uw.aEEluHL.'.OCTTr'

BaHnHnaUfffifTOWBH

•Yi&]LIl«¥M¥IEiaSirinf' • iLnisisAisy •

Gift of
MISS THEODORA VAN NAME
1925

„ 

N A R R,A T I V E

OF THB

BRITISH EMBASSY

TO

CHINA.

JN THE YEARS I792, 1793, AND 1794,

NARRATIVE OF THE
BRITISH EMBASSY

TO

CHINA,

IN THE YEARS 1 792, 1 793, AND I794;
i
CONTAINING Tft*.
VARIOUS CIRCUMSTANCES of the EMBASSY?
WITH ACCOUNTS OP THE
CUSTOMS and MANNERS of the CHINESE;
AND A DESCRIPTION OP THE
COUNTRr TOWNS, CITIES, &c. &c.

THE THIRD EDITION.

By ^ENEAS ANDERSON,
Then in the Service of his Excellency Earl Macartney, tC. B. Amfaaflador from
the King .of, Great Britain to the Emperor of China, and now
Lieutenant of the zd Royal Manx Fencibles.

iontion t
PRINTED FOR J. DBB.R.ETT, OPPOSITE »URLINCTON-
HOUSE, PICCADILLY.

1796.

TO THK
RIGHT HONOURABLE
LORD HENRY MURRAY,
Colonel of tie Second Royal Manx Fencibles1,

Mr Lord,
VV HEN I firft publifiied this volume*
it had neither friend nor patron ; nor was it
affifted by any of thofe factitious decorations
which are fo generally employed to feduce
attention to literary' producti oris. I refled
•altogether upon the importance of the work,
and the fidelity with which it was executed,
for its favourable acceptance in the world ;
and it is with pride I acknowledge that 'my
moft fanguine expectations have not been
-difappointed . But ftill, my Lord, a wiflx
remained, that to the general patronage of
the public I might add that of fome emi
nent character, diftinguifhed not only by
birth and talents, but every private and
A. public

( « )
public virtue ; and I have been fo fortunate
as to have that wifh c ompletely gratified by
your Lordfhip's favour and protection. For
theperfonal kindnefs, my Lord, I have re
ceived from you, and the added importance
'which your name will flamp on this Work,
I beg leave to offer the warm effufions of a
grateful heart, and to fubfcribe myfelf
with the warmeft refpecSt,
My Lord,
Your Lordship's moft faithful
And obliged humble fervant,
jENEAS ANDERSON,
Lieutenant id Royal Manx
Feneibles.
Douglas, Ifle of Man,
Dec. at, 1795.

PREFACE

( "i )

PREFACE

TO THE ,

FIRS? EDITION,

jTIlN embaffy to China: was a new event in
the diplomatic hiftory of this country, and very
naturally excited a genera^ curiofity concern
ing it : for, without confidering the great com
mercial objects it had in view, the univerfal
ignorance which prevailed refpecting the inte
rior parts of that empire, and the confequent
novelty which mull be produced by any au
thentic hiftory of it, would irrefiftibly attract
the attention of our enlightened country, to
the only civilifed nation in the world, whofe
jealous, laws forbid the intrufion of any other
people. A 2 It

( i* )
It is not my defign to examine fhofe writers
who have preceded me on the fubject of China:
it is not for me to point out their contradic
tions, or difplay their fabulous interpolations —
my only bufinefs is to relate what I faw in the
courfe of this embaffy, in every part of which I
had the honour to attend Lord Macartney, who
was appointed to be the reprefentative of his
Britannic Majefty at the court of Pekin.
The difadvantages which oppreft the trade
of European countries with China are well
known, and to remove them in behalf of our
own, was an object well worthythe attentive wif-
dom of our government. It was not, however,
a mere fpeculative project ; as a Tufficicnt inti
mation had been made to the court of London,
that an Ambaffador from thence would be gra-
cioufly received by the Emperor of China :
minifters, therefore, ailed with a ftrict politi
cal attention, to the commercial interefts of
this country, by preparing an embaffy, fuited
-to the dignity of the court of Great Britain,
and fitted out in a manner to attract the atten
tion of the Chinefe people, as well as to com
mand

( v )
mand the refpect, and fecure the regard of the
Court of Pekin.
The Honourable Colonel Cathcart was, ac
cordingly, invefled in the year 1788, with the
important character of minifter from this
country to the Empire of China ; a man whofe
fuperior talents, amiable manners, fhrewd fa-
gacity, and- active perfeverance, qualified him,
in a' pre-eminent degree, to forward the im
portant objects of his miffion : but the pre
mature death of that able, excellent, and ac-
complifhed man, which happened on his voy
age, thwarted the progrefs of the embaffy he
was appointed to conduct ; and as no perfbn
had been named in the King's cbmmiffion, to
fucceed to his diplomatic office, if he fhould
not reach the place of his destination, that em
baffy died with him ; and may be faid to have
been buried on the diftant fhore where his
afhes repofe.
The wife attentions of government were not,
however^ to be turned afide from fuch an im
portant national object as a commercial alli
ance between the Courts of London and Pekin :
A 3 the

( vi )
the character of Ambaffador fo China was ac
cordingly revived, with additional fplendor, in
the perfon of Earl Macartney ; and an embaffy
was re-appointed in fuch a mariner as became
the empire it was to reprefent — and the em
pire before which it was to appear.
It is impoffible to fpeak in higher terms of
the anxious care and liberal attention of go
vernment to this diplomatic miffion than it
deferves. The fuperior talents which direct
the board of cqntroul, and the commercial
jpirit which animates the direction of the Eaft
India Company, combined to form thole ar
rangements which certainly deferved fuccefs,
if they did not obtain it. No narrow, or for
did views, mingled with the preparations of it :
the means of exterior figure, and the allure
ments of national productions in every branch
of art, fcience, and manufacture, were amply
fupplied; and though the embaffy has failed
in its objecT:, its failure cannot be attributed to
thofe who framed and fafhioned it in this
country, and fet it forward to its diftant def-
fination. havf

¦\

.( vii )
I have accurately related every circumftance
that came under my pbfervation, with many
occurrences which I hear from thofe, whofe
authority it would be impertinence, to fay no
worfe, in me to refill. , My defign is to attempt
no more than I am qualified to fulfil ; and this
volume will be more particularly found to con
tain a faithful account of the Britifti embaffy,
with its progrefs through China, from the time
that the Lion man of war, and the Hindoftan
Eaft-India Company's fhip, anchored before
Mettow, in the Yellow fea, to its arrival at
Canton. This Narrative is faithfully given
according to the beft of my abilities, and from
the moft accurate obfervations in my power to
make, during the journey of the embaffy by
land, or its voyages by water, or its temporary
refidence in Pekin and Tartary,
Others who poffefs a brilliant fancy, or a
glowing imagination, might enliven their de-
fcription of the fcenes through which this
volume will conduct the reader, with thofe
bright colours which we fee on the Chinefe
manufactures that are imported into this coun-
A 4 try,

( viii )
try, to decorate the apartments of elegant opu
lence: but my principal object is to give a
ftrong and accurate out-line of. the picture ;
and I would rather be accufed of the dulnefs
and tautology of truth, than rifque a fufpicion
that I had facrificed to a creative imagination.
Indeed in a journey, or a voyage, or by what
ever name it may be diftinguilhed, of upwards
of two thoufand miles, feme repetition muft be
expected and forgiven, not only from a fimili-
tude of objects, but from the impoffibility of
difplaying, by literal defcription, thofe diffe
rences between them, which, though evident to
the eye, cannot be transferred: to the page.
Cities, towns, and villages, mountains and
rocks, rivers, canals, and lakes, &c. &c. will
oftentimes admit of nothing more than general
denominations. The regularity, alfo, with
which the Britifh embaffy was conducted in it9
progrefs through China, will give an occalional
uniformity to the narration, that may fometimes
check the intereft which, I truft, it will be
generally found to excite ; but I beg leave to
gffure the reader that, if unfortunately he fhquld not

v ( i* )
not always be amufed by this work, he will
never be intentionally deceived ; and the praife
due to faithful reprefentation is all I have to
claim, and all I wifh to receive.
I have preceded the hiftory of the journey
through China with an account of the voyage
to it ; and have confequently mentioned places
which have already been defcribed by others,
and are to be fourtd in the volumes of modern
geography ; but I was advifed by thofe, on
whofe judgment I could very much rely, to give
this introductory part of it, according to my
own knowledge, and from the refult of my
own obfervation.
I have alfo added the journal of the Lion and
the Hindoftan from Chufan to Canton, as it
contains much curious and ufeful information
relative to the navigation of a long range of
the coafls of China not generally known, and
may be, therefore, important to the future voy
ager of the feas that walh them. The river of
Canton is fo well known, that I have com-
preffed my account of it into a very fmall
eompafs, The homeward-bound voyage, alfo,
which

( X )
which was accompanied with no circumftance
worthy of particular attention, is contained in a
few pages. To thefe I have added a fhort
gloffary of fuch Chinefe words and expreffions,
as I had myfelf acquired, and no more.
As to, the names of cities, villages, &c. I have
given the orthography according to their founds,'
and as I was inftructed by thofe natives, whofe
knowledge of the Englifh language was fuffi-.
cient to affift me.
I fhall offer no apology to my country for
publilhing the journal of a voyage, which had
excited fuch univerfal attention. If this volume
contains a faithful narrative of the public trans
actions of the late embaffy to China, with fuch
an account of the country and its inhabitants,
as the circumftances of it, and mode of travel
ling through it, would allow ; an apology muft
be confidered as inflating the public, to whom
the work is prefented : and, if it Ihould be
found to contain nothing that can intereft or
amufe the public, the book itfelf will be an
infult, and beyond the reach of apology, But,

( xi )
But I indulge myfelf in better expectations :
jaor am I without a flattering, hope, that this
volume contains information which will gratify
reafonable curiofity, and enlarge the knowledge
of a country fo little known to the other nations
of the globe.
^ENEAS ANDERSON.
^larjbam Street, Wefiminfltr^
Jjfiriiz, 1795,

PRE-

( xii )

PREFACE

TO THE

SECOND EDITION.

X HE rapidity with which a very large im-
preflion in quarto of this work has been fold,
determined me to publifh a new edition, in a
lefs expenfive form, that the gratification of
curiofity on a Subject fo full of novelty as an
embaffy to China may be more extended.
I have reafon to be vain of the fuccefs of my
Narrative, which has been honoured with an
ample Share of public approbation ; and ftill
maintains its character in fpite of the various
efforts of malice and mifreprefentation, both
againft the book and its author : — but while the
former remains free from any Specific charge
of falfhood or exaggeration, the latter may be
perfectly at eafe as to any attacks which an
interested refentment may make upon him.
I have only to add, that this edition differs
from the former in little more than a correction
of literal errors.
JE. A.
May 21, 1793. PREFACE

( xiii )

PREFACE TO THE
THIRD EDITION.

xWO large impreffions in quarto and
octavo of this Narrative having experienced a
very rapid fale, 1 am called upon to publish a
third edition : nor can I refrain from expreffing,
as I truft, a juftifiable Satisfaction in having
obtained a complete triumph over many illibe
ral but fruitlefs attempts to depreciate my work.
When the fpirit of rivalry exceeds the bounds
of liberality and of truth, it deferves the morti
fication which it feldom fails to experience ;
and my rivals, while they have taken every
opportunity to mifreprefent me, and have con-
defcended to implore, if not to purchafe, the fe-
verity of venal criticifm on my Narrative, have
not, however, been able to Shake its authenti
city, nor to lelfen the distinguished favour which
' 2 it

( xiv ) ,
it has received, and is ftill receiving, from the
patronage of the public.
But .while I exprefs my fenfe of the general
favour of my country at large, it would betray
a criminal infenfibility, if I did not avail myfelf
of this occafion to make my moft particular ac
knowledgments to the inhabitants of the Ifle of
Man, not only for a very large portion of per
sonal kindnefs, but for their zealous encourage
ment of this work, which I now make a record
of my regard and gratitude.

LIST

( xv )

LIST OF THE
GENTLEMEN
WHO COMPOSED THE RETINUE OF
EARL MACARTNET*

k3lR George Staunton, Bart. Secretary to the.
Embaffy ;
Lieut. Col.'Benfon, Commandant of the Am-
baffador's Guard ;
Lieut. H. W. PariSh, Of the Royal Artillery;
Lieut. J. Crewe ;
Mr. Achefon Maxwell, | Joint Secretaries to the
Mr. Edward Winder, J Ambaffador ;
Mr. Baring, Alfiftant Secretary, outward-bound 3
fon of Sir Francis Baring, Bart.
Dr. Gillan, Phyficiari and Philofopher to the
Embalfy ; Dr.

( xvi
Dr. Scott, Phyfician and Surgeon to the Em
baffy ;
Mn Barrow, Comptroller of the Houfehold ;
Dr. Dinwiddie, Mechanift, Conductor of ma
thematical and aftronomical prefents ;
Mafter George Staunton, fon of Sir George
Staunton, Bart.
Mr. Thomas Hickey, Portrait Painter ;
Mr. Alexander, Draftfman ;
Mr. Huttner, Preceptor to Mafter Staunton ;
Mr. Plumb, Interpreter.
Commiffioners fent by the Eaft India Company to Can
ton, to notify the intended. Embaffy of Earl Ma
cartney.
Meffrs. Jackfon, Irwine, and Brown.
His Excellency's Servants, &c. conjifted of
A Steward, and an under ditto,
i Valets de Chambre,
A Cook,
2, Couriers,
A Footman,
A Baker,
A Band of fix Mulicians,
A Carpenter and Joiner,
A Saddler,
A Gardener,
A Taylor, A Watch-

( xvii )
A Watchmaker,
A Mathematical Inftrurnent-maker,
Belonging to Sir G. Staunton ;
2 Servants, i Gardener;
which, with Mr. Crewe's Valet de Chambre,
formed the whole of the domeftic establishment,
except three natives of China, who went out
with us from England.
The Military EJlabliJJmient, or Guards, conjifted of
2,0 Men of the Royal Artillery;
10 Ditto 1 ith Light Dragoons ;
£0 Ditto drafted from the additional Companies
pf Infantry, at Chatham.
The Ships which were employed to take the Embaffy
to China, were
The Lion, of 64 guns, Sir Erafmus Gower,
Commander ; f
The Hindoftan Eaft Indiaman, Capt. William
Mackintosh, Commander; and
The Jackall brig for a tender, manned by of
ficers and men from the Lion,
Lift of the Officers on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
Sir Erafmus Gpwer, Knight," Commander ;
Mr. Campbell, ift Lieutenant ;
Mr. Whitman, 2d ditto ;
Mr. Atkins, 3d ditto ;
Mr. Cox, 4th cjittp- — died at Chufan 1
b Mp,

( xviii )
Lift of the Officers on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion.
Mr. Ommaney, acting Lieutenant ;
Mr. Jackfon, Mafter of the Lion ;
Mr. Saunders, Mafter's-mate ;
Mr. Tippett, ditto ;
Mr. Simes, ditto (difmilfed from the fhip-at
Batavia) ;
Mr. Lowe, ditto ; ,
Mr. Roper, ditto ;
Mr. Warren, ditto (fon of Dr. Warren, Phy
fician to his Majefty, and the Prince of
Wales) promoted to be acting Lieutenant ;
Mr. Kent ;
Mr. Chapman, (appointed Gunner, vice Corke,
deceafed.)
Midfhipmen.
Right Hon. Lord Mark Kerr, (fon of the Mar
quis Lothian), promoted to be acting Lieu
tenant,
Hon. Wm. Stuart, (fon of the Earl Bute),
Mr. Bromely,
Mr. Swinbourne,
Mr. Kelly,
Mr. Dilkes,
Mr. Trollope, .
Mr. Heywood,
Mr. Hickey,
Mr. Thompfon,

'( xix )
Lift of the Officers on Board hisMajeftfs Ship Lion.
Mr. Waller, (died at Wampoa),
Mr. Beaumont, (returned home ,from Angara
Point, for the recovery of his health),
Mr. Snipe,
Mr. Wools,
Mr. Montague,
Mr. Chambers,
Mr. Scott,
Mr. Bridgeman,
Mr. Perkins,
Mr. Sarradine.
Mr. Tothill, Purfer, (died at Cochin China) ;
Mr. Weft, Captain's Clerk ;
Mr. Nutt, Surgeon ;
Mr. Anderfon, Chief-mate ;
Mr. Cooper, 2d ditto ;
Mr. Thomas, 3d ditto ;
Mr. Humphries, Schoolmafter.

b 2 CONTENTS.

SE

CONTENTS.

CHAP. L
FROM England to Batavia, * page t
C H A P. II.
Ihejackall brig rejoins the Lion.— Lei ghton, the
carpenter, murdered by the Malays. — Lord Ma
cartney views the fpot where Col. Cathcart was
buried.~—Came to Pulo Condore ; fome account of
the inhabitants; their alarm. — Pajfed various
iflands.— -Arrived at Turon bay, in Cochin China.
— Several mandarins came on board the Lion ; an
account of them. — The chief minifter of the king
of Cochin China viftts Lord Macartney. — Prefehts
received. — Lord Macartney returns the viftt on
ftjore in form. — The -mafter of the Lion feized by
b 3 the

( XXli )
the natives, but releafed in a few days.- — The in
ter mer.t of Mr. lothil, the purfer of the Lion, p. 69
CHAP. III.
Leave Turon bay. — Sir George Staunton, &c. fail
in the Jackall for Macao. — Enter the Yellow Sea.
— Lieut. Campbell goes to Mettow. — Prefent
from the mandarin of Chufan._ — Number of ftck
on board the Lion. — Mejfrs. Huttner and Plumb
go to Mettow to arrange the landing of the em
baffy.— A mandarin arrives on board.— The fol-
diers, mechanics, andfuite, go on board the junks,
with the prefents, baggage, &c. — The Ambaffador
lands at Mettow. — Defer iption of that place, p. 84
CHAP IV,
An account of the mandarin appointed to conduct the-
accommodations for the embaffy.— Various prefents
of proviftons. — Grofs habits of the Chinefe re-
fpecling their food. — Defcripticn of the junks. —
Order of thofe veffels fitted up for the accommo
dation of the Britifh Ambaffador and hisfuite, ^.93
C H A P. V.
Lord Macartney leaves Mettow, and fets fail for
Pekin. — Beauty and fertility of the country. —
Various circumftances of the voyage. — The foldiers of

( xx»ii )
.of China defcribed. — The navigation- of the rtvit,
• — Some account of the tea-tree, with the ¦ manner
of making tea as a beverage. — Prodigious popu
lation of the country. — Arrive at the city of Tyen-
ftng. — Some, account of it. — A Chinefe play. —
Defcription of the mandarin's palace, &c. p. 102
CHAP. VI.
VioleM ftorm of thunder and lightning.— ^Prefents
diftributed among the fuite of the embaffy. — The
manner of towing the junks. — The ordinary meals
of the Chinefe and their mode of preparing them.
— Ihe increaftng appearance of the navigation. —
Strange habits of the lower clajfes of the natives.—"
Pa fed the town of Cho-tang-poa. — Circumftances
of the river. — Avifit from the mandarin oflyen-
ftng to the Ambaffador. — His proceffion defcribed
— The neatnefs, fertility, and various productions
of the fields on each fide of the river, p. 118
CHAP., VII.
Arrive at the city of Tong- tchew, where the voyage
, ends. — -The embaffy difembarks ; ceremonies on the
occafton. — The place appointed for the reception of
¦ the prefents and the baggage defcribed.— Defer iption
of the building appropriated for the refidence of the
Ambaffador and hisfuite. — The domeftic worfhip of
the Chinefe.— The entertainment of the embaffy. —
b 4 An

( xxiv }
Ait account of the city of Tong-tchav. — Gircum- >
fiances relative to its government. — The prefents
for th> Ei'.peror examined. — The artilUry ex-
tarifd. — Vifit from the mandarin. — The death of
Mr* Eades, and his funeral. — The Ambaffador re-
a ives nJ'tce of his departure for Pekin, p. 128
CHAP. V-HI.
Leave the city of Tong-tchew. — The road to Pekirt
defcribed* — Arrive at a large town called Kieng~
foo. — Halt there to breakfaft. — Prodigious crowds
of people to fee the embaffy pafs.— Arrive at Pekin ;
fome account of that city. — Cuftoms and manners of
the Chinefe. — Leave Pekin. — Arrive at the Impe
rial Palace named Yeumen-manyeumen, p. 146
C H A P. IX,
Defcription of the palace of leumen-matiyeumert. —
Difagreeable circumftances belonging to it. — Dif-
putes with the natives who ¦ guarded it. — Lord
Macartney applies for a change of fttuation. — The
embaffy removes to Pekin. — Defcription of a pd^
goda. — Arrive at the palace appointed for the re-
fidence of the embaffy. — Defcription of if. — The
arrangements made in it. — Several mandarins vifit
the Ambaffador, * jgs
1 CHAP.

( XXV )
CHAP. X.
Lord Macartney receives notice, that it is the Errl-,
perors pleafure to receive the embaffy at the im
perial reftdence in Tartary. — The perfons feletled
to attend the Ambaffador in his ppgrefs thither.
— The particular occupations affigned to thofe who
were left at Pekin. — Arrangements for the jour
ney into Tartary. — Leave Pekin; circumftances
of the journey, - - p. 181
CHAP. XI.
Arrive at the town of Waung-chauyeng. — Defcription
of Chine fe>foldiers, &c. — Pafs the great wall.- —
Defcription of it. — The different appearances of
Tartary and China. — Pafs an extraordinary moun
tain. — Arrive at the palace of Chaung-chaunuve ;
the circumftances of it. — Example of the induftry
of the peafants, and the cultivation of the country.
—Some account of the tenure by which lands are
held in China. — Arrive at the palace of Callachot-
tueng. — Defcription ~of it. — Arrangements fettled
for the manner in which the embaffy was to make
its entrance into Jehol, - - />. 193
CHAP. XII.
Arrive at the palace af Callachotrefhangfu. — Stop at
one qf the Emperor' s pagodas.— The public entry into

( xxvi )
into Jehol. — Defcription of the palace provided for
the Britifh embaffy. — A principal mandarin pays a
vifit of ceremony, to the Ambaffador. — Singular
conduct refpecling the provifions fupplied for the
¦ fuite. — the prefents unpacked and difplayed. — An
account of th&m, - - ^.205
CHAP. XIII.
The. prefents removed from the palace.- — A notification
received that the Emperor would give audience to
the Britifto Ambaffador. — Orders iffuedto the fuite
on the occafion. — The proceffion to the Imperial
palace defcribed. — The Ambaffador' s firfi audience.
of the Emperor. — Prefents received on the occafion.
— Ihe Ambaffador' '3 fecond vifit to the Emperor.
— Additional prefents. — Favourable opinions enter
tained of the fuccefs of the embaffy, p. 217
CHAP. XIV.
The Ambaffador vifited by mandarins on the part of
the Emperor, to invite him to court on the anni-'
verfary of his Imperial Majeftys birth -day. — Ihe
whole fuite attend, on the occafion. — The imperial
palace defcribed. — Some account of the Emperor.
— A fucceffion of prefents. — Bufinefs tranfabled
with the imperial court. — Particular prefent of
the Emperor of China to the King of Great Bri- ¦
tain.— Defcription of theatrical amufements. — A
Britiftj

' ( xxvii )
Bfitljh foldier tried by a court-martial, and
punifhed, ' - - p. 225
CHAP. XV.
Leave the city of Jehol. — Defcription of two rocks
in its neighbourhood... — Circumftances of the jour
ney. — Arrive at Pekin. — Arrangements made
there. — The remainder of the prefents prepared to
be fent to the Emperor. — Sicknefs prevails among
the foldier s. — The Ambaffador attends his Imperial
Majefty. — Brief account of his palace. — Further
arrangements refpetling the houfehold of the em
baffy. — Prefents to the Emperor and the Grand
Choulaa. — The Emperor goes to Yeumen-man-
yeumen to fee the prefents. — His per fon and^ drefs
particularly defcribed. — Prefents received from court
for their Britannic Majefties. — Circumftances con
cerning thofe which had been fent to the Emperor.
— Report prevails that the embaffy is to leave
Pekin, p. 248
CHAP. XVI.
Orders iffuedfor the fuite to prepare for an immediate
departure from Pekin. — The Emperor refufes to
allow of any delay. — Great confufion occafioned by
this fudden departure. — The embaffy leaves Pekin;
returns to Tong-tchew. — Order of the junks zvhich
4 are

( xxviii )
me to take the embaffy to Canton. — Difficulties
refpetling the baggage. — *Lhe junks enter a canal ;
defcription of it. — Circumftances of the voyage.—
View and cultivation of the country. — The Chinefe
poft defcribed. — Pafs through fever al large cities ;
a general account of them. - p. 266
CHAP. XVII.
Various circumftances of the voyage. — Enter the Tel-
low River.— Pafs feveral tozvns, lakes, &c. —
Ceremonies at the city of Kiangfou. — Enter a
beautiful lake ; defcription of it. — Enter another-
river ; circumftances of it. — Pafs feveral cities,
idc. — Dock yards for building junks. — Arrive at
the city of Mee-you-mee-awng ; beautiful country.
' — Further account of the Chinefe troops. — -A man- -¦
darin s palace and pagoda defcribed, p. 288
CHAP. XVIII.
The voyage continued. — Afucceffion of various objects.
— The elegant attentions of a mandarin to the
embaffy. — Captains of the junks punifijed for
embezzling the proviftons fupplied for the ufe of the
Ambaffddor and hisfuite. — Hufbandry of the Chi
nefe. — Preparations for fending the heavy baggage
belonging to the embaffy to Chufan-; feveral perfons of

( xxix )
of the fuite ordered to accompany it. — Arrive at
Hoang-tchew.—Capt. Mackiniojh", and the other
gentlemen, fet off for Chufan, - p. 303
CHAP. XIX.
The Ambaffador , with his fuite, proceed through the
city of Hoang-tchew to the Green river, where
they embark.-~Formalities on the occafion. — Cir
cumftances of the voyage.— ^Defcription of the
country. — Refpebtpaid to the Ambaffador.— Leave
the junks, and proceed by land. — Mode of con
veyance. — Embark in other junks. — The voyage
continued,* * * ^.312,
CHAP. XX.
The voyage- continued. — Curious circumftances of the
banks of the river. — The embaffy leaves the junks
fqr veffels of a larger fize. — Circumftances of the
yoy age. —~ Appearance of the country. — Prefents'
from the mandarin af Tyaung-J7:i-fenna,— Brief
account of tombs and fepulchres.— Pafs the tomb of
Saunt-y-tawn, and a clufter of three ci'ties.-rr- Ar
rive at Chinga-foo, -. p. 3
CHAP. XXI.
The voyage continued; various circumftances of it. —
Pafs^ the ruins of an ancient building. — Peculiar modes

( .xxx )
modes of fijhing in China.— Extraordinary cuftom
of employing birds in catching fifth. — Pafs feveral
cities, towns, l£c. — Arrive at Yoo-jenn-au ; its
beautiful fituation. — The junks anchor before
Kaung-jou-foo. — The reception of the Ambaffador,
P- 334-
CHAP. XXII.
The voyage continued. — Ihe manner in which the
Chinefe water their fields. — Sepulchres. — Change
in the appearance of the country.. — Leave the
river at the city of Naung-aum-foo to travel over
land. — Circumftances of the journey.— Arrive at
the city of Naung-chin-oa. — Some account of it. —
Ihe Ambaffador re-embarks to continue the voyage
down another river, - p. 345
CHAP. XXIII.
The fuite embarks on board the. junks ; the voyage
renewed ; circumftances of it. — A curious pagoda.
, — Defcription of fepulchres. — Vaft rafts of timber.
— Embark in larger junks. — Pafs fome curious
mountains ; a defcription of them. — Extraordinary
illumination, - - p. 356
CHAP. XXIV.
Ihe voyage continued. — Defcription of a curious
mountain.— Various circumftances of the river. —
Arrive

( xxxi )
Arrive at the city of Tuyng-yau-yean. — Pafs nu
merous villages, towns, &c. — Anchor before the
city of Ifyntian. — Arrive at Canton. — Formali
ties on the occafion, &c. - p. 366
CHAP. XXV.
Some account of Canton ; proceed from thence to
H'ampoa, and Macao ; brief account of them. —
Character of the mandarin Van-Tadge-In —
Circumftances relative to the reftdence of the embaffy
at Macao. — Sail for England, - ^.380
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
Brief account of the paffage, from Hoang-tchew tor
Chufan, by Captain Mackintqfti, &c. — Various
cuftoms of the Chinefe, iSc. — Mifcellaneous arti
cles, &c. , - - p. 398
Account of the tranfattions of the fquadrOn during the
ab fence of the embaffy, - p. 413
Gloffary of Chinefe Words, - p. 452

A NAR-

NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE

TO AND FROM

CHINA ®c. &c.

CHAP. I.

From England to Batavia.
JjLVERY neceffary arrangement having been 1792.
made, the Right Hon. Earl Macartney, with 7~^
his whole fuite, went, from the Point at Portf- Sept- 2U
mouth, in feveral barges, on board the Lion
man of war, then lying at Spithead.
Hoifted in the launch — fired the Signal gun Sunday 23.
for all the officers and men on Shore to repair on
board. At eleven A. M. a fignal was made for the Tuefday 25.
Hindoftan and Jack all to weigh : the Alfred
and Orion of feventy-four guns weighed at the
fame time ; and, at five o'clock in the after
noon, we took our final departure from Spit-
head. ,
B We

( a )
t>9*. We got into Torbay, where we found the
stater. Hannibal and Niger men of war. Sir George
Saturday 29. ancj jyjr< Staunton, with Dr. Gillan, went
afhore, and penetrated into the country as far
as Exeter; from whence they returned the next
day.
Sunday 3a. A leak was repaired that had fprung in the
fide of the Lion.
oftoter. We made land at an early hour of this
day 10.* morning ; and at eight faw the Deferter's
Island at the diftance of about four leagues ;
and the ifland of Porto Santo at the diftance
of about three leagues. Thefe islands are
fubject to the crown of Portugal, and form a
part of the Madeiras : the latter of them is
chiefly appropriated as a place of exile for
thofe who commit any petty depredations on
the ifland of Madeira. It is about fifteen miles
in circumference, and very mountainous : it
contains no harbours ; but has a large bay
wherein Ships may be tolerably fecure, except
when the wind blows from the fouth-weft : it
is frequented by Indiamen outward and home
ward bound. The island produces corn, but
in no great quantity ; it has alfo paflurage for
cattle ; and its thickets furnifh Shelter for wild
boars. The inhabitants are few in num
ber, and fubject , to the government of Ma
deira. The Defert, or Deferter's, Island, is an
inconfiderable barren rock, and ferves alfo as a
prifon

( 3 )
prifon for criminals, who are there obliged to 1794.
pay the penance of their offences by various oft&b«.
kinds of labour.
We arrived in Funchal Bay, in the island of Thurf^
Madeira, and anchored in forty-four fathom
water ; the town of Funchal being to the
N. N. E. about d mile.
After breakfaft, Lieuteriant Campbell was Friday ts>
ferit on Shore to the governor of the Madeiras,
to notify the arrival of Lord Macartney : On
the return of that officer, the Lion faluted
the garrifon with thirteen guns, and the com
pliment was immediately returned. The Bri
tish Conful then Came on board, attended by
feveral English gentlemen, among whom were
the moft refpectable merchants of the place, to
pay their refpects to the Ambaffador, and to
invite him alhore.
His Lordfhip having accepted of the invita
tion, the Ship's Company were ordered to get
themfelves clean dfeffed in white jackets and
trowfers as preparatory for manning the yards :
and, as I publish this Narrative, not merely "
for the ufe of.feamen, but for the entertain
ment, and, as I hope, for the information of '
thofe who know nothing of maritime life, I
fhall endeavour to explain what is understood
by manning the yards ; a ceremonial never ob-
ferved but on particular occasions, as well as in
honour of distinguished characters, and has
B a not

( 4 )
not only a very peculiar, but, in fome degree,
a very beautiful effect. The Ship's company
being all equipped in their beft cloathing, the
failors Stand upright on the yard-arms, as
clofe to each other as the Situation will admit,
with their hands claSped together, and their
arms extended ; ropes being drawn acrofs to
prevent them from falling. In this curious man
ner the whole yards of the Ship are filled with
men up to the main-top-gallant royal. In this
pofition the Ship's company remained, till Lord
Macartney had landed on the island.
On this occafion the matroffes were drawn
up under arms on the larboard fide of the quar
ter-deck, and the marines on the Starboard
fide, lining both fides of the deck, as far as
the accommodation ladder. The troops faluted
his Lordfhip as he paffed from the cabin, and
the band of mufic continued playing till he had
left the Ship. Lord Macartney and Sir Eraf
mus Gower proceeded in one barge, and the
gentlemen of the fuite followed in another.
The Lion then fired a falute of fifteen guns,
which was anfwered by an equal difcharge of
artilleiy from the fort on Shore. On this occa
fion every mark of mutual refpect was paid,
while the Governor of Madeira, with' the
British Conful and the principal inhabitants,
were ready at the landing-place to welcome
the Ambaffador on his arrival at the island. I went

( 5 )
I went on Shore this morning after breakfaft, 1792.
with feveral of the midfhipmen, and landed at oa^~T
Brazen-head rock. Oppofite to this landing SatUraayi 3-
place Stands a rock called the Loo, in which
there is a pretty Strong fort, furrounded with a
rampart, mounted with feveral pieces* of can
non, and garrifoned with foldiers. This rock
is in the form of a pillar, being very high, per
pendicular on all fides, and commands the bay *.
the only entrance to the fort is by a narrow
flight of Steps hewn out of the rock, and pro
perly guarded. It is Situated about three quar
ters of a mile from the Shore, and in water of
near forty fathom, fo that there can be no com
munication with the land but by means of
boats. The landing-place of the island is to
the north-weft of the Loo rock, and, from the
depth of the fea, which, at the water's edge,
is fifteen fathom, the violence of the furf and
a rocky Shore, is extremely dangerous. Steps
are formed in the rock to afcend to the top of
it,' which communicate with the road to Fun
chal, the principal town of the ifland.
This road is very rough and narrow, being
no more than four feet and a half in breadth,
with a low wall on either fide. It firft leads to
an high afcent, on each fide of which are a
few unenviable dwellings of the lower clafs of
inhabitants. On „ the fucceeding declivity is a
B 3 Small

( 6 )
fmall church, in the front of which there is an
altar and a, crofs, fuppofed to poffefs fome
healing powers of peculiar efficacy, as we faw
feveral poor wretches afflicted with various dif-
eafes, lying naked there, and expofing their
bodies covered with fores and blotches. The
church has fo little the appearance of any thing
like a place dedicated to the worfhip of God,
that, till I perceived the crofs, which was its
distinguishing decoration, it appeared to me to
be a barn or Stable ; at the fame time 1 was in
formed that the infide of it was very properly
fitted up and furnished for the facred purpofe >
to which it is dedicated. Its Situation is beau-
tifil beyond defcription : it Stands in a very
elevated pofltion, commands a very grand and
extenfive view of the fea, with Porto Santo.
and the Deferter's Ifland ; overlooking, at the
fame time, the charming vineyards in its own
immediate vicinity. Many delightful gardens
are feen on either fide of the road, abounding
in delicious fruits ; and, to the north of it, the
vineyards Stretch away to the extremity of the
rock, which poffeSTes a perpendicular height of
feveral hundred feet above the fea.
About half a mile beyond the church is the
entrance into the town of Funchal, through a
gate : from thence a mean, 'dirty,' narrow Street
leads to a public walk difpofed in the form of a
garden,

( 7 )
which has a principal alley or avenue in the
center, with orange and other trees _on either
fide of it, and lamps placed between them :
the whole is terminated by the cathedral church,
a large Gothic building, which is fitted up in
a very fuitable manner for the purpofes of that
religion to which it is confecrated.
I went after breakfaft to the houfe of the Monday 15.
British Cbnful, which is in the vicinity of
the cathedral ; and faw Lord Macartney, at
tended by his whole fuite, likewife accompanied
by the Hon. Mr. Weft, brother to the Earl of De
Lawarr, dreffed in the uniform of the embaffy,
walk in proceffion to vifit the Governor of the
ifland ; who received the Ambaffador with
every mark of attention and refpect; and re
quested his company to dinner on the fucceed-
ing day. His LordShip then returned to the
Conful's in the fame order and formality. '
As in the afternoon of this day I completed
my view of this place, I Shall here finifh my
account of it.
Madeira is extremely mountainous, and pre
fents a moft beautiful object from the bay. It
lies between thirty-two and thirty-three degrees
of north latitude, and between eighteen and
nineteen degrees of weft longitude from Lon
don. Its length is Seventy-five miles, and its
breadth thirty. In the center of the Southern
B 4 fide

( 8 )
fide of the ifland, at a fmall diftance from the
fea, and on the firft rife of an amphitheatre of
hills, is the town of Funchal. The population
of this place is very considerable, and it con
tains feveral churches, as well as monafteries of
both fexes, of the different orders of the church
of Rome : the houfes are built of ftone, and
the greater part of them are covered with
white plafter, and generally roofed with tiles :
the Streets are very narrow, ill paved, and dirty,
having no foot-path for paffengers, with all the
inconvenience arifing from unequal ground and
continual declivity. Except in the residences
of the Governor, and the Britifh Conful, and
the houfes of fome principal merchants, glafs is
'an article of very rare ufe. The houfes are, in
general, about three Stories high, with lattice
windows, and balconies in the front, where
the female inhabitants are continually feen to
amufe themfclves in obferving what happens in
the Streets, or conversing with thofe who are
paffing along. There are neither courts,
fquares, or principal Streets in this town ; the
whole place composing a fcene of architec
tural deformity. The cuftom-houfe, which is
on the fea fide, is furrounded by a rampart
mounted with cannon, and contains barracks
for foldiers.
The town is about three miles in length, and one

( 9 )
one in breadth. Its inhabitants confift of Por-
tuguefe, mulattoes, negroes, and a few Eng
lish, who refide there, for the purpofe of com
merce. The wrine of this ifland, fq well known
for its cordial and peculiar qualities, is the great
object of its trade, and the principal fource of
its riches. The drefs of the poorer fort of peo
ple is a kind of cap, made of cloth, which they
wear inftead of a hat, a Short jacket, and
clumSy trowfers, with a kind of boots of coarfe
undreffed leather ; though many of the lower
clafs are feen almoft naked, and manifest no
common appearance of diftrefs and mifery. The
religion is catholic, and the clergy poSfefs the
fame power as in the mother country. The
natives are of a very courteous difpofition, and
treat Strangers with all the punctilios of polite-
nefs and refpect.
." No carriages are kept in this ifland, but by
the Governor and the BritiSh Conful : the Sub
stitute for them, among the higher order of the
inhabitants, is a very fine filk net, of various
colours, capable of containing a perfon to fit in
it : it is borne by two men, by means of a long
pole run through the four corners, which draws
the net clofe on each fide like a purfe ; a Silk
curtain is then thrown over the pole, that en
tirely obfures the perfon who fits in this curi
ous vehicle, which is the elegant mode of con-
• veyance

( I* )
1 792. veyance in vifits of ceremony, and to the occa-
Oftaber. Sional entertainments of the place. Thefe, how
ever, are always in private houfes, as there are
no theatres, or any places of public entertain
ment, except the public garden, where there
are frequent exhibtions of the moft brilliant
fire-works. There are very few horfes in this ifland ;
mules and oxen being principally employed
both for draught and burden : nor is it eafy to
conceive the fagacity and agility of thefe ani
mals in adapting their powers to the inequali
ties of this very mountainous country.
The military establishment of the Madeiras
is very limited, and does not confift of more
than three hundred men. The native militia,
bowever, are numerous, but they are never
embodied, except in time of danger and alarm.
Thefe foldiers are moft wretchedly cloathed ; the
regimental confifting of a very coarfe blue jac
ket, with a veft and breeches of the fame colour;
the whole bound with a coarfe yellow worfted
lace, and enlivened with a red facing. They
wear on their heads a kind of leathern helmet ;
but the artillery foldiers are distinguished by
hats : their arms and accoutrements are of the
vvorft kind, and kept in the worft order : in
Short, fuch was their appearance, that when
fome of our matroffes and light horfemen were
permitted

( II )
permitted to go on Shore, the inhabitants, from
the fuperiority of their appearance, could not
be perfuaded but that they were officers in the
Britifh fervice.
The town is defended towards the fea, from
eaft to weft, by a Strong wall, mounted with
cannon, and a fort at either end. The climate
jof Madeira is well known for its falubrious in
fluence, as, excepting the month of January,
when there are frequent rains, accompanied
with violent thunder, it feldom undergoes any
change of feafon. Thofe who have money may
purchafe here, as in other places, all the luxu
ries of life ; but they in general bear a very
extravagant price, though the flrft people live
in a Stile of great plenty and elegance. Even
the wine, which, as it is the produce of the
fpot, might naturally be fuppofed to be purcha-
fed at a reafonable rate, could not be obtained
by us for lefs than four Shillings a bottle. This
ifland, however, notwithstanding its mounr
tainous State, muft be considered, altogether,
as a very fertile colony; and, as a picturefque
object, nothing can exceed the romantic and
beautiful views it contains, and the delightful
fpots that are covered with gardens and vine-*
yards. Lord Macartney, with the principal people Tuefday 16,
#f the ifland, were very handfomely entertained by.

Wcdnef-

v ( " )
by the BritiSh Cohful, at dinner j and, in the
evening, Mr. Scott, an Englifh merchant, gave
a ball and fupper, in honour of his Lordfhip,,
which wanted nothing, in point of elegant
hofpitality, that our country can afford. The
English fervants alfo partook of the attention
paid to their Lord, and were entertained with
the greateft plenty, and in the moft agreeable
manner, beneath the fame roof.
XyT> We this morning paid a vifit to a convent
of ladies, about three miles to the eaft of Fun-
chaL It is a very handSome building, Situated
near the fummit of an hill, and in the midft of
vineyards, commanding a moft beautiful, vari
ous, and extenfive profpect ; comprehending
the adjacent country covered with gardens, the
town of Funchal, and an expanfive view of the
ocean. — Here the nuns are permitted to con-
verfe very freely with Strangers, whom they
compliment with toys, and other articles of
their own manufacture. I faw among them
feveral very pretty women ; who, as far as I
could judge by their manners, feemed to regret
the lofs of that fociety for which they were
formed, and to Sigh after a communication with
the world, which they were qualified to adorn.
Having taken a particular view of this
charming fpot, we proceeded to the country resi
dence of the Governor, where Lord Macart-"
t , ney

( i3 )
aney and his fuite had been invited to dinner.
This entertainment confifted of three very Splen
did courfes of fifty difhes : and at a certain part
of it, Lord Macartney propofed to drink the ,
health of the King and the Royal Family of
England; which being notified by a fignal, the
Lion, at that, iriftant, fired a royal falute of
twenty-one guns ; and was immediately anfwered
by the fame number of guns from the fort. The
Governor then obferved the fame ceremony re-
fpecting the Royal Family of Portugal, which
was followed by the Same falutes from the
Portuguefe battery and Englifh men of war.
A very fine difplay of fire-works concluded
the entertainment, which did equal honour to
the distinguished perfons who gave and re
ceived it.
We returned on board, where we found Thurf-
. , day 1 8'.
feveral friars, whofe curiofity had led them to
take a view of the Ship ; where they were re
ceived with a kindnefs and hofpitality which
called forth the moft grateful expreffions ; and
obtained from them, all they had to give, their
repeated benedictions.
The entire forenoon of this day was employed
in making prepartions for a breakfaft in the
ward-room, to which Lord Macartney had in
vited] the Governor of the ifland, the British
Conful, and the principal inhabitants. This
enter-

( H )
*792' entertainment confilted of tea, coffee, and
oaoBcr. chocolate ; cold meats of all kinds, with fruits^
jellies, and variety of wines : the whole being
decorated with ornamental confectionary*
About noon Lord Macarhey returned on board
the Lion, with, the ufual formalities, and was
foon followed by the Governor, with his at
tendants, in very elegant barges. The bilhop
of Funchal accompanied him on the occafiOn;
The BritiSh Conful arrived foon after them*
The company then partook of the repair^ dur
ing which the healths of the royal families of
England and Portugal were drank with be
coming ceremony ; and, having taken a view
of the Ship, they returned on Shore. In the
evening we weighed anchor, and quitted" Ma
deira.
satur» At five in the afternoon we faw the extreme
«I»y 20. points of Teneriffe ; at midnight we faw the
eaft point of that ifland ; and, early in the
morning, Stood in for land.
Sunday 21. We anchored in twenty-two fathom water
in Santa Cruz bay ; where we found a French
frigate, who had called here on her homeward
bound paffage from the Weft-Indies ; but, in
confequence of the revolution in France, She
was detained till the pleafure of his Catholic
Majefty Should be known, respecting the part
he intended to take with the confederated powers,

( 15 )
powers, then at war with the national aflembly.
The Governor being then at the Grand Canary
ifland, and the Commandant informing Lieu
tenant Campbell that there was not a fufficient
quantity of powder in the magazine to admit
of a falute, that ceremonial was waved on the
prefent occafion.
The ifland of Teneriffe is one of the Canary
iflands, and fubject to the King of Spain. It
lies between twenty-eight and twenty-nine de
grees north latitude, and between Seventeen and
eighteen degrees weft longitude. It is about
fifty miles in length, twenty-five in breadth,
and one hundred and fifty in circumference.
Though it is the fecond in point of precedence,
it is the moft considerable with relpect to ex
tent, riches, and commerce. The principal
place in this ifland is the city of Laguna, and is
the refidence of the Governor ; but as we did
not vifit it, I Shall confine myfelf to the de
fcription of Santa Cruz, before which She lay at
anchor. This town lies on the north-eaft fide of the
ifland, and has an haven for Shipping ; the beft
anchorage not being more than half a mile
firom Shore, and very deep, with a rocky bot
tom. The Shore is bold and Sleep, with the
peak, which renders this ifland fo famous, ri
sing beyond it to the clouds. £>anta

( 16 )
Santa Cruz is about three quarters of a mile
in length, and half a mile in breadth : the
houfes are ftrongly built of ftone, and in the
fame faShion as thofe of Madeira. It has feve
ral neat churches, two of which being decorated
with large, fquare, and lofty towers, add much
to the effect of the town from the bay. There
is one pretty good Street, and not inconve
niently paved ; but the reft anfwer to no other
character than that of dirty lanes. There are
two forts at the eaftern and weftern end of
the town which command the bay. There are
but few troops in this or any of its Sifter islands,
and they are equally deficient in cloathing,
equipment, and difcipline. The militia is nu
merous, but never embodied, or called forth,
except on very particular emergencies. The
town, though by no means large, is very po
pulous : the inhabitants - are chiefly Spanish,
and fuffer all the difadvantages that arife from
the proverbial pride and indolence of their
character : for, notwithstanding the abundant
fertility of this ifland,. which yields the greateft
plenty to the fmalleft exertions, the general
appearance of the people betrays their poverty
and wretchednefs. There is another fort to the
weft of Santa Cruz, on a very elevated point,
which appears to be built with great ftrength,
and commands a part -of the bay.
The

( 11 )
The climate of this ifland is warm, arid, like 1792.
that of Madeira, not fubject to change. Dur- q^^
ing our Stay here, the thermometer flood in the
fhade, from feventy to eighty degrees, varying a
little, on board the Ship. The Governor refides
chiefly at the ifland diftinguilhed by the name
of the Grand Canary, about twelve or fifteen
leagues diftant from Teneriffe.
Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with the Doc- wedntf.
b • day 24.
tors Gillan^ Dinwiddle, and Not, Meffieurs.
Maxwell, Barrow, and Alexander, together
with Colonel Benfon, having formed a plan to
vifit the peak; they fet out at eight o'clock in
the morning of, this day from the hotel at
Santa Cruz, with every proper aid and provi
sion to carry the defign into execution. The -
thermometer then flood at feventy-teveii de
grees. They proceeded on mules, and under
the directions of guides hired for the purpofe,
with little or no interruption, till they had ad
vanced about eight miles up the mountain,
when the air became fo cold, that every one
was glad to make fome addition to his cloath-
ing ; at the fame time the thermometer had
fallen upwards of twenty degrees. Here the
party added fome very necefTary refreshment
to the change in their drefs, and then proceeded
on their journey till they arrived at the foot of
the peak, which was entirely covered with
C fnow.

( i8 )
179V. fnpw, fix feet in depth : but difficulties every
!rr*r**' moment occurred to impede their progrefs ;
Sir George Staunton had been thrown from his
mule at a moment of great danger ; the animal
on which Doctor Gillan rode, had fallen with
him, and it was at length determined, from.
the awful appearance of the journey before
them, the exhausted condition of the party, and
the late hour of the evening, to pafs the night
on the mountain. A kind of rude pavilion,
therefore, was formed by a fail, which, being
lined with cloaks, and great coats, foon pro
duced a comfortable apartment. A fire was
then kindled near the tent ; and after taking
an hafty fupper, every one laid himfelf down
lo repofe.
Thurf- At fix o'clock in the morning, the arduous
journey was renewed ; the thermometer being
at that time considerably below the freezing
point — but, after infinite fatigue and consider
able hazard, it proved fruitlefs as to its princi
pal object; and about three o'clock in the
afternoon, the different gentlemen of the party,
who had taken different ways to afcend the
peak, were, at length, happily re-affembled at
the place where the mules had been Stationed.
It was, however, neceSfary, as the diftance
from Santa Cruz was at leaft eleven or twelve
miles, to pafs the night of this day, as we had
paffed

( 19 )
paffed the preceding one. On the following 1792.
morning the party returned to Santa Cruz, after o&£r.
a moft fatiguing expedition of two days and two
nights, in which curiofity, at leaft, had re
ceived considerable gratification.
The peak of Teneriffe is one of the higheft
mountains in the world, and may be feen at
the diftance of an hundred miles. It rifes in
the center of the ifland, and takes its afcent
from Santa Cruz and Oratavia, another princi
pal town of this ifland, in an oblique direction
for near twenty miles ; being furrounded by a
great number of inferior mountains. The
lower parts towards Santa Cruz are covered
with woods and vineyards ; its; middle is clad in
fnow, and the top difembogues flames from a
volcano, which the natives call the Devil's
Cauldron. In travelling to the peak, the beft
way is on the fide of -Oratavia, both as to the
convenience of afcent, and the confequent di
minution' of danger. In fome parts of the
mountain there are hot, burning fands ; in
other places there are fnow ; and to that fucceeds
a Strong fulphurous vapour. Though the top
of the peak, from its great height, appears to
finish in a point, it contains a flat furface of at
leaft an acre of ground. We experienced three
diftinct changes of climate in the courfe of our
journey. In the firft ftage of it the air is
C 2 warm,

( so )
J792. warm, to that fucceeds intenfe cold, which k'
October, followed by a volcanic heat. The bottom Is
' continual fertility, the middle is fnow and froft,
and the top is fmoke and flames : the whole pro
ducing the fucceSfive effects of a garden, an
ice-houfe^ and a furnace.
Friday 26. Soon after our return to Santa Cruz, a fignal
was given for our going on board, which was
obeyed with all poffible expedition. On our
return to the Ship, we found feveral young
ladies, inhabitants of the ifland, who, having
been educated in England, were naturally in
duced to vifit a Ship belonging to a country to
which they expreffed the warmeft acknow
ledgments. They were received with great
politenefs by Lord Macartney ; and the band t
jof mufic was ordered to play during the whole
of their very agreeable vifit.
The French frigate, which we have already
mentioned as detained here, was, this day, re-
leafed from its embargo, and fet Sail from the
island. About eleven o'clock at night the wirid ble\fr
a Very frefh gale, and the Hindoftan drifted fo
faft towards the Shore, that it was thought
prudent to let go , her Sheet anchor. But this
precaution was not fufficient to prevent the
danger from becoming fo imminent, that Cap
tain Mackintosh fired a gun for affiftauce from the

( u )
the Lion ; when Sir Erafmus Gower immedi- 179a,
ately ordered off three boats, by whofe exer- o*Zr,
tjons the Hindoftan was difengaged from her
unpleafant fltuation ; when She immediately
put to fea,, after having loft her anchors, from
the rubbing pf the cables againft the rocky
bottom. At one in the morning we weighed anchor, Saturday 2 *,
and took our leave of Santa Cruz.
At three in the afternoon we faw Mayo, one November,
' Friday 2.
of the Cape de Verd iflands, bearing W. S. W.
at the .distance of four or five leagues. We
hove to, and hoifted out the launch. At
feven, we Spoke to a Ship from Topfham, in
Devonshire, which had been out thirty-two
days. At eight in the evening, Saint Jagp, a
town of the ifland of that name, bore north,
half weft, feven miles ; and, at three quarters
after eleven, we came to in Port Praya bay,
The thermometer at noon Stood at eighty-two
degrees. A/ter the ufoal falutes, feveral boats were emT Saturday 3
ployed in watering. The Seine was. alfo hauled, -
and frefh fifh ferved to the Ship's company.
Lord Macartney went on Shore in a private MonJa
manner ; and, after a Short Stay, returned to
the Lion.
This day arrived three French and one Ame- tu
rican SouUi-fca whale fifherrnen. A canoe
C 3 came,

( ™ )
i792> came along-fide the Lion, with grapes, cocoa-
November. nuts, and other fruits, for fale. This is the
only kind of boat ufed in thefe iflands, and
nothing could exceed, in the exterior appear
ance of wretch'ednefs, the owner of it. The
thermometer Stood, this day, on Shore, at
ninety degrees.
Wednef. Several of the men belonging to the corps of
artillery went on Shore to waSh and dry their
linen ; when they returned extremely fcorched,
and their legs covered with blotches, from
Standing in the burning fands. Having given
my linen to be wafhed by a man of Praya, and
being apprehenfive that I might Share the fate
of others, who had not found the natives of
the country perfectly correct in their returns,
I went in requeft of my wafherman ; when I
was obliged to be content, not only with pay
ing an exorbitant price for what he had done
very ill, but wjth the lofs of feveral articles
which he could not be perfuaded to reftore.
I, however, took this opportunity of viewing
the town of Praya ; in which there is very
little to excite curiofity, or encourage defcrip
tion. Saint Jago is the largeft of the Cape de Verd
iflands, which lie between twenty-three and
twenty-fix degrees of weft longitude, and be
tween fourteen and eighteen north latitude. It

( *3 )
It is very mountainous, and has much barren 11^'
land on it ; neverthelefs, it is the moft fruitful November.
and beft inhabited of them all — and is the resi
dence of the Viceroy, or Governor.
Praya is fituated on the eaft fide of the
ifland, and is built on the top of a flat hill,
about one hundred yards above the furface of
the bay ; having a miferable fort on the weft
ern Side, which, however, fuch as it is, com
mands the entrance into it. The only landing
place is oppofite the Governor's houfe, which
is fituated in a considerable valley, formed by
two large mountains. A very rugged and
afcending path, of about a quarter of a mile,
and taking an eafterly , direction, leads to an
arched gate-way, which forms the entrance to
the town ; a mean and miferable place, con
futing of nothing more than one wide Street,
about half a mile in length, formed of low
houfes built of ftone and mud, and Shaded with
trees. The furniture of fuch as we could look
into,, was perfectly fuited to the exterior ap
pearance; confifting of nothing more than
planks, which anfwered the double purpofe of
feats and tables, while the beds were as humble
as folitary Straw could make them. There is
but one Shop, and one public houfe in the
town ; and the former is. as deficient in point
of commodities, as the other is incapable of
C 4 convenient

( 24 )
i79*- convenient accommodation. The church, and
Nsvember. the Governor's houfe, partake of the general
appearance of the place. The natives are ne
groes, who fpeak the Portuguefe language, with
an intermixture of exiles, banifhed from the
Brazils and the Madeiras for capital offences.
There is one convent in the island, and the
whole is fubject to the fpiritual jurifdictiori of
a PopiSh biShop.
There appears to be great plenty of goats
here; but the fcorching heat of the climate,
and the confequent fcarcity of every kind of
herbage, is not calculated to give them a very
thriving appearance.
Praya has a good port, and is feldom without
Ships ; thofe outward bound to Guinea or the
Eaft Indies, from England, Holland, and
France, frequently touching here for water and
refreshments. While we were rambling about this mifer
able place, we heard the fignal to repair on
board ; and, hastening to the Shore, found a
boat waiting to receive us, and a crowd of the
naked inhabitants Standing there with their
fruits for fale. At noon We left Port Praya.
Sunday 18. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we found
ourfelves under the equator, where the bur-
lefque and ridiculous ceremonies frequently
allowed by the commanding officers of Ships were

( n )
were completely obferved, bypermiffion of Sir 1792,
Erafmus Gower, to the great entertainment of November
the Ship's company.
At five o'clock in the. afternoon, we came to December
Saturday !¦
anchor in the Rio Janeiro harbour, in fifteen
fathom water. Paffed by this afternoon into
the harbour the Hero of London, a South-fea
whaler, from the South feas, bound for Lon
don. A great many Ships were at this time at
anchor in the river, and, among the reft, was a
l?ortuguefe Eaft Indiaman, homeward bound ;
by whom it was intended to have fent letter^
to England, by way of Lifbon, had not the
arrival of the Hero afforded f more ready? as
well as more fecure conveyance.
The country offers from the river a moft de
lightful profpect, confifting of a fine range of
hills covered with wood ; whofe intervening
yallies are adorned with Stately villas, and pre-
fent a fcene of elegance, richnefs, and beauty.
The cutter was hoifted out, and the firft Su^fey*,
lieutenant dispatched on Shore, to acquaint the
Viceroy with the arrival of the Ambaffador,
and to demand the falute ; but as that officer
was at his country residence, the uSual forma
lities were neceffarily fufpended.
In the morning of this day, the deputy vice* Monday $
roy came, accompanied with guards and atten- '
dants, in elegant barges, to wait on Lord Ma
cartney .

( *6 >
cartney, to know his intentions, and to acquaint
him with the regulations to which all foreigner*
muft fubmit on landing at Rio Janeiro. But,
his Lordfhip having been for fome time afflicted
with the gout, and ftill remaining very much
indifpofed, Sir George Staunton and Sir Eraf
mus Gower received the deputy viceroy, who,.
after an introductory conference, partook of a
cold collation, and returned on Shore.
Tuefday4. The deputy viceroy, with his attendants,
paid a fecond vifit to the Ship, and accompa
nied the general meffage of congratulation from
the Viceroy to the Ambaffador, on his arrival
at the Brazils, with an invitation to accept of
an houfe for his residence, during the time he
might find it neceffary to Stay there. This
obliging proposition was accepted by Lord
Macartney ; and Sir George Staunton went oa
Shore to make the neceffary preparations forhis
reception, as foon as he Should be fufficiently
recovered to quit the Ship.
ThurHay 6. The Viceroy's fecretary, attended by feveral
gentlemen, came on board the Lion to inquire
when the Ambaffador would come on Shore ;
who was pleafed to appoint the following day
at one o'clock, to make his entrance into the
city of Rio Janeiro.
Friday 7. At noon, Sir Erafmus Gower having been on
Shore to notify to the "Viceroy that Lord Macart ney

.( »7 ) ,
ney was ready to land, he returned to the Lion 1792-
in order to conduct him ; and they foon arrived December.
with all the ceremonials fuited to the oecafion.
The landing-place, which is immediately op
pofite to the Viceroy's palace, was lined on
each fide by a regiment of horfe, and the Vice
roy's body-guards. -The Viceroy himfelf was
alfo there with his official attendants, and the
firft perfons of the city, to receive the Ambaf
fador, who was conducted along the line, and
distinguished by every military honour. The
ceremony had altogether a very grand appear
ance, and a prodigious crowd of people had
affembled to be fpectators of it. The company
then proceeded to the palace of the Viceroy, when
they paffed through a large hall lined with fol
diers under arms, and enlivened by the found
of martial mufic, to the State apartments. Here
they remained for fome time, wrhen Lord Ma
cartney and Sir George Staunton were con
ducted to the Viceroy's ftate coach ; Sir Eraf
mus Gower and Capt. Mackintosh were placed
in a fecond ; and the whole BritiSh fuite being
accommodated with carriages, the cavalcade
fet off, efcorted by a troop of light cavalry, to
the houfe appointed for Lord Macartney's re
ception, which is about two miles from the
city : the Ambaffador receiving, as he paffed,
every honour due to the high character with
4 which

( *8 )
179a. which he was invefted. A captain's guard,
•<p^far, appointed by the Viceroy, was alfo drawn up
in the front of the houfe, who received the
BritiSh visitors with colours flying, and mufic
playing, and every military distinction. Thus
concluded the ceremony of the Ambaffador's
reception at Rio Janeiro.
It would not only be tedious, but altogether
unneceffary, to mention the common daily oc-:
currences during our ftay at the Brazils ; I
Shall, therefore, confine myfelf altogether to
fuch circumftances, as from their novelty and
importance may intereft the mind, and reward,
in fome degree, the attention of the reader.
Monday 10. Lord Macartney, with his whole fuite, paid
a vifit of ceremony to the Viceroy, and was
received with every mark of attention and re-,
fpect. The gentlemen who attended on the
occafion afterwards dined with his LordShip,
and in the evening vifited the public garden
of the place. This garden is about half a mile
in length, and half that fpace. in breadth ; it is
furrounded by a Strong high wall, and guarded
at the entrance by a party of foldiers. The in-r
terior disposition cpnfifts of large grafs-plots
and gravel walks, agreeably Shaded with trees,
and perfumed with flowers. In tjie center is a
large bafon of water, and a great number of
lamps are placed between the trees, on each fide

( *9 )
•fide of the walks, for the purpofe of illumina- 1792;
tion. At . one end of the garden is a large £^£tieTt
building for balls and mufic ; but, as the fea-
fon of amufement at this place was paffed when
we were there, we muft be content with giving
a defcription of the fpot, without fpeaking of
the diversions to which, at certain feafons of
the year, it is applied, as wo doubt notj to the
recreation of the inhabitants.
All poffible preparation was made in the long Tuefday n.
gallery and great room of Lord Macartney's
houfe to receive the Viceroy, who had given
notice of his intention to return the Ambaffa-
dor's vifit in the morning of this day. At ten
o'clock, Sir Erafmus Gower, with the officers
from the Lion, dreffed in their beft uniforms,
as well as Capt. Mackintosh, with the officers
of the Hindoftan, came on Shore to attend the
ceremony. At eleven, the Viceroy's departure from his
palace was announced by a difcharge of artil
lery from the garrifon ; when the guard, ap
pointed by the Viceroy to attend the BritiSh
AmbaSfador, immediately paraded in front of
the houfe ; and, in about half ah hour, the
Viceroy arrived in grand proceffion, preceded
and followed by a fquadrori of horfe, and at
tended by all the principal officers and perfons
Of distinction in the city. His Excellency was
3 received

( 3° )
1792. received at the door of the home by Lord Ma-*
December, cartney, and conducted to a fofa at the uppef
end of the belt apartment. Sir George Staun^-
ton then presented all the gentlemen attached
to the embaffy, according to their respective
ranks, to the Viceroy ; who, after partaking of
a very elegant repaft prepared for him and his
company, returned in the Same form, and with
the fame ceremonies, as distinguished his ar—x
rival. The drefs of the Viceroy was of fcarlet cloth,
very much enriched with gold, embroidery,
and precious Stones ; his attendants wore a Splen
did livery of green and gold, and he had feveral
black running footmen, who were dreffed in
fancy uniforms, with large turbans on their
heads, and long fabres by their fides.
Wedrref- This morning, at an early hour, Sir George
and Mr. Staunton, accompanied by Mr. Bar
row and a Portuguefe gentleman, fet off on a
Short excurfion into the country. At the Same
time, I took an opportunity of vifiting the
place, of which I Shall now proceed to give'
fuch a defcription, as my capacity for obferva-
tion will enable me.
This city, which is by fome called Saint Se-
baftian, and by others, Rio Janeiro, Stands on
the weft fide of the harbour of the latter name,
in a low fituation, and almoft furrounded by
S , hills.

