YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1940 Kirkbie-Kendall, Westmorland. w mirkbie*1kenfcall. FRAGMENTS COLLECTED RELATING TO ITS ANCIENT STREETS AND YARDS ; CHURCH AND CASTLE; HOUSES AND INNS. JOHN F. CURWEN, FELLOW OF THE ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS. AUTHOR OF " SIZERGH CASTLE," " LEVENS HALL," " WORKINGTON HALL," ETC., ETC. FLOREAT CANDALIA. KENDAL: Printed and Published by T. Wilson, 28, Highgate. mdcccc. The Contents. INTRODUCTION- Page. I Definition and Early History Roads and Coaches - 13 River Kent ; Floods and Rainfall 21 Population - 25 II. SOUTERGATE— Finkle Street to Lowther Street 27 White Hart Inn to All Hallows Lane 60 Cripplegate, All Hallows, Beast Banks, and Race Course 80 III. SOUTERGATE, Continued— Lowther Street to Colonel Square 93 All Hallows Lane to Blindbeck 127 IV. KIRKLAND— Blindbeck, Capper, High Front to Watch Field 153 Nether Bridge to Cemetery - 196 V. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH— Early History and Notes - 201 Restoration of 1829 222 Restoration of 1850 226 Pulpit, Seats, and Organ - - 237 Stained Glass, Monuments, and Bells - 245 Rectors and Vicars - - 260 VI. CONTENTS. VI. STRICKLANDGATE— Crown Inn to Entry Lane - - - 267 Finkle Street to Moot Hall 289 Moot Hall, Town Clock, Market Cross, and Pillory 292 St. George's Chapel, Stocks, and Market Place - - 297 The Fell Side - - 310 VII. STRICKLANDGATE, Continued— Entry Lane to House of Correction 317 Market Place to Strickland Place - 340 Kendal Fell Lands, Dockwray Hall, and Kendal Green - 356 VIII. THE FINKLE— Soutergate to Kent Street 365 Stricklandgate to Branthwaite Brow 377 Miller Bridge to Goose Holme, New Road, Aynam & Canal 380 IX. STRAMONGATE— Down to the Bridge 389 Wildmangate and Doodleshire 413 Railway to Dodding Green 421 X. THE CASTLE— Early History 427 The Ruins 441 ERRATA " For the Booke I'le say, if there be errors in't, The world had not known them, but for th' Print." — Barnabee. Page 5- 5- 9- 13- rg. 20.23- 3i-78. 171.igg. 247.260. 332- 383- Line 10. — For " watch camp," read " sentry post." 10. — For " Norman," read " late Norman." 30. — Insert "r" in " cheeful." g. — Read "at the end" instead of "in the beginning." 20. — After "Stricklandgate," insert the words "foot, the entrance to." 30. — For " 1857," rea-d " I852." 2. — The sentence, "At Colonel walk" to "their copperas," is wrongly placed as it refers to the 1831 flood. 10. — For " 1804," read " 1802." 26. — For "sixty," read "seventy." 3. — After " 1680," read " Rev. William Lancaster for five years until his death in 1730." 12. — For " filled," read " subscribed." ig. — Insert " r " in " barulets." 12. — At the head of list of Rectors insert, " — 1215 Adam of Kendal. Fourth Abbot of Holm Cultram from 1215 to 1223, deposed therefrom for reckless extravagance." 26. — For "112" read "108." 30. — For "114" read "112." 31. — Insert a "," after "down." PREFACE. FELLOW-TOWNSMEN, to you who have learnt to love and look with pride upon this Borough wherein we live, whose glory is its age, and whose history is enwrapt with that deep sense of voicefulness in almost every stone ; to you who can, standing upon the shoulders of time, inhale the spirit of those men who have spent their life's existence to build it up and make us what we are, I wish to dedicate these pages. But in doing so, I aim at so arousing your natural interest as to gain an answer to these two appeals ; and the first is this: — Our town's real name is Kirkby Kendal, signifying the " Church town in the Kent dale," a name which carries with it the fact that it is not only of Saxon origin, but that it has grown up around its ancient Church. Alike with the Church town in the Lune's dale, these two existed before the Norman Conquest, these two alone in Southern Westmorland ; and yet, whilst Kirkby Lonsdale has retained the full glory of its name, we in Kendal — shall I say in sloth, or for what other reason? — have allowed the distinctive name of Kirkby to disappear, step by step, comparatively only- within recent years, and certainly without authority. But can there be no revival ? To you, then, who love your ancient Borough I make this first appeal, that in all documents, print, postal, and other communications we reinstate the name. And there can be no difficulty in so doing, for the Post Office authorities recognise the name. The second is this : — The Society of Arts in London and other people elsewhere now recall to visible memory the locality in which their celebreties dwelt, by erecting circular tablets on the walls where such were born, lived or died. And have we none to whom honourable memory is due ? We who have a whole string of Kendal worthies. Would not the cost of such tablets be as nothing compared with our pride of them ? I venture to appeal then for this also,— that our naturalists may have visible knowledge of the houses wherein John Gough and William Hudson were born ; and the merchant where Sandes X. PREFACE. sat by his desk ; that the enterprising youth may learn of Dr. Shaw, the artist be able to point to the house of Romney, and the legal student to those of Alan Chambre and John Bell ; that the scholar may know of Anthony Askew, and the school boy remember that in his grammar school, Ephraim Chambers and Edmund Law were educated. So with others in like manner, that all these great men, though dead, may yet be called to life as it were, to speak to us encouragement by an ever present voice. " If indeed there be any profit in our knowledge of the past, or any joy in the thought of being remembered hereafter which can give strength to present exertion or patience to present endurance, there are two duties " incumbent upon us, whose importance it is impossible to everrate — the first to render the lives of those who have paved the way before us historical, and the second to preserve as the most precious of inheritances, all that is good and noble in the record of past ages. Now as to the book itself ; may it please you to understand that its object is to primarily deal with the town's buildings alone and with the lives and stories directly connected with them. I have sought to carefully draw the line against all the general history of its inhabitants, manufactures, charities, etc. And further, I desire to emphasise the fact that I cannot claim to be an original writer on these subjects, but only a collector and compiler of innumerable MSS. and papers— and therein lies my liability to record many errors calling for amendment ; for the which ignorance I claim excuse and can only rely upon the townsmen of to-day informing me concerning the same, that such may be corrected in any subsequent edition that might be called for. " This observation have I found most true Erring, I karne mine errors to subdue." — Barnabee. For my dates I have resorted to Bartholomew Noble's MSS. of 1736 and Wharton's "Chronology," which was commenced in 1724, continued by Pennington till 1802, and by John Taylor till 1823. But, naturally, my main stay in this has been the most excellent " Local Chronology " compiled in the year 1865 up to the year 1850 by the two newspaper editors. Fortune has moreover, possessed me with the late Alderman John Fisher's original MSS relating to the " Old Houses of Kendal ; " and his indefatigable coadjutor the PREFACE. XI. present antiquary of Kendal, Mr. Thomas Jennings, has with infinite pains and trouble placed at my disposal his large store of local information. I have also to acknowledge my great indebtedness to our " Annalist," Cornelius Nicholson, and to Miss Nicholson for the loan of some of his MSS. ; also to Mr. Titus Wilson for his personal remembrances, to D.K.K.'s " Person's and Places in Kendal," to Mr. Rushforth's " Short History of the Parish Church," and Mr. DeRome's MSS. on the " Roman Catholic History of Kendal." Lastly, it is with considerable pleasure that I here acknowledge my many extracts from Mr. John Watson's admirable articles on our " Local Inn Signs." But yet a great amount of information about our ancient Borough must still be hidden in the many title deeds and documents buried away in the safes of our landlords, which, could they be looked through, might bring to light many an old name of street, yard, or house of which we have at present but little idea. The present book, therefore, is only an attempt to bring together the information that I have been enabled to glean of the history, romance, and legend that is in danger of being forgotten ; and to so arrange it, not chronologically, but in the order as the houses range themselves along our streets. JOHN F. CURWEN. Horncop HaU, Kendal, 1900. 1. The Introduction. " A straggling burgh, of ancient charter proud, And dignified by battlements and towers. Of a stern castle, mouldering on the brow Of a green hill — " (Wordsworth). 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CT» O VO M 00 O^Cu cn 4^ Co COCn vO -M CTv CTivO M VO M Cn 4- OMcnCu UM O CTivO Cu m CO OOVO Co -h CT1C0 VOvOCn M(_nCo4^ to CTirt 00 CT>vO m CTi 00 004* vo O^t-iCuvO CT11- tO 04^Cu 004*. o -^ > CO O 3i7 12,028 1871 6,405 7,037 13,442 18S1 6,499 7, '97 13.696 1891 6,875 7,555 !4,43o Note.— This last figure includes the labourers temporarily resident here during the con struction ofthe Manchester Waterworks. We must now pass up into the town to examine in detail, as far as possible, and step by step, each of the older houses which have stood throughout so many changes— a silent witness to the townsfolk of bygone years. II. Soatepgate, OR The South ^oad. " Quaint old town of toil and traffic, Quaint old town of art and song ; Memories haunt thy pointed gables, Like the rocks that round them throng." 29 SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. THE land by the river side, saturated with the constant overflow of the rapid stream, was far too swampy to permit of the town's main road — North and South — passing along it. So that those who passed too and fro, being mindful of the ague, chose the higher and harder ground on the west side, and thereon they built, filling in and solidifying a number of footpaths down from this highway to their works on the river banks. In this we see at once the origin and cause of our many yards — footways down to the stream or up to the common land on the fells — which were by the gradual embankment of the river and the enclosing of the fell made available, by degrees, for building purposes. This Higherway, or Highgate, became known and designated in the days of Good Queen Bess, and in the Boke off Recorde, as the South or Soutergate. Until 1803, the entrance to this main thoroughfare was New Biggin. divided by a building called the "New Biggin," which commenced opposite the Town Hall, and extended northwards some 30 yards in length, and was 9J yards broad. On the east side, the passage was just wide enough for a wheeled conveyance to pass through ; but, on the west, there was only space sufficient for foot passengers to walk along its cobbled pavement. This curious erection, according to a document found at the time of its removal, was built about the year 1500. It was mostly a timber building, with the upper floor supported by 29 strong oak beams, projecting so as to form a gallery on the north and west sides and a roof over the shops on the east side. In 1782, the shops were tenanted as follows : — Facing south, C. Askew, glazier, with a horsing stone at the south-west corner ; next to which was Mary Hodgson's meat and pot shop; then William 3° KIRKB1E KENDALL. Kirkby, another butcher ; with a bacon dealer, whose name is lost, adjoining — to all of which the fronts were set back beneath a pent roof, with the usual unglazed, but wooden-shuttered windows. Adjoining was the house of Dr. Kitchen, with a room on either side of the entrance, brought forward to the front of the pent roof, with glazed windows ; and lastly, Thomas Lonsdale's ironmongery shop, which extended round the north front to the stone steps that led upward to the gallery. On the west side, above some small dwellings, was a large room called the " Cord- wainer's Hall," belonging to the last incorporated body of tradesmen in the town. It is not difficult to realise the abiding nuisance that this obstruction must have been to the traffic of the town ; and it becomes a pleasing duty to record how that the good Lady Andover, ever anxious to work for the welfare and interests of Kendal, repeatedly declared that if Lord Lonsdale would but take a torch and set fire to his end of the building, she was quite ready to do the same to her's. But it would seem that the Earl, having no great love for the town, which he could never politically subdue, was relentless in his opposition. Accordingly it remained until his death in 1803, when it was instantly given over to the Corporation by his successor and the Hon. Mrs. Howard, in order that its obstruction might be at once removed: Unfortunately, Mr. Hogg and his camera were not there at the time to take an accurate view of the building, so that we must be forever indebted to John Richardson for his drawing taken from memory in 1845 at the age of 71 years. It will be seen that his perspective is far from being good, in that he makes the cramped western passage appear as if it 1. — White Hall. 2.— Wheat Sheaf. 3.— Angel Inn. 4.— Victory Inn. 5.— James Cocke. 6.— Jackson's Yard, 7.— Commercial Inn. 8.— Dolphin Inn. 9.— Black Horse and Rainbow Inn. io.— Kii.ner Hall. 11.— Rofbuck Inn. 12. — Golden Fleece Inn. 13. — Old Shambles. 14.— Exchange Inn. 15.— White Hart Coffee House. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 31 were a boulevard, and his shading lines on the east elevation are so scarce, that the feehng of the lower story, retreating some four or five feet beneath its pent roof, is lost altogether. The New Biggin (East Side.) Bi Before, the street was just wide enough, so it is quaintly said, to keep people straight as they went home in the dark; but by the removal of this ancient budding the thoroughfare became, as the Newcastle papers at that time said, one of the largest and most spacious streets of any town in the North of England. Commercial Hotel. lt is' however> necessary to retrace back a few steps in order to notice the " Commercial Hotel," which was built in 1804, when Mr. Maskew was " mine host." It stands upon the site of the ancient "Royal Oak Inn," owned by John Fletcher in 1746 and which, like the " Golden Fleece " opposite, had the facade supported on wooden posts. On the property being rebuilt, the sign of the "Royal Oak " was transferred to what had previously been known as the " Butchers' Arms," at the head of the Old Shambles. James Webster was the innkeeper during the great election of 1818, and remained so until the inn was put up for sale on the 27* day of August, 1824, together with the "two valuable shops, a good dwelling house, and a news room adjoining the said inn on the north and fronting on to Highgate, and now in the several occupations of Alderman Dobson and Joseph Garnett as tenants." As a sign the Inn has ever hung out in a most tempting way a bunch of 32 KIRKBIE KENDALL. grapes, an emblem one would suppose of the good wine within ; but it has always seemed to me that the grapes must have been peculiarly tantalizing to the " Fox and Goose " across the way, unless indeed, their sagacity recognised that " the grapes were sour." At that time, every inn, by Act of Parliament, was obliged to hang out a sign, which now, through ages of creaking and groaning, have mostly fallen into decay. Kendal and Leeds Coacb. In the prime era of coaching — circa 1820 — the " Royal Liverpool " coach started to run from here, in opposition to the " Good Intent," which had for nine years held the road from the " King's Arms " to Whitehaven. And in 1826, the " Independent," an express coach, stopped here from Car lisle to change horses and replenish the inner man. But, oh ! the hurry there must have been over that replenishing, so hastily performed to the accompaniment of the guard's post horn, relentlessly pro claiming imminent departure. Fac simile of Coaching Advertisement. This coach likewise was in opposition to the " Robert Burns," which ran from Glasgow or Edinburgh right through to Liverpool or Manchester, putting up to change horses at the " Crown Inn." Great rivals, indeed, ofthe first water, but even they for a short time had to face the deliberate opposition ofthe " Defiance " and the " North Briton," which by the way they managed to do with such good effect, as to bring the latter two coaches into amalga mation with them soon afterwards. MR. FISHER BEGS to inform COMMERCIAL GENTLE- MEN, his Friends, and the Public generally, that he has made arrangements with the Proprietors of the old original KENDAL and LEEDS UNION COACH, which will on and after Wednesday next, the 15th inst., be Removed from the Kiso'a Abms tothe Commercial Hotel, from whence it will start at a Quarter to Eight a.m., at VERY REDUCED FARES. Arrives at the Royal Hotel, Leeds, at Five P.M., in connection with the Trains to York, Hull, &c. 8rc, Performed by Fisher, Outhwaite, Wood, Hall, BhaDley, &c. Commercial Hotel, Kendal, 1 December tOtli, 1841. ( Westmorland House. The large premises, now taken by the County Club, were erected in 1854 upon the site of four very small shops, which have been well depicted by the late Richard SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 33 Stirzaker, as a background to the famous election scene of 1818. This picture, now at Dallam Tower, represents the entrance of Lord Lowther into Kendal in one of Dunn's Lancaster and Kendal coaches. It is an animated street scene, the coach having just drawn up, with its boisterous band of drum and brass instrumentalists seated on the top, and with one or two others none the less exubriant in the waving of their Lowther banners. But to us, concerned here more with the old appearance ofthe town than with such jovial company, the most interesting parts of the picture are the rough cobbled-road paving and the old shop frontages behind. The first two shops next the "Commercial" are occupied by Dowson, printer and bookseller, with Stubbs, the painter and gilder's premises above. Then, on the southern side of a narrow entry known as Brumwell's Yard and beneath a lottery office, is Dowson's genuine tea and coffee shop. An epithet perhaps more needed in these latter days than then. Behind, on the sloping ground, where Thos. Head afterwards built his residence, stood an old building of some 300 years, which had formerly been of considerable splendour and importance, but subsequently fell into utter ruin. In the old deeds it is first named " Holly Hill," but subsequently it became the head hostelry ofthe town, and was'known as " Fox's Inn," being owned by a certain William Fox, one of the principal inhabitants of Soutergate in 1575. And so great was the fame of this house that a country fellow might as well return from London without looking into the face of Royalty as for a traveller to pass through Kendal without alighting here " to wet his whistle." It was here that on the 3rd day of August, 1616, Sir Augustine Nicholls, the "Just Judge," died. To his "renowned memorie " a monument is erected in the Parish Church and another in Faxton Church, Northamptonshire, where he was born, and where a traditional story still goes that he was poisoned at his inn by four witches of Kendal. The figures of Justice, Fortitude, Prudence, and Temperance placed on the cenotaph at Faxton are accountable for this " pretty compliment " paid to the womankind of Kendal ; for, if the witches among us were represented by the four cardinal virtues, how good our good have been. However, the inn that witnessed this traditional scene has since then passed through many vicissitudes, the history of which is almost entirely lost. 34 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Before the coaches enlivened the road its doors were closed, and vast empty- ness reigned alone. About the year 1780, one, Jonathan Robinson, gathered around him a somewhat famous school in a few of the rooms, which he kept until his death in 1816. History records him as being a man "skilled to rule and stern to view." " But past is all his fame, the very spot,' Where many a time he triumphed, is forgot." Years after, one of the upper rooms was rented as an Independent Metho dist Chapel, by George Robinson, a hosier and grocer in Kirkland, who died in 1845, and still later by another religious body — the Mormons, or " Latter-Day Saints." An adjoining room, once most resplendant, was rented to a tailor for a workshop, and on the ground floor John Fisher had his carpenter's shop. But enough — " 'T were long to tell, 't were sad to trace, Each step from splendour to disgrace.'' Down Brumwell's Yard were also the old-established works of a tallow chandler conveniently adjacent to the Butchers' Rows, and from the Cumberland Pacquet for September 16, 1794, I gather that they were to let as a well-going concern by the owner, James Teasdale, the tallow from upwards of thirty butchers being contracted for. When Parker & Head bought the front premises in 1853, they also bought up this property. Before passing on, I would wish to say a word or two concerning Richard Stirzaker, to whom we owe so much for the faithfulness of his old Kendal paintings. He was born at Lancaster in 1797. When twenty years of age he came to Kendal, and for some time held a position in the office of George Webster, architect. As this sedentary occupation did not suit his feeble health, he left to open a drawing school in his house at Kirkland, and also became the drawing master at the Friends' School. His pencil and brush were ever busy, and it was during this period — say, 1820 to 1828 — that he painted most of his best-known Kendal pictures. Subsequently he removed to Manchester, and soon after died at the early age of 36 years. Amongst his best-known pictures are : — SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 35 " Lowther's Entry into Kendal (1820)." " King's Arms Hotel (1823)." " Interior of Parish Church." (Two views.) " The Conflagration of Dockwray Mills (1824)." " Underley Hall." (Two views.) " Old Shambles (1825)." _. The present premises of the Kendal Bank stand upon the site of one of the last remnants of the old Butchers' Rows, which remained here in its primitive condition, with old-fashioned windows and oaken front, until demolished for this very substantial building erected in 1873. The open stalls or benches from which the Rows took the name, were arranged beneath pent roofs on both sides of Soutergate, those on the east extending from Finkle Street down to the Whitehall, and those on the west almost down to the foot of All Hallows Lane. They continued as such till 1779, when the Old Shambles were built « to accommodate the butchers, and Highgate was remodelled after the demolition of the New Biggin. So long, however, as these stalls continued, the barbarous custom of bull- baiting prevailed, and the butchers seldom ventured to slay a bull unless it had been publicly baited. If any did so, he had to hang a sign-board out, by official order, with "bull-beef" inscribed upon it, or burn a lighted lamp so long as any unbaited beef remained unsold, or in default be subject to a fine of 3s. 4d. However, in consequence of repeated accidents to those who ventured too near the maddened animal, the custom was suppressed by the Corporation in 1791. Here is an extract from the account book of Robert Dixon and Joseph Symson, the Corporation Chamberlains : — 1756. Fines for Selling Bull Beef without Baiting. £ ¦• d. Jany. 31 — Edward Williamson, butcher ... 034 Feby. 7 — Thomas Robinson, yeoman 034 ,, 14 — Jonathan Ellworth, yeoman 034 ,. 21 — Thomas Wilson, carrier 034 „ 28— William Crookson, butcher 034 March 6 — A stranger for a Sizergh bull 034 (j I3 — William Cookson, butcher 034 April 4— Thomas Ward, butcher ..... ...» 034 36 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The bull ring was formerly placed in a stone block on the top ofthe Beast Banks, to which the poor animal was fastened by a rope running through a ring in its nose. In this fashion, amid its dreadful bellowing, it was baited and bitten by savage dogs until exhausted. Large numbers assembled to witness this "sport," their consciences relieved by the thought that the beef was thereby improved, an aged bull being deemed especially tough unless well baited before slaughtering. Taking hold of and shaking the bull ring was tantamount to throwing down the gauntlet as a general challenge to a fight, and not infrequently the fairs and market days were signalised in this way by pugnacious fellows. But to return from this digression to the site of the Bank. Next to the County Club that now is, was a wide entry leading into a very steep lane known as Jackson, the wire drawer's Yard, and against this came the butcher's shop of Matthew Scarr, beneath its pent roof. As was usual, the windows were unglazed ; each protected by two wooden shutters divided horizontally, so that the lower half could fall downwards to act as a table for the meat, whilst the upper half was hinged upwards against the ceiling, when not required to close the window for the night. The rooms above the shop were of the lath- and-plaster kind, so common in olden days — fortunately, not extinct yet — and the woodwork, rough-cast, and glazing of the ancient-looking windows gave the whole front a most picturesque appearance. Within, Miss Walker presided over the largest and most noted circulating library in the town. The terms for the use of the books were not so high as might have been expected at that remote period, being only twopence per volume for the week's loan ; and there is every reason to believe that the library exercised a very powerful influence upon the reading portion of the inhabitants of Kendal for many years. Adjoining was the shop of George Lyon, one ofthe most fashionable boot and shoe makers of that day, over which Dolly Metcalf lived, but before her day it was the tenement where the Rev. Thomas Carter, D.D., Dean of Tuam, was born ; and next again to this was the shop of James Webster, a tailor and draper, who, it is said, spoke with a voice reduced to the lowest whisper; whilst above a certain Jackson had his abode. This dual kind of house was far more common in the last century than one can well imagine, and frequently it led to strange difficulties when any structural alterations were needed. A sale could not be effected without the consent of both owners. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 37 The two first banking establishments in the town were both founded simultaneously on the ist day of January, 1788, viz. : — "Wakefield's Bank" in Stricklandgate, and " Maude, Wilson, & Crewdson's Bank " in Stramon gate. In 1840 they were amalgamated under the title of "The Kendal Bank," which has now become a branch of " The Bank of Liverpool, Limited." For their earlier histories I must refer the reader to the old banking premises in Stricklandgate and Stramongate. KENDAL BANKS. WE, the Undersigned Inhabitants of the Town of Kendal, having the most perfect confidence in the Stability of the Bank of Messrs. Wilson, Crewdson & Co., and also in that of Messrs. J. Wakefield & Sons, in consequence of the opulence and prudence of the Partners in the said Firms, do voluntarily pledge ourselves not only to take their Notes in Payment, but also that we are willing to guarantee Money lodged in either of the said Banks to any Amount. As witness our hands this 13th Day of February, 1826. The credit of these Banks has from the first been of the highest order, financial crises have come and gone and left them unshaken. One of these, which occurred in 1826, it may be of interest to refer to. It was known as the " paper panic," during which many flourishing banks throughout the country came to ruin. The two Kendal Banks, however, received the shock bravely ; and I have in my possession an interesting advertisement, signed by the Mayor, Vicar, Senior Aldermen, and some 150 inhabitants, declaring : — " our entire confidence in the sta bility of the two houses, and trust that they will continue the circulation of their notes for the accommodation of the public ; and we pledge our selves to receive the same in the regular course of business to any amount." Indeed, tradition says that the farmers had a strong superstitious preference for a "Jacky Wakefield note " over the sovereign gold itself. Geo. Forrest, Mayor John Pearson Thos. Cookson & Son Jos. Braithwaite Robert Benson Jos. & Jno. Atkinson Thomas Reveley Jas. Sinkinson M. & R. Branthwaite Isaac Rigge Francis Webster Zephaniah Banks Thos. Harrison,. Sur. J. Hudson, Vicar Anthony Ycates George Yeates A. Shepherd, Shaw End John Newby R. Greenhow & Co. Smith Wilson ) Simpson & Ireland I T. Wilson & Sons John Ireland G. & M. Gibson Thomas Greenhow E. Tatham, Solicitor T. H. Maude, Esq. James Gandy & Sons 1. & W.Wilson Isaac Whitwell Daniel Harrison William Geldard I. Wilson, Solicitor John Gaskarth Tonathan Hodgson j. Ireland & Co. Richard Rawes Printed by Tyras Redhead, Gazette Office, Kendal. Reduced copy of Handbill. 38 KIRKB1E KENDALL. The original premises on the site adjoining to the south was at one time occupied by Alderman James Cocke's house and the " Victory Inn." The former had a cock stained into the glass of one of the windows representing the family arms. James Cocke was Mayor in 1653, and gave to the Corporation the very curious old clock now in the Museum, which bears the inscription : — " The guift of James Cocke, Maior in Kendall, 1654, to the Maior of the same Sucksesiuely. Time Runneth — your work is before you." His son James was likewise Mayor in 1681, and issued half-penny tokens in 1667. Messrs. Rhodes inform me that there still remains (now at the back), an old entrance door with a label attached " licensed to sell pepper and tobacco," which doubtless, is the original door of the " Victory Inn." At the beginning of this century, William Fisher (the great uncle to Alderman Fisher) owned the property, and lived here with his daughter, who carried on her " mantua " and fancy dress business, advertised in the Carlisle Journal to commence on the 24th June, 1801. William Fisher rebuilt the premises of hewn limestone in 1812, and at that time it was considered to be the first attempt in Kendal to erect an imposing shop front. It is from here that the electric current fires the time gun at one o'clock each day — a gun which is placed in the Serpentine Woods, and lent by the War Office to the Corporation. It is an 18-pounder, measures nine feet long, and weighs 42 cwts. The agreement between Her Majesty's Postmaster- General and Messrs. Thomas and Edmund Rhodes for the provision and maintenance of wires and apparatus for the transmission of the Time Current is dated May 13th, 1873. But it did not come into operation before the following 5th of September. Before clocks and watches were as common as they are now, a bell, being a survival of the old curfew, was the guide by which the inhabitants knew the time of day. In summer, it was rung at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., and in winter the hours were from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., except on Sundays. The sexton rang about a quarter of^an hour each time, and as a conclusion, always tolled the.day of the month by so many distinct sounds. Probably, when in 1582 James Leyburne, of Cunswick Hall, gave his clock to the town of Kendal, the first blow against this ancient custom was given, although it prevailed at more or less irregular intervals up to Easter of 1877. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 39 x ,* 1 j Adjoining to the south is the " Angel Inn," still standing, with all its records of ancient tale and gossip, although greatly modernised. Tradition says that the earliest " Angel Inn " was situated in a batch of old building somewhere behind the present "Commercial Inn," and approached through a narrow entry long ago removed. It further says that some 100 years ago it was managed by an old man named Bland, who, with his daughters Grace and Prudence, carried on a prosperous business there. After the death of the old man the daughters kept on the business till Prudence died, when the sign was removed to its present situation. A wag, on the closing down of the old house, wrote with chalk upon the fastened door, as follows : — " Prudence and Grace dwelt in this place, An angel kept the door ; Prudence is dead, the Angel fled, And Grace has turned a . . . ." There is attached to this house a legend that when the rebels marched through Kendal some of the followers of "Bonnie Prince Charlie" rushed into the inn, and that the family, in their flight, left in one of the passages a child, which was there found by the soldiers ; but standing over and guarding it was an angel, in whose hand was a drawn sword. A pretty legend, with its sequel, that the intruders, taking this as a sign that the house was under Divine protection, left it without despoiling any of its contents. The inn, which formerly had its entrance next Messrs. Rhodes' shop, was a favourite resort for carriers and pack-horses, having extensive stabling, and from here in 1829 the coach started for Newcastle. Of the many odd characters connected with this inn, I can only stay to mention old John Robinson. He kept a saddle-horse here for many years, but never rode it, for if he went a journey his custom was to lead the animal the whole way, with the oft-repeated answer that he would ride it " by-and- bye." If asked by an acquaintance for the loan of his " Rosinante," his ready answer came — " I have no time to go with thee to lead it." In like manner, old Robinson kept several pointer dogs. He bought up every gun that had the character of being a good one, and he annually took out a licence, but he never went out shooting, although he was always going to "by-and-bye." His plan of future operations as a sportsman had not left him at the age of 85, 40 KirKbie Kendall. for a few weeks before he died he procured a number of new bags for bringing home his game, "by-and-bye." Away up in that innocent-looking, box-like erection on the roof, between those flanking diamond chimneys, is an apartment entered only by way of a trap-door in the garret, eight feet square, at one time lighted by four windows, and with seats still existing around two sides. There would seem to be no doubt that it was originally constructed as a Columbier, or pigeon cote. For it must be remembered, that in the middle ages fresh meat could only be procured during the summer ; turnips, mangel wurzells, and other green crops were unknown ; hence the majority of the oxen and sheep were slaughtered and salted down at the beginning of winter. The old German name for November was Slagtmonat or slaughter-month, and the Anglo-Saxon name was Blodmonath or blood-month. Anything, therefore, that could vary or palliate the monotony of salted meat or fish, was a luxury to be envied. Hence we have the fish ponds and stews, in which carp and tench were assiduously fattened for the table ; and the warrens of conies and large pigeon houses, in close proximity to the abodes of the great and wealthy, of the castle, the convent, and the manor house. So likewise, the Angel Inn would require such a Columbarium, if it desired to retain its customers, and keep pace with the other principal places of entertainment. In latter years when such a need existed no longer, the apartment became a most suitable place, away from prying official notice, wherein our Corinthians could congregate, with their game cocks trimmed for fighting. It is certain that cock-fighting was a favourite pastime in Kendal from an early period. Even during the Commonwealth, when all public amusements were rigorously interdicted, if we are to credit tradition, Kendal owned its cock-pit. Shortly after 1712 we find "covered cock-pits" attached to many ofthe principal inns; the arena in those of earlier date being uncovered. At first, the sports were carried on at very short intervals throughout the season, but by degrees the principal attendance concentrated in the race week, when the fighting was introduced under more imposing auspices. The " mains " were fought and patronized by persons of the highest rank and station, at all events up to the close of the XVIIIth century, without any impeachment of their refinement or humanity. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 41 Wheat Sheaf Inn. AdJoining to the south was Nat Tyson's grocery shop, now occupied by Mr. Birkett, and further on the "Wheat Sheaf," the site of which is now occupied by the Municipal Buildings. In the last will of Edward Whitehead, dated 23rd day of July, 1732, we find the bequest of " all that tenement lately purchased by James Ashburner, and formerly known by the name of Scale Hall, and now by the name or sign of the Wheat Sheaf." Town Hall The Present Town Hall stands upon the site of the ancient White Hall, a name which may have been taken from the manufacture of a white cloth— White Cloth Hall— as in a poem of the " Battle of Flodden Field," the brave men of Kendal seem to have been coated with such stuff. " The left hand wing, with all his route, The lusty Lord Dacres did lead ; With him the bows of Kendal stout, With milke-white coats and crosses red. These are the bows of Kentdale bold, Who fierce will fight and never flee." Some accounts say that this hall also bore at one time, the name of the Leaden or Leather Hall. The front projected with two wings, the windows were stone mullioned, and the ample staircase was of stone. A Robinson of Rokeby Hall, connected by marriage with the Tolsons of Tolson Hall, lived here and carried on an extensive trade in London, exporting Kendal cottons to Virginia and the West Indies. His relative, Thomas Tolson, would probably charter the return ships, for he tells us that he built his residence out of money made by dealing in tobacco, and caused painted and inscribed glass to be put in the windows in 1638 to commemorate the fact. How the Corporation became the possessors, the first time, and at what date, I cannot find any note of. But in 1825, a joint-stock company purchased the site from them for £"1,380 with shares of £"55 each, and built thereon a news room and lecture hall, with ball, card, and billiard rooms attached, at a total cost of £"6,000 completely finished. The foundation stone was laid by the Mayor, Michael Branthwaite, and a copy of each of the local news- 42 KIRKBIE KENDALL, < X f- S 5 h Iz.'X SOuTerOate or The south road. 43 papers and of the Corporation arms, printed on satin, were enclosed in a glass bottle, and deposited under the corner stone. * In 1853, Mr. Edmund Rhodes took a wonderful bird's eye view photo graph from the top of the Beast Banks, through a camera made by himself out of an old cigar box ! It is the earliest known photograph of Kendal, and is chiefly valuable for its representation of the old cupola on the top of this roof. I regret exceedingly, that my publishers find it impossible to get a satisfactory reproduction of this excellent photograph for illustration. These Assembly Rooms were repurchased by the Corporation for £2,250 in 1859, when they were converted into the Town Hall, and the basement fitted with lock-up cells. There being no tower to the White Hall to receive the new clock presented by John Wakefield, it was decided to pull down the old cupola and erect one for its accommodation. Concerning which, there seems to have been con siderable discussion as to its right position — i.e., whether it should be central or placed at the north-west corner, where it might have been seen down Stricklandgate as far as the Museum. However, when it was ultimately built in 1861, at a cost of nearly £"600, it seems to have been universally approved, and described as a handsome structure ; about 13 feet by 10 feet, rising to a height of 85 feet from the pavement. The clock had four plate-glass dials, illuminated with gas, turned on and off by the movement of the clock itself. The first hour was struck on Sir James Lowther's bell, at one o'clock on Saturday, the 21st day of December, 1861. A new flag-pole was also erected, standing go feet in height, and raised its flag on the ist of November to celebrate the election of the new councillors. Within the last few years the Corporation has acquired the adjoining properties above mentioned, and on this enlarged site, it has almost entirely rebuilt the Town Hall, at a total cost of £22,000. The tower now contains a new clock and eleven bells. The large tenor weighs 2 ton 4 cwt. 1 qr., and bears the following inscription : — " These bells were bequeathed to the inhabi- tatST of Kendal by Alderman William Bindloss, Mayor, MDCCCXCV." The following mottoes are inscribed on the other ten bells, which vary in * This glass bottle and contents were recovered on digging out the foundation for the New Clock Tower. f By some error this word has been cast without the "n." 44 KIRKBIE KENDALL. THE OLD TOWN HALL. THE WHITE HALL, REMODELLED IN 1859. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 45 weight from 30 cwt. to 4 cwt., namely:— 2, Justitiam et Honorem Colant Omnes ; 3, Deum laudo, Vivos voco, Mortuos plango ; 4, Honos alit Artes ; 5, Honos est praemium Virtutis; 6, Nihil semper Floret, Aetas Succedit Aetatem ; 7, Omnia fert Aetas Animum quoque ; 8, Ring in the love of truth and right ; 9, Ring in the common love of good ; 10, Omnia Jovan Laudant Animantia; 11, Nobis Solamen det Deus. The daily chimes ring out their five-finger exercises as follows : — Sunday "Devotion." Monday " Kelvin Grove." Tuesday " British Grenadiers." Wednesday "Poor Mary Anne." Thursday " When the King enjoys his own again." Friday "Garry Owen." Saturday "There is nae Luck about the house." The bell on which the old town clock struck the hours now hangs outside the Police Station, and is used as a fire bell, at whose clang the fire brigade and engines turn out ; and, " woe betide the person a-bed whose house is on fire — if not sleeping in a mackintosh." In olden days a bell used also to be rung on a market day to signify that permission was then given to the farmers to sell the produce of their dairies. Kirkby Kendal as a Borough has received three Royal The Corporation. y r ' . 5 / Charters ot Incorporation. The first was granted by Queen Elizabeth on the 28th November, 1575, the second by Charles I. on the 4th of February, 1636, and the third by Charles II. on the 15th December, 1684 ; the originals of which are still preserved. The inhabitants who, in the first instance, petitioned Elizabeth had a fair claim upon her as being contributing tenants as well as liege subjects. The Queen was the lady of the manor, holding in her own right that portion of the barony formerly possessed by William Parr, Marquis of Northampton. Moreover she pocketed all the fees for tollage, markets, fairs, stallage, weights and measures, worth some £io a year. She also received the yearly rent of the demesne of the Castle and Park, which was valued at £64 14s. od., and from the tenants at will, in the New Biggin, she took £4 3s. od. a year. 46 KIrKbIe KeMdalL. The details of this charter for " the keeping of our peace and the ruling of our people " can be found fully set forth in many local books, so that I need not mention here more than that the main provisions enacted that there should be "a body corporate and politick," consisting of an alderman and twelve capital burgesses in perpetual succession. That beside these there should be two officers of justice called Sergeants-at-Mace, and a Recorder who, with any three of the burgesses, shall hold a court of record for the hearing of all manner of pleas, actions, suits, and demands not exceeding £20. Power was also given to make and maintain bye-laws, and all " fynes and amercyments " were to be truly sent to the Queen's Exchequer. Many are the strange cases in which this First Seal of the Corporation. power was exercised. Beside the bull baiting fines already referred to, fines were imposed for any persons, he, she or they, giving, preparing and providing suppers, feasts or drynkings in any private house or houses on the occasion of weddings, kyrkings, nutcasts, applecasts, or merry-nights if more than " three measses of ffolkes " (12 persons) were assembled on such occasions. Another bye-law enacted in 1577, that no inhabitant should suffer any person not free of the Borough to dwell and remain in any " house, chamber, or lofte within the precincts of the town," under a penalty of 20s. Fortunately trayelling was at that time very difficult, or else the distant relations would find this law forbidding them to come and stay with their friends in Kendal very hard upon their peaceful intentions. The alderman and burgesses appear to have had two official cloaks each, one a " playne clothe gowen off black or off some other sad colour," which was worn with " a round black cap on his head, moost comonlye on all Sondayes in the year and on all holye dayes, lykewise when the wether is ffayr and uphold"; and another called "their best vyolet gowne," which they were ordered to wear on " chief festival days, ffayres, and play days." In certain " Orders made by the Mayor and Aldermen " about 1643 the following injunctions occur : Item as often as any nobleman or stranger worthy shall come to the town then upon warning from the Mayor and Aldermen all the Aldermen in decent apparel SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 47 shall attend and accompany the Mayor for the credit of the towne upon pain of every one offending to forfeit 3s. 4d. Item that they all attend the Mayor from his house the Sunday after the swearing and on the usual feasts viz Christmas Easter Whit in their best violet gowns and in clothes of black or sad colour and the 20 in their black gowns and like clothes under the pain of 6s 8d for every default. Item that every Alderman wear his black gown to the church every Sunday with black or sad coloured apparel and that none wear any light coloured clothes different from their gowns or any grayish stockings under penalty of 20s. Between these two last entries the following has been interpolated, and afterwards crossed out : Ordered by the Maior and Alderman ye 4th of September 1654 that every one of the Aldermen shall provide for themselves a Gowne against the first Sunday after the next Maior shalbe sworne .... which gownes are to be all of one forme and of Black stuffe to be faced with black plush or velvet. A little later occurs : 23rd of September, 1655. It is ordered that Mr George Archer shall provide a gown like the rest of the Aldermen's gouns against Saturday come sennight if there be materials for the same within the town upon pain to forfeit 40s. The use of official gowns was discontinued by the " reformed " corpora- in 1836. Another curious order from the Council, dated 1696, and made, I suppose, for the purpose of keeping the luckless burgesses up to the required moral scratch, was that they shall twice on every Sabbath day repaire to the Church in their gownes on pain of forfeiting 3s. 4d. In olden times, our ancestors believed that the religious uses of Sunday were sufficiently important to justify their enforcement by the secular arm. By the famous Act of Queen Elizabeth of the year 1559 —which, by the way, still stands upon the Statute Book, and to-day is being invoked by the Arch bishops as the foundation for their opinion upon incense and processional candles — due provision was made for the attendance of all her lieges at the means of grace. Every one who failed to attend Divine service in some 48 KIRKBIE KENDALL, authorised place of worship each Sunday and holy day was to be fined twelve- pence for each offence. On the Church Husband was imposed the duty of levying the fine, and the Bishops were to see that it was fulfilled. With this power, surely, the Vicar of Kendal should find no difficulty in raising the required monies for his ancient church ! What were the operating causes which produced the revocation of this our First Charter, whether it was a voluntary act of surrender or enforced, either by reason of our abuse of its powers, or by the " naked exercise " of the Royal perogative, there seems to be no record left to us to say. The Star Chamber proceedings were at that time in rigorous operation, the National Treasury was empty, Charles was at issue with his Parliament on the question of supplies, and if taxes could not legally be imposed by the Legislature other means had to be resorted to for replenishing the Exchequer of the Crown. By his own mandate, the King had already exacted " tonnage and poundage " on manu factures, and nothing would seem more likely than that, knowing how much the people prized their Municipal privileges, he should demand the instant surrender of them in order to grant new Charters on the payment of heavy fines. However, this much is certain, that the Corporation had to sue, in forma pauperis, for a new Charter, and that they were more than two years in obtaining it. Among the State papers is preserved their petition, dated November 24th, 1634, " most humbly shewing, that it pleased your Majesty to give direction to your late Attornie-General (deceased) for drawing up their new Charter, and forasmuch as the same was not finished .... maie it please your sacred Majestie to renue your gracious order to your Majestie's new Attornie for finishing their humble suite accordinglie." And at a Court at Whitehall it was ordered that " Mr. Attornie-General do prepare such a Charter as by the Certificate is here mentioned." The principal difference in this Charter of Charles I. over the former one, is that it provides for a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 20 Capital Burgesses, with a common seal containing a crowned portrait of the King engraved upon it. The Mayor, Recorder, and two senior Alderman to be Justices SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 49 ofthe Peace to adjudicate upon all cases not exceeding £20, and to appoint a " searcher of cottons " to examine all woollen cloths exposed for sale, " whether they are wrought and made as they ought to be for the proper use of men wearing them." PROCLAMATION OF HIS MAJESTY KIJTG GEORGE THE FOURTH. JSwrgh of Kirl,bij-in-li'einlal. TUB MAYOR respectfully requests the attendance or the CleROI. MINISTERS. GENTLE MEN, and Inhabitants of this BURGH, and of the Neighbourhood, nt the TowvHalu oa Thursday tbe 17th instant, at a quarter before twelve o'clock, 10 proceed with him abd the Corporation lo Proclaim HIS ROYAL MAJESTY KING GEORGE THE FOURTH. February Win. IBSU. IVill moot from Ihe Town- HaU. prteuety al Taelvc oClack. in the following Order .— Two Tram pel Foui Hnlben Men— t Churchwardens and Clergymen in (hen Two Halbert H Union Flag. barn] of Mull With regard to the circum stances attending the grant of our third Charter, there can be no doubt, for what one abso lute King had granted "during good behaviour," another abso lute and unscrupulous Monarch could easily annul. In 1681, the City of London was stripped of its Charter, and three years afterwards Corpora tions generally were summoned to surrender at mercy by writ of " Quo Warranto," and pay whatever fees and subsidies were demanded for fresh civic privileges. The new Charter is substantially the same in all its provisions as the one it superseded, and this fact alone furnishes an additional argu ment for the allegation against the King, that it was for his own personal ends ; and that without a political motive it was a waste of Kingly power, and a needless disturbance of the Municipality. But whatever may have been the cost to our town, there is record that the Charter was welcomed by the people with great glee. Richard Rowlandson, the Town Clerk, had been patiently waiting and watching about the offices of the Crown for many days, and as soon as the precious document was placed in his hands he set off with it " haste, post haste," not letting the I Two Constables Corporation Banner Mayor and Corporation. Two Halbert Men. Gcnikmcn and Inhabitants — in abreast Union Flog. Constable. I ¦..- Halbert Men TA« Proclamation will be made at thefoUaintn^ placet:— the Mayor's, jppoaite Captain French Lane, Wighgal& Bank. Head le-ol Stramongate. and again at thp Cross. The Mayor will te happy 10 meei the Gcnllcqien ai the Town, at the Kings Arms, at six o clock in "he Evening, to drink Ihe Health or his present Majesty. An a trilling tribute of respect io tht. age and virtuesof our late reared SOVEREIGN, HALF- A- CHOWP a piece will be given, by ihe CORPORATION, fli the TOW-HALL, stlhrec o'clock in the afternoon, lo all the poor Hen and Women, resident in Kcntftii-Snd Kirkland. who have com- llmr effect, ligned bj an) respect pleted IboirSEVENTIETIJ YEAR, on producing a Cei able Inhabitant „f Kendal or Kirk Ij. ml SAi Wirs, ml tkt ffW-P«l , ScmUud^iu Wiri, • GOD SAVE THE KING. Reduced copy of Poster. 50 KIRKBIE KENDALL. grass grow under his horse's hoofs till he reached Kendal. He was met at Burton, on the 26th day of December, by a triumphal procession of horsemen and footmen to escort him hither. At the town's "liberty," the newly- appointed Mayor, fully robed, greeted the procession and received the Charter " kneeling and bare headed," and then proceeded amidst the general acclama tion of the people, with bands of music and the ringing of bells, to the Moot Hall, where it was read out aloud from the Cauld Stean, and the King's health drunk with tumultuous rejoicing. The prize must have been greatly despaired of to be so jubi lantly welcomed. PROCLAMATION OF It IS MAJESTY, WILLIAM THE FOURTH. Burgh of Kirkby - in - Mfendal. ¦ ¦wi • - a a 0 • Wwsii — The Ma vna respectfully requests the attendance of tlie Clergy, Ministbhs, Gsn- TLBMBM, and Inhabitants of this BURGH and of the Neighbourhood, at ibe Town- Ham., od (•'liiij.iv, tbe- Olh Instant, at a quarter before Twelve o'CIock, to proceed with Him antl the Corporation lo Proclaim HI9 ROYAL MAJESTY. KING WILLIAM THE FOURTH. JULY 3rd, 1830 8$r tyv Will moctfrm At T..o. Th Hilben Mm Bud of Mum Colitahh 1 (..—.-u™ n..n«r i C*l«tsM« Brffggton TmelH e'Clvi m 'Ite/allar.Bg Ordr. .. Mayor and CarporltlOD 1 T-n Hdbart Men. GcnlltiUD ud Inhnhilnnti flunhiim Union Flag. ComUblc (rid Stan Four Halbnt Mm Chancellor Ferguson says that the surrender of the second Charter was never enrolled and was therefore void, so that the third Charter could have no legal standing as being granted in consideration of a void surrender. A precisely simi lar transaction took place at Carlisle, where the Charter of Charles II. has always been considered a nullity, and where the earlier one is still reckoned to be the governing Charter. The Corporation Reform Act of William IV., passed in the year 1835, did not put an end to this second Charter of Charles I., but only modified it by constituting a Municipal Corporation with governing powers on the popular principle that taxation and representation should go together, and Tht Proclamation mllbt made ol Ihefilloung Plant — The Market Cron ; Sands Close Entry, Stricklandgate ; opposite Captain French [sue ; HlgbgaW Bonk; Head of New-Street ; In (he middle of Strain ungate ; •ud again at tbe Cron. The Mayor will be happy to meet the Gentlemen of the Town and Neighbourhood, at tbe King's Arms, at Seven o'CIock in the Evening, to drink tho Health of Hit Present Majesty. GOD SAVE THE KING! HUNTED BV M. AND B. liHANTFI WAITE, HEHDAU Reduced copy of Poster. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD, 51 that the people who are to obey the laws should, through their representatives, make the laws. The following description of the Corporation plate and insignia I extract from the late Llewellyn Jewitt's work, entitled The Corporation Plate and Insignia of Office of England and Wales : — CORONATION. THE' TRADES /.1TD SOCIETIES BBlPJO .NXIOUS -O EVIfJre T1IEIE1 LOV iLH UN lilt OCCASION Ot 1 1.EIC Majesties' Coronation, Respectfully announce t° their Pcllo* Townsmen, Out the; *ili Wnlk In |0t ®rrooion, On Thursday next, the 8th of September l**31 In Ihr $ ollotUfttg 0r»cr : npelcm iF.igbtbr— Gnod Intent Saclelj— Two Plajj. N imti — P,o»idcnlioL Sodetj— One Flag 1ci.Ui-- Tbe Pint Kendal Cu-operaWa Society— Ons Flag Conrl of MOBC Eln.cn th— Indeprjudenl Order of Odd fellows— ' Four Flags, t.e iTnClflh— Clergj and GenUamco of (Be Towi., In Closo the ProcenioD Usrshsl on Honebacb Hanhsl i Bind of Mum Pirrt— Bejel Veteran Society— Two Flag* Second J— Free Gardeners — I) tie flag Third— .Tailors- Soclctj— Two Plsgs Fourth— B I'll de'rs' Sociclj— blcven Flagr Gand of Music Fiflh— O srpol Wearers— four r'Ug> Sulh— Butchcn—Une Flag Serenlb— Amies bio Society— One Fine, Each Society and Trade walking in the Procession, is particularly requested to send a Person witb a Flag to lake his station according to the number of his Society. Number One taking his place opposite Sand's Close Gate-way, Stricklandgate, and «n no in rotation ap Stricklandgate. leaving sufficient space for each Society. To be on tbe Ground precisely at 12 o'clock noon. Kach Society Is requested to take its place in the line -»f Procession ttt a Quarter-past 1 2 o clock, and the Procession to move precisely at Half*past 12 o'clock, taking the following route : — Up Stricklandgate, down Highgate. to tho K ether-Bridge, Kirk land : trom thence ap Highgaie, Jowl Lowther Street, along the New Road, over Stramon gate-Bridge to opposite the New Crown, Long Pool : from thence an Stramongate. Finkle Street, down Strickland- gate. to opposite the Union Tavern ; from thence to the Market-place. where tbe societies will form a Square, aod tbe whole body sing the National ANTHEM. After which, the Societies will depart tn their respective Club Houses. N. B. Any Society, or other body of Persona, desirous of walking Id tbe Procession, will have a place assigned them on application to the Marshals. GOD SAVE THK KING. Reduced copy of Poster. " The insignia consists of two maces, a sword of state, a jewel, a mayor's chain and badge, a constable's staff, and the common seals. The plate comprises a loving cup, two tankards, and a snuff-box." "By the charter of Eliza beth the aldermen and burgesses were empowered to have two sergeants-at-mace (servientes ad clavas.) A like privilege was accorded to the mayor ap pointed under the charter of Charles I., and is repeated in the charter of Charles II." " The present maces are of silver, and form a pair, though they vary slightly in size, one being 26^ inches and the other 27 inches long. Each consists of a plain shaft with hexagonal medial knot and large pear- shaped foot-knop, surmounted by a crowned head. There are no royal arms on the cups of the crowns ; probably they were removed during the Commonwealth. The crosses have also been broken off the orbs. Round the heads, divided by caryatides, are the usual royal badges. Hall marks : London, 1647-8 ; maker's mark, T C or C T in monogram," 52 KIRKBLE KENDALL. " By the charter of Charles I. the mayor was empowered to have a sword-bearer ff>ortator gladii). This privilege was confirmed by the charter of Charles II." " The sword is 3 feet 11 J inches long, and has the hilt, pommel, and mountings of silver, with the royal arms of the Stuart sovereigns and the arms of Kendal. The sheath is covered with black velvet. The present sword is of the time of Charles II., if indeed it be not later." "The jewel consists of a large gold Maltese cross set with diamonds and pearls, bearing a medallion portrait of Queen Elizabeth circumscribed : Elizabeth : D : G : ANG : fra : ET : hib : regina. On the back is engraved : ' This Jewel is presented by some friends of the late A Iderman John Fisher, who died Oct. the 2nd, 1870, to the Mayor and Corporation of Kendal, on the Three Hundredth Anniversary of the Grant of their First Charter of Incorporation, I575> In remembrance of his life-long interest in the service of the Town of Kendal.' The jewel is worn by the mayor on state occasions as well as the chain and badge." " The chain or collar is composed of a number of angular shields, with the names, etc., of successive mayors set on oblong frames which are coupled by large rings. In the centre are the royal arms, etc., of Queen Elizabeth. The badge consists of a large shield of the town arms ; quarterly : 1 and 4, three wool-hooks ; 2 and 3, three teasels proper, with the motto : p ANNUS mihi PANIS (Wool is my bread), ^/hnnus rniliiio.anis surmounted by the crest of England and accom panied by civic emblems. The chain and badge were subscribed for by the burgesses, and presented on November 28th, 1875, being the 300th anniversary of Elizabeth's charter." " The chief constable's staff is a black wooden pole, about 5 feet long, with a lacquered brass head surmounted by a regal crown. The head can also be fitted to a short staff." " The original common seal is of silver, and circular, ii inch in diameter. The device is a quaint view of the town of Kendal, with the church at one side and the castle in the background ; in base are the letters K K dividing the date 1576. There is no legend." (See p. 46), SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 53 INSIGNIA OF THE CORPORATION. 54. KIRKBIE KENDALL. " The second seal, which probably dates from the charter of 1635-6, is also circular, if inch in diameter, and of silver. The device is a half-length figure of King Charles I., crowned, and holding the orb and sword. Legend : THE • SEALE ¦ OF • THE • TOWNE • OF ¦ KIRKBY • KENDALL" "The loving cup, of silver, is 8| inches high, and has a deep square- bottomed bowl on a baluster stem with broad foot. It is inscribed : ' The gift of Thomas Sleddall the first Maior of Kendal to the Maior of Kirkby Kendal successively.' Hall-marks : London, 1667-8 ; maker's mark, in a shield a key between two pellets (?). From the fashion of the cup it is clear that Mr. Sleddall's gift was re-made at the end of the seventeenth century." "The lesser of the tankards is ofthe usual 'drum' pattern with a flat lid. On the side are engraved the town arms and the inscription : ' This Plate was founded by the Alderman of Kendall and his brethren for a perpetuity 1629.' There are no hall-marks." " The larger tankard is also of the ' drum ' pattern, with a raised flat lid, and is 6f inches high. On the side is inscribed : ' The legacy of Thomas Braithwaite Esq the Recorder of Kendale to the Maior and Aldermen of the same successively.' Hall-marks: London, 1681-2 ; maker's mark, AD." " The following item occurs in Thomas Braithwaite's will, which is dated November 9th, 1674 : ' I give and bequeath to the Mayor and Aldermen of the borough of Kirkby Kendall the sum of £10 to be bestowed' on a piece of plate for the use of the Corporation.' " "There are two snuff-boxes belonging to the corporation of Kendal. The older is kept in the mayor's chest with the tankards and other insignia, and is transferred by each mayor to his successor on the 9th November, when going out of office. It is made out of a block of ebony, and in shape somewhat resembles a flattened hour glass. It is 5^ inches long, and has two compartments and two lids, one at each end, to hold two sorts of snuff. The lids are oval, and are attached to the box by plain silver hinges of different patterns. The box has two flat silver hoops around it. There are no hall-marks, dates, or letters on the silver mounts, and the design of both box and mounts is very plain, and evidently the work of some local workman. There is no evidence as to the date when this box came into the possession of the Corporation, or by whom it was SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 55 given, but it is generally supposed to be of the same date as the tankards. This box is only brought out at the installation of a new mayor into office, when it is usually handed round, replenished at one end with the famous ' Kendal Brown,' and at the other with strong Brown Scotch snuff." " The second box is made of black horn, oblong in form, 3f inches long and if inch wide. The workmanship is modern and exceedingly good ; and the outside of the lid, the two sides, and the ends are beautifully inlaid with enchased silver of a richly ornamental scroll pattern ; the bottom has also a silver line inlaid along its margin. On the inside of the lid is a silver plate on which is engraved : ' Presented to the Corporation by Richard Nelson, Mayor, Dec. ijth, 1885.' This box is generally found on the table at all meetings of the Corporation, and is also in great request by the magistrates on court days. The lid of the box has been slightly damaged at the corners." PROCLAMATION OF THE QUEE1 W OF ENGLAND. Pofice-Officr. June 2/, I H37 Present, John V bates, Esq., <_ luiintmn, Messrs. Wm. Geli>eri>, Wh.Baindfiiiwu E. Gibson, J. Robinson, J. Mallinson, S- €ompston, J. Parker. T. Bimdmhh. J. Kidd, T. Thexton. W Richardson. I. Edmondbon, G. Hind. J. t . Wood, and Richard Wilson- Resolved, That the Queen Ik- Proclaimed 00 Monday next, nnd that the fullm* mg be the . .... Programme oj the Proctiggion. That Captain Wilson lie respectfully requested to summon the Kendal Troop ot* the Westmorland Yeomanry Cavalry 10 head the Procession, to he followed by The Chief Constable on Horseback ; The Staff of the Recruiting District and Men , The Police Officers in tbeir Uniform, with Staves : Sheriff' d Representative on Horseback ; Two Mace Bearers ; Sword Bearer ; The Mayor and the Vicar of Kendal -. The Coroner ; Magistrates and Aldermen on Horseback , The Town Clerk, Auditors nnd Assessors, and the Borough Treasurer : A BAND; Councillors un Horseback ; Churchwardens and Overseers, Two ond Two ; Gentlemen, Three a-lirenst, on Horseback or on Font ; The Benevolent Societies and Clubs of the Town. id at H alf-pa.1 T Stsen," after wbich tht Procession shall proceed down Highgatr and halt on the Crrsi-bapk. where tbe Procla mation shall be sgain read The Procession ahull then proceed 10 opposite the Church, where the ProcIsBiaiiorj thall be again read ; thence (a the Lound. and return through open rile, thence proceeding up Highgate, dawn New Street, along ihe New Road, over Stramongate Bridge, to tht Duke at Cumberland, when the Proclamation shall be sgaiu read ; thence returning up Stramongate (reading the Proclamation opposite the Quakers' Meeting Honte) 1 thence proceeding forward up Finkle Street, down StrickUndgoie (reading (he Proclamation opposite the Nnt Church), ihcncr proceed) ruj.Bjong' the Bumeside Road, up Croat Street, down Union Street, and to tbe Town Hall Corner, where " GOD SATP, THE QUEEN ' thai) be -uRg . after wfaicfa three times three Cheers ¦hall be given. End then dupersc- 7s> Committee wiUmret/ai ikt purpurea/ im&aW 'Ar farther imnfrmmt n fttmdsf Eomne. er &m 0 doct. ol lie PvRce bffire HUIKON AND NirHOISON, PRINTRK3, ¥EHD1L Reduced copy of Poster. " The insignia, etc., are kept in an elaborately carved box, given by John Hudson, Esq., mayor, 1852-3. The Corporation also possesses two state chairs, the gift of Lord Bective in 1875." The first Municipal Election, which took place on Boxing Day, Saturday, the 26th of December 1835, proved a triumphant success to the new Reform party, every one of its nominees being returned, as follows : — 56 KIRKBIE KENDALL. West Ward John Wakefield. William Bainbridge. Samuel Compston. Isaac Braithwaite. Samuel Whinerey. William Richardson. East Ward John Richards. Thompson Bindloss. Edw. W. Wakefield. Isaac Wilson. Allan Simpson. Thomas Harrison. North Ward -\ I William Geiderd. John Banks. Richard Wilson. Isaac Edmondson. Edward Gibson. Joseph Gunson. I have before me a few of the earlier election addresses and posters, from which it may be of interest to extract some amusing particulars. The electors of 1841 are begged to support no " Bread-taxing Tories," but to vote for the "Corn-law Repealers." In every instance the "Repealers" won the day, and were returned amid boisterous jubilation. In the election of 1842, Joseph Banks beat Isaac Edmondson by eight votes, and secured the second Tory seat in the Council. The following year the Reform party carried every seat, and in 1844 they carried all but one. A few days later, in consequence of the resignation of Reginald Remington, a bye-election took place in which the Tory candidate, Rowland Postlethwaite, a " No Borough Rate " man, was defeated by John Harrison, a Reformer. " Come, Rowley, to the Council go ; Heigho ! bold Rowley, The North Ward wants one in, you know, And we'll strike those Blues a terrible blow With our Rowley, Poll-ey — canvass and schemage — Heigho ! dear Rowley ! SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 57 " There's Captain C. in the Council room ; Heigho! sigh'd Rowley, ' Alone in his glory ' — a pitiful doom : He's in want of a mate to cheer his gloom : Send poor Rowley, Poll-ey — canvass and schemage — Heigho ! sigh'd Rowley ! " I fear the Electors won't aid our cause ; Heigho I sad Rowley; O woeful suspense — they're backing our foes — We loose in all quarters ! a sad fight must close My Rowley, Poll-ey — canvass and schemage — Heigho! RUN Rowley!" In the 1845 election we find that the epithet of " Reformers " gave place to the now more usual term of " Liberals," who again carried five of the six seats. But in the following year they only secured four. Nothing of any moment seems to have happened during the next few years. Nominations were scarcely contested; until the passing of the " Health of Town's Act," when the election of 1850 greatly turned upon the question of the lighting, cleansing, and draining of the town. To the Tories the subject was one of " Draining the pocket and such like foolish underground works," against which they raised the rallying cry of " Economy, Retrenchment, and BURTON." In the following year, however, party politics gave way to town politics. The candidates arranged themselves under the two headings of " Drainers " or " Anti-Drainers," and in each case the " Drainers," including two Tories and four Liberals, were successful. Again, for a period of some ten years, nothing seems to have disturbed the electors from their apathy, until a certain little trouble arose concerning a supposition that the Goose Holme was being enclosed for private purposes. John Ireland, the "Washerwoman's Friend," was the new candidate. The placards say that " he will, no doubt, be placed at the head of the Poll (clothes-pole) by the united array of the Feminine Electors, who have been so kindly accommodated on the Goose Holme Drying Ground for many years past." Here is another sample of an 1863 election poster: — "Don't we know the havoc which Scarlatina, Typhus and Small Pox have made in our 58 KIRKBIE KENDALL. West Ward? Don't we know that nine-tenths of it arises from Malaria generated from the Maude's Meadow Swamp ? Vote, then, for the Man that will drain Maude's Meadow! PLUMP FOR BUSHER AND DRAINAGE, and wipe out with your Votes the plague spot of the West Ward." Busher was elected. EAST WARD ELECTION. The electors of 1865 are appealed to, to vote for " BUR TON the Champion Econ- omiser of Rates, the ONLY Checkmate of Extravagance and Frittering away public money, being ' Hoggarth the Second.' " From this time forward the Council must have behaved pretty well, or the Ratepayers' Association gone to sleep, for little transpires beyond the usual terms issued by both par ties, each and all proclaiming that they alone can be trusted to watch over the interests of the poor and their fellow- townsmen. For a moment, truly, a little warmth blazed up in 1873, over such questions as the purchase of the Watchfield Estate for the town sewage, the reduction of the police force, and the Pump Inn and Finkle Street improvements. But in the end even these subsided, the town once more became indifferent, the Council well satisfied with themselves, settled down and did much good work, indeed all went well until the recent outburst which manifested itself over the amount of money sunk, no one knows where, in the newly-erected Municipal buildings, and in the excessive expenditure incurred in making the new reservoir at Fisher Tarn. To the Washerwomen of Stramongate. LADIES, You are respectfully requested to take part in a demon stration -to be made on Saturday Afternoon next, for the purpose of celebrating the return ot your OLD FRIEND, MR. JOHN IRELAND AS YOUR REPRESENTATIVE IN THE COUNCIL OF YOUR TOWN. The procession will be formed upon GOOSE HOLME at Three o'CIock in the Afternoon precisely, and will proceed over the Wooden Bridge, through your Representative's Dyehouse, &c, by way of the New Road to the Site of the Proposed "NEW BATHS AND WASHHOUSES." At the Head of the Procession will walk the Newly- fledged Councillor, to be followed, two and two abreast, by yourselves with your Washing Tubs in your hands. Several small Boys have been engaged to carry the remaining Insignia of your laudable Profession ; Dollylegs, Pegs, and Props will stump along themselves, and bring up the rear. On arriving at the destination a Circle will be formed round an inverted DollyTub, upon which your Representative will Address you. At the conclusion of his Speech "Three Cheers will be given for the FREEDOM of GOOSE HOLME," and the Small Boys will Sing in Chorus that touching and appropriate Melody — "HAS YOUR MOTHER SOLO HER MANGLE?" Oct. 31st, 1861. Reduced copy of Poster. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 59 Lowther Street ^*"S street was °Pened out m l7&2, causing the demolition of the " Black Bull," besides cutting through the famous Whitehall Gardens, once kept by Alderman Francis Drinkell, who was three times Mayor of Kendal. " The ground for building a new street in Kendal," says the Cumberland Pacquet for February 27th, 1781, " is let off, and a great part of it will be done in the course of the summer. From the regulations to be observed, it is probable this will be a great ornament to that town. The Society of Independents have purchased one of the lots, containing 28 yards in front and 14 yards in rear, on which an elegant chapel is to be built." It seems that the intention of the authorities was to build upon the north side only, and that the south side should remain an open garden ; but the eagerness to obtain possession of the first five building plots proved too great a temptation for them to withstand. The ideal gave place to the material, and what might have been an open sunny thoroughfare, became a narrow path of gloom. How the street was paved I cannot tell. From the following curious extract it would seem that it was evidently not with the old uncomfortable cobbles, and yet it was too early for McAdam. " The new street lately opened in Kendal, called Lowther Street, is almost built up and is found of great convenience, not only by opening a way to the river, but by taking carriages, &c, by the outside ofthe town and thereby avoiding a great part of the pavement in passing through the place." — Cumberland Pacquet, October 12th, 1784." One of the best things which resulted from this undertaking was the formation of a large culvert from the foot of All Hallows Lane to the river. It was designed to take away the excessive water which in flood-time used' to flow down and swamp this part of Highgate, before the open channel could convey it to the cross gutter further down the street. A curious circum stance in connection with this culvert, or " Nannie hole," is reported in the papers concerning a cow, which, being driven along the New Road, took fright at some cavalry and galloped down to the river side. There it passed under Miller Bridge, and entered the culvert as the first place of refuge that presented itself. The poor beast once in, finding it impossible to turn, was compelled to advance, and it accordingly followed the course of the drain, 60 KIRKBIE KENDALL. to the alarm and dismay of the owner. Attempts were made to ascertain its whereabouts, and a hole was dug at the top of Lowther street, but the calcu lations had been badly made. Other measurements were then taken, when it was found that the cow was in a line with the ironmonger's shop of Mr. Parkin (now Mrs. Rudd's), and eventually the wall of his cellar had to be taken down as the shortest and most convenient way of giving liberty to the poor prisoner. This thoroughfare was called New Street at a time when the name of " Lowther " was offensive to the majority ofthe inhabitants. We must now retrace our steps and follow down the White" Hart Inn. , narrow passage on the west side of the New Biggin, across which, it is said, opposite neighbours could easily shake hands from their respective windows. The first building to notice is one of those inns for which England at one time was so famous, with their snug bars, and four-posted beds hung with silk and covered with lavender-smelling sheets. The White Hart Inn was one of the principal hotels in Kendal during the coaching days, and known first, for the purpose of respectability, as Robbin's Coffee House. Its history can be traced back as far as 1702, when a chair before the fire blazing half-way up the chimney, was considered a throne of human felicity — an inn attracting the elite of public-house frequenters, and a time when even the clergy did not think it derogatory to their calling to smoke their long churchwardens, drink the home-brewed beer, and discuss the topics of the day with their parishioners over a paper just arrived from London two or three days old. In 1774, a conveyance deed refers to " an old chapel in Butcher's Row," and states that it was used as part of Robbin's Coffee House. It was probably a Dissenting Chapel, but of what denomination cannot be ascertained. On March 25th, 1779, during the occupancy of John Atkinson, a news room was opened here, which is supposed to have been the first in Kendal. It was frequented by the Rev. Dr. Symonds, the Rev. Caleb Rotherham, and the Rev. G. Crackenthorpe, master of the Grammar School, and others. It must . be remembered that this was a time of extreme national activity, when the development of iron and steam increased the prosperity of trade, and Dr. Priestley was deep in experiment and scientific research ; and, moreover, a time SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 61 6"2 KIRKBIE KENDALL. when the great Chatham had just died, and when the whole political horizon was gathered in storm. Rodney had defeated the Spanish fleet, Warren Hastings was victorious in India, but Lord Cornwallis had surrendered at Virginia, and Lord North had retired from the Government at home. A time which saw the independence of the United States and Home Rule in Ireland, the French Revolution with the Anglo-French Wars, the naval successes of Nelson, and the final Union of Ireland with England. It was at this period of excitement, when a constant knowledge of passing events was as necessary to the traveller as to the resident, and when the price of newspapers was such that many persons could not afford to purchase them, that the news room was originated. In March, 1804, the club removed to the new " Commercial Hotel," but, alas ! to say, during the Brougham Elections of 1818 politics divided the camp, two Blues were black-balled, and the seceders removed to a " New Coffee Room." First of all they met at the " King's Arms Inn," from which they issued their rules on August 15th, 1820, and subsequently to the " Caledonian Room " in the Market Place, where the Board of Guardians have recently been sitting. In 1827, the original club removed to the White Hall, and, we are glad to note, shook hands once more and amalgamated with the seceders in 1855. But to return from this digression to the inn, whose sign was a favourite badge of Richard II., and whose character was famous in the coaching days for post-horses, victuals, rum and milk, and general accommodation of the best old English quality for man and beast. During the tenancies of John Atkinson (1781), and William Maskew (1786), the coaches stopped here for Manchester, Liverpool, and London every day at three o'clock in the morning and at five in the afternoon, and a special one to Carlisle ran every Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday morning at five o'clock. James Webster, formerly butler at Casterton Hall, afterwards sword bearer to the Corporation, became innkeeper here in June 1803, and had the satisfaction of seeing one of his daughters married to Alderman William Longmire, twice Mayor of Kendal. 1813 saw Richard Smith as landlord, and in 1815 the " North Star" was advertised at greatly reduced rates, viz. : — Inside, to Manchester, for 20s. and outside for 12s., leaving at half-past five o'clock, and travelling via Chorleyand Bolton, to the " Talbot Inn," Manchester, and via Lancaster (8.30), Garstang, Preston, Ormskirk, to the " Talbot Inn," Liverpool, and arriving at both places in time to catch the Saxe-Coburg coaches to London. In 1819, we have the SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 63 EXPEDITIOUS TRAVELLING. Liverpool, Manohefter, Prefton, Lancaf- ter, Kendal, Penrith, Whitehaven, C&rlifle, Dumfries, Kilmarnock, Glaf- gow, and Edinburgh Coaches and Diligences. A DILIGENCE fets "out from Mr, Cap/tick^ the New-Inn, Lancairer, every Tuefday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday Morning, at 6 o'CIock, and arrives in Penrith at 4 o'CIock in the Afr.er.noor). Alfo a Diligence few out from lira. Buchanan's, the Ctown Inn, Penrith, every Tuefday, Wedoefday, Friday, and Saturday Morning, at 4 o'CIock, and arrives in Lancafter ai three o'OfocIc in tne. Afternoon. A Coach whictr is connected with the above fees out every Morning (Sundays excepted) at 5' o'CIock, from Mr. Cap- ftick's, the New" Inn, Lancafter, for Prefton and Liverpool, where PafTengers coming in this Diligence will be accomo dated with Seats. The Manchester and Prefton Stage Coach meets and dine* with the Liverpool Machine at Prefton, every Monday, Tuefday, Thursday and Friday, by which Paffengers are con veyed to Manohefter, &c. Each Paflenger from Lancafter to Penrith 14s. Children on the Lap Half Price. Short Paffengers taken up on the Road to pay Three-pence-half-penny per Mile. • Each Paf- fenger allowed 141b. Weight of Luggage, all above to pay One Penny per Pound, and (9 in Proportion to any Part of the Road. A Coach fets out every Day-from Penrith to Carliflo it 5 o'Cldck in the Afternoon, where 5eat» will be referred for PafTengers, coming in the above Dijigeaoes, goiny North ward. A Diligence which is connected with the above Carriages fets out every Sunday, Tuefday, and Thurfday Evening, from Beck's Coffee- Haute, Carli lie, for Edinburgh. A Diligence fets out every Monday, Wedrrcfday, and Fri day Morning at 6 o'CIock from Mr. Hariierty's, the King's Arms Inn, Carlifle, fur Dumfries, rCilmarnock, and Gjafgow. A Diligence fets out four Day* a Week from Penrith to Whitehaven, by Way of fCefwkk and Ccckermouth. Performed by the Union Company. CAPSTICK., New-Inn, Laneairer. BUCHANAN, Crown- Inn, Penrith. ( ThePrqprietora will not be iccouaiable for any Parcels a. hove Five P.mnds Value, unlcfs entered and paid for accordingly. Tf. £. For Entry of PafTengers and Parcels apply tt-Mri Capltick, New-Inn, Lancafter j Mr. Arkinfon, Cofiet-houef. K-nua! i and Mrs. Buchanan; Ciows-Inn, Penrith. 20 announcement of the "Lord Exmouth" coach, starting from here every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 7 a.m. to the " Sun Inn," Ulverston, from whence it returned on the following mornings. In 182 1 the inn was kept by Robert Brooks, and in 1824 by his widow Mrs. Brooks (afterwards Mrs. Sirr), as buxom and cheery a landlady, we are told, as one could meet with in a day's march. I find that she still reigned in 1840, a bustling, active, important personage, with a lofty cap of antique architecture, a large bunch of keys, a very clean apron, and possessed with that indispensable cheery salu tation which so captivates a traveller as he alights from a journey. And many a jovial evening in the bar we have tradition of, with the Rev. John Sampson acting as " Mas ter of the Ceremonies " and Lancelot Shepherd, surgeon, as his second, supporting his arguments and sometimes giving points to his jokes. Amongst others who joined the throng were Thomas Sirr, guard of the Leeds and Kendal coach, Copy of Coaching Advertisement. 64 KIRKBIE KENDALL. and the ubiquitous Jimmy Wiggins of Wildman Street, who always came to the fore in support of Harry Brougham. Sampson would maintain that Brougham was no lawyer, but merely a play-actor, with a gift of the gab ; and Tom Sirr would adduce, as an instance of it, that he once drove " Harry " on his coach and got sixpence for the driver. " Shabby beggar," said Tom, " d'ye make him out a good lawyer after that ? " The argument would have been deemed a clincher if it had not been for the faithful Jimmy, who cried — " Houd thy tongue, thou great goose; has ta got neither sense nor manners, houd thy tongue, or I'll make a song about thee, and send thee down to the end of the world, just like what thou is." Such a dreadful threat, as to be put into one of the rhymester's songs, was too awful a thing to be lightly thought of, so that poor Tom, in his wisdom, meekly withdrew. Jimmy was an odd character, deformed on one side, and always carried about with him a long alpenstock from which hung his favourite " blue " ribbons and upon which he leaned for support. This he grasped by the middle in such a way as to give him a very laughable appearance. But he seems to have been well aware of his singular look, for in reply to a gentleman whom he had insulted by asking a question, and who wanted to know from the crowd who the fellow was, Jimmy himself instantly replied, " I'm a note of interrogation and that just means a little crooked thing that asks questions." " I am a little crooked thing, interrogation like, For want of being sent to school I scarce can read or write ; But I can chant a stave or crack a joke, or both if you should need 'em, So now, my lads, I'll give a toast, — Here's Westmorland and freedom." In 1711 the property was purchased by Robert Wilson, stuff weaver, for £248 in * public sale. In 1833 it was sold by William Petty to Thomas Sirr for £1015, and in later days it was sold for £1750 to a brewer of Ulverston. The building where Messrs. Arnold and Greenwood now have their offices was formerly a celebrated inn. At first it was known as the "Crown * Public sale is a term applied to sales before the aid of a licensed auctioneer was called in, the vendor being his own salesman. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 65 and Mitre," representing thus both State and Church. The earliest note that I have concerning it, is that it was kept by Alderman Henry Cort (Mayor of Kendal in 1700 and again in 1713), until he removed to Lancaster in the year 1715. ADVERTISEMENT. November 29th. 17 $B. This is to give NOTICE, to all Gentlemen, Tradefmen, Travellers, Carriers and others that. JOHN PETTY Innkeeper, is re- ** moved from the Roe Buck to the Crown and Mitre in Kendal, a very commodi ous well built Inn, fituated near the Centre of the Town, has exceeding good Stables, Warehoufes and a fpacious Yard. All Perfons minded to oblige him with their Favours, may "be aflured of meet ing with good Entertainment and civil Ufage. Kendal Printed by Tho. Aftiburner. Reduced facsimile of Advertisement. Extract from the Boke off Recorde : — 1715 — Whereas Mr. Henry Cort one of the Aldermen above named, having sometime before Whitsuntide last sett to farme his dwelling house within ye said Burgh called or knowne by ye name or syne of ye Crowne and Mitre for a terme of yeares and made severall publick sales of his household goods etc., and about Whitsuntide last did remove himselfe and his family from ye said Burgh to Lancaster in ye County of Lancaster where they have ever since dwell'd the said Mr. Cort having farmed a hou&e there for that purpose, and 66 KIRKBIE KENDALL. whereas Joseph Dawson Esq., Mayor of ye said Burgh finding that ye said Mr. Cort coii'd not rightly execute and Pforme the office of an Alderman of this Burgh at that distance soe that in effect his place of Alderman was become vacant." In the Newcastle Journal for June 6th, 1752, I find that "this well accustomed inn, formerly kept by Mrs. Agnes Wilson, is now kept by Christopher Fenton." In April, 1757, there is an announcement that Edward Empson will sell " All that his burgage house or inn commonly called and known by the name of ' The Crown and Mitre,' and now in the possession of Matthew Shaw, as farmer thereof, and also all that his brazier's shop adjoining." Then again in the Newcastle Journal for April 19, 1760, is the following : "To the public. 