YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

NARRATIVE OF
THE EXPEDITION
SENT BY HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT
TO
THE RIYER NIGER,
IN 1841.
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
CAPTAIN H. D. TROTTER, R.N.
BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM ALLEN, R.N.
F.R.S. F.R.GJ9. CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, GEOGRAPHICAL
AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES OF PARIS; LATE COMMANDER H. M. S. WILBERFORCE.^
AND
T. R. H. THOMSON, M.D., Surgeon, R.N.
FELLOW OF THE ETHNOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, FELLOW OF THE BOTANICAL SOCIETY OF
EDINBURGH, AND CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON j
ONE OF THE MEDICAL OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION.

PUBLISHED WITH THE SANCTION OF
THE COLONIAL OFFICE AND THE ADMIRALTY.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in ffirBlnari) to ler JWajest!>.
1848.

LONDON:
Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street.

TO
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE ALBERT, K.G.
WHO
AS PRESIDENT OP THE SOCIETY FOR THE EXTINCTION
OP THE
SLAVE TRADE AND THE CIVILIZATION OP AFRICA,
TOOK SUCH PHILANTHROPICAL INTEREST IN ITS OBJECTS
AND IN THE PROCEEDINGS OP THE
NIGER EXPEDITION;
THESE VOLUMES,
ARE DEDICATED WITH GRACIOUS PERMISSION,
BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS*,
MOST DEVOTED HUMBLE SERVANTS,
WILLIAM ALLEN,
T. R. H. THOMSON.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.
PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN W. ALLEN, R.N.
MAP OF PART OF AFRICA
TOWN OF CAPE COAST CASTLE
MAP OF THE NIGER
AB&H CREEK
IDDAH CLIFFS
COURT OF THE KING OF IDDAH
HITTS AT IDDAH, DYERS AND BLACKSMITHS
MOUNTAIN BELOW THE CONFLUENCE
CONFLUENCE OF THE RIVERS NIGER AND CHADDA

To face Title Page.
To face Page 1
135
159
245
280
293
323333
374

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

WATERING PLACE, CAPE PALMAS
CROSSING THE BAR OF THE NIGER
LOWER PART OF THE NUN BRANCH
THE VILLAGE IBADI, OGUBORIH BRANCH
FOREST SCENERY, NUN BRANCH
KING OBI AND HIS WIVES
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, ETC.
AN IBU IDOL
ABOKKO
ADDA-MUGGU MOUNT ETSE
MOUNT PATTEH AND STIRLING HILL
MAP OF CEDED TERRITORY
FISHESGEOLOGICAL SECTION

To face Page

To face Page
To face Page

104160
180 190
194
207
215 242
273
274
347
348350
389
507

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. II.

the palaver .... Toface Title Page.
FUNERAL CEREMONY, ANNABON .... 64
CHURCH BAY, PRINCE'S ISLAND . . . . 159
EDEEYAH HUTS, FERNANDO PO . . . ¦ 197
EDEEYAH HUNT, FERNANDO PO . . - 213
KING BELL'S, HOUSE, CAMEROONS . . . 240
PIRATE ISLAND ..... 282
MADAME TEMEIRA'S HOUSE, PORT ST. ANTONIO, PRINCESS ISLAND 315

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

oniah market .... Page 5
POINT WILLIAM, FERNANDO PO . . . . 31
HUTS AT MAN-OF-WAR BAY, ISLAND ST. THOMAS . . 37
WATERING-PLACE AT ST. THOMAS'S ... 44
PALM TREES — A TYPE OF GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE . . 64
OLDFIELD PLAINS, NIGER .... 90
BRANCH OP THE SHEA BUTTER TREE AND NUT . . 104
THE ARCH AT ASCENSION .... 174
SHARK RIVER, FERNANDO PO, AND H.M.S.V. ' WILBERFORCE ' . 187
PIRATE ISLAND ..... 281
EDEEYAH DANCE ..... 303
PORT ST. ANTONIO, PRINCE'S ISLAND . . . 313
THE BURIAL PLACE OF THE EXPEDITION AND OF LANDER,
FERNANDO PO . . . . 332
arms, ju-jus, &c. . . . . Toface Page 400

PREFACE.

Events of the deepest excitement supersede one
another so rapidly, that it can scarcely be expected
the public will be solicitous to know why so long a
period has been allowed to pass since the return of the
Niger Expedition, before any authentic statement of its
proceedings has been given to the world.
The authors, conceiving that a faithful record of the
progress of that philanthropic experiment is due to the
public, as well as in justice to the conductors of it, have
ventured to draw up the following Narrative. They are
indebted to the late Dr. Vogel, Mr. Roscher, and Dr.
Stanger, of whose botanical and geological journals
(placed at their disposal by the kindness of Captain
Trotter) they have availed themselves ; and they have to
express their deep obligations to Dr. McWilliam for
the account of the proceedings of H. M. Steam-vessel
'Albert' whenever separated from the ' Wilberforce,'
and for a series of well-arranged tables of the vital
statistics. The account of the second ascent of the ' Wilberforce,'

Viii PREFACE.
is derived from the report of Lieutenant Webb to the
Admiralty. Some valuable philological remarks on the vocabu
laries of the African tribes have been kindly furnished
by Dr. Latham.
Colonel Sabine, R.A., had obligingly undertaken to
reduce the magnetical observations, but the attention
required by the numerous scientific works to which he
is so unremittingly devoted, has prevented their timely
preparation; grateful acknowledgments are, however,
due to that officer for supplying the accompanying letter,
which will show that this important branch of science
was not neglected. Woolwich, June 13, 1848.
"My Dear Sir,
" I regret extremely, that the reduction and co
ordination of your magnetic observations are not suf
ficiently advanced to enable me to furnish you with
such an abstract of the results, and such a general
notice of their importance and bearing on our know
ledge of the magnetism of the earth, as would have
had a proper place in your Work, and have been
satisfactory to yourself and to your readers. Your
determinations of the absolute values of the magnetic
declination, dip, and intensity of the magnetic force on
the western coast of Africa, will undoubtedly supply for

PREFACE. IX
the magnetic maps now in construction, the principal
part of the materials for that quarter of the globe.
"Having made some progress in reducing these, I
have had frequent occasion to admire the scrupulous and
persevering attention which you paid to all those minute
circumstances on which, in observations of this nature,
the accuracy of the results is mainly dependent ; and
which is the more important in your case, because the
interior of the continent of Africa is altogether without
such determinations, and the direction of the magnetic
lines is consequently more than usually dependent for
its correctness on the accuracy of the observations on the
coasts. I need scarcely say, that the peculiar objects
and circumstances of your Expedition, and the sufferings
which it underwent, render such careful attention to
minutiae the more worthy of admiration. The co
ordination of your observations on Term-days, with the
simultaneous observations made in different parts of
the globe, is also in progress, and promises to afford
some interesting and valuable results, particularly the
Term-day of April, 1842, which you observed at
Fernando Po. It was a day of considerable magnetic
disturbance apparently over the whole globe, and
Western Africa seems to have had its full share.,
Fernando Po, as a station, is well placed, in con
nection with the surrounding stations of the Cape

X PREFACE.
of Good Hope, St. Helena, Algiers, and Southern
Europe. " Believe me,
" My dear Sir,
" Very sincerely yours,
" Edward Sabine."
To Captain William Allen,
R.N. F.R.S.
The prominence given in the following Narrative to
the ' Wilberforce,' arises from the fact of that vessel
having been actively engaged during the whole period
of the Expedition, the command of which devolved on
Captain William Allen.

LONDON,
JUNE 20, 1848.

CONTENTS OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.
Ancient Copts first acquainted with the interior of Africa — Herodotus,
his account of the earliest African explorers — Ptolemy — Greeks and
Romans — Imperfect knowledge of the interior of Africa — Arab tra
vellers — Ibn Batuta and Leo Africanus — First Association formed
in England for promoting discovery in Africa — Messrs. Ledyard and
Lucas — Major Houghton — Mungo Park, his discovery of the Niger
— Horneman — Park's second expedition — Captain Tuckey's attempt
to penetrate Africa by the Zaire — Ritchie and Lyon — Clapperton,
Oudney andDenham's overland route — Clapperton's second attempt
— Sultan Bellos' idea of the Nile and Kowara, or Niger — Major
Laing reaches Timbuktuh — Richard and John Lander trace the
Niger from Bussah to the coast — Commercial Expedition formed at
Liverpool to ascend the Niger — Lieutenant W. Allen accompanies
it — Mr. Macgregor Laird and Richard Lander take charge of the
enterprise — Its failure as a commercial speculation — Mr. Becroft
ascends the Niger. .... 1 — 21
CHAPTER II.
The exploration of Africa desirable for nobler ends than the acquisition
of wealth— Sir Fowell Buxton proposes "The Remedy" — Formation
of the Society for the Suppression of the Slave Trade and the
civilization of Africa — Lord John Russell's views on the Slave

xii CONTENTS.
Trade— Proposes to send an Expedition to communicate with the
interior of Africa, and to establish commercial treaties— Size and
construction of the vessels— Arrangements for artificial ventilation
suggested by Dr. Reid — Armament — Paddle-box boats — Officers
appointed— Captain H. D. Trotter to command the expedition — The
' Wilberforce' touches at Kingston— Visit of the Viceroy— Proceed
ings at Kingston— Awkward mistake— The * Wilberforce' arrives at
Woolwich— H.R.H. Prince Albert visits the vessels — His interest
in the expedition — Munificent present to the Commanders —
Commissioners appointed — Scientific gentlemen attached to the
mission — Detentions .... 22 — 39
CHAPTER III.
Departure from England — Madeira — Hospitable reception — A fair Nun
— Santa Cruz — Tenerifie — Spanish beggars — Dress and pecu
liarities of the People — Iglesia Concepcion — Extraordinary Paint
ing — Fish-market — Convents — Monks — Peasants — Cochineal
insect procured for introduction into West Africa — Fertility of the
Soil — Remarks on the growth and cultivation of the Opuntia Tuna
and Cochineal — Museum — Remains of the Guanches — Arrival at St.
Vincent — Cape de Verd Islands — Meet the 'Soudan' and 'Harriot' —
Their stormy passage — Appearance of St. Vincent — Fort Major
turned laundress — Magnetical observations — Botany and Geology of
the Island — Vaccination introduced — Shooting " Cabras bravas" or
Wild Goats — Its dangers — Fossil shells — Curious spider's nest —
Seining — The doctor fish — Melancholy accident . 40 — 67
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from St. Vincent — Watering at Tarafal Bay — St. Antonio 
Orange groves— Plants— Phosphorescence of the sea— Luminous aca-
lephse— Precursory signs of a tornado— Curious appearance of the sea
-^-Sierra Leone — Polite attentions of the acting Governor — Engage the
interpreters and Krumen— Ludicrous names— Schooner purchased
—Free-town— Markets— Abundance of fruit— African fruit-sellers—
Violent tornado— Some Aku people killed while worshipping the
lightning— Awful spectacle— Botany— Liberated Africans— Remarks

CONTENTS. Xlll
on the condition of the colony— Missionary labours— Flight of locusts
— Leave Sierra Leone — Arrival at Cape Mesurado Liberia, prospects
of its advancement— Vegetation— Soil— Leewardly character of the
vessels— Sinu River— Intermarriage of Fishmen and Blue-Barra
people ...... 68—91
CHAPTER V.
Visit Edina — Gran Bassa — ' Black Will,' King of Bassa — Dexterity of
the Fishmen in the management of their canoes — Wooding — Huts
of the natives — Grave of Mack-be-ofl"' — Foulahs at war with the Fish
men — Senegal larkheel — Naturalist shoots a black boy by mistake,
or danger of " hopping the twig" — Trees and plants — Chameleons
— Popular belief that the saliva of this reptile produces blindness —
Pestilential swamps — Hammer-headed sharks — Cape Palmas —
Procure fuel — ' Jack Smoke/ Captain W. Allen's old Kru servant,
joins him — Appearance of the town and surrounding country —
Dress of the natives — Missionary establishment — Interesting
history of an American missionary — Sun-birds — Migratory black
ants — Their destructiveness — Geology — Superstitious dread of the
natives against planting Cocoa-nut trees — Meteorology. 92 — 112
CHAPTER VI.
The Grain Coast — Krumen and Fishmen, or Grebus — Peculiar charac
teristics — Mode of government — Religious observances — Diseases
— Music — Curious tradition — Good and evil spirits — Marocho, or
Kru Christmas— Marriages — Observances on the death of indivi
duals — Ceremony of drinking " Sassa water " — Aggri beads found
among the Krus — Supposed communication with the ancient
Egyptians — Kru fondness for finery — No slaves exported from the
Kru country — Animosities of Krus and Grebus — Emigration
recommended — Sail from Cape Palmas — Dangerous situation of the
' Wilberforce ' — Bottomless pit — Bobsum Accra — Whale-boat
swamped in landing — Sudden death of a liberated African — Several
cases of fever — Fatal case — Arrival at Cape Coast — Governor
M'Lean's desire to forward the views of the expedition — Appear
ance of Cape Coast — Governor M'Lean's policy — Fanti aversion

XIV CONTENTS.
to labour— Difficulty of improving the condition of the natives—
The Governor visits the ' Wilberforce '—Amusing scene— Surf-
Town of Cape Coast— Huts— Weaver-birds and their pensile nests
— Mr. Freeman's missionary labours among the Fantis — Searching
for gold dust ..... 113—136
CHAPTER VII.
Messrs. B. Marshall and W. H. Webb volunteer to proceed overland
to the confluence of the Niger and Chadda — Resting-place of the
gifted L. E. L. — Inscription on the tomb — Fanti soldiers — Indolence
of the natives — Dress — Marriages — Gold ornaments usually buried
with females — Native method of carrying children — Ornithology —
The oriole babbler — Its singular note — Fanti canoe men — Singing
and paddling — Mr. Schwansey's model garden — Botany and soil —
Governor M'Lean settles a dispute between two Akim chiefs —
Isert, the philanthropic Botanist — Growth of coffee — Doctor Vogel's
anxiety for his collection — Accra — Its superior salubrity — Gregre
idols, or Fetiches — Manufacture of gold ornaments — Moral .and
physical condition of the people on the Gold Coast — Fanti language —
Appearance of the natives — Sail from Accra — Heavy sea — Employed
removing Model Farm property from the transport — Liability to
mistake the Sengana for the River Nun — Rollers off the mouth
of the river — Curious appearance of the " Meeting of the
Waters." ..... 137—158
CHAPTER VIII.
The Expedition enters the Nun branch of the Niger — Death of Bach,
the instrument-maker from fever — Physical characters of the mouth
of the river — Curious effect of the rising tide — Chemical
examination of the waters — Geology — Shells — Bodies of females
exposed on the sea-beach— Surprise of the natives at our interest
in them — Woods on the right bank — Beautiful birds — The black
swallow — Rhyncops, or scissor-bill — Dangers of seining — Saw
fish sharks — The village of Akassa — Dwellings of the natives — Their
customs — Diseases of the natives — The Chief, Enemery — ' Boy's'
traffic with Aboh— ' Jack Fire'— The Reverend J. Miiller's prayer—

CONTENTS. XV
Pass through Louis Creek— Magnificent scenery— Monkeys in their
native woods — Village of Paraboli — Alligator as a Ju-ju, or Fetiche
—Alarm of the natives— Stillness of the Niger at night— Insect
music— Natives— Rum preferred to Coffee— Village of Kiambli—
White man said to live at Tchebhy— Rude Ju-ju idol— Ingyama—
Inhabitants terrified by the ' Devil ship ' — Lofty trees — New
channel — Ogulbah — Scenery — Otua— Communication with the na
tives — Curious fashions in arranging the hair . 159 — 186

CHAPTER IX.
Town of Amazuma — Ogulba — " Dash," or present from the natives —
The " smoke-canoe" creates much alarm — Botany — Little Ibu,
or O'korotombi — Stirling Island — Indyama — Brass and Bonny
canoes — Benin branch — Town of Anyah — Orissa and his wives —
Ladies offended — African hair-dressers — Methods of catching
fish — Granby, our interpreter recognizes an old friend —
Native fishing-houses — Fishermen's Ju-jus, or idols — Ipatani—
Utok — Visit of the Chief — Beautiful birds — Arrival at Ab6h —
Prince Ejeh — Odd costume of a person of rank — Obi Ossa'i,
the Ezzeh or King, visits the ' Wilberforce' — Recognizes a former
acquaintance — The royal dress — Native music — Harsh tones of the
ope and eriki-riki — Obi's favourite wife and daughter — Prince
Ejeh makes an addition to his wardrobe — The princes afraid of a
sand-toy — The * Albert' and ' Soudan' arrive — Honesty of a native
woman — Amusing scenes — The pride of the Bimmenah people
— Refuse to take the cowries because they were thrown on the
ground — The ' Soudan' examines a creek opposite Aboh 187—213
CHAPTER X.
Obi Osa'i's numerous sons — Visit to the ' Albert' — Large canoes —
Officers of state — Conference with the Commissioners — Object of
the Expedition explained to Obi Osai — Questions relative to the
slave-trade — Duty or per centage to be allowed the King — Obi
Osai promises to enter into a treaty for abolishing the slave-
trade — Obi, on his return to shore, makes " Fetiche" — Rejoicings
in the town of Abdh — Obi's wives — His "arrisi," or idols — The war-

XVI CONTENTS.
god— Religious ritual— Title and right of succession to the sove
reignty of Ab6h — Royal prerogatives — Headmen, or elders, of the
several towns and villages— Adultery, its punishment— Murder—
The priests or Ju-ju men — Their cunning — Large war-canoes—
Mode of levying people in time of war — King Boy's faithless wife,
a daughter of Obi — Ibu women celebrated for their personal
charms — Mode of fattening wives — Demoralising effects of the
slave-trade — Abdh slaves often sent by Benin branch to sea-coast —
Number of inhabitants — Obi's power . 214 — 240
CHAPTER XI.
Physical characteristics of the Ibus — Religious superstitions — Idols
numerous — Horrible practice on the birth of twins — Large earthen
idol — Tshuku or the Great Spirit — Absurd stories of the priests —
Abdh Creek — Beautiful birds — Native dwellings — Ezzeh Obi
Osai's mud palace — The Harem — Human sacrifices — Insalubrity
of Aboh — Ornithology — Rare animals shot by accident — Plants —
Domestic slavery — Obi Osai's second visit to the 'Albert' — Obi
kneels down with the white men to worship their God — His
sudden fear — The " arrisi" or idol called for — The presents — Obi's
anxiety to establish trade with England — Departure from Aboh —
Ogou ladies — Proceed up the river — Body of a female floating in
the stream — Ali Here, the Ibu pilot — Beauty of the country—
"Osochai" — Aboh trade-canoes — Okoh — Splendid sunset — Fishing-
huts — Appearance of the hills— Anno — Abain-himor the "meeting
of the waters" — Adda-Mugu or Abela — Sufferings of the former
Expedition at this place — Circular huts first met with — The Edoh
examined— Uliain village— King William's Mountain— Anchor off
Iddah. ..... 241 — 277
CHAPTER XII.
Appearance of Iddah by moonlight — Native welcome — Landing-place
—Splendid panoramic view from the cliffs of Iddah— Doctor
McWilliam and Mr. Schon sent to communicate with the Attah—
Native mode of salutation— Edina, a chief— His wives— Etiquette to
be observed by strangers at Iddah— Princess Amada Bue— The

CONTENTS. XV11
Attah's pretty daughter, Idjee-Futhul— Amada Bue prepares a break
fast in native fashion for the strangers — The Attah's unwillingness
to appear — His dress — Ministers of State — The message delivered—
Singular reply of the Attah — Rain must never fall on the Attah —
Conference of the Commissioners with the Attah — Natives testify
their joy at seeing white men — Amada Bue's idea of human sacri
fices — Appearance of the Attah and his courtiers — Lobo, the chief
judge — Articles of a treaty agreed on for the suppression of the
Slave Trade and human sacrifices — The Attah's desire for the
establishment of a model farm — Promises to protect white settlers,
and wishes to have " white teachers" — His evident anxiety to
obtain the presents .... 278 — 305
CHAPTER XIII.
The ' Wilberforce' and ' Soudan' dispatched across the river to procure
fuel — Hostile character of the natives — Their wars with the Eggar-
ras — Savage appearance — Arms — Beauty of the country — Ants'
nests — Their formation — Snakes — The kola or goora-nut — Town
of Wappa— The Chief "Egada Yaluelama"— King Obah of Benin-
Human sacrifices — Specimens of birds — Snakes — Venomous cen
tipedes — African scorpion — Final interview of the Commissioners
with the Attah — The treaty signed and attested — Arabic Bible
presented — List of presents — Scene in the Attah's palace — City of
Iddah — Divided into districts — Militia — Houses — Market place —
Articles for sale — Cotton manufactures — Native smiths — Arms, &c.
— Dying — Method of fishing — 'The Mallams — Physical character of
the natives — Form of government and laws — Cavalry — Sale of
charms — Religion of the people — Their notions of God — Human
sacrifices — Prospects of Missionary labours — Polygamy — Melan
choly death — The ' Wilberforce' gets aground — Fever com
mences . . . . 306 — 335
CHAPTER XIV.
Mount Franklin — Villages — Nearly all the officers of the ' Soudan'
aid up with sickness — Adda Kudda in ruins — English doctors
appreciated by the natives — Kakanda people — Ameh Abokko, the
Annajah, or Governor, visits the ships — Deaths of some of the
VOL. I. b

xviii CONTENTS.
crews from fever— Insupportable heat and closeness of the atmos
phere—Visits from snakes — How accounted for— Drs. Stanger
and Vogel ascend Mount Patteh — Stirling Hill selected as the best
locality for the Model Farm — First instalment of purchase money
paid to the Attah of Eggarah — Model Farm utensils and furniture
landed — Malam Sabah — Towns on the banks of the Chaddah —
Mr. W. H. Webb left in charge of the 'Amelia' tender and Model
Farm — Fever progressing at an alarming rate in all the vessels —
Death of Mr. Nightingale — Mortality in the vessels — Weekly con
dition of the crews generally — Captain Trotter decides on sending
the sick to the sea-side in the ' Soudan' — Meeting of the Com
missioners — The sick received on board the ' Soudan' — Increase of
the fever on board the ' Wilberforce' . . 336—369
CHAPTER XV.
Recapitulatory remarks — The entrance to the River Nun — The extent
of the Delta — The Nun the principal outlet — Dense forests — In
creasing population as we ascend — Various nations — Conquests of
the Filatahs — Lobo, the chief Judge of Iddah — Schools — Religion
— Advance of Mahomedanism — Simple architecture — Description
of a native dwelling — Cooking — Native beer of the Pagans —
Politeness of the natives in the interior — Treatment of the women
— Languages very numerous — Interpreters speak many languages
fluently — Haussa, the language of commerce — Dress and ornaments
• — Growth of cotton, indigo, &c. — The love of traffic, the ruling
passion — Markets — Dilatory traders — Lander's promissory notes
— The principal articles of trade enumerated — The average profit
on European goods stated — Erroneous estimate of the quantity and
price of ivory by Lander . . . 370 — 407

•ToltrvArrowstttiBu

A NARRATIVE

EXPEDITION TO THE RIVER NIGER.

CHAPTER I.

Ancient Copts first acquainted with the interior of Africa— Herodotus,
his account of the earliest African explorers — Ptolemy — Greeks and
Romans — Imperfect knowledge of the interior of Africa — Arab tra
vellers — Ibn Batuta and Leo Africanus — First Association formed
in England for promoting discovery in Africa — Messrs. Ledyard and
Lucas — Major Houghton — Mungo Park, his discovery of the Niger
— Horneman — Park's second expedition — Captain Tuckey's attempt
to penetrate Africa by the Zaire — Ritchie and Lyon — Clapperton,
Oudney andDenham's overland route — Clapperton's second attempt
— Sultan Bellos' idea of the Nile and Kowara, or Niger — Major
Laing reaches Timbuktuh — Richard and John Lander trace the
Niger from Bussah to the coast — Commercial Expedition formed at
Liverpool to ascend the Niger — Lieutenant W. Allen accompanies
it — Mr. Macgregor Laird and Richard Lander take charge of the
enterprise — Its failure as a commercial speculation — Mr. Becroft
ascends the Niger.
The vast regions of central Africa, for inscrutable
purposes, have been, as it were, a sealed book which
has excited and eluded the curiosity of civilized nations
of all ages. Although many attempts have been made
VOL. I. b

2 SLAVE TRADE OF THE COPTS.
to search into the contents of the mysterious volume,
but a few scanty pages only, have with difficulty, and
at long intervals been deciphered.
We have thought it desirable to put together the
information thus sparingly gleaned ; and therefore pro
pose to give a succinct account of the discoveries of
our precursors, in order that the reader may be able to
connect them with the following Narrative of the late
Government Expedition ; confining our chain of intro
duction to such facts as relate to its peculiar object —
the River Niger and the nations on its banks.
In commencing at the earliest possible period, we
have good precedent in the case of the Venetian Senator ;
who, wishing to give a brief sketch of the revolutions of
empires, began his oration with an investigation into the
causes of the Fall of the Angels.
Among the representations of contemporaneous events,
&c, on the walls of ancient temples and tombs in Upper
Egypt, fettered groups of black figures, bearing appa
rently the peculiar characteristics of the Negro,* lead to
the belief not only that the Copts, as far back as 3,400
years, had some acquaintance with the interior of their
continent, but that this devoted race was even at that
remote periodf victims of the oppression and rapine
* Rossellini, vol. I. pi. 64, 85, 86, &c.
t The traffic in slaves was tolerated in Egypt ; and it is reasonable
to suppose that many persons were engaged, as at present, in bringing
them to Egypt for public sale, independent of those who were sent as
part of the tribute.— Sir G. Wilkinson, yol. i. p. 404.

HERODOTUS. EARLY EXPLORERS. 3
which — perpetuated through all intermediate periods —
have in our own proud age produced " a sum of
human misery — the most painful of any which, in the
survey of the condition of mankind, it is possible to
contemplate." Whether the geographical knowledge of the Copts
was confined to the scenes of their predatory warfare in
those parts of Ethiopia in their immediate neighbour
hood, or was extended to the interesting field of modern
research, there are no records left for our information
earlier than 484 years before Christ ; when, we learn
from Herodotus, the " Father of Historians," that in
his time there was a spirit of inquiry respecting the
remote and almost inaccessible countries lying beyond
the Desert.
" He was informed by some Cyrenians, that in a
journey they took to the Oracle of Ammon, they had
conferred with Etearchus, King of the Ammonians;
and that, among other things, discoursing with him
concerning the head of the Nile, as of a thing
altogether unknown,, Etearchus acquainted them that
certain Nasamones, a nation of Lybia inhabiting the
borders of the Syrtis to the eastward, coming into
his country, and being asked by him if they had
learned any thing new touching the Lybian Deserts,
answered that some petulant voung men, sons to
divers persons of great power among them, ihad, after
many extravagant actions, resolved to send five of
their number to the Deserts of Lybia, to see if they
B 2

4 THE NASAMONES DISCOVER THE NIGER.
could make any further discoveries than others had
done. " The young men chosen by their companions to
make this expedition, having furnished themselves with
water and other necessary provisions, first passed through
the inhabited country ; and when they had likewise
traversed that region which abounds in wild beasts, they
entered the Deserts, making their way towards the south
west. After they had travelled many days through the
sands, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain ;
and while they were eating the fruit they found on the
branches, divers little men, less than those we account of
a middling stature, came up to them, speaking a
language which the Nasamones understood not ; neither
did they understand the speech of the Nasamonians.
However, they conducted them over vast morasses to a
city built on a great river; running from the west to
the east and abounding in crocodiles, where the Nasamo
nians found all the inhabitants black, and of no larger
size than their guides.
"The Nasamonians all returned safe, and said that
the little men were all enchanters. But for the river
which passes by their city, he thought it to be the Nile ;
and his opinion is not unreasonable."*
No task could be more hopeless than the attempt to
identify any geographical position by an account so

* Herodotus, Euterpe, p. 155, Littlebury's translation.

THE NASAMONES DISCOVER THE NIGER. 5
vague and even so questionable. Nevertheless, the
reviving curiosity of the middle and subsequent ages
has given these early travellers credit for having
reached the Niger. With regard to the "great city"
on its banks, speculation can have no clue, since the
lapse of ages may have witnessed the destruction of
many mud-built cities on its banks, prior to the erection
of Timbuktuh; which Leo Africanus says, was in the
year 610 of the Hegira.
Thus, a single passage of the Greek historian has
directed the researches of travellers in Africa to one
principal object. As usual with all things difficult of
attainment, this interest has increased in proportion to
the physical obstacles which seemed to be almost insur
mountable ; and the failure of one adventurer has only
had the effect of stimulating others ; who flattered
themselves that circumstances might be more favourable
to their energy and perseverance.
Uncertain glimmerings of light on the subject have
been handed down to us from the ancients, and through
the middle ages ; but until within a century of our own
times, the knowledge of the interior of Africa has
remained almost as vague as it was left by the
" petulant Nasamonians." There is, however, even in
their slight allusion, a degree of romance which has
tinctured all subsequent enterprises; and that short
passage of Herodotus may be said to shadow forth the
difficulties which would attend those who should follow
and attempt to verify their discoveries.

6 NIGR1TIA KNOWN BY PTOLEMY.
The Greeks, in the time of Ptolemy, must have had
extensive information respecting the countries south of
the Desert, by means of itineraries of numerous travellers
of his day. He has laid down the positions of many
places, which from his imperfect means, are hardly to be
identified,, but he clearly shews that two large rivers
traversed Sudan ; namely, the Gir and the Nigir ;
that the latter is the River Joliba, of Park, cannot admit
of a doubt. Succeeding researches will also, perhaps,,
shew as clearly that the Gir is the Chadda.
Although the Romans crossed the great Desert with
their armies, and even reached the countries since
discovered by Denham and Clapperton, they have left no
information respecting our river ; and for many centu
ries after them, the interior of Africa remained
forgotten and unknown; until some Arabian geogra
phers restored it to the speculations of the spoiler, of
the explorer, and in our own better times, of the
philanthropist. Some of these Arabs, and especially Ibn Batuta* in
1353, and Leo Africanus.f in his work published 1556,
speak of the great river of Africa as the Niger, and
describe the cities and nations on its banks. The latter
says that, Tombutto J was a rich and powerful city, built

* Professor Lee's translation.
t Viaggi da Ramusio, torn. I. p. 78.
t It is curious that one of our interpreters, Mohamed Lamina, said
he knew two large cities, Timbaktu and Tombuttu, and the latter was
very much larger than the other.

THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION. 7
by a King called Mensi Suleiman in the year 610 of
the Hegira, 1232, a.D.
The Portuguese, in pursuit of discovery along the west
coast of Africa, commenced the slave-trade there in
1443;* but the interest respecting the interior again
remained dormant till towards the end of the eighteenth
century, when the fearful extent to which the traffic in
slaves had arrived in England, gave rise to a spirit of
inquiry respecting the countries from which we drew
yearly so many thousand victims.
"In the year 1788, some noblemen and gentlemen,
desirous of rescuing the age from a charge of igno
rance, which in other respects so little belongs to it,
and strongly impressed with a conviction of the practi
cability and utility of thus enlarging the fund of human
knowledge, formed the plan of an association, for pro
moting the discovery of the interior parts of Africa, "f
The first efforts of the Association were to equip
two volunteers for African discovery, Mr. Ledyard and
Mr. Lucas. The former to endeavour to cross the
continent from Senaar towards the west ; the latter was
to penetrate from Tripoli to Fezzan, and thence to

* Mr. Bandinel on the Slave Trade, p. 15.
f Proceedings of the African Association, " In this year, also, the
Bill of Sir William Dolben for the regulation of the Slave Trade
passed on the 10th of July, through the Upper House as through
an ordeal, as it were of fire ; the first bill that ever put fetters upon
that barbarous and destructive monster, the Slave Trade." — Clarhson,
vol. i- p. 560.

8 COURSE OF THE NIGER.
the Gambia and coast of Guinea. Mr. Ledyard unfor
tunately died at Cairo, and Mr. Lucas was unable, on
account of intestine wars, to reach Fezzan; but at
Mesurata, he obtained from native travellers some
valuable information concerning the routes across the
Desert to Moursouk, the capital of that country ; and
of the manners and customs of the people, of the
empires of Bornu and Kashna, of the city of Timbaktu
and of the River Niger, the rise and termination of
which, according to his informant, were unknown, but
its course was from east to west.
An opinion had long obtained that the Niger
flowed to the westward, instead of, as the great
historian had asserted, to the eastward; and some
of the rivers on the west coast, near Sierra Leone,
were supposed to be its outlet. In the beginning of
the seventeenth century, a Portuguese pilot, passing the
Rio Grande on his way to St. Thomas' Island : says, " it
is held for certain that this is the river which was called
by the ancients the Niger, and that it is a branch of *
the Nile flowing to the westward."*
Some further information, obtained from an Arab
trader, named Shabeni, respecting the city of Timbaktu,

* " Si va per sirocco alia volta del Rio Grande sopra l'Ethiopia gradi
1 1 verso il nostro polo ; qual rio over flume, si tien certo che sia quello
che dalli antichi fu chiamato Nigir, e ch' el sia un ramo del Nilo che
corre verso ponente, percio che in detto fiume vi si trouan coco-
drilli, caualli marini ; cresce in li medesimi giorni che cresce il Nile-."
— Viaggi da Ramusio, p. 115.

HOUGHTON. MUNGO PARK. 9
and the River Niger, induced the Association to send
Major Houghton, with instructions to penetrate to the
Niger by way of the Gambia.
This enterprising officer did not, however, get beyond
the kingdom of Bambouk, where the quantity of mer
chandise which he imprudently carried with him excited
the cupidity of the native traders, whom he had engaged
as guides, and who, after stripping him of everything,
left him to perish.
The melancholy end of Major Houghton's enterprise
did not deter a new adventurer from offering his services
to the African Association. Mungo Park's simple and
touching narrative is so well known to all who read,
that it will be only necessary to refer to the achievement
which has placed him at the head of African travellers —
namely, the discovery of a great river which we call the
Niger. He ascended the River Gambia, and after having
with incredible difficulty crossed several kingdoms, he
arrived on the 21st of July, 1796, at Sego, the capital of
Bambarra, where he had the gratification of seeing " the
majestic Niger glittering in the morning sun, as broad
as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to the
eastward." He traced the direction of this noble river —
which the natives called Joliba — a short distance to the
eastward, and having obtained some information, though
vague, of its further course, he returned to England.
Although much had been accomplished, yet the mys
terious Niger remained almost in as great obscurity as
ever. To endeavour to unveil this mystery, other

10 HORNEMAN. PARK'S SECOND JOURNEY.
travellers now entered the field, but without success.
The principal of these was Horneman, a student of
Gottingen, who, if he penetrated as far as Nun or
Nyffe, as was supposed, must have become acquainted
with a great portion of the course of the Niger ; but
he probably fell a victim to the climate, as he never
returned. Park's adventurous spirit would not let him rest
while the great problem remained unsolved ; and, in the
beginning of 1805, he again started, under the authority
of the Colonial Office, to " pursue the River Niger to the
utmost possible distance to which it can be traced." He
again took the route from the west coast of Africa by the
Gambia, but was not now in the forlorn and solitary
condition of his former journey. He was accompanied
by a party of three officers, and forty-two men ; soldiers,
seamen, and artificers.
Park's indomitable perseverance enabled him to reach
the Niger, though with the loss of all his party except
Lieutenant Martyn and three soldiers, all the others
having fallen a sacrifice to the fevers consequent on the
great fatigue and privations they had to undergo in
travelling during the rainy season in that dangerous
climate. Here it may be necessary to notice an apparent
anomaly, or incongruity of opinion, as to the most
healthy or unhealthy time in Africa. Park always
spoke with horror of the rainy season, as " being
extremely fatal to Europeans." Whereas our opinion,

THE DEATH OF MUNGO PARK. 1 1
backed by that of every experienced person on the coast,
is quite the reverse. The different circumstances of
the two expeditions, must, however, be borne in mind.
Park and his party, in their long journey by land,
were exposed to the alternate effects of the deluging
rain of the tornado, and the scorching heat of a tro
pical sun. Whereas nautical expeditions, admitting
of constant shelter from both, have the full benefit
of the refreshing effects of the tornado upon the
atmosphere. There can be no question, but that with
means of shelter, the rainy season is comparatively
healthy. Having constructed a vessel out of three half-rotten
canoes, which he called His Majesty's schooner, Joliba,
Mungo Park and his remaining companions embarked
on the 19th of November, 1805, and proceeded down the
mysterious river, to seek its unknown termination.
This they never accomplished : unfavourable rumours
respecting them reached the coast in the course of the
following year. But notwithstanding the great interest
felt by the public for this enterprising traveller, it is
unaccountable that no steps were taken to ascertain the
truth until 1810, when Colonel Maxwell, then Governor
of Senegal, dispatched Isaaco — Park's guide as far as
Sansanding, and who had brought his last communi
cations to the Gambia — with instructions to collect all
the information he could. Isaaco having met the man
who had accompanied the schooner as guide and pilot,
learned from him the fatal truth. They had safely

12 EXPEDITION TO THE CONGO.
navigated the river as far as Bussah ; but here, taking
advantage of its being much obstructed by rocks and
rapids, the natives — by command of the King — attacked
the little band with bows and arrows. They defended
themselves gallantly a long while, and at last perished;
in an attempt to escape by swimming.*
With this great sacrifice, a step was gained to the
knowledge of the course of the Niger. Although the
details of the voyage were unknown, the continuity of
the river was ascertained as far as Bussah, also the
unexpected change of its direction from an easterly
course, which puzzled all geographers, to one nearly
south. This led to the wild supposition, that the waters
of the Niger might discharge themselves in the River
Congo or Zaire, and an expedition was sent thither
under Captain Tuckey, R.N. At the same time,
another expedition was to follow the route of Mungo
Park, in the hope of meeting at some point on the river.
* Mr. Duncan in his " Travels in Western Africa," vol. n. p. 181,
gives another version of this tragical event, received from Terrasso-
Weea; who was an eye-witness of it. By this it appears, that the
pilot Amadi Fatuma, having appealed to the King of Yauri, on a false
charge, that Park had not paid him his wages, the canoe was ordered
to be stopped. Park resisted this, and a general attack was made on
him, in which this unfortunate traveller having been mortally wounded,
was brought into the presence of the King, where he died. Besides
the disagreement of this account with that of Isaaco respecting Park
having lost his life in the water, there is a discrepancy in the locality.
Isaaco said, that the catastrophe took place at Bussah; which is
confirmed by Lander, who sat on the rocks which overlook the place
where the intrepid Park lost his life.

DISCOVERY OF BORNU. 13
The usual fate of African travellers attended them ; they
had to encounter hardship and fever, and both failed.
Tuckey entered an embouchure of immense width and
depth, discharging a volume of water with a rapidity
of current sufficient to justify the expectation of finding
a river of first-rate magnitude ; but on ascending with
great difficulty, not having the advantage of steam, they
found it suddenly reduced to a narrow rocky channel
terminated by a cataract. Beyond this, they traced a
magnificent river one hundred miles, or two hundred
and eighty miles from the coast. They were then
obliged from exhaustion to return, and most of them
died. Other attempts by Gray, from the west coast;
Ritchie and Lyon by way of Fezzan, were equally
unsuccessful. In 1822, Clapperton, Oudney, and Denham crossed
the Great Desert from Tripoli, and discovered the
powerful kingdom of Bornii, situated on the borders
of the large lake, Tshad. Respecting this noble sheet
of water, however, very little information was obtained,
except that it was " clear and remarkably sweet,"
which fact alone would justify the supposition that
it is but the widening of a large river ; probably
the " Gir" of Ptolemy, and may prove to be identical
with the great tributary of the Niger — the so-called
Chadda. The principal feature, however, of this expedition,
which bears on our present purpose, is the journey of
Clapperton through a large part of Sudan westward to

14 CLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY.
Sakatuh, the chief city of the new empire of the Filatahs ;
where he ascertained that he was in the vicinity of the
river traced by the unfortunate Mungo Park; perhaps
flowing to the S.E. within one hundred miles of him.
This knowledge, derived from Sultan Bello, led to the
second expedition of that enterprising officer in the
year 1825, in which were associated with him the
amiable and accomplished Captain Pearce, and two
other gentlemen, who all however died soon after the
commencement of their journey from Badagry, in the
Bight of Benin, from whence they proposed to travel
overland to Sakatuh. Clapperton was thus left to
pursue his route, accompanied only by his faithful servant,
Richard Lander ; to whose name, and to that of Mungo
Park, will be ascribed the glory of having discovered
the course and termination of the hitherto mysterious
Niger. The travellers arrived at Bussah, where the
accounts previously received of the melancholy fate of
Park were confirmed through the King and the natives,
who adverted to the subject with great reluctance; they
regretted the circumstance, and declared that they took
the party for Filatahs, from whom they feared a pre
datory incursion, or they would not have attacked
them. Clapperton crossed the Niger at Comi, the first
ferry below the rocks and rapids, which extend a good
way from Bussah.
Clapperton having died at Sakatuh, with some
appearance of having been poisoned, Richard Lander
traversed alone unknown countries, bringing with him

SULTAN BELLO'S MAP OF THE KOWARA. 15
the papers and valuables of his beloved master. He
very nearly discovered the course of the Chadda,
having been within a short distance of Jakoba, which
is on its banks ; but was forced to return by a native
Prince, who sent some horsemen after him. He sub
sequently returned to the coast by the same route
that he had taken from it. Among Clapperton's
papers was a chart drawn by Sultan Bello's orders,
tracing the course of the Niger in Sudan; on which
was written: "This is the sea (river) of Kowara,
which reaches Egypt, and is called the Nile." But
Bello and his principal men declared that the Kowara
entered " the sea" at Fandah, by which it is evident
that they alluded to the continuity of that river with
the Chadda or "bekki'n rua," "dark water," and that
they knew nothing of their joint course to the sea, or
" rua'n gisheri," " salt water."*

* Bello, the Sultan of the Fulahs, Filatahs or Fellahs, told Clapper
ton that in the eastern part of Sudan there were ninety-nine moun
tains, the names of which all began with F ; but of these only three
were known, viz : Fazuglu, Fanduflu and Faffaklu ; which we may
imagine also to be the names of the rivers descending from them into
the lakes Fittre and Chad. To these we may now add the Nufi names
of the Chadda and the Niger, Furogi and Furodo.
It is funny that these Fellahs are so fond of the letter F; but unfor
tunate for Folly, that they could not furnish fuller facts for the fol
lowing frivolous flight of fancy.
Fish, flesh, and fowl, and fruitful fields,
For fortune's fav'rite friend or foe
Fazuglu finds, Fanduflu yields —
Where Fur'ji, Fur'do FafFklu flow, [They

16 MAJOR LAING REACHES TIMBAKTUH.
About the time of Clapperton's second journey, Major
Laing succeeded in reaching Timbaktuh, by way of the
Desert, from Tripoli. He had been attacked and
wounded by the Arabs; but persevered until he had
attained the object of his mission, and gained for
England the honour of having first discovered this long
sought-for city ; as Park had already done with regard
to the Niger. It was, however, an equally dear-bought
and empty honour, for he was murdered by the fero
cious Arabs in re-crossing the Desert. His papers have
never been recovered, though they were reported to have
been taken to Tripoli.
A Frenchman, M. Caillie, also reached Timbaktuh;
but his narrative is very meagre.
The termination of the Niger, still remained a sub
ject for speculation, and many were the theories formed
respecting it. Some held with the old opinions of the
Arabs, that it joined the Nile of Egypt. Others
that its waters were lost in the sands of the Desert, or
being discharged into a large lake, in central Africa,
were there evaporated. While its supposed southerly

They fecundate to furnish food
For far-famed Fellahs ; first who fought,
For fierce Dan Fodio* free of thought :
Or fill full fast from foamy flood,
Foul feral Fittre j — fever-fraught.
» * » * »
• Saltan Bello's predecessor, who excited the Fellahs of Haussa to
throw off the yoke of the Negro Princes, who grievously oppressed
them about seventy years ago, according to Lander.

PERILOUS ENTERPRISE OF THE LANDERS. 17
course, after passing Timbaktuh, inclined many to the
belief that its outlet was to be found in the Atlantic. It
is surprising that this, the most rational theory, did not
obtain more favour. Reichard supposed its outlet to be
there; and Mr. McQueen, in 1821, traced its course
by itineraries with tolerable accuracy.
The period, however, had now arrived when this
" vexata auestio" should be set at rest.
Richard Lander, whose fidelity and perseverance
had gained the approbation of the Government, offered
his services to discover the termination of the Niger,
by the obvious though hazardous alternative of em
barking at Bussah, and following the stream in a canoe
whithersoever it might lead him.
His brother John volunteered to accompany him, and
having been furnished by Government with means, they
commenced their arduous enterprise from Badagry,
where they engaged some native attendants, who had
served on the former occasion with Captain Clapperton.*
Following nearly the same route taken by that officer
from Badagry, the Landers came to the banks of the
Niger at Bussah; where embarking with their four
Negroes, in a small open canoe, protected only by
umbrellas from the scorching rays of the sun and the

* They subsequently were also hired by Lander on the Liverpool
Expedition. Pasco, the chief of them, was treacherously poisoned by
order of the then King of Iddah, for having " shewn the white men
the way up the river," which he believed they could not have found
but for him. — W. A.
VOL. I. C

18 PERILOUS ENTERPRISE OF THE LANDERS.
torrents of the tornado, they fearlessly descended the
unknown stream. In passing the confluence of the
Chadda, they ascertained, by paddling for some time
against the strong current of that river, that their course
could not be in that direction. On arriving near the
commencement of the Delta, where the numerous
diverging branches would have offered a choice of route
to the sea, they were captured by the Ibu traders at the
Kiri market ; and taken to the chief, Obi; who
delivered them for a ransom to " King Boy" of Brass*
town, near the mouth of the principal branch of the
Niger. This may be considered as a Providential
circumstance ; since, if they had passed unmolested, they
might have selected a channel more promising in appear
ance than the Rio Nun ; which would have led them by
an unfrequented outlet, to the wide Atlantic Ocean;
where they must inevitably have been lost, and their
glorious achievement would have perished with them.
Thus the solution of the problem which has excited
the interest of so many ages, has been accomplished by
the most modest of means, while many costly and more
imposing undertakings have failed. A solitary pedes
trian discovered the long hidden Niger in its course
through hitherto almost unheard of countries ; and two
unpretending young men, committing themselves in a
frail barque to its mysterious bosom, were borne by
it through unknown regions, a distance of more than
six hundred miles, to its termination in the vast and
" multitudinous" ocean.

MERCANTILE EXPEDITION FROM LIVERPOOL. 19
On the return of the Landers, from their remarkable
and successful discovery of the outlet of the Niger ; they
gave such a flourishing account of the quantity of
ivory to be found on its banks, that some enterprising
merchants of Liverpool — actuated by the spirit of legi
timate trade, which had assumed in that city, the excite
ment of the former traffic in human beings — fitted out
an expedition for the purpose of ascertaining and
opening out the resources of the country. In its com
mercial objects, this undertaking unfortunately proved
a failure ; since the quantity of ivory obtained, did not
at all justify the reports which had been given by
Lander. It must, however, be considered — in forming
an estimate of what might be obtained, by what he
saw — that in passing through the country the quantities
he found were doubtless, to a certain extent, accumula
tions from the want of demand, and the difficulty of
exportation. This mercantile expedition — which Captain, then
Lieutenant W. Allen, accompanied by order of the
Admiralty, for the purpose of surveying the river-
was composed of one small brig, to be stationed at
the mouth of the river, to receive the expected cargo of
ivory, and two steamers; the smaller of which — the
first iron vessel that had crossed the Atlantic — was
built by Mr. McGregor Laird, whose family were
large subscribers to the expedition, and who himself
bore a considerable share in the conduct of it, though
the nominal command was held by Mr. Richard Lander.
c 2

20 A COMMERCIAL FAILURE.
The variety of preparation required for an enterprise
of such a novel nature, together with the uncertainty of
the proper time for navigating the river, caused it to
arrive so late, that the flood had already passed its great
height; consequently the vessels had to navigate a
falling river, and were much impeded by shallows, so
that on reaching the confluence of the Chadda with the
Niger, one of them grounded, where she remained till
the river began to rise again the following year.
The late season was also the most unhealthy; the
fatal fever of the river soon attacked the crews, and out
of forty-seven officers and men in the two steamers, only
eight survived. Mr. Laird finding all hopes of a
successful speculation to be fallacious, returned to
England in the brig, which he safely navigated although
this was his first voyage. Mr. Lander made another
unsuccessful attempt in a commercial point of view;
but something was added to geography ; Lieutenant W.
Allen having — though unaided — extended his operations
above the confluence of the two rivers, to Rabba on the
Niger, and about eighty miles on the Chadda; the
principal points of which he laid down astronomically,
and gave such a sketch of the channels as proved of
some service to the succeeding navigators. Mr. Lander
on his return to Fernando Po in the Alburkah, hoping
to be more fortunate, hastily fitted out that vessel,
and sent her under the charge of Mr. Oldfield — the
surviving medical officer — to re-ascend the Niger ; and
he followed soon after with a launch and a canoe, and a

THE DEATH OF RICHARD LANDER. 21
further supply of goods, which he imprudently displayed
on a sand-bank before he had passed the Delta. He
thus excited the cupidity of the natives, who attacked
him from the banks, and in numerous canoes. Aban
doning the launch, he attempted to escape down the
river, keeping his pursuers at bay with a few guns, but
was unhappily wounded by a musket ball, and survived
but a few days after his arrival at Fernando Po, where
lie the mortal remains of this amiable and enterprising
traveller; surrounded now by many of our comrades,
victims of the fatal climate of the Niger.
Mr. Oldfield, after surmounting very great difficulties,
was obliged to abandon the river. The two steamers
were left to decay at Fernando Po, and thus terminated
this spirited, but unsuccessful and fatal enterprise.
The river had been subsequently navigated by Mr.
Becroft, a veteran on the coast of Africa, to whose
prompt exertions the 'Albert' was subsequently indebted
for salvation. He succeeded in getting fifty miles
beyond Rabba, when he was stopped by rocks and
rapids which it was found impossible to pass.
We have thus endeavoured briefly, to make the
reader acquainted with the progress of discovery, in
this part of Africa, previously to the fitting out of the
expedition of which the following pages are the narra
tive.

CHAPTER II.
The exploration of Africa desirable for nobler ends than the acquisition
of wealth— Sir Fowell Buxton proposes "The Remedy" — Formation
of the Society for the Suppression of the Slave Trade and the
civilization of Africa — Lord John Russell's views on the Slave
Trade — Proposes to send an Expedition to communicate with the
interior of Africa, and to establish commercial treaties — Size and
construction of the vessels — Arrangements for artificial ventilation
suggested by Dr. Reid — Armament — Paddle-box boats — Officers
appointed — Captain H. D. Trotter to command the expedition — The
'Wilberforce' touches at Kingston — Visit of the Viceroy — Proceed
ings at Kingston — Awkward mistake — The ' Wilberforce' arrives at
Woolwich — H.R.H. Prince Albert visits the vessels — His interest
in the expedition — Munificent present to the Commanders —
Commissioners appointed — Scientific gentlemen attached to the
mission— Detentions.
A thirst for discovery, and the spirit of commercial
enterprise, had stimulated all these attempts to penetrate
into the interior of Africa. But a new and a better
motive now arose to produce a far greater effort.
England had shown her sincerity in the cause which
she had undertaken — the suppression of the Slave Trade
— by devoting to it her treasures, the lives of her sons,
and the unremitting efforts of her Government. Melan-

HORRORS OF THE SLAVE TRADE. 23
choly proofs, however, were there, that so far from
succeeding, we had by the very attempt, dictated by the
purest humanity, become in some degree accomplices
in the cruelties of the trade, while it did not appear
that the number of victims was lessened. It was ably
shown in a work on the subject by Sir Fowell Buxton,
not only that the steps hitherto taken had not removed
this foul disease, but the very means which had been
employed for this end had very much aggravated the
horrors of it, as he clearly demonstrated by a variety of
harrowing details.
" It has been proved, by documents which cannot be
controverted, that for every village fired and every drove
of human beings marched in former times, there are now
double. For every cargo then at sea, two cargoes,
or twice the number in one cargo, wedged together in a
mass of living corruption, are now borne on the wave
of the Atlantic. But whilst the numbers who suffer
have increased, there is no reason to believe that the
sufferings of each have been abated, on the contrary.
The result is, that aggravated suffering reaches multi
plied numbers.
" I am driven to the sorrowful conviction, that the
year from September 1837 to September. 1838, is
distinguished beyond all other preceding years, for the
extent of the trade, for the intensity of its miseries, and
for the unusual havoc it makes on human life."*
* Buxton on the Slave Trade, p. 235, 257.

24 SIR F. BUXTON'S REMEDY.
Having thus shown the extent of the evil, this phi
lanthropist proposed his Remedy, which had for its
object the employment of her own resources for the
deliverance of Africa. — By,
" Impeding the Slave Trade,
" Establishing legitimate commerce,
" Promoting and teaching agriculture, and
" Imparting religious and moral instruction."
For these purposes, he suggested two distinct kinds of
preparation, viz :
" 1 . An augmentation of the naval force employed in
the suppression of the Slave Trade, and the concentra
tion of that force on the coast of Africa, thus forming a
chain of vessels from Gambia to Angola.
" 2. A chain of treaties with native powers in the
interior, &c."
With the view of furthering these objects, a society
was formed of noblemen and gentlemen — under the
Presidency of His Royal Highness Prince Albert — of
every shade of political opinion, which, indeed, was
swallowed up by the absorbing sympathy which all felt
in the holy cause of humanity. This was entitled, " A
Society for the Extinction of the Slave Trade and for the
Civilization of Africa." Having consulted on the best
means to be adopted for carrying out their views, a
deputation waited on Lord John Russell, Her Majesty's
principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, and recom
mended that- an expedition should be sent by Govern
ment, with Commissioners empowered by her Majesty

LORD JOHN RUSSELL'S STATEMENT. 25
to form treaties of commerce and for the suppression of
the external Slave Trade, with the most influential chiefs
on the coast of Africa and on the banks of the principal-
rivers. This movement was followed by Lord John Russell's
letter of 26th of December, 1839, to the Lords Commis
sioners of the Treasury, in which his Lordship, with his
usual perspicacity, gave a comprehensive view of the ap
palling increase of the Slave Trade ; and showed that
" the average number of slaves introduced into foreign
states or colonies in America and the West Indies, from
the western coast of Africa annually, exceeds 100,000."
But, "the number of slaves actually landed in the
importing countries, affords but a very imperfect indica
tion of the real extent of the calamities which this
traffic inflicts on its victims." " No fact can be more
certain, than that such an importation presupposes and
involves a waste of human life, and a sum of human
misery, proceeding from year to year without respite or
intermission, to such an extent, as to render the subject
the most painful of any which, in the survey of the
condition of mankind, it is possible to contemplate."
His Lordship, after observing that with the existing
powerful stimuli to the prosecution of the Slave Trade,
the whole British navy, employed as a marine guard,
would scarcely be sufficient for its repression, then states
that " Her Majesty's confidential advisers are compelled
to admit the conviction, that it is indispensable to enter
upon some new preventive system, calculated to arrest

26 H. M. GOVERNMENT SANCTIONS AN EXPEDITION.
the foreign Slave Trade in its source, by counteracting
the principles by which it is now sustained." For this
purpose he proposes to send an expedition, which should
ascend the River Niger and its great tributary streams,
by means of steam-boats, with the view of entering into
" commercial relations with the Chiefs and Powers on its
banks, within whose dominions the internal Slave Trade
of Africa is carried on, and the external Slave Trade
supplied with its victims."
The Lords of the Treasury agreed to sanction the
necessary estimates for such an expedition. But as there
were no vessels in Her Majesty's navy of proper size and
draught of water, suitable for this service, Captain Trotter
and Commander W. Allen were sent by the Admiralty
to the different sea-ports, to ascertain if any such could
be found for hire, with a view to save expense. This
search having proved fruitless, Captain Sir Edward
Parry was directed by the Admiralty to report on the
requisite number, size, and equipment of the vessels,
" in order to afford a reasonable prospect of success in
the object which Her Majesty's Government had in
view, in sending an expedition up the River Niger."
In consequence of his recommendation, a contract
was entered into with Mr. John Laird of Birkenhead,
to construct three steamers of iron, expressly for this
service. " The two larger to have very roomy and airy
accommodations for their officers and crews, and to
be exactly of the same size, rig and power, with all
their stores precisely alike. The third vessel, intended

DIMENSIONS OF THE VESSELS. 27
for detached service, to be much smaller and of lighter
draught of water, but to have her stores of the same
description as the other vessels."
They were accordingly built of the following dimen
sions : Albert
and Wilberforce. Soudan.
Length on deck . . . .139 ft. 4 in. 113 ft. 4 in.
Breadth of beam ... 27 „ 22 „
Depth of hold .... 1 1 „ 8 „ 8 „
Tonnage, about .... 457 „ 249
Draught of water when-i
ready for the outward V 6 „ 4 „ 6 „
passage . . . . '
In preparing vessels for such a peculiar service, va
rious considerations were necessary. They were built of
iron in order to have a greater buoyancy, and still further
to enable them to go into shallow water, they were per
fectly flat-bottomed, and without the keel fore and aft,
as in ordinary vessels. While to supply this deficiency
at sea, where it would be of serious inconvenience, two
thick boards, nearly seven feet long and five feet deep,
were made to slide up and down in water-tight cases in
the middle of the vessels : that is, in the line of the ordi
nary keel, and placed at a suitable distance from forwards
and aft. These were called " sliding keels," and were
intended to keep the vessels from being blown to lee
ward ; which it is evident would be the case with flat-
bottoms not provided with such a contrivance.

28 THEIR PECULIAR CONSTRUCTION.
To aid this, there was another plan, by means of
which the rudder could be elongated vertically in a
" seaway," to assist in the steerage when the after part
should be lifted by a sea, so that otherwise the rudder
would be out of water; or, in navigating the river
among shoals and sand-banks when the sliding keels were
up, this " rudder tail," by being raised to a horizontal
position, would add materially to the power of the
rudder. To secure the vessels as much as possible against the
consequences of striking on a rock, they were divided
into compartments by strong iron partitions. In the
larger vessels there were four of these, making five
water-tight divisions ; any one of which might have
been filled with water, without its communicating with
the others ; thereby very much lessening the chance of
sinking. These however, had the very great disadvantage of
cutting off the free circulation of air throughout the
vessels. To remedy this defect, Dr. Reid devised a
system of ventilation by means of fanners, worked by
the engine when in action, by the current when lying in
the river, or by hand if necessary ; air was thus to be
diffused through tubes to every part of the vessels. As
however, the atmosphere on the coast of Africa, and
especially in the River Niger, was supposed to be charged
with deleterious gases, the air before transmission to
"between decks," was made to pass through a large
iron chest, placed on deck, and capable of containing

VENTILATING APPARATUS. 29
between two and three thousand cubic feet. The air in
passing over chemical and other substances placed in
this, was supposed to be deprived of its impurities, and
in a great degree of its noxious properties.
In the ' Wilberforce,' however, it was found that a
sufficient supply of air was not to be had by using the
"plenum impulse," or sending in fresh air. The con
trary or " vacuum," was therefore generally employed,
to exhaust the foul air from all the remote recesses and
stagnant corners of the ship. By these means what
ever action took place, was certainly beneficial ; whereas
the "plenum" had no appreciable effect. Indeed the
whole benefit — although the system was good in theory
— bore no proportion to the disadvantage of occupying
so much valuable space, or the still greater evil of
detention in the preparation of the apparatus.
It is, however, easy to pronounce judgment after
experience has been gained. The greatest praise and
most grateful acknowledgements are due to the talented
inventor, for the zeal and solicitude he displayed in trying
to avert, by every means that science could devise, the
baneful effects of the climate which too surely awaited
us. The error was in proposing to dole out the "pa
bulum vitas" by two small apertures to so many gasping
throats, for whom the hatchways are not large enough
in a hot climate.
Even in timber-built ships, there is always a con
siderable amount of deviation in the steering compasses,
caused by the attraction of the large quantity of iron

30 CORRECTION OF THE COMPASSES.
used in the construction, and especially in the guns
of a ship of war ; now as the vessels of the Niger
expedition were wholly of iron, the amount of attraction
was so great as to render the compasses useless without
the application of some corrective. This was done on the
plan of Professor Airey, the Astronomer Royal, by placing
two powerful bar-magnets in such positions, with respect
to the compass, as to counteract the effect of the mass
of iron, and to coerce it into the correct magnetk
direction. To ascertain the proper positions in which
these magnets should be placed, the vessel was swung to
all the points, in still water, comparing at the same time
a compass on board with one on shore, and altering the
position of the magnets till the compasses agreed on all
the bearings.
Each of the larger vessels had two engines, of thirty-
five horse power ; that is, an aggregate power of seventy
horses, and bunkers to contain coals for fifteen days of
twelve hours' steaming. The small vessel, one engine,
of thirty-five horse power, and coals for ten days of
twelve hours. The fire-places were adapted for burning
wood. The engines being precisely similar in all these
vessels, much space in stowage and expense were
saved, as a smaller number of duplicate parts was
required. It was not deemed advisable to have engines of great
power ; because, in the first place, speed was not necessary
in navigating an almost unknown river, where the
numerous sand-banks and rocks required the utmost cir-

THE ARMAMENT. 31
cumspection and caution. Larger engines would also
have reduced the space for coals, while they would have
consumed a much greater quantity. It must, however,
be confessed, that the speed of the three vessels was less
than it ought to have been. This was very apparent on
our leaving England, when heavily laden ; and little im
provement was observable when they became light,
causing our voyage out to be unusually long. There
were, however, so many desiderata in such an under
taking, that it was difficult to adapt the vessels to every
circumstance. Although the mission was essentially one of peace, it
was necessary it should have an imposing appearance.
The armament of the two larger vessels was in each,
one long brass twelve-pounder, two brass twelve-pounder
howitzers, and four brass one-pounder swivels, besides
musketoons and small arms. The ' Soudan' had one
howitzer, and two swivels of similar calibre.
Instead of the ordinary covering to the paddle-boxes,
Captain Smith's boats were adopted, which lying bottom
upwards, served as a covering to the paddle-wheels, and
being large and buoyant boats, easily turned over and
lowered into the water, they proved of very great
service, especially in the operation of bringing wood
for fuel, &c.
There were several other ingenious contrivances, but
their questionable utility did not compensate for the
expense and sacrifice of time in preparing them.
They were square-rigged foreward and schooner aft,

32 LIGHTNING CONDUCTORS.
with lofty masts, but from the peculiar form of the
bottom, they could not be good sailers ; and the want of
the regular keel made them excessively leewardly.
They were all, however, admirable sea-boats, as was
proved by the little ' Soudan,' in a heavy gale of wind,
when much larger vessels suffered severely.
There was little or no danger to be apprehended from
lightning, even in the tornadoes, since, being of iron, the
vessels presented so large a surface to the electric fluid,
as to neutralize its effects by diffusion. They were,
however, supplied with wire-rope conductors.
The vessels were launched at different periods in 1 840;
first the ' Soudan,' then the ' Albert,' and lastly, the
' Wilberforce,' on the 10th of October. They were
taken into Trafalgar Dock Liverpool, for the purpose of
fitting the rigging, engines, &c.
By November, most of the officers appointed to
the expedition had joined their respective ships, and the
greater part of the crews had entered. We proceeded
with our operations undisturbed and unnoticed.
As it was important that Captain Trotter should
be as early as possible at Woolwich, for the purpose
of completing the arrangements for the armament, &c,
all hands were occasionally employed to expedite the
preparations of the ' Albert' and ' Soudan ;' considerable
delay, however, arose from the novelty of the apparatus
for ventilation.
The ' Soudan' sailed for the Thames on the 28th of
December; the 'Albert' followed, 11th of January, 1841;

LEAVING LIVERPOOL. 33
and on Wednesday, the 17th of February, the ' Wilber
force' sailed from Liverpool for Kingston Harbour;
Commander W. Allen having permission to visit Dublin
for the purpose of consulting Professor Lloyd on the
use of a newly-invented magnetical instrument.
The weather was unusually beautiful for the time of
the year, a brilliant sun shone on our first step in a good
cause, and cheered all hands with bright anticipations for
the future. If omens were to be taken, our little voyage
to Kingston was an epitome of our after proceedings.
Pleasant breezes, and a sea as smooth as glass enabled
the 'Wilberforce,' on leaving Liverpool — being very light
— to slip through the water at such a rate, that our crew
began already to flatter themselves that their ship was a
" clipper." But we had hardly cleared Holyhead, when a south-
wester came on, with a short chopping head sea, causing
the vessel to tumble about in such an extraordinary way,.
and each sea that struck her, gave such a rude shock,
that frequently during the night, the crew rushed on deck
supposing she was thumping on a sand-bank. The quick
uneasy motion, owing to the peculiar build and light
draught of water, made many old seamen feel sensations
they had long forgotten. To add to our difficulties, a
part of the engine was discovered to be out of order in the
night : and while we were obliged to " lie to " for it to
be replaced, the strong wind and heavy sea drove our
flat-bottomed vessel to leeward at a very rapid rate ; so
that in the morning we found ourselves in Drogheda Bay,
VOL. I. D

34 VISIT TO THE ' WILBERFORCE.
and had sight of the low land through the fog just in
time to haul off shore, and steam against a strong head
wind and sea. Seeing, however, some vessels of much
greater draft of water than ourselves steering into
Skerries Harbour, we followed, and soon anchored
in a perfectly smooth basin. The sudden relief was
such as we thought only a landsman could have ap
preciated. On the following day, we coasted along by
Rock Bill, Ireland's eye, &c, and passing the beautiful
Bay of Dublin, arrived in Kingston Harbour.
The number of visitors who daily crowded on board,
brought from Dublin by the newly constructed railroad,
testified the interest taken in the expedition ; forming
a contrast to the monotonous time passed in Trafalgar
Dock at Liverpool, where our existence seemed to be
unknown ; and certainly if the good wishes and bene
dictions of the fair daughters of Erin could have ensured
our success, they were not wanting.
During our stay, we were honoured with a visit of
inspection by His Excellency Lord Ebrington, the Lord
Lieutenant, and suite, who examined every part of the
vessel, and were much interested by the novelty of the
arrangements. A ludicrous circumstance took place, which was after
wards a subject of frequent joking — among his messmates
— with the innocent cause of it. The marine placed as
sentry on the gangway, had orders to keep the " finest
pisantry" from crowding on board, while we were lying
alongside the pier, preparing for the Viceroy. Just as a

INSPECTION BY H.R.H. PRINCE ALBERT. 35
high dignitary of the church, attended by a party of
clergymen, was going to step on board, the sentry
stopped him, saying : " You cannot pass, Sir." In vain
some of the clergy whispered to him : " It is His Grace,"
&c, &c. The stupid sentinel having never heard of such
a person, nor was he acquainted with any official cocked
hat of such a shape, said : " I can't help it, Sir ; none
but respectable people can come on board." One of
the officers perceiving it, quickly rectified the mistake.
His Grace expressed himself much gratified by the in
spection of the various contrivances.
We sailed from Kingston harbour on the 27th of Feb
ruary, and arrived at Woolwich on the 4th of March ;
having touched on our way at Plymouth and Ports
mouth. Found here the 'Albert' and ' Soudan,' getting
ready for sea.
The near departure of the expedition excited such
general and increasing interest, that great numbers of
visitors came daily on board the 'Albert' principally, as she
was in order. On the 23rd of March, H.R.H. Prince
Albert did us the honour of inspecting the expedition.
The ' Wilberforce' was not in such a state of forwardness
as the other two vessels ; having arrived later, we were
in the confusion of preparation, with caulkers and other
artificers on board, which was explained to His Royal
Highness, whoj however, with his usual gracious con
descension, expressed his intention of visiting all the
vessels. The officers had the honour of being presented to His
d 2

36 LIMITED CREWS.
Royal Highness, by Captain Trotter, on the quarter-deck
of his ship. As another proof of the generous sympathy
of this truly amiable Prince, we may here mention that
he presented a handsome gold chronometer, by the best
maker, to each of the three Captains.
We were here unremittingly occupied in completing
the fittings, stores, &c, from the dockyard; and the
armament from the arsenal. The apparatus for venti
lation being still a source of considerable delay.
On a trial in the Thames, with a draught of 5 ft.
9 in. aft, and 4 ft. 11 in. forward, the 'Wilberforce'
was found to have a speed, on an average, of seven
knots ; which was considered as much as could safely be
used in an unknown river. Such a rate was not, how
ever, to be expected with a greater draught of water, as
it unfortunately proved.
As the vessels could not carry fuel for so long a
voyage, coals were sent to the Cape de Verd Islands,
Sierra Leone, and Cape Coast Castle. A fast sailing
transport was also hired to take further supplies of pro
visions, stores, and coals, to enable them to fill up at the
mouth of the Niger, and also relieve them there of such
things as would not be required in the river, but which
were to be deposited at Fernando Po, to await our
return. In sending vessels to a climate known to be fraught
with so much danger to the European constitution, it was
necessary to limit the white crews to the smallest possible
number, consistent with efficiency. The regulation for

NATURALISTS. 37
the usual complements for ships of war of their class
was, therefore, departed from ; and the crews of all the
vessels were composed of officers, petty officers, and
artificers, with a very few able seamen and marines, and a
small party of sappers and miners. All were volunteers ;
and double pay was granted from the time of sailing.
Many of these enterprising men having become even
tually victims to the destroying fever, we have subjoined,
in the Appendix, a list of all the persons who were
employed in the Niger ; and it may afford even at this
distance of time, a melancholy interest to numerous
relatives, to know the circumstances connected with the
termination of their earthly career.
The three naval Commanders, together with Mr.
William Cook,* were appointed by Her Majesty as
her Commissioners, empowered to make Treaties with
the native chiefs on the coast of Africa, and prin
cipally on the banks of the Niger, for the suppression
of the external Slave Trade, and for the establishment
of lawful commerce.
Besides the complement of officers appointed by the
Government, several men of science, sent out by the
African Civilization Society, accompanied the expedition,
for the purpose of obtaining information respecting the
countries we might visit.
These were : Dr. Vogel, botanist ; Dr. Stanger,
» This gentleman was honourably known to the public for his
humane exertions in saving the lives of the crew of the ' Kent' India-
man, burnt at sea.

38 AFRICAN AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
geologist and explorer ; Mr. Roscher, miner and
mineralogist; Mr. Frazer, from the Zoological Society,
London ; and Mr. John Ansell, collector of plants.
The African Civilization Society, besides contributing
largely to furnish extra surgical and scientific instru
ments and medicines, so as to increase* the resources of
the medical men for the benefit of the natives of Africa,
placed at the disposal of the senior officer £1000, to be
employed in aid of exploring parties, or in any other
way that might advance the objects of the expedition.
The Society in fact, shewed the greatest willingness
to no-operate with the Commanders in forwarding the
preparations, for which purpose a sub-committee was
expressly formed.
As auxiliary to the benevolent purposes proposed by
the African Society — but not officially connected with it,
nor with the expedition to be sent out by H.M. Govern
ment ; an Agricultural Society was formed, with the inten
tion of establishing a model farm in such a locality as
might be selected by the Commissioners. The Admi
ralty granted a passage to Mr. Alfred Carr, a West
Indian gentleman of colour, who was engaged by the
Agricultural Society as superintendent of the farm, and
also permitted the stores, implements, &c, to be taken
on board the vessels. Moreover, the Government sanc
tioned the Commissioners giving their attention to the
interests of the Agricultural Society, in selecting and
purchasing a spot suitable for the experiment.
Thursday, April 22. — H.M. steam-vessels, 'Albert

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. 39
and Wilberforce,' left Woolwich, the latter drawing 6 feet
aft, and 5 ft. 8 inch, forward. After touching at Ports
mouth, to fill up with coals, they arrived at Devonport.
H.M. steam-vessel ' Soudan,' Commander Bird Allen,
had preceded us on the 30th of March for Devonport,
and finally from England — in company with our trans
port, the ' Harriot' — on the 1 7 th of April ; having orders
to make the best of their way to Porto Grande, in the
Island of St. Vincent, one of the Cape de Verds, our
first rendezvous.
It was originally intended, that we should have sailed
from England, so as to have entered the River Niger in
March, which month was considered to be compara
tively healthy ; it was also believed, that although the
river was then at the lowest, a sufficient channel would
have been found for us to ascend. Subsequent informa
tion, shewed that the beginning of July, was the earliest
time that the river could be entered, without risking the
health of the crews by detention in the Delta.* This
conclusion was arrived at from intelligence having been
received, that the ' Ethiope' merchant steamer, drawing
about the same as the vessels of the expedition, had not
been able to get beyond the Delta, for want of water,
until the beginning of July.
Now, that we were ready however, contrary winds
caused a still further delay.

* Commander W. Allen, although he had previously been in the
Niger, had no personal knowledge of its channels in the dry season.

CHAPTER III.
Departure from England — Madeira — Hospitable reception— A fair Nun
— Santa Cruz — Teneriffe — Spanish beggars — Dress and pecu
liarities of the People — Iglesia Concepcion — Extraordinary Paint
ing — Fish-market — Convents — Monks — Peasants — Cochineal
insect procured for introduction into West Africa — Fertility of the
Soil — Remarks on the growth and cultivation of the Opuntia Tuna
and Cochineal — Museum — Remains of the Guanches — Arrival at St.
Vincent — Cape de Verd Islands — Meet the 'Soudan' and 'Harriot'—
Their stormy passage — Appearance of St. Vincent — Fort Major
turned laundress — Magnetical observations — Botany and Geology of
the Island — Vaccination introduced — Shooting " Cabras bravas" or
Wild Goats — Its dangers — Fossil shells — Curious spider's nest-
Seining — The doctor fish — Melancholy accident.
On May 12th at 6.50 p.m. the 'Albert' and 'Wilber
force' sailed from Devonport. In passing the several
line-of-battle ships anchored in Plymouth Sound, they
did us the honour to man the rigging, and give us three
hearty cheers, with which flattering mark of sympathy,
crowning the many we had already received from our
country, we took leave of the shores of England.
We had a favouring breeze, and with sails and steam
— economizing the latter when the wind freshened—we;

ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA. 41
made steady, though rather slow progress, in this first
stage of our voyage ; which had all the monotony of fine
weather. There was nothing seen of interest, except
now and then a dolphin, a few Algce, Nautili, and the
occasional phosphorescence of the sea, which was a subject
of curiosity and admiration to those who had not
witnessed it before.
2\st. — Arrived in the evening at Madeira — our first
stopping place for coals, &c. On rounding the eastern
part of this lovely island, the admiration of all was kept
in full excitement as we passed the numerous craggy
points and opened little valleys and ravines, where every
available spot is devoted to the production of the wine so
highly prized in England.
The dazzling white quintas, convents and churches
scattered over the base of the mountain, which rises to
the clouds in sullen grandeur behind this smiling and
varied scene, formed a powerful contrast with what our
eyes had recently been familiar with on the shores of
our own island ; and this was carried to the utmost as
the town of Funchal burst on our view, rivalling what
ever has obtained the meed of celebrity in picturesque
beauty in any part of the world.
Nor is the interest diminished on landing, to find a
clean, well paved, Portuguese town; with suburban
streets, in many places, shaded from the powerful rays of
the sun by trellis-work, over which luxuriant vines creep
and cling, with their pendant fruit-promising branches ;
while here and there the admixture of orange-trees,

42 MADEIRA.
bananas and pine-apples, with our own European fruits;
astonishes the novice, who little anticipates so great a
change in the botanical character. We visited again and
with pleasure some of the many interesting localities in
the neighbourhood ; the Camara de Lobos ; the mountain
' Jardin' of Mr. Veitch ; the Church of Nossa ' Senhora
do Monte' — where also is situated the beautiful and
hospitable residence of Mr. Webster Gordon — over
looking, from its elevated position, the town and road
stead of Funchal ; but above all the far-famed " Corral,"
where nature has concentrated a picture of such com
bined wildness and grandeur, as she only can display.
Madeira is so well known, and much of its flora,
especially, has been so well described by Mr. Lowe, that
it is unnecessary to enter on any description of either
here, particularly as our stay was so short. Dr. Vogel
had indeed, only time to take a few short excursions,
and have the gratification of observing the habitat of
many interesting indigenous species. But it may
easily be imagined, that a locality so favoured by tem
perature, soil, aspect and great variety of elevation,
would afford an inexhaustible field of interest to
botanical researches. He, however, considered the flora
of the island to be of a south European character, only
a few plants, chiefly of Dracosnee, pointing to an extra
European mixture.
We received very great kindness and hospitality from
our countrymen resident on this island ; and our
grateful acknowledgments are particularly due to Mr,

A FAIR NUN. 43
Stothard, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, to Mr.
Webster Gordon, and to Mr. Veitch. At a handsome
entertainment given by the first, in honour of our
beloved Queen's birth-day, we were nearly deprived
of the pleasure of meeting the Commander of a
Portuguese man-of-war brig, by a little misunder
standing, of which we were the innocent cause. It was,
however, very easily remedied, and the gallant officer
made a speech highly complimentary to the British
navy, in which he said he was proud of the honour of
having served under Sir Charles Napier.
Before saying adieu to this lovely island, curiosity led
us to the convent, in the hope of seeing the once
celebrated nun — Maria Clementina. We were informed
she was no longer there ; but our guide directed us to
inquire for a Senorita Jeanevelle, who made her appear
ance, and looked interesting even in her sombre attire.
She was rather fat, very fair, and certainly forty, with
brilliant eyes, expressing anything but a predilection for
monastic life.
In purchasing some very pretty feather flowers, we
embraced the opportunity to ask her if she was ever
allowed to go into society. She replied, that, of
late, the discipline had not been so strict; and when
very unwell, they were permitted sometimes to visit their
families. A sigh, which accompanied this statement,
revealed more than words could express, how little after
all her heart was in the seclusion of the convent.
Tuesday, May 25.— The 'Albert' and 'Wilberforce'

44 SANTA CRUZ.
proceeded on their voyage to Teneriffe, where we arrived
on the 27th, in the evening.
There was of course a general landing as soon as
the visit of the ' Health Boat' allowed communication.
The various novelties in the island being of great
interest, and as our time was but short, all were anxious
to profit by it. We took in coals, verified again the
rates of the chronometers, made magnetical observations,
&c. ; while those who were not engaged in the imme
diate duties of the ship, eagerly commenced researches
in their favourite pursuits.
The town of Santa Cruz, like most of the Spanish
settlements, has a very clean and regular appearance,
being built in squares or quadras, the houses neatly
painted with light yellow, or whitewashed, the external
raised work of the verandahs being for the most part
green. The town extends in a direction from east to west,
and looks well from the shipping. The landing at the
Mole is sometimes attended with difficulty ; and on
most occasions, persons must expect to be more or less
wet with the surf which eddies round the point.
The stranger no sooner puts his foot on shore, than
he is surrounded by a crowd of idle striplings, who are
ever officiously ready to proffer themselves as guides to
the hotel, or to procure horses, &c. It is vain to select
one ; the crowd follows and thickens, to his great dis
comfiture, and amid a running fire of Spanish juvenile
wit, he gladly takes shelter at the English Hotel. Here

DRESS OF THE CAMPANEROS. 45
his followers congregate outside, in the hope of benefitting
by a little of the spare cash, which they consider
Englishmen to be so abundantly blessed with. Another
annoyance is the number of beggars, chiefly aged or
diseased, who, with astonishing quickness, find out the
arrival of los Ingleses, and come to solicit their mite.
A mere trifle satisfies, and is, in most cases, of great
assistance to these unfortunates.
The people have a very healthy appearance, nor does
the indifferent food of the lower orders appear to operate
against them much in this respect ; although it is said
that the major part of the poorer classes cannot afford to
live at a higher rate than a halfpenny or penny per
diem. Their diet consists in a species of lupin, and
fish, with some fruit in certain seasons. As to clothing,
the climate enables them to consider as superfluous all
but the most scanty amount of garments ; and numbers
of children may everywhere be seen, with no other
wearing apparel than a coarse straw hat, and the tat
tered remains of an old shirt, so entirely a thing of
shreds and patches as to require no small address to
keep it together in such a manner as may indicate its
original form. The holiday attire of the Campafieros is
a blue or green cloth jacket, with numerous small
globular buttons, a pair of velveteen inexpressibles,
slashed at the side, and reaching half way down the leg ;
under these they generally wear a pair of coarse linen
drawers, which are somewhat longer : the stockings are
thick, and come over the shoe, but are without soles ;

46 CHURCHES.
sometimes boots made of goat-skins, and ornamented
with red, are worn : A high-crowned hat, with a tassel
or two, completes the costume. The towns-people do not
differ very much from English in their style of dress,
except that the poorer women wear a square light drab
mantilla, edged with white, under a straw hat; and
the Sefioras and Sefioritas one of silk, which — spread over
the head, and falling down gracefully on the person —
has a pretty effect. We need scarcely say that the
Softer sex have that peculiar and striking carriage;
which is so much noticed in the mother country. The
features of the people are good, especially the eyes, which
are dark and lustrous.
The churches, two in number, are like most of these
edifices in Catholic countries, the altars being gorgeously
fitted up, nor are the usual rich decorations of Nuestra
Sefiora forgotten.
The Iglesia de la Concepcion possesses some objects
of interest to an Englishman ; — the two flags taken in
the unsuccessful attack made by Nelson on the town,
when he lost his arm. They are placed over an altar on
the left-hand side on entering the church, and have
suffered greatly from the ravages of time: so much, so
indeed, that it is reported to be the intention of the autho
rities to enclose them in glass to prevent further decay.
Many of our countrymen on visiting this, appear to
be chagrined that the flag, which has braved a thousand
years, the " battle and the breeze," should be in such
hands ; indeed, on two occasions, if the cicerone state-

PICTURE BY RAPHAEL. 47
ments can be credited, attempts have been made to
remove them clandestinely. This feeling, however, is
neither liberal nor creditable, since every nation unites
in the sentiment, that those emblems which have
been honourably won, should be held sacred. In the
present case, it only causes the good people of Santa
Cruz to imagine we feel too keenly a loss which arose
from precipitancy ; as it is well known they were picked
up on the beach, where they were left in the hurry and
bustle of the re-embarkation. In the same church is a
painting, asserted by the guide to be a work of Raphael.
It is a gross conception of Purgatory, representing
our Saviour at the upper part of the picture, and in
the blood which flows from the places where he was
nailed to the cross, a woman is seen besprinkling her
hands ; a little below, an angel is employed weighing
souls in a balance, while a destroying angel stands,
prepared with drawn and uplifted sword, to " commit"
the sinner on his sentence.
The holy fathers occupy a conspicuous place in the
lower part of the picture, being ranged on each side of
the flames of Purgatory, ready, or in the act of helping
the unfortunates out of the burning fire. One of them
is seen tugging away at the ends of a string of beads
and a crozier, which he had thrown on the neck of
a little child. We also noticed that the fraternity —
known by the shaven head — appeared to take the
matter of passing through the ordeal, much more
coolly than could have been expected from the nature
of the element by which they were surrounded.

