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THE GRAFTON HISTORICAL SERIES
Edited by HENRY R, STILES, A,M,, M,D.

The Grafton Historical Series
Edited by Henry R, Stiles, A,M,, M,D.

In Olde Connecticut
By Charles Burr Todd
12mo. Cloth, $1.25 net (postage 10c,)

Historic Hadley
By Alice Morehouse Walker
12mo, Cloth, illustrated, $1,00 net
(postage lOc)

In Press
Kmg Philip's War
By George W, Ellis and
John E, Morris

The Oldest House in Hadley, Erected in 1713

HISTORIC HADLEY
A STORY OF THE MAKING OF A FAMOUS
MASSACHUSETTS TOWN

BY
ALICE MOREHOUSE WALKER
Author of "Historic Homes ot Amherst," and
other sketches ol local history

THE GRAFTON PRESS
PUBLISHERS NEW YORK

Copyright, 1906,
By the GRAFTON PRESS.

TO

THE SOLDIERS AND STATESMEN, PROFESSIONAL MEN
AND LAYMEN, TILLERS OF THE SOIL AND PRODUCERS
OF WEALTH AND WELL-BEING SCATTERED THROUGH
OUT MANY STATES AND RESIDENT IN FOREIGN PARTS,
DESCENDANTS ALL OF THOSE FIRST SETTLERS WHO
FOUNDED HADLEY AMID THE MEADOWS OF THE WIND
ING CONNECTICUT MORE THAN TWO CENTURIES AGO,
THIS SIMPLE STORY OF GREAT DEEDS IS DEDICATED.

FOREWORD
LOVE of one's own town is one of the dominant
motives underlying good citizenship. The ori
gin, gi'owth, and development of a typical New England
town, covering two centuries and a half, is a theme on
which any thoughtful person may profitably dwell.
In these busy days, however, few people have the time
necessary to read a ponderous volume. For the many
rather than the few this little book has been written.
The lands of the early settlers of Hadley are pass
ing into the possession of the children of aliens, and
the town -meeting, church, school, and homes are for
these strangers to control. This book is for these
also, that they may be imbued with the spirit of those
mighty souls, which remains still potent enough to
make Americans out of Europeans, even as in 1776 it
made patriots and freemen out of the subjects of King
George. In the endeavor to make these pages interesting and
to impart to them the fascination of a story, truth has
not been sacrificed to style. Painstaking effort has
been made to search the town records, to scrutinize
every historical document, and to weigh carefully famil-

viii Foreword
iar traditions. The old dwellings, the highways and
byways, the mountains, the river and the meadows,
the ancient elms, heirlooms and antique relics have
been questioned and cross-questioned until they have
broken their silence of centuries and told the story of
by-gone days.
The author acknowledges with pleasure the help de
rived from the study of the voluminous manuscripts of
Sylvester Judd, now carefully guarded in the Forbes
Library in Northampton, and his " History of Hadley,"
completed after his death by the late Lucius M. Bolt-
wood. Credit should also be given for the aid afforded
by " The History of the Hopkins Fund," prepared and
published under the direction of the Trustees of Hop
kins Academy. "The History of Western Massachu
setts," by J. G. Holland, has elucidated some interesting
points of the narrative.
It is hoped that this volume will be read and re-read,
and that copies will be sent with the best wishes of the
senders to distant friends, that all the world may be
familiar with Historic Hadley, sitting by the riverside,
the mother of towns, of churches, and of schools,
A. M. W.
Amherst, Mass,, July 4, 1906.

CONTENTS CHAPTER I
The Founders and Their Fortunes .... 1
The Indian Owners of the Quonektacut VaUey. The " Engag
ers." The Emigration. Establishing the New Town. The
First Winter in " Norwottuck Beyond Springiield." Laying Out
the Broad Street. The Meadows and the Plains. Varied Duties
of the New Settlers. Origin of the Name Hadley. Parson John
Russell and His Work. Joseph Kellogg and His Ferry. Build
ing the Meeting-house. Home Lots on the Broad Street. Exten
sion of the Town Limits. Death of Governor Webster. Doctor
John Westcarr. Hadley Dames Presented in Court for Wearing
SUk. Secession of the " West Siders." Preparation for Trials to
Come.
CHAPTER II
A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley .... 22
General Edward Whalley and General William GofFe, Fugitives
from the High Court of Justice. Parson RusseU's Hospitality.
News of King Philip's Uprising, The Hampshire Troop of Horse
men, The Ambuscade near the Indian Fort, The Attack, The
Angel Sent from God, Days of Terror, Death of Captain
Lothrop near Muddy Brook, Burning of Springfield. Hopeless
Condition of Hadley, The Winter of 1675 and 1676. Preparing
for a Siege. Building the Palisades. Death of Deacon Goodman
and Captivity of Thomas Reed. The " Falls Fight," Friendly
Indian Allies, The Parade of the Army from Connecticut on Had
ley Street. Feeding the Swarm of Soldiers, The Attack on
Hadley, June 12, 1676. The "Great Gun," Superstitious Ter
rors, Mary Webster, the Witch, Death of Parson Russell,

X Contents
CHAPTER III
The Church in Old Hadley  40
I, — The Pastorate of Rev. Isaac Chauncey
Securing the New Pastor, Murder of Richard Church by In
dians, Discovery and Punishment of the Murderers, Controversy
Regarding the Seating of the Meeting-house, Effect of the Peace
of Utrecht, Removing the Fortifications. The Arts of Peace.
Building the Second Meeting-house, Later Repairs and Renova
tions, Church Manners and Customs, Slavery in Hadley,
Joshua Boston and Arthur Prutt, Two Hadley Slaves, The Sad
Story of Csesar Prutt, Selling a Slave at Amherst Town-meeting,
The Extraordinary Adventure of Zebulon Prutt. Establishment
of the Southern Precinct Beyond the Mountain. Setting Off the
East Precinct. The Interrupted Career of Israel Chauncey.
Activity of Parson Chauncey and His Final Retirement.
II. — The Pastorates of Rev. Chester Williams and
Dr. Samuel Hopkins
rrosperity in Hadley. Parson Williams' Wardrobe. Jonathan
Edwards and His Controversy. Appointment of the Hadley Min
ister as Scribe of the Council of Churches. Sickness and Death of
Parson Williams. Ordination of Rev, Samuel Hopkins, His
Marriage to Mrs, Chester Williams. The "Awful Earthquake"
in Hadley. Home of Captain Moses Porter. His Call to Duty, and
Death in the Battle of Lake George, Burial of Madam Porter.
Personality of Rev, Samuel Hopkins, Burning of the Pastor's
House, A Presage of Revolution, The CaU to Arms, News of the
Battle of Lexington. The Porter Family in Old Hadley. The
Porter Homestead, the Oldest House in Hadley, Colonel Elisha
Porter's Call to Quebec, Return of Part of Burgoyne's Army to
Hadley, Hospitality of Colonel Porter. The Sword of Burgoyne.
Hadley Soldiers in the Revolution. Shays' Rebellion. General
Lincoln with His Army in Hadley, Preaching to the Soldiers
from Behind a Pulpit of Snow, Planning the Third Meeting
house, Dedication of the New Building.
III. — Rev. John Woodbridge and His Successors
Death and Burial of Dr, Hopkins, Rev, John Woodbridge.
Visit of President Timothy Dwight, Moving the Meeting-house.
Division in the Church, The Withdrawal from the First Church
and the Establishment of the Russell Church, Successors of Rev.
Mr. Woodbridge. The Old Church To-day,

Contents xi
CHAPTER IV
Hopkins Grammar School and Academy . . 74)
Early Ideas Concerning Schools, Parson Russell's Desire,
Governor Edward Hopkins and His WUl, Trustees of the WiU,
The Hadley Trustees of the Grammar School, The Hadley School
Meadows, and the Committee in Charge, First Teaching in Had
ley, Caleb Watson and His School, School Regulations, Early
Hadley Teaching, The First Schoolhouse, Investment of the
Funds. The School Mill, Departure of Ruling Elder Goodwin,
and His Suit Against the Trustees, Burning of the MiU During the
War. Efforts to Make the School an English School. Opposition
of Parson Russell to the Scheme. Town-meeting at Break of
Day. Re-establishment of the Grammar School. The New School
Committee. Josiah Pierce, the Schoolmaster Who Raised Pota
toes. The Brick Academy Building. Later Preceptors of Hop
kins Academy, Decline of the Academy, The Free High School,
Burning of the Academy Building, Sale of School Lands and of
the Mill Site. Graduates and Former Students of Hopkins Gram
mar School and Academy,

CHAPTER V
The Wealth of the River and the Fertile
Meadows  : 98
The Connecticut River in Olden Time. The Indians and the
River. Pines Along the Bank, Influence of the River on the
Early Settlements. Floods, Shad and Salmon, The Fishery at
the "Greate Falls," Lumbering in the Valley Towns. Trouble
on Account of Logs. Rafting. The Lumber Road and the Saw
MiUs. Traffic on the River, The " Great Canoes," The FaUs
Boats, The Proprietors of the Locks and Canals, Digging a
Canal Around the Great FaUs, Planting Elms in Hadley Street.
A New Kind of " Corn Seed," The Broom Corn Industry, The
First Steamboats on the River, The Coming of the Barnet. A
Voyage on the Vermont. The Steamboat WiUiam HaU Plying
Between Hadley and Hartford. A Picnic on the Franklin, The
Railroad to Springfield from Northampton, Railroad Connection
with Boston, Connecting Electric Trolley Lines. Passing of the
Romance of the River,

xii Contents
CHAPTER VI
The Burial Place of Hadley's Honored Dead 117
First Burial on the Meadow Plain. Burial of Governor John
Webster. The Old Hadley Cemetery. Inscription on the Web
ster Monument. Death and Burial of Each of the Founders. Rude
Gravestones on the Older Graves. Burial of Hadley Slaves,
Early Funeral Fashions, The Earliest Monuments Marking the
Graves of Parson Russell and His Wife, Inscriptions on These
Stones, Stones Marking the Graves of the Other Ministers,
Grave of Bishop Frederic D. Huntington.

ILLUSTRATIONS
The Oldest House in Hadley. (Built in 1713,) (See p. 63,)

PACING PAGE
Old Hadley Street To-day (looking south from Russell Street) 14
The Meadow Plain and the Holyoke Mountains (looking
southeast from the river)  22
The Present Hadley Meeting-house. (Built in 1808 and
moved to its present site in 1840) .  40
Hopkins Academy Building. (Built in 1894) . . , , 74
The Connecticut River and the Meadow Plain (looking north
from the railroad)  98
Old Hadley Burying Ground  117

HISTORIC HADLEY

HISTORIC HADLEY
CHAPTER I
THE FOUNDERS AND THEIE FORTUNES
THE Indian owners of the valley bordering on
Quonektacut, the "Great River," were very
desirous that the English should settle in their midst.
These lordly hunters scorned the thought of labor,
and their toiling squaws were able to cultivate but a
small portion of the fertile openings between the
groups of pines and cedars. The white man, after
the bargain was completed, would be willing that his
red brothers should hunt in his forests and fish in
his streams, and for his meadow land would pay long
strings of wampum, coats and breeches, guns and
ammunition, brass kettles, knives and needles, with
perhaps a taste of the fiery drink known as "kill
devil" to seal the bargain.
The Puritan members of the churches in Hartford
and Wethersfield differed among themselves concerning
baptism. Therefore the minority in each congregation
withdrew from its communion, and, encouraged by
Parson Russell of Wethersfield, commissioned Major
John Pynchon, the famous trader, to buy for them a

2 Historic Hadley
portion of the Massachusetts wilderness where in
peace they might practise and beheve. The old chief
tains Chickwallopp, Umpanchala, and Quonquont
were ready to sell their ancient heritage, and the
Connecticut "withdrawers" were anxious to buy.
The bargain, therefore, was soon concluded; each red
man made his mark upon the deed; and the land from
Mount Holyoke on the south, to Mount Toby and
Mohawk Brook on the north, and extending eastward
nine miles into the woods, passed into the possession
of Major Pynchon, and was by him transferred to
the "withdrawers," who termed themselves "Strict
Congregationalists," and adhered to the good old
doctrines and opposed all new-fangled notions in
preaching and practise. The "withdrawers," by this
historic act transformed into the "engagers," at a
meeting held April 18, 1659, in Hartford, in the home
of Goodman Ward, signed an agreement to "remove
themselves and their families out of the jurisdiction of
Conecticut into the jurisdiction of the Mattachusets."
They also appointed William Westwood, Richard
Goodman, William Lewis, John White, and Nathaniel
Dickinson "to go up to the aforesaid plantation and
lay out 59 homelots." Most of the signers of this
agreement had never seen the place which was to
become their home.
Many of these " engagers " were men of wealth and
learning, holding responsible positions which they were

The Founders and Their Fortunes 3
wilHng to relinquish for conscience's sake. Among the
leaders was the Honorable John Webster, a former
governor of Connecticut and one of the Commissioners
of the United Colonies, who had been deeply interested
in the controversy of the churches. He died in Hadley
when the town was still in its infancy. His daughter
Elizabeth married Wilham Markham, one of the
"engagers," and Anne, another daughter, became the
wife of John Marsh, whose name also is on the Hst.
John Russell, St., a glazier by trade, cast his fortunes
with his son. Parson John Russell, the leader of the
Wethersfield contingent, and signed the agreement.
Lieutenant Samuel Smith, a "man of note," also was
an "engager," and was foremost among the promoters
of the embryo settlement. These all appear among
the Hadley pioneers, the real founders of the town.
Others, less constant in their purpose, allowed their
signatures to stand, but carried their projects no farther.
The journey from Hartford northward into the
wilderness was beset with difficulty. The "Greate
Falls" prevented transportation by water and the
Holyoke mountains stood squarely across the most
direct pathway by land. Undaunted, however, a few
of the "engagers" packed their household goods in
ox carts, made nests for their children among the
feather beds, mounted each his wife behind him on a
pillion, and thus plodded along the rugged cart-way to
Windsor, and thence through Waranoke, now West-

4 Historic Hadley
field, toward Northampton, the new town which was
to be their western neighbor. Crossing the river in
canoes, they pitched their tents until cabins could be
built for temporary homes.
Once arrived at their destination, these energetic
and methodical pioneers determined that from the
first everything should be done decently and in order.
November 9, 1659, they called a town-meeting, and
appointed a committee of seven "to order all pubKc
occasions that concern the good of the plantation
for the Yeare Insuing." This committee made a
"rate" to pay the minister's salary, and sent messen
gers to Hartford and Wethersfield that those "en
gagers" who had not removed might not fail to
contribute their share. The town was laid out on
both sides of the river, Richard Fellows being the first
settler on the west side. He was followed by Thomas
Meekins, Wilham Allis, Nathaniel Dickinson, Jr.,
Thomas Graves and his sons Isaac and John, Samuel
Bel ding, Stephen Taylor, John White, Jr., Daniel
Warner, Richard Billing, Zachariah Field, Daniel
White, John Cowls, Samuel Dickinson, and John Cole
man. Before 1661 these had built their homes on
what is now Hatfield Street, then known as the
"West Side." Among the settlers who estabhshed
themselves on the east side of the river were the
townsmen: William Westwood, Nathaniel Dickinson,
Samuel Smith, Thomas Standley, John White, Rich-

The Founders and Their Fortunes 5
ard Goodman, and Nathaniel Ward. Exactly what
other famihes may have been there we cannot tell.
Lest there should be jealousy it was voted that "All
that sett down on the land on the west side of the
river shall be one with those on the east side, both
in ecclesiastical and civil matters," and for several
years both "siders" made strenuous efforts to make
good this action of the town.
And so came into being the nameless settlement in
the wilderness of "Norwottuck beyond Springfield."
We can readily imagine the difficulties which must
have beset the colonists during that first winter of
1659 and 1660. Overlooking the southern meadow
was an Indian fort from which the few small houses
in Northampton could be seen. Toward the north the
chieftain Quonquont and his tribe lived in their wig
wams beside the river. The idle, thriftless Indians were
friendly neighbors, upon whom the settlers must have
depended for favors without end. The native hunter
drove many a sharp bargain with his white brother
for corn and maple sugar, taking pay in ammuni
tion, knives, and needles which could not well be
spared from the white man's scanty store, while the
squaw for a consideration furnished moccasons and
deerskins ready dressed, from which warm clothing
was made. Thus protected from the cold the heads
of families and elder sons were obliged to hunt
on the mountains and fish through the ice to

6 Historic Hadley
secure sufficient daily food. With energetic strokes
the choppers felled great pine trees and cleared the
underbrush in preparation for the other "engagers"
who might come in the spring. The woods were full
of howling wild beasts, and wolves nightly prowled
around the clearing. Where now we see the wide and
level street, there then were ridges and hollows and
ponds. That winter must have been a season of
arduous toil, and with the spring came the great floods
which caused the hearts of the newcomers to fail
within them.
With perseverance, however, the pioneers laid out
their broad highway, twenty rods in width, bordered
with home lots of eight acres each. This street ex
tended across the peninsula, with the " Greate River "
for its boundary at either end. Samuel Smith and
Peter Tilton measured and staked the lots for three
pence per acre, and caused the name of each pro
prietor to be placed upon his stake. He was then
required to enclose his own lot by a fence made of
five rails fastened to posts four feet high. Another
way of fencing was to dig a ditch three feet wide and
two feet deep and throw the earth upon one bank, on
which a fence of three rails was set. Every man was
obliged to labor on the fences at the ends of the street
and at the west end of the "laines" running into the
woods, at each of which there was to be maintained
a "Goode Gaite."

The Founders and Their Fortunes 7
The vast eastern forests were known as the " Woods "
or the "Pine Plain," and the western and southern
grazing lands constituted the "Greate Meadowe,"
within whose boundary lines was the " Forlorn Hope."
The little " Aqua Vitae " meadow bordered the river near
the home of the ferryman, Joseph Kellogg. In 1663
Hockanum meadow was divided and ordered to be
fenced by its owners. Each person was obUged to
keep his cattle on his own part of the meadow, on
penalty of twelvepence .fine for every "hoge" or
" shoate," and one shilUng eightpence for a " score of
sheepe" that should go astray. The sharp eyes of
the hayward, Goodman Richard Montague, were
always on the lookout for offenders, as he received a
percentage on all fines collected. Viewers of fences
were men of importance in those days, as upon their
faithfulness depended the welfare of the little hamlet.
Almost before the fences were built William Westwood
and Thomas Standley were chosen to perform that
duty. Each person had "plow land" and "moeing
land" in the "Greate Meadowe," and some living in
the south part of the town were given shares in Fort
Meadow, its swamp being accounted "two for one."
To see that these cultivated fields, upon the products
of which the very existence of the settlement depended,
were not disturbed by the droves of young horses and
cattle which roamed on the mountains and through the
woods required constant care of many miles of fencing.