'The Crown and Mitre Inn,' formerly kept by one Blackstock and afterwards by Mrs. Harrison, is now entered upon by William Petty, late a servant in the Hon. and Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Durham's family, where Nobility, Gentry and others may depend upon meeting with neat four-wheeled post-chaises and able horses. Those who please to favour me with their custom may depend upon having the best of liquors and my utmost endeavours to make their entertainment in every respect agreeable to them. William Petty." About the year 1778, Petty pulled down the old inn and built on the site the present dressed limestone building, which then became known as "The Fox and Goose," with its sign representing a fox purloining a goose. Under this name it was known, both in the years 1801 and 1813, under John Robinson, and in 1830, but as teetotal lecturers made such laughter over the name, calling the landlord the fox and the customer the goose, it was again altered to the " Exchange Inn." It was from here that Lord Brougham made one of his best electioneering speeches during the 1818 contest, and as a sample of the different glasses through which the two different local papers viewed such political events, it is interesting to read in the Chronicle that "Mr. Harry Brougham entered the town escorted from the residence of Mr. Wakefield by a numerous gathering of the friends of independence, accompanied by music playing and colours flying. He was greeted with volleys of cheers from the surrounding thousands." Whilst the Gazette has it that the " disconsolate Mr. Brougham, arriving in a shabby gig, was met and accompanied by a rabble chiefly women and children of the most beggarly description, SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 67 engaged for the purpose," and that " Mr. Brougham was so much ashamed of his followers that he gave them the slip and entered the ' Fox and Goose,' from a window of which he made a speech, accompanied by a man with a black eye. We observed the famous ballad-monger and peace breaker, Jimmy Wiggins, very attentive to his great patron." Political rivalry at this time ran exceedingly strong and found its echo, as is so often the case, in many a street disturbance and riot. The following episode will I hope be considered sufficiently interesting to gain an excuscfor such a lengthy digression. On the 3rd day of February, Lord and Colonel Lowther announced their intention of visiting the electors on Wednesday the nth, to canvass for their support at the coming election. The Lowther committee, being anxious to receive them with every mark of respect, immediately issued notices to the freeholders in the country, requesting their attendance to usher the members into the town. Arrangements were made for a procession ; a yellow flag (as an emblem ofthe house of Lowther), was prepared, musicians engaged, and the members were to be received with ringing of bells, and every demonstration of attach ment and joy. Dinners were ordered for eighty freeholders, by the committee, at the "Commercial Inn" and "King's Arms," and likewise for the Yeomanry at other inns in the town. On the evening of the 10th, however, bread, cheese and ale had been distributed by some of the Yellows to the public indiscriminately, so that in consequence, by nine o'clock, the streets in the middle of the town became thronged with people in a state of semi-intoxication, calling out, " Brougham for ever," " Lowther 's ale, but Brougham for ever " ; and this scene continued until midnight. A number of Irish navvies, who were employed in cutting the canal at the time, took full advantage of this free ale and moreover obtained a cask on the following morning for themselves. On the other hand, Brougham's committee issued the following," " The Kendal Committee for Mr. Brougham's election, request that the Friends of that Gentlemen will behave with the utmost propriety upon the arrival of Lord Lowther and Colonel Lowther to-morrow, that not a shadow of blame 68 KIRKBIE KENDALL. may be cast upon so good a cause, as the glorious emancipation of Westmor land from its long thraldom to their opponents." But a poster such as this could have no power to restrain the influence of free ale and the presence of so many navvies intent upon a spree. On the morning of the nth, a little before noon, the mounted supporters of Lord Lowther issued from the " Commercial Inn " to go and meet the advancing procession from Dallam Tower. The scene which immediately followed was frightful ; the mob threw dirt, stones, and other missiles at the horsemen as they made their appearance in the street, and set up a loud yell, which was echoed throughout the whole town. Many of the horses took fright, became ungovernable, galloped off and ran the gauntlet until they reached Nether Bridge ; and so successful had the aim of the mob been, that scarcely one horseman could recognize his neighbour, so bespattered were their faces and so bruised were they by the effect of the stones. However, nothing daunted, they bravely proceeded on the road towards Milnthorpe, without further interruption for about three miles, where they met the Members, and I fear told a sad tale. The combined procession now con sisted of 131 horsemen, n carriages, an.l a great number of yeomanry on foot. At Nether Bridge, about 500 of the mob had barricaded the entrance into the town with Gritstone slabs, taken from off the top of a parapet wall. Here, the scene became truly terrific ; for as the horsemen, arranged five abreast, approached within 80 yards they were greeted with every sign of antagonism. To this succeeded a momentary silence, but on advancing nearer they were again mercilessly assailed. The horses made a stand for a few seconds, some turned and ran off, whilst others in the front rank rallied and dashed forward. Scores of the rioters were knocked down, and through this gap the cavalcade in front of the carriages followed at full speed. The mob, having recovered from the panic made by the onslaught, now rushed forward from the bridge in an immense crowd, attacked the carriages of Colonel Wilson and Mr. Bolton, beat back the horses with the utmost fury, and at the same time almost over whelmed them with stones. Two carriages became entangled with each other across the road, and the mob mixing pell-mell amongst all those in the rear, so completely blocked up the entrance of the town that the remainder of the carriages, together with about 70 horsemen, were obliged finally to turn and make their way back out of harm's way. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 69 During this scene the cavalcade, galloping at full speed through Kirkland, were assailed on every side ; but, after passing over Blindbeck they were for a time allowed to proceed up Highgate without further annoyance. How ever, on Cross Bank, they were met by a counter-Blue demonstration marching with a band of music, a blue flag, and a white flag belonging to the journeymen printers of the Kendal Chronicle Office, which bore in large characters " No Corn Bill," " No Suspension of the Habeas Corpus Act," " No Restriction on Trade," " Brougham for Ever," and " Liberty of the Press." The Blues seem to have divided their ranks so as to make a central passage for Lord Lowther, and with a jovial inspiration they stretched across the way their two banners, so as to make a triumphal arch for their opponents to pass beneath. But how could a Lowther bend his head to a " No Corn Bill " flag ! The very idea was preposterous. At the critical moment, however, the situation was saved by the standard-bearer of the yellow flag. With a sturdy grasp he seized the opposing flags, and that so firmly that the former was stripped from its pole, whilst the pole ofthe latter was broken. With a shout he galloped up the street with the three flags in his hand, to the great dismay and chagrin of the opposite party, who now, along with the rest of the people, began to retaliate. The horses again became unmanageable, and charged forward at full speed ; some followed down Stricklandgate, Lord Lowther and others ran up the gateway into the " King's Arms," whilst the more fortunate, with the Hon. Colonel Lowther, were enabled to enter the " Commercial Inn." As Lord Lowther's battered carriage, in which the populace expected the hon. member to be seated, arrived at the " Commercial Inn," the riots recommenced. The navvies seized on the carriage wheels, forced open its doors, and rudely assaulted both the carriage and all who endeavoured to protect it. Meanwhile the standard-bearer with his trophies, had been followed to the " King's Arms." Here the mob assembled, and threatened to pull the old inn down ; but the flags were restored, and all trouble for the present seemed somewhat appeased. But not for long ; the navvies entered the kitchen of the " Commercial Inn " and seized on a round and a fore-crop of beef, which they swallowed in a few minutes. The innkeeper, apprehensive that they would eat all that was 70 KIRKBIE KENDALL. prepared for the dinner of the freeholders, promised the party a pint of ale each if they would go the " White Hart." How kind ! Accordingly they went, and their comrades, seeing that something was going forward likely to be advantageous to themselves, followed them. There they consumed two Cheshire cheeses, and after drinking their allowance of ale, threatened destruction to the landlady if she refused to serve out more. They became intoxicated, quarrelled amongst themselves, whilst others attracted by the FEBRUARY 10. 181a BURGH OP Kirkby in Kendal, IN THE COUNTY OF WESTMORLAND. WHEREAS, a number of malicious Persona were seen throwing' Mud or Stones, during the Riotous Proceedings which, took place in this Town, on Wed nesday last. That any Person who will give to the Magistrates. such information as will convict any Person or Per sons, guilty of cither of the aforesaid offences, or" of any other offence amounting- to a breach of the Peace, coi ii mi tied on that day, will receive a handsome Re ward. AND Fifty Guineas REWARD, Will be given to any Person, who will give such in- foriuation uh will convict the Person who threw a Stone, from the head of New-street, which injured the Rev. J. Fleming. BY ORDER OF THE CORPORATION* W. BERRY, Jon. TOWN-CLERK. tntsr Ana bj- tirmruti. pmvters, v£sdal. 20 GUINEAS Reward. Wtfyremg Several disorderly persons continue to disturb the peace of 'his Town. At a Court of tl.f Mayor, Aldermen, and Burg-esses, tf this Bury)), hoMen (lii- day in the Moot Hall, IT « \S UWMMOISl.T RF.SOl.VCU That the abote RK«'AllD of 20 Guineas, Will be paid to the m form or or informers, on the convic tion of the person or persons who broke the Windows of Mr. TATHAM, Surgeon, on tin Nights of Monday and Tuesday last. And for tbe better protection of the Persons ami Property of the Inhabitants of this Town, any one shall be HANDSOMELY REWARDED who may here after detect, and cause to be convicted, tbe Author* of such lawless Outrages. "T ORDER OP THE COURT W BERRY, Jon. Kendal, February 25 1816 TOWN CLERK. t'ratitri bf Ajmry emd tltHmaAam Kendal Copies of Reward Bills. uproar, broke in through the windows and door. The canal men pulled in pieces two pairs of tongs and nineteen chairs, they seized on every article within reach, and a terrible conflict ensued, which terminated in driving the Irishmen out of the house, after the first floor of the inn had been almost completely gutted. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 71 After a little time Lord Lowther returned to the " Commercial Inn," where the party washed themselves down, dined together, and made a number of short speeches. But here, in like manner, the windows and doors were broken in, and the tumult continued ; until at last the night closed down upon this — Kendal's most disgraceful scene — amid the shouts and huzzas of the exultant mob. I illustrate here just two of the many official notices of reward issued, which I think with the foregoing, will be sufficient to record its history. There must have been, two and a half centuries ago, an inn in Kendal with this same sign, for we find in the Parish Church Register the following notice of burial : " April 16, 1622, Henry Bremer, of the sign of the ' Fox and Goose,' in Kendal." And again, George Baker, the author of " Newes from the North," directs that his letters from November 21st, 1642, be sent to him, care of Mr. Phillipson, at the sign of the " Fox and Goose," Kendal. But where this old inn was I cannot find out. But now the inn has gone, and here, at least, the teetotallers have won the day. The gaiety of the bar and the long shooting gallery have given place to the sealing wax and red tape of the Clerk to the Magistrates. It seems to have been closed as a public house about May, 1868, when it was converted into offices for Messrs. Moser, Arnold & Moser, Solicitors. Mr. Greenwood says that whilst certain workmen were making excavations 'in the yard they came upon some tan pits for which Kendal was, at one time, so noted. The large projecting window to the saddler's shop beneath was thought, in 1780, " a very grand contrivance for the display of Alderman Thomas Dobson's straw and Tuscan bonnets," but it has since been greatly modernized. The Old, Shambles were built in 1779 by Alderman Old Sham es. willianl petty_ Tt contained forty shops with every necessary convenience, it being, according to the newspapers, " more complete and elegant than most places of the kind." At the head of this lane was the "Butcher's Arms," which had for its sign a picture of sheep and oxen lying in repose, with the appropriate motto " Oves et Boves." The sign of the " Royal Oak " was transferred to this house, when the old inn of that name styled itself " The Commercial." Mrs. Turner, of 72 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Windermere, has a large water colour drawing of this inn, painted by the late Richard Stirzaker in 1825 ; the peculiar old pump, with its enormous trough and gigantic handle, forming an odd looking object in the centre. The trough was intended for cattle, but the mischievous urchins of the neighbourhood used it more often as a miniature ocean in which to sail their paper boats and wet their pinafores. The figures introduced, in their quaint old costumes, give the whole a grotesque appearance admirably in keeping with the place. Up this lane also J. Hutchinson opened a day and evening school on May 13th, 1815. The Golden Fleece. Of Inns we seem to have had no end, and for quality of good ale we have earned renown. The " Golden Fleece," as this inn was named, so as to invite to its shelter, one would suppose, the woolcombers of Kendal, is about the most perfect example left of what the old Butcher's Row was like. The projecting upper story of lath and plaster is supported on wooden posts, which were renewed some fifty years ago with others of a more finished type. At this time most of the crooks on which the butchers hung their meat disappeared, although a few still remain, and iron railings were fixed in front of the bar windows. The first mention that we can find of this most cosy inn ofthe old stamp, romantic in every corner, and possessed at one time by a host having a SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 73 cellar of sound liquor, a ready wit, and a pretty daughter, is in 1723 ; when, by will, Christopher Woodburn, a cordwainer, charged it and other premises with the annual payment of 40s. a-piece towards putting out four boys to be apprentices, and 40s. a-piece for finding them shirts and cravats at the commencement of their service. Then again, in 1761, Sir James Lowther and Mr. Upton, " presenting their compliments to the electors, propose themselves to have the pleasure of waiting upon them, etc., at the ' Golden Fleece.' " Again, in consequence of the bankruptcy of John Petty, the inn was sold on September 4th, 1816, by public auction, the annual rental being placed at £96. An old painted sign against the north corner has disappeared within the last sixty years, representing a warrior driving a chariot, and which bore the name of Jonathan Harker, coach builder, who in September 1821, removed from Colin Croft to a large workshop up the Old Shambles yard. Adjoining is the " Fleece Inn " yard, or, as it was known in Speed's time, " Cock Lane." The illustration gives a good idea of its picturesque exit. Alderman William Cock, mercer, when mayor in 1692, lived on the southern side of the entry, where a seedsman's shop now is. And here too, Christopher Woodburn also lived in 1723. Subsequently this quaint old shop temporarily formed part of the " Golden Fleece " and was used for accommodating the humbler guests that arrived by coach, whilst "your honour" went to the higher-board in the inn itself. Then followed the Rigg family, who were established here from 1779 to nearly 1870, as hatters and hosiers. The best of everything was sold over their counter, and moreover handed, it is said, with that old world courtesy which, costing so little, is yet so pleasant to receive. Old Robert Rigg was justly proud, and we are told how he used to perambulate up and down in front of the shop and draw the attention of passers-by with the exclamation " Here's a property, what a fine property!" alluding probably as much lo the zinc and gold- edged cocked hat which did duty as his sign, as to the building itself. And this is the legend of the sign. Being anxious to have a most comely and suitable inscription, the following was, after anxious thought, finally decided. upon : " Rigg, hatter, makes and sells hats for ready money." Yet, still being anxious, the good man decided to seek the advice of his friends, KIRKBIE KENDALL. and the first to whom he showed it thought the word hatter superfluous, because followed by the words "makes hats," which shewed that he was a hatter. It was struck out. The next observed that the word makes might as well be omitted, because his cus tomers would not care who made the hats ; if good and fitted well they would buy them by whom soever made. It was struck out also. A third friend to whom the inscription was shewn said that he thought the words for ready money were useless, as it was not the custom of the place to sell on credit. These too were parted with, and the original fine inscrip tion then stood, " Rigg sells hats." " Sells hats," said the next friend, "why who expects you to give them away ? " 75 to the by his ¦ |i SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. so sells was struck out and "hats" was all that remained attached name. And, brief as the inscription thus was, it was finally reduced most trusted friend to that all important name of RIGG, with the addition of that odd looking zinc erection with its gold edged rim. In later years I fear that an other friend thought fit to interfere and make a further re duction, for upon one fine autumnal morning this poor hat was found float ing away down the river and was only rescued by chance when passing down beyond the Watch Field. On the property Rigg's Shop and Fleece Inn. being sold this quaint old corner underwent the usual modernizing revolution, the pent roof resting on its wooden pillars was taken away, the shop front extended forward and the last of an old landmark was erased. No. 22. The sign of "The Roebuck" once swung across the street from the premises adjoining, until Alderman Berry purchased the inn and re-built on its vaulted cellars the present building. Here he resided and carried on an extensive ironmonger's business, until his happy windfall of some £20^000, enabled him to retire to Ash Meadow, Beetham. On the 21st of October, 1817, when the premises were occupied by a linen draper of the name of Dent, a serious fire broke out which did considerable damage to the property. And again another fire occurred in 1828. 76 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The most picturesque buildings still left to us ofthe olden time are the shops now owned by Alderman Titus Wilson. Like the " Fleece Inn " they had their pent roofs, projecting some five or six feet further on to the footway, supported by rude wooden posts and which were removed in 1828. Here were the business premises of Thomas Hudson, who nailed to Picturesque bit of Kendal. a beam for "good luck," the first penny he earned, which, by the way, proved such a good omen that he was enabled before his death," in 1811, to purchase the whole of the property. His son John, together with Cornelius Nicholson, who were fellow apprentices in the office of the Kendal Chronicle, went into partnership on November 12th, 1825, and succeeded to the printing SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 77 and stationery business of Benjamin Dowson, which had been carried on in one ofthe four small shops already described on page 33. Success still following that nailed penny, the partners removed across the way to Hudson's premises, and here in 1832 Cornelius Nicholson undertook the compilation of the A nnals of Kendal, a work which was received with so much marked and deserved favour by the inhabitants. The following year the Burneside paper mills were commenced by them for the purpose of making paper by machinery ; they likewise took over the old hand-made paper works at Cowan Head, and worked away till Nicholson left Kendal about 1845, when the mills were sold to Mr. James Cropper. Twelve years later John Hudson retired to a well earned rest, and the business, after a few more years, passed into the possession of Alderman Titus Wilson, who has so praiseworthily maintained its good name. From the illustration it will be seen that the author is fortunate enough to have his offices situated above the luck-penny in this romantic old bit of Kirkby Kendal. The next shop is built upon the site of the old Kilner Hall, probably named after the family of Robert Kilner, attorney- at-law, thrice Mayor of Kendal, about 1644. Robert Kilner lived for some time at a farmhouse known as Berry Holme, Helsington — an antique looking place with round Westmorland chimneys and seats on either side of its porch. Over the door to one of the bedrooms there still remains carved in the wainscot the initials and date — R. K. E. 1644 — which doubtless stands for Robert and his wife Ellen. His son, John, is described in several entries in the Church Registers, as of Highgate. It was here that Mrs. James Imrie for many years carried on a drapery and tea dealing business. It may be mentioned that this shop, together with the " Black Horse and Rainbow " were left to the Roman Catholic Church by Robert Stephenson in 1716, the rents to be devoted to the relief of the poor in Kendal. This charity, which now amounts to about £100 per annum, is distributed by the priest in charge. Robert Stephenson was buried at the Parish Church on April 23rd, 1723, and is described as of Dodding Green. Celebrated in 1785 for its good cheer, Black Horse and Rainbow Inn. . , . . and, being without a sign, this inn went by the name of " William and Elinor Lawn's," to whose honour it is recorded 78 KIRKBIE KENDALL. that in 1798 Elinor, with other of the townsfolk, gave a guinea subscription for the defence of her country, which was then threatened with invasion. Earlier than this the inn was owned in 1638 by Oliver Plat, of Summer How, and an oak table and panel, bearing the inscription " O.P., E.P., 1638 " were discovered when the house was re-built two hundred years later in 1836. In 1 813 we find the inn was owned by one John Birkett, and during the occupancy of James Harker, who followed, the inn had a pictorial signboard representing a rainbow spanning over a fine black horse in a crouching position. David Lipsett followed Harker about 1857, and Alderman John Robinson about 1875. On the site of the tall narrow building adjoining, there used anciently to be a butcher's shop, a continuation indeed of the Butcher's Rows ; but after the erection of the Old Shambles, the house became, together with a warehouse at the back, Benjamin Ion's horn comb manufactory. He it was who added the third storey and refronted the old house with dressed limestone. The warehouse had previously been used by Alderman Jackson Harrison, wine merchant and wholesale grocer. The little shop on the south side of the narrow entry was, in 1795, a pawnbroker's establishment, kept at first by Thomas Robinson, who advertised in October of that year to sell by auction at the Market Cross all his unredeemed pledges. He was succeeded by a Mr. Long and then by a Mr. Gaskill. N __ On the site of Mrs. Court's shop — whose window still displays those luscious tarts wherein the jam coyly hides itself, as such a precious substance should, behind a lattice work of pastry and whose sign has borne the inscription of court, confectioner, for a period of some sixty years — stood the " Three Tuns," with its sign derived from the Vintners' or the Brewers' Arms. A former landlord of this house, Robert Hind, met Jiis death through the bursting of a cannon on July 4th, 1820. This was the anniversary of the election of 1818, to celebrate which the supporters of Lord Brougham assembled in a field near the- Serpentine Walks, and fired a cannon as a royal salute with such a fatal result to one of their number, that he survived the accident only two days. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 79 _, _ , , . This house is probably an old inn, which happily has The Dolphin. v J ft- j now become an excellent coffee house. My first note is to the effect that it was managed about the year 1790 by a Mrs. Rae. After her day it was kept by Wm. Hallhead in 1812, and afterwards by Mrs. Bateman in 1856. In connection with this and other neighbouring " publics," we have handed down to us an illustration of the ways and means adopted for procuring votes in the municipal elections, at a time when the town's drainage was under vehement discussion. After a hunter-up and a voter have each taken a horn full at the " Black Bull " the voter says : V. " Your party's arguments are strong I feel, In one sense must serve the public's weal ; I think I'll shortly to conviction come. Suppose you stand a glass of rum." (Scene shifts to the interior of the '• Dolphin," after which they proceed up the street, and, having tried sundry taps, the voter, who has begun to take the angles, makes another dead point for Highgate. H. U. "Well, well, one more, but here's too many markers Of our proceedings. Let's go into Harker's." (They vanish under the arch of the "Rainbow" and a period of twenty minutes elapses). H. U. (aside) " I'm half ashamed, I am, upon my soul, Of these proceedings, but we're near the goal. My plot is ripe, if he's not got too mellow ; (aloud) There's the Town Hall, now go and vote old fellow." (Enter another hunter-up of the party). H. TJ. 2. " Why, Mr. B., who's this you've got in tow ? This man has polled for Hoggarth hours ago ! " * H.U.i. "Thed — 1 he has ! You rascal, ah, he's off ! And left me here, the butt of gibe and scoff. The vagabond, whose cheek all bound surpasses, Cost me two hours, and twice as many glasses. To think I should have treated the wrong man ! Why Job himself would almost curse and ban. And now some wag, hearing my labour's vain, Will say at once his " drains were wrong again ! " (Exeunt severally. Scent closes). 8o KIRKBIE KENDALL. Prior to the year 1862, the All Hallows Lane Baths and Washhouses. was exceedingly narrow and cramped, notwith standing that it was the main thoroughfare westward to Ulverston — a thoroughfare of almost greater importance in the days of pack-horses, waggons, and coaches than it can be considered to-day. However, in September of that year, the long-talked-of improvements were commenced. The tall buildings on the south side, which had known better days in the time of the Shearmen Dyers, but had since been converted into poor tenements, were demolished, and the street almost doubled in width. I have particularly refrained from seeking out the reasons why this improvement was not carried forward to the entrance into Highgate. It would not be either pleasant to know, or much less to record, the sentiments which dictated them ; but there the awkward corner stands — a striking comment to all who can read. The baths and washhouses were built by a public-spirited body of gentlemen for £2,500, and were opened on October, the 14th, 1864 ; the " luck-penny " (half-a-crown) being presented by William Wakefield to the woman who first turned a tap for actual work. _ . , Mr. R. H. Greenwood informs me that in an old deed the Cripplegate. houses immediately westward, and as far up as the exit from Colin Croft, are described as being situated in " Cripplegate." Here we have the only known mention of Kendal's fourth or western gate, with a distinctive name suggesting broken limbs — whether by reason of its steep descent, or by the mad rush of bulls from off the Beast Bank, I dare not say. Rife specula tion, but worthy of a close research. « , •. », ,, , On the opposite side of the way is the " Golden Ball," Golden Ball Inn. .... which had for its sign in 1820 the silk mercer's trade emblem of a gilded ball. A little further up the hill, and hidden away in that queer spot known as William Gillbanks the twine spinner's yard (No. 23), was the "Sun Inn," a public-house that I can find little history about, excepting that it existed in 1864, and hung out for its sign a board with a sun dial painted upon it. Higher up still, was the " Forester's Arms," situated in that old-looking beer shop, with small, quaint, flanking chimney windows in its eastern gable. An inn of some considerable sporting notoriety, especially in the days of one Shepherd Wales, the champion encourager of sport. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 81 _, , _ _ At the bend of the Lane stands one of Kendal's oldest Black Swan Inn. inns, known as the " Black Swan," and kept in 1775 by one George Wilson. Its sign was said to have had considerable artistic merit, and refers us back to the time when the Australians startled the world with its discoveries of new and strange animals and plants, a time when it was said that — " Swans were not white, but black as soot, And stones were outside the cherries put." On the 24th of April, 1797, a new Female Benefit Society was started at this house with a membership of 57 members. Surely, to our modern notions, this was a queer meeting ground for the young ladies, but it would seem from the following list of Female Societies that it was a common practise for them to meet at such houses of entertainment : — Benefit Societies. Established. Where Held. No. of Members in 1797. 1798. 1806. Female Society 1791 Seven Stars 80 100 99 Female Union Society 1791 King's Head 71 75 66 Young Women's Club .... 1796 Pump Inn 30 27 — New Female Society 1797 Black Swan 57 85 — Female Unanimous Society 1797 New Ship — 34 — The last-named must, indeed, have been an ideal Society, but we find that their unanimity could not have lasted long, for in 1806 only two Societies remained, and they were not among the numbered. The males also had their own Benefit Societies, and, in like manner with the ladies, found it most convenient to meet at the various houses of refresh ment. At any rate, so far as the object of this book is concerned, we must thank them for the lengthy list of inns, thus handed down to us, as then existing : — Benefit Societies. Established. Where Held. No. of Members in 1797. 1798. 1806. Friendly Society 1755 White Hart 157 154 95 Free Society 1771 Golden Lion 157 158 160 Builders' Society 1773 Rose and Crown 50 51 56 Friendly Society 1779 New Inn 148 150 140 82 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Benefit Societies. Established. Where Held. No. OF Members in 1797. 1798. 1806. Amicable Society ¦•- 1783 Fox and Goose .... 124 134 139 Friendly Society 1785 Football 40 46 52 Providential Society 1788 Crown 150 150 Most Honourable Society .... 1788 Golden Fleece 106 no New Friendly Society i789 Globe 71 69 5i Union Society 1794 White Lion 105 no Unanimous Society •¦• 1794 Dolphin 90 78 53 New Union Society 1795 Elinor Lawn's go 95 — Good Intent Society 1796 ..- Dog and Duck 43 57 101 Loyal Brotherly Society •••• 1797 Royal Oak 32 5° 57 Antient Sociey 1797 Lowther Arms — 55 38 I have before me " An Order of Procession " for the year 1797, as follows : — "The Benefit Societies in Kendal will assemble in Stricklandgate on Monday, the 5th of June, 1797, at a quarter past 10 o'clock in the Morning and proceed according to the following Order, four in a Breast to Church, their Colours flying, a Band of Music playing and the Bells ringing, when a Discourse suitable to the Occasion, will be delivered by the Rev. Peter Strickland, Curate of Windermere; after the Service they will return in the same manner to Stricklandgate, and after remaining there a short time, they will file off and march to their respective Inns to dine ; after which it is hoped that all who partake of this Social Festival will spend the Day in convivial Harmony and Brotherly Love." Then follow the names in order of the four Female Societies. Band of Instrumental Music. Gentlemen of the Corporation. Clergymen in their Gowns. Then follow the names in order of the fourteen Male Societies. The Number of Females 238, and Males 1310. — Total 1548. _, , . , _ , , The Boys' school, standing on an eminence in Chapel National School. J b Close half-way up the hill, is a somewhat striking building, erected by subscription in 1818 " as a district school on Bell's principle." Over the porch is a large blue-stone tablet bearing the following inscriptions ; — - SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 83 NATIONAL SCHOOL FOR BOYS. Built by public subscription and munificently endowed By Matthew Pyper, of Whitehaven, Esquire. A.D. 1818. " Hear counsel, and receive instruction, That thou mayest be wise in the latter end." — Proverbs xix, 20. Pyper bequeathed a sum of £2,000, and, agreeably to his own request, he was buried beneath the schoolroom floor in 182 1. The school for Girls was added in the year 1823, and the school for Infants in 1874. „_. , _, In earlier days this house was call " Hill House," and Monument House. , it was here that the Presbyterian congregation, after seceding from the Market Place Chapel, built for themselves a place of meeting. The ground adjoining they appropriated for the burial of their departed relatives who desired not to have the service of the Church of England read over their graves. To this congregation the Rev. James Mc Quhae was ordained in 1764. For the history of the Presbyterian movement I must refer the reader to the account given later on under the heading of the Woolpack Yard Chapel. Suffice it to say, that in consequence of dissension and a split, the remnant finding their inability to pay the stipend of a regular pastor, and suffering from defection and death with no increase in their numbers, were forced to sell the property in 1806 and wall off the sacred enclosure of the dead. The following inscription is cut in freestone over the door into the graveyard : — SCOTCH BURIAL GROUND 1760— 1855 The property was sold to Benjamin Herd, who re-sold it to John Broadbent of Kirkland, to be converted into a spinning mill. At this crisis Abraham Williamson of Keswick visited the town and, hearing of the straits that the Presbyterians were in, and believing that if 84 KIRKBIE KENDALL. relieved from their debt the good cause could be resuscitated, he generously gave £100, with which, and £20 of a premium subsequently raised, the chapel and garden were re-purchased from Broadbent ; alas ! only to be sold again in 1812 to John Bell, for the sum of £100. When Edward Burton, auctioneer, purchased the house, he made many considerable alterations, adding the verandah in front, the two false wings, one on either side, and by building a coach house and summer house at each end of the pallisading. Moreover, at this time, he changed the name from " Hill House " to " Monument Place." At a meeting of the Kendal Burial Board held on the 4th of November, 1863, the following memorial regarding the Scotch Burial Ground on the Beast Banks was presented : — " To the Burial Board of Kendal, Kirkland, &c, the memorial of the undersigned showeth— That the Scotch Burial Ground, situated on the Beast Banks, at the head of Allhallows' Lane, was opened in 1763 and continued to be used till 1855, when it was closed by order of the Secretary of State. That it never had any trustees for itself alone, being only meered or walled off and excluded from the title made in 1804, when the adjoining chapel and ground westward, now the property of Mr. Burton, were sold to Mr. John Broadbent of Kirkland. That there are several tombstones and the remains of at least one hundred bodies within its walls, and as the memorialists have been the only persons who, for the last twenty years, have cared for the protection of these sacred ashes by preventing, as far as possible, encroachments, repairing the walls and erecting a new doorway, they now beg to hand over the care ofthe ground to the Burial Board, as the body appointed by the law to protecc such places from being used for improper purposes. There are no funds available for repairs, nor any person or society to look after the ground, so that the Burial Board is the only body to whose care it can be committed. (Signed) John Inglis, minister of U. P. Church; Joseph Smith, Stricklandgate, Yard No. 80." The matter was then handed to a committee, who at the next meeting, reported that, " having advised with the solicitor, they found that the care and protection of the Scotch Burial Ground, now closed by order of the Secretary of State, necessarily by Act of Parliament, devolved upon the Burial Board." About six months after the Board had taken possession of this sacred inclosure it was desecrated by some one removing and burying the monuments, but they have since all been restored at the expense of the town, without enquiry being made who did the mischief. SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 85 i» i- .» r, m This tavern, built by John Bell, maltster, of Bowling Green TaYern. J Hill House, and the " Rifleman's Arms " (recently called the "New Inn ") are both comparatively modern houses, so little need be said about them. Indeed 80 years ago not a stone of the north side of the Beast Banks was erected, and but a few isolated buildings on the southern side. _ . . p] In March, 1864, some land was sold at the top of Captain French Lane on the north side, and the title deeds of 1767 and 1796 described it as "all that close, &c, commonly called Catcastle, situated under a certain place called Battle Place," &c, &c. Likewise an older deed dated 1667 describes a different property, as "adjoining and butting upon a piece or parcel of ground called ye Battell Place," &c. There is only one place to which both descriptions will apply, and therefore we can have no doubt but that the original site of Battle Place was where the Bowling Fell now is. As to why it received this name, if it be not the Kendal Heath referred to in the note on page 12, I am afraid that none can tell. „ ., ™ „.„ At tne nead °f AH Hallow's Lane is Castle How Hill, Castle How Hill. or as it is sometimes written, " Castle Law Hill." Dr. Burn thinks from its name that it must have been intended for a fort. It is within sight of the Roman station at Water Crook, and is very like the exploratory mounts met with near military ways ; but whether it is Roman or Norman cannot be determined. In an old guide to the Lakes, I find the hill described as "A mount of gravel and earth thrown up, of an exact circular form, arising from the plane on the top of the rock, near thirty feet. It is defended by a deep ditch. The crown is fiat, of 16 paces in diameter, and has been defended by a breast-work of earth and a narrow ditch, and from east to west a ditch is struck through the centre." The obelisk is of hewn limestone, 36 feet high, or about half the height of the old church tower. It was erected by the inhabitants and executed by the benevolent William Holme from the design of his architectural partner, Francis Webster. It is grievous that we cannot find any record of the names of those who subscribed to the work or even of any opening ceremony, for such an account would have been most interesting. The author of " A Fort night's Ramble to the Lakes" (1792), visited the monument a few years after 86 KIRKBIE KENDALL. its erection, and thought that from the shortness of the column there must have been a great lack of funds. Other critics indeed felt this so keenly that for a considerable time it went by the name of " Bill Holme's Bodkin." Upon an oval tablet incised in the stone there is the following inscription : — " sacred to liberty, this obelisk was erected in the year 1788, in memory of the revolution in 1688." The base has been sadly broken and oftimes filled in and mended with cement, so that the following remarkable words, which are said to have been engraved on a corner stone, are now entirely lost to us. "That no foreign prince or potentate has, or ought to have, any power, civil or ecclesiastical, within these realms." _. ., «.. . Benjamin Ingham, the founder of this sect, was born Inghamite Chapel. . , in 1712 ; he entered Queen's College, Oxford, 1730, and received holy orders in 1735 from Dr. John Potter, Bishop of Oxford. At John Wesley's request he went to America to preach, but after a year he returned to Ossett, Yorks, his native place, and preached everywhere in " fields, barns, and houses." In 1741 he married Lady Margaret Hastings, sister to the Earl of Huntingdon. By 1752 his parish extended over the four counties of Yorkshire, Lancashire, Lincolnshire, and Westmorland, and in the year 1756 this meeting house in Kendal was opened. The first baptism recorded, in March of that year, was solemnized by himself. In 1762 Thomas Rowlandson of Grayrigg was chosen Elder, and he continued to officiate as preacher till 1769. After an interval of five years the office was again filled, in 1774, by Christopher Batty and William Wilson of Kendal. The former died in 1797 and the latter in 1804. Then John Huck was ordained and continued in office till his death in 1845. Why these devoted worshippers met with such abuse and persecution it is indeed difficult to say. All round the district they were not only assaulted, but their meeting houses were, in some instances, wrecked and their bodies refused burial. Even the Rev. John Sampson, master of our Grammar School, in a modified sense, could not refrain from teasing the boys who went to this chapel. Harshly interrogating a boy one day as to why he did not come to class with his church catechism, the excuse came, " Please sir I gang to t' Pear Tree!" to which Sampson retorted "To t' Pear Tree? Mair likely up somebody's apple tree." SOUTERGATE OR THE SOUTH ROAD. 87 At first the society used to worship in the open air, until the original Pear Tree barn, belonging to William Wilson, was converted into a chapel for them in 1756. The present building was erected on the same site and opened on September the 7th, 1845, at a cost of £641. Fortunately the old appelation of " The Pear Tree " was still retained, although the aged tree itself, after which the early barn was named, was blown down during a severe storm in November, 1821. The Westmorland Advertiser records the curious fact that when the men were cutting up the timber they found the wood quite sound, and embedded in the heart ofthe tree a large round stone. In consequence of the society allowing anybody to bring their dead to their burial ground, we learn that it became so full that an extension had to be made on the north side, by leave of the lord of the manor, and that to this day a sum of 2s. 6d. a year is paid as an acknowledgment for the same. . , „ . „ The foundation stone of this excellent institution Memorial Hospital. ,.,,„, T ^ T 1 r , was laid by Mr. James Cropper on January the 10th, 1869, and the building was opened to receive patients in 1870. There is, just within the entrance, a marble tablet bearing the following beautiful inscription: " This hospital for the sick and poor was erected in loving remembrance of Fanny Alison Cropper, the wife of James Cropper of Ellergreen. It was built in the year of our Lord 1869 by her husband and her family, who desired to perpetuate her memory by thus carrying out her own wish." A bright and sunny children's ward was added a few years later, and on a brass plate within the room is this inscription : — " This ward was built in 1873 by public sub scription and dedicated to the treatment of infirm children." Of the beginning of the Kendal races I have but little to Race Course. ,_,„,,,.,,,. . . , record. The first handbill before me is tor some races to be held on the 29th and 30th days of August, 1792, on the " Old Course near Kendal." This was on the heights on the west side of Helsfell Nab. And oh the mixture ! It is advertised to be run " during the Oratorio," the first musical festival that was then being held at the Parish Church. My next note is that the races were " revived " on September 12th, 13th, and 14th, 1820, in a field at Ladyford, near Burneside Hall. This meet seems to have been in every way a very great success, and one is not surprised to learn that immediately after a committee was formed to arrange for the races being held annually in the future, 88 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Away up on the border of Scouts' Scaur, on Fisher's plain, the " New Race Course," was formed in 1821; concerning which I extract two interesting cuttings from the Westmorland Advertiser. April 28th, 1821. — " We have the satisfaction to inform the friends to our annual races that full consent has been obtained from the proprietors of the fell land on Fisher's plain, for making the new race ground. From the time of the year on which they are fixed there is little doubt of a full attendance ; and it is with much pleasure we state that many who were enemies to the races last year are now the most forward in promoting them." Kendal Racecourse. August 4th, 1821. — "During the present week, every evening the new race ground has attracted numerous visitants, and indeed such is the extent and beauty of the prospect from that part of the ground where the stands and booths are erected that it is impossible to conceive a finer promenade. The theatre, we understand, opens on Monday, the receipts of which night are very handsomely assigned by Mr. Howard to the racing fund." A peculiar ringing, almost musical, sound may be observed by the pedestrian who should chance to tread upon the loose stones or shingle, and it may be interesting to state that some of them have been tuned to play upon, and are now in the Museum. Of the races themselves I have before me, as I write, most of the programmes for the years 1821 to 1833, and curious reading they make. Lough's correct list for 1821 gives the names of Lord Viscount Lowther and Thomas Upton as stewards. It was calculated that not less than six thousand people were upon the ground each day. For 1823 tne names 8g KENDAL RACES, 1821. CORRECT LIST. First Day, Tuesday, August 7th, 1821. A SWEEPSTAKES of TWENTY GUINEAS each, h. ft. Three years old to carry 6st. rolb. ; Four, 8st.; Five, 8st. iolb.; Six and Aged, 8st. i2lb.; Mares and Geldings allowed 3lb.— One Three Mile Heat. Mr. Robinson's b f by Marmion, 3 yrs. walked over Mr. Wm Hutchinson's b fjulietta, 4 yrs. . dr. Mr. Hutchinson's b. f. Miss Wilks, 3 yrs. . dr. Same Day, A MAIDEN PLATE OF FIFTY POUNDS. Three years old to carry 6st. rolb.; Four, 8st. ; Five, 8st. 81b. ; Six and Aged, 8st i2lb. ; Mares and Geldings allowed 3lb. Two Mile Heats. Strickland, Esq., c. h. the Duke, by Comus ....... dr. Charles Neville, Esq., did not name . . dr. Mr. Robinson's b f by Marmion, 3 yrs. .131 Mr. McMinnie's br. h. the Palmer, by Marmion, 5 years old . . .213 Mr. Field's gr. c. by Marmion, 3 yrs. .322 Mr. Blizard's b m. Creeping Kate, aged dr. Second Day, Wednesday, August 8th, 1821. A GOLD CUP, by Subscription of TEN GUINEAS each, p. p. Five Subscribers or no Race. Three years old to carry 6st. 61b.; Four, 8st.; Five, 8st. 81b.; Six and Aged, 8st. i2lb.; Mares and Geldings allowed 31b. One Three Mile Heat. Mr. W. Hutchinson's b. f. Julietta, 4 yrs. Mr. T. Hutchinson's b. f. Miss Wilks, 3 yrs Mr. Lonsdale's gr. c. by Marmion, 3 yrs Marquis of Queensberry's b. m. Miss Syntax, aged Mr. Read's blk. g. Black Rock, 5 yrs. Same Day, SWEEPSTAKES of SEVEN GUINEAS each, p. p., with TWENTY GUINEAS added. Three years old to carry 6st. iolb. ; Four, 8st. ; Five, 8st 81b. ; Six and Aged, 8st. I2lb. Mares and Geldings allowed 31b. Two Mile Heats. Mr. T. Hutchinson's b. f. Miss Wilks, 3 yrs. ! Mr. Robinson's b. f. by Marmion, 3 yrs. Mr. Blizard's b. m. Creeping Kate, aged. | Mr. Simpson's b. f. by Corrector, 3 yrs. Same Day, TOWN'S PLATE, value FIFTY POUNDS. Three years old to carry 6st. iolb. ; Four, 8st. ; Five, 8st. 81b. ; Six and Aged, 8st i2lb. ; Mares and Geldings allowed 3lb. Two Mile Heats. Mr. Mc. Minnie's br. h. The Palmer, by Marmion, 5 yrs. Mr. Robinson's b. f. by Marmion, 3 yrs. Mr. Blizard's b. m. Creeping Kate, aged Marquis of Queensberry's b. m. Miss Syntax, aged Mr. T. Hutchinson's b. f. Miss Wilks, 3 yrs. Mr. W. Hutchinson's b. f. Julietta, 4 yrs. Mr. Field's gr. c. by Marmion, 3 yrs. Mr. Simpson's b. f. by Corrector, 3 yrs Third Day, Thursday, August 9th, 1821. The HUNTER'S STAKES, TEN GUINEAS each, p. p. Gentlemen Riders, i2st. each. For Horses that never won FIFTY POUNDS in any Stake or Match before the Day of naming. A certificate to be produced if required, before starting, of each Horse having been regularly hunted the preceding Season. One Two Mile Heat. Mr. T. Parkinson's b. g. Fearnought T. Strickland, Esq. did not name. C. Neville, Esq. did not name. Mr. W. Hutchinson's b. g. by young Benin- borough Mr. Read's blk. g. Black Rock, yrs. to be rode by J. Ward, Esq. Same Day, A HANDICAP SWEEPSTAKES, SEVEN GUINEAS each, for all beaten Horses, Two Guineas forfeit, with TWENTY GUINEAS added. To be named immediately after the Races on Wednesday. All disputes to be settled by the Stewards, or whom they shall appoint. — All Dogs found on the course will be destroyed. ORDINARIES at the King's Arms on Tuesday and Thursday, and at the Commercial Inn, on Wednes day, each day immediately after the Races. — RACE BALL, at the King's Arms, on Wednesday Evening, to commence at half-past eight o'clock. — Tickets to be had at the Bar ofthe Inn. Lord Viscouht Lowther, M.P.) c. , Thomas Upton, Esq. \ Stewards. J. Goulden, Clerk of the Course. Printed by R. Lough, Finkle-street, Kendal. Reduced copy of Race Programme. go KIRKBIE KENDALL. of Colonel Smyth and Captain Wilson, R.N., for 1825 those of Major Hasell and Major Atkinson ; for 1826 Lord F. Bentinck and Bolton King; for 1828 Thomas Williamson and William Sleddall ; and for 1829 those of R. F. Bradshaw and E. R. G. Braddyl are mentioned as stewards. The winners of the Gold Cup have been : — 1821. — Marquis of Queensberry's b.m. Miss Syntax, aged. 1822. — Mr. Hutchinson's b.c. Wanton — by Woeful, 3 years old. 1823. — Mr. Ferguson's b.c. Wanton — -by Woeful, 4 years old. 1824. — Mr. Simpson's b.h. Young Corrector, 4 years old. 1825. — Mr. Smith's ch.f. Sophy — by Comus, 3 years old. 1826. — Mr. Whittaker's ch.f. Sophy — by Comus, 4 years old. 1827. — Lord Lowther's br.c. by Grey Walton, 3 years old. 1828. — Lord Lowther's br.c. by Grey Walton, 4 years old. 1829. — Hon. H. C. Lowther's br.h. Brunswick, 5 years old. 1830. — Mr. Nowell's b.h. by Walton, 5 years old. 1833. — Hon. H. C. Lowther's Vyvyan — by Canteen, 4 years old. Short was the life, however, of these meetings ; for a sport, noble in itself, was quickly doomed by those concomitant abuses which seem to be so inseparably connected with it. Lying before me is a poster announcing the sale by public auction on the 26th day of August, 1839, of the whole of the materials forming the grand stand, erected only ten years before — viz.. June 23rd, 1829. And yet, I have another poster to the effect that the Kendal Annual Steeplechase will take place on Tuesday, the 25th of March, 1845, a run over a circuit of three and a quarter miles, and which I find thus described in the papers : — " Starting near Mint House, over the first fence about a hundred yards distant, into a grass field, descending to a brook and fence on the opposite side, into a meadow, and thence to a thorn hedge, awkwardly slanting across a steep hill, which awaited the leapers. The course then followed over a field of rising ground, across a road leading to the River Sprint, and then a drop leap into a meadow. Skirting the river for about 200 yards the horses came to the old water course, where they had to jump a fenced bank and land into the old race ground, with two sets of hurdles five feet high. Thence across a ploughed field, rendered terribly heavy by the rains, to another hurdle, and from this along the River Kent to a rather formidable fence into a wheat field, which led to perhaps the most difficult leap on the line — a wide brook dropping on the off side — and sweeping to the right down the holm to a water fenced in front with thorns, and so on to the end — over 34 fence walls and 14 water courses in all." KENDAL ANNUAL STEEPLECHASE-THE START. By the kind permission of the Editor of the " Westmorland Gazette.' III. Soatergate, continued. My desire is, To unlock the treasures of each ancient place, Its newer humbler mate ; And revere the spirit of each life I trace, In higher Souter-gate. 95 SOUTERGATE— THE EAST SIDE. ON returning again into Highgate to take up our examination of the houses upon the east side, we notice the corner shop of Lowther Street, where Isaac Hadwen, maltster and corn factor, resided until his death in 1822. In my illustration of the White Hall, there is a good view of this old shop, then tenanted by one Jackson, a tobacconist, with the trade sign of a Red Indian and his pipe, over the doorway. In America the pipe, as we know, has its native place, and the Red Indian is the great forbear or foster- father of all who smoke. " We may get on without America," said a witty Frenchman, from whose opinion, of course, we must plainly differ, " but we cannot get on without M. Nicott " — the French prototype of our Sir Walter Raleigh. Here also the well-known firm of Messrs. Carr commenced their career of biscuit manufacturers. Jonathan, son of Henry Carr, a weaver on Far Cross Bank, first started for himself as a wholesale grocer in that ancient old building on Highgate Bank, which had formerly been the " Royal Oak " Inn, and shortly afterwards married a daughter of Jonathan Dodgson, another wholesale grocer in Stricklandgate. Their son, the worthy Jonathan Dodgson Carr, removed up to this house, but finding little scope, he ultimately removed to Carlisle, where the business has ever since grown to be of world wide fame. However, his brother Henry remained here, and I have before me a circular dated, Kendal 10th Month, nth, 1833, in which " Henry Carr respectfully announces that he has entered upon these premises, where he purposes carrying on the wholesale and retail tea and coffee trade." It is said that he also had thoughts of combining the tobacco trade, but the Society of Friends advised him better, saying that they "could not see that tobacco was a necessary of life but rather a bad habit of turning the money that would be useful to the poor into thin air " ; so the project was abandoned. Henry at 96 KIRKBIE KENDALL. last removed also to Carlisle, and in 1837, Thomas Woof, tea dealer, carried on his business. In an upper front room the Plymouth Brethren first held their meetings. The next shop to the south has recently been rebuilt and fronted in No. 37. red bricks ; a welcome bit of bright colour amid the sombre lime stone grey. Here formerly stood (1737) the " Castle and Griffin Inn," which was occupied by Robert Chamley in 1742 until his death in 1746. When, however, the inn closed its doors as a public house, a large hosiery business was carried on here by Leonard Cooper, whose daughter Margaret, was married in 1751 to John Crewdson, hosier. Cooper had his warehouse down the yard, in the building now occupied by Wm. Jackson, painter. He was succeeded by his son Joseph, on whose retirement the premises were occupied by a Mrs. Sleddall, who carried on a fashionable milliner's business behind the quaint old bay windows. Her daughter Hannah, in 1794, married Edmund Tatham, a worthy doctor who had his surgery in the warehouse behind, and here was born their benevolent son Dr. Tatham of Stramongate, in 1797. In the year 1835 Samuel Rhodes moved across the way to this building, to carry on his fast increasing drapery business, to which was added that of dealing in cheeses. As a trade sign Rhodes hung out a large wooden cheese until the year 1844, when the development of other departments in his drapery trade compelled him to devote the whole of his time to them. All can remember the curious low ceilinged shop and the first rate establishment of his two kindly sons, John and William, and many there are ofthe present day who greatly miss it, and bear the highest respect for the life and trade of these partners. Y rt 3Q *n ^e ^arc^ a from {ts sunless aspect, is more generally known as " The Dark Yard." So dark and dismal is it that the real name of II? KIRKBIE KENDALL. :/fonp ") ffrvtn. L O.A *DOWj Cl^) ia Cabinet, Chair Maker, and Upholsterer; (.. ^s/taAaf ?/*y?//*t a//.tJr>rt/h rf,SlrHo*//r?/r/' L/UrruJu-rc'? $. //^.^n£,/u'u^idtyrrj^t^fr£/ne- *mr>,?r- < yf?a.tr>narr/f &%a/ev,/r/7.fif//.?/*kj£ne '//wri** v C!^- — and mofr Fashionable Patterns r^_N — Facsimile of Business Card. " The Golden Chair Yard " strikes one as a curiously pic turesque misnomer. My illustration of Railton's business card, issued about the year 1780, is, I think, a sufficient clue to the origin of the name. In the front house John Carter, the plumber and tempe rance advocate, had his office and work shop, which are now tenanted by his suc cessor, William Jack son. To whom the T initials I I on the 1760. spouthead refer to I cannot ascertain. Foot Bridge Lane Or Jennings' Yard is named after William Jennings, a preacher among the Unitarian Baptists, and perhaps the stoutest and heaviest man that the town has ever contained; circumstances which led to his sobriquet of " Bishop Jennings." He was a corn merchant, grocer, cheese monger, and oh horrors ! an architect as well. At least he was so to the Blue Buildings ; surely, as the Scotch would say, he must have been a man of pairts. At the time of the Lancaster cheese fair many hundreds of cheeses might be seen piled up in front of his shop at the head of the yard, so as to entirely block the parapet, and in a similar way, whilst engaged in stock-taking, the path was so filled with barrels of sugar and SOUTERGATE— THE EAST SIDE. no treacle as to preclude the possibility of getting past them without soiling your clothes. A prosperous man who gained for himself, so it is said, no great love from his neighbours by reason of his cornering and controlling, with " Bull Andrews," the corn market, before the repeal of the corn laws. However, he was a Blue, and that was quite sufficient to induce Jimmy Wiggins to write a poem on his death in 1823, of which the following are a few lines extracted : — " The Term allotted for us Mortals here Is but a span, a few short fleeting years ; When William Jennings closed a life of care He left this world a better world to share. ' Tis friendship prompts these lines, for he was true To Independence and the cause of Blue, Industrious, temperate, in his dealings fair ; Of knowledge he had got an equal share. His talents as an orator were good, He spoke the truth, as every patriot should. The Union Buildings will an emblem be And hand his name down to posterity." — (Jimmy Wiggins). Just past the narrow gap which led to the Baptist Chapel there is a flight of steps which led up to Miss Duncan's girls' school. Further down in the croft there is a large building that projects out, formerly a cordwainer's factory, carried on by William Ferguson and George Brown, and which has now been converted into dwelling houses. The next building is the old Jenning's Yard Sunday School, established in 1785, and kept in 1845 by the worthy master, Thomas Atkin. The building was originally erected as a card school, where the boys were taught to set cards for the use of the woollen manufacturers. Beyond is a playground which, at one time, was part of the Abbot Hall Grounds. The why and the wherefore of the different lines of frontages that No. 163. ,, TT. , , . ,. , we notice so repeatedly in Highgate, but more especially on the western side of the Butchers' Rows, would form in itself a most interesting study. Surely it must lead us back to the early days when the roads were very different from what they now are. Days when there would be just the central horse track, bordered perhaps by grass or earthen side wastes. Each proprietor then would set up his thatched house without any thought for his neighbour or any line to dictate its bearing. Slight encroachments, bit by 120 KIRKBIE KENDALL. bit, but who was there to say him nay. A street view up Highgate must have been a great temptation, both for business and idle pleasure. The most audacious built out, as we know, right into the road as far as the track would allow them. But such houses have long since been swept away to accommo date vehicular traffic. The less bold, but wiser, pushed out just sufficient to gain their coveted side window, and I should think that these are they, or at least some of them, which so delightfully break the monotony of our street lines of to-day. So here in this projecting shop we find not only the side window, but a doorway cunningly placed so as to afford the greatest temptation to the passer by to notice and step in at. And over it there used to be, supported on the cornice, a pestle and mortar, an emblem erected when Edward Greaves had the premises for a druggist's shop. When he removed to Stricklandgate, James Pennington entered in and carried on a grocery business, until he removed up into Highgate ; and then Wildman, the predecessor of James .Gibson, the present owner, converted the place into a butcher's shop. I have but scanty notes about these two shops. When No. 167 and 169. , ^ , ., ,. , the good old Inghamite, James Cookson, a tailor, lived in the former, and George Robinson, a cordwainer, lived in the latter, the doors were in the centre, with small and shabby windows on either side, but when John the son of James Cookson became owner about forty-five years ago, he rebuilt the fronts and placed the doorways where they are now. My only other note is that when Leonard Marr succeeded Robinson, he sold cakes and spices upstair and small quantities of coal from his cellar below, the doorway to which is partly visible to-day. , -.,., Everyone in passing should notice the fine old cellar door iust Yard 171. . . inside the entry. A door studded with iron nails and fastened with a quaint old padlock. Down the yard there used to be a most successful school carried on by old Mrs. Knipe at the beginning of the XIXth century. She had both boys and girls under her care, and many of the former made their mark in the world in after days. Such for instance were William Bowness the portrait painter, William Garside the engraver and sculptor, and James Whitaker for many years the esteemed master of the Blue Coat School. SOUTERGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 121 Beyond a gateway led out into the "long lonning," another of those curious narrow gulfs, much frequented in days gone by, by those who lived about here and in the Dowker Hospital, for gaining access to the river side. No 173 ^e next k°use was once a tavern under the sign of " The Sun." Here Edward Greaves the druggist first had his shop, and when he removed to No. 163 it was transformed into a private house of hewn limestone, where Edward Brown the coach builder resided for many years. It has now become a sub post office. No 177 T*"S °*d tumble down house which was once the " Seven Stars " tavern, is justly famed for being the first museum of William Todhunter. Started in the year 1796, it remained here until after 1800, in which year the Carlisle papers publish an advertisement respecting admission to it as follows : — " Wm. Todhunter returns his most grateful thanks to the ladies and gentlemen who have patronized his museum, and generously contributed to it, and informs them that he has now been able to add many valuable specimens, and has re-arranged the whole systematically in two rooms, fitted up for the purpose and ornamented with shellwork, etc. He has now collected together Minerals, Shells, Petrifactions, Incrustations, Crystali- zations, Spars, Maries, and many curious fossils, Mosses, Lichens, and plants of spontaneous growth, a variety of Birds, Quadrupeds, Fishes and Coins, Medals, Antiques and curiosities originally belonging to Kendal Castle, • sculptures from Furness Abbey, Basaltes from the Giant's Causeway, Musical stones from Kendal fell, and some curious specimens of mechanism, &c, &c. Admittance, ladies and gentlemen 1/- each ; children, working people and servants 6d. each. Open from 7 a.m. till 10 p.m., Sundays excepted." Up the yard, No. 175, there is a second narrow entry, which is common in places of any antiquity, and I can only regret that I have not had the time to illustrate this most romantic and picturesque corner. _ , . ww ... It is not certain whether the museum or the modern Dowker s Hospital. gateway which leads to Abbot Hall was the site where George Wilson had his warehouse. Alderman Joseph Dawson, who was elected mayor in 1702, I find devised in the year 1722 to the mayor, &c, a field in Natland called Round Dale, containing one acre three roods and six. 122 KIRKBIE KENDALL. perches, and also his "dwelling house and warehouse adjoining Mr. George Wilson's, upon trust to dispose of the rents thereof towards the advancement ofthe charity and maintenance ofthe Blue Coat boys in Kendal, and in case that charity should at any time be discontinued, amongst twelve aged housekeepers. RULES, ORDERS, AND Regulations n B' 5» HOSPITAL SPINSTERS. Dorothy Dowker, daughter of James Dow ker the deputy recorder, who died May 15th, 1831, bequeathed £3242 to the mayor, &c, that they should " nominate six fe males of good and chaste character, born in Kendal, having attained the age of fifty years, without having been married and whose situation in life should require some assistance and that they should hire or provide a home or building in the said town for their reception." In the year 1832, the trustees agreed with the treasurer of the Blue Coat School for the hire of Dawson's house, upon which was laid out a sum of £450 from the funds of the Blue Coat Charity, and the rent payable was fixed at £35 Per annum. Both charities had the same trustees and so this easy arrangement was come to as being beneficial to both. Miss Maria Wilson augmented the fund by £1000 in 1839 and by another £1097 at ner death in 1863. On a freestone tablet 1. Every Spinster who shall be admitted into this Charitable Institu tion, shall regularly reside in the House allotted to her, and shall not be absent without obtaining leave from two or more of the Trustees. 2. The Spinsters shall regularly attend Divine Service at the Parish Church, on Sundays ; also on Christmas Day, Good Friday, Ascension Day, Ash Wednesday, New Year's Day, the Epiphany, and such other occasions as the Trustees may direct. 3. The Spinsters shall live quietly and peaceably together, and be as sistant to each other both in health and sickness. 4. The Spinsters shall weekly cleanse the fronts of their allotted Houses, and carry the sweepings or rubbish to the place appointed. 5. No Spinster shall have any Lodger in her house, unless in case of sickness, infirmity, or some other cause, to be approved of by the Trus tees ; nor shall any Spinster have more than one lodger, and that <*. female, in any case whatsoever. 6. The Iron Gate leading to the Front Door of the House adjoining the Street, as also the Iron Gate leading through the Passage to the other Houses in the said Premises, and the Dour leading to the River Side, shall not be opened before Six o'clock in the Morning, nor stand open after Nine o'clock in the Evening, from Lady-day to Michaelmas, yearly ; nor shall they be opened before Day-break, nor stand open after Day-close, for the remaining part of the Year. (Signed) JOSEPH SWAINSON, Mayor. THOS. HOLME MAUDE, Senior Alderman. JOHN HARRISON, Senior Alderman. J. HUDSON, Vicar. January ist, 1835 HUDSON AND NICHOLSON, PRINTERS, KENDAL. REDUCED COPY OF THE RULES. ETC. SOUTERGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 123 are the Dowker arms, being Argent a fess wavy between three ducks Sable, or as it is commonly put " Six ducks but never a drake," and the date 1833. In a large upper room in the yard behind, a school master bearing the not uncommon name of Wilson formed an educational establishment, the boys of which, it is said, found their chief delight and recreation in periodical fights with Sampson's boys from the Church Yard School. " Lord Harrowby " was generally the cause of these conflicts, Wilson's boys defending and Sampson's boys persecuting his lordship. Who Harrowby was and for why he was persecuted I shall have cause to enter into when speaking about his house in Kirkland. From here also " John Lough respectfully informs his friends, the public generally, and the mechanics especially of Kendal and Kirkland that he has taken and intends, on the 4th day of February, 1833, to enter upon and open the schoolroom recently occupied by Thomas Skaife, where he intends to resume the arduous avocations of a schoolmaster. The terms of tuition will be, per week : — reading, 3d. ; reading and writing, 6d. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic, 8d. ; — ' Who would not weep To see, for want of skill, the youthful eye Vacant and dead, flounder from word to word, From page to page, nor cull one single thought In all its route ? ' " John Lough seems also to have added to his labour by undertaking the gentle art of writing epistles and love messages for his clients at a moderate charge. He takes care, therefore, to add as a footnote to his prospectus that " persons may place the utmost confidence in his not revealing the contents either of those letters that he may write, or of those that he may peruse for the purpose of being answered." The Schoolhouse is now the residence of two out of the six inmates of Miss Dowker 's Charity. So named after the old house built on the church lands where the stables now are, granted to St. Mary's Abbey, York, and which was probably the abbot's residence or place where he held his court. How the site became private property is not known, but the present hall was built in 1759, at the cost of £8,ooo, by Colonel George Wilson of Dallam 124 kirkbie Kendall. SOUTERGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 125 Tower. John Carr, Lord Mayor of York, was the architect. It is said that the somewhat modern carriage way was made on account of an accident happening to a Duke's carriage in the narrow Peppercorn Lane, which was at first the only entrance to the Hall. Colonel Walk is supposed to have taken its name from the Colonel's habit of walking there. He also widened the river on the east side, so as to prevent, if possible, the overflowing of the stream on to his beautiful grounds. The hall was put up tor sale in the year 1768, when the eminent English judge, Sir Alan Chambre, purchased the property. He resided here till 1801, at which date it was again sold to Christopher Wilson, banker. Sir Alan died at the Crown Inn, Harrogate, September 20th, 1823, aged 83, and was buried in the Chambre chapel of our parish church. There are about six acres of beautiful grounds adjoining the hall, the whole of which were purchased by the Corporation in 1896 for the sum of £3>75°> towards which cost the directors of the Kendal Bank for Savings contributed £2,500, in consideration of the pleasure grounds being dedicated and thrown open to the use of the public. The Bank Directors also caused to be erected a freestone monolith fountain in commemoration of this, upon the four sides of which are representations of the intricate knots and bands to be met with on the best known runic columns in the district. The house of two stories, which has recently given way to Mr. Richmond's new erection, was at one time the residence of Dr. Wood, connected with the clever though savage practitioners known as the " Old Field Lane Doctors " of Manchester. Once upon a time a little boy was taken to him by his father, with a dreadfully broken and bruised finger, whereupon the doctor, without saying a word, took up a large pair of common scissors lying beside him and ruthlessly clipped off the finger, to the consternation of the poor father and the horror of many onlookers. As a veterinary he dealt with horses and other animals in the same strange manner, which often proved most offensive to the public feeling of the town. _ , , _ This square croft with houses on every side was formed in Colonel Square. the year 1759, when Colonel George Wilson rebuilt his Hall. In the Cumberland Pacquet for July 25th, 1788, John Taylor, Esq., 126 KIRKBIE KENDALL. advertises an estate in Westmorland in lots ; with lot 4, the Abbot Hall " Square between the street and Wilson's Field, consisting of ten Dwelling Houses, a Cow House and Hay Loft at the yearly rental of £55," &c. Blindbeck runs behind the southern houses, and on the front pavement there used to be, until 1822, steps down to the stream, where water could be got or yarn washed. In the last shop in Highgate, No. 187, there is a good oak staircase and some plaster work of considerable note. 127 SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. WE must now return back again opposite to the Town Hall bells, which, for want of more and larger apertures, throw out, straight from the teeth, as it were, their clang across the way. Tintinnabulations distracting all thought, defying all study, and which, in envying the deaf, make you to exclaim with the Frenchman : — " Disturbers ofthe human race, Whose charms are always ringing, I wish the ropes were round your necks, And you about them swinging." N -_ The block of buildings at the foot of All Hallows Lane has been termed not inaptly, " the New Biggin ofthe present day," for this unsightly corner is almost as great an obstruction in passing down the lane as the ancient original was in Highgate. The first draper residing here of whom we have any record was Joseph Clarke, one of the capital burgesses of the Corporation. He seems to have been a useful member of that august body, and on more than one occasion, in company with Edward Busher, collected all the town rates free of cost. In his day the shop became a rendezvous where gentlemen met to chat over the news that arrived by coach ; a pleasant place and jovial tradesmen, but a custom detrimental to his business. George Barrow succeeded and caused a sign board to be erected by which he announced the shop as the " Manchester and Bradford House," and when Roland Parke took over the business he altered the name to the " Manchester and Luton House." It is still a drapery establishment, and can boast of being the first shop to introduce bow windows for the display of the season's goods. w At the beginning of the XIXth century, a well known grocery and wine store business was carried on here by Simpson and Harrison. John Simpson is described upon his altar tomb in Sedbergh parish churchyard as a " merchant of Kendal, died 1818." 128 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The junior partner, Daniel Harrison, had been a neighbour and compeer with the well known naturalist, William Pearson, of Crosthwaite, who spent a year of his life with this firm in order to learn the business. The path in life of these two friends, however, soon diverged. The one became a prosperous wine merchant in Kendal, the other a banker's clerk in Manchester. The next occupants in the same line of business were John and R. Thompson. At this time the shop windows were long and oblong in shape, with a cellar door beneath each. I then find the shop to be let in 1828, after which time John Parkin set up his ironmonger's business here. Parkin was a keen politician and a strong protectionist, of whom it is recorded that when the repeal of the corn laws was celebrated in Kendal by a grand procession on the 7th day of July, 1846, his was the only shop in the town that kept open. In October, 1863, Joseph Richardson started the first penny paper in this shop, the Kendal Times, Westmorland Reporter, and Lake District Advertiser, in opposition to the two old established papers costing at that time 4$d. The first issue on January 2nd, 1864, appears to have caused considerable excitement. Highgate was crowded by hundreds of people waiting for its publication, and no fewer than 2,064 papers were sold over the counter between the hours of six and ten o'clock in the evening. For the further history of this paper see under the heading of " The Mercury Office," Finkle Street. High up near the ceiling at the back of this shop there is to be seen a remarkably fine piece of plaster fresco surrounding the date and initials I. D.D. 1683, but to whom they refer I cannot ascertain. The ceiling is enriched by several embossed plaster flowers and a rich cornice. The first note that I can find of the old house is that in bygone days it was the " Queen Catherine Inn," probably so named as a tribute to the good lady born in our castle. It was occupied by Agnes Tate until she removed to the " Blue Bell," in Stramongate, and then by a Miss Brown. At the end of her tenancy it was sold by auction, a fate which again happened to it in the year 1844, when William Wilkinson changed the sign to that of the " Queen Victoria." " The Queen some day, may pass this way, and see our Tom and Jerry ; Perhaps she'll stop, and stand a drop, to make her subjects merry," SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. i2g When Henry Mackreth bought the property the inn was converted into a grocer's shop. However, he kept the licence, and what is still known as the " Roebuck Inn," up the yard, was opened by him. Where the fruiterer's shop now is, Alderman William Petty formerly No. 52. lived until his death in 1792. Not only was he twice elected mayor of the borough, but he successively kept the " Crown and Mitre," " White Lion," and " King's Arms " Inns. After his day the house was converted into a druggist's shop for Thomas Webster, and subsequently into Benjamin Broadbent's grocery establishment. Broadbent played the bass fiddle at the New Street Chapel, and carried on a painter and glazier's business in the Woolpack yard. To this house came Alderman Samuel Rhodes about the year 1830, No. 58. where he remained till his removal across the way in 1835. Elizabeth Winder followed Rhodes in the same line of business ; and then Sarah Astley commenced a confectionery shop, who was followed by Mr. William Jenkinson. The next shop was the grocery and tallow chandlery establishment of William Kidd. He refronted the building with hewn limestone. But at the beginning of the XIXth century I find that one Jackson kept a grocer's shop here, and concerning which the following extract from the Carlisle Journal is somewhat amusing. February 7th, 1801 : — " A few days ago a woman went into the shop of Mr. Jackson in Kendal and purchased a quantity of fine wheat flour, which she ordered to be put into a bag she had brought for that purpose. She then bought some of an inferior quality, but not having a bag to put it in she went home for another, without paying for either, but leaving what was thought to be the first bag on the counter. Not returning, Mr. Jackson was led to open the bag, when, to his great surprise, he found that his flour was converted into ashes." This bank was started in New Street, July, 1833, Westmorland Bank. . , . , . _ , , .iL with a capital of £230,000 in 2,500 shares, and with John Gandy as chairman. The Gazette described the notes as being "very beautiful and quite out of the reach of forgers." The present building, erected by the shareholders in the year 1834, is surmounted with a life-size i jo KIRKBIE KENDALL. bronze lion couchant, painted in imitation of the stone. How much handsomer it would have been without the paint ! It displaced some very old property, amongst which was the shop of Barbara Gray, who seems to be almost as historical, in this district at least, as Bessie Bell and Mary Gray of the nursery rhyme. But Barbara Gray's popularity with the lads and lasses of some 70 years ago seems to have been through the sale of her chief articles of commerce, the never-to-be-forgotten "ho-porth of aw macks," her toffee "pigginbottoms," mint cake, and liquorice sticks that surrounded her, as she stood clad in clean bedgown and white cap. It may not be generally known that a gill of ale is locally called a "Kitty" in this town, and it is to the husband of Barbara that Kendal is indebted for this designation of one of its measures. At the beer shops, whilst others called for their pints or quarts, Kitty Gray contented himself with his gill; and indeed it became so noticeable that, when only the smaller measure was wanted, the common call in future became for a " kitty-o-yal." Barbara died in 1830 at the ripe old age of 88 years. - ,.. ~ -. The names of Collin Croft and Collin Field are probably Collin Croft. r J imported from Scotland by persons of that name, and seem to indicate a common origin. The late Alderman Fisher inclined to the belief that the business carried on at the Croft may have provided the funds for the building of the suburban dwelling. However, at best, this can only be considered a conjecture. I find it first mentioned in 1727, when there was " paid gd. to John Thornburrow for bringing wood to the Church from Collin Croft." On a building up the Croft was a freestone sculptured lintel, now in my possession, depicting a hare closely persued by two hounds, and whether or not there has been a public house known as the " Hare and Hounds " here, or whether it has, at one time, been a stone inserted for ornament's sake must also be left for future discovery to determine. Opposite to this stone was a malt kiln, which had two freestones acting as side jambs to a doorway, now in my possession, each being engraved with verses from the Psalms, and bearing the date 1699. Can it be possible that these once belonged to the ancient All Hallows Chapel ? SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 131 At the beginning of the XIXth century, all the coal came to Kendal in sacks from either Whitehaven or Ingleton, and was sold in open market beside the New Biggin. The first coal yard was commenced in 1811 by Joseph Robinson up this lane. Malt Shovel " The Malt Shovel>" with its signboard of a wooden shovel, such as is used by maltsters, was at first in the house at the head ofthe lane, and was then kept by John Nicholson, who removed the sign to its present site. It was put up for sale by auction in September, 1853. Hadwin's ironsmith's shop was once used by Thomas Cornthwaite, and in the Cumberland Pacquet for August 23rd, 1796, I find the following notice of his death : — " On the 17th inst. at Kendal, aged 56 years, after a long and tedious illness which he bore with Christian fortitude and resignation, Mr. Thomas Cornthwaite iron-founder and whitesmith. Within these few years he obtained two premiums and one medal from the Society of Arts. He also procured a patent for one lock, which was attended with eminent success, and he was the inventor of several brass cased gate locks, acting upon principles entirely new and which are now universally approved of and generally used in most parts of the Kingdom. The Royal Society allowed him to be one of the greatest mechanics in the North of England." His tombstone in the church yard says : — " The fame of this truly ingenious mechanic need not be sounded here, he hath raised to himself a more durable monument in the many useful inventions by which he hath contributed to the good of mankind." _ „ This stream which now flows beneath Highgate just at this Cross Gutter. • & J point and into the Kent, used formerly to be an open channel, and, like a similar one at the foot of Capper Lane, was only covered over about the year 1810. The portion of this house which now projects outward is of modern date, but on its site projecting out further as far as the curb-stones, there used to be the smith and farrier's shop of Cuddy Coupland, until his death in 1776. A person of the name of Salkeld also had a cordwainer's shop here, but at what date I do not know. At the close of the XVIIth century the site upon which this snug house now stands was pasture land belonging to one Nicholas 132 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Atkinson. But it must have been soon after built upon, as I find that in the year 171 1 Joseph Dawson sold his messuage and tenement to George Longmire. From this period up to the year 185 1 when John Grayson bought the freehold, the property has changed hands no fewer than 13 times. _, , , , Six years elapsed after the closing of the Shakespeare Theatre and Inn. Woolpack Yard play house, before the New Theatre was built and named after the immortal Shakespeare. It was opened on June 22nd, 1829, and I have in my possession the first programme bill, announcing that the theatre will be opened with " a Powerful and Efficient Company, from the Principal Provincial Theatres in the Kingdom, under the management of Mr. Stevens, from the Theatre Royal, Manchester. Previous to the play of ' Rob Roy,' an appropriate Address, written expressly for the occasion, will be delivered by Mr. Stevens in character, after which the celebrated National Anthem of god save the king, will be sung by the entire of the Corps Dramatique. At the end of the Play a New Popular Farce, entitled ' the Green Eyed Monster ' will be performed. Leader of the Band — Mr. Cuthbert, from the Theatre Royal, Edinburgh. Admission — Boxes 3s., Pit 2s., and Gallery is." Here the celebrated actor, Vandenhoff, played in " Hamlet," " Othello," and " King Lear," and here, too, Kemble and Keen have worked their art; but Kendal would have none of it, and so for five short years it lived, doomed before its birth to close its doors again. In the year 1834 the theatre was converted into a ball room and billiard room, and here a public ball was held in March, 1863, to celebrate the Prince of Wales' marriage. The year following the erection of the stage, the " Shakespeare Inn " was built by Thomas Simpson of Watch Field ; partly, it is said, to supply refreshment to those attending the theatre, and partly as a counterblast to the earnest endeavours of the Temperance Society, which at that time was making strenuous efforts in the town. The keystone of the entrance arch bears the T S date jg " This new inn, now set back in a line with its neighbours, stands upon the site of some old galleried houses, one of which projected a considerable way into the street, causing the old gateway into the Sands Hospital to feel right in a corner. Here Dolly Jackson lived and kept a shop wherein she sold her sweets, being almost as great a favourite with the boys and lassies as Barbara Gray. SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 133 A***,," Sandes Coat of Arms. Sandes Hospital. This interesting old building for poor widows still presents its front to the street, and probably but little changed in appearance, although the wide wings were raised when the almshouses were rebuilt in 1852. The gateway bears the inscription in freestone, gilt, S. T. K., for Thomas and Katherine 1659 Sandes, the founders ; whilst an assumed coat of arms, combining the family arms with those connected with the shearman dyers, discloses the source of his property. The shearman dyers' arms appear to be — Argent, two hande — cards vert, and a pair of shears chevron wise proper ; and the arms of Sandes — Or, a fess dancette Gules, between three cross crosslets fitchy. In the front windows over the entry are three diamond shaped panes with stained figures of implements of trade used by the shearman dyers. Sandes was a dealer in Kendal cottons, mayor in 1647-8, and founded the hospital and school on the 6th of September, 1670, eleven years after the erection of the front building, supporting the charity himself in the meantime. The indenture says, " whereas the said Thomas Sandes hath saved a considerable share of his temporal estate by buying and selling of woollen cottons com monly called Kendal cottons, and being mindful to set apart one convenient dwelling house within Kirkby Kendal for the use of eight poor widows, to exercise carding, spinning of wool, and weaving of raw pieces of cloth for cottons called Kendal cottons ; and for the use of a schoolmaster to read prayers to the said widows twice a day, and to teach poor children (Blue Coat) till prepared for the free school of Kendal or elsewhere. He, therefore, the said Thomas Sandes, grants to the said Corporation certain messuages and land for the purpose aforesaid. The widows to be of the age of 50 years or upwards ; three of them to be chosen out of Strickland gate, three out of Stramongate and Highgate, one out of Blue Coat Bov. J34 KIRKBIE KENDALL. SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 135 Stricklandgate Roger and Ketel, and one out of Skelsmergh and Patton. Further, that if at any time upon a vacancy there should be no widow in the said Stricklands, Skelsmergh, and Patton, it should be lawful for the trustees to choose a single woman of good reputation, and a worker of wool, but who should not be allowed to marry." By deed dated 10th September, 1670, the mayor, aldermen, and burgesses of Kendal appointed Robert Kilner and Anthony Beck, their attorneys, to accept seisin from the hands of Thomas Sandes of and in the premises called Eidge Bank, Baxton Holme, and Kettle Croft, omitting the burgage house in Highgate (which appears to have been then occupied by the widows), and also omitting the premises at Wasdale Head. In the same year I find that this burgage house and tenement, with two gardens and a croft in Highgate, were of the ancient yearly rent of sixteen shillings. Concerning the moiety of the property at Wasdale Head, I find it was held by Christopher Crackenthorpe under the yearly rent in the whole of 9s. nd. It was purchased by Thomas Sandes from Thomas Gilpin of Barker Garth in Yorkshire. But when the Charity Commissioners visited this part in 1815, they reported that the moiety had not been in the possession of the trustees for a great number of years. It was stated that an action was brought by a Mr. Brown, the owner of the other moiety, against the trustees, and that he recovered the property. The Commissioners, however, could learn no particulars of this transaction, excepting that in consequence of the law suit the widows' houses were for a time shut up and not re-opened again till the time ofthe Rev. Thomas Symond's incumbency (1744 — 1789). The founder also bequeathed a library which, by subsequent contributions, has been increased to upwards of 400 volumes. Amongst these are several works of the fathers of the third, fourth, and fifth centuries, with volumes of the Greek and Latin authors. Any person is allowed to read the books in the library, but no one is suffered to take them out, and such care was used for their safety that those left by the founder were, for a length of time, fastened to the shelves with chains just long enough to enable the reader to take them to the table ; but this insulting and suspicious precaution has been long since discontinued, nor are the poor aged widows any longer expected to carry on a manufactory of " Kendal Cottons." 