iS^«<?z<?e<a^W?^<

AN

ACCOUNT

OF

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE;

CONTAINING

An Historical View of its original Settlement by the Dutch,
its Capture by the British in 1795, and the different Policy
pursued there by the Dutch and British Governments. Also
a Sketch of its Geography, Productions, the Manners and
Customs of the Inhabitants, &c. &c.

WITH

A VIEW OF THE POLITICAL AND COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES WHICH
MIGHT BE DERIVED FROM ITS POSSESSION BY GREAT BRITAIN.

BY CAPTAIN ROBERT PERCIVAL,
Of His Majesty's Eighteenth or Royal Irish Regiment; and Author of an
Account of the Inland of Ceylon.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR C. AND K. BALDWIN, OF NEW BIUDGE-STKEET.
1804.

TO
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS FIELD-MARSHAL
THE DUKE OF YORK,
ETC. ETC,

May it please your Royal Highness,
JL.HE condescension with which your
Royal Highness allowed your name Lo be prefixed to my
former publication, has emboldened me again to request
your patronage and protection to a work of a similar
nature. The approbation which a generous Public has bestowed
upon my Account of Ceylon proves, that the liberality of
my countrymen' induces them to look at the object as
well as the execution of a work ; and that inexperience in
composition will in a great measure be excused in him
who appears to have the interests of his country in view.
Animated by this consideration, I have ventured to pre
sent to your Royal Highness, the following account of the
4

iv DEDICATION.
observations which I was enabled to collect during my
occasional visits to the Cape of Good Hope. The period
of war is not indeed the proper season for a Soldier to be
employed with his pen; yet I trust the following volume
will be found to contain several circumstances which, both
in a military and political point of view, deserve at' pre
sent the most serious consideration.
My gratitude for the distinguished patronage with which
your Royal Highness has been pleased to honour me
must be otherwise expressed than by words ; and I trust
it will ever appear in my zeal for the service of my
country, and my lively attachment to your Royal High
ness, whose unremitting exertions have diffused so many
blessings through the British army, and given the soldier
a double motive to exertion.
With such sentiments, and with the hope that my labours
may not altogether prove useless, the present work is
humbly presented to your Royal Highness, by
Your Royal Highness's most devoted
and most obedient servant,
ROBERT PERCIVAL.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER i:
Introduction— Cape of Good Hope— Origin of its Name—
Proper Seasons for passing it — Subject to Storms — First
Settlements made there by the Dutch^-Southern Peninsula
and Shores described, with a Geographical Sketch of the
Country— Its Government and Divisions on the first Esta
blishment by tJw Dutch. , Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Journal of Occurrences, during the Author's first Visit to the
Cape — Taking of the Dutch Fleet at Saldahna Bay — Des
cription of that Bay. ----- 22
CHAPTER III.
False Bay — Proper Season for anchoring there— »Rocks-*-Seal
Island — Beautiful Prospect from the Bay— Simon's Town —
Public Buildings-~-Batteries — Customs in the Dutch Time. 41
b

vi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER TV.

Road to Cape Town — Signal Posts and Batteries — Mode of
Travelling in Waggons — Fish Hook Bay — Road from thence
— Variety of Shrubs, Herbs, and Flowers, found here —
Monkeys and Baboons — Musenberg, great Strength of it and
of all the Southern Peninsula — Taking of the Cape by 4he
English Troops in 1795 — Remarks in a Military Point of
View, and Hints respecting the best Mode of attacking
the Cape. ------- Page 53
CHAPTER V.
Road and Country beyond Musenberg — Broad Lake — Game —
Quadrupeds-— Constantia — A Dutch Boor's House — Wineberg
— A Hottentot Krail Description of that People — Their
Traffic with the Dutch — Their Manners, Dispositions, and
Modes of Life — Remarks on their Treatment by the Dutch. 75
CHAPTER VI.
Description of the Country round Wineberg — An Encamp
ment and Quarters for Troops — Some Military Observations
on this Post — Fertility of the neighbouring Country — Farms
and Plantations numerous — Game plenty — Wild Animals —
Village of Round-a-Bosch — Tiger Hill— First View of the
Cape Toivn from this Side — Table Bay — The Hills and
Country round described — Description of Cape ,Town — Re-

CONTENTS. vii
marks by the Author on the Mode of attacking the Bat
teries — Amsterdam Battery — The Castle — Situation of Cape
Toivn— Streets — Healthiness of it — Regulations of the Dutch
to prevent Infectious Disorders — Company's Gardens — Go
vernment House. _-__- Page 99
CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Table Bay — Best Season for anchoring there —
Subject to violent North- West Winds in the Wmter Season
— Loss of the Sceptre Man of War — Hills about Cape
Town — Appearance of Table Mountain — Remarkable Clouds
over it, prognosticating the Weather — The different Cljmates
at the Cape — Difference between the Effects of each Season. 123
CHAPTER IX.
Country about Cape Town — Productions natural to this Part
of Africa — Vegetables, Fruit, Plants — Silver Tree described —
Fuel scarce at the Cape — Grain — Metallic Ores — Coal Mine
— Minerals — Warm Baths at Stellenbosch and Hottentot
Island. -------- 140
CHAPTER X.
Different Species of Wild Quadrupeds — Opinion concerning the
Unicorn — Various Species of Antelope and Deer — Domestic
Animals— Oxen and horned Cattle — Sheep — Birds — Wild
b2

viii CONTENTS,
Foivl<—Ostrfch<e$-~*-Wild Peacocks, and many other Species
found tern**- Venomous Animals and Reptiles-* Obnoxious
Insects and Creatures of the Fly Species. - Page 158
CHAPTER XL
Vineyards about Cape Town — Manner qf rearing and plant
ing Vines — Mode of making Wine — Various Sorts of Wine
made— *-Bad Management of the Dutch in rearing and
planting the Vines*— Several Species of an excellent Quality
—Constantia W me-*— The Farm and Village of Constantia
-^Quality qf the Grape— Other Wines of a superior Quality
Brandy Wine, or Spirits made from the Stalks and Refuse
— Sugar Canes — Barley, &c. - - - - 175
CHAPTER XII.
Journey to Stellenbosch — Strickland a Post for Cavalry —
Stellembosch — Mountains qf Parlberg — SmeUendam—Graaf
Reynet — Plettenberg Bay — Account qf the Dutch Farmers
and Planters — Their Manner of Living — Their Tillage and
Husbandry — Domestic Pursuits — Characters and Customs —
Treatment of their Cattle and Slaves — Manner of carrying
on the various Branches of Husbandry — In ivant of Im
provement qf every Kind — The Colony in a very imperfect
State owing to the bad Management of its Inhabitants —
Plans of Improvement. - - - - - 193

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTER XIII.

Character of the Planters near the Cape — Quarrels amongst
themselves respecting the Division of their Property — Uten
sils for Husbandry, Plowing, and Dressing the Land —
Improvements attempted by the English — Obstinacy of the
Dutch — No Roads through the Country — Great Inconvenience
arising from thence — No Boats to transport Waggons or
Passengers across the Rivers — Ignorance of the People of
the Interior — Many English better acquainted with their
Country — Remarks on the Cape and its Inhabitants, and its
Connections with the Mother Country. - Page 224
CHAPTER XIV.
The White Inhabitants of Cape Town — Difference between
them and those of the Mother Country — What. People first
colonized it — Manner in which they conduct themselves
towards the Females — Their Women — Manner in which both
Men and Women spend their Time — Occupations and Habits
of Life — All Ranks keep Lodging Houses — Custom at Meals,
and Food produced at their Tables — Coffee-Houses and Ta
verns first introduced by the English — Mode of Living. 251
CHAPTER XV.
Population of the Cape — Religion — Make but few Converts
of the People of Colour ; not apt to administer Baptism —
Funerals — Disposition of the White Inhabitants — Young
7

x CONTENTS.
Women fond qf Amusement — Are tolerably educated in
Music and Dancing — Contrast between the Dispositions qf
Men and Women — Latter esteemed handsome whilst young
— Marriages, Settlements, and Privileges from Birthright —
Diseases — Causes of them — Afraid of the Small Pox; which
once nearly destroyed the Colony — Are cautious of alloiving
Persons to come into the Settlement with any contagious
Distemper — The People of the Cape in general not long
lived — The Slaves — Various Nations and Classes — Laws con
cerning them — Their Qualifications — Mulattoes and Slaves of
Colour the best and dearest — Bengal and Mulabar in ge
neral faithful and good — Madagascar, African, Negro,
sulky and untr actable, strong and laborious — Malays useful,
but dreadfully vindictive and revengeful — Instances of their
cruel and sanguinary Disposition — Hottentot Slaves, Laws
concerning them — Manner in which the Dutch treat their
Slaves — Mode of punishing them — Vices and Passions to
which they are addicted — Fuel and House-rent dear at the
Cape. ------- Page 272
CHAPTER XVI.
Dispositions and Conduct of the Dutch to the English — Various
Mixture and Medley of People meeting every Day together
under the same Roof— Conduct of the English towards the
Dutch — Advantages extended toivards the Inhabitants of the
Cape by our Government — Alloived all their Laws and
Privileges in their fullest Extent — Generous Conduct of

CONTENTS. xi
General Craig towards them ; the great Benefit they de
rived from our living amongst them ; still they were ex
tremely averse to the English — Unfortunate Situation of
Holland and the Cape by the Introduction of French Prin
ciples amongst them — Jacobinism nearly overwhelming the
Cape, its dreadful Consequences averted by the Appear
ance of the English in 1795 — Obliged to unite to oppose
the English — Mortification and Chagrin at being conquered
by so feiv and raw Troops — The civil and military Go
vernment at the Cape— -Governor and Council — Fiscal or
Deputy Governor — His great Power and Privileges — Mar
tial Law existed some time after the Conquest — Police
— Active in the internal Regulation of the Town — Laivs
and Regulations required by the Inhabitants — Restiictions
on the Hottentots — Traffic with them only allowed to be
carried on with the Government People — Military Establish
ment — Not sufficient for its Defence — Bad and impolitic
Construction of their Towns and Ports — Description of the
People of the Cape — Bad Effects of their narrow Policy
and Conduct — Revenue — Exports and Imports — Little Trade
or Speculation — Government poor and needy — Observations
respecting it — That of the English contrasted ivith it —
Dutch lost all their Settlements in Asia but Batavia —
Expeditions planned against that, in 1798 and 1800 —
Precarious State of the Cape during a Mar with Eng
land—Hospitals for sick Sailors and Soldiers — The Cape
healthy — Regulations respecting sick and diseased Persons —
Revenue of the Dutch East-India Company — Their Taxes

xii CONTENTS.
and Imposts — Trade and Commerce— Taxes on Cattle, Pro
visions Slaves, &c. — Amount of Receipts — Expenditure far
greater ¦ than Revenue — The Pay of the Civil and Military
of every Denomination — View of the Establishment of the
British. ------- Page 299
CHAPTER XVIi;
Recapitulation of the Advantages to be derived by Great-
Britain from the Possession of the Cape of Good Hope —
Conclusion. ------- 327

AN

ACCOUNT

or hie

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER I.

Introduction — Cape of Good Hope — Origin of its Name.
Proper Seasons for passing it — Subject to Storms — First
Settlements made there by the Dutch — Southern Peninsula
and Shores described, ivith a Geographical Sketch of the
Country — Its Government and Divisions on the first Esta
blishment by the Dutch.
A HE Author of this work, actuated by the encourage- introductory
ment and indulgence he has received from the Public, in tions.
their favourable reception of his first literary production,
the Account of the Island of Ceylon, is induced to offer
to them the following Descriptive Sketch of the Cape of
Good Hope.
Various reasons have induced the author to present this
work to the Public at the present crisis. The contents of
the following pages were indeed collected on the spot
B

2 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
by him some time ago; but particular circumstances, com
bined with his military duties, have prevented his arrang
ing and bringing them sooner before the Public in a
mature state.
The ship on board which the Author was embarked
with a detachment of his regiment destined for the East
Indies, having, in August 1796, put into False Bay for
water and refreshments, was detained there nearly two
months by one of those incidents common in time of
war. During the period of his detention there, he had an
opportunity of seeing and examining all that tract of
country from False Bay and the opposite coast of Hot
tentot Holland, to Table Bay, Cape Town and its neigh
bourhood. This he was the better enabled to do, as the
detachment of the 19th regiment, to which he belonged,
was part of the force disembarked at Simon's Town, and
which marched for the defence of Cape Town, at that
critical period when General Craig, with the greatest part
of the garrison, proceeded to Saldahna Bay against the
Dutch Fleet under Admiral Lucas, which put in there
in hopes of being joined by a French squadron from the
Isle of France, and in conjunction with the Boors and
Colonists of the Interior attempted to retake the Cape
from the English. In this, however, they were disap
pointed by the extraordinary activity and exertion of Sir
James Craig, and the army under his command, together
with the unexpected appearance of Admiral Elphinstone,
(now Lord Keith) with the English fleet.
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
When returning from India to Europe in 1801, on ac
count of ill health contracted while on service there, the
ship in which the author was passenger put into Table
Bay, where being detained for two months, the author had
a farther opportunity of visiting several parts of the coun
try eastward of Cape Town, the villages of Stellenbosch,
Drakenstein, and Swellendam ; besides enlarging his ob
servations and obtaining more particular information of the
country in general, and the inhabitants.
From the author's residence at the Cape in the different
seasons of the year, he had an opportunity of observing
the effects resulting from their variations both to agricul
ture and commerce; an object which is here in parti
cular of the most essential importance. He was also
enabled to ascertain more accurately the nature of the
climate, and its effects on the soil and appearance of the
country, as well as to examine the natural productions
of each season.
As some years had elapsed between the different periods
of the author's touching at the Cape of Good Hope, he
had occasion to remark a change very speedily produced in
the habits and manners of the Dutch, in consequence of their
connection with the English residing amongst them, and
their intercourse with other strangers who were formerly
excluded by a jealous government. He was also enabled
to observe, with a patriotic pride, the improvements which
took place in the civil and military establishments ; and
the economy and useful regulations introduced as soon as
b 2

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
it came into the possession of the British nation, which
never fails to carry civilization, opulence, and industry,
into every quarter of the globe which is reached by her
arms or her commerce.
The inhabitants of Cape Town, and the planters resid
ing in the country parts, are composed of a heterogeneous
mixture of adventurers from almost every country of the
Continent of Europe, who have at various periods, for
several ages past, continued to form establishments for
themselves in that settlement. Such however has been the
influence of the medley of habits, customs, prejudices, and
languages, that few retain any distinguisliing trait of the
country from which they originally sprung ; and the whole
society requires to be described as a people differing ex
tremely from the natives of any part of Europe.
The author during his stay at the Cape, being, accord
ing to the custom of that country, an inmate in their
families, as every house takes in strangers and passengers
to board and lodge, who for the time are considered as
members of the family, and are in consequence admitted
to a perfect knowledge of their domestic concerns and
most private habits, had thus an opportunity of becoming
thoroughly acquainted with their characters and modes of
life; a species of information which in every instance is
useful and entertaining, but more particularly so with re
gard to the colonists of the Cape of Good Hope, who.
exhibit features so very distinct from those of the inhabit
ants either of the mother country or of the other colonies*.
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
The author is aware that several writers have already
produced works on the Cape of Good Hope; and have
given to the public, descriptions of the interior of Africa,
which some of them: have explored only with their pen.
As he, however, for his part, had not an opportunity of
visiting the interior, he does not pretend to describe it,
but confines himself to what fell under his immediate ob
servation in a tract within fifty miles round the Cape
Town; and in treating of the country which lies Avithin
that compass, he has endeavoured to give every useful
information which he could collect, and perhaps to acid
some new remarks on circumstances which may have es
caped the notice of others. He may indeed be allowed
to observe, without any imputation of arrogance or pre
sumptuous censure, that during his residence at Cape
Town, he was struck with many interesting facts respect
ing that place and its neighbourhood, which he has not
been able to. discover in any of the accounts which have
hitherto been given to the public. Those, in general,
who have undertaken to describe the Cape of Good
Hope, have said little or nothing of the principal, and
most important part of the Colony, Cape Town, and the
southern peninsula, where the chief harbours are situated;
nor have they entered minutely into the characters and
manners of the colonists ; but have immediately dashed
into, the rude, wild, and uncultivated part of the country,
filling up the pages of their journals with accounts of
their daUy transactions amongst the simple natives of

6 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Hottentot Holland and Caffraria. With others, the botany
and mineralogy of the Cape have been the sole subjects
of enquiry, while those objects which are of most import
ance in a political and commercial point of view, have
been almost entirely overlooked.
These animadversions on the works which have ap
peared relative to the Cape of Good Hope are far from
being intended to deprive them in any degree of their
particular merit. The botanist, the mineralogist, the zoo
logist, had each his own particular object in view ; and it
is but justice to say, that many of these writers who vi
sited this colony are worthy the attention of those to
whom their labours are particularly directed. The author
of the following work neither pretends to appreciate their
merits, nor at all to enter into a competition for which
he is totally disqualified by the pursuits to which his at
tention through life has been directed. All he pretends
to do is to describe, as they occurred to a man of com
mon observation, those scenes and facts which fell under
his notice; and in doing so, he presumes to hope that he
shall be enabled to point out, in plain language, the prin
cipal military and commercial advantages resulting from
this settlement, as well as the distinguishing characteristics
of its inhabitants; subjects which, he conceives, have not
been preoccupied by the more able and learned authors to
whom he has alluded. His early entrance into the mili
tary profession, and the consequent employments which have
prevented him from pursuing any regular plan of study,

THE GAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 7
are the excuses which he offered in his former work for
the want of scientific language, and a more systematic
mode of composition; and the reception which a candid
public has given to his description, in plain and common
language, of the productions of Ceylon, induces him to
pursue the same plan with regard to those of the Cape
of Good Hope. The man of science will find no difficulty
in classifying any observation which he may look upon as
useful ; and the general reader will probably not be dis
pleased to receive information at an easier rate, when di
vested of the more correct, but less understood, language of
science. The author in some measure holds it a duty in
cumbent on military men, to give to their countrymen
some account of those distant stations to which they are
sent in the course of service ; and he hopes his exertions,
however feeble, may have some effect in stimulating simi
lar efforts on the part of those officers who may find any
leisure moments from their military avocations, to devote
to pursuits of a similar nature. This practice has of late
become very general among the officers of the French
armies; and from the adoption of it among us, many na
tional advantages must result, as both the government
will become acquainted with the state of its distant pos
sessions, and the officers of our armies will become better
informed and better fitted to protect or improve the sta
tions of which they may be intrusted with the command.
The Cape of Good Hope is the southern extremity of a The Cape of
very great and mountainous peninsula, which ships must firstpossewed

8 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
by the Por- round on their voyage from Europe to India. It was first
tuguese. v
discovered by the Portuguese, who called it Cabo De Diable,
and Cabo Di Tormento, i. e. the Devil's Cape, and Cape
Torment, from the violent winds and storms they encountered
there.
Difficulty in Formerly it was thought an object of great difficulty and
passing the * n J ¦ ° J
Cape in danger to proceed by this passage ; but now that the art of
former times. navigation is brought to such perfection, and that the proper
seasons for arriving in those latitudes, as well as the prevailing
currents are so well known, the danger which was thought
to attend this part of the voyage may be considered as
Seasons for almost completelv done away. However it is necessary for
ships passing L " J
the Cape. t%)se ships which have India for the object of their voyage, to
endeavour to arrive in the latitude of the Cape in the summer
or fair season, which is from the months of October to March
or April, as during the other months of the year those seas
arc very tempestuous ; and the wind blowing from a contrary
point often prevents ships from passing or rounding the Cape
for three weeks or a month together. During this period
they remain beating about in those troubled latitudes ; and
not only lose much of their time, but are also subjected to
Subject to hardship, inconvenience, and danger. The winds which pre-
¦wolent .,., i-i ¦ 1 •
storms. vail with so much violence in the winter months are from the
north-west, and are accompanied with heavy rain, fogs, and
hail ; they blow towards the land, and the dangers arising
from this circumstance render it necessary to give the Cape
a good birth* as the sailors term it. In the summer months the
south-cast winds are predominant, and often blow with great

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 9
violence, but are attended with less danger as they proceed
from the land ; they are favourable for ships taking their
departure from the Cape, and will in a few days set them a
great way on their voyage. Ships endeavouring to put into
the Cape cannot effect it during the violence of the south-east
wind, but must lay to or drift before it till its fury is spent,
which generally happens in a few days, seldom lasting so
long as the more steady fury of the gales from the north
west. When on my return to Europe, the ship I took my passage The author
in having occasion to stop at the Cape, experienced one of a heavy
r r l storm in
those south-easters as they are called ; for though arrived at going into
the Cape.
the mouth*of Table Bay, and just coming to anchor, a violent
south-east wind rushed suddenly down from the hills over
Cape Town, and nearly swamped the vessel. She was
instantly laid down on her side, the quarter-deck guns driven
furiously over-board, and the sails in a moment split to pieces.
Fortunately only the main top-sail and fore stay-sail were set,
the rest being handed ready for anchoring, or she must in
evitably have gone down. The helm was obliged to be put
hard up, and the ship put to sea ; we came-to immediately,
and such was the great violence of the wind, and strength of
the currents, that we drifted 160 miles in thirty hours, though
lying-to all the time under bare poles. It afterwards took us
three days to make the Cape when we bore up, though we
had a strong favourable wind which carried us upwards of six
miles an hour.
After the Portuguese surmounted the difficulty of passing
C

10 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the Cape, their joy at having escaped the terrible tempests
they encountered, made them term it Cabo de Boa Espe-
ra^a, or the Cape of Good Hope, a name which has since
continued to be given to the southern extremity of the conti
nent of Africa.
First arrival So far back as the year 1620, the English attempted to
of the Eng- J ... .
lish at Sal- establish a colony here, and with this intention put into Sal-
dahna Bay. dahna Bay, which they judged to be favourable for their pur
pose. This brought on disputes with the Dutch, who asserted
a prior claim from having made use of this Bay previous to
Various na- the arrival of the English. For some years afterwards the
tions touched °
tiiereforre- various nations trading to the East-Indies, occasionally and
freshments. indiscriminately touched at Saldahna and De la Goo Bays for
water and refreshments, which they procured from the natives
for a few toys and such trifling articles as are usually em
its advan- ployed in trafficking with savages. But the want of good and
tages not r J o o o
known. safe harbours in these parts of the Cape prevented the Euro
pean nations from any attempt to establish themselves or
form a permanent settlement ; not having as yet discovered
that its more southern extremity contained those commodious
harbours now called False and Table Bay. The wild moun
tainous appearance of the country surrounding those last men
tioned bays, with the storms which were not then known to
return periodically, were sufficient to prevent navigators from
entertaining any idea of exploring these stations.
A few years afterwards the Dutch, accidentally finding out
the good anchorage and secure harbours, which were- pre
sented by False and Table Bays, and being at that time a
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 11
spirited and enterprizing people, formed the resolution of Dutch, folm
r x o ± i a resolution
establishing a colony at the Cape, and with this view sent out of colonizing
° J . l the Cape of
a few persons to occupy the settlement, and ascertain its Good Hope.
value, soil, and produce. Those earliest settlers giving a
favourable report of the station were quickly followed by
others ; and the Dutch government exerted itself to people
the colony by transporting a number of convicts, male and
female, from their pest houses and houses of industry, toge
ther with such disorderly and idle persons as they could pick
up in their sea-ports and trading towns. At first the colony Disadvan-
laboured under many difficulties. The barrenness of the soil, laboured m-
and the rude state of nature in which it remained, conspired first at-
with the general wildness of an uninhabited country to dis- 'mps'
pirit the colonists. The rugged appearance of the mountains,
the extended sandy and barren plains, subject to violent winds,
which parched up the productions of the earth, and destroyed
the produce of those spots which they had cultivated with
much labour, afforded1 them little prospect of bettering their
condition ; while the vast numbers of wild beasts which fre
quently attacked the very settlement, carrying off cattle from
the pastures, and even children from the houses, were sources
of constant inquietude. The Hottentots seemed likewise
leagued with the other savages of the forest to harass them ;
but the persevering spirit of the Dutch, which at that period
was conspicuous, surmounted every obstacle. As they be- which they
came acquainted with the evils they had to encounter, they measure? sur-
gradually learned to overcome them. Having ascertained the °un e '
nature of the climate, and the changes of the seasons at the
c 2

12; THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Cape, they entered more largely and vigourously into culti
vation. They found means to prevent the attacks of the wild
animals in a most effectual manner by thinning their num
bers : and having in a great degree conciliated the natives,
they purchased that tract of country in the vicinity of the
Cape, giving in exchange liquor, iron, toys, and such arti
cles as they knew were most gratifying to the ignorant
Hottentots.
They orga- The Dutch now becoming permanent masters of this tract,
new terri- began to form plans for establishing a regular government and
extending their territory. The daily arrival of new comers
from Holland to settle at the Cape made it necessary to
carry the settlement farther into the country. Care however
was taken to bring the more immediate neighbourhood of the
Cape into a high state of cultivation ; and with this view large
grants were made to the settlers on very advantageous terms.
The colonists who chose to remove farther into the interior
received only yearly leases, although the ground being here
much less valuable, large tracts were held at a very small
rent. At the same time in order to extend the settlement, a law
was passed which would not allow of any house to be erected
nearer than three or four miles from each other. By this
means the colony soon became extended to a great distance,
nor were any limits ever fixed to its farther- extension.
The extent The actual extent of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope
of the colony ^ x x
at the Cape has never been accurately ascertained ; but from the informa-
hard to be
ascertained, tion I obtained while there, I am led to conclude that it is
upwards of five hundred miles in length, and about half that

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 13
in breadth. The dwellings of the Dutch planters and farmers in
the remotest parts are merely supposed to extend to that dis
tance from Cape Town, as they do not measure their distances
by miles as we do, but by hours, and judge of the length
of their journey by the number of days and hours employed
in performing it, which renders it extremely difficult to
judge of its true extent : as unavoidable delays arising from
natural obstacles, such as mountains of steep ascent, rivers
which, have overflowed their banks, and various other causes
of a similar nature, may interrupt their progress, and oc
cupy a great part of their time in a journey of several
days. The Dutch have taken no observations of the country, Reasons why
7 , ,. . . . no accurate
nor surveyed any part but that immediately in the vicinity survey has
of Cape Town. They have but a very imperfect knowledge taken.
of the interior parts, nor does their government know either
the distance at which the planters live, or the extent of
their settlements ; leaving to the people themselves to frame
their accounts according to their own discretion, and to
determine by the same rule what rent they shall pay the
government. This abuse, which probably at first arose from
negligence, has at length become incapable of remedy. The
planters having been accustomed to extend their domains
without any restraint or rule, they now seem to consider
their doing so as -a right with which government is not enti
tled to interfere ; and successive governors have been too
indolent to inquire into the real state of the plantations,
and to form a proper estimate of their returns. The loss to
the revenue is not however so great as might be imagined ;

14

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

The first
range of
mountains at
the southern
extremity.

The second
range of
mountains
more re
moved from
the sea,

for a very great proportion of the country is a wild desert,
uncultivated and barren, and not fit either for the grazing
of cattle, or any purpose of husbandry. The different divi
sions of the colony are bounded by long tracts of huge
mountains, through which there are passes or kloofs, as
they are called by the Dutch, some of them capable of
being penetrated even by waggons.
The first great range of mountains situate in the southern
extremity, comprehending those from False Bay stretching to
the Cape Town, runs in a direction due east and west,
inclosing an irregular tract of land which lies between it
and the southern shores. This tract is upwards1 of fifty
miles in length and twenty in breadth, indented with bays
formed by the different promontories which stretch out
into the sea. The soil in many parts is deep and fertile,
intersected with streams of water issuing from the hills.
The face of the plain is tolerably well clothed with grass
and a variety of small > plants and shrubs. Woods of forest
trees are also interspersed in various parts; particularly
groves of the silver-oak tree. This tract is subject to
rain in the winter season when the north-west winds pre
vail ; but on account of its nearness to the sea enjoys a
temperate and healthy climate. Beyond this first range of
mountains is another called the Zwarte Bergen, or Black
Mountains, more lofty and wild than those we have de
scribed. The tracts of level country belonging to this divi
sion contain several plantations possessed by Dutch farmers.
Its surface is considerably above the other, and its ap-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 15
pearance much more varied. Some parts are disfigured by
barren hills and naked sandy plains; while in others we
find spots of well watered and fertile soil, where are situated
the residences of the colonists.
The third range of mountains contains few inhabitants Third range
of moun-
except the natives, and is known by the name of Hot- tains.
tentot Holland. It is much more elevated than the two
former, and is not so subject to rain ; it extends to a
much greater distance in length and breadth. The soil of,
this division is a hard clay mixed with sand. It produces
only a few acrid and succulent plants, and a small number
of shrubs, which have a shrivelled and withered appearance,
owing to the length of time which the country remains
without water, joined -to the parching heat of the south
east winds.
The country extending farther into the interior, and ap- The country
, ii- m the inte-
proaching Caffrana, is still more elevated, being gradually rior,
raised by regular ranges of hills, whose flat surfaces re
semble terraces successively rising above each other. The
climate here becomes subject to extreme vicissitudes ; the
frost in winter is rather severe; and the heat becomes
proportionably violent and oppressive in summer. Through
out all the southern extremity of Africa the soil towards
the north is much more barren, sandy, and rugged, than
towards the south, and east ; on which account we find -this
last part chiefly peopled by the Dutch who drove out
the natives from it, and compelled them to seek a more
secure residence amidst the inhospitable and barren re-
e4

16 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
gions to the northward. Of these unfortunate people, they
allowed to remain only a few hordes or tribes, who live
peaceably, and often assist the planters in the cultivation
of the soil, and the management of their cattle.
Government The Dutch government of the Cape divided the colony
of the coun- ......
try. into certain districts, and appointed a chief civil magistrate,
and a court composed of the country burghers, to super
intend the poliee of each, and determine all petty causes;
at the same time reserving all criminal processes of im
portance to the high court of justice at Cape Town.
its divisions. The Cape Town and all the tract of country south of it,
formed the first district; Stellenbosch, about thirty miles
east of Cape Town, formed the next ; Swellingdam was
the third, and Graff Beynet the fourth. To each of these
places are attached villages, and petty courts of justice.
Cape False Cape Falso is the southern extremity of the eastern side
of False Bay, and must be doubled by vessels in their passage
from India to Europe, which intend to touch at the Cape.
Its name is said to be derived from the following circumstance.
Although mariners on their passage from India first see the
point which forms the real Cape of Good Hope, and the
Table Land, which is the highest of the southern peninsula,
and situated immediately over Cape Town ; yet from the
course ships are obliged to steer, in order to double the Cape,
they previously find themselves under the necessity of pass
ing another point of land, which, from lying lower, was
not at first perceived, and which from this deception is
called Cape Falso, or the False Cape of Good Hope.
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 17
On approaching Cape Falso, it hides from view the real
Cape of Good Hope, as well as the Table Mountain ;
and after having passed it three or four leagues, another
intermediate promontory is discovered, which it previously
concealed from the view. This second point of land is Hang Lip
called Hang Lip Point, and is the southern extremity of
Hottentot Holland, which forms one side of the extreme
end of a very large and commodious bay, which now opens
beyond Hang Lip Point, and is called False Bay. After J^ Cape °f
passing the mouth of. this bay, which is about five leagues
across, you fall in with that promontory which forms the
real Cape of Good Hope, and which must be doubled by
all ships proceeding from False to Table Bay. When Passage from
ships round the Cape point on their way to Table Bay, Table Bay.
they first meet two smaller ones, called Chapman's and
Hout's Bay. The Table Mountain, the Lion's Plead, the
Lion's Rump, and the Tiger or Devil's Hill, successively
open to the view; and after passing the Lion's Bump or
Green Point, vessels find themselves presently in Table
Bay, which skirts the northern side of the Cape of Good
Hope. All this coast is one stupendous mass of rude, rocky, and Appearance
bold mountains ; connected together by lesser ones of various
and uncommon shapes. The tops of some rise into lofty
cones; while others, assuming a more level and unbroken
form, stretch out far beyond the others, into the sea, and
form capes or points indented with the bays I have al
ready mentioned. D

18 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
To those who have been accustomed to see only the
level shores of England, the appearance of this whole coast
is awfully grand. The immense masses which rise in many
places almost perpendicularly from the sea, and are lost
among the clouds ; the vast gullies and caverns, which seem
to sink to an immeasurable depth amidst these stupendous
mountains; the long extended ledges of rock, over which in
a few places are scattered some tufts of stunted trees and
withered shrubs ; the successive ridges of white sandy hills,
each of which appears like a valley to -the one by which it is
surmounted; the terrible surf which is continually raging on
the. beach, along which these ridges are stretched ; with
the spray which is thrown to an immense height by the
waves recoiling from the more rocky parts — all these ob
jects rushing at once upon the eye of those who" approach
the Cape, produce an effect which can be but faintly con
veyed by description.
This surf Avhich is driven towards the land with such
fury, produces a phenomenon in the sandy deserts, even far
The spray of removed from the sea. In the time of the violent south-
the sea car
ried far into east winds it is carried to a great distance into the coun-
the country. . .
try, presenting the appearance of a thick mist. It gradually
quits the atmosphere, lighting on the trees and herbs, and
Collects and lining the surface of the sands. On the commencement of
«f salt water, the rainy season it is again dissolved; and being carried
off by the streams which are then formed, it is lodged in
a number of small lakes, which, by a natural process, in
time become absolute salt pans ; and thence it is that the

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 19
Dutch colonists collect the salt which supplies their coil-
sumption. A person walking on the sandy beach during the
continuance of the south-east winds, so as to be exposed
to its influence, soon finds his cloaths covered and inc rusted
with saline particles; while his skin is quite parched up,
and his lips begin to feel their effects very sensibly.
False Bay arid Table Bay are the only ones where ships Harbours ,
' -i /-~(i where ships
anchor on this side the peninsula. Chapman's and Hout's anchor.
Bay are too small, and too much exposed to the violence
of the winds, which blow in eddies and currents down from
the mountains. A ship putting into either of them, will
find herself every moment exposed to the different shiftings
of these winds, which are perpetually counteracted in their
descent by opposing currents. As the beach, however, in Military
these bays is sandy, there are military posts established, pors'
with batteries to prevent an enemy from landing and ap
proaching Cape Town, by the side of Tiger Hill and the back
of Table Mountain. They are of no other use but to pre
vent the landing of an enemy's boats, as no other inhabi
tants but the troops quartered there reside at those bays,
the soil being uninviting, and the way from thence to Cape
Town by land extremely steep and rugged.
The great chain of mountains which stretches along this The moun-
shore, and forms this vast promontory of the Cape, is con
nected with tbe interior of Africa by low flat tracts and
ridges of sand, collected together by the violence of the winds,
which sweep unrestrained over these dreary wastes. There
is little verdure to be seen on those vast masses which
d 2

20 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
form the chain of mountains ; the few small trees and plants
peculiar to this part of the world, which grow here and
there amidst the barren and rocky soil, seem stunted and
withered, being parched up by the violence of the winds
and the great length of time from one season to the other
without rain ; a genial shower, during the summer months,
Tbe soil in rarely happening in that quarter. In the mountainous
ofthTmoun- parts contiguous to Cape Town, the soil is a hard clay,
tracte!* mixed with a white glistening sand, which is brought up
from the low tracts by the south-east winds. Some grass,
and a few acrid plants, are nearly all the produce of this
unpromising s ; yet still there are spots on the sides of
these elevations which receive cultivation, and produce
vegetables and fruits ; although great labour is required for
this purpose, and these spots must all be fenced in and
well defended from the winds by thick hedges of myrtle,
small oak, or other trees.
it* produce. The low marshy spots scattered in various places round
Cape Town, which have streams of water running through
them, with a deep and rich soil, produce a vast number of
succulent plants, flowery herbs, sweet grasses, and various
kinds of heath ; which have afforded much room for the
enterprise of botanists. Wherever these productive spots
are found, they are cultivated with great care by the Dutch,
and are converted into vineyards, gardens, and fields, co
vered Avith all kinds of vegetable productions, by which the
town and shipping, are abundantly supplied at a very cheap
rate. 5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 21
The profusion of plants which are spread over some parts
of these sandy tracts, and seem peculiarly adapted to that
soil, cannot fail to recal to the observer's mind, that wis
dom with which every part of the creation is adjusted to
the most beneficent purposes. Were it not for these spon
taneous productions, the cattle must often be exterminated
by hunger, amidst those tracts which for the most part refuse
the culture of man, while the climate in other instances so
often proves fatal to his labours. To the traveller these
shrubberies afford shelter from the clouds of sand which fly at
a certain season, and otherwise would prove altogether insuf
ferable; and those who have never traversed these Avide and
waste plains of barren sand, will gratefully acknowledge the
relief to the eye and the mind which is afforded by a re
freshing spot of verdure, covered Avith herbs and fknvers.
The numerous birds which inhabit this space, derive their
food from the berries and fruits belonging to those plants;
while the more substantial ones are used for fuel, an article
iextremely scarce and dear about the Cape.

22 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER II.
Journal of Occurrences, during the Authors first Visit to the
Cape — Taking of the Dutch Fleet at Saldahna Bay — Des-
scription of that Bay.
J-N the last chapter I have given a general description of
the Cape of Good Hope, and the first appearances which it
presents to the eye of a stranger. I shall now introduce
a journal of my transactions during the first visit w'hich I
paid to this colony ; not from any idea that these circum
stances can in any degree interest the public, from any re
lation which they bear to myself, but because they may serve
to throAv some light on the state of the colony, and the
public eA^ents which took place at that period. Such de
tails, although to some they may appear too minute to
be interesting, contain many particulars which serve to give a
more complete idea of the stuation of a country, but Avhich
must necessarily have been omitted in a general description.
The author's On the first of August 1796, Ave came in sight of Table
first arrival at ^ °
the Cape. Land, being, as I have already mentioned, the hiohest
point, and the first which is seen on the passage from
Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. It being late in the
evening, and the weather at the same time A^ery boisterous,
our commodore, Captain Osburn, of the Trident, would
not venture in, but lay-to till next next morning, when
we came to anchor in False Bay, after a pleasant passage
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 23
of eleven Aveeks from England. Here Ave found Admiral
Elphinstone with a squadron o^ six- sail of the line and
three frigates, besides eight outward bound East Indianien,
who were waiting for convoy.
This fleet of Indiamen had a more tedious passage than
that to which avc belonged, having been sixteen weeks on
their voyage. They brought out the 25th light dragoons,
and the 33d and 80th regiments of foot, which were dis
embarked for some time and encamped on the heights above
Simon's Town. The 27th light dragoons, and five compa
nies of the 19th regiment, to which I belonged, were in
the fleet convoyed by Commodore Osburn. The remain
ing five companies of my regiment were on board the
Woodford and Dublin East Indiamen, Avhich parted com
pany the day before Ave made the land, and proceeded
without stopping, with three others, on their voyage to the
East Indies. As the object of putting into the Cape was
merely to obtain Avater and refreshments, which began to
be required on account of the number of troops on board,
our stay .here was intended to be limited to a week or
ten days, being the period in Avhich these necessaries might
be procured ; after which all the Indiamen, with the regi
ments I mentioned, were without delay to prosecute their
voyage. Our commanding officer, Colonel Dalrymple, gave
leave to his officers to pay a visit to Cape Town, which
was at the distance of twenty-four miles from the place
where our squadron lay ; and this permission Avas so regulat
ed that one half should be absent at a time, and tbe in-

24 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
tefval so divided, as that all of us might spend a fevv days
on shore. A very unexpected occurrence, however, ren
dered our stay much longer than was originally intended.
The particulars of this eArent will be seen in the following
journal Avhich I kept from the day of my arrival in False
Bay. On Tuesday, August the second, came to anchor in False
Bay ; went on board Admiral Elphinstone's ship, the Mon
arch, where I expected to meet my brother, Avho Avas a
lieutenant belonging to her; but in this I was disappoint
ed, he having been taken prisoner on his passage from In
dia to the Cape, in charge of a prize, some time back,
«
by part of Admiral Sercy's squadron, and carried to the
Mauritius ; the Sphyrix sloop of war narrowly escaped being
taken at the same time.
August 3. Landed at Simon's Town to prepare for a journey to
Cape Town ; a detachment of the 78th regiment Avas quar
tered here, under the command of Major Monnypenny,
besides the regiments before-mentioned encamped close by,
Avaiting till the ships were ready to sail for India.
Tavo other officers and myself proceeded on foot, as
horses could not be obtained. When Ave arrived at Mu
senberg we found the grenadiers of the 78th, 84th, 95th,
and 98th regiments at this post, and six miles further on,
at Wineberg, where we slept, the light companies of those
regiments; the battalion ccmpinies, Avith the 28th light
dragoons, forming the garrison at Cape Town. We got
beds and refreshments at Dutch boor's house.

-» 4.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 25
Arrived at Cape Town ; heard a rumour of a Dutch fleet August 5.
being seen near Saldahna Bay.
Remained at Cape Town. Viewed different parts of the  6,
toAvn and its environs. Got comfortably lodged at a Dutch
gentleman's house, at the rate of three rix-dollars a day.
In consequence of intelligence having been received of
nine Dutch men of war being off Saldahna Bay, General
Craig the commander in chief ordered all officers belonging
to the regiments at Simon's toAvn, to proceed immediately
to join their respective corps; and at the same time sent
an express to Admiral Elphinstone* to put to sea Avith the
fleet under his command, in pursuit of the Dutch, Avhich
he did that same day. The grenadiers and light compa
nies stationed at Musenberg and Wineberg, marched into
Cape Town, and, without halting, followed their regiments
to Saldahna Bay. General Craig took with him a detach
ment of the 28th dragoons and artillery, the 78th, 80th,
and part of the 84th regiments; leaving the 95th and 98th
to garrison the Cape Town, under the command of Major
General Doyle, who volunteered his services ; for he Avas
on board the fleet merely as a passenger, on his Avay to
India. I, and three more officers of the 19th regiment,
having Avith some difficulty procured a waggon, set off for
Simon's Bay, and got on ship-board that night, very much
fatigued by the bad road and jolting of our clumsy vehi
cle. The 27th light dragoons, and five companies of the 19th,  7.
regiment, disembarked; the 25th light dragoons and de-
E

26 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
August s. tacliments of the 78th and 33d regiments, were ordered to
Cape Town, from whence they Avere to proceed after Ge
neral Craig. The 27th light dragoons relieved the 25th
in camp ; and the 19th and 78th regiments, excepting a
captain and sixty men, Avere sent forward to occupy the
pass Musenberg, and all the flank companies pushed
for Avar d to Avar ds Saldahna Bay.
 9- The movement of the troops continued ; tAvelve sail of
Indiamen in Simon's bay moored close in shore in the form
of a half moon, and being flanked by the batteries ashore,
presented a formidable appearance ; and rendered an attack
extremely difficult and hazardous to the Dutch, in case
they should have escaped our fleet, and steered for this
bay, which it Avas thought might possibly happen.
 n. Positive intelligence [arrived that the Dutch Fleet Avas
at anchor in Saldahna Bay, where they had landed five
hundred men, on an island situated near its entrance;
and Avere busily employed in throwing up fortifications
and watering their ships.
 12. The English Fleet which had been out some days with
out meeting the Dutch, from the imperfect intelligence
the Admiral had received of their real destination, came
into the bay in the evening and anchored. They had en
countered very rough weather all the time they were out;
and the Avind, Avhich blew strong from the north west,
Avas against their making Saldahna Bay. They had sus
tained some injury in their masts and rigging. The Tri
dent struck on a sunken rock, while coming into the bay,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, n
and iiarroAvly escaped foundering; she Avas then going at
the rate of nine knots an hour.
The Admiral who had received an express to inform August 13.
him of the enemy being at anchor, accompanied Avith
orders to go out again immediately, found it impossible
to do so, it bleAv so exceedingly strong; but he employed
this interval in repairing the damages the fleet had sustained.
The Tremendous of 74 guns, Admiral Pringie's ship, Avas
Avith much difficulty and by great exertion saAred from
running ashore, having parted repeatedly from her anchors.
The weather being moderate, the Admiral and the  1*.
whole fleet got under weigh, and Avas out of sight toAvards
evening. A detachment of the 19th Avas ordered to march
to Cape Town, and from thence to Saldahna Bay, Avith
provisions, &c. while the rest of the regiment received
orders to march in the morning.
The 19th regiment marched for Cape Toavh, and took  15.
up our captain's detachment posted at Musenberg, Avhich
Avas afterwards occupied by a troop of the 27th dragoons.
Halted that night at Wineberg.
Marched into Cape ToAvn, took possession of the bar  16.
racks of the 80th, and did the duty there with the other
troops, which, on account of the numerous posts round the
town, and the number of guards required to occupy them,
was very severe. General Craig with the army, arriAred on
the 14th at Saldahna Bay, having previously pushed on
a detachment of dragoons and light troops; the Dutch
sent at different times officers and parties on shore to
e 2

28 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
procure information from their friends, but those parties
were all taken by our advanced detachment. The enemy
found themselves miserably disappointed in all their ob
jects. They had imagined that the English fleet was in
India,' or at least cruizing off the Isle of France. They
had also expected to be joined by a French squadron and
troops from the Mauritius and Batavia; and Avith this
reinforcement they had intended to surprise the Cape,
having heard it was but Aveakly garrisoned by the English,
and also calculating upon the assistance of a strong party
of Dutch from the interior, and a powerful diversion in
their favour by the inhabitants of Cape Town. But even
had they been joined by the expected reinforcement, their
designs Avould iioav have been rendered abortive ; for the
English fleet Avas both strong and well manned, and by the
detention of the regiments bound to India, upwards of
three thousand British troops Avere added to the force al
ready stationed in this colony. These last circumstances
were most critically fortunate, for the regiments in garri
son at the Cape, Avere barely sufficient for the proper de
fence of the toAvn ; and could with difficulty have furnished
an army to oppose the joint efforts of the French and
Dutch. The plan which Avas formed by General Craig
oil this occasion, was as remarkable for the judgment with
Avhich it Avas formed, as the ability displayed in its exe
cution. Before I proceed to relate the circumstances which fol-
loAved, it may afford a gratification to my readers to know

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 2.9
the situation and nature of that place, Avherc the British
and Dutch forces were now met.
Saldahna Bay is reckoned to be at the distance of about
eighteen or tAventy leagues from Table Bay, in the direc
tion of north by Avest, and lies in latitude 35° 10' south,
and 18° east longitude. It is a secure harbour for the
greater part of the year, and affords conveniences superior
to either Table or False Bay, for the laying clown, repair
ing, and refitting of. ships. The north part of this bay is
generally distinguished by the name of Hootjes Bay, which
is very secure and commodious, being land-locked and well
sheltered, and affording anchorage to large ships. This
part of the bay is skirted by rocks, Avhich occasionally jut
out into the water, and form small basins, in which the
water is deep, and as smooth as a mill pond. Ships
might be hoAre doAvn along side or close in Avith the rocks
here in four or five fathoms water. Saldahna Bay, in its
fullest extent, is about five leagues across in the direction
of the coast, from north-east to south-west. The entrance
is from the north side close to a ridge of hills mode
rately high, but barren and uncultivated. In this entrance
are three rocky and sandy islands, one lying* directly in
its channel or mouth. It was this last on which Admiral
Lucas landed his men, and began to raise fortifications.
These three islands if fortified to the degree of Avhich they
are rendered capable by nature, Avould completely defend
the entrance of the bay against an enemy's fleet. The
Dutch Admiral had not the means, nor perhaps the skill,

30 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
to render them strong enough to oppose the entrance of
Admiral Elphinstone ; nor did he indeed attempt to fortify
any but the one above-mentioned. ToAvards the southern
extremity and Avithin the bay, are tAvo islands, called
Schapen and MeAven ; and between those two is a narroAV
passage into the south angle of Saldahna Bay, which here
forms a kind of lake Avhere small craft to any number
might lie as securely as in dock. On the north side of
those two islands there is good anchorage for large ships.
Here it Avas that Admiral Lucas lay at anchor when the
British fleet came to attack him, and hemmed him in by
draAving up in line of battle across the narroAV part of the
bay, so that it Avas impossible for the Dutch fleet to at
tempt getting out.
The scarcity of Avood and Avater in the neighbourhood of
.Saldahna Bay must, unless these disadvantages can by any
means be removed, ahvays render its advantages as a com
modious and safe harbour abortive. Although ships some
times touch here, and can remain all seasons of the year
to be clocked and repaired, it cannot be thought of as a
general rendezvous for Avant of those essential articles. The
Dutch neArer Avished to remove these disadvantages eA?en had
it been in their poAver. It Avas far from their intention,
and indeed directly opposite to the spirit of their policy to
encourage the Aressels of any nation, or even their own, to
stop at this place. Their East-India company was so ex
tremely aAraricious that, in order not to lose the trifling
revenue arising from the anchorage money which they ex-
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 31
acted from vessels touching at the Cape, they made a law
to prohibit them from being supplied with any refresh
ments at any of the other harbours, such as Saldahna,
Plettenberg, and De la Goe Bay ; and Avith the same vieAV
they so far neglected the improvement of these stations
that ships Avere compelled of necessity to put in at False
or Table Bay to procure supplies, Avhenever they found
their stock of provisions insufficient to carry them to the
end of a long voyage. In consequence of this policy a pre
carious, temporary, and scanty supply of Avood and Avater,
is all that writh a great deal of trouble can at present be
procured at Saldahna Bay. Water might to a certain de
gree be procured from the adjacent country amidst the
sand hills and vallies that surround the bay. A number of
shrubby plants also groAV there, whose long and thick roots,
which are easily pulled out of the sand, might serve for
fuel. The sides of the hills in several places are coArered
Avith plants bearing fruit and low trees ; and the flat tracts
at some distance from the shore frequently present forests
half buried in sand. The general face of the surrounding
country is flat, and intersected occasionally with hills;
and like Musenberg and Wineberg, it forms a continued
shrubbery. The soil is throughout loose and sandy ; in
some parts however it is fertile, producing Avheat, barley,
and vegetables, Avhich groAV astonishingly Avell, although
groAving in sheer sand. Had it been Avell planted Avith
timber some years ago, Saldahna ' Bay and the adjacent
country Avould have afforded solid advantages to Cape

32 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
ToAvn, the passage by sea being much shorter and not so
dangerous or difficult as either from Plettenberg or De la
Goe Bay. The want of good water is the chief misfor
tune ; nor has any been as yet discovered near the beach
of Saldahna Bay, nor for a considerable extent around ;
and on this account that tract is thinly inhabited. Springs
indeed have been found in several spots, but they are all
strongly impregnated with salt. In Ceylon and many parts
of India, I have seen the natives scoop holes with their
hands in the sand close to the sea, and by this means
obtain excellent Avater in a few minutes. Our soldiers,
at the suggestion of officers who had served in the East-
Indies, employed the same method at Saldahna Bay, and
succeeded in procuring water, though in no great quantity
nor very pure ; yet still it was not unfit to be drunk. I
do not believe it ever occurred to the Dutch to obtain it
in this manner. It has been imagined that water might be
procured from the White Rock or Witte Klip, on one of
these islands at the entrance of the bay, although it would
require much expense and labour to make an incision into
the rock for this purpose. Colonel Gordon, and others of
their engineers, laid a plan before the Dutch government
to turn the course of a deep river which passes through
the country within a few miles of the sea into a parallel
direction Avith the coast; but, with the usual narrow policy
of that people, it Avas rejected. Had this scheme been exe
cuted, shipping might have been supplied abundantly Avith
water; and it would also have soon become more easy to
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 33
procure the other necessaries of life. The farmers, who
reside a little Avay inland, breed a good deal of cattle,
and sow a considerable quantity of corn and vegetables-
The soil becomes more rich and fertile as it is removed
to a greater distance from the shore. Game is in great
plenty ; and the rivers abound Avith that enormous quad
ruped the Hippopotamus.
Such is a short description of the bay into which the
Dutch Admiral had conducted his fleet. It afforded a
station undoubtedly of great security from the winds and
the waves ; but a more formidable enemy, from Avhich there
was no means of escape, presented itself to him both by
land and sea, in British valour.
The Dutch Admiral, on discovering our troops who had August 17.
now all arriAred, but had been hitherto carefully concealed till
the artillery was come up, and having received certain infor
mation of the near approach of our fleet, sent the Havoc
sloop of war close in shore. She fired several shot at our
men, but without effect; for only one shot took place,
which hit a musket on the shoulder of a soldier of the
84th regiment, and broke it in two, but without doing
him any material injury. General Craig, in order to re
turn the compliment, ordered Captain Robertson, of the
artillery, to bring his guns to bear on her, and laid a bet
Avith the Captain that he Arauld not hit her from the dis
tance at Avhich she lay ; but Captain Robertson so well
calculated his aim, that he struck her with the first shot,
F

34 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
upon which she hauled out from shore and did not at
tempt to return again.
About two hours afterwards the English fleet hove in sight,
and Avere discovered by us from the eminences and signal
posts. They were at length descried by the Dutch, Avho at
first imagined them to be their long looked for and anxi
ously expected friends the French; but were soon unde
ceived, when to their great surprize the English fleet came
to anchor outside of them across the neck of the bay, and
drew up in line of battle. They now perceived that they
Avere completely shut in, and that no chance Avas left for
one of their ships to escape. The Dutch officers had some
idea of running their vessels ashore to prevent their falling'
into our hands in a perfect state, and then to attempt to
make their own escape into the country. General Craig,
however, suspecting they might have such intentions, sent
an officer with a flag of truce to inform the Dutch Ad
miral, that if they attempted to injure the ships he would
allow them no quarter. It blew so fresh this evening that
Admiral Elphinstone attempted nothing, but prepared his
fleet for action in case the Dutch should resist.
August is. Our Admiral sent a flag of truce to the Dutch Admi
ral Lucas, requiring him to surrender without delay. Re
sistance or escape were hoav equally impracticable ; and
therefore after a few ineffectual requests to obtain one of
the frigates to carry him and his officers to Europe, he
surrendered at discretion. On our boats boarding the

THE GAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 35
enemy's vessels, our officers found the Dutch sailors in a
state of mutiny, and in the act of laying violent hands on
their oflicers, towards vvhoin they had lost all sense of respect.
Several of them trampled on their own colours, and tore
them to pieces ; and our people were obliged to interfere
in order to rescue the unfortunate Dutch officers from de
struction. The Dutch ships were in a very bad condition
for fighting, the creAvs Avere extremely disaffected, being
mostly composed of requisition-men forced into the ser
vice. Few were natives of Holland, the far greater part
being Hanoverians, Prussians, and Germans ; and in addition
to the evils to be apprehended from this mixture of fo
reigners, they were almost all raAv and inexperienced, both
sailors and soldiers. Admiral Lucas remonstrated Avith the
Dutch government on their sending out this fleet so badly
victualled and appointed ; but he received for ansAver, that
he should lose his head, if he did not immediately proceed
on his voyage Avith the squadron. On their arrival at Sal
dahna Bay, they had not three days wood or water on
board ; even during the voyage they had but a very scanty
allowance of provisions ; many of them seemed quite happy
on being taken by us, and several entered immediately
into our service. Those who did so were distributed on
board the East India ships, each receiving a proportion of
them in lieu of the English seamen taken out of them by
Admiral Elphinstone, to complete the complements of his
fleet. When our Commodore Osburn, of the Trident, went on
f 2

36 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
board one of the Dutch ships, and examined the charts
and log books, he found to his great surprise, that for
the last three weeks, before we arrived at the Cape, the
Dutch fleet was never more than twelve hours sail, or
twenty-five leagues from us, both fleets tacking at the
same time, and keeping the same course, they being that
distance to the Avestward of us. During the voyage Ave
saw some of their ships, and chased them a whole day;
they also discovered us, but bore aAAray. The day Ave made
Cape Land, Ave obsenred three or four sail to the westward
at a great distance, and thought they Avere the English
fleet cruizing in those latitudes. Although they at the
same time discovered our fleet, they made no attempt to
bear down upon us ; as their Admiral had received positive
orders not to chase any ship, but to proceed direct to
Saldahna Bay. Had they fallen in with our fleet at sea,
they might have captured some of us, as we had only one
line of battle ship and seven sail of Indiamen; five of
which left us the day before we saAV the land. The Dutch
fleet consisted of the Dortrecht of 68 guns, Admiral Lucas,
Van Tromp 64, Revolutionaire 64, Castor 40, Brave 40,
Syren 24, Havoc 24, Bellona 24, and the Maria transport,
armed en flute, laden with military stores, and carrying 40
guns. The English fleet which assisted at their capture in
Saldahna bay, was composed of the Monarch 74, Admiral
Elphinstone; Tremendous 74, Admiral Pringle ; America
64, Commodore Blanket; Ruby 64, Captain Hardy ; Stately
64, Captain  ; Trident 64, Captain Osburn; Jupiter