8 Historic Hadley
In addition to service for the public welfare, each
farmer was compelled at first to be his own carpenter
and blacksmith, and to grind his own corn, and make
his own bolts, and "pailes" and clapboards and
shingles. He was ordered by the town fathers, after
felhng any "rift timber" (oak) or any "pine tree," to
make it at once into needed articles, on penalty of
having it confiscated by any one who chose to take it.
Those of the settlers who, like Nathaniel Dickinson,
had several lusty sons to share their toil must have
been envied by others who were wholly dependent for
assistance upon neighbors and the few who were
willing to work for wages.
The citizens of the "Newtown," as the settlement
was sometimes called, had now secured their hearts'
desire for freedom from controversy with regard to the
"half way covenant," but they had no meeting-house,
and did not possess even a legal name. Those among
the Hartford men who came from Essex, in England,
were glad to christen their new home Hadleigh, or
Hadley, dear to their youthful hearts in days gone by,
and in 1661 this action was confirmed by the General
Court in Boston.
John Russell, Jr., the minister of Wethersfield, who
with a portion of his flock had already cast his lot
with the " engagers," was willing to accept the formal
call to build up a church among a united people.
His father had secured an allotment of land on Hadley

The Founders and Their Fortunes 9
street, and his brother PhiUp was one of the settlers
on the "West Side." The parson, John Jr., was
graduated from Harvard College in 1645 when nine
teen years of age, preached in Wethersfield about ten
years, and probably came to Hadley in 1660. In that
year the "Said Inhabitants and Planters" voted to
pay him eighty pounds annual salary, and gave him
a home lot of eight acres next to the middle highway
leading to the woods. The minister had to build his
own house and clear his own land. No mention is
made of any provision by the people of firewood
for his use. So in order that his wife and three
little children should not freeze, the ininister was
obliged to chop down trees and draw them to his
own dooryard. At first he had no servants, and the
three negro slaves included in the inventory of his
estate were probably bought years later when family
cares had increased. Parson Russell's salary was paid
in winter wheat at three shillings threepence, peas at
two shillings sixpence, and Indian corn at two shillings
per bushel, all of which commodities had to be ex
changed for other goods as there was little money.
But though obUged to perform much manual labor,
the minister was not required to offer prayer at funerals,
or to officiate at weddings, the latter duty being per
formed by the justice of the peace. No doubt the
magistrate united the minister himself first to Mary
Talcott, then to Rebecca, daughter of Thomas

10 Historic Hadley
Newbury of Windsor, and again to Phebe, widow of
Rev. John Whiting of Hartford. Rebecca, the wife
who came with Parson Russell to Hadley, is buried
by his side in the old Hadley cemetery.
Jonathan Russell, the son of the minister, was for
twenty-eight years pastor of the church in Barnstable,
and Samuel, another son, was the minister in Bran-
ford, Connecticut. These two, and John, the first
born son, who died when young, were inmates of that
new Hadley home. William Westwood, the first local
magistrate authorized to unite couples in marriage,
pronounced his own daughter Sarah and Aaron Cooke
husband and wife, after which they doubtless partook
of "sack posset" by way of a mild celebration after
the good old fashion. This was the first wedding in
Hadley. Parson Russell did not perform a marriage
ceremony in Hadley until just before his death.
The newly appointed minister preached his first ser
mon in a private house, for, in spite of their best efforts,
the settlers could not build a meeting-house that first
year. December 12, 1661, we find the statement in the
records : " The Town have ordered that they will Build
and erect A meeting house to be a place for pubUck
worship, whose figure is 45 foote in length, and 24
foote in Bredth, with Leantors on both sides, which
shall Inlarge the whole to 36 in Bredth." "This shall
be scittuated and sett up on the common street."
But other matters were so pressing that it seems to

The Founders and Their Fortunes 11
have taken them long to build the Lord's house, and
probably during this time meetings were held in the
home of some leading church member.
The people, however, were not idle, for public
affairs demanded much attention. Joseph Kellogg,
the first ferryman, had built his house on the ferry lot
at the south end of the street, where he received as
fares eightpence in wheat, or sixpence in money, for
man and horse. On lecture days, when six or more
persons went together, the rate was decreased, and
after dark the fares were doubled. The ferryman was
also allowed to keep an "ordinary" and entertain
strangers. Lieutenant Joseph, who afterward became
the father of twenty children, had quite a family even
now, and vrith his ferry passengers and guests he for
one could not have had much time to assist in building
the meeting-house. The town had to aid Parson
Russell in the work of putting an addition on his
dwelling, and then at his request engaged William
Goodwin as an elder to assist him in his work. Part
of the parish being across the river there must have
been times when two men were absolutely required to
look after manners and morals according to the rigid
standard of that day. Many town-meetings were held,
for absence from which penalties were imposed on
busy men. The farmers held chopping bees and felled
great trees In such a manner as to form bridges over the
smaller brooks, and built a more elaborate bridge

12 Historic Hadley
for horses, oxen, and carts across Fort River on the
Springfield road, and contributed toward the expense
of laying out a " commodious way to the Bay." Wearied
with the labor of grinding their grain in their own
homes they offered Goodman Meekins a fifty-pound
allotment on the west side of the "Greate River"
upon which to build a mill, the citizens agreeing to
patronize him so long as he made good meal. Thomas
Wells and John Hubbard were appointed to carry the
corn In a boat across the river twice a week, and to
bring back the meal, for which they should receive
threepence a bushel, each farmer to have his corn
ready and his bags marked with his name. Finally a
sawmill was erected on Mill River, thus making it less
difficult to get out lumber.
Again the citizens brought up the matter of building
the meeting-house, and on August 27, 1663, in town-
meeting assembled, passed the following resolution:
"The town have voted (nemlne contradlcente) that
they will with all convenient speede, endeavour and
set aboute the building and erecting a meeting house
for publick worshipp." The following committee was
put in charge : William Clarke, Samuel Smith, William
Westwood, John Barnard, Thomas Meekins, Nathaniel
Dickinson, and Isaac Graves. The work at last was
started and this time the attempt was a success, although
the building was not completed for seven years. The
construction of the "Leantors" was abandoned and

The Founders and Their Fortunes 13
there is every reason to beUeve that the house as first
used conformed in other respects to the original plan.
According to the vote the building was " scittuated and
sett up In the common street," toward the north, in
order to accommodate residents on the "West Side."
The solid framework was put together and, after
delay, was raised, but the building was not then com
pleted, possibly because the western settlers had already
begun to discuss plans for having a meeting-house
and minister of their own.
Great was the alarm at the thought of the desertion
of the "West Siders," for the whole parish found It
difficult to raise enough grain with which to pay
Parson Russell's salary. Should the western part of
the parish secede, taking with it the com mill, the
settlement would be crippled indeed! There seems
to have been some discussion in regard to moving the
half-finished meeting-house, for the vote stands to the
effect: "Untill the Lord makes it appear that one
part of us have a call to make a society of themselves,"
they would remain united and let the meeting-house
stand "In or about the place where it was wrought
and framed." Thus referring the matter to the Lord,
they proceeded with the work, and soon the little
building, similar in fashion to the one in Hartford,
was firmly set upon its hill, that It might not be hid.
Above Its solid frame rose a sloping roof, alike on all
four sides, with probably a turret In the middle for

14 Historic Hadley
the bell which they hoped soon to secure. The com
mittee then collected the roughly hewn "Boards and
Rales" from the individuals by whom they had been
prepared, and made long benches without backs,
and a rude pulpit, after which they rested to await
developments. A stranger coming into Hadley from the south, In
1663, would cross the river on Joseph Kellogg's ferry
boat, and would possibly take dinner with him and
his numerous family in the ferry-house at the Aqua
Vitse meadow. The settlement at this time was laid
out on both sides of the broad street which extended
north and south across the eastern part of the peninsula
made by the river in Its detour westward toward
Northampton. The land enclosed between the street
and the river on the west was the fertile Meadow
Plain. To the east stretched the vast Pine Plain or
Woods. Leading away westward from the street were
three highways, known respectively as the north,
middle, and south highway to the meadow, and three
similar highways led from the main street eastward
toward the woods. At the extreme southeastern comer
of the settlement, on the southern side of the south
highway to the woods, Uved John Russell, Sr., father
of the minister. Nathaniel Dickinson, and his son
Thomas Dickinson, lived in the same section of the
town on the eastern side of the street and north of the
south highway. Next in the line on the east side of

Old Hadley Street

The Founders and Their Fortunes 15
the street was the house of William Westwood, In the
midst of his eight-acre lot, where he lived with his
wife, Bridget, and daughter, Sarah, who married
Aaron Cooke. Then came the home of Richard
Goodman and his wife, Mary Terry of Windsor, and
Infant son, John, Others who Uved on the east side
of the street In the southeastern section were : William
Lewis, who In 1662 represented Hadley in the Gen
eral Court; the Hon. Peter Tilton, recorder, repre
sentative, associate judge of the county court, and
"one of the most worshipful assistants of the col
ony"; John White, also a representative; Thomas
Stanley, and Nathaniel Stanley, his son; Andrew
Bacon; and John Barnard, afterward slain by the
Indians. In the northeastern section of the settlement, on the
east side of the street, just north of the middle highway
to the woods, lived Parson Russell, and Immediately
north was the town lot. North of the town lot on the
east side of the street were the homes of John Hub
bard, Thomas Wells, Samuel Porter of Windsor,
whose son Samuel became judge and sheriff of the
county and the father of thirteen children; John
Dickinson, the son of Nathaniel; Richard Mon
tague, the grave-digger; Lieut. Samuel Smith, a
"man of note"; and his son Philip Smith, who was
afterwards slain by the machinations of the witch
Mary Webster; Thomas Coleman; and William Par-

16 Historic Hadley
trigg. Next on the north lived A. Nichols, John
Ingram, John Taylor, and Wm. Pixley.
In the northwestern quarter of the settlement, north
of the northern highway to the meadow, lived Samuel
Gardner. South of the northern highway and on the
western side of the street lived Chileab Smith, son
of Lieutenant Samuel Smith ; Joseph Baldwin ; Robert
Bolt wood; Francis Barnard, father of John Barnard;
John Hawkes; Richard Church; and Edward Church,
his son. South of the middle highway and on the
western side of the street were the homes of Henry
Clark, "a wealthy and distinguished man"; Stephen
Terry; Andrew Warner; John Marsh; Timothy Nash,
the blacksmith; Governor John Webster; William
Goodwin; John Crow; Samuel Moody; Nathaniel
Ward; and William Markham, who married EUza
beth, the daughter of Governor Webster.
The unfinished meeting-house stood in the middle
of the broad street about opposite the house of John
Dickinson, somewhat to the north of the middle high
way. All about It up and down the broad street
were the homes of these founders of Hadley, heroic
men. Imbued with the spirit of the Pilgrims and
the courage of their convictions. The Innumerable
company of their descendants, scattered abroad
throughout the earth, are proud to trace their an
cestry back to the pioneer settlers of this famous
New England town. The visitor would have seen

The Founders and Their Fortunes 17
small, unpretentious dwelUngs, a rough unpainted
meeting-house, and signs of a rude colonial Ufe. But
he would have found the dwellers in these homes to
be men of education and refinement, and women of
energy and determination, bringing up their children
in the fear of God and with a wholesome respect for
man. Out of such material was this nation builded.
Exactly when the congregation left the private house
and began to worship in the church building we cannot
tell, but probably as soon as the seats were finished.
Perched in the pulpit high against the wall, good
Parson Russell looked down upon his flock, and dis
cussed and determined doctrinal points to the satis
faction of all concerned. The town voted to buy a
bell "brought up by Lieut. Smith and some other,"
and to pay for it in wheat at three shillings per
bushel, which amounted to about twenty-five dollars.
Finding its feeble tones were scarcely heard across
the river, and fearing lest the "West Siders" would
recognize in this grievance the looked for sign of a
call from the Lord, a parishioner left in his will a
sum of money with which to buy a larger bell, that
might be heard generally by the inhabitants. At last
a committee was chosen " to procure such a bell as is
at Northampton," which proves that the Hadley
people were progressive and not to be outdone by
the town on the other side of the river.
Pending this action the lusty bell-ringer, standing

18 Historic Hadley
in the audience room, pulled the rope which came
down through the ceiling, and strained the voice of
the little bell to Its utmost, as he summoned the faith
ful to the Sunday service. Across the river In boats,
and from north and south on foot, on horseback,
and In rude carts, they came, fathers and brothers
well armed, though In time of peace, and mothers
with their younger children, through summer's heat
and winter's cold, to sit on the hard benches through
the long and tedious service. It seems a significant
fact that two years after the galleries were put Into
the meeting-house the town passed the vote which has
been so many times quoted: "that there shaU be some
sticks set up in the meeting-house, In several places,
with some fit persons placed by them, to use them as
occasion shall require to keep the youth from disorder."
The Indians, too, were scattered throughout the
congregation, and greeted the settlers with the friendly
salutation " Netop " and were seeming converts to
the Christian faith; and yet the shrewd old-time
fathers felt It wise not to trust them too far even on
Sunday, and appointed special guards for the Lord's
day, and for lectures and public meetings for God's
worship. The citizens were organized Into a military
company for which the townsmen procured a drum,
and thus in time of peace prepared for war.
Attempts were made to clear the highways bf pine
trees, logs, woodpiles, and "other encumbrances'*

The Founders and Their Fortunes 19
which had collected In front of the houses. The town
voted "their desire of John Prentice of New London
to come and sitt amongst them as a smith," and offered
him the "lott sequestered for a smith." When he
declined they opened communication with Deacon
Hinsdale at the Bay "for a Smith then Uving In rox-
berrie." Before the meeting-house was finished It was con
sidered to be the center of the town, for, taking the
building as an objective point, in 1663 the General
Court decided that Hadley should extend five miles
up the river, five miles down the river, and four miles
from the most eastern point of the river. Those who
were dependent upon their cattle and grain to pay
their Uving expenses urged that they needed more
extended pastures, as much of their feeding-ground was
barren pine plain. After a time they were given land
extending two more miles to the east, and the meadows
to the south.
In 1670 the settlers on the west side of the river,
assured at last that the Lord had called them to be
come a separate town, left their former brethren, and
built for themselves a meeting-house on their own
broad street. This was a blow to Hadley by which
Parson Russell lost some of his best supporters. Val
uable members of the church had also been removed
by death. The remains of Governor John Webster
were carried ou the shoulders of his fellow townsmen

20 Historic Hadley
and laid away to rest in the burying-ground, and his
loss was deeply felt. His body was committed to the
grave by Sexton Richard Montague, who received for
the service fifteen shIlUngs.
The Indians still roamed from place to place, begging
the planters to plow their fields, and to give them
medicines and Uquor for fancied ailments. Dr. John
Westcarr not only cured their diseases, but sold them
"strong water" contrary to law, for which he was
fined and admonished. His widow, Hannah, spent
his "good estate" for gay silk gowns, for which she
was presented In the Northampton court. Hadley
people, however, to a good degree, lived a simple life.
They ate their dinner when the sun reached the noon
mark on the southern window casing, lighted their
houses with candle-wood, picked huckleberries in the
streets and home lots, feasted on honey stored by wild
bees in hollow trees, and washed their garments with
soft soap brought from Connecticut by John Pynchon.
The hunters shot deer for food and clothing, and
waged a relentless warfare upon the wolves which
destroyed their flocks. Hogs, with rings in their
snouts, and wearing yokes two and one half times the
thickness of their necks, ran through Hadley streets.
Horses and young cattle grazed on the Pine Plain
and along the mountain side.
Thus until 1675 the fifty families which composed
the settlement were enabled to maintain themselves.

The Founders and Their Fortunes 21
and live in peace and quietness, with none to disagree
with them in matters of religious doctrine. They
governed their unruly members with a steady hand.
The law of the General Court that persons whose
estate did not exceed £200 should not wear gold and
silver lace, or garments made of silk, was rigorously
enforced. The wives of John Westcarr, Joseph Bar
nard, Thomas Wells, Jr,, Edward Granniss, and
Joseph Kellogg, and Maiden Mary Broughton, were
arraigned before Northampton judges as persons of
small estate "wearing silk contrary to law," and were
fined, admonished, or acquitted according to the gravity
of each offense. Later certain young men were con
victed of wearing long hair, and were reprimanded by
the court. A fine of three shillings fourpence was
imposed "for any person that shall run and race and
inordinately Gallopp any Horse in any of Hadley
streets," Parson RusseU, In the Uttle square meeting-house
on the hill, was the inspiration of the reUgious Ufe
of Hadley, as the building itself was the center
of the community. The voice of conscience. Inter
preted by the voice of the preacher, was more powerful
than the weak notes of the beU, and by a Ufe of obe
dience to its dictates the early settlers hardened them
selves against the time of trial which awaited them.

CHAPTER II
A EEIGN OF TEEKOK IN OLD HADLEY
The founders of Hadley were brave and vaUant
pioneers, ready to fight for their king across the sea,
or to defend with their lives their homes and hearth
stones. Their pastor, John Russell, was a farmer
among farmers, who shared the joys and sorrows of
his people. More than this, unknown to his parish
ioners, the unpretentious country parson was a patriot
and a hero. Many years before, when the little plan
tation was only five years old, there had come, steaUng
from their New Haven hiding-place, two strangers
whom the good minister had received into his home.
PoUtical opinions were divided then as now, but
Parson Russell hesitated not to protect those whom
he beUeved were persecuted for conscience's sake from
their enemies in the new country, who would have
delivered them to Ignominious death.
These fugitives, members of the High Court of
Justice, by which King Charles I of England was
dethroned and executed, had, with the restoration
of the king's son, Charles II, fled to Boston, where
under assumeid names they would fain have made

The Meadow Plain and the Holyoke Mountains
LookinjT Southe.-ist from the River

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 23
their homes. But royal vengeance tarried not. Good
friends informed the refugees that officers were on
their track, and the hunted men, led by an Indian
guide, threaded the forests on foot through Springfield
to New Haven, where for a time they were allowed to
rest in peace. News that special commissioners for
their arrest had arrived in Boston was accompanied
by the warning that they were no longer safe on Con
necticut soil. Then came the journey by night to
Hadley, and the uqseen entrance into a dwelling that
was Indeed to prove a haven of refuge.
Thus beside the simple life of the country minister's
home, the unpretentious roof-tree covered a tragedy,
for within a secret chamber dwelt the regicide judges.
General Edward Whalley and General William Goffe,
each with a price upon his head. The children and
servants of the household went in and out, and knew
not of the strangers' presence. Peter Tilton and other
good friends brought letters and supplies sent to Boston
from the wife and daughter in Old England, and
carried messages in return. In this rural home the
cousin of Oliver Cromwell, and his son-in-law, chief
officers in the Lord Protector's army, dragged out the
remnant of their lives In constant apprehension of
discovery. Creeping forth at night, they may have
been seen by a belated traveler, but such an one,
imagining that spirits walked abroad, disturbed them
not. By day, if alarms arose, they descended through

24 Historic Hadley
the trap-door in their closet to the cellar, and there
remained concealed. Deprived of all companionship,
with little news from the outside world, their linger
ing hopes grew fainter, until, it is believed, about
1676, the old man Whalley died, and was buried in
an unknown grave. With the safety and maintenance
of these fugitives, added to the many other cares upon
his mind and heart, the friendly host and jailer settled
the petty details of every-day life, adjusted disputes
with regard to seating the meeting-house, and looked
sharply after the interests of the grammar school, on
which depended the educational welfare of the youth.
Suddenly, one morning, when not a cloud was in
the sky, the sound of heavy ordnance, as of great guns
firing charge after charge, shook the earth, and could
not be explained. Frightened by this strange phenom
enon, the despised red "salvages," considered to be as
harmless as the lazy dogs about the doors, disappeared
from their accustomed haunts. The record states:
"They plucked up their wigwams and took away the
goods they had laid up in our houses,"
News of the Indian uprising led by King Philip had
reached Hadley, and the strange actions of the natives
about the settlement had been noted, but rather with
relief than alarm. Wise men were anxious, but the
majority felt no fear. Was not the whole county
protected by the "Hampshire Troop of Horsemen,"
under the leadership of Captain John Pynchon of

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 25
Springfield? When this famous company paraded
up and down Hadley street. In uniforms decked with
gold and silver lace and gay silk sashes, with gaudy
trappings for the horses, the Indians looked on in
speechless admiration, eager to see the red flag flutter
and to hear the martial strains. And, although less
than twenty Hadley men were enrolled in this troop,
yet did not the Indians know that every farmer had
a musket, and a pike fourteen feet long, and that
some had also the lighter snaphance, with barrel
three and one half feet in length ? The Hadley militia
also was ready for defense, with Samuel Smith as Its
lieutenant, and Aaron Cooke, Jr., for its ensign.
Civilized men, thus armed and well drilled in the fifty-
eight postures of the gun, and the various maneuvers
of the pike, ought surely to be able to cope with naked,
ignorant savages. Thus reasoned many, when almost
without warning a breathless runner brought tidings
of the massacre at Brookfield, and terror reigned in
every heart.
The Indians in the fort across the river, upon hearing
the news, gave " eleven triumphing shouts," waking the
echoes far and near. Too late the settlers realized the
folly of having so carelessly suppUed the natives with
guns, and attempted peaceably to disarm them, but
in vain. Their headquarters was the Indian fort
half-way between Northampton and Hatfield. Cap
tains Lothrop and Beers, with about one hundred

26 Historic Hadley
men, crossed the river to Hatfield, while reenforce-
ments from Northampton came to meet them, in
tending to parley with the Indians and to try to
persuade them to give up their weapons. They found
the fort deserted, but, as they were following the
trail, suddenly the enemy, hidden In the woods, "let
fly 40 guns." The fight lasted three hours, during
which nine men from nine different towns were killed,
Azariah Dickinson, son of Nathaniel, of Hadley, being
among the first to fall. Too late the soldiers realized
that men accustomed to march in bodies, though well
trained in the arts of war, could not compete with
an unseen foe, concealed behind trees and unencum
bered with clothing. Pikes and heavy muskets were
of no avail. This was the beginning of sorrows.
Rev. Solomon Stoddard, in his story of these battles,
says: "Many sins are so grown in fashion that it
becomes a question whether they be sins or not," and
especially mentions "intolerable pride in clothes and
hair." The Puritans firmly believed that calamities
came In punishment for sin. The Hadley people were
not able now, however, to spend much time in repen
tance for minor transgressions, as safety was to be
secured only by constant vigilance. At this time, ac
cording to an oft-told tale, the settlers were observing
a fast day service in the church when it was surrounded
and attacked by a body of Indians. "Suddenly, in
the midst of the people, there appeared a man of very

A Reign of Terror In Old Hadley 27
venerable aspect and different from the Inhabitants
In his apparel, who took the command, arranged and
ordered them In the best military manner, and under
his direction they repelled and routed the Indians and
the town was saved. . . . The inhabitants could not
account for the phenomenon, but by considering that
person as an Angel of God. . . . The Angel was cer
tainly General Goffe." Thus runs the tale as related
by the historian of olden time. For many years this
story was beUeved, and the scene, as depicted in the
old engraving, "The Angel of Hadley," is to-day
preserved In many homes. Sir Walter Scott, In Peveril
of the Peak, related the Incident, and only recently has
the modern historian discovered that Hadley was not
attacked that day, September, 1675, and that the story
Is based only upon a tradition which has no real
foundation. But though this particular attack may not have
been made, yet the air was full of rumors of war, and
the panic-stricken Inhabitants lived In constant expec
tation of slaughter and destruction. We can hardly
reaUze the terror of those days In the unprotected
hamlet, when the forests all about seemed filled with
the shadows of unseen foes. Again and again, alarmed
by some unknown cause, the cattle and horses came
rushing into the clearing in a wild stampede, and the
women and children hid in the darkest corners of their
homes, and held their breath for fear. Captain

