzacott read
a portion of Scripture, and engaged in prayer ;
after which I addressed them from Haggai ii. 7,
" I will fill this house with my glory, saith the
Lord of hosts." Many of the heathen attended,
and those who were not able to gain admittance
crowded round the doors and windows. These
were very decorous in their behaviour ; and
when addressed upon the value of salvation, and
earnestly invited to come and worship the God
whose house they had assisted in erecting, they
appeared to listen with great attention.
Finding that vast numbers were still obstinate
in their resolution to remain in heathen dark
ness, we determined to visit them at their own
respective districts, and speak to them upon the
momentous concerns of their souls and eternity.
After a pleasant walk over a mountain, and
across a beautiful valley, around which the huts
of the natives were erected, we arrived at the
chiefs house. He received us with great respect,
and immediately despatched a messenger to in
vite, or rather to desire, the people to assemble.
They instantly obeyed the summons ; and in a
short time two or three hundred were convened,
who were dressed most fantastically. The females
wore wreaths of entwined leaves and ornamen
tal flowers of varied hue, with necklaces of ber
ries, while their persons were profusely anointed
with scented oil. The men also had expended
their ingenuity in decorating theirpersons. To
this company the truths of the Gospel, together
with the present and future advantages of cm-
bracing it, were explained with the greatest pos
sible simplicity, and they were urged to an im
mediate acceptance of proffered mercy : especially
the chief, who was an old man, and who was
informed that death would very soon remove
him out of this world to another, in which his
eternal doom would be unalterably fixed. They
behaved with decorum, listened with attention,
and promised to remember what had been said,
but declined an immediate acceptance of our
invitation. The chief expressed his obligation
for the honour conferred upon him by our visit,
and again assured us that he would seriously
consider what he had heard ; and, although we
feared that little permanent impression had been
made, we proceeded to the next district, with
the satisfaction of knowing that bread-corn bad
been cast upon the waters, which would be
found after many days.
Passing over another high hill, and across
another fertile valley, we arrived at the house of
the principal chief, when we were informed that
he, with the greater number of his people, bad
gone to the Christian settlement to see us. We
therefore hastened home ; and, on our arrival,
were delighted to find the old man and his party
in company with Makea and the Rarotongan
Christians, who were exhorting them to become
worshippers of the true God, and to seek that
salvation which is only to be obtained by be
lieving on the Lord Jesus Christ. Being in
formed that Mr. B. and myself had been to his
district, for the purpose of conversing with him
upon the same important subjects he was evi
dently much pleased ; and, like Agrippa of old,

63 ZEAL OF THE RAROTONGAN CHRISTIANS— PREPARATIONS FOR WAR.

"was almost persuaded to become a Christian."
Finding him and his people in such good hands,
we thought it. wise, after saying a few words, to
retire, and leave them to the merciful violence
with which the Christians of Rarotonga would
persuade them to embrace the truth ; and I be
lieve they slept but little during the night ; for
when, at twelve o'clock, we stretched ourselves
on our mats to rest our weary limbs, neither the
zeal of our companions nor the interest of the
listening heathen appeared in any measure to
have abated.
After spending several interesting and labo
rious days at Mangaia, in visiting the heathen
settlements, preaching to the people, and exa
mining the school-children, we departed, hoping
and praying for the blessing of Him, " who alone
giveth the increase."
Without noticing my several subsequent visits
to this island, which were similar in their cha
racter and results to those I have already de
scribed, I shall proceed to speak of my last, which
was made under peculiar circumstances, and at
tended with very important consequences. In
the latter end of 1833 I left Rarotonga for Atiu,
Aitutaki, and other islands. Pa and Tinomana,
chiefs of Rarotonga, were with me on that occa
sion, beside many other natives whom I was
conveying to their respective homes. The wind
being contrary for several days we could make
no progress ; and, having so many people on
board, our provisions failed ; I was therefore
compelled to run for the nearest island, which
was Mangaia, then distant about seventy or
eighty miles. We reached it on the following
day ; but, to our astonishment, no canoes came
off to bid us welcome ; and I concluded that the
native Missionaries had lost their reckoning,
and were keeping the Monday for the Sabbath.
At length, however, a canoe approached us,
having in it but a solitary individual. On his
reaching the ship, 1 inquired what had become
of the people, and why they had not put off as
usual ; when he informed me that it was a day
of fasting and prayer ; for the heathens were
about to make an attack upon them on the fol
lowing morning. Shortly after this the teachers
came on board, from whom I obtained correct
information of the state of the island ; and found
that, of late, the Christians had been exceed
ingly zealous for the conversion of their heathen
brethren ; and had, with this intent, tried many
plans, which were rejected with taunts and in
sults. The Christians, bent upon the accom
plishment of their object, had determined to
make a tour of the island, and to endeavour
to bring in at least one convert' each. The
heathen party, hearing of this, and suspecting
that the Christians intended to come and take
them by force, resolved to anticipate their visit
by a formidable attack upon their settlement.
For some time many exasperating reports were
carried from the one to the other, by which
both parties were inflamed, and the island kept
in a state of continual ferment. When I heard
this, and found that the attack was to be made
on the following day, I perceived who had sent
the foul wind, 'and for what purpose I was con

ducted to Mangaia ; and, after humbling my
self before God, for having "in my haste" been
angry with the wind, I determined immediately
to visit every heathen settlement in the island.
Taking with me the three chiefs from Rarotonga,
we stepped into the canoe, dashed over the reef
upon the crest of a curling billow, and landed
at an uninhabited part of the island. Our walk
was particularly fatiguing, being several miles
along a very rugged coral beach, with the
piercing rays of the mid-day sun beating upon
us from above, and their glare reflected from
the sea on the one side, and from the rocks on
the other. We then ascended the cliff, which
was about a hundred and fifty or two hundred
feet in height, walked over a flat surface of
rocks, broken fragments of coral, and other ma
rine substances, and again descended into a
most beautiful valley, the sides of which were
far more precipitous and romantic than those
toward the sea. Having crossed this valley,
ascended another hill, and entered a second
beautiful vale, we reached the dwelling of the
first heathen chief, who, we found, had received
intimation of our approach, and was prepared
to meet us with ceremony and respect. He
was a fine young man, of fair complexion and
open countenance, and, like most of his brethren,
of very commanding aspect. I introduced the
Rarotonga chiefs to him, and then stated that
the object'of my visit was to advise and request
him not to unite with those who intended to
attack the Christians on the following day. To
this he readily assented. I then spoke to him
about his soul, and the desirableness of placing
himself under Christian instruction ; to all of
which he replied, Reka ke e te taeake; " De
lightful! exceedingly pleased am I, my bro
ther." Each of the Rarotonga chiefs then addressed
him. One gave an account of the introduction
of Christianity into their island, and another
pointed out the blessings they were now en
joying. Tinomana stated, that he was formerly
a conquered chief, and, with his oppressed peo
ple, lived in the mountains, but that he now
possessed a large settlement of beautiful white
houses by the sea-side, with a spacious chapel
in the centre, and a Missionary of Jesus Christ
to teach him. " My people," said he, " can
now go to the sea to catch fish, or to tbe
mountains to procure food, without the slightest
fear ; and we are enjoying a state of peace and
happiness, of which, formerly, we never heard."
One of them concluded his beautiful address, by
stepping forward, and seizing the heathen chief
by the hand, and exclaiming, " Rise, brother,
tear off the garb of Satan, and become a man of
God !" I think, if ever I felt the thrilling influ
ence of what is termed the sublime, it was at that
moment. The unaffected dignity of the action,
the nobleness of the sentiment, together with
the holy energy and persuasiveness of his man
ner, produced feelings which I cannot describe.
The effect, however, on the mind of the heathen
chief was not so powerful as might have been
wished ; for he stated to us, in reply that, while
he was delighted with the honour conferred

WAR PREVENTED— INTERESTING CONVERSATION.

67

upon him, he was so connected with his brother
chiefs, that he was scarcely at liberty to act
without them ; and requesting' us to see them
all before we pressed him for a reply to our pro
position, he promised " to think well over again"
what he had heard.
Wishing to see the principal chief that night,
we passed by the other inferior ones, and, cross
ing three other hills and valleys, we at length
arrived, fatigued and panting, at the residence
of Maunganui. He also had received infor
mation of our approach ; and, adorned with his
heathen trappings, came to the back part of the
house ; and, having beckoned me away from my
party he took me by the hand, and said,
"Friend, have you any axesl" I replied in
the affirmative. He then wished to know if
I had brought any for him ; and, on learning
that I had not, he inquired whether the Chris
tians had prevented me. I informed him that
my business related to matters of far greater im
portance than axes, and that we must take our
seats, and commence at once. Squatting down
upon the mats spread for us upon a broad pave
ment of stones in front of the house, and re
galed with the breezes which came loaded with
the fragrance of the blossoms of the chestnut
and other trees, we refreshed ourselves with a
delicious draught of cocoa-nut water out of the
bottle in which it grew, and proceeded to the
consideration of the business upon which I had
come. Addressing the chief, I expressed my
regret that he, with so many of his brethren,
still refused the invaluable blessings of Chris
tianity ; but was yet more grieved to find that, on
the following day, they were about to make
war upon the Christians, which it was the im
mediate object of my visit to prevent. He re
plied, that he was truly glad that I had come,
and that my arrival was most opportune. He
had been informed, that the opposite party in
tended to take him by force and make him a
Christian; and, not being inclined to yield,
he had determined to fight ; but since I had
come for the purpose of dissuading him from
so doing, he would lay aside all thoughts of
war. We then pressed upon him the import
ant subject of religion, and wished him to ac
company us to the Christian settlement, and
place himself under the instruction of the teach
ers. To this he said he would consent imme
diately if I would make him king ; assuring me
that the supremacy was originally his father's.
I informed him that, if Christianity had found
him in the possession of supremacy, it would
have acknowledged him as supreme ;* but, as
that was not the case, it was not my business
to depose one chief and set up another ; and if
this was the only condition on which he could
be induced to embrace the true Saviour, he
must live and die a heathen, and his soul be
lost for ever. My companions spoke to him
faithfully and affectionately, but he appeared to
remain steadfast to his purpose.
* Supremacy in this island is little more than nominal
power, being invested in the Kai tapere (district eaters,
or heads of districts). The chief authority, I think, was
originally held in connexion with a religious office.

Supper was then prepared for us, which con
sisted of a pig, yams, and taro. We seated
ourselves around our table-cloth of fresh plucked
leaves, and, with a cocoa-nut shell of sea-water,
as a substitute for mustard, salt, and sauce, we
enjoyed our feast exceedingly.
The meal being ended, I gave an address to
the people, read a portion of Scripture, and en
gaged in prayer, during which the heathen
were exceedingly attentive. We sat up till
midnight, conversing upon important topics,
and persuading the deluded people to receive
the truth. The chief's wife, in particular,
awakened our sympathy by stating that she
had long wished to become a Christian, because
when she compared herself with the Christian
females, she was much ashamed, for they had
bonnets, and beautiful white garments, while
she was dressed in " Satan's clothes :" they
could sing and read, while she was in ignorance.
She also expressed pity for her children, who
were uninstructed in many interesting things
which the Christian children knew ; and she
wished much, if her husband would not allow
her to become a Christian, that he would send
the children to our settlement. Overcome with
fatigue and sleep from the labours of the day,
we spread our mats on the grass floor ; where I
should have enjoyed a sound and refreshing
night's rest, had not the heathen chief spread
his mat so near to mine, that several times dur
ing the night I was awoke, by finding my head
and face enveloped in his long hair, which was
not only annoying, but calculated, also, to ex
cite some little alarm. We arose at day-break,
and, after a short address and prayer, took our
leave of this chief and his people, with no other
satisfaction than that of having prevented the
anticipated war, and of having spoken faith
fully upon the momentous concerns of salva
tion. At other places which we visited on our
return we were more successful ; for, at the
first settlement we reached, the old chief and
his brother, having been informed of our in
tention to visit them, had not only an oven of
food awaiting our arrival, but had determined
to accompany us, and embrace the Gospel. With
that intention, as soon as I was comfortably
seated, the chieftain came, and putting his head
on my knees, said, " Begin." I inquired what
I was to begin, when he replied, " to cut off
my hair, to be sure."* I informed him that
I was not skilful in that art, neither had I my
scissors with me ; but that we should find all
that was needed at the settlement. Accom
panied by these two veterans in Satan's service,
we proceeded to the next district, where we
were treated with respect and heard with atten
tion, although not cheered by any present suc
cess. At length we reached the residence of
the most powerful and influential district chief.
He received us with great cordiality, had a
large portion of food prepared, and sent for the
neighbouring chiefs and people ; to the former
* The heathen wear very long hair ; and, as the Chris
tians cut theirs short, to "cut their hair had become a
kind of first step in renouncing heathenism ; and, when
speaking of any person having renounced idolatry, the
current expression was, " Such an one has cut his hair."
F 2

68

INTERESTING MEETING— NATURAL CURIOSITY.

of whom, seven in number, I was ceremoniously
introduced. Taking them by tbe hand, I stated
the object of my visit to each. After some con
sultation among themselves, the principal chief
addressed me, and said, they would prefer that
all the heathen should become Christians toge
ther ; and that they would hold a meeting, as
soon as possible, to consider the subject. If,
however, that could not be accomplished, they
would then dissolve the covenant now existing
between the chiefs, that each might follow his
own inclinations. At the same time they en
treated me to remain with them until Saturday,
as they thought that my presence would mate
rially affect their deliberations. " In the mean
time," he said, " we who are now present, do
give permission to any of our people who feel
disposed to accompany you to the settlement,
and place themselves under instruction." On
hearing this, several immediately came forward,
and expressed their intention to take advantage
of the permission thus given. The moment
they had avowed their determination, the hea
then commenced a most dismal howling, and
clung around those who were about to leave
them, kissing them and weeping over them as
though they were about to be slain. This
weeping and wailing had scarcely concluded,
when we were attracted by a burst from another
quarter. It appeared that one of the Rarotonga
Christians, in his address to the heathen party,
grew warm, and expressed himself with great
energy; which excited the fears of the chief
that force was about to be used to compel him
to accompany us. This produced in him great
agitation ; on perceiving which, his two daugh
ters, who were fine young women, about
eighteen or twenty years of age, rushed in, tore
their hair, fell upon his neck, and, with frantic
gesticulations, in the most piteous and heart
rending tones, bewailed the affliction which
was about to come upon their father. I endea
voured to pacify them, by assuring them that
nothing of tbe kind was intended ; that we
were few in number compared with them ; that
we had no weapons but our tongues ; and that
we were in their power rather than they in
ours. Taking our leave, and accompanied by eight
or ten heathen families, we hastened to the
Christian settlement, where we arrived in safety,
after a long and heavy walk : for the rain had
descended during the night, and made the
clayey hills so slippery, that, notwithstanding
the assistance of two stout men, I had several
falls. On our arrival we found the congregation
waiting for us ; when, after scraping off a little
of the dirt, washing my shoes, and turning my
clay-dyed stockings inside out, I hastened to
the chapel, and addressed about sixteen hun
dred people, many of whom were heathen.
As the wind had become fair, and as there
was no anchorage for the ship, I could not con
veniently remain until Saturday. I therefore
sent a present of an axe to each of the chiefs,
with a pair of scissors and some ribbon for their
wives and daughters; and arranged that the
native teachers, instead of ourselves, should

meet them on the following Saturday. The
result of this meeting was the dissolution of the
league, and the removal of the greater part of
the heathen to the Christian settlement. The
stragglers that lingered for awhile behind gra
dually followed ; so that by the last communi
cations I find there are now very few, if any,
idolaters remaining. Thus, after ten years'
patient and persevering effort, God was pleased,
by a contrary wind, to effect this long-wished-
for object, and in this way to secure all the
glory to himself.
The productions of Mangaia are the same as
those of the other islands. The sugar-cane,
however, is particularly fine. Their idolatry
and idolatrous practices vary but little from
those of their neighbours. The only natural
curiosity I discovered was a cavern upon the top
of one of the hills, which was entered by two
comparatively small apertures. .These, although
not many yards apart on the top, were thought
not to communicate. I wished much, on one
occasion, to have descended ; but the natives
objected so strongly, lest any accident should
befall me, that I desisted. I however sounded
one of them, and found it above a hundred feet
deep. One of these holes is called Ruatapu, or
sacred hole ; it being the repository of the dead
bodies of the chiefs : the other is the general re.
ceptacle for all. A native from Aitutaki descen
ded, and he assured me that the holes not only
communicated, but that the cavern appeared
very large ; and that bones innumerable were
strewed in all directions.
The formation of some of the rocks and val
leys struck me as very peculiar ; the sides of the
former being quite perpendicular, as though the
low land had originally been of equal height, but
had, by some undermining process or concussion
of nature, sunk from its elevation, leaving these
rocks as a kind of solid wall, two or three hun
dred feet high, to afford protection to the fer
tile plain below. The valleys generally con
tain from thirty to fifty acres each, and are en
tirely laid out in taro plantations. These are gra
dually raised above each other, from the lower
to the upper part of the valley, from whence
water is conveyed to them in wooden pipes.*
AVhen I saw the excellent order in which they
were kept, I ceased to wonder that the men
wished the females to continue to cultivate
them, for not a weed was to be seen.
But the circumstance most worthy of notice
in this island is the ingenuity of the inhabitants.
This is displayed in the fabrication and pat
terns of their cloth, in the construction of their
spears, bowls, and other articles : but more es
pecially in the exquisite carving of the handles
of their stone axes. This they effect with a
regularity, taste, and beauty, which is surprising,
when it is recollected that the only tools they
formerly possessed were shark's teeth and shells ;
and that even now a nail or a sailor's knife is
the extent of their carving implements. Their
* Not having the means of boring these pipes, they
procure hollow trees, which answer the purpose admi
rably.

NATIVE INGENUITY— ATIU— RELIGIOUS SERVICES THERE.

60

cocoa-nut drinking-cups, also, were most of
them covered with carved or painted figures ;
and, as soon as they learnt the art of writing,
they added to these passages of Scripture. I

think there was not a cup in the king's house,
which was not thus decorated. Perhaps the
accompanying plate of the carved axes may give
the reader a correct idea of their skill.

CHAPTER XVI.
Atiu— Religions Services there — Devotedness of the
Teachers' Wives — The Author's Narrow Escape — Dis-
tre-sing Situation — Fishing Excursion — Superb Cavern
— Mauke and Mitiaro— A Dreadful Massacre— Raro
tonga — An Epidemic rages — Aitutaki-Interesling In
cidents — Native Contributions. ATIU.
Leaving Mangaia, we proceeded to this island,
which, after two days' pleasant sail, we reached
in safety.
We received a most cordial welcome from the
teachers and people, who conducted us to the
settlement, which occupied an elevated and
beautiful situation, it being a fine extensive
plain, upon the top of the mountain which
forms the body of the island. The dwellings
are open to the fresh breeze of the sea, of which
they command a full view on every side ; in
deed, the chapel is the first object descried on
approaching this island.
On our arrival, we were happy to meet the
teachers with the principal chiefs and people of
the neighbouring islands of Mauke and Miliaro.
The object of their visit to Atiu was, first, to

attend the opening of the large new chapel ;
and secondly, to be present at the marriage of
Roma-tane, the king, who was about to be
united to the daughter of the chief of Mauke.
On the following day we opened the chapel,
which would accommodate about 1500 people.
My colleague, Mr. Barff, preached from Ps.
xcvii. 1, " The Lord reigneth ; let the earth
rejoice ; let the multitude of isles be glad there
of." After this, I administered the Lord's
Supper, for the first time, to twenty commu
nicants, among whom was tbe chief, who, it will
be recollected, was so deeply impressed with
the folly of idolatry, by the representations of
Isaiah on that subject. I was truly thankful
to find that he had continued firm in his prin
ciples, and consistent in his conduct. Our time
at this island was most fully occupied, night and
day, for the people would not allow both my
colleague and myself to be asleep at tbe same
time ; but, as soon as one was overcome, they
awoke the other ; and in this way we were em
ployed, alternately, during the nights, teaching
them to sing, and explaining to them passages
of Scripture, which they had noted for that
purpose.

70

TEACHERS' WIVES— NATIVE MANUFACTURES.

The same improvement was apparent in the
females at this island as at Mangaia through fhe
exertions of the wives of the native teachers,
who were exceedingly devoted women. The
character of these two females may be illustrated
by a little incident, which was mentioned to me
in the course of conversation. From the scarcity
of fish at this island, the people generally re
serve what they catch for their families ; and the
teachers were therefore obliged to go on the
Saturday, to procure a supply for the Sabbath.
This the wives lamented, and told me that, at
times, their husbands were out from morning
until night. "You," they said, "resemble
springs, from which knowledge is always bub
bling up ; so that you have nothing but to open
your mouths and out it flows ; but our husbands
find difficulty in preparing for the services of
the Sabbath." To obviate this, they begged I
would write out some heads of discourses for
them ; at the same time informing me, that, for
months past, while their husbands were fishing,
they took their slates, and, having recalled a
text, from which they had heard some of the
Missionaries preach, they endeavoured to re
trace the ideas then advanced, and to collect
parallel passages of Scripture, to illustrate them.
By these means they had generally a slate full of
something for their husbands to work from on
their return.
In our examination of the school children,
we were pained to find that only a few of them
could read. All, however, as well as the adults,
had committed to memory, most correctly, a long
and instructive catechism, written by Mr. Ors-
mond, which contained a comprehensive system
of divinity, expressed in striking and beautiful I
language. '

On my next visit to this island my life and
labours had nearly terminated. On reaching
the reefs we perceived that the sea was not
breaking with its usual violence, and I therefore
determined to land in the boat. This was
effected without much difficulty ; but on return
ing, before we could get a sufficient distance
from the shore, another billow rolled in and
overwhelmed us, and the boat with her crew
was dashed upon the reef. Unfortunately, I
fell toward the sea, and was conveyed by the
recoil of the wave to a considerable distance
from the shore, where I was twirled about in a
whirlpool, and sank to a great depth. Being
so long under water, I began to fear that I
should rise no more. At length, however, I
arose to the surface ; and, finding there was
time for me to reach the reef before the next
wave burst upon it, I swam in that direction.
On perceiving my situation, two natives sprang
into the sea, and, as a considerable time elapsed
before the next billow arrived, I succeeded, by
their assistance, in escaping its fury. The
people were standing upon the reef, weeping
bitterly, under the apprehension that I was lost;
and, on reaching the shore, they gathered around
me, and demonstrated their great joy at my
preservation, by touching my clothes or kissing
my hands. Thus, for the sixth time, was I
rescued from a watery grave.
The reefs at the water's edge are overhanging
and shelving, forming hollows and caverns under
neath ; and the danger most to he dreaded, is
that of being forced, by the violence of the
waves, into these submarine chasms. From
such a situation escape is impossible.
Nothing particularly worthy of special notice
occurred in any of my subsequent vists to Atiu,

except in the last, at the latter end of 1833.
On this occasion I was accompanied by Mr.
Armitage, who was sent out by the London
Missionary Society some years before, to teach
tbe people the art of making cloth from the
cotton which grows there with great luxuriance.*
* While the anxiety of the directors of the Society to

Mr. A., after making all the efforts which in-
promote the industry of the native converts admits of the
highest commendation, I do not think that it is generally
desirable to attempt the introduction of complex manu
factures among an infant people. A natiou in such a
state should rather be encouraged to direct its energies to
the production ofthe raw material, and to exchange that
with the mother countries for manufactured articles.

FEARS FOR OUR VESSEL— RETURN OF OUR SHIP— FLYING FISH. 71

genuity could devise, or perseverance realize, for
the accomplishment of his object in the Tahitian
Islands, and not succeeding, accepted an invita
tion from the king Makea, seconded by Messrs.
Pitman and Buzacott, to visit Rarotonga : and,
as the people of that island did not possess
articles of barter so abundantly as the Tahitians,
it was thought by us all that there was a rea
sonable prospect of success. Mr. Armitage,
therefore, generously consented to leave his wife
and family of ten children, and go for twelve
months to Rarotonga. Mr. S. Wilson also
accompanied us. He is a son of our excellent
brother Missionary, and, I am truly happy to
say, is devoting himself to the work of preaching
salvation to the heathen. His good father,
thinking it might be of advantage to him in the
future prosecution of his labours, expressed a
wish that he should accompany me in the
voyage. On the day after our arrival at Atiu a heavy
gale of wind arose, and, there beingno anchorage,
our little vesssel was driven out of sight of land ;
and, as there was no one on board who under
stood navigation, I never expected to see her
again. Day after day we waited and watched,
with the utmost anxiety, but nothing was
descried in the surrounding horizon. Saturday
arrived, and, not having taken a change of
clothes with us, ingenuity was racked how to
get those washed which we wore. The teachers'
daughters, however, accomplished this exceed
ingly well, by using the root of a shrub called
tutu, which produces a strong lather, equal to
that of soap, and is a most admirable substitute
for that valuable article.
We set apart a portion of every morning, and,
retired to the chapel for social prayer, to seek
direction from above in our distressing circum
stances ; and I can truly say that we found these
services seasons of refreshing from the presence
of our God. After having given up all hope of
again seeing our vessel, we held a consultation
as to whether we had better build a boat with
what materials we could obtain on the island,
and sail to Rarotonga ; or remain where we
were. After much deliberation and prayer, we
concluded that, as a peculiar providence had
placed us there, it appeared to be the path of
duty to wait patiently till God, in the exercise of
the same providence, should afford us the means
of removal ; and determined to employ our
selves as fully as possible for the benefit of the
people, as this would materially assist in making
us contented and happy in our painful situation.
For this purpose Mr. Armitage selected wood
with which to make spinning-wheels, while I
made arrangements for the erection of a new
school-house ; and, just as we had commenced, a
little boy reported that, in the dusk of the
evening, he had seen a speck upon the horizon,
and we waited with no small anxiety for the
morning's dawn. Long before daylight I was
upon the brow of the hill ; and when the sun
arose, I perceived, with feelings of inexpressible
delight, the object of our solicitude. Our joy,
however, was awakened principally by the
consideration that our families would now be

spared the distressing anxiety which otherwise
they must have endured for months on our
account. On going on board the vessel, all the account
I could get from the crew was, that the gale
became so furious during the night, that it had
blown them away, and in the morning they
found themselves out of sight of land ; and that,
after being tossed about for many days, a strong
wind in the opposite direction had driven them
back again. The only loss that had been sus
tained was the death of one of the calves I was
conveying to our brethren at Rarotonga. The
inhabitants of the island wept when they saw
the vessel, but, unmoved by their tears, we re
turned thanks to God for delivering us out of
our distresses, hoisted our sails, t6ok leave of
the kind but disappointed people, and pursued
our voyage.
During bur involuntary residence at Atiu, we
determined, one night, to accompany the natives
on a fishing excursion. Flying fish were the
objects of our pursuit, and these are caught only
after dark. We arrived at the sea-side about
eight o'clock. The teachers and their families,
and indeed most of the inhabitants of the settle
ment, were of the party, and brought their sleep
ing-mats with an intention of lodging upon the
sea-shore, while we spent the night in chasing
the poor fish. With these expeditions many
idolatrous ceremonies were formerly connected.
On the present occasion we all knelt down upon
the coral bank, and one of the natives, accord
ing to their usual practice, offered up a suitable
prayer. The canoes were then dragged from the
rocks, thirty feet above the level of the water,
down a broad sloping-ladder, and launched over
the surf into the sea. Double canoes are
always used on these occasions, three of which
formed our expedition. Mr. Armitage was
seated on one, Mr. Wilson on another, and my
self on the third. When the rowers were ready,
a flambeau was lighted. The principal man
then took his station on tbe fore-part of the
canoe. He was provided with a net, attached
to a light pole, twelve or fifteen feet long, and
kept open by a ring of elastic wood, in the shape
of an ace of spades. Every preparation being
made, the rowers commenced pulling with all
their strength, and the headsman stamped upon
the box of the canoe, which, being hollow, pro
duced a considerable sound. This, andthesplash-
ing of the oars, frightened the fish, which darted
from the back of the reef, where they were
quietly feeding, towards the ocean. The torches
answered two purposes ; for, while they en
abled the headsman to discover his prey, they
also dazzled the eyes of the fish ; and, as they
dashed past his canoe, on the surface of the
water, he thrust forward his net, and turned
it over upon them. The quickness of sight
shown by the natives, and the rapidity and
dexterity of their motions, were truly astonish
ing. At times they catch vast quantities in
this way. The fish, however, on the night
we accompanied them, did not happen to be
numerous ; and at the end of two hours we re
turned, having taken but twenty. The other

72 METHOD OF CATCHING THE FLYING FISH— SUBTERRANEOUS WONDERS.

canoes were even less successful. On landing,
every fish was brought and laid at our feet ; and,
had the canoes been laden, the whole would
have been at our disposal. We returned to the
settlement, much gratified with our entertain
ment. The natives of Atiu, Mauke, and Mitiaro, have
a method of smoke-drying the flying fish, by

which they can preserve them for any length of
time. I am not aware that at any other islands
of the Pacific this practice is adopted. They
have also, with very considerable ingenuity, so
constructed their canoes, as to be enabled to use
boat-oars, which they prefer as being far less
exhausting than their paddles.
Racked and restless with anxiety, wo oc-

111

SU

mmEJM

casionally took a ramble about the island ; and
in tbe course of one of our walks, mention was
made by the natives who accompanied us of
caverns ; and, having found upon inquiry that
there were several in the island of very large
dimensions, we determined to visit one of them.
Taking with us a supply of reeds for flambeaux,
we arrived at the mouth of the largest, which is
called Taketaice; when we descended about
twenty feet, through a chasm in the rocks, at
the bottom of which were several majestic open
ings. Through one of these we entered, and
proceeded I suppose a mile, but could discover
no end to its interminable windings. Innu
merable openings presented themselves on aU
sides as we passed along, many of which ap
peared to be equal in height, beauty, and extent
to the one which we traced. The roof of this
cavern was a stratum of coral, from ten to fifteen
feet in thickness, through which the water per
colated. It was supported by massy and superb
columns, and was thickly setwith stalactites, from
an inch to many feet in length. Some were of
great size and beauty; others were about to
communicate with the floor, and either con
stitute the basis of a young column, or join those
growing up from beneath. The stalagmites,
however, although beautiful, were not numerous.
The floor is composed of the same material, and
is an attractive object ; for it presents the ap
pearance of rippled water when gently agitated
by the wind. At some points of our progress
many openings came into view, with fretwork
ceilings and innumerable supports, the sparkling
of which, as they reflected the light of our
torches, gave a depth and density to the dark
ness of the mansions they served to embellish.
Fain would we have wandered longer in these
gloomy palaces of nature, the dark and drear
abodes of silence and solitude, as we longed to
explore wonders on which the light of day and
the eye of man had never rested. But our
torches failing, we were compelled to satisfy

ourselves with a cursory glance at one only of
the many dreary yet beautiful ways which in
vited our entrance. That one, however, was
enough to fill us with admiration and delight.
But description is impossible. The fantastic
forms and sparkling concretions might have
enabled a vigorous fancy to find resemblances
amongst them to many majestic works of art ;
but the effect was produced, not so much by
single objects, or groups of them, as by the
amplitude, the depth, and the complication of
this subterranean world. The solemn and sub
lime obscurity which sleeps around you adds
not a little to the impressiyeness of the scene.
I was much astonished, that, notwithstanding
I had been in the habit of visiting this island
for many years, I had never before heard of
these superb caves. The natives informed me
that there were six or seven others, but that
the one we explored was the most splendid and
extensive. On visiting the two small islands of
MAUKE AND MITIARO,
we found that the natives, who possessed but
few axes, were burning down trees, for timber
to erect chapels. When the tree fell they burnt
off tbe branches, and then proceeded to burn
the trunk into various lengths. Having with
me a large supply of ironmongery, furnished by
my esteemed and valued friends, the Rev. T.
East, and Rev. J. A. James of Birmingham, I
gave them some tools, encouraged them to per
severe with their work, and promised to return
and open their chapels in six or eight months.
On my next visit I had the satisfaction of seeing
two well-built, substantial places of worship,
which had been erected with the tools, and the
doors of which were swung on the hinges that
I had presented to them in the name of my kind
Birmingham friends. The pulpit at Mauke
was a most remarkable specimen of native in
genuity and perseverance, for it was hewn

MAUKE AND MITIARO— DEVASTATION OF MAUKE.

73

entirely out of one large tree. An hour or two
before service commenced I went to the chapel,
accompanied by the principal chief; and, after
commending his diligence. I said to him, " How
came you to build so large a place t there are
not people enough in your island to fill it."
Instead of answering me he hung down his
head, and appeared much affected. I asked him
why he wept ; observing that it was with us
rather a day of joy than sorrow, for we were
about to dedicate this house to God. " Oh,"
he replied, " I weep in consequence of what you
say, that there are not people enough in the
island to fill this one house ; if you had but
come about, three years before you first visited
us, this house and another like it would not
have contained the inhabitants." On inquiring
what had become of the people, he informed me
that, about three years prior to my first arrival,
a disease had raged among them, which though
not very fatal, was nearly universal. This was
accompanied by a famine, the result of a severe
storm, which swept over and devastated the
island ; and, while enduring these complicated
sufferings, the warriors of Atiu came upon them
in a fleet of eighty canoes, killed the people
indiscriminately, set fire to the houses which
contained the sick, and, haying seized those
who attempted to escape, tossed them upon
fires kindled for the purpose. " By these
means," said the chief, "we have been reduced
to the remnant you now behold ; and had you
not come when you did, our sanguinary de
stroyers would have repeated their visit, killed us
all, and taken the island to themselves." The
person who conducted this murderous expedition
was Roma-tane, whose conversion to Christi
anity, by my discourse upon the folly of idolatry,
I have already described. And it is a deeply

interesting fact, that this chieftain, who, with
savage aspect and devastating cruelty, had led
his ferocious tribe against the almost defenceless
people of Mauke, was not only the first person
whose voice they heard inviting them in accents
of persuasive energy to receive the Gospel of
peace, but also among the very first who there
united in commemorating the Saviour's death.
It was truly a delightful sight, to behold the
once sanguinary chieftain, with his no less
bloodthirsty warriors, sitting down at the same
sacramental table with the remnant of a people
to whom his very name had been a terror, and
whose race he had almost exterminated : thus
verifying what a speaker, at one of our native
Missionary Meetings, observed, "that, by the
Gospel, men became Christians, and savages
brethren in Christ."
The teacher, Haavi, of Mauke, with his wife,
as well as Taua of Mitiaro, have proved their
worth by upwards of twelve years' laborious and
devoted service. The inhabitants of Mauke are
now in a very prosperous state ; and in few
places are the advantages resulting from Chris
tianity more apparent, for there order, harmony,
and happiness prevail — abundance and comfort
are enjoyed.
When I last visited this island Mrs. Williams
and my family were with me ; and, as the
natives hadneverseenaEuropean female or child,
their presence excited considerable interest ; and
crowds hastened to the beach to bid them wel
come. The passage over the reef was a formi
dable undertaking for Mrs. Williams ; but
clasping Samuel with one arm, and her infant
in the other, she committed herself to the skill
of the natives, and was conveyed in safety over
the rising billow to the shore.
The island of Mitiaro is very low, and the

soil has, consequently, so little depth, that the
productions are at times exceedingly scanty ;
and the teacher, Taua, with his large family of
nine or ten children, has occasionally suffered
severe privations.

He is, however a pious, sensible, and labori
ous man. His colleague, I am sorry to say,
fell into sin ; and overcome probably by shame,
put to sea in a canoe, and was never afterwards
heard of.

74

SAIL FOR RAROTONGA— FEARFUL RAVAGES OF DISEASE.

Leaving Mitiaro, we sailed for
RAROTONGA,
where we arrived, after a pleasant sail of two
days, and received a cordial welcome on the
beach from our esteemed friend and brother,
Mr. Buzacott, whose tearful eyes and downcast
look intimated that they were in the furnace of
affliction. This received confirmation from the
appearance of the people ; for, instead of being
greeted by the smiles and shouts of the thousands
who lined the shore on our former visits, only a
small company of children, and a few walking
skeletons, who had exerted their utmost strength
to reach the landing-place, were to be seen.
On inquiring the cause of this, it was with the
deepest sorrow we heard that a most dreadful
and deadly disease was raging among the people,
and sweeping them away as with a deluge ; that
at Mr. Buzacott's station about two hundred and
fifty persons had been its victims ; an equal or
greater number at Arorangi ; and about a hun
dred at Mr. Pitman's, where its ravages had but
recently commenced. So prevalent was this
terrible visitation that scarcely an inhabitant of
the island entirely escaped its influence. The
settlements, formerly so beautiful, were over
grown with weeds, and a general gloom of deso
lation overshadowed the place so distinguished
during my former visits for cheerfulness and
activity. We accompanied Mr. Buzacott to his
residence, when, instead of being greeted with
the animated smile which was wont to play
upon the countenance of his devoted wife, a
flood of tears gave vent to her feelings as she
grasped my hand, and welcomed me to their
house of mourning. As soon as feeling had a
little subsided, they commenced their tale of woe,
to which we listened with the deepest sympathy.
The few natives who had strength to move came
also to see me, and, seating themselves at my
feet, they seized my hand, or clasped my leg,
and mourned in the bitterness of their souls.
Many of the women, while wringing their hands
with agony, said to me, " I only am left of all
my family ; my husband and all my children are
gone, and here am I, friendless, hushandless, and
childless." The almost universal reply to my
inquiries after any one was, " He is dead."
From this gloomy spot we hastened to our
esteemed friends, Mr. and Mrs. Pitman, at
whose station the disease was then raging, and
whom we were truly thankful to find in a better
state of health than might have been anticipated.
Their account, however, of the fearful ravages
of the disease was truly appalling ; and as we
walked through the settlement we found many
houses without an inmate ; all had been swept
away. Those who, by any possible exertion,
could get out of their sickly dwellings, came to
disburden their distress, and once more grasp
my hand before they died ; and others, too feeble
to walk, were either led to the doors to see us
as we passed, or were carried by their friends
on their mats, that they might catch a parting
glance ere they closed their eyes in death. And
while we could have wished that our shadow,
passing by, might have healed them, yet our

principal solicitude was, that our few words of
exhortation and sympathy might be blessed to
the survivors, and be the means of directing the
dying to Him " who bore our griefs and carried
our sorrows."
Pa, the intelligent and now excellent chief of
Mr. Pitman's station, was lying dangerously ill,
and, having a strong desire to see me once more,
sent a request that I would visit him. I returned
a kind answer, but declined acceding to his wish,
on the ground that, as I was prosecuting an im
portant voyage to a new and populous group of
islands, I did not think it prudent to enter their
sickly habitations, lest, by any means, I should
convey the disease with me. On hearing this,
he desired his attendant to carry him to the side
of the pathway, where he was laid, sheltered
from the rays of the sun by the shade of a large
Barringtonia tree. Here we found him awaiting
our arrival ; and, in the course of an interesting
conversation, I was delighted to discover that his
views of Gospel truth were clear, and that his hope
of salvation was built upon Christ alone. He re
garded the affliction in the light of a judgment,
which the people, by their late wickedness in
opposing the truth, in reviving heathen practices,
and in burning the house of God, had merited
at his hands. After commending him in prayer
to the great Disposer of events, we bade each
other an affectionate farewell, never expecting
to meet again on earth. God, however, was
pleased to rebuke his disease, and restore him
to health ; and I am happy to add that he is at
present a devoted, intelligent, and valuable mem
ber ofthe church.
The Missionaries had been unremitting in
their exertions on behalf of their afflicted people ;
and very providentially, a stock of medicine, for
warded by the Directors, had arrived about two
months prior to the breaking out of the disease.
This supply was more valuable than gold ; but
for it, humanly speaking, multitudes more must
have died. My esteemed colleague, Mr. Barff,
had with him a valuable quantity of medicines,
a large portion of which he most cheerfully gave
to our afflicted brethren.
Mr. Buzacott and Mrs. Pitman had suffered
severely from the disease, but were mercifully
restored. The natives said that the pestilence was
brought to their island by a vessel which visited
them just before it commenced its ravages. It
is certainly a fact which cannot be controverted,
that most of the diseases which have raged in the
islands during my residence there have been in
troduced by ships ; and what renders this fact
remarkable is, that there might be no appear
ance of disease among the crew of the ship that
conveyed this destructive importation, and that
the infection was not communicated by any cri
minal conduct on the part of the crew, but by
the common contact of ordinary intercourse.
Another fact, worthy of special notice, is, that
virst intercourse between Europeans and na
tives is, I think, invariably attended with the
introduction of fever, dysentery, or some other
disease which carries off numbers of the people.
At the island of Rapa, nearly half the whole '

IMPORTUNITY OF THE WOMEN— EXAMINATION OF THE NATIVES. 75

population were thus swept away. It is an af
fecting consideration, that civilized man should
thus convey physical as well as moral contami
nation with him, wherever he goes.
Taking an affectionate leave of our beloved
brethren, and their afflicted people, we expressed
our tenderest sympathies in their sufferings, and
united in fervent prayer, " that the Lord would
repent him of the evil, and say to the angel that
destroyed the people, " It is enough." We left
Rarotonga, which is endeared to me by so many
pleasing recollections, and directed our course
for the last ofthe Hervey Island group which was

From hence we expected to take two teachers
and their wives, whom Mr. Piatt had left there
on his late voyage. As soon as the object of our
visit was communicated to the people, they im
mediately called a meetingwhich they invited us
to attend, when they presented a pressing request
that one of the teachers, with his wife, might be
allowed to remain with them. Being much
disconcerted at the prospect of losing them, I
negatived the request. The people, however,
especially the females, who had formed a strong
attachment to the teacher's wife, were so clam
orous and so importunate in their entreaties,
that we found it impossible to refuse. Hun
dreds of these, attired in their best apparel, came
in a body to implore me not to persist in my
determination. They stated that as their former
teacher's wife was dead, they would have no one
to instruct them, and then asked me if I had
not " one little bit of compassion" for them, and
whether the men only had souls, that they alone
were to be cared for, and the women left en
tirely destitute of a teacher. They pleaded so
pathetically and so justly, that, after consulting
with my esteemed colleague, we deemed it ad
visable to accede to their request. We came to
this conclusion the more readily, from observing
the immense advantage the females had derived
from this devoted teacher during the few months
she had resided with them, and their continued
need of her superintendence and instruction.
As soon as the announcement was made joy
beamed in their countenances ; they rushed for
ward to kiss our hands, and ran in all directions
to communicate the delightful intelligence.
As we were deprived of two of our best la
bourers with their wives, Faaruea, whom we had
left at Mangaia, and now of Vahineio, it occurred
to us that our deficiency might be in a measure
supplied by the selection of two pious and use
ful men from among the people of Aitutaki, who,
although not competent to take the charge ofthe
station, would be valuable assistants to their
better-instructed brethren, or even more so as
pioneers among the savage tribes we intended
to visit. We therefore called a meeting of the
people, stated to them our intentions, and wished
to know if there were any among them who
were willing to engage in this work. Two of
their number offered their services ; and, after
much conversation with them and many inqui
ries about them, we concluded that they were
likely to prove both suitable and efficient.

In an interesting meeting, in which they were
set apart to their work, questions were proposed
to them on the leading doctrines of the Gospel
and other important topics, which they answered
satisfactorily. With the farewell address of one
of them we were much gratified. He expressed
his shicere pleasure at the prospect of being en
gaged in so good a work, saying there was
nothing he so much desired as to be employed
in telling others more ignorant than himself
about Jesus Christ and the way of salvation;
that he was willing, for this purpose, to forsake
friends, and house, and lands, yea even three of
his children, because the word of God had told
him, " He that forsaketh not all that he hath
cannot be my disciple ; and he that doeth the
will of my Father in heaven, the same is my
mother, and brother, and sister." He was
therefore willing, he said, to venture his life and
forsake his all in so glorious a work. He con
cluded his affectionate and interesting address
with an earnest request that they would continue
to hold fast the good word themselves and pray
that he might be faithful unto death. Prepa
rations were instantly commenced for their de
parture, when a voluntary contribution was made
by the people for the purpose of supplying
their brethren with all the useful and necessary
articles it was in their power to procure.
During our stay, our timaiWas fully occupied
in examining the school children, explaining
difficult passages of Scripture, and supplying in
formation and advice upon subjects of a civil,
judicial, and religious character. For these
purposes we held numerous meetings, the first
of which was with the children. There were
about four hundred present. We found them
exceedingly fluent in repeating their catechisms,
and ready in replying to our questions, but were
grieved that so few of them could read. We
then proceeded to examine a class of men, sixty
or seventy in number, who read very readily the
seventh chapter of the Acts, which contains
a considerable portion of Old Testament his
tory. The knowledge which their answers
evinced both surprised and delighted us ; for it
must be recollected that the only complete por
tions ofthe Scriptures which the people of Ait
utaki possess is the Acts of the Apostles ; they
have none ofthe Old Testament ; and the other
portions of the New are in detached sheets of
the various Epistles, which, in consequence of
the extensive demand, I was obliged thus to
divide instead of giving to each a complete copy.
They are therefore indebted to the oral instruc
tion of the teachers for all the historical infor
mation they possess: but the Aitutakians are
an exceedingly inquisitive people, quick of ap
prehension, warm in theil temperament, and re
tain with great tenacity the information which is
communicated. This may in a measure account
for their extensive knowledge, as compared with
the means they have enjoyed.
After concluding our service with the men
we met a class of females, who read the second
chapter of the Acts. These were not so nume
rous as the men, neither did they rea dso well
or answer so readily. When, however, we eon-

76

CLASS OF OLD WOMEN— CONTRIBUTION OF PIGS.

sidered that they had been without a female
Missionary for several years, we could not be
otherwise than pleased with their progress. We
had still one more class to meet, and this was
composed of about thirty old women, some
lame, others blind, and all tottering on the
brink of the grave. One or two of them could
read, having learnt after they were upwards of
sixty years of age ; all of them could repeat a
catechism, which contained the leading prin
ciples of Christianity ; and several, although
they had lived so many years in the practice of
heathen wickedness, gave most pleasing evi
dence of a preparation for that change which
they were shortly to experience.
This incident will appear the more interest
ing when it is recollected that the old people of
both sexes prior to the introduction of Christ
ianity, were treated with the greatest cruelty ;
for, as soon as they became burdensome, their
friends or their own children relieved themselves
from further trouble by putting an end to their
existence ; and even after the introduction of the
Gospel they were far from treating their aged
relatives with that kindness which its principles
and spirit require. Commiserating their de
gradation and wretchedness, Mrs. Williams
called together a few of the most active mem
bers of the church at Raiatea, and sent them
through the settlement to ascertain the number
and circumstances of these objects of her solici
tude ; and, on finding they amounted to between
seventy and eighty, she immediately engaged
the female communicants to prepare for them
' suitable clothing. She then called them toge
ther, divided them into classes, placed teachers
over them, and arranged to meet them herself
every Monday afternoon, when they prayed to
gether, and were examined respecting the dis
courses they had heard on the preceding Sabbath.
This proved a real blessing ; for their friends and
relatives, perceiving the kindness shown to them
and the interest taken in their welfare by Mrs.
Williams, paid them much more respect than
formerly ; and by the Divine blessing on these
measures, all of them obtained a considerable
portion of scriptural knowledge, many became
members of our church, and not a few died
most happily. Twice a-year they prepared a
feast, at. which we were always invited to at
tend and give an address. At public service
they generally sat together on two long seats in
front of the pulpit : and on all occasions they
were particularly attentive, which with other
considerations, rendered them not the least
interesting portion of my audience. Vahineino,
the teacher's wife, whom the Aitutakians were
so anxious to retain, was one of Mrs. Williams's
most efficient coadjutors in this work of mercy ;
and immediately on her arrival at Aitutaki she
commenced her benevolent operations among
the aged and infirm there ; and I was pleased
to find that she had a class of between thirty
and forty. Thus various and numerous are the
blessings of the Gospel, which imparts with a
liberal and equal hand to people of all climes,
and under all circumstances ; the new-born in
fant, the hoary-headed man, and the despised

old woman, are alike the objects of its tender
regards. During my previous visit to this island, I was
explaining to the people, one evening, the
manner in which English Christians raised
money to send the Gospel to heathen countries,
On hearing this, they expressed their regret at
not having money, that they also might enjoy
the privilege of " helping in the good work of
causing the word of God to grow." I replied,
" If you have no money, you have something to
buy money with." This idea was quite new to
them, and they wished to know at once what
they possessed which would buy money. I
said to them, " The pigs I brought to your
island on my first visit have multiplied so
greatly, that all of you have now an abundance ;
and if every family in the island were to set
apart a pig, ' for causing the word of God to
grow,' and, when the ships come, to sell them
for money, instead of cloth and axes, a valuable
contribution might be raised." The idea de
lighted them exceedingly, and early the next
morning the squeaking of the pigs, which were
receiving a particular mark in the ear for this
purpose, was heard from one end of the settle
ment to the other. In the interim a ship had
been there, the captain of which had purchased
their pigs, and paid for them most honourably ;
and, now, to my utter astonishment, the native
treasurer put into my hands 103*.; partly in
bills and partly in cash ! This was the first
money they ever possessed, and every farthing
of it was dedicated to the cause of Christ !
The circumstance which renders this narra
tion of the work of God at Aitutaki, Atiu, Man
gaia, and Mauke, particularly interesting is,
that all the beneficial changes which have been
effected at these islands are the result of the
labours of native Missionaries, no European
Missionary having ever resided at either of
them. We now took our departure, accompanied by
the teachers, with their wives and children —
altogether thirty persons. The kind people of
Aitutaki loaded us with provisions : and after
commending each other to God in prayer, we
bade them an affectionate farewell, and hoisting
our beautiful flag,* whose dove and olive-branch
were emblematical both of our name and object,
we spread our sails, and pursued our course,
watched by the interested multitude we had left
until we appeared as a speck in the horizon,
and were lost in the distance.
* This flog was made, and sent to me by some kind
ladies at Brighton ; the ground was blue, having a large
white dove, willi a green olive branch in its mouth, most
beautifully executed ; and the thought occurred to me
at the lime, that, could these Lind ladies have seen the
Messenger of Peace, bearing ten native Missionaries to
their sphere of labour, with the work of their own hinds
flying at her mast-head, it would have afforded them
peculiar delight.

LEAVE AITUTAKI— SAVAGE ISLAND.