( 3* )
hills, which, by retarding thedrculation of the 179a.
air, renders the place very vrnfalutary to Euro- T^Stf!
pean constitutions. Its extent is very consider
able, .being, from eaft to weft, about four miles
in length, and, from north to fouth, about two
miles in breadth. The Streets, for there -are
no fquares, are very regular anduuiform, in
tersecting each other at right angles : they are
well paved, abound in Shops of every kind, and
are compofed of hou fes equally well built, and
adapted to the climate. In the center of the
city, and oppofite to the beach, Stands the pa
lace of the Viceroy : it is a large, long, and
narrow building, without any attraction from
its exterior appearance, but contains within a
fucceflion of Spacious and noble apartments. It
-contifts only of two ftories ; the lower one being
appropriated to the domeftics and menial offi
cers, and the upper range of building contain
ing the apartments of the Viceroy : it is built of
rough ftone, plaftered with lime, and covered
with pantiles. The Viceroy's chapel is a neat
edifice, near the palace, but detached from it.
The Streets are not only fpacious and conveni- _
ent, but remarkable for their cleanlinefs ; many
of them containing ranges of Shops and ware
houses that would do credit to the cities of Eu
rope. There is a cuftom here, which appears
to be worthy of imitation in all places of consi
derable

( 3i 1'
*79*. derable trade and commerce; — that all perfons1
Pecemben of the fameprofeSfion occupy the fame ftreet or"
district ; and a deviation from this rule is very1
rarely known in this city. Of the population
of this place;, I could not procure any accurate
information, but from its extent, and the ge
neral obfervations I Was enabled to make, it
may, I think, be considered, without exagge
ration, as amounting to two hundred thoufand
fouls. The people, who are Roman Catholics,
are very much attached to the ceremonials of
their religion, which they obferve with extreme
luperftitioni The churches are very numerous,
and fitted up with oftentatious finery. On the
festivals of their patrons thefe edifices are richly
adorned, and beautifully illuminated. Some
of them we faw lighted up with fo much Splen
dor, as to offer a very Striking Spectacle, and
to bear the appearance rather of a public re
joicings than a partial act of parochial devo
tion. Near the middle of the city, and on a
commanding eminence, there is a public ob-
fervatory furnifhed with an aflronomical appa
ratus. The inhabitants are very oftentatious in their
drefs; and every rank of people is in the habit
of considering fwords as effential to public ap
pearance ; even children are not considered as
exempt from this ornamental weapon. The
drefs

( 33 )
tlrefs of the ladies bears a near refemblance to
that of European women, except in the deco
ration of the head. Their hair is fmopthed
back in the front, and adorned with artificial
flowers, beads, and feathers, fantastically ar
ranged ; behind, it falls dpwn in a variety of
plaited treffes, intermixed with ribands of va
rious colours, each trefs terminating in a role
made of riband. They alfo wear a large man
tle of filk, hanging loofely behind in the form
of a train, which is borne by One fervant., while
another holds an umbrella to Shade the face of
his miftrefs from the fun. The females of
Brazil are generally Of a pale complexion, but
have a certain delicacy of feature which renders
them very pleating objects ; and the affability
of their manners heightens the'agreeablenefs of
their perfonal attractions.
The trade of this place is very considerable,
and the fource -of great wealth to the inha
bitants, as well as to the mother country. The
various articles which are exported from hence,
are the fame as thofe produced in other parts
of the Portuguefe fettlements in Brazil. The
wharfs are very large and peculiarly commo
dious ; and we were very much amufed on ob-
ferving the dexterity with which the Slaves
loaded and unloaded the barges that lay along
fide them. The rice, of which great quanti-
D ties

t79«.
December

( 34 )
1794' ties appeared to be exported from this fettle*
becsmber. ment, was all contained in undrcSffid bullock's
hides. At a fmall diftance from the city, on the weft
fide of it, is a large convent, but more remar
kable for ftrength than elegance. It is built
. round feveral quadrangular courts, paved with
large flat Stones, furrounded by piazzas, and
kept in a ftate of perfect cleanlinefs. It is di
vided into two parts, containing a great num
ber of apartments which are distinctly appro
priated to a religious community of either fex.
The perfons who compofed Lord Macart
ney's fuite were indulged with the permiffion to
vifit this convent, and the nuns took oppor
tunities to throw out to them a variety of little
elegant toys of their own fabric. Nor had even
their confined and devoted Situation prevented
them from knowing the art of manufacturing
another kind of article, called billets doux,
which they contrived to have conveyed to fome
of the Englilh visitors. They even applied sto
Lord Macartney, by the director of the convent,
for the ufe of his band of mufic, which accord
ingly performed at feveral morning concerts,
within thefe facrcd walls. There is alfo a very
fpacious garden, where the religious ladies ate
allowed to enjoy fuch recreation as they can
find in a place, furrounded with walls of at leaft
forty

( ss )
forty feet in height; which, as if they did not »79«-
form a fufficient fecurity, are constantly guarded DecemWr.
on the outfide by a party of foldiers.
On the north-weft Side bf the town there is a
( Stupendous aquedtict, which is an object of un
common curiofity. It is in the form of a bridgej
contains eighty arches, and in fome parts is$
at leaft, one hundred and fifty feet in height;
and is feeh, in feme points of view, with pecu
liar effect, rifing gradually above the loftieft
buildings of the city. This immenfe chain of
arches Stretches acrofs a valley, and unites the
hills that form it. The object for which it was
erected is completely anfwered, as it conveys
water from perennial fprings, at the diftance of
five miles, into the town, where, by means of
leaden pipes, it is conducted to a large and
elegant refervoir at the beach, oppofite to the
Viceroy's palace. This water is of the belt
quality* and is withal fo very abundant, as not
only to afford an adequate fupply for all the
wants of the inhabitants, but to furnifh the
Ships' that come into the harbour with, this
fteceffary element.
The military establishment at Rio Janeiro is
on a very refpectable footing. The foldiers are.
not only well cloathed and difciplined, but are
allowed fo enjoy all the privileges of citizens.
If feems to be a policy of the Portuguefe go-
D 2 vernment,

( 3* )
t79*. vernment, and a very wife one it is, to ifenp
December, der the Situation of the foldiery in their Ame
rican Settlements, not only comfortable in it-
felf, and refpectable in its character, but, in
fome degree, as I Should imagine, the fource of
pecuniary advantage. Thus the loyalty and
zeal of the foldiers are happily fecured in a
Situation fo important from its Value, and where
vigilance and fidelity, in thofe who guard it,
become more neceffary in proportion to its re-
motenefs from the mother country. Whether
it is that their pay is proportionably advanced
in the fervice of thefe fettlements, or that they
are allowed any distinct advantages, 1 cannot
tell ; but they certainly appear to be in a ftate
of comparative affluence, which no other fol
diery that I have either feeii or heard of can be
fuppofed to poffeis. The number of troops in
Rio Janeiro, including cavalry and infantry,
amount to twenty thoufand men ; and the mi
litia ai-e, at leaft, double that number. At the
fame time, the place is admirably fortified both
by art and nature. It is fituated about two miles
from the mouth of the bay, and is defended by
nine flrong forts, well fupplied with artillery,
and fufficient garrifon?. There are alfo two
fmall iflands in the middle of the bay, one at
the entrance, called Santa 'Cruz Fort, and
another at a Short distance, which ftill add to

(.37 )
to the ftrength of the Situation, and the diffi- 1792.
culty of attacking it with advantage. ' rT~w7J
. * ° . Or December.
Sir George Staunton fet off with a party on Saturday 15.
an excursion to the Sugar Loaf Hill, a very
high roek, fituated on the left Side of the en
trance to the harbour ; and at five o'clock in'
the afternoon, Lord Macartney, who was ftill
very much indifpofed, accompanied by Sir Eraf
mus Gower, returned, in a private manner, on
board the Lion.
All the baggage being put into carts to he
carried to the beach, the officers who com
manded the guard at the houfe where Lord
Macartney had refided, ordered a party of fol
diers to attend each cart, till the whole of their
cargoes was depofited on board the boats which
were in waiting to receive them. During my
attendance on this duty, I had ap opportunity
of feeing the Viceroy return in great State from
the church, where he had been to attend "fome
particular ceremonial of his religion.
At half paft ten in the morning we weighed
anchor, and worked down to Santa Cruz Fort,,.
and came to, fobn after, in. fifteen fathom water..
The next day we ran out of the harbour, and
took our leave of Rio Janeiro..
Nothing occurred for fome time, which re-.
quires particular notice ; not even that change
pf weather which would juftify a circum'ffan-
D3 M

{ 3* )
T"9*- tial account of it. The weather was, in ge-j
Le ember, neral, moderate light airs, frefh breezes, with
occasional hazinefs and drizly rain, which would
include every defcriptiori of it during the re
mainder of the year 1792. It may not, how
ever, be thought altogether improper in me tp
mention, that, though fo far removed from our
friends and native clime, with fuch a wafle of
water around us, and fo long a tract of ocean
Tuefday j 5. before us, the feftival of ChriSjmas-day was.
not forgotten, and that its focial distinctions
were practifed and enjoyed in the little world
that bore us along.
Monday 31. About ten in. the morning we faw the ifland
of Triftan de Cunha. It is barren, uninhabited,
and almofl an inacceflible ifland, fituated in the
heart of the Southern ocean, in thirty-feven
deg. feven min. and thirty fee. fouth latitude,
and about forty-five deg. eaft longitude. When ''
we firft obferved this mountain riling above the
clouds, it appeared to be as high as the peak of
Teneriffe. It is a natural place of refort to pro
digious numbers of wild birds ; while the fur-
rounding lea is the habitation of whales, fea-
lions, and other monfters of the deep. Lieu
tenant Whitman, who was fent on Shore in the
cutter, to found for anchorage, gave a very fa
vourable report of the beach, as well as of a
run of water which iffued from a cliff, and,
flowing

( 39 )
flowing acrofs the Shore, difeharged itfelf into
the fea.
Mr. Whitman, on this occafion^ Shot a fea-
lion and an albatrofs ; the latter of which he
brought on board. It meafured nine feet from
the bill fp the extremity of the tail, but weighed
no more than three pounds an an half.
In cpnfequence of this information, Sir Eraf-
ittUs~ Gower propofed to fend a watering party
on Shore the next morning 5 while Sir George
Staunton fuggefted an excursion thither at the
Same time, to fee what this ifland offered to his
obfervation in any brapch of natural hiftory.
For this purpofe, a certain number of artillery-s-
men were ordered to he in readinefs by three
o'clock in the morning, and to be properly
equipped for the expedition againft the amphi
bious iripnftefs of the Shore. At midnight, Tuefday- %.
however, a very heavy gale came on, which
caufed the Ship to Start her anchor, and our
fitiiation became very alarming ; for if the
Wind, which blew directly on the rack, had not
changed, we muft inevitably have periShed,
This unexpected alteration in the weather frus
trated the designs which had beep formed of
Obtaining further information relative to this
Curious place. •
The weather continued, to be moderate, with Sunday to,
}ightairs, and freSh breezes, till this day; when
D 4 there

Fiiday i.

(¦ 40 V ,
there came on an heavy gale of wind, which,>
occasioned fuch a rolling of the Ship, as to;
interfere with thofe enjoyments that make fea-
men forget the inconveniencies of their Situa
tion.
Tuefday 22. The moderate weather returned, with all the,
comforts that ufually attend it.
February. About four o'clock in the. morning faw land,
bearing E. N. E. fuppofed to be ten leagues.-
diflant ; which, in about four hours, was dif-
covered to be the ifland of Amsterdam, Situate
in the Indian ocean, and lying in latitude thirty
deg. forty-three min. fouth, and feventy-feven,
deg. twenty min, eaft longitude. As we. ap
proached the ifland, we could plainly difcover,
three men on the Shore : in confequence of
which the enfign was immediately hoifted.
We here faw a great number of water fnakes,
and a prqdigious quantity of filh refembbng
cod, and weighing, in general, from three to,
eight pounds. At noon the yawl was hoifled
out, and the mafter fent to found for anchorage.
In confequence of this information we hove to,
and anchored with the belt bower, in twenty-
eight fathom water, on the eaft Side of the.
ifland. The mafter alfo gave an account that
there were five men on the ifland, who had
come from the Ifle de France, for the purpofe
of killing Seals, with which this place abounds. Sir.

( -4l. )
Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with feveral 1793.
pther gentlemen, accompanied by a party of ar- FXu^ry
tillery foldiers, properly armed, went on Shore, Y^z?'
and made great deftruction among the natives of
the place ; fuch as feals, penguins, albatroffes,
&c. Great quantities of fifh were alfo caught
here, and falted, for the fervice of the Ship.
On the north-eaft end of the ifland, nearly
oppofite to where the Lion lay at anchor, there
is a very commodious bafon, about a mile in dia
meter, and furrounded by inacceflible and per
pendicular rocks ; at the entrance of which, on
the northrweft corner, Stands a lofty infulated
rock, which bears the form of a fugar-lpaf. This
bafon might, at a fmall expenfe, be made a place
pf Safe retreat for Ships pf any burthen; as it con
tains, in many parts, thirteen fathom water,
and poffeSfes an excellent landing place. We
here caught great quantities of fifh which refera
ble our lobfter, both in Shape and Size, but are
pf a very fuperior flavour. We alfo obferved
great numbers of Sharks all round the ifland ;
which is the more extraordinary, as the Shark
is feldom feen in thefe latitudes.
On our landing, we were met by the five
feal-hunters, whom we have already mention
ed ; who, with great civility, conducted us to
an hut. at a fmall diftance from the beach.
They were natives of France and America, who had

( 42 >
^93^ had made a commercial engagement to come
February, artd refide in this ifland for the fpace of
eighteen months, in order to kill feals> whofe
Skins are fold to very great advantage to Ships"
which touch at the Ifle Of France, At this
time they had only been fix months in' their'
prefent Situation, when, according to their ac
count, they had already killed eight thoufahd
feals. At a fmall diftance from their hut, thefe men
had, with much labour, and no fmall hazard^
formed a path, by whleh they contrived to get
over £ mountain to kill feals on the other fide
of the ifland. On afcending this path,, we
came to a Small Spring, whofe water is equal to
b6iling heat ; and fome fiSh which we put into
it, were as peitecily drefied in fix minutes, as
if they had been dreffed- on board the Ship,
It fhopld be alfo obferved, that while we were
attending on this procefs, we distinctly heart!
the: Same kind of bubbling found as proceeds;
from Water boiling in a veffel over the fire.
On the top of the mountain there is a volcano,
from whence a fubftance ISfues, which thefe
men represented as bearing the appearance, arid
poflefliiig the qualifies of falt-petre.
This ifland is about eight miles in length,'
and Six in breadth ; in fome parts it is alto
gether flat, particularly to the weft, and gra-
2 dually

( 43 )
dually rifes. to the very high land in the center 1793,
pf it. It is a very barren fpot, bearing neither p^Zl
tree nor fhrub, and whofe only produce is a
kind of coarfe, tufted grafs, with very thick
Stalks. Every thing in this ifland bears the
mark of having undergone the action of fire.
The earth, and even the rocks and ftones, on
approaching the volcano, were fo hot as tp
fcorch our Skin, to burn our Shoes, and blifter
pur feet. We were conducted about this defo-
Iate place by the five feal-hunters ; whofe care
and kind attentions , preferved us not only from
inconvenience, but danger, which it would have
been impoffible for us to have avoided, if we
had not been fubject- to their direction,
The volcanic mountain is about three miles
in its afcent, which is very Steep and rugged ;
and in its afcent, as well as defcent, attended
with, continual difficulties. In Short, We had
met with fo many obstacles both in going up
and coming down if, that two Signal guns had
been fired from the Lion, which, with the Hin
doftan, were both under weigh, when we reach
ed the Shore ; where, after an interval of no
common alarm and apprehension, we found a
boat that conveyed us on board. The night
being dark, we faw the flames of the volcano
burning forth in fix different places, -at a con
siderable

( 44 )
*793' fiderable diftance from each other, which form-
February, ed a grand and affecting Spectacle.
It may here be proper to remark, that the
thermometer, which, on board, flood at fifty-
five degrees, rofe on the ifland to fevehty-four;
and, towards the top of the mountain, tofeven-
ty-feven degrees and an half : a circumttance
which muft be attributed to the heat of the
volcano.
ft^y 15. This morning, at- three o'clock, a very large
meteor, or fire-ball, rofe from the north-north-
weft, and continued in view for fome minutes,
paffing off, without any explofion, to the fouth-
foufh-eaSt. It threw a kind of blue light over
the fails and deck ; but the illumination was fo,
ftrong, that the moft trifling object copld be
distinguished.
March 18. At eight o'clock in the morning we difeob
vered the Trial rocks, about a league to the,
windward ; the fea beating over them to an
immenfe height, Thefe rocks are not visible,
as they do not rife above the furface of the
water, nor are they much beneath it. They
are fituated in the Indian ocean, in about one
hundred and fix degrees of eaft longitude, and
twenty-five or twenty-fix degrees pf fouth la-.
titude.
¦mure- In proceeding up the Straits of Sunda we faw
the Hindoftan lying at anchor, near the north
iSland-.,

- ( 45 )
ifland. In the afternoon a Dutch prow came 1793.
along fide the Lion, laden with turtle, poultry, 'To^jT'
and fruit, for fale. The owner of the prow ™f'^~
was a Dutchman ;. but thofe that rowed it were
Malays, and fome of them females.
At three o'clock in the afternoon we came to
in Batavia road, in five fathom water: the
careening ifland bearing weft-north- weft. We
were faluted by all the English Ships in the
road, and one French veSfel, At fun rife we
faluted the Dutch garrifon with thirteen guns,
which were returned : at feven we returned the
falutes of all ,the Ships ; and at eight received
the members of the Dutch council with the
fame honours. Thofe gentlemen compofed a
deputation from the Governor-General of Ba
tavia, to invite Lord Macartney on Shore, and
to know on what day and hour he would be
pleafed to land. His LordShip, accordingly,
fixed on Friday, the 8th inft. at nine o'clock
in the morning, it being the anniverfary of the
birth-day of his Serene Highnefs the Prince of
Orange. At Six o'clock in the morning, a falute of Friday «.
twenty-one lower-deck guns was fired, in
honour of his Serene Highnefs : and, at the
time appointed, the Ambaffador, attended by
his whole fuite, went on Shore with the ufual
formalities. In

( 46 )
i79> In a Short time after Lord Macartney had
j^X quitted the Ship, a Dutch officer of distinction,
with feveral ladies and gentlemen, came on
board the Lion, fromBataVia, to take a view of
her. They were received with all poffible
pOlitenefs by Lieutenant Campbell, and ap->
peared to be much Satisfied with their reception.
A very fine young English lady Was one of the
party, and enhanced the honour of the vifit.
In the afternoon I went on Shore in the
launch, having charge of the baggage belong
ing to the fuite, which was, with fome difficulty^
rowed up the canal, and Safely landed before
the door of the royal Bataviart hotel, where the
packages were diftributed in the apartments of
the gentlemen to whom they respectively be
longed. The AmbaSfador, with Sir George
and Mr. Staunton, were received at the houfe
of Mr. Wiggerman, one of the members of the
fupreme council.
At fix o'clock Lord Macartney went in form
to an entertainment at the Governor-General's
country reftdence, at which the principal per-*
fons of both fexes in Batavia were prefent.
The whole concluded with a magnificent flip
per and ball, which lafted to a very late hour
of the following morning.
Sunday 10. While I was at breakfaft this morning, my
ears were affailed by the moft dreadful Shrieks I ever

March

{ 4? )
leyerheafd; and, on making the inquiry 1793"
which humanity fuggefted, I discovered that
thefe horrid founds proceeded from a Malay
Slave, whom the mafter pf the hotel had or
dered to be puniShed for fome pmifiion. of his
duty. This poor wretch, who was upwards of
feventy years of age, appeared Standing in a
back court, while two other Slaves were fcourg-
ing him in the moft unrelenting manner with
fmall canes. This horrid punishment they con
tinued for thirty-five minutes, till the back and
hips of this victim to feverity exhibited one la
cerated furface, from whence the blood trickled
dpwn on the pavement. The mafter then com
manded the correcting Slaves to give over their
-tormenting office, and fent the .Smarting cul
prit, as he was, and without any application
whatever to his wounds, to continue the labo
rious duties of his Station. On remon ft rating
with the mafter of -the hotel, for this cruel and
brarbarpus treatment of his Servant— he an
fwered, that the Malays were fo extremely
wicked, that neither the houfe, nor any one in
it, would be .Safe for a moment, if they were not
kept in a ftate of continued terror, by the moft
rigid and exemplary punifbment. .But this was
not all; for another act of neceffary feverity, as it
was reprefented to .me, though of. a different kind,

{ 48 j
1793. kind, immediately Succeeded. Two slaves, in*
^MTrdi^ carrying off the breakfaft equipage from our
table, Contrived between them to break a plate ;
for which offence, as it could not be precifely
fixed upon either, they were both ordered to
fuffer. They were, accordingly, each of them
furnifhed with canes, arid compelled to beat
each other ; which they did with reciprocal fe
verity ; as two other Slaves flood by with bam
boos, to correct any appearance of lenity in
them. Notwithstanding the extreme heat of the
weather, I was impatient to take a view of the
city ; and the refult of my obfervations I now
prefent to the reader. ,
The city of Batavia is fituated in the ifland of
Java, and is the capital of all the Dutch fet-
tlements and colonies in the Eaft Indies. It
lies in one hundred and four degrees of eaft lon
gitude, and fix degrees of fopth latitude ; and
from its Situation between the Equator and the
Tropic of Capricorn, the climate is infupport-
ably hot.
The city is built in a fquare form, and fur
rounded with a ftrong wall, about thirty feet
high. There are four gates, one in each angle,
with a fort, battery, and barracks for foldiers
at each gate. The forts are mounted with ar
tillery, garrifoned with troops, and furrounded with

( 49 >„
with ditches, over which draw-bridges are let
down during the day ; but after nine o'clock
at night there is no paflage over them without
a Signed order from the Governor-General.
The Streets of the city are broad, handfomely
built, and well paved ; and in the center of
every principal Street, there is a canal of about
Sixty feet broad ; fo that there is no communi
cation between the two fides of the fame Street
but by bridges, of which their are great num
bers thrown over the water at no great diftance
from each other. " The houfes are; in general,
three ftories high ; and each Story very lofty,
on account of the exceffive heat of the climate.
They are all built according to one general de-
figrt, and poffefs a certain degree Pf grandeur.
both in their external and interior appearance.
The lower Story of the houfes is built of ftone,
covered with marble ; and the upper part is
compofed of a fine red brick ; the windows,
which are very large, are coped with marble ;
and the wooden frame -work 'richly gilt and or
namented. The inhabitants appear to have a
very great pride in preferving the exterior beauty
of their houfes, and ufe a fort of red paint for
that purpofe, with which they walh, or colour
the fronts of them at leaft once. a week.
On each fide of the canal there are tw.o rows
of evergreen trees, which add Very much to the
E beauty

( 5« )
k793. beauty of the ftreets. There are alfo in dif-
lMa;ch/ ferent parts of each Street, fmall Square build
ings, with feats in them for the accommodation
of paSTengers, as Shelter or Shade may be necef-
a'ry, from the violence of the rain or the heat
of the fun.
The only public buildings which merit par
ticular attention, are the palace of the Gover
nor-General, the arfenal, the ftadthoufe, and
the high church.
The firft of them forms a termination to the
principal ftreet of the place ; its fore-court is
handfomely railed, and the front gate is guarded
by centinels. This edifice is of ftone, and of
an impofing appearance : it confifts of four
ftories, with a central dome crowned with a
turret ; there are alfo large wings projecting on
either Side from the main body, with fur-
rounding piazzas. A battalion of foldiers is
constantly on duty here, and confifts chiefly of
Malays commanded by European officers. "I
'faw alfo a few European foldiers, who, though
they were much better cloathed and accoutred
than the native troops, have fuch a meagre,
pale, and ghaffly appearance, as to be but ill-
qualified for the duties of their own, or any
other profeflion. I was informed by fome of
them, that not one in twenty of the military
who came frPm Europe ever returned thither ;
and

( 5* )
and that even thofe who efcape from hence, and 1793°
furvive all the dangers and diforders of the cli- m^IT
mate, generally go back to their own country
with emaciated forms and debilitated constitu
tions. ". ;
This palace appears to have been "built at fe
veral distinct periods, from the dates which are
engraved, in different parts of it. The dates
1630, 1636, and 1660, mark, as I fuppofe,
the particular years when certain principal part6
of it" were erected. Before the court there is a
kind of lawn, with a walk in the middle,
Shaded with rows of trees ; and to the left of
this lawn, at a fmall diftance from the palace,
Stands the arfenal, before which lay a great
number of new brafs guns, gun-carriages, Shot
of all kinds piled up, and fifty large cannon
Completely mounted. This building, as may
be fuppofed, is more remarkable for its ftrength,
than the beauty of its external appearance, and
contains an immenfe quantity of all kinds Of
ordnance and military Stores, both in its
chamber, and in the deep vaults beneath the
building. Beyond this lawn or walk is a canal, over
which a draw-bridge communicates with one of
the forts ; and near, it is a very elegant ftone
building, with corresponding wings, built in
a very pleafing flile of architecture : it is called
E z the

( 5* )
the fmall armoury, and, as I was informed on
the fpot, contains two hundred thoufand Stand
of arms. Around this edifice there are feveral
large courts, which contaip* residences for the
principal officers, as well as barracks for twenty-
thoufand men : but this vail range of buildings
is no longer inhabited, on account of the con
tagious diforders that are fo frequent in this city.
The officers have all of them places of resi
dence at fome diftance from the town ; and all
the European regiments are quartered in the
country ; the guard on the city duty being re
gularly relieved every morning. The regi,
ment appointed for duty marches every day into
town, at fix o'clock in the morning, to the
grand parade oppofite the Governor's palace ;
one battalion of which attends the Governor's
duty, and the other is diflributed among the
feveral guards around the city.
Near the fort, which has been already men
tioned, Hands the cuftom-houfe, belonging to
the Dutch Eaft-India Company, with their
ftore-houfes, and other commercial erections.
There is alfo a fmall dock yard, where boats
and a few inconsiderable veffels were building.
There is a chain thrown acrofs the canal, every
night, to prevent all communication with boats
after a certain hour, and a fort has been erected
pear the cuftom-houfe, with a view, as it ap
pears,

( 53 )
pears, to protect it : but without pretending to
any. knowledge in the fcience of defence, or
military tactics, I could difcOver that this place
was in no condition to refift a well-appointed
enemy ; nor could I reconcile the defcncelefs
ftate of this valuable Settlement to the wealth
and importance of it.
At the end of the ftreet leading from the Go
vernor's houfe, and in a handfome fquare,
Stands the ftadthoufe, where the Courts of juf-
tice are held, and the fupreme council meet
to proceed in their deliberations : it is a very
fine building, with an interior court furrounded
by a piazza. At a fmall diftance from the
ftadthoufe is the principal church of the. city,
which is Surrounded by a cemetery. It is a large,
plain, fquare building, with a dome in the.
center, and a lofty turret fpringing from it. The
infide is fitted up in a very beautiful manner ;
the tribune belonging to the Governor-General
is very much enriched ; the pews are very com-
modioufly arranged ; and, indeed, every part
is admirably adapted to the purpofes of that re
ligion to which it is'devoted. The walls of the
church are entirely covered with efcutcheons
and painted infcriptions, facred to the memory
of the dead : , thefe infcriptions are of different
Sizes, but being painted in the fame form, en-
E 3 clofed

( 54 )
elofed in gilt frames, and difpofed with judg-»
ment, produce a very pleating effect.
The civil government of BataVia and the
iflancl of Java is perfectly arbitrary, and Vetted
in the Governor and Supreme Council in all
matters excepting thofe of trade and com
merce, which are fubject to an officer called a
Director General, from whofe decisions there.
is no appeal,
The feverity of the laws, arid the rigour with
which they are executed, could find no juf-
^ifieation in a Settlement belonging to an Eu
ropean government ; were it not for the favage
and ferocious difpofition of the natives of the
country, whom no punishments, however fre
quent or fevere, are able to maintain in that
State of difcipline and good order, which is fp
peceflary to the well-being and comfort of ci
vilifed life.
The number of regular troops quartered in
the neighbourhood of Batavia, including both
the European and Malay regiments, amounts
to about twelve thoufand men : there are alfo
upwards of twenty thoufand native militia, who
are regularly cloafhecr and paid ; but though
they are frequently muftered, by order of the
Governor, they are never actually embodied,
but in time of war, or in confequence of fome
civil commotion. The European troops are
cloathed

( 55 )
cloathed in a manner Suitable to the climate, 1793.
are allowed to carry on any trade or profefliop 'Ma'vchi'
for which they are qualified, and are otherwife
remunerated by particular privileges ; if any
thing can remunerate them for the dangers
and inconveniences that refult from this unge-r
nial clime. The Malay troops, on the, con
trary, are destitute of any decent cloathing ; at
leaft, none of therp are allowed Shops or Stock
ings ; and in this miferable State of equipment
they do their duty.
Batavia is extremely populous ; and among
its inhabitants may be found the natives of every
European country:, the larger . proportion of
them, however, are Chinefe, who appear to
be a quiet and induftrious people. It feemed to
be a general opinion among thofe, of whom I
had an opportunity to make the inquiry, that
this city contains two hundred thoufand fouls ;
one half of which are fuppofed to be Chinefe,
and the other, Europeans and native Malays :
npr when I conlider the extent of the city and
its fuburbs, do I conceive it to be an exagge
rated calculation.
On my return to the hotel after the morning's
excursion, of which I have given the inforrpa^
tion it produced, I found, with great concern,
that Lord Macartney had been feized with
a violent fit of the gout, and was returned on
E 4 board

( 5^ )
board the Lion ; fo that all the various enter
tainments which were preparing to have en
livened the time of our Stay at Batavia, were
frustrated by this very unpleafant change in the
health of the distinguished perfon who was the
object of them.
I flipped this evening at the Batavian hotel,
in company with two French gentlemen, who
had been fo fortunate as to efcape from a band
of Malays. The villains had attacked them in,
the ftreet ; a circ.umftance which often hap
pens, and particularly to Strangers who pafs
the ftreets after it is dark.
Tuefday 12. I repeated my excurfions through the city.
wedncf- Several gentlemen of the Ambaffador's fuite
being taken ill, they were ordered to go on
board their respective Ships, and large quanti
ties of fruit were purchafed for their ufe and /
refreshment. In the evening I went to fee the tragedy of
Mahomet, and paid a rix-dollar for admiffion.
The theatre is fituated in the middle of a large
garden, which is a place of public refort for the
Batavians of every rank and denomination. It
is a fpacious brick building, decorated with
great elegance, and fitted up with front and
fide boxes, and galleries : its orcheflra alfo-
contained a tolerable band of mufic.
The

( 57 )
The' play, as far as I could judge from the 1793.
attitudes of. the actors, and the eXprelfion of "Ma;ch/
their countenances^ for the whole was in the
Dutch language, was very well performed.
The entertainment, to my furprize, was Bar-
naby Brittle, and afforded much amufement.
The audience was very brilliant, but the more
fplendid part of it arofe from the fuperior figure,
appearance, and beauty of fome Englifh ladies
who graced the boxes on the occafion.
At noon there was an auction, or, as it is Thurf-day 24*
here termed, an outcry of certain lands and
eftates, belonging to fome of thofe fortunate
individuals, who, having efcaped the dangers
of the climate, return with the large fortunes
they have acquired here, to enjoy the comforts
and luxurious eafe of Europe.
- Thefe fales cannot take place, but under the
infpection of the Commiffary General, or his
deputies, who muft always be prefent on the . '
occafion. Notice is given of thefe auctions
throughout the city and Suburbs by a certain
number of men, who beat gongs to collect the
people together in the different ftreets ; when
a perfon, authorifed by the Commiffary Gene
ral, reads over the articles to be fold, and the
conditions of fale : in every other refpect, thefe
fales are conducted in the fame manner as thofe
in England. " '
Captain

( 58 )
1793- Captain Mackintosh came. on Shore, and
m^X purchafed a French brig, to anfwer the purpofe,
Friday 15. Qc fae Jackall, from whom we had been fo
long feparated, that we defpaired of feeing her

again.

Saturday 16. This evening I had reafon to confider as one
of the moft fortunate of my life, having efcaped
from a gang of Malays, who certainly formed a
defign, as they had almcSt irrefiftible tempta
tion to deftroy me.
The principal' part of the baggage belonging
to the Ambaffador 's fuite having been already
fent on board the respective Ships, I was
charged by Mr. Maxwell to fee that the reft of
the packages, and a cheft of dollars, were put
' on board a prow hired for the purpofe; and was
ordered, at the fame time, to go down with
the prow to the boom, and remain there till
Mr. Maxwell arrived, which he promifed to
do in half an hour. I accordingly fet off, and
arrived at the boom about eight o'clock,' when
I fattened the boat to the cuftom-houfe quay,
and anxioUlly waited the arrival of Mr. Max
well. In this unpleafant lituation I remained
till nine o'clock, when the boom was thrown
acrofs the water, and the bridge drawn up. My
uneafinefs now became of a very ferious na
ture, as I well knew that Mr. Maxwell could
not reach me but by a Special order from the
1 Governor ;

( 59 )
Governor; while I was not only in danger of 1793-
lofing the property under my care, from the March.
Malays, who were continually running back
wards and forwards to the prow, and examining
the articles on board, but of being myfelf Sa
crificed to make the booty more fecure to them.
In this Situation, I formed the refolution of
making the beft of my way to the Lion ; and,
accordingly, Ordered the Malays to row off for
the Ship, which they at firft refufed ; but after
Shewing them fome money, they took the oars,
as I expected, to comply with my wifhes; but,
inftead of rowing towards the Ship, they rowed
the prow clofe to the Shore, about a gun-Shot
from the mouth of the canal, and at leaft half
a mile from any houfe. They then all ruri
alhore, and, in fpite of threats or entreaties,
left me to myfelf in a much worfe Situation than
I was before, as I was now more remote from
any affiftance, in cafe I Should be in a fltuation
to require it.
In about twenty minutes thefe wretches re
turned in greater numbers, which increafed my
apprehenfions, as they all entered into the prow,
and, putting off from the land, attempted to
row, into the bay ; in Short, a violent Scuffle
enfued between us, in which I at length fuc-
ceeded, by means of a drawn fword that I ufed
with fome effect, in driving them all on Shore,
except

¦ ( 6o )
1793. except one man, whom I compelled, by ter-
u^ ror of the fame instrument, to row the veffel
to the cuftom-houfe, where I waited till paft
eleven ; and, defpairing of feeing Mr. Maxwell
till the next day, I took all the articles out of
the boat, and lodged them in a public houfe
for further fecurity. I had, however, fcarce
finifhed this neceffary arrangement, when I
faw Mr. Maxwell, attended by feveral Slaves
with flambeaux, arrive on the oppofite fide of
the water. I inflantly hailed him ; when he
came over to me, and all the packages being
again put into the prow, we fet fail for the
Lion, and fome time after midnight arrived on
board. The hotel in which the Ambaffador's flute
refided, during our flay at Batavia, is a very
fuperb building of its kind, and was erected
;. at the expenfe of government for the accom
modation of foreigners and mercantile Stran
gers. It is under the fole management and
controul of the Governor- General and Council,
by whofe regulations the bufinefs of the houfe
is conducted. It is called the Royal Batavian and Foreign
Hotel, and this title appears in large golden
letters in the front of the houfe, with the date
of 1729, the year in which it was built. It
contains) three regular ftories ; and, as each
floor

(.6i)
* *
• floor is very lofty, for the benefit of the air, 1793.
the building rifes to a very considerable height. March!
It is constructed, like the other edifices of the,
place, with brick painted of a red colour,
while the feams of mortar between are pro-
portionably whitened : the windows are alfo \
very large and broad, the frames of which are
gilt or curioufly painted ; the whole forming a
very large and handfome ftructure., , -
There are three doors in the front, and a
kind of terrace raifed above the pavement be-
fore them, which is covered by a -portico ;
where the company, refident in the houfe, ufu-
ally fit after dinner and fmoke their pipes : each
of thefe doors forms an entrance into a hall
about two hundred feet in length, and- about
Sixty in breadth ; at the extremity of which
there is a large flair-cafe that leads to the bed
chamber apartments, and the flat roof above
them. In the center hall there are at leaft thirty
elegant lamps and chandeliers, which are
lighted up every night, and, oppofite to them,
on the wall, is a range of looking-glaffes, the
reflection of which heightens the brilliance of
the -illumination : the piers between them are \
adorned with paintings. In the center of the
middle Jiall is a large arch, from which a Silver
chandelier is fulpended ; the other halls have each

( 62 )
1793. each a door of the fame dimensions exactly
March, oppofite, and thefe respectively lead to an
apartment with an alcove roof, neatly orna
mented with Stucco, which contains a billiard
tabic furrounded with lamps. From the center
of the principal hall the coup d'ceil at night
is perfectly enchanting, from the great num
ber of, lights, and the regular order in which
they are placed ; the billiard rooms alfo with
their lamps corresponding exactly with each
other. Behiad the houfe there is a Spacious gallery
with piazzas, from whence a large Shade of
filk, fancifully painted with figures and gro-
tefque characters, is occasionally lowered irt
the day, as the heat of the fun may require;
in the evening it is entirely dropped, when the
gallery is lighted up in the fame manner as
the apartments already defcribed. Beyond this
gallery, there is a court paved with large flat
ftories, and furrounded with a variety of offices
for poulterers, butchers, and other domeftic
ufes, with a fpacious kitchen, and every accef-
fory accommodation. The upper Story of this
range of building is divided into granaries and
chambers for the principal and other Slaves, of
which there are altogether at leaft ninety, of
both fexes, who belong to the mafter of the
hotel. Thefe menial perfons are promoted ac
cording

( 63 )
cording to their merits ; and, if they are in
dustrious and attentive to the duties of their
feveral departments, they may, from the emo
luments of their Situation, which are very con
siderable, be foon in a condition to purchafe
' their freedom.
In the great hall on the firfl floor, which
Serves as a veftibule to the Sleeping apartments
that furroulid it, there is a chryftal lamp reple
nished With cocoa-nut oil, always burning on a
table at the door of each room, which is ready
for the perfon that occupies it, at whatever time
he may choofe to retire to his repofe ; it being
the cuftom of the hotel that every one fhould
keep the key of his own room, as a Security
againft the Malays, who are of fuch an incor
rigible nature, that no punifhment can ulti
mately deter them from indulging their difpo
fition to pilfer.
The public regulations of the houfe referable
thofe of European hotels, and the table which
was kept for the Ambaffador's fuite was very
fuperb. The breakfaft always confifted of tea,
coffee, chocolate, and cocoa, with every kind
of cold meat, broiled fifh, and eggs; to which
were added jellies, fweet-meats, and honey,
with various kinds of wines and confectionary,
all furnifhed in great abundance, and arranged
in the handfomeft manner. Both the dinner and

( 64 )
1 793- a~nd fupper confifted of the moft delicate diShes,
"7Ju"rd^ and dreffed in a fuperior Stile of cookery.. The
fervants table was alfo fupplied with equal pro
priety and plenty.
The rate of living here, however, is very
expensive, and the prices of liquors very exor
bitant: Small beer and porter were charged
half a crown English per bottle. But when
the prodigious rent of this hotel, amounting, as
the landlord himfelf affured me, to Sixty thou
fand rix-doilars per annum, and the expenfe of
Importing liquors and other commodities from
Europe, with the duties on them, is considered,
the high price of living, in fuch a Situation,
could no longer be regarded either with furprife
or difcontent;
The drefs of the inhabitants of Batavia takes
its rife from the cuftom of their respective coun
tries. The European ladies, indeed, icera not
to be altogether governed by this principle, but
fuit their dreffes to their own peculiar fancy,
and the -circumftances of the climate ; while the
Dutch and the Malay women, in fome degree,
imitate their faftiions. The head-drefs of the
latter, however, is altogether different, and of
a very curious appearance. — The hair is comb
ed backward from the forehead, and Smoothed
with oil and eSfences in fuch a manner as to
wear the appearance of being japanned; it is
then

( 65 )
then twifted hard, and, being laid in a circular J793»
form round the crown of the head, is fattened MarchT
by a large comb with a number of gold arid, Sil
ver pins, the heads of which are formed of pre
cious Stones, according to the rank' of the wear
er. Hair powder is very little ufed in Batavia,.
and by the Europeans alone. It was, however,
with no fmall degree of exultation that I faw
the decided fuperiority which the few English
ladies who refide here,* poflefs over every other
denomination of females, not only in graceful-
nefs of perfon, and fweetnefs of countenance, v
but, alfo, in the Simplicity of their drefs and the
elegance of their manners.
The Suburbs of Batavia, or, as it is generally
called, the Chinefe town, from being chiefly
inhabited by thofe pepple, lie on the fouth and
weft Sides of the ditch that furrounds the city
wall, and are fcattered about the country for
feveral miles. The houfes are, in general, of
wood, and have no pretentions to elegance ot
beauty ; though their warehoufes are fitted up
with a certain degree of glare apd gaudinefs. A
great variety of manufactures are carried on
here by the induftrious Chinamen : indeed, all
the artificers and mechanics in Batavia are from
China ; the Europeans, through a foolifh and
unpardonable pride, , considering it as beneath
them to perform any mechanical operations ;
F and

( '66 )
and the Malays appear to be curfed wifh a na
tural incapacity to be instructed in any thing
above the drudgery of manual labour.
The whole of thefe fuburbs forms a fcattered
mafs of deformity and confufion ; and the hor
rid Stenches which arifefrom ftagnarit water
and various filthy caiifes, cannot be defcribed.
In the Surrounding country there are a great
many beautiful feats and villas, with fine gar
dens ; but the ground being every where
fwampy, the number of drains with which it
is tfeceffarily inteffected, renders it more or lefs
unwholefome in every part.
In palling through the fifh market, I was
under the neceflity of retiring into a tavern, to
get fome Madeira and water, in order to reco
ver myfelf from the overcoming effect of the
putrid Smells that affailed me. There appeared,
however, to he a great abundance of fifh in this
obnoxious place ; but, except turtle, they bore
a very exorbitant price.
The city and fuburbs of Batavia certainly
form one. of the moft unwholefome fpots in the
world, and may be juftly termed the grave of
Europeans : but the unfalutary and infectious
nature of the'place might be very much allevi
ated by an attention to cleanliriefs, which feems
'not to be at all confidered by the government or
police of the city. A cornpany of fcavengers would

( 67 )
would be of infinite ufe to the comfort and
health of the inhabitants of Batavia ; but there
is no fuch establishment.
The heat of the fun is fo great, that the ca
nals are frequently dried up, or their waters
rendered putrid : but this is not fo malignant a
fource of "peftilential difeafe, as the naftinefs
¦that prevails among the lower claSfes of the
people, and the inattention to remove the re
ceptacles of putrefaction among the higher or
ders of them. Nor is it eafily to be reconciled,
that the fpirit of cleanlinefs, fo prevalent in Hol
land, Should totally evaporate in a voyage to the
moft important of its Afiatic poSfeSfions. Nay,
it has been considered b)>- political writers, that
the inattention to remedy the evils which have
been defcribed, is to be attributed to the com
mercial policy of the Dutch, in order to difcou-
rage foreigners from Settling among them, and
Sharing the great, but hazardous, advantages
to be derived from participating in any branch
of commerce in this oriental emporium : or, in
cafe of a foreign war, to deter any enemy from
invading a place, the very airs of which are
more hoftile to human life than the weapons of
battle. I Shall only add, that, within the laft
twenty years, no lefs than ninety-eight thou
fand deaths appear on the records of the public
hpfpital in Batavia.
Fz .At

( 6B )
^y. At fix o'clock in the morning we weighed
March, anchor and made fail, running between the
Sunday 17. ' O
ifland of Onrooft and the main.
This ifland is fituated in the middle of the
bay* and about four miles from Batavia. Its
length does not exceed three quarters of a mile,
and it is no more than half a mile in breadth. It
contains, neverthelefs, an handfome populous
town, with a ftrong fort. In this little fpot
there are feveral founderies and manufactures,
and the whole is a fcene of induflry and land-
' fcape beauty. It is alfo furrounded with feve
ral iflands of the fame defcription, moft of
which are inhabited; great numbers of people
wifely preferring thefe Situations ; which,
though immoderately hot, are free from thofe
contagious difeafes that infect the city and fub
urbs of Batavia.

CHAP*.

( 69 )

CHAP. II.
The Jackall brig rejoins the Lion.—Leighton, the
carpenter, murdered by the Malays. — Lord Ma
cartney views the fpot where Colonel Cathcart was
buried.- — Came to Pulo Condore; fome account of
its inhabitants ; their alarm. — Paffed various
iflands.- — -Arrived at Turon bay, in Cochin China. —
1 x Several mandarins came on board the Lion ; an
account of them. — The chief minifter of the King
of Cochin China vifits Lord Macartney. — Prefents
received. — Lord Macartney returns the vifit on,
Jhore in form.' — The mafier of the Lion feized by
the natives, but releafed in a few days. — The in
terment of Mr. Tothill, purfer of the Lion.

Ti

HE owner of the French brig came on 1793,
board, and was paid for her in dollars, MaTd^
The weather was infupportably hot.— -Lord Monday i|
Macartney was flill fo much indifpofed as not
to fee company.
The new brig joined us, which Lord Ma- wcdner,
cartney was pleafed to name the Clarence, in ay *c
honour of his Royal Highnefs the Duke of
Clarence. Boarded the Achilles, from Oftend to Bata- x
via, who gave fome account of the Jackall brig,
F 3 with

( 1° )
with whom we parted company in a gale of
wind in the Bay of Bifcay.
This morning, at fix, we difcoveredra fail at
a great diftance, which, from the account given
by the Oftend veflel, was fuppofed to be the
Jackall. After a long feries of doubts, .conjec
tures, and folicitudes on the fubject, Sir Eraf
mus Gower dispatched Lieutenant Cox, in the
N pinnace, to afcertain the truth.. At noon, the
pinnace returned with the agreeable intelli
gence, that the Ship we had feen was the
Jackall brig, whom we had long ago fuppofed
- to have been loft.
Sunday 24. Mr. Saunders, from the Jackall, came on
board to deliver his log-book to Sir Erafmus
Gower. At four o'clock, we faw a fail, which
^proved to be the Concord, from China to
Bengal.
Friday jo. William Leighton, Lord' Macartney's joiner,
who went afhore in order to walh his linen at
the watering-place at Sumatra beach, was mur
dered by the Malays. His body being found
covered with wounds, was brought on board
the Lion, and afterwards interred, with all
becoming ceremony and refpect, on North
island. He was a very ingenious artifan, and an
honeft, intelligent, and amiable man. But the
melancholy which pervaded every countenance
throughout the Ship's company, on his death,
is a more honourable and decided testimony of
his

( 7* )
his merit and character, than any expressions
of regard which I might, employ on the occa
fion, At half paft fix, A. M. we weighed apd Monday it
came to fail ; at eight, Mortnay Ifland, fouth
by eaft ; Stroome Rock, fouth-eaft, ¦ half a
mile : at eleven, came to, in feventeen fathom,
water. Angara Point flag-Staff, fouth. by eaft.
The cap, north-north-eaft, and button, north
by, eaft. The accommodation ladder was
hoifted put after dinner, and foon after Lord
Macartney, accompanied by Sir Erafmus Gow
er, went aShore, and. viewed the Spot where the
Honourable Colonel Cathcart, brother to Lord
Cathcart, a former minifter from, the King of
Great Britain to the court of China, was in
terred ; and whofe death put an end to that
diplomatic expedition, which he had been ap
pointed to copduct.
The weather continued moderate, with occa
sional SreSh breezes and light airs, for the fuc-
ceeding , fortnight, which was employed in
wooding, watering, receiving buffaloes on
board, and making the neceSfary arrangements
for the remaining part of the voyage. We
paffed, and occasionally anchpred at Ninah
Ifland, and the Polar, Hound, and Tamarind
iflands. At four in the afternoon the body of Thar- Sunday 14.
buny Ifland bore north-north-weft j and at five , -
F 4 .we

( 7* )
we came into fifteen fathom water. Found
here the Sullivan homeward bound Indiaman,
the Jackall, and the Clarence, with an Impe
rial Ship. Arrived the Royal Admiral In
diaman,.
¦jTuefday ?6. , The Sullivan and the Royal Admiral, India-
men, failed for England.
We continued coafting along, and paffed by
numerous iflands, with moderate weather ;
which was only once interrupted by a Squall,
accompanied by rain, and followed by thunder
and lightning, till we came to anchor in the
fputh-weftern extremity of Pulo Condore bay.
'm M/y- * A party, foon after our arrival, went ' on
Shore, after having called at the Hindoftan, for
Sir George and Mr. Staunton, and Mr. Niaung,
one of the Chinefe who had accompanied us
from Europe. We reached the fhore in about
an hour and a half; and, on our landing, fome
of the natives came out to meet us on the beach,
with whom we proceeded towards a wood, with
fix men from the boats, properly armed with
mufquets and ammunition. We had not, how
ever, proceeded more than an hundred yards,
when we came to a few miferable huts, built of
bamboo,' and Scattered about the place where
they are fituated. One of them was inhabited
by a perfon ftiled the chief, or mandarin, in
whom was veiled the government of the ifland, Thig

( 73 )
This hut, like the reft, was raifed about three 1793.
feet from the ground, with a roof of bamboo, ^JC^
and Supported by four pofts fixed in the earth.
Such is the only miferable Shelter which the in
habitants poSfefs.
In this houfe, if it may be thought to deferve
that name, there were feveral people, all na
tives of Cochin China, but who fpoke the
Tartar language. None of them, except the
chief, had any covering Jmt a Strip of linen
round their waifts, and a kind of black turban
on their heads, The chief, to whom the reft.
paid great obedience, was distinguished by
wearing a lbofe black gown, made of a ftuff
like crape ; under which he wore a pair of wide,
black filk trowfers. Over his Shoulder was
thrown a Silver cord, to which was fufpended
behind a fmall embroidered bag of very exqui-
fite workmanfhip. His head was alfo covered
with a black turban ; but he was, in common
with the reft, without Shoes.
At the diftance of a few yards from the hut
Stood their temple, whofe exterior form was the
fame as the other buildings. The infide was
furnished, or, as it muft have been considered
by them, ornamented with fome old fire-arms,
a few-cutlaSfes, and three daggers. A fwivel,
and fome long Spontoons, were laid acrofs the
jrpof ; while feveral lances, and creates, (a
kind

( 74 )
kind of poifonous dagger, ufed by the- Afiatie
Savages) were piled up againft a bamboo poft,
in the middle of the building. It was evident,
from the conduct of thefe people, that they
were not accuftomed to the ufe of fire-arms, as
they appeared to confider thefe warlike instru
ments as objects of adoration. This opinion
was confirmed by the alarm and aftonifhment*
they expreSfed on my discharging a mufquef at
the trunk of a tree ; and the eagernefs whh
which they examined the place where the ball,
had entered. But this did not content them ;
for they contrived to extract the ball, which
they Shewed to each other with marks of ex
treme amazement.
We remained near two hours on Shore, and
entered into a treaty with the chief, to procure
us as many buffaloes, with as much poultry,
fruit, &c. as could be Spared from the ifland,
and for which he was to be paid his own price :
to this proposition he readily agreed, and pro-:
mifcd that the commiflion Should be immedi-'
ately executed, and the different articles be
ready for delivery on the next day. After the
agreement was thus amicably fettled, the chief
offered us a regale of rice and fifh, of which we
all tafted. He then pointed to fome cocoarnut •
trees, as if to know if we Should chufe to have
any of them ; and no fooner was it fignified to
him

( 75 )
him that a prefent of that fruit would be accep
table, than a number of his people were in
stantly ordered to gather them. It was furpri-
flng to fee with what agility they climbed up
thefe very lofty trees ; and as they threw down
the nuts, others below immediately Skinned
and handed them round to the company.. We
then took our leave of the mandarin, and, on
our way to the beach, faw feveral canoes which
were building ; and one of them appeared to be
of a very ingenious construction. •
The ifland of Pulo Condore has but few in
habitants, and thofe it poffeSfes are not collected
together in any town^ but live in bamboo huts,
fcattered up and down the country. It pro
duces no fruit but cocoa-nuts and watermelons,
and , no grain but fome coarfe rice. It has,
however, plenty of buffaloes, with a kind of
wild duck, _and the common fowls, fome of
which are domefticated with them. This ifland,
however, has a noble bay, which produces a
fifh that reSembles our whiting, in great abun
dance, and has a Safe anchorage, except along
the Shore, where for about three quarters of a
mile it is full of Shoals. The ifland is fubject
to the King of Cochin China, and lies in the
Chinefe ocean. Long, one hundred and feven
deg. twenty-fix min''. eaft. Lat. -two deg. forty
min. north.
On

( 76 )
1793- On returning to the Ships we met with s
^^ very heavy Squall, attended with violent rain. .
Friday 17. This morning I went aShore with a party,
accompanied by Mr. Niaung, in order to receive
the feveral articles for which a bargain had
been made with the mandarin on the preced
ing day.
On our landing, and going to the hut belong
ing to the chief, we found, to our utter afloniSh-
ment, that the people had deferted their ha
bitations, and carried off every article with
them : even the temple was Stripped of all its
warlike treafure. This extraordinary and un
expected circumstance was, however, explained
in, a letter, which we found in the chief's hut.
It was written in Chinefe characters, and ex-
preffed the apprehenfions of the iflanders at
feeing our Ships in their bay : a Sight they had
never beheld before. In Short, this appearance
was fo formidable to them , that they concluded
our defigns muft be hoftile ; and in order to
avoid the deftruclion which they imagined us
to have meditated againft them, they had, dur^
ing the night, conveyed away their effects, and
retired to the mountains. The letter alfo re^
prefented their extreme poverty, and implored
us with the moft humble expreflions, not to
burn or deftroy their huts, as they propofed to
re-inhabit them as foon as the Squadron had
' 3 failed. '

( 77 )
failed.' We, therefore, returned to the Ships as
we left them, without fruits, or fowls, or buf
faloes. -
Heavy gales. At four in the afternoon Saturday ig.
Squally ; at eight, weighed anchor j and came
to fail.
Having paffed in the intermediate time- feve- Thurr.
ral iflands of different forms, we, this day, faw
the extremes of Polu Canton, °an ifland off the
coaft of Cochin China, bearing north by weft,
to north-weft by weft.
At nine in the evening we anchored in Sunday 26.
Turon Bay, in Cochin China; and found there
a Portuguefe brig, who faluted us with eleven
guns. The Ship's company employed in watering. Monday 27.
The water here is of a reddish colour. Several
prows came along-fide the Lion with ducks,
cocoa-nuts, and joghry, for fale. Several man
darins alfo came on board to fee the Ship.
Men were fent on Shore to raife tents for the Tuefday a8.
Sick. The Ambaffador wasvifited by feveral man- wednet
darins, with a great train of attendants. They
were entertained with wines and liquors of va
rious kinds, which, however, they were very
cautious in tafting, till Lord Macartney banish
ed all apprehenfions by fetting them the exam
ple : they then drank, without referve, what ever

( 78 )
ever was offered to them. ; but they appeared to
prefer cherry and raSberry brandy to all the other
liquors with which they were regaled.
' The drefs of thefe perfons confifted chiefly
of a black loofe gown, of a kind of crape, with
filk trowfers, flippers, and a black turban : a
girdle of Silver cordage was alfo tied round
their waift. Some of them, but whether it
arofe from accident, or was a badge of distinc
tion, I cannot tell, wore dark blue gowns of
the fame ftuff. The domeftics were clad in a
plaid or Tartan drefs ; their trowfers were tuck
ed up to the knee, and their legs were entirely
naked, nor did they wear either fhoes or flip
pers ; their turban was of plaid, like the reft of
their very curious drefs.
FrMay 31. In the evening, the Prime Minifter of
the King of Cochin China came on board
the Lion, accompanied by feveral mandarins,
and a considerable train of attendants, to requeft
the AmbaSfador's company to dinner, in the
name of the King, who had given his minifter
a fpecial commiSfion to make this invitation. It
was, accordingly, fignified to this distinguished
perfonage, that his Excellency received ' the
meffage with the utmoft refpect, and would, in.
confequence of it, go on Shore on Tuefday
morning, at ten o'clock. After

( 79 )
After this conference, the Chinefe minifter, 1793.
and Ms fuite, returned in their barges, which ^w"*
were decorated in a very gaudy manner. They Satuiday *•
were faluted on their departure from the fhip
with five guns.
In the forenoon the Ambaffador received a
vifit from two mandarins, who brought from
the King of Cochin China a prefent, consist
ing of v 10 Buffaloes,
50 Hogs,
160 Fowls,
150 Ducks,
aoo Bags of rice, and
6 Large jars ef famptfoo.
The laft is a liquor made in China, an$.im-
ported from thence.
I went a Shore in the forenoon and faw the Sunday 9.
town, the name of which is Fie-foo. It con
fifts of nothing more than a crowd of wretched
bamboo huts, though it contains a Spacious
market-place, well fupplied with ducks, fowls,
eggs, cocoa-nuts,- and fruits. The furrounding
country is flat, and very fertile : but the natives
feem to have little or no idea of cultivation^
which would make it the fcene of extreme
abundance. Their principal traffic feems to be
with their women, by configning them, for a
certain consideration, to the fociety of Euro-
1 peans

( So )
peans who touch here. They have no coin,'
but a fort of fmall caxee, a white metal piece
current in China, about the Size of our farthing ;
and all their Silver is in the form of long bars,
or wedges. The residence of the principal
mandarin conflftsof a large open range of bam
boo huts, of a better form, and more elegant
appearance than the reft ; containing feveral
rooms of a Size and agreeable proportions,
which are fitted up and furnished in a neat and
ornamental manner.
Monday 3. In the afternoon the Ambaffador's guards,
with fome of the marines, went on Shore to
practife the ceremonial duties that had been af-'
Signed them for the following day.
tuefday 4. This mof ning the Ambaffador, attended by
his whole fuite, in full uniforrn, with Sir Eraf
mus Gower, Captain Mackintosh, and feveral of
the officers of the Lion and Hindoftan, went on
Shore with great ceremony ; when, in honour of
the birth-day of our moft excellent Sovereign,
George the Third, he was faluted with twenty-
one guns by the Lion, the Hindoftan, and Por
tuguese brig. The British troops, "with their of
ficers and band of mufic, had been previously
fent aShore to wait his Excellency's arrival.
On this day the royal Standard of Great Bri
tain was difplayed at the main-top-gallant-
royal Piatt ; the St. George's enfign at the fore-
top-gallant

( 8r )
top-gallant ditto ; and the union at the
mizen. The Ambaffador was received on his land
ing by feveral mandarins, with every mark of
attention and refpect ; when be proceeded,
under an efcort of his own troops, to the houfe
pf the Prime Minifter, where a collation in the
beft manner of the country was prepared for
him. Here bis Excellency remained for fome
time ; and, after an exchange of mutual ci
vilities, returned to the Lion, when he was fa
luted by fifteen guns from all the Ships lying at
anchor. I went afhore in the afternoon, and pur- wedncf--
chafed fome fruit. and fugar of a Very good
quality ; it is made in large cakes, and refem-
btes fine bread, for which, at fome fmall dif
tance, it may be actually mistaken. I alfo faw ,
Six large elephants, which had been brought '
for the amufement of the mandarins ; they ap
peared to be perfectly innocent, were obedient
to every command, and performed many feats
of unwieldy agility. Thefe huge aniriials
moved at the rate of eight miles an hour.
In the courfe of this mornipg the fick were Friday ?.
received on board the Ships from their late
Station on Shore.
Mr. Jackfon, mafter of the Lion, went in
the cutter to take foundings in the bay ; but
G having

( 82 )
having entered the mouth of the river Camp-
vella, which rifcs about eight miles up the
country, and forms a confluence with the river
that difcharges itfelf into Turon Bay, he incon
siderately began to furvey, and take plans of
the coaft ; but, in attempting to execute this
defign, he, with the feven men who accom
panied him, were made prifoners by the na
tives, who feized the boat, and carried them to
the capital city of the kingdom.
This very difagreeable intelligence was com
municated from the Shore by the mandarins,
whofe good offices were earnestly folicited by
Lord Macartney and Sir Erafmus Gowrer, to
obtain' the return of thefe men to the Ship. In
deed, this unreflecting conduct of the mafter
might, as it was feared, be attended with con-
fequences that would have interrupted the
courfe of the embaffy, as the country of Cochin
China is tributary to the Chinefe empire, and
fends an annual ambaffador to the court of
Pekin ; fo that all this bufinefs might have
been mhreprefented in fuch a manner to the
Chinefe government, as to have leffened the
good dispositions we were difpofed to believe
it poffeffed towards the BritiSh embaffy'. In
Short, it appeared, that very ferious apprehen
fions were entertained on that fubject, by thofe
who were the belt qualified to form a right
judgment

( 83 )
judgment of the policy and temper of the court 1793,
which was the obiect of our destination. ' 'k7v~i">
J ' . June.
Mr'. Niaung went on Shore with fome of the Tuefday u»
Ambaffador's fuite, to inquire concerning the
BritiSh prifoners, and he was informed by the
mandarins that they had been releafed, and
were on their return.
William Tothill, Efq. purfer of the Lion, *«**"
died this morning, after an illnefs of a few
days. The King of Cochin China fent another
large prefent of rice to the Ambaffador.
The body of Mr. Tothill was interred on fhutf-
Shore with every poflible mark of refpect and
regard; Sir Erafmus Gower alfo ordered an
infcription to be cut in wood, which was after
wards placed on his grave.
At four o'clock in the afternoon Mr. Jackfon
returned with the cutter and his men, from
their imprifonment ; during which period they
had undergone the fevereSt fufferings both in
bpdy and mind ; and no circumflance, but
their belonging to the BritiSh embaffy, could
have preferved them from being put to death.

G a CHAP.

'( 84 )

CHAP. IIL
Leave Turon Bay. — Sir George Staunton, &c. fail
in the Jackall for Macao. — Enter the Yellow Sea.
— Lieut. Campbell goes to Mettow. — Prefent
from the mandarin of Chufan. — Number of fick
on board the Lion.— Meffrs. Huttner and Plumb
go to Mettow to arrange the landing of the em
baffy. — A mandarin arrives on board.— The fol
diers, mechanics, and fuite, go on board the junks,
with the prefents, baggage, &c. — Ihe Ambaffador
lands at Mettow. — Defcription of that place.
XJlT four in the afternoon weighed and ftt
Sunday 16. y -i r t1 T)
1 Sail from Turon xsay.
Thurf- The weather was moderate and fair. At Six
day- 20. P. M. faw the land north-north-eaft ; at eight
the body of the Grand Ladrone bore north-
north-eaft.
, . Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with one of
Lord Macartney's fecretaries, were charged
with letters and bufinefs to the commiffioners,
: Meffrs. Brown, Irvine, and Jackfon, who were
fent from England to notify in China the ex
pected embaffy, and who were then at Macao.
They accordingly fet fail in the Jackall brig,
accom-

( 85 )
accompanied by the Clarence, for that place,
to execute their commiffion. Mr. Coa and
Mr. Niaung, the two natives of China whom
we had brought from Europe, accompanied
them on the occafion, with the defign to pro
ceed over land to the place of their nativity. .
Thefe worthy and amiable men took a very
affectionate leave of their friends on board the
Lion, with whom they had made fo long a
voyage ; but with all the impatience natural
to thofe who had been removed at fuch a dif
tance, and for fo great a length of time, from
their relations, friends, and native land.
At half paft eight in the, morning we came
to anchor in eleven fathom water, on the north
point of the Grand Ladrone ifland.
The Jackall and Clarence ^returned from Sunday *3,
Macao. Sir George Staunton foon after came
on board;' and, from the intelligence commu
nicated to him by the commiflioners, the moft
fanguine hopes were entertained that this ex
traordinary and important embaffy would be
crowned with fuccefs.
We now entered the Yellow Sea, when
nothing material happened that can juftify
particular defcription, till we arrived at the end
pf this branch of our voyage. In our paffage
we faw many iflands, and occasionally met
G 3 whh

1,793. July.

( 86 )
with Chinefe junks, fifhing boats, and other
circumftances, which denoted our approach to
that part of the continent to which we were
deftined. There being feveral rocks On the Chinefe
"coaft, in the Yellow Sea, that had no deno
mination in any chart, Sir Erafmus Gower
thought proper to name them after the three
principal characters of the embaffy. Thus we
find our journals contain, in this part of the
voyage, the names of Cape Macartney, Cape
Gower, and Staunton's Ifland.
Sunday u. At fix o'clock in the afternoon:, the Lion
came to an anchor in Jangangfoe Bay 3 Mettow
Iflands bearing from north to north-weft by
weft, two miles off Shore.
Lieut. Campbell, with Mr. Huttner, Mr.
Plumb, the interpreter, and Lieut. Omriianey,
went in the cutter to Mettow, to be informed
if there was any tract by which the Lion could
enter the river, or if there was any river on
that coaft, which was navigable for Ships of
her burthen, and by whofe navigation She could
make a nearer approach to Pekin. If the an-
fwers to thefe queftions did not prove fatisfac-
tory, thofe gentlemen were then to concert
meafures with the mandarin of the place for
the difembarkation of the fpite there. The

( 87 )
The brig Endeavour arrived from Macao 1793.
and Canton with" difpatches from the commif- j^
fionerS. " > Monday 22.
This morning a mandarin of Chufan fent a Tucfoay 23.
prefent of twelve fine fmall bullocks, a number
of hogs, with a large quantity of frPit, garden
Stuff, and rice.
The cutter returned with Lieut. Campbell Thui-r-
and his company, who gave a very favourable
account of the hofpitality of the Chinefe at
Mettow ; where they were not only received
with the greatest civility, but furnifhed with
every poffible accommodation, and fupplied
with the greater! plenty and abundance. At the
fame time Mr. Campbell reported the abfolute
impracticability of proceeding further, as the
whole way to the mouth of the river forms a
chain of Shoals, while a bar runs acrofs the en
trance of it, which is not more than fix feet
deep, even at high water. In confequence of
this report, Sir Erafmus Gower refolved to pro
ceed no further.
The report of the furgeon amounted to Saturday:*,
ninety -three fick men on board the lion.
The Jackall and Clarence failed with Mr.
Huttner and Mr. Plumb to Mettow, to make
arrangements with the mandarins for the land
ing of the embaffy, and to fix the time when
\hc Ambaffador fliould go on Shore ; the refult
G 4 of ,

( 83 )
of whofe commiffion was, that large junks
would be lent for the reception of the fuite and
basfape, as foon as the wind ferved.
DO O ' '
Friday;. A prefent of Sixteen bullocks, thirty-two
fine large Sheep, fome hogs, with vegetables,
tea, fugar, &c. was fent on board the Lion.
A principal mandarin alfo came on board from
one of the junks, and dined with Lord Macart
ney ; where he appeared in a very awkward
Situation, as the Chinefe do not know the ufe
of knives and forks. This officer finally fettled
with his Excellency, that the fucceeding Mon-
, day Should be the day of his difembarkation ;
but that the heavy baggage, &c. Should be
previously transshipped into the junks. The
mandarin expreffed great furprife at our wooden
palace, and couid fcarce believe the various ar
rangements and wonderful conyeniencies of it.
He was hoifted into one of our boats ip the ac
commodation chair; a ceremony with which he
appeared to be infinitely delighted.
Sunday 4. A mandarin came on board to dinner. The
prefents, baggage, &c. w^ereall Shipped into the
junks ; and on board the fame veffels were fent
the foldiers, mechanics, and great part of his
Excellency's fervants.
MopJay 5. This morning at four o'clock feveral junks
came along fide the Lion to receive the remain
der of the Ambaffador's baggage. His Excel lence"

. ( 89 )
lency then took his breakfaft on board, and
was joined by the remainder of his fuite from
the Hindoftan.
At eight o'clock Sir Erafmus Gower gave
orders for the Ship's company to man Ship,
previous to his Excellency's difembarkation,
which took place almoft immediately ; when
he was faluted with three cheers from the fea-
men, and the discharge of nineteen guns from
the Lion and Hindoftan.
At nine o'clock the remainder of the fuite
took their Stations on different junks ; the Am
baffador, Sir George Staunton and fon, having
gone on board the Clarence brig, the accom
modations of the junks being not only very in
convenient, but extremely dirty, and otherwifc
very unfit to receive them.
The number of junks .employed on the oc
cafion for the reception of the fuite and bag
gage, amounted to twenty fail, of about an
hundred tons burthen.
At two o'clock in the afternoon we Saw the
town and fort of Mettow ; and at three the
junks came to anchor at the mouth of the river,
where we found the Jackall, Clarence, and En
deavour arrived before us. From the feveral
Short turnings at this part of the river, we were
pbliged frequently to anchor and weigh, in or
der to avoid the Shoals. At

( 9° )
'793- At four the whole fleet came»to anchor oppo-
Auguft. file the palace of the principal mandarin.
The town, though extenfive, has not the
charm of elegance, or the merit of uniformity :
indeed, its Situation is fuch as to exclude any
encouragement to beautify and adorn it, being
lituated on a fwamp, occafloned by the frequent
\ ' overflowing of the fea, notwithstanding the
precaution of the inhabitants to make an em
bankment on the Shore.
The houfes, or huts, for they rather deferve
the latter name, are built altogether of mud,
with bamboo roofs : they are very low, and
without either floors or pavements. At a fmall
diftance from the town there are feveral build
ings of a very fuperior form and appearance,
which belong to the mandarins of the place :
they are constructed of Stone and wood ; the
body of the houfe being of the former, and
the wings and galleries, which are very pretty,
„ and painted of various colours, of the latter
material : they are of a fquare form, and three
Stories in height ; each Story having a fur-
rounding range of palifadoes, which are richly
gilt and fancifully painted. The lower flory,
or ground floor, is fronted with piazzas, which
are ornamented in the fame manner. The
vvings project on each fide the body of the
houfe,

( 9i )
houfe, and appear to contain 'a considerable
range of apartments.
Each mandarin is attended by a great num
ber of guards, conflfting both of infantry and
cavalry, who five in tents pitched round the
refidence of the perfonage; whom they Serve.
Notwithstanding its unfavourable Situation,
the immenfe crowd of Spectators 'who aflem-
bled to fee the Ambaffador come on Shore,
proves Mettow to be a place of prodigious po
pulation. Many of thefe curious people were
on horfeback and in carriages; fo that the
banks of the river where our junks lay at
anchor were entirely covered with them.
The only fort in this place confifts Simply of
a fquare tower, and feems to have been con
structed for ornament rather. than public utility;
for, though it Stands on the very margin of the
fea, and commands the entrance of the river,
not a Single piece of ordnance appeared on the
walls. The breadth of this part of the river is about
a furlong, and the colour of the water is muddy,
refembling that of the Yellow Ocean with
which it mingles ; its depth is very unequal,.
being in fome parts nine, and in others fix
feet deep ; but in no part lefs than two. At
the entrance, as has been already mentioned,
there is a bar or bank of fand, which Stretches acrofs

( 9* ) ,
i793- acrofs if; and, at full tide, has not more depth
^^ than fix or feven feet ; though, on the fide to
wards the fea, and at a few yards only from the
bar, there are upwards of fix fathoms water.
The environs of the town prefent, on both
fides of the river, an expanfe of flat country ;
which poffeffes a rich foil, and boafts extraor
dinary fertility.
In the evening, we received from the man
darin a very refreshing and acceptable prefent
pf dreffed meats and fruits.