48 FISHING. PECULIAR TORCHES. FRUITS.
The fish-market, which is on the left-hand side of the
road leading up from the Mole, appeared to be well sup
plied with a sort of mackerel and some species of bream,
one of which is much esteemed. The former are tough
and of indifferent flavour, they are called ' cavallos,'
which answers to our name of horse-mackerel, but they
are only one-third the size. The fish is mostly pro
cured in the Bay during the night, and as lights are
employed to allure them, the effect of the numerous
flambeaux on all sides is very beautiful.
These are made of a sort of pine, containing a large
quantity of resinous matter, which emits a brilliant
light, and are held on the gunwale of the boat. Lines
and hooks are used, and not the spear, as in most
countries where such methods of alluring the fish are
practised. The wood just referred to, is also most
serviceable for the torches of travellers at night, and
possesses this valuable quality — the heavier the rain,
the brighter it burns ; indeed it can scarcely be extin
guished by immersion in water.
The gardens in the neighbourhood abound in good
and delicious fruit ; the orange, banana, and pa-paw—
Papaya carica; the green fruit of the last is used
medicinally, a single drop of the milky fluid, which
exudes on puncturing the young fruit, being esteemed a
specific for the cure of worms. When quite ripe, it is
a grateful, rich fruit. The black fig is met with every
where in the ravines, and appears to be in a wild state.
There are several convents, that of San Francisco
being the largest. They are no longer what they were*

49
the haunts of mingled charity and vice; since the
decline of Don Carlos's power in the mother country,
they exist only in name. The numerous monks are
now let loose on society, the Government allowing them
a dollar per diem ; which, if paid regularly, would more
than suffice for their maintenance : the state of the
exchequer in Spain does not, however, admit of this,
and, as a consequence, they have become a pest to the
place, since even their learning and outward pretensions
to religion cannot hide their depravities.
The rides and walks in the island are very fine ;
particularly the road to Orotava, a little mountain
village about ten miles from Sta. Cruz. Some of the
ravines in the immediate vicinity are also well worth
a visit, the scenery being wild and striking ; many of the
rocks are naturally excavated. Some varieties of
cactus and aloe, as well as the Euphorbia Canariensis,
are abundant ; the latter is used by the natives to
produce the effect of blisters, they call it Tabriba, the
juice more diluted is said to be a useful remedy for
obstinate ulcers, &c. The houses of the small farmers
are very clean. We were induced to enter one, but
even here we found the faithful dog ready to dispute
our approach, until a pretty sample of the Pisanos,
called out, " A'guarde perro estos son amigos, Ingleses,"
"Take care dog, these are friends, they are English."
We met with a hospitable reception. The good folks
pressed us to partake of the simple dinner, which being
declined, some nice fruit was set before us. The ox
VOL. I. e

50 SYSTEM OF FARMING.
is here still used for thrashing corn, which is done by
driving two or more, round a circle, over the sheaves.
It was gratifying to notice, that the Mosaic injunction
was still observed — " Thou shall not muzzle the ox that
treadeth the corn." The dromedary is much employed
here in conveying heavy goods, or for long journeysi
They were brought originally from Fuerta Ventura)
where they are said to be numerous, and found in
a wild state. Large panniers are suspended across the
hump, on which the bundles are secured. They carry
a great weight, are very hardy, enduring and patient.
In general a few bells are suspended to the neck,
causing, as the animal moves, a not unpleasant
tinkling. Corn is grown in small patches all over the mountain
sides, but as these are steep, it becomes necessary to
raise up thick stone parapets, and the debris falling
down and filling up the interstices to a level, enables
the farmer to cultivate it. The soil is naturally rich,
and well it is so, for the farmer is mostly poor, and
without means to expend in improving. The system is
bad. A proprietor allows the tenant the use of the
land, for which the latter tills, sows, and reaps the
produce ; and, after all, only receives one half the sum
it may realise. If a dry season occur, which is too
often the case, the poor farmer is ruined. The owner
of the estate has no consideration. We were informed
by an Englishman the case of one of his tenants, who
had been rather unfortunate, yet by an advance of

THE COCHINEAL INSECTS. 51
twelve dollars, the poor man was enabled to proceed
with his labours, which remunerated all a hundred fold.
Had it been a Spanish proprietor, the farmer would have
been dismissed, and both parties would have suffered.
Of late years the cultivation of the Cactus Cocci or
Opuntia Tuna, and the Cochineal insect, have greatly
superseded that of corn. The plants, indeed, are
found to suit the climate, and are less precarious. The
Opuntia Tuna is a species of Cactus, with broad,
thick, oval leaves, very succulent, and covered with
little masses of prickles, which irritate and inflame the
skin where they come in contact. The plant requires
three years to attain its proper size and growth. The
Cochineal insect, Coccus Cacti, from which the beautiful
purple dye is produced, and for whose nutrition the
plant is cultivated, was originally and exclusively con
fined to South America. It was only introduced a few
years ago into this island as a curiosity ; and now it
forms one of most valuable exports. The female,
which alone yields the dye, is, when full grown, a
small, oval insect, covered with a whitish powder. At
first it is quite a microscopic object, but it gradually;
though quickly enlarges, until it becomes about the size
of a grain of wheat, rather rounder and thicker when it
is matured, and fit to be removed.
The gathering is at two seasons of the year, June and
September ; the insects are then dried over a gentle heat
till the juices are nearly, if not entirely dissipated. After
being sprinkled with vinegar, and again dried in the sun,
E 2

52 PECULIARITIES OF THE INSECT.
they are ready for exportation. Ninety full sized insects
weigh forty-eight grains, and after dessication, twenty-
five; this gives about twenty-seven thousand to the
pound of prepared insects.
They are propagated at different seasons, as the insects
happen to be matured. A few full sized females are
placed in a little piece of green gauze, and fastened to
the cactus by one of the prickles ; in a few days, if the
weather be fine, the little insects — which are viviparous—'
begin to come forth, each one in a very fine transparent
silky looking cocoon, which it almost immediately throws
off. The female soon settles, but the male being winged
moves about for the necessary offices. The former
appears to change the cuticle at least once if not oftener,
and it is this and the remains of the cocoons which form
the chief part of the powdery substance which covers
them. The female never stirs from the spot where it
first commences to feed. The emigration of the young
insect, as mentioned in popular works, by means of the
spider's web, may occasionally take place, but not often,
as they mostly settle on the nearest spot, from which
they have no reason to move. It is probably sometimes
wafted by the soft filaments of the cocoons — in which
it is embedded — to a different plant, to which these
fibres then readily adhere.
Before leaving Teneriffe, we visited the Museum
which has been formed with some difficulty, and con
tains many objects of deep interest; among these
may be mentioned the skeleton of a Guancho, the

THE GUANCHES. 53
extinct Aboriginal race of this and the neighbouring
Islands. Although there is reason to believe that this beautiful
Archipelago was not unknown to the ancients, it is only
in the middle of the fourteenth century that we begin to
find any precise information relating to them. In 1341,
an expedition from Portugal under the auspices of Don
Alphonso IV., visited the islands, after which they were
again lost sight of until the conquest of them by Bethen-
court, the chronicles of which were written by his chap
lains, Bontier and le Verrier, in 1402 ; these, and a
variety of other authors of the period, or soon after the
conquest, have furnished Monsieur Sabin Berthelot with
materials for two very interesting papers,* from which
we have taken the liberty of abstracting the following
brief notice.
"These islands were, doubtless, peopled from the
adjacent continent ; and the Guanches or aboriginal
inhabitants have left traces of resemblance. It is,
therefore, presumable that they were inhabited long
before our era, by people of Lybian race, who preserved
until the close of the fifteenth century in their original
purity, those primitive manners of which we find traces
in the most remote antiquity."
All the authors who have written on the subject of
the Guanches about the time of the conquest, give a
romantic description of their chivalrous character ; of the
* Memoires de la Societe Ethnologique de Paris,

54 FEATS OF AGILITY.
virtue and beauty of the women, and the great strength,
courage, and agility of the men ; skeletons of the latter
which have been found, justify the account of their great
stature. Among the skulls found in the caverns of Tene
riffe, one was very remarkable for the strength of the
bones, and especially for its almost gigantic dimensions,
which show that it must have belonged to an athletic
frame, much above the ordinary height. It bore marks
of many wounds, one of these was most extraordinary,
and proved the robust organisation of the individual;
this was a depression — caused doubtless, by the blow of a
club or stone — extending along the inferior and exterior
angle of the parietal bone, immediately behind its arti
culation with the temporal. It was so deep that the
thumb might be placed in it, notwithstanding which, it
appeared that the warrior must have lived long after the
cure of this fracture, as all traces of it had been effaced
by the reorganization of the bone. Their extraordinary
agility and address are shown by an account given by Cada
Mosto, who says that he saw at Madeira, a Canarianj
who engaged to place himself at eight or ten paces from
three men, who should each, as well as himself, be pro*
vided with twelve oranges, which he would throw at
them successively without missing one ; while he would
ward off with his hands all those which they should
throw. No person would try the experiment* from a
confidence that he would be able to perform this extra
ordinary feat. Galindo also says, that it was a customary
exercise among them, for two men to hold a long lance

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GUANCHES. 55
as high as they could above their heads ; while their
companions would clear by successive bounds, three lances
so held at different parallel distances. This interesting
race is said to be extinct, in its purity, but their de
scendants are found mixed with Spanish blood ; Monsieur
Berthelot, says to their honour, they have more of the
characteristics of the former than of the latter, in their
carriage, lineaments, manners, and customs. Some few
words of the ancient language are found mixed with
the Castillian, and many of the proper names perpetuate
the fame of their heroes. The Guanches of Teneriffe are
— more than those of the other islands — distinguished by
the preservation of the virtues of their ancestors ; as
they, also, the longest maintained their independence.*
Some portion of the population, even to the present day,
in Teneriffe is found inhabiting caverns. The shepherd
still excels in throwing the stone with precision, is swift
of foot, and with the assistance of a light staff leaps with
great facility the most dangerous precipices.
The name Teneriffe may be derived from Tinerfe the
Great, the last prince who united in his person the sole
sovereignty of the island, one hundred years before the
conquest ; previously to which desolating event, it would
appear from tradition that these islands were very

* De Fuertaventura trigo,
De Lancerot cebada,
De Tenerife los hombres,
Las mujeres de Canaria.

56 ARRIVAL AT ST. VINCENT ISLAND.
populous. Viera says, that in Grand Canary there
were no less than ninety thousand souls. The law did
not permit polygamy. Previous to marriage, the
fiancee was shut up for thirty days ; during which time,
she was fed on choice viands, in order that she might
attain the condition of embonpoint, which would be her
principal attraction in the eyes of the husband.
Friday, May 28^. — Sailed from Teneriffe. Our
voyage of six days to the Cape de Verd islands was
as devoid of interest as the preceding. Being in
the trade wind, we went before it all the way, and
arrived at Porto Grande in the island of St. Vincent on
the 3rd of June, where we found Her Majesty's steamer
' Soudan' and the ' Harriot' transport, which had been
here since the 22nd of May. They experienced a
severe gale in the Bay of Biscay. The ' Harriot' lost
some spars off deck, and part of her bulwarks. The
' Soudan,' was struck by a heavy sea on the quarter,
and some of the woodwork abaft the sponson carried
away ; but her qualities as a sea-boat were admirable,
and excited the surprise of all who saw her. During
the whole of the 22nd, when many fine vessels were
obliged to lay to on account of the heavy sea, she ran
on with safety. One of the men was unfortunately
drowned by accident on the 19th of May, soon after
leaving Teneriffe.
The appearance of St. Vincent caused much disap
pointment. Instead of a verdant isle, rich with tropical
productions, as some had been led by description to

PORTO GRANDE. 57
expect, it presented a succession of volcanic ridges,
arid ravines, and sandy plains.
Porto Grande is, however, a noble bay, situated on the
north-west side of the island, and therefore well protected
from the prevalent winds — the north-east trades. It is
very spacious, and from its salubrity and intermediate
situation within the tropics, it was considered by Captain
Trotter to be a very advantageous position for the neces
sary operations of thoroughly cleaning out and re-stowing
the holds, and transferring to the ' Harriot' the stores, &c,
for which we anticipated no further use before we reached
the coast of Africa. As this involved a considerable
exposure of the crews to a hot sun, it was a good pre
paration of their constitutions. The water is scarce and
bad, and the stunted brushwood quite unfit for fuel.
The chronometers were again verified; magnetical ob
servations made, and Commander W. Allen observed
the declination of the magnetic needle with a new
instrument — the transportable Magnetometer — which
had been completed expressly for this expedition, by
M. Weber, of Gottingen, the inventor.
The town consisted of about sixty dirty and uncom
fortable mud huts, which are seen not far from the
shore. The Governor inhabits a somewhat superior
building, but in many respects, is not much better off.
The people of the place — Portuguese, Creoles, and
Negroes — number about five hundred. They looked
healthy, though spare, which is not to be wondered at,
as they are dependent during great part of the year on

58 GOVERNOR AND FORT MAJOR.
the Island of St. Antonio, for supplies of food, which
they receive in exchange for the Lichen Orchilla, a beau
tiful purple die growing abundantly in the rocks, and
lime, prepared by burning shells. The Governor,
Capitan L. Bans, appeared to be an affable person, and
anxious, so far as his means would enable him, to be
civil. He is of English extraction. His very small
salary is so irregularly paid, that he must at times not
only have great difficulty in maintaining the dignity of
his office, but be put to much personal inconvenience.
A coloured officer, who came on board in the double
capacity of Master of the Port and Fort Major, amused
every one by suddenly merging his official visit and
capacity into that of agent to the laundress, by
saying : " Me next man gubberna, me Major of
de Fort, and my wife very happy to wash officer
clothes." The naturalists profited by our detention, to make
longer and more fruitful excursions than they had been
able to do at Madeira and Teneriffe. Dr. Vogel antici
pated but little promise in the burnt-up and arid ap
pearance of the island. He commenced his researches
at the only green spot he could see, in one of the two
principal valleys, descending from the central moun
tain region, and found there Tamarix Senegalensk,
a shrub from six to seven feet high, and sometimes
as a small tree. It is the only plant indeed, almost
the only object in these ravines, which casts a shade. ,
" After a search of four hours, climbing several hills

BOTANY. 59
and crossing as many valleys, I only met with two
plants of the same Tamarix, and a low shrubby-like
Labiata (Lavendula formosa) almost dried up, with a
few leaves, and some blossoms just opening. This
plant was, however, found subsequently to spread over
the whole island. The desert, in its most desolate parts
described by travellers, cannot exhibit a more melan
choly aspect than this part of St. Vincent. Yet the
soil ought to be fertile ; it is conglomerate of fragments
of basalt of various sizes in a loamy and chalky soil,
closely covered in many places with dried grass — the
natural hay — furnishing a scanty fodder to cattle and
goats when they have not the Tamarix to browse on.
In fact, the soil only wants water ; and we may guess
from such remnants of vegetation, how prolific it must be*
when supplied with some moisture during the brief
rainy season ; which according to the natives, lasts from
the beginning of August to the middle of October,
though even then the rain is not always abundant.
" To these plants of the plain before mentioned —
if such a term may be applied — where there is little
besides hill and dale — but few more were subsequently
added ; a small Euphorbia, perhaps prostrata or ser-
phyllifolia, believed to be new ; a few sea-shore plants,
especially Zygophyllum album and simplex, and Cassia
obovata, just then in blossom and fruit, and extending
from the shore, about six hundred feet up the side of
the mountains."
This scanty harvest below, induced the Doctor to

60 SCANTY VEGETATION.
search in the higher regions, for more botanical
treasures ; but even there he was but little rewarded
for much exertion. " The mountain chain, bordering
the western side of the principal valley, rising frequently
to one thousand five hundred feet, only afforded a
dozen species on the northern declivity. Two spots,,
however, were better furnished ; that is to say, the two
most elevated ridges situated towards the middle of the
island. The highest of these can boast of being the
best clothed with vegetation, and hence its name
' Monte Verde.' This rock of basalt, topping a gra
dually ascending table-land, rises according to barome
trical measurement to two thousand five hundred feet ;
and is the only mountain on the island generally
enveloped in clouds. Consequently its upper half is
found to have many well watered spots, while every
other part is burnt by drought.
" It is difficult to state precisely the difference
between the vegetation of the lower and the upper
regions. But it appeared that many plants flourishing
in the mountain, did also grow in the lower country,
though now dried up. As the Tamarix was of the
plain, so was an Euphorbia — perhaps the only one of
the island, commonly two or three feet high, but
sometimes a small tree, with some twenty or thirty
leaves among the blossoms at the ends of the
branches — characteristic of the mountains. It gave an
agreeable verdure to the clefts, it abounded in the
upper valleys., and reached to the very top of ' Monte

ENUMERATION OF PLANTS. 61
Verde.' It appears to be the same found by Brunner
in St. Jago, and mentioned as Euph. genestoides. ?
Doctor Vogel thought it to be an undescribed species.
A spreading, creeping, branching, completely leafless
Asclepiadea, occurred frequently at an elevation of
five hundred feet, on small flats, or hanging from
rocks, sometimes with white flowers at the ends of the
branches. A handsome Statice, a Companula, related
to dulcis, a Labiata with red flowers, and coriaceous
leaves. Lavendula, a Sida, which is probably new,
with a Linaria, Borago Africana, Echium, Tribulus
terrestris, Achyranthes aspera, Lotus, half a dozen
Composite, a shrubby Urtica, a flowerless Semper-
vivum, and a few Gramineas, and Cyperacea, formed
an agreeable spectacle in this region, such as one would
hardly have expected on an apparently desert island.
" The general aspect of vegetation was very Euro
pean, enhanced by Samolus Valerandi, Nasturtium
officinale, and Plantago minor. ? In these situations
were some cultivated plants ; but they looked, at least
then, very indifferent. Beans, especially lablah, maize,
cucumbers, a few bananas, cotton, ricinus, and batatas,
seemed to be the chief, but scarcely in sufficient quan
tities for the inhabitants. The bananas furnished to
us, were said to come from St. Antonio. There were
also a few Sycamores, and Jatropha curcas, and there
are said to be some Guavas and Papayas. A creeping
convolvulus was much cultivated, as the natives asserted,
for the purpose of thatching.

62 VACCINATION.
" Of Cryptogamia this island is proportionally still
poorer ; four ferns, all at above four hundred feet, a few
Conferva, perhaps three or four mosses on the top of
' Monte Verde,' all without fructification, and Alga on
the sea-coast very sparingly. On the whole, eighty or
ninety Phanerogamia were collected in flower. Of
insects, chiefly flies and grasshoppers were found, few
beetles." Roscher and several of the officers, visited a thin bed
of lime-stone on the south side of the bay, and which
abounds in varieties of conus, buccinium, and murex.
On the sea-shore this bed lies horizontally six feet above
the level of the sea ; but it is gradually upraised by tufa
— cut through by basalt, to the height of forty feet on
every side. This bed and some few volcanic cones at
different points of the island, form the chief geological
subjects of interest. The formation seems to be of the
older lavas, traversed in all directions by basaltic dykes.
The summits of the mountains are nearly all capped
with basalt.
Dr. MacWilliam, senior surgeon of the expedition,
and Mr. Marshall of H. M. Ship ' Soudan,' vaccinated a
number of the children, thereby preserving them from
a disease, which once introduced here, commits such
fearful ravages ; and yet nothing is done by the parent
Government to introduce or continue such a simple
process. One of our officers started — attended by- active guides
— on a two days' zoological ramble on the mountains, in

PERILOUS SITUATION. 63
search of wild goats (Cabras bravas), &c, little antici
pating the sort of ground he would have to pass in pur
suing them. At first it was found to be quite impossible
to follow in the footsteps of the adventurous mountaineers,
who, accustomed to spend days in these wild regions,
looking for stray goats, acquire great agility, sometimes
jumping with the utmost sang froid from one part to
another of frightful precipices ; or twisting with eel-like
dexterity, round overhanging rocks, where the loss of
self-possession for a moment would ensure destruction.
The first day was almost lost in vain endeavours to
approach the animals ; on the second, with great diffi
culty, a single but ineffectual shot was obtained. In
descending the mountain, the party at one time was
in a situation of great peril. To avoid passing near
the edge of a very steep and dangerous precipice, our
countryman had taken a rather circuitous route, where
the difficulty was apparently less ; unfortunately the sur
face over which he was walking, happened to be the
debris of the surrounding rocks, and just before he had
reached a point which appeared to be firm ground, the
mass on all sides began to move, at first slowly, but
quickly increasing in velocity downwards; the guides
observed the danger, which in a few moments would
have ended fatally, and with that ready tact, coolness
and skill, only acquired by being much inured to such
occurrences, one of them slipped down to a spot some
distance below, where a rock afforded a standing place.

64 curious spider's nest.
There he awaited the coming mass, and by suddenly
thrusting out his long hunting staff, enabled our friend
to withdraw himself from his unpleasant predicament.
In less than a minute he must have inevitably followed
the masses of broken rock and debris, which sliding
down, were borne over the precipice below ; it was
certainly not without feelings of thankfulness that he
returned to the plain.
At the hut of a negro couple, who superintended the
Governor's little patch of vegetables, the party were
hospitably entertained. In the evening all slept in the
same compartment; the black couple, children, guides
and our sportsman, but neither the visits of the fleas —
both strong and numerous — nor the discussion of the
man and his wife, as to whether " El Senor Branco"
was a Christian or a heretic, could prevent him from
enjoying a refreshing sleep, interrupted only by visions
of precipices, and hair-breadth escapes.
A very curious specimen of spider's nest is met with
in one of the valleys near the mountains. It is found
attached to a sort of Cassia, and is in the shape of
a perfect cone inverted; the upper and largest part,
which has a lid, being about two-thirds of an inch
in diameter; it is made of a white silky tissue, ex
ternally worked up with some viscous fluid to give it
firmness and resistance to water, while the inside is
filled with numerous eggs placed in a quantity of
brownish coloured, very fine and soft silk. When the

FISHING AT NIGHT. 65
young mygalia are hatched, they feed on each other until
one of them has worked a small aperture through the
top, by which the remainder escape.
Although during the day all hands had plenty of
employment, at night the amusement of fishing with
the seine brought out a goodly party of volunteers. The
figures of the men running past the fires on the shore,
and their noisy mirth, making quite a relief to the
monotony of the bay. A very curious fish, called by the
natives the "doctor fish" (Axinurus), abounds here, it
has on each side of the tail a little lancet-shaped spine,
which, when laid hold of, it raises, and unless care be
used it will inflict a disagreeable wound ; the colours are
a very pretty brown and yellow.
Fishes of many sorts are very plentiful, especially
mullet, (Muttus Barbatus, Thinnus, Chwtodon), and a
fine-flavoured description of rock cod, curiously marked
with scarlet, and minute blue spots.
llth. — A sad accident occurred this afternoon on
board the ' Wilberforce,' which threw a gloom over all
her crew, James Morley, a carpenter's mate, while
working over the bows of the vessel to stop a small
leak where the wood joins the iron at the cutwater, fell
into the sea, and after struggling for a few moments,
disappeared. The boats Were all away from the ship,
and the only person whose swimming qualifications
could have been useful, a powerful man of colour, was
deterred from jumping overboard after him by the fear
of sharks, which abound in fhe bay ; some having been
vol. i. F

66 A FATAL ACCIDENT.
seen near the vessel a short time previously, which
no doubt prevented others, who, though inferior per
formers in the water, would have ventured their lives
for a kind shipmate. After some time he was dragged
up and every means used to resuscitate him, but in vain.
Commander W. Allen, was on board the ' Albert ' at the
time, and his anxiety may be conceived, when he ob
served the bustle on board his vessel, without knowing
the cause, or being able to get on board ; the ' Albert's '
boats being also absent.
Poor Morley's death was deeply regretted by all on
board, as he was universally esteemed for his good
conduct, industry, and civility ; the only attention that
could mark the respect of his messmates, was paid in
bearing his remains to their last resting place. Every
person who could be spared of the officers and men from
all the ships were present on the melancholy occasion.
His younger brother, to whom he was much attached,
and who had entered on board the ' Wilberforce,' to be
with his only friend and protector, as his parents were
dead, was among the spectators of the tragical event,
and it may be imagined how intense must have been
his suffering, especially on finding that not only him
self, but all others were for some time deprived of the
power of rendering any assistance. What added to the
difficulty and delay in recovering him, was the fact that
knowing the exact spot where he fell overboard, and the
water in the bay being so clear that the stones at the
bottom could easily be seen, every one was naturally

CAPTAIN TROTTER'S REGULATIONS. 67
looking for his body in the neighbourhood of that spot ;
whereas, he was at length found at some distance, which
must be accounted for, either by a little underset of
current, or that a flaw of wind had altered the position
of the ' Wilberforce.'
The unfortunate youth, his brother, soon afterwards
fell into such a melancholy state of mind, bordering on
imbecility, that it became necessary, on our arrival at
Sierra Leone, to send him to England.
While lying at this place, Captain Trotter issued
general directions for the better regulation of the con
duct of the officers and men, in the trying circum
stances in which we might be expected to be placed,
the principal object of which was, to secure if possible,
the health of the crews, by preventing unnecessary
exposure, &c* * See Appendix.

F 2

CHAPTER IV.
Departure from St. Vincent — Watering at Tarafal Bay— St. Antonio-
Orange groves — Plants — Phosphorescence of the sea — Luminous aca-
lephse — Precursory signs of a tornado — Curious appearance of the sea
¦ — Sierra Leone — Polite attentions of the acting Governor — Engage the
interpreters and Krumen — Ludicrous names — Schooner purchased
— Free-town — Markets — Abundance of fruit — African fruit-sellers—
Violent tornado — Some Aku people killed while worshipping the
lightning — Awful spectacle — Botany — Liberated Africans — Remarks
on the condition of the colony— Missionary labours — Flight of locusts
— Leave Sierra Leone — Arrival at Cape Mesurado Liberia, prospects
of its advancement — Vegetation — Soil — Leewardly character of the
vessels — Sinu River — Intermarriage of Fishmen and Blue-Barra
people. Wednesday, June 16. — In the evening of this day
we had completed all our preparations except water, of
which none was to be procured at this island ; we were
therefore obliged to separate from the ' Albert ;' which
vessel having sufficient for the passage, sailed for Sierra
Leone, The ' Soudan' and transports were ordered to
make the best of their way to Cape Coast Castle.
In order to obtain a supply of that most essential
article, especially in a tropical climate — where water is

TARAFAL BAY.

69

appreciated in a way that can hardly be conceived in our
colder regions — it was necessary to go to Tarafal Bay,
in the island of St. Antonio, where we arrived too late
in the evening to distinguish the watering-place, so as
to be able to take the best berth for our operations.
llth. — In the morning we discovered the watering-
place, marked by a little plantation a short way up the
hill, on this otherwise barren part of the island. The
water is found in a scanty little brook, at an incon
venient distance from the shore ; we therefore had to
conduct it to a reservoir lower down ; where, however,
the soil was of such a thirsty nature, that a large portion
was lost before we could fill the casks by means of an
engine and hoses leading to the boats.
A schooner, of a very suspicious appearance, arrived
with her decks crowded with men enough for any pirate.
A boat was sent to examine her, and it appeared by the
papers, that the vessel — which was a captured slaver —
had been sold to a Spaniard, on condition that he should
take the accumulated prisoners from various slave vessels
to the Havannah. The captain had formerly commanded
a schooner in this abominable traffic; but said, that
having married the daughter of the Governor of Bona-
vista, who had so great a horror of the practice, he had
yielded to her prejudices and solicitations, though not
convinced by her arguments, and had consented to follow
in future a more legitimate mode of commerce.
St. Antonio is at once the most beautifully diversified
and the most productive of the Cape de Verds. It is well

70 ORANGE GROVES.
covered with trees, and useful vegetables are cultivated
without much labour. Oranges, limes, bananas, plantains
and yams are plentiful at most seasons. Of late years it
has produced a fair quantity of cochineal. Though not
long introduced, it is found to answer admirably, and as
the cactus is everywhere rapidly extending, the insect
will be a valuable addition to the slender exports of
the place.
In the evening, some of the officers took a stroll to
the neighbouring quintas ;. at one of which they had the
pleasure of passing a few hours in the cool refreshing
shade of an orange grove, where a Portuguese " Can-
tador" accompanied by his guitar, sang some very pretty
and enlivening airs, of which " Donna Maria da Gloria,"
was a frequent theme ; while the beams of the silvery
goddess of night faintly struggled through the surround
ing foliage, giving it so much the character of romance
as to enable them for a little space to forget the awful
reality in which they were soon about to be engaged.
On the south side of the bay, a lime-stone bed was found
on a cliff about twenty-five feet above the sea, containing
some very large specimens of Buccinium and Corns.
Close to the shore were many Asclepias gigantear the
shining coriaceous leaves of which attracted notice even
from on board ship. The plantation consisted chiefly of
some sugar-canes, cotton, papaya, citrons, guava, ricinus,
curcas and figs. Higher up the valley, bananas were
principally grown, as well as Cassia occidentalis, Cocos
and Capsicums. Amongst the plants on the sandy shore,,

BOTANY. I '
were frequently Argemone, Heliotropium ; a Sonchus,
several grasses, &c. The other indigenous plants corres
pond mostly with those of St. Vincent, but flourish
better here: the same Sida was common; the usual
Euphorbia, prostrata? Cassia oborata ; Tribulus
terrestris; the leafless Asclepiadea of St. Vincent ; the
Borago AJricana; Tamarix Senegalcnsis were also
found here. In that part of the plantation nearest the
shore there is an Indigophera, a new species of Phaoi.
Phaca micrantha, and a species of Plumbago, which
if scandens, mentioned as belonging to St. Jagx mus:
be indigenous on these islands.
The brook in the main valley was full of bamk-j..
which looked very pretty, especially when intertwined
with convolvulus, near a small cascade. Along the brook
were also an Epilobium, Plantago, Cyperas, Samolu*
valerandi. Orchilla is chiefly exported from this island.
Friday, June 18. — Having with difficulty compkttd
our water, we sailed at 1 p.m. We had at first verv
light airs ; but on clearing the land, the trade-wind blew
with great force, accompanied by a very heavy chopping
sea ; which together with the " top hamper" of a large
quantity of coals on deck, caused us to roll very heavilv,
whereby the head of the foremast was supposed to be
sprung ; and we were for some time in a most uncom
fortable condition, till finding it was not possible to
weather St. Jago, we were obliged to alter our course
and get into smoother water.
The brilliant phosphorescence of the sea this evening

72 PHOSPHORESCENCE OF THE SEA.
attracted our attention. The luminosity was so great,
that by its reflection, alternate light and shade were
strongly marked on the lower studding-sail, as it flapped
backwards and forward's in the light flaws of wind ; and
some of the water having been carefully examined under a
powerful compound microscope, two very minute species
of gelatinous animalculse were discovered, one of these
was a microscopically small Medusidee, of which some
were in clusters, others single,, and yet when magnified
four hundred times, did not look larger than a grain of
sand, yet each produced a scintillation of light. The
other more scarce species was an elongated Polypus,
resembling a series of small tubes placed in, and graduated
one above the other, and somewhat convoluted. In this
experiment, as in all others, it was necessary to agitate the
water to elicit the phosphorescence.
21 st. — During the last two days, we have passed a
great number of Campanulate Acalephce of almost
every colour; but the most prevalent had a disc of
reddish-brown or yellow, in diameter from one-fourth of
an inch to two inches and a half. In one which we
examined, the colour seemed to depend on the contents
of the stomach which was a yellowish fluid. Some others,
at night only emitted a phosphorescent light on being
moved about in the water ; and many were observed
near the ship, the size of the luminous portion appearing
to increase or diminish with the contractions or dila
tations of the gelatinous mass.
The N.E. trade-wind lasted only a few days after

PRECURSORY SIGNS OF THE TORNADO. 73
leaving the Cape de Verd Islands, we lost it about the
latitude 14° North, and longitude 23° West; after
which the wind was variable, principally from the S.E. ;
and on nearing Sierra Leone, we had occasional gusts
from S.W. with heavy rain.
The first tornado which saluted our approach to the
coast of Africa, was on the morning of June the 23rd, at
8.30 A.M., in latitude 13° North, andlongitude 18° West.
It was preceded by all the indications which, to a person
accustomed to them, would be received as sufficient
warning. There generally appears at first, a tumultuous
assemblage of clouds in all parts of the heavens ; these
gradually — as if by concert — hurry towards the east,
where they assume their stations ; forming by degrees
a long low arch, extending about six- points of the
compass. In proportion as the lower edge of this
becomes more defined, and increases in the intensity of
darkness, so may the near approach of the tornado be
expected ; and almost immediately after the complete
formation of the arch, the squall of wind bursts upon the
vessel, and woe betide her if sufficient precautions have not
been taken to avoid the effects of its fury after such ample
notice has been given. Vessels, the fate of which remain
unknown, may have been the victims of such neglect ; or
from having underrated the power of the winds in these
storms, which indeed have their variations in strength
and duration ; but they are always appalling, preceded as
they are, by a breathless atmosphere, and apparent stag
nation in all things, as if mute nature awaited the fearful

74 A TORNADO.
catastrophe. The universal stillness is only broken by
the solemn preparatory note of distant rumbling thunder,
accompanied by fitful flashes of lightning. Not long,
however, does " mute expectation wait ;" the imprisoned
wind rushes through the low, dark portals of that awful
arch, compressed as it were, and constrained to a hori
zontal direction ; its approach is palpable for miles in
distance, but for a very brief space in time ; levelling all
distinctions among the o'ertopping waves, by cutting off
their summits, and carrying them far away in the form
of " spoon-drift," it creates a mist which renders every
surrounding object indistinct. Meanwhile, the opening
heavens deluge us with torrents of rain, we are stunned
with thunder of such depth of tone, blinded by lightning
of such vividness and rapidity of succession, as can only
be conceived by those who have witnessed the war of
elements in a tropical climate. The spectator of such
a scene, let his heart be ever so unreflecting or callous,
will not fail in this wondrous moment, to bow in spirit
to the Almighty Ruler, who " rides the whirlwind and
directs the storm." The fury of the tornado lasts but
a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, and is followed
by some hours' rain ; it then clears up and the tempera
ture is delightful. It is usual to prepare for these
visitants by furling everything, except the foretopmast-
staysail, or some other head-sail, which flaps idly till it feels
the first overpowering force of the gust, when it instantly
bellies forward to bursting, and, aided by the helm, " pays
the vessel off." She flies before the wind while it lasts,

whales' food. 75
accompanied by the blinding "spoon-drift," the wild
screams of sea birds, and the roar of the electric strife
overhead : nature then assumes her placid aspect, we set
our sails, and continue our course " in gladness."
The invariable direction of the wind on the coast of
Africa, E.N.E., during these tornadoes, causes every vessel
to run away from them without danger, as they blow from
the shore; and their short duration does not carry them far
out of their course. As our ships were of iron, some appre
hended greater danger from the lightning; but this very fact,
perhaps, was the cause of safety — humanly speaking —
for they were complete conductors, fore and aft, and there
was possibly a constant current of the electric fluid, pass
ing through them during the continuance of the tornado.
We passed a quantity of the so-called " whales' food,"
a collection of small brown particles, like dust, some
floating on the surface of the water on examination
appeared to be minute filamentous Conferva. The
increased temperature of the sea shewed we were
within the mfluence of the Gulf-stream, though little of
the gulf weed (Fucus natans) was to be seen. When
passing the mouths of the rivers Nunez and Ponga,
even at the distance of sixty miles from land, a long
line of foam was seen, like breakers, marking the
boundary of the strife between the sea and the immense
volume of fresh water poured from these rivers, and by
which it is overcome.
Saturday, June 26.— On approaching the anchorage
at Sierra Leone, all were agreeably surprised with the

76 ARRIVAL AT SIERRA LEONE
rich and varied appearance of the settlement and sur
rounding country. In passing along, on the right hand,
various villages are observed, laid out in neat order;
with the large and graceful banana tree, in the small
patches of well cultivated ground attached to the huts,
and other indications of order and some industry ; while
the mountains, well-wooded and rising gradually as a back
ground, afford a pleasing picture, quite at variance with
the idea one is apt to form of Sierra Leone, from its
charnel-house character. But we were now in the
most favourable period for seeing nature bursting forth
in luxuriant vegetation, and resplendent with the full
tropical freshness of the commencing rainy season.
The ' Albert ' had been here two days ; and three
days after our arrival, the ' Soudan ' was obliged to put
in for coals, having been separated from the transport,
which was to have accompanied her from Porto Grande
to Cape Coast Castle. We found that Mr. Carr, the
Queen's Advocate, brother to the superintendent of our
Model Farm, was Acting-Governor, in consequence of the
death of Sir John Jeremy. On presenting our letter to
his Honour, from Lord John Russell, he showed every
disposition to afford us all the assistance in his power
for the furtherance of the objects of our visit. He said
in a conversation on the subject of intercourse with the
interior, it was his intention to renew the communication
with the large and important town of Timbo; which
had formerly been frequent, but had been broken off by
the Mandingoes, and other intermediate nations. We

KRUMEN.

77

agreed, that in the event of our reaching the upper parts
of the Niger, it would be desirable to send a mes
senger to Sierra Leone by that route ; and fortunately a
very intelligent native of Timbo, named Mahomed
Lamina entered at the last moment before our de
parture, as interpreter on board the 'Wilberforce,'
with a view of undertaking this journey, which he
had frequently made, being well acquainted with the
country. One of the objects of our visit to this place, was to
procure about one hundred Negroes, to be employed in
various departments of the expedition. Of these the
greater number were Krumen, to assist in the working
of the vessels, and especially to save the white men from
exposure to the sun and heavy rains. A considerable
number of these men are always here waiting for em
ployment ; having, as it were, devoted themselves to the
English ; and both men-of-war and merchant ships take
a gang on their arrival on the coast, for the purposes
before mentioned. There appeared, however, to be some
prejudice among them, and a dislike to river navigation,
so that the best men did not come forward very willingly
at first ; nevertheless our party, under " Jack Andrews,"
were a fine set of fellows, active and independent in
their looks, but civil and hard-working. The English
names by which they were entered, and known on the
ship's books,' are most amusing. Here you find Jack
Frying-pan taking precedence of King George and
Prince Albert ; and Jack Sprat, Bottle-of-Beer, or Tom

78 INTERPRETERS.
Tea-kettle, jostling with Prince of Wales, or Duke of
York : — Jack Andrews was taken as the headman ; one
of his best " boys " was Sam Lewis, who subsequently
proved a most diverting fellow, and a very accomplished
mimic and actor.
In addition to the Krumen for working the vessels,
we required some liberated Africans to act as interpreters
with the various nations we expect to visit. As much
depended on the care with which these persons were
selected, Mr. Schon had been previously written to, ana
most readily had undertaken the task. This gentleman,
a German by birth, had resided here a number of years
as Missionary, and was consequently well acquainted
with the African character, and many of the languages.
He was engaged to accompany the expedition, with a
view of ascertaining for the Church of England Mis
sionary Society, what facilities there might be for the
introduction of the Gospel among the nations of the
interior of Africa. Mr. Crowther, an intelligent and
well-educated native, was associated with him as cate-
chist. Mr. Schon embarked in the 'Wilberforce,' where
he acted as chaplain. Mr. Crowther joined the
' Soudan.' We found that Mr. Schon had a large number of
volunteers on his list. From these were selected thirteen
of the following nations, which we judged to be most
required, namely: — Ibu, Kakanda, Yarriba, Bornu,
Eggarah, Haussa, Nufi, Benhi, and Filatah ; the latter

free-town. 79
was the before-named Mahomed Lamina, the only one
who had visited Timbaktuh. He was far superior to
all the others in intelligence, having had a tolerable
Mussulman education. He told us, that he had kept a
journal in Arabic, of his former travels; but un
fortunately, it was in the possession of his brother, who
was away from Sierra Leone.
Besides these, fourteen other liberated Africans — some
of whom had their wives and children, were engaged by
Mr. Carr, the superintendent of the Model Farm, as
labourers, &c, for that establishment. These were sent
on board a small brigantine, which had been purchased
to serve as a tender, and the command given to
Lieutenant Harston, with a party of men from the
' Albert.' Having formerly been a condemned slaver,
it required some time to clean her out and fit her for the
reception of the people.
Free-town, the principal settlement in the colony of
Sierra Leone, is sufficiently elevated above the sea to
secure it from the evils of swamps and stagnant water
in its immediate neighbourhood ; but the long, low, flat
land of the opposite, Bullam-shore, frequently sends over
its noxious exhalations, to the detriment of health.
The town is clean, and well laid out ; the principal
streets being very broad and strait, especially that part
inhabited by Europeans and the more important of the
native traders, whose houses are generally detached,
and surrounded by numerous trees.

80 THE MARKETS.
The cottages of the liberated Africans, and numerous
Krumen, are closer, and with less pretensions to re
gularity, though even among these, it is evident that
their location has been selected with a view to secure
a free circulation of air.
A beautiful green-sward — which at this season of
vigorous vegetation defies the destructive work of many
feet, overspreads the streets, giving them an air of de
lightful freshness.
Good roads lead to the different townships and
villages, and command at various points, some beautiful
views. The Governor's house, barracks, &c, are placed on a
commanding and airy situation.
The market, which is held in a square, in a central
position, was well supplied with tropical fruits, of which
pine-apples were abundant. Fish, of various kinds, were
plentiful, but cannot maintain their position long in the
market-place, as they soon decompose in this climate,
and, unless speedily sold, must be ejected. Nearly all
the different articles exposed for sale were proffered by
Negro women; and the incessant clatter kept up on
every side, quite convinces the visitor that the active
use of that little member, the tongue, is not confined
to the gentle sex of more temperate climes. They did
not restrict their commercial transactions to the market;
for the ' Wilberforce ' was daily surrounded with busy
visitants, each bearing — Ceres-like — some production of

AFRICAN CONVERSATION. 81
the soil, as bananas, oranges, pines, custard-apples,
sugar-cane, earth-nuts, &c. They were all liberated
Africans, or their descendants, full of noisy mirth and
business. Mammy, and Daddy, are the common ex
pressions in use, to designate the sexes. So that a
dialogue is carried on somewhat in this manner.
" Well, mammy, what de news ? " " Oh ! tank'ee
daaddy, nuffing perticular, — only Gubberna Jeremy
dead — fever catch him, — he werry good man, — you
got wash clothes ? — me wash. Eberry body Sella-Leon,
too much glad, you go 'top Slave Trade. You like
buy dis basket orange ? me sell him too much cheap.
Buy-em, daaddy ? "
On the evening of the 28th, we experienced a very
violent tornado. Soon after sunset the well-known
portentous arch of dark clouds, and the gloomy circle.
round the horizon, gave indications of its approach.
The air was close and almost motionless. Shortly after
eight, a few heavy drops of rain fell, quickly followed
by vivid flashes of the electric fluid and the deafening
roar of the thunder.
The rain then became heavier; the wind swept
aloDg with a hoarse, rushing sound, its resistless power
tearing up and laying low the giants of the forest,
or overwhelming the unprepared or too-confiding
vessel and its hapless crew. Each element seemed
to be madly striving for mastery during the greater
part of two hours, when the fearful strife terminated
in favour of the water, the rain coming down in a
VOL. I. G

82 PEOPLE KILLED BY LIGHTNING.
deluge, well described by one of the sailors, who
remarked, " every drop was as big as a bucketful."
A great deal of mischief was done in the colony.
The commissariat building was struck and much
injured at three of the corners, where the solid
masses of wood, which formed the angular supports,
were split and shivered for several feet. The point
of electric attraction was considered to have been the
iron fastenings of the water-spouts.
Several persons were killed ; and, in one case, it
looked like a solemn coincidence with the arrival of an
expedition, some of whose objects and anticipated
results were the overthrow of superstition, and the
moral improvement of Afric's children. Two Aku
people, a man and woman, were engaged at the door
of their hut, not far from the barracks, singing,
beating drums, and offering up their prayers and
adorations to the forked lightning which illumined
the dark sky with its fitful glare. A sudden, but
loud shriek takes the place of the votive song. The
dwelling has been struck by the destroying fluid they
were worshipping, and the miserable pair are immolated
in the ruins.
Some of the officers went next day to visit the
place. The objects presented were at once horrible
and humiliating. The lightning's track was plainly
discernible across the enclosure which surrounded the
hut— now almost levelled to the earth. The remains
of its ill-fated tenants were there in ghastly and

AWFUL SPECTACLE. 83
distorted shape, some portions blackened and dessicated :
others in a state of putrefaction. The viscera were
protruding and covered with flies; the bones of the
head white, as if they had been bleached for years.
Yet, sad as the spectacle was, it seemed to be
even more so when remembered that their benighted
countrymen would regard this as an especial mark
of the favour of their gods, who had thus translated
them by the agency of a fluid which they worship
as a deity.
In his botanical researches, Dr. Vogel made many
enquiries after the somewhat mystical ' cream-fruit'
of Afzelius. The name was unknown, but several
persons guessed, from his description, that it must
be a fruit they call ' Bird-lime,' of which he procured a
dried specimen nearly ripe. It is not eaten readily
by any person. After all, he says " we have yet to
learn whether cream-fruit, bird-lime, and Don's sweet
Pishanin, are or are not identical."
" The Oil Palm fElais Guinensis) is the only one
occurring often near Freetown. It is moncecious, the male
flower grows above the female. It sometimes produces
fruit when only seven feet high, before the lowest
ribs have decayed. There was also a Leguminosa,
belonging apparently, from the fruit, to the genus
Afzelia ; but if so, it would form a separate division.
" Though a rich Flora, it was not — near the town,
nor in the mountains — so luxuriant as description leads
G 2

84 LIBERATED AFRICANS.
to expect. The soil is a close clay saturated with
iron, and therefore cannot be fertile. Such, indeed,
having soon been ascertained by the early settlers,
their attention was directed to other localities in the
vicinity ; whether, with greater success, we had not
opportunity to ascertain. But it must appear a matter
of surprise that this thickly-peopled colony should not
produce anything fit for exportation. The trade in
African oak, and cam-wood seems to be a wanton
neglect of the rich capabilities with which this region
is endowed by nature. This surely is a subject for
deep consideration. The Africans collected here, in
such multitudes, ought to furnish abundant and cheap
labour, and yet there is no cultivation on a grand
scale, such as to create a staple in the colony. Much
diligence is excited in converting and educating, to a
certain extent, the liberated Africans, but without any
beneficial influence on the mass, nor on the neighbour
ing tribes. This is not very satisfactory, and it proves
that the original and main object contemplated on the
formation of the colony, namely, to form a nucleus of
Civilization, and to rear a body of free labourers, whence
they might be diffused to the surrounding nations, has
not been advanced."
The liberated Africans on their arrival are appren
ticed to a planter till their twentieth year, after that a
piece of land is apportioned to them, which procures
a maintenance, scanty it is true, but sufficient for

REMARKS ON THE COLONY. 85
their absolute wants, and thus they fall back into a
state of animal existence, little, if anything better than
their original barbarism.
No Englishman can visit the settlement without a
feeling of honest pride, that his country should have
been the first to attempt to atone for the deep miseries
inflicted on Africa by the inhuman traffic in her chil
dren. But while he also reflects how much reparation
he owes her for his more extensive complicity, he will
not fail to confess that in this attempt, the result
falls infinitely short even of the instalment proposed to
be given.
Sierra Leone has in fact reached that point in its
career at which, unless some more energetic measures be
adopted to carry forward the original design, its useful
ness must cease, and its retrogression will be rapid.
Already it wears the aspect of premature decrepitude.
An abundant population neglects its resources ; and
in addition to the natural increment, it receives large
numbers every year, in re-captured slaves ; yet its wealth
and means of advancement do not keep pace with even
a natural increase in population.
It wants in fact capital and energy, to call forth
the resources of the country and give employment to
the multitude of settlers, who in default of it, have
become mere drones. The exertions of the Missionary
Societies, in their great vocation, are deserving of the
highest praise ; — but how few labourers in such an exten
sive vineyard ? After all, unless the social condition of

86 A SWARM OF LOCUSTS.
the negro be raised, he will never truly appreciate his
spiritual wants.
The exports of the colony are indeed small, com
pared with its resources, being chiefly coffee, a few
hides, pepper, ginger, and some indigo of inferior
quality. We had intended to introduce the cochineal
insect, some of which we had procured at Teneriffe,
but we could not see any of the proper cactus ; that
which is met with here and at Cape Coast, being a
small, thin-leaved, and less succulent one, than the
Opuntia Tuna. The most valuable export is the
timber, from the banks of the neighbouring rivers.
The day before leaving Sierra Leone, we witnessed
one of those destructive flights of locusts which some
times visit the settlement with such blighting influence.
It first appeared about three p.m. and only terminated
after sunset. The insects followed one another at the
distance of several feet, but in such myriads, that a long
and broad line only was discernible in the air, making a
course from north to south. This was said only to
have been a moderate swarm ; but it gave us some faint
idea of the eighth plague of the Egyptians. The inha
bitants of the several villages lighted fires, and mus
tered with drums, tomtoms, and such other articles as
would assist by their noise in preventing the devastating
legions from making a descent on their plantations ;
where they would soon have reduced every edible herb
to a leafless state. As the people here do not, like the
Arabs, turn these insects to account as an article for the

SETTLEMENT OF MONROVIA. 87
cuisine — their visits are indeed looked on as a perfect
scourge. Friday, July 2. — In the afternoon, the ' Wilber
force,' with ' Soudan' in tow, left Sierra Leone and
proceeded along the coast. The 'Albert' soon followed us.
We met H.M. brig ' Ferret' in a very sickly state,
many of the men were suffering from fever, to which
her medical officer had already fallen a sacrifice. A
surgeon was sent on board to alleviate their most pressing
wants. July 5. — Arrived off Cape Mesurado, having expe
rienced much of the squally and showery weather
belonging to the rainy season.
We anchored off the town of Monrovia, chief settle
ment of Liberia, the American colony of free and
liberated cok. '.red men. It contains about one thousand
inhabitants, under the Presidency of Mr. Buchanan, the
only white man resident here, who showed us every
attention. This is a most interesting experiment, but how far it
has succeeded, our short stay would hardly allow us to
judge : it is to be feared that it will be much preju
diced by the ill-judged and exaggerated statements of it
that have been put forth. There are, however, many
signs of advancement, which may produce good fruit,
if not marred by a premature conception of the impor
tance of their future destiny. The houses are large and
commodious. They have various places of public
worship, which is unfortunately split into several sects.

88 VEGETATION AND SOIL.
There are schools, provided with maps, and some
physical instruments, but it is to be feared a small
amount of useful instruction ; and there is a printing
press, from which emanate two newspapers, wherein
party spirit seems to run as high as in more extensive
communities. Lastly, their mission is of peace, yet
they have almost always been at war with the adjoining
nations. " The vegetation of this part of Africa is very similar
to that of Sierra Leone. Sarcocephelus esculentus
grows abundantly, and the fruit called Pomme granate
by Don ; a Poivrea, with beautiful red flowers, seems
new ; Cassia occidentalis, and a herbaceous Phyllan-
thus were found in abundance. Around the dwellings,
coffee trees have been planted, but are left to grow too
freely ; limes, figs, curcas, ananas, Soursop or Anona
muricata, Cytisus cajan, and arrow-root are cultivated.
Bananas and the oil palm occur of course, and the
guava, recently introduced, has become a weed."
The land is not very rich ; on the shore is the same
iron-clay as at Sierra Leone, and somewhat higher up
towards the Cape Mesurado, the same diallage accord
ing to Mr. Roscher, only it is of a finer grain, and
firmer. In several places the percolation of water has
produced singular forms, almost models of mountain
ranges. Although the neighbourhood of Monrovia is so
densely covered with thick underwood, is intersected by
rivers with their accompanying swamps, a clay soil, and
other causes likely to induce disease ; the colonists are

LEEWARDLY CHARACTER OF THE STEAMERS. 89
said to be not unhealthy at present, though the first
settlers suffered very severely from remittent and inter
mittent fevers, until those who survived became seasoned ;
they are even now not unfrequent.
The dangerous nature of the bar at the mouth of the
river, which must be crossed before landing, made it
quite impossible to procure wood for fuel. Our light
boats even were in considerable peril in landing the
officers. One object of our visit to Liberia was however
attained ; Mr. Carr secured the services of two volun
teers for the model farm. One of these, Ralph Moore,
had been accustomed to the management of cotton
plantations, on the banks of the Mississippi. He was
an intelligent, well-conducted negro.
We gladly availed ourselves of an opportunity of
sending letters to England by a brig which sailed from
this place.
July 6. — At 5 p.m. we left Monrovia. Contrary
winds soon made us sensible of the impossibility of
making much progress under sail, owing to the pecu
liar construction of the vessels, which were necessarily
more calculated for river, than sea navigation. We
made long tacks and short tacks, " long legs and short
legs," hoping to creep along shore, but in the morning
we found ourselves abreast of the point we had seen
near us on the preceding evening — so prone were the
vessels to the odious and disreputable habit of making
leeway. Nothing would get them to windward but

90 BLUE-BARRAS AND FISHMEN.
steam. In order to economise the small quantity of bad
fuel that we had obtained at Sierra Leone, an attempt was
made by the ' Albert,' to tow both the ' Wilberforce' and
the schooner ; but this was found to be worse than useless,
and it was deemed advisable for each to make the best
of our way to the rendez-vous at Cape Coast Castle.
The ' Albert' having more coals, reached a place called
Sinu, where she stopped to cut wood. The Americans
have here a small settlement, which was established by
the Mississippi Society in 1835, it is situated on a
tongue of land between the river and sea ; and is called
Grenville. The first Governor, Mr. Finlay, was mur
dered some years ago at Gran Bassa, where he touched
on his way to Monrovia. Unfortunately he was seen by
the natives to have received some money from the
captain of the vessel in which he had arrived ; and soon
after landing, was waylaid and murdered to obtain
possession of the little property he had about him.
The perpetrators of the crime could never be discovered,
but a war was commenced against their tribe, which
after having been prolonged for some time, terminated
in the aggressors being obliged to enter into treaties
with their American neighbours.
There are about five hundred natives at Sinu, who
are a mixture of Blue-barras and Fishmen, some of whom
came accidentally to that neighbourhood about sixty
years ago.
The habits of the latter seem to preponderate. They
have no tatooed marks on their persons, and are as

DRESS OF THE NATIVES. 91
regardless of dress as their forefathers. A few strings
of beads, and a scanty waist cloth, is their only dress,
either of useful or ornamental. The hair of the females
is shaven in various fashions, sometimes including half
of the head, or in others leaving merely a tuft at the
top. Their faces are generally besmeared with yellowish
clay, which gives them an unseemly appearance. The
children, when young, are carried on the backs of the
mothers in a semi-circular box, which is suspended
from the shoulders.

CHAPTER V.
Visit Edina— Gran Bassa—' Black Will,' King of Bassa— Dexterity of
the Fishmen in the management of their canoes — Wooding— Huts
of the natives— Grave of 'Jack-be-off' — Foulahs at war with the Fish
men — Senegal larkheel — Naturalist shoots a black boy by mistake,
or danger of " hopping the twig" — Trees and plants — Chamelions
— Popular belief that the saliva of this reptile produces blindness —
Pestilential swamps — Hammer-headed sharks — Cape Palmas—
Procure fuel — ' Jack Smoke,' Captain W. Allen's old Kru servant,
joins him — Appearance of the town and surrounding country-
Dress of the natives — Missionary establishment — Interesting
history of an American missionary — Sun-birds — Migratory black
ants — Their destructiveness — Geology — Superstitious dread of the
natives against planting Cocoa-nut trees — Meteorology.
July 9. — The 'Wilberforce,' in the meantime having
soon exhausted her fuel, anchored to-day off the town of
Edina, an affiliation of the colony of Liberia, which is
rapidly advancing along the coast. At this place, how
ever, there were already jealousies, which induced some
to wish to abandon the parent state, and put them
selves under the British flag.
The inhabitants were very willing to supply us with
wood, at the rate of two and a half dollars the chord ; but
this would have involved the necessity of crossing the

'BLACK WILL,' CHIEF OF BASSA. 93
bar of the Grand Bassa, or St. John's River, a risk not
to be incurred on any account, though the master of a
schooner offered to pilot the vessel, as he said there was
sufficient water. The health of the crew would also
have been too much endangered : — -yet wood we must
have. Therefore, after having examined some rocks
near a point, the vessel was taken into Bassa Cove,
which, considering the nature of the coast, was tolerably
convenient for wooding.
Although there was a very heavy swell all along the
coast, it could not prevent the adventurous and expert
Fishmen from rowing out to " makee trade ;" among the
foremost was ' Black Will,' the burly, rough-toned chief
of Bassa ; he came off full of promises as to fuel ; nor,
indeed, did he deceive us, since, in two days, a tolerable
quantity was forthcoming, but at a very dear rate in
cotton-cloths, on receiving which they ceased working,
so a party of our coloured men were sent on shore to
cut the wood ; ' Black Will' pretending that his people
had not axes, or, in other words, did not like the work.
His sable majesty is a stout specimen of his class, very
vociferous, and yet plain spoken ; his capacity for rum
is enormous, and he admitted when he came on board,
that he "drink plenty too much, each night make
head sing." On the following day, we landed with
much difficulty; the surf was very heavy, and nearly
swamped our whale-boats in approaching the beach.
How the natives contrive to manage their little narrow
round -bottomed canoes is a wonder — no English-

94 MANAGEMENT OF CANOES.
man could for a moment retain the frail bark in its
upright position; and yet they not only do so in
ordinary circumstances, but think nothing of paddling
off in the most tremendous surf. In most places where
water breaks heavily, it is observed that something like
regularity obtains in the interval between the more
violent successions of the rollers ; and the Fishman, by
long experience, knows the exact moment when there
will be a lull ; in this he pushes off, and is soon beyond
the reach of the breakers ; when once outside of them,
he cares nothing about the water rolling over the gunwale
of the tiny canoe : with his foot he expertly and quickly
throws it out again, and it is only when he is on the
point of sinking, that he uses a rude sort of scoop to
bale with. Most of the wood was brought off in these
canoes, and yet no accident occurred. The fact is,
these people almost live on the water from their earliest
years, and therefore become accomplished swimmers;
all that is necessary in the management of the canoe is
a ready and proper balance of the body to maintain it
upright. To attain this must require about the same
address that is exerted by a dancer on a tight or slack
rope, and only acquired by constant practice and firmness.
A few yards from the shore, we found a lagoon, left by
the overflowing of the sea at certain seasons, and as it
abounded with fish, the seine was employed with much
success. The Fishmen have settlements on both sides of the
little River St. John's : — that on the left is clearer of wood

GRAVE OF ' JACK-BE-OFF.' 95
and more cultivated. ' King Will's ' town is a scattered
village on the right bank, beautifully placed as far as
the eye is concerned, amid fine specimens of Palm,
Cocoa and Bamboo. The houses are well built, of a
somewhat conical shape, but nicely and securely wattled
with Bamboo and Palm-leaves; they have generally a
raised floor of Bamboo, and are tolerably clean. The
inmates were not backward in offering an invitation to
enter, but the closeness of the air externally, and the
smoke which burst forth at the little doorway, literally
choked the rising wish to become more acquainted with
the internal arrangements. Near the beach, under a
little Palm-tree, lies the burying-place of 'Jack-be-off,' a
man who had served on board a vessel of war ; his bottle —
said to contain rum? — some calabashes, a frying-pan, and
brass-pot were scattered over his grave, while the mys
terious Fetiche, or god, a little mass of clay enveloped in a
bit of rag, and suspended by a stick, kept supposed watch
over all that was mortal of " poor Jack." What reader
can hear of such absurd superstition, and not wish
fervently that some of the numerous Krumen and Fish
men, who frequent Sierra Leone, should be made the
objects of express religious solicitude ; and that before
too much is expected from the interior, we might behold
some opening fruit on the immediate coast and among
the people with whom our African colonists are holding
constant intercourse.
The facilities, however, which the vicinity of this in
teresting nation affords, and their devoted attachment to

96 BLACK BOY SHOT BY MISTAKE.
the English, has not yet excited the attention of mission
aries. Proselytes are seldom made among the Krumen.
1 Oth. — To-day, on going into the country for some
little distance, we encountered a small party of Fulahs,
who are at present engaged in war with the Fishmen, so
that the latter cannot move far into the " bush." The
Fulahs we met were certainly very rough-looking fellows,
and probably the fear of the white man's double-mouthed
guns alone prevented their making free with our clothes.
They were very rude in appearance, armed with mus
kets and spears, and had patches of monkey-skins
about their persons, among which we noticed por
tions of the beautiful Diana Monkey (Cercopithecus
Diana). In the woods, we shot several fine speci
mens of Centropus Senegalensis, the general plumage
on the back is a rich brown, while the stiff-
hirsute feathers of the neck are a dark olivaceous
green, approaching to black; the long tail is fine
shining black, the whole bird has a graceful appearance.
On returning to the boat, we ascertained that a very
unlucky accident had occurred, and which might
have been attended with bad consequences, — it turned
out, however, slight, and only served as a passing amuse
ment. It appeared that our worthy naturalist had been
engaged in the bush, looking for specimens of " rare
natives," and seeing a movement among some under
wood, concluded it must be a rich prize ; he waited
in breathless suspense for a second or two, hoping that
perhaps he might get a glimpse of the coveted object,

AWKWARD ACCIDENT. 97
but the rustling in the bush continuing, his anxiety got
the better of his patience, and bang went his " Manton."
A sort of wild shriek followed, and on rushing to
pick up what he trusted was a new species of monkey,
he found a black boy, wounded in some places by the
shot, but more frightened than hurt. The little fellow
scrambled off in quick style, net wishing to try any
longer the process of "hopping the twig" near a
zealous Zoologist. 'Black Will' made some palaver
about it, but a douceur — a piece of handkerchiefs and
an axe — served to sooth the irritation of the young
sufferer's wounds and the ill-feeling of his friends.
Some of our countrymen came on board from
a small schooner, trading for palm oil and ivory on
the coast. Two of them were sickly, and suffering
much from ague and other sequences of the coast
fever. They were very grateful for proper medicines
and kind treatment on their visit; and we afterwards
learned that the remedies had been effectual.
During our stay at Grand Bassa, we had rain every
day, sometimes lasting with great violence for many
hours, which made our operations of wooding very
difficult, and attended with danger to health, though
the hard work was principally done by the Krumen.
This unfavourable state of the weather also limited the
researches of our Botanist, and confined his observations
to the immediate vicinity of the shore, where, however,
he found more plants than he was able to preserve in
such a damp atmosphere. A collection of one hundred
VOL. I. H

98 BOTANICAL CHARACTERS.
species was made with difficulty ; many plants, especially
in parasitical Orchideee, were not yet in flower.
The shore is flat and sandy, and the drift is carried
far inland. There are here no forests, only shrubs,
intermingled with isolated high trees, the nature of which
could not be determined, as they were without blossom
or fruit. The African Bombax appeared to be among
them, and the same Spondias as at Sierra Leone. It
was doubtful whether a considerable tree of this was
identical with Myrobalanus.
But the pride of these shores is the Elais. Clumps
of a dozen or more of these graceful trees, exhibiting
under different circumstances a modified appearance,
give a great variety of aspect to the country. It is a
Palm of moderate height, and forms, with various Figs,
the chief mass of the woods. The underwood consists
of shrubby Rubiacea, with shining leaves, intermingled
with Gloriosa superba, Cissi, Leguminosa and Banis-
teria as creepers, leaving hardly room for Melastom<B,
and other low plants that peep through with their lovely
blossoms. Nothing can be more beautiful than a clump
of a few Oil Palms, with the remaining stumps of the
lower leaves covered with the fresh verdure of parasitical
Ferns and Orchidacea.
Of single plants may be mentioned Sarcocephalus,
occurring frequently ; the same Phyllanthus as in
Liberia, Schmidelia Africana, a genus of Apocy-
nea, which seems new, Tabernee montana, remark
able on account of its double fruit, as large as a
child's head, the seeds nestling in the almost woody

BOTANICAL CHARACTERS. 99
pulp ; wild sugar-cane, not in blossom ; Conocarpus
erectus was a small shrub ; Haronga, probably new ;
Cassytha, Sceevola, different from Sc. Lobelia, Canna,
Indigo, Cassia occidentalis, cultivated, Borreria Ko-
hauntiana, &c. Stylosanthus with erect and very branch
ing stems, formed a close jungle, about one foot and a
half high, on the sandy shore.
A few open spaces amongst the shrubby woods were
covered, as if cultivated, with Cyperacea, amongst
which, frequently, a species of Eriocaulon.
A few other watered spots shewed grasses with a
beautiful Orchidea. Near the village, Euphorbia drus-
sifera (Schum.) was found. An excursion to the river
enabled the Doctor to examine the Mangrove woods :
Rhyzophora, different from Rhyz-Mangli, had not yet
any ripe fruit. It formed the bulk of the wood.
Amongst it was Avicennia, according to the leaves
different from that at Sierra Leone, (Nitida) was
frequent, and as a shrub. Conocarpus racemosus, it is
doubtful whether this is identical with the Ameri
can species, which has not been enumerated among
African plants, but occurs at Sierra Leone in similar
situations. Intermixed with these, Drepanocarpus
lunatus, as a small tree with its thorns, rendered walking
very difficult. Pandanus candelabrum, without leaves,
was met here for the first time in the swamps. An
Anona, a tree ten or twelve feet high, had fruit, and
appeared to be very similar to Chrysocarpa Lepr. if not
the same, it was not rare in these swamps. Legumi-
H 2

100 HABITS OF THE CHAMELEON.
nous trees were hardly met with here, and none of a
large size ; no Mimosece or Casalpineee. Of cultivated
plants, the Sweet Cassada is much valued; also rice,
various sorts of Capsicum, Papayas, and Plantains;
Holcus, or Indian corn, here and there. Ananas grew
in great quantities among the shrubs.
One of the most interesting inhabitants of the bushes
all over this coast, is the Chameleon Senegalensis.
The usual colour is an obscure green ; the body is lizard-
shaped, with the exception of the tail, which is generally
longer, rounder, and thicker, often curled up, and,
moreover, somewhat prehensile, or capable, when twisted
round any object, of supporting the body. It is very
inactive in its habits, and moves but slowly or seldom
from a convenient resting-place. The tongue is long,
and easily and rapidly extended in any direction, so that
it answers all the purposes of procuring food. The
eye of the Chameleon, though small soon detects the
insects hovering about its neighbourhood, and with the
utmost celerity it secures them by means of that member.
In one which we kept on board some time, attached to
a slender branch, it was amusing now and then to see
an unwary fly rest for a moment on the sensitive crea
ture ; if within reach of the tongue, the little intruder
was soon seized.
The colour of the skin changes, according to excite
ment of different degrees, mostly light, heat, or irritation
from other causes.
We are inclined to believe that the variation in hue

REPUTED EFFECTS OF ITS SALIVA. 101
depends on the more or less elevation of the little scaly
bodies; with which the skin is studded. A process
similar to blushing takes place — the minute capillaries
of the skin are distended — the animal, as if by a long
inspiration, puffs the body out ; thereby separating the
little scales, and modifying the hght as it falls on the
altered surface. The change is very gradual.
The natives along the coast say, that when the animal
is highly irritated, it spits out a fluid so acrid, that if it
enter the eye, it will produce much inflammation, and con
sequent loss of sight ; but as we could never meet with
a person who had suffered from it, we suppose it to be a
popular error. We have often endeavoured to provoke
the sensitive reptile to this act of rudeness ; but it never
proceeded further than to open the mouth very wide, as
if gasping. While we were lying here, a schooner, having all the
appearance of a slaver, stood close in shore, evidently for
the purpose of reconnoitring us. We learned, in fact,
from the Krumen, that a cargo of human beings was
collected at a short distance to the southward, and no
doubt the slave- owner was waiting for our departure to
embark them, as we found that he watched us until we
were well out of his way.
Wednesday, July 14th. — Having procured all the fuel
we could stow, we weighed at four p.m., and proceeded
along the coast, which was found to be very low, and
covered with thick forest and underwood down to the
beach : this was sandy, with a heavy and incessant

102 HAMMER-HEADED sharks.
surf breaking on it. One would imagine that malaria
and fevers must hold undisputed possession of these
impenetrable forests and noisome swamps ; but the
wreathing smoke which appeared in many places, proved
that He who " tempers the wind to the shorn lamb," has
given in His mercy, such a constitution to the creatures
whom He has placed here, as to enable them to resist a
climate which would speedily show to those not so
adapted, that they could not tempt its dangerous
atmosphere with impunity.
We had an opportunity of seeing two of those
hideous monsters of the deep, the hammer-headed
shark, Zygcena malleus, which as we slowly moved
along, followed us some time, to the dismay of
the superstitious among the sailors. It is certainly
one of the most singular and horrible looking of
fishes. The head is depressed, more or less truncated
in front ; on each side extending horizontally to some
length, which gives it the hammer shape. The eyes are
placed at the extremity of this curious formation ; and
as the animal in its zigzag movements, slightly raises
one side and depresses the other, the eye has a most
revolting aspect ; they are furnished with lids, which pro-
ceed from the internal part of the orbits ; the pupil is
black, surrounded by a rich yellow iris. In a small
one we procured, the conjunctiva was of a reddish tinge.
The semi-circular mouth is furnished with four or five
rows of serrated teeth, according to age, directed towards
the corners of the mouth. The elongated nostrils are

CAPE PALMAS. 103
immediately below the central notch, which, as it were,
divides the laterally elongate head. The bronchial
openings, five in number, are all before the base of the
pectoral fin. The inferior division of the tail is small ;
the superior portion long, pointed and very powerful,
and it is chiefly by this it is enabled to turn with any
facility ; but the conformation of the head prevents it
from moving with the dexterity of most other sharks ;
and, therefore, though voracious, it is less dangerous.
The body is tapering and of a greyish brown. Its
whole appearance is most repulsive.
Like many of the Sgualus, or shark family, it brings
forth its young alive, ten or twelve at a time ; these
usually keep together, unless destroyed, so that where one
small one is seen, there are generally others not far off.
The pretty little pilot fish, which is so often the com
panion of the other monsters of this genus, we have
never seen with the hammer-head.
Friday, July \6th. — We anchored at Cape Palmas,
again for the purpose of replenishing our rapidly con
sumed stock of fuel. The incessant surf made landing
at this place, even more difficult than the last. It was
impossible for the boats to pass the bar of the little
river ; we were, therefore, obliged to make use of another
but difficult place outside the river, where it required
the greatest care to prevent their being knocked to
pieces. In order to be as near as possible, to facilitate
the conveyance of their loads to and fro, the vessel was
also here taken inside some rocks, which afforded

104

DIFFICULTY OF WOODING.

tolerable shelter from everything except the swell, that
sweeps around the rocks, and is, however, almost the
only danger, as it rarely blows hard on this coast.
The paddle-box boats were found to be of incalculable
service ; no others could have borne such rude work. We
used the utmost dispatch in getting the wood off, em
ploying such natives as would work for hire, as well as
our own black-men ; and it was fortunate we had com
pleted at the time we did, for within a quarter of an
hour after the last boat-load had left the shore, the swell
became so violent, lashing the rock which we had selected
as a landing-place with such fury, that approach would
have been impossible.

The Americans have also a settlement here, with some
respectable-looking houses ; but Cape Palmas is chiefly

' JACK SMOKE.' 105
important as being the head-quarters of the Fishmen.
The native town at some little distance apart from the
American location, is a collection of mud huts with
raised floors, and roofs generally conical. Their town is
kept very clean, though straggling. Commander Allen
went thither in search of his old and faithful servant
' Jack Smoke,' who had served him with such unwearied
attention during his frequent and long illnesses on the
former expedition ; when there was no other person to
assist him, poor ' Jack Smoke' performed the part of
servant, nurse and friend, for which he was held in most
grateful recollection.
' Jack Smoke' was now enjoying the otium cum digni-
tate on the profits of that voyage, which could not
have been small. He was not at home to receive his
visitor, but at the door of his neat hut, Commander
Allen saw an interesting young black woman, playing
with a very pretty chubby little naked negro-boy These
proved to be Mrs. Smoke and Master Jacky. Papa was
soon sent for, and expressed much gratification, in his
quiet way, at the sight of his old master ; who now had
an opportunity of showing the estimation in which
he held him by offering the berth of second head
Kruman, which, after a slight consultation with Madame
his better half, he joyfully accepted, and entered at once
on his office, having no preparation, and small adieux
to make ; he came indeed in a very light marching
order, with nothing but his waist-cloth about him.
Most of the women were busily engaged preparing rice

106 MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT.
and indian corn, by pounding it in large wooden
mortars, several of them had a little infant suspended to
the back, which slept on, regardless of the incessant and
jerking motion of the mother.
A good many of the men speak imperfect English,
either acquired from the Americans, or on board our
ships, where most of them have spent more or less time.
The natives here, as at all other points on the coast,
do not expend much time or clothing on their persons,
A plain cotton cloth, folded from above the breast and
round the middle, is considered sufficient for the women,
while the men are content to walk in the more simple
and convenient waist-cloth.
17 th. — At an early hour we went on shore and
wandered into the country surrounding Cape Palmas ;
passing through an irregular street of detached
houses, inhabited mostly by American blacks who have
been settled here. The country is well cleared of large
trees, and occasionally some patches of rice were met
with, which the natives were cutting down and bearing
home on their heads, accompanied with the usual
garrulous din of the Negro. About two miles from
the town, we were agreeably startled by hearing nume
rous voices engaged in a hymn well-known in boyish
days, and which falling on the ear in a sequestered
African palm grove, raised pleasing, yet sad emotions : on
approaching we were surprised to find the vocal harmony
proceeded from a large well-built house, used as a school,
and from which on our coming nearer, the good super-

HISTORY OF A MISSIONARY. 107
intendent — leaving his pupils — made his appearance,
and in the kindest manner proffered his services to show
us anything worthy of notice in his neighbourhood.
In the course of a long walk through the surround
ing woods, he explained many interesting features in the
natural history of the country, as well as the more
important ones of the social and moral condition of the
natives. His own story was one, indeed, illustrative of that
perfect benevolence and self denial, which may even yet
be found occasionally in fallen man. He was a mis
sionary from the United States, descended from a highly
respectable family, of English extraction, that had — only
a generation previously — settled in one of the southern
States. He had always been opposed to slavery in any
shape, and being truly concerned for the welfare of the
African in his native wilds, becoming on his father's
demise proprietor of the estate and negroes, he resolved
on liberating the latter ; and in order that they might
" sit down " in the country from whence they were de
scended, a useful example to those whom they might be
located near, he sold the property, paid the expenses of
the passage and maintenance of his father's slaves,
and had settled near Cape Palmas. His generous
disposition would not allow him to breathe a syllable on
the subject of the ingratitude of those for whom he had
sacrificed all ; but enough was elicited to show that many
of his brightest hopes had been disappointed. He had
a school, containing forty or fifty youths, children of

108 MISSIONARY ZEAL.
Fishmen and Uberated American blacks; but he said
he found it difficult to induce them to continue long
under tuition, and that when once they had acquired a
little knowledge of writing and reading they were re
moved. In the case of the natives, probably the Gregree
men, or priests, are the cause of this, inasmuch as know
ledge, even in a limited degree, must soon overthrow the
system of imposition by which they subsist and exert
such influence over the people.
We shot some most beautiful species of Cinnyris, or
sun-bird — the African humming-bird— and returned to
our kind friend's residence, where we met his wife, a
very intelligent and interesting person, and partook of
their hospitality.
On hinting to him our regrets that he and his good
partner should remain there in such miserably bad health
as they were evidently suffering from, he replied in a
resigned and quiet tone, " I have staked all my little
worldly property for these people, and to advance the
cause of Christ in this country ; and although I have so
indifferent a prospect to cheer me at present, if it please
God I will continue, and if need be, end my days in this
land of my adoption."
The attenuated forms and sickly look of this devoted
couple, and their quiet, unostentatious demeanour, filled us
all with respect and admiration. If there were but a few
more of such sincere practical philanthropists, how much
might be done for heathen Africa?
On our way back to the boat, we came across a mi-

BLACK ANTS. 109
gratory band of black ants — Termites. Their path was
about three inches broad, and very much resembled a
long black snake, as the tumultuous mass struggled along,
each insect trying to advance before its fellows.
How numerous must be a colony like this, which has
its multitude in every square inch, and yet the line of
emigration sometimes extends for miles. Whatever lies
in their path that can serve as food, is quickly devoured
by such hosts of hungry travellers. Snakes often be
come their prey, when, after repletion, they are met in a
state of torpor ; and it is said that cases have occurred
where infirm and sickly persons, unable to move out
of their way, have been literally eaten up alive by them.
It seems hardly credible, and yet we can easily believe
on looking at the black mass as it pours onwards, that
nothing edible would long resist them.
The day was fine, and we returned to the vessel much
pleased with what we had seen, and above all with the
good and generous missionary whose acquaintance we
were so fortunate as to have made.
The rocks, hornblende-slate or mica-slate, protrude
through the soil, which is very bad on this part of the
coast; a stiff iron-clay, having its origin, according
to Roscher, in the debris of granite veins piercing through
the rock ; though in all probability the rock itself has
a great deal to do with the formation.
Farther up the river the soil is said to be good.
The river to the north of the Cape, by the state
ment of the Governor, is navigable for canoes to the

110 ABSURD SUPERSTITION.
extent of seven miles, and enters the sea by several
channels. At a distance, the Cape itself is a pleasing object, the
neck of land is well covered, and beyond, the beautiful
forms of the oil and wine palms form a graceful and
prominent feature.
Our Botanist's excursions were limited to the isthmus
and adjacent parts. On the isthmus grew Phoenix
spinosce, a low shrub : beyond the river, it was said to
have flowers and fruit.
A few Cocoas had been planted some years back, and
had not as yet attained much height. There is here a
strong and very prejudicial superstition relative to the
planting of that most invaluable tree, the Cocoa palm ;
they believe that whoever plants one will surely die
before it produces fruit, that is to say in about seven
years. The chief of the Fishmen yielded at last to the
exhortations of the American Governor, though not con
vinced by his arguments of the folly of the superstition, and
the real evil which such a belief entails. He was fully
sensible of the great uses of the tree, and desirous of
possessing some ; therefore, in order to avoid the fatal
consequences supposed to attach to those who are
directly instrumental in sowing them, he devised an
ingenious method of providing a subterfuge. Having
placed some nuts at the brink of holes previously drilled,
he caused cattle to be driven about over the ground thus
prepared, until all the nuts were thrown into the spaces
and covered over by the hoofs of the beasts.

BOTANY OF CAPE PALMAS. 1 1 1
There were also some small trees of the Sour-sop or
Anona muricata. The plants chiefly cultivated seemed
to be Cassada, Sweet Potatoes, Convolvolus batatas;
Bananas, Musa sapientum ; Plantains, Musa para-
dasaica ; Indian Corn, Sorghum rubens ; Rice, and
Cassia occidentalis.
The same Spondias as we had before seen were also
here. Coffee had been introduced from Monrovia.
Here and there, the indigenous species of cotton had been
planted. The Ground-nut Arachis hypogaa Africana,
was found planted at one spot. Leguminosee were very
conspicuous. Of the native Flora, which however was but imper
fectly examined, we found here Rubiacce, Convolvulaceee,
Anona near Chrysocarpa, as in Grand Bassa. Pandanus
candelabrum grew here on dry ground ; several sorts of
Figs, amongst which the smail-fruited one of Grand
Bassa. The common Physic-nut, or Jatropha curcas, was
frequently employed for fences. Among the underwood
was found a small shrubby tree related to Belvisia
Napoleona, and probably a separate genus nearly
approaching it. It had blossoms and fruit. From the
latter, Dr. Vogel was convinced that the same plant, or
a species very little differing from it, was seen at Grand
Bassa. The rainy season commences at Cape Palmas about
May, and continues almost without intermission until
October; but even during the dry season there are
frequent heavy showers of some hours' duration, chiefly
in the forenoon.

1 1 2 METEOROLOGY OF CAPE PALMAS.
The sea-breeze sets in about nine or ten a.m., and
declines towards sunset, when the close and insalubrious
land-wind succeeds.
According to Dr. McGill the amount of rain deduced
from two years' observations, 1840, 1841, is 80.76
inches per annum, of which 28 to 30 inches fell either
in May or June, which are the months of heaviest rain ;
the winds are then variable, or southerly and easterly.
The tornadoes, at the opening and conclusion of the
rains, occur generally every five or six days.

