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LIFE AND NATURE

UNDEE . :- J

THE TROPICS;

OR,

SKETCHES OF TRAVELS AMONG THE ANDES, AND
ON THE ORINOCO, RIO
AND IN OENTRAI

BY

H. M. AND P. V. N. MYERS.

EEVISED EDITION.

NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
54D & 551 BEOADWAT.
1871.

YALE

EsTEEED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871,
By D. APPUETON & COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at WaBhingtoa.

TO
PROFESSOR ASA GRAY, M.D., LL.D.,
COItllESPONDlNO MEMBER OF TSE KOVAL BAVAIUAN ACADEMY, ETC,
WHOSE EMINENT LABORS
HAVE DONE SO MUCH TO ADVANCE AND KENDER POPULAR THAT DEPARTMENT
OP NATURAL HISTORY TO WHICH HIS LIFE HAS BEEN DEVOTED,
THIS VOLUME
IS, BY PERMISSION, MOST KESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED
AS A BLIGirr TKIBUTB OF
PROPOUND ADMIRATION AND GRATITUDE.

"Nowhere does Nature more deeply impress us with a sense of her great
ness, nowhere does she speak to ub more forcibly, than in the tropical
world."— Humboldt.

" It is a goodly sight to see
What Heaven has done for this delicious land !
What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree.
What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand :
But man would mar them with au impious hand."
Childb Harold.

PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION.

The kind reception of our sketches has encouraged us
to undertake the work of a careful revision in order that
our hook might be rendered, as far as may be, worthy of
the favor shown it. We have also added to the present
edition a brief record of an expedition to Central America,
sent out by the Lyceum of Natural History of Williams
College, three years after the one whose history is recorded
¦ in the body of the work. This late expedition, under the
charge of the senior author, consisted, besides himself, of
five members : L. S. Gates, B. C. Heald, J. M. Ide, F. E.
Stratton, and C. F. Underwood, all of the present senior
class ("?1). It was the efficiency of these members in the
field-work of their respective departments that rendered
the results of the expedition so fully commensurate with
the time and means at disposal. Their individual reports,
kindly placed in our hands, have been used in preparing
the necessarily short account which we have given of the
party's experiences.

PEEFACE.

The following pages are a narrative of a scientific
expedition fi-om Williams College to the tropical re
gions of South America. The Lycenm of Natural
History of this institution has sent out several expe
ditions to different localities that have presented them
selves as favorable fields for new and interesting re
search. The one whose history is given in this volume
was sent out in the summer of 1867. Upon its first
inception, Prof. A. Hopkins was intending to accom
pany the expedition ; but business and educational re
lations having rendered this impossible, an invitation
was extended to Prof. James Orton, of Rochester Uni
versity, to take charge, and was accepted.
Colonel P. Staunton, Yice-Chancellor of Ingham
University, Leroy, N. Y., accompanied the expedition
as its artist ; the party was also joined by F. S. Wil
liams, Esq., of Albany, ]Sr. Y. ; Messrs. A. Bushnell,
W. Gilbert, K. H. Forbes, and the authors, were the
members from Williams College. The expedition was
formed into two divisions: one, consisting of three
members, Messrs. Gilbert, Forbes, and H. M. Myers,
proceeding from Caracas, upon the northern coast,

vi PEEFACE.
penetrated to the Amazons, by the courses of the Ori
noco and Eio Negro ; the other party crossed the con
tinent from the west, first ascending the Andes to
Quito, then descending the slope of the Eastem Cor
dillera to the Eio Napo, and, by a canoe-voyage down
that stream, reaching the Amazons, which was followed
to its mouth.
As the scientific results of the western branch have
been given to the public by Prof. Orton, we have
made brief the portion of our narrative referring to
that division ; yet, while divesting it of details, we have
made suflScient notings of our experiences and observa
tions to give completeness to our history. Portions of
the work have been taken, with but few incidental
corrections, from articles written by us while upon our
tour, or after our return, and which have appeared in
different papers and periodicals. Neither part is dis
tinctly that of either author ; but in the preparation
of the work we have freely interchanged notes and
suggestions. While giving, in this volume, mainly the results
of our own observations, we have not failed to avail
ourselves of the labors of others, and have carefully
examined the few works within our reach relative to
the regions traversed. In the first portion of our work
we have been guided by the " Travels " of the eminent
German naturalist, Humboldt, to whose observations
we have made frequent allusions in the course of our
narrative ; to the graphically-written work of Paez we
are also indebted for many suggestions ; upon Ecuador,
Hassaurek's " Four Years among Spanish- Americans "
has been almost our only guide. The greater portion
of the volume is devoted to the Orinoco, Rio Negro,

PEEFACE. vii
and the Andes. We have given but two chapters on
the Amazons, for the wonders of that river have been
made known by such writers as Agassiz, Wallace, and
Bates, and many earlier travellers, and to these writers
we would refer those of our readers who may desire a
better knowledge of the valley of the Great River.
The desire of many that a complete narrative of the
expedition firom our coUege should be given in a per
manent form, and our own wish that others might
share with us the pleasure we experienced in viewing
a tropical Nature in those equatorial regions where she
presents herself in forms so strange and grand, coupled
with the fact that so little has been written upon those
interesting portions of the continent to which sections
our work is principally devoted, are the only considera
tions that could have led us to undertake the preparation
of the present volume. We are conscious that our work
has all the imperfections incident to a first effort, and
that its kind reception can come only through the kindly
indulgence of our readers.
The illustrations which embellish the work are prin
cipally from our own sketch-book, and are, for the most
part, representations of natural scenery. In this con
nection we would express our especial indebtedness to
Miss F. A. Snyder, to whom our sketches were submit
ted to be prepared for the engraver.
The expedition is under deep indebtedness to the
Smithsonian Institution, which provided instruments
for making meteorological observations, and secured
transportation of collections, besides giving essential
aid in other ways.
We desire to express our kindest thanks to Dr. Asa
Gray, for the identification of many of our plants ; to

viii PEEFACE.
Don Ramon Paez, of Yenezuela, for valuable assistance
rendered us in the preparation of our work ; to Senor
E. Staal, of Yalencia, for much information kindly
given us ; to Mr. James Henderson, of Para, J. F.
Reeve, Esq., of Guayaquil, and Dr. William Jameson,
of Quito, for many favors. We would also express
our deep obligations to Prof. A. Hopkins, for valuable
suggestions and kind encouragement in our work ; to
Dr. J. Torrey, for the examination of plants submitted
to him ; to R. H. Forbes, our fellow-traveller, for notes
generously placed at our disposal ; to Albert Bushnell,
also our friend and companion ; to C. P. Williams, Esq.,
of Albany ; to W. P. Palmer, Esq., and Cyrus W. Field,
Esq., of New York ; and to R. B. HaU, Esq., of Ash-
field, Mass. Nor would we forget to acknowledge our
indebtedness to Captain Lee, of Guayaquil, to Captain
Raygado, of the Peruvian steamer " Morona," to Com-
mandante Cardozo, of the BrazUian steamer " Icami-
dba," on the Amazons, and to the many other friends
that have aided us, and whose favors are gratefuUy re
membered. The Authors.
Williams College, November, 1870.

OOl^TElTTS.

CHAPTER L
FROM LA GUAIRA TO CARACAS.
First View of the Tropics. — Silla— La Guaira. — ^Fortifications. — Custom
house "Reasonableness." — Ascent ofthe Cordillera. — Picturesque
Scenery. — Arrival at Caracas .... Page 1
CHAPTEE IL
CARACAS.
Valley of Caracas. — Site ofthe City. — Houses. — Cathedral. — Public Build-,
ings. — ^Pulperias. — Earthquake of 1812. — People. — ^Dress. — Education.
— ^Literature. — Eeligion. — Cemeteries . . . . 9
CHAPTEE m.
EXCURSIONS ABOUT CARACAS.
Trip to the Cave of Encantado. — EaUroad. — Thunder-storm. — ^Petare. — A
Hopeful Student. — Experience at a Posada. — The Cave, — ^Pineapple-
Plant.— Calabash-Tree.— Tuca-Shrub.— Death of Mr. Wilson.- El
Valle. — Cerro de Avila ...... 20
CHAPTEE IV.
VALLEYS OP ARAGUA AND VALENCIA.
Departure fi-om Caracas. — Scenery of the Eio Guaire — Beautiful View
from Mount Higuerote. — The " Garden of Venezuela." — Victoria. —
Spanish Extortion. — A Word on Mules. — ^Venezuelian Coaches. — Mara-
cai. — CastUian Etiquette. — Fast in a Stream. — Entrance into Valen
cia. — The City. — Lake Tacarigua .... 30

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE V.
VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
Hacienda of Mr. Glockler.— Coffee.— Caoao.—Tiger-Eunt.— A Tropical
Forest. — ^Lost on the Mountains. — A Cheerless Night. — ^Exit from the
Wilds.— Eetum to Valencia. — ^Descent to the Sea-coast. — ^Papaw-
Tree. — " Cow-Tree." — Thermal Springs. — ^Discomforts of Life at a
Hacienda. — Cocoa-Palm. — Mangroves. — ^Puerto Cabello Page 44
Cm\PTEE VI.
OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS — APLOAT IN THE POREST.
Water-system of South America. — Our Route.- Leave Puerto Cahello. —
Last Visit to Valencia. — A South American Eoad. — ^Fording a Eiver. —
Wild Scenery. — Night at a Posada. — First View of Llanos. — Their Ex
tent and General Features. — Town of Pao. — ^Emharked for Baul. — Our
Bongo. — "Very bad" to wash before Breakfast. — ^PalmB.^Bam-
boos. — Alligators. — ^Howling Monkeys. — ^Lost in the Forest. — Navigat
ing under Difficulties. — Shooting Rapids. — ^Night at a Llano Hut 58
CHAPTER VII.
BAUL AND SAN PERNANDO.
Over the Flooded Llanoa. — Abundance of Animated Life. — On the Eio
Tuiaco. — A Tropical Shower. — Sickness. — Arrival at Baul. — One of
the Party Homeward bound. — Sad Eefleotions. — Stay at Baul. — ^Down
the Portuguesa.— Arrival at San Fernando. — The Town.— Preparations
for continuing our Voyage. — A Deliberate Crew . . 81
CHAPTEE Vni.
AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
Aspect of the Inundated Plains. — ^Wild Horses and Cattle. — Crocodiles. —
Anacondas.— Electric Eels. — Cannibal-Fish. — ^Experiences upon the
Payara. — Myriads of Aquatic Birds. — A Breakfast and Cock-fight. —
Manati, or "Sea-cow." — Upon the Arauca. — Over Flooded Savan
nas. — At Asaiba. — Niguas. — Jaguar. — Abnormal Butchering. — Em
barked for the Orinoco. — Navigating Submerged Forest. — ^Lost upon
the Llanos. — An Uncomfortable Night. — Arrival upon the Orinoco. 93
CHAPTEE IX.

The Orinoco. — Preparations for entering Urbana. — Reception at the Town.
— A Fiesta-Day. — Our Quarters. — Smoking out Bats, — ^Description of

CONTENTS. xi
Town.— Ascent of CeiTO.— Picturesque View.— Harper's Weekly.—
Insects and Birds. — Annoying Delays. — Arrangements for Voyage up
the Orinoco  Paoe ill

CHAPTEE X.
UP THE ORINOCO.
FareweU to Urbana,— Strait of Baraguan.— Mirage,— Harvest of Turtles'
Eggs. — Camp of Indians. — Santa Barbara. — Indian Simplicity and Be
liefs. — ^Features of the River,— Castillo de los Espafioles, — A Legend. —
Piedra del Tigre. — Music in the Books, — ^Eaudal de Cariben,— Rio
Meta. — A Wild Scene, — Bats and Other Annoyances . 123
CHAPTER XI.
THE GREAT CATARACTS OP THE ORINOCO.
Grandeur of the Rapids of Atures. — ^Passing the Cataracts. — Village of
Atures. — ^Weapons of the Natives. — Suffering from Insects, — Cave of
Ataruipe, — ^Beautiful Palms. — Arrive at the Eaudales de Maypures. —
Magnificent View of the Cataracts, — Thanksgiving Dinner, — ^Village
of Maypures. — ^Nature's Chronometer, — ^Farewell to the Orinoco, — At
San Fernando de Atabapo ..... 141
CHAPTER Xll.
ATABAPO AND UPPER EIO NEGRO.
Village of San Fernando.— Ship-huilding, — Voyage up the Atabapo,— Its
Peculiar Features, — Arrival at Javita. — Portage to Pimiohin. — Down
the Pimichin. — ^Rio Negro. — ^VUlage of Moroa. — Scarcity of Food. —
Repairing a Yankee Clock. — Arrangements for Voyage to the Ama
zons. — Leave Mor6a. — San Carlos. — ^Enter Brazil . . 158
CHAPTEE XHI.
VOYAGE DOWN THE KIO NEGRO.
First Glimpse of Portuguese Civilization. — Climate, — Cross the Equator, —
Cataracts of San Gabriel, — Grand Scenery. — ^Desertion of Guide. —
India-Eubber Manufacture. — Christmas on the Eio Negro. — Floating
at Night. — Beauty of the Southern Firmament. — ^Lost on the Eiver. —
Barcellos.^Geology of the Eio Negro. — ^Desolation of the Eiver. —
Reach Manaos.— Tidings from the Quitonian Party of our Expedition.—
Farewell to the Rio Negro ..... 175

xii CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE XIV.
PROM PANAMA TO BODEGAS,
Aspinwall. — Across the Isthmus. — Tropical Vegetation, — Panama, — Upon
the Pacific. — Paita. — Peruvian Coast, — Ancient Sea-Beaches, — Causes
of Sterility and- Low Temperature, — Eetm-n Northward. — ^Forest. —
Guayaquil, — Preparations for Climbing the Andes. — Scenery of the
Guayas, — First View of Cbimborazo. — Night-Scene upon the Eiver,
Page 194
CHAPTEE XV,
CROSSING THE ANDES.
Bodegas. — ^Beneath the Forest, — Climbing tho Cordillera, — Our Mules, —
Above the Clouds. — Descending Trains. — Camino Eeal. — ^Valley of
Ghimbo. — Guaranda, — Upon the Crest of the Andes, — Arenal. — The
Snow-line. — ^Dreary Ride. — Zones of Vegetation, — Coloration of
Flowers of High Altitudes, — Valley of Quito. — At the Foot of Chim-
borazo. — Mocha, — A Posada-scene, — Spanish Curiosity, — Ambato. —
Vespers among the Andes. — ^Indian Hospitality. — Lataounga. — Plain
of Turubamba,^— Glimpse of Quito .... 207
CHAPTER XVI.
QUITO,
Situation of the Capital, — Delightful Climate. — History of the City, —
Modern Quito. — Houses. — Plazas. — Traces of Earthquakes, — Popula
tion. — Results of Amalgamation, — No Progress, — Eeligion, — Future
of the City. — Hacienda of Chillo .... 226
CHAPTER XVII.
MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OP QUITO.
Groups of Volcanoes. — Quitonian Peaks. — What gives them their Inter
est. — Chimborazo. — Its Summit gained by M. Remy, — Sangai, — Coto-
paxi. — Antisana, — Pichincha. — Our Ascent, — ^Wad Scene from its
Summit,— Down its Crater,— A Thunder-storm within.— Climbing
out. — Lost upon the Volcano, — Return to Quito . . 238
CHAPTER XVIII.
OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
Amazonian Forest,— Preparations for our Journey.— Our Artist's Grave-
Religious Intolerance.— Across the Valley.— Mimosas.— IL-icienda of
Ituloachi.— Tablon.— Sunset among the Andes,— Tho Home of the
lucas,— Indigenous Civilizations,— Condors,— Over the Crest.— View

CONTENTS. xiii
of the Amazonian Valley.— First Waters ofthe Great River.- Andean
Road. — Reception at Papallacta. — ^Indian Burial, — Arrangements for
our March to the Napo ..... Page 252
CHAPTER XIX.
BENEATH THE POREST.
Leave Papallacta. — Wretched Trail. — Torrents and Land-slides. — Our
Camp. — ^Baeza. — ^Fording the Hondaohi. — Separated from our Train. —
Arohidona and Archidonians. — Photographing Indians. — A New
Train. — Tropical Forest. — Scarcity of Animals. — Sight of the Eio
Napo  267
CHAPTEE XX.
CANOE-VOTAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
Napo Valley. — An Island-home.. — Bees, — ^Indian Tribes. — Their Lan
guage. — Down the Eiver. — Shooting Rapids. — Santa Rosa. — An Indif
ferent Crew. — Coco Village. — Our "Ziparo." — ^Last View of the
Andes. — ^Birds upon the Napo. — Toucans. — Hummers. — Turtles'
Eggs, — Sanondos. — Camp upon a Playa, — Our Indians. — Tropical
Vegetation, — View of the Maranon .... 278
CHAPTER XXI.
THE UPPER AMAZONS.
The River. — Origin of its Name. — Pebas. — ^Marine Shells.— Geology of the
Valley. — Glacial Phenomena. — Farewell to our " Z4paro." — Steam
ers upon the Amazons. — The " Morona." — Maueallaota. — Indians
Alarmed. — Loreto. — Tabatinga, — The " loamiaba,"— Fonte Boa. —
Tefi'e. — " Men-y Christmas ! " — Arrival at Manaos . . 294
CHAPTEE XXII.
THE LOTyER AMAZONS,
Departure from Manaos- Our Steamer.— Monkeys.— Madeu-a River.— Eise
and Fall of the Amazons,— Flooded Forest,— Igarapds,— Victoria
Regia. — ^VUlaBeUa. — ^Mountain Seenery.—Straits of Obidos. — Tides. —
Santarem.- Breaks in the Great Forest, — Oceanic Eiver,— Natural
Canals,— Forest,— Para Estuary,— Para.— Commerce ofthe Amazons,—
Settlement of the Valley,— A Pleasant Meeting,— Farewell to the
Tropica  808

Il^TEODUCTIOIT.

South Ameeica is a part ofthe world about which little,
comparatively, is known. Owing to the disturbed politi
cal state of the country, commerce has sought other chan
nels, and enterprise has looked elsewhere for its reward.
A large capitalist said to the -writer, many years ago,
"•Convince me that money can be made, and I will put a
steamer upon the Magdalena at once." This was when
General Mosquera had lately been elected President of
New Granada, or, as it is now called, Colombia, and when
religious toleration had just been secured in that republic.
At that time the prospects for Colombia, politically and
religiously, seemed to be brightening, and the students of
Williams, wakeful to " the signs of the times," pledged
five hundred dollars to one of the ofiicers of the College
to assist in the exploration of the country. The idea was,
that feasible points should be selected — points that could
be occupied as centres of a higher civilization and better
type of Christianity. Some years later, one of the stu
dents, Frederick Hicks, proposed to realize this idea on
his own responsibility. After looking the ground over,
travelling somewhat extensively both in Colombia and
Ecuador, he returned to Panama and built a commodious

xvi INTEODUCTION.
chapel, regarding that as a point which was central, and
from which an influence might be exerted northward as
well as southward. Frequent communications from Mr.
Hicks have fanned the South-American spirit on this
ground for a long time, and rendered the Lyceum of
Natural History the more willing to undertake an expe
dition in that direction ; so that, when Prof. Orton, with
whom a correspondence had been opened by the Lyceum
on the subject of an expedition, expressed a decided pref
erence for South America, the thing was at once agreed to.
It is obvious that the expedition, by dividing as it did
at ISTew York, was able to secure far more important re
sults than could have accrued from a joint expedition. It
is especially obvious that the branch of the expedition
which struck the northern shore of the continent, explor
ing first the Orinoco, and then the Rio Negro at least
eight hundred miles farther than Humboldt hstd done, has
performed a very valuable service in the interest of geog
raphy, natural science, and ethnology.
Prof. Orton has published an interesting account of
his observations in connection with the western branch of
the expedition. The northern branch now gives its report
to the world. Some independent observations made by a
member of the western branch of the expedition will also
accompany the present volume.
We have no Royal Geographical, Geological, or Astro
nomical Societies in this country ; but no doubt many
curious eyes will be eager to read, and many interested
ears to listen, while our young friends tell the story of
their explorations, and their adventures in a region purely
tropical, where every thing in Nature and man difiers so
widely from any thing we see — a region, too, for the most
part, until recently, almost unknown.
A. Hopkins.
Williams College, December, 1870.