28 Historic Hadley
Lothrop, with seventy men, started toward Deerfield to
act as a guard for a train of carts laden with grain for
Hadley. A sudden attack at Muddy Brook caused Its
waters to flow red with the blood of fifty-four soldiers
and seventeen teamsters, taken off their guard as they
were plucking grapes by the roadside, while the brave
captain, attempting to rally his men, fell to rise no
more. The words of the historian give but Uttle idea
of the desolation which that fated expedition brought
to many happy homes. He says: "This was a black
and fatal day, wherein were 8 persons made widows
and 20 children made fatherless, all in one Uttle plan
tation, and above 60 persons buried In one dreadful
grave." The brook, so muddy then, has since been
known as Bloody Brook. The "dreadful grave" is
marked by a monument with an appropriate inscrip
tion that all the world may read. John Barnard, son
of Francis Barnard of Hadley, was among the teamsters
slain on this expedition.
Alarmed by this calamity, the Commissioners of the
New England Colonies despatched three hundred
Massachusetts militia and two hundred Connecticut
soldiers for the defense of Hampshire County. Major
Pynchon was in Hadley commanding these forces
when an express reached him in the middle of the
night with the warning that five hundred of King
PhiUp's men were in readiness to fall upon Springfield.
Almost frantic the Major with his troops started toward

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 29
the south, to see afar off the sky red with the flames of
thirty-two blazing houses, only thirteen remaining un
harmed. This disaster was not wrought by Philip,
but by the near neighbors and sometime friends under
Wequogon, that peaceful sachem who signed the deed
by which the meadow of Hockanum was added to
Hadley. That those who had almost been inmates of
their homes could do such fearful wrong to their
benefactors created in the hearts of the settlers a
desire for revenge. By order of the soldiers an old
squaw was tom to pieces by dogs, and other cruel acts
unworthy of a civilized people were committed. Good
Parson Russell, feeling the helplessness of men, wrote:
" Our town of Hadley is now like to drink next, if
mercy prevent not, of this bitter cup. We are but
about 50 families and now left soUtary. We desire to
repose our confidence in the living and eternal God
who Is the refuge of his people."
The winter of 1675 and 1676 was a season of gloom.
The Indians seldom fought when the trees were destitute
of leaves, and so it was determined to prepare for a
state of siege. In spite of the cold and storm all able-
bodied men were compelled to work upon the "pali-
saides," which were built crossing the home lots behind
the buildings on both sides of the street, and across at
either end. Solid stakes of timber eight feet long were
split and sharpened, then driven close together two
feet Into the ground. To these were nailed heavy

30 Historic Hadley
horizontal slabs a few inches below the top, thus
making a fence too high and formidable to climb and
too thick for bullets to penetrate. This fortified enclo
sure was about a mile long, with strong gates In each
of the four sides. The fighting men were divided into
military watches, called squadrons, and constant guard
was kept both night and day. Rumors were abroad
that Philip and his men were hovering near, and
though all these reports were unconfirmed, yet in
Imagination the mountain sides swarmed with the
foUowers of that dreaded chieftain whose very name
struck terror to the bravest heart. One morning in
April, 1676, Deacon Richard Goodman, with a party
of men, went cautiously out to work In Hockanum
meadow. The deacon carelessly moved a little beyond
the guards, the better to observe his fences, when he
fell shot through the heart, and a scouting party,
rushing from the woods, seized upon Thomas Reed
and dragged him away. Thus a widow and eight
children were added to the helpless ones to be main
tained and protected by the town fathers. After this
it was ordered that, when the farmers were haying in
Hockanum and Fort meadows all the garrison, except
eight left for the security of the women and children,
should attend them as a guard, and that not less than
forty nor more than fifty men at one time should work
in the meadows.
About this time Samuel Smith, Lieutenant of the

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 31
"train-band," being near eighty years of age, requested
to be freed from military service, and PhiUp Smith,
his son, was chosen in his place. That same year
Joseph Kellogg was an ensign, and the next year he was
promoted to be lieutenant. Aaron Cooke, who was
captain of the militia for thirty-five years. Inherited
from his father a book entitled " The Compleat Body
of the Art Military," and from his study of this prob
ably acquired his excellence in the profession of arms.
But the glory of the Hampshire troopers caused the
plain militia men to seem but Insignificant, although
when active service was required the farmer soldiers
were always at the front.
The minister's house being the headquarters of the
officers of the troop, it has been supposed that Goffe,
the regicide, removed to the home of Peter Tilton,
where he remained the rest of his life. Others believe
that fearing it would be impossible to keep his presence
a secret when the town and even his place of refuge
was filled with soldiers. Parson Russell contrived to
have his guest escorted to Hartford, and settled among
friends. The fact that Goffe's diary, from which much
is learned about his life in New England, was found
among the effects left by Parson Russell, gives us
reason to believe that the wanderer was permitted to
return and spend his last days in Hadley among the
few faithful ones entrusted with the secret of his
presence. Communication with his wife and children

32 Historic Hadley
failed, and for this reason, wherever he was, he died
a broken-hearted man. The tradition in Hadley that
two strangers were buried in Parson Russell's cellar
gives rise to the beUef that the graves of both regicides
may have been concealed beneath that gloomy chamber
where they had so often taken refuge. Wherever
their graves may have been, their poor bodies remained
undiscovered, and rested In peace.
Thomas Reed, the captive carried away from Hock
anum meadow, escaped and returned with the infor
mation that the Indians were gathering In force near
Deerfield and were "secure and scornful," boasting
of great things they had done and should do. Alarmed
by this report the troops and citizens of the river
towns agreed to strike a decisive blow at the enemy,
and If possible to attack him In his camp by night.
A company of fifteen Hadley men, under sergeants
John Dickinson and Joseph Kellogg, ca-ossed the upper
ferry and joined the mounted force of one hundred
and fifty soldiers from Springfield, Westfield, North
ampton, and Hatfield, commanded by Captain William
Turner. The Indian encampment was reached under
cover of the darkness, according to the plan, and the
Inmates suffered a " great and notable slaughter " ; but
the outcome of the expedition was disastrous, for on
the return march the Indians fell upon the line, killed
Captain Turner and thirty-eight of his men, and
captured others, some of whom were afterward tor-

A Reign of Terror In Old Hadley 33
tured and burned at the stake. Isaac Harrison and
John Crow of Hadley were among the victims, and
Jonathan Wells, wounded and suffering, reached the
settlement after wandering three days in the woods.
A great number of Indians perished In this "FaUs
Fight," and many were drowned In the river. The
loss of the EngUsh was so great, however, that it
could hardly be considered a victory on their part,
for the Indian camp was not broken up, and those
remaining were aroused to a greater fury by the
attack, which resulted in the death of many of their
women and children.
It seemed now most imperative that the headquarters
of the Indians should be permanently destroyed so
that the settlers could cultivate their fields and harvest
their crops in peace. With this in view another expe
dition Into Hampshire County was organized by sol
diers from Connecticut and southern Massachusetts,
and the first division, consisting of two hundred and
fifty mounted Englishmen and two hundred friendly
Indians on foot, started from Norwich and on the
seventh day arrived In Hadley hungry and footsore.
The horsemen were mostly from towns along Long
Island Sound, and the Indians were Pequots, Mohe
gans, and Niantics, whose appearance in the streets
almost caused a panic, as the inhabitants had never
before seen so large a body of friendly Indians together,
and could not reaUze that although they had copper-

34 Historic Hadley
colored faces, their "hearts were white." June 8,
while waiting for the Massachusetts contingent, a
great parade was held, and the "Army from Connec
ticut," four hundred and fifty strong, with colors
flying, marched up and down Hadley street to
the sound of drum and fife. Provisions of bread,
pork, and Uquor were brought from Norwich, but not
In a sufficient quantity to satisfy the soldiers, who
were billeted In the homes of the citizens, and fed
with such supplies as could be secured. Their bread
was found to be unfit for use on actount of a "blue
mould" with which it was discolored, and the tobacco
demanded was difficult to obtain.
The town was filled with troops and every home
was crowded In most uncomfortable fashion. Joseph
Kellogg and Samuel Partrigg were kept busy ferrying
passengers and horses across the river, Samuel Porter
acted as a nurse, Richard Montague, the grave-digger,
baked the soldiers' bread, and Timothy Nash repaired
their arms. Dr. William Locke, who came to Hadley
with Captain Lothrop, dressed wounds and dispensed
physic to each in tum, as need required. Mr. Russell
recorded that the board of the officers, whom he enter
tained, was paid, but that his wife Rebecca never
received anything for her great "trouble, cumber and
care." Probably at this time she was assisted by the
negro slaves whom her husband left as part of his
estate. Those of the citizens who were inclined to

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 35
murmur were thankful indeed when what might have
been a terrible calamity was tumed into a victory by
the presence of their troublesome guests.
June 12, 1676, a double surprise occurred, for about
two hundred river Indians, not knowing that four
hundred and fifty soldiers from the south had recently
arrived, made an attack on Hadley and were "terribly
frighted with the report and slaughter made amongst
them by the Great Gun." Whether the town had ob
tained this terrible weapon, or whether the soldiers
brought it with them, we cannot tell, and the enemy
did not stop to find out. It was only a very small
cannon, but it did good service on this and other
occasions and caused the Indians to keep at a respectful
distance. This attack aroused the settlers to take
extra precautions for the safety of the helpless ones
entrusted to their care. Stockades were built around
the meeting-house that the women and children might
have a place of refuge in case the enemy should get
Inside the fortifications. Every man was compelled
to go to meeting armed, or to pay a fine of twelve-
pence, and his arms were not to be stacked at the door
but were to lie ready at his hand. In this manner the
Hadley people lived, year after year, fearing for their
lives until the very fear became a custom. Armed
men gathered In tovm-meeting and voted, to build new
fortifications, with rails ten feet long and three inches
thick, set two feet Into the ground. Each squadron

36 Historic Hadley
erected a watch house within whose shelter one of
their number always was on guard. All the males
over sixteen, with an escort of soldiers, went out to
clear the Pine Plain east of the town to make It fit for
pasture. The Indians burned the corn mill with the
house adjoining, and continued their depredations on
outlying property which was of necessity left un
guarded. It was hoped that the death of King
Philip In 1676 might bring the Indian warfare to
a close, but his followers, having tasted blood, were
no longer dependent on him as a leader in their struggle
with the whites. War between England and France
caused friction among the colonies, and resulted in
battles in which the Indians were used as allies, and
many more years of anxiety were spent in "scouting
in woods," "watching by day and warding by night,"
repairing fortifications, and raising the wherewithal to
pay the burdensome taxes, Hadley, at this time having
three hundred and twelve inhabitants, had a curious
way of settUng accounts. The town, being indebted
to a citizen, subtracted his tax rate and the rates of
others to whom he owed money, and paid him the
balance in wheat and Indian corn.
Realizing that war was demoralizing, those in au
thority tried to exercise the greater watchfulness as to
the manners of the people. Gershom Hawkes was
fined for having In his possession a pack of cards, and
refusing to tell where he obtained them, and " Joseph

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 37
Kellogg, Jr,, and Gershom Hawkes were fined 10s.
each for breach of the Sabbath, having travelled till
midnight the night before the Sabbath." The gen
ealogy tells us that the said Gershom Hawkes "died
young," so his unruly actions did not long trouble his
associates, and probably Joseph Kellogg, senior, was
not sorry. Jane Jackson, servant of Lieutenant Philip
Smith, was given twenty lashes on her bare back before
the court for stealing from her master. Parents were
obliged to pay for glass in the meeting-house windows
broken by their mischievous boys. Samuel Nash, nine
years old, having been killed by a fall from his horse,
which was frightened by a dog, the boy's father brought
suit against Mr. Goodwin, the owner of the dog. The
jury returned the following verdict: "It doth not
appeare yt Mr. Goodwin or Mrs. Goodwin had suffi
cient notice given them of their dog's curstness or any
warning to restrayne their dog, and therefore the Corte
doth acquit them, and accounteth Goodman Nash or
his wife blameworthy in not having a more strict
watch over their son, but letting him goe to fetch ye
mare from pasture with such mean tackling."
As if Hadley had not enough to endure from with
in and without, to the natural fears of her citizens
were added superstitious terrors, for in the midst of
the second Indian war Mrs. Mary Webster, reputed
to be a witch, began to cast an evil eye about her to
see what mischief she might do. As a consequence.

38 Historic Hadley
cattle would stop In front of her house and stand
trembling until by her magic power she allowed them
to pass. A load of hay, upset by her machinations,
returned to its normal position without help from
human hands, when the woman was threatened by
the driver. She entered the door of a neighbor's house,
when lo, the baby In the cradle was raised three feet
in air, and replaced by an unseen power upon Its
pillow. A hen flew down the chimney into a pot of
boiling water, and the witch was found to be suffering
from a scald. Enraged, the citizens "haled her down
to Boston," where, after trial, she was acquitted and
returned in triumph to her home, only to revenge
herself upon Deacon Philip Smith, "a man for devo
tion, sanctity, gravity and all that was honest, exceeding
exemplary." This valuable citizen was, according to Cotton
Mather, "murdered with an hideous witchcraft." "A
wretched woman of the town, being dissatisfied at his
just care about her, expressed herself unto him In such
a manner that he declared himself apprehensive of
receiving mischief at her hands." He began to be
"very valetudinarious " and, after wonderful manifes
tations in the sick-room, died, and his body was found
"full of holes that seemed to be made with awls," all
of which is related In the Magnalia, with full particulars
added. While the sufferer was yet alive, a number of
brisk lads dragged the witch out of the house, hung

A Reign of Terror in Old Hadley 39
her up until nearly dead, and then burled her In the
snow, but, according to the record, "It happened that
she survived and the melancholy man died." Mary
Webster lived eleven years after her hanging, and died
a natural death, a proof to many minds that she really
was a witch.
Parson John Russell, after the death of both the
regicides had removed the shadow from his home, was
able to devote more time and energy to the work
among his chosen people. His letters from Hadley to
officials in Boston, during the Indian wars, contain
much valuable information concerning the history of
the town. May, 1665, he preached the election sermon
at Boston, taking for his text the words, " Pray for the
peace of Jerusalem. They shall prosper that love
Thee." This appeal from one living in Hadley at
that critical period was most significant and must have
come home to every heart. Worn out with Indian
alarms, hiding regicides, and fighting witchcraft, on
December 10, 1692, John Russell, the first minister
of Hadley, died, and in the depth of winter his body
was carried to the burying-ground and laid beside his
wife Rebecca. The Inscription on the table of sand
stone placed above his grave Is studied to-day with
exceeding interest by the many visitors to this historic
cemetery. His memory is honored as that of one who
was, by virtue of his courage and fidelity, the hero of
Old Hadley.

CHAPTER III
the church IN OLD HADLEY
I. The Pastorate of Rev. Isaac Chauncey
The bell procured in 1690 by Goodman Partrigg
rang out a clamorous peal at early dawn the 16th of
October, 1695, and soon the voters of Hadley were
wending their way to the little meeting-house on the
hlU, The forests were resplendent in gay autumnal
garb, but the town fathers, intent on business vital to
the welfare of the community, had no time to note
the beauties of nature. With guns in hand, they took
their seats in the dilapidated sanctuary, and there, in
town-meeting assembled, voted : " That we doe ernestly
desire ye Rev, Mr. Isack Chancy that he would be
pleased to settle amongst us to be our minister."
Immediately after Parson Russell's death, two " mes
sengers" had been appointed to secure a pastor, but
the candidates discovered, Samuel Moody and Simon
Bradstreet, though acceptable In the pulpit, each re
quired as salary more corn, wheat, and peas than the
people could afford to pay. At last, July, 1695, Rev.
Isaac Chauncey, son of Parson Israel Chauncey of

First Church and Town Hall

The Church In Old Hadley 41
Stratford, and grandson of Rev. Charles Chauncey, the
august president of Harvard College, was engaged as
a supply, and the hearts of his hearers were taken by
storm. In their cautious and dignified manner they
proceeded to make overtures to this bright young
preacher, and were rejoiced when he accepted their
call, on terms with which they could comply. The
parish bought of Samuel, the son of Parson Russell,
the home of their first minister for £120, and spent
£20 on repairs and Improvements. They offered Mr.
Chauncey the home lot and buildings, twenty acres
of meadow land, a salary of £70 a year in "provision
pay," for three years, and afterwards £80 annually
and his firewood. After his ordination the new pastor
betook himself straightway to some unknown place
for Sarah, his bride, and the newly married pair set
themselves bravely at work to do their utmost in the
parish to which the Lord had called them. The en
thusiastic utterance of a youth but twenty-five years
old, and fresh from Harvard College, must have caused
some agitation among the grave and reverend fathers
In his congregation, but their minds were so much
perturbed by alarms from without that they had no
inclination to quarrel with their minister, who soon
was to be called upon for sympathy and consolation
In an hour of urgent need.
A party of Indians from Albany, encamped above
Hatfield, though supposed to be friendly, were the

42 Historic Hadley
cause of much anxiety to the elders In the community,
who, remembering the days of old, felt their presence
to be a menace. Another typical October morning
dawned in the lovely valley. Richard Church, the
Hadley tailor, and grandson of Richard the first settler,
accompanied by Samuel Barnard and Ebenezer Smith,
went hunting in the eastern woods. Toward night
two badly frightened boys rushed into the broad street,
with news that after leaving their companion they
had heard gun shots, accompanied by savage yells,
away in the depths of the forest. Then there was
gathering of forces from three neighboring towns, and
hurried departure through the evening shadows, and
noiseless searching among rocks and underbrush
and fallen trunks of trees, until, almost at daybreak,
the seekers found the object of their quest. Trans
fixed by arrows and mutilated by bullets, with scalp
torn away and clothing destroyed, the body of Richard
Church was tenderly carried to the home where waited
his poor young bride, Sarah Bartlett, and his mother.
Widow Mary Church.
Determined that the murderers should be punished,
the friends and neighbors of the hapless young man
started In hot pursuit, and having had long years of
training In the ways of savage warriors, beat the red
miscreants at their own game. The guilty Indians
were discovered deep hidden in a cave on the west
end of Mount Toby, and were " haled " not too gently

The Church In Old Hadley 43
to Northampton, loaded with irons hastily constructed
by the village blacksmith, and, as there was no prison,
were confined in a private house with a grim constable
as their jailer. John Pynchon, Samuel Partrigg,
Joseph Hawley, and Aaron Cooke, "Esquires," and
Joseph Parsons, " Gentleman," were especially com
missioned to hold a court of Oyer and Terminer,
October 21, 1696, for the trial of these cases, and
Sheriff Samuel Porter of Hadley took care that the
criminals were prodticed before the judges. Other
Indians, frightened at the determination of the settlers,
tumed state's evidence and the prisoners were speedily
convicted and sentenced to be shot to death. Their
execution in Northampton was witnessed by an Im
mense crowd from all the country round. This w^as
the first Instance of capital punishment In Hampshire
County. Thus with a tragedy among his people was
Inaugurated the pastorate of Rev. Isaac Chauncey,
and one of the first duties of that opening year must
have been to extend the consolations of religion to the
widowed bride and bereaved mother of Richard Church.
Mr. Chauncey came to Hadley just in time to settle
the controversy about the dignity of the seats in the
meeting-house gallery. It was voted that "Ye first
seat in ye front gallerye Is look to be eaquall with ye
second seat In the body of ye meeting-house, and that
ye west end of ye side gallerye to be eaquall with ye
third seat In ye body of ye meeting-house," The

44 Historic Hadley
building itself, having been used as a fort and place of
refuge for so many years, was In a dilapidated condi
tion, but war time was not a propitious season in
which to build a new one. At last the peace of
Utrecht ended the long struggle, and the citizens
thanked God and took courage.
Now came a busy time for Hadley. Her people,
cooped up so long behind the fortifications, tore down
the stockades, planted new fields, mended the fences,
repaired their dwellings, and resumed the business
of peaceful every-day Ufe. The work of collecting tur
pentine from pine trees and shipping It to Hartford,
though very profitable, had to be restricted lest all the
pines remaining be permanently injured. The town
gave Deacon Smith and Lieutenant Nash permission
to get turpentine from the trees on Spruce Hill, the
quantity not to exceed one thousand boxes. The tur
pentine was often exchanged for rum, as minister and
deacons and all the church members drank liquor as
regularly as they ate their daily bread, and the licensed
innkeepers, Hezekiah Dickinson and Joseph Smith,
could not buy or make enough to supply their guests.
Sometimes men were allowed to sell rum in their own
homes, as in the case of Richard Goodman, who was
a "retailer" before he kept the ferry. Philip Smith
was permitted to sell to those "in real need," and
Samuel Partrigg to sell to the "neighbors." Andrew
Warner was a "Maltster," and Samuel Porter had a