CHAPTER VI.
The Grain Coast — Krumen and Fishmen, or Grebus— Peculiar charac
teristics — Mode of government — Religious observances — Diseases
— Music — Curious tradition — Good and evil spirits — Marocho, or
Kru Christmas — Marriages — Observances on the death of indivi
duals — Ceremony of drinking " Sassa water " — Aggri beads found
among the Krus — Supposed communication with the ancient
Egyptians — Kru fondness for finery — No slaves exported from the
Kru country — Animosities of Krus and GreTms — Emigration
recommended — Sail from Cape Palmas — Dangerous situation of the
' Wilberforce ' — Bottomless pit — Bobsum Accra — Whale-boat
swamped in landing — Sudden death of a liberated African — Several
cases of fever — Fatal case — Arrival at Cape Coast — Governor
M'Lean's desire to forward the views of the expedition — Appear
ance of Cape Coast — Governor M'Lean's policy — Fanti aversion
to labour — Difficulty of improving the condition of the natives —
The Governor visits the ' Wilberforce ' — Amusing scene — Surf —
Town of Cape Coast — Huts — Weaver-birds and their pensile nests
— Mr. Freeman's missionary labours among the Fantis — Searching
for gold dust.
18th. Proceeding slowly towards Cape Coast. —
As we have already passed the Grain Coast, an
interesting locality, connected with the little-known
but most deserving Krumen, it is as well to
VOL. I. I

114 GREBUS AND KRUMEN.
bring them here under consideration. Premising that
the general and proper native names are Grebus, or
Fishmen, and Kru-men, the appellation of the latter
not being derived from their forming part of the
crew of a ship, as erroneously stated by some authors,
but in reality from the part of the coast whence they
were first employed, viz., Nanna Kru and Settra Kru.
Still there can be no doubt, on comparing the phy
sical characters and language of both, that they are cer
tainly one and the same race of people, however much
the present animosities existing between them may
induce each to declare to the contrary. Under the two
heads of Grebus or Fishmen, and Krumen, may be
classed the inhabitants of the small section of West
Africa, comprised between 6° and 10° west longitude, and
4° 25' and 5° 45' north latitude. Of the two tribes, the
Fishmen, or Grebus, are somewhat the more numerous :
they inhabit the following localities of the space just
referred to — Cape Palmas, Grand Sesters, Fishtown,
Garraway, Log Town, Carvallhi, Po River, Tahou;
while the proper Krumen possess Settra Kru, Krubar,
Nanna Kru, King William's Town, and Piccaniny Sesters.
The Fishmen, as their name implies, are mostly accus
tomed to canoe life ; and from their sitting so much in
their narrow confined barks, the skin over the outer
ankle becomes thickened in many cases, and this they
refer to as a distinct and inherited mark, which of course
is absurd, as it only obtains among a few of them who
have been much occupied on the water. That they are

MODE OF GOVERNMENT. 1 i 5
not inappropriately named, is evident from the dexterity
they have acquired in their favourite element, wherein
they seem to be more at home than on " terra firma."
The Krumen attend more to agriculture, and trust
principally to the growth of rice and Indian corn.
The history, and domestic and religious customs, are
the same in both. Each tribe has a King or Bullion,
as well as a grand " palaver" house. That for the Kru
country is held at Krubar ; the Bullion residing at Nanna
Kru, while Grand Sesters is the head-quarters of the
Grebus, or Fishmen's King, and the grand " palaver"
house. Each separate town has a chief and little " palaver"
house, where minor disputes are settled ; but every two
or three years, a grand " palaver " is held, to which
deputies are sent from the little " palaver " houses, and
the more important matters of each town arranged by
majority. The food of these tribes is principally rice, palm oil,
and fish. The Grebus live more on the latter, but they
add plantains, the flesh of deer, beef, &c, occasionally,
as it can be procured. Umbilical and scrotal hernia and
enlargement of some of the conglomerate glands, dicchari,
or a species of slow gangrene, by which they lose their
toes or fingers, and ulcers, are the most important dis
eases ; but during August — the middle of their rainy
season and the most sickly month — dysentery, and
fevers, remittent and intermittent, occur ; the latter is the
most fatal, though slowest. These they attribute to the
i 2

1 1 6 MUSIC. — TRADITIONS.
bad thick water which at that time flows in all their
rivers. The music of these people is very simple ; the sub
joined is a specimen.
«. . . ¦&

sra^s

They accompany all their songs with the tom-tom, or,
if afloat, by striking the paddle against the gunwale of
the canoe or boat.
The traditional history of both tribes, Gre'bu and
Kru, is identical; and. as well as their physical cbaracter
and language, confirms the statement of their common
origin. They say their old men have a legend that a long
time past their forefathers dwelt near high mountains
which are many days' journey from the sea ; that they
were driven gradually from thence down to the coast by
the Mandingo and Fulah Mahommedans, or as they
themselves so well describe it, " Them fellows live
behind we in bush. Make Allah, Allah ! Allah Akbar
every morning," alluding to the Mandingos and Fulahs,
" they drive Kruboy and Grebu down to sea."
The religion among both is Paganism; but they
believe in a Great God, whom they style "Nisrah,"
intermediate between whom and the priest, or Dhrrhiu,
are the Buhs, or Gregres — various rude idols of wood
and clay.

RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES. 1 1 7
They say they cannot see or know the Great God, or
" Nisrah ;" and, therefore, it is necessary to have some
intercessory agents between them ; and for this purpose
are the Gregres, or Buhs.
They also worship evil spirits to propitiate them ; and
thus ward off the ills they consider them capable of
inflicting. The Gre'bus are more under the influence of
this latter superstition than the Krumen.
Marocho, which occurs about our Christmas period of
the year, is the greatest religious festival, but it is to
celebrate the completion of their seed sowing. The feast
continues for five or six days, during which they keep
up a succession of dancing, singing, and firing of mus
kets. Goats, ducks and fowls, or rather the blood
and heads, are offered up to their Gregres : the bodies
being reserved for the entertainment. As the season
corresponds so exactly with our Christmas, they say,
" Kruboy keep Christmas too, all same white man."
Marriage is here, as all over the west coast of Africa,
a civil contract. The man usually takes a wife when he
is about twenty years of age, after which time the num
ber increases according to his circumstances, from four —
a usual number — to as many as one hundred. Females
would thus appear to be more numerous than the males,
but having no statistics to guide us, it must rest on the
testimony of the natives that such is the case. They
even say that there are many women who cannot get
husbands, which we can only suppose must be, because
they are deficient in those lines of beauty which constitute

118 MARRIAGE CONTRACTS.
a Kru or Grebu Venus. The average number in family
could not be ascertained.
When a person is desirous of obtaining a wife, he visits
the father of the girl, who, if agreeable to the match, or
rather purchase, receives gifts from the proposing party,
or his parent. These are generally a piece of blue
cotton cloth, a brass kettle, some bars of iron, and two
or more cows, as also country money — long cylindrical
beads — much the same as those found in the Egyptian
tombs. These preliminaries having been arranged, or in
fact the wife paid for, she is brought to the husband's
house, where a rude entertainment is provided. Drinking,
dancing, and firing of muskets conclude the festivity. A
small " dash" or present is usually given by the mother
of the man as a propitiatory offering to the Buhs or
Gregres, to ensure a prolific union.
On the death of any individual, the body is kept for
two or three days ; during which they offer up prayers
incessantly to their gods in behalf of the deceased, that he
be not persecuted by evil spirits, and that he may enjoy
the new existence on which he is supposed to enter : a
sort of Irish wake is then kept up in " Kru fashion." All
this time the wives remain concealed from public view.
While the burial is going on, the Dhrrhiu, or Gregre
priest, makes " palaver," throwing various herbs over the
body, which is always covered with English or native
cloths, according to the wealth of the deceased. A bottle
of rum, together with some cooked eatables, are generally
placed on the grave over the head, together with such

DRINKING " SASSY " WATER. 1 1 9
household articles — kettles or pots, &c, as the deceased
was supposed to prize. A number of Gregres and
amulets are suspended round the grave. After three
moons, or months, prayers are again offered up for the
departed. Any woman known or suspected to have been on bad
terms with her husband is obliged, on his demise, to
drink " Sassy water," which mostly proves fatal, unless
the Dhrrhiu, or priest, is well bribed to dilute the
poisonous draught.
At a GreTiu town, near the American settlement of
Greenwell, some of the officers of H.M. S. 'Albert' wit
nessed a curious ceremony connected with drinking
" Sassy water," and which the Krumen said was gone
through after the woman had shewn her innocence. We
give it in the words of the Rev. J. Schon, one of
the clergymen employed on the expedition, who was
present : — " In a large open space between several
houses, there was a considerable number of natives of
both sexes and all ages assembled. Two women had
seated themselves under the projecting roof of a native
dwelling-house, with musical instruments — small cala
bashes garnished with iron and brass rings — and hooks
in their hands, from which they dexterously produced
the same sound, continually accompanying their instru
ments with vocal music, singing the same sentences over
and over again. On their left hand was an old man
sitting on the ground, beating a drum made out of the
trunk of a tree merely hollowed out. In front of them

120 SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY.
was a small fire ; to the right of which was a heap of
charms of various kinds, as horns, claws, teeth, and skins
of animals, filthy pieces of calico, &c. There was also
a country mortar, such as is generally used by the
natives to beat their rice in, containing a little water,
with some herbs or leaves and earth beaten up in it.
The music having continued for some time, a woman of
about forty or forty-five years of age stepped forward,
placing herself before the mortar above described. Her
legs were covered almost to her knees with iron rings,
whether as an ornament or a punishment I cannot say ;
to me they would undoubtedly have proved the latter.
Another woman then placed herself on the other side of
the mortar, and with both her hands took out some of
its contents, smearing it over the other woman's face,
chest, back, arms, and legs. This being done, the person
thus marked, decorated, or sullied, began dancing in a
small circle for a few minutes, occasionally blowing a
large horn. An old man now made his appearance, and
put a few questions to the dancing woman, which, if I
am not mistaken, were always answered in the affirma
tive, while the eyes of the woman appeared faint, and an
unnatural perspiration covered her whole body. The
old man then took two white fowls, a cock and a hen,
and speaking in a low and mysterious voice handed
them over to the great actress. She placed them first
under her left arm, after which she lifted them up with
both hands, shewing them to the people assembled. She
then took a few grains of rice, and scattered them among

AGGRI BEADS. 121
the charms which were lying in front of her, placed a
few grains on the musical instruments, and held the
heads of the fowls near the rice, which they picked up
eagerly. It appeared to me that the people were
pleased at this, and the fowls were removed out of sight
alive. A young kid was now brought forward by the
same old man, and presented to the woman who tried
whether it would eat rice ; but not a single grain being
eaten, she handed it over to the old man, who after
murmuring a few unintelligible words, not addressed to
anybody as far as I could observe, took it by its hind
legs, and with all his strength struck its head three or
four times on the ground, then turning it round swiftly,
he seized its head with both hands and knocked its body
several times on the ground with such violence that every
bone of the poor creature must have been broken.
When the kid was dead, the people walked off, and the
ceremony seemed to be over." The proper solution to
the above was : " that the woman had been obliged to
drink ' Sassy water,' which not having proved fatal, this
observance was gone through as an offering to the
Gregres, and a proof of her innocence."
Witchcraft, adultery, and domestic quarrels are the
offences for which " Sassy water" is mostly administered.
We have referred to the Aggri bead as one species
of the country money and a most valued ornament ; it is
a cylindrical, light coloured bead, exactly the same as some
of those now exhibited in the British Museum, taken from
the Egyptian sarcophagi. These are much appreciated,
especially by the Krus, and each one passes current at the

122 MODE OF SERVITUDE.
value of a Spanish dollar. The people say these beads
are very old, and that their ancestors found them growing
a long way off in the bush ; but there can be little
doubt they were obtained when their possessors inhabited
the mountain district to the north, and trafficked with
other tribes who had commercial dealings with the
Egyptians. The presence of these ornaments at such a distance
from the place where they were originally produced is a
curious fact, and may throw some light on the early
Kru history; at least it points to the probability of
their having had communication, more or less direct,
with the Egyptians : that it was no casual circumstance
is shewn from the quantity of these beads which are
found among them. Of late years, the traders on the
coast have tried to introduce imitations, but they are
immediately distinguished, and do not pass for one
twentieth of the value of the real Aggri bead.
The Krumen have for a long period been connected
with our trade on the west coast of Africa, and are
almost the only tribes who entertained such confi
dence in Englishmen as to trust themselves away from
their homes, and for an indefinite time on board ship.
This has now become so general among them — as the
only way of acquiring riches — that nearly all the male
population spend a shorter or longer term of probation,
either in trade ships or in vessels of war. The com
mencement of their eareer is by an apprenticeship
to a headman — generally an influential person, and
of great previous experience, whose duty it is to initiate

FONDNESS FOR NAVAL DRESS. 123
his " boys " — as they are called — into the various duties
the white man may require ; for this preliminary edu
cation he receives a small portion of the wages of
each of his party. Every gang of Krumen or Fishmen
has, therefore, one or more headmen, according to its
numbers, who interpret the orders and see them properly
executed. These superiors can alone punish the people
under their care, which they do with right good will
when it is necessary. Even on board vessels of war,
they are not allowed to be punished by white men, as
such a proceeding would be so offensive to either tribe,
that they would probably desert in a body.
At Sierra Leone, they have a locality called Kru Town,
where they reside until their services may be required ;
and it is amusing to notice their variety of costume on
particular occasions. Being always the highest bidders
at the sale of deceased officers' effects, articles of uniform
are purchased by them ; and it is not unusual to see one
with a post-captain's coat and epaulettes, surmounting a
waistcloth ; or another with a scanty fold of cotton round
the middle, while his head and the lower extremities are
severally encased in a cocked hat and pair of Wellington
boots. The lucky possessors of such outward insignia
of office, are fond of imitating the routine of a man-of-
war, in Kru Town, by mustering at divisions, the officer
of the watch, spy-glass in hand, reporting to the Captain,
&c. This produces emulation and a desire to serve on
board ship, and to merit a " good book " or character.
When their term of servitude has expired, they repair

124 PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS.
to their several towns with all sorts of English manu
factures, the fruit of cheerful labour, and bearing with
them recollections of civilized fife, which must even
tually be productive of good.
Although that portion of West Africa occupied by the
Grebus and Krus, is inconsiderable in extent and power,
it is distinguished from all other parts of the coast by
the free and independent character of the people. This
is so well known to the slave dealers, that they never
attempt to prosecute their vile traffic in that country,
Nothing, indeed, hurts the pride of these fine fellows
more than to insinuate that they are " esclavos," or
slaves. Nevertheless, they have among them a small
number of captives, taken in war, whom they treat with
gentleness. In physical character, the Grebus and Krus rank
among the highest in the division not inappropriately
designated by some ethnologists, the Ibu-Ashanti race.
They are generally well-made, muscular, active and very
powerful. The features of many are good, and the
chin well-formed; but in some the feet are rather
large and the nose flattened ; these latter characteristics
are particularly noticeable in those whose colour of skin
is lighter. The head inclines more to an oval, and does
not rise so high as in their eastern neighbours— the
Fantis ; and the facial angle, as far as one can judge
from ocular comparison, is in favour of the Krus and
Greous. The distinctive mark is aline tattoed along the
middle of the forehead, continued over the nose, and a

FEUDS BETWEEN GREBUS AND KRUS. 125
tripod figure on each temple* The two middle incisors
of the upper jaw are filed away, leaving an angular space.
The two tribes, Grebus and Krus, have been spoken
of under one head, as they are really one and the same
race ; but, unfortunately, an animosity exists between
them which causes each to keep aloof, and even some
times leads to intestine wars. As far as can be learned,
one great reason of it has been, the fact, that the Krus
returning with their little earnings along the coast from
Sierra Leone, have often been way-laid, robbed, and some
times murdered by the Grebus, or Fishmen. This seems
to he the secret of the ill-feeling.
If you ask a Gr^bu the character of a Kru, he says,
" Kru boy big rogue," while the latter replies of the
Grebu, " Fishman debblish big rogue," so it is merely a
question of comparative honesty between them.
That the kindly disposition of these tribes affords a
pleasing contrast to that of most other Africans, will be
confirmed when they pass more in review during the
difficulties of the Expedition ; and we gladly seize this
opportunity to bring them under the favourable notice of
those who are interested in the emigration of free blacks
to our West Indian possessions.
No people on the west coast of Africa labour so well,
so cheerfully, or for such low remuneration as the Krus
and Grebus, and even the hard and unmerited treatment
they sometimes meet with will not discourage them.
* The several admeasurements will be found in the Appendix.

126 KRU EMIGRATION RECOMMENDED.
Of the two, the Krumen would probably be found
the more useful to be employed as labourers on our
Sugar plantations, as they are more accustomed to
agricultural pursuits than the Fishmen, who look
principally to the sea to afford them occupation. It
would be very easy to engage a large number of the
former at the rate of from fifteen to twenty shillings per
mensem, paid either in money or in English goods.
A great step toward this is already gained in the long
established custom which this race of men have, and
which is unknown to the rest of the Africans, namely,
to hire themselves out at a fixed rate of pay for a term
of years. They would, therefore, go to our colonies with
a perfect understanding of what they would have to
expect and what would be expected of them. The first
thing should be to secure some intelligent and very
influential Kruman, who would be sure to carry with
him a large number of " boys," as all the subordinates
are called, to whom they would serve a sort of appren
ticeship ; among these might be mixed a few liberated
Africans, who being acquainted with the head Krumen,
and having confidence in them, would more readily em
bark in an enterprize of which they could not otherwise
comprehend the nature. The force of example may
induce others to follow, and, by degrees, with proper en
couragement to the Kru race, who, from their intelligence
and well recognised disposition to industry, must be con
sidered as leaders, a considerable number of labourers
might be procured. But it must be done in gangs, as is

WOOD FUEL SOON EXPENDED. 127
customary with ships when they engage Krumen, for it
would be hopeless to expect to get a sufficient number
to volunteer individually.*
July 18. — As we were able to procure only a
small supply of fuel here, we sailed in the afternoon
towards our rendezvous, but had not gone far along
the coast when the wood — which consumed very rapidly
— began to fail, so that reserving six hours' supply for
an emergency, we had recourse to our sails ; by means
of these, with only a light wind, an adverse current and
excessive leeway, we not only made very little progress
across the bay, between Cape Palmas and Cape Three-
points, but we soon became aware that the vessel was
setting bodily towards the land. We were, in fact, in that
most critical of all situations for a ship — embayed on
a dangerous lee-shore. In our case, however, the peril
was diminished by the certainty that the wind seldom
blows with any force on this coast, and we might
trust to our anchors when we should reach soundings.
In the early and middle part of the night, no bottom was
found by the lead, but at 3 A.M. we struck soundings.
On trying another cast, at 4.40 a.m., it had decreased
from thirty-seven to eighteen fathoms ; and five minutes
after, to ten, when we immediately anchored, and had
indeed just time to do so, as we heard the breakers roar

* Since these remarks were prepared for publication, we are happy
to find the Government has offered every encouragement to this
scheme, which we cannot help believing will be followed by the best
results.

128

THE BOTTOMLESS PIT.

with fearful warning. We could scarcely see the land,
which is here very low and covered with underwood, the
sand of the beach being of alight colour ; these, together
with the extreme darkness and gloom of the morning,
prevented our observing it till the sudden decrease of the
soundings set sharper eyes to work than those of the
drowsy look-out men.
It was indeed a providential escape, we had crossed
a part of the bay where the line of one hundred fathoms,
after running along shore at a distance of five miles,
suddenly turns sharp in towards the shore, and then
out again like a loop, having within it no soundings
at a depth of one hundred fathoms, until half a mile
from the shore. It is called the Bottomless Pit. If

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we had been set-in towards this a little sooner, we
must inevitably have been lost, as we could not have

DANGEROUS POSITION. 129
found anchorage till within the breakers. It was there
fore a mercy that soundings had not been tried half-an-
hour sooner, where we probably crossed the " Pit," in
two hundred and fifty or two hundred and seventy
fathoms : we should then have been lulled into the
belief that we were sufficiently far from the shore, and
could not have been aware of its dangerous proximity,
till too late for such a dull sailer to escape without
steam. At daylight we found we were only half a mile from
the shore, with breakers close to us, and a very heavy
surf all along the beach.
We immediately got up the steam, weighed and stood
right out to sea : when a sufficient " offing" was obtained,
we were obliged again to let the steam down, in order to
reserve the remaining fuel of only two hours — for a
future emergency. This, unfortunately, soon occurred,
as before midnight it fell calm, and we were again drifted
within two miles of this shore of ill-omen. Anchored
till daylight.
July 21. — With the steam, and a light air, we
luckily secured a good offing by the time the last piece
of wood was expended. We thus were enabled to pass
Cape Three-points ; which, having now a strong current
in our favour, we did in good style.
Soon after this, calm again obliged us to anchor off
a place called Bobsum Accra. A very heavy surf here
also gave little prospect of being able to procure wood.
A boat was however sent to try to communicate with
VOL. I. K

130 A SUDDEN DEATH.
the natives ; Mr. Toby, mate^ having volunteered for this
dangerous service. He succeeded in landing ; but, in
attempting to come off again, the boat was swamped,
upset, and all were thrown by the surf on the beach,
where the natives— being a friendly tribe — rendered
them prompt assistance. If such a thing had
occurred in the bay of the "Bottomless Pit," they
would probably have all been put to death, as the
natives of that part are hostile.
The catastrophe was witnessed by all on board, who
were anxiously looking on. Mr. Toby and his men
were kindly treated by the chief of the village, to whom
a present was afterwards sent. By their assistance, the
Krumen, with their usual dexterity and cheerfulness!,
got the boat through the surf on the following
morning, and all arrived safely on board.
A melancholy event occurred in the evening, a
liberated African, about twenty-two years of age, and
apparently in good health, after uttering an exclamation,
suddenly expired. He had a few minutes before been
speaking with some of his companions, on the prospect
of soon seeing their native land. An attempt was
made to bleed him, but in vain, stertorous breathing
was observed for a few seconds, and he died almost
instantly, without doubt, of apoplexy. Of this, indeed,
Dr. Pritchett was so firmly convinced, that he thought
it unnecessary to shock the prejudices of the coloured
people by examining the body.
There were, unfortunately, at this time several cases
of fever on board, principally among the West Indian

DEATH FROM FEVER. 131
blacks who were shipped in England, on the supposition
that they would enjoy an immunity from the fatal
effects which the climate has upon European consti
tutions. It was very tantalizing to be so near our rendezvous
and resources — for we could almost see Cape Coast
Castle— without being able to move, as it continued
calm ; a boat, however, was sent to communicate with
Captain Trotter, and apprize him of our position.
July 24. — Last night Henry Halbert breathed his
last. He was a Mulatto, born at Falmouth, and had
not served much within the tropics. Soon after the
laborious work of wooding at Grand Bassa, he was seized
with fever, which though severe at first, admitted some
hope of recovery, as his mouth was affected by the mer
curial remedies. On the 21st, however, the ptyalism
suddenly ceased, and the ease went rapidly on to a fatal
termination. His remains and those of Wright, were
consigned to the deep, after the usual solemn funeral
service, which was most devoutly attended by all the
crew. We weighed at 6.30. a.m. and with a fight air
stood towards our port.
About noon we observed the ' Soudan' steaming
towards us, she took us in tow, having been despatched
by Captain Trotter for that purpose immediately he
became acquainted with our difficulties. We arrived
in the afternoon at Cape Coast Castle, where we found
all our little squadron assembled.
Although the rollers were here also very heavy, we
K 2

132 THE GOLD COAST.
immediately commenced the operations of taking in coals,
stores, provisions, goods for the Model Farm, &c. from
the transport, and sending on board of her such articles
as we were not likely to want in the river, but which
were to be landed at Fernando Po.
The Commissioners went on shore to the Castle, and
presented Lord John Russell's letter to Mr. President
M'Lean, who professed his cordial desire to forward our
views. The country around Cape Coast is for the most part
flat, and, therefore, only presents a line of elevated
tropical foliage, enlivened by the large and well-built
fortress, which stands forth in bold relief from the sur
rounding dark green, on a rock close to the sea. Cape
Coast may be considered the most important of the
European settlements on that portion of the coast,
termed, par excellence, "the Gold Coast," which is
comprised within the following limits : from 1° 10' east
longitude, to 3° 20' west longitude, and running nearly
along the parallel of 5° 10' north latitude. Of the
various settlements which have been at different times
attempted on this coast by our countrymen, only four
now remain ; Dix Cove, Cape Coast Castle, Anamaboe,
and Accra ; while the Danish and Dutch have also a few
factories and forts, of which St. George Del Mina,* near
Cape Coast, and Christianberg near Accra, are the prin
cipal. Perhaps the cause of the decadence of all the others;
* Del Mina, so named by the first Dutch settlers finding gold
and supposing the mine to be near. The discoverer was ennobled
with the title of "El-Mina."

GOVERNOR M'LEAN'S POLICY. 133
and the slow progress of those which remain, may be traced
to the Ashanti wars, which, while they depopulated the
Fanti country, broke up the commercial interchanges,
which before those unfortunate occurrences, were be
ginning to expand. It would be foreign to the purpose
of this narrative, either to trace the history of our pos
sessions on that coast, or to enter on the " casus belli"
which have impoverished them. Mr. Becham's excellent
work on Ashanti, pourtrays too clearly our mismanage
ment and its consequences. Under the able governance
of Captain M'Lean, it is generally admitted that much
had been done towards amelioration — trade had im
proved, though slowly, and the attention of the natives
had been turned to agriculture ; while he endeavoured to
introduce future elements for raising the social and moral
condition of the people under his care, by instituting
schools, a printing-press, all of which, though now pro
ducing so little fruit, will eventually, it is to be hoped,
yield a good harvest. Above all, he established a rigid
system of justice, and such was the influence he gained
over them by moral force, that even distant chiefs came
at his summons, to await his decision in cases of dissen
sions, which would otherwise have led to wars. The
great drawback to the furtherance of any useful object
among these people, is, in the first place, their evident
inferiority to many other African races, in their mental
and physical characters; strongly marked by their
indisposition to any continuous employment or useful
application of means conducive to their own improvement.
Indolent as we, alas, know the African too often to be,

134

A NOISY CREW.

here we find among the Fantis the very personification
of idleness. To remove this, and to stimulate them
to useful exertion, was one of Mr. President M'Lean's
great objects.
Sunday 25. — The remaining cases of fever are pro
gressing favourably. After divine service to-day,
performed by our estimable chaplain, Mr. Miiller, all on
board were much amused by the appearance of a large
canoe coming from the shore, having two Europeans in
the bow and about forty " pull-a-boys," or black paddlers ;
their noisy vociferation — as with rapid and simultaneous
strokes they forced the long canoe through the water —
was anything but pleasing to the ear. Instead of
coming alongside at once, they pulled several times
round the vessel at the top of their speed, singing out
in loud chorus, " Pull away — pull away— Gubbemor
come, Gubbernor come, Gubbernor come ;" then with
three cheers they darted her up alongside, when it was
discovered to be Governor M'Lean, who, notwithstanding
his control over the people, could not induce the " pull-
a-boys" to forego a ceremony which they conceived would
add to his dignity-
26th. — The landing to-day was anything but pleasant,
the surf all along the shore being great, and the sharks
are said to be both numerous and voracious ; but the
natives are expert, and know the favourable moment
when to push for the landing-place, which is round a
little rock not far from the outer bastion of the fort.
Although we possess nothing beyond the walls, the

PENSILE NESTS OF WEAVER-BIRDS. 135
native town, with its chief and a population of about six
thousand, is quite as much under the influence of
the Governor of the Castle as if subject to it. With
the exception of a few English houses, the town
consists of straggling lines of mud-huts, to which little
clusters of Palm trees and an occasional Tamarind,
add a look of coolness, even under the burning sun of
that coast. ' Suspended from the graceful leaf of the
former, we noticed some of the curious and interesting
nests of the Ploceus textor, or Weaver-bird ; formed
principally of little shreds of dried grass and palm-
leafy neatly interwoven into an oval-shape, and having
a founded aperture at the upper part ; they are fastened
by several long grassy filaments to the palm branch, and
have a beautiful effect, while their chattering occupants,
decorated in their rufous-brown and rich yellow plumage;
flitted about as if fearful of our intrusive visit. We
must admire the provident instinct evinced in this
arrangement of the nests ; ensuring protection for the
eggs and young, which, in the breeding season, would
otherwise be destroyed by the numerous snakes.
On entering several of the huts, the men were
found lying about as if there was no possible occasion'
for Working, while the women were employed in some
of their simple household duties. The Fantis are
thoroughly superstitious ; near most of the dwellings
could be observed some rude clay or wooden objects,
intended for Fetiche worship, and they have their lucky
and unlucky days ; on the latter, of course, no work is
done, from a belief that it would be unsuccessful.

136 SEARCHING FOR GOLD DUST.
Mr. Freeman, missionary, an active and useful man
from all that could be learned, as well as a consistent
Christian, who had already made himself well known by
his mission to Kumassi, was proceeding steadily with
his labours among the Fantis — and seemed to have some
hope of their improvement.
While rambling about the town, we found several
women engaged in washing the sand left in the little
channels caused by the late rains; from which they
procured a small quantity of gold dust. Roscher pur
chased a small but pure sample at a moderate price.
It is to be feared that this searching after the gold
is one of the employments which militates against the
improvement of the natives. It is a speculative one,
sometimes yielding a fair day's return, at others
nothing ; but as the whole labour falls on the women,
the lazy Fanti looks on unconcerned, since the expendi
ture of the proceeds is usually on his own tastes and
pleasures — drinking and smoking.
The natives have several ways of adulterating the
gold dust, with filings of copper, brass, &c, it is then
called Krakra, but English merchants, by long experience,
easily detect it.
The Akim gold is considered the best, having only
from four to seven per cent, dross ; the next in quality
is that from Accra, while that of Cape Coast is the
least valuable, having sometimes from fifteen to twenty
per cent, dross.

CHAPTER VII.
Messrs. B. Marshall and W. H. Webb volunteer to proceed overland
to the confluence of the Niger and Chadda — Resting-place of the
gifted L. E. L. — Inscription on the tomb — Fanti soldiers — Indolence
of the natives — Dress — Marriages — Gold ornaments usually buried
with females — Native method of carrying children — Ornithology —
The oriole babbler — Its singular note — Fanti canoe men — Singing
and paddling — Mr. Schwansey's model garden — Botany and soil —
Governor M'Lean settles a dispute between two Akim chiefs —
Isert, the philanthropic Botanist — Growth of coffee — Doctor Vogel's
anxiety for his collection — Accra — Its superior salubrity — Gregre
idols, or Fetiches — Manufacture of gold ornaments — Moral and
physical condition of the people on the Gold Coast — Fanti language —
Appearance of the natives — Sail from Accra — Heavy sea — Employed
removing Model Farm property from the transport — Liability to
mistake the Sengana for the River Nun — Rollers off the mouth of
the river — Curious appearance of the " Meeting of the "Waters."
Two officers of the Expedition, Mr. Marshall, surgeon,
and Mr. Webb, mate of the ' Soudan,' actuated by zeal
and the spirit of enterprise, volunteered their services to
travel overland from this place — Cape Coast Castle —
through Ashanti, to meet the Expedition at the upper
part of the Niger. The Commissioners consulted

138 VOLUNTEERS FOR AN OVERLAND EXPEDITION.
Mr. President M'Lean on the feasibility of the project ;
which he at one declared to be impracticable, especially
at this season of the year. There were also other very
serious objections in addition to those adduced by the
President, which related to the difficulty and risk of such
an undertaking. In the first place, it was very question
able whether a sufficient motive had been made out.
Secondly, we had only the requisite number of officers for
the duties of the vessels, and especially while we were
ignorant of the demand which the well-known sickliness of
the climate would make on the medical officers, it would
be imprudent to spare one for detached service. Thirdly,
it was uncertain whether we should, in the vessels, be
able to reach the " Upper Niger" — in itself a vague term ;
but admitting this, it would have been impossible for
travellers overland through unknown countries, to arrive
at any given spot on the banks of the Niger in time to
meet us there. We thought the converse of this plan
might have been practicable, if the strength and zeal of
the officers should still prompt them to the dangerous
undertaking ; that is to say, in the event of our reaching
Bussah or its neighbourhood, a traveller starting from
thence in the dry season, might with comparative ease
come through Yarriba and Ashanti to the coast. Presi
dent M'Lean promised to send timely instructions to
the chiefs, to ensure a safe conduct should such be
attempted. This energetic Governor entered readily in fact into

CAPE COAST CASTLE. 139
all our views, and promised every assistance in his power
in furtherance of them.
Captain Tucker, also, the senior officer on the coast,
whom we fortunately fell in with, gave the most cordial
offers of co-operation. An order from the Admiralty
directed that a vessel of his squadron should be anchored
off the mouth of the Rio Nun, and remain there while
the Expedition should be up the river, in order to be
able to render assistance in case of emergency.
The strict system of blockade which this lamented
officer had already established, enabled him easily to
comply with this, and he gave general instructions to
the officers in his squadron to aid us on all occasions.
We were fully occupied during our stay at Cape Coast
Castle in trans-shipping from the transport our stores and
provisions, and the goods for the Model Farm ; profiting
by the fineness of the weather here — though there was
much inconvenience from the heavy swell — in order that
we might be detained a shorter time off the entrance to
the Niger, where it might not be so favourable, and cer
tainly would be less healthy.
In the meantime, Governor M'Lean's hospitable invi
tations induced all the officers who could be spared to visit
the Castle, where he left nothing undone which could add
to their comfort or amusement. This edifice is large,
strongly built and commodious ; furnished in a manner
that would appear scanty to persons whose ideas of
comfort require a well carpetted room, &c. But it was
very suitable to a climate, where it is desirable above all

140 GRAVE OF L. E. L.
things, that superfluous furniture should be discarded, in
order that the aspect should conduce as much as pos
sible to the idea of coolness.
In passing across the square within the walls, an
object of deep interest presents itself in the little space
containing all that was mortal of the late Mrs. M'Lean ;
the once well-known, amiable and accomplished L. E. L.
A plain marble slab, bearing the following inscription, is
placed over the spot :
Hie jacet sepultum,
Omne quod mortale fuit
Letitle Elizabeths M'Lean,
Quam egregia ornatam indole, Musis
Unice amatam. Omniumque amores
Secum trahentem; in ipso setatis fiore,
Mors immatura rapuit.
Die Octobris xv., mdcccxxxviii. ^Etatis xxxvi.
Quod spectas viator marmor vanum
Heu doloris monumentum
Conjux mserens erexit.
The beams of the setting sun threw a rich but sub
dued colouring over the place, and as we stood in sad
reflection on the fate of the gifted poetess, some fine
specimens of the Hirundo Senegalensis, or African
swallow, fluttered gracefully about, as if to keep watch
over a spot sacred indeed to the Muses ; while the noise
of the surf, breaking on the not distant shore, seemed to
murmer a requiem over departed genius.
The troops of the garrison consisted of about eighty

DRESS OF THE FEMALES. 141
men, under Captain M'Lean — the brother of the
Governor ; who had got them into fair discipline, which
we can well imagine to have been no easy matter, con
sidering the antipathy these people have to any sort of
active exercise.
Everywhere there seemed to be abundance of good
fruit, Pine-apples, Plantains, Bananas, and some Oranges,
as well as vegetables ; labour is the only requisite to
produce almost anything from the soil, which is too rich
for such indolent possessors.
• • We observed here, as at several points along the coast,
that some of the people were more or less daubed with
clay ; this is practised by those who are suffering from
disease ; being one of the principal native methods of
cure for many disorders, especially head-aches and febrile
attacks. The only clothing worn by them is a waist-cloth of
blue and white cotton of native manufacture, or hand
kerchiefs of Manchester stuff, with strings of beads
round the neck, waist and ankles.
The female usually marries, or more properly enters on
a state of concubinage, at fifteen, when all the gold orna
ments and dresses she can muster are displayed on her
person. At her decease, any of these which may
actually have been her own property are buried with her ;
but as the body is generally interred within the hut,
they are not often allowed to remain : the Fantis having
less compunction than any Africans, we know, about
disturbing the dead.

142 CANOE MEN OF CAPE COAST.
The women always carry their infants about with
them, seated on a little pad or cushion, called a kanki,
secured to the mother behind.
Some nice specimens of ornithology were procured in
the neighbouring woods, one of these the Crateropus
Oriolides, or Oriole babbler, possesses a varied and
pleasing note, and may be ranked as the highest of
African warblers. It sometimes whistles so truly like a
person going through a native air, that the sportsman
is often deterred from firing, under the impression
that there must be a woolly-headed performer in the
bush, until the anxious specimen-hunter becomes im
patient and silences the little songster.
The surf on embarking was very bad, and brought
into play all the experience and care of our Fanti
canoe men. The canoes are of different sizes, most of them
being suitable for about eight or ten persons, while others
have as many as thirty or forty in their crew ; they are
flat-bottomed, and rise a little at each end. The passen
gers are placed in the bow, which is surrounded by high
" weather-boards," to " fend off" the spray of the surf.
Before launching the canoe, they watch for a lull, in
which they shove off ; but in going through the worst
part of the surf they paddle slowly, chanting a sort of
solemn dirge, which is intended to propitiate their
Fetiche, and ensure safety. When past all danger, they
strike out in good style — if they expect to be well
paid — using their broken English to sing some subject
connected with the passengers, and every now and then

MODEL PLANTATION. 143
hitting the side of the canoe with the paddle. The fol
lowing is a sample : " Man o' war come again — come
again — come again," repeated over and over, with an
occasional " whish," during which they take a long slow
stroke ; then probably will come in " White man — good
man, dash a dollar, dollar, dollar," " White offisher dash
dollar, big white dollar," &c. They say, " Plenty money,
plenty song."
The Ashantee princes, Quantamissah and John Ansah,
were sent from the ' Albert' to the care of Governor
M'Lean. As much expense has been incurred by friends
who take an interest in the scions of African royalty,
and much good ought to be anticipated from their
example among the Ashantis, it is to be hoped they may
justify, by their conduct, the expectations that have been
formed of them.
One of the spots near Cape Coast well worth
a visit is the model garden and plantation under the
superintendence of Mr. Schwansey, an English merchant,
who has been endeavouring for some years to introduce
a better system of culture. It is called Napoleon, and is
about four or five miles from the town. The road thither
is somewhat tortuous and bad, but the scenery is fine.
Like everything else connected with Cape Coast, it suf
fered much during the Ashanti wars, and no one but
an enterprising and zealous man would have made an
attempt to support it.
Almost every species of tropical fruit and vegetable
grows well, and even the bread fruit (Artocarpus incisa)

144 GROWTH OF COFFEE.
was visible, with its rich dark foliage. Some attention
has also been paid to the growth of coffee, but it does
not remunerate the cultivator. It seems to be a strange,
but certain fact, that although the small-grained coffees
of the greater part of West Africa, more especially Sierra
Leone and Cape Coast, are admitted to be equal in flavour
to the general descriptions of Mocha, there should be so
little remunerative inducement to cultivate it. Does
this proceed from the duty levied on its arrival in Eng
land? or does the difficulty of procuring continuous
labour among the natives occasion it? That coffee
could be made one of the best articles of export cannot
be doubted ; why it is not so may be better explained
by those who understand the causes operating against
its more general cultivation and increase in our West
African settlements.
With the exception of a half-shrubby Cassia, some
what similar to the Occidentalis or Stink-weed senna,
but with a round divided fruit, there is nothing of
botanical novelty near the town ; nor at such a season
— the conclusion of the rains — could much be expected,
even in the interior. In an excursion of six miles, not
one Monocotyledon was met with in flower, although
many are said to be found in the dry season, of the
most beautiful colours. The difference of the vegetation
between this and Cape Palmas is in general very great.
Here the Leguminosa were predominant, and the
Rubiacea less prevalent. The Mimosa, with their
graceful characteristic foliage, which had hitherto been

DISPUTE SETTLED. 145
seen but rarely, now became conspicuous. The country
was varied with hill and dale, covered with shrubs six or
seven feet high, while here and there lofty cotton trees
towered on high, or the less assuming iron-wood tree, a
species apparently of Siderodendron. One tree of con
siderable height was found to be in flower and fruit, and
seemed to be a new genus allied to Crescentia ; the
fruit is filled with firm, solid pulp, two feet long, half a
foot broad, hanging downwards, as also the flowers, by
a long pedicle. There was also the magnificent Fan palm,
but not abundant ; and from a few stems noticed, it is
probable that some sorts of Calamus are common further
inland. The Poinciana pulcherrima, or Barbadoes
fence flower, in full bloom, lined the road-sides, inter
spersed with yellow Composita. At the west end of
the town, a beautiful avenue of Hibiseus was a most
interesting feature.
We had an opportunity of witnessing the arrange
ment of one of the numerous disputes which are referred
to the Governor from all parts of the neighbouring
country — of itself a sufficient proof they consider him to
be impartial and wise in his administrations.
The case was explained by native interpreters to be a
feud between two Akim chiefs, but in such a round-about
way, that no person could make much of it, except that
some one was guilty of having committed murder and
outrage. Governor M'Lean here shewed his perfect esti
mate of the Fanti character, by punishing both. However
strange it may sound to an Englishman's ears, it was at
VOL. I. L

146 ARRIVE AT ACCRA.
least a verdict likely to be of use to them. Similar to
making each party pay his own costs in our own courts of
jurisdiction, it would diminish the tendency to aggression,
while both appeared to be perfectly satisfied with the
decision. When the case was terminated, the disputants
withdrew, amid loud plaudits at the Governor's sagacity,
and beating of drums and tomtoms. Each of the chiefs
was carried away in a palanquin, attended by his sword-
bearer, cane-bearer, tail-bearer, and many followers.
Saturday, July 31. — The 'Wilberforce' sailed this
morning, from Cape Coast Castle, the 'Albert' and 'Sou
dan' having preceded us last night. We were ordered to
tow the transport, if necessary. That vessel, bowever,
sailed so well that she was soon out of sight : but in this
case the race was not to the swift, as we arrived before
her at British Accra, about noon, on the 1st of August,
and she anchored in the evening. At this place, fresh
provisions were procured ; and some large canoes for
service in the river had already been purchased by
President M'Lean for the Expedition.
Dr. Vogel, the botanist, and Dr. Stanger, our geolo
gist, made an excursion to Danish Accra, for which
Governor M'Lean kindly furnished the means. They
set out in two little carriages, each drawn by four
negroes — here also the ordinary way for Europeans to
travel. They were introduced to Mr. Dall, the Danish
Governor, by Mr. Richter, a Danish merchant, and by Mr.
M'Lean. " The forts here inhabited by the Europeans,
are not important ; they consist of a few large houses,

EXCURSION TO DANISH ACCRA. 147
with lofty, airy rooms, surrounded by a wall and breast
work, white-washed, and conspicuous at a great distance.
This is classic ground for a botanist ; for here Isert and
Thonning formed the collections which have made the
world acquainted with this Flora. The humane spirit
of Isert, so zealously expressed in his writings on behalf
of the negroes, rendered this place very interesting ; the
more so, as we were engaged in an enterprise aiming at
the same objects which he had endeavoured to attain
during the last years of his life. No authentic informa
tion could be obtained of Isert's establishments in the
interior : after his decease they had gone to decay. Mr.
De Kohns, who was reported to have assumed the
management, and introduced the plough, and who was
represented in various works to have done so much,
never got here, as Mr. Richter and the Danish Governor
positively declared. Since Isert's time, indeed, no one has
troubled himself about these plantations ; and about the
year 1808 they were altogether given up. Everything
is now a wilderness, and the place is not to be recog
nised. Flindt established about this time another plan
tation, on the River Volta, near the port, the main object
being distillation; but this was soon dropped. About
ten years back, another plantation was made at the foot
of the mountain in Aguapim, named ' Frederick's gave ;'
and as they wished to visit it, Mr. Dall had the kindness
to indulge them, though he said it was not important,
and the superintendent being sick, that it would not be
in a very satisfactory state. The distance is fourteen or
l 2

148 BOTANY.
fifteen miles : the only way of getting there is by a sort
of palanquin or basket, carried by means of two poles,
on the heads of two, sometimes four, negroes. Mr.
Dall, by providing abundantly for all their wants, caused
the cortege to amount, to about sixteen persons. The
direction, according to the compass, was almost exactly
N. by E. They started at half-past eleven o'clock. The
greatest part of the way was through Savannahs, covered
with grasses and Cyperacea, intermixed with many spe
cies of shrubby and half shrubby Leguminosa, besides
many Malvacea, though only a few species. Trees
were scattered about, viz., Bombax, the genus of Cape
Coast, which appears related to Crescentia, Ficus,
Fan palms, Euphorbia drussifera, quite distinct on
account of its naked spur-like branches, with only a
few stiff leaves at the extreme points ; and near the
village and huts, Tamarinds and Hibiscus. Near the
coast the soil is sandy, like decomposed sandstone ; it
now improved, and served for the culture of Indian corn,
Cassava, Yams, Arachis, various sorts of Cucurbita,
and Bananas. Cocos were cultivated but little here, or in
any part of Africa which we have seen. They crossed
several ridges of hills, affording pleasant views over the
surrounding country, covered with fresh green, and got
then into the jungle, where the shrubs common on this
coast grew abundantly, about a man's height, and closely
interwoven with creepers. Leguminosa diminished,
Rubiacea increased, and Sarcocephalus, described by
Schumacher as Cephalina esculenta, was not uncommon.

BOTANY. 149
They arrived at the settlement towards six o'clock p.m.,
too late to see much. The house of the superintendent
lies half-way up the mountain ridge, and is roomy and
comfortable. Being white-washed, it is seen far off. At
the foot of the mountain is a negro village and the
plantation. Having passed the night comfortably, in
consequence of the friendly care of Mr. Dall, and being
supplied with every convenience, they were up at the
dawn of day — thermometer, 73f Fahr. The mountain
is quartz rock, covered in many places — often to the thick
ness of several feet — with vegetable mould, overgrown,
when not cultivated, with brushwood. The site of the
house was at an elevation of one thousand feet. One
hundred feet above it was a high Oil palm. The brush
wood consisted chiefly of Rubiacea, interwoven with
Convolvuli ; few in flower, and none remarkable. In
the plantation were the usual edible plants of this
country. The settlement consists of a coffee ground of
no great extent. Governor Dall said, that about three
years back, the trees had been destroyed by an insect ;
and they were now very small, three to four feet high,
but thriving, and bearing abundantly. The soil is excel
lent, and rich ; but the establishment looks neglected,
which must be ascribed to the absence of the superin
tendent. Close by is another coffee ground belonging
to Mr. Richter. Near these grounds is an avenue of
Sour-sops, Anona muricata, and oranges; and close
by, several trees, just now with ripe fruit, clearly the

150 dr. vogel's exertions.
Akee, or Blighia sapida. These seemed to have been
planted ; but on looking into Schumacher's description
of Guinea plants, Cupania edulis is mentioned as an in
digenous tree, which is probably identical with the above."
On Dr. Vogel's return on board H.M.S. ' Wilber
force,' with his usual anxiety to advance the branch of
science committed to his charge, his first duty was to
shift his whole collection, especially that made during
our stay at Cape Coast ; but although he had taken the
greatest care, he found many specimens spoiled, and
almost all in a bad state.
As it is possible that some persons may have been
Surprised at the imperfect and unsatisfactory condition
of the herbarium made by that talented and persevering
botanist, we subjoin a passage from his manuscript,
which will shew the difficulties in which he was placed
from the unavoidable want of space on board ship ;
but even though surrounded by the numerous dis
advantages inseparable from a position afloat, the result
of his labours evidenced, that had he been spared to
make a deeper research into the Flora of Western Africa,
he would have left little undone.
He says, " It has been my lot with almost all my
collections on this coast, that with endless labour, I could
only get together ill-conditioned plants; for dampness
and want of room were obstacles impossible to overcome,
and they forced me at last to satisfy myself with the
miserable consolation that I have done all that the cir-

DAMP CLIMATE. 151
cumstances would permit.* I mention this on purpose
that, in case my collection should come into other hands,
I may not be accused of negligence. I have sacrificed
every convenience to give rooms, and spared no trouble
to overcome the dampness of the ship and the atmo
sphere, but without success. The general arrangements
of a man-of-war do not allow much chance for such
experiments. When will the time arrive when expedi
tions, whose results must depend on the observations of
naturalists, will afford them the necessary and appropriate
support ? At present, the vessels are fitted up for other
purposes, and it is left to chance to discover a little nook
for the philosopher. I was now obliged to devote the
two days that we still remained at Accra to the drying
of my collection, that all might not be lost."
Accrah or Accra, is the most eastern of the British
factories on the Gold Coast, and as far as the eye is
concerned, is the worst situated, being built on even
lower ground than Cape Coast Castle ; but there is less
of the thick underwood which prevails near the latter,
and more general attention is paid on the part of the
natives, to keep the superfluous vegetation under.
The Danes have a factory (Christiansberg) at a short
distance from ours, which is said to be well regulated,
and business is rather on the increase. The small one
belonging to the Dutch is unimportant.
* To this Captain Allen strongly bears testimony. One great cause
of the lamented doctor's disappointment, was his excusable ignorance
of the amount of available space in a man-of-war.

152

ACCRA.

Like Cape Coast, the most prominent feature is the
fort, the white-washed front of which, though dilapi
dated, serves to shew out more strongly the flat
character of the surrounding country.
The surf here is very bad, and extends much further
out than at most other places ; nevertheless, it is
generally possible to land at the expense of a good
wetting. Some of the English houses are large, and
comfortably arranged for the climate, especially Mr.
Bannerman's. Accra has the reputation of being the most healthy
point along the coast, although the statistics of our
military, when they were formerly employed there, show
a mortality quite incompatible with this belief, and one
more in accordance with the low and insalubrious
appearance of the locality. The native dwellings are
much the same as at Cape Coast, but, if anything,
dirtier, while their tenants are decidedly behind their
neighbours in improvement. At several places Fetiche
figures of various characters were displayed ; some of
them pro bono publico, yet without any want of others,
private or household. Most parts of the town are
intersected with deep water-courses, formed during the
rains, which, if not thus carried off, would form an
unwholesome marsh.
The only occupation of any importance among the
natives is the searching after gold, and its subsequent
manufacture into various trinkets. The latter is only
followed by a few whose position is more respectable.

EXPORTS OF ACCRA. 153
Their instruments are few and extremely rude, yet they
make very beautiful chains, and finish them in a style
hardly to be expected from such imperfect means. The
rings are mostly plaited, of a fine cable-twisted wire, and
are pretty. The chief value of the jewellery of this
and the other places on the coast, arises from the purity
of the gold employed, scarcely any alloy being admitted.
Many of the articles sent from thence to Europe are
melted down, and re-manufactured with a remunerative
admixture of less valuable metals.
The exports of Cape Coast and Accra are more
valuable than abundant, being principally gold dust,
ivory, gums, palm oil, coffee, and latterly, the ground
nut, Arachis hypogea, which, as containing an excel
lent oil, is much in demand. The imports are chiefly
cotton goods, earthenware, muskets, knives, gun
powder, beads, aguadiente, tobacco, and such European
luxuries as are required by our countrymen resident
there. All our merchants regretted the former unfortunate
collisions with the Ashanti kingdom, and spoke of
of them as having destroyed the fair prospect which once
existed of opening up the interior of Africa to our com
merce, and the gradual diffusion of more enlightened
views among the native Princes. At one time, the
amount of British manufactures carried to Kumasi was
very great, but it almost ceased with the Ashanti wars ;
and although said to be of late somewhat increasing, it
will require a long period to re-establish the traffic,

154 language of the fantis.
which does not now extend more than forty or fifty miles
from the sea-coast.
Although Accra is under the jurisdiction of Cape
Coast, and is within the Fanti country, a large part of
the population is from the adjacent tribes of Agoona
and Inkran, as well as from others more in the interior.
Before leaving this, it is, perhaps, better to say some
thing on the moral condition and physical characters of
a people with whom in our possessions there, we have
had much intercourse.
The Fantis inhabit that part of the Gold Coast
included between the River Sekoom, 0° 2' west longitude,
and Cape Three-points, 1° 58' west longitude. In this
distance all are not pure Fantis, but such admixture has
taken place, as obliges us thus to dispose of them. That
all the tribes included in this portion of the coast, and
thence inland to Ashanti, have had one common origin,
and are probably included in one race — the Inta — appears
in the numerous philological coincidences met with in
examining the several dialects as far as they have yet
been obtained. Even at Accra — which some suppose
to have been peopled by a distinct race — perhaps the
mountain negroes of Adampi — the language offers many
similarities, as mentioned by Mr. De Graft. Whether
this depends on the intercourse which has obtained of
later years between that and other portions of the
coast, remains to be proved. Mr. Bowdich states that the
Ashantis have a popular belief that the As-hantis, Fantis,
Was-sang, Akims, Assins, Aquambus, were included

THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTER. 155
in twelve tribes or families, each having a symbol of its
own, and which yet connects the scattered members of
each to one another.
In general, the Fantis on the sea-coast have an
appearance of height somewhat above the middle size,
but which, in reality, is not so ; the too frequent lean
ness of the body and meagreness of the extremities
causing this. The joints are large and bony, as also the
hands and feet, which are quite African in shape. The
head is round, rather than oval, and rises to such an
extent as to present much of what is styled the pyra
midal form of cranium. The face is long, and the
chin prognathous, or protruding forward, more than in
any other race we have met with ; the nose frequently
flat, the lips thick, and ears large. The skin is brownish-
black ; in many of them dry, and inclined to be harsh ; it
has little gloss. The females, although not much better
featured, are often in better condition, their skin softer,
and their appearance generally more prepossessing than
the other sex. We looked in vain to realize any of the
descriptions given by Barbot of the physical charac
ters of these people. Skin affections and country
fevers are the most common diseases, with sometimes
dysentery. They are under the nominal dominion of chiefs or
caboceers, of whom King Agry, at Cape Coast, is one of
the most influential. Each of the different towns or
krooms, has a pynim or chief magistrate. Since the
Ashanti wars, they have been more or less tributary to

156 DEPARTURE FROM ACCRA.
the latter, although the large annual fine or exaction,
once so oppressive, no longer exists.
In all probability, the Ashantis would have extermi
nated them had not British influence raised up a barrier
for their protection in the friendly relations established
between Kumasi and the authorities at Cape Coast
Castle. As before stated, Governor M'Lean has
directed much attention to the improvement of those
under his especial charge, as also to raise them in the
estimation of their neighbours ; but such is the degraded
state of the people, and their antipathy to a change of
their moral, social, or religious condition, that no one
but an enthusiast can hope much for them.
Wednesday, August 4. — The Expedition left Accra
for its final rendezvous off the mouth of the Niger.
The ' Wilberforce ' weighed at 8 p.m., and having the
' Soudan ' in tow, we made less rapid progress than the
' Albert.' The ' Amelia ' tender kept company with us.
Sunday, August 8. — In the evening, the weather
being extremely bad, with squalls, a heavy sea and a
great deal of rain, we were obliged to cast off the
' Soudan ' to shift for herself.
Soon afterwards we struck soundings in twenty-three
fathoms, and therefore stood off and on shore till day
light, when we anchored abreast of the mouth of a river ;
but from the excessive gloom of the weather, it was quite
impossible to ascertain which of the many outlets of the
Niger. We remained at anchor all day. The air was charged

THE EMBOUCHURE OF THE NIGER. 157
with electricity, and had a very depressing effect ; while
the low and dense clouds hung over the prospect like
an impenetrable veil. On the following morning, we
made out that we had anchored off the Rio Sengana ;
as it cleared up, we saw H. M. S. ' Albert' and ' Buzzard'
lying about eight miles to the S. E.
Weighed and ran towards them ; and in the course of
the day all the Expedition assembled off the Rio Nun,
by which mouth of the Niger we intended to enter.
The weather was so bad here and with such a heavy sea,
especially in shallow water, that the vessels were obliged
to anchor eight or nine miles from the entrance of the river.
The heavy rolling very much impeded our operation of
taking in our last supply of coals, stores and provisions,
and even rendered it dangerous to the boats and the
men employed in them. The goods, especially, belong
ing to the Model Farm, were difficult to remove, on
account of the weight, bulk and quantity. The pro
moters of that auxiliary undertaking being naturally
anxious to ensure its prosperity as far as depended on
their exertions, had spared no expense in providing
everything which could be required for its advancement.
It would perhaps have been better for them, and would
have caused much less delay to the Expedition if these
supplies, so generously furnished, had been proportioned
to the progressive wants of an infant settlement.
When the freshes came out, the line of demarcation
between the river and sea-water could be distinctly
traced for many miles along the shore with its tortuous

158 MARKED OUTLINE OF THE FRESHES.
line of foam, the salient points indicating the various
debouchures. The colour of the fresh-water was of a
loamy yellow, that of the salt-water an olive green. The
contention between them was very remarkable on first
coming in contact, but being specifically lighter, the mas
tery of the former over its huge opponent was certain and
quite palpable to the eye, though the conquest seemed to
require effort on the part of the aggressor ; the ebullition
was indeed so great that the water came in at the cabin
windows, which had not occurred before, with all the
heavy swell we had experienced on this coast.
At this time the current was observed to set one mile
per hour towards S.W.

CHAPTER VIII.
The Expedition enters the Nun branch of the Niger — Death of Bach,
the instrument-maker from fever — Physical characters of the mouth
of the river — Curious effect of the rising tide — Chemical ex
amination of the waters — Geology — Shells — Bodies of females
exposed on thesea-beach— Surprise of thfiinatives tit our interest
in them— "Woods on the right bank — Beautiful birds — The black
swallow— Rhyncops, or scissor-bill — Dangers of seining — Saw
fish sharks— Th»vulageofAkassa — Dwellings of the natives— Their
customs — Diseases of the natives — The Chief, Enemery — ' Boy's'
traffic with Aboh— * Jack Fire'— The Reverend J. Midler's prayer-
Pass through Louis Creek — Magnificent scenery — Monkeys in their
native woods— Village of Paraboli— Alligator as a Ju-ju, or Fetiche
—Alarm of the natives— Stillness of the Niger at night— Insect
music— Natives— Rum preferred to Coffee— Village of Kiambli —
White man said to live at Tchebhy— Rude Ju-ju idol— Ingyama—
Inhabitants terrified by the 'Devil ship'— Lofty trees— New
channel— Ogulbah— Scenery— Otua— Communication with the na
tives — Curious fashions in arranging the hair.
Friday, August 13. — The time had now arrived for
the commencement of the arduous undertaking, to
which our thoughts had been so long directed. H.M.
steam-vessels ' Albert' and 'Soudan' having completed
their preparations, weighed at daylight, and — under the
pilotage of Lieutenant Levinge, who had previously

160 CROSSING THE BAR.
examined it — steamed over the bar in safety, though
with a considerable surf, as the time of high water was
not favourable.

15^. — The 'Wilberforce' having more goods and
furniture to take for the Model Farm, was not ready
till this morning. We weighed at daylight. By crossing
the bar at three-quarters flood, we had it very smooth,
and the last of the tide aided us to the anchorage.
It was a moment of deep and breathless expectation ;
both as being a passage of considerable difficulty ; and
as being the first absolute step in that path, so full
of novelty and exciting interest, but which all knew
must be fraught with danger ; yet their zeal did not
suffer such anticipations to darken their prospect, and
the accomplishment of the entrance of the River Niger
was announced by three cheers from the whole crew.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE ASCENT. 161
Our course over the dangerous bar may be interest
ing to future navigators. From the anchorage, we
steered N.E. till the east point of the river — known by a
large leafless tree, like a gallows — comes midway between
Point Tilana and another point further up the river, and
bearing N. by E. half E., then being in four and a half
fathoms, the channel was open on a N. by E. course.
The least sounding we had was fifteen feet. We
anchored near the 'Albert' three-fourths of a mile
inside Cape Nun, in four and a half fathoms.
On communicating with the senior officer, we were
informed of the death of Bach, the instrument-maker,
who died from effects of fever, not however referrible
to the climate. He was a very useful and obliging
person, and was a great loss, His remains were interred
the following evening on the right bank by lanthorn
light, and, as many of the coloured men were present, it
formed a solemn but interesting scene.
The rudder tails of all the vessels had been lost by
constant friction and corrosion on the passage out, it
was therefore necessary to lay them on the sandy beach
in order to repair these defects.
This was found to be very difficult, in the case of the
' Wilberforce,' owing to a heavy swell which set in, and
rendered two or three attempts abortive. We took
advantage of this opportunity to scrub off the grass and
barnacles which had adhered to the bottom.
The ' Soudan ' having run up the estuary immediately
on entering, to examine Louis Creek, which was believed

VOL. I.

M

162 EXAMINATION OF THE CHANNELS.
to be the only access to the main branch of the Niger,
unfortunately got aground and remained there all night.
A boat, sent also to try the soundings all round
Alburkah Island, found nine feet to be the least
water in Louis Creek, while on the west side of the
island, where the channel appeared to be very wide, in
some places it was only one or two feet. Nothing in
fact, can be more deceiving than the outlets of the
mighty Niger. While broad and imposing branches
are seen in various directions, the only navigable channel
hitherto discovered, is so narrow, that our vessels could
not turn in it. Yet the embouchure which we had
entered would appear to justify the most extravagant
anticipations that could be formed of the river. This is,
however, a mere reservoir, of which nature has pro
vided no less than twenty along a coast of more than
one hundred and fifty miles in extent ; — the Delta, in
fact, formed by the deposit brought down by the floods.
The small rise and fall of the sea in this part — hardly
six feet — appears to require such reservoirs to collect
the prodigious volume of water which is deposited on so
large a surface of Africa — and of which the river is the
drainage — in order to discharge it at several points into
the universal receptacle.
The Rio Nun, from its size, has the appearance of an
estuary, being more than a mile and a half wide and five
miles in length ; the other outlets resemble this. The
water is deep in every part of it. The rise and fall at
spring-tides is 5 ft. 6 in., and at neaps 4 ft. 8 in. The

THE "BORE" OR ROLLING SURF. 163
ebb-tide sets out with a velocity of three miles and three-
quarters or four miles in the middle of the river. At low
water the current was, near the banks, 0*3 of a mile.
At a quarter breadth . . 0"36 „
In the middle . . . 0"6 „
This was at the period of our visit. When the freshes
•come down, it is of course much stronger, but in the
dry season less rapid.
We have reason to believe that the resistance offered
by the strong current of the river to the advance of the
sea-water at flood, is sometimes overcome by the latter
in a tremendous rolling surf, or " bore," as during our
stay we had two opportunities of witnessing this in a
partial degree, about half a mile above where the vessels lay.
At half-flow of the tide, a tumultuous line was dis
cernible near the right bank, extending across one-third
of the river, and slanting somewhat upwards. When
within one hundred yards of the bank, it came on in
the form of an immense breaker, diffusing itself in the
sluggish water of the neighbouring lagoon, to which
direction it was probably diverted by the more powerful
central current. It had a very singular appearance, all
the other parts of the river being as smooth as glass.
One of our whale-boats was almost swamped by it,
although having merely encountered the least violent
division of it.
The water of the river is of a loamy colour and is
sweet to the taste. Mr. Roscher tested it chemically with
the nitrate of silver, and other reagents, in order to
M 2

164 ANALYSIS OF THE WATER.
detect sulphuretted hydrogen, and did not find it to be
in the least discoloured by them. After having been
exposed two days to the atmosphere, it was quite clear,
but then began to smell, of sulphuretted hydrogen,
which he discovered by the above-mentioned agency.
After having been kept a greater length of time the
odour ceased, the taste was good, and there was no
indication of this gas.
The water at low tide was nearly pure, but with a
slightly saline taste, and we only found in it a small
quantity of the muriate of magnesia, combined with
calcareous matter. The sediment obtained from one
pint and a half of the. river-water, weighed forty-one
grains when dry, and was at first blue — like the clay in
the bed of the river — with a film of red colour. On
being disturbed, the whole became reddish; the first
weighed thirty-five grains, the last only six, and con
sisted chiefly of oxide of iron. By a rough analysis it
was found to contain oxide of iron, carbonate of iron,
oxide of manganese, with a large portion of vegetable
matter. We took in water for the ship's consumption along
side and filtered it, after treating it with a solution of
chloride of lime.
The temperature of the fresh-water was lower than
that of the sea : on leaving the anchorage outside the
bar, we found it gradually decrease as we got within the
river ; but we had not sufficient time and opportunity
to be able to determine, by frequent and simultaneous

PHYSICAL CHARACTERS. 165
observations, the relative difference, which was indeed
variable, being of course modified by change of weather
and other circumstances.
The opposite sides of the river appear, according to
Mr. Roscher, to be of different formation. Cape Nun,
the termination of the right bank, has a long spit of
sand running into the sea about one mile and a half.
" This shore is generally swampy, formed by a deposit of
mud, brought down by the river, the outside of which
presents a sandy appearance; and is intersected by
innumerable channels of water, of a brackish and putrid
taste. Where dry spots are found, they are cultivated
by the natives from the other side. The sand con
tinues till the sea meets the fresh-water stream. A
deposit of lamellar mica, and fine vegetable matter,
the last of which is brought down by the river, and
washed out by the sea ; but the quantity is so small,
that it would take centuries to form a stratum of any
importance The bed of the river is covered with a
blue clay, rich in vegetable matter, and coloured by
oxide of iron, similar to the clay observed in the bed of
the sea outside the bar. Whenever the clay was broken
by the rapidity of the current, the pieces were imme
diately carried off by the moving water ; and it often
happened that the spring tides washed them ashore, in
the shape of cylinders. These being left behind by the
retreating ocean, formed one of the peculiar characters
of the right bank of the river.
The clay of the river-deposit is of a ferruginous

166 MANGROVE SWAMPS.
character, with oxide of iron, oxide of manganese,
carbonate of iron, supercarburetted iron, and the pre
cipitation of substances chemically dissolved."
The following shells were found on the shore: —
Donax, Solen, Lima, Conus, and Mactra.
In the swampy parts of the right bank, the mangrove,
Rhyzophora, abounds, with its peculiar fructification.
There are two species of this tree, one growing very low,
and having a white wood ; the other is a rather high
tree, with a fine red wood, which burns well as fuel. The
bark is very astringent. The numerous arching roots
of this tree are favourable for the deposition of sand and
mud. In the woods on this bank, which were visited for the
purpose of procuring specimens, the water was upwards
of two feet deep in most parts, and the air close and
confined. The greater portion of the underwood was
Rhyzophora, or mangrove. The stillness of this soli
tary region was occasionally broken by the Halcyon
Senegalensis, or grey-headed king-hunter, which in its
rich blue and cinereous grey plumage, flitted from tree to
tree, almost the sole occupant of the place. Near the
outskirts, we met one of the most interesting species of
Macrodypterix, the pennant-winged night-jar, with its
long filiform feather attached to each wing.
On returning to the boat, a new and beautiful species
of swallow, the Hirundo nigrita, since figured in
Mitchell's superb work on the genera of birds, was dis
covered performing its rapid evolutions over a placid pool

WADING BIRDS.

167

of water, into which it dipped the ends of its long and
graceful wings, as it picked up the tiny insects for an
evening's repast. Along the beach at low water, many
pretty wading birds were seen, and some captured. The
Sterna melanoptera, or black-winged tern ; the Sterna
Senegalensis, or Senegal tern; the Glareola megapoda
and Cinerea ; the great footed and rufous necked pran-
ticoles, as also the Hiaticula Heywoodii, or Nun River
plover ; while large numbers of a black and white species
of scissor-bill, Rhyncops Orientalis of Riippel, moved
about in a rapid and irregular manner. They did not
seem to be procuring their food from the water, generally
flying some feet above it ; but while on the ground they
were actively engaged searching with their extraordina
rily shaped beaks, both mandibles of which are thin,
compressed and very sharp, the lower one being much the
longest, and fitting into a sort of groove in the upper.
Several times, when the Krumen could be spared,
the seine was used in one of the neighbouring lagoons,
and abundance of fish procured; but most of them
had an earthy taste, probably from the condition of
the water. On one occasion, while so employed, some
of the party were obliged to swim across with the
ends of the hauling lines, not aware of the occupants of
the place, among whom, on concluding the draught,
several saw-fish sharks, Pristis squalus, were captured.
Although these are less dangerous than many of the
family, they can inflict a severe and painful wound with
their many-toothed and elongated snout.

168 A. PAINFUL OBJECT.
While taking a walk along the shore, to the right
of the river, we met several natives, who had been sent
over from Akassa, to observe our movements. They
all, more or less, spoke Spanish, no doubt acquired
from their communication with the Spanish and Portu
guese slave vessels, which formerly frequented this river.
All of them were athletic and well-built, but with apish
and unprepossessing features; the face marked with
perpendicular lines over the cheek-bones. They wore
strings of blue beads round the loins, with a very limited
portion of chequered blue and white cotton cloth, which
required all their ingenuity to cover effectually any part
of the person.
We were not a little shocked on seeing the body of
a female, evidently not long deceased, lying exposed
near high-water mark, where it had probably been left
by the retreating tide. The natives when spoken to
about it, laughed, and seemed to wonder why we could
be interested in such matters ; and gave us to understand
that it was very likely to be one of the people sacrificed
at some place up the river, and brought down by the
current. One, if not more, were passed at other spots
not far distant, which strengthened the supposition, that
some great Fetiche tragedy had lately been enacted. We
could not help thinking that the people up the river,
having received intimation of our arrival, had thus been
propitiating their idols to grant exclusive benefits to
them, or destruction to us.
The left bank of the river consists of sand, inter*

AKASSA. 1 69
mingled with clay of a dirty yellow colour-less inter
sected by channels — in which abundance of fresh and
salt-water shells are found.
This bank was firm, two feet above the high-water
mark, and consequently capable of cultivation. The
plantations were chiefly of plantains. Trees were found
here more than one hundred feet high, while palms of
sixty or eighty feet in height expanded their majestic
leaves. On this bank there is a small irregularly built
village, Akassa, containing about two hundred inhabi
tants. The men are well-made and active, and occupy
themselves in fishing and the culture of small planta
tions of cassada, Indian-corn, and bananas. Tobacco,
and spirituous liquors, of which they are excessively
fond, are procured in exchange for palm-oil from the
traders which occasionally touch here; but when the
slave trade was more actively followed at this branch of
the Niger, they obtained those luxuries from the slavers,
for assisting them in shipping off the human cargoes,
and for keeping watch along the coast for the cruizers.
The huts are quadrangular, small, but clean dwellings,
built of bamboo, and roofed with palm-leaves ; they
are mostly of two compartments, communicating with
each other. The bed-places are flat narrow boards,
raised about eighteen inches on four stones. Fires are
always kept in the huts during the rainy season, and
when unemployed, the family usually congregate round
the smoking embers. The chief of this village is

1 70 NATIVE CUSTOMS.
tributary to another at no great distance from Akassa.
They admitted that human sacrifices do take place at
certain Fetiche rites — the victims are slaves.
The dead are buried in their huts ; if a male,
and possessed of any articles of dress or household
furniture, these are placed for a short time on the
grave. When some of the officers landed, the people ran
away in affright, but soon returned, on finding they
were English, and not Spaniards or Portuguese, which
showed that the former slave-dealing visitants were not
over-scrupulous even with their agents, but occasionally
made free with them to fill up their numbers.
They speak the Brass, or Oru dialect : the men wore
daggers and knives in their girdles. The women were
much tattoed, particularly over the face.
Yaws, an affection of the skin, as also leprosy,
prevailed to a great extent, such as were afflicted with
these diseases were besmeared with red clay. Dr.
McWiHiam vaccinated four persons at this village, and
several others at another large one, and explained
the object to the chief of the place, who was much
pleased that a white man should take so much trouble.
Emmery, the Chief of Akassa, visited the ships ; he
was dressed in a drummer's coat, a plain black hat,
rather the worse for wear, and a loose fold of blue cotton
handkerchief round his lower extremities. He seemed a
quiet, well-disposed man.
While at the mouth of the Nun, a son and a nephew

' KING BOY'S' AMBASSADORS. 171
of ' Boy,' King of Brass Town, arrived on a visit to
Captain Trotter, brmging with them three sheep as a
" dash," or present. ' Boy,' sent as an excuse for not
coming in person to see the Captain, that he was
engaged making Ju-ju, but hoped the vessels would re
main three days, as he was anxious to have a " palaver."
The young princes said, that when the Brass people
heard of the arrival of the English ships, they were all
very much pleased, and danced for joy.
King Boy is a very important personage here. The
sovereignty of both sides of the Nun is in his hands,
and to use the words of his embassy, " King Boy pass
all black man ;" which, after all, was an empty boast,
as he is tributary to Obi Ossai, of Ab6h.
They said, King Boy, and his brother, King Will,
had a good deal of palm-oil at Brass, " and they would
rather sell the oil than slaves." The King of Brass
has eighteen large canoes, with forty men in each, which
he sends to Aboh for palm-oil, yams, fowls, bullocks,
goats, sheep, rice and black beans, in exchange for which,
he gives rum, cowries, cloths, shirts, hats, caps, knives,
looking-glasses, snuff-boxes, hooks and lines, scissors,
muskets, powder and ball, tumblers, wine-glasses, &c.
They would not allow that human sacrifices take
place at Brass, saying that bullocks and goats were
used instead, at their great Ju-ju feasts ; and these, with
a profusion of fowls and yams, are liberally bestowed to
all present on such occasions.
King William's son is called ' Jack Fire.' He is a

172 REV. T. MULLER'S PRAYER.
pilot for Ibu, and showed as a proof of his high
origin, the royal mark, which consists of three deep
scarifications at the external angle of each eye. King
Boy has one hundred and forty wives, and King William
forty-five. Jack Fire said at this season, with the water high
and current strong, he would be nine days going to
Ab6h in one of their large canoes ; but about Christmas,
when the water was low, he could accomplish it in
five days.
The Reverend T. Miiller, the estimable chaplain to
the Expedition, having composed a prayer suitable to
the service on which we were now employed, it was by
order of the senior officer offered up on board the
respective vessels, and being so characteristic of the
pious author, and his earnest desires for its fulfilment,
we gladly subjoin it : —
" O Lord ! our God the Father of all men, and in
Jesus Christ our Father, we, thy unworthy servants,
come before Thee this morning with a new song
in our mouths, with prayer and thanksgiving to
our God. Hitherto Thou hast not only helpen us;
but, as a father pitieth his children, and as a shep
herd feedeth and guideth his flock, so hast Thou
been unto us, a merciful Father, a good Shepherd,
and an ever-present help in the time of need. Thy
goodness and mercy have been new toward us every
morning ; blessed and praised by Thy holy name ! We
feel assured, Almighty Father, that it were in vain to

REV. T. MULLER'S PRAYER. ' 173
hope for success in our present undertaking, without
asking counsel of the Lord, to whom belongeth wisdom
and understanding ; and who, though He is sovereign
in His testimonials, and giveth more than either we
have desired or deserved, will still be inquired of
for these things. As we are now entering upon the
field of our labours, which we trust is a labour of
love and faith, be pleased, we beseech Thee, O Lord ! to
bless and direct both us, Thy servants, and the work
which Thou hast put4n our hands, and afford us Thy
protection !
" Our help is in Thee, O God ! who hast made heaven
and earth. Undertake Thou for us, and bless Thou
the work of our hands. Give success to our endeavours
to introduce civilization and Christianity into this
benighted country. Thou hast promised, ' Ethiopia shall
soon stretch out her hands unto God;' make us, we
pray Thee, instrumental in fulfilling this Thy promise.
" We trust, O God ! that the Expedition in which we
are engaged is the work of Thy own hands, and the
thought of Thy own heart ; we would, therefore, plead
Thy protection and guidance with a peculiar confidence.
Thou hast promised to be with Thy people, even unto
the ends of the world, and to be a refuge to all who
put their trust in Thee.
" Behold, we Thy unworthy servants do put our whole
trust and confidence in Thy mercy. Be pleased, we
beseech Thee, O Lord ! to defend us with Thy Almighty

174 REV. T. MULLER'S PRAYER.
Power as with a shield. Thou hast promised, in Thy
word — ' When thou passest through the waters I will be
with thee ; and through the rivers, they shall not over
flow thee ; when thou walkest through the fire, thou
shalt not be burned, neither shall the flame kindle upon
thee: for I am the Lord thy God, the Holy one of
Israel, thy Saviour.' Be pleased, we beseech Thee, 0
Lord ! to fulfil all Thy gracious promises in us for the
time to come, as Thou hast done hitherto. Continue,
in mercy toward us, to be our hiding-place and covert
from the tempest, and a comfortable shade in a dry and
weary land ; for if Thou art with us, who can be against
us ? Let no evil befal us, nor any plague come nigh
our ships. Preserve our going out and our coming
in, from henceforth and for evermore. And since it is
Thy holy will, that all Thy children should go through
much tribulation into the Kingdom of Heaven, be
pleased, O Lord ! to bless and sanctify all our afflictions
to Thy honour and glory. Give grace, wisdom, and
judgment to thy servant, in whose hands Thou hast
put the chief command and direction of this Expedition,
and to those who are associated with him, and appointed
to negociate conventions with the African Chiefs.
Grant, we beseech Thee, that each and all of us may
be a light and a salt to the people of this benighted
country, that they may see our good works, and praise
Thee our Heavenly Father. O ! Thou that rulest over
all the kingdoms of the Heathen, and turnest the hearts

COMMENCE THE ASCENT. 175
of Kings whithersoever Thou wilt, dispose and turn
Thou the hearts of the Chiefs of this country, that they
may love the things which make for them, temporal and
eternal peace; that the time may be hastened, when
they may, according to Thy promises, beat their swords
into plough-shares, and their spears into pruning hooks,
and nations no longer lift up. the sword against nations,
neither harm men any more ! And Thou, O Lord ! our
God ! who hast promised to hear the petitions of them
who ask in Thy Son's name, we humbly beseech Thee
mercifully to incline Thine ear to us who have now made
our prayers and supplications to Thee, and grant that
those things which we have fdthfully asked according to
Thy will, may effectually be obtained, to the relief of our
necessity, and to the setting forth of Thy glory, through
Jesus Christ our Lord ! Amen."
August 20. — Having completed all our preparations,
we got under way at 6 a.m. followed by the ' Soudan.'
The ' Albert' having commenced the ascent of the river
on the preceding evening.
We had intended to begin our " track survey " imme
diately on starting, but the operations were suspended
by heavy showers of rain, that even gave us some
difficulty in ascertaining the entrance of Louis Creek,
which we consequently approached with too much
caution; and not having sufficient speed to contend
against the unexpected strength and eddies of the ebb
tide, we fell across the channel, which was not much
broader than the length of the vessel, from forty to fifty

176 LOUIS CREEK.
yards, having mangrove trees on either side, with sound
ings from eleven to twenty-three feet.
After vainly striving to get the vessel's head up the
stream, we were obliged to come out of the creek to make
another start " reculer pour mieux sauter." In this
we were successful, and we proceeded up the river
followed by the ' Soudan'.
Having passed through the narrow channel named
Louis Creek,* it expands to a wide sheet of water,
with many islets and several broad and more promising
channels on the right and left, than the one we had
just come through. They are, however, all nearly dry
at low water ; while Louis Creek, with the " young"
flood, had depth enough for our little ' Amelia,' drawing
ten feet.
Nothing at this part was to be seen indicative of
anything like terra-firma. The visible boundaries of the
river in all these branches being an endless confusion of
the arching roots of the mangrove, Rhyzophora, the
only occupant of this swamp. At low water, their roots
are covered by slimy and stinking mud, with decayed
vegetable matter ; to which may, not unreasonably, be
attributed the deadly character of the locality.
* So named after Lander's pilot, who strenuously asserted this to
be the best channel to find the " big water," in opposition to the
advice of his treacherous master, King Boy, who, wished us to take
another branch, in the hope that the vessels might be lost, when he
proposed to enrich himself by the spoil. For his faithful service to
us, poor Louis was afterwards put to death by King Boy.

LEAVE-TAKING. 1 77
This is, indeed, the only bewildering part of the river ;
as, when once entered, there is no difficulty in following
the right channel. The stream will always shew the
course ; since by keeping the vessel's head to the current,
or to the ebb in a tide-way, it must lead to the main
trunk of the river ; so that no channel pursued upwards,
can lead in a wrong direction, and though perhaps it
may not have the deepest water, it will generally be
found to bisect the Delta.
The main branch of the river, which we call the Nun,
lies directly opposite to Louis Creek, and is the one
declared to be the best by that poor fellow. There is a
long shoal stretching nearly across, from the point on
the left bank, making it necessary at first to keep the
opposite shore close on-board.
Having passed this, we arrived at where the 'Albert'
had anchored last night ; and after proceeding a little
farther, Lieutenant Levinge, Commander of H.M.S.
' Buzzard ' — who piloted the ' Albert' over the bar, and
had accompanied the vessels thus far up the river — now
took his departure ; his boat's crew saluting each of the
vessels as they passed upwards with three hearty cheers,
which were responded to with that buoyancy of hopeful
feeling we all entertained.
Lieutenant Levinge had in his charge the letters for
England, all doubtless full of bright prospects never to
be realized ; and, alas ! in too many cases, the last out
pourings of affection kind friends were ever to receive.
The Nun branch, soon after leaving Louis Creek, was
vol. i. N

178 SOLITARY SCENES.
scarcely one hundred and twenty yards wide, but on
advancing, we passed several divergents, and the width
and depth increased proportionably, as well as the strength
of the current, a necessary consequence of the volume of
water being confined to one channel instead of spreading
over and inundating the mangrove swamps.
The banks began gradually to assume the appearance
of firmer land ; at first, without any vestiges of the
operations of man; but soon, some small cultivated
patches were seen ; bearing plantains, a few fishing-
stakes and a small fishing-hut, &c.
A native, in a very tiny canoe, made his appearance
for a moment, and then hid himself in one of the
numerous little creeks which intersect these swamps.
The universal stillness of the scene was very im
posing ; unbroken as it was by any sound, save the
dashing of our own paddle-wheels, and the clear
musical cry of the leadsman, which aided the effect,
falling on the ear in measured cadence. The large and
umbrageous trees, with their festoons of Orchidea and
purple and white Convolvuli hanging from the branches,
formed a combination of forest scenery, so striking,
novel, and interesting, as enabled us to forget that the
much-talked-of Delta of the Niger had been fairly
entered upon. Several monkeys were noticed hopping
about with their wonted agility, which, as far as we
could make out, seemed to be the Mona or Cercopi-
thecus mona : the little gambollers sprung from tree to
tree as if intent on trying rate of speed with us. The

SUNDAY ISLAND. 179
graceful swallow, Hirundo nigrita, was frequently re
cognized in its varied flight, by the black general
plumage, and the little band of white across the tail.
During the day, the water and air were tested with
carbonate of lead, nitrate of silver, muriate of gold, &c,
but no trace of any of the looked-for sulphuretted
hydrogen could be discovered.
The reeds gave place more frequently to patches of
cultivation, in the midst of which were small gra
naries, raised from the ground on poles, to secure the
stored productions of the soil from the overflowing of the
river, as well as other more cunning depredators, as
the proprietor lives in a distant village. At 1 p.m. we
had reached Sunday Island — twenty miles from the
sea. This is also the highest point to which the
sea-tide reaches in the dry season, clearly indicated
by the gradual but rapid disappearance of the man
grove trees, with their sombre foliage and numerous
arching roots, and the Pandanus ; though during
the period of the floods the effect ceases very much
lower down, accounting for the admission of a varied
vegetation among trees which delight in the brackish
water. It is indeed the transition state, and shews the
onward march of the Delta by the reciprocation of
cause and effect in the deposition of soil and vegetation.
The first palm-trees cannot be exceeded in the grace
of their immense arching leaves, springing as it were
from a stool, having but a very short stem. The natives
use the long and tough branches for the same purposes
N 2

180

CHANGE IN VEGETATION.

to which the bamboo is applied, and they extract the
best palm-wine from their base. Ferns, the Ficus,
Mimosa, and various shrubs and bushes of small growth
increased as we advanced above Sunday Island : and the
ranks, which previously were swampy, become somewhat
firm ; and the eye — wearied by the melancholy and
monotonous hue of the mangrove — is delighted to
witness the rapidly increasing vegetation, which soon
assumes all the dignity of the tropical forest.