LIFE AS'D [NATUEE,

CHAPTER I.
FEOM LA GUAIEA TO C ABAC AS.
First View of the Tropics. — SiUa — ^La Guaira. — Fortifications, — Custom
house "Reasonableness." — Ascent ofthe Cordillera. — Picturesque
Scenery, — Arrival at Caracas.
It was on the afternoon of July 27th, after a voyage
of twenty-five days from New York, that we caught our
first glimpse of the tropics. Far to the southward could
be seen what appeared to be a mass of clouds piled one
upon another, which, to the unpractised eye, difi'ered not
from those that encircled the entire heavens. That dark
pile, whose outline was so distinctly marked far up from the
horizon, was a branch of the Andes, that mighty range of
mountains which traverses our sphere almost from pole to
pole, and, although over sixty miles away, the irregular
contour of its lofty summit could be distinctly traced
upon the sky. We were not permitted to watch long the
scene before us. Clouds soon gathered in around, and the
darkness of approaching night veiled the land from our
eight. By three o'clock, next morning, we were within five
miles of La Guaira, where we were obliged to wait for

2 • FEOM LA GUAIEA TO CAEACAS.
day and a favorable breeze to carry us into port. The
wind, as is usual here in the early morning, blew but
feebly, so that we entered with some difficulty. At
length we gained the haven, and dropped anchor about
tliree hundred yards from shore. Directly before us, ris
ing abruptly out of the sea, looms up La Silla, the highest
peak of the northern Cordillera of the Andes. Its rocky
and precipitous side, rising to the height of nearly nine
thousand feet, looks as if one of those convulsions of
Nature, which so often shake this unstable land, would
overthrow the towering heights and bury forever in its
ruins the town of La Guaira, which lies closely nestled at
its base. Clinging to its rugged slope, far up its side, is
a scanty, scrubby growth of bushes, with here and there,
in some ravine, a clump approaching somewhat to the
magnitude of trees. Interspersed throughout this under
growth, and towering above it, are cactuses, some attain
ing the height of thirty feet, and resembling at a distance
leafless and nearly branchless trees. Higher up the
mountain-side we see only Alpine grass, and this in turn
gives place to barren rocks which crown the lofty summit.
To heighten still more the grandeur of the scene, the
morning is clear and beautiful, and the sun, as it rises from
its ocean-bed, gilds the few fleecy clouds which float over
the crest and along the flank of La Silla, presenting a
scene not often witnessed at this season, when clouds and
storms prevail in the tropics. One of the first things
which will attract the attention of the traveller, if he has
never before visited the equatorial regions, will be the
palms scattered along the coast, and which by their tall,
straight trunks, thirty and forty feet in height, topped
with a cluster of gigantic and elegantly-formed leaves,
will impress him at once with the strangeness as well as
beauty of vegetation within the tropics.
The port, or, rather, roadstead of La Guaira, opens

n

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LA GUAIEA. 3
directly into the sea, with nothing to break the force of the
winds or waves. In the absence of a breakwater, which
might easily be constructed, wharves are, of course, useless.
Vessels are therefore obliged to anchor some distance
from land, and unload their cargoes by means of lighters.
The position of the town, wedged in between Mount Silla
and the sea, on a strip of land scarcely three hundred
yards in its greatest breadth, backed by an enormous
rocky wall, reflecting the heat of the sun on the red-tiled
roofs and stony pavements, renders it, according to Hum
boldt, the hottest place upon the earth. La Guaira has a
population of about eight thousand. There are a theatre
and two churches ; one of the latter, the temple of San
Juan de Dios, is one of the most elegant edifices in Vene
zuela. As we wander through the long, narrow streets
of this antiquated city, we meet groups of every shade
of complexion and in every variety of costume, from the
gayly-dressed senora in her flounces and extended trail,
with a black-laced mantilla over the shoulders and a veil
upon her head, to the negro boasting of pants and hat,
and the urchin clad only in Nature's simple garb.
Leaving the narrow and crowded streets, we clamber
to the fortifications which lift then- battlements above the
town. A few cannon frown defiantly through the embra
sures and over the parapets. Soldiers in almost as many
difierent costumes as in number, with " arms at will," are
lazily guarding the works. From this stand-point, we
have a fine view of the city and its environs ; but we can
not tarry long, for twilight is already deepening, and we
are reminded that in the tropics darkness quickly suc
ceeds. We therefore hastily descend to our hotel, stop
ping for a moment to view the evening muster of the sol
diers within the fortifications that line the shore. These
works are quite formidable as well as those overlooking
the town on the mountain-side, and if well manned would

4 FROM LA GUAIRA TO CAEACAS.
render the place impregnable to an approach from the sea,
which is the only side u.pon which an attack can well be
made. We cared not to protract our stay on the hot and arid
coast of La Guaira. We were also admonished, by the
death from yellow fever, the day before we arrived, of one
of our countrymen who had been for some years a resi
dent of the place, that it would not be well for us to
remain long where that epidemic was raging. We there
fore determined to leave on the morrow for the more ge
nial and salubrious clime of the table-land of Caracas.
That beautiful and fertile valley is situated directly over
the mountain from La Guaira, at an elevation of some
three thousand feet above the sea. There are two roads
leading to it from the coast, the shorter but more precipi
tous of which is a mule-path, leading over the summit
between the peak of Naiguanat and the Cerro de Avila,
the two forming what is called the SUla, or saddle, of
Caracas. The other, and the one we j)referred, is a car
riage-road which reaches the capital by a circuitous
route of fourteen miles. The old road, which was in use
at the time of Humboldt's visit to the country, was be
tween the two we have mentioned. Before allowed to
take our departure for Caracas, we were systematically
subjected to the inspections and extortions of custom
house ofiicials. Our arms, ammunition, and some other ar
ticles, which were pronounced subject to duty, they were
willing, in consideration of the object for which we vis
ited their country, to allow to pass upon the payment of
what they termed the reasonable amount of forty dollars,
although they claimed that much more was rightly due
them. Such " reasonableness " we hope it may be oui
good fortune not often to meet with. Our coach, with
three abreast, at the appointed hour, is at the door of our
hotel, ourselves and baggage stowed within, and all is

ASCENT OF THE COEDILLEEA. 5
ready. It is two p. m. as wo take our departure. The
rays of a tropical sun pour down without mercy, and are
reverberated by every stone and rock until the veiy air
we breathe seems as if drawn fi-om a heated fumace. We
lay aside our outer garments and make ourselves as com
fortable as circumstances will permit. The road leads
out of the town on the north, skirting the base of the
mountains, between which and the sea there is for some
distance scarcely room for the coach to pass ; then the
space -widens, and we find ourselves riding through the
village of Maiquetia with its beautiful cocoa-nut grove ;
then turning up the mountain-slope, we wind along the
eastem side of the Quebrada de Tipe, a large ravine, the
aspect of the landscape varying at every turn. Here the
maguey, a plant with agave leaves, finds its native home
and adorns by its unsurpassed beauty these rugged wilds.
Its lofty arboreal form, with its thousands of drooping
liliaceous flowers, presents a sight of which the traveller
never wearies.
As we continue our journey, slowly winding up the
zigzag road, we find ourselves rising into a purer atmos
phere. We breathe more freely, and no longer feel that
languor and debility experienced while amid the burning
sands of the tierra caliente, or hot land below. Reaching
what is called the half-way station, we stop and change
horses. There are two or three other wayside inns we have
passed, and which afford resting-places to the traveller and
trains of animals that daily pass over the road between La
Guaira and Caracas. Our garments, removed at the outset
of our journey, we now gladly replace, for we have at
tained an altitude of nearly five thousand feet above the
sea. Above us and along the summit heavy clouds are gath
ering, and, as they come sweeping down the mountain-side,
threaten to soon envelop us in their gloom. From this
point, the view, which the traveller has spread out before

6 FROM LA GUAIEA TO CARACAS.
him, is one of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. To his
left and far below he beholds the terminus of the deep
ravine of the Quebrada de Tipe, which running down the
mountain-slope, spreads out at its base into a plain of exu
berant fertility, covered with beautiful estates of growing
corn, bananas, and other productions, sustained by irriga
tion. The extension of this plain, or, rather, low ridge of
land, into the sea, forms the promontory of Cabo Blanco,
whose white, barren shores glisten in the distance.
Farther to the right, and almost beneath his feet, lie the
village of Maiquetia and its grove of cocoa-nut trees,
which so impresses the traveller as he approaches from
the ocean. Looking to the right and southward are seen
vessels in the port, riding at their anchorage. And there
is La Guaira, encircled by the sea on the one side, and by
an amphitheatral wall of rock on the other, while beyond
the ocean stretches to the horizon, striped by lines of
billows which come rolling in toward the shore.
From the half-way station the ascent '-is much easier,
owing to the sinuosities of the road, and the less precipi-
tousness of the Cordillera as we approach its summit.
The scenery also grows wilder and vegetation less luxu
riant as we ascend. The clouds through which we pass
give forth a drizzling rain, and the increasing cold renders
our overcoats necessary for comfort. Respecting the
change of temperature experienced in passing from the
tierra caliente to the tierra fria, as the high elevations are
called, one is liable to form a wrong estimate : for it must
be remembered that the traveller in his ascent passes in a
few hours from the burning sands of the tropical coast to
an altitude of some seven thousand feet, the highest point
of the range over which the road passes. This elevation,
although not great, has a temperature so cool, that, in
entering it suddenly from an extreme of heat, there is ex
perienced a sensation that leads to an erroneous conclusion.

PICTURESQUE SCENERY. 7
The same may be said in regard to the temperature of La
Guaira. The thermometer seldom rises above ninety de
grees Fahrenheit ; yet, as the variation during the twenty-
four hours, and even from one season to another, is com
paratively slight, one can easily conceive that the quantity
of heat received must be very great. The intense suffering,
therefore, in the tropics, results, as Humboldt observes, not
from an excess of heat, but firom its long continuance at a
high temperature.
The summit of the Cordillera is at length reached, and
over it we ride rapidly, and commence the descent at a
still greater pace. The first view of Caracas, which lies
just at the base of the mountain where the road makes
its descent into the vaUey, is obtained at no great distance.
It is nearly dark as we enter the capital of Venezuela.
Our lumbering, three-horse vehicle rattles over the rough,
stony pavement of the streets, and stops in front of a po-
sada, kept by Madame St. Amand, who welcomes us in
English, and shows us at once to a fine suite of rooms,
which, like all the apartments of the house, open upon a
court-yard in the centre, containing beautiful shrubbery
and a maguey-plant in full bloom.
Upon the evening of our arrival, we were met by Mr.
Wilson, the minister from our country, who gave us a
most cordial reception. We were also happy in making
the acquaintance of Profs. Ernst and Gearing, two dis
tinguished German naturalists. The rich and varied flora
of the tropics, comparatively but little known to the bota
nist, had enticed Mr. Ernst from Europe to this his adopted
country. For three years he had been engaged in his
favorite pursuit, confining his researches to the district of
Caracas and vicinity. During that time he had collected
and classified over three thousand species of plants, which
is more than twice the entire number described in the
Natural History of New York. The result of his labors
2

8 FROM LA GUAIRA TO CARACAS,
will in Sue time be given to the public, and will consti
tute, if we except the published reports of Humboldt and
Bonpland, with those of some minor travellers, the first
botanical work that has ever been issued on that region.
Mr. Gearing had been in the country about a year, and
had succeeded in making a most valuable collection in the
department of ornithology. The researches of these gen
tlemen in Northern Venezuela will add much to the cause
of science, and increase largely the facilities for others
who may desire to make investigations and collections in
the natural history of this country. Often did we in the
course of our travels have occasion to be grateful for in
formation imparted to us, as well as many valuable sug
gestions received from them during the short time we re
mained in the city.

CHAPTER II.

CARACAS.

Valley of Caracas,— Site ofthe City,— Houses,— Cathedral.— Public Build
ings.— Pulperias,— Earthquake of 1812,— Peoplo.—Dress.— Education.
• — ^Literatm-e. — ^Religion. — Cemeteries.
Iir the southern portion of Colombia,* the Andes, which
sweep along the western coast of the continent, through
Chili, Peru, and Ecuador, with a breadth of sixty to four
hundred miles, yet with a rigid preservation of their unity,
divide into three distinct ranges. The most western of
these branches runs close along the Pacific shore of Colom
bia, and enters the Isthmus of Panama ; the second trav
erses the centre of the republic, until it touches the shores
of the Caribbean Sea ; the third takes a more easterly
direction, and, upon finding the ocean, skirts the northern
shore of Venezuela, terminating at the delta of the Ori
noco. One of the most interesting features of this re
markable and unparalleled mountain-system, aside from its
volcanoes, is its lofty table-lands and beautiful valleys,
lying between its longitudinal ranges. Far to the south
we find the Thibetan highlands of Bolivia, lying about
the shores of Lake Titicaca ; under the equator the beauti
ful plains of Quito ; and, advancing still farther north, wg
* Called New Granada, until September 20, 1861, when a new consti
tution was adopted, and the name changed to United States of Colombia.

10 CAEACAS.
find ourselves surrounded by the smiling vales and ver
dant plains of Bogota. If, from the tripartition cf the
system in Colombia, we journey along the eastern branch
until we reach the sea, then follow the range for one hun
dred miles, as it sweeps along the coast, bathing its feet
in the waters of the Caribbean, we find ourselves in one
of the most beautiful valleys that fancy could depict.
Here, lying between two parallel ranges of the Cordil
lera, at an elevation of nearly three thousand feet (2,924)
above the Atlantic, is the picturesque valley of Caracas.
This plateau runs east and west, having a length of ten
miles, and a breadth of six or seven. On the south is a
range of hills which separates it from the valley of Tui,
while on the north are the high mountains of La Silla and
Avila of the coast-chain. The Rio Guaire, taking its rise
in the mountains of Higuerote on the west, flows through
the valley, irrigating the soil, and maintaining a most
luxuriant growth of vegetation. The climate is that of
perpetual spring. What place can we conceive to be
more delightful than that where the temperatm-e of the
day is never above eighty degrees, and at night seldom
below sixty ; * where vegetation is always green, flowers
ever blooming, and fruit in the greatest abundance and
variety at all seasons ? Here, growing side by side, are
the banana, the cocoa-nut, pine-apple, orange, grape,
peach, Indian corn, and strawberry. There is no particu
lar season for seed-time or harvest. Fields of maize may
be seen in every stage of growth, from the young and
tender blade just shooting upward into light, to the full
and ripened ear of harvest-time. From the same shrub
or tree may be enjoyed the fragrance of its flowers and
the flavor of its fruit.
Not less beautiful is Nature in her wildness than
when under the controlling influence of domestic culture.
* The average annual temperature is 71°.

SITE OF CITY.

H

Trees of magnificent growth, festooned with hanging
moss and pendant vines, their trunks and giant limbs
covered with parasitic plants of rich, brilliant hues, stand
alone in their majestic grandeur, or, by their united crowns
of fadeless green, bedecked with flowers of rare delicacy
and beauty, form picturesque bowers and arcades. Tow
ering' and crested pahns, with their plumes wafted by the
breezes, adorn aUke the forest and the plain -with their
stately, graceful forms. Giant vegetation, in that variety
and beauty elsewhere unknown, springs up on every side,
while amid and beneath all—
" There spring the living herbs, profusely wild.
O'er all the deep-green earth, beyond the power
Of botanists to number up their tribe."
Enclosing this beautiful valley, are lofty, rugged, and
barren mountain-cliffs, which break the strength of the
equinoctial winds, and shut out the burning atmosphere
of the plain on the coast. The contrast presented by
these barren ranges, and the stern, forbidding aspect of
their chilling peaks which rise into the region of the
clouds, only add to the loveliness of the valley which lies
encircled within their embrace. Here the sweeping pesti
lence is seldom known, for those lofty Cordilleras, which
serve as a barrier to the winds, also prevent an approach
of those maUgnant diseases which are the scourges of
southern ports. It seems scarcely possible that a spot
within the equatorial regions, less than five miles in a di
rect line fi-om where the earth is parched by the burning
heat of a tropical sun, could possess such a cool, salubri
ous climate, and the luxuries of both temperate and torrid
zones. At the western extremity of the valley, situated upon
a steep slope which inclines toward the southeast, is
Caracas, the capital of Venezuela. At the base of this

12 CAEACAS,
declivity, skirting the suburbs of the city, runs the
Rio Guaire, while crowding the town on the west are
rocky and sterile hills, which present a wild and gloomy
aspect. Rising abruptly on the north, is the Cerro de
Avila, down whose rugged slopes pour rushing torrents
into the streets of the city, whenever a storm sweeps over
the valley. Why Caracas was buUt in this wretched
corner, when so large and beautiful a plain lies spread out
before it, we cannot conceive. Could the town have been
placed farther to the southward amid the charming sce
nery of the valley, it would have occupied a site iu every
way far preferable to its present position. Caracas in its
greatest length is about one and a half miles, and is of
nearly an equal breadth. Its area, although small, has
crowded within its Umits a population of fifty thousand
inhabitants. Intersecting the city are deep ravines, some
of which are dry, others the channels of small rivers, the
Catuohe, Caroata, and Anauco, which descend fi-om the
mountains. The ghastly appearance of these immense
gullies, with their unsightly weeds and bushes, impresses
the traveller still more unfavorably with the situation of
the town. From the Rio Catuche the city is supplied
with water, which is brought from a reservoir about a
mile up the stream on the slope of Avila, and furnished
the inhabitants at j)ublic and private fountains.
Caracas, like all Spanish- American to-wns, is regularly
built, with narrow streets crossing each other at right
angles. These are well paved, and slope toward the cen
tre, thus making a sort of canal, which dispenses with
the need of gutters at the sides. The sidewalks, which
are found only on the principal streets, are flagged, and
scarcely wide enough to allow two persons to pass. The
houses enclose pleasant court-yards, are mostly one story
in height, and solidly built, so as better to resist the
shocks of earthquakes, which are frequent along this

HOUSES, 13
coast. Inside the court-yard, along the upper story,
where such exists, runs an open gallery, while a corre
sponding veranda generally extends outside, along the
front ofthe building. The roofs are tiled, and project far
over the walls of the houses, shading the narrow streets,
and affording protection to the pedestrian from the sun
and rains. The windows, unglazed, and covered with an
iron grating, protrude into the street, giving the house a
gloomy, prison-like aspect. The only way of ingress and
egress, the one used alike by man and beast, is through a
large archway, which leads into the court-yard. The
massive folding-doors, with their clumsy iron hinges,
bolts, and fastenings, seem as if made for a fortress. The
house internally is as scantily and antiquely furnished as
the exterior indicates. The parlor of the Venezuelian
boasts no carpet upon its brick floor; the walls are
scantily ornamented -with a few small pictures; one or
two cane-bottomed sofas, some plain chairs, and still
plainer tables, complete the furniture, useful and ornamen
tal. The house has no chimney, the smoke and steam
finding thek- exit from beneath the raised roof.
On the east side of the Gran Plaza, or great square
of the city, stands the new cathedral, the largest and
finest architectural structure in Caracas. It was founded
nearly three centuries ago, but has since been modernized,
being completed and consecrated during our visit at the
capital. It is two hundred and fifty-feet iu length, by one
hundred and fifty in breadth, and is supported by two
lines of gigantic columns. The floor is a marble mosaic,
while the walls are hung with tablets bearing Latin in
scriptions, and with paintings illustrative of Scriptural
history, or of Roman Catholic mythology. This struct
ure, although the pride of Caraquenians, will compare
but unfavorably with similar ecclesiastical efforts in coun
tries where civilization has made greater progress; but

14 CAEACAS,
we must consider that it has been erected by a people
struggling against all the evils which beset this unfortu
nate republic.
The government-house, which stands on the side of
the plaza opposite the cathedral, presents nothing attrac
tive. A Venezuelian flag floating from a short ^taff, and
a few soldiers guarding the front and entrance, alone indi
cate that it is the capitol of the repubhc. On the south
of the plaza is a university, founded in 1721, which ranks
as the finest institution of learning in the country. The
north side of the square is lined with dwellings and pvJr
perias, or shops. A Venezuelian store is one of the curi
osities of the country. The low, narrow room has two
doors, for the admission of persons and light. The stock
of the pulpero embraces, in kind, if not in quantity, suffi
cient to establish a country fair. A few pieces of caUco
and cotton cloth must occupy a prominent position upon
his shelves. He must have groceries of every description,
including hams, sardines, sausages, a few rounds, of cas-
save, the bread of the country we have yet to describe,
butter brought from Europe, some strips of dried beef, a
coil of native tobacco resembhng tarred rope, some bot
tles of Madeira and German -wines, and also aguardiente,
an intoxicating drink made from the fermented juice of
the sugar-cane. Then there are articles of hardware,
such as nails, knives, and machetes, a huge knife with a
blade nearly two feet in length, the indispensable imple
ment of the Spaniard. A dozen stalks of sugar-canes, a
few bundles of finely-split wood for fuel, and an armful of
green corn, occupy the corners. These, -with a thousand
other articles, render the collection as unique as a college
museum. There are scenes of a different nature that will interest
the traveller as he wanders through the city. On every
side will be seen traces of that terrible earthquake which