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 37
50, Captain Losac ; Crescent 36, Captain Buller ; Moselle
20, Captain  ; Sphinx 20, Captain  ; Rattlesnake
and Echo of 16 guns each. From the 18th to the 23d
nothing worthy of notice occurred at Cape Toavii.
General Doyle, in consequence of the victory over the August 23.
Dutch, drew out the garrison on the parade in front of the
castle, to fire a feu de joie. The Dutch Avere exceedingly
mortified at the capture 6f their fleet; for a strong party
was ready to act, if occasion offered, against us ; and the
planters in the country were only waiting for the landing
of the Dutch troops, in order to join them. But the pru
dent and vigorous measures of General Craig, and the Avise
precautions which General Doyle took for the defence of
the Cape Town and its neighbourhood, prevented any such
attempt from being made by the disaffected. The cannon
of the castle, and the different batteries at each end of
•the toAvn, wrere turned upon it, and ready to play at a
moment's warning, in case of any commotion.
General Craig arrived and Avas received Avith military  26.
honours by the troops, who were draAvn out for the pur
pose, and the officers afterwards waited on him at the
castle. General Craig reviewed the 19th regiment on the grand  27.
parade, and was very much pleased with their appearance;
he gave us orders to march next morning to False Bay,
to embark for the East Indies. The 25th dragoons marched
this day to Simon's ToAvn to embark for the same desti
nation. The 33d and 80th regiments Avere ordered to re-
4

f.R THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,
main at the Cape to strengthen the garrison, which, on
account of the number of prisoners, required a great force
to place it in a state of security. This evening presented
to our countrymen a most gratifying spectacle, the English
fleet bringing their prizes into Table Bay. The appearance
they presented Avas majestic ; a strong breeze carried them
in at the rate of nine knots an hour, and they all in a
regular succession came to anchor before us. The triumph
conspicuous among our countrymen on this occasion, could
only be equalled by the shame and disappointment Avhich
the Dutch inhabitants appeared sensibly to feel, on seeing
English colours flying oA^er their OAvn.
August as. Marched to Wineberg ; halted there that night very much
fatigued, as we had experienced a dreadfully wet day, and
been able to procure hardly any thing to eat. On our
arrival here, Ave found nothing but Avet rushes to lie on all
nightj and Avere consequently obliged to sleep on this un
comfortable bed, in our drenched clothes.
 29. Marched to Simon's Toavii and embarked, glad of o-ettin«
on board to a comfortable dinner, and our OAvn beds, after
a fast of nearly three days, and a fatiguing march through
heavy sands. The 25th dragoons had embarked the day
before. From this to the 20th of September Ave remained
at anchor in Simon's Bay, the different ships being busily
employed in taking in Avater and provisions, and preparing
for their voyage to India. During this time, having little
duty to attend to, I every day amused myself on shore,
in shooting and fishing parties; and made daily excursions

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 39
into different parts of the country. I took an opportunity
of again seeing Cape Town, and of visiting the vineyards
and wine plantations of Constantia. In these excursions I
collected many materials for this work, which Avill be present
ed in their proper place.
A signal was made by the oldest captain of the India Sept. 10,
fleet (Captain Strover, of the Essex), Avho acted as Com
modore, to Aveigh anchor and put to sea. About five o'clock
that evening, having proceeded about tAVO leagues out of
this bay, the William Pitt, Indiaman, running foul of the
Manship, carried aAvay her boAvsprit; upon which the Com
modore made a signal to return.
We remained here six days longer, whilst the William
Pitt was repairing her damages. Although Ave at first look
ed upon it as a disappointment, it proA^ed in the end a
fortunate circumstance, as next day there came on a fu
rious gale of Avind, which continued to blow Avith great
violence for three days, and might have damaged the fleet,
had we been at sea.
The ships being all ready, the Commodore again made  iu.
the signal to get under weigh and proceed on our voyage
to Madras. This evening Ave lost sight of the Cape, and
made the land at Madras on the 14th of November.
On my return to Europe from India, in the year 1800,
the ship in which I Avas passenger put into Table Bay on the
1st of December, to water and lay in stores ; expecting also
#o find a convoy ready to depart for England. Our intention
at that time Avas to remain there only ten days. On the
5

40 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
8th of December the Arethusa, frigate, Capta inWooUey,
arrived from St. Helena, to convoy the trade from the Cape
to England. There we had to remain waiting for the In
diamen Avhich were daily coming in, as well as the govern
ment store ships, till the 14th of January, 1801, when we
weighed anchor from Table Bay ; and on the 28th Janua
ry made St. Helena, where we continued till . the 6th o*
"February. During the time I remained at the Cape, having no mi
litary duty to perform, I had an opportunity of visiting
several parts of the surrounding country, as well as the
Adllages of Stellenbosch, Witte, Boem, and others at some
distance. The observations which I made during this and
my former visit to this colony, Avill be found in the fol-
loAving chapters.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 41

CHAPTER III.
False Bay — Proper Season for anchoring there — Rocks — Seal
Island — Beautiful Prospect from the Bay — Simons Town —
Public Buildings — Batteries— Customs in the Dutch Time.
1 Have already given a general geographical description of
the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. I shall iioav pro-
. ceed to give a more particular account of those places which,
from their situation and advantages, have the greatest claim
on the public attention.
False Bay is so called from Cape False. The promon- False Bay.
tory of land which stretches to a great distance into the
sea, forms an immense bay. This bay is not properly the
harbour, or place where ships come to anchor, on this side
the peninsula, but is rather the outer road of another smaller
one, close in with the shore, called Simon's Bay, from the Simon's Bay.
name of the town close by. It is only in this inner space Best season
that ships can remain with any security during the north- ingtiiereT
west winds, Avhich prevail from March till September.
During the other months of the year, when the south-east
Avinds prevail, even 'Simon's Bay is unable to afford any se
curity; vessels therefore at this period go round to Table
Bay, which is equally secure in that season as Simon's Bay
Avas in the other. In the winter, Avhich is from March to .
September, all vessels put into False or Simon's Bay, and the
little town close by is, at that period, much frequented.
G

42 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
This bay, formed by the most southern point of the
southern extremity of the Cape, lies in latitude 34° 9' south,
and 18° 32' east longitude. Ships on their voyage to India,
Avhich are under the necessity of taking in Avater and pro
visions at the Cape, prefer stopping at False Bay, as more
favourable to their making their passage ; and, on return
ing to Europe, the same reason induces them to put into
Table Bay. From the indented shape of Simon's Bay,
which is almost surrounded by exceedingly high hills, that
cover it from the violence of the winds, yessels are in per
fect security there, except when a violent south-east Avind
Woavs in shore, and can anchor within a quarter of a mile
Rocks in or less of Simon's ToAvn. At the entrance of this bav are
False Bay. . J
two remarkable rocks, of a very curious appearance, called
the Roman Rocks and Noah's Ark ; on the latter of Avhich
is placed a flag staff. Happily for vessels Avhich intend to
moor here, -those rocks are so situated as not materially
to obstruct them in their, working in and out. In the
outer part of False Bay, some sunken rocks have been
discovered by the English. It Avas on one of these that the
Trident struck in 1796, when she was so much damaged in her
keel, and otherwise injured by the shock, that fears were en
tertained for her safety. It Avas supposed the Dutch knevv
of this rock, as it had been laid down in an old chart of
theirs, but they would not inform us of it. Lord Keith
had a buoy placed on it to prevent accidents in fu- '
ture. It is but justice to this excellent officer to remark,
that he spared no pains to sound and explore both False

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 4-3
and Table Bay, whilst he remained on this station ; and
he was the first who had a ship hove doAvn and thorough
ly repaired in False Bay, instead of sending her at a great
expense and loss of time to Bombay to be docked, Avhich
is generally done Avith the men of war on service in these
latitudes; unless in the alternative of their being recalled to
Europe. A small barren island, called Seal Island, lies between Seal island.
Hanglip Point and False Bay, within tAvo leagues of the
shore. It is resorted to only by fishermen to catch seals,
of which they procure a great number throughout all this
bay. Abundance of fish of various kinds is got here ; par
ticularly about the Roman Rocks and Noah's Ark.
Immediately on a ship coming to anchor, she is sur
rounded by boats, laden Avith fish, vegetables, and fruit,
which the slaves of the Dutch colonists come to sell for
their masters. All kinds of fish peculiar to. the Cape are Different
found in this bay ; many of them excellent and very agree- found to this
able to the palate. The most common is the Roman fish, ay'
so called from its being caught about the rock of that
name : it is of a deep rose colour, and of the perch kind.
The other species of fish found here are, the red and white
Steenbrassen, also of the perch kind, and large and good :
the Hottentot fish, Avhich derives its name from its dirty
brown colour, resembling the skin of that people : the sil
ver fish, somewhat shaped like our turbot, and with
its scales shining like silver: the strompneus, which has
black and white spots down the middle and sides : the klip
g 2

44 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
or rock fish, with a coarse scaly skin, of a tolerable size,
and very good Avhen fried : the harder, someAvhat of the
flavour and appearance of our herring, but thicker : the
schomber, or mackerel, which come at certain seasons
into the bay, in large shoals, pursued by A^oracious ene
mies ; also the schomber, or horse-mackerel, a species much
inferior to ours : the speering eel, a small fish, Avith white
clear shining spots : the springer, a flat fish, of a heaAy, fat,
luscious quality, particularly Avell adapted for the palate of
a Dutchman : gurnets and soles resembling ours : skate, ray
fish, star fish, and a species of the electrical torpedo : the
bagre, a very bad species of fish, and supposed to be of
a poisonous quality: dolphins and bonetas are sometimes
caught ; a species of dog fish is found, A^ery like the shark,
which latter fish is abundant on the coast ; seals are in great
Whales plenty. Whales often come into the bay, and frequently
caugtuhere shike with violence against the ships at anchor, Avhen they
are often pursued and taken. After a violent storm, it is
not uncommon to see one or more of those immense ani
mals lying exhausted on the beach ; it is also customary
Avith them, Avhen wounded in those latitudes, to make for
the shore, as I have had an opportunity of observing in se
veral instances. Among the shell fish, are oysters, cray fish,
small crabs, muscles, shrimps, the sea nautilus, and many
others. The shells of these, with other marine productions,
are often collected by the colonists, when they afford the
only kind of lime used here. Fishing is, a principal amuse-
ment with the passengers on board the ships that stop here,
2 ,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 45
who are not taken up Avith more material avocations.
Whilst at anchor in this bay, I was often employed in this
manner. The seals Avere so numerous and troublesome,
that I was frequently obliged to strike at them with the
boat-hook, for they would fearlessly come up close along
side, as if they Avould enter the boat. I hoAvever found the
amusement of going. out to fish to be attended with some
risk, . as the thick and heavy mists often come on so sud
denly, that Ave could scarcely find our way back to the ship,
though but a little Avay off.
That amphibious species equally between fisk aud fowl, Water fowl
in great
called penguins or puffados, are in such numbers, that when abundance.
on the wing, and -mixed Avith the flocks of- divers, ducks,
cormorants, albatrosses, gulls, and Ararious other aquatic
birds, they absolutely darken the sky, and present au ap
pearance altogether astonishing to a srYanger on his first
arrival. They keep hovering and flying Avithout intermis
sion around the ships at anchor in the bay, and may be
easily killed from the deck by flinging a stick or stone
among the surrounding ..flocks. In consequence of a fatal
accident which happened the day I arrived, from an officer
shooting at a flock of those birds, positive orders Avere
issued to prevent any one from firing/ from, on board or iu
tlie bay. The prospect which meets the eye, on coming to Beautiful
anchor in Simon's Bay, is extensive, diversified, and at the'shipptog"
once grand and beautiful. The exceedingly high- and steep m ''St *V'
hills reaching close to the shore, which surround the greater
part of the bay, seem to the European passenger even

46' THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
more lofty, more near, and . more awfully grand, after a
long voyage, during Avhich nothing has met his eye but the
level surface of an extended Avatery plain, and nothing
bounded his view but tlie uninterrupted circle of the hori
zon. On turning the eye toAvards one side of the bay, the
little town at the foot of one of those hills, the houses
scattered up and down the declivity, and gradually rising
one above the other, the Company's gardens contiguous to
the toAvn, the landing place, the sandy beach and white
road leading to Musenberg, the form of the bay on this
side resembling a crescent, with the large flat surrounding
plain bounded by the Musenberg hills, afford a prospect
Avhich to me at least conveyed the most pleasing sensa-
Viewofthe tions. On the other side of the bay a still nobler pros-
country .
round. pect opens to the vieAV. Close to the shore appear several
houses, plantations, and cultivated fields belonging to the
Dutch farmers and burghers, over-topped by the green
sheapen-berghen or sheep hills. Above them rise the
amazingly high, steep, and wild mountains of Hottentot
Holland, Avhich in the finest and clearest weather are covered
Avith snow and passing clouds. To the east a view is
opened of the more distant Caffree country, Avhose moun
tains towering to a yet superior height, of a bright copper
colour, close the sublime prospect. Such is the sur
rounding country of Simon's Bay as it appears to the Euro
pean passenger before he has yet come to land ; nor do
these objects appear less striking to him Avhen he has had
an opportunity of examining them more minutely,
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 47
From the station where ships anchor you row in a few Landing
minutes to Simon's Town, and land without any risk or
obstruction on the sandy beach, or at the pier or plat
form, Avhich is carried out several yards into the sea on
large piles of timber, for the more convenient loading and
unloading of boats and small craft. Close to this pier is a Reservoir..
most excellent reservoir of water, conveyed in pipes from
the springs in the neighbouring hills, which afford a con
stant supply. It was constructed by the Dutch East-India
Company for the convenience of watering their ships. There
are also along the beach several small streams and springs
of water, issuing from the different hills and running into
the bay, where boats frequently take up water for their ,
ships when the reservoir is too much occupied ; for every
one must Avait his turn at. the cistern, and by this regular
mode the process of watering is much more easily and
speedily accomplished.
Simon's Toavii, if it can be called a town, is pleasantly Simon's
situated on the sea side, under a very steep hill. It consists
of about tAventy houses rather scattered, and irregularly
placed along the curve or bend of the shore. A few are
built on the declivity of the hill, where the slope is some
times interrupted by a gentle SAvell. Most of the houses
are tolerably large and Avell built, and are inhabited by
Dutchmen, either occasional residents or natives of the
place. A part of the buiklings here Avere erected by the Public build-
in E"s
Dutch East-India Company, at their OAvn expense, for the
use of their ships trading to and from India, and consist of

48 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
a long range of store liouses close by the wharf or landing
place. The erecting of these buildings Avas occasioned by an
accident Avhich took place many years ago. A dreadful
storm arose in Table Bay at a season when least to be
expected. A great part of the shipping lying there Avas in
' consequence destroyed, and the rest obliged to put into
False Bay to refit. The magazines then erected at Simon's
Toavii for their accommodation haAre since been employed
for refitting and supplying vessels Avho touch at the Cape
during the Avinter season. This range of buildings is re
markably well laid out, and adapted for the use designed.
It contains stores of all kinds ; forges and Avork-shops for
fitting' and repairing the timber or iron-Avork of their ves
sels ; Avith small houses and apartments attached for the
residence of the Avorkmen ^,nd artificers, as also for those
Avho did the duty of guards, which in the Dutch time Avas
occasionally performed by the people belonging to the ma
gazines. At one end Avas a bake-house and a place for
their Avorking slaves ; at a little distance from this Avas a
very commodious and handsome house for the Governor
Avhen he resided here. It has since been the quarters of
tlie British officers stationed at Simon's ToAvn. A little
higher up, on the ascent of a pleasant hill overlooking the
bay, is another large building, which the Dutch used for
an hospital for their sick seamen' and soldiers, and those
who required to recruit their health on shore. This was
converted by the British into an excellent barrack, capable

THE ^CA-PE OF 'GOOD HOPE. &9
*>f containing a regiment which Avas generally stationed 'here
whilst it remained hi our possession. There is also a very
good house Tor the master intendant of tbe 'harbour and
shipping. Besides the hospital already mentioned, there is
another, a kind of pest-house for the sick slaves, and all
those infected with cdntagious disorders, AVhicb the Dutch
always took the greatest precautions to 'prevent from spread
ing; nor did they ever suffer any 'of the crews of their ships
to land without being first examined by a doctor Or health-
master to certify they did not 'bring with theiti any symp
toms of small-pox or other epidemic diseases.
About half a mile from tlie town, proceeding bv a plea- Company's
r & J r garden.
sant walk along the breast of the hill, and immediately over
one side of the bay, you come to the Company's garden,
containing about four acres well planted Avith vegetables for
the use of their shipping, which were supplied Avith a cer
tain proportion daily without expense. This garden Avas
much out of order when I saw it, having been neglected
since the capture of the Cape. At one end stood a very
good house for the man who had the care of planting and
dressing it, with offices for the Company's slaves who Avrought
under him.
Half Avay between the toAvn and the garden is a strong Batteries.
battery en barbet, Avhich commands great part of Simon's
Bay, and can annoy ships very much on their entrance ;
besides this there are a few smaller batteries on a level
Avith the sea, and guns planted at different places to enfilade
the bay, and prevent an enemy from landing on the beach.
LI

50 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Customs in Under the dominion of the Dutch, the Governor and
time. UC principal people who had houses at Simon's Town, only
frequented it Avhen fleets arrived from Europe ; at all other
times they resided at Cape Town and its environs. But
in order to accommodate passengers and officers belonging
to their oavii fleets and ships, as well as those of other
nations Avho occasionally touched here on their passage,
the Dutch East India Company granted leave to a few
persons to build lodging and eating houses, Avhere every
person, Avho wished to refresh himself on shore after a long
voyage, might have for a rix-dollar and a half a day,
(about six shillings of their currency, and 4s. 6d. British)
tolerably good board and lodging. Those houses paid a
certain sum for this privilege to government, and Avere the
first cause of the extension of this place to a toAvn ; which
is hoAvever still very limited, the government of Cape
Town not being willing to allow it to become a place of
any consequence; but Avishing as much as possible, if the
season would at all permit, that vessels should rather put
into Table Bay. The reasons which induced the Dutch
government to adopt this policy, arose from their own
aArarice ; the salaries of the inferior officers of their East
India Company being so small, that those people were in
duced to allow privately of several abuses, for the sake of
a little addition to their emoluments. The Company Avell
knoAving this must be the case, seldom placed any depen
dence on them, and endeavoured as much a circumstances
would permit, to render Table Bay and Cape ToAvn the

5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 51
only places of resort and mart for trade, as here they could
have their officers under their own immediate eye. On
the first news of the arrival of a fleet or any shipping at
False Bay, the Governor and two members of the council
posted down, and Avere followed by those Dutch gentlemen,
who had houses here, to offer their habitations as taverns
to the passengers ; their pride being readily lulled asleep
by the hopes of gain. Besides being very handsomely
paid for board and lodging, Mynheer expects over and
aboAre a present of some valuable Asiatic or European ar
ticle for the VroAV his wife. I must indeed own, that this
species of avarice is not confined to the Dutch settlements ;
at St. Helena it is also practised, where indeed the
charges are still greater, and the extortion more unrea
sonable. After having ascended the hills under which the town Country
immediately lies, and descended on the other side, you Simon's
come to a large flat and marshy plain or valley, some miles
in length, and reaching to Chapman's and Hout's bay.
Hither officers and passengers, belonging to the ships at
anchor, generally go on shooting parties. In those oc- Animals.
casional excursions I met with several kinds of game; par
tridges, Cape pheasants, lowries, wild ducks, snipes ; several
species of small birds of the thrush, bullfinch, and spar
row kinds ; sugar birds, some of which variegated with
green, yellow, and red colours, Avould be much esteemed for
their elegant plumage in Europe. Eagles, vultures, baboons,
and monkeys inhabit the rocks and steeps of the surround-
ii 2

52 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
ing hills, and numbers of land turtles are to be met Avitfo
crawling in the sands. The spring bock, the duyker bock,
small antelopes and hares, are seen hiding in the bushes
and tufts of long grass in the low lands and marshes.
Hyenas, wolves, and jackals frequent the hills, and often
shew themselves, as some alloy to the pleasure of the
sportsmen at night. These animals often come down from
the hills, and attack any loose or stray cattle ; and if very
hungry, will even approach the farm houses which are
scattered up and doAvn, endeavouring to break into the
fences or out houses Avhere the cattle are confined. This
valley separates the southern promontory of Cape Falso
from the hills of Musenberg, and those in the neighbour
hood of Cape Town.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 53

CHAPTER IV.
Road to Cape Town — Signal Posts and Batteries — Mode of
Travelling in Waggons — Fish. Hook Bay — Road from thence
— Variety of Shrubs, Herbs, and Floivers, found here — Mon
keys and Baboons — Musenberg, great strength of it and
of all the Southern Peninsula — Taking qf the Cape by
the English Troops in 1795 — Remarks in a Military Point
of View, and Hints respecting the best Mode of attacking
the Cape
1 Shall iioav leave this part pf the Cape, and proceed to- RoadtoCape
Avards Table Bay and the Cape Toavii, which is distant
about twenty-four miles. The first half of the way lies
along the shore tjill you reach Musenberg, Avhere you have
a broad lake to cross. From Simon's Toavii to this place,
the journey by land is long and tedious, on account of the
great curve formed here by the bay; but after leaving Mu
senberg, the road proceeds in a straight line to Cape Toavii.
All along the shore are signal posts, provided Avith flags signal posts
and guns to give information of ships being in sight. These
are continued from Musenberg to the Cape ToAvn, the
posts being placed on the different eminences commanding
views on the road ; so that in a feAV minutes the intelli
gence is conveyed along the whole line. The flags, Avith
bags of sand suspended from them, are hoisted in the day

;>4 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
time to denote the number of vessels in sight, and if
friends or enemies. Guns serve for the same purpose in
the night time. Batteries are placed in different parts to de
fend the bay, av here the beach admits the landing of boats.
The first part of the road from Simon's Town to the
Cape is oA'er a heavy deep sand, the sea being on the
right hand ; and on the left, low white sandy hills, which
obstacles on add much to the heat and fatigue of the journey. It is
necessary to cross several small bays, which indent the road ;
and to wade through several streams of water, that run into
the sea from the hills. The inconvenience experienced from
these obstacles, joined to the loose, heavy, and hot sands,
over which one has to pass, render this journey extremely
disagreeable and fatiguing to those who, as I did, undertake
it on foot.
Mode of Strangers will find conveyances very dear and difficult to
be procured. A saddle horse cannot be hired at less than
from six to eight rix-dollars, a paper currency worth four
Dutch schellings, or about three British ; and the general
hire of a waggon to a stranger, is from twenty to thirty
rix-dollars ; and even scarcely to be had at that price.
Waggons. A hea\*y surf which runs all along this shore proves very
inconvenient to people travelling in waggons ; as the heavy
loose sand, which is but a little Avay removed from the
surf, renders it difficult for the cattle to draAV ; the waggon
must be kept close to the water's edge, where the sand
being Avetted by the surf, is more solid, and capable of sus
taining the Aveight of the waggon, The surf often rises

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 55
above the na\'e of the wheels, and sometimes, if not dex
terously avoided, it will rush into the body of the waggon
itself, seeming as if it would carry horses, passengers, and
all into the sea: a circumstance which made a particular
impression on my memory, as it had like to have happened
in my own presence to the late General Doyle and the Rev.
Mr. Rosenhagen, in August 1796.
No object sooner attracts the eye of a stranger at the
Cape than those waggons, the number of cattle yoked to
them, the uncommon manner in which they are driven,
and the astonishing, dexterity of the waggoners. These wag
gons are made extremely large and strong ; all great
journies here are undertaken in them; and for size and
accommodation they may be compared to travelling houses;
while the very uneven and rugged roads require them to be
of a peculiar construction, and of great solidity. The body
of the waggon rests on an axle or pole, running length
wise; below it is not unlike a coach, except that the
body is seldom hung on springs.. The waggons are made Mode of
-l ¦ i driving
broad, to prevent overturning, for they are driven over rocks them.
and declivities at full gallop, as it is a principle with the
drivers never to spare the poor cattle. The inside is to
lerably roomy and spacious, with platforms and benches,
Avhich are employed for sitting on, for bedsteads, or for
holding goods. At one end they .are even furnished Avith a
place for cooking, The sides are constructed Avith strong-
boards well put together, and secured by strong pieces
of wood placed perpendicularly. The roof is formed of

g THE CAPE OF 'GOOD 'HOPE.
boards, or thick sail cloth, well tarred, to keep out 'rain.
The Dutch farmers who inhabit the interior, during their
long journies to Cape Town, entirely live in those moving
habitations ; whilst at night, or when they stop to bait and
refresh their cattle, their slaves find shelter under the wag
gon, and the cattle quietly graze hard by, in a spot that
has been pitched upon for its herbage, this being the only
method of procuring proA7ender in that country. In gene
ral the horses and oxen are Avell-made, strong, and very
steady. The clumsy and unwieldy appearance of the vehicles ; the
great number of cattle yoked to them ; the fury with Avhich
they are driven along, Avithout any regard to obstacles,
Avhile the drivers, with their immense long whips, are con
stantly urging the speed of the cattle, and dexterously
turning the Avaggons short at every corner, without the least
hesitation or dread; present altogether a spectacle highly
novel and interesting.
From four to ten or tAvelve pair of horses or oxen are
The horses yoked to one Avaggon. The horses, though a small race,
and oxen. . [ |"
are in general spirited and hardy; they do a great deal of
work on little food, and are capable of enduring great fati
gue. A bunch or two of carrots is sometimes their only
sustenance during a long journey. Their hoofs being
much harder than those of the European horses, they are
not in general shod ; and Avhen they are, it is only on tlie
fore feet. The Cape horses are not sAvift travellers; they
hardly ever exceed fourteen hands in height; and on ac-
o

THE CAPE , OFi GOOD ; HOPE; 57
count of the flies, Avhich are exceedingly troublesome, their
tails are seldom cut. The Dutch never paid any attention
to the improving the breed of horses; they scarcely ever
thought of introducing those of another country to -cross the
breed, and improve the, blood. The oxen are strong, large,
and boney ; though rather pf an aAvkAvard shape, being lank
and long-legged. In general they are yoked both by the
horns and the neck ; and assist the draught with their heads
as Avell as their breast and shoulders.
In front of the body of the Avaggon there is a bar or
piece of wood for a seat, like that placed before our hackney
coaches : on this two of their slaves sit, and from this station
guide a long team of horses or oxen. One of the slaves holds
the reins, and guftles the cattle, whilst the other sits beside him
with a long whip that trails on the ground till he, has occasion
to use iton the cattle, Avhich he does Avith both his hands.
The handle of this prodigious Avhip is of bamboe, from tAvelve The whips.
to fifteen feet long, and is fixed to a thick leather thong
of buffalo hide, rudely platted, and of an equal length with
the handle, with a lash nearly three feet long attached to
the extremity. The drivers are so Arery expert in the use
of this immense Avhip, which to an European appears so
unwieldy, that they can touch a team of ten or twelve
pair of cattle in any part they have a mind, even with the
certainty of hitting a fly off any of the animals. In
deed none of our English charioteers can at all be com
pared to them in such feats of dexterity. When they come
to a deep place of the road, or steep and difficult ascent,
I

58 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
they keep cutting and slashing amongst the cattle to make
them all pull together, and exert their strength equally.
By this means the animals will draAv the waggon over the
most difficult places, even rocks and precipices, whilst the
felloAv Avho holds the reins, equally dexterous on his part,
Avill guide them over in complete safety.
inhumanity The means employed to render the cattle thus manage-
of the Dutch t , .
to their cat- able are, however, revolting to humanity. It excites not
tie. only compassion but horror to see many of those unfortu
nate beasts cut and mangled, as they are, in various parts
of the body ; for a Dutch boor, or farmer, if he finds his
cattle lazy, or stopping from fatigue, or Avhere they meet
with obstacles Avhich their strength cannot easily surmount,
will not hesitate to draw out his great knife and score
their flesh, or even cut slices off without mercy. These
wretched animals seem indeed to Ioioav their cruel master's
intentions ; for their fear and agitation become excessive
Avhen they obsenre him taking out this instrument, and
rubbing it to the Avaggon, as if making it ready for the
1 purpose of tormenting them.
The drivers. The slaves who act as their drivers are generally termed
baastards, being a mixture of Hottentot and Caffree or Negro ;
or produced from their OAvn connection Avith a female slave ;
the latter deriving in general a stouter make and fairer
complection from their parents. This race intermarry among
themselves, and from being bred up in their master's family
from their infancy, are handy, docile, and extremely use
ful ; speaking the Dutch language as well as their oavii.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 5$
When these drivers appear pushing through the streets of
Cape Town, at full gallop, and turning from one street to
another, without pulling in, even Avhere the corners are ex
tremely narrow, Avhich is generally the case, a stranger stops
short Avith a mingled sensation of Avonder and anxiety, dreading
every moment some fatal consequences ; which, hoAvever, rare
ly ever happen. The drivers are early initiated in this
art ; for, Avhile as yet little boys, they begin by being em
ployed to guide the foremost pair, when a long team is
attached to a waggon, in passing through a narrow road. In
many places about the Cape, these roads are merely rocky
defiles between the hills, or narroAV paths between ridges of
sand. On coming to the entrance of those narrow places, they Regulation*
give notice of their approach by cracking their Avhips, ing of wag-"
Avhich they do Avith such a loud report as stuns the ears s°ns'
of a stranger. This is the signal to warn any other Avag-
gon which may be coming from the opposite quarter, not
to enter the narrow path till the other has cleared it; for
if they were to meet there, it Avould be impossible for
them to pass each other. This is a regulation to which
they strictly adhere, and a very heavy penalty is attached
to the breach of it, as the inconvenience arising thence
would be extreme ; one of the waggons would require to be
completely unloaded, and the passage Avould thus perhaps
be stopped up against all intercourse, probably for several
hours. Every waggon is provided Avith strong chains, or drags,
like those used by our mail coaches, to prevent their being
i2

60 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
overturned in going doAvn the precipices and steeps. Some
times they are obliged to drag all the four Avheels, and
have for this purpose a machine Avhich they call a lock-
shoe, being a kind of sledge or trough shod with iron,
into Avhich the Avheels are set. This prevents the Avaggon
from running doAvn the cattle, and certainly is Arery inge
nious in the invention. The cattle are generally placed in
the team so as to draw by the shoulders, a boAV or yoke
of Avood being put on each, and fastened by pegs, through
Avhich holes or notches are made to admit the harness.
The yoke of the hind pair is fastened to the pole of the
waggon, and those of the rest have a strap or chain, run
ning along the yokes of each pair, and carried on to the
head, where it is fastened to the horns. Their bellies and
hinder parts are left at liberty, Avhich gives them room to
move about in the waggons, and appears to render the
draught easier to them. The principal guidance of the
Avaggon depends on the foremost pair, which are generalfy
the best trained, othenvise they might trample doAvn the
little Hottentot boys, Avho usually run before, and guide
them by a kind of bridle or cord passed through the nos
trils. It sometimes happens that these little wretches are
thrown doAvn and trodden to death, before the cattle can be
stopped. The attachment of the animals to their little
leaders is very great, and sometimes you will see them look
about for them and keep bellowing and uneasy till they
come to their heads. The cattle are under great command,
and will readily obey the slightest word from their drivers ;,
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 61
on being called to by name individually, they Avill increase
their efforts, and draw together, even without the employ
ment of the whip.
I left my reader traversing the barren sandy road from
Simon's ToAvn to Musenberg. The distance already pass
ed is about ten miles, although to the eye it does not
appear above five, oAving to the sudden course which the
bay here makes. In this course are formed two or three FishHoofe
Bay,
smaller bays, the largest of which is Fish Hook Bay. Along
this latter the traveller is obliged to coast for more than a
mile, Avading all the Avhile through small streams of Avater,
some of which are knee deep. A battery is erected on an
eminence at the east end, which flanks the whole beach,
which is here sandy, though a heavy surf runs along it.
After leaving Fish Hook Bay you ascend a small steep, and Roaci from.
get into a rugged, narroAV, and rocky road close to the Bay.
hills, which you noAV approach. At some little distance, a
bold rocky shore appears under you on the right hand,
Avhose violent surf even reaches to the ascent along Avhich
you hoav proceed. This narroAV road continues for about
tAvo miles, to the pass of Musenberg; and, notwithstanding
its being sa full of ascents and descents, and in different
places rugged and rocky, it is much preferable to the deep
and fatiguing sand which the traveller encounters on his first
setting out from Simon's Town. The eye iioav meets with piantshere'ih
a different prospect, and full scope is afforded to the bo
tanist for gratifying his favourite propensities. At the foot
©f the hills, which are close to your left hand, a great va-

f>2 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,
riety of evergreen African plants present themselves, amidst
a profusion of other shrubs and flowers. Those Avhich most
attract the attention are, the red pepper tree, the castor
oil shrub, the silver tree, (or protea argentea), myrtles se
veral feet high, laurel and laurestinas in abundance, arbutus,
jessamins, geraniums, sun flowers, blood flowers, cotton
shrub, coffee plant, nopal or prickly pear, wild asparagus,
mulberry, and many others peculiar to this part of the
Avorld. Several beautiful kinds of flowers grow among the
sands. The sides of the hills under which the road passes,
are also thinly covered with small scattered trees of the
Monkeys and shrub kind, which appear to grow out of the rocks. Vul-
baboons. r L °
tures and eagles are seen hovering over the summit; Avhile
baboons and large grey monkeys appear in numbers skip
ping about, and jumping from one rock to another. In
passing along, we were much diverted by the antic tricks
and gestures of those creatures, Avhose continual amusement
is to keep threatening the people as they pass underneath ;
and endeavouring to throw down upon them loose stones
and pieces of rock. During this employment, a most ex
traordinary chattering and noise is kept up. The baboon is
extremely mischievous, and particularly the bear ape, from
its resemblance to a bear in the jaAvs and head. This ugly
animal is both mischievous and ferocious ; and Avhere seve
ral of them fall in with a single person, they will not scruple
to attack him.
Pass at Mq. Beyond those hills is the strong and important pass of
Musenberg, reckoned to be about tAvelve miles from Simon's
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 63
Town, and the same distance from the Cape. Tlie moun
tainous tracts of the southern extremity of the Cape, as I
have observed above, compose three divisions. The huge
range which forms the Cape of Good Hope, and runs to
Simon's Town, is the first ; the hills of Musenberg, and
those Avhich run from Simon's ToAvn as far as Constantia,
Avhere they terminate in a valley, form the second ; and
the Tyger, the Table, and adjoining hills, compose the third
range. These indeed are all connected together, and rarely
separated by any considerable intervals.
The Musenberg mountain may be said to cut off the ex- The pass of
Musenberg.
tremity of the southern peninsula from the Cape, as the
range of mountains extends from the shore on this side,
quite across to the sea on the other side the Isthmus near
Hoets Bay ; all this extreme point of Africa is admirably
defended by nature, but the pass here at Musenberg may
well be compared to the ancient Thermopylae of Greece ;
an enemy marching from .Simon's Town to the Cape would
here find an almost insurmountable obstacle to his progress.
From the foot of the very high and steep hill to the sea
is not more than fifty yards, and no boat can land within
some distance at either side on account of the rocky beach
and heavy surf. These natural causes form the great strength
of the pass, which also is a defile of considerable length,
being upwards of three hundred yards from Avhere it nar
rows at the foot of the first hill to the further extremity
where it Avidens into a more open space, Avhich however still

64 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
possesses its oavii particular defences from nature. This pass
struck us all with Avonder at its strength ; and we could not
help reflecting Avith a mixture of surprise and contempt on
the Dutch troops Avho alloAved ours so easily to take pos
session of it, while it is so exceedingly strong that a very
few men with field pieces might defend it Avithout any risque
to themselves, and arrest the progress of a Avhole army.
Projecting from the main hill, which forms the great natu
ral barrier on the left, is another smaller steep which covers
the former, and also faces the sea. Since the arrival of the
English this important pass has been much strengthened
Avith additional Avorks, lines, and batteries, erected along the
slope of the hills facing the sea, and the road leading from
Simon's Toavii, and may iioav be deemed impregnable from
that side Avithout any considerable force being requisite for
its defence. All the different passes on this side the penin
sula are much indebted to nature for their strength, and are
capable of being maintained by a small number of troops ;
General Craig added considerably to their security, and as
sisted nature with art wherever it Avas necessary.
With all the advantages which the pass of Musenberg
derives from nature, it may be a matter of Avonder Iioav it
was so easily forced by the British troops in the year 1795.
A short account of that transaction Avill hoAvever remove
the mystery, and afford a useful warning to other nations;
us it will sheAV that neither the advantages of strong posi
tion, of superior numbers, or local knowledge can avail for

K

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 6j
the defence of a people whose courage has been corrupted
by sensuality, and their public spirit swalloAved up by the
thirst of private gain.
General Craig came to anchor at Simon's Bay convoyed Arrival of the
English un-
by Admiral Elphinstone with a British fleet. A landing was der General
effected Avith little or no opposition; the Dutch evacuated
the place on our coming into the bay, without even giving
us a salute from the batteries, which protected the landing
place and town. A few Dutchmen who did not chuse to
abandon their property, remained behind, confiding in the
honour and humanity of our countrymen, Avhich in every
instance amply justified their expectations.
As the force which accompanied General Craig was only
a part of what Avas destined for the attack on the Cape,
and consisted mostly of new raised regiments, the General
took up a position at Simon's Toavii, waiting for the ar
rival of Sir Alured Clarke, with a reinforcement, which was
daily expected. Some time having elapsed without his
appearance, and the season coming On Avhich would render
it dangerous for the fleet to remain in False Bay ; and the
General having also received a supply of stores and other
necessaries, with near five hundred troops from St. Helena^
he determined to move forward and attack the Dutch en
camped at Musenberg. For this purpose he was reinforced Marches to
from the fleet with a large detachment of sailors, and some a"nabc£gMu"
marines, which were formed into two battalions, commanded
by Captains Spranger and Hardy, of the Rattlesnake and
Echo sloops of war. The General's advanced posts took
K

GG THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
possession of the different batteries along the shore, and
at Fish Hook Bay ; and marched straight to Musenberg,
Avhere the Dutch seemed strongly posted and determined to
make a stand. They had a much greater force than Ge
neral Craig, having nearly two thousand burghers aud
militia, all mounted, besides a corps of Hottentots, Avho
Avere posted upon the hills. This was not sufficient to damp
the ardour of our countrymen, Avho boldly advanced in de-
111 conduct of fiance of ail those discouraging circumstances. The Dutch
the Dutch ° *
troops. on our approach neither behaA'ed Avith courage or prudence,
nor took a proper advantage of their strong position. They
sent a party of armed Burghers, Hottentots, and Caffrees,
to skirmish, and annoy the. General's march; but Avithout
any good effect, as they were soon repulsed ; and this mea
sure, therefore, tended only to dispirit their oavii people
and add to their indecision. On our approach, these skir
mishing parties fell back with precipitation on the pass at
Musenberg ; and Avere thus the means of preA^enting their
batteries from opening a full and Avell-directed fire upon
us as we advanced. The General seeing them Avaife for him
in the pass, and the hills lined with their Hottentots,
Caffrees, and slaves, thought he Avould have a difficult and
dangerous service to perforin before he could dislodge them ;
for the Black troops, as Avell as the Dutch, were known
to be excellent marksmen ; and the position which they
occupied was particularly well adapted for deriving much
advantage from their skill in this way.
The flank companies of the 7&th and the other regi-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. $T
ments with a battalion of seamen was ordered to ascend
the hill, and attempt to drive off the parties stationed
there. The enemy were soon routed, and fled in every di
rection, although with some loss on our part. Major
Monnypenny * of the 78th regiment, a most excellent and*
valuable officer, avIio commanded on this service, was se
verely wounded, and Captain Scott of the' 78th, slightly,
with seventeen sailors and privates. The Hottentots and
Dutch slaves, seeing the boldness and intrepidity of our
sailors and soldiers, took to their heels, and fled doAvn the
hills on the opposite side. A very characteristic trait of Anecdote of
1 r our sailors.
our gallant tars, on this occasion, was related to me by an
officer present. The impatience and ardour of many of
them was so great, that they flung away their firelocks,
the sooner to overtake and grapple with the enemy, ex
claiming that they were not used to carry arms aloft. Not
withstanding that a severe encounter was expected by our
soldiers, yet they could not help laughing at the eccentric
traits of natural intrepidity displayed by our brave sailors
on this occasion. The Dutch burghers and militia with a
degree of folly scarcely to be accounted for, retired, and
made a stand about a quarter of a mile from the pass,
leaving its defence t6 some riflemen and infantry. These,
however, on General Craig's approach, and the advance of
the flank companies and sailors from the hills, fell back on
their main body, and abandoned this important place, Avhich
they should have defended to the last extremity. The
Dutch being in great force, seemed again to sIicav a bold
4fr*2

68 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
front, having taken up a position at a place where there
had been erected a barrack, a magazine, and a battery,
which enfiladed the sea, and the head of Musenberg pass.
But the America of 64 guns, which with others of our ships
&ept sailing along the bay, a,nd attending the march of our
army to Musenberg point, anchored as close to the shore
as she could Avith safety; and fired on their battery with
such effect, as to throw the Dutch into great confusion.
Our troops at the same time pressed forward, and quickly
passing this narrow defile, and forming with uncommon
promptness and celerity, as soon as they got into the broad
sandy tract which commences immediately here, advanced
directly against them. Upon which the Dutch, dreading to
encounter an enemy before whom they had all day been
flying, took to their heels, and retreated to Wineberg, an
other post about six miles farther on. The only effort which
the Dutch made with the great guns of their battery, was
to fire at the America as she Avas approaching to anchor.
One shot struck her, and passing right through between
decks, killed two seamen ; this compliment was speedily re
turned from the guns of the America, which succeeded in
beating their magazine and battery to pieces, and killing
some of their men. General Craig after securing Musen
berg, and the country betAveen it and Simon's Toavii, en
camped here, waiting the arrival of General Clarke from
Europe with reinforcements. The latter in a few days ar
rived, on which our army marched forward to Wineberg,
Avhere after another skirmish, the Dutch withdrew to Cape
9 n,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 69
Town, and sent proposals to the English General to capi
tulate, which being accepted, we thus got possession of this
large and extensive settlement with little opposition and
hardly any loss.
As it was from .this point that the English made their
attack on tlie Cape, it may not be unimportant to give
some more particular account of its local situation and its
military advantages. From the extremity of the Cape of
Good Hope, as I already observed, a chain of mountains
extends quite along to Cape Town. This chain follows from
Cape Point the course of the beach to Simon's Town, and
onward to the northernmost part or bottom of False Bay.
It then strikes off to the westward towards Constantia, runs
along again in a northerly direction, and joins with Table
Mountain at the back or south side, the Tiger Hill ap
pearing as an advanced angle Or bastion to it. This chain,
however, is interrupted in two or tliree places ; in the first by
a A^alley near Constantia, through which a road passes to Hoets
Bay, and afterAvards by a sandy long flat a little north of
Simon's Town, which also opens a communication with a
bay in the neighbourhood of Hoets Bay. There is a pas
sage through this last valley from the east to the west
coasts, which has led to a conjecture that formerly it was a
small strait or sound, which has been gradually filled up by
the violent Avinds drifting the sand. It is indeed supposed
that all the low sandy tracts east of Cape ToAvn, and par
ticularly that beyond the pass of Musenberg, lying between
the road and the sea shore, were in all probability formed

70 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in the same manner. The nature of the soil strengthens
this opinion, as it is mostly composed of sea sand, shells,
and A^arious marine productions. These are found in every
part of this Ioav tract, as also towards the head of Table
Bay, Avhich is certainly becoming gradually shallower and
decreasing in size, by means of the heaps of sand conti-
Miiitaiy nually drifting in and forming dry ground. I shall here
hints re
specting the take the liberty to offer a feAV observations with regard to
attacking the . >
Cape from the mode of attack Avhich seems most likely to succeed
this side.
from this side against Cape Town. These observations
were suggested by a vieAV of the spot, and may therefore
afford some hints to those who may hereafter be employed
in this service. The works at Musenberg pass have been
made so strong by the English, while in possession of this
colony, that they are absolutely impregnable. The coast
directly opposite it is full of shoals and rocks, and besides
extremely dangerous from a dreadful surf, which rages
equally along the sandy beach as where it is rocky. Men
of war may render assistance at some distance beyond Mu
senberg pass, as happened in 1795, but they cannot act
with effect directly abreast of it. By our judicious arrange
ment of Avorks and batteries along the pass, Ave have given
the Dutch great advantages, and pointed out to them the
means of making the utmost of its natural situation. We
may therefore be considered as having absolutely precluded
ourselves from any reasonable hope of a successful attack
on this position, against an enemy at all determined to
oppose us.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 71
When General Craig appeared before it in 1795, a Avani
of energy and descision appeared equally evident in the
conduct of the Dutch government and their troops. If
they had any good officers, their advices were rejected, and
their orders disobeyed; or if their representations were at
all attended to, their plans were executed in so impotent
a manner as to be utterly ineffectual. An easy conquest
Avas the inevitable consequence of such circumstances. The
militia and burghers, chiefly interested in the safety of their
own personal property, were alike insensible to the calls of
honour and patriotism, and seemed to entertain little con
cern for the interests of their government. Afraid of our
troops carrying the toAvn by assault, they dared not risk
any exertions for its defence; and after a very short con
flict they gave up the very post Avhich Avas its strongest
security. Afraid of our landing between Musenberg and
the town, without giving themselves time to reflect on the
difficulties and hazard Ave should have to encounter in such
an attempt, and Avithout arranging any plan to prevent us,
they listened only to their fears, and in order to remove
to some distance from us, retreated precipitately to Wine
berg, and meanly gave up an easy prey to their enemies
the key to Cape Town. With the pass of Musenberg, de
fended as it now is by impregnable works, an attack on
Cape Town, to afford any prospect of success, must be at
tempted from a different quarter. If it Avould not be found
expedient to attack from Table Bay, it might be attended.
with happy consequences to disembark at Hoets Bay ;
2

72 THE- CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
making a diversion at the same time by landing a force at
Simon's Town, and marching it across, the mountains nearly
due west, and afterAvards in a northerly direction by the
back of Constantia, where it might join with the force at
Hoets Bay. The pass of Musenberg might thus be en
tirely avoided by several miles. After effecting the junction
just alluded to, if necessary, a position might be taken up
at Wineberg, which affords several strong ones; and from
hence the force might act again Cape Town as circum
stances should direct. The shipping in the mean time, if
the season permitted, might go round to Table Bay, and at
tack the batteries Chevone and Amsterdam, whilst a body
of troops landing at Green Point, or along the back of the
Lion's Rump, might co-operate in gaining possession of
those batteries. Were this once effected, the town would
be found perfectly defenceless from that side, as these bat
teries, which here form its chief security, might be turned
against it, while the castle, which lies on the other side,
could not attack them without demolishing the toAvn. The
country between Hoets Bay, Wineberg, and Cape Town,
would be found capable of greatly contributing to the sub
sistence of the troops during these operations ; particularly
as it would be in their poAver to intercept all the supplies
destined for the town. The confidence and esteem Avhich
the British instilled into the Hottentots by their good faith,
while they held possession of this colony, as Avell as the
hatred which has been inspired among these natives by the
contrary conduct of the Dutch, would at the same time be

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 73
found very beneficial to us ; and should we not succeed
in deriving a sufficient supply of provisions from the parts
contiguous to Cape Town, there is every reason to expect
we should be readily and amply furnished by the Hot
tentots. It must however be at all times recollected, that should
a force be sent against the Cape of Good Hope, the points
from which the attack ' is to be made must in a great
measure depend on the season of the year. From March
till the latter end of September, the north-west Avinds pre
vail Avith great violence, so that during this period it is
extremely hazardous to put into Table Bay, and nearly
impossible to remain there for any length of time. The
safe landing of the troops, and the co-operation of the
fleet would then be equally precarious: at this season False
Bay would be the place of disembarkation, and the ope
rations which I have already described might be executed
from Simon's Town. It is but seldom, and that only
during the greatest violence of the south-west Avinds, that
Hoets Bay could not admit of a force landing for co-ope
ration. To land a detachment at Hoets Bay would be
absolutely necessary, as it is altogether impossible to drag
artillery along the route I have pointed out from Simon's
Town to Wineberg ; and this indeed is rather in favour of
the invaders, as it prevents the enemy from annoying them
Avith artillery on their march. If the weather should not
allow of a landing at that side of the isthmus where Hoets
Bay lies, there is a long range of sandy beach on the
L

74 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
north side of False Bay, quite beyond the flats of Mu
senberg, with a broad lake between them, where the men
of war might easily and safely- cover the landing of the
troops. From this quarter the communication might be
completely cut off betAveen Musenberg and Cape Town,
and the plans of defence Avhich depend upon that post
might thus be entirely OA^erthrown. At every season of the
year, except in the height of the two prevailing winds, the
north-west and south-east, this might be attempted with
every probability of safety and success. Wineberg would
at all times afford a healthy and excellent post for our
troops, Avith a considerable supply of provisions from the
farms in the neighbourhood, and strong grounds and emi
nences for protecting our forces, till such time as it might
be found convenient to commence offensive operations.
In the event of the attacking force arriving at tlie Cape
while the south east winds prevail from October to March,
Table Bay must undoubtedly be the point of attack ; and
my remarks on this contingency Avill be found in a sub
sequent part of this volume.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 75

CHAPTER V.
Road and Country beyond Musenberg — Broad Lake — Game —
Quadrupeds — Constantia — A Dutch Boor's House — Wineberg
— A Hottentot Krail — Description of that People — Their
Traffic with the Dutch — Their Manners, Dispositions, and
Modes of Life — Remarks on their Treatment by the Dutch.
AFTER quitting the strong and important post of Mu
senberg, there opens before you a broad flat sandy plain,
at the commencement of which is a range of store houses
and barracks, Avith a battery, Avhich I have already men
tioned. A little beyond is a broad lake, which however is Lake near
fordable, except in very wet weather; and, as it lies directly
in the Avay, it must of necessity be crossed.
The hills here quit the shores of the bay, and begin to
bend inland. They noAV assume a gentler aspect, and in
stead of abrupt and barren rocks, present an agreeable ver
dure. The broad lake just mentioned abounds with a Aquatic fowl
number of wild ducks, and other species of aquatic visitors. an same'
It affords excellent sport, and many shooting excursions are
made to it. Here I first saw the flamingo, Avhich standing
up in the Avater, presented a most beautiful appearance
Avith its intermixed Avhite and vermilion plumage. All
along the sides of this lake to Constantia, Avhich is situated
in an angle or nook formed by the hills that turn off
from Musenberg towards Hoets Bay, there is a surprising
l 2

76 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
variety of game. The spring bock and small antelopes
often start up before you on the road. The lake runs
close to the sea on the right, from which it is separated
by a ridge of sand formed by the violent winds. The wa
ter it contains is brackish. As you advance you encounter
several smaller though deeper lakes, and also rivulets and
marshes which must be crossed. This part of the country
has a Avild and desolate appearance ; only a few stunted
Wild beasts and parched shrubs grow amongst the ridges of sand. Ti-
near Musen
berg hills. gers, hyenas, wolves, and jackals infest the neighbouring
hills, and frequently come down at night to devour the
cattle, which may have strayed, or been left without a
proper guard. They have often been known to attack
men; a short time before our fleet arrived at the Cape,
a picquet of the 78th shot tAVO hyenas who approached
their post; and the sentries at night were always doubled
in consequence of those creatures. On my first going this
way to Cape Toavii, I saw a slave pursued to some distance
by a hyena, Avho folloAved him till he got assistance.
Those wild beasts do a great deal of mischief to the Dutch
planters and farmers, which they are the more enabled to
do from the thinness of white inhabitants; the remoteness
of one habitation from another preA^ents them from affording
each other mutual assistance. The Dutch, Avho seem on
most occasions to have been more ready to endure evils,
than attempt to remedy them by any active exertion, took
but little pains to destroy the wild beasts ; and the black
people, yet more indolent, never of their own accord made

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 77
the smallest effort for this purpose. From this want of
enterprize on the part of the inhabitants, no quarter of the
colony is free from these destructive invaders; for even
the most highly cultivated spots have hills in their vici
nity which afford a retreat to beasts of prey, from whence
they issue at night, and devour Avhatever falls in their
Avay. It is not unfrequent to meet in the plains, and at
the foot of the hills, the half devoured bodies of oxen
and sheep, who have either strayed or been dragged off
by the wolves or hyenas. The Dutch seem to be welt
contented if they can keep them clear of their houses ; and
Avhen these are not annoyed, they are little uneasy at the
loss of their cattle, which they look upon as a matter of
course. The only exertion which these indolent colonists
make for their security is perhaps to dig a pit or trap-
in the neighbourhood of their farm-yard, and place a bait
there to allure these animals, of which they generally find
one caught in the morning. Not a vestige of any dwelling
is to be seen from False Bay to Wineberg, a distance of
eighteen miles. This may be deemed extraordinary, as it
is the direct and only road between Simon's Town and the
populous town of the Cape ; and the more so, as several
spots in the way are capable, with very little trouble, of
being brought to a high state of cultivation.
On approaching Wineberg, the hills on our left hand be
gan to change their wild appearance. At the foot of one
of them, a very pleasant green hill about three miles dis
tant, we had a view of the rich and beautiful plantations

78 1 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and vineyards of Constantia, so celebrated for its luscious
Avine of that name.
First house Immediately before Ave came to Wineberg, we fell in with
from Simon's tx i i , i i • i /v i i
Town., a Dutch boor s house, Avhich afforded us an opportunity ot
refreshment, extremely acceptable ; as we were now become
very hungry and fatigued by a long walk of eighteen
miles, through a difficult and sandy road, which we felt still
more toilsome from the length of time we had been confined
on board of ship, Avhere our utmost range extended only to
a feAv planks. This house is the first that presents itself
after leaving Simon's ToAvn, and although but seven miles
from the Cape it is called the half-way house. The mas
ter of this house of accommodation had been a Dutch sol
dier, and his time of service being expired, he afterwards
rented a small farm here, and entertained travellers on their
way to and from Cape Town. Being determined to remain
here all night, and to prefer repose to every other consi
deration, Ave thought ourselves fortunate in getting some
tolerably good mutton and potatoes for supper. Our land
lord's beds, and particularly his Avine, Avere scarcely capable
of being relished by persons even in our fatigued condition.
The wine commonly drunk at the Cape is a poor light
Avhite wine, Avithout either body or flavour, and very un
palatable to those accustomed to the Avines drunk in Eng
land. This Dutch peasant I understood Avas miserably poor
before the arrival of the English. His condition, hoAvever,
soon became altered by the number of our countrymen con-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 79
tinually passing and repassing on this road, and by part of
the troops being encamped close by, at Wineberg. The
latter he constantly supplied with bread, meat, vegetables,
and fruit, by which he made a great deal of money ; and,
although at his first setting out, the accommodations his
house afforded were very poor indeed, yet necessity obliged
people to become his guests, and put up with his fare.
On my return from India a few years after my first visit
to this Dutchman, I spent some days with the officers of
a regiment encamped near this spot, and I could not then
but observe how my landlord had thriven by means of his
English customers. He had now been enabled to build a
handsome house, and to purchase a number of slaves and
cattle with the profits arising from his being baker and sut
ler to the troops at Wineberg, and keeping a house of re
freshment for the officers, and occasional passengers. He
had several daughters, Avhose beauty deserved more to be
praised than their civility" and moderation ; for, with an ap
pearance v of avarice which would seem altogether shocking
to our countryAVomen, those young girls took every oppor
tunity to increase the charges of the house. When the
landlord asked for his accommodation two rix-dbllars, or
tAVO shillings, they would without hesitation call out to him
to demand four. This practice of instigating to extortion,
which is very customary among the housewives at the Cape,
forms a remarkable and not a very pleasing feature in the
characters of the Dutch women.
After leaving this house, Ave had to pass over a small
9

80 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
hill covered Avith shrubs, and having a stream of water
Winebag, at the foot of it. The country round is called by the ge
neral name of Wineberg. On a rising piece of ground near
our left hand, the light companies of the 78th, 84th, 95th,
and 98th, were very comfortably hutted. Their huts were
formed into regular streets, like an encampment, and pre
sented the appearance of a neat village. They Avere com
posed of large branches and limbs of trees, well thatched
Avith very thick sedges, peculiar to this country, and well
Akraeiof calculated to keep off the violent winds and rain. At the
Hottentots. upper end of the encampment, and a little way detached, Avas
a krael of Hottentots, consisting of nearly fh/e hundred men
with their families. Most of those had voluntarily entered
into tlie English service; many had been before in that of
the Dutch, and were part of their troops who attacked our
army at Musenberg. General Craig formed them into a
corps commanded by an officer of the 78th regiment, they
were clothed in red jackets, canvas waistcoats and trow-
sers, leathern caps and shoes ; and armed with muskets
and bayonets. Several of them understood the use of fire
arms, and Avere excellent marksmen. Those who had lately
come from the interior to enter into our service, and had
not as yet been clothed or disciplined, Avere in a perfect
state of nature. A description of those people, Avith their
manners and customs, such as I learnt them to be from
the inquiries Avhich I Avas induced by my curiosity to make,
will, I trust, not prove unentertaining to my readers.
The Hottentots are the original natives of the southern

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 81
angle of Africa, and were the only race of people found there
by the Dutch on their first arrival. They are naturally of a
mild, peaceable, and timid disposition ; the Dutch, therefore,
without difficulty prevailed on them to consent to their forming
a colony here. The Hottentots previous to this period were Description
always at peace amongst themselves ; they knew no wants, tentots.
and their riches comprehended only a few cattle and some
iron to make instruments, for killing fish and game. Since
the Dutch have become masters of their country, the state
of this wretched people has been very much reversed : the
constant policy of the European colonists having been to
keep the natives in a state of ignorance, poverty, and the
most abject and degraded slavery. In proportion to the
gradual encroachments of the Dutch, and the extension of
their settlements, the poor Hottentots, not capable of Avith-
standing them, retired farther into the country. Still, in
deed, there are some kraels or tribes of these people living
quietly under the government of the colonists, acknowledg
ing their authority, rearing ;cattle for them, assisting in
their husbandry, and in the- culture of their farms and
plantations. From policy, which they have been willing
to pass for a sense of justice, the Dutch have paid some
marks of attention and respect to the chiefs or heads
of those tribes; and have publicly nominated them cap
tains over the rest ; adding, at the same time, as a bad^e
of office, a chain and staff, or pole, headed with silver or
brass, Avith the arms of their republic engraved on it. These
chiefs, in return for those marks of distinction, are obliged
M