136 KIRKBIE KENDALL. In the entry is an iron drop box recessed back in a niche with the initials T.S. raised upon the lid. Over the niche there is a large stone bearing the inscription " Remember the poore," to which at some later period has been added in modern letters the words " Remember the poor widows." The following extract is from the Cumberland Pacquet for June 7th, 1785 : — " The following convictions and penalties were inflicted last week at Kendal on different offenders, viz., Sarah Bradley, wife of Samuel Bradley, weaver, convicted of selling cotton and worsted materials intrusted to the care of her husband, to be imprisoned 14 days and publicly whipt. Jane Procter of Stainton, on turning informer against her accomplices and giving up four gowns, the materials of which were bought of the said Sarah Bradley. The gowns were given to four widows of the hospital in Kendal." From this and from the following extracts it would seem that between the years 1784 to 1792 the widows were considered paupers : — ¦ 1784, March 9, Frances Bellingham of Sandy's Hospital, pauper, aged 37. 1785, December 7, Agnes Ellerton of Sandy's Hospital, pauper, aged 87. 1786, January 31, Mary Farrer of Sandy's Hospital, pauper, aged 73. 1792, February 9, Elizabeth Pennington of Sandy's Hospital, pauper, aged 85. Amongst the orders set down to be kept by the widows and schoolmaster, there are several for the internal management of the establishment. Amongst others it is ordered that every widow shall remain a widow upon pain of deprivation if she marry ; that the schoolmaster shall pay the widow's allowances and deduct therefrom 6d, every quarter for each widow, so as to raise in every three years six shillings a piece towards the buying for them new gowns, and that he shall make up the deficiency ; that he shall take care of the library and shall not suffer any books to be removed therefrom, but shall keep a catalogue and shall suffer men of quality and learning to have free access thereto ; that he shall inform of every offence done by the said widows, and shall be careful to keep the house of manufacture and so much of the premises as the under tenants are not bound to do, in good repair. Beyond the round arched entry was a square court with low roofed cottages for the widows, four on either side and a large building at the end, almost similar in design to the front house. On either side of the square entry leading through to the gardens beyond were receptacles for firing stuff, SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 137 reminding us of a clause in the founder's will that each widow should have brought her in the week before Christmas a good horse load of wood by the tenants of the bequeathed premises in Skelsmergh and Strickland Roger. On the north side of the same entry an oak staircase led upward to the " Great Room," where was collected the library. But as I have said, all these old buildings have now disappeared, and in the year 1852 they were rebuilt on the north side only, with the library in the centre of the row. On a S tablet are the initials and date T K 1659, rebuilt 1852. Outside the iron gates which have taken the place of the original wooden doors, whose heavy locks were always pushed to and bolted at ten o'clock in the evening, formerly stood a public weighing machine under the window at the right hand of the entrance. Within, a pump stood in the square near to the master's kitchen, which doubtless would be put up when most of the other wells in Kendal were sunk, about the middle of the XVIIIth century. Previous to this time it is probable that all the required water was fetched down from the horse spout and fountain which stood just outside the gateway leading on to the Garth Heads from the master's garden. Mr. Sandes died on the 22nd day of August, 1681, aged 75, and there is a beautiful white veined marble monument to his memory in the church. It con tains a highly eulogistic Latin epitaph whichr as translated concludes thus :— " He departed, he did not die, for he cannot die, Whilst virtue is in men, or history records its praise. Alas ! Alas ! Perishable marble may be silent ; But, than all marble more lasting, And than even the Egyptian pyramid more enduring, He built for himself a monument. An almshouse for Poor Old People." In the Boke of Recorde there is an entry of an order ue Coat Sc 00 . ^^ at a Court of thg Mayor and Aldermen, on the 25th day of March, 1641, " Whereby on consideration of the great number of children resorting to the free school, which doubtless did hinder the perfecting of many and that the Usher was much burdened and surcharged, it was ordered that the Usher should not teach or admit any child not capable to 138 KIRKBIE KENDALL. read the psalter, or that could not read some English, but should disallow such as learnt in the Horn Book, A. B.C. and Primer." It would seem therefore that it was in consequence of this order that our worthy Thomas Sandes founded this school to teach and instruct poor children gratis that should come to the master to be taught, at such times as other schoolmasters did teach, until they should be fitted for the Free School or elsewhere. Soon after the school was thus commenced in 1670, there is an item in the churchwardens' books of money being spent " for formes whereon to seat the sixteen charity children." No doubt at first the school would meet in one of the front rooms, but as time went on and the numbers increased, it was removed to the " Great Room " where was the library. The instruction seems also to have been extended to girls, for in a memorandum it is stated that " nine poor girls were taught there in 1714 by Isabel Fisher." It was in this year that Vicar Crosby and a highly public spirited body of subscribers commenced to clothe the scholars in blue, and by the year 1723, the donation list was so extended as to enable the number of children to be greatly increased. We have no information as to who filled the post of first schoolmaster, but the Newcastle Journal for January 10th, 1747, gives a most eulogistic reference to Enoch Le Tousey, master of the Charity School at Kendal, who had suddenly died during the previous week. His successor was Thomas Mackreth, of whom it is recorded on his gravestone in the churchyard, that he was 40 years master of the Hospital and Charity School and that he died in 1787. The next master was the Rev. Thomas Airey, who was here only for a short period, prior to his incumbency of Selside, and he was followed by a little deformed man named John Briggs, who died in early life. In the year 1795, a slip of ground was taken off the master's garden and a building erected thereon at a cost of some £200, for the boys to learn weaving and card setting in. The work was done for the boys own benefit, some of them earning thereby from 2s. 6d. to 3s. a week. The Rev. John Hudson, however, being treasurer to the school, put a stop to the custom, and one can only suppose, for some financial reason. John Taylor followed as schoolmaster, a yseful man, who continued Wharton and Pennington's Table of Chronological SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 139 Events from 1802 to 1823. His gravestone records that he died in 1827, aged 54 years. His successor, William Lewthwaite, held the mastership for ten years, and then James Whitaker followed for a period of more than forty years. When the Commissioners made their report in 1815, there .were 40 boys and 30 girls all clothed in blue, at an expense of £150 a year. After the year 1838, by reason of a bequest of 500 guineas from Edward BurreU, a poor Fellside lad, who became a partner in a Liverpool bank, the trustees were enabled to increase the number of boys to 45. In the year 1849, the school was once again taught in the " Great Room," when the building higher up the court was greatly improved by the removal of the weaving shop floor, the introduction of new lancet windows and an entrance porch. In the year 1886, under a scheme of the Charity commissioners, this school and the Grammar School (founded in 1525) were merged into one trust, and a number of free scholarships established in lieu of the clothing and former education. At the north corner of New Inn Yard, Tames McNaught, a master No. 92. . . coach builder, had his show rooms. The front walling having been removed so as to cause the space wherein he kept his handsome coaches to be open to the street. McNaught carried on a most prosperous business, so much so, that the old folk used to say that, " although his name was McNaught he macks a good deal." Edward Brown succeeded to him. The Cumberland Pacquet for August 4th, 1795, gives an New Inn Yard. r . , , , . , , account of a corn not that took place in the yard, when the carrier's warehouses were broken into and two cart-loads of oatmeal stolen therefrom. These old warehouses marked on Todd's plan, formed a large square, and were only removed with a disused malt kiln in order to make a building site for the Zion Chapel. «.. , ~. ~. . This chapel was built upon the site just above referred to, Old Zion Chapel. F v \ , in 1844, at a cost of about £1250, and opened on the 10th of October for the Rev. Dr. Guthrie, who seceded from the Presbyterian Church upon Morisonian views. In May, 1849, the Rev. William Taylor of Glasgow became minister, and the church so prospered under his care that the r4o KIRKBIE KENDALL. building very soon became too small for the congregation. New galleries were erected, and later on in 1862-3 the building was doubled in width to accommodate some 800 people. The Sunday school was first held in the Oddfellows' Hall in 1843, the old chapel then being in process of building, and, on its completion, the school was moved into the low room underneath. The next house is the " New Inn," now no longer new but New Inn. ° outwardly little altered, if we except the removal of the old latticed panes and the substitution of the modern sheet glass. Internally it is low, but has had, at some time, many good rooms, the black oak floors of which are pegged. In the kitchen is an old oaken cupboard carved with the F initials and date I A ; and there is also some decorated cornice work worthy 1658 of being scraped free from its innumerable coatings of lime-wash. Here was born the eminent English judge, Sir Alan Chambre, in 1739 ; and here, too, his grandfather, Alan, died in 1744, and his father, Walter, in 1753. Sub sequently in 1766 Sir Alan purchased Abbot Hall, and abandoned this family house with its " spacious entrance hall, transome windows, and fine garden extending to the Garth Heads." The house must have, very soon after Sir Alan's day, become a public inn, for we find in the year 1796 that the Friendly Society held its meetings here, and in October, 1802, the inn advertised to be let by ticket as " all that large and convenient traveller's and carrier's inn, containing in front 22 yards and in depth 10 yards. On the ground floor is a large kitchen, three parlours, a pantry, and other conveniences ; on Ihe upper floor is a good dining room and bedchambers that will contain fifteen to sixteen beds ; with a brewhouse, cellars, pump, and back yard, two stables containing forty stalls and hay lofts above them. At the same time will be let by ticket a large entire yard with a good pump and eight new built stables to contain fifty horses occupied by carriers, and two warehouses close adjoining, occupied by London, Leeds, Wigan, Liverpool, and Carlisle carriers ; also a coach house and granary." In 1811 George Chamley, proprietor, advertises a light post wagon from Manchester to Glasgow and Edinburgh, arriving at Kendal every day. Both HIGHGATE, KENDAL. SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 141 of which advertisements serve to shew that in the days of pack horses and stage coaches the " New Inn " must have been a not unimportant house. My last note is that it was put up for sale on the 25th day of September, 1819, when it was in the possession of Mrs. Burton, together with the extensive premises behind in the occupation of William Bousfield, Francis Webster, and others. " Mr. James McNaught, the owner, upon the premises, will show the same," &c, &c. ,~~ In the old house that stood upon this site, Hugh Holme, Deputy No. 100. . b • f j Recorder, of Highgate, Attorney-at-law and Postmaster, resided. His portrait, by Romney, is in the possession of the Corporation. He died on December 28th, 1765, and in the Newcastle Journal for January 18th, 1766, Mrs. Holme advertises to be sold to the highest bidder, " One of the largest houses in Town, fit for a family in genteel life. The Parlor, the Lobby, the Dining Room, and the other rooms on the Ground Floor are spacious and handsome, the Kitchen is large and full of conveniences, with a Pantry and three Cellars, the apartments on the second floor are perfectly neat and elegant, the rooms over them are well lighted and fit bedchambers for Domestics. The House is situated in the best part ofthe town, the front has a striking appearance and the whole is in complete order. There is a brew- house, wash-house and other offices with convenient rooms over them, four Stables and other stabling with a Granary and an exceeding good pump in the yard. The Garden is walled round, planted with a variety of fruit trees, and terminates with a pleasant Summer House on an eminence that commands an extensive view of the Town and Country adjacent." It is said to have been rebuilt about the year 1770 by a Quaker gentleman named Prixley Smith, who died on the 22nd of March, 1817. Subsequently it was occupied by Justice James Wilson, whose daughter was married to Christopher Wilson of Bank House, afterwards of Abbot Hall and Rigmaden Park. The next occupant was Isaac Braithwaite, drysalter, following whom came Alderman Samuel Whinerey, who resided here during his mayoralty in 1843 and 1849. When the Borough Surveyor, Crayston Webster, purchased the property, he again improved the frontage and converted the old square entry into the present rounded arch (said to be lath and plaster) beneath which the wooden doors have ever kept out intruders from time immemorial. 142 KIRKBIE KENDALL. A little further south is the two storied building with iron railings in front. It was formerly the residence of Samuel Milton, a linen draper who had extensive warehouseing in the rear. Close to was Benjamin Newton's, the Kirkby carrier, and Betty Wilson's, a confectioner, while at No. 68 was Cuthbert Coupland's smithy. The consecutive situations of these several shops and places of business suggested to some wit to string the names together into the following popular rhyme : — " Cuddy Coupland, smith and farrier ; Benjamin Newton, Kirkby carrier; Barrow and Milton, linen drapers; Jossey Lockey, periwig maker; Betty Wilson, bread (Kendal wigs) baker." , *~* It was up this yard that Gascoigne Barker, a girth manufacturer, Yard 104. , had his warehouse, which was subsequently turned to good account by Edward Wakefield as a meeting-house for the Plymouth Brethren to meet in on week days, the Whitehall Lecture Room only being used by them for their Sunday services. u-.,!.., j. •«!•• Here> in x7l6> hved the Deputy Recorder. Thomas Highgate View. r j . Shepherd of Natland Abbey. ,n_ On the bank stands an ancient house of two stories in striking contrast to the two lofty buildings on either side. It projects further on to the parapet than the Conservative Club, but it is in a line with the iron railing, and also with the end wall of the last house. It was formerly covered with thatch, and to this day can be seen the weathered tabling to a chimney-stack on the Club gable, which was also the flashing line for the steep-thatched roof. Formerly this was the residence of John Richardson, cabinet maker, who erected the old church pulpit, reading-desk, and clerk's pew in 1757. And here was born his gifted son John in 1774, who, as an architect-joiner, designed amongst other things the Methodist Chapel in 1808, the Shakespeare Theatre in 1829, the Castle Street Infant School in 1830 — for which, by the way, he received the handsome sum of £1 as architectural commission — and Town View in 1832. SOUTERGATE-THE WEST SIDE. H3 From all accounts, he seems to have been a remarkable man, possessing a great memory, astute at mathematics, and fond of his profession. The following characteristic lines, written before death by a friend for his epitaph, so pleased him, that, at his wish, it was placed over his remains :— " My earthly house has fallen to decay, The base was shaken, and the walls gave way ; The pillars that had borne its weight for more Than fourscore years, were mouldered at the core ; The rafters crumbled, and the light was faint That crept in at the win dows old and quaint ; While seam and crevice in the tottering shell For years let in the wind, when down it fell; The roof-tree, strong and sound, being last To topple beneath the resistless blast. Then, past repairs, I looked for no new plan Whereby to have rebuilt the outward man ; But calmly waited, with the world at peace, Nor would, when death approached, renew the lease ; Mr. and Mrs. John Richardson.* Yard 110. But humbly sought for my departing soul, Beyond the grave, eternally a place, Where it might still the grand creations trace Of God, the first great Architect of all." Through the entry is a building, approached by steps, which was at one time the Mechanics' Institute. Bank House, This building, which is now the Conservative Club, was formerly occupied by John Whitwell. It stands upon the * The above interesting illustration was taken May 13th, 1864, by J. H. Hogg, Mr. Richardson being on that day go years old, having been born at Kendal, May 13th, 1774. His wife was born at Lancaster, February gth, 1776. They were married at Kendal Church, August 23rd, 1806. 144 KIRKBIE KENDALL. site of an ancient house occupied in the upper storeys by what used to be the " Dyers' Arms," beneath which was Joseph Whitelock's periwig shop and Asbridge's shoemaker's shop. This " Jossey " was father to the celebrated pastor of St. George's Church — the Rev. William Whitelock, who, without doubt, was the most popular and zealous preacher that Kendal had in those days. At the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone times. Professional, as well as fashionable people, did not dare to appear in public without their wigs, and they vied with each other in size and style. These curious erections were introduced into this country about the time of the " Massacre of Paris," but they are not often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Some twenty years later they became popular. Charles II. forbade, we are told, " the members ofthe Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or read their sermons." The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the first two. Women, as well as men, called the periwig-maker into requisition to add to their charms, the hair being curled and frizzed with considerable care, and false curls added under the name of " heart-breakers." In the palmy days of wigs, the price of a full wig of an English gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. On the 5th of May, 1795, an Act of Parlia ment was passed taxing all persons a guinea for using powder to their hair. Pitt was in power, and, being sorely in need of money, hit upon this splendid plan, which in the first year produced no less than £210,136. A number of persons were exempt from paying the tax, including the Royal Family and their servants, the clergy with an income of under £100 per annum, and many military non-commissioned officers and privates in the army and navy. Fortunately the custom did not long continue in use, for in 1779 it was almost entirely abolished on account of the high price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. " Their hoarded grain contractors spare, And starve the poor to beautify the hair." Indeed, it is wonderful how the custom lived at all, for when we consider that at least a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupee or tower — that a head so dressed was rarely disturbed for ten days or a SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 145 fortnight, and that it was impossible to lie down without disarranging the structure the hairdresser had raised on a framework of wire, plastering with pomatum and disguising with powder, it needs no stretch of imagination to realise what great discomfort the fine ladies of the last century were willing to put up with. In 1869, the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only 600 persons paid it, producing about £1,000 per year. " Jossey " was sore distressed at being turned out of his old shop, where he had been for more than a quarter of a century, and reluctantly removed to a small house (since rebuilt) at the foot of the New Inn Yard, next door to a celebrated character — Keggy Pearson, a clock dresser, who also kept a mangle ! He died October 4th, 1789, but what became of his neighbour — the pious and exemplary man — Joseph Asbridge, shoemaker, we are not told beyond that he died on March 16th, 1795, aged 48. But to return to the present building raised upon these antiquated shops, I find that it was built in the year 1787 by the Rev. John Wilson, of Helsington, who was Prebendary of Durham and Bursar of Trinity College, Cambridge, and who died January 12th, 1791. It is said that he got his plans from Cambridge, that he was his own architect, that there were no builders' contracts, and that in consequence the house took so long to erect that the reverend gentleman declared Kendal building to be even " dreer than college work, and college work dreer than church work." The ceilings of the drawing and dining rooms are both painted, one subject representing Anthony and Cleopatra and the other a Scripture subject. The Club, which was founded in 1877, when the fortunes of the party had sunk to a very low ebb, at first met in some rooms on the opposite side of Highgate. The two elections of 1880, so quickly succeeding one another, lent a fresh impetus to its growth, and very soon their rooms proved too small, whereupon the present building was leased, converted into suitable premises at a cost of £1,500, and opened in November, 1881. The Bank Cross stood in the middle of the road on Bank Cross House. , . . TT. , TT.„ . iU , , , , the top of Highgate Hill in the days of pack horses, and when vehicular traffic was unknown. But when at last it had to be removed, it was walled into an old house which formerly stood on the site of 146 KIRKBIE KENDALL. this building. Here Christopher Fenton kept his post office, and when he rebuilt the premises in 1812 Fenton seems to have given strict orders to have the cross preserved. But, alas ! out of ignorance or contempt, it was broken to pieces, and the stone used for walling purposes. (See Kendal Mercury, May 26th and June 9th, 1877.) The ancient Roman Catholic custom of halting funerals at wayside crosses to pray for the souls of the faithful departed still survives opposite this house to the present time. No. 116. Vintnors' Coat of Arms. At the back of this house, which is set back a little from the road, there is a stone carved with the Vintnors' coat of arms, viz. : — A chevron between three barrels, two and one, surrounded with the inscription P " The Vintnors' Armes," and above W A 1677. The letters have been originally gilt, and partially remain so still. Whether or not this has at one time been a public-house cannot be ascertained, or to whom the initials belong. The modern sash windows replaced the small diamond panes about 1862. The house was built by a member of the Dallam Tower family, probably as a town or dower house. The arms of Wilson, impaled with those of Crowle, are still on the leaden spout-head in front of the property. The arms of Wilson are : — Argent, three wolves' heads couped Sable, vulned in the neck. The crest, which is to be seen at each joint of the pipe, is a hand grenade ; but this is not the crest of the Wilson family, although it somewhat resembles it. The same error of a hand grenade is noticeable over the entrance to Casterton Old Hall. The Wilson crest is a Crescent Or, therefrom flames issuant proper. Here resided at different periods, William Whitwell and William Mark. But in the year 1853, the gardens were built over for the new ale brewery ; in 1864 the beautiful renaissance panelled dining room was converted into an office, and the kitchens became a cooper's shop. The British wine business of Messrs. Whitwell, Mark & Co. was established in 1757, and they have cellarage accommodation here now for 40,000 gallons of wine, Brewery. SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. H7 No. 122. This fine °ld house> with a flight of freestone steps mounting northwards to the front door, was were John Whitwell lived, the grandfather to the late member of Parliament of that same name. No. 124. Here the bene volent William Holme lived, and with his ever-present kindness he caused two seats to be erected, one on either side of the entry, in order that travellers might stop awhile and take a rest. I have found pleasure, therefore, in illustrating this bit, not so much for YPKTD t^e- its architectural beauty as for the beauty of his kindly thought. No. 126. Here was born, in the year 1823, the eminent engineer, William Johnson. Having early displayed a taste for mechanical pursuits, a situation was obtained for him at the cotton manufactory of Messrs. Ainsworth, of Preston. There he remained studying the structure of the various machines within his reach, improving his knowledge of practical engineering, until the year 1843, when he entered the office of a civil engineer and devoted his life to that profession. Contributing articles to the mechanical papers of the day, he soon attracted the attention of the editor of the Glasgow Practical Mechanic's and Engineer's Magazine, who offered him the sub-editorship of that journal in 1845. That periodical having been given up in 1848, Johnson, young as he was, had the enterprise to start the Practical Mechanic's Journal entirely on his own responsibility, which he carried on with very marked success for many years. Soon after he undertook the business of a Patent Agent, and as this rapidly increased and required more attention than he could possibly give to it, he took into partnership his younger brother, John Henry Johnson, who opened a branch office in London. William died at Glasgow on the 10th day of June, 1864 ; and his brother, who for the last forty years had carried on and increased the business, has only just passed away in the month of March, 1900. 148 KIRKBIE KENDALL. No. 128. Here is the house where Dr. Ainslie lived with the remark that the " inhabitants require physic." His feelings on this matter are well % His M A J E S T Y \ Royal A u T H o R r T Yi TO tmSji**.ACE IS COM1* Doftrefs WOOD, (From 1, O, N D 0 N) Pra&itioftfc? in "Phyfic and Midwifery* WHO, hy many y^ats experience, bas Attained the art and Vpowledgc of cu ring moft curable diftempets incident to the human body. She gives pa tients her advtci at firft- fight, by informing them Whether their cliforders are cura ble or not, and will not take them in hand if incurable, on any confideratiori what ever ii^being known to every one who is acquainted wilh ?^r, that her fole aim is to do gOod to her fellow creatures,' particularly in that charitable work of giv ing fight to thofe who are almoft Wind, in which her practice has, by GOD's Helling, been attended witn very great fuccefs. She cures wounds in any parr of the body, ulcers, cancers, king's-evil, or old running fores. She has a fpeedy and never-failing cure for the blopdy flux, and convullion fitf. She cures the gravel and ftotie, artd All manner of deafriefs, provided the drum of the ear is not broken j. preat numbers of people wKo have been deaf many yeats have been hrought to their perfect hearing by her. She cures the ague, though of a long continuance, in a fhort time. She cures the fcUrvy, jhfiumalifm, yellow jaundice, hylteric fits, or fits of the mOtliet andipleen, and can cute the nerves ; and thofe who have loft the life of their limbs, by colds or otherwife, ihe reftorefe to their former ufe in a fhort time. She cures coughs, Conuimprjons, inward decays, rickets in children, ruptures, or broken bellies in young or old. 'She cures fiftulas and piles, alfo hard or foft corns in any part of the feet or toes. Bh& cures hair-lips, fcald heads, and wens. She has alfo a fpeedy and never-failirig cute fot the Venereal difeafe, and cures it though of ever fo long a Continuance, in a very fhort time. She has alfo a famous medi- tine for the tonth-ach, which cures all diforders in the mouth and guins, and in a few times ufing will he fcnfibly perceived ; and with a little continuance will perfeaiy core the fcurvy in the gums, and take off all difagreeable fmell from the brcathj'Sha .llfo prepares the true Scots pills, and difpofes of them, wholefalfi or retail, at a rea fonable price. She has alfo a famous medicine for deftroying worms in young or old, and cures other many grievous diforders, too tedious here to enumerate ; ha ving had great praaice, attended with great fuccefs in many defperate cafes ; taking hone in hand but whom fhe can perfectly cure. — Pray apply foon, that I may have time to prepare for the operation, juid fee the cure performed. N". K Yon may have any of the above medicines when the bill is called for.—" Pray keep it clean. — Advice givtn lo the poor Gravis, by* OOOTRESS WOOD, Reduced copy of Handbill. until he left Kendal, were too healthy to told in the following story, which ap peared in the Cum berland Pacquet for September 6th, 1785 : — " An emi nent physician in the neighbourhood of Keswick once paid a visit to a foreign physician * then residing in Kendal. In the course of conversa tion, Ainslie, for it was he, was asked how he liked his situation, to which he replied that, * as a gentleman, I am very well suited. It is a social, cheer ful neighbourhood, the country is not deficient in natural beauties, there are fish in its waters and game on its plains ; but, as a physician, it ap pears to me no ways alluring. The * Everyone whose grandfather was not born in Kendal is considered a foreigner, uitlander, or off-comer, ' nobbut a stranger ' even to this day. Such is the inherent conservative nature of a dalesman. SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. i49 natives have got the art of prolonging life without the aid of botusstusses or electuaries. By a plaster taken inwardly called thick poddish, they preserve themselves from the various diseases which shake the human fabric, and slide into the grave by the gradual decays of nature.' " Nevertheless, it would seem that after Dr. Ainslie's time — i.e., about 1790 — a certain Doctress Wood did not possess such a faith in our porridge, for she came down from London to settle amongst us as a most marvellous practitioner in physic and midwifery. I have before me her handbill, sur mounted with a gorgeous display of King George's arms, which I here illustrate. ...»»» The house next but one to the north corner of Captain French No. 130. v Lane is built upon the site of an old inn, which stood 150 years ago, known as the " Bear and Ragged Staff," with stables and brewhouses behind, where Messrs. Hayes and Parkinson's workshops now are. This, at one time popular sign is the crest of the Warwick family, and originated in King Arthur's reign, when Arthgal, first Earl of Warwick, was called by the ancient British " The Bear," for having strangled such an animal in his arms ; and Morvidius, another ancestor, slew a giant with a club made out of a young tree, hence the family bore the name " Bear and Ragged Staff." Thus in Shakespeare's play of " Henry VI. " Warwick says : — " Now, by my father's badge, old Nevil's crest, The rampant bear chained to the ragged staff, This day I'll wear aloft my burgonet." In Speed's plan of 1614 this lane is called Rotten Captain French Lane „ _ _ , , . Row, or Routine Row, so named because the procession of " The Host " was taken by that route in burials from Soutergate to the old cemetery at Kirkbarrow. Subsequently it took its present name from a Captain John French who lived here, and was churchwarden in 1660, and who, perhaps, rebuilt most of the houses in the lane. Up this lane is the " Rock Tavern," which has an oak dado made out of the Parish Church bench ends. Before this house became a tavern it was occupied by " Aggie Pepper " and her brother, whose employment seems to have consisted in manufacturing i5o KIRKBIE KENDALL. a strong kind of linen thread, commonly called " Noggey wife," an excellent production, which supplied most of the looms in the neighbourhood. After this it became the woollen and cloth manufactory of Caleb Metcalfe and Sons, a business which rapidly spread out into large warehouses in the centre of the town, dyehouses by the riverside above Stramongate Bridge, and spinning mills at the Low Mills and Old Hutton. In Edward Whitehead's will, dated 23rd July, 1732, he bequeaths " my burgage house, messuage, or tenement formerly called and known by the name of Captain French House, and now by the name ofthe " Golden Lion," standing and being in Highgate," but whether this was the same inn as the " Rock Tavern " I cannot determine. This stream was first known as Well Syke and then as Buttery Well. „ Buttery Well. The two houses at the south corner of the lane were Nos. 134 and 136. built by John Davidson of Hill Top on the site of some old weaving shops. He bought the property in 1797 from Archibald Elliot, of the " High Front," in Kirkland. He married the sister of Mrs. Masterson, who kept the " King's Arms " hotel for many years. This new street was opened out in the year 1888, and displaced Gillingate. F , ' r , , some interesting property. One was a large house occupied by Thomas Brocklebank and his sister, which had previously been the " White Swan Inn," an appropriate sign, as Mr. John Watson happily remarks, expressive in the thought of how fond this bird is of liquid and how" all her food is procured from it. Another house was occupied by Edward Metcalfe and Archibald Elliot. The house recently vacated by Dr. Illiffe was formerly the town residence or dower house of the Leyburnes of Cunswick Hall, probably after the old Abbot Hall had become uninhabitable. It seems that many of the neighbouring gentry required such a town house to which they could remove when the wintry roads became irksome for frequent communication with the town, or to which, when a son inherited a country seat, the widow could retire. James Wilson, attorney, subsequently resided here, and after him his daughter, Miss Maria Wilson, who, loving and beloved, full of years and great goodness, SOUTERGATE— THE WEST SIDE. iSl gently passed away in December, 1863, aged 91. The Kendal Chronicle for April 4th, 1818, reports that "The Quarter Sessions for the Burgh of Kirkby-in-Kendal were held on the 2nd instant, at the house of James Wilson, Esq., Deputy Recorder. There was no business of importance." Or was it hurried through in order not to interfere too much with the host's hopitality ! There are several anecdotes of an eccentric nature extant concerning "Turney Jimmy," as the wealthy solicitor was popularly called, especially relating to his strong Tory principles, which led him to glorify his party and amuse the Liberal Blues by promenading every fine afternoon up and down in front of his house dressed in a bright yellow dressing gown, and further adorned with slippers and cap to match. His stately funeral is rendered historical as being, I believe, the last occasion upon which door mutes were employed in Kendal, for, during the days that the body lay within, two such stood upon the pavement, one on each side of the doorway, in black robes and crape hanging from their hats and staves, as motionless and silent as statues. An emblem of grief indeed, but, thank heaven, a custom now gone for ever ; forerunning that happier day when all such pagan thoughts and senseless pharasaical mourning will be laid aside. Over the doorway is a splendid specimen of a carved fanshell hood, probably of oak, but it is now, and has been for many decades, covered with increasing coats or paint. Oh that the landlord would realise the elegance of its beauty, and, by removing the paint, disclose to view the handiwork of some painstaking artist. _ _ Adjoining is a substantially built house, facing north, Blindbeck House. . , . , , , , , , , ', . with its back to the beck, erected by Christopher Wilson, hosier, and bearing upon a spout head the initials ~ V, Here the late Roger Moser resided, with the offices of Messrs. Moser, Son, and Arnold up the yard. IV. " Far from God, but near His Temple." " Wherever God erects a house of prayer, The devil is sure to build a chapel there." 155 KIRKLAND. CROSSING Blindbeck, we leave the old Borough of Kendal and enter into Kirkland, which, being out of the Mayor's liberty, was much resorted to by the poorer tradesmen, not free of the Corporation, because they could not afford to pay the necessary £10 for the privilege of setting up business in the Burgh. The Hon. Fulke Greville Howard, as Lord of the Manor of Kirkland (being part of the Lumley Fee) held a Customary Court twice in each year. Blindbeck Dr" Burn descrirjes tne origin of this little brook as one which, having but a small current and, as it were, seeking for a passage, is called " Blind." Cornelius Nicholson prefers to derive its name from the obscurity of its source, its feeders being lost in the fissures of the limestone rocks of Gilling Grove, "unless it be derived," he says, "from the British word Blaen," signifying a point or extremity — i.e., " the town-end beck." At one time — see Todd's plan — the beck flowed openly across the road, with but a narrow bridge wide enough for one cart to pass over, and with a parapet wall on either side only about a foot high. The bridge was rebuilt and widened to the full width of the road in 1823. The first house in Kirkland on the east side was where Matthew Case lived with his protegy — poor " Lord Harrowby." Harrowby was always dressed in spotless attire, hence his title ; and spent his time either in flicking off the dust from his black cloth suit and hat, or in rushing up and down the pavement in front of his house in pursuit of some imaginary foe, returning with the full pride of a conquering hero. „ _ Two doors lower down, to the south of the yard still called by the Mo. 5. name, was the " Old Ship " standing recessed back, bearing the sign of a ship with full sails set. It seems difficult to account for this name, which is more commonly met with on a quay side ; and one can only imagine some 156 KIRKBIE KENDALL. seafaring captain settling down here with hard-earned savings — probably from the neighbouring port at Milnthorpe — and setting up "just one more house " for the thirsty souls of Kirkland. Unfortunately, there is no date attached to a will in which Abraham Garnett, of Beethwaite Green, devises to his son William, of Kendal, "all that messuage and tenement situated in Kirkland, and known by the name of the * Old Ship Inn.' " The questionable glory of this last-named inn departed when the " Black Bull " opposition house — kept at different times by Kit Ion, Ben Hurd, and old Adamson — was ¦f^mjgL opened immediately across the way, with its pictorial sign of a life-sized head and neck of the ferocious animal. The old in convenient premises could not compete IS 'SI RRSllEfWl ^ N*r4< with the more respec -1— rH-1 r^iHIISi-1^-- Kirnund table-looking build ing which had risen up against it, and thus the " Old Ship " fell to pieces, and in its place " Betty Shaver," the female barber of Kirkland, set up her business. Using the vaulted cellar at the back of the shop as a warehouse for coal, she retailed out to her neighbours baskets full of this commodity, and cleansed her hands upon the lathered features of her " next-turn " chin. No. The triumph of the " Black Bull," however, was not of long duration, for next door to Betty Shaver's establishment was soon opened another estaminet, and apparently a popular one in that day, which sported upon its sign the hand and arm of a man holding a bird, whilst opposite was a bush containing two other birds, with the couplet beneath :— " One bird in hand is better far, Than two that in the bushes are." KIRKLAND. 157 On William Braithwaite leaving the " Ring o' Bells " for this house, the name was changed to that of the " Royal Oak," and when Joseph Steele bought the property the license was taken away. For some years after it was known as " The Home," by reason of the late Mrs. W. D. Crewdson partly supporting and allowing to live rent free several aged females here. Capper Lane. Capper, Cappel, or Chapel Lane is one of the oldest bye- ways of Kendal. Record seems to point to all the cottages as having been at first thatched, two of which, covered with four feet of straw, probably the accumulation of some 150 years, were still existing in the year 1815. Two others were also standing at this time, one in Wildman Street and the other on Far Cross Bank. In the early church registers the name of Thomas Capper, of Kirkland, frequently appears, and it is very pro bable that he either built or purchased the property, and thereby gave to it its name. The spacious building within iron gates, still standing on the south side of Capper in a field called " Bogey Field" — so .called from a favourite horse named "Bogey Rattler" — used formerly to be a foundry kept by Miss "Polly" Cornlhwaite, of Collin Croft. There were formerly two or three public-houses up the Lane, such as the " Fat Lamb," the " Rule and Square," and the " Blue Anchor" (1732); whilst another, standing in 1763, was called the " Boot and Shoe," with a sign representing an old cobbler stooping for his last with many waxed ends hanging down, under which were the following lines : — forth m Cross Lone ; I'm stooping for my last, And looking for my end ; He that spends a penny wi' me, I'll take him for my friend." KIRKBIE KENDALL. Kirkbarroi*/ Square I illustrate here and on the previous page two curious bits of cottage architecture, one at the gable end of Cross Lane and the other imme diately behind. At the head of the Lane near to the Well Sike stood a chapel, how dedicated or by whom founded cannot be ascer tained. The Little Roods, evidently so called from a cross standing there, is re puted to have been a burial ground to the chapel ; and, when making the foundation for a house built by John Swainson at the corner of it, a quantity of human bones forming an entire skeleton were dug up. Anchorite House and Well. Speed, in his map of 1614, engraves the name as " The Ankeriche," which seems to have been a walled inclosure with rows of trees, and the Parish Clerk in his burial registers variously spells the name thus : — 1770, Richard, son of John and Ruth Nelson of the Anchorage. 1771, Edward, son of John and Ruth Nelson of Anchoress. 1772, Ruth, daughter of John and Ruth Nelson ofthe Anchor House. 1805, the wife of John Nelson of Anchor Hous. I833, James Birkett, spinner, Anchorite House. Ages have passed away since the death of the recluse, whose abode by the well side first gave a distinctive name to this placid pool ; yet the spring still bubbles up, fresh and pure as when its waters were deemed holy, and pilgrims came hither to drink to be cleansed from their sin. KIRKLAND. 1$ Spencer's beautiful poem of a " Hermitage " is truly descriptive of this place ; — ¦ " A little, lowly hermitage it was, Down in a dale; .... a little wide There was a holy chapel edified, Wherein the Hermit dewly went to say His holy things each morn and eventide; Thereby a crystall streame did gently play, Which from a sacred fountaine welled forth alway." There is a pleasant legend about this place well worth repeating here. It was towards the end of the reign of King Edward III. that an Anchorite appeared in Kendal in the habit of a palmer, with the crossed staff, the robe, and the broad flat hat decorated with a cockle shell upon his tanned and withered forehead, which denoted that he had been in the Holy Land. Nobody enquired who or what the pilgrim was, for the class were as common as commercial travellers are to-day ; but, although he lived on the humblest fare, he bestowed much money in alms on the lepers and licensed beggars who infested the highways, sat before the cross houses, or hung around the church doorways. After a time he busied himself in collecting stones from the fellside, and having purchased a small piece of land from the Abbey of St. Mary's at York, he constructed for himself a hovel, furnished with the rudest and simplest materials, and took up his abode by this spring. But gossip and curiosity soon began to be aroused concerning the stranger, who had laid aside his staff and changed his pilgrim's weeds to assume a coarse white cassock of Kendal cloth, and who was always busy cultivating the ground attached to his cell by the well side. The anchorite was deemed a holy man, and the spring became the resort of the afflicted, who fondly thought that its pure waters and the prayers ofthe hermit, versed in the healing arts ofthe East, were capable of performing miracles. At last he fell sick unto death, and confessed to Father Ralf the story of his only love. Long years gone by, his Blanche was all to him, smiling upon and sharing his every dream of happiness, embroidered his scarf, and wrought the blazon of his knightly pennon when he won his spurs by capturing a Scottish chief. They never spoke of love ; theirs was no lip worship. The two souls intermingled, as it were, by instinct, and both were blessed ; until one day, whilst staying at Kendal Castle, an usurping brother's love marred all. His Blanche was lost to him, fear succeeded to frenzy, and jfo KIRKBIE KENDALL. that same night he concealed their bodies beside this well. Selling his patri mony he assumed the cross, hoping to lose his burden by warfare against the infidels ; but on his return he was again attracted hither, and built his hermitage over the relics of his only love. So did Father Ralf confess him, and by means of the hoard he left behind, masses for the soul of Julien de Clifford continued to be said in Kendal Church till the period of the reformation. Tradition says that the bee-hive hut was built in the year 1176, and that the narrow road which led up to it made two spiral circles around it, the fences of which concealed the dwelling from the gaze of passers-by. The present house was built in 1771 by Alderman John Shaw, who let it to various tenants ; W. Carradus, a soldier in the 79th Highlanders at Waterloo, was born here in 1784. Shaw married Elizabeth Greenhow, and latterly it has been the property and residence of John Greenhow. Near by is a small mill, which John Eccles of Kirkbarrow House used in 1798 as a spinning mill. He was the first in this neighbourhood to spin yarn by water power, all the spinning previously having been done at the spinster's own house, the mills being only employed for the fulling of cloth and rasping of dye woods. Subsequently the mill was used by Isaac Rigge & Co., card makers in Captain French Lane, for a wire mill. It has since been used for grinding bones. The stream from this interesting Well could be more easily traced before being covered up than now, so that it is well here to record its passage. At first flowing down that part of Capper Lane called Cop Beck, along one side of Anthony Yeates' garden, and passing through his entry, it takes a sharp bend to the right, along a two-foot square culvert covered with heavy flag stones, till it reaches the spot where the old smithy stands, opposite to the Church Schools. Here it crosses the road, running along the Glebe House garden, around the corner of the porter's lodge, and down into the river. Leading from off this main waterway were two other, but artificial, branch culverts, one crossing the street in front of and down the Lane beside the " Ring o' Bells Inn," and the other, leaving it at the acute elbow, crossed into Hogg's Yard, and down into the Abbot Hall grounds. KIRKLAND. 161 In bygone times these brooks formed an important part in the street life of the day, for as they passed along Kirkland there used to be some four or five iron lids, through which the women could pass down their buckets to fill them with the pure water. Oh ! the frolic and youthful pranks that gathered around these spots, and the chattering of women as they gathered in their canfuls of necessary water. And oh ! should a lid at night time be left displaced, the danger to the unwary and the chill to the backbone when a bruised limb found itself knee deep in the cooling waters ! Nos. 15 and 16. At No. 15 there is an old black stone let in over a parlour firegrate, bearing the date 1668. No. 16 was formerly the "Woodman Inn," whose sign seems to have been one of peculiar merit, representing a venerable woodman bent with age going to labour with his axe beneath his arm and followed by his faithful dog across the snow. May Pole. Here about was the town's maypole, around which the boys and girls of Kendal have laughed and sung throughout many gladsome- days. When cutting the gas main trenches in 1825 the workmen came upon the stonework which had se cured the foot of the pole, just a little to the north of the door leading to the old " Wheat Sheaf Inn." The ancient ceremony of maying and morris- dancing was celebrated here by processions parad ing the streets immediately after sunrise, the boys with their " May gads" (willow wands twined with cowslips), and the lasses with their " brats " full of flowers, young and old singing in chorus "We have brought the summer home." 1 62 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The origin ofthe chief customs and superstitions connected with the holiday may be traced back to an annual gathering held in honour of Maia, the mother of Mercury, at Ostia, a town situated some sixteen miles from Rome. This festival in later days was incorporated with the feast of Flora, which commenced on April 27th, and lasted several days. Both men and women participated in the sports, and all who attended were decorated with garlands. Over the doors of dwellings were branches bearing fruits and flowers, and the gallants of Rome cut down young trees and brought and set them up before the houses of their mis tresses. By degrees, however, the forests became denuded of young growth, so that to prevent this destruction it was ordered that a tall shaft or pole, orna mented with gar lands, should be sub stituted, and from this practice comes our English May pole. But when the Puritan power be came dominant in 1589, the local au thorities were called upon to suppress " May-games, bull-baits, and other enormities." When James I passed through the country in 1617 he issued the famous document known as the " Book of Sports." This was re-issued, with a new preface, by Charles I. in 1633, by which His Majesty came to the assistance of his pleasure loving subjects, and declared that " after the end of divine service his good people be not disturbed, letted, or discouraged from any lawful recreations ; nor from having May-games, Whitsun-ales, and Morris-dances, and the setting up of May poles." A few years later Parliament again showed its disapproval, V- Vi KIRKLAND. 163 and* in 1644 issued an order in which it is stated " because the profanation of the Lord's day hath been heretofore greatly occasioned by May poles (a heathenish vanity, generally abused to superstition and wickedness), the Lords and Commons do further order and ordain that all and singular May poles that are or shall be erected shall be taken down and removed by the constables and churchwardens of the parishes, where the same shall be ; and that no May pole shall be here after set up, erected, or suffered to be within this kingdom of England or do minion of Wales. The said officers to be fined five shill ings weekly till the said May pole be taken down." May Pole. After the Restoration the May pole was once more raised in the land, and remained with us in Kendal until the year 1792, when it had to be removed to accommodate the vehicular traffic. The festival, however, still lingered for very many years, the young people assembling in the Vicar's fields on Easter Tuesday, and after spending the afternoon there they returned through the streets " threading grandy needles." " Come, lasses and lads, take leave of your dads, And away to the May pole hie; For every he has got him a she, And the minstrel's standing by. 164 KIRKBIE KENDALL. For Willie has gotten his Jill, And Johnny has got his Joan, To jig it, jig it, jig it, Jig it up and down. ' Strike up,' says Wat, ' Agreed,' says Kate, ' And I prithee, fiddler, play ' ; 'Content,' says Hodge, and so says Madge, For this is holiday. Then every man did put His hat o.T to his lass, And every girl did curchy, Curchy, curchy on the grass. Morris Dancers. ' Let's kiss,' says Jane, ' Content,' says Nan, And so says every she; ' How many ? ' says Batt, ' Why three,' says Matt ' For that's a maiden's fee.' But they, instead of three, Did give them half a score, And they in kindness gave 'em, gave 'em, Gave 'em as many more. ¦«5 <§H> •--- " ±>zzm> KIRKLAND, Then after an hour they went to a bower, And played for ale and cakes ; And kisses, too, — until they were due The lasses kept the stakes. The girls did then begin To quarrel with the men ; And bid 'em take their kisses back, And give them their own again. Yet there they sate, until it was late, And tired the fiddler quite, With singing and playing, without any paying, From morning unto night. They told the fiddler then, They'd pay him for his play; And each a two-pence, two-pence Gave him and went away. 'Good-night,' says Harry, 'Good-night,' says Mary, ' Good-night,' says Dolly to John : ' Good-night,' says Sue, ' Good-night,' says Hugh, ' Good-night,' says every one. Some walked and some did run, Some loitered on the way ; And bound themselves with love-knots, love-knots, To meet the next holiday." __ , __ After passing Yard No. Nos. 25 and 27. . 23, in the illustration of which will be noticed an iron bracket hook for supporting one of the ancient oil lamps, you come to an old house, on the three leaden spout heads of which are cast the arms of the Lamberts of Watch Field, viz. : — Argent, a chevron Gules between three lambs Sable, a chief cheque Azure and Argent. In the middle of last century, one William and Charlotte Lambert lived here. The late T. Bindloss, twice mayor, occupied these premises and resided over the shop, until he built his residence at Castle Green in 1848. Here, in former days, Thomas Braithwaite carried on the business of ironmonger until his death in 1822, and with him lived his sister, Margaret, " dispensing blessings unnumbered by her genuine Black Drop." Thomas' brother, John Airey Braithwaite, a surgeon at Lancaster, claimed to be the original inventor of this Westmorland and North Lancashire drug and " specific for all !66 KIRKBIE KENDALL. ills," and after his death the secret receipe and manufacture passed into his sister Margaret's hands; and after her decease it became the property of her niece, Hannah, whose will caused so much commotion. One curious circumstance attaching to this great cure-all. capable of allaying all pain and of stimulating the drooping energies, as well as the reverse process of reducing excessive activity when unduly excited, is the fact that it was manufactured solely by Quakers, whose chief characteristic is quiet placidness. Ann Todd, a Quakeress rival, residing in an old house up some steps in a yard behind the " Commercial Inn," advertised in 1811 that she "has long been in possession of the original receipe, and continues to prepare and sell ' The Genuine Quaker's Black Drop ' at Kendal at is 6d a bottle, being about one-tenth the price and superior in quality to the article advertised by a member of the Royal College of Surgeons." Poor Ann Todd died in 1820 at the age of 72 years, and in the following year another rival turns up in Hannah Backhouse — also a Quakeress— who advertises " The Original Black Drop," prepared by her from a receipe of a medical practitioner — a Friend — who resided at Bishop Auckland a hundred years ago, and which has been in the family for over 60 years. It seems to have been a very concentrated drug, one drop being equal to four of laudanum, and generally consisted of opium, 4 ounces ; juice of quinces, 4 pints, digested with gentle heat for three weeks ; then with the addition of saffron, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon (an ounce each), it was allowed to digest a week longer, be strained, and the liquor evaporated to the consistence of syrup. This simmering process must have been very uncongenial work, for the fair women had to wear masks to prevent the fumes impairing their complexion ; and, in order to preserve the secret, it had mostly to be done at nights, when servants had gone to rest and neighbours did not call to interrupt. Weird and witch-like in the gloom, these masked figures in grimy gowns flitted about and tended for four weeks their, as Macbeth hath it, slowly boiling " hell-broth " charm. No wonder, then, that the " original Original and genuine Genuine Quakeress' Drop " was sold at 10s. for a small phial of about fpur ounces, with an additional is. for duty. KIRKLAND. 167 Pembroke House A narrow entry used to exist between here and its southern neighbour, which accounts for the now blocked-up side windows on the ground floor. The central house in this charming block of three was partially rebuilt by Anthony Yeates early in the XIXth Century, and from the fact of Pembroke House having had at one time south attic windows, it would seem that the upper storey of this house, which so mars the continuity and beauty ofthe block, was added then. John Richards (afterwards Yeates) lived here when he was appointed Mayor in 1836 by the Reformed Corporation. He died at Park Head, December 23rd, 1847, aged 51, and was buried in Heversham Churchyard. There is a stained-glass window in the Kendal Church, erected by his son in 1865 to the memory of his parents. 1 68 KIRKBIE KENDALL. It is said that the iron railings in front of the house came from Dallam Tower, having been given by Mr. Wilson, at whose house Mr. Yeates was a constant visitor. No. 32. Tucked away behind the corner of the last house is to be seen " the glory of Kirkland." It is true that the place has been terribly modernised, but the old front parlour — denuded, alas ! of its ancient furniture — is little altered. And, if my strong epithet is still taken in question, I would ask the reader to seek permission and enter up the entry to behind the house, and whilst there gainsay me if they can. Through the garden and beneath the entry runs the clear brook from the Anchorite's Well. Nos. 34 and 36. A somewhat mod ern house adjoins to the south, which was built on the site of an ancient dwelling projecting out considerably further on to the road, and which is said to have been the toll-bar for collecting the manorial tolls. In to the gable of this modern building has been built in a date-stone Y I5°3. which probably came out of the earlier erection, as it seems that the family of Yeates owned this house also. On April 21st, 1772, it was ordered and agreed by a great majority of the churchwardens at their public meeting in Kendal Church that the house No. 33, Kirkland. KIRKLAND. 169 belonging to Thomas Harrison, attorney-at-law, situated at the churchyard side, be forthwith bought at the expense of the parish, and pulled down and laid to the churchyard. The following items appear in the accounts : — 1771, paid to Mr. Joseph Swainson towards the purchase of the house, £42 ; 1773, paid to Richard Wilson for lease on the house, 10s. ; paid to Joseph Swainson for lent money, £10 and 5s. interest. _ . . This ancient school was founded by Adam Penvngton, Grammar School. , _ _...,. , „T.„ , , , ot Boston, Lincolnshire, who by Will, dated 20th March, 1525, devised £xo for the term of ninety-eight years, to be paid as a stipend or wage for the finding of a priest, being an able schoolmaster, to teach a Free School in the town of Kendal, to be paid out of certain lands in the County of Lincolnshire. King Edward VI., in the year 1548, appointed some Commissioners to take order for the maintenance and continuance of the schools and other foundations, whose revenues were vested in the Crown. They "ordained that the Grammar School which long before had been kept in Kirkbie Kendall, should there be continued, assuring the master there to have for his wages, yearly, the said £10." Upon a complaint being made by the schoolmaster in 1557 that his stipend had been withheld, a decree was made by the Barons of the Exchequer that the same should be paid by the Receiver of the County of Westmorland, with all arrears. The revenue of the school was further augmented by a decree of the Court of Exchequer, made 12th of May, 1582, reciting that two several stipends of £4 12s. iod. each, hitherto paid for the maintenance of two curates now no longer needed by the Vicar, should be allowed in augmentation of the schoolmaster's wages. Miles Philipson, of Crook, by indenture dated the 26th of January, 1588, gave and granted unto James Wilson, Alderman, a parcel of ground, being part of the grounds belonging to Abbot Hall, together with one house standing on the said ground for a Free School, " for godly and virtuous education, instruction, and institution of youth of the said town and parish of Kendal, in grammar and other good learning." The school was built by public subscription, and the Boke off Recorde gives a list of donations towards the fund between the years 1582-8. Besides these, Earl Ambrose and the Countess of Warwick gave towards the building " six fair oke tymber trees," 170 KIRKBIE KENDALL. I'J'yii. / ab eb ib o^i $ I ao, f4 ii> oft «, U be b? bo lni| » £? ft K fit and the inhabitants gave balks of timber and planks ; whilst others gave by leading stones. The famous Bernard Gilpin most willingly in "godlie zeale," as he himself says, bore'his part in raising the school, as appears from the following letter, which can never be too often quoted : — " To his verie lovinge freindes in Christe, master Alderman of Kendall and his breth ren geve these in Kendall. Moste due commendacouns premised I am righte glade to heare that your godlie suite for a grammer schoole is like to come to a good ende and so soone as I shal be certified yt it is well established I shall moste willinglie per- fourme my promisse with suche spede as I may convenientlie. But I am so over charged with manye paymentes as this bearer can certifie you that I staunde nede to have a quarters warninge to provide for ary payment. And although your schoole shoulde not come to a perfectioun accordinge to your firste determinatioun yete for ye godlie zeale you all beare to learninge and for ye great charges wch I thinke you have alredye sustayned I will beare a parte with you as shal be thought convenient. And thus trustinge bothe to heare from you and to write to you againe shortlie at better Leysure I praye god pre serve you all and prosper your good and godlie worke to his honour. At Houghton this XXVIII* of June Ao. 1582. Youres alwaye in Christe to his power. Bernard Gilpin." ®t frtoVotm DW poft . sfmr jtett.])aU By George Cruikshank. i72 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Shaw, Edmund Law, D.D., Bishop of Carlisle (1702-1787) ; Peter Barwick, and in later years ofthe famous seven contemporary lads of Sampson's time, viz. : — (1) J. Hubbersty, Wrangler and Fellow of Queen's College, Cambridge. (2) Job Rawlinson, Wrangler and Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. " (3) Dr. Audland, Feliow of Queen's College, Oxon. (4) Dr. Wilson, Wrangler and Fellow of John's College, Cambridge. (5) W. A. Fletcher, Fellow of Magdalen College, Cambridge. (6j K. Thompson, of Trinity College, Cambridge. (7) Dr. Cookson, Wrangler, Fellow and Vice-Chancellor of Cambridge University. But as the scope of these pages is more with the building than with the scholars, it must suffice to record the ancient ceremony of "barring out," in which the boys used to take possession ofthe school early on the morning of breaking-up days, strongly barricade the doors from within, arm themselves with elder pop-guns, and defy admittance to the master, saying : — " Liberty, liberty, under a pin, Six weeks' holiday, or nivver come in." Many were the stratagems employed by the luckless master in order to gain possession again of his lost authority. One says he remembers the master entering by creeping down the chimney ; another tells of the boys hiding themselves in the chimney when the master did happen to force the door. If he succeeded heavy tasks were imposed, and the business of the school went on as usual ; but, if the boys triumphed, terms of capitulation were proposed, stipulating the length of the holiday and what hours and times should be allotted to study for the ensuing term. Securities seem to have been given by both sides for the due performance of these stipulations, and the paper passing to and fro beneath the door was duly signed by both master and pupils. Apparently the custom was killed at the beginning of the XVIIIth Century by a master of the name of Towers having his eye accidentally destroyed whilst contending for the mastery. One of the regulations of the school was that it should be "free to all boys resident in the parish of Kendal for classics alone, excepting a voluntary payment of a cockpenny as aforetime at Shrovetide." The Charity Com missioners reported in 1844 that " no demand is made for any payment ; but KIRKLAND. i*3 it is a general practice to make a present at entrance, and another at Shrove tide, under the name of a Cockpenny. The usual sum is a guinea, but some boys pay more and some less. Sometimes nothing is paid, but the children are none the less attended to on that account." The "Literary Rambler," who contributed a series of articles to the Kendal Chronicle in 1812, at the time when the custom of cock-fighting was still in vogue, remarks that " the boys of each school were divided into parties every Shrovetide, headed by their respective captains, whom the master chose from amongst his pupils. These juvenile competitors contended in a match at football, and fought a cock-battle — called a captain's battle — in both of which contests the youthful rivals were not more interested than their parents." The master, providing the cocks, levied this pence and thereby added con siderably to his income, as also by the sale of entrance tickets to visitors to witness the "sports." At Sedbergh Grammar School the master received on Shrove Tuesday 4^d. from each pupil, and at Grange, at the commencement of this century, the pence varied in amount according to the social standing of the parents, ranging from 2s. 6d. to £5. The cock-pit at Heversham was in existence down to recent times. But such happy days have long passed away, the school itself has migrated to new premises outside the town, and the whole building has been turned into cot tage property. The ancient porch has now become a Sunday parlour, and over it Sampson's den for study is now a place for sleep. A new scheme for the management of the school was approved in April, 1869, by which it was arranged that the head master should not necessarily be a University graduate or in holy orders ; and in 1886 the Charity Commissioners approved a further scheme by which the funds of this school were amalgamated with those of Sandes' Hospital and m KirkbIe Kendall. the Blue Coat School, and placed under one governing body called Governors ofthe United School and Hospital Foundation of Kendal." The The new school buildings were erected in 1888, capable of accommodating about 150 boys, and they were opened on the 10th day of January, 1889, by James Whitehead, Lord Mayor of London, and the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. The master's house was added in 1893 for 40 borders. Kirkland Stocks. Half way between the church gates and the " Ring o' Bells," formerly stood against the wall a pair of stocks. In the Kendal Chronicle for October 26th, 1816, there is notice of a " Nathan Sandwich, an inhabitant of Kirkland, who was confined six hours in the stocks for appearing pub licly in this borough several Sundays in a state of inebriation." When they were removed I In the Stocks, by Nrsbit. cannot say, but the seat remained for some considerable time after, indeed many old inhabitants say that they can well remember it. From a translation of a survey made in 1563, we find the Vicarage described thus: — "The Vicar of Kirkby-Kendal holds these in right of his Vicarage, the principal mansion belonging to the said Vicarage, consisting of a hall, parlour, bed-chamber, kitchen, pantry, with apartments for servants, built of stone and covered with slates, with one barn, one stable, one court, one flower garden, orchard, and kitchen garden, with a field adjoining, containing by estimation one acre, situated between the Church Yard of Kendal aforesaid on the north side and Nether Bridge on the south side, the common street called Kirk-Lane on the west side, and the River Kent on the east side." This was during the incumbency of Dr. Ambrose Hetherington (1562- 1591). Rather more than 100 years later the Glebe House appears to have Glebe House. KIRKLAND. 175 been rebuilt by Vicar Crosby (1699-1733), for we are told that " his behaviour as a good Pastor and Christian did not extend only in Spirituals, but even in many respects in Temporals, as the Vicarage is a visible instance of; which, with much labour and expense, he rebuilt from a poor mean place to what it now is, and all for the good of his successors, together with a fine library." The " Crosby Library " still exists in the house, with reference to which the following occurs in the Vicar's will : — " I give to the Vicar of the said Parish Church for the time being all my Library and all my bookes therein, he before entering upon the same giving security to the Mayor, Recorder, two senr. aldermen and Schoolmr. for ye preservation of the same and that the same shall go down to his next succr and I desire the Vicar for the time being to lend to the Curate there, such books to read as he may have occasion for, he returning the same in such reasonable time as he may have read the same over." During several years of the Rev. Thomas Murgatroyd's incumbency, as well as in Vicar Crosby's time, one Francis Gray, doctor of " physick," resided at the Vicarage. In 1700 " William Potter dyed at the Vichariege," and from 1703-1705 Thomas Shepherd, deputy recorder of the town, resided here. Directly after the induction of Dr. Symonds, circ. 1745, the barn and stable described in the above survey, and lying at the back or east side of the house, were adapted to the purpose of a kitchen and wine cellars, and above the Vicar erected his drawing-room as it now exists, only that it was lighted exclusively from the east end by the present large window, or possibly at that time by two smaller windows. The north end of the house also underwent alterations. The Rev. Henry Robinson, upon his accepting the living in 1789, enlarged the dining-room, and, with other improvements, altered the hall and staircase. About 1815, Vicar Hudson added the library on the south side of the house — -the first attempt to gain a southern aspect — the room adjoining the hall probably again became a kitchen, and the windows in this and the other wing, which had been contracted, were opened to their former size. The late Venerable Archdeacon Cooper took down the north wing about the year i860, when he built his new Vicarage in the " Vicar's Fields," the foundation stone of which was laid on March 5th, 1859. This alteration decreased the building considerably, and made it more suitable to the 176 KIRKBIE KENDALL. habitation of his curates. The rooms that were demolished were the dining- room, parlour, and servants' apartments, leaving only the hall (in which a smaller apartment or business room had been previously partitioned off), with bed-room above; the front kitchen and the pantry, with bed-room and dressing- room above ; and the back kitchen and wine cellars, with the drawing-room above and the library annexe. The last alterations (recently made in 1898) comprised the restoration of the hall to its former size by the removal of the lath and plaster partition ; second, the addition of an entrance porch ; third, the restoration of the back kitchen as the kitchen and the front kitchen as a sitting-room, together with the transformation ofthe two wine cellars (by the opening of new windows in the east wall) into a larder and pantry ; fourth, the transfer of the out offices and yard from the south to the north of the house, leaving the south free for pleasure grounds, with a garden entrance to the house at its south side. Vicar Crosby in 1700, in order to increase the revenue of his office, let off the field at the back of his house, between the Church Yard and Nether Bridge, into tan yards. The offices and sheds stood close up to the street, and extended from where the Lodge now is to near the present entrance gates to the school, and truly unsightly things they were, with their rusty and red- coloured doors, windows, and ventilating boards. The tan pits were in the rear approached through a large covered entry, a little above the present entrance to the grounds. But in 1826, Vicar Hudson, being annoyed by the disagreeable sight and evil smell of these works, set himself to gain possession and convert the place into a suitable approach to the Vicarage. And no wonder, considering that the only carriage entrance at that time was through the " Ring o' Bells " Yard, a way by no means pleasant to his many visitors. A carriage road was made, the present entrance lodge erected, and many trees and shrubs were planted. About this time also a "colony of rooks," we are told, " established themselves in the lofty and venerable lime trees on Ihe west side ofthe mansion." Ring o' Bells Inn Thomas Barker> the church sexton, was a favourite with the churchwardens in the year 1741, and he built for them this inn as a snug retreat, wherein they could sit beside a good fire of peats and wood and have somewhat to drink at the parish charges. A con- KIRKLAND. 177 venierit door was made to open into the churchyard through which his friends could easily pass after viewing the needful repairs to the sacred edifice or after auditing the accounts. It would seem that the building was erected on consecrated ground, but under the circumstances that did not become a very great obstacle. No doubt, to all parties concerned, it was a most convenient house and lucrative as well, especially on " peremptory days," better known as "parish pudding days," when us. was the customary parish expense to be spent on drink — a sum which was afterwards increased to 33s. In 1789 John Fisher, a Roman Catholic, succeeded Barker, and christened the inn by the name of the " Ring o' Bells." He died in 1814, and was followed by John Reade, of Heversham, who caused the pictorial sign representing the church clock tower and the bellringers in white stockings and knickerbockers busily engaged in ringing with a jug of foaming ale beside them, to be painted by Jack Fothergill, a man of considerable merit in sign painting. But in 1830 Reade left Kendal, and at the auction of his effects the sign was sold to Obadiah Burrow, ofthe "Eagle and Child," Heversham, and ultimately found its way to Heversham Hall. It was here that our local antiquary, Thomas Jennings, discovered it in 1862, used as a screen to prevent draughts from coming down a disused chimney ; and, to his honour be it recorded, that he at once purchased the interesting relic and brought it back to Kendal to restore it to its original position. During the visit of the rebels to the town in November, 1715, some of the soldiers came down to Tom Barker's (he being the sexton) to make arrange ments for the Sunday services, especially for the bellringing, and to enquire for " Watty Burn," the player of the " muckle pipes." Several of the ringers happened to be present at the time, and among them was John Wilson, who loudly protested that he would not ring for such a beggarly crew. Upon this tbe soldiers drew their swords, and poor " Slape " would have slipped into another world in honour of Bonnie Prince Charlie, had it not been for Tom Barker who whispered to them — " O, gentlemen, nivver mind him ; hees net a' thear, an' we nivver taick onny notice o' him," whereupon the generous Highlanders sheathed their swords, and ended the matter in glasses all round and a few drams of snuff. This block of hewn limestone buildings was erected by a Nos. 41 to 47. ,.<-,, ~ T l u very thrifty shopkeeper — Betty Scott. In the centre house 178 KIRKBIE KENDALL. lived Thomas Scott, a celebrated bellringer in connection with our church, and in the ringing loft it is recorded that he now and then was the composer as well as the conductor of the peal. His son George was a remarkable young man, who gathered together a considerable library, which was disposed of after his father's death in 1849. Some of the early files ofthe Kendal Chronicle now in the Free Library bear his name. At the foot of Kirkbarrow Lane is the " Wheat Sheaf," Wheat Sheaf Inn. , . , ,., , „ ._ _, ,„ a sign which was at one time, like the (Jat Sheat, commonly used by bakers. The house was advertised to be let in 1843 when John Redhead left it, and for sale when George Walker was tenant in July, 1854. Opposite was the " Pack Horse," which has now disappeared. Kirkland here about, rendered famous by the exploits of Poor Barnabee, contained in his time two centuries ago, some score of public houses, and for the quality of good ale it had earned renown. " What toper does not know thy name ? What clime resounds not with thy Came ? South or North Pole, 'tis ail the same, Thou cans't not fail — All join in chorus to proclaim Brave Kendal ale ! Such ale-houses had commonly a pole or stake projecting from the front ofthe house, to which a garland or bush was attached. This was known as the ale-stake. But beside these, the more progressive houses hung out pictorial signs by which the house was named. Gay says that they formed also an indicator of the weather — " For when the swinging signs your ears offend With creaking noise, the rainy floods impend." The general aspect of the narrow street with these signs hung across the way must truly have been somewhat quaint and picturesque, but I can well imagine a certain sense of danger connected with them to the pedestrian passing along beneath. In these smaller houses outside the jurisdiction of the ancient borough limits, the iron fastenings may not have been altogether of the firmest description. However, this much is certain, that for one reason or KIRKLAND. 179 another, the Court of Kendal ordered in the year 1778 all signs projecting from the buildings to be taken down. (Vide Cumberland Pacquet for December 15th, 1778.) Richard Brathwait was born about 1588, flourished from 1611 to 1665, and died March 4th, 1673. A portrait of Richard Brathwait is at Dodding Green parsonage. Morris Dancers before an Inn, showing the Ale-stake. His great grandfather, Richard, lived at and was owner of Ambleside. He married Anne, daughter of William Sandys, of East Thwaites and had issue one son, Robert, who possessed Burneshead (Burneside) and married Alice Williamson. They had issue Anne Bradley, Thomas, Elizabeth Benson, Isabel Briggs, and Gawen. Thomas; the elder son, at his father's death, possessed Burnshead and was afterwards knighted. He married Dorothy, daughter of Robert Bindloss, and had issue Lady Agnes Lamplew, Sir Thomas who married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Dalston, the author Richard, and four other daughters. i8o KIRKBIE KENDALL. After leaving school, our Richard, the author, was sent to the University and became a commoner of Oriel College in 1604 at the age of 16. From his profession of law and the Inns of Court, he appears to have adventured awhile among the merchants, and finally on the death of his father to have left court and city to turn honest countryman. A well read scholar, loving horses, journeying occasionally and — perhaps for courtesy — -a spendthrift. In younger days better known as " Dapper Dick " or " Drunken Barnaby," he only too fully realized with his natural weakness the enticements of this old bit of Kirkland, for we find him saying at the return of one of his excursions : — "Thence to Kirkland, thence to Kendal, I did that which men call spend-all ; Night and day with Sociates many Drank I ale both thick and clammy. Shroud thy head, Boy, stretch thy hand too ; Hand has done what head can't stand to." He first married, in 1617, Frances, daughter of James Lawson, and had issue nine children. After remaining a widower for six years, in 1639 ne married his second wife Mary Crofts, and had issue the gallant Sir Strafford Brathwait. Some time after this second marriage he quitted Burneshead, probably to occupy the Manor House at Catterick, where he died, and being a stout Royalist under the reigns of James I. and Charles I. his lavish expendi ture in the cause ruined his fortunes. " My ruined fortunes, I shall nere bemone Though I have felt as much as any one Of the delinquent's whip : I'm still the man I was before the Civill warrs began." He was a moral writer and satirical poet of pre-eminence. The pranks of his youth were afterwards bitter reflections to him, as for instance the waste of the Sabbath days he spent at a wake, Morrice dance, or alehouse sociable he eloquently laments in his " Penitent Pilgrim " and leaves behind him the following lines as his bequest to us : — "Within that native place where I was born It lies in you deere townesmen to reforme." And concerning tobacco smoking he leaves the following : — kirkland. i8i " In great men's kitchens where I suppose Lesse smoake comes from their chimneys than their nose Thus have I proved tobacco good or ill, Good, if rare taken ; bad, if taken still." Then again in the 4th part of Barnabee's Journall he says : — ¦ " Now to Kirkland, truly by it May that say be verified, ' Far from God, but neare the Temple ' Though their Pastor give exemple They are such a kind of vermin, Pipe they'd rather heare than sermon." Now all these early frolics of Barnabee are very bad and mad and sad, and for the present generation it is very fortunate that most of the old inns have gone and are forgotten, whilst some still exist in name only, such as the " Lamb and Flag," now converted into a couple of private houses, the " Queen's Head," the " Bear," and the " Black Cock," at which latter place Mr. J. Lowther in 1763 wished to " offer Mr. Robinson to your favour." The " Hammer-in-Hand " had over its door the couplet : — " By Hammer-in-Hand All hearts do stand." On the west side was the " Dog and Badger," evidently referring to the common practice then of badger baiting, and we doubt not that this inn was the scene of many of these brutal sports, especially as we read that the landlord was a " famous sportsman ! " Nearly opposite on the east side was the " Hammer and Pincers," a beerhouse that displayed its sign to entrap the smiths, joiners, nail makers and other artizans in contradistinction to the nobility across the way. A few doors further to the south and on the same side was the " Ewe and Lamb," being a common inn sign throughout the country, representing a lamb sucking. Would this sign be hung out to allure the more sheepish ones, those who were afraid of the sporting tipster and too proud to associate with the mechanics, that they might enter and suck too. Mr. John Watson tells us that Larwood and Hollen give the following lines as having been written on a window pane by a traveller who was staying at the sign of the " Ewe and Lamb " at Worcester. In this instance the lamb was not sucking : — 18a KIRKBIE KENDALL. " If the people suck your ale no more Than the poor lamb th' ewe at the door, You in some other place may dwell, Or hang yourself for all you'll sell." A few yards further south, but on the west side, was the " Rising Sun," one ofthe badges of Edward III. and which displayed for its sign, Sol rising from behind what were supposed to be clouds and doubtless intended to spread its benign influence over all who entered, be it day or night, wet or fine. But it would seem that these houses of entertainment were not to No. 53. pass entirely without a temperance rival, for right here in the very midst of them, and, although it is almost incredible to believe, there is a veritable farm yard for milking-cows. I wonder how many of the residents of Kendal know that here in Kirkland — Kirkland, of all places — it is possible to turn aside and obtain a glass of fresh warm milk ! But so it is. In this house Isaac Wilson, who was Mayor in 1831-2, was born im o. fty* in 1788. He was educated at Sandes Hospital and eventually became a thriving solicitor, and took into partnership Thomas Harrison, who was afterwards appointed Town Clerk. Running steeply down by the side, there still remains an old dyehouse, at one time used by Martin Park, a silk dyer. The house and malt kiln adjoining was once occupied by a Mr. Hading, and his granary still projects out a little on to the road — sufficient to form a corner — where a seat used to be, wide enough to seat three people, over which there was the luxury of a pent roof to protect the sitters from inclement rains. __. , , The narrow gap which leads up to the old cemetery at Kirk- barrow and on to the Vicar's fields would exist, no doubt, at the time when the Parish Church belonged to the Roman Catholic faith. A convenient passage for the inhabitants of Underbarrow and Bradley Field, aye ! and for those in Helsington coming to mass at the mother church. Kirkbarrow House appears to be an ancient dwelling, but concerning its history I can find but little information. Here resided John Broadbent, who had the whole row of houses in Cock-beck for his woollen manufactory. He died in 1792, and was succeeded by John Eccles. In 1832, Cornelius Nicholson resided and compiled his Annals of Kendal from this house. KIRKLAND. 