EAETHQUAKE OF 1812. ig
destroyed the town in 1812, and buried in its ruins over
ten thousand persons. Walls of buildings, overgrown
with vines and parasitic plants, still stand as silent wit
nesses of that dreadful catastrophe. It is sad to refiect
that this beautiful valley should ever have been the scene
of such a fearful visitation, and a living sepulchre to thou
sands of its inhabitants. The frequent threatenings of
these convulsions of Nature tend to keep the people in a
constant state of alai-m for their safety. Happy, indeed,
is the man who is not distrustful of the soil upon which
he lives. Among the few buildings which survived the
general destruction of the city, were the government-
house, the old cathedral, and the church of Altagracia,
which is not far from the Grand Plaza. The last men
tioned, however, bears evidence of the powerful agency
which desolated the place. Its massive walls withstood
uninjured the violence of the shock, but its enormous
tower, about one third of the distance from the top, was
twisted and jutted over the lower part, where it will
probably remain until another earthquake shall complete
its downfall. The destruction of Caracas occurred upon the 26th of
March, 1812, Ascension Day, or Holy Thursday of the
Church. The country was engaged in a desperate strug
gle for its independence, and the ignorant and supersti
tious people, -with their fears augmented by the priests,
whose sympathies were with the mother-country, were
led to regard the calamity as the vengeance of Heaven
for their attempts to sever themselves fi-om the crown of
Spain. The day is represented as perfectly calm, with
not a cloud in the heavens. Although at long intervals
quite severe shocks had been felt at Caracas, an almost
entire immunity from any of destructive force had in
spired a feeling of security, and led the people to believe
that, in their elevated valley, they were safe from such

10 CAEACAS.
fearful visitations, as frequently laid in ruins the cities of
other districts.* No one had any apprehension of danger.
The festivities of Holy Thursday had filled the churches.
Suddenly the earth trembles. The bells of the churches
toll as though " rung by an invisible hand." Caracas is
doomed. For four seconds the ground quakes, then rocks
with a sea-Uke movement, and in six seconds more the
city lies heaped in ruins. Heavy thunderings rolled be
neath the earth, and rocks were hurled from the sides of
La Silla. Of fifty thousand inhabitants, ten thousand were
killed upon the first overthrow of the city, while thou
sands afterward perished from injuries, hunger, and ex
posure. Beneath the walls of San Carlos six hundred
soldiers were mustering. The barracks, says a chronicler,
hurled from their base, left not a man of the regiment.
Terrible scenes has our earth afforded; but none more
' fearful than Caracas presented when the clouds of dust,
which at first veiled the ruins, lifted from the fated city.
The imagination alone can picture that scene of ghastly
ruins, terror, and consternation. So great was the num
ber of victims, that, interment being impossible, for days
the survivors were employed in collecting and burning
the bodies upon vast funeral-pyres. Humboldt, in his
graphic account of the fearful calamity, alluding to the
tolling of the bells by the short tremor which preceded
the final shock, pens the following thrilling sentence : " It
was the hand of God, and not the hand of man, -^^'hich
rang that funeral-dirge." f TJiis passage possesses a pecu
liar interest. While illustrating how powerfully Hum
boldt was impressed by the contemplation of this phe-
* The earthquake of Caracas was the culmination of a series of con
vulsions durmg the years 18I1-'13, felt through the West Indies and
over a large portion of the Mississippi A'alley,
f " Es war -Qoites, nicht Mcmchcnhand, die Mer num Grahgelaute
swang. "

PEOPLE. 117
nomenon, it also shows, as Agassiz, in an address given
upon the hundredth anniversary of the great German
naturalist, has remarked, that Humboldt was a beUever in
a personal, superintending Providence. This fact has
been so often denied, and Humboldt even pronounced an
atheist, that we feel the cause of truth justifies us in
making this slight digression.
Dr. Tschudi, in his " Travels in Peru, " uses the follow
ing language in illustrating the effects of an earthquake
upon the residents of the country and upon travellers :
" No familiarity with the phenomenon can blunt the feel
ings. The inhabitant of Lima, who from childhood has
frequently -witnessed these convulsions of Nature, is roused
from his sleep by the shock, and rushes from his apart
ment with the cry of '¦Misericordia ! ' The foreigner from
the north of Europe, who knows nothing of earthquakes
but by description, waits with impatience to feel the
movement of the earth, and longs to hear with his own
ear the subterranean sounds which he has hitherto con
sidered fabulous. Witli levity he treats the apprehen
sion of a coming convulsion, and laughs at the fears of
the natives ; but, as soon as his wish is gratified, he is
terror-stricken, and is involuntarily prompted to seek
safety in flight. "
The inhabitants of Caracas, ethnologically and so
cially, present but few interesting features. The entire
population of the city, as near as can be estimated, is fifty
thousand ; while that of the whole republic, including In
dians, is one and a half millions. It consists of whites,
mainly of Spanish extraction, negroes, and the various
classes produced by the intermingling of these. The
descendants of the foreign element, of whatever color, are
denominated Creoles.
The negroes were formerly kept in slavery; but by
virtue of a law which compelled the master to give free-

] 8 CAEACAS.
dom to a slave who should offer him three hundred dol
lars ; by the voluntary bestowment of Uberty, which was
common ; and by the proclamation of 1854, they have all
become emancipated. The Indians we shall have occa
sion to speak of, when our joumeyings lead us where man
as well as beast exists in a state of nature.
In dress, the upper class follow the European styles ;
the man of modest pretensions considers himself equipped
when supplied with pantaloons, camisa worn outside
of the former, wool or panama hat, and leather sandals.
The children of the lower class are not inconvenienced by
clothing, until they have attained the age of eight or ten
years, when a camisa constitutes their outfit.
Education, although pro-vided for by law, is sadly
neglected among all classes. Besides the university in
Caracas, already referred to, there has also been founded
a military academy. The need of books is much felt.
None are printed in Venezuela, and the foreign supply is
small and not of the highest order. It is, however, grati
fying to state that much has been done of late to meet
this want of the peoj)le, and that no country has contrib
uted more to supply the deficiency than our o"wii. School-
books, as well as others, published in the Spanish lan
guage and sent out from the United States, have been
widely circulated, and are now doing much toward the
advancement of educational interests in Venezuela. There
are in Caracas two printing-presses, each of which issues
a daily newspaper on a single sheet. Much difficulty is
experienced in preser-\'ing records, books, or papers, owing
to the ravages of termites, or " white ants," as they are
called, which possess an insatiable appetite for Uterature.
This was more particularly brought to our notice after
ward at Valencia, where we found it difficult to procure,
for the use of our herbarium, any papers which had not
been more or less damaged by these voracious insects.

EELIGION— CEMETEEIES. ig
There are eighteen churches in. Caracas and three con-
A'ents; the last are merely tolerated, as no monastic in
stitutions are permitted by law in Venezuela. Here, as in
every Roman Catholic country, the Sabbath is but little
regarded. The services in the churches, the same as those
for the other days of the week, continue for one hour,
from five to six o'clock in the morning, when the religious
exercises of the day are over. All places of amusement
and pubUc resort are then opened and thronged as they
are at no other time. The card and billiard tables are fre
quented, but the cock-fights and bull-fights call together
the greatest crowds. Sabbath afternoons are especially
consecrated to the latter amusement. The cock-fight
partakes more of a domestic character, and there is scarce
ly a family that has not its cockpit. All day long the
shops are opened for traffic, mules and donkeys laden
-with merchandise wend their way through the streets,
soldiers parade the city, and, to destroy still more if pos
sible the quietness and sanctity of the Sabbath, the bells
are in an eternal jingle. In the evening the theatre
affords the closing entertainment of the day.
Caracas has six Catholic cemeteries ; the largest, which
is said to be the finest in South America, is north of the
city, upon the slope at the base of Cerro de AvUa. It is
enclosed by a high wall, on the inside of which are niches,
or receptacles for the dead. Upon the payment of a cer
tain sum, coffins are allowed to be placed within, where they
may remain three years. At the expiration of that time
they are taken, if not removed before by friends, and the
bones cast in the carnero, or common sepulchre. Those
who do not desire, or cannot afford for their deceased rela
tives, these funereal niches, bury at once within the en
closure of the cemetery. There are also two Protestant
burial-grounds, German and English, situated south of
the city.

CHAPTER III.
EXCUESIOSrS ABOUT CAEACAS.
Trip to the Cave of Encantado. — Eailroad. — Thunder-storm, — Petare,— A
Hopeful Student. — Experience at a Posada. — The Cave, — ^Pineapple-
Plant.— Calabash-Tree.— Yuca-Shrub.— Death of Mr. Wilson.— El
Valle. — Cerro de AvUa.
DuEiiTG- our stay at Caracas we made many excursions
to places of interest in the valley ; the first of which was
to the Cave of Encantado, four leagues east of the city.
On the morning of our fourth day in the capital, we set
out for this jjlace. Tlie sun had not risen, yet the streets
of the city were already bustling with life — for the
Spaniard is an early riser, the morning being, more from
necessity than choice, the business jpart of the day. Scores
of water-carriers hastened along with their immense earth
en j)ots, balanced upon their lieads— burdens are seldom
carried in the hand ; while donkeys, so completely buried
beneath their loads of maize that they seemed like piles
of herbage endowed with locomotion, pushed stubbornly
through the street.
Crossing the Anauco, the stream which forms the
eastern boundary of the city, we passed at our left a line
of railway. The track, which was overgrown -with grass
and weeds, terminated a short distance farther on. It had
been purposed to carry it to Petare, but, like all Venezue
lian enterprises, the affair had come to an untimely end.

A THUNDEE-STOEM. 21
At our right was a large coffee-estate, the shrubs shaded
by gigantic trees whose trunks and brawny arms were
clothed with parasitic plants, and hung with long, tangled
tufts of Tillandsise, that gray moss which so ornaments
our own Southern forests. On either side, the road was
hedged with trees and bushes, thickly interlaced -with vines
and creeping plants. These at length gave place to rows
of mango-trees, whose arching boughs, spread with dark-
green foliage, formed a most beautiful arcade. The mango,
which to us seemed possessed of no particular gustatory
virtues, is considered by the natives' as one of the finest
of tropical fruits.
About ten a. m., while enjoying our breakfast of
oranges and bananas, we were forced by a sudden shower
to seek shelter in a way-side pulperia. A thunder-storm
in the tropics is an incredible exaggeration of a northern
tempest. The rain does not spatter down in drops, but
falls in almost unbroken sheets of water, which in a few
minutes completely flood the earth. The thunder and
lightning which accompany these showers in the elevated
regions of the country are generally " moderate in quan
tity but inferior in quality ; " yet on the Llanos of the in
terior they are in good keeping with the terrific storms
which sweep over those plains.
Our visit to Caracas was during the rainy season,
which commences about the last of April, and continues
until November. It must, however, not be supposed that
even during this season the sky is continuaUy overcast with
clouds which are incessantly discharging their contents
upon the land. The showers generaUy last only a few
minutes, seldom half an hour, when they cease as suddenly
as they commence. The annual fall of rain is about thu-ty-
five inches ; the time of greatest heat is during the wet
period. This regular alternation of the seasons in the val
leys of Caracas and Valencia is not, however, the same

22 EXCUESIONS ABOUT CAEACAS.
everywhere within the tropics, for in certain locaUties
various causes tend to modify essentially the tropical sea
sons, which in sections often not far separated, but per
haps upon opposite sides of mountain-ranges, are frequently
the reverse of each other.
Late in the afternoon we reached Petare, a town of
four or five thousand inhabitants ; and it being stUl a
league farther to Encantado, over an unfrequented road,
requiring a guide that could not be had until morning,
we determined to spend the night here. After consider
able difficulty we at length found a house labeUed "Po
sada," where accommodations were offered us. While din
ner was preparing, which was promised luego (presently),
we strolled about, making a general inspection of the
establishment. In the largest apartment, and in real
ity the only respectable one, was a billiard-table, which
seemed the centre of attraction to a crowd of men and
boys., among whom was an Englishman, who was wander
ing about the world with apparently no fixed object, and
had happened into this out-of-the-way place. He was
not inclined to give much of his history, leaving us to
draw our own inferences. There was also a young Span
iard of quite an intelligent and prepossessing appearance,
who, learning we were Americans, brought us a copy of
an old EngUsh book of poetry, and repeated from it long
sections that he had memorized, but of the meaning of
which he had not the vaguest conception. He informed
us that he was desirous of acquiring the EngUsh lan
guage ; and for that purpose he was committing to memo
ry the contents of the volume. He said that he found the
task an exceedingly difficult one, and that he had as yet
made no very satisfactory progress. We did not doubt
the truth of his statement. He, however, seemed confi
dent of ultimate success, and expressed a desire to obtain
from us other English beoks, that he might prosecute his

EXPERIENCE AT A POSADA. 23
Studies. A more hopeful student under such adverse cir
cumstances we have seldom met -with.
From the long time which had intervened siuce our
order for dinner, we began to apprehend that, perhaps,
our host had forgotten the wishes of his hungry guest';
but, upon inquiry, we were comforted with the assurance
that it would be ready luego. Another hour of waiting,
and again we seek the cause. " Paciencia, seiiores,
luego ; " but that was long since exhausted. A traveUer
in this country will have abundant opportunity to exercise
his paciencia, for luego and manana, presently and to-mor
row, are words in frequent requisition among the Span
iards, and are used in their broadest signification. Never
punctual, never in a. hun-y, are prominent characteristics
of this people. The meal was finally announced. In a
small room, upon a small table, was the food, which had
cost them so much labor and us so much patience. We
allow that the best had evidently been done to meet our
wants, but confess that we formed no very high opinion
of the ability displayed in the preparation of the meal.
Early the foUo-wing morning, having passed the night
in unsuccessful efforts to protect ourselves from the per
sistent attacks of fleas, we gave a consideration of three
dollars, for the annoyance and suffering we had endured,
and, taking our guide, started for the Cave of Encantado.
Our road was simply a narrow foot-path, which led around
the base of densely-wooded hills, and then over a moun
tain-range, the summit of which we reached just as the sun
was appearing over the top of La Silla. We shall not soon
forget that glorious prospect. Clouds, with their upper
surface brilliant with the rising sun, filled the valleys be
neath us, while, piercing this sea of mist, the cragged peaks
of La SUla rose majestically above the lower mountains,
which here and there scarcely pushed their summits above
the surface of the vapor-ocean. From the mountain we

24 EXCURSIONS ABOUT CAEACAS.
descended into a valley through which rushed a broad,
rapid torrent, on whose opposite bank, directly in our
front, rose a perpendicular wall of limestone, in the face of
which, fifteen feet fi-om the base, was the entrance to the
Cave of Encantado. Clambering up the cliff, we found our
selves within a large, irregular, arched chamber, adorned
with beautiful stalactic formations. Diverging from this
chamber, are dark, contracted passage-ways, leading to
smaller apartments, the principal of which we entered, often
obliged to crawl upon hands and knees to gain admittance.
Swarms of bats, disturbed by our intrusion within their
haunts, hovered around us, maldng the place hideous with
their unearthly screechings. Shooting one of the creatures
only tended to arouse the others the more, while the deaf
ening report of our gun, reverberating through the
cavern, fell with stunning effect upon our ears. Having
explored the cave, we dismissed our guide, purposing to
remain through the night, and return to Caracas on the
follo"wing day. We spent the night within the cave, where
upon our rocky beds, softened by -crild-canes, we, undis
turbed by our companion bats and owls, enjoyed a rest,
free fi-om the fleas of Petare.
Our visit to Encantado afforded us a most glorious
harvest of plants, the first gathering for our tropical her
barium. Not a single species was familiar ; yet some
were so closely allied to varieties in our own land as to
pleasantly recall many a botanical ramble there. Our re
turn trip also introduced us to several interesting prod
ucts of the mountain valley of Caracas, among which
was the pineapple. There is, perhaps, no production of
the tropics which is so generally and deservedly esteemed
by the people of the North as this; yet of none have they
such vague ideas, as to manner of growth and propaga
tion. The pineapj)lc-j)lant (Ananassa saliva) is indi
genous to tropical America, growing Avild in the forests,

PINEAPPLE-PLANT, 25
but cultivated largely in those regions, in the West Indies,
and on the Eastern Continent. It has fifteen or more long,
serrated, ridged, sharp-pointed leaves, springing from the
root, and in its general aspect resembles the century-plant,
but is much smaller. In the centre of this cluster of thick,
succulent leaves, springs up a short stalk, bearing a spike
of beautiful flowers, which in time produce a single pine
apple. On the summit of the fruit is a tuft of small leaves,
capable of becoming a new plant, which, together with
suckers, is the means by which it is propagated, as the
cultivated fruit seldom produces seeds. It flourishes best
in a moist and warm climate, but is able to survive a long
drought and extreme heat. There are several varieties,
differing in their leaves being more or less spiny on their
margins, and in the shape, size, and color of the fruit.
Great care is requisite in its cultivation ; otherwise it will
be coarse, fibrous, and deficient in saccharine matter.
Nothing can surpass the rich and delicate flavor of a pine
apple which has been properly cultivated ; or of the wild
fruit of the forests, which we always found equal, if not
superior, to the domesticated ones.
Of the arboreal productions of these j)laius, especially
interesting is the calabash or crockery-tree {Crescentia
cujete), which is seen growing by the side of every
Venezuelian hut. In size and appearance it resembles
an apple-tree, and yields a hard, roundish, ligneous-
shelled fruit, from three to twelve inches in diameter,
which supplies the natives with cups, dishes, and many
useful utensils. They are sometimes fancifully carved,
or highly polished, and by the natives of the Ama
zons* are beautifully tinted with various colors, both
mineral and vegetable substances being employed for the
purpose. But another more indispensable plant which
* This name in Portuguese and Spanish is Amazonas, and when An
glicized the plural form should be retained.

26 EXCUESIONS ABOUT CAEACAS.
we here found is the yuca,* or mandioca {Manihot utilis-
sima), a shrub some ten to twelve feet in height, from the
larffe tubers of which are made the cassava of the Vene-
zuelian, and the farina of the Brazilian. The tubers are
first grated upon a concave board, thickly set with sharp
pieces of quartz gravel. The pulp is rendered still finer
by grinding -with stones, and the pulverized mass sub
jected to pressure for the purpose of removing, as far as
possible, its poisonous juice, which contains hydrocyanic
or prussic acid. The substance is then formed into round
cakes, two feet in diameter, and a quarter of an inch in
thickness, and baked upon concave plates, over a brisk
fire, which expels the remaining volatile juice. Farina,
the same as the maiioca of the Rio Negro and Upper Ori
noco, is made similarly, only the meal is constantly stirred
while roasting. In these forms the yuca constitutes
an excellent and nutritious food, which retains its sweet
ness for a long period. The mandioca, or yuca, is exten
sively cultivated throughout the continent of South
America, and, wdth the plantain and banana, constitutes,
in many sections, the principal support of the people.
Tapioca of commerce is the sediment, obtained fi-om the
expressed juice of the mandioca. This plant must not be
confounded with the yuca dulce, or sweet yuca [Manihot
aipium), a species similar in appearance, but which con
tains none of the poisonous property of the first. The
former is prefered for cassava and manoca, as it is richer
in fecula, while the latter is largely eaten as a vegetable.
Our return from Encantado was followed by the death
of Mr. Wilson, our minister, who contracted a fatal fever
while attending diplomatic business at La Guaira, upon
the coast. He was buried at Caracas, far away from
home and those he loved. But a few weeks previous to
his death, his family, who had been "with him, returned to
* Somethnes misspelt j/ucca, a plant to which it is in nowise allied.

EL VALLE.