CHAP.

( 93 )

CHAP. IV.
An account of the mandarin appointed to conduct the
accommodations for the embaffy. — Various prefents
of provifions. — Grofs habits of the Chinefe re-
fpetting their food. — Defcription of the junks. —
Order of thofe veffels fitted up for the accommo
dation of the Britifh Ambaffador and his fuite.
JL HE whole of this morning was employed 1793.
in tranfshipping the baggage to the accommo- Xmmft.
dation junks, hired for the embaffy by Van- Tuefday 6-
Tadge-In, a mandarin of the firft clafs, who had
been appointed by the Emperor to conduct the
bufinefs of the embaffy, in every thing that
related to the residence, provifions, and journey
of the fuite.
This perfon became interesting to us, as he
was appointed to attend the embaffy during the
time we Should remain in China. He was
about five feet nine inches in height, flout,
well made, and of a dark complexion, but of
a remarkably pleating and open countenance :
his manners and deportment were polite and
unaffected ; and the appointment of fuch a
man, fo admirably qualified to fulfil the pe
culiar duties to which he was nominated, gave us

( 94 )
us a very favourable opinion of the good fenfe
of the Chinefe government, and ferved to en
courage our hopes of fuccefs in the important
objects of this diftinguifhed embaffy. ;
We received at noon, from the mandarin's
boat, which was accompanied by Mr. Plumb,
the interpreter, a quantity of raw beef, with
bread and fruit : the beef, though not fat, is of
a very good quality ; but the bread, though
made of excellent flour, was by no means plea-
fant to our palate : as the Chinefe do not make
ufe of yeafl, or bake it in an oven, it is, in
fact, little better than common dough. The
Shape and Size of the loaves are thofe of an or
dinary wafK-ball cut in two. They are com-
pofed of nothing more than flour and water,
and ranged on bars which are laid acrofs an
iron hollow pan, containing a certain quantity ,
of^ water, which is then placed on an earthen
Stove ; when the water boils, the veffel, or pan,
is covered over with fomething like a fhallow
tub, and the fteam of the water, for a few
minutes, is all the baking, if it may be fo
called, which the bread receives. In this ftate
we found it neceffary to cut it in Slices and
toafl it, before we could reconcile it to our ap-
.petites. The fruits, which made a part of this
prefent, confifted of apples, pears, Shaddocks,
and oranges of a fuperior flavour.
? In

k

( 95 )
, In the afternoon we received another very '793-
large fupply of provifions ready drefled, con- Auguit.
Sifting of beef, mutton, pork, whole pigs, and
poultry of all forts, both roaft and boiled.
The roaft-meat had a very Singular appear- '
a nee, as they ufe fome preparation of oil, that
gives it a glofs like that of varnifh ; nor was
its flavour fo agreeable to our palates, as the
difhes produced by the clean and Simple cookery
of our European kitchens. Their boiled meat,
being free from the oily tafte of that which is
roafted or baked, was far preferable*
We were, however, in fome degree affected
by the accounts we had heard of the indif
ference of the Chinefe concerning their food ;
and that they not only eat all animal food with
out distinction, but do not difcard even fuch as
die of difeafes from their meals. This cir
cumstance made feveral of our party very cau
tious of what they ate ; and as to their hafhes
and ftews, maay refufed their allowance of
thefe difhes, from the apprehenfion of their
being compofed of unwholefome flefh.
But it was not merely from the information
. of others that we felt a difguft at Chinefe
cookery, as we had ocular demonstration of
the grofs appetites of the Chinefe people. The
pigs on board the Lion being, affected with a
diforder, which is always fatal to thefe animals, feveral.

( 96 )
feveral of them were thrown overboard ; which
circumstance being obferved by the Chinefe
belonging to the junks, they inflantly got out
their boats and picked up thefe difeafed carcafes,
which they immediately cut up, and having
dreffed a part of them, appeared to make a very
comfortable meal, not unaccompanied with
marks of derilion at the English for their ex
travagant delicacy.
We were at firft difpofed to believe that this
groffnefs of appetite was confined to the lower
claffes of the people, who were generally in
fuch a ftate of indigence, as to be glad to ob
tain meat in the accidental wray which we have
juft mentioned : but we afterwards learned,
that the more independent clafles of people,
and even the mandarins themfelves, are not
exempt from a cupola, in domeftic eeconomy,
at which the eager appetite of the Starving
European would revolt.
In the warm feafon, this part of the country
fwarms with mofquitos, that tormenting infect
which is fo diftrcfling to the inhabitants of the
Warmer climates. '
wedhef- This morning 1 went on board the accom-
^y 7- modatioil junk, occupied by Captain Mackin
tosh;, of the Hindoftan, who was required to
accompany the embaffy to Pekin. The fqua-
dron, in the mean time, received inflructions to

Auguft,

( 97 )
fco return to Chufan harbour, and, to wait there, i hi
till further orders.
The junks, or Chinefe veSfels, are formed oh.
ftruction I never remember to have feen
j other part of the world. They are built
ich Wood and bamboo, with a flat bot-
they arp of different fizes, from thirty to
ndred feet in, length ; the breadth of the
t are from twenty to thirty feet, and the
:r ones in proportion,
this junk there -was on the firft. deck a
of very rieat and commodious apart-
, which were clean, and decorated with
rigs. They confifted of three Sleeping
[tents, a dining parlour, with a kitchen j
wo rooms for fervants. The floor is
tP lift up by hatches all along the junk^
h of which there is a brafs ring : beneath!
ioid, of vacant fpace for containing lum^
and the quantity of goods that can be
I away in thefe places is alrpoft incre-
the upper or main deck, there is a range
rteeri or fifteen fmall chambers, allotted
: ufe of the men belonging to the junk,
„„_ _n apartment for the captain or owner of
the veffel.
In the lower deck, the windows are made of
Wpp4 with very fmall fquare holes, covered
H with

( 98 )
with a flirt of glazed, tfanfparent pamper ; the?
faShes are divided into four parts, and made to
take out occasionally, either to admit the air
for coolnefs, or to fweeten the apartments.-
On the outflde there is a coloured curtain, that
extends from one end of the junk to the other,
•which, in very hot weather, is unfurled ; and
fixed up to Shade the apartments from the heat
of the fun. There are alfo Shutters, which
Slide before the windows, to prevent the effects
of cold weather, or any inclemency of the
feafon. There is' a gang- way on both fides of the
veffel, about thirty inches, broad, by way of
paffage, without entering into any of the
apartments ; and though many of thefe veffels-
carry from two to three hundred tons, they
only draw three feet Water, fo that they can be
worked with eafe and fafety in the moft Shoaly
rivers. Some of thefe junks have two malts,
though, in general, they have\but one, with a
very awkward kind of rudder ; but the more
elegant veffels of this kind, which I have juft
defcribed, are only calculated for the naviga
tion of a river ; as they are not constructed with
fufficient ftrength to refift the violent effects of
wind and weather.
It is ufual for all veffels which navigate the
rivers in China, to have a lamp, with a lighted candle

Auguft.

> ( 99 )
feandle in it, hoifted to the maft head/ as foori 1793*
as it is dark, to prevent thofe accidents which
Would otherwife very frequently happen from
veffels running foul of each other. Thefe lamps
are made of tranfparent paper, with characters
painted on fhemj to notify what junk it is, or
the rank of any paffengers on board it : if
they are perfons. of diftinction, three of thefe
lanterns are ufually fufpended. The veffel is
alfo illuminated in other parts, particularly
round the deck ; and thenUmber of lights are
generally proportioned to the rank of the per
fons who occupy the junk. The fame fervice
which the lamps perform by night, as far as
relates to notification, is performed in the day
time by filken enfigns, whofe painted charac
ters Specify in the fame manner, the existing
circumftances of the veffel. It may be eafily
conceived, that, from the prodigious number
of junks which navigate this river, a very pleaf-
ing, and fometimes, indeed, a grand effect
is produced, by fuch an affemblage of lights
moving along the water.
I am not qualified to determine whether it
proceeds from the domeftic policy of the Chi
nefe, from prejudice in favour of long-eftab-
liihed habits, or an ignorance of mechanics,
but they have not made any advancement in
the fcience of naval architecture: the junks of
H 2 the

( loo )
*793» the laft century, and thofe of the prefent day^
Auguft. are invariably the fame.
The. order in whiqh the veffels appropriated
for- the purpofe of conveying the BritiSh embaffy
to Pekin proceeded, was as follows :
The grand Mandarin, and his fuite, in five
junks.
Junk, No. il His Excellency the Earl Ma
cartney.
 — a. Sjr George and Mr. Staunton*
— — — 3. Mr. Plumb, the Chinefe rnter-i
prefer. *
¦  — 4. Lieut. Col. Benfon, Lieut. Pa
rish, and Lieut. Crewe.
- — . ™ 5. Capt. Mackint6fh\of the Hin-
' , doftan, Mr. "Maxwell, Dn<
Gillan, ancl Mr. Huttner.
¦•— — — 6* Mr. Barrow, Mr. Winder; and
Mr. Baring, (foil of Sir
Francis Baring.)
"— *— — ?• Dr- Scott, Dr. Dinwiddie$ Mr/
Hickey, and Mr. Alexan*
der*
Thefe, with the junks which contained the
foldiersj mechanics, . and fervahts, coi^pofed
the naval proceffiom

CHAP.

( io.i )

CHAP. V.
Lord Macartney leaves Mettow, and fets fail for
Pekin. — Beauty and fertility of the country. —
Various circumftances of the voyage. — Ihe foldiers
of China defcribed.-*-Ihe navigation of the river.
— 'Some account of the tea tree, with the manner
.of making tea as a beverage, — Prodigious popula
tion of the country. — Arrive at the city of lyen^
Jing : fome account of it. — -A Chinefe play. — De
fcription of the mandarin's palace, &c.
J. -.HIS morning the Ambaffador paid a vifit J793-
to the principal mandarin of Mettow, to take Ai^uft.
leave, on his departure for Pekin ; and at eleven
o'clock, the fleet of junks, with his Excellency
and the whole fuite on board, proceeded on
their voyage.
We received a large fupply of provifions, Thurfday %.
ready dreffed, together with tea, fligar, bread,
vegetables of all forts, and a large .quantify of
fruit, confiflipg of apples, pears, grapes, and
oranges, which never failed to make a part of
thofe fupplies for the table with which the em
baffy was at all times furnifhed, in the greatest
abundance. We alfo received, at this time, a,
provision of wood and chare for culinary
H- 3 " ufes..

( 10a )
ufes. I made fome inquiries after mineral coal,
but it was not known at Mettow, nor could I
learn whether it is found or ufed in any part of
China. We had proceeded but a very few miles up
the river, when the country difplayed profpects
of fuch peculiar novelty and beauty as would
baffle any attempts of mine to defcribe them,
The view on all fides prefents fields rich in va
rious cultivation, with extenfive meadows co
vered with fheep and the fineft cattle. > Their
gardens appeared to be equally difpofed for.
domeftic pfe and pleafufe ; producing at the
fame time abundance of vegetables, and the
fineft fruits; while the" eye was charmed with
the beauty of their fcenery, and the gaiety of
their decorations. On the firft gljmpfe of their
grounds, whether applied to the more folid
ufes of agriculture, or the more elegant ar
rangement of their gardens, in railing grain
and efculent plants, or cultivating fruits and
flowers, I was convinced that the Chinefe were
no mean proficients in botanical knowledge, as
well as in the fcience of farming, and the art of
ornamental gardening. I alfo obferved, that
the fields were as well guarded by fences, both-
in the form of hedges and ftone walls, as any
I had feen in the enclofed parts of my own
pountry.

( I03 )-
During the day, the guards belonging to the
mandarin marched along the banks of the river ;
and at night pitched their tents oppofite to the
ftation where the junks lay at anchor ; when
they kept a regular watch till the hour of the
morning appointed for the fleet to proceed on
its voyage. The front of each tent was adorned
with lamps, fo that the camp on Shore, and the
junks on the water, formed together a con
siderable illumination, and produced a, very
uncommon and pleating effect.
The centinels on Shore have, each of them,
a piece of hollow bamboo, which they Strike at
regular intervals, with a mallet, to announce
that they are awake and vigilant in their re
spective Stations. This cuftom, as I was in
formed by the peyings, or foldiers themfelves,
js univerfal throughout the/Chi'nefe army.
We were awakened ata vei'y early hour by Friday^
the found of the gongs, which formed, the
fignal for failing.
The gong is an instrument of a circular form,
made of brafs ; it refembles, in fome degree,
the cover of a large flewpan, and is ufed as bells.
or trumpets are in Europe, to convey notice,
or make Signals, from one place to another ;
when they are Struck with a large wooden mal
let, which, is covered with leather, a found is.
H 4 prcv*

( i°4 )
produced that may be distinctly heard &t the
distance of a league.
We received the ufual ''fupply of provision's,
with the addition, for the firft time, of fome wine
of the country in a ftone jar ; its colour is
nearly that of what is called Lisbon wine in
England, and is equally1 clear ; it - is rather
Strong, but of an unpleafant flavour, being
harSh and Sharp, and, in Short, has more the
tafte of vinegar than wine, The jar which con
tained it was equal, in meafure, to three Englifh
gallons, and the mouth of it was covered with
a large plantane leaf, clofed in with a cap of
play, on which was fixed a red label, marked
with certain Chinefe characters, to denote, as
I flappofe, the contents of the veffel.
'We paffed feveral very populous towns on
both Sides of the rivfjr, but Situated at fome dif
tance from it. The Ambaffador, however, re
ceived military honours from the foldiers be-
longipg to them, who were drawn up on the
jjank, O'p either Side, contiguous to their re-:
fpective cantonments, and furrounded by an
Immenfe crowd of Spectators.
The uniform of the foldiers confifts of a large
pair of loofe black nankeen trowfers, which
they ftuff into a kind of quilted cotton Stock
ings, made in the form pf boots. They always wrap.

( io5 )
wrap their feet in a cotton rag before they draw 1793.
thefe boots over their trowfers; they add alfo a "Xutui.
pair of very clumfy Shoes, made of cotton, the
foles of which are, at leaft, an inch thick, and
very broad at the points. Thefe trowfers have
no 'waiftband, fo that they lap over, and are
tied with a piece Of common tape, to which is
generally fufpended a fmall leathern bag, or
purfe, to contain money. Thefe foldiers do
not ufe either Shirts, waiftcoats, or neckcloths ;
but wear a large mantle of black nankeen,
with loofe fleeves, which is edged with the fame
material, but Of a red colour. Round theie
middle there is a broad girdle, ornamented in
the center with what appears to be a pebble of
about the Size of half-a-crown, though, as I
was informed, it is an hard fubflance or pafte
made of rice. From this girdle is fufpended a
pipe and bag to hold tobacco, on one Side, and
p fan op the other; which are annually allowed
them by the Emperor, as well as a daily por
tion of tobacco, a plant that grows in the ut-
moft 'abundance in every part of China.
The Chinefe troops were always, when I faw
them, drawn up in Single ranks, with a great
number of colours or Standards, which are
chiefly made of -green filk, with a red border,
arad enriched with golden characters. They
wear their fwords on #ie left fide, but the
handle

( *°6 )
»793> handle or hilt is backwards, and the point for-,
Auguft. wards, fo that, when they draw thefe weapons,
they put their hands behind their backs, and
unfheath them without being immediately per
ceived ; a manoeuvre which they execute with
great dexterity, and is well adapted for the
purpofes of attack, as a foreign antagonist,
who is not accuftomed to this mode of afiault,
would be probably wounded, at leaft, before
he was prepared to defend himfelf againft it.
Under th ir left arm is flung a bow ; and a
quiver, generally containing twelve arrows,
hangs on their backs: others are armed with
match-locks of a very rufly appearance.
Their heads are Shaved round the crown,
ears, and neck, except a fmall part on the back
of the head, where the hair, which is en
couraged to grow to a great length, hangs
down their backs in a plait, and is tied at the
end with a riband. They wearra Shallow Straw
hat very neatly made, which is neceffarily tied
under the chin with a Siring, and is decorated
with a bunch of camel's hair, dyed of a red
colour. On all occafions, Similar to that ..which
brought thefe troops to the banks of the river
to do military honour to the BritiSh Ambaffa-
dor, a temporary arch covered with Silk is placed
at each end pf the line, in which the mandarins fit

Auguft.

( 107 )
fit till the proceffion, or perfon to be faluted, 1793.
appears, when they come forward and make
their appearance. Near thefe arches are three
fmall fwivels about thirty inches in length,
which are fixed in the ground with the muzzle
pointing to the air : thefe are difeharged as the
perfon to he honoured with the falute paffes the
mandarin at the end of the line. This mode
of firing falutes the Chinefe very fenfibly adopt
to prevent accidents, obferving, at the fame
time, in their account of if, that a loaded gun
fhodld never be levelled, but at their enemies.
In the management of artillery and fire arms,
it is not to be fuppofed that Europeans can de
rive any one improvement from the inhabitants
of the eaft ; but we well know that very melan
choly, and fometimes fatal accidents are occa
sioned from the want of Similar regulations, by
the difcharge both of great guns and fmall arms
oh our days of public rejoicing.
The houfes fcattered on the banks of the
river were chiefly built of mud, rarely inter
mixed with fome of a better form, which were
constructed of Stone, and finifhed with great
neatnefs, producing a very pretty effect, as we
paffed them, from the water.
The women . at thefe places, of whom we
Saw great numbers, have their feet and ancles
jjnjverfally bound with red tape, to prevent, as

( ioB )
as it is Said, their feet from growing the natural
Size : fo very tight is thisbandage drawn round
them, that1 they walk with great difficulty ; and
when we confider that this extraordinary prac
tice commences with their infancy, it is rather
a. matter of furprife that they Should be able to
walk at all. If we except this Strange manage
ment, or rather mifmaraagement, of their feet,
and their head-drefs, there is very little dif-
tinction between the dreSs of the males and
females. The women wear their hair combed back on
the crown of the head, and Smoothed with
ointment ; it is then neatly rolled into a fort
¦of club, and ornamented with artificial flowers
and large Silver pins: the hair on the back
part of the head is done up as tight as poflible
and inferted beneath the club. In every other
refpect their drefs corresponds with that of the
men : they differ, indeed, in nothing from
that of the foldiers, which has been already
defcribed, but' that they bear no arms, have no
red border on their cloaths, or tuft of hair on
their hats.
As far as I could judge of the length of this
day's voyage, it could not have exceeded
twenty-four miles; in the courfe of which we
reckoned upwards of fix hundred junks that
paffed us, and I may fay, withoPt the leaft fear
3 of

( k>9 )
of exaggeration* th&t we faw twice that iiuni-
ber lying at anchor ; nor Shall I hefitate to add,
that, on the moft moderate computation, we
beheld: at leaft half a million of people.
The river, befides the variety and extent of
its navigation, is in itfelf a grand and beautiful
object, enriched with an equal diflribution of
rich and picturefque Scenery : its courfe waves
in the fineft meanders ; its banks on either fide
are adorned with elegant villas and delightful
gardens ; while the more diftant country offers
the intermingled profpect of fplendid cultivation
and landscape beauty, f)
The fleet came to anchor clofe into the Shore
at eight o'clock in the evening.
The gongs, as ufoal, gave the Signal for
weighing, anchor, and proceeding on our voy
age. The weather was extremely hot and ful-
try, and the country continued to wear that ap-^
pearance of fertility, which had hitherto distin
guished' it.
We for the firft time faw fome plantations of
the tea tree, an object which was rather inte-
tefting to the natives of a country, where, though
the climate will not admit of its growth, it has
defcended, from, being a luxury, into a necefl
Skry of life.
The tea tree is pf a dwarf Size, with a nar
row leaf refembl ing myrtle* It was the feafoa when

X

( no )
*793- when thefe trees were in bloffom, which thef
Aq£uft. Chinefe pluck and dry ; and the younger the-
bloffom is, when plucked, the' higher the fla
vour of the tea is considered with which it is
-mixed. It is a curious circurnftance that, although
this province is fo abundant in its produce of
tea, it appears to be a very fcarce commodity
among the lower clafs of [people ; as the men-
belonging to our junk never failed, after we had
finished our breakfaft, to requeft the boon of
our tea-leaves, which they drained and Spread
in the fun until they were dry ; they then boiled
them for a certain time, and poured them with
the liquor into a ftone jar, and this formed their
ordinary beverage. When the water is nearly
drawn off, they add more boiling water ; and
in this manner thefe leaves are drawn and re-
boiled for feveral weeks. On fome particular
occafions, they put a few grains of frefh tea into
a cup, and, after having poured boiling water
upon it, cover it up : when it has remained in
this ftate for a few minutes, they drink it with
out fugar, an article which the Chinefe never
mix with tea.
We this day paffed feveral populous villages,
compofed of very neat houfes of one Story, and
built of brick ; and from every one of them
the Ambaffador received thofe honours which have

( tit )
have been already defcribed. The crowds of
people which affembled to fee a parade of
fo much novelty as the fleet that conveyed the
BritiSh embaffy, were beyond all calculation,
and gave us a complete idea of the immenfe po^
pulation attributed to the Chinefe empire. Nor
was the flate of the navigation that appeared on
the river lefs aftopifhing ; the junks which, we
continued to fee at every moment of our paf
fage, were fometimes fo numerous, that the
water was covered with them.
The fleet came to an anchor at the ufual hour
of eight o'clock in the evening.
At four o'clock in the morning we renewed Sunday n.
our voyage ; the country ftill appearing in its
ufual flate of fertility and beauty; and as far as
the delighted eye could reach, an uncultivated
Spot was no where to be feen.
The banks of the river were now varied with
fields of millet and rice.. The Stalks of the
former are very tall, with branching leaves,
and the points of them bear the feed, which is
a very principal article of food in this country.
The rice grows very much like our corn, and
thrives belt in a marShy foil : I obferved, in
deed, that fome of the rice fields were entirely
covered with water.
- About fix o'clock we approached the city of
Tyen-fing, where we were met by crowds of
fpecta-

( $*2 )
Spectators, both in junks and on the fhorfc^
that defied all attempt to calculate their num
bers. As we proceeded, we faw a long range 'of
heaps, or ricks, of fait, in ranks or columns
of fifty each, from front to rear : thefe heaps
are about eighteen or twenty feet fquare, and
twenty- four feet in height, and are covered with
matting to preferve them from the effects of the'
weather ; each of them containing, as I was
informed, about five hundred tons of fait. Irj
this order, and without variation, or interrup
tion, the range continued for two miles along
the banks of the river. For what purpofe this
immenfe quantity of fait was depofited there, I
could not learn ; nor was there any appearance
of a manufactory to juflify the idea of its being
made there.
At nine o'clock we entered the city, amidft
the poife and Shoutings of, I doubt not, fome
hundred thoufands of fpectators. The houfes
of this place are built of brick, and, in general,
are carried to the height of two ftories, with
roofs of tiles : they are all of a lead colour,'
and had a very neat and pretty appearance t
The place, however, is not formed on any re^
gular plan : the ftreets, or rather alleys, are fo
narrow, as to admit, with difficulty, two per
fons to walk abreaft ; and have no pavemenl It

r "3 )
It is, however, of great extent, and populous
beyond defcription. •• '
Before the palace of the mandarin, a larger
body of troops were drawn tip than we had yet
feen, who carried, at leaft, one hundred and
fifty Standards.
At half paft ten, the Ambaffador, attended
by all his fuite, guards, &c. in full formality,
went on Shore to pay a vifit to the chief man1-
darin of the city, whofe palace is at a fmall dif
tance' from the river, and placed in the center
of a very fine garden : it is a lofty edifice, built
of brick, with a range of palifadoes in the fronts
fancifully gilt and painted. The center build
ing has three* and the wings two Stories* The
outfide wall is decorated with paintings, and the
roof is coloured with a yellow varnifh that pro
duces a very fplendid effect. This building
,contains feveral interior courts, handfomely
paved with broad, flat Stones.
The Ambaffador and his Suite were enter
tained with a cold collation, conflfting of difhes
drefled in the faShion of the country, with tea,
fruit, and a great Variety of confectionary ; a
branch of table luxury which is well under
stood by the Chinefe.
A play was alfo performed on the occafion,
as a particular mark of refpect and attention to
the distinguished vifitor. The theatre is a fquare
I building,

*793«
Augu&

Aujuft.

( "4 )
1793. building, built principally of wood, and is
erected in the front of the mandarin's palace.
The Stage, or- platform, is furrounded with gal
leries ; and the whole wras, on this occafion,
decorated with a profusion of ribands, and
Silken Streamers of various colours. The the
atrical exhibitions conflfted chiefly of war
like reprefentations : fuch as imaginary battles,
with fwords* Spears, and lances ; which wea
pons the performers managed with an aflonifh-
ing activity. The fcenes were beautifully gilt
and painted, and the dreffes of the actors were
ornamented in conformity to the enrichments of
the fcenery. The exhibition received alfo an
agreeable variety from feveral very curious de
ceptions by flight of hand and theatrical ma
chinery. There was alfo a display of that fpe-
cies:*of agility which we call tumbling ; wherein
the performers executed their parts with fupe
rior addrefs and activity. Some of the actors
were dreffed in female characters ; but I was
informed at the time, that they were eunuchs,
as the Chinefe never fuffer their women to ap
pear in fuch a flate of public exhibition as the
Stage. The performance was alfo enlivened by
a band of mufic, which confifted entirely of
wind inftruments : fome of them were very
long and refemblcd a trumpet; others had the
appearance of French-horns, and clarinets j
the

( »i )
Ihe fourids of the latter brought to rriy recol
lection that of a Scotch bag-pipe ; and their
Concert, being destitute both of melody and
harmony, Was of courfe very difagreeable to
our ears, which are accuftomed to fuch per
fection in thofe effential points of mUfic. But
we had every reafon to be Satisfied with the en
tertainment, as the circumftances of it were re
plete with novelty and curious amufemerit.
The drefs of the foldiers, as well as their
arms and accoutrements, was the fame as thofe
which we have already defcribed, except in an
additional colour ; as it was now white and
blue, though equally boPnd with the fame
broad red binding. Some of thefe foldiers, oP
the prefent occafion, were employed, with long
whips, to keep off the crowd from preffing oil
the proceffioP of the Ambaffador and his
fuite. His Excellency was faluted, both on his ar
rival arid at his departure* with three pieces of
Small ordnance 5 and foon after his return tP
the veffel the fleet fet fail, amidft the greateft
concourfe of boats and people I ever beheld :— -
indeed, fo great was the drowd of both, that I
considered it as impolfible for lis to pafs on
Without being the witneffes of conflderable
mifchief. One very old junk that lay at anchor
had fueh a number of people on board it,
I z to-

/"

( 116 )
1793. to fee the extraordinary fight of the day, that
A"^v^' the fternmoft part of the deck yielded to the
enormous preffure* and fuddenly gave way,
when about forty of thefe curious people fell
into the river, and feveral of them were un
fortunately drowned* Some were, indeed,
faved by clinging to the ropes which were
thrown Out to them ; though it was very Cvi-
p> dent to thofe who witneffed the accident, that
curiofity rather than humanity prevailed on the
occafion; and that the people were more
: anxious to get a fight of the foreigners, than to
i fave the lives of their countrymen.
We received the ufual fupply of provisions
of all kinds, and a large jar of wine, from the
mandarin, which contained about ten Englifh
gallons : it was found to be of a much fuperior
quality to that which had been fent on aformer
occasion, and had not only the flavour, but
the cPlour of mountain.
A considerable proportion of thefe provisions
Was diftributed among the crews of the junks,
who received fuch art acceptable mark of kind-
nefs with the utmoft gratitude and delight-
The fuperfluous hofpitality of their country
proved, as it ought to do, a fource of occasional
plenty to thefe poor people, during the courfe
of that voyage in which we were conducted by
their Skill and labour. It

( "7 )
It may here be mentioned, that as the quota
of provifions allotted by the Chinefe govern
ment for the maintenance of the embaffy, was
on the calculation that every individual kept a
feparate table, it muft have been, as it really
was, infinitely beyond the poflibility of being
confumed by thofe alone for whofe ufe it was
prefented.

J 3 CHAP,

( 1x3 )

CHAP. VI.
Violent forms of thunder and lightning. — Prefents
diftributed among the fuite of the embaffy. — The
manner of towing the junks. — Ihe ordinary meals
of the Chinefe, and their mode of preparing them.
— The increafing appearance of the navigation. — <•
Strange habits of the lower claffes of the natives.-r-*
Poffed the town of Cho-tang-poa. — Circumftances
of the river. -7- -A vifit from the mandarin ofTyen-
fing to the Amfaffador. — His proceffion defcribed.
—Ihe neatnefs, fertility, and various productions
of the fields on eacp fide of the river.
x\ROUT four o'clock in the morning there
^T^lf was a moft tremendous ftorm of thunder, light-
Mp.iday [2. ning, and rain, which lafled about two hours.
The mandarin of Tyen-fing having fent
three parcels of coloured Silk, as a prefent, to
be diftributed among the embaffy, Mr, Max^
well, by Lord Macartney's order, delivered two
pieces of it to each gentleman in his fuite : but
as the remainder did not allow of a Similar
division, the lots were all feparated and num-
be ¦ d ; when the mechanics, fervants and mufi-
ejans, took their chance in drawing them, and,
, except

1793-

( ^9 )
except three perfons, they all obtained two pieces
of the manufacture. The foldiers received,
each of them, half a piece : thefe pieces were
only half a yard wide, and about feven yards
and a half in length : the colours were green,
mulberry, and pink ; but the Silk was of a very
indifferent quality, and would not, in England,
be worth more than eighteen pence a yard.
During the great part of this day the junks
were towed along by men particularly hired for
that curpofe : and the mode of drawing thefe
veffels, as may be fuppofed, is very different
from that employed on Similar occafions in any
of the European rivers.
On all the rivers of China there are large
bodies of men, whofe buflnefs it is to drag, or
tow the junks, when the wind or tide fails. The
method of proceeding in this buflnefs is by
fattening one rope to the maft, and another to
the head of the junk, which, being properly
fecured, the draughtfmen take the rope on fhore
along with them : the length of which muft
depend, in a great meafure, on the breadth of
the river. Thefe men have, each of them, a
piece of wood, about two feet and a half in
length, with a piece of flout cord at each end,
by which it is fattened to the ropes attached to
the junk : thefe pieces of wood being thrown
ever their heads, reft urion their breafts, and by
J 4 leaning

leaning againft them the towers increafe the.
power of their exertions : they are thus harneff-
ed, if I may ufe the expreflion, in a ftrait line, .
at the diftance of about a pace and a half from.
each other, and when they are all ready, the
leader of them gives the fignal : they then be
gin a particular kind of march, the regularity of
whofe Step is effential to the draught pf the vef
fel, and can only be maintained bya fort of chime
which they chant on the occafion : this chime,
or cry, is a kind of brief fong ; but the words,
as far as I could learn, have no more meaning
annexed to them, than the bawling tones em
ployed by our feamen, as notices to pull at the
fame moment : they appeared, however, to give
the following distinct, articulate founds, not
altogether unlike fome pf thofe which we might
hear on the Thames, or the Severn. — Hoy-
all a hoya ; — which word, for it is delivered as,
one,' was regularly fucceeded by the following
ones — hoya, hoya, hoy — waudi-hoya. Thefe
words are fling in a regular tune ; and fo uni-
verfal is this cufiom among the clafs of labour
ing Chinefe, that they cannot perform the moft
ordinary work, where numbers are employed
together, without the aid of this vqca] accom
paniment ; which I was difpofed to. think, had
forpe agreeable notes in it.

It

( "X )
It feemed, indeed, to be neceffary that thefe 1793.
poor men Should have confolation to fupport, f^&m
or fome aid to aflift ]them in the labour of
dragging thefe large junks, both night and day,
which is frequently increafed by muddy banks,
and marfhy Shores ; where I have fometimes
feen them wading up to their very Shoulders,
and dragging one another, as well as the veffel,,
after them.
This rhornipg, at feven o'clock, we received Tuefday 1%
pur ufual fupply of provifions, which we were
obliged to drefs ourfelves ; as the Chinefe are >
fo very dirty in their cookery, that it was im- 1
poffible for the inhabitants of a country where
cleanlineSs is So . prevailing a circumftahce of
the kitchen, unlefs impelled by fevere hunger,
to fubmit to it. Their manner of drefling meat
js by cutting it in very fmall pieces, which they
fry in oil, with roots and 'herbs. They have
plenty pf foy and vinegar, which they add by
way of fauce.
The diet which the common people provide
for themfelves is always the fame, and they take
their meals with the utmoft regularity, every
four hours ; it confifts of boiled rice, and fome
times of millet, with a few vegetables or turnips '
chopped fmall, and fried in oil ; this they put
into a bafon, and, when they mean to make a
regale, they pour fome foy upon it.
r The

( : 124 )
The manner of boiling rice is the only cir
cumstance of cleanlinefs which I have obferved
among them. They take a certain quantity of
rice and wafh it well in cold water ; after which
it is drained off through a fieve : they then put
the rice into boiling water, and when it is quite
foft, they take it out with a ladle, and drain it
again through a fieve : they then put it into a
clean veffel, and cover it up : there it remains
till it is blanched as white as fnow, and is as
dry as a cruft, when it becomes a moft excellent
fubftitute for bread.
The table on which they eat their meals is
no more than a foot from the ground, and they
fit round it on the floor : the veffel of rice is
then placed near it, with which each perfon fills
a fmall bafon ; he then with a couple of chop-
ftieks picks up his fried vegetables, which he
eats with his rice ; and this food they glut down
in a moft voracious manner. Except on days
of facrifice, or rejoicing, the common people of
China feldom have a better diet. Their drink,
which has already been, defcribed, is an infuflop
of tea-leaves.
We this day paffed feveral very populous
villages, though, as far as our experience qua-
P lified us to determine, there is no fuch thing as
a. village which is not populous ; and perhaps, after

( "3 )
after all, arnong the wPnders of this country the
population is the greatest.
The Shores of the river were this day lined
with fuch crowds of people to fee us, as to baffle
all defcription ; and the number of junks which
we paffed in this day's voyage, I folemnly be
lieve, without the leaft exaggeration, amounted
to at leaft four thoufand : and if the people we
faw in the different villages are calculated at
twenty times that number, the account, I be
lieve, is very much below the reality. At each
of thefe places the Ambaffador was faluted in
the manner which has already been defcribed.
Although it is not a very delicate picture to
prefent to the attention of my readers, yet, as I
profeSs to give a relation of every thing which I
faw, I Shall not omit to mention, that, this
evening, two of the Chinefe. belonging to our
junk ftripped themfelves naked, and, picking
off the vermin, which were found in great
plenty on their cloaths, proceeded to eat them
with as much eagernefs and apparent fatif-
faction, as if they were a gratifying and deli
cate food.
The weather was extremely hot and fultry, Wednef.
and the mofquitos fo troublefome during the
night, as to prove a very painful interruption to
our repofe.
We continued to pafs very extenfive fields
of millet and rice, and the country, as we pro
ceeded,

day 14.

( 124 )
ceeded, maintained its character for fertility,
cultivation, and abundance ; though in feveral
parts it afiumed a more varied and irregular ap-.
pearance thap we had yet feen.
In the forenoon we paffed a large town*
whofe name is Cho-tupg-poa. It is pleafantly
fituated on the banks of the river, and is a
place of considerable extent, The houfes are
of brick, and in general do not afcend beyond .
one ftory ; they were here remarkable for the
walls which were erected in the front of them,,
over which a great number of ladies were feen,
taking a view of the junks as they paffed be
fore the town, while the"1 fpectators, whom
curiofity had led to the banks of the river,
were, as ufual, in fuch numbers as to renew
our aftcnifhment,
We now came tp a fork of the river, and
over the lateral branch of it there were two
bridges of two arches, built of ftone in a plea
sing form, and conft-ructed with the appearance
Of no commpn architectural knowledge. At a
fmall diflance from them were the ruins of
another bridge of one arch ; it had been built
of hewn ftone, and the part which remained
bore the appearance of regular defign apd Euro
pean mafcnry. At a fmall diftapce from this
ruin, and on a gentle eminence, was the feat
or villa of the mandarin. If is a new ftone
building .

( "5 )
building of two Stories,' in a pleaflng flyle of 1.793-
architecture, with a flight of Steps riling to the ^Zi^ct!
door. The approach to it was through a neat
gateway, which was not. quite flnifned; the
mafons were then employed in completing it ;
and I was rather furprifed on obferving that
their Scaffolding was erected on the fame prin
ciple, and their work conducted very much in
the fame manner, as is employed and practifed
by the builders of our own country.
The junks were towed during the greateft
part of this day ; and at fix o'clock in the even
ing they came to anchor near the Shore.
In. a Short time after the fleet got to its
moorings, the grand mandarin of Tyen-fing, -
efcorted 'by a numerous train of attendants,
came to> pay a vifit to the Britilh Ambaffador.
The proceffion commenced with an advanced
troop of men, who were employed in Shouting
aloud as they came on, in order to notify the
approach of the mandarin, that the way might
be cleared from paffengers, and any accidental
obstacle removed which might impede his pro
grefs. This party was followed at fome. dif
tance by two- men carrying large umbrellas of
red filk, with broad pendent curtains of the
fame material; they are; ufed to Shelter the
palankin: from the burning rays of the fun. A
large band of Standard-bearers, then fpeceed ;
3 the

Auguft.

( "« )
1793. the foot foldiers follow ; the palankin next ap^
pears which bears the mandarin, and a large
eScort of cavalry clofes the proceffion.
Such is the manner in which perfons of dif-
tinction travel in China ; and their particular
rank and quality is marked by the number of
their attendants.
The mandarin of Tyen-fing remained with
Lord Macartney about an hour ; and, on his
return, the proceffion was illuminated by a
great humber of people bearing lamps and
torches, which produced a very Splendid ap
pearance.
th-orf- >phe heat Still continued to be extreme ; the
«y 15. Country varies not in the fertility of its appear
ance, and the large fields of corn which we
paffed to-day, appeared to be as fine, both as
to crop and cultivation, as thofe which are
the boaft of England. We alfo paffed a large
plantation of tea, and a vaft number of boxes
ranged in order, for the purpofe of packing the
tea, and fending it to Canton.
j In this day's voyage the banks of the river
appeared in fuch various cloathing of art and
' nature, as to diflradt the attention ; , and- the
alternate view of extensive meadows, luxuriant
.' fields, and the moft beautiful gardens, did not
fuffer the gratification of the eye, or the mind,
to be for a moment fufpended. In

( »7 )
In the evening I went on Shore, and walked I793*
along the banks of the river for a couple of Auguft.-
miles ; and, on a nearer examination of the
corn-fields, I found that the grain, which was
now almoft ripe, was of the beft quality, and
the husbandry equal to that of the English
farmer.

CHAP.

( 128 )

CHAP. VII.
Arrive at the city of long- tchew, where the voyage
ends. — The embaffy difembarks ; ceremonies on the
occafion. — The place appointed for the reception of
the prefents and the baggage defcribed. — Defcription
of the building appropriated for the refidence of the
Ambaftador and his fuite. — The domeftic worfhip of
the Chinefe. — The entertainment of the embaffy. —
An account of the city of Tong-tchew. — Circum
ftances relative to its civil government.— The pre
fents for the Emperor examined. — The artillery ex-
ercifed. — Vifit from the mandarin. — The death of
Mr. Eades, and his funeral. — The Ambaffador re
ceives notice of his departure for Pekin.
1793. -^-S we proceeded on our voyage the Villages
^T^ became more frequent, and the people more
Fnday 16. numerous. We continued to receive our ufual
fupply of meat, fowls, vegetables, and fruit ;
and about five o'clock in the afternoon of this
day, we arrived at the city of Tong-tchew,
which is fituated at the diftance of about twenty
miles from Pekin, and where our voyage up
this fine river found its termination. It may
appear to be a continual repetition of the fame
fubjeqt

( "9 )
fubject, but the circumftance appeared to be '793'
fo extraordinary that I cannot fail to repeat it, Auguft.
by obferving that at this place, the people who
covered the banks of the river far exceeded in
number any thing that we had yet feen.
Soon after the arrival of the fleet at this
, place, Lord Macartney and Sir George Staun
ton, accompanied by the conducting mandarin,
Van-Tadge-In, went on Shore to infpect the
place allotted for the landing the prefents and
" baggage, which the Chinefe had previously
erected for that purpofe. It contained about
the fpace of an acre, fenced in with matting,
and furnished with long Sheds made of uprights
of wood and matting, with a roof of the latter,
in order to prevent the packages from being
injured by the rain or dew. The ground was
entirely covered with mats, and the place well
guarded on all fides by petty mandarins and
foldiers. The grand mandarin of the place fent to in
form the Ambaffador, that a public breakfaft
. would be prepared at the place allotted for the
refldence of the embaffy, during its flay at
Tong-tchew, on the following morning at
feven o'clock ; to which Lord Macartney and
his whole fuite, including mechanics, foldiers,
and fervants, were invited. Notice of this-
general meffage was confequently given to each
K junk,

( *3° )
J793- junk, and orders were at the fame time iffued
Auguft. to prepare for difembarkation.
Saturday tj. At fix o'clock this morning two palankins
were fent for Lord Macartney and Sir George
Staunton, who, in about an hour after their
arrival, left the junks, and were carried to
their appointed residence, efcorted by a party
of Chinefe foldiers, and an immenfe concourfe
of fpectators.
The breakfaft confifted of a profusion of
ftews and made diShes, meat of all kinds, tea,
wines, boiled eggs, with a great variety of
fruits and elegant confectionary.
A certain number of coolies, or porters, in
fmall boats, were ordered to each junk, to re
move all the articles belonging to the place
already mentioned as prepared for their re
ception. During the greater part of the fore
noon I was employed in taking care that the
proportion of baggage committed to my charge
was conveyed in fafety to the fheds.
At the gale of this inclofure there were two
Chinefe officers, who inspected all cafes and
packages which were brought from the junks :
they firft took their dimensions, of which they
appeared to take a written account, and then
pafled, as it feemed to me, a counterpart pf
their minute on every feparate article ; nor was
a Angle box, package, or parcel, Suffered to
pafs,

( i3i )
pafs, till it had undergone this previous cere
mony ; which was efpecially ordered, as I was
informed, to afcertain to the Emperor the quan
tity of prefents and baggage in poffeffion of the
embaffy. Every exertion was rnade both by us and the
natives to complete the landing of our cargoes
from the junks ; and fo much expedition was
ufed on the occafion, that the whole of the pri
vate baggage, and a great part of the prefents,
were Safely brought on Shore, and placed in the
depot, in the courfe of this day.
The houfe, which had been appropriated by
the Chinefe government for the residence of the
BritiSh Ambaffador at Tong-tchew, is fituated
about three quarters of a mile from the river,
and about one i mile from the city, and Stands
on a riflng ground. It had a neat appearance,
but was fo very low, as to have no claim to
that distinction which it might be expected to
poffefs, when we confider the purpofes to
which it was applied. It rifes no higher in any
part of it than one Story.
The enSrance to this building is a common
fquare gateway, that opens into a neat, clean
court, which was occupied by the foldiers be
longing to the embaffy, as a kind of barracks ;
another court beyond it, and to which there
was an afcent of three Steps, contained feveral
K z fmall

( »3* )
fmall buildings, ' occupied by the Chinefe who
belonged to the houfe ; immediately adjoining
to it, Lord, Macartney's fervants occupied a
Similar fltuation. Oppofite to the fervants
' quarter was a fmall fquare building, which is
ufed as a place of worfhip, and contains only
one room of common dimensions : in the mid
dle of this chamber there was an altar, with
three porcelain figures as large as life placed
upon it ; there were alfo candlefticks on each
Side of it, which were lighted regularly every
morning and evening, and at fuch other times
as perfons come there to pay their devotions.
Before thefe images there is a fmall pot of duft,
in which are inferred a number of long matches,
that are alfo lighted during the times of wor
fhip. When the period of devotion is paft,
the candles are extinguished, and the flame of
the matches blown out, but the matches are
left to moulder away. When this ceremony
is over, an attendant on the altar takes a foft
mallet, with which he Strikes a bell that is
fufpended to it, three times ; the perfons pre
fent then kneel before the images, and bow
down their heads three times to the ground,
with their hands clafped in each other, which
they extend over their heads as they rife ; a
low obeifance is then feen to conclude the
ceremony of the daily worfhip of the Chinefe ;
4 which

( *33 )
which is termed by them Chin-chin-jofh, or »793>
worShip of God. ' ^^
Such is the domeftic mode of worfhip that
prevails throughout the whole empire of China,
as every inhabitant of it, from the meaneft
peafanr- to the Emperor himfelf, has an altar,
and a deity ; the moft wretched habitation is
equally furnifhed in regard to its idols, though,
as may be fuppofed, in proportionate degrees
of form and figure, with the Imperial palace.
Nor are thofe who are confined to the occupa
tions of the water without them ; every kind of
veffel that navigates the fea, or the river, being
provided with its deity and its altar.
The court adjoining to this domeftic chapel
is occupied by the Chinefe, and employed as a
kitchen ; from thence there is a circular en
trance to that part of the building which was
particularly affigned to the Ambaffador and his
fuite. It ftirfounds a very handfome and fpacious
court, which was ufed as a dining apartment
on the occafion ; on one fide of it there was an
elegant platform, raifed on two Steps, with a
beautiful roof, fupported by four gilt pillars ;
and an awning was ftretched over the whole
court to protect it from the heat of the fun.
This place was furnifhed alfo with beautiful
lamps, regularly difperfed all around it : they
K 3 confift

( 134 )
conflft of frames made of box^-wood, lined with
tranfparent fllk. and flowered gauze of various
colours, which, when the lamps are lighted,
add very much to the pleaflng effect of the il
lumination. The two principal Sides of the
court were occupied by the gentlemen of the
fuite, who Slept in two equal divisions in thefe
feparate apartments. Lord Macartney and Sir
George Staunton were each accommodated with
a diftinct and feparate wing of the building.
At two o'clock dinner was ferved up for the
Ambaffador and his company ; it confifted of
about one hundred various diflies, dreffed accor
ding to the cookery of the country: they conflfled
principally of flews, and were ferved in fmall
bafons ; but there were neither table-cloths, or
knives and forks ; and the only method thefe
people have of conveying their meat to the
mouth is by fmall pointed lengths of wood, or
ivory, in the form of pencils. It is abfolutely
neceffary, therefore, that their folid food Should
be cut in fmall pieces. \
During the time of dinner, a great number
of Chinefe, who belonged, as I fuppofe, to the
mandarin, whofe office it was to fuperintend
the arrangements made for the accommodation
of the embaffy, crowded round the table ;
when they not only expreffed their furprife by

( *35 )
by peculiar actions and geftures, but frequently 1793-
burfl into -Shouts of laughter. Auguft.
In order to give all poffible dignity and im- Sunday i&.
portance to the embaffy, a guard of BritiSh fol
diers were ordered to attend on the Ambaffador's
apartments ; but as they were removed from
public view, thefe centinels were placed at the
outer gate, and the entrance of the inner court,
that they might attract the notice of the Chi
nefe, and elevate the confequence of the diplo
matic miffion in the general opinion of the
people of the country ; a circumftance on
which the fuccefs of it was fuppofed, in a great
meafure, to depend.
In the feveral apartments of the building
appropriated to the residence and ufes of the
embaffy, Chinefe fervants were diftributed, to
fupply thofe who were difpofed to call for
drink, with the beverage of the country : fuch
as kie tigau, hot tea ; liang tigau, cold tea ;
with liang fwee, cold water ; kie fwee, hot
water ; pyng fwee, ice water ; and any of thefe
liquors were ready to be brought whenever they
Should be demanded, from an early hour of the
day, till night.
This morning I took the opportunity to vifit
the city of Tong-tchew, with its fuburbs ; and
with no fmall fatigue, and feme trouble^ I tra-
verfed the greatest part of it.
K 4 It

( rS« >'
It 'appears to be built in a fquare form, and
is defended by a very ftrong lofty wall, with a
deep ditcli. on the outfide of it in the moft ac-
ceffible parts : the wall makes a circuit of
about Six miles, is thirty feet high, and fix
broad : it has three gates, which are well forti
fied ; each being defended by ramparts mount
ed with cannon : there is alfo a flrong guard
within them towards the city, in a ftate of re
gular duty. Thefe gates are always Shut at
ten at night, and opened at four in the morn
ing ; the keys of which are always lodged v^ith
the mandarin of the city at night, and returned
to the officer of the guard in the morning ; on
which occafion a report is made of whatever
may have occurred, and fuch -orders are iffued
as circumftances may require.
The houfes of this city are like the greater
part of thofe I have feen in China, and rofe no
higher than one Story : they differ, however, in
fome degree, from the common habitations of
other places which we have paffed, as they are
here almoft universally built of wood ; there
being very few ftone or brick houfes to be feen,
but fuch as are inhabited by the mandarins of
the place.
The exterior appearance of the houfes is very
pleaflng . from the prettinefs of -their decora
tions ; but they are moft wretchedly furnifhed within,

( ^37 )
within, if that term can be applied where there is
very little or no furniture at all. They have
only one apartment behind their Shops, which
rs without floor or pavement, and muft ferve
them for every domeflic ufe and employment.
Before the doors of the Shops, wooden pillars
are erected, from which an awning is fufpended
during the day, to protect not only the paffen
gers, but the Shopkeepers themfelves, from the
rays of the fun : fome of thefe pillars are con-
flderably higher than the houfes before which
they ftand ; and are not only gilt and painted,
but decorated with Streamers, which ferve as
Signs to denote the commodities of the parti-
¦ cular Shops ; the tops of them are frequently
mounted with a wooden figure, which ferves
as a direction to the fpot.
As to variety, either in the form or dimen
sions of the houfes or Shops, there is none; for
an almoft univerfal famenefs prevails in the
ftreets of this extenfive city : they differ, in
deed, in breadth ; and the inhabitants of thole
which are narrow fpread matting from the
tops of the houfes quite acrofs the Street, which
is a very agreeable circumftance in the hot fea
fons : there is alfo, for the convenience di foot
paffengers, a pavement of four feet in breadth
on each Side of every ftreet. GlaSs

( 138 )
Glafs is not any where ufed in China for
windows, and the common fubflitute for it is'a
thin glazed paper, which is patted on the inflde
of a wooden lattice : filk, however, is employ
ed for this purpofe in the houfes of the higher
claffes of the people.
Tong-tchew is a place of great trade, as ap
pears from the vafl number of junks which we
faw lying in the river before it ; and the afto-
niShing number of its inhabitants ; which is
very generally believed, as I was informed by
fome oS the resident merchants, to amount, at
leaft, to half a million of people.
During the Aim mer and autumn months the
heat here is very fultry and oppreffive : the
winter, however, brings inclemency along with
it, as ice of thirty inches thick is preferved here,
in fubterranean caverns, till the flimmer. It is
considered as an article of great luxury among
the people, who mix it with their drink, to
give it a refreshing coolnefs in the hot. feafons
of the year.
In the courfe of my excurfions through the
city, I endeavoured to make myfelf acquainted
with the nature of its municipal government.
Of this important fubject it is not to be fup
pofed that I could learn much : I was, however,
in one way or other, made to understand, that
all civil caufes are determined by a certain
number

( 139 )
number of inferior mandarins expreffly ap- 1793.
pointed to the judicial office ; • but that their ^PC?
decifions are fubject to the review of the chief
mandarin of the place or diftrict, who may
confirm or reverfe them at pleafure : this officer,
and his decrees, are alfo fubject to the Viceroy
of the province, from whom, in all civil caufes,
there is no appeal.
In capital offences, the final determination
refts with the Emperor alone ; though it is
very rare indeed, that a criminal is fentenced to
die : but if fuch a circumftance Ihould happen
in the moft remote corner of the empire, ap
plication muft be made to the Emperor himfelf
to annul, to mitigate, or enforce the fentence.
Executions, however, are very feldom feen in
China. I was very particular and curious in
my. inquiries on this fubject, wherever I had an
opportunity to make them, and not one perfon
that was queftioned on the occafion, and fome
of them were, at leaft, feventy years of age,
had ever feen or known of a capital execution.
Nor are the leffer crimes fo frequent as might
be expected in fuch a populous and commer
cial country; as the moft obnoxious claffes
of them, at leaft, are kept down by the vigour
of the police, and the promptitude of punifh-
ment,s which follows conviction without the
delay of a moment : a regulation which might, in

( HO )
in many cafes, be adopted with the belt effects
by the boafted judicature of Great Britain.
Nor Shall I hefitate to obferve, that whatever
may be the defects or excellencies of the Chi
nefe government, of which I am not altogether
qualified to judge, the people of China feem to
be happy and contented under it, and to enjoy
as much liberty as is confiftent with the beft
arrangement of civilized fociety.
: The palaces of the mandarins are the only
public buildings which I could difcover, or was
informed of, in this extenfive city: they are
built of brick, and appeared to be very Spaci
ous ; but were , more remarkable for extent,
than elegance or grandeur.
I finifhed this curious excurfion in the even
ing, when I was not only very much fatigued
by my walk, but very much haraffed by the
curioSlty of the people. I was Sometimes fur
rounded by twenty or thirty of them, who
preffed fo much upon me. that I was frequently
under the neceffity of taking Shelter in fhops,
till the crowd that perfecuted me was difperfed ;
and, in return for the protection afforded me,
I made fome purchafes of fans and tobacco-
pipes, which were formed with curious neatnefs
and ingenuity.
Mond.y 19. This morning Mr. Barrow, the comptroller,
received the whole of the remaining part of the
v--3- prefents,

{ Hi )
prefents, which were lodged in the depot al
ready defcribed. Lieutenant Parifh of the royal
artillery, with a party of his men, attended
there to examine the ordnance Stores : they alfo
uncafed the guns, and got them mounted on
their carriages ; they confifted of fix new brafs
field pieces, two mortars, and one wall piece,
with a complete artillery apparatus. On the
report of the ftate of the ordnance, &c. being
made to the Ambaffador, he was pleafed to
come to the Sheds, attended by Col. Benfon,
the officers, and other gentlemen, to fee the guns
exercifed ; wheri feveral rounds were fired with
great quicknefs, activity, and exaetnefs. His
Excellency remained there about two hours,,
when he returned to his residence, where the
gentlemen of the erribaffy dined in the fame
manner as on the preceding day.
In the evening the Ambaffador received a
vifit from the attendant mandarin, accompa
nied by the chief mandarin of the city. The
band was ordered on the occafion to play on
the platform, and the Chinefe visitors appeared
to be very much delighted with the European
mufic. This evening, at eight o'clock Mr. Harry
Eades, one of the mechanics attached to the
embaffy, died in confequence of a violent flux,
with which he had been for fome time afflicted.
Mr.

( i4» )
1793; Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, was requefted
Auguft. to order a coffin on the occafion ; and, as thefe
fad receptacles are always ready made in China^
our departed companion was foon placed*
with all poffible decency, in a Situation to re-*
ceive the laft act of refpect which we can pay
to each other.
The coffins of this country are all of the
fame flze, and bear a Stronger refemblance to a
flat-bottomed boat, than to thofe of Europe :
they are very ftrong and heavy, and the lid is
not nailed down, as with us, but faftened with
a cord. About eleven o'clock there began a moft tre
mendous ftorm of thunder, lightning, and rain,
which continued without any intermiffion tilt
four o'clock.
Tuefday 20. This morning the Ambaffador iffued regu
lations for the funeral of Mr. Harry Eades,
which, in order to give the Chinefe a favour
able impreffion even of our funeral folemnities,
was directed to be performed with military ho
nours. All the fervants, mechanics, and muficians,
attached to the embaffy, were defired to be in
readinefs on the occafion : Colonel Bcnfon alfo
iflued orders to the troops to appear with their
fide arms, except a ferjeant and fix privates of
v the royal artillery, who were ordered to be
armed

( H3 )
armed and accoutered for firing over the grave.
As no clergyman accompanied the embaffy,
I was appointed to read the funeral fervice of
the Church of England on this melancholy oc
cafion. At nine o'clock the proceffion began in the
following order :
Detachment of the royal artillery, with arms
reverfed.
The coffin fupported on men's fhoulders.
Two fifes playing a funeral dirge.
The perfons appointed to officiate at the
grave.
The mechanics, fervants, &c. two and two.
The troops then followed, and clofed the
whole.
This proceffion was alfo accompanied by
feveral of the gentlemen belonging to the em
baffy. Thus we proceeded, with all due folemnity,
to the burying-ground, which is fituated about
a quarter of a mile from the Ambaffador's reft
dence ; and where permiflion had been granted
for the interment of our countryman, with a
liberality that would not have been practifed in
fome of the countries of our own enlightened
quarter of the globe. Such a ceremonial, as
may well be imagined, had excited the curio
fity of the city, and we were attended by a
con-

( H4 )
concourfe of fpectators that the moft interesting
and fplendid Spectacles would not affemble in
the cities of Europe.
On our arrival at the place of interment, the
foldiery formed a circle round the grave, with
the firing party Standing on the Side of it.. The
coffin being placed on two planks of woody the
funeral Service was then read, when the body
was committed with the ufual ceremonies to
the earth, and the parties discharged three al
lies over the grave, which, according to a
cuftom of the country that we cannot reconcile
with the general good fenfe of the people, had
no greater depth than was- juft neceffary to
cover the coffin. „
In this burying-ground there was a great
number of marble and Stone monuments with
infcriptions on them. Some of thefe memorials
were gilt, and enriched with various devices of
no ordinary fculpture : the funeral fpot is very
extenfive, but without any enclosure. There
are, indeed, no public places of > burial, but
near large towns and cities ; as, in the country,
every one is buried on the premifes where he
had lived.
When the grave was clofed, and this laft act
of duty performed to the dead, the proceffion
returned in the fame order that has been already
defcribed.
The

( 145 )
The Ambaffador was vifited by feveral man
darins, a mark of refpect which we were dif
pofed to confider as a favourable prognoflica-
tion of fuccefs in the great objects of this ex
traordinary million. His Excellency alfo re
ceived notice that the following day was ap
pointed for the departure of the embaffy to Pe
kin, and that every neceflary preparation was
made for that purpofe.
It is a curious circumftance that the place of
refidence appointed for the embaflV, proved,
after all,, to be the houfe of a timber merchant,
whofe yard was adjoining to it : but the com
munication between them was, on this occa
sion, clofed up by a temporary fixture of deals
that were nailed acrofs it. On making inquiry
concerning the^ truth of what had been fug-
gefted to me, a Chinefe foldier pointed to the
timber yard ; and, ,at the fame time, made me
understand, that the owner of the place fold that
kind of wood which was employed in the build
ing of junks.

CHAP.