82 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
to appear at certain periods at Cape Town, before the
Governor and Council, and there give an account of the
people under them, and receive orders from the Dutch.
After performing this duty, they are generally sent back
Avith presents of gin, brandy, tobacco, iron, and toys. While
at the Cape, I have seen several of those Captains, as they
are called, bearing their staffs of office, Avhich they seem to
hold in high estimation.
Population. If Ave consider the immense tract of country over which
the Hottentots are scattered, their population is extremely
small. Of late they have also considerably diminished from
A'arious causes; of which the severities exercised towards
them by the Dutch form the principal. Although by an
ancient laAV at the Cape, the Hottentots were not to be
accounted slaves, but Avere to be entertained as hired ser
vants in the service of the Dutch, yet the latter have al
ways behaved to them in such a manner, as if they were
resolved to eradicate every feeling of humanity out of the
breasts of these unfortunate people. In this indeed they
have succeeded so well, that a Hottentot seems now to con
sider himself as designed by nature merely to serve and to
suffer ; and there is scarcely one krael to be found within
the reach of the Dutch government, Avhich retains any idea
of its original independence. The original Hottentots are,
it is true, considered by the laAvs as freemen ; but so many
pretexts are found to entrench on this freedom, that it
proves to be merely nominal.
A Dutch farmer claims all children born of a Hottentot
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 8
Avoman by another father than one of her own tribe, as
slaves ; even those arising from their own connection Avith a
Hottentot woman; and also all the children Avhich spring
from the connection of a Hottentot man with a slave avo-
man of any denomination. But the Dutch masters Avent
still farther ; for the children of Hottentots living with
them as hired servants, although both father and mother
belonged to that race, were yet retained as slaves till they
arrived at the age of twenty-nVe years ; and although the
laAvs in favour of the Hottentots obliged the Dutch to re
gister such children at the Cape, and to give them their
freedom at this age ; yet the period of their liberty was
in reality little nearer than before, unless they deserted into
the wild and uncultivated parts of the interior, far beyond
the reach of their masters. Many arts were employed to
retain them beyond the age of twenty-five years ; it Avas
usual to keep them in ignorance of the date of their birth,
and thus make them continue to Avork till their strength
began to fail them. When become old, feeble, and ex
hausted with labour, they were at last discharged, and turn
ed out to misery, without being allowed to carry with them
any thing which they had obtained during their servitude.
Those unhappy natives who engage by the year in the
service of a Dutch farmer, Avhen they Avish to depart, often
find their children detained from them. Hence arises that
indifference to marriage and tbe propagation of children, for
which this race of people is distinguished. It is not un
common with many Hottentots to deprive themselves be-
m 2

ct

84 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. *
fore marriage of the power of procreation, which many of
the women in particular dp in despite of their masters, to
disappoint their oppressors, and prevent themselves from
having the mortification of beholding their unfortunate off-
spring born to slavery and Avretchedness.
The very thin population of the Hottentots must also,
in some measure, be ascribed to their mode of life. The
resources of sustenance are ahvays A'ery scanty in such a
rude state of society : the peculiar indolence and Avant of
vigour in the Hottentot character renders this still more
the case ; and something of their degeneracy and decrease of
numbers has also been ascribed to their never marrying out
of their oavii particular krael. These causes, Avith the op
pression of the Dutch, seem sufficient to account for the
scanty population of the Hottentots, Avithout supposing, as
some have done, that nature has assigned to this race any
Dispositions, peculiar sterility. The Hottentots differ^ materially from all
other races of Africans, being neither ferocious, aAraricious,
nor stubborn. Pliable and tractable in the extreme, they
readily become the dupes of the designing, and might pro
bably be with little more trouble turned toAvards the arts
of civilization. Their honesty, fidelity, mildness, and strong
attachment to each other, indicate dispositions the most
favourable to culture and virtue. The narroAV and barba
rous policy of the Dutch, however, made them imagine that
the encouragement of such dispositions -would interfere Avith
their own prospects of Avealth and dominion ; and that the
Hottentots if once in any degree civilized, Avould no longer

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 85
continue the obedient slaves of their oppressors. On this
account the colonists have been assiduous in extinguishing
those sparks of humanity which were the original gifts of
nature ; and the mild, yielding, and tractable Hottentot is
now become a creature sunk in the most abject slavery,
and the most hopeless despair. Their original bad qualities
are comparatiA'ely but few, and such as might be removed
by the adArancement of civilization. They are indeed lazy to
a great degree ; even hunger cannot provoke them to be at
any trouble in procuring food ; yet when it is procured,
they are most disgustingly voracious, and will SAvallow
down at one time an enormous quantity of half broiled
meat, or even raAv intestines. Any preparation of their food
seems indeed to be accounted by them altogether superflu
ous. Their only luxury consists in eating ; and sleeping
seems to be the only recreation from which they derive
any enjoyment. The savages of America hunt the deer,
and the other Avild beasts of the forest, as much for the sake
of the sport as for obtaining food ; but it is not so with
the Hottentot : his only motive for the chase is to prevent
himself from starving ; nor does he ever undertake it except
when impelled by the imperious calls of hunger. Instead of
salt to correct the putrid qualities of their meat, for it is in
that state they prefer it, the Hottentots use the juice of limes,,
or of certain acrid plants, and also ashes of green wood.
In general they seem to have an aversion to salt, and hardly
ever use it in their food. In digestion they resemble the
canine species ; for they eat an enormous quantity, and then

86 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Appearance, digest it by sleeping for many hours after. In appearance
they are remarkably ugly ; in height perhaps rather
above the middling size. They are both more ordinary in
their faces, and not so Avell made in their persons as the
Malays. Their faces are flat and disfigured, as they have
the gristles of their noses broken immediately after their
birth. This, Avhich is counted among them a mark of
beauty, gives them a resemblance to the Chinese and
Malays, Avho observe the same practice. I should imagine
the original colour of the Hottentot to be inclining to a
yellowish cast, but from their infancy they anoint their
bodies with sheep's fat and grease mixed with soot, ashes,
buckee powder, or such materials, which gives them a
broAvner and more dismal tinge. The use of this ointment
is however found necessary, as it keeps off the muskettoes
and other vermin, Avith which this country abounds. Their
foreheads are very large, and remarkably round. Their eyes
are brown or of a dull black, and have not that sparkling
vivacity which usually distinguishes those of the Asiatics ;
and though large, they appear sunk in their heads .from the
great protuberance of their foreheads. The cheek-bones are
uncommonly high; their mouth and chin narrow; so that
their face appears pointed at the lower end. Their teeth
are as white as ivory, their hair is composed merely of
short curly tufts of avooI scattered very thinly; and not
nearly so black or so thick as that of the negroes ; and
they have no beards. Their limbs are rather small, and do
Agility. not seem formed for strength. The men are reckoned re-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 87
markably swift and active in their persons, although their
dispositions are lazy and listless. The Boschermen Hotten
tots, who now are well known to be the aborigines of this
country, are particularly distinguished for their activity, and
will keep up with a horse at 'full speed for a considerable
time. This has been found true on experience by several
of our countrymen. General Vandeleur, though very well
mounted, in making away from a party of them, whom he
accidentally encountered, narrowly escaped being hasagayed
or killed with their spears. Some of them have one of
their testicles cut out, whilst they are young, to increase
their speed; and all have a method of pushing them up
into the abdomen, where from habit they remain, and ex
hibit the same appearance as if they Avere totally deprived
of them. It is indeed truly astonishing to see them run
without once stopping for several miles, at the same time
carrying their arms, which are generally hasagayes or spears,
headed with iron, which they throw with such dexterity as
to hit an object of the size of a card at forty, fifty, or sixty
yards distance. Besides these, they carry huge clubs, bows
and arrows always poisoned, and small lances and darts.
Their weapons are poisoned with juice extracted from cer
tain herbs and plants, or from the heads of snakes, parti
cularly the puff-adder and speckled snake, peculiar to the
Cape. Gin, brandy, and tobacco, constitute their chief
luxuries. The dress of the Hottentot men, in an uncivi- Dress.
lized state, is a kind of cloak, called a kroess, made of
sheep-skin thrown over their shoulders, and fastened at their

88 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
breasts with a leather thong or wooden skeAver. In the cold
season they Avear this kroess with the avooI inside, and it
then also serves them for a covering when they lie doAvn
to sleep, as they have a peculiar manner of contracting them
selves, and drawing up their limbs under it. For covering
to their lower extremities, they wear some pieces of sheep
skin wrapped about them, and loosely sewed together. On
their heads they have a cap or piece of skin of a conic
shape, tied under the chin. Pieces of tanned leather or
sheep-skin, Avrapped round their feet, and tied on with dried
guts or slips of leather, bound round the ancles, serve them
for shoes. Several strings of dried guts and sineAvs of beasts
are suspended round their necks and bodies, which as Avell
as their covering they occasionally eat Avhen pressed for food,
and too lazy to go in search of it. They constantly Avear
a pouch and belt of sheep-skin to hold a knife and a pipe
with tobacco, as they are fond to excess of smoking. A
piece of wood burned at both ends hangs from their arms,
as an amulet or charm against Avitchcraft, of which they are
much afraid. Some have strings of brass, copper, beads, or
fish bones polished by Avay of ornament. Dutch money,
such as gilders and skillingSj they also wear as pieces of
finery.
Women. The women are much lower in stature than the men,
and very ill made. The chief difference between the dress
of the male and female Hottentot is, that the latter wears
an apron of sheep-skin before and behind. The back, neck,
shoulders, and legs of the females are bare ; their hair is
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 89
covered by a little cap of sheep skin. Some of the higher
carder among them are very grotesque in their appearance.
1 have observed their heads ornamented with short plumes
of ostrich, turkey, and other feathers, mixed with strings of
brass beads, hollow inside, which made a strange jingling
noise. Round their arms and legs Avere several strings of
the same, or of fish bones. The rattling of these ornaments,
Avith the crackling of the sun-dried sheep skins, produces
an uncommon noise as they walk along ; and it is by the
loudness of this noise, that the rank of the wearer is de
noted. Several of the children and young girls, that I
saw, Avere tolerably Avell made, and had some appearance
of symmetry in their shape and make; for whilst young,
the Hottentots are far from being so deformed as one might
imagine from seeing them when full grown. The Avomen
soon lose every appearance of symmetry, the belly pro
trudes, and the posteriors also become remarkably large
and prominent. The great hollow in the loAver part of
the back towards the spine, and the Avonderful prominency
of the parts beneath, form indeed a marked characteristic
of the females of this race. But few of the men are shaped
in this remarkable manner ; some indeed are so in a slight
degree, yet I haA'e seen many as straight and well built
men among the Hottentots, as among any other black race.
The protuberances of the avo men's bodies, before and behind,
give their shapes the appearance of an S ; and to attain
this form completely is accounted a great beauty. The
protuberances seem composed of one large loose mass of
N

90 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
fat, and when they walk, these shake and quiver like a
pyramid of jelly. It is a current opinion here, that this
part of the body of a Hottentot woman will not dissolve
or putrify after death, along with the other parts of their
flesh, but Avill remain in a mass, not unlike spermaceti. The
print Avhich is given by M. Vaillant of another peculia
rity in the female structure, I can affirm, from the coin
ciding testimony of many good judges at the Cape, to be
extremely incorrect ; but the discussion of this subject I leave
to scientific researchers.
Huts- The huts of the Hottentots are miserably poor and small,
shaped like a bee-hive, with a small hole or door-way,
through which they are obliged to creep on all fours. The
fire place is always in the centre of the hut, to allow the
Avhole family to sleep round it, which they always do Avith
their feet towards the fire ; and as their fires are generally
made of green Avood, the smoke is intolerable to others,
although from habit endurable to themselves. To this
cause is to be attributed the dull appearance of their eyes,
and the soreness with which most of them seem affected.
The constant smoke, however, has the effect of keeping
off flies and other vermin, engendered in the filth and cor
rupted pieces of flesh and guts, Avhich are every where scat
tered about their huts. The houses of every distinct tribe
are ranged in a form nearly circular, or like a crescent;
and during the day they lie Avithout, in the open space
before their huts, basking in the sun.
Dogs. A number of ugly looking half-starved dogs constantly
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 91
attend them, of which they are very fond ; as they are use
ful to them in hunting, and are also trained to take care
of their cattle, and frighten off Avokes and hyenas. The
Dutch keep a number of these animals for the same pur
pose ; they are large and strong, and much resemble that
species called the Avolf dog.
I Avas highly entertained by seeing a number of flottentots Amuse ments.
dance to an instrument played on by a young Avoman. It
was a piece of deal board, three feet long and one broad ; four
or five strings of brass Avire Avere stretched along it, and sup
ported at each end by bridges or bits of upright wood,
like those of our fiddles. In this rude sort of guitar, which
they called a gabowie, was inserted a piece of looking
glass, of Avhich they are immoderately fond. It was fixed
in the centre of the board; and the young woman who
played, kept stedfastly looking at herself in it, and grinning
with great complacency at the beauty of her round hunched
figure. She kept touching the wires with a quill, whilst
a dozen of the men formed a ring round her, dancing and
violently beating the ground with their feet and sticks ;
they continued also incessantly to place themselves in the
most grotesque attitudes, yet still with some reference to
the player. Another woman, for the females it would seem
are the musicians, and the men the dancers, accompanied
the former on a goura. This instrument is formed by
strings of dried gut, or sinews of deer, twisted into a cord
and fastened to a hollow stick, about three feet in length,
by a peg, which, on being turned round, brings the cord to
n 2

92 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,
a proper degree of tension. At the other end, the cord is-
placed on quills ; and the instrument is played on by ap
plying the mouth to the quills, which by the successive processes
of respiration and inspiration, produce a faint noise like an
Eolian harp. I Avas very nearly the innocent cause of
turning their mirth into a bloody quarrel ; for on throAving
amongst them a few pieces of small coin, they began to
scramble for them with the utmost violence ; the men had
even recourse to their clubs, and several severe blows had
passed between them, before the effects of my inadvertent
liberality could be done aAvay. HoAvever I did not leave
them till harmony Avas restored, and they had resumed
their amusements. They first, hoAvever, endeavoured to
procure something more from me, and begged hard for
brandy, which is their favourite liquor.
The Dutch have ever held the Hottentots in the greatest
contempt, and never thought them worth an attempt to intro
duce civilization among them. A very unjust opinion has ever
been held out, that in understanding, and the poAvers of the
mind, they scarcely deserve to be ranked with human creatures ;
and are but little above the level of the brute creation.
Whenever I asked a Dutchman any question concerning
them, he looked as if he thought the subject too contemp
tible to deserve an ansAver. When I first arrived at the
Cape, and saAV the miserable kraels I have just mentioned,
and tbe wretched inhabitants absolutely in that state . of
nature described by travellers, I OAvn that my opinion of.
them was little different from that of the Dutch. But Avhen
2

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 93
a feAV years afterAvards I saAV the corps of Hottentots ih;
our service, and conversed Avith the English officers who
had an opportunity of knowing" them, and the qualities
they naturally possessed, as well as the state they Avere ca
pable of being brought to, I had reason to conceive a
more favourable opinion of the dispositions, as well as the
talents of a Hottentot- This corps formed a regiment, up
wards of seven hundred strong, many of them fine, actiAe,
and soldier-like fellows ; they seemed well disciplined, and'
many exhibited a pride in their gait, that Avould do credit
to an European soldier. They seemed much attached to
the English; and Avhen sent at different periods into the
interior, against the Caffrees and Boschies, Avith other de
tachments, they proA7ed equally faithful and obedient, and
shewed a degree of courage and discipline, evidently the
effect of the attention paid them by their British officers.
Much praise is due to Major Fielder King of tlie 91st regi
ment, for the good discipline and management of that corps.
Should ever the Cape fall permanently into the hands
of Great Britain, those people under proper management,
may speedily arrive at a great degree of civilization.
Their industry may be excited, and be turned to pro
duce the most important advantages to the colony. By
instructing them in the arts of husbandry, by accus
toming them to a mild and equitable treatment, by granting
them those rights which ought to be common to tlie Avhole-
human race, although barbarously withheld from them by
the Dutch ; the Hottentots would speedily be allured from

94 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the remote parts and Avilds of the interior of Africa, to co
lonize the country nearer the Cape. The progress of civi
lization Avould soon inspire those already in the colony
Avith confidence in themselves, as a people who have a cer
tain part to act in life, and recover them from that state
of utter degradation to which they have been reduced ;
Avhile the knowledge of the comforts of life, and the means
by Avhich they are to be procured, Avould stimulate them to
exertions of which they are at present incapable. Let this
mode of conduct be once adopted toAvards them, and its
good effects will soon appear on the face of the country ;
advantages will speedily be obtained that perhaps have
never hitherto even been thought of.
The people of the interior, the Caffrees and Boschies, may
in the same manner be gradually conciliated, by promot
ing a friendly intercourse betAveen them and the Hotten
tots, hitherto under the authority of the Europeans, instead
of keeping up a desultory warfare against them, which can
never be attended Avith any good effects. Those people,
like Cain, fly from the face of man, and with him they
may justly exclaim, "Where shall I hide myself? my race
is detested, is accursed ; every man beholds me Avith detes
tation, and seeks my destruction." These strong terms do
not overdraw the wretched state of the Hottentots, for the
Dutch actually hunted them like wild beasts, and destroy
ed them wherever they met Avith them. This naturally
enraged the wild Hottentots, Avho had not yet lost all the
feelings of men, and excited them often to make excursions

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 95
against both the Dutch planters, and those Hottentots -who
acknoAvledged their authority. Yet it Avas not for the sake
of shedding blood, nor from an implacable sanguinary dis
position, as the Dutch were willing to have it believed, that
these unfortunate people made incursions on their oppres
sors ; they seldom did so, but to retaliate some recent injury,
to recover their cattle Avhich had been torn from them,
and to enforce their own security in those Avild and barren
tracts, to which they had been driA'en. These facts, disgraceful
to the possessors of the Cape, will be confirmed by the united
testimony of all who have long resided at this colony, and
have candour enough to confess what they have Avitnessed.
The Boschies Hottentots, in some respects, differ from The Boschies
those Avho live nearer the Cape and acknoAvledge the Dutch
authority. A few that I saw at Cape ToAvn seemed to me to
differ externally, merely in colour; they being yellower and
not of such a dirty hue as those of the colony. In co
lour they resemble the Chinese, and are not unfrequently
called here, Chinese Hottentots. This difference of colour
is probably occasioned by their not so often anointing their
bodies with soot, grease, buckee powder, and such like pre
parations; for the young Hottentots of every description
are of a much brighter yellow than those grown to manhood,
on whom those preparations have had time to take effect.
The Boschies are looked on as of a more cruel, hardened,
and savage disposition than the Hottentots at the Cape, al
though I could discover nothing of this in the appearance
of those I saw.

96 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
This race are undoubtedly mortal enemies to the Dutch
nation ; but their hatred originates from the cruel and unjust
manner in Avhich they have been treated. No endeavours
have ever been made by the Dutch to civilize them, and
to make them more tractable or of use to the colony. This
¦however might, Avithout difficulty, be effected by adopting
proper measures, if we can form an opinion from such of that
people as have been made slaves, and remained in the service
of the colonists, or those who voluntarily become hired ser-
A-ants. When the Dutch first settled here, none of that
barbarous or Aindictive disposition, Avhich is supposed to
characterise the Boschies, appeared, as the Hottentots of
every part cheerfully assisted the colonists, aud entered into
traffic Avith them ; till being dispossessed of their inheri
tance, both land and cattle, and gradually pushed back into
the more rude and uncultivated parts, they quite withdrew
from all connection Avith the Europeans, and to revenge
themselves, carried on a continual Avarfare against them, in
conjunction with their neighbours, the Caffrees. Though
sometimes desperate in their encounters, they are generally
extremely fearful and timid, and seldom stand Avhen at
tacked. Though acounted savage and inhuman, they often
treat accidental strangers, and white people, with gentle
ness and kindness. At times indeed they make incursions
against the colonists, kill them wherever they can find them
unprepared or unable to resist, and drive aAvay their cattle.
The colonists in the remote parts are in consequence often
obliged to desert their farms and assemble together to op-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. <)7
pos them. From their secret places the Boschies issue out
at night, and attempt the more distant and lonesome
houses. It is quite useless to pursue them in their retreat,
as they are so SAvift of foot, and so used to the mountains.
When closely pursued, they suddenly stop, and roll huge
stones down the steeps at their pursuers, or stopping be
hind a rock or thicket, aim Avith certain effect a poisoned
dart or arrow.
The planters pursue them Avith great avidity, and never
spare any, except for slaves. At certain places are posts
for the farmers to assemble with dogs, in order to hunt these
unfortunate people; and whenever they are surprised by
the Dutch, a cruel massacre never fails to ensue. The
government has scarcely ever taken cognizance of this bar
barous proceeding ; or if any notice was taken of it, it ser
ved only to sheAV what little account Avas made of the dic
tates of humanity. A feAV humane and virtuous citizens of
Cape Town, indeed, remonstrated against the inhuman
cruelty of the planters ; but their efforts have been at
tended with no success; and the Boschies are still left to
the mercy of the unprincipled peasants, who chuse to seize
their properties, and either murder the possessors or re
duce them to the more lamentable fate of slaves for
life. It is not to be denied that if this colony Avere in our hands,
a considerable difficulty would be felt in restoring that har
mony between the planters and the Boschies, Avhich a long-
course of injuries on the one hand, and revenge on the
O

98 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
other, have so completely banished. Of this Ave have had
a signal example when it was last in our possession ; and
it was not without the aid of a military force, that either
the Dutch peasants could be restrained from the reneAving
their atrocities, or the Hottentots from committing the most
cruel acts of retaliation.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 99

CHAPTER VI.
Description qf the Country round Wineberg. — An Encamp
ment and Quarters for Troops — Some Military Observa
tions on this Post — Fertility of the neighbouring Country —
Fai^ns and Plantations numerous — Game plenty — Wild
Animals — Village of Round Bosch — Tiger Hill — First View
of the Cape Town from this Side — Table Bay — The Hills
and Country round described — Description of Cape Town — .
Remarks by the Author on the Mode of attacking the
Batteries — Amsterdam Battery — The Castle — Situation qf
Cape Town — Streets — Healthiness of it — Regulations of the
Dutch to prevent Infectious Disorders — Company's Gardens
— Government House.
W INEBERG itself is a level low plain, thickly covered Description
in various places, where the sandy tracts do not interfere, andthecoun-
with shrubs and brush-Avood, which in India Avould be
called jungle. Parallel to this tract, on the left hand, the
ground gradually rises to the hills at the back of Hoet's
and Chapman's Bay, and runs all the way to Witte Boem
and the angle of the Tigerberg, (commonly called Devil
Hill) and the back of the Table Mountain. This more
eleArated tract is covered with heath, long grass, floAvers,
and a few bushes, which in the dry season catch fire and
often burn with great fury, endangering the encampment
o 2

100 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and houses which the troops occupy on the rising, ground
at Wineberg. A circumstance of this kind occurred whilst
Military ob- I Avas there, and alarmed us very much. Wineberg is more
servations on
the nature of a post of communication, and a salutary quarter for troops
this post. than a station for the purposes of defence ; for there are no
batteries here nor guns, except the field-pieces attached to
the troops in the encampment. Yet it still presents several
obstructions to an enemy on his march to attack Cape
ToAvn. The ground is broken, rugged, and uneven; hollow
sandy defiles intermixed with small eminences lie continually
in the AAray. These are thickly covered in particular spots
with Ioav shrubs and brush-wood, from whence troops might
annoy an enemy with much advantage, and render his ap
proach extremely difficult and dangerous. A strong force
Avould be required to occupy this position, as the tract of
country projecting from the hills parallel Avith Wineberg,
and on to the back of Tiger and Table Hills, form a very
extensive tongue of land, and all a flat. Troops may avoid
Wineberg altogether by detouring to the right ; and ap
proaching Cape Town between Round-a-Bosch and the sea,
skirting the shore towards the head of Table Bay, where
the country is more bare and sandy, and affords less cover
for the troops opposing the advancing army. To obviate
this circumstance, there is a long chain of batteries and
redoubts along the shore, upwards of a mile from Cape
ToAvn, and running crosswise to the foot of the Tiger
Hill, Avhich there comes closer to the sea, and renders the
ground for the approach of an enemy narroAver. From the
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 101
vicinity of Wineberg commence the cultivated parts ; a
number of excellent houses and plantations belonging to
the Dutch gentlemen and farmers, lie along on each side of
the road, Avhich begin now to be solid, even, and regu
larly made ; for hitherto it Avas no more than a path through
loose heavy sand.
The country noAV puts on a rich and verdant appearance ; Fertility of
J the country
several very fertile fields appear, producing grapes, European around.
Avheat, barley, carrots, turnips, and many kinds of garden-
stuffs and fruits, besides those natural to this country and
climate. Game of A^arious sorts is to be met with all the Game in
way from hence to the back of the hills. In my shooting gre
excursions I have met with the steen bock, the spring
bock, small antelope hares, the beautiful small deer called
gazelle or mouse deer, not larger than the hare ; the
diving goat or dyker bock, so called from its jumping and
diving amongst the bushes and sedgy grass, along side the
marshy tracts, where it always keeps when pursued. Quails,
partridges, Cape pheasants, Cape lowries, a kind of grouse,
snipe, wild pigeons, and doves, are found here in abundance.
Kingfishers, several birds of the crane kind, and the flamingo,
are likewise seen, although this last bird is very scarce at
this side the peninsula. There are also several beautiful
birds of the thrush kind, of various colours, some black,
others red, yelloAV, and green. The sugar bird appears
here with a very long bill, and the tongue extending a great
way out of its mouth, yet not thicker than a knitting
needle. This instrument these birds thrust into the flowers,

102 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and extract the SAveets. They have tAvo very long narrow
feathers in their tails, and are of a beautiful greenish colour.
Several other species of small birds are found here, parti
cularly the humming birds and fly birds, remarkable for
their diminutive size. There are also several species of bull
finches and sparroAvs Avith variegated and beautiful plumage.
Some of those I brought home stuffed were highly valued
on that account.
Land turtles are seen in great numbers crawling under
the traveller's feet. I have met but few of the reptile
kind, although there are some poisonous species, as the
puff-adder, the spring-adder, which springs backwards, and
is on that account exceedingly dangerous to strangers or
people not acquainted with its mode of attack ; also the
frog-snake, and whip-snake, or long green snake. I neA^er
met with the covre capelle or hooded -snake, so common
and so destructive in Asia, though I Avas informed that it
is an inhabitant of this country.
For the last five miles the prospect presented on the road
to Cape ToAvn is highly delightful. The road itself is
hard, smooth, and leArel ; and a number of excellent houses
belonging to the wealthy burghers and principal people of
Village of Cape Town, are thickly scattered on each side. You now
Bosch. proceed for a couple of miles along this shady road, passing
the little village of Round-a-Bosch, or Round Wood, on your
right. It is situated on the extensive and elevated plain,
where the troops composing the garrison of Cape ToAvn
generally encamp during the dry season. This is a re-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 103
markably healthy and convenient spot, as the troops have
but a little Avay to march to their field-day exercise. There
is no ground between Cape Toavii of sufficient extent for
that purpose. General Dundas occupied a very elegant
house here which he hired from a Dutchman.
After leaving Round-a-Bosch and proceeding tAvo miles fur- Tiger i-inx
ther, you find yourself on a line Avith the foot of Tiger or
Devil Hill, Avhich rises on your left hand ; and on your
right is the head of Table Bay, which with the toAvn iioav
opens to vieAV. Here the stranger is greatly struck Avith I'irst view of
Cape Town.
the grand, beautiful, and variegated appearance of the
prospect before him, and on each side of him ; and his plea
sure is still more heightened by the different appearance of
the uncouth, barren, and sandy tract, which he has just
traversed. Nothing can exceed the general effect of this scenery. On Grand and
your right hand appears the meadows and Ioav lands, the view from
batteries and redoubts stretching along the shore, the scat- the town and
tered ranges of store-houses, hospitals, arsenals, and guard- ay'
houses connected Avith those batteries, and with the different
posts. The long sandy and circular beach, bordering the
Table Bay, comes close up here and boldly sweeps round
in the form of a crescent. The Table Bay presents itself
full in vieAV with the men of war, and various other vessels
at anchor, Avhile numerous ships are seen coming in and
going out under full sail. The country beyond the bay to
the right gradually ascends from the shore in small green
sheep hills, while the high hills and mountains stretch along

104 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in one great unbroken range. On the left hand appears
the Tiger Hill which you are immediately under ; the re
doubts and batteries regularly slope down its sides from
near the summit to where you stand. The Table Moun
tain, so awfully grand, rises majestically above all the rest.
The deep chasms in its sides are relieved by the Com
pany's gardens at its foot, and the plantations and gardens
Avhich skirt the back of the town, while the groves of
silver and other trees scattered in various places appear
sprouting out of the rocky eminences. The Liewen's Koep
or Lion's Head, so called by the Dutch, and by us com
monly the Sugar Loaf, from its conic form, seems attached
to the Table Mountain ; and beyond the Lion's Head, the
LieAven's Staart or Lion's Rump, extends like a half-moon
till it comes opposite to where you stand, and terminates
close to the shore of Table Bay a mile beyond the town
in a sloping green point. Immediately opposite appears the
town like an amphitheatre, large, regular, and well built.
The houses are all well plastered and white-Avashed, and
this adds considerably to the uncommon neatness of its
appearance from a distance. Beyond the town the Amster
dam and Chevone batteries, near the edge of the bay and
close to Green Point, complete this noble and grand view,
Avhich is scarcely equalled in any part of the world. Such
is the delightful prospect presented to the traveller on his ap
proach to Cape Town ; nor is he less struck with the new
appearances which present themselves when he comes more
minutely to examine the place and its various inhabitants.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 105
The Cape Town is pleasantly situated, nearly parallel to Cape Town.
the upper end of Table Bay, on a sloping sandy or rather
gravelly plain, Avhich rises Avith an easy ascent to the foot
of the three great hills, the Tiger Hill, the Table Moun
tain, and the Lion's Head. With the Lion's Head is con
nected the Lion's Rump, which defends Table Bay from
the Avesterly winds, and skirting the shore forms a barrier
to the toAvn from that side. Tavo very strong batteries Chevone and
are placed here facing the sea ; that nearest the Green Point batteries.
is called the Chevone. It has, level Avith the sea, one
great tier of guns, and farther back, but more elevated,
another range, with a flanking redoubt at each end, to en
filade both edges of the shore. This battery is capable of
greatly annoying ships standing into the bay, immediately
on their rounding Green Point. A quarter of a mile from
this battery, and toAvards the town, is another strong bat
tery called the Amsterdam, Avith a rampart round it, and
bomb proof. There are casements and magazines inside, where
prisoners of Avar are generally confined. It is capable of con
taining at least two hundred troops, in the ranges of
barracks and store houses in the body of the work. The
Amsterdam battery is well defended on the land side by
several pieces of cannon, planted on the rampart, which is
not the case Avith the Chevone; this last having only a
range of guard houses for the troops on duty, and a small
arsenal for military stores. Troops attacking this latter Author's
post haye to encounter little obstruction from the land cer^Jthdr
side. The loAver tier of guns could never be brought to Sid" with
p success.

106 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
bear, except towards the sea, and a coup-de-main might
easily carry the upper. I would not, however, lead my coun
trymen into an error, by representing the obstacles in their
way as trifling, should it ever be their object to attack the
Cape Town by sea from the Table Bay side. Having been
several times on guard at the Chevone in the year 179o\
I had an opportunity of minutely observing the several
defences at this side of the toAvn; and of considering the
way most likely to succeed in making an attack from thence.
Those tAvo batteries, the Chevone and the Amsterdam, are
certainly very terrific in their appearance, and might render
it a hazardous business for ships to attempt an entrance
into the bay; yet Avere the Chevone once mastered, and
some ships drawn up abreast of the Amsterdam, it could
not possibly long hold out, especially when attacked Avith
that ardour and spirit which I have so often witnessed in
our brave seamen.
It would be necessary at the same time, for the sake of
co-operation, to land troops at the back of Green Point,
where, though some parts are shoally, there are partial
spots of sandy beach without much surf, and only a feAV
small batteries or guns planted at intervals. Kickein de
Potte, as the Dutch name a small battery here, could not
make much resistance; and the distance from thence to
the Chevone is Aery short. There is no good anchorage
opposite the Chevone ; a ship cannot anchor there, although
she may near the Amsterdam. Still if it were found im
possible to carry these batteries by assault, they might be

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 107
passed, and ships might keep at some distance towards the
other side of tlie bay. After passing the Amsterdam, there
are no batteries by the toAvn towards the sea, except a
small one at Raggou Bay; and the castle is too far off to
do much injury to the ships at anchor; indeed they may
anchor completely beyond its reach, at the distance of
three or four miles from it. The wind to serve for an
attack conducted in this manner, should be Avest, or west
north Avest. These observations are merely thrown out as
hints Avhich may be improved upon by officers of maturer
judgment and greater experience. The other side of the
toAvn is flanked by the Devil's Hill, which forms a barrier,
and shuts in the approaches from the Wineberg side, except
a narrow space between it and Table Bay. This space is
strongly fortified Avith lines, redoubts, and batteries, most
of them added by the English; for the Cape on our first
arrival Avas but in a poor state of defence, compared with
that in which it was left by us. Close to the entrance of The castle.
the town is the castle, Avhich is a large and extensive build
ing, of a pentagonal form, surrounded by a ditch, which
Was always dry during my stay there. The ramparts are
strong, and built of large blocks, of a kind of reddish gra
nite. A number of cannon are planted on the walls in
every direction, so as to command the approach, as well as
the town itself, and the part of Table Bay opposite. In
side the walls are tAvo regular oblong squares, in the outer
of which are barracks for a regiment of foot, with guard
houses at each side of the gateway, and over them a hand-
p 2

108 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
some mess-room for the officers. In the inner-square are
the quarters of the principal officers both civil and military.
The governor has apartments in the castle, though he sel
dom uses them. All the public offices of government are
in this square ; all the papers ' of consequence are lodged,
and all important business transacted in the castle.
Situation of The situation of Cape ToAvn is singularly well chosen ;
Cape Town. and the Dutch certainly deser\re great credit for the regu
larity and convenience Avith which it is laid out. It is di
vided by five streets, running in a parallel direction from
the shores or edge of the bay toAvards the Table Moun
tain, Avith five other streets, intersected by lanes at regular
intervals, Avhich cross the larger streets at right angles, and
run from one end of the toAvn to the other, beginning from
the street bordering the esplanade, and ending toAvards
the Lion's Rump. The Avhole toAvn is seen in one AieAv, al
though very large. You can land from the shipping in the
bay at any part of the beach, Avhich is bordered by a A7ery
long street, extending quite from the castle to the Amster
dam battery, upwards of a mile in length. This proves a
wonderful convenience to the trading ships, which can thus
take in Avater from several streams which run down from
the hills through the town in various parts of the beach.
Most of the streets are wide, airy, and spacious, planted
with oak trees entwined in each other, which shade the
houses and take off the great glare occasioned by the reflection
of the sun from the white houses, and from the Table Moun
tain. They also serve to break the violence of the south-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 109
east winds, to Avhich the town is much exposed. Several
of the streets have small canals of water running through
them, quayed and walled in, which, with the regular rows
of trees, and the uniformity of the streets, have a very fine
effect to the eye.
The officers and inhabitants frequently assemble to con
verse by the sides of those canals, and sit on the low walls
under the shade of the trees planted at their edges.
The streets in general are kept in tolerably good order.
A few of the principal ones are paved ; the rest, though
unpaved, are firm and hard from the nature of the soil,
Avhich is a solid bed of sandy clay, covered lightly with a
reddish gravel. The dust here is extremely disagreeable,
and flies about in astonishing quantities. When the south
east winds prevail with violence, one can scarcely see their
way through the streets ; indeed it is hardly possible to stir
out of doors. As soon as the south-east Avind makes its
appearance in any great degree, every house is close shut
up ; yet still this subtile sand will enter and cover the ta
ble and provisions. There is scarcely a bit of bread fit at
those periods to be eaten, it is so full of dust. EAren the
ships in the bay four or five miles from the shore, are not
exempt from their share in this nuisance ; the sand is soon,
perceived on the ropes, which acquire a harsh and gritty feel
in pulling. The roads are at this season, as it may easily be
imagined, in a still more disagreeable state. A Dutchman Avould
think himself in danger of being destroyed if he travelled at
that time. The inhabitants indeed seemed surprised at the
4

110 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
temerity and carelessness of our countrymen respecting those
evils. It is a great pity the streets of Cape ToAvn were
not all paved and regularly sweeped ; as by this means a
great deal of this inconvenience might be remedied at a
small expence.
Principal There are three squares in the toAvn. In the principal
jquares. one are several very excellent houses and handsome public
buildings. The Stadtliouse is a large expensive structure,
but very heavy. The vaults underneath are uncommonly
spacious, and are generally rented from government at a
great price, by the merchants, who store in them an im
mense quantity of wine. The high court of justice is held
in the Stadthouse, and the burghers also assemble here to
consider questions relative to the regulation of the town,
at the order of the fiscal or mayor, who under the Dutch
government has very great powers. In the second square
are held the markets, Avhere fruit, vegetables, and other ar
ticles are sold by the blacks and slaves for their masters.
The third square, called the Hottentot-square, is principally
the place where the Dutch boors and farmers resort to,
and where the Hottentots, who are waggon-drivers, put up.
All horses and cattle are bought and sold in this last
square, which is indeed rather a broad irregular space, si
tuated above the toAVn near the foot of the Lion's Rump.
Between the town and castle is another very large square, or
more properlya green level plain divided and bounded by
canals, which run down to the beach, and carry off the refuse of
the sewers. This is the grand parade of the garrison, and may
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Ill
be called the esplanade to the Castle* The barracks form
one side of this parade, and the town bounds it on the
other. Tlie extreme street which runs quite from the edge
of Raggou Bay up to the entrance of the Company's gar
den, a very long, handsome, and shady street, Avith a canal
before it, fronts the parade, and has a very pretty effect.
Table Bay and part of a new street by the water side,
form the third side of this esplanade ; and the castle closes
in the fourth.
At this side is the place of execution used by the Dutch Place of exe-
- cution.
for the punishment of their slaves and black criminals.
Upon a small inclosed eminence a rack and wheel, with a
couple of gibbets, are erected, as terrible warnings of the
cruelties ready to be exercised there. The barbarous mode
of putting criminals to the torture was abolished by the
English Governor immediately on his taking possession of
the Cape ; as a practice altogether incompatible with the
feelings of our countrymen. ' The Dutch always put their
malefactors to death by tlie severest torments, and generally
executed them by torch light. General Craig changed the
place of execution, and removed it to the Sandy Beach,
near the head of Table Bay. Amongst the instruments of
death employed by the Dutch, Avere found many disgrace
ful implements of torture, all of which were destroyed by
our people, as a reproach to human nature.
The barracks are veiy extensiAre, Avell-built, and with great The bar
racks.
regularity and neatness. They Avere originally intended for
an hospital, but have latterly been much enlarged by the

112 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Dutch, and tAvo additional wings built to them at the
angles. Those barracks are capable of containing three
regiments, one of them cavalry; and also magazines for
artillery, and stores for grain. At the back of one of the
Avings of this building is a long range of offices, where the
government slaves are kept ; and attached to it a house of
correction for slaves and people of colour committing petty
offences, Avho are taken out CA'ery morning to work at the
government offices, the batteries, or military buildings,
under the superintendance of the police officers. There are
separate wards for the males and females confined here ; and
on certain days a party of them are sent about under a
proper guard, to clean the streets of any dirt or nuisances.
A certain quantity of victuals is allowed to them daily at
the expense of government ; for the Dutch owners Avho send
refractory slaves, or those guilty of small petty offences,
hither for punishment, which they are obliged to do in
stead of punishing them with their own hands, (a very sa
lutary, useful, and proper regulation), do not support them
Avhilst they are thus deprived of their labour. Those slaves
are usually chained and coupled together, to prevent them
making their escape, and, when let out to work, are very
strictly and closely watched, till locked up again at night.
The prison for debtors is near the beach of Raggou Bay,
and here all criminal trials are held.
churches. There are a Calvinist and a Lutheran church belonging
to the town, both very handsome and spacious structures,
particularly the former, Avhere the Governor and military

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 1 13
go to hear divine service. The steeple of this church is
thatched with reeds, on account of the violent winds, which
would soon demolish any other species of covering.
There is an orphan-school in the town for children, be
longing to the lower orders and to the soldiery. A cer
tain number of these are annually receiAred and educated
at the expense of the government, till such time as they
are fit'tq be put to trades, or placed in the regiments or
public offices.
The English Governor established an hospital about a Hospital.
mile from the town near the head of Table Bay. It con
sists of a long range of buildings fronting the sea, and
great attention was paid to this department under our
government. The number of our sick, while Ave retained Cape Town
- , „ - . , very healthy,
possession of the Cape, was very lew in proportion to the
number of troops which composed the garrison. It has
been often known that out of five thousand men quartered
in the toAvn, and encamped round it, scarcely forty were in
the general hospital at one time, and very few of those
on account of malignant disorders, or such as are incident
to this climate. The English found the Cape to answer
their constitutions and habits much better than the natural
inhabitants of it, and were in general much more healthy
than the Dutch, Avhich must be principally attributed to
their different habits of living. The Cape, with great jus
tice, is esteemed the healthiest climate in the world. Our
troops being daily used to moderate exercise in the per
formance of their military manoeuvres, and having a suffi-
Q

114 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
cient and comfortable meal of plain beef and mutton, with
bread and vegetables, and a pint of Cape wine, continued
strong and healthy. Their distempers here chiefly pro
ceeded from a too free use of the common thin wine,
which is procured at a very cheap rate, and sometimes
causes boAVel complaints. Consumptions and ulcers seemed
the only distempers attended to any extent with fatal con
sequences to our countrymen. In some instances the smallest
sore on a man's leg has caused the loss of the limb ; and
the great change from hot to cold at certain periods of
the year, proves at times very destructive to consumptive
habits. The Dutch from their lazy, listless, inactive habits
of life, and excess in eating heavy gross food, are much
more subject to diseases than Our countrymen. Apoplexies,
dropsies, liver complaints, and eruptions all over their bodies,
are frequent among them. Of the meazles and small-pox
they are dreadfully afraid; and by the laAvs of their govern
ment no person infected with those disorders can land in
Regulations the colony. The instant a ship arrives in the Table Bay
to prevent and anchors, the doctor or health master, is sent on board
disorders! to inspect the state of the creAV, and a report of their
being in a healthy state must first be made to the Gover
nor before any person is allowed to land. Nay it is neces
sary for each individual to certify his having had the small
pox in Europe, with all the symptoms he can recollect of
the disease.
In different parts of the town are guard houses, and
stations where troops are constantly on duty ; in company

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE- 115
with the police officers they patrole the streets, and take up
all disorderly persons, and prevent any assemblages of the
slaves or black inhabitants, and drunken sailors.
The houses in Cape Town are large and spacious, and
in general built with great regularity and uniformity, most
of them three or four stories high. They are constructed
of brick or a reddish granite stone, plastered' and white
washed outside, and many highly stuccoed and painted ¦
within. The roofs are mostly flat with terraces, and are
covered with square red tiles, large, firm, and well cemented
together. This mode of roofing the houses is adopted to
prevent damage from the very violent winds ; and in the
hot season it also affords a pleasant place to walk or sit
in, and enjoy the prospect with the benefit of the sea breeze
wafting over the houses.
Those houses which are conically or slauntingly roofed, The houses.
are covered with thatch of reeds or straw of Indian corn,
remarkably well bound ; tiles, from the fury of the winds,
would soon be torn aAvay, and might severely wound or
crush to death the passengers in the streets. This last
manner of building the roofs of their houses is much dis
couraged, as accidents have in consequence frequently hap
pened from fire. During my stay at Cape Town two or
three alarming fires broke out, which were nearly being at
tended with very serious consequences; for the fire spreads
here much more rapidly than in any town of Europe,
owing to the nature of the materials used in building,
which the dry hot weather renders quite combustible.
0^2

116 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Many of the houses have pleasant gardens behind, and in
front a neat porch or stoop as the Dutch call it, raised a
feAv steps from the ground, and running the whole length
of the house. They are enclosed with a parapet or Avail
three or four feet high, and have a seat or bench at each
end, neatly flagged with red tiles highly polished, or blue
flags brought from Roben Island, which lies at some dis
tance out in the bay.
The houses are remarkably neat Avithin ; the rooms lofty
and Avell furnished. Nothing can exceed the cleanliness of
their floors ; all the lower part of the house is laid Avith
highly polished square red tiles, and the stair-cases and
upper rooms and galleries with oak kept in as good order
as our most Araluable mahogany dining tables. To have
the floors preserved in the most beautiful state seems to
be the first care of the lady of the house. The houses
are so Avell laid out as always to possess apartments which
are cool and refreshing at every season. It is often re
marked by Englishmen, that there are a greater number of
well built houses for its size at the Cape than in any town
in England. It seems crowded with inhabitants; although
we saAV it in its thinnest state, many of the Dutch citizens
having retired into the country on the English coming
before it.
Many new houses were erected by our countrymen, who
came out to settle here on commercial business, or in the
service of our government. Those houses are handsomely
built after the English style of brick retaining the natural
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 117
colour, Avhich is certainly much better on many accounts
than having them whitened ; a custom that in the' hot sea
son produces an insufferable glare.
Besides the offices attached to the back part of every
house, there are separate ranges and yards set apart for
the slaves, strongly palisadoed and barricaded to prevent
any communication Avith the former. Here those slaves who
are not highly in their confidence, or not bred up to house
hold offices, are locked up every night. At the north end
of the town, towards the Table mountain, are the Compa
ny's gardens, very extensive and elegantly laid out. At the
entrance which faces one of the principal streets extending
quite to the bay, is the town guard, Avhere a captain, two
subalterns, and one hundred men are daily on duty. The
canal at this end is very deep, and shamefully out of re
pair, the parapet being every Avhere broken down. This
circumstance occasioned a melancholy accident to an officer,
a passenger in the ship with me from India, on the first
day of his landing. Lieutenant HeAvey of the 77th, the
gentleman I alluded to, having left the house Avhere he
dined after dark, tumbled headlong into the canal and was
killed close by the guard. An officer of the navy broke
his leg a short time before, but still it was allowed to re
main in the same state, and probably still continues to do
so. At the entrance of the garden is a pair of very hand- Company v
some gates fronting the grand walk, which runs the whole gar ens'
length of the garden, and is as broad as the Bird Cage
Walk in St. James's Park. It is. neatly rolled and gra-r

118 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Arelled ; and each side is thickly planted with oak, low elms,
myrtle, laurel, and geraniums. On the left side is a canal,
which is always filled with water from the Table Moun
tain, and runs from the garden into the town. Through
an arch at one side of the entrance, you cross this canal
into the pleasure garden by a neat Chinese bridge. The
whole of this extensive piece of ground contains about
forty acres, regularly divided into four squares or quarters,
by broad walks crossing each other at right angles, planted
and bounded by thick hedges of those trees already men
tioned, from six to twelve feet high, Avith large lofty and
spreading trees, interspersed at intervals, and from their ex-
Govemment panded branches shading nearly the whole walk. In the
officej. nrst division on your left hand is the governor's house,
which is a very handsome and large building, having a
great number of rooms. From its being so near the Table
Mountain, and subject to the violent winds which rush
directly down ; the house is built only two story high.
The offices attached to it are many and well laid out, in
two separate ranges. One contains the kitchens, cellars, and
offices for the governor's servants; the other is for the
guards, slaves, stables, &c. In front of the house is a spot
laid out as a pleasure garden or shrubbery, with a foun
tain or basin of Avater, in the midst of Avhich are several
spouts and Avater works. You step at once into this
pleasant spot, from the grand Avalk by the Chinese bridge
already mentioned. There is here a botanical garden, where
a variety of curious exotics are reared ; several from Europe,
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 119
many from India, Otaheite, and other parts of the world.
Among others I have observed the tea plant, and bread
fruit tree. The Dutch destroyed several of the bread fruit
trees before they surrendered Cape Town to the English ;
and latterly they had neglected the botanic garden .very
much. When I first arrived at the Cape in 1796, it was
in the Avorst possible order, General Craig not having then
had leisure to attend to its improvement. When Lord
Macartney came here as governor, he ordered it to be re
planted and laid out, and procured a great number of very
curious plants from Asia, Europe, Africa, and South Ame
rica; most of Avhich thrived very Avell. On my return in
1801 to the Cape, I observed with much pleasure the very
great improvement made in this garden by the English,
who were ever actuated by -the most liberal spirit in every
transaction which could benefit the Cape, and have made
this garden of real use as well as ornament to the Town.-
The generosity of our countrymen in this excellent manage
ment and general improvement of the colony was the greater,
as it was never supposed with any confidence that it would
be retained by us as a permanent acquisition. Instead of
confining their attentions to the fortifications and the mili
tary economy of the settlement, which might have been
reckoned necessary for their own security, our governors
and other officers here were of singular benefit to the co
lony in pointing out the way to farther cultivation, and
commencing many valuable, improvements.
The division opposite the botanical garden is well planted

120 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Avith vegetables and garden stuffs of all kinds for the use of
the government house and the principal officers. Above this
is another larger space laid out in the same manner, to
supply the troops and shipping. This division Avas origi
nally laid out by the Dutch East India Company, for the
purpose of supplying their shipping Avhen they arrived, with
vegetables, &c. an article so essentially necessary to the health
of their people after a long voyage. Every ship got a cer
tain quantity daily, free of expense. The garden Avas so
large, and the attention paid to it so assiduous, that there
Avas ahvays enough to supply the shipping occasionally
touching here, as well as the troops in garrison. For the
last- two or three years before the arrival of the English,
the planting and dressing of this as Avell as the botanic
garden were much neglected; the reason they assigned was,
that on account of the war they could not procure the
proper supply of seeds from Europe ; and that those produced
at the Cape soon degenerate, and require to be renewed
with a fresh stock every three or four years. The sea-cole,
and the nopal, or prickly pear, thrive here in great abun
dance, being the natural produce of the country, and an
excellent substitute for cabbages and such like vegetables.
Fruit trees are planted in the borders of the several divi
sions of the garden, and are surrounded by hedges of Ioav
oaks, elms, laurel intermixed Avith myrtle and other spreading
trees of a thick foliage, to shelter them from the violent
winds, and to cool the walks in the heat of the summer
season. At the farther end of the garden is a place railed

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 121
in and palisadoed as a menagerie, Avhere the Dutch govern
ment keep African Avild beasts and animals of every descrip
tion, as Avell as those they could procure from other parts
of the Avorld.
This menagerie was uncommonly well filled, and greatly
superior to any thing of the kind known in this country.
It is indeed difficult to say, whether the menagerie or the
aAnary was tlie most completely stocked with rare and cu
rious animals. Previous to- the arrival of the English, the
Dutch Governor disposed of most of this collection, and very
few of the rarer animals Avere left behind. I had an oppor
tunity of seeing a large collection at the house of a Dutch
man, Mynheer de Boers, at Cape ToAvn, who had bought
a number from government, and besides had collected
others himself, and afterAvards exposed them to public view
for a dollar.
The ostriches were quite tame and domesticated ; I fre
quently saAV nine or ten grazing in the fields round the
toAvn, and in the streets, picking up any thing that came
in their way. I have often seen them SAvallow stones, pieces
of iron, and old nails. Those creatures were quite fami
liar, and allowed the little black boys to get on their backs
and ride them about. Every evening these ostriches re
turned to their OAvner's house, as cows would to their milk
ing place.
That beautiful animal, of the horse species, called zebra,
I have also seen quietly grazing in the fields above the
toAvn, It is asserted by naturalists, that the zebra could
R

122 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
never be tamed or brought to a docile and tractable state ;
yet I have myself Avitnessed the contrary ; and can contra
dict the accounts of this animal's untameable disposition,
from having seen him, with my own eye, as gentle and as
inoffensive as the patient ass, picking up thistles by the
side of the road.
At the upper end of the garden stands a wine-house, or
tavern, with a billiard- table and skittle-ground ; where the
inhabitants amuse themselves, and the officers from the
ships frequently go to dine.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 123

CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Table Bay — Best Season for anchoring then-
Subject to violent North- West Winds in the Winter Season
—Loss of the Sceptre Man of War— Hills about Cap<'
Toivn — Appearance of Table Mountain — Remarkable Clouds
over it, prognosticating the Weather — The different Climates
at the Cape — Difference between the Effects of each Season.
X ABLE Bay, which takes its name from the high land Table Bay.
immediately over Cape Toavii, is a Arery large commodious
harbour, washing and bordering the north-Avest shore of this
peninsula, as False Bay does the south-east. It lies in its situation.
33° 55' south latitude, and 18* 30' east longitude. In the Proper sea
son for an-
su miner season, from September till May, Table Bay is a choringthere.
safe and secure harbour, as the wind is generally from the
south-east quarter during that period, and blows out of the
bay. At that season, a ship if she parts from her anchors
has nothing to do but to stand out to sea, and Avait till
the violence of the south-east wind is over. The north- Subject to
... .11 ,i-, violent north-
West winds that bloAV full into the bay, are attended with west winds
the utmost danger, and cannot be avoided, as they find the
A^essels on a lee shore. They rarely indeed rise to any de
gree of violence except in the winter season, at which pe
riod ships on that account never remain here ; nor are
they suffered by government to remain here till September ;
for fear of being surprized by these winds, Avhich has sometimes
r2

124 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
been the case ; and if in that event they part with their
anchors, they must be unavoidably lost. A melancholy in
stance of this occurred in the loss of the Sceptre man of
Avar a feAv years ago. A violent and unexpected north-Avest
wind coming on, she parted from her anchors and drove on
shore, Avhere she Avas in a very short time knocked to pieces
and most of her officers and crew lost. It is a very great
disadvantage to this bay, and all others at the Cape, that
shipping cannot be hoAre down and repaired thoroughly,
OAving to the nature of the shores of this peninsula, and the
violent Avinds Avhich suddenly spring up, and would prove in
evitable destruction to a vessel if caught by them while re
fitting. Our fleets have felt this inconvenience very much
whilst on this station. The only instance knoAvn of refitting
a vessel here was that which I have already mentioned, by
orders of Admiral Elphinstone, Avhich Avas fortunately at
tended with success.
From the shore to the foot of Table Mountain, there is
about a mile and a half rising on a gentle slope. The ef
fect which the town and mountains have on the eye, from
a vessel at anchor in the bay, is uncommonly striking.
The back of Cape Town is bounded by a long range
of mountains extending in the form of a crescent, and
Table Hill, bounding it from both sides. The Table Hill, Avhich lies
nearly in the centre of the range, is calculated to be four
thousand feet above the level of the sea. It derives its
name from the level surface of its summit. Its north front
directly faces the toAvn, and rises in a bold perpendicular

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 125
form, having one great chasm in its middle, and divided
by another from the two great hills called the Tiger Moun
tain and. the Lion's Head, Avhich form wings to the Table
Mountain. On the left is the Tiger Hill, at the entrance Tiger Hill.
to the toAvn from Wineberg; it is called Tiger Hill, from
its being formerly much infested with those animals.
On the right of the Table, is the Lion's head, commonly Lion's Head.
called by our people the Sugar Loaf Hill, from its conical
summit. Those three hills, extending six miles in length,
may be looked upon as having originally formed one moun
tain ; for they seem to have been separated by some sub
sequent convulsion of nature. The Sugar Loaf Hill is loAver
and steeper than the Table, being almost quite perpen
dicular. General Craig ordered a gun to be planted on
the top of it, to give signals of the approach of shipping.
It was dragged up by the English sailors and soldiers with
great difficulty and labour, by means of ropes and pullies.
A signal post and flags were placed here to denote the num
ber and appearance of the shipping in sight, and a guard
house for a few men on duty.^-[The Dutch had signals to
denote if any of the different bays were possessed by an
enemy, by means of different coloured flags, changed
monthly, and known only to the Governor and the Captains
of ships, so that the latter might not run into any of the bays
and be taken in the net.J — Adjoining the Sugar Loaf, is the LionsRump,
Liewers Starrt, or Lion's Rump, so called from the resem
blance it bears to a lion in a couching posture. This hill
is neither so high nor so steep as the former. There are

126 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
also guns and posts erected all along this hill ; Avhich receives
the alarm from the former, and communicates it to the town
and castle iu a feAV moments. The whole surface of the Lion's
Rump has a pleasant, fresh and green appearance. Houses
and plantations are scattered on the declivity, and towards
the extremity of it, Avhich extends quite to the bay and
incloses the toAvn, as I before mentioned, at Green Point.
The ride is beautiful, from the extensive view it commands,
as you pass along the slope of the hill, and ascend towards
the top. The. English officers marked out a race ground
near it, Avhere they were accustomed to have during their
stay here, some races every month, and a grand match once
a year, which lasted for some days. This has been attend
ed Avith one very beneficial effect to the colony, that since
racing commenced at the Cape, the breed of horses has
been considerably improved.
The Table Mountain and the Lion's Head are but in
differently covered Avith verdure ; indeed I may say, they are
almost completely bare, and even the very feAV trees and
bushes Avhich grow up and doAvn are Avithered and stunted
with the violent south-east winds, and have a pale and
blighted appearance. FeAV of them groAV to more than six
feet in height, and those feAV are generally found sheltered
by the cliffs, and Avatered by rills of water gushing from
the rocks, Avhich preserve them in the dry season, and ren
der them healthy and vigorous. The Table Mountain is
a very great object of curiosity. No stranger Avho visits the
Cape should let slip the opportunity of visiting it and gaining