A few fishing-stakes and some small patches of
plantains give the earliest indications of approach to the
habitations of man. The first villages are composed of
a very few mud huts, of a square or oblong form, with
thatched roofs and gable ends.
During the afternoon, some of the ' Albert's' officers
landed at a little village on the right bank, called
Paraboli, where they met an Ibu pilot, whom they had
seen at the mouth of the Nun. Captain Trotter wished

FIRST DAY CLOSES. 181
Paraboli, where they met an Ibu pilot, whom they had
seen at the mouth of the Nun. Captain Trotter wished
to have engaged his services, but he set such an ex
travagant price on them, that the offer was declined.
At this place, a rude resemblance of an alligator, cut
in wood, was noticed in a Ju-ju house, and, in a small
enclosure attached to the building, a carved figure of a
child. The natives were soon divested of their fears,
though, at first, the female portion especially, evinced
considerable alarm, and ran off into the bush as the
vessels approached ; they had dark circles tattoed over
several parts of the body, mostly on the breast.
At 7 p.m. we anchored in the middle of the stream,
having made a distance of about thirty-three miles from
the embouchure.
The river had here attained a breadth of more than
three hundred and fifty yards, with a depth in the middle
of thirty feet. The shores, sometimes of sand with a
loamy coloured clay, rising two or three feet in firm land
above the level of the water, shewed that the Nun was
here confined within a decided channel. A populous
village was abreast of us on the right bank ; the huts
very rude in construction. The inhabitants at first made
their appearance armed with muskets and cutlasses, and
though they soon laid these aside and shewed signs of
gratification at our visit, they could not be prevailed on
to communicate with us.
Darkness soon enshrouded all objects, and was the
more intense from the close vicinity of the lofty forests
by which we were surrounded. This, our first night in

182 THE RIO BENTO.
the Niger, was peculiarly suited to invite to meditation
those who, while they reflected on the serious difficulties
we should have to encounter, had a firm reliance on the
power and goodness of Him whose fostering care is
traceable in the wildest solitude.
The darkness was indeed perfect ; — save the twinkling
of the stars in the narrow portion of the heavens en
closed by the dark line of wood, and the more fitful
flashes of the fire-fly : — while the solemnity of silence
was scarcely broken, though innumerable insects kept
up their not unpleasing chorus throughout the night.
Most of us had been accustomed to the music which is
poured forth in the tropics after sunset, but those to
whom it was a novelty, were astonished at the volume of
tone in this evening concert of Nature's own harmony.
20^.-3 a.m. Th. 79° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 81° „ „ „ 76°
3 p.m. „ 84° „ „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 80° „ „ „ 75°
August 21, 6 a.m. — A fine morning; weighed, and
soon afterwards entered a divergent on the left bank, to
examine it, by order of Captain Trotter. This is the.
channel which carries off a large part of the waters of
the Niger to the embouchure called the Rio Bento, or
St. John's River, the next to the eastward of the Rio
Nun. We went down a little way till we had opened a
fine reach, about one mile in length and one hundred
and twenty yards wide. The water was deep — fifteen
to twenty feet — close to each bank.
Some canoes came towards us; — the largest had

kiambli. 183
several muskets. The headman, after a great deal of
hesitation, ventured on board and was offered some coffee;
as we had adopted the practice of giving a cup of that fine
tonic at daylight to all hands. He, however, refused it,
never having seen any beverage looking so black and
uninviting, and intimated that a glass of rum would be
better understood. A small present was given him in
lieu of rum, and he went away very much pleased.
We returned to the main stream, and passed a village
on the right bank, called " Kiambli," containing only
nine huts. The inhabitants there told the interpreter
that, two days' passage up the creek opposite to them,
there were two very populous towns, " Ichebby " and
" Nebby," and that a white man lived at one of them,
probably some unfortunate Albino, of which, cases now
and then are met with in Africa. The Ju-ju at this
place was merely two portions of plantain-stem, crossed.
The population was about fifty. The chief sent off two
fowls and some plantains as a " dash."
On coming up with the ' Albert,' Captain Trotter
hailed Commander W. Alien to lead ; — the ' Soudan '
having been sent to examine the Benin branch — erro
neously so named — where they took the opportunity of
ascertaining the longitude.
The Nun branch at this point, had attained a breadth
of eight hundred yards. The so-called Benin branch is
five hundred yards wide, the banks partially cultivated
with sugar-cane, plantains, &c.
Dr. Stanger here obtained some clay, containing Mica,

184 A NEW BRANCH.
and stated at once his conviction that granite would be
found further up, which proved to be the case.
The villages, as we proceeded, became more frequent,
larger and with more cultivation, while the oil-palm was
everywhere seen ; the cocoa-nut tree was only near the
villages, a proof they are not indigenous, according to
Dr. Vogel.
Soon after mid-day, passed a pretty village on the
left bank, called Ingyama, where a few natives were
seen peeping round the corners of their huts, in fright
and astonishment at the " Devil-ship." The scenery was
fine on all sides, everywhere might be seen the magnificent
Bombax, or cotton tree ; here and there a tree covered
with a sort of scarlet flower, while the graceful palm, and
clumps not unlike bamboo, aided the effect.
Captain Trotter made the signal for the ' Wilberforce'
to examine a converging branch on the right bank,
which we pursued in the expectation of its speedily lead
ing us again into the main stream ; but soon its winding
reaches evidently led us far away to the westward. We
had, therefore, discovered a new and important channel,
which — believing himself ordered to explore — Com
mander W. Allen decided on following, in the full convic
tion that, as we were stemming the current, it must lead
us sooner or later, into the main river, according to what
has been previously said at page 177. This branch, called
by the natives O'guborih, trending in a N.W. direction,
was about four hundred yards wide, and twenty-five feet
deep. A heavy squall obliged us to anchor for a short

VILLAGERS ALARMED. 185
time. We named the island, round which we were
navigating, after H.M.S.V. ' Wilberforce.' The scenery
was even more beautiful than that we had left, though
the vegetation was very similar. The trees grow close
to the water, and are covered with parasites, in great
variety, hanging in graceful festoons, some of them
bearing flowers and fruit. The cultivated parts shewed
bananas, sugar-cane, cassada, maize, cocoa-palms, and
yams. In the afternoon, a village was passed on the right bank
— Otua — containing about five hundred inhabitants.
The huts appeared to be made entirely of clay. The
people could be seen moving out of their huts with a
celerity quite unusual for negroes. They were evidently
suspicious of our intentions towards them ; and with the
exception of one " headman," — who came on board with
fear and trembling, yet pretending all the time to be
much at his ease — none of the many vociferous invita
tions repeated by our " Brass" interpreter were attended
to. We noticed a species of Elephantiasis in two
individuals who came the nearest to the ship.
The men in the canoes were fine robust fellows.
They, as well as most of the natives who visited us this
day, had a line or mark down the forehead, reaching to
the bridge of the nose.
The hair-dressers of the village were, apparently,
allowed more latitude for their exuberant taste than in
politer circles. The wool of some was twisted into a
number of small bunches, which certainly did not much

186 FIRM BANKS.
improve their looks. Others had their crowns curiously
cut in a variety of compartments, like a chess-board, or
a French parterre, or made up into numerous httle
tails, ornamented with beads, standing erect as if to
emulate the " fretful porcupine." The natives of this
branch speak the Oru, or Brass language.
The shore on entering the O'guborih branch was at
first very low ; it afterwards became more elevated, but
was not seen higher than about four feet above the
present level of the river. Some marks on the stems of
trees made it appear that the floods are sometimes even
much higher than at the period of our visit.
21st— 3 A.M. Th. 7 8 1° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 82|° „ „ „ 76°
3 p.m. „ 83° „ „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 79° „ „ „ 76°

CHAPTER IX.
Town of Amazuma — Ogulba — " Dash," or present from the natives —
The " smoke-canoe" creates much alarm — Botany — Little Ibu,
or O'korotombi — Stirling Island — Indyama — Brass and Bonny
canoes — Benin branch — Town of Anyah — Orissa and his wives —
Ladies offended — African hair-dressers — Methods of catching
fish — Granby, our interpreter recognizes an old friend —
Native fishing-houses — Fishermen's Ju-jus, or idols — Ipatani—
Utok — Visit of the Chief — Beautiful birds — Arrival at Ab&h —
Prince Ejeh — Odd costume of a person of rank — Obi Ossai,
the Ezzeh or King, visits the ' Wilberforce' — Recognizes a former
acquaintance — The royal dress — Native music — Harsh tones of the
ope and eriki-riki — Obi's favourite wife and daughter — Prince
Ejeh makes an addition to his wardrobe — The princes afraid of a
sand-toy — The • Albert' and ' Soudan' arrive — Honesty of a native
woman — Amusing scenes — The pride of the Bimmenah people
— Refuse to take the cowries because they were thrown on the
ground — The ' Soudan' examines a creek opposite Abdh.
August 22. — Early this morning passed Amazuma —
a large town on the left bank — containing about three
hundred huts, it was most beautifully situated, about
six feet above the water, and looked cheerful and clean.
The natives were very suspicious, and notwithstanding

188 THE SMOKE-CANOE.
our waiting some time, and holding out inducements in
the shape of coloured handkerchiefs, &c, not one would
venture off. They had little enclosures near the banks,
staked off, as if for catching fish. Soon afterwards we
came to another village on the right bank, Ogulba ; here
some of the natives paddled alongside with a few
bananas, plantains, and a wretchedly lean goat; but
nothing could induce them to leave their canoes, being
contented with a distant admiration of all that was shown;
but though probably secretly wishing for possession, we
only obtained a few bananas for some needles.
In every little creek as we proceeded, the plantain
and banana trees were seen growing most luxuriantly — in
some places so thickly, as to prevent the proper develop
ment of the fruit — not having apparently much care
bestowed on their cultivation. At 10 a.m. we passed
another little village on the left bank, with which we had
no communication; the natives merely taking one
glimpse at the " smoke-canoe," or " devil-ship " and
then starting off into the bush.
As we advanced further into this interesting country,
how often did the words of Isaiah present themselves, as
so applicable to these people! " Go ye swift messengers, to
a nation scattered and peeled, to a people terrible from
the beginning hitherto ; a nation meted out and trodden
down ; whose lands the rivers have spoiled"
A little way above the town Ogulba, the branch we
were in, received two others ; or rather, we came to a
bifurcation, where the streams united to form the

DEEP WATER. 189
O'guborih branch. As one went in a north-west and the
other a north-east direction, we hardly knew which to
choose ; on hailing a canoe which still followed us, they
said the north-east channel was the shorter, which we
therefore took, not wishing to continue the separation
from our companions.
But we first examined the north-west branch a little
distance, and found it equally fine as that to the north
east. The depth was from twenty-eight to forty-two feet
nearly all the way across ; at " the meeting of the
waters," the eddies had worked a hole of sixty feet.
The point of separation was extremely beautiful, with
large trees, covered by innumerable parasitical plants.
A boat was sent for some flowers overhanging the
bank. One was probably a new Dalbergia, the other
a creeper, which had been eagerly watched ever since
leaving Sunday Island; it winds up the trees to
the very top, and then drops, thread-like, flowering stalks,
six feet long, covered at the ends with yellow flowers,
frequently hanging down to the ground. It appears to
be a new genus, closely allied to the Mucuna : Dr.
Vogel called this plant, preliminarily, Mucuna Allenii.
Both plants were unfortunately without fruit.
In the afternoon we arrived opposite a very pretty and
apparently clean village, called Ibadi — anglice, " Small
Box." Several canoes came off during our short stay, and
brought abundance of bananas and plantains, which
were disposed of for needles and bottles. The headman

190

THE " SMALL BOX.

also paid us a visit, receiving a " dash" or present of
several small articles, which much gratified him; in
return for these he gave a goat and some fruit. The
bank on which Ibadi is situate, appeared to be raised
artificially. The houses were well-built, of clay, and in
good order. The inhabitants a fine athletic race. We
here, for the first time, noticed the Ibu fashion among
the women of wearing enormous anklets.

At this village a flag was flying, in which a fish and
two birds were figured, and three bars united ; it had
also a black border.
We could not, however, ascertain the meaning of the
symbols. Fish probably forms one of the chief articles of
food, and therefore may well rank as a national emblem.
At all the villages on the banks were seen nets,
immersed fish traps, and various contrivances for cap
turing the finny tribe.

BOTANIZING ON BOARD. 191
We were enticed by the extreme beauty of the flowers
of the Mucuna, overhanging the river, to go close to
a bank, where the water was so deep, that Dr. Vogel
gathered some interesting specimens from the paddle-
box : here we had five fathoms alongside. This was
called Mucuna Point, from the profusion of those flowers
which adorned it.
At 5.40 p.m. we rejoined the main, Nun branch,
which we left on Saturday. Abreast of the junction
were several villages, nearly joined ; the largest of these is
called Sabo-Krugga. The huts were somewhat different
in their arrangement from those lower down, as they
seemed to be built in such a manner as to enclose
a small court. On enquiry, we found that the other
vessels had not passed this place. A note was, there
fore, left with the Chief to apprize Captain Trotter of
our progress.
The river was here perhaps twelve hundred yards
wide, contracting afterwards to seven hundred and eighty,
but still a magnificent stream, the depth averaging thirty
feet, nearly from bank to bank. The current was about
two knots generally, but more in the middle of the
river, and sometimes under the points hardly perceptible;
it was not however always safe to take advantage of this,
as the eddies caused shoals.
A gorgeous sunset shed a rich glow over the sombre
and varied vegetation of the dense forest.
We anchored at 6.35 p.m. a little way above this cluster

192 o'korotombi.
of villages, hoping that the ' Albert' and ' Soudan'
would soon make their appearance.
22nd.— 3 a.m. Th. 80° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 76°
9 a.m. „ 81° „ „ „ 77°
3 p.m. „ 80° „ „ „ 75°
9 p.m. „ 79° „ „ „ 76°
23rd. — At 6.25 p.m. weighed and proceeded. The
river was here divided by an island, having a channel of
three hundred and fifty yards on one side of it, and on the
other, one hundred and fifty. In the narrowest, we had
nearly three fathoms of water. The banks entirely
changed in appearance : — the mixture of sand and clay,
altered to clay with fragments of red quartz, so coloured
by oxide of iron. A prettily-situated village, called
Momoti-miama, was surrounded on all sides by the
most magnificent and umbrageous trees.
At 9.45 p.m. we passed the village called by Lander,
Little Ibu, but properly, O'korotombi; where the
natives having endeavoured to prevent the passage of
the former Expedition, it was destroyed after a little
fighting. Some of the inhabitants came on board,
bringing plantains and fowls. They were evidently
distrustful of our intentions, which might perhaps arise
from the recollection of the unsatisfactory relations they
had with our predecessors. They certainly quitted
the vessel with more gratification than they evinced on
coming on board.
In the middle of the day it rained heavily; but

indiama. 193
under good awnings, it caused little inconvenience, and
tended to cool the air. During our passage hitherto
the air and water have been tested regularly night and
morning, but we could discover none of the much-
talked-of sulphuretted hydrogen. A slight trace of
carbonic acid was detected in the air. We observed
for latitude near a place called on Allen's chart, Ofitulo ;
no trace of habitation was seen ; but as there is good
vegetable soil, mixed with clay and sand, the natives of
some other part come here to cultivate the land with
coco, yams and capsicums. A Sorghum, apparently
indigenous, ten or twelve feet high, was almost impene
trable. The river was here found, by measurement
with the micrometer telescope, to be five hundred and
twenty-seven yards wide, and it was from thirty to forty
feet deep.
4.30. p.m. — Passed the end of the beautifully wooded
Stirling Island. An hour afterwards, we reached Indiama,
a village on the right bank, the largest we had yet seen ;
judging from the number of natives assembled. One
canoe, with a few men, came alongside, having with
them some bananas, yams, and a goat. The fruit
was disposed of very reasonably ; but a musket was
asked for the latter. They were evidently pleased to
see us, although at first a little apprehensive in their
manner. After leaving Indiama, we met some large canoes,
vol. i. o

194

PALM-OIL CANOES.

deeply laden with puncheons of palm-oil, on their way to
Bonny.

The crews numbered from twenty to thirty-four ; in
the bow a small iron gun was lashed, and ready for
immediate use, as also the muskets, of which there
were several. All this precaution was said to be neces
sary, as sometimes an attempt is made by the inhabitants
of some of the villages to plunder them on the route,
by way of exacting toll or port dues.
Most of these canoes belonged to King Boy ; and the
headmen in each wished to visit us. In one was a
slave, who, aware perhaps that with us he would find
liberty, was very anxious to come on board. He could
not, however, prevail on his master to make such a
gratuitous sacrifice. They declared that no steamers had
passed. The forest scenery was here remarkably beau-

orissa's wives. 195
tiful. Opposite this, on the left shore, there is
a sandy beach. We anchored at dusk. The river was
three hundred and sixty yards wide, and thirty feet deep,
with a current of two and a quarter knots.
3 a.m. Th. 78° wet bulb, Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 80° „ „ „ 76°
3 p.m. „ 75° „ „ „ 73°
9 p.m. „ 75° „ „ „ 730|
24th. — A showery morning. Weighed at 5 A.M.,
and proceeded up the river, wondering why we did
not see our companions; but in this unhealthy
part, Commander W. Allen did not think it advisable
to loiter to let them overtake us.
1 1 a.m. — A canoe came alongside, from which Mr.
Wakeham, purser, purchased some yams, fish, &c. The
people appeared to be delighted with the novelty, and
curiosity was strongly written on their countenances.
About twelve, we reached the Benin branch, and
somewhat above it, on the right bank, the town of
Anyah, or " Oniah." The excitement on shore was very
great, and many canoes pushed off, the largest of which,
with twenty " pullaboys," or negro paddlers, contained
Orissa, the chief, and his four favourite wives. The
latter were pleasing in feature, and very prettily tattoed
over the person. They only remained alongside, how
ever, a very short time, retreating into some rather
diminutive canoes, in which they moved towards the
shore, talking very rapidly and vehemently, as if piqued
at the want of gallantry shewn in not inviting them on
o 2

196 A PASSENGER.
board ; and this was the more probable, as they took
with them from the larger canoe, the yams, fruit and
and fowls, which had, perhaps, been brought off as a
" dash" or present, in return for the admiration they
expected to receive.
The men here, as well as most of those we have
seen of the true Ibu race, were stout and well made, of
middling stature. The mark down the forehead is not
general, appearing, as well as the various other tattoed
lines, to depend more on individual caprice, than to be
any national distinction. This applies also to the mode
of arranging the woolly ornaments of their heads ; in
which taste assumed a variety of fantastic forms, as we
had full opportunity of observing in the specimens —
about two hundred and fifty — collected alongside. While
some had them in full expansion, like a large wig, others
went to the opposite extreme of fashion, and exhibited
their closely-shaven crowns, glittering in the mid-day
vertical sun like polished ebony. The major part, however,
showed a happy medium. One of our visitors at Oniah,
a native of Ibu, and a relative of King Obi, begged
for a passage with us. He remembered Commander W.
Allen when on the former Expedition with Lander, and
also Brown, the coloured clerk. He said, that after our
departure, his royal relative was so anxious that the
white men should come back, that he had prayed for
it during three moons. One of the many curious coin
cidences that have occurred, was almost immediately
on the arrival of this man on the quarter-deck ; he and

A RECOGNITION. 197
our interpreter, the " Marquis of Granby," after inquiring
names, and a few moments' scrutiny, fell into each
other's arms; a mutual and simultaneous recognition
having taken place.
It appeared that Ukasa had the care of Granby
when a little slave boy, while his master, Ukasa's brother,
was ill, and had formed a parental regard for him. It
was very pleasing to witness such genuine proofs of
feeling in hearts supposed to be savage. But kind
Nature is a better tutor than civihzation, on occasions of
deep emotion. Granby, having in his youth frequently
attempted to run away, his master, to secure himself
from loss, sold him to the white slave-dealers ; he was
re-captured, and during his service of several years on
board a man-of-war, &c, had sufficient time to see
some of the advantages of civilization, and to appreciate
the exertions which are made by Englishmen in behalf
of his brethren in affliction. He related all these
things to his former friend, on whom they seemed
to produce a very beneficial effect, as he frequently
expressed his gratitude and wish to remain with us.
On the way to Aboh, he readily answered all our ques
tions relating to his country.
Tested the water and air with the various reagents
provided, but could only discover a slight trace of carbonic
acid in the air on exposure to barytic water. We pro
cured some articles from a canoe ; one was a native whip,
the handle neatly worked, and furnished with several
hard dry slips of goatskin.

198 NATIVE DRESS.
The dress of the natives consisted merely of the usual
body-cloth, passed round the loins so as to require the
least quantity of material ; but several were either too
poor or too lazy to use even that scanty covering; so
that an Ibu's toilet — his hair excepted — is not very
elaborate. Here and there, a striped shirt of English
pattern was seen ; as also a few individuals with fantastic
lines drawn with great care in yellow clay over their
otherwise unadorned persons. They send down much of
their palm-oil, trona, ivory, and slaves to the coast, by
way of the Benin branch. The Slave-trade forms one
of their most important sources of wealth, which some
of them admitted without hesitation ; and they asked
if we were inclined to purchase. On being told our
mission was to abolish the traffic they were at first
rather serious, but tried to laugh it off.
The point of divergence of the Benm and Nun
branches appeared to be increasing upwards; for, a
sand-bank near it, was now almost joined, and had be
come covered with grass seen above water, the island
being overflowed. We had great difficulty in getting
through the narrowed channel, having five fathoms on
one side and three feet on the other. In November,
1832, there was not any appearance of vegetation
on the island.
The promontory, from the vessel, looked like an en
tire swamp ; however, on landing, a great deal of dry land
was seen, covered with plants, among which Sorghum,
Cassia, Mimosaides, JEschynomene, and a Malvacea,

THE BENIN BRANCH. 199
were gathered. It is an admirable spot for cultiva
tion containing about twenty-five square miles of land,
almost free from forest; but the climate must be
most pestilential, as, after the floods, a great deal
of stagnant water always remains among the luxu
riant vegetation, which is the case throughout the
Delta : — though on the margin of the river the banks
appear firm, beyond them there are no doubt large
tracts, which if not, properly speaking, morasses, are in
tersected by creeks in all directions, in which the water
is left by the falling river. But of course, this state
obtains more in the neighbourhood of the mangrove
portion of the Delta, where the sluggish water has not
time to be carried off by evaporation in the dry season,
and thus remains a permanent cause of fever.
We went a little way down the fine branch, called by
Lander the Benin, though without any reason than that,
by an endless perplexity of creeks, the town of Benin
may be reached ; or, with more probability, because a
large portion of the water of the Niger is discharged by
it into the Bight of Benin by various mouths, as the
Rio " Warree," or Formoso, the Escardos, Forcados, &c.
We found the channel about six hundred and ninety-
six yards wide, very much broken up by islands ; the
current not so strong as in the Nun branch, about one
knot and a half, and the water not so regularly deep ;
though at one place, where we botanised from the
paddle-box, it had five fathoms close to the bank.

200 FISHING-HOUSES.
The country at the lower part of this braneh is called,
by the Brass people, Senama ; by the Aku, Takiri; and
by those of Ibu, Iwenni. A canoe can reach the salt
water in six days' hard pulling ; but there is no passage
to the higher parts of the Niger except by the main
branch. The principal traffic consists in slaves, palm-
oil, and trona. They do not profess to have much ivory.
The Ibu people do not venture beyond this place, which is
the lowest in Obi's dominion ; and the natives of Oniah
do not go lower down than Senama, to which place the
Benin traders meet them by a creek called Egoa. The
principal occupation of the Brass people is in conveying
palm-oil, as the Slave-trade is " spoiled " for them. It
was not thought prudent to descend this branch more
than five or six miles: it doubtless has a communi
cation with that fine one joining the Oguborih River
at the " meeting of the waters." We returned, and
continued our voyage up the main channel, which is of
magnificent dimensions. The reach being about seven
miles long, a mile and a half wide where the branches
separate, but contracting at the upper end to half a
mile. The fishing-houses which we have seen along the
banks, are rude but curious buildings. The natives
generally select places where there is a little eddy, and
here a look-out hut is built on four high posts. The
net is a large circular one, suspended to a long pole,
supported on two uprights. From time to time,

MODE OF FISHING. 201
small pieces of bruised yam, intestines of animals
or fish, &c, are thrown over the net, and if the fisher
men see the prey moving about, it is slowly lifted
out of the water. They propitiate their gods by
Fetiches emblematical of the employment, small carved
fishes being hung in the huts, or fastened to the lines.
Some few sorts of fish, one of which much resembled
mullet, were brought off, cooked in native fashion,
which is done in the following way : After withdraw
ing the inside, the head and tail are secured together
with a bit of grass, then having been dipped in palm-oil
and hot pepper, they are dried and smoked over a wood
fire, which gives a not unpleasant flavour.
Sometimes the smaller ones are strung on a switch
and prepared in the above way ; palm-oil is certainly
an improvement, the fish being mostly very dry.
It would be impossible to give a description of scenery
which offered each mile we advanced some new and
interesting feature, and a wildness of character which
accorded not inaptly with the human denizens in its
neighbourhood. The smooth surface of the water was
in several places covered with tiny canoes, the possessors
of which could not command sufficient courage to fulfil
their earnest longings to traffic, yet they followed us at a
little distance, paddling very rapidly, as if in mimic race
with the object of their inquisitive fears. The females
were equally expert as the men in using their little
vessels, and some of them even ventured alongside to
receive a few handkerchiefs and needles ; the latter were

202 ABKONO SHOAL.
apparently much prized, why we could not guess, as they
had no clothes on which to use them. Perhaps they
were to be converted into fish-hooks.
Our interpreter, who was not a little proud to be the
mouthpiece for the " white men," issued his oral invita
tions on all sides, and also took advantage in presenting
the " dashes," to say a few complimentary words to his
countrywomen, on whom the " Marquis of Granby's "
gallantry was not entirely lost, as we thought we could
discover a sort of blush mantling their dark features.
AH those we noticed were happy-looking creatures.
We anchored at 6 p.m., and soon afterwards thought
we heard the report of a large gun, supposed to
be from the ' Albert.' Our twelve-pounder was there
fore fired in answer. At Oniah however we afterwards
saw the flashes of several muskets, and it is probable that
the louder report might have been from thence.
3 a.m. Ther. 80° Wet bulb, Mason's Hygr. 77°
9 a.m. „ 79° „ „ „ 76°
3 p.m. „ 81° „ „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 77° „ „ „ 75°
Wednesday, August 25. — Weighed at 5 a.m.
Squally weather, with some rain. We struck on a
shoal called Abkono, lying nearly in the middle of the
reach. It is very much in the way ; the ' Alburkah '
struck on the same spot on the former Expedition. It
is possible that it may be a rock, as it is very " steep to,"
having great depth of water close to it. A village
called Ipatani is on the left bank. The inhabitants are

utok. 203
of the Ethio tribe, who having been driven away from
their former homes by intestine wars, settled here. They
do not seem to have made a good choice of a location,
as it appears swampy ; but the numerous plantations and
granaries bear favourable testimony to their industry.
The grass on the banks here is not Sorghum, but some
other species, which, however, we had not time to ex
amine. A fig-tree grew close to the water-side bearing
very small fruit.
At noon we passed a large village called Utok,
inhabited by a mixture of the Ibu and Egaboh tribes.
They are both celebrated for the cultivation of the yam,
which is found in perfection in these districts. The
chief of Utok came on board decked in a drummer's
jacket, given him by Lander, and bearing in his hand
his staff of office, an iron rod, ornamented with brass
rings and terminating at the top in a sort of crescent.
The trees, with their richly diversified foliage, do
not lose their interest, and at times we could observe
some of the little playful inhabitants, of the Simia, or
monkey tribe, but not near enough to ascertain the
species. Frequently we noticed the Ispida bicincta,
or double-collared king-fisher, with its distinctly marked
black and white plumage, flitting from one small branch
to another near to the water-side, and sometimes its
scarcer, but more gaily attired rival, the Halcyon
cyanotis, or little rufous-necked king-hunter, in its rich
rufous-purple, violet and blue. Late in the evening the
' Wilberforce ' anchored off the principal creek leading

204 PRINCE EJEH.
to Ibu, or Aboh. Tested the water and air carefully
during the day and at night, but could not discover any
appreciable gases so much anticipated at this locality.
3 a.m. Ther. 80° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 77°5
9 a.m. „ 79° „ „ „ 76o •
3 p.m. „ 77°2 „ „ „ 75"
9 p.m. „ 77° „ „ „ 75°
August 26. — As soon as day dawned, Ukasa was sent
to King Obi to announce our arrival, with an invitation
to come and see us. But before he could reach the town,
a large canoe was seen steering down the creek, in
which was a deputation from the King to ascertain if our
purposes were peaceable, and whether any of his friends
of the former Expedition were on board. On coming
alongside there was a mutual recognition between the
Prince Ejeh and Commander William Allen, who re
membered the former when he visited the ' Alburkah.'
He was then a very nice interesting boy, particularly
attentive to Allen, and carried his obsequiousness
so far as even to insist on washing his feet. He
had now become a remarkably fine young man,
nearly six feet in height, well made, and with a
pleasing expression of countenance. His voice was
unusally strong and sonorous. Altogether his appear
ance was very commanding, innately so, for he owed but
little to the " foreign aid of ornament," being dressed
merely in a yellow-striped cotton shirt of European
make, and for a waist-cloth, a blue handkerchief. As to
his princely retinue, little could be expected from them,

obi's VISIT. 205
when the royal wardrobe had furnished so scanty a
display. He remained during the morning prayers, which were
read by Mr. Schon, our respected missionary, and
behaved with great decorum. After having executed
his father's commands and partaken of a breakfast, to
which he did ample justice, he returned to the town
to report favourably of us, judging by the satisfaction
he evinced, especially on the receipt of a few presents.
We were now anxiously looking for the King kimself,
but nearly three hours elapsed before the royal cortege
made its appearance, consisting of a large canoe, in
which was hoisted a white flag, with a rude attempt at
the Union Jack in the corner. The King was embarked
in this, attended by several other canoes of various
sizes ; that belonging to our friend the Prince, carried
an English flag given him by the former visitors.
They came slowly down the creek, as if in doubt whether
to trust the sacred person of the Chief of Ibu within the
power of a canoe so formidable as the ' Wilberforce '
must have appeared ; though Obi was somewhat fami
liarized to the sight by the visit of the steamers under
Lander and Laird. The King's canoe was very large,
hewn in one piece out of the Cotton-tree. It was
broad and capacious at the middle and after-part
especially ; but tapered to a sharp bow. On a flat
piece extending from the stern stood the steersman,
holding vertically a long paddle, and with a bamboo
he occasionally admonished with a tap, not very lightly,

206

DISAGREEABLE MUSIC,

on the head of the " pulla boys" or slaves, about forty
in number, graduated in size from each extreme of the
frail bark; the stoutest men being near the centre, where
stood King Obi, under a large crimson umbrella, accom
panied by Mr. Roscher, the mineralogist, who had gone
with the Prince on his return to his father. His Majesty
was dressed in a curious manner; a scarlet coat, with a
few rude trimmings of bad lace, a pair of wide trowsers
of white cotton, and a black velvet conical-shaped cap,
decorated with a gold tassel ; his sooty uncovered feet
peeping out rather strangely beneath the white, where
the assistance of his almost namesake, Mr. Hoby, would
have been useful. During his approach, and while
alongside, some musicians in the retinue performed the
royal air on the ope, a sort of wind instrument formed

THE ROYAL IBU AIR.

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it.

=i=p=

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=pz£}e

13333

Sf=tt

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by hollowing out a young elephant's tusk : an oblong
hole is bored at the upper third, into which the
performer blows strongly, and by compressing the
fingers over the lower aperture, several notes are pro
duced of anything but a pleasing character ; the tone
resembles more the discordant jar of a clarionet in the

OBI AND HIS WIVES.

207

hands of a novice. On reaching the deck, Obi greeted
Commander W. Allen as an old friend. His features are
pleasing and his countenance expressive of kindness ;
with an air of dignity and self-possession like one used
to command. He cannot, to judge from appearance, be
much under fifty.

Obi brought with him two favourite wives and a
daughter, one of the former probably was not more
than thirteen, and was younger than the daughter. They
were simply attired with a scanty waist-cloth ; but two
dresses of flaming red silk, and another of cotton print,
supplied to the Expedition by their compassionate sisters
of our own blest land, were presented to them, and very
soon put on, but did not appear to add at all to their
comfort, as they stood trembling between fear and joy.
Commander W. Allen explained that he had returned to

208 the 'Albert's' arrival.
his country as a friend, and had brought other ships to
do good to him and all the black people. That the
Commander of the Expedition was on his way, and would
soon be in sight. In the meantime, he would endeavour
to satisfy Obi's curiosity by adverting to some of the
objects of the Mission ; but said he could not enter into
details or conclude anything with him until the arrival
of the other Commissioners. He was much astonished
at being told, that the vessels could find their way,
although they had nobody on board who had been in the
river before. We showed him round the ship, and
he appeared very much pleased, especially when he
fired a detonating tube fixed on the long gun. His
numerous attendants made such a clatter, that we were
obliged to keep them to their canoes, except a few who
were indispensable to his dignity.
In the evening the ' Albert ' made her number, and
on our signalizing that Obi was on board, Captain
Trotter hoisted the royal standard. The 'Soudan'
arrived soon after, having passed on the other side of
the island opposite to Ibu Creek. Thus far, therefore,
we had arrived in safety, and after our little separation
the meeting was gratifying. As it was so near sunset
when the 'Albert ' anchored, the King could not be per
suaded to go on board of her, pleading fatigue, but he
promised to visit Captain Trotter the next morning.
After remaining some time with us, the Ibu sove
reign put off for the shore, much in the same formal
state as when he came, his musicians making " plenty
palaver," with the op^s and eriki-rikis, or wooden

AFRICAN LOYALTY. 209
tom-toms, which they belaboured with little sticks.
Prince Ejeh had also been an anxious visitor ; he had
made an addition to his wardrobe in the shape of an
old hat, and white waistcoat with tarnished uniform
buttons, which, fastened up tightly to the throat, served
to throw out more strongly the waving folds of the
unwashed striped shirt. He had with him an uncle,
brother to Obi, as also one of his sons. They all
became much enamoured of the junior officers' com
partment, where they partook of dinner quite in the
English fashion — using knife and silver fork tolerably
well, having first looked to see how the white men
handled them. On being shown a little toy which
moved by the agency of sand placed inside, their wonder
amounted to fear, starting back at each movement of
the tiny figure ; they could not be prevailed on to touch
it even when clearly explained that it was only a piece
of human ingenuity.

Having seen our sable friends safely on shore, we
must now go back to where the ' Albert' and ' Soudan'
were left, at the entrance of the Agoborih branch,
which the 'Wilberforce' was ordered to examine. It
appears that Captain Trotter did not intend that we
should do more than " look into it," and, therefore, on
anchoring in the evening, expected us soon to rejoin
him ; but as Sunday passed without seeing us, not
having heard our evening gun, and fearing we might
VOL. I. p

210 NATIVE HONESTY.
have got into difficulties, he returned, on Monday
morning, to the entrance of the branch, went up it
several miles, and fired some guns to apprize us of his
position ; but as we were by that time a day and a half
in advance up the river, we were out of hearing. There
fore, receiving no answer, Captain Trotter rightly
concluded that we had pursued that channel to its
junction with, or more properly, to its separation from
the main stream. He re-entered the Nun branch,
and continued his voyage.
In the meantime the ' Soudan,' on Monday evening,
had got up as far as Sabo-Krugga, where Commander
William Allen's note was found, intimating that he
had passed that place on the previous evening. On
returning with this intelligence to Captain Trotter, the
vessel unfortunately grounded, and remained fast until
the ' Albert' came to her assistance.
Tuesday 24. — They were occupied till nearly eight
o'clock, in getting the ' Soudan' off the shoal. They
then proceeded, the 'Albert' towing the tender. A
divergent branch was examined on the left, leading to
Brass Town. It was one hundred and seventy-five yards
wide ; a large canoe, belonging to King Boy, was seen
there, going from Ibu to Brass.
Several villages were passed on either bank. When
abreast of one of them, some handkerchiefs, as a little
present^ were thrown overboard for the natives to pick up,
in order to avoid detention by sending them on shore.
A trait of honesty was here exhibited, not much in

A SCRAMBLE. 211
accordance with the general character of the natives of
this part. On seeing the handkerchiefs in the water, a
canoe pushed off from the village, with a woman
apparently of some consequence, who picking them up,
asked if they had been lost by accident, or intended for
them. She was still further rewarded for her disinte
restedness. At another village, a similar method was taken to save
time, but here an amusing scene took place. Several
canoes were immediately launched off after the handker
chiefs, some men also dashed into the river, and there
was an animated and novel scramble on the water,
between the swimmers and those in the canoes ; the
latter seemed to have the advantage, but lost it by their
eagerness ; for the canoes were capsized, and thus all
had fair play. More prizes were thrown overboard,
enticing more canoes and swimmers ; till the surface of
the river presented a scene of confusion and, one would
apprehend, of some danger, but there was no time to
await the result, which doubtless terminated in the
capture of all the articles, without the loss of any of the
half-amphibious scramblers.
At a village called Binnemah, the current swept the
'Albert' on a bank. The natives at first came out
armed, but soon perceiving her predicament, very quickly
laid their weapons aside, and cheerfully lent assistance to
shove the vessel off. For this service, Captain Trotter
threw them some cowries ; which, however, most unac-
p 2

212

BINNEMAH.

countably, they trod underfoot in the mire. It was
difficult to imagine what could be the motive for this,
though it appeared to be something like pride; they
were possibly indignant at presents being offered in such
a way ! since they were most eager to receive the cowries
when offered by the hand, and there was soon as active
a scramble for them, though not half so diverting, as
had been before witnessed on the water. The village
Binnemah contained about thirty-five huts, and with
several others, belongs to the chief of a district, called
Hippotiamah ; but whether independent, or owing allegi
ance to the more powerful Chiefs, Obi, or Boy, was
not ascertained. After again grounding for a short
time, the 'Albert' anchored for the night, with the
' Soudan' and the ' Amelia' tender.
August 25. — The vessels proceeded at day fight;
found the Nun branch very much wider, being then
above some large divergents. The number of villages
increased, and they were evidently larger and more
populous : at some, the inhabitants appeared very
desirous of visiting the white strangers, and the chiefs
came off with small presents of yams, plantains, fowls,
&c. : at others again, they exhibited every symptom of
alarm, and took refuge in the bush as the steam-boat
passed. At several places, Dr. MWilliam landed and
administered the blessing of the " healing art" to some
suffering natives. Nothing particular occurred till they
arrived in the evening at the anchorage of the ' Wilber-

ARRIVAL OF THE 'SOUDAN.' 213
force,' off Aboh Creek. On Captain Trotter coming in
sight of the latter vessel, he complimented Commander
W. Allen, by telegraph, on his chart of the river made
on the former voyage, by which they had been much
aided in their navigation.
The ' Soudan' on arriving at this point, before
anchoring, explored the channel on the eastern side of a
large island, called Afgab, abreast of Abdh Creek, and
then rejoined the little squadron at this, the first place
where the Commissioners would have the opportunity of
exercising their diplomatic functions.
3 a.m. Ther. 80° wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 7 6° J
9 a.m. „ 79° „ „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 76°i „ „ „ 73°i
9 p.m. „ 76° „ „ „ 74°

CHAPTER X.
Obi Osai's numerous sons— Visit to the * Albert'— Large canoes-
Officers of state— Conference with the Commissioners— Object of
the Expedition explained to Obi Osai— Questions relative to the
slave-trade— Duty or per centage to be allowed the King— Obi
Osai promises to enter into a treaty for abolishing the slave-
trade— Obi, on his return to shore, makes " Fetiche"— Rejoicings
in the town of Aboh— Obi's wives— His "arrisi," or idols— The war-
god— Religious ritual— Title and right of succession to the sove
reignty of Aboh — Royal prerogatives — Headmen, or elders, of the
several towns and villages — Adultery, its punishment — Murder —
The priests or Ju-ju men — Their cunning — Large war-canoes—
Mode of levying people in time of war — King Boy's faithless wife,
a daughter of Obi— Ibu women celebrated for their personal
charms — Mode of fattening wives — Demoralising effects of the
slave-trade — Aboh slaves often sent by Benin branch to sea-coast —
Number of inhabitants — Obi's powers.
Friday, August 27. — Early in the morning, Ali Here,
who, when a boy, had served Mr. Lander as a pilot,
came on board with about a dozen young sons of
King Obi. They seemed to be all very nearly of the
same age, in a perfect state of nudity, and bore un-

11 DESCRIPTION OE THE INSTRUMENTS.

1. Edeeyah flute.
2. Eggarah flute.
3. EriM-riki-

i. Bimbia flutes.
5. Abbh guitar.
6. Abbh flute.

7 & 8. Opes or flutes.
9. Edeeyah rattle.
10. Eggarah sandals.

11. Kru harp.
12. Stool very com
mon in W. Africa.

13. Aboh harp.
14. Bimbia harp.

FRESH-WATER SHELLS.

215

equivocal proofs of having undergone a certain operation
of Jewish origin.
Some of the officers landed on the island of Afgab,
abreast of the anchorage, in order to ascertain by obser
vations its astronomical position. It was found to be
covered with long grass, and reeds twenty feet high,
but so flooded, that it was difficult to clear a space
for setting up the instruments. The soil is sandy, and
produces great quantities of yams, which are chiefly
carried away by the Brass and Bonny traders. The
Benin people cannot come to Ibu, as there is perpetual
war between them and the tribes at Ejoh, which the
traders must pass to reach Ibu. Some beautiful
Epiphytes were seen, and several shells, Achatina,
Bulimus, Helix, were collected. Some yellow weaver-
birds, with black heads, were shot ; also a guana of
considerable size ; but the flooded state of the island
prevented any particular investigation of its natural
history. Obi Osai having sent a message to acquaint Captain
Trotter, Senior Officer and Commissioner, that he would
come off to the ' Albert' to have an interview with him
relative to the subjects which Obi was told constituted
the object of the Expedition, there were early and
noisy indications of the approach of our royal visitor —
opds, eriki-rikis, and a chorus of voices — and very soon
the state-canoe appeared, urged at a rapid rate down the
creek, by forty " pullaboys," of various sizes, nearly all
naked, excepting a few, who had a piece of cloth of the

216 OBI AND SUITE.
smallest possible dimensions, . round their loins. This
apology for clothing, was nevertheless quite enough for
the nature of the climate, as was evident on their
polished-looking skins, from which the perspiration
exuded abundantly. They all appeared to be in good
humour, each perhaps anticipating a " dash," or at any
rate an opportunity of indulging that curiosity so inhe
rent in human nature. Occasionally, their loud chatter
ing was rather too much for the royal ear, and of this
they were reminded by the steersman, who did not hesi
tate to bestow thumps which would have been dangerous
to less obdurate skulls. After paddling round the
' Albert' with great ceremony — the " pullaboys," lifting
their paddles high at every long and measured stroke —
he came on board, and was received on the quarter-deck
by the Commissioners.
Obi Osai was attended by his judge, or " King's-
mouth," Amorama, and several of the magnates of the
land, together with some of his brothers and children.
He was dressed in a serjeant-major's coat, given him
by Lander, and a loose pair of scarlet trowsers pre
sented to him on the same occasion A conical black
velvet cap was stuck on his head in a slanting
manner. He brought a present of two small buffaloes
and two hundred and fifty yams; a very acceptable
accompaniment. On being shown to the after-part of the quarter
deck, where seats were provided for himself and the
Commissioners, he sat down to collect his scattered ideas,

VISIT TO THE ' ALBERT.' 217
which appeared to be somewhat bewildered ; and after a
few complimentary remarks from Captain Trotter and
the other Commissioners, the conference was opened.
Captain Trotter, Senior Commissioner, explained to
Obi Osai, that Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain
had sent him and the three other gentlemen composing
the Commission, to endeavour to enter into treaties with
African Chiefs for the abolition of the trade in human
beings, which Her Majesty and all the British nation
held to be an injustice to their fellow-creatures, and
repugnant to the laws of God ; that the vessels which he
saw were not trading ships, but belonging to our Queen,
and were sent, at great expense, expressly to convey the
Commissioners appointed by Her Majesty, for the
purpose of carrying out Her benevolent intentions, for
the benefit of Africa. Captain Trotter therefore requested
the King to give a patient hearing to what the Com
missioners had to say to him on the subject.
Obi expressed himself through his interpreter, or
" mouth," much gratified at our visit ; that he under
stood what was said, and would pay attention.
The Commissioners then explained that the principal
object in inviting him to a conference was, to point out
the injurious effects to himself and to his people of the
practice of selling their slaves, thus depriving themselves
of their services for ever, for a trifling sum ; whereas, if
these slaves were kept at home, and employed in the
cultivation of the land, in collecting palm-oil, or other

218 THE CONFERENCE.
productions of the country for commerce, they would
prove a permanent source of revenue. Obi replied, that
he was very willing to do away with the slave-trade, if a
better traffic could be substituted. With a view to
elicit information, as well as more fully to explain our
object, a number of queries were put to the King, some
of which are given below, in order to illustrate the
nature of our conference. It will easily be imagined that
there was great difficulty in shaping the questions, every
one of which had to be put in a variety of forms to suit
his capacity, on a subject which we were introducing in
such a new phase to him and to his subjects, who may
be supposed to have been at least as ignorant of the
cruelty of the practice as were our own more enlightened
countrymen within a century from the time of our
propounding to him this new doctrine, which had dawned
so recently, and with so much difficulty among us.
The pertinent remarks of this untutored native Chief
will thus also shew the reader more clearly, how fully he
understood the nature of the treaties we were proposing
for his acceptance.
Commissioners. — Does Obi sell slaves for his own
dominions ?
Obi. — No ; they come from countries far away.
Commissioners. — Does Obi make war to procure
slaves ?
Obi. — When other chiefs quarrel with me and make
war, I take all I can as slaves.

THE CONFERENCE. 219
Commissioners. — What articles of trade are best
suited to your people, or what would you like to be
brought to your country ?
Obi. — Cowries, cloth, muskets, powder, handker
chiefs, coral beads, hats — anything from the white man's
country will please.
Commissioners. — You are the King of this country,
as our Queen is the sovereign of Great Britain ; but
she does not wish to trade with you ; she only desires
that her subjects may trade fairly with yours. Would
they buy salt ?
Obi.— Yes.
Commissioners. — The Queen of England's subjects
would be glad to trade for raw cotton, indigo, ivory,
gums, camwood. Now have your people these things
to offer in return for English trade-goods ?
Obi— Yes.
Commisssioners. — Englishmen will bring everything
to trade but rum or spirits, which are injurious. If
you induce your subjects to cultivate the ground, you
will all become rich ; but if you sell slaves, the land will
not be cultivated, and you will become poorer by the
traffic. If you do all these things which we advise you
for your own benefit, our Queen will grant you, for your
own profit and revenue, one out of every twenty articles
sold by British subjects in the Abdh territory ; so that
the more you persuade your people to exchange native
produce for British goods, the richer you will become.
You will then have a regular profit, enforced by treaty,

220 THE CONFERENCE.
instead of trusting to a "dash" or present, which depends
on the willingness of the traders.
Obi. — I will agree to discontinue the slave-trade, but
I expect the English to bring goods for traffic.
Commissioners. — The Queen's subjects cannot come
here to trade, unless they are certain of a proper supply
of your produce.
Obi. — I have plenty of palm-oil.
Commissioners. — Mr. Schon, a missionary, will ex
plain to you in the Ibu language what the Queen
wishes ; and if you do not understand, it shall be re
peated. Mr. Schon began to read the address drawn up for
the purpose of shewing the different tribes what the
views of the Expedition were ; but Obi soon appeared
to be tired of a palaver which lasted so much longer
than those to which he was accustomed. He manifested
some impatience, and at last said : — " I have made you
a promise to drop this slave-trade, and do not wish to
hear anything more about it."
Commissioners. — Our Queen will be much pleased if
you do, and you will receive the presents which she
sent for you. When people in the white man's country
sign a treaty or agreement, they always abide by it.
The Queen cannot come to speak to you, Obi Osai',
but she sends us to make the treaty for her.
Obi. — I can only engage my word for my own
country. Commissioners. — You cannot sell your slaves if you

THE CONFERENCE. 221
wish, for our Queen has many war-ships at the mouth
of the river, and Spaniards are afraid to come and buy
there. Obi. — I understand.
He seemed to be highly amused on our describing
the difficulties the slave-dealers have to encounter in
the prosecution of the trade ; and on one occasion, he
laughed immoderately when told that our cruizers often
captured slave-ships, with the cargo on board: We
suspected, however, that much of his amusement arose
from his knowing that slaves were shipped off at parts
of the coast Httle thought of by us. The abundance of
Brazilian rum in Ab6h, shewed that they often traded
with nations who have avowedly no other object.
The interpreter, Simon Jonas, was a practical illus
tration of the advantages which the Commissioners
wished the King to assist in procuring for his country.
He was, therefore, told to state how he came to be
with us; he said: — "I was once taken from my
country and parents, and sold as a slave; but an
English man-of-war captured the ship I was sent in,
and, after having been well treated, and taught how to
write and read at Sierra Leone, I am as free as a white
man." Commissioners. — Wicked white men come and buy
slaves ; not to eat them as your people believe, but to
make them work harder than they can bear, by flogging
and ill-using them. The English Queen wishes to
prevent such cruelty.

222 THE CONFERENCE.
Obi. — I believe everything you have said, and I once
more consent to give up the slave-trade.
Some of the presents were now brought in, which
Obi looked at with evident pleasure. His anxiety to
examine them completed his inattention to the remainder
of the palaver.
Commissioners. — These are not all the presents that
will be given to you. We wish to know if you are
willing to stop boats carrying slaves through the
waters of your dominions ?
Obi. — Yes, very willing ; except those I do not see.
Commissioners. — Also to prevent slaves being carried
over your land ?
Obi. — Certainly ; but the English must furnish me
and my people with arms, as my doing so will involve
me in war with my neighbours.
Obi then retired for a short time to consult with his
headmen. Commissioners — (on his return). — Have you power
to make an agreement with the Commissioners in the
name of all your subjects? ,
Obi. — I am the King. What I say is law. Are
there two Kings in England ? There is only one here.
Commissioners. — Understanding you have sovereign
power, can you seize slaves on the river ?
Obi.— Yes.
Commissioners. — You must set them free.
Obi. — Yes, (snapping his fingers several times).
Commissioners. — The boats must be destroyed.

THE CONFERENCE. 223
Obi. — I will break the canoe, but kill no one.
Commissioners. — Suppose a man-of-war takes a
canoe, and it is proved to be a slaver, the officer's word
must be taken by the King. You, Obi, or some one
for you, can be present to see justice done.
Obi. — I understand.
Commissioners. — Any new men coming henceforth
to Abdh are not to be made slaves.
Obi. — Very good.
Commissioners. — If any King, or other person, sends
down slaves, Obi must not buy them.
Obi. — I will not go to market to sell slaves.
Commissioners. — Any white men that are enslaved
are to be made free.
The Commissioners here alluded to the case of the
Landers ; and asked Obi if he did not remember the
circumstance of their being detained some time as slaves.
Obi, turning round to his sons and headmen, appealed
to them, and then denied all knowledge of Lander's
detention. Commissioners. — British people who settle in Abdh
must be treated as friends, in the same way as Obi's
subjects would be if they were in England.
Obi. — What you say to me I will hold fast, and
perform. Commissioners. — People may come here, and follow
their own religion without annoyance ? Our countrymen
will be happy to teach our religion, without which blessing
we should not be so prosperous, as a nation, as we now are.

224 THE CONFERENCE.
Obi. — Yes, let them come ; we shall be glad to hear
them. Commissioners. — British people may trade with your
people ; but whenever it may be in Abdh, one twentieth
part of the goods sold is to be given to the King. Are
you pleased with this ?
Obi. — Yes — "makka." — It is good, (snapping his
fingers) .
Commissioners. — Is there any road from Abdh to
Benin ?
Obi.— Yes.
Commissioners. — They must all be open to the
English. OH.— Yes.
Commissioners. — All the roads in England are open
alike to all foreigners.
Obi. — In this way of trade I am agreeable.
Commissioners. — Will Obi let the English build,
cultivate, buy and sell, without annoyance ?
Obi. — Certainly.
Commissioners. — If your people do wrong to them,
will you punish them ?
Obi. — They shall be judged, and if guilty, punished.
Commissioners. — When the English do wrong, Obi
must send word to an English officer, who will come
and hold a palaver. You must not punish white
people. Obi. — I assent to this. (He now became restless
and impatient.)

THE CONFERENCE. 225
Commissioners. — If your people contract debts with
the English, they must be made to pay them.
Obi. — They shall be punished if they do not.
Commissioners. — The Queen may send an agent ?
Obi. — If any Englishman comes to reside, I will
shew him the best place to build a house, and render
him every assistance.
Commissioners. — Would you like to send one of
your sons to England ?
Obi. — I sent two persons* in the ' Quorra,' but
* Mr. M'Gregor Laird, December 18th, 1841, in reply to an
official communication from the Foreign Office on this subject, states,
"that on the 10th of July, 1833, being then at anchor in the River
Niger, about sixty miles above the town of Eboe, I received on board
four native boys from the late Mr. Richard Lander, (who had borrowed
them from King Obi to assist the crew of the row-boat in which he
was ascending the river), for a passage to Eboe. On my arrival at
Eboe on the 10th of August, two of the boys expressed a great desire
to remain on board ; and on my visiting King Obi, I asked for them.
They were readily given, and accompanied me to Fernando Po ; one
of them I left there, the other I brought to this country, taught him
to read, and kept him for two years or more as my servant. His
health not agreeing with the climate, I paid his passage to Fer
nando Po in the ' Golden Spring,' Captain Irving. As he proved
useful on board that vessel, he was kept, and made one or two
voyages as steward ; he then entered the service of Mr. Oldfield, and
I believe is now with that gentleman at Sierra Leone, and is known
by the name of ' Snowball.' Mr. Oldfield, who resided some years at
Fernando Po, informed me that the other lad was comfortably settled,
I forget under what name." He, however, sent a fine lad with Cap
tain Trotter to learn English. He was a native of Bornil, and had
been sold when a boy by the Nufi traders to the King of Iddah, and
by him to Obi, who again sold him to the Nufi people. He was then
vol. i. a

226 THE CONFERENCE.
never saw them afterwards. How can I let my son
go, if those already sent have never been heard of?
Commissioners. — That shall be inquired into. Obi
must also give every facility for forwarding letters, &c,
down the river, so that the English officer who receives
them may give a receipt, and also a reward for sending
them. Obi. — Very good, (snapping his fingers).
Commissioners. — Have you any opportunity of send
ing to Bonny ?
Obi. — I have some misunderstanding with the people
intermediate between Abdh and Bonny ; but 1 can do
it through the Brass people.
Commissioners. — Will you agree to supply men-of-
war with firewood, provisions, &c. &c, at a fair and
reasonable price.
Obi. — Yes, certainly.
The Commissioners requested Mr. Schon, the re
spected missionary, to state to King Obi, in a concise
manner, the difference between the Christian religion
and heathenism, together with some description of the
settlement at Sierra Leone.
Mr. Schon. — There is but one God.

taken by the Filatahs in one of their predatory excursions, and, by
the chances of war, came once more into the hands of Obi.
This little history of the life of one so young serves to shew the
extraordinary vicissitudes and uncertainty to which the Africans are
liable ; the prospect of which being constantly before their eyes,
must tend very much to loosen all ties of honour or kindred.

THE CONFERENCE. 227
Obi. — I always understood there were two.
Mr. Schon recapitulated the Decalogue and the lead
ing truths of the Christian faith, and then asked Obi
if this was not a good religion, to which he replied, with
a snap of the fingers, " Yes, very good," (makka.)
Commissioners. — Do they sacrifice human beings
in the Ibu country ?
Obi (rather embarrassed). — They do not sacrifice
human beings ; only animals — sheep, goats, fowls, &c.
Commissioners. — When a woman has twins, does
she kill them ?
Obi. — I never heard of it, (hesitatingly).
Commissioners. — Would Obi like to have a Christian
to teach him ?
Obi. — Yes, certainly.
Commissioners. — Will the King make a law that no
human sacrifices shall be made, no murders committed,
and that the treaty be properly observed ?
Obi. — Where I have power, the law shall be put into
execution. Commissioners. — If the Queen makes a treaty with
Obi, will his successors, on his death, abide by the
same ?
Obi. — They will do as I command. I want this
palaver to be settled. I am tired of so much talking,
and wish to go on shore.
Thus the greatest care was taken to make Obi, his
elder sons, and his headmen, clearly comprehend the
nature of the Treaty, and of the obligations we wished him
Q 2

228 SLAVE TRADE OF ABdH.
to enter into. Every article was explained and repeated,
usque ad nauseam, as he appeared to say by the
frequent declarations, " that he understood, and did not
like so much talking." He agreed so readily to every
thing, that various suspicions were entertained ; — first,
that he did not understand our propositions ; next, his
eager compliance was accounted for by his impatience
to receive the presents which had been promised ; lastly,
we thought it not improbable that the slave-dealers
on the coast had advised him to accede to all our
wishes, and afterwards to evade them. However, he
made many pertinent remarks, and there were some
circumstances attending the conference which bore
strong presumption of his sincerity — at least for the
time. He acknowledged that he had carried on the
slave-trade hitherto to a great extent, but that he did
not know it to be wrong ; now, however, having heard
the truth from us, he would no longer continue a prac
tice which he saw was unjust. At the same time, he
said, it had already ceased in a great measure, from the
difficulty he found in selling the slaves, which we
explained by telling him that the Queen's ships kept up
a strict blockade all along the coast, in order to prevent
the approach of slave-vessels. He seemed very much
pleased at this, but said repeatedly, if we wished him to
substitute lawful trade in the produce of the country,
we must send ships to take it away. We, however,
told him that ships could not undertake so long and so
difficult a voyage, unless with the certainty of receiving

THE SLAVE " PALAVER," TERMINATED. 229
articles in exchange for the goods they would bring, and
that the increase of trade would depend upon the exer
tions of himself and of his people.
In agreeing to put an immediate stop to the slave-
trade, and to make a law to that effect, he said that
some of his people were at that time absent, and there
fore could not know the Treaty. That his son, in fact,
was then engaged in purchasing slaves at a town up
the river. He asked if, in such a case, he was to seize
their boats and punish them for carrying on the Slave
Trade, without knowing it was wrong ?
The Commissioners allowed him till the end of the
present moon to make all his subjects acquainted with
the law. This Obi said was sufficient time. He could
not then be prevailed on to give any information as to
the price of the slaves, or the manner in which the
traffic was carried on ; saying impatiently, " The Slave
Palaver is all over now, and I do not wish to hear any
thing more of it."
As Obi laid so much stress on the necessity of our
sending plenty of ships to enable him to substitute
legitimate trade for that which we had explained to be
unjust; it is probable and reasonable he should con
sider his adherence to the Treaty as contingent on our
fulfilment of its stipulations. He will, doubtless, look
on our inability, to be an infraction and a sufficient
release from the performance of his part, and may, there
fore, long ere this, have returned, with renewed energy,
to his former practices, calculating on the deadly nature

230 DECLARATION OF THE TREATY.
of the climate, to prevent our returning to call him to
an account.
Some proof of his sincerity, however, may be argued
from his desire to keep the interpreter, who, of course,
residing at Abdh, would have been cognizant of any
breach of the Treaty. He and his almost naked retinue,
remained on board some little time longer, looking at
everything in the vessel with astonishment. They were
with difficulty made to understand that the pictures in
the cabins were not Ju-jus, or idols for worship, which
they at first believed them to be. None of his suite
went away much poorer for this visit.
Soon after Obi's return to shore, he caused the head
men to make a public declaration of the Treaty into which
he was about to enter ; no doubt it was a very im
portant occasion. Fires were lighted in several parts of
the town, and sacrifices of sheep and goats offered
up to the Fetiches. The tom-toms and other musical
instruments were in play all night. Captain Trotter, the
senior officer, had very judiciously allowed the interpreter,
Simon Jonas, who was a liberated slave from the Ibu
country, to spend the night on shore, and from him we
learned that the proclamation was attended with much
apparent rejoicing. Probably the inhabitants generally
felt greater joy at this than the headmen, to whom a
larger portion of wealth is derived from the slave war
fares and subsequent traffic. It was also rumoured,
but without any good foundation, that Obi publicly
forbade the continuance of human sacrifices, and the

obi osai's wives. 231
other cruel superstitions to which the Commissioners had
drawn his serious attention. This, if true, negatived
all his assertions that such practices did not exist.
Some of the officers accompanied Obi to his palace
after the conference. They went up the creek — till it had
so contracted in width, that there was hardly passage for
the canoes, on account of the overhanging trees — and
then paddled to the extremity of a smaller creek, where
the canoe grounded. The King was carefully mounted
on the shoulders of one of his slaves, and carried to his
house. The same method was proposed to our officers ;
who, however, finding from the difficulty the men had
to get through the mud with their burden, that there
was some chance of being pitched head-foremost into it,
preferred the minor inconvenience of getting up to their
knees by using their own locomotives.
On arriving at the palace, the King invited them to
sit on his throne ; a mud couch, covered with matting.
Obi gave them palm-wine, and began to relate the result
of his visit to the white man's ship ; of all the won
derful things he had seen, and the still stranger things
they had told him ; of its being wrong to buy and sell
slaves, &c. He had a numerous and willing audience in
his wives, who crowded round the door of their chamber,
expressing their astonishment at all they heard by loud
exclamations and various gestures. They were of dif
ferent ages, some being young and good-looking, but
all fat enough. At another door were about twenty of a
more mature age, which the interpreter said were

232 THE " ju-ju" for war.
superannuated. Their simple dress was a piece of
cotton cloth round their waists ; but they were abun
dantly adorned with anklets of ivory, weighing several
pounds ; armlets of the same, or of brass, and some of
leather, with cowries affixed to them. Others had
amulets round their necks — small calabashes fastened
to a leather cord, ornamented with cowries and pieces of
brass. Our officers were, of course, objects of curious
scrutiny, and every remark was accompanied by a loud
laugh; whether complimentary or otherwise, was left
to the imagination of the subjects of it.
In the verandah opposite the throne, were two idols,
which the interpreter called " Ju-ju for war palaver." One
was a rude representation of a human being, carved in
wood, with a conical cap, huge eyes, beads round the neck,
and several other articles, as a small ivory tusk, the handle
of a knife, &c. Prior to going to war, every person
touches this Ju-ju. Those apparently sacred objects were
allowed to be handled and examined without opposition.
Obi retired, after having done the honours of hos
pitality to his visitors, who also went out to look at the
town. Guided by the occasional sound of a tom-tom
and an op£, they looked into a house, where they found
Obi " making Ju-ju," and calling upon his deity for suc
cour and advice, previously to proclaiming to his people
the Treaty he was making with the white men. He had
in his hand a naked sword, with which he touched the
end of a large baton, surrounded with iron rings, which
he reversed after every touch — something like the opera-

EXTENT OF OBl's TERRITORY. 233
tion of magnetizing. At the same time, two of his
attendants performed certain mystical motions in the
air with large fans, made of palm-leaves, in order pro
bably to keep away the Evil One. The intrusion of our
officers, however, having the effect of suspending the
incantation, they withdrew.
We ascertained that the name Ibu belongs to a large
tract of country lying on both sides of the Niger, but
is more extensive to the eastward of it, and containing
possibly many independent tribes, of which Obi rules
over the villages in the immediate neighbourhood of the
river, and it appears that his power does not extend
much beyond the reach of his canoes. The real name
of his chief town, we find, is Abdh, and not Ibu or
Eboe, as Lander called it.
Obi is called the Ezzeh Obi Osa'i. The first being
his title, answering to king or chief; the second his
patronymic, and the last his cognomen. His sovereignty
is acknowledged for about fifty-five miles along both sides
of the river ; Oniah being his lowest village on the right
bank, near the Benin branch ; Owiah Okbe, the highest.
On the left bank, from Ipatanih upwards to Akra-atan,
near the Onecha River, and all the villages included
between these. Notwithstanding all his proud de
claration of absolute power, it is doubtful whether it
can be considered as really more than a preponderating
influence, of variable nature.
He had asserted his authority to be despotic and here
ditary ; but we were informed by our friend, Ukasa, that

234 RIGHT OF SUCCESSION.
the sovereign is elected by a council of sixty elders, or
chiefs of large villages. Preference is indeed generally
given to the King's son, but an adult is chosen, and
great attention is paid to the qualifications of the candi
date. The King has the power of life and death only
by consent of the Council. When the Ezzeh makes
himself obnoxious to the elders, he is not deposed, but
secretly poisoned by them ; and in the choice of a
successor, in such a case, the humility of the candidate
towards them is of great weight. " If the King is
humble towards the elders, they take great care of him."
Although much of this is at total variance with what
Obi affirmed respecting his prerogative, the information
given by Ukasa agreed with that obtained from Simon
Jonas. It is probable, that in the case of the present monarch,
Obi's force of character, his superior judgment, as well
as his mild and equitable administration of justice, may
invest him with the additional influence of public
opinion. All appear to look on him with great reve
rence, and it is expected that his eldest son will probably
succeed him.
His Majesty frequently declared this to be the case,
and that his word would be law even after his death.
He said emphatically, " Are there two Kings to give law
in your country ? here there is but one." He certainly
was corroborated in all this by his headmen, to whom
he appealed, but, in his presence they could not do
otherwise, even if they were disposed to let foreigners

PUNISHMENT OF CRIMES. 235
into the true state of the constitution of the country,
which would have been very much at variance with the
practice of negroes, who are not generally very commu
nicative on such matters.
At Abdh there are ten headmen, or elders, of various
grades, at the other towns and principal villages there is
but one, who is responsible to the Ezzeh and the
Council for the proper regulation of his district. Each
town has also a judge, who decides all matters of dis
pute, pronounces on the nature and amount of punish
ment for crimes and misdemeanours, subject, however,
to the confirmation of the chief. In extreme cases'
the affair is referred to the Council at Abdh.
Among the greatest crimes is adultery with the
King's wives, which is punished with death to both
parties. In one case that was mentioned, the unfor
tunate witnesses were included in the sentence. Among
the headmen and other influential people, a fine of one
or more slaves is exacted for this offence. When
murder is committed, the lex talionis is put in force
with the same means that were used by the mur
derer. Stealing an ox or a goat is punished with
death by hanging. Minor thefts, by flogging or incar
ceration. Some of the most important personages are the
priests, or Ju-ju men. We could not ascertain how they
are elected, or what are the qualifications for the priest
hood. But where the whole religion is but a tissue of
palpable imposture, the principal requisites must- be great
cunning and boldness. In fact, the Ju-ju men are

236 WAR CANOES.
easily distinguished, by their keen insiduous look and
overbearing manner, too plainly indicative of the in
fluence they exert over the blindly superstitious votaries
of Fetichism.Although the Ezzeh has only two large canoes " in
commission," he is said to possess, in all, fifteen of
different " rates," having from twenty to fifty paddlers,
with a small cannon in the bow of each. The first-
rate war-canoes can carry twenty warriors. In the
event of hostilities with any other tribe, or when the King
proposes to make a " great war," he sends to all the
chiefs who are tributary to him, and they furnish armed
canoes according to their means or the size of the villages
under their authority — some four, some only one canoe
each. The ten elders at Abdh have each from two to
six war-canoes. On an extraordinary occasion, it is
said the King can muster about three hundred, many
of them armed with muskets and cannon in the bows,
these last especially, are not however very formidable,
as they are lashed to the bow, rendering the aim
uncertain. A chief is sent from Abdh to command the
expedition. Thus the villages appear to be held as
military fiefs ; but we had no opportunity of noting
further the resemblance to the feudal system.
In times of peace, these canoes are employed in the
less exciting, and at present, less profitable occupation of
trading between the markets* on the upper and lower

* It is probable that the names of the towns where these are held,
signify in their respective languages " market-place." As in Ibu,

NATIVE MARKETS. 237
confines of his kingdom. They go to the Eggarah
market directly after the new moon ; the journey there
and back takes about five days ; after resting a day, they
go to the station below. At the upper one, they
receive the produce of the interior, brought there by the
Eggarah people, the chief town of which was formerly
erroneously called Attah; this produce they exchange
at the lower market with the traders from Brass and
Bonny. This is the general method of intercourse with the
merchants, who never traverse a foreign state to visit a
distant market. The practice, we believe, obtains in
most parts of Central Africa, which may account for the
difficulty and, apparently, unjust detention European
travellers have met with in endeavouring to cross many
kingdoms ; they were in fact transgressing the laws
of nations. A regular exception appears to be in the
Kafilahs, or troops of merchants with slaves, who are
said to make very long journeys. Another apparent
exemption came under our notice, for we saw many
canoes from Brass lying in the Abdh Creek. But we
understood that King Boy, of Brass Town, whose real
name is Amma'i-kunno, pays something like tribute for
this privilege. In order also to secure still further the
the upper and lower market- town is named Oniah, and in the Eggarah
dominions they are called Kiri, or I'Kiri, which Oldfield spells Iccory.
Thus there appears to be a confusion of names, which this supposition
would clear up and account for Lander calling the place where he was
captured, which is common to both the nations, the Kiree market.

238 IBU WOMEN.
favour of the Ibu sovereign, he some years ago married
one of his daughters, Adzeh, whose name, Lander — in
celebrating her beauty — altered to the more euphonious
name Adizetta. She has proved faithless to the " sea-
king" Amai'-kunno, and has recently married her uncle,
a brother of Obi, by whom she has had two children.
The Ibu women are famed for their charms, and in
order to heighten them, when a man takes a wife, his
first care is to immure her in a hut, without suffering her
to take exercise,* until she attains the acme of beauty,
according to the Ibu taste, namely, such an amount of
obesity as very materially to interfere with the faculty of
locomotion. Whether from ignorance or unwillingness we know
not, but certainly the natives were much averse to afford
ing any information relating to the countries adjacent to
Abdh, nor could they say anything of the towns or
villages which one may suppose to be situate a httle
distance from the banks. They admitted that they often
went into the bush to fight, a sufficient proof that there
must be other towns than those immediately on the
river. There is too much reason to believe that Abdh,
like every other part of Western Africa, where the trade
in human flesh is one of importance, is often in a state of
predatory warfare with its neighbours. How sad is the
picture which may be drawn from the wretched state of
insecurity in which a large portion of our fellow-creatures
" This practice obtained also among the ancient Guanches.

TOWN OF ABOH. 239
are thus placed ! Taught from their earliest years to
live on in uncertainty, and knowing not the moment
when their ruthless adversaries may destroy them or
bear them away into captivity, they become indifferent
to improvement, the natural ties of affection are
weakened, and we find each living for the day and for
self. Can we wonder that the benighted and degraded
negro turns so often his thoughts and prayers to his
favourite Fetiche or idol, and in the contemplation of
forthcoming good or averted evil offers the idolatrous
worship of his heart ?
From what we learned, it seems probable that since
the Slave Trade has declined in the Brass and Bonny
Rivers, the greater portion of the slaves, collected by the
Ibu people, are sent down in canoes by the Benin
branch to the sea-coast, thence they are forwarded
through the Lagos creek to Lagos and Whydah, two of
the most notorious haunts of the Brazilian slave-ships,
and whence more unfortunate beings are shipped off
than from any other place on the west coast, as the
more recent enquiries into the odious traffic too surely
prove. Abdh is much the largest town in the Delta of the
Niger, though we consider seven or eight thousand to
be the extreme number of its inhabitants. Obi Osai,
the King of Ibu, is therefore one of the most powerful
and influential rulers on the banks of the river, which is
aided much by the position of his town, Abdh, at the
upper part of the Delta, enabling him to control verv

240 A LARGE HAREM.
much the trade towards the sea ; even King Boy, of
Brass, is in some degree tributary to him. The
amount of Obi's harem adds also to his power ; for by
obtaining the daughters of the principal men in the
different villages, he secures an interest there, and thus
his influence may be said to be in proportion to the
number of his wives, of which he has at present about
one hundred, one of whom is a daughter of the royal
house of Ashanti. Of course, also, his numerous slaves
constitute a great portion of his wealth.

CHAPTER XL
Physical characteristics of the Ibus — Rehgious superstitions — Idols
numerous — Horrible practice on the birth of twins — Large earthen
idol — Tshuku or the Great Spirit — Absurd stories of the priests—
Aboh Creek — Beautiful birds — Native dwellings — Ezzeh Obi
Osai's mud palace— The Harem — Human sacrifices — Insalubrity
of Aboh — Ornithology — Rare animals shot by accident — Plants —
Domestic slavery — Obi Osai's second visit to the * Albert' — Obi
Osai kneels down with the white men to worship their God — His
sudden fear — The "arrisi" or idol called for — The presents — Obi's
anxiety to establish trade with England — Departure from Aboh —
Ogou ladies — Proceed up the river — Body of a female floating in
the stream — Ali Here, the Ibu pilot — Beauty of the country —
, "Osochai" — Aboh trade-canoes — Okoh — Splendid sunset — Fishing-
huts — Appearance of the hills— Anno — Abain-him or the " meeting
of the waters" — Adda-Mugu or Abela — Sufferings of the former
Expedition at this place — Circular huts first met with — The Eddh
examined— Uliain village— King William's Mountain— Anchor off
Iddah. The natives of Abdh are comparatively tall for West
Africans ; well-made and muscular, but the hands and
feet are large. The most prevalent colour of skin is
yeDowish or brownish-black. The features are truly
negro, the nose expanded, lips rather thick, and without
that pleasing outline observed in some negroes. The
forehead is broad and less retreating than in their more
intelligent neighbours the Eggarahs, but the maxillary
bones are more prognathous or protruding, and the
facial angle consequently less favourable.
VOL. I. r

242

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS.

The national mark is triangular, tattoed on each
temple in the males, while the softer sex have various
starlike distinctions on the breast and abdomen. The
women are large, and inclined to " embonpoint," the
effect probably of the fattening process they go through
to arrive at the Ibu standard of female beauty. The
countenance of these people is at once expressive of good
nature and restless inquisitiveness.
The religious superstitions of Abdh are as various and
degrading as at any place we visited, and the Fetiches, or
idols, as numerous ; every hut having one or more, as well
as amulets, or charms, suspended from sticks in the
quadrangular courts. Many of the idols had pots of
water and food placed near them.
The accompanying sketch is taken from a Ju-ju,
presented to Doctor Mc William by one of Obi's sons.

It is carved in hard brown wood, and represents

CRUEL SUPERSTITIONS. 243
the upper half of a human figure, emerging from
a sort of basin ; the arms are stretched by the side,
and between them something like a trumpet. The
features, though characteristic of the negro, are exag
gerated. One of their most horrible and extraordinary super
stitions is that connected with the birth of twins ; an
occurrence looked upon as the greatest affliction that
can happen to an Ibu woman. The little victims are
no sooner born than one or both are taken away, placed
in the neighbouring thicket in earthen pots or baskets,
and left there to become the food of hyenas or other
wild beasts. The unfortunate mother is separated for
ever from her conjugal alliance ; she is obliged to pass
a long period of repentance and purification, in a rude
hut some distance from the town ; and if she outlives
all these trials, mental and physical, and returns once
more to society, she is regarded as an especial object of
Fetiche wrath, and no woman will knowingly sit in her
company, or hold communion with her. No wonder
that it is so much dreaded by all Ibu women ; to whom
it is impossible to offer a greater insult, or one which
rouses their angry feelings more, than to say the word
" Abo-wadakri ;" or by holding up two fingers, signify
that they have had twins.
Another equally absurd, and scarcely less cruel super
stition, is the sacrifice of such children as unfortu
nately cut the teeth first in the upper jaw. They
believe it to indicate a wicked disposition, one hateful
r 2

244 TSHUKU.
to the gods or Fetiches, and therefore a proper subject for
immolation on the altars of their abominable worship.
At a little distance from Obi's dwelling, and rather
to the right, we came unexpectedly on a large earthen
idol, placed in a thicket surrounded by high trees ; this
we believe to be the image to which most of their sacri
fices are offered. Some persons who were near when
we moved towards the direction of this sacred spot,
made earnest signs for us not to approach, exclaiming,
" Tshuku — Tshuku," and just as we had obtained a look
of the figure, one of the Ju-ju men, or priests, came up
in a menacing manner, and would not allow us to remain,
or further to examine the neighbourhood. He appeared
to be very much exasperated, and disposed to punish
our temerity, which probably was only escaped by the
presence of a good double-barrelled " Nock." This
jealous care of the idol, and the exclamation " Tshuku —
Tshuku" would lead to the supposition that it is the
visible representation of a mysterious being or deity,
whom they consult as an oracle under the same name.
His votaries believe him to exist far off in the bush ; that
he has the power of speaking and understanding all
languages ; is cognizant of every thing that takes place
in the world, and that he can punish evil doers. The
priest whilst holding communion with Tshuku, is sur
rounded miraculously with water, and will perish
instantaneously if he attempts to deceive. As all these
absurd stories originate with the Ju-ju men, whose
object is to mislead their too credulous dupes, we may

^

ABdH CREEK. 245
regard it as a better organized delusion, which is got up
at certain seasons, and turned to good account by the
actors. The creek off which the Expedition had anchored is
low and swampy on its left bank, covered with long
grass or reeds, among which the numerous trading-
canoes were moored. The right bank is magnificently
wooded with large forest trees ; and the rich variety of
drooping Orchidaceous parasites, mingled with number
less flowers of brilliant colour, make it very picturesque
and interesting. Some beautiful king-hunters or
halcyons, were moving about in the neighbouring bushes,
as also the pretty rufous-bellied fly-catcher (Muscipeta
rufiventer) and the Vidua erythrorynchus, or red-billed
Whydah birdj in its black and white plumage, the two
very long and narrow tail feathers distinguishing it from
all its little companions.
The capital of Obi's dominions called Abdh, is
situated at the upper, end of this creek, on the right
bank ; numerous little creeklets lead to the dwellings
of the principal men, surrounded by the huts of their
dependents, and here their canoes are laid up. There is
no regularity observed in the position of the huts,
except that they are built on either side of these creek-
lets, and about twenty to thirty yards apart, having a few
palms or banana- trees, which afford the much-required
shelter from the scorching rays of the mid-day sun.
Each family has one 'or more canoes wherewith 'to
communicate with the other parts of the town during

246 NATIVE DWELLINGS.
the rainy season. Some are so very small that it is
surprising how they contrive to make use of them.
They have, in fact, no room for the legs, which are
extended right and left over the gunwale, and serve to
keep the balance.
The people were apparently well pleased to see us,
and everywhere invited us into their little houses,
where palm-wine, or some trifling refreshment in the
way of fruit, was offered. The huts are of a square
form, mostly double, placed at right-angles, neatly built
of mud, and roofed with a compact matting of dried
palm-leaves, and a sort of reed or j uncus, which grows
in the marshes near the river ; the floor is raised a foot
and a half. The entrance is square, and serves for the
three-fold purpose of door, window and chimney, when
they have a fire inside. The thatch or roof overhangs,
and is supported by little pillars, which, as well as the
exterior of the house, is curiously streaked with red
and yellow clay, in some cases tastefully arranged.
Those of the richer persons, as judges, headmen and
Fetiche priests, are larger and have many compartments,
with a quadrangular court, where most of the house
hold and cooking operations are carried on, amid the
usual noise and laughter of African damsels, by whom
they are conducted.*
King Obi Osai's residence is the largest in the town,
* On the roofs of many of these dwellings we saw the fulvous
vultures or griffons, perched in a half-stupified state, probably the

OBI S PALACE.

247

and placed at some distance to the right of the spot
where we landed, on rather higher ground than the
others. It is an irregular building, but within presents
a quadrangle or court, into which each compartment
opens. With so large a harem, composed of upwards
of one hundred wives* of all ages, from twelve to fifty,
it was not to be wondered at that there was here an
unusual amount of loquacity. Many sparkling eyes
were peeping at us from within, where an animated
discussion was heard, and it did not require any know
ledge of the Ibu dialect to assure us that the white men
were subjects of their conversation or amusement.

result of repletion with their disgusting food, the offal and carrion of
the place. These birds are encouraged on account of their useful
ness as scavengers. There is much difference between the young and
old birds.
* The number of wives depends very much on the rank and wealth
of the parties. Dr. McWilllam was enabled to procure the following
statistics on the subject :

Wives.

Children.

Name and Rank.

Age.

Living.

Dead.

Living.

Dead.

Ajeh, King's brother .

40

80

40

uncertain.

uncertain.

Amorama, judge and

King's mouth
40
4
2
2
6
Ozama, headman
35
4
2
2
6
Omeniho, head
32
3
2
3
6
Amehah, headman
28
4
1
3
6
Magoy, bugler .
34
2
1
6
3
Ambili, headman
35
3
2
3
11
Ogron, headman
30
3
1
2
2
Obi Osai, King
44
110
un
certain.
uncertain.
But among the many we questioned, three seemed to be the most
frequent number.
248 THE HAREM.
The older wives came out unreservedly and shook
hands, though laughing immoderately, and looking as if
half ashamed to submit to this European salutation,
which we were not sorry to substitute for the more royal
one of kissing hands — unctuous with palm-oil. AH the
favourite wives had armlets and anklets of ivory, large
and weighty. The principal dame had these ornaments
of such an unwieldy size, that it obliged her to move
the lower extremities in a manner neither easy nor
graceful. All the little toys and trinkets we took with us were
gladly accepted ; but amid so many eager claimants, it
was difficult to divide our small stock satisfactorily;
however, it was managed so that they all seemed pleased,
especially the chief wife, who had a kaleidescope given
to her, the bright and varying colours of which so
much delighted her that she presented in return a
white fowl, which we were told was an uncommon mark
of favour.
The strong and peculiar odour arising from the
congregation of so many dark-skinned " houris" in this
confined place, obliged us to retreat to the outside, where
the atmosphere, if not much cooler, was certainly more
agreeable. Adjoining Obi Osai's house was a rather
high enclosure, between the palings of which were several
pairs of eyes turned towards us with anxiety and
curiosity. On mounting up one of the posts to obtain
a better view, they all rushed, more like wild animals
than human beings, into small dens, the rattling of their

SLAVES IN CHAINS.