27

then- country, where he expected to join them soon. The
tidings of his death and burial, carried by the departing
steamer, were the only greeting for the waiting ones.
Among the many places of interest in the vicinity of
Caracas, that wiU repay a visit, is El Valle, half a league
south of the capital. Leaving the city by the route
which leads to the plains of Ooumare, the traveller
crosses the Rio Guaire, and ascends a gentle slope,
which brings him to the summit of a low range of hills.
This road passes over the ridge by a deep cut, made
through the soft micaceous rock, rendering the ascent an
easy one. Emerging fi-om this gorge, there opens before
the observer a most fertile plain, presenting a beautiful
picture of waving grass and cultivated fields, dotted here
and there with haciendas and hamlets, nestled beneath the
shade of graceful pahns. The posada and few houses
which bear the name of El Valle lie just a little distant
from where the traveUer catches his first glimpse of the
valley. Botanical and zoological attractions led us to
make several excursions to this picturesque spot, fi-om
which we always returned richly laden with collections.
The ascent of La Silla promised excitement enough to
awaken a strong desire in us for a climb to its summit ;
but the continuous rains which prevailed during our stay
at Caracas, rendered impracticable the scaUng of the steep,
slippery heights of the mountain. But the accessible
slope directly under Cerro de Avila, clothed -with magueys
and cactuses, and traversed by the wooded ravine of the
Catuche, was a most interesting spot, especially to the
naturaUst ; accordingly we planned a trip there. Follow
ing up the river, the ascent was easy to the Toma de Agua,
a large reservoir fi-om which the city receives its supply
of water. From here the gorge was deeper, and more
densely wooded, and we advanced with greater difficulty.
The trees attained no great size, yet some of the smaller

28 EXCURSIONS ABOUT CAEACAS.
forms of vegetation were of gigantic proportions. We
found a species of equisetum which was twelve feet in
height, and we were assured by Mr. Ernst that it fre
quently attains a height of over thirty. Epiphytes, usu
ally called air-plants, so covered the Umbs of the trees,
that it was often difficult to determine whether what they
concealed was alive, or in a state of decay. Some of the
flowers of these orchidaceous plants are of exceeding
beauty, resembUng in shape, and surpassing in the bril
liancy of their colors, winged insects. The butterfly-flow
er {Oncidium p>apillio) is one of fhe most beautiful, and
is so similar in appearance to the insect whose name it
bears, that it not unfrequently deceives persons unac
quainted with it. Others look Uke humming-birds, ght
tering with metallic lustre. Many animated objects of
Nature are thus imitated by Flora's kingdom of the
tropics. We followed the ravine until the steepness of the as
cent and the density of vegetation rendered farther ad
vance exceedingly laborious ; when we climbed the high
banks that enclosed the gorge, and emerged upon the
open slope. The contrast between the vegetation in the
deep glen, and that of the sunburnt side of the moun
tain, was no less striking in the different degrees of luxu-
riousness than in the specific peculiarity of distinct forms.
In this rocky soil, which for several months during the
year is not moistened by a single refreshing shower,
thrive only plants that are capable of enduring a long
season of drought, such as the maguey and cactus. The
straight, cylindric, and spiny trunks of cerei rise thirty
and forty feet in height amid straggling opuntite, whose
grotesque forms lend such a peculiar physiognomy to this
tropical landscape. A species of this consolidated form
of vegetation, tho prickly-pear cactus (Ojnmtia tuna), is
cultivated by the Venezuelians for the sake of its edible

THE MAGUEY.

29

fruit, and is also employed for hedges, its spiny, branch
ing stems admirably adapting it to that purpose.
There are two varieties of the maguey, differing in the
leaves of one being serrated while those of the other are
entire. The spreading panicle which shoots up from the
cluster of fleshy, sharp-pointed leaves, five to eight feet
in length, has straw-colored, liliaceous flowers pendulous
from the branches. At a distance the giant flower- stalk
resembles a tree in foliage, but on a nearer view the ar
borescent plant exhibits its true nature and beauty. We
measured the stem of one, which was twenty inches in cir
cumference at the base and thirty-eight feet in height, a
gro-wth it had made in six or eight weeks. The maguey
is not only admired for its beauty, but also valued for the
uses to which it can be applied. From the fibres of its
leaves are made t-wme, rope, cloth, and hammocks, while
the thorn which arms their extremity, when removed with
a bundle of the attached fibres, furnishes a needle and
thread. The leaves furthermore yield an excellent deter
gent, that washes equally well with salt water or fresh.
From the flower-stalk is obtained an excellent beverage,
while the pith of the stem, which contains silica, makes
excellent razor-strops. This plant, the Tucca acaulis of
Humboldt, and the Codonocrinum agavoides of Willde-
now, proves to be the Fourcroya gigantea of Ventenat.
It is often mistaken for the Agave Americana, or cen
tury-plant, which it resembles in its leaves, but from which
it differs essentially in its flowers and inflorescence ; those
of the latter terminating the branches in erect clusters,
instead of being scattering and pendulous, as we have ob
served, in the former. We cUd not see the Agave Ameri
cana in Venezuela, although it is said to grow in some
districts of the littoral mountains.

CHAPTER IV.
VALLEYS OF AEAGUA AND VALENCIA.
Departure from Caracas. — Scenery of the Eio Guaire. — Beautiful View
from Mount Higuerote, — The " Garden of Venezuela." — Victoria, —
Spanish Extortion, — A Word on Mules. — ^Venezuelian Coaches. — Mara-
cai. — CastUian Etiquette. — Fast in a Stream. — Entrance into Valen-^
cia. — The City. — Lake Tacarigua.
Aetee two weeks spent in the beautiful valley of Ca
racas, we left the capital for Valencia, the second city of
Venezuela, situated a hundred mUes to the westward, upon
the shores of the picturesque lake whose name it bears.
Unfortunately, we were in the midst of the rainy season,
and the roads were now impassable by the stages which
run between the two cities. Moreover, the country was
suffering from one of its chronic revolutions, and roving
bands of outlaws interrupted communication, respecting
the persons or property of neither friend nor foe. How
ever, we determined to undertake the journey, arming
ourselves well, in case of emergency. In lieu of stage-
conveyance, we contracted for mules to Victoria, a town
midway between Caracas and Valencia, paying ten ^esos *
for each, just one-tenth the value of the beast, aud an equal
amount for a muchacho, or muleteer, which proved near
his whole valuation.
* The peso is the Spanish dollar, whose value is eighty cents.

SCENEEY OF THE RIO GUAIRA, 31
At three o'clock, upon the morning of the 15th of Au
gust, we were riding rapidly through the streets of the
slumbering capital, scarcely able to keep pace with our
muchacho, who ran by the side of the baggage-animals.
Our course led us along the Rio Guaire through a most
charming valley, whose beauty was enhanced bythe light
of a full moon, which threw weird shadows do-wn the bro
ken slopes of the precipitous mountains that rose upon
either side. Just as we were falling into a poetical mood,
we were aroused by the imperative demands of a toll-gate
official, to whom we paid twenty-five cents for each mule,
which exorbitant exaction destroyed our good-humor for
the remainder of the day. The river, along which we
journeyed was bordered with cana hrava, a gramineous
plant {G-ynerium sacharoides), which attains a height of
fifteen to twenty feet, and is much used in the construc
tion of fences and buildings. The declivities were cov
ered with magueys, the last we met with in the country.
Often have we recalled the giant form of this arborescent
plant, which lends so strange a beauty to the landscape
of its mountain-home.
At length we commenced the ascent of Higuerote, still
following the course of the Guaire, which takes its rise
among the elevated peaks of this mountain-range. In
places the road led through deep ravines along the stream,
then over rugged summits, and on the steep side of preci
pices, while far below we beheld the rushing torrent of the
Guaire as it went plunging and foaming do-wn the heights
through rocky gorges worn by the incessant flow of waters
for many ages. After an easy ascent, but one difficult and
wearisome when made with a coach, we arrived at the
summit, where we were greeted with one of Nature's finest
pictures. Beneath us was one of the far-famed valleys of
Aragua, bounded by wooded slopes, upon which here and
there a hut was nestled in some quiet nook amid growing

32 VALLEYS OF ARAGUA AND VALENCIA.
corn and bananas, while far down in the lovely glen there
flowed a rivulet, which added its waters to those of the
larger stream that bears the name of the picturesque and
luxuriant valley through which it passes. The extent of
the prospect was not so great but that the whole could be
embraced at a single glance, and every portion, even the
most distant, was so distinctly seen that it appeared Uke
a vast picture set in bold relief before our vision. Many
were the glorious scenes we enjoyed in our tropical wan
derings, some wilder, more romantic, surpassing by far, in
grandeur, any we ever beheld in our own land ; yet this
view from Higuerote seemed to excel them all, and left an
impression upon the memory which the lapse of time can
never efface.
Along the southern declivity of the mountain-range,
bounding upon the north the valley we have described, is
the road, cut from the soft micaceous rock, which leads by
a gentle descent into the plain below. About half the
distance down we halted at a wretched venta for rest and
breakfast. With hunger half appeased by a scanty meal,
we again mounted and were on our way. The mountain
side along which we were travelUng received the full bene
fit of a tropical sun, and, as mid-day approached, the heat
became most oppressive. We were often tempted within
the cool retreat of some shaded glen, such as were fre
quently crossed as we zigzagged down the Cordillera into
tlie valley beneath us. But our destination for the night
was a long journey ahead, and we urged our animals for-
v/ard. The descent was at length completed, when we entered
the valley, which, narrow at first, gradually -widened as
we advanced, spreading out into a broad and beautiful
plain, which is one of the great coffee-regions of the world.
The valleys of Aragua have been fitly called the " Garden
of Venezuela." Their elevation is nearly two thousand

THE " GARDEN OF VENEZUELA." 33
feet above the sea, one-half that of the table-lands of Ca
racas, and the average temperature during the day is 70°
to 75° Fahr., falling at night to about 60°. The soil is
most fertile, and every product of the tropics, with many of
northern latitudes, flourishes luxuriantly. Coffee is, how
ever, the great staple of these regions. As we approached
Victoria, we passed extensive estates of this shrub, shaded
by gigantic trees to prevent the rapid absorption of moist
ure from the soil, and to protect the ripening berry from
the bui-ning heat of the sun. Great care in cultivation is
bestowed on these coffee-groves, and the harvest yielded
is proportionally fine ; the berry being of a superior qual
ity, and the quantity greater than in most other places
where the shrub is cultivated. Wheat was formerly raised,
and produced, according to Humboldt, nearly sixteenfold;
but, notwithstanding this large return, the greater profit
from the culture of coffee, cacao, and cotton, has caused
the cultivation of wheat to be wholly neglected, and the
demand for it is now supplied from the States. We saw
none of this cereal growing in the country, but were
informed that in the provinces of Merida and TrujiUo
there is sufficient raised to supply the demands of these
districts. It was nearly dark when we entered Victoria and
reined our jaded animals up in front of quite a respect-
able-appeaiing posada. Weary and sore from our journey
of sixteen leagues over a rough mountain-road, we gladly
alighted from our saddles. A call for dinner was answered
by eight o'clock, when we sat down to our meal, which we
enjoyed with a keen reUsh, notwithstanding the successful
efforts of the cooks in destroying the natural flavor of
every dish -with the inevitable garlics.
In our wearied condition we were not, perhaps, in the
best humor to spare the feelings of our precious muchacho
— we recalled our paying ten pesos for his invaluable ser-

34 VALLEYS OF AEAGUA AND VALENCIA.
vices — who had lost by the way one of our herbariums,
filled with choice plants. The loss was an irreparable one ;
for many of the species were known only to the high table
land and mountains of Caracas, where they had been col
lected, and consequently could not now be replaced.
The imposition again practised upon us in making ar
rangements for the prosecution of our journey was the
next thing to destroy our equanimity, and to persuade
us, if not already convinced, that Venezuelian officials
and posctderos possess the fewest virtues of any mortals
we were ever privileged to meet. Our mules, which had
been engaged only to Victoria, were not allowed to go
farther, and others could not be obtained. We therefore
made a trial of coaches, which our host, who monopolized
this business in Victoria, furnished us for the moderate
sum of sixty pesos. This was the price of a single day's
ride in one of the miserable, wheeled arrangements of tho
country. Nor did this include the keeping of the driver
and horses by the way. Such is VenezueUan extortion to
which the traveller in these fair lands is subject.
We will here add, for the benefit of any who may fol
low us over this route through Northern Venezuela, that
complete arrangements should be made for the entire
journey at Caracas or Valencia, whichever place may be
the starting-point. If you are not familiar with the
Spanish language, procure an interpreter, who can al
ways be had, to make the bargain for you, being particu
lar to mention everything, and have all agreed upon,
even to the feed for your animals, and also the toll whicli
may be extorted by the way. An occasional cigar and
glass of aguardiente will also be expected by your mule
teer. The journey is most easily performed by mules.
Be contented -with allowing the beast to choose his own
time for accomplishing the distance. Like his counter
part, his master, he is a subtle animal ; if not deceitful

SPANISH EXTORTION. 35
above all things, at least desperately wicked. With a lit
tle experience, however, you wUl soon learn to manage the
creature, so that no difficulty need be apprehended. You
cannot change his -wily nature ; but do not call it forth by
placing yourself in violent opposition to his will.
Punctuality is not one of the virtues of VenezueUaus ;
we were, therefore, not surprised that it was fully an hour
late in the morning when the wretched conveyance, in
which we were to be dragged to Valencia, was ready for
us. The prospect of a discomforting journey in no way
allayed our feelings of indignation which we entertained
for Venezuelian swindlers in general and our Victoria po-
sadero in particular. The coach in question was a sham
bling affair, drawn by three horses abreast, which were
from the roaming herds of the plains, and, before our
journey's end was reached, gave evidence that their -wild
and fractious nature had not been wholly subdued. Stow
ing ourselves and baggage as best we could inside of
the concern, the driver cracked his long raw-hide whip,
shouted at his fiery steeds, and away we dashed over the
stony pavement of the streets -with noise sufficient for a
train of artillery. Victoria is an unattractive town of
seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and of but little
commercial importance, although situated in the midst of
the rich gro-wing valleys of Aragua, and upon one of the
great thoroughfares of the republic. The valley here is a
league in breadth, but widens as it approaches the Lake of
Valencia, until, embracing that beautiful sheet of water,
it expands into the broad plain bearing the same name.
The villages of San Mateo and Turmero were passed,
when we came in sight of the Saman de Giiere, an enor
mous tree of the mimosa family, whose large hemispheri
cal top looks more like a forest-crowned peak than the
summit of a single tree. The height of this giant of the
vegetable kingdom is only about sixty feet, with the cir-

36 VALLEYS OF ARAGUA AND VALENCIA.
cumferencc of its trunk thirty, dimensions less than those
of other trees of the same kind growing in the vicinity.
But its beauty and attraction consist in the extension of
its branches, which spread out on every side to the dis
tance of nearly a hundred feet, making a spherical sum
mit of about six hundred feet in circumferelice. Its small,
j)innated leaves form a most delicate foliage, which con
trasts curiously -with the gigantic size of the tree, and add
greatly to its beauty. The age of the Saman de Giiere
must be very great, for tradition only tells of its anti
quity. It was held in great veneration by the natives at
the time of the Spanish Conquest, and is now carefuUy
preserved by the government. Humboldt makes mention
of it, as seen by him during his visit to the country in
1800, when it was, he says, in the same state of preserva
tion in which the first conquerors found it. It has since
been observed Avith increased interest and attention by
travellers, and no change has been noticed in its appear
ance during the half century or more that has foUowed.
But there it stands, green and vigorous, as in the days
when first the aborigines of the country reclined in the
shade of its forest-top, even then rocked by the blasts of
many ages. It is more than probable that it wUl -with
stand for centimes yet to come the fury of tropical tem
pests, an object of wonder and reverence to the traveller
who shall journey through the valley of Aragua.
Four leagues westward of Turmero, and six fi-om Vic
toria, is Maracai, a town of some eight thousand inhabit
ants, where we stopped for breakfast. For the first and
only time while in the country we saw a woman seat her
self at the table in company with men. Among the bet
ter class of Venezuelians it is customary for ladies to take
their meals in their rooms, having them brought by ser
vants ; while among the middle and lo-n'er classes the
women wait until their lords have eaten, when they take

FAST IN A STREAM. 37
possession of the table with what may be left, or, as is
more commonly the case, they crouch with the children upon
the ground in the corner, where from the iron pots they
take their food. The -wife of our host, disregarding this
custom of Spanish etiquette, placed herself with us at the
festive board, and together we enjoyed a pleasant repast.
After our mid-day siesta we left Maracai, and soon after
caught a glimpse of Lake Valencia, or Tacarigua, its In
dian name. The road thus far had been tolerably good,
but now became outrageously bad, so that our progress
was slow and laborious. Swollen streams rushing from
the mountain-sides crossed our path, occasioning us often
times no Uttle difficulty in fording. To add to the perplex
ities of the situation, our horses were weary, and began to
exhibit signs which forboded evil. We were making our
way over the plain which borders the lake upon the north,
at times riding quite briskly over a smooth patch of road,
and then floundering through mud hub-deep, when sud
denly we came to a halt. Putting our heads out of the
open sides of the coach to learn the cause of our stopping,
we discovered ourselves in the middle of a broad stream ;
the horses standing composedly in the water with a mali
cious look of self-satisfaction at our ludicrous position.
Yes, there we were, and no amount of coaxing or lashing
could induce the obstinate brutes to budge. To the re
peated blows of the driver, they responded with kicks,
thro-wing mud and water in a most spiteful manner in
every direction, until one at length threw himself com
pletely out of the harness. Seeing that our present mode
of procedure was not Ukely to avail us much but kicks
and a liberal sprinkling with the contents of the stream,
we concluded to alight, in hopes that the rebellious crea
tures might then, perhaps, be induced to extricate the
concern. This was no sooner done than their ugliness
took a new direction, and, with a spring, they started

38 VALLEYS OF AEAGUA AND VALENCIA.
forward, purposing no doubt to leave us to our reflections,
which, just at that crisis of affairs, were in no very solenm
strain. Our driver, however, being on the alert, the crea
tures were checked in their career until we could regain
our seats, when the lines and the whip were both given,
and away we dashed wildly over the plain.
At five p. M. we reached the small vUlage of San
Joaquin, distant from Valencia six leagues. We had
been so detained by the badness of the roads, and the re
fractory performances of our steeds, that we concluded to
pass the night at this place. At the early hour of three
in the morning we were served bread and coffee by our
pompous host, who, to lessen the trouble of dressing, had
wrapped himself in his blanket. We were soon on our
way, riding rapidly over the bed of an ancient lake, which
formerly covered the entire plains of Aragua and Valen
cia. Leaving the rich and beautiful regions of Aragua
and Maracai, we entered upon a broader plain, formed by
the receding of the hills to a greater distance from the
lake. Bushes and stunted trees, alternating -with belt*
of grass-growing land, were the features which the land
scape now presented. We drove for miles, meeting with
only an occasional hut on a cultivated plot. Within half
a mile of Valencia we passed to our right the Morro, a
rocky and precipitous semi-isolated hill, from whose sum
mit can be obtained one of the finest views of the plain
and lake.
It was eight a. m. when the rumbling of our coach
through the streets of Valencia announced to its inhab
itants an arrival, which is not an every-day occurrence,
but an event to be signalled by a general cessation of
business, and a simultaneous appearance of a multitude
of heads from windows, doors, and balconies. Crossing
the Rio de Valencia, a stream which flows through the
city, we passed up the principal street amid staring

ENTEANCE INTO VALENCIA. 39
crowds, and stopped at the posada of La BeUa Alanza, on
the eastern side of the Gran Plaza. Immediately the
posadero, guests, porters, cooks, and a whole retinue of
attendants, came rushing out, and besieged us on every
side, so that -with difficulty we forced an entrance to the
apartment we were to occupy. Our baggage was seized
by three times the number needed to carry it, and was
followed by as many more, who came thronging into our
room, which they so filled that we were scarcely able to
move. Their curiosity becoming somewhat satisfied when
they had seen and examined every thing it was possible to
get hold of, they gradually withdrew, until we were at
length left to ourselves.
The city of Valencia is situated in the midst of a most
salubrious and fertile valley, which, including the basin of
Aragua upon the east, and the grassy plains stretching
out upon the west, is about twenty-five leagues in length
and five in its greatest breadth. It is difficult to conceive
why Caracas, which is farther from the geographical cen
tre of the republic, and so difficult of access from the
coast, -with only an open roadstead for a port, should have
been preferred as the capital of Venezuela to the more
accessible and in every respect more desirable place of
Valencia, which is only fourteen leagues, by a splendid
road, fi-om one of the finest harbors in the world. Valen
cia has been a favored city ; it has never been sacked by
an invading army, never thro-wn down by an earthquake.
It was even spared by the tyrant Lopez de Aguu-re, whose
name spread such terror throughout the repubUc ; and the
¦wild Carib tribe, which came up in hordes from the Orinoco
to lay waste the place, were turned back before they had
crossed the borders of the plain. Contending parties in
the poUtical convulsions of later times have also chosen
other places in which to shed each other's blood. Not
withstanding, Valencia has advanced but slowly in growth

40 VALLEYS OF AEAGUA AND VALENCIA.
and prosperity. Its population of ten thousand, three-
quarters of a century ago, has scarcely doubled. The
most prominent part of the place, as of every Spanish
town, is the Gran Plaza, upon the north side of which
stands the cathedral, built more than two centuries ago.
On the south is the government-house of Carabobo, of
which state Valencia is the capital ; the remaining sides
of the square are occupied by hotels, shops, and private
residences. The city has four churches, and two others
in process of erection, but which it is more than probable
will never be completed. There is one regular newspaper,
but in times of revolution, which is the normal condition
of the country, two or three are issued.
Our first visit from Valencia was to the beautiful Lake
of Tacarigua, which, when the city was founded, in 1555,
was one-half league to the eastward, but, by the rapid
desiccation of that body of water, it is now distant over
two and a half leagues. Leaving the city by the road
which leads to Victoria, we soon reached Guias, a little
viUage one and a half league from Valencia ; and here,
abandoning the main highway, we followed a crooked
trail, which took us through a forest tract, then across
flourishing plantations of maize, bananas, and groves of
cocoa-nut trees, broken by stifling jungles of reeds and
bushes. It -n^as noon when we reached the western shores
of the lake ; when, oppressed by the heat of mid-day, we
threw ourselves beneath the grateful shade of trees at the
base of a wooded hill, which was at one time an island of
the lake, and enjoyed a view that has but few rivals in
beauty or interest upon either continent. Formerly, the
shores of the lake were the mountains which now form the
boundaries ofthe valleys of Aragua and Valencia; the
geological formations of the mountain-slopes, and their
fresh-water fossils [ampidlaria andplanorbis), embracing
species now inhabiting the lake, are unmistakable evidence

THE CITY. 41
of the extent of its ancient borders.* How rapid the
change of level was previous to the nineteenth century,
we have no exact means of estimating ; but, judging from
the increase in the rapidity of its shrinking since that
date, we infer that its rate of diminution formerly was
much slower than at present. The historian Oviedo states
that when Valencia was founded, in 1555, it was one-half
league distant from the western shore of the lake, and
Humboldt asserts that, according to his own measure
ment, in 1800, the town was a little more than twice that
distance from its borders, and that the lake was ten leagues
long, and nowhere over two or three leagues broad. The
last accurate observer also makes mention of there being,
at the time of his visit, fifteen islands, and also adds that
many formerly such had become, by the retreating of the
waters, attached to the main-land, forming promontories.
The lake at present is about eight leagues in length, with
its -width proportionally contracted. Within the last
three-quarters of a century, no islands have become at
tached to the shore, by the lowering of the waters ; but,
instead, seven new ones have appeared. The height of
the lake above the sea is nearly twelve hundred feet. The
water has a temperature of 75° to 80° Fahrenheit, and is
perfectly fresh, although stated by Eastwick as being
brackish. We used it exclusively during our stay upon
its borders. Humboldt found that the water upon evap
oration left only a small residuum of carbonate of lime,
and a little nitrate of potash.
The desiccation of this great basin of Valencia has
excited general interest, and is a matter of no small im
portance to the inhabitants of those regions. During the
last half-century the process has been going forward with
* These fossUs we found in strata often several feet in thickness ; in
the vicinity of the lake, the soil, in places, is largely composed of them.