183 Nos. 52 and 54. year son being the architect. and from either side the two front doors give entrance to the dwellings. In the first house (No. 52) the Rev. Joseph Irving, M.A., a curate at the church, lived for some time; but, after the death of James Pennington in 1845, his widow and family came here to reside. Subsequently the property was sold to John Parkin, who lived here till he bought Tobias Atkin- son's house, and latterly it has been occupied by our worthy parish clerk, George Rushforth. At No. 54, Betsy Dennison, fourth daughter of Alder man Robert Harri son, died in 1854, aged 83; and, since her some time. very good hewn limestone building was erected in the 1837 by James Pennington, a solicitor, John Richard- Within the wide arched entry is a handsome court, time, the gifted Miss Jane Cowherd lived here for But, historically, the chief interest about this place is that the present building stands upon the site of some very old property, where Peter 184 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Whitehead and Robert Wharton once lived. It was this Whitehead who, by will dated 3rd October, 1712, gave a burgage house in Kendal, this house in Kirkland, and a bit of land called Little Roods in Kirkland to his sister for life. After her death he gave this house to Bryan Lancaster, Elizabeth Walker, Thomas Crosby, and Robert Wharton in trust to sell the same, and out of the proceeds he gave £45 to be laid out at five per cent. Out of the interest, the trustees were to take 20s. annually wherewith to buy cloth or kersey for coats for three poor men inhabitants of Kirkland, which coats should have the initials " P. W." in red cloth upon the left arm ; to distribute the further sum of 20s. amongst the poor inhabitants, and especially to the ancient, the lame, and blind, widows, and orphans, in sums not less than is. nor exceeding is. 6d. ; and the remaining 5s. to be divided amongst the trustees. In 1752, coats ceased to be given away on account of the objection to wearing the letters on the arm, and instead 7s. is given to each of the three poor persons towards furnishing a coat. Robert Wharton was a postmaster, who had his office near the church ; but he is most justly famed for being the chronicler of Remarkable Events. When few could write excepting the parson, the teacher, or the postmaster, this duty was expected of him, and right well has he fulfilled it. His chronicle was printed by one Roger Adams, of Manchester, in the month of November, 1724, a pretty good proof that there was no printing press in Kendal in those days. The sheet measures 22 inches wide by 17J inches long, and was published on two kinds of paper, the best being sold at 6d. and the other at 4d. A number ofthe Newcastle Courant for 1721 informs us that Warton was their correspondent at Kendal, and that he sold the paper at his office. As Kendal had at this early period no paper of its own, the Courant served as the principal advertising medium for this district, and contained most of the local news. The Newcastle Journal for April 14th, 1744, contains this advertise ment : — " Sold by Robert Wharton, and no other person in Kendal, Dr. Bateman's Pectoral Drops." In the Museum is an old Bible belonging to the Wharton family, in which the following interesting entry occurs :— " My dear father Robert Wharton departed this life at his own hous in Kirkland ye 21st of Jenry Ano 1745 In the 65th year of his Age, it being about the time of the Rebellion." He was interred in the Friends' Burial Ground, KIRKLAND. 185 _ _ , „ , . Mr. Frank Wilson in his interesting account of the Grey Coat School. b " Rise and Progress of Sunday Schools in Kendal," tells us of an early School Union, the needful funds of which were raised by a general subscription among all classes and denominations. Rooms were rented in various parts of the town, e.g. in Finkle Street, on the site where the Science and Art Schools now stand (discontinued in 1844), near the bottom of New Bank Yard, behind the Old Maids Hospital (removed in 1833 to Captain French Lane), and on the premises where the "Shakespeare Inn" now is; there were also three in Stricklandgate, one somewhere down the White Horse Yard, another in "The Fold" (the old timber building recently demolished), and the third in the Wool Pack Yard (afterwards removed to the New Inn Yard. In these rooms reading and writing were taught. "The masters received 2s. each Sunday and 6d. extra when there was a fire. The superintendents were appointed monthly from amongst the subscribers. Each scholar had to learn the Catechism and to attend Divine Service in the Parish Church in the morning and afternoon. At one time as many as 800 children were in attendance at these schools, and every boy who attended regularly both "morning and afternoon for the 52 Sundays of the year, received a grey swallow-tail coat, a circumstance which gave to the institution the name of ' The Grey Coat School.' This coat, however, became in time so peculiar that it was judiciously changed in after years for a fustian jacket. The girls probably received grey frocks on the same terms." Some of the schools in this Union existed as early as 1785, i.e. some five years only after the introduction of Raikes' system. The oldest collecting book now known is for Stricklandgate and dates back to 1804, the oldest roll- book extant is dated January, 1817, which is for fhe Finkle Street School, of which James O'Neil was master, and the oldest minute book dates back to April, 1830. On the 30th of June, 1845, the two remaining boys' schools were concentrated into Jennings' Yard and the New Inn Yard Schools. „ William Sleddall, by will dated nth of August, 1801, Green Coat School. , r, , _, . gave to the two Senior Aldermen and Burgesses ot KendaL £525 upon trust that they and their successors should purchase four per cent. Bank Annuities and apply the interest in establishing and for ever supporting a Sunday School, for the instruction of thirty-five boys and twelve girls} the children of the poor people of Kirkby Kendal; and for finding and 1 86 KIRKBIE KENDALL. providing a new green coat for each of the boys every year, and new hats once in two years ; also for each of the girls a green gown every year and green bonnets once in two years. Also that the Trustees should yearly treat them selves out of the dividends when they settled their accounts, with a crown bowl of punch ! No dissenter from the Church of England was to be allowed to partake of the punch or become one of the Trustees. In 1843 the Trustees found the management of the school so exceedingly defective that they determined upon removing the children from the old school in Finkle Street to the schools connected with St. Thomas' Church. It would seem, however, that by reason of the boys' great misbehaviour, the church was not so well pleased with the scheme, so that very soon afterwards the Green Coat School was once again removed and became amalgamated with the Grey Coat School in Jennings' Yard. Ch h S Vi 1 ^n tne year ^^ tne °^ Jennings' Yard school was transferred to the Parish Church, and placed under Government inspection. The present premises were built in the vicarage grounds at a cost of £1200 raised by voluntary subscriptions, and were opened on April 27th, 1861, as a Sunday School, and on the next day as an Infant Day School. The Kirkland Girl's Sunday School originated in a small gathering of girls collected by the elder Miss Cowherd in one of her cottages in the year 1832, subsequently moving to a room in the " Ring o' Bell's Inn " Yard. It was again transferred to a building erected for it on ground belonging to the Abbot Hall estate, and from this building it moved to the old Grammar School, where it remained until these new school premises were ready to receive them. Pillar Pump °n the 24th May' l861' this cast-iron pillar pump was erected to supercede the iron trap-doors in the pavement already referred to. The cost was defrayed partly by the Board of Health and partly by public subscription. No. 90 Kirkland is tne only Place in the town that retains to this day on the road side the useful smithy. For in the days of pack-horses, and later in the coaching days, the glowing fire and the musical anvil of the smithy was a very common and happy sight to the traveller. Old Bob KIRKLAND. 187 Graham, or " Bob Grime," swung his brawny arms here in the XVIIIth century, and within living memory his grandson, Joseph Graham, handed the work on to his successors. No. 100. Here is, or at least has been until re cently, an old bake shop. In the days of the notorious Nell Ray it did a thriving business, although Nell had the name of being not too honest — lifting the crust, and taking out a portion of her neigh bour's pie. High Front. High Front is so named by reason of the roadway at this point being lowered to give an easier gra dient over Nether SEp^^s?** Bridge, and which resulted in the footpath being left up some three feet above the surface, necessitating a little flight of steps between the two in the centre of the row. The path was protected for some 50 or 60 yards by a breast wall standing some three feet or more above the walk, and double that height above the road, which gave to the houses the appearance of a high front from off the road, This difference in the two levels was done away with in 1853, by lowering the path, at the time when Job Bintley, the Borough Surveyor, built the house with the bow window for his own residence Some papers preserved at Levens Hall prove that at one time trees stood in front of this parapet. Only think of it ! and of what Kirkland misses to-day by their disappearance. r88 KIRKBIE KENDALL. We next come to the " Cock and Dolphin," being Cock and Dolphin Inn. the last house of entertainment on leaving tne town, since the "Cross Keys" and "Hie Coomber" have retired from the scene. The chanticleer, with his formidable array of teeth, has proudly stood on the back of the sea-green dolphin at Nether Bridge for over two hundred years. Mr. John Watson thinks this sign to be a very rare one and questions whether any other now exists, although one of the carriers' inns in London was so named in 1681. Hollen, in his work on Inn Signs, refers to the " Cock and Dolphin" once in London and to this one in Kendal. He attributes the sign to the dolphin on the armorial shield of the Dauphin of France and to the cock, connecting both with the heraldry of the French Royal Family. *~~ , .__ Engraved over the brass knocker of the next house, which 122 and 124. & ........ projects forward in a line with this last inn, was for many years the name of the Rev. D. Jones. He was a straightforward, sincere speaker, and when minister at the New Street Chapel from 1826 to 1861, report has it that the chapel was crowded morning and evening alike. Indeed, so great was the anxiety of Ihe people to get seats, that for some time before the doors were opened, numbers gathered together to await on the door-step. The congregation overflowed into the schoolroom, and slits were made in the dividing wall so that they also could hear his excellent discourse. And what was it that drew together this anxious audience ? We are told that he was a man full of the Spirit of God, and that he simply spoke to the people of the things that had animated his spirit during the previous week. No academical sermon, but the living message of his Master — such as the Christian Church yearns for at the present time. V rl i^a " PurnP Yard" is so named on account ofthe first pump in the town being erected here about the year 1750. In 1764, at a court ofthe Mayor and Aldermen, it was " agreed and ordered that Alderman Francis Drinkel shall have paid him the sum of Forty Pounds out of the Public Stock or Revenue of the Corporation to reimburse him the money by him expended in making and putting down the Wells and Pumps in Highgate within this Burgh. The same to be paid him by the Chamberlains of the Corporation for the time being in manner following, to wit — Twenty Pounds part thereof at the end of six months and the remaining Twenty Pounds at the KIRKLAND. 189 end of twelve months from the day of the date of this Court or Assembly. By order, Birkhead, Town Clerk." . Poor House Lane. This lane, leading to the " Vicar's Fields," has been widened and built upon on the north side. The old Kirkland Workhouse at the head of the lane is still standing, and occupied as a private cottage. It was established in the year 1809, the paupers being boarded out by contract at so much per head. Poor Oliver Twist ! No. 140. " To be Sold, a very good Burgage house, Stable, Cow House, Tan-yard, Bark Mill and Garden late belonging to Stanley Brockbank and situate in Kirkland, near Kendal, particulars may be had of Mr. Charles Shepherd." This tan-yard was on the south of Poor House Lane, where there is now an extensive garden and summer house. Charles Shepherd, a tanner, was born at Nat- land Abbey, and was related to the Stricklands of Sizergh. He died in 1789 at the advanced age of 98, and was buried near the doorway into the Strickland Chapel in our Parish Church. But since the above advertisement appeared in the Kendal Weekly Courant for January 29th, 1731, the house has been much modernised. The family of David Huddlestone, gunpowder maker, of Elterwater Hall, resided here for some time. Watchman, Temp. James I. Referred to on page 115. Watchman in his box. Referred to on page 116. No. 152. On the same side of the street a little further south stands the three-storied and rough-casted house wherein the celebrated George Romney died on the 15th day of November, 1802, in his 68th year. I shall have a good deal :to say about the life and. work of our artist when 190 KIRKBIE KENDALL. describing his first abode in Redman's Yard, Stricklandgate, so that it will be only necessary here to quote from the Newcastle Chronicle for November 27th, 1802, as follows : — " Died Monday se'nnight at his house in Kendal, where he had resided for some time in a poor state of health, George Romney, Esqre., well known for his eminent abilities as a painter, of which he gave numerous proofs in the course of several years' successful practice in the Metropolis." In May of the previous year an old friend of the family, William Cockin, died here at the age of 65 years. In the former part of his life he taught writing and arithmetic at St. Bees, and afterwards for many years at this town and at Nottingham. As a teacher he was universally allowed to be at the head of his profession, nor was he more remarkable for the solidity, depth, and vigour of his understanding than for a peculiarly happy and original method of conveying instruction. He was the author of an " Essay on delivering Written Language," " Ode to the Genius ofthe Lakes," " Fall of Scepticism and Infidelity Predicted," the " Theory ofthe Syphon," and also of a revision of " West's Guide to the Lakes." N -ino Here was the " Cross Keys Inn " in days gone by, with the arms of the Papal See as its sign. The late Rev. James Gibson said that the next house, the " Hie Coomber," was one of the houses used in secret by the Roman Catholics when first venturing to perform mass in this neighbourhood, being obliged to move from house to house to avoid detection and punishment. But one would be rather more disposed to think that he meant this house. Hie Coombe ^n<^ n0W We come to tne town-end house, with iron rails in front, built upon the site of the once famous and thatched public house named the " Hie Coomber." On its sign board was painted a fine water spaniel named Coomber pursuing a duck in the water, with the encouraging exclamation " hie (away) Coomber." From an inventory taken July 10th, 1579, in a " taverne at Kirkefield howse " in Kendal, we find such a large quantity of wines and flagons as to lead us to think that the " Hie Coomber " in those cheerful days had pretentions to the favours of Kendalians, and perhaps to temptations also. The last of the family of John Lambert, of Watch Field, came to reside in this house, and as they were lessees of the tithes for Trinity College, KIRKLAND. i9i Cambridge, the Tithe Barn stood on the opposite side of the road. From Todd's plan it will be seen that it ran east and west, and projected out considerably on to the road. The end nearest the river was a nail manufactory carried on by Messrs. Bindloss, ironmongers, in Kirkland, over which was a dwelling. A narrow rural-looking lane led down to this factory, and at the bottom corner there was a stile which opened on to the cool and pleasing walk along the river side to Watch Field. g. « Continuing along the Milnthorpe Road, or what in Speed's plan (1614) is named " Hersoms Lane," we come to the ancient stone cross at which the wayfarer stopped for prayer on his leaving or entering the town. It was erected on the brow of the hill near to where the Orphan Home now stands. And there was need for such intercession before going out into, or for such thanksgiving after passing in from, the wild district to the south in the lawless days. There is still to be seen on the fence wall a rudely engraved cross for the purpose of marking the exact locality where the cross once stood. It is mentioned as being in existence in the steward's accounts of William Parr, of Kendal Castle — Temp. Elizabeth. « ,,. ,-. , -. From hence, passing southward to the extreme limits of Collin Field. Nethergraveship, one cannot but help noticing the two XVIth Century manor houses of Collin Field to the right, which had a park like approach before the days of the Hawesmead and the neighbouring walls, and Watch Field to the left, at one time half buried in lofty trees. In a dilapidated condition the historic Collin Field still retains many of its ancient features, occupying three sides of a quadrangle paved with small pebbles, and enclosed on the fourth side by a strong wall and gate, which when shut secured the inhabitants a fairly safe retreat from attack. In 1612 there was married at Kendal Church Jefferey Sedgwicke and Anne Briggs of Helsington. There is an ancient house not far from the chapel there known as " Bridge House," which was originally " Brigg's House,"* and where the initials " R. B." are still preserved in stained glass, doubtless for Robert Briggs, the first Recorder of Kendal. Mr. and Mrs. Sedgwick had four daughters and three sons. When the eldest daughter was christened in 1615, * Some future ignorant owner must have thought the name of Briggs was a corruption of brig, and in his wisdom modernised the name to Bridge. ig2 KIRKBIE KEtfDALL. the parents were described as of " ye field." In 1627 the parents are described as of "ye ffield in HeLsington called Collin Field," and in January of the following year Jefferey died. George Sedgwick, born at Killington in 1618, doubtless some relation, and whose mother was a Miss Benson, of Ings, was for eighteen years in the service of that powerful and gifted woman Anne Countess of Pembroke, who, by the way, was one of the two known ladies who have held the office of Sheriffess. And it was through her generous gift of £200, "being mindful of the wellbeing of her favourite secretary," that George was enabled to purchase this house in 1668, but from whom I cannot ascertain. Mr. Sedgwick, in a letter entitled " A summary or memorial of my own life, written by me to the honour and glory of God and in thankful commemo ration of His manifold goodness and mercies to me, in the whole course thereof," says : — " Within a while God directed me to Collin Field, a small estate held under Queen Catharine as part of her jointure, by a moderate rate and fine, convenient for the church and market, freed from all assizes and sessions, where by God's blessing I enjoy a quiet and retired life to my con tentment, having oftentimes the society of several of my worthy friends and neighbours from the town of Kendal, having lived here for above fourteen years at the writing hereof in 1682," &c, &c. George died in June, 1685, aged 67 years, and was buried at the east end of the nave to the Parish Church beneath the pew which he originally occupied. After his death Collin Field became the residence ofthe Chambre family ; and then in 1747 George Sedg wick, nephew to the above George Sedgwick, sold it to John Yeates, a tanner, father of Anthony Yeates, of Kirkland, for £680, subject to a customary rent of £1 18s. 4d. to Nethergraveship, in whose family the building still remains. Over the door is an inscription :— NVNC MEA MOX HVIVS, SED POSTEA NESCIO CVIVS 1663 §<*„ which may be interpreted thus : — " Now mine, soon his, afterwards I know not whose." The initials " I. M. G." refer probably to the owners at that KIRKLAND. i93 time, for there seems to be no reason for Cornelius Nicholson's theory that the stone was brought from Brougham Castle. This stone, before the new porch was erected, was inserted in the wall over the old front door where the sculptured stone now is. On the oaken entrance door, so amply studded with pegs, is a large wooden lock bearing the initials " A. P.," sent as a gift from the Countess, and with her portrait it seems to have been a favourite kind of present with her, claiming as she did a master key and the free right of entrance as a refuge during the Protectorate of Cromwell, in order to elude the pursuit and persecution of her political enemies. The original key is still hanging on the door, and one can only pity the Countess's pocket to have to carry a duplicate key such as this. Passing through the " hallan," one is immediately struck with the bygone beauty of this place ; but, oh ! how sad it is to see its present damp and ruinous condition for the lack of some rain-water spouts and drains. Here are still to be seen in the two dampest of all the rooms (now disused) the remarkable plaster overmantel and friezes buried thick beneath repeated whitewashings and fragments of stained glass in the lattice windows, which bespeak their former elegance. Paved with pebbles, as was usual, is the kitchen (also now deserted), with its large open fireplace, spacious chimney and rannel-bouk, from which would be suspended the seething pot. By the help of peats these kitchen fires were never allowed to burn quite out. Not only was it considered unlucky for the hearth to grow cold, but it was also necessary in former times to keep some light burn- ( ing, as to strike a light afresh was a long and tedious opera tion. The tinder-box employed commonly, consisted of a cir cular tin (fig. 3) four inches in diameter and one-and-a-half in height. It had a lid (fig. 1) which fitted over it canister- wise and in the centre was soldered a tin tube used as a candle-stick. The black tinder of charred linen rags, the manufacture of which was one of the accomplishments of our 194 KIRKBIE KENDALL. foremothers, lay flat at the bottom of the box, and a disk of tin (fig. 2) called the damper, was used to extinguish the sparks when they had served their. purpose. The steel or striker (fig. 4) usually made out of an old file, a piece of flint and some home made strips of wood dipped in sulphur (figs. 5 and 6) com pleted the outfit. Should by ill chance the last glow of fire have died away, then the first sound ofthe early morning was the click, click, click of the kitchen maid, striking with her right hand the steel forcibly downwards Staking a Light- against the flint held firmly in the left hand over the tinder. With each blow adroitly directed the sparks would fall, until a sensitive portion of the tinder became alighted, and then all that remained to do was to gently blow the glowing carbon, apply the sulphur match end, which would burst into a blue blaze, light the candle, and the thing was done. But to return from this mild digression to the dining hall, we notice the ingle beam, now spanning across a modern range, still adorned with three pair of stag horns, and to the left of it (recessed back) is the " locker," bearing the initials " G. S., 1674," cut deep into the carved oak door. On the opposite side is a fine screen dividing off the larders and pantry, wherein is the only ancient fitting left — a handsome carved oaken cupboard, bearing date 1675 and the initials " G. S." At the top of the staircase, with its curiously- cut balusters, is the " wishing gate " and several bedrooms, of which one large one, with its black oak polished floor and oaken mullions, is especially worthy KIRKLAND. ig5 of notice, having been furnished until only recently with antique furniture and portraits by Romney and others. And so the good old house still stands bereft indeed of its glory — a pitiful wreck, falling quickly to decay, yet still audible enough with the tale of graceful lives spent beneath its roof. w The principal place for fording the river on entering the town from the south, and before Nether Bridge was built, may have been near the picturesque dwelling of Watts or Watch Field, as the name " Wath " given to it in olden times seems to imply ; and it is very probable that when the Roman Station at Water Crook was in- its glory, this ford would be the site of extensive fortifications to defend the crossing of the river. In the grant to the church made by Gilbert about the year 1190, mention is made of " Wath Slack " in tracing the boundaries from Stainbank Green, and there is at the present time a public way from the Helsington Road, by Helsington Laithes, and a ford across the river at Watch Field. The late George Foster Braithwaite possessed an ancient seal, which was found at this ford in October, 1886, and which he subsequently gave to the late Archdeacon Cooper. It was the seal of Sir Joseph Cradock, Chief Commis sioner of Richmond, who is depicted seated in a chair of state and clothed in the robe and velvet cap of a Doctor of Laws. Below is his coat of arms, with the crescent for difference impaling the arms of his wife. On either side is the date 1674, and around the margin the inscription : — " Sigill Joseph Cradock Militis Comissa Arch. Richmondioe." The house was formerly known by the name of " Cayrus House," it being exchanged in 1363 from John del Chambre to Richard Carus. Later it became the residence of the great Lambert family, but it is also justly honoured as being the home of Thomas Simpson, a native, who acquired a considerable fortune as a coach builder in London. It seems that he attracted the notice of George III., who in his accustomary walks in the park, observed Simpson going to his work punctually at six o'clock every morning. At last the King, asking where he was employed, visited the manufactory and requested that Simpson should be employed to make the wheels for a coach, which His Majesty then and there ordered. Under such a favourable patronage, Simpson quickly started business on his own account and became exceedingly popular in his trade, amassing a large fortune, and then returned to Watch Field, where he died in 1830, aged 61 years. 1 96 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Just before reaching Nether Bridge at the north corner, there was in the year 1700, {i.e. when a plan of the Vicarage grounds was made in order to shew the proposed new tanyards), a wide ford left open as a watering place for cattle. A part of this was afterwards seized and the site occupied by a malt kiln, which must have rendered the entrance to the town very narrow and inconvenient. It was used by a Quaker gentleman, Simon Crossfield, for some time, and after his death by Isaac Hadwen, who fell heir to his property. Kendal Chronicle, March 9th, 1822 : — " To be sold all the materials of the Malt Kiln, at the end of Nether Bridge, in Kirkland, late in the possession of Isaac Hadwen." Kendal Chronicle, June 15th, 1822 : — " A statement ofthe accounts of the Treasurer and Surveyors of the Heronsike and Eamont Bridge turnpike road, for the year ending on the 12th day of May, 1822. To Isaac Hadwen, consideration money for purchase of part premises near Nether Bridge £510." Kendal Chronicle, August 3rd. 1822 :— " To be Sold by Auction at the ' Commercial Inn' in Kendal, on Tuesday, the 27th day of August, the remainder of the old Malt Kiln." James Webster of the " Commercial " seems to have been the purchaser, with such a title as could be given, and he thereupon converted the place into the present lobsided row of cottages. Nether Bridge In I3^6 there waS a £rant of Pontage made for five years for repairing this bridge, and on 21st December, 1582 :— " Itm it is ordained and constitutyd by the Alderman and Head Burgesses aforesayd wth the full advise & assent aswell of the xxiiijti sworn assistaunts as off most pte off the honest Inhabitant.es heare that no maner of pson or psons from hencfurthe shall or may, either drawe or traile any tymber or other draughte whatsoever either by strengthe of horses or other catall or by the power of men (above one only beast draught, at any one tyme) Over either of the Brydges called stramangt or Nether brydge Sup pen for fact toe quoc xijd thone halff thereof to the Chamber & the other halff to the Brigtolers." At first the bridge was only wide enough for one cart to pass over it at the same time, but in the year 1772 it was doubled in width, only to be washed away some three weeks after by the high flood on the 29th of October. How ever it would seem that the addition was quickly rebuilt again on the northern side. It will be noticed that the lower or southern half is double arched and of much older workmanship. Those who have not noticed the way in which the pack horse bridges of Westmorland have been made available for wheeled carriages by the rude and simple plan of doubling them, will find worthy of NETHER BRIDGE, KENDAL. KIRKLAND. 197 observation the skilful manner in which the common stone of the country has been effectually adapted for this purpose in this bridge. The toll gate was let in 1812 for £377, in 1819 for £700, and in 1822 for £626. Netherfield Works. Crossing the bridge, we come to the fac tory commenced by " Tommy " Wilson in 1825. Prior to this date, Wilson carried on his busi ness of weaving cali coes in what is called the Old Barracks, and also in a large building opposite the Buttery Well stile, but on moving to these premises he branched out into the fancy waistcoat ing trade, which was for many years so successfully carried on here. I have before me a large poster announc ing the sale of the place by order of the assignees of Thomas Wilson and Sons, on June 16th, 1843, in which the works are described as containing an area of 2756 square yards, also two genteel dwelling houses and two cottages adjoining. The works have now passed to Messr-s. Somervell Bros., and HW1 mwM/I/ wm: : . ffe Nether Bridge. From Lake Country Romances. Rev. H. V. Mills. ig8 KIRKBIE KENDALL. in their ever increasing sheds are made " uppers " by machinery, and the celebrated " K " boot. Formerly called " Cook Lane," was widened in the year 1861, when two houses were built at the western end for Henry Whitehead. „„ . Coal gas was known in England for more than two hundred Gas IfiTorks. years before the knowledge was put to practical use. As early as 1659, at a coal mine at Wigan, attention was attracted by its property of catching fire. Boyle, the chemist, made experiments, distilled coal in a retort, collecting the gas in bladders, and provided amusement for his friends by burning it as it escaped through tiny holes. Well nigh eighty years passed before the discovery was heard of again, when in 1733 Sir James Lowther brought the subject under the notice of the Royal Society. A coal mine at Whitehaven became surcharged with gas, and to prevent dangerous conse quences, a tube was laid to the mouth of the pit, where it was ignited, and went on burning for nearly three years without any apparent decrease. Another generation passed away before Mr. Murdoch, of Redruth, in Cornwall, made coal gas in a small retort, and used it for domestic purposes. In 1797 he removed to Scotland. From Ayrshire the use of the new illuminant passed to Birmingham, where Messrs. Boulton and Watt had their premises lighted with it, and from them it spread to other Birmingham houses, and thence to Manchester and other northern manufacturing towns. Yet people did not use coal gas much in their houses ; they complained of the smoke injuring the furniture, and that its use caused headache. In those days we were happy and content with the lanthorn and the friendly help of the link-boy, who with his torch of pitch and tow, revealed the way until the year 1814, when no less than 140 oil lamps enlightened or rather made the more visible the darkness of our town. Of the delightful character of these link-boys, who followed the calling as a cloak for theft, Gay in his " Trivia " says : — " Though thou art tempted by the linkman's call, Yet trust him not along a lonely wall : Link Boy *n tne m'dway he'll quench the flaming brand, And share the booty with his pilfering band." KIRKLAND. io9 "On September 3rd, 1814, William Pennyngton, clerk to the Kendal Fell Trustees, advertizes for a contract for lighting, attending to and dressing about 140 lamps, finding all materials, etc. They must have the ' best whale oil and 24 threads of the best cotton wick to each burner, and burn with a full clear light from sunset till daybreak.' " However, Kendal was not destined to remain long after this in the odour of the burning wicks, for I find a notice of a public meeting convened on October 16th, 1824, at the Town Hall, to form a Company for the purpose of lighting the town with gas. The expense of the undertaking was estimated at £6,000 ; and so great was the delight of the meeting, that before a subscription list, handed round, arrived at the end of its journey, the requisite number of shares of £20 each were filled. Many left the meeting disappointed, so great was the desire to become shareholders. In the following year the gas works were built, but many additions have been made to them since. On the frieze, facing the front gates, is the appropriate motto : — " ex fumo dare lucem." The operation of laying the pipes throughout the streets proved a source of great diversion to the townsfolk by day, and of serious trouble to the frequenters of the many inns after nightfall. The first great difficulty was experienced in crossing over the Nether Bridge, the space between the road surface and the arch stones being too small for the burying of a nine inch pipe. Moreover, Joe Gas, as he was locally nicknamed, the foreman from London, became frightened of disturbing the solidity of the old bridge. However, the pipe at last found rest upon the south side, and taking a wide bend, took its course up the western side of Kirkland, only to encounter heavy rock excava tion in the already lowered road before High Front. Another prolonged difficulty occurred near the entrance to the Kirkland smithy, for, as we have said, the outlet from the Anchorite's Well passed down a large square culvert and crossed the road at this point. It was a perplexing affair to the workmen, as long before they reached it, and until they had passed up alongside for some considerable way, the water forced its way into the trench and interfered sadly with the comfort of the men. The town was first lighted up on Monday, July 25th, 1825, when the brilliant novelty caused great excitement and rejoicing. The Gas Company invited the authorities to a glass of wine at the Town Hall, after which they 200 KIRKBIE KENDALL. formed into procession, and preceded by a band, paraded through the principal streets, accompanied by thousands of spectators. But I gather from the Gossip of Kendal's old friend, " Sally Alick," that the illuminating qualities of the gas were not very brilliant. " Gas forsooth ! " she says and laughs again, " Why Mr. Per Pro, I have sometimes to light a candle to see whether my gas is burning or not." The undertaking was purchased by the Corporation in 1894 at a cost of £80,000. The chapels and lodges were erected in 1854 upon a plot of Cemetery. . ground which consists of two portions separated by a township road. That on the north side being six acres, was consecrated in August, 1855, by the Bishop of Chester, for members of the Established Church, and the Roman Catholic Church. That on the south for the use of Dissenters. At the same time the road was widened ; and yet for all that, I am led to wonder if the road is still wide and impervious enough to prevent contamina tion to the land on the north side ! Oh ! the sin of it, which is ours to-day and will continue to be as long as we allow either the road to divide or the creed to separate God's people in God's own acre. An additional plot of ground was added and consecrated on Wednesday, April 15th, 1868, by the Right Rev. Samuel Waldegrave. Another large plot was added three years ago and a part consecrated by Bishop Bardsley. V. Holy Trinity Church. " The very majesty and holiness of the place where God is worshipped, hath, in respect of us, great virtue, force and efficacy, for that it serveth to stir up devotion, and in that respect, no doubt, bettereth even our holiest and best actions in this kind." — Hooker. Eccles. Polity, Book V. 203 HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. MANY a year has passed away, since first amidst a wilderness of wood and mountain, a Church of God was raised on forked timbers with mud wattle-woven sides and roof of thatch — since holy men went forth to spread the faith, and good men, devoting of their substance, endowed and built this fabric. The Parish Church of Kendal in its early history, growth, restorations, and present condition, is a record and architectural monument of the early history, growth, change and present condition of the inhabitants of this ancient town. The two are inseparably connected. What our forefathers were in their piety or commercial status, such they made their Church ; what we are to-day, such will the record of our Church become. In trying therefore to trace the history of this most interesting edifice, we find also lying beneath it another history of its congregation, at times zealous, and then mean and cold, only to be re-awakened by a surprising ardour of loyalty and self-sacrifice. It was the altar of this town, when Hearth and Altar stood against the Crown, and when Crown and Altar stood against the people. It has stood during all the border raids, seen the monasteries suppressed, Popes defied, and it has survived the healthy sifting time of the Reformation and Commonwealth. It has been in good hands and in bad hands ; but in all positions the Church has ever been a stone in the history of our forefathers. _ No information can be got from drawings contained in the • Saxon Church. ,...,_ old manuscripts and sagas, from descriptions in the Saxon chronicles, or from metrical romances, of who first planted the Cross of Christ here ; but that there was upon the site of the present Nave an ancient Saxon Church, as well as at Kirkby Lonsdale, is gathered from the " Domesday Booke" (the Book of Judgment, because from that, as from the Day of 204 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Judgment, " there lyes noe appeale,") in which the distinguishing name of " Cherchebi " is there given to them both. Doubtless many of the other villages mentioned had buildings for worship, but if so they were all dependent upon the two great Saxon Mother Churches of Kendal and Lonsdale. _ The conquest of England by the Duke of Normandy, had Norman Period. H b . . J a vast influence on our ecclesiastical architecture. Con tinental art advanced at a pace entirely unknown in this island, so tha,J the religious houses which met the eyes of the prelates who came in the victor's train, must have appeared to them both plain and rude. Scarcely, however, had the Conqueror's throne been secured, than his countrymen, who had received from him places in the Abbeys and Sees of England, began to rebuild on new and grander plans, the Churches under their charge. In all parts of the land, east and west, north and south, builders were at work. The chink of the chisel and the blow of the hammer rang everywhere in the ears of the XIIth Century of England. Surely never was an age so enthusiastic in building ! Here in Kendal the fortunes of both Castle and Church were shaped by the doughty first Baron of Kendal, Ivo de Talbois, but unfortunately there is no record of the extent to which he caused the Church to be remodelled from the Saxon plan. So far as I can see, no Norman work now remains to tell its tale. He it was who presented wholesale the tithes of his Westmorland estates to St. Mary's Abbey at York (founded 1056), subject to the duty of providing for the service of the Churches therein. It appears from an inquisition of Ad quo damnum taken at Appleby before the Sheriff, on. Thurs day next after the Epiphany in the year 1302, that it was found to be " of no damage to the King or any other to appropriate the Church of Kirkby-in- Kendal to the Abbot and Convent of St. Mary's York." In the meantime, however, William de Lancaster II. the 6th Baron of Kendal had made a munificent grant of land to the Church, the Glebe and Vicar's fields, reciting the dedication as " To the Holy Trinity." Early English Church. Gilbert the SOn °f Roger Fitz Reinfred> who als0 procured a grant for a weekly market and in other ways exerted himself in the interest of the town, seems to have been the Baron who undertook the principal rebuilding, for the oldest part now remaining coincides with that transitional period during Henry Ill's reign, HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 205 when the Early English Gothic architecture gradually swept northward to supersede the Norman. There is an entry in the Records of York to the effect that an indulgence was granted for some radical repairs in the year 1232 as follows : — " May 16th, 1232, Indulgentia pro ecclesia de Kendall miserabili ruina deformata." The Church had originally two Rectors, but in the year 1252 the medieties were consolidated with consent of the Abbey. The Early English Church consisted only of the present chancel, nave, tower, and two inner aisles, to which were soon added the Chapels of St. Catherine V.M. (Strickland) and St. Thomas-a-Becket, (now occupied by the organ), on either side of the chancel. The legend of St. Catharine is not earlier than the VIIIth Century, and was not introduced into Western Christ endom till after the Crusade in the XIth Century. Her cultus then became rapidly popular. We have some fifty Churches in England bearing her name, and a vast number of Chantry Chapels and altars. At this time the porch was on the south side, the foundations of which are still existing below the pavement near to the second arch from the west. The south porch was formerly something more than an ornament or even a shelter, for it was a recognised portion of the sacred building and had its appointed place in the services of the Church. For instance, baptism was frequently administered here to symbolize that by that sacrament the infant entered into Holy Church, and at the time of the celebration the northern door was opened wide, that the Devil, formally renounced in the rite, might by that way flee " to his own place." Of this early building there now only remains the pointed arches of the nave and perhaps of the chancel, the freestone columns of the nave, certainly the bases, and the very thick plinthless west wall with the arches and lower part of the present tower. The high altar probably stood a little forward from the east wall, and had a passage behind it, as is shewn from the position of the niche in the first pillar on the south side, similarly placed in the other -Church at Kirkby-in-Lonsdale. This niche was discovered in 1829, filled up with loose round stones, and plastered over, the Gothic arch of which rejected from its place in the restoration of 1850, is still to be seen in the Bellingham Chapel. 3o6 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Judging from the few remaining details, the edifice must have possessed considerable dignity and beauty, perhaps exceeding the present one in archi tectural merit, if not in grandeur, and thus did it exist for many years, until the rage for erecting chantries, which reached a culminating point in the XVth Century. . The Parr Chapel was added early in the XIVth Century, but to whom it was dedicated is not known. Like the chantries of St. Catharine and Thomas-a-Becket, it originally extended another bay further westward. As a small proof of this, it is interesting to notice the family badge, that uncouth maiden's head couped, still existing near the capital of the second column from the east end, and likewise over the arch stones of the three windows. The corbel, from which the first arch springs, bears rudely carved the arms of Strickland, Brus, and Parr. A manu script in the Herald's College Library refers to these curious maiden heads as follows : — " The badge of the Lady Katherine Parre, and last wife of Kinge H. 8. This badge was also given by Kinge H. 8 to the forsayd lady, being his Queen, and standeth in the walks about the preaching-place of Whitehall, under the tarras. This badge does not appear to have been an entire new fancy, but to have been composed from the rose badge of King Henry VIII., and from one previously used by this Queen's family. The house of Parr had before this time assumed as one of their devices a maiden's head, couped below the breasts, vested in ermine and gold, her hair of the last, and her temples encircled with a wreath of red and white roses, and this badge they had derived from the family of Ros, of Kendal." St 1W Ch Then in the year 1321, St. Mary's Chantry, situated to the west of the Parr Chapel, was founded. The Abbot and Convent of the Monastery at York " bound themselves and their successors to find and maintain a chantry in the Church of Kendal, at the altar of St. Mary, for one secular priest, and to allow him £5 for the purpose of celebrating mass for the soul of the then Vicar, Roger de Kirkeby." The Flemish Aisle. In I331' J°hn Kempe' a manufacturer from Flanders, received a " letter of protection " to establish himself, men, servants, and apprentices in England for the purpose of practising his craft of woollen manufacture. He settled in Kendal. In HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 207 1335, the famous " Brewer of Ghent," Jacques Van Artevelde, became an ally of Edward III. in the war between England and France, and the Flemish merchants at once realised vast profits by such an advantageous connection — a circumstance which induced the citizens of Ghent to submit as long as they did to the despotic rule of Jacques. But when in 1345, the " King's dear gossip " of a brewer proposed that Edward's son should be elected Count of Flanders, an insurrection broke out, Jacques was slain, and his followers — mostly weavers — flocked over to Kendal in great numbers to escape the wrath of their fellow-countrymen. Kendal thus became the centre of a large Flemish manufacture, and it would seem evident that the south outer aisle was completed with its millstone grit columns, to accommodate this additional population, the porch being removed to the west end of the new south aisle. t» j- i «i_ i Passing over the XVth Century, during which Perpendicular Church. J b long period I can gather but little information about the fabric, except that it fell into a very neglected state, I come to the time of that wonderful zeal for the glory of the sanctuary, which manifested itself by remodelling the Early English Gothic into the prevailing, but immeasurably inferior style of the XVIth Century — alterations which ultimately led to an extensive enlargement and reconstruction of portions of the fabric. The outer walls were first attacked and made to assume a Perpendicular dress, a clerestory was raised on the nave arcade, and several other chapels were added. An Indulgence, granted August 10th, 1511, and limited to 100 days, procured means to complete a " beautiful chapel," dedicated to St. Anna, and founded by Thomas Birkhede, of Hugill. William Shepherd, of Helsington, chapman, and William Herreyson, founded and built a quire to St. Anthony, in which " quere " the former directed, in his will dated January 17th, 1542, his body to be buried, having endowed the chantry with estates sufficient for its support and that of the priest attached to it. In like manner, Thomas Wilson, on June 8th, 1559, directs his body to be buried in the "pariche churche, under Saynte Christopher's loft." In Henry VIII.'s ecclesiastical survey the living is valued at £99' 5s., and the Deaneries of Kendal and Lonsdale are united to form part of the Archdeaconry of Richmond and Diocese of York. But upon the consecration of the See of Chester in 1541, these Deaneries were separated and made part of that Bishopric. In 1856 they were annexed to the Diocese of Carlisle and 2o8 KIRKBIE KENDALL. formed the Archdeaconry of Westmorland, with Cartmel and Furness in the county of Lancashire. After the dissolution of the Monasteries in 1553, Queen Mary, conceiving the condition of her father's soul to be so desperate, was persuaded, after consultation with her spiritual advisers, to bestow as an act of private affection to his memory, propitiation being out of the question, the Kendal, Kirkby Lonsdale, and other advowsons upon Trinity College, Cambridge, together with an annual sum of £376 10s. 3d. The priests assured her that it would be useless for them to petition His Holiness to allow public prayer to be made for her father, as they were sure the successor of St. Peter would never allow such an honour to be done to one who had died " so notorious a schismatic." The gift, however, did not apparently pass to the College until the latter end ofthe reign of James I. The inscription on the chest tomb of Sir Roger Bellingham in the stately Lady Chapel fixes the building at a date anterior to 1553, as it is there stated that of " his own proper costs and charges he builded the chapell of Our Lady within this Church of Kendall." The practice of dedicating chapels to the Blessed Virgin was introduced into this country during the twelfth century, shortly after the monastic orders had gained the supremacy over the parochial clergy. These buildings were generally founded not only to satisfy the spirit of the age, which demanded the veneration of the Mother of our Lord, but also to afford the necessary accom modation at the east end for the increased number of clergy. Moreover, the desire to rest in a chapel so dedicated was closely associated with the idea which chiefly moved our forefathers to erect these buildings. They had been taught to believe in the invocation of saints, and were anxious to secure for themselves and their dear ones the mediation and intercession ofthe Mother of our Lord, whose influence with her Divine Son, they supposed, was all prevailing. So they founded these chapels in her honour, and solicited her good offices by frequent services and prostrations before her image, which occupied the place of honour above the altar. They believed, moreover, that as she could succour the living, so she would prevail with her Son on behalf of the dead. It will be noticed that the easterly arch of this chapel is much narrower than any of the others in the Church, and that the capital of the first column HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 209 is formed of two halves different in size, the westerly half having been inserted. Would this point originally to a side wall, where the second bay now is, with or without another narrow and similar arch connecting the Bellingham and Chambre Chapels ? By reason of the lofty ceiling, it has been conjectured that the chapel might possibly have been divided originally into two storeys, and that the clerestory windows lighted a chamber for the chantry priest ; but I can see no trace of any floor joist hole, fireplace, or access to it. It is just possible of course that when the old south porch, which no doubt contained a parvise, was taken down, the loss of the muniment room or library would be found to be so inconvenient as to compel the construction of a substitute in some other part of the Church ; but if so, why construct a room difficult of access, over the Bellingham Chapel rather than in the new west porch ? We certainly know that the west porch was constructed without a parvise, and, therefore, the inference is that no such accommodation was needed. Before the outer northern aisle was completed the chapel, Northern Aisle. 1, situated at its eastern end, would have an exterior gable wall with windows facing west. But when building this spacious addition, which measures 140 by 27 feet, it would seem that the builders, instead of breaking an archway through, pulled down the entire gable, filling in the space between the two levels of the roofs with woodwork, and divided off the chapel by oaken screens that had originally formed the front and sides of St. Thomas-a-Becket's chantry. A piece of timber, found at the restoration of this aisle roof in 1868, bore in raised figures the date of 1580, which fixes, no doubt, the time of the erection. Whether or not the circular-headed door ways at the west end and at the entrance to the spiral stair are of still older date it is difficult to say. In 1661, " ye High Steeple " was in ruins, and doubtless repaired ; Tower if, indeed, it was not at this time, when the XIIIth Century tower was raised to its present height. In doing so it is very evident that the old stone was used in again as far as possible— as, for instance, the mouldings in the belfry windows at the back ofthe tower, and other fragments that can best be seen from the roof. These bear the ornament of the early period, the local limestone being only used to make up the deficiency. The arched belfry openings of the lower tower, which are now blocked up, can still be seen on a level with the present clock ; especially clear is the one on the south side, o ft)CO>-l t- SOUTH-EAST VIEW, SHEWING THE OLD VESTRY. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. tu seen from the Glebe House Garden. The present tower, 80 feet high by 25 feet wide, stands on four arches, the height from the floor to the point of the eastern arch, which is now considerably bulged out, being 33 feet; to the western arch, 35 feet ; and to the northern and southern arches, 24 feet. The eight pinnacles, prior to 1763, were two to three times taller ; but, being often blown down, were then reduced in height. Old V t There is no record of when the little old vestry was added outside the east-end wall between the two buttresses, but there is a record of the river Kent overflowing the floor on October 18th, 1635, and an item for repairing the roof, owing to the lead being stolen, in 1663. In 1726 a fireplace was put in, at first with a low chimney, and afterwards raised to a height above the main gable. It had no exterior door, but only one com municating with the chancel, first opening from the south and afterwards from the north side. There was also another outbuilding against the east wall near to the vestry, which some have termed the " scullery ; " but whether it was for keeping disinterred bones in, or merely a sexton's shed, cannot be ascertained. THUS did this striking building grow, step by step, until it finally reached its present proportions. As seen to-day, the Church presents the remarkable features of four aisles co-extensive with the nave and chancel, an engaged western tower, and a porch situated at the west end of the outer south aisle. Internally it measures 140 feet by 103 feet, with sitting accommo dation for 1,400, and ample space for almost double that number. Moreover, it boasts of being the fifth widest church in the kingdom.* The plan illustrated on the next page, will convey a fairly good idea of the development of the fabric, if it is noted that the solid black represents what remains of the Early English Period, the hatched portions the work of the Middle Ages, and the dotted portions the Modern work. I have also shewn the original extent of the chapels, and have dotted on the shape of the old communion rails. The pillars of the eastern half dividing the two aisles are very poor in character, out of the perpendicular, and have a different style of base to those further west. Six of the eight pillars are of an irregular octagon form, and one is round. * St. Michael's, Coventry, measures 120 feet; Manchester Cathedral, 112 feet; St. Nicholas, Yarmouth, no feet; and York Cathedral, 106 feet wide. 212 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Kendal P/ir&h Church flofrw ex> John r?ur«en. rTHM- HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 213 Lectureships. Jt WaS anciently the custom in the North of England for the Sunday afternoon to be spent in the reading of prayers only, the sermon having been preached in the morning. But in the year 1627, George Fleming, one of the benefactors to the Free Grammar School, bequeathed £10 towards the raising of a stock for an afternoon lecturer, to be preserved and disposed of by the Aldermen. Henry Wilson, of Underiey Hall (the founder of the Farleton tithes), by his will dated 1639, bequeathed unto the Mayor and Aldermen the sum of £50 for a like purpose upon this trust and confidence that " they do procure a godly, learned, and sober divine to preach unto them at Kendal Church the word of God, and instruct and catechise them also in the principal and fundamental points of the Christian religion every Sabbath for ever." Likewise, Hugh Barrow, by will in 1641, devised out of his lands at Skelsmergh £100 for procuring a lecturer in the afternoon on every or every other Sunday. Edward Fisher bequeathed the further sum of £20. In 1670 Foard left a legacy of £10, and John Hay left 6s. 8d. yearly out of lands in Kendal Parks towards the self same object. For many years back now these lectureships have been paid by the Corporation to the Vicar. On coming to one of these lectures, the famous Bernard Gilpin observed a glove hanging up in a prominent place. Upon asking the reason, the sexton informed him that it was there as a challenge to any one that should take it down. Bernard ordered the sexton to reach it to him, but upon his utterly refusing, Gilpin took it down himself, and put it in his breast. When the people were assembled he went into the pulpit, and before he concluded his sermon took occasion to rebuke them severely for those inhuman challenges. " I hear," saith he, " that one among you hath hanged up a glove even in this sacred place threatening to fight any one who taketh it down. See ! I have taken it down," and pulling out the glove, he held it up to the congregation, and then showed them how unsuitable such stupid practices were to the profession of Christianity. „ In 1658 there is record of re- XVIIth Century Chronological Notes. . . pairs being done to the rough cast, mending of the " fformes," of providing a new " dyall to ye clocke " with a new pointer to " itt," and for mending of the " chyme " and two hammers. In these days the Church glass was kept in repair by contract, the annual sum being "three pounds lawfull English money," reduced in 1666 to 30s. 2i4 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Between the years 1663-5 we have record of rushes being brought to "strawe the High Quire " with, on the occasion ofthe visit ofthe Archdeacon of Richmond, and of washing and sweeping the Church against Sir Joseph's (Cradock) coming to "sitt his Court of Correction, and sentence offenders from his chair of state." Also, in 1664, of a man being paid for varnishing a new censer for Church use. Only think of it ! a censer — yet one must often wish for a waft of incense now to purify the overloaded atmosphere within the Church of to-day. Again, in 1670, of a deep hole being dug within the Church for " burying ye bones." On September nth, 1671, the river swept over the Churchyard wall, where " itt left much ffish." It seems also to have raised up the old flooring of the Vestry, and to have put the wardens to the expense of paying is. 6d. for drink to certain men for removing the oak chest out of reach of the water. In 1675-6 the Communion Table was enlarged and- railed in with close rails and gates for the exclusion of dogs, and there were bought " 15 yeards and a quarter of fine-green-cloth, eleaven yeards offline Hollan, and silk-ffringe for the green table cloth." The table frame and the communion " rayles " were also painted green, and the Lord's Prayer and Creed were painted on a green-framed canvas. During the years 1676 and 1678, 52 cwt. of lead was bought from Sir Philip Musgrave to repair the roof with. This lead came from Hartley Castle, then being dismantled. In 1679, the masonry of the " Lord-Parr-quier " window was repaired. The year following the induction of the Rev. Thomas Murgatroyd as Vicar — 1684 — the Church was " beautified " in every available space with texts of Scripture, cherubim and seraphim, green hissing serpents and flying dragons, and the whole garnished and embroidered with sundry quaint devices and flourishes in green, yellow, and black painted upon the whitewash : the text over the pulpit being — " Cry aloud, spare not, lift up thy voice like a trumpet, and shew my people their transgression and the house of Jacob their sins ; " another, over the Alderman's pew, being — " For rulers are not a terror to good works, but to the evil." The exterior walls were likewise decorated in yellow and black margins some five inches wide on the roughcast, extending round all the doors and windows, up the angles of the walls and buttresses, and completely round the steeple. All this interior "decoration" lasted for 14J years till the restoration of 1829, and the exterior till the removal ofthe rough- HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 215 casting in 1844. It is curious to read in the churchwarden's accounts how a certain James Addison, painter, of Hornby, contracted to do this for the sum of " thirty pounds of currant Inglish money," using "size, soe that it shall not grime or spoil mens cloathes, well writeing of sentencs and flourishing them decently and in good order, alsoe to make anew the Kings Armes and the Ten Commandments and to do them soe well as they shall not peel or fail for the space of twenty years next hereafter coming." It seems that he also contracted for six pounds " to make green the font and pulpit and to beautifie the cornise under the King's Arms." Doubtless the churchwardens could answer with a good conscience the question put at the time of visitation — " Is your Church well plastered within ? " In 1685 the middle alley was reflagged, and the clock loft was refloored with 2-inch planks ; the two northern aisles were like wise reflagged in 1686. v^tt.^. « ,«, . », , On the 22nd day of Tune, 1699, XYIIIth Century Chronological Notes. . . J yy the Rev. William Crosby, who was such a great blessing to the parish for 34 years, became Vicar. He found the Church in a very neglected condition. We are told "many would choose to tarry at home rather than go to the Church." However, he soon found that he did not labour in vain, for through his ministrations and bright example the Church became filled to overflowing. Through his advice, the old custom of burying the dead without coffins was suppressed. He also struck a blow at the drinking customs of that day, for "att a generall meeting of ye church wardens held June 3rd, 1703, it was agreed on by a generall consent yt here after there should be no money spent in eating and drinking upon the parish charge upon any peremptory day, and that the churchwardens be allowed only 4d. a man out ofthe public stock for their refreshment." Some quaint entries concerning the provision and cost of wine for sacred and other less sacred purposes are to be met with prior to this time — for instance, the late Canon Simpson produced a paper which showed that very heavy sums comparatively had been annually spent at Kendal in procuring communion wine. One item was for £6, another £9, and again £11 ; whilst opposite one ofthe entries was the remark — " That is exclusive of wine used at Easter." It would seem that it was customary for the Vicar to give the Easter wine, receiving in return Easter dues. On another occasion, when the Bishop of Chester was about to visit the Church, the wardens ordered a bottle of sack to be placed in the 216 KIRKBIE KENDALL. vestry. Here also is a sidelight : — " Ordered that no wine be given to any clergyman to carry home." Likewise, it was Vicar Crosby who struck the last blow which separated the sports, plays, and dancings of the village wakes, that had hitherto been so closely connected with it, from the Church. On Sundays and holidays the Churchyard used always to be a public playground, but on the great Church festivals the desecration was far worse. Dealers in all kinds of goods appeared on the scene, spread their wares on the tombstones, and could with difficulty be kept out ofthe sacred edifice itself. It is not surprising that a multitude of quaint customs had sprung up around the holy days. For these were the holidays ofthe people in " Merrie England," when they gathered first in the Church, then around the maypole, and lastly, at those feastings on special viands dedicated to special occasions, which, to some extent, live on among us even to this day, although the origin and meaning of them have mostly become lost. From time immemorial, for instance, Christmas cheer was incomplete without its mince-pies and plum pudding, the former emblematic by their shape of the manger-bed and the latter by its rich ingredients of the offerings of the Magi. The pan-cakes of Shrove Tuesday, the simnel cakes of Mid-Lent, the figs of Palm Sunday, we are still attracted by. Even the great fast ofthe year has its peculiar food in the hot cross bun, a survival of the heathen practice of offering consecrated cakes to the gods — the stamp of the cross probably marks the effort of the Church to give a Christian significance to a practice that was found to be practically ineradicable. Whitsuntide used to have its own special feast, known as Whitsun ales or Church ales — an institution by which money was obtained for the repairing of the Church, helping the poor, and various charitable purposes. The wardens brewed the ale, and on the appointed day half the country side assembled to join in the festivities — music and song, bowls and ball, dice and card-playing, dancing and merry-making — but Crosby would have none of them. The burning of the yule-log in sacrifice to Thor the Thunderer ; the use of the mistletoe, that most sacred of all the Druidical plants; and the singing of carols as a memorial of the angelic hymns are still adjuncts to the gaiety and brightness of the Feast of the Nativity. In 1705 the roof was taken off the middle alley, and the timbers renewed. There is an entry of 3s. 3d. paid to Edward Gibbon for "trailing ye HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 217 great Beame for ye Middle Alley from Dr. Archer's, Oxenholme." In 1712 the altar piece was repaired, viz. :— Two pediments, two panels, and two gilded flames. The altar rails and vestry door were repainted and the sun-dial repaired in 1715. Between the years 1723-25 the Church was new glazed with large square crown glass, and the best of the old painted glass carefully preserved. Thirteen yards of new stone muliions were found necessary for reparing the south-east Parr Chapel and the north-east Bellingham Chapel windows. In 1724 Vicar Crosby caused neat gravel walks to be made in the Churchyard. In 1725 a new brass vane, bearing the arms ofthe Corporation of Kendal, was procured at a cost of £2 2s. 6d. — a vane which has now braved the winters of more than 170 years. On December 2nd, 1733, Vicar Crosby preached his last sermon: — "The night is far spent, the day is at hand." Upon the following day he was seized with apoplexy, and on the Friday passed away at eleven o'clock, the same hour that he daily used to go to attend the prayers of the " Church Militant ; " he was called to the " Church Triumphant " at the age of 70 years. During the eleven years of the Rev. Richard Cuthbert's incumbency there is little to record, but the succeeding reign of the Rev. Dr. Symonds is notable as a chapter of accidents. One Sunday, February 21st, 1762, some lead on the roof was thrown up with such violence during a storm, that it broke one of the beams, and so terrified the congregation that they ran out of Church in great confusion. The illustration on the next page shews how tall the tower pinnacles were at this period; indeed, two-and-a-half times taller than they now are. Great was the consternation therefore, when, in the following month, one of them fell through the roof during divine service. The circum stance is quaintly recorded, and concludes by saying that "it did no other damage than break a poor woman's leg in her hurry to get out ofthe Church." Needless to say, all the other pinnacles were immediately looked to, and at once shortened to their present size. Upon another occasion, in May, 1767, again during service, the congregation were terrified by an earthquake shock, accompanied by a great rumbling noise. Thieves broke into the little vestry by lifting the lead covering to the roof on September 23rd, 1775, and stole the communion plate, which was never recovered. It consisted of three silver flagons (one weighing 90 ounces), two silver gilt cups, two silver salvers, and one or two smaller cups of silver. Again, five years later, the new set was likewise stolen, but this time, the thieves were disappointed as they found it to 2l8 KIRKBIE KENDALL. ~> . -.%¦*££, . {.^.' !caft tot-CD »-•tofta: ftbftft* BEFORE THE RESTORATION IN 1850, SHEWING THE OLD WESTERN DOOR AND PORCH. o ft fttoft ao a: AFTER THE RESTORATION IN 1850, SHEWING THE NEW WEST PORCH. 232 KIRKBIE KENDALL. the dilapidated window above. The doors were rebuilt and widened, and the window redressed with fresh tracery. Upon the exterior of one of the muliions will be seen a well carved-horse shoe for good luck. The peculiarly wide porch ofthe XIVth Century was then demolished to make way for the present erection. On the southern side there was a priest's door, with a four-light window beside it, and within was a hoi}' stoup. There is still to be seen on the outer face of the wall a line showing where the flashing of this wide roof came. I have thought it well to put the two elevations of this western facade close together, so that the round-headed arch of the central door and the odd-looking ancient porch can be compared with the work of this restoration. Below the new porch a heating chamber was excavated to take the place of the six old ugly stoves ; and it is said, but I cannot vouch for the fact, that the hot-water pipes now required to heat the Church from this chamber, measure about one mile in length. At this restoration it was also noticed that the bases of the chancel columns were several feet below the then level of the chancel floor, and that the base levels of the whole nave arcade gradually rose upwards to the western end. It was therefore decided to restore this ancient slope once again, and in order to show the bases fully, some nine inches of ground had to be excavated away from the west end and no less than three feet from the east end — an excavation which not only discovered a number of silver and copper coins of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth's time, but also necessitated the removal of " cart-loads " of human bones. It was also discovered that the base of the Sandes' column, being the fifth on the north side from the east end and upon which his monument was erected, had an ornamental band upon it worthy of notice. Previously the aisles had been paved with squares and diamonds of buff and blue paving flags, and upon their being taken up they were used as coping stones, and can now be seen on the Glebe House garden wall.* The old square and high-backed pews, none of which had any interesting feature about them — excepting perhaps the large and high-curtained pew of the Hall situated against the third column from the east in the outer north aisle, and which was lined with blue cloth and plentifully garnished with brass- * Since writing this, the wall has just been taken down and a low dwarf wall with iron railings substituted in its place; a vast improvement which throws open the gardens around the Glebe House. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. *3$ headed nails — was removed, and the entire Church re-seated with low open benches. The four carved oak bench ends of the old clerk's pew alone were kept, and they are now framed into the present front choir stalls. The carving upon the new choir stalls and the different designs on the nave bench ends is decidedly good, and worthy of a better material than stained pitch pine. Seats were provided in the north aisle and raised tier above tier for the boys from the Blue Coat School, National School, and Jennings' Yard School. And at the same time, the Abbot Hall doorway be neath the third north window from the east was blocked up. The renovation of the old black marble font was undertaken by the ladies of the town, and private subscription enabled them to raise it on a massive base in the form of a Maltese Cross, and to pave the baptistry floor with en caustic tiles. The font cover has been erected recently in memory of the late Venerable Archdeacon Cooper. At this time, also, the Bellingham Chapel was re-roofed by the Hon. Mrs. Howard, and the old elaborate oak ceiling — then much decayed — was replaced with a new one of similar design in a rather unsuccessful imita tion ofthe rich fretwork and stalactitic orna ments of the same period in stone. It is adorned with gilt bosses containing the bugle horn and other bearings, the cognizances of the Bellingham family. Two of the clerestory windows in this chapel were many years before blocked up, and it is to be regretted that at this restoration they were not again opened out. Font Cover. By permission of Messrs. Hayes and Parkinson. 234 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Finally, six stained glass windows were presented, and the whole of the clerestory windows in the nave were re-glazed by private gifts. When the congregation re-assembled on June 3rd, 1852, they must have felt it difficult to conceive that they were worshipping, indeed, in the same Church. It is worthy of note that during the whole time of this restoration morning prayers were said in the building, even when the roof was off. Since then, in the year 1854, *he windows of the north aisle, except the Bellingham Chapel, were re-glazed in diamond quarries instead ofthe old square crown glass put in in 1723. The Churchyard was closed for burials on September gth, 1855; and in April, 1857, Christopher Gardener presented a new tower clock. Recent Events. On August 15th, 1858, the Rev. John Cooper, M.A., became Vicar. In the year 1862, the plain perpendicular window of the Strickland Chapel was filled with appropriate tracery in harmony with the corresponding window of the north central aisle, and glazed with the antique green glass which was taken out of the great east window. Unfortunately, the freestone string course, introduced with such good effect under the windows on the south-west side of the Church, and which was one of the features so much insisted on by the archi tect ofthe restoration, was omitted below this window. The restoration of the south-east corner of the Church was commenced on the 23rd day of May, 1864. The walls were strengthened by a plain chamfered plinth of freestone with limestone base, and also by the re-building of all the buttresses except ing one. A moulded freestone string-course was also inserted, with projecting square blocks and gurgoyles, and the whole surmounted with crocketted pin nacles and a battlement. The six windows to the south, including the old priests' door and one to the east, were entirely rebuilt, and the roofs over both aisles, including the chapels, were re-timbered. The limestone sun-dial in the Churchyard was erected in September, 1866. The late Ven. Archdeacon Cooper. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 235 During the progress of these works, costing some £2,200 and lasting over a period of twelve months, divine service was never interfered with or suspended. The beautiful Caen stone dado, presented by Mr. T. A. Argles in memory of the late Tobias Atkinson and of Elizabeth his wife, was completed in 1867. The centre part from the floor to the window sill consists of an arcade of nine pointed Gothic arches, surmounted with a vine leaf cornice and crest of exquisite tracery. The pillars are of polished Kendal Fell marble, with crowned and mitred heads at the springing of the arches. On each side of the window are high curved niches, surmounted by a carved canopy, within which — on the bend — are painted the Ten Commandments, the Creed, and the Lord's Prayer. A good story is told of the late Archdeacon Cooper, that when he was appealed to by a clergyman as to whether it was right to remove the Ten Commandments from the east end, he replied : — " My dear sir, at my Church they have already bent them, and, I am afraid, will before long break them ; so that by removing them you, at least, would prevent such an evil." The restoration of the two north roofs, except that over the Bellingham Chapel, was commenced on July 6th, 1868; unfortunately, after all the experience of oft-repeated decay, they were only executed in pitch pine. At the same time it was found necessary to re-build certain portions of the north west wall, one new buttress facing west was added, the angle one re-built, and a battlemented parapet erected the full length of the north side to match that on the south side, with diabolical gurgoyles to frighten away the evil spirit which superstition always assigns to the north side of a church. All along in the cornice are placed at intervals several freestone paterae cut in divers devices and monograms, among which latter may be noticed J.C., for John Cooper, Vicar ; J.S.C., for Joseph S. Crowther, Architect; W.G.R., for William Grayson Rigden, Curate; F.S., for Francis Scawell, Curate ; and the date 1868 in antique figures. At the same time, the paterae and gurgoyles on the south wall left unfinished in 1864 were likewise carved with devices and monograms. In 1869-70, the east end of the Bellingham Chapel was taken in hand by the Honourable Mrs. Howard, and rebuilt with two new tracery windows to match the rest of the building. In place of the three clerestory windows above these, the architect inserted a rose window with twelve trefoil cups radiating from a cusped sexfoil centre. The old square crown glass, the last remnant of a» tototo.to >-.totototo ftft ELEVATION SHEWING THE NEW EAST WALL TO THE BELLINGHAM CHAPEL. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 237 the 1723 glazing, was taken out and replaced with diamond panes of a slightly greenish hue. The raking battlements of the western pediments of the south aisles have also been re-built with a new freestone buttress, surmounted with a pinnacle at the south-west angle, the old one having become unsafe. Gas was introduced for the first time on Advent Sunday, November 28th, 1869 ; there were in all 580 burners, and the cost was about £200. It is curious to learn that before this — on great occasions — the chandeliers at the dissenting chapels were borrowed to add lustre to the services. In 1891, the family of the late G. F. Braithwaite presented to his memory a chiming clock with inner dial, the original outer dial of the 1857 clock being retained. In July, 1893, whilst re-tuning and repairing the framework of the bells, it was discovered that the massive oak beams of the belfry floor were so decayed through damp that they had to be taken out, and a strong concrete floor on iron girders substituted. The same year the heating apparatus was also renewed. It was from the old green pulpit of 1684 that one of Kendal's worthies, the celebrated Oriental traveller Rev. Thomas Shaw, D.D., preached one Sunday from the text, " A good name is rather to be chosen than great riches," whereupon his drunken brother called out aloud, " So it may be, but how must they do that have neither ? " This green pulpit with its " houre glasse " was removed in the year 1757, not being, so it is said, in harmony with the new seats. In its place an oak " three-decker," costing £16, was erected against the fifth south column from the east end, a great clumsy structure which stretched half-way across the nave, and was surmounted with a canopy. It is said to have been of the Roman Doric style, and bore inlaid the date and sacred monogram. Opposite to it on the north column were hung the King's Arms to constantly remind the preacher of his required loyalty, and on the other side of the same column hung Thomas Sandes' monument, with the Alderman's pew immediately below facing southward. Sixty-six years later — June, 1823 — Vicar Hudson, who had long been dissatisfied with the position of this pulpit, temporarily erected another in the chancel, and covered it with sixty yards of green cloth and furnished it with a blue cushion and tassels. For one Sunday he preached from it, but on the Monday following Josias Lambert, of Watchfield, 238 KIRKBIE KENDALL. took " French leave," and with the assistance of a joiner and an axe demolished the erection, because, as he contended, it blocked up the entrance to his pew. At the time of the great restoration of 1850, the well-carved oak pulpit, raised upon a Caen stone pillar, took the place ofthe old three-decker, which was sold to be converted into a bedstead — truly a most suitable use, seeing that for so long a period it had been the cause of so many falling away into sleep. When the solid bottom step was being sawn across, a cavity was discovered concealing a paper which bor.e the date of 1236. Can it possibly be that this paper was put there to commemorate the first pulpit erected in the Early English Church, which was certainly built about this date ? Prior to the end ofthe XVIIth Century the Church was seated with Seats. open " fformes," and in those days no stoves warmed the incoming draughts ; but after this period, the churchwardens, having consideration for the comfort of the congregation, began to give permission for the erection of closed-in pews. Seven days after Vicar Crosby's induction — on June 29th, 1699 — consent was given for the first pew to be erected " att ye first pillar in ye second row of fformes from ye great church doore." We can easily foresee the results of such an arrangement, for those who were thus comfortably accommodated began to look upon the pews as property which could be handed down from father to son. Twenty-one years later, Thomas Lick- barrow was put to the expense of 6s. iod. in opposing a Mr. Cook for appropriating a pew to himself; and again, in the year 1723, a sum of 4s. was added to the churchwardens' expenses when they met at a public-house to consult as to what methods should be taken to oppose a Mr. Crowle's deter mination of having a pew solely for his own use. On the 12th day of July, 1806, I find the following notice given : — " That a Vestry Meeting of the Churchwardens and Inhabitants of the Parish of Kendal, will be holden in the Parish Church, on Saturday, the twenty-sixth Day of July Instant, at eleven o'clock in the Forenoon, to determine what steps should be taken to remove or Compel to be removed, or to be made public, the Seats or pews lately erected on the South Side of the Chancel, in the said Parish Church. Joseph Garnett, Vestry Clerk." As a result of this meeting, it was agreed that proper steps should be immediately taken to do away with these seats or their appropriation, and that " Messrs. Richardson and Fell be appointed the solicitors to act as they shall think proper or be advised." Two-and-a-half years later another vestry meeting was held on the 21st day of January, 1809, HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 239 "to consider the impropriety of taking up certain places of sitting in the Church, by Mary Lambert and Ann Lambert, spinsters, and of appropriating the said places of sitting to their own use and benefit, in exclusion ofthe rest ofthe said parishioners, etc., etc." Nevertheless the practice seems to have continued, for the newspapers for 1823 frequently contain complaints respecting this usurpation. Again at the restoration of 1850, when the old higgledy-piggledy pews were replaced by low and open benches, a strong effort was made to break away from this illegal custom, and to throw the whole ofthe sittings open to the parishioners. But alas ! owing to lack of funds, the intention was but short lived, for between the years 1858-9, when the parish was sub-divided into 17 district parishes, by Lord Blandford's Act, the mother Church became so straitened in money matters, that the churchwardens were obliged to go back to the principle of raising rents upon allotted seats. Contrary as it undoutedly is to the essential characteristic of a parish church, yet from this time the old custom seems to have revived. _.. _ That there had been an organ in the Church long prior to the The Organ. & 5 F year 1657 there can be no doubt, for in the churchwardens' books of that date there is an inventory, concluding " with some organ pypes and old iron nayled up in a chest neare Sir Thomas Strickland Quire." Then in a deed poll bearing date 22nd February, 1698, we find that Jennet Wilson, second wife of Alderman William Wilson, a tanner, did appoint that her trustees should permit the mayor, recorder, two senior aldermen, vicar and schoolmaster, and their successors for ever to hold " all that close or parcel of Ground called Haverbrack lying in Kendal Park " (worth about £18 a year) upon trust that they and their successors for ever might consent and employ the clear rents, issues and profits thereof yearly for and towards a stipend to an organist (by the major part of them to be elected and approved of) for playing every Sabbath day "upon a pair of Organs in the Parish Church of Kirkby Kendal." On January 21st, 1701, " Vicar Crosby met Mr. Mayor and ye Church wardens to consult about ye organ loft building." Accordingly, in the follow ing year we find that at the west end of the Church the old loft was taken down and a new and larger one erected in its place at a cost of £87 14s. 6d.? 240 KIRKBIE KENDALL. and that 2d. was spent upon a broom to sweep it ! Upon this a new organ was built at a cost of £500, and as some say by Bernard Schmidt, organist at the Collegiate Church, Manchester, from 1682-1696. Here is a lively description of it : — " The broad masses of richly gilt pipes, the frieze, the Bishop's mitres on the side towers, the Crown on the centre tower, with the carving ofthe Acanthus leaf flowing gracefully round the feet of the tiers of pipes. The gallery front a muddle of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, with a large Clock face in the centre, the rest past description. All made of good English oak, and then painted and grained in imitation of oak, until it resembled no wood at all." After the organ was finished, Mr. Preston, organist of Ripon Minster, came to judge and try the instrument. The organ had at first only one manual from GG to D in alt., nine stops, and 672 pipes. Robert Strickland was the organist. On either side under this loft was a large square pew for which a payment was made towards the organist's salary ; these pews remained in situ for one hundred years, i.e., until the year i8or, when they were removed to allow of the side wing extensions to the gallery. The churchwardens' accounts for this period furnish us with some curious items. For instance, in 1706 there is an item of 6d. for a key for the organ, and in the following year one of 3s. " payd more at a meeting of ye church wardens and ye repaire of ye organ." How much of this 3s. was spent at the social meeting at the " Ring o' Bells " and how much on the organ is left to the imagination. It seems that in 1710 it was thought advisable to buy a "lock for ye organ lofte," yet, nevertheless, in 1714 the instrument was in such a very bad state of dilapidation, that on July 21st it was found necessary for the wardens to repair to the inn once again, and spend 2s. 2d. to consult about " repairing the large pipes in ye front of ye organ, which were in danger of falling out." Could it possibly have been the dogs that created so much trouble to the fine old instrument ? For from this time forward and until 1793 the organ blower received his salary for " bellows blowing and dog whipping." There is a curious custom recorded on the authority of Mrs. Maude (who died in 1831 at the age of 88) and of A. Yeates (who died in 1837, aged 93) as in vogue about 1770-80. The severity of long voluntaries upon the organ, HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 2^.1 which sometimes lasted twenty minutes, was miti gated as follows : — "The elite of the congregation, dressed out in the very height of fashion, as they always were on Sunday, used to leave their seats to promenade the aisles, backwards and for wards, chatting and strutting about till the music ceased, when they would compla cently return to their high- backed pews, gaudily lined with some bright coloured cloth and shining brass- headed nails, and, being once more snugly ensconsed, would immediately fall into sleep." But to return again to the poor organ which had stood for 88 years. The end of "Father Smith's" instrument came at last, for on April the 6th, 1790, it was doomed to a complete transformation and repair. The tone was lowered by one note in order to bring it to concert pitch, a swell organ was added with six stops (25 pipes), and a trumpet stop to the Smith manual of 56 pipes, in order, it is said, to make it suitable for public concerts. Several MUSICAL FESTIVAL AT KENDAL. ONDER THE PA+RONACE OP Sir MICHAEL t.E FLEMING, Bart PrefideiH. 