( H6 )

CHAP. VIII.
Leave the city of long-tchew. — Ihe road to Pekin'
defcribed. — Arrive at a large town called Kiyeng-
Foo : Halt there to breakfaft. — Prodigious
crowds of people to fee the embaffy pafs. — Arrive
at Pekin : Some account of that city. — Cuftoms
- and manners of the Chinefe. — Leave Pekin. — Ar
rive at the Imperial Palace mmed Yeun.ei-man-
y'eumen..
1793- X HIS morning at two o'clock the general
A^uft. was beat through all the courts of the houfe,
as a Signal for the fuite to prepare for their de
parture. After an hafty breakfaft, the whole
of the embaffy was ready to proceed on their
journey. The foldiers were firft marched off
to covered waggons provided for them ; the
" fervants then followed, and were received into
Similar machines ; the gentlemen of the fuite
next proceeded in light carts drawn by a Angle
horfe. Lord Macartney, Sir George Staunton,
and Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, were conveyed
in palankins, which were each of them borne
by four men.
The vehicles which carried the foldiers and
fervants 'were common hired carts, drawn by
four horSes, unequally coupled together, and
covered

Wednef-

( H7 )
covered with Straw matting. The harnefs, if
it may deferve that name, was made of rope
and cordage. The Single-horfe parts were co-
* vered with blue nankeen, and had doors of lat
tice work lined with the fame, ftuff : the drivers
walked by the fide of therm
At four o'clock this proceffion Was in motion,
which confifted of Sixty carts for the foldiers
and fervants, and twenty for the conveyance
of the gentlemen belonging to the fuite, exclu
sive of carts for the private baggage, and the
coolies, or porters, employed to carry the pre
fents and heavy baggage, which were conveyed
on their Shoulders ; four hundred of whom were
employed on this extraordinary occafion.
About five o'clock We had quitted the City of
Tong-tchew, and entered immediately into a
fine level country of the moft luxuriant fertility,
which, as far as the eye could teach, appeared
to be one immenfe garden.
The road along which We travelled is not
only broad but elegant ; and is a proof of the
labour employed by the Chinefe government to
facilitate the communications between the capi
tal and the principal parts of the kingdom.
The middle of this road confifts of a pavement
of broad flag Stones about twenty feet wide,
and on each flde of it there is a fufficient fpace
to admit of fix carriages to run abreaft. The
L 2 lateral

( i4§ )
J793- lateral parts are laid with gravel ftones, anfct
Auguft. kept in continual repair by troops of labourers,
who arc ftationed on different parts of- the road
for that purpofe.
At feven o'clock the cavalcade flopped at a
large town, whofe name is Kiyeng-Foo. To
call it populous, would be to employ a fuper-
fluous expreffion that is equally appropriate to
the whole kingdom, as every village, towri,
and city ; nay, every river, and all the banks
of it, teem with people. In the country through
which we have paffed the population is im
menfe and univerSal : every mile brought us
to a village, whofe inhabitants would have
crowded our largeft towns ; and the number
of villas Scattered over the country, on each
fide of the road, while they added to its beauty,
were proofs of its wealth. Thofe which we
approached near enough to examine as we paf
fed, were built of wood, and the fronts of many
of them were painted black, and enriched with
gilded ornaments.
The day of our journey from Tong-tchew to
Pekin was, I doubt not, a matter of general
notification, from- the prodigious concourfe of
people who abfolutely covered the road ; and
notwithstanding the utmoft exertions of the
mandarins to keep it clear, the prefture of the
crowd was fometimes fo great, that we were
obliged

( 149 )
obliged. to halt, for at leaft a quarter of an »793-
hour, to prevent the accidents which might Auguft.
otherwife have happened from the paffage of
the carts amidft this continual and innumerable
throng. I cannot but add to the obstacles which
we received from the curiofity of the Chinefe
people, fome fmall degree of mortification at
the kind of imprefflon our appearance feemed
to make on them : for they no fooner obtained
a fight of any of us, thari they univerfally burft
out into loud Shouts of laughter : and I muft
acknowledge, that we did not, at this time,
wear the appearance of people, who were ar
rived in this country, in order to obtafn, by
every means of addrefs andprepoffeffion, thofe
commercial privileges and political distinctions,
which no other nation has had the art or power
to accomplish.
At Kiyeng-Foo, which is about nine miles
from Tong-tchew, the whole embaffy of all
ranks alighted from their respective carriages :
here the inferior department found tables Spread
for their refreshment in an open yard, but co
vered, at the fame time, with great plenty of
cold meats, tea, fruits, &e. while the upper
departments we're ferved with their regale in
fome adjoining rooms of a very miferable ap
pearance. L 3 Before

( 150 )
Before the proceffion re-commenced its pro
grefs, the conducting mandarin, with his ufual
attention, ordered fome Joau, an harfh four
white wine, to be offered to the attendants of
the embaffy to fortify their Stomachs, as a
conflderable time might probably elapfe before
they would obtain any further refreshment : we
were then fummoned to prepare for our depar
ture, when a fce'ne of confufion and disturbance
took place among ourfelves, which, whatever
its real effects might have been, was not calcu
lated at leaft to give any very favourable im-
preffion of the manners and difpofition of the
Englifh nation. In fhort, from the crowd of
people affembled to fee us, the neglect of a
previous arrangement, and diflribution, of the
carts, together with the inconsiderate eagernefs
to fet off among* ourfelves, it was a matter of
no inconfiderable difficulty for the mandarins
to affign the people to their refpective vehi
cles. At eight o'clock we took our leave of the
town of Kiyeng-Foo, which is a very consider
able and extepflve place ; the Streets are broad
and unpaved, and the houfes are built altoge
ther of wood ; at leaft in the part which we
traverfed there were none constructed of any
pther materials. The Shops made a very plea flng

( *5* )
fing appearance, and feemed to be well fur
nifhed with their respective commodities.
Of the country, which occupies the few miles
from this place to Pekin, I have little to fay, as
the crowds of people that furrounded us, either
intercepted the view, or diftracted our atten
tion. At noon we approached the ftihurbs of the
capital of China, and I cannot but feel fome
degree of regret, that no alteration was made
in the ordinary travelling, and Shabby appear
ance, of the embaffy, on fucH an important
occafion. Whatever reafons there might be to.
prevent that difplay, which it poffeffed fuch am
ple provifions to make, I cannot pretend to.
determine, but our, cavalcade had nothing like
the appearance of an embaffy from the firft
nation in Europe, paffing through the moft
populous city in the world.
On entering the fuburbs, we paffed beneath.
feveral very , beautiful triumphal arches, ele
gantly painted, and enriched with various fan-.
ciful ornaments : the upper part of them was
fquare, with a kind of penf-houfe, painted of a
green colour, and heightened with varnifh :
from the inflde of this roof was fufpended the
model of an accommodation junk, admirably
executed, and adorned with ribands and Silken
Streamers. L 4 Thefe

( l& ) -
T793- Thefe fuburbs are very extenflve ;. the houfes
Auguft. are of wood, the greater part of them two Stories
in height, and their fronts painted in various
colours. The Shops are not only commodious
for their respective purpofes, but have a certain
grandeur in their appearance, that is enlivened
by the very pretty manner in which the articles
of the respective magazines are difplayed, to the
view of the public, either to distinguish the
¦ trade, or to tempt the purchafer.
We proceeded gradually through fpacious
ftreets, which ate paved on either fide for the
convenience of foot paffengers. The whole
way was lined with, foldiers, and, indeed,
without fuch a regulation, it would have been
impoffible for the carriages to have paffed
through the immenfe crowd that attended us.
At two o'clock we arrived at the gates of the
grand imperial city of Pekin, with very little
femblance of diplomatic figure or importance :
in Short, for I cannot help repeating the fenti-
ment, the appearance of the Ambaffador's at
tendants, both with refpect to the fhabbinefs
of their drefs, and the vehicles which conveyed
them, bore a greater refemblance to the re-
mov.fl of paupers to their parifhes in England,
tlvn t; t expected dignity of the representative
of a great and powerful monarch. Pekin,

( '53 )
- Pekin, or as the natives pronounce it, 1 itchin,
the metropolis of the Chinefe empire, is fitua
ted in one hundred and Sixteen degrees of eaft
longitude, and between forty and forty-one de
grees of north latitude. It is defended by a wall
that inclofes a fquare fpace of about twelve
leagues in circumference : there is a grand gate
in the center of each angle, and as many leSfer
ones At each corner of the wall : they are
ftrongly arched, and fortified by a fquare build
ing, or toWer, of feven ftories, that fprings
from the top of the gateway ; the fides of which
are Strengthened by a parapet wall, with port
holes for ordnance. The windows of this build
ing are of wood, and painted to imitate the
muzzle of a great gun, which is fo exactly re-
prefented, that the deception is not difeoverable
but on a very near approach : there are nine of
thefe windows to each Story on the front to
wards the fuburbs. Thefe gates are double ;
the firft arch of which is very ftrongly built of
a kind of freeftone, and not of marble, as has
been related by fome writers : the depth of it is
about thirty feet, and in the middle of the en
trance is a very ftrong door of fix inches thick,
and fortified with iron bolts : this archway leads
to a large fqUare which contains the barracks
for foldiers,- confifting of mean wooden houfes
of two Stories : on turning to the left, the fecond
2 gateway

( M4 )
1793" gateway is feen, whofe arch is of the fame di-
A^ft. mentions and appearance as that, already de
fcribed, but without the tower.
At each of the principal gatesthere is a Strong ,
guard of -foldiers, with feveral pieces of ord
nance placed on each fide of the inner entrance.
Thefe gates are opened at the dawn of day, and
Shut at ten o'clock at night, after which hour all
communication with the city from the fuburbs
is impracticable ; nor will they be opened on
any pretence, or occafion whatever, without a
fpeciaV order frorri the principal mandarin of
the city.
The four letter gates are defended by a fipall
fort built on the wall, which is always guarded
by a body of troops.
The wall is about thirty feet high, and ten
in breadth on the top : the foundation is of
Stone, and appears about two feet from the fur
face of the earth : the upper part is of brick,
and gradually diminishes from the bottom
to the top. Whether it is a folid Structure, or
only filled up with mortar or rubbifh, is a cir
cumftance concerning which I could not pro
cure any authentic information.
This wall is defended by outworks and bat
teries at Short distances from each pther ; each
of them being flrengthened by a fmall fort;
but none of the fortifications are garrifoned ex
cept

( 155 )
c'ept thofe which are attached to the gates ; and '793-
though there is a breaft-work of three feet high, ^ut
with port-holes for cannon, which crowns the
whole length of the wall, there is not a Single
gun mounted upon it. On the fide towards
the city, it is, in fome places, quite perpendi
cular ; and in others forms a gentle declivity
from the top to the ground. It is cuftomary
for bodies of foldiers to patrole the wall every
night during the time that the Emperor refides
in the city, which is from October to April,
when his Imperial Majefly nfually goes to a
favourite palace in Tartary. From its perfect
flate of repair and general appearance, I fliould
rather fuppofe it to be of modern erection, and
that many years cannot have paffed away fince
it underwent a complete repair, or was entirely
rebuilt. The diftance from the fouth gate, where we
entered* to the eaft gate through which we
paffed out of the city, comprehends, on the
moft moderate computation, a courfe of ten
miles. The principal Streets are equally Spa
cious and convenient, being one hundred and
forty feet in breadth, and of great length, but
are only paved on each fide for foot paffengers.
The police of the city, however, fpares no
pains to keep the middle part clean, and free
from all kind of nuifance ; there being large
bodies

( 156 )
bodies of fcavengers continually employed for
that purpofe, who are affifted, as well as con
trolled, in their duty by foldiers Stationed in.
every diftrict, to enforce a, due obfervance of
the laws that have been enacted, and the regu
lations that have been framed, for preferYing
civil order among the people, and maintaining
the municipal ceconomies of this immenfe city.
I obferved, as we paffed along, a great number
of men who were Sprinkling the flreets with
water, in order to lay the dull, which, in dry
weather, would not only be troublefome to
paffengers, but very obnoxious alfo to the Shops ;
whofe commodities could not be expofed to
view without injury, were it not for this bene
ficial and neceffary precaution.
Though the houfes at Pekin are low and
mean, when considered with refpect to Size and
domeftic accommodation, their exterior appear
ance is handfome and elegant, as the Chinefe
take a great pride in beautifying the fronts of
their Shops and dwellings : the upper part of
the former is ornamented with a profusion of
golden characters ; and on the roofs of the latter
are frequent galleries rich in painting and other
decoration ; where numerous parties of women
are feen to amufe themfelves according to the
fafhion of the country. The pillars which are
erected before the doors of the Shops, are gilded and

( *57 )
and painted; having a flag fixed at the top,
whofe characters fpecify the name and bufinefs
of the owner : tables are alfo Spread with com
modities, and lines attached to thefe pillars are
hung with them.
I obferved a great number of butchers Shops,
where the mode of cutting up meat refembles
our own ; nor can the markets of London boaft
a better fupply of flefh than is to be found in
Pekin. My curiofity induced me to inquire
the prices of their meat, and on my entering
the Shop, I faw on a flail before it an earthen
Stove, with a gridiron placed upon it; and on
my employing a variety of Signs to obtain the
information I wanted, the butcher inflantly be
gan to cut off fmall thin flices of meat, about
the flze of a crown piece, and broiled as'faft as
I could eat.them. I took about a dozen of thefe
flices, which might altogether weigh feven or
eight ounces ; and when I paid him, which I
did by giving him a String of caxee, or fmall
coin, he pulled off, as I fuppofe, the amount of
his demand, which was one conderon, or ten
Caxee, the only current money in the empire, I
faw numbers of people in other butchers Shops,
as I paffed along, regaling themfelves with beef
and mutton in the fame manner.
The houfes, appropriated to the fale of por
celain utenfils and ornaments, are peculiarly
attractive,

Auguft

( 158 )
1793. attractive, having a difplay of bfoad Shelves*
ranged above each other, in the front of their
Shops, on which they difpofe the moft beautir
ful fpecimens of their trade in a manner full of
fancy and effect.
Befides the variety of trades which are ftation^
ary in this great city, there are many thoufands
of its inhabitants who cry their goods about, as
we Ice in our own metropolis. They generally
have a bamboo placed acrofs their Shoulders,
and a bafket at each end of it, in which they
carry fifh, vegetables, eggs, and other limilar'
articles. There are alfo great nqmbers of
hawkers and pedlars, who go about with bags
Strapped on their Shoulders like a knapfack,
which contain various kinds of fluff goods* the
folds of which are expofed to view. In felling
thefe fluffs, they ufe the cubit meafure of fix-
teen inches. Barbers are alfo feen running about
the ftreets in great plenty, with every instrument
known in this country for Shaving the head and
cleanfing the ears : they carry with them for
this purpofe a portable chair, a portable Stove,
and a fmall veflel of water, and whoever willies
to undergo either of thefe operations, Sits down
in the Street, when the operator performs his
pfficc. To distinguish their profeflion, they
carry a pair of large Steel tweezers, which they
open with their fingers, and let them clofe

again

( 159 )
again with fome degree of violence, which pro
duces a Shrill found that is heard at -a conflder
able diftance ; and fuch is their mode of feeking
employment. That this trade is very profitable
in China no one can doubt ; becaufe every man
muft be* Shaved on a part of the head where it
is impoflible to Shave himfelf.
In feveral of the ftreets I faw perfons engaged
in felling off goods by auction : the auctioneer
Stood on a platform furrounded with the various
articles he had to fell : he delivered himfelf in
a loud and bawling manner; while the Smiling
countenances of the audience, which was the
only language I could interpret, feemed to ex-
prefs the entertainment they received from his
harangue. At each end of the principal Streets, for there
are no Squares in Pekin, there is a large gate
way fancifully painted, with an handfome roof
coloured and varnifhed ; beneath which the
name of the ftreet is written in golden charac
ters : thefe arches terminate the nominal ftreet,
or otherwife there would be Streets in fome parts
of the city of at leaft five miles in length,
which are formed into feveral divisions by thefe
gateways. They are very handfome, as well as
central objects, and are railed in on each fide
from the foot pavement. The

(( 160 )
The narrow flreets are enclofed at each end
with fmall lattice gates, which are always Shut
during the night ; but all the conflderable Streets
are guarded both night and dav by foldiers, who
wear fwords by their Side's, and Carry long whips
in their hands} to clear the ftreets of any in- ,
convenient throng of people, and to chaftife
fuch as are refractory into decorum or good be
haviour. -Notwithstanding the VaSt extent of this place*
there is little or no variety in their houfes, as I
have before obferved* but in the colours with
which they are painted : they are, in reality,
nothing better than temporary booths, erected
for exterior Shew, and without any view to
ftrength or durability. It is very rare, indeed,
to fee an houfe of more than one ftory, except
Such as belong 16 mandarins ; and even thofe
are covered, as it were, by the walls which rife
above every houfe or building in Pekin, except
a lofty pagoda, and an imperial palace.
There are no carriages Standing in the ftreets
for the convenience of its inhabitants, like our
hackney coaches in London : the higher claffes
, of people keep palankins ; and others of lefs
distinction have covered carts drawn by a horfe
or mule.
The opinion, that the Chinefe women are ex
cluded from the view of Strangers, has very
little,

( i6i )
little, if any foundation, as among the immenfe Z2?tj
crowd affembled to fee the cavalcade of the Auguft.
Englifh embaffy, one fourth of the whole at
leaft were women ; a far greater proportion
of that fex than is to be feen in any concourfe
of people whom curiofity affembles in our own
country : and if the idea. is founded in truth,
that curiofity is a peculiar characteristic of the
female difpofition in Europe, I Shall prefume to
fay that, from the eagernefs which we obferved
in the looks of the Chinefe women as we paffed
by them, the quality which has juft been men
tioned is equally prevalent among the fair ones
of Afia.
The women we faw on our paffage through
Pekin poffeffed, in general, great delicacy of
feature, and fine natural complexions ; with
which, however, they are not content, and
therefore whiten their faces with cofmetics :
they likewife employ vermilion, but in a man
ner wholly different from the application of
rouge among European ladies ; they mark the
middle of their lips with a Stripe of its deepeft
colour, which, without pretending to reafon
upon it, certainly heightens the effect of their
features. Their eyes are very fmall, but pow
erfully brilliant, and their arms extremely long
and flender. The only difference between the
women of Pekin, and thofe we had already
M feen,

( i6» )
feen, as it appeared to us, was, that the former
wear a Sharp peak of black velvet or filk, which
is ornamented with ftones, and defcends from
the forehead almoft between the eyes ; and that
their feet, free from the bandages which have
already been mentioned, are fuffered to attain
their natural growth.
When we had paffed through the eafterrt
gate of the city, ferne confuflon having arifeit
among the baggage carts, the whole proceffion-
was obliged to halt ; I, therefore, took the op
portunity of eafing my limbs, which were very
much cramped by the inconvenience of the
machine, and perceiving a number of women ,
in the Crowd that furrounded us, I ventured to
approach them; and, addrefling them with the
Chinefe word Chou-au, (or beautiful) they ap
peared to be extremely diverted, and gathering
roui;d me, but with an air of great modefty and
politeneft, they examined the make and form
of my clothes, as well as the texture of the
materials of which they were compofed. When
She carts began to move off, I took leave of
thefe obliging females by a g-:i:.le Shake of the
hind, which ihey tendered to me with the moft
graceful affability ; nor did the men, who were
prefent, appear to be at all diifatisfled with my
conduit : on the contrary, they expreffed, as
far as I could judge, very great fatisfaction at
this

(j I-63 );¦
this public attention- 1 paid to their ladies. It 1793-
appears, therefore, that in, this city, the women. Augufti
are not divcfied of a< reafonable portion- of their
liberty, and, confequently, that the jealoufy,
attributed fo univerfallv to the' Chinefe men, is
not a predominant quality, at leaft, in the ca
pital of the empire.
Among other objects which we faw in our
way, and did not fail" to attract our notice, was
a funeral proceffion, which proved to be a very
Striking and folemn Spectacle : the coffin was
covered by a canopy decorated with curtains of
fatin, enriched with gold and flowers, and
hung with efcutcheons : it was placed on a large
bier or platform, and carried by at leaft fifty or
Sixty men, who fupported it on their Shoulders
with long bamboos crofting "each other, and-
marched eight abreaft with flow and folemn Step.
A band of mufic immediately followed, playing
a kind of dirge, which was not without a mix
ture of pleating tones: the relations and friends
of the deceafed perfon then followed, arrayed in
black and white dreffes.
Having paSfed through. the eaftern fuburbs of
the, city, we entered on a rich and beautiful
country, when a Short ftage of about four miles
bjought us to one of the Emperor's palaces
named Yeumen-manyeumen, where we arrived
about five o'clock in the afternoon, oppreSied
\ ' -, Ma with

( 1 64 )
*793« with fatigue from the extreme heat of the day,
Auguft. and the various impediments which obftructed
our paffage, arifing from the immenfe crowds
of people that may be Said to have filled up the
whole way from Tong-tchew to this place, a
journey of thirty miles.
In a Short time after our arrival, we received;
a very fcanty and indifferent refreshment; when
the whole fuite retired to fleepoff the fatigue of
the day,

CHAP.

C 165 )

CHAP. iX* I
Defcription of the palace of Yeumen-manyeunten.—^
Difagreeable circumftances belonging to it. — Dif-
putes with the natives who guarded it. — Lord
Macartney applies for a change of fituation. — The
embaffy removes to Pekin. — Defcription of a pa
goda. — Arrive, at the palace appointed for the re
ftdence of the - embaffy .—Defcription of it. — The
arrangements made in it. — Several mandarins vifit
the Ambaffador,
X. HE whole of this morning was employed *793-
in removing the baggage, &c. belonging to the Au.ufe
embaffy, from the outer gateway* where it had JJ?^
been depofited, to the different apartments^ap-
pointed for the gentlemen who compofed it.
The palace Of Yeumen^manyeumeh is irt a
Very low fituation, about a quarter of a mile
from a village of the fame name, and is a very
mean* inconvenient building of no more .than
one Story.
The entrance to this palace* if it may be faid
to deferve that name* confifts of a very ordinary
ftone gateway, guarded by foldiers ; and be
yond it is a kind of parade* where the baggage
M 3 was

( 1 56 )
was placed on its being taken out of the carts
that had brought it hither. In the center of this
parade there is a fmall lodge, where feveral
mandarins of an inferior order were in waiting ;
and which forms an entrance to the paffage that
leads to the body of the palace.
The pofltion of this palace is not only low,
but in a fwampy hollow, and between two
ponds of Stagnant water, whofe putrid exha
lations cannot add to the comfort Of its un
wholefome fituation ; ' and fome apartments
which Were on the 'batiks of one of thefe ponds,
were occupied as barracks by the BritiSh foldiers.
To the weft of this building there is another
gate, but conftructcd of wood, - which leads to
another apartment of the, palace, where I ob
ferved a considerable number of Chinefe fol
diers ; but, on my approach to take a view of -
them, ^they Suddenly retired, and locked the
door againft me. Indeed, the native jealoufy
of thefe people respecting. Strangers feemed to
be awakened in a very great degree, when they
thought it neceffary to watch all our actions
with fuch a minute and •fcrutinifing. attention.
The palace, for I muft by wray of distinction
"continue to give it thatname, though unworthy
the residence of the reprefentative of a great
monarch, is -.divided into two fquare courts,
containing a quadrangular range Pf apartments, which

( 167 )
which were not only destitute of elegance, but J793-
in a wretched .flate of repair : a paved footway Auguft.
Skirts their walls, and is covered with a wooden • •
roof painted arid varnifhed. Before the prin
cipal doors of the building, and in the midft of
a large court, there are a few trees of no very
peculiar figure or beauty ; but the ground itfelf
is covered with a kind of gravel. There are
fome fmall fields of grafs belonging to the palace,
which wear an appearance of neglect, that we
Should not have expected to find in a country
where we had not yet feen an uncultivated
fpot. The windows of the .apartments confifted of-
lattice work covered with a glazed and painted
paper. In the hot feafons the doors are opened
during the day, and their place .Supplied by
cooling blinds made of bamboo, fancifully co
loured, and wrought as fine and clofe as, a,
weaver's reed : they certainly ferved to refrefh,
the rooms, where they were placed, and afforded,
forae degree of coolnefs to alleviate the he<nt of
the day ; but at night the doors were restored,
to their office, and thefe blinds, were rolled up,
and fattened to the wall over them.
The wi ole range of apartments contained
no other furniture than few very common ta-,
bles and chairs ; not a bed or bedftead was to be
feen in the whole place ; it was, therefore, a.
M 4 fortunate

( t68 )
t'793- fortunate circumftance for us that we provi*
a^X dently brought our cots and hammocks from on
board the fhips, or we fhould not have flept in
a bed, at leaft,. during our residence in China.
The natives have no fuch comfortable article of
furniture in their houfes, but fleep on a kind of
mattrefs, and cover themfelves with a eufhion
Stuffed and quilted with cotton. They pull Off
a very fmall part of their drefs when they go to
reft, and when the weather proves cold, they
increafe the number of thefe cufhions as the
circumftances of the feafon may require. In the
place of bedfteads they ufe a large wooden
bench, which is raifed about two feet frpm the
ground, and covered with a kind of elaftic baf-
ket work made of bamboos, on which feven or
eight perfons may fpread their bedding. I have
alfo feen fome of them formed of planks, and
covered with carpets.
This habitation had a moft ungracious and
deferted appearance; and, from the ftate in
which we found it, a long time muft have
elapfed Since it was inhabited by any thing but
centipes, feorpions, and mofquitos, which in
fested it in every part. It is furrounded by a
very high and Strong wall of Stone, which ex
cluded every external object ; nor was any per
fon belonging to the embaffy permitted, on any
pretence whatever, to pafs its boundaries,. man
darins

( 1*9 )
darins and foldiers being ftationed at every ave- 1793.
nue to keep us» within the precincts of this X^uit.
miferable abode *• fo that we were in reality in
a ftate of honourable, imprifonment, without
any other confolation for the lofs of our liberty,
but that we were fupplied with our daily pro
vifions at the expenfe of the Emperor.
The Ambaffador's apartments were guarded
both night and day by BritiSh centinels ; and,
, to fupport the dignity of his great diplomatic
-character, his Excellency required that a table
Should be, in future, furnifhed for himfelf and
Sir George and Mr. wStaunton, distinct from
the gentlemen of,his fuite. This requisition
ibund a ready compliance, and this day he
dined in his own. apartment, while the upper
ranks of thofe who attended on the embaffy,
had a table prepared for them in one of the
courts, and beneath the Shade of a tree.
The place where the prefents were depoflted Friday 23,
Was fo expofed to the fun, that it was appre
hended fome of them would receive considerable
injury from their unfavourable fituation ; a tem
porary flied was therefore immediately erected,
to which they were fpeedily removed.
Lord Macartney being very much diffatisfied
with his fituation, made a ferious requisition
for the appointment of a residence more fuited
to the character with which he was invefled, as

( *7° )
as Well as to the convenience and proper ac
commodation of the embaffy. To obtain this
object, Mr. Plumb, his Excellency's interpre
ter, made feveral vifits to Pekin ; little, there
fore, occurred worthy of a recital during the
remainder of our flay in this uncomfortable
abode. It continued, however, till the twenty -
feventh day of this month, which was .ap
pointed for the Ambaffadors departure for
Pekin ; .a more commodious residence having
been allotted for the embaffy, in confequence
of Mr. Plumb's .negotiation with the Chinefe
government on the occafion.
This interval was not paffed by any of the
gentlemen of the fuite, or the inferior attendants,
with Satisfaction or patience ; and Col. Benfon-
was fo hurt and mortified at being denied the
liberty of palling the walls of the palace, that
he made an attempt to gratify his inclinations,.
which produced, a very unpleafant affray ; when
be was not only forced back from his defign,
but threatened with very illiberal treatment
from the Chinefe who were on duty at the
gates. Several other disputes of a Similar nature
took place between the fuite and the natives
who guarded the palace. It was, without
doubt, a very hunlilialing circumftance for
Englishmen, .attending alfo a^ they were upon
,2 • a miffion,

'( I7I )
a rriiffion, that by the law -of nations pofleffes
the moft enlarged and univerfkl privileges, to
be treated in a -manner fo ill-fuited to their
individual, as well as political character : at
the fame itime it would, perhaps, have been
more diftreet to have Spared thofe menaces
which were continually expreffed againft perfons
charged with an official duty, and adtin-g un
der the direction of their fuperiors ; and to
have fubmitted with patience to' thofe regula
tions, which, however unpleafant, were fuch
as were adopted by, and might be the ufage
of, that government, -whofe partial favour and
friendfhip it was the intereft, and, therefore,
the duty of the BritiSh embaffy, by insinuating
addrefs and political, manoeuvre, to 'obtain and
eflablifh. The -pleafure (that was this day 'felt by the Saturdays
whole of the Suite of every denomination, is
not eafily defcribed, when orders were received
to prepare for quitting this horridplace on the
Monday following.
This and the fucceeding day were employed Sunday 25-
in removing the greater part of the baggage and
prefents, which was accomplished, as it had
: hitherto been, by the coolies, or porters.
The chandeliers, mathematical apparatus,
together with the clocks and time- pieces, were
left at the palace of Yeumen-manyeumen, as
fuch

( *7* 5
*?93. fuch frequent removals might rnaterially injpfe*
Auguft. if not altogether Spoil thofe pieces of mecha-
nifm, the wonders of whofe operations muft
depend upon the delicacy of their" movements^
Monday t6.- At ten o'clock in the morning Angle horfe
carts were provided for the whole train of the
embaffy. The foldiers, mechanics, and fer
vants, were lodged two in a cart ; and each of
the gentlemen had a cart to himfelf; but the
1 Ambaffador, with his fecretary and interpre
ter, were, as before, accommodated with pa
lankins. The bufinefs of our fetting off was* as it had
hitherto been, a fcene of confufion and dif-
orrler ; but by eleven o'clock, we had, to our
extreme fatisfaction, bid adieu to our late un
comfortable residence. We foon paffed through
the village from whence the palace appears to*
derive its name, amidfl a vaSt crowd of fpec
tators, and, at one o'clock, arrived at the
north gate of the city of Pekin ; which is the
counterpart of that we have already defcribed.
In our progrefs through the flreets we paffed as
pagoda, which is the firft we had feen in China.
In our voyage up the river, • or in our journey
from Tong-tchew to Pekin, we had not feen
one of thefe buildings, which are, in a great
meafure, peculiar to this part of the eaft, till
we arrived at this city : it is fituated in the
4 middle

( 173 )
middle of a very pretty garden adjoining to a 1793.
mandarin's palace. August,
This pagoda is a fquare Structure, built of
ftone, and diminishes gradually from the bot
tom, till it terminates in a fpire. It. had only
one gallery, which encircled , it near the top,
and was guarded by a rail ; a curtain of red
filk, at this time, hung from a projecting ca
nopy, and gave this part of the building, when
feen at a diftance, the appearance of an um
brella. It was feven ftories in height, and was
without any kind of exterior ornament, but
that which I have defcribed.
As our return to Pekin was not only fudden
but unexpected, our re-entry was not particu
larly interrupted by the public curiofity, and, at
half paft two in the afternoon, we arrived,
without having met with any material impedi
ments, at the princely palace which had been
appointed for the future refldence of the em
baffy. It is the property of John Tuck, a
name generally given by Englishmen, but why,
or wherefore, I cannot tell, to the Viceroy of
Canton, who was now here as a ftate prifoner,
, for fome embezzlement of the public treafures,
or other mifdemeanors respecting his govern
ment there.
This palace is built of a grey brick, and is
extremely Spacious, containing twelve large smd

( 174 J;
**793J- and fix fmall courts. The bricks are cemented-
Aug«ftt with fuch curious care, that the feams- of mortal"
between them are as fmall as a thread, and
placed with, fuch peculiar uniformity, that a
minute examination is neceffary to convince
the Spectator that it is-not the work of a painter,.
rather than thast of a bricklayer, and that the
pencil has not been employed to produce the
effect inflead of the trowel. Thefe bricks have
the finoothnefs of marble, are Sixteen inches in
length, eight inches broad, and two apd a halfl
in* thicknefs.
The whole range of buildings, except two
dftftinct parts, which were inhabited by the
Ambaffador and' Sir George Staunton, occupy
bat one, though a very lofty Story. The courts
are Spacious' and regular Squares, and paved
with large- flat ftones. Before the building, in-
each of thefe fquares, there is a raifed terrace
of about three feet, to which there are regular
flights of Steps in the eeater of each angle,
and, of courfe, corresponding with each other.
Over thefe terraces there is a projecting roof,
which extends the breadth of them, and is Sup
ported by light pillars of wood, ranged at equal
distances, and connecled by a railing of fan
ciful contrivance. The whole is gilt and painted
with much pretfinefs, as to pattern and colour ;
and forms a moft elegant piazza, that not only
adds

( 175 )
adds to the grandeur, but, which is a better
thing, fo the convenience of this fupcrb man
sion. Here I flrfl obferved the fuperiority of the
Chinefe in the art of houfe painting,, to which
they give a glofs equal to japan, that not only
preferves the colours from fading, but never
fuffers any injury itfelf from the expofition of
air, fun, or rain. I at firft considered this
effect to have been produced by varnifh ; but
I afterwards, difeovered that it proceeded from
certain ingredients with which the colours are
originally mixed, and not from any fecond
Operation. The apartments are very commodious and of
large dimensions ; fome of them were hung
with a gliftening paper of a pattern, both as
to colour and beauty, far fuperior to any I had
ever feen in Europe ; others were eurioufly
painted and enriched with gilding. Thofe oc
cupied by Lord Macartney were numerous and'
elegant, and contained a private theatre. The
latter is of a fquare form, with a painted gal
lery, which runs entirely round it, for the fpec
tators ; the ftage is raifed from the floor about
three feet, and has the appearance of a large
platform ; it is guarded by a wooden railing,
.and has a paffage of eight feet wide all round
it ; behind the Stage is a fuit of rooms for the
con-

Auguft.

( *76 )
1793. convenience of the actors, who drefs in them,
or retire thither to make any neceffary tranf-
formation in their characters during the per
formance. The building is very lofty, and the
roof elegantly painted. The apartments of Sir
George Staunton were alfo very handfome and
convenient. The whole fuite were likewise ac
commodated in a manner that gave them the
moft entire fatisfaction.
The windows are covered with glazed paper,
and the doors of the principal rooms conflft of
gilded frame-work, which is fitted up with fine
filk gauze, inftead of glafs. The frames, both
of the doors and windows, are richly gilt :
and, in the warm feafons, the former being
always kept open, a curtain, if it may be fo
called, of painted fret- work, made of bamboo,
fupplies their place, as I have already obferved
in a former defcription.
In feveral courts of the palace there are arti
ficial rocks and ruins of no mean contrivance,
which, though not very congenial to their
fituation, were formed with considerable Skill,
and were, in themfelves, very happy imitations
of thofe objects they were defigned to reprefent.
To thefe may be added, the triumphal arches,
which .arife, with all their fanciful devices, in
various parts of the building. This;

( '77 5 ^
This noblfe manflon is of great extent, and
calculated to aflord every kind of princely ac
commodation ; but* with all its rriagnificence,
as to the number of the apartrrients, and the
general difplay of the whole, its only furniture
was fome chairs and tables, and a few fmall
platforms covered with carpets and "bamboo
matting. Beneath the floor* in each of the principal
apartments, is a Stove, or furnace of brick
work, with a circular tube that is conducted
round the room where it Stands, which is fuffi
cient alfo to warm the apartmetit above it.
Thefe Stoves are, in cold weather* coPftantly
fupplied with charcoal, and communicate their
heat in the manner of hot-houfes in England^
The houfes here have no chimnies that I could
difcover, and, of courfe* no other means of ad
ministering heat can be employed but thofe
which have juft been mentioned.
At four o'clock in the afternoon, the whole
flute fat down to dinner, which confifted, as
ufual, of a great variety of Stews, and hafhesj
Indeed, a joint of meat is feldorn or ever feen*
but on feftival days ; of which I Shall Speak
more herea fieri His Excellency and Sir George
Staunton dined together. _, But with all the Su
periority of accommodation we enjoyed here*
we continued to be guarded with the fame
N fufpi-

( 178 )
fufpicious vigilance as in our late refidencff.
On no pretence whatever was any one permit
ted to pafs the gates, and every accefflble part
of the place was under the active care of mili
tary power.
This palace, according- to the reports of the
country, was erected by the Viceroy of Canton,
from the fruits of his exactions during his go
vernment there, and particularly on the Ship-
ping of the Englifh nation at that port ; for
> which acts of injustice and oppreffion he was,
as I have before mentioned, at this time, a pri
soner at Pekin. The money expended on this
immenfe building amounted to ninety-feven
thoufand pounds Sterling. A moft enormous
fum in a country where the materials for build
ing, and the labour which puts them together,
are to be obtained at fo cheap a rate.
Tuefday 1-7. This day was principally occupied in arrang
ing the various apartments for the convenience
of the gentlemen, &c. to whom they were allot
ted, as well as in providing fuitable places for
the reception of the heavy baggage.
The cloths and bale goods, with that part of
the more valuable prefents which were of the
flnalleft compafs, were diftributed between1 the.
apartments of Lord Macartney and Sir George
Staunton : the remainder was removed to feve
ral large chambers, which formed a large and
com-

( i7? )
fcommodioUs magazine 'for their reception.
The fix pieces of fmall ordnance and two mor
tars were placed in the inner court, with all
their appendages, and mounted on their car
riages, in froiit of the AmbaSfador's apart
ments. Thefe arrangernents being made in the moft
proper and convenient manner which our Situ
ation would admit, it remained for us to wait
with patience, till his Imperial Majefty's plea-
fure Should be known, whether the embafly
was to proceed to Tartary, or to be cooped, up
in its prefent abode till the ufual feafon of his
Majefty's return to the capital of his empire.
To obtain this intelligence fo important to us,
a mandarin had been dispatched, on our arrival
at Tong-tchew, to the Emperor's fummer resi
dence in Tartary, and we were in continual ex
pectation of the return of this meffenger.
Iri the courfe of this day, the BritiSh Am
baffador was vifited by a company of manda
rins, among whom were feveral perforis, natives
of France, who had been of the order of jefuits ;
but being prohibited from promulgating their
doctrines in this country, had afiumed its drefs
and manners, arid, on account of their learn
ing, had been elevated to the dignity of man
darins. Thefe French gentlemen, who were,
as may be very readily conceived, well ac-
N 2 quainted

( i8o )
^793j quainted with the .interests of the country in
Ataguft. which they were now naturalized, encouraged
Lord Macartney to hope for the moft fatisfac-
tory and beneficial iffue of the embaffy which
he conducted.

CHAP-

( i8x )

CHAP. X.
Lord Macartney receives notice, that it is the Em
peror s pleafyre to receive the embaffy at the im
perial reftdence in Tartary. -—The perfons feletted
to attend the Ambaffador in his progrefs thither.
— The particular occupations affigned to thofe who
w~ere left at Pekin. — Arrangements for the. jour
ney into Tartary. — Leave Pekin; circumftances
of the journey.
X HE Ambaffador received a vifit this morn- *793*
ing from the mandarin Van-Tadge-In, who Auguft.
informed his Excellency, that the meffenger day "!,"
who had been fent to know his Imperial Ma
jefty's pleafure respecting the "BritiSh embaffy,
was returned; and that the Emperor defired
the Ambaffador to proceed to Tartary, where
he wiShed to fee him, and to receive his cre
dentials. This morning the final arrangements were Ttmrf&ysj
made respecting that part of the fuite who were
to accompany the embaffy into Tartary. They
confifted of
Sir George Staunton,
Mr. Staunton, N 3 Lieute- ,

*793-
Auguft.

( 182 )
Lieu tenant- Colonel Benfon,
Captain. Mackintosh, of the Hindoftan,
Lieutenant Parifh,
Lieutenant Crewe,
Mr. Winder,
Doctor Gillan,
Mr. Plumb, the interpreter,
Mr. Baring, and
Mr. Huttner.
Mr. Maxwell remained at Pekin, with three
fervants, in order to fettle the houfehPld of the
Ambaffador, as, on his return from Tartary, it
was intended that his establishment and ap
pearance Should be, in every refpecl, fuited to
the character and dignity of the fovereign whofe
reprefentative he was1.
Doctor Scott was alfo left, in order to take
pare of feveral of the foldiers and fervapts, who
Were, at this time, very much afflicted with the
bloody flux.
' Mr. Hickey and Mr. Alexander were to be
employed iri preparing the portraits of their Bri
tannic Majeflies, which, with the flate canopy,
were to be the appropriate furniture of -the pre-
fence chamber of the AmbaStador.
Doctor Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow were to
regulate the prefents that had been left at the
palace of Yeumen-manyeumen, and to put
them

..<*¦ ¦¦¦%
\ 183 )
them in a ftate to be prefented to the Emperor,
on the Ambaffador's return to Pekin.
The guards, muficians, and fervants received
orders to hold themfelves in readinefs, to fet out
on Monday morning, with no other baggage
but their bedding, and fuch neceffaries as were
indifpenfable on the occafion.
The gentlemen of the fuite were likewife re
quested to content themfelves with the uniform
of the embaffy, a common fuit of cloaths, and
fuch other articles as they might judge to be
abfolutely neceffary for their own cornfort, and
the formality of the occafion.
Mr. Maxwell received orders to diftribute
¦ to each of the muficians and fervants, a fuit of
tlie ftate liveries, in order that the attendants
might appear in an uniform, which would add
to the dignity and fplendor of the Ambaffador's
entrance into Jehol.
The carpenters were employed this morning Friday 3a,
in unpacking an old travelling chaife belong-^
ing to Sir George Staunton, in which Lord
Macartney propofed to travel to Jehol. This
carriage generally attracted the notice of the
Chinefe, who flocked about it to fee the nature
of its construction, and the materials of which
it was formed ; thefe they examined with a
very Singular curiofity ; and fome of them were
fo anxious to understand all its parts, that they ,
N 4 made

( 184 )
made various drawings of it. But fo familiar
are the eyes of thefe' people to the glare and
glitter of colours and gilding, that, however they
might admire the mechanifm and contrivance of
the carriage, they did not hefitate to exprefs
their difapprobation of its exterior appearance ;
which, I muft own, did not poffefs any very
uncommon degree of attraction. , ,
At noon Mr. T.umb came (to inform the
fuite, on the rait of Van-Tadge-In, the at
tendant mandarin, that fuch as chofe to travel
pn horfeback, were to' give in their names, that
horfes might be prepared for them ; and thofe
who chofe the conveyance by carts, Should be
provided accordingly.
After thefe travelling arrangements were fet
tled, the muficians* fervants, &o. attended at
Mr. Maxwell's apartment, to receive the
cloaths in which they were to make their pub:
lie appearance at Jehol. A large cheft was
produced on the occafion full of cloaths : they
were of green cloth, laced with gold ; but their
appearance awakened a flifpicion that they had
already been frequently worn, and on tickets,
fewed to the linings, were written the names of
their former wearers ;— as many of thefe tickets
appeared, on examining them, to be the vifit-
ing cards of Monfieur de la Luzerne, the late
French .Ambaffador, it is more than probable,

( 185 )
that they had been made up for fome gala, or
fete, given by that minifter. But whether they
were of diplomatic origin, or had belonged to
the theatres, is of no confequence, they were
never intended for actual fervice, being made
only for a few temporary occafions, whatever
they might be. With thefe habiliments, how^-
ever, fuch as they were, every man fitted him
felf, as well as he could, with coats and waist
coats ; but of fmall-cloaths, there were not more
in the whole package than were fufficient for the
accommodation of fix perfons. The Chinefe
may not be fuppofed to be capable of distin
guishing on the propriety of our figure, in thefe
jll-fuited uniforms ; but we certainly appeared
in a very Strong point of ridicule to each other.
The two couriers were furnifhed with beaver
helmets, but not an hat was distributed to ac
company thefe curious liveries ;. which, after all,
the fervants were ordered not to* put on fill the
.day when they were to add fo much eclat to the
entry of the embaffy into Jehol.
When the chaife was put in complete order
for the journey, a difficulty arofe, for which, as
it was not forefeen, no provision had been
made ; and this was no lefs than' to get a
couple of poftillions : at length, however, a
corporal of infantry, who had once been a
poll- boy, offered his fervice, and a light -horfe- man

( t86 )
1 793- man was ordered to affift him in conducting the
Auguft. carriage. "
Saturday 3 r. This tPorning ftich of the prefents and bag
gage as were intended to be forwarded to Tar
tary, were fent off : fome of them were carried
by mules, others in carts; but the more valuable
articles, and thofe of delicate fabric, and curi
ous construction, were borne by men.
This important bufinefs being dispatched, a
\ great number of horSes were brought to the pa
lace, when each of the gentlemen, and the other
perfons of the fuite who propofed fo ride, made
choice of his horfe; and the animals thus fe-
"lected for the fervice of the approaching jour-
pey, were then delivered to thofe perfons whofe
office it was to take proper care of them till the ,
time of our departure.
The poftillions were permitted to exercife the
horfes in the chaife for an hour, through the
flreets of Pekin. They were guarded both by
niandarins and foldiers; and, indeed, Such were
the crowds which -affembled to fee this extraor
dinary Spectacle, that fome kind of authority
and exertion was neceffary to give the drivers an
opportunity of Shewing their Skill, and exhibits
ing the equipage and its apparatus to advantage.
The corporal being alfo furnifhed on the occa
sion with the jacket, helmet, &c. of the light
horfe, the poflillions not only made an uni
form, but a very pretty appearance. The

( i«7 )
The Ambaffador received a vifit from feveral
mandarins; when the band played on the flage
pf the theatre for their entertainment.
Lieut. Parifh exercifed his men in the ordr
nance evolutions, to keep them in practice, as
it was thought very probable that, on prefent-
ing the artillery to the Emperor, he might defire
to fee an exhibition of European tactics.
As it was ordered that the embaffy Should fet September.
J Sunday I.
put to-morrow morning at1 two o'clock, fome
of the baggage, to prevent as much as poffible
the confufion which had been hitherto experi
enced, was fent forward this evening.
Soon after one o'clock this morning,the drums Monday 2.
were beat through all the courts of the palace,
and in half an hour the whole fuite was in
motion. The bedding was then fent on in
carts ;-and the Ambaffador, with his attendants,
having made a flight breakfaft, quitted the pa
lace at half an hour paft three o'clock, under a
ftrong efcort of Chinefe cavalry ; but, even at
this early hour, the crowd of fpectators was
' fo great to fee our departure, that the pro
grefs of the cavalcade was very much impeded;
efpecially the carriage of the Ambaffador,
which, from the concourfe of people arid the
awkwardnefs of the horfes which had not been
properly broke into their new geer, was very
much delayed.
At

( i88 ) '->/.
•1793. At feven o'clock we paffed through the city
totcmber E^c, and in.about half ap hour had exchanged
the fuburbs for a rich and finely cultivated
country. The road, though very broad, had no
pavement in the center, like that which leads
from Tong-tchew to Pekin: At the end of fix
miles we flopped at a considerable village called
Chin-giho, where we Stayed to take the ufual
refreshments of the morning, which have been
fo often mentioned. " Our route was then con
tinued through a great number of villages, and
near three o'clock arr, ;d at one of the Empe
ror's palaces named ISanfhiShee, where we
were appointed to remain during the firft night
of our journey.
The mandarin Van-Tadge-In, -whom I nave
1
had fuch frequent occafion to mention, rather
hacreafed than diminished his activity on the
prefent journey ; which might afife, perhaps,
from, our being more particularly under the
imperial care and protection. We were here
provided [with every requisite accommodation,
and in a very comfortable manner. To our
dinner each day was added a regale of jooaw
and ShamptShoo : the former is a bitter wine of
the country ; and the latter, a very StrOng fpi
rit diftil led. from rice and millet, whofe appear-

fc^c refembles that of BritiSh girt

In

( 1 89 )
In the everiing the foldiers were exercifed by 1793*
Lieut. Colonel Benfon. sqISnUr.
We computed the journey of this day to be
about twenty-five miles ; and, though it may
appear but dull travelling to perfons accuf
tomed to the expedition of English roads, it
will be considered as no vfery tardy progrefs,
when the obftacles are known which tended to.
impede it.
Tne fame horfes were to take us the whole
journey, and the fame men to carry the bag
gage ; befides, the whole of our provisions was
ordered and dreffed at the feveral places through
,% which we paffed on the road, and conveyed in
bowls, carefully covered up in trays, on men's
Shoulders, to every ftage of our journey, for our
refreshment there.
The diftance from Pekin to Jehol is one
hundred and Sixty miles, which was divided
into feven nearly equal daily journies. This
arrangement., was made that the embaffy might
be accommodated each day beneath an imperial
roof; as the Emperor for his own convenience
and dignity, has a certain number of palaces
built at equal distances on the road from Pekin
to his fummer residence in Tartary. This pri
vilege was considered to be a moft flattering
mark of distinction, as it is never granted even
to the firft mandarins of the empire.
1 Of

( t9° )
i
1793. Of this place we can fay but little, as no parts
,' September. w,ere open to our inspection but thofe which wp
inhabited. It did not rife higher than one Story;
nor, from what we bad an opportunity of fee
ing* did it appear that the interior apartments
were fuperior to the external form ; which had
nothing either of elegance or figure to attract
attention. The central part of the courts were
planted with trees and flowers of various kinds*
which had a very pleaflng effect. An exten
sive garden furrounded the palace, but we could
not, to our very great difappointment, obtain
,'.. accefs to it.
tuefday j. We continued our journey at four o'clock
this morning, with the fame guard of Chinefe"
cavalry ; and, having paffed the village of Can-
tim, which poffeffes the ufual characteristic of
every Chinefe village we had yet feen, an over
flowing population, we arrived at the town of
Wheazou , a conflderable place ; and, after the
qfual refrefhments, proceeded, beneath a burn
ing fun, along dufty roads, but through a very
fertile country, to the palace of Chancin, where
we arrived at one o'clock. It is a very exten
sive building pf one ftory throughout, and con
tains ten or twelve Spacious courts, furrounded
With piazzas, and adorned with central gardens,
planted with trees and thickened Shrubberies that
Were interfered by wralks. The country around it

day 4.

( W )
it boaSts a continuation of that fertility which
has been already mentioned. It was enclofed,
£nd fed innumerable herds of cattle and flocks
of Sheep; the former are fmall but very fat, with
white faces, and a fhort thick tail, which is a
lump of fat, and weighs feveral pounds.
We fet off this morning at five o'clock. The wti^u
diftant country appeared to be mountainous,
and rofe boldly in the horizon. That fertility
of which fo much has been faid, began Senfibly
to diminish, and the richncfs of the foil vras
proportionably decreasing. At half paft feven
o'clock we arrived at a fmall village, called
Cuaboocow, where we breakfafted, and, from
fome accidental circumftance, not in the ufual
ftile of plenty in a place like a farm yard.
The road, as we proceeded on our journey*
became extremely rugged and difagreeable, and
the heat of the weather continued without any
'alleviation. At noon we faw a very large walled city,
called Caungchumfoa ; the walls' of which were
built of ftone, and, though not fo lofty, in the
fame form, as thofe of Pekin.
We paffed at leaft two hundred dromedaries
and camels carrying very heavy loads of wood
and charcoal, as it appeared, to the city which
has been juft mentioned. This large drove was
under the direction of one man, who feemed to
3 manage

( *9* )
^?93j man'age it without the leaft difficulty, Thefe
September, animals are among the moft docile of the brute
creation ; befides, the length of time they can
faft, and their great -ftrength as beafts of bur
then, render them invaluable in the commerce
of the eaft.
The palace where the embaffy was received at
the end of this day's journey, derives its name
from the city of Caungchumfoa, near which it
ftands : it is furrounded with gardens, but has
little to distinguish it from thofe which we have
already inhabited.
This was the moft fatiguing and unpleafant
day of our whole route, both from the heat of
the weather and the badnefs of the road, which
wasfo rugged and narrow in many places, that
fome of the carts were overturned ; but, hap
pily, without any accident to thofe whom they
conveyed.

CHAR

( J93 )

CHAP. XI.
Arrive at the town of Vp aung-chauyeng. — Defcrip
tion of Chinefe foldiers, &c. — Pafs the great waU;
defcription of it. — The different appearances of
Tartary and China. — Pafs an extraordinary moun
tain.— Arrive at the palace of Chaung-jhanuve^
the circumftances of it. — Example of the induftry
of the peafants, and the cultivation of the country.
— Some account of the tenure by which lands are
held in China. — Arrive at the palace of Callachot-
tueng ; defcription of- it. — Arrangements, fettled
for the manner in which the embaffy was to make
its entrance into Jehol.
XjLS the country was now become very irre,&, x793-
gular and mountainous, the roads were propor- September.
tionably fatiguing. At nine we arrived at the ays'
town of Waung-chauyeng. At a fmall diftance
from it, we paffed an arch of great ftrength,
which Stretches acrofs a valley to unite the op
pofite hills, and is guarded by a broad wall on
either fide of it. A little further, the road pro
ceeds up a very fleep hill, on the top of which
there is a fort, with a Strong wall or rampart
extending pn either fide of it, to the diftance of
two or three miles. From the elevated fitua-
0 tions

( »94 )
1 793* tions which the inequality of the road frequency
September, offered, this wall was a very visible object in
its whole extent, and appeared to be in a ftate '
of decay. \
Beneath the fort is a ftrong, thick, ftone
archway, through which the road conducted us
down a hill, whofe declivity was fuch, as to
>- oblige the drivers to have but one horfe in each
carriage, and to fecure a wheel with ropes, to
prevent a too rapid defeent. At the bottom of
this hill, and in a moft romantic valley, Stands
the town of Waung-chauyeng, which refembles
thofe places of the fame kind that have been al
ready defcribed, except in the uniformity of
them ; this being built with greater irregularity
than any we had yet feen. It is about a mile
in length, as well as I could judge from our
paffage through it, but I had no opportunity of
afcertaining its breadth : populous it was, of
courfe, and appeared to be a very bufy place.
After breakfaft we proceeded towards a fpot
on our journey, of which we had all heard or
read with wonder arid aftonifhment ; which fo
few Europeans had ever feen, and which no
one of our own country would probably ever
fee but ourfelves : this was the great wall, the
ancient boundary of China and Tartary,
through whofe portals our paffage lay.
1 At

( i-95 )
At the end of the town which has been juft 1793-
mentioned, there was a temporary arch erected September,
in honour of the embaffy, finely decorated
with Streamers and Silks of various colours : —
at the entrance of it the Ambaffador was faluted
with three guns. There we paffed between a
double line of foldiers, which extended on either
fide of the road, from the triumphal gateway
towards the great wall.
Thefe were the only foldiers we had yet feen
in China, who poffeffed a martial appearance ;
and, according to my notion of fuch things, I
never faw a finer difplay of military parade.
. They were drawn up in a very regular manner,
each regiment being distinguished by a diffe
rent drefs, and divided into companies: thefe
were ranked in clofe columns, and in their
fronts Stood the officers with two Stands of co .
lours. They were all arrayed in a kind of ar
mour, which confifted of a Joofe coat or robe,
in imitation of a coat of mail, with Steel hel
mets that covered their heads and Shoulders.
Their implements of war were various, com
prising matchlocks, fabres, daggers, Spears,
halberds, lances, bows and arrows, with fome
other weapons, of which I knew not the name,
and cannot particularly deferibe. Thofe com
panies of foldiers who wore no warlike inftru-
ment but the fword, had a Shield to accompany
O 2 it.

( 1 9« )
i7g3. it. In Short, every one of thefe military divi-
J — t J fions was distinguished by their drefs and arms,
September. o J .
and arranged with the utmoft propriety, not
merely as to regularity of pofltion in their gene
ral diflribution, but as to the effect of contraft
in the variety of external appearance. On one
', fide of the road there were fevcnteen of thefe
divisions, each confifting, as I Should think,
of about eighty men ; and a band of muficians,
placed in a building erected, as it appeared,
for the occafion, continued to play, as the
cavalcade of the English embaffy paffed be
tween the lines.
On approaching the wall, there were can
tonments for a considerable army, at the extre
mity of which there is a very ftrong gateway,
built of ftone, and^ ftill Strengthened with the
addition of three vaft iron doors ; on patting
them, we entered Tartary. On the outfide of
another gateway is a Strong redoubt, from
whence we afcended the hill, and contrived to
get on the top of the great wall which formerly
Separated the two empires.
This wall is, perhaps, the moft Stupendous
work ever produced by man : the length of it
is fuppofed to be upwards of twelve hundred
miles, and its height in the place where I Stood
upon it, for it varies in its circumftances, ac
cording to the nature of the furface, is upwards of

( l91 )
of thirty feet, and it is about twenty-four feet J793«
broad. The foundation is formed of large fquare September.
ftones, and the reft is brick : the middle is of
tempered earth, covered with broad ftones ;
there is alfo an embattled parapet or breast
work of Stone, three feet thick, on each fide of
the wall.
When it is considered that this immenfe Struc
ture is not merely carried along level ground,
but paffes over immenfe rivers, where it affumes
the form of bridges, fome of which contain
double rows of immenfe arches ; or Stretches,
in the fame expanfive Shape* acrofs deep vallies
to connect the mountains that form them ; and
that it not only defcends, but alfo afcends, the
fteepeft declivities ; the idea of its grandeur, and
the active labour employed in conftructing it,
in the Short fpace of a few years, is not eafily
grafped by the Strongest imagination.
Where it climbs the heights, the afcent is
aided by large flights of Steps, fo that the paf
fage along it is at once eafy, fecure, and Unin
terrupted. In Short, it formed a fine military
way, by which the armies of China, employed
to defend its frontier againft the Tartars, could
march from one end of the kingdom to the
other. There are alfo, at proper diftances,
ftrong towers, from whence, by certain Signals,
an alarm could be communicated, in a very
Q 3 Short

( *98 )
J793- Short' fpace of time, acrofs the whole empire ;
September, and wherever the wall attains the fummit of an
hill, or mountain, there is a ftrong fort defigned
to watch the incurflons and movements of the
enemy. The part of this wall on which I flood,
Commanded a very pxtenflve view of it, with
all the romantic fcenery connected with it.
From hence I faw the amazing fabric take its
courfe for many miles over a beautiful plain,
watered by a large river, which it croffed in the
form of a bridge. A little to the weflward it
afcends a very lofty mountain, which, on that
fide, completes the profpect.
But the moft ftupendous works of man muft
at length moulder away ; and Since Tartary and
China are become one nation, and confe
quently fubject to the fame government, the
wall has loft its importance : it being no longer
neceffary for defence or fecurity, no attention
is now paid to its prefer'vation ; fo that the time
is approaching when this ftupendous monument
of perfevering labour ; when this unparalleled
effort of national policy, will become an enor
mous length of ruins, and an awful example of
decay : many parts of it arc already fallen down,
and others threaten to encumber the plain that -
they were reared to defend.
One

( *99 )
One of the mandarins informed me, as we 1793.
Were walking together on the wall, that, accord- ^Z^.
ing to the hiflories of his country, it had been
finished upwards of two thoufand years ago ;
and, confequently, feveral centuries before the
Christian asra.
I muft, however, acknowledge that, after all,
this renowned barrier of China-did not, altoge-
ther, fatisfy my expectations. The wonder of
it confifls in its extent, of which a fmall part is
to be feen ; and the Short time in which it was
erected, may equally aftonifli by reading an ac
count of it. When I flood on it, I was ftill
obliged to exercife my imagination as to the
aStoniShing circumftances connected with it, ,
and faw it alfo in a comparative view with na- ¦
tural objects infinitely fuperior, at leaft, to any
partial appearance of it.
When we had paffed the wall, there was an
immediate change in the appearance of the
country. Inftead of a level range of Various
and unceafing cultivation, of the habitations of
wealth, the crowd of population, and the ex
ertion of induftry, we beheld a wide and bar
ren wafte, finking into yallies, and riling into
mountains ; where no harveft waved, no vil
lages poured forth their inhabitants, or Splendid
manfions enriched the feene. The traveller,
however, is amply compenfated by the variety
O 4 of

( aoo )
1793- of natural objects which prefent themfelves to
s^mter. him ; and the lover of picturefque beauty finds,
amidft all the increasing inconveniencies of his
journey, a fource of enchantment which makes
him forget them all.
At the distance of about feven miles from the
great wall, we came to the foot of a very high
mountain, which the carts could not afcend
without an additional number of horfcs. The
paffage through this mountain is another proof
of the genius and indefatigable fpirit of the
Chinefe people in all works that relate to public
utility. It is thirty feet in breadth, cut through
a folid rock ; and, which is the more extraor
dinary part of this undertaking, the inciflon
made from the top of the mountain to the fur
face of the road, is, at leaft, one hundred feet :
— a ftupendous labour ! But furmbunting with
this aid in the paffage, the beginning of the
afcent has a very fearful appearance ; while on
the other Side the way Slopes down with a gentle
declivity between two large mountains towards
a beautiful'valley. At two o'clock we arrived at the palace of
Chaung-fhanuve, which is fituated pn a fmall
elevation, at the diflance of a mile and an half
from the bottom of the hill which has been juft
defcribed. It is of large dimenflons, and fur
rounded by an high wall, being the residence of

( aoi )
of a conflderable number of the Emperor's wo- 1793.
men ; many of whom I faw peeping over the sZ^^.;
partition which feparated their apartments from
the part of the palace affigned to the accommo
dation of the embaffy. Though it was not per
mitted for any of the Ambaffador's fuite, as
may well be fuppofed, to vifit thefe ladies, the
guardians of them, who were all eunuchs, came
to vifit us. There were, indeed, feveral man
darins among them, to whom was confignecl
the care and conduct of the female community.
«This palace was furrounded with very exten-
ftve gardens, but, from the particular fervice to
which it was applied, it would have been a
flrong mark of folly, as well as an idle rifk of
danger, to have made any attempt to fee them.
We left Chaung-fhanuve this morning at Friday s.
half paft fix, and found the weather extremely
cold and piercing. The rpad continued to take
the form of the country, which was very moun
tainous and irregular, as well as naked, and
without any other marks of cultivation but fuch
as denoted the poverty of it. But this barren
appearance does not proceed from the inactivity
of the inhabitants, who feize on every fpot ca
pable of being tilled, and in Situations which
are acceflible only to the adventurous peafant,
whom neceffify impels to gather a fcanty and
dangerous harveft. One example of this ha
zardous

( %ot )
»793- zardous induftry, which I obferVed this mortis
September, ing, will fufficiently illuftrate the barrennefs of
the country, and the fpirit of its fcattered inha
bitants. On a very high mountain I difcovered feveral
diftinct patches of cultivated ground, in fuch a
ftate of declivity, as appeared to be altogether
inacceffible ; and while I was considering the
means which the owner of them muft employ
to plant and gather his vegetables on thefe
alarming precipices, I beheld him actually em
ployed in digging a fmall fpot near the top of
the hill, and in a fituation .where it appeared t°
me to be impoffible, without fome extraordinary
contrivance, for any one to Stand, much lefs to
be following the bufinefs of a gardener. A
more minute examination informed me, that
this poor peafant had a rope fattened round his
middle, which was fecured at the top of the
mountain, and by which this hardy cultivator
lets himfelf down to any part of the precipice
where a few fquare yards of ground gave him
encouragement to plant his vegetables, or his
corn : and in this manner he had decorated the
mountain with thofe little cultivated fpots
fliat hung about it. Near the bottom, on an
hillock, this industrious peaSant had erected a
wooden hut, furrounded with a fmall piece of
ground, planted with cabbages, where he flip- '
ported,

( ™3 )
ported, by this hazardous induftry, a wife and XW3«
family. The whole of thefe cultivated Spots September.
does not amount to more fhanbalf an acre; but
Situated, as they are, at fuch considerable .and
hazardous diftances from each other, they offer
a very curious example of the natural induflry
of the people.
It is, certainly, a wife policy in the govern
ment of China to receive the greater part of the
taxes in the produce of the country : and is a
conflderable Spur to improvement and induflry
in every clafs of the people, who are to get their
bread by the exertions of genius, or the fweat
of their brow. " The landlord, alfo, receives the
greater part of his rents in the produce of his
farms ; and the farmer pays his fervants, in a
great meafure, by giving them pieces of wafte
uncultivated land, where there are any, with
occaflon,al encouragement to excite their in
dustry. Such are the cuftoms which prevail
throughout China, and tend fo much to pre-
ferve the prosperity, and promote the cultivation
of every part of that extenfive empire.
By ten o'clock this mornipg we arrived at the
palace of Callachottueng, near a fmall village of
the fame name, where we remained the whole
of this day, on account of the length of the
next ftage ; and in order to make a more equal
division of the reft of our journey. This

( 104 )
1 793- This palace is fituated in a plain, between two
September. very large and lofty mountains : in form and
external appearance it refembles thofe we have
already defcribed ; buf appears to be of modern
erection ; and its apartments are fitted up in a
better Style than any we had yet feen. In fome
of the courts there were artificial ruins, a favou
rite object in the ornamental gardening of this
country, furrounded with plots of verdure.
As the embaffy now approached the termina
tion of its journey, and.was foon to appear be
fore the fovereign, to obtain whofe favour and
friendfhip it had traverfed fo large a part of the
globe, the Ambaffador gave orders for rehearf-
ing the proceffion, with which we were tojnake
our appearance at the Imperial court. This
evening, therefore, the ceremonial was arranged*
and performed, under the direction of Lieut.
Col. Benfon, and approved by the Ambaffador.
The band played She Duke of York's march
during the time of our rehearfal.

C H A P.

( 205 )

CHAP. XII.
Arrive at the palace of Callachotrefhanfu. — Stop at
one of the Emperor's pagodas. — The public entry
into Jehol.-— Defcription of ihe palace provided for
• the Britifh embaffy. — A principal mandarin pays
a vifit of ceremony to the Ambaffador. — Singular
conduct refpecting the provifions fupplied for the
fuite, -n-The prefents unpacked and difplayed.— An
account of. them.
VV E fet off this morning at fix o'clock, 1793.
when the air was cold and piercing, and paffed September.
through a very hilly and mountainous coun- Sawrday 7-
try. After having breakfafted at a village of
the name of Quanfhanglin, the route was con
tinued. The villages we now paffed were well peo
pled, but the difference is very great indeed
between the population, as well as cultivated
ftate of China and Tartary. On this fide of
the wall, the picture is extremely varied, the
face and productions of the country are no
longer the fame ; por were there any towns
of consideration in the latter part of our jour
ney. At

( , ac-6 >
^93; At two o'clock in the afternoon we arrived,
September, very much fatigued by the badnefs of the roads,
and the jolting faculties of our carriages, at
the palace of Callachotrefhangfu. It is a Spa
cious and noble edifice, but has not been lately -
inhabited ; as might well be fuppofed, from the
great number of Squirrels' runping about the
courts, and haunting the apartments.
Sunday 42. Tne embaffy continued its route at fix
o'clock, and, in about two hours, arrived at
one of the Emperor's pagodas, about three
miles from the imperial reftdence. There a
more abundant difplay of refreshments was
prepared than we had feen for fome time, from
the difficulty of procuring them in the country
through which we paffed. Some time was alfo
neceffary for every part of the fuite to arrange
their drefs, and fettle their appearance. At
half paft nine, however, we arrived at a fmall
village, called Quoangcho, at about the diflance
of a mile from 'Jehol. Here the fuite alighted
from their h'orfes and carriages, and put them
felves in a ftate of preparation for the entry ;
which proceeded in the following manner,
amidft a prodigious concourfe of people, whom
curiofity had led to fee fuch a fpectacle as they
had never feen before, arid will never, I believe,

behold again.

The

( 2°7 )
The foldiers of the royal artillery, com
manded by Lieut. Parifh ;
The light-horfe and infantry, commanded
by Lieut. Crewe ;
The fervants of the Ambaffador, two and
two ; (
The couriers ;
The mechanics, two and two ;
The muficians, two and two ;
The gentlemen of the fuite, two and two ;
Sir George Staunton in a palankin ;
The Ambaffador and Mr. Staunton in the
poft-chaife, with a'black-boy, drefled in a tur
ban, behind it, clofed the proceffion;
There was-, indeed, fomewhat of parade in
all this bufinefs, but it was by no means cal
culated to imprefs 'a favourable idea of the
greatnefs of the BritiSh nation on the minds of
thofe who beheld it ; they might be pleated
with its novelty ; but it did not, in any degree,
poffefs that characteriftic appearance which
was fo neceffary on the prefent occafion. The
military departments made a refpectable figure,
and the gentlemen of the fuite cannot be fup
pofed for a moment to derogate from the diplo
matic character in which they were involved ;
but the reft of the company exhibited a very
awkward appearance : fome wore round hats,
fome cocked hats, others Straw hats ; fome were

( 2,08 )
were in whole boots, fome in half boots, and
others in Shoes with coloured Stockings. In
Short, unlefs it was in fecond-hand coats and
waiftcoats, which did not fit them, the inferior
part of the fuite did not enjoy even the ap
pearance of Shabby uniformity.
In this ftate and order the proceffion moved
on with a flow pace to the city of Jehol, and
foon after ten o'clock arrived at the palace pro
vided for the accommodation of the BritiSh em
baffy in this city. Here the military part of thp
cavalcade formed a line to receive the Ambaf
fador with the ufual honours.
Thus the embaffy arrived at the end of its te
dious and troublefome journey : but the manner
of its reception did not fill us with any extra
vagant expectation as to the iffue of it ; for not
a mandarin appeared to congratulate the Am^
baSfador on his arrival, or to u.fher him, with
that form which his dignity demanded, to the,
apartments provided. for him. In Short, we
came to this palace with more than ufual ce
remony ; but we entered into it with as little,,
as any of thofe where we had been accomma-
dated during our journey. This appeared to be
the more extraordinary, as it was the avowed
expectation of the principal perfons of the
Suite, that the Ambaffador would be met, on
his entry at Jehol, by the Grand Choulaa, the
Impe-

( *©9 )V
irriperial minifter of ftate : but on what grounds 1793.
this expectation was formed, or for what reafon ^Z^.
if received fuch a difappointment, is riot for me
to offer a conjecture.
On our arrival, Lieut. Col. Benfbn ordered
the troops to hold themfelves in readinefsto fall
into a line at a moment's warning ; and deflred
the fervants, mechanics, &c. to range them
felves in order before the door of the Ambaffa
dor's apartments, in order to receive the Grand
Choulaa, who was expected every. moment to
pay his viflt of Salutation and welcome.
In this State of flifpenfe we remained from
our arival tilfpaft four o'clock; in the courfe
of which time we had paraded ' at leaft a dozen
times, as feveral mandarins cairi'e to take a cu
rious view of us, and every orie of them was
fuppofed, in his turn, to be the Grand Choulaa.
The arrival of diriner, however, put an end to
all expectations of feeing him on this day.
The palace,' 'which was now become the re
sidence of the embaffy, is built on the declivity
of. a hill ; the entrance to it is by eight large
broad Steps that lead to a wooden gateway,
through which there is a paffage to a large
court, paved in the: center with large flat Stones.
On each flde of this court there is a long and
broad gallery roofed with black Shining tiles,
and Supported in front by ftrong wooden pillars.
P Tint

( 21° )"
That on the left was employed at this time as a
kitchen, and enclofed by mats nailed along the
pillars to the height of feven or eight feet ; the
other, on the opofite flde, was quite open,
and ufed as a place of parade and exercife for
the foldiers. At the upper end of this court
there is another neat gallery or platform laid
with ftones, and roofed in the fame manner as
the others. To this there is an afcent of three .
fteps, and a door opens from it into ano
ther court, the wipgs of which afforded cham
bers for the military part of the embaffy ; and
the center part, fronting the gallery, to which
there is an afcent of three fteps, contained the
apartments of the Ambaffador and Sir George
Staunton : beyond this is another court of the
fame dimensions, the wings of which were oc
cupied by the mechanics, muficians, and fer
vants, and the center of it by the gentlemen of
the fuite ; but it confifted only of two large
rooms, where they Slept in two divisions, and
a lobby of communication, which was ufed a*
an eating faloon.
This building cannot be defcribed as pofie£
flng either grandeur or elegance : it does not
rife beyond a ground floor, and is of unequal
height, as the ground on which it is built is on
a gradual afcent. It is furrounded by a wall, but

( 211 )
but is overlooked from the upper parts of the
hill, pn whofe declivity it is erected.
But though we were'as yet rather difappoirited
in the reception of honours, we had no reafon
to be diffatisfied with the attention paid to our
more urgent neceffities ; and we dined in com
fort and abundance.
, This morning, at fo early an hour as feven Monday 9.
o'clock, we received a large quantity of boiled
eggs, with tea and bread, for breakfaft. At
noon his Excellency was vifited by feveral
mandarins. Nothing, however, as yet tranf-
pired that could lead us to form a judgment as
to the final iffue of the bufinefs : as far as any
opinion could be formed as to the general afpedt
of things, it did not bear the promife of that
fuccefs which had been originally expected
from it.
The Grand Choulaa ftill delayed his ex
pected vifit.
In this palace, as in our former places of re
sidence, we experienced the jealous precaution
of the Chinefe government : we were alfo kept
here in a ftate of abfolute confinement ; and, on
no pretext, was it permitted to any perfon, at
tached to the embaffy, to pafs the gates.
This morning his Excellency was vifited by a Tuefday 10.
mandarin, accompanied by a numerous train of
attendants. He remained with the Ambaffador
P 2 * and

( 2 1.2 )
1793. and Sir George Staunton about an hour, whet!
September, feme neceffary formalities were interchanged ;
and he then returned with the fame form in
which he came. During the vifit of the man
darin, his attendants were very bufily employed
in examining the drefs of the Epglifh fervants ;
the lace of which they rubbed with a Stone to
certify its quality, and then looking, at, eaph
other with an. air of furprife, they Shook their
heads and frniled ; a fufficient proof that the
Tartars are not unacquainted with the value ,of
metals; at leaft, they clearly comprehended -
the inferior value of the trimmings that deco
rated the liveries of the embaffy. They ap
peared to be a polite and pleafant people, and
of an agreeable afpect.
Though it cannot be fuppofed that, fuch a
conference as was this morning held between
the BritiSh Ambaffador and the mandarin would
be communicated to the general attendants on
the embaffy, yet we could not reflfl the Spirit of
conjecture on the occafipn : the following cir
cumftance, which took place this morning, did
not ferve to diflipate that difpofition to forebode
ill, which prevailed among us.
The Ambaffador ordered Mr. Winder, one
of his fecretaries, to intimate to the fervants,
that, in cafe they flaould find, in the courfe of
the day, any deficiency in their provifions,,
a either

( 213 )
either in quality Or quantity, they fhould not 1793.
complain to the people who fupplied them, but s^mta-,
leave them Untouched, and intimate the grie
vance to his Excellency ; \yho requested, for
Very particular and weighty reafons, that this
Order might be punctually obferVed.
It becaine thofe to whom this intimation was
made, to pay the moft willing obedience to it ;
at the fame tinie, it excited no fmall degree of
aftonifhment that we Should thus be ordered to
prepare otirfelves for ill-ufage in the article of
provifions, of which we had, hitherto, fo little
reafon fo complain. Our treatment in this re
spect had been not only hofpitable, but boun
teous in the extreme. To fuggeft caufes of
complaint to thofe who never yet had reafon to
complain, was a conduct perfectly unintelli
gible in itfelf; and was, therefore, very natu
rally referred to the interview of the morning
between the mandarin and the Ambaffador.
When, however,' dinner came, we were fen-
"fible that the precaution's communicated to us
were, as we expected to find them, the refult
of fome Well-grburided flifpicion ; for, inftead,
of that abundance with which, our tables had
hitherto been ferved, there was not now a fuffi- '
oient quantity Of provifions for half the perfons
who were ready to partake of thehi.
P3 The

( ai4 ) '
1793., The emotions of every one attached to the
s'epTSel embaffy were, I believe, very unpleafant upon
the occafion. We not only felt the probability
that we might be Starved as well as imprifoned ;
but that the embaffy itfelf was treated with dif-
refpect ; and, of courfe, we felt fome alarm, left
the important objects of it would quickly vanifh
into nothing. We had alfo our feelings as
Britons, and felt the infult, as it appeared to us,
which was offered to the crown and dignity of
the firft nation in the world.
This meagre meal, therefore, was left un
touched ; and,- in ' conformity to the orders
which had been received, complaints were pre
ferred to his Excellency on the occafion ; and,
on a report being made to him that the repre- (
fentations which had been made were founded
in reality, Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, was re
quested to communicate the caufe of difcontent
to the mandarin, and to , infift on more hofpi-
table ufage : nor was the remonftrance without
an immediate effect ; for, within five minutes
after it was made, each table was ferved with a
variety of hot diShes, not only in plenty, but
profufion. Why this entertainment, when it muft have
been in actual ftate of preparation to be ferved,
was thus withheld from us, could not be re
conciled to any principle of juftice or policy.
. To

( 2i5 ) ;
To fuppofe that it proceeded from caprice, or I793«
an humProus fpirit of tantalifing, cannot be September.
readily imagined ; and, as for any faving of ex
penfe in the bufinefs, that could be no object
to the treafliry of the Emperor. It was treated,
therefore, as an enigma, which, when the evil
was removed, foon ceafed to be a fubject of
curiofity or inquiry.
The Ambaffador was this morning pleafed to Wednefi.
to r day un
order the prefects which were brought from
Pekin, to be unpacked in the great platform,
or portico, facing his Excellency's apartments ;
"where feveral ranges of tables were placed to
receive them. They were as follows ;
Two hundred pieces of narrow coarfe cloth,
chiefly black an^ blue,
Two large telefcopes.
Two air guns.
Two beautiful fowling .pieces ; one inlaid
with gold, and the other with filver.
. Two. pair of faddle piftols, enriched and or
namented in the fame manner.
Two boxes, each containing feven pieces of
Irifh tabinets.
Two elegant Saddles, with complete furni
ture : the feats of thefe were of fine doe
flcin, ftitched with filver thread ; the flaps
were of a bright yellow Superfine cloth,
embroidered with filver, and enriched wifh
P 4 filver

( «6 )
filver Spangles and taffels ; the reins and
ftirrup-flraps were of bright yellow leather,
Stitched with Silver ; the Stirrups, buckles,
&c. were of Steel double plaited ; and,
Two large boxes, containing the fineft car
pets of the Britifh manufactory.
Thefe were all the prefents which were
brought from Pekin : the reft, conflfting of va
rious pieces of clock-work and machinery, with
carriages, and pieces of artillery, were either
too cumberfome or too delicate to venture on So
long a journey; and were, therefore, intended
to be prefented to his Imperial Majefty, on his
return, for the winter feafon, to the capital of
his empire.
The prefents were ordered to remain in their
prefent fituation till the imperial pleafure Should
be known concerning them. Centinels were
appointed to do dirty on the platform where
they were placed.