42 VALLEYS OF AEAGUA AND VALENCIA.
increasing rapidity, and immense tracts of land, which
were formerly inundated, are now fertile and cultivated
plains ; as the country bordering the lake is so low and
level, that the lowering of a few inches in the surface of
the water lays dry a wide belt of land. The same nature
of the circumambient plain also causes considerable por
tions to be submerged during the rainy period of the
year, preventing the planting of maize at that season.
There are twenty-two streams, some of them of con
siderable size, that flow into the lake, but, as it has no dis
coverable outlet, the waters must be removed wholly by
evaporation. Of the quantity of water which empties into
the basin of Valencia, some idea may be formed from the
calculations of Cordazzi, in his jRes-Ctmen de la Geografm
de Venezuela, published in 1841. This "writer gives the
size of the lake as twenty-two square leagues, and the
area of the vaUeys of Carabobo and Aragua, which, from
their configuration, give their waters to the basin of Va
lencia, as eighty-six square leagues. This, united to the
twenty-two of the lake, gives a surface of one hundred
and eight square leagues, over which it is said there year
ly fall seventy-two inches of rain. This estimate "wiU en
able us to conceive how rapidly evaporation goes on in
the dry and heated atmosphere of the tropics. Certain
local causes have tended to greatly accelerate the desicca
tion of the lake. The mountains which enclose the basin
were formerly covered -with forest, which retained the
moisture of the earth, and produced copious springs that
fed the streams. This natural protection to the soU has
been removed, the land has become parched, streams
dried up, the heat of the valley augmented, and evapora
tion has consequently become more rapid. The Pao,
which was the largest river that flowed into the lake, was,
at the close of the seventeenth century, diverted from its
original channel for the purpose of iri-igating the country

LAKE TACAEIGUA. 43
to the southward, and its waters allowed to escape in the
Llanos. The low depression of the hills at the passage
of Bucarito was the outlet of the ancient lake ; a rise of
the water forty feet above its present level would cause
it to discharge as heretofore. In less than a century, at
the present accelerated rate with which its shores are re
ceding, desiccated plains, covered with gro-wing crops and
luxuriant verdure, -will mark the spot the lake now oc
cupies.

CHAPTER V.
VALENCIA AND PUEETO CAUELLO.
Hacienda of Mr. Glockler. — Coffee. — Cacao, — Tiger-Hunt, — A Tropical
Forest.— -Lost on the Mountains, — A Cheerless Night, — Exit from the
Wilds,— Return to Valencia, — ^Descent to the Sea-coast, — Papaw-
Tree, — " Cow-Tree." — Thermal Springs, — Discomforts of Life .at a
Hacienda. — Cocoa-Palm, — Mangroves,— Puerto Cabello,
While at Valencia, we made the acquaintance of Mr.
Glbckler, the German consul from Hamburg. Mr. Glock
ler was the owner of a large estate about two leagues
from the city, and thither he invited us for the purpose of
a tiger*-hunt among the mountains. The pleasing diver
sion which such an excursion promised, besides the oppor
tunity presented of making valuable collections from the
high altitudes of the CordiUeras, toward whose lofty sum
mits we had often cast a wistful eye durmg our abode
upon the plains, induced us to accept the proposal.
Leaving Valencia upon the road which leads to Puerto
Cabello, we soon abandoned it, and, turning to om- left,
crossed a ridge of hills which brought us into a finely-cul
tivated, lateral valley, opening upon the larger plain of
the lake. It was noon when we aUghted at the hacienda,\
one of the largest and finest we. saw in the country, where
* The Felis onia of naturalists ; generally known as the jaguar, or
American tiger.
f Hacienda is a term used to designate alike landed estate and the
usually large dwelling situated upon the same.

COFFEE. 45
we were kindly received and hospitably entertained. The
house, a low two-story structure, occupied one side of a
large court-yard of about half an acre in extent, which
was enclosed on the remaining sides by high walls,
and the small dwelUngs of the laborers of the hacienda.
Outside of the enclosure were cocoa-nut, orange, banana,
and lemon trees, loaded -with fruit in every stage of per
fection. Of the last mentioned there are t-wo species cul
tivated in Venezuela; one [Citrus ^jmon«Mm), the kind so
well known in commerce, the other ( Citrus lumia) a
sweet lemon, in which the acidity that belongs to the
other is entirely wanting.
The estate, which stretched far up the mountain ac
clivity, was devoted principally to coffee-raising. How
much might be written of coffee — its growth, uses, and
the influence which it exerts commercially, socially, and
physically ! The temperate valleys of Valencia and Ara
gua seem peculiarly adapted to its cultivation, the yield
being large, and the berry of a superior quality. The
site for a coffee-plantation must be such that it can be ir
rigated during the dry season ; and the shrubs need to be
shaded by large trees, to protect them from the scorch
ing rays of the sun. If grown from the slip, they will
produce their first crop the second year ; but usually not
much is expected until the third. The average annual
yield is one and a half or two pounds from each bush,
although sometimes as many as fifteen pounds are gath
ered from a single plant. The berries grow in fascicles,
or clusters, at the end of the branches, and, when ripe, re
semble an oblong cranberry.
Another product of these temperate valleys, one which
thrives most luxuriantly and forms one of the chief exports
of Venezuela, is cacao (Theobroma cacao), the chocolate-
tree. The cacao is a native of Central and South America,
and was unknown to the inhabitants of the Old World,

46 VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
until introduced after the discovery of the New. Among
the ancient Aztecs and Incas it was used as a medium of
exchange, besides affording them a most delicious bever
age and nutritious food. Bananas and the erythrina are
planted at the same time with the cacao; the former,
which is a very rapidly-growing plant, protects the cacao
during the first stages of its growth, being removed as
soon as the latter tree attains sufficient size to afford the
requisite shade. The cacao-plant seldom rises higher than
twenty feet, and commences to bear at the age of six or
seven years, yielding two crops annually for an indefinite
number of years. The manner in which the fruit grows,
attached to the trunks and large limbs of the trees, will
strike one as a little curious. It resembles a short, thick
cucumber, four or five inches long, and two and a half or
three inches in diameter, and contains thUty or forty
large, flat beans of a dark-brown color, enveloped in a
sweet pulp. One or one and a half pound is the average
annual yield of a single tree. Notwithstanding this small
return, it is an exceedingly lucrative branch of culture,
as a plantation, when once estabUshed, requires but little
attention beyond the harvesting of the crop.
Toward evening of the same day of our arrival at the
estate of the consul, we climbed the mountain to an upper
hacienda, also owned by him. On the way we w^ere shown
some hieroglyphics, sculptured upon the rocks, the work
of a civilization prior to the conquest. The designs were
those of animals and various other objects in nature,
rudely executed and still in a good state of preservation,
notwithstanding the rocks upon which they are carved
have been for centuries subjected to the destroying agen
cies of a tropical climate. On the old road over the moun
tains from Valencia to Puerto Cabello, and near the latter
place, are upon the rocks similar engravings, which must
be referred to the same origin and antiquity.

A TIGEE-HUNT. 47
Spending the night at the upper hacienda, at early
dawn we were preparing for the excursion of the day — a
tiger-hunt among the mountains. Hastily taking our
coffee, we mounted our saddles, and were on our way up
the CordUlera, attended by two natives and the hospitable
German who had charge of the hacienda. From time to
time in the ascent we caught a momentary glimpse of the
country below through openings in the white fleecy clouds,
but, as the highest point of observation was reached, the
mist was dispeUed, and we had before us a picture that
we shall long remember. As we cast our eyes downward,
almost beneath our feet we beheld the charming valley we
had left, and beyond, separated by a range of wooded
hills which appeared scarcely elevated above the sur
rounding level, was the fertile plain of Valencia, and still
farther on the Golden VaUeys of Aragua. There was the
city of Valencia, and beyond, in the midst of forest and
cultivated grounds, was that gem of lakes whose waters
gUstened under the light of the morning sun. To our left
and far distant rose semi-isolated mountains with barren
slopes and sharp summits, while to the southward were
the sierras of Nirgua and Guigiie, and beyond, range
after range piled itself against the sky. Rarely, indeed,
does the eye behold a more glorious prospect than is
gained from the lofty mountains of Valencia.
Leaving the animals in charge of one of the natives,
with instructions to wait until our return, and taking the
other -with us for a guide, we plunged into the dense for
est. He who is acquainted only -with northem woods can
have but a faint conception of the primeval forest of the
tropics. Gigantic trees rise to a height unkno-wn in tem
perate regions, displaying the greatest variety in the form
and aspect of their foliage. Towering and crested palms
shoot upward straight as an arrow, waving their pinion-
Uke leaves in the breezes. Arbarescent ferns and grasses,

48 VALENCIA AND PUEETO CABELLO.
thirty and forty feet in height, add their colossal forms to
the greater monarchs of the forest. Parasitic plants cover
the huge trunks and Umbs of the trees, and viues interlace
their wide-spreading branches, forming a thick, tangled
mass of verdure through which no ray of the sun ever
penetrates. Beneath, constituting what might be caUed
the lower stratum of vegetation, are bushes, ferns, and
creeping plants, which are so thickly interwoven as to
make a net-work that is almost impenetrable. The earth
is densely carpeted with leaves, mosses, and lichens, and
stre-wn in the greatest profusion -with thousands of faUen
flowers. Such was the forest into which we had entered.
Our guide preceded us. opening a way "with his machete,
and the party followed in single file. We had not pene
trated far in these deep soUtudes before we discovered the
fresh tracks of a huge tiger deeply embedded in the soft
earth. After several hours of fruitless travel in these tan
gled wilds, finding pursuit with any prospect of success im
possible, we abandoned the attempt, and determined upon
our return, taking a different course from the one we had
come. But this soon brought us into difficulty, for our
circuitous mode of travelling bewildered the guide, and,
although he endeavored to keep the fact from us, we were
not long in making the rather unpleasant discovery that,
for aught we knew, we were plunging deeper and deeper
into a boundless wilderness. We would descend one
mountain-ridge but to mount laboriously another. We
ascended the highest peaks, and climbed to the tops of the
tallest trees, only to be rewarded by the same cheerless,
interminable Une of waving forest. Once were we glad
dened by a view of the distant Lake of Tacarigua, but in
our wanderings in the inextricable labyrinth of woods our
direction was again lost. Nearly every step of our prog
ress had to be cleared with the machete. Slowly we
toiled along, dragging our aching bodies wearily up pre-

A CHEERLESS NIGHT. 49
cipitous cliffs, and, bruised and exhausted, would land at
the base of the opposite slope. Under these severe exer
tions one of the party gave out completely, and another
was bitten on the hand by a mapanare, a venomous ser
pent, the effects of which caused a frightful swelling of the
wounded member, but was prevented from proving fatal
by the application of liquid ammonia, an antidote we al
ways took the precaution to be provided with.* Ex
cepting coffee, early in the morning, we had taken nothing
since the day previous, and we had brought nothing with
us ; all our outer garments were left behind, and those we
wore were not the better after our experiences of the day.
Darkness at last terminated our wanderings, when we
threw ourselves down upon the stony bank of a moun
tain-torrent which came thundering do-wn from the granitic
rocks that were piled above, with a roar that made the
surrounding hills tremble. Our scanty clothing protected
us but poorly against the chUling atmosphere of the moun
tains, so that we suffered severely from the cold. The
spray fi-om the stream rendered more chilly the air, and
a heavy storm, whose rising was indicated by a deeper
darkness and stronger gusts of -wind through the forest,
threatened, for a time, to add to our discomfort ; but for
tunately it swept over -with only a slight dash of rain.
Morning at length came. One of the party during the
night had unconsciously crawled to the edge of a preci
pice, and there stretched himself upon some bushes and
tangled vines, where a single incautious move or an open-
* This specific is employed with success by the natives for the bite of
all venomous serpents. It is also useful for the stings of poisonous in
sects, and no traveller to the tropics should be unprovided with this sim
ple means of security against the evil effects of venomous creatures
which inhabit those regions. Dr. Fayrer, of Calcutta, has, however, in a
very interesting series of experiments, shown that ammonia cannot coun
teract the virulent poison of the cobra.

50 VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
ing of the treacherous couch would have let him into the
gulf below. Picking up our rusty guns and ourselves,
wet and stiff from the rain and cold, we followed do-wa
the bed of the torrent, climbing over the huge bowlders
of granite which blockaded the narrow gorge, forming
cascades and rapids, as the -waters went leaping down in
their haste to reach the deep valley beneath. Whether
the stream flowed into the plain of Valencia or the Atlan
tic, we knew not, but were certain that it must be in one,
and, in either event, by following its course, we would ex
tricate ourselves from the forest. About the middle of
the forenoon we reached Trinchera, a hamlet about mid
way on the road from Valencia to Puerto Cabello. The
stream which had been our guide, descending the Cor
dillera to the northward, emptied its waters into the
ocean. Trinchera was seven or eight leagues from our hacienda
by the main road, but by the trail over the mountains the
distance was much shorter. The hope of gaining time
led us to choose the latter course, which for a whUe was
well defined, but at length became lost in a tangled thicket.
We cut our way through dense jungles of reeds and mat
ted woods, climbed precipices, and crossed range after
range, until we reached a hut buried in the wUderness.
Learning from the occupants the nearest exit from the
forest, without further difficulty, save a long and weari
some march, we reached, toward the close of the second
day of our setting out, the hacienda of the consul. The
native left with our mules had returned with them on the
previous night, bringing the tidings of our mysterious ab
sence, which caused no little anxiety to our friends. Our
wearied condition induced us to accept proffered hospi
tality and pass the night at the hacienda, dispatching a
servant for our baggage which we had left upon the moun
tain. On the following morning wc returned to the city,

DESCENT TO THE SEA-COAST. 51
and thus ended our unsuccessful and long-to-be-remem
bered tiger-hunt in the mountains of Valencia.
Our excursions having now embraced most places of
interest upon the elevated table-lands of Caracas and the
valleys of Aragua and Valencia, we commenced prepara
tions for our journey to the Llanos of the interior. We
determined, however, before starting, to visit once more
the tierra caliente of the coast, in order to acquaint our
selves more fully with its botany and zoology, and that
we might also forward to the States the results of our
labors thus far, together with the unnecessary baggage,
which would prove an encumbrance to us in our long
journey to the Amazons. Accordingly, upon the morning
of the 7th of September, we left Valencia for Puerto Ca
bello, reaching the summit of the Cordillera, over which
the road passes, just in time to witness a glorious sunrise.
Leaving the crest, we commenced the descent toward the
sea through a deep and at first narrow ravine, the road at
times running along the steep slope, overlooking deep
gorges, and then descending and following the stream
below. The sides of the sierras were clothed with a dense
and heavy forest. The trees were hung in drapery of long,
gray moss, and decked with garlands of convolvulus, pas
sion-flowers, and an endless variety of parasitic plants.
Stately monarchs of the forest, stripped of their branches,
and covered from base to summit with climbing verdure,
rose Uke huge green columns in the surrounding woods.
Palm-trees, of all tropical vegetation the most majestic and
beautiful, lifted high toward the heavens their clusters of
rich, rustling verdure. Conspicuous in the midst of the
eternal green were seen the white trunks of cecropias, and
the branchless stems of the papaw-tree, crowned with its
immense leaves and gourd-like fruit. The milky juice of
the tree is said to have the efficacy of making meat tender
when boiled in it for a few minutes ; and even animals and

52 VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
fowls, when fed upon the leaves, will have tender flesh,
however tough it might have been otherwise. We could
not refrain from wishing that this tree, upon the strength
of the reputation of its lacteal fluid, might be widely in
troduced in countries outside of the tropics.
But the most interesting form of vegetation which
flourishes in the greatest abundance through these rugged
mount ain--wilds is the famous palo de vaca, or " cow-tree,"
from which is obtained, when incisions are made in the
trunk, a milky juice, sweet and agreeable to the taste, and
which is considerably used by the natives, to whom it fur
nishes an exceedingly nutritious food. The tree attains
majestic proportions ; the coriaceous leaves are from six
to ten inches in length.* "Amid the great number of
curious iihenomena," says Humboldt, "which I have ob
served in the course of my travels, I confess there are few
that have made so powerful an impression on me as the
aspect of the cow-tree." There is, indeed, something pe
culiarly impressive in this remarkable tree, which wUl not
be obUterated from the mind of the traveller by the many
other wonders of the equatorial regions that may come
under his observation. That there should be a tree mys
teriously elaborating a substance devoid of all acidity,
bitterness, and the deleterious qualities usually belonging
to lactescent plants, and which is, moreover, a delicious
and wholesome aliment, is no less a remarkable fact than
a beneficent provision for the inhabitants of a country
who rely mainly upon the natural resources of the land
for the supplying of their wants.
At eight A. M. we reached Trinchera, the place of our
* The tree known in the Amazonian region under this name is very
dilferent from the "cow-tree" {Oalnetodendrum utile) of the mountain-
region of Puerto Cabello, the milk of which is far superior to that of tho
former.