The Church in Old Hadley 45
"still and worm," and doubtless both ministered to
these " real needs " of neighbors far and near. Orange
Warner was the last maltster of Hadley. But alto
gether the people could not manufacture enough of
any kind of drink to satisfy the demand, so aqua vitae
was imported, and rum was brought in hogsheads and
sold In small amounts to those inveterate drinkers,
who seldom became drunken.
Visitors to the valley, after Its people had repaired
the ruin wrought by the Indian wars, saw perched
upon Hadley hill a fine new meeting-house, modem
In style as became the temple in which a progressive
people worshiped the Lord. The little old first edifice
was falling in pieces when, in 1713, another important
town-meeting was held, over which Samuel Porter
presided as moderator. Here the people voted "That
we will build a new Metting Hous" and "That the
Meting house that we have agreed to build shall be
40 foot In length and 40 foot in breadth, with a flattish
roof and a Bellcony on one end of said house." The
committee, Samuel Porter, "Left." Nehemiah Dickin
son, "Sargt." Daniel Marsh, Peter Montague, and
Samuel Barnard, were instructed to buy glass, nails,
"clabbords," and shingles, and to hire workmen, "Im
proving our own Inhabitants as conveniently as may
be." The second meeting-house was finished In 1714,
and stood for ninety-five years. The "flattish roof"

46 Historic Hadley
would now be considered steep. The "bellcony,"
built up from the ground, was the first steeple In
Hampshire County. The bell tower was probably not
at once completed, the committee finding It necessary
to get the frame raised and covered and plastered, and
to set the "joyners" windows firmly in their places,
before spending time and money on what was purely
ornamental. The beams overhead were hidden by
plastering, but the posts and braces were painted and
left In sight. When the building was almost finished
"Captain Aaron Cooke, Esq., Ensign Chileab Smith,
Mr. Samuel Porter, Esq., Jonathan Marsh, Deac.
Nathaniel White and Deac. John Smith" put their
wise heads together in a vain endeavor to seat the new
meeting-house in a manner more acceptable to the
aristocracy than had been the arrangement in the old
one. In 1717 more pews were built, the gallery and
desk were painted, "pentlces" were placed over the
doors, and efforts were made to keep the rain from
spoIUng the plastering by beating under the eaves.
After a time Eleazer Porter, son of Samuel, the first
settler, replaced the simple pulpit and sounding-board
with new ones more elegant than those In Northampton
or Hatfield, and also presented a handsome new desk
for the minister's use. The children gazed with
wonder on the elaborate wooden canopy which seemed
to project in air with no visible support above the
parson's head, and threatened to come down with a

The Church in Old Hadley 47
crash when in tremendous tones the reverend speaker
thundered forth the terrors of the law. Their fears
were not without reason, for, although through all these
theological thunderings the sounding-board remained
firm, yet the Uttle diamond-shaped panes of glass did
become loosened from the leads which held them and
were replaced in a firmer fashion with " square glass "
of a later style. Square pews built by Individuals, and
considered much more respectable than narrow sUps,
took the place of the old-fashioned long seats. Eleazer
Porter owned a square pew, and other well-to-do
people built similar ones, with supports fastened to the
floor, so there could be no clattering, such as was heard
in many churches when children moved about.
Seating the meeting-house continued to produce hot
contentions, as the selectmen were obliged to regard
"age, estate," and many sorts of "qualifications."
Heads of famiUes sat In their pews in the body of the
house, and females in the gallery on the right, while
the males were on the left. After 1772 the front seats
in the side galleries were reserved for singers. Little
children on low benches in the aisles were ever con
scious of the keen old eyes watching them from the
gallery where the tithing man was on the lookout for
offenders. At any appearance of levity, with a sharp
rap on the top of the seat his official staff would be
pointed directly at the unlucky wight, who, conscious
of the reproving gaze of the whole congregation, wished

48 Historic Hadley
that the floor might open and swallow him up. Before
the pulpit, opposite the broad aisle, sat the deacons In
a solemn row. On the top of the partition next the
aisle was balanced the christening basin, and here the
minister performed the rite of baptism, often on infants
but twenty-four hours old. A leaf which hung near by,
when raised, was covered with a white cloth, and upon
the table thus made were placed the bread and wine
for the communion service. Among the communicants
In an upper region were certain chattels with black
faces, the property of their brethren In the Lord,
We should Imagine that those old Puritan fathers
would have regarded with scorn any attempt to enslave
a weaker race, as contrary to those principles on which
their very faith was founded. But our heroic ancestors
were human and therefore Inconsistent. They always
had an eye for business ventures which promised gain,
and settled the matter with their consciences as best
they could. For more than one hundred years slavery
existed In the valley towns and the masters and mis
tresses were among the most respected of their citizens.
Joshua Boston, chattel, a consistent member of the
Hadley church, with dignified carriage and gentlemanly
manners, was an important member of the family of
Eleazer Porter. His ability to read and write enabled
him to become well posted in the news of the day, so
that, although a slave, he was glad to fight for the
cause of liberty in the Revolution. We may well

The Church in Old Hadley 49
believe that at his death his master felt that he had
lost property worth £20, at which old Joshua was
valued. Joshua's funeral was attended by many
friends, who mourned him for his worth, irrespective
of the color of his skin. During a period of six years
thirteen negroes died in Hadley and were buried in
the old cemetery. The funerals of these servants were
" Improved " by the ministers as occasions upon which
it was proper to defend the institution of slavery and
endeavor to reconcile the slave to his bonds. Whipping
was the customary punishment for common offenses,
yet in those days when stocks and whipping-post and
ducking-stool were in active operation for white crimi
nals, this penalty may not have been excessive. The
Hadley slaves were treated much like children, and
were not subjected to more severe discipline than were
the sons and daughters of their owners.
Parson Isaac Chauncey was a conscientious man.
He preached long sermons in which were clearly por
trayed the principles of right and justice, yet, like his
predecessor, he was a slaveholder and saw no harm
In following a practice which he believed was taught
In the Old Testament scriptures. His helpmeet,
Sarah, died when thirty-eight years old, leaving ten
children. The father of this family was also the
master of Arthur Prutt, Joan, his wife, and their
dusky brood of seven, named respectively, George,
Elenor, Ishmael, Csesar, Abner, Zebulon, and Chloe.

50 Historic Hadley
The fact that Arthur had a surname indicates that he
may have been bought from another rather than im
ported directly from the African coast. It must have
been difficult for the minister to fill so many hungry
mouths on the pittance paid for his services, and a
Southern planter would have sold some of these young
darkies, but we find no proof that this was ever done.
It Is very probable that each of the parson's daughters,
Mrs. John Graham, of Southbury, Conn., Mrs.
Grindal Rawson, of South Hadley, Mrs. Daniel Russell,
of Rocky HIU, Conn., and Mrs. Hobart Estabrook, of
East Haddam, received a slave when she was married
to the minister of her choice, and thus the negro
family was kept within bounds. George, the son of
Arthur Prutt, died In Whately. The parson's son,
Richard Chauncey, brought a slave to the East Pre
cinct, afterwards Amherst, and Josiah Chauncey, a
prominent resident of the same town, was the master
of Caesar Prutt.
The Chauncey brothers were violent Tories, and
Csesar, the slave, not sympathizing with their senti
ments, must have run away, for when Captain Reuben
Dickinson raised his famous company at the time of
the Lexington alarm, the bondman Csesar stood side
by side with other Amherst residents, and did his
duty with the rest. The patriotic slave of a Tory
master, knowing the bitterness of servitude, was eager
to fight for freedom. Years passed. Josiah Chauncey

The Church In Old Hadley 51
and his wife left Amherst, and died In Schenectady,
New York. The Revolutionary veterans were awarded
pensions, but nothing is heard of Csesar Prutt. At
last, when in April, 1801, Amherst held its annual
town-meeting In the old church on the hill, the clerk
recorded the following: "Voted, that Csesar Prutt, a
Town Pauper, be Set up at Vendue to the lowest
bidder for Vitualling and Beding, and was Struck off
to Asa Smith for one year for One Dollar Per week."
Alas for Csesar! We can Imagine the decrepit old
Revolutionary hero, with black face and snowy wool
and trembling, knotted hands, standing before his
fellow townsmen, as they auction him off for one
dollar per week. Asa Smith, tired of his undertaking,
passed his charge along to Samuel Hastings, and thus
the sorry tale goes on. Each year, more feeble and
Infirm, old Csesar Is brought to the town-meeting and
sold to the lowest bidder. Suddenly, in 1806, the
record ends, and probably the life went out as a candle
is extinguished, leaving but little trace behind. In
some unknown corner of West Cemetery in Amherst
the wornout body was laid away, and his very name
was forgotten.
The name of Zebulon, the youngest son of Arthur
Prutt, will forever be connected with the history of
the ancient bird that perches on the Hadley meeting
house steeple. When the belfry, rising almost one
hundred feet In air, with plUars and fretwork, was com-

52 Historic Hadley
plete, the weather-cock, which for more than one hun
dred and fifty years has creaked round and round
above the broad street, was placed in Its lofty position.
This gUttering fowl, brought over from England, and
almost as large as a sheep, was so attractive to the
young darky, Zeb Prutt, that he cUmbed the spire
and sitting on the rooster's back crowed in a manner
worthy of the biped he bestrode. The gay and frisky
Zeb, who seemed to be not cast down by the fact of
his servitude, afterward became the property of Oliver
Warner of Amherst.
During the pastorate of Parson Chauncey the people
of Hadley discovered that the great useless mountain
in their midst might be of some practical value. There
fore the town voted to fence in the north side of " Mount
holioke" for a cow and sheep pasture. One tenth of
the old township of Hadley was, in their opinion,
wasted In this mountain, which was simply an obstacle
In their way. The Indians had taken refuge in Its
thickets, cattle had fallen over its precipices, and
altogether it was an undesirable possession, separating
the citizens from their children who had persisted in
leaving the old home for the untried lands beyond.
In 1727 twenty-one of the southern settlers, because
they were "8 miles from the place of public worship
and the way was mountainous and bad," petitioned to
be made into a precinct, now South Hadley. Thus
the Hadley church gained a second daughter, but

The Church in Old Hadley 53
lost some valuable supporters. Very soon the "East
Inhabitants beyond the Pine Plain" demanded that
they also should be "set off," and soon the East
Precinct, afterwards Amherst, in its own meeting
house was listening to long sermons by the Rev.
David Parsons.
Parson Chauncey, although concealing no regi
cides within his home, had still an ever present
grief in the misfortune which had befallen his dearly
beloved eldest son Israel. This brilliant young theo-
logue, a graduate of Harvard in the class of 1724, after
teaching in the academy at Hadley, and preaching in
Northampton and Housatonic, was sought by the
church In Norwalk, Conn., for Its vacant pulpit.
Suddenly his career was cut short by an attack of
violent dementia, brought on by excessive study. With
no asylum for a refuge, the " distracted young man "
was confined in a small outhouse in his father's yard,
and his midnight shriekings of " fire " passed unnoticed
as the ravings of a maniac. Alas, there came a night
when the alarm was all too true, and the poor lunatic
cried in vain until his room was wrapped in flames
which were discovered too late to save his life.
Before the death of his son the Hadley minister had
been in great demand for services outside the town.
In Sunderland, at the ordination of Rev, William
Rand, and at the funeral of Rev. John Williams of
Deei-field, he spoke acceptable words of counsel and

54 Historic Hadley
sympathy, and when the Rev. Robert Breck of Spring
field, pronounced to be a heretic by one company of
Hampshire County ministers, was finally admitted by
a second and more Uberal council, Mr, Chauncey
preached the ordination sermon and gave the charge.
The tragedy in his home brought on physical ailments
which made It necessary for him to have assistance In
the pulpit, and he preached but little after 1738,
although he lived until 1745. October 16, 1740, George
Whitefield, the English evangeUst, who by the sober
citizens of Hatfield was refused admission to their
pulpit, preached in the Hadley meeting-house and,
waxing fervent In his speech, thundered so loud that
his voice was heard across the river.
II. The Pastorates of Rev. Chester WUUams and
Dr. Samuel Hopkins
Rev. Chester Williams was ordained pastor in Had
ley, January 21, 1741, and when good Parson Chauncey
passed peacefully to his reward, his brisk young col
league, already In the harness, took full charge of
pulpit and parish. This new minister, the son of
Rev. Ebenezer WUUams of Pomfret, Conn., was grad
uated at Yale in 1735, and soon after his settlement
married Sarah, the daughter of Hon. Eleazer Porter,
a wealthy and influential citizen of Hadley. The
village, no longer a fortified town, was now a thriving
rural hamlet. The twenty-one highways, laid out in

The Church in Old Hadley 55
1722 by Samuel and Experience Porter and Lieutenant
John Smith, had been improved and widened, and
cleared from stones and stumps, Joseph Kellogg, a
son of Lieutenant Joseph, kept the ferry at the Aqua
Vitse Meadow. Westwood and Noah Cooke, Ichabod
Smith, Joseph Hubbard, Samuel Dickinson, James
Goodman, Ezekiel Kellogg, and Benjamin Church,
all grandsons of the first settlers, dwelt either in the
old homesteads or had built houses for themselves on
the broad street. The Marsh family was represented
by the aged brothers, Ebenezer and Job, grandsons of
John, the pioneer, and their descendants. Captain
Job Marsh had built in 1715 a house on land given by
the town to his father, Daniel, which is the site of the
present meeting-house and town hall. Valiant Cap
tain Moses Marsh, his son, fought in the Louisburg
campaign, and after the war settled in his native town
and became a most useful and public-spirited citizen.
Moses Cooke, the son of Aaron, and possibly others
of his generation, were in 1745 still living, and could
relate stirring tales of their youthful days when Hadley
was besieged like a citadel of old. For the most part
the town was a settlement of farmers, and fighting was
a well-nigh forgotten art. Lieutenant Noah Cooke
was making rope from hemp raised on his land, and
OUver Warner, the hatter, was supplying his neighbors
v/ith headgear of the latest style. Some articles of
luxury had been Introduced, and the aristocrats were

56 Historic Hadley
carrying gold and silver watches, and warming their
feet by means of wooden stoves lined with tin made
by EUakim Smith and Samuel Gaylord. Moses
Porter had imported a "chair" In which he drove
about, and Parson Williams, dressed in the height of
fashion, was a conspicuous figure as, mounted on the
most valuable saddle horse in the county, he rode up
and down the street making his pastoral calls. His
wardrobe included one cloak, one gown, two great
coats, six coats, six waistcoats, five pairs of breeches,
seven shirts, six neckcloths, three cotton handkerchiefs,
three bands, five stocks, seventeen pairs of stockings,
and smaller articles too many to enumerate. Silver
shoe, knee, and stock buckles, gold sleeve buttons and
rings, a silver tankard and snuffbox, were also num
bered among his possessions. When we realize that
nine years of married life brought to his home six
children we do not wonder that Phillis, a negro slave,
was needed In the parson's kitchen.
At this time Jonathan Edwards was preaching in
Northampton and all the churches were involved in
the controversy regarding the necessary qualifications
for communion. A majority of the ministers In the
county disagreed with Mr, Edwards' teaching that the
Lord's supper was not a converting ordinance. Rev,
Chester Williams, the Hadley minister, was the scribe
of that memorable council, by which the greatest
preacher of New England was sent away In disgrace.

The Church in Old Hadley 57
and Parson WiUiams, together with Enos Nash, the
Hadley delegate, voted for his dismission. Three
years after this occurred Mr, WUUams was seized with
a sudden and fatal illness, and again the Hadley
church was without a pastor.
Some mysterious attraction about this time drew
the attention of a young Yale graduate toward Hadley,
He was the nephew of Jonathan Edwards, and no
doubt had often in his visits to the broad street crossed
the river and viewed the pleasant meadows near at
hand. But something beside scenery must have caused
him to become a "probationer" in the Hadley pulpit.
After preaching for six Sabbaths he accepted the
church's loud and urgent call to settle in the parish,
A special fast-day was appointed to prepare for the
ordination, and then, February 26, 1755, the ceremony
took place and Rev, Samuel Hopkins became the fourth
minister of Hadley, His father, Rev. Samuel Hopkins
of West Springfield, preached the sermon, and Rev.
Stephen Williams of Longmeadow gave the charge.
From church to parsonage was only a short journey,
and it seemed supremely fitting that the new minister
in caring for his flock should pay especial attention to
the family of his predecessor. The sudden attraction
for Hadley may be explained by the fact that, as soon
as decorum would aUow, Rev. Samuel Hopkins married
Mrs, Sarah Williams, widow of the late pastor, and
thus at twenty-six became the step-father of six small

58 Historic Hadley
children, the possessor of many changes of raiment,
the owner of a handsome library, and the mtister of a
comfortable and well appointed home.
According to the diary kept by Madam Porter, the
mother of Mrs, Hopkins, this year, November 18, 1755,
"an awful earthquake" shook the ground beneath
their feet and alarmed the Inhabitants of the whole
county, to whom such a phenomenon presaged dis
aster. But no immediate effects were felt, for although
other Hampshire towns had suffered from Indian
depredations, yet, since the treaty of Utrecht, Hadley
had been unmolested. Encouraged by continued peace,
the people had ventured to settle in the outskirts of
the town. Two miles to the north. In a sheltered
intervale known as Forty Acre Meadow, Moses Porter,
great-grandson of Samuel, the flrst settler, had built in
1752 a commodious dwelling, and installed therein his
bride. Mistress Elizabeth Pitkin, granddaughter of
Phebe, the third wife of Parson Russell. Hardly had
the master of this home welcomed the new minister
within its hospitable portals, when military duty called
Captain Porter to take command of his company and
march to Albany, there to join the regiment of Colonel
Williams in its ill-fated expedition against Crown
Point on Lake Champlain, Enos Smith, a small
Hadley lad, noted with wondering eyes the gorgeous
uniform of the sad-faced soldier, who, obeying duty's
call, left his heart behind with his unprotected wife

The Church m Old Hadley 59
and little daughter EUzabeth In the pleasant home
which he was to see no more. Far away from all
neighbors. Mistress Porter looked weU after her house
hold, and kept a brave heart through the long and
lonely summer. At last the swift express from the
north reached Hadley, and her dread was tumed to
certain knowledge when she learned that six days
before, September 8, her brave husband had fallen
in the battle of Lake George, and that his body,
stripped of its martial trappings, had been left to the
mercy of his foes, only his sword being secured for his
family. All Hadley mourned for the intrepid captain
and sympathized with his widow, left alone to care for
her young daughter and to manage her large estate.
But trials had to be endured in those old days,
and Hadley women were too busy to indulge in nervous
prostration. Madam Porter with sorrowful face went
about her daily tasks, and for forty years was faithful
to her husband's memory. Her little Elizabeth, May
13, 1770, was "pubUshed" to Mr. Charles Phelps, a
young Northampton lawyer, and June 14 the wedding
took place. Her son-in-law relieved Madam Porter of
her many cares, built the gambrel roof above the old
house as we see it to-day, and added to the farm until
it Included six hundred acres. His daughter, the third
Elizabeth, married Rev. Dan Huntington, and his
grandson, Frederic Dan, was the late beloved Bishop
of Central New York. Madam Porter lived to be

60 Historic Hadley
seventy-eight years old. Her body was carried from
her old home to the riverside, placed in a boat, taken
down the stream, and buried In the cemetery beside
the headstone which stands as a memorial to her
husband. Captain Moses Porter, a hero of Old Hadley.
Rev. Samuel Hopkins, the minister In Hadley during
all the years of Madam Porter's widowhood, stands
out from history's page a unique and interesting per
sonality, quite different from the typical New England
parson of the olden time. We see him In his home,
expending his salary of two hundred and twenty-two
dollars so prudently that his nine children and six
step-children were fed and clothed, strangers were
entertained, and a little was laid by for time of need.
We follow him as, attired In long-tailed coat, knee
breeches, a vest with skirts, and buckled shoes, he
calls from house to house, and seated in the chimney
comer puffs upon the pipe kept for his use, and makes
himself at home. But the listener, waiting to hear
the good divine expound the doctrine and the law. Is
sometimes disappointed when unseemly levity takes
the place of improving conversation, for the worthy
parson dearly loves a joke, even when the laugh Is
turned upon himself.
One Sabbath, when dining with Governor Strong,
he declined some pudding between services, saying
that pudding before preaching made him dull, at which
the Governor slyly queried, " Did you not eat pudding

The Church In Old Hadley 61
for breakfast?" Parson Hopkins asked an invalid if
she would not like to have him " preach a lecture " by
her bedside, and received the reply that she would
indeed, as she had slept but poorly the night before,
and his discourses were always soothing. Complaining
that a certain man brought him "soft wood," he was
told that he did so because the people were given
"soft preaching."
But though a joker for six days in the week, on
Sunday Parson Hopkins was dignified in manner and
of slow delivery, with so much of judicial argument
and wisdom in his utterance that an eminent lawyer
remarked that he would make a good judge. He often
adapted his sermons to the discussion of special events.
The "awful earthquake" called forth two discourses,
and a cheerful New Year's sermon, January 1, 1764,
declared, "This year thou shalt die." His five sons-
in-law. Rev. Samuel Spring, Rev. Samuel Austin, Rev.
William Riddel, Rev. Leonard Worcester, and Rev.
Nathaniel Emmons, often visited Hadley, and preached
in the old church, and sometimes the Hadley pastor
exchanged with Mr. Hooker of Northampton, and
with Mr. Parsons of Amherst.
When the parson, his wife, her aged mother, and
twelve children were crowded beneath the ministerial
roof-tree, a sudden misfortune befell the household.
The winds, howling over the western hills and sweeping
across the Hadley meadows, blew a tiny flicker into