249

chains at once pointing out that they were newly-
captured slaves. After we left the spot one of the
King's headmen went into them, and from the screams
which followed, we judged it probable they were receiving
punishment for drawing the attention of the white
strangers to their unhappy condition.
In another part of the town, the officers entered into
a small court-yard, round which were several huts ; in
one of these they saw a boy with a ring round his neck,
to which a chain was attached and fastened to the hut ;
it was sufficiently long to allow him to come outside.
Two headless goats were lying near this hut, which they
were informed Obi had just offered in sacrifice. It is to
be hoped that the poor boy was not reserved for a
similar purpose. There is too much reason to believe,
however, that human sacrifices are here practised in the
most horrible manner : sometimes the poor creatures are
dreadfully mutilated, and left to linger until death ter
minates their sufferings, on which they are thrown into
the river, but it could not be ascertained that the
number was great; they are mostly slaves, or persons
convicted of great offences.
The appearance of Abdh during the rainy season is at
once sufficient to account for its unhealthiness at other
periods of the year. By the testimony of all parties, it
was declared to be very sickly at most times, but
especially on the exposure of the muddy deposits on the
subsidence of the periodical floods. We are less
astonished at the prevalence of fevers, often fatal even

250 ORNITHOLOGY.
to the natives themselves, than that anything human
can exist in such a pestiferous locality, and the fulness
of the creeks warned us that the most deadly season was
rapidly approaching.
In the thickets surrounding Abdh, we saw many rare
and fine specimens of African ornithology. The red-
billed hornbill (Buceros erythrorynchus), with its hoarse
grating call ; the little rufous-necked weavers, with their
pensile and curiously interwoven nests suspended in
great numbers from every palm or cocoa-tree. The
Symplectes chrysomus, or yellow-bodied weaver; the
African golden oriole (Oriolus auratus), in its rich
yellow and black plumage ; the pennant-winged nightjar,
with its long filamentous streamer in each wing;
together with several of those beautiful little creatures
the Cinnyrida, or sun-birds, of these the white-bodied
(or Anthreptes leucosoma), the Cm. chalybea, or red-
collared sun-bird, in its prevailing rich green and gold,
and double collar of blue and crimson, but the most rare
and singular one was the Nectarinia Adelberti Eboensis,
or Eboe sun-bird, since figured in Sir William Jardine's
work on the Nectarinida — two specimens of which
were shot. The general plumage is rich dark brown
approaching to black in some places, a patch of emerald
green — metallic lustre — on the crown of the head,
extending downwards and backwards in two narrow
lines below the chin ; breast a dirty cream colour.
While procuring specimens, a curious circumstance
took place. A large grey-headed Senegal king-hunter,

A FORTUNATE SHOT. 251
perched on a banana-tree, was fired at and killed;
in its fall it was accompanied by a number of small
bats, which happening to be congregated in a fold
of the broad and drooping leaf, were thus accidentally
destroyed. They were of a new and interesting
species, since described by Mr. Gray as the Kerivoula
poensis. The vegetation here offered a more extensive
Flora than that presented at the mouth of the
river, viz : Palma, Bombacea, Mimosa, Rubiacea,
Sapodacea, Cucurbitacea, Graminea, Leguminosa,
as also Sterculia, Ficus, Malvinia, Ceratophyllum,
Sarcocephalus, and abundance of Pistia, floating all
over the water.
The people cultivate rice, Indian corn, cassava, ban-
nanas, oranges, cocos, ground-nuts, yams abundantly
and of good quality, Pappaws, Guinea-peppers, &c,
There is reason to hope the trade in palm-oil, ivory,
&c, has increased very much ; we saw many large
canoes from Bonny, Benin, and Brass, laden with pun
cheons of the former, confirming what we heard on the
coast, that a great portion of the oil procured in the
bights is brought from the interior.
The people live apparently to a good age, for many
were observed to be more than seventy years old. The
number of domestic slaves is very large, in some towns
being almost equal to the free inhabitants : they are
well treated, and many of them become free. Those
at Abdh are liberated when they build proper dwellings,

252 THE king's visit.
but they continue to pay a tax of forty yams each
season, and a small tithe of their goats, fowls, &c. By
thus incorporating them with the free people, many are
induced to " sit down" quietly who would otherwise
try and escape. There was a strong case in point
with Ali Here, who was formerly, in 1832, as on the
present occasion, lent by Obi as pilot. He was a young
Haussa slave belonging to Obi, and was taken to
Fernando Po in the ' Alburkah,' where he might have
obtained his freedom, but he preferred returning to
his master. On a similar offer being now made to him,
he said he was married, and although he knew he was
a slave, he had commenced a little trading on his own
account, was quite satisfied with his lot, and did not
wish to leave his country.
28th. — Agreeably to his promise, Obi Osai went on
board the ' Albert' this morning, where he was received
by Captain Trotter and the Commissioners, with whom
he breakfasted. His dress was not so gay as on his
visit of yesterday, being merely a cotton jacket and
trousers, much in want of a laundress, a red cap on
his head, and some strings of coral, and teeth of wild
beasts round his neck, wrists and ankles. He entered
frankly into the views previously explained to him, and
assented unhesitatingly to all required from him. It
was, however, necessary that the Treaty, which had
been drawn up on the basis of the draft furnished
by Lord John Russell, with the addition of some
articles relating especially to the free navigation of

THE TREATY. 253
the river, should be again read and explained to Obi
and his principal headmen, especially the heir-presumptive,
and the chief Ju-ju man, much to their annoyance ; and
as all this occupied a long while, apparently to very
little purpose, he completely turned against ourselves
the charge we made against the black people — of not
knowing the value of time. In agreeing to the addi
tional article, binding the Chief and his people to the
discontinuance of the horrid custom of sacrificing human
beings, Obi very reasonably inquired what should be
done with those who might deserve death as punishment
for the commission of great crimes.
The important Treaty* having been at length suffi-

* Treaty between the Queen of Great Britain, and Obi Osa'i Chief of
Abbh or (Eboe or Ibu.)
There shall be peace and friendship between the people of Great
Britain and the people of Abdh, and the Slave-trade shall be put
down for ever in the Aboh country, and the people of Great Britain
and the people of Aboh shall trade together innocently, justly, kindly
and usefully ; and Captain Henry Dundas Trotter, Commander Wil
liam Allen, Commander Bird Allen, and William Cook, Esq., Com
missioners on the part of the Queen of Great Britain, and Obi Osai
on his own part, and that of his people as Chief of the Aboh country,
do make the following Agreement for these purposes.
1. — The Slave-trade shall be utterly abolished in the Ab&h
country, and from the signing of this Agreement, no person whatever
shall be removed out of the country for the purpose of being treated
or dealt with as slaves ; nor shall any persons whatever be allowed to
be brought through the country or any part thereof, for the purpose
of being treated or dealt with as slaves by way of exportation or
otherwise; nor shall any persons whatever be imported into the

254

THE TREATY.

ciently explained, was signed by the Commissioners
on the part of Her Majesty, properly witnessed ; and
country for the purpose of being dealt with as slaves, and no subject
of the Aboh country shall be in any way concerned in the exporting
or importing slaves, or carrying on the Slave-trade, either within or
without the limits of the country. The Chief promises to inflict
reasonable punishment on all his subjects who may break this law.
2.— The officers of the Queen of Great Britain may seize every
vessel or boat of Aboh found anywhere carrying on the trade in
slaves, and may also seize every vessel or boat of other nations with
whom a similar agreement has been made, found carrying on the
trade in slaves in the waters belonging to the Chief of Abdh : upon
such seizure, and after regular condemnation, according to the pro
visions of this Agreement, the slaves shall be made free, and the
vessels or boats shall be destroyed.
3. — That in all cases of the seizure of vessels and boats, with the
slaves on board, under the provisions of this Agreement, the said
Commissioners, or those of them who may be present, and in their
absence the commissioned or commanding officer on board the British
vessel making the seizure, or any agent authorized for that purpose,
shall in presence of the Chief or headman appointed by him, make
' due examination and inquiry into the case, and shall condemn the
said vessel or boat with the slaves on board, if satisfied that the
provisions of this Agreement have been thus contravened ; or other
wise acquit and restore the same.
4. — That from and after the signing of this Agreement, no person
whatever coming into the country shall be reduced into slavery, or
treated or used as slaves. All white persons whatever, and all British
subjects, of whatever colour, at present detained in slavery, shall be
immediately set free.
5. — British people may freely come into the Aboh country, and
may stay in it, or pass through it : and they shall be treated as
friends while in it, and they may leave the country with their property
when they please.
6. — Christians, of whatever nation or country, peaceably conducting
themselves in the dominions of the Chief of Aboh, shall be left in

THE TREATY. 255
by Obi, witnessed by his eldest son-Nand two brothers.
Captain Trotter then requested (the Rev. Theodore

the free enjoyment and exercise of the Christian religion, and shall
not be hindered or molested in their endeavours to teach the same to
all persons whatever willing and desirous to be taught ; nor shall
any subject of Aboh, who may embrace the Christian faithjrfee on
that account, or on account of the teaching or exercise thereof,
molested or troubled in any manner whatsoever. \/
7. — British people may always trade freely with the people cf Aboh
in every article which they may wish to sell, and neither therBritish
people nor the people of Aboh shall ever be forced to Ijuy or sell
any article, nor shall they be prevented from buying dr selling any
article with whomsoever they please ; and they shall nof"6e compelled
to employ an agent, and the customs and dues taken by the Chief of
Aboh on British goods sold in the Aboh country shall in no case be
more altogether than one twentieth part of the goods so imported, or
their ascertained value, and there shall be no duty, tolL or custom
levied on goods exported.
8. — The paths shall be kept open through the Aboh country to
other countries, so that British traders may carry goods of all kinds
through the Abdh country to sell them elsewhere ; and the traders of
other countries may bring their goods through the Aboh country to
trade with the British people.
9. — British people may buy and sell, or hire lands and houses in
the Aboh country ; and their houses shall not be entered without
their consent, nor shall their goods be seized, nor their persons
touched ; and if British people are wronged or ill-treated by the
people of Aboh, the Chief of Aboh shall punish those doing such
wrong. 10. — But the British people must not break the laws of the Abdh
country ; and when they are accused of breaking the laws, the Chief
may detain the person charged with committing any grievous crime
in safe custody, taking care that he be treated with humanity ; and
shall send a true account of the matter to the nearest place where
there is a British force ; and the commander of such British force

256 THE TREATY.
Miiller, Chaplain to the Commissioners, to ask a
blessing of Almighty God on this successful commence-

shall send for the British person, who shall be tried according to
British law, and shall be punished, if found guilty, and a report of
such punishment shall be forwarded to the Chief for his satis
faction. 11. — If the Abdh people should take away the property of a
British person, or should not pay their just debts to a British person,
the Chief of Abdh shall do all he can to make the Abdh people
restore the property and pay the debt ; and if British persons should
take away the property of the Abdh people, or shall not pay their
just debts to the Abdh people, they shall be subject to the laws of the
country for the recovery of the same ; provided always that no injury
be done to their persons. The Chief of Abdh shall make known the
fact to the commander of the British force nearest to the Abdh
country, or to the resident agent, if there is one ; and the British
commander or agent, whichever it may be, shall do all he can to
make the British persons restore the property, and pay the debt.
12. — The Queen of Great Britain may appoint an agent to visit
Abdh, or to reside there, in order to watch over the interests of the
British people; and to see that this agreement is fulfilled; and
such agent shall always receive honour and protection in the
Abdh country; and the Abdh Chief shall pay attention to what
the agent says, and the person and property of the agent shall be
sacred. 13.— It is understood that all British vessels or boats are at liberty
to navigate the river Niger, and its branches and tributaries, without
the payment of any duties, tolls, or customs whatsoever. The Chief
of Abdh promises to use his utmost endeavour to facilitate the
conveyance of messengers and despatches to or from British people.
14.— The power of sanctioning or modifying this Treaty is expressly
reserved to Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain.
15.— Any infringement of this Treaty will subject; the Chief of
Abdh to the severe displeasure of the Queen of Great Britain, and
the loss of the duties herein stipulated for.

THE PRESENTS. 257
ment of our labours. The nature of the ceremony
we were about to perform having been explained to
16. The Chief of Abdh shall within forty-eight hours of the date of
this agreement, make a law for carrying the whole of it into effect,
and shall proclaim that law ; and the Chief of Abdh shall put that
law in force from that time for ever.
1*7. The Queen of Great Britain, out of friendship for the Chief of
Abdh, and because the Chief of Abdh has made this Agreement, gives
him the following articles : —
1 ornamented velvet cap.
1 double-barrelled gun, German silver mounted, flint lock.
1 pair of pistols, German silver mounted, flint lock.
1 Gilt mounted sabre.
6 yards of cotton velvet.
1 piece of Maddapolan.
2 pieces of printed Manchester goods.
i piece of caricature handkerchiefs.
5 yards of superfine scarlet cloth.
5 yards of superfine blue cloth.
36 bead necklaces of sorts.
100 flints.
1 case, containing razors, knife, and scissors.
32 small looking-glasses.
1 large lustring umbrella.
1 telescope.
1 sergeant-major's dress complete.
4 red caps.
4 red jackets, baize.
4 shirts.
4 blackjacks.
l£ piece of romal handkerchiefs.
1 pewter basin.
4 brass bracelets (bangles).
1 brass snuff-box.
2 dozen gilt buttons.
6 large pewter spoons.
VOL I. S

258 OBI ALARMED.
Obi, with an intimation that he might remain or
retire, he signified his wish to join us, and imitated our
example in kneeling to the Christian's God — to him
an unknown and inappreciable Being.
In that solemn moment, when the stillness was
unbroken, save by the reverential voice of the clergy
man, and all were devoutly engaged, Obi became
violently agitated. On the conclusion of the ceremony
he started up, and uttering a sudden fearful excla
mation, called aloud for his Ju-ju man to bring his
6 small pewter spoons.
2 brass lamps.
1 padlock.
6 pocket knives.
1 saw.
2 pieces of Pondicherry.
1 piece of Naganapots.
2 pieces of brawls.
1 piece of Madras handkerchiefs.
1 piece of brown shirting.
2 pieces of Bejutepant.
1 piece of cotton Bandanas.
1 piece of Niccarree.
1 piece of Chillo.
6 tin horns.
1 Arabic Bible.
1 oil press.
And the Chief of Abdh hereby acknowledges he has received those
articles. And so we, Captain Henry Dundas Trotter, Commander William
Allen, Commander Bird Allen, William Cook, Esq., and Obi Osai,
Chief of Abdh, have made this Agreement, and have signed it on
board Her Majesty's steam- vessel 'Albert,' off Abdh, this twenty-eighth

THE ARR1SI. 259
protecting " Arrisi," or idol, being evidently under the
impression that we had performed some incantation
day of August, one thousand eight hundred and forty-one ; and this
Agreement shall stand for ever.
(Signed) H. D. Trotter, Commissioner.
William Allen, Commissioner.
Bird Allen, Commissioner.
W. Cook, Commissioner.

> Chief of the Abdl

his
Obi Osai, + ), Chief of the Abdh Country.
mark,

Witnesses, J. O. McWilliam, M.D., Surgeon,
James Frederick Schon, Missionary,
William Bowden, Secretary.
Witnesses, his
Aribunda, +
mark, , . r'King Obi's Brothers,
Ajeh, + I
mark, J
his
Chikuma, + S King Obi's eldest Son.

his "J
^. + ?King>
mark, J

Additional Articles.
The Chief of Abdh declares that no human beings are sacrificed on
account of religious or other ceremonies or customs in the Abdh
country, and hereby stipulates that he will prevent the introduction
of such barbarous and inhuman customs and ceremonies into his
country. And so we, Captain Henry Dundas Trotter, Commander William
s 2

260 A SCENE.
to his prejudice, the adverse tendencies of which, it
would be necessary to counteract by a sacrifice on his
part. He stood trembling with fear and agitation ; the
perspiration streamed down his face and neck, showing
how great was the agony of mind he endured. The
priest had heard the cry of his sovereign, and rushing into
the cabin with the idol — a piece of blackened wood,
Allen, Commander Bird Allen, William Cook, Esquire, and Obi
Osai', Chief of Abdh, have made this Agreement, and have signed it
on board Her Majesty's steam-vessel, ' Albert,' off Abdh, this twenty-
eighth day of August, one thousand eight hundred and forty-one, and
this Agreement shall stand for ever.
(Signed) H. D. Trotter, Commissioner.
William Allen, Commissioner.
Bird Allen, Commissioner.
W. Cook, Commissioner.
his ¦)
Obi Osai, + > Chief of the Abdh Country.
mark. J

J. O. McWilliam, M.D., Surgeon.
James Frederick Schon, Missionary.
William Bowden, Secretary.
Witnesses, his
Aribunda, +
mark. his
Ajeh, +
mark. his
Chikuma + ^King Obi's eldest Son.
mark.

>King Obi's Brothers.

INDISCREET ZEAL. 261
enveloped in cloth — which the King placed between his
feet, was about to offer the customary libation of
palm-wine, &c, when Captain Trotter, also much
disconcerted at the idea of a heathen ceremony being
performed in our presence, and in opposition to the
rites of our holy religion, interrupted him, and called
for Captain Bird Allen, who had just left the cabin*
It was an interval of breathless anxiety, the King
became every moment more alarmed, and desirous
to continue his sacrifice, till it was explained to him
that we had asked the Great God, who was Father of
us all, to bestow his blessing alike on the black people
and on us. This immediately pacified him, he desisted
from the operations, and his good humour as quickly
returned. The remainder of the visit was spent very
much to his gratification, in pouring down his own
throat the palm-wine intended for Ju-ju, — as well as
that of good Spanish growth, which was placed before
him — and afterwards in visiting every part of the vessel.
On another occasion, his prejudices and anger were
nearly excited by an officer, who, with more zeal than
discretion, seeing a native on his knees before the
King, was about to drive him away ; saying, " He could
not suffer kneeling on a Christian quarter-deck to any
but to the King of Kings." The interference was very
fortunately prevented, as " Simon Jonas " said it would
have made Obi " mad " to have been deprived of the
accustomed homage of his subjects.
The principal part of the ceremony, according to the
estimation of our guest, was now commenced ; namely ;

262 obi's firmness.
the long and impatiently-looked-for exhibition and dis
tribution of the promised presents. These consisted of
sundry articles of gay wearing apparel, cloth, woollen
and Manchester cottons, handsome fowling-pieces and
pistols, with many other things, useful and ornamental.
Among those which particularly attracted Obi's
attention were, a handsome gilt sword, some scarlet, and
other fine clothes, a musical snuff-box, and a splendid
cap of the established royal form of Ibu, but of more
costly materials than had hitherto been seen among the
regalia. It was of silk velvet, of conical shape, some
thing like — if one might be allowed to compare great
things with small — what we commonly call a foolscap,
but decorated, from the rim of gold lace, with many
rows of coral beads to the apex, which was surmounted
by a handsome gold tassel.
A press for oil was included among the articles in
tended to be useful : but although great pains were taken
to make all understand its purposes, by placing a wetted
towel under the power of the screw, it is doubtful
whether they will not consider their own manipulations
with the feet to be better than our foreign conceits.
The effects of a galvanic battery excited as much
surprise as terror. Few of the headmen could be pre
vailed on to try the experiment, and those who did
touch the wires, dropped them in great trepidation
after receiving a shock. Obi, however, shewed the
magnanimity of a hero. He firmly grasped the con
ductors, and held them for a minute, although the
muscles of his shoulder were evidently in strong electric

LEAVE ABOH. 263
excitation. He would not shew signs of fear before his
people, in whose minds this proof of courage, no doubt,
greatly exalted him.
On receiving the presents, Obi was much pleased,
but said he would rather have had plenty of goods
to " make trade." He repeatedly expressed to Captain
Trotter his wish and expectation, that many ships
should be sent with merchandise, to exchange for the
productions of his country.
3 a.m. Th. 79° wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 76°
9 a.m. „ 76° „ „ 74°
3 p.m. „ 80° „ „ 75°
9 p.m. „ 75° „ „ 72°
28th. — Our grand object having thus been happily
accomplished, a salute was fired from the vessels, -which
were dressed in flags. We took leave of our royal and
sable friend, and sailed in the afternoon at three o'clock.
The river is here much wider, and the banks shewed
a greater diversity of character, being somewhat undu
lating. The gaily decorated steamers, moving about on
the unruffled water, with here and there a canoe filled
with anxious spectators, had a very pleasing effect.
Indeed, all were in good spirits, and looking forward to
the successful continuance of a mission commenced
under such favourable auspices.
Abdh was soon out of sight. The ' Soudan ' had
been previously dispatched to examine the Bonny
branch ; a divergent on the left bank, from a part of the
river, called in the former chart, Lander's Lake;
which although very wide, does not warrant such an

264

LANDER S LAKE.

appellation; but when the brothers Lander passed
through it in their canoe, there was a dense fog,
which made them suppose the banks to be more
distant than they were. In this part, are two islands,
abreast of one another, in the middle of the lake. The
' Soudan' having taken the channel to the eastward, to
examine the Bonny branch ; the ' Albert ' followed that
by the right bank; and the ' Wilberforce ' passed between
the islands. Above this the river is in one undivided
stream of majestic width, nearly a mile. We continued
till eleven o'clock, as the night was fine, and then
anchored in the middle of the stream.
3 a.m. Th. 78° wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 77° „ „ 74°,5
3 p.m. „ 79° „ „ 75°
9 p.m. „ 77,°5 „ „ 75°
29th. — Being the Sabbath, we remained at anchor all
day ; and the usual divine service was performed. We
had a visit from three native damsels, who came off in a
small canoe from a village on the left bank, called Ogu.
They appeared to be much delighted with all they saw,
and still more so at a small present that each of them
received. Nearly opposite to this was another town,
Okba'i, with which we had no communication.
3 a.m. Th. 78°5 wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 78° „ „ 74°
3 p.m. „ 77° „ „ 74°
9 p.m. „ 75° „ „ 73°
30th. — Weighed at daylight, and took the schooner
in tow. Rainy weather, with a slight tornado.

ASSAMAREH. 265
We passed a swampy island of considerable length,
without any signs of cultivation ; it was apparently
covered with long grass and reeds. The body of a
female was seen floating, which had evidently been some
time in the water. The back looked as if it had been
exposed to fire ; the viscera protruded ; and as it rolled
over with the current, presented a sad spectacle, which
we could not help connecting, in imagination, with some
dreadful sacrifice to the Fetiche.
At a large village, called " Assamareh," on the left
bank, containing about three hundred inhabitants, we
stopped for a short time, to land AH Here, who had
accompanied us thus far as pilot, by order of King
Obi. He carried with him our last letters, to be sent
down the river by the Brass trading-canoes. They,
however, never reached beyond Abdh, where we found
them on our return. Camwood is said to be very
abundant all about this neighbourhood, and much of
that sold at Abdh comes from the forests of Assamareh.
The boat-song of the chief of this village sounded
very sweetly across the water.

w

w

¦^-=1-

In this vicinity we passed a divergent branch on the
left bank, which does not again return to the river ; and,
therefore, belongs to the Delta, which we considered to

266 THE DELTA PASSED.
terminate near this part, about one hundred and fifty
miles from the sea ; as, although we saw many insig
nificant creeks, apparently running off, we met with no
real divergent after this. A large branch, on the
right bank — about eight hundred yards wide, with a
strong current — had all the appearance of being one ;
but on descending a short distance, until it had dimi
nished to about two hundred yards, we found that the
water escaped by various small creeks, and the principal
joins the main river again at Owra Ucha. Another
confirmation of having passed the Delta, was the
appearance of rising land to the north-east about one
hundred feet high. A little higher up, similar eleva
tions were also seen over the right bank. Both had
the appearance of a long line of gentle hills, running
away diagonally from a point about twelve miles above
this, and taking a direction respectively to the south
east and south-west.
The river was here exceedingly beautiful. The shores
richly clothed with verdure, and many noble trees : — the
Bombax, with its enormous trunk and rich festoons of
creepers and Orchidea, being very prominent. The
amount of cultivation in yams, plantains, &c, proved
the country to be populous, although the villages were
but partially seen ; being generally built in a thicket,
which served as protection.
Some officers landed from the ' Albert' at a village
called Osochai'. It was but small, containing only
twenty-seven huts, most of them being quadrangular,

osochaY. 267
with projecting eaves ; here the Governor sat in state, in
front of his hut, the verandah of which was supported
by seven rude pillars. He evidently considered himself
to be very regal on his mud seat, covered with mats.
Before him were several articles of Fetiche, and over his
head, on the thatch, were skulls of oxen, of a monkey
and a leopard. The object of the visit to this grave
personage, was to purchase bullocks ; but his dignity
would not be compromised by yielding to our im
patience, and so he was left.
We fell in with the Ibu traders returning from the
Eggarah market. There were about sixty canoes of all
sizes, each containing, from two or three, to seventy
persons. Obi's son came alongside in one distinguished
by a red flag, edged with yellow. He said he had
made a good market, having purchased a large quantity
of ivory. There were a number of boys and some girls
in the canoe, but whether slaves or no, could not be
determined ; though we hardly doubted it, as the King
had acknowledged that his son was away at the market,
for the purpose of making such purchases.
3 a.m. Th. 78° wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 78° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 83°,5 „ „ 77°
9 p.m. „ 77°,5 „ „ 75°
31st. — Morning cloudy. The river is here very wide,
with many large islands, where several alligators were
seen from the ' Albert.' We kept along the right bank,
in order to be able to define its line more clearly, and we
ascertained there cannot be any diverging branches to the

268 OKdH.
west. We could form no conjecture as to the left bank,
owing to the distance across, as well as the many inter
vening islands. At 7 a.m. it appeared like a large lake.
Soon afterwards, having been tempted by the appearance
of a fine channel away from the right bank, we got on
the wrong side of a sand-bank, and ran into a complete
cul-de-sac, where the river became gradually narrower
and more shallow, till at last we had only four feet under
the bows, and no room to turn. This delayed us con
siderably, and the schooner which we were towing, having
run into the bush, hooked in the trees with her anchor,
and had some difficulty in getting clear. We were
obliged to drop some distance down the stream, and then
go across to the opposite shore, which we ought to have
kept close aboard. Passed Okdh, situated on the
right bank, which is the dwelling of a chief, who is
brother to the King of Abdh. The land rose about four
feet above the water, and consisted of clay, covered with
mould. The huts were a little way back, with extensive
plantations round them. A large island, about two
miles in length, lies opposite a channel, in which we
lost sight of the ' Albert' and ' Soudan.' The river here
is about eighteen hundred yards wide.
Gentle hills were seen over both sides, rising probably
to the height of two hundred and fifty feet. Those to
the eastward, over the left bank, were very beautiful,
clothed with grass, much cultivation, fine clumps of wood
and tall trees, scattered here and there. They have many
towns ; one especially, called Onechah, lies between four
hills, and though claimed by Obi, is said to be always in

ONECHAH. 269
rebellion against him. At Akra-atan, the last village
belonging to that chief on the left bank, and which is
probably inhabited by the same tribe as Onechah, Obi
took sanguinary vengeance some years ago for the
murder of one of his relatives.
These hills decline towards the south-east. A little
rivulet, about seventy yards wide, descending from them,
was passed very close. The water in it appeared to be
stagnant, owing probably to the cessation of supply
from the hills: or, at all events, its current was
overcome by the superior volume of the Niger. The
shores of this little stream were well wooded, and had a
beautiful aspect. The left bank, near its mouth, was
seen in the low season of 1832, and then appeared to
be formed of rock.
In this part of the river, were many Pistia floating
separately, but higher up towards the confluence, we met
them in large quantities.* This plant appears to have
been displaced by rising waters from its tranquil domicile,
as is frequently the case with others ; for we saw several
small floating islands of grass and other plants, clumps
of rolled-up herbage, and stems of large trees lying hori
zontally, with their roots and branches partly emerging
from the water — in the distance, exactly like canoes. The
water is very muddy, of clay colour, the shores low,
covered with brushwood, intermixed with so many
creepers, as to form, sometimes for a great distance, a
vegetable wall. This was particularly remarkable on
* These were seen in vast numbers in the Chadda, when beginning
to rise, in 1833 ; but few were in the Niger above the confluence.

270 ANNO.
the left side of the still water just alluded to ; behind
it rose a few hillocks, with much cultivation (Sorghum
vulgarej, amongst which single trees of a moderate
height, were interspersed.
All the country to the eastward of the Niger at this
part is called Ibo, or Ibu, but is independent of Obi.
Our interpreter, Simon Jonas, was a native of this dis
trict. He said that each town has its own separate chief.
The principal place of worship is called Anno ; and is
much larger than Abdh. The houses are high. The
general trade is in slaves from the interior. The town
is situated on the banks of the River Immo, which,
above, flows through a rocky country ; the water is
clear, and very rapid. Canoes can communicate with the
River Immo at Anno, by means of connecting creeks from
Abdh, by way of n'Doki. This river is probably the old
Calebar, or Cross, explored by Beecroft in 1 84 1 . At the
nearest point on that river, about seventy miles due east
from the Niger at Onechah, there is a town called by that
experienced navigator Acoono-coono ; above which the
river actually passes through a rocky country. The
clearness of its waters would appear to indicate its pas
sage through a lake higher up. Above Anno, Simon
Jonas called it Aba'in-him, " the meeting of the waters."
His account was confirmed by another native of that
country. Abreast of the Onechah River was an island or sand
bank, then overflowed, where the market called Oniah,
or Kiri, before alluded to, is held. Near it, at Assaba, the
natives of Benin come to trade by land. They have no

SUNSET ON THE NIGER. 271
canoes. The Eggarah people bring the produce of the
interior. Those from Abdh bring European goods,
when they have them, or salt. The " Dryland" people
from the hills behind Adda-mugu, or Damoogoo, or
Abela, bring horses.
The sunset this evening was singularly beautiful.
The effulgence of the glowing tints in the sky, reflected
in the broad and unruffled expanse of the Niger, with
the rich and varied foliage on its banks, gradually fading
in the distant hills of Onechah, were such as even Turner
could not have done justice to in his most gorgeous or
extravagant exercise of imagination. The fine weather
and the beauty of the scenery, seemed to have a cheering
effect on the spirits of all hands, especially as we had
passed the dreaded Delta without a single case of fever
on board. Indeed, the voyage hitherto had been one of
uninterrupted enjoyment.
We anchored in the middle of the stream soon after
sunset. Temperature of the air 81°,2; of river-
water 82°,4. The electricity of the atmosphere dis
charging itself all round us.
3 a.m. Th. 78° dew pointMason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 80° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 83° „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 78° „ „ 76°
Wednesday, September 1st. — The air this morning
was delightfully refreshing, being less charged with hu
midity than in the lower parts of the river. On landing
for a short time, an Orchidea, four feet high, was found
rooted in the earth. A great part of the jungle on the

272 WIDTH OF THE RIVER.
right shore consisted of fig-trees, with long branches
covered with fructification shooting out from the red
wood and white bark, visible at a great distance. The
ants were here dreadfully troublesome to the explorers.
A very sweet powerful odour was perceived, like that of
a Tetracera, gathered below Abdh ; though no flowers
could be seen in the vicinity, some were afterwards per
ceived at a distance with the telescope.
The character of the Niger had changed, as well
as the appearance of the banks. Its course was nearly
straight, instead of the numerous, and sometimes rapid
windings of the reaches lower down.
There are many islands, which prevent the possibility
of ascertaining the width of the river, as the true
banks are seldom seen; but in the breaks between
these it sometimes seems to be a mile and a half wide.
The water is deep, especially near the right shore. On
the left bank were many small huts raised on poles,
from which the natives drop their fishing lines into the
water. At this part of the river the sickness fell on the crews
of the vessels of the former Expedition, as it were, at one
blow. In a few days, all, with the exception of Lander
and Allen, were seized with fever, and the whole
attendance on the sick depended on these two ; the latter
not having been taken ill until some were convalescent,
and Lander, having been well-seasoned, escaped.
Hitherto our crews had continued in perfect health;
but they were aware that nine of the victims of 1832
were buried on the right bank, a little higher up.

ABOKKO.

273

We stopped a short time off Adda-mugu, or Abela,
the chief town belonging to our old friend, Abokko,

who was so kind to Lander, on both occasions
when he visited him. The first was when the brothers
landed at his town in their adventurous voyage down
the river in a canoe. They were then in a destitute
condition, and received much disinterested hospitality
from the old chief. On the second, Lander had an
opportunity of rewarding him handsomely. We regretted
to find on inquiry, that this magnificent old man
had been dead some years. His family is however still
in great power. One of his sons, Okien, succeeded
him in the government of the town and territory of
Adda-mugu ; another, Edina, is the Nufia, or " Cap
tain of the Port;" while his brother, Anieh Abokko,
is the Annajah, or Governor of Addakudda, and all the
VOL. I. T

274

ADDA-MUGU.

district in the neighbourhood of the confluence, subject
to the Attah of Iddah.
The huts at Adda-mugu were, for the first time, of
the peculiar form which prevails in the interior, namely,
circular, with high conical, thatched roofs. All below
this town are square or oblong. The principal part of
the town lies at a little distance from the banks, so that
but few could be seen.

This place was formerly thought to be on the left
bank of the river ; but the • Soudan ' having entered a
channel about twelve miles lower down, rejoined the
main trunk above the town; thus proving itsmsukr
position; and the Niger was found to be much wider
here than had been imagined, possibly five or six miles,
where the island is the broadest. , . , ¦
After leaving this, the water close to the right bank is

THE EDOH. 275
very deep. A small stream, called Eddh, is here marked
on Allen's chart as a tributary. It was, however, believed
by Mr. M'Queen to be a diverging branch, communi
cating with the sea in the Bight of Benin. In order to
clear up this doubt, the ' Wilberforce,' having only the
schooner in company, which was in tow, entered the
river, with the view of exploring it a short distance.
The current was found to be setting so strongly into
the main river, that we had difficulty in stemming
it ; and, by indifferent steerage, the vessel was carried
on the bank, remaining some time entangled among the
bushes, from which we brought abundance of ants.
In the meanwhile, the perversity of the eddy forced
the 'Amelia' upon the other side of the point of
confluence of the streams, so that she was obliged to
cast off the tow-rope, and anchor, while we, after
several failures, extricated the ' Wilberforce.'
Having satisfied ourselves that the Eddh is a tribu
tary, and taken the ' Amelia' once more in tow, the
unusual spectacle of two bright lights, like signals,
approaching us, excited much surprise and various
conjectures. The ' Albert,' however, soon made her
appearance, having also gone up the creek, for the
purpose of ascertaining the nature of it, which we
were not aware of, having been separated since yesterday
morning. It was fortunate for both vessels, that
she did not come down ten minutes sooner, as the night
being very dark, we might have come in unpleasant
contact. Captain Trotter was still up the river in
the ' Soudan,' with the intention of exploring it fully.
T 2

276 A LONG REACH.
After passing two small islands and a narrow creek on
the right bank, he came at the distance of five miles to a
bifurcation; one branch trending north-east, the other
north-west. Pursuing the latter, with a depth from five to
six fathoms, ten or eleven miles further, it became muddy
and stagnant, and so narrow, that there was difficulty
in turning the vessel, on account of overhanging
branches of the trees, which they were obliged to
cut away. They then returned to the main river,
having proved, beyond the possibility of a doubt, that
this cannot be a branch of the Niger, falling into
the Bight of Benin. Much cultivation on the banks
and highland was seen to the westward.
We all anchored together in five fathoms, abreast of
this little tributary, in the middle of the river, which
is here about seven hundred yards wide. Some of the
people from Uliam, a village on the left bank, oppo
site the Eddh, came on board, with a " dash" of fruit
and vegetables. They wore neatly made tobes.
1st— 3 A.M. Th. 77° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 78° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 76° „ „ 73°
9 p.m. „ 77° „ » 75°
2nd —Weighed at 5.50. The river appeared an
interminable reach, in a direction due north, with long
islands succeeding one another in the middle; the
current two-and-a-half knots. We saw over the right
bank a fine range of hills, the height of which appeared
to be about five hundred feet.
At noon, in latitude 6° 51' 6"N., the breadth of the

ARRIVAL AT IDDAH. 277
Niger was found by micrometer angle to be one thou
sand three hundred and seventy-seven yards.
At 3 p.m., the ' Wilberforce ' crossed over between two
of the long islands, and took the channel to the eastward,
while the ' Albert ' continued in the western. We found
ours to be a fine branch, four hundred and fifty yards
wide, and thirty feet deep. The intervening island was
so broad, that we could not see the 'Albert.' Both
banks were populous, and well cultivated. Fishing,
however, seemed to be one of the principal occupa
tions of the natives; for facilitating which they grow
about the huts a genus of Leguminosa (the Te-
phrosia toxicariaj. The Krumen said the same
plant is used for this purpose in their country. The
leaves are dried and powdered, and then sprinkled on the
water. The fishes devour it with great avidity, when
they become stupified, and lie motionless on the sur
face ; the fishermen then take them up by hand.
Towards evening we saw, in the distance up the river,
the mountains named King William's range, and, nearer,
a fine dome-like peak, named Mount Purday ; soon
afterwards, the cliffs of Iddah, formerly called Att&h,
made their appearance. At 7 p.m. we anchored between
the landing-place of Iddah and a long low island, which
Lander had purchased from the King, and named English
Island, on which he had intended to establish a factory.
2nd.— 3 a.m. Th. 77° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°,5
9 a.m. „ 78° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 82° „ „ 78°
9 p.m. „ 77° „ „ 74°,5

CHAFFER XII.
Appearance of Iddah by moonlight— Native welcome— Landing-place
—Splendid panoramic view from the cliffs of Iddah— Doctor
McWilliam and Mr. Schon sent to communicate with the Attah—
Native mode of salutation— Edina, a chief— His wives— Etiquette to
be observed by strangers at Iddah— Princess Amada, Bue— The
Attah's pretty daughter, Idjee-Futhul— Amada Bue prepares a break
fast in native fashion for the strangers— The Attah's unwillingness
to appear— His dress— Ministers of State— The message delivered—
Singular reply of the Attah— Rain must never fall on the Attah—
Conference of the Commissioners with the Attah — Natives testify
their joy at seeing white men — Amada Bue's idea of human sacri
fices—Appearance of the Attah and his courtiers— Lobo, the chief
judge — Articles of a treaty agreed on for the suppression of the
Slave Trade and human sacrifices — The Attah's desire for the
establishment of a model farm — Promises to protect white settlers,
and wishes to have " white teachers" — His evident anxiety to
obtain the presents.
By the light of the moon, which threw its rich
though softened rays over the river, and adjacent scenery
with delightful effect, we could discern the irregular out
line of the cliffs on which the town was situated. Fires
were blazing in several places, and we heard the noisy
tom-tom, or wooden drum, commingled with merry
voices, as if to welcome our arrival, which had doubtless

IDDAH CLIFFS. 279
been looked forward to with some anxiety for the last
two days.
Throughout the entire night, the inharmonious wel
come was kept up beneath a huge monkey bread-fruit
tree (Adansonia digitataj, whose wide-spreading
branches were shewn in bold relief, and where we
could imagine some native dance, or superstitious ritual,
was going on.
The 'Albert' and 'Soudan' had arrived a little
before us. During the night, we had a delightfully
refreshing breeze. On the following morning, the red
sandstone cliff* presented a new and agreeable feature,
quite different to anything we had hitherto met with,

* The cliffs of Iddah consist of beds of sandstone, from twelve to
sixteen inches thick, inclining about 3° to the south-east, each bed in
itself stratified. The sandstone is' entirely composed of pieces of
quartz, with a few lamella? of mica and feltspar. The quartz hangs
loosely together in the upper beds, while in the lower, a minute.
portion of clay helps to combine it.
In a few of the strata above the water-mark, I found some fossil
remains ; but, from the nature of the sandstone, in which the impres
sions only were left, as also the friable character of the formation, I
could never obtain them in sufficient perfection to determine them
The pieces of quartz are perfectly white ; proving that not even a
solution of iron could have been present at the time the sediment was
formed, which is the more surprising, as it abounds in the deposit at
the mouth of the river.
On the right bank, where exactly the same formation exists, I saw
in the specimens collected for me, a combination with oxide of iron.
The surface contains a layer of ferruginous sandstone, or iron conglo
merate, about four feet thick, which forms the table-land of the

280

A FINE VIEW.

rising. abruptly from the. margin of. the river to a height
of 185 feet, its summit dotted with conical huts, while
numerous Convolvuli and other ' trailing plants hung in
long festoons .over the precipitous edge.' J
The landing-place is . near the village . of Abokko,
the former, chief of Adda-mugu,. and brother of the
late King; from whence a narrow winding path leads
up the acclivity to the town of Iddah.
On reaching the. summit, a splendid panoramic view.
was obtained; on the right, were the irregularly
scattered houses of the town ; to the left, the smooth
bright surface of the. river .' extending upwards and
downwards in its magnificent breadth, while on the
opposite shore, a diversified and hilly country, clothed
in richest verdure, was gradually lost in the outline of
several distant mountain ranges.
As we had already consumed a large portion of our

country, and which,' with a'small angle of inclination, maybe carried
from the Kong mountains, at the confluence, to the hills of Iddah.
The iron sandstone consists of quartz, with quartzose clay, combined
with a solution of iron. The latter was sometimes found in fragments.
On the southern slope of the hills, the ferruginous sandstone alters
into irori-wacke, the porous red-coloured clay hanging between the
fragments. There is also a similar description of iron-wacke found
on the surface at Sierra Leone. The sandstone has been undermined
and washed away ; the more compact iron sandstone had broken
down from its own weight j and so the valleys around Iddah have
been covered with alluvial matter, consisting of clay and sand loosely
bound together. — Roscher's MSS.
The soil on the hill is inferior to the flat and overflowed banks,
but still capable of producing a good harvest. — Roscher's MSS.

m

THE DEPUTATION. 281
fuel, it became necessary to have recourse to wood ; the
' Wilberforce' and ' Soudan ' were therefore sent over to
the right-bank, where the Krumen were landed for the
purpose of felling such trees as they know are suitable
for the purpose.
Commanders William and Bird Allen, and Mr.
Cook, remained with Captain Trotter on board the
' Albert' at the anchorage off Iddah, in order to open
the negociations with the King for the attainment
of the objects of our mission. As a preliminary step,
and with the view of ascertaining the feelings and
disposition of the Attah, or King of Iddah, towards
the Expedition, Dr. McWilliam, Mr. Schon, Brown, and
an interpreter, were deputed to proceed on shore,
with a present and a friendly message. As they
passed along to the town, the natives frequently
came out of their huts, uttering the usual congratu
lations of the country, " Sinuh, God protect you,"
or " health," while, at the same time, they prostrated
themselves, touching alternately the earth and forehead
with the fore-finger of the right hand. After a short
walk, the deputation reached the residence of Okana,
one of the sons of the late chief, Abokko ; it consisted
of a series of circular huts, very dark and close, with
oval apertures, so small as to render ingress somewhat
difficult. Okana being absent, they went to the hut of
Apigo, favourite son of the late chief. He was
employed in a way very agreeable to these people —

282 THE CHIEF, EDINA.
counting out his cowries, the country money. The
object of the visit was explained, on which they were
accompanied to the house of Edina or Missia, Abokko's
son, and ' Captain of the Port.'
He received them under a verandah or projecting eave
of the circular buildings, the walls of which were rudely
ornamented with red clays. The doors, neatly carved,
represented in slight relievo, short swords, heads, and
various small figures, not unlike Egyptian hieroglyphics.
The verandah was covered with a well-wrought matting
of grass and bamboo. While sitting with Edina, who
appeared very glad to see us, several Mallams or
priests, from Adda Kuddu came to pay their respects
to him. On approaching the verandah, they pros
trated themselves, lifting earth to their foreheads nine
times — they then entered, muttered a prayer for a few
minutes — in which the host joined, and then shook
hands in the native fashion, with the usual expression
of welcome, " Sinuh."
Edina, a Mahomedan, is a tall, fine-looking man,
with rather a good head for a negro. He had on a
red cap, and a long purple tobe, nicely ornamented over
the breast with needlework. The feet uncovered,
according to their custom.
At the door of the hut opposite, several young and
rather good-looking women were staring at the strangers,
with the usual amount of laughter— these were some of
Edina's wives. On Dr. McWilliam asking him how

AMADA BUE. 283
many he had, he replied, " I have now fifteen, but I
expect soon to be enabled to add to my establish
ment." Edina informed them it was part of the etiquette of
the Iddah Court, that the King should be apprised,
through a near relation, of a stranger's intended visit, and
that this duty at present devolved on Amadd Bue, the
Attah's sister, who would on seeing them, send a
messenger to the King, or Attah, and would inspect
the presents about to be offered.
After waiting an hour or more, one of the Attah's
eunuchs came to say the Princess would receive them.
Proceeding by a long narrow path, they reached the
wall separating the northern and southern divisions
of the town — near which was Amadd Bue's house,
which they found no slight difficulty in entering,
having to scramble through a dozen dark huts suc
cessively. After sitting a few minutes under the verandah of the
dwelling, a spare black figure crawled forth on hands
and knees from a narrow and obscure recess ; this was
no less a person than Princess Amadd Bue, the Attah's
sister. She was apparently about forty years of age.
The head was closely shaven, and the jet visage,
was rendered the more so, by some application to the
nose and cheeks; which, with a black cloth thrown
loosely round her middle, indicated that she was
observing the ceremonial of mourning for some near
relative. She was accompanied by Idjee-Futhul,

284 CIVILITY OF THE PRINCESS.
daughter of the Attah, a very pretty girl of seventeen
or eighteen, whose only garment was a blue cotton
cloth folded negligently round the loins. Her arms
were each encumbered with fifteen brass rings, so
weighty, that she was obliged to rest them on 'the
shoulders of her attendants; the toes were also deco-
rated with metallic rings. The perforated ears had each
a blue cylindrical bead; the hair combed into a
ridge traversing the back of the head. Amadd Bue
received her guests kindly, smiled, held out her hands
and saluted them with the usual congratulation, " Sinuh,"
or " God protect you." It appeared she was at present
in retirement, sorrowing according to native fashion for her
husband, who had died some time previously. Having
sent a message to the Attah, who would announce when
he was ready to receive the strangers, she examined in
the meantime the small presents for her brother, and
one for herself, with which she was much gratified.
Tired of waiting for the royal answer, the officers walked
round the town, and returned in an hour ; but still no
summons, which rather annoyed them, as they were
fatigued, and had unfortunately landed before breakfast.
The courteous widow, however, begged them to remain
a short time longer, when she came back with two slaves,
each bearing a wooden dish, which was placed before the
visitors. Another attendant brought in a brass basin
containing water, into which she dipped her fingers
gracefully, then stooped and uncovered the dishes, taking
out a little from each, which she ate, to show it was

THE KING'S FEAR OF RAIN. 285
good and wholesome, then desiring them to be refreshed,
she retired.
The repast consisted of stewed meat and duck, with
Foo-Foo, or yam pounded, with palm-oil poured over it,
which were both very palatable after so long a fast.
About half-past twelve, the King's eunuch came to say
his Majesty would now give audience, and they soon
reached the palace — a number of quadrangular and
circular huts, some of them rather dilapidated, enclosed
by a wall — here they were ushered into a circular one,
used as a sort of waiting-room, where their patience
was further tried. Some mats and two pieces of Kidder
minster carpet were placed for them to sit on, which
Brown recognised as those presented by the late Mr.
Lander. They were thence conducted into an oblong
court, surrounded by huts, where, after again sitting two
hours, the Attah sent to say, " he wished God to bless
them, but it rained to-day, and that, as rain never falls
on the King, he could not receive them."
The messenger was requested to go back to his
Majesty and say, " they had waited a long time, on the
promise that he would grant an interview; that English
men did not like to be trifled with, and that they must
return to the Captain of the Expedition."
Soon after this, the eunuch came to inform them
the " Attah would see them."
At the same time, a sort of rude throne was prepared
by throwing an ample scarlet cloth over a framework of
bamboo, and over all, a piece of Turkey carpet.

286

THE AUDIENCE.

A discordant din of drums and rude instruments of
reeds, &c, announced very shortly the approach of his
Majesty. A door was suddenly opened at the further
end of the court, whence he was borne in on a large
cushion, by eight stalwart slaves— the difficulty with
which he was carried, plainly testifying to his large
size and weight. The noise of the populace outside was
deafening. Having deposited the Attah on his throne, a screen
was suspended before him for a few minutes, probably to
conceal some further arrangement of his toilet ; on this
being withdrawn, the sovereign of Iddah received the
strangers in a composed and dignified manner. He is
a person of immense size, the skin jet black and shining,
the eyes large, but sluggish. He wore an ample tobe of
red velvet, and a pair of loose scarlet ' trowsers, with a
helmet-shaped cap of divers colours, ornamented with
beads and coral : a profusion of this latter hung around
his neck. His feet, which were enclosed in very large
red leather boots, surrounded with little bells, dangled
carelessly over the side of the throne. A large crimson
umbrella was held over him. There were several fan-
bearers in the suite, who observed a certain regularity of
motion in keeping the air freely circulating. On
the left stood the " King's Mouth," or prime minister,
having in his hand a small horn, partly covered with red
cloth. Under the throne sat the judges (Mallams), and
a host of others, all eager to hear the " white man's
palaver."

THE ATTAH'S "MOUTH." 287
Johnson, the interpreter, was then desired to say, "that
the party came by order of the Captain of the ships,
who, with three other gentlemen, were Commissioners to
the Attah from the Queen of England, conveying her
Majesty's desire to make a friend of the Attah, as also of
all good black men. That the Commissioners hoped the
Attah was in good health, and they would be very glad
if he would come on board, and receive the Queen's
message from their lips. That the interpreter himself
had been once a slave, taken when a boy from this very
place ; but, through the power of the Queen, he was
made a free man ; and such her Majesty wished all men
on earth to be."
A small present, sent by the Commissioners, was
then shewn the Attah ; on which he asked through his
' mouth,' or prime minister, " if they had said all, and if
they had done ;" and being informed they had for the
present ; the Attah, through his ' mouth,' replied :
" I am glad, and I first thank God to see you
near me. If your countrymen are glad to see me, they
must believe what I say. The late King wished white
men to come to his dominions, but he did not care to
see them. I am now the Attah, or King, and white
people have come to visit me, and it gives me great
pleasure. If they intend to be true friends, they must
not be in a hurry ; for I like my friends to eat and
drink with me several dajss. If a stranger comes to me,
I cannot let him depart without a fair and proper

288 THE ATTAH'S IMPORTANCE.
understanding. I did not like to come out in the rain ;
but the white men were resolved to see me, and I
imagined from that, they could stop it ; but it rains
as much as ever. The river belongs to me, a long
way up and down, on both sides, and I am King.
The Queen of white men has sent a friend to see me. I
have also just now seen a present, which is not worthy
to be offered to me — it is only fit for a servant. God
made me after His image ; I am all the same as God ;
and He appointed me a King. Can I send a messenger
to the Queen of the Whites ?"
Dr. McWilliam said, " Most certainly ; the Queen will
be delighted to hear from the Attah of Iddah, and to
establish a lawful trade with him."
The Attah, through his 'mouth' — "You ask me
to go on board of a ship. A King in this country never
goes on board ship. He never puts foot in a canoe.
When white people were here before, the King never
went on board. If any one desires to see me,
he must come to me. If to speak privately, I will
dismiss my people. If it be a public matter, then I
shall allow them to remain ; but the King never goes on
board ship."
Dr. McWilliam said, " they were only messengers,
and not at liberty to say anything more ; they could
only convey the King's answer to the Commissioners ;
but felt assured, that if a palaver was held with them,
the Attah would be much more satisfied."

THE PROCESSION. 289
The Attah — " Very well, I will see no one, unless the
chief man (captain) comes. Good night ! God bless
you all!"
Turning to Johnson, the interpreter, who was an
Eggarah, and a relative of the Attah's, he said, " You
may thank God your family is now on the throne."
The Attah was very much amused at Mr. Schon's
spectacles, and even smiled, which obliged the fan-
bearers to hide the royal countenance for a short time ;
as it is contrary to etiquette to let strangers or common
people witness an emotion so entirely beneath the
dignity of an Iddah sovereign. When he eats or drinks,
the persons in attendance all turn their backs to him,
that he may not be seen doing what is inconsistent with
their notions of royalty.
3 a.m. Th. 79° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 76°
9 a.m. „ 77° „ „ 74°
3 p.m. „ 76° „ „ 74°
9 p.m. „ 76° „ „ 73°
4th. — This has been an important day, and full of
interest, the conference between the Attah of Iddah and
the Commissioners having taken place this afternoon.
They landed at 2 p.m., accompanied by such officers as
could be spared from the different vessels ; a guard of
marines, led by Duncan, master-at-arms of the 'Albert,'
a fine-looking man who had been in the 1st. Life
Guards, dressed in the uniform of that regiment, with
cuirass and helmet. The procession was headed by a
Timmani black, from Sierra Leone, in sailor's clothes,
vol. I. u

290 WAITING FOR THE AUDIENCE.
bearing the union-jack. On landing, the party was met
by a native band with wooden drums and reed instru
ments, which continued to perform a variety of simple airs,
or what one might properly style " a concord of rude
sounds." Passing along a narrow path for about two
miles, we reached with difficulty the dwelling of Princess
Amadd Bue. On all sides, the inhabitants testified the
greatest delight at the presence of the white people;
shouting out " Sinuh ! Sinuh ! God protect you !"
and shook their clenched hand at us, which was very
complimentary, while not a few jumped about and
danced in the exuberance of their happiness. There
was an immense crowd assembled, all eagerly pressing
forward to get a glimpse of the strangers, or to be near
the Attah's musicians.
Having received the Commissioners and officers with
great politeness, the Princess dispatched a messenger to
the Attah, to inform him of their arrival. She was still
in her mourning attire, a loose black cloth folded negli
gently round her ; the natural darkness of her skin was
heightened by an earthy preparation. Her niece, Idjee,
was with her. Palm-wine, native beer made from Guinea
corn, and goora or kola-nuts, were handed round, the
affable hostess first partaking of each, to shew there was
no poison in any of them. The goora-nut is used all over
Western Africa, not only as a tonic, and to add a gotit
to fluids, but also as an especial mark of welcome and
distinction to the stranger. It is an agreeable bitter.
The kernels have a thin external covering of a chocolate

AMADA bue.

291

colour ; within, the fruit is of a purplish tinge, traversed
by darker fibres. It is generally divided — not unfre-
quently as boys divide apples, i.e. by the teeth — into
small pieces when presented. This Princess is the
same person who was so influential on Lander's visit,
and was then called the Queen. She still appears to be
all-powerful; at least she had the arrangement, as
before, of our interview with the King, though she did
not accompany us. She bears evidence of increased age,
and being in mourning, she was so filthily dirty and
mean in her appearance, that it required some exercise
of faith in the correctness of our recollections to induce
the belief that she was the gay, bustling woman who
managed all the preceding King's affairs, and who,
taking Lander's arm, led us into the royal presence. She
now crawled out of a dark hut, and sat in the entrance,
conversing with us on various points relative to our pre
sent and former visits ; having remembered Commander
William Allen quite well, and inquired after Mr.
Lander. One of the missionary gentlemen explained to her the
views and benefits of Christianity, which she listened to
with deep interest, and expressed a desire that Christian
' Mallams' should be sent to teach them. She acknow
ledged the folly of the superstitions of her country ; but
having been brought up in the observance of them, and
being but a woman, did not dare to make any alteration
in her faith. As to human sacrifices, she allowed that
they do invariably obtain, on the death of Kings and
u 2

292

DIRTY COURTIERS.

chief men ; as also when their successors take up the
office : at least one wife and ten eunuchs and servants
forfeit their lives on the demise of an Attah. Although
she could feel for others, yet she would wish to be
placed in a position so to suffer.
Amadd Bue's house is situated at the northern
extremity of the cliff, commanding a view of the river
and of the country to the eastward, through which a
beautiful little stream meanders among cultivated land
and magnificent forests.
After having exhausted all" our topics of conversation,
and some jars of country beer, with the dirty Princess,
we became tired of her company, and wandered to the
precincts of the palace, rather prematurely, as it ap
peared, for no preparations were yet made for our
reception. We sat some time in a small court-yard,
surrounded by buildings having verandahs, and some
attempts at architectural ornament. At one end was a
lofty thatched tower, which was erected, we understood,
in order that the late King might be enabled to see
our vessels. We were here reminded of the respect due
to the place by an attendant, who requested us not to
talk loud. Some great men, and some very dirty ones,
soon began to assemble. Among the first was Lobo,
the chief judge ; a fine-looking person, very handsomely
dressed: his manners and appearance were, indeed,
so dignified and elegant, that he at least could not
be classed among the uncivilised.
The court now filled with people of all grades, judging

o);

THE ATTAH OF EGGARAH. 293
from their motley appearance, though it is to be pre
sumed that none but the privileged were allowed the
entree. Among the crowd were a number of ' Mallams,'
one of whom was pre-eminent in age and importance,
of which his long snowy beard was a very distinguished
evidence. A party issued from a side-door to the sound of bells,
and we then expected the King to make his appearance.
They took their seats at the upper end of the court, with
their backs to the verandah, which was concealed by
a curtain. The musicians made a loud discordant
noise, and the populace outside gave a shout; at
the same time a large curtain was lowered at the end of
the court, and Ochejih, Attah of Eggarah, was seen on a
throne, formed of a bamboo frame, covered with mats
and carpets ; the latter were given him by Lander. He
was almost smothered by his garments, and surrounded
by attendants, who were fanning him vehemently. Their
office was also to conceal the royal countenance when
speaking or laughing, and they then uttered the most
hideous yells, in which the courtiers joined. This
practice Commander W. Allen had seen at the Court of
Fandah, and it was brought here by the present King,
who is of the royal family of that country ; it had not
been introduced by the former sovereign:
The Attah was arrayed in an ample tobe, fantastically
brocaded with gold, beneath which was another of red
velvet ; and, judging from his size, many others of

294 THE MALLAMS.
various hue might have been his under-garments. The
trowsers were loose, and of the favourite colour, scarlet.
His feet were inserted in a pair of enormous red leather
boots, to which a number of bells were fastened ; and
the royal pastime of jingling these, ever and anon,
reminded us of the nursery rhyme —
" Rings on the fingers, bells on the toes," &c.
A large brass or gilt plate, with a raised representation
of the human face (not unlike ' the man in the moon'),
suspended from his neck, and hanging down on the
breast, seemed to be an important article in the
regalia. It was worn by the former King when
Lander and Allen visited him. His cap was conical,
something like that of Obi's, but ornamented with
feathers ; and in his ears were ivory discs, stuck in the
lower lobe, large enough to cover the whole ear.
The principal courtiers were seated close round
the throne, with their backs towards it, excepting a large
party (probably of ' Mallams,' or ' Mahomedans,' as the
old man before mentioned was at their head) ; these sat
facing the King. They were, for the most part, neatly
dressed in white tobes and small caps, though some
had them blue or checked, with a sort of embroidery
round the opening for the neck. Others wore dresses
which they seemed to have vowed never to take off, they
were so filthy and so ragged.

A DIGNIFIED JUDGE. 295
Lobo, the chief judge, was pre-eminent for dignity, as
he was in the elegance of his dress, and looked re
markably handsome. His tall figure enveloped in an
ample tobe of very light blue cloth, with a broad fringe
of red figured damask; beneath this appeared a loose
shirt of scarlet cloth. Over one shoulder hung a scarlet
scarf; several leather amulets were suspended round his
neck ; one of which was covered with snake-skin. He
wore a dark woollen cap, with a blue band ; each
ear was partially concealed by an ivory ornament, which
was retained in its place by piercing the lower lobe.
His fingers were covered with various metallic and ivory
rings. A loose pair of scarlet trowsers completed
the costume. He was attended by a young slave, who
carried the sword of justice. His whole appearance was
extremely commanding, and his features expressive of
intelligence, dignity and benevolence, which accorded
well with the accounts given of him by his countrymen.
The Attah attempted to look very grave and im
portant, but at once invited the Commissioners and
officers of the party (who had accommodated themselves
with seats as well as they could, none having been
provided) to shake hands, which they did, each repeating
the salutation, ' Sinuh !' Mr. Schon, our excellent
chaplain and missionary, when it came to his turn,
addressed him in the Haussa language, in the style
usually observed towards Kings and great people —
' God give you long life !' To which he responded

296 THE bekki'n SALIKI.
" Amin, Amin !" looking astonished that a white could
speak in the native language. Captain Trotter now
intimated, through Johnson, the interpreter (a relative of
Ochejih's), his wish to open the proceedings, when the
Attah was ready.
As it is quite beneath the dignity of an Attah to reply
from the throne except through his ' mouth,' or Bekki'n
Saliki ; this functionary, who stood near the throne,
explained, " that when strangers came to visit him, the
Attah first gave them water; after which he will be
ready to hear." This speech elicited the applause of all
his court, as well as the people outside, who were probably
apprized, in some way, when to join the acclamations.
Palm-wine, country beer, in small English jugs,
and goora-nuts were then handed round, and when
partaken of, the Commissioners thanked him for the
refreshment. The Attah observing some of the officers writing, said
through his ' mouth,' or interpreter, " that he did not
like it." It was, however, soon explained to him, that
they were merely taking a description of his court,
which caused him to laugh. The fan-bearers imme
diately put forth their fans to screen their sovereign
from such an exposure of his feelings, it being quite
incompatible with Eggarah royalty to betray any emotion
in presence of strangers.
Attah (through the ' mouth,' or interpreter). — If you
have anything to say, begin.

THE CONFERENCE. 297
Commissioners (to Johnson). — Tell the Attah that
our sovereign, the Queen of Great Britain, has sent the
four ships to the river, and the four Commissioners now
present, with a message to him ; and that she wishes
her people and the Attah's people to be good friends.
(This announcement was followed by a loud shout
of applause.) Our Queen is most anxious that black
men should not be taken away from their country, their
homes, their wives, children, friends, and sold into
slavery ; but wants the trade in slaves to be done
away. (All became very silent and attentive at this
statement.) The Queen desires to do away with that
traffic altogether, and to establish instead of it a friendly
commerce in palm-oil, camwood, ivory, and any other
articles the Eggarah people can produce for sale.
Attah's ' mouth.' — The Attah is very glad. (A
loud shout from the attendants.)
Commissioners. — Tell the King, that English people
trade with all parts of the world ; and that the Queen
will encourage her people to come to Iddah to trade, if
the King will abolish the Slave Trade.
Attah's ' mouth.' — Attah says, when you have said
all, he will answer.
Commissioners. — Say to the King, that if he will
consent to give up the Slave Trade, our great Sovereign
will not only encourage her people to come to Iddah to
trade, but that the King shall have one twentieth part
of all merchandise sold in the Eggarah country from
British ships.

298 THE CONFERENCE.
Attah. — Very good.
Commissioners.-— Will the King make a law to
abolish the Slave Trade in forty-eight hours.
Attah. — Promises to do so.
Commissioners. — Tell the King that English ships
have been here to trade, but his people have been so
busy in slave-dealing, that they have not had any cargoes
ready to sell them ; it will therefore be impossible for
us to recommend them to come back, unless the King
does away with the Slave Trade, and gets articles ready
for traffic when the ships come.
Attah. — Will do so.
Commissioners. — Say to the King, that as he has
agreed to abolish the traffic in slaves, the Queen has
sent him a handsome present, and will be very glad to
hear that the Attah has put down the Slave Trade. The
King will have to sign an agreement, and when it is
done, the presents shall be given to him ; and say
further, that it is our religion which makes the Queen
and the British people anxious to do good to the African
people. That she does not trade, but that her
people do.
Commissioners. — Tell the King that we profess the
Christian religion, and are anxious his people should be
taught. Attah. — Very well.
Commissioners. — Tell the King that God's word is
contained in this book (handing up an Arabic Bible to
himj, and that it will be left with him.

THE CONFERENCE. 299
Attah. — Is very glad. (The Bible was handed by
his people to the chief ' Mallam,' or priest, to inspect).
Commissioners. — Say to the King, that this Bible is
God's book ; that teachers will come and instruct his
people, and when they do come, he must treat them
well. If the Attah's people meet a boat on his waters
carrying slaves, he must break the boat or canoe, and
liberate the slaves.
Attah. — Is willing. (Another loud shout of appro
bation.) Commissioners. — Say that the Queen's subjects must
be permitted to trade with any of the Attah's people ;
that English vessels or boats may pass up and down
the river, whether they stop to trade or not. That the
Queen of England has plenty of ships on the great
water to catch ships carrying slaves, and that she sets
the black men taken in them free. The Queen is very
powerful ; so much so, that the sun never sets upon
her dominions.
Attah. — If you have done with all the questions, he
will give you an answer.
The list of presents intended for his acceptance was
then read. On which the Attah said, " He was much
obliged to the Commissioners ;" and said, "God save the
Queen." Commissioners. — Ask the Attah what articles his
people most require, that they may be brought up here
to market. The English want ivory, cotton, indigo,

Missing Page

Missing Page

302 THE CONFERENCE.
holy. God made heaven and earth in six days, and
rested on the seventh.
Commissioners. — God does not allow us to make
any image of Him ; but we pray on the Sabbath day,
and keep it holy. God made everybody. If a man be
rich, God bestows it ; if a man be strong and healthy,
God gives it. God directs all things in the world.
Being now almost dark, and no lights forthcoming,
the interview was concluded until Monday, when the
Treaties were to be finally adopted. Before the Com
missioners departed, the Attah sent for Duncan, whose
striking uniform and soldierly appearance took his fancy
very much. He wished to know if the Queen had many
soldiers as fine looking and well accoutred. He could
scarcely believe the statements about our military force.
The King was as impatient as Obi, but with more
dignity. He frequently said, " When you have done
with all your questions, I will answer them." But if he
intended to have made a long speech, he was prevented
by the lateness of the hour, which he frequently alluded
to by pointing to the setting sun, and he appeared to
think, as Obi had, that the white men did not know
the value of time. All the points of the Treaty were
acceded to on their being proposed, his anxiety to
receive the presents being evidently an all-prevailing
motive, though, in some of his remarks, he shewed
that he was not inattentive to his interests, nor to the
explanations which were given. A considerable portion

THE CONFERENCE. 303
of time was occupied in complimentary speeches on
both sides ; and, on one occasion, when our august
and beloved Sovereign was alluded to, he called forth
a burst of enthusiastic loyalty from our party, by saying
' God bless the Queen,' which was immediately re
sponded to by our bugles playing the National Anthem,
all the officers of course standing with heads uncovered,
unmindful of the tropical sun.
The Attah wished to see the bugle, the complicated
construction and gold-like material of which excited his
astonishment, and he no doubt would have been glad to
accept it. He was, however, too well-bred to give
utterance to such a wish. He only asked for some
writing paper, which was promised.
In reference to the objects proposed by the Agricul
tural Society, in establishing a Model Farm on the
banks of the Niger, Dr. Lushington and Sir T. F.
Buxton, had addressed a letter to Lord John Russell,
urging the great importance of having the nascent
Colony on British territory, and, indeed, that it was
indispensable, in their judgment, for the success of the
views of the Society. His Lordship, however, thought
it right only to instruct the Commissioners to make
this proposition the subject of their careful inquiry, with
a view to reporting :
1. Whether a tract of land of that nature could
easily be obtained, and on what terms.
2. Whether such territory might be acquired in a
district deemed tolerably healthy for Europeans.

304 INSTRUCTIONS.
3. Whether the neighbouring tribes would be likely
to be friendly or hostile to the proposed agricultural
establishment; and
4. What force would be necessary for the protection
of such territory.
His Lordship further directs, " You will have carefully
to weigh, therefore, the practicability, advantages, and
dangers of acquiring sovereignty for the Crown over a
considerable territory. You are not to satisfy yourselves
that a single chief is willing to sell his dominions, or a
portion of them, but are to consider the hazard of
jealousy, and of hostility being excited among neigh
bouring chiefs, by the appearance of the British flag, as
a token of sovereign power in the midst of their pos
sessions. You will have to calculate the force that
would be necessary to maintain and defend the territory
that might be acquired — the facility or difficulty of
relief-— the extent of territory necessary to protect those
who might seek shelter and security within its borders, as
well as the danger of invasion from any European
power which might have settlements on the coast."
The Commissioners took all these points of view
under their serious consideration, and the only one
which appeared in an unsatisfactory light, was with
respect to " the facility or difficulty of relief" — which
we could not but see from the experience we had had
of the fatal climate, and the intricate navigation of the
river, as well as the shortness of the period during the
whole year in which it would be open to vessels of our

CESSION OF LAND. 305
draft, was not to be decided on favourably in the present
insufficient state of our knowledge.*
The sovereignty of the territory, therefore, which
the Attah was so willing to cede was only accepted
conditionally, subject to the approval of Her Majesty's
Government. Sept.4.— 3 A.M.Ther.770 Wet bulb Mason's Hyg.74°
9 a.m. 78° „ „ 74°
3 p.m. 82° „ „ 75°,5
9 p.m. 80° „ „ 76°

* In a dispatch subsequently received from Lord Stanley, the
Commissioners were expressly prohibited by his Lordship " from
concluding any treaty or agreement with any African Chief, which
should have the effect of binding Her Majesty to give military aid
to such chiefs, or to assume any right, or sovereignty, or protection
over any portion of the soil or waters of Africa. In no case are
you to take any step which may fetter the discretion of the Queen's
Government."

VOL. I.

CHAPTER XIII.
The ' Wilberforce' and ' Soudan' dispatched across the river to procure
fuel — Hostile character of the Natives — Their wars with the Egga-
rahs — Savage appearance — Arms — Beauty of the country — Ants'
nests — Their formation — Snakes — The kola or goora-nut — Town
of Wappa— The Chief " Egada Yaluelama"— King Obah of Benin-
Human sacrifices — Specimens of birds— Snakes — Venomous cen
tipede — African scorpion — Final interview of the Commissioners
with the Attah — The treaty signed and attested — Arabic Bible
presented — List of presents — Scene in the Attah's palace — City of
Iddah — Divided into districts — Militia — Houses — Market place-
Articles for sale — Cotton manufactures — Native smiths — Arms, &c.
— Dying — Method of fishing — The Mallams — Physical character of
the natives — Form of government and laws — Cavalry— Sale of
charms — Religion of the people — Their notions of God — Human
sacrifices — Prospects of Missionary labours — Polygamy— Melan
choly death — The ' Wilberforce' gets aground — Fever com
mences. While the Commissioners were thus occupied at
Iddah, the ' Wilberforce' and ' Soudan' were actively
engaged in procuring fuel on the opposite bank. In
this some difficulty was at first experienced, owing
to the hostile appearance of the natives, who came

ANGWILEH. 307
out armed in various ways, and appeared to be
determined not to allow the Krumen to land.
It was thought necessary to beat to quarters, but
Mr. Strange, first Lieutenant of the ' Wilberforce,' took
the most effectual means of disarming them, by
going, himself unarmed, and shaking hand? with the
principal men.
By means of an interpreter, Granby, who fortunately
was born in a neighbouring town, he explained the
motives of the visit, with which they expressed their
satisfaction, by shouting and waving their hands about,
which was meant as a welcome. The country is called
Angwileh, and is well cultivated in yams and other
vegetables. It seems the inhabitants of this bank do not admit
the authority of the Attah of Iddah, and are frequently
at war with his subjects. They are 'tributary to the
King of Benin, and supposing our errand was a hostile
movement in behalf of their opponents, were quite
ready to dispute the point "vi et armis."
None of the Africans we had yet seen were so savage
in look and manner. All were armed with rude knives,
spears, bows, and quivers full of poisoned arrows,
and their resolute independent expression, shewed they
were prepared to use them.
One man laid hold of an officer's gun, perhaps
only to look at it, and in declining to put it into his
hand, it was intimated by a sign that it might kill him,
on which the negro pulled out one of his arrows, and,
x 2

308 TURRET ANTS.
by sundry gestures, gave us to understand that in his
opinion, it was quite as deadly and unerring as the white
man's weapon. Some of the officers went into the country,
and were much pleased with its openness and beauty.
The thick underwood was here replaced by a luxuriant
grass, twelve and fourteen inches high, and the trees
were so far apart and so well arranged, as to give it
quite the character of an English park. Here and there,
some nice plantations fenced in, contained cassada, yam,
pompions, Indian-corn, sugar-cane, all kept clean, and
in the best condition of culture.
Some of the largest turret-ant structures, Termites
mordax, we ever met in Africa were seen here ; they
were cylindrical accumulations of clay, in many cases
five feet high, each surmounted by a conical top, with
overhanging edges, in some there were two or three
of these projecting eaves, probably added to repair
dilapidations in the original roof caused by tornadoes.
A broken and deserted nest displayed the internal
arrangements, which were seen to consist of innume
rable passages, leading to oblong or oval compartments.
All the entrances were from below, near the ground,
and necessarily large, to admit so many inhabitants.
The Krumen, who see many of these specimens of
insect art in their own country, told us the smaller
snakes often find their way in, and make such a hearty
meal off the poor ants, that they become lethargic, and
unable to crawl out again, when the occupants in
return devour the unwelcome intruder. This story

WAPPA. 309
appeared to be so incredible, that symptoms of doubt
were expressed, which induced " Jack Smoke" to vindi
cate his honour by giving us occular demonstration of
the truth of his assertion. He speedily knocked over
a mound, and betrayed a small dark-coloured snake,
which slowly moved from its lurking-place.
These structures are certainly among the most won
derful specimens of insect architecture, and teach Man
how poor and limited are his inventions compared
with the wisdom of that Omnipotent Being, who
can endow even the tiny Termites with instinct to
prepare a dwelling more astonishing than any human
work. Further inland, were many fine cabbage palms
(Areca oleracea), the tender and unexpanded heads of
which are so nutritious when boiled ; but even uncooked,
they are juicy and sweet : Also the kola or goora-nut
tree, (Sterculia acuminata,) with rich dark leaf, its fruit
enclosed in a long shining brown pod, which yields
the African his favourite stomachic, and takes the place
of the calumet of peace, in the black man's reception
of a stranger.
The town of Wappa is about five miles from the
river; the road thither is good and open. At the
entrance to it, the party was obliged to halt near some
lofty and spreading palms, until the chief, Egada
Yaluelama, made his appearance, which he did not long
delay, in expectation, doubtless, of a " dash" or present
from his visitors. He was very civil, offered palm-wine

310 OBAH, KING OF BENIN.
and goora-nuts, and said he would soon get articles for
traffic, goats, fowls, &c, and that on the return of the
vessels, wood should be ready cut.
His country seems to be populous, and he said to
the interpreter, that their King Obah of Benin could raise
10,000 fighting men. This information, perhaps, was
intended to be conveyed to their opposite neighbours,
and was probably over-rated.
According to the account they gave of the King
of Benin, he must be most remorseless in the ob
servance of human sacrifices. Independently of the
numbers immolated at special feasts, three are de
stroyed every day ; one each morning, noon, and night.
The great difficulty in such cases, is to arrive at the
truth ; the estimated number of victims varying, in all
likelihood, with the caprice or love of the marvellous in
the relating party. If the people had here been told we
came to put down such odious proceedings, they would
most certainly have said, as at Aboh and Iddah, " Oh,
human sacrifices never take place in Benin country."
The wooding was carried on actively, the Krumen
making the forest echo cheerily with their good-humoured
laughter, and the heavy stroke of the axe. The natives,
from time to time, came down in little parties ; all rather
rough in manner, and still more rudely attired, having
merely strips of monkey skins, or bunches of grass,
to conceal a very small part of their nakedness. In
their grass hats were some beautiful scarlet feathers,
such as we had not seen in any bird up the

ORNITHOLOGY. 311
river. They were very anxious to procure tobacco,
which is singular, as it grows abundantly in the Iddah
plantations, though apparently so scarce here. In
the long grass, on one of the slopes, some double-
spurred francolins (Chatopus AdansoniiJ were seen, as
also some Guinea fowl. In the neighbouring thickets,
we procured the African ox-pecker (Buphaga Afri-
canaj ; plumage smoky-brown and rufous. The rose-
winged parrakeet (Palaornis torquatusj, of graceful
form ; plumage, very rich green, tail blue, a rose-coloured
ring round the neck. The grey-headed parrakeet
(Psittacus SenegalensisJ ; prevailing plumage green
and grey, with orange beneath ; the crimson nut-cracker,
in its rich brown and crimson ; the Senegal lark-heel,
the golden oriole, the grenadier weaver, the chesnut-
crowned sandfinch (Agrophilus super ciliosusj, the
yellow-bodied weaver. In the vicinity of the overflowed
bank, were various prettily marked halcyons; the
Senegal grey-headed king-hunter; the little rufous
checked king-hunter ; the black-throated wagtail (Mota-
cilla gularisj, the double-collared king-fisher ; and the
black-bellied weaver (Euplectes melanogasterj , in its
rich velvet black, brown and yellow.
Snakes were numerous in the dry grass ; one very large
black one put several of our Krumen to flight. These
noxious reptiles are said to be very common all over
this part of the country. They are much protected by
the natives, who look on them as ' Ju-ju,' or sacred. The

312 SCORPIONS AND CENTIPEDES.
venomous centipede (Scolopendra morsitans) was
also frequently met with among decayed leaves : it has
forty-two feet ; the jaws are strong and horny, each fur
nished, like the sting of the scorpion, with a small tube
and aperture, through which the poisonous fluid issues.
Its bite produces violent inflammation, difficult of re
moval, though not often fatal. A less common, though
more dangerous, insect is the African scorpion (Scorpio
AustralisJ. The body is brown, the legs reddish, the
claws are long and filiform. Its sting causes a painful
and troublesome wound, which occasionally terminates
in a partial slough, or mortification.
Being Saturday evening, all the vessels anchored
in the middle of the stream. We were sorry to find
two cases of fever had broken out on board the ' Albert,'
and two in the ' Soudan ;' there were also several persons
with premonitory symptoms.
3 a.m. Ther. 7 8° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 79° „ „ 74°,5
3 p.m. „ 83° „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 83° „ „ 78°
Monday, Sept. 6th. — After a quiet Sabbath, spent,
we trust, in devotion and thankfulness, for having been
permitted to come thus far in safety — though with anxiety
for the future — we resumed our operations. The ' Albert,'
with the Commissioners, returned to the anchorage at
Iddah, to finish the diplomatic affairs ; while the ' Wilber
force,' went to the opposite bank to complete the wooding.

LOBO. 313
As we had come to a climate, which Almighty
wisdom had adapted to constitutions so different to our
own, we were, of course, aware that we courted danger,
and could not expect to pass harmless, where it had
proved so fatal to others. The symptoms of the effect
of this deadly climate, which had warned us on Satur
day, were this day confirmed by the addition of three
cases of fever in the ' Albert.' In the ' Wilberforce,'
several men were complaining, and unfit for duty. In
the little ' Soudan,' Mr. Ellis, the first lieutenant,
and Mr. Marshall, surgeon, were added to the list.
Lobo, the chief judge, whose gentlemanly appearance
we had so much noticed " at court," came to breakfast
on board the ' Albert,' by invitation. His dress, though
not so gay as on Saturday, was still handsome, and per
haps much more costly, especially his inner garment, a
white cotton tobe, which was covered all over with
passages from the Koran, neatly written and tastefully
arranged by Mahomedan priests, or ' Mallams,' for which
they are well paid. Another tobe was of crimson silk,
quilted. Okien, also, the son and successor of our late
worthy friend, Abokko, came on board to say ' Ga'i
sheka !' ' Good morning.' He seemed very well dis
posed to profit by the friendly recollections professed for
his good old father, whose death was sincerely regretted.
Okien was on his way to Kiri market. Both Lobo and
he, said that this market belongs to the Attah, and that
his word there is law. The canoe had thirty-two

314 CONCLUDING THE TREATY.
paddles, and sixteen passengers ; whether the latter were
free or slaves, could not be ascertained.
Preparations were made by the Commissioners for
going on shore, to conclude the Treaty in due form and
solemnity. Commander W. Allen, being very unwell,
did not accompany them, but signed it on board.
Captains Trotter and Bird Allen, with Mr. Cook, went
attended by several officers. It was late before they
reached the shore.
The Commissioners then had a final interview with
the Attah, who, in his anxiety to see the presents,
did not keep them waiting, as on the former occasion,
but was, in fact, ready to give immediate audience. He
was very affable, agreed to all the articles of a Treaty,
similar to that entered into by Obi Osai, of Aboh, con
taining also a special clause against the continuance
of human sacrifices in the Eggarah country ; and a
cession of such land as the Commissioners might desire
at a reasonable price, for the establishment of a model
farm, or other settlements. He likewise guaranteed the
safe conveyance of letters and messengers through his
dominions, by land or water, and to give them every
assistance. Hakah, the second judge ; Mallam Sabah, or, abbre
viated, Ma'Sabah, and the Attah's private secretary,
Baj&, were ordered to accompany the Commissioners, to
act as agents in the sale and transfer of the required
territory : — the terms on which the arrangements were

IGNORANCE OF LEARNED MEN. 315
to be concluded, having been again explained to the
Attah. The Treaties were then read over, and signed, in
triplicate, by the Commissioners, and by Lobo, the
chief judge, on the part of the Attah, it being contrary
to custom for the latter to write.
The signatures to the Treaty were witnessed and
attested by Hakah, the second judge, and Gibberin,
a ' Mallam,' and several officers of the ' Albert.' Not
one of the Attah's people could write his own name ; so
the usual cross-mark was substituted. The etiquette of
the country, probably, saved the Attah also from an
exposure of his ignorance.
The Mallams are the most enlightened persons, but
few even of them can write, and although they pretend to
read some scraps of the Koran from Arabic manuscripts,
these have generally been acquired by rote. An Arabic
Bible, which had been presented to the Attah, was
handed to the head Mallam, who, in virtue of his office,
was supposed to be learned. He accordingly looked
through it with becoming gravity, but unfortunately for
his credit, with us at least, he held it upside down.
The following presents were then laid before the
Attah :— One double-barrelled gun.
One pair of ornamented pistols.
One gilt sabre.
One case with scissors, razor and knife.