'DANIEL WILSON; Efq Vicc-Prefident. John Morland, f.fq. Myles Sandys, Erq Thorrus Strickland, Efq; Jarrard Strickland, Efq. Rev. Richard Wadefon, B. James Wilfon, Efq. Chridopher Willon.Efq. Henry Ainflie, MxD. Rev, George Bcllafis, D. D. John Burp, Efq. William Wilfon Canis, Eli). Alan Chambre, Efq. Myles Harrifon, Elq, William Havgarth, Efq Jofeph Maude, Elq STEWARDS, THERE will be performed in the CHURCH ofKENDAL, On WEDNESDAY Morning, the 29th of AUGUST, 179s, A grand Selection of SACRED MUSIC, From the Works of HANDEL. And at ihe THEATRE, ON WEDNESDAY (EVENING, A GRAND ^MISCELLANEOUS CONCERT, In which wiU be performed Some of the mod admired Glf.es, &c. by the principal' Vocal Performers, and Solos, Concertos, &c. by* ihe principal Inlt.umemal Performers. On THURSDAY Morning, AUGUST 30th, The SACRED ORATORIO of the MESSIAH. And in the EvENrNG^a 'BALL. LEADER ofthe BAND, Mr. HAIGJi*, of MUnchestjr. Among the Vocal - Performers are Mrs Shepley, Mifs Worral, three MifsTravifes, Mifs Lawforr, and Mrs. Rulfcl, Meffrs. Meredith, Hole, i, Oldham, Travis, ~Neild,' Jiey- wood. Whitehead, Lee, Baj low, Marlow, etc, &c. &c. Among the I.iftrumental Performers are MrHVs. Nichol- fon, Hughes, Humphreys. Langhorn, Two Entwiftles, Twos Jackfons, Sudlow, Clough, Blauharhafet, Hill, Langlhaw, Robinfon, &c. &c. The whole under the Direflion of Mr. Mt R (di th, aud Mr. J*cksou. Qrganift. Subscription Tickets, transferable, for the Firft Seats, for the Two Performances in the Church, aud the Concert at the Theatre, 19*. ' Single Tickets f«rr each Performance in the Church, Firft Se ats 55 . — Second Seats 3s — Third Seats is. 6d. > Single Tickets for the Concert irt the Theatre, Boxes and Pit^s. — Gallery as. Tickets, and Books" of the Words, to be had of Mr. ¦ Jackfon, Mr. Garnet, nrar the Chuich, and of Mr. Penning- ton, Printer, in Kendal , ((tsf- No Mon-v wil. li, taken -at the Doors. Eadr^g^rning Performance \..ii Degin at Eleven o'CIock, l|adj^fte^^&£ Pcufiirnifiice a: N' v;.i o'gloek. (34J 242 KIRKBIE KENDALL. of these sacred concerts were held at irregular intervals, in conjunction with similar ones of a secular character held at the Woolpack Yard Theatre, and together they formed a musical festival usually extending over three or four days. MESSIAH. SACRED ORATORIO. In I7gi David Jackson was appointed organist, and we find that on the 29th and 30th days of August, 1792, the first of these festivals was held under his direction and that of Mr. Meredith. " The band was full and well chosen, and the company was exceedingly gen teel and respectable." Wednes day morning was devoted to a " A Grand Selection of Sacred Music from the Works of Han del " in the Church, and at the theatre in the evening there was " A Grand Miscellaneous Concert." On the Thursday morning the Church was again filled to hear the sacred oratorio of the "Messiah." On the racecourse there was the further attraction of horse-racing in the afternoon, and in the evening a ball took place at the " King's Arms." Oh, the mixture of it ! The illustration on page 241 is a facsimile of the newspaper advertisement, which gives the list of patrons, full programme and the prices for admission. It would seem, however, that the total receipts of £220 were not considered adequate to defray the expenses of the undertaking. COMPOSED BY Mr. HANDEL; A? IT WILL BE PERFORMED IN THE CHURCH OF KENDAL, Thursday, August 30, \"]pt. KENDAL: frRINTEP By W. PfcNNlNGTOJ*, Title Page to the Book of Words. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 243 The second festival, which proved a financial success, was held on the 12th, 13th, and 14th days of September, 1801.' On this occasion there were only three meetings held, the first being at the theatre on Monday evening the 12th, when " A Select Band of Instrumental Performers and the Celebrated Lancashire Catch and Glee Singers " gave a miscellaneous concert ; the second KENDAL GRAND MuslcalFestlral IS FIXED FOP October the 17th, 18th, 19th, & 20th, 1815. CONDUCTORS, Messrs. G. and C. ASHLEY, M \N AG Kits OF raK OHATOrilOS AT>TH£ATOE ROYAL. CQVENT GARDEN Oi, W.ilrn-Kilnj nnd Fndnj Morning, ^will be performed in Uie Parish Church. TWO GIIAND SELECTI01VS OF SMCREB MUSIC, \inl seltci I'.irl* ul i In OrnUino ol CREATION. Requiem, and Mount of Olives. *¦ ( ...I .... 'I'l . I .. \l... . I... Ull'lll.'ll 1 WI 1'PrtDlft _P \m! .in Tln.r-.l.n M..rin.i» Hi.- KACHKl) ORATORIO of THE MESSIAH. mI.h.,,,,,1 IViifiiv Kvriiiiit MISCELLANEOUS CONCERTS IN THE THE A TRE. And on Wednesday Evening a Ball at the King's Arms. For other Pnrlinil»rs*ie reliT Hi.- I'nl.lir l„ lt»- llnnd-Bilk » loih n„<, Im- ¦¦„< I ol* M , .ssi>. M nnd H. Brmillmaile. Mr.Pcnninguin, and Mr. Dowson, booksellers, Kendal ; Mr. lamesShaw. bookseller. I'cnrilli : Mr (' (.lurk. I.ookhdler. I.uiii nsti-r : Mr. A-ildinrm-r, Ulverston ¦ Mr. Allen. Kirkby Lonsdale : and Mr. Bateman, bookseller, Appleby. IIMED "- V UKAVrilWAITK AND CO.. KENDAL Copy of Poster described on Page 244. on Tuesday morning at the Church, when various pieces selected from the oratorios of the " Messiah " and the " Redemption " were given ; and the third again at the theatre on the Wednesday evening. The Lancaster Gazetteer for October 3rd, 1801, records that they " were well attended by a numerous and genteel audience, many of whom came from a considerable distance. The per formances throughout were extremely well received." 244 kirKbIe Kendall. In 1805 the organ was again repaired at an expense of £"350, and a organ " was superadded containing eight stops (560 pipes). choir HUnftal Grand Musical Festival. 1815. SELECT! OF SACRED MUSIC, from the cimpqfiiiom of the moft favorite Avihori— jincient aud Modtni. PERFORMED IN THE CHURCH. Principal Ptrformert. Mr! SALMON, Mils TRAVIS, Mrs. WILDE, Mit RUSSELL, and Mils M. TRAVIS, Mr. BRAHaM, Mr. G ARBEIT, Mr. ROLLE, And Mr. C. SMITH. Leader of the Band, Mr. ASHLEY, Organ, Mr. JACKSON. Second Violin, Mr Challoner, Viola/Mr K.G.Alhley, ' Oboes, Meir Hughes and Scruton, Clarionet, Mr. H'jpkinfon, Violoncello, Mr. C. ]. Atriley, Double Bafs, Mr T Heicher/ Trumpets, Men". Hyde and Hendcrfon, DoublePtums, Mr. Jcnkinfon. tONDON: PatNTED 0TE.MA'JLEIfiH,2,B0W-STBEEt Price One Shilling- Title Page of Book of Words. The author has also in his possession a bill-poster, announcing the last of the Grand Musical Festivals that were held in the Church, for October 17, 18, 19 and 20, 1815, and which is recorded as being "one of the grandest things ever known both in Church and Play House." The price for single tickets at the Church and at the boxes and pit of the theatre was 7s. 6d. each. The gallery 3s. 6d. On the mornings of the 18th and 20th two grand selections from the " Creation," " Requiem," and " Mount of Olives," were performed at the Church, and on the 19th morning was given "The Messiah." On the 17th, 19th and 20th evenings, miscel laneous concerts were given in the Theatre, Woolpack Yard, and on the evening of the 18th a grand ball was given at the " King's Arms." It must not be thought, however, that these festivals in the Church met with unanimous approval from all, ior I have before me some tracts and two bills, which were posted by John Pearson, the minister of the Inghamite Chapel, one on the Parish Church door and the other in Stricklandgate near the theatre. They certainly are very curious reading, but by reason of their sincere earnest ness I desire to respect them. Doubtless these tracts had the effect of putting HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 245 a stop to the continuance ofthe festivals in the Church, for the next meeting of the Harmonic Society, which took place on the 18th of December, 1816, I find was confined to the Theatre Royal. On this occasion "A grand. Selection of Sacred Music chiefly from the compositions of G. F. Handel with instrumental accompaniments " was given under the leadership of Mr. Parrin, organist of Penrith. Mr. Jackson, organist of Kendal, presiding at the pianoforte. Thomas Scarisbrick was appointed organist on 21st December, 1822, a position which he held till his lamented death on February 26th, 1869. In the following March our greatly esteemed William Burton Armstrong, then organist at St. Thomas's, was elected to fill his place. In 1825 an octave of pedal pipes was added (13 pipes), there being no room in the gallery for more than that number. When the old organ gallery was removed in the year 1847, the organ was placed on the floor against the west doors, but at the restoration of 1850 it was entirely remodelled and taken away to the Bellingham Chapel. What is known as the Armstrong organ is an entirely new instrument (by Willis, London), built in the year 1877, and is now situated in the Chambre or St. Thomas-a-Becket's Chapel. When it is remembered that the Churchyard formed at one Stained Glass. time a common playground, that the old Grammar School was adjacent, and that the boys of bygone generations were not much behind the boys of to-day in their stone-throwing propensities, it is not surprising to find that there is little left of the old glass. The oldest bits of stained work still preserved are undoubtedly those small pieces now inserted into the modern windows of the Strickland and Bellingham Chapels. No other glass dates further back than the restoration of 1850-2, when the 16 clerestory windows, the great west window, the two west north-outer-aisle windows, the Baptistry window, the Bellingham Chapel and the Chambre Chapel windows were presented. The west window was the gift of Mr. and Mrs. James Gandy in 1853, in memory of an only son. It beautifully represents in the first compartment the sacrifice of paternal affection, Abraham offering up Isaac; in the second light the sacrifice of maternal affection, Hannah leading up little Samuel to the Temple ; in the third light, Moses directing the people to look up to Christ the 246 KIRKBIE KENDALL. healer of every sorrow ; the fourth light, Samuel anointing David ; and the fifth light the hope of death, Elisha raising the Shunamite's son to life. In 1854 unfortunately permission was given to remove the new and beautiful 1850 green glass of the east window for the insertion of the present stained glass, which is not all that it should be for such a prominent position. In 1863 the west north-inner-aisle window was erected to the memory of Vicar Barnes. The centre compartment represents the resurrection of our Lord ; that on the left St. Paul preaching at Athens, pointing to our Lord with one hand, and with the other to the idolatrous Athenian temples ; and that on the right is intended to be a conventional resemblance of the deceased vicar performing the burial service, with Kendal Church in its unrestored condition in the background. During the same year Mr. Strickland inserted in the centre compartment of the window to the St. Catherine Chapel a coat of arms of his ancient family. From the shield, it will be noticed, hang some purse strings, in allusion to the fact that Sir Thomas Strickland was keeper ofthe privy purse to Catherine of Braganza, the unhappy wife of the " Merry Monarch." The original badge of office, a beautiful purse formed of crimson velvet, richly embroidered with the Royal Arms and the initials C. R. in gold and silver, is still preserved at the Castle. The crowned head was inserted in one of the cusps on September 22nd, 1868. The second westerly window in the south aisle is in memory of John Yeates (first mayor to the reformed Corporation) and Margaret his wife. In the left hand compartment is depicted the angel appearing unto Cornelius, with the arms of the Brettargh family above, and the Aigburth family below. In the right hand light is depicted the Centurian beseeching Christ to come and heal his servant, with the arms of the Toxteth family above and the Ives family below. The central compartment contains three shields. The upper one bearing the arms of Yeates ; the centre one the arms 1 and 6 Yeates, 2 Brettargh, 3 Toxteth, 4 Aigburth, 5 Ives ; and the lower one the arms of Mrs. Yeates quarterly in an escutcheon of pretence. The Chambre window was removed in 1877 to its present position, the most westerly of the south aisle, when the new organ was erected in the Chambre Chapel. The masonry, however, was found to be seven inches too HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 247 short for the glass, and upon a close inspection it is just possible to see where the glass was cut across at the level ofthe shields and where the old ribbons, which once entwined the shields, were cut away. The window erected to the memory of Edward Sinkinson in the south aisle is undoubtedly the best example of stained glass that the Church can boast of. There are three altar tombs — one in each of the three Monuments. remaining chapels — and each one is of considerable interest. The Strickland tomb is of sandstone, with a dark marble top, without any inscription or date ; but is probably of the XIVth or XVth Century. It carries two shields, bearing the arms of Strickland, Deincourt, and Neville — viz., 1 and 3, a fesse dancette between ten billets, for Deincourt ; 2 and 4, three escalop shells, two and one, for Strickland ; and the same impaling a saltier, with a mullet pierced, for Neville. The Parr tomb is of unpolished black marble, likewise without any inscription ; but doubtless the remains of Sir William Parr, K.G. (grandfather of Catherine Parr), are buried here, as well as other members of the family. On the north side are shields bearing the arms of Parr, Brus, Fitzhugh, and Roos — 1, those of Parr (two barulets), quartered with Roos (three water bougets, two and one) ; 2, Brus (vaire, one bar) ; 3, Fitzhugh (three chevrons interlaced). On the east end are all the preceding arms quartered — viz., 1 and 4, Parr, quartered with Roos (the former without the bordure) ; 2, Parr, quartered with Fitzhugh ; 3, Roos, quartered with Brus, and encircled with the garter. The Bellingham tomb is to Sir Roger Bellingham, and has inlaid several modern brass plates, including two effigies and four escutcheons. Upon a separate plate is a restored inscription taken from the History of Richmondshire. The original brasses were lost generations ago ; but Mr. John Broadbent, a descendant of the Bellinghams, refilled the matrix in 1863. William Garside, of this town, engraved the effigies of Sir Roger and Margaret his wife to precisely the same shape and size as the old ones. " Their hands are folded on their breast ; There is no other thing expressed, Than long disquiet merged in rest." 248 KIRKBIE KEN DA L L . The tomb originally stood upon the south side of the chapel, as can be seen from the rough unfinished edges of the top stone, and the two freestone shields once lost, but fortunately again discovered in 1862 in the Unitarian Burial Ground, were originally fixed upon the north or left side. They bear the following arms quartered : — 1, A bugle horn, stringed, being the original arms of De Bellingchamp, who came over with the Conqueror ; 2 and 3, three bendlets on a canton, a lion rampant, for Burneshead ; 4, three bugle horns, stringed, two and one, for the Sussex branch of the Bellingham family. There is also in the Strickland Chapel, under a raised canopy of black marble, the figure of a boy in alabaster, dressed in a loose gown, the features much defaced and cut all over. Around the base runs a chevron like ornament, with the initials "W. S. " and the date 1656 raised in sunk panels at the end. Around the margin of the tablet is inlaid a border of white marble, on which is inscribed : — " This pvre refined strvctvre does containe Natvres compleatest peece where every graine waits for a gloriovs vnion and appears shrin'd in parentall sighs and marble teares." In the same chapel there is a solid marble urn, in memory of Captain William Philip Strickland, who died at St. Domingo in 1795. It was discovered a few years ago in a barn at Standish, and brought here to be placed with the other family monuments. Mrs. Frances Strickland, whose grave is near by — the brass being pre served in the Bellingham Chapel — was born, married, and buried on the 24th June, 1690, 1708, and 1725 respectively : — " Emblem of Temporal Good ! The Day that gave Her Birth and Marriage, saw her in the Grave ; Wing'd with its native Love, her soul took flight To Boundless Regions of Eternal Light." HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 249 Just outside the doorway lie the remains of Thomas West, author of the Antiquities of Furness. He died at Sizergh Castle on the ioth of July, 1779, aged 62 ; and it is remarkable that no sort of inscription marks his stone. 5je« Ijetlr IIje IrotijK of JUait lElltttglj'm dsiruwr, farjti margED fflailjErjjatt ftauigljtEr 0f jlttilrtmgE gurkii f&ssrxaet irf inlinme |je frs& no ffiljilorEit altzt itiljoaE oeiebbe Ije margin garutlyiE &iatglji£r of %ijamas J^anfora (EsipriEr af farrjnm Ije (jail sis Bottnea & Etjljt Jruajr/tEra, uf toljtrlj 5 BonttEs & 7 4s«0ijiErB iniilr jje aaiir gorailjiE ar gear. X^faing He teas iljrE BrnrE & ons garrE of agE aito ogEir je 7 of $.. m. 1577 (3111.) I L In the Bellingham Chapel there are several interesting brass plates, which were collected together at the restoration of 1850-2, and especially this one : — " To the memory of the Most Religious and Orthodox Christian, The most Loyall Subject and most ancient &, Serviceable Member of this Corporation whereof, He was once Alderman and thrice Maior, WILLIAM GUY of Water-Crook Gentleman, who dyed the fOur Lord MDCLXXXIII twenty-fifth day of December, in the Year of -I . (His Age LXXXVI _?5o KIRKBIE KENDALL. " Had Loyalty been Life, Brave Guy thou'd'st Than Stood Kendall's Everlasting Alderman Nay could the joynte force of All That's good or vert'ous over death prevaile Thy life's pure thre'd noe Time or Fate could sever And thou'dst still Livd'd to pray; KING live for Ever. But Thou art gone ; A Proof such Vertue is Too Good for Earth, and onely fit for Bliss, And Blissful Seats: Where, If blesst Spirits doe Concerne themselves with anything below. Thy pray'rs the same, Thou still do'st Supplicate For Charles His Life, For England's Church and State Whil'st to Thy just Eternal Memory Envy and Malice must in this Agree None better Lov'd, or Serv'd his Prince than Thee." Another brass is to Alice, the wife of Roger Bateman, who died the 25th day of March, 1637, aged 26 : — " Shall we entrust a graue with such a guest Or thus confine her to a marble chist Who though the Indies met in one small roome Th'are short in treasure of this pretious tombe, Well borne, & bred, brought vp in feare & care Marriage which makes vp women, made her rare Matron & maide with all choyse virtues grac'st Loueing & lou'd of all, a soule so chast, N'er rigged for heauen, with whome none dare Venture their States with her in bllisse to share She liueing virtue's pattern, the poores releife Her husbands chiefest Joy, now dead his greife." Against the wall is a beautiful mural tablet of white and dove-coloured marble in memory of Zachary Hubbersty, the sculptured group of figures representing his widow and six children mourning their loss. It is impossible to imagine anything which conveys a more natural picture of the poignant grief than this group exhibits. The widow is in a recumbent position, surrounded by her offspring ; and the figure of an angel is seen pointing upwards, as if bestowing sublime consolation to the widow and fatherless. The drapery is managed in the most masterly style, and the whole is one of the choicest bits executed by the late J. Flaxman, R.A. (1755-1826). One of HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 251 the children— Mary— afterwards married Richard Chambers, and became the mother of the celebrated Ephraim Chambers of Encyclopedia renown. One of the best known and most sought of the memorials in the Church is that on a brass plate within the communion rails to "Mr. Ravlph Tirer, late Vicar of Kendall, Batchler of Divinity, who died the 4th day of Ivne, Ano : Dni: 1627":— " London bredd me, Westminster fedd me, Cambridge sped me, my Sister wed me,* Study taught me, Liuing sought me, Learning brought me, Kendal caught me. Labour pressed me, sicknes distressed me, Death oppressed me, and graue possessed me, God first gaue me, Christ did saue me, Earth did crave me, and heauen would haue me" In the south aisle there is a handsome monument of black marble con taining the following tribute to the genius of Romney : — " To the Memory of GEORGE ROMNEY ESQUIRE, the Celebrated Painter; who died at Kendal, the 15. Nov. 1802, in the 68. year of his age, and was interred at Dalton the place of his birth. So long as Genius and Talents shall be respected his Fame will live." At the west end of the north aisle there is a monument of white marble in memory of the men of the 55th Regiment, who were either killed or died from disease during the war with Russia, in Turkey, and the Crimea, in the years 1854 an about 2>500 persons. The Kendal register contains entries of numerous burials in the year 1597, some of the 258 KIRKBIE KENDALL. " On Parish Days the Ringers shall appear When they the tolling of the Bells do hear ; All absentees for every peal that's past, In twopence fine most surely will be cast. "And 'tis agreed that on such Parish Days, The Seventh Bell's warning shall the absent raise Within one quarter of an hour, if not, No more's allowed, and equal fine's his lot. " Whoe'er presumes a Bell to pull off here Without consent, or does get drunk or swear, Sixpence for each offence he sure shall stake, Ere he his peace with us for it shall make ; Likewise he fourpence pays, besides all that, Who here appears with either spurs or hat. " The youth who to the Ringing Art's inclined, Shall ever with us hearty welcome find, If he with us the Jolly Boy reveres, Who sometimes soothes and mitigates our cares. " No Miser here with us can claim a part, Nor be companion in our noble art, Which nurtures health, of life the chiefest bliss, With which the world compared a bauble is. " He who to pay these forfeits is not free, If yearly Ringer or a Deputy, It is resolved the fine from wages due, Shall be deducted with exactness true. " And furthermore, if anyone beside, Refuse by these our orders to abide, From out the Belfry he shall be expelled, And as an alien evermore be held.'' On the 18th of June, 1816, two treble bells, each weighing about 7cwt., were added on the anniversary and " in commemoration of the glorious achievements of Lord Nelson and His Grace the Duke of Wellington, who with Divine assistance, gave peace to surrounding Nations and to this favoured Isle." The inscription on one reads : — " We'll sing their praise, and join in glorious harmony this noble peal." They arrived by canal, on the 30th of December, were hung the next day, and ushered in the New Year of 1817, at HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 261 1291 — ... 1306 — Walter de Madestan the other — Ecclesia de ¦ Kyrkeby Kindale Divisa Est, Pars Willelmi £"66.13.4. Pars Walteri £66. 13.6. Reference is made to him in the Patent Rolls 23 Edw. I, (1295) and described as " parson of a moiety of the Church of Kirkeby in Kendale." He was a noted pluralist, of no great reputation, consecrated Bp. of Worcester in 1313 and died abroad in 1317. VICARS. 13 12 — — Roger de Kirkby. It appears that Kendal was not appropriated to St. Mary's York, till after 30 Edw. I. (1303). In that case Roger was the first vicar. He was witness to an exchange of lands at Sizergh in this year. 1352 — ... 1366 — Thomas de Leynesbury. He occurs in 1352 as vicar, with permission to study at a University. He was a trustee of certain lands granted by Sir Thomas de Strickland, Knight, in 1366. Doubtless there was a Vicar between Leynesbury and Greenwode, of whom we have no record. — May, 1421 — Thomas Greenwode. On the 20th of June, 1396, Archbishop Scrope gave Green wode, then only an acolyte, letters dimissory that he might be ordained. In 1409 he was instituted to the Rectory of Ousebridge, York. This he gave up in 1413, when he became Vicar of Kirkby Stephen. On the 5th of March, 1415, he was made Vicar-general by Archbishop Bowet. At the time of his death he was Canon of York and Lincoln, and Vicar of Kendal. He died on the 2nd of May, 1421, and was buried in York Minster. June, 1421 — ... 1439 — Richard Garsdale. He was a trustee in a settlement ofthe Sizergh Estate in the year 1432. July, 1439— — John Bryan. 1495 — — William, Abbot of St. Mary's, York. He granted a lease of part of the tithes to Sir Thomas Strickland in this year, 262 KIRKBIE KENDALL. 1520 — ... 1534 — Thomas Maynes. Letters patent granted by Edw. VI. For a short period the patronage of the Church lapsed to the Crown, by whom two presentations were made, viz., James Pilkington, B.D., and Nicholas Asheton. Dec, 1550 — ... 1551 — James Pilkington, B.D. He was born in 1520. At the age of sixteen he was admitted a member of St. John's College, Cambridge, where he pro ceeded to the degree of A.B. in 1539, and was elected a Fellow in the same year. He afterwards took the degrees of A.M. in 1542 and B.D. in 1550, in which latter year he was presented by Edward VI. to this living, as the first Protestant vicar. In the reign of Queen Mary he was obliged to fly (1554) from England ; he returned in March, 1558, and was appointed a commissioner to revise the Book of Common Prayer. In July, 1559, he was admitted Master of St. John's College and Regius Professor of Divinity. At the age of 40 he was elected the fiist Protestant Bishop of Durham on February 20th, 1561. He died at Bishop Auckland, January 23rd, 1575, aged 55, and was buried in Durham Cathedral, " with as_ few popish ceremonies as may be, or vain cost.'' Dec, 1551 — — Nicholas Asheton. Presented by Edw. VI. 1562 — July, 1591— Ambrose Hetherington, D.D. 1591 — — Samuel Heron, D.D. Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. He took an "ad eundem " D.D. degree at Oxford in 1598 to qualify himself for a Crown living restricted to Oxford graduates, and died in 1615. 1592 — June, 1627 — Ralph Tirer, B.D. He was buried within the communion rails at Kendal Church, under a very thick stone, which was removed somewhat to the north at the restoration of 1850. On the stone is a brass plate containing his well-known epitaph. 1627 — ... 1640 — Francis Gardener, B.D. Dec, 1640 — ... 1645 — Henry Hall, B.D. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 263 Mar., 1646 — — Henry Masey, M.A. Note. — The author of Brand's History of Newcastle, writes: — " March 25, 1652, Mr. William Cole settled at St. John's, Newcastle, to preach forenoon and afternoon, with a salary of £150 per annum. He was minister of Kirkby Kendal in Westmorland." May, 1656 — — John Strickland, B.D. In the civil wars he took the covenant, and preached before the Long Parliament. He became assistant to the com missioners for ejecting insufficient ministers and school masters in 1654. In 1662 he was ejected for refusing to conform to the Church of England. He died in 1670. Jan., 1660 — ... 1673 — William Brownsword, M.A. On November 24, 1645, he was admitted a pensioner of - Emanuel College, Cambridge. He was B.A. in 1645 and M.A. in 1649. In 1648 he is described as " Preacher at Dugglas," Douglas being a chapelry in the parish of Eccleston, Lancashire. In accordance with the Church Survey Act of 1650 the com missioners return him as " cure of Douglas Chapel, a godlie painfull Minister, but he did not (being dissatisfied with the usurped powers) observe the 13th day of this instant month (June) appointed by Act of Parliament to be kept as a day of humiliation, and had notice of it by the Constable." From Douglas he removed to Preston (1654). In 1658 he was presented by Trinity College, Cambridge, to the Vicarage of Kendal, which position he filled till 1673. He had the freedom of the borough granted to him November 6, 1662. His contiguity to the scenes of the labour of George Fox, and the early Quakers led him to write: — "The Quaker- Jesuit, or Popery in Quakerism, with a Serious Admonition to the Quakers to consider their ways and return from whence they are fallen." London 1660. Small 4to., 16 pp. A quaker, " Robert Barrow prisoner in the comon Goale in Kendall for not paying vnto William Brownesword preist of Kendall his Easter Reckonings," accused the Vicar in some 264 KIRKBIE KENDALL. doggerel lines for abusing him " in pullpitt, private and and abroad." — See Kendal Mercury for July 25th. 1863. He also wrote " England's Grounds of Joy in His Majesty's Return to his Throne and People." London 1660. 4to., 28 pp. Nov., 1673 — — Richard Tatham, M.A. He appears not to have been instituted for on the 22nd November, 1673, there is a conclusion: — "Agreed by the Master and seniors that Mr. Loup have a presentation to the Vicaridge of Kendal." Apparently the living lapsed to the Bishop, who appointed Michael Stanford. 1674 — Mar., 1683 — Michael Stanford, M.A. Fellow of Christ's College, Cambridge, 1659 — 1673. He died March 3, 1683, aged 47. 1683 — April, 1699 — Thomas Murgatroyd, M.A. We find no record of Mr. Murgatroyd, except that of his burial under date of the 17th of April, 1699, 'n the Parish Register, which runs thus : — " Mr. Tho. Murgatroyd, Vichar of Kendall." June, 1699 — Dec, 1733 — William Crosby, M.A. Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, in 1690. A man entirely given up and married to the Church, and was truly in every respect an " Eunuch for the Kingdom of Heaven's Sake." He was "sworne" freeman of the borough January 21, 1700. He died at the age of 70 years. The foot of his grave is close to the front of the Communion Table. The Rev. Tobias Croft, his curate, preached the funeral sermon. The following is a copy of a letter sent by the Corporation to Trinity College : — " Kendall December 10th, 1733. Reverd. Sirs, Wee being now come from performing our last & very sorrowfull office to our late Deceased and reverd. pastor Mr. Crosby, do in behalf of ourselves and the numerous inhabitants of this place & extensive parish, take this oppor tunity of expressing our Gratefull acknowledgement of the College's presentation of the last vicar, who was one of the most eminent ornaments ofthe Church in & out ofthe pulpitt that has appeared in these parts within our remembrance, & wee hope that upon consideration of our ensuing representa- HOLY TRINITY CHURCH. 265 tion ofthe cure it will be accepted by some Distinguished person of your body, the benefice being in our opinion one hundred & thirty pound per annum & upwards, clear of all known reprises, the vicarage house & outhouses, being all very fine & in a manner new, which cost the deceased several hundred pounds, and although there are twelve or thirteen chappells of ease in the parish, yett curates thereof are no burthen to the vicar no more than is the curate resident, between which last & the vicar, the office & duty are equally divided & though the first-fruits are very high, yett every new Incumbent will find some Ease therein by a Legacy of sixty pounds from the last incumbt. so as every Incumbent give security for his Exor. to pay the principal to succeeder. Whereby & by a legacy of his well chosen modern Library for benefitt of succrs. the late vicar will be a double benefactor to every of them & they therefore need not bring from Cambridge any of the books of which this appropriated library consisteth. Wee may add to the above that a handsome court & a fine garden on side of a large river, join the vicaridge & that this place is situated in an healthfull air & plentifull country and accomodated with a cheap market for fish & flesh, & a good publick school, all which is earnestly submitted to your best consideration by Reverend Srs. yor. very Servts. etc., etc. P.S. A lott of pritty Tapistry & hangings in the Dining room is to continue in it. Dec, 1733 — Nov., 1744 — Richard Cuthbert, M.A. Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. He died on the 7th November, 1744, aged 48, and was buried in the eastern portion of the Churchyard. Jan., 1745 — Feb., 1789 — Thomas Symonds, D.D. Hewas born July 28th, 1709; deacon, 1732; priest, 1733; Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, in 1736. He died February 7th, 1789, aged 79, and was buried within the Communion rails. Note.— The Newcastle Chronicle for March, 21, 1789, says:— " The Rev. Richard Kirshaw is preferred to the Vicarage of Kendal in the County of Westmorland." 266 KIRKBIE KENDALL. July, 1789 — Feb., 1806 — Henry Robinson, M.A. Born 1748. Fe'low of Queen's College, Cambridge. He died 25th February, 1806, aged 58. In the Churchyard is a flat stone over his grave simply containing his initials and date — " H. R., 1806." April, 1806 — Nov., 1814 — Matthew Murfitt, M.A. A.B. in 1783, and A.M. in 1786. Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. He died aged 50. 1815 — Oct., 1843 — John Hudson, M.A. A native of Beetham, he went to Heversham School. He left it for Trinity College, Cambridge, in the year 1793. On taking his degree in the year 1797, he was declared Senior Wrangler, and was elected a Fellow of the College the following year. At the age of 30 he was elected a Tutor. Thenceforward " he commenced a career, prosperous and brilliant beyond example." Amongst his scholars was Dr. Blomfield, Bishop of Chester and of London. He died aged 70. He was interred within the Church near the Parr Chapel, but the stone was removed somewhat more to the south during the restoration of 1850. April, 1844 — May, 1858 — Joseph Watkins Barnes, M.A. He was born in 1806; died May, 1858, aged 51; and was interred in the New Cemeteiy. Aug., 1858 — Jan., 1896 — John Cooper, M.A- Trinity College, Cambridge. B.A. (Wrangler and 1st Class Classical Tripos) in 1835, M.A. in 1838, deacon in 1837, priest in 1838, Vicar of Kendal in 1858, hon. Canon of Carlisle in 1861, Archdeacon of Westmorland in 1865. Formerly Fellow of Trinity, 1837-1859 ; Vicar of St. Andrews the Great, Cambridge, 1843-1858; Tutor of Trinity, 1845-1855 ; Senior Dean, 1855-1858. April, 1896 — — William Robert Trench, LL.M. Trinity College, Cambridge. LL.B. (2nd Class Law Tripos) in 1861, LL.M. in 1870, deacon in 1859, priest in 1871, hon. Canon of Chester in 1876. VI. Stricklandgate, OR The Horth Road. The " geat " or drift road, along which the young cattle were driven to the township " stirk-lands," where they pastured in common upon the unenclosed land, novr known as Strickland Ketel and Strickland Roger. 269 STRICKLANDGATE, OR THE NORTH ROAD. THE commanding building which stands at the junction of Highgate and Stricklandgate, with its oriel window looking down to the once confined entrances into Finkle Street, was known in the coaching days as the famous " Crown Inn." Across the street swung a sign representing a Royal Crown in gilded colouring. The first notes that I can discover about it are, that in 1797 the Providential Benefit Society held its meetings here, that in 1798 James and Ann Jackson were " mine hosts," and that in 1806 their lease was renewed. Here was the booking office for the light coaches run in opposition to the Royal Mail. They left at eight o'clock in the morning, three days a week, for Appleby, Orton, Temple Sowerby, Penrith, and Carlisle, being run in connec tion with the " Lord Wellington " post coach, that made the journey between Carlisle and Glasgow in fourteen hours. In July, 1824, there is a record of the landlord (Howard) opening " a neat little theatre " in one of the rooms ; and again, in June, 1826, I find that the new landlord (Bowman) continued the play-house. The inn was kept by a Mrs. Walker, in 1868, in which year it was closed as a public-house. The chemist's shop next door was at one time owned by Joseph No. 4. Simpson, a woollen draper, who was elected a burgess in 1764. Notice the excellent perspective view of the yard adjoining. The old dormer gablet and iron gutters, that row of flanking chimneys, the diminishing width of lane sloping upward, and the Serpentine Hill in the background. See it in the early morning with the sunshine upon the sloping hill, throwing up in dark sombre relief each chimney and every little detail, and say if it is not the quaintest glint in Kendal. _ This commodious shop used formerly to be divided into two smaller No. 8. ones — a bookseller's to the left and a shoemaker's shop with a door way up the entry to the right. The earliest occupant of the bookseller's shop that I can find was Alderman William Pennington, printer and bookseller, who 270 KIRKBIE KENDALL. died here in 1815, having removed from his old shop beneath the " Rose and Crown " in 1800. He was succeeded by Messrs. Airey & Bellingham, book sellers, and from hence emanated the first number of the Westmorland Gazette and Kendal Advertizer on May 23rd, 1818. On May 3rd, 1828, George Harrison Gardener leased the premises to John Jackson, of the " King's Arms Inn," for fourteen years, who sublet it to Thomas Richardson, the publisher of fhe Westmorland Journal of Useful Knowledge. This paper was printed in quarto on a sheet of foolscap, and its columns aimed at being entirely free from all sectarian and political bias, but filled with "useful information — moral, literary, scientific, and amusing." The first number was issued on the ist June, 1833, and subsequently on every Saturday, at the price of three halfpence. Thomas Richardson seems to have assigned the premises to Joseph Dawson, bookseller, who on the 12th July, 1842, obtained a further lease for another fourteen years. After a short time Dawson enlarged his premises by taking possession of the adjoining shoe maker's shop, and throwing the two together he commenced the business of selling music and musical instruments. At his death in 1857 his nephew, William Fisher, entered upon possession, and subsequently his son Richard. In 1896 Mr. Douglas became the lessee. As regards the shoemaker's shop, we know but little about it beyond that at one time it was occupied by John Bragg, who married Miss Wilson of High Wray, to whom Thomas Atkinson succeeded; and, upon his crossing the street, Robert B. Hunter, saddler, entered in. Redman's Yard A buildinS UP tnis yara"> now occupied by Braithwaite's cycling works, used formerly to be Dawson's printing office ; and here in earlier days Alderman Christopher Redman (Mayor 1749 and 1760) had his cabinetmaker's shop. Redman had business relations with " Honest John Romney,"* a cabinet maker at Beckside, Dalton. Romney's son, the celebrated painter, was born on the 15th day of December, 1734, and when old enough was sent to school. His progress being slow, his father thought it waste of money to continue the expense of his studies, and so he placed the boy, then at the age of eleven years, * The correct spelling- ofthe family name was Rumney, which form " Honest John " always used, and young George used when signing his indentures. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 271 in his own workshop. With a joiner's pencil young Romney seems always to have been drawing the sign-board of the " Red Lion Inn," which hung out before him, or else copying some picture in a monthly illustrated paper. The first incident, it is said, that led Romney to an earnest cultivation of drawing was when having observed a great singularity in the countenance of a stranger in church, and being desired to describe the person, he took a pencil and delineated the features with such strength and resemblance as to not only delight his friends but also to excite him to a more serious ap plication of the art. His next encourage ment came when one day Redman's sister, a Mrs. Gardener — who, by the way> was the mother of Daniel Gardener, the emi nent crayon draughts man, another Kendal worthy — was on a visit to " Honest John." Noticing how apt the lad was with his pencil, she asked him to take her portrait, and the result was so pleasing that she at once in terceded with his father to let painting be his sole pursuit and profession. Thus was he bound, at the age of 21, as an apprentice to an intinerant painter named Christopher Steele, residing temporarily here in this yard. 272 KIRKBIE KENDALL. (Ted mans 11 Yard With Steele young Romney went on periodical visits to the principal towns in the neigh bouring counties, and it was whilst paying a visit to York in 1755 that his excellent work attracted the attention of Law rence Sterne, Vicar of Stretton, then at the height of his popu larity, who afterwards interested himself on Romney's behalf, and obtained for him several commissions from persons of considerable influence. T h e praise of Sterne was a passport that lifted him into celebrity at once. George then fell ill with a fever, was nursed by a domestic servant named Mary Abbot, the two young people fell in love with each other, and rather than be separated during Steele's periodical rambles they resolved to get married, which they did on October 14th, 1756. Two years later, at the age of 24, he left Steele, returned to Kendal, commenced business as a por trait painter on his own account, and was at once in demand, though he had only studied a little over two years. Romney's initial production was a sign for the Post Office, a hand holding a letter ; and his two first STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 273 portraits of importance were half-length pictures of Walter Strickland and his wife. Colonel George Wilson introduced the artist to the Strickland family at Sizergh, where he also had the advantage of copying a few pictures of other masters. When he had sufficient pictures to form a little collection he raffled them in the Town Hall for ten and sixpence a ticket. Yearning for a larger field for his labour, and with the full consent of his wife, the two young people shared their savings of £100, and taking £50 he bid adieu to wife, son and daughter, and set off alone to seek his fortune in London. On the 14th March, 1762, he thus set up his easel in Dove Court, close by the Mansion House. Reynolds was at that time at the meridian of his fame, notwithstanding which, Rom ney soon proved a rival so powerful, that it was said " he divided the empire with Sir Joshua." Writing of him at this time, Richard Cumberland says : — " Romney, shy, private, studious, and contemplative, conscious of all the disadvantages of a stinted education, of a habit naturally hypochondriac, with aspen nerves that every breath could ruffle, was at once in art the rival, and in nature the very contrast of Sir Joshua." In 1764 he visited Paris to study Rubens, revisited Kendal and Lancaster in 1767, executed many paintings, and then in 1773 he journeyed to Rome. In two years he returned again to his popular studios in London, where he remained, till failing in health he came back again to Kendal, and died on November the 15th, 1802. The characteristic merit of his works consists in poetic dignity of conception, wherein Flaxman said he was the first of all English painters, and in the harmony and brilliancy of his colouring. Again Redman's Yard is celebrated for the birth of the portrait painter, Thomas Stewardson, in 1781, the son of a dogger, who was apprenticed to Jack Fothergill, a noted sign-board painter, up the "Elephant Inn" Yard. Barely 20 years of age he removed to London, was kindly taken in hand by Romney, ^^5S*"»ItfR8*> GEORGE ROMHEY. 274 KIRKBIE KENDALL. and in 1804 he exhibited for the first time at the Royal Academy, became portrait painter to George IV. and Queen Caroline, and finally died in August, 1859. This house is first known as the tea dealer's shop, occupied by one No 1 2 Fallows, who was succeeded in the same trade by William Richard son in 1823. Joseph Barrow followed, and after one or two more tenants it ultimately passed to Mr. Douglas in 1852. What a host of associations are conjured up by the one King's Arms Inn. T ... r word " inn." How they come crowding upon us trom all sources, coaching houses and ancient hostelries, with the thousand and one memories of the famous men who have frequented them. In the earlier days, when communication between different parts of the country was difficult, and travellers were few, it is probable that there existed no great number of houses of entertainment. The hospitality of the abbey, and that of the neighbouring castle, sufficed in most cases for the needs of the times, o'r at least so far as the rural districts were concerned. But gradually as commerce and general inter-communication increased, there sprung up inns which laid themselves out for the reception of those who journeyed abroad ; merchants, pilgrims, and persons of no fixed abode. Hither came also all that motley assemblage who were from time to time allowed within its precincts; morris-dancers,* mummers, jugglers, musicians, and ballad-singers, all hopeful of gathering largesse from the guests. For travellers and pilgrims in olden times were not a doleful folk. On the contrary, most endeavoured to make their journeys as agreeable, and as much like a holiday, as possible. Since the decadence of' the "White Lion," this inn has been the town's principal hostelrie, an inn whose history is inseparably connected with many of Kendal's most important events, and whose landlords have so frequently taken the mayoralty chair. The date of its erection is not known, but its external facade and picturesque interior seem to have been but little altered. The house is well described by the author of A Fortnight's Ramble as being "a large, old, straggling inn, with two galleries leading to the bedrooms," and, says he, * Says Dr. Johnson :—" The Morris-dance, in which bells are jingled, or staves or swords clashed, was learned from the Moors, and was probably a kind of Pyrrhic, or military dance." STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. *75 " I would advise you to make a cross to know which to go by." Or again, by the author of The Strange Adventures of a Phaton, who speaks ofthe laughter that shook the coffee room. A curious feature of the coffee rooms of to-day. As a posting house, there is none of the stir now, in these days of railway and electric transmission of news, as was created by the dashing up of the " Royal Mail," with its fine team of greys, its smart guard, and bluff-weather- beaten " whip," to say nothing of the fluttering of dripping waterproofs, the pulling asunder of soaked plaids, and the drying of wet and gleaming cheeks that were red with the rain. And within there is now none of that bustle, such The King's Arms, .by Stirzaker. as used to be, when a thousand servants seemed to be scampering about to assist and prepare a steaming and fragrant banquet by the time that warmer and dryer clothes could be put on. Oh, it was a commotion and a welcome indeed to arrive in those days at this big, warm, comfortable, old-fashioned inn, and a succulent supper worth remembering, with that appetite whetted by a long ride in moorland air, and flavoured with the agreeable recollection of past perils safely surmounted. The author has in his possession an oil-colour painting by Richard Stirzaker, made in 1823, representing the "Telegraph coach," standing 276 KIRKBIE KENDALL. before the inn laden with luggage and passengers. On its sides are the names of the towns to which it runs, viz. : — -Carlisle, Lancaster, Preston, Bolton, Manchester, and Liverpool; and what an animated scene it reveals with "mine hostess," Mrs. Jackson, standing in the entry talking to Arthur Shepherd, and with many local characters, such as Jack Towers, Father Saul, Fitty Jimmy at the stationer's door, Old Fratch, John Gobies, Abbie Jingler, Beggy Ning- nang, Billy Toy leading a broken-down horse, and Chas. Docker, stay and corset maker, standing talking to Wm. Richardson, tea dealer; whilst up above almost all the windows are thrown wide open for those within to wave adieu as the horses spring up to the collars at the word " Let 'em gah, mi lads, an' luk oot fer yersels." The first stage coach from London to this inn arrived in 1763, twice a week, drawn by six horses, and was called the "flying machine," I suppose, as it ran at the marvellous rate of six miles an hour. LIVERPOOLE and KENDAL STAGE COACH, 1768. REMOV'D from the WHITE LION, in KENDAL, to the KINGS's ARMS, fets out from thence every Friday Morning, at Four o'CIock ; lies at the Bear's Paw, at Wigan, and arrives at the Black Horfe and Rainbow, in the High Street, Liver- poole next Day, at Noon ; fets out from thence every Monday at Noon, lies at Wigan, and arrives at the King's Arms, in Kendal, every Tuefday Evening. N.B. Any Perfon who has Occafion to go to Lanca fter, Prefton, Wigan, Warrington, Manchefcer, &c, or Parts adjacent, may beconvey'd, by applying to the a- bove King's Arms, in Kendal, which will certainly and regularly fet out at the Time mention'd. From the Cumberland Pacquet for May n, 1775, I extract the following : — LONDON TO KENDAL FLYING MACHINE IN THREE DAYS. " Whereas it has been repre sented to the proprietors of the said machine, by several of the inhabitants in and about Ken dal, that the said Machine not coming to Kendal as usual, has subjected the said inhabitants to several inconveniences, also appointments and losses, therefore the said proprietors, being willing to do the utmost in their power to remove such com plaints, and depending upon the encouragement of the public in general, have agreed that a Machine of a new construction, on steel springs, shall begin to set out on Tuesday, the 9th of May, 1775, and continue to go from Mr. Petty's, the " King's Arms Inn," Kendal, every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thurs day evening, about eleven o'clock, to carry three inside passengers, two of COPY OF ADVERTISEMENT IN 1768. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 277 which may be insured seats at Kendal for London, and two more insured at Lancaster, where they take the Stage Coach which carries six inside, and the other seats are reserved for passengers from Liverpool who meet this Coach at Warrington. £ s. D. s. D. Kendal to London 3 0 0 Kendal to Lancaster 5 0 Lancaster to do. 2 15 0 Lancaster to Preston 5 0 Preston to do. 2 IO 0 Preston to Wigan 4- 0 Wigan to do. 2 8 0 Wigan to Warrington 3 0 Outsiders and children on lap, half price ; each inside to be allowed 20 lbs. weight of luggage, outsiders 10 lbs., all above to pay 4d. per pound from Kendal to London, and in proportion the rest of the road. N.B.^ — A Stage Coach which goes between Liverpool and Preston, by way of Ormskirk, meets the above Machine at Preston, both in coming up and going down." How nervous the good folk were of passing near London after dark is well shewn by the following note: — This "machine" will arrive at the far end early in the day in time for a good dinner, and it will be accompanied by a strong guard at the starting out so as to allay all fear. Then in the Cumberland Pacquet for 1781, we find frequent advertisements such as this : — " Cheap and Expeditious Travelling. A Coach or Diligence from Preston to Kendal, Fare n shillings — Sets out from the "Black Bull Inn," Preston, on Monday morning, the 23rd of July, 1781, and will continue to run from the same Inn every Day (Sundays excepted) at five o'clock in the Morning ; Breakfast at the King's Arms, Lancaster ; arrives at Kendal at one o'clock, and returns the same Evening to Preston. This Coach is timed to meet the Glasgow Diligence on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, which arrives in Kendal at one o'clock, Dines and proceeds to Carlisle the same evening, and the Day following arrives at Glasgow." I have beside me a handbill dated from Kendal, May 12th, 1794, setting forth the " Kendal, Lancaster, and Preston FLYING STAGE WAGONS " which left the "White Horse Inn," London, every Tuesday and Friday, by way of Lichfield, Warrington and Wigan. How long they took to accom plish the journey I do not know, but the circular goes on to say that the wagons arrive at Wigan, Chorley, and Preston every Monday and Thursday ; 278 KIRKBIE KENDALL. CHEAP and EXPEDITIOUS FROM TRAVELLING Kendal to London, In THREE DAYS By way of Kirkby-Lonfdale, Settle, Skipton, Keighley, Ha lifax, Huddersfield, Pennifton, Sheffield, Chefterfield, Mansfield, Nottingham, Leicefter, Northampton, &c. A DILIGENCE SETS out from Mr. PETTY'S, the King's Arms in Ken dal, on Wednefday the 20th of June, 17S1, at Four o'CIock in the Morning, and will continue to go every Mon day, Wednefday, and Friday, at the fame Hour. Refts the firft Night at Mr. Murgatroyd's, the White-Lion, Halifax, where three Seats are referved certain, in a genteel POST COACH, with fets out the next Morning at Three o'CIock, and arrives at Mr. Wellin's, the Bull-and-Mouth Inn, in Bull-and-Mouth Street, London, every Monday, Wednefday, arid Friday Evenings by Seven o'CIock, and returns the fame Evening, by the faid Courfe to Kendal. Refts at Notting- /. d. 6 ham on Sunday. Infide Fare from Kendal to London Outfide Fare from ditto to ditto 1 10 o Infide Fare from Kendal to Halifax 0170 Outfide Fare from ditto to ditto 090 Short Paffengers Three-pence Half-penny per Mile. Each Paffenger to be allowed 141b. weight of Luggage, Small Parcels under i2lb. Weight, from Kendal to London, Three Shillings,all above to pay Three-pence per Pound,and so on in Proportion. Paffengers from Kendal to be entered at Mr. PETTY's, the King's-Arms. *#* The Gentlemen in Kendal, &c, are defired to be par ticular to order their Goods they wifh to have by this Car riage, to the Bull-and-Mouth Inn, London, as they will not only have them cheaper, but confiderably in lefs Time. To prevent the Paffengers being importuned with Drivers at every fhort Stage (so much complained of) we beg they will take particular Notice, that this Carriage is conducted from Kendal to London by Eight Drivers only ; while the other Carriages on the fame length of Ground, have not less than Twenty. And to put a ftop to any infults or unnecceffary Delays by the Drivers, on Application to any of the Pro prietors, fuch Driver will be immediately difcharged. This Carriage meets at the White-Lion, Halifax, the Liverpool, Warrington, Manchefter, Leeds, York, Hull, and Scar borough DILIGENCES, which go out every Day. Alfo COACHES, &c, fet out from the Angel Inn. Sheffield,everyMoming,(Sundaysexcepted) to Derby, Bur ton, Litchfield, Birmingham, Worcefter, Gloucefter, Oxford, Briftol, &c. Likewite to Worktop, Ollerton, Newark, Grantham, Stamford, &c. At the above Inn may be had genteel Mourning Coaches and Hearfes. The Proprietors of the above Machines will not be accountable for any Parcel, Box or Trufs, above Ten Pounds Value, on any Account whatever. 8®- In a few Days a DILIGENCE will be eftablifhed from Lancafter, to meet the above Carriages at I ngleton, by which Paffengers may be immediately conveyed to London, or any other Part of the Road. 27 Copy of Advertisement from the Cumberland Pacquet, for July 3rd, 17S1. Lancaster every Tuesday and Friday; and Kendal every Wednesday and Saturday. Re turning to London from the " King's Arms Inn," Kendal, every Wednesday and Saturday. The light four-inside post coach, the " Good Intent," is advertised to run in 1811 from this inn to the " Black Lion Inn," Whitehaven, by way of Ambleside, Keswick, Cocker- mouth, and Workington, at 5-30 o'clock every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morn ing, returning the following day at seven o'clock in the evening. The night mails, North and South, crossed each other at Kendal, where they changed horses, the North one arriving at 1 1 -30, and the South mail at midnight. This brief respite must have been a delicious rest to the traveller's jolted and aching limbs. Indeed there would be just time to drink that noted drink of a tumbler of "fresh milk, one fair lump of sugar, two table-spoons of rum, with a passing thought of nut meg grating on the top of all," — a trifle that could be tossed off in a minute, and so far as I can read, was perpetually so STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 279 being tossed off,— before the guard applied " the yard of tin " to his lips, and the four fresh horses whirled them off again into the dark damp lanes. The UNION COACH, FROM Kendal to Leeds, Continues to run from the King's Arms Inn, KENDAL, Every Morning, Sundays excepted, at 5 o'CIock, And goes through Kirkby-Lonsdale, Ingleton, Settle, and Skipton By Way of Otley on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, Ancl by Way of KeigHley cmd Bradford on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, And arrives at the Hotel and Tavern, LEEDS, About 8 o'CIock in the Evening, Where it meets the regular Coaches to all Parts of the South, &c. PERFORMED BY T. Atkinson, King's-Arms, Kendal. R. Hartley, Kirkby-Lonsdale. G. Proctor, Lion, Settle. J. Rose, New-Inn, Skipton. G. Richardson, Devonshire Arms, Keighley. J. Wood, Talbot, Bradford. M. Smith, White-Horse, Otley. J. Greaves, Hotel, Leeds. The Coach, from the Hotel, in Leeds, sets out at 6 o'clock in the Morning, and arrives at tbe KingVArms, in Kendal, in the Evening, where it meets the regular Coaches to all Parts ofthe North. The Proprietors request Permission to observe, that they cannot be answerable for more than FIVE POUNDS for any Box, Parcel, Truss, or Luggage, if lost or damaged, unless entered aa valuable, and insured accordingly. FEBRUARY io, 1808. >. J'rim.r, km-J.;. COPY OF POSTER DESCRIBED ON PAGE 280. From the north the " New Times " was driven by Will Richardson, imong whose feats as a " whip " was the cruel one of lifting with his thong a 28o KIRKBIE KENDALL. duck by the neck from the roadside, a dexterity only equalled by the man who could pick a fly off his leader's right eyelid. Another coach, the " Royal Union," driven by Geoffrey Bentham, left for Leeds daily, skirting along a delightful range of valleys, and I illustrate on page 279, a reduced illustration of a large poster issued in 1808 concerning it. What is announced as "the well regulated, safe, fast, cheap, and new light post coach, called the " Royal Pilot," we find from the local chronology is advertised to run from this inn to Lancaster, Preston and Liverpool. Kendal, Penrith, and Whitehaven POST COACHES. THE Proprietors, of the GOOD INTENT and VOLUNTEER COACHES, return their sincere thanks to their Friends and the Public, for the liberal en couragement they have hitherto received, and respectfully inform thenv that the GOOD INTENT COACHES, JPROM KENDAL TO WHITEHAVEN, Have commenced to run DAILY (Sundays excepted) by way of Ambleside, Keswick, Cockerraouth, and Work ington" ; — leaves Kendal at Five o'clock each morning, and Whitehaven at Eight, returning by the same route to Kendal. THE VOLUNTEER Leaves Penrith every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning at eight o'clock, and arrives in-time at Keswick, to take the Kendal or Whitehaven Coaches, returning the same, evening to Penrith. PROPRIETORS : John Jackson, Kendal William Wilcock, Ambleside. William Atkinson, Penrith. John I'anion, Keswick. Willtam Wood, Cockermouth. The Proprietors will not be accountable for any Pack age or Parcel above Five Pounds value, unit-.; entered and paid for accordingly. February 6, 1813. LEEDS AND KENDAL flinton Coacj), BV BRADFORD, SKIPTON, $c. THE PUBLIC are respectfully informed, that from and after Monday, the Third day of May next, the above Coach will run from Leeds every day (Sundays excepted), viz. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from the White Horse Yard, and on Tuesdays, Thursdays,and Saturdays, from the Hotel, each Morning at half-past Five o'clock, and arrive at half-past Eight in the Evening, at the King's Arms, Ker.dal, where it will meet direct conveyances to Penrith, Whitehaven, Carlisle, Portpatrick, Glasgow, &c. The Union Coach will leave the King's Arms, Kendal, every Morning at Five o'eiotlc, and arrive at Jjceds-at Eight in the Evening, having a direct connection witVthe South Mail and Union Coaches to London, and also im mediate conveyances tpYork, Hull, Sheffield, &c. 4c. The Proprietors, ire not accountable for more than Five Pounds for any Luggage, Parcel, or Package, unless entered and paid for as valuable. * PERFORMED BY John Jackson, King's Arrtis, Kendal. Roper, Rose and Crown, Kirkby Lonsdale. Procter.GoldeiiJ.ion, Settle. Pose, Devonshire Skipton. Morgan, Keighley. % Wood, Eradford.. Greaves, Hotel, Leeds. Hotel, ' February, IS, 1813. Accidents were many of course, but what matter, delays were reckoned upon, and to arrive at all was cause for a benediction, as has been well said : — " You got upset in a coach and there you were, but now-a-days you get upset in a train and where are you ? STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 281 The first mention we have of this inn is. in 1696, at which time it was kept by a Mrs. Rowlandson, whose fame is handed down to us for her power of making excellent potted char and hot-pot. She retired in favour of her son, Alderman Thomas Rowlandson (mercer, having his shop under the Moot Hall), who was landlord in 1715, when Earl Derwentwater with his forces entered the town, in the time of the Rebellion. From 1728 to 1762 the inn was owned by the Singleton family, when it was sold to Alderman Christopher Fenton, who was four times Mayor, 1768, 1774, 1781 and 1792, and who is celebrated for being the first innkeeper to keep a post chaise in Kendal. The Singletons also farmed an estate, which to this day bears the name of Singleton Park. After a Dr. Masterson (died 1790) Alderman William Petty succeeded as landlord, and in 1798 Alderman Thomas Atkinson ; then followed John Jackson, who in 181 1 guaranteed the business of the light post coach, and he, in turn, was succeeded by James Holmes, tenant in 1838, and who died in 1847. James Jackson came next, and he retired in 1867 in favour of Joseph Dawson, at whose death his daughter, Mrs. Bell, took up the reins of management with such great success and hearty cheer as we all so well remember. John D. Wilman came in 1894. In 1841, the London Standard reports a substantial testimonial to the good cheer of this house, for we read in that paper that " among the delicacies ofthe dinner at the Commercial Travellers' Association on Christmas Eve was a pie presented by the good lady of the ' King's Arms Inn ' at Kendal, which attracted much curiosity. The pie contained two fat geese, two large turkeys, four fowls, two pheasants, four grouse, two hares, four prize rabbits, three tongues, and eight pounds of beefsteak and ham. Its circumference measured seven feet, it was ten inches in depth, and weighed 5st. 81bs." No wonder the early papers delight in telling us of the sumptuous feasts spread out upon every conceivable occasion beneath the roof of such an hospitable hostess. Nothing seems to have gone wrong with our good townsfolk in those balmy days, for be it peace or war, trial or prosperity, there seems always to have been an occasion for feasting. " O hour of all hours, the most blessed upon earth, Blessed hour of our dinners ! We may live without poetry, music, and art ; We may live without conscience, and live without heart ; 282 KIRKBIE KENDALL. We may live without friends ; we may live without books ; But civilized man cannot live without cooks. He may live without books, — what is knowledge but grieving ? He may live without hope, — what is hope but deceiving ? He may live without love, — what is passion but pining ? But where is the man that can live without dining ? " — Owen Meredith. In 1812, Trinity College gentlemen held their annual dinner here ; the year following the good folk ate and drank in honour of the great battle of Leipsic, and later on in the same year the worthy Mayor bid them fill up their glasses and honour thirty-eight toasts by way of celebrating the victories over the French. In 1816, a social gathering was held in consequence of peace with America. In 1818, Mr. Brougham kept the board lively during his contest, and "The Kendal Book Club " and " The Card Assembly" held their festive balls. The patriotic met, to commemorate the glorious revolution of 1688, and the sportsmen, clad in Kendal green, gathered here over their annual hunt celebrations. In 1819, the anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo was loyally kept, and we read later on of the Aldermen again dining and passing round the cup, in honour of George IV. being proclaimed King of England. On Saturday, October 3rd, 1835, the papers record that " a travelling carriage arrived with two gentlemen, who dined in private together. Much curiosity was excited as to who they were, till a domestic, with woman's wit, put it to the test by asking the stouter party, whom she took to be a nobleman, to frank her a letter. He smiled, and said — ' Morgan, give this young lady a frank sure,' whereupon Morgan gave her the frank of Daniel O'Connell." It seems that before the delighted maid could spread the news of O'Connell's presence he had managed to leave the town, much to our local reformers' chagrin. In visiting this inn one should not fail to notice the quaint old latch on the " private room " door and the two most interesting old keys of considerable merit that still unlock two other doors. Below the inn are still three small shops, well depicted in Stirzaker's picture. The one to the south was formerly occupied by Nathan Lowthian, who carried on the same business of a hairdresser as the present tenant does STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 283 to this day ; next to this was the coach booking office. On the other side of the entry, and below the bay window of the " Black Hole of Calcutta " bed room, is seen the old-established saddler's shop — then carried on by Thomas Relph, and very much as it is now, with the exception that the door was in the centre, with two small windows on either side. _. __, The Westmorland Gazette and Kendal Advertiser was first Gazette Office. issued under the editorship of Fisher, on the 23rd of May, 1818. It is evident from the address to the public, which occupies the first column of the first issue, that the adherents of the house of Lowther, not content with being treated in the Chronicle upon what was called equal terms with their opponents, started this paper with the avowed intention of writing down and suppressing the older paper. It Will be remembered that three months previous to this, the great Parliamentary election was fought between Lord Lowther and Henry Brougham — an election when every impassioned thought and every strong word then known in the provincial language, were freely brought into action by both parties. A subscription list was at once opened to provide funds for the new undertaking ; 33 shares and a half of £50 each were taken up, and a capital of £1,675 thus raised. The paper as it first appeared, and as it continued for some time, consisted of four pages of five columns each, and was published at the price of sevenpence. The original printers were Airey & Bellingham, but before the end of the second year a separate printing establishment was arranged for in the New Shambles, Finkle Street. This charge of sevenpence a copy included the fourpenny stamp duty then imposed by the Government upon all papers, and no journal was legally current until it had received the stamp of the exciseman. The paper came from Manchester ready stamped, and the printers had to be very careful not to spoil a sheet, or the price of the stamp was lost. Although the Government stamp carried the newspaper through the post free of charge, still the tax proved a great clog to the advancement of general knowledge. Unprinted paper was taxed ; news was taxed ; advertisements were taxed. Mr. Frank Pollitt tells us that " there were penny papers in the days of Queen Anne, but they were inconvenient to the Government ; they took impertinent notice of the conduct of ' the great ; ' so that in 1712 the stamp duty was imposed to keep them in order. The little penny papers were, in fact, taxed out of all 284 KIRKBIE KENDALL. existence. The advertisement duty likewise, was as great a clog on business as the stamp duty was on the production of cheap news. The Gazette paid 3s. 6d. on every advertisement inserted." From July, 1818, to November, 1819, the editorship was placed in the hands ofthe celebrated De Quincey, who was not a model editor. He wrote a few ordinary and many extraordinary articles, and delighted himself with a lively controversy with his rival at the Chronicle Office respecting the numbers and circulation of each paper. Poor De Quincey ! it was not easy for him to bend his literary aspirations in subservience to his outside proprietors, and put up with fixed office work. In June, 1819, he received a letter suggesting the proprietors' displeasure, and in the following November his resignation was in their hands. De Quincey was succeeded in his editorial functions by John Kilner, who held the post for three years, acted as manager for the proprietors, and helped to set the new journal firmly on its feet. It was during his management that in January, 1820, the Gazette followed the example of the Chronicle by publishing in quarto size, with eight pages of four narrow columns to the page ; but in January, 1821, it again changed back to folio form of six columns. Kilner resigned in October, 1821, when overtures to John Briggs, at that time editor of the Lonsdale Magazine, resulted in his appointment at a yearly salary of £50. Briggs died in November, 1824, at the early age of 36. The Lonsdale Magazine, a monthly publication, after being published for two years in Kirkby Lonsdale, was continued for awhile by John Briggs when he came to Kendal ; but for want of support it only lived another year. Tyras Redhead then took up the work, and we find that in September, 1836, the stamp duty was reduced from fourpence to one penny on each copy, when the price of the paper at once fell from 7d. to 4±d. The editorship was resigned by Tyras Redhead in April, 1837. A new departure was then made — Thomas Harrison, solicitor, on behalf of the shareholders became the registered pro prietor. He slightly enlarged the page, and gave a fresh pledge of con stitutional orthodoxy in a new motto — " Pro rege, lege, et grege." In May, 1844, tne proprietorship passed into the hands of Thomas Atkinson, who for six years following continued to print it in the New Shambles ; but in December, 1850, the works were removed to some specially erected premises in the Woolpack Yard, where the make-up was finally changed to the eight-page form in which it has become so familiar to us. This STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 285 first step in advance was followed by many others. The last issue on which the penny stamp duty was paid was that of June 23rd, 1855, and on the 30th the price of the paper was reduced from 4M. to 3id. In the meantime- August, 1853 — the tax on advertisements had been taken off; only the paper duty remained, and that followed the rest in i860. As an immediate result, the paper was reduced in price from 3|d. to 3d. on October the 5th. The late Charles Pollitt was taken into partnership in 1867, and in December of that year steam was introduced. It is rather interesting to learn that the first copy of the Gazette printed by steam on December 14th, 1867, was sent as a curiosity for preservation to our local Museum. The year 1873 saw the further reduction of the price from 3d. to 2d., and, as Mr. Frank Pollitt says, "the years which immediately followed were the years during which the first great Education Act came into general operation. Readers were multiplying, interest was quickening, a wide field for the penny newspaper was opening, and in January, 1881, the Gazette was published at that price." To Charles Pollitt must be ascribed the honour of thus following, although seven years later, the Mercury's popular price, who, upon the retire ment of Thomas Atkinson in 1880, vigourously took up the sole management. His keen foresight led him to lay down new and more rapid machinery, and in 1884 the paper so well edited, was enlarged from forty-eight to fifty-six columns. The continued growth in the circulation of the Gazette made it necessary to build new offices and lay down rotary machinery in 1899. The yard at the rear of the old publishing office in Stricklandgate was taken in and covered over and the warehouses and cottages were also requisitioned for the Gazette's new home. At the same time the size of the paper was enlarged to sixty-four columns and it is now the largest paper published within many miles of Kendal. The Kendal Herald was published first on January 2nd, 1864, by Thomas Atkinson. It consisted of eight pages of five columns each, and was sold at a penny. However, its life was only of short duration, as we find it discontinued on October 13th, 1866. The name of this now almost forgotten inn, which Rose and Crown Inn. .. , , . A . . . , , displayed a pictorial signboard representing a rose and a crown, was probably meant as a tribute to the Lancastrians. It is a building of considerable antiquity, and still has in its attic a most splendid example of heavy oak framing, which is to-day in perfect preservation, On the a86 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Ev STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 287 second floor there are traces left of the elaborate cornices that once ornamented the dancing saloon. The main floor of the inn, approached as was usual from the entry, has now been entirely taken down so as to give height to the shop beneath, which was formerly divided by a partition into two small and very low shops, where a dogger and a hosier had their places of business (see illustration on page 286.) A shearman's farthing, issued in 1666, was found here when some workmen were engaged in altering one of the walls. The first note that I have of the inn is that it was kept by Mrs. Bryers in 1756, and my last note is that soon after January, 1876, the property fell into the hands of the Lancaster Bank, from whom it was bought by Messrs. H. Waddington & Co., who at once gave notice to the tenant that the license would not again be applied for. Thus did the " Rose and Crown " cease to exist as a public-house on August the 25th, 1876. .... . _ . w The famous hostelry of the " White Lion," now much White Lion Inn. . . decayed by passing years, and which had an old open galleried front, is now converted into private shops, the gallery being enclosed. Until quite recently the ancient fagade, of over 200 years, had been preserved, but alas ! since this illustration was taken, vandalism has had its sway, and the poetry of Gardner's old tinsmith's shop, snugly hidden beneath the pent roof, is lost to the town for ever. The beautiful oak-pierced barge boards to the gables, however, still remain. It was here that William Hudson, the botanist and author of the " Flora Anglica " (1772) and other works, was born, in or about the year 1730, the inn then being kept by his father. The poet Gray stayed here in October, 1762, and writes the following account of his visit: — "I entered Kendal almost in the dark, and could distinguish only a shadow of the castle on the hill and tenter-grounds spread far and wide round the town, which I mistook for houses. My inn promised sadly, having two wooden galleries in front of it ; it was indeed an old, ill-contrived house, but kept by civil, sensible people, so I stayed two nights with them, and fared and slept very comfortably. " Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round, Where'er his stages may have been, May sigh to think he still has found The warmest welcome at an Inn." — Shenstone. KIRKBIE KENDALL. For many years a rampant white lion, painted on copper, braved the elements in front of the house, being a badge of one of the Edwards. Truly an appropriate enough sign for the roaring trade that must have been carried on here. It will be remembered that in olden times families put out their escutcheons upon the frontages of their houses, and the heraldic lion Argent, Or, Gules, or Azure, to the uninitiated in heraldic art, were spoken of by the vernacular name of white, golden, red, or blue lion. From these the inn keepers took their signs, and not from some king of the polar seas, or bloody monarch of the desert. The earliest record that we have of the inn dates back some 200 years, to a time when it was put up in public sale. Whilst referring later on to Dockray Hall, it will be seen that I quote at some length a will dated March nth, 1697, in which William Mori and gives devises and be queaths to certain friends this inn, to gether with other properties, to be sold immediately after his death, to pay and discharge all his just Wigan, Prefton, Lancafter, and Kendal STAGE-COACH, SETS out from the BELL-INN, in Wood- ftreet, on Monday Morn ing-., and arrives at the WHITE-LION, in Ken dal, on Thurfday Night. — Sets out from thence on I uefday Noon, and goes to the above Inn, in London, on Saturday Night, during the Winter Seafon. An Infide Place, Between London and Kendal, 3 1. 7 s.) Prefton, 2 1. 15 s. Lancafter, 3 1. is./ Wigan, 2 1. 10 s. Outfides, and Children on Lap, Half-price, and allowed ten Pound of Luggage; Infides, twenty Pounds; Four-pence per Pound for all above, to Kendal, and fo in Proportion: — One-Half ofthe Money on entering- their Names, the other at taking the Coach. — No Money, Plate, Writings, or Things of great Value, will be accounted (in full) for, if loft, unlefs en tered and paid for as fuch. By this Method, Paffeng'ers, maybe expediti- oufly conveyed from any Part of the North, to or from Manchefter, \\ ar- rington, Wigan, Prefton, Lancafter, or the Parts adjacent, at a Price in proportion to any Part of the Road. /ABRAHAM FREELOVE, and ROBERT BATHER, of London. Performed, if God permit, by ^ THOMAS PARR, of Guilford. AND *JAMES HOLMES, of Lancafter. N. B. The STAGE from Liverpool to Kendal, performed by the a- bove James Holmes, fets out from Liverpool every Monday Morn ing, — and from Kendal every Friday Morning, during the Winter- Season. October 13th, 1764. Copy of Coaching Advertisement. debts. On September 4th, 1806, in consequence ofthe bankruptcy of John Petty, this inn, standing then at a rental of £70, was sold by public auction to Wm. Stainton; and again in 1870 it was sold, when the auctioneer alludes to the far-famed dancing room, "47 feet by 16 feet, approached by a spacious oak staircase, and also to a bowling green, 154 feet by 414 feet/' a space which is now covered by Nelson's timber yard. Here it was that the meetings ofthe STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 289 Loyal Orange Lodges were regularly held about the year 1820, and where the artizans and mechanics held their memorable meeting to protest against the Corn Laws, adopting a petition, which obtained 2,500 signatures. And here, too, in 1829, some townsmen met to inauguarate a Kendal Co-operative Society, and in 1830 to hold the tenth and final anniversary of the Kendal Union Building Society. ,,. j jnr Up the yard, behind the " White Lion Inn," there is another fine Yard 44. ... specimen of the old leaden rain water spouts, for which Kendal was at one time so famed. It bears on the shield the initials " I. S.A." with an eagle displayed on the shaft. _ _, , , The tall building at the head of Entry Lane has lone: Temperance Hotel. been known as a Temperance Hotel, and below, where Ion has his shop, modernized some few years ago, previously existed two small shops one above the other, the upper one being approached by a flight of steps that projected into the street. This can clearly be seen in the illustration on page 286. Here till the year 1819 Nicholas Wilson, watch maker, had his abode, a man who was best known as one of the first scientific bellringers in the North of England, and to whom we are indebted for a peal at our Parish Church, which ranks amongst the most complete and musical in the kingdom. _ _ This historic lane in the Boke of Recorde is named " Stane's Entry Lane. Entry" by reason of its being opposite to the ancient " Cauld Stean." On Speed's plan of 1614 it is marked "Wilson's Lane," and in the register of the burials at the Parish Church it is entered as the " Entry in Stricklandgate, 1762." _ , ,. Of the old-fashioned " Peacock Inn," which stood on the Peacock Inn. . south side of the lane, I can learn nothing that would be of interest to record. The quaint old wooden-fronted gable, a glory of massive grandeur, so interesting to the antiquary, passed away at the beginning of this century. ,_ ,_ But to return to the eastern side of the street we notice next Nos. 13 to 19. door to No. 9, which was at one time a coffee house, a splendid row of lath and plaster houses, with molded overhanging pro jections. No. 13 (Farrer's tea shop) alone retains the original quaint form of window ; the other shops being refronted in the year 1822. 290 KIRKBIE KENDALL. I can only trace the history of the row back to the middle of last century, to a time when it was owned by William Herbert, a mercer. He died in February, 1766, and by his will bequeathed lo his wife Agnes, during her natural life, all that burgage house, messuage or tenement, with a stable and back buildings, and also three shops and two cellars under the front of the said dwelling-house ; and after her decease to his grandson, Fletcher Fleming. The widow died January, 1776, aged 84, and in the following month the property was sold by the said Fletcher Fleming. After this time No. 19 was occupied by William Bordley, an ironmonger, who was succeeded by Thomas Miller in the same line of business. He was mayor in 1776 and in 1780, and to him is due the refronting of the northern end of the row. John Pearson came to Kendal in 1781, and took over Miller's business, and in his turn became mayor in 1809 and 1818. He died at the age of 80 in the year 1837, and was succeeded by his son, Francis. Matthew Redhead followed, and removed the business next door to No. 21. Nos. 21 and 23. The Old Town Hall and adjacent Buildings. Further to the north was the ancient draper's shop as here illustrated. It must have been a dear old place, such as one would now-a-days give much to look upon. And it would not be so small either, for every inch of space was utilised. For instance, a foot was stolen from the ground to gain head height, and the ceiling of the shop was just at STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 291 that convenient level to enable " Tommy Wilson " to easily reach unaided the topmost shelf, whereon lay the silks, cambrics, and delicate drabs that delighted the Quakeresses shopping in those sober days. Truly, the drawing strikes one strangely with the singular and simple idea our forefathers must have had, of what constituted the requisites of a first-class shop. But when Thomas Miller made such extensive alterations to the adjoining row, the spirit of this building became ashamed, in sheer desperation it was compelled to throw aside its lowly guise and submit to the frontage being entirely rebuilt in 1826. As a compromise, however, it clung tenaciously to the olden small panes and large frames until the year 1854, when they at last gave way to what was then considered the largest plate-glass windows in the town. It was Wilson Marriott, a chemist, who thus converted the place into a substantial and finely-hammered limestone building. I am told that he paid the Corporation the sum of £20 to be allowed to carry his cornice up higher than that on the Moot Hall, and thereby block up one of the three dials of the town clock. Notice the prominent lines in the illustration depicting the paving flags. With what pride they are drawn in ! And no wonder, seeing that they formed the first street pavement ever set in Kendal. But the boys would run along and strike their clogs against them, in consequence of which poor Tommy Wilson soon became terribly aged, and after a time removed to the more rural district of Netherfield. See page 197. In the middle of the XVIIIth century it would seem that a tanner occupied the building. One who was doubtless present at the last Kendal Guild in 1759, and walked with the 60 tanners who took part in the procession. The follow ing extract is from the Westmorland Gazette of June 10th, 1826: — "A singular hammer. In the walls of a house now being taken down adjoining the Town Hall, a hammer was found similar to those used by the excise for stamping leather. A tanner of the name of John Sawrey resided here some 60 years ago (1766) who was suspected of stamping his own leather to defraud the revenue. One morning it was discovered that he had quitted both house and trade and was never more heard of. This is most likely the very hammer that he had used and which he had kept concealed in the wall. The parts are well cut, 292 KIRKBIE KENDALL. clean and perfect, on one side there is the No. 1402, probably the progressive one then used by Government and in two other corners the letters J. H. which appear to have been movable so that they might be changed as required. In the same building has been found a silver coin of the time of Edw. VI., probably a shilling being nearly as large as our half-crown, but very thin." Adjoining these shops, and at the corner of Mercer's Lane, Moot Hall. stands the building which, until the year 1859, was the Moot Hall.* It is one of the chief characteristics of an ancient town that its hal! of justice was almost invariably placed in the Market Square ; and to many an antiquary, visiting this ancient burgh in recent days, it has appeared as a puzzle why our Town Hall should be so far remote from this rightful position. It can be, therefore, of no small comfort to our wonted pride to feel that in days gone by our Moot Hall did not transgress against this customary characteristic. It would seem that the building was erected in the year 1591, but that in 1729 it was almost entirely remodelled, being greatly heightened and adorned by new windows, a time when the old oaken gallery that used to run along Mercer's Lane was removed. Upon the Corporation removing to the White Hall in Highgate the property was sold by auction on the 12th day of April, 1859, when it realized the magnificent sum of £280 ! Accustomed as we are to the style of our present mayor's apartments, it is difficult to imagine this old court-loft, approached by twenty-four steps, and only partially lit with the aid of some half-burnt sixes fixed in tin candlesticks against the whitewashed walls. Turning sharp round to the west, at the head of the stair, so as fo face the portrait of John Yeates hanging above the bench, the careful observer might have distinguished truly a few long windows begrimed with dirt on the right-hand looking into the lane, and another on the left over the gallery appropriated to the jury. Beside this latter window there was a doorway leading to the retiring room, the which being separated only by a sliding partition, could be thrown into the main court as necessity required. In front of the bench was a round table for the use of the learned profession and their subordinates, with occasional room for the newspaper * Moot.— A. Saxon, Mtitian, to meet for deliberation, to discuss, from mill, a meeting, whence me'tan, to leet. Likewise a moot-point, one liable to be debated. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 293 reporter. But nothing, I think, can describe the dilapidated condition of the building, so much as the wooden rail pen-like enclosure which was placed in the centre of the room as a necessary precaution to keep the public away from this rotten portion of the floor, and beneath which were no wooden supports.Town Clock * have. ^een una^e to ^n(^ any rec0I"d of a public clock having been set up in this town prior to the year 1582, before which period one would suppose that "Time told his birthdays by the sun." In the above year, however, we learn from the Boke off Recorde that " James Leyburne esquyer of his liberalise ffor the vse benyfite & pleasure off all the inhabitants of Kyrkby Kendall and also off all others comynge and resortinge vnto the same did ffrelie geve & bestowe all his clock furnyshed wth the soundinge bell belonginge, as the same was standinge at his Manor house off Cunyswicke wthin this pishe, together wth divers oke trees in his pke off Cunyswicke for settinge and placinge the same vpon." It is highly probable that this frame and clock remained standing in the Market Place for 167 years, that is to say until the year 1759, when upon rebuilding the Moot Hall the clock was, as we know, suspended out from the heightened tower, in which position it remained until the year 1774. No wonder that after indicating the flight of time to six or seven generations of our townsmen, besides having previously done duty for an indefinite period at Cunswick Hall, that we read at last of its erratic movements and the troubled faces of those who resorted to it for the time of day. A five days' severe battle was fought at Appleby in October, 1774, for the parliamentary representation of Westmorland, which resulted in the return of Sir James Lowther and Sir Michael le Fleming. Sir James, of " galloping Jammy" renown, whilst staying at the "White Lion" a short time afterwards, also became annoyed with the wayward movements of the old clock, and by way of commemorating his happy victory, presented to the Corporation a new one made by Wm. Wilson, of All Hallows Lane. The gift seems to have been a particularly generous one, seeing that the town as a whole voted against the donor in the election. For 87 years this clock served the town, at first with its dial facing into the Market Place, until August, 1840, when it was rehung on the front of the Hall, so as to face up and down the main street. 