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 127
its summit from whence he will be highly gratified by one of
the noblest prospects in the universe. Indeed every person
Avho has strength sufficient to undergo the fatigue of as
cending, eagerly seizes the opportunity of enjoying this gra
tification. It is, however, a Avork of some difficulty, and
even danger, to arrive at the top ; and requires the assis
tance of skilful guides to point out the easiest paths,
and hoAV to avoid the chasms and rocks which so fre
quently intercept the ascent of the traveller. The moun
tain is also much infested with runaway slaves, belonging
to the Dutch inhabitants of the Cape Town, who lurk
about in the caverns and recesses of the mountain, and
sometimes attack travellers who are not sufficiently pro
tected by numbers. Though feAV instances have occurred
of murder being committed by those people, yet they are
very apt to rob and plunder. It has been found a very
difficult attempt to root out those depredators, as they
have so many hiding places, and are so Avell acquainted
with every corner of the mountain. At night those un
fortunate creatures who fly hither from the cruel usage of
their masters, and who have not an opportunity of reliev
ing their wants by plunder, steal into the skirts of the
town to obtain a supply of provisions from some of their
old comrades and brother slaves, with whom they keep up
a correspondence. But the risk you run of meeting with any of those run
away slaves is by no means equal to the danger of being
overtaken with those thick and fleecy clouds which so fre-
7

128 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
quently envelope the mountain. Before you venture to ex
plore the Table Hill, it is highly necessary, if you are not
perfectly acquainted Avith the climate of the Cape yourself,
to ask the opinion and advice of an experienced inhabitant
of the town; for the mountain is often suddenly covered
with thick clouds, Avhich would prevent a traveller from
finding his Avay back for two or three days. On this ac
count it is necessary to wait till certain appearances of the
Aveather indicate that no immediate danger from those
clouds is to be expected. The inhabitants of the Cape,
from long observation, are well acquainted with all the
symptoms of the approaching Aveather. The appearance of
tAvo remarkable clouds over the summit of the mountain
enables them, with a great degree of certainty, to prog
nosticate what weather will folloAV. From the quarter
av hence they proceed, their first formation, colour, and the
manner in which they bend their course, a Dutchman will
tell with little danger of ever being deceived, what will be
the consequence. He will be able to inform you of an
approaching south-east wind, and whether it will be violent
and lasting, or light and passing. Those fleecy clouds which
envelope the mountain, and are generally the forerunner
of a violent south-east wind, are really singular and curious
in their appearances, as Avell as extraordinary in their ef-*
fects, which depend very much upon their manner of for
mation. On the first appearance of those clouds they are
small, of a dark bluish colour, and are seen coming over
the summit of Table Hill from the south, and passing on
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, Tiff
¦toAvards the Tiger Hill in a slow progressive maimer, gra
dually increasing, into one vast cloud Avhich covers the
mountain; Avhen a terrible south-east Avind immediately
ensues. Sometimes these clouds last for several days toge
ther ; though it often happens that the violence of the south
east Avind .lasts a long time after they disappear. When
this immense body of clouds is formed, it is seen descend
ing and rolling furiously doAvn the mountain toAvards the
town, Avhich a stranger would imagine it Avas about to
enter ; and the threatening appearance of these volumes
might- seem to portend some alarming consequences to the
health of the inhabitants ; but on being arrived better than
half way cIoavii this phenomonon vanishes ; for it never
comes within a certain distance of the foot of Table Hill.
As those clouds are ahvays the forerunners of an ap
proaching south-east Avind, it is a common observation Avith
the Dutch to say Avhen they see their first formation,
" that the Devil is going to dinner, and that he has laid
the cloth on Table Mountain." They then shut up their
windows and doors, and keep in their houses till the storm
is over.
During the time I was at the Cape I made several ex
cursions to the Table Mountain, and succeeded in arriving
at the summit three times ; those clouds having in my
other attempts prevented me from prosecuting my journey
the whole way. Each time I went up by a different
route, and found them all extremely difficult and fatiguing.
The most convenient and least intricate Avas from Wine-
S

130 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
berg by the back of the mountain, but this way was
much less interesting than from the sides in view of Cape
Town ; and I had little more gratification in the journey
than the prospect from the top. Though the passage up
from Wineberg is much easier, yet being at so great a
distance from Cape Town, it is only used by those officers
quartered here, and their occasional visitors.
The general Avay by Avhich travellers residing at Cape
ToAvn ascend, is by the north-side of the mountain imme
diately facing the town. On taking this route you pro
ceed through the Company's gardens, at the upper end of
Avhich is a gate that brings you quite beyond the outskirts.
From this you proceed for nearly a mile by a gradual ascent,
the Avay very rough, rocky, and uneven ; after Avhich you
come to a most aAvful and grand chasm, that seems to
divide the table into two parts, and extends to within a
short distance of the summit. On my arrival at this immense
cleft I found the benefit of an experienced guide^ The chasm
is seen to some distance at sea, and there are besides several
smaller ones on its north-side. The great chasm is upwards
of seventy yards in breadth, and slightly covered here and
there with small trees, and shrubs sprouting out of the rocks.
The echo Avhich reverberates here is tremendous, and the
sensations of the stranger who ascends are intermingled with
astonishment, anxiety, and apprehension. After getting out
of the chasm you have to get oA'er the rugged paths inter
cepted by projecting rocks and cliffe, Avhich renders the
journey very tiresome and difficult. After surmounting these

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 131
obstacles I at last arrived at the summit, which forms a
level plain, interspersed with a feAV small ponds of water.
I found the air here colder than in Cape Town by at least
15 degrees; although in several parts of the journey up,
the heat was very distressing.
The prospect from the top of Table Hill, hoAvever, amply
recompenced the toils of attaining it. It was extensive,
almost beyond any idea my imagination had formed : the
height from the summit to the level of the sea being
reckoned about 4000 feet, and from the outskirts of
the town near 3600. The ocean was extended all around
as far as the eye could reach ; except where the horizon
was terminated by the distant mountains of Hottentot
Holland and Caffree land. Every part of the colony, its
mountains, its shores, its bays,, and its plains were extended
beneath my feet; yet my eye after throAving around on
these objects a look of admiration, returned with a degree
of more eager interest to observe the appearances of the
beautiful cultivated spot which I had just left. The height
at which I was now placed above Cape ToAvn was in
finitely greater than the top of St. Paul's, from Avhich I
had viewed London; and I amused myself Avith comparing
the appearances Avhich the tAvo cities presented. At my
present eleAration above Cape Toavii, it Avas with difficulty
I could see the Avaggons moving in the streets, while the
people who Avere passing to and fro could only be distin
guished as little black spots. The town itself, Avith the
regular streets crossing each other at right angles, seemed
s 2

132 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
like a little plain intersected with lines. The sliippingin
the bay looked like small boats, and the contrast between
the villages and green plantations surrounding the beach
with the rocks, lands, and mountains, which filled out the
prospect, produced a most pleasing effect on my mind. On
the top of the mountain grew some few shrubs near the
Avater ; and amongst the rocks towards the verge of the
summit, heaths bearing small fknvers of a white, red, and
violet colour, were the most predominant plants. Several
shrubs, rare in other parts, are also found here. The Ti?
ger hill on the one side, and the Lion's Head or Devil
Hill ou the other, as I have already observed, are only
separated from Table Mountain by great chasms. They are
evidently all three composed of the same materials, and
it seemed therefore natural to suppose that they were rent
asunder by some violent convulsion of nature. Huge mas
ses of rock rising amidst the rents, and heaped one on the
other, often nearly join them. Those A'ast rocks are com
posed of a species of granite, and are in some places only
strewed with a scanty covering of earth. The predominant
colour of those masses is a grey tinctured with a blueish
cast. In some places are incorporated small pieces of a
Avhitish shining stone, and a reddish granulated substance.
In the excursion I made to the top of Table Mountain from
tlie south-Avest part of Tiger Hill, the appearances of na
ture Ave re the same; this Avay I found extremely difficult,
and Avas more than once on the point of giving it up,
having to climb from one rock to another, and to let my-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.1 133
self down from one precipice, and ascend another with great •
danger. At last after much time and trouble I succeeded
in arriving at the summit of the Table. In my Avay doAvn,
one of those clouds suddenly came on, which for near an
hour obliged me to remain in the recess of a huge pro
jecting rock. This fleecy cloud was evidently full of saline
particles. My clothes and hair Avere Avet through, and
on my skin and face was left a kind of incrustation such
as is caused by the spray arising from salt Avater, which
confirmed me in the opinion of those clouds being originally
composed of water taken up from the sea. In my Avay
up several baboons and monkeys made their appearance,
some of them Ave disturbed out of their hiding places in
the rocks and clefts. One of the guides suddenly crossed
the place where a hyena was sitting ; his fright Avas greater
than that of the animal, which went off Arery angry at
being discomposed by his unexpected appearance. For
tunately Ave Avere not close to him, and he made no at
tempt to attack any of our party. I returned from my
journey in the. eATening extremely tired, and having informed
my Dutch host of the route I pursued, he Avas very angry
Avith his slave for attempting so dangerous a way, till I
assured him he only acted by my particular orders; and
that having already gone by the usual road, I Avished to
try that by the Tiger Hill.
The climate of the Cape is reckoned one of the most Climate at
... . , ,, . r . „ . . the Cape.
salubrious in the world, a point ot infinite importance to
the possessors of the colony. It differs considerably from

seasons.

134 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
any of those known in Europe or Asia; and yet is found
Remarkably to agree remarkably with strangers. Our countrymen have
healthy. , .
during their residence here proved its salutary effects on their
constitutions, feAV or none of them being attacked with any
disease which eould be said to be peculiarly incident to the
The different climate of the Cape. The weather like the year is nearly
equally divided into two seasons, the Avet and the dry.
The former is from March to September, so that the sum
mer commences at the Cape when it ends Avith us in
England. The spring months are from about the latter
end of September to the middle of December; the hottest
weather is in January and February. The autumn com
mences about the latter end. of March, and the Avinter months
are June, July, and August. The chief inconveniences of
the Avinter arise from the heavy fogs, misty rains, and strong
north-west winds Avhich prevail during that season. In the
summer, the great heat, the dry parching south-east winds,
and a long want of those refreshing showers Avhich so often
fall in Europe during our warm months, produce many
disagreeable circumstances to the inhabitants. The spring
months are by far the most agreeable and temperate, being
equally free from the damp fogs of Avinter, and the parching
and oppressive heat of the summer season. During this
agreeable period, which continues nearly four months, the
Dutch undertake their journeys to their settlements in the
interior, to superintend the planting and dressing their farms,
or to indulge themselves in excursions of pleasure. The
summer brings with it the various productions of the earth
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 135
in the greatest profusion. The beginning of autumn is as
mild and delightful as the spring; indeed it continues nearly
tlie same throughout, except that the latter end of the
autumn is more subject to rain. ¦ The prevailing weather
of the winter is stormy, rainy, and cold, yet far less so than
the winters of Europe. A deluge of rain not unfrequently Deluges.
happens during the winter, and water spouts are often
seen on shore as Avell as in the bay. The torrents of rain
more than once alarmed tlie inhabitants during our stay
in the settlement, for the safety of the lower part of the
town toAvards the sea. During the inundation that took
place in 1799, the water suddenly rushed from the hills
over the town at the left extremity of the Table Moun
tain, or between it and the Tiger Hill, supposed to be caused
by the bursting of a cloud or a water spout ; and a great
deal of mischief ensued. It took the direction of the castle,
Avhich presently had six feet of water in the yard, and
about the AA-orks. The great body of the current being re
sisted in its course and turned aside by the castle Avails,
rushed furiously down towards the sea on both sides of this
building, meeting in its way with the artillery barracks
and store houses, Avhich. composed a range of building be
tween the castle and the sea, but standing much loAver than
the former. The officers mess room was so instantaneously
filled, that they who then happened to be at dinner,
could scarcely save themselves from being droAvned, by
making their way to the higher story. Tlie apartments
of this range, Avhich were on the ground floor, Avere instantly

Winter.

J 36 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
filled with Avater. One or two of the priA'ates were un
fortunately lost in the flood, besides several black people,
Avho Avere at Avork, or passing that way by accident. For
tunately feAV objects lay- in its course ; and the descent
Avas so great, that it immediately reached to the sea. Had
this deluge happened somewhat higher up toAvards the
toAvn, or run through it, the damage and loss of lives
might have been very great.
The approach of Avinter at the Cape is made knoAvn to
the inhabitants by the appearances on" the Table Moun
tain. The south-east Avind bloAvs less frequently and less
.violently, and that fleecy cloud, which I mentioned above,
seldom appears along with it. The wind changes by degrees
to north-Avest, and at first Woavs gently ; but at length
increases to the highest pitch of Aiolence. HeaAry rains
iioav begin to descend, accompanied Avith thunder and light
ning, Avhich rarely happen at an}^ other period of the year.
This Aveather and the north-west winds set in strongly
about the end of May, and continue Avith a feAV intermis
sions till the middle of August, Avhen the rain completely
disappears, except iioav and then a feAV Avettish, or rather
misty days. Although it never freezes about Cape Town,
snoAV is seen on the tops of the mountains of Hottentot
Holland, and the interior of the southern part: even the
Table Mountain has on its summit a slight quantity, al
though so near the sea. The thermometer is very va-
riable at this season; in one part of the day it is often as
Ioav as 40 degrees; and at another will ascend to 65 or
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. l$f
70, making a variation of 25 or 30 degrees during the
sun's course.
The summer is ushered in by a clear and bright ap- Summer.
pearanee of the firmament, a serene and light clear blue
sky, and tlie clouds, if there are any to be seen, steady
and immoveable, arrested in their course. The wind
now varies from the north-west to the south-east point,
first beginning gently, and at every return increasing in
strength. It is now also accompanied Avith the appear
ance of the fleecy cloud on Table Hill. The thermome
ter generally rises from 70 to 80, 83, and 84 degrees ;
and it has been knoAvn even to exceed this considerably. I
have seen it more than once at 100, and instances of its being
up to 104, have occurred. Yet the constant circulation of
air renders this climate far more endurable than that of
most parts of the East Indies. The heat in summer is not
so oppressive as in Ceylon and the southern parts of India
at the coldest season. I was tbe better able to judge of
this, as I left Madras in the cool season, and came from
thence direetly to the Cape, where it was then the middle
of summer ; and although the heat seemed to oppress many
of the inhabitants, I felt not in the slightest degree incom
moded by it. The greatest inconvenience I felt during my
stay here was from the glare, and reflected heat of the
houses and the dust flying in clouds about the streets. The
mornings are more sultry in general at the Cape than the
heat of the day ; for the south-east winds generally spring
ing up about noon, last till night. A temporary inconve~
T

J38 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,
ifieucc is indeed occasioned even by those relieving south
east Avinds, for they carry a great quantity of heat in them
selves, and blow the dust furiously about; yet the inhabi
tants look upon their bloAving as a fortunate circumstance,
for the air is thus kept in constant circulation during the
hot months, when no rain almost ever falls to refresh the
atmosphere. The stagnant heat reflected from the houses
and the surrounding mountains, Avould also greatly over
balance the inconveniences attending the south-east winds.
Another effect of these breezes, from which great benefit
is deriA^ed to health, is, that those great masses of sea
weeds and other nuisances, brought into the bay and throAvn
on the shore bordering the toAvn, where they are left
by the influx of the tide, to corrupt and putrify, caus
ing a disagreeable smell, are, by the agitation caused by
the violence of the south-east winds, removed and driven
back out of the bay into the ocean. The nights in the
heat of summer are abvays cool and refreshing. Thunder
and lightning happen but seldom in the course of a year,
and neArer in that severe manner we experience in India.
and in all the tropical climates. Water hardly ever freezes
at the Cape in the coldest season, and Avhen it does it dis
solves again immediately.
Many officers and gentlemen who from a long residence
in India contract disorders incident to that climate, and
have their constitutions debilitated and broken, come to
the Cape on account of its salubrious air and mild tem
perature. There they soon recoA'er the vigour of their con-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 139
stitutions, and shake off many of the Indian complaints, par
ticularly bilious habits and diseases of the liver. This I expe
rienced in a very high degree in my own case, being great
ly restored during my stay at the Cape. Even in regard
to the climate alone, the Cape is of singular and great ad
vantage to be retained in our possession, from the vast num
bers of our countrymen in the Asiatic world,, and the great
force necessary to be kept up there in the defence and se
curity of our possessions. Those regiments Avho have been
first retained for a couple of years at the Cape, before they
Avere sent on to India, were much better able to endure that
climate than those who were sent out immediately. The
84th, 86th, and the other corps who had been on the Cape
establishment and duty for four or five years, lost very few*
men on their arrival in India. Many of the invalids, who
contract their disorders and debilitated state of health from
the length d? time they have resided in Asia, prefer the
climate of the Cape to that of Europe, as much more
temperate and better adapted to restore their constitutions.
It is, in particular, not subject to the great cold and damps
we experience in our Avinters ; and the heat of the summer
season at the Cape is not so oppressiAre or inconvenient to
those long living within a few degrees of the equinoctial,
line; feAV also of those malignant disorders Avhich attack us*
io Europe, are known here.

t2

140 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER IX.
Country about Cape Town—Productions natural to this Part qf
Africa — Vegetables, Fruit, Plants — Silver Tree described — Fuel
scarce at the Cape — Grain — Metallic Ores — Coal Mine — Mi
nerals — Warm Baths at Stelembosch and Hottentot Island.
The country J. HE country in the neighbourhood of the Cape contains
around Cape . ._ , ., ...
Town. a great variety and contrast Of scenery and soil ; villages
and cultivated plantations are every where interspersed with
sandy hills and low barren tracts. There is much arable
land as yet uncultivated, and many marshy spots which
have a deep and fertile soil, watered by rivulets and streams,
arid capable of bringing forth the most valuable produc
tions. For some distance there is no river of any con
sequence on this side the peninsula, though canals and
communications by water might be made in several parts,
and plentifully supplied by those rivulets which rush doAvn
from the surrounding hills. On a line with Wineberg, at
a distance of seven miles south from the Cape Town, begin
the houses and plantations of the principal Dutchmen.
Some of these colonists have residences in town, and live
here merely to enjoy the ease and retirement of a country
life; Avhilst others are altogether farmers, and attend to the
planting of vines, and the rearing of vegetables, fruit, and
grain, Avith which they supply the town. Those plantations
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 14,1
and residences of the Dutch from the great number of
offices attached to them, look like so many little distinct
villages, and are indeed called so, where two or three of
those residences stand close together.
From the south part of Table Mountain, which nearly Appearance
, „., ii\ , • -i ofthecoun-
extends to Wineberg, the land spreads into an irregular try.
stripe, stretching quite to the shores of Table Bay. This
irregular belt of flat land properly commences from the
pass of Musenberg, where it opens into an extensive plain,
bounded on one side by the sea, and on the other by hills
of various appearances, some sandy, others rocky, and a
few capable of cultivation. Some of these hills have a light
soil and a scanty coat of green verdure ; but on all of
thsm there is little or no wood to be seen. From Musen
berg to Wineberg this flat tract of land is wild, unculti
vated and waste, that side nearest the sea has a loose white
sandy surface, interspersed with small trees of the shrub
kind, and a few plants natural to this sandy soil. On the
other side, towards the hills, it has a greener and fresher
appearance, many kinds of heath, shrubs, and low trees
grow spontaneously quite to the hills, and far up their sides.
Before you come to Wineberg there is a range of veiy
pleasant green hills, which run in a direction parallel to
the south side or back of Table Mountain, about the dis
tance of three miles from the road leading to Cape ToAvn.
Here is situated the delightful vine plantations and village of
Constantia, nearly at the foot of one of the pleasantest of those
hills Avhich shelters it from tlie violence of the south-east winds.

142

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

'To add to the beauty of this place there are groves of
the silver-tree planted all round, and on the sides of the
Witte Boem. hill Avhere the vine plantations are reared. Beyond Con
stantia, and nearly on a line with Wineberg, is another lit
tle village called Witte Boem, in English White Wood,
from a number of trees whose body and bark have a Avhite
appearance, as also the number of silver-trees groAving here
whose leaves are of the colour of that metal, and are as
rich as satin to the touch. They may indeed be said to-
be every Avay similar to a grayish or bluish pearl-coloured
plush velvet. Witte Boem lies up near the south end of
Table Land. It includes a very handsome house belonging
to a Dutch gentleman, but occupied, Avhilst I Avas at the
Cape, by Mr. Pringle, the East-India Company's Agent.
From this all the way to the Cape ToAvn the houses and
gardens are very numerous, and not unhandsomely laid out.
The Arerdant appearance of those plantations and spots of
cultivated land around you make a beautiful appearance,
Avhich is heightened by being contrasted with the African
wilds that surround them, and the aAvfully grand summit
of the Table Mountain, and tlie hills of Hottentot Hol-
Productions land. The natural historian of every description has here
natural to r
this part of indeed an ample field for his investigations. The animal
Africa. and vegetable productions of the Cape are very numerous.
Some of the most prominent of them I shall describe in
plain language, leaving more regular descriptions to men of
Vegetables, science. Their vegetables are mostly of the same kind with
those Ave have in Europe. The nopal or prickly pear,.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 143
which feeds the cochineal insect, is in abundance ; as also
bringalls and different kinds of cole and cabbages. The
cabbage-tree here groAVS very tall Avithout branches, except
a bunch at top ; the thick soft stalk Avhen boiled resembles
our cabbages in taste. Fruit is in great abundance, and Fruits.
uncommonly cheap. It is reckoned here extremely whole
some, and the free use of it is recommended particularly
to those Avho come from India for the rearvery of their
health. The oranges are large and Avell flavoured. There
are abundance of plantains, guavoes, pumpkins, melons,
squashes, or water-melons, strawberries, cherries, figs, and
pomegranates.. There are also peaches, apricots, and necta
rines, which, though in great plenty, are not so large or
well-flavoured as those of Europe. Neither, are the apples
and pears, although reared in great quantities, either so
various in kind or of such a good quality as ours. Grapes
of different kinds are employed both for making wine and
for drying and curing as raisins. Chesnuts, walnuts, and
almonds, grow here equal if not superior to those of other
countries. There are also bilimbies, tamarinds, and several
other fruits of an acid quality so common in India. Pota
toes are produced at the Cape, but of a kind much infe
rior to ours, though nearly the same in taste and appear
ance, but smaller and more insipid. The Dutch seem not
to esteem this valuable root much, and the quantity raised
is very trifling. They think the potatoe requires too much
trouble to rear, and that the soil here is not adapted to
it, which is a very erroneous opinion, as I have met many

fU THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
spots uncommonly well calculated to produce this root;
but the Dutch are unconquerably obstinate in their preju-
dicesj and never wish to be taught by their neighbours.
I have eat excellent potatoes planted by an English gentle
man, who shewed me two or three different kinds of soil
where they were reared, and which he had planted on
purpose to find out that best adapted here for them ; his
experiments proved that they grew in all the different soils
here by draining the marshy spots, and bringing the marl
or rich sediment, and mixing it with the gravelly surface
on the higher grounds : by this means he had an excellent
crop. I have been a good deal surprised to see the back
wardness of the Dutch in the culture of this excellent ve
getable, which they might have in abundance; and though
not partial to it themselves as part of their food, might
turn it to good account by supplying the ships which touch
here, and which are always very anxious to obtain a sup
ply of such vegetables. They might also afford a cheap
and easily procured food for hogs and poultry. The Dutch
attend very little to the breeding of hogs and rearing do
mestic fowls, such as turkeys, capons, &c. they in general
detest the hog, and do not chuse to go to the expense of
feeding it. Many of our countrymen attempted to intro
duce some improvements in these objects, and in particular
to persuade the Dutch of the utility of planting potatoes
in large quantities, as it has ever been so much an object
for ships to procure a stock of them at whatever port
they touch. The inhabitants of St. Helena are aware of

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. J 45
the advantage and profit derived from potatoes, which are
in that island excellent. I have eat them there as good as
any in England, and indeed tolerably cheap considering the
enormous price of every other article. The soil of St.
Helena is similar to that of many parts of the Cape ; the
earth is very thin, and lightly covers a rocky or gravelly
stratum ; yet notwithstanding it produces this vegetable abun
dantly. At the Cape the Dutch plant large fields of car- The Dutch
J r r o feed horses
rots to feed their sheep and horses ; a bunch or two of on carrots.
carrots is reckoned equal to a feed of corn with us ; and
in many places their horses get nothing else during the
day, but a few bunches of this vegetable. No hay is to be
had near Cape Town ; nor are there any inclosed fields or
paddocks of grass for them to be turned into. Sometimes
the slaves are sent out to some distance to procure grass,
and long heath from the wet marshy spots, for their horses.
The trees and plants of the shrub kind are more numerous Trees, plants,
and varied here than in any part of the world. Myrtle andshrubs-
grows to a great height ; all the gardens and plantations are
bounded and fenced in with thick hedges of it, as ours are
with Avhite and black thorn. Laurels, laurestinas, gera
niums, jessamines, albucas, and hyacinths, also form part
of their fences, growing spontaneously in most places. The
protea argentia, or silver-tree, rises in pleasant groves and
clusters round the Dutch gentlemen's country houses, and
is A'ery common on this side the peninsula ; it strikes the
eye immediately from the richness and colour of its leaves.
The tree itself is about the size and thickness of our small
U

146 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
poplar or pine, but the branches are more spreading and
grow near the top ; there being a long space between the
root and branch. The seed is like our acorn or fir-cone
in shape, but smaller than the last, and parts of it are
eaten by the slaves and cattle when green, and newly fallen
from the tree. The wood is only fit for fuel.
Bulbous rooted plants, and flowers of almost every de
scription, meet the eye here wherever it turns, even in
parts the most sandy and otherwise barren. Daisies grow
as numerous here as in England, and of a great variety of
species. The blood-flower takes its name from an opinion
that it stops the bleeding on being applied to the wounded
part; but the efficacy of this prescription I have not ascer
tained. The everlasting-flower, which grows here in abun
dance, derives its name from appearing as fresh and in as
high preservation after being seven years pulled, as the day
when it was first torn from the stalk. It is of the form of
the daisy, and as large as our marygold. Some of this
species are white ; others of a purple and sea green colour.
When first plucked, it feels like an artificial flower of painted
paper ; indeed it is much more like an artificial than a
natural one. I brought different kinds of these everlast
ing-flowers to Europe, and though a considerable time had
elapsed since their having been plucked at the Cape, they
continued in the same fresh state till they were acciden
tally destroyed by a careless servant.
The Arabian jessamine, or ny can this scambac, which I
have so often met at Ceylon, is also an inhabitant here, its
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 147
odour is most exquisite. A species of indigo grows wild ;
the cotton tree is to be found in some parts ; the prickly
pear Avhich feeds the cochineal is in abundance ; the tea
plant has even been introduced, but never attended to ; and
the coffee tree and the sugar cane are to be met with.
The Cape olive is A'ery good in its kind. There is also a
very useful plant from Avhich wax is procured. But most
of these valuable productions, for Avhich the Cape is so much
indebted to nature, though many of them of the greatest
utility, were still much neglected by the Dutch, and little
benefit has been derived in this instance from the bounty
of Providence. I have observed but few forest or timber
trees in the southern peninsula of the Cape. The principal
ones which I noticed Avere the oak and elm, both diminu
tive, and never growing either to the height or bulk Avhich
they attain in Europe. Pines and poplars are sometimes
found in plantations, mixed with the silver tree. Most spe
cies of timber trees, I should suppose, Avould flourish here
if properly planted and attended to, which the Dutch never
did to any extent. This negligence is now sensibly felt Fuel scarce
at the Cape; as fuel is become enormously dear and very
difficult to be obtained, OAving to the scarcity of extensive
plantations. The tract about Wineberg and Musenberg
is now nearly the only place where it can be procured all
around the Cape ToAvn ; but even this last resource, from
the constant consumption, is also nearly exhausted, and pre
sents in most places but a Avaste sand almost totally deprived
of its thin clothing. The scarcity and dearness of fuel makes
u 2

148 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
many parts of accommodation, and washing in particular,
come very high. The inhabitants of Cape Town are obliged
to send their slaves many miles into the country to look
for fuel for their daily purposes. Lord Macartney took
this circumstance into serious consideration, but his stay
here Avas too short to allow him to remedy the inconve
nience. His intention was to have stimulated the colonists
to plant the tracts contiguous to the town, and thus pro
vide an inexhaustible supply ; but nothing has since been
done for this purpose.
The woods of the interior are in many places very large ;
and in many parts to the eastward of False Bay large
forests stretch doAvn to the very coast, and might easily be
transported by sea carriage to the Cape. In these oak
grows in many parts equal in size to any in Europe. Of
the species peculiar to this country I have particularly ob
served the geel hout : it grows to a very large size ; the
branches are situated near the top, and spread much ; the
Avood is of a bright yelloAV colour, and much used for
furniture. The iron wood, or yezer hout, is very common, and grows
very high. The Avood is hardj heavy, and of a dark brown
colour. The hasagay wood is much used for waggon wheels, rafters
for houses, and knees for large boats. It resembles maho
gany, and the planks make excellent flooring for houses.
The stink hout, or stinking Avood, is so called from its of
fensive smell Avhen cut green ; but Avhen well seasoned is

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 149
reckoned the best for building at the Cape. It resem
bles the oak, and usually goes by the name of the Cape
Oak. The rearing barley, wheat, rye, and oats, and all branches Grain.
of agriculture, are carried to a higher degree in the inte
rior of the colony, than the parts immediately in the Adci-
nity of Cape Town. The latter, where they present a soil
fit for vegetation and the culture of- grain, are chiefly con
verted into garden's for raising such kitchen-stuffs as I have
already described. Any fields, dedicated to the purposes of
husbandry here, are planted with pease, beans, kidney-
beans, carrots, turnips, grapes, hemp, and flax of a coarse
quality for sail cloth, &c. The hemp plant here is diffe- Hemp.
rent from that of Europe. It groAVS like a shrub, throwing
out a number of branches. There are various species of
this plant cultivated here ; and all are found extremely well
fitted for making cordage, fishing-nets, cloth for the slaves,
and gunny cloth or coarse bags to hold corn. The slaves
and Hottentots dry and tAvist up the leaves of one or two
kinds of this hemp, plant and cheAV or smoke it for to
bacco. The tobacco-plant itself groAvs here also, but is
not cultivated to any extent. Whether the Cape produces Ores.
lead, iron, or copper, at least to any great extent, has not
been accurately ascertained. It is indeed imagined that
to ascertain this Avould be well worth investigation, and
many accounts are current of its containing those valuable
substances in its boAvels. No attempts of any consequence
have been made by the Dutch to ascertain how prolific

150 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the earth here is in those minerals ; veins of lead and iron
ore have indeed been occasionally discoArered near the Cape,
but scarcely ever further noticed. I am inclined to believe
that no miner has ever been employed in the colony. The
discovery of considerable veins of these ores Avould be an
infinite addition to the value of the country ; and the ad
vantages to be derived from them is sufficient to justify
the application of no small proportion of both labour and
expense -in the inquiry; particularly after the favourable
symptoms which have already occurred. Iron, tin, copper,
might be a great staple trade from the Cape to South
America, Madagascar, and the isles of the Pacific Ocean.
Coal I should imagine might be procured from the trial
made near the Tiger Hill, when Lord Macartney was Go-
Veinofcoai. vernor. A vein Avas discovered of considerable extent, but
from the embarrassed state of a newly conquered colony,
and the want of people to work it properly, A'ery little was
taken up, and the mine afterwards entirely neglected. The
coal, though not equal in quality to what is generally used
in England, might very well serve for the kitchens, Avhere
in fact fires are only used in the colony. In regard to the
investigation of the valuable substances contained in the
bowels of the earth, the conduct of the Dutch has been
the same as on all other respects. To the cultivation of
grain, vegetables, fruits, and such trees as being naturally
of a hardy kind, require little attention in the rearing and
planting, their industry Avas sometimes able to extend ; but
whatever required further exertion, even Avhere gain Avas evi-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. J 51
dently the ultimate reward, the indolence of these degene
rate colonists prevailed even over their avarice.
A sulphureous stratum is common in many spots. Hot mi
neral springs of a medicinal quality are found near Stellenbosch,
and in parts of Hottentot Holland ; they are often used by
the Dutch in consumptive habits, and for purifying the blood.
As the warm baths in the country of Hottentot Hol
land have been often mentioned as effecting great cures,
and are much resorted to, the following account of them
may be acceptable, and perhaps hereafter useful to some
of my countrymen. They Avere discovered by the Hotten
tots Avho used them when attacked with those epidemic
and violent bilious fe\rers to which they are subject. Af
terAvards the Dutch made trial of them in various cases,
but had been some time in the habit of using them before
they could ascertain the benefits to be derived from, and
the complaints particularly alleviated by, their use. During
Lord Macartney's government they were analized by the
English medical gentlemen at the Cape ; and partly from
their researches, and partly from what I learnt from re
spectable Dutch gentlemen, some of whom had experienced
their efficacy, I have derived the following account. These
baths are situated beneath a range of mountains" known by
the name of ZAvarteberg or Black Mountains. Along the
edges of the rivulets or streams issuing from the warm
springs are seA^eral kinds of reeds, flowers, and herbs, which
grow without being in any way affected by the warm water
with which they are washed. The taste of those waters is

152 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
strongly tinctured with a metallic flavour ; and are supposed
by some to have a mixture of sulphur, though many who
have tried them will not allow them this ingredient. The
water is rather disagreeable to the palate, and considerably
acid; though when SAvallowed it does not create any great
uneasiness to the stomach or bowels. One of the springs
has an extremely nauseous smell, much resembling the Har-
rowgate waters; which corroborates the opinion of some
English medical gentlemen that it contains sulphureous in
gredients. Concerning the original formation of these baths,
it is generally believed that they have been produced by
earthquakes or some subterraneous convulsion ; and that they
are probably supplied by some hidden fires in the bowels
of the mountains. At some little distance are rocks, and
large loose pieces of stone, which have all the marks of
being forced out of the earth by some violent convulsions.
They still retain marks of lava over various parts of them;
and amidst their clefts and cavities a substance appears of
a darkish grey colour with particles of iron ore, apparently
united by the force of fire into one mass.
Such convulsions, and perhaps subterraneous fires, do not
seem to be confined to the immediate neighbourhood of
these warm baths. Small blackish substances like burnt
cinders have been shewn me at the Cape found amongst
the earth, and mixed in considerable quantities with it.
They seemed to have been produced by the effects of vol
canoes or earthquakes. All the country round is very de
ficient in springs, and few attempts to sink wells have been

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 153
attended with success. In several parts contiguous fo Cape
Town, particularly near Witte Boem, and the south-west
part of the Table, I have seen warm springs issuing from a
rocky soil. Their heat I very sensibly felt on dipping my
hand into them; and the water had a strong taste of iron
ore. On steeping the leaves of herbs and roots of rushy
plants for a few minutes in it," the water constantly turned
of a pale violet or purple hue. I also tried it with tea,
Avhich tinged it of a deep purple dolour.
The water from the warm baths, on the application of
various ingredients, was sensibly affected and changed its
colour to several different shades. Sugar of lead drew a
quantity of foul, slimy, matter to the bottom ; and was the
only substance it Avas mixed with when it retained its pro
per colour ; but it gave the water a much clearer and more
refined appearance. It also caused a number of air bubbles
to rise so rapidly upwards as to produce a hissing noise on
being first put into the glass.
Copperas changed it to a brownish colour. Quicksilver
kept up for some time a violent motion ; and on the smallest
touch applied to the glass it repeated its agitation. Gold
had no effect ; but silver, when taken out, tasted like zinc.
Tea made it more of a reddish than purple colour ; on
being left some time, the high colour was considerably lost,
although it still continued to remain towards the bottom
of the vessel. Such were the results of certain experiments
I saw made on these waters ; the causes of the several
changes will be understood by those conversant in chemistry.
X

154 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
The Dutch built a tolerable house close by the dome,
Avhich covered the principal bath, for the accommoda
tion of company resorting to it; which numbers did an
nually, but more from the country parts than Cape Town.
The building containing the bath is merely a slight and
miserable shed. The Avater runs from the spring a little
ivay under ground, when it is conveyed by a wooden trough
into the pits or sunken floors, where the bathers sit up to
their chins in the Abater, which is very warm but not in
conveniently so. The time necessary to remain is about
eight or ten minutes ; when its effects appear in causing a
strong sensation of external heat, increasing the pulse, and
producing a faintishness. The patient is then assisted out,
and lays himself down on a bench Avell covered up, Avhere
he continues to perspire for a quarter of an hour. If there
is occasion to force perspiration, he drinks a glass of the
Avater. When this operation is over, he is Avashed as quickly
as possible in the bath, and then Avell rubbed and dressed.
This process is sometimes repeated tAvice or thrice every
day. The Dutch do not allow blacks or Hottentots the
use of this bath ; there are some other springs contiguous
Avhich are thought good enough for them. These second
rate baths are not covered in, nor the patient there much
attended to. Indeed much improvement and many addi
tional conveniences are required at the bath used by the
colonists themselves. For instance the Avater is suffered to
come some distance from the spring in the open air before
it is received into the house ; by which it must lose a
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 155
good deal of its strength and medicinal quality. Instead
of glass vessels to drink from, a large iron ladle is made
use of, which from the quality of the Avater is seldom clean,
and cannot tend much to reconcile the stomach of a sick
patient to the medicine. Considerable benefits might also
be expected from a proper regulation of the seasons of
bathing; and still more from ascertaining the particular
diseases in Avhich this remedy is really efficacious. In the
dry season the water is much hotter than in the wet ; yet
in the latter they seldom make use of it. The Dutch ap
ply to these springs for relief in a A^ariety of disorders, and
in some of Avhich the bath has been found extremely hurt
ful. Consumptive and bilious habits are often cured. The
strong perspirations which the waters cause seem to expel
the noxious humours from the body and clear the lungs.
Head achs and spasms in the chest, as Avell as rheumatic
complaints, are greatly relieved by them. Sores, eruptions,
and ulcers, have not derived that benefit from them Avhich
was expected. The Cape physicians Avere by no means men
of scienee ; they neither understood the composition of the
waters, nor frequently the nature of the complaints for Avhich
they recommended them to their patients. Many instances
have occurred of bad effects produced by recourse to these
waters in improper cases ; and where in ' such cases cures
have been obtained, they may be attributed rather to a
good constitution and habit of body than to any effect of
the Abaters themselves. Some medical gentlemen, my coun
trymen, with whom I have conversed on this subject, seemed
x 2

156 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
to have but an indifferent opinion of them. Their chief ef
fects are ascribed to the violent perspiration, which enables
the system to throw out any morbid humours which it
may have contracted.
The farmers, as well as some of the Cape people, make
use of those baths as much from Caprice as from any cer
tainty of their medicinal virtues ; and without once consi
dering whether the remedy is applicable to the disease or
not. This is particularly the case in all sores and swell
ings of the legs, Avhich often demand a very different mode
of cure. The most dangerous of these SAvellings are occa
sioned by Avorms of immense length, a complaint to which
Europeans are very subject in the East-Indies. This Avorm,
Avhich is sometimes three, four, or even six feet long, is
bred in the calf and loAver part of the leg. I have seen
some most painful instances of this kind; and great care,
dexterity, and management, are required to eradicate it com
pletely ; for if the Avorm breaks in the operation of extract
ing, and any part is left behind, a mortification is usually
the consequence. When the worm, which is very thin and
white, is perceived moving about, an incision is made in
the patient's leg, and the lower and upper part bound
tight, leaving a space for the creature to move and turn
about. A poultice to open and draw the sore is then ap
plied, and the worm soon makes its appearance at the sur
face. At first but a few inches of the worm can be laid
hold of, and this portion is carefully twisted round a quill.
It then begins to give way a little more, and by degrees

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 157
is twisted completely round, perhaps several inches in the
course of a day, till at length it is Avholly extracted.
Sometimes nearly a month is required before this operation
is accomplished. The strictest attention is necessar)^ to keep
the animal closely tAvistgd to the quill, to prevent him from
making exertions and breaking : as then the leg must either
mortify, or undergo a very painful operation, and be laid.
open to get out the remainder. The patient is in great
agony during the operation, and the leg generally swells to
an enormous size. Brackish and bad Avater is a cause assigned
for this disorder. The physicians, or rather quacks, be
longing to the colony seem to understand little or nothing
of the proper mode of treating these and other ulcerous
affections. Blotches and sores are the natural consequences
of their gross manner of living ; and these diseases seem, in
many instances, to be hereditary among several of the Dutch
as well as the native Hottentots. The latter are very skil
ful in curing several kinds of sores by means of herbs,
pounding them betAveen stones, and applying them to the
parts affected. Even poisonous Avounds are dexterously
cured by the Hottentots, and I believe latterly feAV are
knoAvn to die from wounds merely on account of their
being poisoned. I have seen many kinds of the poisons
they use in Avarfare, and brought with me home some ar
rows dipped in a kind of blackish composition like pitch.
I have tried its effects on dogs, tAvo of which died in con
sequence, though it Avas nearly a year since it had been
put on the arrow. One of the dogs survived three days,
the other died much swoln and convulsed in a -few hours.

158 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER X.
Different Species qf wild Quadrupeds — Opinion concerning the
Unicorn — Various Species of Antelope and Deer — Domestic
Animals — Oxen and horned Cattle — Sheep — Birds — Wild
Fowl — Ostriches — Wild Peacocks and many other Species
found here — Venomous Animals and Reptiles — Obnoxious
Insects and Creatures of the Fly Species.
Quadrupeds. X HE various animals, Avhich inhabit this part of the
world, are extremely numerous ; some are accounted pecu-
Wiid. liar to the Cape. Amongst the Avild quadrupeds are the
lion, the elephant, tiger, leopard, hyena, AArolf, tiger-cat,
jackal, rhinoceros, buffaloe, Avild-hog, camelopard, and the
hypopotamus. The elephant, the rhinoceros, and the camelo
pard, live far in the interior ; excepting those last I have seen
all the rest in the neighbourhood of the Cape. It is posi
tively asserted by many that the unicorn is found in
Unicom said the deserts of Caffraria. I often endeavoured to ascertain
to be an in- it i c l • 1
habitant. the much-disputed existence ot this animal ; my repeated
inquiries however ended only in increasing my doubts of the
fact, for I could never find out any person who had seen it
with his oavii eyes, or heard it described by a person who
had. The horn Avhich is often shewn as belonging to the
unicorn, is that of a large and peculiar species of ante
lope, which I haA'e frequently seen in India, and Avhich
in this particular much resembles Avhat the unicorn is de-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 159
Scribed to be, haAing one large horn growing in the mid
dle of his forehead. One of those horns nearly three feet
long, in the possession of a gentleman at the Cape, is
shewn as belonging to the unicorn.
The lion is now become a very rare visitor of the Cape ;
he usually keeps far in the interior, though he has lately
been met Avith on the borders of the colony.
Hyenas and Avolves are numerous in every part, and do
a great deal of mischief. Of the deer, antelope, and goat,
seAreral species are found at the Cape, and are known there
by the following names : the spring-bock, the stein-bock,
bosch-bock, riet-bock, duiker-bock, gries-bock, bonte-bock,
haart-beast, common deer, large antelope, small antelope,
and the little spotted deer, Avhich is not larger than a hare,
and seems to partake of the nature of both animals. Many
of those animals are met Avith in abundance near Cape
Town, and are often produced at the tables of the inha
bitants. The duiker-bock, or diving-goat, derives its name from
its plunging and springing amongst the bushes when closely
pursued. It is about the size of the common deer, of a
dirty brown colour with two long straight horns of a blacker
hue, tapering gradually from the forehead to the point.
These animals spring so suddenly, and Avith such violence
forward, when you come upon them in the marshy and
sedgy grounds, that a stranger is apt to imagine himself
attacked by a more dangerous foe. The gries-bock is also
of the size of a common deer, but bears a considerable re-

160 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
semblance to a goat : its colour is greyish, and the hair
loose and frizzled. This species is very plentiful, and does
a great deal of mischief to the gardens and vineyards in
the night time ; it is exceedingly SAvift, and none of the
wild beasts of prey can overtake it. The bonte-bock and
haart-beast are uncommonly large, and are chiefly found in
the interior parts : I never saw them at the Cape. Buffa
loes are numerous in the Caffree country, and are much
the same as those of India, being equally wild, fierce, and
untractable. Hares and rabbits are numerous, particularly
on Robin Island and at Saldahna. Various kinds of small
quadrupeds abound, such as armadilloes, ant-bears, mon
gooses, racoons, squirrels, ichnuemons.
Monkeys, as I haAre already observed, are common at the
Cape, but are not of so many different species as in India.
The baboons seem to be the predominant race here. Those
are extremely numerous, and exceedingly ugly and disgust
ing ; as Avell as mischievous and brutal to a great degree.
All the hills are infested with them, and it is dangerous
for an individual to fall in the way of a number of them.
Instances have occurred of their attacking the Hottentots ;
and particularly the female Hottentot, if she comes in their
way, they will attempt to force her person, and even kill
her on resisting their designs. The Cape baboon is as large
as a middling sized dog, but much thicker in the body,
which is covered with long hair of a greyish or bluish co
lour. When he stands up he is upwards of four feet high.
These animals are vicious, subtle, and brutal ; their tricks
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 101
and cunning are different from those of the small monkey.
Instead of the gaiety and activity of the latter, they seem
unsocial, dull, aukward, and malignant. They are fre
quently kept by the soldiers chained to posts before the
tents, and led about the streets by the slaA'es and blacks.
The Dutch hoAvever never alloAv them to be introduced into
their houses ; for if a child comes within their reach by
accident, or if they by any means get loose, they will not
fail to commit the most barbarous cruelty.
The domestic animals are £sav ; chiefly consisting of horses, Domestic
sheep, goats, and oxen. The horses at the Cape were ori- Horseg.
ginally brought from Batavia, Java, and South America, al
though these are intermixed Avith breeds from different other
parts of the Avorld. They are generally a small hardy race,
and bear a great deal of fatigue. I have already remarked the
little attention paid to the training and breeding of them
by the Dutch. Their entire neglect of the outward ap
pearance of their horses tended to impress strangers with
a still worse idea of the breed ; for they never suffered their
tails to be cut on account of the number of flies Avhich at
tack and fret them; nor indeed scarcely ever dressed their
manes and coats.; so that the stud of even a respectable
Dutch burgher seemed rough and ill-conditioned, and had
the appearance of those sorry animals used for draught and
such purposes by our common peasantry in Wales and
Ireland. The improvement made by the English in the ap
pearance of the horses at the Cape, by their care and at
tention in the management and breeding of them, was very
Y

162 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
considerable. I observed a kind of bluish spotted and straw
berry colour to be a prevailing cast. When the 28th dra
goons were first mounted here, they had great trouble in
breaking in the Cape horses, they being very vicious and ad
dicted to kicking and plunging. In the interior are still to
be found some wild horses originating from the race which
Avas turned loose to breed shortly after the Dutch arrived.
Zebra. The zebra, which has something of the horse species, is
very common in the remote parts of the colony, and is a
native of Africa. It is a beautiful creature, and resembles
the horse, the mule, and the ass, in its make and propor
tions. Its colour is a beautiful brown and regularly striped,
resembling very much some parts of a tiger's skin. For
a full description of this animal I shall refer my readers
to Buffon ; but must observe that in his account he says it
is wild, untfactable, and incapable of being tamed ; though
I have seen the zebra as mild and gentle as our common
ass, quietly grazing near Cape Town, and allowing people
to approach arid handle it.
Goats. Goats arc much esteemed at the Cape on account of
their milk, arid tlie number of kids they bring forth ; there
are various Species of them, several differing from ours in
Cows and Europe. The coavs and oxen are also of Ararious kinds ; the
large draft oxen are peculiar to the Cape and this part
of Africa. They are distinguished by a large head, long
horns and legs, Avith Very broad hoofs ; they are lank before
and broad behind. A race of beautiful small oxen, like
those of Aiclerney, are fattened for table; and the coa#s of
9

oxen.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 163
this breed afford a great quantity of milk. The beef how
ever at the Cape is in general coarse and indifferent ; for
the Dutch scarcely ever keep up cattle as we do in parti
cular meadows and places where they meet with sweet and
nourishing grass. The butchers generally buy from the
farmers in the country, and kill the beasts immediately
after coming off a long journey, tired, jaded, and their fat
all spent ; consequently their flesh is dry and tough, and its
flavour is besides much depraved by the sour acrid grass
and shrubs they are accustomed to feed upon. A bullock
will sell for ten, twelve, or fifteen rix-dollars, or from thirty
shillings to two pounds ten shillings British. The head and
inside parts of tlie beast were formerly never used by the
Dutch but given to the slaves and Hottentots or thrown
away ; as were also the same parts of the sheep ; but since
the British have resided amongst them, they have learnt to
sell those parts as weE as the carcase, and likewise to dress
them for their tables. The Duteh observing our soldiers,
who were generally Scotsmen, carrying away the sheep and
bullocks' heads to make soup, inquired if they made use of
that part of the beast;, and finding this to be the case,
they immediately set a price upon them, at first about a
penny a pieces but this was soon increased to a schillen
or two, when- they understood how much soup made -with
these parts was esteemed by our countrymen. Veal is A'ery
rare at the tables of the Cape.
Mutton is the principal part of the food of the Dutch Sheep.
and black inhabitants at the Cape. Sheep are abundant in
v 2

I6'4 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
every part of the colony. They are entirely different from
those of Europe. The Cape sheep are tolerably large, but
by no means look so Avell as ours ; nor is the mutton of
so good a flaArour, being much coarser and stronger. The
avooI is more like frizzled hair than the fleece of Euro
pean sheep, and of no other use than to stuff common
mattresses or beds for the slaves. Their colour is a dirty
brown, but they are of various shades. Some are spotted,
black and white, others resemble our brown goats and
strawberry coloured horses. They are uncommonly long
legged. Their bodies appear thin, particularly across the
fore-quarters, and across the ribs which proceeds from their
having no fat about their loins or intestines, and haAdng no
bushy fleece to make them appear larger and broader. In
their rumps and tails is concentrated the whole of their fat.
Their tails are excessively broad, flat, and short ; the under
part being quite bald. One of them will weigh from nine
to eighteen pounds. The fat is of a hard consistence, and
when melted has the appearance of oil. They save all the
tails with great care, and after melting them, preserve them
in a tub, like lard ; this they use in many cases where butter
is required, basting and stewing their meat with it for their
own tables ; and they commonly feed their slaves with goat's
flesh, offals of sheep, beef and vegetables stewed in the fat
of those tails. The price of a sheep, before our arrival at
the Cape, was from a rix-dollar to one and a half; now
it is double, as the Dutch Avere careful to make the English
pay handsomely for every thing.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 165
Dogs are numerous ; and there are many species all dif- Dogs.
ferent from ours. Some are found in the interior parts of
the colony in a Avild state, and resemble the Avolf species.
In every Dutch house are a great number of dogs, either
the property of the master, the slave, or the Hottentot.
No person of any rank wishes to go out without one or
two of these animals. The larger species has much of the
wolf dog in its shape and countenance ; the smaller are
nearly similar to our cabin curs, and have something of
the fox in their breed. They are all miserable, half-starved
looking animals, full of blotches and sores, with scarcely
any hair, and are very disgusting, especially crawling about
as they are in SAvarms every where. They are however oc
casionally very useful in hunting game, scenting Avild beasts„
and driving off the jackalls at night. As soon as the jackalls.
find their prey at the back and skirts of the town, they
begin their hoAvling directly, which is a signal to a vast
number of the town dogs, who, as if by previous agree
ment, rush out in a body and attack them.
Pigs are very scarce, not being much esteemed, and few
are reared. I hardly recollect seeing one whilst at the
Cape. They have in the interior different species of wild hog.
The feathered race are very numerous, and many of a Birds.
beautiful plumage. The hills have eagles, vultures, and kites,
hovering over them, and those Avith other ravenous birds
come to the skirts. of the town, and assist in clearing it of
dead animals and filth. The crows are seen very busy in
3

166 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
all the streets, and are thus of the greatest use; on which
account they are not allowed to be shot or molested.
Penguins, cormorants, divers, and many species of the
crane kind, as also Cape snipes, ducks, teak, and widgeons,
are in abundance. Those may be easily procured by giving
a little powder and shot to a slave or Hottentot, who
thinks himself well recompensed by the sport for his labour.
There are some of those people constantly employed to
procure game for the tables of their masters. The Dutch
gentlemen at Cape Town seldom exert themselves, or take
Ostriches. any pleasure in this amusement. Ostriches are often met
with near Cape Town and Stellenbosch ; they are inhabi
tants of every part of the interior. I have seen several at
the Cape Town quietly grazing or feeding about the streets
and fields adjoining. When erect and walking, the ostrich
is taller than a man; their long neck and gait give them
an appearance not unlike that of the camel. Their feet are
long, and as thick as those of. an ass, with three strong and
thick toes. Some are blackish, others of a dirty greyish
or ash colour, Avith a littfe white under the belly and wings.
They are prevented from flying by the contracted form and
smallness of the wing, in proportion to the rest of the body,
and their great Aveight ; but they run exceedingly' fast, and
by flapping their wings accelerate their motions and keep
themselves cool. Their bill is something like the goosej
and the jaAV and gullet are very Avide and distended. The
ostrich egg is as large as a 121b. shot, and is eaten by

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 167
the black people. These eggs are sold in the market place of
Cape Town for threepence each. The Hottentots are very
ingenious in carving figures of elephants, antelopes, ostriches,
and otlier animals on the shells, which is done with a sharp
instrument like an awl or bodkin ; it is then rubbed over with
a black greasy substance, which never wears out of the
punctures and lines drawn in the engraving.
When the English first got possession of the Cape,
ostrich feathers were remarkably cheap, and easy to be
obtained ; but the Dutch seeing the eagerness of the Eng
lish to procure them, raised the price immediately. When
I first touched at tlie Cape I could get a very good one
for half a rix-dollar, but on my second arrival I paid from
one and a half to two rix-dollars, and they Avere then very
scarce. In consequence of the ready sale and high price
tlie Dutch -obtained from us, tlie farmers and country peo
ple killed a great number of ostriches, and sent them to
the toAvn. Sir George Young fearing they might all be
destroyed, except in the very remote parts of the colony,
issued stricts orders to prevent their being killed, and
enacting a very seA^ere penalty against those Avho disobeyed.
Besides the ostrich there were several other birds of rare
and beautiful plumage prohibited from being shot.
Peacocks of the same species as ours are numerous. The Wild pea-
wild peacock is more beautiful, and generally found near
the farmers' houses about Stellenbosch. It is an excellent
bird for the table. It was called a bustard by our coun
trymen from its resemblance in size and shape to that bird.