316 LIST OF PRESENTS.
Twelve hatchets.
Two hand-saws.
Twelve hoes.
One silk velvet tobe.
One velvet cap.
One pair silk trowsers.
One silk waistcoat.
Ten yards of crimson silk.
Ten yards of Merino.
Five yards of scarlet cloth.
Five yards of blue cloth.
Two pieces of printed cotton.
Four strings of beads.
Two cut garnet necklaces.
Two pair of bracelets.
Two bangles.
One piece of shirting.
One piece of Madapollan.
One printed muslin tobe.
One piece of baft.
One pair of boots.
One pair of slippers.
One large looking-glass.
Twelve small looking-glasses.
One elephant gun.
One drum.
One tambourine.
One large silk umbrella.
One piece of Turkey red twill.

LIST OF PRESENTS. 317
Two pieces of handkerchiefs.
One telescope.
Twelve padlocks.
Two lamps.
Twelve snuff-boxes.
Twelve coronation medals.
Twelve nuptial medals.
One piece of muslin, gold and mull.
Five ounces of real coral.
One quire of writing paper.
Twelve spectacles.
Two pair of ear-rings.
One oil press.
The judges and other principal men, were also pre
sented with some European articles, with which they
were quite delighted. But the Attah affecting mag
nanimity, expressed some dissatisfaction and indif
ference about them, although by the manner he
examined the double-barrelled gun, and the green silk
velvet tobe, &c, it was evident he was inwardly rejoicing
over gifts which he could scarcely purchase with half his
kingdom. Having received a promise that the Treaty
should be immediately promulgated throughout the
Eggarah country, and given an intimation to the Attah,
that the white men in all the ships would ask for a
blessing on the him and his people, the Commissioners
left the palace of Ochejih.
The populace testified their approbation, by shoutings

318 CITY OF IDDAH.
and clapping of hands, and numbers accompanied them
down to the place of embarkation.
Two of the officers, who had forgotten some papers at
the Attah's palace, went back, and unexpectedly entering
an apartment where the potentate and his headmen were
assembled, found him divested of all his insignia of office,
reduced to an ordinary size by the removal of the cotton
paddings, &c, and with nothing but a country cloth
round his waist. He and his attendants were all
eagerly examining the presents, and laughing immoder
ately, but dispensing with the offices of fan-bearers, who
were no longer required to screen the august features
from the vulgar gaze. So much for the Attah of
Eggarah. The city of Iddah, the largest and the most important
town in the kingdom of Eggarah, is built on the
summit of the cliff, which rises nearly two hundred feet
above the river. It extends in a direction nearly north
and south; towards the latter point, it again sinks
into a low, somewhat undulating, country. The land
on the north side also slopes downwards, but again rises
into a hill of greater altitude than that of Iddah. There
are, on a rough computation, about two thousand huts,
with a probable population of eight to nine thousand.
On all sides are plantations kept in nice order, and con
taining Indian corn (Sorghum rubensj, sugar-cane
(Arundo saccharum), calabash pumpion (Fueillea
trilobataj, ground nuts (Arachis hypogeaj, bird pepper

NATIVE DWELLINGS. 319
(Capsicum frutescans), okra (Hibiscus esculentisj,
the unripe pods of which contain reddish, well flavoured
seeds, and are often used in soups, which they improve
very much, by affording a nutritious gelatinous matter ;
African yam (Dioscoria alataj ; Tephrosia Toxicaria,
a leguminous plant, producing a fine indigo; and
tobacco in abundance.
Iddah is divided into a great many villages or districts,
each under the governance of a chief, who is responsible
to the Attah. The palace of the latter is situated in the
most secure place, being naturally protected towards the
river by the abrupt and precipitous cliffs, while, on the
other sides, are the surrounding villages, as well as an
intermediate thick mud wall, which encloses it perfectly.
It is, moreover, guarded by a militia, armed with spears,
a few muskets, and swords, some of them not unlike
those of ancient Rome. In time of war these men
have specially to defend the Attah.
Nearly all the dwellings at Iddah are circular, the walls
rise about six feet and are built of clay and small stones
intermixed. The roof is conical, made of palm-leaves
and a thick Cyperaceous plant, somewhat resembling
that from which the Egyptian papyrus was manufac
tured. It is sometimes supported in the centre by a
wooden pillar, often rudely decorated with red and yellow
clay. The overhanging edge of the roof protects from sun
and rain the clay seats which surround the hut where
the family usually sit, it rests on a number of posts,
some curiously carved, and forms a low verandah.

320 DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
When there is a door, it is carved in an elaborate
manner, with a rude sketch of an alligator or some other
animal ; the fastening is a bolt and a rough padlock,
these are, however, seldom required. The furniture and
utensils are few, and generally lying about the court,
such as large earthenware jars for water, which being
spherical, have not the wherewithal to stand alone, and
are therefore placed on rings of grass, and by which
they are also supported on the heads of the female
water-bearers when taken to the river side to be
replenished ; the cooking apparatus are small calabashes
and earthern pots of various form. The machine used
for pounding the red wood and other dyes, resemble very
much the mills found at Pompeii, except that they are
wood instead of stone ; and being hollow, they are oc
casionally employed as adjuncts to the native musical
bands, instead of drums.
On the roofs of most of the dwellings, the griffon or
fulvous vulture takes up his quarters, patiently watching
for any offal which may be thrown out, and which he
soon appropriates. The goats, sheep and fowls, seem
to have here as undisputed a right to the premises
generally, as Paddy's unclean pigs in our sisterland.
The huts of the higher persons, as Mallams, chiefs,
or judges, are painted blue or white outside, and have
occasionally a small space in front paved with pieces of
granite, or even shells. The sleeping-places are simply
raised banks of clay,having mats and some dry grass spread
over them ; the low wooden-seats sometimes met with

IDDAH MARKET. 321
were articles of particular luxury. Everything inside
the building is kept remarkably clean and dry. In
the economy of their dwellings, the higher classes
observe the same protective system as the Attah,
having the huts of subordinates and slaves, and often a
clay wall, surrounding them, so that in the event of an
attack, their persons or houses are less exposed.
The streets are very irregular and numerous; the
principal market is held in the Attah's or northern
division, on a clear level space, shaded by numerous
trees. It is arranged according to the directions of the
chiefs, all articles being properly classed and exposed for
sale on the ground, or on mats. There was a great
variety of vegetables, yams, ground-nuts, palm-nuts,
cassada, kola-nuts, plantains, Indian-corn, sugar-cane,
cocoa-nuts, rice, shea butter, calabash pumpions ; various
native manufactures of cotton, for tobes and body
clothes; red and blue cotton and grass threads, raw
cotton of very short staple ; native made swords, knives,
spears, and little calabashes of dye powders, tephrosia,
oxides of iron and camwood, as also brass and ivory
ornaments for the body, and pipes of clay, or iron very
neatly made.
Cowries (Cyprea monetaj are the only medium of
circulation ; but much of the business is done by barter
ing such articles as each may require. When the
value of anything is below that of a cowry, they
substitute as an equivalent four or five ground-nuts,
VOL. I. y

322 MANUFACTURES.
Everything is conducted with the greatest order, and
with less noise than one usually expects in an African
market. All cases of dispute are brought before the
proper judges. As we walked through the place, we
were quietly and respectfully saluted, on all sides, with
the usual ' Smith, God protect you,' or ' Prosperity ;'
and they seemed well pleased to have white men among
them, showing their various articles for sale with much
good nature and politeness, not pressing them on a pur
chaser, as is too commonly the case in our own markets.
The Attah levies a small tax on all the productions
brought thither for sale. As but few European articles
find their way up here under present circumstances, the
natives are obliged to depend very much on their own
industry and ingenuity for nearly all they require, except
gunpowder and muskets, both of which are eagerly
sought after, and bring high prices.
The most common manufacture is that of cotton
cloths, practised by a great number of females. In
spinning, the primitive distaff is used, such as is
usually seen in Italy, or in some of our own mountain
districts, where the spinning wheel is not always
obtainable. The thread is rough and uneven, but when
carefully woven into narrow stripes by a rude machine-
very like the earliest of our hand-looms— it forms a strong
and durable cloth, much dearer than the English cottons
brought there, and of course only within reach of wealthy
people. The dye-pits are very numerous all over the
town, and are kept constantly more or less filled, as

NATIVE BLACKSMITHS. 323
they believe the older the dye-liquid, the stronger the
effect on the cloth. The tephrosia which is used
for the blue, is moistened, made up into little balls,
then dried, and thus exposed for sale ; the red dye
is probably a species of tesphesia or camwood, it is
mostly in a powder. . The cloth is kept saturated
in the pit for a fortnight, and sometimes three weeks,
and certainly the colours are most beautiful ; but as
they have not the aid of 'chemistry to supply a proper
mordant, they are not permanent. A white tobe is
usually worn under a newly dyed blue one, and it soon
becomes charged with colour.
: The next most important occupation, is that of
smith and armourer. They are said not to have
any method of smelting iron, the ore of which is
very abundant, but depend entirely on the supply
from the coast, as also such few working tools as
are possessed. Their native implements are rude, yet
the swords, spear-heads, arrows, are well tempered and
not badly finished. The bellows are merely two wooden
cylinders, each with a piston, and a piece of loose hide
securely fastened round the handle and the top of the
tube; by alternately depressing one and raising the
other, a continuous current of air is conveyed through
earthern pipes leading to the fire. Many of the swords
we saw were of admirable metal, nicely engraved, and a
few inlaid with portions of deeper coloured or more
highly oxydized iron. Charcoal, in small square pieces,
is burned instead of common fuel, and to this may,
Y 2

324

LEATHER WORKERS.

perhaps, be attributed the fine temper of the manu
factures. The preparation of leather is another useful branch of
industry ; the tree from which they procure the requisite
tannin is liguminous, and we believe it to be the
Pterocarpus Senegalensis. Sheep-skins and goat
skins are mostly turned to account this way, and when
cut up into stripes, are neatly plaited into bridles,
necklaces, armlets, belts, whips, fly-fans and cushions ;
the hides of larger animals being tanned for the soles of
the sandals worn by the richer persons.
Fishing is followed chiefly by slaves — they use nets
made of the twisted fibres of the plantain leaf, and
either stake off certain parts of shallow water, or
employ large circular nets, which they suspend over the
banks, and let down and draw up every few minutes,
throwing in a bait to entice the fish to approach, and
sometimes a vegetable poison which soon kills the fish.
It must be admitted, from all we saw, that the
Eggarah people are industrious, and evidently more
advanced in. civihzation than their neighbours, lower
down the river. Their grounds are much better culti
vated, manufactures more encouraged, and their social
comforts increasing. How far these may be connected
with, or influenced by, the superior knowledge of the
Mallams or Mahommedan priests, we know not. If
such be the case, how much encouragement for the pro
motion among them of Christianity, with all its
attendant blessings !

DISEASES. 325
The well-known effects of locality on the develop
ment of the human body, receives also a confirmation
in the inhabitants of Iddah, where the greater altitude
of the district, and its superior dryness, operate in their
favour. The people are generally well made, and of the
middling stature — indeed, the flowing and ample tobe
gave many an appearance of height somewhat above
that. The features are more softened and rounded
than the Ibus. The lips protrude, but are less thick,
the forehead ample, though retreating. Altogether they
have a look of superior intelligence.
Here, as at Aboh, the natives assured us the rainy
season was the most healthy, that when the water began
to decline, there was always much sickness even among
them — that small-pox then raged very often with
dreadful violence, and when once it commenced, it never
ceased without an immense mortality. This, we trust,
will now be gradually limited by the introduction of the
vaccine. Craw-craw, or African psora, is always
common among the poor and dirty. Their fevers,
although active in character, are not very often fatal.
The Government of the Eggarah country is monar
chical, and vested in the Attah or King of Iddah, the
succession is hereditary in the female line, the eldest son
of the sister ; thus, it is said, Ochejih, the present Attah,
succeeded, taking precedence of the many children ot
the former King. Under certain circumstances, which
we could not ascertain, the sovereign has the right of

326 MILITARY ARRANGEMENTS.
nominating a successor. The above mode of succession
through a sister's son, is exactly the same as obtains
among the Ashantis, and is one of the many strange
coincidences observable in the social policy of some
others of the West African tribes.
The Attah's power is said to be arbitrary, but still
kept within bounds by the influence of the headmen,
and by the dread of being quietly removed by secret
poison. All important subjects are discussed in an assembly of
the judges, Mallams and headmen, the Attah presiding.
Minor disputes or offences are settled or punished by
the judges, of whom there are several. Lobo, the
Ogboeh or first judge, and Hakah Saije, second, being
also commanders of the forces in time of war. In
answer to many inquiries, it could not be elicited that
the Eggarahs make inroads on other states for the pur
pose of taking slaves. They depend more on de
fensive than offensive warfare, but all captives are
retained, or sold as slaves. With the exception of
Mallams or priests, every able-bodied man is liable to be
called out in seasons of difficulty, and enrolled in
divisions having appropriate officers. They are armed
with spears, and swords, as also bows with poisoned
arrows, but the musket is much preferred to the latter.
They have a limited number of cavalry, mounted on
the small, thin, though powerful horses which are chiefly
brought from above the confluence, or from the hill

RELIGIOUS AUTHORITY. 327
country to the eastward. Unlike the Ibu people, they
pay little attention to the arming of canoes, their general
employment being more on land than on water.
Mazamba, a Mallam, officiates as minister of war.
The whole of the rehgious power is confided to the
Mallams or priests, who are all unlettered Mahomme-
dans, but who have had the advantage of travelling in
other parts of Africa, where, in addition to a few sen
tences of the Koran, and an imperfect knowledge of the
great Prophet's doctrines, they have picked up a good
idea of business, which they combine with the duties of
their office.
They also monopolize the medical branch, in which
they are as ignorant as their more sacred one. Another
of their most lucrative sources is the sale of amulets, or
charms against the visitation of sickness and the agency of
evil spirits ; they are made up of any written paper
which may come in their way, and usually enclosed in
neatly plaited strips of leather to be suspended from the
neck. A certain Israelitish operation — performed by the
Mallams, — is here generally, but not universally
adopted; this, with a rude and painful method of
scarifying and cupping is the only attempt made at
surgery. The Mallams were initiated by Dr. McWilliam and
the other medical officers, into the practice of vaccina
tion, and as it would add to their importance and

328 NOTIONS OF A DEITY.
emolument, it may probably become general, and prove
at least one beneficial result of the Expedition.
The greater proportion of the Iddah people are
Pagans, though with a confused impression of Mahome-
danism, which obtains more among the richer persons,
who can afford to pay the Mallams for such limited
instruction as they can convey orally. No public idols
are allowed, yet most of them have little amulets, which
hold much the same place in their estimation as the
wooden Fetiches of the Ibus and other tribes.
They have all a clearer notion of God as an Almighty
Ruler and Divinity, than any negroes we had met with,
and offer up their prayers direct to Him, but they
believe in the intermediate agency of good and evil
spirits, charms, and Mallam influence. They look
forward to a heaven and hell, or places where good or
wicked people are hereafter to inhabit ; this is most likely
derived from the extraordinary views their religious
preceptors hold up to them of the Islam scale of rewards
and punishments.
Human sacrifices always take place on the death of
the King ; on which occasion, one or more wives, and
several eunuchs of his establishment, are killed, to
accompany the great man in the new world he has
entered upon. Every sovereign, on coming to the
throne, does this also, to exemplify the control which
his position gives him over the lives of his people.
The natives do not regard the subject with horror or

INFLUENCE OF MAHOMEDANISM. 329
antipathy. Amada Bue, the Attah's sister, even said
she would like to be sacrificed to attend her husband.
The conferences which took place with the authorities
during our stay here, shewed an evident wish on the part
of the people for the establishment of white settlers, and
Christian teachers. Attached though they be, so
strongly to their own customs and religion, they cannot
help seeing, that Europeans, of even the lowest caste —
and such as they more commonly have a knowledge of
from their connexion with the Slave Trade, are their
superiors in those points most coveted by the carnal
heart — power and wealth ; and it is probable, that if the
climate admitted the possibility of white men settling
there, the natives would soon adopt their suggestions for
the improvement of agriculture and trade. We must
not, however, presume, from the advance Maho-
medanism has there made, that the Christian religion
would also be as readily engrafted. On the contrary, we
must candidly confess our fears, that this partial success of
the great Impostor's disciples, may be one of the greatest
obstacles to any missionary attempt, whenever, or by
whomsoever made ; particularly as it meets the sensual
taste, and long-established custom of keeping large
harems. Polygamy is permitted, but the first wife is the prin
cipal, and arranges the affairs of the harem. The usual
number of wives is three, but the Attah has a much
greater establishment. There are no restrictions on the
women, as in most other Mahomedan countries ; all are

330 INTERPRETER DROWNED.
allowed to be looked at, and to walk about with unveiled
faces. The principal attendants about the Attah's resi
dence are eunuchs : they are numerous, and are much
confided in by their despotic master.
This afternoon, a beautiful specimen of antelope
passed the vessel, swimming down the stream : it had
probably been on some overflowed bank, and carried off
by the late freshes, Some of the 'Albert's' boats
pushed off soon after, in apparent haste, and it was sup
posed in the other vessels that they had gone to pick it
up ; but we found, on returning from an unavailing
search, that Johnson, one of the ' Albert's' crew, a
native of Iddah, who was so useful as an interpreter in
the late negociations, had fallen over-board. He was
said to have been slightly intoxicated ; and, to render
the matter more painful, there were several canoes along
side the ship when the accident occurred, and they could
with ease have saved him ; but not one of his hard
hearted countrymen put forth a helping hand, or offered
the least assistance.
The unfortunate man had been taken away as a slave
many years previously, and having been recaptured, and
brought to Sierra Leone, he was educated, and had even
been advanced to the situation of catechist. After a very
long absence from his native place, he returned to find a
relative on the throne of Iddah, and all seemed to
promise well for future residence among his countrymen,
when he was thus suddenly cut off.
In the meantime, the ' Wilberforce,' in coming over

DIFFICULTIES. 331
from the opposite shore, where she had been for a
supply of wood, unfortunately got aground on the upper
point of an island, against which the current ran so strong,
that it was found impossible to get her off immediately ;
the 'Albert' having carried away a couple of hawsers in
making the attempt. To add to the difficulty of
our position, fever was decidedly spreading. Rabbling,
a sapper, and Lucas, boatswain's mate, a very active and
powerful man, have both been suddenly prostrated ;
many more are complaining of incipient symptoms, and
in all the other vessels, several persons already attacked,
are in a dangerous condition.
3 a.m. Ther. 79° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 80° „ „ 76°
3 p.m. „ 81° „ „ 75°
9 p.m. „ 80° „ „ 76°
7th. — We were employed all day, endeavouring to
heave the 'Wilberforce' off, but without effect. The
' Albert' tried to do it with steam ; but, having been
again unsuccessful, we laid the stream anchor out and
commenced lightening the vessel as much as possible.
Captain Bird Allen went to the King to make
some explanations, which afforded an opportunity
for further demands for his headmen.
The number of cases of fever in all the vessels
has increased. This evening, one of the 'Albert's'
stokers, John Peglar, expired after a short illness, having
only been seized with the fatal fever on the 4th.

332 RISE OF THE WATERS.
3 a.m. Ther. 78° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. „ 80° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 84° „ „ 76°
9 p.m. „ 75° „ „ 73°
8th. — Heavy rain in the night. At daylight, renewed
our exertions. Brought all the weights from the fore-
hold to the quarter-deck. A bower anchor was laid well
out on the port bow, which we had difficulty in doing ;
and, by the additional purchase of a runner and tackle
on it, we succeeded in heaving off. Until we had this
anchor out, all our trouble in lightening was of no use, as
the strong current forced the fore part of the vessel
higher on the island. Employed clearing the ship, and
restowing the fore-hold. We got under weigh in the
evening, but only proceeded sufficiently far, to be out of
the influence of the noxious exhalations. The river rose
very fast, and nearly all the end of the island on which
we grounded, was under water. The few huts on the
spot were rendered uninhabitable, their foundations
sapped, and some thrown down by the flood.
Among the reeds, which yet appeared on parts of
English Island, a very beautiful and new species of
Sultana, or water-hen, was procured — the Porphyrio
Allenii, since figured in D. W. Mitchell's splendid work
on Ornithology. The prevailing colours of this bird
were rich dark green above, softening off into violet ;
the upper part of head, deep violet, breast blue, and
vent, white. The plumage of the young bird is brown,

I! I ;' V il If I I-

INCREASE OF THE FEVER.

333

with a black, well-marked arrow down the breast. It
has a very singular appearance.
In the evening, the effluvium from the stagnant water
and decayed vegetable matter, was extremely offensive.
This, therefore, joined to exposure to the sun in heaving
the vessel off the bank, was probably an exciting cause
of some of our first fevers. We had six men in the
sick-list, the 'Albert' many more ; the cases as yet, how
ever, appeared to be slight. Commander W. Allen was
unwell, caused doubtless by fatigue and exposure.
3 a.m. Ther. 78°' Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 78°.' „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 84° • „ „ 77°
9 p.m. „ 77° „ „ 74°
9th. — On leaving Iddah, we went over to the
Angwileh side, to land Granby, who, having been in
formed, that his. mother was .living in a village at a short
distance, requested permission to go and see her. We
therefore paid him his- wages in goods, gave him a pre
sent for the chief, and told' him, if he wished to return to
the white meii, he would be received at the model farm,
about to be established at the confluence.*
We grounded once, and encountered the tail of a
squall, which seemed to rage heavily among the hills.
Anchored for a short time to trim ship^ as she would
not steer in shallow water, being too much by the stern.
* He never made his appearance there.

334 K1RI MARKET.
We then proceeded up the river. The scenery was
beautiful in the extreme ; the Kong mountains right
ahead, and the banks on either side finely wooded. Passed
Kiri market, and saw several canoes going down the
river, with slaves and small horses. Kiri Island looked
like a magnificent park, and the grass, at a little distance,
resembled a well-cropped lawn, the tops being level, but
the grass was at least ten feet high, growing in a
deceitful swamp.
Several large crocodiles have been passed to-day;
some on the banks, and others in the water, looking
very much like a part of a tree, as they move slowly
with the stream near the surface.
The channel is here very rocky.
3 a.m. Ther. 79° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
9 a.m. „ 79° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. „ 76° „ „ 73°
9 p.m. „ 76° „ „ 73°
1 Oth. — On arriving at Barraga, or Beaufort Island, in
order to prove its doubted insularity, we entered the
channel which separates it from the main bank. On
both sides, the land is well cultivated, and on the slope of
Mount Etse (Soracte), advantage has been taken of
small spaces of good soil among the rocks. The popu
lation appears great, and is of the Kakanda nation. We
found the channel very winding, and several small rivers
as tributaries. The island has a ridge of rocks running
through it, terminating in a hill-— an excellent site for a

A LARGE SNAKE. 335
fort* All the other parts are now covered with water.
Anchored for a short time in the channel, and sent a
boat on shore with the master and second master, to
take astronomical observations on Dagona (the little
Terrys), one of several rocky islets at the north end of
Barraga, where we afterwards ascertained one of the
' Soudan's' men had been buried. Their operations
over, and being in the act of stowing away the instru
ments, they observed a large black snake, coiled up
between the legs of the theodolite. They were, as may
be supposed, rather startled ; but, after gazing at them
coolly for some time, the reptile slowly unbent his coils,
and gliding away, left them unharmed.

* Barraga, or Beaufort Island, is of granite, much decomposed on
the surface, which is rough from the projection of felspar crystals.
This granite contains little mica, and is composed of felspar and
quartz, with a small quantity of hornblende. The blocks are piled one
upon another, like masonry, and the soil between them is a rich loam.
At Okaji, the granite is large, crystalline, and contains very beautiful
opalescent felspar. — Dr. Stanger's Geol. Report.

CHAPTER XIV.
Mount Franklin — Villages— Nearly all the officers of the ' Soudan'
laid up with sickness — Adda Kuddu in ruins— English doctors
appreciated by the natives — Kakanda people — Ameh Abokko, the
Annajah, or Governor, visits the ships — Deaths of some of the
crews from fever — Insupportable heat and closeness of the atmos
phere — Visits from snakes — How accounted for — Drs. Stanger
and Vogel ascend Mount Patteh — Stirling Hill selected as the best
locality for the Model Farm — First instalment of purchase money
paid to the Attah of Eggarah — Model Farm utensils and furniture
landed — Malam Sabah — Towns on the banks of the Chaddah —
Mr. W. H. Webb left in charge of the ' Amelia' tender and Model
Farm — Fever progressing at an alarming rate in all the vessels-
Death of Mr. Nightingale — Mortality in the vessels — Weakly
condition of the crews generally — Captain Trotter decides on
sending the sick to the sea-side in the ' Soudan' — Meeting of the
Commissioners — The sick received on board the 'Soudan'—
Increase of the fever on board the ' Wilberforce.'
10th. — At 12.30 we weighed, and proceeded up the
river. The 'Albert,' towing the schooner, and the
' Soudan' were a-head ; we saw mountains in the dis
tance, the native name of Mount Franklin is Apotto,

PROGRESS OF THE FEVER. 337
passed two or three villages on each side of the river,
and saw one on the brow of a small hill on the right
bank surrounded with tilled ground. The Indian corn
is said to be here well cultivated.
The ' Soudan' stopped a short time to procure wood
at another village on the left bank, most picturesquely
situated on the side of a steep hill. It was found
to be inhabited by about six hundred Kakanda people,
who had been driven away from a settlement on the
other side ; they were at first rather distrustful, but this
soon wore off, and they were anxious to be friendly with
the " white men."
In the afternoon, the 'Wilberforce' took the
' Soudan' in tow ; the fever was making fearful progress
in the latter, Mr. Ellis, the first lieutenant, Mr. Marshall,
the surgeon, and many of the crew having been attacked
by it in its worst form ; heat, dryness of the skin, and
almost incessant vomiting being the most prominent
symptoms. Mr. Thomson, the senior assistant, was
sent from the ' Wilberforce' to take charge of the
sick. Being unable to reach Adda Kuddu before dark,
we came to an anchor about 7 p.m., four miles
below it : the banks are high and rocky on both sides,
and at that town the width of the river is 2,030 yards
by micrometic angle. We had frequent lightning, and
the weather was very warm.
3 a.m. Ther. 78° Wet bulb Mason's hygr. 74°
9 a.m. 79° „ „ 75°
VOL. I. Z

338 ADDA KUDDU.
3 p.m. Ther. 84° Wet bulb Mason's hygr, 75°
9 p.m. 81°,5 „ „ 79°
11th. — We weighed at daylight, and soon arrived off
the old town of Adda Kuddu, which had been proposed
as an eligible situation for our settlement. We found
there many ruins, indicating the site of this once-thriving
place, and the industry of its late inhabitants, especially
numerous large dye pits, but so rapidly does luxuriant
nature in these climes throw a mantle of vegetation
over the deserted scenes of the labours of man, that it
was with difficulty we made our way through a place
where lately nothing but busy feet and merry voices had
been. Captain Trotter and Commander B. Allen went on
shore, accompanied by the geologists, botanist, and Mr.
Carr, the superintendent of the Model Farm — Com
mander W. Allen being too unwell to join them. On
examination, we were disappointed at finding that the
soil was unfavourable for the growth of cotton.*
The ' Soudan' was detached across the river to
communicate with a town on the left bank, inhabited by
the persons who had been driven away from Adda

* At Adda Kuddu, the granite is mixed up and complicated with
gneiss, which generally dips at an angle of 60° to the southward.
The granite forms veins, running into gneiss in all directions, and, in
some places, the granite contains imbedded masses of gneiss. —
Dr. Stanger's Geol. Report.

saliki'n magoni. 339
Kuddu by the Filatahs. Some officers landed, and
were much pleased, not only with the dense forest
scenery — among which the umbrageous Baobob, with its
pendant fruit, was conspicuous — but also with the
frank and joyous reception of the inhabitants. In this,
their new locality — where they hoped the intervening
stream would protect them from their relentless perse
cutors — they had already raised comfortable dwellings,
and were engaged in different native manufactures.
Several looms were here in busy ply on narrow cloths
of blue and white cotton, the dye of the former pro
duced by a fine description of Tephrosia, which grows
abundantly in most places. Palm-oil, palm-nuts, goora-
nuts, shea butter, tobacco, rice in small grass bags, fowls.
broad-brimmed hats, &c, were exposed for sale in a sort
of market-place.
It had been arranged that one of the medical officers
should remain at the Model Farm, and on its being
explained by the interpreter, that a white doctor, or
" Saliki'n Magoni," would be near them, they all clapped
their hands in apparent gladness, and it was soon
known all over the little community.
Perhaps in no part of the world are English medical
men m higher estimation than in Africa, where they are
not only looked on as the healers of infirmities, but are
supposed to be invested with miraculous knowledge,
and powers of good or evil, surpassing even the native
Ju-ju, or Fetiche men. Most of the people pressed
forward, shaking hands in their own fashion, and offering
z 2

340 THE ANNAJAH.
little presents, expressive of their kindly feelings.
There were from twelve to fifteen hundred persons.
The chief of this place, who was also the Annajah, or
Governor of the district about to be ceded, was taken
on board ; he looked highly pleased, but rather nervous,
especially when on the point of starting, several of his
people, who seemed to treat him with great respect,
came down to the bank and begged him not to em
bark. While the negociations were going forward, Com
mander W. Allen found out that the Annajah —
named Ameh Abokko — was brother to his old friend,
Abokko, whom he much resembles. Though not so
tall as his truly noble brother, he is a fine, dignified
old man ; he said he remembered Commander W. Allen,
and expressed much satisfaction at seeing him again,
always taking him by the hand when he came near, and
calling him Avoiki'n Abokko, that is, " the friend of
Abokko." He entered very readily into our views, and
said, of his own accord, " It is true what you say, that
the Slave Trade is contrary to the will of God."
Having ascertained that the land in the neighbourhood
of Adda Kuddu was not suitable for the culture of cotton,
we weighed and went up to examine the vicinity of
Stirling Hill, where the ' Alburkah' had been so long
at anchor in the year 1832-3. From all our inquiries,
we learned that one of the parties concerned in the
territory about to be purchased, was Manda'iki, or the chief
of the mountain which rises at the back, and is called by

FATAL CASE OF FEVER.

341

the Nufi people, Patteh, and Lukosa by those of Kakanda.
We found the temperature of the Niger at this place
85° ; much lower down, where it is mixed with the water
of the Chadda, it was but 83°, showing that the
latter is cooler, owing probably to having its rise in
higher mountains than the Niger.
We had the first proof to-day, in the ' Wilberforce'
of the fatal effect of the fever, which has unhappily
commenced its ravages, in the death of James Kneebone,
a young seaman who was taken ill on the 4th ; other
cases were assuming an unfavourable appearance. Lieu
tenant Ellis and Mr. Marshall, of the ' Soudan,' were
dangerously ill. Commander W. Allen was also unwell
and fatigued in the evening.
3 a.m. Ther. 78° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
9 a.m. 79° „ „ 75°
3 p.m. 86° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. 81°,5 „ „ 77°
Sunday, 12th Sept. — We were truly glad of a day
of rest; our divine service had, however, some very
melancholy attendant circumstances, the corpse of the
poor fellow who died yesterday was lying close to us,
and during the whole of the service we had the noise
of the workmen preparing the coffin, but this was
unavoidable, as decomposition was rapidly going on.
We buried him in the evening, near the spot where
Commander W. Allen, on the former visit to this place,
had laid some of his companions.

342 VISIT OF SNAKES
It was a trying day to the sick of all the vessels. A
fiercely burning sun, the air close and sultry, with the
thermometer 90° at noon in the shade, and scarcely
below 85° even at night, raised the fever to its height;
and it seemed with several, that without continued
artificial ventilation by fans, and frequent cold spongings,
they would have expired under the oppression of
breathing and heat of skin. Many of those not yet
entered on the sick-list were evidently beginning to feel
weak and apprehensive.
In addition to the enervating fever, we seem to be
threatened with another and more singular visitation,
not less dreaded by the seamen. For the last two
nights, the little tenement on the starboard sponson —
which having been comfortably fitted up by Lieutenant
Strange for some of the blacks, went by the name of
Kru Town — had been disturbed by unwelcome intruders
in the shape of snakes, which were now abundant in the
waters, being driven off the high grasses on the inun
dated islands. The fear of these — as some were said
to be venemous— was certainly one of the horrors, and in
all the vessels several were killed at night, having either
twisted themselves up by the eable, or by the paddle-
wheels. While we lay aground at English Island, they
were seen frequently coiled round the tops of the reeds
which appeared above water, and one of the officers of the
' Amelia ' tender, absolutely practised with a pistol at a
bunch of these reptiles, collected in that way near the

ACCOUNTED FOR. 343
vessel. On questioning a native on the subject, he gave
a very satisfactory explanation. During the dry season,
when the river is low, much of the land, now overflowed,
is quite exposed and connected with the banks, and the
grass soon springs up luxuriantly, affording a sunny and
open resort for the numerous insects ; snakes then come
out of the surrounding woods of these localities, and
when the water rises, cutting off large patches, like
islands, communication is prevented with the banks.
As the river gets still higher, they are obliged to take
refuge on the reeds, and when these are submerged, they
swim off, attaching themselves to the first object they
meet in their course which may afford a refuge ; in this
way several must have accidently come in contact with
the vessels in the stream. Whenever a noise was heard
in " Kru Town," the people used to say, " Another
snake come." One of a very venemous character was
killed on board the ' Soudan.'
Dr. Stanger, the geologist, and Dr. Vogel, the
botanist, went to the top of the mountain, Patteh, which
they found perfectly level, with many villages and much
cultivation; the grass was different from that on
the banks of the river, being short and fine, and
well suited for pasturage. Dr. Vogel says that the
greater part of the indigenous fruits of Africa are to
be met with on the summit of this mountain. Those
gentlemen appeared to have suffered much from the
heat and fatigue of the ascent, though the mountain is
not more than one thousand two hundred feet high,

344 KAKANDA PEOPLE.
as determined by them with the barometer ; this agreed
very nearly with Allen's trigonometrical measurement of
the former Expedition: he was then very desirous, during
the long period passed at the foot of this mountain, to
ascend it, and made several attempts on a pony,
which want of strength always obliged him to abandon,
The inhabitants of this district are of the Kakanda
nation, and they wage continual war with the natives
of the plains, for the purpose of making slaves, a speci
men of which was witnessed in 1833. From this
locality, a magnificent view presents itself of both the
Niger and Chadda, their tortuous course abruptly merg
ing into one broad and bright expanse of water at
the confluence, while the distance was bounded on all
sides by mountains.
On this elevation, the Kakanda people have two
small towns, and also a village at the base of the
northern side of the mountain, which is there somewhat
precipitous. The inhabitants of this romantic situation,
form a little state, totally independent of the neigh
bouring tribes. Their great enemies, the Filatahs,
however, keep them in a continual state of apprehension
and uncertainty; scarcely a year passes without a
predatory visit, but such is the attachment of the
natives to their mountain home, that they cannot be
persuaded to leave it permanently, and although some
times obliged to make a temporary migration, they in
variably return.
They are mostly small, well-made, active men, the

NATIVE PRODUCTIONS. 345
hands and feet not large, the features regular and
pleasing, and their manners particularly mild and
agreeable. The eyelids of the women and children are
coloured with antimony, which gives a look of softness..
The faces of this tribe are generally marked with ellip
tical incisions, extending from the temples to the chin.
In saluting a stranger, they stoop almost to the earth,
throwing dust on their foreheads several times ; the
females in this humiliating practice, sprinkle the dust
on the breast. The men all wore clean white tobes,
nicely worked over the chest and sleeves, with red and
blue devices, and were generally armed with daggers,
knives, and a broad two-edged sword, or bow and
arrows. The women had the usual cotton body-cloth,
but their innate modesty and gentleness, made them
appear very prepossessing.
Notwithstanding the poverty of the soil, mostly fer
ruginous earth, they contrive to cultivate Indian-corn,
yams, and rice abundantly. This latter was brought
on board in small grass bags, containing from three
quarters of a pound to two pounds, and was sold at a
very low price, in cowries or articles of exchange,
certainly not more than one half-penny the pound.
They also brought dried buffalo's flesh, fish, shea butter,
tobacco of a mild flavour in large flat rolls, and
which they called Taba. Blue and red dye-balls of
Tephrosia and camwood ; Uoji's, or native whips of
hippopotamus skin; earthern pipe heads; chalk in
small squares, prepared from incinerated bones, used

346 BOTANY.
on the fingers when spinning, or occasionally for
decorating the person, it is called Effu in the Aku, and
Alii in Haussa. Most of the manufactured articles
brought on board were of excellent description, con
sidering the rude implements used: — swords and
daggers well tempered, and some of the blades
ornamented with attempts at Arabic characters;
calabashes very neatly carved, and dyed of various
colours. The trees in this neighbourhood are of large size,
especially the Adansonia digitata or Baobob, and a
remarkable variety of Sarcocephalus ; while among the
brushwood, the Ceratophyllus, Salvinias, and a leafless
Euphorbia, were abundant ; the milky juice of the last
plant is said by the natives to be extremely acrid, and
the least quantity causes blindness if applied to the
eyes. Previously to leaving England, we had been assured
there was a species of cactus very similar to, if not the
same as, the true Opuntia cocci, but we looked in vain
for it, and were, with regret, obliged to see the insects,
we had brought so far and so carefully, perish for the
want of the necessary food. Every one of the plants
we had taken on board at Teneriffe were overrun and
destroyed by the large colonies of cochineal which had
formed on them.
Mr. Toby, mate, had a very bad night, and we feared
he could not get over it — two new cases to-day. A
man brought a small basket of raw cotton from

SELECTION OF SITE. 347
a town about three miles below; he said a great
deal is grown around his village ; every person has
some for his own purposes ; the staple appeared to be
fine, but short ; the plant is an annual. We procured
also specimens of the Pirn, used for spinning by
hand, which is precisely similar to the method
formerly practised in England, and still by the peasants
of Italy, &c.
The Commissioners were anxiously employed every
day on board the ' Albert,' deliberating on the best plan
to be adopted for our future proceedings, which the
rapidly increasing sickness, as well as the advance of the
season, rendered very perplexing.
The botanist and geologist having examined the
nature of the soil and productions, it was thought, that
although these were not very favourable, yet all things
considered, the land in the neighbourhood of the hill,
called Stirling by Lander, was suitable for the first
location of the infant colony.
Barraga, or Beaufort Island, and Mount Patteh,
seemed to be the most eligible positions for the
erection of forts; and the country on the right bank
of the river, in the neighbourhood of the confluence,
having been abandoned by the former inhabitants in
consequence of the frequent incursions of the Filatahs,
afforded many advantages, since no jealous rights of
property would be invaded, and the emigrants — who
had gone no further than the opposite bank of the river
to be safe from their oppressors — would, it was pre
sumed, very soon gladly return to the homes of

348 mount patteh,
{
their fathers, and re-people the territory under the
protection and better laws of the white strangers. The
Attah of Eggarah, had also expressed a wish that
we should take possession of a large portion of this
land.

All these circumstances being duly considered, the
Commissioners resolved to fix on a district with natural
boundaries, comprising some beautiful country, with
great variety of mountain and plain, watered by little
streams, and completely commanding both the rivers,
above and below the confluence.
9 a.m. Ther. 81° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
3 p.m. „ 87° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. „ 82° „ „ 76°
13^.-9 a.m. Ther. 79° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 74°
3 p.m. „ 85° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. „ 79° „ „ 74
141 h. — The Annajah, or Governor of this part of the

MOUNTS ETSE AND ERRO.

349

dominions of the Attah, and the Commissioners ap
pointed by his Majesty, being on board the ' Albert,' and
also the chiefs of the districts about to be purchased,
the Deed of Cession was fully explained to them in the
Haussa language, and the frontiers agreed upon. It
was especially stipulated, that all those native proprietors
of slaves, who now were settled, or who hereafter might
settle, on the ceded territory, must not expect to hold
those slaves under British protection. The agents
thoroughly comprehended the whole meaning of the
Deed, to the reading of which they appeared to give
much patient attention ; — unless we mistook apathy for
such a laudable bearing.

The tract of land fixed on, and agreed to
by the agents, extends about sixteen miles along the
right bank of the river, and four miles from its
margin. The boundaries were pointed out to be, 

350 DEED OF CESSION.
on the north, a rivulet flowing between the mountains,
named in Allen's chart, Victoria and Patteh : on the south,
by the first stream, which may empty itself into the
Niger, to the southward of the island named Barraga,
and including within the said limits the mountains
called Etse (Soracte), and Erro (Saddleback); on the
east, by the river Niger ; and on the west, by straight
lines joining the western bases of the mountains, laid
down in the same chart as Outram and Deacon (the
native names being unknown), and Etse (Soracte), to the
nearest points of the aforesaid rivulets.
For the purchase of this territory, we agreed to give
seven hundred thousand cowries (nearly £45) or goods
to that amount ; one-fifth part of which was to be paid
when the Deed of Cession was signed, as security for the
purchase and delivery of the said land ; the remainder to
be paid as soon as the British people shall have had
possession of the land for twelve months, provided they
should at that time wish to retain it, either at one pay
ment, or in five instalments, as might be most con
venient to the Queen of Great Britain.
The agents having signed the Deed, in presence of
the sons, and some of the headmen of the chief of
the mountain villages of Lucojah, fourteen bags, con
taining one hundred and sixty thousand cowries (Cypraa
Moneta), the currency of the country, were delivered
for the Attah of Eggarah, as the first instalment of the
purchase money. These small white shells — the only
medium of circulation in central Africa — are found
in great abundance in the Maldive Islands. We

CONFLUENCE OF THE
RIVERS NIGER AND CHADDA,
Shewing the River Boundary of the Territory ceded to
Her Majesty by the
ATTAH OP IDDAH,
IN SEPTEMBER, 1841.
The Soundings are in feet and are reduced to Low Water
on the assumption that the River fell about 6 feet after the
Quorra' Steamer grounded, in the middle of December, 1832.
SCALE OF MILES.
2

CAPTAIN WILLIAM ALLEN, R.N.

~Mou,n6 StMLchael

PAYMENT. SOVEREIGNTY. 351
had been supplied with a large quantity, bought in
London by the ton, from the price of which we estimated
the value of one thousand to be about fifteen pence. In
the former Expedition, Lander considered one thousand
to be worth one shilling. The natives generally drill a
hole, and string them in hundreds, ten of which are tied
together, thus facilitating the operation of settling
which is a very tedious affair when detached, as both
the buyer and seller insists on counting them, and when
they differ, it has to be done over again. As ours were
loose, it would have been an endless trouble to have
counted them ; Captain Trotter, therefore, substituted
measure for number, and it was easy to make the natives
see, by giving a fair quantity, that it was to their
advantage. On the performance of this part of the ceremony,
there was neither patience nor apathy displayed. So
large a treasure, amounting to about £9, is seldom
known to change hands at one transaction between
the merchants in this country, and many were the eyes
that gloated on it.
Power was reserved to her Majesty the Queen of
Great Britain to assume the sovereignty of the aforesaid
territory at her pleasure ; and also to sanction, modify,
or annul the whole or any part of the Deed of Cession.
At the same time, it was declared by the British autho
rities, to guarantee to all persons the possession of their
houses, and the land they might at the present time have
under cultivation.
Mr. Carr, appointed to manage the proposed Model

352 THE EGLINTON TENT.
Farm, next made application to the Commissioners, to
have an allotment of from three to five hundred acres of
the purchased land, for purposes of cultivation.
The Commissioners acceded to this request, subject to
certain conditions, namely, that an annual rent of one
penny per acre should be paid in consideration thereof,
into her Majesty's treasury, by the Model Farm Society,
of Mincing-lane, London. The superintendent was
charged to respect the rights of the natives who might
be in occupation of any houses or lands under cultiva
tion ; which, however, he was at liberty to hire, provided
the native proprietors were willing to part with them, on
such a reasonable compensation being paid as should be
decided upon by the Commissioners, or in their absence
by the senior naval officer, or their deputy ; in whose
presence, and in that of the chief of the district in
which the land should be situate, it was provided the
bargain should be made, and the boundaries settled ; —
the same to be duly registered.
In the meanwhile, as no obstacles were anticipated to
these arrangements, and in order, as much as possible, to
avoid delay, which in our present circumstances was
very necessary, the house, stores, and model farm
furniture had been landed, and a gay tent, which figured
at the Eglintoun Tournament, was set up as a temporary
residence for the superintendent. In disembarking the
cumbrous iron-work of the model farm, our paddle-box
boat unfortunately got adrift, owing to the strength of the
current, filled, and sank in a deep part of the river. The
loss of the iron was comparatively of little consequence,

THE MALAM SABAH. 353
as it must be long ere cotton gins and presses can be
wanted ; but the loss to the ' Wilberforce' of a valuable
boat, was irreparable. From its weight, it would be
doubtless buried in the sand, so that, even in the dry
season, there could be very little chance of recovering it.
The Malam Sabah, or Ma' Sabah, the second judge of
Iddah, and one of the agents on the part of the Attah
to settle the boundaries of the territory, came on board
the 'Wilberforce,' with his wife, a very agreeable-
looking young woman : they were indeed what might
be called an interesting couple. She was very grateful
for some female dresses. The ' Malam' is the son of
the old Malam Kitab, who, at the instigation of the
former Attah, had poisoned several of Lander's crew,
and had even sent Commander W. Allen a dose, which
he declined taking. He would not, however, visit the
sins of the father upon the son, who professed great
attachment for him ; but treated him well, in the hopes
of deriving some information, especially on the subject of
the River Chadda, which Ma'Sabah had frequently
navigated. 14^. — 9 a.m. Ther. 82° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 75°
3 p.m. „ 86° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. „ 82° „ „ 77°
15^.-9 a.m. Ther. 79° Wet bulb Mason'sHygr. 74°£
3 p.m. „ 86° „ „ 78°
9 p.m. „ 80° „ „ 75°
16th. — At a consultation of the Commissioners,
Captain Trotter stated, that the Expedition had now
vol. i. A A

354 THE CHADDA TO BE EXPLORED.
arrived at the confluence of the two great rivers, on the
banks of each of which nations might be found, with
whom it would be very desirable to open friendly com
munications. On referring to Lord John's instructions
and dispatches, it appeared that we had power to divide
the Commission, with the view of saving time, by
carrying on simultaneous operations, which the advanced
season, and the increasing sickness, now made very
desirable. It was, therefore, decided that H.M.S.
' Albert' and ' Soudan' should ascend the Niger, to treat
with the chiefs on its banks, and especially with the
King of the Filatahs, at Rabbah ; and that they should
go as far beyond that place, either in the ' Albert,' or
' Soudan,' as circumstances would warrant. If rocks
should be found to obstruct the passage of the river
for a steamer at or near Bussah, as there was every
reason to apprehend, it was proposed — if health would
permit— that Lieutenant Strange and a party should
advance in the galleys and large canoes, which had been
provided for such a service.
In the meantime, H.M.S. ' Wilberforce' was to pro
ceed up the Chadda. It was known by Allen's former
voyage up this magnificent river, that, with the exception
of Fandah, which lies at a little distance from it, the banks
for nearly a hundred miles, at least, were but thinly
peopled; but beyond that, the large city of Jakoba
was supposed to be situated. This was supposed to
be an active contributor to the Slave Trade, as well as
Bishi, where there is a large market. Above these, we
had no acquaintance with the course of the river, nor of

PROTECTION FOR THE MODEL FARM. 355
the nations in its neighbourhood, except from the in
formation derived from Ma'Sabah* A river of such
magnitude, however, equal to, if not greater than the
Niger, must roll its waters through an immense extent
of country; and if, as there was much reason to
believe, it should prove to be the outlet of the great Lake
Chad, or Tzad.f discovered by Denham and Clapperton,
not only would an important geographical problem be
solved, and new fields opened for commercial enterprise,
but access would be gained by the double operations to
the principal sources of the Slave Trade.
Captain Trotter and Commander Bird Allen in the
Niger, and Commander W. Allen and Mr. Cook in the
Chadda, were accordingly empowered to make Treaties
with the chiefs, subject to the sanction of the whole
Commission ; and the details of the proceedings of each
sub-commission-meeting were to be embodied in the
General Report of the Commissioners to her Majesty's
Government. For the protection of the new settlers at the Model
Farm, and at the request of Mr. Carr, the ' Amelia' was
left at the anchorage, abreast of Stirling, under the
charge of Mr. Webb, mate — now commander — with Mr.
Collman, assistant-surgeon, and one of the sappers; also
Mr. Ansell, to procure specimens of the most valuable
plants and seeds. Captain Trotter gave Mr. Webb full
* Page 375.
t See a paper on this subject by Captain W. Allen in the 13th
volume of the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society.
A A 2

356 CAPTAIN TROTTER'S INSTRUCTIONS.
instructions for his guidance during our absence. He
was directed to take means to secure such of her
Majesty's stores as might be landed, by surrounding
them with palisades and a ditch; and, generally, to
throw up such defences on the territory as he might
think advisable. He was to make a survey of the
territory ceded to her Majesty, commencing with
the immediate neighbourhood of the Model Farm,
marking particularly the boundaries of land at present
occupied by the original proprietors, with the view of
securing them from infringement. He was, however,
strictly enjoined to avoid such exposure as might
be dangerous to European constitutions. The oppor
tunity of a fixed station, for scientific observations,
was not to be neglected. Supplies of five stock, yams,
&c, were to be purchased, and reserved for the use of
her Majesty's vessels on their return, to the extent of
one month's consumption for one hundred men.
The black men under Mr. Webb's command, together
with such natives as might be induced to work for hire,
were to be employed in cutting and storing firewood, and
in preparing fuel on Mr. Grant's plan, by mixing coal
tar and pitch — of which there was a quantity left in the
' Amelia' — with charcoal, as a substitute for coal-dust.
Captain Trotter further directed Mr. Webb to " con
sider every information regarding the territory, and the
persons living upon it, as of primary importance ; ascer
taining the numbers, occupations, and dispositions of the
various inhabitants you meet ; and all particulars relative
to any predatory incursions, which may have been made

FURTHER ARRANGEMENTS. 357
by the Filatahs, or others, upon the natives; and
learning, as far as possible, the nature and pretexts of
such incursions. In fact, it is so desirable that every
information should be afforded her Majesty's Govern
ment, to enable them to judge of the propriety of
retaining this portion of country, lately ceded to her
Majesty, that the enquiries concerning it cannot be of
too varied a character ; and, for this purpose, you are to
keep a daily journal of observations, mentioning in it
whatever may attract your notice, and furnishing me
hereafter with a copy thereof."*
In fact, nothing was neglected that the most unwearied
zeal and forethought on the part of the senior officer in
command of the Expedition could devise for the accom
plishment of its objects. The variety of perplexing
considerations and intense anxieties, which in so short a
time crowded in upon him, were such, that nothing but
moral courage of the highest order could have sustained
even the most robust constitution. A Mind, however,
which to human wisdom is inscrutable, has seen fit to
establish His order of things in such a way, that our
devices may not subvert. The officer in charge of the
' Amelia,' to whom the foregoing comprehensive instruc
tions were directed, was almost immediately obliged to
be removed, on account of sickness, to the 'Albert.'
Mr. Kingdon, assistant clerk, in the ' Soudan,' was then

Captain Trotter's instructions to Lieut. Webb.

358 INCREASE OF THE FEVER.
appointed in his place, as, under existing circumstances,
no executive officer could be spared from either of
the vessels for this service.
9 a.m. Ther. 82° Wet bulb Mason's Hygr. 76°
3 p.m. „ 84° „ „ " 770
9™. „ 78° „ „ 740
1 7th.— For the last three days, the fever had been
progressing rapidly in all the vessels, and in the little
' Soudan,' only six persons were able to move about, and
these shewed evident proofs, by depression of spirits and
lassitude, that the dreadful climate was too surely doing
its work. Lieutenant Ellis, Mr. Marshall, Mr. Waters, and
several of her crew, were still in a most dangerous state.
On board the ' Albert,' Mr. Nightingale, the assistant-
surgeon, was at the point of death ; and several in the
'Wilberforce' in almost as hopeless a state. The
scenes at night were most agonizing. Nothing but
muttering delirium, or suppressed groans were heard on
every side on board the vessels, affording a sad contrast
to the placid character of the river and its surrounding
scenery. Nearly every person, even the unattacked, complained
of the enervating feeling. To-day, Mr. Collman, the
acting assistant-surgeon, was desired by Commander
Bird Allen to go on board the ' Amelia' tender, as medi
cal officer. He burst into tears ; and, on being asked
the reason, he replied it was involuntary weakness, pro
duced by the climate. However, it appeared afterwards
that, in addition to this cause, he had, during a little

FATAL EFFECTS OF THE FEVER. 359
repose snatched from his duties, been disheartened by a
feverish dream of his home and family.*
On the 18th of September, the number of sick
had increased to sixty, and death had already done
fearful execution among us. One officer, Assistant-
surgeon Nightingale, and three men of H.M.S. ' Albert.'
John Peglar, stoker; James Robinson, stoker; John
Burgess, seaman. Two of the ' Wilberforce ;' James
Kneebone, seaman; William Rabling, sapper; and
one, Charles Levinge, captain's steward, of the ' Soudan,'
had already fallen victims to the fever; and the
greater proportion of the crews of all the vessels were
now suffering from it, or the premonitory symptoms of
extreme lassitude and debility.
Captain Trotter at first thought that if the sick could
be conveyed to the summit of Mount Patteh, the pure
air of that elevated region might be a sufficient change
to produce a beneficial effect on them. On further con
sideration, however, and consultation with Dr. McWil
liam, the chief surgeon of the Expedition, it was found
that those who most required such a change, were unable
to bear the fatigue of the removal ; and as it was the
opinion of that medical officer, that the best chance
of saving them, was in their being speedily taken to the
sea, Captain Trotter eventually decided on sending away

* That this weakness did not arise from any unmanly fear of meet
ing death, was proved by the last moments of this amiable man on
board the ' Wilberforce,' which exhibited a truly edifying instance of
calm Christian-like, and even cheerful resignation.

360 CONSULTATION OF THE COMMISSIONERS.
all such invalids as the surgeon might think it desirable
to remove.
H.M.S.V. ' Soudan' was therefore prepared hastily
for this service ; and, as the services of Commander B.
Allen, as Commissioner, could not be dispensed with,
Mr. Fishbourne, then first-lieutenant of the 'Albert,'
now commander, was appointed to take temporary charge
of that vessel.
A meeting of the Commissioners was held, at which
Captain Trotter informed them of the determination he
had come to in this respect, as naval Commander of
the Expedition, with whom such power and responsibility
necessarily rested. Commander W. Allen and Mr. Cook
thought that the reduced state of the Expedition, ren
dered it advisable for all the vessels to return to the sea.
Mr. Commissioner Cook said, that if he were to consult
his own feelings, he would say, decidedly, proceed ; but
from the observations which had been made, he was of
opinion, that to ascend the river now, would paralyze
future exertions, and prevent ultimate success ; but that,
if we were to withdraw, we should be able to come up
again with renovated health. Commander W. Allen
stated he wished to place his opinion on record, as the
river would now begin to fall, and the most unhealthy
season would commence, he thought it his duty to
suggest that, considering the weakened state of the
Expedition, and the increasing sickness, the decision of
the Commissioners at their former sitting, namely, to
proceed up both rivers, should not be abided by, but that
all the steam- vessels should leave the river.

DECIDE ON PROCEEDING. 361
Commander Bird Allen said, that as we had arrived
thus far on our progress, and the ' Soudan' was about to
be dispatched with the sick, he conceived it would be
better for ourselves, and more in conformity with the
wishes of the Government, that the two vessels should
persevere for a week at least, by which time it would be
seen whether the sickness was on the increase. Captain
Trotter considered, that as we were all aware before we
embarked upon the Expedition, of the hazard we had
to encounter from the climate, the objections raised
against our further progress did not appear to him of
sufficient force to justify a retreat at so early a period,
whilst so many of us were still in full health ; and
besides, being of opinion with Dr. McWilliam, that we
might possibly reach a healthier climate as we got
higher up the river, he deemed the measure of
sending away the sick would restore such efficiency
to the vessels, as would afford a reasonable prospect of
the ' Albert' remaining up the Niger long enough to
reach Rabbah, and the ' Wilberforce' a corresponding
height in the Chadda ; — or, at all events, to justify our
making the attempt.
Captain Trotter " believed that the measure of
sending the sick to the sea, while it would benefit the
sick themselves, would restore efficiency to the Expe
dition, was founded not only on the consideration, that the
removal of so many men, whose services were not likely
to be soon available, would render the vessels more
effective than they were whilst the sick remained on
board, but that the remainder of the crew, who were

362 REMOVAL OF THE SICK.
still in health, would be then relieved from the
depressing influence on the spirits, occasioned by the
presence of so many of their sick shipmates, and also
that a pre-disposing cause of fever, in the closeness and
impurity of the air, arising from a number of sick
persons being thus crowded together, would be removed,
while those patients whose state did not require a
removal to the sea, would be benefited by being less
crowded in sick quarters."
Captain Trotter, as Senior Commissioner, resolved,
therefore, after receiving the opinions of his colleagues,
that the same course should be followed in regard to the
two larger vessels, which had been determined upon at
the meeting of the 1 6th of September.
The ' Soudan' was accordingly got ready with the
utmost possible dispatch, to receive her melancholy
cargo, and Commander W. Allen was directed to send
his sick on board. That officer, however, feeling
perfectly convinced from his former experience of the
river, and the present condition of the crews, that in a
very short time, H. M. S. ' Wilberforce' would be
reduced to the necessity of following the ' Soudan,'
requested permission to send such only of the sick as
might desire to go; especially as he considered — in
which his surgeon, Dr. Pritchett, concurred — that the
removal of the men in the state in which some of them
were, would be attended with great risk. Only six
expressed a wish to leave, the others, sixteen in
number, preferred to remain by their ship. One man,
on being asked whether he would like to go, said he

DEPARTURE OF H.M.S.V. ' SOUDAN.' 363
thought we had got into a very bad place, and the
sooner we were out of it the better, but he would stay
by his ship.
In order to have as much air as possible for the suf
ferers and to keep them from the other men, Commander
W. Allen had a large screened berth fitted on the upper
deck, in the middle of the vessel, well protected from
the sun, and the dews at night, by thick awnings, from
which was suspended a large punkah.
9 a.m. Ther. 82° Wet bulb Mason's hygr. 78°
3 p.m. 83° „ „ 78°
9 p.m. 78° „ „ 75°
18th.— 9 a.m. Ther. 84° Wet bulb Mason's hygr. 77°
3 p.m. 80° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. 78° „ „ 76°
Sunday 19th. — The 'Soudan' came alongside the
' Wilberforce' to receive our invalids, who took a
melancholy farewell of their officers and messmates.
Prayers were read to the crews of both vessels. It
was an affecting scene. The whole of one side of the
little vessel was covered with the invalids, and the
cabins were full of officers ; there was, indeed, no room
for more.
The separation from so many of our companions
under such circumstances could not be otherwise than
painful to all: — the only cheering feature was in the
hope, that the attenuated beings who now departed would
soon be within the influence of a more favourable
climate, and that we might meet under happier auspices.
In a short time the steam was got up, and our little

364 A SPECIAL CONSULTATION.
consort — watched by many commiserating eyes — rapidly
glided out of view.
On the departure of the ' Soudan,' Captain Trotter
gave orders for the ' Wilberforce' to get up the steam,
and that when he made the signal to part company, each
vessel should pursue the destination agreed upon at the
sitting of the 1 6th instant.
The fever had, however, even in this short interval,
made rapid advances, many more cases having been
added to the sick list. Two of the three engineers
were reported to-day, after the ' Soudan' had sailed,
making altogether thirty-two cases in the ' Wilberforce ;'
and leaving only Lieutenant Strange, Mr. Green the
second master, Mr. Johnson the first engineer, one
stoker, and nine men, capable of doing duty. Of these
several, already complaining, were soon laid up.
Commander W. Allen, therefore, having seriously
considered the desperate condition to which we were
reduced, and the hopeless prospect of the future, when
the signal was made "to part" waited on Captain
Trotter, laying before him the state of his crew, and
requesting a special meeting might be held of the Com
missioners to re-consider our position.
The sitting was held on board H.M.S. ' Wilberforce,'
as Mr. Commissioner Cook was unwell, though his
illness did not prove to be river fever. After the usual
prayers, Commander W. Allen said, that being the only
person present who had experience of the Niger, he con
ceived it to be a solemn duty devolved upon him, to
take upon himself the responsibility of stating, that

REASONS FOR LEAVING THE RIVER. 365
from the knowledge he had of the river, the advanced
period of the season, the increasing sickness in both the
'Albert' and 'Wilberforce,' the difficulty and danger of
having to remain in unhealthy parts to cut wood when
the coals should be expended — that the reduced state
of the Expedition no longer warranted a perseverance
in the prosecution of its objects, more especially should
the sickness continue, as from experience we were led to
infer it would ; and as the moral effect of appearing
before the town of Rabbah in a state of prostration
would be most prejudicial to the Mission. He, there
fore, proposed —
" That, from a consideration of these circumstances,
it appears to be advisable that the Expedition should
return without delay to the sea-side, in the hope of
being able to carry out its purposes at a more
favourable season and with renewed strength."
This advice was in strict conformity with the opinion
which Commander W. Allen had given in England as
to the proper time for leaving the river, which he
considered to be previous to the commencement of the
subsidence of the flood. This usually happens about
the latter end of September, after which, the rapidly
falling river leaves stagnant water on the low lands,
charged with enormous quantities of decaying vegetable
matter, which must render the exhalations very prolific
of disease ; and, if we had found this to be the case
while the river was rising, and the land but recently

366 STATE OF THE RIVER.
inundated, we might expect its virulence to be increased
now that the banks were so extensively flooded.
The danger, moreover, of descending the river under
such circumstances, would be greatly increased. It
is at all times more hazardous to navigate an unknown
river with, than against the current ; when, in addition
to increased speed — over a part of which there is no
controul — the depth of the water is diminishing by the
subsidence of the flood ; if a vessel should, in that case,
unfortunately run on a shoal with such force as to prevent
her being got off immediately, the probability would be,
that the retreating water would leave her immoveably
fixed until the rise of the next rainy season ; as was the
case with the ' Quorra' steam vessel in the last Expedition.
The Niger now, on the 19 th of September, might be
expected to be very near its maximum of flood, which
the natives all agreed was this year unusually high,
covering, therefore, more of the low lands, which would
give increased cause of fevers. Thus then had the
period of greatest danger arrived, and if we had found
the climate so prejudicial under ordinary circumstances,
we might conclude it would be infinitely more so at
the period when these may be said to reach their
climax. All these considerations induced Commander
W. Allen to exhort his brother Commissioners to decide
on returning to the sea.
Captain Trotter and Commander Bird Allen were of
opinion, that although the increased sickness in the

DETERMINATION TO PROCEED. 367
'Wilberforce,' rendered it necessary for that vessel to
descend the river, the ' Albert' having sent away so large
a portion of her's, had restored in some degree her
efficiency, especially as she had a good many more
officers than the ' Wilberforce.' They, therefore, con
sidering that vessel to be still capable of prosecuting
the objects of the Expedition, would not abandon it
while there was a hope of success.
It was with much pain that Commander W. Allen
felt himself compelled to differ in opinion from his
colleagues, with whom, hitherto, perfect harmony had
subsisted, but he offered his suggestions with a most
anxious desire to forward the great objects of the Expe
dition. With his former experience, obtained in the
same locality, by no ordinary amount of suffering, he
could not help anticipating the results which actually
followed, and however much he regretted the decision
of the Senior Officer and Commander B. Allen, he
admired the unshaken courage of those gallant
officers. If it had depended on human means, their zealous
devotion to the cause on which they had entered would
have ensured its success. If any one should imagine
that the prosecution of the Expedition was too soon
abandoned, we insert the above remarks, to show how
unjust and ungenerous it is for those, who being them
selves in safety, undertake to censure the conduct of
officers when surrounded by such extraordinary difficul
ties ; which did not, however, lessen Captain Trotter's

368 FILATAH INCURSIONS.
determination to go on, as long as there was a shadow of
hope of accomplishing what was committed to his
direction. It was finally determined, that the ' Albert' should
endeavour to reach Rabban, with the view of making
treaties with the King of the Filatahs and other chiefs,
while the ' Wilberforce' should, if circumstances would
permit, carry out the intentions of Her Majesty's
Government, in the Bights of Benin and Biafra; or,
if necessary proceed to Ascension
During these discussions, the operations of landing
the stores, &c. for the Model Farm had been continued.
Many natives daily flocked on board the vessels, ap
pearing to sympathize with the sufferings which they
witnessed among the crews; and never was condo
lence more evidently, though silently, expressed than by
the fine old Annajah Ameh Abokko.
The Annajah said, that the Filatahs had marched
down upon his province three years ago, 1838: the
inhabitants, as usual, took refuge on the sand banks in
the middle of the river, and their enemies not having
commenced their retreat before the floods set in, they
were compelled to retire from both these ruthless inva
ders to the left bank, where they found themselves so
secure, that they have remained there ever since, aban
doning the homes of their fathers, from which they
have been so frequently driven. They, however, would
gladly return, and rebuild their town under the auspices
of the white men, if we would settle there, and protect

ABUNDANCE OF PROVISION. 369
them from their enemies, who were still at Egdh, or
at Koto'n Karafi, about twenty miles above the con
fluence. As it was very desirable to conciliate the powerful
chief of Fandah, a present was sent to him by the
Malam Sabah, who promised to explain and prepare
him to accede to the objects of our mission, and
also to secure his friendship to the settlers at the
Confluence. During our stay, we felt the effects of the amicable
disposition of the Attah, in the abundant supplies of
provisions which were brought for sale. The former
Expedition, on the contrary, suffered from the enmity of
the late tyrant, who forbade the natives, under the
severest penalties, from communicating with them, so
that they were sometimes nearly starved.
19^.-9 a.m. Ther. 84° Wet bulb Mason's hygr. 77°
3 p.m. 85° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. 81° „ „ 76°
20th.— 9 a.m. Ther. 83° Wet bulb Mason's hygr. 76°
3 p.m. 83° „ „ 77°
9 p.m. 80° „ „ 77°
Captain Trotter having prepared his dispatches, the
two vessels separated, the ' Albert' to proceed up the
river, and the 'Wilberforce,' with nearly all sick, to
return to the coast.

VOL. I. B B

CHAPTER XV.
Recapitulatory remarks — The entrance to the River Nun — The extent
of the Delta — The Nun the principal outlet — Dense forests — In
creasing population as we ascend — Various nations — Conquests of
the Filatahs — Lobo, the chief Judge of Iddah — Schools — Religion
Advance of Mahomedanism — Simple architecture — Description of
a native dwelling — Cooking — Native beer of the Pagans — Politeness
of the natives in the interior — Treatment of the women — Languages
very numerous — Interpreters speak many very fluently — Haussa the
language of commerce — Dress and ornaments — Growth of cotton,
indigo, &c. — The love of traffic, the ruling passion — Markets —
Dilatory traders — Lander's promissory notes — The principal articles
of trade enumerated — The average profit on European goods
stated— Erroneous estimate of the quantity and price of ivory by
Lander. Before we take leave of the River Niger, we think
that a short resume of our observations upon it, and
upon the manners and customs of the nations inhabiting
its banks, may be acceptable to our readears.* Though
we must premise, that various circumstances, which can
hardly be appreciated by the voyageur autour de sa
chambre ; such as sickness, want of opportunity in the
* The greater part of this Chapter is abstracted from Captain W.
Allen's MS. Narrative of the Expedition of 1832.

passage over the bar. 371
midst of apparent opportunities, difficulty of communi
cation by interpreters, and, above all, lassitude — or,
if he over his wine and walnuts, will have it — idle
ness — the inevitable consequence of the enervating effect
of the climate ; — these various circumstances combine to
render such resume' very meagre, and particularly
unsatisfactory to the aforesaid genus of voyageurs, who
are both numerous and exigeans.
In the very outset, we must confess that our know
ledge of the channels of the river is at present too
imperfect to enable us to give anything like details in
"sailing directions." In general terms, we may say
that the ingress and egress of the Niger are extremely
difficult for sailing vessels. Except at high water, there
is always a heavy surf on the bar ; but at that time, in
moderately fine weather, there is scarcely a ripple, so
that a sailing vessel, with a good leading wind from the
south-west, which generally blows in the day-time, can
easily get in ; but she would be in great danger should it
fall calm before reaching the anchorage, as the ebb-tide
would rapidly sweep her back among the rollers, which
then break furiously. The greatest difficulty, however,
for a sailing vessel is in leaving the river. She can only
attempt it at nearly high water, in order to have it quite
smooth; and in the morning, as the land-wind then
blows, but generally fails before the bar can be crossed,
and when the ebb-tide has commenced, its vicinity is
extremely dangerous.
There is no difficulty for steamers, provided high-
water is exactly taken.
b b 2

372 DIVERGENTS of the river.
If the voyageur should be tempted by the facility
with which we shall whisk him up and down the Niger
in the course of these remarks, to abandon his peculiar
mode of travelling in his easy-chair, to make the abso
lute voyage, we can only tell him that he must care
fully feel his way with the lead as we did. Short
cuts are to be avoided — that is, going from one
salient point to another — as shoals are always found
below these, in addition to the banks in the middle of
the river. The best rule is to steer round all the curva
tures, for there the " big water" is sure to be found,
scooping out the bank.
The Delta, formed by the deposit of the river, covering
an extent of perhaps seven thousand square miles, com
mences above Aboh, at a distance of about ninety miles
from the sea in a direct line. The first divergents that we
can speak positively to, are the Bonny and Benin branches,
so called ; the Nun, which we navigated, lying between
them. These send off innumerable ramifications, right
and left, which diminish in breadth and volume, in their
downward course, till they inundate the whole surface ; or,
more correctly speaking, the banks disappearing, the river
is diffused in one swamp, unbroken except by the mangrove
trees, (Rhyzophora), which have their roots in the water.
The outer margin of this has a barrier of somewhat firm
land, bearing forest trees, which is thrown up by the
opposing force of the sea. In this barrier are about
twenty large and deep reservoirs, or estuaries, where the
water is collected previously to its final discharge into
the sea ; the small rise and fall of which — about six feet

STRENGTH OF CURRENT. 373
only — requiring such an arrangement to enable it to
receive the immense volume of water brought down
during the rainy season.
It has been a subject of discussion, which is the prin
cipal outlet of the Niger. We can only reason upon
our few facts ; but it may be presumed that the greater
the angle at which a divergent leaves the parent stream,
the less likely is it to be the principal branch ; as the
current being necessarily more sluggish, obstructs its
own passage by a greater deposit of alluvium. We found,
in fact, such to be the case with the extreme divergents
right and left ; whereas the central, or Nun branch, pre
serves the main direction of the river, bisecting the
Delta, and carrying the alluvial deposit farthest out into
the sea, forming the salient point called Cape Formoso.
These important attributes, we contend, are sufficient
to entitle the Nun branch to be considered as the princi
pal outlet of the mighty Niger ; although the only access
to it from the estuary is by a shallow channel, not more
than fifty yards wide.
The current increased in strength as we ascended the
river, being about two miles per hour at the lower part
of the Delta, and three miles and a half at the con
fluence, while in a narrow part, abreast of Barraga, it
ran four miles. These averages were, however, taken
during an interval of twenty days, while the river was
rising and increasing in volume. In the dry season, the
current is very much less ; in some places, where the
stream is broad, it was not more than half a knot. The
difference between marks made at Iddah in the be-

374 HILLS AND MOUNTAINS.
ginning of September, 1841, and in the following July,
shewed a fall of the river of thirty feet. But these can
not be taken as the highest and the lowest periods. The
wind generally blows up the river, or from the south
west, especially during the Spring months. The weather
is then delightfully cool.
Above the mangrove swamps, the land gradually
emerges, with vegetation increasing in richness, to the
vertex of the Delta, where diluvial formation is first seen
in gentle hills, backed at Iddah — two hundred and twenty
miles — by greater elevations ; these terminate in abrupt
cliffs of sandstone, one hundred and fifty feet high, on
the left bank of the river. Above this are many isolated
mountains, of irregular forms, until we reach the con
fluence of the Chadda with the Niger, about two hundred
and seventy miles from the sea, where there is greater
continuity and height in the range, which, under the
vague name of Kong Mountains, were formerly supposed
to be the barrier which opposed the course of the Niger
to the Atlantic.
From this part commences the series of table eleva
tions, isolated in some parts, stretching up both sides
of the Niger as far as Rabbah, about four hundred and
thirty-three miles from the sea, on the left bank ; on
the right they are not seen so far. At this city some
undulating hills terminate in cliffs, similar to those at
Iddah. All the lower parts of the river are covered with dense
forests, except where partially cleared by the hand of
man ; but above the confluence, there is a great deal of.

Fold out

DIFFERENT SOVEREIGNTIES. 375
land naturally free from wood, much cultivated, and
looking like magnificent park scenery.
The following is the substance of what was obtained
from the Malam Sabah, and from other natives, respecting
the Chadda, who were frequently questioned ; but the diffi
culty of getting anything like a clear account from them is
beyond belief. It is necessary to cross-question in every
possible way; and when, after much trouble, there
appears a dawning of a clear and connected account,
some contradictory statement from another, or even the
same party, will throw the whole into confusion.
The chief next in power to the Attah of Eggarah is
the King of Fandah,* who is Jimmejeh, or Governor of
the Chadda ; and the King of Koto'n Karafi has the
same power over the Niger. Both are said to be subject
to the Saliki Baban, or great King, the Attah of Iddah.
The river Niger is called in the Eggarah language
Ujimmini Fu-fu, the ' white water ;' the Chadda,
Ujimmini Du-du, the ' dark water.' These cha
racteristics are applicable to the turbid state of the one,
and the clearness of the other. In the Nufi language,
they are called respectively Furodo and Furoji. In
the Haussa, the former is known as the Guli-ba'n
Kowara ; and at Sego, in the Bambarra country, where
Mungo Park first saw it, the natives named it Joliba.
All these are* probably generic terms ; it has, therefore,

* This city was visited by Mr. Laird and by Captain W. Allen
on the former Expedition.

376 NAMES OF THE NIGER.
been thought best to retain the generally received
appellation Niger.
Ma'Sabah gave the following distances of the places
on the Chadda, which he had visited : —
From the point of confluence,
to Immoshah, two days, on the right bank
(Bofo, or Assasin, is opposite.)
thence to Aketo one day, right bank
Bagana „ left bank
Amegedi „ ditto ditto
Cheruku or Karuko „ right.
This is near the principal town, Oruko, of which it
is the port. Akpeko one day right bank
Ambeddo „ left bank.
The Malam gave us the following distances of places,
from hearsay, not having visited them himself: —
From Amb&ddo
to Abushi, one day
thence to Akbah „ a large town, right bank
Afoketeh „ a large branch joins
here from the south-eastward. I tis broad, but not deep ;
twelve days up this branch, is a town, Kachina Ara.
The north-eastern branch, the dark, or clear water, is
deep, without rocks. Two days up this, is Akwara, the
port of the large market-town, Okari, which the Malam
informed us is the capital of the Kororofa nation, of
which the King's name is Anjuh : he is independent.
By another account, it is four days, in a canoe, from

SALT LAKE AT BISHI. 377
Fandah to Akpeko, the port or wharf of Doma, from
which it is distant ten hours. By land, from Fandah to
Doma, it is six days. From Akpeko to Bishi, in the
Apah country, three days. This, from the somewhat
agreement of the distance, must be the Abushi of the
Malam Sabah, though one gives two, and the other three
days. Salt is found and gathered near Bishi, at a salt lake»
or pool, two or three hours' ride in circumference. Its
depth is to the arm-pits. It hurts the skin : it has no
canoes. There are no hills in the neighbourhood, but
some in the distant Aw&h country. The Malam also
said, that two days from Amagedi, towards Aw&h,
which, however, does not agree in the distance, there is
a salt lake, which in the dry season is only midleg deep.
The Fandah people trade up the ' dark water.' They are
of the Birrah nation, as well as the natives of Koto'n
Karafi; the inhabitants of Toto and of Abajeh, are
Nufawa, or of the Nufi nation.
We believe there is a very large slave market at Bishi,
or at Okari, from which they used to be sent overland,
and not down the Chadda, to Bonny or old Calebar.
They are now conveyed overland to the markets on the
Niger, belonging to Iddah, thence by the river and
connecting creeks, to Lagos, &c.
At Fernando Po, a native of the Apah country, in
which Bishi is situated, though he did remember the
name of that town, told us that he came with a Kafilah,
of about three thousand persons, across the country to
Iddah ; and thence he was sent, again overland, through

378 TOWNS AND VILLAGES.
the eastern Ibu country to Bonny, where he was sold to
the Spaniards. He said his native country had a broad,
deep and very rapid river running through it — "No
canoes could stand on it:" — they traverse it on a bridge
made of bush-rope ; four " bars" are charged for the
passage of seven slaves ; the ropes are renewed every
month, and a man has charge of it, appointed by the
King : — The river is called Emmeleh, it is very rocky —
joins the Niger ; — the country has mountains higher
than those of Fernando Po ; there is a large rock with
caverns and water " decked over," where the natives, who
cannot make resistance, conceal themselves from the
Filatahs, and in other inaccessible fastnesses in the rocks,
which they ascend by ladders, and draw them up after
them. He called them forts. He said the principal
town in the Appah country is Paloh ; is walled and
staked ; — the houses similar to those of Iddah, but
larger ; — cotton and indigo are cultivated in abundance ;
— they make cloth; — they are pagans, and sacrifice
goats when people are sick. In Attam, the country
next to the westward of Appah, the same language
nearly as that of Iddah is spoken ; they come to the
Appah market at Pal6h ; he crossed the river, and then
came all the way on foot to Iddah, then by land to
Bonny ; there were three thousand slaves ; they passed
by many towns, as Manni, Bahal, Bitarrh, Venien, Poa,
Ikundu, Ikundu-manni ; he had forgotten the rest, as
he was a very young boy when captured, and the account
was somewhat vague, though he spoke very good English.
The banks of the Niger are populous, with the

NATIONS. 379
exception of the neighbourhood of the mangrove
swamps; but wherever man has been able to get
a firm footing, he has cleared away a patch for cultiva
tion, and built his hut. This is found to increase
rapidly as we ascend. Large villages, towns, and even
populous cities, are met with. On the banks of the
Chadda, on the contrary, the population is very thin, and
in a low state, with the exception of the kingdom of
Fandah. A very small portion of its course, only is
known, and that has been almost depopulated by the
frequent slave-catching expeditions. The poor natives
were in the greatest alarm at Lander's visit, especially
when the name of our friend Abokko, the chief of Adda
Mugu was mentioned, as he had frequently attacked
their villages. The country on both sides, nevertheless, is
capable of supporting prodigious numbers ; the luxuriance
of the vegetation is beyond belief, and the palm-tree,
which would form a ground-work for national wealth
and prosperity, grows in the greatest abundance.
In the short distance from the sea to Rabbah, about
four hundred and thirty-three miles, there are many
distinct nations inhabiting the banks of the Niger. The
only name we learned of those in the Delta, was the Oru,,
which is probably much subdivided. Above this is the
widely-spread Ibu race, of which our friend Obi rules
only the small part dwelling on the banks. The Shabby
or Eggarah succeeds, and extends to the confluence, the
capital of which is Iddah, and on the opposite bank
is the Benin nation. Above this, on the right bank of
the Niger, is the Kakanda, an abject race, the constant

380

NUFI PEOPLE.

prey of the slave-catcher. Their chief town, Buddu, has
frequently been burned by the Filatahs in their predatory
excursions. Higher up, is the flourishing town of Egga,
the highest point to which the last Expedition ascended,
about three hundred and thirty miles from the sea.
It has but a small territory. The large country of
Yarriba is above and behind it.
On the left bank, above the confluence, is the small
territory of Kattam-Karrafi. To the eastward of it, the
large city of Toto, and the kingdom and populous city
of Fandah. To the north-west, is the large and once
flourishing kingdom of Nufi; inhabited by the most
enterprising race of the interior. They are frank, good-
humoured, and very faithful. The long-continuance of
civil wars which have distracted their country, and
the frequent invasions of the Filatahs, have scattered
them among all the surrounding nations, where they
are the most active manufacturers and merchants. They
are said never to be cast down by reverses of fortune, but
to retain their industrious habits and cheerfulness of
disposition under all circumstances. The women are
chiefly employed in the petty retail trade about the
country. If a Kafilah, to which a Nufi woman is
attached, be pursued, she will rather be captured with
the goods entrusted to her, than throw them away to aid
her escape.
Feuds in the' royal family of Nufi have enabled the
Filatahs, or as they are differently called, Filani, Fellahs,
or Fulahs, to seize on a large portion of this kingdom ;
and they have settled at Rabbah, after having driven out

JUDICIAL USAGES. 381
the inhabitants, and burned the former town of the same
name. From being the oppressed, the Filani have
become the oppressors of all the surrounding nations,
having carried their depredations as far as the confluence,
and threatened the Great King himself — the Saliki-
baban, or Attah of Iddah — to whom the chiefs of
Fandah, Kattam-Karafi and Buddu acknowledge alle
giance, by paying him a small tribute.
We are not sufficiently acquainted with the institu
tions, to be able to say positively what is the degree
of power possessed by the chiefs. They all declared it
to be despotic ; but we had some reason to believe that
it is held in very wholesome check by councils of the
elders, and the government seems to be mild. The
Mahomedans take, of course, the Koran for their guide.
Among the Pagans, we may surmise that established
usages have the place of written laws. We saw on
a former occasion justice administered by the King
at the gate of his palace, in open court at Fendah ; and
all belonging to the late Expedition will remember
the dignified deportment of Lobo, the chief judge
of Iddah. There are some observances relative to pre
rogative, which are strictly enforced; such as the
privilege claimed by the great chiefs of preemption
in trade, the exclusive use of certain articles — as dresses
of a particular colour, umbrellas, &c. If any inferior
chief, or private person, should presume to make use of
these appurtenances to royalty, he would be severely
fined, and in default of payment, sold as a slave. The
late Attah of Iddah appeared to have been the most

382 SPREAD OF MAHOMED ANISM.
sanguinary of the sovereign chiefs. Decapitation,
poison, and mutilation, were said to be frequent
punishments inflicted by him ; sometimes wantonly
on his slaves,* and frequently from superstitious
motives, as he believed the spirit of the river to be
propitiated by human sacrifices. Lander succeeded in
making him promise to relinquish this horrible practice,
but we fear, only for a time, as Oldfield mentions his
having returned to it. However, deprivation of liberty
is the most prevalent in judicial cases ; and whatever may
be the amount of guilt, the judge, being the gainer,
may be tempted to rejoice in the increase of crime, since
to him it is a source of revenue.
In many towns, and especially at Rabbah, are schools
pretty well attended, but as none of the languages of
these countries are written, the children are taught to
read the Koran, to write it on sand, and to repeat a
few Arabic prayers, which is the total amount of their
learning, and he who can recite the most and the
loudest in a breath, is the aptest scholar.
To say precisely what are the ideas of religion enter
tained by those natives who are without the pale of
Mahomedanism, would be impossible. The pagans
have very ill-defined ideas on the subject, but believe in
a Supreme Being. Fetichism universally prevails, and
they think that " stocks and stones" are deputed to care
for, or mar the welfare of man. They have unbounded

* He is stated to have cut off the eyelids of those who guarded his
treasure, in order to make them more watchful.