77

CHAPTER XVII.
Leave Aitutaki — Savage Island — Difficulty iu obtaining
Intercourse— Savage appearance of the People — Reach
Tongatabu— Cordial Reception by the Wesleyan Mis
sionaries — Account of their Labours — Arrangement en
tered into with them— A Sabbath at Tonga — Meet
with Fauea — Productions.
In order to gain as much information as pos
sible about the inhabitants of the group which
we were intending to visit, we determined, in
stead of steering direct for the Navigators' Is
lands, to proceed first to Tongatabu ; for while
we endeavoured to repose implicit confidence
on the promised protection of a faithful God,
we did not deem it to be less our duty to take
every precaution for our own safety which pru
dence might suggest, and therefore resolved to
proceed to that island, as there had been, from
time immemorial, frequent intercourse between
the inhabitants of the Navigators and Friendly
groups. The Wesleyan Missionaries also were
labouring at Tongatabu, with great success, and
we were anxious to visit them.
Having to pass an island discovered by Cap
tain Cook, which, in consequence of the fero
cious character of its inhabitants, he called
Savage Island, we determined to touch there,
and leave with them the two Aitutakian teachers,
to impart the knowledge of that Gospel by
which, savage as they are, they will ultimately
be civilized and blessed.
After a pleasant sail of five or six days, we
reached the island in question, which we found
to be of the second class, the altitude of its most
elevated land not exceeding a hundred feet. It
is neither beautiful nor romantic. The shores
were iron-bound, and the rocks in most places
perpendicular, with here and there a recess, by
which the natives had intercourse with the sea.
We observed, also, as we sailed along the coast,
a number of chasms and caverns of various sizes
and depths. Arriving opposite to a sandy beach,
and perceiving some natives on shore, we waved
a white flag, which is the signal used to obtain
friendly intercourse. Instead, however, of
launching their little canoes, and accepting our
invitation, they waved one in return ; and on
perceiving this, we immediately lowered our
boat and made for the shore ; but, on approach
ing it, we found the natives arranged in hostile
array, as if to repel an invasion. Each of them
had three or four spears, with his sling, and a
belt full of large stones. When they had ar
rived within one or two hundred yards of the
reef, our natives lay upon their oars, spent a few
moments in prayer, and then proceeded to the
shore, making signs to the savages to lay down
their weapons. This they did readily when
they perceived that there were no Europeans in
the boat ;* and, coming down to the extreme
point ofthe reef, they bade our people welcome,
by presenting the utu, or peace-offering. This
• In our first intercourse with a savage people, we
seldom went in the boat ourselves ; for, when the hea
then see that people of their own nation and colour only
are there, suspicion is at once disarmed, and communi
cation more easily opened,

custom appears to be very general among the
inhabitants of the Pacific Isles, and consists in
presenting to the visitor a bread-ffuit, a piece
of cloth, or some other article, with the sacred
cocoa-nut leaf, which they call Tapaaw, attached
to it ; on receiving which the sttang^r returns
some trifle, as a token of amity, and., a kind of
ratification that the intercourse shall lie peace
able. This ceremony having been performed,
the natives launched some of their canoes, and
advanced towards our vessel, but evinced, by
their cautious movements, and the respectful
distance they kept, that they indulged the most
fearful apprehensions. An old chieftain, how
ever, was at length induced to venture into the
boat, and with hirn they hastened to the ship.
His appearance was truly terrific. He was
about sixty years of age, his person tall, his
cheek-bones raised and prominent, and his coun
tenance most forbidding ; his whole body was
smeared with charcoal, his hair and beard were
both long and grey, and the latter, plaited ahd
twisted together, hung from his mouth like so
many rats' tails. He wore no clothing, except
a narrow slip of cloth around his loins, for the
purpose of passing a spear through, or any other
article he might wish to carry. On reaching
the deck, the old man was most frantic in his
gesticulations, leaping about from place to place,
and using the most vociferous exclamations at
everything he saw. All attempts at conversa
tion with him were entirely useless, as we could
not persuade him to stand still even for a single
second. Our natives attempted to clothe him,
by fastening around his person a piece of native
cloth ; but, tearing it off in a rage, he threw it
upon deck, and, stamping upon it, exclaimed,
" Am I a woman, that I should be encumbered
with that stuff!" He then proceeded to give
us a specimen of a war-dance, which he com
menced by poising and quivering his spear,
running to and fro, leaping and vociferating, as
though inspired by the spirit of wildness. Then
he distorted his features most horribly by ex
tending his mouth, gnashing his teeth, and
forcing his eyes almost out of their sockets.
At length he concluded this exhibition by
thrusting the whole of his long grey beard into
his mouth, and gnawing it with the most sa
vage vengeance. During the whole of the per
formance he kept up a loud and hideous howl.
Retaining the old chief as a hostage, our boat
again approached the shore, and our people
were permitted to land. The islanders gave
them some food, and were friendly in their
intercourse, taking care, however, to have their
war weapons in readiness for a moment of
exigency. A person apparently of some impor
tance now arrived, and gave the teacher to
understand that we had better take the vessel
to another part of the island. On their return
to the ship, we gave our wild guest a present,
which consisted of a hatchet, a knife, a looking-
glass, and a pair of scissors ; none of which,
however, did he appear to prize, not knowing
their use ; but, just as he was leaving the vessel,
he caught sight of a large mother-of-pearl shell,
which one of our people was handling, and,

78

DIFFICULTY OF INTERCOURSE— A LANDING EFFECTED.

springing forward, he seized it from him, and
appeared, from his frantic expressions of joy, to
have obtained an article of superlative value.
Thus laden, he was returned to the shore, where
he received the hearty congratulations of his
wife and people on his happy escape from a
most perilous situation.
Night coming on, we stood to sea, hoping in
the morning to hold more beneficial intercourse
with the degraded inhabitants of this island ;
but the next day also was spent in fruitless
attempts to obtain it. A landing, however,
was effected by the two teachers from Aitutaki,
whom I had intended for this island, and some
of our own people ; when, after having been
handled, smelt, and all but tasted, perceiving a
vast multitude of natives approach, thoroughly
equipped for war, they thought it advisable to
return without delay to the ship ; but suc
ceeded in getting one individual on board, who
represented himself as a chief of some impor
tance, although the only badge of distinction
we could discover was a few shells, and part of
an old clasp-knife handle, dangling to a narrow'
girdle around his waist. All the men were in
a state of nature, and appeared quite unconsci
ous of any impropriety. Very few of the women
were seen, for they ran away into the woods on
the approach of our people. Not able, however,
to restrain their curiosity, some ventured near
enough to take a peep at the strangers, as they
were probably the first persons wearing Euro
pean clothing they had ever seen.
The teachers from Aitutaki, with their wives,
were so much discouraged and alarmed at the
prospect of settling among these wretchedly
degraded islanders, that they requested us to
allow them to accompany their brethren from
the Society Islands, to whom they would act as
assistants, and with whom they were willing to
labour at the Navigators or any other station.
We, of course, acceded to their request, not,
however, apprehending that their lives would
be in danger, though, in all probability, they
would have been plundered of everything they

The only way that now remained by which
we might in some degree accomplish the object
of our visit, was to endeavour to induce a native
or two to accompany us to the Society Islands,
keep them for a short time, load them with
presents of useful articles, and then restore them
to their home. This we succeeded, after con
siderable difficulty, in effecting. As soon,
however, as the youths perceived that we were
losing sight of their island, they became most
frantic in the expressions of their grief, tearing
their hair, and howling in the most affecting
manner. We had recourse to every expedient
to inspire their confidence and assuage their
grief, but for the first three or four days their
incessant bowlings were of the most heart-rend
ing description ; we could neither induce them
to eat, drink, or sleep. When animal food. was
offered to them they turned away with disgust,
and howled most piteously : for, having never
seen it before, they concluded that we were
cooking and eating human flesh, that we had

.taken them on board for the same purpose, and
that when our present stock was exhausted they
Were to be put to death and devoured.
Their fears, however, were in some measure
removed on the third day, by seeing a pig
killed ; and from that time they gradually
became more tranquil, were reconciled to then-
new companions, and even delighted with the
prospect of seeing other countries. We were
induced to be extremely cautious in our inter
course with the inhabitants of Savage Island,
from having been informed that the islanders
had seized a boat belonging to a vessel which
had touched there a few months before, and
murdered all the crew. They are certainly the
most wretched and degraded of any natives I
have ever seen, except the aborigines of New
Holland. But this ought to increase our com
passion for them, and also our zeal to introduce
that religion which alone will be effectual in
taming their ferocious dispositions, reforming
their savage habits, and rendering intercourse
with them safe and beneficial. Facts abundantly
prove that the Gospel is the grand catholicon
for healing the social/the civil, and the moral
maladies of man.
On leaving Savage Island, we steered a direct
course for Tongatabu, which is about 350 miles
west ; a full sight of which we gained as soon
as we passed Eua, a mountainous island which
lay in our track. Entering the channel from
the east, between the main land and a row of
beautiful islets which stud and adorn the reef
on the north, we steered our devious and dan
gerous way, amidst shoals and rocks, without
pilot or chart, until we reached our destination,
off the interesting Missionary settlement, Nu
kualofa, where, in July, 1830, we dropped our
anchor. On reaching the shore we received a
most cordial welcome from our Wesleyan
brethren, Messrs. Turner and Cross, who, with
their excellent wives, kindly invited us to take
up our abode with them during our stay. To
this we readily agreed, and were delighted with
the opportunity of observing the untiring dili
gence with which they were prosecuting the
objects of their mission, and the encouraging
prospects of success which sustained and ani
mated them in their labours.
Early the next morning, Mr. Barff and myself
accompanied Mr. Turner to the native school,
which was held in the old plastered chapel,
erected by those who had been converted to
Christianity through the labours of our native
Missionary who before had occupied the station.
The progress which many had made in reading
and writing was most gratifying ; some of them
wrote a free and intelligible hand, and numbers
were employed in copying portions of the sacred
Scriptures, which our Wesleyan brethren
had translated into the Tonga language.
This building having become too small, the
Christians were now engaged in erecting a
larger one, on which the king and his party were
at work when we visited it. This is a complete
Tonga house, which, being encircled with reeds,
and executed with great neatness, looks ex
ceedingly well, yet is far inferior, in appear--

THE TEACHERS DISCOURAGED.

79

ance and value, to the chapels in the Society
Islands, which we plaster and whitewash with
lime made from the coral rock. The site on
which the building was erected was the most
elevated spot on the island, and this, with other
circumstances, gave it additional interest. Ton
gatabu, although nearly a hundred miles in cir
cumference, is perfectly flat, and rises only a
few feet above the level of the sea. The only
elevated spot is this small hill, which is not, I
think, above fifty feet in height ; whether natural
or artificial, I did not ascertain. It was the
fortress to which the people of the district
retired in times of war, and is particularly
memorable in the annals of Tonga warfare, from
the circumstance of its having been the place
where the inhabitants first experienced the
deadly power of the cannon-hall.
In the year 1806 a privateer, called the Port
au Prince, was taken by the natives of the neigh
bouring island of Lefuga, and nearly all the crew
were murdered. A young man named Mariner
and a few others, were spared. The arms and am
munition of the vessel fell into the hands of the
natives who, headed by Finau, the celebrated
chief of the Vavau Islands, came over to Tong
atabu to engage in a terrible battle. Mariner
accompanied his friends, and had the manage
ment of the cannon committed to him. The
Tonga army encamped upon the top of this hill,
and entrenched themselves by digging two deep
ditches around it, the earth of which formed
embankments that remain nearly perfect to the
present day. Upon the top of these they erected
strong reed fences, and thus fortified and en
trenched, they awaited in confident security the
attack of the invaders. But the action was no
sooner begun, than they found, to their consterna
tion and dismay, their houses falling down upon
them, their canoes, which they had taken into
the entrenchment for safety, shivered to pieces,
the splinters of which were killing and wounding
in all directions ; and their reed fences, which
presented an effectual barrier against the stones
and spears of their own warriors, offered no
defence against the force of a cannon-ball. As
the circumstance of that memorable event were
still fresh in our recollection, we viewed the
place with feelings of peculiar interest ; and I
could not help contrasting the difference of the
scenes which in future would be witnessed upon
the top of that hill. It was here the affrighted
Tongatabuans first heard the thunder of a Bri
tish cannon, whose deadly operations were di
rected by a British subject ; and I rejoiced to
reflect, that on this very spot they would soon
hear the still small voice of the Gospel, whose
life-giving truths would be proclaimed to them
by subjects of the same kingdom. It was here
they experienced the deadly power of the can
non-ball, which destroyed their property, man
gled their bodies, and spread horror and dismay
amongst them. Here also I was delighted to
think that they would soon feel the effects of
the Gospel, which, by its moral power, would
elevate their character, ameliorate their miseries,
and diffuse among them joy, and peace, and
happiness.

On the day after our arrival at Tongatabu we
received information from Mr. Samuel Henry
and others which induced us to reconsider and
rearrange our plans. Our original intention was,
to have gone to the Fiji Islands and New He
brides, previously to visiting the Navigators'
group ; but from the painfully distressing ac
counts now received we resolved to proceed at
once to the latter.
The interesting station at which we had
arrived was formerly occupied by native Mis
sionaries connected with the London Mission
ary Society, who were induced to relinquish it
to the Wesleyan brethren. The circumstances
which led to this were communicated to us at a
fraternal meeting, where we learned that they
had received from the people an invitation, in
which the native teacher himself (not being
aware of any difference of sentiment among
Missionaries) most cordially united. Thus our
brethren had a settlement prepared for them, a
commodious chapel with the king and three or
four hundred people professing Christianity
ready to treat them kindly, and receive instruc
tion from their lips. Mr. Turner was delighted
with the circumstance, liberally rewarded the
teacher, and in conversation with us, com
mended, in warm terms, his consistency and
devotedness. It was pleasing to hear such a
testimony to the character of one of our native
Missionaries, and most gratifying to reflect that
the labours of this devoted individual were the
foundation of all that success which has since
crowned the efforts of our brethren, the Wesley
an Missionaries, at these islands. At this con
ference also, the brethren expressed a wish that,
as the Fiji Islands were so near to Tongatabu,
and politically connected with it, we should
leave that field open to them, and urged upon
us the extent and importance ofthe Navigators,
on the ground that the affinity ot the languages,
and other circumstances, appeared to assign
that group to ourmission and the Fijis to theirs.
Feeling the great importance of keeping our
spheres of labour distinct, we readily acceded
to their proposition ; and Mr. Barff and myself
on the one part, and Mr. Turner and Mr. Cross
on the other, agreed that we should occupy the
Navigators' Islands, and they bend their atten
tion to the Fijis. But as we had two native
Missionaries for this latter group, and as we had
now an opportunity of sending them, we would
do so, with a distinct understanding that when
ever Wesleyan Missionaries should arrive from
England for the Fiji Islands, they should pro
ceed, if they pleased, to the very spot where our
native Missionaries were labouring. Mr. Barff
and myself both assured them that we should
feel as much pleasure in being instrumental in
preparing a way for the labours of their Mis
sionaries, as for those from our own Society.
And here I may just remark upon the desirable
ness of every society having a distinct sphere of
labour among a heathen people. Much as I
should rejoice in being associated with an Epis
copalian, a Baptist or a Methodist brother,
who did not attach primary importance to se
condary objects, yet the interests of every mis-

80

THE SITE OF THE CHAPEL— DISTINCT SPHERES DESIRABLE.

sion, especially in the early stages of its progress,
seem to me to require another line of conduct.
The natives, though comprehending but very
imperfectly our objects, would at once discern
a difference in the modes of worship, and their
attention would of necessity be divided and dis
tracted. Being also of au inquisitive disposition,
they would demand a reason for every little
deviation which would lead to explanations first
from the one party, and then from the other, and
thus evils would arise, which otherwise might
never have existed. There would have been
another great inconvenience, in the present
instance, had we both gone to one group of is
lands, from the circumstance of the Wesleyan
Missionaries having adopted a different ortho
graphy and alphabet, as well as different ele
mentary and other books. I do therefore sin
cerely hope that the directors or conductors
of all Missionary Societies will be ever ready in
this way to sacrifice denominational peculiarities
to tbe great object of their institution.
The first Sabbath we spent at Tonga was one
of much interest. At daylight, all our teachers
with the crew of the vessel, met for worship ;
when a sermon was addressed to them, in the
Tahitian language. After breakfast we all at
tended the worship of the Tongatabuans. The
congregation consisted of between three and
four hundred people, and Mr. Turner preached
to them with great fluency in the native lan
guage, which we perceived was far from being
so soft and mellifluous as the Tahitian. After
this the two brethren, Turner and Cross, admi
nistered the ordinance of baptism to upwards of
thirty persons, men only. When native ser
vice was concluded, at the request of the bre
thren I preached in English to the mission fa
milies and Europeans from the vessels. In the
afternoon Mr. Cross preached again "to the
natives, and then baptized about thirty females,
principally the wives of those who were baptized
in the morning. Towards evening a third ser
vice was held for the benefit of the natives, when
about thirty-eight couple were publicly married.
As the Tongatabuans, in their heathen state had
several wives, the Wesleyan Missionaries re
quired each convert to put them all away except
the one who might be the object of his prefer
ence, and to whom, after they were baptized, he
was publicly married. This accounts for the
number of marriages solemnized on this day.
They have also pursued the plan of giving Chris
tian names to those whom tliev baptize. The
queen they call Mary Tupou, and the king
Jeremiah Tupou. The American Mission
aries at the Sandwich Islands, and the Church
Missionaries of New Zealand, have done the
same. This appears to us the introduction of a
new feature into the Polynesian language, which
its genius does not admit, and to which there is
nothing analogous. It may be said that many
of the natives have two names, as Tupuo-totai
of Tongatabu, Makca-nui of Rarotonga, and
a variety of others. But these are mere appen
dages to the name descriptive of the office or
occupation of the individual : total, added to
Tupou's name, is, literally, the sailor ; nut to

Makea is, the great, answering to the appella
tions Necho aud Epiphanes, which were ap
pended to the names of Pharaoh, Antiochus,
and others. Now we should not think of pre
fixing a Christian name to that of Pharaoh, and
calling him Jeremiah Pharaoh, or to that of
Cleopatra, and calling her Elizabeth Cleopatra,
as the missionaries to whom I have referred
have done. There is also a native dignity in
the name itself, which is lost when thus asso
ciated ; and, as the idiom of this language will
not admit such an incongruous combination of
terms, I do sincerely hope that all the Mission
aries will use every effort to transmitjt to pos
terity, pure, simple, and beautiful as they
found it.
On the following day a circumstance of pecu
liar interest and importance occurred. Simple
and comparatively insignificant in itself, it was
one of those numerous pivots, in the arrange
ments of Divine Providence, upon which the
most momentuous events are frequently poised ;
one of those little eogs in the wheels of the com
plicated machinery which are essential to its
operations. A man came to us, and stated that
he was a chief of the Navigators' Islands ; that
he was related to the most influential families
there ; that he had been eleven years absent
from his home, and was anxiously desirous of
returning ; and, having heard of our intention
to convey the Gospel to his countrymen, he
offered, if we would take him with us, to em
ploy his utmost influence with his relatives, the
chiefs, and with bis countrymen generally, to
induce them to receive the teachers kindly, and
attend to their instructions. This we considered
a most favourable incident ; but, as so many re
present themselves as of greater importance than
they really are, we determined to inquire into
the truth of his statements before we complied
with his request, and desired him to come again
to us on the following morning. As Tupou the
king, and others, confirmed what he had said,
and also informed us that his wife was a Chris
tian, and that he, although not having made a
public profession of Christianity, was frequent
in his attendance on the means of grace, and
decidedly friendly to the lotu,* we determined
to make the best use we could of an instrument
which God had thus placed at our disposal ; and
therefore, when he came to us the next day, we
received him with respect, made him a trifling
present, and informed him of our willingness to
take him, with his wife and family, to his native
land. He left us much delighted, and went
home to prepare for his voyage. His name was
Fauea. He appeared to be an active, intelligent
man, and proved to us an invaluable acquisition.
During the week we were much engaged in pre
paring and fitting boarding-nettings to our ves
sel, which consist of nets, three or four yards
deep, made of rope about the thickness of the
little finger, which are fastened to upright sup
porters all round the vessel, to prevent the na
tive? from coming on board.
It has been already stated that missions were
commenced simultaneously by the London Mis-
* A name for the new religion.

HAPAI ISLANDS— VOLCANIC ISLAND.

81

sionary Society at the Marquesan, Tahitian, and
Friendly Islands. In the year 1796 Captain
Wilson placed ten Missionaries at Tongatabu.
These remained at their stations, without re
ceiving any material injury from the natives,
until the breaking out of a civil war, in April
1799, whenMessrs. Bowel, Gaulton, and Hooper,
who appear to have been pious and devoted men,
were barbarously murdered. The other Mis
sionaries were plundered of their property, and
saved their lives only by flight. After being in
perilous circumstances for several months, they
were delivered by a very remarkable providence.
The ship Betsy, letter of marque, touched at
Tahiti, having with her a Spanish prize, which
Mr. Harris, one ofthe Missionaries, undertook to
navigate to New South Wales, on the condition
that Captain Clark would call at Tongatabu, to
see the brethren. Finding on his arrival the
dangerous situation of the Missionaries, Captain
Clark very humanely offered to convey them all,
free of expense, to New South Wales. Thus
the mission was abandoned.
During our stay at Tonga we left the settle
ment, on one occasion, to visit the spot where
our three unfortunate brethren fell, but, the
distance being great, a deluging rain compelled
us to return.
In our various perambulations we observed
that the soil generally was very rich, and that
many large tracts of land were under cultivation.
The banana and mountain plantain groves were
large and numerous. The fruit of these trees
forms an important part of the food of the
Friendly Islanders, although they depend
principally upon the yam, of which invaluable
esculent they raise immense quantities ; and the
Tongatabuans excel all their neighbours in the
cultivation of it. Still we observed large portions
of land lying waste, the present number of
inhabitants not requiring them ; but the natives
informed me that, a few years before, the whole
island was in a high state of cultivation, until
their frequent wars,- combined with successive
attacks of dysentery and other diseases, had so
fearfully reduced the population. It is earnestly
to be hoped that, by the blessing of God on the
labours of his devoted servants, all the inhabi
tants will soon be brought under the salutary
influence of that Gospel — in the train of which,
blessings of every kind will follow ; for " god
liness is profitable unto all things."

CHAPTER XVIII.
Hapai Islands — Volcanic Island — Escape Shipwreck —
Finau's Despotism — A lamentable Accountof aNative
Teacher — An account of the Introduction of Christi
anity at the Hapai Islands — The intrepid Conduct of
the Chief— Idols hung.
After spending a fortnight most pleasantly and
profitably with our kind friends, we prepared
for our departure. On leaving Tongatabu we
could not proceed in a direct course to the
Navigators, having first to visit the Vavau
Islands ; to which group our colleague, Mr.
No. 6.

Orsmond, had some time ago sent three native
Missionaries. One of these removed to Ton
gatabu, and was made very useful there ; but,
as the others had disgraced themselves exceed
ingly, Mr. Piatt (who succeeded Mr. Orsmond)
selected one of their brethren to supply their
place. As Mrs. Cross was in delicate health,
and it was thought that a voyage might be
beneficial to her, Mr. Cross expressed a wish
that himself and Mrs. C. might accompany us
to the Hapai Islands ; and, as we should pass
them in our way to Vavau, we felt much pleasure
in acceding to their request.
We cannot take leave of Tongatabu without
acknowledging the kindness shown to us by our
Missionary brethren and their wives. From
Tupou, the king, also, we received great atten
tion ; for the vessel had not been long at anchor,
before he sent a messenger to request that all
the teachers and their wives might be allowed
to take up their residence with him. This they
did, and were gratuitously supphed by him
with every necessary during the whole of our
stay at Tongatabu. He also made us a present
of two fine pigs and some yams. The teachers'
wives, all of whom were well dressed in Euro
pean clothing, and wore bonnets manufactured
by themselves from native materials, had
attracted considerable notice ; and, at the special
request of the queen, they made her one of
similar shape and materials, and began imme
diately to instruct her and her female attendants
in the art. By uniting their efforts, the queen's
bonnet was completed before the Sabbath ; and
for the first time in her life she appeared at
worship in European costume, presenting a
most striking contrast to the awkward half-
dress of her countrywomen. Some few months
afterwards I received a letter from Mr. Turner,
wherein he informed me that the females had
much improved in the art of making bonnets,
and had generally adopted the practice of
wearing them.
On the morning after our departure from
Tongatabu we saw two islands of considerable
height, in the vicinity of which were several of
those detached reefs, which render this part of
the ocean exceedingly dangerous in thick and
stormy weather. As we approached we saw
heavy clouds of smoke ascending from the
burning mountain of Tofua, which the natives
call Coe afi a Devolo, " The Devil's fire." But
our attention was too much engaged with the
numerous reefs and islets which presented a
barrier in every direction, to regard any other
object, until some fishermen pointed out to us
an opening between two islands. Through this
we steered, congratulating ourselves on our
escape, and, after sailing at a rapid rate for
several hours, and passing a number of small
islets, we descried the island of Lefuga, and
entertained the pleasing prospect of dropping
anchor in an hour or two near to the residence
of Mr, Thomas, when in a moment we were
thrown into the utmost consternation, by finding
ourselves again involved amongst reefs, sunken
rocks, small islands, and sand-banks, more
numerous and dangerous than those from which

82

FINAU'S DESPOTISM— THE FALLEN TEACHER.

we had previously been rescued. These, stretch
ing out before us, prevented our proceeding.
Unfortunately, our pilot had directed us to take
the wrong channel, but, as we had still two or
three hours daylight, and a strong wind, by
manceuvring and tacking about till eight o'clock
in the evening we at last extricated ourselves,
to the no small relief of all on board, and suc
ceeded in reaching an anchorage. Early the
next morning we sailed for, Lefuga, and met
Mr. Thomas on the beach, ready to welcome
us to the hospitalities of his house. On landing
with Mr. and Mrs. Cross, we were happy to
find that a great work was going on among the
people. We were also informed that Finau,
the chief of the Vavau Islands, with many of
his people, was at Lefuga. This was agreeable
news, as his presence would prevent the
necessity of our visiting that group.
From the boat Mr. Thomas conducted us to
the residence of the chief Taufaahau, who re
ceived us with much ceremony, and treated us
with great respect. On being informed who
we were, and what was the object of our visit,
he expressed himself delighted to see us. We
next waited upon Finau, accompanied by Messrs.
Thomas and Cross, who kindly acted as our
interpreters. He wore no badge of royalty of
any description, and, being of low stature, dark
complexion, and forbidding aspect, his appear
ance furnished no indication of his rank. When
led into his presence, we found his majesty, and
many of his chiefs, amusing themselves with a
favourite game, which consisted of throwing a
large spear into the air, so that it might fall
perpendicularly, and pierce the top of a post of
soft wood set up for the purpose. In this Finau
appeared to excel. As soon, however, as he saw
us, he laid down his spear and came towards us,
and, when told by Mr. Thomas who we were,
he conducted us to his temporary abode, which
was a hut made of cocoa-nut leaves, standing in
front of twenty or thirty others of similar con
struction. The whole party then sat down,
Finau being surrounded by his chiefs, when he
was informed that we were Missionaries, and
that, having laboured for many years in the
Tahitian and Society Islands, the inhabitants
of which had derived great advantage from
our instructions, we were desirous of imparting
to him and his people the same benefits, and for
this purpose had sent, some few years ago, three
persons to fhe island of Vavau; but, having
learned with much grief that two of these had
disgraced their profession by returning to the
evil practices which in their own island they had
abandoned, we had brought with us an indi
vidual whose character had been tried, and who,
we hoped, would prove a blessing to him and
his people. We wished, therefore, to know
whether he was willing to receive him, and sub
mit to his instructions. The chief listened with
great attention, and replied by saying, that the
persons who were formerly sent endeavoured to
instruct him and his people, but they would not
be taught ; when the teachers, finding all their
efforts ineffectual, ceased to make them, and at
length became like themselves. As to receiving

the new teacher, he said, he would speak his
sentiments freely, and not deceive us. If he
was placed at Vavau, he would protect him, but
he would neither embrace Christianity himself,
nor allow his people : for he would put to death
the very first person, man, woman, or child, who
did so. We did not think it desirable to argue
the point with this imperious chieftain, but
contented ourselves with expressing om- sorrow
that he should so resolutely oppose that which
would have proved so great a blessing ; ahd
added, that we should pray to God on his behalf,
who had power to subdue his spirit, and means
at his command to induce him to change his
mind on so important a subject.
On inquiry, we ascertained that the general
conduct of Finau had been iri accordance with
his terrible threat. Many of the Vavauans,
(amongwhom were some ofthe principal chiefs,)
anxious to be instructed in the principles of
Christianity, had left their wives and families,
their houses and plantations, and had come to
reside at Lefuga, to enjoy the advantages of Mr.
Thomas's instructions. Here we found them
in comparative poverty and dependence ; greatly
preferring this state to the renunciation of
Christianity, between which and a cruel death
at the murderous hand of their despotic chieftain
there would have been no alternative, had they
returned to Vavau. We ourselves were eye
witnesses of the unrestrained tyranny which
Finau exercised over his people. While ai
Lefuga, we sent for Taute the. only survivor of
the three teachers, but as Finau was not willing
that we should speak to the unfortunate man
except in his presence, he remained with us
during the interview. The poor unhappy crea
ture came to us, pale and trembling, dressed
like the heathen among whom he was living.
His appearance excited our deepest sympathy,
and for a time he was too overcome. As soon
as his feelings subsided a little, he gave us a
most interesting account of Porapora, who,
grieved with his conduct, and that of his com
panion, had removed to Tongatabu, where his
labours had been exceedingly useful, and his
death very happy. Zorababela, his other col
league, had died in his sins at Vavau. We
then referred to his own awful condition, which
he acknowledged, and said that he was truly
miserable, that he knew he was lost, and could
not entertain a hope of salvation. Wishing to
reclaim this wanderer, we offered to take him
home, and urged him to accompany us ; to
which he replied that he had a wife and child
whom he could not leave, and he knew that the
chief would not allow him to go. For some
time Finau was silent, but no sooner did he
perceive that our conversation was producing a fa
vourable impression1 upon tbe unfortunate back
slider, than he spoke to him very sternly, and
threatened him with severe penalties if he lis
tened any longer to our exhortations, or altered
his conduct in consequence of them.
After this interview with Finau we returned
home with Messrs. Thomas and Cross, to con
sult upon our proceedings with reference to
Vavau ; when, after a little consideration, we

A NOBLE-MINDED CHIEF— IDOLS HUNG.

83

determined not to leave the teacher at that sta
tion, but to take him with us to the Navigators
Islands, where the field was more extensive and
the prospects were so encouraging. We were
reconciled to this disappointment by the consi
deration that the excellent and judicious Mr.
Thomas was in the vicinity, to take advantage
of the first opportunity that offered ; beside
which, he had under instruction a number of
Vauvauans, who were anxiously desirous of con
veying to their perishing and deluded country
men the knowlege and blessings of the Gospel,
and who would enter the door immediately, if,
in the providence of God, it should be thrown
open to them. We spent the evening very
pleasantly and profitably, in conversation with
our brethren, and their excellent wives, upon
the difficulties, duties, and encouragements of a
Missionary life. During this intercourse they
informed us that nearly a hundred persons had
become candidates for the ordinance of baptism,
and were then under a course of instruction,
preparatory to its administration ; and that
many others were waiting till the great festival
then in preparation, was over, when they in
tended to make a more decided profession of
religion. A considerable number attended the
schools daily, and had made great progress in
reading and writing. We united most cordi
ally with our friends in acknowledgments to
the Author of all our mercies, for the success
which had attended their labours, and for the
pleasing arid extensive prospects of usefulness
open before them. The fields were literally
white unto the harvest.
The wind being favourable, we determined
lo take advantage of it ;. and on the following
morning we prepared for our departure.
As the introduction of Christianity to this
group of islands was attended with circum
stances of peculiar interest, a brief notice of
them may be acceptable. The Hapai group,
of which Lefuga is the principal, is a cluster of
between thirty and forty small coralline islands,
eighteen or twenty of which are inhabited, and
subject to the authority of one principal chief,
named Taufaahau. When we saw him he was
about thirty years of age, of most noble appear
ance and commanding aspect : with a counte
nance expressive of the superior discernment,
great decision, and undaunted resolution, which,
in a very extraordinary degree, distinguished
and adorned his character. Having heard of
the progress and effects of Christianity at Ton
gatabu, he determined to visit that island, and
form his own judgment of the new religion.
From his youth, we were told, that this truly
wonderful man had despised the whole system
of idol worship. But when he visited Tonga
tabu, he resolved to abandon at once the gods
of his forefathers, and place himself under Chris
tian instruction. He therefore solicited Mr.
Thomas to accompany him to the Hapai Islands ;
but as it was thought desirable by his brethren
that the chief should give some proof of his
sincerity, before Mr. Thomas removed to so
great distance, they agreed to send, m the first
instance, a native convert, named Peter, on the

condition, that should the chief remain steadfast,
perform his promises, and after a specified time
send a war-canoe to fetch Mr. and Mrs. Thomas,
they would then accede to his request.
Taufaahau returned to his dominions, and
immediately commenced tbe work of destruction
upon the gods and the maraes. Having effected
this at his own island, he proceeded through
the group, exhorting and persuading the chiefs
and inhabitants to follow his example. His
efforts were successful in all the islands, with
the exception of three or four ; the chiefs and
people of which were exceedingly indignant at
such impious innovations, and resolved, if pos
sible, to counteract the effects of his unprece
dented conduct. For this purpose, they de
termined to celebrate a great festival, in honour
of the gods whom the chief was then dese
crating ; and accordingly sent their fishermen
to catch turtle and other sacred fish. Taufaahau,
resolving to anticipate and neutralize this move
ment, drove a large herd of pigs into the sacred
enclosure, converted a most beautiful little tem
ple, which stood in the middle of it, into a
sleeping apartment for his female servants, and
suspended the gods by the neck to the rafters
of the house in which they had been adored !
The idolaters, ignorant of his proceedings, came,
with great ceremony, attended by their priests,
to present their offerings, and found, to their
astonishment, a number of voracious pigs, ready to
devour anything they had to offer ; and the gods,
disrobed of their apparel, hanging in degrada
tion, like so many condemned criminals. They
retired from the spectacle with great indigna
tion : but as they were comparatively few, and
knew the character of the man with whom they
had to contend, their rage spent itself like the
foaming billow when it dashes upon the shore.
The chief conducted us into this once sacred
spot, the area of which did not exceed half an
acre, and was adorned by several beautiful
cordia Barringtonia, and other trees ; it also
contained three houses, which were converted
into dwellings for his female* attendants. Of

• Females were looked upon as so polluting, that they
were never allowed to enter the sacred precincts; and
even the presence of the pigs in the enclosure was not
considered so dreadful a desecration as that of women.
G 2

84

FINAU AND TAUFAAHAU— MARRIAGE CEREMONY.

these the middle house was the smallest, but it
was the most complete and beautiful that could
have been erected with their means and ma
terials, and surpassed any structure I had seen
in the Pacific. I expressed my surprise to the
chief, that they should bestow such immense
labour in preparing so beautiful a residence for
such worthless objects. " It is true," he replied,
" they are worthless, they are pieces of wood,
they are devils ; but we were formerly in the
dark ; it is only lately that our hearts have been
made light in the knowledge of the true God.'
On observing five goddesses hanging by the
neck, I requested this intrepid chief to give
me one of them, which he immediately cut
down and presented to me. I have brought
it to England, with the very string around its
neck by which it was hung : and I prize it the
more highly, because it was one of the trophies
of the moral conquests of the Gospel, achieved
by Christians of another denomination. It
shows us, that God does not intend to convert
the world by any one section of his church, and
that by whomsoever the Gospel is preached in
simplicity and godly sincerity, the stamp of his
gracious approbation will be impressed in the
success which will crown their laborious and
devoted efforts.
After this truly wonderful man had given such
indubitable proofs of his sincerity, he despatched
a large war-canoe to Tonga, to fetch the de
voted Mr. and Mrs. Thomas ; who, committing
themselves to the gracious protection of Him
by whose love they were constrained, took an
affectionate leave of their brethren, stepped on
board the canoe, and cheerfully consented to
dwell alone, at a distance of 200 miles from
their brethren, and among a people just emerg
ing from barbarism. It is to my mind a most
interesting consideration, that the Missionary
who was to publish to them the glad tidings of
peace, was conveyed in a vessel which had often
been laden with sanguinary warriors, whom it
had carried to the deadly conflict.
Shortly after Mr Thomas's arrival, Finau,
having heard with deep regret that his relative
Taufaahau had renounced the religion of his
fathers, selected one of his largest and best war-
canoes, and sent it by one of his priests, as a
present, to induce him to return to the wor
ship of the gods. On receiving the message
this noble-spirited chief thus replied, " Tell Fi
nau, that I thank him for his present. You
may, however, drag it up on the beach, and cut
it up ; it will make excellent firewood ;" by
which he intimated, that however much he
valued the canoe, he considered it as so much
fuel, if the price by which it was to become his,
was to be a renunciation of the Gospel, and a
return to the worship he despised. By such
means, this interesting chieftain has gained,
through the blessing of God upon his wise and
resolute conduct, a most complete victory over
the superstitions of his people.
As no chapel had been erected, the chief had
given the largest building in tbe island to be
used for that purpose ; and although it would
accomodate several hundred persons, Mr. Tho

mas informed us, that the number which at
tended on the Sabbath preceding our arrival
was so great as not only to fill the house, but
also to form a large circle around it. The build
ing was formerly devoted to their dances and
other amusements; the drums, and other in
struments of merriment, were still hanging in
all direction s about the house.
At the time of our arrival at Lefuga, the na
tives were about to hold a most singular marriage
ceremony, for which preparations bad been
making upwards of twelve months. People from
all the adjacent islands were convened. Finau
also, with a large retinue, had come from Vavau ;
so that a formidable fleet of large double canoes,
most tastefully decorated with feathers and
shells, was anchored in state off the settlement.
Several others of equal dimensions had left
Tonga the day before we sailed ; but as they
had, native-like, loitered on the way, to get a
turtle in one place and a pig in another, we had
arrived and sailed again before they reached
their destination. The preparations for this
feast were certainly very great. In one en
closure which we passed, we saw at least a hun
dred large hogs, and in all parts of the settle
ment numbers of immense turtle were waiting
the day of destruction. On the arrival of Finau
and his followers from Vavau, seventy hogs, ten
large turtle, and a thousand yams were baked
for them. This was intended only as a small
repast to commence with. A luncheon upon
the same scale was in readiness for the Tonga
party when they should arrive. The occasion
of this feast was remarkable. 'Some time before,
Taufaahau had a- beautiful young woman, a sis
ter of Finau's wife, presented to him. They
had been living together for several months, al
though no marriage ceremony had been per
formed ; for the formal celebration of marriage
does not take place until months after it has
been consummated. In the present instance,
however, the chief bad determined to repudiate
her, and send her home. But as this would
have been deemed disgraceful to the wife, unless
the marriage ceremony had first been performed,
and as all such affairs are interwoven with the po
litics of the surrounding islands, the chief had
determined to counteract every ill feeling, by
the honour he would confer in the magnitude
of his preparations. We visited the young
woman upon whose account these arrangements
were made. She appeared about nineteen years
of age, of fine person, handsome features, and
agreeable manners. A pleasing pensiveness
was apparent in her looks and general deport
ment ; for the prospect of the marriage feast
appeared to have excited in her mind feelings
the opposite of those generally evinced by the
animated countenances of English ladies, on
the eve of keeping the marriage festival.
Polygamy prevailed to a great degree in the
whole of the Friendly Islands ; and in order to
overcome the evil, and show his people a good
example, this man of master-mind put away
all his wives, and remained single for a consi
derable time ; and when the desired effect was
produced, he selected one to whom he was pub-

SAIL FOR THE NAVIGATORS— TAMAFAINGA.

85

licly married. He has maintained a most
decided and consistent profession of Christi
anity, ever since he embraced it, and at the
present moment is one of the best and most
efficient local preachers in the mission. But
the last, though not the least display of noble-
mindedness and Christian principle, was the
circumstance of his emancipating all his slaves.
This he did, in consequence of having heard
from the Missionaries that slavery was incon
sistent with Christianity. I have been the more
minute in these observations, because I admire
the man, or rather, the grace of God in him.

CHAPTER XIX.
Sail for the Navigators — Fauea expresses his fears about
Tamafainga — Reach Savaii — Astonishment of tho
Natives at seeing Europeans — Tamafainga killed— Cha
racter of Fauea — Intercourse with the Natives — Most
favourable Reception — The "War— Malietoa — The
Author's narrow Escape.
We now again bent our course for the Navi
gators or Samoa Islands. Fauea, the chief, was
in high spirits, from the prospect of speedily
seeing his home, from which be had been so
long absent ; yet there appeared an expression
of great anxiety in his countenance. We had
not been long at sea, when he came and sat
himself down by my side, and said that he had
been thinking of the great work before us, and
although he had no doubt but that the chiefs
would gladly receive us, and the common people
all readily attend to Christian instruction, yet
there was a person at Samoa, called Tamafainga,
and if he opposed us, he feared that our efforts
would be impeded. I asked him who this
Tamafainga was ; when he informed me that
he was the man in whom the spirit of the gods
dwelt ; that he was the terror of all the inhabi
tants ; and that, if he forbadeit, the people univer
sally wouldbe afraid to place themselves under our
instruction. This was rather discouraging infor
mation ; we had, however, no alternative but to
proceed, looking to God alone for guidance,
protection, and success. We glided pleasantly
along for some little time, with a fair wind ;
but it soon became adverse, and we encountered,
for forty-eight hours a most furious storm, which
rent our sails, and crippled us exceedingly. An
influenza also broke out among our people,
which laid aside nearly all on board ; and it was
not until the seventh day after leaving Lefuga,
in the month of August, 1830, that the cloud-
capped mountains of the beautiful island of
Savaii, which is the largest of the Navigators
group, were descried. As the wind still blew
furiously, and all our people were ill, we deter
mined, if possible, to find an anchorage, and
ran to the leeward side of the island for the
purpose ; but could not succeed. As soon,
however, as we neared the shore, a num
ber of natives came off to us in their canoes,
of whom Fauea asked a variety of questions, to
all of which he received satisfactory answers.
At length, with a tremulous voice, as if afraid

to hear the reply, he said, " And where is
Tamafainga? "Oh!" shouted the people, with
evident delight, "he is dead, he is dead! He
was killed only about ten or twelve days ago '."
Frantic with joy at this unexpected intelligence,
Fauea leaped about the vessel, and ran towards
me, shouting, " Ua mate le Devolo, ua mate le
Devolo," &c. " The devil is dead, the devil is
dead! our work is done: the devil is dead!"
Astonished at this singular exclamation, I
inquired what he meant ; when he replied,
" The obstacle we dreaded is removed; Tama
fainga is dead ; they have killed him; the people
now will all receive the lotu." On hearing this
we could not be otherwise than deeply affected
with the seasonable interposition of a gracious
providence ; and we were encouraged to hope
that the time to favour the people, yea, the set
time was come. But here appears to me the
most remarkable feature in this providence.
Had this individual been put to death a month
or two prior to my arrival, time would have
been afforded for the chiefs of the various
districts and islands to have met, and nominated
a successor, who, from the nature of his office,
would of necessity have opposed our designs ;
but, as he had been killed only a few days,
there had been not sufficient time to convene a
meeting, and, consequently, there was no person
in possession of that important office.
From this intercourse we were convinced
that Fauea was really a chief ; for his countrymen
addressed him as such, the common people kissed
his hands, and the chiefs saluted him by rub
bing noses.
Finding ourselves sixty or eighty miles to
leeward of the residence of Malietoa, the prin
cipal chief of the settlement which we intended
to make our head-quarters, we had to beat
against a very strong wind ; and on Sabbath-
day, being thoroughly exhausted, our people all
ill, and our sails much torn, we determined, if
possible, to find an anchorage; and, for that
purpose, sailed into several bays, but without
success. At length we thought we had suc
ceeded, and dropped our anchor, hoping to
enjoy a quiet night, to rest ourselves and our
sick people, and, after employing a day or two
in repairing the damages which the vessel had
sustained in the gale, to prosecute our voyage.
As soon as the anchor was dropped, a number
of natives came off to us, bringing with them
females, and articles for barter. Fauea informed
them that, as ours was e vaa lotu, a praying
ship, women would not be received ; and that,
as it was le aso sa, a sacred day, they must bring
off food, and other articles for sale, in the morn
ing. This was to them extraordinary informa
tion. Fauea, however, gave them to under
stand who we were, and what was the object
of our visit; and, having gathered them in a
circle around him, on the quarter-deck of our
little ship, he informed them of the number of
islands which had become Christian, naming
Tahiti, Rarotonga, Tongatabu, and others ; and
then specified some of the advantages which the
inhabitants of those islands were deriving from
the introduction of this new religion :— to all

86

THE CHARACTER OF FAUEA.

which they listened with great interest, and ex
pressed considerable pleasure at the prospect of
being instructed, especially if by so doing an end
would be put to their fearful wars. " Can the
religion of these wonderful papalangis * be any
thing but wise and goodl" said our friend to
his naked countrymen, who by this time had
filled the deck, and who, with outstretched
necks and gaping mouths, were eagerly catch
ing the words as they fell from his lips : " Let
us look at them, and then look at ourselves ;
their heads are covered, while ours are exposed
to the heat of the sun, and the wet of the rain ;
their bodies are clothed all over with beautiful
cloth, while we have nothing but a bandage of
leaves around our waist ; they have clothes upon
their very feet, while ours are like the dogs' ; —
and then look at their axes, their scissors, and
their other property, how rich they are!" They
all appeared to understand and appreciate this
reasoning, and gazed on us with great interest and
surprise. Some of them then began to examine
the different parts of our dress, when, not
meeting, with any repulse, one pulled off my
shoe. Startled at the appearance of the foot
with the stocking on, he whispered to Fauea,
" What extraordinary people these papalangis
are ; they have no toes as we have !" " Oh !"
said our facetious friend, " did I not tell you
that they had clothes upon their feet ^ feel them,
and you will find that they have toes as well as
ourselves." On finding out the secret, he was
exceedingly delighted, and began chattering
away to his countrymen about tbe wonderful
discovery he had made. All of them came round
us, and in a moment the other shoe was off, and
both my own feet, and those of my excellent
brother, underwent a thorough examination.
After coming to an anchor, we had sent tbe
teachers, their wives and families, with all our
sick people, on shore. The chief of the
bay received them with kindness, and sup
plied them with some food. A crowd, greater
than that which surrounded us, collected about
them, and the wife of Fauea was equally dili
gent with her husband in describing to the
natives the wonders she had seen, and the value
of the religion now brought to their islands.
When the food was spread ' out, she stood up
herself, and asked a blessing in an audible voice,
in the presence of the assembled multitude. In
the midst of all this interesting work, om- vessel
dragged her anchor, and we were driven to sea,
with about forty fathoms of chain out, so that
we were compelled, most reluctantly, to send
the boat immediately and bring our people off
again. After several hours of hard labour, we
succeeded in hoisting in both chain and anchor.
As the wind moderated during the night, we
made considerable progress, and on Tuesday
morning we found ourselves in the straits,
between two of the largest and most beautiful
islands we had yet beheld, having on the one
side Savaii, being two hundred and fifty miles
in circumference, and on the other Upolu,
which is about two hundred. At the mouth
of the straits, which are six or eight miles wide,
• Foreigners.

are two small islands. One of these, called
Aborima, is a huge rock, about two miles in
circumference, and two or three hundred feet
in height : the other, a beautiful little spot,
called Manono, is the residence of chiefs and
distinguished persons. It is exceedingly fertile,
and clothed with the richest verdure ; but as I
propose to give a geographical description of
all the islands of this group in the account of
my next voyage, I shall abstain from further
remarks on that subject in this part of the
narrative. By ten o'clock we reached the settlement of
Sapapalii, where we intended to commence our
labours, and to which Fauea belonged. In all
our conversations with that individual, we were
impressed with his intelligence, shrewdness,
and good sense, but never more so than on the
morning we arrived at the place of our desti
nation, when he led us to a private part of the
vessel, and requested us to desire the teachers
not to commence their labours among his coun
trymen by condemning their canoe-races, their
dances, and other amusements, to which they
were much attached, lest, in the very onset, they
should conceive a dislike to the religion which
imposed such restraints. " Tell them," said
he, " to be diligent in teaching the people, to
make them wise, and then their hearts will be
afraid, and they themselves will put away that
which is evil. Let the ' Word' prevail, and get
a firm hold upon them, and then we may with
safety adopt measures, which at first would
prove injurious." Thus we were constrained
to admire the goodness of God, in providentially
bringing to us an individual whose character
and connexions so admirably fitted him to ad
vance the objects we had in view.
Our vessel was soon surrounded by canoes,
and the deck crowded with natives, who were
so agile, that they climbed like monkeys, over
our boarding nettings, although these were ten
feet in depth. At length we welcomed on
board Tamalelangi, son of the skies, the brother
of Malietoa, the principal chief of Sapapalii,
and relative of Fauea. After the usual salu
tations, we requested Fauea to state to his re
lative the object of our visit, and also our wish
immediately to land our people, with their wives
and families, many of whom were suffering
severely from long confinement in the vessel.
A consultation was then held by the chiefs as
to what should be done, when it was determined
to send forthwith a messenger to Upolu, the
seat of war, to inform Malietoa of our arrival,
and to request his presence as soon as possible.
It was also arranged that the teachers and Fauea
should accompany Tamalelangi to the shore,
and return on the foUowing morning, if every
thing was favourable, for their families and
property. A canoe was accordingly despatched
to Upolu for Malietoa, and the teachers accom
panied his brother to the settlement. The
pleasing prospect of accomplishing the object of
our voyage excited feelings of the liveliest gra
titude, and we followed our friends with fervent
prayer that God would graciously allow us to
realize all the bright anticipations which the

CAUSE OF THE WAR.