163 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
A penalty of twenty rix-dollars was laid on those who shot
one of them by Sir George Young, Avho introduced the
game laws at the Cape, and obliged eArery one to take out
a license before he could use a fowling piece. Partridges,
pheasants, and bustards of various kinds, are in great plenty
all over the settlement. The Cape grouse is a species of
pheasant. The jungle bird of Asia, Arith the double spur,
is found here. The pelican is also a native. The flamingo
is a common inhabitant of the pools and marshes ; this
bird is larger than a crane, but of the same shape, having
a long thin neck and legs; the wings, back, and part of
the belly a beautiful vermillion, the rest of the plumage a
clear white. The grenadier bird is so called from the tuft on
his head resembling the cap formerly worn by grenadiers.
Its plumage is beautiful. The long-tailed bullfinch with tAvo
long feathers in his tail has a black plumage, mixed with
yelloAV and crimson. Parrots and paroquets of different
kinds, are got towards the eastAvard parts of the colony
among the woods. Besides the common lowries, there is
also a species peculiar to the Cape. Turtle-doves, wild
pidgeons, and Avood-peckers, are in great abundance. The
mountain and Egyptian goose, species much smaller than
ours, are inhabitants of the swamps near the corn fields,
and do a great deal of mischief to the farmers.
The honey bird, or indicator, is common here in the
Avoods : it has two long feathers in its tail, which on being shot
it instantly drops. The secretary bird is a great enemy to ser
pents and all kinds of reptiles, and often discovers to man Avhere

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 16'9
they are by his watching at the spot. This bird has two
long black feathers in his crest or top-knot, which he drops
when fired at ; but he is seldom shot, except by a stranger
who does not know his use, and extraordinary antipathy to
the reptile class. Besides those birds here recounted, I have
already mentioned several others in the course of my narra
tive, and there are many more whose names and qualities
have necessarily escaped my observation.
Of the reptile class I met Avith feAV myself from the little Reptiles and
. , venomous
intercourse I had with the interior, where they are much creatures.
more numerous and dangerous, and where many species of
them are to be found, Avhich are almost unknown nearer
the Cape. Few of those noxious creatures are to be
met with about Cape Town, and the southern extremity
of the peninsula. The inhabitants of the Cape Town may
P enjoy themselves without anxiety or fear of being stung to
death in their liouses, Avhich is not the case in India, Avhere
one is never in complete safety from snakes, serpents, and
the different species of poisonous insects, such as centipieds,
scorpions, &c. I haAre more than once had snakes found
in my bed room. The hooded snake, or covre cape lie, so
much the terror of the Asiatic Avorld, is an inhabitant of
the Cape. Its bite is mortal, and its attack and motions
Arery brisk. By the interposition of ProAidence, hoAvever,
this terrible and fatal creature, by its preparation for at
tack, Avarns persons to be on their defence or avoid it ; for,
when angry and vexed, or meditating an attack on any
©bject, it raises itself up from about half the body to the
Z

170 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
height of three or four feet, the remaining part of the
body and tail being coiled up to accelerate its spring.
When in that position it distends the hood, which is a sort
of membrane such as that Ave find in the wing of a bat,
and lying close along the side of the head and neck and
over the forehead, enables him to dart at the object of
his attack Avith great force and velocity. When the hood
is expanded the creature has a different appearance, being
distended like a fan three or four inches on each side in
breadth, shewing a curved whitish streak like two horse
shoes, and not unlike a pair of spectacles on a man's face.
The preparation of expanding it gives time to those within
its reach to get away.
The covre manille is not known at the Cape, fortunately
for the Hottentots, who, from their lazy habits of always
lying in the sands, or basking on the rocks and among the
grass, might easily fall the unsuspecting victims of this
animal, whose bite is instant death. The puff-adder is often
met with : it is so called from its swelling itself out to a
great size Avhen enraged ; its length is about three feet,
and the colour dark brown or blackish, streaked with bluish
lines ; it is nearly as thick at the tail as the head.
The spring-adder derives its name from springing back
wards at its object. Its spring not a little resembles those
of a tumbler Avhen exhibiting his feats of activity. In
size it is small, from tAvo to three feet in length, but A^ery
dangerous, in particular to a stranger who Avould unavoid
ably be taken unaAvarcs from the manner of its attack. If

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. L71
you pursue the spring-adder, and he finds he cannot make
his escape, Avhen you least expect it, he darts himself back
wards at you, and in all probability will bite if he hits
you ; the bite proves fatal if immediate remedies are not
applied to destroy the effects of the poison.
The boem snake, or tree snake, from five to ten feet
long, and very thick, is of a dark bluish colour, mixed with
Avhite and grey spots ; it suspends itself from the branches
of trees, and waits for its prey passing under, and from
hence it has acquired its name. This reptile often attacks
the natives, and darts particularly at the face. A similar
species is found in the Avoods on the Malabar coast.
Grass snakes, and Avater snakes, are found at the Cape,
as also toads and frogs of an immense size. At night the
croaking of the frogs annoys one extremely ; a great num
ber of them seem to unite in a kind of cadence, and re
gularly commence each peal of croaking, quite different from
any thing known in Europe ; Avhen one leaves off all the
rest cease immediately.
Scorpions and centipedes are very common. The black insects.
scorpion is large and dangerous. The large black spider
is also reckoned amongst the venomous creatures.
Land turtles are every Avhere to be met with craAvling
about in the sand ; the blacks broil them, separate the shell,
and eat them ; they make excellent soup. The guana is
found here, and though so disgusting a creature in ap
pearance, is delicious food, as white and tender as a chicken,
2 2

172 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
but more rich and luscious ; it strongly resembles a young
crocodile in shape.
Red and green locusts at certain seasons fly about in
great numbers, and do much mischief to the vegetable
productions. In the interior the damage they commit is
very great to the farmers ; Avhole fields are destroyed, and
eaten up in a feAV hours. The south-east Avind is a great
enemy to them, dispersing and driving them in vast num
bers out to sea. I have, Avhilst at anchor, seen many
come on board tired and exhausted. They are of a very
beautiful colour. The Caffrees and Hottentots, like the
natives of Egypt, eat them for food at the season when
they lose their wings, and are found in heaps on the
ground. Muskittoes though they are found in this climate, and may
in the interior parts be troublesome, are not at all so in
Cape Toavii. The small sand fly, Avhich is scarcely visible,
annoys one very much in the hot season in passing over
the sands. Flies are in swarms all over the liouses, and
about the yards and offices. The meat and articles on the
table, are covered instantly with them, and you can scarcely
eat your victuals, or drink out of a vessel, Avithout SAval-
lowing a number of them. The ladies at the Cape have
small black slave boys, with Avhisks and bunches of ostrich
or peacocks* feathers, standing behind their chairs to keep
them off. The horses are much tormented by the flies,
particularly one species like our wasp, called the horse fly,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 173
which perseveres in sticking fast till he fills himself with
the blood, rendering the animal quite furious and ungo
vernable Avith pain; and though you gallop off to get rid
of them for a mile or two, yet they persist in following
till they have accomplished their object.
Beetles are found of various kinds. .The large black
beetles are seen busily at Arork in collecting the dung of
horses and oxen, forming it into round balls and rolling it
to their habitations. The ingenuity and industry Avith which
they carry on this employment is very surprising. When
one of them finds a ball too heavy to be rolled up an
ascent, he calls for the assistance of another ; and if their
united efforts cannot drive this ball before them, they turn
their backs and push Avith their hind parts till they over
come the difficulty. These balls are much larger than
marbles, rounded and smoothed with great art and dexte
rity. There are few things I have taken more pleasure in
observing than the laborious and persevering exertions of
these ingenious insects.
Cock-roaches are not numerous ; and those found here,
I believe, are rather brought accidentally in ships from
India than natives of the country. Ants of every descrip
tion abound here, but are not so troublesome, particularly
in the houses, as in India. The white ant, commonly called
termite, infests the fields and open country, builds nests in
the ground, casting up pyramids of earth from three to
six feet high of so solid a consistence that it is impenetra
ble except to a pick-axe. These ants destroy all kinds of

174 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Avood Avhich comes in their way. Caterpillars, and those
insects Avhich live on fruit, leaves, and vegetables, do much
mischief to the cultivated parts, particularly the vine
plants.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 175

CHAPTER XL
Vineyards about Cape Toivn— Manner of rearing and plant
ing Vines — Mode of making Wine — Various Sorts of Wine
made — Bad Management of the Dutch in rearing and
planting the Vines — Several Species of an excellent Qua
lity — Constantia Wine — The Farm and Village of Con
stantia — Quality of the Grape — Other Wines of a superior
Quality — Brandy Wine, or Spirits made from the Stalks
and Refuse — Sugar Canes-— Barley, &c.
1 Have iioav given such a Aaew of the local situation, and of Descriptionof the vine-
the animal and vegetable productions of the Cape, as will enable yards, and
the reader to form an idea of what presents itself chiefly to the making wine
at the Cape.
attention of the visitor of this colony. Before I leave the
part of the country south of Cape ToAvn, I have yet to
give a^ vieAV of the village of Constantia and its vineyards,
with the manner of planting and rearing the vines at the
Cape, their different qualities and the several kinds of
wine Avhich are made.
About Wineberg, Round-a-bosch, Witte Boem, and other
spots in the neighbourhood of Cape Town, are several fields
planted with vines, well fenced in and bounded by hedges
of Ioav oak trees, myrtle, quince, and others of the shrub
kind, to keep off deer and cattle, and to shelter them
from the violence of the winds. These fields are also laid
4

J7o THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
out into lesser divisions with hedges, the better to secure
Manner of the tender shoots from the violence of tlie blast. The vines
vineT.S are planted and brought up in those enclosed spaces in
regular toavs or ridges, like drills of potatoes or beans in
Europe. They are not suffered to grow up or spread out
their branches, except one or two particular species which
produce the grapes used at table or dried for raisins ; these
are permitted to grow and spread in the same way as our hot
house vines, and are usually planted against the walls of
their liouses ; the shoots form pretty arbours and shades
before the Avindows, or over the porches of their doors,
spreading very much and bearing most abundantly.
In the vineyards the plants are regularly pruned, and
never suffered to grow more than three feet high ; they are
supported by tAvigs crossing each other, and intenvoven to
keep the vine shoots from dropping or falling to the
ground with the weight of the fruit. These vines have the
appearance of low currant bushes, being seldom suffered to
grow higher. About Constantia and Wineberg to the south
of Cape Town, and eastwards at the villages of Franche
Hoeke, Drakensteen, the Great and Little Pari, and further
on towards Stellenbosch, Swellendam, and the adjoining
country, are a great number of Aine plantations, and no
production here is so abundant or so profitable to the plan
ter. It is computed that an acre of Amines may contain
about five thousand stocks or shoots which may produce,
on a moderate calculation, seven hundred gallons of wine.
Various sorts The Avines made at the Cape are of various qualities, and
of wine. 2

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 177
called Constantia, Muscadel, Moselle, Cape, Madeira, Vin
de Grave, and Rhenish ; the latter is so called from some
resemblance iu taste to the European wine bearing the
same name. They are all very much inferior to those of
Europe ; rather from the mode of manufacturing the grape
into wine, and from not paying proper attention to the
culture and nurture of the plant, than from any natural
defect in the quality of the grape : for it is a well known
fact, that the grapes in general at the Cape are inferior to
none of any part of the world, and some kinds are even
much richer than those which, in Europe, produce far su
perior Avines. The Dutch have never arrived to any per- Bad manage-
fection in the art of making wine, or the rearing of vine Dutch in the
shoots. As this subject appeared to me of very consider
able importance, I bestowed some pains in collecting infor
mation with regard to it, and the observations I was ena
bled to make may be found not altogether uninteresting.
The defects hi the Cape wine proceed from the avarice of
the planter on the one hand, and his extreme indolence on
the other. His contracted disposition prevents him from
ever foregoing a little present emolument for much greater
acquisitions in prospect. Antipathy to laborious exertion,
and a sordid desire of saving, combine to prevent the plan
ters from allowing the grapes' to be raised to any height
from the ground by standards, as this would require more
Avork and care in' the management of them, and a greater
expense of wood for supporting the shoots ; though at the
same time it is allowed that it would materially improve
A A

178 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the quality of the grape besides adding considerably to the
produce. It is indeed natural to suppose that the fruit, by
growing so near the ground, imbibes many corrupting par
ticles ; nor can it be doubted that it is from the soil in
which it grows that the grape derives that particular flavour
peculiar to the wine made at the Cape of Good Hope-
The Dutch planter also not content with the fruit itself,
often mixes both leaves and stalks in the wine-press to in
crease the quantity by the addition of their juice. The
grapes are too often pulled before ripe from the fear of
losing any by birds, insects, or other causes ; nor is the
wine alloAved a sufficient time to purify itself by a proper
fermentation, and to acquire a ripe and agreeable flavour,
but is immediately from the press put into butts which
are Avell caulked up with lime. A quantity of sulphur
which at the same time is thrown into it, is all the fur
ther means employed for its purification. I have often
perceived a sediment in the Cape wine, which when ana-
lized was found to be impregnated with sugar of lead and
sulphureous particles. The Dutch allege that thedearness
and scarcity of wood, with the violent winds that often
prevail, will not allow them to suffer the grapes to grow
higher, and that the juice from the leaves and stalks gives
a greater zest to the wine. These arguments upon exami
nation were considered by our countrymen as extremely
futile, and not justified by experience. Since the English
arrived in the settlement some farmers have at their sug
gestion considerably improved the quality of their wines,
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. J 79
and have paid more attention to the planting and squeez
ing the grapes. Our countrymen indeed have it not in
their power to become adepts in the making of wine, as
that is not a species of produce granted to their climate;
but good sense and activity soon find out remedies for
defects in new situations; and the English at the Cape
found themselves under the necessity of attending seriously
to this article from the exorbitant prices which the mer
chants charged for European wines. At one time the dif
ferent regimental messes were forced to come to a resolu
tion not to drink any but Cape wine ; and this had a
temporary effect in lowering the price of port, which had
been raised to a degree altogether extravagant. The Cape
wine has one good effect on the body, that it keeps it
moderately open; and a bottle or two serves to an Euro
pean as a purgative draught. A constant and free use of
it however irritates the bowels, probably proceeding from
the sulphur and other substances used iir fining it ; and
perhaps still more from the quality of the wine itself Avhich
has naturally a great degree of acidity.
A few Englishmen undertook to make wrine here, and for
some time succeeded very well; but not having the advan
tage of a large establishment of slaves, and of being them
selves proprietors of the ground, they Avere at length com
pelled to abandon their undertaking by the jealousy of the
Dutch, Avho discouraged these adventurers by every means
in their power, and employed every art to prevent Eng
lishmen from interfering in this article of trade. The grapes
a a 2

180 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
are in general not inferior to those of Lisbon or France,
and are reckoned in many instances, as I have observed,
to be of a richer and more luscious quality. It is there
fore a matter of serious regret to the possessors of the
Cape, that this valuable article has not been more attended
to, as the revenue of the colony Avould be benefited in a
degree not to be calculated by an extensive cultivation of
vineyards, and a great trade would by this means be esta
blished here to all parts of the world. The resources arising
from such a trade would at once tend to stimulate the in
dustry of the inhabitants, and afford the means of general
improvement. The Dutch hitherto have appeared altoge
ther blind to their true interests : the farmers go on in their
old and rude way, equally inattentive to private advantage
and the public good. Though the quantity of wine made
at the Cape is very considerable, yet it is little esteemed
from its poorness and insipidity, and comparatively no ad
vantage is derived from the sale of- it to the settlement.
In India no Englishman Avould buy it; nor would a Cap-
tain of an East-Indiaman think it worth room in his ship.
Were the possession of the Cape of Good Hope to remain
permanent Avith Great-Britain, in some little time, by at
tention to this valuable article, great and solid advantages
might be secured to this country. The British Avould no
longer be compelled to accede to those extravagant de
mands and extortions of the planters in the island of Ma
deira, and other foreign countries from whence we are at
present under the necessity of purchasing; and less incbn-
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 181
venience would arise Avhen at war with France and Spain,
from our having excellent wines made in a British colony.
The sweet, luscious, and excellent wine called Constantia, Village of
1-11 -n • i Constantia.
so highly esteemed in Europe, is made in only one parti
cular spot at the Cape of Good Hope. The village where
this wine is made is called Constantia whence it derives its
name. The village of Constantia is delightfully situated
near the foot of a range of pleasant green hills about half
way betAveen Musenberg and Wineberg. It is distant about
.eight or nine miles from Cape Town, Avith which it is con
nected by a pleasant and romantic road, having several very
handsome houses and gardens belonging to the Dutch on
either side of the way. Every stranger who arrives at the
Cape, if his time and other circumstances will alloAV of it,
makes a point of visiting the village of Constantia, and those
famous wine plantations ; for these with the Table Moun
tain are looked upon as the great and first objects of curio
sity at the Cape. There are only two liouses on the estate,
but the offices, farm-yards, and stores, Avhere the wine is
made and kept, are so very extensive that Constantia ob
tains tlie name of a village and appears so to the eye.
Round the vineyards, dwelling-houses, and offices, are plea
sant groves of the silver-tree, besides oak, elms, and other
smaller plants, which completely shelter it in every direction,
and hide it from the view till you wind round the hill,
and come quite close to it. There are tAvo distinct and
Separate plantations of vines here, each of a different colour

182 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and quality, though both are called Constantia wines. The
first farm called Great Constantia produces the red wine of
that name ; and at Lesser Constantia, in its vicinity, the white
is made. The farm, which alone produces this richly . fla
voured wine, belongs to a Dutchman, Mynheer Pluter, and
has been long in his family.
Quality of The grape from which this wine is extracted, is a species
the grape. at- r
of the Muscadel, extremely rich, sweet, and luscious. Its
qualities proceed in some measure from the situation and
soil Avhich are particularly favourable; but the exquisite
flavour is chiefly to be attributed to the great care taken
in the rearing, dressing, and encouragement of the vines, in
preserving the grapes wholly clean from sand, and free
from the ravages of the insects which usually attack them
Precautions when full ripe. With the cleanliness and healthy state of
taken in . .
pressing the the grape when put into the press, another cause contri
butes much to the goodness of the wine, the not suffering
the leaves, stalks, or unripe fruit to be mixed in the press,
as is clone by the other Dutch farmers. If the same atten
tion was paid to the vines in other parts of the colony,
and the same precautions used in compressing the fruit,
Cape Avine would no longer labour under its present disre
pute. The grapes of Constantia are indeed larger, and have
a richer and more fleshy pulp than those of any other farm,
and consequently give more juice in proportion. There must
however be many parts of the soil equally adapted to the
rearing of grapes as this of Constantia, although from negli-

juice.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 183
gence overlooked ; for those spots that require least trou
ble in the turning up or dressing, are universally preferred
by the farmers here in laying out their plantations.
The quantity of wine made on the farms of Constantia, Quantity
x J made au>
on an average, is about seventy-five leagers a year, each nuaity,
leager containing upwards of one hundred and fifty gallons
of our measure. It is a SAveet, heaAy, and luscious Avine,
not fit to be drunk in any quantity, but chiefly suited to a
dessert, as a couple of glasses are quite as much as one
would desire to drink at a time. It is even here exces
sively dear and difficult to be procured, and must be often
bespoke a considerable time. The captains of vessels touch
ing here, who have wished to procure a quantity of it, have
been frequently obliged to contract for it a year or tAvo
before the wine was made.
Under the Dutch government the farmer divided the
produce into three parts ; one-third he was obliged to fur
nish, at a certain price, to the Dutch East-India Com
pany* who sent it to the government in Holland. Another
proportion was furnished to certain of the inhabitants of
Cape Town, chiefly the people in high office and power, at
the same rate ; and the remaining quantity he was at li
berty to dispose of at what price he could to the passen
gers, and captains of ships of all nations. The price to
strangers varied according to circumstances ; when there was
any deficiency in the produce of his farm, the price was
always raised in proportion. The Dutch inhabitants of Cape
Town, at whose houses and tables the passengers are ac-

184 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
commodated, rarely ever produce a drop of this wine, ex
cept upon very extraordinary occasions. The Dutch indeed
are sufficiently careful never to open a bottle of this valua
ble liquor at their tables, unless they perceive it may serve
their own purposes. A rich Englishman who has made his
fortune in India, and from whom they expect a handsome
present of tea, sugar-candy, or muslin, is honoured noAV
and then with a bottle of Constantia at the dessert ; but a
British officer who is not supposed to be flush of money
or valuable articles, except where he is a favourite with
the lady of the house, may go without it all the time he
remains here.
When a bottle of Constantia is to be bought at the Cape
ToAvn, which is but seldom the case, and even then it re
quires some management to procure it, it is never sold
under a couple of dollars. But it generally happens that
strangers, although they procure this prize, are still as far
as ever from tasting real Constantia, as there is another
kind of SAA-eet, rich Anne, which the Dutch frequently pass
off for it.
One may fortunately, by dint of persuasion, get at the
village of Constantia, from Mynheer Pluter, a small caste
containing about twenty gallons for ten or twelve pounds
sterling ; a stranger can seldom procure a larger quantity
at the same time ; indeed he must always be particularly
recommended to take any quantity he can obtain, and also to
prevent having the other heavy, sweet Avine imposed upon him
Character of for Constantia. Mr. Pluter has a great number of visitors

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. U5
to his farm, Avho are equally attracted by the beauty -of ihe owner of
, n „ , , . „ . , , . ,. ... Constantia.
the place, and the desire of seeing the vine plantations, with
the maimer of making the Avine. He is in every respect
a complete Dutchman. For though used to such a variety
of the first company, and gentlemen of high civil, and
military situations, who always pay liberally, and Avhom it
is strongly his interest to encourage to his farm by civility,
and a suavity of manners, he is generally morose, uncouth,
and churlish in his manners ; and it is rare to see him in
a good humour, though he gains a great profit by enter
taining his occasional guests with his nectar. Money is the
idol of the Dutch; yet they receive it without thanking
those who bring it, or encouraging them to come again by
civility and attention ; and Avhen they have once received
their extravagant demand, they laugh at the folly of our
countrymen for their indifference in parting with that money
Avhich is their own idol.
I was so unfortunate as not to find this gentleman in a
good humour during the two or three visits I made to his
farm, and could scarcely get a bottle of wine, or leave to
look at his wine vaults and presses, not having brought
any particular recommendation from his friends at the
Cape, which from pride he regularly exacts. I relied how
ever on what I knew of a Dutchman's partiality for Eng
lish customers ; but on my requesting leave to see the place,
he himself cariie out and informed me the gentleman Avas
not at home. The other officers who were along with me,
however, and who understood his disposition better, and
B i.

186 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the requisite management, got some of the slaves for a
present to get us Avine, and shew us the plantations and
manner of manufacturing the grapes into wine ; nor did we
take the smallest notice of the owner's surliness, and boorish
manners when we afterAvards met him, but went on to sa
tisfy our curiosity, and obtain the Avine and information
we wanted. If company arrh/es before he is dressed, and
has got over his usual quantity of pipes of tobacco> he
denies himself, and does not wish to admit them, unless he is
pretty sure of getting hard dollars ; those perfectly acquainted
Avith this, take care to let the slaves see the cash, on Avhich
he sends any quantity into an arbour in the garden, and when
the bill is called he charges two Spanish dollars a bottle,
equal to lis. 6d. British. Some allowance must certainly
be made for Mynheer Pluter's moroseness, as it is im
possible for him at all times to attend to the reception of
his visitors, some of whom by their teizing and fonvard lo
quacity, might render themselves extremely troublesome,
and disagreeable to his grave and solemn habits. His slaves
are exceedingly attentive and communicative, Avhen alloAved
to wait on and conduct strangers, finding it highly to their
advantage, as they always get something for themselves.
Mr. Pluter's wine vaults are very extensive and neatly laid
out, and every thing- is in much better order than at any
wine vaults, other wine farm I have seen. In the vaults and wine cel
lars of the merchants at Cape Town, the wine is kept in
very large butts or* vessels somewhat shaped like the
hogshead, but the rotundity is vastly greater in proportion.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 187
Those vessels are made of mahogany, or a wood very much re
sembling it, very thick, highly polished, and kept clean as our
dining tables ; they are bound round with great brass hoops,
and the edges are also secured by the same metal, so that
no accident or time can damage them. Each of those butts
or resenroirs, which they call leagers, though an inapplica
ble term, as a leager is a measure of one hundred and fifty
gallons, will contain from six to seven hundred gallons. The
bung-holes are covered Arith plates of brass hasped down
and locked ; the cocks are also strong and large with locks
and keys to them, so that the slaves are prevented from
embezzling any of the wine, as they are never opened but
in presence of one of the proprietors. Some of those leagers
are elegantly carved and ornamented with various figures.
The next wine in estimation to the Constantia is a kind
of Muscadel, or as they call it here Cape Madeira. The
colour of this Avine is a deep violet, and the appearance
thick and muddy. Cape Madeira is a heavy, SAveetish wine, Cape Ma.
Qfij-ra
with a stronger body than the generality of what is made
here ; for the various kinds of white wines at the Cape are
thin, light, and acid. A person may drink five or six bot
tles without being intoxicated ; and it is this wine which is
generally used at the tables of the colonists. Except the
red Constantia no wine made at the Cape is ever so high-
coloured as port or claret.
I scarcely ever drank any palatable wine at the tables of
the Dutch, as they produce mostly unripe wine for do
mestic consumption; while they dispose of that which is
b b 2

188 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
become ripened, for this Avine improves Avonderfully by age,
to the captains of trading Aresscls. This is an invariable
custom Avhich they scarcely ever deviate from ; as the Avine
is. reckoned in with the board and lodging at the Dutch
houses, and no extra price paid for it, they generally giAre
their guests a neAV, insipid, and A'ery indifferent sort, such
as may be had in the wine houses for t>vo or three pence
Sweet wines, a bottle. There are two or three kinds of sweet wine
made, but too heavy to drink after meals. The Steen wine
has a sparkling quality and tartish taste, something like
Vin de Grave, but much inferior in flavour. The Hanepod
made from a large white grape is very rich, but scarce and
dear, and only used by the ladies at their parties in the
same manner as the Constantia. The grapes from Avhich
this wine is made are chiefly dried, and preserved for rai
sins to eat at desserts.
Those wines are all of various prices and qualities, and
differ much in their flavour, according to the difference of
the soil the grape is reared in. The juice expressed from
the very same species of grape tastes differently in some
particular farms. Except at Constantia the soil on the
southern side of Cape Town, and all this part of the penin
sula, does not yield so rich grapes as tlie more eastern
parts towards Drakenstien, Franche Hoek, the Pari Village,
and Stellenbosch, and the country bordering on Hottentot
Holland. Cape Madeira, and the other wines of the first quality,
are sold at from twenty to thirty pounds a leager ©f
7.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 18.9
one hundred and fifty gallons ; formerly it Avas much
cheaper ; and the common or poorer sort generally drunk at
the tables, on the first arrival of the English, might be had
for fourpenee or sixpence a gallon, but Avas afterAvards raised
to a shilling. A leager of the poorer species brings about
eight or nine pounds British currency.
. Besides Avine, the farmers make a great quantity of a Cape brandy,
strong, fiery spirit, which they call brandy- wine, and the
British Cape brandy. I thought on my first arrival Avhen
I tasted this spirit it Avas distilled from malt, as it bore a
strong resemblance' to Irish Avhiskey, but Avas still stronger,
harsher, and more fiery ; but on inquiry I found that the
planters principally extract it from the husks and stalks
of compressed grapes by distillation. It has been a long-
lime in use here, though seldom drunk by any of the
principal Dutch, but is sold to the unfortunate Hottentots,
and hordes of Caffrees and natives of the interior, avIio
seem very fond of it, and barter for it their cattle and the
little produce of their labour. It is a very bad and per
nicious liquor, and our government, while we retained the
Cape, much discouraged its sale to the soldiers. It is so
fiery that it absolutely burns and scalds the throat and
stomach when drunk raw and unmixed. Our common sol
diers, though so notoriously fond of drinking' spirituous li
quors, could scarcely get a glass of it down.
Though sugar canes grow spontaneously in many parts Sugarcane*
of the colony, the Dutch never paid any attention to their
cultivation, from which they might have derived both sugar

190 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and rum. The smallest quantity of those articles has never
been manufactured at the Cape. The sugar cane would
here require far less care and attention than in the West-
India islands, from a variety of circumstances ; and its • cul
tivation might be carried to any extent with incalculable
profit; yet these advantages haAre scarcely ever been
noticed.
Remarks on Every European nation acknowledges the importance of
this subject. L
the West-India islands, from the tAvo great staple commo
dities of sugar and rum. How much blood has been shed
between the different PoAvers in the conquest and attain
ment of them ; Avhile numberless lives haAre fallen victims
to the unhealthy climate. Properties to an immense amount,
consisting of large plantations of sugar canes, have often
been destroyed in one night by furious hurricanes and tor
nadoes. Insects and vermin destroy another great propor
tion ; Avhile the heat is so intolerable that the planter can
not oversee his own works, much less assist by any exer
tion of his own. Those disadvantages are however still borne
up against from the value of the sugar and rum Avhich they
afford. The Cape of Good Hope labours under none of
those disadvantageous circumstances. Though it is some
times subject to violent winds, yet they never arise to that
degree as the tornadoes in the West-Indies, nor are their
consequences to be at all compared. The climate is mild,
temperate, and healthy ; the soil clean and not subject to
those Aveeds and other obstructions usually found in tropi
cal climates, which suddenly spring up and choak the ten-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 191
der plants. Insects and vermin do but little damage com
pared to what is experienced in other parts of the Avorld
which can afford the same produce. The planter here can
stand the whole day exposed to the sun without any ill
consequences, and can assist with his OAvn bodily labour, if
his circumstances require it, or inclination prompt him.
When the sugar cane grows so Avell spontaneously, it is
surely capable of being brought to much more perfection
by the care and culture of man.
The Dutch, in exculpation of their OAvn wrant of enter
prise, allege that it Avould require more slaves than they
can afford, or Avould risk introducing into the colony ; and
that those already in their possession are only sufficient
for their household and domestic purposes. These reason
ings Avith regard to foreign slaves may hold good ; but
there is a still greater benefit to be derived from entirely
evading that objection, and employing the Hottentots and
other natives of the interior. By this means the valuable
articles in question might be raised, and at the same time
the natiA^es brought to a degree of civilization and to habits
of industry, from which comfort to themselves and wealth
to their employers would speedily arise. When I talked to
the Dutch on this subject, they became silent and cha
grined, and seemed to think those reasons unanswerable.
At times Avhen they entered into any conversation on the sub
ject, they would speak of their government with the greatest
detestation and contempt, for losing by its narrow policy
many advantages which the colony possessed from nature.
4

192 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Though barley is produced at the Cape, and a good deal
of it sowed annually, the Dutch seldom make beer; and
what they do make is of a very indifferent quality : the
quantity indeed scarcely deserves to be mentioned. The
malt liquor drunk here comes all from Europe, and is
consequently very dear. The Dutch usually cut down their
barley in a green state for their horses.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 193

CHAPTER XII.
Journey to Stellenbosch — Strickland a Post for Cavalry —
Stellenbosch — Mountains of Parlberg — Swellendam — Graaf
Reynet — Plettenberg Bay — Account of the Dutch Faxmers
and Planters — Their Manner of Living — Their Tillage and
Husbandry — Domestic Pursuits — Characters and Customs—
Treatment of their Cattle and Slaves — Manner of carrying
on the various Branches of Husbandry — In want of Im
provement of every Kind — The Colony in a very imperfect
State owing to the bad Management of its Inhabitants —
Plans of Improvement.
J. Have now described whatever appeared most Avorthy of
notice in that tract of country immediately connected with
Cape Town, the south extremity and those parts border
ing on Hottentot Holland. I shall now proceed to describe
the country east of the Cape, which I visited during my
stay here on my Avay from India to Europe.
Hearing that the village of Stellenbosch was worth visit- Journey.
ing, I made one of a party for that purpose ; and having
obtained at a tolerably high price a waggon and six horses,
Ave set out from Cape Town early in the evening, so as to arrive
at our destination about breakfast time next morning, the dis
tance being about thirty miles Avith a heavy sandy road most of
C c

194 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the Avay. Proceeding out of the toAvn by the castle, we
skirted the head of Table Bay along the sandy beach for
about three miles, when leaving the shore and entering the
country immediately opposite Cape Town, we began to as
cend a hill which, though not steep, was extremely difficult
to the horses on account of the loose sand into which the
wheels of the waggon continually sunk. After coming to
the Sop Ave stopped, and took some time in surveying the
tOAvn, and the appearance of the bay, the Table, and other
hills OATer it from this side, Avhich afforded a very charming
prospect. We noAV began to descend by a winding road
round the hill we just came up, and found ourselves in an
open sandy country, with a few plants, shrubs, and small
trees, scattered over a wide range of country. On Our left
Ave observed a feAV plantations and Dutchmen's houses, from
Avhence the toAvn was supplied with fruit, vegetables, eggs.,
poultry, and other market stuff.
After crossing this barren sandy plain, Ave came to a
greener, pleasanter, but more hilly country, Avith ranges of
Strickland a mountains at a distance rising above each other. After
vairy. travelling about sixteen miles Ave came to a place called
Strickland, where is a military post which Sir James Craig
erected in 1796, to check and keep in aAve the turbulent
Dutch fanners. There are barracks here for cavalry or in
fantry, and ranges of stables for near half a regiment of
dragoons ; it. is the first out-post from Cape ToAVn on this
side, and is a pass of some importance. The direct route
from Cape Town into Hottentot Holland, and the interior
2

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 195
of the colony, is by this way, and the post of Strickland
is situated at the commencement of a range of rather steep
hills, called the Tigerberg or Tiger Mountain. At the foot
of those hills round us were several farm-houses and plea
sant plantations of grapes, corn, and vegetables, surrounded
with thick hedges of oak, myrtle, jessamine, and laurel,
rows of the silver-tree and other evergreens. Between the
hills Avere several Aralleys covered Avith verdure, and having
seATeral streams of water running through them. Sheep and
cattle Avere allowed to graze here all day, and at night
were driven into pens and stables.
After passing the valley which separates the Tiger Moun
tain from a neighbouring one, Ave again found ourselves
in a flat sandy country, but more elevated than that Ave
had crossed before. Several lakes or ponds of water Avere
interspersed in the hollows of the sand hills, visited oy
different kinds of cranes, gulls, teal, and other water foAvl.
In a short time afterwards we arrived at the village of stellenbosch.
Stellenbosch, Avhich is situated in the midst of a number of
sandy hills, the town lying very Ioav. The place contains
about twenty-five or thirty houses, large and Avell built in
one long and regular street, and has about one hundred
Avhite inhabitants. A Lutheran church at the upper end of
the street, and a small seminary where black children are
chiefly educated, add much to the appearance of the vil
lage. A few of the liouses accommodate visitors in the same
way as the Cape Town, and a kind of inn had been, esta
blished which was much pleasanter to our party, as we
c c 2

(96 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
enjoyed more society Avith Englishmen who preferred it to
the Dutch conversation and manners. The town consists of
one irregular street bending round where the sand hills
prevent it from running in a straight line. Several of the
houses are painted green, and toavs of trees are planted
before them. Stellenbosch, though prettily situated in the
midst of hills, and the town rather neatly built, is far from
being a desirable residence. The heat is uncommonly great
from the reflection of the loose white sand of the surround-
Gardens and ing hills. Ill the neighbourhood of the town are some
.... a o
plantations m
the neigh- plantations and gardens belonging to the Dutch gentlemen
of Cape Town, avIio often come here to stay during the
violence of the south-east wind, which is not so inconvenient
or felt so strongly here, from the sheltered situation of the
Game. village. The country around abounds in game, several
species of the antelope and deer, hares, wild pigeons, fla
mingoes, wild peacocks and bustards. The Hottentots, who
accompanied our party on the different excursions Ave took
to some extent in every direction from Stellenbosch, were
exceedingly active sportsmen and excellent marksmen.
Mountain of Two or three days journey from Stellenbosch lies an ex-
Parlberg. J J J
tensive range of mountains, which bound the sandy plains
and hills for a great space. The principal mountain is called
the Parlberg, which with a few others in its vicinity are
pretty well wooded with oak, silver-trees, shrubs, and some
timber trees peculiar to the Cape. On the flat spaces the
castor oil shrub, Cape olive, indigo plant, cochineal, cotton,
and coffee tree, are very common ; but not cultivated to

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 197
any advantage or indeed used to any extent by the indo
lent farmers.
Heath, and a great variety of plants, are found here in Plants.
profusion. All this tract of country goes under the deno
mination of the Pari, and is fruitful in wine, corn, cattle,
and those articles already mentioned to belong to the colony.
The vallies amidst those mountains .contain the villages of
the tAvo Drakensteens, Franche Hoek, and the Pari. There
are besides a feAV scattered houses and plantations, Avherever
convenient and fertile spots allow of easy cultivation. The
village of the Pari is the largest of those mentioned. It
contains about thirty houses in two rows or lines forming
a long and extended street. The church stands in the centre
of this village, and several of the slaves, free people of co
lour, and a few of the domesticated Hottentots, attend the
service, being converted to the established religion of the
colony. Those villages produce a considerable quantity of
Avine, which with some cattle is the staple commodity with
Avhich they supply Cape Town.
The province of Swellendam is two or three days journey Swellendam.
from the Pari country, and is one of the most extensive in
the colony. The journey by land to Swellendam is very
long, tedious, and in many parts extremely difficult, besides
being interrupted by several broad rivers which must be
passed; and at some of those no boats are stationed. In
the rainy seasons when the rivers in consequence sAvell, and
become extremely rapid, a traveller has to wait till the
violence* of the current is abated. The passes through the
5

19&

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPf .

HottentotHolland'sKloof.

District of
of Swellen
dam.

Produce.

different mountains, the steep ascents at one side, and the
declivities on the other which one must afterwards descend,
are dangerous to a great degree ; but are indeed still more
so in appearance than reality, as the astonishing dexterity
of the Avaggon drivers, and the docility of the cattle, greatly
tend to prevent any accident. Hottentot Holland's Kloof,
thirty-six miles from Cape Town, and another pass through
the Black Mountain, might be sufficient to deter the timid
from evev entering the interior of the country ; wild, awful
and steep to a very great degree, a stranger is surprised at
finding he has passed them in safety. The poor cattle suf
fer severely in those difficult places, for the Dutch farmers
seem to have lost all feeling in their treatment of them.
The cruelty I have seen those wretched and willing animals
experience, from the merciless hand of their owners through
all this journey, has frequently both shocked and disgusted
me. Even those Hottentots, who are looked on by the
colonists as mere ignorant savages, express their pity and hor
ror at such barbarity, and endeavour as far as lies in their
power to alleviate the miseries of those unfortunate brutes.
The district of SAvellendam contains a very considerable
number of plantations. The village itself is small, consist
ing of about tAventy or thirty liouses neat enough in ap
pearance, and well planted round. The inhabitants in their
manners are mere country boors, and attend to nothing else
but husbandry. Its chief produce is timber, dried fruit,
corn, wrine, oxen, sheep, butter, and a species of soap made
from the fat of beef and sheep, with the ashes of some

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. I99
particular plants; it resembles in appearance bluish spotted
marble. Antelopes, steen-bocks, and all species of the deer
kind, with game of every sort peculiar to the interior, are
found here in great abundance ; and the botanist has a
wide field for exercising his ingenuity. Swellendam district
stands much in need of further cultivation ; many fertile
tracts are unheeded and unnoticed, and many of the spots
which are inhabited, and brought under cultivation, are in
want of timber and other useful articles. The plantations
are so much scattered and so wide asunder, as to be able
to render little assistance to each otlier in case of any attack.
The provinces of Graaf Reynet, which borders on the north- Graaf Rey-
east part of the colony, is of great extent, and divided into
several districts ; it supplies Cape Town Avith a considerable
quantity of cattle, and some corn, wine, and timber.
The village of Graaf Reynet, situated in the drosdy or
principal district, contains only a feAV houses, but there are
several in the neighbourhood belonging to the Dutch boors
and planters. It is about five hundred miles from the
Cape Town, in latitude 31° 11' south, and 26° east longi
tude. The English established a military post at Graaf
Reynet, Avith a block house and barracks for two compa
nies of foot, who are stationed here to check the Dutch
planters, and to prevent them from again exercising their
outrages on the Hottentots and the Caffrees. The Dutch Conduct of
ii- the Dutch
settlers here have ever been exceedingly . turbulent and ill- farmers to
, *" ., the natives.
disposed towards their own government as Avell as ours,
and Avere the cause of all the disturbances Avhich happened

200 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in Lord Macartney's time, and the early period of Sir
George Young's government here. The colonists of this
district Ave re continually at Avar Avith the unfortunate Hot
tentots and Caffrees, and behaved with great cruelty toAvards
them. By successive encroachments they drove them out
of their habitations, and from one part to another, till
they at length forced them back into the Avild uncultivated
parts ; and though these poor wretches complained to the
government of Cape Toavii, and applied for redress, it Avas
become so impotent and embarrassed that it could afford
them none. Those haughty Dutch boors, so far removed
from the seat of government, disregarded its authority, turned
its commands into derision, and continued to oppress the
poor natives, shewing them no mercy Avherever they met
Avith them. This conduct called for the exertions of
our government to suppress and keep doAvn the rebellious
spirit of the planters. Lord Macartney had determined to
prevent them from using the natives Avith such cruelty and
injustice ; he accordingly sent a force against them Avhich
Avith some trouble reduced them to order, and a military
force Avas stationed here to prevent any return of the dis
turbances. The hatred and aversion Avhich those boors en
tertained for the English government for not sanctioning
their unwarrantable conduct was extreme, and in the Avars
and disturbances, Avhich afterAvards broke out between the
natives and ourselves, they were strongly suspected of being1
the instigators of the deluded Hottentots and Caffrees.
There is a civil government at Graaf Reynet, a court to

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 201
hear and adjust differences under a landrost or justice of the
peace, who at certain seasons reports all proceedings to the
GoArernor at Cape Town. The military enforce the laAvs,
and assist the president of this court of justice Avhen necessary.
The inhabitants being so far removed into the country, trust
mostly to their oavii produce and manufactures. Some of
the principal farmers make journeys once or twice a year,
in their waggons to Cape Town, to obtain such things as
they cannot Avell do without, and which cannot be procured
here. Graaf Reynet possessses adA^antages Avhich should not be
overlooked, and might, by proper management, be made of
great use and benefit to our government. The colonists, in
order to be reduced to a proper subordination, ought to be
confined to certain limits, and to be prevented from com
mitting injuries on the natives. The district possesses the
means of supplying with provisions not only Cape Town,
but the casual demands of ships touching there; and by
maintaining a friendly intercourse with the natives, a supply
might be obtained of cattle, fruit, vegetables, poultry, and
corn, at perhaps a still cheaper rate. Many inconveniences
arise from alloAving the colonists to spread so extensively.
They are subject to the warfare of the Caffrees and Boschjies
Hottentots, who, irritated at being driven from their native
lands and treated with such sanguinary cruelty, look with
detestation and abhorrence on the Dutch boors in this quarter,
and retaliate whenever it is in their power. The ferocity of
these natives against the boors has, indeed, arisen from a long
Dd

202 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
course of ill-usage, and not from any natural inhumanity of
disposition ; for to unprotected travellers avIio venture into
their country, they often shew much civility and hospita
lity; and indeed to Englishmen, they always paid every at
tention. The best mode of travelling to Graaf Reynet, and which
the English generally employed in relieving or detaching
troops to this part of the interior, is by Avater ; coasting
from the Table Bay, along Cape L'Aguillas, to Algoa or
Plettenberg Bay, which last has a tolerably large harbour.
It is distant about three hundred and twenty miles from
Table Bay, lying in 34° & south latitude, and 23° 48' east
longitude. From this bay the journey is about one hundred
miles, by land, to Gaaf Reynet.
Plettenberg The winter season is the most proper for putting into Plet-
Bay. tenberg Bay, as it is much exposed to the south-east winds.
The Danish, French, and Portuguese vessels often put in here
on their passage to and from their settlements in Asia, giv
ing it the preference to Table Bay, from the cheapness of
provisions, the excellent Avater, and abundance of timber ;
but the Dutch discouraged their touching here, because the
government would lose the anchorage money and other cus
toms exacted from all ships putting into Table or False
Bay, besides the advantages which might be derived from
disposing of the Cape produce to those ships. A pier or
wharf Avas erected to accommodate small sloops and decked
boats, in loading or unloading ; and also a small barrack
Avith a range of store-houses, and a magazine for timber.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 203
A feAV poor houses, inhabited by farmers, lie close to the
shore. The neighbourhood has some plantations, and the
country round Plettenberg Bay is Avell Avooded. The Dutch
had a settlement here, and employed some of their people
in procuring timber and bringing it down from the adjacent
country, to be transported by Avater to Table Bay ; the
quantity Avas considerable, and indeed this was almost the
only place from whence they were supplied with timber fit
for ship-building. They maintained a small detachment here
to keep an eye over any ships that occasionally put into the
bay, nor Avould they in general alloAV them to be supplied
with any considerable quantity of provisions. The English
had a small force quartered here to watch the coast, and
keep up a communication with the district of Graaf Reynet.
Algoa Bay, further on, also affords anchorage to ships, but
is little frequented, except to procure timber, and a feAV
other articles which the country in its neighbourhood affords.
A small village, and barracks for a feAV men to guard the
coast, are erected here. When any force is sent from Cape
ToAvn to quell disturbances in the interior of the country,
beyond Graaf Reynet, they are sent first to Algoa Bay and
disembarked there. This is the last place on this side the
Cape, at which any of our ships touch. Sloops of Avar and
small cruizers range along Cape L'Aguillas, to protect our
trade from the French privateers, which issue from the
Mauritius, or the Isle of Madagascar, to cruize in those
latitudes in hopes of picking up English merchantmen, as
they steer along the bank of L'Aguillas.
d d 2

204 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Boors of the The country Avhich I haA^e noAV been describing is inha
bited by boors, avIio in their manners, habits, and disposi
tions seem a race entirely distinct from those of the more
civilised parts of the colony ; and one indeed sees Avith sur
prise the difference between the country Dutch, as they are
called, and those residing in Cape ToAvn and its vicinity.
Their Though the country abounds Avith Avhatever can make
wretchedcondition. life comfortable, yet the boor of the distant parts of the
colony seems not to have the power of enjoying those bless
ings which are within his reach, and absolutely in his pos
session. Oxen he has in abundance, but rarely uses any for
food ; milk and butter overfloAV Avith him, yet he seldom
tastes them ; wine, which is so cheap, so easily procured,
where almost every farm produces it, he rarely or never
Their houses drinks. His house is poor, mean, and incommodious ; al-
habits? though it might easily be rendered comfortable, even Avith
out his own bodily labour, as he has ahvays a sufficient
number of slaves for all his purposes. The rooms are dirty
and smoky in the extreme ; the walls covered with spiders,
and their Avebs, of an enormous size ; vermin and filth are
never removed from the floors till absolute necessity com
pels the indolent inhabitants to this exertion. The articles
of furniture are but few ; an old table, two or three bro
ken chairs, a feAV plates and kitchen utensils, Avith a couple
of large chests, commonly comprise the whole. Indifferent
bread and vegetables, steAved in sheep's fat, are their usual
fare ; and Avhen they eat meat, masses of mutton are served up
in grease ; this luxury they devour in great quantities, bolting

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 205
it down as some of our porters would for a wager. Smoak-
ing all the morning, and sleeping after dinner, consitute
the great luxury of the boor ; unwilling to Avork himself,
he lords it over his slaves and hired Hottentots. At a
middling age he is carried off by a dropsy, or some disease
contracted by indolence and eating to excess. When he
drinks, he constantly uses that poisonous hot spirit called
brandy-wine, or geneva, when he can procure it.
The Avoinen pass a lazy, listless, and inactive life. After women,
having regaled herself Avith a cup of coffee for breakfast,
the lady of the house sits at her ease in a corner till the
next meal-time, seeming absolutely fixed to an old clumsy
chair. Little of female delicacy is to be expected about
her ; a coarse loose dress throAvn about the shoulders leaves
many parts of the person altogether exposed. Of beauty
the females can rarely boast ; they generally go bare-footed,
and their feet are Avashed by the male as well as the fe
male slaves ; nor do they make any ceremony of having
this office performed before strangers. No amusement va
ries the scene Avith them, but -one day is like all the rest
of the year. They propagate children fast for the first ten
or tAvehe years after marriage ; but leave off breeding much
sooner than the females of most other countries. It is not
unusual to see eight or nine children all born in regular
gradation, Avithin a year of each other, adding to the do
mestic comforts by squalling and domineering over those of
the slaves ; for the first lesson they are taught is their su
periority over the unfortunate Africans.

206

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Husbandry.

Mode of
making but
ter.

The men are clumsy, stout made, morose, illiterate, and
truly ignorant ; feAV have indeed any idea Avhatever of edu
cation. Though seAreral Avere originally of French extrac
tion, particularly the vine-planters, these settlers have been
so mixed and intermarried, that little or nothing remains
among them of the manners or character of that nation.
It is particularly unfortunate for these colonists, that even
if they understood the value of instruction, it is almost im
possible, for Avant of teachers, to obtain it. Some villages
indeed have a schoolmaster, but this man is obliged to la
bour as Avell as to teach, and is kept chiefly for the pur
pose of keeping their trifling accounts, Avriting their letters
respecting their transactions at Cape Town, and singing
psalms of a Sunday ; for they affect to be strenuously reli
gious, and are very ostentatious of their devotion ; it is a
practice Avith them to be continually chaunting hymns and
psalms, and before meals they uniformly use a long prayer
or grace. Their children are bred up little better than
their slaves, the greatest part of their education is to learn
to shoot, crack whips, drive Avaggons, and perhaps barely
to read and write a little.
The planters about Swellendam, and the tract of country
toAvards Mussel Bay and False River, make the greatest
quantity of butter, from the number of cattle they graze
hereabouts ; some of them derive their Avhole income and
support from this line of farming. The milk from two or
three hundred head of cattle is collected together in huge
clumsy tubs, till they can churn a large quantity together;
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 207
this is done every three or four days in a round vessel
like a hogshead. The churn stall is so heavy that it re
quires the exertions of three or four stout male slaves, in
the same manner as Ave pump water out of a ship. They
do not take so much pains to press out all the butter from
the milk as we do ; so that their butter-milk is much more
heavy, greasy, and rank, than with us in Europe. They
hold it in but little estimation; it is chiefly given to the
dogs, and as often thrown away; sometimes they give it to
their slaves with carrots, turnips, and pumpkins bojled in
it. The English have expressed a good deal of surprize,
that they would not attend more to the rearing and fat
tening hogs with the milk from Avhich the butter is ex-
tracted, instead of throwing so much aAvay. " No," said
they, " pigs are not worth the trouble, as Ave have as many
horned cattle as AAre wish for, and at a very cheap rate."
Some of the farmers make from 1,500 to 3,000 pounds
weight of butter every year, and some even more, if they
have sufficient ground to feed the requisite number of cat
tle. They send it every six months to Cape Town, where
it is bought up by ships, principally Danes, Swedes, and
ships from India and the Spanish coast; it is generally
sold by the planters to the merchants at the Cape for about
4c?. or 6d. per lb. and afterwards by them for double that
price at least. Some of this butter is excellent and well-
tasted, particularly where the coavs are kept confined to
sweet pasture. I have frequently eaten excellent butter
both at the Cape Town and Avhile up the country, but

208 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
much oftener met Avith it strong, rank, and very ill-tasted.
Graziers. Those who graze cattle and make butter seldom enter into
any other kind of farming, though their land allows of pro
ducing corn, vines, and vegetables. Neighbour such a one
supplies him, and he therefore sees no occasion to have to6
many occupations on his hands at once. When the coavs
cease to give milk he sends them to the butchers at Cape
Town, together Avith the young bullocks and sheep to be
sold for various uses. When the fleets are expected, intel
ligence is sent from the Cape, if the butchers do not go
into the interior themselves ; and two or three thousand
head of cattle are collected and driven to Cape Toavii to
Sheep. be slaughtered. Some attend to sheep only, and a farmer
-will have often a stock of one or tAvo thousand. The sheep
are chiefly reared in the drier plains, and it is surprising
to see Iioav quickly they get into good order. During the
dry season for several months they are like skeletons, as
the country is parched up and quite bare of grass, except
a feAV acrid plants and shrubs, which barely serve for the
sheep to subsist on. But when the rainy season comes on,
and the land is drenched AArith nature's refreshing shoAvers,
and the heavy deAvs begin to prevail, then the grass springs
up almost instantaneously, and the sheep in a few days
get into flesh. When once fattened they are sent to Cape
Town before the dry Aveather destroys the vegetable crea
tion, and* sold in their prime state. The nature of the
country here is such that though it appears naked and bar
ren to the eye, there is ahvays some little Arerdure and
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 209
tufts of grass, and shrubs left in the clefts and chinks of
the rocks, which in the summer season serve to subsist the
sheep and oxen. It is remarked that the cattle, as well
as the milk and butter, taste differently in the two seasons,
being far sweeter in winter after the pastures have felt the(
influence of the refreshing showers. A variety of tender
shoots spring in abundance, of Avhich the sheep in particular
eat with avidity, whilst the oxen go amongst the marshes,
and along the rivers for reeds, coarse sedgy grass, and the
grosser kind of plants.
The karroo land, beyond the district of Swellendam, is
reckoned the best for sheep. A very extensive tract of Ioav
plain country lies in this part of the interior; the cattle
Avhidh the planters generally breed are considered as a much
smaller race than those belonging to the Hottentots farther
up the country. By what means they have degenerated I
could not accurately ascertain ; but I should suppose it to
be from the vast numbers which the Dutch farmers rear,
and keep in the same farm, without alloAving them to roam
about, or go from one place to another, like those of the
Hottentots according as they have devoured the pasturage.
This cannot be helped in some measure, as the wild beasts
would destroy numbers, were they not inclosed and secured
at night. The colonists turn out their cattle regularly into
the same pasturage, which being continually grazed on, and
kept poor, is consequently less able to affoid them proper
nourishment. The Dutch planters have never given their grounds a Remarks on
E E

210 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the Dutch sufficient time to recover by fallow or lying unemployed ;
husbandry. nor have they ever attended to the dressing or manuring
the soil, though, any quantity of dung might easily be col
lected from the number of cattle they rear, and laid on the
fields by their slaves or Hottentots. The labours of this
last class of men might be rendered infinitely more advan
tageous to them; few or none hire or employ Hottentots,
except those they have entrapped and made slaves of, or
forcibly taken from their own society and habitations. This
circumstance has been productive of many evils to the
colony, as I have already remarked in other parts of this
Avork. Their own indolent habits present still greater ob
stacles to improvement: a farmer once settled in a farm,
with a house ever so Avretched, Avill never leave it though
to his advantage, nor would he remove to a spot within
three or four miles, although possessing the most eminent
advantages in soil and produce ; and knowing that he might
easily obtain leave to change his abode from the govern
ment, who indeed seldom look after their settlements, pro
vided they received the small tax to the treasury at cer
tain times.
The avarice of these boors is also so great as often to
disappoint their OAvn objects : they do even not allow the
calves a sufficient quantity of milk to rear them healthy
and strong, so eager are they to make butter, and turn it
into ready money.
Their blind- Upon contemplating the various circumstances respecting
ness to their
own inte- the colonists, with the line of conduct which they have
rests.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 211
pursued since their first settlement here, one cannot Avith
out surprize observe that they have, during so long a re
sidence, continued to remain entirely ignorant of the vast
improvements of which their possessions are capable. The
dictates of common sense or common prudence, without any
external instruction, might surely have been sufficient to
point out a thousand advantages which force themselves
upon the attention of the observer ; and yet seem entirely
to have escaped the notice of the colonists, not only in the
interior, but even on the sea coasts. There is I believe
in no part of the world an instance to be found of Euro
pean adventurers so entirely destitute of enterprize, and so
completely indifferent to the art of bettering their situa
tion. A person, indeed, on observing the innumerable local
advantages which the colony possesses, and the infinite means
of becoming opulent and comfortable, which nature holds
out to the inhabitants, cannot but express a degree of re
gret that so fruitful a portion of the globe should be as
signed to those who are so little capable of estimating its
value. Such ideas naturally occur to a stranger on his ar^-
rival at the Cape of Good Hope ; yet it may be ques
tioned, whether perhaps even the greater part of the indo
lence, and apparent stupidity of the settlers, is not to be
charged to the depravity of the government under which
they have lived, and the mistaken policy which the mother
country of Holland has perpetually pursued with respect to
her colonies.
Private persons in Europe, against whose interest it mili-
e e 2

212 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
tated, or seemed to militate, Avere unwilling to see this co-
lony properly cultivated ; and those in high offices at the
Cape, and avIio had the direction of its government, either
did not understand its interests in a proper light, or did
not concern themselves with any thing beyond the increase
of their own private emolument. Various other reasons
rendered the efforts of the government at home for the
improvement of this colony very feeble. Their jealousy of
other European nations, who might regard it as a desire-
able object, made the Dutch consider it as a matter of pru
dence, that the Cape should be kept in poverty and insig
nificance ; and this policy was farther pursued with a view
to prevent the settlers from revolting, when getting too opu
lent and powerful for the impotent government Avhich ruled
both Holland and her settlements for many years. The want
of patriotic and energetic public characters has long been a
circumstance detrimental to the improvement of the Cape ;
and the prejudices of its oavii inhabitants have strongly mili
tated against its Avelfare. The English required but little in
sight to observe what injustice has been done to the settlement
for ages past in the management and government of it ;
and the planters and farmers cannot be considered as exempt
from a heavy share of the blame. It is only necessary to
know the colony, even so far as comes Avithin the reach of a
temporary visitor, to acknowledge the justice of what I have
here remarked, and tlie truth of the causes which I have
assigned. The evil may be said to have originated in the
councils of the republic at home, followed up by the ma-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 213
nagement of the colonial government, and confirmed by the
habits of the settlers. The manner in Avhich the Cape was
colonised, Avas indeed the original cause of many of its mis
fortunes ; neither able to rise against their tyrannical go
vernors, when injured and oppressed, nor to assist Avith any
effect against their external enemies, it was evident that
the colonists must instantly submit to the first enemy that
appeared against them ; for having entirely lost the affection
of the natives, they could neither assemble in time to form
an effectual resistance, nor could they leave their homes
Avithout the utmost risk of having them destroyed by the
enraged Hottentots. The colony, though possessed of so Natural ad-
many natural advantages, cannot hoAvever be considered at overboLd.
present but as unproductive, and feeble, and impotent.
Little advantage is derived from its coasts, Avith its dif
ferent harbours and bays, so bigoted are the people of the
interior to their habitual mode of travelling through sandy
and desert plains, and penetrating those huge ranges of
mountains which bound their settlements. The instances of
the inconvenience and ill-consequences arising from this con
duct are many. For example, timber and such heavy loads, Disadvan-
instead of being drawn to the sea-coast, perhaps only a few ^fusing™
miles off, and shipped on board small vessels to be sent to
Table or False Bay, are sent two, three, and four hun
dred miles by land. The price Avhich the owner gets for
a load of timber, perhaps from seventy to one hundred
rix-dollars, hardly pays him for his trouble and expense;
for, besides the time lost in felling and bringing it down,

water car
riage.