INFLUENCE OF THE MALEMS. 383
faith in charms — Magoni — which they believe can
" call up spirits from the vasty deep ;" and some
persons pretend to have the power of transforming
themselves to any shape they choose. In fact, there is
nothing too extravagant to find credence among the
poor untutored natives.
Mahomedanism has made rapid strides in Sudan
during the present century, and if the Filatahs continue
their victorious career, they will easily engraft their
religion on the vague creed of the Pagans ; but,
while readily adopting that of their conquerors, they will
still cling to the superstitions of their fathers ; which
the Filatahs themselves mingle with the imperfectly
understood doctrines of the Prophet. The out-posts
have made considerable advance in preparing the way
for a general conversion since, the Malems, or learned
men, who, generally have no other claim to the title
than the being able to mumble a prayer or a passage from
the Koran, are much venerated everywhere ; their
advice is taken on all occasions, and they already lead
the minds of the people. It might be supposed
that this pliability would render the diffusion of Chris
tianity very easy. It may, in some degree, have
prepared the way to a better conversion, by presenting
a more sublime idea than the Fetichism can afford ; but,
it is to be feared, that the Mahomedanism which is
practised, consisting merely in observances, enacted
without any exertion of the mind, will render it more dif
ficult to make them comprehend the beautiful morality
and the refined dogmas of our religion. At all

384

ARCHITECTURE.

reason

places below Rabbah, however, we had every
to believe that Missionaries would be joyfully received.
Idols are to be met with everywhere, but the only places
of public worship which we saw in 1833, were the mos
ques or temples at Fandah and at Rabbah, where the
Faithful appeared very assiduous in their devotions.
The Malems always carry beads, which they count
devoutly, and gain great credit for sanctity among the
people. When these reverend doctors salute one
another, they do it with a mysterious air, and there
seems to be a sort of freemasonry in their manner of
shaking hands. They generally gain a good livelihood
by writing charms ; as a rich man considers his wealth
well-employed in procuring abundance of these, although
he believes that any one is sufficient for the purpose of
shielding him from harm.
It is difficult, with our prejudices in favour of comfort
and beauty, to estimate the principles of fitness by which
the architects of Africa are governed. From the
unvarying style of the buildings, to which the lapse of
ages has probably brought no improvement, one might
imagine that they have been guided solely by a better
kind of animal instinct, and that they have never
departed from the lesson first taught them by nature.
The houses are totally devoid of everything which we
look for in a dwelling, with the exception of shelter from
sun and rain. There is a decided difference between
those of the inhabitants of the Delta and of the
interior. The former are invariably oblong, with gable
ends, built of stakes, filled in with mud, and thatched ;

ARRANGEMENT OF DWELLINGS. 385
usually occupying two, and sometimes three sides of
a court, the other being closed by a palisade with a
gate, and adorned by the shady and graceful banana and
cocoa-nut. Some of these are neat, but they are generally
small and huddled together, as if ground rent were high.
In the interior, that is to say, above the Delta, and
beginning at Adda-Mugu, the huts are all circular, and
although small, the occupant does not stint him
self in number, as many are comprised in one
establishment. The roof is constructed on the ground, of
the stout, light and tapering ribs of the palm-branch ;
the thatch, neatly woven like a fringe with grass, is
wound round it, beginning, of course, at the bottom ;
the whole is then placed and secured on the circular
mud wall. There is but little difference in any, whether
in a capital city or a village — the residences of great
chiefs or of the poorest peasant differ merely in the
amount of huts composing the establishment, which
always depends on the number of wives possessed by the
occupier. They are all so nearly alike, that the description
of one with which we were acquainted — that of a Dilal
or broker — will give a very fair idea of the general
domestic economy.
This dwelling was divided into three courts, of
irregular form and size; apparently thrown together
without any plan, being merely enclosures made by
joinmg with a low wall the circular huts, which seem
dropped by accident. Each contains usually but one
room — sometimes, however, a small space is partitioned
vol. i. c c

386

DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

off for a store or lumber closet — they are very rarely of
two stories. A few have flat ceilings, of the ribs of
palm-branches laid diagonally, but they are mostly open
to the apex of the high conical thatched roof. The
floor is of mud, sometimes tessellated with broken
pieces of earthenware jars, more frequently, however,
of the rough uneven ground. The only admission of
light and air is by a small doorway, with the upper
part so low, and the threshold so high, that a stranger
is very likely to pay his respects to the " Penates" by
breaking his head and his shins at the same time.
Some huts have two of these inconvenient apertures,
but when such is the case, it is for the purpose of com
munication from one court to another. Of this kind
is invariably the outer or entrance-hut ; in the Haussa
language, the " Zauli" An individual hut is called a
" Dai'ki," an assemblage of them, forming one dwelling,
" Giddah." They are only used for sleeping and cooking
in when the weather is bad, for grinding corn, store
houses of grain, &c. The proprietors always eat in the
open air. Some have verandahs — formed by the pro
jecting thatch — under which the master of the house
luxuriates with his friends, but while they send forth
volumes of smoke, they do not appear to have met
for the interchange of ideas.
The huts are built of roundish lumps of sun-dried clay,
covered with mud, coloured sometimes with indigo, and
ornamented round the entrance with circles and zigzags,
stamped in the soft mud. When there is a door, it is
carved in the same elaborate manner, sometimes with a

DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 387
sketch of a crocodile; the fastening is a bolt and a
rude padlock. These, however, are rarely required.
We passed on one occasion through the large and
populous city of Rabbah at midnight without meeting
a single individual, and every house appeared to be
open. There is something like luxury in the clean-
swept courts, tessellated with broken pottery: some
pieces of a more showy kind adorn the thresholds.
This was eminently the case with the ' Giddah,' of
Mistress Barijih; a respectable elderly spinster, with
whom we had engaged lodgings at Fandah ; but the
King commanded her not to receive us, as he claimed
the exclusive privilege of making us comfortable or
uncomfortable, and unfortunately his tastes had a
tendency to the latter. Barijih's house was a perfect
labyrinth of clean shady courts and huts, with jars of
deliciously cool water; although there were no other
inmates than herself and an old woman, her servant.
Around the cookery corner are calabashes and earthen
pots of various forms, and machines for pounding the
red wood with which they adorn or medicate themselves.
Sheep, goats and fowls enjoy, and seem to claim,
the full benefit of the premises. The peculiar domicile
of the poultry is under the granary hut, which is always
raised considerably from the ground, for the purpose of
ventilation, and an aperture left for the brood, as a ready
refuge from the numerous hawks which are conti
nually sailing about. Many large Fulvous vultures are
commonly seen perched on the apex of the conical roofs,
c c 2

388

CORN MILLS.

which are terminated by a bundle of sticks, apparently put
in the thatch for their accommodation. They remain in
patient contemplation of what passes in the court below,
and very soon rid it of any offal that may be thrown about.
Corn is ground by the women in a hut appro
priated solely to this purpose, the apparatus consists
merely of two pieces of stone, a " slab and muller :"
having undergone the process of trituration by a
succession of these stones of different texture, it is
converted into fine flour, which, however, retains much
of the grit.
The apparatus used for cooking is very simple. Three
broken jars are placed upside down, to support the vessel
containing the viands, and the fire is made between them.
Very little skill, however, is required in the preparation of
food, their principal subsistence being on yams, roasted
Indian-corn, tuah — which is a sort of pudding, made
of the grain, Dauer or Ghiro — and rice ; which they
boil to perfection. Yams are very fine, and are eaten
roasted, or pounded until they become like a stiff
dough, this is called " Fofo," and is an excellent way of
preparing them; towards the latter end of the dry
season this admirable vegetable becomes scarce, and
small dried chips of it are sold in the market very
dear. Little cakes are carried about by young girls,
made of the flour of Dauer, or of Indian-corn, mixed
with honey and abundance of pepper, rolled up in balls,
or in long pieces, and half-boiled ; but they are some
times fried with palm-oil. Rarely they indulge them
selves with a " hot chop" — a stew of meat or fish, with

FISHES.

389

the gravy highly seasoned and enriched by a great
quantity of red pepper and palm-oil.
A favourite mess of the Haussa people, who, if Ma-
homedans, do not drink beer, is made from the flour
of Indian corn, into a sort of hasty pudding or
" sowens." It is called " Koko," and is both meat and
drink to them ; a small calabash full, which costs about
the twentieth part of a penny, with the addition of a
piece of dried yam, will frequently furnish a meal,
especially for the women. Men never eat with their
wives, and kings cannot be seen at their refections by
subjects ; being supposed probably to subsist on things
less gross than those which will nourish common flesh
and blood. The natives are much employed in fishing.
Some of their methods of proceeding have been alluded
to (page 200), but we can unfortunately add little
to this part of Natural History, as we could procure
few of the fishes in a raw state. The accompanying cut

390

BEVERAGE.

is from sketches made by Captain W. Allen on
the former Expedition : they were recognised by Pro
fessor Agassiz, who pronounced them to be very interest
ing, never having been before found in the rivers of
Western Africa. The largest is of the genus Lates,
the specimen had been speared by one of the natives ;
it weighed seventy pounds ; was four feet four inches in
length, and seventeen inches in the broadest part. It is
very fine and delicate in its flavour. The next is of
the genus Sudis, twenty-seven inches in length, called
by the natives at the confluence "Kuanta'n Kaswa,"
" Sleep in the Market," because it keeps longer fresh
than any other of the finny tribe : nothing can exceed
the flavour of this fish. The third genus, Mormyrus,
is twenty-two inches long, and is rather indifferent eating.
The Pagans drink a great deal of palm-wine and beer,
and consider that which is made from the corn, Ghiro,
(Milium) , as the most delicate in its flavour, but we pre
ferred the brown beer made from Dauer (a Sorghum),
particularly if drunk on the second day, as they have
no substitute for hops. They have also an intoxicating
liquor called Bam. The Musselmen profess to follow the
injunctions of the prophet, and abstain from beer and bam;
they have a great contempt for such as use these beve
rages, but they cannot be expected to conform to the law
in respect of our wines and spirits, since they never had an
opportunity of knowing what the Koran means by them,
until we opened their understanding, and still they are
slow to believe that they transgress in drinking copiously

SALUTATIONS. 39 1
whenever they can get rum. At the sea-side, King
Boy and his royal relatives would swallow vast quantities
of it undiluted, but as we* advanced in the interior,
more unsophisticated palates were found, and it would
gradually bear more water, until moderately strong grog
had a very potent effect.
Nothing can be more unjust than our assumption
that the natives of Africa are devoid of civilization. It
is true that the inhabitants of many parts of the coast,
and principally at the mouths of large rivers, where
they havehad, proh pudor, most intercourse with the
whites, are indeed, deserving the name of savages.
With these and the re-captured slaves only of the
interior, who are mostly of the lowest classes, or have
been enslaved very young, we have been hitherto
acquainted. It is, however, very different the farther
we go into the interior, where a great degree of
politeness is found ; all are particularly punctilious in
salutations and greetings, which they seem never to be
tired of repeating. Near the coast, the common
expression used in saluting was " 'n-doh," repeated many
times, accompanied by a peculiar snap of the fingers.
After leaving the Delta, polite visitors appear to try
which can continue the longest saying the Haussa word
" Sinuh," " prosperity ;" or " Koni lathia," " how is your
health ?" or, " Barkah," " a blessing," &c. At the same

* This was on the First Expedition. In that of 1841, no spirits
were given to the natives.

392

SALUTATIONS.

time touching the others' hands, and then placing their
own on the head, nose, or heart. As a mark of great
respect, men prostrate themselves, strike their heads
against the ground, " Bugu di Kai," and cover them
repeatedly with sand ; or at all events they go through
the motions of doing so. Women, on perceiving their
friends, kneel immediately, and pretend to pour sand
alternately over each arm. They continue the ceremony
for a considerable time before they rise and approach, in
order to hold " converse sweet." We have been much
amused at seeing two ladies in the market-place
saluting at a distance in this manner, during several
minutes, looking like two sporting dogs making a point,
they did not move their faces, but cast their eyes round
now and then to see if the other showed symptoms of
rising. Every one bends the knee slightly in passing a
superior, and if there be but little room, permission to
pass is always asked. On taking leave, they say, " Gai
di Giddah," " peace or welfare to the house." Slaves
salute their masters the first thing in the morning
prostrate before them, and saying all the complimentary
things they can think of. In accosting us, they usually
said, " Turawa," or " Baturi," " white man." Sometimes
they called us " Baba, master," or " Malam doctor."
In the treatment of their women, notwithstanding
this character for urbanity, the Africans approach
much nearer to savages, since they reduce them to the
condition of slaves. A Filatah would even show more
grief for the loss of a favourite slave, or of his horse

DIVERSITY OF LANGUAGES. 393
than of one of his wives, unless she were the favourite
for the time being. A beneficial change in this, must be
among the first that can be hoped for, in the amelioration
of the social system.
Every one who has visited Africa, must have been
astonished at the number of languages to be met with.
We at first thought, from the facility with which the
pilots understood the natives everywhere, that there
was not much difference from the mouth of the river to
the confluence, but that possibly every town might have
its dialect, differing slightly from the parent tongue.
This, however, was found not to be the case, as great
readiness of communication is acquired in constant at
tendance at the markets, where the confusion of tongues
might vie with Babel itself. Africans have a great
talent for learning languages, at least those of their
neighbours. Al Hadgi, our pilot, could speak fluently
nine or ten ; and we had a little boy, not more than
fourteen years of age, who could interpret from four
or five. Although they may be very different as to
words, the acquirement of several of them by the
natives is rendered easy by the. circumstance of the great
similarity of idiom ; and they are all, perhaps, equally
poor, which presents a great obstacle to their learning
our languages, as well as to our proficiency, or rather,
we should say, to our first advances in theirs.
The Haussa language, which is the general means of
intercourse, is sweet and flowing, abounding in vowels,
and has few or no harsh sounds or gutturals ; like all

394

NATIVE DRESSES.

the others, however, of this part of Africa, it is very
poor. For instance, the word " dushi" signifies a
mountain, a rock, stone, gun-flint, bead, &c. On the
other hand, we may say that there is no want of volu
bility, and, on some occasions, there appeared to be great
powers of oratory displayed. Our acquaintance with
this language was too limited to enable us to detect
inflexions, cases, genders, &c, and the only instance of
grammatical construction that we can speak positively
to, is the use of the particle 'n to show the possessive
case, or the relation of one thing to another, as
"Saliki-'n bekki-'n ruah." The king of the dark
water. The original dress on the coast was simply a " grass
cloth," worn like a kilt. This has given place to cotton
or silk pocket handkerchiefs, for the same purpose;
while those who can afford it, indulge in the splendour
of a striped cotton shirt and worsted cap.
Beyond the Delta, the people are better clothed in
the native costume ; European articles of dress being
rare. Though the very poor have merely a small
piece of cotton cloth round the waist, or even skins,
especially on the borders of the Chadda, those in
better circumstances, add a piece of cotton, called in
Haussa " Zani," nearly three yards long and a yard and
a half wide, of native manufacture, either blue, white,
or striped, with sometimes a little red, or chequered. It
is worn in a great variety of ways, but is always
graceful. We saw many men who had draped them-

THE RIGAH. 395
selves like the finest statues of antiquity. The rich
wear a veiy full dress, called in the Haussa language,
"Rigah," or shirt; also "Tobo, Toba, Toga or
Itoga." It is made like a surplice, with very large
open sleeves, the arm-hole, in fact, reaches from the
shoulder to within two inches of the bottom of the
dress. The common tobes are white, blue, or chequered ;
the latter is called "Rigah'n Zabbo," fr@*m its being
speckled like a guinea-fowl. The best ,kjnd have some
times a green or red silk stripe. On particular
occasions, the richest people and kings wear silk tobes,
which are brought by the Arabs across the Desert.
Cotton tobes vary in price from ten to sixty, and
even a hundred thousand cowrieV-&£S£with a red
silk stripe are the dearest. All are worked or embroi
dered in front with silk or cotton. When a blue tobe
is worn, a white one is generally put on beneath it, as
the indigo, not being well fixed, comes off and soils
the skin. They are never washed, but are worn until
they become both of a colour, and drop off in rags.
Turkish trowsers, a scarlet cap, and sandals, complete
the dress of a gentleman of the first rank and fashion.
The Filatahs, when riding, wear boots. Women of
all classes dress nearly alike, that is with a country cloth
or zani round the waist, and another over or under
the shoulders, according to the state of the weather or
the lady's taste. A piece of cotton is also neatly folded
round the head. They plait their woolly hair in a
variety of curious forms, close to the head, and plaster

396 ANKLETS OF IVORY.
it thickly with indigo. Those ladies, who from their
rank in the domestic circle, are exempt from hard
work, dye their hands and feet with henna, and tinge
their eyelids with antimony. The men either shave
the head entirely, and expose their shining scalps to
the sun, or they cut and carve it in a curious
fashion. Youth of both sexes, with the exception
of Filatah children, are entirely without clothing till
the age of puberty. Young girls wear a string of
beads or cowries round their loins, but their innate
modesty is as manifest as their persons.
Above Ibu, the anklets of ivory are not in fashion,
but of copper, ornamented with brass, and bracelets of
the same are much in vogue. Pieces of coral are
frequently stuck in the ears, and the great men wear
thin circular pieces of ivory, about the size of a dollar,
in each ear. Amulets, " magoni," are in great request,
and worn in profusion by those who can afford to pay the
priest for writing them. They are supposed to be verses
of the Koran, sewn up in leather, variously ornamented,
and are not only believed to be preservatives against
all kinds of danger, but to be the means of procuring
every gratification that the wearer can desire. Although
they must be continually disappointed, it is surprising
they are not tired of waiting for the proofs of their
virtues. The fruition is always in expectancy.
Women are commonly employed in the petty retail
trade about the country ; they also do a great deal of
hard work, especially in the cultivation of the land.

YAM COUNTRY. 397
Agriculture is almost wholly neglected at the sea-coast,
for which, indeed, the swampy nature of the land is a
sufficient excuse. The Brass people consequently
depend on the trade with Ibu for a supply of yams.
In ascending from the mouth of the river, small patches
of cleared bank appear near the villages for the
growth of plantain ; they are surrounded by an impene
trable forest where the palm-trees grow in amazing
numbers. The cocoa-nut tree is found only near
villages, which proves them not to be indigenous,
according to Dr. Vogel. At Egab6h and Ibu, yams are
raised in great quantities; the former is called, par
excellence, the yam country. No corn is produced
in these parts, indeed, there is no room for it. From
Iddah towards the interior, agriculture is much more
actively carried on. Cotton, of short staple, is grown
in limited quantity, for their own consumption; also
tobacco of very mild quality, and indigo of a superior
kind. In articles for food, excellent yams, in great abun
dance, maize, rice, and several other kinds of corn called
Dauer, (Sorghum), Ghiro, (Milium), and Atchah, the
latter, called Teff in Abyssinia, is a small grain, and makes
delicious puddings. There are two qualities of rice, one
coarse and red, the other very small and white. The
only implements of husbandry were a hoe and a sort of
pick-axe. In the beginning of the wet season, the hills
echo to the cheerful song and laugh of the cultivators
of the soil. The song, indeed, occupies much more time

398 LOVE OF TRAFFIC.
than work, as they leave off after two or three strokes
to continue it. No people seem happier, yet they
are nearly all slaves. Domestic slavery, however,
is as different as possible from our horrible ideas of
that state, or rather from the state to which the wants
of civilization have brought it. In their native land
it is not more irksome than servitude in ours.
The strongest characteristic of the inhabitants of the
interior of Africa is the love of traffic ; it is indeed the
ruling passion, which, if rightly developed, may become
the instrument for raising them in the scale of nations.
Every town has a market, generally once in four
days; but the principal feature is in the large fairs
held at different points on the river, about once a fort
night, for what may be called their foreign trade, or
intercourse with neighbouring nations. They are pro
fessedly held sacred, whatever wars may be in the
land; and cheering, indeed, to humanity would it be
— in this hot-bed of violence and rapine, where every
man's hand is raised against his fellow, and where every
one tries to enslave his neighbour — to know the
existence of such a treve-dieu, devoted to the exercise of
peaceful commercial intercourse. But they have had
their neutrality frequently invaded by the avarice and
tyranny of neighbouring princes, against whose cupi
dity or caprice there is no guarantee. The perti
nacity with which, notwithstanding these violations, the
traders return, is a striking proof of the deeply-rooted

DILATORY TRADERS. 399
propensity. With this we might work wonders ; but
the habits and practices of the natives are so different to
our method of dealing, that it is useless to expect rapid
results and advantages. The principal difference
between the European and the African merchant would
be, not so much in the value of their commodities, for
that would find its level, but in the estimate of time, of
which the Negro has no conception. The disposal of a
small cargo of merchandise from England, for which the
speculator would expect immediate return, would, accord
ing to the present tardy method of the country, occupy
the brokers for years. As much time is consumed, and
as many words are wasted, in the purchase of a few
yams or a fowl, as in that of a large elephant's tooth.
Frequently when the bargain appears to be concluded,
the " dilals" will change their minds, both as to the price,
and the nature of the goods they wish to take in
exchange : never appearing to have determined
the amount of profit with which they will be satisfied.
As, however, the goods offered were totally new, they
could not form a just estimate of their value. The
" dilal," or broker, always asked, in the first instance,
more than treble the value of his commodities, and ex
pected our traders would do the same. It was, perhaps,
owing to the repugnance which Lander had to demanding
more than he intended to take, that many of the goods
became deteriorated in the estimation of the native mer
chants. They think it presumption of the seller if he

400 DILALS, OR BROKERS.
expect to get the price put on his goods, however fair
and reasonable it may be. This makes it very difficult
for an Englishman to trade with the native broker. For
instance, one thousand cowries were asked for some
beautiful coronation medals, and they were readily
bought up at Rabbah, on the supposition that they were
silver ; but, when on inquiring from Mr. Lander, they
found they were not, they brought them, requesting
him to take them back, which he, being desirous to
establish a credit for honourable dealing, consented to
do ; and it is a curious fact, that, not being able to repay
them at the time in cowries, he gave promissory notes,
merely I. O. U., with his signature, which were
redeemed when Lander had obtained cowries by the' sale
of other goods. If three or four thousand had been
demanded for these medals, in the first instance, they
would have been more sought after ; as it was, nobody
would have them at any price, and they expected to get
silver dollars for about a shilling.
As the object of our last visit to Africa was not com
mercial, we may be excused if we do not give a very
business-like account of the resources of the country,
though it will perhaps be expected, while treating of the
trading propensities of the natives, that some mention
should be made of the principal articles which were
brought for sale, with the prices usually paid for them,
in cowries.
First in the estimation of the native trader — paying

PRICE OF SLAVES. 401
tribute in inverse ratio to the dignity of their fellow-
creatures — are the unfortunates doomed to perpetual
slavery ; and although, happily, with us man is not now
recognised as a legitimate object for barter, it will perhaps
be interesting to know what value is set upon him in the
land of his fathers, where he has ceased, as it were, to be
a rational being, and has become a thing to be bought.
A young female slave would fetch from sixty to
one hundred and twenty thousand cowries. She must,
however, to command the highest price, be beautiful ;
in which respect, however, European and African taste
is somewhat different. A fine charger may command
about the same price.* A strong well-grown young man
is worth from thirty to fifty thousand cowries. A boy,
pony, ox for burthen, a donkey, or common working
slave from ten to thirty thousand.
Although no gold was brought to us for sale, it is
perhaps in abundance in the interior, and within the
regions rendered accessible by the Rivers Kwares and
Tchadda. According to Idrisi, Wangara was one of the
most celebrated countries for this metal.
The most valuable article now for legitimate trade is
ivory. This was bought at the Confluence, one thousand to
one thousand five hundred cowries per pound. A higher
price was put upon it at Iddah, being nearer to the sea-

* These articles, if prime, are generally disposed of by private con
tract at the houses of the merchants, and are not exposed to the
indignity of the market.
VOL. I. D D

402 PRICE OF IVORY.
coast, where the palm-oil captains usually gave treble
that sum. At Rabbah it could be bought at five hun
dred cowries ; but there was little to be had, and the
King did not appear much disposed to trade, unless he
had it all in his own hands. These prices were, of
course, for large and good teeth; scrivelloes could be
had for about half.
Indigo of a very superior quality, but in a very dirty
state, was brought in abundance at Egga, made up in
balls a httle larger than one's fist, at the rate of about
five cowries each, or about one hundred and eighty for a
shilling. The dye obtained from it is of a very rich
coppery hue, but the natives do not know how to fix it.
Although in its present state, it is hardly worth the
carriage, yet by proper care it might become a valuable
article of commerce.
Tobacco, of a very mild and agreeable flavour, is sold
at about a halfpenny per pound. The leaves when
dried are plaited, and made up in coils, weighing from
six to ten pounds. It is grown in very great quantities.
Provisions were cheap enough when we could get
them. A small piece of scarlet cloth, which cost, invoice
price, eighteen pence, would furnish more than enough
for one day's consumption for ten men.
A small bullock cost from seven to fifteen thousand
cowries. A milch goat could seldom be had for less
than two thousand. A sheep or goat from one to two
thousand; the latter are more abundant and cheaper
than sheep, although not remarkable for fatness. The

PROVISIONS. 403
Haussa sheep are immense animals, with very long
legs. They, of course, are clothed with hair instead
of wool; the rams have long shaggy manes, and
are sometimes very large ; they cost from six thou
sand to ten thousand cowries each. Fowls, one hundred
or one hundred and fifty each. Ducks are very fine,
like the muscovy breed, three or four hundred each ;
they come from Yarriba, as do also the geese and
turkies, and are called Kasa-n- Yarriba, or Yarriba fowls ;
they are scarce.
Eggs cost about five cowries each; but this is a
nominal price, as they are rarely to be had good.
Yams vary in price, according to the time of year ; in
the season, however, they are from eight to ten pounds
for one hundred cowries. Rice, one pound for fifty
cowries. Beer, a jar containing two or three gallons,
one hundred cowries.*
Fruit was not brought to us frequently. We saw,
indeed, only bananas, plantains, a few oranges, limes,
and pine-apples. Bananas were in the greatest
abundance ; pine-apples were only brought during a
fortnight in May, and we could never afterwards procure
any : they were extremely fine.
These, with earthenware jars, calabashes, cotton

* These are the prices paid in 1833, when we were under the dis
pleasure of the Attah. The favour of his successor enabled Mr. Carr
to establish a much lower tariff. See page 130.
D D 2

404 COPPER-SMITHS.
cloths, and grass mats of native manufacture, were the
principal things brought to the markets.
The mountains about the Confluence are highly fer
ruginous. At Sterling Hill, the peroxide of iron occurs
in great abundance, in the form of pea-iron ore, of a very
beautiful character. The natives, however, do not know
how to profit by it.
Copper is found in Haussa, but where, we could not
learn. At Fandah there were coppersmiths, who smelt
it. We saw a great deal of dross lying about, but we
sought in vain the apparatus or the mineral in its original
state. Whether the manufacturer suspected us of some
sinister intention of depriving him of it by the magical
power they all believed us to possess, or that he did not
understand our imperfectly interpreted wishes, we cannot
say ; but after leading us to different huts, we only saw
a quantity of dross, and the sheet copper of which he
was making bowls of pipes.
Trona, which is a kind of alkali, is brought from
Haussa. Salt, very bad and dirty, is said to come from
Bishi. The above catalogue is not very tempting to the
European merchant ; but it must be remembered that it
comprises merely the articles in demand among them
selves, with the exception of slaves and ivory, which are
for the foreign market. It is, however, sufficient to
know, that it is a fertile country, situate in a tropical
climate, to be certain that it has immense natural pro-

VALUABLE TREES. 405
ductions, which are essential to our manufactures and
commerce. The immense primeval forests furnish inexhaustible
treasures. In addition to the palm-tree, magnificent
timber for ship-building, and other purposes, in great
variety; gums, shea butter, many kinds of wood for
dying, peppers, nuts of different kinds, &c. ; besides the
animated tenants of the woods, which would furnish
ivory, skins, feathers, bees' wax, &c. These are a few of
the spontaneous productions; besides which, a vast
quantity of cleared land would be available for
increased cultivation of coffee, sugar-cane, indigo,
tobacco, cotton, &c.
We will enumerate some of the principal goods offered
by Lander for sale, in the commercial expedition of
1832-3. Arms and ammunition of every kind were eagerly
sought after; but, as our object is to encourage their
peaceable habits, these should not be presented to them.
They would also freely take in barter, woollen cloths,
scarlet, green, and yellow ; Manchester printed cottons,
beads of various kinds, looking-glasses, cutlery, paper,
salt, &c.
Of these the following would generally bear a good
per centage, but others would hardly realize the cost
price : —
Scarlet cloth could be sold at from three to four hun
dred per cent, invoice price.
Green cloth one or two hundred per cent.

406 ENGLISH GOODS.
Yellow cloth, rather more.
Cotton velvets, good profit but varying.
Looking-glasses, small, one hundred and fifty per cent.
Large ones were not so profitable.
Red beads varied in price.
Blue ditto, sold badly.
The most uncertain were the Manchester goods ;
sometimes they were bought very freely, while at others
they were little disposed to have them. However, as
soon as they found there were but few left, they rose
rapidly in estimation. As they manufacture good
cottons themselves, page 322, of simple blue and white,
the principal attraction in ours was the gay colours.
The greatest profit was on salt ; we cannot say at
what per centage, but it was very great. It is, indeed,
the article which must bring the most sure return, as it
is for immediate consumption, and the natives have no
other means of supply than that from Bishi, which
is dear and bad ; so that they ate our beautiful white
salt like sugar.
In general it may be said, that the most inferior
goods were sold at the greatest profit, which dimi
nished in proportion to the increase of the cost
price; so that good and expensive articles found
no sale whatever, although they admired them ex
cessively when offered as presents. Very erroneous
expectations had been formed of the quantity and
price of ivory; but there is no doubt more than
treble the quantity could have been had if, instead

PROFIT — COWRIES PREFERRED. 407
of limiting the price, all had been bought at the market-
price, which, perhaps, would not have much exceeded
for the finest teeth eighteen pence per pound. As it
was, these were almost invariably taken away when
the dilals found that they could not get their price.
Although they were very much disposed to barter,
cowries were almost preferred as a medium ; that is,
the goods on either side were first turned into cowries.
Here, then, we have an immense and highly produc
tive country, at no great distance from our shores, and
which even may be said to diminish daily by the improve
ments in steam navigation. The nations inhabiting this
valuable region are already desirous of being supplied
with our manufactures, a great assortment of which
they became acquainted with by the commercial expedi
tion of 1832. Experience indeed shewed that a large
portion was not suited to the market ; since the Negroes,
having naturally but very few wants, are slow to believe
that they require articles of which as yet they cannot
comprehend the utility ; but these would increase with
improved intercourse.
If the only interchangeable commodities were salt
and palm-oil, a profitable trade might be extended to
the interior; and yet with such vast resources and
capabilities on both sides, the exports from the greatest
commercial country in the world, which is seeking an
outlet on all sides for its manufactures is less than half
a million sterling !

APPENDIX.

VICTORIA REG.
Victoria, by the grace of God, of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, Queen, Defender of the
Faith, to our trusty and well-beloved Henry Dundas
Trotter, Esquire, Captain in our Royal Navy, William
Allen and Bird Allen, Esquires, Commanders in our
Royal Navy, and William Cook, Esquire, greeting. We,
reposing especial Trust and Confidence in your Loyalty,
Integrity, and Ability, do, by these presents, constitute
and appoint you and each of you to be our Commis
sioners to proceed to Africa, and there to make and
conclude with the Chief Rulers on the western coast
thereof, and in the River Niger, such arrangements or
agreements as you shall be empowered by Us, or by
One of our Principal Secretaries of State on Our behalf,
to propose to the said Chiefs, to the end of obtaining
their concurrence in the suppression of the Traffic in
Slaves, and in the establishment of lawful Commerce
between our Subjects and the Natives of the countries
aforesaid. And We do hereby require all our Officers,
Ministers, and loving Subjects, to be aiding and assisting

4 1 2 APPENDIX.
to you, and each of you, in the execution of this Our
Commission. Given at Our Court at Windsor, the Fifteenth day
of September, One thousand eight hundred and
forty, in the Fourth Year of Our Reign.
By Her Majesty's Command,

Captain Henry Dundas Trotter,
Commander William Allen, Com
mander Bird Allen, and William
Cook, Esquire, Commissioners for
making and concluding Agreements
with the Chief Rulers of the Western
Coast of Africa, for the Suppression
of the Traffic in Slaves, and the
establishment of a lawful Commerce.

J. Russell.

No. I.
Downing Street, January 30, 1841.
Gentlemen,
Her Majesty being earnestly desirous to put down entirely that
traffic in slaves, and to substitute, instead thereof, a friendly
commercial intercourse between her Majesty's subjects and the
natives of Africa ; and her Majesty having determined to send
persons of trust to open a communication with the native African
Chiefs, and where it shall appear expedient to conclude, in her
Majesty's name, with those chiefs, agreements calculated to attain
the salutary objects above declared. Her Majesty has been
pleased to approve, that an Expedition shall be sent for this
purpose to the several African states, which are situated on or
near the sea coast, within the Bights of Benin and Biafra, or
within the mouths of the chief rivers, which open into the said
Bights, and up and within the River Niger and its tributary
streams, as far as they shall be navigable for steamers of the size

APPENDIX. 4 1 3
and draught of those which may accompany and form part of the
Expedition ; or, in the event of the Niger and its tributaries not
proving navigable for vessels of this size and draught, to proceed,
either by land or water, to any place or places on their banks, or
to any countries lying within a distance convenient to be reached,
where, in the opinion of the Commissioners named in the accom
panying Commission, it may be important and advisable to treat
with the native chiefs, in conformity with the main objects of
this Expedition : and her Majesty having the fullest trust and
confidence in your tried fidelity, zeal for the service, your prudence
and ability, has, by the accompanying Commission under her
Royal Sign Manual, been pleased to appoint you to be the
Commissioners, to accompany and form part of the Expedition for
the aforesaid purpose described ; and her Majesty has further been
pleased to command me to give you the following instructions for
your guidance : —
1. I am, in the first instance, commanded to impress upon you
her Majesty's injunctions, that you act always, and in all points
respecting your commission, cordially and in unison with each
other. You will not withhold from each other the free expression
of any variance of opinion ; but you will distinctly understand,
that if, after due consideration, you cannot agree, the opinion of
that gentleman is to prevail, whose name stands first in the Com
mission which her Majesty has been pleased to give to you.
In such event, however, each dissentient will, if he sees sufficient
reason, record, in writing, his opinion, for the information of her
Majesty's Government.
2, 3. The first commission, as commander of the naval portion
of the Expedition, consisting of three of her Majesty's steam-
vessels, built expressly for this service, commanded respectively
by the first, second, and third Commissioners, will receive instruc
tions from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, to take on
board the fourth Commissioner, and proceed to the River Niger,
touching at Sierra Leone and Cape Coast Castle.
4. You will deliver to her Majesty's Governor of Sierra Leone,
the letter addressed to him, which accompanies these instructions,
you will explain to him and to her Majesty's Commissioners of
the mixed Commission Courts established in that colony, the

414 APPENDIX.
objects of your Commission ; you will request them to afford to
you such information and advice as they can give towards assist
ing you in the accomplishment of those objects ; the substance of
which information you will forward to this office, and you will
preserve all written communications.
5. You are at liberty to select at Sierra Leone, or at any part
of the African continent, within the limit of your Commission, and
to take with you, as volunteers, any native Africans, or persons of
African descent, whom you may meet with there, and who, in
your opinion, may be likely to be of use to you as interpreters, or
otherwise, and who may be willing to accompany you on a fair
and moderate remuneration, which you are hereby authorized to
make to them for their services on this Commission, provided that
such remuneration does not exceed the amount allowed in the
Parliamentary Grant.
6. On your arrival at Cape Coast Castle, you will deliver the
accompanying letter to Mr. Maclean, the President of the Court
of Magistrates of that settlement. You will explain to him the
objects of your Commission, and you will obtain from him what
information you can respecting the present state of those neigh
bouring parts of Africa to which your Commission extends,
particularly the Bights of Benin and Biafra, and respecting any
other matters which may be of use to you towards the attainment
of the objects of your Commission.
7. In case you visit Fernando Po, you will find that the gentle
men entrusted with the management of the concerns of the British
Commercial establishment there, is in possession of an instruction
from the West African Company, of which I annex a copy, and
you will obtain from him what information you can for facilitating
the objects of your Commission.
8. Arrangements will be made by the Admiralty for the pur
pose of enabling you, on your arrival at the mouth of the Niger,
to proceed with the least possible delay through the unhealthy
marshes of the Delta, till you reach Eboe, where you will imme
diately commence operations, with the view to the execution of
the principal objects of your Commission. From that point you
will begin to visit as you proceed, and prosecute those objects
with the several native chiefs in succession, up to the highest

APPENDIX. 415
point of the Niger and its tributaries, which you may be able to
reach. But, if circumstances with which her Majesty's Govern
ment are not acquainted, should, in your opmion, render it
expedient to change the order in which it is otherwise prescribed
to you to make those visits, you are at liberty to do so. You
will, however, in case of making any such alteration, transmit to
me, for the information of her Majesty's Government, as occasion
offers, a statement of the reasons which have weighed with you in
that proceeding.
9. Her Majesty's Government do not limit to any particular
period, your stay at one place ; but you will consider it as an
indispensable instruction, not to continue so long at any one place
as to risk the successful prosecution of the objects of your Com
mission at the remainder.
10. On your arrival at each native settlement, you will ascer
tain the proper mode for opening a communication with the chief;
and in all your intercourse with him, you will take care that you
are treated by him with proper respect ; and you will not neglect,
also, to treat him with the respect which is due to the rank which
belongs to him.
11. You will tell the chief, that you are sent by the Queen of
Great Britain and Ireland, to express her Majesty's wish to
establish friendly relations with him, and to settle and agree with
him for the extinction of the foreign traffic in slaves in his
dominions ; and for the substitution, instead thereof, of a full and
free intercourse and barter of all articles of innocent trade
between the subjects of her Majesty and those of such Chief, for
his profit and advantage, and for the mutual use and comfort and
benefit of the subjects of both countries. You will ask him what
articles he and his subjects are in want of, and you will express
generally the readiness of this country to supply them. You will
ask him what articles of trade he and his subjects wish to dispose
of, and you will express generally the readiness of this country to
purchase them. You will inquire what further articles of native
growth, or produce, or manufacture his country can supply, as
articles of useful export trade with Great Britain, and you will
encourage him to the cultivation or production thereof, by ex
pressing generally the readiness of this country to take off his

4 1 6 APPENDIX.
hands, on fair and reasonable terms of barter, all such articles of
useful trade for this country, as he can supply, in return for all
such articles of use and comfort, and advantage to himself, as he
requires. 12. You will show to him the advantages of putting down the
foreign Slave Trade, and of building upon that abolition a lawful
and innocent trade. You will say to him, that his subjects will
thereby be induced to cultivate the soil, to value their habitations,
to increase their produce, and to behave well, in order to keep the
advantage which that produce will give to them ; that they will
thus become better subjects and better men, and that his posses
sions will thus become more full of what is valuable. You will
impress upon him, that he himself will no longer need to make,
or to keep up quarrels with his neighbours, or to undertake distant
and dangerous wars, or to seek out causes of punishment to his
own subjects, for the sake of producing from the odious trade in
slaves an income to himself.
You will explain to him, that the people of this country will,
out of the produce of labour in cultivating, gathering, and pre
paring articles for trade, bring to him more revenues, and be
consequently more valuable to him.
13. You will tell him that her Majesty, desirous to make that
innocent commerce, which is a benefit to all nations, a peculiar
benefit to himself, proposes that, upon his abolishing the Slave
Trade, not only he and his subjects shall have this free and
advantageous commerce, but that he himself shall have, for his
own share, and without any payment on his part, a sum not
exceeding one twentieth part value of every article of British
merchandize brought by British ships and sold in his dominions ;
such proportion to be taken by himself, without any reference to
the amount of articles for which the remaining nineteen twentieths
shall be bartered with him or with his subjects ; and you will
make agreements with him on this subject conformable, as far as
possible, with the draft agreement. You will, where possible,
stipulate in return for a free right of barter for his subjects, and
the abolition of any monopoly in his own favour, should such
exist. 14. While explaining to the Chief the profit to be derived from

APPENDIX. 4 1 7
the cultivation of the soil, you will not fail, on all proper occa
sions, so far as you may deem it expedient and compatible with
the main objects of your mission, to draw his attention to the
superior advantages of Free over Slave Labour ; to impress upon
him the impolicy, as well as the injustice of slavery, and to
acquaint him with the abhorrence in which it is held by her
Majesty and the people of England. You may remind him of
the large tracts of waste land in his possession ; state how un
profitable they are to him at present, and inform him, that if he
could procure such land to be cultivated by his subjects on a
system of free labour, he would be justly entitled to receive a
considerable share of the increased profits ; far more than enough
to counterbalance all the profits which could possibly arise from
the continuance of the Slave Trade. You may further remind
him, that every man naturally works harder for himself than for
another, and is more economical and more careful of his own
property ; consequently, that the produce of the country would
be much greater by free labour than by any other system, and
that he would derive a double advantage ; first, from his share of
the produce as a landlord, and afterwards from the duties he
would get as Chief on the sale of the remainder. You may
further intimate to him, that a compliance with the wish of her
Majesty's Government and her people in this respect, would
certainly increase her Majesty's interest in his welfare, and enable
her Majesty and her people to render much greater assistance and
encouragement in improving the condition of himself and his peo
ple, than could be afforded them during the continuance of a system
of Slave labour. But you must always bear in mind that the
main object of your Commission is the extinction of the Foreign
Slave Trade, and all other points must for the present be con
sidered subordinate.
15. You will, at the proper time, exhibit the presents with
which you are furnished from Her Majesty, as proofs of the
desire of friendship which the Queen entertains towards the
Chief, and as samples of the articles, with which among others,
this country will be glad to supply himself and his subjects in as
great a quantity, as they shall want and wish, on fair and
reasonable terms of barter.
vol. i. - -

418 APPENDIX.
You should not distribute these presents to any of the Chiefs,
except in those cases where you are satisfied that the interests of
the Commission in which you are employed imperatively require
it ; and further, you will also bear in mind the necessity of giving
no more than is absolutely requisite ; and especially with a view
to avoid all possibility of in future impeding ordinary traffic
with British or other merchants. In case any of the Chiefs or
Headmen of the country should be willing to make presents,
you are authorized to exercise your discretion in receiving or
rejecting the same ; all presents received being for the use of Her
Majesty. 16. You will finally propose to him an Agreement upon the
basis of the Draft with which you are herewith furnished.
17. If, after earnestly discussing this matter with the Chief,
you shall find that your arguments have not so far prevailed
with him, as to induce him to enter into this Agreement for the
extinction of the Foreign Slave Trade in his dominions ; and if
he shall resolutely resist your suggestions and the wishes of Her
Majesty to that effect ; you will entreat and urge him to recon
sider this matter, you will ask him to assemble his elders or
Headmen, and consult with them before he finally rejects the
proposals made by you.
18. You will, if permitted to be present at such conference,
declare that the Queen, your Sovereign, however powerful, is
anxious only to promote peace and prosperity among them ;
that she offers them, through you, every advantage that they
can want, and that she can give towards increasing, in a harmless
and sure way, the wealth and power of the country ; that you
come but to ask them to give up the custom of exporting human
beings as slaves, and, in return to offer them a more profitable
substitute in innocent trade ; that if they wish, moreover, any
help towards the production of any article, or introduction of any
commodity or art for the benefit of their country, your Sovereign
is disposed to assist them, and her subjects will be willing to
supply, at a moderate rate, what they desire ; and that you
will express to Her Majesty their wishes, and forward their views
to that effect.
19. While you describe the power and wealth of your

APPENDIX. 4 1 9
country, you will, in all your interviews with the African Chiefs,
and with other African natives, on the subject of the suppression
of the Slave Trade, abstain carefully from any threat or intima
tion that hostilities upon their territory will be the result of their
refusal to treat. You will state, that the Queen and people of
England profess the Christian religion ; that by this religion they
are commanded to assist in promoting good-will, peace, and
brotherly love, among all nations and men ; and that, in endea
vouring to commence a further intercourse with the African
nations, Her Majesty's Government are actuated and guided by
these principles. You will make allowance for the motives of
fear, of distrust, of jealousy, of suspicion, by which native
Africans, unaccustomed to treat with Europeans, in this formal
way, may at first naturally view the overtures made to them.
You will make allowance also for the misunderstanding either of
language, of manner, or of conduct, or of your object in seeking
intercourse with them ; you will also allow for any hardness of
feeling you may witness in them on the subject of Slave Trade,
a hardness naturally engendered by the exercise of that traffic,
and perhaps, in some cases, increased by intercourse with the
lowest and basest of Europeans. You will endeavour to con
vince them by courtesy, by kindness, by patience and forbear
ance, of your most persevering desire to be on good terms with
them : and you will be most careful to exhibit no signs of
needless mistrust. You will, on all occasions, keep a strict watch
so that no mischief may from open force, or secret wile of the
natives, ensue to the lives, liberties and properties of yourselves,
and of others committed to your care ; and with this view, you
will be careful to be provided with adequate means for defence as
far as possible ; but you will on no account, have recourse to
arms, excepting for the purpose of defence, and you will bear in
mind that the language and conduct prescribed to you in this
paragraph, is that which you are to observe on all occasions in
the course of your Commission.
20. If after all your attempts to attain the immediate object
of your Commission you shall fail in it, you will conclude by
telling the Chief and his Headmen, that Her Majesty is bound
to use all her naval means, in conformity with treaties already
e e 2

420 APPENDIX.
entered into with other great powers, to endeavour entirely to put
a stop to the exportation of Slaves, from the dominions of every
African Chief, and that the Chief and his subjects will, when
perhaps too late, see cause to regret their conduct.
21. In those cases, in which all your arguments and repre
sentations failing, you will have been obliged to leave the Chief
and his country without accomplishing the immediate objects of
your mission, you will be careful still, even at parting, to leave
that chief and his country, in a friendly manner, in order to give
room for future overtures, and for a reconsideration of the
kindly meant efforts of Her Majesty ; and you will, if time and
circumstances allow it, take an opportunity of visiting again
those Chiefs who, in your first visit declined your overtures, and
strengthened by the weight which your success elsewhere may
have given to your negociations, you will again urge the Chiefs
to conclude an agreement on the before-mentioned basis of the
abolition of the Slave Trade.
22. In those cases in which you shall succeed in inducing the
Chief to make an agreement on the basis proposed, you will,
where necessary, induce his Headmen to join in the agreement,
and further urge him to make and proclaim immediately the law
of Abolition of the Foreign Slave Trade ; and if time will
permit, you will stay to be witness of the immediate effects of the
proceeding. 23. Two Stipulations are inserted at the end of the agree
ment, which is to be proposed to the African Chiefs, under the
head of Additional terms for Special Cases.
These additional terms are not to be proposed to the African
Chiefs generally, but to those Chiefs only to whom you may
deem it especially expedient or desirable to submit such stipu
lations for their acceptance ; and in no case are those additional
terms, whether they shall be agreed to, wholly, or in part, to be
inserted in the body of the agreement, but to be added to it
as separate articles.
24. The first stipulation is for abolishing human sacrifices.
Her Majesty's Government are anxious as a general principle,
that you should show that your Government and yourselves
respect the laws and usages and habits of the people you are

APPENDIX. 421
commanded to confer with. But in the case of human sacrifices,
the doctrines of the Christian religion, as well as all natural
principles of right and wrong, so utterly prohibit them, and the
practice is so certain to perpetuate barbarism, and so calculated
to prevent all safe and profitable communication, that you are
authorized in this case to make an exception from the general
rule of not interfering with the domestic institutions of each State.
Wherever, therefore you shall find that human sacrifices
exist, you will earnestly entreat the Chief to consider the reasons
for complying with the earnest wish of our Queen who desires
their welfare, and who is so powerful a friend to them and to all
whom she protects. You will, if necessary and prudent,
assemble the Headmen, and urge to them as well as to the Chief,
the considerations which should prompt them to abolish the
practice, viz. :
The general and inevitable effect of human sacrifices in
lessening the population ; and the particular evil of the practice
in depriving the country, at times, of persons the most service
able to it, at the moment when they are most needed, the
consequence in all cases of producing misery in the family from
which the victim is selected ; the utter subversion of all principles
of justice, in taking away the life of any person without any
offence having been committed by the individual ; the feeling of
general insecurity of life, which such a practice produces, and
the necessary abhorrence of Him who has created all Men, to
an act which is against every tie of human affection, and to a
punishment which makes no distinction between innocence and
crime. You will earnestly entreat them to consider the great truths
you have told them, and to break the bonds which chain them
to this practice.
But you will insist on this point no further, than by anxious
exhortation, and by affectionate advice ; and should you fail at
present, you will leave it to time, and repeated council, to produce
a change so devoutly to be wished.
25. The second stipulation is for a purchase of land, for the
erection of a Fort.
It is considered desirable by her Majesty's Government, to have

422 APPENDIX.
power to erect one or more small Forts on the Niger, from
whence, and by means of which, to watch over the due execution
of the agreements, to assist in the abolition of the Slave Trade,
and to protect and further the innocent trade of her Majesty's
subjects. Bearing these views in mind, you will, in your course up that
river, select some one or more appropriate spots for the erection of
Forts for the above-mentioned purposes ; and you will make with
the Chief of the country a conditional bargain for the land, stating
the purpose for which it is intended ; you will pay down a small
portion of the price, as security for the purchase and permission j
and you will send or bring home, for the consideration and
ultimate decision of her Majesty's Government, reports and
drawings explanatory of the spot, and of its capabilities.
The spots should be chosen with reference both to defence
and salubrity ; to soil and to climate, not only of the spots them
selves, but also of the immediate neighbourhood on both sides of
the river ; because the miasma from one side of the river will
frequently, if carried by winds, produce diseases on the other
side. They should be places where vessels may securely anchor,
and ride in safety. They should be in situations to which natives
are likely to resort for trade, and, if possible, in situations where
natives have been accustomed to resort for that purpose. Means
of a ready communication with the interior are also desirable for
the positions, so that persons wishing to visit the interior from
thence, for purposes of commerce, or otherwise, may there find
facilities for those objects. They should be in a neighbourhood
where supplies for vessels may be got, and in a country where the
inhabitants are well disposed towards friendly communication
with British subjects ; and they will be preferably situated, if not
far from some considerable mass of habitations. The establish
ment of a position near to the confluence of the rivers Niger and
Tchadda, would, with its other advantages, have the additional
and important one, that it would assist the British trade with both
rivers. 26. You will promise to those Chiefs who shall sincerely aid in
the views of her Majesty, in abolishing the Slave Trade, that you
will do all in your power for their assistance and protection, in

APPENDIX. 423
case they shall be attacked by enemies for the faithful performance
of the conditions of the agreement. But you will only make this
promise where you see the prospect of being able effectually to
perform it.
27. You will in every conference with African Chiefs, assure
them that the Queen has ordered you on the service in which
you are engaged, for the benefit and happiness of the African
race. 28. You are to understand generally, that any agreement, of
whatever nature, you shall enter into with African Chiefs, is to be
held subject to her Majesty's sanction ; and that a clause is to be
inserted in, or added to, any such agreement, declaring that it
is expressly reserved to her Majesty, to sanction, modify, or annul
the same.
29. If several of the Chieftains could be induced to unite
together, and bind themselves by one agreement to suppress the
Slave Trade, such conjoint agreement would greatly conduce to
effect the principal object of the mission. You are, therefore,
to avail yourselves of every opportunity to persuade the Chiefs to
adopt this measure ; and further to procure, in such agreement,
the insertion of proper conditions, to insure to the respective
parties mutual protection from all aggressions which might arise
from their uniting in such an engagement.
30. You yourselves will be careful to abstain during the whole
course of your mission, from all barter, or other bargain for the
purposes of commerce, either on your own part, or by or for
others ; and you will also take care not to mix up either her
Majesty's Government or yourselves, in any way, in any commer
cial or agricultural speculation.
31. If the sovereignty over any country or place should be
offered to Great Britain through you, you will engage to submit
the proposal to your Sovereign.
32. You will also take care to be courteous and friendly towards
the subjects of all civilized nations, whom you may meet in the
course of your mission.
33. If at any place, in an independent state, within the range
of your Commission, it shall appear to you to be desirable that a
Resident Agent on the part of her Majesty shall be immediately

424 APPENDIX.
appointed, and enter on his duties, you are empowered to leave at
such place provisionally, as British Resident Agent, any one of
the gentlemen of your Commission, or of the officers or others of
the Expedition, whom you may think competent and fitted to the
duties of that situation. You may assure to such gentleman an
allowance proportioned to the circumstances of his situation for
one year only.
34. If, however, at such place, at which you are of opinion
that a Resident Agent on the part of her Majesty would be
desirable, you shall find any respectable British merchant, or
factor, whom you shall see to be fit to be named provisionally
British Resident Agent, you may appoint such person provi
sionally to that situation, subject to confirmation from home. It
is supposed that the superior protection which this character will
give to such a gentleman will be a sufficient compensation to him
for his services.
35. In case you shall find that any Agents of foreign Chiefs or
Powers shall be resident at the places at which you may touch, or
that any negotiations are going on between the Chief you visit
and other persons or Powers, you will endeavour to learn the
purport of them, and the views of the respective parties to such
negotiation, particularly with respect to the Slave Trade; and
you will transmit these particulars to me.
36. You will make the commercial interests of Great Britain an
object of your constant attention ; you will countenance British
subjects, trading innocently to the possessions of any Chief of that
part of Africa to which your Commission extends ; always,
however, excepting merchants trading to those countries or
possessions, the Chief whereof has declined to abolish the foreign
Slave Trade. And if any British subjects, trading innocently, as
aforesaid, to the Chiefs who shall have abolished the Trade
in Slaves, should have any suit or pretension depending, you will
endeavour to procure for them speedy justice. Yet, for the
honour of her Majesty, you will confine your interference to such
cases only as may deserve the interposition of her Majesty's name,
for the proper relief of British subjects, and for their support
in their just rights.
37. You will at every place you shall visit, collect, and after-

APPENDIX. 425
wards, as opportunities may occur, transmit to me the most
accurate information you can obtain upon the Slave Trade,
whether carried on by the Chief only, or by his subjects only, or
by both ; the income derived therefrom by the Chief ; the average
number of slaves shipped, or otherwise taken off, in the course of
a season ; the countries or places from which they are supposed to
have come, and the routes by which they are generally brought,
and the circumstances by which in general they are supposed to
have become slaves ; the nations and the individuals by whom
they are supplied, and the price paid for them, both in the country
from whence they come, and at the place at which you make the
inquiry ; their course down to the spot, where they are finally
embarked for the foreign Slave Trade ; and the means whereby
that trade can at any of those places be best prevented or stopped
in its progress.
38. You will likewise make special inquiries as to the state of
slavery existing in any country you may visit. As far as you can,
you will endeavour to ascertain the numbers so enslaved ; what
proportion they bear to the whole population ; to what extent
predial slavery prevails ; the condition and treatment of slaves ;
whether liable to be sold, put to death, or how otherwise punished
at the pleasure of the owner ; whether the numbers are increasing
or diminishing ; who are liable to be made slaves, and for what
causes ; whether emancipation is in any, and what cases allowed
to take place ; what powers the Chief possesses in respect of
emancipating or improving their condition ; what is the average
value of slaves of different ages and sexes ; and every other
important particular calculated to throw light upon the character
of domestic slavery at present existing in Africa.
39. You will also collect, and transmit to me, in like manner,
the most accurate information you can obtain as to the extent of
the possessions of each Chief you may visit ; and as to his
influence beyond those possessions; as to the number of his
towns and villages, and whether they are walled or open ; as to
the number of the inhabitants in the principal towns, and the total
supposed population of his possessions ; as to the rivers which run
through those possessions, their source and mouth, and how far
and for what boats navigable ; as to the numbers and condition

426 APPENDIX.
of the army, as to the nature and amount of the contribution
levied on the people, and what are the further and financial re
sources of the Chief; and what is the extent of the power pos
sessed by the Chief over his subjects : how far it is limited by law
or custom, or by powers possessed by his elders or Headmen ;
and whether the succession to the Chief is hereditary or elective ;
and also, what is the personal character and influence of the
present Chief.
40. You will, in like manner, collect and send to me, the most
accurate information you can obtain on the state of trade in those
countries ; on the state of agriculture, and the state of the
mechanical arts ; on the climate, and on the soil ; on the general
face of the country, and on their animals tame and wild. You will
learn, so far as you can, and enumerate the several productions of
the soil, which, either in a raw or prepared state, may be turned
to uses of commerce ; and the several animals, and parts of
animals, which may be turned to uses. You will learn and enu
merate such of those several articles as now form articles of trade,
the frequency and duration of the markets, the general supply and
the price of each article at them, and the quality of each article.
You will state the nations to whom, and the purposes for which
they are sold. And, in respect of such articles of European pro
duce or manufacture as you may see there, you will mark the price
they bear, and the comparative desire the natives have for them,
and how far the supply seems equal to the demand ; and you will
mark which of those articles you take with you, they appear most
to esteem, and what others they ask for, and how it will be best to
promote and increase an intercourse of commerce with them. You
will, when you can procure them, get specimens of the several
minerals, woods, grains, gums, and dyes, and, folding them in
paper, state on that paper the name of the article, and place and
date at which procured ; and you will put down memoranda of the
uses to which they are or may be probably applied.
41. You will collect also, and give what information you can
get, on the religion of the natives, and on their state of civilization.
including anything particular in their habits and customs ; stating
also their bodily appearance and mental character, and any
striking virtues, vices, or talents, or capabilities of which they are

APPENDIX. 427
possessed, and any peculiar diseases to which they are subject, and
what is the appearance and composition of their habitations. And
you will add to this account any particulars you can observe and
learn, respecting their implements both of peace and war.
42. You will be careful to note down any traces of former visits
of Europeans, at the places or provinces which you visit, stating
their objects, if known, and the apparent effects, if any, of their
visits. 43. You will perceive from these instructions, that your atten
tion, as to the acquisition of information, is first and principally
to be directed to the countries on the banks of the Niger ; but
should very favourable opportunities arise of sending persons into
neighbouring parts of Africa, with a well-grounded hope of
advancing the principal objects of your Commission, you are
authorized so to do, provided persons competent to such service
shall volunteer ; and in such cases, you are empowered to direct
them either to return to the steamers before they quit the river,
or to proceed to the coast, according to such route as you deem
most advisable. , -
The expense attendant upon such subsidiary Commissions will
be defrayed by her Majesty's Government ; but you will exercise
this power, so reposed in you, only when the state of circum
stances appears to you fully to justify having recourse to this
measure ; and you will transmit in writing a statement of the
reasons which may induce you to exercise this power, and the
advantages expected to be derived from so doing. You will not
fail to give all persons so employed by you full instructions for
their conduct on such Expedition.
Whereas, likewise, it may happen, on your progress up the
Niger, that you may have good reason to believe that the great
objects of your Commission will be advanced by commencing a
communication with Lokatoo, or the State of Bornou, or other
countries at a distance from the Niger, in such cases you are
authorized to send such proper persons as may be willing to go
to the Chiefs of such States, to induce them to send agents, duly
authorized to meet you, for the purpose of concluding agreements
for the suppression of the Slave Trade ; and you will instruct all
persons so sent by you to procure all useful information on sub-

428 APPENDIX.
jects immediately connected with your Commission as to the
Slave Trade, and also as to the state of the countries they may
visit, in all important points, in laws of government, agriculture,
and trade ; and you will further direct them, so far as time will
allow, and opportunity may occur, to record all interesting
particulars as to the natural productions of the country, and
other similar matters.
Instructions from the Admiralty will be given to the officer
commanding the Expedition, authorizing him, if circumstances
shall render it necessary for effecting and securing the objects of
this Expedition, to leave behind in the River Niger, one or
more of the steam-vessels, with power to the officer left in
command, to come down to Ascension, and there refit, returning
up the river, or elsewhere, when the healthy season shall
again commence, and the interests of the service shall re
quire it.
44. You will, in respect to each place which you visit,
draw up a separate despatch, addressed to me, containing an
account of your proceedings at that place, including also a
statement of proceedings which had occurred since the date of the
previous despatch.
45. You will also, in respect to each place, draw up a separate
despatch, addressed to me, containing a statement of all the
information which you have been able to collect respecting
such place, under the heads on which you are directed to
make inquiry, including in that despatch any information
you have been able to collect on any other points, which
you conceive may be interesting to her Majesty's Government.
46. You will number each of your despatches to me, be
ginning with No. 1, and continuing the number in succession,
and you will transmit them to me as occasions may arise,
for the information of her Majesty's Government ; and you
will keep copies of each of these reports, to provide for the
case of accident.
47. You will also, each of you, keep minute daily jour
nals of every transaction which may take place under your
eyes, noting down in that journal, the occurrences as they
take place, and the information, as it is given to you, together

APPENDIX. 429
with the observations you make on it at the time ; and you
will on your return, make up, each of you, and deliver to me,
a full and complete narrative, in writing, of all affairs that
have come to your knowledge during your mission, which you
may deem worthy of communication to her Majesty's Go
vernment, and which may not have been included in the
general despatches, including also a Report on the details and
result of your Commission, and accompanying that Report by a
copy of your journals.
48. You will be furnished, at the cost of her Majesty's
Government, with a set of such Books, Maps and Charts,
and Instruments, as you conceive may be useful to you in
your Commission ; and on your return, you will transmit
the collection to this office, together with the originals of
the official papers in your custody.
49. When the most important points of your Commission
are fulfilled, it may happen that a part may yet remain,
which will not require the presence of all the Commissioners.
In that case, such of you as may be safely spared, without
detriment to the service, may return to England ; the rest
will remain so long as you may deem it necessary, or as may
be directed by orders from her Majesty's Government. With
respect to the withdrawal of her Majesty's ships, the Com
mander of the Expedition will receive instructions from the
Admiralty, 50. You will receive from me, and conform to such further
instructions and directions, as her Majesty's Government
shall, from time to time, have to give you, for your guidance
in the interests confided to your care.
I have the honour to be,
Gentlemen, Your obedient humble servant, J. Russell.

430 APPENDIX. No. II.
Downing Street, January 30, 1841.
Gentlemen,
In my general instructions of this day's date, I have authorized
you to make a conditional bargain of a site of land on the Niger,
for the erection of a fort. But I have also instructed you, that
you are not authorized to accept, on behalf of her Majesty, the
sovereignty over any province or place which might be offered
through you to the Crown.
The question of establishing British sovereignty in Africa must
be reserved for future consideration and decision. But you will
perceive from the accompanying copy of a letter, which has been
addressed to me by Dr. Lushington and by Sir Fowell Buxton,
that they have urged the establishment of such sovereignty as
indispensable, in their judgment, for the success of the views of
an agricultural society, who contemplate the prosecution of the
special objects explained in the letter.
Dr. Lushington and Sir Fowell Buxton are desirous of the
purchase of the sovereignty over a territory not exceeding one
hundred miles square, in which the agent of the agricultural
society adverted to, would, on behalf of that body purchase, in fee
simple, the most eligible spot for the purposes of the society.
I can only, however, at present instruct you to make this pro
position the subject of your most careful inquiry, with a view to
your reporting.
1st. Whether a tract of land, of the nature of that required,
could be easily obtained, and upon what terms.
2nd. Whether such territory might be acquired in a district
deemed tolerably healthy for Europeans.
3rd. Whether the neighbouring tribes would be likely to be
friendly or hostile to the proposed agricultural establishment;
and, 4thly. What force would be required for the protection of such
territory. You will have carefully to weigh, therefore, the practicability,
advantages, and dangers of acquiring sovereignty for the Crown
over a considerable territory.

APPENDIX. 431
You are not to satisfy yourselves that a single Chief is willing
to sell his dominions, or a portion of them, but are to consider
the hazard of jealousy, and of hostility being excited among
neighbouring Chiefs by the appearance of the British Flag, as a
token of sovereign power in the midst of their possessions. You
will have to calculate the force that would be necessary to main
tain and defend the territory that might be acquired ; the facility
or difficulty of relief ; the extent of territory necessary to protect
those who might seek shelter and security within its borders, as
well as the danger of invasion from any European power which
might have settlements on the coast.
I have the honour to be,
Gentlemen, Your most obedient humble servant,
J. Russell.

Dr. Lushington and Sir T. F. Buxton to Lord John
Russell.
London, August 7, 1840.
My Lord,
In your Lordship's letter of December 20th, 1839, printed by
order of the House of Commons, we have a very distinct expla
nation of the views of the British Government with regard to the
suppression of the Slave Trade, and of the wise and elevated
motives which induce them to resort to expedients hitherto un
tried for the accomplishment of that great purpose. From that
document, we learn that it is intended to effect the abolition of
the Slave Trade, " by teaching the natives of Africa that there are
methods of employing the population more profitable to those to
whom they are subject, than that of converting them into slaves,
and selling them for exportation to the Slave Trader;" that
factories are to be established at the stations on the Niger ; and
that " the Queen has directed her Ministers to negotiate con
ventions with the African Chiefs and powers ; the basis of which
conventions would be —

432 APPENDIX.
" 1st. The abandonment and absolute prohibition of the Slave
Trade, and
" 2nd. The admission for consumption in this country, on
favourable terms, of goods, the produce or manufacture of the
territories subject to them."
The main object, then, of the Expedition, is to promote the
extended cultivation of the soil of Africa ; and in order to do this,
British stations are to be established on the river, and African
produce admitted for British consumption on favourable terms.
We need hardly express our humble, but cordial acquiescence in
these views ; and our conviction, corresponding with that of her
Majesty's Government, that " this plan affords the best, if not
the only prospect, of accomplishing the great objects so earnestly
desired by the Queen, her Parliament, and by her people."
Your lordship is probably aware, that it is in contemplation by
some persons interested in the welfare of Africa, to make at this
time an attempt to cultivate a district of that country. As a
mere mercantile adventure, few would be disposed to embark in
it ; with a view to profit, it would be obviously expedient to wait
till more was known, both of the advantages which the soil of
Africa offers, and of the dangers to which the adventurers would
be exposed. But gentlemen of the most acknowledged sagacity
in the mercantile world, urged by a desire of rendering benefit to
Africa, and convinced that there is no way of doing this so effec
tually as by demonstrating her agricultural resources, are willing to
embark their capital, provided only that such facilities and se
curities are afforded to them as the Government have the power
of bestowing.
For this purpose they require and trust that there will be no
difficulty on the part of the Government in giving them a charter,
limiting responsibility ; they then will be prepared to make the
experiment of cultivating a tract of country bordering on the
Niger, and of raising in the first instance £50,000, with the
intention, if the trial be successful, of hereafter inviting the public
to unite with them in finding the funds for more extended tillage.
We now proceed to inquire what are the necessary conditions
in order that this attempt may be made under the most favourable
circumstances, and may lead to the most complete and striking

APPENDIX. 433
exhibition of the effects which cultivation will produce, and the
blessings it will bring with it.
In these settlements, persons, property, and lawful occupations
must be protected ; the produce of free labour must receive
encouragement in the European market. Finally a fitting ex
ample must be presented to surrounding nations of the benefits
of Christianity, and of the advantages to be derived from civilized
institutions. The simple enumeration of these particulars may
suffice to show the impossibility of combining or securing them
under any known form of native Government. All that is known
of Africa, whether from British officers, or missionaries, or
scientific travellers seems to concur in proving that settlements
of this description must be kept apart from the contamination
of prevailing native practices, and that their internal pros
perity not less than their external security, can be maintained in
no other way than by placing them under the protection of the
British Crown.
It is clear that in the districts where the experiment is made,
the sovereign power must be held by the British Government,
and the natives obey our laws, or we must be subject to their
authority, and submit to such laws as they may impose. Our
rule and our institutions will be a pure gain to the Africans.
We might then insure security of person and property within
the precincts of our settlement, and we might take care that,
there at least, none of the native superstitions and bloody rites
were practised.
It is not too much to say, that wherever British Sovereignty
shall be firmly established, there religious and civil liberty would
instantly prevail, intestine wars and anarchy would cease ; the
Aborigines would be protected, equal rights be enjoyed by all,
and every motive, aid, and opportunity, which public or private
benevolence, or enterprize, might contribute towards the civi
lization of Africa, would be most successfully brought into
operation. But supposing the natives to be rulers, we must submit to all
their abominations, and consent to see human sacrifices made,
and to be thwarted by the evil influence which such sights
exercise on all attempts at civilization. We believe that no
vol. r. f f

434 APPENDIX.
Company could be induced to endure this, and if that difficulty
could be got over, we do not believe that our presence, under
such circumstances, could effect any great advance in civi
lization. If the districts cultivated by the persons to whom we have
alluded, are under the dominion of Great Britain, Slavery must
be abolished. This was done in Bulama, and is done at Liberia,
and all persons resorting to those tracts of territory, have been
declared to be free ; and it is remarkable that we have from
Captain Beaver, on the one part, and Governor Buchanan on the
other, the strongest acknowledgments of the benefits which they
severally derived from refusing to tolerate Slavery under any
form. But advantages of this kind are not the strongest argu
ments for our insisting upon free labour. The extended
cultivation of the soil of Africa, if unaccompanied with precau
tions against Slavery, may even aggravate and perpetuate this
lamentable system : and every step towards extending and
improving the resources of these countries may with them, as
with Egypt, prove a step towards promoting and encouraging
predial bondage. In short, our paramount object is to establish
free labour cultivation, and to prove its superiority, thus providing
wholesome and profitable occupation, and undermining the Slave
Trade. If the district cultivated be British territory, there can be
no Slavery, and it is hardly too much to say, that, under
native rule, there will be no such thing at present as free
labour. Unless the territory which it is intended to till be subject to
Great Britain, we shall be deprived of a large portion of the
money which is to form the capital of our Agricultural Esta
blishment. We look to members of the Society of Friends, or
Quakers, for a considerable portion of this capital. Some of
them are ready to undertake Agriculture in Africa, provided that
in that country they are circumstanced as they are already in
England. The Government here finds them protection ; they
have no act or part in the matter ; their scruples are not offended
by having to ask for the aid of an armed police ; they do not
carry arms themselves, neither do they ask others to carry them.
But unless we are sovereigns in the district we cultivate, our

APPENDIX. 435
people must protect themselves, and must be ready, on every
occasion, to turn out against the enemy.
Lastly. — The British Government proposes to engage for
" the admission for consumption in this country, on favourable
terms, of goods, the produce or manufacture of the territories
subject to them." And we readily admit that no inducement
eould be devised more efficacious for the purpose of leading the
Native Powers to unite with us in the suppression of the Slave
Trade ; it would provide for them the two things which they most
require, a market for their own products and a liberal supply of
European goods ; but we are at a loss to conceive how this
boon can be conceded, unless the territory on which these
products are grown be British. In the latter case, the Duties
we impose may be as light as we please, and there will be no
restraint as to the measure of encouragement which we may
choose to give to the infant cultivation of Africa. But if the
district belong to a native power, we shall be controlled by all
our treaties with other nations, engaging to receive their commo
dities upon the same terms as those of the most favoured
nations. We propose, for example, to grow Sugar in Africa by
free labour, to come into competition with the Sugar of Brazil ;
we shall naturally be disposed to favour that which is intended
as a blow against the Slave Trade, in preference to that which is
produced by means of the Slave Trade-
in short, if the territory on which our capital is to be expended
be British, we have it in our power to offer the most effectual
encouragement for its growth, but the contracts we have
formed with other nations forbid us to give this natural and
powerful stimulus to the industry of tribes who are under native
dominion. Thus it seems that this great national experiment for awakening
the people of Africa to a proper sense of their own degradation
and misery, and for developing practically and before their eyes,
the advantages which they might derive from the resources of
their soil, and the pursuits of legitimate commerce, is liable to
be defeated, and that system which it is declared affords the best,
if not the only, prospect of accomplishing the suppression of
the Slave Trade, will be exposed to difficulties at every step,
f f 2

436 APPENDIX.
unless the experiment be made in the first instance, on land
belonging to the British Crown.
We shall lose the aid of the Society of Friends, our Settle
ments will have to defend themselves, and thus be either weak
and so tempt native cupidity, or if strong, themselves be tempted
to aggression. We shall be unable to encourage it in its
earlier stage, by favourable and light duties on its products.
We shall lose the vast advantages which may be expected from
the absence of Slavery. We must submit to witness, and almost
to connive at those horrid rites which are practised in Africa
under the name of religion.
In short, the administration of just laws, security, free labour,
fiscal encouragement to African agriculture, constitute the
essence of the new preventive system; without these, the
experiment is forlorn, no body of persons will be hardy enough
to uttempt it, and these essentials are only to be obtained on a
territory attached to Great Britain.
The practicability of obtaining such territory is sufficiently
indicated by repeated instances of willingness on the part of the
Chiefs and people of Africa, to dispose of territory (sovereignty
and soil included), for adequate considerations.
By far the greater number of treaties made with African
nations contain stipulations for the cession of territory, either
absolutely or with reservations, and upon condition either of
receiving a subsidy, or of enjoying the advantages of British
protection and commerce. The preamble to many of these
treaties attests beyond any question the sense entertained
by the natives of the insecurity of their own condition, and
their ardent desire to find refuge under a regular form of Govern
ment. It is true that it has been the practice of the Government of
late years to discourage arrangements of this description in
Africa, and no doubt wisely. When the benefit contemplated
was the extension of our dominions, the Government shewed
their moderation by rejecting overtures which if they gratified
ambition on the one hand, entailed responsibility and expense on
the other ; but the present plan suggests a definite object of a
magnitude and importance which would seem fully to justify the

APPENDIX. 437
adoption of a different policy. If we acquire sovereignty over
any given district in the neighbourhood of the Niger,- it will be
not for the purpose of enlarging the limits of our empire, but for
the purpose of accomplishing an object, beyond all others, dear
to the disinterested benevolence of this country, and of rescuing
one of the most forlorn and populous regions of the world from
the miseries of the Slave Trade. It has been truly observed-,
that " the state of Africa is such that change as it may, it cannot
change for the worse ;" this is especially true with respect to the
principles and objects of the present plan, which presents a
striking contrast to those of almost every scheme of Emigration
or Commerce of ancient or modern times. The acquisition of
land and the assumption of sovereignty now recommended, will
be based on a full recognition of the independent rights of
African Chiefs and nations.
It would be the result of voluntary cession, or of equitable
purchase only. It would guarantee to individuals the possession
of all personal and proprietary rights not inconsistent with justice
and British institutions. It would rest upon the firm footing of
the mutual interests of both contracting parties ; the benefits of
Christianity and of British protection, on the one hand, amply
compensating for the surrender of savage independence ; and, on
the other hand, the advantages of enlarged and regular commerce.,
promising at no distant day, a sufficient reward for the additional
labours and responsibilities of extended government. It is to be
borne in mind that opportunities of this kind, if much longer
neglected, may be finally lost. The Portuguese, in addition to
their extensive possessions . in Western Africa, have already
assumed the sovereignty of a district extending fifteen hundred
miles along the eastern coast; the American settlement of
Liberia occupies three hundred miles of the western coast,, and as
we learn by a recent letter from Governor Buchanan, they are
continually accepting the voluntary allegiance of Chiefs whose
dominion stretches far into the interior. Your Lordship, need
not be reminded of the anxiety of the French to extend their
African territory, and it is far from impossible that the Texians
may, ere long, covet portions of the African soil, for the very
purpose of giving facility to the Slave Trade.

438 APPENDIX.
Your Lordship will observe that we do not now, for the first
time, urge the necessity of acquiring sovereignty. In the
observations of Sir Fowell Buxton, addressed to the Marquis of
Normanby, and in the Right Honourable Stephen Lushington's
letter to his Lordship, 31st July, 1839, the same doctrine is
maintained, and British sovereignty is represented as the most
effectual instrument for accomplishing the great purposes of the
Government; and the only difference is, that we now propose
that British power should be confined within much narrower
limits than those which were formerly suggested by us. Our
opinions are unaltered that the acceptance of voluntary offers of
sovereignty extending over whole kingdoms will be found the
greatest boon which we can confer upon Africa, and the surest as
well as the speediest mode of effecting the eradication of the
Slave Trade. As, however, it is considered premature, at all
events before the return of the Expedition, to resolve on any very
important and decided mode of proceeding, we very reluctantly,
and with a clear sense of the delay which it will occasion, and of
the impediments not now existing which may arise, forbear to
press upon your Lordship the immediate acceptance of any such
offer, should it be made.
We hope, however, no objection will be entertained to the
Commissioners becoming the bearers of conditional proposals of
this nature, subject to the approval or rejection of the British
Government, in order that they may be considered under the
light which the Expedition is expected to throw upon the state
of Africa. The objections which are supposed to exist to the
acquisition of sovereignty upon a large scale, do not, we con
ceive, apply to the voluntary cession, on the part of African
Chiefs, of portions of Territory comparatively small. Our
proposal is then, that the Commissioners be instructed to
purchase on the part of the Government, the sovereignty of a
territory not exceeding one hundred miles square, bounded as far
as may be by natural objects, commencing beyond the limits of
the Delta, and running into the interior in the direction of the
Niger, so as to keep the river well in the centre. The Agent of
the Agricultural Society will also be instructed to purchase for
the Company, in fee simple, the most eligible spot to be found

APPENDIX. 439
within this territory, for the purpose of commencing the culti
vation of the soil.
Supposing both these arrangements to be carried into execution,
we shall have a settlement circumscribed within narrow limits,
and favourable in soil and aspect for the agricultural purposes of
the Company, and we shaU have the adjacent and surrounding
country under British authority, and thereby protected from the
injury which would necessarily arise if the Slave Trader were
permitted to prowl about the skirts of the Farm. We shall
have, moreover, the river running through the centre of the
British dominion, and thus no longer open as a highway for the
transport of Slaves.
In asking for a territory one hundred miles square, we speak,
as we necessarily must, indefinitely ; but it may turn out that a
much smaller extent may be sufficient for our purposes ; this
point, therefore, must be left in great measure to the directions
of the Commissioners. We have the honour to be, &c.
(Signed) Stephen Lushington,
T. Fowell Buxton.

By ike Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High
Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland. Whereas it has been signified to us by Lord John Russell,
one of Her Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State, that Her
Majesty being desirous of establishing a friendly intercourse
with those African states which approach the Gulfs of Benin and
Biafra, and which stretch along the great rivers Quorra and
Chadda, and also of encouraging in the native population of
those states that wholesome spirit of commercial industry which
must tend to put down the traffic in slaves, has determined for
these purposes to send there an Expedition, under the direction
of four commissioners, of whom you have been appointed the

440 APPENDIX.
chief; and further that you have been already furnished by
Lord John Russell with full instructions for duly carrying out
Her Majesty's beneficent views, We have therefore caused the
three steam-vessels, 'Albert,' 'Wilberforce,' and 'Soudan,' to
be thoroughly equipped, in order to carry into execution the
above recited objects, and having a full confidence in your zeal
for Her Majesty's service, as well as in your ability, temper, and
prudence, we have thought fit to intrust you with the command
of this important Expedition, and we have therefore appointed
you to the first-mentioned of these vessels, and we have directed
Commander William Allen of the ' Wilberforce,' and Commander
Bird Allen of the 'Soudan,' to follow your orders for their
further proceedings : You are hereby required and directed to
take the 'Wilberforce' under your orders, and as soon as that
vessel and the ' Albert' are ready in all respects, to put to sea
with them, and to proceed to the Islands of Madeira or Teneriffe
in order to prove the rates of the chronometer, but touching by
the way at Lisbon or Gibraltar, for a supply of coals, if any un
toward weather should have rendered such a measure absolutely
necessary. From thence you will proceed to Porto Grande in the Cape
de Verde Islands, as your first general rendezvous. You will
no doubt find there Her Majesty's ship 'Soudan,' and the
' Harriet,' transport, and with them you will call at Sierra
Leone for the purpose of embarking such parties of Krnmen and
interpreters as may be necessary for the service, and such other
persons as you have been instructed to receive on board by the
Secretary of State, and having proportionately divided them,
into the several vessels under your command, you will make the
best of your way to Cape Coast Castle, as your general rendez
vous, in case of parting company.
After completing all your requisite arrangements there, and
obtaining from the governor any information which may bear on
your future proceedings, you will repair to the mouth of the
River Nun, which there is reason to believe offers the most ready
access to the- main branch of the Quorra; but we desire that you
will remain in the offing till your final dispositions are made,
immediately removing from the transport all the stores which

APPENDIX. 44 1
can be wanted by the steam-vessels in their progress up the
river, or which can be stowed by them ; and then directing her
to proceed to Fernando Po, in order to deliver all the remaining
stores to the agent of the West African Company, who has been
directed to take charge of them for your future use, and who
on giving her master proper receipts and vouchers, will signify
to him that his engagement with Government has then termi
nated. During this period you will also take means to have a satis
factory survey made of the bar of the Nun, with the approach
ing soundings, the entrance channel, and the adjacent anchorage,
but under such precautions as may not prematurely expose your
men and officers to the baneful effects of the climate.
If the objects of the Expedition should happily be fulfilled
and should lead to a free intercourse with the interior, this
survey of the bar will be of great moment in enabling all new-
coming vessels to run at once into a secure berth. Any further
survey of the lower part of the river must be deferred to a
fitter opportunity, as we desire that when once entered, you will
proceed across the whole breadth of the alluvial and pernicious
Delta, as far as Eboe, with all the speed compatible with the
safety of Her Majesty's vessels, and the comfort of their crews,
and that you will not allow yourselves to be diverted from that
object by any minor considerations whatever. Nevertheless as
by that time the month of June will have commenced, and as
the river will be at its lowest, all those flats and shoals which
render its navigation so difficult when the river is full will then
be above water, and their positions visible. You will therefore
be prepared with a digested plan for the combined operation of
all the three vessels under your command, by which the position
and extent of those flats and banks may be approximately
determined, the three tracts of continued soundings carefully
recorded, and the opposite shores with their projecting points,
creeks, villages, and general characteristics satisfactorily sketched
— in short, you will take means for making such a competent
though running survey of that part of the river as may ensure
its safe navigation to Her Majesty's vessels when returning with
a full or possibly with a falling river, and which will serve as the
foundation for a subsequent and regular survey.