87

occurrences of that eventful day had led us to
indulge. An interesting incident occurred in the course
of the day, which gave us rather an exalted
idea of the character of the people. Tamale
langi and his brother, not knowing who we were,
had brought off some pigs, bananas, and cocoa-
nuts for sale : but, on seeing his relative Fauea,
and on being informed of the kindness he had
received from us, and the object of our visit, he
ordered the pigs, with everything in his canoes,
to be arranged on the deck, and then, presenting
them to us, stated, that had they known us,

they should not have brought off anything for
sale ; and that in the morning they would bring
a more abundant supply. Every canoe around
the ship followed his example.
Our wishes were realized, and a full reward
for all our perplexity, anxiety, and toil was
granted, when early on the following morning,
the teachers returned from the shore accompa
nied by tbe noble young chief, and about fifty-
canoes. They gave us the most flattering account
of their reception, and seemed elated beyond
measure with the prospect of success. In about
two hours, the eight teachers, five women, and

ten children, took their property with them
and left the vessel grateful and rejoicing. The
poor heathen were as much delighted as them
selves. Thus auspiciously, in the month of
August, 1830, was thjs important mission com
menced. As we were expecting Malietoa from Upolu,
we could not accompany the teachers, but pro
mised to follow them either in the evening, or
on the following morning. While we were en
gaged in lading the canoes, our attention was
arrested by observing the mountains on the
opposite shore enveloped in flames and smoke ;
and, when we inquired the cause of it, were in
formed that a battle had been fought that very
morning, and that the flames which we saw were
consuming the houses, the plantations, and the
bodies of the women, children, and infirm people
who had fallen into the hands of their sanguin
ary conquerors. Thus, while we were landing
the messengers of the Gospel of peace on the
one shore, the flames of a devastating war were
blazing on the opposite ; and under these strik
ing circumstances was this interesting mission
commenced. This disastrous war was occasioned by the
death of Tamafainga ; for although all parties
heartily rejoiced at the event, yet as he was re
lated to the most influential families in the is
lands, they were bound, hy the custom of the
country, to avenge it. Several skirmishes had
already taken place, and a general and terrible

encounter was expected in a few days. It ap
peared that the people of Upolu, wearied with
the outrages and oppressions of this tyrannical
monster, whose rapacious grasp neither wives,
daughters, nor property escaped, who had power
of life and death, and who was actually wor
shipped as a god, had waylaid and murdered
him. About four o'clock in the afternoon, in a
heavy shower of rain, the celebrated old chief
tain Malietoa arrived. He appeared about sixty-
five years of age, stout, active, and of command
ing aspect. Fauea saluted him with the greatest
possible respect, bowing sufficiently low to kiss
his feet, and making his child kiss even the soles
of his feet. He was immediately invited into
the cabin ; and, having no clothing except the
girdle of ^'-leaves worn by the people generally,
and being excessively cold and wet, we gave him
a large piece of Tahitian cloth, in which he
wrapped himself, and with which he appeared
much pleased. We then stated cur object to
him. With this he professed to be highly de
lighted, and said that he had heard of the lotu,
and, being desirous of instruction, was truly glad
that we had come to impart it. We expressed
our deep regret at finding him engaged in so
sanguinary a war, and inquired whether these
differences could not be settled amicably, and
the dreadful contest terminated. He replied,
that as a person related to himself, and to all the
principal chiefs, had been killed, they must

THE AUTHOR'S NARROW ESCAPE— LANDING AT SAPAPALII.

avenge his death ; and that if he left the war
unfinished, and his enemies unsubdued, he
should be degraded in the estimation of his
countrymen as long as he lived; but he pro
mised that he would take care there should be
no more wars after the present ; and that, as
soon as it was terminated, he would come and
place himself under the instruction ofthe teachers.
He informed us that he had met the enemy
early in the morning, when an encounter ensued,
in which he drove them into the mountains,
burnt their houses, and desolated their planta
tions, the destructive blaze of which we had
seen, while, assisted by Tamalelangi, we were
landing the Missionaries on the opposite shore.
How differently were these two brothers em
ployed at the same moment — the one, with his
ferocious warriors dealing misery and destruc
tion upon the objects of their savage vengeance
— the other, with his delighted people, convey
ing to their shores, with expressions of frantic
joy, those who would teach them the principles,
and impart to them the blessings, of the Gospel
of peace ! We advanced every argument we
could command to induce the old chieftain to
make peace ; but he persisted in declaring that
he could not do otherwise than prosecute the
war until he had conquered his enemies. We
then made him a present of two strings of large
blue beads, which the natives prize above every
other article, an axe, a chisel, a knife, and some
Tahitian cloth, after which he took his leave,
promising to come off in the morning, with his
largest and best canoe, to convey us on shore.
While Malietoa was on board a circumstance
occurred, which from that moment to the pre
sent, I have never thought of but with mingled
feelings of horror and gratitude. The natives,
heathen-like, had surrounded our vessel, with
great clamour, and climbing over the boarding-
nettings, very soon filled the ship. This had
excited in the young man I had as captain some
apprehension, and, unknown to me, he loaded
a small brass blunderbuss with eight bullets,
and returned it to its usual place. The old
chief perceiving this weapon, and thinking it
would materially assist him in the conquest of
his enemies, took it down, and began to ex
amine it. He cocked it, with its muzzle di
rected towards myself, and was just about to
pull the trigger, when John Wright, our in
terpreter, said " stop, perhaps it is loaded."
At this moment the captain rushed from the
deck into the cabin, and exclaimed, " Oh, Sir,
you have nearly been blown to atoms ! why did
you let the chief touch that blunderbuss? I
have just loaded it with eight bullets ! " Thus
have I been preserved from dangers and from
death, by sea and by land, some designed, and
some otherwise : but both from the one and the
other has a gracious Providence protected me.
During the night our vessel was drifted by
the current to a distance from the settlement so
considerable, that in the morning we were
entirely out of sight, and Malietoa, could not, in
consequence, perforin his promise of fetching
us. Supposmg the distance not above ten or
twelve miles, and it being a dead calm, we

determined to go on shore in our. own boat.
But we erred in our estimate ; and, although
we left the vessel at between nine and ten
o'clock in the morning, it was past eight in the
evening when we landed. Providentially, it
remained calm until we were within two or
three miles of the shore, or we could not have
reached it, as all our crew were ill. Mr. Barff
and myself were compelled to tug at the oar
during several hours ; besides which, in the
severe gale we had encountered, something had
fallen upon the boat, and made her so leaky,
that it was with difficulty we could keep her
above water. Being seen from the shore before
sunset, Malietoa despatched a canoe to our as
sistance, which conducted us to the landing
place. An immense crowd had assembled to
witness, I believe, the very first Englishmen
who set foot upon their, shores. What an ad
vantage it would have been to the pagan abori
gines of every country, if the first civilized
beings by whom they were visited had gone on
the same errand of mercy, and conveyed to them
the same blessings which it was our object to
impart to this interesting people !
The scene which presented itself on our
landing was unique and most remarkable. The
natives had kindled a large fire to serve as a
beacon, and multitudes had supplied themselves
with torches of dry cocoa-nut and other leaves,
to conduct us to the chief's dwelling. A pas
sage was opened for us through tbe dense
crowd, who were kept in order by a sort of
native police, armed with spears and clubs, and
stationed there for the purpose ; and, though
we compassionated the unlucky sufferers, we
were not a little amused to witness the severe
blows which were occasionally dealt out by
these officials upon the thick craniums of all
who transgressed their orders. In the mean
time, some were busily employed in supplying
the fire ; some in conveying various articles
from the boat ; others in carrying them to our
lodgings ; whilst a crowd, anxious to testify
their good feeling, as soon as orders were given,
rushed into the water to haul up the boat. The
majority, however, had enough to do to gaze
upon the wonderful strangers, and for this pur
pose they climbed the cocoa-nut and other trees,
upon the trunks. and branches of which they
were seen in clusters, by the red flare of the
fire and the torches, peeping with glistening
eyes and wondering look from amongst the rich
dark foliage which surrounded them.
In these circumstances we proceeded to pay
our respects to Malietoa. Mr. Barff and my
self had each a guard of honour, nor did we
meet again until we arrived at the chief's
residence. The natives vied with each other
to show us every possible attention, some by
carrying flambeaux, while others with their
formidable weapons kept all intruders at a re
spectful distance. As we were walking along,
having intimated to the young chief that I
was exceedingly fatigued from labouring the
whole day in the boat, he uttered something to
his people, and in an instant a number of stout
fellows seized me, some by my legs, and others

KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES— INTERESTING MEETING.

89

by my arms, one placing his hand under my
body, another, unable to obtain so large a
space, poking a finger against me, and thus,
sprawling at full length upon their extended
arms and hands, I was carried a distance of
half a mile, and deposited safely and carefully
in the presence of the chief and his principal
wife, who, seated on a fine mat, received us
with all the etiquette of heathen royalty. A
beautiful mat having been spread for us, we
squatted down upon it, and stated to his ma
jesty that we had not come to transact business
with him then, but simply to pay our respects
before we retired to rest. He expressed him
self pleased to see us, gave us a cordial welcome
to the shores of Savaii, and requested that we
would take up our abode at his house ; but, as
our people were so unwell, and our stay would
be short, we begged to be allowed, while we
remained, to reside with them. On going from
the house of Malietoa to that allotted by his
brother for the residence of the teachers, we
passed a dancing-house, in which a number of
performers were entertaining a large company
of spectators. On looking in, we observed two
persons drumming on an instrument formed of
a mat wound tight round a framework of reeds,
and six young men, and two young women
jumping about with great violence, and making
motions with their hands and feet in time with
the drummers, while others contributed to the
rude harmony by singing a song in honour of
the arrival of " the two great English chiefs."
We saw nothing bordering upon indecency in
the performance, which, however, required so
much exertion, that the bodies of both the males
and females were streaming with perspiration.
On arriving at the teachers' residence, we
were grieved to find most of them suffering
from influenza. Two of these we bled, and
administered to others such medicines, as we
thought would afford them relief. They were
delighted with the treatment they had received
from the people generally, and with the cir
cumstance that, although their property had
been distributed in many different canoes, and
conveyed from them by various hands, not a
single article was missing. At first, indeed,
the teachers had endured considerable appre
hension about their children, some of whom
were not brought to them until several hours
after their arrival. Upon inquiry, however,
they found that those natives who had been so
fortunate as to obtain a child to bring on shore,
instead of carrying it direct to its parents, first
took it to their own residence, killed a pig, pre
pared an oven of food, gave the child a thorough
good " feeding" ofthe best they could procure,
and, having kept it as long as they dared, brought
it to the anxious parents. All this was most
delightful intelligence, and our hearts must have
been insensible indeed if it had not excited
feelings of the liveliest gratitude.
The teachers' wives prepared for us a cup of
'tea, the very first ever made on the island of
Savaii ; and, after family prayer, they screened
off an apartment with native cloth, where we
stretched our weary limbs upon our mats, and,

using a bundle of dried grass for a pillow, closed
our eyes in sleep, thankful to God for having
prospered our way far beyond our most sanguine
expectations.

CHAPTER XX.

An interesting Meeting-rlnterchange of Presents — Cere
monies observed on the occasion — A display of noble
feeling between the two Brothers— A newly purchased
Bride — Marriage Ceremony — Female Degradation —
Matetau — His Person — His desire for a Missionary —
Remarks — Fauea' s Character.
Malietoa, being anxious that four of the teach
ers should take up their abode with him, had
sent repeated messages on the preceding day to
that effect ; to which our people replied, that,
as we were expected on shore very shortly, they
wished to defer a removal until we arrived. On
being informed of this, we determined to place
four of the teachers under his care, and to give
the others in charge to his brother, who brought
them on shore. Having made this arrangement,
we thought it advisable to divide the present
we intended to make into two equal parts : the
one for the elder, the other for the younger bro
ther. This consisted of one red and one white
shirt, six or eight yards of English print, three
axes, three hatchets, a few strings of sky-blue
beads, some knives, two or three pairs of scis
sors, a , few small looking-glasses, hammei s,
chisels, gimlets, fish-hooks, and some nails.
Everything being prepared, we proceeded to
the chief's large dancing-house, where we found
a great concourse of people waiting to witness
this important interview with le alii papalangi,
or the English kings.
On our arrival being announced, Malietoa
sent two of his own daughters to spread mats
for us to sit upon. They were fine-looking
young women, about eighteen and twenty years
of age, wearing a beautiful mat about the waist,
a wreath of flowers as a head-dress, and a string
of blue beads around the neck. The upper part
of their person was uncovered, and anointed
rather profusely with scented cocoa-nut oil.
As soon as we had taken our seats Malietoa
made his appearance, bringing in his hands two
beautiful mats, and a large piece of native cloth,
one end of which was wrapped round him and
the other formed a train which an elderly female
bore lightly from the ground. Having placed
these with the usual ceremony at my feet, he
returned, and shortly after came in the same
manner, and laid similar articles at the feet of
my colleague. He then took his seat opposite
to us, the people having formed a circle around
us ; and, in the first place, we thanked him for
his present, but added, that to obtain his pro
perty was not the object of our visit ; for we
had come exclusively to bring him and his
people the knowledge of the true God, and to
place on their island persons to teach them the
way of salvation ; and we now wished to know
whether he was willing that they should re
main, and whether he would allow his people
to be instructed % He replied that he was truly
thankful to us for coining, and that !..e would

90

INTERESTING MEETING— NATIVE GENEROSITY.

receive the teachers, and treat them with kind
ness. We then explicitly inquired whether he
and, his people would consent to be instructed,
or whether there would be any obstruction
throw in the way % To this he made answer,
" I and my people must now go over to Opolu
to the war : but immediately after my return I
will become a worshipper of Jehovah, and
place myself under the instruction of the teach
ers. In the mean time this house * is yours
as a temporary place in which to teach and
worship ; and when we come from the war we
will erect any building you may require, and
all the people who remain at home can come
to-morrow, if they please, and begin to learn
about Jehovah and Jesus Christ."
After these assurances, we informed the chief
that we should place our people under the
special protection of himself and his brother,
and expected that he would preserve the teach
ers' wives from insult, and their property
from pillage. This both of them most readily
promised to do. Malietoa then requested that
four of the teachers might be directed to come and
reside with him, and the others to remain with
his brother ; and, having promptly consented
to this, he pointed out two houses which he
intended to present to them for their residence,
and said, if they desired it, they could have
another. We then informed him that either
Mr. Barff or myself would endeavour to visit
them again in ten or twelve months, and, if we
found that he had fulfilled his promises, English
Missionaries would come to carry on the work,
which those now settled among them might
commence. We then desired one of our people to open a
basket, and place before the two chiefs the
articles we had brought as a present. The
scene that followed both amused and delighted
us ; for, as soon as the articles were laid out,
the chief took up first an axe, and, placing
it upon his head, exclaimed, " Faafetai le toi
tele;" " Thank you for this large axe;" and,
having observed the same ceremony with every
other article, he concluded by saying, " Thank
you for all, thank you for all." He then said
that, delighted as he was with his valuable pre
sent, he thought far more of us than of our gift ;
that, though he was always a great man, yet he
felt himself a greater man that day than ever he
was before, because two great English chiefs had
come to form his acquaintance, and bring him
good. " This," continued the delighted chief
tain, "is the happiest day of my life, and I
rejoice that I have lived to see it. In future I
shall consider ourselves and you as ainga tasi,
one family, and hope you will do the same."
Just at this moment our attention was arrested
by an incident, in which a nobleness of feeling
was displayed by the two chiefs, that gave us an
exalted idea of their general character, and such
as we could scarcely have expected to find
among a people who had been represented as
* The house in which we were assembled, and which
was the largest building in the settlement, was a kind of
public property, in which all business was transacted and
their dances and amusements of various kinds performed.

in so savage a state. After our presents were
laid before Malietoa and his brother Tamale
langi, the latter examined the articles minutely,
took out a knife and gave it to his son, and a
looking-glass and a pair of scissors to each of
his wives ; and then, having replaced the whole
of the other articles in the basket, he laid them
down in the presence of his elder brother,
Malietoa, and said, "I was not aware that a
distinct present would have been given to me.
I expected that all would have been yours.
Allow me, therefore, to pass all over to you:
you are my elder brother, and I shall be pleased
at receiving whatever you think well to give me."
Malietoa was evidently gratified with this mark
of respect shown to him in the presence of such
an assemblage ; but with a noble disinterested
ness, equal to that evinced by his brother, he
replied, " No, brother; these alii papalangi,
English kings, have given it to you ; it is all
yours, and you must keep it."
At the close of this important and interesting
interview, Malietoa informed his people, who
had been gazing with wonder upon the novel
proceedings, that a large quantity of valuable
property had been given to him, and that the
English chiefs, to whom he was indebted for it,
would want something to eat on their return ;
"for," said he, "there are no pigs running about
upon the sea, neither is there any bread-fruit
growing there." Upon hearing this, the whole
company instantly arose and scampered away ;
and in about an hour they returned, bringing
with them fifteen pigs of various sizes, with a
large quantity of bread-fruit, yams, and other
vegetables, the whole of which the chief pre
sented to us, and observed, that it would have
been much more but for the war, during which
everything was quickly consumed. Immediately
after this he sent for the teachers, four of whom,
with their wives and families, took up their re
sidence with him ; the other four remained with
his brother.
We spent the evening of the day with the
teachers in prayer and conversation, and were
much pleased with the spirit they evinced. We
endeavoured to impress upon them the advan
tage of being of one heart and one mind in their
great work, particularly cautioning them against
little petty jealousies, and everything that had
the appearance of two parties. We advised
them, if the chiefs wished to build two places
of worship, to use every effort to induce them
to unite in erecting one only, in some central
spot ; but, should they persist in having two,
we recommended them to assist in the erection
of both, and to interchange every Sabbath day
in conducting the worship, that nothing having
the semblance of opposite interests, or identifi
cation with either party, might be apparent.
They all saw the propriety of this advice, and
promised to act in accordance with it. This
cannot be impressed too powerfully upon the
minds of Missionaries. Those petty jealousies,
which sometimes exist in the hearts of truly-
good men, are much to be deplored ; they mar
their comfort, and are as a millstone around the
neck of their usefulness.

KIND PROPOSAL— A NEWLY-PURCHASED BRIDE.

91

Gratified with the events of the day, and
thankful to God for having so abundantly pros
pered our undertaking, we once more stretched
our weary limbs upon our mats ; but our rest
was much disturbed by a company of warriors,
who had just arrived from some other parts of
the island, and who kept up a rude and noisy
dance, to still ruder music, during the whole of
the night.
Early the next morning, Malietoa sent a mes
senger, requesting us to come to his house. We
immediately obeyed the summons, and found
his majesty seated upon the pavement which
surrounded his residence. A mat being spread
for us, we sat down, and inquired the business
for which we were summoned ; when he replied
that, having been informed that our water-casks
were empty, as it would be inconvenient to fill
them at his settlement, where there was no safe
anchorage, he wished to acquaint us that there
was a fine harbour at Upolu, where we could
obtain, with ease, as much water as we required.
We thanked him for his information ; but inti
mated that, as it was the seat of war, we might
be exposed, to danger from both parties, for, at
the islands with which we were acquainted, it
was a common thing to strip a friend of all that
he possessed, to prevent his property from fall
ing into the hands of his enemies, and this also
might be their practice. He replied, there was
no danger, and that he himself would go to
protect us, and assist in procuring all that we
wanted, but that we must wait a day or two, as
he could not possibly accompany us immedi
ately. It being rather an unusual thing with
natives to have any very pressing engagements
to prevent their prompt attention, to any object
they had in view, we were anxious to learn the
cause of the delay ; when we were informed
that he had sent some axes and other things,
which we had given him, to purchase a hand
some young wife, who had just arrived, and that
the ceremony of marriage was now about to
commence. A group of women, seated under
the shade of a noble tree which stood at a short
distance from the house, chanted, in a pleasing
and lively air, the heroic deeds of the old chief
tain and his ancestors ; and opposite to them,
beneath the spreading branches of a bread-fruit
tree, sat the newly-purchased bride, a tall and
beautiful young woman, about eighteen years of
age. Her dress was a fine mat, fastened round
the waist, reaching nearly to her ankles ; while
a wreath of leaves and flowers, ingeniously and
tastefully entwined, decorated her brow. The
upper part of her person was anointed with
sweet-scented cocoa-nut oil, and tinged partially
with a rouge prepared from the turmeric-root,
and round her neck were two rows of large
blue beads. Her whole deportment was pleas
ingly modest. While listening to the chanters,
and looking upon the novel scene before us, our
attention was attracted by another company of
women, who were following each other in single
file, and chanting as they came the praises of
their chief. Sitting down with the company
who had preceded them, they united in one
general chorus, which appeared to be a recital

of the valorous deeds of Malietoa and his pro
genitors. This ended, a dance in honour of the
marriage was commenced, which was considered
one of their grandest exhibitions, and held in
high estimation by the people. The performers
were four young women, all daughters of chiefs
of the highest rank, who took their stations at
right angles on the fine mats with which the
dancing-room was spread for the occasion, and
then interchanged positions with slow and grace
ful movements, both of their hands and feet,
while the bride recited some of the mighty do
ings of her forefathers. To the motions of the
dancers, and to the recital of the bride, three
or four elderly women were beating time upon
the mat with short sticks, and occasionally join
ing in chorus with the recitative. We saw
nothing in the performance worthy of admira
tion, except the absence of everything indelicate
— a rare omission in heathen amusements. We
were informed that most of the wives of the
principal chiefs were purchased ; and that, if a
sufficient price is paid to the relatives, the young
woman seldom refuses to go, though the pur
chaser be ever so old and unlovely. I prayed
that, by the blessing of God upon our labours,
the day might speedily arrive when these in
teresting females should be elevated from this
terrible degradation, and, by the benign influ
ence of Christianity, be raised to the dignity of
companionship with their husbands, and occupy
that station in the social and domestic circle
which the females of Tahiti, Rarotonga, and
other islands, have attained since the introduc
tion of the Gospel.
As I purpose, at the conclusion of the Nar
rative, to give a geographical description of the
islands, together with an account of some of the
remarkable usages of the people, I shall defer
noticing many other interesting incidents, which
occurred at this period, till I come to speak
upon those topics.
Having now accomplished all we could, we
thought of our beloved wives and children at
home, and prepared for our departure. After
commending our friends to the gracious protec
tion of God, and supplicating his special bless
ing upon their labours, we walked down to the
beach, accompanied by the teachers, their wives
and children, who wept bitterly at parting from
us. Some of them had been members of our
churches eight or ten years, had acted consist
ently, and had thus proved themselves worthy
of our esteem. Many hundreds also of the
natives crowded round us, by all of whom we
were treated with the greatest possible respect,
and these rent the air with their affectionate
salutations, exclaiming, Ole alofa i le alii,
" Great is our affection for you English chiefs."
Matetau, the chief of the neighbouring island
of Manono, having come to see us, we were
desirous of showing him respect by making him
a present, and therefore requested hirn to ac
company us to the vessel. He was described
as equal in rank, and superior in war, to Malie
toa. This we could easily believe, for he was
one of the largest and most powerful men I
ever saw. His muscular and bony frame brought

92

MATETAU DESIRES TO HAVE A MISSIONARY.

forcibly to our minds him of ancient fame,
" the shaft of whose spear was like the weaver's
beam." Men of ordinary size would be as
grasshoppers in his hand. This chief spent a
day and a night with us, and was exceedingly
urgent that we should give him a teacher, and
pressed his claim by assuring me that he would
feed him, and place himself under his instruc
tion, and make all his people do the same.
Having no teacher left, I satisfied him by pro
mising that on my next visit I would bring him
one ; but, as he had observed, by way of inducing
me to do so, that he would make his people
place themselves under his instruction, I thought
it advisable at once to tell him that he must
not force them, contrary to their own wishes,
but, having set them the example himself, and
exhorted them to follow it, then to leave them
to their own convictions and inclinations ;
but the employment of any kind of coercion to
induce men to become Christians was contrary
to the principles of our religion.
Arriving off the beautiful little island of Ma
nono, we presented our gigantic guest with two
axes, two hatchets, four knives, two pairs of
scissors, a small looking-glass, and some blue
beads ; ou receiving which, he seized us by the
head, gave us a hearty rub with his nose, leaped
hastily into his canoe, and sailed away, highly
delighted with his present, and not less so with
the prospect of having a teacher to instruct him.
By the unexpected return of his canoe, we per
ceived that the reason of his hasty departure
was to express his gratitude by bringing us
some food for our long voyage. While Matetau
was on board the second time, we perceived the
canoe of Malietoa paddling towards us, on the
prow of which was seated the newly-purchased
bride. We instantly backed our sails, and
waited tbe approach of the illustrious pair. On
coming on board, Malietoa informed us that he
was going to the war, which he would conclude
as soon as possible, and return to Sapapalii, and
that be was taking his new wife with him, lest
she should run away home again during his
absence, in which case he should have to re-pur
chase her.
The meeting again of these two chiefs on
board our vessel relieved us from great per
plexity, for the influenza, with which our people
had all been so dreadfully afflicted, had proved
fatal to one of our number, who was then lying
dead. Being so near land, we did not like to
bury the body in the sea, and we were appre
hensive of taking it to the shore, lest, sliould
any disease break out among the natives, it
might be attributed to this circumstance, and
excite their superstitious fears. On stating to
the chiefs our perplexity, Malietoa relieved us,
by proposing to convey the corpse to a small
island, about half a mile from the main land,
and have it interred there.
The person who had died was deformed, and
we have invariably found that severe colds and
influenza are particularly fatal to such people.
He had been in my employ for several years,
and I have good reason to believe that, although
of a hasty temper, he both knew and loved the

truth. I regretted not being with him in his
last hours, that I might have known the state of
his mind, and administered to him the consola
tions of the Gospel. It is, however, a matter
of joy and satisfaction to every child of God to
be assured, that neither his own eternal felicity,
nor that of departed friends, depends upon a
happy death, but upon a holy life.
Having thus given a brief and hasty account
of the principal events which occurred during
our first voyage to the Navigators and Samoa
Islands, it may neither be uninteresting nor
unprofitable to pause, and erect an Ebenezer of
praise to that God who protected our lives, di
rected our course, and opened before us so
" great and effectual a door : " thus permitting
us to realize more than the full accomplishment
of our most sanguine expectations. We scarcely
expected to secure any more than a safe and
peaceable settlement for our teachers ; and even
that had not been obtained on the first visit at
any other islands where Missionaries had been
previously established. In some places, indeed,
the teachers landed at the peril of their lives ;
and in almost all the Hervey Islands they were
plundered and ill used ; while here they were
welcomed with open arms, both by chiefs and
people, who vied with each other in expressions
of kindness and delight. Instead of losing their
property, four excellent dwellings were given
to them, and the very best and largest house in
the settlement was set apart for public worship
and instruction. In addition to this, we our
selves were permitted to land in safety, and to
live amongst the people, not only without mo
lestation and dread, but distinguished by every
mark of their attention and respect, and impor
tuned by neighbouring chiefs to furnish them
also with Missionaries. Thus auspiciously was
this interesting and important mission com
menced, through the merciful interposition of
an overruling Providence, who is pleased to
make use of human instrumentality in accom
plishing his mightiest works. No doubt, much
of this success was attributable, under God, to
Fauea, with whom we met so providentially,
and who was so admirably adapted to further
our important embassy. His relationship to
the principal chiefs was a circumstance of no
small moment, for it was almost certain that,
had we not met with him, we should not have
gone to the place we did, and of course should
not have known Malietoa. He was a man of
great decision, and not easily diverted from his
purpose. Having once expressed my fear lest
Malietoa and his countrymen should not receive
the teachers, he replied, " If they do not receive
them kindly and treat them well, I will go to
a strange land and die there." Fauea also pos
sessed such soundness of judgment and fluency
of speech as would rivet the attention of listen
ing multitudes for hours together, and always
secure him the victory in a dispute. After
reaching bis home, he and his wife were con
stantly engaged in describing the triumphs of
the Gospel at Tongatabu, where Tupou, the
greatest chief in the island, had embraced it,
and at the Hapai Islands, where all the people

REMARKS— ARRIVAL AT RARATONGA.

93

had become Christians. Facts, so well attested
and so forcibly described, had immense weight
with the natives. Of this we had an interesting
proof. When they were told by him, that those
who had embraced this religion could commu
nicate their thoughts to each other at a distance,
and while residing even at a remote island, they
flocked to the teachers' houses to learn this
mysterious art, many of them coming eight or
ten times each day, to be taught their letters.
We considered that Fauea's wife possessed
more principle than her husband, who was an
ambitious and aspiring man, and evidently pro
moted our designs, chiefly on account of the
temporal advantages which would result from
the introduction of Christianity among his peo
ple. He had also penetration enough to see
that his family would be raised in the estimation
of his countrymen, by forming an intimacy with
English chiefs ; and that his own name would
be transmitted to posterity as the person who
conducted the Missionaries to their islands. But
whatever his motives and character might have
been, his zealous and unceasing endeavours
eminently forwarded our designs. All these
circumstances considered, we cannot but con
clude, that, in first going to Tongatabu, we were
led by an unerring hand, and that our meeting
unexpectedly with such an efficient assistant as
Fauea, was a remarkable and interesting inti
mation of Providence that the set time for God
to accomplish his purposes of mercy to the Sa
moa islanders was come. There are two little
words in our language which I always admired,
try, and trust. You know not what you can or
cannot effect, until you try; and if you make
your trials in the exercise of trust in God,
mountains of imaginary difficulties will vanish
as you approach them, and facilities will be af
forded which you never anticipated !

CHAPTER XXI.

Compelled by contrary wind to leave Savage Island —
Arrival at Rarotonga— Visit to Arorangi— Beauty of the
Settlement — Arrival at Rurutu — Incidents there — Ar
rival at Tahiti — Visit to Afareaitu — Meeting there — •
Vara's Character and Death— Me— The Warrior and
the Drop of Blood.
Leaving the Samoa group, we directed our
course to Savage Island, for the purpose of
landing the two young men whom we had
taken away, and who, though now reconciled
to us, were exceedingly anxious to return. Very
favourable impressions had been made on one of
them, but the other resisted every effort to in
struct him. Much to our discomfit, we were so
baffled by calms and light winds, that we were
a fortnight in sailing three hundred miles ! In
consequence of this unexpected detention, our
provisions and water began to run short, and
having to perform a voyage of eighteen hundred
miles against the prevailing wind, we were com -
polled to take advantage of a favourable breeze
which sprang up, and abandon our intention of
visiting Savage Island.
The two youths were a little disappointed at
not being conveyed home, but when I informed

them that, by accompanying us to Raiatea, they
would receive some valuable presents, they rea
dily acceded to our proposal.
A few months after our return home, the
Messenger of Peace was engaged to convey Mr.
and Mrs. Crook and family to New SouthWales,
and the two youths were committed to their
care, and by them safely landed on the shores
of their own benighted island. As I had no
opportunity of visiting them again previous to
my embarkation for England, I am not aware
of the effect their visit has produced upon their
savage countrymen.
Hoping that our favourable wind would con
tinue, we steered for Rarotonga, which we hap
pily reached in seven days, having sailed in that
time a distance of eight hundred miles due east:
an extraordinary occurrence in those latitudes,
where the trade wind, with few variations, pre
vails from the eastward. On arriving off Aro
rangi, the settlement of which Papeiha had the
charge, we passed close to the shore, and were
truly glad to perceive, from the multitude as
sembled on the sandy beach to greet us as we
passed, that " the plague was stayed." The
neat white cottages that peeped at us through
the banana and other trees as we glided along,
together with the spacious chapel in the centre
of the settlement, presented a most delightful
and animated scene. Passing swiftly on, we
reached Avarua about four o'clock in the after
noon, where we came safely to anchor, and on
landing were met by my excellent brother Mr.
Buzacott, the king, and a multitude of people,
who, with joy beaming on their countenances,
were waiting to welcome us to 'their shores. On
inquiring about that terrible disease which was
raging with such awful fatality when we last vi
sited them, they replied, " Oh," you carried it
away with you, for we began to recover imme
diately after your visit, and Rarotonga is again
Rarotonga;" and then they leaped about and
shouted for joy. I was truly glad to find that
they were busily employed in subduing the
weeds, and in restoring their island again to
its previous beautiful order. Makea and the
people generally were inexpressibly delighted
at hearing that I had found Manuka, the island,
it will be recollected, from which, according to
their tradition, came the great and mighty Ka
rika, the progenitor of the present Makea fa
mily. We spent two or three such happy days with
our brethren and their kind people, that the
toils and dangers of our voyage were entirely-
forgotten. A few interesting incidents also oc
curred, which I shall briefly notice.
In passing from Avarua to Ngatangiia, our
old friend Buteve, the cripple, seated himself
on his stone chair by the way-side, and on see
ing us approach, he crawled upon his knees
into the middle of the path, and talked in lively
terms of the goodness of God in " stilling the
raging tempest." He informed us, that on one
occasion, when an armed party were passing
by, he crawled out, and placing himself in their
front, said to them, " Friends, why do you de
sire war in the peaceful reign of Jesus the Son

94

LEAVE RAROTONGA.

of God! Had we not enough of that when we-
were Satanees? Return to your habitations,
and cease by your turbulent spirits, to disturb
the peaceand comfort which the Gospel has in
troduced amongst us." " Instead of listening
to me," said Buteve, " they called me names,
and brandished their spears. I told them that
they might spear me, but that they could not
spear God, who could conquer them when he
pleased ; and this," added the cripple, " he has
now most effectually done. Our own wicked

ness brought this terrible judgment upon us;
but having repented of our folly, God has heard
our prayers, rebuked the disease, and Rarotonga
is again Rarotonga."
Having received a pressing request from Pa
peiha the teacher, and Tinomana the chief, to
visit their station, although anxious to return
home, we felt that it would be unkind not to
gratify them, and certainly we were well repaid
for the sacrifice. The site of this newly-formed
settlement was an extensive plot of flat land,

stretching from the sea to the mountains. The
houses stood several hundred yards from the
beach, and were protected from the glare of
the sea by the rich foliage of rows of large Bar-

ringtonia and other trees which girt the shore.
The settlement was about a mile in length, and
perfectly straight, with a wide road down the
middle ; on either side of which were rows of

VISIT TO ARARONGI— NATIVE LETTER.

95

the tufted-top ti-tree, whose delicate and beauti
ful blossoms, hanging beneath their plume-
crested tops, afforded an agreeable shade, and
rendered the walk delightful. The cottages of
the natives were built in regular lines, about
fifty yards from the border of this broad path
way, and about the same distance from each
other. The chapel and school-house stand in
the centre of the settlement ; and by their pro
minence, both in size and situation, the natives
would appear to express the high value they
attach to the means of religious instruction.
Every house has doors and Venetian windows,
which are painted partly with lamp -black, pro
cured fiom the candle-nut, and partly with red
ochre and other preparations. The contrast
between these and the snowy whiteness of the
coral-lime gives the whole a chaste and ani
mated appearance ; and as the houses are all
new, and of nearly equal dimensions, the settle
ment possesses a uniformity which is seldom
found among the South Sea islanders. The
portion of ground between the pathway and the
house is either tastefully laid out and planted
as a garden, or strewed with black and white
pebbles, which gives to the whole an air of
neatness and respectability creditable alike to
their ingenuity and industry.
Having spent a day most delightfully with
these kind-jiearted people, we returned to Ava
rua, and took our departure, rejoicing that the
wind had permitted us to call at Rarotonga, and
witness the pleasing contrast between the sick
ness, death, and dejection, which prevailed when
we last visited the' island, and the health, pros
perity, and happiness by which they had been
succeeded. As the wind continued fair we called at Man
gaia and Rurutu.* At the latter island we were
informed that Puna the teacher, with his wife
and family, and several natives, had left for
Raiatea, six months before, in a large boat,
which he had built for the purpose ; but as they
had not reached it prior to our sailing, we con
cluded that they were lost at sea. We were
gratified to find, that ever since their teachers
left them, this interesting people had continued
to observe all their religious services, and that
Auura the chief officiated as minister; and it
was a delightful proof of their religious prin
ciple that, although without a guide, they had
also kept up their Missionary prayer-meetings
and anniversaries. During the previous year
they had contributed seven hundred and fifty
bamboos of cocoa-nut oil to the Society. While
here we several times preached to the people,
many of whom we baptized, with their house-
* I have not spoken of any of my visits to Rimatara, a
beautiful little island, about seventy miles west of Ru
rutu. We first heard of it from Auura ; and Christianity
being established at Rurutu, we succeeded in imparting
the same blessings to the inhabitants of Rimatara. My
esteemed colleagues, Messrs. Threlkeld and Orsmond,
were the first Europeans who visited it. — As Mr. Threl
keld has been most grossly libelled and misrepresented
iu New South Wales, I feel much pleasure in stating that
he was my coadjutor, for seven years ; and from the inti
mate intercourse which subsisted between us, I can con
fidently assert that a more worthy and devoted Misssonary
no Society ever had, and a man of more inflexible inte
grity and honorable principle is rarely to be met with.

holds. They were unanimous in their request
that I would bring them another teacher, with
a pious and intelligent wife, saying, that one-
handed people were very good, butthat two-
handed people were much better ; and I regret
ted exceedingly that I was notable to send them
one before I left the islands.
Leaving Rurutu, we reached Tahiti, a dis
tance of three hundred and fifty miles, in forty-
eight hours ! It is worthy of special notice, that
after the fair wind sprung up,- two hundred miles
west of Savage Island, we sailed, in the short
space of fifteen days, a distance of about seven
teen or eighteen hundred miles to the eastward —
an instance perhaps unparalleled in the history
of tropical navigation. On arriving at Tahiti
' we were cordially welcomed by our brethren,
who having heard of numerous shipwrecks since
we sailed, had entertained serious apprehensions
on our account. Their fears, however, were now
removed, and they were delighted to hear of the
success of our enterprise.
As soon as our friends at Aimeo heard of our
being at Tahiti, we received from Mr. Orsmond's
station the following letter : —
'¦ Afareaitu, September 2nd, 1830.
" Dear Friends,Williamu and Miti Papu,*
" May the blessing of the true God attend
you, and of Jesus Christ our Saviour. By the
goodness of our Father, we have the prospect of
meeting again. God has led you out of heathen
islands, and brought you back in safety. His
goodness never fails. This is a little speech to
you two, in which all the brethren of Afareaitu
unite. Inform us about the islands where you
have left om- two brethren, Hatai and Faaruea.
May all our hearts be one in extending the
knowledge of the good name of Jesus ! We re
joice that the deep has not swallowed you up,
as it has done some others, and that you have
not been ill-treated by people in the lands of
darkness, as others have been. The power of
God has preserved you. Let us be more diligent
than ever, brethren, in endeavouring to dispel
the darkness from heathen lands ; let them see
the bright light. May the powerful hand of
God soon pluck up every poisonous plant of
heathenism, that our prayer may be speedily
realised, ' Thy kingdom come ! '
" This is our little request : come and make
known to us fully all the particulars of your
journey, that our hearts may be made warm.
We wish to see your faces ; but if you cannot
come, write to us as much as you can. That is
all we have to say. May great blessing attend
you two, through Jesus Christ !
" The Brethren at Afareaitu."
Desirous of gratifying these friends, we went
over to Aimeo, and spent a most delightful
afternoon and evening with them. After Mr.
Barff and myself had stated the interesting par
ticulars of our voyage, at a meeting convened
for the purpose, Vara, the venerable chief of the
station, arose and said, that although he was ge
nerally dumb, he was now compelled to speak, for
his heart was warmed within him, and he
* Messrs. Williams and Barff.

96

VARA'S DEATH— THE BLIND WARRIOR.

lamented exceedingly that he was not a young
man, to go on such an errand of mercy. He
thought he was never more delighted than dur
ing the time he was listening to our statements ;
and then addressing himself to us and his be
loved Missionary, Mr. Orsmond, he added,
" Do not despise these islands because their in
habitants are not so numerous as those of the
Navigators and other groups, but take great
care of these churches, and let them supply bre
thren to bear the news of salvation to more
populous lands." This was almost the last
meeting that Vara ever attended, for he was
then suffering under the illness by which, soon
after, he was called to his rest. This chief was
a delightful instance of the power of the Gospel.
In the time of their ignorance he was a procurer
of human sacrifices, and on one occasion Po
mare sent to him an order to obtain one imme
diately. Vara was rather at a loss to satisfy this
imperious demand ; and on going in search of
a victim, his own little brother followed him at
a distance, and cried after him. As soon as he
saw him, he turned round, and struck his head
with a stone, killed him, and, having put him
into a large basket made of cocoa-nut leaves,
sent him to Pomare. When his mother be
wailed the death of her child, and charged him
with cruelty for killing his brother, he abused
her, and said, " Is not the favour of the gods, the
pleasure of the king, and the security of our
possessions, worth more than that little fool of
a brother 1 Better lose him than the govern
ment of our district!" How affectingly correct
is the scriptural representation of man in a
heathen state, " without natural affection, im
placable, unmerciful !" Another office held by
Vara was to rally dispirited warriors ; and many
a night has he walked from house to house, to
rouse the savage spirit of the people by assuring
them, on the authority of a pretended commu
nication from some god, of their success in an
approaching battle. But this implacable and un
merciful heathen became a humble and devoted
Christian, and to the day of his death he adorned
his profession. He received Christian baptism
from the hands of our venerable and highly
esteemed brother Missionary, Mr. Henry, but
was for many years a member of the church
under the care of Mr. Orsmond. Vara's eyes
being bad, he could not learn to read ; but hav
ing been in the habit of treasuring in his me
mory passages of Scripture, he had obtained
a correct and extensive knowledge of the great
and essential doctrines of the Gospel. He was
visited many times in his dying moments by
Mr. Orsmond, whose account of his death I will
here subjoin: —
" On seeing that his end was fast approach
ing, I said to him, ' Are you sorry that you cast
away your lying gods, by which you used to gain
so much property?' He was aroused from his
lethargy, and, with tears of pleasure sparkling
in his eyes, he exclaimed, ' Oh, no, no, no.
What ! can I be sorry for casting away death
for life? Jesus is my rock, the fortification in
which my soul takes shelter.'
" I said, ' Tell me on what you found your

hopes of future blessedness.' He replied, ' I
have been very wicked, but a great King from
the other side of the skies sent his ambassadors
with terms of peace. We could not tell, for
many years, what these ambassadors wanted.
At length Pomare obtained a victory, and in
vited all his subjects to come and take refuge
under the wing of Jesus, and I was one of the
first to do so. The blood of Jesus is my founda
tion. I grieve that all my children do not love
him. Had they known the misery we endured
in the reign of the devil, they would gladly take
the Gospel in exchange for their follies. Jesus
is the best King; he gives a pillow without
thorns.' ,
" A little time after, I asked him if he was
afraid to die, when, with almost youthful energy,
he replied, ' No, no. The canoe is in the sea,
the sails are spread, she is ready for the gale.
I have a good Pilot to guide me, and a good
haven to receive me. My outside man and my
inside man differ. Let the one rot till the trump
shall sound, but let my soul wing her way to the
throne of Jesus.' Will he not through eternity
sing hallelujahs to God and the Lamb, because
of the South Sea Mission?"
After having remained a sabbath with our
beloved friends, Mr. and Mrs. Simpson, we
sailed for Huahine, where Mrs. Williams and
Mrs. Piatt were spending a few days with Mrs.
Barff, anxiously waiting our arrival. It is su
perfluous to add, that this was a happy meeting.
Safe and happy ourselves, our joy was complete
when we found our wives and families in health,
and our stations in prosperity. Thus terminated
this important voyage, the blessed results of
which will, I believe, be as valuable as the soul,
and as enduring as eternity.
On arriving at Raiatea, a scene not very dis
similar to that I have just described came under
my immediate observation. In my own church
was an old blind warrior, called Me. He had
been the terror of all the inhabitants of Raiatea,
and the neighbouring islands ; but in the last
battle which was fought before Christianity was
embraced, he received a blow which destroyed
his sight.
A few years after my settlement at Raiatea,
Me was brought under the influence of the Gos
pel, and when our church was formed, lie was
among the first members admitted. His dili
gence in attending the house of God was re
markable, whither he was guided by some kind
friend, who would take one end of his stick
while he held the other. The most respectable
females in the settlement thought this no dis
grace, and I have frequently seen principal
chiefs, and the king himself, leading him in this
way to chapel. Although blind, he attended
our adult schools at six o'clock in the morning,
and by repeating- and carefully treasuring up
what kind friends read to him, he obtained a
great familiarity with the truths of the New
Testament. And here I may observe, that the
natives generally are exceedingly kind to blind
and aged people, in reading to them portions of
Scripture which they are desirous of retaining,
and! do not know a more interesting scene than

THE DROP OF BLOOD— ME'S DEATH.

97

is presented at times in our adult schools. Here
you will see a pious female, surrounded by three
or four of her own sex, decrepit with age, to
whom she is reading and explaining some im
portant passages in the word of God ;— there
you may observe a principal chief or his wife
engaged in the same way. In one place you
would find a little boy, in another an interesting
little girl, seated among old warriors, and either
teaching them the alphabet, instructing them in
spelling, or reading over some portions of Scrip
ture. On the first Sabbath after my return I
missed old Me ; and not receiving the hearty
grasp of congratulation from him to which I was
accustomed, I inquired of the deacons where he
was, when they informed me that he was ex
ceedingly ill, and not expected to recover. I
determined, therefore, to visit him immediately.
On reaching the place of his residence, I found
him lying in a little hut, detached from the
dwelling-house, and on entering it, I addressed
him by saying, " Me, I am sorry to find you so
ill." Recognising my voice, he exclaimed, " Is
it you? Do I really hear your voice again he-
fore I die ? I shall die happy now. I was afraid
I should have died before your return." My
first inquiry related to the manner in which he
was supphed with food ; for in their heathen
state, as soon as old or infirm persons became a
burden to their friends, they were put to death
in a most barbarous manner. Under the pre
tence of carrying the victim of their cruelty to a
stream of water to bathe, his relations would
hurl him into a hole previously dug for the pur
pose, and then throw a heap of stones upon the
body. Even for a considerable time after Chris
tianity was embraced, we found it necessary,
when visiting the sick and afflicted, to make
strict inquiry as to the attention they received.
In reply to my question, Me stated that at times
he suffered much from hunger. I said, " How
so? You have your own plantations;" for,
although blind, he was diligent in the cultiva
tion of sweet potatoes and bananas. "Yes," he
said, "but as soon as I was taken ill, the people
with whom I lived seized my ground, and I am at
times exceedingly in want." I asked him why he
had not complained to the chief, or to some of
the Christian brethren who visited him ; and his
affecting reply was, " I feared lest the people
should call me a talebearer, and speak evil
of my religion, and I thought I would rather
suffer hunger or death than give them occa
sion to do so." I then inquired what bre
thren visited him in his affliction, to read and
pray with him. Naming several, he added
" they do not come so often as 1 could wish;
yet I am not lonely, for I have frequent visits
from God : — God and I were talking when you
came in." " Well," I said, " and what were
you talking about % " "I was praying to depart
and to be with Christ, which is far better,"
was his reply. Having intimated that I feared
his sickness would terminate in death, I wished
him to tell me what he thought of himself in
the sight of God, and what was the foundation
of his hope. " Oh ! " he replied, " I have been
in great trouble this morning, but I am happy
No. 7.

now. I saw an immense mountain, with pre
cipitous sides, up which I endeavoured to climb,
but when I had attained a considerable height, I
lost my hold and fell to the bottom. Exhausted
with perplexity and fatigue, I went to a distance
and sat down to weep, and while weeping, I
saw a drop of blood fell upon that mountain,
and in a moment it was dissolved." Wishing
to obtain his own ideas of what had been pre
sented to his imagination, I said, " this was
certainly a strange sight ; what construction do
you put upon it?" After expressing his sur
prise that I should be at a loss for the inter
pretation, he exclaimed, " That mountain was
my sins, and the drop which fell upon it was one
drop of the precious blood of Jesus, by which
the mountain of my guilt must be melted away."
I expressed my satisfaction at finding he had such
an idea of the magnitude of his guilt, and such
exalted views of the efficajy of the Saviour's
blood, and that although the eyes of his body
were blind, he could with the " eye of his heart"
see such a glorious sight. He then went on to
state, that the various sermons he had heard
were now his companions in solitude, and tbe
source of his comfort in affliction. On saying,
at the close of the interview, that I would go
home and prepare some medicine for him, which
might afford him ease, he replied, " I will drink
it, because you say I must, but I shall not pray
to be restored to health again, for my desire is
to depart and be with Christ, which is far better
than to remain longer in this sinful world."
In my subsequent visits, I always found him
happy and cheerful, longing to depart and
be with Christ. This was constantly the
burden of his prayer. I was with him when
he breathed his last. During this interview, he
quoted many precious passages of Scripture ;
and having exclaimed with energy, " Oh death,
where is thy sting ? " his voice faltered, his eyes
became fixed, his hands dropped, and his
spirit departed to be with that Saviour, one drop
of whose blood had melted away the mountain
of his guilt. Thus died poor old. Me, the blind
warrior of Raiatea. I retired from the over
whelming and interesting scene, praying as I
went that my end might be like his.

CHAPTER XXII.
Distress at Raiatea — Tamatoa — His Character and Death
— Sail again for Rarotonga — New Chapel — Beautiful
Appearance of the Settlement — Makea's Generosity-
Ancient Usages revived — The effects of a Discourse — '¦
A Hurricane — Mrs. Buzacott's Distress — Mrs.Williams's
narrow Escape — A Thousand Houses destroyed. — The
Island devastated.
The following year, 1831, spent at my own
station, was one of distress and anxiety ; but as
the details would fill a volume, I must content
myself with a bare notice of the leading events
of that period. Fenuapeho, the chief of the
neighbouring island, having been lost at sea,
the government devolved upon Tapoa, the
grandson of a terrible warrior of that name, an
inveterate enemy of Christianity ; the circum
stances of whose death, which occurred at a
H

98

TAMATOA' S CHARACTER— HIS DEATH.

critical period, I have previously * narrated.
On his attaining the sovereignty, the exiles
from all the islands, together with the disaffected,
and a few restless-spirited old warriors, rallied
round this young chieftain, intoxicated him
with ideas of his greatness, and represented to
him that, by a desperate effort, he might de
pose the reigning family, make himself chief of
all the Leeward Islands, and be as renowned as
his grandfather. Every effort was made that
kindness could suggest, or ingenuity devise, to
induce him and his followers to desist from
their obstinate and ruinous course, but in vain ;
and a collision between the parties appeared
inevitable. The anxiety and agitation occasioned
by these distressing circumstances, so preyed
upon the mind of our chief, Tamatoa, who was
already enfeebled by age, that they accelerated
his death.
There were som^ circumstances in the life of
this celebrated chieftain which, although a di
gression, may be introduced here with pro
priety. He was the patriarch of royalty in the
Society Islands, his eldest daughter having the
government of Huahine, and his grand-daughter
being the present queen of Tahiti. He was
a remarkably fine man, being six feet eleven
inches in height. Respecting his Christian
consistency, different opinions have been ex
pressed; but, for my own part, I confidently
hope that he was a subject of Divine grace. I
will, however, relate a few particulars of his
history, and leave the reader to draw his own
conclusion. In his heathen state he was wor
shipped as a god, and to him the eye of the
human victim was presented before tbe body
was carried to the marae. Wben visited by the
Deputation, Mr. Bennet requested me to ask
him, which, of all the crimes, he had committed,
lay heaviest upon his mind ; and, after some
hesitation, he replied — " That of allowing
myself to be worshipped as a god, when 1 knew
that I was but a man." Before he wa. brought
under the influence of the Gospel, he was much
addicted to the use of the intoxicating juice of
the kava root, which appears to produce a nar-
coctic effect so peculiar, that the slightest noise
is exceedingly distracting to persons under its
influence. Immediately it was known that the
king had been drinking, the women ceased to
beat their cloth, and all sounds in the immediate
vicinity were to be hushed. Children also were
carefully removed from the premises, lest he
should be annoyed in the slumbering fit which
had been induced by the stupifying draught.
It appears that he was exceedingly desperate
while in a state of intoxication, and that on the
slightest disturbance he would seize a club,
spear, or any other weapon, rush out of the
house, and wreak his vengeance on friend or
foe, man, woman, or child, whom he might
happen to meet. In this way several persons
have fallen victims to his ferocity. On such
occasions his look and manner must indeed
have been terrible. The flashing fury of his
eye, the curl of his thick lip, the lowering aspect
* Page 61

of his brow, together with the growling tone of
his voice, and the violent gestures of his Her
culean frame, were calculated to strike the
stoutest heart with terror. Once, when thus
aroused, he rushed out of his dwelling, and not
being able to find a weapon, he struck an un
offending person such a violent blow with his
fist, that he knocked his eye out, and mutilated
his own hand so much, that he lost, in conse
quence, the first and second bones of his fore
finger. After ardent spirits were introduced by
vessels from England and America, he became
exceedingly addicted to this new method of
intoxication, and when under their influence,
was equally violent and terrible. Thus he con
tinued till he embraced the Gospel; but then
he made a solemn vow to Jehovah that he
would never again, to the day of his death,
taste either the one or the other. I knew him
intimately for fifteen years, and I am convinced
that he kept his vow most sacredly. The effect
of his example upon the people was exceedingly
beneficial ; for while the stations of my brethren
were suffering severely from this poison of the
soul as well as the body, we were entirely free
from it, and during the above-mentioned period
of fifteen years, I saw but one or two persons
in a state of intoxication. Tamatoa was con
stant in his attendance at our adult school ; and,
at six o'clock in the morning, he always took
his seat on my right hand, read his verse in ro
tation with others of the class, and evinced
great pleasure when his answers to my ques
tions upon it afforded me satisfaction. At the
catechetical exercises, the prayer-meetings, and
the more public ordinances of God's house, his
seat was always occupied. He certainly de
lighted in receiving Christian instruction, and
invariably encouraged whatever was calculated
to promote the civil and religious improvement
of his people.
I visited him frequently in his last illness, and
found his views of the way of salvation clear and
distinct, and his spirit resting on Christ alone.
Just before he expired, he exhorted his son, who
was to succeed him, his daughter, and the chiefs
assembled on the mournful occasion, to be firm
in their attachment to the Gospel, to maintain
the Laws, and to be kind to their Missionary.
Extending his withered arms to me, he ex
claimed, " My dear friend, how long we have
laboured together in this good cause ; nothing
has ever separated us : now death is doing what
nothing else has done ; but ' who shall separate
us from the love of Christ ? ' "
Thus died Tamatoa, once the terror of his
subjects, the murderer of his people, a despotic
tyrant, and a most bigoted idolater !
With such facts as these before us, illustrating
the moral power and the transforming influence
of the Gospel, what reflecting or benevolent
individual can be indifferent to its propagation?
The death of Tamatoa, instead of producing
a favourable impression upon the minds of the
opposite party, strengthened his determination
to persist in their unreasonable demands, and
for months I was racked with anxiety to ascer
tain the path of duty. I wished much to have

ARRIVAL AT RAROTONGA— BEAUTY OF THE SETTLEMENT.

remained at Raiatea, until these differences had
been adjusted, but other circumstances rendered
this impossible. My brethren, Pitman and Buza
cott, had agreed to translate the New Testament,
with me, into the Rarotonga dialect, and as
each had accomplished his portion, it was ne
cessary that we should spend a few months
together in revising and perfecting the whole,
prior to my embarkation for England. The
time also for visiting the out-stations, especially
the Navigators' Islands, had arrived, and as the
period of Mrs. Williams's confinement was ap
proaching, and she had lost so many children at
Raiatea, she hoped, by a change of place and
scene, to be spared the distress of consigning a
seventh sweet babe to a premature grave. The
vessel also required considerable repairs, and
as the stores sent by the kind friends in England
had arrived, I was supplied with every article
to complete her outfit.
For these reasons, on the 21st of September,
1831, we again sailed for Rarotonga. We
reached it in safety, after a pleasant voyage of
six or seven days, and found the Mission families
in -good health, but much in want of the sup
plies we were conveying to them.
The improvements effected, by the people's
diligence, since our former visit, were so many
and interesting, that the settlement at Avarua
surpassed in order and neatness any other of
our Missionary stations. A new chapel had
been erected, of considerable elevation, and su
perior construction, having at each end porti
coes, which were approached by flights of steps
of hewn coral. The school-house, which was
about a hundred feet in length, stood by its
side, and both it and the chapel were encircled
by a neat stone wall. In front, and at equal
distances, some toa, or casuarina trees, reared
their stately heads, through the graceful foliage
of which the snow-white buildings presented
themselves, and at the back were two houses
larger than the generality of those which com
pose the settlement, surrounded also with stone
walls, and haying spacious gardens in front.
These were the dwellings of the chief and Mis
sionary. The pathways through the gardens to
the houses were strewed with white coral and
black pebbles, and you were shaded from the
piercing rays of the sun by the ti-trees and
bananas which were planted on either side.
Stretching away to the right and left for at least
a mile in each direction, we saw the neat white
cottages of the natives, built on the same plan
as those of the chief and Missionary, but on a
smaller scale. A wide pathway ran through
the middle of the settlement, on either side of
which stood the native dwellings ; these, with
their windows and doors neatly painted, and
with front gardens tastily laid out, and well
stocked with flowers and shrubs, gave to the
whole scene an air of comfort and respectability.
Having to address the people, I took for my
text, Psalm cxxvi. 3, " The Lord hath done
great things' for us, whereof we are glad." The
congregation was very large, and Papeiha, Tino
mana, and many of the people of their station,
had come to welcome us. We were gratified

at perceiving that the interior of the chapel
corresponded with its exterior, and was fitted
up more in the English style than any hitherto
erected. It had galleries all round, supported
by pillars very neatly turned. It was also pewed
throughout, and the pulpit was richly orna
mented. It was capable of accommodating two
thousand people, and though, on close inspec
tion, the workmanship appeared rather rough,
it did credit to the ingenuity of Mr. Buzacott,
who designed the plan and superintended the
erection, as well as to the diligence of the people
by whom it was built.
Makea was exceedingly liberal, for he had
between two and three hundred pigs baked to
entertain his friends and the people at the open
ing, besides those which he had given to tbe
workmen during its erection.
After consulting with my brethren, I deter
mined, in company with Mr. Buzacott and
Makea, to visit the neighbouring islands, before
we commenced either the revision of the trans
lations or the repairs of the vessel. Having
performed this voyage, the particulars of which
will be found in the accounts already given of
the islands of Aitutaki, Mangaia, Atiu, and
Mauke, we prepared to haul the vessel on shore,
and commence the intended repairs and altera
tions, which were, to lengthen her six feet, and
give her a new stern ; and after having examined
the harbours, we selected Makea's station for
the purpose. As we attended assiduously to
this work on one part of the day, and to the
translations during the remainder, we proceeded
rapidly and successfully for the first fortnight,
when new troubles arose. At a meeting of the
chiefs and people, whether convened by accident
or design we could not ascertain, a proposition
was made and carried to revive several of their
heathen customs, and immediately after, the
barbarous practice of tatooing commenced in all
directions, and numbers were seen parading the
settlement, decorated in the heathen trappings
which they had abandoned for several years.
The effects of these unwise and unholy measures
were felt in the schools, from which many of
the promising young people of both sexes were
unhappily drawn aside. At Mr. Pitman's sta
tion, two young chiefs, who had been particu
larly useful, and of whom he entertained pleas
ing hopes, publicly declared their determination
to adopt the former customs, and in order to
induce others to join them they used some in
solent expressions to their Missionary. Many
devoted young persons immediately stood up in
Mr. Pitman's defence, and declared that they
would remain steadfast in their attachment to
him, and continue to receive his instructions.
Upon these the two young chiefs and their party
poured a torrent of the bitterest sarcasm, and
thus attempted to shame them out of their de
cision. These transactions were entirely new
at Rarotonga, and caused, for a time, much
perplexity and pain. The Missionaries, however,
thought it wise to allow the people to take their
own course, concluding that these young chiefs
must have powerful supporters, or they would
not have had the temerity to act as they did.
H 2

100

AN IMPORTANT MEETING— THE HURRICANE.