CAMBURE. 53
exit from the mountains when upon our memorable tiger-
hunt. Here we halted for coffee, and visited the thermal
springs which have given such a world-wide celebrity to
this place. They are situated a short distance from the
road, in a deep hollow, through which flows a rivulet,
from whose surface rose hot vapors, giving forth a strong
odor of sulphuretted hydrogen. The springs, which issue
from a coarse-grained granite, possess a temperature of
196° Fahrenheit, and, according to Humboldt, are, next
to the fountain of Urijino in Japan, the hottest in the
world. The vapor of the water deposits carbonate of
Ume, which forms incrustations upon the plants and stones
in the vicinity of the stream. If exposed in an open
vessel until the gas has escaped, it becomes in a short
time as pure as distilled water.
It was not a little surprising to behold how luxuriant
was the vegetation along this hot-water river. Giant
trees reared high their heads, and stretched their spread
ing branches over this Stygian stream, as if delighting in
the hot, sulphurous exhalations that rose from the surface,
while other plants sprung up in the very midst of the
rivulet and flourished where we could not for a moment
endure to hold our hand. It is also a singular phenom
enon that, at less than fifteen yards fi-om the thermal
springs, there gush others from the granitic rock, whose
waters are perfectly pure and cold.
Resuming our journey from Trinchera, in four leagues
more, accomplished in as many hours, we came to the
wretched little village of Ca^bure, comprising about
thirty huts situated in a pestilential swamp. Having
rested a couple of hours, we proceeded on our way, the
valley -widening as we neared the coast, and the stream
called jRio Agua Caliente, Hot-water River, that flowed at
the bottom of the ravine, swelling into a considerable tor
rent. At 4 r. M., at a sudden turn in the road, we were

64 VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
brought in full view of the ocean. We recalled the time
when, from the heights of La Silla, we took our farewell
look of the Atlantic, but little expecting to see it again
until we should behold it three thousand miles away, upon
the eastern shore of the continent.
At the point where the road reaches the coast and
turns eastward is Palito, a settlement of a dozen hovels, a
wretched posada for travellers, and three or four pulperias.
Reaching here before sunset, we enjoyed a refreshing
bath in the sea, which breaks upon this unprotected coast
in heavy surges. We then sauntered through the town
and along the line of railway which is building from
Puerto Cabello to San Felipe, fifty miles to the westward.
This heathenish place of Palito is to be the first station,
and also the junction -with a branch road that is to diverge
over the mountains to Valencia. But it is extremely
doubtful whether the lines will ever be completed ; opera
tions upon them have been suspended, owing to the inabiUty
of the government to fulfil its contract with the company.
Sabbath was spent at Palito, and Monday morning, long
before day, we left for Puerto Cabello, following the line of
the coast to the eastward over a sandy plain a league in
breadth. We forded the Agua CaUente and a number of
other streams, which, by their overflow, form stagnant,
malarious pools, and sedgy, serpent-abounding jungles —
real Stygian marshes. As we approached the city, the
plain became more fertile and cultivated, and we passed
broad flelds of maize, plantations of the broad-leaved
banana, and extensive groves of cocoa-nut palms. With
in two miles of Puerto Cabello we stopped at a hacienda,
where we spent a few days. At night we swung our ham
mocks in the front corridor ; and here we slept — no, con
tended with sancudos (mosquitoes) and fleas, and chafed
under the exciting effects of poison-ivy, aggravated by
an almost unendurable heat. The plant referred to is the

COCOA-PALM. 55
Rhus toxicodendron, so well known with us ; it is the
bane of these lowlands of the coast. In such abundance
does it grow that it is almost impossible to avoid com
ing in contact with it, and suffering thereby the usual
penalty. We here discovered also another of our north
ern shrubs, Sambucus Canadensis, or common elder.
This last we found upon the high table-lands and also far
in the interior of the country. These were the only famil
iar indigenous plants that we met -with in our rambles in
South America ; so different is equatorial vegetation from
our northern.
One of the marked features of this hot coast is the
groves of cocoa-nut palms which here find a genial home.
Not often does Nature produce a tree that is so variously
useful to man. The leaves are employed for thatching,
their fibres for manufacturing many articles, while their
ashes produce potash in abundance. The fruit is eaten
raw, and in many ways prepared for food ; the nut yields
an oil which is an important article of commerce; the
hard, woody shell answers for cups ; the milk of the fruit
is a cooUng beverage ; the saccharine juice of the tree
also affords an exceUent drink, either before or after fer
mentation ; while from the young stems is obtained a fari
naceous substance similar to that of the sago, or bread-
palm.* In the cocoa-nut palm, and the same can be said
of palm-trees generally. Nature admirably unites the use
ful and ornamental. There is no other tree which contrib
utes so largely to supply the wants of the inhabitants of
* The bread-palm must not be confounded with the bread-fruit tree
(Artocarpua integrifolid), which is not indigenous to Venezuela, although
common in the country. The last is a majestic exogenous tree with im
mense, shining leaves two and a half feet in length and two in breadth.
The fruit is as large as a cocoa-nut, and contains many chestnut-Uke
seeds, which, cooked, have a taste somewhat resembling that of the po
tato. .

56 VALENCIA AND PUERTO CABELLO.
the tropics. It is one of the numerous causes which in
southern cUmes tend to encourage the careless indolence
of the people. We can imagine but few more beautiful
sights, or a more inviting retreat upon a sultry day, than
that of a grove of cocoa-nut pahns, and, as we recall the
many hours of " luxurious ease " spent beneath their cool
ing shades, we cannot but exclaim with the poet :
" Oh stretched amid these orchards of the sun.
Give me to drain the cocoa's milky bowl.
And from the pahn to draw refreshing wine ! "
Distant from our hacienda not over half a mile was
the sea, whither we frequently resorted. Fringing the
shore was a belt of mangrove-trees, whose aerial roots in
terlacing form an impenetrable thicket, that is submerged
at every rise of the tide. This submarine lattice-work is
covered with shell-fish, clinging to its branches, and with
sea-weeds, drifted thither by the waves, while crabs and
moUusks in infinite numbers here shelter themselves from
the violence of an open sea. Thus mangrove-forests, by
deposits from the waves among their tangled net-work of
roots, cause a gradual encroachment of the land upon the
ocean ; but this increase of territory results in their own
destruction ; for, as the shore recedes, and their roots are
no longer washed by the tides, the trees perish, and mark
by their partially-buried trunks the ancients limits of the
ocean. The deleterious properties possessed by this sub
marine vegetation, accompanied with the noxious exhala
tions that usually arise from marshy ground covered -with
forest, especially in a heated climate, render these regions
along the coast exceedingly unhealthy. The stifling heat
of these arid plains seemed to us almost insupportable,
after having enjoyed the cool and deUghtful atmosphere
of the valleys among the CordiUeras. The amount of
rain that falls annually is much less than at Valencia,

PUERTO CABELLO. 57
and irrigation is necessary to preserve verdure and pro
mote fertUity.
At the expiration of a week spent upon this burning
and pestilential plain, we took up our abode in Puerto
Cabello, the port of entry to Valencia. Affording good
commercial facilities, it has become a town of considera
ble importance, containing a population of ten thousand,
among which are many foreigners, in whose hands is
much of the business of the place. We see here more in
dications of thrift and enterprise than we have observed
elsewhere in the country. The trade is chiefly in exports,
of which coffee, cacao, cotton, hides, and indigo, form the
greater part. The harbor, unlike the roadstead of La
Guaira, is well sheltered, there being but a narrow en
trance upon the west, which is also protected by islands,
and by the natural curvature of the main-land ; so that
vessels can ride at anchor -within, secure from the sea
which breaks so heavily upon the outer coast. The bay
swarms -with voracious sharks, so that only at the peril of
Ufe can the water be entered ; whUe at La Guaira these
cetaceous monsters are harmless creatures, and there the
sea is continually filled with bathers, and -with natives en
gaged in transferring fi-eight from shipboard to land.
The defences of the town are a battery, which guards the
entrance to the harbor ; another that stands to the east of
the city ; with a castle which crowns a rocky eminence five
hundred feet high, overlooking the place. There is, how
ever, but little danger to be apprehended from foreign
invasion, the security of the city being threatened only by
the political convulsions to which this country is sub
ject. Our stay at Puerto Cabello, which was necessarily
short, now drew to a close, and with it terminated our
rambles in Northern Venezuela.

CHAPTER VI
OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.  AFLOAT IN THE
EOEEST.
Water-system of South America. — Our Route, — ^Leave Puerto Cabello. —
Last Visit to Valencia. — A South American Road, — ^Fording a Elver.—
Wild Scenery, — ^Night at a Posada, — First View of Llanos. — Their Ex
tent and General Features, — Town of Pao, — ^Embarked for Baul, — Our
Bongo, — "Very bad" to wash before Breakfast, — Palms, — Bam
boos, — ^Alligators, — Howling Monkeys, — ^Lost in the Forest. — Navigat
ing under Difiioulties, — Shooting Rapids. — Night at a Llano Hut.
The water-system of South America is a remarkable
one, not only in the vastness of its majestic rivers, but also
in the curious anastomosing of its great streams. The
Orinoco, Rio Negro, and Amazons, with their extended and
united arms, reach around and island the northeastern
portion of the continent, embracing Guiana, with a large
part of Venezuela, and a considerable portion of Brazil.
You might circumnavigate this tract with a canoe. No
continent affords better commercial facilities. Steamers
may pass up the Amazons, by its Peruvian waters, to the
foot of the Andes. The continent is thus not only
traversable its entire breadth, but also length, by means
of its water-courses'. A canoe starting in at the delta of
the Orinoco can be paddled lengthwise of the continent to
the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, the paddling being
exchanged for short towages around the rapids of the
Upper Orinoco and Madeu-a Rivers.

OUR EOUTE. 59
But we must forego these general remarks, and, an
ticipating the expectations of our readers, recount some
of the experiences and incidents which make up the his
tory of our voyages upon these rivers. Let us flrst briefly
designate the route pursued across the continent. From
Puerto Cabello, we made the passage of the Cordilleras
to the head-waters of the Pao, a tributary of the Apure, and
passed down that river to its confluence with the latter, and
then down the Apure to the Orinoco. Then we ascended
that river, dragging our canoes around the cataracts en
countered near its middle waters, and crossed by a portage
of ten miles to the Rio Negro.* Down the black waters of
the Rio Negro we floated to the Amazons, and then, ex
changing our little craft for a steamer, passed down that
majestic river to the sea. The distance traversed was
over three thousand miles, with obstacles to overcome
that can only be conceived of by those who have pene
trated into the trackless wilds of these almost unfrequent
ed regions. Much of the journey was performed by
canoe across "inundated plains, where the sun is the only
guide to the traveller ; through flooded forest, penetrable
only as a path is opened with the axe ; and upon impetuous
and rock-obstructed rivers. Our bed at night was often
the bank of some stream, or in the deep gloom of the for
est, with the roaring of crocodiles, the plaintive cry of
monkeys, and the howl of tigers to lull us to sleep. More
over, the cUmate of the interior was exceedingly hot and
malarious, and means of transportation were so limited
that scarcely sufficient could be carried to meet our most
urgent necessities during our protracted voyage of four
months. Our first care was to dispatch to the States every thing
excepting what would be absolutely indispensable to us
* This portage might have been avoided by following the Cassiquiare,
a circuitous water-channel, which unites the waters of the two rivers.

60 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
upon our journey. For the sake of the curious, we will
incidentally remark that, aside from the suit worn, which
was woollen throughout, the extra clothing of each, to
which were added a few other necessary articles, was
packed in an ordinary army haversack. Each one was fur
thermore supplied with a cobija, oy poncho, and hammock,
and a g-an with its accompanying paraphernalia. A few
simple instruments that were also added to our stock, with
a botanical box and press, completed our outfit, the en
tire weight of which did not exceed one hundi-ed and
twenty-five pounds, or an average of about forty pounds
to a man.
Preparations for our journey being completed, we left
Puerto Cabello upon the aftemoon ofthe I7th of Septem
ber, reaching Valencia upon the evening of the foUowing
day, where we spent one day in concluding arrangements
for the journey of eighteen leagues over the CordUleras to
Pao — the head of canoe-navigation upon Pao River. A
donkey, which we afterward gave away, was purchased
for ten pesos, for the transportation of our baggage, and
by 5 p. M. we were ready for starting. It was not with
out many misgivuigs that we left the genial and salubri
ous climate of the mountain valleys for the submerged
and malarious regions of the Llanos, and the wild, unex
plored forests of the Orinoco. We parted, too, with
many regrets from the friends formed during our brief
stay at Valencia, whose kindness -wiU not soon be forgot
ten. Especially are we indebted to Senor E. Staal, a let
ter of introduction from whom to a gentleman in Pao was
the commencement of a series which extended from place
to place across the continent, and which proved of invalu
able service to us. After many a hearty shake of the
hand, accompanied with endless " buen-viaje^ and '¦'¦ Dios
los guarde,'" we separated, turning our faces toward the
sierras of Nigua, with its long lines of shadowy hills

A SOUTH AMERICAN" ROAD. gi
stretching away in the distance. As we wended our way
through the narrow streets, every window, door, and ve
randa, was filled with heads, some drawn thither from
idle curiosity to see " Los Americanos," others to give us
a parting adios.
The sun was lingering above the western hills when
we made our exit from the city, shedding its golden
beams over mountains, plains, and forests, as if to give us
one more glorious view of this lovely valley. We shall
not soon forget either the beauties of that sunset eve, or
the many scenes and associations of Valencia. It was
after dark when we halted for the night at the same
miserable posada which had sheltered us upon a previous
occasion, when overtaken by night, and lost upon the
plains. In a small room, shared "with a man and boy,
benches, tables, boxes, saddles, boards, poles, hoes, water-
jars, barrels, green cornstalks, sancudos, and fleas, we
managed to pass the night. It was scarcely dawn when
we were again on our journey, our road leading across a
grassy plain toward the range of hills which separates the
valley of Valencia from the Llanos beyond.
One who has travelled only over the finely-built high
ways of our country, can have but a faint conception of
what is analogous to such an the tropics. A road here
means simply a beaten path, -with branches diverging in
every direction, to the utter be-wilderment of the traveller.
Some of the roads consist of a number of parallel paths,
worn by the tread of animals into deep gullies, which,
upon the mountain-slopes, in the season of rains, consti
tute water-channels, through which torrents flow down,
rendering travelUng not only exceedingly difficult but
dangerous. No bridges span the streams, which must be
crossed by fording or s-ndmming, while exposed to vora
cious caimans, or alUgators, and other dangerous pests of
these tropical waters.

62 OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS,
It was along one of these traUs that we were now di
recting our course. We found the streams greatly sw^ol-
len, and the road nearly impassable, for the rainy season
had not yet drawn to a close ; but we met with no serious
obstacle until some three leagues on our journey, when a
river, larger than any we had yet encountered, thre-w it
self across our path. We sat do-wn upon the bank of the
swollen torrent to discuss the probabiUties of a safe tran
sit, and to watch a party of natives who were making the
passage. The animals were forced to swim, whUe theu-
cargoes were carried over upon the heads of the men.
We watched the novel spectacle untU sufficiently ac
quainted with the modus operandi, when we commenced
the crossing, taking our packages upon our heads, d la
Creole. We reached the opposite shore safely; but our
little donkey, unable to stem the current, was swept down
the stream ; but, fortunately, the precaution had been
taken to attach a long rope to his neck, and by this poor
burro was dragged to land. After some tune consumed
in these ferrying operations, we continued on over the
Ijlain a league farther, when we commenced the gradual
ascent of the mountains, and, toward the close of the day,
we stood upon the summit of the first range of the Cor
dillera crossed in going to Pao fi-om Valencia, where we
enjoyed a wide sweep of wild mountain scenery. South-
¦ward rugged and barren ranges were pUed one upon an
other, and at their bases lay picturesque valleys, sUghtly
wooded, and sprinkled over with Uttle huts, surrounded
with patches of maize and bananas, which presented
charming spots in the midst of the mountain ruggedness.
Wending our way down along the edge of a precipitous
cliff into one of the beautiful glens stretched out beneath
QS, we stopped for the night at a mud posada, a way-side
inn, glorying in total darkness within.
The sun had not yet risen when we were again mak-

NIGHT AT A POSADA.

63

ing our way over a wild, barren region, either winding
through rugged defiles, or mounting by circuitous paths
the ranges of the Cordilleras. The trail at one time
would lead down abrupt descents into deep and almost
inextricable ravines, not unfrequently between cliffs near
ly closing above us, over ranges, furrowed deeply by
torrents, and so precipitous and slippery that our animal
could mount them only as he was lifted almost bodily up
the heights. After a day of wearisome climbing we
reached by 5 p. m. a posada, whose inviting appearance,
added to the uncertainty of finding another stopping-
place within a convenient distance, induced us to make
this the terminus of our day's journey. Dinner being im
mediately called for, was promised pj-OM^o (quickly), which
meant any time before next morning. A familiar cry,
heard soon after, prognosticating evil to a feathered
gamester, was suggestive of good things coming. For
three mortal hours, however, we waited for further de
velopments, when at length came the summons, Venga d
comer. Turning to the farther corner of the apartment,
where we had been reclining in our hammocks, the faint
glimmering of a light from a bit of rag burning in a cup
of fat revealed to us, upon a table spread with a dirty
cloth, the disjointed members of a half-cooked fowl,
which, judging from its toughness, must have enjoyed
the walks of life for a much longer period of years than
usually falls to the lot of his race. In addition, there
were three calabashes of soup to be eaten by means of
pieces of broken crockery used as spoons.
In the morning, after the customary calabash of coffee,
we resumed our journey, winding along giddy heights,
where a traveller's sense of insecurity is not lessened by
the momentary prospect of meeting, at any turn of his
path, scarcely wide enough for his beast to tread, loaded
animals going in the opposite direction, which, rushing

64 OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
down, threaten to hurl every opposing obstacle over the
frightful cliff. Trains of animals crossing the Cordilleras
have a bell attached to the neck of the leader, or are pre
ceded by a drover with a conch-shell that is blown to
give notice of the approaching line, but which does not al
ways prevent a collision that sometimes results most disas
trously. We frequently encountered troops of pack-mules
and donkeys going to Valencia ; but, being always on the
qui vive, we were spared any of these unpleasant episodes.
We at length descended into a heavily-timbered valley,
and, rising from this to the summit of the last range of
the Cordillera, we beheld for the first time the Llanos of
Venezuela. One can scarcely imagine the pleasure af
forded us, as, after travelling amid the wUdest of moun
tain scenery, we looked down upon this great sea of ver
dure which, joined with the sylvas of Brazil and the
pampas of Buenos Ayres, stretched far away thousands
of miles into the regions of southern frost.
The Llanos of Venezuela are separated from the great
forest of the Amazons by the mountains of Guiana, or, as
sometimes termed, the sierras of Parima, and bounded
upon the north by the littoral range of the coast, bearing
different local names, as the mountains of Puerto Cabello,
Caracas, and Cumana. The plains thus have a -width of
about four hundred miles, whUe in length they stretch
from the great delta of the Orinoco more than a thousand
miles westward to the Andes of Colombia. By far the
greater portion of this immense plain is covered with
luxuriant grass, but often broken by tracts of forest, and
belted by the heavily-wooded courses of the many rivers.
Draining these savannas is the Orinoco, the second river
in size of South America, which is swollen by the thou
sand streams from the mountains of Guiana upon the south,
and from the Andes of Colombia, and the coast-chain of
Venezuela, upon the west and north. The ifewelling of

THE LLANOS. 65
these rivers during the season of rains causes the inun
dation of large portions of the country, so that it can be
traversed only by canoes. When the waters subside, the
grass, which has been parched under the cloudless sky of
the dry season preceding the overflow, quickly springs
up, and in a short time the earth is again clothed with
beautiful verdure. That part of the Llanos situated
north of the Orinoco and Apure is divided into tracts
known as the plains of Maturin, Barcelona, and Guarico;
while the more southern portions are known as the savan
nas of the Apure, Meta, and Guaviare. The general slope
of the Llanos is toward the northeast ; or, rather, they
describe a quadrant, the upper portion of the basin slop
ing toward the north, the lower toward the east, which
gives direction to the waters of the Orinoco. The slight
elevation of these great plains, as well as that of the
basin of the Amazons, is one of the striking features in
their physical aspect. " If, " says Humboldt, " from the
effects of some peculiar attraction, the waters of the At
lantic were to rise fifty toises * at the mouth of the Ori
noco, and two hundred toises at the mouth of the Amazons,
the floods would submerge more than the half of South
America. The entire eastern declivity, or the foot of the
Andes, now six hundred leagues distant from the coast of
Brazil, would become a shore beaten by the waves. "
One of the most significant of the streams that flow
into the basin of the Llanos of Venezuela from the north-
ei-n Cordilleras is the Rio Pao, which, taking its rise
among the mountains of the littoral chain, winds over the
plains in a southerly direction, assuming the name of
Portuguesa before its confluence -with the Apure. Distant
one and a half leagues from the summit ofthe sierras, where
we first came in view of the Llanos, is situated the town
ofTPao, upon the bank of the stream whose name it bears.
* A toise is a French measure, containing about 6.4 English feet.