62 Historic Hadley
flame, and at one o'clock in the morning, March 21,
1766, a blaze shot into air which illuminated the country
for miles around. Regardless of sermons- or silver,
the parson hustled his children half naked through the
windows, and rushing after them with his Uttle two-
weeks-old Polly hugged close to his breast, assured
himself that all were safe, and then exclaimed to the
raging flames, "Now burn and welcome!" Fortu
nately Madam Porter saved her almanac, and In It
recorded these facts for our Information. She also
tells us that In eleven days a new frame was raised,
and that on November 24 the family moved Into the
rebuilt dwelling.
The years of Dr. Hopkins' ministry were crowded
with events upon which hung the fate of the nation.
The Hadley farmers were all ready for revolution, for
they had been greatly exasperated by the King's sur
veyors who confiscated all trees twenty-four inches In
diameter a foot above the ground, to be made Into
masts for the British navy. In 1765 Josiah Pierce
recorded In his almanac, " A mob In Hadley on account
of logs." The perpetual wrangling over seating the
meeting-house was hushed by the call of the minute
men to arms. Giles Crouch Kellogg, Phineas Lyman,
Oliver Smith, Josiah Pierce, and Jonathan Warner
were appointed a committee of correspondence, and
later Ebenezer and Moses Marsh, John Cowls, Ben
jamin Colt, EUakim Smith, Edmund Hubbard, War-

The Church In Old Hadley 63
ham Smith, and Noah Cooke were added to this
committee. In 1774 Josiah Pierce was sent as Hadley's
delegate to the first Provincial Congress. A powder
house eight feet square was built in the middle lane
and In It was stored four and a half barrels of powder.
Noah Smith and Warham Smith were sent to WlUiams-
town to get the "great gun that used to belong to the
town." On April 29, 1775, at nine o'clock In the
morning, news of the battle of Lexington reached
Hadley, and at one o'clock fifty volunteers started
toward Boston. A committee was appointed to make
saltpetre, and Moses Marsh "took the saltpetre oath."
Hon. Samuel Porter, son of Samuel the first settler,
and a very wealthy man, died in 1722 leaving an estate
of ten thousand dollars. His grandson, Hon. Eleazer
Porter, justice of the peace and judge of probate, and
Elisha Porter, sheriff of Hampshire County, lived
during the Revolution In handsome houses side by
side, built probably by their grandfather on land
granted to their great-grandfather by the town. They
were the sons of Eleazer, who married Sarah Pitkin
and died when fifty-nine years old.
The Hon. Eleazer Porter married for his second
wife, Susanna, daughter of Rev. Jonathan Edwards,
Her word, handed down through her descendants,
proves the house in which she lived to have been
built In 1713, and therefore that it is the oldest house
In town. The visitor to-day gazes with interest on

64 Historic Hadley
the quaint exterior with projecting second story, ex
amines the handsome scroll over the double front door,
and then walks into the narrow hall and up the winding
stairs, where low but sunny chambers open out on
either hand, and a steep staircase leads to a dark and
dismal attic. There we see hewn timbers, some of
which were taken from the old house built by Samuel
Porter, the first settler, and thus a portion of this
ancient mansion dates back to those old days when
the town was born. Below, at the right of the narrow
hall, and lighted by three windows, with deep window
seats, and paneled woodwork, and fireplace six feet
wide, and handsome corner cupboard. Is the room
formerly used as a court room. Across the hall is
another apartment of the same size, and in each
ceiling massive roof-trees a foot square give ample
support to the floor above. After the Hon. Eleazer
Porter died, this house was the home of his son,
Jonathan Edwards Porter, and others of his race and
name have followed until in later years it passed out
of the family.
Colonel EUsha Porter, the proprietor of the other
Porter house, which was built one year later, received
orders January, 1776, to proceed with his regiment to
Quebec. Such a journey In the depth of winter re
quired much courage, but was accomplished safely,
and the Colonel returned in time to witness the sur
render of Burgoyne at the battle of Saratoga, and to

The Church in Old Hadley 65
make the acquaintance of that hapless officer and
gentleman. Colonel Porter then found it necessary to
come home to attend to his duties as high sheriff.
Soon there was business at Joseph Kellogg's ferry,
where a straggling army of Hessian mercenaries, pris
oners of war, waited to be set over the river. Hungry
and weary, the rank and file of Burgoyne's army were
thankful to rest beside the stream, and Colonel Porter,
moved by sympathy for the defeated general, well-nigh
helpless with Illness, extended to him the hospitality of
his own home, and allowed his bodyguard to encamp
within the dooryard. The round eyes of the six
Porter children stared with astonishment at the gay
uniforms and gorgeous trappings brought so sud
denly to their very door, and Puritanical ears were
horrified at the careless speech of those disgusted
British soldiers.
The English general found the quiet Hadley home a
very haven of rest, and his natural foes converted Into
kindly hosts, by whose ministrations his strength was
restored, and he was able to resume his journey. In
taking leave, Burgoyne presented to Colonel Porter the
dress sword which he had surrendered and received
again at Saratoga. This invaluable relic was left by
its owner to his son Samuel and from him descended
to his daughter Pamela, who married Dudley Smith,
Their son Samuel Smith, and daughter, Miss Lucy
Smith, now own the sword of Burgoyne, a three-edged

66 Historic Hadley
rapier, with embossed silver handle and fillgreed guard.
The visitor examining the sword Is Interested to de
cipher on the blade near the handle the monogram
G. R,, while on the other side appears the coat of arms
with the motto, "HonI soit qui mal y pense." The
owners of the sword live In a house built on the site of
the old dwelling, which was moved to the rear, where
a part of It Is still standing.
This passing of Burgoyne through Hadley was the
only occasion during the war when the British were in
the Connecticut Valley. Hadley soldiers were always
in the field, and during their absence the town cared
for their families. Large bounties were offered to
volunteers, and horses, blankets, and clothing were,
through many sacrifices on the part of the citizens,
provided for their use. It was even necessary to "sell
the Great Gun at vendue" to raise money to help
carry on the war. No complete list has been preserved
of those who represented Hadley In the Revolution,
but we know that Captain Oliver Smith, Captain
Moses Marsh, Nehemiah Gaylord, and his son Nehe
miah, Josiah Nash, Daniel Bartlett, Ebenezer Pome
roy, Jr., Seymour Kelsey, Francis Traynor, Ichabod
Nye, Medad Noble, and Timothy Smith were in active
service. In the midst of the war Hadley was threatened
with an epidemic of smallpox brought by soldiers re
turning from the northern campaign. Much preju
dice was felt by the ignorant against inoculation.

The Church In Old Hadley 67
but finally it was decided that It was a necessary
measure, and one Sunday morning fifteen patients
submitted to the operation In the home of Moses
Marsh, to the great scandal of many who felt that by
so doing the Sabbath was needlessly broken.
The meeting-house had been reshingled, the bell
recast and made heavier, and general repairs com
pleted, when peaceful Hadley was invaded by another
army, pursuing Daniel Shays and his adherents of
rebellion fame. The snow was piled in drifts, and the
roads almost impassable, when General Lincoln and
his three thousand soldiers made their camp one
memorable Sunday moming, January 13, 1787, on the
broad street. Cannon were stationed north of the
meeting-house, and preparations were made by which
to keep the Sabbath after the good old fashion. Dr.
Hopkins being in feeble health, a messenger was sent
to Hatfield for Dr. Lyman, and there behind a pulpit
built of snow, with the three thousand soldiers as his
congregation, the eloquent divine exhorted, preached,
and prayed. The shades of the regicides who lived
and died In Parson Russell's house across the way
may well have graced with their unseen presence this
unique Sunday service.
And now, with all rebellions quelled, the time for a
new meeting-house seemed to be at hand. Lieutenant
Enos Smith, General Samuel Porter, Charles Phelps,
Nathaniel White, Captain Daniel White, Captain Elisha

68 Historic Hadley
Dickinson, Lieutenant Caleb Smith, Israel Lyman,
Josiah Nash, Major Moses Porter, Lemuel Warren,
Windsor Smith, and Percy Smith were chosen a gen
eral committee. Plans were selected, and November 3,
1806, it was voted that a meeting-house should be
built near the site of the old one at the cost of seven
thousand dollars, the money to be raised by selling
pews, and by a rate upon the town. November 17 a
majority of three decided to build the meeting-house
on the Back Street. The vote was then reconsidered
and referred to an "indifferent committee." Charles
Phelps, Samuel Porter, Caleb- Smith, and Captain
Elisha Dickinson were placed in charge of the finances
of the undertaking.
One thing the people had determined, and that was
that there should be no room under the new meeting
house for geese, or sheep, or mischievous boys. The
Hadley geese had multlpUed until almost every family
owned a flock, and these ran the streets, huddling at
night in front of their owners' houses, and on sunny
days crowding under the meeting-house and making
such a racket that the effect of the most eloquent
preaching was entirely destroyed. The building com
mittee, Charles Phelps, Lieutenant Caleb Smith, and
General Samuel Porter, was doubtless Instructed as to
this point and obeyed orders.
The final vote that the meeting-house should stand
near the old one, and that it should be placed east and

The Church in Old Hadley 69
west, with the steeple at the east, prevailed, and the
committee proceeded with its task. Two years later,
in 1808, the edifice standing to-day was completed,
and on its spire was mounted the historic weather-cock,
now freshened and made smart by a new coat of
gilding. The old building was sold and moved away,
and November 8, 1808, the new meeting-house was
dedicated. A new bell was bought at the cost of two
hundred dollars. The pews were sold, parts of the
north gallery being reserved by the town for the use
of males, and parts of the south for females. " Black
males " were allowed to sit in the " north arched pew "
and "Black females" in the "south arched pew." No
hats were to be hung in the building, and stringent
rules for behavior were made and posted by the select
men. The cost of the meeting-house was $8,413 and
the sale of seventy-eight pews brought in $7,031.
Colonel Elijah Dickinson, Major Moses Porter, and
Captain John Hopkins were appointed to borrow on
the credit of the town enough money to complete the
payment for the building.
III. Rev. John Woodbridge and His Successors
Rev. Samuel Hopkins, now aged and infirm, was no
longer able to write and deliver those long and learned
sermons, so the committee requested him to relinquish
a part of his salary, and in 1810 engaged Rev. John
Woodbridge for $500 a year as long as Dr. Hopkins

70 Historic Hadley
lived, together with fifteen cords of wood while he
remained single, and thirty cords after he should
marry. But the venerable pastor's work was almost
done, and soon a great company from all the country
round assembled in the meeting-house to pay the last
tribute of respect to his memory. Dr. Joseph Lyman
preached his funeral sermon, and his people escorted
his body to the grave. Four ministers, Lyman of
Hatfield, Wells of Whately, WUUams of Northampton,
and Parsons of Amherst, with Governor Strong and
Deacon Ebenezer Hunt of Northampton, acted as
pallbearers. Thus they burled Rev. Samuel Hopkins,
minister in Hadley for fifty-seven years.
President Timothy Dwight of New Haven Inspected
the new meeting-house soon after its completion, and
described It as a " handsome structure, superior to any
other in this country." There in the middle of the
broad street, on the historic site occupied by its pre
decessor, this stately building stood during the years
following, while imperceptibly the center of population
moved toward the east. The west street people did
not care to go so far to church, and so as in olden time
"dissensions arose" which in 1840 culminated in re
moving the meeting-house bodily and placing it in Its
present location. The solid structure, evidently built
after a more substantial fashion than Its prede
cessor, showed no signs of spreading when raised
from its foundations, but traveled along In a dignified

The Church in Old Hadley 71
fashion, and when It reached its destination settled
itself to stay.
But though the meeting-house stood firm, many
representatives of the old settlers were in a state of
turmoil and excitement, and felt that they could not
worship God in the new location. The shades of
Parson Russell and his old-time congregation cried out
In very protest, and would not be appeased, April 1,
1841, Jacob Smith and ninety others asked to be
dismissed that they might form another church. Then
came a time of councils and discussions and disagree
ments and disputes. The perplexed ministers, con
vened In a private house, suggested that the seceders
be allowed to worship by themselves for a time, -with
the hope of reconciliation. President Humphrey of
Amherst College went over to see what he could do,
and advised that the disgruntled persons be dismissed,
which was accordingly done. Then -with the help of
an ex-parte council these modem "withdrawers" or
ganized, July 15, 1841, at 2 p. m., the RusseU church
In Hadley, Its members being eighteen men and forty-
one women, dismissed by the First church as in good
standing, and thirty-one others " being In good standing
last June." The Russell meeting-house was erected
on West Street, and its pews, built by individuals,
are to-day the property of the descendants, so that the
building cannot be sold, though it has long been closed
for church purposes. We find Mr, Woodbridge, having

72 Historic Hadley
left the First church, preaching in the Russell church,
and when the First church wanted Rev. Benjamin
Martin for Its minister, the council, of which Mr.
Woodbridge was a member, refused to ordain him,
because he was not orthodox. Another council was
called, with Mr, Woodbridge omitted, and then the
candidate was received. September 15, 1841, Rev.
Warren H. Beaman was settled over the new church
In North Hadley, the last child of the mother church,
and then just ten years old.
Mr, Woodbridge was succeeded by Rev. John Brown,
and he in turn by Rev. Francis Danforth, during whose
ministry the meeting-house was moved. Then came
Rev. Benjamin Martin, and after him Rev. Roland
Ayres, who was installed in the old church January 11,
1848, where he was the faithful and efficient pastor
for thirty-six years. In an anniversary sermon he
states that in 1873 less than one hundred households
were represented in the parish, with sixteen foreign
famiUes In the school district. To-day, in the same
community, the foreign-born residents and their chU
dren form a large part of the population,,-
Yet still the old church holds its own. Rev. J. S.
Bayne preached In its pulpit after Dr. Ayres, and
later Rev. E. E. Keedy was in charge. Its present
pastor. Rev. Thomas A. Emerson, a graduate of Yale
and a newcomer to the valley, recognizes the value of
Its history and tradition, and the duty of perpetuating

The Church m Old Hadley 73
the memory of its founders. A band of patriotic
women have formed themselves into the Old Hadley
Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, with
the avowed purpose of awakening and fostering an
interest in the history of the town.
In 1909 the children of Old Hadley, returning to
celebrate its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, will
visit its historic sanctuary. They will find it still on a
firm foundation, undisturbed by the clang of troUey or
whizz of automobile beneath its very shadow, holding
its lofty steeple high above the new church of St. John
across the way. The weather-cock creaks proudly
round and round as in the days of old, above the airy
fretwork of a spire famous for its beauty of construction
and deUcacy of finish. Mother of many churches
round about, this old church is beloved of her children,
who rejoice to tell the story of the time-honored edifice,
and reverence the memory of the founders of the
valley town, who, with strenuous toil, built that first
Uttle meeting-house on the hill.

CHAPTER IV
HOPKINS GBAMMAE SCHOOL AND ACADEMY
The founders of Ha[dley were imbued with a
love of learning second only to their reverence for
their minister and meeting-house. Education In those
old days meant a knowledge of Latin and Greek, and
the object of education was to preach the word of
God. Girls could not preach and therefore much
schooling for them was not deemed needful, but every
boy must go to school or his father would be brought
up before the magistrate and punished for neglect of
duty. Laws to this effect, made by the General Court,
were enforced by the selectmen of each town, who,
should the parent prove obdurate, were authorized to
take the child from his home and place him with a
suitable guardian. Heads of families were obliged to
catechise their children, to bring them up to a useful
trade, to see that they were not out late at night, and
to watch lest boys and girls should "talk too much
together." The selectmen were ordered to make a
list of all the children between six and twelve years
old, and to divide the town into districts so that not
one truant should escape their notice.

a HoH

g o5 oo o

o

ciiif';*^?' ;<;>

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 75
In 1647 a law was enacted by which every town of
one hundred famiUes was obUged to support a classical
grammar school, where children should be fitted for
college. These schools, although not free Uke the
school In Boston, were yet a grievous burden to the
smaller towns, which, after the minister had been
provided for, found nothing left wherewith to pay a
schoolmaster. Parents all desired that the children
should learn to read and to write, but many felt it to
be more necessary that they should be clothed and
fed than that they should learn the dead languages.
Parson Russell, being a graduate of the college at
"Newtown," to which John Harvard left his library
and fortune, was greatly desirous from the first that
Hadley should have a grammar school, but there seemed
no prospect that such a blessing could be secured.
Nevertheless, in due time, through the legacy of
Edward Hopkins, means were provided for the school
so earnestly desired.
During Parson Russell's pastorate in Wethersfield,
Edward Hopkins, the first secretary of the Colony of
Connecticut, and its govemor, was the most prominent
figure in its social and political life. Bom in England
In 1600, this young Puritan came to Boston in 1637,
In company with his close friend, Theophilus Eaton,
afterward the first and only governor of the Colony of
New Haven. Hopkins, although in very poor health,
found himself at once pushed to the front and called

76 Historic Hadley
upon to assist In the solution of problems of church
and state. As a Commissioner of the United Colonies
he signed in behalf of Connecticut the articles of
confederation by which, in 1643, Massachusetts, Ply
mouth, Connecticut, and New Haven united under
the name of the United Colonies of New England.
While Uving quietly in Hartford, Governor Hopkins
continued his business as a merchant, pushed his
trading stations up the river and into the wilderness,
and founded the trade In American cotton, and all the
time "conflicted with bodily infirmities which held
him for thirty years together." He married Anna
Yale, the daughter of the second wife of Theophilus
Eaton, the widow of David Yale, after whose grandson,
Elihu Yale, the college was named. Mrs. Hopkins
was a literary woman who soon became insane, as the
record runs, "by occasion of her giving herself wholly
to reading and writing." We read further, "Her hus
band being very loving and tender, was loath to grieve
her, but he saw his error when it was too late. For if
she had attended her household affairs and such things
as belong to women and not gone out of her way and
calling to meddle in such things as are proper for men
whose minds are stronger, she had kept her wits and
might have Improved them usefully and honorably in
the place God had set her." This sad effect upon the
female mind of too much study furnished the wise
men of that day with another argument against the

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 77
education of women, and brought lasting grief to the
too indulgent husband, already wasted by disease.
In the midst of his career Edward Hopkins was
suddenly called to England by the death of his brother.
ParUamentary duties detained him in the mother
country, his family joined him, and he died in London
in 1657, two years before the "engagers" betook
themselves and their convictions to the wilderness of
Hadley. The will of Governor Hopkins, after making
due provision for his " dear destressed wife " and other
legacies, bequeathed the residue of his estate to The
ophilus Eaton, John Davenport, John CulUck, and
WilUam Goodwin, " In full assurance of their trust and
faithfulness in disposing of it according to the true
intent of me, the said Edward Hopkins, which is to
give some encouragement in those foreign plantations
for the breeding of hopeful youths, both at the grammar
school and college for the public service of the country
in future times."
The wiU was made in England and "those foreign
plantations" were the New England colonies, Mr.
Eaton died soon after the will was made, as did also
Captain CulUck, so that the disposition of the estate fell
to Davenport and Good-win. As Davenport was pastor
in Boston, the chief burden fell upon Goodwin, who was
a leader in the movement which resulted in the founding
of Hadley. It was through his action that so large a
part of the legacy was secured by the new settlement.