Intending to spend the Sabbath with Mr.
Pitman, Mrs. Williams and myself went to
Ngatangiia, on the Friday, when our friends
gave us a full account of their difficulties. I was
truly thankful that I was there at the time, to
sympathise with my brethren and assist them in
their troubles.
On the Sabbath morning, I took for my text
the 30th and 31st verses of the 17th chapter of
the Acts of the Apostles, and adapting my dis
course to existing circumstances, preached one
of the most spirit-stirring discourses I could
compose, in which I endeavoured to convince
the people that their practices were attended
with peculiar aggravations, and that God would
not now, as in the days of their ignorance, wink
at such wickedness. A very powerful impres
sion was produced, and early the following
morning a meeting was convened, which Mr.
Pitman and myself were invited to attend ; when
both Pa and Kainuku declared that the revival
of the evil practices did not originate with them.
The former expressed his abhorrence of tbe evil,
his unabated attachment both to his Missionary
and to Christianity, and his grief on account of the
manner in which his son had acted towards Mr.
Pitman. Tupe, the judge, spoke next, and gave
a most interesting account of himself, from the
time at which he became a Christian. He
stated, that he was one of the last to receive the
Gospel, and had held out against it longer than
any other chief on the island, but that from the
moment he became convinced of its truth, he
embraced it, and had determined to understand
its principles, and, as far as possible, act up to
its precepts. He further observed, that at an
early period after his conversion, he was in
vested with an office by the native Missionaries,
and since the establishment of law he had been
selected by his brother chiefs as principal judge ;
but that having endeavoured, in the discharge
of his public duties, fearless of consequences,
to act conscientiously and impartially, he had
been maligned and suspected, had suffered the
destruction of his property, and twice had his
house burnt down. He concluded his powerful
and pathetic address by saying, that while lie
held the office of judge, nothing should deter
him from an impartial discharge of its duties.
As Mr. Pitman did not like to interfere, I
addressed the meeting ; after which we left
them to adopt their own measures. They then
passed aunanimous resolution, to send a message
to request Makea to prohibit the heathen cus
toms. A few days after this the chiefs son came,
and expressed to Mr. Pitman his deep sorrow
at having been so led away ; and his companion
in delinquency addressed to him a sensible and
penitential letter to the same effect. Thus, at
Ngatangiia, the torrent which threatened to in
undate the island with wickedness was stemmed.
At Arorangi, the pious and . excellent chief,
Tinomana, would not listen for a moment to
the proposal to resuscitate any relic of heathen
ism, and by his decided opposition he put a
stop at once to all further disturbance and per
plexity. Makea and bis party, however, did
not agree to the request of Pa and his brother

chiefs, and the evil-disposed persons at his station
were allowed to follow their own inclinations.
About a fortnight after this, God was pleased
to teach them terrible things in righteousness,
by visiting their garden island with a most fu
rious and devastating hurricane ; the effects of
which were long felt, and the remembrance of
it will be transmitted to posterity.
We were spending a few days with Mr. Pit
man, revising our translations, when, early on
Saturday morning, 21st December, I received a
note from Mr. Buzacott, informing me that a
very heavy sea was rolling into the harbour, and
that although there was no immediate danger,
yet, if it increased, of which there was every
probability, the vessel must sustain injury. I
set off immediately for Avarua, and on my ar
rival was alarmed and distressed at the threat
ening appearance of the atmosphere and the
agitated state of the ocean. I instantly em
ployed a number of natives to carry stones, and
raise a kind of breakwater around the vessel.
One end of the chain-cable was then fastened
to the ship, and the other attached to the main-
post of our large school-house, which stood
upon a bank ten feet high, about forty or fifty
yards from the sea ; and, having removed all
the timber and ship's stores to what we sup
posed a place of safety, and taken every precau
tion to secure my ship and property from the de
structive effects ofthe coming tempest, I returned
to Ngatangiia, fatigued and distressed. As I
was leaving Avarua, I turned round to take, as
I feared, a last look at the little vessel, when I
saw a heavy sea roll in and lift her several feet ;
she, however, fell very gently to her place again.
The next day was the Sabbath, and it was one
of gloom and distress. The wind blew most
furiously, and the rain descended in torrents
from morning until night. We held, however,
our religious services as usual. Towards evening
the storm increased ; trees were rent, and houses
began to fall. Among the latter was a large
shed, formerly used as a temporary school-
house, which buried my best boat in its ruins.
We had waited with great anxiety during the
day to hear from Mr. Buzacott, and, as no in
formation had arrived, we entertained a hope
that the sea had subsided. But, instead of this,
about nine o'clock, a note came to apprise me
that it had risen to a most alarming height, that
the vessel had been thumping on the stones the
whole of the day, and that, at six o'clock, the
roof that covered her was blown down and
washed away. To complete the evil tidings,
the messenger told us that the sea had gone
over the bank and reached the school-house,
which contained the rigging, copper, and stores
of our vessel, and that, if it continued to increase,
the whole settlement would be endangered.
As the distance was eight miles, the night
terrifically dark and dismal, and the rain pour
ing down like a deluge, I determined to wait
till the morning. We spent a sleepless night,
during which the howling of the tempest, the
hollow roar of the billows as they burst upon
the reef, the shouting of the natives, the falling
of the houses, together, with the writhing and

THE HURRICANE ABATES.

101

creaking of our own dwelling under the violence
of the storm, were sufficient not merely to
deprive us of sleep, but to strike terror into the
stoutest heart.
Before daylight on the Monday morning I set
off for Avarua, and, in order to avoid walking
knee- deep in water nearly all the way, and to
escape the falling limbs of trees, which were
being torn with violence from their trunks, I
attempted to take the seaside path ; but the
wind and. rain were so furious that I found it
impossible to make any progress. I was there
fore obliged to take the inland road, and, by
watching my opportunity, and running between
the falling trees, I escaped without injury.
When about half way I was met by some of my
own workmen, who were coming to inform me
of the fearful devastation going on at the settle
ment. " The sea," they said, " had risen to a
great height, and had swept away the store
house and all its contents ; the vessel was driven
in against the bank, upon which she was lifted
with every wave, and fell off again when it
receded!" After a trying walk, thoroughly
drenched, cold, and exhausted, I reached the
settlement, which presented a scene of fearful
desolation, the very sight of which filled me
with dismay. I supposed, indeed, that much
damage had been done, but I little expected to
behold the beautiful settlement, with its luxu
riant groves, its broad pathways, and neat white
cottages, one mass of ruins, among which scarcely
a house or tree was standing. The poor women
were running about with their children, wildly
looking for a place of safety ; and the men were
dragging their little property from beneath tbe
ruins of their prostrate houses. The screams of
the former and the shouts of the latter, together
with the roaring sea, the pelting rain, the howl
ing wind, the falling trees, and the infuriated
appearance of the atmosphere, presented a spec
tacle the most sublime and terrible, which made
us stand, and tremble, and adore. On reaching
the chapel I was rejoiced to see it standing ; but,
as we were passing, a resistless gust burst in
the east end, and proved the premonitory signal
of its destruction. The new school-house was
lying in ruins by its side. Mr. Buzacott's ex
cellent dwelling, which stood upon a stone
foundation, was rent and unroofed, the inmates
had fled, and the few natives who could attend
were busily employed in removing the goods to
a place of safety. Shortly after my arrival, a
heavy sea burst in with devastating vengeance,
and tore away the foundation of the chapel,
which fell with a frightful crash. The same
mighty wave rolled on in its destructive course
till" it dashed against Mr. Buzacott's house,
already mutilated with the storm, and laid it
prostrate with the ground. The chiefs wife
came and conducted Mrs. Buzacott to her habi
tation, which was then standing; but shortly
after they had reached it, the sea began to dash
against it, and the wind tore off the roof, so
that our poor fugitive sister and her three little
children were obliged to take refuge in the
mountains. Accompanied by two or three
faithful females, among whom was the chiefs

wife, they waded nearly a mile through water,
which in some places was several feet deep. On
reaching the side of the bill, where they ex
pected a temporary shelter, they had the severe
mortification of finding that a huge tree had
fallen upon and crushed it. Again they pur
sued their watery way in search of a covert from
the storm, and at length reached a hut, which
was crowded with women and children who had
taken refuge in it. They were, however, gladly
welcomed, and every possible assistance was ren
dered to alleviate their distress.* Mr. Buzacott
and myself had retired to a small house belong
ing to his servants, which we had endeavoured
to secure with ropes, and into which all Our
books and property had been conveyed. One
wave, however, dashed against it ; we therefore
sent off a box or two of books and clothes to
the mountains, and waited with trembling
anxiety to know what would become of us.
The rain was still descending in deluging tor
rents ; the angry lightning was darting its fiery
streams among the dense black clouds which
shrouded us in their gloom ; the thunder, deep
and loud, rolled and pealed through the hea
vens ; and the whole island trembled to its very
centre as the infuriated billows burst upon its
shores. The crisis had arrived ; this was the
hour of our greatest anxiety ; but " man's
extremity is God's opportunity;" and never
was the sentiment expressed in this beautiful
sentence more signally illustrated than at this
moment ; fer the wind shifted suddenly a few
points to the west, which was a signal to the
sea to cease its ravages and retire within its
wonted limits ; the storm was hushed ; the
lowering clouds began to disperse, and the sun,
as a prisoner, bursting forth from his dark dun
geon, smiled upon us from above, and told us that
" God had not forgotten to be gracious." We
now ventured to creep out of our hiding-places,
and were appalled at beholding the fearful de
solation that was spread around us. As soon
as possible, I sent a messenger to obtain some
information respecting my poor vessel, expecting
that she had been shivered into a thousand
pieces ; but, to our astonishment, he returned
with the intelligence that, although the bank,
the school-house, and the vessel were all washed
away together, the latter had been carried over
a swamp, and lodged amongst a grove of large
chestnut-trees several hundred yards inland,
and yet appeared to have- sustained no injury
whatever ! As soon as practicable, I went myself,
and was truly gratified at finding that the report
was correct, and that the trees had stopped her
wild progress, otherwise she would have been
driven several hundred yards farther, and have
sunk in a bog.
I was now most anxious to return to Ngatan
giia, being greatly concerned and distressed for
Mrs. Williams ; for, in the height of the storm,
I had despatched a messenger, to request Mr.
• As soon as Mr. Buzacott heard that Mrs. Buzacott
and the children had been compelled to leave the chiefs
house, he went in search of them, and, after experiencing
considerable anxiety on their account, was truly grate
ful to find them safely housed.

102

MRS. WILLIAMS'S NARROW ESCAPE.

Pitman to send us help ; but he returned with
the dismal tidings that the ravages of the tem
pest were as devastating there as at Avarua.
I therefore hastened back, and when about half
way was met by a native, with a letter from
Mrs. Williams, begging me to return imme
diately, as she was apprehensive of serious con
sequences, from the fright she had sustained.
On arriving at Ngatangiia the scene of desola
tion was almost as terrific as that at Avarua.
Mr. Pitman's house, although standing, was
unroofed, and severely .shattered ; and Mrs.
Williams, with Mr. and Mrs. Pitman, had taken
refuge in a small new cottage belonging to Pa,
the principal chief, which was now almost the
only tenantable dwelling in the whole settle
ment. I was truly thankful to find that Mrs.
Williams's fears were not likely to be realized ;
and we fondly entertained a hope that our
babe would yet be spared to us. It appeared
that she had had the narrowest possible escape
from a horrible death ; for shortly after I left,
Mrs. Pitman, who was sleeping in the next
room, perceiving the roof of the house writhe
under the pressure of the tempest, urged Mrs.
Williams to get up immediately ; and she had
no sooner risen from the bed than a violent
gust of wind burst in the end of the dwelling,
which fell with a crash upon the very spot on
which she was lying two minutes before. Wrap
ping themselves in blankets, they rushed out of
the falling house, and stood in an open space,
while natives were sent to seek for a hut or
cottage, where they might find a temporary
shelter. One of them shortly returned, saying
that there was a small house standing, belong
ing to one of Mr. Pitman's servants. To this
they instantly repaired ; but before they reached
it, a cocoa-nut tree had fallen upon it, and se
vered it in two. They were again obliged to
seek safety, by exposing themselves to the fury
of the raging elements, rather than approach
houses or trees. At length a messenger came,
running to inform them that Pa's house was
standing, and the way to it tolerably free. On
their arrival the chief showed them every atten
tion, and had his house made as secure as pos
sible with ropes ; but here, also, they were
kept in great terror by a stately cocoa-nut tree,
which was bowing and bending over their heads.
They succeeded, however, in getting a bold and
active young man to climb up and cut off the
branches, whom they rewarded for his temerity.
In the evening we had time to collect our
thoughts, and reflect upon our situation. The
chapels, school- houses, Mission -houses, and
nearly all the dwellings of the natives, were
levelled to the ground.* Our property was
scattered by the winds and waves, among a
people who were formerly the most pilfering
of any with whom we were acquainted, and
many of whom still retained this propensity.
Every particle of food in the island was destroyed.
Scarcely a banana plaintain tree was left, either
on the plains, in the valleys, or upon the moun
tains ; hundreds of thousands of which, on tbe
* I should think very few short of a thousand houses
were destroyed in this terrific hurricane.

preceding day, covered and adorned the land
with their foliage and fruit. Thousands of
stately bread-fruit, together with immense chest
nut and other huge trees, that had withstood
the storms of ages, were laid prostrate on the
ground, and thrown upon each other in the
wildest confusion. Of those that were standing
many were branchless, and all leafless. So
great and so general was the destruction that
no spot escaped ; for the gale veered gradually
round the island, and performed most effectually
its devastating commission. But in this, as in
all God's afflictive dispensations, mercy was
mingled with judgment; for had the gale been
at its height during the night, or had it lasted
much longer, the consequences would have
been greatly aggravated.
At the close of this memorable day, the 23rd
of December, 1831, we united at the footstool of
Divine mercy, to express our gratitude to God
for having preserved us amidst such imminent
peril, and for having stilled the raging of the
storm. We then spread om- mats upon fhe
ground, which was covered with a thick layer of
dried grass ; and stretching our weary limbs, we
enjoyed a few hours of sound and refreshing
sleep, after the excitement and exhaustion of
this distressing day. Of Mr. Pitman's kind
concern for Mrs. Williams we still entertain the
most grateful remembrance ; for although ex
ceedingly weak and nervous himself, he used
his utmost exertions to save her from suffering
either in body or mind.
Early the following day we commenced re
pairing Mr. Pitman's house, which we strength
ened with tie-beams and braces ; and as soon as
it was habitable, Mr. Pitman sent to Avarua,
to offer our houseless brother and family an
asylum, which they gladly accepted.

CHAPTER XXIII.
The Messenger of Peace on Shore — The Effect of the
Hurricane upon the Minds of the People— The Death of
our seventh Babe— More Disasters— A great Feast —
Singular Ceremony in apportioning the Food — Five
Calamities — Value of Ironmongery — The Messenger
ol; Peace Repaired and Launched — Voyage to Tahiti,
fee— Evils of Ardent Spirits— The Destruction of the
Stills — Establishment of Temperance Societies— Re
turn to Rarotonga— Introduction of Horses, Cattle, &c.
Anxious to know something satisfactory about
my poor ship, on the Friday following I went to
Avarua, and was both astonished and rejoiced
at finding that she had sustained no injury
whatever. She had however worked herself
into a hole about four feet deep, and when lifted
by the sea, had broken off large branches from
the trees, twelve and fifteen feet high. The
whole of her stores, mast, rigging, blocks, pitch,
and copper, were strewed over the low land.
Some of these were buried under the ruins of
the houses, and others beneath a mass of fallen
trees. I much feared whether I should be able
to recover enough to refit the vessel again ; but
by great perseverance, in digging away the sand,
in repeatedly traversing the settlement, in turn
ing over the rubbish thrown up by the sea, and
the ruins of the houses, we succeeded beyond our

FIVE CALAMITIES— VALUE OF IRONMONGERY.

103

most sanguine expectations. My most serious
loss was seventy sheets of copper ; for one of the
boxes was rent to pieces by the violence of the
waves ; and of the hundred sheets which it con
tained, only thirty were ever recovered, some of
which were crumpled and battered in the most
singular manner.
As soon as the consternation produced by the
hurricane had subsided, a large meeting was
convened, when it was agreed to commence
immediately a temporary house of worship, to
build a dwelling for Mr. Buzacott, and to repair
that of the chief. At this meeting the great
body of tbe people charged the chiefs with
having brought this distress upon them ; regard-
ingitas a judgment from God, for havingrevived
the evil customs which they had for years aban
doned. As this feeling was general, a resolution
was unanimously passed, that all the late inno
vations should be suppressed, and that the
observance of the laws should be strictly en
forced. One of the chiefs, a good-meaning but
ignorant man, proposed that he and his brother
chiefs should all be tried, and sentenced to some
punishment, as an atonement for the sins of
the people.
The effect of this severe dispensation upon
the minds of the natives was various. Some
took disgust, left the settlement, and went to
live at their respective districts, saying, that
since the introduction of Christianity, they had
been visited with a greater number of more
direful calamities than when they were heathens.
They enumerated five distinct distresses that
had come upon them since they had renounced
idolatry. The first of these was the severe
sickness that raged shortly after the arrival of
Mr. Pitman and myself, in 1827. The second
was the dreadful malady, which carried off so
many hundreds, in 1830. Then the highest
mountain was set on fire in a thunder-storm,
and it burnt so furiously for nearly a fortnight,
that the affrighted people thought the day of
judgment was at hand: this was the third.
The fourth was of an extraordinary prevalence
of caterpillars, and of an insect of the mantis
family : the former devoured their taro, and the
latter destroyed their cocoa-nut trees. And
now the crowning catastrophe was the relent
less hurricane, which had swept over and devas
tated their island, and thus completed tbeir
misery. Many, however, looked upon all these
visitations as judgments, and were subdued and
humbled under them. An address, delivered at
the meeting of which I have spoken, by a truly
excellent old man, will afford an illustration of
this. As a foundation for his remarks, he se
lected that passage in the Gospel of Luke,
"Whose fan in his hand," &c, and referring to
the five calamities, as means employed by Jesus
Christ for the spiritual benefit of a sinful and
obstinate people, he said, " Had we been im
proved by the first judgment, we might have
escaped the second. Had we been properly
impressed by the second, we might have escaped
the third, and should have been spared the
fourth. But as all the preceding judgments had
failed, in the accomplishment of the desired ob

ject, we are now visited by a much more signal
display of Divine power. Still his fan is in his
hand, and he has not exhausted the means he
possesses of cleansing his floor. Let us then
humble ourselves, under this display of his
power, and not provoke him still more by our
obstinacy." He then proceeded to notice the
manner in which the Lord had mingled mercy
with his judgments. " True," said the good old.
chieftain, " our food is all destroyed, but our lives
are spared ; our houses are all blown down, but
our wives and children have escaped ; our large
new chapel is a heap of ruins, and for this 1
grieve most of all, yet we have a God to worship ;
our school-house is washed away, yet our
teachers are spared to us ; and holding up a
portion of the New Testament, he continued,
" we have still this precious book to instruct
us." This address produced a most salutary
effect upon the people. A great stimulus was
also given to their exertions by a circumstance
that will afford interest to my kind and valued
friends at Birmingham. The poor afflicted
people, having to rebuild chapels and school-
houses in all the stations, together with dwelling-
houses for their chiefs, their Missionaries, and
themselves, and having scarcely any tools to
work with, I determined to appropriate a small
portion of the cask of ironmongery, sent by
my Birmingham friends, for the purpose of
assisting and encouraging them in their dis
tressing circumstances. I therefore not only
supplied my esteemed brethren and Makea with
a few axes, to lend as a general stock, but also
made a present of an axe, a hatchet, or a saw to
most of the chiefs of importance. This trans
fused into them such energy, that in a very few
weeks the fallen trees and rubbish were cleared
away, and comfortable temporary houses erected
in all the settlements. I mention this to show
our friends the great value of the articles they
have from time to time transmitted to us.
What I gave away would not, I suppose, cost in
Birmingham more than five or six pounds ; but
its value, in our circumstances, was inestimable.
As my brethren, Buzacott and Pitman, were
both at Ngatangiia, I determined to spend the
Sabbath at Arorangi. In this journey I per
ceived, in all parts of the island, immense trees
of every kind strewed upon the ground in wild
confusion, like the bodies of prostrate warriors
after some terrific and murderous battle. The
enchanting little settlement at Arorangi was
also a heap of ruins. The school-house, how
ever, had not been completely destroyed, and
this the natives contrived to repair by the Sab
bath ; so that we had a comfortable house in
which to worship. I endeavoured to improve
the awful catastrophe, by speaking from that
beautiful passage in the 32nd chapter of Isaiah,
2nd verse: — "And a man shall be as an hiding
place from the wind, and a covert from the tem
pest," &c. &c.
How true are the poet's words—
" Woes cluster ; rare are solitary woes."
On the following Saturday we were called to
mourn over the loss of our seventh dear babe.

104

A TRYING DISPENSATION— GREAT FEAST.

The shock sustained by Mrs. Williams on the
day of the hurricane had occasioned its death
before it was bom ; and the season of her mater
nal sufferings was tedious, distressing, and
dangerous. God, however, in judgment re
membered mercy. Although prior to the birth
of the babe, and for some time after, the life of
tlie mother appeared nearly extinct, in the
course of a few hours she revived a little, and
we were cheered by the prospect of her sur
viving. We had entertained fond hopes that
this dear babe would have been spared to us,
but in this we were again disappointed ; and,
while we endeavoured to bow with submission
to the will of an all-wise and gracious Father,
we found it difficult to restrain the tear of
parental affection ; and even now, when we
speak of our seven dear infants, whose little
bodies are slumbering in different isles of the
far distant seas, our tenderest emotions are en
kindled, but our murmurings are hushed into
silence by the sweet conviction that they are
gone before us to heaven. Just before the lid of
the little coffin was fastened down, all assembled
to take a last look, when our feelings were much
excited by an expression of our then youngest
child, who at that time was about five years of
age. Thinking in the native language, and
speaking in English, after looking intensely at
the beauteous form of the lifeless babe, he burst
into tears, and in accents of sweet simplicity,
cried out, " Father, mother, why do you plant
my little brother ? don't plant him, I cannot bear
to have him planted." Our kind and beloved
friends mingled their tenderest sympathies in
our affliction, and did everything that the sin-
cerest affection could suggest to alleviate our
distress. I wrote a letter to inform Makea of the cir
cumstance, when he immediately collected all
the people of his settlement, and accompanied
them to Ngatangiia, to condole with us in our
affliction. No individual came empty-handed ;
some brought mats, others pieces of cloth, and
others articles of food, which they presented as
an expression of their sympathy. A few of the
principal women went in to see Mrs. Williams,
laid their little presents at her feet, and wept
over her, according to their custom. The affec
tion of this kind people remains unabated. In
a recent visit paid to Rarotonga by my esteemed
colleague, Mr. Barff, he perceived that the con
gregation of three thousand people to whom he
preached were all habited in black clothing.*
Upon inquiring the reason of this unusual and
dismal attire, he was informed by Mr. Buzacott
that, on the recent death of his little girl, the
king and chiefs requested that they and their
people might be permitted to wear mourning, as
they did not wish to appear in their ordinary gay
habiliments while the family of their Missionary
was in affliction. Such an instance of delicate
respect could scarcely have been expected from a
people, who twelve years before were cannibals,
and addicted to every vice.
^ * Made from the paper-mulberry, morus Cllinemis, and.
coloured with preparations from the candle -nut aleurites
triloba.

On the following night two more disasters
befell us, which, although of a different character,
and not to be compared with those I have enu
merated, were still rendered important by the
circumstances in which we were placed. I had
taken with m'e from Raiatea a cask of cocoa-nut
oil, holding one hundred and eighty gallons, for
the purpose of making chunam, to put on the
bottom of the vessel instead of copper, to protect
it from worms, and render it water-tight ; but a
worthless young man, in stealing a portion of it,
having neglected to drive in a spile, it all ran
out, and there being now, in consequence of the
hurricane, very few cocoa-nuts at Raratonga, I
had no means of obtaining a fresh supply. The
second misfortune was the loss of my best boat,
worth at least £20. This was stolen in the
night by four men and a woman, who went in
her to sea. I have no doubt but that they
perished, for, as the wind then blew, it would
drive them in a direction where there was no
land for thousands of miles. Thus drearily
closed the eventful year 1831 .
The chiefs and people of Mr. Pitman's station
undertook to return, on my behalf, the compli
ment which Makea and his party had paid to
me, who, with ourselves, had hoped that the
child would have lived, and that it would have
proved a visit of congratulation, instead of
condolence. About three hundred pigs were
killed for the occasion, some of which were
very large, and all of them baked whole.
The vegetable food was not proportionate in
quantity, nearly all having been destroyed by
the hurricane. The whole of this was presented
in my name to Makea, and there was much that
was novel and singular in the distribution of the
food. Great ceremony was observed ; and it
was divided into ten portions, placed in a row,
according to the number of countries and islands
which were to share in the sumptuous provision
of the day. The first was assigned by the orator
to William IV., the great king of Britain. Mr.
Pitman, Mr. Buzacott, and myself, being En
glishmen, were looked upon as his Majesty's
representatives, and of course had the honour of
taking his portion. The speaker, assuming an
oratorical attitude, then shouted with a stento
rian voice, that the next portion was for the
" great chief of America." As the mate of my
vessel was of that country, and was looked upon
as the representative of the President, he took
possession of this portion. The kings of
Hawaii, Tahiti, Raiatea,. Aitutaki, Mangaia,
and Tongatabu, then came in for their shares ;
and individuals .from these various islands, as
soon as the orator had announced their names,
stepped forward to receive them. The scene
altogether was far from being destitute of inter
est. A few days after the kind-hearted native
teacher Papeiha, and his wife, with Tinomana
the chief, and nearly all the people of the Aro
rangi station, came in like manner to pay their
respects to us.
Between two and three months elapsed be
fore we could do much to the vessel, as the
natives were fully employed in erecting their
dwellings and performing the public work. We

THE VESSEL REPAIRED— NATIVE LETTER.

105

therefore devoted our time to the translations.
At length we commenced with great spirit, and
in the month of May the repairs and alterations
were completed, and the vessel was ready to be
launched. But, before she could again float
upon her own element, we had to lift her out
of a hole, and drag her several hundred yards
over a swamp. And here our ingenuity was
put to the test. The method, however, by
which we contrived to raise the vessel, was ex
ceedingly simple, and by it we were enabled to
accomplish the task with great ease. Long
levers were passed under her keel, with the
fulcrum so fixed as to give them an elevation of
about forty-five degrees. The ends of these
were then fastened together, with several cross
beams, upon which a quantity of stones were
placed, the weight of which gradually elevated
one end of the vessel until the levers reached
the ground. Propping up the bow thus raised,
we shifted our levers to the stern, which was in
like manner elevated, and, by repeating this
process three or four times, we lifted her in one
day entirely out of the hole. The bog was
then filled up with stones, logs of wood were
laid across it, rollers were placed under the
vessel, the chain cable passed round her, and,
by the united strength of about two thousand
people, she was compelled to take a short voyage
upon the land, before she floated in her pride
upon the sea.
Having been detained so much longer than
I anticipated, we were not able, from Want of
provisions, to proceed at once to the Navigators'
Islands ; and, as our friends at Rarotonga were
in necessitous circumstances, we were compelled
iu the first place to visit Tahiti. Accompanied
by Mr. Buzacott, we sailed for the Society
Islands, where our brethren gave us a most
hearty welcome. They had been very anxious
on our account ; for, in addition to my long ab
sence and the terrible hurricane, which they
also had experienced, newspapers had been re
ceived from Sidney, stating that portions of a
vessel, which appeared by the description to
answer to ours, had been seen floating about
near the Navigators' Islands, which had excited
their serious apprehensions for our safety. On
arriving at Tahiti we heard such distressing
tidings of the state of Raiatea, as rendered it de
sirable that I should, if possible, spend a month
there, while Mr. Buzacott remained at Tahiti,
and employed his time in assisting Mr. Darling
to print for him the Epistles of St. Peter, and in
acquiring a little knowledge ofthe art.
On arriving at Raiatea, I was perfectly
astounded at beholding the scenes of drunken
ness which prevailed in my formerly flourishing
station. There were scarcely a hundred people
who had not disgraced themselves ; and persons
who had made a consistent profession of reli
gion for years had been drawn into the vortex.
The son and successor of old Tamatoa was a
very dissipated young man, and when he suc
ceeded to the government, instead of following
his father's good example, he sanctioned the
introduction of ardent spirits. Encouraged by
him, and taking advantage cf my absence, a

trading captain brought a small cask on shore,
and sold it to the natives. This revived their
dormant appetite, and like pent-up waters, the
disposition burst forth, and, with the impetuosity
of a resistless torrent, carried the people before
it, so that they appeared maddened with infatu
ation. I could scarcely imagine that they were
the same persons among whom I had lived so
long, and of whom I had thought so highly.
As the small cask which had been imported
was sufficient only to awaken the desire for
more, they had actually prepared nearly twenty
stills, which were in active operation when I
arrived. A meeting was immediately called,
which I was requested to attend, when resolu
tions were passed that all the stills should forth
with be destroyed. A new judge was nomi
nated, the laws were re-established, and persons
selected to go round the island, and carry the
resolutions into effect. In some districts these
met with considerable opposition, but in others
they succeeded without difficulty. The follow
ing week they were dispatched again, when
they destroyed several more ; but in , their last
journey they were accompanied by the late ex
cellent Maihara, of Huahine, the favourite
daughter of our good old king, who had come
to Raiatea, with some respectable officers from
her own island, for the purpose of completing
the destruction of the stills. This they happily
accomplished ; for, on their return from their
last circuit ofthe island, they reported that every
still was demolished, and every still-house burnt
to the ground. Some of the natives, however,
determined to purchase ardent spirits from the
ships ; while the majority wished me to form a
Temperance Society, with a view to its entire
abolition ; but, as I could not remain to super
intend its operation, I did not think it advisable
to accede to their request. This, however, has
been effected since I left ; and a letter, just re
ceived from the formerly dissipated young chief,
afforded me much satisfaction. It is dated
Raiatea, April 30, 1836 :—
" Dear Friend,
" Blessing on you, Mr. AVilliams, from
the true God, through Jesus Christ, the King of
Peace, the Saviour in whom alone we can be
saved. "This is my little communication to you.
The spirits about which your thoughts were
evil towards me, I have entirely done away
with, because my heart is sick of that bad path,
and I am now ' pressing towards the mark for
the prize of my high calling.' These are now
my thoughts, that God may become my own
God. This is really my wish. I am commend
ing myself to God and to the word of his grace,"
&c, &c.
Whether there be a real change of heart or
not in this individual, I cannot say, but I am
truly thankful— and in this feeling every friend
of missions will participate — that the people,
with their chief, have been brought to see their
folly, and abandon the use of that which was
unfitting them for earth and heaven, by render
ing them poor, profligate, and miserable. The

106

INTRODUCTION OF CATTLE— THE ROUTE DETERMINED.

circumstances under which the use of ardent
spirits was abandoned at Tahiti were of the most
interesting character. The evil had become so
alarming that the Missionaries felt that some
thing must be attempted, and therefore deter
mined to set the people an example, by abstain
ing entirely from the use of ardent spirits, and
by forming Temperance Societies. These worked
exceedingly well, especially at Papara, the
station occupied by our venerable and inde
fatigable brother, Mr. Davis. The beneficial
results were so apparent to the natives them
selves, that all the inhabitants of the district
agreed that no ardent spirits should be intro
duced into their settlement. Most of the people
of the other districts, observing their prosperity,
followed their example. At this time the par
liament met ; for, since they have been brought
under the influence of Christianity, the repre
sentative form of government has been adopted.
On this occasion, and before the members pro
ceeded to business, they sent a message to the
queen to know upon what principles they were
to act. She returned a copy of the New Testa
ment, saying, " Let the principles contained in
that book be the foundation of all your proceed
ings;" and immediately they enacted a law to
prohibit trading with any vessel which brought
ardent spirits for sale ; and now there is but one
island in the group, Porapora, where these are
allowed. Having accomplished at Raiatea the destruc
tion of the stills, and the re-establishment of
law and order, we prepared to depart for Raro
tonga, having on board a valuable cargo, con
sisting of several barrels of flour, which we
very opportunely procured from an American
ship, and other provisions for our necessitous
families ; together with horses, asses, and cattle.
The two former excited the unbounded astonish
ment of the natives. Like their brethren of the
Tahitian islands, they called them all pigs. The
horse was e buaka apa tangata, the great pig that
carries the man ; the dog they called e buaka aoa,
or the barking pig ; and the ass, ebuaka turituri, or
the noisy pig. This last, however, was honoured
¦with another name, which was, e buaka ta-
ringa roa, or the long-eared pig. The horses
and asses have greatly facilitated the labours of
the Missionaries, arid the cattle have proved an
invaluable addition to the comforts ofthe mission
families.* * It was upwards of ten years after our arrival in the
islands before we tasted beef; and, when we killed our
first os, the mission families from the adjacent islands met
at our house to enjoy the treat ; but, to our mortification,
we had so entirely lost the relish, that none of us could
bear either the taste or smell of it. One of the Mission
aries' wives burst into tears, and lamented bitterly that
she should become so barbarous as to have lostherrelish
for English beef.

CHAPTER XXIV.
Second Visit to the Navigators — Te-ava's Prayer — Arri
val at Manua — Salutations of the People — Find some
Raivavaiaus— Orosenga and Ofu — The desire every
where expressed for Missionaries — Sail for Tutuila —
Interesting Interview at Leone Bay — The Author car
ried on snore — A Chief prays upon the Deck — Run
away Sailors baptizing the People.
After landing our stores at Rarotonga, Te-
ava, a pious and intelligent member of Mr.
Buzacott's church, was set apart to the im
portant office of a missionary ; being designed
for the station of Manono, the island of which
the gigantic Matetau, to whom I promised a
teacher, was chief. Makea also was anxious to
accompany me. Hoping that many advan
tages might result from his presence, we readily
acceded to his wish. Everything being ready,
on Thursday evening, October 11, 1832, we
directed our course once more for the Samoa
Islands. On the following Tuesday I requested Te-
ava to conduct our morning's devotions ; and,
being much pleased with the novelty and ex
cellency of his prayer, and the pious fervour of
his manner, I wrote it down immediately after,
and have preserved the following extract : —
" If we fly up to heaven, we shall find thee
there ; if we dwell upon the land, thou art
there ; if we sail upon the sea, thou art there ;
and this affords us comfort ; so that we sail
upon the ocean without fear, because thou, 0
God, art in our ship. The king of our bodies
has his subjects, to whom he issues his orders :
but, if he himself goes with them, his presence
stimulates their zeal ; they begin it with energy,
they do it soon, they do it well. O Lord, thou
art the King of our spirits ; thou hast issued
orders to thy subjects to do a great work ; thou
hast commanded them to go into all the world,
and preach the Gospel to every creature : we,
O Lord, are going upon that errand ; and let
thy presence go with us to quicken us, and en
able us to persevere in the great work until we
die. Thou hast said that thy presence shall go
with thy people, even unto the end of the world.
Fulfil, O Lord, to us this cheering promise. I
see, 0 Lord, a compass in this vessel, by which
the shipmen steer the right way ; do thou be
our compass to direct us in the right course,
that we may escape obstructions and dangers in
our work. Be to us, O Lord, the compass of
salvation." On our former voyages we visited only two
of the islands, Savaii and Upolu, the largest in
the cluster, but the farthest west. On this, I
determined to touch at every island in the
group ; and, as we were sailing from the east,
I resolved to take them in rotation.
On the morning of the 17th we descried land ;
having run a distance of nearly eight hundred
miles in five days, without having had occasion
to shift our sails since we bid adieu to our
friends at Rarotonga. Thus pleasant is it, fre
quently, to sail westward, wafted by the trade-
winds of tropical climes. The land we saw
proved to be the island of Manua, the most
easterly of the Samoa group, and about two

ARRIVE AT MANUA— INTERESTING INTERVIEW.

107

hundred and fifty miles from that on which our
Missionaries were residing. On nearing the
shore, a number of canoes approached us, in
one of which some natives stood up and shouted,
"We are Christians, we are Christians;* we
are waiting for a falau lotu, a religion-ship, to
bring us some people whom they call Mis
sionaries, to tell us about Jesus Christ. Is
yours the ship we are waiting for?" This was
a delightful salutation, and showed that the
knowledge of the Gospel had preceded us. A
fine-looking man now sprang on board, and in
troduced himself as a Christian, or " Son of
the word." On learning that ours was " a re
ligion-ship," he expressed himself highly de
lighted, and ordered his people to present us
with all the cocoa-nuts and other food that was
in the canoe. He then asked us for a Mis
sionary ; and, upon being informed that we had
only one, and that he was intended for Matetau,
of Manono, he manifested deep regret, and
begged that I would supply him as soon as pos
sible.- We gave him a trifling present and some
elementary books, said a few words of en
couragement, and bade him adieu; promising
to bring him a Missionary as soon as circum
stances would permit.
Our boat now returned to the ship, convey
ing a native of the island of Raivavae, which
lies about three hundred and fifty miles south
of Tahiti. On expressing my surprise at see
ing him there, a distance of about two thousand
miles from his home, he informed me that he
and his party were returning in a boat from the
neighbouring island of Tupuai, when they lost
their way, and were driven about at sea for
nearly three months, during which distressing
period twenty of their number died. It ap
peared from their statement that they had erected
a chapel, and since their arrival had been re
gular in their observance of the ordinances of
the Christian worship ; that Hura was their
teacher, and that most of them could read the
eight portions of the Tahitian Scriptures, which
they had carefully preserved, and highly valued.
Just as we were leaving Manua, a fine young
man stepped on board our vessel, and requested
me to give him a passage to Tutuila, a large
island about forty miles distant. He stated
that he was a Christian,, and that he wished
much to carry to the people of his own island
the good news of which he was in possession.
I, of course, readily acceded to his request.
Leaving Manua, we sailed over to Orosenga
and Ofu, two islands separated by a narrow
channel, about two miles from Manua. On
entering the bay a canoe came off, having on
board an old chief. We inquired whether he
had heard of the new religion, which was making
such progress at Savaii and Upolu, and, upon
being .answered in the negative, we told him
our object in visiting the Samoa Islands.
Having listened with apparent surprise, he
earnestly entreated me to leave him a teacher,
promising to treat him with the greatest kind
ness and to " give him plenty to eat." Find-
* The phrase ihey used was, literally, " Sons of the
word."

ing that this was impossible, he begged for one
of my native sailors, as a hostage, to insure my
return. He also importuned me to remain
with him a few days ; but this I declined, being
anxious to reach Savaii by the Sabbath. He was
urgent that I should supply him with a mus
ket and powder ; but I informed him, that ours
was a " religion-ship" and that we had books
to teach men the knowledge of the true God,
and the way of salvation, but no muskets, with
which they might destroy each other. I then
pressed him to abandon his barbarous wars,*
and become a worshipper of Jehovah, whose
religion was one of peace and mercy. This,
the old chieftain said, was very good, and pleased
his heart ; but, as he had no one to teach them,
how was he to know ? Having made our visiter
a trifling present, -we directed our course for
Tutuila. Early the following morning we made Tu
tuila, and were very soon surrounded by a vast
number of canoes, some of which contained
twenty or thirty men. These appeared so ex
cessively wild that we did not suffer many of
them to board us. This, however, we could
scarcely prevent ; for, although we were sailing
seven or eight miles an hour, they paddled so
fast that they kept pace with us, clung to the
side of the vessel, and were so expert, that, not
withstanding our precautions, they sprang on
board the ship. Acanoenow came alongsidewith
an Englishman, who called himself William
Gray, and said that he had been at Tutuila
about three years. As the natives were very
clarnorous for powder and muskets, we inquired
of Gray whether they were at war, and found
that two powerful chiefs were expected shortly
to engage in a severe conflict. Upon asking
him whether the people of Tutuila had heard
of our Missionaries, and had become Christians,
he informed me that very many had renounced
heathenism at Savaii and Upolu ; biit that only
a few had done so at Tutuila.
Having obtained all the information we could
from this individual, we prosecuted our voyage
down the south coast, the varied beauties of
which struck us with surprise and delight as
we glided past them. At length we reached a
district called Leone, where the young man
whom we had brought from Manua resided.
On entering the mouth of the spacious and
beautiful bay, we were boarded by a person
who introduced himself as a " Son ofthe word."
We gave him a hearty welcome, and learned, in
reply to our inquiries, that in his district about
fifty persons had embraced Christianity, had
erected a place of worship, and were anxiously
waiting my arrival. This information was un
expected and delightful, and I determined im
mediately to visit the spot. With this intent
we lowered our little boat, and approached
the shore When about twenty yards from the
beach, as the heathen presented rather a formi
dable appearance, I desired the native crew to
cease rowing, and unite with me in prayer,
which was our usual practice when exposed to
* The adjoining island is almost depopulated, the in
habitants having been slain by these people.

108

INTERESTING INTERVIEW.

danger. The chief, who stood in the centre of
the assembled multitude, supposing that we
were afraid to land, made the people sit down
under the grove of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and
other trees which girt the shore. He then
waded into the water nearly up to his neck,
and took hold ofthe boat, when, addressing me

in his native tongue, he said, " Son, will you
not come on shore ? will you not land amongst
us? " To this I replied, " I do not know tliat
I shall trust myself; I have heard a sad account
of you in this bay, that you have taken two
boats, and that you are exceedingly savage ; and
perhaps when you get me into your possession

you will either injure my person or demand a
ransom for my release." " Oh," he shouted,
" we are not savage now; we are Christians."
" You Christians ?" I said. "Where did you
hear of Christianity?" "Oh," he exclaimed,
" a great chief from the white man's country,

named Williams, came to Savaii, about twenty
moons ago, and placed some tama-fai-lotu,
' workers of religion,' there, and several of our
people who were there began, on their return,
to instruct their friends, many of whom have
become sons of the word. There they are ;

INTERESTING INTERVIEW— MORE CONVERTS.

109

don't you see them?" Looking in the direc
tion to which he pointed, I saw a group uf about
fifty persons seated under the wide-spreading
branches of large tou and other trees, apart from
those whom he had ordered to sit down along
the beach. Every one of this group had a piece
of white native cloth tied round his arm. I in
quired ofthe chief what this meant, when he
replied, " They are the Christians, and that cloth
is to distinguish them from their heathen coun
trymen." "Why," I immediately exclaimed,
" I am the person you allude to ; my name is
Williams. I took the workers of religion to
Savaii twenty moons ago?" The moment he
heard this, he made a signal to the multitude, who
sprang from their seats, rushed to the sea, seized
the boat, and carried both it and us to the shore.
Upon landing, Amoamo, the chief, took me by
the hand, and conducted me to the Christians ;
and, after the usual salutations, I inquired
where they had heard of Christianity. Upon
this, one of their number, rather more forward
than his brethren, replied that he had been
down to the " workers of religion," had brought
back some knowledge, and was now engaged in
imparting to his countrymen; "And there is
our chapel," said he, "don't you see it?"
Turning to the direction in which he pointed, I
saw a small rustic place of worship, which would
hold about eighty or a hundred people, peep
ing through the foliage of the bananas and bread
fruit trees in which it was embowered. Accom
panied by my loquacious friend and two or
three others, I asked him, on reaching the house,
who performed service there on Sabbath-day ?
To this he instantly replied, " I do." " And
who," inquired I, " has taught you ?" "Why,"
said he, " did you not see a little canoe by the
side of your boat, when we carried you on shore
just now? That is riiy canoe, in which I go
down to the teachers, get some religion, which
I bring carefully home, and give to the people ;
and, when that is gone, I take my canoe again,
and fetch some more. And now you are come,
for whom we have been so long waiting, where' s
our teacher ? Give me a man full of religion,
thatlmay not expose my life to danger by going
so "long a distance to fetch it." I was truly
grieved at beingcompelled to tell him that I had
no Missionary. On hearing this he was affected
almost to tears, and would scarcely believe me ;
for he imagined that the vessel was full of
Missionaries, and that I could easily supply the
demand. This, however, was impossible ; but
I trust that the day is not distant when Mis
sionaries will not be doled out as they now are,
but when their numbers will bear a nearer pro
portion to the wants of the heathen. And why
should not this be the case ? How many thou
sands of ships has England sent to foreign coun
tries to spread devastation and death ? The
money expended in building, equipping, and
supporting one of these, would- be sufficient,
with the Divine blessing, to convey Christianity,
with all its domestic comforts, its civilizing
effects, and spiritual advantages, to hundreds
and thousands of people.
It will not be supposed that these poor islanders

knew much about the principles of the religion
they had embraced, neither was there anything
in their dress or persons, except the piece of
white cloth round their arms, to distinguish
them from their heathen brethren : yet, rude and
unseemly as their appearance was, I could not
but look upon them with feelings of the liveliest
interest, and regard them as an earnest of the
complete victory that the Gospel would shortly ob
tain over the superstitions, the idolatries, and the
barbarities of the inhabitants of the whole group.
Another circumstance which added great
interest to this scene was, the striking contrast
between my reception and that of the unfor
tunate La Perouse ; for, if he be correct in the
name he has given to the bay, this was the same
in which his lamented comrade, M. De Langle,
and eleven of his crew, were most barbarously
murdered. After viewing their rude chapel, I accompanied
the chief to his dwelling, when I inquired if
he also had become a worshipper of Jehovah.
To this he replied in the negative ; but added,
"If you will, give me a worker of religion to
teach me, I will lisilisi (become a believer) im
mediately." It was with sincere regret that I
was compelled to say that it was out of my
power to do so ; but still I exhorted him to
unite with the Christians, and to give them all
the countenance he could. Thus were this
people, who had been esteemed most ferocious,
and who had ill-treated or massacred some of
the crews of all the vessels with which they had
intercourse, prepared to receive us.
On returning to the ship, I found that Makea
and our people had been much entertained by
natives from the adjoining valley, who were
anxiously waiting to present an earnest request
that I would pay them a visit. As soon as I
stepped on board the chief seized me most cor
dially ; but, esteeming me greater than himself,
he only rubbed his nose on my hand. He then
assured me that he and nearly all his people
were Christians ; that they had erected a spa
cious place of worship, in imitation of the one
built by the teachers at Sapapalii, from which
place he had lately come, and brought the lotu;
and that he was daily engaged in teaching his
people what he himself had been taught by the
Missionaries. Upon my saying that, from my
knowledge of the native character, I did not
place implicit confidence in all that I heard, he
adopted a most effectual method of convincing
me of the truth of his assertions ; for, placing
his hands before him in the form of a book, he
recited a chapter out of our Tahitian primer,
partly in the Tahitian dialect and partly in the
Samoan ; after which he said, " Let us pray ;"
and, kneeling down upon our little quarter
deck, he repeated the Lord's Prayer in broken
Tahitian. The artless simplicity and apparent
sincerity of this individual pleased us exceed
ingly. We gave him , some elementary books,
made him a trifling present, and promised, if
possible, to call and spend a day or two with
him on our return from Savaii.
On the following day we reached Upolu, when
natives from various parts of the island ap-

110

ENGLISH SAILORS BAPTIZE SOME NATIVES.

proached us saying that they were " Sons of
the Word," and that they were waiting for the
" religion-ship of Mr. Williams to bring them
Missionaries." In one of these we perceived
two Englishmen. Upon being admitted on
board, and learning who I was, thinking that
it would afford me pleasure, they began to de
scribe their exploits in turning people religion,
as they termed it. Wishing to obtain all the
information I could from these men, I inquired
the number of their converts, which they stated
to be between two and three hundred; and,
having asked how they effected their object,
one of them said, " Why, Sir, I goes about and
talks to the people, and tells 'em that our God is
good, and theirs is bad ; and, when they listens
to me, I makes 'em religion, and baptizes 'em."
"Sure," I exclaimed, "you baptize them do
you? how do you perform that?" "Why, Sir,"
he answered, " I takes water, and dips my
hands in it, and crosses them in their foreheads
and in their breasts, and then I reads a bit of a
prayer to 'em in English." " Of course," I
said, "they understand you." ."No," he re
joined, " but they says they knows it does 'em
good." In addition to this, I found that these two in
dividuals had pretended to heal the sick, by
reading a " bit of a prayer" over them, for
which they extorted property from the people.
I remonstrated with them upon the fearful
wickedness of their conduct ; and they promised
that they would not again pursue such a course.
This is only a specimen of many similar inter
views which we had with persons of the same
class, and shows the great importance of
Christian exertion on behalf of British seamen.