66 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
It was after sunset when w^e entered the place, which
comprises about five thousand inhabitants.
Through the assistance of Mr. E. Rodriguez, a German
resident, we secured a canoe and crew for our journey to
Baul, the first town reached in descending the Pao, and
about half the distance to San Fernando de Apure. Sup-
jjlies for a week's voyage were requisite, and these we set
about procuring. First was fresh beef, brought to us in
leathery strips and gristly sheets, which, after it was
thoroughly salted, we dried, and then, with the Venezue
lians, called it carne seca. To our meat were added cas
sava, goats' cheese, salt, papelon, or the consolidated sugar
of the country, bottles of manteca, or butter, with a lib
eral quantity of green plantains. Then there were culi
nary utensils — two iron pots, one for coffee, the other for
general purposes — and the indispensable machete, which
answered for axe and carving-knife.
The morning of the 25th of October, after three days'
delay at El Pao, we were ready to embark upon our
voyage. Our craft was long — to uneducated American
minds, like ours, too long — ^but was not at all successful as
to width, but then it is in canoes as little as in mortals to
command success in every particular, and we can say for
our boat that length covered a multitude of sins as well
as feet. Por a picture of it, scoop out forty feet of a
tree, with the largest diameter less than two feet, and the
average hardly more than one, buUd a thatch, or carroza,
over the middle half, just filling out the original contour
of the log, tie a rough steering-oar to the stern, and call
the whole a bongo, and you have it complete. As at that
time we were modest and unpretending, our crew was
small. First, Viviano, generalissimo of the palanca, armed
with a long pole, occupied the bow. His duty was to
-walk toward the stern as far as the carroza would permit,
leaning heavily on his palanca, placed on the bottom of

EMBAEKED FOR BAUL. 67
the river, or any neighboring rock or limb, as was most
convenient, then, usiug his pole as a balancer, to walk, d
la Slondin, up the inclined plane formed by the rise in
the bow, and repeat the operation. From his head to his
knees, Viviano differed not essentially from the gener
ality of mortals, but below that was somewhat unique. '
At his knees his legs dispersed, choosing paths of life as
diverging as possible. Whether Nature intended Viviano
for a palancasist, par excellence, is doubtful, but his form
was undoubtedly of great advantage to him, for, where
more commonplace men would walk -with fear and uncer
tainty, he, his feet just fitting nicely to the sides of the
bongo, walked -with unconcern. Ever hungry and ever
eating, Viviano was yet the leanest of men ; but that fact
was easily accounted for from his always talking when
compatible with eating. Our patron, Alvino by name,
who handled the clumsy steering-oar, was an old man of
eighty-two summers, if it is possible to say " summers "
in reference to that country, and was the father of Viviano
and the small boy, who was perched on " airy nothing,"
behind his father. To the words of the patron, his sons and
every one whom we met paid the greatest deference, and
indeed the respect paid always to old age was very
marked ; rarely did a young person salute an old man
without kneeling. El Patron's knowledge of geography
was not extensive, but at least patriotic ; his enumeration
of the countries of the world ended -with Venezuela, ut
tered triumphantly as the incontrovertible acme of gran
deur. Under the carroza were stowed our supplies, uten
sils, arms, and baggage ; and there was also, as Alvino
gravely informed us, to be our place of refuge from the
storms, although it was difficult for us to conceive how,
when every thing was in, there would be space left for
more than one at either end, and for only half the length
of the body at that.

68 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
At length we were under way, floating down the swift-
rolling waters of the Pao, adding the strength of the pa
lanca to the progressive force of the current. Picture to
yourseK a narrow, many-folded river — to which Tiber in
its turbidest was, undoubtedly, as a clear and sparkling
fountain — a stream so opaque that the idea suggested itself
to one of the party that perhaps " Afric's sunny fountain "
had got lost, and by mistake had " rolled do-wn its golden
sand " into El Dorado, which was successful in damping
it a little. However, so long as our gallant craft was
floated, we could not complain, and, as for drink, it went
further and gave us meat which, if not as nutritious, was
at least not tougher than the strips of toro which orna
mented our carroza. The wooded banks were low, but a
few feet above high water, with now and then a hut, just
visible through the thick foliage of banana-leaves.
Our first day's voyage was short, as the hour was late
when we started, and nearly three hours were consumed
in obtaining a meal, which an untimely rain greatly im
peded iu preparation. The extended acquaintance of our
patron, and the respect his whitened head everywhere com
manded, readily gained us admission for the night at the
house of a friend, the occupants retiring to a neighbor's
hut, giving us entire possession. Aroused by the patron
at the first appearance of day, we reembarked, and were
soon shooting swiftly down the current beneath the shad
ows of the dark forest which rose from either bank. From
the depths of those solitudes no sound was heard, and
naught broke the death-like stillness of the early morning
save the stroke of the oar as it cleaved the waves, and the
plunge of the alUgator, as, startled from his rest, he gUded
off the slimy bank, and disappeared in the turbid waters.
Reaching, soon after sunrise, the base of a low, rocky
hill, we drew ashore for breakfast. At once we betook
ourselves to our morning ablutions, when the chiding voice

"VERY BAD" TO WASH BEFORE BREAKFAST. 69
of Alvino, our ever-watchful guardian, was heard, as
suring us it was " muy malo " (very bad) to wash before
breakfast, as it brought on the calentura, or fever. This
superstitious notion we found very prevalent among the
people of the Llanos ; but, not-withstanding the warning
of our patron, who was evidently neither a Pharisee nor
a holder of their traditions, we went on with our bath.
Unfortunately for our side of the question, two of the
party eventually were prostrated with the calentura, when
the old sage shook his hoary head in confirmed conviction
of the fulfilment of his predictions. Generally we landed
but once during the day for a meal, and that for break
fast, about nine - or ten o'clock ; our dinner — if the hour
wUl allow the name — being taken when we bivouacked for
the night.
Upon the morning referred to above, we delayed
several hours, whUe our boatmen gathered smooth, silicious
stones of an oval shape, and large blocks of sandstone.
The latter, when hoUowed upon one side, together with
one of the smaUer stones, form primitive mills, such as
are seen in every Venezuelian hut. Upon the Llanos,
where nothing more compact than sand can be obtained,
these stones command a good price ; the larger size, in
weight about fifteen pounds, bringing from two to three
pesos each, and the smaller ones, of two pounds, twenty-
five cents apiece. As the remuneration received, from us
by our patron was not large, we -wilUngly acceded to his
wish to coUect the stones; and, after our arrival at Baul,
we had the satisfaction of knowing that he reaUzed a
good compensation for his labors.
With our extra ballast we again got under way,
gliding down through the forest channel, now no longer
silent, but awakened by Nature's gay-plumaged vocalists,
loquacious parrots and paroquets. Aquatic birds covered
the water and stalked the shore ; while alligators, with

10 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
opened jaws, lay basking in the bright sun upon the
shelving borders of the stream. Not more strange and
varied -H'ere the forms of animated life than were the
beauty and exuberance of vegetation, which rose above
us in walls of eternal green, variegated with flowers that
decked richly the trees, and flUed the air -with their fra
grance. The small, slender, and delicately-pinnated foU-
age of mimosas and tamarinds contrasted pleasingly with
the many large, coriaceous-leaved species that filled the
forest. The arum, that giant of aerial plants, trumpet-
flowered bignonias, banisterias, and passion-flowers, with
thousands of orchidaceous plants of exquisite beauty,
covered the branches and embowered the trees. Pahns
rose in forms and numbers unknown in the higher altitudes
of the Cordilleras. Here was the palma de cobija ( Cory
pha tectorurn) or roofing palm, its palmate leaves few in
number, with the lower ones withered and drooping, giving
the tree a gloomy and mournful aspect. The stem, twenty
to thirty feet in height, like that of the palmetto so abun
dant along our Southern seaboard, is remarkable for main
taining a constant diameter of eight or ten inches in
all individuals of the species. The wood is hard and
durable, making excellent building-timber where exposure
to the weather is necessary, nor is it subject to the ravages
of ants, which are such wood-destroyers in the tropics.
The leaves are employed by the natives of the Llanos for
covering roofs.
But a far more beautiful palm growing here than the
one just described, and one more generally useful, is the
Moriche (Mauritia flexuosa), or what is known as the
sago or bread-tree of the country. It resembles the above
in the form of its leaves, which are folded like a fan ; but
these are much larger than are those of the former species,
as is also the trunk, which attains a height of fifty and
even eighty feet. It is a tree of wide distribution and

PALMS. >}i
very abundant, and with it is intimately connected the
existence of the Warauns, a tribe of Indians who inhabit
the delta, or submerged lands of the mouth of the Orino
co. Their habitations are hung between the trees, above
the reach of -wild beast and inundating floods. The fari
naceous pith of the stem, its fruit, and saccharine juice,
supply the dwellers of these aSrial homes with food and
drink, while from the fibres of the leaves they weave for
themselves mats and hammocks. " It is curious to ob
serve," says Humboldt, " in the lowest degree of human
civUization, the existence of a whole tribe depending on one
single species of palm-tree, similar to those insects which
feed on one and the same flower, or on one and the same
part of a plant." This veritable "Tree of Life," with
its large, shining leaves, preseiwes a beautiful verdure
through the season of greatest drought, and rises above
the summer-parched and barren soil of the Llanos, a
guide to the traveller and a grateful shelter from the
heat of the noonday sun. The tree thrives only in moist
ground, and at its base may generally be found a foun
tain of refreshing water ; or such can be obtained by a
slight excavation. The fact that this palm-tree is always
found in the vicinity of water has given rise to the belief,
among the natives, that the tree attracts moisture from
the earth ; but in this, as well as in many other cases,
they have confounded cause and effect. The sweet and
grateful juice of the Moriche palm, either fresh or ferment
ed; the unexpanded young leaves, or what is called cab
bage, a most excellent vegetable ; the sago, from the fari
naceous pith of the trunk; the fruit, which, like the plan
tain, can be eaten raw when mature, or prepared by cook
ing in an almost endless variety of ways ; the spathe of
the fruit, resembling coarsely-woven cloth, and useful for
bags, mats, and the scanty apparel sometimes worn by the
native ; the value of the leaves for thatching, and their

72 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
fibres for cordage, bowstrings, fish-nets, lines, sails, baskets,
cloth, and hammocks — all these from a single tree, supply
ing the people in abundance with all the necessaries of
existence, is only another instance of the wonderfiil pro-
fuseness and adaptation of Nature, in this rude and xmcul-
tivated land, for supplying the wants of its inhabitants.
But of the many and varied forms of vegetation that
shoot up in such rich luxuriance along the banks of the
Pao, and adorn the forests and the plains of this humid
clime, forming such a distinctive feature in the landscape,
none, perhaps, impresses the traveller from northem lati
tudes more than the group of grasses. Among these the
guadua or bamboo [Bambusa guadua) is by far the most
majestic and picturesque. It is also a most useful plant
to the natives, furnishing them material for buUding,
their hollow stems serving for posts and rafters ; and, when
split and laid open, they form boards for enclosing their
huts ; and their joints, which are filled with a refreshing
drink for the thirsty traveller, answer for cups, vessels,
and various other purposes. This arborescent grass loves
a humid soil, and is found abundant along the borders
of streams, where the stems shoot up in thick clumps to the
height of forty and even fifty feet, with a diameter of
fi-om four to six inches.* Masses of long, slender leaves
cro-wn the summit of these pliant trunks, bending them
downward by then- weight into graceful curves, which, by
their union over streams that they line, form long, beauti
ful arcades of evergreen verdure, through which the voya
ger floats in his canoe, his pathway gleaming with myri
ads of insects, that rival in the brilliancy of their color
ing the richest gems. " Their slender forms are suscepti
ble to the slightest breeze, and, when the gale of the hurri-
* Fletcher makes mention of this giant grass being found, on the
Organ Mountains of Brazil, from eighty to one hundred feet in height
and eighteen inches in diameter.

A NIGHT ON THE BEACH. 73
cane comes, these groves of bamboo exchange an aspect
of beauty for that of grandeur. They are heaved and
tossed like the billows of the sea, and their rich foliage,
driven in every direction, appears like surges breaking on
the rocks." *
We can convey to our readers but a faint concep
tion of the richness and exuberance of the vegetation
which forms a belt of varying -width along the banks
of the Pao. So interested had we been in the count-
loss objects of attraction which were continually coming
before us as we moved down the stream, that we were
scarcely conscious of the flight of time. The sun had al
ready disappeared behind the deep-green wall of verdure
before we hauled up our canoe upon a stony beach for the
night. A fire was soon blazing from the drift-wood which
lined the shore, and the odor of stewing beef and plan
tains foretold the evening meal. The impenetrability of
the matted woods obliged us to sleep upon the rocky
bank of the stream, where we spread our blankets as far
as possible from the water, that we might lessen the
chances of our furnishing a banquet to the various cai
mans which filled the river, and at night sought the shore.
Truly not a comforting reflection to haunt our dreams,
that we were momentarily liable to be aroused from our
slumbers just in time to find ourselves within the capacious
jaws of one of these cannibalistic monsters, the next mo
ment to be crushed out of existence. The scaly saurians
must have bent their steps that night in quest of other
game, for we remained undisturbed by them, but fell a
prey to a not much less dreaded enemy — sancudos — ^which
swarmed the river-banks.
Responding to the call of our patron at the earliest
dawn, we reembarked. So, floating down, the half-wake-
* " Adventures in South and Central America." Paez,

74 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
fulness, half-sleep of the dusky morning, hushing even Vi
viano, we left our camp behind. Now and then we would
pass beneath rustling, sighing banana-groves, which, wav
ing like great fields of corn at evening, brought to our
half-sleeping minds blended pictures of home and south
ern scenes. To one who has never seen tropical forests,
no word-painting can convey any idea how grand and
weird and graceful they are — they stand so unutterably
mysterious and dark, as if — a race chained ages ago by
a conquering will — they, grown old and hoary, are wait
ing a release to being.
By the time that we were fairly awake, we reached a
spot where the banks, breaking, extended a muddy flat
on the left side. Here we landed for breakfast, and,
while this was preparing, we wandered into the forest
with our rifles, proceeding in the direction whence was
heard the plaintive cry of araguatos, apparently near at
hand. But we were as yet unenlightened as to how de
ceiving is the distance these howling monkeys can be
heard, and so were enticed farther and farther into the
tangled jungle. At length we came to the object of our
search — a group of large monkeys, walking leisurely
along the branches of a tree, casting down suspicious
glances upon the intruders on their realms. Selecting the
finest-looking fellow, he was brought wounded to the
ground; when the whole basnd, that had ceased their
noise at our approach, set up again a most terrific howl
ing. As we stood a Uttle exultant over the bleeding ani
mal, he turned up his large eyes, filled with tears, and,
casting upon us a look that we shall ever remember, ut
tered a mournful cry, which was answered by the waUs of
his companions in the trees.
The araguatos, which are the largest monkeys of the
New World, are represented by several species. Accord
ing to measurement, we found one of these animals {Myce-

HOWLING MONKEYS. 1^5
tes ursinus) four feet from tip to tip, or about three feet
when in an erect posture. This species is the most com
mon, has thick fur of a reddish-brown color, and a long,
prehensile tail, which answers as a third hand. The feat
ures of its face have a grave and melancholy expression ;
its beard is long, and its movements like the slow and
measured gait of an old man. It generally seems perfect
ly indifferent as to what is transpiring about it ; but, when
aroused, its whole aspect changes, and it will perform evo
lutions through the trees with surprising agility. As
Humboldt observes, " monkeys are melancholy in propor
tion as they have more resemblance to man. Their
sprightUness diminishes as their intellectual faculties ap
pear to increase." In disposition the araguato is mis
chievous and savage, and will, when wounded, attack
man in a most ferocious manner. It cannot be tained,
and shows none of that affection for human beings which
some of the smaller species of the monkey-tribe exhibit.
It is gregarious in its habits, and deUghts in the solitary
forest, feeding upon nuts and fruits. One pecuUarity
that distinguishes the howlers from other members of
the monkey group is, the remarkable development of the
larynx, by which it is enabled to produce those tremen
dous noises that are heard at so great a distance. When
the causes were favorable for the propagation of sounds,
we heard the yelling of these creatures over half a league.
Frequently during the darkness of the night they break
forth -with their terrible howls, such as deeply impress the
traveller who hears them for the first time, and "leads
him to suppose," as truthfuUy observes Waterton, " that
half the wild beasts of the forest were collecting for the
work of carnage : now it is the tremendous roar of the
jaguar, as he springs on his prey; now it changes to his
deep-toned growlings, as he is pressed on all sides by su-

76 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
perior force ; and now you hear his last dying moan be
neath a mortal wound."
There is, perhaps, no animal that possesses a greater
interest than the monkey. It has been the subject of
countless nursery-tales, and a fruitless source of fiction,
arising from that inherent propensity so characteristic of
human nature for making what is marvellous appear still
more so. The oft-repeated story, familiar to every boy,
and which finds credence among so many, of monkeys
crossing streams on aerial bridges, constructed from their
own bodies, exists only in fancy. Travellers to South
America have often referred to it as one of the astonish
ing feats of these animals. In the course of our travels
in the tropics, during which we saw multitudes of these
creatures, our observations convinced us that there was
no foundation for the truth of the tale of the bridge-build
ing monkeys ; and in this belief we were, moreover, fur
ther confirmed by the statement of the natives, who tes
tified to their having never -witnessed such a novel per
formance. Humboldt also says that five years' observa
tions of these animals led him to place no confidence in
the statements respecting these monkey-bridges.
Returning to our canoe from our ramble in the forest,
we found in waiting a smoking breakfast of sancocho, the
national dish of the Venezuelian — a concoction of beef,
yuca, bananas, peppers, garlics, and annatto * for a color
ing principle. Our energetic Viviano had also been on a
foraging expedition with Angel, the small boy, to a house
upon the opposite bank, and returned with plenty of milk,
* Annatto is the product of a shrub {Bixa orellana) ten or twelve
feet in height, with a foliage resembling our common lilac. The bush
bears a prickly bur, hke the chestnut, only smaller, that contams the
seeds from which the coloring substance is obtained. It grows wild
throughout Venezuela, and is extensi-vely cultivated in Brazil, constitut.
ing one of the exports from that country.

DIFFICULT NAVIGATION.- 77
enabling us to enjoy the luxury of cafe con leche. We
were amused to see our patron pound the tough, leathery,
jerked meat between two stones ; but it was not long be
fore we learned to follow his example, and even then, with
our full quota of molars, experienced no slight difficulty,
and much hard work, in making an impression on the
nearest approach to leather that ever went by the honor
able name of meat.
On again, all the morning, till toward noon the banks
began to sink, and finally were not to be distinguished
from the river, save by the lines of forest that marked
their limits. Then we knew that we had reached the
delta country of El Pao, and, coming to an igarap'e, or
canoe-path, we turned in and deserted a river that soon
would have deserted us. But our igarap6 soon lost all
individuality, and we floated in a flooded, tangled forest,
with no path but what we might cut ourselves. The dif
ficulty of this can only be apparent to those who have
undergone a like experience. Our bongo, long beyond all
proportion, and as cranky as is natural to a log, could
make no short turns, and continually suggested the possi
biUty of our becoming food for the caimans. Then the
matted and snake-like curtains of vines, aerial roots and
branches, hard as southern wood only can be, presented
an obstacle almost insurmountable, had it continued long.
Often, after having cut a way in one direction, we would
be brought to a stand-still by a fallen tree, or the neces
sity of a short turn, and be obliged to back out and try
again. Occasionally Viviano would utter a low hush, and,
gathering himself into the smallest possible compass, push
silently back. That meant, usually, an immense nest
of bees, or perhaps a long, green, velvet spotted snake
stretched out along the branches. Sometimes the water
would be shallow, and we would float on a slimy mass of
black mud, requiring all of Viviano's strength and skill to

78 OVEE THE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS,
continue our journey and keep us right side up. On one
of these occasions, when the mixture was a little denser
than usual, Viviano, bracing his palanca against a tree,
bent all his might to cleave the flood, but unfortunately
his pole slipped, and, his very form aiding the catastrophe,
by holding his feet firmly in the boat, he disappeared head
long into the chocolate-colored paste. Both El Patron
and Angel screamed out simultaneously, "Look out for
the caiman ! " but Viviano needed no warning to hasten his
return to the boat, and so great was his nervous hurry
that, had it not been for a friendly tree to steady us, we
should have upset. The wrath in the face of our mucha
cho warned us not to laugh, but his mud-lorn features
¦were too much for us ; and we were forced to grin audibly.
As a consequence, Viviano was grandly silent the rest of
the day. Providentially for us, the forest along the river-
banks never extends very far back from the stream, and
late in the afternoon we emerged from our toiling labyrinth
into the "wide Llanos. But Llanos no longer — rather a
great sea, ilUmitable in extent, but very limitable in depth ;
lacking the ceaseless motion of the ocean, it was ten times
more lonely and waste. Silence does not necessarUy en
hance loneliness. The forest through which we passed
was at mid-day as silent as the grave ; the few birds flitted
about noiselessly without a note of song, yet the forest
even then was as a company of friends, compared to the
loneliness of the Llanos, which, however, were flooded
with a multitude of noises. Numberless guacharacas,
whose name itself means ever-moaning, myriads of ducks,
geese, and water-birds of every kind, filled the air with
strange cries, till finally, as the sun went down, they disap
peared and left us still. For a short distance out from the
forest stood isolated trunks of trees, which, covered deep
under luxuriant masses of vines, were shaped into many
graceful and often grotesque forms. Sometimes in the

LOST IN THE FOREST. 79
rapidly-gathering dusk we would seem to see a thatched
hut rise up friendly before us, but, on approaching it,
some disturbed bird would fly out with a scream and dis
pel the illusion.
For some time before we reached the open water, we
perceived that our crew were in doubt as to the direction,
and just as the sun went dow^n .we were brought to a
stand-still on a little spot of land rising out of the water,
with no idea where to turn. El Patron and Viviano left
the boat to have a reconnoitre and consultation, while we
waited for them in a dubious frame of mind. "Angel,
we are lost, are we not ? " " Yes, sir." A pleasant idea,
that of spending the night in the boat, no possibility of
lying do-wn, the air full of the deadliest miasma, while the
low hunjming song from millions of tiny pipers, gradually
growing- louder and louder, told us of a night of torture
worse than the mere loss of sleep.
But our journey for the day was not yet at an end.
As we sat meditating in the dark, there came to us faintly
a roar as of distant water. " El cano," said our patron,
and we immediately started in the direction of the sound.
Soon we entered a little narrow stream, barely wide
enough for our canoe, but running with considerable
swiftness, which rapidly increased, till we were hurrying
along like a race-horse. Viviano stood up in the bow,
using his palanca Uke a madman, now on one side, now
on the other, to keep us free from the banks, but suddenly
his pole was torn from his grasp, scraping along the car
roza to the imminent danger of our heads, while at the
same moment, the river making a quick bend, our bongo
far too long to turn, stuck fast in the bend, keeling over till
the water rushed in at the lower side. Disembarking with
our avaUable crew, we righted our craft and then dug
away the bank till there was room enough for us to turn.
Galloping on, the stream grew wider, and the current

80 OVER TEE MOUNTAINS TO THE LLANOS.
suddenly so swift, that we endeavored to fasten to the
bank, but it was too late; we could no more stop our
courser than the stream itself, and as we tm-ned a bend
we were greeted by a roar that sent our hearts into our
mouths. But a moment longer, and we were swept into
a seething, boiling raudal* nothing visible but the leap
ing, white foam on which our log was tossed Uke a feather.
Viviano dropjjed down helpless -with a stifled caramba,
while we speculated on the chances of the rapid ending
in a fall. El Patron clung to his steering-oar like a hero,
and kept the bongo head on, which was our only chance.
By the rocks we dashed like lightning, for what seemed
an interminable length of time. But the caimans were
cheated of their i^rey for once. We escaped the rocks,
with no more damage than a large amount pf water
shipped, and floated quietly on deep water once again.
Our zest for adventure for that day, however, was gone,
and the sooner we were on dry land again the better. Our
patron now knowing his whereabouts, we travelled on,
sleepy and tired, till the faint glimmer of a light ahead re
vived us, and soon we were watching our supper cooking
over the fire, and slinging our hammock within the walls
of a Llano farm-house. Great slabs of leathery meat dis
appeared Uke snow in summer, washed do-wn by number
less calabashes of coffee and milk, before we desisted, and
then we turned into our hammocks, while El Patron, in a
low, monotonous tone which came from a cloud of tobacco-
smoke, like the voice of some ancient bard, sang the day's
story, tUl the song, blended with a hum of mosquito-music,
turned a lullaby, and the day was finished.
* A rapid.