CHAP.

( "J? )

CHAP. XIII.
*.-
The prefents removed from the palace. — A notifica
tion received that the Emperor would give audi
ence to the Britifh Ambaffador.'— Orders iffued to
the fuite on the occafion. — The proceffion to the
imperial palace defcribed. — Ihe Ambaffador s firft
audience of the Emperor. — Prefents received on
the occafion. — The Ambaffador s fecpnd vifit to the
Emperor.— Additional prefents. — Favourable opi
nions entertained of the fuccefs of the embaffy.
J. HIS morning, the conducting mandarin, 1793.
Van-Tadge-In, accompanied by feveral of his ^^ba.
mandarin brethren, and a troop of attendants,
removed the prefents, as was prefumed, to the
palace of the Emperor.
His Excellency, at the fame time, received a
vifit from a mandarin of the firft order, who
came to notify that the Emperor would, on
Saturday morning, give audience to the Am
baffador of the King of Great Britain at the
imperial palace. This intelligence enlivened
the Spirits, as it animated the hopes of the
whole embaffy : and, though the Grand Chou laa

Thurf-
day it.

( *i8 )
»793- laa had not vifited the Ambaffador, and other
September, circumftances of an unfavourable alpect had
taken place, the news of the day not only dif-
flpated our gloom, but renewed the tide of ex
pectation, and made it flow with an accelerated
current. His Excellency received the vifits of Several
mandarins of distinction, who continued with
him upwards of an hour.
Orders were iffued, that' the whole Suite
Should be ready on the following morning, at
three o'clock, to accompany the Ambaffador to
the imperial palace. The fervants were or
dered to drefs in their green and gold liveries,
and to wear white filk, or cotton Stockings,
with Shoes ; boots of any kind being absolutely
prohibited on *this occafion. It was, at the
fame time, intimated, that neither the foldiers,
or the fervants, were to remain at the palace
for the return of the Ambaffador ; but when
they had attended him there, they were re
quested to return immediately to Jehol, without
prefuming to halt at any place whatever for a
Single moment ; as his Excellency had every
reafon to expect that, in a few days, the prefent
restrictions, which were fo irkfome to the re
tinue of the embaffy, would be removed, and
every indulgence granted them which they
could reafonably defire : and as any deviation from

( 2»9 )
from this order would tend to rifque the lofs of «793*
that meditated favour, his Excellency ferioufly September.
expected it to meet with a general and willing
obedience. This morning, at fo early an hour as three Sunday 14.
o'clock, the Ambaffador and his fuite proceeded,
in full uniform, to the Emperor's court.
His Excellency was drefled in a fuit of
Spotted mulberry velvet, with a diamond liar,
and the red riband ; over which he wore the
full habit of the order of the Bath, with the
hat, and plume of feathers, that form a part of
it. Sir George Staunton was alfo in a full
court drefs, over which he wore the robe of a
doctor of laws in the Englifh universities,
with the black velvet cap belonging to that
degree. Though the morning was fo dark that we
could not distinguish each other, Lieutenant-
Colonel Benfon made an attempt to form a
proceffion, to proceed- the palankin of the
Ambaffador. But this manoeuvre was of very
Short duration, as the bearers of it moved rather
too faft for the folemnity of a flow march ;
and, inftead of proceeding it with a grave pace,
we were glad tov follow it with a quick one.
Indeed, whether it was the attraction of our
mufic, or any accidental circumftance, I know
not* we found ourfelves intefminged with a
cohort

( 220 )
,7f3« cohort of pigs, affes, and dogs, which broke
.September, our ranks, fuch as they were, arid put us into
irrecoverable confufion. All formality of pro
ceffion, therefore, was at an end; and the Am
baffador's palankin was fo far advanced before
us, as to make a little Smart running neceffary
to overtake it.
After a confufed cavalcade, if it can deferve
that name, we arrived at the palace of the Em
peror, in the fame ftate of confufion in which
we had proceeded — the pedeftrian part of the
fuite being a little out of breath with running ;
and the gentlemen on horfeback, not altoge
ther infenfible to the risk of accidents from the
dark hour of the morning. In fliort, it ap
peared, to the greater part of thofe wbo were
concerned in it, to be rather ridiculous to at
tempt to make a parade that no one could
fee. At about five o'clock the Ambaffador alighted
from his palankin, amidft an immenfe concourfe
of people; Sir George, and Mr. Staunton bear
ing the train, were followed by the gentlemen
attached to the embaffy.
The fervants, &c. returned according to or
der, and the foldiers marched back with fife
and drum. As our return was by day-light,
we had feme opportunity of examining the ap
pearance of the city where we refided. It

( 221 )
It is a large and populous place, built with--! 1793.
out any attention whatever to regularity of;s^^r>
defign, and lies : in a hollow, formed by two [
large mountains. The houfes are low, of a^
mean appearance, and built chiefly of wood :
the ftreets are not paved in any part of the city,
but in that quarter of it which is moft contigu
ous to the Emperor's palace ; the road to which :
is laid with large flat ftones.
As this place is not watered by any river, it
cannot be fuppofed to enjoy a large portion of
commerce. Its trade, however, is not altoge
ther, inconsiderable, from the confumption oc
cafloned by the residence of the Emperor in the
immediate neighbourhood; a. circumftance
which not only occasions a great iPcreafe of in
habitants, but brings with it the wealth, the
luxury, and the expenfes of a court.
The Surrounding . country wears a greater
appearance of fertility, than any I had feen in
thofe parts of Tartary through which the em
baffy had paffed ; but, in its beft ftate, it is by
no means comparable to that of China.
, At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, the Am
baffador and his fuite returned from the impe
rial palace. It was a vifit of mere form and
presentation ; and his Excellency, Sir George
Staunton, and Mr. Staunton, with Mr. Plumb, the

( Z2Z )
1793. the interpreter, were alone admitted into the
September prefence of the Emperor.
The Emperor, it was Said* received the cre
dentials of the embaffy with a moft ceremoni
ous formality. All, however, that we could
learn, as matter of indubitable Occurrence, was
the notice his Imperial Majefty was pleafed to
take of Mafter Staunton, the fon of Sir
. George Staunton. He appeared to be very
much ftruck with the boy's vivacity and
deportment ; and expreffed his admiration of
- the faculty which the yotmg gentleman pof
feffed of fpeaking fix different languages. The
Emperor, to manifeft the approbation he felt
on the occafion* not only prefented him, with
his own hand, a very beautiful fan, and feveral
Small embroidered bags and purfes, but com
manded the interpreter to Signify, that he
thought very highly of his talents and appear
ance. In a very Short time after the Ambaffador
had returned from court, a large quantity of pre
fents were received from his Imperial Majefly.
They confifted of the richeft velvets, fatins,
Silks, and purfes beautifully embroidered. To
thefe were added large parcels of the beft tea
of the country, made up in folid cakes, in the
Size and form of a Dutch cheefe.* It is thus
baked together, by which means it will never be

( 2*3. )
be affected by air or climate, nor ever lofe its j*gs4
flavour, though kept without any covering sv~'v^'r
whatever. Each of thefe balls weigh above
five poflnds.
His Excellency diftributed to every gentle
man of his fuite his proportion of the prefents.
Thofe which were peculiarly addreffed to their
Britannic Majesties, were deposited in the lob
by, in the boxes wherein they arrived.
This morning, at one o'clock, the Ambaffa- Sunday r$,
dor, accompanied by his -fuite, but unattended
by any of his guards or fervants, proceeded to
pay a fecond vifit to the Emperor. The obje6t
of this interview was, as we understood, to
make an attempt to open the negociatioh, for '
the purpofe of obtaining that extenfion of com-*,
merce fo anxioufly defired by thd BritiSh Eaft
India Company.
His Excellency did not return till near three
o'clock; and,- on his arrival, appeared to be
very much exhaufted. Mr. Plumb, the inter
preter, gave, however, fuch a favourable ac-
cbunt of the general afpect of the negociation,
as to elevate the hopes of every one concerned
in the iffue of it. He mentioned, that the
Emperor had, through the medium of the
Grand Choulaa, entered upon the buflnefs of
the embaffy with Lord Macartney ; - which, as
far a.s it went, had altogether fucceeded. This
favour-

( 224 )
favourable information appeared to be con
firmed by a fecorid' cargo of prefents from his
Imperial Majefty. They confifted of large
quantities of rich velvets, Silks, and Satins, with
fome beautiful Chinefe lamps, apd rare porce
lain. To thefe were added a number , of calli-
bafh boxes of exquisite workmanShip, beauti
fully carved on the outflde, and flained with a
fcarlet colour, of the utmoft delicacy : the in
flde of them was black, and Shone like japan.
His Excellency made the fame diflribution
as he had before done to the gentlemen of the
fuite; while the prefents addrefled to their
Britannic Majefties were affigned to the'fame
apartment which contained thofe of the pre
ceding day.
The evening Of this day was paffed in great
mirth and festivity by the whole fuite, from the
very favourable Sbrebodings which they now
entertained of the final fuccefs of their impor
tant miffion.

CHAP.

( 22J )

C H A P. XIV.
The Ambaffador vifited by mandarins on the part of
the Emperor, to invite him to court on the anni- '
verfary of his Imperial Majefty's birth-day. — The
whole fuite attended on the occafion. — The imperial
palace defcribed. — Some account of the Emperir. —
A fucceffion of prefents. — Bufinefs tranfacted with
the imperial court. — Particular prefents of the
Emperor of China to the King of Great Britain. —
Defcription of theatrical amufements. — A Britifh
foldier tried by a court martial, and punifhed. —
Leave Jehol.
X HE Ambaffador received the vifits of feve- 1793.
ral mandarins, who came to inform him, that cv — ""T'
' ' September.
as the following day was the anniverfary of the M°nday »«•
Emperor's birth-day, his prefence, and that of
the whole embaffy, would be expected at court.
This morning, at two o'clock, his Excellency, Tuefday xj.
with the whole of the BritiSh fuite, fet out for
his Imperial Majefty's palace, where we ar
rived, with much interruption, in about two
hours, amidft an immenie> crowd of fpectators
tvithout, and a great concourfe of people with-
Q in,

( 226 ) '
»793« in, the palace; the latter conflfting of manda-
September. rins of all claffes and distinctions.
This palace is built on an elevated fitua
tion, and commands an extenfive view of
the mountainous country that furrounds it.
The edifice itfelf is neither lofty or elegant,
but very extenfive ; and contains a very nu
merous range of courts, furrounded with por
ticos, Ornarriented with gilding and colours.
The gardens extend for feveral mile's, and are
furrounded by a ftrong wall about thirty feet
in height. In the front of the palace there is a
large plain, with a considerable lake in the cen
ter of it.
Here we waited feveral hours, till, at length,
the approach of the Emperor was announced,
by the proftrafion of the mandarins as he ad
vanced. This great perfonage was in a very
plain palankin, borne by twenty mandarins of
the firft order ; and were it not for that circum
ftance, he could not have been distinguished
from a common mandarin, as he wore no mark "
or badge of distinction, nor any article of drefs
fuperior to the higher claffes of his fubjects.
The Simplicity of his appearance, it feems, pro
ceeds from that wife policy which distinguishes
his reign ; as it is a favourite principle of his
government to check as much as poffible all
ufelefs luxury, and to encourage ceconomy, >
- , among

C 227 )
among his people. It is from the fame paternal J793-
regard for the fltuation and circumftances of September.
his Subjects, that he has fuppreffed all public
rejoicings on account of his birth- day, in this
lefs flourishing part of his dominions; from the
apprehenflon that the loyal and affectionate
fpirit of the poorer claffes of the people would
diftrefs themfelves, in promoting the feftive ce
lebration of the day. This prohibition, however,
as we understood, reached no further than the
immediate vicinity of the imperial residence;
the birth-day of the fovereign being obferved
vvith great joy and folemnity through every
other part of a grateful empire.
The emperor on this day completed the
eighty-fifth year of his age, as he was in the
fifty-feventh of his reign. Though he had dark,
piercing eyes, the whole of his countenance dif-
covered the mild traits of benignant virtue,
mixed with that eafy dignity of exalted ftation,
which refults rather from internal confciouf-
nefs than exterior grandeur.
The appearance of the fuite was exactly the
fame as on the firft day Of audience ; and we
returned, in an equal State of embarraffment
and fatigue, at .one o'clock. A very large
quantity of prefents foon followed us, conflft
ing of the fame kind of articles as had been
already fent, but of different colours and pat-
Q 2 terp£#

( 228 - ) .
tf93- terns. There were, however, added, on the
Sep^mber. prefent occafion, a profufion of fruits and con
fectionary, fufficient to have furnifhed a fuc-
ceffion of fine deferts, if our Stay had been prb-
longed to twice the period which was deftined
for our abode at Jehol.
The Chinefe poffefs the art of confectionary
in a very fuperior degree, both as to its tafte,
• and the variety of its forms and colours. Their
cakes of every kind are admirably made, and
more agreeable to the palate than any I remem
ber to have tailed in England, or any other
country. Their paltry is alfo as light as any I
have eaten in Europe, and in fuch a prodigious
variety, as the combined efforts of cur heft
European confectioners, I believe, would not
be able to produce.
wednef- This morning the Ambaffador went fo the
imperial palace, but not in the former ftyle of
parade, to have his audience of leave, as the
time of our Stay in Tartary was verging to a
period. His Excellency, at the fame time, transacted
certain official bulineSs at court, which was faid
without referve at the time, by the gentlemen
of the fuite, to be as follows :
The Emperor of China refufed, in the 'firft
inftancc, to Sign, and of courfe, to enter into
any engagement by a written treaty with the
crown

( 229 )
crown o£ Great Britain, or any other nation ;
as fuch a conduct, on his part, would be con
trary to the ancient ufage, and, indeed, an
infringement of the ancient conftitutions of the
empire. At the fame time he was pleafed to
flgnify his high refpect for his Britannic
Majefty and the BritiSh nation ; and that he
felt a ftrong difpofition to grant them greater
indulgencies than any other European power
trading to his dominions : nor was he unwilling
to make fuch a new arrangement of the duties
payable^ by BritiSh Ships arriving at Canton, as
appeared to be a leading object of the negotia
tion. At the fame time, however, he Should be
ever attentive to the real interests of his own
fubjects, an atom of which he would never
Sacrifice; and Should, therefore, withdraw his
favours to any foreign nation whenever it
might appear to be incompatible with the inte
rests of his own ; or that the English Should, by
their conduct in trade, forfeit their preteriflons
to any advantages which might be granted them
in preference to other nations trading to China.
Thefe were the declarations of the Emperor
on the occaflon, which did not, in his opinion,
require any written instrument or Signature to
induce him to realize and fulfil.
At the fame time, to proye the high regard
and efleem the Emperor of China entertained
*Q 3 for

V,

( 230, )
i793« for the King of Great Britain, his Imperial
September. Majefty delivered, from his own hand into that
of the Ambaffador, a very valuable box, con
taining the miniature pictures of all the preced
ing emperors; to which is annexed, a defcription
in verfe by each emperor, , of himfelf, and the
principal features of his government, as well as
rules of conduct recommended to their feveral
fucceffors. The Emperor, on prefenting this gift to the
Ambaffador, fpoke to the* following purport :
" Deliver this caSket to the King your mafter,
with your own hand, and tell, him, though the
prefent may appear to be fmall, it is, in my
\ estimation, the moft valuable that I can give, or
\ my empire can furnifh : for it has been tranfmit-
: ted to me through a long line of my predeceffors,
i and is the laft token of affection which I had
: referved to bequeath to my fon and fucceflor,
as a tablet of the virtues of his ancestors, which
he had only to perufe, as I Should hope, to in-
fpire him with the noble refolution to follow
fuch bright examples ; and, as they had done,
to make it the grand object of his life to exalt'
4he honour of the imperial throne, and advance
the happinefs and prosperity of his people."
. Such were the words delivered by the Empe
ror on the occafion, as communicated by Mr.
1 lumb, the interpreter, and which occafioned, as

( 231 )
as may be imagined, no fmall degree of Specu
lation among the gentlemen of the retinue.
The Ambaffador returned to dinner, and
foon after repaired again to the imperial palace,
with his whole fuite and attendants, to fee a
play., which was expreffly performed as a parti
cular mark of refpect to the. embaffy.
This dramatic entertainment was reprefented
in one of the inner courts of the palace, on a
temporary ftage erected for the purpofe. It was
decorated with a profufion of filk, ribands, and
Streamers, and illuminated with great Splen
dour and elegance.
The performance conflfled of a great variety
of mock battles and military engagements ;
lofty tumbling, as it is expreffed with us, and
dancing both on the tight and flack r*pes ; and
in all thefe exercifes that agility was difplayed,
which would have done no difcredit to the gym-
naftic amufements of Sadler's Wells or Aftley's
Amphitheatre ; but the Skill of the performers
was more particularly aftonifhing in the art of
balancirig, in which they excelled any thing of
the kind I had ever feen. By an imperceptible
motion, as it appeared, of the joints of their
arms and legs, they gave to bafons, jugs, glaffes,
&c. an apparent power of loco-motion, and
produced a progreflive equilibrium, by which
thefe veffels changed their pofltions from one
Q 4 part

( 232 )
,793- part to another of the bodies of the balancers,
September, in a manner fo extraordinary, that I almofi
fufpected the correctnefs of my own fenfes.
The fucceflion of entertainments was con
cluded by a variety of curious deceptions by
flight of hand, which the almoft magical.acti-
vity of Breflaw or Comus has never exceeded.
I Shall mention one of them, which, I muft own,
aftonifhed me, and feemed to have an equal
effect on the reft of the Spectators.
The performer began by exhibiting a large
bafon in every poffible pofition, when he fud-
> denly placed it on the ftage with the hollow part
downwards, and inftantly taking it up again,
difcovered a large rabbit, which efeaped from
the performer, who attempted to catch it, by
taking refuge among the fpectators. This de
ception was perfectly unaccountable to me, as
there were no vifible means whatever of com
munication, by which it was poffible to convey
fo large an animal to the fpot ; the ftage was
alfo covered with matting, fo that it could. not
be conveyed through the floor, which, if that
had been the cafe, muft have been difcovered
by thofe, and there were many of them, who
were within three yards of the juggler ; betides-,
the whole difplay of the trick occupied but a
few feconds. Several other deceptions of a Simi
lar kind prolonged our amufement. The whole of

{ 233 )
©f the entertainment was accompanied by a *793*
band of muficians placed on the ftage. September.
The theatre was filled with perfons of distinc
tion, and formed a very Splendid appearance.
The Ambaffador and his fuite returned about
nine o'clock, having been very much gratified
by the entertainment of the evening.
At noon feveral mandarins came to vifit his ThuTT-
Excellency ; when every individual belonging
to the embaffy received a pipe and tobacco bag
containing a quantity of that herb for fmoaking.
In the feveral vifits which the mandarins of
different claffes paid to the Ambaffador, they
never varied in their exterior appearance, and
changes of raiment do not feem to be an object
of attention in China, as it is, more or lefs, in
every part of Europe. Even the court drefs of
the mandarins differs very little from their ordi
nary habiliments. It confifts of a robe that
falls down to the middle of the leg, and is
drawn round the lower part of the neck with
ribands. On the part which covers the Stomach,
is a piece of embroidery worked on the garment
about fix inches fquare ; and is finished in gold
or filk of different colours, according to the
' rank of the wearer ; this badge of distinction
has its counterpart on a parallel part of the back,
minutely corresponding in pattern and dimen
sions. In winter, it is generally made of velvet,-

( 234 )
*793- vet, and its prevailing colour is blue. The fafh,
September, which, on all other oCcaflons is worn round
the waift, is difpenfed with at court,- and the
drefs is left to its own eafe and natural flow.
, As I am now come to a period when a certain
degree of authority was attempted to be af
firmed, altogether inconfiftent with the charac
ter and privileges of Englifhmen, and which, I
fear, conveyed no favourable impreffion to the
Chinefe of our national character and cuftoms,
I Shall previously flate the orders iffued by Lord
Macartney, and read to the Ship's companies, n
and all perfons of every rank attached to the
fuite, about five o'clock in the evening of the
20th day of July, 1793.
Sealed and figned Macartxey.
" As the Ships and brigs attendant on the
embaffy to China are now likely to arrive in
port a few days hence, his Excellency the Am
baffador thinks it his duty to make the follow
ing obfervations and arrangements :
" It is impoffible that the various important
objects of the embaffy can be obtained, but
through the good will of the Chinefe : that
good will may much depend on the ideas which
they Shall be induced to entertain of the dispo
sition and conduct of the English nation, and
they

( 235 J
they can judge only from the behaviour of the 179^.
majority of thofe who come amongft them. It w^^
muft be confeffed, that the impreffions hitherto
made upon their minds, in confequence of the
irregularities committed by Englishmen at
Canton, are unfavourable even to the degree
of considering them as the worft among Euro-
' peans ; thefe impreffions are communicated to-
that tribunal in the capital, which reports to,
and advifes the Emperor upon all concerns with
foreign countries. It is therefore effential, by a
conduct particularly regular and circumfpect,
to imprefs them with new, more juft, and more
favourable ideas of Englishmen; and to Shew
that even to the loweft officer in the fea or land
fervice, or in the civil line, they are capable of
maintaining by example and by difcipline, due
order, fobriety, and fubordination, among their
respective inferiors. Though the people in China
have not the fmalleft Share in the government,
yet it is a maxim invariably purfued by their fu-
periors, to fupport the meaneft Chinefe in any
difference with a Stranger, and if the occafion
Should happen, to avenge his blood ,: of which,
indeed, there was a fatal inftance not long Since
at Canton, where the gunner of an Englifh
Veffel, who had been very innocently the caufe
of the death of a native peafant, was executed
for it* notwithstanding the utmoft united efforts oa

( 236 )
1793. on the part of the feveral European factories
Sep^mber. a* Canton to fave him : peculiar caution and
mildnefs muft confequently be obferved in every
fort of intercourfe or accidental meeting with
any, the pooreft individual of the country.
" His Excellency, who weli knows that he
need not recommend to Sir Erafmus Gower to
make whatever regulations prudence may dic
tate on the occafion, for the perfons under his
immediate command, as he hopes Capt. Mack
intosh will do for the officers and crew of the
Hindoftan, trufts alfo that the propriety and
neceffity of fuch regulations, calculated to pre-
ferve the credit of the English name, and the
interest of the mother country in thefe remote
parts, will infure a Steady arid cheerful obedi
ence. " The fame motives, he flatters himfelf, will
operate likewife upon all the perfons immedi
ately connected with, or in the fervice of, the
embaffy. " His Excellency declares that he Shall- be
ready to encourage and to report favourably
hereupon the good conduct of thofe who Shall
be found to deferve it ; fo he will think it his
duty, in cafe of mifeondudt or difobedience of
orders, to report the fame with equal exactnefs,
and to fufpend or difmifs tranfgreffors, as the
occafion may require. Nor, if offence Should be

( 237 )
be offered to a Chinefe, or a mifdemeanor of 1793.
any kind be committed, which may be punifh- s^^r,
able by their laws, will he deem himfelf bound
to interfere for the purpofe of endeavouring to
ward off or mitigate their feverity.
" His Excellency relies ,on Lieutenant-Colo
nel Benfon, commandarit of his guard, that he
will have a Strict and watchful eye over them :.
vigilance, as to their perfonal demeanor, is as
requifite in the prefent circumftances, as it is,
though from other motives, in regard to the
conduct of an enemy in time of war. The
guard are to be kept conftaritly together, and
regularly exercifed in all military evolutions ;
nor are any of them to abfent themfelves from
on board fhip, or from whatever place may be
allotted them for their dwelling on Shore, with
out leave from his Excellency, or commanding
officer. None of the mechanics, or fervants, are
to leave the Ship, or ufual dwelling on Shore,
without leave from himfelf, or from Mr. Max
well ; and his Excellency expects, that the gen
tlemen in his train will Shew the example of
fubordination, by communicating their wiShes
to him before they go, on any occaflon, from
ftie Ship,' or ufual dwellipg place on Shore.
" No boxes or package^, of any kind, are to
be removed from the Ship, or, afterwards, from
the place where they Shall be brought on Shore,
Without

( 238 )
1793. without the Ambaffador's leave, or a written
September, order from Mr. Barrow, the comptroller; fuch
order defcribing the nature, number, and di-
menfions of fuch packages.
" His Excellency, in the moft earneft man
ner, requefts that no perfon whatever belonging
to the Ships be fuffered, and. he defires that
none of his fuite, guard, mechanics, or fervants,
prefume to offer for fale, or propofe to pur
chafe, in the way of traffic, the finalleft article
of merchandize of any kind, under any pre
tence whatever, without leave from him previ
ously obtained. The neceffity of avoiding the;
leaft appearance of traffic accompanying an
embaffy to Pekin was fuch, as to induce the
Eaft India Company to forego the profits of a
new market, and deterred them from Shipping
any goods for fale in the Hindoftan, as being
deftined to attend upon the embaffy, the dig
nity and importance of which, in the preju
diced eyes of the Chinefe, would be utterly loft,
and the good confequences expected from it,
even on commercial points, totally prevented,
if any actual tranfactions, though for trifles,
for the purpofe pf gain, fhould be difcovered
amongft any of -the perfons concerned in con
veying, or attending an Ambaffador; of which
the report would foon infallibly fwell into a
general fyflcm of trading. From this Arictnefs
i his

( 239 )
his Excellency will willingly relax whenever fuch 1793.
advances fhall have been made by him in ne- September.
gotiation as will fecure the object of his mif-
fion : and when a permiffion from him to an
European, to difpofe of any particular article
of merchandize, fhall be considered as a favour
granted to the Chinefe purchafer. His Excel-.
lency is bound to punifh, as far as in him lies,
any the flighteft deviation from this regulation ;
he will eafily have it in his power to do fo, in
regard to the perfons immediately in his train,
or fervice. The difciprine of the navy will ren
der it equally eafy to Sir Erafmus Gower, in
refpectto thofe under his immediate command;
and the Eaft India Company have, by their
order of the 5th of September, 1792, and by
their letter of the 8th of the fame month and
year, fully authorized his Excellency to enforce
compliance, with the fame regulation, among
the officers of the Hindoftan. A copy of the
faid order, and an extract from the faid letter,
here follow, in order that Capt. Mackintofh
may communicate the fame to his officers.
His Excellency depends upon him to prevent
any breach or evafion of the fame among any
• of his crew."

At

1 c m y
*793- At a Court of Directors held on Wednefday, the $th
September. of September, 1792,
ff Refolved,
«e That the Right Honourable Lord Vif-
"" count Macartney be authorized to fufpend,
ei or difmifs the commander, or any officer of
" the Hindoftan, who fhall 'be guilty of a
li breach of covenants, or difobedience of or-
"¦ ders from the Secret Committee, or from his
tc Excellency, during the continuation of the -
u embaffy fo China.
(Signed) " W. RAMSEY, Sec."
Extract from the Chairman and Deputy Chairman's*
Letter to Lord Macartney, dated the 8th of Sep
tember, ijgz. '
" The Secret Committee having given or-
sc ders to Captain Mackintofh, of the Hin-
" doflan, to put himfelf entirely under your
" Excellency's direction, as lopg as may be
" neceffary for the purpofe of the embaffy, we
" have inclofed a copy of his instructions, and
" of the covenants which he has entered into,
,e together with an account of his private trade,
iC and that of his officers : there is no intention
" whatever, on the part of the Court, to per-
" mit private trade in any other port, or place,
" than Canton, to which the fhip is ultimately
" deftined, unlefs your Excellency is Satisfied
2 !' that

( 24I ')
f< that fuch private trade will not prove of de- 1793.
" triment to the dignity and importance an- .^mb^.
*f nexed to the embaffy, or to the confequences
" expected therefrom, in which cafe your con-
" fent in writing becomes neceffary to autho-
tf rize any commercial tranfaction by Captain
" Mackintofh, or any of his officers, as ex-
" plained in the instructions from the Secret
" Committee. But as we cannot be too
" guarded with refpect to trade, and the con-
" fequences which may refult from any at-
" tempt for that purpofe, we hereby autho-
" rize your Excellency to fufpend, or difmifs
" the commander, or any officer of the Hin-
" doftan, who Shall be guilty of a breach of
" covenants, or difobedience of orders from the »
" JSecret Committee, or from your Excellency*
" during the continuance of the prefent em-
" baffy." " His Excellency takes this opportunity of ,
declaring alfo, that however determined his
fenfe of duty makes him to forward the objects
of his miffiort, artd to watch, detect* arid punifh,
as far as in his power, any crime, difobedience
of orders, or other behaviour tending to en
danger, or delay the fuceefs of the prefent un
dertaking, or to bring difcredit on the English
character, or occafion any difficulty* or embar
raffment to the embaffy ; fo in the like man-
R ner

( 242 )
J793- ner fhall he feel himfelf happy in being able at
September, all times to report and reward the merit, as
well as to promote the intereft, and indulge
the wiShes, of any perfon who has accompanied
him on this occafion, as much as may be con
sistent with the honour and welfare of tire
public. " In cafe of the abfence or engagements of
his Excellency, at any particular moment, ap
plication may be made in his room to Sir
George Staunton, whom his Majefty was
pleafed to honour with a commiffion of mi
nifter plenipotentiary, to act on fuch occa-
fions." Given on board his Majefty's
fhip the Lion, the ibtb day
of July, 1793. By his Excellency's command.
(Signed)
ACHESON MAXWELL, -, c
EDWARD WINDER, S secretaries.
Having thus given at large, and from the
firft authority, the whole of thofe regulations
which were framed, and with great good fenfe
and true policy, to forward the objects of the
embaffy, I fhall now proceed, to flate certain
circumftances, .which do not altogether appear to

( 243 )
,to be conflflent with, if they may not be cbnli- 1793.
dered by fome, as violations of them. , s^£s„
It was now hinted to all the fervants of the
Ambaffador, that they were hereafter to con
fider themfelves as fubject to military law, and
that the corporeal punifhment ufual in the
army would be applied to them, if they Should
refufe to obey the commands of any of their
Superiors in the fuite. Such an idea, as may
be fuppofed, occafloned no fmall alarm, as
well as an abhorrence in the minds of thofe
who would be affected by a regulation fo con
trary to eveiy principle of right or juftice ; and
when they were at fueh a diftance from their
own happy country, that any one injured by
fuch an act of tyranny, might never again re
turn to the protection of that power which
would avenge it.
To the honour of Sir George Staunton, I
have the fatisfaction to fay, from the general
report in the palace, that he reprobated, in very
fevere terms, the propofition of a meafure fo
fubverfive of thofe privileges, which, as Eng-
lifhmen, we carried with us into the heart of
Tartafy ; and which no power of the embaffy
had a legal right to invade.
This Strange extension of military difeipline
was certainly propofed to Lord Macartney by
fc>me officious perfons in his fuite ; but the ex-
R -2 perimeht,

v..

(" 244 .)
I793>. perirnent, very happily for all parties, Was never
September, attempted to be made.
When Lieutenant-colonel Benfon ordered a
court-martial to be, held on one of his foldiers*
and faw the fentence of it carried into execu
tion, he djd that which he had a legal power
to do, however indifcreet the exercife Pf it
might be : but in the verge of an embaffy,
, which, within its own circle, carries the liber
ties of Englifh fubjects to the remoteft regions-
of the globe, any attempt to infringe them, de-
ferves the fevereft reprobation.
This morning, James Cootie, a private in
the infantry, who compofed a part of the Am
baffador's guards, was reported to the com
manding officer, for' having procured, by the
affiftance of a Chinefe foldier, a fmall quantity-
of famtchoo, a fpirituous liquor already de
fcribed : for which offence he was immediately
confined, and foon after tried by1 a cotirUmar-
tial, confifting of a certain number of his com
rades* and a corporal as president ; and the
fentence pronounced on this unfortunate man
was approved by Lieutenant-colonel Benfon.
In confequence of this fentence, all the Bri-*
fifh foldiery were drawn up in the outer court
of the palace; and, after obferving all the forms
ufual on Such occafions, the culprit was tied up
fa one of the' pillars of the great portico, and, in

\.

( 245 )
in the, prefence of a great number of the Chi- ^J^f_,
nefe, he received the punifhment of Sixty laShes, September.
administered with no common feverity.
The mandarins, as well as thofe natives of
the inferior claffes who were prefent, expreffed
their abhorrence at this proceeding, while fome
of them declared, that they .could not reconcile
this conduct in a people, who profeffed a reli
gion, which they reprefented to be fuperior to
all others, in enforcing fentiments of benevo
lence, and blending the duties of juftice and of
mercy. One of the principal mandarins, who
knew a little of the English language, expreffed
his own fentiments, and thofe of his brethren,
by faying, " Englishman too much cruel, too
much bad."
Of the nature of the foldier's offence, I do
not pretend to determine ; , nor fhall I obferve
on theneceffity of applying the feverity of mili
tary difcipline on the occafion.; thefe things
are not within the fcope, of my information or
experience : but a little common-fenfe alone is
neceffary to determine on the impolicy of exhi- ,
biting a kind of punifhment which is unknown
in China, and abhorrent to the nature of the
people, in the prefence of fo many of them ; '
as from their numbers, and our general igno
rance of the language, it was impoffible to ex
plain or juftify it to them, by the ufage and
R 3 policy

( 246 )
1793. policy of our laws. Whether this punifhment
September. was neceffary to the difeipline or good order of
the troops, I do not, as I before obferved, prp-
pofe to confider ; but of this I am fure, that it
was by no means neceffary to make it a public
Spectacle, and tq^ rifque the unfavourable im
preffions which it might, and, indeed, did make
inthe minds of the Chinefe, before whom it was
purpofely exhibited.
This meafure, as I have reafon to believe,
Was very much canvaffed at the time when it
was carried into execution, and justified on the
policy of convincing the Chinefe of our love of
order, and the rigour we employed in punish
ing any infringement of it. That it had, as I
fufpected it would have, the contrary effect, the
looks, geftures, and expreffions of the Chinefe
prefent on the occafion are unanfwerable tef-
, timonies. Sir Erafmus Gower, however, as I was in
formed on my return to the Lion, went a ftep
further at Chufan, when She lay at anchor off
that ifland, in the Yellow Sea. The fact to
which I allude is known to every one at that
time on board the fhip.
r A Chinefe had come on board the Englifh
man of war, from Chufan, and brought with
him a fmall bottle of famtchoo, a kind of dram,
in expectation of exchanging it with the failors for

;"\

( 247 )
for fome European article. A difcovery, how
ever, being made of his deflgn, Sir Erafmus
Gower ordered him to be feized and punifhed
by the boatfwain's mate with twelve laShes ;
and to add to the bad effects of fuch a condudt,
in the prefence of a great many of the Chinefe
who were then on board.
This is one of thofe irreconcileable circum
ftances which occasionally happened in the
progrefs and completion of this embaffy : be-
caufe an application to the mandarins would
have had all the effect which could be defired
in redreffing the grievance, and, at the fame
time, have affumed the form of a proper and
regular proceeding.

R 4 CHAP.

,( 24? )

CHAP. XV.
Leave the city of Jehol. — Defcription of two rocks
in its neighbourhood.- — Circumftances of the jour
ney. — Arrive at Pekin. — Arrangements made
there. — The remainder of the prefents prepared to
be fent to the Emperor. — Sicknefs prevails among
the foldiers.— The Ambaffador attends his Imperial
Majefty. — Brief account of his palace. — Further
arrangements refpetting the haufehold of the em
baffy.— Prefents to the Emperor and the Grand
Choulaa. — The Emperor goes to Yeumen-man-
yeumen to fee the prefents. — His perfon and drefs
particularly defcribed. — Prefents received from court
for their Britannic Majefties. — Circumftances con
cerning thofe which had been fent to the Emperor.
• — Report prevails that the embaffy is to leave
Pekin.
. XT was notified by orders iffued this morning,
v— v— ' that the embaffy was to quit Jehol on the mor-
gep ember. ' .. . _ .'
.Friday ^o. row, to proceed to Pekm, where the final iffue
of it would be known and fettled.
In the evening the whole of the heavy bag
gage was fent off for Pekin. At nine there wag
a very heavy ftorm of thunder, lightning, and
rain,

( 249 )
rain, which continued, without any intermif- i./(v,
flon, till four o'clock of the following morn- "—y^
° Septembtr.
ing. This morning, at eight o'clock, the BritiSh Saturday «.
embaffy took their leave of the city of Jehol,
after a Strict confinement of fourteen days ; as
the liberty with which we had been flattered
foon after our arrival had never been granted.
We paffed the Emperor's pagoda at nine
o'clock, where we faw an Ambaffador and his
fuite, from the King of Cochin China, refrefh-
ing themfelves. It is an annual vifit to pay
tribute from that Prince to the Emperor of
China. The confufion and folicitude which attended
the entry into Jehol prevented me from giving
a defcription of the two rocks, which are among
the moft extraordinary objects I have ever feen
or read of, and muft not be paffed by without
fuch a particular defcription, as it is in my
power to give.
The firft is an immenfe pillar, or column of
folid rock, which is feen from the palace, oc
cupied by the embaffy at Jehol, at the diftance,
as it appeared to me, of about four miles. It
is fituated on the pinnacle of a large mountain,
and near the verge of it ; from which it rifes, in
an irregular manner, to the height of, at leaft,
one hundred feet. Its bafe is fmall, but it gra
dually

( 250 )
^793- dually thickens towards the top ; and from fe^
September, veral of its projecting parts iffue Streams of the
fineft water.
The upper part of this enormous rock, which
is rather flat, appears to be covered with Shrubs
and verdure ; but as it is abfolutely inacceffible,
there is no poflibility of knowing the kind of
plants which crown it. When its own indivi
dual height is confidered, and added to the
eminence where nature, or, perhaps, fome con-
vulfion of the elements, has placed it, the paf-
fenger in the valley. below cannot look up to it
without an equal degree of horror and amaze
ment. It is efteemed, and with great propriety,
by the natives, as among the firft natural curi-
olities of their country ; and is known by the
name of Panfuiafhaung.
The other rock, or rather clutter of rocks, is
alfo a very ftupendous object, and ftands on the
fummit of a very grand, though not a fertile,
mountain. They are alfo in the form of pillars,
and appear, except in one particular point of
' view, to be a folid rock ; though they are ac
tually feparated from each other by an interval
pf feveral feet, Their height rifes to near two
hundred feet, as I underftand, from a correct
mathematical admeaflirement.
Oppofite to the mountain which forms the
bale, rifes another of a fimilar appearance, though

( 2SI )
though it flopes with a more gentle declivity, 1793.
down to a charming valley, that is formed by s^mber.'
them, and -is watered by a pretty rivulet,
abounding in fine, trout.
In the coUrfe of this afternoon we arrived at
the imperial palace of Callachottueng, where
we had the misfortune to lofe Jeremiah Reid,.N
one of the royal artillery, who died of the
bloody flux, with which he had been afflicted
but a very few days. Several men belonging to
the military detachments were attacked with the
fame complaint.
This morning, -at one o'clock, the body of Sunday zz.
the deceafed foldier was removed to the next
village, to remain their till our arrival, to re
ceive the interment which was due to him.
This meafure was fuggefted by the mandarin*
who expreffed- great apprehension left the cir
cumftance Should reach the Emperor, and
awaken bis alarm respecting any contagious
diforder. At fix o'clock the embaffy continued its
route, and at the fmall village of Quangchim,
where, it flopped to breakfaft, the body of our
deceafed companion was interred with military
honours. In the courfe of this morning intelligence
was received by the mandarin, Van-Tadge-In,
that his Imperial Majefty had left Jehol, on his
return,

( 252 ) , '¦
*793- return to Pekin : he, therefore, requefted the
September. Ambaffador and his train to exert themfelves in
rnaking two ftage? v.'thort halting, that the
palaces might be left to receive the attendants
of the Emperor.
In confequence of this -unexpected requisi
tion, we arrived, after a very fatiguing journey,
at the town of Waungchauyeng, in the vicinity
of the great wall, of which ftupendous object
I took another and a laft view ; but without any
novelty of impreffion, or the acquisition of an
additional circumftance concerning it.
Monday i.y. At a very early hour we continued our route ;
the air was cold and piercing, and we break
fafted at a place called Caungchumfau ; after
which we paffed a prodigious number of carts,
containing the Emperor's baggage. Arrived at
three o'clock at Cubacouoo, as the ftation of
the day,
Tuefday 24. We proceeded on our journey at four in the
morning, by the affiftance of a very bright
moon, and took our firft meal at the town of
Chanchin ; our fecond regale was taken at Me-
cucang, and we then proceeded to Whiazow,
the laft ftage of the day.
wednef. Breakfaft was this morning provided for the
iJ *5' embaffy in the barn-yard of a fmall village ;
and the journey of the day was finifhed at
Nanfhifhce. There I was' furprifed by the Sight of

{¦ 253 )
©f feveral fields of turnips of an 'excellent qua- 1793.
"ty. September.
This day finished our returning journey from Thurf-
Tartary, which, as it was by the fame route
that conducted us thither, and offered no no
velty that deferved attention, I have difpatched
with little more than the names pf thofe places
where we flopped for refreshment, or repofe.
After a breakfaft at Chingeho, which we found
lefs plentiful than on former occafions, we ar
rived early in the afternoon at Pekin, and
proceeded to the palace of the British Ambaf
fador. His Excellency employed a great part of this F"day zj.
morning in examining the feveral arrangements
which had been made in the palace during his
abfence; the whole of which, was favoured
with his approbation. The gentlemen of the
fuite alfo received their particular baggage in
their refpective apartments, and the final diflri
bution of the different parts of the palace wras
fettled. In the principal room of the Ambaffador's
apartments, the ftate canopy, brought from
England, was irrimediately put up. It was
made of flowered crimfon fatin, with feftoons
and curtains, enriched with fringes of gold. On
the back part of it the arms of Great Britain ap
peared in the richeft embroidery ; the floor be
neath it was fpfead with a beautiful carpet, on
which '

( 254 )
,793- which were placed five chairs of flate, of the
September, fame materials as the canopy, and fringed with
gold. The center chair immediately under the
coat of arms was elevated on a platform above
the reft, to which there was an afcent of two
fteps. The whole had been arranged with great
tafte in England, and, in its prefent fltuation,
made a very Superb appearance, in every refpect
fuited to the occafion for which it was erected.
At the other extremity of the apartment, oppo
fite to the canopy, were hung the whole length
portraits of their Britannic Majeflies ; fo that
this chamber wanted no decoration appropriate
to the exterior of diplomatic dignity.
Thefe difpofitions being completed, and in a
manner equally fuited to the Splendor of the
embaffy, as to the individual convenience of
thofe who compofed it, nothing remained to
perfect the domeftic establishment, but the re
gulation of the different tables to* be provided
for the feveral departments of the houfehold ;
which it was thought proper to delay till the ar
rival of the Emperor in Pekin.
Captain Mackintofh propofed to fet offon the
Monday to join his fhip, the Hindoftan, which
lay at Chufan, and tp proceed to Canton ; there
to take in his cargo for England, having feen,
as he conceived, a favourable commencement
of this important embaffy, in which his- matters,
3 the

( HS )
the Eaft India Company, had fuch a predomi- 1793.
pant interest. j^Shi.
This day the Emperor of China returned to Saturday »s.
the imperial palace in Pekin ; and his. arrival
was announced by a grand difcharge of artil
lery. The occupations of this day in the palace of
the Ambaffador were entirely confined to wri
ting letters for England, of which Capt. Mack
intosh was to take the charge ; it being then
considered by Lord Macartney as a fettled ar
rangement with the court of Pekin, that the
Englifh embaffy Should remain there during the
winter, to carry on the important negotiations
with which it was entrusted.
. His Excellency received the vifits of feveral Sunday 29,
mandarins. Certain packages defigned for the
Emperor were prepared to be prefented to his
Majefty : they conflfled of fuperfine broad, and
other cloths of Britifli manufacture.
In confequence of the ficknefs that prevailed Monday $3.
among the foldiers belonging to the embaffy, it
was thought expedient to eftabliSh an hofpital
for their more fpeedy cure, as well as to fepa
rate the invalids from thofe who were in health.
and capable of duty. Dr. Gillan and Dr. Scott
were accordingly defired to examine a range of
buildings behind the Ambaffador's apartments,
with an/open area beyond them, and on the
report

( 256 )
t£92^ report of thofe gentlemen, it was determined
September, that they Should be formed into an hofpitaL
Accordingly feveral arrangements took place,
to render it comfortable to thofe who were un--
der the ncceffity of taking up an occasional abode
in it. At this time, of the fifty men which
compofed the guards of the embaffy, eighteen
were in fuch a ftate as to require the attentive
care and Skill of the phyfician.
oaober. A mandarin came from the Emperor to re-
' queft that the ordnance prefents might be im
mediately fent to the palace of Yeumen-man-
yeumen, where they were to be proved arid ex
amined : but the Chinefe thought themfelves.
equal to the tafk of proof and examination ;
for the BritiSh artillery foldiers were never em
ployed, as was expected, to difplay their fu
perior Skill in the fcience of engineering and
gunnery. The chariots, &c. were alfo removed to the
fame place, and the fadler and carpenters be
longing to the embaSSy, with fome affiflant me^
chanics, were fent thither to unpack and harig
them on their carriages : this was done, but the
workmen were not permitted to adjuft them
fully for presentation ; and came back in the
evening to. Pekin -without receiving further or
der*- to complete their work, and explain the
mode of applying the different machines, un der

( 257 )
der their direction, to the refpective ufes for 1793.
which they were defigned. olTte^
The Ambaffador received a formal intima- wednef-
tion to wait on the Emperor as to-morrow ;
when it was hoped and anxioufly expected that
the final ratifications would take place between
the ministers of the two courts, and prepare
the way for entering upon the projected nego
tiation, from which fo many advantages were
expected to be derived to the commerce of
Great Britain. •
The Sick were this day removed to that part
of the palace which had been fitted up as an
hofpitah Another package of prefents was opened and
examined preparatory to their being fent to his
Imperial Majefty.
The Ambaffador, in obedience to the requi- Thurf-;
fltion of yefterday, went in a private manner
to the Emperor's palace, where bufinefs was
tranfacted between his Excellency and the
officers of ftate ; and it was a report among
the Englifh fuite, but on what foundation I
Cannot tell, that the requifitions of the British
Minifter were fubmitted to the conflderation of
the imperial Council. This conference lafted
two hours, but therefult of it was not, as may
be fuppofed, a matter of general communica
tion ; but there were no apparent reafons to
S ftvp-

( 258 )
fuppofe that it was not favourable to the fuccef&
of the embaffy.
As I had this day attended the Ambaffador*
t fhall juft mention what I faw of the impe
rial palace, which will be comprifed in a very
few lines.
It is fituated In the center of the city, and
furrounded by a wall about twenty feet in
height,' which is coveted with plafter painted
of a red colour, and the whole croWned or
capped with green varnished tiles. It is faid
to occupy a fpace that may be about feven
English miles in circumference, and is fur
rounded by a kind of gravel walk : it includes
a vaft range of gardens, full, as I was in
formed, of all thefe artificial beauties which
decorate the gardens of China. I can only fay,
that the entrance to the palace is by a very ftrong
ftone gateway, which fupports- a building of
two ftories ; the interior court is Spacious, and
the. range of building that fronts the gateway
tifes to the height of three ftories, arid each of
them is ornamented with a balcony or project
ing gallery, whofe railing, pahtadoes, and pil
lars, are enriched with gilding ; the roof is
covered vyith yellow Shining tiles, and the body
of the edifice is plaftered and painted with
various colours. This outer court is the only
part of the palace which I had" an opportu- ¦ - nity

,( 259 )
pity of feeing, and is a fine example Pf Chi^
nefe architecture; The gate is guarded by a
large body of foldiers, and a certain number of
mandarins of the firft clafs are always in at
tendance about him.
Of the magnificent and fplendid apartments.
this palace contains for private ufe or public
fervice ; of its gardens appropriated to pleaflire,
or for the fole production of fruit and flowers,-
of which report faid fo much, I am not autho
rised to fay any thing* as my view of the whole
Was very confined ; but,, though I am ready to
acknowledge that the palace had fomething
impoling in its appearance, when compared
with the diminutive buildings of the city that
furround'it, I could fee nothing that- difpofed
me to believe the extraordinary accounts which
I had heard and read of . the wonders of the im
perial refidence of Pekin.
It cannot be fuppofed for a moment, that Friday 4.
thofe who had no other concern in the em
baffy* than as a part of the retinue neceffary
for its exterior conduct and appearance* Should
be informed of any of the official circumftances
of it ; they could, therefore* only judge of its;
.progrefs from the general arrangements which
were made concerning its domeftic eftabliSh-<
ment. It was, however, with. particular Satif-
faction that the following directions were this
S 2 day

( ifid )
J793' day received from the Ambaffador, relative tP
Oa0ber.: the future order and difpofition of the tables
for the different departments of the houfehold ;
as an intention to domeftic buflnefs feemed to
announce his Excellency's opinion concerning
the permanency of our residence at Pekin ; and,
Of courfe, an entire dipofltion in the court of
China to give the negotiation every advantage
that might be derived from frequent conference
and deliberate confultation.
The order of the tables was as follows :
The table of the Ambaffador was ordered for
himfelf alone ; with two covers for gentlemen
of the fuite, who were to be invited in daily
fucceffion to diPe with him.
The next in precedence was that of Sir
George Staunton, at which he was to be ac
companied by Mr. MaXwcll, one of the fecre-
taries, Doctor Gillan* Captain Mackintosh,
while he remained at Pekin, Mr. Barrow, and
Mafter Staunton. The table of Lieutenant-
colonel Benfon was to be attended by the Lieu
tenants Parifh and Crewe, Doctor Scott, Meffrs.
Hickey, Baring, Winder, Alexander, arid
Doctor Dinwiddie.
The foregoing difpofition of the houfehold
commenced on this day ; but it was thought
proper to continue the Chinefe difhes till the
kitchen in the palace was completed, when a
certain

( 26l )
certain proportion of Englifli cookery was to T793-
be blended with that of the country. To com- oa'ober.
plete the table arrangements, the chefls con
taining the fervice of plate were removed to the
apartments of the Ambaffador, in order to be
prepared for general ufe.
The cabinets of BritiSh manufacture were
conveyed by Chinefe porters to the imperial
palace. A large quantity of plated goods, hardware, Saturday 5.
and cutlery, were unpacked at Sir George
Staunton's apartments, a considerable quantity
of which was damaged. There were alfo feve
ral of Argand's lamps, with a great variety of ,
watches, trinkets, jewellery, &c. &c. The
whole" of this cargo was equally divided be
tween the Emperor and the Grand Choulaa.
The carpenters with feveral affiflants were
fent to Yeumen-manyeumen, to clean and
complete the carriages, and alfo to fet up the
model of the Royal Sovereign, an Englifh
flrft-rate man of war.
The Emperor himfelf came to the palace ;
and, after he had taken a view of the prefents,
his Majefty was, pleafed to order eight ingots
of filver to be given to each perfon 1 which
were inftantly received.
The account I have given of the perfon of
the Emperor was from a partial view as he was
S 3 feated

( z6z )
feated.in a palankin: I Shall* therefore* re*
peat the more particular description of him,
which was given by the fix Englilh artificers.
who were employed in fitting up and arranging
the prefents, when he came to view them,
and who were the immediate objecls of the
imperial generofity which has juft been men
tioned v
The Emperor is about five feet ten inches
in height, and of a Slender, but elegant form ;
his complexion is comparatively fair, though
his eyes are dark ; his nofe is rather aquiline,
and the whole of his countenance prefents a
perfect regularity of features, which by no
means announce the great age he is faid to
have attained ; his perfon is attracting, and his
deportment accompanied by affability, which,
without leffening thq dignity of the prince,
evinces the amiable character of the man.
His. drefs confifted pf. a loofe robe of yellow
filk, a cap of black velvet with a red ball on
the top, and adorned with a peacock's feather,
which is the peculiar distinction of mandarins
of the firft clafs. He wore filk boots embroi
dered with gold, and a fafh of blue filk girded
his waift,
- As to the opinion which his Imperial Ma
jefty formed of the prefents, we- could not
learn, as he never communicated it, at leaft, to

( 263 >
to any of thofe mandarins, by whom it wou|d
have been conveyed to the palace of the BritiSh
embaffy. We only knew, at this time, that the
two camera obfeuras were returned, foolishly
enough, as more fuited to the amufement of
children* than the information of men of fci
ence. A large number of bales, containing various
kinds of broad and narrow cloths of English
manufacture, together with a Conflderable
quantity of camlets, two barrel organs, and the
remainder of fuch prefents as were not da
maged, were removed from the palace by the
Chinefe employed on thefe occaflons. Mr,
Plumb* the interpreter, fometimes accompapied
the prefents to explain the nature and applica
tion of them, or performed that office to th©
mandarins, previous to their departure.
As it now was become a matter of certainty
that the embaffy would remain- for fome time
at Pekin, the fuperb faddles which had beep
brought over for his Excellency, and Sir
George Staunton, were unpacked and got ready*
with all the elegant furniture, for immediate
ufe. , A very large quantity of prefents were fenfc
from the Emperor to their Britannic IVIajefties,
accompanied with others for the Ambaffador
S 4 and.

' • ( 264 )
1793* and his fuite ; which were, as ufual, diftributed
oaober. among them.
Sunday 6. At noon his Excellency went, with no other
attendants than two gentlemen of his retinue
and one fervant, to vifit the Emperor ; but,
on his arrival at court, he very much alarmed
the gentlemen with him by fainting away ; he
was immediately conveyed home, and conti-..
nued to -be very ill during the remainder of the
day. The intended interview, therefore, was
* not effected in confequence of his fudden in-;
^disposition. In the forenoon of this day the fervants of
; the embaffy were fummoned to the apartments
of Sir George Staunton, and the foldiers to
thofe of Lieut. Col. Benfon ; when each perfon
received four pieces of fllk, four pieces of don-
garee, (a fort of coarfe nankeen) and a junk
of filver, being a fquare folid piece of that
metal, weighing Sixteen ounces, as a prefent
from his Imperial Majefty.
The gentlemen and mechanics were difmilfed
from their attendance at the palace of Yeumen-:
manyeumen ; for, as all the optical, mecha-r
nical, and mafhernatical inflruments were re-.
moved from thence, their prefence was no
longer peceffary. Befides, feveral of thefe
prefents, when a trial of them was made before
the mandarins, were found to fail in the ope
rations

( 265 )
rations and powers attributed to them; and 1793.
others of them did not excite that furprife and oasG
admiration in the breafls of the Chinefe phi-
lofophers, which Dr. Dinwiddie and Mr. Bar
row expected, who immediately determined
upon the ignorance that prevailed in China,
and the grofs obftinapcy of the people.
A report was in circulation this day through
out the palace, that the embaffy was to quit
Pekin in the beginning of the week ; a cir
cumftance fo contrary to the general eXpecta-;
tion, that it did not at firft meet with the ere-*
d/it which it was afterwards found tp deferve,

CHAP.

~v

( 266 )

CHAP. XVI.
Orders iffuedfor the fuite to prepare for an immediate
departure from Pekin. — Ihe Emperor refufes. to-
allow of any delay. — Great confufion occafloned by
. this fudden departure. — The embaffy leaves Pekin ;
yeturns to Tong-tchew. — Order of the junks which
are to take the 'embaffy to Canton'. — Difficulties
, .refpetling the baggage. — Ihe junks enter a canal ;
defcription of it.— ^Circumftances of the voyage. —
View and cultivation of the country. — The Chinefe
' poft. defcribed. — Pafs through feveral large cities ;
a general account of them.
1793* JL HE carpenters were employed in ftrcngth-
oaober. ening the cafes that contained the prefents from
011 ay 7" the Emperor of China to their Britannic Ma-
jefties. In the afternoon the report of yeflerday wras.
confirmed by an order, iffued by the Ambaffa
dor to the whole fuite, to prepare for their de- ,
parture from Pekin, on Wednefday. Our fur
prife at fuch unexpected intelligence may be*
readily conceived, but the mortification which
appeared throughout the palace on the occafion,
was at leafl equal to the afloniShment ; for in
one

( 267 )
one moinent, as it were, all the domeftic ar^
rangements which had been formed, with every
attention to individual comfort and repofe, were
overthrown ;— while our fatiguing pilgrimage
was to be renewed, not only with all the hu
miliation that accompanies a forced fubmiflion
to peremptory power, but with thi; painful de-
fpondency which arifes from the fudden annihi
lation of fanguine and well-grounded hope.
But, though we might, in the firft moments of,
furprife, be difpofed to feel fomething for our
felves, fuperior considerations foon fucceeded,
and we forgot the trifle of perfonal inconveni
ence, in the failure of a political meafure which
had been purfued with fo much labour, hazard,
and perfeverance ; had been ' fupported with
fuch enormous expenfe, and to -which our
country looked with eager expectation, for the
aggrandizement of its commercial interefts.
There was, however, no remedy : and nothing
now copld be done but to ufe every endeavour
to prolong the period affigned to the departure
of the embaffy, that there might be fufficient
time to make the neceffary preparations > for
leaving Pekin with convenience ; and that the
Ambaffador might pot appear to be turned out
of the metropolis of a country, .where he had
jreprefented the crown of Great Britain.
4 For

( 268 )
For thefe reafons, and they were, it muft be
acknowledged, . of fome importance, the atten
dant mandarin was. requefted to ftate to the
prime minifter the, impoffibility X)f our depar
ture at fo-fhort a notice, not only without very
great inconvenience, but abfolute injury; as it
would be impoffible to pack up and arrange the
baggage, &c. of the Ambaffador and his fuite,
in a manner to tranlport it with fafety, in fo
Short a time as was thep allotted for. that pur
pofe. This commiffion he readily undertook to ex
ecute ; and, in the evening, he returned with
the permiffion of the Grand Choulaa, to delay
the departure of the British embaffy till Friday,
which would have given time fufficient to make
every neceffary preparation.
Tuefday g. The mandarin came with a ceunter-order of
the.permiffion of yeflerday, from the Emperor
himfelf, who expreffly commanded the Ambaf
fador, and all his retinue, to quit Pekin en the
next day. They were thus thrown into a<-
renewed flate of confufion,, wluch I Shall not
attempt to defcribe.
It wa.s reported in the palace, by the Chinefe*;
that the Emperor having considered the bufinefs
as completed between the two courts, expreffed
his furprife that the Englifh minifter Should;
wifh to. make an unneccflary flay at Pekin, and pot

¦A
( 16$ )
pot be eager to return to his own country. His '793*
Imperial Majefty was alfo laid to be alarmed at oaober.
the number of fick perfons in the retinue of the
embaffy, and to apprehend the communication
of a contagious diforder among his fubjects^
It' was alfo reported, that when the brafs mor- j
tars were tried in the prefence of the Emperor, /
his Majefty admired the- flail and ingenuity of?
thefe engines of deftruction, but deprecated the j
fpirit of a people who employed them ; nor ;
could he reconcile their improvements in the :
fyftem of deftruction to the benign fpirit which ,
they reprefented as the foul, and operating 1
principle, of their religion.
Many other reports of a flmilar nature were '¦;
propagated ; but the reafon affigned by the
Chinefe- government, for thus urging the de
parture of the Ambaffador, was the near ap
proach of winter, when the rivers- would be
frozen, and the journey to Canton, through the
northern provinces, be crowded with inconve
nience and impediment.
- Whatever policy governed the councils of
China on this occafion; whether it was 'an
enlarged view of national ipterefl, which it was
fuppofed the propositions of Great Britain
would not tend to advance, or any difguft or
prejudice proceeding from mifconduct, and
mifmanagement in the embaffy itfelf, the man ner

>(
/

( 276 )
ner in which the Ambaffador . was difrriiSTed
from Pekin was ungracious and mortifying in
the extreme. For even if it is fuppofed to be a
policy of the Chinefe government, that no fo
reign minifter Shall be received, but on parti
cular occaflons,- and that he is not fuffered to
remain in the country when he has finished his
particular miflion ; it does not appear that the
bufinefs was at all advanced which Lord Ma
cartney was employed to negotiate ; and he
certainly would not have entered into any do
meftic arrangements, if he had not considered
himfelf as fecure of remaining at Pekin through
out the winter. He mPft have been encouraged
to believe that his residence would not only be
permitted, but acceptable to his Imperial Ma
jefty ; and that there was a very friendly difpofi
tion in the councils of China towards the enter
ing into a treaty with Great Britain, respecting
a more enlarged fyftem of commercial inter-
courfe between the two countries.
The jealoufy of the Chinefe government had
fo far fubfided as to exprefs a wifh for an em*
baSfy from this country, and afterwards to re
ceive it. The power of Great Britain, its pof-
feffions in the Eaft Indies, with the manner in
which they have been acquired, and the gene
ral ftate of Europe, are fubjects by no means
unknown at the court of Pekin ; nor was the.
English

( 271 )
'Epglilh fettlement at Chufan, or the manner in
which it was deftroyed, altogether forgotten.
The Emperor himfelf had not only manifested
a refpect for the Britifh embaffy, by the great
attentions which had accompanied its progrefs*
but difcovered an impatient defire-to receive it,"
by inviting it to its residence in Tartary, when
he was fo foon to return to Pekin. In Short,-
there was no apparent public reafon, when the
Ambaffador was once received, why he Should
not be permitted to proceed in his negotiation :
but, even if any change had taken place in
the mind of the Emperor, or any prejudice arifen
againft the . embafly, from any indifcretion or
miSconduct in the management Of it, *»• which
might induce the court of China to put an im
mediate termination to it ; it is wholly irrecon
cilable to the common rules of political deco
rum and civility, as well as the principles of
juftice and humanity, that an Ambaffador, of
fo much confequence as Lord Macartney,
ih®uld be difmilfed, under his peculiar circum
ftances* without the leaft ceremony ; and be
not only ordered to depart without allowing the
time neceffary to make the common arrange
ments for his journey, but alfo refufed a refpite
only of two days to his urgent felicitations. In
Aiert, we entered Pekin like paupers j we re
mained

( 27Z )
*793* riiained in it like prifoners ; arid we quitted il
boob*, hke vagrants.
This day, - — — Newman,, a marine, who*
with three of his comrades, had been taken from
on board the Lion, to fill the vacancies occa
sioned by the death of fome of the foldiers be
longing to the embafly, died of a flux ; and to
prevent this circumftance from being kPown, his
corpfe was conveyed away in the night.
Lord Macartney fent his own ftate carriage
as a prefent to the Grand Choulaa, who refufed
to accept it. It was then re-demanded* to be-un-
flung and packed up ; but no anfwer whatever
was returned ; and fo Short was the period al
lotted us to flay, and fo much was to fye done in
it, that there was no time to make farther inqui
ries concerning the fate of this chariot, or the
reafons of fuch an ungracious behaviour on the
¦part of the minifter by whom it was refufed.
The hurry and confufion of this day is be
yond defcription ; and if the foldiers had not
been called in to affift in packing the baggage
and Stores, a much greater part muft have been
left behind, that actually became a prey to the
Chinefe. The portraits of their Majefties were taken
down, but as the cafes in which they had come
from England, had been broke up for fixtures
in- the apartments, a few deals, haftily nailed
together,

( 273 )
together, were now their only protection. As 1793.
for the ftate canopy, it was riot taken down, but oaober.
abfolutely torn from the wall ; as the original
cafe that contained it had been alfo employed
in various convenient ufes, and there was not
time to make a new one. The ftate chairs were
prefented to fome of the mandarins ; arid the ,
canopy was given to fome of Lord Macartney's
fervants : though, in the fcramble, the Chi
nefe contrived to come in for a Share. They
alfo purloined a very large quantity of wine ;
nor was it poffible, in fuch a fcene of hurry
and confufion,' to prevent thofe opportunities
which fhey were on the watch to feize. In one
way or other, however, the public baggage,
Stores, furniture, &c. were jumbled together as
Well as circumftances would admit ; and no
paips or activity were wanting in thofe em
ployed to perform that fudden and unexpected
duty. The whole of the fuite was occupied, at a
very early hour of this rnorning, in getting their
packages in rCadinefs, which were taken away
by the Chinefe appointed to convey them along
the road. The whole of the embaffy foon fol
lowed. Newman, the marine, was buried on
the road to Tong-tchew, and at that town we
arrived in the evening, where we found a great
change in the article of out accommodations.
T The

( 274 )
1793' The apartments now allotted to us, were no-
OAjbe,-. thing more than temporary Sheds, hung with
Straw matting.
Thuifdayio On going to the river flde we found the junks
ready to receive us ; and when the circum
ftances of the embarkation were fettled, the vef
fels were arranged in the following order.
No. i. The Ambaffador.
2. Sir George and Mafter Staunton.
5. Captain Mackintosh, Mr. Maxwell,
Mr: Barrow, and Dr. Gillan.
4. Lieutenant-colonel Benfon, with the
Lieutenants Parifh and Crewe.
5. Meffrs.. Winder, Barring, Huttner,
? and Plumb.
6. The Doctors Dinwiddie and Scott,
with Mefs. Hickey and Alexander.
7. The Muficians, Mechanics.
The mandarin, Van-Tadge-In, and his ' at
tendants, were in Separate junks.
All thefe matters being finally adjufted, his
Excellency, with Sir George Staunton, &cwent
on board their junks : while the gentlemen
, were employed in, getting their baggage info
their respective veffels, which exhibited a new
and fuperior feene of confuflon to any we had
yet experienced. There was, in the firft place,
no fmall difficulty in affofting the junks, with
the perfons who belonged to thern Nor were
there

Oftober.