CHAPTER XXV.

Arrival at Manono— Joy of Matetau — Reach Savaii —
Sabbath Services there — Malietoa's Address — Inter
view between Makea and Malietoa — An important
Meeting held— Makea's Speech — Malietoa's replies to
the Author's Questions — The Teacher's Narrative —
Consultation with the Teachers — Advice given upon
various important topics— Snakes — Earthquakes.
On Saturday afternoon we reached Manono,
and, as we were passing this little garden island,
my colossal friend, Matetau, came off to us.
After embracing me cordially, and rubbing
noses quite as long as was agreeable, he said,
" Where's my Missionary? I have not forgot
ten your promise." " No more have I," was my
rejoinder ; " here he is." I then introduced
Te-ava and his wife, when he seized them with
delight, saluted their noses with a long and
hearty rub, and exclaimed, lelei, lelei, lava,
," good, very good ; I am happy now." Having
stated to the chief that I was anxious to reach
the Missionary station before dark, and that he
must either accompany me and return in a few
days, or go on shore, he said, " I must hasten
back to tell my people the good news, that you
have come and brought the promised Mission
ary." Again rubbing my nose, he stepped into
his canoe, and, skimming over the billows,
sailed towards the shore, shouting, as he ap

proached it, that Mr. Williams had brought
them their Missionary.
We reached the station of Malietoa about
five o'clock, when the teachers and people
manifested extravagant joy at seeing us. As
the twelve months during which we had pro
mised to return had elapsed, they had enter
tained fears lest they should never see me again.
When I informed them that my detention had
been occasioned by the dreadful hurricane we
had experienced at Rarotonga, they stated that
it had extended to all the Navigators' Islands,
and had been most destructive in its ravages.
After the first expressions of joy, which
South Sea Islanders invariably show byweep-
ing, had subsided, I desired the teachers to
inform me what had occurred during the im
portant period of their residence among the
people, when I learned that Malietoa, his bro
ther, the principal chiefs, and nearly all the in
habitants of their settlement, had embraced
Christianity ; — that their chapel would accom-
date six or seven hundred people, and that
it was always full ; and that in the two large
islands of Savaii and Upolu the Gospel had
been introduced into more than thirty villages.
In addition to this, they stated that the great
body of the people were only waiting my arrival
to renounce their heathen system. This was
most delightful information, and drew forth
tears of gratitude to God, for having in so short
a time granted us such a rich reward.
As the old king, Malietoa, was from home,
catching wood- pigeons, a sport of which the
chiefs are extremely fond, a messenger was de
spatched to inform him of our arrival. At about
half-past six o'clock all the Missionaries left
home to visit numerous houses in the settle
ment, for the purpose of conducting family
worship : many of their converts not having
acquired sufficient knowledge to officiate them
selves. Although Malietoa was absent, I determined
to take up my residence at his house, knowing
that it would afford him pleasure to find me-
there on his return.
At about nine o'clock the next morning I
went to the chapel, accompanied by the teachers
and Makea. It was built in the Tahitian style,
but thatched with the leaves of the sugar-cane,
instead of the Pandanus. There were but few
seats in it, and the floor was covered with
plaited cocoa-nut leaves. The congregation con
sisted of about seven hundred persons, and,
notwithstanding their singularly uncultivated
and grotesque appearance, it was impossible to
view them without feelings of the liveliest in
terest, while with outstretched necks and open
mouths they listened to the important truths by
regarding which they would be delivered from
the appalling gloom in which they had for ages
been enveloped. Divine service was commenced
by a hymn in the Tahitian language, which was
sung by the teachers only. One of them then
read a chapter of the Tahitian Testament, trans
lated it into the Samoan dialect, and engaged
in prayer with great ease and fluency. This
concluded, I addressed to them a short dis-

ARRIVAL AT SAVAII— SABBATH AT SAVAII.

Ill

course, and, as I spoke in Tahitian, one of the
teachers acted as interpreter. My wild audience
appeared to listen with profound attention, and
conducted themselves with great propriety. Our
noble-looking chief, Makea, excited much in
terest, for in addition to his size and command
ing aspect, he was dressed in European costume,
with a red surtout which was presented to him
by Mrs. Buzacott just before our departure.
On returning home, I inquired of the teachers
why they had not taught the people to sing,
when they informed me that they began to do
so, but, as the females sang the hymns at their
dances, they thought it better to desist. On in
quiry, we learned that the teachers' wives had
also attempted to instruct the Samoa females in
the manufacture of white Tahitian cloth, of
which they had made large quantities for the
chiefs, but that the women were so idle that
they could not he induced to learn the art,
although the cloth was exceedingly admired.
We also found that they had unsuccessfully en
deavoured to persuade them, to cover the upper
part of their persons, of which they were ex
cessively vain. Indeed, they were continually
entreating the teachers' wives to lay aside their
European garments, and faasamoa, that is,
adopt the Samoa fashions, which was to gird a
shaggy mat around the loins, loop the corner
of it on the right side, anoint themselves pro
fusely with scented oil, tinge themselves with
turmeric rouge, fasten a row of blue beads round
the neck, and faariaria, strut about and show
themselves ; and ithey enforced their wishes by
assuring them that, if they did so, all would
admire them.
At about one o'clock Malietoa arrived. He
was neatly dressed in a white shirt and waist
coat, and wore a beautifully-wrought mat as a
substitute for trousers. He looked exceedingly
well, and the contrast between his appearance
then and at our former interview, when he
came direct from scenes of war and bloodshed,
was very striking. After the usual salutation,
he expressed his sincere pleasure in again wel
coming me to the shores of Savaii, where they
had been most anxiously expecting me for
several months. Pie then said that it afforded
him the greatest satisfaction to be able to pre
sent to me all my people in health, and to say
that neither their persons nor property had suf
fered injury. He added that he was truly
thankful that the good word of Jehovah had
been brought to his islands, and that so many
had embraced it ; " and now," continued he,
with an animation which indicated his delight,
" all the people will follow ; for by your return
they will be convinced that the lotu is true, and
will believe the assurance ofthe teachers. For
my own part," he added, "my heart is single
in its desire to know the word of Jehovah."
After thanking him for so faithfully fulfilling
his promise, and explaining the cause of our
detention, I introduced my companion, Makea,
the king of Rarotonga. The old chieftain viewed
him with an eagle's eye, and, after various in
quiries, gave him a cordial welcome to his
island, and complimented him by saying that

he was the finest man he had ever beheld, and
was not to be equalled by any chief in the
Samoa group.
In the afternoon I preached to a congrega
tion of not less than a thousand persons, and
found it a delightful employment to tell the
wonderful story of redeeming love to a multi
tude on whom the light of the Gospel was just
beginning to dawn ; and earnestly did I pray
that soon " they might be able, with all saints,
to comprehend the breadth, and length, and
depth, and height, of that love which passeth
knowledge." At the conclusion of the service one of the
teachers arose, and thus addressed the assembly :
"Friends, for a long time we have been subject
to ridicule ; and some have even represented us
as deceivers, and endeavoured to confirm their
representations by saying, ' Where is Mr. Wil
liams ? he will never return : if he comes again
we will believe.' Here, then, is our minister,
for whom you have been waiting ; you can ask
him any questions you please, in confirmation
of what we have told you. Moreover, there is
an impostor * who has taught the people to
keep Saturday as the sacred day, and- some of
you have listened to his advice. Here is our
minister from England, the dwelling-place of
knowledge ; he and his brother Missionaries are
the fountains from which its streams have flowed
through these islands. Ask him, now, respect
ing the points concerning which you have
doubted. He is our root."
In reply to this address, Malietoa, after a
short interval, came forward, and delivered a
most sensible speech, the substance of which
was, that the Missionaries should not regard
what any insignificant person might say, and
that he hoped all suspicious feeling would sub
side ; " for surely," he exclaimed, " they will
now be convinced that what they have heard is
the truth. Let all Savaii, all Upolu, embrace
this great religion; and as to myself," he said,
" my whole soul shall be given to the word of
Jehovah, and my utmost endeavours employed
that it may speedily encircle the land." At the
conclusion ofthe chief's address, I desired one
of the teachers to inform the people that, as I
expected to remain with them a week or a fort
night, I should feel much pleasure, either pub
licly or privately, in answering any inquiries.
It was therefore arranged that a public meeting
should be convened on the following day. We
spent the evening of this memorable Sabbath
very profitably, in dedicating two of the Mis
sionaries' children, born upon the island, to
God in baptism.
The teachers expressed a wish that the service
might be private, lest the Samoans, who imi
tated everything they saw, should do the same
to their own children. After this the teachers
went, as usual, to a number of houses in the
settlement to conduct family worship, and I
• This individual was a native of Upolu, and had
visited Tahati, where he had obtained a little knowledge
of Christianity ; and being an artful fellow, he had, like
the runaway sailors, taken advantage of the general ex
citement, and had practised much deceit upon the people-

112

THE MEETING— MALIETOA'S ADDRESS.

ha

employed the interval in composing two or
three hymns in the Samoa language.
Early on Monday morning, a present of pigs,
bread-fruit, &c, was brought to us, and at ten
o'clock a messenger came to request our attend
ance at a meeting convened in the large public
building. On our arrival we found it com
pletely filled within, and surrounded by a crowd
who could not gain admission. A vacant space
was preserved in the centre for Makea and my
self. Malietoa was seated opposite to us, at a
distance of several yards, when, after exchanging
salutations, I told him that I had come according
to my promise, and that I was exceedingly de
lighted to find that he had fulfilled all his en
gagements, and had, with so many of his people,
embraced Christianity. To this the old chieftain
made a long and sensible reply, after which
Makea entertained and delighted the people
with an account of the introduction and effects
of Christianity at Rarotonga. " Now," he said,
" we enjoy happiness, to which our ancestors
were strangers : our ferocious wars have ceased ;
our houses are the abodes of comfort ; we have
European property ; books in our own language ;
our children can read ; and, above all, we know
the true God, and the way of salvation by his
son Jesus Christ." He concluded his important
and most effective address by earnestly exhort
ing Malietoa and his brother chiefs to grasp
with a firm hold the word of Jehovah ; "for this
alone," he added, " can make you a peaceable
and happy people. I should have died a savage
had it not been for the Gospel."
Makea's address produced a most powerful
impression. His appearance convinced every
one that he was a great chief; and his colour,
that he was one of their own people ; and, in
their estimation, he was more splendidly attired
than any European they had ever seen," which
they attributed to his having become a worship
per of Jehovah. In reply, Malietoa stated his
full conviction of the advantage which would
grow out of the good word. " We," he said,
" should never have known each other but for
that word." He then declared his strong at
tachment to Christianity, and his determination
to hold it with a firm grasp, as Makea had ex
horted him. Encouraged by this, I informed
Malietoa and his people that the Christians in
England with whom I was connected were wil
ling to send English Missionaries, if they sin
cerely desired to receive them ; and I therefore
wanted an explicit declaration of their wishes,
as they had had sufficient time to form an opi
nion of the spirit and principles of Christianity.
To this Malietoa instantly replied, with most
emphatic energy, " We are one ; we are only
one ; we are thoroughly one in our determina
tion to be Christians." Proceeding with my
interrogatories, I said, "What is your wish?"
but, full of bis subject, before I finished my
question, he replied, " Our wish is that you
should fetch your family, and come and live
and die with us, to tell us about Jehovah, and
teach us how to love Jesus Christ." I said,
* Makea wore his red surtout which Mrs. Buzacott
had kiudly made and presented to him.

" But I am only one, and there are eight islands
in the group, and the people are so numerous,
that the work is too great for any individual ;
and my proposition is, that I return immedi
ately to my native country, and inform my bro
ther Christians of your anxiety to be instructed."
" Well," replied the chieftain, " go, go with
speed ; obtain all the Missionaries you can, and
come again as soon as possible ; but we shall be
dead, many of us will be dead, before you re
turn." There was something to my mind thril-
lingly affecting in the above expression; and
callous indeed must have been the individual
who could witness such a scene, and listen to
such sentiments, without emotion. I went on
to state that, as the English Missionaries would
have wives and property, I wished to ascertain
whether Malietoa would be able to protect them.
With an expression of surprise, and appearing
somewhat hurt, he inquired, " Why do you ask
that question ? have I not fulfilled my promises ?
I assured you that I would terminate the war as
soon as possible ; this I did, and there has been
no war since. I gave you my word that I would
assist in erecting a chapel ; it is finished. I told
you I would place myself under instruction, and
I have done so. Twenty moons ago you com
mitted your people, with their wives and chil
dren, and property, to my care ; now inquire
if, in any case, they have suffered injury. And
do you ask me whether I will protect English
Missionaries, the very persons we are so anxious
to have ? Why do you propose such a question?"
Feeling at once that I had committed myself, I
instantly replied, " You cannot suppose that I
ask for my own conviction : the faithful perform
ance of your promises is perfectly satisfactory to
my own mind ; but you know that the English
are a very wise people, and one of their first
questions, in reply to my application for Mis
sionaries, will be, ' Who is Malietoa ? and what
guarantee have you for the safety of our people ?'
And I wish to carry home your words, which will
be far more satisfactory than my own." " Oh !"
heexclaimed, "that is what you wish, is it?" and
significantly moving his hand from his mouth to
wards me, he said, " Here they are, take them ;
here they are, take them ; go, and procure for us
as many Missionaries as you can, and tell them
to come with confidence ; for, if they bring pro
perty enough to reach from the top of yonder high
mountain down to the sea-beach, and leave it
exposed from one year's end to another, not
a particle of it shall be touched." The chief
then requested me to state what was esteemed
sa, or bad, according to the principles of the
Christian religion, promising to abandon every
practice which the word of God condemned. In
reply I informed him that there were very many
things, the evil of which they would see as soon
as they were a little more enlightened ; and that
therefore our first object was to supply them
with knowledge. Still there were some prac
tices, the sinfulness of which I thought they
could not but perceive, although deficient in
Christian knowledge. I then referred to war,
revenge, adultery, theft, lying, cheating, their
obscene dances, and many of their pastimes,

SINGULAR EXPERIMENT— RENUNCIATION OF IDOLATRY.

113

and concluded by exhorting them .to be constant
in their attendance upon the teachers, who could
give them information upon all these topics,
having been under the instruction of myself and
my brother Missionaries for many years. Just
before the meeting dispersed, Malietoa stated to
the people that they might, in future, place con
fidence in the teachers, because my statements
and theirs were in perfect accordance. He
then requested me to bring the ship into the
harbour, and not to be in haste to leave them,
as their love would not soon abate. I was sorry,
however, to find that the harbour was too shal
low and full of rocks to allow us to anchor in it
To facilitate my intercourse with the na
tives, I embraced the first opportunity of ob
taining from the teachers a history of their pro
ceedings during their residence at the Samoas.
The whole of this was so interesting, that it is
with regret I omit any part of it ; but for want
of space I can only present the reader with a
few of the most striking particulars. Among
these, I may notice the reception of the Gospel
by Malietoa and bis family. Prior to the con
clusion of the war he sent one of his sons to as
sist the teachers in erecting the chapel. This
they completed a short time before the termi
nation of the disastrous conflict. On Malietoa's
return, the day was fixed for opening it ; but
just before that he called his family together,
most of whom had reached manhood, and stated
that he was about to fulfil his promise to me,
and become a worshipper of Jehovah. With
one accord they replied, that, if it was good for
him, it was equally so for them, and that they
would follow his example. But to this he ob
jected, and declared that if they did so he should
adhere to the old system. " Do you not know,"
he said, "that the gods will be enraged with me
for abandoning them, and endeavour to destroy
me ? and perhaps Jehovah may not have power
to protect me against the effects of their anger !
My proposition, therefore, is, that I should try
the experiment of becoming his worshipper;
and then, if he can protect me, you may with
safety 'follow my example ; but if not, I only
shall fall a victim to their vengeance — you will
be safe." The young men manifested great
reluctance to comply with this request, and
wished to know how long a time he required
to make this singular experiment. He informed
them that he desired a month or six weeks ; and,
after some debate, they unwillingly acquiesced
in his proposition. It was, however, a time of
general and intense excitement, and messengers
were frequently despatched to different parts of
the island, to announce the triumph of Jeho
vah's power. At the expiration of the third
week, however, the patience of the young men
was exhausted, and, going to their father, they
stated that he had tried his experiment suffi
ciently long, that no evil had befallen him, and
that therefore they would immediately follow
his example. He gave bis consent ; when not
only his relatives, but nearly all his people,
abandoned their heathen worship. This ap
peared to me a most singular and interesting
incident. In the first place, it evinced a noble
No. 8.

disinterestedness and great magnanimity in
Malietoa ; and also showed us that the watch
ful eye of God was open to all such events, and
that he governed them for the furtherance of
his purposes of mercy. Had any indisposition
befallen this chieftain during the time he was
thus " trying his experiments upon Jehovah's
power," an effectual barrier might have been
raised against the progress of the Gospel among
that people ; and, if Malietoa had died, our
teachers would very probably have fallen vic
tims to the fury of the heathen.
A day was immediately appointed on which
the young men should publicly renounce their
heathenism ; and, as the people generally have
no idols to destroy, they adopted rather a singu
lar ceremony in the abandonment of their
former system. In order to render this intelli
gible, I must inform the reader that every chief
of note has his etu. This was some species of
bird, fish, or reptile, in which the spirit of the
god was supposed to reside ; and, on this occa
sion, one of the class was cooked and eaten, by
which act, in the estimation of the natives, the
etu was so thoroughly desecrated that it could
never again be regarded as an object of reli
gious veneration. The first chief who embraced
the Gospel was a person whom the teachers met
when they visited Malietoa at the seat of war.
This individual, having been impressed with
their conversation, returned to his district, and
"helda. faita-linga, or consultation with his people.
The result of this was a request that the teachers
would come and be present at the ceremony of
renouncing his heathen worship. On their
arrival they found a large concourse of people,
and, after the usual salutations, the chief in
quired if they had brought with them a fish-
spear. They asked why he wanted that; when
he replied that his etu was an eel, and that
he wished one to be caught, that he might
eat it, in order to convince all of his sincerity.
An eel was therefore caught, and, being cooked,
was eaten by many who had formerly regarded
it as their etu. The teachers then wrote the
names of these in a book kept for that purpose,
delivered an address, and engaged in prayer.
This, I presume, gave rise to the custom, which,
since then, has been adopted by all who wished
to embrace Christianity. The etu of Malietoa's
sons was a fish called anae; and on the day ap
pointed a large party of friends and relatives
were invited to partake of the feast. A number
of anae having been dressed, and laid upon
newly-plucked leaves, the party seated them
selves around them, while one of the teachers
implored a blessing. A portion of the etu was
then placed before each individual, and with
trembling hearts they proceeded to devour the
sacred morsel. The superstitious fears of the
young men were so powerfully excited, lest the
etu. should gnaw their vitals, and cause death,
that they immediately retired from the feast,
and drank a large dose of cocoa-nut oil and salt
water, which was certainly a most effectual
method of preventing such an evil. The favour-
. able result of these experiments of the chief and
his sons decided the people of the settlement to
1

114

DESTRUCTION OF PAPOA— FORBEARANCE OF MALIEOTA.

place themselves at once under the instruction
of the teachers. Like the ancient Miletans,
they expected that the daring innovators would
have swollen, or fallen down dead suddenly;
but, seeing no harm come to them, they changed
their minds, and said that Jehovah was the true
God. Subsequently to this a large meeting was con
vened, to consult respecting the destruction of
Papo, which was nothing more than a piece of
old rotten matting, about three yards long, and
four inches in width ; but, as this was the god
of war, and always attached to the canoe of
their leader when they went forth to battle, it
was regarded with great veneration. At the
meeting in question, one person had the temerity
to propose that it should be thrown into a fire.
This, however, excited a burst of disapproba
tion; and it was ultimately agreed, that, as
drowning was a less horrible death than burning,
this should be his fate. For this purpose a new
canoe was launched, several chiefs of note were
selected, among whom was Fauea, the chief we
brought from Tongatabu ; and then, with great
ceremony, a stone was tied to Papo, and he
was placed on the canoe, to be consigned to a
watery grave. The teachers heard of this just
after the chiefs had left the shore, and imme
diately paddled off in another canoe, and suc
ceeded in overtaking the chiefs before Papo was
committed to the deep. They then requested
Fauea to give it to them, that they might re
serve it until I arrived, when they would pre
sent it to me ; and to this they agreed. On
reaching the island I came into possession of
this relic, and have placed it in the Missionary
Museum. The report of Papo's being drowned produced
a very general excitement, and, from that period
to the time of my arrival, applications from
Manono, Upolu, and all parts of Savaii, for
a visit from the teachers, had been incessant.
From some places, one or more intelhgent in
dividuals came and resided for a week or two
with the Missionaries, and carried from them
to their waiting countrymen the little informa
tion which they had obtained, and, when that
was exhausted, would return for a fresh supply.
One part of the conduct of the teachers ap
peared to me worthy of special commendation.
They had invariably refused to hold their reli
gious services in the large public buildings,
assigning, as a reason, the disgusting and in
famous character of the dances and amusements
conducted there. War had been often rumoured,
and several times it was on the eve of breaking
out. On one of these occasions, the heathen,
exasperated at Tangaloa for inviting a teacher
to reside at his settlement, threatened to attack
him if he was not sent away. As Tangaloa re
fused to do this they prepared for battle ; but,
as soon as they saw that Malietoa had come
with a large party of his followers to the assist
ance of his friend, they were intimidated and
withdrew. On another occasion, some of the
people of Manono threatened to put Malietoa
to death. He had gone over there to visit some
friends, when the chief who retained Tama-

fainga's head proposed to unite with him in ex
acting a general tribute for it. To this, how
ever, Malietoa objected, saying that he was a
worshipper of Jehovah, and that, with his con
sent, no tribute should be paid to.the head of
Tamafainga, nor a successor appointed. This
exasperated the interested party so much, that
they agreed to assassinate him. He heard of
this, and, after spending a few days with Mate
tau, returned home. The party expected to be
assailed immediately, and therefore sent their
women, children, and property to their fortress,
put themselves in an attitude of defence, and
waited anxiously during several weeks for the
anticipated attack. This, however, Malietoa
had no intention of making; but, had he not
embraced the Christian religion, nothing could
have prevented him from avenging the insult ;
for the individual who proposed to kill him had,
a few years before, put Malietoa's favourite
daughter to death in a most barbarous manner. He
happened to take her in war, and, being a fine
young person, and the daughter of a great chief,
he wished her to become his wife ; but to this
she would not consent, and it was also opposed
by his own people, who said that it was a base
thing in him to take by force the daughter of so
great a chieftain. Upon this he seized his club,
and, declaring that, if he did not have her, no
one else should, he struck her upon the head,
and killed her on the spot. Malietau had not
forgotten this, and his sons urged him to embrace
the present opportunity of avenging the death
of their sister ; but he replied that, having em
braced the lotu, which was a religion of peace,
he was determined, if possible, to live and die
under its influence.
The teachers informed me that they experi
enced much anxiety during, the existence of
these "rumours of wars," but that for two
months they had enjoyed tranquillity, and that
my expected arrival, together with the " new re
ligion," had engrossed the attention ofthe people.-
The remaining part of the day was spent in
conversing with the teachers upon various im
portant topics. One subject considered was,
the propriety of removing some of the Mission
aries to other parts of the island, or to Upolu ;
and, after much consultation, we determined
that they had better remain together at present,
and itinerate as much as practicable ; but, as
there was so much danger in sailing among the
islands in the Samoa canoes, it was resolved
that they should immediately build a large boat,
which they could accomplish with ease, as Te-
ava had brought with him a pair of smith's
bellows, and as I could furnish them with iron
and a saw. They completed their task in a few
weeks ; and the boat has proved invaluable in
the prosecution of their labours. As it was our
invariable practice to impart all the mechanical
knowledge we could to our native Missionaries,
before we took them to their stations, they ex
perienced no difficulty in effecting this important
object. A second topic was the erection of a
good substantial chapel, as a model for all the
other settlements. I gave a decided preference
to the Samoa buildings, as more substantial, and

INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEF'S WIVES— VISIT TO AMOA.

115

better adapted for places of worship, than the
Tahitian : the latter being long and narrow, the
former nearly round. Beside this, the natives
knew how to build their own houses, but not
such as the Tahitian, the erection of which the
teachers would be required not only to superin
tend, but in a great measure to complete with
their own hands. I also recommended them to
plaster it, to fix doors and Venetian windows,
and to cover the floor with good mats, in order
to impress the natives with tbe importance of
the object to which it was set apart. Another
very important point considered was, the extent
to which the teachers should advise the chiefs
who became Christians to interfere with the
amusements of the people. I gave it as my
opinion that they ought to prohibit all the ex
hibitions and amusements which were infamous
and obscene ; but that their sham fights, fencing
matches, exercise in darting the spear, pigeon-
catching, and other pastimes which were not
immoral, had better be tolerated ; persuaded
that, when the Christian religion was embraced
from a conviction of its spiritual nature and ex
cellence, those of them that were improper would
soon fall into disuse.
In the afternoon I was honoured with the
company of his majesty's five wives. Three of
these were about forty-five years of age, the
others were much younger. By my invitation
they seated themselves upon the ground, and,
after asking a blessing, they ate heartily and
cheerfully what was placed before them. In
the course of conversation, I found that a species
of serpent abounded in the Samoa Islands ;
and, having expressed a wish to take a specimen
with me to the Society islanders, who had never
seen one, the ladies immediately ran out of the
house, and returned about half an hour after
wards, each having a live snake twined about
her neck. The manners of these females were
pleasing ; and, while I gazed upon their good-
natured countenances, and listened to their
cheerful conversation, I could not but rejoice in
the hope, that the period had arrived when
they would be raised from the state of barbarous
vassalage into which sin and superstition had
sunk them. During the evening, while con
versing with the king and other persons of dis
tinction, I made some allusion to the dreadful
hurricane at Rarotonga, and found that, at the
Samoa Islands, it had raged with great fury,
accompanied by ¦¦>. violent shock of an earth
quake ; four of which, the teachers informed
me, had been experienced within the seventeen
months they had resided there. They also told
me that, during these shocks, the natives rushed
from their houses, threw themselves upon the
ground, gnawed the grass, tore up the earth,
and vociferated, in the most frantic manner, to
Mafuie to desist, lest he should shake the earth
• to pieces. Some said that- the devolo was angry
with them for allowing the lotu to be received
at their islands, and begged the teachers to hide
their Bibles until his rage had ceased. On
asking their opinion of this phenomenon, they
informed me that Tiitii ataranga supported the
island of Savaii with his left hand, and that, had

it been his right, long ago he would have shaken
it to pieces ; but that, in a quarrel with Mafuie,
the latter broke his left arm, which rendered it
feeble, and which accounts for the universal
weakness of that arm in men. Thus ignorant
are the heathen of the works as well as the word
of God!

CHAPTER XXVI.

Visit to Amoa— A beautiful Settlement— A Company of
Female Christians— Their Appearance— The Chapel
erected by themselves — Visit to Malava — Disagreement
between Matetau and Malietoa — An intelligent young
Chief — Sail for Manono — Curious Incidents on board —
Reconciliation effected between the Chiefs,
The following morning we left Sapapalii for
Amoa, a station about eight miles distant, at
which the inhabitants had built a chapel, and
were all receiving Christian instruction. In
going thither we passed through a settlement
called Safatulafai, which is one of the most
beautiful in the group, and which astonished
and delighted me. We could more easily have
imagined ourselves in an English park than in a
heathen village. A broad road of hard sand
ran through it; a spacious building for their
public business and amusements occupied tbe
centre ; and, at various distances, there were
lawns of beautiful greensward, which were ap
propriated to club fights, fencing, wrestling, and
hoxing matches. The pathway was over
shadowed by the wide-spreading branches of the
tamanue, and other gigantic trees, while the
neat houses of the inhabitants were partially
concealed by the foliage of the bread-fruit trees
and bananas, among which they were em
bowered. The settlement was kept in excellent
order, and had an air of respectability which
could not have been looked for among a people
in other respects so barbarous. Before we
reached Amoa we passed through two or three
other settlements, which, although large, were
inferior to Safatulafai. But what rendered
these most interesting was, that in one of them
a chapel was finished, and in a second the in
habitants were preparing to erect another.
After spending a short time with the chiefs, and
addressing to them a few words of encourage
ment, we proceeded on our journey, and reached
Amoa, which we found to be an extensive set
tlement, hut inferior in beauty to that through
which we had passed. It was governed, as is fre
quently the case, by two chiefs of nearly equal
rank. These were active young men, and very
zealous in the cause they had espoused ; and we
were gratified to learn that their example had
been followed by all tbe inhabitants. After
receiving the cordial welcome of chiefs and
people, we went to the chapel, and found
it rather a rough edifice, capable of accom
modating about four hundred persons. A
meeting was then held in the spacious public
building, which answered all the purposes of
town-halls in England. After several large
baked pigs had been presented to us, the chiefs
stated that they felt greatly honoured by our
presence, and that, had I not sent to apprize
i2

116

FEMALE CHRISTIANS— THEIR COSTUME.

them of my visit, they should have hastened to
Sapapalii. After my reply, they asked a variety of ques
tions, similar to those proposed at the meeting
with Malietoa: and just as this conversation
terminated, our attention was arrested by tbe
approach of about seventy females, bringing gifts,
and following each other in goose-like proces
sion. These were preceded by four men, each
of whom was bearing upon his shoulders a
baked pig. On entering the house, the men
approached Makea and myself, and deposited
their burdens at our feet. Each of the women
then laid down her present, and these were so
numerous, that, gigantic as my friend Makea
was, he and myself were speedily concealed by
the cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and yams, which
were heaped up before us. On removing a
portion from the top of the pile, that we might
catch a glimpse of our friends on the other side,
we perceived that the principal woman and her
daughter had seated themselves by the two
chiefs, one of whom she requested to be her
spokesman. Through him she stated, that they
had heard of my intention to come to Amoa ;
but as the Christians of her settlement were only
females, they could not expect to receive a visit
from so great a chief as myself, and had there
fore come to pay their respects to one from
whom they had received the word of Jehovah.
She then expressed her regret that their offering
was so small, and accounted for it by saying,
that none of their husbands had yet become
" sons of the word ;" but still she hoped that I
would accept it, as an expression of gratitude
for my having brought to them the knowledge
of salvation. This was a novel and interesting
event, and before replying to her address, I
asked the teachers what they knew about her
and her female friends. " Oh," said they, "we
know her well, her settlement is five miles
away, and some time ago she came and resided
with us a month, during which she was exceed
ingly diligent in her attendance on our instruc
tions. She then returned, collected all the
women of her district, and so interested them
by her statements, that very many have been in
duced to follow her example, and renounce
their heathen worship. From that time to tbe
present," they added, " she has been constant in
her periodical visits ; for as soon as her little
stock of knowledge is expended, she returns,
and stays with us a few days to obtain more,
which she treasures up, and carefully carries
back to herwaiting companions." The teachers
also told us that she had built a place of wor
ship, in which, when neither of them could
attend, this female chief conducted Divine ser
vice. After listening to this intelligence with
surprise and delight, I expressed to her the gra
tification I had derived from the interview, and
exhorted them all to be particularly circumspect
in their conduct, " that by their chaste conver
sation they might win their husbands" to Christ.
Having returned as handsome a present as I
could make, our interview closed. The whole
of the party presented a singular appearance ;
for although they had decorated themselves in

the very best style, and looked exceedingly
handsome, in the estimation of themselves and
their countrymen, we hoped that their ideas
upon this subject would soon beimproved. The
principal personage was tall and well propor
tioned. Her dress consisted of a shaggy mat,
dyed red, bound round her loins, which did not
reach below her knees. The upper part of her
person was uncovered, and anointed rather
freely with sweet-scented oil, slightly tinged
with turmeric rouge. Rows of large blue beads
decorated her neck, and formed bracelets for
her arms. Her head was shorn very bare, with
the exception of a single tuft about the size of a
crown-piece over the left temple. From this
hung a little lock of hair, about six inches in
length, which dangled carelessly about her
cheek. Several of the party were the unmarried
daughters of chiefs. - The costume of these
differed from that worn by the married women.
While both parties appeared equally proud of
their blue bead necklaces and bracelets, which
they valued as highly as English ladies do their
diamonds and pearls, the unmarried females
wore a white instead of a red mat, had dispensed
with the oil and turmeric, and retained a rich
profusion of graceful curls on one side of their
head, the other being shorn quite bare. Those
of inferior rank contented themselves with a
wreath of flowers, a little rouge and oil, a blue
bead or two about the neck, and a girdle of
fresh-gathered leaves. Their whole deportment
was consistent with modesty and propriety.
My time, during our stay at Savaii, was fully
occupied in paying visits similar to the above ;
but my limits forbid me to give an account of
them. I must therefore content myself with
presenting but one more specimen of my en
gagements at this place. This was a visit to
Malava, a settlement about eight miles from
Sapapalii. During our journey we passed
through one of the nuu devolo, devil's villages.
I thought, when I first heard the expression,
that it was an opprobrious term ; but upon
inquiry, I found that it was not so understood
by the natives ; for, on asking a man who had
not joined the Christian party, whether he was
a " son ofthe word," he replied, " No, I am a
man ofthe devil." This, with other circumstan
ces, convinced me that the term was used simply
for the sake of distinction, and not of reproach.
In passing through this village, I observed,
under the eaves of most of the houses, small
pieces of white cloth, which were designed to
intimate that a sacred ceremony was then being
observed within, and that no person must enter
the house upon pain of death.
On reaching Malava, we were conducted to
the "government house!" and here we were
met by the chief, who, after shading hands with
us, instead of rubbing noses, withdrew. He
was rather tall, about the middle age, and of
sedate appearance. As he wore a white shirt,
a finely wrought mat as a substitute for
trousers, and a hat, he presented a more civi
lised appearance than most of his brethren.
During his short absence, I learned from the
teachers that he was one of the few who appeared

ATTEMPT AT RECONCILIATION— AN INTERESTING CHIEF.

117

to be actuated by principle, and that in main
taining Ms profession he had evinced undaunted
courage. After about a quarter of air hour's
absence, he returned, accompanied by about a
hundred men and women, the former carrying
pigs and vegetables, and the latter pieces of
cloth; and, having seated himself, he said, " I
feel highly honoured by a visit from so great a
chief, a chief of religion. I am now a worshipper
of Jehovah, my heart and thoughts are in love
with the good word, and my sincere desire is,
that speedily it may spread through the land, and
that not a Faka-Devolo, a devil's man, may re
main." He then begged my acceptance of the
food, which had been prepared in expectation
of my coming ; when I expressed my thanks,
and the gratification with which I had heard his
sentiments ; adding, as I did not come there to
obtain property, of which we had plenty at
home, I would only accept of a little of the
food, and three or four pieces of the cloth, for
the purpose of showing their friends in England
what clothing they wore, but the rest he must
allow me to return. To this, however, he would
not listen. I therefore sent the food on board
the vessel, and presented the cloth to Makea,
Before the meeting terminated, the chief and
people of another settlement, about three miles
distant, came to beg for a Missionary ; and two
messengers from a large settlement, about six
miles further, on the same errand, and also to
solicit the honour of a visit. But although the
spirit was both willing and delighted, yet the
flesh was too weak to allow me to gratify them.
After this, we held an interesting religious ser
vice in their chapel, which was the largest and
best I had seen, with the exception of that at
Sapapalii, and would accommodate nearly five
hundred persons. This concluded, we returned
home, about ten o'clock at night, almost insen
sible to fatigue, from the pleasure we had en
joyed in the engagements of the day. Malava
was so important a station that the Missionaries
had consented to allow one of their number to
reside at it ; and as Boki had been instrumental
in the conversion of that people, he was selected
for the purpose.
On reaching home, my attention was called
to a circumstance which occasioned me a little
perplexity. For some months past, a serious
disagreement had existed between Malietoa and
Matetau of Monono ; and the teachers were
very anxious that they should be reconciled
before I left. In order to effect this, I had
despatched the vessel to fetch Matetau, sup
posing that he would esteem it an honour to have
an English ship sent for him ; but, unfortunately,
he refused to come. Upon hearing this, Malie
toa's indignation was aroused, and being con
vinced that the continued hostility of these
powerful chiefs would endanger the peace of the
islands, I determined, if possible, to effect a re
conciliation ; and with this view, proposed to
Malietoa that he and his brother Tuiano, with
two or three of the teachers, should accompany
me to Manono, whither I intended to convey
Te-ava, Matetau's Missionary. To this he at
first strongly objected ; but, after describing the

spirit of Christianity, as contrasted with that of
heathenism, and stating that it was honourable
in us and pleasing to God to be the first to seek
reconciliation, he instantly said, " Then I'll go,
we'll go to morrow."
This important point being settled, I prepared
to retire to rest ; but although it was' past mid
night, and I was excessively fatigued, I was
kept from reclining upon my welcome mat, by
the conversation of one of the most interesting
and intelligent young chiefs with whom I had
yet had intercourse. His name was Riromai-
ava. He was nearly related to Malietoa, and
esteemed by the old chieftain so highly that he
consulted him upon every subject of import
ance. He had just then returned from a jour
ney, and was impatiently waiting my arrival.
On entering the house, to my surprise, he
_saluted me in English, with " How do you do,
Sir ?" I instantly replied, " Very well, i thank
you, Sir ; how do you do ?" " Oh," he answered,
" me very well : me very glad to see you ; me
no see you long time ago ; me away in the bush
making fight ; oh ! plenty of the fight, too much
of the fight ! Me hear that white chief bring
the good word of Jehovah, me want plenty to
see you ; me heart say, ' How do you do ?', me
heart cry to see you." He further told me that
he had become a Christian, and added, that his
sincere desire was to know and love the word of
God. Upon inquiring whether he had learned
to read, he replied, that he had been trying for
several months, but that his " heart was too
much fool," and that he had not yet succeeded.
I encouraged him to persevere, and told him
that the knowledge of reading was so valuable
that no labour could be too great in order to its
acquisition. He assured me that hewould per
severe, and never be tired until he had mastered
it. After this he asked me a variety of questions
about England, the usages of civilised society,
the principles of Christianity, and numerous
other topics, which convinced me that he was
worthy of the esteem in which he was held, and
of the reputation he had obtained. Perceiving
that I was overcome with fatigue, he retired,
after requesting me to take a meal at his house
in the morning, before I sailed for Manono ;
and being so much interested with his intelli
gent conversation, I accepted his invitation. In
the course of the morning he gave me a fearful
account of the cruelties practised in the late
war ; and, having stated that very many of the
women, children, and infirm people were burned,
he exclaimed, in a pathetic manner, " Oh, my
countrymen, the Samoaman too much fool,
plenty wicked ; you don't know. Samoa great
fool, he kills the man, he fights the tree.
Bread-fruit tree, cocoa-nut tree, no fight us.
Oh ! tbe Samoa too much fool, too much
wicked." He then inquired very affectionately
after Mrs. VVilliams and my family ; and being
informed that I had two sons, called John and
Samuel, and that the age ofthe latter was about
that of his own little boy, he begged that he
might be allowed to give him that name : to
which I consented. He further entreated me to
fetch Mrs. Williams, and reside at Samoa, as he

118

SAIL FOR MANONO— A RECONCILIATION EFFECTED.

greatly desired to be poto (very wise), and had
never till then met with one who could give him
all the knowledge he desired. In reference to
Mrs. Williams and the children, he asked me if
" Williams woman and Williams boy " did not
grieve very much at my being so very far away
from them for so many months upon the sea ?
" Yes," I replied, " but Mrs. Williams is as
anxious as myself that the poor heathen should
know about Jesus Christ and salvation, and
i therefore willingly makes the sacrifice." With
tears in his eyes, he then exclaimed, "We
plenty sorry for them ; they must have plenty
of cry for you all these moons." After ex
changing presents, I took my leave of this intel
ligent young chief, promising to give him as
much of my company as my numerous engage
ments would afford. He told me that his patri
monial estate was at Upolu ; that it was a most
beautiful settlement ; but that, having been
beaten in a late war, he was obliged to take
refuge with his relative, Malietoa. He ex
pected, however, soon to be reinstated in his
possessions, and hoped he should then be able
to obtain a wise Missionary to instruct him.*
On the following day we embarked for Ma
nono, accompanied by Malietoa, Tuiano, several
other chiefs, and two of the teachers. The
natives evinced much feeling at our departure ;
and having seated themselves by the side of the
path which led to the place of embarkation, they
arose as I passed, kissed my hand, and entreated
me to return as. speedily as possible, to tell
them more about Jehovah and Jesus Christ. A
foul wind prevented our reaching Manono
before the next day, and this afforded me an
opportunity of discovering that Malietoa still
retained many of his heathen usages ; for al
though it rained heavily during the night, he
would not descend from the deck, which his
friends accounted for on the ground that his
presence rendered a place sacred. In addition
to this, we learned that no female must touch
food that had been brought near to him.
Upon remonstrating with the natives on the
folly of these practices, they assured me that
there was nothing superstitious in them, or
connected with the worship of the gods, but
that they were simply ceremonies of reBpect
which were shown to the principal chiefs.
They were curious in examining the different
parts of the ship. My bed-cabin, with the
bedding, pleased two of the ladies so much that
they were anxious to occupy it ; but not wishing
it to be soiled with their oily skins, I directed
them to the lockers, as a comfortable sleeping-
place. "True," they replied, "hut these are
not so soft and pretty as yours ;" and they went
and patted the pillows, and put them to their
cheeks, saying, " Lelei malu," good, soft."
However, they appeared to sleep very soundly
on the lockers, except when the ship tacked,
and they were rolled off upon the cabin floor.
On reaching Manono I hastened on shore,
and succeeded in inducing Matetau to accom-
* The chief had acquired his knowledge of English
from a sailor who hadbeen left at the islands sick, and
who was a very decent, well-behaved man.

pany me to the vessel. After introducing him
to Malietoa, I stated that my object in bringing
them together was to effect a reconciliation,
and establish a friendship between them ; for
as they were most influential chiefs, and as
teachers had been placed with them both, their
disagreement would be most disastrous to the
cause of religion. I then proposed to leave
them for a short time to tliemselves, and hoped
they would be able to accomplish the much
desired object. In about an hour they came
to me and said, " We two have now but one
heart," and that in future they would unite
their influence to prevent war, and extend re
ligion. I then gave the teacher and his wife
in special charge to Matetau, who ordered his
property to be carefully placed in his own canoe ;
and when we had knelt upon the deck, and com
mended them to God in prayer, they departed
for the shore.
I was truly thankful thus to have been ena
bled to reconcile these two powerful chiefs, and
to commence a mission upon this important little
island under circumstances so favourable. On
the Monday week I again visited Manono ; but
being too unwell to land, I sent to inquire after
the welfare of Te-ava, who addressed to me the
note of which the following is a translation : —
Manono, November 5th, 1832.
Dear Friend, I like this place very well : the chief
is very kind, and the people supply me with
plenty of food. We held our services yesterday
in the largest house in the settlement, which
was quite full. The chief, with many of the
people, have made a public profession of Chris
tianity. , This morning we met to teach the
alphabet, when the house was again filled, and
the people were all anxious to be taught. We
are happy and comfortable. May the Lord
protect you while sailing on the sea ! We think
very much about Mr. and Mrs. Buzacott.
Blessing on you, through Jesus. Te-ava.
After landing Malietoa and his party at the
Missionary station, I proceeded to different parts
of the islands of Savaii and Upolu, in search
of a harbour where to anchor, refit, and procure
water for our return voyage. This occupied five
or six days ; and wherever we went we found
the people anxious to be instructed. Indeed,the
applications to visit different settlements were
so numerous that I could have advantageously
spent six months there instead of one. Every
where they urged their claim by saying, " Our
chapel is finished, and all we want is a Mis
sionary." At length, by the guidance of the
natives, we found a very commodious harbour,
and they informed me of two others. Thus, in
one island we discovered three harbours, al
though it had been reported by La Perouse,
Kotzebue, and others, that there was no safe
anchorage in the whole group.
On arriving off the harhour at Apia I went
in with the boat to examine it ; and on finding
it spacious, convenient, and safe, we made a
signal to the vessel to stand in, which she did,

HEATHENISM RENOUNCED— DEPARTURE.

119

and dropped anchor in about six fathoms of
water. The Messenger of Peace was very soon
crowded to excess by natives ; but as Malietoa
sent his Tuulaafale, or orator, with me, silence
was commanded, when, with great parade, he
declared who I was and what I wanted. He
then announced that Malietoa had given me his
name, and that the respect due to him must be
shown to me.
Having made arrangements for procuring a
supply of water, I went on shore, and was
conducted to the house of Punipuniolu, the
principal chief. After exchanging salutations,
he made numerous inquiries respecting my
self, and then asked my opinion of the harbour.
Having told him, in reply, that it was one of
the best I had seen, he requested me to com
municate this to captains of ships, as he greatly
desired to be visited by them. To this I re
plied that I had no objection ; but as the cap
tains would immediately inquire whether the
chief was a Christian, I should be compelled to
inform them that he was not so. " Oh, no,"
he exclaimed, " you must not tell them that, for
I had resolved, before your arrival, to follow
Malietoa's example ; and if you will wait until
to-morrow morning, by which time I shall have
conferred with my people, you can come on
shore, and make me a Christian." Accordingly,
on the following morning, I met the chief, and
about a hundred and fifty other persons. On
entering his house I was saluted with the great
est respect, by the name of Malietoa, and ad
dressed in the language used to chiefs of the
highest rank. As soon as I was seated, Puni
puniolu said, " I have resolved to renounce the
religion of my forefathers, and wish you to make
me a Christian." I informed him that nothing
but a change of heart could make him a Chris
tian, and that this was the work of God ; but,
at the same time, I should rejoice to receive his
public declaration in favour of Christianity, to
write his name in a book, and to offer up to
Jehovah my sincere prayers on his behalf. The
chief then requested that those who wished to
follow his example would remain in the house
while I prayed, and that the others would with
draw. On hearing this, about twenty retired,
but they returned at the close of the prayer, when
the chief thus addressed the assembly : " Let
none of us speak contemptuously of religion.
Some of you have preferred remaining in the
devil's worship. Do not you revile my pro
ceedings ; neither will I yours." A short time
after this, while walking about the settlement
with the chief, he appeared much dispirited;
and on inquiring the cause, he replied, " Oh, I
am in great perplexity ! I have taken a most
important step ; I have become a worshipper of
Jehovah, but I am quite ignorant of the kind of
worship I must offer, and of the actions which
are pleasing or displeasing to him, and I have
no one to teach me." I then gave him all the
information which circumstances would permit,
and wrote to request one of the teachers to
come and reside with him for a short time.
During the few days I remained on the island
I took several long walks into the interior of

the country, of which the following brief speci
men must suffice. After proceeding about three
miles through an almost untrodden forest,
where stately trees grew in wild luxuriance, we
reached an open space, which proved to be the
site of a small village. Here there was an ex
tensive grass-plat, interspersed with numerous
half-grown bread-fruit trees, and surrounded
by the houses of the natives, with regular inter
vals between them. Our appearance startled
the sequestered inhabitants, for I was probably
the first European they had ever seen. The
chief received me with much respect, and or
dered mats to be spread upon the grass, and
refreshments to be brought. I then told him
my errand, and inquired whether he had em
braced Christianity. He replied that he had
heard of the lotu, and, in common with all his
countrymen, desired instruction ; but, having
no teacher, he was very ignorant. Having in
formed him that one of the teachers would
come shortly and reside for a time with Puni
puniolu at Apia, he promised to attend his in
structions. We returned by a circuitous route,
and observed that although exceedingly rich,
very little of the land was under cultivation be
yond that in the immediate vicinity of the set
tlement. The chief requested me to stay and
witness the poula langi, or " heavenly dance,"
which he was preparing for our entertainment ;
but as evening twilight had gathered around
us, and as we did not suppose that it savoured
much of heaven, I declined the invitation.
Having visited several settlements in this
island, and received numberless applications to
visit others, we prepared for our departure ;
and, as we had to pass Manono, I determined
to call there once more. On reaching it, I was
delighted to find that three of the .teachers were
spending a few days with their newly-arrived
brother. They informed me that they had just
opened two new chapels at Upolu, and that the
prospects of Te-ava were most encouraging, as
nearly all the inhabitants of Manono had placed
themselves under his instruction. After making
arrangements with them for visiting various
parts of Upolu, especially Apia, the settlement
of Punipuniolu, I took leave of them, and thus
closed my second visit to the Samoa group.

CHAPTER XXVII.
Runaway Convicts, &c. — Tragical Occurrences — Retri
butive Justice — Two Vessels taken at Heathen Islands
—Kindness of English Captains— Meet with the Widow
of Puna— Her Narrative — Ship springs a Leak-
Danger to which we were exposed — Vavau — Its Dreari
ness — Arrival at Tonga — Character and Labours of
the Wesleyan Missionaries— Arrival at Rarotonga —
Flourishing state of the Stations and Schools— The
Ingenuity of the Children in procuring Slates and
Pencils— Letter of one of the Children.
During my second visit to the Navigators' Is
lands, many facts were communicated ,to me,
some of which I think it necess%ry to notice.
The first is, the number of runaway sailors,
and other Europeans, who reside among the
people, and do them incalculable mischief.

120

TRAGICAL OCCURRENCES— FATE OF THE MURDERER.