214 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the number of cattle employed in drawing it, and the loss
of some of them, with the Avear and tear of the.Avaggon it
self, form an expence so great that he has hardly a fourth
part of the profit. Although timber on the spot is a mere
chug, and of small value to the farmer, he must sell it pro-
portionably to all those losses and expences at Cape Town ;
so that the people then have to purchase it at a very con
siderable price, in consequence of which all kinds of Avood
Avork and building are excessively dear.
The planters have to re-purchase part of their own tim
ber in a manufactured state, at a dear rate ; such as wrought
timber for casks, waggons, and other such like articles.
The planter is obliged moreover to take them to and from
Cape Town, to have iron work, &c. put to them ; though
he might with a little activity haAre done all these things
at home. In the same manner butter, corn, Avine, and
other articles of husbandry, become incalculably dearer at
Cape Town by being conveyed in waggons instead of being-
put on board of large boats, sloops, or coasting Aressels at
the different harbours or mouths of riA'ers Avhich run into
the sea from many parts of the interior. The number of
days lost on the journey, and the loss arising from the far
mer being kept so long from overseeing his plantations, are
Pre?t &h v*d~- disadvantages not easily to be retrieved. If the transporting
riveurfr.°-m ah those articles by water were carried into effect, such a
establishing J '
an inter- market Avould be opened for the produce of the interior,
course be- k r
tween the that it is impossible but industry must be stimulated ;
differentparts l J
of the colony and those deserted and solitary harbours might be the
by sea. J "
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 215
means of enriching the colony beyond computation. Mar
ket toAvns would soon necessarily be erected in various
parts along the coast, and the number of inhabitants in
creased by the additional inducement held out to foreigners
and people from the mother country to settle here, and
add at once security and affluence to the colony.
Manufactories, of which they are in the greatest Avant,
might be established in the neighbourhood of the markets ;
and the wool, which is seldom or ever used, the skins be
ing thrown away or given to the slaves and Hottentots,
might] be made into coarse cloths, blankets, rugs, stock
ings ; and might comfortably clothe both the planters and
their slaves, at a very small expence. Hemp grows in
abundance in many places, and is reared both by the Dutch
and Hottentots, the latter of whom use it instead of to
bacco. This hemp, might be wrought into sail-cloth, can
vas bags, cordage, &c. and might thus open up a new
source of wealth hitherto little attended to. Flax also
might be introduced in many spots, and I have no doubt
might soon be brought to great perfection. A great part
of the ready money, which the people at the Cape are
forced to part with to foreigners, in the purchase of va
rious articles of clothing, and other necessaries, might thus
be retained in the colony by the establishment of internal
manufactures for its own produce ; and by this means a
great fund saved for internal improvement. The people at the
Cape get all their woollen, linen, and cotton goods from the
ships that touch at Table or False Bay ; and for these they

"216 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
are obliged to pay in silver or gold, which has been always
extremely scarce amongst them. On every article they buy
a tax is levied by government, besides the exorbitant price
charged by the owners of the vessels. I believe feAV or
none, at present, manufacture the avooI at the Cape ; at
least I have often enquired into the subject and, could never
learn that it has been done to any extent. It certainly is
of a coarser and much inferior quality to that of Europe ;
but might still be applied to the purposes I have aboA'e
suggested. It could undoubtedly afford a species of cloth
ing infinitely more comfortable than Avhat is avoiii at pre
sent, even by the better class of farmers. A Avealthy far
mer who is possessed of from one to two or three thousand
head of sheep, is most commonly seen to go almost naked ;
or if he has on something to screen him from the Aveather,
his breeches and doublet are made of leather barely tanned j
and equally disagreeable to the smell, as wretched to the
eye. The children and young lads are left almost naked,
except they can contrive to stitch up those half tanned
sheep skins into some kind of garment.
The farmers and their slaves are obliged to make their
OAvn shoes and clothes, which they do in a very unskilful
and bungling manner. They have likewise to make for
themselves all kinds of household furniture, chairs, tables,
beds, and chests ; which hardly deserve the name, they are
so clumsy and ill- formed. Any earthen-AArare they have is
also brought from Cape Town by the waggons, and the
greater part is usually broken in the carriage , so that they

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 2lf
are obliged to have equally clumsy Avooden A^essels for their
tables. The good effects of an extensive communication by Avater
carriage, between Cape Town and the distant parts of the
colony, would, I am convinced, soon prove to be much
greater than it is at present possible even to foresee. Those
•many long journies by land, which take up so much time
and labour, might be altogether avoided ; and such a num
ber of draught oxen, which are obliged to be kept solely
for that purpose, might then be dispensed Avith, that the
increased number of cattle for slaughter, and cows for the
purpose of making cheese and butter, which might be kept
in their stead, would be able to answer the demand of a
large influx of people into the colony, to carry on trade
and manufactures. To all the conversations I had with the
Dutch on this subject, and in reply to all my observations
on the very improvable nature of the colony, the constant
answer was, that I did not know the Cape ; it was but a
poor place, and if they brought artisans and people to
carry on the different manufactures, there would be nothing
to subsist them ; for there was little enough for those avIio
were already settled in it. To these prejudices the present
settlers are so firmly wedded, that it Avould be extremely
difficult to convince them of their error. A proof Iioav-
ever of what might be accomplished by the example of a
more industrious people, wras clearly shewn in the change
produced in the sentiments of many of the Dutch, Avhile our
countrymen held possession of the colony. They soon found
F F

218 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
out the Avay of bringing to market a greater quantity and
a greater variety of articles when they once found -a con*-
sumption for them.
With respect to that objection of the' Cape not being in
a state to produce subsistence for a greater body of people
than it contained, there is not a shadow of ground for
such an opinion ; in confirmation of which, the sudden ar
rival of such a number of English of every description, who
came to it in 1 795, Avhen it was considered to be in a poor
state, and yet both the former inhabitants and the addi
tional troops and settlers, Avere ahvays well supplied with
a sufficient quantity of provisions of every kind, at a cheap
and easy rate, speaks strongly in favour of Avhat I advance.
Nor am I so bold and confident as to speak entirely from
my oavii knowledge or experience. The best-informed peo
ple with whom I have conversed on the subject, and whose
prejudices Avere not engaged in the question, were uniformly
of opinion, that the Cape Avas capable of maintaining a
very great number more than its present population. —
While large tracts of country round Cape Town, Avhich
might easily be brought into cultivation, still lie Avaste, a
sufficiency of Avine, corn, and other articles, is reared not
only to supply the inhabitants, but the vessels which touch
here for refreshment ; and considerable quantities are often
sent to Batavia, and the Isle of France. The immense
tracts Avhich lie uncultivated along the eastern shores of the
colony present a yet more unbounded prospect of supply.
Were these once reduced to cultivation, corn, wine, and
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 219
a variety of other articles might be produced in such abun
dance, that not only Avould a sufficient supply be procured
for. any possible increase of inhabitants, but a large surplus
Avould be left after satisfying the demands for home con
sumption. Among many articles from Avhich opulence might
be derived, it may be observed that mulberry trees groAV
-here; and the plant Avhich feeds the silk Avorm, called
nopal, or prickly pear, grows spontaneously every Avhere.
By proper attention to this branch of trade, silk might
soon be rendered a valuable article of exportation. The
olive tree likeAvise groAvs Avith a little attention and its
produce might be turned to advantage.
Their system of manuring their fields, of threshing corn, Badmanage-ment in hus-
and using the straw haA^e ever been most disadvantageous, bandry.
They seldom, indeed, make use of the straw for any other
purpose but to thatch some of the offices or sheds for their
cattle and Avaggons ; it is usually left to rot on the ground.
Adhering to the custom of trampling the sheaf with horses
or oxen, instead of threshing with flails as with us, a great
deal of the corn is necessarily wasted by the cattle them
selves, and destroyed by being mixed with their clung ; be
sides leaving in the straw a considerable proportion of ears ;
and though this is made evident to their observation, by
the number of stalks and shoots of corn, which spring up
where the straw is left to rot, they will not adopt the Eu
ropean system. Lord Macartney, during his stay at the
Cape, endeavoured to introduce the English manner of
agriculture, but without effect. Whether from a pe.verse
ff2

220. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
bigotry to their oavii customs, or from that indolence
which characterizes the Dutch colonists here, they rejected'
eA^ery offer made them to improve their grounds, and make
them yield Avhat the bountiful hand of nature, by means of
a favourable soil and climate, had enabled them- to produce.
What seems more remarkable than even the conduct of the-
planters is, that their government prevented the navigation
of the different harbours, and the transporting by water
the fruits of their labour:, except indeed where the parti
cular interests of the persons in poAver Avere concerned. A
farmer makes as much preparation for a journey to the
Cape, as Ave Avould for a voyage to the East- Indies ; andi
it is in proportion equally troublesome and expensive.
Obstacles to rfhe m-eat difficulty of the roads, the different mountains-
the land-car- ° J
j-iagetoCape or kloofs they have to pass, render it necessary to have
Town. j r j
their Avaggons remarkably strong, and consequently heavy
and clumsy, so as to require two or three sets of cattle to
draw them, if at a considerable distance from the town. For
miles they are frequently obliged to have chains and ropes
fastened to the Avheels, often to all four, to preA^ent the
lieaAy waggon from running on the cattle in- going down
the declivities ; and often the Avheels are put into a kind
of wooden trough, as I mentioned above, shod Avith iron,-
and made fast to the body as well as the wheel, so that
the waggon might be said to be drawn on a sledge.
Another obstacle arises from the rivers Avhich they must
cross ; as at the ferries only small boats are stationed for
single passengers, who have to pull themselves OA7er by means,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 221
of ropes reeved through posts at each side. It sometimes
happens when the cattle have to swim over Avith the wag
gons, that they get unruly, and both drown themselves and
destroy their loading. Their journies, as I have said
above, are computed by hours: a journey of four hours
takes up a Avhole day, as an hour Avith them is computed.
on a plain, firm road, at seven miles ; and from 24 to 28
miles are the usual limits of a day's journey. The exact
distances from even the principal places of the country
were never ascertained by measurement under the Dutch
goA'ernment; and they are indebted to the English for having
determined the distances in English miles to several parts
of the colony. A distance of four hundred English miles is Hardships
reckoned, on a rough computation, about twenty days, con- it.
tinual towelling, and with the assistance of one or two spare
sets of cattle. However it oftener happens that it takes
thirty days to arrive at the Cape, even Avithout any mate
rial accident or obstacle. The length of such journies, it is
evident, must be extremely detrimental to the interests of
the colonists ; and as they are obliged even by law to re
pair on certain occasions to the Cape, it becomes often very
vexatious. By a law long in existence when a planter or fanner, eA^er so Peasants
/-i -i i i-ii obliged to
remote from the Cape, wishes to marry, he must bring the ob- marry at the
ject of his affections with him to toAvn, and be there joined in y '
wedlock by a particular licence from the Governor, in the
presence of the Fiscal, at the same time paying handsomely for
that privilege, and for leave to enter into the state of matrimony.

222 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in effects of The instances of the pernicious effects of this law have
tliis law. iii- i -ii-
been man}', and ought long since to have opened their eyes
to its impolicy ; for it often happens when the lovers and
their parents agree about the match, that the young woman
is intrusted to the care of her future husband, as probably
her parents cannot accompany her on such a distant jour
ney. She is in consequence left to his protection to take
to toAvn ; Avhen as a natural consequence arising from two
young people, Avith perhaps no other attendants but the
slaves, being so long together and almost looking on each
other as already united, the consummation frequently takes
place before they arrive at their destination ; and Avhen
that happens, the lover's passion being cooled by enjoyment,
he frequently refuses to marry the unfortunate young woman,
avIio must consequently return the best Avay she can to her
parents, Avhilst her deceiver only pays a certain fine for his
breach of faith. Luckily for the poor deluded female she
is not considered in much the worse light for such a mis
adventure, but often meets with another lover, Avho makes
no great account for the loss she has sustained : the colo
nists indeed are seldom over nice in those matters. The
original intention of this laAV Avas to prevent the colonists
connecting themselves Avith any women but those of their
oavh description.
Perhaps the chief cause of the great depravity of mind
found among the distant boors of the colony, is to be
ascribed to the cruelty and contempt Avith which they are
accustomed from their infancy to treat tlie Hottentots.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 223
Without the leave of government they, frequently make open
Avar on them, and their neighbours the Caffrees, without
provocation, and merely for the purpose of depriving them
of their cattle and lands, and making them slaves. Several
attempts had been made by tlie Dutch government at the
Cape to check this cruel and barbarous conduct, but Avith
out any material effect. The first great stop that Avas put
to the tyranny and inhumanity of the farmers and planters
Avas by Sir James Craig, who seeing in its full extent the
bad policy and barbarity of their conduct, sent positiATe
orders for them to desist, which howeArer they at first dis
regarded, till he sent a force up tbe country against them.
By that determinate and spirited conduct, howeA7er, Avhich
has ever distinguished his measures, he speedily brought
them to a proper sense of obedience, and a salutary aAve
of the English government. The humanity and upright
conduct of this officer, Avhilst in the command here, evinced
itself in many other instances ; and has made the English
name to be revered by the poor natives, and feared by
those proud and insolent boors, who cannot Avithout the aid
of terror be made to respect the rights of their felloAA'-
creatures.

224 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER XIII.
Character of the Planters near the Cape — Quarrels amongst
themselves respecting the Division of their Property — Uten
sils for Husbandry, Plowing, and Dressing the Land —
Improvements attempted by the English — Obstinacy of the
Dutch — No Roads through the Country — Great Inconvenience
arising from thence — No Boats to transport Waggons or
Passengers across tlie Rwei^s — Ignorance qf the People of
the Interior — Many English better acquainted with their
Country- -Remarks on the Cape and its Inhabitants, and
its Connections with the Mother Country.
1 HE planters, who live more in the neighbourhood of
Cape Town, present several features in their character very
different from the boors of the interior. More of artificial
life, and apparent civilization is to be found among them ;
yet in the essential qualities of real refinement, the diffe
rence betAveen the two is perhaps in fact very small. The
same unsocial and selfish character is conspicuous in both;
neither have the smallest idea of promoting the happiness
of any of tlie human race beyond the precincts of their
own family ; nay, the cares of each individual seem nearly
concentrated in his oavh person. A perpetual inclination to
quarrel, and a thirst of revenge equally distinguish the boor
of Graaf Reynet and of the Cape. The malevolent pas-
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 225
sions of the former are kept continually alive by the op
portunities which he has of exercising them with impunity
on the wretched Hottentots and Caffrees ; while the plan
ters of the Cape bear as deadly animosities towards each
Other, often on the most trivial grounds, a dispute about an
acre of land, a well, or the course of a stream, which might
easily be made to accommodate both. That quarrels should
originate on this ground seems the more strange, as their
possessions are in general larger than they can turn to any
good use. Every individual has indeed as much as he can
manage or cultivate, and the land is so cheap that a half
penny or penny an acre is an average price that many pay
to government. The greatest inconvenience arises from their Quarrels
r i- i i • mi n , amongst the
measurement ot distances by time. Ihe quantity of ground farmers near
assigned by the original law of government to each indivi- about thTi"
dual is the square contained by an hour's walk. A stake groun
or post is placed at each angle to mark the boundaries.
This undeterminate measure however breeds continual quar
rels among them ; for if a farmer once imagines that the
land-mark interferes with his rights, or has been any
wise removed, by a neighbour wishing to encroach on his
property, a suit immediately commences, and open war
ensues. To redress any grievances, and to adjust all dif
ferences of this kind, the government ordained a certain
person called a Fields Wagt Meester, or surveyor of land, to
decide them on the spot. On his being called on to judge
betAveen the parties, he that brings him must pay three
dollars ; but if either is not satisfied with his decision, an ap-
G G

226 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
peal lies to the landroest and council of the district, which
generally consists of a president and four members, each of
whom is to have three dollars for determining how much a
man is to walk in an hour. The price they in this man
ner pay for law is more than the rent of their whole tenure.
Private hos- It is curious to observe that, notwithstanding the animosity
pitality. and feuds Avhich subsist between neighbours, yet they sel
dom pass by the houses of each other without visiting. A
Dutch farmer hardly ever fails to stop at any dwelling he
comes to on a journey, though perhaps he is at open war
with the owner. Here he baits and rests the night, whe
ther he be a friend, stranger, or on bad terms Avith the
landlord, without Avaiting for invitation. He sits doAvn to
meals and takes his chance of a bed ; in the morning after
eating his breakfast, and drinking a quantity of raw spirits
Avith the host, and kissing him and the Avomen, he mounts
his horse or gets his Avaggon ready, and sets forward again
on his journey.
Even the rudest and most uncultivated amongst them ap
pear to be hospitable to visitors and strangers, and ready
to impart what they possess ; but this seems for the most
part to proceed from ostentation rather than from any real
generosity of heart; as they give so many proofs of being
naturally averse to society, or mixing with any one not
belonging to their OAvn family. Their prejudices in this
Their know- respect are indeed very strong. Their knoAvledge of the
ledge of the
country, and country is in the same manner very confined ; for they are
soil very
confined. perfectly satisfied if they merely knoAv the road from their

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 227
own house to Cape Town, or that part of the country in
the immediate vicinity of their own dwellings. Nor do
they seem to have ever taken any pains to understand the
soil, the nature of the ground they cultivate, nor the best
manner of making the most of it. They seldom or ever Manner of
° J tilling the
manure the ground, except a feAV scattered spots for bar- ground.
ley. The Dutch farmers never assist the soil by flooding,
being satisfied with the moisture it derives from, the water
in its neighbourhood. Their only labour is sowing the
seed ; leaving the rest to chance and the excellent climate.
Their ploughs, harrows, and utensils of husbandry are utensils of
husbandry.
clumsy, ill-formed, and clogged ; but they cannot be pre
vailed on to make any alteration in the system of their
agriculture. I have already noticed the attempts of Lord Macartney, improve-
a man of most benevolent and amiable manners, to better tempted by
their situation, by pointing out the means of improvement to e ngis
the colonists. He used every argument to stimulate the
planters to make the utmost of their grounds by the most
effectual and easy process ; and to prevail on them to
adopt the modes and implements made use of by the Eng
lish farmers in husbandry. But all his beneficial intentions
were rendered useless by the rooted dislike of the Dutch
to any innovation in their own customs and habits. Lord
Macartney Avhen he had been some time at the Cape, sent
for an experienced farmer to England, to teach the Dutch
the most useful and lucrative mode of Agriculture. A
man of the name of Ducket arrived, and brought with
g g 2

228 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
him all those implements of our husbandry which are most
convenient and useful. He Avent up to Stellenbosch, settled
there, and commenced cultivation in the same manner as
his countrymen. He turned up a quantity of ground, burned
the heath, weeds, and stumps, and spread the ashes over the
fields, mixed with slime taken from the marshes. The produce
of the crops he planted was very flattering and promising;
and in one day he brought more ground into order than
any Dutch farmer, Avith the same means and his utmost
Rendered exertions, could in three. Still they were not to be con-
the obstinacy vinced : " No English ways for the farmers at the Cape ;
ef the Dutch. 1
they do very well in their own country ; we don t want
them here ; Ave don't like the English, and Avon't, to please
them, alter our OAvn customs." With those sentiments they
refused aA'ailing themselves of Lord Macartney's kind and
praise-worthy endeavours to promote industry and opulence
among them. A few indeed were found to adopt farmer
Ducket's system ; but they soon left it off, and resumed
their old habits ; being ridiculed and discouraged by their
countrymen. This man passed but a very unpleasant time
amongst them ; for they not only avoided his society, but
missed no opportunity of annoying him in every way they
could, without subjecting themselves to the law or cogni
zance of the English Governor.
Sowing and The sowing months for corn are in May and June ; the
months. han^est in November and December. The corn is cut
doAvn writh long knives, and the grain trodden out by horses
or oxen, on circular floors or beds made of plaster and

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 229
coav dung, hardened in the open air. I have already ob
served on the great waste attending this mode.
It is remarkable how feAV improvements have been intro
duced into the colony, even Avhere most loudly called for, not
only as public benefits, but as private conveniences. Roads Roads much
J r neglected.
have scarcely ever been made ; and Avhere broken up, are
never repaired. No conveniences are provided for pas
sengers to halt and refresh themselves during the fati
gues of a journey. Hoav far are the Dutch colonists out
done, in this respect, by the simple natives of Asia, who,
purely from motives of religious zeal and public spirit,
have erected at convenient distances choultries and pagodas,
for all ranks of travellers to stop at and refresh themselves.
Throughout all India those buildings for temporary residence
and shelter are erected, and persons appointed to take care
of them, keep them clean, and assist the travellers. The Difficulty of
Cape greatly requires accommodations to be erected for
travellers. Not even a directing post is to be found, where
the country is in the wildest state, and the roads crossed and
intersected by ridges of sand, and by various paths through
the plains. A traveller here may wander about consider
ably out his way, if he has not Hottentots and guides to
attend him ; and the Dutch themselves, from their limited
local knoAvledge, often experience this inconvenience. Were
it not for the ranges of mountains, which the eye is enabled
to take as a point of direction, the difficulty of finding
out the Avay from one place to another would be A'ery
great. When they meet with a river, each gets over as he

230 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
can, no boats or rafts being attached to them to transport
passengers. The obstructions presented by rivers are often
extremly perplexing. A river not more than fifty yards in
breadth often takes up a whole day in crossing. They are
at times obliged to unload every thing out of the waggon,
and make a kind of raft of it, which takes up a great deal
of time. The horses and cattle swim over, a slave holding
them by the bridle.
Take the Dutch planters altogether, there never existed
a set of men so void of resources in overcoming difficul
ties. Even self-interest is not sufficient to stimulate them
to action, and to OATercome the indolence of their bodies
ignorance of and minds. Their ignorance is great; and education is
t e armers. eqUa]iy unknown among the boors of the Cape, and of Graaf
Reynet. No books, but a Bible and hymn book, are to
be found amongst them; no printing-press is established
here, except one at Cape Town, for stamping the cards
or paper used in making their paper-money or rix-dollars,
the only currency of the country. Government never in
deed took any pains to promote principles of public spirit
among them. FeAV men of dignity or learning came from
Europe to settle at the Cape ; nor have any measures ever
been taken for public instruction. Many of the farmers
have never seen Cape Town, nor travelled more than a few
miles from their own habitations. They seem not to be
acquainted in any degree, even with their native country.
Many officers in the British service assured me, that most
of the privates of the 8th light dragoons, had a far better

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 23 J
knowledge of the Cape than the Dutch themselves. This
fine regiment had been a great deal in the interior, and
had been much employed on active service against the
Caffrees and Hottentots at warfare with our government,
and in repressing the turbulent spirit of the Dutch peasants.
Their knowledge of the country was greatly extended by
continually passing and repassing to and from the different
military posts. This regiment, for their high state of dis
cipline and excellent conduct whilst at the Cape, deserve
the greatest praise. The uncommonly fine appearance of
the corps, with the perfection to which the horses Avere
brought, reflects the highest credit on Colonel Hall, as Avell
as their other officers. Nor do I mean to exclude the in
fantry regiments then stationed at the Cape, from their
share of praise for their steadiness and good behaviour.
Few or no complaints were ever preferred against them by
any individual of the Dutch inhabitants, either in Cape
Town or the interior. For a long period the Hottentot
Corps was commanded by Lieutenant John Campbell, of the
91st regiment, Avho, though a very young man, filled the
situation with much applause, and shewed himself a very in
telligent officer.
I have found it necessary to enter largely into the man- Remarks
ners and habits of the colonists who reside in the country, the Cape and
to account for the state in Avhich this settlement was found tants.
by us, and still continues. No part -of the world has had
its natural advantages so abused as the Cape of Good
Hope. The very minds and dispositions of the settlers in-

232 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
terfere with every plan of improvement and public utility.
I have endeavoured, without prejudice or partiality, to
paint their characters in their natural colours; and I ap
peal to those of my countrymen who are acquainted with
the Dutch colonists, from a long residence amongst them,
for the truth of the observations I have made on them.
The situation in which such a colony as the Cape of Good
Hope has so long been left, might indeed appear altogether
unaccountable, were we not to turn our eyes towards the
state of the mother country. At one time independent,
active, and enterprising, the Dutch extended their naviga
tion and colonies to the most distant quarter of the globe.
For many years, hoAvever, their decline has been rapidly
going fonvards ; a factious government at home, continually
actuated by a party spirit, was unable to attend to great and
extensive measures of public good ; and very soon became
sacrificed to the narrow views of interested individuals.
Degeneracy The picture which Holland presents to all the states of
ther country. Europe, should be an aAvful, and will, I hope, prove an
useful, lesson to them. The degeneracy of the Dutch colo
nists ought indeed to surprise us less, when Ave observe the
sad changes which have taken place in the spirit of the mo
ther country, situated as it is in the midst of Europe, and
of civilization. When Ave observe the present inhabitants
of Holland, Ave can scarcely believe them to be the same
people avIio formerly Avere so zealous in the cause of free
dom ; avIio asserted their independence by greater and more
vigorous efforts than could possibly be expected from the

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. £33
size or situation of their country. In spite of the vast ar
mies of Spain, and the ambition of France, they shook off
the yoke of the one, and resisting every attempt of the
other to enslaA^e them, exhibited to mankind for a century,
the most perfect picture of a flourishing commonwealth,
Avhose prosperity had arisen from public and individual he
roism. What is that people now become? Dead to all
sense of public interest, and to every generous sentiment of
the soul, the thirst of gain and individual aggrandisement
has extinguished from amongst them the spirit of patriotism,
the love of glory, the feelings of humanity, and even the
sense of shame. A total want of principle prevails in Hol
land. Every other sentiment is absorbed in the desire of
riches, which the stupid possessors want taste to convert to
any pleasurable use or real enjoyment; but which are su
perior in the eyes of a Dutchman to all the talents of the
mind, and all the virtues of the heart. Avarice is the
only passion, and wealth the only merit in the United
Provinces. In such a state, a sordid and selfish happiness
may be found, like that which the miser enjoys over his
hoard, or the glutton over his meal ; but the liberal arts
cannot thrive, and elegant manners are not to be expected
from a people under those existing circumstances. Indolent
and sluggish in their habits ; carrying on trade without that
spirit or activity found in other nations, their minds haAre
few resources ; sound policy and true patriotism have long
slept among them. The behaviour of Holland to her allies
has been particularly dishonourable, first forming alliances
Hii

234 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
for mutual protection, and then deserting them whenever
some appearance of immediate interest presented itself, or
more vigorous efforts Avere requisite to maintain their en
gagements. The conduct of Holland toAvards England in every war
has been notoriously shameful. England, who had been al
ways her support, by whose assistance she was enabled to
establish her liberty, her independence, and her religion ;
which otherwise must have been crushed by the power of
her oppressors. England, who kept her from sinking under
the ambition of the house of Bourbon, whose treasures and
blood had been so often expended in fighting her battles ; and
yet this ally, of unbounded and unwearied generosity, found
her forces in every engagement in the field, in conjunction
Avith the Dutch troops, left a sacrifice, or compelled to ex
tricate themselves by their oavii efforts and bravery from
the dangerous situations into which the Avant of courage and
conduct in tbe Dutch officers, and the laziness and cow
ardice of their soldiers had brought them. The plains of
Fontenoy will ahvays remain a memorial of the dishonour
of Holland, and the prodigious efforts of courage exerted
by the English troops, after being so shamefully deserted
and abandoned by the troops of their ally ; and, after see
ing by this means, a well-earned victory changed into a
most disastrous defeat. In our own times, the Hollanders
have yet exceeded their former degeneracy. Imbibing with
eagerness the principles of the French, and those false and
delusive shadows of liberty and equality, the little spark of
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 235
patriotism that remained in their breasts was speedily extin
guished. We need only observe their treatment of the
house of Orange, the descendants of their great William
their true patriot, Nassau, avIio so nobly exerted himself
for their independence, their religion, and their existence
as a nation. Shaking off their allegiance to a mild and
beneficent prince, who, on account of his own good qualities,
as Avell as the house he sprung from, should have been
honoured and protected, they forced him to leave his native
country, and apply to England for refuge and redress ;
England which has ever afforded an asylum to unfortunate
princes, and by her firm, wise, and prudent conduct has
long kept up the balance of poAver, and prevented the con
tinental powers from destroying each other. Englishmen!
behold, with pride, your nation, your government, and your
sovereign ; but for you anarchy and confusion would reign over
all the world. The very farthest part of the globe would
feel the baneful effects of French tyranny, French freedom,
and French oppression. When England, at the beginning of
the war, sent over troops to save the frontiers of Holland
from being invaded by the republicans, it was expected that
Holland Avould unanimously and vigorously join to prevent
the French from conquering their country ; a country so
naturally strong, so easily defended, from its numerous for
tified toAvns, its canals, dykes, and sluices ; and the readi
ness Avith Avhich its forces could be collected, that it seem
ed next to impossible for the armies of the republic to
penetrate into it, if in any degree opposed with vigour.
h h 2

236 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
At the supplication of the Dutch themselves, England sent
them a large body of her troops to asssist them in repell
ing the republican forces ; but, to the astouishment of all
Europe, no sooner had the English army experienced a
reArerse, than the treacherous Hollanders conspired to in
troduce the French into their country, and forced the
Stadtholder and the few men of any patriotism, to fly to
England for refuge ; while they perfidiously made terms
with the French, without the concurrence or knowledge of
their allies, whose troops were left to shift for themselves,
and make their way in the best manner they could out of
the country. In some places, at Breda, Bois le Due, and
Helvoetsluys, they actually gave up the English, their real
friends, to their specious friends the French army ; and
during all the retreat of the English troops, they were used
by the Dutch more like enemies than friends. How often
did they refuse us refreshments to the weary and tired sol
dier after his march ; and even add insult to their treachery
and inhumanity. At a much later period, when harassed
and- goaded by their neAv friends and allies the French,
they again applied to England, promising to stand forth
and assist us with all their force and vigour to recover
their freedom, and drive their tyrants out of Holland.
England, with her usual generosity, pitied their situation,
and sent a large army of English and Russians, in the hope
that the Dutch might yet recover their spirit, and unite in a
cause where they alone Avere the oppressed and the victims.
When our troops lauded at the Helder, however, instead
7

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 237
of being animated at the appearance of such a body of
veteran soldiers sent for their support, and when their pa
triotism and the natural wish of freeing their country should
have stimulated them to stand foremost in the attempt,
and have induced all ranks to rise, they slunk away and
held back, without affording their deliverers the least as
sistance. Incapable of being aroused to any active effort
of patriotism, they continued unconcerned spectators, and
left to the English forces, what every nation should be
most eager and anxious to undertake for itself, the task
of extricating itself from foreign invaders and oppressors.
They again treated us as enemies and the French as friends ;
we received nothing but baseness, and dissimulation at their
hands. Britons, if they could be capable of enjoying such
a poor revenge, have now an opportunity of seeing their
treachery returned ten-fold on their faithless allies, by the
people whom they called in and embraced as the defenders
of their freedom. Their new friends, the natural n emies of
their religion and country, noAV rule them -with a rod of
iron, giving them a severe and justly merited sample of
French liberty and equality. Loaded with taxes and requi
sitions, robbed of their darling wealth, and, to complete
all, made tools of a tyrant, and forced to obey his caprices,
under the most absurd pretences, the Dutch are now, in
every sense of the word, a wretched and impoverished
people. Let other nations take example by the fate of
Holland, unpitied, as she is, by all, from the inglorious

238 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
conduct of her people, and equally contemned by the French
nation, to Avhom she has sacrificed herself.
Policy of the I hope I shall be pardoned for this digression : some ob-
Dutch with , l °
regard to the servations on the state of the Dutch at home was neces-
CapeofGoodHope. sary to account for the miserable neglect of their colonies ;
and to reflect on the conduct of that people for some time
past Avithout indignation is impossible, at least for a British
soldier. I shall iioav proceed to give a view of the policy
pursued by the Dutch in respect to the Cape of Good
Hope from their first settlement there.
The establishment Avhich the Dutch East-India Company
had made on either side the Cape of Good Hope, though
originally confined to a small tract of country, little more
than the isthmus or peninsula, where the tAvo great harbours
of Table and False Bay are situated, has by degrees been
so considerably increased that it extends by computation
upAvards of five- hundred miles from east to west, and nearly
Original pur- three hundred from north to south. For once in the gain-
the natives. nlg possession • of territory the Dutch seemed to regulate
their conduct by the laAVS of justice ; for the territory of
the Cape Avas'at first acquired, by fair purchase Avithout
fraud or ¦ oppression ; at the same time however it may be
observed that this solitary instance, in the united states,
of equity prevailing over avarice, is to be attributed more
to the virtue of an individual than to the community at,
large. Mr. Van Biebeck,.a surgeon of one of their ships,
an intelligent and enlightened man, observing the excellent

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 239
harbours the south extremity of the Cape contained, and
the mild and peaceable disposition of the natives, having
also a very extensive power Avhich accidentally fell into his
hands, and being actuated by a liberal and patriotic spirit,
he determined to render it useful to his country, and pur
chase from the natives a portion of land contiguous to those
harbours, and by toys and a feAV trifling articles of com
merce, to the amount of four thousand pounds, he quietly
got an unlimited possession of this valuable acquisition. The
Dutch seeing the excellence of this bargain, and the happy
prospects it afforded, for once did violence to their nature,
and acted justly, confirming Mr. Van Riebeck's purchase,
and granting him full poAvers to traffic with the natives, and
colonize the Cape. The Hottentots, who were the aborigi
nal inhabitants of the country, being of a mild, peaceable,
and tractable disposition, were well satisfied with their new
guests, and by degrees easily reduced to servitude, and made
useful to the Dutch in the management of their cattle, and
the cultivation of the soil. The farther to encourage those Their first
conduct
people to remain amongst them for these necessary purposes, towards
and to prevent their harbouring any idea of the Dutch Avish-
ing to transport them out of their own country, or to force
them into servitude against their inclination, a laAV was passed
in the colony that the Hottentots were never to be made
slaves, but declared to be a free people capable of enjoying
certain privileges. This law has never been repealed, though
a great deal of its advantages have been long done aAvay a»
I have shewn in a former chapter.

240 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
The Cape, when the Dutch first arrived, was capable of
being made by the simplest means a populous and commer
cial colony. Its temperate climate was iu every respect fa
vourable to health, longevity, and au increase of population ;
its soil, though not apparently rich, was from the genial
temperature of the air, alternate dews, and sun shine, so
kindly vegetative that it nourished with little culture, and
almost spontaneously, what the husbandman might chuse to
plant. The first appearance of the country was indeed un
promising ; and the richer spots seemed almost lost amidst
the surrounding mountains and sandy desarts : yet the fertility
of the intervening vallies, and the uncommonly prolific na
ture of the climate, must soon have shewn the colonists
that there was nothing desirable in any other quarter of the
Avorld which could not be produced here.
Such was the state of this country when the Dutch first
colonized the Cape. The Dutch however seem from the
first not to have understood the advantages possessed by the
different parts of the colony. The eastern side of the promon
tory, and the interior parts, are by far the richest and capable
of the highest cultivation ; the more southern parts, and the
country round Cape ToAvn, certainly labour under physical
obstructions, Avhich must ever prevent them from attaining
such a general state of cultivation. The unpromising nature
of the soil in the south-Avest parts is however abundantly
compensated by the harbours of False and Table Bay, which
for the purposes of commerce are large and safe, and so formed
and sheltered as to yield alternately security against the tAvo

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 241
preA'ailing winds peculiar to this latitude. There are many-
other bays along the coast, some of them sufficiently large
and spacious, but the policy of the Dutch East-India Com
pany, its chartered soA'ereign, drew a veil over the true
knoAvledge of them, and the advantages to be derived from
their use. The same short-sighted policy prohibited the more
distant colonists from transporting on any pretext their pro
duce or effects to Cape Town, and Simon's Town, coastwise
by water.
Though it appeared to other European nations not well Polic>" adoPt-
° rL r ed by the
acquainted with the Cape, that it was in a flourishing and Dutch.
1 ° Narrow and
prosperous situation, yet it Avas not so by any means. Long confined.
labouring under the heavy hand of their East-India Com
pany, avIio Avith a narrow, selfish, and short-sighted policy,
had been always studious to discourage population, to crush
the settlers, to prevent their extension, and to counteract as
much as possible the natural operation of a genial soil to
enrieh its possessors, it had never attained in any quarter
the improvements of which it Avas capable. Had the East-
India Company encouraged their countrymen at the Cape
by inviting them to avail themselves to the utmost of its
extent and fertility, it would have been in a condition to
furnish, their settlements in Asia with many of the necessa
ries and luxuries of life, as well as supplies of men for se
curing and strengthening their possessions in the East. The
recruits sent out from Holland to Asia, as Avell as many of
the late and present race of colonists at the Cape, have
long been for the most part composed of low and profligate
I i

242 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
wretches, chiefly kidnapped from the sea-port towns and
country in their vicinity, and unhappy emigrants from the
different German states, who fled from poverty and the des
potism of their princes. At Batavia many of those unfor
tunate people find a grave, and an end to their misery and
slavery.
in effects of From Avhat the colonists at the Cape of Good Hope have
done under all those obvious disadvantages, and discourage
ments they met with from a jealous government, I must do
them the justice to believe much more might have been ef
fected had they been subject to a moderate and popular
government, animated by the free spirit of a true republic ;
Avith enterprise and vigour what might not be effected by Dutch
perseverance ? the objects of monopolists are ever opposite
to the general prosperity of the nation to which they belong ;
their plans are not founded on the comprehensive views of
sound policy or justice, but on confined and selfish principles,
Avholly incompatible with the public Avelfare. The Dutch
East-India Company adopted the plan of an establishment
on the southern point of Africa, for no other purpose than
as a place of refreshment for their shipping employed in
their Asiatic commerce. Under this idea they did not wish
to extend the colony beyond the narrow limits of the southern
shores and harbours ; a policy Avorthy of praise if it had pro
ceeded from any sentiments of justice and moderation towards
the natives.
The improvement of the territory Avas not their object ;
their policy indeed discouraged any effort towards this object,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 243
for were the Dutch dominions at the Cape to be improved
and peopled to that degree of which they are susceptible,
their East-India Company Avell knew they could not long
retain its sovereignty, but that when arrived to so great a
pitch of consequence, from its population and extent, the
government of the mother country would assert its claim to
the chief direction. Whilst only considered as a possession
merely retained from commercial views, it might be alloAved
to remain in the hands of a chartered company of mer
chants ; but when brought into consequence in the political
scale, they were well assured it Avould be an object of too
much consequence not to belong to the government at large.
From those motives the Dutch East-India Company dis
couraged the improvement of the Cape, and checked the
many natural advantages it enjoyed. They restrained the
discovery and Avorking of any mines ; for the bowels of
this country, for reasons I have already given, are supposed
to contain copper and iron ore ; and indeed the appearance
of the soil clearly indicates in many places the possession
of those useful metals. The wines of the Cape, if encou
raged and improved, might be equal to those of Europe.
Aloes, sucotra, myrtle- Avax, salt, paints, indigo, castor oil,
cotton, coffee, sugar, rum, tobacco, ivory, whale oil, iron,
and copper, ostrich feathers, hides, butter, and many other
articles, might afford the means to carry on an extensive
trade ; as well to the coast of Africa as to India, America,
and Europe. The colony might thus soon become a manu-
i i 2

244 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
facturing state ; but all advantages of this sort were over
looked by the short-sighted policy of the Dutch.
The goA^ernment of Holland, for a long period, never
kept a vigilant eye over their East-India Company; and
the people vested with power, sent out here, were either
incapable or indifferent towards its improvement. With a
strong bias for trade themselves, they Avere mostly unfit for
conducting- and governing- a state on the true principles of
public spirit or sound policy. The East-India Company,
besides their fears of having the country wrested from them
by the jealousy of their government at home, were afraid
to improve or extend their territories, lest they should be
unable to defend a rich and extensiA^e range of coast from
invasion. Their greatest security they believed to consist
in not alloAving.it to be an object of temptation to their
neighbours. Actuated by the same motives throughout
their Avhole colonial policy, they held back the improve
ments of their Asiatic settlements, particularly the island of
Ceylon ; as I have sheAvn in my account of that island.
Yet notwithstanding their despotic government, so jealous
of improvement, wholly restraining manufactures,' commerce,
and -even many branches of agriculture, the southern parts
of the Cape have in many places been cultivated and im
proved, the population has increased considerably, and
would have done so much more, but that the hopes of
amassing speedy Avealth in their Asiatic settlements induced
numbers to quit this salubrious climate for those regions of

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 245
intolerable heat and rapid mortality. The Cape in an
other view, Avas an important object to the company, by
the uncommon charges and exactions made on all shipping
Avho touched at her ports, and by their many extortions on
the inhabitants. Those entrusted with the government en
riched themsehes considerably, and supported their usurpa
tions under the most specious pretences of their being
highly necessary for the Avelfare of the settlement ; and al
though it was for a long time notoriously maintained out
of the pockets of the Dutch settlers, and by the exactions
from ships of all nations, they contrived fairly to blind
the eyes of the directors, the proprietors, and the credu
lous public, with false accounts and vague ideas of loss and
gain. For some time back the dominion of the Cape has by
degrees slipped from the hands of their East-India Com
pany, who barely retained the shadoAV of any pOAver or in
fluence there. In reality the settlement had become subject
to the Dutch government of Batavia, which last ranked as
the first in consequence and authority of all their Asiatic
settlements. From the period that their East-India Com
pany's influence and power were lost, and the Cape had
come under the cognizance of the Governor of Batavia, it
of course became part of the possessions of the United
States of Holland; and the population and improvement
soon after considerably increased. It must ever be regret- The im-
ted that this mild and excellent climate has been so long nature of the
degraded and with-held . from; the enjoyment of its natural ape'

246 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
advantages. It Avill thence take some time to render it a great
and valuable acquisition, even if it should again be re
covered to this country. In the hands of the British go-
A'ernment, Avliose mild and beneficent conduct has always
been the envy and praise of all nations, it would, however,
shew itself in a different light. It would acquire a conse
quence and Aveight in itself hitherto but superficially at
tended or looked to ; and add a powerful security to our
East-India possessions, noAV so valuable and extensive. In
some little period of time, neAv resources arising from the
commodities it produces within itself, for carrying on a
lucrative trade with different parts of the Avorld, would soon
be discovered and turned to advantage by industrious and
enterprising British settlers, who would, no doubt, seek
this colony in pursuit of opulence. The original inhabit
ants of the more remote territory, now possessed by the
Dutch boors and planters, might be easily brought by gen
tle means to habits of industry. Of a peaceable and mild
disposition, extremely averse to warfare, and peculiarly at
tached to the English since our residence in their country,
by wholesome laws and salutary regulations they would enter
Avarmly into our interests, and shake off that laziness to
Avhich they have become addicted from the extreme state of
degradation to Avhich they haA^e been reduced. AA^erse, as
Ave are, by our education and habits, to slavery, perhaps
more so than any race of people upon earth, it should be
totally and immediately abolished by us in this colony, if it
ever come into our. possession. In a great measure the

THE CAPE OF GO ODHOPE. 247
want of energy, and the natural indolence of the Dutch
at the Cape, are to be attributed to the great number of
slaves amongst them. A farmer seldom labours himself,
but leaves all to his slaves. An enlightened and intelligent slavery not
so necessary
mind acquainted with this part of the world, will readily as in the
^ r , West- Indies.
see the bad consequences which have arisen from this po
licy, and agree with me in the remarks I have made on
this subject. A wide difference exists betAveen this country
and the East and West Indies ; in the latter, many argu
ments may be adduced to shew the necessity of employing
slaves ; at the Cape they might be dispensed Avith. If the
Dutch depended less on the handy-craft of their slaves,
they would occupy themselves much more in the mechani
cal trades. Most families at the Cape employ their slaves
in making their wearing apparel ; they manufacture their
oavii leather, make shoes and clothes of all kinds, by the
hands of their slaves. The dresses of the ladies also, and the
various articles of household furniture are all made in the
same manner ; so that the colonists merely import from
Europe and Asia the raAV materials, and then transfer them,
without any labour on their OAvn parts, to be manufactured
by their slaves. They have but few mechanics and trades
men amongst themselves, nor did they require them, be
cause such services were performed by their servants ; he
avIio Avaits on them at table is equally dexterous at the
needle, the aAvl, the axe, the plane, trowel, and brush.
From principles of economy, every individual Dutchman
employed his slave at some trade ; and besides obtained
9

248 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
mone}' by hiring him out, or selling the produce of his la
bour. Every thing indeed is produced in this climate with
50 little labour to man, that slavery could never have crept
into this angle of Africa, if a spirit of industry had per
vaded the minds of the original colonists. A temperate
climate, fertile soil, a mild and peaceable race of nath'es,
Avere advantages that feAV infant colonies possessed. These
happy circumstances still exist, and may yet be turned to
Good effects good account. To encourage the Hottentots in useful la-
to be expect- . . . .
ed from a hour, by giving them an interest in their servitude, to
vemment at make them experience the comforts of civilized life, to
feel a A^alue for and a place in society, Avhich the miserable
policy of the Dutch denied them, Avould be the sure means
of entirely removing the necessity of slavery. While the
English held the colony, feAV were imported, and those few
by special permission under peculiar circumstances.
Our government abolished, as much as it was in their
poA-ver to abolish, the baleful traffic of slavery. By the capi
tulation entered into on getting possession of the Cape, we
could not deprive the Dutch of those slaves already in their
possession, as private property of all sorts Avas secured to
them ; but we suffered no more to be added to the num
ber of this unhappy class of people. Our detestation of
slavery and the cruelty practised against the poor Avretches,
did not escape the penetration of the Hottentots. Tbttugh
on our first coming they were led to belieA^e us a race
of cannibals, Avho avouIcI destroy them Avithout mercy, by
the invidious arts of the Dutch, yet these people soon

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 249
formed a faA'ourable impression of the humane and liberal
spirit of the neAV poAver they had fallen under, and many
entered into our service a short time after its capture. A
little more knowledge and acquaintance with the character
and conduct of Englishmen soon taught them to be dis
gusted Avith their late masters, the Dutch. And on finally
giving up the Cape by the late treaty of peace, the Hot
tentots and slaves beheld our departure with extreme sor
row. I have been told by an officer, who left it on the
evacuation, that the Hottentots asked the English for am
munition and arms to drive the Dutch out. " We will
give you," said they, " the country if you stay ; it is ours
and ours only ; the Dutch have no right to any but a
small territory round False and Table Bay ; that we will
take from them and give to you, if you only supply us
with arms and ammunition." Many of the Hottentot sol
diers cried, and shewed every symptom of the deepest re
gret on parting with us. Should the Cape be attacked
again by the English, the Dutch will find them unsteady
allies ; and in all probability will receive but little assist
ance from them in its defence.
The mode of policy adopted by the Dutch, to inspire
the natives of their settlements with fear and hatred of
other nations, was equally base and pusillanimous. The
Malays inhabiting their Asiatic settlements were led to
believe the English were the most cruel and oppressive
of all the European race ; and that any connexion Avith
that people would overwhelm them in the most miser -
Kk

250 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
able slavery. Previous to the English arriving at Ceylon,
the Dutch by mean and coAvardly insinuations, unworthy
of a civilized nation, worked up their passions and minds
against us to a state of desperation, and led them to attempt
those coAvardly acts of assassination for which the Malays
are so much and so justly abhorred. How dearly have
the Dutch iioav paid for their conduct ! All confidence be
tween a Dutchman and a Malay is lost, wherever the Eng
lish have appeared. The most barbarous nations will dis
criminate between the conduct and dispositions of the
Dutch and English. A little knowledge of our character
soon brought them to revere us as a nation humane and
generous. All those avIio had been in the military service
of the Dutch, voluntarily offered to enter ours ; and when
they came to reflect on the cowardice of the different gar
risons in the island of Ceylon, who sent them out to at
tack an enemy without officers, and without troops to sup
port them, they then began to see, in its true light, the
manner in Avhich the Dutch had acted towards them.
Nearly four years on service with the Malay regiment, I
had every opportunity of noticing their conduct. To our
government they were ever obedient and steady. Fully
convinced that they were led astray by false reports of
our inhumanity by their late masters, they have changed
the objects of their hatred and detestation, and sincerely
repented of their former acts of assassination and warfare
against us.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 25.1

CHAPTER XIV.
The White Inhabitants of Cape Town — Difference between
them and those of the Mother Country — What People first
colonized it — Manner in ivhich they conduct themselves
towards the Females — Their Women — Manner in which both
Men and Women spend their Time — Occupations and Habits
of Life — All Ranks keep Lodging Houses — Custom at Meals,
and Food produced at their Tables — Coffee-Houses and
Taverns first introduced by the English — Mode of Living.
AS 1 have described the most prominent features in the The inhabit-
character of the Dutch colonists, Avho inhabit the country Town.
parts of the Cape of Good Hope, I shall devote the pre
sent chapter to a more particular account of the manners
and customs of the inhabitants of Cape Town. To a stranger
these appear very singular ; for there is no European nation
to Avhich they bear an exact resemblance, and yet some traits
of most European nations are found amongst them. This is
partly owing to the settlers here being descended from ad
venturers from almost every quarter of the Avorld ; and
partly to the great fondness of the inhabitants for copying
the fashions of various nations as they are transiently pre
sented to them by the passengers Avho occasionally touch at
the Cape. The dresses of the young women in particular
k k 2

252 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
form a motley collection of French, English, and Dutch
fashions ; but imitated Avith so little elegance or neatness,
that the original pattern can scarcely be guessed at.
Degenerated. Though most of the colonists are descended from the different
Protestant German States, and those emigrants from France,
avIio fled from persecution after the repeal of the edict of
Nantz, yet feAV even retain the least traits of the habits or
customs of their ancestors, even the descendents of the Dutch
themselves, except in their fondness for smoking and dram
drinking. To Englishmen they appear an unsocial, inhospitable,
and boorish race, and their actions entirely guided by mer
cenary and interested motives. Where eArery thing in human
form seems to be moved by mechanism, so much uninte
resting sameness and tedious uniformity, could not but appear
stupid to our countrymen; and their opinion of the inhabit
ants Avas still lowered when they considered that this dull
and uncomfortable life was led in a country Avhere the soil
is capable of yielding most of the necessaries, and many of
the luxuries which mankind require, Avhere the climate and
air favour not only a healthy existence, but even a parti
cular cheerfulness of temper. During most part of the year
the inhabitants are blessed with an unclouded sky, a salu
brious climate, that enables them to indulge in any species
of exercise, which tends to strengthen the body and invi-
Wantof na- gorate the mind. Yet with all these advantages the colo-
tion. a nists seem dead to the best affections of man ; they marry
without feeling any of that lively sympathy which is seen
9

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 253
in all other countries ; they enter into wedlock only because
it is the custom of the world, and necessary to their exist
ence by giving birth to another generation; but are utter
strangers to love or that pure affection Avhich arises solely
from the heart. They unite as a species of traffic, in the
hopes of gain ; this is equally the case with the man and
woman ; and the friends of both endeavour to drive the best
bargain for their OAvn relations. From the want of an ex
tended intercourse Avith strangers or people out of their own
colony, they are all allied in some degree of relationship;
and yet a sincere friendship, a strong and ardent affection,
or an union of interests seldom exists among them. It is
not to be expected that we should here meet Avith those
endearing attachments, those sincere and tender affections,
and that friendship and esteem which unite individuals of
other nations in the bands of wedlock ; or promote between
man and man that social intercourse Avhich is to be consi
dered as one great portion of happiness in this life. A
Dutchman regards his Avife and family in a light different
from most other nations ; he looks on his spouse as fit only
for one particular station through life, namely, to take care
of his house, his children, and slaves. He considers her as
a creature infinitely beneath him, and scarcely ever deigns
to notice her but at the times of food and rest ; whilst she,
feeling herself so much inferior, is contented to remain in
that humble and insignificant state. The ignorance of the Their
females, which is considerably greater than that of the men,
must naturally arise from their education, and the inferiority

254

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

in Avhich they are constantly held. Satisfied Avith a few
formal A'isits now and then to their acquaintance of their
oavh sex, they have scarcely a wish for any further recrea
tion. So much does their insipid apathy and dulness pre
vail, even in their parties which meet for amusement, that
they themselves often become disgusted, and feel a vacuity
and a want of genuine sociality, Avhich they do not know
how to remedy. That sprightly conversation and wit that
freedom of intercourse carried on with so much modesty and
decorum amongst all ranks of our countrywomen, are Avith
them unknown ; if any of them should attempt to imitate
such manners, they are immediately suspected and traduced
by their envious acquaintances, who take care to instil a
jealousy into the husband, or sting the father, the brother,
or the loArer, with their malicious reports.
Extreme I have already noticed the fondness of the men for smok-
fondness of
the men for ing tobacco ; their whole soul seems indeed entirely giA7en up
smoking tobacco. to that habit. We all knoAv Iioav much it is the custom in
Holland ; but here it is carried to a still greater excess. The
men rise early in the morning, and make their appearance
in a loose robe and night-cap before their doors ; then Avalk
or sit in the porch for an hour or tAvo with a pipe in their
mouths, and a slaAre by their side holding a glass and a small
decanter of gin, from which the master every now and then
takes his soupkie or glass. Let an Englishman rise ever so
early, he will see Mynheer sitting in his stoop or porch,
or parading the front of his house in the manner I have
described. There are many who get up two or three times
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 255
in the night to enjoy a pipe; and so much are they ac
customed to this luxury that they cannot on any account
dispense with it. About eight they dress, first smoking Way of
their quantum ; after which they sit down to breakfast, which their days.
generally consists of a quantity of gross food besides coffee,
tea, and fruit of all kinds. They then smoke another pipe,
and go about their mercantile concerns till about one o'clock,
Avhen dinner commences, Avhich also consists of a quantity of
gross and oily dressed meat, with fruit, &c. as a dessert*
A more particular description of their tables I shall give
presently. When they have regaled themselves another hour
with their darling pipe, they lie doAvn to their nap, which
continues till evening; they then rise, and perhaps take a
walk or pay formal visits, but are always sure to smoke
wherever they go. Coffee and gin succeed, accompanied
with their pipe till about nine, Avhen supper is introduced,
and when that is finished, after another hour's fumigating,
they retire to bed, gorged with heavy food, and perhaps
destined to spend the remainder of the night Avith all the
horrors arising from indigestion. A continual round of this
mode of passing their time sums up the existence of the
Dutch colonists of Cape Town, exhibiting a most lamenta
ble picture of laziness and indolent stupidity. As their edu
cation is very limited, refined and polished manners, or any ex
tent of knoAvledge, are not to be expected amongst them. The
publie schools at the Cape are few ; and education never goes
beyond a little writing and accompts, merely to qualify them

256 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
for trade, and to enable them to hold places in the offices
of the East-India Company.
Mercantile Every man at the Cape is a merchant in some way or
habits uni
versal, other; the Avhole study of the inhabitants being to make
money, and they contrive to do so in numberless Avays.
Every Dutch gentleman, no matter whether he be a Count,
Baron, Colonel, Captain, Mynheer, or what rank you please,
looks to trade as the main chance ; though there are some
of those titled merchants, and trading officers, avIio from
pride endeavour in some measure to conceal their OAvn im
mediate connection with mercantile concerns, and carry on
business by means of their slaves, and the inferior order of
Ail ranks people. The Governor excepted, every inhabitant both civil
andPiod°gTng- and military, keeps a lodging-house for the entertainment
of passengers touching at the Cape. Colonel Dalrymple,
the commanding officer of the regiment to which I belonged,
Avas accommodated with board and lodging on his arrival
at the house of a Colonel in the Dutch service. This they
look upon in a different light from what Ave would in Europe ;
for how much Ave Avould think our service degraded if our
officers keep board and lodging-houses, a genteel term for a
tavern ? However they plead the necessity of doing so, their
pay being so very small, that they must have recourse to some
other method of getting money to support themselves and
their families ; and their government have never made any ob
jection or ever noticed this custom in their officers. This at
first surprised us a good deal, as being so contrary to what

houses.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 257
we were used to in Europe. All the English officers on
their first arrival Avent to board and lodge at the different
Dutch houses, eat at their tables, and in every respect were
considered as belonging to the family. This of course gave
Our countrymen an opportunity of being soon perfectly ac
quainted Avith their domestic concerns, their manners and
most private dispositions.
Under the Dutch government, and long after the English No taverns
or inns at
arrived, tliere were no inns, hotels, or taverns at Cape Town ; Cape Town
but no embarrassment or inconvenience arose to strangers
from this circumstance, as every house was open to receive
them Avithout ceremony, or requiring any previous introduc
tion. It was sufficient that you belonged to a ship going
to or coming from India ; in the latter case you were sure
to be received with the greatest avidity under the suppo
sition that you were a nabob, loaded with treasures from
the East, Avho would pay liberally either in money or pre
sents for their hospitality. On the first introduction of the
English officers at the Cape into the Dutch houses, after its
capture, they were for a considerable time obliged to conform
to their hours, customs, and manner of living, Avhich cer
tainly was very unpleasant to Englishmen. Their early hours
for meals, the heavy and greasy provisions on their tables,
and the peculiar mode of dressing it, with the thin white
Avine they usually drank, were the chief objections our coun
trymen entertained against residing in Dutch houses. By
degrees however, after being permanently fixed, alterations
took place, and our countrymen persuaded the Dutch to
L L

258 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. •
adopt more of the English customs, which the Mynheers
with some difficulty entered into, so that there was a mix
ture of manners half English, half Dutch, in the hours of
dining, and the mode of dressing the victuals. The greatest
contest arose in the cooking department, from the attempt
to preArail on them to substitute butter for grease, and less
of it ; as an Englishman does not require so much oily
matter to enable him to swallow down his food as the
Dutch do, for they actually bolt their meat. As soon as
government could erect or procure barracks for the officers
and men of the garrison, messes were established, and the
inconveniences arising from the difference between the
Dutch and English habits, and the great expense of living
at their houses Avere done away.
Coffee- Some time after the Cape fell into our hands, a few
tavenis ^rst coffee-houses and taverns were established, by persons who

set

Englishmen, came from England for that purpose ; but from the extravagant
prices they charged, and Avhich indeed could not in some
measure be loAvered, an account of the dearness of every
European article, the merchants charging tAvo or three
hundred per cent, on every article, and retailing to the
inn or tavern keepers at that rate, these houses of enter
tainment Avere neither Avell kept nor much resorted to.
Every regiment having besides established its oavii mess,
they could be more easily dispensed Avith. Many occa
sional passengers avIio could not afford to live at so dear a
rate, preferred boarding at the Dutch houses, Avhere they
cquld ascertain their daily expenses ; and contented themselves

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 259
with now and then perhaps going to an English tavern to
partake of victuals dressed after the manner of our country.
One very excellent house of entertainment was established by African
J J Club-house.
subscription, called the African Club-House ; and on a very
extensive scale; most of the officers of the garrison- being
members of it. The subscription and, expense of living in this
house was hoAvever very high, particularly if you called
for European wines. There were here to be found two bil
liard tables, a whist-club, and conveniences for other games
of skill and chance ; and these I have reason to believe were
the cause of throwing many of the members into distressed
circumstances, whilst they enriched others.
The difference of the price Of living, as well as of every All articles
article, Avas prodigiously raised after the arrival of the Eng- p^e by the
glisli : previous to that, every thing was reasonable and En'cdTsh?
cheap ; for, from one rix-dollar to one and a half per day,
strangers might be accommodated Avith board and lodging,
sharing in all respects the same fare as the Dutch them
selves, as they never made a second table, or separate din
ner ; if they had twenty guests in their house, all sat down
to meals with the family. After the English arrived, the
Dutch raised the price of every thing. They were happy
on all occasions to have Englishmen in their houses, as they
well knew the little regard our countrymen had for money. '
Thoughtless and extravagant, our officers part with it
readily at all times, both in our own country and in fo
reign places. l*l2

260 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
On my first coming to the Cape, which happened some
months after its capture, I paid for board and lodging at
the rate of tAvo and a half rix-dollars a day, or about 10*.
of their currency, and about 7«- 6d. British. The rix-
dollar being a paper-money, worth there 4s. and about
three British. The last time I Avas at the Cape, on my
return from India, I was charged for diet and lodging three %
Spanish dollars per day, equal to five rix-dollars paper-
money. The avidity Avith which the Dutch sought after
the sterling money, or haard gelt, as they termed it, was
very great ; I suppose they had but a very indifferent idea
of the stability of their bank. When I first arrived in
1790, I got seven, eight, and nine rix-dollars in paper, for
each guinea, or from 28*. to 36*. of their currency; and
ten had been given for gold immediately on the arrival
of the English. I received for star-pagodas, valued at
Madras 8*., and intrinsically worth 7«- 6d., 10s. of their
money ; and a rupee worth 2s. 6d. British, I have exchanged
for a rix-dollar.
Hours of The Dutch keep early hours, breakfast at eight o'clock,
meals, and *
usual food, dine about one, and sup at nine. At each of those meals
they have boiled, broiled, and roasted meat. At breakfast,
besides tea, coffee, and fruits of every kind which this
country produces, a boiled leg of mutton, and perhaps a
dish of stewed beef is introduced ; but so very full of
grease, that it disgusts those who are not accustomed to
this gross food so early in the day. The tea produced at

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 26 1
their tables is very indifferent, and is sweetened with coarse
brown sugar. Every cup of tea is generally half filled
with flies, which are here extremely troublesome, particu
larly in the summer season. I would recommend to pas
sengers from India, to bring their own tea and sugar on
shore with them. The Dutch have it in their power to
get excellent tea from China and the East-Indies, yet they
have always a very inferior sort. Coffee is much more used,
and is tolerably good.
At dinner and supper their tables are covered Avith large
quantities of meat. The manner of dressing and cooking
it is highly disgusting to an Englishman's palate, being so
full of grease, so indifferently and dirtily dressed, and
served up by their slave cooks. Though the meat may
be good in itself, it is spoiled to us in the cooking, being
soaked in stinking grease, or rank oily butter, or oil made
from the fat of the sheep's tail. Roasted beef, mutton,
venison, foAvls, and every substantial dish, are sent to table
in this manner. A goose swimming in oil is no uncommon
dish ; or a piece of veal, roasted to rags, and covered with
rancid butter turned into oil, with Avhich the meat, Avhen
it gets cold, is quite incrusted. The fowls, which are in
deed large and excellent, are also spoiled in the dressing.
A leg of boiled mutton, which is a standing dish at all
their meals, constitutes almost the only meat that an Eng
lishman could eat. This being served up without grease,
was my constant dish during my residence here.
The Cape sheep are very different from the English in MuttoB.