78 Historic Hadley
The Hampshire County court In probate, March 30,
1669, ratified an agreement whereby Parson John
Russell, Jr., Samuel Smith, Aaron Cooke, Jr., Na
thaniel Dickinson, and Peter Tilton were constituted
trustees to act with William Goodwin, and after his
decease to have full power to establish the school in
Hadley and to manage its estates. Including the Hop
kins fund and all other property coming into its pos
session. Hadley's share of the Hopkins fund amounted
to £308. More money was expected to come from
England after the death of Mrs. Hopkins, but this was
never secured by Hadley. The sum received was not
considered sufficient to start and equip the grammar
school. In recognition of this fact donations came in
from citizens who, having no children of their own,
desired to contribute toward so worthy an object for
the benefit of future generations. John Barnard gave
a part of Hockanum meadow and some of the " Greate
Meadowe " and " a piece of land lying in the Forlorn " ;
and Nathaniel Ward, at whose home In Hartford the
"engagers" held their memorable meeting, bestowed
his house and home lot, and a piece of meadow land;
while a few years later, Henry Clark left to the school
his nine-acre lot in Hockanum, and his portion of the
" Greate Meadowe." The town itself granted " two little
meddowes next beyond the Brooke commonlie called
the Mill Brooke" for the support of the school, and
appointed Henry Clarke, Lieutenant Smith, William

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 79
AlUs, Nathaniel Dickinson, Sr., and Andrew Warner
as a committee in charge. These "school Meadows,"
containing about sixty acres, were in the northern part
of the town, adjoining the river, and were separated
by a high ridge on which was the Indian fort. From
this time on the school in Hadley was known as the
Hopkins grammar school, true to the intent of its
benefactor. There is no doubt but that the Uttle children of the
town were gathered In some good wife's kitchen that
first winter of the settlement and were taught by a
"school dame" first lessons from the hornbook and
"New England Primer," but of such teaching no
account has been preserved. The earliest record of
any school in Hadley states that In 1665 it was "Voted
by the Town that they would give 20 pound pr Annum
for 3 yeares toward the maintenance of a Scoole master
to teach children and to be as a helpe to Mr. Russell
as occasion may require." This first "scoole master"
was Mr. Caleb Watson, a Harvard graduate, who was
in Hadley in 1667 and remained as teacher of the
Hopkins school until 1673, when his very decided
difference of opinion with Mr. Russell made it impos
sible for him longer to be a "helpe" in any capacity.
His pupils met in the house presented by Goodman
Ward, which stood on the site of the residence owned
recently by L. S. Crosier. Probably a few girls were
among the scholars, although remembering the fate of

80 Historic Hadley
Mrs. Edward Hopkins, parents must have feared the
effect of too much learning upon their daughters, and
guarded their "Intellects" with zealous care. Girls
were allowed to learn to read, but not to write, and
that historic text-book, the Latin Accidence, was not
for them to meddle with. Arithmetic was taught by
oral methods, as books were rare, and until 1750
spelUng books were unknown.
The foUo-wing general regulations, recorded and en
forced, kept parents to their duty, and children to
their tasks,
" AUsoe with respect to the great ffallure of persons
In not sending their children to scoole it is ordered
and voted by the Town that the present Selectmen and
the Selectmen Annuallye shall take a list of all the
children six years ould to twelve, which shall be com
pellable If not sent to scoole to pay Annuallye according
to and equallye with those that are Sent only some
poore men's children which shall be exempted as they
shall be judged by the Selectmen And ffrom six yeares
ould to continue till twelve at scoole except they Attain
a ripeness and dexteritie in Inferior learning, as writeing
& reading which shall be Judged by the Scoole-
master," Every Latin " ScoUard " had to pay twenty shillings
a year, and every English " ScoUard " sixteen shillings.
In 1677 Mr. John Younglove was the teacher with a
salary of £30 a year, and a home lot on which to live.
In 1680 the town voted to get a teacher "that shall

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 81
teach the Latin Tongue as allsoe the English to any
that are entered with writeing and Cyphering." In
1686 Samuel Partrigg was engaged to teach, and was
paid £8 for his work. Warham Mather, son of the
minister in Northampton, was followed In the school
by Thomas Swan of Roxbury, John Morse of Dedham,
Salmon Treat of Wethersfield, Joseph Smith, the son
of Lieutenant Philip Smith, and John Hubbard.
When in 1698 Joseph Smith was again engaged, the
town built the first schoolhouse, twenty-five by eighteen
feet and seven feet between the joists. In the middle of
the broad street. Deacon Simeon Dickinson, who
died in 1890, aged ninety-five, remembered attending
the Hopkins school when its sessions were held In this
earUest building. Nathaniel Chauncey, the first grad
uate of Yale College, taught the school in 1702. Among
those who came after him were Jonathan Marsh, John
Partrigg, Aaron Porter, all Harvard graduates; and
these were followed by Rev. Daniel Boardman, John
James, and EUsha WiUiams of Hatfield, who after
ward became president of Yale College. Stephen
Williams of Deerfield, Ebenezer Gay of Dedham,
Nathaniel Mather of Windsor, Stephen Steele of
Hartford, Solomon Williams of Hatfield, Daniel Dwight
of Northampton, Benjamin Dickinson of Hatfield,
follow on the list, until in 1724 Israel Chauncey, the
son of Rev. Isaac Chauncey, for a brief period ruled
over the Hopkins school. Most of these who have

82 Historic Hadley
been mentioned, and some who came later, were em
bryo ministers, college graduates or students in the
midst of their college course. During all these years
the Hopkins school had remained a classical grammar
school, but the means by which its Greek and Latin
courses had been preserved in the face of determined
opposition require a separate narrative. The dogged
determination with which these conscientious guar
dians of a sacred trust, with Parson Russell at their
head, in the midst of poverty, discouragement, and
Indian alarms, fought to keep the Hopkins school true
to the spirit of its founder has been an object lesson
for all trustees of pubUc institutions since those stren
uous days of struggle and of victory.
The trustees of the Hopkins fund found that the
most profitable way in which to Invest so large a sum
of money was a problem to be solved. The building
left by Goodman Ward could be used for a schoolhouse,
and the meadow land given by the town and citizens
would yield abundant crops, which could be handed
over to the master. Elder Goodwin, in choosing his
trustees, selected men of strong con-victions, and those
appointed by the town were no less able and efficient.
There seems to have been clashing of wills from the
first among the members of the board, but Goodwin
ruled the day, and vrith the money built a gristmill on
Mill River, south of the school lands, and the town
granted a home lot for the miller. Then with the

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 83
miU just finished, and the school just started, and the
Uttle town which he had labored to estabUsh just
gaining a foothold in the valley, RuUng Elder Goodwin
abandoned the whole undertaking, packed his house
hold goods, and in 1670 removed to Farmington, Conn.,
near to his former home.
It seems to have been Impossible for Mr. Goodwin's
determined wiU to brook opposition, and finding that
men were of many minds in Hadley as weU as in
Hartford, he decided to give up the struggle as aU men
seemed to be against him. In bitterness of spirit he
brought in 1672 a suit in the Springfield court against
Peter Tilton and the other trustees for "Intruding
themselves upon the committeeship about ye estate of
Edward Hopkins, improved in Hadley, contrary to
the mind of the said Mr. Goodwin, trustee to the sd
estate." The case was dismissed, and seven months
later, in 1673, William Goodwin, the last RuUng Elder
of Hadley, died a broken-hearted man.
The court commended his services in the following
words: "The Corte considering the admirable Intenseness,
the Indefatigable care and paynes that Mr, Goodwin
hath expressed to promote and advance the affairs of
the scoole, both for its foundation and progress Doe
thankfully accept thereof." "They acknowledge the
good hand of God in sending those reverend fathers
and worthy Gentlemen the said Trustees to dispose of

84 Historic Hadley
such an estate to these remote parts of the country
and of this colony, for so worthy and eminent a work."
Elder Goodwin's daughter EUzabeth remained In
Hadley as the wife of John Crow, Deacon Rodney
Smith, who died in Hadley In 1890, was a lineal
descendant of William Goodwin,
Although it may have seemed that his endeavors in
behalf of Hadley youth were not appreciated by his
generation, the children of the town have in these later
days reared to his memory a noble monument. Be
neath the shadow of a patriarchal elm It stands, a
handsome brick Ubrary building, containing beside
the well selected volumes a room filled with curios
and reUcs of old Hadley days. Here we see the
Interleaved almanacs in which Josiah Pierce traced
his quaint records, a panel from the old first meeting
house, and many other articles rescued from the
shadows of the past. Over the entrance appears the
Inscription, "This building was erected in the year
1902 in memory of Elder William Goodwin, one of
the Hadley pioneers, by his descendant John Dwight,
and other friends and citizens of the town,"
The death of Elder Goodwin gave Parson Russell
and the Hon. Peter Tilton each a chance to exercise
his individuality in the management of school affairs,
which soon became complicated by the outbreak of
the Indian war. Being far beyond the stockade, the
school mill was for two years protected by a small

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 85
garrison until, one dark night in 1677, the people of
Hadley saw the northern sky illumined by flames, and
knew that the greater part of the school possessions
were no more. Part of the mill-dam remained, but
while the woods were lurking places for the enemy
the town considered it useless to rebuild the mill, so
the farmers again carried their grain to Hatfield, and the
mill site was deserted. These were gloomy days for
the Hopkins school, and Parson Russell must have
seen his cherished vision of a flourishing classical
institution and even of a college fade In the distance.
But still he and his colleagues kept stout hearts, and
faced the situation, not knowing that worse was yet to
come, Robert Boltwood, an influential Hadley pioneer, cast
longing glances at the water power going to waste at
the ruined dam of the school mill, and taking advantage
of the decUne of grammar school interest among the
people boldly declared he was not afraid of Indians,
and offered the town £10 for the site and remains of
the dam. The bargain was completed, and in 1678
Boltwood built his mill, and equipped it with mill
stones of red sandstone brought from the brow of
Mt. Tom, We can imagine the disappointment of
Parson Russell at this action, and his indignation at
the prevailing indifference toward the classical course
in the school. The Hopkins money had been put into
the mill, and the mill was burned. The remainder of

86 Historic Hadley
the school funds having been given by Hadley people,
and their desire being to have an English school, the
matter seemed practically settled, March 30, 1680,
Parson Russell called the attention of the county court
to "the languishing estate of the school," His plea
that the mUl ought to belong to the school was pre
sented with so much eloquence that the court decided
that it should "not allow of so great a wrong," and
ordered that the town should pay Boltwood what he
had spent in rebuilding, and restore the mill to the
trustees. In 1682 the exchange had not been made. Philip
Smith had been elected to the board of trustees in the
place of his father, and to their future sorrow the
remaining trustees had chosen Samuel Partrigg in
the place of Peter Tilton, resigned. Russell and
Cooke, for the trustees, appeared in the Springfield
court and told the whole story, describing the lands
and moneys received, the moneys spent for cellar and
"craine" and chimney and oven and house over mill
and "Damm," the income of £26 a year derived from
the mill, and the tragic manner in which their grammar
school had vanished into thin air. Samuel Partrigg,
a man of great wealth and influence, favored the English
school. With this disaffection within the board itself
the case was hard indeed! Parson Russell pleaded,
and wrote letters, and urged the matter until even his
courage failed. Some question of title stood In the

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 87
way, and matters rested there. In 1683 Robert Bolt-
wood agreed to give up the mill for £138 in grain and
pork. Then Robert died and Samuel his son would
not fulfil his father's bargain.
Parties of influence outside of Hadley felt much
sympathy for Parson Russell as he thus battled almost
alone for the classical school so dear to his heart.
October, 1686, John Pynchon, in a letter to Mr.
Russell, said:
"I am hartily sorry Mr. Partrigg is so cross in ye
businesse of the school." "Nothing will be done as
it ought to be until he be removed, wh I suppose
the Predt and Council may do." "Mr. Tilton fully
falling in with him, is as full and strong in all his
notions as Mr. P. himself." "Mr. Tilton said it
would kindle such a flame yt would not be quenched.
But if to do right and secure public wright kindle a
flame, the wiU of the Ld. be done."
November 19, 1686, a town-meeting was called in
Hadley, "when the sun was a quarter of an hour high,"
to consider school matters. Captain Aaron Cooke and
Joseph Hawley, sent to examine Into the school situa
tion, after wearisome waiting, received from Tilton
and Partrigg, a committee from the town, a report that
there was "no complaint." Then the school com
mittee appeared, and Parson Russell, quoting scripture,
gave seven long reasons why the school moneys must
be used for a grammar school. Partrigg in reply also

88 Historic Hadley
quoted scripture and said, "He that can teach Gram
mar is surely better fitted to teach English than he
that hath no Grammar in him."
Finally the town committee clinched the argument
by declaring that an English school must as a matter
of fact be a grammar school. The council dismissed
Mr. Partrigg, and a committee of arbitration decided
that Samuel Boltwood should be paid for what he and
his father had expended for the mill, and that the
property should be deUvered to the trustees of the
Hopkins fund "for the maintenance of the school to
which it belongs." The last clause was open to almost
any construction, and a paper passed through the town
for signatures disclosed the fact that only eleven men
and one woman beUeved that the school in question
should be a grammar school Instead of an EngUsh
school. But the hard-fought battle for the continuance of
classical instruction in Hadley was won, and the mill
passed into the hands of the trustees, who used the
income for the grammar school until the great flood
of 1692 swept the whole structure away down the
stream. The mill was presently rebuilt, and for a
time John Clary was the miller, and after him Joseph
Smith and his son Benjamin, and grandsons Erastus,
Caleb, and Benjamin. The rent was used for the
support of the school, which throughout the quarrel
had kept up its regular sessions.

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 89
In 1720 the school committee, as the board of
trustees was now called, consisted of Chileab Smith,
Thomas Hovey, Samuel Porter, Sergt. Joseph Smith,
and Deacon John Smith. In 1733 the record states:
"We the subscribers. Lieutenant Westwood Cooke,
Lieut. John Smith, and Eleazer Porter of the Scool
Commltty in Hadley have made Choyce of Deacon
Samuel Dickinson to serve as a committy man in the
room and sted of Lieut. Thomas Hovey, one of the
scool Committy, he being aged and crazy and declines
the service any longer. And we have also made
Choyce of Mr. Job Marsh to serve as a Committy man
in the room and sted of Mr, Joseph Smith, one of our
late scool committy men now deceast."
Thus one by one the older members of the
school committee dropped away and their successors
were chosen by those who still remained, Moses
Cooke, Deacon Joseph Eastman, "Ensine" Moses
Marsh, Deacon Enos Nash, Samuel Gaylord, David
Smith, EUsha Porter, Edmund Hubbard, Charles
Phelps, OUver Smith, Enos Nash, and Elisha Dickinson
each took his tum in looking after the interests of the
Hopkins grammar school. Sometimes the committee
lent the town the money to pay the teacher, so that it
seemed a little doubtful by whom he was engaged, but
so long as he continued to teach the " Latin Accidence "
it made but Uttle difference.
In 1743 the school committee, Eleazer Porter,

90 Historic Hadley
Westwood Cooke, John Smith, Samuel Dickinson,
and Job Marsh, engaged Josiah Pierce of Woburn, a
graduate of Harvard in 1735, to teach the Hopkins
school, and unlike the short terms of his predecessors,
his administration lasted until 1755. His home was
on the present site of the church and town hall. His
salary of £27^ a year, with the use of twenty-five acres
of land, and a pittance gained by serving as town
clerk, kept his family In comfort. Although not a
minister he occasionally suppUed a pulpit, for which
he received ten shilUngs a Sunday. The entries in his
interleaved almanac have given us many facts about
those old school days in Hadley. Somehow the select
men lost their grip upon both pupils and parents, for
Mr. Pierce had sometimes five and sometimes thirty
scholars in his school, and children came or not as they
and their parents pleased. One day the record reads,
"No school because no scholars sent." November
19, 1742, we find this entry:
"This day being the day before Thanksgiving I
keep school all day as I have heretofore, willing to
attend; if parents will let their children attend; but
they the most of them, letting their children play
about the streets rather than send them to school, I
determine not to attend ye school in y-e afternoon of
such day hereafter."
After twelve years of service Mr. Pierce left Hadley
to teach in Northampton and South Hadley, but in

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 91
1760 he returned and was again for six years the teacher
of the grammar school. Afterwards he kept a "cy
phering school" in Amherst until obliged to close it
for want of wood. This veteran school teacher knew
some things beside the lore of books, for in 1763 he
showed the Hadley farmers how to raise a new crop,
that of potatoes, red in color and not at first considered
as fit to be eaten. Eight bushels of this queer sort of
"root" Josiah Pierce put into his cellar that first
winter, and three years later his crop was sixty bushels.
After a time he seems to have found raising potatoes
more profitable than drilling Latin verbs into the minds
of stupid scholars, for we see him no more in the school
room, and three hundred bushels of potatoes produced
upon his land in 1769 supplied the whole town, Josiah
Pierce died in 1788, having made his record not only
as a teacher of the dead languages but also as an
agriculturist far in advance of his time.
The first day of the new year, 1816, was memorable
in Hadley, In a town-meeting held that morning it
was voted to ask the General Court that the Hopkins
fund should be devoted to the maintenance of an
academy for the benefit not only of Hadley but of the
surrounding towns as well. This petition was granted.
The people were now united in their desire for a pre
paratory school, and the wisdom of Parson Russell's
policy was vindicated by the descendants of those who
fought so bitterly against it. The trustees of the

92 Historic Hadley
grammar school, Seth Smith, WiUiam Porter, Jacob
Smith, William Dickinson, and Moses Porter, after
the incorporation of the academy was complete, chose
Rev. Dan Huntington, Rev. John Woodbridge, Rev.
Joseph Lyman, and Isaac C. Bates as additional
members of the board, and began to make plans for
a new academy building. Part of the home lot of
Chester Gaylord was secured as a site. Many persons
contributed building material, suppUes, and labor, and
others gave from fifty to eighty cents in money, and so
the work went on. Another year saw a fine three-
storied brick building on the site of the academy
building of to-day. It was an elegant structure for a
rural town, and people came to see it from all the
country round. Its entire cost was $4,954.90. De
cember 9, 1817, the new building was dedicated.
Rev. Joseph Lyman of Hatfield made the prayer, and
Rev. John Woodbridge preached the sermon from the
text, "And thou shalt teach them diligently unto thy
children," The first school session in the new building
was held September 10, 1817, with Rev. Dan Hunt
ington, preceptor, Giles Crouch Kellogg and Miss
Sophia Moseley, assistants. The next year Mr. Hunt
ington received $500 salary, Mr. KeUogg $20 a month,
and Miss Sally WiUiston $12 a month and board.
The new school building fronted on the middle lane,
and the main entrance opened at first directly upon
the sidewalk, but soon the trustees were allowed to

Hopkms Grammar School and Academy 93
enclose part of the lane for a school-yard. Two class
rooms occupied the lower floor, and five rooms, used
for recitations and to contain scientific apparatus and
the beginning of a library, occupied the second floor.
The spacious third story, known as Academy Hall,
was the pride of the town. At the east end, on the
stage four feet above the floor, embryo orators spouted
poetry, and read compositions at the Wednesday after
noon rhetorical exercises, to the edification of admiring
friends. Here debates were held on abstruse subjects,
exhibitions were given, lecturers spoke words of wis
dom, and diplomas were awarded to those who had
attained a "ripeness and dexteritie" in all sorts of
learning. Truly the days of prosperity for classical
education, so fondly dreamed of by Parson Russell,
were at last reaUzed by Hopkins Academy, the daughter
of the grammar school.
The funds In the hands of the academy trustees, the
year the school was opened, were increased by a grant
from the General Court of half a township in Maine,
which was sold, the proceeds being turned into the
school treasury. The academy prospered greatly,
ninety-nine students, sixty-five from Hadley, being
enrolled the second year. Tuition was from three
dollars to three dollars and a half a quarter, and board,
including room rent and washing, was one dollar and
a half a week. Those whose necessities required it
found work to help defray their expenses. All pupils

94 Historic Hadley
were compelled to attend church and prayer meeting
and the Bible was a most Important text-book. Mr.
Huntington was the preceptor until 1821. Other pre
ceptors were Rev. Worthington Smith, D.D., afterward
the president of the University of Vermont, Oliver S.
Taylor, who died In 1885 aged one hundred years.
Rev. John A, Nash, who came to Amherst and estab
lished Nash's school, George Nichols, afterward rector
of Hopkins' Grammar School in New Haven, Timothy
Dwight, of the class of 1827 in Amherst College, and
Rev, Ezekiel RusseU, D,D., Amherst CoUege, 1829,
who became pastor of Olivet Church, Springfield,
In the early days of Hopkins Academy four of the
principals each found a wife among the assistant
teachers. In 1831 one hundred and fifty young men
and one hundred and twenty-one young women were
enrolled among the students, one hundred and forty-
eight of these being from out of town. The fame of
the academy extended west and south, and pupils
from Ohio, Georgia, Virginia, Alabama, and Florida
entered to prepare for college. In 1831 the question
arose as to the rights of the trustees to allow the benefits
of the school to extend to so many outside of the town,
and the matter was taken into court and decided in
favor of the trustees. As free high schools became
common, academies everywhere declined, and the insti
tution in Hadley suffered with the rest. Finally In
1851 began the last controversy about the Hopkins

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 95
fund, when in town-meeting Samuel Nash, Esq,, Dr.
Bonney, and P, S. WilUams, Esq., were appointed a
committee to see if the school could not be made free
to the town. Year after year the matter was brought
up, discussed, and left undecided. The trustees claimed
that "the town has no more exclusive rights to the
funds of the Hopkins Academy than to those of any
other literary institution," and that " the trustees believe
that it is the best for all concerned that the charter of
our academy remain unmolested." At last in 1860
fate seemed against the trustees, for the academy
building, on which no insurance had been placed, was
destroyed by fire.
Then came the opportunity of the town. March 26,
1860, It was voted:
"Whereas, in the Providence of God, the Academy
building has been destroyed by fire and thereby a
favorable opportunity presented to the town for an
effort to make available to all the Inhabitants of the
town the benefits of the school fund which was given by
the town and by benevolent individuals for the promotion
and advancement of learning; therefore, voted; that the
town wiU erect a building suitable for the accomoda
tion of a Free High School, provided the trustees will
enter into an arrangement and agreement with the
town that they will appropriate the annual Income of
the fund to aid in support of such school."
The trustees, though at a disadvantage, were still
loth to give up their charter, and clung to the name

96 Historic Hadley
"Hopkins Academy." When finally overpersuaded,
they insisted that the new high school should be built
on the site of the old academy. The town objected, and
a board of arbitration, to which the matter was submit
ted, stood five to five, and there the matter rested.
For two years school was kept in the basement of
the church. In 1862 Levi Stockbridge, Horace Cook,
and Theodore Huntington were added to the board of
trustees, and the offer was made that If the town
would pay $300, the school should be free to Hadley
pupils for one year. This proposition was accepted,
and five years after the first vote was taken the subject
of a high school building was again cautiously intro
duced, and at last It was voted to place It on the site of
the old academy. The triumph of the trustees was
thus made complete. Hopkins Academy of ancient
lineage was thenceforth to be a school free to all pupils
of the town able to meet the entrance requirements.
During these years the school meadows had been
gathering Hatfield soil washed over by the river, which
made a new channel and thus created an Island. This
finally was added to the mainland, and thus the sixty
acres first given by the town became in 1844 a hundred
and fifty-eight acres, which the trustees were granted
leave to sell, thereby Increasing the fund to $57,325.
The mill privilege at North Hadley was sold to L. N.
Granger for $300. The trustees In 1890 owned ten
acres of land on Mount Holyoke, eleven In Hockanum

Hopkins Grammar School and Academy 97
Meadow, four and a half in Aqua Vitse Meadow, five
In the Great Upper Landing, two in the Great Lower
Landing, besides sundry Investments In stocks and
mortgages. Many graduates of this famous old academy have
preached the gospel throughout the earth. Jeremiah
Porter was a home missionary on the western frontier,
EUjah C, Bridgman and James G. Bridgman carried
the good news to China. Dyer Ball went out to Sin
gapore, John Dunbar was a teacher among the
Pawnee Indians. Dwight W. Marsh and Lyman
Bartlett were sent to Turkey, and Henry M, Bridgman
was a pioneer missionary in South Africa. A long Ust
of ministers, thirty doctors, twenty-five lawyers, are
Included In the roll of honor. Among the eminent
educators we find WilUam D. Whitney of Yale, Levi
Stockbridge, president of the agricultural college at
Amherst, Professor Richard H. Mather of Amherst
College, President L. Clark Seelye of Smith CoUege.
Thirty-eight ministers secured their wives among the
Hopkins alumni, and In this list we find Miss Eunice
BuHard, who married Henry Ward Beecher. Major
General Joseph Hooker and General Joseph B. Plum-
mer are among those educated In the Hopkins school
who served their country in the civil war. Verily old
Parson Russell and his colleagues who established and
maintained the integrity of the grammar school in
Hadley builded better than they knew.