Many of these were convicts from New South
Wales, who had stolen small vessels, and had
thus made their escape. The Missionaries in
formed me, that, subsequent to their settlement,
a gang of them came there in a fine schooner,
which, after stripping off her sails, and every
article of value, they scuttled and sunk a few
hundred yards from the shore.
Some time before this, another gang came, in
a stolen vessel, to the Society Islands ; and al
though treated with the utmost kindness by the
chief, Mahlne, they contrived, after plundering
his house of all his property, among which was
a blunderbuss and a small cask of powder, to
decamp at midnight in Mr. Barff's whale-boat.
Shortly after they had left the shore, the boat
was missed, and two others, with native crews,
were immediately despatched in search of them.
Unfortunately, one of these fell in with them ;
when the unsuspicious natives said, " Friends,
we have come to fetch you back ; you must not
steal the Missionary's boat and the chief's pro
perty." In reply they received the contents of
a blunderbuss, which blew the head of one of
them to pieces. Two more were killed by the
same weapon, and a fourth severely wounded.
The only other person present was a little boy,
who jumped into the sea, and hid himself be
hind the boat ; when the wretches, supposing
that they had completed the work of destruc
tion, hoisted their sail and departed. The boy
then climbed into the boat, and, assisted by the
wounded man, rowed to the shore. On my
return from one of my voyages, I found several
of these men at Raiatea. They immediately
came to me, and represented themselves as
shipwrecked mariners. In reply to my inquiries,
they said they were wrecked in 73 degrees
north, and were only three weeks in reaching
the Society Islands. I replied immediately, that
their tale was a foolish fabrication ; that I was
convinced they were convicts ; and that I should
write by the first opportunity to inform the
Governor of their arrival. They left- Raiatea
the day after, or perhaps some of our people
would have been murdered, as those of Huahine
were. Subsequently, these ungrateful wretches
reached the Navigators' Islands, where they en
tered, with savage delight, into the wars of
the natives ; and having fire-arms and powder,
they made fearful havoc among them. How
ever, " vengeance suffered them not to live ;"
for the leader of this murderous gang very
soon fell a victim to his temerity. On one oc
casion, seeing a number of the opposite party
clustered together, he fired his blunderbuss,
heavily loaded with bullets, and killed nine upon
the spot, besides wounding others ! The natives
however, did not give him time to reload his
murderous weapon, but rushed upon him and
killed him with their clubs. The chief for
whom he was fighting entertained so high an
opinion of his bravery, that he cut off his head,
and carefully sewed the fractured parts of tbe
skull together with fine cinet. He had this in
his possession when I was there ; and it was
said that he worshipped it as his etu. A second
of these wretched men was drowned in endea

vouring to make his escape ; a third fell iu bat
tle shortly afterwards ; but to the monster of
iniquity, whom the natives put to death before
my arrival, a longer time had been allowed. Of
this individual I received the most terrific ac
counts. It was stated that he had killed up
wards of two hundred persons with his own
hands ! Being an excellent marksman, no one
could escape who came within the range of bis
musket. The natives fled as soon as they- per
ceived him ; and, to avoid detection, with fiend
ish ingenuity he smeared himself with charcoal
and oil. He seldom left the fort of the party
for whom he was fighting without killing a
number of the enemy, whose heads were inva
riably cut off, and ranged before him during
his meals. He often seated himself upon a kind
of stage, smeared with blood, and surrounded
with the heads of his victims. In this state his
followers would convey him on their shoulders,
with songs of savage triumph, to his own resi
dence. The party for whom he fought, was, how
ever, conquered ; and he saved his life by fleeing
to the mountains, where he lived three months
upon roots, or whatever else he could obtain.
At length he came to Manono, and threw him
self upon the mercy of the chiefs, who spared
him, upon the condition that he should never
again engage in their wars. But a few months
after this, having received authentic information
of. his secret intrigues with the opposite party,
the chiefs held a consultation, at which it was
determined to put him to death. , One of their
number, a powerful young man, was charged
with this commission ; and, selecting a few
faithful followers, he proceeded, at midnight, to
the murderer's house, and, by a single blow,
severed his head from his -body. Mr. Stevens,
surgeon 'of! the, unfortunate Oldham whaler,
which was taken at Wallace Island, was sitting
by his side, at the time. From him I received
much information. Providentially, this gentle
man left the vessel the day before the crew was
massacred. I conveyed him to Rarotonga and
Tahiti, where, by his medical skill, he rendered
essential service to the mission families.
When I was at Manono, I found the people
at one part ofthe island exceedingly shy, and,
on landing, the chief sent amessage, requesting
me to come to his residence. He then stated,
that haying ordered an Englishman to be killed,
he feared that I should be angry and avenge
his death. After giving me a full account of
the character and practices of this monster, I
told him that the King of England would not
allow his subjects, who conducted themselves
well, to be injured with impunity in any part
of the world ; but that as this individual had
been such a murderer they had nothing to fear,
for the government of my country would approve
of their conduct.
While at the Navigators, I heard of two ves
sels having been taken at-islands on which the
people were still heathen. In the one case all
the crew, and in the other the greater part of
them, fell victims to the excited feelings of the
natives. In both instances, however, the Eng
lish were the aggressors. In the one, the chief's

THE WIDOW OF PUNA— PUNA'S ILLNESS AND DEATH.

121

son was threatened with death, and in the other,
the drunken captain and crew were in the act
of dragging the chief's wife on board their ship.
A short time after this disastrous event, a man-
of-war visited the island, when sixty of the in
habitants were killed. Surely if the natives
are to be so severely punished for avenging
their injuries, some method ought to be adopted
to prevent our countrymen from inflicting
them. The native Missionaries informed me of an
interesting visit they had received from Captain
Swain, of the Elizabeth whaler, who not only
treated them with much respect, but gave
them a variety of useful articles. He also
made valuable presents to the chiefs, and en
couraged them to pay great attention to the
instruction of the teachers. Hearing that I
was expected soon, he left a letter for me, in
which, after stating many things in commenda
tion of the teachers and people, he informed
me, that, in addition to his own inclination to
encourage Missionary labours, he had orders
from his owner, Mr. Sturges, who belongs, I
beheve, to the Society of Friends, to visit Mis
sionary stations for his supplies, and to afford
Missionaries every assistance in his power.
Alexander Birnie, Esq., and Son, have done the
same for many years. To such owners and
captains we feel our obligations, and desire to
record their kindness.*
While at the Navigators, I heard that the
widow and family of Puna, formerly our native
Missionary at Rurutu, were residing at Niua-
tabutabu, or Keppel's Island. I therefore de
termined to go and convey them to their homes.
Ou reaching the island, I found them in very
destitute circumstances, and, after having given
vent to her feelings, the widow supplied me
with the following most affecting history of her
sufferings. Her husband, herself, and family,
with ten natives of Rurutu, and two Americans,
put to sea in a little decked vessel of their own
building, for the purpose of returning to Raia
tea ; but having lost their way, they were driven
about for nearly six weeks, when they descried
a large low island, called by the inhabitants
Manaiki. As the natives appeared friendly,
one of the Americans and two of the Rurutuans
went on shore, having promised to hoist a white
flag if they were treated with kindness. No
flag, however, was hoisted ; and although they
sailed about the island for nearly a fortnight, all
they heard concerning their unfortunate com
panions was, that the king had dedicated them
to the gods; but whether as sacrifices, or
whether, from their being the first strangers who
had ever visited his island, he had simply made
them sacred, Puna could not ascertain. I think
it not all improbable that their lives were spared,
and that they may have been instrumental in
imparting a knowledge of Christianity to the
inhabitants. At length the boat was driven by
* I am truly happy to say, that of late years several
captains have been in the habit of visiting the islands,
whose arrival both the natives and oursoives hail with
delight. Among these may be mentioned Captain Mor
gan, Captain Emment, Captain Thomas Stayers of the
Tuscan, Captain Lee, and several others.

a strong wind to another island of the same
group, called Rakaana, which I should suppose
from the widow's account to be about twenty-
five miles from Manaiki, and to belong to its
inhabitants, who visited and lived upon the
produce of each island alternately. Here
Puna's party landed, and sawhouses and canoes,
but no inhabitants. In the former there were
many preserved bodies, with flowing black hair,
which looked as if alive. The natives, the
widow informed me, were strong and robust,
and resembled the inhabitants of the Paumotas,
who are a shade or two darker than those of
the Society Islands. The canoes were very
large, and built entirely of the cocoa-nut tree.
Of this group I received information from the
Aitutakians some time previously, as a canoe
full of people had drifted, fifty or sixty years be
fore, from thence to Aitutaki. The cluster is
said to consist of five islands, four of which are
named Manaiki, Rakaana, Mautorea, and Pa-
kara. I suppose them to be about two days'
sail N.E. of Aitutaki.
Again putting to sea, Puna and his party were
driven in various directions for upwards of two
months, when they reached Keppel's Island,
lat. 15° 56', long. 174° 10', 1900 miles from
Rurutu. Here the people wished to plunder
them, but were prevented by Maatu, the king.
They remained at this island four months,
during which time they kept the Sabbath, and
observed all their accustomed religious services.
One person of influence joined them, and was
desirous that they should reside at his district,
where he promised to erect a place of worship ;
but Puna was taken, ill, and, not expecting to
recover, he was exceedingly anxious to be where
he could enjoy intercourse with a Missionary ;
and, hearing that some resided at Tongatabu,
about three hundred miles distant, he again
launched his little schooner. They were driven,
however, by foul wind to Niuafou, an island
about ninety miles west of that from which they
started, and here poor Puna died the day after
he landed. He was a laborious and valuable
teacher. Of his piety I entertain no doubt. He
and his colleague, however, never agreed,
which gave rise to serious evils at Rurutu, and
occasioned me more anxiety than I experienced
in reference to any of our other stations. He
committed his wife and family to the chief of
the island, and spent his dying moments in ex
horting him to place himself under Christian
instruction. The day after his death the natives
dragged the little vessel on shore, and set her
on fire for the purpose of obtaining the iron
with which she was fastened ; and some run
away sailors broke open Puna's box, and stole
his property, but they quarrelled in dividing it,
when one of them received a blow which ter
minated his life. Puna's peaceful death and
parting exhortations produced so powerful an
impression upon the chief's mind, that he de
termined to embrace a religion which imparted
such blessedness. But his people were so
exasperated at his renunciation of idolatry, that
they entered into a conspiracy, and put him to
death.

122

ARRIVAL AT VAVAU— CHANGE AT VAVAU.

Having taken the widow and family on board,
we made as direct a course as we could for Ra
rotonga, when, after proceeding about three
hundred miles, a serious disaster befell us. At
midnight the mate awoke me with the startling
announcement, " You must get up immediately,
Sir ; the ship has sprung a leak, is half full of
water, and is sinking fast." I ran on deck in
stantly, and found, to my consternation, nearly
four feet of water in the hold. I at once perceived
that no time was to be lost, and that every indi
vidual must exert himself to the utmost ; for
tbe alternative was pump or sink. We all,
therefore, set to work forthwith, some with
buckets and others at the pump ; and in about
an hour I was relieved from my intense anxiety
by finding that we had gained six inches. Thus
encouraged we continued our arduous and
united efforts until morning, by which time we
had succeeded in pumping the ship dry. Still,
however, the water came in so fast, that in a few
minutes we were compelled to resume our la
bours. And now the first thing to which we
directed our attention was, to put our pumps
into the best possible repair ; and, as the ship
might sink in a moment, we also determined to
get the boats in readiness. This being accom
plished, we filled a few bags with biscuits, and
some bamboos with water, and put them, with
a number of cocoa-nuts, into a convenient place,
to prevent confusion in the event of being com
pelled to leave the ship. As there were two

boats, we then divided the crew into two parties,
and made every arrangement which prudence
dictated in our distressing circumstances. I
was truly thankful at being enabled to maintain
a coolness and tranquillity during the whole of
this exigency. The greater part of the night
was spent in an unsuccessful search for the leak ;
and our perplexity was much increased by the
wind becoming contrary and exceedingly vio
lent. Against this we contended for several
days, pumping the whole . time without inter
mission. At length we reached Vavau, and,
hoping to discover our leak, we worked our de
vious way for several hours amidst a multitude
of small islands, in quest of an anchorage, but
did not find one until sunset. Early the fol
lowing morning we commenced a thorough
search for the leak within and without ; but
although the natives dived under the keel, and
swam all round the vessel, no fracture nor de
fect could be discovered ; we therefore put to
sea again,* and, having to contend against a
contrary wind, we were five days, instead of
twenty-four hours, in reaching Tonga. Very
providentially, I found there Captain S. Henry ;
and, the day after our arrival, Captain Deanes,
of the Elizabeth, English whaler, came to
anchor. Aided by these two gentlemen, with
their crews and the natives, we succeeded in
heaving down the vessel, and, after a close scru
tiny, discovered the cause of our danger in a
large auger-hole in the keel, into which the bolt

had never been driven. This had been filled with
mud and stones in the hurricane at Rarotonga,
which had kept the vessel from leaking six
months, during which time she had sailed se
veral thousands of miles. A stone was very
fortunately wedged in the hole, or it would
have been impossible, in the estimation of the
captains and carpenter, to have kept the vessel
from sinking.
With my short visit to Vavau I was much de
lighted. It will be ' recollected that, on my
former voyage to the Friendly Islands, I met

Finau at Lefuga, who not only refused to em
brace Christianity himself, but threatened with
death any of his people who did so. My satis
faction, then, may be imagined at finding this
once despotic, but now docile chieftain, with
all his people, receiving the instructions of
Mr. Turner. At the time of my arrival they
were erecting a large place of worship to accom
modate a congregation, which, on the preceding
• We found the water run in much faster when we
were lying at anchor than when at sea; indeed, the leak
began when we were in a perfect calm.

MISSIONARY DWELLINGS,

123

Sabbath, consisted of more than two thousand
persons. All this had been effected in two
years. At my former visit to the Hapai Islands
I found a number of respectable Vavauans there
in exile, who had forsaken all to enjoy the in
structions of Mr. Thomas. There they acquired
a fitness for future usefulness ; and when, by
the conversion of Finau, they were permitted to
revisit their own island, they began at once to
impart to their countrymen the inestimable
knowledge they possessed. Thus was the
wrath of man made to praise God.
With Mr. and Mrs. Turner I spent a most
pleasant evening. Their prospects of usefulness
were very encouraging, and their hearts ap
peared to be thoroughly in their work.
The Vavau group is composed of a great
number of barren rocks, of compact crystal
limestone, from thirty to more than a hundred
feet in height. Many of these are inaccessible
and uninhabitable to human beings. In some
of them there are littly sandy coves, where the
natives, in numbers corresponding with the ex
tent of the habitable spot, erect their dwell
ings. Vavau appeared a most dreary place. We
saw nothing, as we worked our winding way,
but high, precipitous, and weather-beaten rocks,
which, although bold, were barren. These
were the undisturbed possessions of innumera
ble sea-fowl and vampire bats, whose screams,
mingling with the hollow roar of the sea, as it
ingulfed itself in the numerous excavations and
caves which had been scooped out by the bil
lows, were the only sounds which disturbed,
while they appeared to enhance, the awful still
ness of the place. On reaching the Missionary
settlement, you are agreeably surprised to find

a beautiful and fertile plain, inhabited by hu
man beings, not one of whom appeared until
we were near the anchorage.
In my visit to Tongatabu, I was truly de
lighted to find that the Missionaries had received
a printing-press, and that it was most actively
engaged in preparing the word of life for the
people. Its invaluable operations were com
menced in April, 1831, and by November, 1832,
twenty-nine thousand one hundred copies of small
books, containing five millions seven hundred
and seventy-two thousand pages, had been struck
off. Such facts furnish delightful evidence of
the untiring diligence of the Missionaries who
supplied the matter, and of the perseverance of
Mr. Wood, who had charge of the mighty
engine, Indeed, if sterling piety arid entire
devotedness to the cause of God among the
heathen can insure success, our Wesleyan
brethren at the Friendly Islands will have a
distinguished portion.
After spending a fortnight of most pleasing and
profitable intercourse at this place, our vessel
being ready for sea, we sailed for Raratonga,
which we reached in safety, in January, 1833,
having been absent fifteen weeks.
After this I remained several months at Ra
rotonga, during which period we completed the
revision of the translation which I brought to
England, and of which, I am happy to add, the
British and Foreign Bible Society has printed
Five thousand copies. This precious treasure I
shall have the unspeakable satisfaction of con
veying back with me. During this period, also,
the chapels were rebuilt, Mr. Buzacott's new
mission premises erected, and the settlements
put into excellent order. The accompanying
plate may give the reader an idea of our dwell-

WSmttSmmmk

Mb. Buzacott's Residence, in imitation of which the Kino's was built.

124

MISSIONARY DWELLINGS— STATE OF THE SCHOOLS.

HlHHL
- ''¦¦-¦•tmi'rir--->-«*j^'--'-iiiiiiii' rfr**-

KHli --.-**¦, hW--- a Lit.

The Author's Residence at Raiatea, after tho model of which Mr. Pitman's was built.

ings. The framework is of wood, and the
spaces between the posts wattled and plastered
with lime made from coral. By the exercise of
a little ingenuity we contrived to render them
both comfortable and respectable. Mixing red
ochre with the coral whitewash, we obtained a
salmon colour for our walls, and by pounding
the charcoal of soft wood and mixing it with
lime, we procured a French grey. The graceful
foliage of the banana, young bread-fruit, and
cocoa-nut trees, by which they are surrounded,
invests our premises with an appearance of
neatness and elegance. It was my determi
nation, when I originally left England, to have
as respectable a dwelling as I could erect; for
the Missionary does not go to barbarise himself,
but to civilise the heathen. He ought not,
therefore, to sink down to their standard, but to
elevate them to his.
In addition to this, I prepared a small ele
mentary book, and a catechism in the Samoa
language, ten thousand copies of which Mr.
Barff printed before I left the islands.
The schools were, at this time, in a pleasing
state of prosperity. In that of Papehia, there
were about five hundred children, in Mr. Buza
cott's seven hundred, and in Mr. Pitman's up
wards of nine hundred ; and on the morning of
our departure, they wrote to me on their slates
several hundreds of letters, expressive of their
regret at my leaving them. One of these,
written by a little boy about nine years of age, 1
desired him to copy upon paper. The following
is a translation : —
" Servant of God, we are grieving very much
for you ; our hearts are sore with grieving, be
cause you are going to that far distant country
of yours, and we fear that we shall not see your
face again. Leave us John to teach us while

you go, then we may expect to see you again ;
but if you take John too, we shall give up all
hope. But why do you go ? You are not an
old man and worn out. Stay till you cannot
work any longer for God, and then go home."
The progress which these children had made
in writing was not more gratifying than the in
genuity which they had displayed in providing
themselves with a substitute for slates and pen
cils. We taught them to write at first by means
of sand-boards, but, of course, they could not by
this mode acquire any great facility in the art.
They frequently expressed their regret at this,
and as our supply of slates was very small, they
determined, if possible, to find a substitute.
Having formed the resolution, they were ob
served one morning, on leaving the school,
running in groups up the mountains, and shortly
after returning with flakes of stones, which they
had broken off from the rocks. These they
carried to the sea-beach and rubbed with sand
and coral until they had produced a smooth sur
face. Thus far successful, they coloured the

Echinus.

NAMES OF THE ISLANDS— KOTZEBUE— MANUA— OROSENGA—OFU.

125

stones with the purple juice of the mountain
plantain, to give them the appearance of English
slates. Some ofthe boys completed the resem
blance by cutting them square and framing
them, so that, without close examination, you
could scarcely detect the difference. The next
desideratum was a pencil, and for this they went
into the sea, and procured a number of the echi
nus, or sea-egg, which is armed with twenty or
thirty spines.
These they burnt slightly to render them soft,
that they might not scratch ; and with these
flakes of stone for a slate, and the spine of the
sea-egg for a pencil, they wrote exceedingly
well: and hundreds of them took down the
principal portions of every discourse they
heard.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
Discovery of the Samoa Group — French Navigators —
Names ofthe Islands— Kotzebue — Manua — Orosenga —
Ofu — Tutuila — Upolu— Manono— Aborima— Savaii —
Importance of the Group — Eligibility for a British
Settlement — Soil — Trees — Various uses of the Candle-
nut Bread-fruit, and Cocoa-nut Trees — Botany of the
Islands— M.Betero — Birds — Vampire Bat — Snakes and
Lizards — Fish — Fishing— Turtle.
In various parts of my Narrative I have given
the reader to understand that many points of
importance were reserved for the conclusion.
To these I shall now call his attention; and
that which appears to demand our first con
sideration is, the geography of the N avigators'
Islands. This extensive and populous group is situated
in the South Pacific Ocean, and extends four
degrees east and west. It was discovered on
the 3rd of May, 1678, by the French circumna
vigator Bougainville, who gave it the designation
it now bears, most probably on account of the
superior construction of the canoes of the na
tives, and their surprising dexterity in the
water. The group is called by the inhabitants,
Sa-moa, and consists of eight islands : — Manua,
Orosenga, Ofu, Tutuila, Upolu, Manono, Abori
ma, and Savaii. In addition to these there are
several small islands off the coast of Tutuila and
Upolu. In the year 1788 this group was visited by the
unfortunate La Perouse, whose colleague, M. de
Langle, and a number of his men, were barba
rously murdered by the natives. This tragical
act conveyed such an impression of their treach
ery and ferocity as deterred subsequent voy
agers from venturing among them. And for
many years they appear not to have been visited
by a vessel from any part of the civilised
world. The names given by the French navigators
are so confused and incorrect, that it is utterly
impossible to know the islands which they in
tended to designate. Upolu they called Oyo-
lava, and the large island of Savaii, Pola. Ma
nua they call Opoun, Orosenga and Ofu, Fanfou
and Leone. Now Leone is the name of a bay
at Tutuila, which island they call Manua.
Indeed, there is not one island named cor

rectly, and I am quite unable to divine where j
Bougainville and La Perouse obtained the names I
under which they describe them.
In this respect, as well as in every other, Cap
tain Cook's superiority is strikingly displayed.
The accuracy of his directions is such, that you
may follow them with as much confidence as
you travel the high roads of England ; and the
excellent sense of this prince of navigators is
manifested in his retaining the native names of
the places at which he touched. This is of
singular advantage to persons visiting the nu
merous islands of the Pacific.
In our most popular nautical works, especially
in Norie's Epitome, it will be seen that the
names there given differ from those attached to
the same islands in his charts of the Pacific,
but neither of them are correct.
The Russian navigator, Kotzebue, says that
he visited this group ; but with all his skill in
misrepresenting and vituperating the Mission
aries, he has failed to correct one error or to
supply a single deficiency of his French prede
cessors. But while he has not done this, he
takes great credit to himself for introducing
yams among this people, and thereby preventing
them from being driven to the dire necessity of
eating human flesh ; whereas the Samoa islanders
were never addicted to that horrid practice ; and
as for yams, they had them before Kotzebue was
born. As I may not have occasion to refer to this
individual again, I shall embrace the present
opportunity of saying, that his ' New Voyage
round the World,' so far as it relates to Tahiti,
is one tissue of falsehoods, containing accounts
of persons who never existed, and lengthened
histories of events which never occurred.
Manua. Sailing to the eastward, after passing
a small, uninhabited island, about seventy miles
east of the whole group,* this island, 169'' 1' W.
long., 14° 9' S. lat., presents itself. It is cir
cular, and so elevated as to be visible at the
distance of forty or fifty miles. The shore is
lofty and bold, and there appeared to be but
little low land. I did not observe any dangers
off the coast. The whole group, however, re
quires to be properly surveyed. The inhabitants
of Manua are regarded as a conquered people,
and are, in consequence, despised and oppressed
by the other islanders. Indeed, in most of the
groups of the Pacific, one island was subject to
peculiar oppression, and supplied the others
with human sacrifices and slaves : and in single
islands, particular districts were thus subjected.
This was the case with the district of Arorangi
at Rarotonga, the chief and people of which
dwelt in the mountains.
Orosenga and Ofu next appear. These are
two comparatively insignificant islands, nearly
* I was also informed of a very dangerous reef about
four degrees eastward of the group. Off Keppel's ami
Boscawen's Islands there are several sunken locks, at a
distance of six miles from the shore, upon which the sea
appeared to break at intervals of about a quarter of an
hour, and we were close to them before they were ob
served. There is also a dangerous reef about 25 miles
N.N.E. of these islands.

126

TUTUILA— UPOLU, MA-NO-NO— ABORIMA AND SAVA-II.

united at right angles. The inhabitants were
not so numerous as at Manua ; indeed, most of
the people of Ofu have been destroyed by those
of Orosenga. The coast appeared to be free
from danger.
Tutuila is about fifty miles west of Orosenga,
in 170° 16' W. long., 14° 20' S. lat. This is a
fine, romantic island, of from eighty to a hun
dred miles in circumference. It was here that
the unfortunate M. de Langle lost his life ; and,
on this account, the bay, in which he was mur
dered, received the name of Massacre Cove.
In sailing down the south coast we observed
several fine bays, two of which, attracted our
particular observation. One was called Pango-
pango. Into this, vessels of a hundred tons
burden might run, and anchor with safety.
Leone is the name of the other, which is so
spacious and deep that ships of any burden
might anchor there with perfect safety, except
during a strong south wind. It was in this bay
that I was so kindly received. See page 109.
Utolu, the next island of the group, is in cir
cumference between 150 and 200 miles. The
mountains on this island are very high, and, in
clear weather, may be seen for fifty or sixty
miles. These are richly clothed with verdure to
their summits ; and, in the north-east parts of the
island, they present a variety, in their form and
character, which, in some situations, renders
their appearance romantic and sublime ; in
others soft, luxuriant, and beautiful. It has
been stated that there were no harbours in this
group ; but, at this island alone, we found three,
and there may be others. The one at Apia, in
which we anchored, is spacious, commodious,
and safe ; and, as it faces the north, it admits,
with the prevailing trade-wind, of easy ingress
and egress. The bottom is sandy, and at twenty
yards from the shore there are about five fathoms
of water. A river falls into the bay, so that any
quantity of excellent water may easily be ob
tained there.
Ma-no-no lies next, and is about five miles in
circumference. It is attached, by a shoal and
reef, to the south-west extremity of Upolu ; the
reef passes round it, and rejoins Upolu on the
opposite side. This island offers several good
harbours for vessels of forty or fifty tons burden.
There is shoal water to a considerable distance
from the shore ; but I am not aware that any
rocks exist to render approach dangerous. On
the north side of the island there is a good
roadstead. Manono, although small, is of
great importance ; for, as its inhabitants have
been victorious in every struggle, it has obtained
a kind of political superiority over the whole
group. It has many dependent settlements on
the larger islands of Savaii and Upolu, and,
when engaged in a contest, draws such assistance
from these as to form a force which no single
chief can withstand. Hence the inhabitants of
Manono are called the Maio, or victorious
people. Notwithstanding this, it is affirmed
that they have never been the aggressors in a
conflict. The island is badly supplied with
water, but the natives have sunk wells, and
have thus succeeded in obtaining it.

Aborima is about two miles in circumference,
from two to three hundred feet in height, and is
situated half-way between Manono and Savaii.
It received its name, which signifies the hollow
of the hand, from its remarkable shape. Most
probably it is the crater of an extinct volcano.
It is precipitous and inaccessible, except at one
small opening ; and the people of Manono, to
whom it is subject, use it in time of war as a
fortress for their families and property, and, in
the event of defeat, as a retreat for themselves.
For these purposes it is well adapted, as it is so
completely protected on all sides by the inacces
sible rocks, that it is only necessary to guard the
narrow entrance. This is done most effectually,
— first, by throwing tripping lines across it, so
that men stationed on the jutting rocks that
flank the passage could easily overturn every
canoe that entered it ; and secondly, by con
structing a platform or bridge on the rocks that
overhang this opening, from which they could
hurl huge stones upon the invaders. Although,
therefore, the people of Manono had been at
times driven from their own island, this retreat
was so effectually guarded, and so well provided
with food, that they never had been, and
scarcely could be subdued. Barren and steril
as are the sides of the rocks, a very different
appearance is presented when you arrive oppo
site to the point where the crater has emptied
itself. Plere the whole of the interior opens at
once to the view, and anything more beautiful
or unique I never beheld. The island is a
basin, most regularly scooped out, and ascending
with a gentle slope from the centre to the cir
cumference ; and although, on approaching it,
nothing meets the eye but steril cliffs, when you
catch a glimpse of the amphitheatre within, you
discover, there an impressive contrast to the
dreariness and desolation without. Not a barren
spot is to be seen, but one verdant mass of tro
pical vegetation, the whole of which, from the
peculiar form of the island, presents itself at a
single view, and fills the beholder with delight.
If anything could enhance the beauty of the
scene, it is the group of native dwellings, which,
half revealed among the trees of cocoa-nut,
bread-fruit, and banana, form the settlement.
But I must hasten to notice
Sava-ii, the last and largest of the group,
which is said to be 250 miles in circumference.
The mountains of this superb island are very
lofty, and visible at a distance of sixty or seventy
miles. These gradually increase in height,
from the sea to the centre of the island, and all
of them are covered and crowned with noble
forests. Savaii, in beauty, extent, and import
ance, yields to few of the many charming islands
that bestud and adorn the bosom of the Pacific.
The straits between Upolu and Savaii are
from ten to fifteen miles wide, and at their
southern entrance are Manono and Aborima.
They may be passed by vessels of the largest
class with perfect safety, and are entered either
between Savaii and Aborima, or between
Manono and Aborima, both openings being suf
ficiently wide, and perfectly free from rocks and
shoals.

IMPORTANCE OF THE GROUP— TREES.

127

The Navigators group is, with the exception
of the Sandwich Islands, the largest and most
populous in the Pacific at which missions have
been commenced, and in a few years they will,
no doubt, rise into considerable importance.
As they lie in the vicinity of the Friendly
Islands, the extensive Fiji group, the New
Hebrides, New Caledonia, and numerous other
solitary islands, intercourse between them could
be easily maintained, and thus a civilizing and
religious influence might be exerted upon the
countless thousands of benighted heathen, who
dwell between the Samoas and the coast of New
Holland ; and, whether we view this group as a
mart for commercial enterprise, a field for sci
entific research, or a sphere for the exercise of
Christian benevolence; we must regard it with
feelings of the liveliest interest.
A few years ago it was much wished by the
inhabitants of New South Wales that the British
Government would form a settlement at one of
the South Sea Islands, where ships might refresh
and refit, without being exposed to danger.
The fate of the vinfortunate Oldham whaler, and
the numerous tragical events which were con
stantly occurring at these islands, gave rise to
this suggestion. Although the danger has
ceased where Christianity has been introduced,
yet, should such an establishment be determined
upon, the Navigators group is a most eligible
place for its formation. Its central situation,
the excellence of the harbours, the abundant
supply of water and provision, the amazing
extent of rich and arable land, and the quantity
and variety of the timber, are important pre
requisites for an establishment of this description,
and such as must insure its prosperity.
For their extent of surface these islands de
serve consideration. There are many valleys
containing thousands of acres of rich soil, en
tirely untilled ; indeed, the portion of country
under cultivation is very inconsiderable ; for, as
the fruits grow so abundantly without labour,
the Samoans, like the Tahitians, display but
little ingenuity in agriculture. In this they are
greatly surpassed by their neighbours, the Ton-
gatubuans, who subsist almost entirely upon
produce raised by themselves ; while the Tahi
tian and the light-hearted Samoan can work or
play, rove abroad or stay at home, dance or
sleep, with the assurance that the beautiful
grove of bread-fruit trees, in which his cottage
is embowered, will afford him an abundant sup
ply ; and, if these should prove insufficient, that
the mountains abound with bananas, plantains,
wild- yams, and other esculents, more than
enough to supply the deficiency. Notwith
standing this, however, the Samoans cultivate
vast quantities of taro, because they prefer it to
the yam.
The soil is so exceedingly rich, that coffee,
sugar, cotton, and every other tropical produc
tion, may. be raised in these islands to almost
any extent ; and, as they are well watered, and
abound with springs, lakes and streams, machi
nery might, in many places, he worked with the
greatest facility. This, of course, enhances the
value of these superb islands incalculably.

The trees at the Samoas, as at Tahiti, ex
hibit great beauty and variety. Some are re
markable for their size, and others for their
flowers, or fragrance, or fruit. Most of them
are evergreens. Indeed, there are but two or
three deciduous trees on the islands. In general,
the new and old leaves, the bud and the blossom,
the young fruit and the ripe, appear together, and
adorn these through the whole circle ofthe year.
Some of the trees are exceedingly valuable as
timber. This is the case with the tamanu (calo-
phyllum). These grow to an amazing size. I
have seen them five feet in diameter. The na
tives select this wood for their canoes, stools,
pillows, bowls, and other articles, which are
wrought, with immense labour, out of the solid
mass. It has been used by us in ship-building ;
and, as it is durable, and holds a nail with great
tenacity, it is very valuable for that purpose.
Its value is further enhanced by the circum
stance, that iron lasts much longer in the
tamanu than in any other wood. We have also
made furniture of it. It has a veiny and beau
tiful grain, and is susceptible of a high polish. In
the hands of European cabinet-makers it would
vie with some of our most admired woods. This
might become an important article of commerce.
The amai or miro is another tree of note in
the various islands of the Pacific. The leaves
of the miro were always used in religious cere
monies, and ambassadors invariably carried a
branch of it as an emblem of their authority.
The wood is of a close texture, of a dark brown
colour, very little variegated, but susceptible of
a high polish. It is easily worked, and makes
beautiful furniture.
The tou (cordia) is a low, wide-spreading tree,
and is generally planted near the dwellings of
the chiefs. Its wood closely resembles rosewood
in colour and grain, but it is not so hard. It
makes beautiful furniture. I have frequently
thought that it would be exceedingly valuable
for musical instruments, as the wooden drums
made from it by the natives produce a far more
sonorous and mellow sound than those con
structed from any other tree. On this account
the tou is highly prized by them.
To those already mentioned I might add seve
ral other trees, especially the toi, with the bota
nical name of which I am unacquainted. This
tree grows to a considerable size and height.
The wood, lefwards the heart of the tree, is of
a blood red, and the lighter parts are beautifully
waved, like satin-wood : it takes a high polish.
The toa, also, (casuarina,) abounds in all the
islands, attains to a large size, and is covered
with exceedingly graceful foliage. The wood is
reddish brown, and very hard. We have used
it for sheaves of blocks, for cogs to our sugar-
mills, and for other similar articles ; and I think
it would be valuable for a variety of purposes
for which hard wood is required in England . '
The ingenuity of the natives is displayed in
working this wood, which they do with won
derful facility, considering their miserable tools,
of shell, stone, and bone. Their clubs and
spears, many of which are most exquisitely
carved, are made of this wood.

128

CANDLE-NUT TREE— BREAD-FRUIT TREE.

The above and numerous other trees, which
tbe islands produce in great abundance, might
be added to the list of those most valued in
Europe. From many of them gums and dyes
are procured, which might become articles of
importance in our own and other civilized coun
tries. Several of the trees possess a high value
to the islanders ; and I have frequently admired,
on the one hand, the beneficence of God, who
has united so many useful qualities in a single
plant ; and, on the other, the ingenuity of the
natives in discovering and applying these to the
purposes of necessity and comfort. Of this
remark I shall select an illustration. The can
dle-nut tree (aleurites triloba) abounds in the
mountains ; and, as its leaves are nearly white,
they form a most agreeable contrast to the dark
rich foliage of the other trees among which it is
interspersed. It bears a nut, about the size of
a walnut, which is used as a substitute for a
candle. Having stripped off the shell, they
perforate the kernel, and string a number of
these on a rib of the cocoa-nut leaflet, and then
light them. By burning large quantities of this
nut in a curiously constructed oven, the natives
obtain a very fine lampblack, with which they
paint their canoes, idols, and drums, and print
various devices upon their ornamental garments.
They also use the colouring thus obtained in
tatooing their skin. Besides this, the tuitui
furnishes a gum with which they varnish the
cloth made from the bark of the bread-fruit
tree, thus rendering it more impervious and
durable. From its inner bark a juice is pro
cured, which is a valuable substitute for paint-
oil, and when mixed with lampblack, or with
the dye from the casuarina and other trees, it
becomes so permanent that it never washes off.*
But, among all the trees that adorn the islands
of the Pacific, the bread-fruit deserves the pre
eminence for its beauty and value. It frequently
grows fifty or sixty feet high, and has a trunk
between two and three feet in diameter. The
leaves are broad and sinuated, something similar
in their form to those of the fig-tree. They are
frequently eighteen inches in length, and of a
dark green colour, with a glossy surface resem
bling that of the richest evergreens. The fruit
is oval, about six inches in diameter, and of a
light pea-green. It always grows at the extre
mity of the branches, and hangs either alone,
or in clusters of two or three. There are some
times several hundreds of these upon one tree,
and their light colour, contrasted with the dark,
glossy leaves among which they hang, together
with the stately outline and spiring shape of the
tree, render it an object which, for its beauty,
is not surpassed in the whole vegetable world.
The value of this wonderful tree, however, ex
ceeds its beauty. It is everything to the natives,
their house, their food, and their clothing. The
trunk furnishes one of the best kinds of timber
they possess. It is the colour of mahogany, ex
ceedingly durable, and is used by the natives in
building their canoes and houses, and in the
• Finding that the cocoa-nut oil, when mixed with
paint, did not dry, we extracted an oil from the candle-
nut, which answered the purpose much better.

manufacture of the few articles of furniture
they formerly possessed. From the bark of the
branches they fabricate their clothing; and,
when the tree is punctured, there exudes from
it a quantity of mucilaginous fluid, resembling
thick cream, which hardens by exposure to tbe
sun, and, when boiled, answers all the purposes
of English pitch. The fruit is, to the South
Sea islander, the staff of life. It bears two
crops every season. Besides this, there are
several varieties,* which ripen "at different pe
riods, so that the natives have a supply of this
palatable and nutritious food during the greater
part of the year. The leaves are excellent
fodder for the cattle, and they are so excessively
fond of it, thas it is necessary to protect the
young trees by high and strong fences.
At the Navigators' Islands we found a variety,
with which the Hervey and Tahitian islanders
are unacquainted. This had a number of seeds
ranged around the core.f The tree which pro
duces this fruit does not grow to so great a size
as the others, and the leaves are not sinuated.
I observed that the rustic native cottages gene
rally stood amidst a grove of these beautiful
little trees, the fruitful branches of which em
bowered them, and shielded their inmates from
the piercing rays of the sun. The inhabitants
of these fertile spots can lie upon their mats,
and, without labour or care, behold their bread
growing before their eyes. Many other parti
culars respecting this invaluable tree might be
noticed, but I have already exceeded the limits
I had assigned to myself for remarks upon the
botany of the islands ; and, as so many have
written upon the subject, it is unnecessary for
me to traverse the ground again.
The same observation is applicable to the
cocoa-nut tree. Its appearance, its character,
and its uses, have been so minutely described
by others, especially by the Rev. W. Ellis.rj; that
I shall only add a remark or two, to illustrate
the wisdom and goodness of the kind Father of
the human family, in making this provision for
their wants. The bread-fruit tree requires
depth of soil, and consequently cannot grow
upon low coral islands. But those who dwell
upon these spots are not left to perish ; for
where the bread-fruit tree will not exist, there
the cocoa-nut tree flourishes ; and the latter is
as valuable to the inhabitants of the coral, as
the former is to those of the mountainous
islands. Ofthe trunk ofthe cocoa-nut tree the
natives obtain timber for building their houses
and canoes. With the leaves they thatch their
* There are very many varieties of the bread-fruit, for
each of which the natives have distinct names ; and there
stood in our garden a tree which was regarded by them as a
very great curiosity. Its two main branches differed con
siderably, the leaves on the one side of the tree being
much more deeply sinuated than those of the other, and
the fruit on the one branch being oval, while that on the
other was nearly round. This was an accidental circum
stance, for the natives do not understand grafting.
f When I informed the Raiateans of this circumstance,
it excited considerable amazement, and the first thiug
Makea inquired for, on arriving at the Samoas, was the
bread-fruit with seed in it, that he might see the wonder
for himself. X Ellis's Polinesian Researches,

COCOA-NUT TREE— BOTANY AND ORNITHOLOGY.

129

dwellings and make baskets. Round that part
of the stem of each leaf which is attached to
the trunk of the tree, there is found a remark
ably fine and strong fibrous matting, which is a
singular provision for the security of the long
leaves against the violence of the winds. The
cloth thus woven in the loom of nature is alto
gether a most curious substance ; the regularity
with which the fibres cross each other, and the
singular manner in which they are attached,
give it the appearance of being a product of
human ingenuity. It is obtained in pieces of
about two feet in length, and ten or twelve
inches wide, and is used by the natives for a
variety of purposes, but principally for sails and
clothing. It is of a wiry texture ; and, when
worn, would be exceedingly distressing, if the
skin of the natives was tender. The principal
value of this tree, however, consists in the sup
ply it yields both of food and water. In many
of the coral islands there are neither streams nor

springs ; and, were it not for the cocoa-nut, the
inhabitants must perish. On a sultry day, when
the very ground burns with heat, a native, by
climbing the cylindrical trunk of one of these
trees, can pluck a dozen unripe nuts, each con
taining a pint or more of water, as cool and
refreshing as from the limpid stream.* Is it
possible to reflect upon the wonderful adapta
tion of the fruits of the earth to the climate
where they grow, and the circumstances of man,
without exclaiming, " How manifold are thy
works, 0 God ! in wisdom hast thou made them
all!" As I have already intimated, the cocoa-nut
tree can be killed with great ease. In the year
1832 myriads of insects, of the mantis family,
appeared at Rarotonga and the surrounding
islands ; and vast numbers of these invaluable
trees were destroyed by them. The following
is a representation of the insect.

I shall conclude these remarks by observing
that perhaps few more extensive or more in
viting fields are open to the botanist than the
South Sea Islands. This will be apparent,
when I inform my reader that, in 1832, the
Tahitian and Society Islands were visited by
M. Bertero, an Italian botanist, an accom
plished and scientific man, who astonished not
only the natives, but ourselves by the cures he
effected with medicinal herbs. When a patient
came to him for relief, M. Bertero, without
going twenty yards from the spot, would often
point out some herb, which, used according to
his directions, produced in numberless instances
the most beneficial effects. This gentleman was
enthusiastic and indefatigable in the pursuit of
his object ; and, during the eight or ten months
of his sojourn at the islands, he obtained two
thousand new specimens. I regret exceedingly
to state that the vessel in which he sailed for
the west coast of South America perished at
sea, and that this gentleman was unhappily lost,
together with his valuable collection. This re
gret is heightened by the circumstance, that he
had imbibed principles which could have af
forded him no consolation when battling with
the wave that was about to ingulf him.
No. 9.

" "fis religion that can give
Sweetest pleasures while we live ;
'Tis religion must supply
Solid comfort when we die."
At the Tahitian and Hervey Islands there
are but few varieties of the feathered tribes ;
and these are not remarkable either for the
beauty of their plumage or for the sweetness of
their notes. At the Navigators they are far
more numerpus ; but even there the ornitholo
gist may soon complete his catalogue. I was
certainly surprised to find that owls abounded
at this group, as not a single specimen is found
at the islands to the east of it. There are also
several species of the turtle-dove at the Samoas,
and I obtained one, the plumage of which was
exquisitely beautiful ; bright blue-green and
vermilion being the prevailing colours. These,
together with paroquets, water-hens, wood-
pigeons, wild-ducks, and a few others, compre-
* The cocoa-nut milk , aa it is obtained in England, con
veys no accurate idea of the delicious beverage used by
the natives ; for, as the nuts are old and dry, the fluid is
rancid. In the tropics, the water is drunk before the ker
nel is formed, when it is perfectly clear, and combines a
degree of acidity and sweetness, which renders it as re
freshing as lemonade. K

130 SNAKES— FISHING— IMPORTANCE OF THE NAVIGATORS ISLANDS.

hend all the varieties of the feathered tribe
found in the Samoa Islands. The vampire-bat
abounds at this group ; and it is a singular fact
that they are also numerous at Mangaia, but
unknown at every other island eastward of the
Navigators. At Savage Island, they are re
garded by the natives as a great delicacy. Some
that I was conveying to Rarotonga as a curiosity
died on board the ship, and the two Savage Island
youths skinned, broiled, and ate them. The
Samoans venerated them as e tus ; and, if Satan
is worshipped for his ugliness, I do not wonder
that this creature was selected to represent him.
Snakes also, which are unknown at the Tahi
tian and Hervey groups, abound here. I was
informed that there were several species of
them, some of which are beautifully variegated.
Those procured for me were of a dark olive co
lour, about three feet long. There are also
water-snakes, some of them beautifully marked
with longitudinal stripes of yellow and black,
and others with rings, alternately white and
black. The natives esteem both the land and sea-
snake good food. In the disorder occasioned
by the leak in our ship, and her subsequent
sinking at Tongatabu, I lost my snakes, and many
other curiosities which I was conveying home.
Very large lizards are found on the mountains
of Savaii and Upolu ; and, from the description
I received, I should conclude that they were
guanas. None, however, of these reptiles are
venomous. Another peculiarity in the natural history of
the group is, that a wild dog is found in the
mountains. I regretted exceedingly that I could
not obtain one. From the description I re
ceived, it appears to be a small animal, of a
dark, dirty grey, or lead colour, with little or no
hair, and large, erect ears.
The coast abounds with fish and turtle, and
the Samoans are exceedingly expert in catching
them. The methods they adopt are similar to
those of the Tahitian and Society islanders,
who, I think, have more contrivances, and those
more ingenious, than tbe natives of other groups.
The Hervey islanders, however, surpass them
in taking the flying fish. The Samoans make
fish-hooks of bone, pearl, turtle, and other
shells. They also make fishing-nets of the bark
of the hibiscus, the bread-fruit, the banian,
and other trees. But the most ingenious method
of fishing which I saw at the Samoas was the
following : — a number of hollow, floats, about
eight inches in diameter, and of the same
height, were attached to a strong cord, at a short
distance from each other. To each of these a
line was fastened, about ten inches long, at the
end of which was a piece of fish-bone, made
very sharp at both ends, and suspended by the
middle ; so that, when the fish seized the bait,
the bone pierced it in contrary directions, and
thus secured the prey. The floats answered two
purposes ; to attract the fish by their whiteness,
and to show when it was caught.
The rau roa is another method by which vast
quantities of fish are taken. This is formed of
a number of cocoa-nut and other leaves, fast
ened firmly together, which are dragged from

moderately deep into shallow water, where the
fish are encircled and captured. The natives
generally select creeks and bays for using the
rau roa. They also adopt the practice of in
toxicating fish ; and for this purpose throw in a
quantity of bruised seeds of the hutu, or Bar-
ringtonia tree. The albicore, boneto, ray,
sword-fish, and sharks, are among tbe larger
sea-fish eaten by the natives: in addition to
these they have an almost endless variety of
rock-fish, which are remarkably sweet and good.
Salmon abound in many ofthe islands, but these
are caught in the salt-water. They exactly re
semble the English variety in size and shape,
but the flesh is white. Crabs, lobsters, and
rock-oysters, with a vast variety of other shell
fish, are found amongst the coral reefs and rocks.
In the rivers and lakes there are prawns, shrimps,
and eels.
Turtle are far more numerous at the Samoas
than at Tahiti or the Hervey group. There are
also two varieties, the hawksbill and the green.
Of the shell of the former, which in Eng
land is called tortoise-shell, the natives make
finger-rings, fish-hooks, and neck and ear orna
ments ; but, having lately learned that it was a
valuable article of barter, they estimate it more
highly than they did. The turtle was considered
by the Rarotongans and Tahitians as most sa
cred. A part of every one caught was offered
to the gods, and the rest cooked with sacred
fire, and partaken of by the king and principal
chiefs only. I suppose no woman, in any of
those islands, ever tasted that luxury prior to
the introduction of Christianity.
In concluding this brief notice ofthe natural
history of the Navigators Islands, I would re
mark that there is not, in the whole range of
the Pacific, a finer group ; and I am persuaded
that, as soon as the progress of religion amongst
the inhabitants shall afford additional facilities
for properly exploring them, a vast amount of
interesting information will be obtained, and
more beauties and wonders will be disclosed.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Distinct Race of Polynesians — Islands inhabited by each
Race — Malay Origin of the Inhabitants of Eastern
Polynesia — Reasons for this Theory — Three Objections
answered— Origin of the Inhabitants of Western Poly
nesia doubtful — Conjectures respecting them — Spiritual
Condition ofthe two Races — Physical Character ofthe
Eastern Polynesians— Superiority of the Chiefs, with
reasons for it — Intellectual Capacities of the People-
Opinions of themselves— Mental Peculiarities— Wit
and Humour — Proverbs and Similes— Ingenuity — Good
Sense— Eloquence— Desire of Knowledge— Influence
of Religion upon the Intellect— Appropriate use of
Scripture.
Origin of the South Sea Islanders  I
have already stated that the numerous isles of
the Pacific are peopled by two races of men,
who, although possessing many characteristics
in common, exhibit numerous traces of distinct
origin. This clearly appears in their physical
conformation, colour, and language. The one
race is allied to the negro, having a Herculean
frame, black skin, and woolly, or rather crisped
hair ; while the hair of tbe other is bright, lank,

AFFINITY TO THE MALAYS— ANSWER TO THE FIRST OBJECTION. 131

and glossy, the skin of a light copper-colour,
and the countenance resembling that of the
Malay. The latter inhabit Eastern Polynesia,
which includes the Sandwich, the Marquesan,
the Paumotu, the Tahitian and Society, the
Austral, the Hervey, the Navigators, the Friendly
Islands, New Zealand, and all the smaller
islands in their respective vicinities ; while the
former race, which we may designate the Poly
nesian negro, is found from the Fijis to the
coast of New Holland, which, for the sake of
distinction, we shall call Western Polynesia.
It will appear, then, that the natives on the
eastern part of New Holland, and the intertro
pical islands within thirty degrees east of it,
including New Guinea, New Britain, New Ire
land, the Archipelago of Lonsiade, Solomon's
Isles, New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, and
the Fijis, differ essentially from the copper-
coloured inhabitants of the other islands. There
is, indeed, in most of the islands, a partial in
termixture of these races ; but the great mass of
the people clearly exhibits the distinction I have
made. Hitherto, Missionary labours have been
entirely confined to the copper-coloured natives.
We have now, however, proceeded so far west,
as to reach the negro race, and our next effort
will be to impart the same blessings to them.
To this we are encouraged by the fact, and a
fact more interesting can scarcely be found,
that nearly the whole nation of Polynesian Asi
atics is now converted to the Christian faith.
The point, then, for consideration is, the
origin of these islanders. In tracing that of the
copper-coloured Polynesians, I find no diffi
culty. Their physical conformation, their ge
neral character, and their Malay countenance,
furnish, I think, indubitable evidence of their
Asiatic origin. ' But to these proofs must be
added, the near affinity between the caste of
India and the tabu of the South Sea Isles ; the
similarity of the opinions which prevailed re
specting women, and the treatment they re
ceived in Polynesia and Bengal, more especially
the common practice of forbidding them to eat
certain kinds of food, or to partake of any in
the presence of the men ; — their inhuman con
duct to the sick ; — the immolation of the wives
at the funeral of their husbands ; and a great
number of games and usages. These, I think,
are clear indications of the Asiatic origin of this
people ; but the correspondence between the
language spoken by the Malays and the Poly
nesians is a still more decisive evidence. Many
of the words are the same in all the dialects of
the South Sea Islands ; but the identity is very
remarkable in the speech of the New Zealanders,
Rarotongans, and others, who introduce the
nasal sound, and the hard consonants. Of this
I will furnish a very few examples.
EXAMPLES.

English.

Rarotonga.

Malay.