( 275 ) • ;
there a fufficient number of coolies to transport tyfo
the different effects on board the veffels. In
Short, thofe attentions which were Shewn to
the Ambaffador on his former abode in this
city, feemed to have been forgotten ; and the
place which was now appropriated to receive
the baggage, was a fmall fpot, on the flde of
the river, and protected only by a fereen of

matting.

I have already mentioned the Strange conduct
of the Grand Choulaa, reflecting the chariot
which he refufed to accept from Lord Macart
ney, and then refufed to return it. On our
arrival, however, at Tong-tchew, the chariot
appeared to have found its way thither before
us ; and though we were rather in the habit of
being furprized, we could not help Jeeling a
considerable degree of afloniShment at feeing
the carriage oppofite the houfe appointed for
the reception of the embaffy, furrounded by
crowds of Chinefe, and many of its ornaments
defaced. It was, -accordingly, drawn down to
the river fide, and a cafe being made for it on
the fpot, to. fecure it from any further injury, it
was re-configned to the hold of a junk ; and
after having rolled a few pofls in- China, was
finally fent to figure at Madras.
About four o'clock the whole fuite were em
barked, .when dinner was immediately ferved ;
T a nor

( 276 )
nor was it long before they retired to reft, after
the moft fatiguing day they had experienced
Since their arrival in China.
Friday u. At a very early hour the junks were unmoor
ed, and the fleet proceeded down the river :
but as I have already given the belt defcription
in my power of the country through which it
flows, and the local circumftances of it, I Shall
pafs on to the day when we changed the natu
ral for the artificial water, with one folitary
obfervation ; that though we Still attracted the*
notice of the inhabitants who lived near the
river, the refpectful attentions of our former'
r — '-voyage were not repeated.
Wcdneti' This morning the fleet entered a very noble
day i 6. 1 l • i • • i
canal, winch communicates with the river near
Tyen-fing. "It is a work of great labour, and
prodigious expenfe; and its fides are faced with
mafonry throughout its courfe. At certain dif
tances locks are erected to give a current to the
water ; they are in the form of an half-moon,
and confine the water to a narrow paffage in the
middle of -the canal, which occasions a fall of
about three feet. The junks acquire an acce
lerated motion in paffing thefe locks, which
continued for a considerable diflance ; and, in
order to prevent their receiving any injury from
Striking againft the walls of the lock, which, on
account of the fudden ferment of the water, itis

( 277 )
is not often poffible to avoid, men are always
ftationed there to let down large leathern pads,
which effectually break the Shock that wrould
otherwife be felt from fuch an accident.
We paffed through at leaft thirty of thefe
locks in the courfe of this day's voyage, with
out being able to difcover any variation in them,
as to their conftruction, or the effects produced
by them.
On each fide of the canal, the country, as
far as the eye can reach, is one entire flat, but
fmiling with fertility. Several villages, with
their crowds of inhabitants, varied the feene ;
and at each of them the foldiers of She diftrict
appeared in military array, and faluted the fleet
as it paffed with three guns.
We paffed by feveral towns and villages, and J^mf
at every one of them the Ambaffador and man
darins were received with military honours.
It may be proper to obferve in, this place,
.that a mandarin of thefecond clafs, named
Choofadzin, was on board the fleet, and was to
continue with us till our arrival at Hoang-tchew,
of which province he was appointed the vice
roy. Van-Tadge-In, although a mandarin of
the firft clafs, was inferior to him in authority,
as the office of viceroy gives precedence to the
higheft order of mandarins. T 3 I obferved

( 278 )
1793. I obferved a considerable nurhber of rice
o^^T fields, in which there were ftone gutters or
channels, finifhed with great neatnefs, and ad
mirably contrived to convey water to every part
of the plantations.
For fome days the provifions with which we
had been fupplied, were not only deficient in
quantity, but were fent ready drefled and cold ;
fo that we found it neceffary to drefs them
again, or rather heat them up as well as we
could. Mr. Plumb, the. vehicle of all com
plaints, and who, in general, contrived to pro
cure redrefs, was employed on the prefent
occafion to reprefent the diffatisfaction which
was felt by the different departments of the
embaffy, respecting the deficiency and quality
of the daily provifions.
Friday 18. The fame flat and fertile country appeared
on either fide of the canal, though the view
was this day varied by feveral gardens, in which
there were plantations of that fhrub which bears
what is called the imperial and gunpowder teas ;
it grows to the flze of a goofberry bufh, with
leaves of the fame flze, The former of thofe
teas is collected from the firft, and the other
from the fucceffive bloflbms of that plant.
We continued to pafs through a fucceflion of
locks, and to excite the curiofity of various
towns and villages which poured forth their
inhabitants

( 279 )
inhabitants to fee the extraordinaiy Spectacle of 1793.,
an European embaffy. oaobe^
Towns and villages alternately prefented Saturday r 9.
themfelves on either fide of the canal, with
their prodigious population, but poffefled no
peculiarity, and offered no circumftances of
novelty which would justify a particular de
fcription. The reprefentation which had been made
concerning the provifions produced an imme
diate change in the fupply of them : wc this
day received a large quantity of mutton and
beef, with fowls and ducks ; to thefe were added
bread, flour, tea, fugar, rice, vegetables of all
kinds, with foy, oil, candles, charcoal and
wood; and, while the folid part of the meal,
with the means of preparing it, were amply ad
ministered, the elegant addition of fruits of
various kinds, and the liquors of the copntry, '
-were not forgotten.
In the very unexpected fituation of the em
baffy, it was, very natural for thofe who com-
pofed the retinue of it to be continually forming
conjectures, and eagerly inquiring after any in
formation that might tend to elucidate the extra
ordinary circumftances of it. Thus we became
acquainted with various reports on the fubject,
fome of which we were difpofed to credit, white
T 4 we

( 280 )
we rejected others, as they feemed to concur
with,, or contradict, the events of the moment.
Thus we were not unwilling to believe, as it
was propagated among us by fome of the
Chinefe, that a Tartar mandarin had been able
to prejudice the Emperor againft the Englifh
people by reprefenting them as barbarous, in
human, and deftitute of all thofe amiable qua
lities which they pretended to poffefs : nor were
niany of the fuite indifpofed to believe that from
fuch an unpropitious circumftance the embaffy
had been treated, to ufe no worfe expreffion,
with fuch Strange difrefpect and peremptory
difmiffion. It wasalfo added, that Van-Tadge-,
In, the attendant mandarin, had Since repre-
fented the conduct and character of the em
baffy in a very different point of view, in a
written ' memorial addreffed to the Emperor ;
which had induced his Imperial Majefly to
give orders that the Britifh Ambaffador and his
fuite Ihould be abundantly fupplied with every
thing neceffary for their convenience and com
fort, and that they might at all times enjoy the
liberty of going on Shore, and amufing them
felves at their own difcretion.
Sunday 20. We paffed a'great number of tobacco plan
tations. The Chinefe cultivate and manufac
ture this plant in a very fuperior degree, and are

- f
( 281 •)
are fuppofed to poffefs greater varieties of it J793.
than any other country in the world. nTTb '
The quantity of tobacco confirmed, and, of
courfe, grown in China, muft be beyond all ¦
calculation, as fmoaking is univerfally practifed,
and by all ranks and ages. Children, as. foon
as they have flifficient ftrength or dexterity to
hold a pipe in their hands, are taught by their
parents to flnoake, which they feel not only as
an habitual amufement, but is considered as a
prefervative againft all contagious difeafes.
Several walled cities appeared at fome dif
tance from the canal, whofe guards and garri-
fons were marched to its banks, iri order to
give the ufual falute ; and one in particular of
very great extent and amazing population, call
ed Tohiamfyn. The crowds of people of both
fexes which came to fee the junks pafs, were
beyond all belief.
We this day paffed feveral ftone bridges,
fome of them were of one, and others of two
arches, which appeared to be constructed with
great ftrength and excellent mafonry. The
number of locks appeared rather to increafe
than diminish in. the courfe of this, day's voyage.
The country offered a very fruitful feene, Tuefday 22.
and, in fomeplaces, rofe into hills and uplands.
The water-mills, of which we faw feveral at
work* appeared to be in a great meafure the fame as

( 282 )
as thofe ufed in Europe : they were, corn-mills,
as we were informed ; and were fituated in the
midft of very extenfive fields of that grain,
which was almoft ready for the fickle.
Several gentlemen of the fuite went -on Shore
to enjoy the exercife and variety of walking on
the banks of the canal : but the junks were
carried on with fuch rapidity from the quick
fucceffion of locks, that they were left behind,
' and the whole fleet was obliged to come to
anchor till they rejoined it.
wednef. We this morning law a very lofty pagoda
day 23. fituated on an eminence : it appeared to be a
ftone building, conflfting of eight ftories, each
of which was encircled with a balcony, and the
Whole terminated in an ornamented roof that
diminifhed to a very flender point.
Thurf- We this day faw the Chinefe poft pafs along
the rpad, on the flde of the canal, with great
expedition. The letters and packets are carried
in a large fquare bamboo bafket, girt with cane
hoops and lined ; it is locked, and the key
is given to the cuftody of one of the attendant
foldiers, whofe office it is to deliver it to the
poft-mafter ; the box is fattened on the courier's
Shoulders with Straps, and is decorated at the
bottom with a number of fmall bells, which,
being Shaken by the motion of the horfe, make
a loud gingling noife, that announces the ap
proach

day 24.

( 283 )
proach of the poft. The pott-man is efeorted
by five light-horfemen to guard him from rob
bery or interruption. The fwifteft horfes are
alfo employed on the occafion, which are re
newed at every ftage; fo that the pofts of
China may vie in expedition with the Englifh
mail. Thefucceffion of populous and large towns Friday 25.
was Yo continual, that it would be tedious to
mention them but as a" general ch ara cieri flic of
the country; unlefs fome particular circum
ftance, from its novely or intereft, Should juf-
tify defcription.
When I rofe this morning, I was furprifed
to find the junk fleet at anchor in the heart of
a very large city, through the center of which
the canal paffes ; it is here croffed by a con
tinual fucceffion of bridges, which are con
nected with a circular breaft-work on each flde,
guarded by foldiers, who fuffer no veffels to
pafs till they have been infpected by mandarins
who prefide over that department. The fleet
was favoured here with the ufual falute of three
guns, and a Very large body of foldiers was
drawn up on both Sides of the canal; they
were completely armed, and wore large hel
mets, which gave them a very military appear
ance, while their ranks were enlivened with
feveral Stands of colours. At

( 284 )
!793- At fix o'clock the fleet left this city, and at
oaober. ten paffed through another, which,, as far as
we could judge from our paffage, was of equal
dimensions and population. Its name is Kord-
cheeaung. To the left of the canal, and in the center
of the city, we faw a very magnificent and
lofty pagoda : it rofe to the height of ten fto
ries, each of which is furrounded with an ele
gant gallery, and projecting canopies, Sup
ported by pillars.
The chief mandarin of the place has an
handfome palace guarded by a fort, whofe
garrifon came forth to Salute the Ambaflador,
as the veffels patted by it.
In the fubfequent progrefs of this day's
voyage we paSfed four other cities, of equal
magnitude with thofe which have been already
mentioned ; and about nine o'clock at night
anchored in the city of Leeyaungoa, which
was illuminated to do honour to the distin
guished perfons on board the fleet ; nor were
any of thofe marks of refpect omitted which
had been demonstrated in all the places, ac
cording to their rank, through which we had
paSfed. A very large body of troops,' conflfting at
leaft of a thoufand men, were drawn up on the
banks of the canal ; and each man held a pole
with

( 28-5 )
with a coloured paper lanthern hanging from 1793.
it, which, when the troops halt, is Stuck in the oa^er;
ground ; the whole forming a very Angular and
pleaflng fpectacle.
The air was this morning extremely cold; Saturday 2 6.
the thermometer having funk fo low as forty
degrees. At feven o'clock we paffed a lock,
whole current bore us into the city of Kaung-,
hoo, which, from the great number of junks
laying there, muft be a place of immenfe trade.
Indeed, the water was fo entirely covered with
them, that our fleet was obliged to come to ,
anchor, in order to give time for a paffage to
be made between them. The canal took a
winding courfe through this place, which is
elevated above it, and its banks fall in beauti
ful flopes to. the water.
The weather was moderate and agreeable ; Sunday 27.
and the profpe6t was varied with meadows of
the richeft verdure, which were covered with
flocks of fheep, and herds of cattle. We
paffed alfo feveral large fields of paddy and
millet, and the eye ranged over a vaft extent
of flat and fertile country.
The voyage of this day furnifhed no .variety, Monday *s.
unlefs a great number of flour-mills may be
fuppofed to vary the feene.
The growing wealth of cultivation we had Turfday a9.
feen every hour as we proceeded on our voyage,.
2 , and

( 286 )
aad not a fpot appeared which towns and
villages did not occupy, but proved the Skill
and labour of the hufbandman. This morn
ing, however, gave us a profpect of that labour*
for we paffed feveral extenfive .fields, where the
peafants were bufy with their ploughs ; thefe
machines, fo effential in agriculture, werev
drawn by oxen, and though of a very clumfy
form when compared with thofe of our own-
oPuntry, perform their office with good effect,
as tlie ground appeared to be got into a very
promising ftate of tillage.
•Wednef- We faw a fleet of junks laden with tea for
day 30. «
the Canton market; nor was it an unnatural,
or uninteresting obfervation, that in the chance
of commerce, fome of their cargoes might ulti
mately be consigned to our own country, and
arrive there before us.
The proSpects of this day were enlivened by
pagoelas, and country feats ; fome of which
were adorned with beautiful gardens, and
others furrounded with the fineft orchards I
ever beheld.
Thurf- This morning the fleet paffed through a wal-
y 3I" ¦ led city, named Hoongloafoo. This is ano
ther of thofe places where the vaft number of
junks which covered its canal,1 juftify the opi- '
nion of its extenfive commerce. In its neigh
bourhood there are large plantations of tea,
extcn-

( 287 )
extenfive fields of tobacco, and a great number 1793-
of flour-mills. ^Z^r.
We had feen frequent and large plantations Friday *-
of rice ; but the fields of cotton, which this
morning prefented themfelves to our attention,
formed a curious and pleaflng novelty. I ob
ferved that the cotton was of the nankeen co
lour, and is plucked from the top of a Short
Stalk. Of cities, towns, locks, and bridges, we have
feen and faid fo much, that the reader and the
writer would be equally fatigued with the daily
epumeration of them.

CHAP.

( 288 )

CHAP. XVII.
Various circumftances of the voyage. —Enter the YtU.
low River. — Pafs feveral towns, lakes, &c. —
Ceremonies at the city of Kiangfou.-*— Enter a
beautiful lake ; defcription of it. — Enter another
river ; circumftances of it. — Pafs feveral cities,
lie. — Dock yards for building junks. — Arrive at
the city of Mee-you-mee-awng ; . beautiful country.
—-Further account of the Chinefe troops. — A man-.
darin s palace and pagoda defcribed.
1793- A HE canal appeared now to have affumed
November, the form of a conflderable river, and brought
us to a very large city, where we came to an
anchor at fix o'clock in the morning, having
paffed a fort at the entrance, by which the fleet
had been faluted.
When I mention the fltuation and circum
ftances of this city, it would be needlefs to
defcribe it as a place of great trade, or fpeak of
the inconceivable number of junks which were
moored at its quays and wharfs ; it will be fuf
ficient to fay, that it was wafhed by large ca
nals, and that on the fouth fide of it, there is
an extenfive bay which communicates with the
Yellow

Saturday 2.

( 289 )
Yellow River, to give fome notion of its Com
mercial character. *
Here the fleet remained at anchor about an
hour; when it unmoored, and foon entered
the bay, with an alarming rapidity, through a.
large lock, constructed with ruShes, curioufly
matted together, and fecured with logs of
wood. ,
This bay is of great extent* and would con
tain the proudeft fleets of Europe, while its
Shores offer an amphitheatre of landfeape
beauty. The hills . are verdant to their very
flimmits, which are fometimes crowned with
pagodas ; and the lower parts are enriched with
houfes and gardens, and that variety of culti
vation which diftinguifh.es this extraordinary
country. On entering this bay, it was difcovered that
there were a variety of currents running with
great violence, and in oppofite directions, at
not lefs than feven miles an 'hour ; and the
Skill of navigating it confifts in being able to
get, into that individual current which runs to
wards the place of the veffers particular desti
nation. In this fituation we Should have been glad, if
it had been copfiftent with the courfe of the
voyage, to have eaft anchor, and enjoyed, at
leifure, the contemplation of its beauties : but
U the

( 20.0 )
»79> the fleet immediately fleered towards a large
November, .river, which it foon entered, and whofe ftreariif
foon bore us, as it were, into the bofom of a
rich and beautiful country.
At the mouth of this river there is a large
town, with the palace of a mandarin of the
firft clafs furrounded with a ftrong ftone wall :
it is a very large edifice, crowned with turrets,
richly gilt and ornamented after the fafhion of
the country. The front looks towards the bay,
of which it commands an, extenfive and en
chanting profpect.
Town now fucceeded to townj and the
country offered the moft beautiful views, of
which no adequate idea can be given by written
defcription. When, therefore, I mention the
country as one fcene of varied cultivation, di
vided by well-planted enclofures, peopled with
farms that are furrounded by orchards, enriched
with villas, and their ornamental gardens, a
very inadequate picture is given of the expan-
flve feenery on either Side of the navigation
which bore us through it.
At two o'clock, and as we were preparing for
dinner, the junks arrived at a very large town,
through which the river took a courfe of at
leaft three miles. This place is formed on a
more regular plan than any which we had feen
in China, The houfes were uniformly built of
brick*

( 1,1 )
brick, Varied with an intermixtPre of blue 1793V
ftone, and feldom deviated from the height of jj^nj^
two ftories.
The ufual honours of forts and military
guards were received here, as through every
place we paffed, of whatever flze or diftinction '
it might be : the Walled city, and the village*
were equally attentive to this . act of official
civility, according to their refpective capacities.
It may, indeed, be here obferved* that through
the whole of our travels in this country, whe
ther, by land, or by water, and not excepting
Tartary, the village's, as well as the cities, have
their mandarin, and his guards proportioned to
the magnitude and confequence of the place
where they are cantoned; and that the inte
rior parts of the kingdom are equally fecured
by troops, as the frontiers* or fea coaft : we
may, therefore, be faid to pafs almoft between
a continued line of foldiers, on each fide of the
canals, or rivers ; where the intervals are fo
fo fmall between thofe villages and great towns, ¦
that they may be faid to form a chain of mili
tary cantonments.
In the latter part of the afternoon we an- ,
chored, for fome time, at another conflderable
town, where the junks Stopped to take in a
fupply of China wine. It is, fituated on the
fide of a large lake, which* in fome places* was
V a divided*-

( 292 )
«793- divided only by a bank from the fiver on which
November, we failed. As I could not difcover any land in
the diftant part of this large body of water, I
was difpofed to confider it as an inlet of the
Yellow fea.
The country now began to wear a fwampy
appearance, and, of courfe, did not altogether
retain thofe beautiful features, which I bave
faintly reprefented it to poffefs, during the
more recent parts of our voyage. This cir
cumftance naturally arifes from the great num
ber of rivers, canals, and lakes, that aid the
navigation of this part of the country ; which
being fubject to occafional inundations from
them, is frequently in the fituation that I have
defcribed. Im the evening we faw a very fine palace
belonging to the mandarin of a town, through.
which we afterwards paffed in the night, and
neither, knew its form or character r nor Should.
we have even difcerned the grandeur of the
mandarin's refidenee, if he had not illuminated
it in honour of the Ambaffador and his bre
thren on board the junks ; and ordered out his
guard, conflfting of at leaft five hundred men,
to enlighten with their paper lanterns the banks*
of: the river.
Sunday 3. This morning was very keen and frofty.
The fleet anchored oppofite- to a large lake*
which

( 293 )
which appeared to communicate with feveral 1793.
confiderable rivers. The country continued its Number.
flat and fwampy appearance. I was this day
informed that the river whereon we were
proceeding is called the Yellow river, which
may probably be owing to the communications
it may have with the Yellow fea. There is a
confiderable town fituated between the lake
and this river. ¦
The junks remained at anchor no longer
than was neceffary to receive the ufual fupply
of provifions and wine. In a Ihort time we
paffed another lake; and, without enumerating
the canals, with their ftone and wooden bridges,
as well as the villages and towns that claimed
our tr-anfient attention,. I fhall come at once to
another lake that appeared to be much larger
than any of thofe which have been already
mentioned. A great number of junks were
failing acrofs it in different directions, and fe
veral hundred fishing boats were employed on
it in their neceffary occupations. It is Said to
abound in fifh ; thofe we procured were fmall,
of the Size of a fprat, but in tafte and Shape re-
fembling an haddock: nor was our river defi
cient in its produce* as plenty of fine trout were
taken in it.
At fome diflance from the river, on the fide
oppofite to the lake, is a very large, and, as far
V 3 as '

( 294 )
1793- as we could judge, magnificent city furrounded
NowrTbcr. by a wall, named Chun-foong. The fuburbs
which" extend towards the water, are alfo very
confiderable, and the houfes of which they con-
fift are built of a dark ftone, roofed with tiles
of the fame colour. They are only of one
ftory, and their windows are circular and grated
with iron, which gives them a very difagreeable
appearance. The wall of this town is not fo
high as thofe we have hitherto feen, and, as
far as I could judge by the telefcope, does not
rife above fourteen or fifteen feet. The part of
it that we paffed could not be lefs than two
miles in extent ; which may lead us to the
plaufible conjecture that the city itfelf is at leaft
eight miles in circumference. From its gene
ral appearance and acceffory circumftances,- no
doubt could be entertained of its extenfive com-.
merce ; and, from the drefs and manners of its
inhabitants, a Similar opinion might be enter
tained of their urbanity and opulence.
At four o'clock the fleet anchored at the ex
tremity of the wall of this city, and received a
frefh fupply of wine and provifions : thefe,
indeed, were now provided in fuch plenty, that
the poor people who navigated the junks
found themfelves in a ftate of unexpected and
unexampled luxury, from the fuperabundance
of them. Several

( 295 )
Several of the gentlemen from the other 1793.
junks did us the honour to pay us a vifit, which NoT^„.
produced an evening of great mirth and festi
vity. The weather was extremely cold. We pafled Monday 4.
two large lakes, which, by their refpective
branches, unite with the river. At noon we
failed through a confiderable town, and be
yond it, faw feveral fmall canals on either fide
of the river, with many boats on them employ
ed in fifhing. The country is flat and marShy,
and wherever the road on the fide of the river
paffes over fwampy dips or vallies, wooden
platforms are erected to preferve the level, and
avoid the inconvenience of finking into them.
A large walled city, whofe name is Kiangfou,
next claimed our attention. At the entrance
of it a mandarin and his guards appeared on
the water-Side in martial figure, to give the
cuftomary falutes. At each end of the line
of troops there was an elegant arch, with a con
nected platform, about three feet from the
ground, guarded by railing, and projecting
into the river. Thefe temporary Structures
were covered with beautiful matting, and the
rails were bound with filk of various colours,
ornamented with knots and feftoons. The
arches were decorated in a Similar tafte, and
the whole was erected for the convenience of
U 4 the

( 296 )
1 793- the Ambaffador, if it had fuited his convenience
November, to flop, and vifit the mandarin.
At a fmall diftance, and on an elevated Situ-
ation, was an encampment of the mandarin's
guards. The tents were pitched clofe to each
other, in a circular form, with a fmall vacant
fpace as an entrance to the mandarin's pavilion,
which occupied the center. It was decorated in
a very elegant manner with ribands and Silken
Streamers : the front of it was ppen, and dif
played its" interior ornaments : it contained a
table covered with a collation, and furrounded
with fine chairs, with a canopy over one of
them. The mandarin's attendants appeared to
be in waiting, and a centinel was on duty on
each fide of the pavilion.
This regale was prepared with great polite-
nefs and hofpitality in honour of the Ambaffa
dor and the mandarins on board the junks, if
the order of the voyage would have permitted
them to have delayed its progrefs for a Short
time, to haVe acknowledged thefe refpectful "
attentions. . Each tent had a flag of green filk, orna
mented with golden figures and Chinefe cha
racters flying on the top of it, fo that this en
campment was a very pretty and picturefque
object. At

.( 297 )~
At a fmall diftance from it, there was a large 1793.
town, the houfes of which being built of ftope ^Z^aL.
gave it a very fuperior appearance, and the in
habitants poffeffed all the exterior of an opu
lent and polifhed people. Here we Stopped
for a Short time in order to receive a fupply of
provifions, as well as to be furniShed with a
body of thofe men whofe employment it is to
tow the junks. They wore a kind pf uniform,
and had red caps, on their heads, by which their
laborious profeffion is known and distinguished.
Our eyes were very much gratified at this place
by the fight of a confiderable number of wo
men, who appeared to us not only to poffefs
fine features, but fair complexions.
At five o'clock we came to the fuburbs of a
very large city, and paffed at leaft a mile along
the fuburbs before we reached the wall of it.
From fuch a view as my fituation would ad
mit, and the beft information I could obtain, 1
this place is at leaft nine miles in circumfe
rence. Several hundred junks were moored
along its wharfs, fome of which were of very
large dimenfions. The wall is at leaft forty
feet in height, and has a very ancient appear
ance. The redoubts which fupport the gates
are fuch as I had not feen in China, being in
the form of an half-moon. The troops were
drawn out, as in other places, on our arrival, and

( 298 )
1793. and a very brilliant illumination, exhibited by
NoTe^ber. the mandarin, did not fail to diffipate the gloom
of the evening.
Turfaay5. This morning the fleet entered a large lake,
adorned with a great number of beautiful
iflands. The moft confiderable of them is on
the fouth- weft fide of the lake ; its length is
about three quaters of a mile, but not of equal
breadth. It contains a mandarin's palace, with
feveral fummer houfes fancifully fcattered about
it ; the whole fhaded with the fineft trees, and
prefenting to us as we failed by it, a moft in
viting fcene of rural elegance. But beauty
was not the only circumftance which allured
our attention to this charming ifland ; a consi
derable rock, an object of comparative gran
deur, alfo rofe from the midft of its groves, and
was crowned with a Stately pagoda.
We had no fooner paffed this delightful Spot,
poffeffing fo much beauty in itfelf, and com
manding fo large a portion of fine profpect
around it, than we entered another river, the
mouth of which is furrounded with high lands,
offering the moft picturefque fcenery that can
be imagined : thick woods, Stately edifices,
lofty pagodas, and mountainous Shapes, with
the river and the lake, all blended together in
one picture, may exercife the imagination of
thofe who read this work, but far tranfcends the

( 299 )
the defcriptive powers of the writer of it. It iy93.
may not alfo be unworthy of remark, that all ^JJ~jl
the houfes which occupy the heights furround-
ing this bay, are ornamented with gilt pyra
mids or pinnacles, which rife from the roof, and
give fome of the buildings the appearance of
Gothic architecture.
This river, as might be expected, - foon
brought us to a town, where the foldiers, which
were drawn up on either fide of the water to
falute the fleet, were different from thofe we
had already feen, by the variety of their drefs
and the colour of their Standards; which were
now multiplied into white, fcarlet, orange,
light and dark blue and green.
A mandarin's palace, very finely Ornamented
with painting, gilding, and filken ftreamers, a
river crowded with junks, and a charming
country on either fide of it, were the only ob
jects that prefentedv themfelves to us, till we '
arrived before the city of Mee-you-mee-awng.
The walls are of great height, and guarded by
towers; while a kind of glacis Hopes down
from the foot of it to a meadow, agreeably
planted with trees that Stretch along the fide of
the river, and add very much to the beauty of
the place.
Here the fleet anchored for a fhort time to
take in the ufual fupply of provifions j and,
from

( 3°° )
^]^j from the general appearance of the city, as well
November, as of the adjacent country, they both feemed to
have been formed by the hand of commerce it
felf for the purpofes of navigation.
Beauty of fituation might alfo be added to
the abundance of its productions; for the
banks fbf the river that paffed before its walls,
when they rofe into height, were covered with
hanging woods and gardens, which gave a
charming variety fo the transient feene.
To thefe pleaflng objects fucceeded one of a
very different nature, and, by its contraft„ ac
quired an additional importance. It was no
lefs than a body of foldiers drawn up on an
efplanade ; the line of which, extending »near a
mile, divided into companies diftinguifhed by
the variety of their uniforms, and enlivened by
the number, as well as colour of their Standards,
offered a very beautiful Spectacle.
No other object for fome time attracted our
notice, except a fmall dock yard for building
jupks, enclofed in a fine grove, which formed a
pretty picturefque fceno.
The river now appeared to be proceeding
boldly op into a rich, fertile country, but of
more unequal furface than any we had yet,
feen ; when, by an unexpected meander, it
brought us back to the city of Mee-you-mee-
awng, to aftonifh us with the extent of it.
Here

( 30t )
Here we paffed through another large bridge* I793.
and near a circular baflion which commanded, *— v— '
. . # * November.
by its battery, every direction of the river.
On another turn of the Stream, a very fine
hill rofe up* as if were, before us* whofe fum
mit is crowned with a magnificent pagoda, and
whofe declivities have all the decoration that
could be conferred on them by beautiful gar
dens and elegant buildings. At the foot of this
elevated fpot are two ftone arches, or gateways,
which open to a walk that winds gradually up
the hill to the pagoda.
The palace of the mandarin, of whofe garden
this hill appeared' to form a part, is fituated on
the banks of the river, from whence a broad
flight of fteps afcends to the gate of the outer
court. This edifice is perfectly fuited, both in
its flze and appearance, to the dignity of its
poffeffor. Like other buildings of the fame' .
kind and character in China, it is perfectly
uniform in all its parts. The body of the
houfe rifes to three Stories, and the wings are
diminished to two. A paved court occupies a
large Space in the front ; and the whole is en
clofed by a wall, including a large garden, that
extends to the beautiful hill, of which a very
inadequate fketch has been already given.
The country continues to make great ad
vances in landfcape beauty ; fields full of fer-
4 rihty,

C 3<>2 )
1793. tility, with their thick and Shady enclofufes}
November, farms embofomed in orchards ; villas, and their
gardens, we have long continued to fee : but
now the mountain rifes before us, not rugged
and barren, but verdant to its very top 5 while
innumerable herds of cattle, and flocks of
fheep, hang down its Sloping pastures.
Another town foon fucceeded ; and to that a
lake, furrounded by hills of the fame kind, and
covered with the fame inhabitants as thofe
which have juft been mentioned. From this
enchanting Spot our fleet paffed through a
lock, and between a drawbridge, into a canal*
that divides another large commercial town.
Here we faw a brick-kiln* and a great pile of
bricks juft made : they appear to be compofed
of a kind of fand, mixed up with the mud of
the river. The kiln itfelf is built of the mate
rials which it makes, and is in the form of a
fugar loaf.
In the evening we paffed a large walled chyy
containing all the circumftances of the various
places of that defcription which have been al
ready enumerated. Several pagodas were illu
minated on the occafion, and had a very pretty
appearance amid the gloom of night.

CHAP.

( 3°3 )

CHAP. XVIII.
i
The voyage continued.— A fucceffion of various objects.
— The elegant attentions of a mandarin to the
embaffy. — Captains of the junks puniftoed .for
embezzling the provifions fupplied for the ufe of the
Ambaffador and his fuite. — Hufbandry of the Chi
nefe.— Preparations' for fending the heavy baggage
belonging to the embaffy to Chufan ; feveral perfons
of the fuite ordered to accompany it. — Arrive at
Hoang-tchew. — Captain Mackintofti, and the other
gentlemen, fet off for Chufan.

A

TOWN which we entered this morning, I79j,
had a very diftnal appearance, from the colour *~— *— "*
' ¦r-r * November,
of the houfes, which are all built of a black wednef-
brick. They were, however, much more lofty
than any we had yet feen in China ; fome of
them rifing to four ftories ; and there were
very few indeed that had lefs than two.
We paffed beneath a very handfome Stone
bridge of three arches, that appeared to be of
recent erection. It was built in the manner of
our bridges in England ; the center arch occu
pying a much larger fpan, and rifing to an
higher elevation than the lateral ones. On the
parapet,

( 3°* )
*793- parapet, over the former, were fix round fmall
November, ftones, by way of ornament, with Chinefe
characters engraven on them.
The mandarin's palace, a very Singular Struc
ture, immediately attracts the attention on
paffing the bridge near which it Stands* On
each fide of the principal gate are two lofty
walls, painted of a red colour, to prevent the
buijding from being feen but in a front view of
it. The gateway is very much encircled with
fculpture, and the ufual accompaniments of
Chinefe characters : it is of ftone, and Supports
an apartment. The houfe itfelf is painted of
different colours, with a ftone gallery in front,
and covered with a roof of the fame material.
The mandarin who refided here had given
td his hofpitality the moft elegant appearance.
He had caufed a temporary ftage, or platform
to be erected, from the palace to the fide of the
rivet, in cafe the Ambaffador, and the manda
rins, Should find it convenient to land. The
roof of this building was covered with filk of -
every colour; a great number of lamps were
fufpended from it, fancifully adorned with
gauze and ribands, and the floor was covered
with a fine, variegated matting. But this was
not the whole of the elegapt attentions which
were exerted by the mandarin on the occafion ;
¦ as he had caufed a large fcreen, or curtain, of
this

( 305 )
this matting, to be fixed on the oppofite fide of '793'
the water, in order to hide fome ruinous build- November.
ings that would otherwise have difgraced the
gay picture he had contrived, by their de
formity. The foldiers, under the command of this
mandarin", were of a different appearance from
any we had feen. They wore red hats, with a
very high and pointed crown ; on the fide of
which was a brafs plate, that appeared to be
fattened with yellow ribands.
Towns, locks, bridges, a-nd pagodas ftill
continued to appear in an hafty and aftoniShing
fucceffion. In the afternoon, a very large
country reftdence was feen at fome diftance,
with a very lofty pagoda rifing, as it perfpec-
tively appeared, from the center of it. The
tower terminated in a cupola, with a fpiral or
nament rifing from the top, crowned with a
ball, from each fide of which a chain hung
down till it touched the upper ftory of the
building. Soon after we had paffed this Structure, the
banks of the river were, for a confiderable dis
tance, fo high, as to obfeure all view of the
adjacent country.
When the fleet came to anchor, the grand
mandarin vifited all the junks, in confequence
of a complaint that had been made againft feme
X of

( 3°6 )
»793- of the captains of them for embezzling the
November, provisions which were daily fupplied for the ufe
of the embaffy. After a fevere examination
into this buflnefs, the mandarin was fo convin
ced of the truth of the charge, that the perfons
accufed were immediately fentenced to be bam-
booed: they were accordingly Stretched on
the ground, and being held down by two fol
diers, were flruck in a very violent manner
acrofs the hips, till the judge gave a fignal for
the punifhment to ceafe.
Thurfday 7. It had been a very foggy night, and the wea
ther continued to be hazy till ten o'clock, when
the fog cleared away, and a fine day fucceeded,
which unfolded to the view a charming and fer
tile country, bounded'by hills, whofe Summits
were crowned with pagodas.
I, this day, caught a transient view of the
practical husbandry of the country ; as the dif
ferent operations of digging, manuring, and
ploughing were obfervable in fields on the
river's fide. But though the Chinefe farmers
certainly produce as fine crops of grain as any I
have ever feen in Europe, this circumftance
muft arife from the Sole efforts of perfevering
labour, as their agricultural utenfils appear to
be of a very clumfy form and inconvenient me-
chanifm. 4 In

( 307 )
In the courfe of this day we paffed through a 1793.
noble arch, and entered a very large town, ^^aev,
whofe houfes, which are, many of them, fo
lofty as to reach to three ftories, are covered
with platter, and univerfally painted black.
After a courfe of at leaft two miles through this
fable, city, we pafled beneath another arch of
dimenfions equal to that through which we had
entered it
Another town, of the fame Size and appear
ance, foon fucceeded ; where, as a part of the
houfes, on the fide of the river, projected a
fmall Space over it, the men who towed us
could be of no fervice, and the junks were
dragged forwards very flowly by boats.
The continual interfection of canals, with the
fucceflion of lakes and rivers, may be fuppofed
to have perplexed a more keen obfervation than
mine ; and, in the extraordinary fucceflion of
objects, I may not have always been correct
as to the exact character; of the water on which
we failed : the rivers may have fometimes af-
fumed the form of canals, and the canals have
fometimes expanded info the appearance of
rivers ; but if I Should, at any time, have mif-
taken the one for the other, either from inac
curacy of obfervation, or the hurry of the mo
ment when I wrote thofe remarks from whence
this volume is formed, fuch an accidental cir-
X 2 cumftance

( 3°8 )
1793- cumftance will not operate as to the more par-
November., ticular and important information of it. I
fhall not, however, hefitate to confider it as a
very noble river, which brought us beneath the
walls of the city of Chaunopaung, that were.
crowded with its inhabitants to fee us pafs1 : and
as the Stream foon bore us from it, there was
no opportunity to obferve whether it had any
circumftance of novelty worthy of record.
Friday 8. At noon the junks came to an anchor in the
country ; -when his Excellency fent for feveral
perfons of his fuite,, to inform them of the re
gulations which would take place on their ar
rival at Hoang-tchew, that they might make
the neceffary arrangements. They were as
follows :
All the heavy baggage was intended to be
forwarded from Hoang-tchew to Chufan, in
order to be put on board the Hindoftan, and
conveyed by fea to Canton. It was accordingly
ordered, that no perfon Should retain any
thing but what might be neceffary for prefent
ufe, as the junks which would fhortly receive
us, were not fufficiently large to carry heavy
cargoes. It was alfo fettled, that Lieutenant-colonel
Benfon, Doctor Dinwiddie, and Mr. Alexan
der, were' to accompany Captain Mackintofh
to Chufan ; four fervants, and two mechanics, to

. f,
( 3°9 )
to take Cafe of the ftores* were alfo to attend i?93«
Upon thofe gentlemen. The reft of the fuite November.
, were to accompany his Excellency, and I was
of that number.
The country flill continued to be as we have Saturday -.
for fome time defcribed it. As we proceeded*
the country became more unequal, the pa
godas, which are almoft always placed on
heights, feemed to multiply ; and there were
few of them that did not reach to feven or eight
ftories. As for towns and villages there was a
continual fucceflion of them : and when they
did not cover the banks of our river, they ap
peared at a distance, where, we might fuppofe
them to be reflected by fome other water.
At three o'clock in the afternoon, the fleet !
was ordered to anchor in the open country, ;
near the fhore, when the mandarin, Van- , \
Tadge-In, came round to each junk ; the ;
owners of which he ordered into his prefence, j
and, after a Short examination, commanded !•
every one of them to be bambooed : though I ¦
could never learn the offence which produced ,
this example of fummary juftice.
This morning the air was extremely cold and Sunday 10.
'piercing. We paffed feveral plantations of
tallow-trees, and arrived at Hoang-tchew in the
afternoon, when the whole fleet came to anchor
in a principal part of the city.
X 3 The

( 3*o )
J793- The junks were now faftened together, and
November, orders were iffued to forbid any perfon belong
ing to the fuite to go on Shore. Indeed, as it
appeared, to prevent any attempt of that kind,
a body of Chinefe foldiers pitched their tents in
the Street oppofite the junks, and formed a little
camp there, to do duty over the embaffy.
In the fame flreet there were alfo feveral
erections like triumphal arches, where the man
darins ufed to come every day, to fit in State,
and, as we were informed, to confult on the
affairs of the city.
Monday n. No circumftance of any moment happened
from this time, till the Thurfday following,
which was the day of our departure ; and the
bufinefs of arranging and dividing the baggage,
according to the orders iffued for that purpofe,
did not allow us much leifure for obfervation,
if any thing had occurred worthy of attention :
but the truth is, nothing did occur, except the
never-ceafing uproar of the inhabitants of the
city, who were continually flocking to the
junks to take a view of us.
On Wednefday night the attendant mandarin.
paffed through all the junks, and requefted
that the different articles of the baggage Should
have the respective names of Chufan, or Can
ton, written upon them, according to their re
spective destination ; which was no fooner com
pleted,

(' 3" )
pleted, than thofe consigned to the former place 1793.
were fent off by coolies to the depot appointed NwmbTr.
to receive them.
The Ambaffador ordered ten dollars to be
given to the owners of each junk* for their
respective crews.
Lieutenant-colonel Benfon, Doctor Dipwid- £hutf"
die, Mr. Alexander, with the fervants and me
chanics already mentioned, fet off this morning,
to proceed with Captain Mackintofh, to join
-the Hindoftan at Chufan.

& 4 CHAP.

( 3" )

CHAP. XIX.
The Ambaffador, with his fuite, proceed through the
city of Hoang-tchew to the Green river, where
they embark. — Formalities on the occafion. — Cir
cumftances of the voyage. — Defcription of the
country. — Refpectpaid to the Ambaffador. — Leave
the junks, and proceed by land. — Mode of con
veyance.— Embark in other junks. — The voyage
continued.
^793- A HE Ambaffador, after having received the
November, farewell vifit of the mandarin of Hoang-tchew,
day 14. fet off, with his whole retinue, for the Green
river, where they were to embark in junks of a
leffer burthen. His Excellency was carried in a
palankin, and the reft of the fuite in a kind
of fedan chair. The guards, commanded by
Lieutenants Parifh and Crewe, preceded the
cavalcade. On pafling through the city gates, the em
baffy was faluted with three guns. The diftance
between the two rivers could not be lefs than
feven miles, the whole of which was covered by
the city and fuburbs of Hoang-tchew. The
ftreets were lined, op either fide, with foldiers, or

( 3^3 )
or it would have been impoffible to have paffed, ' 793-
from the prodigious crowds of people whom November,
curiofity had collected on the occafion.
The Streets of this city are very narrow, but
Well paved ; and the houfes, which are two and
three ftories high, being uniformly built of brick,
have a very neat appearance. The warehoufes
of the merchants exceed any I ever faw, both
for fplendour and magnitude ; while the fhops
are fitted up, both within and without, in a
Style of the greateft elegance. Their goods,
whether inclofed in packages, or difplayed to
view, were difpofed in the moft pleating and at
tractive mode of arrangement. Hoang-tchew
is a very magnificent, populous, and opulent
city, maintaining by its commerce the iminenfe
number pf its inhabitants ; and is the capital
of a province to which it gives a name.
At noon his Excellency arrived at the Green
river, on whofe banks a very large body of
troops, all armed with helmets, and accompa
nied with a large corps of artillery, were drawn
up in regular order : the whole confifting, as it
appeared, of feveral thoufand men ; the gran
deur of whofe appearance was enlivened by a
great nurnber of gaudy ftandards and enflgns.
The artillery troops were dreffed in blue, and
had figures of the ordnance embroidered on
their cloaths by way of distinction. They con-
a. ' ' flfted

( 3*4 )
i793- lifted of feveral companies, which were fta*
jfov^CT. tioned in the center, and on the flanks of the
lines. Their cannon were by much the largeft
we had feen in China: and as the British ca
valcade paffed through two very elegant trium
phal arches, it was faluted by a difcharge of ar
tillery. The river being very Shallow towards the
fhore, the junks lay at the diftance of fifty
yards from it, and were ranged in a line clofe
to each other. A platform was erected from the
- triumphal arch to the junk appointed to receive
the Ambaffador, which confifted of a great
number of carts faftened together, with fplit
bamboos laid acrofs them.
The multitudes of people affembled to fee
the embarkation were fo great, that I Should
hazard credibility were I to exprefs my opinion
of them. Befides the crowds which were on
foot, great numbers were mounted on buffaloes,
or drawn in carts by the fame animals, who
were tame and docile as our oxen. Some
of them had three or four perfons on their
backs at the Same time, whom they bore with
great eafe, and were fubmiflive to their riders.
The buffalo is very much ufed in this country
in every kind of draught labour, and particu
larly in the occupations of hufbandry.
On

( 3i5 )
On entering thefe junks, they were found, 1793.
though of fmall dimensions, to be fitted up ^^,
with great neatnefs- and peculiar accommo
dation^ At five o'clock in the afternoon the
whole fleet was unmoored, and proceeded on
its voyage.
I went on board the ftore junk, where I faw Friday 15,
the mandarin, Van-Tadge-In, examining one
of the people belonging to it, concerning fome
mifdemeanor he had committed. The poor
culprit was ordered to be punifhed with a baf-
tinado, and he accordingly received two dozen
ftrokes with a bamboo acrofs the thighs.
The greater part of this day's voyage was be
tween ranges of mountainous country, offering
a great variety of romantic and picturefque
fcenes. The intervening vallies were covered
with the tallow and mulberry trees ; from the
former of which the Chinefe make their candles, ¦
which are of a fuperior quality. This tree i&
here called the latchoo, and is remarkable for
the beauty of its appearance : it is the Size of
an apple tree, having fcarlet leaves edged with
yellow, and bloffoms of a pale purple. The
mulberry tree is cultivated in China with great
care, for the produce of filk, which is a prin
cipal article of Chinefe commerce.
We this day paffed feveral fmall villages, and
a walled city, named Syountong : it is fituated about

( 3»« )
about three quarters of a mile from the river*
and near a large forefl that Shades the country
about it.
This part of the river, though very broad, is
feldom more than two or three feet in depth*
and in no place more than four. The water
has a green hue, and the bottom is gravel. The
beach, however, is a mixture of fand and
ftones. In the evening of this day we were very
much delighted with a view of the city of Zau-
guoa in a ftate of magnificent illumination-.
The troops were alfo drawn up on the banks,
as we perceived by their lanterns ; and from the
number of them, as well as the brilliant ap
pearance of the place, there was every reafon
to Confider it as in the firft rank of Chinefe
cities. The Ambaffador was faluted here as he
had been by a great number of forts in J.he
courfe of the day.
Saturday 16. The weather was exceedingly cold, accom
panied with rain.
We paffed feveral ftone pagodas of a greater
height than any we had yet feen, fome of them
reaching to nine ftories. The environs of the
river ftill continued to be mountainous and full
of picturefque beauty, heightened by the fancy
and Singular genius of the inhabitants, both as
to cultivation and ornament. Large planta tions

( 3*7 )
tions of the tallow and mulberry , tree occa- 1793.
fionally appeared, to vary and enliven the flic- J7"^ber
ceffion of delightful views which unfolded them
felves as the Stream bore us along.
The falutes of artillery were now become So
frequent, that they were tirefome ; as the banks
of the river are, in a great meafure, lined with
forts, which expended their gun-powder in
doing honour to the embaffy. It may, indeed,
be faid, with a Strict regard to truth, that in
our long voyage through this kingdom, we had
never proceeded a Angle mile without receiving
the falute of fome fort or military cantonment :
nor were thefe honours altogether confined to
the fides of the river ; for this evening the fleet
was an object of refpect from a body of troops
at a confiderable j diflance, as we could judge
from their illumination ; which had a very
" pleaflng effect.
About three o'clock in the morning I was Sunday ao>,
awakened by a very heavy difcharge of artil
lery; and inftantly quitting my bed, I per
ceived by the number of lanterns, that a very
large body of men were drawn up on the
fhore : but this was not all f for a lighted torch
was fixed to the carriage of every gun, and the
bearer of each Stand of colours was alfo distin
guished by a flambeau, which gave new bril
liance and effect to the military illumination. In

( 318 )
1793. In an early part of the afternoon the fleet ars-
jj^Xl chored oppofite to a fmall, but very pretty
town, on the banks of the river ; and, in
a Short time, the conducting mandarin vifited
the junks, to convey to the whole of the Am
baffador's train, according to their rank, pre
fents of perfumes, fans, imperial tea, and nan
keen.
Monday 18. We now feemed to have quitted the moun
tainous country for an extenfive plain, covered
with plantations of the tallow and mulberry
tree, intermixed with villages, and the orna
mented habitations of mandarins ; fome of
which were faced with a lead- coloured plafter
bordered with white ; — an arrangement of co
lours not uncommon in our own country,
whether applied to the furniture of houfes, of
the drefs Pf ladies.
The provisions which we now received,
though by no means deficient in quantity, were
far inferior in quality to thofe wre received in
the former part of our journey ; which we were
made to underftand arofe from the nature of the
country, rather than from any inattention to
the comfort and convenience of the embaffy.
Indeed, there could be no reafon to fuppofe
that the Emperor had not even been anxious to
render our departure from his kingdom as
agreeable as reipect and exterior honour could make

( 3*9 )
make it. In Short, from Tartary to Canton, it 1793.
was a chain of falutes, which were fo frequent, j^mber.
as I have before obferved, that it might be com
pared almoft to a train of wild-fire laid from
one end of the empire to the other.
I faw a group of water-mills, confifting often
or twelve of them, all turned by a fmall cut
from the river, which made a circuit round a
meadow where they were erected : they bore an
exact refemblance to our flour-mills in England,
and appeared to be worked on the fame prin
ciple : they were now, however, become very
common objects. Thofe, which I have now
mentioned, were employed, as I underftood, in
threfhing rice. Among the various circum
ftances common to the country, we this day
faw a pagoda that rofe to the height of eleven
ftortes. The fleet anchored at night before the gates
of the city of Tooatchou.
The country in fome "degree refumed its Tuefday 19.
former appearance ; the plains on each fide be
ing backed by a long range of mountains rifing
in the horizon.
The fleet anchored this morning before a
very confiderable village, to wait for the junks
of Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton,
which had fallen considerably aftern. Soon

( 32© )
1793* Soon after dinner the whole fleet was moored
November, oppofite to a large town, a fpot which offered
day "o." fuch a difplay of beautiful and contrasted ob
jects, as I never remember to have feen. The
river was, of courfe, the central object of the
picture : on one fide of it was a town with all its
peculiar circumftances ; and before it a military
encampment with all its gay and gaudy decora
tions. On the other fide was a range of lofty,
perpendicular mountains.
The reft of this day was paffed in making
preparations for proceeding a fhort way by
land ; in order to embark in other junks.
Thurf- At an early hour the Ambaffador and his
day 21. •
whole train difembarked, and proceeded in pa
lankins, fedans, and bamboo chairs, or on horfe-
back, as they feverally chofe : for, in all our
expeditions by land the mandarin, Van-Tadge-
In, always confnlted the fuite as to the mode of
travelling they preferred, and never failed in
accommodating them according to their respec
tive inclinations.
The cavalcade proceeded but a fhort way,
before we entered a walled city of confiderable
extent, and with very large fuburbs, called
Chanfoiyeng. It is fituated in a valley formed
by two large hills, and about a quarter of a mile
from the river. On the fummit of one of thefe
eminences is a pagoda of a very ancient con
struction

r( 32* )
ftruction, and flat at the top, inflead of heing 2793.
crowned with a turret, or rifing to a point, like No^er.
thofe which every moment prefented themfelves
to our view. On pafling through the gates of
this city, both as we entered and paffed out of
it, the Ambaffador was honoured, as ufual, with
a difcharge of artillery. The ftreets were very
narrow and lined with Shops, fitted up with
that interior arrangement and difplay of com
modities, as well as exterior decoration, which
diflinguifhed fo many of the towns which we
had vifited.
After pafling another walled city, and feven
villages, which were alio furrounded with walls,
we arrived about one o'clock at the city of Sooep-
ing, where dinner was already prepared. The
remainder of out journey was along a good
road, through a fertile country varied by hills ;
till, after pafling, and Surprising by our appear
ance, a fucceflion of villages, we arrived at five
o'clock at the city of Yoofaun, and were intro
duced to the houfe of a mandarin, oppofite to
the wharf where the junks lay at anchor, in
which we were to continue our voyage. The
baggage of the embaffy had arrived before /us,
and was diftributed in the feveral courts of the
building. After being refreshed with tea, every
one was bufy in feeing their baggage properly
Stowed onboard their refpective junks; and, in
Y *. the.

( 322 )
<J!*b the evening, ' the Ambaflador and his whole re-
Novcraber. ^inue were fafely embarked, apd not only ready,
but anxious to proceed on their voyage.
Iridayw. The rain was without intermiflion fhnmgh
the whole of this day, fo that the junks .vera
prevented from quitting their Situation ; a cir->
cumftance that did pot fail to exercife the pa-.
tience of the paffengers of every rank, who had
not yet learned to prefer the accommodations,
however well contrived, pn board a junk moored
to a wharf, tp the comforts pf an houfe op the
ihore.

CHAR

< 3*3 )

CHAP. XX.
The voyage continued. — Curious circumftances pf the
banks of the river. — The embaffy leaves the junks
fir veffels of a larger fize. — Circumftances of the
voyage. — Appearance of the country. — Prefents
from the mandarin of. Tyaung-fthi-fenna. — Brief
account of tombs ana\fepulchres. — Pafs the tbmb of
Saunt-y-tawn, and a clufter of three cities.— Ar
rive at Chinga-foo.
X HE fleet had failed in the night, and an- 1793.
chored early in the morning before a la*;ge city j^£j££
called Mammenoa. Sunday H-
The river now flowed between a range of
huge unconnected maffes of ftone, which, as
they did not appear to be rOoted in the earth,
cannot be called rocks or craggs, but had all
the appearance of having been disjointed and
thrown about by fome Strange convulsion of na
ture. In the interflices between them there were
veins of earth of different appearances, but not
in regular ftrata ; fome of thefe \vere of a deep
brown or black colour, others were yellow ; and
they were occasionally intermixed with fand
Y % and

.fts- ( ilA >
No^blr anc* Srave^- ^n f°me parts I obferved people
cutting the ftone into the .Shape of bricks, and
in others, there were large heaps of them, which
were of a deep red. Several of thefe huge
ftones had been excavated with great labour,
and formed a fort of dwelling, many of whofe
inhabitants came forth to fee our fleet pafs along
before them. Some of the intervals between
thefe Stones were of fufficient extent to admit
of gardens with their buildings and pagodas,
¦which produced very picturefqpe, romantic,
and delightful pictures. When the country,
which is in the higheft ftate of cultivation, was
let in through the open Spaces between thefe
flopes, it produced a curious and pleaflng per-,
fpeetive. This very Singular and Stupendous
fcenery continued, for a length of feveral miles,
with little change, but what arofe from the
leffer or greater magnitude of the objects, and
the occafional decorations pf art in buildings
and ornamented gardens.
In the afternoon the fleet anchored before the
city of Hoa-quoo, where we were agreeably fur-
prifed to receive orders for the removal of the
embaffy into larger junks, in which we Should
find a very pleaflng chapge in our' accommo
dations and comforts. Thefe junks were haul
ed up along-fide thofe which we then occupied, and,

I 325 )
and, in a very Short time, the whole of the bag- 17.93.
gage was Shifted into them. November.
Here the grand mandarin of Hoa-quoo fent
to each junk, except that which Contained the
foldiers, two cafes of various fruits* and as many
boxes of fweet cakes and confectionary.
The rain which had continued almoft with- Maaday »j;
out ceafing for the laft two days, abated, and
the weather became moderate. The city of ,
Quiol-fliee-fheng, where the fleet anchored for
fome time, has nothing remarkable but its wall,
which is built of the red bricks that I men*
tioned yeflerday.
The appearance of the country was as beau*
tiful as cultivation could make it ; with a few
rocks of red ftone occasionally breaking the
level of it. Near to fome of them there ap
peared to be quarries where the people were
hewing the large ftones into fmaller pieces, of
the fame Size and figure of thofe already de
fcribed. The river had this day a more bufy appear
ance than it had yet affumed, from the great
number of rice mills which were at work on
this part of it.
The fog of this morning fo far obfeured the Tuefday s6.
country, as to render the diftant parts altogether
imperceptible. At noon, however, the atmo-
fphere became clear, and the eye ranged over a
Y 3 flat,

( 3*6 I
*793' flat* but, as ufoal, fertile range of country*
Jfovembtr/ which, as far as I could distinguish, abounded
in fields of rice : but the broadeft and moft un
interrupted level never prefented a dull or unin
teresting profpe^t in any part of China through
which we had pafled ; as the feats of the man
darins and their gardens, with the farm-houfes
fcmbofomed in trees, and the long line of thick
ets that frequently forms the inclofures of fields,
compofe a picture which, though it may not be
altogether fuited to the canvafs, is very pleafing
to the eye in its natural appearance.
The, provifions with which the junks had been
for fome time fupplied, were of fo bad a qua
lity, that we frequently gavd them to the poor
people who conducted the veffels. This day,
however, brought us the hope of better fare, by
an improvement in the quality of the various
articles which were now fent on board : but
our table funk again* on the fucceeding day, to
that ftate of mediocrity to which we had been
habituated finee our departure from Hoang-
tchew. /
Wednef- The niorning was very cold and hazy :¦ — the
thermometer funk to forty-Six degrees.
I Saw feveral fields where the farmers were
bufy in ploughing} and in which branch of huf-
bandry they ufe buffaloes. We were furprifed
alfo with a very unufual fight, which was a vil
lage

( 3*? )
Jage of mud houfes or huts* where the appeal6- *p3>
arice of the inhabitants Was as wretched as their N^mkL
dwellings. This circumftance I was not able
to reconcile to the general induftry of the in>
habitants ; and* particularly, in that abundant
part of the country* where it appeared, to me at
leaft, that induftry could always find a com
fortable fupport.
The fuite this day received from the manda*
tin a prefent of caddies of tea to every perfon
who compofed it.
From the breadth of the river, the Strength of Thurf*
day 18.
the current, and boifterOus wind, the waves run
high* with a violent furf Here the aftortifhing
navigation of the river was varied by a fleet pf
:flfhing-boats* conflfting of atteaft art hundred
fail | and, during the whole of this day's voy-*
age, We continually encountered little Squadrons
of them.
Ip the afternoon 'we paffed the city of
> Tyaung-fhi-fennau, which is not only orie of
the Iargeft places we had yet feen, but the moft:
-commodioufly Situated for commerce, being near
the conflux of feveral rivers ; nor Can I be ac
cufed, with juftice, of the leaft exaggeration,
when I affert, that there were not lefs than a
thoufand junks at anchor before it.
Almoft oppofite to this city* but fituated on
another, branch of the river, is a large town
Y 4 in

( 3*8 )
. :793< in an elevated pofition, but not furrounded
NW^blr'. with a wall, which is called Tfua-feenga. Nof
cart I refift making the obfervation, that, how-,
ever I might be amufed with the variety of
prospects, and novelty of objects which con
tinually folicited and rewarded my attention, I
never felt an interval of aftonjfhment at the
villages, towns, and cities, with which* if I
may ufe the expreffion, the banks of this river
were thronged ; as well as the myriads of peo
ple that they poured forth as we paffed by, or
anchored near them.
The grand mandarin of Tyaung-fhi^fenna
\ came on board the Ambaffador's junk, with a
I - numerous train of attendants, to vifit his Ex-
5 cellency. This ceremonial was accompanied
with prefents of filks* pieces of fine Scarlet cot
ton* various coloured Stuffs, elegant fmelling
bottles, pieces of porcelain, and caddies of the
fineft teai
Friday i9. a. village, whofe houfes are all built with a
blue brick* and roofed with pantiles of the fame
colour, was the orily object in this day's voyage
that poffeffed any circumftance of novelty.
The cities, mandarins' palaces, and pagodas,
did not differ, as far as we could judge, from
thofe which the reader may think, perhaps,
have been too often defcribed. The profpect
of the country was fometimes interrupted by
banks

C 3*9 ) ,
banks of fand which continued for many miles, 1793.
on each fide of the river. ^T^T
November.
We paffed two brick kilns, with a fmall vil
lage around them, built for the accommodation
of the workmen employed in the manufactory.
We could form fome judgment of the trade of
the place by the large quantity of bricks
raifed in regular piles ; both of thofe which
were burned, and fuch as were ready for the
kiln. This place is called Yu-was, which
fignifies* as I was informed, a furnace for
making bricks.
A city, at the diflance of two miles from the Saturday 30.
river, furrounded with meadows and orchards,
and a very pretty fmall town, with feveral de
tached villages feattered about it, we're the only
objects wtiich gratified our attention in the
early part of this day. As we proceeded, the
profpect was more delightful than the imagina
tion can conceive ; not merely from the beauty *
of the objects, but their contraft to each other.
On one fide of the river a verdant plain of vaft
extent, covered with herds of cattle and flocks
of Sheep, ftretched on to a range of lofty rhoun-
tains that rofe boldly in the horizon ; while the
Whole country on- the oppofite fide of the river
was fhaded with forefts, in whofe openings we
could distinguish the humble cottage of the
peafant,

( 33° )
»793- peafant, and the painted palace of the man-
November, darin. Cities and towns, as ufual, continually ap*
peared on each bank of the river ; and having
paffed a fmall lake, we came to a village fur
rounded with trees, and diftinguifhed by the
ruins of a pagoda. The part that remained
confifted of three ftories, and that which had
fallen, lay in fragments about it.
'The river, which was very unequal in its
flze, as well as depth, now expanded into great
breadth ; and as the wind blew freSh* the cur
rent Swelled into what might almoft be called a
rough fea. The waves were fo violent, that
the junk in which I failed, was in great danger
of being overfet.
December. The thermometer was funk fo low as forty
7 x' degrees, and the fields were covered with froth
The country was, for fome time, bounded on
either fide by beautiful mountains* which funk
at length into one unvarying level ; where fields
of rice, and flourishing orchards, were thofe
branches of cultivation which we dould beft
distinguish. I mentioned, on a former occafion* that there
were no public cemeteries, or places of burial,
but in the vicinity of large towns and cities ;
and that* at a diftance from them, the Spot
where a perfon dies always affords him a grave.
Hence

( 33t )
Hence it is that the whole country may be con- 1793«
fidered as a place of burial ; and we could never December.
turn our eyes On either bank of the river, but
fome trophy of death appeared, of rude con
struction, or more elegant form, according to
the rank and opulence of the victim. Nay, it
is not uncommon among the Chinefe, to erect,
during their lives, thofe fad repositories which
are to contain their remains, when they are no
longer numbered among the living. A greater
number than ufual of thefe folemn objects, and
of more distinguished form than are generally
feen, attracted our attention in this part of our
voyage, and fuggefted the preceding obferva-
tions. The town of Taung-fong-au, by which we
now failed, has nothing to distinguish it from
thofe which every hour prefents fo us, but the
pleaflng circumftance, that is not common to
all of them, of its being furrounded with mea
dows, groves, and gardens.
The town of Saunt-y-tawP, ' containing feve*
ral elegant pagodas, which were fedn above the
groves that furrounded it, was a very pleaflng
and picturefque object. A fucceffion of timber
yards covered the banks of the river, and a
large quantity of timber was foaking in the
water before them, which 1 understood to be in
a State of preparation for building junks ; a
prin-

, C te* )
principal buflnefs of the place. It muft, in*
deed, be a principal bufinefs of the country at
large ; for when the internal comirierce of
China is considered, and that almoft the whole
of it is carried on in thefe veffels,' on the nume
rous rivers and canals which every where inter-
fect, and form a communication through, the
greateft part of this extenfive kingdorn ; the
quantity of timber ufed, and the number of ar
tificers employed, in the construction of them,.
muft render any attempt at calculation an idle
prefumption in a perfon under fuch confined
circumftances as myfelf.
The quantity of gunpowder expended in
paying military refpect to the diplomatic fleet,
has, I fear, been already repeated ; but I can
not omit that the Ambaffador received, this day,
more than ufual honour from the artillery of
May-taungo, a very confiderable fortrefs on the
bank of the river.
On the other fide of the water is a very
ftately pagoda, built on an elevated fpot, with
a fmall village feattered about it. It may be
fuppofed to belong to the mandarin, whofe
country refidence is at a fmall diftance from it.
Art and nature have equally combined to
form the feenery of this charming place ; but
the moft diftinguifhing circumftance of it is its
contiguity to a clutter of three cities, which are
not

( 333 )
not feparated by the interval of a quarter of a 1793,
mile from each other. Their names are, Loo ' - '
December.
Dichean, MorrinnDow, and Chic-a-foo. The
latter is built on a large fand bank in the middle
of the river, but they are, all of them, more re
markable for their Situation than their extent ;
or, as it appeared, their commercial importance.
-, Of brick-kilns, indeed, there were plenty about
them ; and at a fmall diftance I faw vaft co
lumns of fmoke, which rofe, as I was informed,
from the furnace of a porcelain manufactory.
In the evening we arrived at the city of
Chinga-foo, where, from the crowd of people,
the buftle made by the attendants of the man
darin, with the difcharge of artillery, and the
firing of rockets, fuch a fcene of noife and con
fufion took place, as would have alarmed the
whole Britifh embaffy on its firft arrival in this
country. Several temporary buildings were erected on
purpofe, as it appeared, to difplay a Complimen
tary illumination of great magnificence, which
was formed by a profufion of lamps, candles,
and flambeaux. *
Aprefent of fruit and confectionary concluded
the attentions which were received during our
anchorage before this city.

CHAP.