CHAPTER V
THE WEALTH OF THE EIYEB AND THE FEETILE
MEADOWS
Fae up among the northern hills the brimming
waters of two crystal fountains united In a tiny rivulet,
which trickled southward toward the sea. "Heart
Lake" and "Double Lake" through which It passed
paid tribute, and four rippling mountain brooks has
tened to swell the stream. Now dashing over rocks
and boulders, now broken Into roaring cataracts, now
flowing in a somber sheet within the shadow of rugged
mountain peaks, with steady persistence the river
shaped its course. Salmon and sturgeon leaped amid
its rapids, and wild birds skimmed its shining surface.
Flocks of pigeons, pausing in their flight, whitened the
shores, and timid deer drank undisturbed the clear
and sparkUng waters. Beside the river, all along the
way, solemn pine forests guarded curve and shallow,
while single trees on bank and hilltop kept untiring
watch. The summer breeze blew softly through these
dark woods, and tiny blossoms peeped timidly up
through crevices in the brown carpet of dry pine
needles. No sign of civilization marred the freshness

The Connecticut River and the Meadow Plain
Looking North from the Railroad

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 99
of the picture. The native hunter as he glided in his
light canoe from shore to shore seemed closely akin to
the creatures of the woods and waters. This undis
covered country was the red man's heritage and his
ancestral home.
The Indians christened their river "Quinnetuk," the
long river with waves. "Quonektacut" was appUed
In later years to Include both the stream and the land
along its shores. The Uttle rill from the north, its
tortuous joumey over, found at last Its outlet, and
four hundred miles from Its source poured a mighty
flood into Long Island Sound. In place of mountain
cliff and rocky headland, pebbly beaches and sloping
grassy banks and open meadow lands added new
beauty to the smiling landscape. But still the dark
pine forests, untouched by woodman's ax, crowned
every eminence, and clung persistently wherever they
could find a foothold. Therefore the Indian added
to the harsh word "Quonektacut" the poetic title
"River of Pines." This name has long since been
forgotten. The grim and gloomy pines which gave
the words their meaning disappeared before the settlers'
rude attack, and the river Indians themselves vanished
to make way for the colonist and his civilization, A
few dry bones and arrow heads are all that remain of
these ancient owners of the Connecticut valley. The
romance of the river has departed and its tale Is still
untold.

100 Historic Hadley
This historic stream was a most Important factor In
the settlement of the valley towns. When Indian trails
were the only traveled paths and highways were un
known, this natural waterway formed a connecting
link between the isolated villages by means of which
they were kept In touch with each other and In com
munication with the outside world. The founders of
Hadley knew the river as a somewhat fickle friend,
which in its angry moods proved a serious menace to
all within Its reach. In early spring the frozen highway
was suddenly transformed into a roaring torrent, A
moving Ice floe from the north swept down with
irresistible force and miniature icebergs ground against
each other with savage fury and were pounded to
fragments among the rocks and rapids. Then, a
mighty flood, the swollen river spread far over the
meadows, and, receding, left a deposit of rich soil
which would produce a bountiful yield of hay and
grain. The colonist loved his river In aU Its moods.
He built his house where, from the open door, he
could discern Its shining surface. In time of inunda
tion he kept his canoe fastened to the door-post, and
until the water entered the dwelling refused to leave
his home. When he discovered that the fickle stream
by cutting through a neck of land had In a night
removed a portion of his estate to a neighboring town,
still with an unconquered spirit the valley farmer met
these new conditions, subdued the forces of nature

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 101
and taught them to become his servants, refused to be
driven from the land of his adoption, and is buried
to-day beside the river in the beautiful valley where he
delighted to dwell.
The Hadley housewife found the river a means of
supplying her larder when other sources failed. Game
became scarce upon the mountains and in 1698 the
State enacted laws for the protection of deer. In 1740
Westwood Cooke, Samuel Rugg, and John Nash served
Hadley as "Deer Reeves," and received for the detec
tion of each guilty hunter half the fine Imposed for
kilUng game contrary to law. Even wild turkeys
finally disappeared, but fish was always plentiful and
free to all alike. So every Hadley farmer became a
fisherman, and seine and scoop-net his implements of
toil. The first settlers found shad and salmon In
abundance. Believing that things of value were only
to be secured by means of time and labor, for many
years the citizens cared little for the food so easily
obtained and were ashamed when caught with fish
upon their tables. Pork was their medium of exchange,
and to be eating fish impUed a scarcity of pork and a
state of poverty to be deplored. Then salmon were
taken Into favor, and shad, when scooped by mistake,
were thrown back into the river. After many years
the fashion changed and shad became a favorite food
and salmon were discarded. One old Hadley resident
who had the courage to declare that shad are very

102 Historic Hadley
good whether one has any pork or not was said to
have a "very peculiar taste." But whatever the
opinion, when game became scarce the people were
thankful to take the food provided without question or
complaint. The thought that fish could be worth
money did not at first enter their minds, and there has
been found no record of the sale of shad before 1733.
In 1715 the General Court made an additional grant
of a tract of land four miles square to the township of
Hadley, so that the town should thereafter Include
within its limits what is now South Hadley and South
Hadley Falls and control the fishing privilege at the
"Greate Falls" on the east side of the river. Three
other excellent fishing places, one below the mouth of
Mill River, one a little east of the southern end of the
same river, and another near Hockanum Meadow,
belonged especially to Hadley. Forty salmon, weigh
ing between thirty and forty pounds each, were caught
in one day near the second of these places, and here
Enos Lyman took three thousand one hundred and
forty fish in one prodigious haul. Josiah Pierce and
six other Hadley men owned a seine together in 1766,
and sold shad for a penny apiece. The first dam at
South Hadley Falls made it difficult for the salmon to
ascend the river, so that after 1800 few were caught In
the upper stream.
The settlers, having learned from the Indians their
method of taking fish from the rocks at the "Greate

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 103
FaUs," devised Improvements as facilities Increased.
Each spring time crowds of men and boys hastened
to this famous fishing place to gather In the bounty of
the river. The first of May became a sort of picnic
season, anticipated through the long winter by those
to whom vacations were unknown. Life was one
tedious work day of interminable hours, so that the
youth of Hadley hailed with joy an excuse for anything
like recreation. With the approach of the shad season
nets and other fishing implements were repaired, and
all was made ready for the great event of the year.
When April showers had melted the snows which had
made the roads impassable, a straggling procession
climbed the hills and struggled through the mud with
all faces tumed toward the " Greate Falls." Here
were men on horseback with bags in which to load
their fish, and here a farmer rode in his cart, and
again a horseman led another horse provided to
carry the load. Many brought provisions intending to
camp upon the river bank, and others sought accom
modation In homes along the way. Hadley inns thus
became crowded, and private houses were filled with
guests. From the middle of April until toward the
first of June all Hampshire County went a fishing.
Fifteen hundred horses were sometimes tied to the
trees in the vicinity of the Falls, where their owners
were either buying or catching fish. Below the Falls
men were drawing in the seines, and from boats fas-

104 Historic Hadley
tened to the rocks were taking in the shad with scoop-
nets, while others were spearing sturgeon or making
bargains with those who came to buy. At nightfall
Hadley fishermen hastened homeward, but others from
a distance camped beside the falls, and after dark, by
the light of flaring torches, caught great lamprey eels
which in the hill towns were much esteemed for food.
Frolicsome boys enjoyed the sport of wading In the
water after dark, and by the flaring torchUght, with
the hand protected by a coarse yam mitten, picked up
the eels and carried them to the shore. Light and
trifling youngsters spent the evening in wrestUng and
trials of skill, with glasses of rum for refreshment, but
such sports were few and were frowned upon severely.
After the flshing season fresh fish were daily on the
family table, and quantities were cured for winter use,
until, for self -protection, hired men, in making a contract,
stipulated that they should be obliged to eat only
a certain amount of salted shad.
Next to the fisheries, after the Revolution, lumbering
became of great Importance to the valley towns. All
along the shore new villages were springing up, and
with the progress of civilization came the downfall of
the forests. After the peace with the Indians in 1726,
great logs of pine, cut in the far north by a company
of Connecticut and Massachusetts men, floated down
the river on the way to the king's contractor In Boston,
who purchased them for the masts of British vessels.

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 105
Agents of the king in every town kept watch and seized
all logs of the required size, claiming them by virtue
of the "Pine Tree Laws," which were very offensive
to the people. After the Revolution pine trees were cut
and sent to market without restriction. Timber was
by this time scarce in Hadley, and tradition says that
more than once logs which lodged in a farmer's door
yard were built into his new house with the excuse
that being on his land they were his property. Many
difficulties arose between the lumbermen and farmers,
the former bringing suit against the latter for stopping
their logs, and the latter making complaint for the
damage done to their meadows. Rafting was found
to be more practicable than floating single logs, and
often in the spring the river would be full of rafts,
propelled by ponderous oars. With creak and groan
and shouts of warning from the oarsmen, the great
flotilla, laden with shingles and clapboards, swept on
with the grandeur of an army corps, waking the echoes
from the mountain sides, and calling the inhabitants
to see the wondrous sight. The life of the lumberman
was a series of adventures. Embarking near the head
waters of the stream, exposed to storm and stress of
weather, floating past forests infested by wild beasts,
tossing through rapids and wedged between gf eat rocks
and stranded in sand and shallows, he shaped his
tortuous course, and by skilful steering reached at
last the haven of his hopes. Rafts of boards could

106 Historic Hadley
thus be transported over the falls, but sawed lumber
had to be carted, so in 1765 the " Lumber Road " was
built, two and a half miles in length, from above the
falls to the landing below the rapids. Near this road,
in the Falls Field and Falls Wood, were three saw
mills and a tavern kept by Titus Pomeroy, and after
ward there was another, the property of Daniel Lamb,
The farmers of the vicinity, changing their occupation,
became carriers of lumber, and the Hadley landing-
place, taken from John Chapin's farm, was a scene of
great activity.
The island which had formed below Fort Meadow,
not belonging to any one, was observed with envious
eyes. One season the grass was cut by a Hadley
citizen named Brooks, and when he came to get his
hay, behold it was not there, being safely stowed away
in the barn of Nathaniel Day across the river. In
1770 the General Court sold the island to Solomon
Stoddard, who made a bargain for half of it with
Noah Edwards, and in 1803 Levi Shepherd bought the
whole of it for $1,200.
Commerce and articles of exchange increased, and
the Hadley farmer, not satisfled to raft and cart his
shingles, loading and unloading at much expense of
time and labor, felt that the problem of more rapid
river transportation must at once be solved. Though
at intervals great rocks and rapids threatened destruc
tion to any who attempted passage, and shoals and

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 107
shallows wrought daily changes in the channel, never
theless those sturdy pioneers, having subdued the
wilderness, were not to be discouraged by waterfalls
and sandbars. Vast projects for improvements shaped
themselves within the public mind and were expressed
through the public press.
By strenuous efforts the settlers had been able from
the first to carry on some traffic with their friends in
the upper valley, and thus secure many things needful
for their comfort. " Greate Canoes," laden with three
or four tons of "Flower" and "Porke" and beaver
skins, and managed by two men, were the first freight
boats to run the rapids, but the passage was both
difficult and dangerous. Then came the "Falls
Boats," a kind of shipping now extinct. These were
of two kinds: "Pine Boats," twenty-five tons burden,
with neither cabin nor floor, and " Oak Boats," which
were fltted up with comfortable accommodations for
the crew. The tiny cabin, lighted with four windows,
was warmed by a cook stove, and provided with four
bunks, which in the daytime were turned up against
the side of the boat. A mainmast, topmast, mainsail
and topsail, made it possible to take advantage of the
slightest wind, and there were two pairs of stout oars
with which, when breezes failed, the boat could be
moved along. Loaded with farm produce, shingles,
ash plank, furs, and fish, these unwieldy vessels would
move slowly down the river, assisted through the rapids

108 Historic Hadley
and over the falls by experienced pilots who lived
along the shore. How the boys and girls must have
shouted and the women have run to the doors to
see the Dispatch, or the Flying Fish, or the Clinton,
or the Vermont come saiUng bravely by! The name
of each vessel, painted outside Its cabin in large
black letters, was scanned with interest from the
shore, and many a farmer hailed the boatman to learn
the news from up the river, or ask for tfansportatlon
for something he had to sell.
Having no keel, these Falls Boats slipped over rocks
and sandbars and without much difficulty reached their
destination, delivered their cargoes, and were loaded
again with all the various goods in the country store
for use by the farmer and his family. Then came a
time of trial. All those weary miles the heavily laden
boat was poled up stream, with ash poles, assisted
sometimes by the wind but more often in a perfect calm.
Poling was the hardest work known and caused
much lameness and blistering of the skin In front of
the shoulder, for which a frequent application of rum
was a remedy. An old writer says, "It was also
thought well to take some inside." When the boat
reached the rapids in its progress up the stream, either
it was hitched to an ox team on shore, or several men
would take the place of oxen. Reaching smooth water,
and aided by a friendly breeze. It would dash onward
at the furious speed of five miles an hour toward the

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 109
next obstruction In the river. "Then," says the old
writer, " the heart of the boatman rejoiced within him
and the river bank echoed his songs of cheer, while the
tired husbandman stood still and Ustened as the song
and the voice passed by."
In 1792 the General Court passed an act incorpo
rating a company entitled, "The Proprietors of the
Locks and Canals on Connecticut River." Great
excitement prevailed at South Hadley Falls, where
the first attempt at digging a canal was made. Gun
powder was the only explosive known, and drilling was
done by the hands of men. Outside parties contributed
funds, and at last a dam was constructed, and the
work went slowly on. Two miles and a half through
soUd rock the channel for the canal was cut. The
water, flooding the adjacent meadows, produced fever
and ague and indignant citizens clamored for the
removal of the dam. Those interested in the fisheries
demanded a fishway that the shad might go up the
river to their spawning shoals. The "Proprietors,"
however, persisted in their undertaking. December,
1794, the work was so nearly completed that a day of
celebration was appointed, and many men and women
were allowed to ride in the great car up and down the
incUned plane. South Hadley Falls was now the most
interesting place in the Connecticut valley, and hun
dreds of sightseers came on horseback to view this
wonderful engineering feat, supposed to be of Immense

110 Historic Hadley
advantage to all engaged In transportation on the
river. Hadley had now completed its first century and was
a veteran among New England towns. The primitive
dwelUngs had been replaced by comfortable homes.
Double rows of English elms, the patriarchs of to-day,
planted on either side of the broad street, were growing
straight and taU. The fertile meadows bore yearly
their autumnal harvest of hay and grain. Wheat, rye,
and barley flourished on the uplands, and great fields
of Indian corn, that native product of the soil, fur
nished the farmer and his family with the hasty pudding
which was his staple food. Josiah Pierce had taught
his neighbors how to raise potatoes, but turnips were
Uked much better. The women made from flax the
cloth for garments, bed clothing, and table Unen, and,
adding wool to fiax, made Unsey-woolsey for dresses,
and to be exchanged for household utensils and im
ported stuff for gowns.
Levi Dickinson, a native of Wethersfield, who came
to Hadley In 1786 and settled on the "Back Street,"
brought with him a queer new kind of "com seed,"
which he showed his friends, saying that when fully
grown it would make better brooms than they had
ever seen. Hearing this, the Hadley housewife laughed
him to scorn. "Husk brooms," to sweep the ovens,
and "splinter brooms" made of birchen boughs, were
good enough for every day, while the bristle and hair

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 111
brooms, brought from England, certainly could not be
surpassed by a fanner with any kind of corn. Thus
reasoned the Incredulous and argued not the case.
Levi Dickinson, however, not discouraged, kept his own
council, harvested the first crop of broom com from
his garden, contrived a method of scraping the seed
from the brush, with a knife, and afterward with the
edge of a hoe, and sitting in a chair with the twine In
a roll under his feet wound It around the brush In his
lap and thus made brooms. Not asking his neighbors
to buy. In 1798 he peddled his brooms in Williamsburg,
Ashfield, and Conway, and said that the day when he
sold his first broom was the happiest day of his life.
In 1799 he carried brooms to Pittsfield and In 1800
as far as New London.
Then Hadley people began to reaUze that a new and
profitable Industry had been started in their midst.
Cato, a colored man, planted some broom com in the
meadow, and WilUam Shipman, Solomon Cooke, and
Levi Gale began to raise the corn and manufacture
brooms. Men in Hatfield and Whately went Into the
business, and Levi Dickinson, smiUng to himself, calmly
drove his teams loaded with brooms to Boston and to
Albany and found a ready market. Making his own
handles and spinning the twine from his own flax, the
cost of the broom was little and the demand for the
finished product was great. In 1810, 70,000 brooms
were made In Hampshire County, and before the death

112 Historic Hadley
of Levi Dickinson in 1843 people In all parts of the
country were using Hadley brooms, and his triumph
against local prejudice was complete. Broom com had
been cultivated for its seed In southern Europe, and a
small amount was raised In the southern states, but
the credit of planting it In large quantities and sup
plying the whole country with brooms belongs to Levi
Dickinson. In 1850 Eleazer Porter, who took the
census, reported forty-one broom factories and 769,700
brooms and 76,000 brushes produced In a single year
within the limits of the little town of Hadley.
The canal had served Its purpose In part when
steamboats began to be used for transportation,
and Hadley people were led to hope that they too
might have a share In the benefits of this marvel
ous Invention. The citizens longed and watched
and listened for the little towboat Barnet, built in
New York to ply upon the river. When, after many
failures to ascend Enfield Falls, she was hauled bodily
over the rocks and really appeared around Hockanum
Bend, propelled by the wondrous power of steam, the
people made a great rush to get on board the barge
which she had In tow, and thus secure a share In this
novel excursion. Then came the memorable flood,
when travelers were taken In boats from Hadley Street
across the meadows to Northampton, and buildings,
trunks of trees, ruins of mills, bridges and fences, hay,
pumpkins, apples, and cackling hens came dashing

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 113
down the stream to be landed along the shore. The
river Itself seemed to resent invasion by this puffing,
wheezing monster of steam and took revenge on all
within Its reach.
The steamer Vermont next started out from Hartford,
bound for the Green Mountain State. Her passengers
exclaimed with delight at the beauty of the scenery as
she passed within the shadow of Titan's Pier, where
columnar rocks rise high above the water's edge.
Here was the abode of Manitou, the Great Spirit,
and here two Indians were pursued and driven off
the cliff to find death In the unknown depths below.
Just beyond, to gain a few rods In distance, the
vessel was compelled to travel four miles through
the Ox Bow. The grandeur of those majestic moun
tains, valued chiefly as "woodlots" by farmers of the
valley. Impressed the strangers from the south, who
gazed with surprise at the primitive hotel, kept by
Willis Pease of Hadley, which, on the high summit
of Mount Holyoke, appeared against the glowing sky.
Past Stoddard's Island, over School Meadow Flats,
beneath the sandstone cliff of Sugar Loaf, toward
the green hills of her namesake state, steamed the
Vermont, creating the hope that passenger traffic on
the river had at last really commenced.
The summer of 1831 the steamboat William Hall
left Hadley for Hartford three times a week, connecting
with steamers for New York. Those were gala days