262 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
appearance and shape, and equally so in taste. They are
tall and lank, about the loins; their wool is coarse, and
resembles more the shaggy covering of goats, being a kind
of frizzled hair, of little use except for stuffing matrasses
or to make coarse cloth and stockings for their boors and
slaAres. The mutton is by no means so well-flavoured as ours,
the flesh being coarse and in general lean ; having little
fat about the intestines, loins, or kidneys ; all the fat of
the animal seems indeed to be concentrated in the tail,
which, as I have already obsenred, is exceedingly large and
broad, being one solid lump of fat, Aveighing from nine to
twelve and fifteen pounds, and sometimes more. This
makes up to the inhabitants the deficiency of fat on the
carcase, and is used in a variety of Avays. Mutton is very
plentiful at the Cape, and is the general food; from one
and a half to two rix-dollars, is the usual price of a sheep ;
though latterly they made the English pay three and four
rix-dollars.
Beef. The beef is seldom fat and in good order, but generally
tough and lean, from being killed immediately after a long
journey from the interior. The flesh is not of so good
flavour as that of our English cattle, not being fed on such
rich and nourishing pasture, but chiefly reared on coarse
sedgy grass or acrid herbs, which they pick up among
the sandy A7alleys, or on the sides of the hills. The cattle
I saAv seemed taller than ours, the legs being longer in
proportion to the body. The manner of slaughtering is

THE CAPE OF* GOOD HOPE. • 263
different from ours ; it is that commonly practised in
Spain. A spike is introduced through the back of the
•neck into the spinal marrow, Avhen the beast -falls directly,
and his throat is afterwards cut Avith a knife, to let out
the blood.
I have already mentioned that the Dutch have a sort of Pigs, &e.
antipathy to pork ; and I never recollect seeing it at their
tables. Nor is the rearing of pigs at all attended to.
The usual reason given for this is, that these animals
Avould be too expensive, and require too much food of the
vegetable kind ; a very lame excuse, where all sorts of ve
getables are raised with such ease and in such plenty.
FoavIs, geese, and ducks are good and cheap. Turkeys
are scarce. Vegetables of every kind are in the greatest
abundance, and sufficient to supply all the ships which
touch at Table Bay, besides their oavh consumption.
Before every guest that sits down to table, is placed a Wineusedat
bottle of Cape wine, and another of water, with a large their tables'
and small glass to drink as he pleases. The wine they
give is not good, nor even scarcely palatable ; nor to be
compared in any degree to the most common of our Eu
ropean wines, being a weak thin white Avine, which does
not even cost them one shilling a gallon. None of our
countrymen would drink it, when any other sort could be
procured. Malt liquor is scarcely ever set before you, Malt liquor
sometimes they may, by way of treat, present some Dutch nSfenT
cheese and beer, but those articles are very scarce, and
consequently very dear. Though the Dutch have it in their

264

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Dining rooms.

Dessert of
fruit.

poAver to make both those articles at a very easy rate,
they do not trouble themselves about it ; they even
affect not to Avish for Avhat they term luxuries. Their
barley, which is usually given quite green to the horses
and cattle, might afford them abundance of malt ; and
they only Avant hops to make excellent beer, having
every other ingredient in great quantity. I once tasted a
kind of beer made from bitter herbs, peculiar to this
country, instead of hops, but very indifferent and poor in
its quality.
The room they reserve for meals in most houses is the
hall, terminating at the end of the passage which leads in
from the front doors, and is called the back hall, from its
being thrown so much towards the rear of the building.
Those halls are generally lofty and spacious, well adapted
to the heat of the climate in summer ; though in the win
ter and cold months, -I often wished they had occupied one
of the sitting rooms adjoining, as they have no fire-places
in any of their rooms, and stoves being sparingly used,
even in damp and cold weather.
As soon as breakfast, dinner, or supper is announced
on the table, the front doors are locked to prevent inter
ruption, and to let people know they are at meals; if you
walk through the streets at those hours, you will not see
one Dutch house open. This is an invariable custom at
the Cape. After the meat is cleared away, a dessert of fruit
is placed on the table, consisting of every kind produced at
the Cape; oranges, guavoes, pumpkins, melons, peaches,
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. %65
apricots, plums, cherries, strawberries, figs, green and dried
walnuts, chesnuts, fresh pulled and dried almonds, raisins,
grapes, &c. ; all excellent, and extremely wholesome in this
climate. As soon as the dessert commences, the Dutchmen call stupid and
unsociable
for their pipes, hats, and spitting vases ; and smoke away mannei of the •
Dutchmen at
Avith a solemnity and gravity that a stranger might ima- table.
gine to be studied. They Avill at times sit smoking for a
couple of hours Avith the most stupid composure, nor ever
think of stirring, till they are inclined to take their after
noon's nap. This manner of proceeding would in England
be thought rude and brutal, but it is the custom here, and
indeed is of a piece Avith the rest of their manners. They
prefer a pipe to either the dessert or a chearful glass ;
and the pleasures of conversation, from the time a Dutch
man's pipe is put into his mouth, are with him altogether
at an end. He never speaks a word afterwards, except to
call to Africa, Januara, Februara, (the names they generally
give their slaves), for another pipe of tobacco. All the
while they are smoking, they scarcely deign even to look
around, seeming to be wrapt up in the most solemn and
thoughtful dignity.
A Dutchman's hat seems nailed to his head, excepting
Avhen the meat is on the table ; he is hardly ever Avithout
it, even in company Avith ladies. The latter are certainly
treated Avith very little ceremony. After the first saluta
tion, I have observed of the Dutchmen, that they are much
more ceremonious towards each other than toAvards the
M m

£<3S THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Women. A Dutchman's maxim is that the head is the pro
per place for the hat. I must here mention an instance
which happened in Ceylon of their adherence to this cus
tom. Being on a visit to Lieutenant M'Donald, the com
mandant of Caltura, a Dutch clergyman, and one of some
rank and consequence amongst them, came in at breakfast
time to call on the commandant, according to the usual cus
tom of the place. On being asked of course to sit down,
he did so without taking his hat off or shewing even com
mon politeness, although there Avere two or three officers
at table. Lieutenant M'Donald told one of his servants
to take off that Dutch gentleman's hat and hang it up,
telling him he was iioav at an Englishman's table, where it
was the custom to be uncovered. The reverend gentleman
bore this rebuke with great sang-froid, nor did it in the
least prevent his making a hearty breakfast after his own
manner.
Women At Cape Town the ladies remain some time at table after
more agreea- . .
bie in their dinner to entertain their guests, and endeavour to make up
for the unsocial dispositions of their husbands and male re
lations. When I returned to the Cape, in 1801, I Avas
agreeably surprised to find that they Avere considerably im
proved in their manners and mode of living, by the inter
course which necessarily took place between them and our
countrymen, and that they had adopted a considerable por
tion of our manners and customs. I understood from some
of my friends, who had been here since the capture, that
it required a good deal of persuasion to make the Dutch

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 267
alter their hours of eating and other habits, and adapt them
selves more to ours. Self-interest, the most powerful engine
to work on their minds, Avas certainly one great motive Avhich
brought them over to the new fashions, and made them
accommodate themselves to the British taste. Their preju
dices Avere triumphed over by the fear of losing them as
guests and inmates, for which they paid so handsomely ; and
there was also some reason to apprehend that they might
also lose the profits of occasional passengers to and from
India, who might be induced to go to the hotels and taverns
which Avere established by Englishmen, and Avhere if they
paid dear they could have at least every thing after the
manner of their own country. The victuals at the Dutch
houses were latterly much better dressed, a great deal of
that stinking butter and grease left out; and at least t\vo
or three dishes roasted and boiled & la mode Angloise. The
breakfast hour was altered to nine, dinner to four, and sup
per to ten. At each of those meals better fare was intro
duced; the Avine they set doAvn Avas purer and older, and
tolerably good, and every thing came to be clean and in
good order.
The Dutch are remarkably neat in their houses. The Cleanliness
and neatness
floors, stair-cases, and furniture, are kept exceedingly clean of the Dutch
and highly polished ; the floors of their halls, and most of houses.
their ground floors, are of broad square red tiles, highly
polished, glazed, or painted ; the Avails and ceilings stuccoed
or painted, and the wainscotting adorned with looking glasses
and branches. Their sitting rooms are very neat and clean :
M M 2

268 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the furniture indeed is usually clumsy in the extreme, and
looks very awkward though kept in excellent order. Seve
ral houses however are not inelegantly furnished. I must
do the ladies at the Cape the justice to say they are most
excellent housewives and managers. Every thing within
doors is left to them, the men never interfering or taking
any trouble but walking to and fro in their halls, or be
fore their doors with a pipe in their mouths.
Beds very The beds are very good ; the sheets of calico, and the
good. ^ °
matrasses stuffed with feathers so fine and doAvny, that one
sinks quite in a hollow immediately on getting into them.
This Avas so different from what I had been used to in
India, where a cane couch and a mat is all one requires,
that on my first stepping into a bed at the Cape I could
not help calling out, imagining I was falling through to the
ground ; and my exclamations brought in some of the family
from the next room, who were highly amused with my
alarm.
Slaves are The slaves are very attentive to the lodgers, and serve
very attentive
to strangers, them cliearfully and Avillingly, receiving with thanks any
little donation one pleases to give them on going aAvay.
They are exceedingly handy and expert in all domestic offices.
They are also reckoned faithful and honest ; and this may
be the case towards their masters and mistresses, but it is
necessary for strangers to be careful of their money, and
not leave any articles of value in their way. One morning
through forgetfulness I left my purse under my pillow on
going out to breakfast ; but missing it immediately I re-

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 269
turned to my room where I found a slave woman making
up the bed. On inquiring for my purse she told me she
had found it, and had given it to her master, to whom I
applied and indeed recovered it, but somewhat lighter than
I had left it. Previous to going to bed the night before, I had
reckoned what money it contained, Avhich consisted of about
a dozen guineas, thirty pagodas, and twenty-five rix-dollars ;
a part of each coin was taken out, amounting to about ten
pounds British, and. all the satisfaction I could obtain Avas
a reproof from the master not to leave my money in the
way of a slave. The slave was an old Caffree woman, Avho
had been upwards of thirty years in his family, and had
several children, all the property of her master. I found in
the course of the day similar losses had been sustained by
officers who had lodged there, and they thought me lucky
in having recovered any part of what I had lost. This
Dutch gentleman had several very amiable and handsome
daughters, Avho spoke English tolerably well ; two of them
Avere married to British officers, and were highly esteemed
by every one who knew them. The eldest of these ladies
married an officer of dragoons, and died tmmediately on her
coming to England of the small-pox.
The Dutch inhabitants of Cape Town are by no means circum-
rich, five or six thousand pounds being thought a very great ^Dutch.
fortune, and but few possessing so much ; yet on account of
the manner in which they live, and the cheapness of most
articles, they are generally in easy circumstances. It is to
be considered that from their different habits the Dutch

270 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Live com- here can live on a fourth part of the income that a Bri-
moderate^n- tish subject could ; and considerably less than for Avhat they
themselves could in Holland. House-rent with them is a
very small consideration, their dwellings being for the most
part their own property, purchased at a small price from
Reasonswhy. the Company, or derived from inheritance. The garden
ground supplies their houses with vegetables for their tables,
besides an overplus Avhich they convert into ready money.
Poultry are reared by their slaves in the country, and
brought to them at no expense ; and the profit they derive
from the labour of their slaves, who are easily fed and
clothed for a trifle, is often considerable. They are subject
to no casual or pleasurable expenses, such as plays and
expensiATe private or public entertainments. Their houses
and tables are supplied at a very moderate rate; the in
dulgence of their appetites with gross food at meals, being
almost their only constant expense. Carriages and horses
for pleasure and exercise are seldom kept ; as they think
the exercise of riding too laborious, they seldom ride
for riding's sake. When they entertain company, 'tis at a
moderate expense indeed. This they seldom do, though
any one is Avelcome to come and sit down at their table,
provided he is a neighbour Avith whom they are on a good
and friendly footing; but in this number feAV can usually
be reckoned. In visits of ceremony or friendship a feAV
glasses of gin are their greatest treat. When they do keep
carriages or horses, these come to but a very trifling ex
pense, as they have no wages to pay to additional servants.
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 271
The articles of clothing they buy are few, for they seldom
have many changes of dress. The profit they receive from
hiring out their slaves is often very great ; to us their la
bour was very dear, particularly washing, making of clothes,
and shoe and boot mending. The price an Englishman was Great diffe
rence in the
obliged to pay for making a shirt was very nearly equal to expenses of
the English
the value of the cloth itself. A waistcoat cost as much in and Dutch.
making as at the shop, and a coat in the same proportion.
When those aud many more circumstances of the same kind
are considered, one may perceive that the Dutch at the
Cape can live at a very moderate expense indeed ; and that
what to us would appear but a mere pittance would enable
them, with all those advantages already stated, to maintain
their families in a very good station. The English, on the
contrary, who resorted hither for trade, or in situations under
government, after the capture, if they did not chuse to
board at a Dutch house, but rather took up an establish
ment of their own, found living here extravagantly dear and
inconvenient in the extreme.

272 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

CHAPTER XV.
Population of the Cape — Religion — Make but few Converts
of the People of Colour ; not apt to administer Baptism —
Funerals — Disposition of the White Inhabitants — Young
Women fond of Amusement — Are tolerably educated in
Music and Dancing — Contrast between the Dispositions of
Men and Women — Latter esteemed handsome whilst young
— Marriages, Settlements, and Privileges from Birthright —
Diseases — Causes of them — Afraid of the Small Pox; which
once nearly destroyed the Colony — Are cautious of allowing
Persons to come into the Settlement with any contagious
Distemper — The People of the Cape in general not long
lived — The Slaves — Various Nations and Classes — Laws con
cerning them — Their Qualifications — Mulattoes and Slaves of
Colour the best and dearest — Bengal and Malabar in ge
neral faithful and good — Madagascar, African, Negro,
sulky and untractable, strong and laborious — Malays useful,
l}ut dreadfully vindictive and revengefid — Instances of their
cruel and sanguinary Disposition — Hottentot Slaves, Laivs
concerning them — Manner in which the Dutch treat their
Slaves — Mode of punishing them — Vices and Passions to
ivhich they are addicted — Fuel and House-rent dear at the
Cape.
Population JL HE population of the Cape of Good Hope is uncom-
of the Cape. .
monly small, Avhen compared to its extent. No regular

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 273
returns had been given to the Dutch government; and
particularly Avith regard to the distant parts, the governors
were equally ignorant of the number of the people, and
the quantity of the produce ; although upon the latter, in
a considerable degree, the revenues of the colony depended.
In Cape Town the free people are computed at about five
thousand, and the slaves in a proportion to three to one;
women and children of barb classes included. The rest of
the colony, a tract so extensive and in many places so
fertile, is not supposed to contain above double the number
of inhabitants in Cape Toavii. No circumstance can afford
a stronger proof of the ignorance and want of manage
ment in the government of the colony, than this extreme
thinness of the population, where its increase was obstructed
by no natural causes.
The religion of the inhabitants of the colony is that of the Religion of
the Dutch
established church in Holland, Avith the exception of some colonists.
Lutherans and a few other dissenters. The principal church
near the grand parade, is a very handsome building, orna
mented inside with a great deal of carving and gilding ;
though the figures, which in some measure are emblemati
cal of the Cape, being lions, ostriches, and other animals
found in the colony, are exceedingly clumsy and ill-shaped.
The church is Avell attended, and a great deal of solemnity
and decorum observed in the worship.
At first a stranger might think the people here very devout Their devo
tion in a great
and religious ; yet although the government has in many ways degree exter
nal.
paid much attention to the morals of the inhabitants, an
Nn

rerruss.-

£74 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
intimate acquaintance with their private characters will
soon convince an observer, that their devotion is in a great
measure mere outAvard appearance. Notwithstanding their
canting, Avhich might lead one to imagine they are bigotted
enthusiasts, and strict in the extreme in all religious duties,
yet this is in fact not the case. It is only the outward
shew of a Sunday morning ; for, except on that day, they
never have any concern with their Prayers or their Hymn
book.
Make few A small portion of the people of colour and free blacks
converts to .... . ,,
Christianity, are converted to Christianity, and but a small portion.
The Dutch widely differ from the Portugueze, who enforced
Dutch clergy religion with, fire and sword wherever they came. The
Dutch clergy indeed have got into the opposite extreme,
and shew but little charity towards their unenlightened
brethren ; and Avhere they expect to get nothing for their
pains, give themselves no trouble to propagate the Gospek.
The Dutch government have been very remiss in not urgr
ing the clergy more to the duty of instructing both the
natives and slaves in Christianity. Even the people of co
lour, partly the offspring of Christians, have been often
denied baptism. Whether this Avas meant to diminish the
number of unlaAvful children by heathen Avomen, or pro
ceeded from whites being ashamed of having them equal
in some measure with themselves, and entering the gates
of heaven along with them, I know not ; but not allowing
such a number of children born of Christian fathers to
share the rites of Christianity, was certainly a cruel and

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. ^7$
uncharitable method of preventing sin. Pride will not let
their black offspring mix with their own blood, or have the
same privileges as themselves ; but, as I have been told,
their chief motive was the fear of their being lost to them
as slaves, on their becoming Christians.
Burials at the Cape are carried on with the greatest M°de of bu~
solemnity. All the friends, relations, and neighbours of the
deceased attend in the deepest mourning. All that day
you will scarcely hear a word from one of them, though
half of those who escorted the body to the grave, had
been probably at variance during his whole life time with
the deceased. The prayers are said over the body before
it is brought out of the chamber ; they say none whatever
at the grave; but cover the coffin in silence, and then de
part. A funeral with them is equal to a wake in Ireland,
except that scenes of inebriety do not so often take place.
Here they assemble to smoke, drink gin, and talk of the
deceased's abilities in the mercantile way ; for these consti
tute every virtue ; and without caring much for the loss
of their friend, they smoke and drink sorrow away.
To compare the different manners of the Dutch here
with those of our countrymen, without knowing the natural
apathy and phlegm of the Hollanders of all ranks, would
indeed surprise any Englishman. Even between the dispo
sitions of the men and women we are here presented with
tlie greatest contrast. The men are insipid, dull, and un
sociable: indolent and lazy in the extreme. Their amuse- Disposition
ments and enjoyments seem to consist of eating, smoking, dull and
_. phlegmatic.
KN2

276 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
and sleeping; a chearful, lively, and social conversation is
rarely kept up among them. The joys of the bottle, for
the sake of conviviality, are here unknown. They scarcely
ever play at cards Avhen they meet at evening parties, but
sit over their pipe and glass of gin and water in a g oup by
themselves. The whole turn of their conversation} if any
takes place, is constantly on the subject of their Ararious
mercantile affairs,, though exceedingly trifling and of no ex
tent or consequence. I have frequently been at their par
ties, where I met a number of both males and females;
the men kept huddled together in one corner, sitting OATer
their pipes, and leaving a number of agreeable young wo
men by themselves, at the other end of the room, to be
entertained by the English officers.
Women The women at the Cape, Avhilst young, are pretty and
more lively . .
and cheerful, engaging, remarkably fair in their complexions, too much
so indeed, as they want that expression and those animated
tints which our amiable countryAVomen possess. They really
seem to have a greater share of liveliness and good humour
than Avhat naturally belongs to the national character of
Fond of the descendants of Hollanders. Dancing and visiting are
the principal amusements with them, and of these they are
very fond. There are no public balls or other amusements
at Cape ToAvn, except those parties given by the English
families and officers of the garrison, which the young ladies
embrace with avidity. Any private house Avhich has musi
cal and dancing parties at it, is open to any stranger or
inhabitant of respectable character. The Dutch here are

dancing.

•THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 277
certainly much more strict and select in their company
than those at Ceylon, where a number of people of colour,
and some nearly black, associate and mingle with the
whites. This is occasioned by the inter-marriages of many
of the Dutch on the ilsand of Ceylon Math women of co
lour and half-cast Portugueze, which rarely happens at
Cape Town. The young Avomen here are fond of copying
the dress and manners of the English and Other foreign
ladies, who come amongst them; and in this they succeed
tolerably Avell. As most of the Dutch inhabitants are re- Tolerably
skilled in
spectabley and though not rich, have enough to liAre com- music.
fortably on after their own way, their daughters are pretty
well educated in music and dancing. They are in general
fond of the society of foreigners, particularly the English.,
though I must do them the justice to say they are not
given to a spirit of intriguing.
The difference betAveen the young men and women, in Contrast of
character be-
their appearance and dispositions, is very great. The for- tween the
rr r > J * men and wo-
mer are in general clumsy and aAvkAvard in their gait, un- men.
sociable and sullen in their dispositions ; without taste or
fashion in their clothes, or manner of putting them on :
whilst the young Avomen are lively, innocent, and cheerful,
dress well, and are given to society, in which their parents
indulge them without restraint, and this privilege they sel
dom abuse. A Dutch father and mother behold with in
difference their daughters frequent the balls and parties
given by foreigners, without thinking it necessary to have
a matron accompanying them, to Avatch over their conduct.

278 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Improprieties, which might be expected by some persons
to arise from this latitude of indulgence, are really very
rare ; and prove that suspicious constraint is the very worst
way to secure the virtue of women.
Though the young women are often so engaging in their
persons, it is rare to see a married woman of a middling
age Avho is not clumsy in shape, and indolent, and slovenly
in her habits. In the married state they turn quite do
mestic, and seldom go out of their houses ; they seem to
copy their husbands in every thing but smoking. Indeed
one good reason for their keeping so much at home is,
that their liouses being open for the reception of passengers
touching continually at tlie Cape, haA'e generally at all
times of the year foreigners of every nation residing in
them. This requires their being for the most part at home,
to attend to their guests and the management of their
bouses. It has been alleged, though I speak not from
my own observation or knowledge, that the married women
are not so correct in their conduct, as before they entered
into that state. I must however say of them, that to me
they always seemed to be exceedingly attached to their
husbands, and devoted to their family concerns. A few
instances had certainly occurred of infidelity in married
ivomen, which Avere openly spoken of; but these were far
from being so numerous as to throw any stain on the
general character of the matrons at the Cape.
children too The children here are too much entrusted to the care
trusted tp of their female slaves ; but the ill consequences arising from
giaves.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 279
this method of bringing them up cannot be so much felt
as in their East-India settlements ; for they are earlier taken
from the charge of the slaves here, and instructed in a few
branches of education. The young men are initiated in Manner in
which they
mercantile habits, and a sufficient knowledge of Avriting and are educated.
accompts to render them capable of holding situations in
the government offices; this constitutes the whole of what
is instilled into the minds of the young men. The girls, as
I have observed, receive a moderate share of writing, dancing,
and music ; and some who have a taste for them become
proficients in the latter accomplishments.
Their first born here is not intitled to all those advantages Privileges
as with us in Europe. The property is equally divided be
tween the male children ; a certain portion being previously
set apart for the female branch. No child can be disinhe
rited by the whim or caprice of the parent, without assign
ing a very strong reason to the government ; and even then
something must be allowed for his subsistence. Disobedient
children are taken cognizance of by the fiscal, and certain
laws and regulations made for their management and neces
sary punishment. When a Dutchman marries, a full and Marriage*
. , , ar|d settle-
accurate account of his property must be given and registered ments of
• i r 1 ¦ i m i t their pro-
m order to provide for his children, so that they may be perty.
in no danger of becoming a burthen on the colony. When
those arrive at a proper age, and enter the marriage state,
a certain proportion must be settled on them. The chil
dren are scarcely ever bound out to any trade, or indeed sent
to the public schools, which are very few at the Cape. The

280 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
reason they assign for this is, that it assimilates them too
much to slaves ; and, in consequence of this silly pride, their
children are curtailed from receiving a liberal education, and
a knowledge of several useful trades. No white freeman at
the Cape, except the very loAvest indeed, works at any trade
which requires a regular apprenticeship, or a studious ap-
Education of plication under a master. The schoolmasters, who attend
their chil
dren, the children at their parents' houses, are generally low, il
literate people, Avho have probably spent the greater part of
their lives in carrying a musket, and whose knoAvledge ex
tends only to a little reading and accompts. The children
both male and female are remarked for their beauty ; the
boys whilst at that age seem to possess a vivacity and talent
which, if properly attended to, might lead to very different
habits, and a very different display of abilities from that
which they afterwards exhibit in a maturer age. For want
of a liberal and proper education, their course from infancy
to manhood seems an uninterrupted course of degeneracy.
One of their first lessons, as I have elsewhere observed, is
to domineer over, and insult the unfortunate slaves, who are
subject to all their whims and caprices. Observe the Dutch
children, and those of the slaves playing and mixing toge
ther, you Avill see the former at one moment beating and
tyranizing over the latter, and at the next caressing and en
couraging them ; so that from an early period they acquire
an arbitrary and capricious habit of mind.
Usual dis- The diseases to Avhich the inhabitants of the colony are
eases at the .
Cape, and subject are dropsies, apoplexies, and diseases of the liver,
their causes. 4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 281
with other chronical disorders proceeding from a gross habit
of body, and their lazy and indolent manner of living. A
Dutchman never thinks of riding by way of amusement to
unbend the mind, and assist nature with wholesome exer
cise. Whenever he gets on horseback it is for the purpose
of transacting business at some distance, or to visit his coun
try house. Some feAV ride out of an evening, or take the
air in a cabriolet, or clumsy two-wheeled vehicle of a most
remarkable construction, probably derived from a model of
the last century. But should a south-east Avind arise they
hurry to their houses and shut themselves up, laughing at
our temerity in staying out and being exposed to its dis
agreeable effects.
Their children are subject to sore throats and eruptions on Dreadfully
their bodies. Those epidemic diseases to which children are small-pox.
subject in Europe, such as the meazles, hooping-cough, and
small-pox, are scarcely known here ; but when they do make
their appearance they prove very fatal. An inhabitant of
the Cape, born there, rarely undergoes all those three. The
small-pox when it takes place is almost certain to cause
the death of the person affected. They look on it as a
most terrible calamity ; and no persuasions will induce them
to suffer inoculation to be practised. Some years ago this
disorder broke out in Cape Town, and carried off an im
mense number so as to cause the most alarming apprehen
sions for the whole colony. They allow no person to land
without first examining whether he has had it or not. The Cautious in
. , . allowing
moment a ship appears in the bay she is visited by the persons in-
O o

282 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
fected with health master, a doctor kept and paid by government solely*
it to come
ashexe. for examining the passengers and crew of every vessel which
touches here. This man. goes on board and minutely exa
mines every one from the captain to the cabin boy in
the most minute manner, and the result must be registered
and entered in the government books before any one can
be allowed to land. A slight eruption, boil, or pimple, may
be the cause of preventing a person from obtaining leave to
come on shore. When this disease at any time broke out .
in Cape ToAvn, those who had not had it fled immediately
into the country, and it was some time before they could
be persuaded to return. During the time the English were
in possession of the Cape every argument was made use
of, and daily examples sheAvn of the children of the soldiers,
and those men belonging to the different regiments who had
it not previous to coming here, being inoculated ; but with
out producing any effect in removing their prejudices. On
my first arrival in 179©*, when coming with my regiment,
this ceremony of being examined by the health master was
not of course attended to, but on my way home as a pas
senger I was obliged to shew my arm to the doctor, as also
certify under my hand that I formerly liad the disease.
I am confident many more Dutch ladies Avould have been
married to the British officers, but that the fear of going
to Europe and catching the small-pox, deterred them. " H
I marry you I must go to England where I shall be sure
to catch the small-pox and die." Such was the language
I have heard made use of by several of the young ladies.
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 283
This fear has been increased since two Cape ladies, who
had gone from thence to England with their husbands,
caught the infection in this country, and unfortunately fell
victims to it. I have however the pleasure to know a very
amiable Dutch lady Avho had come home with her husband,
a captain of artillery, and had submitted to inoculation which
terminated very favourably.
The inhabitants of the Cape are not long lived, owing to The people
of the Cape
their habit of body and mode of living. Our countrymen in general
not long
find the climate of the Cape exceedingly healthy, nor are lived.
they subject to any diseases except those brought on by
their OAvn intemperance. Many of those disorders to which
we are subject to in Europe are almost unknown here. On
the whole, the Cape of Good Hope has the first climate in
the world, and even preferable in my opinion to that of
Saint Helena. The general hospitals at the Cape were, I
am happy to say, inhabited only by about thirty of our
troops; very little practice for a physician is indeed to be
met with at the Cape.
The slaves are very numerous at Cape Town, and com- The slaves.
pose a very large proportion of its inhabitants. Every
Dutchman of any consequence or rank having from ten to
fifteen or tAventy, including females and children. Even
those Dutch families of an inferior order have often in their
families from six to a dozen, who are domesticated and bred
up in their liouses from their infancy. The Dutch keep
no European or white servants whatever. The slaves are
of various descriptions and nations. It must be alloAved that
o o 2

284 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in general they are well and humanely treated, particularly
at Cape Town. There are of course instances of inhuman
and cruel masters, and it has been observed that the Dutch
treated their slaves much more rigorously before the arrival
of the English than afterwards. Some severe laws were
enacted to prevent the crimes of those unfortunate crea
tures, at the same time that there Avere wholesome, just,
and humane edicts passed in favour of them to prevent their
Laws con- being cruelly and unjustly treated by their masters. From
cerning .
them. their being so very numerous, and composed of a mixture
of A^arious black nations, apprehensions of their rising and
massacring the colonists, were often entertained, and the
strictest care Avas taken to prevent such a contingency. From
Avhat I observed of this large body of people at the Cape,
I could see no just cause for the Dutch to be uneasy on
that account ; yet their apprehensions were not unnatural,
Avhen Ave consider the great superiority of the slaves in num
bers, and the variety of dispositions Avhich characterize those
natives of different parts of Asia and Africa. Many of them
are known to be treacherous, cruel, and revengeful, whilst
others are timid, passive, and obedient. All those slaves,
who were not well known to be of the latter class, were
strictly looked after, and care was taken to lock them up
at night in a separate and secure part of the house ; a lodge
in the rear of each building being set apart for that pur
pose, and strongly blocked up and secured from the apart
ments occupied by the family, and their more confidential
slaves. Every morning these nightly prisoners were set at
3

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 285
liberty to folloAV the various labours allotted for them.
After the arrival of the English every apprehension of their
rising seemed to be done aAvay ; the number of troops which
composed our garrison, and their strict attention to duty,
being sufficient to dispel any fears of that sort.
The difterent races of slaves and people of colour to be Various races
of slaves.
met Avith at Cape Town, consist of the following classes : —
The slaves from Bengal and the Malabar coast. Those of co
lour, descended from a connection between the Dutch and
their slaves or black women. Malays from Batavia and
the Eastern islands of India. The Buganese, half Malay
and half African ; the natives of Madagascar ; those of the
coast of Guinea, called Caffrees and Negroes ; the Caffrees
and Africans of the interior part of the Cape of Good Hope ;
and lastby, the Hottentots, the numbers of whom employed
in service here are few; and rarely unmixed, but born
either of a Hottentot father or mother, and on the other
side a Caffree or Negro.
The slaves of colour, called in general Mulattoes, are Mulattoes
n- 1-1 i • -ii ani^ slaves of
the offspring ot the whites with slave Avomen. These are colour
esteemed the first and best class, and a far greater value is best,
set on them than on any of the others. The men of this
description composing the class of house servants, are em
ployed to attend at table as butlers and footmen, and wait
on the strangers Avho have a temporary residence in their
masters' houses. The women of this description are the
house-servants, and attend to the bed-chambers ; they also.
wait at table on their mistresses, about whose persons they

286 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
are chiefly employed. These are better dressed and more
gently treated by far than the other slaves, and seldom
put to laborious work ; their leisure hours being employed
in knitting, spinning, sewing, and the like light Occupa
tions. Most of them, particularly when young, are hand
some and even beautiful. I have seen persons among them
as fair as some I have met Avith in Europe ; and if I had
not been told they were slaves born of Mulatto women, I
•should certainly have thought them children of the poorer
Dutch. Scarcely any of this description, whilst girls and
young Avomen, but are comely and well-shaped, and dress
like our servant maids in Europe. The Dutch ladies take
a pride in having them nice and well-dressed to follow
them when they go to church or pay visits ; they are em
ployed to carry their mistresses' Prayer book or work bag,
and to hold an umbrella over their heads to shade them
from the sun.
Those of the The Bengaiese and Malabars are considered the next to
;Bengal and
Malabar those i have described, and are also treated in much the
jcoast are
.faithful and same manner as the former. Every person who has been
in India must allow those Asiatics to be faithful, mild, and
submissive in their dispositions ; never requiring ill-treatment
or blows to stimulate them in their duty. An angry word
actuates upon them like an electrical shock; they study
their masters' looks, and as readily obey a nod as if it Avas
a peremptory command. Those people are entrusted in
all domestic concerns, and make ingenious artificers and
draftsmen. Both the males and females are employed as

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 287
cooks, butlers, and household servants; and as their mild,
peaceable, and gentle disposition is so well-known, no fears
are entertained of their committing any sanguinary out
rage. The Madagascar, Guinea, Negro, Buganese, and Caffree Madagascar,Negro, and
slaves, are by far the most numerous at the Cape. In Caffree.Sulky and
colour they are much blacker than any other, in person nnti actable.
stronger, in disposition often sulky, untractable, and
treacherous, requiring harsh and severe usage and chastise
ment to make them work ; they are indeed ahvays idle
whenever they can find an opportunity. From their bodily Strong, and
strength they are used for the more laborious Avork, al- bour. ° *"
though they are occasionally employed in household and
domestic offices. They commonly Avork at masonry, at
wood Avork, and at all those kinds of handicraft Avhich re
quire much exertion. To carry burthens, and to go into
the country, and to procure fuel, is. their chief employment.
They are capable of enduring great fatigue, and it is
astonishing to see the immense loads they carry. Some
times they have to go five, eight, or ten miles into the
country to look for brush-wood, cow-dung, or stumps of
trees for fuel. When they have obtained a sufficient
quantity, perhaps often after a long day's excessive fatigue,
they make it up into two bundles, each of which would
be thought a sufficient burthen for an English porter.
These are made fast to a flat piece of bamboe, about four
feet in length ; one bundle being suspended to each end.
The bamboe is them placed on the shoulder, and the

288 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
slave moves off Avith his Aveights balanced, one SAvinging be
fore and the other behind. In such a manner they convey
baskets of fruit, vegetables, and many other articles, and
go at the rate of five miles an hour.
The slaves of The slaves of the Malay race are tolerably numerous.
the Malay
race. They are employed in many kinds of laborious Avork, such
as gardening, and attending the grounds belonging to the
pleasure-houses round the Toavii ; and in the kitchens,
and the drudgery Avork belonging to them. They are
Extremely also often employed in fishing and procuring fuel. This
vindictive , . .. .
and revenge- last class of people are extremely vindictive, treacherous,
and ferocious ; implacable in their revenge, and on the
slightest provocation, or imaginary insult, will commit
murder. They are indeed a scourge to the people they
come amongst. When bent on revenge, or irritated at
some supposed insult, they scarcely ever fail of wreaking
their vengeance. Many shocking murders have been com
mitted by the Malay slaves on their masters and mis
tresses ; not for the purpose of robbing, but merely to
gratify their thirst of revenge, which nothing but the blood
of their object will satisfy, though at the certain loss of
their own lives. When the Malay has determined on re
venue, he takes a quantity of opium to work himself up
to a state of madness, Avhen he rushes out with a knife or
dagger, Avhich is called a kreese, and after putting- to death
the original object of his infernal passion, he next rushes
at every one he meets, till he is at length overpowered
and taken, which perhaps is not the case till several vie-

THEiCABE OF GOOD HOPE. 28tf.
tims fall before him. Nothing but a lucky shot or blow
that stuns him to the earth, Avill ensure the safety of his
opponent, as he proceeds Avith such a savage fierceness and
impetuosity, that it is reckoned a most arduous and dan
gerous service to encounter him in this state. This is
what is called running a muck ; on the slightest alarm of
Avhich, every one flies before him, and escapes the best
Avay he can. Whoever kills a Malay in the act of running
a muck, is intitled to a very high reward from government ;
and he certainly deserves it, for the most cool and intre
pid are scarcely a match for the Malay, Avhen Avorked to
this pitch of desperate madness.
The two following instances occurred whilst I Avas at Cape instances of
Town : — A Malay for some insult or necessary chastisement disposition.
received from his master, drew a knife and stabbed him
to the heart, and immediately rushed out into the streets
Avith the weapon reeking with the blood of his unfortunate
victim. The first person he met was a very fine slave girl,
about seventeen years old, into whose face he darted the
dreadful weapon. Fortunately a country farmer was at the
moment passing by Strand Street, where it happened, and
having a gun loaded in the waggon he Avas drivin©-, fired
and killed the Malay on the spot. If this shot had not
succeeded in bringing him doAvn, I and a brother officer,
who came to the spot a few moments after, would in all
probability have been his next victims. The poor slaA^e
girl died in a few hours after. This Avas the second time
that a slave of the Malay race, running a muck, was pre-
P r

290 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
vented from falling in with me. Once indeed at Ponamala,
in the East-Indies, I very narroAvly escaped, having been
slightly Avounded in the arm by a Malay who had attacked
some Sepoys ; and if I had not been fortunate enough to
giAre him at the first cut so severe a Avound as to disable
him, he Avould certainly have put me to death. The kreese
he struck me Avith Avas poisoned, and my arm in consequence
SAArellecl to a very great degree, and for some time it was
thought I should have lost it, if not my life. I must here re
mark, that I received the greatest benefit from the Eau de Luce,
which I have every reason to believe is a valuable anti
dote against poison ; it has been found to prevent fatal
effects from the most venomous bites of snakes. Doctor
Anderson, of Madras, was the first avIio administered it in
those cases, and found out its beneficial effects.
Another instance of the barbarity of this race of slaves,
which happened at tlie Cape Avhilst I was there, occurred
in a Malay, who, on being refused leave by his master to go
out to a festival or merry-making with his felloAvs, took a
knife and stabbed him to the heart, then went to his mis
tress in the adjoining room, and committed on her the
same barbarous and inhuman act. An old Malabar slave
who Avas cutting Avood before the door, having observed
him perpetrate these horrid murders, watched the oppor
tunity as he was rushing out of the door, and striking him
on the head with the axe, Avith which he was cleaving the
wood, killed him on the spot. The government Avas gene
rous enough to reward the Malabar with his liberty, and

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 291
one hundred dollars. The Malays are certainly a most
active and laborious race, do a great deal of Avork, and of
every kind ; equally useful in tilling and cultivating the
ground, as at those works which require mechanical dex
terity. Very few Hottentots are slaves in proportion to the other Hottentot
slaves.
races. By an ancient law of the government at the Cape,
the Hottentots were exempted from slavery, as being the
original possessors of this Country ; but the Dutch in many
instances have contrived to evade this laAV by some means
or other, and to lay hold of the children of those Hot
tentots in their Service, though the parents are free.
All children born of a slave woman, though got by a
white man, even by themselves, become slaves. It thus
often happens, that the master has his own child a slave,
and if the parent and master dies without its being en
franchised, then it is sold by the heirs or executors to
some other master, if not kept as a slave in the surviving
family. The Dutch ladies have no reluctance to their slaA^e girls
having connection with their guests, in hopes of profiting
by it, by their' being got with child. I myself knoAV in
stances Avhere they have been ordered to wait on such a
gentleman to his bed room ; what followed does not require
to be mentioned. One of my friends, whose veracity I have
not the least doubt of, assured me that a very engaging
slave girl, to whom he paid his addresses, and who seemed
exceedingly coy and reserved, was one night pushed into
p p 2

292 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
his room by the mistress of the house, who kicked the door
and left her Avith him.
Treatment of The treatment of the different classes of slaves at the
the slaves by
the Dutch. Cape is by no means the same. The domestic slaves at
Cape Toavii live equally happy as our own servants, and only
retain the name of slaves. Few or none of them would even
Avish a release from this bondage, except a pretty TaAvny
or Mulatto young Avoman, who may haAre offers of marriage
from one of the inferior order of Dutchmen, or an oppor
tunity to go to Europe, to Avait on a lady or her children
on the passage. From eight hundred to a thousand rix-
dollars and upwards, are often asked for them in that case.
Far different is the case of the poor Negro, Caffree, and
African skives, Avho are employed at hard labour, and out
of their houses ; but I must say of the people of Cape
ToAvn, that they universally treat them AA^ell in comparison
to the farmers and planters of the country parts. The poor
creatures in the service of the latter, are obliged to Avork
early and late, and go through a great deal of fatigue and
bodily labour in the management and attendance of the
farms. They are A'ery indifferently fed and clothed ;
though they might get abundance at a very trifling ex-
pence to their masters, amidst so much Avaste of offal,
vegetables, and milk, Avhich are often throAvn aAvay. Black
bread, half sand, and the offal of sheep and oxen, are their
general fare. With respect to the punishing and chastising
of slaves, those unfortunate creatures belonging to the coun
try Dutch ate at the mercy of their lords and masters,

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 293
and are often beaten most unmercifully for the slightest fault.
With the greatest sang-froid imaginable, one of those haughty
boors sits smoking his pipe, and beholding his unfortunate
slave undergoing the lash. If it is a very heinous offence, it
requires more pipes than one to see it out ; for it is really
the case Avith the farmers and planters that the punish
ment they inflict on their slaves is measured by the time
they take to smoke so many pipes. If it is a small offence,
they give him one pipe, and he is never taken doAvn till
that pipe is smoked out.
A regulation is laid doAvn at Cape Toavii with respect to Regulation
• i r i tt i concerning
the punishment ot the slaves. Here the master cannot the slaves.
domineer over or punish his slave unmercifully at his own will
or through caprice ; a slight discipline Avith a small cane,
being all he can take upon himself to inflict. If a slave
commits a crime of any magnitude, he is sent to the po
lice, and it comes under the cognizance of a certain person
appointed by the government to superintend the slaves'
conduct. He is sent to tbe Tronk, or prison, and put to
hard Avork for a certain time; and, excepting it is a cri
minal matter, Avhich requires the life or perpetual impri
sonment of the offender, he is sent back to his master
after a few months of imprisonment, hard labour, and a
certain portion of bodily chastisement.
The fear of the prison keeps the slaves in good order at
Cape Town, and but few instances happen Avhere they com
mit great offences, or require such severe punishment.
This regulation should certainly be extended to the coun-
3

294

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

try parts, and that severe and unmerciful treatment they
inflict on their Avretched slaves be prohibited by law.
Vices of the All tlie blacks and slaves of every nation here have an
slaves ,- their
passion for extravagant passion for gaming, particularly for card play
ing and cock-fighting, in which they are well-skilled and
Extravagant reckoned great adepts. To so great a pitch do they carry
passion for , - . .
cock-fight- the love ot cock-fighting, that in every street you see num-
in it *
hers of black slaves with cocks under their arms ready to
pit against any other that offers. They take post in some.
corner or other for a Avhole day, Avhenever theyr can find an
opportunity to slip from their master's business, watching
the appearance of some rival to contend with them.
and gaming. Iii every bye street, or retired corner of the squares and
areas, even in the sands of the outlets or environs of Cape
Town, are seen groups of slaves playing at cards, and en
joying themselves. This temporary alleviation from their me
lancholy state of bondage, if it was not abused, might be
alloAved and indulged ; but the consequences which arise from
the passion for gaming bring many evils, and it is often their
OAvn destruction, as they will frequently rob their masters
to gratify it, and even murder themselves when they lose all.
The police of the town, whenever they find the slaves em
ployed in this way, are sure to take them up and punish
them severely. The Malays carry the passion for gaming,
and particularly for cock-fighting, much farther than any of
the others. Their breed of cocks are remarkably fine, and they
are as much attached to them as we are to our most favourite
race horses. My reader may smile at the comparison of a

Bad conse
quences.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 295
race horse and a game cock, but the Malays in the East-
Indies prize their cocks above any other consideration, nor
will any money make them part with a good and well-
trained cock. Amongst some of their princes from one hun
dred to a thousand dollars has scarcely been thought equi
valent to the value of one of those birds.
The overplus of the fuel procured by the slaves, in the Empioy-
t i <• i . , i ments of th&
manner 1 haAre before described, is sent to market and dis- slaves.
posed of, Avhich brings into the masters no inconsiderable
sum in the course of a year. A small cart load of this
brush-wood or fuel will cost from six to eight or ten rix-
dollars. Fortunately this necessary article of life requires to
be used only in the kitchens for cooking, washing, &c. the
climate at the Cape being so mild that no fires are in
general required in the dining or sitting rooms. Sometimes
in the winter season, when the weather is uncommonly wet
and damp, stoves are made use of.
Tlie Dutch, after the arrival of the English in such num- Fuel very
bers, raised the price of fuel, and indeed all the labour of their
slaves, so exorbitantly high as often to occasion temporary
distress to many individuals. None felt it so much as those
English residents not belonging to the military establishment,
who from having families, or from various reasons, Avere
obliged to keep houses themselves instead of boarding with
the Dutch, and therefore were obliged to supply themselves
with every article of living. Lodgings and houses Avere also
excessively dear ; however I must do the Dutch tbe justice
fco say, their charges are not singular in this respect ; many
5

scarce.

290 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
parts of my own country are equally extravagant and un
conscientious in their demands from military men.
The scarcity of fuel is an evil severely felt at Cape Town,
and it will daily increase except the toAvn shall come to be
liberally and extensiArely supplied from the interior by means
of vessels bringing it from the different bays along the coast.
Every year the few remaining shrubs and stunted trees round
Cape Town will be diminished till no farther resource Avill
be left from them ; and to obviate this approaching evil the
government should seriously adopt proper measures. No coal
is used here, none being ever brought from Europe, nor
have any coal mines been eA'er properly sought after by the
Dutch. I have already mentioned the attempt to discoArer
a vein Avhile Lord Macartney, was GoA'-ernor; but after going
to a great deal of trouble and expense, the project died
away. This Avas perhaps owing to Lord Macartney quitting
the Cape soon after, and to its not being found to answer
the expense, there being no regular mines or persons pro
perly acquainted Avith this art to turn it to any advantage.
It Avas thought at the Cape the idea was too soon given
up, that the quality of the coal was not properly ascertained,
that part tried being too near the earth, and too much in
corporated with stone and a hard sandy stratum ; at any rate
I should imagine it might ansAver the purposes which they
require here of fuel for kitchens, and the use of their slaves.
The disposi- To sum up the characters of the different slaves is to give
manners of that of their several nations. I shall therefore sum them up
summed in a few lines. The Caffree negro, and different races of
up.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. ZQf
Buganese and Ethiopians, are given to vicious habits. Morose,
sulky, and obstinate, but without having recourse to vindic
tive or sanguinary measures of revenge against their masters ;
requiring coercive measures to oblige them to labour, and
avoiding it whenever an opportunity offers. The Asiatics of
the Moor and Malabar race are humble, submissiAre, willing
to do Avhatever lies in their power, fearful of offending and
grateful for favours, seldom trespassing on indulgence ; their
masters' interests they consider as their own, and are highly
attached to his children, and seem to have no wish beyond
the state in which they are placed by fortune. The Malay
character is that of implacable and blood-thirsty revenge ;
they undauntedly endure their masters' reproaches and blows,
meditating all the while a severe and sanguinary revenge.
With the same firmness they go to the place of execution,
and Avhilst life is in them never regret the atrocious deed
which brings them to an untimely end. Instances of mur
der have too frequently been committed by those people.
The Dutch executed them by the greatest torments ; and
broke them on the rack and wheel. In cases where a clear
evidence was not obtained of the fact committed, their court
of justice extorted it by inflicting tortures like the court of
inquisition in Spain and Portugal. Those laws, and this
mode of execution, have been abolished by the English, and
the criminal executed by hanging. It has been often ob
served that fewer instances happened of those murders being
committed by the slaves, and fewer executions took place,
during the time that we had possession of the Cape, than
Qq

298 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
in any one period of the same length under the Dutch go
vernment, by one to five ; so that the cruel tortures Avhich
the Dutch inflicted were far from restraining the perpetra
tion of crimes.
Runaway Those unhappy slaves who had the misfortune of belong-
ing to a cruel and tyranical master, often took an oppor
tunity of deserting to the interior, or the hills in the neigh
bourhood of the town, where they lay concealed all day in
holes or caverns, from whence they issued out at night to the
suburbs and purlieus to receive provisions, and other ne
cessaries from their friends with whom they kept up a secret
correspondence ; and not unfrequently attacked retired farm
houses to support themselves. Now and then instances have
occurred of their way-laying and robbing passengers, and peo
ple whom curiosity induced to wander about the neighbour
ing hills.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 299

CHAPTER XVI.
Dispositions and Conduct of the Dutch to the English — Various
Mixture and Medley qf People meeting every Day together
under the same Roof— Conduct of the English towards the
Dutch — Advantages extended towards the Inhabitants of the
Cape by our Government — Allowed all their Laws and
Privileges in their fullest Extent — Generous Conduct of
General Craig towards them; the great Benefit they de
rived from our living amongst them ; still they were ex
tremely averse to the English — Unfortunate Situation of
Holland and the Cape by the Introduction of French Prin
ciples amongst them — Jacobinism nearly overwhelming the
Cape, its dreadful Consequences averted by the Appear
ance of the English in 1795 — Obliged to unite to oppose
the English — Mortification and Chagrin at being conquered
by so few and raw Troops- — The civil and military Go
vernment at the Cape — Governor and Council — Fiscal or
Deputy Governor — His great Poiver and Privileges — Mar
tial Law existed some time after the Conquest — Police
— Active in the v internal Regulation of the Town — Laws
and Regulations required by the Inhabitants — Restrictions
on the Hottentots — Traffic with them only allowed to be
carried on with the Government People — Military Establish
ment — Not sufficient for its Defence — Bad and impolitic
Construction of their Towns and Ports — Description of the
q Q 2

300 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
People of the Cape — Bad Effects of their narroiv Policy
and Conduct — Revenue — Exports and Imports — Little Trade
or Speculation — Government poor and needy — Observations
respecting it — That qf the English contrasted with it —
Dutch lost all their Settlements in Asia but Batavia —
Expeditions planned against that, in 179§ and 1800 —
Precarious State of the Cape during a War with Eng
land — Hospitals for sick Sailors and Soldiers — Tlie Cape
healthy — Regulations respecting sick and diseased Persons-
Revenue of the Dutch East-India Company — Their Taxes
and Imposts — Trade and Commerce — Taxes on Cattle, Pro
visions Slaves, &c. — Amount of Receipts — Expenditure far
greater than Revenue — The Pay of the Civil and Military
of every Denomination — View of the Establishment of the
British.
i\S I have observed in a former page there Avere no inns
or public taverns kept by the Dutch, except low drink
ing liouses, which only the loAvest order of themselves, or
the soldiers and sailors frequented. Whilst England Avas at
peace Avith Holland, the Cape was visited by a number of
our countrymen at different periods, on their passage to
Dispositions and from India, who lived in the houses of the inhabitants,
and conduct -1-1111 •
of the Dutch and, as I have obsen^ed, became inmates and as it were a
towards the _r
English. part of their families. Yet notwithstanding this very close
intercourse, the men have been always exceedingly averse
to associating with the English ; and have uniformly pre
ferred the company of other foreigners before ours ; though
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 301
from interested motives they chose rather the English to
reside with them. I cannot assign any reasonable motive for
this disposition, except it proceeded from a national aversion
and from envy towards the British nation. The inhabitants
at the Cape, although the chief part of their income arises
from their intercourse with foreigners of all nations, and
particularly with ours, yet they never applied themselves
to learn the language of other countries. This is the more
to be Avondered at, as they are Avell-known to be indefati
gable in every thing which concerns trade. Since the Eno--
lish took possession of the Cape several of their young
women picked up our language very fast, and latterly began
to converse with our countrymen pretty fluently ; and when
amongst themselves spoke it to each other, as they began
to find their OAvn too harsh, and not so accordant to fe
male softness as ours.
As the Cape has for such a great number of years been Remarks on
the half-Avay house on a voyage to India, and the passen- of^To'Jeof
gers living at their tables and in their domestic circles, a meetfnghere.
strange mixture of characters and dispositions must often
be associated together. A person of quick conception and
some genius, may often have an opportunity of observing
the strangest medley of characters, and of remarking the
various effects of wealth, climate, rank, and other accidental
circumstances. Tliere is room for the pencil of a Hogarth
to delineate the various characters and dispositions Avhich
are to be met Avith at the Avell-filled table of a Dutchman
at the Cape of Good Hope. Both passengers and hosts have

302

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Conduct of
the British
towardsthem.

every opportunity of obtaining a knowledge of the marked
characteristics and traits of each other. The Dutch Avho
are well acquainted with the English, hesitate not to ac-
knoAvledge them to be .liberal and truly honourable in their
dealings, paying in a princely manner for their entertain
ment, and far from giving them cause to repent their in
troducing them into their houses, and amongst their fami
lies. They ha\Te ever had a greater reliance on o.ur honour
able and proper behaviour than that of their present friends
and allies the French, Avliose gallantries and intrigues Avith
married Avomen have often been attempted to be put in
practice whilst under the roofs of their Dutch hosts. I
have frequently heard several respectable Dutch gentlemen,
execrate the officers of the Luxemburg, and other French
regiments, which composed part of their garrisons some
years back, and I am sure they Avill regret their ever again
being introduced at the Cape.
Since the English came it is well knoAvn to every nation,
and acknowledged by those of the Dutch themselves, who
have liberality and candour to own it, that we nave done
them and their colony every justice. I do not speak from
partiality toAvards my own countrymen Avhen I aver this : I
only state the most positive mid certain facts, Avhich many
of their most respectable and well-informed colonists frankly
confessed. Our government never imposed neAv taxes on
them, they rather diminished than increased their burthens,
and lightened the loads of oppression they laboured under
before we arrived. Every Dutchman of every description,
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 303
.both high and Ioav, gained by our residence amongst them. Justice done
. to every de-
I he demand aud value of all their productions greatly in- scription of
1 • mi -i i people at the
creased on our arrival. Their prices were never curtailed Cape.
or disputed, but punctually paid. Arrears of rent and
taxes, to a very considerable amount, clue by many indivi
duals to their government, had been remitted to them by
the British government on pleading distress or inability,
while their oavh rulers Avould on no account abate one
dollar due from any of them. Even debts of a long Advantages
• f -ii extended to-
standmg, particularly those of a contestible nature, Avere wards the
n mi -r* • ¦ i ii people of the
,by us totally given up. 1 he British granted them the Cape by our
enjoyment of their laws and religion in their fullest extent.
They enjoyed under us a greater share of true liberty than
even they did under their own government. Their pro
perty was secured to them, and the British faith pledged
to them ; for; its [preservation, with all the .accompanying
privileges. It encreased while we held possession of the Allowed ail
Cape, to more than double its value. Every Dutchman pos- ieges.pn
sessed of a house in Cape Town, got three times the rent
for. it be ever did before ; if he sold or disposed of it to
any of our countrymen, the, price he received for it Avas in
a still higher proportion.
Tbe paper-money which was issued by the Dutch govern
ment some years previous to the capture of the Cape, to
relieve the pressing exigencies of the state, had been greatly
depreciated, on account of the inability of government to
recal it, or to give any adequate security to the holders.
The idea of its not being received by us in our dealings

304 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
with them, still further increased this depreciation after
the capture ; and the Dutch began to hoard up what
ever gold or silver came into their possession, Avith the
utmost avidity.
Generous The distress consequent on this situation of affairs was
conduct of
General obviated in a truly liberal and generous manner, by Gene-
Craigontak- J ° J
ing the Cape, ral Craig, who ordered that the paper-money should pass
in the colony, and amongst the British, in the same man
ner, and bearing the same value as formerly ; and, to re
lieve the embarrassment occasioned by the want of coin, a
very considerable quantity of silver dollars was sent from
England and the East-Indies to the Cape, and put into
circulation. By this means neAV spirit was given to their
trade, which had been almost completely put to a stand
from a Avant of specie.
The Dutch by their eagerness to obtain hard money for
their merchandise, and in all their transactions, were the
•first to depreciate the credit of their OAvn government.
TAvelve paper rix-dollars have been known to be given for
jone guinea; a sum equal to two pounds eight shillings of
their money, and equivalent to about one pound sixteen
.of ours. This indeed is not to be wondered at, Avhen we
consider that the paper-money would only pass at the Cape,
and that the Dutch knew it would not be taken by the
ships of different nations trading here, in exchange for
goods. Those adA'antages I have already related, as Avell as
many others, tending to promote the interests of the Dutch
colonists were bestowed on them by their conquerors. 9 .