The eye

mata

mata

Food

manga

mangan

Dead

mate

mate

A bird

manu

manu

Fish

ika

ika

Water

vai

vai

The Polynesians employ the Malay numerals
with scarcely any variation ; but, as the Samoa
islanders frequently insert the * and the I into
their words, these are most like the Malay.
This will be apparent from an example.
English. Tahitian. Rarotonga. Samoa. Malay.
Ten ahuru ngauru safulu safulu
Moon marama marama malama malama
These are the principal circumstances upon
which I found the belief, that the copper-
coloured Polynesians, and the various tribes
inhabiting the Indian Archipelago, have the
same origin.
To this theory there are three objections,
which have been considered formidable, — the
distance of the Malay coast from Tahiti ; the
prevalence of the easterly trade-winds within
the tropics ; and the unfitness of the native ca
noes for performing long voyages. But I think
I can show that these difficulties have been much
exaggerated. Let us consider for a moment the first ob
jection, — the distance from the Malay coast to
Tahiti, the Sandwich, and other islands. That
distance is about a hundred degrees, six or
seven thousand miles ; and it is thought to have
been impossible, for the natives to perform such
a voyage with their vessels, and imperfect know
ledge of navigation. If no islands intervened,
I should at once admit the conclusiveness of
this objection ; or, if we were to assert that they
came direct from the Malay coast to islands so
far east, the assertion could not be maintained ;
but if we can show that such a voyage may be
performed by very short stages, the difficulty
will disappear. Suppose, then, that the pro
genitors of tbe present islanders bad started from
the Malay coast or Sumatra, what would have
been their route % By sailing five degrees, or three
hundred miles, they would reach Borneo ; then,
by crossing the Straits of Macassar, which are
only about two hundred miles wide, they would
arrive at the Celebes. These are eight degrees
from New Guinea, but the large islands of Bes-
sey and Ceram intervene. The distance from
New Guinea to the New Hebrides is twelve
hundred miles ; but the islands between them
are so numerous, that the voyage may be made
by short and easy stages. Five hundred miles
from the New Hebrides are the Fijis; and
about three hundred miles further on, the
Friendly Islands. Another stage of five hun
dred miles brings you to the Navigators ; but,
between these two points three other groups
intervene. From the Navigators to the Her
vey Islands, the distance is about seven hundred
miles, and from thence to the Society group
about four hundred more. Thus, I think,
every difficulty vanishes ; for the longest stage,
in the voyage from Sumatra to Tahiti, would
be from the Navigators to the Hervey group,
seven hundred miles ; and the Rarotongans
themselves say that their progenitor, Karika,
came from thence.*
The two opposite points have yet to be
reached — the Sandwich Islands and New Zea-

• See pages 51, 52.

k 2

132 REPLY TO THE SECOND OBJECTION— THIRD OBJECTION ANSWERED.

land. The former are about two thousand five
hundred miles north of Tahiti ; but the voyage,
if made by way of the Marquesas, would not be
difficult, because the distance would thus be
diminished from six to eight hundred miles, and
the voyagers taken so much to the eastward,
that they would be wafted with great velocity
before the prevailing trade-wind. With this
supposition the native traditions agree ; one of
which states, that after the Island of Hawaii
was produced by the bursting of an egg, which
an immense bird laid upon the sea, a man and
woman, with a hog, a dog, and a pair of fowls,
arrived in a canoe from the Society Islands, and
became tbe progenitors of the present inhabit
ants ; and, in another it is stated, that a number
of persons arrived in a canoe from Tahiti, and
perceiving that the Sandwich Islands were in
habited only by gods or spirits, they took up their
abode at Oahu. Certainly such traditions, di
vested of those parts which are fabulous, in the
absence of all evidence to the contrary, ought
to be admitted in confirmation of the theory I
am advocating.
In reaching New Zealand from Tongatabu,
or the Fiji Islands, comparatively little difficulty
would be experienced. The distance is about
twelve hundred miles ; but if the wind happens
to be from the north-east, which is a frequent
occurrence, the voyage could be performed in a
few days. My own boat was on one occasion
driven from Tahiti to Atiu, and on another
from Rarotonga to Tongatabu, a distance alto
gether of fifteen hundred miles ; and on my
last voyage, I conveyed home some natives of
Aitutaki, who had been drifted in a single
canoe to Proby's Island, which is a thousand
miles west of their own.
Thus, I think, I have disposed of the first ob
jection to my theory ; and I now proceed to
the consideration of the second, — the prevalence
of the easterly trade-winds. This has been
deemed by many a conclusive argument against
the Asiatic origin of the South Sea Islanders ;
but I do not attach to it so much importance.
I am fully aware of the general prevalence of
these winds, and of the impossibility of the na
tive canoes working against them ; but, after
some observation, I am satisfied that the direc
tion of the wind is not so uniform as to prevent
the Malays from reaching the various islands
and groups in which their descendants are, I
believe, now found. At least every two months
there are westerly gales for a few days, and in
February there are what the natives call toerau
maehaa, or the westerly twins, when the wind
blows from the west several days, then veers
round the compass, and, in the course of twenty-
four hours, comes from that point again. I
have frequently seen it continue for eight and
ten days ; and, on one occasion, for more
than a fortnight; so that the difficulty pre
sented by the supposed uniform prevalence of
the easterly winds is quite imaginary. In addi
tion to this, as I have already shown, the longest
stage, in an easterly direction, in performing a
voyage from Sumatra to Tahiti, would be seven
hundred miles ; and I myself, in my first voyage

to the Navigators, sailed sixteen hundred miles
due east in a few days.
The third objection, derived from the con
struction of the native canoes, will appear, upon
a little consideration, as groundless as the
others. In Marsden's History of Sumatra, a
variety of facts are recorded, which prove, that
long before they were visited by Europeans,
there had been, in the Eastern Archipelago,
some extensive and powerful maritime states.
"In 1573, the king of Achian appeared, with a
fleet that is described as covering the straits of
Malacca. He ordered an attack upon three
Portuguese frigates that were in the road pro
tecting some provision vessels ; which was
executed with such a furious discharge of artil
lery that the Portuguese were presently de
stroyed with all their crews. In 1582, the
king appeared again before Malacca, with a fleet
of a hundred and fifty sail. In 1615, he again
attacked the settlement, with a fleet of five hun
dred sail, and sixty thousand men." * Where
then is the difficulty of allowing that a people
thus advanced in the art of navigation should
perform voyages all over the Pacific 1 A re
cent writer informs us, that " the north coast of
New Holland has been known by the Malays
for many years. A fleet, to the number of two
hundred proas, annually leaves Macassar for
the fishery there : it sails in January, during
the westerly monsoon, and coasts from island to
island until it reaches the north-east of Timor,
when it steers S.E. and S.S.E., which courses
carry them to the coast of New Holland. The
body of the fleet then steers eastward, leaving
here and there a division of fifteen or sixteen
proas under the command of an inferior rajah,
whose is the only proa that is provided with a
compass. After having fished along the coast
to the eastward, until the westerly monsoon
breaks up, they return ; and, by the last day of
May, each detached fleet leaves the coast, with
out waiting to collect into one body. On their
return, they steer N.W., which brings them to
some part of Timor ; from whence they easily
retrace their steps to Macassar, where the Chinese
traders meet them, and purchase their cargoes." f
It should then be recollected that the progeni
tors of the South Sea Islanders would not mi
grate in the paltry canoes now used by many
of their descendants, but in vessels similar to
those in which they attacked and sunk the Por
tuguese frigates, and assailed the settlement at
Malacca. Besides this, we have good evidence
that formerly the Tahitians and Society islanders
had canoes far superior to those now in use, in
which they performed some extraordinary
voyages ; and a traditionary account states, that
one of their ancestors visited all the Friendly
Islands, and even Rotuma, or Wallace's Island,
which is two thousand miles west of Tahiti,
and brought from thence the celebrated old
seat Reua.J
• Marsden's History of Sumatra, p. 431.
f Survey of the North and West Coasts of Australia,
by Captain King, R.N — Pages 135 to 138.— 1818.
t See Tamatoa's speech, page (jl.

ANOTHER THEORY UNNECESSARY.— POLYNESIAN NEGROES' CLAIMS. 133

Thus, I think every difficulty is removed, and
that we need not have recourse to the theory,
advocated by some writers, and countenanced,
to a certain extent, by Mr. Ellis, that the Poly
nesian islanders came from South America.*
I would far rather say, provided their phy
sical conformation, the structure of their lan
guage, and other circumstances established the
identity of the Polynesians, and the aborigines
of America, that the latter reached that conti
nent through the isles of the Pacific. This,
however, is a topic upon which, although inter
esting, I cannot enter ; but so convinced am I
of the practicability of performing a voyage
from Sumatra to Tahiti in one of the large na
tive canoes, that, if an object of sufficient mag
nitude could be accomplished by it, I should
feel no hesitation in undertaking the task.
I fear that my remarks upon the origin of the
Polynesian negroes will not be equally satis
factory with those which relate to the other
race. This, indeed, is a dark and mysterious
chapter in the history of man ; and all I shall
do is to throw out a conjecture respecting them,
and to express a hope that, when we obtain a
knowledge of their language and traditions, a
portion of the obscurity in which their origin is
now enveloped will be cleared away. It is
stated that the inhabitants of the mountainous
parts of several of the Asiatic islands have black
skin and crisped hair, and if so, it would be
interesting to ascertain, in how many other
points they differ from the Malays ; whether
they keep themselves distinct from that people ;
and whether some of their progenitors might
not have reached the South Sea Islands, in the
same manner as we suppose the Malays to have
done. I think I have shown that no sufficient
obstacle existed to prevent this, and the only
difficulty is to account for the existence of this
distinct nation between the Malayan Archipe
lago, and the islands to which the Malays have
migrated. The hypothesis I would venture to
suggest is, that the negro race inhabited the
whole of the islands prior to the arrival of the
Malay Polynesians ; — that the latter being a
fierce and treacherous people, succeeded in con
quering and extirpating them from the smaller
islands and groups, but were unable to effect
this in the larger ones ; and that consequently
they were left in quiet possession of the islands
which their posterity still inhabit. But, while
the origin of this numerous nation is involved
in much mystery, there are some points of
greater importance in relation to them, con
cerning which there can be none. There the
people are, many millions of them ; and, dark
as is their colour, they are enveloped in a moral
gloom of deeper hue, constitute a branch of the
guilty family of Adam, are involved in the com
mon condemnation, and present a powerful
claim upon the Christians of England for that
Gospel, which has, under God, conveyed to the
other race the blessings of civilization, and the
light of immortality. To that people I shall, on
my return, direct my principal attention ; and I
* Ellis's Polynesian Researches, vol. i., p. 122 ;
Tour, 443.

trust that British Christians, encouraged by the
result of their efforts on behalf of the other
race, will be still more anxious for the conver
sion of this, and never relax their efforts, or
suspend their prayers, till all the islands that
stud the vast Pacific shall be enlightened and
blessed with the Gospel of salvation.
Physical Characteristics. — The physical
differences between some of the tribes of the
copper-coloured Polynesians are considerable ;
but viewed collectively, they are, I think,
amongst the finest specimens of the human
family. The men are strong and tall, being fre
quently upwards of six feet high, with limbs
firm and muscular, but not heavy and clumsy.
Indeed, the form of many of them exhibits all
that is perfect in proportion and exquisite in
symmetry. This is especially the case with the
chiefs, and more remarkably so with those of
Tongatabu and the Friendly Islands, whose
form and bearing are as stately as their move
ments are natural and free. The women are
inferior to the men ; but yet they often present
the most elegant models of the human figure.
Both the men and women are distinguished by
vivacity, and their movements by extraordinary
quickness and ease. They exhibit different
shades of complexion, but their general colour is
that of the Chinese ; the Tahitians, however,
used formerly to fatten and whiten themselves
at pleasure.
Captain Cook attempted to account for the
superior size of the chiefs, by supposing that they
were a distinct race ; but in this we think he
was incorrect. It may perhaps be attributed in
part to their progenitors, who were probably
raised to the chieftainship on account of then-
physical superiority, or of some achievements
which resulted from it ; — partly to their mothers,
who were generally selected by the chiefs for
their form and stature ; — and partly to their
treatment during the years of childhood and
youth. As soon as the son of a chief was born,
two or three of the finest and most healthy
women were selected to nurse it ; and while
performing this office, which they frequently did
for three years, they were provided with abun
dance of the best food. A child of Tinomana,
of Rarotonga, had four nurses, and he was a
little monster. With this commencement, their
subsequent training corresponded. I think
these causes sufficient to account for the superi
ority of the chiefs, many of whom are certainly
splendid specimens of human nature.
Intellectual Capacities. — It is a remark
able fact, that almost every race thinks itself the
wisest. While, in the pride of mental superi
ority, civilized nations look upon barbarous
tribes as almost destitute of intellect, these
cherish the same sentiments towards them ; and
even Britons have not been exempted from de
grading representations. So far back as the
time of Cicero, we find evidence of the low esti
mate in which we have been held. In one of
his epistles to his friend Atticus, the Roman
orator recommends him not to obtain his slaves
from Britain, because " they are so stupid, and
utterly incapable of being taught, that they are

134 POLYNESIAN WIT AND HUMOUR— THEIRPRO VERBS— THEIR GOOD SENSE.

unfit to form a part ofthe household of Atticus."
At the present day, the Chinese do not form a
much higher opinion of our capacities ; and
even with the South Sea Islanders, it is common
to say, when they see a person exceedingly
awkward, " How stupid you are ; perhaps you
are an Englishman."*
It will depend, however, upon the standard
by which we measure intellectual capacity,
whether we pronounce the South Sea Islanders
inferior to other races. If depth of thought and
profundity of research be the only satisfactory
evidences of superior minds, I shall yield the
point at once. But if wit, ingenuity, quickness
of perception, a tenacious memory, a thirst for
knowledge when its value is perceived, a clear
discernment and high appreciation of the useful ;
readiness in acquiring new and valuable arts ;
great precision and force in the expression of
their thoughts, and " occasional bursts of elo
quence of a high order, be evidence of intellect, I
hesitate not to affirm, that, in these, the South Sea
Islander does not rank below the European :
and that many of them would, if they possessed
equal advantages, rise to the same eminence as
the literary and scientific men of our own land.
An illustration or two of their mental capacity
may not be inappropriate.
The following incident will furnish an example
of their wit and humour. A few years ago, a
venerable and esteemed brother Missionary
came to England, and, being rather bald, some
kind friends provided him with a wig. Upon
his return to the islands, the chiefs and others
went on board to welcome him ; and, after the
usual salutations, one of them said to the Mis
sionary, "You were bald when you left, and
now you have a beautiful head of hair ; what
amazing people the English are : how did they
make your hair grow again V " You simple
people," replied the Missionary, "how does
everything grow 1 is it not by sowing seed V
They immediately shouted, " Oh, these English
people ! they sow seed upon a bald man's head
to make the hair grow !" One shrewd fellow
inquired whether he had brought any of the
seed with him 1 The good Missionary carried
on the joke for a short time, and then raised his
wig. The revelation of his " original head" of
course drew forth a roar of laughter, which was
greatly increased, when one of the natives
shouted to some of his countrymen who were
near " Here, see Mr.  , he has corne from
England with his head thatched ; he has come
from England with his head thatched !"
Of the pun they are very fond, and use it fre
quently. I could give numerous examples of
this : but the point of such witticisms is so much
blunted by translation, that I think I should not
do their authors justice by presenting them to
the English reader.
Their proverbs and similies, generally drawn
from familiar objects, are often very striking and
* They give us full credit for our superiority in some
other respects ; but they laugh at the awkwardness of
Englishmen in doing those things at which they are so
expert, such as climbing, swimming, producing' fire by
rubbing two sticks together, &c.

appropriate. Several of these have been fur
nished in the speeches introduced elsewhere ;
but one or two others may be added. There is
a fish, common in the tropics, called the aumea,
which is remarkable for its large mouth and
open gills. By the natives it is believed that
the food seized by the former often passes out at
the latter ; and, in allusion to this, a chief, when
delivering an important commission, would say
to the bearer, " Do not imitate the aumea ;"
and, when exhorting each other to a cordial and
profitable reception of religious truth, they
would frequently remark, " Do not let our re
ception of the word of life resemble the eating
of the aumea, but let it sink into the heart."
For several hours before a storm, a hollow roar
upon the reef is the unerring indication of its
approach ; and as soon as this is heard, the sea
urchin, or echinus, prepares for the tempest, by
crawling to a place of security, and fixing itself
so firmly to the rock, that the bursting billows
cannot detach it. The natives observing this,
have a proverb, which, rendered literally, is,
" The roaring of the sea, and the listening of
the echini:" but in signification is similar to
that of Solomon, "The prudent man foreseeth
the evil, and hideth himself." A current ex
pression, in reference to any boast, display, or
bluster, is E upaupa tuma ore ia, " That's a
splendid thing without a foundation ;" alluding
to the parasitical plants which abound in the
islands. These are merely specimens of hun
dreds equally appropriate of the same class.
The ingenuity of the natives is displayed in
the fabrication of their cloth, the exquisite
carving of their weapons and the construc
tion of their canoes, houses, fishing apparatus,
&c. Of their good sense, I have given a speci
men in page 13 : and will only mention
another instance of it. I was standing one day
by Tamatoa, when the fishing canoes returned
with a quantity of salmon. These were depo
sited in his presence ; and one of the domestics,
by his master's order, began to set apart a num
ber for the various chiefs, according to the usual
custom. While he was doing this, a petty chief
took a large fish from the pile ; on seeing
which, the servant immediately seized it, and
muttered something in a very growling tone of
voice. Tamatoa noticed this, and asked the
man why he did so. " That fellow," he replied,
"refused to give me some bread-fruit the other
day, and now he comes to take our fish !" The
king then ordered him to select two of the finest
salmon, and give them cheerfully to the chief.
The man grumbled, and, very reluctantly,
obeyed the order. Shortly afterwards, Tama
toa again called his servant, and said, " You
foolish fellow, do you not perceive, that, by this
act, the unkindness of that man will he reproved,
and that he will be ashamed to refuse you any
thing the next time you go t" I immediately
turned to the king, and whispered, "Why, you
are as wise as Solomon ; for he says, ' If thine
enemy be hungry, give him bread to eat; and if
he be thirsty, give him water to drink ; for thou
shalt heap coals of fire upon his head.' "

NATIVE PRAYER— AFFECTING APPEAL.

135

" True," he replied, " that's the way to conquer
people." In eloquence they excel. I have not only
seen all the passions of the human mind called
into exercise, but have myself been so wrought
upon by their addresseB, as to forget where I
was, and in what I was engaged. Many speci
mens have already been given in their speeches ;
and the concluding paragraph of the following
prayer, which was offered up on the Sabbath
prior to our embarkation for England, may be
added to them.
Having preached to a large congregation, and
feeling rather exhausted, I called upon one of
the members to engage in prayer, prior to tbe
administration of the Lord's Supper ; and being
delighted alike with the piety and beauty of his ex
pressions, I wrote them down, as soon as the ser
vice was concluded. He commenced bysaying, —
" Oh God, the high and blessed Jehovah, we
praise thee for all the goodness thou hast
wrought towards us : and now that we are as
sembled round this table, do thou be with us.
While we see the bread broken in our presence,
may the eye of the heart be looking at the body
of the Lord Jesus as broken upon the cross for
us ; and when we see the wine poured into the
cup, may the ear of the heart be listening to the
voice of the Lord Jesus, saying, ' This cup is the
new covenant in my blood which was shed for
the remission of sins.' Let not what the
apostle says be applicable to us ; never may we
eat and drink condemnation to ourselves. For
bid that we should take nails, and fasten the
Lord Jesus again to the cross ; once he has
been put to pain for us ; may that suffice ; may
we never take the spear of sin, and pierce again
his side, thus crucifying him afresh, and putting
him to an open shame. In partaking of this sacred
feast, may our hearts be warmed, may our love
to the Saviour be made greater, and may our
faith be made stronger."
He then prayed affectionately for his beloved
Missionary and his family, and for the church,
of which he had been a member twelve years ;
and closed with the following beautiful petitions
for us, who were to embark for England on the
following morning : —
" Oh God, tell the winds about them, that
they may not blow fiercely upon them ; com
mand the ocean concerning them, that it may
not swallow them up ; conduct them in safety
to their far distant country, and give them a
happy meeting with their relatives, and then
conduct them back again to us ; but should we
never meet again around the table of the Lord
below, may we all meet around the throne of
glory above."
That the natives are anxious to obtain, and
quick in receiving instruction, have been abun
dantly shown in the preceding narrative. I
think it right, however, to remark, that while
there is ample evidence of their having possessed
good powers of mind, previous to the introduc
tion of Christianity, with that period a new era
commenced, not only in their moral history,
but also in their intellectual. The process of
instruction under which they have been brought,

the new wants and desires created by the sup
ply of knowledge, the excitement produced by a
series of discoveries, many of which were so
wonderful and sublime that they could not fail
both to quicken and enlarge their faculties, and,
above all, the elevating power of vital religion,
have made them mentally, as well as spiritually,
" new creatures in Christ Jesus." This has
often appeared, in our evening conversations
with the natives ; for the Missionary keeps open
house, which, at the close of the day, is often a
full house, so many come to ask questions and
acquire knowledge ; but still more strikingly in
their addresses and sermons. Perhaps no mi
nisters, even the most gifted, could select their
illustrations or make their quotations with
greater judgment and force. In the latter point,
I have often been struck with their holy inge
nuity ; and perhaps I may be pardoned for
giving the following instance of this excellence.
A few weeks after I had taken leave of Raitea
for England, I had occasion to return to that
island ; and a short time subsequent to my arri
val, I found that a meeting had been convened
which I was requested to attend. I knew not
its object, until the king's speaker arose, and
told me, that they had met to request me to
abandon my intention of visiting England.
After many interesting addresses, a chief arose,
and with great gravity said, " Mr. Williams, I
have been reading to day what Paul wrote to the
Philippians, ' I am in a strait between two,
having a desire to depart and be with Christ,
which is far better ; nevertheless, to abide in the
flesh is more needful for you.' Now we all
know that you must wish to see your friends,
and visit your native country, after so long an
absence ; this is very reasonable ; but don't you
think, if Paul was willing to stay even out of
heaven to do good to Christians on earth, that
you ought to forego the pleasure of visiting
England to do good to us V' This was a touch
ing appeal, and feeling it deeply, I replied by
expressing my pleasure at receiving this proof
of their affection, and promised, on revisiting
Tahiti, to consult Mrs. W., and if we could not
remain ourselves, to persuade one of our brother
Missionaries to reside with them until our re
turn. I had no sooner made this declaration
than another arose, and, after thanking me for
promising to endeavour to find a substitute,
exclaimed, " But although we have ten thou
sand instructors in Christ, we have not many
fathers, for, in Christ Jesus, you have begotten
us through the Gospel."
Since the former sheets went to press, I have
had an opportunity of conversing with an es
teemed brother Missionary, the Rev. W. Med-
hurst, who has laboured many years in Java,
and he informs me that in the island of Ceram,
there is a race of men which, from his descrip
tion, I find resembles the negro Polynesians ;
that they build canoes by lashing them together
as the South Sea Islanders do ; and that they
exist as a distinct nation from the Malays, by
whom they are caught, and sold as slaves.
These facts appear to countenance the hypothe
sis I have ventured to suggest. See page 131.

136

THE DIALECTS.

CHAPTER XXX.
The two Languages of the South Sea Islanders — The
eight Dialects ofthe Eastern Polynesians — Comparison
of each Dialect with the Tahitian — Tabular view of the
Differences between them — Their Precision and Per
fection — Nice distinctions in the Pronouns — Causative
Verb — Pronunciation — Introduction of New Words —
Government— Power of the Chiefs— Punishment of
Theft — Wars — Their Frequency — Weapons — Cannibal
ism not practised by the Samoans — Amusements.
Language. — The language is the next point
which claims our attention. That of the Poly
nesian negroes differs from the dialects of East
ern Polynesia in one remarkable feature : which
is, that in the former, many of the words and
syllables terminate with a consonant, whereas
in the latter, both the one and the other invari
ably end with a vowel. Of the first I know but
little ; but with the other I am perfectly fami
liar, and to it therefore I shall confine my
observations. In this language there are eight dialects ;
and, for the sake of clearness, I shall select the
Tahitian as the standard, and compare the others
with it. I do this, however, not because I think
it is the original ; for the Hervey Island dialect
appears to possess superior claims to that title,
as it is so much more extensively spoken, and
bears a closer affinity to the other dialects, than
the Tahitian ; but because the latter was first
reduced to system. The islanders who speak
the different dialects of this language are, the
Tahitian and Society, the Sandwich, the Marque
san, the Austral, the Hervey, the Samoa, the
Tongatabuans, and the New Zealanders.
The Sandwich Island dialect differs from the
Tahitian in the frequent introduction of the k
and I, and the rejection off, as in the following
words : — good. love. house.
Tahitian. maitai aroha fare
Hawaiian. maikai alofa fale
The Marquesan differs from the Tahitian in
admitting the k, and rejecting the r, without
supplying its place ; as —
Tahitian. maitai aroha fare
Marquesan. motaki aofa fae
The Austral islanders, including Rurutu, Rai-
vavae, Tupuai, and Rimatara Islands, situated
about four hundred miles south of Tahiti, have
a distinction of their own, but have been taught
to use the Tahitian Scriptures, which they read
fluently, and understand as well as if written in
their own tongue. The peculiarity of this dia
lect appears in the rejection of the / and h,
without supplying any substitutes ; and, trifling
as this may appear, the difference of sound it
occasions is amazing. again.
Tahitian. maitai aroha fare faahou
Austral. maitai aroa are aaou
The Hervey Island dialect is spoken, not only
throughout that group, but at theManiki group,
to which Puna, the native Missionary, was drifted ;
and by the Paumotus, even as far up as Gam-
bier's Islands. This differs very little from the

dialect of New Zealand. The Hervey or Rara-
tonga dialect is distinguished from the Tahitian
by two peculiarities ; in tbe first place, by the
rejection of they and h; and, secondly, by the
introduction of the k and nga. There are also
two other peculiarities in the Tahitian — a re
markable break or separating catch, when two
vowels come together, and a hard sound. These
are supplied in the Rarotonga by the k axulnga;
as, for example, va'a, canoe, becomes in that
dialect, vaka; and aro, lost, becomes ngaro. food.
Tahitian. maitai aroha fare maa
Rarotongan. meitaki aroa are manga.
The Samoa dialect differs from the Tahitian
in exchanging the r for the I, and the h for the s.
It also adopts the nasal sound, and rejects the
k. The frequent use of the f, s, and I, renders
the Samoa dialect peculiarly soft and melliflu
ous ; much more so, indeed, than any other of
the dialects. This is the only dialect in which
the sibilant is used.
The Tongatabu differs from the Tahitian in
rejecting the r, and introducing the I and k;
and from all the other dialects by the use of the
j. In the latter point it becomes somewhat
assimilated to the Fiji language. The Tonga
dialect is spoken at the Hapai and Vavau groups,
and at many of the adjacent islands.
The New Zealand is the eighth dialect of this
language. In its leading peculiarities it agrees
with the Rarotonga; indeed, the only difference
is, that the New Zealanders retain the A, which
the Raratongans reject. A few words perhaps
in each of the dialects will enable the reader to
trace their affinity. (See List in following page.)
The pronouns in seven of the dialects are the
same ; but in that of Tongatabu they differ ma
terially from the others, and bear a greater
affinity to the Fiji.
That a language spoken by savages should be
supposed to be defective in many respects, could
not create surprise ; but the fact is contrary to
all we might have anticipated, that the Polyne
sian dialects are remmarkably rich, admit of a
great variety of phraseology, abound in turns of
peculiar nicety, and are spoken with strict con
formity to the most precise grammatical princi
ples. Of this I shall furnish a few examples.
In the first place, the Polynesians employ three
numbers, the singular, the dual, and the plural,
with which the inflexions of their verbs agree.
singular, dual. plural.
To speak parau pararau paraparau
To do rave rarave raverave
Their pronouns are beautifully complete,
having several remarkable and valuable dis
tinctions unknown to us. An instance is found
in what we may term the inclusive and exclusive
pronouns : for example, in English, we say, " It
is time for us to go ;" and the expression may
or may not include the person addressed. Now,
in the Polynesian dialects there are two pro
nouns which mark this difference, matou and
tatou. Ifthepersonspoken to is one of the party
going, the tatou would be used ; if not, the ma-

THE DIALECTS— INTRODUCTION OF NEW WORDS.

137

tou. A short time since I was dining at Bath,
when the lady of the house desired the servant
to bring a plate, and, politely addressing me,
said, " Put your bones upon the plate, Sir."
Now, common as this expression is, it is cer
tainly rather ambiguous. In the language of
the Polynesians, however, there would be no
such ambiguity, for they have two pronouns to
express the difference, tooe and taoe ; the former
of which would be used, if my own bones were
meant ; and the latter, if those of the pheasant
of which I had been partaking.

a a ti S a a
•3 la "a ...---g a a a'S § a.2

i&

a .S a i.SS

«-3S|'3-gg|,

d o 2 3 c3

rt P-

to

o'Ed ¦****}
¦d fl.H "
ri ea 3 2,-st^?

rt « S
rt he « S-;
3 "r*1? rf-

V rt"? 3 rt a d
B|j?-?o;gjJjK

ST4 §1
3 3-B „ §
' -* « 073 a

rt a) _. d
a*f a 3v
a cs

ia
a j2 2.„

^i'ggslgggl'galbstS-g

a-?-1? 5 a - o g.a S«5 o
• aarfaiia3.aa<u3rt.2a.*

a. 5

,H a -

a a a. a
^-.i a a
2 S* if:
¦2 aa-r 3!
<J^ i 3 S.I

a ™ o -a , aj
a a a a a ? = = «, 0S3 0
¦s=£&Saaa«p.a.3<!.s

2ai S'Sofl

® 3'a a or <
a|a a agog. -|
;|3-5a|i,g-o-oa. - ,£ P a -a rt P.-. ¦» P-*1. «

.¦S-a ^a'Sg a-iS-S^-a'§

o\2
2 =

There is also a causative verb, as matau,
fear ; haa matau, to make afraid ; mat au hia,
to be feared ; haa matau hia, to cause to be
feared.

The distinction of sounds, also, is very deli
cate, and has occasionally placed the Missionary
in rather awkward circumstances. On one
occasion, an excellent brother was preaching for
me, and, happening to aspirate a word which
ought not to be aspirated, he addressed the peo
ple as beloved savages, instead of beloved bre
thren. Notwithstanding this, no person speaks
incorrectly, and we never hear such violations
of grammar and pronunciation as are common
in England.
There are but fourteen or fifteen letters in
any of the dialects of this language ; and as we
spell the word precisely as it is pronounced, no
difficulty is experienced in teaching the children
spelling. All we have to do is to instruct them
in the sounds of the letters, and when these are
acquired, they spell the longest words with ease.
As the natives are never at a loss to express
their thoughts or emotions, or to describe any
of the qualities of matter with which they are
acquainted, we have been obliged, in effecting
our translations, to introduce but few new
terms. These principally relate to the ordi
nances of the Christian religion, and to articles
and ideas unknown prior to their intercourse
with Europeans. Before admitting a new word,
we have generally considered whether it could
be Polynesianized ; that is, whether vowels
could be inserted between every two consonants
without destroying its identity ; and, secondly,
whether any terms exist in the native tongue
with which it was likely to be confounded.
When we could adopt English words, we pre
ferred doing so ; but these cannot be accommo
dated to the South Sea dialects so easily as
words from the Greek. Of this the term horse
may afford an illustration. This, by the intro-
duction of vowels, so entirely loses its identity,
that horse would become horeti; but as the
omission of one p and the s from the Greek
word hippos gives us hipo, we adopt that word,
because it harmonizes with the language, can be
easily pronounced by the natives, and retains a
sufficient resemblance to the original to preserve
its identity. Arenio for lamb, and areto for
bread, are examples of the same kind. In desig
nating baptism, to avoid all disputes, we have
adopted the original, baptize These phrases
are very soon understood by the people ; for they
are not only referred to in our discourses,
and explained daily in our schools, but the
natives themselves are constantly conveying such
information from one to another.
Government. — The governments of the va
rious islands present many points of resemblance,
but almost every group has some peculiarities.
At Tongatabu, the chiefs are elected and their
power limited ; while at the surrounding islands,
they are hereditary and despotic. At the Sa
moas every settlement is a little independent
state, governed by its own chief or chiefs, who
did not appear to me to possess very extensive
authority. Indeed, I was informed, that, if a
chief was oppressive, it was not an unfrequent
occurrence for the tribe to assemble, and con
demn him to death. In this case, his son, or
some other relative, was generally nominated

I

13S

GOVERNMENT— WARS— AMUSEMENTS.

as his successor. During war an aged chieftain
was appointed both to preside in their councils
and to act as generalissimo.
There appears to be no principal chief exer
cising kingly authority over the whole group, as
at the Society and other islands, unless Tama
fainga, whose office was in many respects pecu
liar, might be so considered. Yet a power of
this kind must have been vested somewhere ;
for a month or two prior to my arrival, an influ
ential chief, who had endeavoured to excite a
war, was put to death, after a regular trial.
This trial lasted three days ; and the execution
took place on the day after it was terminated.
I suppose the authority in such cases to have
been vested in Malietoa and others ; for imme
diately after this event, the whole tribe came to
Sapapalii, each carrying a stick of firewood, a
stone, and some leaves : and on arriving in front
of Malietoa's dwelling, they prostrated them
selves, and held out the token of their submis
sion. The chief then ordered them to arise,
and cast away these emblems of their degrada
tion ; and having done this, they entered his
house, kissed his feet, and, after receiving assur
ances of pardon, presented cloth and mats as
an atonement, and returned home. As wood,
stones, and leaves are used in preparing the
native ovens, they may have been designed to
signify that the culprits were at the mercy of the
chief, and that they had brought the materials
with which they' might be baked, if he com
manded it ; or the act may have been intended
simply to intimate that they were his slaves, to
cook his food, and perform his servile work.
The custom prevails also, with a slight varia
tion, both at Tongatabu and the Fiji Islands.
Thieving is punished so severely at the Sa
moas that it is seldom practised among them
selves ; but they have no scruples or fears in
pilfering from ships and foreigners. A very
important distinction, however, exists between
the maio and vaivai, or the victorious and the
vanquished. The former, or weak ones, gene
rally " go to the wall," and their settlements are
plundered almost at discretion by the stronger
party. Wars. — The wars at the Navigators group
were exceedingly frequent. Of this some idea
may be formed by the following circumstance.
The island of Aborima was the national fort
ress of the people of Manono. These, although
ignorant of the art of writing, kept an account
of the number of battles they had fought by
depositing a stone, of a peculiar form, in a
basket, which was very carefully fastened to the
ridge pole of a sacred house for that purpose.
This was let down, and the stones were counted
when I was there, and the number was one hun
dred and ninety-seven ! How much does such a
people need that Gospel which alone can subdue
the fierce passions of our nature, and cause wars
to cease from the ends of the earth ! In these
conflicts the club, the jagged spear, and the
sling were their usual weapons ; but the bow
does not appear to have been used in their bat
tles. The accompanying plate will give an idea
of the instruments of war used at these and

other islands. The Samoans are exceedingly
expert in hurling the spear, as the following in
cident will evince. Matetau was one day on
board a ship, when the captain wished him to
aim at a ring, about four or five inches in di
ameter, which he had made on the foresail. The
chief took his station on the quarter- deck, about
eighty feet from the spot, poised his spear for a
moment or two, and then darted it through the
centre of the ring.
Although not addicted to cannibalism, which
they speak of with great horror and detestation,
the wars of the Samoans were exceedingly cruel.
That which raged during my first visit, continued
with unabated fury for several months ; and
when it terminated, many of the vanquished
party were thrown indiscriminately into large
fires. During this distressing period, the native
Missionaries informed me that canoes were con
stantly arriving with the remains of those who
had fallen in the contest ; and that on theBe oc
casions the dismal howlings and lamentations
of the relatives, their frantic behaviour, the
frightful lacerations they inflicted upon them
selves with shells and sharks' teeth, together
with the horrid appearance of the victims, kept
them in a state of intense excitement and dis
tress. The extent of the desolation produced
by their conflicts may he estimated by the cir
cumstance, that I sailed along the beautiful
coast of Ana, the seat of war, about eleven
months after its termination, and did not observe
a house or an inhabitant for at least ten miles.
Paraifara, whom I met at Manua, informed us
that they scalp their victims, and present the
scalp, with some ava, either to the king or to
the relatives of those who have fallen in battle,
by whom it is highly prized. A circumstance
of this kind occurred in the war already referred
to. A scalp was brought to a. young woman
whose father had been killed. This she burnt,
and having beat it to powder, she strewed the
ashes upon the fire with which she cooked her
food, and devoured the meat with savage satis
faction. To so great an extent is the principle
of revenge carried in all the islands of the
Pacific! How truly benign the spirit of the
Gospel appears when contrasted with such a
system, and what a happy world ours would be
if all mankind were under its blessed influence !
Amusements. — Aware of the volatile disposi
tion cf the Samoa islanders, we were not sur
prised to find that a considerable portion of their
time and attention was devoted to games and
pastimes. These they appear to enjoy amazingly ;
and to this, perhaps, their comparative freedom
from care may greatly contribute : for, while
millions in other lands are racked with intense
anxiety as to what they shall eat, what they
shall drink, and wherewithal they shall be
clothed, the light-hearted Samoan scarcely gives
these things a thought ; and, while civilized man
is undermining the very foundations of the
earth, and traversing the ocean for years to
gether, in voluntary exile from country and
home, exploring all regions and braving all
climes to obtain food and raiment, the Samoan
plucks, at pleasure, a few leaves from his trees

WAR WEAPONS.

139

.!h

3

P

u

13

£3

«

J3

,

a

be

-a

o

3 bo

-i
CO 1— 1
<
OS 00
<D
ft
-C
M
rt
P
CD
-d
M
|S
<f
0» ¦ '¦
bO
T3
-d
-o
u
3
HH
3
==i
¦y
a
Ti
bn
ft
.a
o
W
H
<)
<!
rt bp
o d
as
<jCa
.1
-d a
a CC
° . a
aw §*
02 . .3
j J oi
«Tp bo
a* -2 °3
"3 oi
and makes a garment; gathers some bread
fruit from his luxuriant grove ; spends an hour
or two in catching the fish which swarm his
shores ; and thus, without care or exertion, ob
tains that for which others labour and groan.
Thus, free from solicitude, he spends his days
in mirth. Wrestling, boxing, club-fighting,
canoe-rowing, fowling, and dancing, are their
favourite pastimes ; but as minute descriptions
of these have been furnished by Captain Cook,
Mr. Ellis, and others, I shall dismiss them with
one or two passing observations. The evening
140

COMPOSITIONS— SAMOA PECULIARITIES.

dance of the Samoans is their principal amuse
ment, when songs are sung which were previ
ously composed and set to music by the women.
These are sometimes poetical. The following
is an average specimen : —
" Piotaulua* has risen ; Taulua\ also has risen ;
But the war-star has ceased to rise ;
For Sulueleele,\ with the king, has embraced the sacred
word.
And war has become a sa." J
These compositions, weaving chaplets of flow-
,X j,ki!iL,!

ers, and forming other decorations, with which
to appear at the evening exhibitions, furnish
the females with much employment.
The social habits of the Samoa islanders,
their diseases, their surgery, their method of
embalming, their manufactures, marriage cere
monies, and a variety of similar topics, I am
obliged to pass over for the present. The Plates
which are here introduced will give an idea of
the articles they manufacture.

A cap from Aitutaki, wom formerly by the master of the ceremonies at the native dances -, but now, by
the chief judge of the" island.

The comb is made of the stem of the cocoa-
nut leaflet.
The fish-hooks are made from bone, mother-
of-pearl, turtle-shell, &c.
The Samoa basket is made from the palm-
leaf, or pandanus odoratissimus.
That from Tonga, of a more substantial ma
terial, called kiekie.
But although we must omit much that is
interesting, there are a few points in which the
Samoans differ so materially from their bre
thren, that an observation upon them seems
necessary. One of these is the practice of pur
chasing their wives. One young woman was
introduced to me, for whom her husband gave
* Names of stars. -f King's daughter.
X An evil thing.

the amazing price of upwards of two hundred
pigs, besides a quantity of siapo or native cloth.
The system adopted when a person has several
wives, is to allow each to enjoy in rotation three
days' supremacy ; and this arrangement is so
well understood by them, that there is com
paratively little quarrelling among the numerous
sharers of the husband's affections.
The modes they adopt to ornament their per
sons are peculiar. Few of the women were
tatooed, but many of them were spotted. This
is what they call sengisengi, and is effected by
raising small blisters with a wick of native cloth,
which burns, but does not blaze. When these
are healed, they leave the spot a shade lighter'
than the original skin. Thus indelible devices
are imprinted. They adopt this method at the

IDEAS OF BEAUTY.— PLATE OF THE NATIVE MANUFACTURE.

141

Samoas, and tatooing at other islands, to per
petuate the memory of some important event,
or beloved and departed relative. Tepo, of
Rarotonga, whose figure was given in the fron
tispiece of a former edition of this Narrative, had
himself tatooed as he is there represented, in
consequence of the death of his ninth child.
The inhabitants of almost every group, how
ever, have their peculiar ideas as to what con
stitutes an addition to beauty. In the Solo
mon's Islands the natives pierce the sides of
their noses, and introduce rings made of turtle
shell. I saw a man from this group, who had
upwards of twenty of these hanging from his
nose. At the Austral group, they are famous
for boring their ears, and introducing pieces of
stick and other substances, size after size, until
the hole becomes an inch or an inch and a half
in diameter. In the Tahitian and Society
Islands, from the moment of the child's birth,
the mothers were constantly employed in per
forming two operations ; the one was compress
ing the forehead and back part of the head, to
give it a flat rather than an elongated shape ;
and the other was flattening the nose ; both of
which, in their estimation, added much to the
beauty ofthe person. The natives have frequently
said to me, " What a pity it is that English
mothers pull the children's noses so much, and
make them so frightfully long."

m

Bamboo pillow.

Comb.

Mangaia club.

¦H _
Tonga basket.

142

OBJECTS OF WORSHIP— DEIFIED ANCESTORS.

CHAPTER XXXI.
Religions of the Polynesians— Difference between the
Superstitions of the Samoans and other Islanders —
Objects of Worship — Deified Ancestors — Dedication of
Children — The Christian and Heathen Mother — Idols
— Etus — Tangaloa — Modes of Worship — Invocations —
Mutilations— Human Sacrifices — Occasions for which
they were required — Mode of procuring them — Affect
ing Incidents— Future State — Terms of Admission to
their Paradise— Cruel Rite of the Fijians — Prevalence
of Infanticide — Illustrations of this — Contrast between
the former and present state of the Children — Scene at
School Anniversary — Recovery of a Daughter— Alleged
Reasons for Infanticide — Method of performing it-
Necessity for, and Power of the Gospel.
Religion. — The religious system of the Sa
moans differs essentially from that which ob
tained at the Tahitian, Society, and other islands
with which we are acquainted. They have
neither maraes, nor temples, nor altars, nor
offerings ; and consequently, none of the bar
barous and sanguinary rites observed at the
other groups. In consequence of this, the Sa
moans were considered an impious race, and
their impiety became proverbial with the people
of Rarotonga ; * for, when upbraiding a person
who neglected the worship of the gods, they
would call him " a godless Samoan." But, al
though heathenism was presented to us by the
Samoans in a dress different from that in which
we had been accustomed to see it, having no
altars stained with human blood, no maraes,
strewed with the skulls and bones of its nume
rous victims, no sacred groves devoted to rites
of which brutality and sensuality were the most
obvious features, this people had " lords many
and gods many ; " — their religious system was
as obviously marked as any other with absur
dity, superstition, and vice ; — and its followers
stand as much in need of the Gospel as the
cannibal New Zealander, who feasts on the
quivering limbs of his victim, or the infatuated
Tahitian, whose gods were gorged with the
blood of the sacrifices which were presented
upon their altars. When, however, we consider
the importance which the Tahitians and Ra
rotongans attached to their idols, maraes, and
religious ceremonies, and the intimate manner
in which these were interwoven with their
political, civil, and social institutions, we can
not wonder that they should regard those as
impious, whose worship was destitute of such
appendages. In order, however, to furnish a sketch of the
religion of the Polynesians as correct and com
prehensive as my limits will permit, I shall offer
some observations upon four points : — their gods ;
the nature of their worship ; their ideas of a fu
ture state : and the means they adopt to secure
final happiness.
The objects worshipped by them were of three
kinds — their deified ancestors, their idols, and
their etus. Many of their ancestors were deified
for conferring supposed benefits upon mankind.
It was believed, for example, that the world was
formerly in darkness ; but that one of their pro-
* This is an additional proof that intercourse existed
between them prior to their acquaintance with Europeans.

genitors, by a most absurd process, created the
sun, moon, and stars. For this he was wor
shipped, until the light of Christianity dawned
upon them, and revealed the Maker of all
things. Another tradition stated that the heavens
were originally so close to the earth that men
could not walk, but were compelled to crawl.
This was a serious evil ; but, at length, an in
dividual conceived the sublime idea of elevating
the heavens to a more convenient height. For
this purpose, he put forth his utmost energy ;
and, by the first effort, raised them to the top of
a tender plant, called teve, about four feet high.
There he deposited them until he was refreshed ;
when, by a second effort, he lifted them to the
height of a tree called kauariki, which is as
large as the sycamore. By the third attempt
he carried them to the summits of the moun
tains ; and, after a long interval of repose, and
by a most prodigious effort, he elevated them to
their present situation. This vast undertaking,
however, was greatly facilitated by myriads of
dragon flies, which, with their wings, severed
the cords that confined the heavens to the earth.
Now this individual was deified ; and up to the
moment that Christianity was embraced, the
deluded inhabitants worshipped him as " the
Elevator of the heavens."
Besides this class, they had the god of the
fisherman, of the husbandman, of the voyager *,
of the thief, and of the warrior. All these are
said to have been men who were deified on ac
count of their eminence in such avocations.
Many mothers dedicated their children to one
of these deities, but principally to Hiro, the
god of thieves, and to Oro, the god of war. If
to the former, the mother, while pregnant, went
to the marae with the requisite offerings, when
the priest performed the ceremony of catching
the spirit of the god, with the snare previously
described, and infusing it into the child even
prior to its birth, that it might become a clever
and desperate thief. Most parents, however,
were anxious that their children should become
brave and renowned warriors. This appears to
have been the very summit of a heathen mother's
ambition, and, to secure it, numerous ceremonies
were performed before the child was born ; and
after its birth it was taken to the marae, and
formally dedicated to Oro. The spirit of the
god was then caught, and imparted to the in
fant, and the ceremony was completed by nume
rous offerings and prayers. At New Zealand,
stones were thrust down the throat of the babe,
to give it a stony heart, and make it a dauntless
and desperate warrior.
How striking the contrast between the feel
ings and wishes of the Christian and the heathen
mother ! The one devotes her babe to the God
of love and mercy ; the other dedicates hers to
the god of murder, or of fraud ; the one would
give her infant a heart of stone ; the other prays
that it may receive a heart of flesh. Who hath
made us to differ, and what thanks does he de
mand! Every hour should witness our devoted-
ness, and every passing breeze should be loaded
• See description of idols, p. 29.

ETUS— TANGALOA— MODES OF WORSHIP.

143

with our praises to Him, whose gracious hand
has fixed the bounds of our habitation, and
spread open before us the volume of his truth.
" The lines," indeed, " are fallen to us in plea
sant places ; we have a goodly heritage." And
can we better express our gratitude, than by ef
forts to enrich others with the blessings which
we ourselves so fully enjoy 1 If Christians
would but estimate the extent of their obliga
tions by the magnitude of their mercies, " the
earth would soon be filled with the knowledge
of the Lord."
Idols formed the second class of objects re
garded with religious veneration. These were
different in almost every island and district. I
do not recollect to have seen two precisely simi
lar representations of the same deity, except
those placed on the fishing canoes. Some were
large, and some were small ; some were beauti
ful, while others were exceedingly hideous. The
god-makers do not appear to have followed any
pattern, but were left to display their folly ac
cording to their own fancy ; and " professing
themselves to be wise, they became fools, and
changed the glory of the incorruptible God into
an image, made like to corruptible man, and
to birds, and four-footed beasts, and creeping
things." The third object of worship was the etu, the
nature of which I have already described. It
consisted of some bird, fish, or reptile, in which
the natives believed that a spirit, resided. This
form of idolatry prevailed much more at the Sa
moas than at any other islands. There, innu
merable objects were regarded as etus, and many
of them were exceedingly mean. It was by no
means uncommon to see an intelligent chief
muttering some prayer to a fly, an ant, or a li
zard, which happened to alight or crawl in his
presence. On one occasion a vessel from New
South Wales touched at the Samoas, the captain
of which had on board a cockatoo that talked.
A chief was invited to the ship, and shortly after
he entered the cabin the captain began a collo
quy with the bird. At this he was struck with
amazement, trembled exceedingly, and immedi
ately sprang upon deck, leaped into the sea, and
called aloud to the people to follow him, affirm
ing the captain had his devolo on board, which
he had both seen and heard. Every native
dashed at once into the sea, and swam on shore
with haste and consternation ; and it was with
much difficulty that they could be induced to
revisit the ship, as they believed that the bird
was the captain's etu, and that the spirit of the
devil was in it. While walking, on one occa
sion, across a small uninhabited island, in the
vicinity of Tongatabu, I happened to tread
upon a nest of sea-snakes. At first I was
startled at the circumstance, but being assured
that they were perfectly harmless, I desired a.
native to kill the largest of them as a specimen.
We then sailed to another island, where a num
ber of heathen fishermen were preparing their
nets. Taking my seat upon a stone under a tou
tree, I desired my people to bring the reptile, and
dry it on the rocks ; but as soon as the fisher
men saw it, they raised a most terrific yell, and,

seizing their clubs, rushed upon the Christian
natives, shouting, " You have killed our god,
you have killed our god!" I stepped in be
tween them, and with some difficulty stayed
their violence, on the condition that the reptile
should be immediately carried back to the boat.
This incident shows, not only that they worship
these things, but that they regard them with the
most superstitious veneration. Thus " they feed
on ashes ; a deceived heart hath turned them
aside ; they cannot deliver their souls, nor say,
Is there not a lie in our right handt" What
an unspeakable privilege, to know the only true
God in all his glorious perfections ; and, when
comparing him with the contemptible deities of
the heathen, to be able, uupresumptuously to
say, " And this God is our God, for ever and
ever!" In addition to these objects of adoration, the
islanders generally, and the Samoans in parti
cular, had a vague idea of a Supreme Being,
whom they regarded as the creator of all things,
and the author of their mercies. They call him
Tangaloa; and I was informed that, at their
great feasts, prior to the distribution of the food,
an orator arose, and, after enumerating each
article, exclaimed, " Thank * you, great Tan
galoa, for this !" This idea of a Supreme Be
ing appears among the few remaining traces of
the great original truths which were too deeply
fixedin the mind, and too widely spread amongst
the tribes of man, to be wholly lost. What an
apostolic employment and privilege has the in
dividual who goes forth to such a people with
the announcement, "Whom ye therefore igno-
rantly worship, Him declare I unto you!"
The worship presented to these deities con
sisted in prayers, incantations, and offerings of
pigs, fish, vegetable food, native cloth, canoes,
and other valuable property. To these must be
added, human sacrifices, which, at some of the
islands, were iearfully common. An idea may
be formed of their addresses to the gods from
the sentence with which they invariably con
cluded. Having presented the gift, the priest
would say, " Now, if you are a god of mercy,
come this way, and be propitious to this offer
ing ; but, if you are a god of anger, go outside
the world, you shall neither have temples, offer
ings, nor worshippers here." The infliction of
injuries upon themselves, was another mode in
which they worshipped their gods. It was a
frequent practice with the Sandwich islanders,
in performing some of their rites, to knock out
their front teeth ; and the Friendly islanders,
to cut off one or two of the bones of their little
fingers. This, indeed, was so common, that
scarce an adult could be found who had not in
this way mutilated his hands. On one occasion
the daughter of a chief, a fine young woman
about eighteen years of age, was standing by
my side, and as I saw by the state of the wound
that she had recently performed the ceremony,
I took her hand, and asked her why she had cut
* This is the only group of islands we visited where
the natives have a word for " Thank you." Neither at
the Sandwich, Tahitian, or Hervey group, have they
any such expression.