294 KIRKBIE KENDALL. In a dialogue, the Rev. Edward Hawkes makes t' auld Toon Clock expostulate about its " dour mesters, who were for ivver riving and rooting," as follows : — " If ye'll tak t' trouble, Sir, to leeak back intuit Kendal papers, aboot t' time when Lord John were trying to tinker t' Reform Bill ower agen, mappen i' '51 or '52 ye'll see o' aboot it. O sorts o' folks had been starin' and jibin'at ma ; an' sayin' I was good to nout at o'. But it was o' t' fault o' them that sud ha' guided me reet. Well, then I get sic a scooring, an' my feeace and fingers and harms were paanted and varnished, an' I kna net wat ; an' et last I were weel oilt and let ga ; an' I foon it easy gaing, for they let me ga on " tick," which maist high leeved folk like ye kna. An' then t' Editor o' th' paper, I kenna which, sed to ma coomfort — for Sir, I were enlightened like, I can read t' paper gay weel — he sed verrra grand, ' The machinery, which is self-illuminating, is retained ; and we are fain to believe that the Town Hall clock, instead of being any longer a gibe and a joke, will really be rendered not only useful but ornamental to the worthy Kendalians.' Eh Sir, but it did mi auld worn oot works gude to read, a' that, its so gran and self satisfactory like, I shall ev a wink o' rest and bide my ain time." Poor thing, its rest was not for long, the time soon came for it to go to a saintlier home. For when the Corporation removed in 1861 to the White Hall, the old clock, after being deprived of its bell which was removed to the new hall, was presented to St. Thomas' Church by the Mayor and Corporation, and a subscription was made for its thorough repair, renovation, and erection there. It first struck the bell of this church on August nth, 1862, and a cleaver contrivance was made so that it could do this at every successive half hour, much to the delight, we are told, ofthe inhabitants of that parish. I have before me an interesting paper which is dated October 24th, 1843, in which is set forth " A list of Days appointed by the Corporation of Kendal on which to hoist the Town's Flag." January New Year's Day. February Queen's Marriage. April 29 Kendal Spring Fair Day. May 24 Queen's Birthday. ») 29 Restoration of Charles II. June 7 Reform Bill passed. ,, 18 General peace. j» 20 Queen's Accession. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 295 June 28 „ Queen's Coronation. August 13 Queen Dowager's Rirthday. 17 Duchess of Kent's Birthday. „ 26 Prince Albert's Birthday. November 1 Election of Town Councillors. .1 9 - Election of Mayor, Prince of Wales' Birthday and Kendal Fair Day. Easter Day. Whit-Monday. And such other days as the Mayor may direct. __ , , _ At the south-west corner of the Free Library can still be seen Market Cross. - a portion of the old Cauld-stean, a corruption of call-stone, from which all proclamations were called prior to the institution of the bellman. It is supposed to have been a portion of the octagon base to the ancient market cross, which was removed from the centre of Stricklandgate in 1765, when the fast increasing vehicular traffic required the removal of such an obstruction. There is a story told of some mischievous boys rolling this historic stone down to the Elephant Yard Entry, much to the consternation of the worthy burghers, but fortunately for their equanimity, it was quickly found and restored to its former position of honour. The well-known " London stone," which now is built in to a wall opposite Canon Street Station in the Metropolis, was the central milliarum or milestone of London in the days of the Roman occupation ; and so in a like manner our Cauld-stean marks the central milliarum from which the distances along our high roads are now measured. According to some old plans the Market Cross seems to have been some what ornate in design, standing upon an angular basement, and a few aged inhabitants can still remember having seen an eight-sided obelisk lying in the stone works of Webster and Holme, New Inn Yard, and that it was spoken of as the old Market Cross pedestal. Market crosses originated in towns near to some monastic establish ment, to which the Order sent a monk or friar on market days to preach to the assembled farming people. Their endeavour seems to have been to excite public homage to religion, and to inspire men with a sense of morality and piety amidst the ordinary business of life. The cross also formed a, con- 296 KIRKBIE KENDALL. venient place where the tolls levied on farmers and dealers in country produce, for the privilege of selling within the town, could be collected. Doubtless the original form of such crosses was simply a shaft raised on steps, but in order to shelter the divine, or the toll collector, a covering was added in umbrella form, beneath which also the farmers' wives sought shelter in wet weather. The prototype of the covered markets of to-day. I have already, on page 50, referred to the bringing home of the third Charter, and to the public rejoicings which took place at this cross in 1683. Again, amongst the papers preserved at Levens Hall is a letter from Mr. Richard Lowrey to Colonel James Grahme and dated April 23rd, 1702, as follows. — "This being the day of her Majesty's coronation, the Mayor, Alder men, Burgesses and others went from the public hall to the Cross, with drums and music before them and drank the health of the Queen and Prince George of Denmark on their knees, with the prosperity of the Established Church. In the evening there were illuminations, bonfires etc. with such joy as I have never seen in this town." The Cauld-stean was used for the last time on December 31st, 1864, when the Town Clerk read from thence the abolition of the Kendal tolls. Here for centuries past the farm servants have stood during the hiring fairs, with the symbolic piece of straw in their mouths, and the custom is still known as " standing the cross." Pillory. Pillory, Near by stood for many cen turies the wooden pillory, erected in the middle of the street, between the Cauld Stean and the " Rose and Crown " Inn, and which was sold at last by the Corporation for firewood in August, 1840. In England, in bygone days, the pillory was a familiar object, and perhaps no engine of punishment was more STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 297 generally employed. Where there was a market, the pillory was sure to be seen ; for if the authorities neglected to have it ready for immediate use, for bakers offending in the assize of bread ; for millers stealing of corn at the mill ; for bawds, scolds and other offenders, they ran the risk of forfeiting the right of holding a market, a most serious matter in those delightful days. In the year 1816 the pillory ceased to be employed for punishing persons except in cases of perjury, and for this purpose it was used so late as the year 1830, but it was abolished altogether by Act of Parliament in the year of our Queen's accession to the throne. St Ga rf ' cv, 1 ^n tne s'te °^ t^ie Present Free Library the old St. George's Chapel once stood, raised upon open-built arches, a good model of which is preserved in our museum. It was erected in 1754 on the site of some dingy-looking buildings, consecrated on June 24th, 1755, by Bishop Keene, and removed away in June, 1855, having just stood one hundred years. After the erection of the present St. George's Church in 1841, this chapel was little used excepting for temporary purposes, but it will always be honoured as the place where the Rev. Wm. Whitelock preached so faithfully between the years 1807 and 1822. Church Missionary Society. On Sunday, the 28th inst. two Sermons will be preached at, St. George's Chapel, in this Town, by the Rev. Isaac Saunders, M.A., of St. Margaret's, Westminster, in aid of the Church Missionary Soci ety for Africa and the East. HIT Service to commence at half- after Ten in the Morning, arid at Six in the Evening. Kendal, August 20th, 1814. Printed by M. Branthwaite & Co., Kendal. Copy of Handbill. I have thought it interesting here to illustrate a handbill in my possession, as being the first notice we have ofthe Church Missionary Society in Kendal. 208 KIRKBIE KENDALL. OR THE NORTH ROAD. 299 (Darker pk §r STRICKLANDGA TE The executors of the will of the late Dr. Stratford, com missary of the Arch deaconry of Rich mond, contributed £600 towards the building and endow ment, besides £11 or so for a set of com munion plate. The same Dr. Stratford also gave by his will £50 to the poor of Kendal, £20 to the poor of Killington, £3,000 more for specific charities ; and he bequeathed the residuum of his personality, £9,390, to be laid out in buying good books to be disposed of to proper persons with in the Archdeaconry of Richmond, in S trick land jjaTe. l relieving poor housekeepers, putting out poor children as apprentices, clothing poor old people and poor boys and girls, and augmenting fifty-eight small livings and curacies. Good man ! Beneath the chapel were three shops at the west end, behind which was the foul, dark, filthy " Black Hole," disused in the year 1836, and beneath this again was the town's dungeon, where refractory prisoners were confined in irons. In befitting contiguity, as the cause of such suffering, were other com modious vaults for the storage and sale of wine and ardent spirits. During the evening services the outcries of the drunken prisoners, it is said, were some- \5'f 5" f 300 KIRKBIE KENDALL. times heard giving fresh earnestness to the solemn preaching of Dr. Whitelock. There are many towns that claim the authorship of the following lines, and notably the ancient town of Richmond, but in 1822 one of our papers pub lished them as a genuine inspiration : — " There's a spirit. above, and a spirit below, A spirit of love, and a spirit of woe ! The Spirit above is the Spirit divine, And the spirit below is the spirit of wine ! " In the rear was the market with its stalls clustered around the wooden columns supporting the chapel floor, but the accommodation being imperfect and insufficient the Corporation came forward in 1855, and, in order to provide a new market house, voluntarily relinquished their holding in the two front shops, and the Rev. J. W. Barnes, with the consent of Bishop Graham, con sented to the removal ofthe disused church. The present building was erected by public subscription, at a cost of £700, upon a rather narrower site, in order to widen the northern lane to the market square. The mayor, John Whitwell, laid the foundation stone at the south west corner on the 21st day of July, 1855, who, instead of building in, as of old, a townsman's child alive to propitiate the evil spirit of the earth, and thus secure a safe foundation, paid the forfeiture by depositing a bottle beneath the stone, containing the seven silver coins then in circulation, a penny, six half-pennies, a farthing, and half farthing, together with a copy each of the two local papers, and a parchment document. It seems that the mayor was unfortunately cut short in the middle of his speech upon this occasion by the ringing of the fire-bell in consequence of the firing of a hay stack at Aikrigg End, and which caused the immediate dispersal of the meeting. The building was converted into a Free Library upon the erection of the New Market Hall in the year 1891. Adjoining the Moot Hall was the "Slip Inn," a quaint old building, the history of which we know nothing, except that it was tenanted by Isaac Kirkby until 1813, and that it was sold by auction, together with the dwelling-house and shop in front, when in the occupation of William Norman in November, 1863, and that the overhanging front was altered in 1865. It was closed as an inn in 1898. tor-H til O Sa ¦S &5 tq oa: o b THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 3o2 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The room recently occupied by the Guardians of the Caledonian Room. ., iL , , ... , , , Kendal Poor, with the shops beneath, is probably an erection of 1800. For a time it was a chapel for the Presbyterian Church, after which- it was used as a newsroom by the tradesmen. See page 62. This is another ancient inn, of which there is little history recorded beyond the boast of a certain Taylor, that in order to show the Kendal joiners what he could do, he made the front door, with eight raised panels, in one day. We also find it put up for sale on the 18th August, 1780, being then let to James Hallhead at the clear yearly rent of £18, and in complete repair. George Adlington was innkeeper till his death in 1795, and my next note is that Christopher Gibson held the tenancy until December, 1843, when it was again advertised for sale by Roger Cornthwaite, together with his own residence in Castle Street. In the middle ages every town, abbey, and nearly all the more important manorial lords had the right of hanging, so that the gallows were on every hand a conspicuous feature. And considering that Henry VIII., the monarch of "the hanging reign,"* favoured the town with his courtship of Katherine Parr, it is hardly likely that this ancient borough should have been wanting in this gruesome object. But where it stood I can find no mention, nor indeed anything concerning it. But we have here in the Market Place certain knowledge of the public stocks, which were made to hold two persons, and which stood near to this last mentioned inn, until removed in 1835. In 1405 an Act was passed for every town and village to be provided with a pair of stocks, so that a place was not considered complete, or only regarded as a hamlet, without this instrument of punishment, so essential to due order and government were they deemed to be. It was enacted, in the year 1605, that every person convicted of drunkenness should be fined five shillings or spend six hours in the stocks, and here amid the busy market the poor culprit would sit upon a cold stone seat, with his feet fastened in the miserable structure, subject to the merciless scorn and derision of the crowd. Even the shins of the great Cardinal Wolsey, when incumbent at Lymington, about the yea*. * 72,000 persons were executed during- his 37 years of sovereignty. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 3°3 1500, became acquainted with that town's wooden pinfold, for overstepping the bounds of moderation at a village feast. " A parson here! confined in stocks, A prison made of wood — a — . Weeping and praying to get out, But couldna' for his blood — a — . The pillory, it hung o'er his head, The whipping-post so near — a — A crowd of people round about Did at Thomas laugh and jeer — a — ." It was a fearful punishment without doubt, and perhaps was wisely discontinued. An old inhabitant says that both men and women used to be flogged in the Market Place near to the stocks, there being a ring fixed to the wall to which the culprits were fastened by a rope. Prior to this modification of Queen Elizabeth's, upon the famous Whipping Act of Henry VIII., both men and women were frequently punished by being tied naked to a " cart tail," and flogged through the streets, " till the body be bloody by reason of such whipping." He also men tions the early practice of carting prisoners through the town, with a board hung on their backs, on which was painted in conspicuous characters, the word " thief " or "vagrant." After going the length of the principal streets in this fashion the culprit was set down at the town's end, and so discharged forth from the borough. This hall was built by public subscription in commemoration of the Queen's Jubilee, 1887. The first charter for holding a Kendal market was granted by King Richard I. The fair and market tolls L7gewiTT.scr Pillory, Whipping-post and Stocks at Wallingford. 304 KIRKBIE KENDALL. were abolished on the last day of 1864, being purchased by subscription amounting to £1100, from the Lords of the Manor or Barony, the Earl of Lonsdale and the Hon. Mary Howard. The event seems to have been celebrated by a treat of wine and cake given by the Mayor and Corporation, Farmers' Club, and other gentlemen. Afterwards a procession was formed, headed by a band of music, which wended its way to the Cauld-stean, from whence the Town Clerk read the proclamation declaring the tolls free from twelve o'clock at noon of that day henceforth, and for ever. This public-house still shows signs of having once had a Football Inn. r gallery front. The football, from which the inn took the name, was won and retained as a trophy in a fierce contest played between Kendal and some neighbouring township. For many generations it hung suspended in the kitchen until the house was rebuilt. This building at first consisted only of four small Workmen s Newsroom. shops, a gallary and a loft. It was purchased on February 23rd, 1836, by the Mayor, Thomas Sleddall, on behalf of the Corpora tion for £20, from James Ward a tailor. By them it was used as a weigh loft, in which the woollen yarn produced by the country women's distaff and spinning-wheel was weighed out to the cap, jacket, or cloth manufactures. The building remained as such for one hundred and twenty-two years, that is uutil the 5th of June, 1758, when it was sold to Thomas Ashburner, printer and bookseller, for £39 12s. 8d. Ashburner practically rebuilt the old building, and transformed the premises into the " New Play House." He died in 1778 at the age of 73, when the property came by will to his son, James, who succeeded him in business. In the autumn of 1787 the zealous Stephen Brunskill rented the building at six guineas per annum for Wesleyan services, and on February 13th, 1795, we find it sold to this body for £89 as their first meeting house. They could not, however, have remained here for very long, as they subsequently removed to " The Fold," in Stricklandgate, previous to the erection of their chapel at the nothern town-end in the year 1808. Again, we find that in February, 1827, James Moffatt, a draper, sold the building to Christopher Pennington, a watch maker, for £250. For the same sum it was sold in 1843 by Pennington's niece to the Trustees of the Working Men's Institute, who now continue to hold it. The building was refronted, and otherwise considerably altered in the year 1865. STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 305 The history of the property is a good example of how even small rights continue throughout hundreds of years. At the time that the Corporation bought the property from James Ward, a right-of-way over the gallery was granted to him in order that he might ascend to his tailor's shop, and this is doubtless the same right now possessed by the " Football Inn " to a dwelling- house inserted in the upper part of the building. Hidden away down the ¦ passage below the Institute's colonnade you can gain a most charming view of some sunny-gardened cottages. _, r, , . ,, „, „ _ This now-forgotten inn stood in the corner The Hole in the Wall Inn. of the Market Square. It was the proud possessor of a quaint-looking sign-board, which is still preserved in our Museum. The sign has evidently been painted on what was once a much larger board, for on the back there is still to be seen the lower half of a carved dragon, with the date 1741. Mr. John Watson, in his admirable series of articles contributed to the papers on our Local Inn Signs, and to which I am indebted for much information, says that the name is believed to have originated from the hole made in the wall of a debtor's prison, through which the poor prisoners received gifts, such as money or broken meat, from the charitably inclined. This inn at one time was owned by a Captain Marshall, Golden Lion Inn. T r. who altered its name from the Golden Lion to " The Pack," hanging out for his sign a pictorial representation of his ship; but at the close of his tenancy the inn was again known by its former name. Mr. J. E. Hargreaves has in his possession an interesting picture of the bar parlour painted about the year 1840. Sitting in an ancient-looking chair, with a glass of grog before him, is a portrait of Robert Postlethwaite, then in his 79 year, attired in an old-fashioned suit, with gaiters and brass buttons. Around him are thirty of his associates, whose united ages amounted to 2,168 years, and their average ages to more than 72 years. After the Restoration, Richard Frankland, an Market Place Chapel. eminent minister ejected from Auckland, became a master of an Academy at Natland. Besides teaching during the week, he preached in his own house and in the neighbourhood as opportunity offered. There can be little doubt that to the labours of this pious man the Presbyterian congregation in the Market Place (now Unitarian), as well as the Presbyterian 306 KIRKBIE KENDALL. congregation at Stainton, owe their origin. Old Gabled House between "Golden Lion Inn' and Chapel. The baptismal records in the chapel date back to the year 1687. Where these early dissenters worshipped at first is not known, in deed the history is lost until June 16th, 1702, when the Rev. William Pendlebury, M.A., a son of the Rev. H. Pendle bury, M.A., ejected from Holcombe, in Lancashire, was ordained. The Rev. Dr. Caleb Rotherham commenced his ministery in 1706, and it was during his charge that the chapel was erected in 1720, to accommodate 200 persons. The funds for the building were raised by voluntary subscription, and by the 'sale of the seats as freeholds, which long continued to be pri vate property. Rotherham's ministerial training was received from Dr. Thomas Dickson, who conducted a flourishing academy at Whitehaven. When Dickson removed to Bolton, in Lancashire, Rotherham himself continued the classes here in Kendal until his death in 1752. The Monthly Repository for 1810 contains a list of fifty-six Divinity students educated at this academy, some of whom afterwards became eminent scholars and preachers. The first mention there is of this chapel in the parish register, is in the year 1725, when on April 24th Thomas Gibson, of Stramongate, was buried at the Presbyterian Meeting House. In the same year, October 2nd, Sarah Ogton, STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 307 of Fincal Street, was buried here. In 1726, January 23rd, Thomas Strickland, of Stricklandgate, was buried at the same place. In 1728, April 30th, John Foster, a soldier, was buried at the Presbyterian Meeting House ; and the last entry is in 1729, July 5th, William Dawney, of Fincal Street, was buried at the Presbyterian Meeting House. The oldest monumental stone is on the south side of the chapel, and is inscribed as follows : — " Here lieth ye Body of William Dawney, late of Kendall, Who departed this Life the 5 of July, Anno Dom. 1729." It was during the time of the Rev. Dr. Rotherham's ministry that the English Presbyterian Church gradually changed their doctrine, and Rotherham seems to have been one of the leading teachers of these distinctly Unitarian tenets. For a long time their doctrine was strictly evangelical, but with successive ministers from being Calvinistic in sentiment, they became first Arian in their views, until finally they adopted the creed of Socinus. Four years after Dr. Rotherham's death, in 1752, his son, also named Caleb, succeeded him in this church, and continued to minister till his death in 1796. The parsonage in front was erected in 1777 of dressed limestone. In the early years of the present century the Rev. James Kay, one of the ministers of the New Street Chapel, having changed his views regarding Believer's Bapfisim, resigned his pulpit, and began business as a dealer in earthenware ; but shortly afterwards he commenced a new cause under the name of the " Unitarian Baptists," or dippers. They met for worship in the Caledonian Room referred to on page 302, and baptized their followers early on Sunday mornings during the summer, in the Castle Mill race or at the Ancho rite's well. In 1820 Mr. Kay left Kendal for America, and his people joined the Market Place Chapel, then fast becoming identified with the Unitarian creed. It must be remembered that prior to the 'Tolerating Statute' of 1813 no Unitarian place of worship could be legally established, and consequently, where chapels were erected by that denomination, the trust deeds of necessity omitted to specify the tenets for the promulgation of which the building was raised, or the teacher endowed. Had it been otherwise, the property would have been forfeited, and the founders, avowing dissent from Trinitarian doctrines, would have become liable to severe punishment. The congregations were called Presbyterian, not on account of their doctrine, but solely in reference to their scheme of church government of independence, 308 KIRKBIE KENDALL. After the Rev. Caleb Rotherham, junr., the Rev. John Harrison became minister for 37 years, from April 15th, 1796, until his death on the 6th of May, 1833. The Rev. Edward Hawkes, M.A., was appointed pastor on the 15th of June following, and served the church for another 33 years, until his death on January 15th, 1866. During his ministry the chapel was re-roofed, the walls stone-finished, and an organ was purchased from the old Roman Catholic Chapel. The old building still retains its two heights of windows, but the leaden casements have now entirely disappeared. The doorway which formerly opened into the " Mason's Arms " Yard has long been walled up, but I believe there is still a right-of-way into Stramongate. The Rev. J. E. Odgers, M.A., formerly of Liverpool, preached for the first time on the 5th day of January, 1868, and on the 27th of December following the Rev. John. Russell, of Glasgow, was ordained the misister to fill the vacancy caused by Mr. Odgers removing to Bridgewater. Russell resigned April 5th, 1874. The Rev. W. Birks followed, and was succeeded by the Rev. James Macdonald, who took a great interest in the restoration of the chapel in 1882. At this time a schoolroom was added at the side for a cost of some £500. On the two down spouts are the dates A.D. 1720 and A.G. Edward Holme, M.D., of Manchester, but a native of Kendal, and a descendant of one of the founders of this chapel, bequeathed at his death in 1847 £1,000, the interest of which was to be paid for ever in aid of the minister's salary. In the papers, letters and journals of the late Mr. William Pearson, a well known naturalist, of Borderside, in Crosthwaite, edited by his widow (who was sister to the late Mr. John Greenhow, of Anchorite's House, and sister-in-law to the late Rev. E. Hawkes), is the following allusion to the chapel under notice : — "This quiet, secluded building, though situated in the heart ofthe town, is overshadowed by trees, beneath which rest many worthies of departed times, one of whom, James Patrick, was the prototype of the " Wanderer " in the Excursion. A plain mural slab outside the east wall of the chapel— which was his spiritual home— bears this inscription :— " Near this place are buried John Patrick, of Barnard Castle, who died May 10th, 1763, aged fifty-one; Margaret, the daughter of James and Mary Patrick, who died November 20th, 1767, in her infancy ; James Patrick, of Kendal, who died March 2nd, 1787, aged seventy-one." When staying in Kendal with his friend Mr. Thomas Cookson, the Poet Wordsworth himself was STRICKLANDGATE OR THE NORTH ROAD. 309 an occasional worshipper along with the family at this chapel, and thus became acquainted with the minister, the Rev. John Harrison, and with one of his congregation, the well known blind mathematician and botanist, Mr. John Gough, with the delineation of whose remarkable powers and character, the poet enriched his Excursion, and in turn has by the touch of genius imparted to them a lustre that will not fade whilst English literature shall endure." _ , . ... At the head of the old Post Office Yard and opposite to Anthony Askew. rsr the " Football Inn " was born the celebrated Oriental linguist and classical scholar, Anthony Askew, M.D., the collector of the " Bibliotheca Askeviana," being christened at the Parish Church on May 7th, 1722. He was educated at Sedbergh, and took his M.B. degree at Cambridge in 1745, where he commenced his medical practice, and became M.D. in 1750, after which he went up to London, and it is said of his house in Queen's Square that it was crammed full of classical books, curious MSS., and rare editions ; the passages were full, and even the garrets overflowed, and yet the book appetite of Dr. Askew was not satisfied. He died at Hampstead, February 27th, 1774, aged 52. _ , _ , This inn was situated at the head of Bran- George and Dragon Inn. thwaite Brow, and kept in 1761 by Joshua Craven, to whom the supporters of Mr. Lowther and Mr. Upton were offered to go to feast during the elections. I have by me a handbill of the sale of Garnett Folds, Skelsmergh, to take place on Friday, the 8th day of September, 1775, at the house of George Craven, innholder, at the sign of the " George and Dragon," in the Market Place, in Kendal. His widow was landlady from 1813 until 1821. She died in her 94th year, having been at the inn for upwards of 54 years. St. George, the patron saint of England, is a very common sign. uo THE FELL SIDE. BEFORE passing further along the North Road, it is necessary to cross the street, and follow up Entry Lane to the Fell Side. This steeply sloping ground is a perfect wilderness of steps, terraces, and lanes, and I would advise those who are short of time to avoid the temptation of taking a short cut through the network. Perhaps the central feature of the whole is that All Hallows Chapel. ,,,,,., , , , beautiful chapel, which stands as a veritable oasis on the south side of Syke Lane. It stands upon the site of the old workhouse, a building which is said at one time to have been Kendal's original Town Hall. It contained no marked architectural feature, if we except a large circular projection at the back, which contained a ricketty staircase, but on knocking off the accumulated coats of whitewash above one of the fireplaces, the initials and date " G. G. M., 1696," were discovered in stucco, though I • fancy the building must have been older than that. The late Alderman Fisher says that a photograph was taken of the building, but I can find no trace or remembrance of it anywhere. The foundation stone of the present chapel was laid on July 22nd, 1864, by the late Archdeacon Cooper, assisted by Mrs. Barnes, widow ofthe former vicar, and the Rev. John Scott. Both the chapel and the cottage were built by subscription, and were opened on Ash Wednes day, 1866, by the Archdeacon. Christopher Gardner gave a new bell on the 23rd day of March, which bears the inscription, " I. Taylor & Co., 1866," and William Henry Wakefield gave the organ, which was opened on the 13th of January, 1869. The old chapel stood opposite to the " Black Swan Inn," in the All Hallows Lane. As marked on Speed's plan, it stood on the lower side of the field called Chapel Close> and it is supposed to have been taken down at some early period in order to widen the road. The late Alderman Fisher possessed two paintings of this old building made before it was taken down. Dr. Burn also mentions that a house once stood here, bearing the arms of Roos upon it. THE FELL SIDE. 3" The Syke. A stream called "The Syke," so named, I can only suppose, because the descendants of Bill Sykes and his dog made free use of it for washing away the stains of their night's work, used formerly to flow in an open channel down Syke Lane to the head ofthe King's Arms Yard, and thence to the Maude Meadow drain. But after the building of the chapel, the neigh bourhood had per force to trim itself up a bit, put on its best apparel and cover over this sweet smelling savour. " Barracks." On the opposite side )r,.\ of the lane stands jkmg down ounBin Ql°i* another building of about the same ancient date as the Poor House. Lat terly it has been altered out of all knowledge, but it still bears the name of the " Barracks," in which the overseer formerly had his office, and where the paupers are said to have had their weekly pittances doled out to them on the Sunday afternoon. The Sepulchre. Adjoining Chapel Close is an isolated cemetery called " The Sepulchre," where some of the Society of Friends have been buried. Painted now on the locked-up door are the words : — 1666. FRIENDS' BURIAL GROUND. 312 KIRKBIE KENDALL. It seems from the following ghostly letter that in 1863 the graves were levelled down, and the slabs re-arranged : — " A Supplication from ye Sepulchre. — To ye ancient friends now dwelling in Kendall. — Respected Friends, — On ye afternoon of ye sixth day of ye month then reckoned ye third, but now I believe known of mortals as ye fifth, and in ye year of salvation, a thousand six hundred and seventy nine, it came to pass that a chosen and devoted but despised few, carried my poor remains for burial, in this well-cared for then, but now, long neglected spot of ground, which I fondly hoped, yea verily believed was henceforth to become ye last ' house of my pilgrimage ' on earth. My friend Thomas Jackson, Mayor of the town, together with ye Aldermen and Bur gesses, came in a body lo my obsequies, for grievously lamented, as had been ye withdrawal of so prominent a member as myself from ye ancient faith, nevertheless they had not ceased to respect me. Conspicuous among ye aldermen, from his commanding presence and manly bearing stood that venerable and 'orthodox Christian' my 'most antient' friend William Guy of Watercrook, and though bending beneath the weight of more than fourscore years, still of noble and majestic mien. When probationers here below, friend William and myself agreed to differ on religious matters, but oftentimes now take sweet counsel together during our noctivagant wanderings amongst ye familiar scenes of our pilgrimage in your vale of tears. William's appearance to ye Churchwardens a few years by-past cannot have been for gotten by you, after his bones had been ruthlessly expelled from ye Steeple-house and cast into ye Quagmire behind ye Castle, and his unpretending but celebrated 'brass' torn from its 'customed site.' During all those troubles it was I who was his ghostly counsellor; and friend William — grateful soul as he alway was — in return, now standing at my elbow cheers me on. Ever since ye above sixth day of ye fifth month, 1679, my bones have reposed in peace, if not altogether in quietness, for truly I must aver that I have oftentimes been disturbed by ye noisy tramp of youthful dancing feet over my bed, but a stout door and a good lock might any day have prevented this and so I thought lightly of it; and it was not till some years agone that, when ye stone which covered my ashes and on which were engraved my two simple initials ' G. B.' was broken and removed to do duty as the door step, that I felt moved to animadvertize and be wroth withal, but I restrained myself. I held my tongue and spake nothing, I kept silence, yea even from ' bad ' words, but it was pain and grief to me. On sixth day morning last, however, it came to pass that I was suddenly startled by an unusual movement in close propinquity to my ' narrow-house,' and was incontinently THE FELL SIDE. 313 exuscitated from my slumbers by ye sound of ye mattock and spade in ye hand of some rude mortal digging and delving at ye roots of ye tree which had vegetated over my grave and ye graves of those around me. I saw that they were doomed — and I heard an order given to raze our little mounds to ye earth and convert this solemn sepulchre into a common kitchen garden 1 1 This was more than I could regurgitate — ye very stones ' would cry out of ye wall and ye beam out of ye timber would answer it ' if I spake not. Stay your hands therefore, dear friends, I beseech you, take ghostly counsel I warn you, save ye remnant of my gravestone I implore you, preserve it I supplicate you, in memory of one who, as much as in him lay, when a sojourner here below, both by word of mouth and stroke of pen bore his humble 'Testimony ' to ye truth as held by ye people then scornfully called Quakers. Desecrate not this sacred spot I entreat you, let me and ye many defunct round me peacefully ' sleep ye sleep that knows no wakening till ye trumpet shall sound, and ye dead shall be raised incorruptible, and we shall be changed,' needing no longer ye few feet of earth of which verily it striketh me we are begrudged. Stay your hands, otherwise you may look for another visitation. Until then farewell. From your true friend. The shade of him who whilst on earth was called of man by ye name of GERVASE BENSON, J. P. From ye Sepulchre on ye Fellside, at 12 of ye clock at Midnight on ye four and twentieth day of ye third month and in ye year 1863." This most successful Sunday School was corn- Fell Side Sunday School. . menced in the year 1833. At first both sexes were taught together, but in the year 1840 a separate girls' school was estab lished. The present school-house was built in 1851, and four more class-rooms were added in 1859. Situated on the Low Fell Side is the curious old Grandy Nook Hall. , ., ,. , . , , , , , building, which lor many centuries has been known by the name of Grandy Nook. For a short time, however, it went by the name of the " Wool Pack Inn," being kept by a certain " Willie Whittle," probably a corruption of Whitwell, and having on its sign the following doggrel : — " Ye droughty souls wi' drought beset, And good ale to slack it do lack, Oh come wi' your whistles to wet To old Willie Whittle's at t' Woo' Pack." 3H KIRKBIE KENDALL. On the end gable wall is a stone tablet bearing the name Grandy Nook, and at the back there is a stone with the initials of Thomas and Katherine Sandes and the date 1659, being precisely the same date as that on the coat of arms over the en trance to Sandes Hospital. Then on the front there is an oak panel bearing the initials and date F. T. x I., 1669. but to whom these belong I cannot say. The building was re stored in 1864 by John Fisher. There is a Grandy Nook at Keswick and else where in the district, evidently having some common meaning Print Mill. There was formerly a print mill on the Fell Side, where George Braithwaite used to print by hand with brass rollers, woollen bed and window curtains, which had been previously dyed elsewhere. The printing resembled a sort of water mark. The site was on the south of the next-property-but-one to the " Syke." The mill was discontinued at the beginning of this century. _ „ „ In 181 5 a deed was entered into between Henry Bradshaw Bagmire Hall. J J 7 , ofthe one part, and George Mason and Nicholas Wilson 01 the other part, for the conveyance of "all that piece or parcel of ground situate lying and being on the Ffell-side in Kirkby Kendale whereupon Bagmire Hall formerly stood." THE FELL SIDE. 315 The inevitable public-house abounded here as elsewhere. There was one at the foot of Middle Lane, close to the new church, called the " Gardeners' Arms," kept by a character, John Graham, whose nickname was " Domino." On the west side of Low Fell Side stood the " Rule and Square," which was kept at one time by old Mally Birkett, who in February, 1882, attained the 101st year of her age. The inn was mostly frequented by weavers and old soldiers, many of whom, having fought in the Peninsular War or at the Crimea, would sit by the fireside and spin their yarns of what they had seen and done. Mr. John Watson says that " from this neighbourhood scores of men responded to the recruiting parties, which in those days paraded the streets with bands of music and streams of ribbons in search of youths to fight in the wars." An anecdote is told of one fellow, bellicose to a degree, who, on hearing the military bands, drove his foot through the miserably poor web he was weaving, shivered his loom to atoms, and rushed out shouting, " I's off ta feight auld Bonny," and he went too. The old " Hyena Inn " was peremptorily sold by auction in August, 1843, as "all that newly-erected inn known by the sign ofthe ' Hyena.' " On the Low Fell Side, nearly opposite to the King's Arms Yard, there once stood the famous " Black Cock," with all its sporting records in the old English pastime of cock fighting at the Whitsuntide " mains." VII. Stiueklandgate, continued. " Man made the town, and therefore fellowman May garner there, within its dusky yards Of pent-up life. Where wanes The light of present being, while the vast ' Has been ' awakes again, — the being of the past." 319 STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. „ s_ But to return to Stricklandgate, I would notice the quaint corner of Jackson the saddler's shop. There seems to have been an external staircase here leading to one of the open galleries above. W 1 k V A After the pack horses were dispensed with for the transfer of wool, large heavy waggons took their place, and these being packed up to a great height necessitated the unusually wide and high entries that are so noticeable in this quarter. See illustration on page 286. And oh, what cumbersome waggons they were, revealing indeed a pitiful tale of the state of the main roads in those days. Each wheel was tyred with three iron bands placed side by. side, giving a width of twelve to fifteen inches. Four strong-looking dray horses drew the conveyance, under the care of a driver clad in a blue linen kirtle which covered him from neck to foot, and like the shepherd's smock was wondrously wrought in ornamental needlework with white thread on the breast. _. Bartholomew Noble tells us that the " Corpus Christi " was played X neat re. in Kendal in 1604, but where this took place we do not know. These plays were suppressed in the beginning ofthe reign of James I. Thomas Ashburner built the first known play-house in the year 1758 on the premises that are now occupied by the Working Men's Institute. For a while histrionic art flourished in Kendal, so much so indeed that the management of the theatre in the Market Place, deeming their premises too small, sold them to the Wesleyans for a chapel, and built a new play-house up this Woolpack Yard in the year 1789. Here they seemed to flourish more than ever, and I have beside me a collection of handbills, which are most interesting, but too numerous to mention. The hall was beautified and repaired in September, 1818, by Mr. Howard; the manager of the Theatre Royal, at Lancaster, and from henceforth it became known under the more dignified name of the 320 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Theatre Royal, Kendal. So here the play continued until the influence of the Rev. Wm. Whitelock and his celebrated poster was felt, when the love for the play decreased, and in 1823 the proprietors again were glad to sell their building, but this time to the Presbyterians. Two curious instances of the stage preparing the way for the church, or take it as you will, the good over coming the evil. Fortunately I have a reprint of the poster above referred to, from which I extract the following : — THEATRE. "The Great & Terrible Day ofthe Lord." By Command of the King of Kings. AT THE THEATRE OF THE UNIVERSE On the Eve of Time, will be performed THE GREAT ASSIZE or the Day of Judgment. THE SCENERY which is now actually preparing, will not only surpass everything that has yet been seen, but will infinitely exceed the utmost stretch of human conception. There will be a just Repre sentation of All the Inhabitants ofthe World, in their various and proper Colours, and their Customs and Manners will be so exact and so minutely delineated, that the most secret Thoughts will be discovered. THIS THEATRE WILL BE LAID OUT AFTER A NEW PLAN and will consist of a PIT AND GALLERY. The gallery is very spacious & the Pit without bottom. To prevent inconvenience there are separate doors &c &c &c &c. ACT 1. Of this Grand & Solemn Piece will be opened by AN ARCHANGEL WITH THE TRUMP OF GOD. ACT 2,. A PROCESSION OF SAINTS In White with Golden Harps, accompanied with shouts of joy & songs of praise. ACT 3. AN ASSEMBLAGE OF ALL THE UNREGENERATE. To conclude with an address by THE SON OF MAN. STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 321 • The play, however, seems still to have held a certain amount of favour in the town, for I have amongst my collection of play bills, a dozen or more, con cerning a theatre opened in 1824 in the Crown Inn Yard, and again in 1826 concerning " a neat little theatre " opened in one of the rooms of the " Crown Inn," all of which are headed either by "The desire of" or by "The per mission of the Mayor." Following on in chronological order I have bills announcing plays to be held at the theatre at the bottom of the Old Shambles, which bear dates during the year 1828, and then at last we come to the new theatre, which was opened by Thomas Simpson in June, 1829, in connection with his " Shakespeare Inn." A stage which had but an existence of only five years, although patronized by such artists as Kemble and Kean. _ __ The Presbyterian Church commenced, as has Presbyterian Church. . . , already been said, in the Market Place Chapel, but as in subsequent years the congregation became more and more identified to the Unitarian creed, a few of the still faithful presented a petition in April, 1763, to the Associate Presbytery of Edinburgh (who seceded from the Estab lished Church of Scotland in 1733), " praying that ministers might be sent from Scotland to preach the gospel in Kendal." The petitioners numbering 31. Their request being granted, a chapel was built on the Beast Banks, where Monument House now is, and near to the monument which commemorates the Revolution of 1688, where the burial ground may yet be seen, though closed in 1865. To this church the Rev. James McQuhae was ordained in 1764. McQuhae preached with great acceptability, and not a little success, for a period of eight years. He was a man far in advance of the age in liberality of sentiment, and refused to confine his ministry exclusively to the sect with which he was connected. Accordingly, having attended and taken part in the ordination of a minister in some independent congregation, he rendered himself liable to the censure of the synod in Scotland. To this ordeal he refused to submit, and throwing off what appeared to him "a yoke of bondage" embraced the independent form of church government. Without informing the Presbytery, McQuhae announced to the people the next Sabbath morning that he had changed his views ; an elder, James Smith, thereupon rose and argued the question with him, but McQuhae proposed to end the discussion with prayer. To this Smith objected, because they were not in a fit frame of mind, but proposed that a Psalm should be sung, which being done, the 322 KIRKBIE KENDALL. congregation separated. Next day the worthy elder wended his way to- the Presbytery in Scotland to lay the matter before them. Thus, in 1772, with several of the members and a sum of £100, did McQuhae resign, and start the Lowther Street congregation. The second minister, Thomas Simpson, was ordained in 1774, but the inability of the people to pay his stipend led to his resignation in 1780. Suffer ing from defection and death, with no increase of their numbers, the remnant were forced to sell the property in 1806, and wall off the sacred enclosure ofthe dead. At this crisis Abraham Williamson, of Keswick, visited Kendal, and hearing of their straits gave £100 to the cause, with which the building was re-purchased, only to be re-sold again in 1812. See passage on page 83 under the heading of Monument House in reference to this. For the next 12 years a minister occasionally came from Scotland, preached, baptized, and encouraged the formation of a new church. At first the people assembled in a large room at the "Crown Inn" (recently the lecture room ofthe Y.M.C.A.), the approach being by a flight of stone steps in the yard, but the drama having ceased to be patronized, the congregation opened the theatre in the Woolpack Yard in the month of November, 1823, and worshipped there with the gaudy scenery hanging around them. The reward to their faithful spirit, after this, soon came upon them. With kindly loans for £550 they purchased the property, and expended nearly an equal amount in fitting it up as a chapel to accommodate 450 persons. At the close of the service on the first Sunday ofthe congregation meeting here, some wag wrote the following over the front door : — " If, reader, you have time to spare, Turn o'er St. Matthew's leaves, You'll find that once a house of prayer Became a den of thieves. But now the times are altered quite, Oh, Reformation rare ! This modern den of thieves, to-night Became a house of prayer." To this newly-formed congregation the Rev. Alex. Marshall was called in January, 1825, and ordained on the 13th of July. Marshall died in 1828, and the fourth minister, the Rev. Robert Wilson, was appointed, and ordained in the December following, who greatly interested himself in a noble effort to pay STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 323 off the existing debts. After a ministry of four years Wilson left Kendal, and the Rev. H. Calderwood, an excellent preacher, was appointed in his stead. He was ordained in 1834, and during his pastorate the congregation flourished. At this time a schism amongst the Friends led many of them to join this church, who for a short period greatly strengthened the pastor's hands, until they left again to form the community known as the Plymouth Brethren. Calderwood then resigned the charge to become a missionary to South Africa under the London Missionary Society. The church was now two years without a pastor, until the Rev. John Guthrie was appointed, and ordained in February, 1840. Shortly after this the controversy regarding the extent of the Atone ment and kindred subjects began to agitate the Secession Church. Guthrie along with Morrison warmly supported the " new views," and causing much dissatisfaction by them to the church here, he was removed by the Synod in 1843, and with him 100 out of the 130 members of the congregation left, for whom Zion Chapel was built. "• It was at this renewed crisis that Mr. Inglis came from Perth, preached the gospel, and encouraged the people to persevere. He was ordained to this church in August, 1845, where he remained for nearly 13 years, resigning in January, 1858. The Sunday School was commenced in 1826 under the auspices of the Rev. Robert Wilson. The " Woolpack Inn," with what have once been capital Woolpack Inn. . , . , , ,,..,, ri, rooms within and large stabling in the rear, is one ot the very ancient hostelries of the town. It was arranged probably not so much for travellers as for commerce, and, as its name implies, was the great centre for the carriers who brought traffic to Kendal by pack horses, carts and waggons. It is likely that the premises were rebuilt in 1781, as a spout head bears that date. Close to this commercial centre Thomas Sandes, the ' wealthy merchant, lived, who built for himself in 1659 his gallery-fronted " House of Manufacture," schoolroom and library on the site of what is now the " Elephant Inn," having his warehouse for Kendal cottons behind. The old building was taken down, and the present " Elephant Inn " built about 1820, with a sign depicting a huge painted elephant. 324 KIRKBIE KENDALL. In a cottage at the rear is still to be seen an oak screen with a carved frieze, bearing the letters S. 1651, for Thomas and Catherine Sandes, and T. K. the room divided off by this screen from the lobby is also oak panelled and carved with other dates and devices, which are unhappily buried beneath a cheap cottage paper. In 1811, the Court of Conscience was held at Brother Speight's, the " Elephant Inn." Robert Speight was a Sergeant at Mace to the Corporation of the Borough for twenty years. Daily Conveyance between Kendal fy Penrith. % BETTY WALKER ID ETURNS thanks to har Friends and the Public, for the many Favours already conferred, and hopes ¦"" fy attention to merit a continuance thereof. She begs leave to inform, them that her Waggons leave Penrith every Morning, and arrive at Kendal the same Evening ; and a Waggon leaves Kendal every Morning, which arrives fit Penrith the same Evening ; from each place Goods are forwarded by regular Carriers to tne adjacent Country, and all Parts of the North and South. Goods intended for their Conveyance may be delivered to — JOHN HARGREAVES, White Horse, Cripple Qate, London. .JOHN LING, Birmingham. MivHUNT, Sheffield. JOHN HARGREAVES, Manchester, Rochdale, Haslingdale, Bury, Liverpool, Preston, and Lancaster. JOHN SIMPSON, Wade Lane, Leeds. UNION COMPANY WHARF, Liverpool, by Canal. JOHN HARGREAVES, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Hawick, Langholm, and Carlisle. :J.-,BAXTER, Dumfries. s ^ s , The Proprietor will not be accountable for more than Five Pounds for any Box, Package, or Parcel, of any discrip- tron if under the weight of Twenty-eight Pounds., nor more than after the rate of Twenty Pounds per Cwt. for any Package of greater weight, unless entered of higher value, and an Insurance paid thereon, at the time of delivery. Kendal, March 1, 1813; Although it is not my purpose to deal in this book with the great manufactures for which the town became famous, yet I can scarcely pass by this largest of all the warehouses without a word concerning the Kendal cottons or coatings as they were styled, but which were in reality woollens dyed in green. Shakespeare (1598) alludes to them in his Henry IV., where he makes Falstaff say : " But as the devil would have it, three misbegotten knaves, in Kendal green came at my back and let drive at me." Camden (1551— 1623) STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 325 writes : " Kendale or otherwise as I wene Kirkby Kendale, is a place famed for ^excellent cloathing, and for its remarkable industry. The inhabitants carry forward an extensive trade for woolen goods, known in all parts of England." And Speed (1614) says : " This towne is of great trade and resort, and for the diligent and industrious practice of making cloath, so excels the rest, that in regard thereof it caryeth a supereminent name above them and hath great vent and trafncke for her woolen cloaths, through all the parts of England." Two hundred years later, John Housman in his Guide to the Lakes (1802) says that " There are now 12 houses in the Kendal cotton trade which together make about 1,200 pieces weekly, each piece containing about 24 pounds of Wool. Here are also eight principal linsey manufacturers." The goods were formerly carried periodically on pack horse, by the makers themselves, or were sent to London to be vended by the warehousemen among their customers, who visited the metropolis from different parts ofthe kingdom. Cornelius Nicholson says : " After the rise of the British Colonies in North America and the West Indies, the greater part of the Kendal cottons were sold to the merchants trading to those countries for the clothing of the negroes and poorer planters. As the colonies increased, and slaves multiplied, the demand for Kendal manufactures continued to increase till the intervention of the American War caused a total suspension of the export trade. Upon the cessation of hostilities it again revived, but our manufacturers not being able to keep pace with the improvements in machinery with those of Yorkshire, the latter interfered, and were gradually gaining advantage of Kendal, till the increase of American duties put a stop to the exportation. In process of time the change of fashion demanded a more elegant fabric of wearing apparel, and the celebrated ' Kendal cottons ' were degraded to the use of horse checks, flour-cloths, dusters, mops, &c. Linseys, which, for a number of years, were collateral with the cottons, after the decline of the latter, grew to be the staple manufacture of the place. This article was sent to Holland and Germany, excepting a finer sort which was made, and continues to be made, for home consumption." " The hosiers used regularly to attend the markets of all the towns, and at stated times all the villages and hamlets within twenty miles of the circumjacent country, to give out worsted ancr take in the stockings which had been knit during the interval betwixt each visit." 326 KIRKBIE KENDALL. In 1801 the average quantity of stockings made for the Kendal market, weekly, was in Ravenstonedale 1,000 pairs, Sedbergh and Dent 840 pairs, and in Orton 560 pairs. Adjoining was the " Green Dragon Inn " and Miles Lancaster Bank. . . Baldwin, the saddler s shop beyond, both of which were old oak-galleried houses of quaint architecture. Behind there was also a well- patronized bowling green, and Alderman David Jackson's warehouse and rope- walk. In 1799, John Wakefield, the son of the founder of the Wakefield's Bank, purchased the block whereon he built a new residence, and to it he removed the bank from its primitive quarters next Stricklandgate House. John Wakefield died in 181 1, but the bank was carried on here until the amalgamation with the Maude Wilson and Crewdson Bank in 1840 under the style of " The Kendal Bank." See page 37. Subsequently the property was disposed of by W. H. Wakefield, and has now become the property of the Lancaster Banking Company, who opened their branch here on November the 3rd, 1864. Pack Horse Inn. Further north we come to what was once a mass of cottage property, but now a well-built house, formerly called Brownsword House, being doubtless the resi dence of the family of that name, one of whom was Mayor in 1694, and an other Vicar of Kendal from 1658 to 1672. On the accession of James I. to the throne, whilst passing from Edin burgh to London, in August, 1617, he lodged a night or two here, and STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 327 knighted three of his suite on the occasion, viz. : Henry Mildmay and George Spencer, both sewers to His Majesty, and Francis Knightley, cup bearer, .because, it is said, he could not find any of the local inhabitants flattering enough in their welcome, to receive the honour he had intended to bestow. In old deeds, dating 1739, and in Pennington's table of 1802 and Taylor's of 1823, this house is said to have been used as a "workhouse for the poor" from 1725-1768. It then became the property of Benjamin Hurd, and was used by him as a woollen manufactory. After 1803, the Hurds turned the front 328 Y^80OT™«T* KIRKBIE KENDALL. portion of the factory into a public-house, which became familiarly known as "Ben Hurd's," and then as the " Pack Horse," doubtless by reason of its being connected with the numerous pack horses conveying the merchandise of early Kendal. The sign repre sented a horse with its packs, fairly adjusted, ready for a journey. The inn, however, was finally disused as such in 1855, when it became the property of the late W. H. Wakefield. Cornelius Nicholson gives the following table of pack horses that plied to and from Kendal, weekly, as follows, with their " hotts," or panniers, laden with local manufacture, and a musical ring of bells around the neck of the leading horse : — One gang of pack-horses to and from Kendal every week, of about .... One gang from Wigan weekly, about One gang from Whitehaven, over Hard Knot and Wrynose, about .... From Cockermouth weekly, about Two gangs from Barnard Castle, about Two gangs from Penrith twice a week, about 15 each, making One gang from Settle twice a week, about 15 each, making From York weekly, about From Ulverston, about From Hawkshead twice a week, about 6, making From Appleby twice a week, about From Cartmel twice a week, about From Lancaster, two waggons, equal to about Carriages, three or four times a week, to and from Milnthorpe, computed at 40 From Sedbergh, Kirkby Lonsdale, Orton, Dent, &c, about 20 20 18 20 15 26 30 3° 10 5 12 12 6 64 Besides 24 every six weeks from Glasgow. Total 354 STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 329 Generally four gangs were on the London road, two travelling through Lancashire, and two through Yorkshire. One set was every week in London, one in Kendal, and the other two on their road. The same horses went through the whole journey, and the number of each set was generally from fifteen to twenty. They were ten days in going, and the same in returning exclusive of one Sunday each way. Beside carrying packs, some of them occasionally carried passengers, and many a northern yeoman has accom panied the driver on foot to see London, and returned home again with the aid of an occasional lift. The owners in loading up reckoned a young lady as acquivalent to half a pack. ME AND MY WIFE AND DAUGHTER. Adjoining this is " Wade's Yard " or Hutchinson Place. It was ard 84. ^.^ ^ ^ ^^ Wade, card maker, and Mayor of Kendal in 1742-3, and remained in his family about 100 years. He bought the premises November 1722, of John Cookson for £80, arid from his diary I glean that he " laid out in re-building, &c, £297 12s. 6d., besides all malt (the treating of the workmen), and many more things, which I forgoot to poot down." He died in 1766, aged 76 years, having been twice married. 33° KIRKBIE KENDALL. At this yard end is a pair of strong oak door cheeks, which within living memory had a pair of large oak doors, which were regularly bolted at an early hour of the evening. And this was doubtless the practice in many ofthe yards in these good old primitive days. I have a handbill dated 1 6th September, 1823, announcing that the " Editor of the Kendal Chronicle, Tyras Redhead, respectfully informs the public that youths are edu cated at his school in Mr. Fishers' s Yard, Strick landgate, in all the useful branches of learning. Par ticular attention is paid towards their acquiring a correct knowledge of the English language, a sci ence too much neglected and too little understood ; nor can this be looked for, as in many instances the teachers themselves are totally ignorant of the idiom and grammatical principles of the language, commencing to teach without any requisite qualification and fulfilling the adage of Dr. Syntax." Yard 84. " And when a man's the scourge of heaven, To teach a school he's always driven." Here the universally-respected archaeologist, the late Alderman John Fisher, was born, and his father and grandfather before him. The house was built by a family of the name of Dodgson, wholesale grocers, about the year 1710, and purchased by Alderman Fisher's father, William, in 1806. No. 86. STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 33i Within is an oaken room and mantelpiece, which was John Fisher's " Old Curiosity Shop," where he kept his pictures, books, files of ancient papers, bric-a-brac, coins and tokens. In the cosy corner he would smoke and laugh in his own pleasant way, and look ing up from his book and big magnifying glass, would tell of his love for Kendal, her history, and all that be longed to her past, over which he loved to dwell with a great heart's affection. On a carved panel of this chimney piece there used to be the date and initials — D. I. A., 1710. but the panel was taken away in 1848. Stricklandgate House Museum. The museum stands upon the site of some old properties, where a family of the name of Rutson (shearman dyers) had their residence and business premises. One of them, Robert Rutson, was mayor in 1751-52, and his son, William, in 1772-3. Joseph Maude, whose family originally came from Sunderland, built this house as a residence for himself about 1776. The mantelpiece and grate in 332 KIRKBIE KENDALL. the Museum library, and in the old drawing-room immediately over, are particularly worthy of careful inspection, and the cornices and front door were thought very wonderful productions at that time. Here he lived till his death in 1803, Thomas Holme Maude, his son, who was mayor in 1799 — 1800, and again in 1813-14, also resided here many years. After another short occupancy it was leased in 1854 f°r 2I years to the Kendal Literary and Scientific Society, at a rental of £45, with option to renew for another 21 years, at a rental of £50. This Society was instituted in the year 1835, and numbered amongst its first hon. subscribers, Lord Brougham, Wordsworth, Southey,then Poet Laureate, Professor John Wilson, Dr. Birkbeck, Dr. Dalton, Professor Sedgwick, and many other honoured names. Their first meeting rooms were in New Street, in the house that had been temporarily occupied as the Bank of Westmorland. Outgrowing that accommodation, they removed to the old Roman Catholic Chapel (contiguous to the existing chapel), where the new Kendal Museum was opened in March, 1838. Still increasing and prospering, they procured plans from Messrs. Bowman and Crowther for an elaborate Gothic structure, which they proposed to erect on Miller Field. The scheme, however, was abandoned in consequence of this house becoming eligible, and to which they removed in 1854. The " Kendal Library," formerly an independent establishment in New Street, founded on November 5th, 1794, immediately became amalgamated to the Museum. The Kendal Savings Bank, which also had its quarters here for a long time, was established in 1815, and at its discontinuance in 1896 the directors purchased the property out of its surplus monies, and gave it to the Literary and Scientific Society. Nob 96 and 112 Where there is now a fruiterer's shop, there used to be a beerhouse under the sign of " The Fish ; " and still further to the north, there was until the year 1856 another house of refresh ment, known as the " Greyhound Frigate Inn." No 114 The well"remembered bakery adjoining was established about the year 1830, and was sold by John Willan in September, 1833. Here it was that Hartley, in the year 1841, practically illustrated the Corn Laws by placing two loaves in his window, to each of which was affixed a label. On one was written " Taxed loaf price 6d." STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 333 " Sad contrast you see, This is not duty free ; If you want to enlarge it, See that Corn Laws don't charge it." On the other, which was nearly twice the size, was written " Untaxed loaf price 6d." " To the Corn Law Repealer, And fair trading dealer; If the duty were off, Here's a sixpenny loaf." No 118. The substantial building now occupying the corner of Maude's Street was rebuilt about 1787 by Thomas Gandy, .shearman dyer, and Mayor 1784-5. Until recently there was an entry upon the south side, The Birthplace of Rev. Dr. Shaw. (Demolished 1897.) which in former days was divided into two. That on the south was known as Muslin Shop Yard, by reason of a muslin manufactory being established in some buildings behind in the year 1802. However, it was not successful, and only had but a short existence. The factory was taken down in 1839, when 334 KIRKBIE KENDALL. tbe two yards were thrown into one spacious entry, which has since been built over by the improvements made to this house. This street, which was opened out in the year 1897, caused the demolition of an old-fashioned gabled house, where Dr. Shaw, D.D., the famous orientalist, was born in 1693. At the time that Thomas Gandy built his house next door some dispute arose as to the " land mark," and Gabriel Shaw, a shearman dyer, and descendant of the doctor, in order to protect his rights against encroachment, placed a stone on the front of his property at the extreme south containing his own and his wife's initials : — S. G. M. Ius tuum tueri fas est sed ne ultra. 1790. Intending to say, " It is lawful to protect thy own property but not to go beyond." This inscription peeled off about 1853, and fell into the street. Gabriel was a good pedestrian, as we find from the Carlisle papers of 1801, that on June 30th, at the age of 63, he walked from Kendal to Whitehaven, arriving there at three p.m., did his business, and the next morning walked back again, none the worse for the expedition. He was huntsman to the then squire of Dallam Tower, and was killed September, 1816. Yard 143. There is a picturesque corner, well worth a visit, down this yard. „. „. . _ The Maude's Meadow drain, as it is now called, was The Dyer's Beck. then a portion of the dyer's beck. At the Municipal Elections of October, 1863, votes are solicited for Busher, the advocate of the drainage of Maude's Meadow. But this long vexatious question was not finally disposed of till August, 1864, when John Whitwell dug the first sod for the drain in Busher's Close, near to its outfall into the river. The beck, covered over about the year 1820, used formerly to be open on the west side of the street, and steps laid down to it from the pavement whereat the dyers used to wash their cottons. Passing along a mass of cottage property and the Jack Shop Yard, we come to the fine range of buildings which were formerly used as the woollen manufactory of John Wakefield and Sons. Near the entry to the dwelling-house was the primitive office of the bank, which they established on January ist, 1788. The court -yard was open to the dwelling-house and manufactory, and the dyer's STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 335 beck, which ran open across the street, was used, as I have said, to wash the yarn. The woollen business was continued by Jacob Wakefield until the year 1815. After his death on the 3rd of October, 1844, several great improvements and additions were made, and the old bank chamber was taken down in the year 1864. Mr. Wakefield being interested in the beer trade, opened an inn next door which was known as the "Black o' Moor" or "Labour in Vain" public-house; upon its sign was depicted a white man scrubbing a negro, hence the part title, " Labour in Vain." The site of this inn is now occupied by the drawing room of Lindum Holme. The rapid growth of the town, between the years St. Thomas Church. 1820 and 1835, necessitated increased church accommodation in this locality, to supply which this church, dedicated to St. Thomas, was built in the " Fell Field," at a cost of about £3,000, and with accommodation for 850 people. The foundation stone was laid August 4th, 1835, and the building was consecrated on July 5th, 1837. The tower rises to a height of 95 feet, and on the nth August, 1862, the old town clock (the gift of the Corporation) was placed within it. Over the chancel arch is the old painting of the King's Arms, which formerly hung on the chancel beam of the Parish Church until the restoration of 1850. Many improvements were effected and the church was reseated in 1867, and in the year 1897 the walls of the chancel were covered with mural decoration. Vicars. W. P. Hutton, ... July, 1837, to January, 1840. John Antes Latrobe, M.A., February, 1840, to July 1865. Hon. Canon of Carlisle. A member of a distinguished Moravian family. Author of " The Solace of Song," " Sacred Lays and Lyrics," and other poems. He resigned the incumbency through ill health, when he returned to Gloucestershire. The pulpit in the church was erected to his memory. Henry John Monsarrat, July, 1865. B.A. and Divinity Testimonial 1855, Deacon and Priest 1856, M.A. i860. Formerly senior curate of Parish Church of Cheltenham, 1861-1865. 336 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The Parsonage was erected in 1854. And tne beautiful row of beech trees above Maude's Meadow were planted by William Medcalf between the years 1795 and 1799, when he was acting as land agent to John Wakefield. „ „, , „ , The Sunday School was first held in the building St. Thomas' School. J b still called "The Factory," situated on the Fell above the Workhouse, on Sunday, August 2nd, 1833, under the superintendence of John Gandy. It continued to meet there until the present school premises were built in 1841. In January, 1838, an adult school was begun under the care of J. C. Braithwaite, "for scholars who feel themselves too old to be associated with boys in the schools." A most successful and inspiriting class, which became amalgamated with the school upon their entering into the permanent building. _ ,... This pleasantly-situated terrace of houses was built in the Town View. year 1831. _ . The Prison stands on the site of an ancient House of Correction, Prison. which, in 1776, is thus minutely described in the " State of Prisons," published about that time, by Howard, the philanthropist. " Only one room for men and women, 18 feet by 13 feet, with one window about two feet square, no chimney, no court, no water, no sewer. The keeper has a garden, with a salary of £6 10s. od. a year, no fees. The town prisoners are allowed six pence a day, the country prisoners fourpence." In a bill presented for payment to " Benj. Browne the High Conble of Kendall Ward ye 22nd of Aprill, 1720," there are a number of items such as — " Laid out by me miles Atkinson as under for Repairing of ye House of Correcon, December 18th, 1717. For 13 threave of Straw att 3d., 3s. 3d. ; 400 Spellks att 4d., is. 4d. ; Thatcher and Server 2 days 3s., = 7s. 7d." Another item is — " March 25th, 1719, paid for Repairing the Stocks which were broken up by a madman, 2s." "Att a meeting of the Mayor and Aldermen in the Moot Hall, this 19th day of April, Anno Dni. 1720, it is ordered that Mr. Alderman Dawfon be desired to take workmen along with him and view and infpect His Majtye's Prifon or Gaol within the said Burgh, and report to this Court what will be necefsary to be done at the said Gaol in order to make it sufficient, and what the same will STRICKLANDGATE— THE WEST SIDE. 337 cost. Itt is also Ordered that the Conbles of the said Burgh shall with all convenient speed Buy a pair of ffetters for the better securing of ffellows which shall hereafter be sent to His Majtye's Gaol within ye said Burgh, and to bring ye Charges thereof in their Accots." " Att a meeting of the Mayor and Aldermen held for taking into Confidera- tion ye weaknefse' of the gaole of this burgh comonly called ye Court loft & ye impofsibility of making it fufficient to detain prifoners in clofe & safe custody & that therefore it is necefsary to have a ftrong gaole as foon as money can be raifed or obtained for that purpofe, doth therefore & and for the indempnity of ye former the prefent & the future mayors of this burgh declare grant & agree that the defence of all & evry action or actions wch fhall or may hereafter be brought agl them or any of them for ye efcape of any def or def 5 in any fuit or fuits formerly or now depending or wch may hereafter be depending in the Court of Record of the faid burgh fhall be defrayed out of ye publick revenues of the Corporation to wit untill fuch new ftrong gaole fhall be provided." On January 25rd, 1776, there were two men and one woman imprisoned, and it would seem that in March one of the men managed to get off: — " Broke out of the Gaol, John Buchannan, alias John Macdonald, who pretends himself to be a smuggler, by birth Scotchman, aged 32 years, and wears his own black hair, &c, &c." On September 18th, there was only one, a deserter; again three years later, on May nth, 1779, when Howard visited a second time there were no prisoners at all, which seems a fortunate thing, for the one room comprised the whole building, that served to accommodate the keeper, his family, and the prisoners, who all lived together. A cheerful home indeed, with its two foot window ! With the low thatched roof it must also have been a trifle insecure. Over the door was a stone, inscribed with the following distich : — " If people woulde be goode and live in feare The justices woulde never send them here." The present prison was erected in 1785-6 and nearly re-built again in 1817, and the inspector's office and work rooms were added in 1829. Mrs. Fry and her daughter visited the house in September, 1818, and expressed her satis faction at these improvements, but "regretted the want of instruction for the prisoners." In 1894 it was closed as a civil prison, but has since been used 338 KIRKBIE KENDALL. by the military authorities. It occupies an area of 2,000 square yards, fenced by a thick wall, in some places 42 feet high. In primitive times, when Miles Hayton (or " Miley Honey ") was keeper, he used to take the prisoners for an airing, and allow them to play football on the Tenter Fell, but when it was time to return he used to say — " Noo, lads, you mun follow me, or if ye don't, I'll lock ye out ! " Another story is told of this simple governor, that, having to convey a female prisoner to London, upon alighting from the coach at their journey's end, the prisoner contrived to give him the slip, whereupon he ran about the London streets, crying — " Hev you seen ought of Mall Ward fra Kendal wi' a linsey-woolsey petticoat and poor-house bedgoon on." Here is the official police notice, extracted from the Newcastle Courant for June nth, 1791 : — GENERAL HUE AND CRY From the Police Public Office, Bow Street, London. ESCAPED. From the Swan Tap-room, in Lad Lane, about four o'clock on Saturday afternoon, Mary Ward, convicted at the General Quarter Sessions, at Kendal, Westmor land, in December, 1789, and ordered for transportation. Whoever will appre hend and secure the said Mary Ward, in any of His Majesty's Gaols, shall receive a reward of three guineas from Miles Hayton, keeper of the House of Correction at Kendal, aforesaid. The said Mary Ward was born in Westmor land, is 50 years of age, about five feet high, lusty made, darkish complexion, black hair, full face, had on a brown linen gown and a black bonnet, an old drab-coloured cloth cloak, and a pair of handcuffs fastened to her wrists when she escaped. It was, however, to no purpose, for it is said that Mall got clear off, and was seen selling apples in London long afterwards. Preserved in the Museum is a brank or scold's bridle, which came from our prison. The instrument may be described simply as an iron framework which was placed on the head, enclosing it in a kind of cage. It hinged on either side (f) and at the top (c) and was fastened at the back (e.) In front, an opening (b) was left to admit the nose of the woman whose misfortune it was to wear it. And below a plate of iron (a), which either sharpened or STRICKLANDGATE-THE WEST SIDE. m covered with spikes, was so situated as to be placed in the mouth. This could not fail to pin the tongue and effectually silence the noisiest brawler, for if she attempted to move her tongue in any way whatever, it was certain to be The Brank. The Brank in use. shockingly injured. On the left side was a chain (d) by which the victim was led or attached to a post or wall as required. I can find no mention of the last time that this revolting instrument was used, but generally throughout the country it ceased to be used about the year 1824. " A prison is a house of care, A place where none can thrive, A touchstone true to try a friend, A grave for men alive. Sometimes a place of right, Sometimes a place of wrong, Sometimes a place for jades and thieves, And honest men among." House of Correction Hill. At one time the inhabitants of these houses disdaining the appellation of the House of Correction Hill, gave to the row the more cheerful name of Belle Hill. On the west side was formerly the "Brown Cow Inn." We find in 1737 an estate advertised to be sold at the house of John Hudson, at the sign of the " Brown Cow." Shaw's Brow, built upon vacant ground in 1819, was named after Thomas Shaw the builder, at the top of which was for a time a public-house bearing the name of " The House of Lords." 34° STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. No. 29. It is little realized by those who traverse along the busy Market Place upon what an elevated ground it stands, and what a beautiful landscape of the Kent valley is seen from many of its upper windows. But harder still is it to realize that these houses in days of yore were the residences of the leading gentry. In front of the chemist's shop, at the corner of Cheap- side, may be seen the arms of Richard Crowle, viz., Sable, a chevron between three mascles Or, two and one. This Crowle was Recorder of Kendal from 1752-1757. The family originally came from Hull, and resided some time at Cunswick Hall. Here stood, together with the adjoining houses to the north, the last of those interesting memorials of a bygone age, the wooden-framed galleried-houses, with their massive vertical and transverse oaken beams rudely " sett vpp," and firmly bound together by oak pegs or trennels. Cornelius Nicholson says, that before the days of the umbrella, these galleried houses were so com mon in Kendal that you could walk dryshod, under the cover of them, from the Newbiggin ; to this Strick landgate end. Good old Ken dal truly may be considered ~jzr- ~&~ — —=- — — =ri-z- — ¦ one of the -^ — — dampest spots Jonas Hanway— the first Englishman to carry an umbrella. STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 34 1 in Christendom, but at least it must be acknowledged that she has done her best to protect the passer by, as far as possible, from the rain. Where is there such another town with so many covered entries on either side of the public way. Caught in a sudden shower, one has but twenty paces or so to run at the most, before a friendly shelter can be met with, and who is there amongst us that has not oftimes had cause to bless these quaint old yard ends ? At the beginning of the XIXth century a firm of Waite and Jackson carried on here a large drapery establishment, and in the year 1818 I find that James Noble occupied this building as his surgery. In 1822 the premises were re-built altogether, when the galleries were superseded by the present limestone front. William Tindall had a chemist's shop here about 1848, until his death in 1852, when a firm of Armistead and Shepherd followed. They were succeeded by Matthew Burton, who caused the doorway to be removed to the corner of the building. It is said, but upon what authority I cannot say, that Burton christened the side lane " Cheapside," as an indication of the very low profits that he in his shop was prepared to make. No. 35. Yard 33. No. 31. No. 31. Upon the site of this building there used to be, until taken down in 1822, some quaint old shops, as illustrated here. 342 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The first was "Pot Wilson's" china shop, where an extensive earthenware establishment was carried on for a long succession of years by William Wilson. He also occupied the adjoining premises on the left as his dwelling-house, one of the front rooms of which he appropriated to a display of the glass and china department of his business. This picturesque-looking gallery, as well as the whole building, had remained intact since the period of its original formation, and was of the double or two-storied character, the lower story of the gallery being ascended by the usual flight of stone stairs, and the upper by a wooden stepladder. None of the windows to the front were glazed, but were provided with clumsy-flapping shutters, which divided horizontally in the centre, cunningly "contrived a double debt to pay," at night answering the ordinary purpose, but during the day the higher half being lifted up inwards, the lower half falling down outwards, served as a bench or shelf for the display of the commodities kept within. Wilson was preceded in the occupancy by Johnny Taylor and his dame Jinny, who tenanted the same for many years ; Johnny following the calling of a chair-maker and wood-turner, and his wife pursuing that of dealer in baskets and swills. This brace of worthies have each of them acquired a certain share of local celebrity, the former being still remembered in Kendal by the proverbial saying — " Try it out, said Johnny Taylor," and the latter is the often-quoted lady who used to boast of her abstemiousness in " going to bed supperless every night of her life," taking in place of that meal, as she was wont to say, " nobbut a bit o' bread and cheese and a quart o' yal ! " When the old pot shop was being taken down a fine sixpence of the reign of Queen Elizabeth was found, bearing date 1566, it had most probably been lost by some early occupier, and I should not be surprised if it pointed to the fact that this ancient timber building was of a date anterior to this reign. No 35 It: wil1 be S6en by the ulustration tnat Richmond's shop once bore a resemblance to the old Moot Hall. Here in former days Betty Tyson kept a draper's shop below, and her good man, John, kept a cobbler's shop above. The building was taken down in the year 1833, and the bay window here depicted still does duty in a shop in Branthwaite Brow. White Horse Inn. The neXt buildin& was for a Jong time the " White Horse Inn." We find it advertised for sale by the STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 343 Executors of the late Adam Walker, on March 2nd, 1821, as a "commodious and well-accustomed inn," with a " good brew house, granary, and excellent stabling for 33 horses, with other outbuildings, now in the occupation of John Walker as tenant." In 1832 William Wilson was the tenant, and in November, 1854, when in the occupation of John Kelly, all the domestic effects, brewing vessels and innkeeper's stock-in-trade, &c, were sold up. The Philharmonic Society held its meetings here. I have before me an interesting borough notice signed by John and Robert Harrison, Mayors, and dated November ist, 1820, regulating the cloth and fustian dealers and other chapmen for placing their stalls during the quarterly fairs. It seems that like the present market stalls, in Highgate and Stramon gate, these dealers were allowed to stand out with their wares in Stricklandgate. The cloth stalls from the White Horse Yard, and the fustian stalls from the Pack Horse Yard, northwards. These quarterly fairs and marts were the events of the year. Peripatetic traders visited the town, and country folk, for miles around, flocked in and bought clothing and goods to last them till the next similar occasion. With side shows they were entertained — -wild beasts or bearded women, six-legged calves or merry-go-rounds. The shopkeepers had great roasts of beef in their back rooms, and plenty of beer for the free use of customers to feast at will. For three or four days the town devoted itself to jollity and a little business. All will remember how Billy Tyson spent his " hunneymoon " at one of these festivals. " Billy hed been ta Kendal afower, but nivver ev a fair time, en beath Mary Jane en him war fairly gloppened wi' t' scooars a foke et cum streemin o' ways, when tha gat ta Stramongeat brig, tha cud hardly stir fer foak cummin fra en ya spot en anudder, en when tha gat up in t' middle et toon it wos war en ivver, en sic a crush en a gabble ! T' coo fair wos partly ower, en t' maisters en t' men war cummin doon off t' banks reddy fer t' hirin'. Billy thout tev hissel, ' Wy, if this is Kendal fair, I waddn't cear hoo seean I was oot on it, en I'se sewer its nea spot fer Mary Jane.' Thear wos a girt rough fella steppin on her taaes nobbet a minnet sen, and seea he ses ta Miley, " Wy, noo then, lets away get this hunneymoon, en then I don't cear hoo seean weep off heeam again.' ' Stop a bit,' ses Miley, ' Ya hevn't seen t' shows on t' New Rooad, ner cheeap Jacks, ner t' strikin machines, tha pay a penny ta hev a shot wi ther dubble neaf et a kind ev a buffer,' ' Oh ' ses 344 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Billy, ' if that's it I waant gang ta see sic fooalment et nout, I'd rader see a baar spot.' " But now all this has gone, with many another merry time. The coming of the railway did much to kill their importance by making the journey here too easy and common. Instead of the quarterly purchase and the time of general settlement in money matters, people now-a-days order their goods now, then, or anytime, and pay for them when they can. No. 45. Here Christopher Browne, apothecay, lived. He was born in 1703, married Katherine, daughter of Alderman Thomas Rowlandson, November, 1730, was mayor 1734-5, and died July 20th, 1747. Nos. 49 to 57. down. We next come to the old lath and plaster house for centuries known as " The Fold," and which has recently been pulled &"1" P^riclfW (fc Nos. 49 TO 57. At the head of some steep steps there was formerly a long gallery open to the street, and out of it lead the doors into the different parts of this floor. Here in a large room thaf could hold 300 people the Independents first met STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 345 after their secession from the Presbyterians (1772 — 1781), before their New Street Chapel was erected, and here also the Wesleyans came to worship after leaving the Market Place, whilst awaiting the erection of their chapel at Stricklandgate end, in 1808. Then the room was converted into a billiard room and ball room, much frequented by the tradesmen and others in the town. Samuel Bolton, painter, occupied this building till his death in 1852, when it was purchased by his old apprentice, Alderman John Robinson. Seven Stars Inn. This house was re-built in 1830 by John Colman, upon the site of the original " Seven Stars," existing in 1797, a very low two-storied building, which had for its sign the Masonic emblem. When John Thompson was tenant in May, 1842, all the domestic effects and innkeeper's stock-in-trade were sold. Near the front of the inn was a horsing stone of three or four steps, being the last in Kendal. No. 65. In the recessed corner was formerly the " White Hall," and I find from an advertisement that both it and the neighbouring "Black Hall " were put up for public sale on October the 4th, 1869. We now come to the historic " Black Hall," probably the best * ' residence in the town, at the time when Henry Wilson, nomi nated the first Alderman in the Charter of Queen Elizabeth in 1575, occupied 346 KIRKBIE KENDALL. it. For a long time it continued to be the residence of the family, till the year 1733, when the heiress, Miss Frances Wilson, married Francis Drinkel. Their daughter married a Mr. Stephenson, who assumed the name of Standish, and who held the hall till its sale in 1869 to Rainforth Hodgson for £650. In 1579 Henry Wilson, for misconduct, was deprived of his burgesship and his office of justice of the peace. He was buried in Kendal Church on the 29th August, 1592. He presented to the Corporation the two splendid silver flagons that we read of, and which must oftimes have flowed with spiced wine smoking hot as the custom then was, but which were during the dark days thought to be of so little worth that the Corporation exchanged them for a set of common candlesticks. The ancient building was greatly modernised about 1810, especially by the introduction of sash windows, the only noticeable external feature now being the real old Westmorland chimneys, massive and circular, smoking their pipes in peace, but even these were re-built about 1820. One of the upper rooms is paved with cobbles. It is now a brush manufactory, and may be known at once by the sign of a bristly hog, elevated over the doorway. Inside it bristles also with numerous rooms, and gloomy crannies literally crammed with bristles, bristles everywhere. The sign of the " bristling hog," as like the sign of the clog of the clog- maker, the umbrella of the umbrella-maker, and the smoking man of the tobacconist, is one of the few still remaining of the ancient tradesmen's signs put up to bespeak the trade carried on within when few could read, and the mere epithet " a brush shop " would be unintelligible. The brush manufactory business was established in the year 1838 by Grant and Hodgson. The productions have always been highly reputed for their excellent qualities and general characteristics. The works are fitted up with all the best appliances for rapid production of all classes of work, and considerable quantities are turned out both for the wholesale and retail branches of the trade. n •„•*• „..,., «, , When the old room in Castle Street Primitive Methodist Chapel. became too inconvenient for the use of the Primitive Methodists, they built their present chapel in the Black Hall STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 347 Yard, the foundation stone of which was laid July 14th, 1870, by the Mayor, J. J. Wilson. The stone was placed at the south-east corner, and in the cavity beneath were deposited a bottle containing some small current coin of the realm and a copy of each of the three Kendal newspapers. As an instance of the failure of a long-sighted policy, it seems that when the chapel was erected there was a feeling that before long the Black Hall Croft would become a main thoroughfare ; for as early as January nth, 1817, correspondents urge, in the local papers, making a road between Stramongate and Stricklandgate through the croft. The Sunday School was commenced at Castle Street in 1823. _.. Here lived Thomas and Elizabeth Wilson. The former, who owned No. 71. Kentmere Manor, was an attorney, and died in 1756, aged 82. His son Thomas, who changed his name to Fenwick, was born here in 1729, was M.P. for Westmor land from 1768 to 1774, and Recorder of Kendal from 1766 to 1777. James Dowker, attorney, whose an cestors were Quakers in Crook, married Jane, daughter of Thomas Wilson, and lived here also for some considerable time. Scratched upon the leaded panes of the kitchen window are still to be seen the inscrip tions—" James Dowker, 1781," " James Dowker, Trinity College, Cambridge, 1782," "John Dowker, 1782," with "Thomas and John Wilson." Cornelius Nicholson came to live here in 1845. 