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 3Q5
The Dutch farmers and planters in the interior and re- Great bene-
f fits the far-
mote parts of the colony felt the advantages ot our govern- mers of the
ment, and greAV rich under it, by the high prices they rimi from"
got for their cattle and the different produces of their
farms ; Avhich Avere sent to Cape ToAvn for the consumption
and use of the British navy and army. A sheep which before
our arrival was sold to their own countrymen for one rix-
dollar, Avas noAV disposed of for tAvo and a half or three ;
and horses, oxen, and grain in proportion. I have been
lately informed by some of our officers, who were amongst
the last who evacuated the Cape, that the very day the
Dutch troops arrived from Holland, they loAvered the price
of every thing to the same rate it usually was before we
captured the place.
When an Englishman considers what I have here ad
vanced, he will no doubt be surprised at the aversion, and
indeed hatred, Avhich the Dutch seem to have entertained
towards us.
The people of Cape Town had far less reason to enter- still they en-
tain those sentiments towards us, than any other conquered favourable"11"
people whatever ; yet certain circumstances concurred to towardTus.
produce in them a particular dislike to our countrymen.
It is Avell known that a total dissimilarity of manners insomemea-
exists between the Dutch and English ; and where this is ed for. °
the case a long intercourse is necessary to produce any reci
procal attachment. What is hoAvever a still more poAver-
ful circumstance, the people of Holland look Avith a jaun
diced eye upon every nation their rival in Avealth and com-
lin

306 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
merce. In the late war with Holland we shut up their
ports, and almost annihilated their trade ; and it is that
Avhich particularly leads them to behold us Avith such
marked dislike. Yet though their trade was lost, and their
consequence as a mercantile nation destroyed in the United
States of Holland, it did not affect the inhabitants of the
Cape. The advantages that the people here derived from
our being amongst them were infinitely greater than the
scanty and partial dealings they could have had with the
few ships from Holland, which touched at their ports.
Besides, the English Government did not prevent them
from undertaking mercantile speculations, or from traf
ficking and bartering Avith us ; but rather assisted and
encouraged them. They felt none of the disadvantages
which hung over the mother country by her connexion
Avith France. Not one instance of oppression -was commit
ted by the English during the time they remained in pos
session of the colony.
If any thing can be said in extenuation of the illiberal
conduct of the colonists toAvards the English, it is by al-
loAving that there is a reluctance which a conquered people
naturally feel toAvards those who haAre subjected them; and
that the former cannot avoid looking upon themselves as
degraded, and consequently hating those Avho have caused
their degradation. Yet what Avould their situation have
been at the Cape if the British forces had not arrived at
tlie time they did ; a period truly critical, and teeming
with tragical eArents. The sanguinary principles of Marat

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 307
and Robespierre, were by that time not only soAvn, but groAV-
ing to maturity amongst them. Jacobinism was ready to
involve the colony in destruction, and the cloud was on the
eve of bursting when Ave appeared.
• The Cape Town was on the point of having all the hor- Dangers to
. ., . . the eolony
rors of civil Avar carried on in the midst of it. 1 hose re- from French
it • • 1 i i • /• i i iii principles.
publican principles had infected numbers, and the slaves Avere
to be made actors in the scene by the promise of freedom.
A strong party of the most violent jacobins, and furious re
publicans had been formed, and every moderate man or any
one who expressed a dislike of those violent measures which
actuated tlie French, or seemed attached to the party of
the Prince of Orange, was denounced. The tumult Avas on
the eve of breaking out both in the town and country, and
the government was utterly unable to resist its baneful ef
fects, on the contrary it was in many instances insulted Avith
impunity ; and its members themselves proscribed who were
not already linked Avith the democrats. The soldiers were
in a state of insubordination and licentiousness, the conse
quence of those principles of liberty and equality which
had spread here, as well as at the Isle of France and Bour
bon. A total emancipation of the slaves Avas to have taken
place, and they let loose against their masters ; such a
scene Avould have been dreadful, and all the virtuous in
habitants already trembled for their safety. But when these Civil war
averted by
Jacobins were on the point of throwing off the old form of our arrival.
government, and assimilating the new one to that of France,
the English arrived to the secret joy of the most respect-
R R2

308 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
able inhabitants, Avho in them beheld their deliverance- at
hand and their property secured. Some gentlemen informed
me Avhilst at the Cape, that they did not expect to receive
any mercy from their oavii countrymen, but Avere truly con
fident the English would act generously by them. Those
gentlemen Avho had nothing to fear or to apprehend beyond
Avhat is alloAved by the rules of war between civilized nations,
quietly remained with their effects in- the town, Avhilst many
of the others fled into the country amongst the haughty and
turbulent boors, there to regret the miscarriage of their base
designs, to vent their spleen and chagrin in greater safety,
and hatch neAv plots against us. As soon as it Avas knoAvn
that our troops had disembarked at Simon's Town, the dis
contented for the present laid by the designs they had
formed, and began to prepare for their defence. Accordingly
they assembled from all parts Avithin several miles of Cape
ToAvn, and marched to Musenberg, Avhere, as I have already
related, they saAv Avith shame and mortification the British
troops their conquerors, though far inferior in point of
numbers. The Dutch lurve often expressed their chagrin at this,
and made many pointed observations ultimately reflecting
on themselves. The troops Avhich composed the force under
General Craig, Avhen he attacked the strong post of Musen
berg, Avere neAv raised battalions, many of them young boys
but lately accustomed to discipline and military habits. Not
a fourth part of either officers or men had seen any ser
vice before they came to the Cape, but they amply made
4

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 309
up for the Avant of experience by the quickness Avith which
they attained discipline, by that brave and gallant spirit
which is the boast and characteristic of our countrymen, by a
strict and steady conduct, and by vieing Avith each other
in a willing and ready obedience to their officers.
On the arrival of the 19th, 33d, and 80th regiments at
Cape ToAvn, sometime after its capture, the Dutch beheld
their entrance Avith admiration at their excellent appearance,
as these v regiments Avere composed of remarkably fine men
in the highest state of discipline. Their Dutch pride Avas
the more severely mortified and loAvered at the idea of
being conquered by neAv raised regiments. If, said they,
Ave had been defeated by those regiments composed of old
and veteran soldiers, we should feel it less ; but to alloAV our
selves to be overthrown by a handful of raw young men
and boys, not half our number ! Many held doAvn their
heads abashed and walked off the parade, Avhen they first
came to see the troops Avho had conquered them. Many The Dutch
... . did not ex-
of those Dutchmen, far from expressing their gratitude at press any
, i<-i-ii -ii i- gratitude at
being rescued from the evils that Avere suspended over their their fortu-
heads by their rebellious and unprincipled countrymen, joined
afterwards in execrating the English government, and the
British subjects who came amongst them. Some of those Avere
so turbulent and so troublesome, that they Avere obliged to
be sent out of the colony, and General Craig, as Avell as
the Governors avIio succeeded him, was often under the
necessity of sending a military force up the country to re
duce to order the rebellious boors, avIio though not abso-

310 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
lutely breaking out into open Avar, were exceedingly averse
to our gOA^ernment, and inimical to its peace and security*
and much trouble Avas occasioned at different periods before
they could be brought to proper obedience. Latterly they
only vented themselves in spleen and impotent invectives,
taking every opportunity to testify their hatred of us by
Avords. Such then, as I have in those latter pages delineated,
are the general outlines of the characters, the dispositions,
the manners, and habits of life of the people who compose
the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. I have, as far as
my observation Aveut, endeavoured to leave no remarkable
feature of their characters undisplayed.
Hope of their A longer acquaintance hoAvever with the English as a
becoming more liberal nation as Avell as individually, and their experience of the
in their sen- . _
timents to- lenient and mild government exercised by us, together with
English na- the ill consequences which French principles and alliances
have introduced into the republic of Holland, and which
iioav many begin to see in a proper light, may greatly tend
to do aAvay their former prejudices against our country.
This may also be not a little assisted by the long residence
of British officers in so many of their liouses, whose uni
versal gentlemanly and honourable conduct they could not
help acknowledging and admiring. Add to this, that many
marriages had taken place betAveen the British officers Avhilst
quartered here and the Dutch ladies. Their daughters being
married to Englishmen forms another link Avhich should bind
them, if not to our interest as a nation at any rate to look
3

Uon.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 311
with more regard on our countrymen as individuals. I haAre
the pleasure of being acquainted Avith many of the Dutch
ladies married to British officers, and I must say they are
truly amiable and accomplished, every Avay Avorthy of their
husbands5' choice, and if not possessed of a great share of
wealth have every virtue and qualification requisite to render
the marriage state happy.
I shall noAV beg leave shortly to advert to their civil The civil
and military
and military gOA'ernment, their revenue, and public eco- government.
no my ; ,and also point out some of their laAVS to sheAv the
spirit by Avhich the government Avas actuated. The Gover
nor, sent out from Holland to the Cape of Good Hope,
Avas under the controul and authority of that of Batavia,
which last ranked the first of all their possessions on that
side of the globe- Amboyna, on account of the value of
its spices, and the great revenue it brought them, Avas
considered the second ; the Cape of Good Hope ranked
only as the fourth or fifth. The GoA^ernors of Batavia had
often the poAver of sending a Governor to the Cape, and it
had frequently happened that the proud and poAverful Go
vernors of Batavia displaced those of the Cape, and sent
others in their room. The civil government at Cape Governorand counsel.
ToAvn, of Avhich the Governor is the supreme head, is
composed of a president and twelve of the oldest burghers,
who try all criminal causes and give their verdict, leaving
the passing of the sentence to the Governor, from Avhoin
there is no appeal. In civil law suits, Avhere property to
any amount is in dispute, appeals have been often made to

powers.

312 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
the High Chamber at Batavia; but this step has seldom
gained a second hearing of the cause, and in all probabi-
Fiscai oi-De- hty the party has reason to repent his temerity. The fiscal
puty Gover
nor, is mostly president of this court of justice ; he is entrusted
with great poAvers, and is little inferior to the Governor.
The fiscal unites in his own person the three distinct branches
of government, the legislative, the judicial, and the execu
tive. So great was his authority in regard to the manage
ment of the revenue, that he could impose and levy taxes
both for the use of government and for his oavii ; and in
the absence of a Governor the fiscal took upon himself the
His great supreme authority. The poAver of the fiscal had ahvays been
unlimited, and Avas too often found uncontroulable by the
Governors. They could dispense with laws, create neAv
crimes, and compound for those of all denominations; and
in general might be said to dispose of the lives and for
tunes of the people. There was indeed a controuling poAver
paramount to his high authority, but few dared appeal to
that tribunal.
These unlimited powers were of course done away on
the English taking possession of the Cape. The power of
life and death, and the decision and execution of any
sentence, were taken from the fiscal, and placed Avhere
they ought to be, and he Avas reduced to act in that
particular station, for Avhich his office was originally in
tended, namely, that of taking cognizance of all petty of
fences and lesser civil causes, and deciding on them ; of
being a member only of the court of justice, and not a

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 31 3
dictator. He now superintended the police, and the internal
government of the town with its economy. Under him was
placed a head constable, with a body of police officers taken
from among the inhabitants, for the purpose of keeping good
order and tranquillity amongst the colonists of the town, of
quelling riots and tumults which might happen amongst
drunken or disorderly persons and the slaves, for bringing
them to justice, and administering punishments for all crimes
not of a very heinous nature, and which did not affect the
life of the transgressor. For some time after the British
took possession of Cape Town it was placed under martial
law ; the decision of life and death was then in the hands
of the Commander in Chief, and all criminals were executed
by the sanction of the General under the eye of the Provost
Martial, who superintended all executions. When Lord
Macartney came out as Governor, the civil law again took
its course, and adjudged sentences of death which, if ap
proved of by our Governor, were put in execution by the
proper civil officers. A Provost Martial was still retained
but he only interfered in military crimes. During the time
the government was under martial law the court of justice
did not sit, but the fiscal executed those secondary duties
of his office, and the constable and police were under the
direction of the Provost Martial.
The Dutch were always exceedingly careful and active in The police of
preserving the tranquillity of the town, in preventing drunken tiveT
sailors from rioting, and the slaves from assembling in any
numbers, or causing any tumults that might endanger the
S s

314 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
safety of the colony. They also paid great attention to
the cleanliness of the town, causing all nuisances in the
streets to be removed. Whilst I was at the Cape great in
conveniences were felt by many of the inhabitants, but par
ticularly by the British, who had families and houses of
their OAvn, from the want of proper attention and regula
tions with respect to the markets and prices of provisions
and other articles of consumption. This did not so much
affect the, Dutch as our oavii people, the former having
most of those resources Avithin themselves ; while the Bri
tish were obliged to purchase every thing in the market,
and the prices charged to them were exorbitantly high. A
few partial regulations Avere now and then made by our
government, but not such as to produce any great effect.
Laws and re- Some years ago all the housekeepers were obliged to
gulations. give an account to the Fiscal every evening, of the num
ber of people entertained under their roof, on pain of a
very heavy penalty. This law was made almost from their
first settling here, and the spirit of it arose from an idea
of discouraging the introduction of strangers ; but latterly,
since the Cape has been made so much the half-way house
to India, though this law Avas not repealed, it was not put
in force. The government saw that by the admission of
strangers as temporary guests and visitors, a great deal of
hard money was necessarily left in the settlement ; and was
a principal means of enriching many of the inhabitants.
They required every person going into the interior to have
a passport, for which he paid a trifling sum. In this was

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 315
set down the number of slaves he carried Avith him, and
on his return he was obliged to wait on the Fiscal to pre
sent himself, and account for the people he had taken with
him. No Hottentot whatever was allowed to keep horses, nor Restriction*
on the Hot-
COuld any of the farmers or planters of the interior sell tentots ; and
no traffic al-
to them under penalty of being severely fined.. However lowed them,
1 but with go-
this law was often evaded, like many others of the same vernment.
kind. No Christian was allowed to buy or sell with the
Hottentots without a licence from government, for which
he paid handsomely. The officers and people belonging
to the government wished to have this traffic entirely to
themselves, and from this source they derived great profit.
A piece of cloth, some tobacco, old iron, or toys of no
intrinsic value, purchased large numbers of cattle. A
factor employed ^by government went into the interior once
or twice a year, to carry on this trade with the Hotten
tots; and some thousand head of cattle Avere annually
brought to Cape Town, for government to dispose of them
as they thought fit. The Dutch appointed chiefs ; or, as
they stiled them, captains, over different hordes ; for col
lecting cattle for them, and hunting deer and game. Wild
beasts of various kinds were also brought to them, by those
Hottentot captains ; and ostrich feathers, elephants' teeth,
skins, oil, and such like commodities. They were likewise
employed in bringing back deserters and runaway slaves,
for whose recovery a good portion of tobacco, spirits, and
iron was paid. s s 2

316 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Military es- With respect to their military establishment, the situa-
tablishments . . . . ,
not sufficient tion m which the colony had been left for some years past,
fence of the had been very poor indeed. Dear bought experience has
shewn them Iioav insufficient it was to resist an enemy. To
their cost it has been proved to them, tljat it could be at
tacked with success by a number even inferior to its own
Bad con- garrison. Notwithstanding the natural strength off its' shores
struction of # ° ° '*. ,
their towns and the surrounding country, yet the manner '• in which
and posts. '
those were fortified with the position and construction of
their toAvns rendered them untenable and easily conquered.
Their garrison was by far too weak to occupy and defend
the chain of posts they had along the southern peninsula,
ivith any reasonable prospect of success. Their country
militia, the farmers, Avere too much scattered to render ef
fectual service', and the toAvns' people were far from disco
vering prowess against an opposing enemy. They did not
indeed appear to be acquainted with that energy and patrio
tic spirit, of Avhich mankind ought to be susceptible Avhen
endeavouring to defend their independence, their property,
and their government.
The Dutch colonists of the Cape of Good Hope are
neither a Avarlike nor a hardy race ; and are ill-calculated
for active service, or where the endurance of hardship is
required.
Revenue, ex- Having said thus much of the military establishments of
fmportsnd the Cape, I shall now advert to its revenue, its exports
and imports ; the taxes which contributed to maintain the
colony, the receipts they brought into the treasury, and the

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 317
expenditure necessary for keeping up its different establish
ments. I shall commence at a period some time before it
had been captured by us, as many alterations and changes
necessarily took place by their being under a new govern
ment. It may seem difficult to account for the poor state ,
of tins colony, which altogether comprizes an immense
tract of territory, without being subject to predatory Avar-
fare, to inroads and incursions from the aboriginal inhabi
tants, or insurrections among the people inhabiting it. I
cannot lay any stress on the few trifling and partial hosti
lities and animosities which existed between the Caffrees
and the few hordes of independant Hottentots and the
boors, as little general damage arose from this cause. The
mischief usually amounted only to a few hundred head of
cattle being now and then plundered from the boors in the
very remote parts ; and the various contests may be com
pared more to those of a bandi tti, or wandering set of thieves,
than to one nation at war with another. When these hap
pened the Dutch were sure of gaining from the unfor
tunate natives three fold what they lost.
Hitherto no commercial speculation of any extent had Little trade
been attempted by the Dutch ; scarcely any thing above tion at the"
what was necessary for home consumption. The receipts Government
of the government, and their East-India Company, were needy!"
by no means equal to the expenditure. The heavy ex-
pences and bad management of individuals belonging to the
government, added considerably to the poverty and grievances
of the Cape. They were often out near one hundred and fifty
9

318 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
thousand dollars annually, over and above all the sums derived
from its own resources. It was in these circumstances a
matter of doubt whether it was worth this expence to the
mother country, for the advantages it presented in provi
sioning her ships with water, meat, wine, fuel ; and in re
covering and refreshing the crews. This is in fact almost
the Avhole benefit the Hollanders derived from the Cape.
A few observations will tend to sheAv how different the
case Avould be, Avere England to have it in her hands.
Observations The trade of Holland since the first commencement of
thTdifferent the war with England, has been greatly crushed, and but
of"heqcapTS little left her. This must ever be the case as long as we
handVofthe retain so superior a naval force, and which now considering
English? the temper of the times, and the dispositions of foreign
states, Ave must do either in peace or Avar. The Hollanders
haAre, by their Avar with us and by their coalition Avith our
designing foe, lost their trade, their foreign settlements and
resources ; which even their boasting friends and allies, the
French, could not save or secure to the republic of Hol
land. In those circumstances the possession of the Cape
must be an incumbrance, a dead weight upon their hands,
which they can now ill bear. No trade with Asia to em
ploy their ships, and cause this settlement to be of advan-
tage to them, in affording protection and relief to their ves-
Expeditions sels. What they derive from Batavia is now but small.
against Bata- This settlement was near falling into our hands last war;
an armament Avas tAvice fitted out against it, and the success
of it little doubted — it was only saved to them by particular

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 319
circumstances. The first armament was withheld in con
sequence of our Avar against Tippoo Saib. The second
equipment, destined in 1800 against Batavia, was placed
under the direction of Colonel Champagne, of the 80th
regiment, an officer of distinguished ability ; whose long and
meritorious services singled him out as a proper person to
be entrusted with this important command. The Marquis
of Wellesley appointed Colonel Campagne to be Governor
of Batavia, in the event of its being captured, from the
confidence and knowledge he had of his experience and
ability, Avhich the Colonel shewed in his just, excellent, and
wise conduct and administration Avhilst Governor and Com
mander of the island of Ceylon, and the troops there, dur
ing the absence of the Honourable Frederick North.
Had the Dutch lost Batavia, they would have been deprived
of all their settlements in the Asiatic world ; Admiral Rainier
having taken possession, for his Britannic Majesty, of the
Mollucca or Spice Islands, Avhich brought the States of
Holland so much wealth by their valuable productions.
The Cape of Good Hope would have sunk in its conse
quence to them, the Colony itself would have been im
poverished and fallen to decay, and in all probability would
soon have been under the necessity of putting itself under
the protection of Great Britain. Whilst they continue at
war Avith us, feAV of their ships can venture into those seas
without being picked up by our cruizers ; the supplies from
Holland to their settlements here must be scanty and pre
carious. Nothing of any consequence can be imported to

320 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,
or exported from it. The maintenance of an establishment
here Avill add to the burthens of the United States, which
are already too much for them to bear, being loaded with
requisitions upon requisitions by their new allies.
The Dutch The Dutch East-India Company were often imposed on
Company imposed on. considerably in many branches of the establishments, ex
penditures, and receipts of the Cape ; and many of its most
serious and weighty advantages were overlooked. If the go
vernment there had employed active, patriotic, and intelli
gent men, Avho would have acted - honestly and justly in
their different departments, several of its expenditures might
have been diminished, and its receipts increased. Its staple
productions, and resources might easily have been increased
and rendered much more beneficial to the interests of their
government and themselves, and placed in a far more flou
rishing state than that in which we found it in the year
1795.
Hospital for The establishment of their hospital cost the Company
sick seamen .
and soldiers, little or nothing, though it Avas upon a very extensive
scale. The range of buildings which composed it Avas spa
cious and well laid out. It Avas erected betAveen the castle
and the town, opposite their grand parade. This building
was converted into barracks for three regiments by the
English government, avIio removed the hospital very pro
perly some way from the town, close to the shore of Table
Bay. The Cape, while we Avere there, Avas so healthy that
very few indeed of our soldiers and sailors Avere ever at
any one time in it. During Lord Macartney's government

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. '• 321
he found the garrison so very healthy that there was no
occasion for so large an establishment of medical staff as
Avas sent out from England, and he sent a whole troop of
them back again as quite unnecessary, and an useless expense
to the colony.
Whenever any sick men belonging to the Dutch ships
Avere sent ashore to their hospital, the captains of them
Avere" obliged to advance at least fourteen or twenty days
pay Avith each person, and also a certain small sum was
given by eArery one of their vessels which touched here in
order to supply a fund for the payment of the medical de
partment, and other expenses incurred for its support. They
never alloAved those who were under infectious or epidemic
diseases to be brought ashore, particularly those ill of the
small-pox. A great deal of attention was paid to the clean
liness of the hospital and the care of the sick ; and the
hospital was put under the charge of directors Avho reported
ervery week its state to the government.
The India Company reserved a certain portion of lands, Revenue of
and houses around Cape Town for themselves. The gar- pany.
dens known by the name of the Company's Gardens be
longed solely to them. None could buy and sell without
a licence, and a certain tax payed for this privilege. The
farmers were obliged to sell to the Company at fixed prices,
wheat, barley, beans, pease, meat, oxen, wine. For rice,
arrack, . calicoes, cotton, cloth, handkerchiefs, and other In
dian commodities imported, they paid partly in bread, cat
tle, wine, and other produce of the Cape, but as little in
Tt

322

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

hard money as possible. However this traffic Avas neither
Taxes. lucrative nor extensive. Government had five per cent, upon
On shipping, every thing brought into or sent out of the colony. All ships
Avere obliged to pay anchorage money at the rate of so
much per ton. They exacted this, and a certain duty be
sides, from every foreign ship as well as their own, and this
brought them in a good portion of their revenue. In all
transfer of property so much per cent, was paid to govern-
siaves. ment. If one man sold his interest in a house or piece of
ground, he Avas obliged to pay for every slave purchased
ten dollars ; and a capitation tax Avas. laid on every slave
nearly similar to that on servants in England. The farm
ing and tax on Avine amounted to fifty thousand dollars
rrovisions. and upAvards. Meat, cattle, tobacco, sugar, coffee, and
other articles of life, brought about half that sum. Con
tributions and taxes on houses and lands at the Cape,
Houses and amounted to about four thousand. The average tax on
inhabitants. houses of a certain rate belonging to the burghers of Cape
Town, was about eight rix-dollars. They were obliged also
to pay for the privilege of entertaining passengers and tem
porary residents. Residents Avho were not burghers, eman
cipated skwes, servants of the Company, free people of
colour, and blacks Avho were not slaves, avIio had not liouses
of their own, or avIio rented small tenements and rooms,
Avere taxed moderately ; but their employers, or burghers
from whom they rented their habitations, were the ostensi
ble persons on Avhom the payment Avas enforced. They,
as well as the burghers and other inhabitants, Avere obliged

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 323
to bear arms whenever called on. A tenth on income, .whe- income.
ther derived from lands, houses, goods, or ready money, was
paid as a tax to government for the support of the colony.
The different districts of the interior were taxed according Proportion of
the interior.
to the number of its Christian inhabitants and their ability.
Constantia was obliged to furnish a certain proportion of
its wine. Rond-a-bosch, Rothboem, Swartzland, Stellen
bosch, the drosdy of Swellindam, the villages of Paarl,
Drankensteen, False Bay, and Simon's Town, all paid a cer
tain yearly sum to government, or some of their produce in
kind. The amount of what I have stated brought in from Amount of
one hundred and fifty to a hundred and eighty thousand about3 S
rix-dollars annually. The ostensible expenditures, the main- iars.'
tenance and pay of the troops, and the numerous servants ^turemuch
of the Company, exceeded this sum ; that alone of the Go- sreater-
vernor and his clerks being from tAventy-five to thirty thou
sand dollars a year. The Deputy Governor when'there was Various
one had ten thousand ; the Master Intendant fifteen thou- the civil and
sand ; the Chief Intendant of the Town and Council, Avho tabiishment,
was generally the FiscaU for himself and his writers, near
twenty thousand ; the Deputy Fiscal and Second in Coun
cil eight thousand ; the Government officers of all denomi
nations, thirty thousand ; the repairing fortifications and pub
lic works ten thousand ; the charges of the smiths, carpen
ters, ropemakers, and sailors round the bays, for -repairing
vessels, amounted to a considerable sum. The garrison gene
rally consisted of seventeen hundred men, Avhich Avith about
two hundred people mostly soldiers, employed in the Go-
t t 2.

524 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
vernment and Company's work, cutting wood, burning lime,
and attending on Avorks and batteries, Avith a feAV of the
militia and officers attached to the black troops and staff
departments, came to near tAvo hundred thousand dollars
yearly. The pay of the Dutch officers and troops was very
low indeed, and a great portion of it Avas paid in meat and
provisions furnished by government contractors, avIio had cat
tle and other necessaries of life brought to them from the
interior for a moderate sum. The landrosts and land
bailiffs of the different districts, and other inferior offi
cers of the 'country parts, a clergyman or two, and three
government physicians ; all those different establishments
the government here thought it necessary to keep up and
maintain. The above sketch of the receipts of the colony and its
expenditure, which I endeavoured to obtain ' as accurately
and as correctly as I could whilst on the spot, sheAvs that
the Cape Avas a great weight upon the mother country,
Avhich Avas forced to send supplies both from Holland and
Batavia of money, and various other articles.
.Notwithstanding little or no emolument or revenue was
derived by the English from the produces of the Cape be
ing sent to other countries in the way of trade, its main
tenance and establishments did not cost us nearly so much.
View of the Many of those offices to which- such large salaries Avere
ments in the annexed were done away as unnecessary and useless. The
time of the . ' .
British. civil establishment during our government was far inferior
in numbers to what it had been formerly. The garrison

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. X>j
-Ave had here generally consisted of about six regiments of
foot and one of dragoons, which of course added greatly to
the public expense. The Governors, avIio were sent out from'
England, I am confident have been universally alloAved to
haAre put the colony to as little expense as possible, and
to have required only Avhat Avas barely necessary. In the
distribution of its expenses, and filling up of employments
and public offices, the English behaved Avith great genero
sity toAvards the Dutch. Those who Avere found active, M.m of the
useful, and avIio discharged their duty faithfully, Avere re- ^u^f01
tained and employed. Those officers and civilians, Avho were Goter°m
made prisoners on the taking of the Cape, and who did not meut>
chuse to go to Europe, were allowed to •remain here as pri
soners of Avar on their parole, and suffered to retain the
same privileges and adATantages they possessed under their
own government. They were alloAved as prisoners the same
pay as they had on account of their different ranks and
services from the Dutch. Several of them grew rich and
lived comfortably by boarding and lodging the English at
their liouses. One instance of British generosity I must
mention here in the case of a respectable Dutch burgher,
Avhose house accidentally took fire and* Avas burned to the
ground. The British government," and officers of the gar
rison, liberally subscribed and built up another far better,
and more spacious than that which he had lost. • It Avas
at this gentleman's house that I lodged most part of each
period I was at the Cape, and he has often expressed his

326 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
sense of the bounty of the English ; nor could he help say
ing his own countrymen would not have acted so liberally
•toAvards him as we did.

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 327

CHAPTER XVII.
Recapitulation mof the Advantages to be derived by Great-
Britain from the Possession of the Cape of Good Hope —
Conclusion.
IN the preceding narrative of my observations at the Cape
of Good Hope, I have endeavoured to avoid stating any
fact which was not derived either from my OAvn immediate
knowledge, or from such information as I considered to be
indisputably authentic. Many errors may still undoubt
edly be discovered, and my political reasonings found erro
neous by those who are more capable of deciding on the
subject. Since writing the above pages, however, events
have taken place which justify my opinion that the Dutch
government is, in its present state, utterly incapable, not
only of improving, but even of preserving internal tranquil
lity in any of its colonies, although threatened with ho enemy
from without. The rebellious boors of the interior parts of
the colony of the Cape, as soon as they felt themselves re
lieved from their apprehensions of British troops, lost no
time in renewing their insolent opposition to government,
and their usual barbarities towards the unfortunate Hot
tentots and Caffrees. In consequence the whole colony has
been thrown into the utmost confusion, and the inhabitants
placed in a continual state of danger and alarm. The Caf-
9

32 8 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
frees at length, exasperated by continual injuries, have joined
Avith the oppressed Hottentots, and have produced such de
vastation in the interior parts of the colony, that the in
habitants of Cape Town begin to fear their usual supplies
of cattle -will be totally cut off.
In such a state of things it can scarcely b'e doubted that
if a British force were to appear at "the Cape, little or no
opposition Avould or indeed could be made to its taking
possession of the colony. The garrison is too feeble of itself
to maintain a contest, and no support can be expected from
the inhabitants, Avhile a great proportion would hail the ar
rival of their conquerors as their deliverance from the brink
of destruction. But it is not from the facility of the con
quests, nor from fals"e views of aggrandisement by the ex
tension of ¦ territory, that I would point out this colony as
a possession which ought at the present moment to be
Avrested from our enemies. Even the prospect of distant
advantages might be looked upon as insufficient to justify
an extension of territory, which might eventually increase
the burthens of the country, and would at any. rate em
ploy a part- of those forces which are at present so much
required for the defence of our territories at home and
abroad. The situation of the Cape of Good Hope, hoAvever, placed
as it is directly in the middle between the two great divi
sions of the British empire, forces itself upon the attention
of Great Britain, as a possession which would not only con-
contribute to her prosperity, but Avhich seems almost

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 329
essential to her safety. The Cape in the hands of the tri
butary republic of Holland, can only be considered as a
French colony ; and when we consider that Bonaparte looks
upon our Indian territories as the great resource, of our
national power, we cannot suppose that he will long neg
lect to avail himself of the advantages which the local
situation of the Cape presents for our annoyance. Here
he may haAre an opportunity of gradually throwing in forces
and stores, and of accumulating, almost unperceived, such a
force as may prove truly dangerous to our possessions in
the East. Without a port to retire to for refreshment or
for shelter from the storms of those latitudes, it is impos
sible that our cruizers can here watch the motions of our
enemy, or blockade his squadrons as we do in his European
harbours. The forces which he might dispatch from this
station against our East-India settlements, would be far more
dangerous than the same, or a much greater number, sent
out direct from Europe. As the- climate of the Cape seems
in a particular manner fitted not only for recruiting the
health of the soldier, but also for preparing him to endure
the heats of India, our enemy's troops would on their ar
rival be enabled to cope with our forces on equal terms,
and even with the advantage of unbroken health and spirits
on their side. We may rest assured that the enemy who
could undertake the romantic scheme of penetrating by Egypt
and the Red Sea to our eastern empire, will not overlook
tbe easier and . far more sure means, of effectuating his
Uu

g30 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
purpose, Avhich are presented to him by the Cape of Good
Hope. To collect such a force, however, at this station as might
actually endanger our Indian dominions, may be the work
of time ; but our enemy has not to look forward to a dis
tant period before he can turn the Cape to the purpose of
annoying us. Those vessels, which convey the resources we
derive from the East, must of necessity pass the seas which
may be said to be commanded by the Cape. In the out
ward bound passage, indeed, our ships may take a wider
range, but it is impossible for them to bear so far to the
south, as to be entirely out of the reach of an enemy's
squadron stationed off the Cape to cruize against our trade.
When we consider the losses we sustained in the last war
by the cr-uizers from the Mauritius, and the Isle de France,
and, when we look tp the relative situation of these islands
and the promontory of the Cape, we shall yap convinced that
with all ^he&e stations at once in their possession, our ene
mies may so completely command the tract of our East-
India merchantmen, that an escape to Britain with their
cargoes, will be nearly as difficult for them, as to escape
from the Havannah to Europe is for the Register ships
during a war between Spain and this country.
When these consequences of the Cape being in the hands
of our enemies are duly considered, it will appear a matter
absolutely required by political prudence, that we should
lose no time in regaining this colony. . During a war,

\ THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, $31
the safety of our East-India trade can no otherwise be se
cured ; and equally, in peace and in Avar, the Cape may be
made use of for such preparations as may afterwards be
employed to wrest from us our most valuable possessions.
If report may indeed be believed, the French have already
begun to collect at this point a force, which must cause the
more uneasiness, and probably damage, that this is the sta
tion, in all the world, Avhere we can least Avatch its motions
and counteract its operations.
These considerations, of security to a large portion of
our dominions, are of themselves, independent of all others,
certainly sufficient to justify our attempting to regain the
Cape of Good Hope, even were the support of the settle
ment to entail upon us a considerable expence ; but tliere
are many other advantages which it might be made to yield
to Great Britain. The internal wealth of the colony does
not indeed hold out any temptation ; and if its resources
could be made to maintain the civil and military establishments
necessary for its own defence, little more is to be expected
from them, at least for several years. I have, however, in
the course of this work taken occasion to point out many
improvements of which various parts of the settlement are
susceptible, and several articles of produce which, by pro-
per attention to their cultivation, niight in time come to
be of importance to our commerce and revenue. The Avines
of the Cape might, by proper culture, be rendered in many
instances, equal to those of Europe. The high winds, the
want of Avater, and other natural causes, obstruct hi some
uu2

332 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
degree tne extension of the wine plantations ; but these
obstacles may be got over in a sufficient number of instances
to render the wine produced a valuable article of commerce.
To secure in this manner, within our own dominions, a
supply of a commodity, Avhich from its general use in this
country may be accounted a necessary of life, must, in the
present distracted situation of Europe, and the precarious
circumstances of Portugal, be considered as an object which
has a claim to the most serious attention of our govern
ment. The cultivation of the sugar-cane is another article which
might be carried to a very considerable extent at the Cape.
If a supply of sugar and rum could thus be procured, with
out the continual risk which attends the climate of the
West-Indies, we might at all times be enabled to undersell
every other nation in these articles ; the contingent loss of
any of our West-India islands, or the destruction of the
plantations, would be a matter of less detriment to the
nation at large ; nor would so much British capital be sunk,
nor so many British lives yearly lost on a most uncertain
species of speculation.
I have mentioned several other articles which might here
be cultivated with much advantage, such as tobacco and
olives, the latter of which grow here in almost any soil.
But it is not to particular articles of produce that the
speculations of the Cape planter require to be restricted ; the
productions of almost every climate might here be raised Avith
advantage, if the art of man were industriously employed

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 333
to second the bounty of nature. If the method of col
lecting water and flooding the grounds were properly under
stood, and hedge-rows and Avoods reared at proper inter
vals to protect the fields, the internal riches of the Cape,
might at no great distance of time, vie with that of any
of our colonies.
The benefits Avhich our East-India merchantmen, our
South-Sea whalers, and our ships of all sorts, which come
into those latitudes, would derive from our possession of
the Cape of Good Hope, are as great as they are obvious-
A place of refreshment and shelter for these vessels, is, in
many cases, indispensable ; yet, Avith the exception of St.
Helena, we have not a single port to receive them in the
vast stretch between Europe and the peninsula of India.
The supplies of provisions and water afforded by St. Helena
are extremely scanty ; and it has besides this peculiar dis
advantage, that it can only be visited by vessels in their
homeward-bound passage, and that for six months in the
year it must be beat up to in the face of contrary Avinds.
For outward-bound vessels the Rio Janerio serves at present
as a half-Avay station; but besides that it takes our vessels
considerably out of their way, it is to be remembered that
we have to depend for the continuance of this convenience
on the friendship of the Portugueze, who may already be
considered as the humble tributaries of France.
The advantages of possessing the only naval station in
the tract of our East-India trade, which by its harbours
affords complete security at all seasons of the year, and to

534 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
any number of ships, seem indeed too evident to require
any argument ; and yet these advantages have of late been
so much over-looked by the nation, that some reasoning
appears necessary to shew that they have not been over
rated. A station in tliose seas for refreshing the crews of
our trading ATessels is an object daily rising in importance;
nor can we reckon our commerce there at all secure, while
we depend for its facilities in any degree on the precarious
friendship of States, who may be compelled to become our
enemies. Other nations, the Americans in particular, have
already begun to share our trade in the East-Indies, and
our fisheries in the South-Seas. Every circumstance that
tends to obstruct our commerce in that quarter, must in
the same proportion increase that of our rivals ; and in this
manner a door may be opened to undermine one of the
most valuable branches of our resources.
If, on the other hand, the Cape of Good Hope wefe in
our possession, the facility of carrying on the East-India
trade, and the South-Sea fishery, would greatly preponde
rate on our side; and our established commerce and regu
lar adventures, supported by the vast capital of this coun
try, might then set all competition at defiance. The trade
of all the other nations, Avliose vessels frequent those seas,
would in that event be completely in our power. In the
time of war a feAV cruizers stationed here might entirely
command the surrounding seas, nor would it be almost pos
sible for the vessels of any nation trading to the East-Indies
to escape them. The mere possession of the harbours of

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 335
the Cape, without almost any cruizers, would indeed be
nearly sufficient to bring all our enemies into our power.
No European nation, with the exception of the English,
can venture upon stretching between Europe and India
without stopping by the way to refresh. The inferior
hardiness of their sailors, the ill-provided state of their ves
sels, and their inattention to cleanliness, renders it altoge
ther impossible for them to support an uninterrupted voyage
of five or six months.
For the purposes of defending our own foreign posses
sions, or keeping our enemies in check, no station can in
deed be found comparable to the Cape of Good Hope.
The facility and expedition with which troops can be sent
from it to the East or West-Indies, to South America, or
to any part of the coasts of Africa, must enable us to coun
teract, Avith the best possible effect, every attempt which
might be prejudicial to our interests. Should the French
a<»ain succeed in rendering themselves masters of Egypt, a
squadron from the Cape of Good Hope, could, in the course
of a few weeks, either blockade the entrance of the Red
Sea, if any danger was apprehended to India from a French
armament ; or convey to Suez a body of troops to attack
our enemies from that side, and co-operate with our forces
penetrating from the Mediterranean. Were the natiAre
princes of India to make such head against us, as that our
army there required speedy reinforcements, we could from
the Cape convey troops thither in less than half the time
in which they could be sent from Europe ; and with the
7

336 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
additional advantage of their being already seasoned to the
climate, and able immediately to act against the enemy.
Were any sudden attempt to be made on our West-India
Islands, a force from the Cape might in the same manner
speedily arrive to their relief; and that mortality be in a
great measure prevented Avhich has rendered those colonies
the graves of so many Europeans.
Besides the advantages of its centrical position, the qua
lities of the climate of the Cape in seasoning soldiers for
service in the warm latitudes, joined to the cheapness with
which an army may be maintained here, are sufficient mo
tives for marking it out as a most desirable military station.
The number of brave men which the defence of our East
and West-India dominions have cost us,, and who have fallen
victims, not to the sword of our enemies, but to the pesti
lential nature of the climate, cannot but produce the most
melancholy reflections. The East-Indies are indeed much
less fatal ; yet Avhen troops arrive there in the weakly state,
which must ahvays be consequent on a long voyage, those
distempers, which in a healthier frame of body they might
have undergone without any bad consequences, are often
found too poAverful for their constitutions. Even Avhen these
distempers do not prove immediately fatal, they are apt to
leave the individual in such a state as to incapacitate him for
any vigorous exertion, and render the remainder of his life
a sort of lingering decay. The invigorating effects of the
climate of the Cape have been proved in innumerable in
stances. Many of our officers who came thither from India
5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 337
with constitutions so enfeebled, that their cure seemed be
yond the reach of medicine, Avere in a A'ery short time so
restored at the Cape as to be able to return in perfect
health to their regiments. To provide such a receptacle
for those gallant men, avIio have sacrificed their own health
to the service of their country, is surely an object of the
first importance. Many who could bear to be conveyed
from India to the Cape, for the benefit of a better climate,
Avould sink under a Aroyage of double the length to Europe.
The effects of the Cape in recruiting men after a sea voyage
Avith astonishing rapidity are Avell known ; and its property
of seasoning troops for warmer climates has been proved in
many instances. The troops which were dispatched from
thence to assist in reducing the poAver of Tippoo Saib,
were able, on landing in India, immediately to take the
field, and to join in storming Seringapatam. The same regi
ments are at present partaking in our glorious successes in
India, and acting Avith unabated vigour and energy.
The cheapness with which an army may be maintained
at the Cape of Good Hope is also well deserving of se
rious consideration. The abundance of provisions of all
sorts is such, that with proper management a body of troops
mi edit be subsisted here, at a third less expense than in any-
other part of his Majesty's dominions. The comforts Avhich
must arise to the soldiers themselves from this cause, and
the effect it must have on reconciling them to foreign service
ought to be considered. If this station should be found
to afford government an opportunity of maintaining a force
X x

*-38 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

ODl

in a most central and convenient position, and yet at a
reduced expense, no one will dispute that this considera
tion alone is sufficient to render the possession of the colony
an object of the most desirable nature.

I have now brought to a period my obserA^ations on the
Cape of Good Hope. That errors may have crept in un
perceived in the course of the work, I have no hesitation to
acknoAvledge. I have howeArer endeavoured, as far as I could,
to describe with fidelity what I saw and heard ; and to deduce
such inferences from my observations, as they seemed naturally
to lead to. If zeal for the interests of my country has
made me over-rate either the advantages to be derived from
the Cape of Good Hope, in the possession of this country,
Or the dangers to be apprehended from its being occupied
by our enemies, I trust my failing in this respect will meet
with the indulgence of the Public. I have served my
country in different quarters of the globe, and wherever it
was my fortune to be stationed, I ever found her intriguing
and perfidious enemies, the French, iiidUstriously labouring
to accomplish her overthrow. It is impossible, therefore,
that I can behold, without the strongest emotions of regret,
these enemies possessed of a station which affords them the
means of undermining the pillars of our commercial gran
deur. For the inaccuracy of arrangement and the errors of com
position, it would be necessary for me to offer many apo-

5

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 339
logies, were I not convinced that a candid Public will readily
find an excuse for such imperfections in the works of an
author who is obliged, even while he holds the pen, to at
tend to his military duties at this momentous crisis. The
extreme liberality with which the most eminent critics of
our own country, as well as those on the Continent, treated
my first essay in composition, the Account of Ceylon, gives
me room to hope that they will look Avith still more indul
gence on a work, written under many disadvantages; not
the offspring of an interval of peace, but undertaken and
completed by one engaged in military duty, amidst the
bustle of unprecedented preparations for war.

FINIS.

C. and R. Baldwin, Printers,
New Bridge-Street, London.

x x 2

BOOKS lately published hy C. and R. Baldwin.
i. AN ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. Contain
ing its History, Geography; a Description of its Various Inhabitants,
and Natural Productions — to which is subjoined a Journal of an
Embassy to the Court of Candy. By Robert Percival, Esq. of
his Majesty's 18th or Royal Irish Regiment. Illustrated by a whole
Sheet Map of the Island, reduced by Mr. Arrowsmith from a
draAving in the possession of the Right Honourable the Commis
sioners for , the Affairs of India, and Charts of the Harbours of
Trincomale and Columbo, and. of the Pearl Fishery, dedicated, by per
mission, to His Royal Highness the Duke of York, 4to. Boards. \l. 8s.
" This , agreeable and interesting publication is written with great
modesty, entirely without pretensions, and abounds with curious and im
portant information. Mr. Percival will accept our best thanks for the
amusement he has afforded us?' Edinb. Review. No. 3.
" We feel sincere satisfaction in assuring our readers that we have
seldom perused a publication more replete with solid information, detailed
in a clear and unaffected manner'"' Monthly Review, Nov. 1803.
2. PARIS AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS ; or, a SKETCH of the
FRENCH CAPITAL, illustrative of the Effects of the Revolution,
with respect to Sciences, Literature, Arts, Religion, Education,
Manners, and Amusements ; comprising also a correct Account of
the most remarkable National Establishments and Public Buildings.
In a Series of Letters, written by an English Traveller, during the
Years 1801-2, to a Friend in London, 1 vols. 8vo. Boards, l/. lj.
Ipsa varietate tentamus efficere, ut alia aliis, quaedam fortasse omnibus pla-
ceant.  Plin. Epist.
*#* The above work comprehends the contrast which, in 1789-00
and 1801-2, Paris presented to the eye of an impartial observer. The
information it contains is derived from the most genuine sources ; and
it is presumed that, among the great variety of subjects on which it
treats, Something will be found to suit the taste of every class of
readers. 3. THE PRAISE OF PARIS— or, a Sketch of the French Capital,
in Extracts of Letters from France, in the Summer of 1802. By
S. W. F. R. S. F. A. S. 5s. 6d-
4. The Poetical Works of CHARLES CHURCHILL ; with ex-
7

BOOKS lately published by C. and R. Baldwin.
planatory Notes, an authentic Account of his Life now first pub
lished, and a copious Index, and embellished with an excellent en
graved Head of the Author, 2 vols. 8vo. 18j.
Still may I safe between the dangers steer
Of Scylla-flattery, and Charybdis-fear.
*#* In the Compilation of the Life the Editor has been materially
assisted by ihe possession of some valuable MSS. which were com
municated to him by Mr. Flexney, the original Publisher of the Satires,
— He was encouraged to prosecute this undertaking, which he had for
some time contemplated, by the following remark of Dr. Kippis, in the
Biographia Britannica ; " Perhaps nothing will revive the memory of
our Author s Poems, so as to cause them again to be generally read,
excepting a new Edition with Notes fully explaining the satirical and
historical allusions, &c. &c. &c.'"
5. PETRARCA ; A Collection of Sonnets from various Authors,
with an introductory Dissertation on the Origin and Structure of
the Sonnet. By George Henderson, Esq. Elegantly printed in
foolscap 8vo. adorned with beautiful appropriate Engravings by
Tomkins, and Dedicated by Permission, to Her Grace the Duchess
of Devonshire. 7s. 6d.
*#* These Sonnets are selected from the Works of Bay ley, Beloe,
Boothby, Bowles, Cowper, Crowe, Davenport, Dermody, Dimond, Drake,
Drummond, Dunster, Edwards, Emmett, Fisher, Gray, Hayley, Hoole,
Humfrey, Hunt, Langhorne, Mickle, Milton, Moore, Park, Penn, Pol-
whele, Pye, Mary Robinson, Roscoe, Russell, Scott, Anne Seward, Shak
speare, Charlotte Smith, Sotheby, Spencer, Lord Strangford, Earl of Sur
rey, Warton, Warwick, Mrs. West, H. M. Williams — besides some anony
mous, and some original.
" This book will find its way into every elegant Collection."
British Critic, Dee. 1803.
6. An ENQUIRY into the NECESSITY, NATURE, and EVI
DENCES of REVEALED RELIGION. By the Rev. Thos. Robin
son, A. M. Rector of Ruan-Minor, Cornwall. Dedicated by Permission
to His Grace the Duke of Leeds. 8vo. Boards. 6s.
The object of this Work has been to compress the arguments urged in
defence of Revealed Religion by so many writers, and to add such others

BOOKS lately published by C. and R; Baldwin.
as suggested themselves to the Author, with a view to assist the Student in
Theology, and those to whom a more elaborate research is not convenient.
7. A TOUR THROUGH NORTH WALES, principally under
taken with a View to Botanical Researches in that Alpine Country,
interspersed with Observations on its Scenery, Agriculture, Manufac
tures, Customs, History, and Antiquities. By the Rev. J. Evans, B. A,
8vo. 2d Edition. Boards. 8s. 6d.
8. THE GENERAL HISTORY OF INLAND NAVIGATION.
Containing a complete Account of all the Canals of the United Kingdom,
with their Variations and Extensions, according to the amendments of
Acts of Parliament to June 1803. And a Brief History of the Canals
of Foreign Countries. By John Phillips, Sen. Some time Surveyor
to the Canals in Russia under M. Cameron, Architect to the late Em
press Catharine II. 4th Edition 8vo. 6l6 pp. 10j 6d.
This work having passed through three editions in Quarto, the Author
has been advised for the purpose of a still more general. circulation, to abridge
it of such matter as was least useful ; which has enabled him not only to
reduce it to a moderate price, but also to add a large quantity of new and
important information. He has also given the Plan of a Lock to save
Water, which will be found worthy of particular attention in such places as
are liable to a deficiency.
§. WALKS AND SKETCHES AT THE CAPE OF GOOD
HOPE. To which is subjoined a Journey from Cape Town to Bletten-
burg's Bay. By George Semple, crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.
lO. AN OBSTACLE TO THE AMBITION OF FRANCE ; or,
Thoughts on the Expediency of improving the Political Condition of His
Majesty's Irish Roman Catholic Subjects. By Thomas Newenham,
Esq. Representative of the Borough of Clonmell, in the last Irish Parlia
ment. 8vo. 2d Edition. \s. 6d.
In the Press,
1. LETTERS written during a TOUR THROUGH SOUTH
WALES, descriptive of the Scenery, Antiquities, Agriculture, Botany,
&c. of that Part of the Principality. By the Rev. John Evans, A. M.
Author of a Tour through North Wales. 8vo.
2. AN ACCOUNT of the LIFE OF the Late Dr. JAMES
BEATTIE, with a short View of the State of Literature in Scotland,
during the last Century, and containing some Poems of his never before
published.— By Alexander Bower. Crown 8vo.

NEW ABRIDGEMENT of the PHILOSOPHICAL TRANSACTIONS of the ROYAL
SOCIETY of LONDON, from their Commencement to the present Time.
PLAN.
IN the present new Abridgement, the Mathematical Department is undertaken by
Charles Hutton, LL.D. F.R.S. that of Natural History by George Shaw, M.D.
F.R.S. and F.L.S. and that of Medicine, Chemistry, &c. by Richard Pearson, M.D.
F. S.A. S "
The subjects are presented in the same order in which they appear in the original. The
more important dissertations are reprinted in the style and language of their respective
Authors, with the adoption of the modern orthography : the less important dissertations
are considerably abridged. Those which are written in foreign languages are translated,
unless from the nature of the subject there would be an impropriety in giving them in
English. All the figures contained in the plales of the original Transactions relating to
Papers of any importance, are re-engraven.
The Papers are elucidated by numerous Critical and Scientific Notes, and a biographical
Notice accompanies the first mention of every principal contributor to the original work.
A detached volume will be published during the course of the work, containing an his
torical sketch of the origin, progress, and present state of this distinguished Institution;
together with Biographical Memoirs of some of its illustrious Members — embellished with
a well-engraven head of each.
To each volume there will be two tables of contents ; one corresponding wilh the-
numbers as printed; the other exhibiting the different subjects classed under their respec
tive heads. And at the end will be a copious Index of the whole.
This Abridgement is printed in -ito. and published in parts, one of which, consisting of
from 22 to 25 sheets, wilh a proportionate number of plates, appears ©n the first day of
every month, price 10s. 6'd. Four of these parts form a large volume. A few copies are
printed in a very superior style, on royal paper, with first impressions of the plates, and
hot- pressed, price 18s. each part.
It is hoped that this Abridgement will be contained in 15 volumes, and as more than
two are already published, this valuable and extensive work will be completed in the space
of four years from the present time.
Printed by and for C. and R. Baldwin, of New Bridge Street, Blackfriars. Sold also by
Bell and Bradfute, of Edinburgh ; by John Archer, of Dublin, and by all other Booksellers.
Testimonies of the Merits of this Undertaking
1 . Considering, as we decidedly do, the Philosophical Transactions of our Royal Society as an
honour to our native land, and being solicitous to support the claims of our countrymen to many
noble discoveries, which foreigners strive to wrest from them, we are pleased to hear of a new
Abridgement by men of such established talents in their respective departments. We conceive the
work before us to be eveu of national importance, and if the whole be carried through with the
spirit, taste, and judgment which are exhibited in this first volume, it will be a national honour.
It will tend to convince many foreigners who have not opportunities of perusing tlie orio-inal Trans
actions, how much every science and every art owes to British improvement. It will be a means
of preventing any impudent pretenders from robbing our illustrious forefathers of the fame which
is so justly their due. It will disseminate more widely the principles of real and useful knowledge ¦
and it will shew more clearly how different objects of human enquiry reciprocally illustrate and
support each other. A fair estimate of this work may be formed from what has appeared, and
judging from this, we have no hesitation in recommending so useful and valuable a performance
to general patronage and support — British Critic, Nov. 1803.
2. It is with no small degree of satisfaction that we now announce the completion of this volume
which, as a favourite publication with ourselves, we have unceasingly watched with an anxious
and jealous eye. The notes and biographic notices are sufficiently full and satisfactory; in these
additional parts the writers seem to have adopted a happy mean between diffuse narrative, and a
meagre collection of titles and dales. We cannot conclude without wishing this undertaking the
success it deserves. — Critical Review, Feb. 1804.
3. Of all the philosophic associations of modern Europe, none has greater claims upon tlie
gratitude of mankind than the Royal Society of London. The utility of the Transactions is
obviously proportioned to their importance : they are indispensable to every person who aims at
general knowledge : a library would be defective without them ; a book of science would be im
perfect unless the author had consulted them. Unfortunately, as they amount to above 100 quarto
volumes, they are too expensive to be generally purchased ; besides, the early volumes, indispensable
to those who wish to trace the progress of knowledge, are now so scarce as hardly to be procured
for money. Many ot the dissertations too are more diffuse than is necessary, and some are rendered
nugatory hy subsequent improvement. Hence the obviops advantages of an Abridgement, which
if, properly executed, would be preferable to the original work itself. We have carefully compared
the first Volume of the Abridgement with the original, and have the satisfaction to say, that we
found it remarkably accurate. The perspicuous and unaffected style of the Abridgers is peculiarly
adapted to a work of science.— Literary Joorhal, March I, 1804.