(334 )

CHAP. XXI.
The voyage continued; various circumftances of it.—-
Pafs the ruins of an ancient building. — Peculiar
modes of fifloing in China. — Extraordinary cuftom
of employing birds in catching fifth. — Pafs feveral.
cities, towns, &c. — Arrive at Yoo-jenn-au ; its
beautiful fttuat'ion.- — The junks anchor, before
Kaung-joufi)o., — The reception of the Ambaffador.
A. HOUGH this country abounds in a fuc*
ceffion of never-ceafing variety to the traveller,
it will not, I fear, poffefs that pleating appear *
ance in the opinion of: the reader ; as it is im
poffible. to convey, bywords, that diversifying
character to the page of a printed book, which
is feen in every leaf of the volume of nature.
J The flighteft bend of the river prefents a new
profpect, or a new view of what has been al
ready feen. Every city differs from the laft ;
no, two villages have the fame form; and a
multiplicity of circumftances occur, which oc
cafion decided differences in the landfcape
figure of Similar objects, that are incommuni-
\ cable by any art of verbal deferiptiop. Thus,-
I fear,

( 335 )
I fear, it will prove, that, while the writer is '793*
receiving pleafure from the variety of objects December.
that occur to his memory, he is preparing dulU
nefs for the reader by an enumeration of them. •
The weather continued to be cold. — The ri
ver, for feveral miles, was flanked on each fide
by a range of hills ; but the open country again
appeared with its ufual accompaniments of vil
lages, towns, and cities. Thefe, however, were
now relieved by the contrasted appearance of a
magnificent wood, or foreft, that ipread over a
great extent of country.
The feafon of the year was now unfavour
able for rural profpects, but ffill the country,
almoft every hour, prefented fcenes that would.
appear on the canvafs with great advantage, if
reprefented there by the pencil of a mafter.
Though the frequency of pagodas may, fome
times, produce too much uniformity in the prof
pects of China, there are certain Situations
which receive a very great addition, taken in a
picturefque view, from that kind of building.
The city of Fie-cho-jennau was fo obfeured
by the plantations of trees about it, thatwe could
not altogether judge of its extent ; though w©
had now been long enough in China to have
(Other criterion?, by which we Could determine
on the flze or commerce of any place, befides
9 perfonal examination of it. The number of
? junks

( 33* )
i7^3. junks which were anchored near it told fhege-
o^^. neral State of its trade, while the crowd of fpec
tators who came to gaze at us, or the number
of foldiers who were drawn up to falute us,
were fufficient indications of its extent and po
pulation. Of Fie-cho-jennau we had no other
means lo form an opinion, but they were fuf
ficient to fatisfy us that it was in the firft claSs
of Chinefe cities.
Tuefday 3. We, this morning, paffed by the ruins of an
ancient building ; but to what purpofe it had
been originally applied, whether as a temple,
erected by fome great mandarin for his private
worfhip, or a banqueting houfe for his private
pleafure, I fhall not pretend to determine ;
though the opinion of thofe I could confult was
in favour of the former fuggeflion. It had
once been a conflderable edifice, and the apart-
mepts that ftill remained were ornamented with
Shell- work- Thedi lapidated part of the build
ing formed a large heap of ftones and rubbifh.
It was called by the people on board the junks,
Wha-zaun. It is altogether unneceffary when we enter
upon any hjlly or mountainous country, to men
tion the addition of pagodas, which never fail
to accompany it ; as that command of profpect
which is poffeffed by elevated fituation, forms
the delight of thefe buildings, while the height. of

( 337 )
of them marks the dignity of wealth of thofe to
whom they belong.
Situation is an object of univerfal attention
among the Chinefe in erecting their places of
refidence, or of pleafure. Nor do I. recollect
feeing any houfe, or palace of a mandarin,
which was not in the heart of a city, that had
not been erected with a palpable view to the lo
cal circumftances about it. Sometimes they
are feed in vallies, on the declivities of hills,
and the banks of rivers ; while their gardens
never fail to have fomething of~a romantic
character/given to them by artificial rocks, or
ruins, and the introduction of grotefque forms
of art or nature.
In the afternoon we faw a great number of
fifhermen, .who had changed their nets for
rods and lines, and were bufily employed in
their neceffary buflnefs. The modes of catch
ing fifh in the lakes, rivers, and canals of Chi
na, are various, and fome x)f them peculiar to
that country.
In the lakes and large rivers they frequently
ufe the kind of baited lines which are employed
on board Ships to catch fifh in the fea. In other
parts they ufe nets of the fame kind, and in
the fame manner, as the fishermen in Europe.
In feme places they erect talbbamboo Stalks in
the water, to fupport a curtain of ftrong gauze,
Z which

( 333 •)
which th«y extend acrofs certain" channels of
the rivers ; and, where it is. practicable, acrofs
the rivers themfelves, : this contrivance effectu
ally intercepts the paffage of the fifh, which,
from the baits, thrown in or attached to the
gauze, are brought there in Shoals : great num
bers of boats then refort to thefe places, and
the fiShermen are feen to employ their nets with
great fuccefs.
It appeared, however, that the rights of fish
ery axe as Sirenuoufly exerted in China, as in
our own country : for we are informed, that
none of thefe arts to get fifh were employed but
for the mandarin who poffeffed the Shores of
the river, or by thofe who paid a rent for the
privilege. The fifh caught in the rivers which we have
navigated, confift chiefly of a kind of whiting,
and very fine trout, of an excellent quality; and
they are in fuch abundance, that though the
fiShermen are fo numerous, arid the demand fo
great from the junks, the former gain a -^ery
good livelihood, and the latter are well fupplied
with a food, which the crews of them are faid
to prefer.
But the moft extraordinary mode of fifhing
iP this country, and .which, I believe, is peculiar
to it, is by birds trained for that purpofe. Nor
are hawks, when employed in the air, or hounds,
i when

( 339 )
when following a feent on the earth, more fa- 1793.
gaciousin the purfuit of their prey, or more cer- o«i*mb«.
tain in obtaining it, than thefe birds in another
element. Thev are called Looau, and are to be
found, as I am informed, in no other country than
that in which we faw them. They are about the
flze of a goofe, with grey plumage, webbed feet*
and have a long and very Slender bill, that is
crooked at the point. This extraordinary aqua
tic fowl, when in its wild ftate* has nothing'
uncommon in its appearance, nor does it differ
from other birds whom nature has appointed to
live on the water. It makes its neft among the
reeds of the fhore, or in the hollows of crags, or
where an ifland offers its fhelter and protection.
Its faculty of diving, or remaining under water,
is not more extraordinary than many other fowls
that prey upon fifh : but the moft wonderful
circumftance, and I feel as if I were almoft
rifquing my credibility while I relate it, is the
docility of thefe birds in employing their natu
ral inflinctive powers, at the command of the
fifhermen who poffefs them, in the fame man
ner as the hound, the fpaniel, or the pointer,
fubmit their respective fagacity to the huntfman,
or the gunner.
The number of thefe birds' in a boat are pro
portioned to the flze of it. At a certain Signal
*hey ruth into*,the water, and dive after the fifh ;
Z 2 and

( 34° )
1793- a°d the moment they have feized the prey, they
j^^. fly with it to their boat ; and Should there be
<an hundred of thefe veffels in the fleet, thefe
fagacious birds always return to theirown maf-
ters, and, amidft the throng of fifhing junks
which are Sometimes affembled on thefe occa
sions, they never fail to distinguish that to which
they belong, When the fifh are in great plenty,
thefe aftonifhing and industrious purveyors
will foon fill a boat with them ; and will fome
times be feen flying along with a fifh of fuch
Size, as to make the beholder, who is unaccuf-
tomed to thefe fights, fufpect his organs of vi
sion ; nay, it has been fo repeatedly afferted to
me as to prevent any doubt of the information,
that, from their extraordinary docility and faga-
city, when one of them happens to have taken
a fifh which is too bulky for the management
of a <fingle fowl, the reft will immediately af
ford their afliflance. But while they are thus
labouring for their matters, they are prevented
from paying any attention to themfelves, by a
ring which is paffed round their necks ; and is
( fo contrived as to frustrate any attempt to fwal-
low the leaft morfel of whaS they take.
We alfo Saw another fifhing party, which,
though it had more of ridicule than curiofity in
if, I cannot forbear to defcribe. It conflfled of
at leaft thirty fiShermen feated like fo many
taylors-

( 34i )
taylors on a wide board, fupported by props in 1793.
the river, where they were angling. There was ^^r
another groupe of thefe people near the fhore,
v/ho had embanked a part of the river with
Sand, where, by raking the bottom with a kind
of Shovel, they caught large quantities of Shrimps
and other Shell fifh.
At an- early hour in the afternoon we arrived
before the city of Vang-on-chean, where the
junks anchored for two hours, and the Ambaf
fador received a vifit from the grand mandarin.
This place is of confiderable extent, and covers
the whole flat that lies between the river and a
range of high rriountains.
The river was for fome diftance enlivened by wedmf-
_ * m dav 4.
a fucceffion of villages on each flde of it. We
#ien paffed feveral confiderable towns, which
were fucceeded by a double range of Sleep and
craggy hills, with groves and thickets hanging
down them ; and wherever there was any flat
or level fpot, whether it was towards the bottom
of thefe cliffs, or midway, or on their fummits,
an houfe was erected, which formed the moft
delightful "and romantic feenery that can be
conceived. I have already obferved, that, in this part of
our travels through China, the villages were
not only populous, but in general of a pleaflng
appearance, and that a clutter of cottages, whofe
Z 3 exterior

( 34* )
t793- exterior form betrayed internal wretchednefs, is
ite^bw. by no means a common object. This morning,
however, prefented us with one of them, where
the habitations were, in a great meafure, formed
of logs of wood ; but the eye had not leifnre to
give them more than a glance of commiferation,
fo very alluring were ' the charms of the fur-
rounding country ; where, not only the resi
dences of perfons of distinction, but the village
and the farm houfe, are placed in the mPfl ro
mantic Situations, and individually difplay the
mrift pleaflng pictures, or together, compofe the
magnificence, of landfcape.
Thurf- The weather was become moderate and plea-*
day 5; _ A
fant ; but the river was fo Shoaly in fome places,
and had fuch a rocky bottom in others,-- that it
was considered as dangerous to proceed after
fun-fet. The penciljof a mafter might here commu
nicate fome general idea of the peculiar beau?
ties of the country through which we paffed,
and the continual variation of it ; but it is not
in the power of language to convey any correct
image even of the individual objects, much lefs
of the picture formed by the combination of
them. When I mention that I have feen forefts
and gardens, mountains and vallies, the palace
and the cottage, the city and the village, the
pagoda and the mill, with a variety of Subordi nate,

( 343 )
nate, but heightening circumftances, in one t"793'
view, I certainly inform my readers of the con- Decsmber.
ftituent parts of the profpect ; but to give them
the leaft notion of their actual arrangement and
relative fituation, of their proportions and con
traft, of their general diftance from the eye, and
comparative diflance from each other, is be
yond any exertion 0 verbal defcription.
At a large town, called Yoo-jenn-au, which
is fituated at the foot of a very high mountain,
the river whereon wc had failed fo long com
municates with another equally capacious with
itfelf. The Situation of this place may be in
fome meafure conceived, when we confider its
petition at the influx of, two large rivers, both
pouring their Streams from mountainous and
rocky chafms, whofe declivities are enriched
with woods of various trees, and adorned, where
they are capable of receiving ornament from the
hand of art, with airy buildings and hanging
gardens. My curiofity led me to examine feveral houfes
which were building at this place, when I ob
ferved that the fcaffolding before them was con-
ftructed according to the principles which the
builders and bricklayers of oUr owp country
employ in Similar erections.
We paffed an ifland that divided the river
into two equal channels, and which fome man-
Z 4 darin

December,

( 344 )
1793. darin had made the place of occaflonal retire
ment. It contained an elegant houfe, with
groves and gardens, and formed a charming
contraft to the Shores of rock and fand, on either
fide of the water that furrounded it.
It will be fufficient to add, that the country
never appeared in a more beautiful or romantic
drefs, by day, flnce we entered it; and the city
of Kaung-joo-foo prefented the moft brilliant
illumination we had feen by night /
A prefent Of fruit, cakes, and confectionary,
concluded the many complimentary attentions,
which the embaffy received at this place.

\

>

CHAP.

( 345-)

CHAP. XXII.
The voyage continued. — The manner in which the
Chinefe water their fields. — Sepulchres. — Change
in the appearance of the country. — Leave the
river at the city of Ifaung-aum-foo to travel over
land. — Circumftances of the journey. ,-r— Arrive at
the city of Naung-chin-oa. — Some account of it.—
Ihe Ambaffador re-embarks to continue the voyage
down another river.

I

N this part of the river we faw a great num- i793.
ber of the machines at work with which the ^~~VT>
December.
Chinefe water their grounds. They confift of ¥r'^ 6*
a wheel made of bamboo, which is turned by
the Stream, and throws the water into large re-
fervoirs, from whence it is let off by Sluices into
channels that interfect the fields.
The pretty village of Shaiboo, fituated on
an high bank of the river, is the only object
that recalls the eye from -wandering over the
general beauty of the country; till, at the turn
pf the ftream, the attention is folicited by the
pagoda of Tau-ay, an ancient and very lofty
building, whofe upper ftory being fallen, gives
jit a more picturefque appearance, and is, on
that

( 346 )
*V&' that account, emblematical of the little ceme-
peccmbcr. tcry beneath it, which contains feveral fepul-
chres and other memorials of the dead. But
whether this fpot fo appropriated belongs to
any city or town, which we could not perceive,
or is theburying place of any particular family
of distinction, 1 could not learn. Though the
ground at the foot of this pagoda is affigned to
the dead, the upper part of the building is fo
fituated as, to delight the living by the view it
affords of the furrounding country, and the
windings of the river, for a very confiderable
, diftance. I cannot omit mentioning the town of
Whang-ting-taun, not merely becaufe its en
virons are divided between woods and rice
. fields, but, as it is the only place of any im
portance which we have feen in our voyage of
this day. Villages were, as ufual, in frequent
fucceflion ; and among many of them which
wore the appearance of induftry and comfort,
we were diffatisfied with a collection of huts,
that did not appear to be capable of preferving
their inhabitants from the inclemency of winter,
or the heat of Summer.
Saturday 7. This wras the moft extraordinary day which
we had yet known in China, as we neither faw
city, town, or village, in the courfe of it. A
few firm houfes, with their, orchards, were the
only

( 347 )
only habitations that we faw in the extent of 1793.
beautiful country through which we pafled ; nor Dct^ber,
could I, by any inquiries in my power to make,
difcover whether it arofe from acciderit, or any
local circutnftance, that the banks of the river,
which had fo long'teemed with cities, towns,
and villages, with palaces and pagodas, Should
at once become fo barren of them.
But though we were, for fome time, deprived
of the wonders of population, a very Singular
and curious object accompanied a confiderable
part of this day's voyage, to continue, in fome
degree, the exercife of our afloniShment.
It was a very lofty, perpendicular, natural
mound of red earth, that embanked one flde
of the river, whofe naked furface was marked
in a very extraordinary manner by horizontal
veins or flripes of ftone, in a direction as per
fectly rectilinear, as if they had been made
with the line or the rule; and which continued
without any apparent deviation, from this won
derful regularity, during a courfe of feveral
miles. The river was now become fo fhallow, that
it was neceffary to change feveral of the large
junks for fuch as would draw lefs water, a cir
cumftance which occafloned fome delay ; and
it was not till eight o'clock that we paffed the
only inhabited place of this day's voyage ; and
which

( 348 )
which might now have efcaped our notice, if
the foldiers of the cantonment had not exhibited,
their paper lanterns, and difeharged a few vol-
lies of refpe^t towards us.
s-unday g. The weather has, for fome time, been tem
perate and pleafant ; the country alfo has gra
dually loft its fertile appearance, and is now
become mountainous and barren ; ferae of the
mountains, indeed, are covered with wood,
but the, furface of the earth has here loft all
that richnefs which had fo long cloathed it.
The population of the country may be fup
pofed to have fuffered a proportionate diminu
tion ; but the villages, though they are more
thinly fcattered than they have hitherto been,
become more picturefque obje6ts both from their
form -and fituation.
The high grounds near the river, in many
places, lofe their abrupt and rugged appearance
beneath the verdure of dwarf-trees of various
kinds, among which the camphire tree is faid to
predominate. But though the profpect was now becorne a
mere fucceflion of rude mountain and barren
valley, it was fometimes enlivened by a pagoda
in the diftance, while the village ftill continued
to animate the banks of the river.
We now obferved feveral fepulchres or fu
neral monuments that had been erected in va
rious

( 349 )
rious parts of the mountains, with excavations 1793.
in the rocks beneath them to receive the dead. DecImTer.
That an amiable fuperflition might wifh to
confign the remains of the parent or the child,
the friend or the relation, to fuch a fepulchral
retreat, elevated as it were above the world,
and, as it might be thought by the Pagan my
thology, nearer to that heaven, where their
Spirits were defliPed to wing, or had already
taken their flight, is not inconfiflent with the
beft feelings of nature and religion. But fome
of thefe places Sacred to the dead appeared to us,
at leaft, to be in fuch Situations, as to render
the attempt to gain accefs to them, a circum
ftance of no fmall hazard to the living.
About fun-fet we paffed a large town called
Syn^cham-au, which is fituated on a fmall plain
between the river and fome high mountains
covered with wood , nor is this romantic ap
pearance leffened by a large pyramidical rock,
with a very lofty pagoda that crowns its fum
mit. Two considerable towns and feveral' villages, Monday 9.
with their junks, were the principal objects of
this day's voyage ; till we arrived in the even
ing at the city of Naung-aum-foo. As the
embaffy was to make a journey"of one day over
land from this place, preparations were made
accord-. -

( S$* )
1793- accordingly under the ufual directions of th&
December, attendant mandarin.
Tuefday lo. The Ambaffador ordered four dollars to be
given to the crews of the respective junks ; and,
after an hafly breakfaft, the fuite followed the
baggage which had been previously fent on
Shore, The landing-place was adorned with a grand
triumphal arch, decorated with fllk and Strea
mers of various colours. Here I was prefented
with a ticket, the meaning of which I did not
comprehend. I then proceeded along a kind
of platform, covered with fine matting; its roof
and railing were ornamented with ribands and
filk, in the fame manner as the triumphal arch,
and a range of lamps were fufpended in a very
elegant form on each fide of it.
This platform led to a circular court, fur
rounded by a fcreen of fllk, which contained,
as well as I could calculate from the view of
them, between two and three hundred horfes,
attended by their owners ; and from which
every perfon in the Ambaffador's retinue was
at liberty to chufe a beaft for the journey of
the day ; as from the badnefs of the roads, and
the length of the wray, it was ordered that the
whole fuite, except the Ambaffador, Sir George •
Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, Should proceed on
horfeback. I accordingly chofe an horfe, for
which

( 3St )
which I was obliged to deliver the ticket already x7^
mentioned. It was a very wild and mettlefome December.
freed, which, on my firft mounting him, was
fo reftive and unmanageable, that I wifhed fo
make an exchange ; but I had delivered my
ticket, and was obliged to abide, by my choice,
fuch as it was.
When all the arrangements were fettled, the
horfes felected, and the whole fuite transformed
into a body of cavalry, his Excellency, with Sir
George Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, came from
the junk to their palankins, and the cavalcade
commenced, attended by a confiderable body
of Chinefe foldiers.
Naung-aum-foo is a walled city of confider
able extent, built on a rifing ground above the
river, and is commanded, both behind, and on
the oppofite fide of the water, by lofty hills ;
on one of which is feen a folitary pagoda. Its
fuburbs are large, and, from thz number of
fmall junks, fuited to the fhallownefs of the
ftream that wafhes its banks, it may be efteemed
a place of fome commercial character.
In about half an hour we got clear of
the city, when every exterior object was loft in
attending to the peculiarities of our own ap
pearance. Such a troop of equeftrians are not
often feen in China, or any other part of the
world. The gentlemen of the fuite, with the
mechanics,

( 35* )
'793' mechanics, foldiers, apd fervants, were all oft
December, horfeback ; many of whom were but indifferent
riders, and fome of them now found them
felves obliged to ride for the firft time. The
borfes themfelves, ori fetting out, were alfo
Very frolickfome and Ungovernable ; fo that the
ridicule that attached itfelf to our general ap
pearance, and the diverfion which fucceffively
occurred from the cries of alarm, the awkward-
nefs of attitude, and the various other circum-
flances, which the reader, without having been
in China, may very readily conceive, ferved to
amufe the tedioufnefs of travelling through a
mountainous and unproductive country.
At noon we came to the foot of a. mountain,
which was fo Steep as to make it neceffary for
us to difmount, and lead our horfes over it : it
was an afcent of two miles, which employed an
hour in climbing. We paffed feveral villages,
and dined at the town of Lee-cou-au* where a
confiderable body of foldiers, in armour, lined
the road as we paffed ; and both on entering,
as well as quitting the lines, the Ambaffador
was faluted with the difcharge of three pieces of
artillery. This military parade, with the variety
of colours, which never failed to accompany the
leaft appearance of foldiery, had a very pretty
effect. The

( 353 )
• The wbrrieri, in this part of our jourriey* 17934
were either educated with lefs referve, of allowed De^ber,
a greater Share of liberty, than in the country
through which we had lately paffed, as we fre
quently faw them indulging their curiofity in ob
ferving fuch a new and extraordinary fight as
we muft have exhibited.
I have already rhentioned, that we had for
fome time exchanged a fertile for an unpro
fitable foil ; and all the fplendor of cultivation
for the barren mountain. The eye was, how-^
ever, fometimes relieved by large patches of
campbire, and other medicinal trees ; as I was
informed by thofe who, I prefume* were qua
lified to inflruct rne.
The fun had fet when we arrived af the *
gates of the city of Naung-chin-qa. It Stands
in a plain, furrounded on three fides by moun
tains ; on the fourth and to the fouth, flows
the river on which \ve were to continue our
voyage. It is a place of fome extent and con-,
fiderable commerce. The ftreets, like thofe of
almoft all the towns we have feen in China, are
Very narrow, but they have the advantage of
being well paved, and equally maintained in
the material article of cleanlinefs. The houfes
are chiefly of wood, and their general height
is two ftories. Though elegance, interior or.
exterior, is not the peculiar character of this
A a place>

( 354 )
1 793- place, fome of the fliops were gilt and varnifhed
Dc-emicr. m a manner that might bring them within that
denomination. At every door in the ftreets,
after furi-fet, a large paper larnp is hung up,
and forms a very pretty illumination. Thefe
lamps difplay the name of the perfon who lives '
in the houfe, his trade, and the articles in
which he traffics. The palaces Of the manda-
¦¦ rins are alfo ornamented with lamps, accord
ing to the dimensions of the building, or the
rank of their inhabitants.
The ftreets were lined with foldiers to repreSs
the curiosity $f the people, which would,
otherwife, have impeded our paffage ; and it
was near feven o'clock when we arrived at the
palace of the grand mandarin of the city. It
is a very noble refidence, compofcd of various
courts, and feveral ranges of apartments. In
fpacibus open galleries, on each fide of the
firft court, tables were plentifully fpread with
tea, meats of various kinds, and fruits, for
the refreshment of the inferior orders of the
Suite ; while other galleries, that opened on the
interior courts, were magnificently illuminated,
and prepared for the higher department of it.
In Short, throughout the palace there was
fuch a profufion of lamps and other lights, as,
in my unexaggerated opinion, would ferve the
palace of an European fovereign for a month. But

( 355 )
But without this obfervation, which I believe 1793.
to be founded in fact, it muft have already ap~ Dumber*.
peared, in the courfe of this Narrative, that il
lumination is a very principal feature of Chinefe
magnificence* The Ambaffador and Sir George Staunton
preferred going to the junks inflead of pafling
a night in the palace ; and, accordingly, after
having taken the refreshment prepared on their
arrival, they repaired to them. The reft of the
embaffy remained on Shore, and apartments
were affigned them for their repofe.
The baggage which was brought all the way
from Naung-aum-foo on men's Shoulders,* ar
rived by degrees ; but the whole of it had not
reached its destination till nine o'clock ; when
all the mandarin's principal fervants aflifled in
depositing it in along gallery, where it was ar
ranged with the utmoft regularity ; each pack
age having a ticket pafted on it, corresponding
with the junk to which it was to be removed on
the following day.

A a a CHAP.

(35* )

CHAP. XXIII.
Tl?e fuite embarks on board the junks ; the voyage
renewed ; circumftances of it. — A curious pagoda.
— Defcription of fepulchres.—Vdft rafts of timber.
• — Embark in larger .junks. — Pafs fome curious
mountains; a defcription cf them. — Extraordinary
illumination.
1793. XTlT an early hour of the rfidrning the bag-
lf^ffffffu Ia£e was puVon board the junks, with a regu-
l£u~. larit7> as well as difpatch, that eanildt "Well be
defcribed. Thefe was :a fuffidient depth of
water in this river to bring the' junks clcife to
the'quay ; Yo that the coolies, of which there
were a great number, act ing uPder the orders
of the mandarin and his fervants, and guarded
by foldiers, foon transferred every article that
belonged to the embaffy on board the veffel to
which it was fpecifically affigned.
The junks to which we were now removed
were of lefs dimensions than thofe we had left ;
in conformity to the navigable flate of the
river* which only admitted veffels of fmall bur
then. About

( 357 )
Abppt eleven o'cjpck the fuite were all on 2793«
board, and the whole fleet was ready for Sail- DcVe.nber.
ing. We accordingly renewed our voyage,
and begap it by pafling under a wooden bridge
of feven arches, or rather, if accuracy of ex>
preflion Should be cpnfidered as indiSpenfable,
of fevep intervals. Thefe intervals are formed
by ftrong ftone pillars, built in the water, and
overlaid with planks, guarded by a double
railing. This Structure Stretches acrofs the >
river, to form a communication between thofe
parts of the fuburbs of Naung-chin-oa, which
are divided by it. Forts garrifoned with troops,
and well fupplied with artillery, guarded either
end of it; nor was the fleet unnoticed by them j.
as in pafling the bridge it was honoured by the,
parade of the one, and the difcharge of the
.other. The city itfelf is alfo well defended by
walls, which are, at leaft, thirty feet in height
towards the river, with ramparts that take the
whole circuit of the place, and fquare towers
which are not .confined to the gates, but appear
to rife above the walls in other advantageous
fituations. At a fmall diftance from the bridge the river
divides into two branches, that take almoft op-.
pofite directions : on that whofe flream bore us.
along, we Saw a, large quantity of fmall timber
in, rafts. A a. 3 Ip:

( 358 )
1793- In the afternoon we -paffed a pagoda, fituated
Declmbcr. 0n a bank of the river, which was of a more
Singular appearance than any of the great*
-number of that-kind of edifice which we had
' feerf in our travels through the country. It con
fifted of five ftories, which terminated in a flat
roof, with trees growing on it. The body of
the building, from many parts of which alfo
fhrubs .appeared to Sprout forth, was covered
with a white plafter, and decorated with red
paint in its angles and interftices.
The country ftill remained barren and moun
tainous ; nor was its rude and dreary afpect
enlivened by any appearance of cultivation. A
confiderable town called Chang-fang, was the
pnly place we paffed in the fhort voyage of this
day.
Tburf- The natural face of the country was ftill
da^r 12,' ... . -
' dreary ; and its artificial circumftances did not
enliven it by their character. The mountains,
as we paffed by them, exhibited a great num
ber of thofe fepulchres of which fome defcrip
tion has been already given. Thefe, as the for
mer, were in fituations not eafily acceffible, and
varied in their appearance, as may be fuppofed,
according to the wealth or dignity of the perfon
whofe remains they already contained, or were,
hereafter, deftined to inclofe.
" When

< 359)
When we mentioned thefe folemn repofi- »793-
lories in a former page, the thought fuggefted December.
itfelf, that fuperftition might carry the dead to
thofe high places,, on the fame principle that
idolatry has raifed its altars there : but, when
it is considered that the dreary, uncultivated
mountain is fuited to the -character of the., Se
pulchre ; and that there is, perhaps, fomething
confolatory in the idea of that fecurity which be
longs to thefe awful, and almoft inacceffible fo-
litudes ; we. may probably approach nearer to
the real motives of consigning the dead to thefe
elevated tombs.
The general construction of them appears to
be the Same : it confifts of an excavation in the
mountain, chifelled out in the form of a large
niche, which is then paved, and coricealed by a
wall with an ornamented door. Some of thefe
places are covered with domes ; from others py-
ramidical. forms fpringnp, and the facades of
them were, as far as I could distinguish, painted
of a lead colour, with a white border,
Thefe receptacles of the dead were fucceeded
by few habitations of the living that have any
claim to particular notice or obfervation, till .
we came to the large and populous village of
Ty-ang-koa. Here we faw a vafl length of
rafted timber floating down the river, with
feveral bamboo huts erected on it, and the fa-
Aa 4 milies

( 36° )
^793^ miles belonging to them. Great numbers of
pecerpber. people were alfo employed in bringing timber
to the water fide, either on their Shoulders, or
in waggons ; while others were occupied in
forming rafts.
The copntry flill retaips its barrep afpect,
though a pagoda was occasionally feen to grace
the furrimits of the mountains.
Friday 13. Wp this day paffed a confiderable town,
called Tya-wapng, part of which was in ruins;
and, a little further clown the river, we came to
the city of Shaw-chpo ; the fuburbs of which
extend to the water fide, and where the houfes
a.re built in fuch a manner as to be in conti
nual danger of falling on the heads pf their
inhabitants, and involving them in one com
mon deftruction. A wooden frame work,
refling fometimes upon a foundation of clay or
ftone, with a few flender uprights, are the only
fupports of thofe habitations that ranged along
the fhore ; where frequent ruins manifested the
folly as well as the frailty of fuch architec
ture. The fleet came to an anchor at the extre
mity of the pity, before the palace of the grand
mandarin, which was finely decorated with
triumphal arches : a platform was alfo erected
from the banks of the river tp the houfe, to ac
commodate the Ambaffador, ¦ if his Excellency had

( 36! )
had found it convenient to go on fhore. The 1793,
foldiers belonging to the mandarin were alfo j^mbci
drawn up in due form^ and gave the ufual fa
lute. At this place large junks were prepared to
receive the embaffy ; and, in a very Short time,
the whole fuite and the baggage were removed
on board them, Our accommodations Were
accordingly increafed in proportion to the fu
perior dimenfions of the veffels that now con
tained us.
In the evening the grand mandarin fent the
fuite a very handfome prefent of china, toge
ther with a large fupply pf provifions ; we alfo
received, at a late hour in the evening, a large
parcel pf tobacco, feme ducks cured in the
manner of hams, of a. very delicate flavour,
together wifh a confiderable quantity of dried
fifh. '
The voyage was this day agreeably varied by
an occasional, though not very frequent patch
of cultivated ground, which, whatever might^be
its fhape, flze, or fituation, was now become.
a cheering object.
The weather was moderate and pleafant ; and Samr.'ay 14.
though there appeared a very fmall proportion
pf cultivated land, the mountains were fome
times cloathed with wood. The village of
Shopng-koank* fituated on a plain, with the
' river,

( 36* )
river before, and an amphitheatre of mountain*,
behind it, drew our attention as a very pleaflng
object, and furprifed us with the number of
inhabitants which it poured forth to fee. the
Strangers pafs.
I have already mentioned that fmall portions
of cultivated ground now began, though very
rarely, to make their appearan.ee : this circum
stance, however, had no influence on our flip-
plies ; as the provifion-boats of to-day brought
us the fame indifferent eatables which, we had,
for fome time, been accuftomed to.
In the evening, the hills gradually approached
the river, till, at length, they clofed upon it,
and formed a rude and lofty barrier, which, at
once, confined and obfeured its channel. This
fcenery continued for a confiderable diflance,
, as it were, on purpofe to lead the eye to a
mountain of fuch ftupendous magnitude, as
the defcription which I am about to give, will
not be" able to convey, I fear, to the mind of
my readers. It was fo late as feven o'clock at
night before we arrived at the commencement
of it; but the moon Shone in allher Splendour,
and enabled the eye to trace every part of this
,enormous object with lefs diftinctnefs, perhaps,
as to minute parts, but with better effect as te>
iti. magnificent outline. .. This

( 3*3 )
: This mountain rifes from the river to ihe 1793.
perpendicular height of at leaft three hundred cWmber.
yards. The face it prefents towards the water
is divided between bare rock and fhaggy foli
age : the upper part appears, in fome places,
to project over the river, and offers a moft
tremendous fhape to the voyagers who fail be
neath it : when, therefore, to fuch an elevation
of folid rocky mountain, with its rugged bafe,
and craggy fummits, is added the extent of
pear two miles of lengthening precipice, feme
faint notion may be entertained of this Stupen
dous object.
Its terrnination is equally abrupt with its be
ginning : and all its parts Support the favage
grandeur of the whole. On the extreme point,
as we paffed down the river, a pyramidical rock
appeared to fpring up to a confiderable height
above the edge of the precipice, and finifhed in
a peak. This immenfe fhape is feparated by an in-' ^
tervening plain, that extends to the foot of dif
tant mountains, from another enormous rock ;
which, though of different form, and lefs ex
tent, poffefles the fame awful and majeftic
character. It rifes with a fleep but gradual
afcent from the river to a certain height ; when
it Shoots up, as it were, in a bold, unvarying,
perpendicular elevation, to the clouds, afford ing

( 3*4 )
ing another vaft example of tlie fublira^ m
nature. -
As a range of hills may be faid to conduct
us along the river to thefe ftupendous objects,
a fucceflive boundary of the fame kind con
tinued during a courfe of feveral miles after
we had left them. But it was the peculiar
office of this extraordinary night to awaken our
afloniShment by the grand exertions of art, as
well as by the enormous works of nature ; for,
at the condufipn of this chain pf hills, that had
fo Jong excluded any view into the country, we
were furprized with a line of light that extepded
for feveral miles over mountains and vallies, at
fome diftance from the river, and formed one
uninterrupted blazing outline as they rofe or
funk in the horizon.
In feme parts of t&is brilliant, undulating
Jjne, it was varied or thickened, as it appeared
by large bands or groups of torches j and, on
ihe moft conspicuous heights immenfe bonfires.
threw their flames towards the cfouds. Nor was
this all, for the lights did not only give the out
line of the mountain, but fometimes ferpepti-
fed up it, and connected, by a fpiral Stream of
light, a large fire blazing at the bottom, with
that which reddened the fummit.
The number of lanterns, lamps, or torches
employed on this occafion, are beyond all cal-
ax culation,

( 3*5 )
euiatioP* as the two extremities of the inumi- 1793.
nated fpace, taken in a ftrait line, and without D«|^
estimating the' Sinkings of the vallies, or the in
equality of the mountain tops, could not con
tain a lefs diftance from each other than three
miles. Whether thefe lights were held by an
army of foldiers* and a very large one would
have been neceffary on the occafion, or were
fixed in the ground, I Could not learn ; but it
was certainly the moft magnificent illumination
ever feen by the European traveller, and the moft
Splendid compliment ever paid to the public dig
nity of an European Ambaffador. Not only a
vail range of country, but the courfe of the
river, for feveral miles, received the light of
day from this artificial blaze. Succeffive dis
charges of artillery were, at regular diftances*
added to the honour of this amazing and moft
'ftiperb -Spectacle.

c

CHAP.

(. 366 )

CHAP. XXIV.
Ihe voyage continued. — Defcription of a curious
mountain. — Various circumftances of the river. —
Arrive at the city of Tuyng-yan-yean. — Pafs nu
merous villages, 'towns, rcic. — Anchor before the
city of lyantian.— Arrive at Canton.— Formali
ties on the occafion, &c.
AT feven o'clock this morning the whole fleet
Came to an anchor beneath a mountain, which
Sunday i5. js confldered by the Chinefe, in refpect to its
elevation, figure, and extent, as one of the na
tural wonders of their country. It is called
Koan-yeng-naum. The grand mandarin, who had the care of
conducting the embaffy, with that attention
which distinguished every part of his official
duty, had Ordered the fleet to flop in this place,
in order to give the Ambaflador, and his reti
nue, an opportunity of indulging their curiofity,
by taking a view of this extraordinary mountain.
It rifes perpendicularly from the water to an
amazing height, and terminates iri a peak.
Vaft pieces of the rock project from the face of
it in fuch a manner, as to have a moft tremen dous

*793'-
December.

( 3^7 )
dous and threatening afpect ; nor is it eafy to 1793*
perfuade onefelf, on looking up, that they will Dumber,
not inflantly fall and fill up the channel of the
river beneath them.
Several large caverns are among the curious
circumftances of this mountain. The principal
of them is about forty feet above the river, and
the paffage to it confifts of a flight of fifty fteps
cut out of the rock, and guarded by a rail ; the
whole afcent being over-Shadowed by a projec
tion of the mountain. A door, prettily orna
mented with painting, opens into an handfome
room of about forty feet in circumference, and
nine feet in height, which contains a facred
image, to whom the Chinefe, on their entrance,
pay their adorations. There is alfo a window,
, chifelled through the ftone, with a balcony be
fore it, from whence there is a delightful pro-
fpect of the river. From this chamber we
afcended, by an artificial Staircafe, to two other
apartments of the fame flze as the former, and
fitted up in a manner fuited to the character
of the place.
Thefe rooms were excavated at the expenfe
of the mandarin to whom the mountain belongs,
and muft have been a work.of incredible la-
bour. At the foot of the fteps^ an arch had,
been erected, with the ufual decoration of filk
and ribands of various colours.
3 , Though

( 368 )¦
Though the country ftill continued to be rude
and uncultivated* it was, occafionally, varied by-
large woods that hung down the fteeps, or
thickened in the vallies. 'The ranges of moun
tains alfo, that branch off from Koan-yeng-
naum; take fuch different directions, as to forrri
a variety of. grand, and even fublime pictures
of nature.
At noon the fleet anchored, for a fhort time,
before the city of Shizing-ta-heng ; fituated on
the upper part of an inclined plain, that ad
vances with a fcarce perceptible afeent from a
large fandy beach of the fiver, to the foot of the
mountains that rife behind it. This plain is
alfo adorned with the rrioft beautiful frees, fo
that the view may be Suppofed to conflft of a
river in the fore-part of it, a fine plain, covered
with plantations, Stretching away frorp the
banks, and a large city beyond it, hacked by a
bold unequal range of mountains. When to
thefe circumftances are added, the woods oh the
oppofite fide of the river, and the magnificent
pagoda which rifes before them, 'the beaUty of
the landscape may be conceived without any
very uncommon tiretch of the imagination.
The river in a very winding courfe, now af
forded but little variety. The fame .lofty bar
riers continued to confine its courfe ; and where
a cafual opening fuffered the eye to advance beyond

December.

( 3^9 )
beyond them, it looked towards nothing more 1793
than Similar objects, with no other circumftances
of variation but fuch as might be fuppofed to
arife from the popularities of light and Shadow,
and the diminution of diftance.
We not only obferved, but alfo heard the
labours, of large bodies of people, who were
employed in blowing up certain parts of the
rocks, to obtain that ftone with which the
Chinefe form their pavements, whether for their
houfes, courts, or public ways.
Beneath one of thefe, mountains was a large
village^ which had a very mean appearance ;
and, as I afterwards learned, was entirely in
habited by the people employed in blowing up
rQcks, and working quarries, that were in the
neighbourhood of it.
Several Spires of flnoke, afcending from She
mountains, attracted our attention ; when, on
making inquiry concerning the fires that occa
sioned them, we found that it was a procefs
preparatory to agriculture ; by burning the
heath on certain parts of thefe elevated Situa
tions, in order to commence the experiment of
cultivation. The evening of this day was alfo cheered by
an illumination of the diftant hills ; and though
it did not, in any degree, equal, either in extent
or fplendor, that which had fo lately excited our
B b aftonifh-

( 37° )
afloniShment, it had a very Singular' effect, and
exhibited a very pleaflng appearance.
Rugged and fleep rocks, fome of which were
covered with wood, ftill continued to inclofe,
on either fide, the channel of the river. Among
them arofe a large mountain, Shaded by an
hanging foreft, which was not only a very grand "
object in itfelf, but was alfo accompanied with
circumftances that enlivened and adorned it.
At the foot of it a road had been cut out of the
folid rock, and to communicate with it a large
arch of ftone Stretches acrofs a deep chafm. In
the center of the wood, there is the palace of a
mandarin, furrounded with detached offices,
and at fome fmall diftance a temple which be
longs to it, and contains the image which is the
ufual object of religious worfhip. There are
feveral burying places in different parts of the
wood, which are the maufoleums of the man
darin's family to whom the palace belongs. It
is called Tre-liod-zau.
This magnificent object, which, on a parti
cular turn of the river/prefented itfelf in charm
ing perspective, is very much heightened by a
contrasted fucceffion of bare and barren moun
tains. This rude and rugged feenery, at length, be
gan tofublide; when a rich, fertile level opened
again upon us ; and after we had been accuf-
4 tomed

( ¦37*-')
< horned for feven days to the bleak and barren *793»
appearances of nature* the tranquil fcenes of Dumber.
Cultivation afforded a moft refrefhing profpect.
We now paffed the city ofl Tfing-yan-yenn,
a place of great extent and commerce. It is
furrounded by a wall whofe gates are flanked by
ftrong towers, and which extends near three
miles along the river ; but of its breadth we
were prevented from forming any accurate
judgment by the intervening groves, which
appear before, and rife above, the walls. The
fuburbs had a mean appearance ; and the houfes
projected pver the water in the fame infecure
and alarming manner as I have already defcribed;
a mode of building common to all towns, and
leffer places, which are fituated on the banks
of rivers. The great number of junks which
were here at anchor announced the commercial
ftate of the city ; and the fucceffion of timber
yards, all Stored with great quantities of planks,
and wood for every kind of construction, mark
ed a principal article of its trade. Several regi
ments of foldiers were drawn up on the beach,
with a train of artillery : they were accompanied
with triumphal arches, decorated in the fame
pretty and fanciful manner which has been aU
ready repeated of other complimentary erections
of the fame kind.
B b 4 From

( 37*)
From tliis place the river takes its courfe in a
ftrait, undeviating direction for three miles*
between a very fertile and highly cultivated
country, in which rice fields appeared to
abound. The mountains, which fo lately rofe
on the banks, feemed now to have retired, (as it
were, into the diflance, and ranged along the
horizon. In this afternoon a very ferious accident hap
pened which might have produced the moft fatal
confequenees ; it was no lefs than a fire in one
of the inferior junks ; and if great exertions had
not been made, the veffel would have been very
foon confumed. It was fuppofed to have been
odcafioned by a Spark falling unobferyed from
a tobacco pipe, which, trifling as it was, threa*
tened the junk with irreflftible conflagration.
The whole fleet experienced the gpod effects
of the rich and fertile country which we now
entered, by the improvement that was expe
rienced in every article of our daily fupplies.
We this day received a large quantity of excel
lent provifions, with a jar of a very pleafant
liquor, which is extracted from the fugar cane,
and refembles in flavour the rum Shrub, fo well
known in our own country.
The ruins of a pagoda,, and fome of thofe
fepulchres which I have already mentioned,
gave a picturefque appearance to the fpot where they

( 373 )
they had been erected, and were the concluding * 793-
objects of this day's voyage. December.
The weather warm and pleafant, and the Tuefday 17.
country in a fine ftate of cultivation ; while the
river increafed in breadth, and admitted junks
of a larger flze than we had yet feen.
At eleven o'clock this morning we paffed the
large village of Ouzchouaa, with a crowd of
manufactories in its neighbourhood ; whether
they were in the porcelain or iron fervice, I
could not difcover ; but the fmoke of their fur
naces told us that fire was a principal operator
in them.
As we proceeded, the country increafed in
beauty on both fides of the river, and foon bef
came a continued chain of pretty villages, fruit
ful fields, and handfome houfes.
In the afternoon the provision junks ftill im
proved in their cargoes, and brought us an
abundant fupply of excellent provifions and
fruits, with a quantity of Samptchoo, a liquor
which has been already mentioned.
At eight o'clock in the evening the 'fleet an
chored before a very large and commercial city,
called Sangs-wee-yenno, when the Ambaffador
.was faluted with an amazing difcharge of artil
lery from all quarters of it. This mark of re
fpect was accompanied by every other demon-
'ftration of regard that could be Shewn on the
B b 3 occafion j

( 374 )
1793- occafion: triumphal arches appeared with alt
Dumber, their gaudy decorations ; temporary pagodas
were erected to heighten the artificial feenery ;
and a platform, fuch as has been already de
fcribed in former parts of our voyage, was pre
pared to accommodate his Excellency, if it
Should be his wifh to vifit the grand mandarin.
To thefe circumftances may be added all that
illumination could do, in a country where that
fpecies of fplendor is fo well understood and in
fuch continual practice : fo that fome notion
, may be formed of the manner in which the fleet
was received by this city.
* wednef- In the courfe of this morning; we paffed feve-
day 18, to- -T
ral very large and commercial towns ; and, if
any judgment could be formed from the uncea-
, Sing difcharge of artillery, it may be fuppofed
that a chain of forts lined the fhore. If we are
justified alfo in drawing a conclusion from the
numbers of people on the banks of the river,
and in veffels on the water, we might believe
that, from the time we failed, which was at fo
early an hour as two o'clock, the fleet was -
pafling for upwards of two hours through the
middle of an immenfe city, which had pPured
forth all its inhabitants to catch fuch an imper-
fed view of us, as the early part of the morning
would allow. ' At

( 37$ )
At the dawn of day, we came to the city of 1793«
Tayn-tfyn-tau, a place of great importance and December.
iminenfe trade. Several thoufand foldiers were
drawn up along the beach, with a proportionate
train of artillery, which thundered out a falute
as we paffed.
This city^ or, perhaps, to fpeak more cor
rectly, the fuburbs of it, are built on each fide *
of the river; which, for many miles, was co
vered with junks laden with merchandife, or
preparing to receive it ; and fome of them were
of very large dimenfions.
We continued failing before, or rather
through this place, till feven o'clock, and, from
the rate of our paffage, I have no doubt but it
is eight miles in length : of its breadth, no
judgment could be formed on board the fleet ;
but, from the general appearance of the city,
and the houfes of the refident merchants, with
other commercial circumftances, its trade muft
be immenfe, and its opulence in proportion : it
appeared, indeed, to be inferior only to the ci
ties of Pekin arid Canton.
The river continued to be covered with a
crowd of junks ; fo that it was with fome diffi
culty the fleet proceeded on its voyage, which
at length approached its termination ; for, about
noon, it came, to anchor within a mile of the
B b 4 city

( 376 )
1793- chy of Canton, and but two miles diftant from
December, the Englifh factory.
In confequence of an exprefs difpatched by
the conducting mandarin to Canton, to notify
the arrival of the Ambaffador, feveral manda
rins, in the-different departments of government,
came to vifit his Excellency. They were foon
followed by the Britifh commiflioners, the Com
pany's fupercargoes, and Colonel Benfon, a
very welcome vifitor, for he not only brought
the public dispatches for Lord Macartney, but
a large packet of private letters from England,
and all the news-^papers which had arrived by
the laft fhips from Europe.
Orders were iffued by the. Ambaffador for
the whole fuite to difembark on the following
day.
Thurfdayin' The embaffy was removed into larger junks,
which had been previpufly fitted up to go down
the river. i
In pafling down this Spacious river it is
impoffible to defcribe the magnificence of its
navigation ; for we faw, without exaggeration,
feveral thoufands of trading junks ; nor were'
the veffels which were crowded with people to
fee us pafs inferior in number ; while the banks
on either flde were covered with houfes, built ,
very much in the Style of European architec
ture. 3 Thei?

( 377 )
There are alfo a fucceffion of forts well fup- r793«
plied with men and artillery ; and their refpec- December,
five garrifons were drawn out in military array
on the beach before them, with their colours,
mufic, and all the enfigns of war. Thefe forts
faluted the fleet by a fucceffive difcharge of ar
tillery, and, indeed, the air refounded for near
an hour with the repeated firing of great guns
frorri every quarter.
There were alfo feveral thoufand foldiers in
military junks, who added the compliment of
their mufquetry. It was a very large army both
on land and water, and the whole of them funk
down on their knees, as a manoeuvre of mili
tary refpect, till the Ambaffador had paffed.
At one o'clock we arrived oppofite the Eng-
lifh and Dutch factories ; when both of them
faluted his Excellency with a difcharge of artil
lery, and inftantly hoifted the ftandards of their
respective nations.
' Here we faw a great number of boats, con
taining all kinds of provifions, fruits, and mer
chandize, for fale. They rowed backwards and
forwards, announcing, at the fame time, their
various commodities with very violent vocife
ration, as is feen and heard among the owners
of provision -wherries on the Thames.
It appeared very lingular to us, that moft pf
the boats which we had feen for feveral days, were.

( 37» >
»793- were rowed and fleered by women. It is not,
Oecember. indeed, by any means, uncPmmon to fee a wo
man, with a child tied by a linen bandage to
her back, and another fuckling at her breaft,
while She is employed in handling the oar, or
guiding the helm. I have alfo continually ob
ferved women On Shore engaged in the moft la
borious employments, with an infant fattened
to flieir breaft. Such unpleafing, and it may
be added to the feeling mind, fuch an affecting
Spectacle, is never feen in any -of thofe parts of
Tartary through which the embaffy paffed ; for
the women there, as well as in the northern
provinces of China, have their feet crippled
from their infancy, fo that they can never fub-
mit to fuch fatiguing occupations. I was per
mitted to take the meafure of a lady's foot, who
was twenty years of age, which meafured no
more in length than five inches and an half.
Of this compreffion of the feet, it may, indeed,
be faid to be a partial practice.
Lord Macartney, with the whole fuite, went
afhore, and took poffeffion of the refidence
which the Eaft India Company's fupercargoes
had provided for the ufe of the embaffy, during
its flay at Canton. This temporary habitation
was far fuperior, in point of accommodation, to
any we had feen in our long journey through
this country : nor was it among the leaft agree able

( 379 )
able circumftances of our prefent fituation, that £™^,
we faw, once again, a domeflic arrangement D««wW-
which partook of the habitual comforts of our
native foil.

CHAP.

»;;?;.-" ; (. 380 )¦

CHAP. XXV.
Some account of Canton ; proceed from thence tff
Wampoa, and Macao ; brief account of them. — •
Circumftances relative to the refidence of the embaffjt
at the latter place. — Sail for England.
J"93- \_j ANTON, or Quanton, is fituated on the
December, fcuth fide of the river, to which it gives a name,
Saturday z z.
and lies in about one hundred and twelve de-
. grees eaft longitude, and twenty-four degrees
fouth latitude. It is fuirounded by a wall, near
thirty feet in height, built of ftone, and de
fended in every direction, particularly towards
the river, by very ftrong forts, mounted with
heavy artillery, and garrifoned with numerous.
troops. It is impoffible, however, to form an
accurate judgment of its extent, as it is built
on a plain ; the furrounding country being one
continued level, except towards the fouth, where
Strangers are never permitted to go.
The flreets of the city are, in general, from
fifteen to twenty feet in breadth, and paved
with broad ftones. The houfes feldom rife
above one ftory, and are built of wood and
brick. The fhops have their fronts fancifully
ornamented

( 3^ )
ornamented with a balcony, that rifes from 1793.
the pent-houfe roof over the door, and is D^mb^.
adorned with gilding and colours.
The drefs of the inhabitants does not differ
from thofe which have been already defcribed.
It is, however, a very remarkable circumftance*
that notwithstanding this city is fo much to the
fouthward of Pekin* the winter Should be fo
fevere as to induce the inhabitants to wear furs :
and that fuch cloathing is not altogether confl
dered as a matter of luxury, or confined to the
higher order of the people, is evident from the
great number of furriers' Shops, and* as it ap
peared, flocked with large quantities of fur
cloathing. It conflfled of the fkin of leopards*
foxes, bears, and Sheep. The Skins were well
drefled, made up in the form of jackets, and are
worn with the hairy fide towards the Skin.
The Viceroy's palace at Canton, in form,
dimensions, and ornaments, is the counterpart
of that which the Ambaffador occupied at Pe
kin : any defcription of it would, therefore, be
fuperfluous. Of public buildings there are none,
unlefs triumphal arches and gateways, which
are very numerous, may be included under that
denomination. - The population of this city is eftimated at a
million of inhabitants : and its large and extenfive
fuburbs may, without exaggeration, be faid to
contain

( 3«2 )
contain half that number. Indeed, if the per
fons are included, who navigate, and live on
board, the very numerous junks and fampahs,
or fifhing boats, with which the Canton river
is covered, this calculation will be considerably
exceeded. This river, as it approaches the city, is equal
in breadth to the Thames in its wideft part. It
abounds alfo in various kinds of fine fifh ; but
the water is very unwholefome for Strangers, till
it has Stood long enough for a very confiderable
fediment to fubfide : the people, however, who
live in the junks, ufe it, as I am informed, for
every purpofe and without any inconvenience,
that I could learn.
When we were on the river that flows by
Tong-tchew, an experiment was made respect
ing the water ; and, in a Single gallon of it,
there remained, on Straining it, half a pint of
yellow fand ; yet in this ftate the people of the
country univerfafly ufe it, and have no idea of
purifying it by filtration. . We had no oppor
tunity of becoming acquainted with the Com
mon maladies of the people who live on the
banks of that river — but water, fo charged as
this appears to be, muft have fome prejudicial
effect on the conflitutions of thofe who conti
nually ufe it. Though

( 3*3 )
Though, this is the only port in the empire
of China where Europeans are fuffered to
trade, all commercial bufinefs is tranfadted in
the fuburbs, which are about a mile from the
•city., They are very extenfive, and without
any pretentions to grandeur or elegance. The
ftreets are, in general, very narrow, and al
ways thronged with people. The houfes are of
wood, conftfting only of a ground floor and
upper ftory : they all contain Shops, and are
fitted up within after the Englifh manner, to
which the inhabitants appear to have a decided
partiality. It was not uncommon to fee their
names written on the Signs, in Englifh cha
racters, and adapted to Englifh orthography.
The porcelain warehoufes which I faw here, are
faid, and I believe with great truth, to exceed
any fimilar repositories in the world, for extent,
grandeur, and ,ftock in trade. The warehoufes
of the tea merchants are alfo filled with exten
five ranges of chefts, which contain an article
now become almoft a neceffary of life in our
country, and of increasing ufe in every other
part of Europe.
The factories of the feveral European com
panies who trade to this part of the eaftern
world, are formed in the flyle of that quarter
of the globe to which they belong. The build
ings are constructed of ftone and brick, on a
very

( 3*4 )
^93* very fubflanfial plan ; but they fo far conform*
toeeember. to the architectural deflgns of the country*-
which I believe to be the belt, that they inclofe
large courts, where there are apartments for the
fupercargoes and writers, as well as for the cap
tains and mates of Ships, during the time they
are preparing their cargoes.
There is a range of thefe factories along the
river, but without the leaft communication with
each other ; and their general diftinction is the
flag, or Standard of their refpective countries*
which are feen flying during the day on feme:
conspicuous part of each factory.
The feveral nations whofe trading companies
have factories here, are England, Holland,
France, Sweden, Denmark, Portugal, Spain,
and America. But the Englifh, both from the
extent of their buildings, and the number of
• their Ships, appear to poffefs a greater Share of
the China trade, than the united commerce of
'the reft of Europe.
The refidence of Lord Macartney was on
the oppofite fide of the river ; and, as a mere
place of temporary accommodation, was con
trived with great judgment, and arranged with
uncommon attention to the convenience of the
upper order of the embafly : the reft of the
flute occupied fome of the company's , ftore-
i rooms,

( 385 )
rooms, which were fitted up in a very neat and
commodious manner for the occafion.
For feveral days after his Excellency's arri
val at this place, he was entertained during
dinner by a Chinefe play, on a ftage erected
before the windows of his apartment ; and with
extraordinary feats of legerdemain, which al
ways accompany the public entertainments of
this country.
The Viceroy of Canton paid the BritiSh Am
baffador only one vifit during his Slay here,
which was followed by large prefents of fugar-
candy, porcelain, and nankeen* to-the whole
retinue of the embaffy.
The gentlemen of the Britifh factory enter
tained Lord Macartney and the whole .fuite
with great elegance and hofpitality, on Chrift-
mas day, 1793, and the firft day of January,
1794. They alfo made a requisition to engage
the band of mufic that had accompanied the em
baffy, from whofe fervice it was accordingly dif
eharged, and immediately entered into that of the
Englifh factory ; a very valuable acquisition in
a country and fituation, where fo little exterior
amufement of any kind is to be obtained.
Nor can I, in this place, where I am to take
leave of Canton, avoid expreffing a regret, that
the inhabitants of it are very different in point
of honefty, from the people of every other part
C c of

( 3^ )
of China where we had been ; at leaft, as' faf
as my means of obfervation would enable me'
to judge. Nor is it with lefs concern that I
attribute this local character, which is knavifh
in the extreme* to their being the inhabitants
of the only place where there is any communi
cation with the natives of other countries.
On the eighth of January, 1794, Lord Ma
cartney fet off with his whole retinue in boats,
for the Lion man of war, then lying at Wam-
poa. At the fame time Mr. Maxwell and Mr.
Barrow, with' certain attendants, were ordered
to proceed to Macao,- to make preparations for
the reception of his Excellency at that place.
They went in j unks by ano ther river, which
flows from Canton to Macao, and pafling by
that place, empties itfelf into the fea.
The country on each fide of the river, be
tween Canton and Wampoa, is rich, fertile,
and full of variety: — feveral lofty pagodas
fucceffively enlivened tlie diftant parts of the
progreffive profpedts,
Wampoa is the place where all Ships cometo
an anchor, being univerfal-ly prohibited to pro
ceed further up the river.
It is a very beautiful and populous village, at
the diftance of about eighteen miles from Can
ton. The houfes are built of a lead-coloured
kick, with numbers of fipe trees interfperfed

among

( 387 )
among them. The adjacent country is a con
tinued level; but the oppofite fide of the river,
which is not fo wide here as at Canton, wears
a different and more irregular appearance. At
no great diflance from this place there is a
fand-bank or bar, which cannot be paffed by
large veffels but at high water. There are alfo
two necks of land that project on either flde of
the river, which form the paffage called the
Bocca Tygris. Here are Strong forts on each
flde with batteries and troops ; and as the Lion
paffed She received a falute of three guns from
each of them.
Previous to the departure of Lord Macartney
Frorri Wampoa, he received the farewel vifit of
the attendant mandarin Van-Tadge-In. Of
this distinguished perfonage and amiable man,
it is impoffible to ufe expreffions beyond the
merit he difplayed in his care of, and. attention
to, every perfon attached to the Britifh embafly.
He was appointed by the Emperor of China to
attend and conduct it ; and, from the time we
landed on the Shore of the Yellow fea, to our
arrival at Wampoa, he never quitted it for a
moment. In all this long and various journey,
he never neglected for an inflant the duties of
his office, nor omitted any opportunity of exe
cuting them in a manner the moft agreeable to
thofe who were entrusted toi his care and di-
'Ccz rection :

( 388 }
i'edtion : it was a talk of no common trouble
and difficulty ; but he was not feen on any
occafion or at any time to fpare himfelf in per
forming it. He Was amiable in his manners,
affable in" his demeanor, ready in his com
munication, active in his arrangements, and fo-
licitous in the extreme not only to procure all
poffible accommodations, but to fuit them, as -
far as the circumftances of the country would
allow, to European habits and cuftom's. He
was a mandarin of the firft clafs, and held a
very high, if not the higheft, rank in the army
of China : but neither fituation or dignity had
elevated his mirid above the difcharge of duties,
whatever they might be, or the fuggeftions of
kindnefs, to whatever objects it might be di
rected. Nor was this all : in the true fpirit of
benevolence, he acquired a friendship for thofe
in whofe fervice it had been fo continually em
ployed ; and his laft adieu to the Ambaffador
and the fuite was accompanied with the tears
of affection.
The mandarin Van-Tadge-In, we well know,
is high in the confidence of his fovereign ; and,
from his virtues, there can be little doubt that
he bears a very distinguished character in the
fphere of private life, as well as of public duty.
But though the testimony of refpect which is
recorded on this page cannot add to his fame, it

< 389 )
it will prove, at leaft, a flncere admiration of 1794.
fuperior merit, and- a grateful fenfe of conde- january.
feending favour in the writer of it. -
The Canton river is fo well known, that it
would be not only fup£rfluous, but impertinent
in me, to add another defcription to the mapy
which have already been given of it.
^ Lord Macartney landed at Macao, and was Wednef-
received to dinner at the houfe of the Gover- ay '"'"
nor. In the afternoon he went to the refidence
of Mr.'Drumihond, pne of the fupercargoes of
the Eaft India Company, where his Lordlhip
refided during his flay at this place. Here the
gentlemen of the feveral European factories
have their feparate houfes, as they are not fuf
fered to remain at Canton beyond the time ne
ceffary to prepare cargoes for the fhips of their
refpedtive nations.
Macao is fituated in no degrees of eaft
longitude, and about a a degrees of fouth lati
tude. It is a place of fome extent, and built
on a rock. The houfes are of ftone, and con
structed on the plan of European architecture,
but without exterior elegance : the ftreets are
very narrow and irregular, as they take the
unequal forface of the fpot on which they are
erected. The public buildings conflft of
churches, convents, and the fenate-houfe,
which terminates the only fpacious and level
C c 3 ftreet

( 39° )
ftreet in the town. The Governor's houfe is
fituated on the beach oppofite the landing
place, and commands a beautiful profpedt,. but
is not remarkable for external elegance or in
terior accommodation. Contiguous to it is the
Englifh factory, a plain, commodious building ;
the other factories are in the fame flyle, and all
of them fuiTOunded with gardens. The upper
parts of Macao command very extenfive views
of the fea and adjacent country. The harbour
is very commodious, • and fheltered from the
wipds, but will not admit Ships of great burden,
The town is defended, in all directions, by
Strong forts mounted with heavy cannon, and
garrifoned with Portuguefe troops. The fea
runs into the harbour, through a narrow chan
nel between the Ladrone iflands and the town,
and forms a fine bay behind it, extending at
leaft four miles, when it is bounded by a neck
of lant that feparates it from a large river.
Here the Chinefe have a fort that looks towards
the Portuguefe territory, and it is the principal,
duty of the garrifon to prevent Strangers from
palling the limits of it. No one is fuffered to
walk on the neck of land, nor is any boat per
mitted to approach that ride of the Shore.
There is a fmall, pretty ifland; in the middle
pf (he bay, which contains the habitation of a
man-

{ 39* ) '
mandarin, who frequently refides there, but fel
dom vifits the town.
Macao is generally fuppofed to be fituated on
an ifland ; but the fact is otherwife ; nor is
there any natural barrier which feparates it
from the Chinefe territory. The whole extent
of the Portuguefe poffeffions does not exceed
four miles in length, and one mile and an half
in breadth : the limits of which are accurately
determined, and eannot be paffed without dan-f

o'er.

This place -is divided in its jurisdiction be
tween the Portuguefe and Chinefe over their
refpective people. The latter, however, exact
very heavy duties on all goods landed, or Ship
ped, on account of the European factories.
There is a Governor, and a Judge, appointed
by the court of Lifbon, who have an arbitrary
power vefted in them, to the extent of their
jurifdidtion. There is alfo a Portuguefe
cuftom-houfe and quay, on the fouth flde of
the town, where all fhips coming into the bay
are obliged to pay a duty. There are not more
than two hundred and fifty European foldiers
for the defence of the place, who are well
cloathed, and whofe pay is very much advanced
on their arrival there.
The refidence of Lord Macartney was one of
the moft beautiful fpots that the imagination
C c 4 * can

( 39a )
can conceive. It was fmall, but built in the
Englifh manner, and furrounded with pleafure
grounds of confiderable extent, beautifully dif
pofed and planted for profpedt and for Shade.
The view which it commands combines a moft
delightful picture of river and fea, of cultivated
ifland, and mountainous Shore.
The Chinefe who refide in this place, retain
their own cuftoms with a rigid preference ; nor -;
has the long intercourfe they have here had
with Europeans of different nations, induced
them to deviate in the leaft article from the
long-eftablifhed, and, as it appears, invariable
ufages of their country.
Macao was originally fortified by a wall, a
great part of which ftill remains, to the east
ward of the town, where it paffes between two
hills, and connects itfelf with a fort, and a con
vent, that appear on their fummits.
Without this wall is the common burying- ,
ground of the place, where I faw the memorials
of feveral of my countrymen, whofe afhes re-
pofe at fuch a diftance from their friends and
native land. This cemetery, however, is ex-
clpflvely occupied by the Chinefe, and fuch
Europeans who are not of the Roman Catho
lic perflation ; as the papifls have particular
places of interment for thofe who depart this
fife in the faith of their church. ' At

( 393 )
At this place Mr. Plumb quitted the fervice 1794-
of the embafly. He was very amiable and Ma^iu
obliging in his conduct to every one engaged
in the fame fervice with himfelf. He was offer
ed a fuitable provision, if he would return to
England ; but, though he appeared to part from
his European friends with a fenfible regret, he
very naturally preferred to return to the bofom
of his family and friends, from whom he had
been fo long feparated, and to pafs the re
mainder of his days in the country that gave
him birth.
Lord Macartney remained at Macao till the
eighth day of March, 1794, when his LordShip,
and the whole retinue, embarked from the Go
vernor's houfe. The troops were all drawn
out on the beach on the occafion, with fix brafs
field-pieces, from which they fired a falute of
nineteen guns, which was anfwered by feveral
forts. The Lion received Lord Macartney with a
falute of fifteen guns, and every other mark of
refpect; as did alfo the King Charles, from
Spain, and the Bon Jefus, from Portugal, with
three country Ships belonging to the Englifh ,
Eaft India Company.
In the afternoon the fleet of homeward- Sunday i«,
bound Eaft Indiamen anchored off Macao
roads, to proceed under convoy of the Lion to
England,

( 394 )
1794- England, when they, feverally, faluted the
j^X Commodore with nineteen guns as they fuccef
fively came to anchor. The companions of
our outward-bound voyage, the Jackall and
Clarence brigs, as the embaffy was concluded,
were fold ; the former to Capt. Proctor, in the
marine fervice of the Eaft India Company,
while the latter found a purchafer at Macao.
-Ifcraky 17. Early this morning the Signal was made for
the fleet to weigh ; and at feven the Lion got
under fail, in company with the following
Ships :
Lord Thurlow, Lord Walfingham,
Glatton, Triton,
Abergavenny, Henry Bundas,
Exeter, Ceres,
Hindoftan, Ofterley, and
Royal Charlotte, The Jackall, the Com-
Hawke, pany's marine brig.
Warley,
To thefe homeward-bound English Ships may
be added, The King Charles, Spaniard;
Bon Jefus, Portuguefe ;
General Washington, American.
At eleven the fignal was made to form the'
order of failing, and the whole fleet flood to
fea.
No

( 395 )
No occurrence happened of any kind worth 1794.
relating, till three o'clock in the afternoon of ""X^i '
this day, when the Henry Dundas made the Turfd?:r *•
Signal for feeing fix Strange fail, eaft-fouth-eaft.
A fail to the north-eaft proved to be the Nancy"
grab, of Bengal. At four, the Hindoftan and
Exeter received a fignal to chafe. At five,
fhewed our colours to a brig and feveral prows.
The brig was commanded by a Moorish cap
tain, and well armed: the prows were alfo
mounted with cannon, as one of them returned,
with a Single Shot, the fire of the Englifh Ships,
to bring them to. Thefe prows had upwards
of fifty Malays in each veffel, and frequently
do a great deal of mifchief on the coaft of Su-
matra, where we now were, as well as in other
parts of thefe feas. <
Saw two Strange fail, in confequence of Friday n,
which all the guns were Shotted, artd the Ship
was cleared for action. They" were, however,
foon difcovered to be Englifh ; and inflead of
the Sharp returns of enemies, we interchanged
the falutes of friendship.
We anchored at Angara Point ; where we Monday 14,
were employed in wooding and watering till
Saturday the nineteenth ; when the whole fleet
fet fail, and continued its courfe for England, Tuefday 15,
except the Jackall brig, which now feparated
from ps. Nothing

( 39* )
Nothing occurred between Angara Point and
Saint Helena, except feveral very heavy gales
of wind, particularly in doubling the Cape of
Good' Hope.
We this day anchored at Saint Helena. His
Majefty's Ships the Sampfon of fixty-four guns,
Capt. Montague, and the Argo, Captt Clarke,
of forty-four, &c. had arrived that morning,
June. Lord Macartney and his retinue went on
(dayUi9". fhore, where they remained till the firft day of
Tuefday i. July, when they returned on board, and the
fleet fef fail for England, with the addition of
the following Ships which we found at anchor
here on our arrival : (the two men of wrar ex*
cepted) The Sampfon, 64 guns,
The Argo, 44 ditto,
And the following Eaft-Indiamen ;
General Coote,
Fitzwilliam, Belvidere,
Fort-William,
Marquis of Lanfdown, with
The South Sea Whaler, Lucas of London.
Thurf. We parted company with the General Wafh
ington, who faluted the Commodore with nine
guns, which were returned in the ufual man
ner. This

( 397 )
This morning the Sampfon fired a gun, and 1794.
made the fignal for a fleet. After fome , hours jXT^
of fuSpenfe, and having made every preparation Mond!iy ***
for an engagement, it proved the outward-
bound fleet of Eaft-Indiamen, under convoy of
his Majefty's fhip Afiiftance, Capt. Brunton ;
which now parted company with his convoy,
and joined our fleet.
Nothing occurred during; the remainder of September.
0 ° '. Tuefday 3.
our paffage, that would juftify my adding a
line to this page, till the third of September,
when at three A. M. we were ferioufly alarmed
with running foul Of a fleet off Portland
Roads; which was foon difcovered to be the
grand fleet, under the command of Earl Howe,
coming up the Channel. This Strange accident
was attended, however, with no other inconve
nience than the damage which was received by
the Royal Charlotte, Triton, and Ofterley In-
diamen. At five o'clock P. M. we anchored fafe, after
a long and curious voyage, at Spithead ; and
/oon felt the inexpreffible fatisfaction of once
more treading the terra firma of our native
country.