34« KIRKBIE KENDALL. Adjoining is the well-built house which No. 73. J bears on the head of the leaden spout the I7sir Strickland Arms, and the initials J " F, which doubtless designate John and Frances Strickland, the builder of this house and his wife. John, who was Mayor of Kendal 1717-18, is supposed to have been a lead merchant. His wife Frances was the daughter of Edward Backhouse, of Morland, and seems to have been curiously connected with the 24th of June, for it is quaintly recorded on a brass plate in Kendal Church that she was — Born, | 1 1690, Marry'd, I the 24th June, \ 1708, Bury'd, ) (1725. No. 77. No. 75. No. 73. No. 71. This house is said to have been the town residence of the Stricklands, of Sizergh, and it is not improbable that when it ceased to be useful in this STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 349 respect, it fell to a descendant of a younger branch, who engaged meritoriously in trade, the estates following the elder line. T_r On the back side of the house there is a spout head which is marked I. M. 1732. for John and' Mary Harrison. He was recorder from 1699 to s.715, and grandfather of Myles Harrison, " the blind lawyer," and recorder from 1777 till his death in 1797. Harrison must have bought it of John Strickland. It is said that Myles's father had four wives, and when joked on the subject, instead of apologizing, he, like another blue beard, would reply, quoting old Bishop Thomas of Lincoln, " If I survive I will have five." Whether he had a contract then pending, conditional on events, is not recorded in the files of papers he left to his executors to destroy. Following a Miss Dyson, Dr. Thomas Gough came to reside here sub sequent to the year i860, and towards the close of his life. Born in 1804, he was the eldest son of John Gough, the " blind philosopher," and nephew to Dr. Thomas Harrison, with whom he was placed as an apprentice. After the death of Harrison in 1835, Gough stepped into his shoes, and trod them with an even step. He rose at once into full confidence and practice, and, from the first day of his professional career to the last, earned the gratitude and enjoyed the esteem of his numerous patients. But Gough has a name to live beyond his profession. With the able help of his friend, C. Nicholson, he founded the Kendal Natural History and Scientific Society, became curator of the Museum, and was the collector and donor of that remarkable set of fossils for which our Museum is justly noted. He died July, 1880. „„ , There is every reason to believe that these two houses once Nos. 85 and 87. J formed the " Cordwainer's Arms." The cellars still retain stone benches for the barrels of beer. On the door leading down are painted C C the letters ^ ' and up on the first floor was the dancing room, which has only been divided off into two rooms within the last six years. In the illustration of Yard 89, the charming old back gable of the inn is seen, with that curious window placed in the angle, and the old stone stair leading up to the dancing saloon. The old picturesque building (No. 4) down the yard, is said to have been the brew-house. 35° KIRKBIE KENDALL. Down the yard also is the well-known rope-walk. It was early established by William Kitchen, and when he failed in March, 1857, Thomas Camm came to Kendal and took over the work, which he carries on so successfully to this day. Yard 93. Over the entry into this yard there is one of the few date stones that still remain. By whom the •YfTOB^-^milflNDGfflr ff house was built is unknown, but there are some reasons for supposing that the initials refer to Thomas Middleton, who was Mayor of Kendal in the year 1699. No. 95. The adjoining house is rendered famous as being once occupied by Bonnie Prince Charlie, when he advanced into and retreated from England in 1745. Here he held a levee, but history is silent as to whether any of the disaffected Kendalians honoured his court, or whether the episode of King James the First was repeated on this occasion. (See page 327). The Duke of Cumberland in close pursuit, having enquired where the Prince slept, came and slept himself on the same couch. The next day witnessed the defeat of the Scotch at Clifton Dykes, near Lowther. The house must then have been comparatively new, as the spout head bears the date 1724, and no doubt the Prince was attracted hither by the thought of its possessing, what we hear so much about in these days, " all the STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 35i latest and most modern improvements and appliances." Doubtless also Justice Thomas Shepherd, who occupied the house at this time, must have been an additional attraction, as it is said of him that in " dress and manners he was a perfect gentleman." Thomas Holme, who was Mayor in 1741, and again in 1755, subsequently lived here, and after his time it was occupied by the Wakefield family before their removal to Sedgwick. James Gandy, "the punctual," resided, and had his business premises in the next house. It was evidently an ancient house with a massive kitchen fireside, and must have been a place of some note. Report says that it was the residence of the Duckett family, of Grayrigg Hall, and we have the inventory of Mistress Ann Duckett, of Stricklandgate, Kendal, dated October 18th, 1558, which speaks of a portable equipment for mass, with vestments and altar stones. Her wardrobe was somewhat rich, containing black velvet sleeves, damask velvet sleeves, a brown kyrtle, a red petticoat, and a white one, with two silk hats, &c. The old title deeds prove that the premises belonged to them certainly in the middle of the XVIIth century, and the mills behind are still known as the Duckett Mills. Cross House. Adjoining this and to the north, formerly stood the Strickland gate Cross House, as before it stood a stone cross where the devout performed their devotions on entering or leaving the town by this northern road. Standing loose in a yard behind there are still three circular blocks of freestone, evidently part of a column, shaft, or pedestal, but whether flJBr Cross House (removed in 1887.) 352 KIRKBIE KENDALL. or not these formed a portion of the ancient cross it is difficult to say. The early house was removed about the year 1804, and another erected in its place, where James Noble lived for some time. The northern half has now been removed to make room for the entrance into Sandes Avenue. North of this was a substantial house projecting somewhat on to the pavement, which was built in the year 1734. It has now entirely disappeared C. for the entrance to the Avenue. On the spout head were the initials R. L. 1734- for Roger and Lydia Chamley. It was partly re-built by George Wilson, and W. in the yard behind there was a lead cistern with the initials and date G. M. for 1770. George and Mary Wilson. Subsequently Esther Gough lived here, and died in 1837, being the mother of the unfortunate Charles Gough, who perished on Helvellyn in 1805 His remains were not discovered till three months after wards, when they were found guarded by his constant attendant, a faithful terrier-bitch. Sir Walter Scott has immortalised the tragedy in his well- known lines : — " Dark green was the spot 'mid the brown mountain-heather, Where the Pilgrim of Nature lay stretch'd in decay, Like the corpse of an outcast abandon'd to weather, Till the mountain winds wasted the tenantless clay. " Nor yet quite deserted, though lonely extended, For, faithful in death, his mute favourite attended, The much-loved remains of her master defended, And chased the hill-fox and the raven away." Miss Wilson altered and improved the house very considerably after Mrs. Gough's death, when what was left of the ancient woollen warehouse was razed to the ground. s , _ Leading down to the river there used to be a narrow lane here, known as Sandes Close, which, in some documents relating to the division of the town into wards " for the better relieving and ordering of the poor," dating back to the end of the last century, is printed Senhouse Close. But in West's Antiquities we find that Edwin Sandys " granted some land to the Free Grammar School, and which is still known as Sandys Close or Field." How it got into other hands is not clear. STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 353 The history of this avenue and bridge, which has proved of great con venience to the inhabitants of this part of the town, is curious reading in the local papers. About the year 1867 a memorial was presented to the Corpora tion by the ratepayers and property owners of Stricklandgate asking them to make the road. The subject was frequently discussed in the Council, and as often deferred to another day. About the year 1876 Captain Braithwaite Wilson's property in Sandes Close came into the market, and was purchased for £2,460, but it was not until December, 1883, after some 15 years of talk, that the Corporation timidly determined that if £500 worth of land were sold the Corporation would make the road down to the river. In January, 1884, a sale was held, and of course sufficient land to more than cover this amount was quickly sold. Another full year was then allowed to pass by, until February, 1885, when a Local Government Board inquiry was held, and then, eighteen months still later, the foundation stone of the bridge was laid. This was an interesting little ceremony performed on the 13th day of September, 1886. After prayer by the Ven. Archdeacon Cooper, Alderman George Foster Braithwaite presented to the Mayor, Richard Nelson, a box containing an illuminated record of the stone laying, the names of the valiant members comprising the Corporation, a copy of Dr. Paget's sanitary report for 1885, an abstract of the Corporation accounts for the past year, copies of the Times, Standard, Daily News, and Manchester Guardian for that day, the current copies of the Westmorland Gazette and Kendal Mercury, Wilson's Household Almanack, together with each of the copper and silver coins of the realm. " Pro Regina et patria et pro bono publico." The Mayor then placed the box in a cavity of the foundaton stone, and covered it with mortar, amid cheers. In the corner made by the projection of Vipond's bake- "T' Bell Neak." house, at the entrance to Jerry Wane's Yard, is a place, which, till the property was re-built by Wane in 1806, was called " T' Bell Neak." Outside were seats made of blocks of blue stone, upon which the Stricklandgaters "most did congregate" to gossip and hear the news, and where the old men on sunny afternoons did doze and sleep. There is a tradition that formerly a bell hung there, and hence its name ; but for what purpose the bell was hung is not known. On the site of the small grocer's shop was a public house, in days gone by called the " Lords and Commons." 354 KIRKBIE KEN D ALL. In a poster dated April, 1864, announcing the sale of this inn it is described as the " Strickland Arms or Sawyer's Arms," lately in the occupation of Samuel Airey. In the last will of Edward Whitehead, dated 23rd July, 1732, Busher Close. „ , , , . „ . „„, ,, , , , ,, we find the bequest of all that Close called or known by the name of Busher Wife Close, alias Dyers Close, lately purchased by George Craister, and one parrock known by the name of Busher Wife Parrock." This building was formerly a spinning house or Jack shop used by Messrs. Wakefield, who converted it into an inn about the year 1823. In 1847 we find the property mortgaged for £600, and in 1848 in order to meet this sum it was then sold in public auction, a proceeding to which it was again subjected to in September, 1871, by an order of the Court of Chancery. „ , Whitfield came to Kendal during the time of the Scotch Wesleyan Chapel. . Rebellion, in 1745, and preached in the Market Place. Having heard of the loyalty of the town and the large number of recruits that it had sent to the royal army, he commenced his sermon, on one occasion, by saying " Oyez, Oyez, Oyez, ye loyal men of Kendal, having heard with what readiness you have enlisted under the banners of His Majesty, King George, to defend him and his throne against all Enemies, I am proud to come among you, since I also hold a commission, not from any earthly protentate, but from the King of Kings, with power to enlist you under the banners of the cross, and lead you to triumph over the world, the flesh, and the devil." Again on June 22nd, 1750, whilst on a preaching tour through England, he came here and spoke, it is recorded, to several thousands in the Market Place. In a letter written on the same day to a friend he says — " The people have flock'd to hear the Gospel, like Doves to the windows. I have preach'd here to a great multitude, go to-morrow, God willing, set forward for Whitehaven." Among some curious entries in the registers of Tunstal Church, near Kirkby Lonsdale, was found the following : — " In the year 1751 the Methodists settled and established their doctrines at Kendal, which is a doctrine contrary to reason and scripture." On April the 9th, 1753, John Wesley visited Kendal, and in his journal says — " I preached there in a large convenient room (the weather STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 355 not allowing me to preach abroad) where Mr. Ingham's Society used to meet. I was disgusted at their manner of coming in and sitting down without any pretence to any previous prayer as well as at their sitting during the hymn, while not one (although they knew the tune) sang with me. At the second hymn every person stood up and most of these sung audibly, and the greatest part of the audience followed us to our inn, nor did they leave us until we went to rest." Again on June 25th, 1761, Wesley rode from Keswick to Kendal, and says — " A few years ago the fields here were white for harvest, but the poor people have been so harassed by seceders and disputers of every kind that they are now dry and dead as stones ; yet I think some of them felt the power of God this evening." In 1765, coming north again, he says " that on April nth we rode on to Francis Gilbert's at Kendal, where there is now a real work of God. The genuine Gospel has taken root, and services are consecrated to God." Then we come to the autumn of 1787, when the worthy Stephen Brunskill, of Orton, knowing that there was not another local preacher within twenty miles of Kendal, and feeling a very keen desire to preach here, made a request to the Mayor for leave to preach in the open Market Place. This earnest request seems to have been readily granted, and we are told that many people flocked to hear the Word preached by this eminent local preacher. A curious interruption is recorded of how on one occasion, whilst Brunskill was warning the large audience that " if they did not amend their ways, they would rush to hell in waggon loads," an old waggoner, named Bet Craiston, quickly responded by saying, " Whya, whya, Steven, that's o' reet enough, but wha's to bring t' innocent horses back, I wonder ? Tell me that, if thoo can." However, in consequence ofthe inclement weather, a Sunday came when the good man was obliged to tell his people that for a time, at least, the services would have to be discontinued, unless they could find some room to meet in. This announcement caused great distress, until a Mr. and Mrs. Barlow, being desirous of having " preaching in the town," volunteered to give two guineas a year, if the rest of the flock would raise the necessary four guineas a year extra, wherewith they could rent the old play-house in the Market Square (now the Working Men's Institute). From the Market Place the congregation removed to " The Fold," in Stricklandgate, until a chapel was erected for them on the present site to accommodate 700 people. It was 356 KIRKBIE KENDALL. opened October 30th, 1808. The choir gallery was altered and the vestry enlarged in 1852, and it was entirely renovated in 1883 to accommodate 818 worshippers at a cost of £4,000, the congregation meeting in St. George's Hall during the progress of the work. It has now a handsome facade 55 feet in length, built of the grey limestone from the old building, and dressed with Prudholme stone. There is also a lecture room capable of seating 200 persons. The burial ground attached is now closed. During the years 1787 to 1790 Kendal was served by travelling preachers from the " Dales Circuit." From 1791 to 1794 the Barnard Castle Circuit ministers paid fortnightly visits, after which time preachers came from Lancaster until the year 1805, when Kendal was made the head of its own Circuit. The Sunday School was opened in September, 1814, when eight or nine boys attended in the morning, and fifteen or sixteen in the afternoon. There were no girls in attendance for some weeks, but the number of scholars steadily increased, so that in 1826, when the school was only twelve years old, there were upwards of 200 names on the books. The first superintendent was Edward Burton. Until 1820 writing was taught in the school. It is interest ing to note that the managers were the first to give a school treat to keep their boys from going to the Kendal Races, and also that they first adopted in 185 1 the plan of taking their scholars to Levens Park for their annual treat. , , „ „ Containing, at one time, about 160 acres, used to be called Kendal Fell " Dob Freer."* The Corporation, about the year 1683, in memorialising the King for the renewal of their Charter, prayed at the same time for certain additional privileges and benefits for the town, and particularly urged the following plea, viz.: — "There is adjoining the town a parcel of waste ground called Dob Freer, which is all the common pasture that is belonging to the town, and is no more than a hill full of rock and stones. The fee and soil thereof doth * Freak is a Saxon word, and fria is Icelandic, from both of which we obtain "free," "freeman," "freedom," &c, whose substantive meaning is " a liberty" or common right. No doubt the word was applied to the Kendal Fell Lands, which were left open to the public when property became consolidated. There were also freah-lands on the east side of the town as well as on the west, so that as a distinctive name to this common we get Dub (Celtic Dubh) or Dob, most probably by reason of existing water springs. STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 357 belong to the Crown, but is of little or no advantage to His Majesty, neither is worth to the town above £5 per annum, but might be of greater use or benefit to us if His Majesty were pleased to grant us the soil and inheritance thereof." This plea, however, was not granted, and it was not till the seventh year of King George III., 1767, that an Act of Parliament was obtained for inclosing " Kendal Fell for the use of the poor there, and for cleansing and enlightening the streets of the borough," excepting the High and Low Tenter Fells, which shall not be ploughed up, but reserved for the use of the shearman and manu facturers whole and entire, and the Bowling Fell, which shall be left open for the inhabitants to walk upon. In 1824, that delightful promenade, the Serpentine Walks, was formed mainly through the efforts of forty subscribers. For a great many years sixpence was charged for admission, and neat beds of flowers bordered the footpaths, but in 1849 the walks were thrown open to the public, and these bright glimpses of cultivation immediately vanished. The Act contained, however, no provision for selling any of the lands, or for granting any building leases, and as a demand for building sites at this end of the town increased, a further Act was obtained in 1861 giving the power to grant such leases for building purposes not exceeding a term of 99 years, and also to sell land for the purpose of making roads, provided that sufficient land be set apart for recreation and for the purposes of drying clothes, and provided also that no part of the Serpentine Walks, nearly 18 acres, shall be sold leased or exchanged, but shall for all time remain appropriated for the purposes of public recreation. It was planted with trees in 1790. ,„ „ , Previous to the passing of the Act of 1767, there seems to Workhouse. , have been no systematic plan of poor relief. According to tradition the first workhouse was on the Fell Side, and the paupers had their weekly allowances doled out on Sunday afternoons. But two years after the passing of the Act the present workhouse, described as " a neat, airy, and pleasant building, large enough to contain 80 poor persons," was built in 1768, Richard Peddar, the architect, receiving two guineas remuneration for his plans and model. Truly, the architectural profession must have been a paying employment in those days ! Part of the walling contract was let to Thomas Copland, a 358 KIRKBIE KENDALL. trustee, and another part to Thomas Kennedy, who was Mayor, a Knsey manu facturer, at 2s. id. per yard, but what they had to do with contracting for walling we cannot tell. The Kendal Fell Trustees found the timber, and Joseph Thompson, when at Liverpool, was desired " to buy what Baulk and deals he judges proper and suitable." Slating cost iod. per rood to lay. , It seems that Mr. Architect Peddar was so satisfied with the remuneration of his work that he again drew plans for an additional wing in 1776. The vagrant office was established in 1818, and in the following year we find this entry: — "Vagrant Office, Kendal, May 14th, relieved during the week 13 men, six women, and six children. Amount of relief, including lodgings, 10s. 8d." Assuredly the overseers were not extravagant in those days ! Days, remember, of misery, affliction, and demoralisation following the wars. Multitudes of soldiers, marines, and seafaring men had been sent adrift, and it would seem that the campaign against " beggars for the country's welfare " in Kendal became almost as serious a pre-occupation as had been the campaign against Bonaparte. Burgh and Townf hip of 1 Kirkby in Kendal. ) NOTICE IS HEREBY GIVEN, That there are in The WORK-HOUSE of the faid Town, A Number of BOYS AND GIRLS, Ready to be put out as PARISH APPRENTICES. Thofe Perfons defirous of engaging any of them, may apply to Charles Waide' Mafter of the faid Work-houfe. N. B. With the younger Part of them, a Premium will be given. KENDAL: Printed by W. Pennington. Copy of Handbill. A committee room was added in 1823, and fever wards in 1829. Our present master will be interested to hear that his first predecessor entered upon STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 359 office at a salary of £20 per annum. The Poor Law Union under the Act of 1834 was brought into operation in Kendal during the year 1836, when 58 townships were incorporated as the " Kendal Union." Blue Buildings. The " Blue Buildings," skirted by Strickland Place, HER Majesty QUEEN CAROLINE. Chapel Row, and Caroline Street, were erected between the years 1820 and 1822, being the outcome ofthe " Union Building Society," the first of its kind in the town. The shares were chiefly taken up by the Liberal or Blue party, in order to procure county votes for the support of Henry (since Lord) Brougham against the Low- thers. William Jennings, the grocer, of Jenning's Yard, Highgate, was the secretary to the society, and architect of the buildings. Caroline Street was named after the unhappy Queen, whose cause against the House of Lords the Blue party so earn estly espoused. The first intention was to build upon both sides of Caro line Street, but the ground on the. west side was, instead, sold by the committee to the Fell Trustees* that they might iso late the poorhouse, and provide a site for an infirmary in the event of the town being visited by any infectious epidemic. The committee, however, reserved to themselves on the boundary of their property, a site for a wall fountain opposite to Cross Street, over which they erected an arch, and .dedicated the pump to the tenants of the Blue Buildings, The Lords having on Monday last carried the second reading- of the Bill for imposing Pains and Penalties, Degradation and Divorce on Her Majesty, our Gracious Queen Caroline, by a trifling majority of 28, THIS IS TO GIVE NOTICE, That Petitions will be immediately prepared by a Com mittee for the Signatures of the Inhabitants of Kendal and other parts of the County of Westmorland, to the Honourable the House of Commons, against receiving this odious and unconstitutional Bill from the House of Lords. Lords for the second reading of the Bill, Against it . - - 123 95 Majority 28 Petitions are preparing from all parts of the King dom to the House of Commons against receiving this Bill. Kendal, 8th Nov. 1820. Printed by Richard Lough, Finkle. street, Kendal. Reduced Copy of Poster. 360 KIRKBIE KENDALL. as the inscription says — " For Ever." When " for ever " reached its finality and for why, I cannot find out. At the corner of Cross Street there used to be another " Lords and Commons " beerhouse, and in Strickland Place there is still the " Oddfellows' Arms."^ , „ , The old Dockwra or Dockwray Hall, which, by the way, Dockwray Hall. , in the hey-day of its glory, must have been a very fine building, is now unfortunately non est. One barn alone remains, and the lands are rapidly being covered with villadom. Speed depicts the hall on his plan as surrounded by a high curtain wall similar to those usually found enclosing the manor houses on the border. Herein was the private oratory dedicated to St. Anne. All history concerning the hall and chapel has vanished with the building itself, and the only entry that I can find concerning it, is of one William Gilpin, steward to Alan Belingham, of Levens, who purchased from the latter certain rents belonging to this chapel of St. Anne's, of £3 7s. 8d. a year at thirty years' purchase. Also his will, dated 1561, in which he bequeaths the same to the poor of Kendal. Of the ancient Dockwra family we know more, and to me, the most interesting of them all, was one William Dockwra. It seems that in the year 1683, Robert Murray started a penny post for the conveyance of letters between the different parts of London within a radius of ten miles. Soon after he assigned all his rights and property to this William Dockwra, who carried on the business for a considerable time with much success. This, however, brought him into conflict with the Duke of York, upon whom and his heirs had been settled in 1675 the whole of the Post Office revenues. The case was tried in the Court of King's Bench, and went against Dockwra. In the next year, however, he was appointed under the Duke, as comptroller of the district post, and his hand stamp, " Penny Post Payd," is the oldest postage stamp known. The words are placed in a triangular frame surrounding the letters T. W. E. The only other reference that I have to the hall is a Will as follows : — STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 361 " In the name of God, Amen, the eleventh day of March, Anno 1697, I, William Morland of Dockwray Hall, being weak in body but of sound mind and memory (praised be God for ye same) and knowing ye immortality of this life, doe make this my last Will and Testament in manor and forms following, (that is to say) (first I commend my soul to Almighty God my Creator and own all my sins, saved by ye pretious death and merritts of my blessed Saviour and Redeemer Christ Jesus I give, devise and bequeath unto my good friends, William Curwen of ye Burrough of Kirkby Kendall, Richard Pindar of Dockray Hall in ye said County of Westmorland Esq., Richard Washington, Jonathan Thompson and Thos. Wilson all of Kirkby Kendall aforesaid and their heirs and survivors (together with Hillside and Straw berry bank in Hutton-i'-th'-Hay, and lands at Mintsfoot). All that messuage and tenement commonly called or known by the name or sign of the " White Lyon " together with all the Shopps and appurtenances thereto belonging and I place special trust and con fidence in them, the said William Curwen that they the said William Curwen shall with all convenient speed after my decease in open sale or otherwise sell all the said (properties at Hillside, and Mintsfoot and the White Lion Inn etc.) for the best price they can and out ofthe monies raised by such sale to pay and discharge all my just debts that I am owing to any person or persons whatsoever, if the said sale will so far extend, but in case the monies raised by the sale thereof will not extend to the payment and satisfaction of my just debts then my Will and mind is that the said William Curwen do sell so much of my demesnes and lands belonging to Dockwray Hall as will pay and satisfy my just debts etc. etc." Before the construction of the Green Road this old building, ' together with the barn (recently converted into the Green- bank stable), stood alone amidst the fields surrounding Dockwra Hall, and in all probability formed a portion of this ancient estate. Here also is the Horncop {Horn-cup) well, that indispensible adjunct to all the manorial dwellings of the past. In recent years the house has been very considerably enlarged, but there is conclusive evidence that it at first only consisted of a parallelogram measuring some 26 feet by 15 feet, containing the hallam and a couple of bedrooms over. The gable walls are three feet six inches thick, the roof is constructed of great unhewn oak trees, and the ceilings are plastered upon rushes. To this aula must have been added, as necessity required, a kitchen wing, with another bed room over, and an oaken staircase leading to the upper floor. In this secluded retreat the Roman Catholics found a convenient and safe place wherein they celebrated Mass during the Reformation period. Peter Newby, the poet, was born here in 1745, and in the first volume of his poems there is an ode of 30 stanzas written in 1786, from which I extract the following :— 362 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Hail ! clean, delightful, calm retreat, Of ev'ry virtue once the feat, Where pureft merit, without pride, For many a year did erft refide, Where honefty and worth once dwelt, And many a heart their bleffings felt, Drooping to thee I turn my mental eye, Reflect — indulge my heavy thoughts, and figh. What tho' no turrets grace thy name, Thy fimple front no notice claim, Tho' all my anceftors were poor, And thou no hall, but cot obfcure; Tho' all in ruins round thee lie, The fymbol of my deftiny, And tho' to thee I give my parting tear, Still to my hearing fhall thy name be dear. Each chamber, tho' but fmall and low, Each place, wherein my fteps might go, Each planted tree, each garden-bed, And little field, where cattle fed, Where peaceful happinefs once fmil'd ; Where once I prattled, when a child ; Where my firft breath in dawning life I drew — Neglected, rural place, adieu, adieu. Secreted thou from envious eye, Beneath a fhelt'ring hill doft lie, Whence diftant azure mounts I fee, Forming a profpect fuiting thee. The Kent meand'ring winds below, Whofe ftreams with health and profit flow, Along whofe banks the patient angler plays The vary'd fly, his fav'rite fifh to raife. The curling fmoke, the fimple bridge, The antique fteeple, and the. ridge Of hills arifing 'bove the town, The caftle, once of great renown, Now daily mould'ring to decay, And hills and fields where cattle ftray, Enrich the pleafing landfcape, and invite Whoe'er comes near thee, to enjoy the fight. Then let me turn my thoughts from thee, And calmly meet my deftiny; Bid each fond-fancy'd fcene adieu, And drive thy beauties from my view. Hard is the tafk — for ftill my mind To dwell on ev'ry part's inclin'd. — Yet the whole pitying world, with tears, I tell, That I have bidden thee a long farewell. Dockwray Hall Mills. At a meeting of the Mayor and Aldermen, held in the Moot Hall, the 19th day of April, Anno Dni. 1720, it was ordered " that the Owners of Dockerey hall Lands be admonifhed to come to a refolucon what they intend to doe about the repair of Dockerey hall Lane and give their Anfwer to the Justices of the Peace of the said Burgh on Thurfday come a fortnight at the Adjornment of the Sefsions then to be held in and for the said Burgh." I have an advertisement dated April 22nd, 1809, of the sale at the " King's Arms Inn," in Kendal, on the 10th day of May, 1809, of " all those valuable Mills, called Dockwray Hall Mills, situate on the River Kent, within the liberties of the town of Kendal, consisting of one Mill for Rasping and Chipping Dying Woods, with a Room over the same, containing in length forty-one feet, and in breadth seventeen feet three inches, with the Water Wheel, Going geer and Utensils thereunto belonging. Two Fulling Mills, containing five Pair of Stocks, one of the said mills being thirty feet by twenty-seven feet six inches and the other twenty-nine feet by twenty-four feet nine inches ; with a large Carding room over the said two last-mentioned mills on the second floor and a STRICKLANDGATE— THE EAST SIDE. 363 Wool Loft on the third floor. One Friezing Mill containing four Single and two Double Friezing Boards, with large and convenient Rooms over the same. Also three Dwelling Houses or Cottages adjoining the said mills. And also several inclosures and parcels of good land in high cultivation adjoining the said mills and containing in the whole eight acres, three roods and three parches or thereabouts ; all which said mills are now in the occupation of Mr. James Gandy, as farmer. Further particulars may be had by applying to Mr. John Dawson, etc., etc." The present buildings were built by Gandy and Son (1816 — 1817) as a woollen and drysalter's mill, and described as the largest manufacturing building ever erected in the county. In digging for the wheel-case the work men discovered an alder tree five feet below the surface of the ground, probably proving that the fields about Kendal are of alluvial formation. The mills were destroyed by fire April 14th, 1824, the damage being estimated at £20,000, but the walls were left standing, and it was soon re-built. The lower portion at the west end was built by Edward Bayliff in 1830 as a marble factory, and here, under the direction of Wyatville, the King's architect, he made the two marble mantelpieces for Windsor Castle, one being of Kendal Fell limestone, and the other of Italian dove marble, placed in St. George's Hall, Windsor. Kendal Fell limestone was first polished as marble in 1788 by Francis Webster. The tercentenary of Shakespeare's birth (April 23rd, 1564) was well celebrated in Kendal. Monday, the 25th April, 1864, was kept as a complete holiday, 1,500 children walking in procession, were presented at this low Tenter Fell with Shakespeare medals. Master John Wakefield, eldest son of W. H. Wakefield, in the presence 3,000 persons, planted an Oak sapling, which the Mayor declared to be the property ofthe public, who, he hoped, would religiously preserve it, and hand it on from generation to generation by the name of the " Shakespeare Oak." He also said that the portion of the Fell, on which the tree had just been planted, had, by a recent Act of Parliament, been dedicated to the public for ever, and he wished it hence forth to bear the most appropriate name, and go down to posterity by two words which Shakespeare himself had done so much indissolubly to unite, viz., " Kendal Green." The Oak unfortunately within a few hours became damaged (oh boys !) and in the following spring it was found that it was dead — quite dead from the root upwards. " The comfort is, however," said Sally Alick, 364 KIRKBIE KENDALL. " that Shakespeare cannot die any more than can the proceedings of that after noon on which his memorial tree was planted be blotted out of our local annals." But a new oak was privately planted by the same gentleman to take its place on March 21st, 1866. I wonder how many there are amongst us who can point to this commemorative tree, for surely this is an instance of the need of some tablet to record its history. It is in the centre of the west side. Three fir trees were also planted in commemoration of the Prince of Wales' marriage, and in April, 1870, other trees were added on three sides of the green. VIII. Finkle Street, OR The East Road. Some authorities derive the name from Fennel (Anglo-Saxon finugl, German fenchel), supposing that the street was once over grown by such a weed in consequence of its desertion during the great plague of 1598. Doubtless the central position and its narrow and confined area rendered the street more liable to the virulent contagion than other streets, but still it must be conceded that the clue is not a strong one, when compared to the other more popular one, derived from a word in the Scandinavian or Teutonic tongue, which signifies an elbow. 367 FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. Pump Inn. The old buildings that for a long time obstructed the entrance into Finkle Street, of which the " Pump Inn " formed a con spicuous part, are well remembered, being only removed in the year 1878. As was usual, we find that they were framed in oak, with the interstices filled in with a clay plaster mixed with straw, and having its upper third story over hanging the two lower. The northern portion seems to have been used as a public-house from the middle of the last century, and the origin of its name is made clear by the following order made by Alderman Joseph Sympson in 1709, and inserted in the third Boke of Recorde : — "The neighbours in the ffish shambles may have libty to convert ye Shambles well Into a pump at their owne prper charge." Con cerning the ancient draw-well, with axle tree and bucket, we find an " order " in 1594 "that twoe sworne men were yearelie appointed to see the same well cleansed and main tained," with powers to enforce a fine of „j c _ _ „*f„„^^ Old Pump Inn, facing- Fish Market. 2d. tor every ortence, ' 5 to be levied " of the master or dame's goods," offending against the order. Edmund- Adlington, a Friend, and a native of Yealand, whose weight reached over 24 stones, and his wife's weight over 22 stones, by trade a shear- 368 KIRKBIE KENDALL. man dyer, is the first owner of the northern portion of the property, of whom we bmve any mention. Thomas Jackson, mercer (Mayor in 1661-2 and 1678-9), occupied it as his tenant. Adlington sold his front shop portion to William Birkett, of Troutbeck, for £100. In 1683 the property was again. sold for £100 to a sister of the previous owner. In 1697, after having changed hands many times, it was sold by auction for £102 10s. to Richard Lowry, who was Mayor in 1698-9. In a deed dated 21st of June, 1740, Richard Lowry " did grant bargain sell unto his daughter, Martha Lowry, spinster, all that burgage house, messuage, and tenement, known as ' Lead Hall,' situate standing and being in the ffish market in Kirkby Kendal, and also his shop adjoining thereunto on the back side thereof." Martha it seems obtained a license, and designated the new inn after the pump. "The pump runs clear With ale and beer." Another Mayor of Kendal was the next owner, William Baxter, who kept a small ironmonger's shop adjoining, and after his death in 1798 it passed to Chippendale, his son-in-law, who purchased the small warehouse and shop up the lane on the north side for £282, and transformed the side shop into a some what roomy but low ceilinged bar-parlour. A son of the above Chippendale sold the property for £1,000 to Hannah Nicholson, and ultimately in 1841 it became by purchase the property of Mrs. Fisher, of the Old Shambles, from whom it was purchased by the Corporation. Outside on the north wall was a broad shutter, covered with handbills, which hung on hinges at the bottom, and served the double purpose of a stall for the exposure of goods on market days, and of a notice-board when closed. Lowry in his will, dated 1740, calls the house by the name of Lead Hall, and in another old deed it is called by the name of " Skeat Hall." Besides this inn on the southern side was another house, which projected out further on to the pavement, supported on wooden columns. For a long time it was an inn under the sign of " The Fountain," and I find it left by John Nelson to his son, Thomas Nelson, by will dated February, 1750, and again left by Thomas Nelson to his wife Elizabeth by will dated June, 1767. Here in the upper rooms Todhunter had his museum. Below was a shop at FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 369 the south corner occupied by a Thomas Kendal, grocer, who was succeeded by Thomas Robinson, and later by Mr. Butterwith as partner. Mr. Robinson at first was only a tenant, but in 1840 purchased the premises for £800. Old Pump Inn, facing Stricklandgate. (Demolished 1877). It is said that in early days the frontage was continued so as to meet No. 1, Highgate, and that the southern entrance into the fish market, known as Crock Lane, was entered under the archway, which was closed by a pair of gates after sunset. Even as far back as 1777 the expediency of removing this great obstruction at the busiest centre of the town, seems to have suggested itself, but it was not till the year 1868, when Robinson made the generous bequest of his corner shop and warehouse to the town, on the condition that the adjoining inn and shop were obtained and the whole taken down, that the scheme came within the region of practical politics. As soon after as possible, Robinson and Butterwith's shop was demolished. At the same time the old drinking foun tain, which had stood at the south side of the warehouse, was likewise consigned to the past, and in its place the Corporation erected an iron structure. After much delay and discussion, in the year 1878, the " Pump Inn " was bought over, and shared the same fate. So ended the renowned old building, 37° KIRKBIE KENDALL. in which the shoemakers and the tailors had held their club meetings for years over their hot ale and rum, and where the country lads and lasses at Martinmas and Whitsuntide had danced upstairs to the fiddle, whilst below old Jimmy Dowker sung and Jimmy Wiggins held forth in favour of "Harry Brougham." I have said so much about this Mayor of Doodleshire and Poet Laureate to "Harry," that it will be interesting to represent his portrait here. " Had I but served my God," he said, whilst standing in the Market Place clad in workhouse clothing, "as I served Harry Brougham, the workhouse never would have been my doom." Poor Jimmy died there soon afterwards, April 22nd, 1838, and left the following lines for his epitaph : — Jimmy Wiggins. • Of base ingratitude I've had my share, This world at best is but a scene of care : Sickness and sorrow — poverty and trouble, Frail mortal's lot — this life it but a bubble. Had I served God, instead of Brougham, Tranquil and peaceful would have been my home ; But folly and vice have led me far away, And now I must lament each misspent day. No more shall I with flippant tongue Answer a giddy, mirthful throng, For fixed will be my doom, No envious foes — no storm that blows Can reach me in the tomb." There is a tradition that Prince Napoleon, when making a tour of the lakes, stayed all night in Kendal, and was recommended to this " Pump Inn " for a glass of the best Kendal ale, and it is further boastfully said that FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 371 the beverage so tickled his fancy that he was not able to leave without emptying three glasses, and even then thought none the worse of it, although he awoke next morning with a heavy head. m ji. . mr Here in Crock Lane was the entrance into Tod- Todhunter s Museum. hunter's museum referred to above, rich in anti quarian articles belonging to the district, and where it remained till it was broken up and sold on July 15th, 1832. This remarkable collection was first started in 1796 in a room near Abbot Hall gates, where a barber's shop now is, and where it remained until about the year 1800. (See page 121.) Upon the site of the present grocery shop there once stood the "Turk's Head Inn." By a will dated April 4th, 1789, Emma Coup- land leaves unto her granddaughter, Emma Braithwaite, her messuage and tenement, lately an inn called the " Turk's Head," being in the fish market. The premises afterwards became Dalrymple's confection shop. " The shop of Thomas Cotton, where also may be had books and No. 11. other stationery ware. Also Dr. Daffey's Right Cordial Elexir truly prepar'd from London." There seems to be no record of the ancient bookseller's shop that stood at the head of the street before the time of Thomas Cotton. He is specially noted for being the first printer in Kendal, and who brought out the first Kendal newspaper, The Kendal Weekly Courant, on the ¦ ist of January, 1731. In size it was 15 inches by 9J inches, or medium quarto, containing four pages, and bearing a halfpenny stamp, being sold at a penny halfpenny a copy. After Cotton's time, we find the paper edited by Thomas Ashburner, a paper manufacturer at Cowan Head, who also published the Kendal Weekly Mercury, first issued on January 4th, 1735, being the same size as the Conrauf, which also bore the Government halfpenny stamp tax, but was sold for a penny. A copy of each of these papers is preserved in the Museum. Ashburner was succeeded by his son James, the publisher of the Kendal Diary. This firm also published for a short time The Agreeable Miscellany, or, Something to Please Every Man's Taste, a fortnightly periodical of 16 pages, within a blue cover, of octavo size, and sold at a penny. It commenced on May 13th, 1749, and only survived 39 numbers, the last appearing October 26th, 1750. In September, 1794, Wilson and Branthwaite purchased the 372 KIRKBIE KENDALL. business, but on Isaac Wilson's death (December 20th, 1796,) the firm became known under the names of Michael and Richard Branthwaite. The Westmorland A dvertiser and Kendal Chronicle, a folio weekly paper, was established on the 29th of June, 1811, by the following proprietors : — John Pearson, Jacob Wakefield, James Swales, John Swainston, Michael Bran thwaite, James Johnson, and Dr. Robinson. It was published at 6Jd. a copy, bearing a 3^d. stanp, by J. Steel & Co., until January 30th, 1813, when Steel retired. M. Branthwaite's name then heads this paper, and to him is due the credit of introducing the "leading article." But his tenure seems only to have lasted some five years, for in the paper for April 18th, 1818, is' the following notice : — " The new Editor of the Chronicle, we find, is the publisher, Mr. Richard Lough, who speaks in his own name this week." With this change, and owing to the secession of the Tories and the commencement of the Westmorland Gazette, the paper entered into party politics, and became the first Liberal paper in Kendal. Mr. Lough became sole proprietor in January, 1820, and professes himself as a whig and a "glorious revolution of 1688 man." He changed the form ofthe paper to quarto size of eight pages, with three wide columns to the page. On January 19th, 1822, a new arrangement took place. The paper became edited by one Tyras Redhead, who commences with some sharp things about the Gazette, but who was not loath to turn round and become its editor three years later, in succession to the talented editor, John Briggs. Richard Lough died February 5th, 1831, aged 40, and the following week Mrs. Lough became proprietor, the paper being pluckily edited by her daughter. On May 17th, 1834, The Kendal Chronicle bids the public farewell, and soon after appeared the first number of the Kendal Mercury, a paper at first costing 3^d., which became reduced in i860 to 3d. The editor, George Irvin, retired in April, 1837, and in May the Rev. George Lee, a Unitarian minister, took up the work, a post he was destined to hold for many years. The issue of April 28th, 1838, contains the following extract from an official return printed by order of the House of Commons : — " Number of stamps issued from 30th June, 1837, to 30th November, 1837. Number supplied to Kendal Mercury .... 18,000 „ ., Gazette .... 8,000 „ ,, Lancaster Gazette .... 12,000 „ ,, Lancaster Guardian 17,000." FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 373 This gives to the Mercury at that time an average weekly circulation of 820 copies, and to the Gazette 363 copies. Joseph Richardson came to Kendal from Middlesbrough in October, 1863, immediately took large premises at No. 46, Highgate, and started what was the first penny paper, called the Kendal Times, Westmorland Reporter, and Lake District Advertiser, in opposition to the two old-established papers, costing 4^d. stamped. The first issue on January 2nd, 1864, appears to have caused considerabe excitement, Highgate was crowded by hundreds of people waiting for its publication, and no fewer than 2,064 papers were sold over the counter between the hours of six and ten o'clock in the evening. On the 23rd of April, 1864, being the Tercentenary of Shakespeare's Birthday, he set on foot a movement, through his paper, to illuminate the town, a scheme which was very warmly taken up. He himself had a full-length figure of the poet in transparency, illuminated by gas in front of his premises, and he also had manufactured in Staffordshire 2,000 white bowls, with an insrciption in brown letters, " Shakespeare Tercentenary, April 23rd, 1864. Presented by the Proprietor of the Kendal Times." Richardson, however, relinquished the paper about the close of the third year, and the failing Mercury was only too glad to amalgamate such a powerful rival. Our honoured friend, Mr. Edward Gill, became the proprietor, and on September 6th, 1873, reduced the price to the popular penny. But upon the site of Mr. Gill's present shop there stood in the year 1818 the " Lord Nelson Inn," with the sign of his ship, the " Victory." The inn was closed about the year 1855, and Mr. Edward Gill moved his business to here in 1868. "WATERLOO KOTJSE Waterloo House. Proceeding down the hill, we come to Waterloo House, the frontage of which was set back in the year 1873. 374 KIRKBIE KENDALL. It was the first shop in which panes were placed in the windows in single sheets. Plate glass was not introduced into Kendal before 1849. The western portion was formerly occupied by James Fothergill, tobacconist, and then by Messrs. Brocklebank and Gawith, also tobacco and snuff factors. Snuff and . other forms of tobacco on their introduction had many bitter opponents. After the great plague the popularity of tobacco and snuff increased, for during the time of the terrible visitation both had been largely used as disin fectants. There is a curious entry in Thomas Hearne's Diary, 1720-21, bearing on this theme. He writes as follows under date of January 21st : — " I have been told that in the last great plague in London none that kept tobacconists' shops had the plague. It is certain that smoaking was looked upon as a most ex cellent preservative. In so much that even children were obliged to smoak. And I re member that I heard formerly Tom Rogers, who was yeoman beadle, say, that when the plague raged he was that year a school boy at Eton, when all the boys in the school were obliged to smoak in the school every morning." Central Buildings. In 1871, the Corporation having completed their plans for widening and improving this part of Finkle Street, set to work to pull down Hannah Berry's far-famed bake shop, the old barber's shop kept by one Jemmy Dowker, Miss Speight's celebrated pie shop, the hosiery warehouse of Thomas Gould, as well as the shoe shop of John Walker, where on October 25rd, 1764 (Jockey) John Bell, the eminent Chancery FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 375 barrister,, was born. He was the son of Matthew Bell, grocer ; was called to the bar in 1792, and died at his house in Bedford Square, London, on February 6th, 1836. It is said that he had three different styles of hand writing. One that his clerk could read and he could not, another that he could read and his clerk could not, and another that neither he, nor his clerk, nor even Lucifer himself, could decipher. In July of the same year Messrs. Bailie and Hargreaves purchased from the Corporation for £1,450 a considerable site on this widened thoroughfare, and erected the Central Buildings in 1872. *> x «.^= There seems to have been little postal communication with the Post Office. v outside world till about the middle of the last century. The riding work was first done by men or boys on horseback, and if they had more letters than they could well stuff into their breeches pocket, they were deposited in the saddle-bags. This official, who blew a horn to announce his approach, is well described by the Poet Cowper in The Task, Book 4, "The Winter Evening " : — " Harkl 'tis the twanging horn o'er yonder bridge, That with its wearisome but needful length Bestrides the wintry flood, in which the moon Sees her unwrinkled face reflected bright ; He comes, the herald of a noisy world, With spattered boots, strapped waist, and frozen locks ; News from all nations lumbering on his back, True to his charge, the close-packed load behind, Yet careless what he brings, his one concern Is to conduct it to the destined inn ; And, having dropped the expected bag, pass on." The riding boys were succeeded by men who drove in post gigs, depositing the leathern letter bags in a box, which the driver sat upon. A pair of horse- pistols were delivered by the postmaster to each man when he set out on his journey, which he placed in holsters on either side of the splash-board in front of him. These were duly delivered up to the postmaster at the end ofthe day's journey. The first postmaster, of whom any reliable account has been obtained, was Hugh Holme, Deputy Recorder, who was. followed by Christopher Fenton, 376 KIRKBIE KENDALL. senior. About the year 1760 Romney painted the celebrated hand for Fenton, who was at that time the landlord of the " King's Arms," and it was used by his wife, the postmistress, to point to the entrance ofthe little post office beneath the inn. Between 1780-90, old John Jennings, landlord of the " Unicorn Inn," carried the letters between Kendal and Lancaster, going there with his horse and cart one day and returning the next. But a great change soon came for the better. The postman's gig was discontinued, and the town was served by the Lancaster to Whitehaven well- appointed four-in-hand coaches, with driver and guard in scarlet coats and gold lace hat-bands. Arnold and Burdett were the guards, and Tom Preston and David Johnston the drivers. Leaving Lancaster, the mail passed through Milnthorpe, Kendal, Bowness (the town of Windermere did not then exist), Ambleside, Keswick, Cockermouth, Workington, and Whitehaven. The coaches generally crossed each other on Dunmail Raise. Undoubtedly, Tom Preston was one of the best whips in Britain. He would suffer no delays, and his blunt determination was sometimes set down as boorishness, but a kinder- hearted man never lived. Many a lift did he give to poor people, tramping home burdened with market-day stores, when the coach was not full, without fee or reward, and not in the least detrimental to his employer or the service. Christopher Fenton, junior, succeeded his father as postmaster, and held the position for more than thirty-four years, until his resignation in April, 1824. From the Carlisle Journal for August 30th, 1800, 1 extract the following: — " Having had occasion to call at the post offices in the different towns I passed through, the extreme politeness and affability of the Post Master of Kendal particularly attracted my notice and led me to make some enquiries respecting him, when I found that his attention to strangers and diligence in the discharge of his office had diservedly procured him not only the praise of travellers but of the inhabitants." He was succeeded by his son, Miles Fenton, who died in 1830. The great influx of letters which followed the adoption first of the fourpenny, and then of the penny postage, 1839 and 1840, rather disgusted our worthy officials. A letter for which a person paid is. id. or iod. was a respectable commodity ; but when a penny only had to be paid, they said that people wrote about every thing and nothing. FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 377 The post office was removed from under the " King's Arms Inn " to the Bank Cross House, in Highgate, but after the re-building of these premises in the year 1812, it crossed the road to Cross View, No. 107, Highgate. How ever the office had not a long existence there, as it was soon removed again to No. 17, Finkle Street, where it remained for a few years. Still unsettled, the next move was to some newly-built and more commodious premises at the top corner of Yard No. 77, Highgate, the receiving box and message window being placed in the entry ingeniously contrived for the purpose. Here it did not remain many years before it made another change to Lowther Street, opposite the side entrance to the Town Hall. Ever restless and erratic, the office then removed about the year 1865, to No. 63, Highgate, where Romney's " hand," which had for many years faced the elements, was honoured with a glass cover. The colour had stood remarkably well, even after years of exposure to the biting frosts and heavy rains, a wonderful proof of the care with which Romney mixed his pigments. On December 6th, 1869, the office being unable to find a firm footing anywhere, next removed to a position under the Town Hall. But here the limited accommodation for the telegraphic work finally necessitated the removal in May, 1877, to their present premises in the Central Buildings. In 1853 two receiving houses for letters were opened in Stricklandgate and Stramongate respectively, but in December, 1857, they were replaced by pillar letter-boxes, with an additional office in Kirkland. Yard No. 45. Down this yard there used to be a draw-well. To retrace our steps back again up Finkle Street to the other northern side, we notice at the corner of Stricklandgate the house where, in early days, was the first " Dog and Duck Inn," kept by Jonathan Birkett in 1794, and where the Good Intent Benefit Society held its meetings in 1796. But the sign was transferred to the neighbouring " Half Moon," No. 16, when that property was re-built. Here Sir Robert Mackereth was born, who was M.P. in 1774 for No. 12. Castle Rising in Norfolk. Truly, he was one of our Kendal worthies. Humble in his birth, by care and assiduity he accumulated a large fortune, and during the season of his prosperity he liberally set apart £50 a year for 378 KIRKBIE KENDALL. the relief of indigent deserving families in this town. After his removal to Hampshire, he is said to have bought this property for his sister Ann. After his death in 1788, it passed into the occupation of Fell and Goff, surgeons (upon the pane of glass in one of the windows is scratched the name of Betty Goff), and afterwards to that of Dr. Mason, a much-respected surgeon, who was succeeded by his daughter, Mrs. Harrison, a lady accomplished as a pharmacopolist.»t „,, The " Half Moon " was situated where the boot shop now is, until No. 16. .... the property was re-built, as I have just said in i.812, when the sign was altered to the " Dog and Duck," by which name it was known in December, 1856, when advertised to be let. «/¦» j r.a The watchmaker's shop and the sweet shop adjoining No. 26 and 28. occupy the site of a house where Thomas Holmes, the father of Dr. Holmes, lived. From here the fatal shot was fired on December 14th, 1745, which killed one of the rebels, and which led them, by way of compensation we suppose, to kill John Slack, the farmer of New Hutton. Both were buried, probably together, on the following Monday in the parish churchyard. -T _,. , , The New Shambles were built in 1803, expressly for the New Shambles. °' v J butchers, upon the site of a narrow path called " Watt Lane," according to Speed's plan of 1614, and Todd's plan of 1787. The enterprise of keeping the fraternity together, in these New Shambles did not seem to answer well, as by degrees the butchers left for more commanding premises in the main streets. A1, _. _ „ Further down we come to the flour warehouse, Old Fire Engine House. which was built by the Corporation as a fire engine house in 1838, upon a piece of vacant ground, or what had formerly been a garden. Our eccentric author, " Hob Thrush," leaves to us the following truly characteristic sketch of this curious building : — " The order is certainly Doric-pure Doric, for there are three doors. The centre is occupied by an arch, closed by folding doors. The right and left, in a parallel line, are also adorned with similar doorways, the arches being of precisely the same span. The left hand entrance is perforated with holes, the configuration of which represent large letters, and should any luminous body be burning inside FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 379 these unintelligible syllables would become visible. FI RE ENGI NES. Perhaps as many theories such as F for fig, and J for jig have been advanced in elucidation of this mystery, as there have been to explain who paid for the 500 special constables' staves, that were manufactured to spiflicate the Chartists, who were expected to arrive in Kendal one Saturday night by the Packet, out of Staffordshire. Above the key stone of the central arch is a small black and white signboard, on which is inscribed ' Edward Carradus, Fireman,' which is intended to intimate that if your chimney catches fire, Mr. Carradus has power and authority to come and spout water in at every one of your windows, charge you a sovereign for the shower-bath, and chalk up to your account as many gallons of ale as your kind neighbours, who are assisting to pump water into your " hold" can drink. But the greatest value of these water engines is exemplified on old Nut Mondays. On this day they are regularly taken down to the Kent side, where the firemen spurt water into the air in the form of a rainbow, for the gratification of the junior branches of the community. The Corporation water carts are also kept here, and should the atmosphere become cloudy, and a fall of rain be apprehended, they are immediately ordered out to deg the streets." Poor " Hob Thrush," with such articles as these, it is sad that his journal came to such an untimely end, lasting only so long as to give forth three four-page quarto numbers in the year 1842. This house was in 1816 occupied by DougaU Wright, a little man No. 38. with a big voice, who combined with his business of auctioneer, which, by the bye, was one of the earliest in the town, that of a silk dyer. The earliest tenant that I can find of the old house at the corner of No. a. Branthwaite Brow was one John Kitching, flour dealer, who subsequently removed further up into the Market Place. After him James Airey moved here in 1850. The shop was formerly entered from Branthwaite Brow by a flight of steps through a deeply-recessed square-headed doorway. Underneath the bow window facing Finkle Street were the upright doors leading into John Whinerey's store cellar. At the time of the widening of Branthwaite Brow the house underwent considerable alteration, and soon after it was tenanted by John Heap, " the early riser," who, it is said, disturbed his neighbours, by handling his tin ware, as early as four o'clock in the morning. 380 KIRKBIE KENDALL. This lane was formerly very narrow, but it was Branthwaite Brow. , ; , , , . . , , , , e ... « j r almost doubled in width by order of the Board of Health in the year 1851. This improvement necessitated the pulling down of some rickety old houses which stood on the west side. The new shops which were built fronting on to this widened street, were erected with iron-plate fronts to economise in space, and bear date 1853. The lowest shop, Edmondson's, on the east side, was set back and rounded off soon after 1851. This lane was also very narrow, but greatly widened by public subscription in 1818. Here formerly stood the beer-house called the " Canal Tavern." The " Kent Tavern " is a house probably opened about the same time as the canal in 1819. The first bridge seems to have been entirely a wooden Miller Bridge. 5 . ' structure, which was swept away by a flood prior to the year 1668. In 1669 it was re-built of wood on stone piers, which lasted some seventy odd years. At a court or an assembly of the Worshipful the Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses, at the Moot Hall, the 30th December, 1742, it was agreed and ordered that the sum of £40 should be advanced and paid by the Chamber of this Corporation in aid of a fund to be raised towards the building of a stone bridge, instead of the narrow wooden mill bridge. Alexander Deary, of the Common Garden, and James Wilson, of the Castle Mills, promised to pay the sum of five guineas for the use of the same. An inscribed stone was built into the new bridge, bearing the Mayor, John Waide's initials, I. W., and the date 1743. This stone is said still to be doing duty as a cellar window sill, reverse side up, on the premises of Mr. Richard Everson, carver, in Highgate. A gate was placed half-way across the bridge. Curiously, the life of this bridge seems also to have been only one of some seventy-five years, for in 1818 we find the Mayor, Jonathan Hodgson, laying the foundation stone of a new and wider one, a few yards to the south of the wooden bridge, for a more commodious passage to the intended basin of the Lancaster and Kendal Canal. The traffic must have increased very rapidly, for we find the bridge again enlarged in the year 1822. < Q W oQCO « Ul J FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 381 During the French Revolutionary War, Kendal had its day of military excitement, and the Miller Close played a conspicuous part in it. For instance, I find in the Cumberland Pacquet for April 7th, 1795, that the recruiting business for the army had long been very brisk here, " a party of Wakefield Volunteers marched back a few days ago, in great spirits, with upwards of forty Kendal recruits." And again, " the Caithness Fencibles marched from Kendal a few days ago, they have enlisted thirty-four in that town. A party of Colonel Blair's Volunteers, or Liverpool Regiment, are still in Kendal seeking more recruits." Every recruit receives the full bounty of twenty-five guineas in hand immediately on his being enrolled. And, there seems to have been an equal degree of spirit for the sea service, for a recruiting sergeant for this service had been appointed, and the town's quota, viz., seven, were soon enrolled. In the following month we read that 180 of the Fifeshire Fencibles and 150 Dragoons arrived at Kendal, and went through their manual exercise in Miller Field. Then we further read that the complete number of Westmorland Volunteers is already raised for the navy, and that Daniel Wilson, of Dallam Tower, and William Carus Wilson, of Casterton, review them on Miller Field. In July of the same year a large party of Durham Rangers, the 83rd Regiment of Foot and the 31st Regiment of Light Dragoons passed through Kendal, and encamped in Miller Fields. The papers say that ".little is heard but drums and fifes, and little seen but scarlet coats with glittering armour." There is a good story told to the effect that Bonaparte and Marshall Soult were considering as to the best part of our coast on which to land the French troops, the Emperor believing that Morecambe Bay was the most suitable. Soult, however, replied " But we should be opposed by that devil of a Colonel Maude and the Kendal Volunteers." The story went on to say that thence forth any idea of invading England was given up. A good stone house towards the bottom of the street bears Lowther Street. IF date on a stone ' o ' for James Fell, a surgeon, who lived there. A Captain Haygarth built the large house, with the bold flight of stone steps at the south-east corner. Here Samuel Gawith lived, and died during his mayoralty, October 9th, 1865, aged 49. 382 KIRKBIE KENDALL. As described under the Presbyterian Chapel, the Rev. Independents. ..,,,. MacQuhae seceded from that body on principles of church government in 1772, with several of the congregation, and for a time worshipped in "The Fold," Stricklandgate. In 1781, when Lowther Street was opened (or New Street, as subse quently became known in consequence of the town's dislike to the name of Lowther), a new chapel was erected here, capable of seating 400 persons, and opened September 12th, 1781. In 1815 a subscription of £209 was raised tor altering the seats, and erecting a gallery. From 1826 to 1861 the Rev. D. Jones was minister, and during his ministry, in 1828, the building was re-fronted. So great was the anxiety of the congregation to obtain seats to listen to this remarkable preacher, that for some time before the doors were opened, numbers gathered together to await on the door-step. Sunday after Sunday the assembly overflowed into the schooolroom, and slits were made in the dividing wall so that they also could hear his excellent discourses. In 1886 the interior was completely renovated, and the straight-backed pews removed for the more comfortable ones now in use. The Sunday School was one of the first in Kendal, originating in 1789, only nine years after Robert Raikes founded the Sunday School system, and in 1812 a branch of the London Missionary Society was established. The school was begun in a large vestry upon a part of the ground where the schoolroom now stands, which was formerly a slate yard. Between 1820 and 1825, John Crosby was the superintendent, and his successors were Richard and Thomas Greenhow. The present premises were built in 1829, and during the time the building operations were being carried on the scholars were taught in the bottom of the chapel, where the vestibule now is, and they also sat there during service on seats specially erected for them. A general meeting was held at the Town Hall, Lancaster, on the Canal. 7th of February, 1792, to take into consideration the propriety of entering into a subscription for making the proposed canal. " Resolved unanimously that a subscription be entered into for obtaining an Act of Parliament to carry the said canal into execution and for defraying all FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 383 expenses necessary for completing the same." Immediately after the meeting it was announced that the subscriptions amounted to £"247,800. An Act was immediately obtained for making the canal navigable from Kendal, by way of Lancaster and Preston, to go through the great coal districts, near Chorley and Wigan, and to join the canals in the south of Lancashire ; its principal design being to carry south, limestone and slate, and to return with coals. It was opened for navigation on the 18th of June, 1819 (the anniversary of the victory of Waterloo), and was looked upon as an event causing a new era to the trade of Kendal. At an early hour in the morning flags were hoisted on the Town Hall, Castle, Church Steeple, Canal Warehouses, and various other places, and a general bustle pervaded the entire town, business was suspended, shops closed, and every one seemed anxious to witness the pleasing and novel spectacle. Several pieces of cannon were procured for the occasion and stationed on the Castle Hill and in Chapel Close on the opposite side of the valley, and these continued to fire at intervals during the morning. At nine o'clock the Corporation and gentlemen of the town, preceded by a band and a party of special constables, walked in procession down to the canal basin, and embarked on board the Corporation barge, accompanied by a large party of ladies. Another boat, fit up for the occasion, and denominated the "extra barge," was also filled with gaily-attired occupants, and at last a start was made at 10-15, the boats being drawn down the canal amidst the ringing of bells and firing of cannon. Hincaster tunnel (378 yards long) was reached at twelve o'clock, and Crooklands at one o'clock, where the party awaited the arrival of the Lancaster contingent, five trading boats of Messrs. Hargreaves, Welch & Co., and three packet boats. There were several bands of music, and each boat hoisted an appropriate flag. The full aquatic procession of sixteen boats then returned northwards, arriving back at the basin at five o'clock, amidst the huzzas of, it was conjectured, 10,000 people, who literally covered the Castle Hill side. Naturally the evening was spent with excellent dinner parties at the Town Hall to which 120 sat down at the " King's Arms," and elsewhere, and a ball, at which some hundred ladies and gentlemen attended, terminated the festivities of the day. 384 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Its length from Kendal to its southern termination at Westhoughton, including a connecting railroad of five miles from Preston to Clayton Green, is nearly 76 miles, of which course nearly nine miles is navigated by the Leeds and Liverpool Company, between Whitle-le- Woods and Wigan. The fall from Kendal to the mid-level is 65 feet, and the rise from thence, on the southern side is 222 feet. It crosses the Lune at Lancaster by a stupendous aqueduct, passes a tunnel 378 yards long at Hincaster, and is fed by a large reservoir of 150 acres, near Killington, five miles east of Kendal, and its cost amounted to above £600,000. . .„ . These works were built by the Corporation likewise in Canal Works. 1819. _ iwii ^ne °^ mills were probably built for grinding corn for the oastiie lviiiis- Castle, as we know that a malt house was added to them in 1685. From the Newcastle Journal for November ist, 1755, I extract the following : — " To be Let to farm, For any Term exceeding twenty-one Years, at Sergeant Chambers's, Innholder in the Fish Market in Kendal, on Friday the 14th of November 1755, to enter at Martinmas 1756, Castle Mills belonging to the Corporation of Kendal aforesaid, consisting of one large convenient Malt-Kiln, with Lead Cistern, and suitable Granaries ; also one drying Kiln for Oats, &c, one pair of Grey Stones for grinding Oats, two Boulting Mills, one Crush Mill, three Snuff Mills, four Frizing Mills, one Fulling Stock for Milling Leather, Hemp, &c, one good Dwelling House, one new built Barn, Stable, and other suitable Outhouses, two Closes by Computation eight Acres of exceeding good Land, with all other Appurten ances and privileges, now under Farm to James Wilson. Any person minding to view the premises, may in mean Time, apply to Joseph Symson and Robert Dixon, the Chamberlains of the said Corporation. Further particulars will be exhibited at the Time of letting." Also from the Cttmberland Pacquet for August 25th, 1790 : — " Deaths. A few days ago, at the Castle Mills, near Kendal, in the 77th year of his age, William Pennington, formerly a very eminent miln-wright ; not more regarded for his ingenuity by those who were enabled to judge of his abilities, than esteemed for the integrity of his conduct by all who knew him." FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 385 The old buildings were taken down in 1805, and for many years after there was to be seen the remains of an arch which formed part of the structure. Stramongate mill becoming too small for increasing trade, William Braithwaite and Son and Isaac and William Wilson besought the Corporation to erect a larger mill, which was accordingly done in 1806, but considerably more to the north-west than the old mill. In the year 1854 they were purchased for £5,000 by Messrs. J. J. and W. Wilson, who converted the place into a woollen mill, and applied steam power, the first in the district. _ , Near to where Castle Lodge now is, was the " Non mi Castle Lodge. Recorda," which we find in the Cumberland Pacquet for June 18th, 1782, advertised to be sold as follows : — Common Garden, Kendal. To be sold by Auction, upon the premises on Friday the 26th Day of July 1782; the common garden, late belonging to Alexander Deary deceased, which is freehold, and only subject to a pepper Corn yearly on Demand, pleasantly situated on the East Side of the River Kent, adjoining to the Town of Kendal, in the County of Westmorland, containing near Five Acres (Statute Measure) of very fertile Ground, with a convenient Dwelling-House, which has been long used as an Inn or public-house and well accustomed and is in good repair, Brew-house, Seed-shop, Stable, Hay-loft, and other appurtenances hereunto belonging. The Garden is well fenced and watered and planted with Variety of Choice Fruit Trees, and has therein a Flower Garden, or Nursery, and Hot beds, and a great many beautiful Walks and Arbours, laid out in Taste, and in complete Order. For further particulars apply to Mr. Patrick, Linen-draper or Mr. Postlethwaite, Attorney in Kendal. Again in the same paper for December 28th, 1784, I find it advertised by Thomas Greenhow to let as " all that ancient Common Garden, consisting of 4 Acres, bowling green and dwelling house thereunto belonging, now and for many years past, used as a public house." It was again sold in public sale on the 20th day of June, 1788. These almshouses were built at a cost of £4,250, and handsomely endowed by the late John Sleddall "in commemoration of Her Majesty's Jubilee " in 1887. The endowment fund stands now at £17,350. These schools were built in 1870 upon the site of the old Industrial Schools, which were founded in 1799 by George Braithwaite in conjunction with Dr. Briggs. In 1812 Jane Emerson oo *3ta >.fa t- FINKLE STREET OR THE EAST ROAD. 387 bequeathed the sum of £25 12s. for the support of this institution, and in 1814 John Postlethwaite left the sum of £250 for the same purpose. The schools met at first in an old building down Yard 39, Highgate, but with the help of these legacies, together with about £150 raised by voluntary subscription, the trustees were enabled to obtain these premises in the year 1827. John Dawson was the first writing master, being assisted by Billy Curwen. Here from 200 to 300 children were accommodated. The three large rooms were in charge of three different teachers, the lower or knitting school portion being at one time under the care of an elderly lady, familiarly called " Betty Slee." On the upper floor was the sewing school, under the care of another aged lady, called " Betty Richardson," and the third room, which was over the large committee room, was the reading, writing, and arithmetic school. The children attended their classes of one hour's duration, and devoted the rest of the day to the knitting and sewing business on the House of Industry principle. The scores of pairs of stockings which were turned out every week used on certain days to be scoured and put upon stocking boards, and leant against the street walls in a line running the full-length from the Friends' Meeting House to the school itself. When well dried they were packed up and sent off to the various markets at home and abroad, which helped to make Kendal famous in those days as being one of the headquarters ofthe stocking-knitting business. The sewing school devoted itself to making black and green checked gingham frocks and under-clothing for the towns people, who paid them well for their work, the school being in repute for the marvellous neatness of stitching of wristbands and fronts. From a lack of funds, the trustees were obliged to close the schools about the year 1847. The School for Science and Art was opened on Monday, September 5th, 1870, and in the evening there was a public meeting in the Town Hall to celebrate the movement. The owners of the Castle granted the whole of Tenterholme to be a possession for ever to the shearmen dyers. The higher part of this ground, now known as Thorney Hills, once joined the island. At what time the race near Stramongate Bridge was formed, or the weir built opposite the new road, we have no information, but Goose Holme 388 KIRKBIE KENDALL. is first mentioned in the churchwarden's books for 1713, when a bushel and half of sand was got from there to roughcast the church with. The Court sitting on March the 22nd, 1714, held that this land was open to free pasture, together with Dob Freer, Tenter Holme and Thorney Hills. Again in the report of a law suit raised by the action taken by John Ireland to enclose for his own use this piece of ground, I extract the following : — " Goose Holme belongs to the Corporation of Kendal, as Conservators for the inhabitants, who have common right, from immemorial usage, of pasture, of drying and bleaching clothes upon the Holme, and of procuring sand from the river. Ireland, it was stated, had made encroachments some years since upon the Holme; but the Corporation, having cognisance of the fact, proceeded in a body to the spot, and there, asserting the public right, caused posts to be set up for the use of the inhabitants, in drying their linen &c." IX. Stramongate AND Iiongpool. Stream-mound-gate, so named by reason of an embankment made along the river to prevent, as far as possible, this lower part of the town being flooded. According to Speed's Plan (1614) it was at that time called Straman's-gate. Longpool has also doubtless obtained its name from the same liability to be flooded. 39i STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. Note. — The odd numbers are all on the southern and the even numbers on the northern side of the street. Before Kent Lane was widened the old house that stood at the No. 1. eastern corner projected some six feet or more on to the Stramongate pavement. It was here that Jeremiah Foster lived, at least when he was at home, for, being a postman, he carried His Majesty's Royal Mail to Sedbergh every other day, and returned to assist his wife, who kept a grocer's store here, on each alternate day. Opposite, at the corner of Branthwaite Brow, there used formerly to be an inn known by the sign of " The King's Head." We know that it existed in the year 1796, but little more is known until we find it sold by public auction on December 23rd, 1850, together with all the " household furniture, brewing vessels, and innkeeper's stock-in-trade." The following year the house was set back, and the corner rounded off in connection with the Branthwaite Brow improvements. Here at the beginning of this century John Coward lived. He and his wife were noted characters. Conservative to the backbone, and tenacious of all the ancient habits and customs of their forefathers. Nothing would induce them to conform to modern notions, or dispense with their wooden trenchers, from which until the last they ate their meals upon. Unfortunately we have no information whatever about this inn, although I have hunted carefully through the local newspapers nothing can be found for good or ill. The initials J.A. on the leaden spout head refer to John Archer a previous landlord. A curious instance of quiet unreported history. 392 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Adjoining, however, we come to a house which is full of ancient history, and every portion of its quaint exterior and delightful gable seem to breathe a tale of the olden days and of the lives of those who dwelt within. It was the town house of the Bellinghams of Burneside and Levens. In the time of George II. the front and premises on the right hand ofthe yard behind were all one, communicating together by a paved hall, and at that early date the premises were recorded as being 300 years old. John Broadbent, of London, and a descendant ofthe Bellinghams, com pletely restored the premises in the year 1863, and inserted an oak tablet in the gable containing the Bellingham arms with the inscription " Baron of K. K., 1544." Unfortunately a recent owner has removed almost all the interesting portions of the interior, together with many curios once collected together in the gable room. But there still can be seen two well carved oaken chimney pieces, a carved cupboard door bearing the arms of the Bellinghams with the date 1774, and another small cupboard door in the back premises bearing the initials and date " B.N. 1648." The next is Badenock's Yard, which to the street has now a Yard 11. modern shop front. Badenock was a Scotchman, and had left the "land o' cakes and brither Scot " to become gardener at Levens Hall. After retiring he came to live here. Two Scotch drovers, when driving their cattle up Stramongate one day, happened to see this worthy " brither " standing at his door, when one of them cried to the other, " Aye, Sawney, there's great Will Badenock, wha com awa wit' moon leet, stanan there ! " Agnes Harker, a sister of Captain Cooke, " the celebrated navigator," lived in the yard for many years, and died there April 27th, 1822, aged 96. This house was formerly an inn known as the " Black Bull," but in No. 13. J ' some deeds dating 1733 and 1755 I find it under the sign of the " Bull Head," and in a deed dating 1777 the house appears to have been discontinued as an inn. Upon the other side of the entry was the "White Sergeant Inn." It is said to have been the rendezvous of the Press-gang during the times of the French Wars, and was popularly known as the " randy-vow." Here also the Working Men's Institute was first established, and where the Chartists held their meetings. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 393 No 18 Immediately opposite the " White Sergeant," and where Baron's original reed manufactory once stood, was the " Shoulder of Mutton Inn," a sign which was afterwards changed to the "Recruiting Sergeant" public-house. „_ , _ _ It would seem that this part of Stramongate was Mason s Arms Inn. * b almost as thirsty as Kirkland, for adjoining the " Shoulder of Mutton " we find this inn bearing for its sign the " Mason's Arms." The house, together with No. 22, was formerly an ancient residence known as Ralphford Hall, and Thomas Gibson in 1777 charged the premises with a guinea per annum to the Sandes Hospital. Here in 1822 the Licensed Victuallers held a meeting to protest against the trade being thrown open, and that no license should be withdrawn without a trial by jury. By going down Yard No. 24 and looking back upon the quaint gable, one can get a good idea of what the old building resembled, before it was so intolerably modernized in front. ... Crossing the road again to the southern side we come to the old No. 21. . . b family residence of the Wilson family. It was in the possession of Isaac Wilson when Prince Charlie passed through in 1745, and the officers were quartered here. There is a good story told how that at dinner one of them called out for some mustard to be brought, whereupon a poor Highlander, ignorant of its nature, helped himself to a good spoonful, which he at once put into his mouth. Fancying himself poisoned, he drew his sword, and would have cut the serving man down had not the other officers interfered. A part of the repast consisted of raised meat pies, which were speedily emptied of their contents, and then arose a cry " Fill up the walls again." The late Alderman J. J. Wilson says that the house has to all practical purposes been re-built since those days, seeing that it has had a new front, new back, new roof, a large central chimney stack removed, and most of the floors re-laid. In the yard behind, however, there is still to be seen a W. leaden cistern bearing the initials and date I. S. for John and Sarah Wilson. 1781. 394 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Unfortunately I have practically nothing to record concerning this most delightful old building, with its central gable. Upon pages 165 and 166 I have already gone pretty fully into the subject of that wonderful cure-all, the Quakeress's Black Drop, and here in this shop window for a long / U THE Original MlacU Mr op I*-Mr 1*- time was displayed the poster, as illustrated, announcing that Hannah Backhouse sold over the counter her " Original Black Drop " from a secret recipe known only to herself. ^. «.,,.«, , Down Yard No. 27 there is an ancient building, Roman Catholic Chapel. measuring 19 by 10 yards, which immediately strikes one's attention. At present it is a warehouse wherein Mr. Hunter stores his antique furniture, but in reality it is the old Roman Catholic Chapel which became disused when that body built their new chapel in 1837 upon the New Road. After the time of Thomas Maynes, who was Vicar of Kendal from 1520 to 1534, there appears to have been no regular Roman Catholic priest at Kendal for some 200 years. Whilst the Penal Laws against Roman Catholics were on the Statute Book, we find by a reference to the Parish Church registers that a Roman Catholic marriage took place on the " 31st May, 1739, between John Borwick and Dorothy Jackson, both of Kendal, married by a ' Papist Priest.' " Another entry appears as follows : — " 1745, April 23rd, Thomas Coupland and Eliza Holme married by a Papist Priest, Mr. Barns." STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 395 Another entry, but in the burial register, is as follows :— " 1761, Septem. 6th, Rev. Mr. James Gandy, of Kirkland, Papish Priest." Probably he lived at the last house on the west side of Milnthorpe Road, which tradition says has been a house where Mass was celebrated in secret. These entries re late most likely to the founders of the present Roman Catholic Mission, at all events we find the first mention of a separate c h a p el in the year 1793. It seems at first to have been little more than a disused warehouse, but in that year the Rev. Robert John son, of Dodding Green, transformed or re-built it into a chapel. On the front of the gallery can still be seen the inscription : — in - tympano - et - choro - in -chordis-et-organo-laudate-domi- num, taken evidently from Psalm 150, v. 4, " Laudate eum in tympano et choro ; laudate eum in chordis et organo." This Robert Johnson followed Father James Gandy, and resigned in the year 1792, when he was followed by the Rev. Thomas Wilkinson, who had been his curate for five years. The living was then only worth £20 a year. With indomitable energy Wilkinson succeeded in raising a church orchestra of string and wind instruments, and it is said that Kendal was the second town in England to form a Roman Catholic choir. After sixty-five years' faithful service Father Wilkinson retired in 185 1. The Rev. James Gibson succeeded; his holy life and strong faithfulness to his duty made him revered by all who 396 KIRKBIE KENDALL. came to know him, and Kendal sustained a great loss when on the nth January, 1895, in his 78th year, he quietly passed away. As Chaucer says : — " To drawen folk to Heven by fairnesse, And good example was his besinesse." The Rev. William Stephenson is now the priest in charge. The baptismal register commences in the year 1742. The entries are made in a curious way, merely an entry of birth, although in reality no doubt they were meant to stand for baptism. The entries were thus made to avoid detection, as it was not then legal for a papist priest to perform any sacerdotal function. Extend ing over twenty-one years, there are only twelve baptisms in all, which proves how small in number Roman Catholics were at that time. For some time after the disuse of the old building it held the Museum of the Kendal Literary and Scientific Society until its removal to Stricklandgate. The foundation stone of the present chapel was laid on October 27th, 1835, by W. C. Strickland, and the building was opened for service on the 13th day of September, 1837. It is dedicated to the Holy Trinity and St. George, and within a canopied niche is a fine sculptured piece, representing St. George and the Dragon, from the chisel of Thomas Duckett, who also embelished the chancel with statues of our Redeemer, the Blessed Virgin, St. Mary Magdalene, and St. George. The interior of this sacred edifice gives the impression of a strange admixture ; common in its seating accommodation, but decidedly impressive in its chancel. The altar and screen, raised up upon a flight of steps, are splendidly executed and elaborately ornamented in stucco, the latter being a composition of recesses, with statues, and the former bearing on its front an emblematical figure of the lamb, together with two angels in the attitude of prayer. Both are painted and gilded in the continental style. At the back of all is a three light window. The centre light represents the founder of the new church, Rev. Thomas Wilkinson, in the presence of St. Cuthbert, the patron ofthe diocese (represented in the first compartment), offering the church to our Lord. Our Lord blesses the offering, and places it under the care of St. George, the patron of the church, who is represented in the right hand compartment. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. m Another window, by Hardman, in the north-east corner, is to the memory of Dean Gibson. The upper portion represents "The Good Shepherd," the middle " Our Lord giving his charge to St. Peter," " Feed My Sheep ! " and the lower portion represents the dean in red vestment in the attitude of prayer. The light over the vestry door to the south represents St. Joseph, and is to the memory ofthe Ellison family; and that over the door to the north represents St. Ann teaching her daughter the Virgin, and is to the memory of the Denver family. Amongst other fine stained windows, the one bequeathed by the Ellison family as a memorial to the late Father Gibson, in the south aisle, is the glory of the place. The most magnificent piece of coloured glass and stained work that Kendal can boast ; too good by far for the dark corner in which it is placed. The pulpit came out of the old church, and is said to have been the gift of the Rev. Father Johnson. There are also two pieces of carved oak panels worthy of close attention, one placed in the pulpit side, and another at the west end of the southern aisle. The new side altar is also a beautiful piece of oak work, from Beyaert of Bruges, and one cannot leave the building without a wish that our Protestant churches of Kendal would feel more than they have done in the past that the best and most beautiful of human art should be dedicated to the Temple of God. The " Lamp of Sacrifice " is not brilliant in our church buildings of to-day. The Sunday School was started by the Rev. Thomas Wilkinson, and was taught by a Mrs. Littleton in a cottage in the yard. After her death, I believe, there was an interval of some fifteen years, after which time Thomas Duckett, the noted sculptor, recommenced the work. The three substantial houses that project somewhat forward No. 31 to 35. were built by the Rev. Father Johnson at the end of the XVIIIth century, and they became the property of each successive Bishop of the Diocese. _„ _ Adjoining to the east is Gibson's Place, which was formed Gibson's Place. J , „ L , in the year 1782, when New Street was opened out, but with the exception of the front, it was almost entirely re-built by Edward 398 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Gibson, a builder, in 1812. The late Dean Gibson, who purchased the property in 1857, made some considerable alterations. The doorway to his residence he removed to the other side, which is now only a few yards from the vestry of the church. On the railed verandah in front he erected a glass house for his plants, and the garden was extended to the new iron rails erected in a line with those in front of the church. He also obliterated the stone looking to the river, which had the inscription : — GIBSON'S PLACE. 1812. By the generosity of Dean Gibson, trees were planted along the New Road in December, 1858. __ __ On crossing the road, we come to the house which was for a short No. 30. time a tavern known as the "Queen Victoria," established about the year 1840. ~~ , « „ These houses were re-constructed or re-built at the close Nos. 32 and 34. of the XVIIIth century, when " Squire Hoggarth," a weaver by trade, was the proprietor. On the frontage there is a beautiful specimen of a leaden rain-water spout head, which bears the date 1780. Here William Sleddall for a long time carried on a school until his death in 1813. „,. „ _ . n „ At the foot of Black Hall Croft, we come to what was in St. George s Hall. the XVIIIth century the town house of Jacob Morland, of Capperthwaite Hall. It is supposed to have been the first house erected in Kendal with proper plans, specification, and contract. Afterward it became the first County Court Office, when John Smith Wilson was registrar, and in the square behind there is still to be seen one of those long Westmorland windows, for which this town at one time was so noted. St. George's Hall was built in the year 1879. „ __ After passing the front of the lane, there is a capital house, with double flight of steps, occupied at one time by Edmund Tatham, surgeon, and since by the late John Farrer. It stands upon the site of an earlier house occupied by Thomas Gibson, of the firm of Gibson and Gough, which was taken down in 1786, and after being rebuilt it became the house where STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 3gQ was first established the Maude, Wilson and Crewdson Bank, founded simul taneously with the Wakefield Bank on the ist of January, 1788. In 1792 the business was removed to No. 69, Highgate, which was purposely erected for it. The partnership between Joseph Maude, Christopher Wilson, and Thomas Crewdson, of Kendal, bankers, under the firm of Maude, Wilson, and Crewdson, was dissolved, by the death of Thomas Crewdson, in the year 1795. The business was then carried on by Joseph Maude, Thomas Holme Maude, Christopher Wilson, Christopher Wilson, jun., and William Dillworth Crewdson, under the firm of Maudes, Wilsons, and Crewdson. This co partnership was dissolved by mutual consent on the 31st day of December, 1801 ; and the business was then conducted by Thomas Holme Maude, Christopher Wilson, Christopher Wilson, jun., and William Dillworth Crewdson, under the firm of Maude, Wilsons and Crewdson. Finally, it became amalgamated with the Wakefield Bank in 1840, under the style of " The Kendal Bank." But to return to this house, we find it became after this the residence of Robert Dixon, an eminent tanner, who caused the spacious hall, it is said, to be made for exercise, as he was a martyr to the gout. This inn, called by the rebels " The Gallowav coming Nag's Head Inn. r , „ „ , , ^, " . out of the Bog, was tenanted by Thomas Tate in June, 1854. To return again to the south side. The Temperance Hotel that No. 41 now is and the premises behind were tenanted earlier by Samuel Crewdson, hosier, then by John Gaskarth & Sons, linsey manufacturers, and subsequently by John Johnson, hosier, who took into partnership John Thompson. When they dissolved partnership, the firm became known as John Thompson & Sons ; and the last of the family of that name to reside in Kendal, and who twice served the office of Mayor, was the late James Thompson, of Singleton Park. At the back there is another old Westmorland window. The house that sets back is of a very ancient date, and when John No J9 Todd made his plan in 1787 there was between this house and that of Thomas Crewdson's, No. 53, a very wide entry, which led into the yard where their warehouses were. 400 KIRKBIE KENDALL. ^ __ In one of the early deeds (about 1690) of this house there is a plan drawn, giving it the name of "The Cross House," arid where it is shown as projecting out across the pavement as far as the present kerbstone. It passed from Herbert to Thomas Gibson in 1710, from Thomas Gibson to John Wilson in 1764, and was then described as situated " in Lierlian Street, commonly called Stramongate ; " and from John Wilson to Thomas Crewdson in 1779, who carried on an extensive hosiery business close by. The long stair case window, measuring 33 feet by 2 feet 9 inches, is the best specimen that we now have of the old Westmorland windows. When the house was re-built in 1792 it was set back to its present frontage, and the high wall of the burial ground adjoining, which also extended out to the kerbstone, was likewise at this time set back in a line with the new - building, thus leaving many a grave below the present pavement. To compensate, as it were, for the ground thus taken, the Lord of the Manor granted permission for the burial ground to extend backwards as far as the New Road, and one can see to-day the junction on the west side wall where this extension has taken place. _ . , . „ , Those who are fortunate enough to possess a Friends' Meeting House. , * copy of John Todd's plan will there see a good plan of the original Friends' Meeting House, constructed about 1688, and which, when taken down, was found to have been built with clay, instead of lime mortar. On the door was discovered the date 1688, and it is probable that the Society was introduced into the town by George Fox about 1645. As confirmatory to this date of building, I would refer to the inscription which was scratched upon a cottage window pane in reference to the height of a flood, as given on page 22. The illustration on next page, shows the steps that led up from Yard 59 to the gallery of the chapel over a portion of the caretaker's house. The burial ground must also have been in use in these early days, as we find that one of the preachers is recorded to have been buried here on the 24th day of September, 1743. As I have just intimated, the ground was enclosed on the Stramongate side by a high wall and large folding gates, over which a few aged trees reared their heads as guardians of the portal. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 401 The present building was erected in the year 1815, nearly on the same site, to accommodate 1,200 people. The Sunday School was first started in the Meeting House about the year 1830, but the classes be came discontinued in 1839. Soon after another attempt was made, with little better success, for we find that the school again dwindled away about 1856. How ever, in February, 1859, the scheme was resuscitated, the boys meeting in a room in the Black Hall Croft, and the girls in the Meeting House. Two years later the boys moved to a room on the New Road opposite to J. Ireland & Co.'s works, and from this time the classes seemed gradually to grow, insomuch that in the year 1869 and 1875 more rooms in the same building had to be added. At last Stramongate Hall was built in 1880 to accommodate both sexes, and the school has ever since increased in usefulness. On the northern side of the road there is now a pot shop, No. 56 to 66. . , , , „ where Dr. Longmire resided when Mayor in the years 1855 and 1861. The house has been re-built upon the site, as some say, of the old Cross House. The plaster and painted house adjoining occupies the site where Jonathan Dawson* hosier, and Mayor in 1787-8, lived. Next house but one to this also lived another worshipful hosier, the genial John Suart, Mayor in 1793, and 402 KIRKBIE KENDALL. again in 1807, before it was re-built. The properties are coupled together, as it would appear that most, if not all the hosiers, occupied places in Stramon gate. Suart's house, when taken down in 1815, was found, like the old Friends' Meeting House, to have been built with clay. _ , . _ -. . . For more than two centuries since its foundation in Friends' Day School. ,„,,...,„,,, 1698, the Friends School has played an active and conspicuous part in the educational history of Kendal. The following minute was made at a quarterly meeting of the Friends, held in Kendal, in November, 1697 : — " This meetting haveing had under their consideration ye erecting of A scooll for ye Education of their children and have Agreed yt Kendall may be ye place for one yeare, J. Blayklinge is desired speedily to write to Christr : Win and give him account of what is her.e Agreed upon, and yt £16 per Ann. be assured to ye Scooll master." Things moved slowly in those days, posts were infrequent, men did not greatly hurry themselves, so that it was not till January, 1698, that the preliminary arrangements were made and the school was in operation. The first master was John Jopson. In 1706 the school had so well increased that an assistant master was engaged at £10 a year. The school premises adjoined the Meeting House on the south side. About the year 1715 Thomas Rebanks succeeded Jopson, and in 1728 a boarding school was established by him in connection with the day school. For full fifty years this worthy man held the position. Here is a copy of a school bill in those days: — Trustees to Richard Willan, Dr. To Boarding & Schooling for Lanc'lot Willan. £ b. d. N.B. — The last paymt discharged to 20th, 4th Month, 1734, since which to 20th, 10th Month, 1734, One £ year ..... 400 To nth. ist Month, 1735, Wn. he left, n weeks and upwards more .... I 14 o Vulgar Arithmetic 10s MercM Accompts £1 1/- in o Firing at home & school i/6, Oil lamp black 4d. ... o 1 10 Worsted and Thread for a long season 010 Keced of James Wilson the Contents of this Note in full by me Thos. Rebanks. Kendal, 14th 3rd Month, 1735- £7 7 io STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 4o3 When the Pretender's following passed through Kendal, the tail of it was lodged in poor Rebank's house, which they fairly well ransacked, making it difficult for our pedagogue even to retain his watch and silver buckles by the which he set great store. Soon after his retirement, the committee reorganised the foundation of the school on broader principles, and erected the present building in the year 1772 upon a portion of the Bryan Lancaster's estate, with the influential assistance of the Society of Friends all over England. George Bewley, " a man of superior mind and a good classic," followed as headmaster. Here is a copy of a printed circular addressed by the Friends of Kendal to friends generally, on the school of Kendal : — THE ESTABLISHMENT OF SCHOOLS AMONGST FRIENDS FOR THE EDUCATION OF YOUTH IN THE VARIOUS BRANCHES OF USEFUL KNOWLEDGE. Having repeatedly engaged the Attention of the Yearly Meeting and also several Quarterly Meetings in this Nation, though little hitherto hath in Consequence thereof been Effected: And as George Bewley, George and Leonard Raw, did sometime ago intimate to Friends here their Willingness to unite in this useful Employment, provided a House was Erected convenient for the purpose : We took the Matter under our serious Consideration, and having had Convincing proofs of their suitable Qualifications for the Undertaking, in the satisfactory Essays they have already made among us in a separate Capacity, we thought they merited our warmest Encouragement, and we have accordingly Erected a Capacious House in a retired and healthful part of the Town, which is now finishing with all possible Expedi tion, divided into four Commodious Apartments, which, tho' perfectly distinct, will yet by help of Glass in the partitions be under the view of one person ; the Expense whereof when Completed will amount to about five hundred pounds, for the Discharge whereof and the purchase of a Library for the public Service of the School, a Subscription has been opened here, and we have liberally contributed thereto, according to our respective Abilities. Now as we move upon principles of general Utility, in making this ample provision, having before a House more than Sufficient to accommodate the Youth that are likely to arise among ourselves, when taught after the usual Methods : We therefore hope our Friends at a Distance in affluent or Easy Circumstances, for whose benefit as well as our own the Institution is Calculated, will generously Contribute toward defraying the Expense of Carrying this beneficial Design into Execution. Kendal, the 23rd ofthe 3rd Month, 1772. I have before me a prospectus of this school dated 1722, from which I extract the following : — 404 KIRKBIE KENDALL. At Kendal in Westmorland Was lately opened, under the Direction and Management of George Bewley, George and Leonard Raw, A new large & commodious School, in an open, healthful, and retired Situation Where Youth are instructed £ ¦¦ °Pen to children of- all religious denominations, was built in 1835 at a cost of £610— of which sum £485 was raised by voluntary subscription, and £125 granted by the Government Commissioners of Education. It was enlarged in 1857 and again in 1899. Castle Street Cemetery. Meldrum's large garden was purchased in 1842, and was first used as a cemetery in May, ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, KENDAL. STRAMONGATK AND LONGPOOL. 4i5 1843, for the funeral of Miss Wakefield. The cottage was built in 1843, and the foundation stone of the chapel laid on the 12th day of July, 1845. Within the stone was deposited a glass bottle containing a copy of each of the Kendal newspapers, several coins presented by Mr. J. Severs, and a written scroll stating the objects of the founders. A brass plate attached to the bottle bears the following inscription engraved upon it : — " Kendal, July nth, 1845. — This chapel was built and cemetery established by deed of trust, vesting them both in the following trustees, for the benefit of all who may use them for the inter ment of their dead : — William D. Crewdson, J. J. Wilson, W. Wilson, Edw. Crewdson, I. Whitwell, W. Wakefield, E. Wakefield, W. Braithwaite-Benson, &c, &c." _ Opposite to the " Castle Inn " are some cottages, the upper rooms of which were formerly united into one fairly large room, where the Primitive Methodists (introduced by Frank Jersey, a converted sailor), first held their meetings. Here they remained until their new chapel in the Black Hall Croft was erected in the year 1872. _ , _ This row of houses was built about 1821, and Kent Castle Crescent. Terrace chiefly about the year 1823. _,. „« . ,., , Stockbeck, on the elevated banks of which the St. George's Church. ' , r , „ „ . , , church stands, has its name from the Saxon stok (a village) and the Danish "beck" (a brook). In order to escape the over flowing of the Kent the ground was raised some four feet or more, and the building was commenced in 1839 and consecrated by the Bishop of Chester on the 17th of June, 1841. The endowment was transferred from the old St. George's Chapel, and the funds for the erection— some £4,500— were procured by subscription, augmented by a grant from the Church Building Fund. The church measures 118 feet by 64 feet wide. The two western towers are 13 feet in diameter, and rise to a height of 100 feet. There is accom modation for some 1060 sittings, of which 900 are free and unappropriated. The parsonage was erected in 1849 at a cost of £850. 1841-1843.' — Rev. W. J. Woodcock 1844-1847. — Rev. M.I. Finch. 1847-1856— Rev. J. B. Meredith. Vicars. 1856-1875. — Rev. E. Gabriel. 1875-1893. — Rev. Geo. Crewdson. 1893 .—Rev. R. W, Britton. 416 KIRKBIE KENDALL. _, _ _ , The Sunday School was founded in 1826 during St. George's Schools. y 5 the curacy of the ^Rev. Richardson. When the new church was building the school removed to a room connected with the brewery in Castle Street, and after the erection of the present day schools near the Railway Station in 1853, the Sunday School has found a comfortable quarters there ever since. Returning again into Wildman Street through Ann Street, we notice a house built by Ann Cookson with this inscription : — ANN'S PLACE Quis putaret 1836 (Who would have thought it ?) Wildman Gate in Speed's plan was greatly rebuilt in 1819, and widened in 1821. _ These works were built about 1760 or 1770, but the flat-coped, Brewery. . prison-like frontage has only been built within the last three years, when the frontage was set back to widen the street. In the old title- deeds this property is named " Sleddall Hall," and the site upon which the " Farmers' Arms" (formerly the "Weavers' Arms," and earlier still the "Pack Horse ") was built in 1770, is particularly described as the " Croft " belonging to the same. «» Down the yard adjoining, and through a doorway opening Yard No. 3. into a narrow passage on the left hand, there is still to be seen a remarkable piece of plaster ornamentation. It appears as if the passage now goes through what had formerly been a room of some importance — pro bably a portion of the Sleddall Hall — and that this plaster work decorated the F. overmantel. It consists of a central shield bearing the initials and date I. M. 1660, on either side of which are three horizontal panels, decorated with fruit and foliage with the exception of the lower ones, which bear on the dexter two birds, and on the sinister two lions rampant. The whole measures some six feet in length by two feet three inches in height. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 4I? No. 18. Immediately below the " Farmers' Arms," and where there is now a bakehouse, was, at the end of last century, a tavern known as the " Bottle and Glass." Prince of Wales' Feathers. °PPosite is the " Prin" of Wales Feathers," with its well-painted sign. Castle Dairy PerhaPs the °ldest house now existing in the town, and rich in antiquity, stands upon the north-west of Wildman Street -—a. tottering remnant, which but imperfectly sets forth a correct idea of its original shape. From the appellation given to it now, it would seem that it may have been used by the Barons as a dairy in connection with the farm ; but it is well known that prior to the end of the XVIth Century, such offices as these were always situated within the outer wall of the keep. Tradition also affirms that the laundry was situated here, and, further, that it became the residence of the steward or overseer. On a stone outside above the central window, and within a sunk panel, are the initials " A.G.," with a cord of sundry knots entwined and the date 1564, for Anthony Garnett, the proprietor. On the splay of the western kitchen window-head can still be seen the incised motto : — "QVI . VADIT . PLANE— VADIT . SANE," and " A.G." in cypher. This same idea is rendered into English on coeval glass in Worlingworth Church, Suffolk— "\}t nt hialke plainly— irralketlj aaucln." At the south-east corner and on the upper floor is a bedroom that is said to have once been the chapel. One can hardly realize this, for if it were intended for the estate husbandman and servants, as well as for pilgrims passing on their perilous journey over the fells to and from Shap Abbey, it is scarcely likely that it would be placed in such an inaccessible corner. For undoubtedly the ancient doorways to the building are those which can still be seen, by going round to the back, at the north-west corner of the building, 418 KIRKBIE KENDALL. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 41g which are as far away removed from this room as a diagonal line must be. By the way, these ancient doorways, unseen by the public passing along the comparatively modern turnpike road, are worthy of a close inspection. But to return to the bedroom, whether it was the chapel or not, it is undoubtedly the most interesting room left untouched in the building. The ceiling is vaulted and spanned by three cross oaken ribs, at the crown of which there were three carved bosses. Of these only two now remain. The one nearest the window has a shield of four quarterings, viz. :-i, two barrulets engrailed, on the upper one a mullet pierced, for Parr ; 2, three chevronels interlaced, for Fitz Hugh ; 3, three water-bougets, two and one, for Roos ; 4, three gryphon's head erased, Or, for Thomas Garnett. On the next boss there is another shield also of four quarterings, viz. :-i and 4, a fess dancette between nine billets, four and five, for Deincourt ; 2 and 3, three escalop shells, two and one, for Strickland. The foot ofthe rib nearest the window rests upon a richly-carved corbel on the western side only, which is made up of two gryphon's heads. The Castle Dairy. The principal piece of furniture is a large oaken bedstead, upon the head board of which there are two rows of carved panels in bold relief. On the upper row we find first, a mask with horns ; second, a shield bearing the initials A. G. conjoined by a fanciful knotted cord, with the inscription " omnia vanitas " cut upon a scroll ; and third, a mask in cinque-cento style. On the lower row there are three lion's masks in as many panels. ' 420 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Beside the bed there is a beautiful ambrey, on the cornice of which is inscribed the words — oia ¦ vanitas ¦ honor * divicie • potestas, and at the base there is the date, anno • dni ¦ 1562, with the initials A. G. on either side. In the window there are four diamond panes of stained glass, viz. : — 1, A. G. with the date 1565 ; 2 and 3, an oak tree erased Argent, fructed Or, on its branches an eagle and child, Or ; 4, the date 1567 • omnia • vanitas, the initials A. G. interlaced with cord, and a skull head. The kitchen is interesting by reason of the fine " clavey " or oak mantel shelf that extends the whole width of the house, and the two diamond panes of stained glass in the stone mullioned window, viz : — 1, the date 1567 • omnia vanitas " viendra • le ¦ iour with the initials A. G. interlaced with cord, and a skull head ; 2, a fleur-de-lis within a tasteful border in cinque-cento style, surmounted by a crown. There is also a small oak cupboard decorated with a linen pattern panel. Within an old chest was discovered many years since a missal, and within a smaller box were a dozen beechen roundles, some 5^ inches in diameter, gilded and painted, six of one pattern and six of another. In the centre of each was a representation of an animal with a quatrain beneath. These roundles are supposed to be of the time of Henry VIII., the letters being half-printing, half-running hand, with red Lombardic initials at the beginning of each line. The verses are given at length in Nicholson's Annals of Kendal and the roundles themselves are preserved in the Museum. We fear that we must ascribe the rumoured subterranean passage to the Castle to no higher authority than that wild fancy which thus gilds, to its own delight, antique and curious buildings in all parts of our country — that native spirit of poetry " One with our feelings and our powers And rather part of us, than ours,'' without a sprinkling of which this world in all its teeming beauty might be too much of a dull reality. Railway Inn. This inn was known in the Year z79^> by the sign of the " Lowther Arms," a name which it continued to bear until after the completion of the railway. In the year 1850 it was greatly altered by STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 421 its landlord, Thomas Fisher, since when it has been considerably altered and added to from time to time, notably some two years ago. _ ., It is interesting to remember that Kendal was one of the earliest Railway. h of provincial towns to be blessed by a railway. The battle for the line — north and south — began in 1836. There was a severe contest between the east coast towns, the west coast towns, and the central towns for the favour of the great trunk to connect London with Scotland. Kendal took the lead in the contest, and there was little prospect at that time that any more than one through line could pay. A railway committee was at length formed, of which Cornelius Nicholson was appointed secretary. He visited Penrith and Carlisle, formed local committees, and set about the great task of raising a capital of £1,200,000. And here the projector must certainly have failed if he had not been able to persuade the railway companies already in operation between London and Lancaster to subsidise the projected Lancaster and Carlisle Branch. They ultimately promised £500,000, and the remaining £750,000 was raised by dint of personal canvass ing in the district. The Bill passed through Parliament in 1844, and the first sod was turned at Grayrigg in September of the same year. The prospectus was for only a single line of rails, but it was thought advisable at once to enlarge the plan, and the proprietors having borrowed the additional amount, determined most judiciously that a double line should be at once laid down. Finally, it was opened to the public for traffic in September, 1846. Some disappointment was naturally felt at first in Kendal, when it was found that this line could not be brought nearer the town than Oxenholme. To repair this defect surveys were immediately made from Oxenholme through Kendal to Windermere. There was no difficulty then in raising capital for the project, as a mania was setting in, and this little undertaking needed no support from the outside world. The original intention was to carry the line as far as Lowwood, but this would have entailed a viaduct over the Troutbeck stream, which the engineer calculated could not cost less than £11,000, a serious addition to the estimate of £125,000 to Windermere. This, however, was likewise for only a single line 422 KIRKBIE KENDALL. of rails, and another £40,000 was required for constructing a double rail. The Act passed through Parliament on the 30th of June, 1845, and the line was opened for traffic amid great rejoicings on Tuesday, April the 20th, 1847. ICBMBJil^ & IIIDi^ISli RAIL'S AYi Opening tfnouejf) to SHfn&ermere, On TUESDAY, 20th April 1847. LEAVING KENDAL AT 12 O'CLOCK, NOON. t& nsrtinit mt @ p.m. Copy of the Second Class Ticket, which was printed in green ink on a buff card. The Kendal Station at first was only a mean wooden erection, but it was rebuilt in i860 at a cost of between £7,000 to £8,000. I have before me as I write a Parliamentary Report from the Select Committee upon this proposed new branch, dated 230 die Maii, 1845. It is a most interesting paper, giving not only the estimates of the cost, but also the names of those gentlemen who came forward at once to take up shares and become directors. The principal names are : — Edward Wilson (Chairman) ... £1,250 John Harrison £2.500 C. L. Braithwaite 250 Cornelius Nicholson 3,500 Jas. Bryans (Bowness) 250 *John Wakefield 2,500 G. B. Crewdson ••¦ 3.750 William Whitwell 2,500 Dr. John Davy (Ambleside) 250 John Jowett Wilson 2,000 *James Gandy .... 16,250 John Hewitson Wilson (Staveley) 1,250 John Gandy .... 12,500 *Christopher Wilson 2,500 » These gentlemen were not Directors. STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 423 The report is also interesting in that it gives a return of the traffic in passengers from Kendal to Bowness and Ambleside betwixt ist November, 1843, and ist November, 1844, as follows : — Passengers by Posting through the Plumgarth's Toll Bar. 728 pairs, averaging 4 persons each 2,912 572 cars, „ 3 „ „ 1,726 468 gigs, „ 2 „ ,, 936 364 saddle horses .... 364 T&'al 5,938 Passengers by their own private Conveyances. 150 carriages, averaging 4^- persons each 675 300 phaetons, averaging 3 persons each .... 900 450 gigs, averaging 2 persons each 900 900 saddle horses 900 Total Passengers by the Whitehaven Mail and by the Mazeppa Coach. 3.375 The Mail, 365 days, averaging 7 persons per day .... 2,555 The Coach, for 20 weeks in summer, 6 days a week, averaging 10 per day 1,200 Total 3,755 Actual returns taken for seven days in November, 1844 (the worst month in the year), give the number of carts passing one way only as 331, or at the rate of 50 per day, and it does not include carts laden with coals and lime, of which there were 62 tons of the former and 20 tons of the latter carried regularly per week. Beside this, there were some 39 tons of goods carried per 'week by carriers as follows : — Robinson, the carrier, had 48 horses on the road, each week averaging 12 cwt. per horse, and Ben. Townson had 16 horses, carrying a load averaging the same weight. Mr. Elijah Armitage has in his possession an oval brass plate, measuring about i£ by ij inches, upon which is inscribed around the border the words " Kendal and Windermere Railway Company," and " Season Ticket " in the centre. Under the railway bridge was an inn called Duke of Cumberland Inn. „ formerly the New Crown, and at the junction of the northern roads we have the " Duke of Cumberland," said to have derived its name from the fact that the Duke, when passing through Kendal, following the rebels in 1745, dismounted and had a glass by way of refreshment. 424 KIRKBIE KENDALL. The poor Duke had not so many friends between here and the border. Willowdene Will with his Mistress Rowe and. Lord Traquair were ever ready to assist him to alight from his chaise on some lonely spot and find sport in his discomfiture. So that one can well imagine the relief to his pent up feel ings as, on emerging from the moors over Shap Fells, he came in sight of this towns-end inn, and the exuberant pleasure of that quaff of brown Kendal ale. About one hundred years ago a very large granite stone, about ij yards cube, was placed in the centre of the street, in front of what is called " Salt Pie." It was the resort of all lads and newsmongers of the neighbourhood (their cauld-stane in fact). At last becoming a nuisance, it was buried beneath, where it still reposes unknown to the lads of to-day as they pass over and over it. But whether this stone was placed to mark the site of the ancient cross or not, is not known. It seems more probable that the cross stood at the junction of the two roads. _, . _ This house was built about 1812 on the south-west slope of Benson Knot, which rises 1,098 feet above sea level, for John Gough, "the blind philosopher," and one of the most remarkable men the North of England has ever produced, who lived and died there July 28th, 1825, aged 68. It is said that he chose the site as being favourable to his listening to the changes rung upon the Parish Church bells. The name has come through a misreading of the title deeds ; old Isaac Rigge, being defective in his eyesight, mistook the word " following " for " fowling," at which Gough became quite delighted, supposing that it was the "fowl yard" ofthe Castle, and although the blunder was soon discerned, he yet clung to the name, and it bears it to this day. St. Leonard's Hospital. Ab°ut a mile out on the APPleby Road stands a modern farm house, built in 1836 upon the site of the ancient Leper Hospital, of which there is only now but a small portion of the boundary wall remaining. This hospital was related to the Priory of Coningshead, but was not a dependency of it. William de Lancaster, fourth Baron of Kendal, gave the advowson of this hospital to the Canons regular of St. Augustine about the end of the XII"' Century. He also founded Conishead Priory, first as a hospital, giving it also to the Canons of St. Augustine, and which was afterwards erected into a priory. At the end of the XIVth Century STRAMONGATE AND LONGPOOL. 425 this hospital came to Sir William del Parr, and at the dissolution of the Monasteries in the 38th Henry VIII. it was granted to Alan Bellingham and Alan Wilson, and was valued at £11 4s. 3d. per annum. The duties were to lodge and feed the decrepit, the .indigent and lepers, as also to relieve the poor wayfaring passengers. Dodding Green Tl"S venerable old mansion> situated on the banks of the Mint, appears to have been built in 1682 by Robert Stephenson. This date is found on a downspout attached to the building, with , . S. f°r Robert and Alice Stephenson, who, by the way, we find R- A. convicted amongst other Popish recusants in 1678, and described as of Skelsmergh. Numerous paragraphs in the Rydal Hall docu ments refer to repeated sufferings of this couple under the penal laws in consequence of their steady adherence to their faith. It was this worthy man who instituted the Stephenson Charity, for which see " Horse and Rainbow Inn " in Highgate. He died 1723. The present edifice stands near the site of an older building, as is proved by the remains of an ancient gateway having been discovered on ground near the kitchen garden. Probably this more ancient building was erected by the Dodding family, who must have been in the district some century earlier than the date of the present building, as is seen from the baptismal entry in the Parish Church registers : — " 1558 Edmond ye sonne of William Dodin of Skelsmergh." The Boke of Recorde speaks of this family being both numerous and powerful during the 16th century. Stephenson died in 1723 and left his house and chapel to the Roman Catholic Church, charging it with the payment of 40s. a year to the poor of Skelsmergh and Patton. Since then several eminent ecclesiastics have lived here, notably Dr. Hogarth, Bishop of Hexham and Newcastle (1850 — 1866). In the year 1687 Bishop Leyburne, who was connected with the Cunswick family, and was then Vicar Apostolic of the whole of England, confirmed that year 138 persons at Witherslack and 65 at Sizergh and Dodding Green ; and it further appears that confirmation was given here in 1793 while the Kendal Church was being re-built by Dr. William Gibson, great uncle to our late Dean Gibson, and Vicar Apostolic of the northern district and Bishop of Acanthus. 426 KIRKBIE KENDALL. In the corridor communicating with the chapel and a staircase to the roof, there is the necessary secret closet for the safety of the priests during the time of the Penal Laws. It measures some six feet long by two feet broad, with plenty of head height, and, moreover, ventilation at the top. There is a story handed down of a priest named Abbe Ray, who was hunted into this chamber about the year 1689. His pursuers having seen him enter the house, searched everywhere, but having completely failed to find their prey, they determined to burn the house down over his head. But upon hearing this dreadful fate the poor priest made his escape to the roof and leaped down on to the bank at the back, calling out to his pursuers to spare the building as he was there, and finally made his escape through the wood and over the adjoining hill. Fortunately in the hurry of the pursuit the house was spared, for, collected in the several rooms, are many relics and valuable books. A portable altar which had belonged to the Roman Catholic martyr, Nicholas Postgate, who was executed at York on the 7th of August, 1679, is here held in con siderable veneration. There is also another portable altar labelled " Wither- slack Hall," which was given to Dodding Green by Lord Stanley. In the library are many very rare and beautiful books, the majority of which were probably collected by Robert Stephenson. There is one printed in 1660, and another bearing the signature on the title page of Mary Thornburrow, entitled A Daily Exercise of the Devout, by T. V., a monk of the Holy Order of St. Benedict, and printed by A. Dom in 1673. Also several other office books, dated 1724 and 1729, with the signature of John Huddleston and J. Holden upon them. Amongst the portraits there is one by Ducket, of the Rev. Henry Rutter, a priest stationed at Yealand, and the author of several ecclesiastical works. Priests at Dodding Green. 1716 — T. Royden. — John Huddleston. —I. Holden. -1799. — Robert Johnson. 1799-1801. — John Lonsdale. 1801-1803. — Thomas Johnson. 1803-1812. — Robert Bannister. 1812-1820. — Thomas Wilkinson. 1820-1838.— Henry Rutter. 1840-1858.— Charles Brigham. 1860-1868. — Robert Hogarth. 1868-1874.— Ralph Piatt. 1880-1890. — Luke Curry. 1891 —Henry Brettargh. X. Kendal Castle. Towering high, a ruin'd castle, old and gray, In mould'ring piles fast hast'ning to decay, Its towers and battlements all cleft, Its draw-bridge gone, and scarce a vestige left Of turrets, while circling round, a grassy moat, That speaks its rude defence in days remote — When sturdy archers strode along thy sheen, Equipped with bow, and clad in Kendal green." 429 KENDAL CASTLE. THE summit of Castle Hill is some hundred and seventy feet above the level of the river, which flows away on its western side ; and, it is much to be regretted that there is so little information to be gleaned concerning the past splendour of the old Castle, rising like a grey crown over the green hill and that has once been the great central pivot ofthe town. P -N Mounting up the northern slope of the hill, the earthworks surrounding the base-court and the square area itself measuring some no by 96 feet, first strike attention, and perhaps before you are aware of it, excite a keen interest. Here we have the outer court, which would at first be surrounded by strong palisades of oak. Within this defence, the area would be occupied by huts and sheds of daub and wattle for the retainers and for the cattle belonging to the great thane or franklin of Saxon days. Between this and the inner court is a cross moat, and the communication would be over a moveable bridge of planks. The inner ward has a circular area of about 250 feet in diameter, and the fortress raised by the " ceorl " here would have no stonework about it at all. Unfortunately it still seems necessary to repeat that the popular idea of the moat having once been filled with water is quite erroneous. The very depth and size is sufficient proof that it was not intended for water. No, the whole value of this moat as a defence consisted merely in its depth, in the steepness of the scarp and counter-scarp, and in the oaken palisade that surmounted the top. From the fact that a Roman legion once occupied a camp at Water Crook, a good mile to the south of the town, it is possible that they also took over this thane's dwelling, not so much for a camp as for a look-out post ; but it must be confessed that there is no masonry or other external evidence of such a Roman occupation. 43o KIRKBIE KENDALL. But the Norman conquest brought about a great change in these Norman. , , parts, and Kendal became by gift from the Conqueror the property of Ivo de Tailbois, a Norman baron. Now Ivo was already possessed with lands on the east coast of England, and it is to be imagined that he found those estates more enjoyable, for we find no definite information about his either building a castle or dwelling here. In the years following, when these counties were overrun so frequently by regular organised expeditions under Bruce, and when almost every household of value was plundered, and ravaged if not entirely destroyed, it became necessary for the barons to erect their buildings both inaccessible and massive, and with as little wood or combustible material in them as possible. More over, for similar reasons, they were obliged to do without any windows for light and air in the lower chambers, except such as could be obtained through long narrow loopholes which could easily be defended. It is just possible that the small donjon or circular tower that now stands at the north-west, and which is evidently of a date anterior to the rest of the ruins, may have been the early keep, standing alone as an Irish tower ; a shape which began to supersede the Norman square keeps at the beginning of the early English period. Possessing the elements of strength and passive resistence against assault, grim and foreboding, it must have been a cramped, dark and uncomfortable dwelling for the early inhabitants. In course of time, when the country became more peaceful and property more secure, the lord was enabled to push out a bit and gain more accommodation. Then would be erected the banqueting hall and spacious kitchens, the bed chambers, and, as necessity required, all the further apartments. But the Castles of Appleby and Kendal do not possess the same strategic importance as the Castle of Carlisle does, for there the Castle Hill commanded the only road through the country that was practical for wheeled conveyances — that is for the march of an army with the usual impedimenta. Kendal Castle on the other hand, lies remote from the great military road over Stainmore, neither is its name associated with either siege or assault. We must, therefore, look uppn it as a fortified residence of a subject only and not as a garrisoned fortress of the Crown. KENDAL CASTLE. 43l The Possessors. Iv° de Tailbois was succeeded by the de Lancasters, who became in succession Barons of Kendal. After four generations the male issue failed, and the property passed into the hands of Helwise, daughter of the second William de Lancaster. She was married in the reign of Richard I. to Gilbert, the son of Roger Fitz Reinfred, who was a Judge of the King's Bench, and, what is more to the point, a particular favourite of the King's. By a special grant, Gilbert obtained from King Richard I. the whole Forest of Westmorland, of Kendal and of Furness, to have and to hold in the same manner, in which William de Lancaster had held it. And it is to the lasting credit of this feudal lord and his wife that, having nearly unlimited power put into their hands, they preferred to use it wisely, rather than abuse it. The welfare of the community amongst which they lived seems to have been their chief care, and having noted the industry of tne Kendal people, they granted them privileges, gave them a seneschal, in the person of Matthew de Redman, then owner of Levens, practically re-built the church, and also instituted a weekly Saturday market with the King's consent. Now it seems to me more than likely that we owe to Gilbert the building of the Castle. He obtained from King John a continuation of the honour of Lancaster, and executed the office of Sheriff of Lancaster from the seventh to the seven teenth years of that reign. But Gilbert, the good, was unfaithful to John, his bad patron, and thus joined the rebellious barons. Unfortunately his son William having been taken prisoner, Gilbert was obliged to accept the King's terms, and pay a ransome for his son, together with Ralph Deincourt and Lambert de Brus, his esquires, twelve thousand marks ; also to find hostages for his own and their future fidelity, besides which he was compelled to deliver unto the King his Castle of Kirkby-in- Kendal, around which lay all his dependencies. However, the Castle and Manor were again restored to his son William, for we find that he was placed in his father's trust as keeper of the honour of Lancaster under date 25th Henry III. William and his sister Helwise married Agnes and Peter le Brus respectively, also sister and brother, whilst William's other sister Alice became the wife of William de Lyndsay. On the death of William de Lancaster, without issue, this very valuable estate was divided into two portions, the Lumley and Marquis fee going to Helwise, and the Richmond fee to Alice, 43^ KIRKBIE KENDAL L . KENDAL CASTLE. 433 By an inquisition taken on the death of Peter le Brus, 1279, son of the aforesaid Peter, we find that he was seised " of a moiety of the Manor of Kirkeby-in- Kendale, and as parcel thereof, of the Castle, with the parks, vivaries within the parks, and herbage therein of the yearly value of ten marks." The Castle, " with all in Kendale that had been Peter's in demesnes, villenages, rents and services of free men and others," fell to the share of his eldest sister Margaret le Brus. She married Robert de Roos, and had a son William, who had a son Thomas de Roos. When John Kempe came from over the water, in the year 1331, to establish here the Flemish industry (see page 206) he brought with him also his beautiful daughter Marguerite. And notwithstanding the protection which the baron afforded them, no enthusiasm could be aroused in our dalesmen to welcome either the weaver or his daughter. But fifteen years later the people needed no commands to celebrate the occasion, when Thomas de Roos led the acknowledged beauty of Kendal to the hymeneal altar. Old and young made a living avenue for the young lord and lady to pass through from the Church to the Castle. The Lady Marguerite, however, died within two years, and the Baron de Roos remained an unconsoled widower for forty years. About the year 1385, when he was not less than sixty-eight years of age, he was induced to marry again, that the barony might go forward in his line. The poor man, unable to forget his overpowering sorrow, allowed his friends to select for him a very worthy lady, who accepted him in spite of his declaration that it was useless for her to expect love ; that all the love he had ever in his power to give was buried in Kendal Churchyard. Whilst all these important changes were taking place, nearly a century rolled away, and during all that period the Castle remained practically deserted. By this marriage, however, the aged baron had two children— a boy, John de Roos, who died before his father, and Elizabeth, who was two years old when her father died, 1391. In due time she married Sir William del Parr, and thus carried the Lumley fee and the old Castle into the possession of the Parrs, a good family of limited wealth, who held the barony for nearly two centuries. 434 KIRKBIE KENDALL. Sir William died in 1405, and was succeeded by Sir John, who only survived his father some three years. He was succeeded by his son, Sir Thomas, who died in 1464, leaving two sons, William and John. The eldest married Elizabeth, a sister and co-heir of Henry, Lord Fitzhugh. He was made Knight ofthe Garter by King Edward IV., and appears to have been living in the 22nd Edward IV., but in what year he died we have not found. He had two sons, Sir Thomas, the elder, and Sir William Parr, of Horton, in N orthamptonshire. This Sir Thomas was master of the wards, and comptroller to Henry VIII. He married Maude, daughter and co-heir of Sir Thomas Green, by whom he had William, Katherine and Anne, and died in the year 1519. All his manors, lands and tenements he left to his wife Maude during her life. He willed his daughters to have £800 between them as marriage portions, and William to have his great chain, worth £140, which the " King's grace " gave him. By an-inquisition, after his death, of his lands in Westmorland, the jurors find that he was seised of the Manor of Kendale, with 1,000 acres of pasture, and £400 rent, &c, &c. In the Museum there is a drawing which came from Todhunter's Museum, which is said to be a copy of the one taken in the time of this Sir Thomas. Dame Maude Parr died in 1531, but to many of us the chief interest of the Castle lies, not so much with the tale of its battle- mented walls and strong defences as with the thirty-five years' life of her daughter, Katherine Parr, who was born here in 1513, for her's was the high honour of being among crowned heads, one of the first nursing mothers of our reformed faith. That cultivated girl, who KENDAL CASTLE, THE SEAT OF SIR THOMAS PARR, BART., FATHER OF QUEEN CATHARINE PARR, WHO WAS THE LAST WIFE OF KINS HENRY THE EIGHTH. From a- Picture in Mr. Todhunter's Museum- KENDAL CASTLE. 435 was reckoned so fair a prize, that even at the age of eleven years an alliance was sought with her by the great Lord Scroop, of Bolton. " Shee was told by an astrologer that did calculate her nativitie, that she was borne to sett in the highest of Imp'iall Majestie, which became moste true. Shee had all the eminent Starrs and planetts in her house : this did worke such a loftie con- ceite in her that her mother coulde" newer make her serve or doe any small worke, saying her handes were ordayned to touch crownes and scepters, not needles and thymbles." But however disposed the little Katherine was to From Lake Country Romances, — Rev. H. V. Mills. dispense with the performance of her tasks, Lady Maud was too wise a parent to allow vain dreams of royalty to unfit her child for the duties of her station, and notwithstanding Katherine's early repugnance to touch a needle, her future skill and industry in its use became so remarkable, that there are specimens of her embroidery which could scarcely have been surpassed by the far famed stitches of the sisters of King Athelstan. Among the Scroop MSS. there is a curious letter from her mother to Lord Dacre, in which she assures him that "there can be no marriage until my lord's son (Scroop) comes to the age of thirteen and my daughter to the age of 436 KIRKBIE KENDALL. twelve." Katherine, however, was soon married after this to Lord Borough of Gainsborough, "a discreet widower, well advanced in years." Then we find at the age of sixteen Katherine was left a widow, lovely and wealthy. How long she continued a widow is uncertain, but she was probably under 20 years of age when she became, for a second time, the wife of a mature widower, John Nevill, Lord Latimer, and again undertook the office of step-mother. Some two years later, at the age of thirty, that prediction of her brilliant destiny became true, for on the 12th day of July, 1543, she married her royal master, King Henry the eighth. Her brother William, who was born in 1515, was created Lord Parr and Roos, of Kendal, in 1539 ; Baron Hart, of Northamptonshire, in 1544 ; then in the same year Earl of Essex by right of his wife Anne, who was a daughter of the late Earl, and finally he was advanced on 17th February, 1547, to the further title of Marquis of Northampton, and from hence that portion of the barony which he held received the name of the Marquis fee. On the 18th of August, 1553, William was attainted of treason for espousing the cause of Lady Jane Grey, was condemned as a traitor, and Kendal Castle was seized by the Crown. However, his life was spared, and in the following year, by special charter, bearing date January 8th, Philip and Mary granted back to William without his honours, " the whole demesne, Manor, Castle, and park of Kendal and all those demesne lands without the walls of the said park and the mill and burgages in the Vill or burgh aforesaid." It seems to have been left to Queen Elizabeth in 1559 to grant back to him " for favouring the Protestant religion " all his honours and former possessions including the lordships of this town, and we know that he kept court here in 1561. William died without legal issue in 1571, and from this time the noble building seems, after long years of neglect, to have rapidly gone to decay. The deer park, which with the fourteen others around Kendal that at this time were so celebrated for their fallow deer, suffered first, being disparked in the year 1566. A survey made July 12th, 1572, thus mentions the domestic buildings, of which only a very few traces remain : — " The out walls embattled 40 feet square Within the same, no building left, saving only on the north side is situate the front of the gatehouse, the hall with an ascent of the stairs to KENDAL CASTLE. 437 the same with a buttery and pantry at the end thereof; one great chamber and two or three lesser chambers, and rooms of ease, adjoining the same, all being in decay both in glass and slates and in all other reparations needful. Under the hall are two or three small rows of cellars. In the south side is situated a dove-cote. The walls are circular, guarded by three towers, and a keep, with a large square area in the centre, being all in a state delapidation. In its doors and window jambs, and in a few quoins we find the red sandstone, but the main work is built with unhewn blue rock from the hills." About the year 1575 the slating was taken off most of the roof as being then dangerous, but in Henri Fissher's (of Kendal) inventory taken on November 5th, 1578, we read that the Castle was still partly slated. There is a State paper, addressed by Edward Braddyll to Lord Burghley, then Lord High Treasurer of England, dated April 10th, 1578, setting forth that the " Castell at this present " is of less selling value by £25 than it was at the last survey sixteen years ago. This is certified into Her Grace's Exchequer by the "others of 24 substantiall men ofthe baronye," who say that "the most parte of the rouffs of the said Castell are falne downe, the tymber and sclayte pitifully broken, the gutters of lead, iron in windowes and doors pilfered and stoln away. And if your Honors take not order of that which remayneth there will be lytle lefte to sell within short tyme." The remains were scarcely then sufficient to tell how vast the place was — " Where the great lord inhabited : now grass, Thin grass, and king-cups grow within the path." — Coleridge. Camden (155 1 — 1623) says " The Castle over against the town is ready to drop down with age," and neither of his learned editors who, in most instances, added materially to his description, have, in this instance, added a single observation. Grose has altogether overlooked it. After the death of Lord Parr, Queen Elizabeth made an exchange with the Marchioness, giving her other lands instead, and in 1581 the Queen granted " a part of the demesne lands belonging to the Castle, by the name of the park of Kendal, with divers edifices and other premises to Ambrose, Earl of Warwick, OO 00 THE EAST VIEW OF KENDAL- CASTLE, IN THE COUNTY OF WESTMORLAND. fy consent of J?le*»nfJI. crtiM fiz/nuu/f W/lwmrf^CaricaJter " " 5 ta § :41tA,i&~,» *£, ffd,*^. *>tG,l,Jmntmt»a*./'F*H^,r.tU~k*,. 1. JZirtt/a./ ¦'C/vH.-n. KENDAL CASTLE. 43g The curiously long-credited story that it was blown down by Oliver Cromwell from Castle How is, of course, quite erroneous. During Charles II. reign the Castle and lands appear to have been in the hands of Sir Francis Anderton. His son and heir, Sir Charles Anderton, settled them to the use of himself for life, and then in tail male. The two eldest sons died without issue. Laurence became a monk and was thus accounted dead in law, so Francis the next brother assumed the title, but he being engaged in the rebellion of 1715, the Crown seized the estate. There upon Laurence, to reclaim the property, renounced his faith, turned a protestant, and so finally enjoyed both title and estate. He sold the latter, however, in 1723 to John Huggins in open market. Huggins died in 1735, and the estate fell to his brother William, who devised it to his two sons-in-law, Sir Thomas Gatehouse and the Rev. Dr. James Musgrave, in 1761. The accompanying illustration (page 438), drawn by Buck in 1739, shows the Castle pretty faithfully as it appeared in those days. Dr. James Musgrave sold the property in 1765 to Thomas Holme and James Dowker, both of Kendal, and Benjamin Hall, of Cartmel. These gentlemen, after selling part of the lands, divided the remainder amongst themselves, and the Castle falling to the share of Dowker, came eventually to Mrs. Thomasin Richardson, his daughter, who planted that circular belt of trees, which is now such a thriving and pleasing skirting to the masonry. At her death it was purchased by Alderman Thompson. When the Poet Gray visited the ruin, in 1769, he says — "Almost the whole inclosure-wall remains, with four towers, two square and two round, but their upper parts and embattlements are demolished ; it is of rough stone and cement, without any ornament of arms, round, inclosing a court of the like form, and surrounded by a moat, nor ever could it have been larger than it is, for there are no traces of outworks." To this West replied, in 1779, saying — " Had Mr. Gray ascended from the end of Stramongate Bridge, which was the only way to it in its glory, and is the easiest at present, he would have observed a square area that had been fortified with a deep moat, and connected with the Castle by a draw-bridge, where was probably the base-court." Again, Whitaker in his Antiquities of Richmondshire, writes that — "The fragments of two towers, part of a curtain wall, and a portion of the great hall 44° KIRKBIE KENDALL. with some gloomy vaults beneath alone remains. It appears to have had no outworks and no detached gateway, no external protection save the deep foss and there is no sign of well or spring, but one of these it must have had." And so by degrees did this ancient pile fall gradually to decay, and I can find no record of any endeavour to save it from total destruction, until the January of 1813, when the owner strengthened the foundation, and took many other wise precautions to stay the fall. In consequence of the generous gift of £1000 made by the Directors ot the Savings Bank to the Corporation, The Camp of the Kendal Volunteers. they were enabled to approach Lady Henry Bentinck, and obtain about thirty acres of the Castle Estate for the very reasonable price of £2,400. Afterwards an additional thirteen acres on the south slope was purchased from Fleming's Trustees for £1,420 14s., Miss Fleming generously contributing £200 towards the amount. The whole of the estate was thrown open to the public as a memento of our Queen's Diamond Jubilee on June 22nd, 1897. As far as we know it to-day, we should find it difficult to conceive a more picturesque ruin as viewed from the town, encircled by green trees and with the KENDAL CASTLE. 441 glow of a mid-day sky shining through its now broken apertures and rugged outline ; it makes a fair picture indeed. But in days gone by, when the' Castle was at its best, a thickly-clustered pile of both round and square towers, joined together by flanking walls, it must have been doubtless imposing, almost impregnable and worthy even of proud little Kendal herself. The Ruins ^e m*nS aS seen to"day consist of an encircling or enciente wall built of the intractable Silurian stone of the neighbour hood, four towers, and some small remains of domestic buildings. It is said thaf the enclosure was entered by means of a draw-bridge, and in the moat ':^<--i'--&$g£mk&$M> s^£*&i!''.-:'<'l£y-a can still be seen two huge masses of stonework, as depicted on Buck's view of the Castle, dated 1739. The curious feature of this enciente is that it does not return at the southern end into itself, the diameter of the eastern segment being some 20 feet longer than the western segment. The battlements are all gone, and with them a considerable portion of their height ; the rampart walk has disappeared, and only in three or four places does the inner face of the wall remain. Where this is not so, a thin and modern wall has been raised on the foundations of the outer. The original walls are all of vast thickness, consist ing of rough stones thrown, as it were, promiscuously together and grouted with a cement concrete, which has in couse of time grown as hard as the stone itself. 442 KIRKBIE KENDALL. To the north-east we notice a square tower, open at the gorge, and which projects out some 18 feet from the curtain wall. The front of this tower measures about 28 feet, and it has only loop holes in the sides for light and defence. To all appearance now it has had three floors with external sets off on the front at each level, but according to Buck's view it would appear to have had four stages. The basement is a receptacle for sewage, draining into the moat by a very large opening. There is no defence between this tower and the projection at the south, so that the inmates, in perilous times, must have trusted to the depth of the moat and their own prowess to protect themselves. Coming to the south, we see a modern wall which has been built on the foundation of the old wall of defence, which was nearly three yards in thickness. The postern gate, if ever there were one, may have been located here. On the western side is a small drum tower, 18 feet in diameter, of no internal projection, and about half disengaged on the outside ; it is a bastion rather than a tower, the upper storey of which probably contained a garde-robe accessible from the rampart walk. At the north-west there is the oldest drum tower of all, of about 22 feet in diameter, and projecting about equally without and within the enciente wall. The walls are six feet thick, and it contains on the ground floor a vaulted chamber, which is entered from the inner court by a narrow doorway which was shut from the inside against cheeks. Clearly there have been upper floors, indeed a large window opening still remains, but there is no visible appearance of any stairway leading up to them. The domestic buildings already referred to in the Survey of 1572, were situated close by the northern tower. But during the last 300 years great destruction has taken place. The gateway has gone altogether, but two or three small vaulted cellars are yet to be seen, and one has a fireplace in it. The position of the buttery and pantry is gathered from the singular drain or sink shoot that is noticeable at the entrance of the projecting tower, and this would point to the dais of the banqueting hall being placed at the western end, with the great chamber behind it. " We pass ; the path that each man trod Is dim, or will be dim, with weeds: What fame is left for human deeds In endless age ? It rests with God." — Tennyson. 445 INDEX. Abbot Hall, 123 — 119, 140, 150, 160. Ale, 130, 178, 370, 424. All Hallows Lane, 20, 35, 59, 80, 127. Anchorite House and Well, 158 — 168, igg, 307- Assembly Rooms, 43. B. Bagmire Hall, 314. Bakers, 112, 187. Banks : — Liverpool, 35, 37, 103, 326, 399. Maude, Wilson & Crewdson, 37, 103, 326, 399- Savings, 125, 332. Wakefield, Crewdson, & Co., 103, 326, 3gg. Westmorland, i2g. Lancaster, 326 — 287. Bank House, 143 — 102. Barracks, 311. Baths and Washhouses, 80 — 20. Battle Place, 85. Bells, Town, 43, 45, 127. Benefit Societies, 81, 82, 26g, 28g. Black Drop, 99, 165, 394. Black Hall, 345. Black Hole, 299. Blindbeck, 155 — ig, 6g, 126. Blindbeck House, 151. Blue Buildings, 35g — ig, 118. Book Club, 109, 282. Branthwaite Brow, 380. Brathwait, Richard, 179. Bridges : — Blindbeck, 155. Miller, 380 — 18, 2r, 59, 97. Bridges — Continued. Nether, 196 — 18, 22, 23, 68, 187, 195, 199, 4°g. Stramongate, 4og — 18, 19. Brownsword House, 326. Bull Baiting, 35. Butcher's Rows, 18, 34, 35, 60, 72, 78, 119. Caledonian Rooms, 302 — 62. Canal, 382 — 19, 70, 380. Captain French Lane, i4g — 85, 160. Capper Lane, 157 — 131, 160. Castle, 42g — 5, 112. Crescent, 415. Dairy, 417—5. Hill, 5, 20, 382. How Hill, 85—5. Lodge, 385. Mills, 384—5, 380, 409. Street Cemetery, 414. Catcastle, 85. Cauld-stean, 295 — 50, 304. Cemetery, 200. Cemetery Lane, 198 — 20. Central Buildings, 374. Chapel Close, 82, 310, 382. Chapels and Sects : — Baptist, 119. Christian Brethren, 408. Congregational, 382 — 59, 106, 129, 188 307, 322, 344. Friends' Meeting, 400—22, 184, 311, 323. Glasites, 102. Independent Methodists, 34. Inghamite, 86—102, 114, 355. 4°8- Morisonian, 139 — 106, 323. Mormons, 34. Plymouth Brethren, 407 — 96, 142, 323. 44° INDEX. Chapels and Sects — Continued. Presbyterian, 321—83, 106, 139, 302, 305, 345. 382. Primitive Methodist, 346 — 415. Roman Catholic, 394 — 77, 182, 190, 332, 361, 435. Sandemanians, 102. Unitarian, 306 — 83, 229. Unitarian Baptists, 118, 307. Wesleyan, 354—142, 304, 345. Charters Royal, 45. Church Missionary Society, 297. Churches : — All Hallows, 310 — 130. Holy Trinity — Bells, 253 ; Decoration of, 214 ; Early History of, 203 ; Festivities at, 216; Glass, 245 — 167, 213, 227; Lectureships, 213 ; Masses at, 160 ; Monuments, 247 ; Musical Festivals, 241 ; Organ, 239 ; Organ Gallery, 220, 226, 239; Pews, 238 — 101, 149, 213, 221, 233 ; Plan of, 212 ; Pulpit, 237 — 101 ; Rectors and Vicars, 205, 260 ; Registers, 259; Size of, 211; Tower, 209, 217; Yard, 21, 222. St. George's old, 297 — 144, 227, 415. St. George's, new, 415. St. Thomas's, 335. Clock, Town's, 293 — 43, 291. Clothing, 10. Coaches, 14, 141, 186, 276, 288. Defiance, 32. Flying Machine, 14, 15, 276. Good Intent, 32, 278, 280. Independent, 32. Lord Exmouth, 63. New Times, 27g. North Briton, 32. North Star, 62. Robert Burns, 32. Royal Liverpool, 32. Royal Mail, 269, 275. Royal Pilot, 280. Royal Union, 280. Telegraph, 275. Union, 32, 27g, 280. Coal, 131. Cock Fighting, 39, 172, 173. Collin Croft, 130 — 73, 157. Collin Field, 191 — 130. Colonel Square, 125. Conservative Club, 104, 142, 143, 145. Cordwainer's Hall, 30. Corporation, 45—30, 35, 38, 62. Cottons, Kendal, 324 — 41, 49, 133, 135. Cripplegate, 80. Cross Bank, 69, 107, 142, 146. Cross Gutter, 131 — 161. Cross Houses : — Highgate, 145. Kirkland, 191. Stramongate, 400, 401. Stricklandgate, 351. Cuckstool, 410. Curfew, 38. Dalton, Dr., 25, 404. Dockwray Hall, 360 — 288. Dockwray Hall Mills, 362 — 35. Doctress Wood, 149. Dodding Green, 405—77, 179, 394. Doodleshire, 413. Door Mutes, 151. Drainage of Town, 57. Dyer's Beck, 334. Economical Library, 109. Elections, Municipal, 55. Elections of 1818, 19, 62, 67, 68, 69. Entry Lane, 289. Fair, 6, 7, 343. Far Cross Bank, 424 — 20, 157. Female Labour, 18. Fisher Tarn, 58. Flag, Town's, 294. Floods, 21 — 22, 23, 97, 415. Fold, The, 344—185, 304, 355, 382. Fowl Ing, 424. Free Library, 297, 301. Galleried Houses, 7, 132, 340, 342, 344. INDEX. 447 Gas Works, ig8 — 20. Glebe House, 174 — 160. Goose Holme, 18, 22, 57, 58, 387. Gough, John, 25, 309, 349, 407, 424. Gray, the Poet, 12, 287. Grandy Nook Hall, 313. Guilds, 6, 114, 115. Gulfs, 97, 121. H. Home, The, 157. Hornbook, 138, 170. Horncop Hall, 361. Hospitals : — Dowker, 121-^120, 185. Memorial, 87. St. Leonard's, 424. Sandes, 133—132, 174, 182, 314. Inns : — Albion, 102. Angel, 39—49. Bear, 181. Bear and Ragged Staff, 149. Ben Hurd's, 328. Bird-in-Hand, 100, 156. Bishop Blaize, 114 — 49. Black Bull, 59, 79, 156, 3g2. Black Cock, 181, 315. Black Horse and Rainbow, 77 — 7g, 425. Black o' Moor, 335. Black Swan, 81 — 310. Blue Anchor, 157. Blue Bell, 128, 407. Boot and Shoe, 157. Bottle and Glass, 417. Bowling Green, 85. Bridge, 409, 114. Brown Cow, 339. Bull Head, 392. Butcher's Arms, 31, 71. Canal, 380. Castle, 415. Castle and Griffin, g6. Cock and Dolphin, 188 — 413. Commercial, 31 — 18, 33, 3g, 62, 67, 6g, 71. Cordwainer's Arms, 34g. Inns — Continued. Cross Keys, 188, 190. Crown, 269—32, 82, 322. Crown and Mitre, 65, 66, 129. Dog and Badger, 181. Dog and Duck, 82, 377. Dolphin, 79 — 82. Duke Charles, 401. Duke of Cumberland, 423 — 49. Dun Horse, 391. Dyer's Arms, 144. Elephant, 323. Ewe and Lamb, 181. Exchange, 66. Farmer's Arms, 416. Fat Lamb, 157. Fish, 332. Football, 304 — 82, 305. Forester's Arms, 80. Fountain, 368. Fox's, ss. Fox and Goose, 32, 66, 67, 71, 82. Gardener's Arms, 315. George and Dragon, 309. Globe, 302 — 82. Golden Ball, 80. Golden Fleece, 72 — 31, 49, 76, 82. Golden Lion, 305 — 81, 150. Green Dragon, 326. Greyhound Frigate, 49, 332. Half Moon, 377, 378. Hammer and Pincers, 181. Hammer-in-Hand, 181. Hare and Hounds, 130. Hie Coomber, 190 — 188. Hole in the Wall, 305. Holly Hill, 33. House ot Lords, 339. Hyena, 315. Jolly Anglers, 102. Kent, 380. King's Arms, 274—32, 35, 62, 67, 69, 129, 150, 376. King's Head, 8i, 391. Labour-in-Vain, 335. Lamb and Flag, 181. Lord Nelson, 373. Lords and Commons, 353, 360. 44« INDEX. Inns — Continued. Lowther Arms, 420 — 49, 82. Malt Shovel, 131. Mason's Arms, 393. Moulder's Arms, 102. Nag's Head, 3gg — 22, 49. Nelson, 108. New Crown, 423. New Inn, 140 — 4g, 81. New Ship, 81. Oddfellow's Arms, 360. Old Ship, 155. Pack, 305. Pack Horse, 326 — 49, 178, 416. Peacock, 289. Prince of Wales' Feathers, 417. Pump, 367 — 20, 58, 81. Queen's Head, 181. Queen Catherine, 128. Queen Victoria, 128, 398. Railway, 420 — 22. Recruiting Sergeant, 393. Rifleman's Arms, 85. Ring o' Bells, 176 — 49, 157, 160, 174, 224, 240. Rising Sun, 182. Rock, 149, 150. Roebuck, 65, 75, 129. Rose and Crown, 285 — 81, 270. Royal Oak, 31, 71, 82, 95, 109, in, 157. Rule and Square, 157, 315. Sawyer's Arms, 354. Seven Stars, 345 — 81, 121. Shakespeare, 132 — 97, 185. Shoulder of Mutton, 393. Slip, 300. Star, 114. Strickland Arms, 354. Sun, 80, 121. Tanner's Arms, 103. T' Bell Neak, 353. Three Tuns, 78, 99. Turk's Head, 371. Unicorn, 108, 376. Union, 354. Victory, 38. Vintnor's Arms, 146. Weaver's Arms, 416. Inns — Continued. Wheat Sheaf, 41, 178 — 161. White Hart, 60—70, 81. White Horse, 342. White Lion, 287 — 82, 109, 129, 274, 361. White Sergeant, 3g2. White Swan, 150, 407.- Woodman, 161. Woolpack, 323— 4g, 313. Insignia, Town's, 51. J Jenning's Yard, 118 — gg. K. Kendal, Derivation of, 3. Fell, 356. Green, 363. „ Health of, 148. ,, Heath, 12. „ Height above Sea, 3 „ Plan of, 16, 17. Kent, River, 21 — 3, 5, 12, 13, 23, 29, 90, 415. „ Lane, 380. Kilner- Hall, 77. Kirkbarrow, 182 — 149, 160. Kirkland, 69, 101, 153. Lamps, Street, ig. Lead Hall, 368. Leaden Hall, 41. Leather Hall, 41. Library, 332. Link Boys, 198. Literary and Scientific, 332, 396, 407. Little Roods, 158, 184. London Missionary Society, 323, 382. Lound, 23. Lowther Street, 381 — 18, 59. M. Market, 303—6, 7, 340. „ Cross, 295 — 18, 4g, 50, 78. Maude's Meadow, 57. Maypole, 161 — 18. Mechanics' Institute, 108 — 104, 143. INDEX. 449 Mint House, go. Monument, 85. ,, House, 83 — 321. Moot Hall, 292 — 50, 290, 310, 342. Museum, 331—38, 43. „ Todhunter's, 371 — 121, 368, 434. Musical Festivals, 87. N. Natural History Society, 349. Netherfield Works, ig7. New Biggin, 2g— n, 18, 35, 45, 66, 340. New Inn Yard, i3g — 185. New Shambles, 378. Newspapers : — Agreeable Miscellany, 371. Kendal Chronicle, 178, 283, 330, 372. Diary, 371. Herald, 285. Times, 128, 373. Weekly Courant, 371. Weekly Mercury, 285, 371. Lonsdale Magazine, 284. Westmorland Gazette, 283 — 270, 372. Westmorland Journal of Useful Know ledge, 270. Night Watch, 115. Numbering of Houses, 21. Oddfellows' Hall, 108. Old Shambles, 71 — 18, 31, 35, 78. P. Pack Horses, 328 — 141, 145, 186, 319, 323. Pear Tree, 86. Philharmonic Society, 343. Pigeon Cote, 39. Pillory, 296. Police Station, 45. Poorhouse Lane, 189. Population, 25. Post Office, 375—97, 102, 146, 184, 272. Prince Charlie, 39. Prison, 336. Public Penance, 2ig. Pumps, 186, 188. R. Race Course, 87 — 89, 356. Railway, 421 — 19. Rainfall, 23 — 24, 25. Ralphford HaU, 393. Redman's Yard, 270 — igo. Roads, 18. Robbin's Coffee House, 60. Romney, George, 270 — i8g, 251, 376. Rosemary Lane, 406. S. Sandes Avenue, 20, 352. Scale Hall, 41. Schools : — Blue Coat, 137 — 108, 120, 122, 133, 174, Z33- British, 414. Castle Street Infant, 142. Church Sunday, 186 — 107, 160. ,, Infant Day, 186. Congregational Sunda}', 382. Fell Side Sunday, 313. Friends' Day, 402 — 34. ,, Sunday, 401. Grammar, i6g — 60, 98, 139. Green Coat Sunday, 185. Grey Coat Sunday, 185 — 186. Industrial, 385 — 105. Jenning's Yard Sunday, 107, 119, 185, 186, 233- Kirkland Girls' Sunday, 186. Lough's, 123. Miss Duncan's Girl, ng. Morisonian Sunday, 140, 185. Mrs. Knipe's, 120. National School, 82 — 233. Presbyterian Sunday, 323. Primitive Methodist Sunday, 347. Redhead's, 330. Roman Catholic Sunday, 3g7. Science and Art, 385 — 185. St. George's Day, 416. ,, Sunday, 416. St. Thomas's Sunday, 186, 336. Wesleyan Sunday, 356. Wilson's, 123. Scout's Scaur, 88. 450 INDEX. Sepulchre, 311. Serpentine Woods, 38, 78, 357. Skeat Hall, 368. Sleddall, Thomas, 54. „ Almshouses, 385. „ Hall, 416. Speed's Plan, 16 — 12, 360. Sprint, River, go. St. George's Hall, 3g8 — 356. Stirzaker, Richard, 33, 34, 72, 225, 275. Stocks, Kirkland, 174. „ Market, 302. Stone Cross, 191. Sunny Brow, 20. Syke, 310. Symonds, Rev. Dr., 60. Tan Yards, 102, 108, 113, 176, 189. Telegraph, 20. Thatched Houses, 8, 157. Theatres : — Crown Inn, 269, 321. Market Place, 304 — 319. Old Shambles, 321. Shakespeare, 132 — 142, 321. Woolpack Yard, 319^88, 132. Thorny Hills, 19. Time Gun, 38. Tinder Box, 193. Tithe Barn, 191. Tobacco, 95, 181, 374. Todd's Plan, 17, 18, 102, 155, 191, 399. Tokens, 98. Tolson Hall, 41. Town Hall, see Moot Hall and White Hall. Town View, 142, 336. U. Umbrella, 7, 340. Victoria Jubilee Bridge, 20. w. Watchfield, 195 — 20, 75, in, 165, igo. Water Crook, 3, 85. Waterloo House, 373. Well Syke, 150, 158. Westmorland Chimneys, 346. House, 32—36. ,, Windows, 400. Wharton, Dr., 12, 184. White Hall, Highgate, 41—35, 62, 79, 95, 105, 106, 127, 292. Stricklandgate, 345. Wiggins, Jimmy, 64, 67, 370. Wigs, 144. Wildmangate, 416. Windmill, 102. Workhouse, 357 — 18, 310, 327. ,, Kirkland, 189. Workman's Institute, 304 — 355, 392. 45i SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. Abbatt, E. J., Cliffside, Kendal (2 copies). Anderson, Lionel, Greenbank, Kendal. Argles, Mrs. T. A., Eversley, Milnthorpe. Arnold, H., Arnbarrow, Milnthorpe. Armstrong, W. B., Highgate, Kendal (3 copies). Atkinson, R., 36, Finkle Street, Kendal. Bagot, Captain, M.P., Levens Hall, Milnthorpe. Bank of Liverpool, Limited, Kendal. Baron, H. W., Castle Park Terrace, Kendal. Barrow-in-Furness Public Library. Bateson, Thomas, J. P., Bank House, Kendal. Bolton, John, Hollin Garth, Kendal. Braithwaite, J. H., Layer Breton, Kendal. Braithwaite, Cecil, Colhehurst, Watford, Herts. Braithwaite, Rev. H. M. 72, Shaw Street, Liverpool. Braithwaite, Harold B., Highgate, Kendal (2 copies). Braithwaite, Mrs., Hawesmead, Kendal. Braithwaite, J. M., 31, Wildman Street, Kendal. Brown, Mrs., Bank Top, Kendal. Bryce, Mrs., Burneside, Kendal. Busher, John, Park Villas, Kendal. Butterwith, Charles, Kendal. Cannon, Mrs., Lome House, Victoria Park, Manchester. Carlisle Public Library, Tullie House. Chaplin, A., Bookseller, Keswick. Clark, John, Broughtoii-in-Furness. Cockill, Dr., Lindum Holme, Kendal. Conder, Edward, Newcourt, Colwall, Herefordshire. Cooper Miss, Brantholme, Windermere. Cornish, J. E., 16, St. Ann's Square, Manchester. Cowper, H. S., F.S.A., Hawkshead, Lancashire. Cragg, Jno. W. T.,'8, Mayfield, Kendal. Crewdson, Mrs. Frank, Summer How (2 copies). Crewdson, W. D., Helme Lodge, Kendal. Crewdson, Howard, Levens, Milnthorpe (3 copies). Cropper, James, Ellergreen. Crofton, H. T., 36, Brazehose Street, Manchester. 452 subscribers' names. Curwen, Eldred, Withdeane Court, Brighton. Curwen, A. Darcy, Horncop Hall, Kendal. Darbyshire, Alfred, 17, Brazenose Street, Manchester. Davies, C. S., Highgate, Kendal. Derby, Earl of, Witherslack Hall (2 copies). De Rome, M., Airethwaite, Kendal. De Rome, Theodore, Beechwood, Kendal. Dickson, A. B., Abbott's Reading, Haverthwaite. Dixon, J. W., Fowl Ing, Kendal. Edmondson, Miss, Allerdale House, Keswick. Everson, Richard, 82, Highgate, Kendal. Farrer, Miss, 40, Stramongate, Kendal. Farrer, Mrs., Ingleborough, Lancashire. Fawcett, James, Aynam Cottage, Kendal. Fenton, Sir Myles, K.B., South Nutfield, Surrey. Formby, John, Far Close, Arnside. Friends' Book Society, Kendal. Gandy, James, Heaves, Milnthorpe. Gaythorpe, Harper, F.S.A. (Scot.), Barrow-in-Furness. Gawith, Mrs., Greenbank, Kendal. Gibson, Anthony Metcalfe, Coldbeck, Ravenstonedale. Gill, Edward, Finkle Street, Kendal. Gott, Thomas Atkinson, Sunnyside, Kendal. Gray, Henry, Goldsmith's Estate, East Acton, London. Grayson, F. C, 70, Highgate, Kendal. Greenwood, R. H. Bankfield, Kendal (2 copies). Greenall, G. B., Thorny Hills, Kendal. Greenall, Charles, Thorny Hills, Kendal. Hamilton, John, Portway, Frome. Hardy, G., 4, Park Crescent, Wigan. Harrison, James, Newby Bridge, Ulverston. Harrison, James, Sandarea House, Kendal. Harrison, Edward, Glenburn, Gillingate, Kendal. Harker, John, M.D., Hazel Grove, Carnforth. Harker, W. E., 40, Grainger St., West, Newcastle-on-Tyne. Hargreaves, W. B., Bank of Liverpool, Barrow-in-Furness. Hargreaves, J. E., Beezon Lodge, Kendal. Hartley, Mrs., Holme Garth, Morecambe. Hawkesbury, The Lord, Kirkham Abbey, York. Higginson, John, The Hollies, West Park Road, Blackburn. Hodgson, A. N. W., 3, Highfield, Kendal. Hogg, J. H., 71 Stricklandgate, Kendal. subscribers' names. 453 Hudson, Mrs., Larch How, Kendal. Hudson, C. Frith, Beetham, Milnthorpe. Hunt, Arthur, Longlands, Lancaster. Illingworth, J. R., 3, Beechwood, Kendal Green, Kendal. James, Miss, i Windsor Street, Barrow-in-Furness. Jefferys, J. H., Castle Green, Kendal. Jenkinson, Mrs., Busher Lodge, Kendal. Jennings, Thomas, Highgate, Kendal. Jones, Ernest, 4, Thorny Hills, Kendal. Kent, J. G., c/o Deighton & Co., High Street, Worcester. Kirkby, Bryham, 5, Walker's Mount, Batley. Langley, Mrs. H., Bolton-le-Sands, Carnforth. Littlewood, J. H., Lynn Garth, Kendal. Little, William, Chapel Ridding, Windermere. Long, William, Cleabarrow, Windermere. Lowther, Hon. W., M.P., Kensington Gore, London. Mackereth, Miss, Grosvenor Hotel, Kendal. Magrath, Rev. Dr., Queen's College, Oxford. Manning, Philip, Highgate, Kendal. Markham, F. W., Morland, Penrith. Martin, John, 64 Highgate, Kendal. Martindale, R. B., Lindisfarne, Kendal. McKay, George J., J. P., Kimberley House, Chatteris. Miller, R., Cavendish Park, Barrow-in-Furness. Milne, Alexander, 2, Bankfield, Kendal. Monkhouse, John, Hawthorn Villa, Kendal (2 copies). Monsarrat, Rev. H., Kendal. Moser, Miss, The Schools, Shrewsbury. Moser, Herbert, Underfell, Kendal. Moss, Rev. A. M., 12, Greenside, Kendal. Musgrove, W. H., Thorny Hills, Kendal. Museum Library, Kendal. Nanson, E. Lonsdale, Somerset House, Whitehaven. Nelson, Rev. G. H., Sandford Orcas, Sherborne. Noble, Miss, Beckfoot, Penrith. Noble, W. J., Recorder of Newark-on-Trent, 1, Paper Buildings Temple, London. Noble, Samuel Clarke, 94 Stricklandgate, Kendal. Noble, H. Percy, M.B., B.S. (Lond.), 34, Queen Anne Street, London, W. Parkin, John C, 128 Highgate, Kendal. 454 subscribers' names. Parker, W. R., M.D., Stricklandgate, Kendal. Paull, Clement, Hazelglen, Sanderstead, Surrey. Pease, Mrs. Gurney, Woodside, Darlington. Pease, Howard, Ascot Hall, Dudley. Pennington, R., Solicitor, Lincoln's Inn Field, London. Pollitt, Frank B., Kendal. Public Library, Storey Institute, Lancaster. Public Library, Kendal. Radcliffe, R. D., M.A., F.S.A., Old Swan, Liverpool. Reed, Marmaduke, 5, Ghyllside, Kendal. Reiss, George, 15, Market Place, Kendal. Rhodes, Robert, 19 Highgate, Kendal. Rhodes, John, Bank View, Kendal. Richmond, Robert, Thorny Hills, Kendal. Rishton, Edward, Roe Buck Inn, Highgate, Kendal. Roberts, Henry, 36 Stramongate, Kendal. Robinson, Miss A., Burnham House, Sunningdale. Robinson, John, M. Inst. C.E., 8 Vicarage Terrace, Kendal. Robinson, Mrs. W., Greenbank, Sedbergh. Robinson, Robert, C.E., J. P., Darlington. Rook, J. B., Kent Street, Kendal. Roper, W. O., F.S.A., Beechfield, Yealand Conyers. Routledge, Mrs., Abbey Street, Carlisle. Rushforth, George, Netherdene, Kendal. Senogles, Thomas, South Road, Kendal. Sewell, Frederic R., Brandlingill, Cockermouth. Shepherd, Arthur, Shaw End, Kendal (2 copies). Silverthorne, A., C.E., Westminster Chambers, Victoria Street, London, S.W. Simpson, Mrs. J. Holme, Romanway, Penrith. Simpson, James, Jun., 33, St. Chrysoston Street, Liverpool. Somervell, John, Broom Close, Kendal. Somervell, W. H., Brantfield, Kendal. Stalker, John, M.S. A., Sunny Cote, Kendal. Stevenson, Rev. Wm., New Road, Kendal. Strickland, Sir. Gerald, Sizergh Castle, Kendal. Swainson, J., Stonecross, Kendal. Swinglehurst, Addison, Helme Bank, Kendal. Swinglehurst, Henry, Valparaiso. Tebay, John, Camden Place, Kendal. Thompson, Robert W., 5, Woodside Terrace, Kendal. Thompson, William, Moresdale Hall, Kendal. Thompson, J., 51, Hamilton Square, Birkenhead. Thornton, W. B., 14 and 15, Coleman Street, London, E.C. subscribers' names. 455 Thurnam & Sons, Carlisle. Trench, Rev. Canon, Kendal (2 copies). Ullock, Miss, Quarry How, Windermere. Wakefield, Miss, Nutwood, Grange-over-Sands. Wakefield, Mrs. W., Birklands, Kendal. Walker, William, Oak Lea, Whitehaven. Watson, John, Thorny Hills, Kendal. Watson, J. Proctor, Castle Carrock, Carlisle. Whitwell, Miss R. M., Fairfield, Kendal. Whitaker, James, Kendal. Williams, Rev. G. H., The Grammar School, Kendal. Wilkinson, Charles, Villa Delavaud, Pau, France. Wilman, John D., King's Arms Hotel, Kendal. Wilson, Thos. R., Lindale, Grange-over-Sands. Wilson, Charles B., Castle Lodge, Kendal. Wilson, Edward W., The Cottage, Kendal. Wilson, Norman, 5, Bankfield, Kendal. Wilson, Titus, Aynam Lodge, Kendal (6 copies). Wilson, Frank, Ulva, Onslow Villas, Highgate, London. Wilson, John F., Southfield Villas, Middlesbrough. Wilson, T. Newby, The Landing, Lakeside, Ulverston. Wilson, Forster, Monument House, Kendal. Winder, J. C, Fulwood, Preston. Winder, J. Smallwood, Heathfield, Kendal. tm^-M^mMM