144

CRUEL RITES— HUMAN SACRIFICES.

off her finger 1 Her affecting reply was, that
her mother was ill, and that, fearful lest her
mother should die, she had done this to induce
the gods to save her. " Well," I said, " how
did you do it %" " Oh," she replied, " I took
a sharp shell, and worked it about till the joint
was separated, and then I allowed the blood to
stream from it. This was my offering to per
suade the gods to restore my mother." When,
at a future period, another offering is required,
they sever the second joint of the same finger;
and when a third or a fourth is demanded, they
amputate the same bones of the other little
finger ; and when they have no more joints
which they can conveniently spare, they rub the
stumps of their mutilated fingers with rough
stones, until the blood again streams from the
wound. Thus " are their sorrows multiplied
who hasten after other gods."
But the most affecting and horrible of their
religious observances was that of presenting hu
man victims.
This system did not prevail at the Naviga
tors ; but at the Hervey group, and still more
at the Tahitian and Society Islands, it was car
ried to an extent truly appalling. There was
one ceremony called Raumatavehi raa, the feast
of Restoration, at which no less than seven hu
man victims were always required. This festi
val was celebrated after an invading army had
driven the inhabitants to the mountains, and
had desecrated the marae by cutting down the
branches of the sacred trees, and cooking their
food with them, and with the wooden altars
and decorations of the sacred place. As soon
as the retirement of the invaders allowed the
refugees to leave their hiding-place, their first
object was to celebrate this " Feast of Restora
tion," which was supposed to restore tbe marae
to its previous sanctity, and to reinstate the god
in his former glory.
A few years ago, I sent to England a very
sacred relic called Maro ura, or the red sash.
This was a piece of network, about seven inches
wide and six feet long, upon which the red
feathers of the paroquet were neatly fastened.
It was used at the inauguration of their greatest
kings, just as the crown is with us, and the most
honourable appellation which a chief could re
ceive was, Arii maro ura, " King of the Red
Sash." A new piece, about eighteen inches in
length, was attached at the inauguration of every
sovereign ; to accomplish which several human
victims were required. The first was for the
mau raa titi, or the stretching it upon pegs in
order to attach it to the new piece. Another
was necessary for the fatu raa, or attaching the
new portion ; and a third for the p iu raa, or
twitching the sacred relic off the pegs. This not
only invested the sash itself with a high measure
of solemn importance, but also rendered the
chiefs who wore it most noble in public estima
tion. On the eve of war, also, human victims
were invariably offered. Perhaps a correct idea
of this dreadful system may be suggested by a
brief relation of the circumstances under which
the very last Tahitian victim was slain, and pre
sented to the gods. Pomare was about to fight

a battle which would confirm him in, or deprive
him of, his dominions. To propitiate the gods,
therefore, by the most valuable offerings he could
command, was with him an object of the highest
concern. For this purpose, rolls of native cloth,
pigs, fish, and immense quantities of other food,
were presented at the maraes ; but still a tabu,
or sacrifice, was demanded. Pomare, therefore,
sent two of his messengers to the house of the
victim, whom he had marked for the occasion.
On reaching the place, they inquired of the wife
where her husband was. She replied, that he
was in such a place, planting bananas. "Well,"
they continued, " we are thirsty, give us some
cocoa-nut water." She told them that she had
no nuts in the house, but that they were at li
berty to climb the trees, and take as many as
they desired. They then requested her to lend
them the o, which is a piece of iron-wood, about
four feet long, and an inch and a half in diame
ter, with which the natives open the cocoa-nut.
She cheerfully complied with their wishes, little
imagining that she was giving them the instru
ment which, in a few moments, was to inflict a
fatal blow upon the head of her husband. Upon
receiving the o, the men left the house, and
went in search of their victim ; and the woman,
having become rather suspicious, followed them
shortly after, and reached the place just in time
to see the blow inflicted, and her husband fall.
She rushed forward to give vent to her agonized
feelings, and take a last embrace ; but she was
immediately seized, and bound hand and foot,
while the body of her murdered busband was
placed in a long basket made of cocoa-nut leaves,
and borne from her sight. It appears that they
were always exceedingly careful to prevent the
wife, or daughter, or any female relative from
touching the corpse, for so polluting were fe
males considered, that a victim would have been
desecrated, by a woman's touch or breath, to
such a degree as to have rendered it unfit for an
offering to the gods. While the men were car
rying their victim to the marae, he recovered
from the stunning effect of the blow, and, bound
as he was in the cocoa-nut leaf basket, he said
to his murderers, " Friends, I know what you
intend to do with me, you are about to kill me,
and offer me as a tabu to your savage gods ; and
I also know that it is useless for me to beg for
mercy, for you will not spare my life. You may
kill my body ; but you cannot hurt my soul ; for
I have begun to pray to Jesus, the knowledge
of whom the Missionaries have brought to our
island : you may kill my body, but you cannot
hurt my soul." Instead of being moved to com
passion by his affecting address, they laid him
down upon the ground, placed a stone under
his head, and, with another, beat it to pieces.
In this state they carried him to their " savage
gods." I forbear to make any comment upon
these facts, and leave them to find their own
way to the hearts of my readers, and show
them how much the heathen need the Gospel.
One of the assassins, whose business it was to
procure human sacrifices, sailed with me in my
last voyage, and not only confirmed the forego
ing statement, but detailed many other transac-

HUMAN SACRIFICES— FUTURE STATE— ADMISSION TO PARADISE. 145

tions equally tragical, in which he had been en
gaged. But painful as the incident is, it is a
relief to know that this was the very last sacri
fice ever offered to the gods ot Tahiti ; for soon
after it occurred, Christianity was embraced,
and the altars of the " savage gods" ceased to
be stained with human blood. I may also add,
that this individual was selected because, to use
his own simple phrase, he had " begun to pray
to Jesus ;" and perhaps it is not too much to
hope, that while his mangled body was being
presented to the sanguinary gods, his spirit was
entering into the presence of that Saviour, to
whom, amidst much ignorance, he had begun
to pray. "Whosoever calleth upon the name
of the Lord, shall be saved."
The manner in which human victims were
sought is strikingly illustrative of many passages
of Scripture which portray the character of hea
thenism. As soon as the priest announced that
such a sacrifice was required, the king despatched
messengers to the chiefs of the various districts ;
and upon entering the dwelling they would in
quire whether the chief had a bro/cen calabash at
hand, or a rotten cocoa-nut. These and similar
terms were invariably used, and well understood,
when such applications were made. It gene
rally happened that the chief had some individual
on his premises whom he intended to devote to
this horrid purpose. When, therefore, such a,
request was made, he would notify, by a motion
of the hand or head the individual to be taken.
The only weapon with which these procurers of
sacrifices were armed was a small round stone
concealed in the hollow of their hand. With
this they would strike their victim a stunning
blow upon the back of the head, when others
who were in readiness would rush in and com
plete the horrid work. The body was then
carried, amid songs and shouts of savage triumph,
to the marae, there to be offered to the gods.
At other times, the king's gang of desperadoes
would arm themselves with spears, surround the
house of their victim, and enjoy the sport of
spearing him through the apertures between the
poles which encircled the house. In these cir
cumstances, the object of their savage amuse
ment, frenzied with pain and dread, would rush
from one part of the house to the other; but
wherever he ran he found the spear entering his
body ; and at length, perceiving no possibility
of escape, he would cover himself in his cloth,
throw himself upon the floor, and wait until a
spear should pierce his heart. There were
various other occasions, besides those I have
named, on which victims were presented ; and
the same system prevailed with but little diver
sity in all the Hervey Islands. At Rarotonga,
two human victims were invariably offered at
the birth of the son of a principal chief.
Another circumstance which rendered this
practice still more dreadful was, that as soon as
one of the family had been selected, all the
other male members of it were looked upon as
devoted to the same horrid purpose. It would
avail them nothing if they removed te another
island ; for the reason of their removal would
soon be known there ; and, whenever a sacrifice
No. 10.

was required, it would be sought amongst them.
I had- in my own service an individual who was
the last of his family, of which every other male
member had been offered in sacrifice, and he
had been eight times hunted in the mountains
with dogs ; but, being a cunning fellow and an
extraordinary runner, he had eluded his pur
suers until the inhabitants of his island embraced
the Gospel, and the "gods were famished out of
the land."
These very people, who, a few years ago,
were addicted to all these horrid practices, now
sit by thousands in places of Christian worship,
erected by themselves, clothed, and in their
right mind, and listen with intense interest to
the truths of the Gospel. A spectacle more
truly sublime it is scarcely possible for the
human mind to contemplate.
The ideas of & future state which the Polyne
sians had formed were very peculiar. ,They
believed in its existence, but were ignorant of
the value and immortality of the soul, and knew
not that eternity would be the measure of its
sorrows or its joys. The Tahitians believed
that there were two places for departed spirits :
one called Roohutu noanoa, or sweet-scented
Roohutu, which in many points resembled the
paradise of the Rarotongans ; and the other was
Roohutu namu-namua, or foul-scented Roohutu,
their description of which is too disgusting to be
inserted here. The Rarotongans represented
their paradise as a very long house, encircled
with beautiful shrubs and flowers, which never
lost their bloom or fragrance, and whose in
mates enjoyed unwithering beauty and perpetual
youth. These passed their days, without wea
riness or alloy, in dancing, festivity, and merri
ment. This was their heaven, and the highest
point to which their conceptions of blessedness
had attained. Christian, turn your thoughts
for a moment to the heaven of purity and bliss
which the Bible unveils to your view, and learn
the extent of your mercies. The hell of the
Rarotongans consisted in their being compelled
to crawl round this house, observing the plea
sures of its inmates, while racked with intense
but vain desires of admittance and enjoyment.
It appeared to me, from the limited information
I could obtain upon the subject, that the heaven
of the Samoa islanders nearly resembled that of
the Rarotongans.
The terms of entrance to this paradise, and
the reasons of exclusion from it, were entirely
ceremonial, and monstrously absurd. The
natives appear not to have formed a conception
of any moral prerequisites for a future state ; and,
indeed, this was consistent enough with the
sensual bliss they desired, and for which no
such preparation was requisite. In order to
secure the admission of a departed spirit to
future joys, the corpse was dressed in the best
attire the relatives could provide, the head was
wreathed with flowers, and other decorations
were added. A pig was then baked whole, and
placed upon the body of the deceased, sur
rounded by a pile of vegetable food. After
this, supposing the departed person to have
been a son, the father would thus address the

146

HORRID RITE OF THE FIJIANS— INFANTICIDE.

corpse : — " My son, when you were alive I
treated you with kindness, and when you were
taken ill I did my best to restore you to health ;
and now you are dead, there's your momoe o, or
property of admission. Go, my son, and with
that gain an entrance into the palace of Tiki,*
and do not come to this world again to disturb
and alarm us." The whole would then be
buried ; and, if they received no intimation to
the contrary within a few days of the interment,
the relatives believed that the pig and the other
food had obtained for him the desired admit
tance. If, however, a cricket was heard on the
premises, it was considered an ill omen ; and
they would immediately utter the most dismal
howliugs, and such expressions as the follow
ing : — "Oh, our brother! his spirit has not
entered tbe paradise ; he is suffering from
hunger, he is shiveringwith cold !" Forthwith
the grave would be opened, and the offering
repeated. This was generally successful.
The Fiji islanders present more costly sacri
fices. There the chiefs have from twenty to a
hundred wives, according to their rank : and, at
the interment of a principal chief, the body is
laid in state upon a spacious lawn, in the pre
sence of an immense concourse of spectators.
The principal wife, after the utmost ingenuity
of the natives has been exercised in adorning
her person, then walks out and takes her seat
near the body of her husband, when a rope is
passed round ner neck, which eight or ten pow
erful men pull with all their strength until she
is strangled and dies. Her body is then laid by
that of the chief. This done, a second wife
comes and seats herself in the same place. The
process is repeated, and she also dies. A third
and a fourth become voluntary sacrifices in the
same manner : and all of them are then interred
in a common grave, one above, one below, and
one on either side of the husband. The reasons
assigned for this are, that the spirit of the chief
may not be lonely in its passage to the invisible
world, and that by such an offering its happiness
may be at once secured. Thus gross and horri
ble is the darkness that covers the earth.
Infanticide. — This practice did not prevail
either at the Navigators or Hervey groups ; but
the extent to which it was carried at the Tahi
tian and Society Islands almost exceeds credi
bility. Of this, however, I may enable the
reader to form some estimate by selecting a few
out of numberless circumstances which have
come within my own knowledge. Generally, I
may state that, in the last mentioned group, I
never conversed with a female that had borne
children prior to the introduction of Christianity,
who had not destroyed some of them, and fre
quently as many as from five to ten. During
the visit of the Deputation, our respected friend,
G. Bennett, Esq., was our guest for three or four
months ; and, on one occasion, while conversing
on the subject, he expressed a wish to obtain
accurate knowledge of the extent to which this
cruel system had prevailed. Three women were
sitting in the room at the time, making Euro-
* The name of the god of this paradise.

pean garments, under Mrs. W.'s direction; and,
after replying to Mr. Bennett's inquiries, I said,
" I b.ave no dpubt but that each of these women
have destroyed some of their children." Look
ing at them with an expression of surprise and
incredulity, Mr. B. exclaimed, " Impossible !
such motherly, respectable women* could never
have been guilty of so great an atrocity."
" Well," I added, " we '11 ask theni." Address^
ing the first, I said to her, " Friend, how many
children have you destroyed % " She was startled
at my question, and at first charged me with
unkindness, in harrowing up her feelings by
bringing the destruction of her babes to her re
membrance; but, upon hearing the object of
my inquiry, she replied, with a faltering voice,
" I have destroyed nine." The second, with
eyes suffused with tears, said, " I have destroyed
seven;" and a third informed us that she had
destroyed five. Thus three individuals, casually
selected, had killed one-and-twenty children!
but I am happy to add that these mothers were,
at the time of this conversation, and continued
to be, so long as I knew them, consistent mem
bers of the church under my care.
On another occasion, I was called to visit the
wife of a chief in dying circumstances. She
had professed Christianity for many years, had
learned to read when nearly sixty, and was a
very active teacher in our adult school. In the
prospect of death', she sent a pressing request
that I would visit her immediately ; and, on
entering her apartment, she exclaimed, " Oh,
servant of God ! come and tell me what I must
do." Perceiving that she was suffering great
mental distress, I inquired the cause of it ; when
she replied, " I am about to die, I am about to
die." "Well," I rejoined, "if it be so, what
creates this agony of mind V " Oh, my sins,
my sins ! " she cried ; " I am about to die." I
then inquired what the particular sins were
which sp greatly distressed her ; when she ex
claimed, " Oh, my children, my murdered chil
dren ! I am about to die, and I shall meet them
all at the judgment-seat of Christ." Upon this
I inquired how many children she had destroyed ;
and to my astonishment, she replied, " I have
destroyed sixteen ! and now I am about to die."
As soon as my feelings would allow me, I began
to reason with her, and urged the consideration
that she had done this when a heathen, and
during "the times of ignorance, which God
winked at ;" but this afforded her no consola
tion, and again she gave vent to her agonised
feelings by exclaiming, " Oh, my children, my
children !" 1 then directed her to " the faithful
saying, which is worthy of all acceptation, that
Christ Jesus came into the world to save sin
ners." This imparted a little comfort; and,
after visiting her frequently, and directing her
thoughts to that blood which cleanseth from all
sin, I succeeded, by the blessing of God, in
tranquillizing her troubled spirit ; and she died
* It is a fact which I have often observed, and one
worthy of special notice, that the influence of religion is
manifested not only in the character but even in the
countenance, by changing the wild and vacant stare of
the savage into the mild expression of the Christian.

INFANTICIDE.

14'/

about eight days after my first interview, ani
mated with the hope, " that her sins, though
many, would all be forgiven her." And what
but the Gospel could have brought such conso
lation? I believe that, without the grand truth
of pardon by the blood of Christ, I might have
reasoned with her from that time to the
present in vain. But I forbear all comment ;
for if such facts fail to demonstrate the value of
missions, no observations of mine will do so.
Frequently have our feelings been most
powerfully excited, at the examination of our
school children ; and scenes more affecting than
some which have been witnessed on such oc
casions it is scarcely possible to conceive. One
of these, which occurred at my own station at
Raiatea, I will briefly describe. Upwards of
six hundred children were present. A feast
was prepared for them, and they walked through
the settlement in procession, most of them
dressed in European garments, with little hats
and bonnets made by those very parents who
would have destroyed them, had not Christianity
come to their rescue. The children added much
to the interest of the day, by preparing flags
with such mottoes as the following : " What a
blessing the Gospel is !" " The Christians of
England sent us the Gospel." " Had it not
been for the Gospel, we should have been de
stroyed as soon as we were born." On some, texts
of Scripture were inscribed : " Behold the Lamb
of God which taketh away the sins ofthe world ;"
" Suffer little children to come unto me ;" and
other similar passages. Insensible indeed must
he have been, who could have witnessed such a
scene without the liveliest feelings of delight.
After proceeding through the settlement, they
were conducted to the spacious chapel, and
opened service by singing the Jubilee hymn in
the native language. The venerable old king
then took the chair. He had been worshipped
as a god, and had led fierce warriors to the
" battle and the fight," but he evidently felt
that he had never occupied a station so de
lightful or honourable as that of presiding at
the examination of the children of his people.
These were placed in the centre of the chapel,
and the parents occupied the outer seats. Each
class was then called up and examined, and,
after this, individuals from the different classes
were selected, and questioned by the Missionary.
While this was proceeding, the appearance of
the parents was most affecting. The eyes of
some were gleaming with delight, as the father
said to the mother, or the mother to the father,
"What a mercy it is that we spared our dear
girl !" Others, with saddened countenances,
and faltering voices, lamented in bitterness that
they had not saved theirs ; and the silent tear,
as it stole down the cheeks of many, told the
painful tale that all their children were de
stroyed. In the midst of our proceedings, a
venerable chieftain, grey with age, arose, and
with impassioned look and manner, exclaimed,
" Let me speak ; I must speak !" On obtain
ing permission, he thus proceeded, " Oh that I
had known that the Gospel was coming! oh
that I had known that these blessings were in

store for us, then I should have saved my chil
dren, and they would have been among this
happy group, repeating these precious truths ;
but, alas ! I destroyed them all, I have not one
left." * Turning to the chairman, who was
also a relative, he stretched out his arm, and
exclaimed, " You, my brother, saw me kill
child after child, but you never seized this mur
derous hand, and said, ' Stay, brother, God is
about to bless us ; the Gospel of salvation is
coming to our shores.' " Then he cursed the
gods which they formerly worshipped, and
added, " It was you that infused this savage
disposition into us, and now I shall die child
less, although I have been the father of nineteen
children." After this he sat down, and in a
flood of tears gave vent to his agonised feel
ings. This scene occurred in my own place of wor
ship. I saw the man, and heard him utter
these expressions. I shall leave the fact to
speak for itself. Many other instances equally
affecting might be added, but I shall content
myself with mentioning but one more. This
related to a chief woman, who bad been united
in marriage to a man of inferior rank ; and it
was the universal custom to destroy the children
of such an union. The first babe was born and
put to death. The father wished the second to
be spared, but the mother, and the mother's
relatives, demanded its destruction. The third
was a fine girl. The father pleaded and en
treated that it might be saved, for his bowels
yearned over it, but the mother, and the mother's
relatives, again carried their point, and the babe
was doomed to die. One of the numerous
modes of infanticide was to put the babe in a
hole covered with a plank to keep the earth
from pressing it, and to leave it there to perish.
This method was adopted in the present in
stance. The father happened to be in the
mountains at the time of the child's birth and
interment ; but, on his return, he hastened to
the spot, opened the grave, and, finding that the
babe was not dead, he took her up, and gave
her in charge to his brother and sister, by whom
she was conveyed to the island of Aimeo, about
seventy miles distant, where they trained her
up. The husband died without having informed
his wife that their daughter was still alive.
After Christianity was embraced, the mother
was, on one occasion, bewailing most bitterly
the destruction of her children ; when a woman
who happened to be present, and who was ac
quainted with the fact of the child's disinter
ment, astonished and overwhelmed her with
the announcement that her daughter' had been
saved, and was yet living at Aimeo. A short
time after receiving this extraordinary intelli
gence she sailed to Aimeo, and, on reaching the
shore, hurried with excited feelings to the house
of her relatives, and, as she approached it, be
held with wonder and delight a fine young girl
* This chief was an airoi of the highest rank, and the
laws of his class required the destruction of all his chil
dren. In this infamous society there were a variety of
orders, not unlike those which exist among the Free
masons. L 2

148

POWER OF THE GOSPEL— RAPID PROGRESS OF THE TRUTH.

standing in the doorway. At once she re
cognised her own image in the countenance of
the child. It was her daughter. She clasped
her to her bosom — but I must leave imagination
to fill up the scene as she exclaimed, " Rejoice
with me, for this my daughter was dead and is
alive again." The mother is gone to her rest,
but her daughter is, at the present time, an
active teacher in our schools, and a consistent
member of a Christian church !
The reasons assigned for this inhuman prac
tice afford an affecting comment upon that pas
sage, " The dark places of the earth are full of
the habitations of cruelty." The first cause
alleged was their wars. These were so fre
quent, sudden, and desolating, that mothers
have often told me that, to avoid the horrors
and distress thus entailed on those who had
families, they destroyed many of their children.
A second cause, as we have already intimated,
was inequality of station. If a woman of rank
was united to a man of inferior grade, the de
struction of two, four, or six infants was re
quired to raise him to an equality with her ;
and, when this had been effected, the succeed
ing children were spared.
A third reason adduced for the practice was,
that nursing impaired the personal attractions
ofthe mother, and curtailed the period during
which her beauty would continue to bloom.
Tbe modes by which they perpetrated this
deed of darkness were truly affecting. Some
times they put a wet cloth upon the infant's
mouth ; at others, they pinched their little
throats until they expired : a third method was
to bury them alive ; and a fourth was, if pos
sible, still more brutal. The moment the child
was born, they broke tbe first joints of its fingers
and toes, and then the second. If the infant
survived this agonizing process, they dislocated
its ankles and the wrists ; and, if the powers
of endurance still continued, the knee and elbow
joints were then broken. This would generally
terminate the tortures of the little sufferer ; but
if not, they would resort to the second method
of strangulation. We had a servant in our em
ploy for fifteen years, who previously performed
infanticide as her trade ; and we have many
times listened with feelings of the deepest agony,
while she has described the manner in which
she perpetrated the horrid deed.
What a truly affecting picture do these facts
exhibit of human nature, where the light of
Divine truth has not beamed upon its darkness
— where the religion of the Gospel has not
exercised its benign influence ! They show that
the sun may shine for ages, with all its bound
less beneficence, and yet fail to kindle in man
a spirit of benevolence ; that the earth may pour
forth her abundance, and not teach man kind
ness ; that the brute creation, impelled only by
instinct, may exhibit parental fondness, and man
fail to learn the lesson. By no species of in
genuity could we instruct the beast of the field
thus barbarously to destroy their young. Even
the ferocious tiger prowls the forest for their
support, and the savage bear will fearlessly meet
death in their defence. But the facts now stated

are only in harmony with innumerable others,
which prove that in every place, and under all
circumstances, men need the Gospel. Whether
you find them upon the pinnacle of civilization,
or in the vortex of barbarism ; inhabiting the
densely-populated cities of the East, or roaming
the wilds of an African wilderness ; whether on
the wide continent, or the fertile islands of the
sea ; surrounded by the icy barriers of the poles,
or basking beneath a tropical sun ; all need the
Gospel ; and nothing but the Gospel can elevate
them from the degradation into which they have
been sunk by superstition and sin. You may
introduce among them the arts and sciences,
and by these means refine their taste, and ex
tend the sphere of their intellectual vision ; you
may convey to them our unrivalled constitution,
modified and adapted to their peculiar circum
stances, and thus throw a stronger safeguard
around their persons and property, and elevate
them from a state of barbarous vassalage to the
dignity and happiness of a free people ; but, if
you withhold the Gospel, you leave them still
under the dominion of a demoralizing and san
guinary superstition, aliens from God, and igno
rant of the great scheme of redemption through
his Son.
Let science, then, go with her discoveries ;
and philosophy, with her wisdom; and law,
with her equitable sanctions and social benefits ;
and let them exert their united influence to
bless and elevate our degraded world ; but let
it be the honour and ambition of the Christian
to convey that glorious gospel, by which alone
the regeneration and happiness of mankind can
be fully and permanently secured.

CHAPTER. XXXII.
Providential Interpositions at the Samoas — RapidProgress
of the Gospel — Debates on the subject — Native Argu
ments — Extraordinary Preparation of the People —
Raroionga— Striking Contrast between its Condition in
182a arid 1834 — Recent Intelligence from Mr. Pitman-
Various Temporal Advantages of Missionary Labours
— Useful Arts — Animal and Vegetable Productions in
troduced into the Islands— Prospective Advantages —
Connexion of Christianity and Civilization — Com
mercial Benefit of Missions— Safety to Shipping —
Dangers to which Seamen are exposed where there are
no Missionaries — Instances — Missions commended to
the Statesman — The Philosopher— The Nobleman.
Before bringing my Narrative to a conclusion,
I cannot forbear offering a few observations
upon the occurrences I have narrated. And, in
the first place, I would refer to the gracious in
terpositions of Divine Providence, which so
remarkably prepared and prospered our way at
the Navigators' Islands. Is it possible to re
flect upon the manner in which Mrs. Williams
gave her consent to the enterprise — to our
meeting with the chief at Tongatabu — to
the death of Tamafainga — and to other strik
ing particulars already narrated, without ex
claiming, " Here is evidence of something
more than accident : this is the finger of God!"
When a Missionary is called to select a suitable
place at which to commence his work of mercy,
it is essential that he should possess correct and

NATIVE MEETING— NATIVE ARGUMENTS.

149

extensive information upon a variety of topics —
such as, the character and habits of the people ;
the influence of the chiefs ; the feelings of dif
ferent parties ; the relative importance of places,
&c. Upon all these, ih reference to the Navi
gators' Islands, we were totally ignorant, until
we met with Fauea at Tongatabu, who gave
us correct and ample information upon every
point. In addition to this, he conducted us to
his relative, Malietoa, whom otherwise we should
not have known ; and, with the knowledge I
have subsequently obtained, his station appears
to me to have been the best adapted in the
whole group for the commencement of our
labours. The rapidity of the work is another
circumstance of too great importance to be over
looked. Wherever I went 1 was received with
the greatest respect, and all classes manifested
a desire for Missionaries. How different were
the circumstances of the brethren at Tahiti!
what years of toil and anxiety they endured
before this desire was created; and at New
Zealand, also, to what privations, labours, and
perils, were the devoted Missionaries of the
Church Missionary Society called for nearly
twenty years, before anything like a general desire
for instruction was evinced by the inhabitants.
At the Navigators, on the contrary, in less thah
twenty short months chapels were erected, arid
the people anxiously waiting for instructiqn.
Our Saviour has taught us to appreciate tbe
importance of this state of a people, under the
beautiful similitude of a corn-field " white unto
the harvest." I would by no means affirm that
many, or even that any, ofthe Samoans had ex
perienced a change of heart, neither do I believe
that, in the majority of the people, the desire
for Missionaries arose from a knowledge of the
spiritual character and supreme excellency of
the Gospel ; for, doubtless, they were actuated
by various motives. Some thought that, by
their embracing Christianity, vessels would be
induced to visit them ; others imagined that
thus they would be preserved from the malignity
of their gods ; many hoped by adopting the new
religion to prolong their lives ; and a few valued
it chiefly as a means of terminating their san
guinary and desolating wars. Some were un
doubtedly convinced of the folly and supersti
tion of their own religious system ;, and a few
had indistinct ideas of the soul and salvation.
But, as the natives held numerous meetings for
several months to consider this subject, at which
it was debated with all becoming gravity, an
account of one of these may enable the reader
to judge for himself. On this occasion there
was a large concourse of people ; when a vene
rable chief arose and said, " It is my wish
that the Christian religion should become uni
versal amongst us. I look," continued he, " at
the wisdom of these worshippers of Jehovah,
and see how superior they are to us in every
respect. Their ships are like floating houses,
so that they can traverse the tempest-driven
ocean for months with perfect safety ; whereas,
if a breeze blow upon our canoes, they are in an
instant upset, and we sprawling in the sea.
Their persons also are covered from head to

foot in beautiful clothes, while we wear nothing
but a girdle of leaves. Their axes are so hard
and sharp, that, with them, we can easily fell
our trees and do our work, but wifh our stone
axes we must dub, dub, dub, day after day, be
fore we can cut down a single tree. Their
knives, tod, what valuable things they are!
how quickly they cut up our pigs, compared
with our bamboo knives ! Now I conclude that
the God who has given to his white worshippers
these valuable things must be wiser than our
gods,, for they have not given the like to us.
We all want these articles ; and my proposition
is, that the God who gave them should be our
God." As this speech produced a powerful
impression, a sensible priest, after a shprt
pause, arose and endeavoured to weaken it by
saying that he had nothing to advance against
the lotu, which might be good or bad, but he
wished them not to be in haste. " The people
who have brought us this religion," he added,
" may want our lands and our women. I do
not say that such is the case, hut it may be so.
My brother has praised the wisdom of these
white foreigners. Suppose, then, we were to
visit their country, and say that Jehovah was
not the, true God, and invite them to cast him
off, and become worshippers of Tangaroa, of the
Samoa Islands, what reply would they make 1
Would they not say, Don't be in haste ; let us
know something more of Tangaroa, and the
worship he requires 1 Now I wish the Samoans
to act just as these wise English people would,
under the same circumstances ; and to know
something, more about this new religion before
they abandon that which our ancestors vene
rated." But, whatever might have been their
motives, it is certain that the new religion was
highly esteemed by all classes ; that the desire
for Missionaries was intense ; that at many
stations the people had erected places of wor
ship ; were accustomed to prepare their food on
the Saturday, and to assemble at six o'clock on
the Sabbath morning, sit in silence for an hour
or more, and repeat this, a second, and even a
third time, during the day. Does the history
of the church furnish a more striking or beauti
ful fulfilment of the prophetic declaration, "The
isles shall wait for his law !" So anxious, in
deed, were the people for some one to conduct
their religious services, that they made collec
tions of mats, food, &c, which they gave to
runaway sailors, some of whom read portions
of the English Scriptures or prayer-book ; and
others were vile enough to sing infamous songs
in the English language, and to assure the poor
people that this was the worship acceptable to
God. In reference also to Rarotonga, I cannot for
bear drawing a contrast between the state of
the inhabitants when I first visited them, in
1823, and that in which I left them, in 1834.
In 1823 I found them all heathens; in 1834
they were all professing Christians. At the
former period I found them with idols and ma
raes ; these, in 1834, were destroyed, and, in
their stead, there were three spacious and sub
stantial places of Christian worship, in which
L 3

150

STRIKING CONTRAST— MR. BUZACOTT'S LETTER.

congregations, amounting to six thousand per
sons, assembled every Sabbath-day; I found
them without a written language, and left them
reading in their own tongue the " wonderful
works of God." I found them without a know
ledge of the Sabbath ; and when I left them no
manner of work was done during that sacred
day. When I found them, in 1823, they were
ignorant of the nature of Christian worship ;
and when I left them, in 1834, I am not aware
that there was a, house in the island where
family prayer was not observed every morning
and every evening. I speak not this boastingly ;
for our satisfaction arises not from receiv
ing such honours, but in casting them at
the Saviour's feet; "for his arm hath got
ten him the victory,'' and " He shall bear
THE GLOKV."
What has been said of Rarotonga is equally
applicable to the whole Hervey Island group ;
for, with the exception of a few at Mangaia, I

believe there does not remain a single idolater,
or vestige of idolatry, in any one of the islands.
I do not assert, I would not intimate, that all
the people are real Christians; but I merely
state the delightful fact, that the inhabitants of
this entire group have, in the short space of ten
years, abandoned a dark, debasing, and sangui
nary idolatry, with all its horrid rites ; and it
does appear to me that, if nothing more had
been effected, this alone would compensate for
all the privations, and labours, and expense by
which it has been effected.
I am happy to add that, a short time since, I
received letters from Messrs. Buzacott and Pit
man, which inform me that the people are in a
still more pleasing state than when I left them.
But I will allow my brethren to speak for them
selves. After giving me a full account of
Papeiha's prosperity, of whom he sent the
accompanying likeness, Mr. Buzacott writes
thus, in reference to his own station : —

' Jk

" I am truly happy to inform you that we are
still in a pleasing state of prosperity. The ex
citement* which commenced when you were
with us still continues, and, although we have
been disappointed in some instances, yet our
most sanguine expectations have been more
than realized. All the members of our churches
continue stedfast, and their zeal in visiting the
sick, and endeavouring to do all the good they
can, affords us much pleasure. You will be
delighted to hear that Makea, we hope, is a.
* This was partly produced by a very interesting inci
dent. Mauy of the people had become slack iu their
attendance on the Sabbath-day, and the chiefs sent a
message to inform us that they were about to send the
constables to make the people come to worship. Itbeinr.,
however, contrary to our views to allow coercion, we
replied by requesting them not to do so, but to allow us
to try some other method. The most pious and active
Christians were immediately selected, who appropriated
Saturday for the purpose of visiting every house, to hold
religious conversation with the inmates. This was so
exceedingly successful, that the chiefs have never since
proposed to send the constables.

decided Christian. He has continued for a
long time past to manifest a deep concern for
his eternal interests, and gave a most pleasing
and satisfactory account of his conversion and
religious experience at our last church meet
ing, when he was regularly admitted to mem
bership." Mr. Buzacott, with a camera obscura made
by himself, has taken and forwarded to me the
accompanying likeness of Makea.
Mr. B. continues to observe " that the
greatest harmony and peace prevail in the
island, and we hope that very many are seeking
the best things, and that the word preached is
' a savour of life unto life.'
" We have nearly finished another new cha
pel. It is intended to be opened next week.
It is upon the same plan as the one which fell
in the memorable hurricane. It is, however,
much firmer. Nothing has been spared to
make it secure, either in work, or iron, or tim
ber.

MR. PITMAN'S LETTER.

151

" I send you a specimen of our printing.*
Ono makes an excellent printer. He takes off
the whole of the work from me, and what he
does requires very little correction. He has
printed the hymns entirely himself."
Every part of Mr. Pitman's letter is so truly
interesting, that I scarcely know what portion
to extract from it. He observes, —
" I know it will be a source of great pleasure
to you to hear that the cause of Christ is pros
pering amongst us ; all is harmony, and things
wear a more pleasing aspect than ever. We
have numerous candidates and inquirers, many
of whom have been admitted into our little
church. Among those you will be glad to hear
is Pa, who, I hope, is sincere in giving himself
up to the Lord. On being admitted, he gave
pleasing testimony to the work of grace, which I
hope will prove to have been the genuine feel
ings of his heart. The admission of members
is a source of great anxiety. We take, however,
every possible precaution to prevent the entrance
of hypocrites." The change at our out-station is truly
astonishing. The trouble the Tupuna people
have ever given you know by experience ; now
they are peaceable and quiet ; diligent in their
attendance on Divine worship, and at the
schools ; and very active in everything that is
proposed for their welfare. They have erected a
nice chapel, and invited our good friend Irof
to become our minister.
• Mr. Buzacott obtained an old press from one of the
original stations, and some old type, both of which he
repaired, and, having taught himself printing, then
instructed the native youth of whom he speaks.
f A truly excellent Christian, a brother of Tupc, Ihe
chief judge..

" Tupe, the judge, is an invaluable assistant
to me in my labours. He has but little, very
little, to do, in his official capacity.
" Mr. Armitage has been exceedingly active
since his arrival here He has made looms and
spinning wheels for each of the stations, and
taught the people weaving. The concern is
going on well. About 350 yards of strong cali
co have been wove. We shall use every endea
vour to make it answer.
" Our schools still continue to prosper. At
Titi Kaveka we have nearly 500 children. Not
withstanding which, when I counted those in
my own school yesterday morning, there were
1034 — fifty-six were absent."
Mr. Buzacott also informs me that his school
contained nearly a thousand children, and Pa
peiha's about seven hundred ; so that, in the
island of Rarotonga only, there are upwards of
three thousand children daily receiving Christian
instruction. Thus may the word of the Lord
run and he glorified, until the natural beauties
of every island in the Pacific shall be surpassed
by the moral triumphs of the Gospel.
In reference to the islands generally it may be
observed, that the blessings conveyed to them by
Christianity have not been simply of a spiritual
character; but that civilization and commerce
have invariably followed in her train. This, I
think, must have appeared throughout the Narra
tive, and will, perhaps, be still more evident by
the following concise enumeration of the useful
arts, the animals, and the vegetable produc
tions, which have been introduced by the Mis
sionaries into the various stations they have
| occupied.

152

ARTICLES INTRODUCED— CIVILIZING EFFECTS OF CHRISTIANITY.

Ve&etable
Productions.

Animals.

A variety of valu- Goats.
able esculents. Sheep.
Pumpkins, melons, Horses.
sweet potatoes, Asses.
&c. &c. Cattle and pigs

Useful Arts.
Smith's work.
House building.
Ship building.
Lime burning.
Pruning. Sofa, chair, and Oranges, lemons, into several
bedstead making. limes. islands.
Growth and ma- Pine apples. Turkeys, geese,
nufactureof to- Custard apples. ducks, and
bacco. Coffee. fowls.
Sugar boiling. Cotton.
Tinting. Indigo.
Upon these statements a few observations
may be necessary. In communicating to the
people the useful arts specified above, I have
spent many hundreds of hours, not merely in ex
plaining and superintending the different pro
cesses, but in actual labour. For this, however,
I have been amply repaid by the great progress
which the natives have made in many of these
departments of useful knowledge, but especially
in building small vessels of from twenty to fifty
tons. More than twenty of these were sailing
from island to island when I left, two of which
belonged to the queen, and were employed in
fetching cargoes of pearl, and pearl shells, from
a group of islands to the eastward of Tahiti.
These were exchanged with the English and
American vessels for clothing and other ar
ticles. The manufacture of sugar is increasing ra
pidly. I speak within compass when I say that,
during, the year I left, upwards of a hundred
tons were exported from Tahiti only. The
culture of tobacco was completely stopped, as I
have already stated, by the prohibitory duty
which the selfish and short-sighted merchants of
New South Wales persuaded the Governor to
impose upon that article.
Cattle were left by Captain Cook at Tahiti,
but they perished; and those from which
the islands have been stocked were conveyed by
the Missionaries. When I visited New South
Wales, His Excellency Sir Thomas Brisbane
kindly gave me several. Some of these our
invaluable friend, the Rev. S. Marsden, ex
changed for others of his best Yorkshire breed,
which have multiplied exceedingly at Raiatea
and Rarotonga.
Several of the vegetable productions were in
troduced by Captain Cook, and we have not
only added many others, but conveyed those
left by him to islands which he did not
visit. Wheat cannot be grown in the islands.
English potatoes will not propagate themselves.
Cabbages do not seed, but we can preserve
them by planting the sprouts. We have tried
many ofthe English fruits, but without success.
A solitary strawberry once came to perfection,
and we divided the precious morsel into three
portions ; Mrs. Williams, myself, and our son
taking each a share. Seeds of the indigo-plant
were furnished us by Captain Laws, of H. M.
sloop Satellite, and we doubt not but that this
will shortly become an article of great commer
cial importance. Coffee-plants were conveyed
by the Missionary ship Haweis from Norfolk
Island, and are now growing luxuriantly. Se

veral of the trees have borne for some time
past, and I firmly believe that, in a few years,
cargoes of coffee as well as of arrow-root, cocoa-
nut oil, and sugar, will be shipped by our con
verts at the Missionary stations in the South
Sea Islands. Ought not a great and mighty
nation like England, with the generosity which
is allied to true greatness, to put forth her hand,
and help her infant offspring, who have been
raised from barbarism, and brought into na
tional existence, by the benevolent efforts of
her own subjects, especially as her own beloved
sovereign is styled the Protector of the Poly
nesian Isles 1
From these facts it will be apparent, that,
while our best energies have been devoted to
the instruction of the people in the truths of
the Christian religion, and our chief solicitude
has been to make them wise unto salvation,
we have, at the same time, been anxious to im
part a knowledge of all that was calculated to
increase their comforts and elevate their cha
racter. And I am convinced that the first step
towards the promotion of a nation's temporal
and social elevation, is to plant amongst them
the tree of life, when civilization and commerce
will entwine their tendrils around its trunk,
and derive supportfrom its strength. Until the
people are brought under the influence of reli
gion, they have no desire for the arts and usages
of civilized life ; but that invariably creates it.
The Missionaries were at Tahiti many years,
during which they built and furnished a house
in European style. The natives saw this, but
not an individual imitated their example. As
soon, however, as they were brought under the
influence of Christianity, the chiefs, and even
the common people, began to build neat plas
tered cottages, and to manufacture bedsteads,
seats, and other articles of furniture. The fe
males had long observed the dress of the Mis
sionaries' wives, but while heathen they greatly
preferred their own, and there was not a single
attempt at imitation. No sooner, however,
were they brought under the influence of reli
gion, than all of them, even to the lowest, as
pired to the possession pf a gown, a bonnet, and
a shawl, that they might appear like Christian
women. I could proceed to enumerate many
other changes of the same kind, but these will
be sufficient to establish my assertion. While
the natives are under the influence of their su
perstitions, they evince an inanity and torpor,
from which no stimulus has proved powerful
enough to arouse them but the new ideas and
the new principles imparted by Christianity.
And if it be not already proved, the experience
of a few more years will demonstrate the fact,
that the Missionary enterprise is incomparably
the most effective machinery that has ever been
brought to operate upon the social, the civil,
and the commercial, as well as the moral and
spiritual interests of mankind.
Nor are the heathen the only parties benefited
by such exertions. The whole civilized world,
and our own countrymen especially, share the
advantages. Without dwelling upon the im
proved state of religion in- our churches ; the

VALUE OF MISSIONS TO SHIPPING AND COMMERCE— A SHIP RESCUED. 153

holy and elevated feelings which have been
called into exercise ; the noble instances of
Christian benevolence which have been dis
played ; and the reflex influence of the mis
sionary enterprise upon home exertions ; we
may simply glance at the commercial advan
tages which have resulted and are still resulting
from these labours. In the South Sea Islands
alone, many thousands of persons are at this
moment wearing and using articles of European
manufacture, by whom, a few years ago, no
such article had been seen : indeed, in the more
advanced stations, there is scarcely an individual
who is not attired in English clothing, which
has been obtained in exchange for native pro
duce. Thus we are benefited both in what we
give and in what we receive. From a barbarous
people very little can be obtained, and even
that at the greatest possible hazard. When a
vessel enters their harbours, every precaution
must be employed. She is encircled with net
ting half way up the rigging, her guns are
loaded, and every person on board is obliged to
be on the alert, fearing an attack, and not
knowing the moment at which it may be made.
Besides these dangers, the natives, in a bar
barous state, possess not the knowledge requi
site for turning the capabilities and productions
of their islands to good account. The sugar
cane was indigenous to Tahiti ; but it is only
since the inhabitants have been Christianized,
and taught by the Missionaries, that they have
manufactured sugar, and thus converted the
cane into a valuable article of commerce. At
present, the Samoa islanders have nothing to
dispose of but a little cinet,* and small quanti
ties of tortoiseshell. In a very few years, how
ever, should our labours be successful, they
will be taught to prepare hundreds of tons of
cocoa-nut oil, and large quantities of arrow
root, annually ; to manufacture sugar ; to culti
vate their land ; and to supply our shipping
with provisions. Thus, wherever the Mis
sionary goes, new channels are cut for the
stream of commerce ; and to me it is most sur
prising that any individual at all interested in
the commercial prosperity of his country can be
otherwise than a warm friend to the Missionary
cause. The shipping of our country, too, derives as
much advantage from missions as its commerce.
This will appear if it be recollected that inter
course between Europeans and the untaught
islanders of the Pacific is always dangerous, and
has often proved fatal. The adventurous Ma
gellan fell at the Ladrone Islands ; Captain
Cook was barbarously murdered at tbe Sand
wich group ; the ship Venus was taken at Ta
hiti ; M. de Langle and his companions were
killed at the Samoas ; the Port au Prince was
seized at Lefuga ; and the crew of the Boyd
was massacred at New Zealand. And now at
all these islands, with the exception of the La
drones, there are Missionary stations, whither
-numbers of vessels direct their course annually,
the crews of which look forward with delight
« Cord made from the cocoa-nut husk.

to the hour when the anchor shall be dropped
in the tranquil lagoons, and they find a gene
rous welcome and a temporary home. That
outrages do still occur where there are no Mis
sionaries, Captain Beechy's account of his in
tercourse with the inhabitants of Easter and
Gambier Islands, and the massacre of the entire
crew of the Oldhamj at Wallace's Island, with
other similar events of more recent occurrence,
plainly demonstrate ; whilst the fact, that, in
those islands or ports where Missionaries are
settled, such acts of violence have been pre
vented, is established by evidence equally de
cisive. An incident or two may illustrate these
points. About two years before we left the islands,
an individual who had been a convict, came to
Raiatea in his own vessel ; and, having cheated
the natives of every other island at which he
had touched of their harbour-dues and pilotage,
a message was sent to request our chiefs not
to allow him to depart until they were paid.
Acting upon this information, the native officer,
a high-spirited young chief, refused to quit the
vessel until he had received the dues ; when
the captain immediately presented a loaded pis
tol at his head, which so exasperated him that
he came on shore, and collected a large body of
people, who armed themselves, and returned to
the vessel with a full determination to be
avenged. The whole population was roused to
indignation, and their temper and proceedings
were most alarming. Tamatoa, myself, and
very many of the respectable inhabitants, were
absent at the time ; but Mrs. Williams, having
been informed of the circumstance, instantly
wrote to the captain, to beg him to pay what
was due ;* and, hastening down to the beach,
she prevented more people from going off to
the ship, and sent a boat with some respectable
natives, to convey to those on board an earnest
request from her that no violence might be of
fered to the captain, and that they would im
mediately come on shore. The work of plunder
had commenced, and in a moment or two more
many lives must have been sacrificed, as the
natives were only waiting for the signal to take
possession of the ship, and the captain was
standing with loaded pistols ready in an instant
to fire into a barrel of gunpowder, to blow up
the vessel and all on board. This, however, was
happily prevented by the prompt interference
of even a Missionary's wife. This, I believe, is
the only instance in which a ship has been in
danger at any of our Missionary stations ; and
in this case it would have been prevented, not
withstanding the conduct of the captain, had
either Tamatoa or myself been at home. The
whole affair was so instantaneous, that it had
well nigh come to a tragical termination before
Mrs. Williams heard of it. On the following
day I collected the few articles which had.
been taken by the natives, and sent them after
the vessel.
* The sum, I believe, was eight dollars, -which the
captain of his Majesty's ships thought that tho native
authorities had a right to demand for the accommodation
which their excellent harbours afforded.

154

EUROPEANS SEIZED— MISSIONARY HONOUR THE GREATEST.

When my venerable brother Missionary, Mr.
Nott, came to England, in 1825, the ship called
at Ua, an island near Tongatabu. Being in
want of provisions, a boat was lowered, and the
captain, with the chief mate and a passenger,
approached the shore. While bartering with
the heathen, they and their property were all
suddenly seized. Axes were held over their
heads, knives applied to their throats, and a
rope with a noose hung over them, to signify
what they must expect if they attempted to
escape or resist. A ransom for each was then
demanded, and the chief mate was sent to fetch
it. During the whole of this awful night the
captain and his friend were kept in the greatest
terror, by a strict guard and fearful threats. In
the morning the boat was sent with property to
the value of SOI. or iOl., which the chief accepted
as an equivalent for the captain, who was per
mitted to return to his ship ; but the passenger
was detained until more property should be
sent. As soon as the captain stepped ou board,
he exclaimed, " Oh, Mr. Nott, we see now, more
than ever, what has been done by you and your
brother Missionaries, in the islands where you
have resided, and the labour you must have en
dured, in bringing the natives from what they
once were to what they now are ! "
A short time previous to this, the Essex
whaler was struck by a whale and immediately
foundered. The crew took to the boats, and were
driven to tbe terrible necessity of casting lots
for, and eating, each other. On his subsequent
voyage, the captain of this very ship called at
Raiatea ; and after giving me an account of the
horrors they endured, observed that, had he then
known the improved state of Tahiti and its ad
jacent-islands, from which they were not distant
above ten days' sail, he could have saved his
crew ; but, supposing that the inhabitants were
still savage, he thought it safer to steer for South
America, which kept them at sea ninety days,
and compelled them to suffer horrors and per
form acts, the bare recital of which can scarcely
be endured.
I forbear any further illustrations or remarks,
and simply add, that in the small island of
Huahine about thirty sail of shipping anchor
in the course of the year ; and at Tahiti, little
short of a hundred. Here the exhausted crews
recruit their strength, by roaming at pleasure
amongst the luxuriant groves, and inhaling the
fragrant air ; and here, also, the ships are sheltered,
refitted, and supplied with stores to any extent.*
Apart entirely from the value of Christianity,
no enlightened statesman can regard labours
which secure such results as those I have enu
merated, with indifference : for new havens are
found at the antipodes for our fleets : new chan-
* Cattle have increased to such an extent, that beef
can be obtained at 2d. per pound. The natives, I regret
to say, in consequence of the great demand, are begin
ning to exact exorbitant prices.

nels are opened for our commerce ; and the
friends of our country are everywhere multi
plied. To the philosopher, too, such exertions present
their claim : for new fields of discovery have
been opened, new regions explored, and wilds,
previously inaccessible to the traveller, pene
trated by the Missionary. In addition to this,
languages before unknown have been mastered
and reduced to a system ; man has been pre
sented under circumstances the most peculiar"
and interesting ; and new facts have been added
to his natural and moral history.
An enterprise, beneficial in so many ways,
presents a universal claim ; and we hope the
day is fast approaching when the merchant will
not only consecrate the gains of his merchandise
to its promotion, but when he shall also add the
facilities which commercial intercourse affords
to further the great design ; when the man of
science shall make his discoveries subserve this
godlike work ; and when not only the poor, but
the rich and noble, will feel honoured in identi
fying themselves with Missionary operations,
and in consecrating their influence, their wealth,
and even their sons and their daughters, to this
work. And why should not the son of a noble
man aspire to an office that an angelic spirit
would deem an honour 1 Why should not such
become active agents in an enterprise which is
to regenerate and bless our world % They aspire
after military and naval glory, but here they
may obtain distinctions far higher than these : —
here, instead of inflicting death in the acqui
sition of their laurels, they would scatter life
and comfort and peace to unborn millions.
And is there more glory in spreading misery
than in conveying mercy? Is it more honour
able to carry the sword of war than the Gospel
of peace % Is it a higher dignity to bear a com
mission from an earthly sovereign than from the
King of kings ? Oh ! that the minds of tbe
noble youth of our country could be directed to
this field of labour and of love, and that the
soldiers of the cross were as high in the esti
mation of our nobility as those who bear com
missions from our king. It will be a blessed
day for our world, when the first nobleman's
son, influenced by a spirit of piety, and con
strained by the " love of Christ," shall devote
himself to go among the heathen " to turn them
from darkness to light." But, whether such
forward it or not, the work will go on, enlarge
ment and deliverance will come, until the earth,
instead of being a theatre on which men pre
pare themselves by crime for eternal condemna
tion, shall become one universal temple to the
living God, in which the children of men shall
learn the anthems of the blessed above, and be
made meet to unite with the spirits of the re
deemed from every nation, and people, and
tongue, in celebrating the Jubilee of a ran
somed world !

London: Printed by William Clowes and Sons. Stamford Street.

Illlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll ^
III. Pliiil,] I riliJJ T11! ILii'l < c
3 9002 00664 6625 §