442 APPENDIX.
These preliminary matters being duly arranged, the transport
dispatched, and proper dispositions made for giving mutual
assistance to each other in case of touching on banks or rocks,
you will at once cross the bar, and press forward to the scene of
those operations which are so fully and clearly traced in the
instructions drawn up by the Secretary of State, and which we
hereby require and direct you to carry into execution. On those
leading and specific objects of the Expedition, we need not
here enlarge nor do we intend by these orders in anywise to
interfere with your plans for carrying them into effect, nor
with the periods at which you may think it prudent to visit the
various districts along the rivers. To those primary objects, all
other pursuits and inquiries must be subordinate, but next in
importance to them, or rather as an essential part of them, we
place the extension of geographic discovery, and therefore while
in the upper waters of the Quorra and Chadda, you will consider
it a part of your duty to send forward Her Majesty's ship
* Soudan' to the utmost limits of those rivers to which she can be
floated with safety, and with a certainty that her return will not
be intercepted by the falls of the water. Nor should your
researches be bounded even by those limits, provided the season
of the year, the disposition of the inhabitants, and the health of
your own people are sufficiently encouraging to induce you to
explore those rivers and their principal adjuncts still further into
the interior by means of your boats. Such enterprizes, how
ever, must never consist of less than two well appointed galleys
and commanded by an officer of intelligence. For these parties
you will carefully select native interpreters, who have seen the
nature and power of the steam-vessels, and witnessed your
friendly and peaceable conduct, and who will declare among the
various tribes that may be visited, the real purport of the Expe
dition. In framing the orders for these distant detachments, we desire
that you will give the most peremptory directions that in no
case whatever the two boats may be permitted to separate,—
and that no over-confident individual may be allowed to straggle
through the towns or villages, as an affray or some frivolous mis
understanding might mar all that you had already effected. It
is also our opinion that on these occasions it is bad policy to

APPENDIX. 443
conceal the arms, — for though everything like violence or
menace should be repressed, yet among such people the evidence
of superior strength will obviate its employment.
We further desire that every exploring party, whether by
land or water, should be accompanied by a medical officer, not
only for the benefit of his comrades, but from the favourable
impression that medical skill is sure of making on the artless
and ignorant nation. While in the upper reaches of the river,
some tempting opportunity may occur of sending an exploring
mission overland; and though we do not altogether forbid occa
sional adventures of this kind, yet we insist on their never being
undertaken but on the most sufficient grounds, where the object
has been fairly weighed against the means, and where there is
no probable doubt of a successful and pacific result. Distant
and doubtful discoveries must be deferred to other opportunities.
Though any accurate knowledge of the country cannot be
expected from the natives, yet by a series of judicious inquiries,
frequently repeated and never put in a leading form, much gene
ral information may be obtained. Their memories can supply
surprisingly accurate itineraries, — they can describe the magni
tude and distance of the high knots and chains of mountains,
and the direction and breadth of the intervening basins of the
rivers and lakes. They know the principal products of their
own and of the neighbouring districts, and of the caravans that
transport them, and you will be able to learn from them the
commencement and duration of the periodic rains in the distant
mountain groups, which will throw a useful light on the per
plexing subject of the intermitting rise of the rivers.
To give the greater dignity and weight to your proceedings
at those places where chiefs of a certain rank reside, it may
sometimes be prudent to retain with you more than one of the
vessels under your command ; but, whenever possible, two of
them should be kept employed in exploring and surveying.
The upper parts of the river, as above directed, will first
engage your attention, but afterwards, when the proper season
arrives, you will undertake the examination of complicated
branches through the delta, and the discovery of the quickest
and surest channel of communication with the sea. The Benin

444 APPENDIX.
or Formosa, the Warri, the Cross, the Bonny, and the- New and
Old Calabar, have each had their advocates, and undoubtedly
some of them near their mouths do appear to offer a wider,
deeper, and more easy access than the opening of the Nuna, or
central branch. On the other hand, according to statements
which have lately reached this country, the Benin and other
branches are said to fail at a short distance from the sea, while
the Nuna, which from its position must evidently have been the
principal agent in the protrusion of the delta, still seems to be
the most direct road. In order to solve this important problem,
you will in good time prepare all the necessary measures, so that
you may be able at once to seize on the most favourable period
of the year for this trying service ; and the officer to whom it
may be entrusted must be charged to pursue it with the utmost
rapidity in his power, and yet with the utmost prudence, cau
tiously feeling his way with respect to the health of the people,
and immediately retiring to the higher and more wholesome
parts of the river, or proceeding to sea on the first appearance
of disease. But you are not to consider that the leading and
peculiar object of your mission, nor your efforts in discovery, are
to be confined to the Quorra and Chadda, and their confluent or
diverging branches — the Cameroons, the Malinda, the Gaboon,
and sundry other streams of great magnitude, which empty
themselves into the Bight of Biafra offer, if not a more extended,
at least a newer field of discovery ; and the same objects which
are to be accomplished by your visit to the former rivers, equally
invite the Expedition to explore the latter. Nothing being
known of the direction that these Biafra rivers take, or the
regions from whence they flow, or whether the period of the
rains from which they are swollen is simultaneous with those
which swell the waters of the Niger, the proper time for ex
ploring them must be left to your own judgment, or to the
information you may be able to glean.
If their sources be in the equatorial belt of mountains which
traverses the African continent, then their rains, as well as the
season proper for ascending them, will alternate with the rains
and the season necessary for the navigation of the Quorra, and
the two enterprizes will therefore not interfere with each other.

APPENDIX. 445
Nor does it appear that you need be apprehensive that you will
have to pass through an extensive and sickly delta ; for it has
been reported to us by those who have entered the Bay of
Cameroons that the river is seen to issue from between high and
sound banks.
Another point to which we have to direct your attention in
this quarter is the Cameroons Mountain, which it has been
asserted is an island similar in formation to Fernando Po, and
separated from the main land by narrow channels communi
cating with the mouths of the Rio del Rey. Its extensive base
is said to be fertile and populous, and its height of 12,000 feet
offers every variety of temperature, with forests of timber fit for
the largest scantling ; while at its foot the Amboises Islands
afford a secure anchorage, untainted by Mangrove exhalations,
and enjoying the full effect of the sea-breeze. If these assertions
be correct, it would seem to be a place most singularly adapted
for any agricultural establishment that may be the result of this
expedition, and they will therefore deserve your careful exami
nation. It is our further direction to you that the officers employed on
every species of detached service, whether by land or water,
should present to you a full report of all their proceedings,
accompanied by plans and views. You will also insist on the
daily projection of all surveying work, never suffering it to fall
into arrear; and you will take care that the several series of
observations, in the various departments of science to which
your attention may be directed, shall be so clearly and distinctly
recorded in tabular or other forms that no data may be wanting
for future computation. You have been liberally supplied with
the most approved instruments for every purpose connected with
geography and hydrography, as well as for extending to Africa
those magnetic and meteorologic investigations, which are now
pursued with so much activity in all quarters of the world.
Botanists, geologists, and gentlemen, whose tastes are devoted to
various branches of national knowledge, accompany the Expedi
tion ; and, in order to carry on all these numerous inquiries in
such a manner as to obtain the largest return with the least
fatigue, we recommend you early in the voyage to organize the

446 APPENDIX.
officers and men under your command into proper parties for
those several purposes.
In order to preserve a due uniformity of method in the execu
tion of your surveys, as well as in the objects and tendency of
your geographic engineers, we have directed our hydrographer
to furnish you with proper extracts from the instructions usually
given to our surveyors ; and we desire that you will correspond
with him on all the subjects connected with his department, and
that you will transmit to him tracings of all your charts and
sketches, and duplicates of all your observations.
Duplicates, also, of all your dispatches to our secretary should
invariably be kept ready for convenient opportunities of for
warding them to any of Her Majesty's cruisers which may be
employed in the Bight in preventing the approach of slavers
during your stay in the rivers, and one of which will, until the
1st of October, be directed to appear close off the mouth of the
River Nun on every full and change day of the moon, or on such
other days as may be agreed upon by you and the senior officer in
the Bight, and to remain there till sunset for the purpose of receiv
ing your communications, and on the following morning to com
municate with the palm-oil ships at Bonny for the same purpose.
After the first four months, however, it is probable that your
communication will be less frequent, and you will therefore
make the neeessary arrangement with the senior officer in the
Bight as to more extended periods, or as to more appropriate
points, at which the above-mentioned cruiser is to touch the
shore. Ingenious and costly contrivances for ventilating the vessels
under your command having been fully supplied, as well as
every article of nutriment or medicine which can tend to pre
serve or restore the health of your crews, or which may enable
them to resist the reputed malaria of the climate, we desire that
in the full and unsparing employment of all these resources you
will keep in mind not only the immediate benefit and daily com
fort of your own people, but also that you are carrying out a
series of sanatory experiments of high importance to our future
communication with those and other similarly situated countries.
Notwithstanding the above means of obviating or dispelling

APPENDIX. 447
the effects of the unwholesome districts through which you will
pass, and the known skill of your medical officers, and the pru
dent precautions recommended in the enclosed letter from the
Inspector-General of Naval Hospitals, it is probable that the
sudden change of climate, with other local causes, will more or
less affect the health of many individuals of the Expedition ; and
to this subject we especially direct your most scrupulous atten
tion. In the event of anything like the appearance of contagious
or endemic disease, you will form proper establishments by
which the sick may be immediately separated, and where unre
mitting attendance may be given to them ; or it may be expe
dient to construct temporary quarters for them on shore in some
dry and cool place,— -or in an extreme case, perhaps, it might be
necessary even to convert one of your vessels into an hospital
for all.
Whenever you may have occasion to go out of the Quorra,
either to visit its other branches, through the delta, or to ad
vance to the River Cameroons, you will find it expedient to
remit your stores and provisions at Fernando Po; and when you
have brought this service to a final conclusion, you will proceed
there, and should you not find at that place any instructions
from us to the contrary, you will return to England with the
vessels under your orders, and on your arrival repair without
delay to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of
your proceedings, bringing with you the logs and journals of all
the officers and other persons on board the several steam-vessels,
together with all charts, drawings, and observations made whilst
up the Niger, which you are hereby instructed to demand from
them, and which are all to be sealed up, and afterwards to be
disposed of as we may think proper to determine.
If, however, it should appear to you that the intentions of
Her Majesty's Government would be more fully carried out by
returning to England yourself, or sending home another officer,
leaving behind one or more of the steam-vessels, you are to use
your discretion on this point, taking such steps as you may deem
advisable for the health of the officers and crew, by sending
them to Ascension, or to any other place which you may deem
more advisable, until the commencement of the ensuing healthy

448 APPENDIX.
season, with a view to their then re-asceuding the rivers, and
following out the objects of the Expedition ; or, if you should
deem it more advisable, you are at liberty to leave them up
beyond the delta, provided the state of the ships and the health
of the crews be such as to justify this measure, bearing in mind
our constant anxiety for the health and safety of those entrusted
to your care.
If you decide to bring one vessel home, and to leave the other
vessels in Africa, you have our permission to select from the
officers and crews of the Expedition such persons as may volun
teer to remain out for this service, keeping in view while
making the selection their general state of health, and whether,
from appearances and the Surgeon's report, they are likely to be
in a fit state for a prolonged stay in the rivers.
In the event of an accident happening to any one of the
steam-vessels, so as to cause her loss, or temporary or total
abandonment, and the removal of her officers and crew to the
other vessels, the officers and men of the vessel so lost or aban
doned are to be borne as supernumeraries for wages and victuals,
and are to perform their duties according to their respective
ranks and stations in the vessels to which they may be so
removed ; and if the 'Albert' should be the vessel lost or aban
doned, you are in that case to take command of either of the
other vessels as you may deem expedient, bearing her Com
mander as a supernumerary for wages and victuals, and dis
tributing the officers and crew of the Albert on board the two
vessels as may be most convenient for the Service.
Should other circumstances make it expedient for you to
assume the command of either of the other vessels, whether per
manently or as a temporary measure, you are at liberty to do so,
retaining her Commander as a supernumerary as before, or
transferring him to the 'Albert,' as Acting Commander of her in
your absence, as the Service may require.
In case of any fatal accident to yourself, Commander William
Allen, or the senior surviving officer, is to assume the command
of the Expedition on board any one of the three steam-vessels
he may judge most fit for the benefit of Her Majesty's service.
During the whole period of this service you are to consider

APPENDIX. 449
yourself under our immediate command, and in case of an
admiral or officer senior to yourself being employed on the
Coast of Africa, we shall direct him not in any wise to interfere
with your proceedings.
The mission which is hereby committed to your guidance being
one of great importance in its object and principle, requiring
sagacity and prudence in its development, and involving
anxiety, exertion, and responsibility, we feel satisfied that your
utmost will be done to fulfil our intentions, and that you will be
supported by the unwearied and cordial co-operation of your two
commanders, and of every officer and man under your orders.
Given under our hands this 22nd day of April, 1841.
Minto,
T. Trot/bridge.
To Henry Dundas Trotter, Esq.,
Captain of Her Majesty's steam-vessel, 'Albert,'
at Plymouth,
By Command of their Lordships,
Jno. Barrow.

By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High
Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, &c.
Referring to our other instructions of this day's date, direct
ing you to proceed with the steam-vessels therein-named on an
expedition to the Niger, we hereby require and direct you, on
your arrival on the Coast of Africa, not in any way to assume
the command on that station, nor to interfere with the disposi
tion of Her Majesty's ships and vessels under the orders of the
senior officer now on the station, but to confine yourself entirely
to the objects of the Expedition under your orders, and we
acquaint you that for any assistance you may require from the
ships on the African station, you are to apply to the senior
vol. i. e o

450 APPENDIX.
officer, who is directed to give it, provided it can be done with
out interfering with the duties on which they are employed, or
inconvenience to Her Majesty's service.
Given nnder our hands this 22nd day of April, 1841.
MlNTO.
T. Troubridge.
To Henbt Dundas Tbotteb, Esq.,
Captain of Her Majesty's steam-vessel, 'Albert,'
on arrival at Plymouth .
By command of their Lordships,
Jno. Babbow.

To the Chiefs and People of Africa.
Listen to what we have to say. The Queen of England is a
great Sovereign, and has sent us to offer you her friendship, and
to talk with you as friends and brothers about the way to be
come wise and rich and powerfuL
You know that the great God made all nations of the earth
of one blood. White people are Christians, and worship this
great God. They can do many things which black people can
not do; and they have almost everything that black people
want : elothes, ornaments, tools, and useful articles of every
kind. Some of these things we have brought with us to the
Great Water, or Kawara, to show you what we mean ; and any
thing else you desire can be sent you another time.
But for such things as these you must give us something of
yours in exchange. You have been used to sell slaves for some
of these things. But it is contrary to the laws of God and of
white men to buy them of you, though some white men have
been wicked enough to do so. Now you live in a country where
everything grows very quickly out of the ground, and these
are the things which we want. They will also bring you much
more profit than slaves.
You must dig the ground, and raise cotton trees, indigo,

APPENDIX. 451
eoffee, sugar, rice, and many other things of the same kind ; and
while these are growing, you can collect elephants' teeth, gold
dust, gums, wax, and things of that sort, almost without any
trouble. Now, if you will always have plenty of these things ready for
our people when they come, you shall have plenty of our goods
in exchange.
Perhaps you will say we do not know how to make these
things grow. But the Queen of our country has sent good men
to teach you how, and also how to build houses, and to make
clothes, and to read books, and to talk about the great God, who
made all things. Only you must be very kind and attentive to
them, and not suffer anybody to hurt them.
You may say again, our country is so disturbed by war, that
if we dig and sow we are not sure of gathering our crops. But
is not this the consequence of catching and selling each other
for slaves ? If you wish to be rich, you must be peaceful ;
therefore you must leave off this wicked practice. And if several
of the chiefs would agree together to do so, their people would
be much more safe and industrious and happy.
Perhaps some chief may say again, but what shall I gain by
giving up the trade of catching and selling men ? First, you
will gain much by putting an end to war, for by this means your
people will live quietly, and become industrious, and thus you
will be able to get large tribute, like the kings and queens of
Europe. Secondly, you will gain also in this way. Suppose
you sell a man for five pounds; this sum you get for him only
once; but if you make him free as our people are in England,
and pay him good wages, he will work very hard, and will col
lect for you so much gum, or so many elephants' teeth, or help
you to grow so much cotton and other things, that after paying
him his just wages, you will get as much every year by his
labour as you would have got only once by selling him and send
ing him away.
Now then, you must judge for yourselves. Our Queeu offers
you her friendship, and an innocent trade which shall make you
rich and powerful and happy ; but it is only on one condition,
and that is, that you will promise solemnly to give up the prac-
o o 2

452 APPENDIX.
tice of catching and selling slaves, even if wicked white people
should ask you to sell them, and that you will punish, without
cruelty, any one who tries to do so ; we also hope you will give
up the sacrifice of your fellow-creatures because it is displeasing
to God.
Consider well the offer we now make you, and remember that
if you accept it you will please the great God; you will have
our powerful Queen for you friend; all good white people will
love you, and will endeavour to help you, and you will soon be
come wiser, richer, and happier than you ever were before.

To the Commanders of the Vessels of the Niger
Expedition.
I. — 1. In issuing General Orders to the commanders of the
vessels under my command, I would wish them to impress upon
their respective officers and crews, that the mission on which our
Most Gracious Queen has been pleased to send us for the benefit
and happiness of the African race, is distinguished from all former
Expeditions, by the disinterested and beneficent objects it has in
view. It may, indeed, be said to have attracted the attention
of the whole civilized world, and perhaps, it is not too much to
add, that no Expedition ever left the shore of Britain with the
good wishes and prayers of so large a portion of our countrymen.
It is, therefore, incumbent on all of us to consider the responsible
nature of the duties before us, and how much the force of good
example may effect towards the accomplishment of the ends
proposed, by exhibiting to the African the Christian in character,
as well as in name, and proving by our actions the sincerity of our
desire for their welfare and happiness.
2. In the preparations made for this great enterprise, every
thing which could be thought of as likely to contribute to the
health and comforts of the officers and men has been most
liberally provided ; it therefore more especially behoves us to use
our best abilities and utmost endeavours zealously to discharge

APPENDIX. 453
our respective duties, humbly relying upon Him who ruleth all
things, and remembering that success will mainly depend under
the blessing of Almighty God, on the cheerful and cordial
co-operation of every individual attached to the Expedition.
3. In our intercourse with savages, or half- civilized people, an
unusual degree of forbearance will often be called for, and a
kind, courteous, but at the same time, firm line of conduct will
tend materially to remove suspicion or alarm, and create confi
dence. 4. We should always keep in view, that our object is the
good of our fellow- creatures, and not our own, constantly
remembering the golden rule, " to do unto others as we would
that they should do unto us." And it is only in proportion as
we retain this sentiment, and endeavour to make it the ruling
principle of our actions, that we may expect a blessing to attend
our efforts in the cause of Africa.
II. — 1. In the event of your meeting with any of Her
Majesty's ships or vessels of the African station, it is my direc
tion that you carefully abstain from any interference whatever with
them. 2. Should you require any assistance, you are to apply in my
absence to the senior officer on the station, who is directed by
the Admiralty to give it, provided that it can be done without
interfering with the duties on which the vessels on the station
are employed, or without inconvenience to Her Majesty's
service. III. — -One of the most important parts of naval discipline, is
that which has a reference to the health of the crew, more espe
cially when employed on West African Station, and the immediate
attention of the commanders is particularly directed to such of
the following regulations as relate to that subject, in drawing up
which, I have had the able assistance of Dr. McWilliam, the
senior surgeon of the Expedition.
IV. — 1. The Admiralty having spared no expense in providing
the vessels of the Expedition with an expensive ventilating
apparatus, it becomes the duty of all to make themselves
acquainted with the system, as fully explained in Dr. Reid's
paper, and to use their utmost endeavours to carry the pkn fully

454 APPENDIX.
into operation, in order to make it as extensively useful as
possible for the health and comfort of the crews.
2. The principal arrangement is to be placed under the charge
of the surgeon of each vessel, who is to follow the rules and
suggestions contained in Dr. Reid's valuable paper, and is to
apply to the commander, to appoint a competent individual to
instruct under his directions a sufficient number of persons for
the management of the various valves and slides of the venti
lating tubes. These should be numbered to insure an effective
and easy adjustment. Odd numbers on the starboard, and even
numbers on the port side, beginning from aft, is the plan adopted
in the 'Albert.' The persons having charge of the different
sections of the vessel should be fully instructed to report any
apparent increase or diminution in the ventilation of the com
partments under their charge.
3. The ventilation should be practised frequently, even when
its beneficial effect is not required, and as many persons as
possible should be encouraged to learn the principle upon which
it acts, by putting into operation the various movements.
4. The powers of the fanners ought to be tested.
1st. In producing a circulation of air introduced into the
vessel, directly from the external atmosphere.
2nd. In propelling the heated air of the engine-room into
the hold and various compartments, as first practised in
the ' Wilberforce.'
3rd. As connected with the medicator or purificator.
4th. In connection with the tubular heating apparatus
attached to the purificator, or simply connected with the
external tube leading to the fanner.
V.— The commanders are to direct the surgeons to send reports
to them in writing from time to time, showing the results of
the trials of the ventilation, and these reports are to be carefully
preserved. VI.— 1. Dr. Reid's General Rule, No. 2, is not only to be
strictly attended to every day, but one hold is also to be examined
daily by the surgeon, (excepting on Sunday) and the state of the
air reported to the commander, in order that every compartment
may come under particular inspection during the week.

APPENDIX. 455
2. The hold of any compartment, suspected of being unwhole
some, is as soon as possible afterwards to be completely cleared
out, and thoroughly dried and ventilated, and its state afterwards
noted in the log-book, when the names of any articles are to be
mentioned, which may be considered to have caused the unwhole-
someness. 3. The surgeon is also to draw up a particular report upon
such occasions, a copy of which report is to be forwarded
to me.
VII. — 1. To avoid as much as possible any unnecessary
exposure to the night air, the white crew are all to sleep below,
when on the coast or up the river, and are on no account to be
permitted to lie about the upper deck.
2. The Kroomen alone are to sleep on deck, to whom every
facility should be given to protect them from the rain. It
might be advisable when practicable, to fit up a canoe or boat,
moored alongside, or astern of the ship for the accommodation of
the Kroomen, when the vessels are at anchor, and much crowded
on deck.
3. As few white men as the performance of the duty will
admit of are to remain on deck during the night, particularly
when rain or much dew is falling.
Those who are obliged to be on deck on duty, will be supplied
when in unhealthy localities with respirators, and a fire is then
to be kept all night in the cook-house for their benefit.
VIII. — As the hottest hours of the day are comprehended
between eleven and three o'clock, the white men should be ex
posed to the sun as little as possible during that period.
IX. — 1. Exposure onshore in Africa to the morning and even
ing dews, and the night air having proved even more prejudicial to
health than the intense action of the sun's rays, no white person
belonging to the Expedition, after arrival on the coast, is to be on
shore between sunset and an hour after sunrise, unless with my
permission, or that of the senior officer present, who is not to
grant it, unless when duties are unattainable at other times, and
care must be taken by the respective commanding officers, that
the unavoidable exposure of white men on shore at night be
reduced to the least possible amount.
2. The above precautions are considered necessary on the

456 APPENDIX.
coast generally, but more especially in the Delta of the Niger,
where the exciting causes of disease are to be regarded as acting
with increased energy, and all possible means are to be used for
obviating their injurious effects.
It is to be hoped that the climate above the Delta will be found
to be such as will admit of this restriction being modified.
X. — Boats or canoes going alongside their own or other vessels,
are to be directed to take the shady side, in order to avoid, as
much as possible, the exposure of the boats and crews to the rays
of the sun.
XI. — Dress. — The commanders may give permission to the
officers of the ships under their command to wear uniform jackets,
and white hats or caps on shore or on board.
XII. — Dress. — 1. Duck frocks and trowsers are to be worn by
the white men during the day in fine weather, with flannel next
to the skin. Each man must also be provided with two broad
flannel waist belts, so that he may be enabled to have a dry one
continually round his body.
2. The men's hats are to be of white straw, with a padding, or
defence of some sort under the crown, to prevent the injurious
action of the sun's rays upon the head. The white men are not
allowed to go aloft without the officer of the watch seeing that
they have attended to this necessary regulation.
XIII. — The crews are to be mustered before sunset, when the
white men are to be clothed in their blanket dresses for the
night, in addition to flannel clothing underneath.
XIV. — In case of any of the men getting wet, the officer under
whom they have been employed is particularly charged to muster
and report them in dry clothing, before they are allowed to go
below. If the weather is not suitable for the clothes being hung
in the rigging, a place on deck must be pointed out where they
may be deposited.
XV. — As all surfaces giving out moisture by evaporation are
injurious to health, open vessels of water, wet clothing, officers'
towels, &c, should never be allowed to remain below, nor the
crew permitted to wash themselves on the lower deck.
XVI. — While the steam vessels of the Expedition are at
anchor on the Coast of Africa, and in the Niger, and
more especially in the Delta and other unhealthy places,

APPENDIX.

457

a cup of warm coffee is to be given in the morning to each
European, whenever the surgeon thinks it advisable, and also to
such of the black men as the surgeon may think require it ; to
make which, one-third of an ounce of coffee, and one-third of an
ounce of sugar are to be issued as an extra allowance.
XVII. — As it is most desirable to encourage temperate habits
on board the steam-vessels of the Expedition, more especially with
a view to the preservation of health ; it is my direction that such
individuals as do not take up spirits, be supplied daily with the
established allowance of lemon-juice and sugar, except when their
allowance of grog shall be stopped for punishment.
XVIII. — The Kroomen are allowed only two-thirds proportion
of spirits, which is always to be mixed with at least three waters ;
but, as an encouragement to them also, not to take up their
allowance, they are to be paid for any such savings, at the rate of
six shillings per gallon ; thus making their savings at two-thirds
allowance of all spirits, calculated at this rate, equal to full
allowance, at four shillings per gallon. This order is not to apply
to savings payable to the sick mess.
XIX. — It is my direction that the issues of the following
species of provisions on salt meat days be regulated from the time
of arrival on the Coast of Africa by the following scale, observing
that cranberries and pickled cabbage (which are to be considered
as an extra allowance) are to be issued only in proportion to
the salt meat actually taken up, and that the pickles are not to be
served with pork, unless when salt meat shall have been issued
the day before : —

Days.

5 «

Pickled
Cabbage.

Cran
berries.

Sugar
for Cran
berries.

Mornings,

Coffee.
Sugar
ISaltMeatDay
2 „
3 „
4 „
5 „
lb. i i
lb. i ii
lb. iii
pts. i
oz. 111 11
OSS. 2 22
oz. i i
oz. i i i « i
a
oz. i i
I !S I
s
XX. — Preserved meats are to be issued to the company of her
Majesty's steam-vessels of the Niger Expedition on Sundays and
Thursdays, whenever the crews shall have been two days pre
viously on salt meat ; or, if more palatable to the crew, it may be
458

APPENDIX.

divided into halves, and served in four days of the week, mixed
with salt meat, without interfering with the scale in the last order
regulating the issues of pickles and cranberries.
XXI. — Wine and quinine may be given to the men occasionally
in lieu of wine and bark, and its issue may be extended to the
whole crew when thought desirable by the surgeon
XXII. — Unless absolutely necessary, the hammocks are not to
be piped up in Africa until sunrise, which in the Niger is always
about six o'clock, and when recommended by the surgeon a cup of
coffee is to be given to every man before going on deck. The
hammocks are to be left unlashed for a quarter of an hour, and
then lashed up and taken on deck, and the duties of the ship pro
ceeded with.
XXIII. — As ill consequences often arise from persons taking!
large draughts of cold water when thirsty, a small measure
is always to be kept at the filterer or tank, and used by the ship's
company, and no other is to be used by the men for this purpose.
XXIV. — The water of the Niger having been proved to contain
much animal and vegetable matter, ought not to be used for
drinking until boiled, and a little lime added to it to purify it.
XXV. — As it is extremely desirable to ascertain what constitu
tions seem best adapted to the chmate of Africa, the surgeons of
the respective ships are to be desired, as a measure preparatory to
future observations, to note, according to the annexed form, the
previous history, age, temperament, &c„ of each individual on
board :—

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APPENDIX. 459
XXVI.— 1. The General Orders, of which this is No. XXVI.,
being standing orders and regulations for the guidance of the officers
and crews of the vessels of the Niger Expedition, to be communicated
to them by their respective commanders, or commanding officers,
are to be kept separate from general memoranda and other orders,
which, though they may be for the direction and information of
the vessels generally, are only of a temporary nature. If one book
only is kept, it must contain General Orders at one end, and
General Memoranda, &c, at the other ; a new book being com
menced when the two sets of orders meet.
2. No. 900 in the General Signal Book, is to be marked
in pencil as follows : — " Second Master, Clerk, or Clerk's
Assistant, with the Order Book, to copy orders ;" and, when
obeyed, the officer is to sign his name and rank, as having copied
the order correctly.
3. My clerk will occasionally be ordered to see that the general
orders have been correctly copied ; and, when satisfied of their
correctness, to sign his name at the end of the last order.
XXVII. — 1 . It is to be understood, that all presents received
from the African Chiefs, Headmen, or others of the country, for
which some equivalent has or will be given in Government goods
or money, shall be considered for the use of her Majesty.
Presents consisting of oxen, sheep, goats, poultry, vegetables,
fruit, or other articles of provision received, are to be taken
on charge, and accounted for by the Pursers and Clerk-in-Charge
of the respective ships of the Expedition.
XXVIII. — Cowries having been supplied to the steam-vessels,
chiefly for the purchasing of provisions and stores and other con
tingencies, on account of the Niger Expedition, it is my direction;
that they be reserved expressly for that purpose, and on no.
account be applied for the payment of savings of provisions or
monthly allowance, without my permission in writing.
XXIX.— Mr. C. Wakeham, purser of the ' Wilberforce,'
having, at my request, ascertained the average weight and mea
sure of a certain number of cowries, and the sterling value thereof
in regard to their cost to Government, and it appearing by his
report, after a careful and tedious inquiry, that about four hundred
cowries weigh about one pound avoirdupois, and that an imperial

460 APPENDIX.
pint measure will contain, on an average, about five hundred
cowries when compact and the top levelled, and that the cost to
Government of five hundred, in relation to the whole supply taken
on charge by the Pursers of the Expedition, has been, as nearly
as can be calculated, about l\d. sterling ; it is my direction that
cowries be issued and received at the rate of five hundred for 7\d.,
or one hundred for \\d. sterling, and that when the imperial measure
is used in payment, one pint to be considered equal to five hun
dred cowries, and also that in cases when the parties may agree
to be paid in cowries according to weight, that four hundred be
given and received as equal to a pound avoirdupois.
And as much valuable time which would be occupied in the
counting of cowries might be saved by the use of the pint mea
sure ; the commanders of the vessels of the Expedition are to
encourage the natives to adopt the plan, and to cause a number
of pint measures to be made forthwith from the empty preserved
meat cases, and to give them occasionally as presents, until a
desire be expressed for them in barter.
In order to save the preserved carrots and other vegetables as
much as possible, it is my direction, that whenever fruit or
vegetables are on board, or can be procured at a moderate price
for the ships' companies, they be served on preserved meat days
with the preserved meat.
And as the total quantity of bread in the vessels of the Niger
Expedition is not in proportion to the other species of provisions,
it is my direction, that when yams, cocoas, plantains, rice, or any
other wholesome vegetable can be procured cheaply, the crews be
put on two-thirds allowance of bread.
Henry Dundas Trotter, Captain.

APPENDIX.

461

STATEMENT of the Number of Officers and Crews of the
Vessels comprising the Niger Expedition, when they com
menced their Ascent of the Niger, August 20th, 1841.

Albert

Wilberforce.

Soudan.

Amelia.

Total.

Europeans : —
Officers

14

10

9

3

36

Civilians

1

8

9

Engineers .
Stokers

34

3 3

24

••

8
11

Remainder of crew

29

33

15

4

81

Coloured : —

Civilian (West
Indian) .
Men entered in
••
1
¦•
1
England .
Men entered in
14
7
3
•¦
24
Africa
44
37
18
9
108
Total
109
102
51
16
278*
Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel 'Albert.'
List of European Officers and Crew, and of Coloured Men entered
in England, belonging to Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel
'Albert' when she commenced her ascent of the Niger,
August 20, 1841.
Name.
H. D. Trotter
E. G. Fishbourne
Officers.
Captain. Lieutenant.
Rank.
* This number includes the interpreters, but not the men, women
and children, belonging to the Model Farm, 21 of whom were in the
•Amelia,' and 2 in the ' Wilberforce.'
462

APPENDIX.

Name.
*D. H. Stenhouse

*Geo. B. Harvey .
fTheodore Miiller .
J. 0. McWilliam, M.D.
*James Woodhouse
*P. D. Nightingale
William Bowden .
*William C. Willie
James W. Fairholme .
R. T. Saunders
W. R. Bush
*W. H. Willmett .
Richard Mouat
William Merriman
John Langley
*Albion Lodge
James Brown

Rank.
Lieutenant and Assistant-Surveyor;
died 28th October, 1841, at Fer
nando Po.
Master; died 2nd October, 1841, on
board the 'Wilberforce' at Fer
nando Po.
Chaplain (Chaplain to the Commis
sioners, and Arabic Interpreter).
Surgeon (Surgeon to the Com
missioners),
Assistant - Surgeon ; died 30th of
October, 1841, at Fernando Po.
Assistant-Surgeon (in 'Amelia'); died
17th of September, 1841, on board
the ' Albert,' at the confluence.
Purser, (Secretary to the Com
missioners).
Mate; died 18th of October, 1841,
at Fernando Po.
Mate (in ' Amelia').
Second Master.
Clerk.
Clerk ; died 5th of November, 1841,
at Fernando Po.
Assistant-Clerk (extra Clerk to the
Commissioners).
Gunner.Engineer, 1 st class.
Engineer, 2nd class ; drowned 8th of
October, 1841, in the River Niger,
when labouring under river fever.
Engineer, 2nd class.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.

APPENDIX.

463

Name.
tWilliam Stanger, M.D.

"John Fuge

*William M'Millan

Robert Thomas
Henry Davey
JJohn M'Clintock .
Thomas Ashcroft ,
James Haughton ,
*John Peglar
*Ellis Jones

Edward Capps
John Duncan
f John Huxley
*John Burgess
Thomas Ward
Charles Loader

Civilian. Rank.
Geologist and Explorer.
Ship's Company.
(Europeans.)
. Captain of the forecastle (in 'Amelia');
died 29th of September, 1841, in
River Niger.
. Quarter-Master; died 27th of Sep
tember, 1841, on board Her Ma
jesty's brigantine 'Dolphin,' on
passage to Ascension.
. Stoker.
. Carpenter's mate.
. Stoker; died 21st November, 1841,
at Fernando Po.
. Quarter-Master.
. Gunner's mate (in ' Amelia').
. Armourer and stoker ; died 6th Sep
tember, 1841, in River Niger.
. Quarter-Master ; died 2 6th September,
1841, on board Her Majesty's
brigantine 'Dolphin,' on passage
to Ascension.
. Captain's steward.
. Master-at-arms.
. Sick-berth attendant.
. Quarter-Master ; died 1 4th September,
1841, in the River Niger.
. Gun-room steward.
. Caulker.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
% Death from casualty.

464

APPENDIX.

Name.
*Lewis Wolfe

*Robert Millward
tRichard Lamb
* James Robertson
William Vine
James May
fArchibald Yair .
James Worwood
* George Powell .
* George Symes

f Charles Hodges
*John Waller

*Henry Gibson
*George Cole
James Barrett
JMorgan Kinson .
Benjamin Saunders
John Syms

Rank.
Yeoman of signals; died 27th Sep
tember, 1841, on board 'Soudan,'
at Fernando Po.
Purser's steward; died 22nd October,
1841, at Fernando Po.
Gentlemen's steward.
Stoker; died 17th September, 1841,
at the confluence.
Blacksmith.
Boatswain's mate.
Sick-berth attendant.
Able seaman.
Cooper; died 11th September, 1841,
in River Niger.
Captain of forecastle; died 2nd Oc
tober, 1841, in River Niger.
Marines.
Serjeant. Corporal (in 'Amelia'); died 26th Sep
tember, 1841, on board Her Ma
jesty's brigantine ' Dolphin,' on
passage to Ascension.
Private; died April, 1842, in Ascen
sion Hospital.
Private; died 1 7th October, 1841, near
Fernando Po.
Drummer. Private; died 6th November, 1841,
at Fernando Po.
Private.
Private.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
t Escaped the river fever, but died from the effects of climate on
an impaired constitution.

APPENDIX.

465

Name.
Tobias Edmunds
James Craig
Daniel Carlton
*William Moffat

Sappers and Miners. Rank.
. Corporal (lance serjeant).
. Private (lance corporal).
. Private.
. Private; (in 'Amelia,') died 26th Sep
tember, 1841, on board Her Ma
jesty's brigantine ' Dolphin,' on
passage to Ascension.
Coloured Men entered in England.

Place bom.

Name.

Rating.

Guinea

William Oakley

Captain's cook.

Calcutta .

Emanuel Mandulee .

Gun-room servant.

West Indies

tJohn Williams

Captain's servant.

Bombay

William Underwood

Gun-room servant.

Halifax

Richard Wilson

Engineer's servant

Gambia

t William Guy .

Able seaman.

Kru Country

+Jack Be-Off .

Ordinary seaman.

Gambia

tRichard Harry

Boy.

Sierra Leone

f Andrew Williams .

Able seaman.

Jamaica .

Edward Henderson .

Sick-berth cook.

Antigua .

tJohn Robertson

Stok er.

tThomas Johnson

Ordinary seaman.

Eboe

tJames Graft

Stoker.

Sierra Leone

tJames Carroll

Stoker.

N.B. — The ' Albert' lost after leaving England, Samuel
Johnson, Captain of the forecastle, and John William Bach,
mathematical instrument maker ; the former was killed at sea by
falling from the fore-yard on the 3rd July, 1841 ; the latter died
of fever (not of an endemical kind) at the mouth of the River
Nun, on the 15th of August, 1841.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
VOL. I.

466

APPENDIX.

Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel ' Wilberforce.'
List of European Officers and Crew, and of Coloured Men en
tered in England, belonging to Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel
"Wilberforce," when she commenced her ascent of the
Niger, August 20, 1841. Officers. Rank.
Commander.
Lieutenant. Lieutenant (in ' Amelia').
Master.Surgeon. Assistant-Surgeon.
Assistant-Surgeon. Purser; died 27th September, 1841,
River Nun.
Mate.
Second Master and Assistant-Sur
veyor.
Clerk. Engineer, 1st class.
Engineer, 2nd class.
Engineer, 3rd class.
Civilians. Commissioner.
Chief Clerk to Commissioners.
Clerk to Commissioners.
Missionary, of the Church Mission
ary Society of England.
Botanist; died 17th December, 1841,
Fernando Po.

Name.
William Allen
-(•James N. Strange
Henry C. Harston
William Forster .
-(•Morris Pritchett, M.D.
¦j-J. R. H. Thomson
f John Stirling
*Cyrus Wakeham
Henry C. Toby .
W. H. T. Green .
p. H. R. Webb .
William Johnston
Joseph Graystock
George Garritte

-(-William Cook
J. E. Terry
William Simpson
fRev. J. F. Schon
*Dr. F. R. Vogel

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
J Died on the second ascent of ' Wilberforce ' under Lieut. Webb.

APPENDIX.

467

Name.
C. G. Roscher
Lewis Frazer
Alfred Carr
John Ansell

Henry Collins
*Peter Fitzgerald
John Bailey
John Wilson
Richard Smythers
Henry Hillier
f David Douglass
F. J. Gurney
James M'Cluskey
•(-Michael Walsh
JJohn Waddington
James Carr
George Crofts
Absolam Delavante
William Funge
Joseph Hopkins .
Edwin|HoskinGeorge Boys
William Ward
*James Kneebone
?William Allford .

Rank.
Miner and Geologist.
Naturalist.
Superintendent of model farm
West Indian of colour).
Collector of Plants.

(a

Ship's Company.
(Europeans.) Blacksmith.
. Stoker; died 2nd October, 1841,
Fernando Po.
. Cooper.
. Captain's cook.
. Gun-room steward.
. Carpenter's mate.
. Gentlemen's steward.
. Gunner's mate.
. Stoker.
. Carpenter's crew.
. Quarter-Master.
. Stoker.
. Quarter-Master.
. Arabic interpreter.
. Able seaman.
. Sail maker.
. Purser's steward.
. Captain of the foretop.
. Captain of the forecastle.
. Ordinary Seaman; died 11th Sep
tember, 1841, River Niger.
. Ordinary seaman; died 31st Octo
ber, 1841.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
X Died on the second ascent of 'Wilberforce' under Lieut. Webb.
H H 2

468

APPENDIX.

Name.
Richard James
William Lucas

*George Cuthbertson
William Jones
Daniel Bloomfield
John Bealey, alias Veley
William Ford
John Osborne
Samuel Hill
Thomas Roberts
William Day ,

Rank.
Ordinary seaman.
Boatswain's mate.
Marines. Serjeant; died Ilth October, 1841,
on board, off Prince's Island.
Private.Private.
Private. Private.
Corporal.
Private. Private. Private.

William Martin .
James Cotter
?William Rabling .
Henry Rosemergy

Sappers and Miners.
. Second Corporal (Lance Serjeant.)
Private.
. Private; died 14th December, 1841,
at the confluence.
. Private.

Coloured Men entered in England.

Place born.
Barbadoes .
St. John's, America
Gambia
Jamaica Haussa
Jamaica Cape Coast

Name.
tJohn Garner
% James Case .
JJohn Dennis
tWilliam Scott
tJames Peters
$ William Jackson
fLewis Asasa

Rating.
Captain's steward.
Able seaman.
Able seaman.
Ship's cook.
Ordinary seaman.
Engineer's servant.
Ordinary seaman.

* Died from river fever or its effects.
t Escaped the river fever.
t The fever with which these men were attacked in the river
assumed the character of intermittent : they had previously had
remittent fever on the coast before entering the river.

APPENDIX.

469

N.B. — The 'Wilberforce' lost, after leaving England, John
Morley, carpenter's mate, and Henry Halbert, able seaman,
(a coloured man;) the former was drowned at St. Vincent, Cape
de Verde Islands, on the 10th of June, 1841 ; the latter died on
the coast of fever on the 23rd of July, 1841. Another coloured
man, David Wright, seaman, died of apoplexy on the 22nd
July, 1841.

Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel 'Soudan.'
List of European Officers and Crew, and of Coloured Men entered
in England, who were onboard Her Majesty's Steam- Vessel
' Soudan' when she commenced her ascent of the Niger on
the 20th August, 1841. Officers.

Name.

Rank.

*Bird Allen .

. Commander; died 25th October, 1841

Fernando Po.

William Ellis

. Lieutenant.

John Belam

. Master.

*W. B. Marshall .

. Surgeon; died 21st September, 1841,

River Nun.

*H. C. Collman .

. Assistant-Surgeon; died 6th October,

1841, Fernando Po.

W. H. Webb .

. Mate.

F. W. Sidney .

. Mate and Assistant-Surveyor.

*Nicolas Waters .

. Clerk in charge of provisions; died

2 2nd September, 1841, River Niger.
*William Kingdon
. Assistant Clerk and Schoolmaster;
died 13th of October, 1841, River
Niger.
G. V. Gustaffson
. Engineer, 1st class.
William Johnson
. Engineer, 2nd class.
* Died from river fever or its effects.
470

APPENDIX.

Name.
?Christopher Bigley
John Perram
William Strain
*John Kirrens

*John Whittaker .
*Charles Levinge .
John Davis
*William M'Lackland
Cornelius Trower
*John Young

* James Thomas
John Straman
John Wood
Henry Dennis
* James Hill .

Ship's Company.
(Europeans.) Rank.
. Stoker; died 2nd October, 1841, Fer
nando Po.
. Stoker.
. Gentlemen's steward.
. Stoker; died 27th September, 1841,
Her Majesty's brigantine 'Dol
phin,' on passage to Ascension.
. Quarter-Master.
. Captain's steward; died 9th Sep
tember, 1841, River Niger.
. Captain's coxwain.
. Sailmaker; died 24th November, 1841,
in ' Warree,' on passage to England.
. Stoker.
. Quarter- Master ; died 27th September,
1841, Her Majesty's brigantine
' Dolphin,' on passage to Ascension.
. Carpenter's crew; died 21st Septem
ber, 1841, River Niger.
. Able seaman.
. Gunner's mate.
. Boatswain's mate.
. Gun-room steward; died 25th Sep
tember, 1841, Her Majesty's brigan
tine ' Dolphin,' on passage to As-

Hugh Isaacs
Richard Pitham
John Hibberd
Philip Tyack

Corporal.
Gunner, Royal Marine Artillery.
Private.Private.

* Died from river fever or its effects.

APPENDIX. 471

Coloured Men entered in England,
Place born. Name. Rating.
Dominique, West Indies John Gray . Sick-berth attendant.
Tortola, West Indies . Michael King Purser's steward.
Gambia, Africa . . *George Lee . Able seaman.
St. Thomas, Africa . flames Vaux Able seaman.
N.B. — The 'Soudan' lost, after leaving England, Richard
Edwards, Purser's steward (a coloured man) who was drowned
at sea 20th May, 1841.

* Escaped the river fever.
+ Had remittent fever in the river, but not of the same kind as
attacked the Europeans.

ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

Where to be
found.

Report of Sir
E. Parry of the
14th Nov.,
1839.

First Cost.

1.

Cost of the two larger vessels, including
engines, masts, rigging, sails, anchors,
cables, and fixtures . . . £24,000
Cost of the small vessels, including the
same. .... 6,750

£30,750

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
of 25th Feb.,
1840.

. For each vessel, one complete suit of
spare sails and of awnings, and a set
of side awning curtains, and a che-
vaux-de-frise, and an additional spare
cable, and fitting the boilers, and hoop
ing them with wood.
Mr. Laird has engaged to supply the fit
tings, if approved by the Admiralty,
for

£753

£753

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
of 25th Feb.,
1840.

Recent improvements in regard to steam-
vessels, viz., for the three vessels : 1st,
a boat over each paddle-box, as in the
' Firefly ;' 2nd, Seward's gauge for

Carried forward

£31,503

OBSERVATIONS.

473

First Cost.
] . The estimate for this item has
been laid before Parliament. It is
inserted here only to aid in com
bining in one view the whole esti
mated expense of this expedition.

2. Sir Edward Parry is of opinion
that these additional equipments are
necessary for the service.
Mr. Laird made the first suit of
sails, and Sir Edward Parry thinks
it advisable that the second suit
should be made by the person who
made the first, provided he will supply
them at the same rate at which they
are supplied from the dock-yards.
Sir Edward Parry added to the esti
mate first made by Mr. Laird, " I
consider this tender to be reasonable
and proper."

3. Captain Trotter supposes
that the paddle-box boats will
cost from . . £300 to 320
Seward's salt water gauges . 40
Mr. Laird estimates the ex-

On actual reference to
the builder's estimate for
contract, it appears that
the expression here used
is liable to misinterpreta
tion. The cost of these
additional equipments was
to have been 903?.; but
Sir E. Parry having con
sidered unnecessary cer
tain articles, including or
dinary fittings, amount
ing to 1501., the saving
thereby accruing in the
first item was carried
down towards the expense
of the additional articles
forming Item 2, and the
expense of these was
stated at 7531., or for
the two items, 31,5032.
Mr. Laird now, however,
by a letter which Captain
Trotter has handed in}
marked A, says that these
additional articles will
cost 10462., instead of
9032., thus making the
additional expense to be
contemplated under the
two items, 8962., instead
of 7532., being 1 432. more.
Captain Trotter thinks it
would be at any rate de
sirable that Mr. Laird

Carried forward, £360

474 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
found.
 Brought forward . . £31,503
ascertaining the saltness of water in
the boilers; and 3rd, a break or com
pressor for paddle-wheels, as fitted in
the 'Gorgon' and 'Cyclops f . £700 to 1000
 £1000

Estimate sent 4. Portable boats made in compartments for
T ^t C| wl" *^e PurPose °f being used occasionally
Feb., 1840. ^ palanquins, &c. for crossing rivers,
when the commissioners are employe4
on land journeys, according to the plan
of Sir Wm. Symonds, Mr. Consor, Mr.
Wermysey, as may be considered most
expedient, the expense of which can
not be exactly ascertained, about . £300

£300

Carried forward . . . £32,803

OBSERVATIONS.

475

Brought forward, £360
pense of the compressors for the
paddle-wheels, together with an
apparatus for discharging hot
water from the boilers, at . 240
Captain Trotter wishes in ad
dition, fittings-up of compasses
on Professor Airy's plan for
counteracting the effect of local
attraction . . . *300
Captain Trotter states it
would be essential to lay down
oil-cloth between decks to pre
vent the necessity of wetting
the decks, the expense of which
he estimates at . . 1 00

£1000

should even at the pre
sent cost, make the che-
vaux - de -frise, and felt
the boilers, and from the
experience he has had of
Mr. Laird, he believes the
increased estimate is in
other respects likely to be
correct. See on this point Cap
tain Trotter's letter of
March 26th, 1840, and
Mr. Laird's therein in
closed A.
* Mr. Laird estimates
these at 1002. for each
vessel.

4. If the Commissioners are to be
employed on land journeys, these
portable boats may be most useful.
It does not appear that they would
otherwise be requisite. One boat,
however, will be wanted as a life
boat ; and this should be a superior
boat. As we apprehend that the Com
missioners are not to be employed
on land journeys, we recommend that
the life-boat only be got under this
item of expenditure.
Captain Trotter presses for an
additional number of tents, in which
to put his men under cover on shore,
thus separating the sick from those
in health.
The camp equipage in Item 8, is

Under the observa
tions on the other half of
this page, this item would
be thus modified :
For one superior life
boat, from 802. to £100
For additional

campabout

equipage,

200

£300

476 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
FOUND- Brought forward . . £32,803

Estimate sent S. Two small portable high-pressure steam-
in by Captain engines, to be adapted to circular
Trotter 25th , f • j-i-
Feb 1840 *aws *or Procurlng a more expeditious
supply of fuel for the steamers whilst
up the river, and also to be applied
to propelling a fan for the ventilation
of the vessels, and for many other
useful purposes, the exact expense of
which cannot be correctly estimated,
about .... £600
 £600

Carried forward . . . £33,403

OBSERVATIONS.

477

estimated at 2202. It comprised
3 marquees and 4 tents, and some
other equipments. Captain Trotter
is desirous of having this doubled, or
nearly so, and we think the request
is reasonable.We recommend it therefore for
approval. 5. Upon particular inquiry upon
this head, we find that Mr. Brumel,
whose authority may be deemed of
great weight, is of opinion, that cir
cular saws attached to a portable
steam-engine, would be so liable to
get out of order, that the machine
would be useless for the purpose in
tended. Mr. Laird is also of this opinion,
and says that the ventilation fan
may be worked by two men by
hand. Under these observations, Captain
Trotter wishes to omit the portable
steam-engines, and the more particu
larly as it is found, after minute in
quiry, that the plan of Dr. Reid for
ventilating the vessels may cost much
more than he was led to anticipate.

Mr. Brumel approves
the plan of ventilation
proposed by Dr. Reid, as
explained by Mr. Laird ;
and under the observa
tions on the opposite half
of this page, this item
would be thus modified :
For fans for ventilation,
and wheels for each ves
sel, estimated by Mr.
Laird at about 352. each
say . . £105
For tubes for
each vessel for
ventilation, about
1002. each . 300
For additional
fittings up, say 95
For expenses
of Dr. Reid, in
cluding remune
ration to him for
his services . 100

- £600
It may here be ob
served, that in the Expe
dition of Messrs. Laird

478

ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

Where to be

found.

Brought forward

£33,403

Estimate sent 6. For ventilating the steam-vessels on a
in by Captain plan proposed by Dr. Reid, for which
Trotter 25th , . , , . ,
Feb. 1840. ne nas no"; been able to propose an
estimate; also for various other con
tingencies which cannot possibly be
ascertained at the present time, about £1,000 1,000

Carried forward . . . £34,403

OBSERVATIONS.

479

6. Captain Trotter, on being asked
what remaining contingencies on this
head were to be expected, so far as
he could now calculate them, men
tioned that as there were apparently
some rocks at Bonssa, which it would
be easy and desirable to remove, in
order to clear the passage, he should
require blasting tools for that purpose.
Item 1st He estimates the
blasting tools at about . £140
Item 2nd. Diving-helmet
and apparatus . . 100
Item 3rd. He thinks it
would be expedient also to
have instruments for examin
ing the channel, and deter
mining points of shoals and
shores; and he estimates
these, on the computation of
Captain Beaufort, at 1002. for
each vessel . . . 300
Item 4th. He estimates
the expense of journey of the
Commissioners to Liverpool
and elsewhere on service, at 200
Item 5th. For additional
fittings in the cabins for the
Commissioners, he requires
about .... 117

and Oldfield to the Ni
ger, extreme inconveni
ence was occasioned by
the bad ventilation of the
vessels. Good ventilation.
is, therefore, an impor
tant point to provide for.

702. have already been
expended, but not
paid on this service.

Carried forward

. £857

Where to be
found.

480 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Brought forward

. £34,403

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
17th Dec,
1839. DittoDitto

Ditto

Summary of
the above
attached to
estimate by
Mr. Bafflie.

7. Presents .... 3,000
8. Camp equipage . . . 220
9. Mathematical and philosophical instru
ments . . . 313

10. Miscellaneous, including books, maps,
and musical instruments

Ten per cent for packing and contin
gencies Total first cost

209
£3742 374

£4,116

£38,519

OBSERVATIONS. 481

Brought forward . . £857
Item 6th. And to pro
vide for the excess now esti
mated in Item 2 of first cost,
there will be required . 143

£1,000
Items 7, 8, 9, 10. The estimate for
these items has already been under
your Lordships' consideration. We
insert the estimate here for com
pleting a view of the whole expense
of the Expedition, and we put the
items separately, because Captain
Trotter now asks an additional sup
ply of articles comprized in one of
them, viz., that of camp equipage.

VOL.

1 c

Where to be
FOUND.

482 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

Twelve Months' Expenses.
Stores.
Report of Sir 1 . Gunners', carpenters', and boatswains'

E. Parry of
14th Nov.,
1839.

stores for six months, for the three
vessels .... £2,000

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
of 25th Feb.,
1840.

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
of 5th Feb.,
1840.

To complete the above-mentioned stores
for twelve months, Sir E. Parry's esti
mate, only including a six months'
complement of these stores. To be
supplied from Her Majesty's Dock
Yards' and Ordnance Department .

3. Engineers' stores for twelve months, to
be supplied from Her Majesty's Dock
Yards

2,000

£4,000

1,000

1,000

Estimate of
Admiralty of
6th May, 1840.

Carriage of boatswains', carpenters',
and engineer's stores

355

355

Carried forward

£5,355

OBSERVATIONS.

483

Twelve Months' Expenses.
Stores. 1. This item was in the estimate
already laid before Parliament

2. It is indispensable to complete
the estimate for this item of supply.
Captain Trotter states, that the esti
mate first made of these stores is
rather under the average of those
supplied for six months, to vessels
of the same size as the vessels here
in question. But that the additional
sum will be sufficient to cover the
deficiency of the first estimate, and
to complete the supply for such
period as may be expected to elapse
before the return of the Expedition.

8. The engineers' stores, it ap
pears, were overlooked in the esti
mate first made. This estimate is
drawn up according to supplies al
lowed under Admiralty regulations
to vessels of the same size as these ;
and Sir Edward Parry approves of
the estimate.

Captain Trotter repre
sents at the same time,
that for felling wood for
fuel, he will require ad
ditional axes and cross-
saws ; the expense of
which, he finds on in
quiry, will be £150
And he requires
some more spades,
plug - bolts, and
tools of that de
scription, as by
List marked E,
amounting to . 90
The provision
for this expense is
accordingly made 
under Item 16, £240

4. In order that the steam-vessels
may not be overloaded in their pas
sage across the Atlantic, it appears
desirable that the spare stores should
be sent to Africa in other vessels.
The estimate of the expense has been
made at the Admiralty.

i i 2

484

ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

Where to be

Estimate of
Captain Trotter
of 25th Feb.,
1840.

Stores — continued. Brought forward
5. Medical stores for twelve months, in
cluding various other necessaries,
wine, &c. ....

300

£5,355

300

Estimate of 6. Coals to be sent to Lisbon, 225 tons at 25s. £281 5

Admiralty of
6th March,
1840.

„ Teneriffe or Cape Verds, 225
„ Sierra Leone . 450
„ Fernando Po . 750
„ Ascension . 450

34s. 382 10
44s. 990 0
54s. 2025 0
55s. 1237 10

2,100 tons

With an addition of about 5s. per ton
for delivering the coals into stores,
making the total expense

£4916 5

£5438 0

5,438

Carried forward

£11,093

OBSERVATIONS.

485

Stores — continued.
5. The Physician-General has es
timated the necessaries, bedding, and
wine, for three vessels :
With 214 men, at £114 12 11
And the medicines, at 44 14 3

£159 9 2

But Captain Trotter observes, that
the estimate of the Physician-General
is made only for twelve months; and
owing to the state of water in the
river, or to accidents, the Expedition
may be detained out another season ;
and 2nd, that it is very desirable
to have a large supply of medicines
to dispense to the natives.
We think there is" force in these
observations.

6. It appears that this estimate
does not take in all the coals wanted,
viz., those at Liverpool and at Fal
mouth. Mr. Laird estimates those
needed for trial at Liverpool, say 60
to 75 tons, at 16s. . . £60
From Liverpool it will be
as well to take in enough to
carry one not only to Wool
wich, 160 tons, but to Fal-

Under the observa-'
tions in the opposite
page, this estimate will
now stand at £4750 15
Viz.,
For trial at Liverpool, £ s.
75 Tons, at 16s. 60 0
Take in at Liverpool,
240 Tons, at 16s. 192 0
To take in at Falmonth,
220 Tons, at 20s. 220 0

Carried forward

£60

Carried forward £472 0

486 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
 ' Stores — continued.

Brought forward . . £11,093
Cost of 150 tons put on board three
steam-vessels at Woolwich . 140 0
 140
Total for Stores, £1 1,233

Carried forward . . £11,233

OBSERVATIONS.

487

Stores— continued.
Brought forward .
mouth, 80 tons more, 240
tons, at 16s
At Falmouth, 220 tons
Welsh coal, at 20s.

£60

192

220

£472
But, on the other hand, Captain
Trotter does not intend to touch at
Ascension on his outward passage, so
that half the sum estimated for coals
there will be saved, viz.,
Cost of 225 tons, at 55s. £618 15
And estimated expense of
delivery, 225 tons, at 5s. . 56 5
And, on reconsideration, he
thinks that 500 tons will
be sufficient supply at Fer
nando Po. The saving in
this case will be 250 tons,
at 54s  675 0
And 5s. per ton for de
livery . . . . 62 10
To this is to be added,
the coals calculated on being
taken in at Woolwich, but
which will not be wanted
under the above arrange
ment . . . . 140 0

Brought forward £4 72 0
To take in at Lisbon,
225 Tons, at 25s. 281 5
To take in at Teneriffe
or Cape de Verds,
225 Tons, at 34s. 382 10
To take in at Sierra
Leone, 450 Tons, at 44s. 990 0
To take in at Fernando
Po, 500 Tons, at 54s. 1350 0
To take in at Ascension,
225 Tons, at 55s. 618 15

4094 10
5s. per Ton for deli
very on 1625 Tons 406 5
10s. more on 500 Tons
at Fernando Po 250 0

4750 15

Making a saving of
And deducting from
this the amount taken
in at Liverpool and
Falmouth . 472

1,552 10

Carried forward £472 £1,552 10

Where to be
found.

488 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Brought forward

£11,233

I Report of Sir
i?- E. Parry of
"r 14th Nov.,
1839.

Phovisions, 7. Ordinary provisions for 155 men for
twelve months

2,648

Admiralty
letter of 2nd
March, 1840.

8. Carriage of provisions and slops
to Cape Coast . . £396
Ditto ditto, to Fernando Po. 330

Carried forward

726
£3,374 ¦

£11,233

OBSERVATIONS.

489

Stores — continued.
Brought forward £472 £1,552 10 s.
And an additional
expense at Fernando
Po (for Capt. Trotter
finds on inquiry that
the cost of delivery
into store at Fernando
Po* will be 15s., in
stead of 5s., so that 10s.
per ton must be added
for the expense of the
500 tons to be taken
to Fernando Po .

250

There will remain still a
saving in the estimate of . 830 10
Say, in even numbers, a
saving of . . . . 800 0

* See paper marked K.

722 0

Provisions. 7. The estimate for this supply has
already been laid before Parliament :
but it is here to be observed, that the .
sum of 1,1462. for Ordnance provi
sions, included also in the estimates
delivered in on that occasion, should
be omitted, as it is included in this
estimate.

This 8002. may go to
wards the additional ex
penses of the Kroomen,
provided the Government
agrees to that additional
expense.

8. Captain Trotter thinks it desir
able to send the provisions, as by
estimate, to Fernando Po; but he
thinks the sum estimated for sending
them by cost of freight to Cape Coast,
may bejnore advantageously applied

490 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
 1_ Provisions— continued. Brought forward . . £3,374 £11,233

Sir E. Parry's 9. Preserved meats and soups (for the sick) .1,104
Report of 14th
Nov., 1839.

Captain 10. Additional expense for the occasional
supply of preserved meats and vege
tables, to be issued in lieu of the salt
provisions .... 500

Trotter's esti- supply of preserved meats and vege-
Feb. 1840. tables, to be issued in lieu of the salt

Total for provisions . . £4,97t>

Salaries and Wages.
Lord John 11. Salaries to Commissioners and Secre
te Treasury of *ary> an(* additional allowance to
20th Dec., Chaplain and Head-Surgeon . 4,000
1839.

Carried forward . . £4,000 £16,211

OBSERVATIONS.

491

Provisions — continued.
to this service, if part of it were ex
pended in sending them only to Sierra
Leone, and he were allowed with the
remainder to hire or purchase a vessel
at Sierra Leone, to take them on
with him to the mouth of the
Quorra. He states that the sum esti
mated will cover the expense of this
altered arrangement likely to be use
ful to the Service.
9. In the estimate laid before Par
liament, it was stated by mistake,
that this supply was meant for the
sick. It should have been stated,
that it was to be served out to the
crew, instead of salt provisions.

10. In consideration that it will
be feasible up the Quorra to purchase
fresh provisions at a low price, Cap
tain Trotter is of opinion, that this
sum may be struck out, and that the
sum of 1,1042. in the previous esti
mate will be sufficient for this item.
We recommend that it should be
struck out accordingly.

This 5002. may go to
wards the additional ex
penses of the Kroomen,
if that additional expense
should be sanctioned by
the Government.

Salaries and Wages.
11. This item is estimated at 4,0002.
in the letter of Lord John Russell,
already laid before Parliament.

492 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
POUND. o l • i TTT
 balanes and Wages — continued.
Brought forward . . £4,000 £16,211
Re" ort Voi7ith 12, Wagesfortwelve months for 155 men,
Nov., 1839. officers, and crew of the three vessels. 7,898

Captain 13. Siim required to make up double pay
Trotter's esti- to the officers and crews of three
mate of 25th , T , ... , ,
Feb. 1840. steam-vessels. Lord Mmto having
been understood to agree to such an

Carried forward . . £11,898 £16,211

OBSERVATIONS.
Salaries and Wages — continued.

493

12. This is an estimate already
laid before Parliament. Captain
Trotter requests us to observe, how
ever, that he considers it would be
very desirable to have, 1st, an addi
tional assistant-surgeon for each of
the larger vessels ; 2nd, a portion of
Marine Artillery instead of Marines,
as artificers are generally found in
that branch of the service ; 3rd, eight
Sappers and Miners, as he anticipates
the expediency of blasting rocks at
Boussa; and, 4thly, an additional pay
to three officers— one to each vessel —
for laying down shores and shoals.
Captain Trotter observes at the
same time, that the whole of the
7,8982. will not be wanted for the
purpose stated in Item 12, because
some of the officers to be employed
are now on half-pay, and the amount
of their half-pay will be saved.
He states that the additional ex
pense under these heads will be
balanced by the diminution above-
mentioned. He estimates the excess
here asked for at . . £16,594 8
And the diminution at 1,651 0
13. We think that this is no more
than a reasonable compensation for
arduous service in a fatal climate, and
under the consideration that there
will be no hope of prize-money.

The particulars of the
statement of Capt. Trot
ter, as to the excess he
requires, and the saving
he contemplates, are
given in his letter of the
26th March, 1840, and in
the accompanying papers,
marked F, G, & H.

Sir Edward Parry ap
proves of the alteration
in the complement of
officers and men here sug
gested, and carried out in
papers F, G, and H, ac
companying this esti
mate; and he believes
that the computations in
those papers, as to the
allowances to be given
under the suggestions is
proper, and the calcula
tions of the savings which
will be effected is accu
rate.

494

Where to be
FOUND.

ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

Captain
Trotter's esti
mate of 25th
Feb., 1840.

Captain
Trotter's esti
mate of 25th
Feb., 1840.

. Salaries and Wages — continued. £11,898 £16,211
Brought forward
arrangement, in a conversation which
he had with Mr. Buxton . . 7,898
1 4. Additional pay to engineers when steam
is up within the Tropics, agreeably to
Admiralty Regulations; say for six
months .... 675
15. Wages and victuals for 64 Kroomen, or
other African sailors, to be entered at
Sierra Leone, and to be employed
during the stay of the Expedition in
Africa (say for nine months), 11 of
these men to be paid as stokers, or
1st class petty officers, the remaining
53 as able or ordinary seamen, or
landsmen, as may be deemed expedient 1,942
N.B.— It has not been considered necessary
to give the Kroomen double pay, but to have
the power of giving them better ratings than
they usually have in men-of-war on the coast
of Africa, to ensure getting the best descrip
tion of men, as there will be no inducement
of prize-money.

Carried forward

£22,413 £16,211

OBSERVATIONS.
Salaries and Wages?— continued.

495

14. Sir E. Parry approves this
estimate as being according to Ad
miralty regulations.

15. On reflection and further in
quiry, Captain Trotter wishes to
correct this item. He thinks it
essential that he should have the
power to hire 120 African sailors,
instead of 64 ; so that he may have
some to spare by whom to send in
timation of occurrences from place
to place; also to head the vessels on
their passage with a view to sound
ings; also to help in case the vessels
get a-ground. He estimates at about
14,0002. the additional expense, con
sequent on this additional number of
men. We think his request worthy
of consideration.
Captain Trotter also thinks, on
account of the great temptation held
out to the Kroomen to leave the Ex
pedition in the course of its proceed
ing, he should have authority to
promise that such Kroomen, and
perhaps interpreters, as remain with
him to the end, and have during the
whole Expedition behaved faithfully,
should have one month's wages as a
gratuity on their return with him.
And, on looking at the events of

Mr. Lewis, who has re
sided at Sierra Leone, and
knows the Kroomen, con
curs in this observation.
Major Sabine, who knows
them, concurs also in it.

496 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.
Where to be
 ' Salaries and Wages — continued.
Brought forward . . £22,413 £16,211

Captain 16. For the payment of interpreters and
Trotter's esti- tne purchase of canoes, &c, on the Coast of
mate of 25th . - . , . . .,
Feb. 1840. Atnca, and tor various other contingencies
which may not have been anticipated, or
which it is impossible^accurately to estimate,
about . . . . 2,000

Total of salaries and wages . . £24,413

Total of twelve months' expenses . . £40,624

OBSERVATIONS.

497

Salaries and Wages — continued.
the last Expedition up the Niger,
feeling that the Expedition might
suffer from the departure of the
Kroomen, we think that Captain
Trotter's suggestion ought to be
adopted. As the gratuity will only be given
to those Kroomen who return to
Sierra Leone, after having behaved
well, Captain Trotter thinks that the
expense, including a gratuity of the
same nature and amount to the i
terpreters, will not exceed 2002.
Of the 1,6002. thus required
in excess, provision will be
found in the saving for coals,
Item 6, for . . . £800
And in Item 10, on the
saving for provisions . 500
And in Item 16 for the
remaining . . . 300

£1,600

16. Captain Trotter thinks that at
least twelve interpreters ought to be
engaged at Sierra Leone. Some of
these will be got at a low price, but
some may require a considerable
price to induce them to leave their
business or trade.
He estimates the wages and
victuals of these interpreters
together at . . - ^700

We have made inqui
ries upon this subject
from Mr. Lewis, who has
long been a resident at
Sierra Leone, and that
gentleman entirely bears
Captain Trotter out in
the statement.

Carried forward

£700

VOL. I.

K K

498 ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES.

OBSERVATIONS.

499

Salaries and wages — continued.
Brought forward . . £700
Captain Trotter states that
the canoes should be in great
number, to give facilities in
case of the vessels running
aground, and that he shall
require some small funds for
the contingency of buying a
shell of a vessel at Sierra
Leone to carry to the mouth
of the Quorra.
He requires for these objects 300
He estimates the expense
of taking care of stores and
provisions at Fernando Po,
and elsewhere, at . . 220
To make up the pay to the
additional number of Kroomen 100
And for the gratuity to
Kroomen and interpreters . 200
For additional saws and
axes, and entrenching tools,
for which see Item 2, and
List E. 240
For an additional clerk,
1002. to 130
And for stationery and
small articles . . HO

For this item see the
accompanying letter from
Captain Trotter, with the
enclosed memorandum
from Mr. Blunt, Chair
man of the Fernando Po
Company, K.
See observations on
Item 15.

£2,000

500 OBSERVATIONS.

Abstract.

First Cost.

Build and ordinary fittings . £30,750
Equipments necessary for this service . 4,469
Presents, and packing ditto . . 3,300

£38,519

Twelve Months' Expenses.
Stores . . . . £11,233
Provisions . 4,978
Salaries and Wages , 24,413
 £40,624
Total . . . £79,143

OBSERVATIONS.

501

Memoranda of Items reported in this Paper.

First Cost.

No 2 .

£753

„ 3 .

J, 000

„ 4 .

300

„ 5 .

600

„ 6 .

1,000

£3,653

Twelve Months' Expenses.

No

. 2

2,000

3 .

1,000
4
355
5 .
300
6
5,578
8 .
726
10
500
13
7,898
14
675
15
1,942
16
2,000
£22,974
Total
£26,627
502

OBSERVATIONS.

Brought forward .
Items, the amount of which
has already been laid before
Parliament.

£26,627

First Cost.
No. 1 .

30.750

Twelve Months' Expenses.

No. 1 .

2,000

7

2,648

„ 9

1,104

» H ¦

4,000

„ 12 .

7.898

£48,400

Items previously considered by
Lord John Russell, but not
laid before Parliament.
First Cost.

4,116

£79,143

(Approved) W- E. P.

(Signed) J. P.
J. B.

VITAL STATISTICS OP THE EXPEDITION
AT ITS CLOSE.

Statistical Account of the Cases of Fever that actually
occurred on board H.M.S. Albert, (including Amelia tender
and Model Farm), Wilberforce, and Soudan, while the vessels
were in the Niger: showing also where the deaths took place*.

H.M.S. Albert, including Amelia Tender and Model Farm.
Albert in the river 64 days.

Number of officers, white seamen, marines,

and sappers .....

62 1

Of whom were attacked with fever in the

Niger ......

55, or 1 in 1-127

Died on board the Albert

9

„ Wilberforce

1

„ Soudan

1

„ Dolphin

4

„ Merchant ship Warree

1

Died at Fernando Po Sick Quarters

6

„ Royal Naval Hospital, Ascension

1 = 23

Ratio of deaths in total number victualled

1 in 2-696

„ in number of cases .

1 in 2-391

Men of colour of various nations entered

in England ......

15X

„ attacked with fever in Niger

6, or 1 in 2-500

Blacks entered on the coast

76

„ attacked with fever in river .

0

* These Tables are wholly irrespective of the ships to which the
officers, seamen, &c, belonged. They are intended to denote on
board of what ships they were first seized with fever : and in what
ships, or where the deaths took place. Without some plan of. this
nature, it would be impossible to convey a clear idea of the vital
statistics of the expedition; seeing that at the Confluence the distri
bution of the crews of the squadron was considerably changed.
t Adding Captain B. Allen, Mr. Webb, mate, and William Mc-
Lauchlan, sailmaker, of Soudan, who joined before the Albert left
the Confluence to proceed upwards, and were taken ill immediately
afterwards: also Mr. Kingdon, schoolmaster, and Mr. Ansell, col
lector, who were received on board in a dangerous state from fever,
when the Albert was at the Confluence on her way out of the river,
and deducting Lieut. Fishboume. ,,,.,, , ,
+ Adding one received at Confluence when the Albert was descend
ing the river.

504 VITAL STATISTICS
H.M.S. Wilberforce ; in the River 45 days.

Number of officers, white seamen, marines,
and sappers .....
Of whom were attacked with fever in the
Niger 
Died on board the Wilberforce
„ at Fernando Po Sick Quarters
Ratio of deaths in number victualled
„ in number of cases .
Men of colour of various nations entered
in England .....
„ attacked with fever in Niger
Blacks entered on the coast

56*48, or 1 in 1-666
61=7 1 in 8-000
1 in 6-857
7t 3, or 1 in 2-500
39

H.M.S. Soudan; in the River 40 days.

Number of officers, seamen, marines, and

sappers ......

n%

„ attacked with fever in Niger .

27, or 1 in 1-000

Died on board the Soudan

5

„ Wilberforce

1

„ Dolphin

4=10

Ratio of deaths in total number victualled

1 in 2-700

Men of colour entered in England .
„ attacked with rever in Niger

3

2, or 1 in 1-500

Blacks entered on the coast . . ^

18

* Deducting Mr. Ansell.
t Deducting the officer of colour received on board Albeit at Model
Farm. % Including Lieut. Fishbourne, who joined her at the Confluence,
before descending the river..

OF THE EXPEDITION AT ITS CLOSE.

505

Statistical Summary deduced from the

«8

*2

above Tables.

U

^:

g

§
13 El
'jJ
3
*
CO
Eh
Total number of whites ....
62
56
27
145
Cases of fever among ditto
55
48
27
*130
Deaths among ditto
23
7
10
40
Number of blacks .
91
46
21
158
Cases of fever
6
3
2
11
H.M.S. Wilberforce an her return to the Coast in 1842.
Died of fever
Wilberforce' s Second Voyage up the Niger in July, 1842.
Number of whites on board
8
Number attacked with fever .
7, or 1 in 1-140
Deaths in number on board from after
effects ......
2, or 1 in 4-000
Ditto in number of cases ....
1 in 3-500
* Names of those who escaped the Fever in the Niger.
Albert. William Stanger, M.D., geologist, suffered afterwards from
intermittent in England.
Theodore Muller, Chaplain, left the river at the Confluence.
Charles Hodges, Serjeant, Marines, was frequently unwell after
wards from head-ach, but was a good deal relieved by ulcers
breaking out in the legs.
Morgan Kinson, P. Marine, died of gastritis at Fernando Po.
John Huxley, sick-berth attendant, had a severe fever seven weeks
after leaving the river at Fernando _Po.
William Lamb, mid-steward, ditto, ditto.
Archibald Yair, sick-berth attendant, left at the Confluence in
Soudan, and was quite well throughout.
Wilbemorce. William Cook, Commissioner, left the river in
Wilberforce.
James N. Stange, Lieutenant (now Commander), ditto, ditto.
Morris Pritchett, M.D., Surgeon, ditto, ditto.
James F. Schon, Chaplain, ascended to Egga in Albert.
T. R. H. Thomson, Assistant-Surgeon (now burgeon), lett the
river in Soudan. Suffered much from intermittent fever on his
return to England, . .
John Stirling, Assistant-Surgeon, left the river m the Soudan.
Walsh, carpenter's crew, left the river m the Wilberforce.
Douglas, mid-steward, ditto, ditto.
506

VITAL STATISTICS.

Deathsfrom
fevercontractedon
thecoast
„ „ intheriver
Accidents
......
Othercomplaints.....

>CDt-ta
05 CDao 3
hi, CDB
CD B

-3

M OS :

to
t— i

Officers, including Engineers.

>p a
£s5*
a b-
? EL
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§-£
DR. STANGER'S GEOLOGICAL REPORT
TO THE
AFRICAN CIVILIZATION SOCIETY.

In the following notes, scanty in consequence of the unfortunate
circumstances under which the country was visited, I beg leave
to communicate to the Society, the geological phenomena which
came under my notice, during the exploration of 340 miles of
the river Niger, from the mouth of the Nun branch of that river
to Egga.
The Delta, a flat tract, composed of clay and sand, in some
places containing mica and much vegetable matter, extends 120
miles up to Eboe. The banks in this part are elevated only a
few feet above the level of the river, and the country in the
interior is swampy. Within the reach of the tidal waters,
mangrove trees abound and a few palms, but beyond this point,
the surface is covered with dense forests of the Bombax, and other
large trees. From the mineral character of the soil of this part,
I prognosticated granite would be found in the upper part of the
river. From Eboe to Iddah, a distance of 100 miles, there is a
gradual rise of country, and the land is higher on the sides of
the river, but still very swampy, and the soil of the same character
as in the Delta. There are no hard rocks in this part of the
country, the cliffs of Iddah being the first which occur. These
cliffs are 185 feet high, (barometrical measurement,) and are com
posed of sandstone, the strata of which are for the most part
horizontal, but occasionally dip at an angle of 3° S.E.*

* Along the west coast of Africa, at Accra, and perhaps Sierra
Leone and Monrovia, is a sandstone of the same character, which at
Accra is horizontally stratified, and may possibly be connected with
the same rock as that observed on the banks of the Niger.

508 dr. stranger's
The sandstone is fine granite, and composed of transparent
particles of white quartz. The upper beds are highly ferrugi
nous. The strata are cut through by joints running in all direc
tions. In a cave north-east of Iddah, the sandstone occurs in
horizontal strata, and shows well the appearance of false stratifi
cation, being cut across diagonally and very regularly by nume
rous parallel lines, having the appearance shown in the section A ;
between the diagonal lines, there is a thin layer of peroxide of
iron After very careful examination, only one obscure fossil,
having some resemblance to a Pollicipes, was detected in the
sandstone. The cliffs of Iddah are formed by the outcrop of a
ridge of hills running N.E. and S.W.
From Iddah to Kirri, the country is composed of the same
sandstone, which is more or less ferruginous in places, and which
forms elevated table-lands, bounded by cliffs and masses of
debris. At Kirri, mica slate occurs, dipping at an angle of 85° west.
These strata on the right bank stand up in high masses, having
the appearance of leaning walls. Opposite Kirri, in the bed of
the river, is the "Bird rock," which is a mass of white quartz,
evidently embedded in the mica slate. From Kirri to Adda-
Kudda, the hills are granite, on the south side of which the mica
slate rests, but the point of junction from the river could not be
seen. These hills, which have been called the "Kong Moun
tains," do not attain a height of more than 1200 feet, of which
Mount Soracte appears to be the highest. Beaufort Island is of
granite, much decomposed on the surface, which is rough from
the projection of felspar crystals. This granite contains little
mica, and is composed of felspar and quartz, with a small quantity
of hornblende. The blocks of granite are piled one upon
another like masonry, and the soil between them is a rich loam.
At Okaze, the granite is large crystalline, and contains very
beautiful opalescent felspar.
At Adda-Kudda, the granite is mixed up and complicated with
gneiss, which generally dips at an angle of 60° to the south.
The granite forms veins running into the gneiss in all directions.
and in some places the granite contains embedded masses of
gneiss.

geological report. 509
From Adda-Kudda up the river, as far as examined, the
sandstone occurred in horizontal strata as before, but generally
more highly ferruginous.
At Stirling Hill, the peroxide of iron occurs in great abun
dance, in form of "pea-iron ore," of a very beautiful character.
Mount Patteh, which is 1160 feet high, is the commencement
of the table-land "on the north side of the granite," which
ppears to be the character of the country above this place.
From the preceding facts the following conclusions may be
drawn :
The granite is the central axis, mica slate and gneiss occurring
on each side and dipping at great angles.
The sandstone lies unconformably on the mica slate and gneiss,
as shown in the ideal section of the river.
The phenomena observed indicate three geological periods.
1st. The eruption of granite and elevation of mica slate and
gneiss. 2nd. The deposition of the sandstone unconformably on the
flanks of the mica slate and granite.
3rd. The upraising of the whole country, and the cutting
through of the granite and the sandstone ; the destruction of which
at a more recent period, would afford the materials for the
formation of the Delta, such as we now find composing it.
(Signed) Wm. Stanger.

end OF VOL. I.

LONDON :
Printed by Schulze and Co,, 13, Poland Street.