114 Historic Hadley
for Hadley, but alas, the fates seemed unpropitious,
and though many small steamboats were built and put
Into commission, yet the steamboat company failed,
boilers burst, the shoals and currents shifted, and
floods destroyed the work of years in a single night.
One wintry moming, February 25, 1840, the people of
Hockanum were surprised to find that the river had
worn away the neck of the peninsula and cut a new
channel for Itself, thus making an Island of three
hundred acres of land, owned by Hadley farmers and
worth thousands of dollars.
The reign of the steamboat could not be prolonged,
for the day of the railroad was near at hand. July 4,
1845, the steamer FrankUn left the wharf at Hadley,
with two hundred people on board, "from the beauty
and chivalry of West Street," bound for Montague.
There they passed the day, enjoyed a picnic dinner
with speeches and music, and returned In safety. This
Is the last we hear df steamboating at Hadley. That
same year the people, crossing the toll bridge, could
board the train behind the engine " Holyoke " and jolt
away toward Springfield and the south. Opponents
of the railroad became reconciled as Its usefulness In
carrying freight became understood. One enthusiast
even found the railroad picturesque, and viewing the
spring freshet from the tower of the church wrote
thus to the Hampshire Gazette:

Wealth of River and Fertile Meadows 115
"The swollen river lay spread out at our feet in
broad expanse, while scarce raised above the flood,
the long straight line of railroad extended, and the
ponderous train flying o'er it seemed like some huge
sea bird, skimming the yielding wave with tireless
wing." Years later the Boston & Maine Railroad, passing
through Hadley, connected Northampton with the
capital city of the state, and since then the trolley has
given Hadley citizens freedom to choose their ways
and means of travel. The "huge sea bird" of iron
and steam still flies over the "yielding wave" when
the river overflows Its meadows, but the river steamer
Is a thing of the past. The Pine Boats and Oak Boats,
the captains and pilots, are unknown to the present
generation. The scream of the locomotive echoes
from the mountain sides, and all along the shore the
trolley cars rush wildly seeking for their prey. The
romance of the river has departed, its quiet and seclu
sion are invaded, its great pine forests are destroyed.
Yet, unconquered, it takes its tortuous course, refusing
to be curbed. Impossible to control, declining to be
improved, a -wilful stream the same in nature as when
the white man first gazed upon its waters.
To-day, as summer travelers admire the beauties of
the Connecticut, the prosaic sunUght leaves little for
Imagination to feed upon. Yet, when beneath the
midnight moon all discordant sounds have for a

116 Historic Hadley
moment ceased, through the winding sheet of mist
which hovers over the river's surface we fancy we
catch the echoing dip of a shadowy paddle, and discern
a Ught canoe darting from shore to shore. The
unquiet ghost of some old Indian boatman has retumed
to haunt the valley and stream which were his ancient
heritage. Again the river banks are clothed with dark
pine forests, and from their depths the deer come
down to drink and aU is quiet sylvan beauty. The
River of Pines is again a reaUty. To him whose eyes
have been unsealed, for this magic moment the old
days have returned.

The Hadley Cemetery

CHAPTER VI
THE BUEIAL place OF HADLEY's HONOEED DEAD
Within the limits of the little river town, during the
long years of effort and accomplishment, there had
grown up another settlement, — the Hamlet of the
Dead. Here, in 1661, on the Meadow Plain, near the
home lot of Edward Church, the body of an unnamed
Infant of Philip Smith, grandchild of Lieutenant Sam
uel Smith, the first settler, was buried without prayer
or service. A few months later Govemor John Web
ster was In the same rude fashion, near the grave of
the nameless child, placed beneath the sod. This
was the beginning of Old Hadley cemetery, and here
¦within the area of two hundred and ten square rods of
rolling upland were buried for more than one hun
dred and thirty years aU who died In Hadley.
Some sort of stone must have been placed at the
grave of Govemor Webster, for when in 1812 Noah
Webster, his descendant In the fifth generation, came
to live in Amherst, he had no difficulty in finding the
resting-place of his distinguished ancestor, and erected
above the same a monument to his memory, that bears
the following words:

118 Historic Hadley
"To the memory of John Webster, Esq., one of the
first settlers of Hartford in Connecticut, who was many
years magistrate, or assistant and afterwards Deputy
Governor and Governor of the colony, and In 1659
with three sons, Robert, William and Thomas asso
ciated with others In the purchase and settlement of
Hadley, where he died In 1665."
The date here given, which Is four years later than
that given by the historian and genealogist, was prob
ably Indistinct upon the old stone, and therefore copied
incorrectly. This burial-place remained as Nature had left It
during all those early years. No attempt at improve
ment or formal laying out of grounds was made, but,
as overcome by disease, or slain by Indians, or worn to
death by hard and constant toil, the weary workers
ceased their labors, they were laid to rest beneath the
pines and cedars and the life of the town went on as
before. Nathaniel Ward, whose death occurred soon
after that of Governor Webster, left his empty house
a bequest to Hadley youth. John Hawkes and
Thomas Stanley were the next of the first settlers to
be carried on the shoulders of their fellow townsmen
to their last long home. John Barnard, Richard
Church, Stephen Terry, William Westwood, WilUam
Partrigg, and Andrew Bacon died In close succession,
and Thomas Coleman followed them In 1674. Henry
Clark, the patron of the Hopkins School, amid the

Burial Place of Hadley's Honored Dead 119
terrors of the first Indian war, was taken out by night
and left in the lonely cemetery. The next year Na
thaniel Dickinson, Joseph Baldwin, Thomas Wells,
and Richard Goodman, the latter killed by Indians
while viewing his fences, were escorted to the grave
yard by an armed guard and hastily interred. Parson
Russell was called upon, in 1689, to mourn the death
of his father, John Russell, Sr., and In 1681 the town
lost Richard Montague, the grave-digger whose services
as a baker for the soldiers when quartered in Hadley
had saved them from starvation. Lieutenant Samuel
Smith died In 1680, Andrew Warner and Robert
Boltwood In 1684, and Philip Smith In 1685 met his
death because of the practises of a witch, Samuel
Porter, a strong supporter of the church, in 1698
rested from his labors in its behalf, and with Samuel
Moody was laid beside his colleagues. One by one
the old "engagers," Francis Barnard, Peter Tilton,
William Markham, Timothy Nash, and Parson Russell
himself, gave up their toils and struggles, until the close
of the century found only Joseph Kellogg and John
Hubbard living of those who built the first Uttle homes
on the broad street. A few years later every one of
that valiant company except John White, William
Lewis, John Marsh, William Goodwin, and John Crow,
who had removed to other towns, were inhabitants of
that silent settlement where wars and tumult were
unknown.

120 Historic Hadley
No costly marble monuments mark the graves of
those old first settlers, for they died in the midst of
troubled times when care for the living was more
Important than unnecessary expense for the dead. A
few rude gravestones were erected, some with figures
carved upon their surfaces, and inscriptions which
moss has overgrown and time obliterated. Slate stones
were set up for those who died In later years, and after
1800 marble slabs were placed to mark the resting-
places of those ancient worthies whose lives were their
best monument. Many slaves were also burled in the
old cemetery, but the rough stones on which were cut
their names and virtues have long since crumbled
away. No hearse was owned in Hadley until 1826.
The path through the home lot of Edward Church
was worn and beaten by the feet of the bearers as they
passed in slow procession with the bier upon their
shoulders to the place of burial. The minister stood
among the neighbors who gathered round the grave,
but no word was said and no prayers offered. Such
were the funeral fashions of the fathers in colonial days.
The graves of three Hadley pioneers. Captain
Aaron Cooke, Chileab Smith, and John Ingram, are
marked with ancient headstones. The stone at the
grave of Dr. John Westcarr, who died In 1675, seems
to have been placed In position many years after
his death. The old historian states that in 1858 there
were only ten stones in the yard with dates earUer than

Burial Place of Hadley's Honored Dead 121
1720, and on many of these the Inscription is now
entirely obUterated. The oldest monuments in the
cemetery are the sandstone tables erected in 1692 to
the memory of Parson Russell and his wife, Rebekah.
The inscription on the first, which Is fully legible,
reads as follows:
EEV RUSSELL's EEMAINS WHO FIEST GATH
ERED AND FOR 33 YEARS FAITHFULLY
GOVEENED THE FLOCK OF CHRIST IN
HADLEY TIL THE CHEIF SHEPHEED SUD
DENLY BUT MEECIFULLY CALLED HIM OFF
TO BECEIVE HIS BEWARD IN THE 66 YEAR
OF HIS AGE, DECEMBEE 10, 1692.
The words above Rebekah declare:
EEBEKAH MADE BY GOD MEIT HELP TO
ME JOHN EUSSELL AND FELLOW LABOEEE
IN Christ's work, a wise vertuous
PIOUS MOTHER IN ISEAEL LYES HEEE IN
ASSURANCE OF A JOYFUL RESURRECTION.
SHE DIED IN THE 57 YEAR OP HER AGE,
NOVEMBER 21, 1688.
The graves of Rev. Isaac Chauncey and of Rev.
Chester WiUiams are marked by upright sandstones,
while a marble monument points out the place where
Ues Rev, Samuel Hopkins, Each of these stones bears
an appropriate Inscription describing the life and

122 Historic Hadley
character of him who Is buried beneath the stone.
The cemetery was enlarged In 1828 and covers at
present about four acres. Here, during all the years
of its eventful history, the descendants of the first
"engagers" have one by one returned to lay their
friends and relatives by the side of the common ances
tors, the founders of the town. Here is the newly
made grave of Bishop Frederic D. Huntington, an
Illustrious son of Hadley, and every famous name of
the old-time pioneers Is repeated again and again on
ancient and modem headstones.
No need Is there to recite or emphasize the heroic
deeds of each calm sleeper. The story Is written in
the history of the land which their sons and daughters
have peopled with a race of men and women worthy
of their sires.

INDEX

INDEX

Allis, William 4, 79
Amherst 50, 53, 91, 117
Amherst College 71, 94
Angel of Hadley, The 27
Army from Connecticut, The, 34
Ashfield 111
Attack on Hadley, The 36
Austin, Rev, Samuel 61
Ayres [Rev,] Roland 72

Bonney, Dr. gg
Boston, Joshua 48
Bradstreet, Simon 40
Branford lo
Breck, Rev, Robert 54
Bridgman, Elijah C, 97
Henry M. 97
James G. 97
Brown, Rev. John 72
Broom Industry, The 110
Burgoyne, General 64, 65

B
Bacon, Andrew 15, 118
Baldwin, Joseph 16, 119
Ball, Dyer 97
Baqjard, Francis 16, 28, 119

•''John

78. 118

John, 2nd,

15, 16, 28

Joseph

21

Samuel

42,45

Barnet, The

112

Barnstable

10

Bartlett, Daniel

66

Lyman

97

Bates, Isaac C

92

Bayne, Rev. J, S,

72

Beaman, Rev, Warren H, 72
Beecher, Henry Ward 97
Beers, Captain 25
Belding Samuel 4
Billing, Richard 4
Bloody Brook 28
Boardman, Rev. Daniel 81
Boltwood, Robert 16, 85, 119
Samuel 88

Chapin, John 106
Church, Benjamin 55
Edward 16, 117, 120
Richard 16, 42, 43, 118
Chauncey, Rev. Charles 41
Rev. Isaac 40, 43, 49, 121
Israel 53, 81
Nathaniel 81
Richard 50
Clark, Henry 16. 78, 118
William 12
Clary, John 88
Clinton, The 108
Coleman, John 4
Thomas 15, 118
Colt, Benjamin 62
Commissioners of the New
England Colonies 28
Conway 111
Cook, Horace 96
Cooke, Aaron 10, 15, 31, 43,
46, 78, 87, 120

126

Index

Cooke, Aaron, Jr.

25

Edwards, Jonathan 56

, 57, 63

Moses

55, 89

Noah

106

Noah

63
Emmons, Rev, Nathaniel 61
Solomon
111
Enfield FaUs
112
Westwood 55,
89,
90, 101
Essex, England
8
Cowls, John
4, 62
Crow, John 16,
33,
84, 119
Cullick, John
77
F
Falls Boats
107
D
Falls Fight, The
Fellows, Richard
32, 33 4
Danforth, Francis
72
Field, Zachariah
4
Davenport, John
77
Flying Fish, The
108
Dedham
81
Franklin, The
114
Deerfield
32
1, 53, 81
Dickinson, Azariah
26
Benjamin
81
G
Elijah
69
Elisha
68, 89
Gale, Levi
111
Hezekiah
44
Gardner, Samuel
16
John
15,32
Gay, Ebenezer
81
Le\'i
110, 111
Gaylord, Chester
92
Nathaniel 2, 4, f
i, 12
, 14, 26,
Nehemiah
66
78,
79, 119
Samuel
56, 89
Nathaniel, Jr,
4
Goffe, General WUliam
23, 31
Nehemiah
45
Goodman, James
55
Reuben
50
John
15
Samuel
4
Richard 2,5,
15,30,44,119
Samuel, Dea,
89,90
Goodwin, William
11,
16, 77,
Simeon
81
78,
82, 119
Thomas
14
Grannis, Edward
21
William
92
Graves, Isaac
4, 12
Dispatch, The
108
John,
4
Dimbar, John
97
Thomas
4
Dwight, Daniel
81
John
84
Timothy
94
H
Pres, Timothy
70
Dwight Memorial Library 84
Hampshire Troop,
The
25
E
Eastman, Joseph 89
Eaton, Gov. TheophUus 75, 77
Harrison, Isaac
Hartford 1, 3, 4, 8, 31, 44, 76,
78, 81, 113
Harvard CoUege 9, 41, 53, 79,
81, 90
Index

127

Harvard, John

75

KeUogg, Joseph, Jr,

37, 55

Hatfield 4, 25, 26, 32,

54, 67,

Kelsey, Seymour

66

81, 92,

96, 111

King Philip

24,

, 28, 36

Hawkes, Gershom

36, 37

John
16, 118
Hawley, Joseph
43, 87
L
Hooker, Rev,
61
General Joseph
Hopkins, Gov, Edward
97
Lake George, Battle of
59
75,76
Lamb, Daniel
106
John
69
Lewis, William
2,
15, 119
Rev, Samuel 54, 57
, 60, 67,
Lincoln, General
67
69, 121
Locke, Dr. William
34
Hopkins Academy
96
Longmeadow
57
Hopkins Fund, The
78, 95
Lothrop, Captain
25
, 28, 34
Hopkins Grammar School 79
Lyman, Enos
102
Hovey, Thomas
89
Israel
68
Hubbard, Edmund
62, 89
Rev. Joseph
67
, 70, 92
John 12, 15,
81, 119
Phineas
62
.Joseph
55
Humphrey, President
71
Hunt, Ebenezer
70
M
Huntington, Rev, Dan
59, 92
Rev, Frederic Dan
59, 122
Magnalia, The
38
Theodore
96
Markham, William
Marsh, Daniel
Dwight,
3,
16, 119
45, 5597
I
Ebenezer,
55, 62
Job
55
, 89, 90
Indian Fort, The
5, 79
John
3,
16, 119
Ingram, John
16, 120
Jonathan
46, 81
Moses 55, 62,
63,
66, 67, 89
J
Martin, Rev, Benjamin
72
Mather, Cotton
38
James, John
81
Nathaniel Prof. Richard H
Warham
Meekins, Thomas
81 97
81
4, 12
K
Montague, Peter
45
Richard 7, 15,
20,
34, 119
Keedy, Rev. E. E.
72
Moody, Samuel
16,
40, 119
KeUogg, Ezekiel
Gfles, Crouch
55
Morse, John
81
62, 92
Muddy Brook
28
Joseph 7, 11, 14, 21
, 31, 32,
34, 119
128

Index

N

Nash, Enos

57, 89

John

101

Rev, John A.

94

Josiah

66, 68

Samuel

37

Samuel

95

Newbury, Thomas

10

Timothy

16, 34, 119

New Haven 23

, 70, 75, 94

New London

19, 111

Nichols, A,

16

George

94

Noble, Medad

66

Northampton 4, 5,

14, 17, 20,

25, 26, 32, 53, 56,

59, 61, 81,

90, 112

North Hadley

96

Norwalk

53

Norwich

33

Nye, Ichabod

66

Parsons, Rev, Da-vid 61, 70
Joseph 43
Partrigg, John 81
Samuel 34, 40, 43, 44, 81,

Porter, Experience 97
Jeremiah 55
Jonathan Edwards 64
Moses 56, 58, 60, 68, 69, 92
Samuel 15, 34
Samuel, 2nd 43, 44, 45, 46
63, 67, 68, 89, 92, 119
Samuel, 3d 55
Prentice, John 19
Proprietors of the Locks and

Canals

109
Prutt, Arthur
49
Zebulon
51
Pynchon, John
1,2,
20,
24, 43
28,
, 87
R
Rand, Rev, William 53
Reed, Thomas 30, 32
Regicides, The 22
Riddle, Rev. WiUiam 61
Rugg, Samuel 101
Russell, Rev, Ezekiel 94
John 3, 14, 19
Parson John 1, 3, 10, 11,
15, 17, 19, 21, 22, 29, 31,
34, 39, 40, 75, 78, 86, 97,
86
119, 121
William 15, 118
Jonathan
10
Pease, WiUis 113
PhiUp
9
Phelps, Charles 59, 67, 68, 89
Samuel
10
Pierce, Josiah 62, 63, 84, 90,
RusseU Church, The
71
102, 110
Pittsfield 111
PLxley, Wm, 16
s
Plummer, General Joseph B, 97
Pomeroy, Ebenezer 66
Saratoga, Battle of
64
Titus 106
Seelye, Pres, L. Clark
97
Pomfret 54
Slavery in Hadley
48
Porter, Aaron 81
Shays, Daniel
67
Eleazer 46, 47, 48, 54, 63,
Shepherd, Le\'i
106
89, 112
Shipman, William
111
Elisha 63, 64, 65, 89
Smith, Benjamin
88
Index

129

Smith Caleb

68, 88

Chileab, 1st

16, 120

Chileab, 2nd

46,89

Darvid

89

Dudley

65

Ebenezer

42

Eliakim

56, 62

Enos

58, 67

Erastus

88

Ichabod

55

Jacob

71, 92

John, Dea,

46, 55, 89

John

90

Joseph
Noah

81, 89

63

Oliver

62, 66, 89

Percy

68

PhUip 15, 31, 37, 38,
117, 119
Rodney 84
Samuel 3, 4, 6, 12, 15, 17
25, 30, 65, 78, 117, 119
Seth 92
Timothy 66
Warham 63
Windsor 68
Rev, Worthington 94
Smith College 97
South Hadley 52, 90
South Hadley Falls 102, 109
Springfield 12, 25, 28, 32, 54, 94
Standley, Thomas 4, 7
Stanley, Nathaniel 15
Thomas 4, 7, 15, 118
Steele, Stephen 81
Stockbridge, Levi 96, 97
Stratford 41
Strong, Governor 60, 70
Sunderland 53
Swan, Thomas 81

Taylor, John

16

Taylor, OUver S, 94
Stephen 4
Terry, Stephen 16, 118
TUton, Peter 6, 15, 23, 31, 78,
83, 119
Traynor, Francis 66
Treat, Salmon 81
Turner, WiUiam 32

U
United Colonies of New
England 76
Utrecht 44 58

Vermont, The 108, 113
Vermont, University of 94

W
Ward, Nathaniel 2, 5, 16, 78,
79, 82, 118
Warner, Andrew 16, 44, 79, 119
Daniel 4
Jonathan 62
Oliver 52, 55
Orange 45
Warren, Lemuel 68
Watson, Caleb 79
Webster, Gov, Jolm 3, 16, 19, 117
Mary 15, 37
Noah 117
WeUs, Jonathan 33
Thomas 12, 15, 119
Thomas, Jr. 21
Westcarr, Dr. John 20, 21, 120
Westfield 3, 32
West Springfield 57
Westwood, Wmiam 2, 4, 7, 10,
12, 15, 118

130

Index

Wethersfield 1, 4, 8, g, 81, 110
Whalley, Gen, Edward 23, 24
White, Daniel 4, 67
John 2, 4, 15, 119
John, Jr, 4
Nathaniel 46, 67
Whitefield, Rev. George 54
Whiting, Rev. John 10
Whitney, Prof. WilUam D g7
WUUam HaU, The 113
WUUams, Rev, Chester 54, 56,
121
Rev, Ebenezer 54
Elisha , 81
Rev. John 53
Solomon 81

wmiams. Rev. Stephen 57, 81
WiUiamsburg 111
Windsor 3, 10, 15, 81
Witchcraft in Hadley 37
Woburn 90
Woodbridge, Rev. John 69, 92
Worcester, Rev. Leonard 61

Yale, David 76
Elihu 76
Yale CoUege 54, 57, 72, 81, 97
Younglove, John 80

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