SUPPLE-

( 393 )

SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER,
Brief account of the paffage from Hoang-tchew to
Chufan, by Captain Mackintofh, &c. — Various
cuftoms of the Chinefe, &c. — Mifcellaneous arti
cles, &fc. I
¦ \Jf this Short account of the paffage of Ho-
ang-tchew to Chufan, by Captain Mackintosh*
and the gentlemen who feparated from the em
baffy at the former place, to join the Ships at
the latter, I Speak on the authority of others ;
and, therefore, give it a place among the mif*
cellaneous matter which I could not introduce
elfewhere, without breaking the chain of nar
ration which the nature of the work appears
to require.
The river which took this detachment of the
fuite to Chufan, differed very little, as I was
informed, in exterior appearance from thofe
that have been already defcribed. A fucceflion
of mountains and rocks, and cultivated plains,
formed the natural feenery of its banks, while
the pagoda and the palace, the village and the
city, were the artificial objects that enlivened or

(.399 )
or ennobled the profpedt which the Stream of
fered to the voyagers on it.
But this river met with interruptions that we
never experienced in thofe on which we paSfed ;
and its courfe was occasionally broken by cata
racts of a deep fall and formidable appearance.
Such circumftances would neceffarily impede
the navigation of the rivers where they prefent
themfelves, if the unparalleled induflry, perfe-
Verance, and I may furely add, the ingenuity
of the Chinefe, had not furmounted this obsta
cle ; and in a manner, which it requires fome
confidence in thofe who informed me of it, to*
relate. To accelerate the paffage of veffels at thofe
places where the difference of levels forbids any
further progrefs on the furface of the water, the
powers of median ifm are applied to let
the veffel down into a lower Stream, or lift
it up into an higher one, in the following man
ner. In the firft place, two ftrong ftentions
are fixed in the center of the river, from which
two large beams are made to project in a ftate
of fufpenflon over the water : to thefe, Strong
blocks are attached, with ropes of fufficient
ftrength ; fo that when a junk arrives at the
place, the is well fecured afore and aft, to pre-
ferve an equilibrium ; when the perfons, who
are always ftationed at thefe places for the pur
pofe,

V ( 4°6 )
¦pole, and are accuftomed to the bufinefs, hoift
the junk, with its paffengers and cargo, from
one part of the river into the other, over
every intermediate obstruction. So certain is
this extraordinary operation, that it occupies
but a few minutes in its execution, ,and is not'
confldered by thofe who navigate thefe rivers
as attended with greater danger, or more liable
to accident, than many other frequent contin
gencies which are infeparable from the voyages
on them.
Captain Mackintofh and his party were treat
ed by the mandarins of the different cities and
towns through which they paffed, with a de
gree of attention and hospitality equal to that
which the embafly itfelf received. They were
ten days in their paffage from Hoang-tchew to
Chufan. I Shall now proceed to give fome detached
accounts of the manners and cufloms of the
Chinefe, as they were offered to my obfervation.
To give an accurate defcription of the mar
riage ceremony in China, is to do little more
.._¦-'"" than to reply to the Abbe Grofier, whofe ac
count of the Chinefe nuptials, as well as of
many other of their culiorqs, is altogether er
roneous. The Abbe fays, " On the day ap
pointed for the ceremony, the bride is firft pla
ced in an inclofed chair, or palankin, when all
3 the

( 4°i }
the articles that compofe her portion are borne
before and behind her by different perfons of
both fexes, while others Surround the ladyher-
felf, carrying flambeaux, even in the middle of
the day." The marriage ceremony which I
faw at Macao, had little in common with this
defcription, but the palankin. The bride, feated
in that machine, was preceded by mufic, and
enfigns of various colours were borne by men
both before and in the rear of the proceffion,
which confifted principally of the relatives of
the bride and bridegroom, who efeort her to
the houfe of her hufband, where a feaft is pre
pared, and the day is paffed in mirth and fefti-
vity. Nor is the evening concluded with thofe
abfurd ceremonies with which the Abbe Gro-
fier, and other authors, have ridiculoufly en
cumbered the confummation of a Chinefe
wedding. The idea which he and others have propa
gated of the rigid confinement of the Chinefe
women, is equally void of truth. In different
parts of that extenfive country different Cuf-
toms may prevail ; and the power of hufbands
over their wives may be fuch as to render them
matters of their liberty, which they may exer
cife with feverity, if circumftances fhould at
any time fuggeft the neceffify of fuch a mea
fure, or caprice fancy it ; but I do not hefitate
D d to

( 4°2 )
to aflert, that women* in general, have a rea
fonable liberty in China ; and that there is the
fame, communication and focial intercourfe with
Women, which, in Europe, is confldered as a
predominant charm_of focial life.
The Abbe has alfo afferted, with equal igno
rance of the country whofe hiftorian he pretends
to be, that mafters are deflrous* of promoting
marriage among their flaves, in order to increafe
the number of them, as the children "are born
to inherit the lot of their parents. This is a
mere fable, as there are no fuch clafs of people
as flaves in the Chinefe empire. They cannot
import flaves in their own veffels, which are
never employed but in their domeflic com
merce ; and he muft be afflicted with the moft
ctedulous ignorance, who believes that they
import them in foreign bottoms. If, therefore,
there are any flaves in China, they muft be na
tives of the country ; and among them, it is
well known, that there is no clafs of people
who are in that degrading fituation.
Cerrain claffes of criminals are punifhed with
fervitude for a ftated period, or for life, ac
cording to tile nature of their offences ; and
they are employed in the more laborious parts
of public works. But if this is flavery, the un
happy convicts" who heave ballaft op the
Thames, are flaves. There is a cuftom, indeed, in

( 4^3 )
in China, respecting this clafs of criminals, that
does not prevail in England, which is, their
being hired for any fervice they are capable of
performing : and this frequently happens, as
thefe convicts maybe had at a cheaper rate than
ordinary labourers. This regulation, however,
has one good effect, that it exonerates govern
ment from the expenfe of maintaining fuch un
happy perfons without leffening the rigor or
dilgrace of the punishment. But I re-affert
that Slavery, by which I mean the power which
one man obtains over another, by purchafe, or
inheritance, as in our Weft India iflands, is
not known in China. Indeed, fome of the Chi
nefe in the interior parts of the country were,
with difficulty, made to comprehend the nature
of fuch a character as a flave ; and wben I il
lustrated the matter, by explaining the fitua
tion of a negro boy, called Benjamin, whom
Sir George Staunton had purchafed at Batavia,
they expreffed the Strongest marks of difguft
and abhorrence. The conversation to which
I allude took place at Jehol, in Tartary ; but
at Canton, where the communication with Eu
ropeans gives the merchants a knowledge of
what is pafling in our quarter of the globe, poor
Benjamin was the caufe of fome obfervations
on his condition, that aftonifhed me when I
heard, and will> I believe, furprife the reader
D d 2 when

( 4©4 )
> when he perufes them. The boy being in a
Shop with me in the fuburbs of Canton, fome
people who had never before feen a black, were
, very curjous in making inquiries concerning
him ; when the merchant, to whom the ware-
houfe belonged, expreffed his furprife, in broken
English, that the Britifh nation Should fuffer a
traffic fo difgraceful to that humanity which
they were fo ready to profefs : and on my in
forming him that our parliament intended to
abolifhit, he furprifed me with the following
• extraordinary anSwer, wnich I giVe in his own
wrords : — ¦" Aye, aye, black- man, in Englifh
" country, have got one firft chop, good man-
" darin Willforce, that have done much good
v *' for allau blackie man, much long time : allau
" man makie ohin, chin, hee, becaufe he have
" got more firft chop fink, than much Englifh
" merchantmen; becaufe he merchant-man
" tinkee for catch money, no tinkee for poor
" blackie man : Jofh, no like fo fafhion."
The meaning of thefe expreffions is as follows :
4C Aye, in England, the black men have got
" an advocate and friend, (Mr. Wilbertbree)
li who has, for a confiderable time, been doing
" them fervice ; and all good people, as well
" as the blacks, adore the character of a gen-
" tleman, whole thoughts have been directed
.." to meliorate the condition of_. thofe men ;
" and

( 405.. J
'" and not like our Weft India plariters, or
" merchants, who, for the love of gain, would
" would prolong the mifery of fo large a por-
*,' tion of his fellow-creatures as the African
" flaves. But God does not approve of fuch
" a practice." ,
That fome general kriowledge of the politics
of Europe may be obtained by the mandarins
and merchants in the port of Canton, might be
naturally expected, from their continual com
munication with the natives of almoft every
European country ; and as many of them un
derstand the languages of Europe, they may,
. perhaps, fometimes read the Gazettes that are
published in our quarter of the globe. But
that the queflion of the flave trade, as agitated
in the Britifh Parliament, fhould be known in
the fuburbs of Carlton, may furprife fome of
my readers as it aftonifhed me. Nor will it be
unpleafing to Mr. Wilberforce to be informed,
that, for the active zeal which he difplayed in.
behalf of the nations of Africa, in the fenate of
the firft city of Europe, he received the^eulo-
gium of a Chinefe merchant beneath the walls
of an Afiatic city.
There are frequent feftivals in China,, and
we faw at Macao the principal of them, which
celebrates the beginning of the New-Year. Ac
cording to the Chinefe calendar, it commences
D d 3 on

( 4°^ )
pn the fecond day of our month of February,
and is obferved with great joy and gladnef$
throughout the whole empire, and by an entire
fufpenflon of all bufinefs. Of any religious
ceremonies that ufher in the dawn of the. year,
I cannot fpeak, as all the diftipctions of the
feafon which appeared to us, confifted of feaft-
ing by day, and fireworks by night. This fef
tival is prolonged, by thofe who can afford it,
for feveral days: and they, wL:(e circumftances
confine their joy to one day, take fo much of
it, that they generally feel its effects on the
next. Of the manner in which they keep or obferve
their ordinary holidays, I fhall give the follow
ing account :
In the firft place, they purchafe provifions
according to their fituation and capacity, which
are dreffed, and placed before a fmall idol, fixed
on an altar, with a curtain before it : and fuch
ap altar, in fome form or other, every Chinefe
has in his habitation, whether it be on the land,
or on the water, in an houfe, or a junk. This
repafl, with bread and fruit, and three fmall
cups of wine, fpirits, and vinegar, are* after a
threefold obeifance from the people of the houfe
to the idol, carried to the front of their dwel
ling •. they there kneel and pray, with great
fervour, for feveral minutes ; and, after fre
quently

( 407 J
quenfly beating their heads on the ground, they
rife, and throw the contents of the three cups
to the right and left of them. They then take
a bundle of fmall pieces of gilt paper, which
they fet on fire, and hold over the meat. This
ceremonial is fucceeded by lighting firings of
fmall crackers, which hang from the end of a
cane, and are made to crack over the meat.
The repaft is then placed before the idol or
Jofh, as it is called (a term which means a deity)
and after a repetition of obeifances, they con
clude with a joyous dinner ,.exhilarated by plenty
of fpirits, which are always, boiled in pewter or
copper veffels before they are taken.
On the firft of March it is ufual, according
to ancient cuftom, for dramatic pieces to be
performed on ftages in the principal ftreet of
the different towns throughout the empire, for
the amufement of the poor people, who are not
able to purchafe thofe pleafures.' This benefi
cent act continues for a fucceffion of feveral
days, at the expenfe of the Emperor ; fo that
every riiorning and evening, during this period,
the lower claffes of the fubjects enjoy a favou
rite pleafure without coft, and blefs the hand
that beftows it on them.
Of the knowledge of medicine among the
Chinefe I can fay no more, than that I was wit-
' nets, in one inftance, to a Skilful application of
D d 4 it,

/

.( 408 )
it, in the cafs of John Stewart, a fervant of
Capt. Mackintosh' •" who, on our return from
Jehol, had been feized with the dyfentery,
which increafed fo much on the road, that at
Waunchoyeng, there were no hopes entertained
of his being able to leave that place. Whether
it arofe from the defire of- the patient, or was
fuggefted by any perfon in the fuite, I know
not, but a Chinefe phyfician was called to his
affiftance ; when the man's cafe was explained
to him by .Mr. Plumb, in the prefence of Sir
George Staunton. The phyfician remained a
confiderable time with his patient, and fent him
a medicine, which removed the complaint, and
reftored him to health.
The people are, in general, of an healthy ap
pearance : it is very rare, indeed, to fee perfons
marked with the fmall pox ; and, except in the
fea-ports of Macao and Canton, feveral of the
diforders unfortunately fo frequent in Europe
are not known in China.
The caxee is the only current coin in China :
any other Species of money is abfolutely for
bidden. It is made of a white metal, and is
about the Size of our farthing, with a fmall
fquare hole driven through the middle, for the
purpofe of running them on a firing to be com-
pofed into candareens and maces : but although
the terms candareen and mace are employed to
certify

( 409 )
'certify a certain quantity ofcaxees, -there are no
coins in the country which bear thatfpecific va
lue ; fo that, in fact, they are only imaginary
denominations, like our pounds, &c.
The comparative estimation of the caxee with
BritiSh money cannot be afcertained with any de
gree of accuracy, as it bears no Sterling value even
in that country ; every province having its par
ticular caxee, which is not current in any other.'
In the province of Pekin a Spanifh dollar will
produce, in exchange, from five hundred to five
hundred and eighty caxees, according to the
weight of the dollar, which the Chinefe prove
by a fmall Steel-yard like our's in England,
though they fometimes employ fcales. In the
province of Hoang-tchew the dollar obtains
from feven hundred to feven hundred and fifty
caxees ; in other places it will find a ftill more
various exchange.
I cannot concludethis volume without paying
a tribnte of refpectful veneration to the great and
illuftrious, the wife and beneficent Sovereign of
China; who, in a long reign of near Sixty 'years,
has, according to the general voice of his people,
never ceafed to watch over and increafe their
happinefs and prosperity. Of the manner in
which he administers juftice, and gives protec
tion to the mcaneft of his fubjects, the follow

ing

( 4io )
ing anecdote, which I frequently heard in the
country, is an affecting example :
A-merchant of the city of Nankin had, with
equal induftry and integrity, acquired a con
fiderable fortune, which awakened the rapa
cious fpirit of the Viceroy of that province : on
the pretence, therefore, of its being too rapidly
accumulated, he gave fome intimations of his
deflgn to make a feifure of it. The merchant,
who had a numerous family, hoped to baffle the
oppreffive avarice that menaced him, by di
viding his poffeffions among his fons, and de
pending upon them for fupport.
But the fpirit of injustice, when Strengthened
by power, is not eafily thwarted in its defigns ;
the Viceroy, therefore, fent the young men to
the array, feized on their property, and left the
father to beg his bread. His tears and humble
petitions were fruitlefs ; the tyrannical officer,
this vile vicegerent of a beneficent fovereigp,
difdained to beftow the fmalleft relief on the
man he had reduced to ruin ; fo that, exafpe-:
rated by the oppreflion of the minifter, the mer
chant, at length, determined to throw himfelf
at the feet of the fovereign, to obtain redrefs, or
die in his prefence.
With this deflgn he begged his way to Pe
kin ; and, having Surmounted all the difficulties
of a long and painful journey, he at length
arrived

( 4" )>
arrived at the imperial refidence ; and, having
prepared a petition that contained a faithful
ftatement- of his injuries, he waited with pa
tience in an outer court till the Emperor Should
pafs to attend the council. But the poverty of
his appearance had almoft frustrated his hopes ;
and the attendant mandarins were about to
chaftife his intrusion, -when the attention of the
Emperor was attracted by the buttle which the
poor man's refiftance occafloned : at this mo
ment he held forth a paper, which his Imperial
Majefty ordered to be brought to his palankin ;
and, having perufed its contents, commanded
the petitioner to follow him.
It fo happened, that the Viceroy of Nankin
was attending his annual duty in the council :
the Emperor, therefore, charged him with the
crime ftated in the poor man's petition, and
commanded him to make his defence : but,
confcious of his guilt, and amazed at the unex
pected difcovery, his agitations, his looks, and
his filence, condemned him. The Emperor
then addreffed the affembled council on the
fubject' of the Viceroy's crime, and concluded
his harangue with ordering the head of his
tyrannical officer td be inftantly brought him
on the point of a fabre. The command was
obeyed ; and while the poor old man was won
dering on his knees at the extraordinary event of

( fa y-
of the moment, the Emperor addreffed him in
the following manner : Look, faid he, on the
awful and bleedirig example before you, and as
I now appoint you his fucceffor, and name you
Viceroy of the province of Nankin, let his fate
inftruct you to fulfil the duties of your high and
important office with juftice and moderation.

APPRN-

APPENDIX

CONTAINING AN

ACCOUNT op the TRANSACTIONS

OF THE

£ Z U A D R O N
DVUINC THE ABSENCE OF THB
EMBASSY,
Till their Return on Board his Majefty's Ship, the Lhn,
at Wampoa.

APPENDIX,

Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship the Lion, in the
Yellow Sea.

M<

.ODERATE and cloudy. A.M. killed a i793.
bullock, weight 34ilbs. got all the baggage ^f^it.
into the junks, with foldiers, mechanics, fer- Mond3y *•
vants, botanifts, &c. At half paft eight the
Ambaffador went on board the brigantine
Clarence, manned the fhip, and faluted him
with 1 9 guns and three cheers, as did the
Hindoftan. v
Ditto weather. Adam Bradffiaw, a light dra- Tuefday ..
goon, departed this life, and his body com
mitted to the deep. A. M. wafhed the
lower and orlop decks, , fumigated the fhip
with devils, wafhed the fides and beams with
vinegar.
Light breezes and cloudy. People employed v/ednef-
occafionally. A. M. killed a bullock, weight
2 8 albs, fail-makers repairing main-top-fail.
i Ditto

Remarks on Board his Majefly s Ship Lion.
1753. Ditto weather. At 9 P. M. the Clarence an-
VA^J"/ chored, and brought the Jackall's men on
TfcutUay 8- board. At half-paft four weighed and made
fail, founded in 7 and 9 fathoms water. At
noon killed a bullock, weight 3o:lbs. Hin
doftan and Clarence in company.
Friday 9. Moderate and cjoudy. P. M. ferved tobacco,
founded from 15 to 1 7 fathoms water, ob
ferved feveral fmall meteors in the air. At
6 A. M. faw a junk fleering S. E." Killed a
bullock, weight 323^. faw the land bear
ing fouth-eaft.
Saturday to. Lipbt breezes and clear. P. M. at fun-fet ex1-
Atapchorc.fr , o
the high land tremes of Mettow iflands from S. E. to E.
of Tangang- (
fee. by N. 5 or 6 leagues diftant. A. M. killed
2 bullocks, weighed 4oolbs.- At 8 the high
land of Tangangfoe N. E. by E. 3 or 4
leagues. At noon came to with the coafting
• anchor in 10 fathoms water — Soft mud.
Sunday 11. Moderate and hazy. At half-paft noon the
Hindoftan came to. At 6 weighed ; at 9
made the anchoring fignal with a gun, and
came to with the coafting anchor in 9 fathoms
water, Mettow iflands from N. E. by E. to
eaft : killed a bullock, weight 29olbs. At 1*
5 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 7
Shoaled our water from 9 to § 7.^7 and £ 4
fathoms

( 4i7 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion.
fathoms water. At 8 came to in 7 fathoms
water, Mettow ifland from N. by W. to Ej
by N. At half-paft 9 weighed.
Light airs and fqually. At half-paft 3 P; M. Monday M.
came to with the coafting anchor in 21
fathoms water, Tangangfoe town, S. by W.
i W. killed a bullock, weight 28'7lbs. A. M.
received a prefent of provifions and vegeta
bles. Sailed the Clarence.
Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. received feve- Tuefday i?„
ral hogs, Sheep, &c. At 7 weighed, founded land of Tar.-
from 21 to 1 6 fathoms water, tacked occa- sa" °6
flonally, wafhed the lower and orlop decks,
and the fick birth with vinegar. At noon
the Hindoftan in company.
Light airs, inclinable to calm. P. M. c made Weiw*
. . day 144
fail. At 7 fhortened fail and came to in u
fathoms water with the coafting anchor, eaf-
termoft of Mettow iflands. North, a low-
rocky point S. S. E. 3 or 4 miles. At 7 \
weighed and made fail. At noon the Cla
rence joined us.
Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. tacked occa- Thurfdayij'
flonally. At half-paft 6 fhortened Sail and
came to with the coafting anchor in 9 fathonis c
water, cape Cheatow E. by S. Departed this sCg ab"v£
life Philip Payne, feaman. At 5 A. M. com- 37° 4°' K-
. ' E e • mitted

( 4*8 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion.
mitted his body to the deep, weighed ami
tacked occaflonally.
Friday 16. Moderate and cloudy. P. M. at 2 came to with
the coafting anchor in 7 fathoms water, cape
Cheatow N. \ E. A. M. at 7 the Clarence
weighed and made fail to found. At 9 we
weighed, foundings from J' 4 to f 5 fathoms -
water, cape Cheatow N. by W. Employed
occaflonally.
Saturday r 7. Light aks. P. 'M. tacked occaflonally. At
half-paft 6 the weftermoft point of the land
Conn Coon
Wand. E. N. E. — the eaftermoft of Coon Coon
37 33 N' Sheen iflands N.-W. by N. tacked every 2
hours. A. M. hove to and hoifted in the
launch, killed a bullock, weight 289^3.
Hindoftan and Clarence in company.
Sunday iS. Light airs. At 4 P. M. in ift reef top-fails ex
tremes of the land to the eafterward S. E. by
E. A. M. founded from § 13 to 16 fathoms
water. At 7 tacked, founded in 16 fathoms
water. Hindoftan and Clarence in company.
Monday 19. Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. fent the yawl
The to found to what appeared to us a Shoal, but
s!ns."w.' proved to be the reflections of the clouds.
»iMSuneS. At 6 extremes of the land from S. E. by E.
to W. by S. diftant 3 leagues, tacked occa
flonally, and founded in 30 fathoms water,
A. M.

( 4i9 ,)
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
Yellow Sea.
A. M. killed a bullock, weight 28olbs. walk
ed' lower and orlop decks. Hindoftan and
Clarence in company.
Ditto weather with a fouth-eaft fvvell. P< M. Tuefday- i0.
at 3 fqually. At 5 light airs, faw the land Mandarin's
from S. by W. to S. W. by W. 6 or 7 leagues. N.w.hyN.
At midnight calm. At 4 A. M. . light airs, 37° ** N*
with a S. E. fwell. At 6 cape Chanton,
S. S. W. 1 9 fathoms water. Employed oc
casionally.
Light airs with a foufh*eaft fwell. P. M. at 3 Wejr.e-*
day 2i-
fqually. At 4 cape Chanton N. W. § N.
founded in 16 fathoms water., At midnight
clear. A. M. employed occaflonally.
Moderate and clear. P. M. faw a whale, and JburC-
•* day 22.
at half-paft 9 an eclipfe of the moon, which
continued to half-paft 12, never being more
than two thirds eclipfed, by which we calcu
lated our longitude to be 122 deg. 41 min.
eaft of Greenwich.*
* It appears evident from this obfervation, that thofe hifto*
riaris who have treated of China were very imperfedt in their
geographical eftimates ; as Pekin, which is confiderably to the.
eaftward of that coaft where the obfervation was taken, is only
Hated at 116 degrees of eaft longitude ; fo that the difference is
almoft 7 degrees ; a cogent proof of their ignorance relative to .
the interior hiftory of this empire.
E e 2 Light

( 426 ) '
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
off China.
T793« Light breezes and clean P. M. at i founded
Auguft. in 22 fathoms water. At midnight founded
1 ay *3' in 20 fathoms water. At 4 A. M. founded
in 1 9 fathoms water. At 6 made fail, and at
8 founded in 20 fathoms water.
Saturday 44. Light breezes and clear. Tried the current and
found it fet N. § E. 2 miles ; at 8 cloudy, at
midnight no bottom ; at 3 A. M. made fail,
waShed the lower and orlop decks, Hindof-
, tan and Clarence in Company.
Suaday 45, Moderate and clear. :*" P. M. made fail ; at
midnight .departed this life Robert Cham
bers, cooper ; at 2 A. M. committed the
body to the deep ; at 6 faw the land bearing
from S. by E. to S. S. W. at 7 fqually, at 9
Clarence ifland 6 or 7 miles bearing S. by E.
at noon founded in 20 fathoms.
M«nky26. Moderate and cloudy. At 5 P. M. extremes of
Jackall's ifland from weft to W. N. W. At
s. s!w. 6 departed this life Wm. Bell, feaman ; at 9
Nofe n°w. committed the body to the deep. Lion .
ifland W. Blunt Peak ifland W. by S, in
7 fathoms water.
Tuefday iy, Frefh breezes with rain. At 1 P. M. came to
off Trce-a- with the coafting anchor in 5I fathoms.
'top'fl Buffalo's Nofe S. S. E. Truman's ifland
SiE.

Iri
"Ift

( 42i )
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
off China.
S. | E. At 5 out launch, at 6 the cutter with 1793.
Mr. Whitman went on an embaffy to Chufan. a^T
A. M. frequent gufts of wind.
$<reih breezes and fqually, with rain. People wednef-
employed occaflonally. \
Squally, with rain. Departed this life Mr. Thurf-

Wm. Cox, 4th Lieutenant, fent the body on
fhore to be buried. A. M." arrived the Cla-

day 29.

rence.
Squally, with rain. At 2 P. M. weighed; Friday- 30.
turning through Goff's Paffage ; at 7 an
chored in 1 1 fathoms, Kitlo N. E. | N. At At anch<:r
off Kitto's
5 A. M. weighed, at half paft 7 anchored Point. ' '
in 1 o fathoms, Kitto Point N. £ E. Read
Mr.Omanny's commiffion as 4th Lieutenant,
and Mr. Warren's as acting to the fhip's '
company.
Squally, with rain. Employed occaflonally ; Saturday 31.
fent the cutter to found and wafhed the
decks.
Moderate and cloudy. A. M, half-paft 4 somber.
J ' + Sunday I.
weighed, working into Chufan harbour, at
1 1 came to with the coafting anchor in 9
fathoms ; carried out a kedge with 4 haw-
fers to warp the Ship ir.to the anchoring
E e 3 places ;

( 4" )
Remarks on board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
off China.
T^- place; at half paft n weighed. Employed
s^^mber. warping.
Monday 2. Frefh breezes and fqually, with rain at times.
Employed warping to the kedge ; at 2 came
to with the beft bower in 6 fathoms, moored
Ship a cable each way, beft bower to the
N. N. E. fmall bower S. S. W. center of the
hill at the eaft end of Chufan town N. E. by
E. % mile. A. M. light breezes and fair;.
loofed fails to dry. Employed rounding the
fmall bower cable,
Tuefday 3. Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. fent down
^ichur™'" royal mafts and rigging, unbent the fails, and
jiaruour. unrove the running rigging. A. M. fent
down top-gallant mafts. Received water.
wednef. Light breezes and fair. Employed overhauling
the rigging; at 6 A. M. fent the fick on
Shore, Struck yards and top-mafts. Shipped
fore and main top-mafts,
Thurr- Light breezes > and cloudy. Employed oyer*
hauling the top-maft rigging; received a
bullock on board.
Friday 6. Light breezes and cloudy, with lightning in the
S. W. People fitting the rigging afrefh.
A. M, launch watering, killed a bullock, 201 lbs,

( 4*3 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
off China.
20ilbs. Departed this life Richard Wei lb, t7§3-
feaman ; committed his body to the deep. September.
Moderate and cloudy. Employed about the Saturday ?..
top-maft rigging, received 2 bullocks and
105 pumpkins. A. M. employed as before,
killed a bullock, 204lbs. waftied lower • or
orlop decks.
Moderate and fair. Employed abo.ut the rig- Sunday 8.
ging, killed a bullock, 2861bs. A. M. yawl
watering, received a bullock and 4 goats.
Punifhed a feaman with 12 lathes, for
theft.
Light breezes and cloudy. A. M. received Monday 9.
water per launch, rigged the top-maft, killed
a bullock and 4 goats, 29ilbs. received wa
ter per launch and 2 bullocks.
Moderate and cloudy, with heavy rain. A. M. Tuefday io.
light winds and fair. People about the rig
ging and blacking the yards, caulking over
the fide, launch watering, killed 2 bullocks,
395lbs.
Light airs and cloudy. Employed overhauling wcdnef-
the rigging. A. M. roufed up the beft bower
cable and Stowed Slaves under it. Departed
this life Stephen Pounce, feaman ; interred
the body. E e a Moderate

( 424 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour.
1793. Moderate and cloudy, with heavy rain. Em-
se^ibe'r. ployed as neceffary. A. M. launch and
dahUi2. yawls watering.
Eriday 13. Moderate breezes with rain. Employed as be
fore, launch and yawls watering. A. M.
employed clearing the after-hold and rattling
the top-maft rigging. Saluted a mandarin,
with 3 guns.
Saturday 14. Moderate breezes with rain. P. M. employed
in the after-hold, faluted a mandarin with 3
guns, and a fuperior one with 7. A. M.
punifhed a feaman with 12 laShes, for
drunkennefs.
Sunday ?5. Light breezes and cloudy. Arrived the Endea
vour brig. A. M. the Endeavour faluted
with 7 guns, returned 5 ; received watc*, em
ployed Starting it ; Swayed up the lower
yards, Added top-gallant and royal mafts,
rattled the lower rigging, received bread from
the Hindoftan.
Monday 16. Moderate breezes. Employed watering.
Tuefday 17. Light winds and cloudy. P. M. received bread
from the Hindoftan. A. M. fent the launch
to thejackall's afliftance, Ihe being on Shore
without the harbour. Employed Shifting the
'coals and rattling the rigging. Fired 21
lower

< 4*5 )
Remarks on Board his Majeftfs Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour.
lower deck guns, being the Emperor of 1793,
China's birth-day ; killed a bullock and 4 ^ff^^
goats.
Moderate and cloudy. Launch affifling the wednef-
Jackall ; at midnight frefh breezes and
fqually, with violent peals of thunder aud
fierce flafhes of lightning; Struck the royal
mafts, fecured the. pumps and magazines.
A. M. yawls watering.
Moderate and cloudy. Yawls watering, got Thurf-
royal mafts upon deck, Struck yards, top-
mafls and top-gallant-mafts. A. M. people
employed occaflonally: received from the
Hindoftan beef and pork.
Light 'breezes and clear. Employed in the Friday 20,
after-hold, caulkers on the larboard fide, re
ceived on board beef from the Hindoftan,
and water per launch.
Light breezes and clear. Employed flowing saturdayir.
the after-hold; launch and yawls watering,
received from the Hindoftan beef and pork.
A. M. received from ditto beef, oatmeal,
and flour ; cooper repairing the heads of the
cafks. Scraped the larboard Side.
Light breezes and cloudy. Employed flowing Sunday 22.
' away provifions, coopers as before. A. M.
cleared haufe, launch watering. Light

( 4*6 )
¦ Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour.
1793- Light breezes 'and cloudy. Caulkers as be-
september. fore. A. M. punifhed a feaman with
12 lafhcs, for infolence. Coopers and
caulkers as before, launch and yawls
watering. Received bread from the Hin
doftan.
Tuefday 24. Light breezes and cloudy. Caulkers on the lar
board fide, received peas from the Hindoflan,
received water. Painters about the Stern.
A. M. received pork, beef, Oatmeal, and
flour, from the Hindoftan.
Wednef- FreSh gales and fqually. People and painters
as before. A. M. employed fcraping the
Sides, received 4 bullocks, killed 2, weight
4261bs.
thmr- FreSh gales and fqually. People and painters
day 261 ' as before. A. M. received rum from the
Hindoftan, received water on board,
>iiday27. Moderate and fair. Received beef and pork
from the Hindoftan, painters about the fides,
caulkers, and fail-makers employed, people in
the hold,, received a bullock, killed 2, weight
432ibs. A. M. received from the Hindoftan
beef, pork, fuet, and vinegar. Launch and
yawls watering.
Saturday 28. Moderate and fair. Painters as" before, fail-
makers repairing 'the Clarence fjiils, received peafe,

( 427 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour.
peafe, oatmeal,, and flour from the Hindof- 1793.
tan. A. M, received vinegar, beef, and scoter.
pork from the Hindoftan, and water per
yawls.
FreSh breezes and cloudy. P. M. completed Sunday 29,
the holds, received 3 bullocks, killed 2,
weight 37 ilbs. received from the Hindoftan
beef, pork, fuet, and vinegar. A. M. yawls
* watering.
FreSh breezes and cloudy. Gunners painting Monday 30.
the guns. A. M. carpenters repairing the
launch on fhore,* people pointing the ends of
the cables, received bread from the Hindof
tan, ferved vinegar to the people.
Moderate and fair. Gunners as before, car- oiWbc,.
penters repairing the launch, killed two bul
locks, 3 1 ilbs. fet up the fore and main rig
ging. A. M. fail-makers as before.
Moderate and cloudy, wifh rain. Received 8 wedncr,
bullocks, 16 goats, and 7 00 bundles of wood,
faluted a mandarin with 7 guns, received
wood from the Hindoftan, A. M. coopers
Shaking empty caSks ; yawls watering, killed
2 bullocks, 367lbs.
Moderate and cloudy with rain. Carpenters TiwKay 3.
repairing the launch, .killed 2 bullocks, 305lbs.

( 428 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour.
T795- 3°5lbs. coopers as before. A. M. received 2
'ocfober.' bullocks, fcraped lower gun-deck, yawls
watering.
Friday 4. FreSh breezes and cloudy. Carpenters lining
the lower deck ports and repairing the launch,
cleared haufe, received water, killed 2 bul
locks, weight 307^.
Saturday 5. FreSh breezes and cloudy. Employed working
up junk, carpenters as before, caulkers caulk
ing the launch's bottom. A. M. rain. Em
ployed working up junk, killed 2 bullocks,
3oolbs. received water per yawls.
iSumiay 6. FreSh breezes and cloudy. Carpenters, caul
kers, and fail-makers as before ; received
water per yawls, killed a bullock, 24ilbs.
A. M. received on board a bullock, cleared
haufe.
Monday 7. .Moderate and fair. Caulkers on lower-gun
deck, received 4 bullocks. A. M. received
water per yawl, wafhed and fmoked lower
gun deck, carpenters repairing the launch,
fail-makers repairing the forefail, caulkers
on board the Clarence, killed 2 bullocks^
43 ilbs.
Tuefday s. Moderate and fair. Caulkers and fail-makers
as before, received 2 bullocks, killed 1, weight
273IDS, A. M. emploped watering, furvey-
2 ed

( ^9 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
in Chufan Harbour
¦ cd the gunner's ftores, the fick returned on 1793.
b°ard> oTob^
Light breezes and fair. Carpenters lining lower "wednef-
deck ports. A. M. fwayed up top-mafis,
lower yards, and top-gallant-mafts. Sail-
makers as before, killed a bullock, 2z81bs.
Light breezes and fair. Employed Setting up Timri-
the top-maft rigging, coopers repairing bana- iy '
coes, received water per yawls. A. M, clear
ed haufe, killed 2 bullocks, 24olbs
Light breezes and fair. P. M. fent a party to Friday m
bring off the launch. A. M. rove the run
ning rigging and bent the fails, fail-makers
making hammocks, received wood, killed a
bullock, 2i5lbs. yawls watering.
Moderate and fair. P. M. received 2 bullocks Saturday m,,
and 4 goats, killed 2 bullocks, 479^. The '
grand mandarin paid us a vifit, faluted him
with ,7 guns on his coming oU board and
leaving the fhip, manned fhip at his pafling.
A. M. employed getting ready for fea.
Moderate and fair. Received 4 bullocks and 8 Sunday 13.
goats. A. M. unmoored Ship, emp'oyed
watering ; at 1 1 weighed the fmall bower,
and fhifted 2 cables length further down,
and came to in 6 fathoms, received 2 bul
locks,

( 43<5 ) .
Remarks on Board his Majefty s Ship Liott,
in Chufan Harbour.
locks, and killed one of them, weight 228lbs»
Sailed the Endeavour and Jackall.
Monday 14. Light breezes and cloudy. Received wood and
2 bullocks, killed i, weight 293lbs. fail-
makers as before : departed this life Thomas
Addifon, feaman ; interred the body.
Tuefday 15. Moderate and cloudy. Caulkers on the main
deck. A. M. killed a bullock, weight
234ibs.
Wcdnc-r- Light breezes and fair. Sent 10 invalids on
daj ' " board the Hindoftan. A. M. puniflied a
feaman with 12 lathes, for riotous behavi
our.
Thmf- Moderate and clear. Saluted a mandarin with
7 guns, returned the Hindoftan's falute with
9: at 5 weighed, found the anchor flock
gone ; half-paft five came to with the coafting
anchor in 19 fathoms, Deer Ifland N. by W.'
A. M. half-paft 9 weighed, turning towards.
Kitto Point, carpenters employed making an
anchor Stock.
Friday is. Moderate and clear. P. M. at 3 running
through Goff's Paffage ; at 4 faluted a man
darin with 4 guns on his leaving the fhip ;
half-paft 5 came to with the coafting anchor'
in 7 fathoms, Buffalo's Nofe S. W. by W/
3 hoifted

( 431 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off China.
hoifted in the launch, killed 2 bullocks
462lbs. -A. M. at half-paft 6 weighed and
made fail, Clarence in company; at noon
Patchacock ifland N. W. § N. 7 or 8 miles.
Frefh breezes and cloudy. Half-paft noon ex- Saturday 19.
tremes of Hefan iflands from S. W. by W.
to S. W. by S. at 6 in 2d reefs, at 10 in 3d
reefs : at noon the Clarence in company.
Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. at 2 out 3d Sunday sa.
and 2d reefs ; ftrong breezes, at nine in 3d
reefs. A. M. killed a bullock, 2 24ibs. at 9
lowered the top-fails to keep the Clarence
a-headj fail-makers making a covering for"
the pinnace : at noon Clarence in company.
Frefh breezes. P. M. . at 2 hoifted the top- Monday sr.
fails, at 6 fpoke the Clarence, at 5 A. M. out
3d reefs, at 10 faw 6 junks, at noon feveral
junks in fight ; carpenters flocking the beft
bower anchor, Clarence in company.
Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. at 5 out 2d Tuefday u,
reefs. A. M. at 6 faw Pedro Blanco N. by
E, | E. at noon the weft end of the great
Lama N. by W. eaft end N. E. by N. ¦
armourers af the forge.
Ditto, weather. P. M. at 4 the body of the Wednef-
ifland of Tarlow Chow N. N. W. fhortened day '5
fail

11

( 432 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion^
off China.
j793. fail and came to with the coafting anchor hi
6 1 ; fent the Clarence to Macao. A. M. at
9 weighed and made fail ; at noon came to
with the coafting anchor in 8 fathoms, Tar-
low Chow N. by E. f E. Macao town
W. N. W. 7 or 8 miles.
Thm-r- Ditto weather. Yawls watering. A. M. gun
ners ftretching breeching ftuff, coopers re
pairing banacoes.
Friday 25. Ditto weather. Yawls watering. A. M. fqually;
coopers as before.
Samrday2,6i Frefh breezes and cloudy. Yawls watering, Sail-
makers making coats for the mafts. AM.yawls
as before, Shewed our colours to a Ship in the
offing, cleared the boatfwain's ftore-room.
Sunday 27. Frefh breezes and fair. Yawls watering. A. M.
employed occasionally.
Monday 28. Light breezes and pleafant weather. P. M.
the Clarence anchored clofe to us ; paffed
us the Washington, American Ship. A. M.
fail-makers covering man-ropes, and other
jobs.
Tuefday 29. Ditto weather. Yawls watering; at 8 failed
the Clarence for Macao. A. M. at 6
weighed, found the flock of the coafting an
chor' gone, made fail, half-paft 9 Shortened fail

( 433 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion, off
the Ladrones.
fail and came to with the beft bower in 10
fathoms, Tarlow Chow N. W. by W. § W.
Sam Coke N.' W. ¦§ N. carpenters fitting a
new anchor flock, a fwell E. S. E. At noon
weighed and made fail, fail-makers as before.
Light breezes and pleafant weather. Half-paft wednef-
12 found the fore-top-maft fprung, down off Macao,
. among the
top-gallant-yard and malt upon deck, fhort- Ladrones.
ened faiL At 4 came to with the beft bower
in 10 fathoms Water, Tarlow Chow E. N. E.
down fore-top-maft, fent the pinnace and
yawl on fervice) carpenters fifhing the fore-
top-maft, and cutting another fid hole, wafhed
lower gun-deck.'
Frefh breezes and foggy. Carpenters as before, Thura
fwayed the fore-top-maft and end, and flatted
the top-maft rigging. A. M. Added the top-
maft, and fet up the rigging; carpenters
making a coafting anchor flock, the boats
returned on board, anchored a fchopner with
hands for us.
Ditto weather. Swayed tip the fore-yard.. November.
J Friday i.
A. M. fwayed up top-gallant-mafts, carpen
ters as before, fail-makers repairing the main-
fail.
F f Moderate

( 434 )
kemarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion, off
the Ladrones.
*793' Moderate and fair. P. M. at 4 arrived a Ship
November, from the N. N. E. which Shewed French co
lours, fent the boats after her, cut the beft
bower cable and made fail, fired a Shot to
bring her to. At 6 the run into the Typer-,
hauled our wind to port, tacked occaflonal
ly : at half-paft 7 came to with the coafting
anchor in 5 fathoms water, Macao town W.
by, N. 3 miles, Tarlow Chow 7 or 8 miles :
at 9 the boats returned. A. M. at 5 fent an
officer to Macao. Departed this life Stephen
Smart, quarter-matter : at 8 committed his
body to the deep : half-paft 9 weighed and
made fail, turning towards the buoy of the
beft bower, coopers packing empty Staves.
Sunday 3. Moderate and fair. P. M. at half-paft noon
Shortened fail and came to with the coafting
anchor in our old birth ; employed creeping
for the end of the beft bower cable, and get
ting it entered hove Short on it. A. M. hove
up the beft bower. Half-paft 8 weighed.the
coafting anchor and made fail ; wafhed lower
and orlop decks. At noon the body of Tar
low Chow, E. by S. 6 miles.
Monday* Light airs and eloudy. At 5 Affes Ears S. | W.
6 miles. A. M. at 9 frefh breezes and.
cloudy :

( 435 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion, off
the Ladrones.
cloudy: Split the fore-fail, clewed it up to J793«
repair, rove double Sheets and proper tacks. November.
Ditto weather. At 6 Pedro Blanco N. N. E. Tuefday 5.
A. M. at 3 in 2d reefs. At 7 fplit the main
top-fail, clewed it up to repair. Half-paft 7
tacked down top-gallant-yards, carried away
the mizen -top-fail-yards, unbent the fail,
Sheeted home main-top-fail. At noon got up
a jury mizen-top-fail-yard, and fet the fail.
Carpenters making a mizen-top-fail-yard.
Moderate and cloudy. P. M. unbent the fore- wednef.
fail and bent another ; founded in 23 fathoms ay
water. At midnight in 3d reefs, and furled
mizen-top-fail. At 3 A. M. fet the mizen-
top-fail ; fail-makers making a new main
top-fail out of two fprit-fail courfes. Half-
paft 10 tacked out 3d reefs. At noon got
up a proper mizen-t op -fail-yard. Pedro
Blanco, E: S. E. 7 miles.
Ditto weather. P. M. unbent the mizen to Thurfday 7.
repair, fail-makers as before, and repairing
the fore-fail. ^ A. M. tacked occaflonally.
Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. at 8 more Friday 8.
moderate, out 2d reefs. At midnight tack
ed. A. M. carried away the jib-flay and
F f 2 haul-

( 43^ )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion, off
the Ladrones.
1793. haul -yards, fpliced them : carpenters making
Nc^ber. a machine to make rope with.
Saturday 9. Ditto weather. P. M. at 4 unbent the new
fore-fail, and bent the old one. At 2 A. M.
carried away the jib-tack, repaired ditto. At
5 carried away the main-top-gallant-fheet,
fpliced ditto, employed making a rope.
Sunday 10. Ditto weather. P. M. at 6 in 2d reefs ; at 7
found the fore-top-maft fprung 5 feet above
the cap, in 3d reef fore-top-fail, down fore-
top-gallant-yard and matt. A. M. ftrong
gales, down main and mizen-top-gallant-
yards : at 4 in 4th reef fore- top-fail : at noon
fqually, furled the mizen-top-fail.
Mohday u, FreSh gales and cloudy. P. M. at 4 wore Ship :
at 6 ftrong gales and hazy, with a heavy fea,
handed fore- top-fail : at 8 heavy gales, handed
main-top-fail, fplit the main-fail, fet'main-
ftay-fail, and handed part of the main-fail,
the remainder having blown from the yard :
at 9 fet main-top-fail : at half-paft 9 fet
mizen-top-fail : at A. M. fplit main-top-fail,
furled it, balanced and fet mizen : at 3 fet
ftorm j fore and mizen-ftay-fail : af 6 fplit
main-flay-fail, hauled it down to repair; at
half-paft 8 let fore-top-fail, clofe reefed, un
bent

( 437 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off the Ladrones.
bent main-top-fail, and fent it down : at 1793.
noon a heavy fea. ^£bL.
FreSh gales and cloudy. P. M. at 2 Unbent Tuefday 12.
the remainder of the main-fail, bent another
main-top-fail, and fet it clofe reefed. At 6
furled the fore-fail, bent another main-fail,
and furled it. A. M, at 5 out 4th and 3d
reefs fore-top-fail, and 3d reef main-top-fail,
fet mizen-top-fail, faw the land N. W. by W.
loofed courfes. At 8 found the main top-
mafl fprung in the cap, out 2d reef mizen-
top-fail. At noori the eaft end of the Great
Lama, E. N. E. Affes Ears W. S, W. fwayed
up fore-top-gallant-maft.
Light breezes and fair. P. M. at 4 out all Wednef,
¦ . - ' day *3>
reefs : at 7 Shortened fail and came to with
the coafting anchor in 16 fathoms water,
Cockerpow N. W. by W. A. M. at 9,
weighed and made fail: at 11 in 2d reefs,
tacked Ship. At noon the Grand Ladrone,
W. by E. a heavy fwell.
Frefli breezes and clear. At 1 came to with. Thwf-
day 14.0
the coafting anchor in 13 fathoms water, the
: Grand Lama, W. S. W. A. M. at 6 weigh
ed and made fail: at 1 o Shortened fail and;
F f 3 came.

( 438 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off the Ladrones.
1793. came to with the coafting anchor in 71
November. fathoms water, Tarlow Chow, N. N. E.
Friday is. Ditto weather. P. M. at 4 weighed and made
fail ; at half-paft 4 came to with the coafting
anchor in 7 fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. § S.
A. M. half-paft 6 weighed and flood into
Sam Coke. At 7 came to with the coafting
anchor in 6 | fathoms water, Sam Coke,
E. S. E. 1 mile, got fore and main-top-gal-
lant-mafts upon decks : yawls watering.
Samrdayi6. FreSh breezes and hazy with rain. Sent the
main-top-maft dowo, and another up-; car-
penters making a fore-top-maft out of the
old main one, fent down the fore-top-maft,
and cut it up, it being unferviceable in its
proper ufe. A. M. Added main-top-maft,
and fwayed up the yard : employed making
rope.
Sunday 17. Frefh breezes with rain. Carpenters converting
the main-top-maft into a fore one. A. M.
arrived the Clarence.
Monday 18. Moderate and cloudy. Dried fails, yawls wa
tering, fwayed up top-gallant-mafts, and fet
up the rigging: yawls watering.
Tuefday 19. Moderate and hazy. P. M. yawls as before,
carpenters repairing the Clarence boat, fail-
makers

( 439 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off Macao.
makers repairing the fore-fail, people making 1793.
rope, failed the Clarence. A. M. rove new N^mter.
fore and main-top-fail-braces : yawls water
ing.
Frefh breezes and fair. P. M. at 5 loofed and Wednef-
hoifted top-fails, fired 4 Shot to bring to a
veffel in Shore, She Shewed Englifh colours,
fent a boat on board her. A. M. muttered
at quarters, found the fhip driving, dropt the
beft bower, carpenters repairing the yawl.
Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. at 1 fired a Thurf-day 2 i*
Shot and brought to a brig under American
colours, fent an officer to examine her pa
pers, and found She belonged to the ifle of
France, named the Emilia, Dumift and Rou-
fell, merchants on the faid ifland, laft from
the N. W. coaft of America, with 271 fur
Skins on board ; detained her as a prize, fent
a petty officer and 7 men to take charge of
her. At half-paft 1 weighed the beft bower.
A. M. at 5 the prize fired 3 mufquets, fent a
boat on board her, found her driving, fecured
her with hawfers, &c. At 8 found our fhip
driving, dropt our beft bower ; the yawl that
was aftern of the prize was loft, the officer
brought her Stern on board.
F f 4 Frefh

( 440 )
Remarks on board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off Macao.
1793. Frefh breezes. P. M. at 4 hove up the beft
No^mber. bower, employed making rope. A. M.
Friday 22. found the ^ driv.;ng5 ^ropt tne beft bower.
Half-paft 7 ftruck top-gal lant-mafls, made
the hawfer, the prize was riding by faft to
the Ship through the gun-room port for
ward.
Saturday 23. Frefh gales and cloudy. P. M. employed
working up junk: at 5 anchored the Cla
rence. A. M. the Clarence drove, with 3
anchors, a head; fail-makers repairing the
fore-fail.
Sunday 24. Frefii breezes and clear. Sail-makers repair
ing the main-fail, the Clarence weighed her
anchors, feni: her under ihe lee of Tarlow
Chow for Shelter. A. M- muttered at quar
ters.
Monday 25. Frefa breezes and clear. People employed oc
casionally. A. M. weighed the beft bower,
and parted the coafting cable, let go the fmall
bower, yawl, and pinnace creeping for the
end of the cable. Caft off the prize.
Tuefday 26. Moderate and clear. Received 9 feamen and
a boy from the Clarence, yawl and pinnace
as before, fail -makers repairing courfes. De
parted this life Thomas Steward, feaman.
A. M.

( 44i )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off Macao.
A. M. committed the body of the deceafed 1793,
to the deep. J^T*
L , November.
Moderate and clear. P. M. yawls and pinnace w,dner-
as before, creeping for the end of the cable,
which they got ; employed Securing it. A. M.
failed the prize brig for the Typer, to land
the prifoners at Macao,,
Light breezes and fair. P. M. at 5 hove up Thurf-
the beft bower and warped the fhip to the
coafting anchor, got the end of the cable on
board, and weighed the anchor, made fail.
At half-paft 5 came to with the beft bower
in 7 J fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S. 2
miles. A. M. yawls watering, bent the
coafting cable, the inner end to the anchor,
wafhed below. Arrived the Emilia.
Moderate and cloudy. P. M. at 3 weighed Friday 29.
and flood in for the watering ifland, but fal
ling little wind came to again with the beft
bower in 5 fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S.
fail-makers repairing the courfes. A. M.
yawls watering. r
FreSh breezes and cloudy. P. M. at 3 weighed Saturday 30.
and Stood nearer to Sam Coke. At 4 came
to with the beft bower in 6 fathoms water,
a body

( 442 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lien,
in Chufan Harbour.
1793- body of Sam Coke, E. by S. i mile. A. M.
Decemto. Stayed the mafts, and fet up the rigging.
Sunday i. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Small boats water
ing, fail-makers repairing courfes. A. M.
caulkers about the water ways.
Monday 2. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Employed occa
flonally. A. M. employed knotting yarns
and making rope, fail-makers repairing main
top-fail. People employed occasionally.
Tuefday 3. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Small boats water
ing the Clarence. A. M. hoifled out the
launch, fent a kedge anchor and hawfer on
board the prize; carpenters repairing the
pinnace.
Wednef- Moderate breezes. Employed making rope,
day a. failed the prize from the Typer. A. M.
frefh gales and hazy. Sail-makers repairing
the main-top-fail. Sailed the Clarence.
Thurfday 5. Moderate and hazy. Employed as before.
A. M. fmall rain, fwayed up top-gallant-
maft. At 1 1 the Clarence arrived from the
Typer, with fome Englifh feamen from the
Emilia prize, fent the boat on board and
took them out.
Friday 6. Light breezes and thick foggy weather. Launch
watering, carpenters repairing the boats.
A. M.

( 443 )
Remarks on board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off Linton Ifland.
A. M. half-paft 8 weighed and made fail, 1793.
tacked occaflonally; pafled by 3 Dutch ffff£bL.
Ships.
Moderate breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. Saturday 7.
at 2 tacked, half-paft 3 came to with the beft
bower in 14 fathoms water, the north end of
Linton ifland, N. by W. fouth end E. N. E.
anchored the Clarence. A. M. wafhed
decks, failed the Clarence.
Light airs and clear. Launch watering, re- Sundays.
ceived 3 bullocks. A. M. killed them,
weight 513II3S. launch watering.
Light airs and cloudy. P. M. received 1 1 bul- Monday g.
locks, killed 4, weight 689ibs. A. M. Struck
main-top-gallant-maft, and lowered the
main-yard, lifted the main rigging, to Splice
one of the Shrouds, it being Stranded in the
wake of the fervice ; fent the yawl on board
the Warley Indiaman in the offing.
Moderate and hazy. Employed fitting the Tuefday 10.
main fhrouds. A. M. paffed by the War-
ley for Canton, employed flaying the main-
maft and fetting up the rigging, anchored
the Clarence. A. M. fwayed up the main-
yard and rattled the rigging.
4 Light

( 444 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion,
off Bocca Tigris.
1793, Light breezes and clear. P. M. fail-makers
j^^r making fkreens for the fore hatchway, failed
wednef- ^g Clarence. A. M. received water per
qay 11. A ¦
launch, carpenters repairing the cutter.
Thurf- Light breezes arid clear. P. M. received wood
and 6 bullocks. A. M. launch watering,
fwayed up royal mafts, people making nip
pers and rope, painters employed painting
the cabin and cutter ; arrived the Clarence.
.Friday 13. Light airs and fine. P. M. received water.
A. M. at 6 weighed and made fail, as did the
, Clarence, running towards the Bocca Tigris.^
Half-paft 9 inclinable to be calm, fhortened
fail, and came to with the beft bower in 6
fathoms water, veered § a cable the entrance
of Bocca Tigris, N. N. W.
Saturday^. Fine weather. At 3 P. M. weighed and made
fail, tacked occasionally. At 7 in tacking
touched the ground, run the after guns for-.
ward, hoifted out the boats to tow;, fent a
boat to found round the fhip. Half-paft j
the Clarence anchored on our larboard bow,
carried out a hawfer to her, and hove on it,
but finding her anchors came home, fent
down royal and top- gallant-yards and royal
mafts on decks*, Struck top-gallant-mafls, furled

( 445 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion, off
Bocca Tigris.
furled the fails, barred the ports in fore and 1793.
aft, ftocked the coafting anchor, and bent Dumber.
the flream cable to it, when a-ground the
body of Langute, S. W. | weft, the north
eaftermoft of Sama Chow iflands, N. by W. ,
the fouth weftermoft W. S. W. at dead low
water having 15 feet the fhip heeled to port.
A. M. employed flarting water, carried out
the coafting anchor to the S. E. and hove a
flrain, but could not move her, Started more
water. Half paft 1 1 the Clarence weighed
and anchored on our larboard, killed 5 bul
locks, weight 64olbs.
Light breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. Sunday 15.
the Clarence hauled along-fide and received
our fmall bower anchor and 2 cables, flipt
the end from the hawfe, and took it in at
the larboard Stern port. Half-paft 3 the
Clarence hauled off and laid the anchor to
the eaflward, hove taut : at f flood flipt the
Stream, and hove off to the eaflward in 6
fathoms water. A. M. Added top-gallant and
royal mafts, fwayed up the yards, Clarence
weighing the coafting anchor.
Light breezes and fine weather. Hauled the Monday is.
Clarence along-fide and took the coafting anchor

( 44^ )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion.
1793- anchor from her. A. M. at 7 weighed and
December. made fail, half-paft came to with the beft
bower in 5 fathoms water, moored Ship, the
north fort at the entrance of Bocca Tigris,
N. fouth fort N. W. by N. a fmall rocky
ifland at the entrance, N. N. W. received
i733lbs. of beef.
Tuefday 17. Light breezes and fine weather. Punifhed a
feaman with 1 2 lathes, for theft, exercifed
great guns, fail-makers making a quarter
deck awning.
Wednef. Light breezes. Received water. A. M. fail-
day 1%. bmakers as before, gunners thumming a fcreen
for the magazine, faluted a mandarin of the
firft order with 3 guns on his coming on
board.
Thuvfdayi 9 Weather as yeflerday. Saluted a mandarin
with, 3 guns on his leaving the fhip, pafled
by a fhip under Englifh colours. A. M. ar
rived 4 fhips bound to Canton, viz. Ceres,
Abergavenny, Ofterly, and Lord Thurlow ;
fent a boat on board them.
Friday 20. Light breezes and clear. People making Stop
pers, fail-makers repairing the Clarence's
fore-top-fail, exercifed the guns.
Saturdays. Moderate and cloudy. Got the guns out of
the cabbin, completed 6 on the quarter deck and

( 447 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion.
and 2 on the fore-caftle. A. M. half-paft 9 1793.
weighed with a pilot on board to take us up December.
the river, received io3tbs. frefh beef.
Light breezes and cloudy. Employed working Sunday zz.
through the Bocca Tigris, 2 forts faluted us
with 3 guns each, we returned equal number,
they likewife difplayed the colours over the
guns and drew themfelves up in ranks : at 5
fhortened fail, and came to with the fmall
bower in 5 fathoms water, veered | of a ca
ble the north point of Sketop ifland N. N. W.
a pagoda on the faid ifland N. W. A. M.
fail-makers making a poop awning, people
making Stoppers.
Light breezes and clear. P. M. weighed and Monday 23.
made fail, half-paft paft 2 anchored with the
fmall bower in 6 f fathoms, veered £ of a
cable, the north point of Sketop ifland
N. N. W. \ W- A. M. at 3 Weighed, OUt Atanchor in
Watnpoa-
all boats to tow, which were affifted by 19^1.
Chinefe boats with another tow-rope; half-
paft 3 croffed the bat between 2 fines of
boats full of lights ; half paft 7 came to with
the fmall bower in 6 fathoms, veered away
and moored fhip S. W. by S. and N. E. by N.
a cable on the fmall bower to the ebb and £ a
cable to the flood, a fquare pagoda S. E. off
fhore

( 448 )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship Lion^ iti
Wampoa River.
W& fhore i f cable, Wampoa town W. S. W. 2
December. miles, found here the Hindoftan, Royal
Charlotte, Ofterley, Ceres, Earl of Aberga-
venny, and Lord Thurlow, Englifh India-
men ; Jackall, Company's marine, and 2
Americans ; received on board wood.
tuefday 24. Light breezes and clear. P. M. employed oc
caflonally. A. M. read Mr; Omanney's
commiffion from the Lords of the Admiralty
as 5 th Lieutenant, but as Lieut. Cox's com
miffion was vacant, Captain Gower ordered
him to act as 4th ; read the order, and Mr.
Tippet's acting order as 5th, likewife Mr.
Warren's as 6th ; alfo the articles of war, and
Capt. Govver's orders to the fhip's company ;
wafhed decks, arrived the Glatton.
wednef- Light breezes and clear, People employed oc
casionally. A. M. received 715^. of frefh
beef : at noon part of the foldiers that at
tended the Ambaffador to Pekin returned on
board.
Thurf- Light breezes and clear. P. M. and A. M.
*ay 26. a
carpenters fixing fpare cabbins under the half
deck.
Friday 27. Light breezes and hazy. P. M. employed oc
caflonally. A. M. people making rope, came

( 449 ' )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship the Lion,
in Wampoa river.
eame along-fide feveral country boats with 1793*
the Ambaffador!s baggage, and 13 chefts of December.
prefents for the Ship's company from the Em
peror of China.
Moderate and cloudy. P. M. received water, Saturday 28.
employed flowing the Ambaffador's wine,
punifhed 2 feamen with 12 laShes each, for
difobedience of orders ; and 4 ditto with. 1 2.
laShes each, for difobedience and drunken-
nefs.
Light breezes and hazy. ,- Employed flowing Sunday 29.
the after-hold. A. M. received 595lbs.
frefh beef.
Light breezes and hazy. P. M. manned Ship Moaday 3?.
for his Excellency Vifcount Macartney, as
did the Hindoftan and Clarence : his Ex
cellency was cheered by all the Ships as he
paSfed ; at 2 he came on board, at 5 he left
the fhip. A. M. employed fleeting the rig
ging, punifhed 2 feamen with 12 laShes
each, for difobedience of orders.
Light breezes and fair. Employed* fetting up Tuefday 31,
rigging, and in the after- hold," cleared haufe,
fent 1 3 cafks of beef and 7 of pork on board
the Hindoftan. A. M. arrived the Lord
Walflngham from England, fent 30 cafks of
G g beef

( 459 )
Remarks 6n Board his Majefty's Ship the Lion,
in Wampoa River.
!794^ Deef and 25 of pork on board the Warleyy
employed in the hold.
Light breezes and fair. Employed in the hold,
fent 1 3 cafks of beef and 7 of pork on board
the Hindoftan.
Thurfday1 2. Moderate and cloudy. P. M. employed as be
fore. A- M. carpenters nailing battin in the.
hold to Stow Staves over, coopers fetting up
cafks.
Friday 3. Frefh breezes and fair. P. M. employed in the
holds, fell overboard and was drowned Alex
ander Ramfay, feaman. A. M. employed
in the hqld.
Saturday 4. Light airs and clear. Arrived the Hawke and
Exeter from England. A. M. people em
ployed occaflonally, arrived the Henry Dun
das from England.
Sunday 3. Light airs and clear. People as neceflary, re
ceived a boat load of water, arrived a Spa-
nilh fhip, received a top-mall from the Ceres
Indiaman. A. M. employed in the after-
hold, wafhed lower gun decks.
Monday 6. Light breezes and fair. Employed in the after-
hold, coopers repairing banacoes, punifhed
a dragoon with 12 laShes, for difobedience
of orders, riotous behaviour, and drunken-
nefs, 3 Mode=

( 45i )
Remarks on Board his Majefty's Ship the Lion,
in Wampoa River.
Moderate and cloudy. Received 3064^. of 1794.
bread and fome of the Ambaffador's baggage. j^T
A. M. bent fails, puniShed 2 feamen with 12
lafhes each, for theft, and a marine with 12 Tuefday 7»
lafhes, for infolence.
Moderate and cloudy; Employed as neceffary. Wedncr-
A. M. employed getting the baggage belong
ing to the Ambaffador and fuite on board,
received on board wood.
Light breezes and fair. Manned fhip and fa- Thurfday 5.
luted Lord Macartney with 1 5 guns on his
coming on board, his fuite likewife embark
ed, employed getting in the baggage. A; M.
cleared haufe, and unmoored Ship ; at 1 1
weighed the fmall bower, and dropt a little
lower dowri the river, and came to with the
finall bowery received i6oolbSi of frefh beef.

G\g a GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY

OF

CHINESE WORDS,

7

Chinese. English.
Tongau .... Sugar.
Pytong  Ditto, moift.
Pyntong .... Sugar-candy.
Swee . . . . . Water. -
Lyangfwee . . . Ditto, cold.
Kiefwee .... Ditto, hot.
Pynfwee .... Ditto, ice.
Man-toa .... Bread.
Tchau  Tea.
Ttchau-woo . . . Tea-pot,
Tchee-tanna (in the~\
northern provinces) J °° "
Kee-tanna (in thefouth-'\
em provinces) j
Yien ...... Tobacco.
Yien-die  Tobacco-pipe.
Jee-au  Fowls,.
Yam>zau .... Ducks.
Ly-fau Rice*

( 453 )
CHINESE. ENGLISH.
Ly-fau (in the northern} >Rice.
provinces) J
Faun-na (in thofe abouf\ _ .
tt 7 • . ?-"Rice.
Honichew province) • J
Mee (ftouthern provinces) Ditto.
Joo-au  Wine.
Samtchoo, or Sowtchoo Spirits.
Yeu-oa . ... . . Fifh.
Loa-boo . . . . Turnips.
Ghutz-yau . . . . Pepper.'
T. _ . f To, afk the name of a
Jrfhimau . . . . < ,. ; ' ,
L thing or place.
Chou-au .... Good.
Boo-chou .... Bad.
Yinna . . . . . Salt, . ^
Poit-zie . . . . . General term, for greens.
Tanhau ...... Coals.
Yoong . . „ . . A hawk.
Pyeng ..... Soldier.
Pyng  Ice.
_ . fChop'fticks for eating
Quoitzau . . . . < .A
[ with.
Laatchoo .... Candle,
Tchooa  Lights.
Tzou-fhia .... Shoes, in general.
Chow-chow . . . Victuals. or meat.
Chee fanna . . . . To eat meats.
Kjowaa To

{ 454 )
CHINESE. ENGLISH*
Kowaa .... To broil.
Mann, Mann . • . Stop or wait.
Lobb, Lobb .... Joining or coifionV
Tziu  Paper.
Join . . . . . . God, or Deity.
Chinchin .... To fupplicate or pray.
Youwafs .... Furnace.
Too-paa  A pagoda.
rr, . f A fweet fpirit like nirri-
Tong-joo . . . .| ^^i1
Chop-chop ... To make hafte.
Foockee .... Man.
Foockee-lou . . . Good-morrow, Sir.
Niodzaa  Milk.
Hoong  Cheefe.
Toudzaa .... Knife.
Ickoochop .... Very beft.
Icko  One.
Liaungko . ,, . . Two.
Suangko .... Three.
Soocko ..... Four.
Oocko ..... Five.
Leowcko .... Six,
Shicko . . ... . Seven. ,
Packo ..... Eight.
Jowcko .... Nine. •
Sheego . . . . . Ten.
Sooee  Sleeps
Hongjoo Red

( us )

CHINESE.
Hongjoo . .
Tchau-wanna Jeebau . .
TyShaufuee Meeoulaa .
K^mfhaa .

English,
Red- wine.
A tea- cup.
2 1 cubits, or i yard*
Bed.Have not or cannot,
Gift or prefent.

FINIS,

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