CHAPTER VII.
BAUL AND SAN FEP-NANDO.
Over the Flooded Llanos, — Abundance of Animated Life, — On the Eio
Tinaoo, — A Tropical Shower. — Sickness. — Arrival at Baul. — One of
the Party Homeward bound. — Sad Eefiections. — Stay at Baul. — Down
the Portuguesa, — Arrival at San Fernando, — The Town. — Preparations
for continuing our Voyage. — A Deliberate Crew,
The sun was many degrees in the heavens when a
voice summoned us from blissful slumber to partake of
the good fare so bountifully provided by the kind people
of the Llanos. The fragrant cafe, the hot corn-cake, carne
frita, or fried beef, with the oft-replenished calabash of
delicious milk, were luxuries fully appreciated. Depart
ing from our hospitable friends and their island-like home,
lifted above the spreading waters, we pushed on over the
inundated country — ^through tangled forest, thick jungles,
. and open reaches, the abodes of milUons of aquatic birds,
which displayed the greatest variety of species. Great
white herons, some as tall as a man, were perched aloft
on the leafless branches of giant trees, standing erect in
couples upon their nest, like ghostly sentinels, guarding
the watery realms. Files of ducks stood stretched along
outspreading boughs,* and thousands more rustling up
¦* Many species of ducks on the Llanos, contrary to the habit of those
birds with us, the wood-duck (Anas sponsa) excepted, perch with apparent
ease upon trees, which we have often seen loaded with them.

82 BAUL AND SAN FEENANDO.
from the turbid element, floated in clouds over our heads.
Guacharacas, parrots, paroquets, and guacamayas, filled the
heavens with their piercing cries, mingled with the wild
notes of countless numbers of flamingoes and spoon-bills,
while bright-colored birds of untold species -winged their
way over the waters. Monstrous caimans floated in the
slimy floods, groups of chattering and yelling monkeys gam
bolled through the forest, and iguanas, alligators in minia
ture, lay basking upon every fallen trunk, and darkened
the trees -with their ugly forms, occasionaUy dropping from
their aerial perches into the water -with a startUng plunge.
These repulsive saurians, from three to six feet in length,
answer well to the description. given by one who probably
was not particularly charmed with their beauty of form,
as being " very ugly snakes, which Nature, after forming
the head and tail, had neglected, until too late, to roll
into shape, giving them afterward four legs, by way of
compensation for her oversight. " These large lizards are
of a variety of species and color, -with a comb-like crest
running along the back, which the animal elevates when
frightened, giving it a most hideous aspect. They pass
a great part of their existence in trees, and may be seen
clinging to the branches which project over the streams,
into which they let themselves drop, upon the approach of
danger. Their flesh is esteemed a great deUcacy and is
eagerly sought by the inhabitants.
Finding no land whereon to build a fire, that we might
cook some of the game which strewed the bottom of our
canoe, we hauled up at mid-day beneath the shade of a
tree, and relieved our hunger with cassava and guarapo, a
favorite beverage of the natives, taken both hot and cold,
made by dissolving papelon in water. Again we floated
on, the banks beginning to rise, and the waters to collect
themselves in a single channel, untU, at length, they were
once more united in a large and impetuous stream, which

A TEOPICAL SHOWER. gg
carried us rapidly down its course. Large patches of
grass, sometimes acres in extent, torn from the banks, or
brought from the flooded plains, were borne along Uke
floating meadows. Our bivouac for the night was in a low,
pestilential jungle, where an untimely rain cut short our
evening meal, and sancudos disturbed our slumbers. We
quitted the inhospitable place at early light, and commit
ted ourselves once more to the swift current of the Ti-
naco, as the lower Pao is called. The scenery was less
varied than upon the previous days of our voyage, and a
stillness pervaded the forest that now fringed the banks,
that was profound as compared with the confused din
of the inundated plain. Here and there a hut was seen
through the woods, surrounded with plantains and yucas—
feeble exponents of civilization in this strange land.
At 3 p. M. we encountered one of those severe storms
which the traveller so often experiences in the tropics.
The heavens opened, and the floods came in torrents that
threatened shipwreck to our frail bark. In vain we en
deavored to protect ourselves fi-om the fury of the storm.
There was only room for one at either end of the carroza ;
and here two forlorn beings might have been seen, with
their heads stowed away among the kettles and provisions,
and with their legs protruding, as convenient conductors
to convey the -v\-ater which the projecting members might
collect, trickling down the back toward the head, when
ever the canoe gave a favorable lurch ; and, at an adverse
plunge of the unstable craft, coursing back into their boots
at the opposite extremity. The strength of the tempest
was at length exhausted, when, dripping with wet, and
shivering from cold, we drew up to the shore, where a
small hut told of food and shelter. Our ever-loquacious
Alvino revived by hot coffee and sancocho to an un
common flow of eloquence, rehearsed the tale of our jour
ney and adventures, drawing forth the frequent exclama-

84 BAUL AND SAN FEENANDO,
tion " Caramba 1 " from his admiring listeners. Reclining
in our hammocks, closely wrapped in our blankets as a
protection against sancudos, we dropped into sweet ob
livion, with the tongue of Alvino still " flo-wdng rapidly. "
How long it may have continued we cannot say.
From the time of leaving Pao, one of the party, Mr.
Gilbert, had sho-wn symptoms of the dreaded calentura
which is so prevalent at this season, upon these submerged
and malarious regions. We at first supposed it only a
slight attack, which need occasion no apprehension, but
the discomforts and exposures of the voyage caused the
fever to assume a more malignant form. We were in no
condition to do much for our companion, and could only
hasten forward to Baul, where was promise of medical
attention and better accommodations. On the afternoon
of the following day, the sixth from our embarkation at
Pao, we reached Baul. In a few days Mr. Gilbert became
convalescent ; but it was, however, too evident that the
fever still lurked in a latent state, and only waited for
favorable circumstances to again develop itseif. For
him to remain longer upon these pestilential plains, could
not be done with impunity, and a return to the north
seemed imperatively demanded. It was with feelings
of regret that we contemplated separating from a mem
ber of our small party, just as we were starting upon
our long, overland journey. But there seemed no alterna
tive, and accordingly preparations were made by which
he accompanied our boatmen back to Pao ; from there he
made his way across the Cordilleras to Puerto CabeUo,
whence he sailed for home.
Two days after this event, the time fixed for our depart
ure from Baul, the calentura again invaded the party and
prostrated my only remaining companion. For three
days we watched, with no little anxiety, the progress of
the fever, as it continued to increase in severity. These

BAUL. 85
were, indeed, dark days to us. We recaUed the admoni
tion so frequently given us not to venture upon the mias
matic rivers, and lowlands of the interior, especiaUy at
this season. We were even now persistently urged to
turn back. But a brighter day soon dawned, and hope
began to take the place of momentary despair. The fever
having spent its strength, the patient rapidly recovered ;
and we again sought opportunity to resume our journey.
We may here state that, notwithstanding predictions,
which were far from being comforting to us, this was our
only detention from sickness during our four months'
voyage upon the rivers of the interior, although we were
continually meeting with natives, oftentimes entire fami
lies, who were sufferers from the intermittent fever of the
country. Our delay of two weeks at Baul gave us an opportuni
ty to become acquainted -with the place and its environs.
There was, however, not much that had special interest
either to the naturalist or casual visitor. Baul stands at
the junction of the Trinaco and Cojede Rivers, stretching
mostly along the latter, between its right bank and the
hUls which rise directly back of the town upon the south.
These isolated hills were the last elevations we saw, until
reaching the Orinoco. The town claims ten thousand in
habitants, but probably has less than two-thirds that es
timate. The botany of this region is not extensive, and
the zoology still less varied, but it has some fine repre
sentative species ; tigers, pumas, deer, and several species
of monkeys, abound upon the savannas and in the forest
tracts. Morning and evening we heard from the corridor
of our posada the howls of the araguato; while deer
would frequently be seen taking their lookout from the
brow of the hUls in rear of the town.
Our protracted stay at Baul was at length terminated.
Through the assistance of Dr. E. Landaeta, a gentleman

86 BAUL AND SAN FEENANDO.
who had been a warm friend to us through all our sick
ness, we procured passage to San Fernando de Apure in a
bongo which was bound thither with a cargo of maize and
fruits. The 14th of October had been agreed upon for
our departure; but, as it was late in the day before the
captain, or patron, could complete preparations, it was
determined by him to defer sailing until the second day
following, although ready to go upon the morrow, but
that was Tuesday, the " unlucky day " of the Spaniard.
The matter was, however, finally readjusted : we were to
go that day a short distance down the river, when we
would draw up for the night, thus commencing our jour
ney ; then the following morning we could proceed, -with
out being subject to the evils which would befall us for
starting upon such an unpropltious day as Tuesday. Our
feelings of pleasure, in being able to resume our journey,
were mingled with those of regret at parting from friends
who had been so attentive to our wants, and who, upon
our departure, gave us kind tokens of remembrance,
and comforts for our voyage. We could see the tears
glisten in the eyes of the good old lady, our hostess, as
she gave the farewell shake of the hand, saying, " Cuidado
que los sancudos ne se lo eoman'''' (take care that the sancu
dos do not eat you up). How much there was to heed in
this injunction will appear hereafter.
Our resting-place for the night was, as we have inti
mated, but a short distance below the town, where we
were tendered the hospitalities of a hut in the midst of a
banana-grove ; some swinging their hammocks inside the
dwelling, others under the trees, both places alike so in
fested with sancudos that self-preservation was our only
thought.* Were we so soon to realize the import of the last
* There are several species of culices, or sancudos, in South America ;
the one most common on the Portuguesa and Apure being of a blue color,
with a bite more irritating than that of our northern mosquito.

DOWN THE PORTUGUESA. 87
words from our hostess at Baul ? Was this the region of
insect torments of which we had so often heard ? Poor in
nocents, we little knew the capabilities of Venezuela, or
dread would have possessed our souls. This was but a
paradise to where our joumeyings were yet to lead us.
We battled with sancudos until the hour of midnight,
when the moon, appearing above the forest level, sug
gested the practicability of navigating by its light ; and, as
any thing was preferable to remaining iu such an infested
place, we reembarked, and, pushing out into the middle of
the stream, floated slowly down the dark waters, the dull
thud of our heavy oars alone breaking the silence, so pro
found as to be almost painful. We were now less annoyed
by insects, the few there were being swept astern by the
gentle breeze produced by the motion of the boat.
Our four days' journey down the Portuguesa, from Baul
to San Fernando, was not a very stirring or eventful one.
The scenery was the most monotonous we had -witnessed,
not even a hill, or the slightest elevation, rising upon the
view for a relief; but we were shut in by forests that
lined the shores, with no escape for the eye except as it
gazed heavenward, toward a dazzling, burning sun. Ow
ing to the sancudos which so densely populated the river-
banks, our voyage was interrupted at night only by a
short rest, we leaving our bivouac as soon as the moon
arose, and dispelled the darkness that settled in the forest
channel. Rains were frequent ; and when they came we
sometimes sought the shelter of our carroza, which, in
this bongo, was sufficiently high to admit of a sitting pos
ture; but, as it was a perfect paradise for sancudos,
besides being as hot as an oven, we often preferred a wet
ting to remaining in such a place of torture.
At noon of our third day from Baul, we came to the
smaU town of San Jaime upon the right bank, and by
dark we arrived at Camaguan, a town upon the left bank

88 BAUL AND SAN FEENANDO.
of the Portuguesa, of some three or four thousand in
habitants, the most considerable place upon the river
between Baul and San Fernando. In the morning, having
discharged a portion of the cargo from the bongo, we de
parted. There was the same monotonous aspect of the
scenery as had characterized the landscape from Baul;
the banks, nowhere of any considerable elevation above
the river, were generally covered -with forest varying in
width from a hundred yards to upward of a mile, with
the plain beyond, an open savanna, submerged by the
water. The Portuguesa is quite a formidable river, and
of sufficient depth to float the largest vessels up to Baul.
Since our return from Venezuela, we have been gratified
to know that there has been established, by an American
company, a line of steamers which pass up the Orinoco
and Apure to San Fernando, thus opening up a vast and
imiDortant region to the commerce of the world. A simi
lar line was in operation some years ago, but poUtical
dissensions occasioned its discontinuance. We hope for
better success to the new enterprise.*
The morning of the flfth day of our voyage from Baul
had not fully dawned, when our canoe, gUding into the
waters of the Apure, brought us soon in sight of San Fer
nando. Having had our imaginations highly -wrought by
exaggerated reports — a prevaUing weakness characteristic
of this peoi^le — it was a feeling of disappointment that
accompanied our first view of the narrow town -with its
long row of low, white buildings, stretched along the
scarcely-elevated margin of the river, and backed by a
monotonous forest. What most attracted our attention
* Since writing the above, we learn that steamers have ceased run
ning up the Apure, going only as far as Ciudad Bolivar, or Angostura,
as more commonly called by Venezuelians, a town about three hundred
miles up the Orinoco.

SAN FERNANDO. 89
was a small steamer, that had come up from Angostura,
with a party of VenezueUan officials, and was lying at
anchor in the river. A shrill whistle from the craft as we
approached, breaking the stUhiess of the morning, as it
resounded through the half-wakeful town and the deep
forest, was a strange sound to hear in these wild regions
of the Llanos. The position of San Fernando, at the
junction of two great rivers, whose tributaries, taking
their rise in the littoral chain upon the north, and among
the snowy peaks of Colombia upon the west, traverse so
large a territory, and its easy communication -with the
coast by a water-course that is navigable for the largest
vessels, afford to the town unusual commercial facilities.
San Fernando, far removed from the centre of volcanic
action, h^s rested secure from the devastating shock of
convulsive Nature, but has witnessed other scenes scarcely
less dreadful than those of the earthquake. During the
season of 1855-56 it was visited by that terrible scourge,
cholera, which, confining its ravages almost exclusively to
those whose mode of life and sanitary habits are so con
ducive to contagious diseases everywhere, swept off nearly
all the lower and laboring portion of the inhabitants.
BuUdings stood partiaUy erected; the forge was aban
doned ; shops were closed ; and work of all kind ceased
on account of an unanswered call for labor. Sewing-
machines were introduced, and even then it was -with the
greatest difficulty that the people could be suppUed with
clothing. Although more than a decade of years has
since passed, stUl the equiUbrium of the labor and capital
elements has not yet been restored. The population is,
however, slowly increasing, and at present is estimated
at about four thousand. In 1859, during one of the politi
cal convulsions we have so often had occasion to refer to,
the town again suffered a serious calamity, m being sacked
and one-haK of it being destroyed by fire. It has agam

90 BAUL AND SAN FEENANDO.
been rebuilt in a more substantial manner. The introduc
tion of brick a few years since, for architectural purposes,
is one stride forward in Venezuelian reform — the clay of
the Llanos furnishing the requisite material for their
manufacture. During the season of greatest floods, the country
around San Fernando is submerged, thus islanding the
town, when the canoe is the only means of maintaining
communication with other places. The heat throughout
the year is excessive, attaining its maximum in July and
August, the months of heaviest rains, when it reaches a
height of about 100° in the shade. In the dry season the
temperature is about ten degrees lower. In October, the
time of our visit at San Fernando, the rainy period of
the year was rapidly closing ; but the Llanos were, for the
most part, still inundated. The subsiding of the waters
marks the time when intermittent fevers rage the worst,
and insects swarm the thickest. The fearful accounts we
had received of sancudos upon the Apure, and our own
experience with them upon the Portuguesa, led us to pro
cure netting of fine cloth, which we made into mosquiteros
of such form and dimensions that, they would cover our
hammocks entire when suspended. Beneath this protec
tion, we could lie secure, and smile at sancudos as they
hovered in clouds without.
Through our letter of introduction,- we made the ac
quaintance of Seiior L. Diez, an intelligent and gentle
manly physician, highly esteemed in San Fernando, who
cordiaUy invited us to partake of the hospitalities of his
house. The doctor was a great lover of pets, and lived
surrounded by a perfect menagerie of the inhabitants of
the savannas and forest. Birds, large and small, of singu
lar species and beautiful plumage, filled his house and
court-yard ; among them a great noisy guacamaya, -which
had the run of the premises, and was as loquacious and as

PREPARATIONS TO RESUME OUR JOURNEY. 91
great a gormandizer as Viviano, our Pao boatman ; for he
was, seemingly, never happy unless calling for " El doc
tor," who would comply with his peremptory demands
for bread, fruits, and the long list of edibles, which he
would roll off in Spanish, Uke some old veteran in the lan
guage. Among his larger fondlings was a young jaguar,
or tiger, which, although quite large, evinced none of the
unpleasant traits ascribed to that species. This animal the
doctor desired us to accept and take to om- country ; but
lack of transportation privileges, with the thought of a
jaguar in the same bongo with ourselves, for a voyage of
two thousand miles, led us reluctantly to decUne the prof
fered gift. WTiat contributed stUl more to the pleasure
of our visit in San Fernando, was our further acquaintance
with General E. Est6, who was unremitting in his atten
tions, and who could, withal, converse in our native tongue,
a treat we always richly enjoyed, and which was not again
afforded us until we reached the Amazons.
Three days had been spent at San Fernando, when, an
opportunity presenting itseK whereby we could proceed on
our journey to the Orinoco, we determined to embrace it.
Two large bongos, freighted with maize, papelon, and
aguardiente, and accompanied by a small canoe, were on
their return down the Apure, and were ready to start
within two hours from the time we first received intima
tion of their intended departure. As the large boats were
heavOy loaded, the little craft was to convey us to Asaiba,
a hacienda upon Rio Clarito, where we could exchange for
one of the bongos, which, -with a reduced cargo, from that
place was destined for Urbana on the Orinoco. Having
been promised letters of recommendation from the presi
dent of the province of Apure, we sought the chief execu
tive at his private residence. Reaching the house designa
ted to us, rather an inferior one even for San Fernando,
we passed through the open arcade, and, crossing the com-t-

02 BAUL AND SAN FERNANDO.
yard, came to a low, dirty room, black with soot and blind
ing -with smoke, where we beheld a large, swarthy negro,
with coat off and sleeves rolled up, engaged in the culi
nary operations of the kitchen. To this gentleman we
were introduced as the official in question. He proved
eminently successful in inditing a grandiloquent recom
mendation. Having hastily secured our supplies for the voyage, we
were at the landing by 5 p. m., the hour designated for
starting, and found the two bongos just pushing off; but
our own crew were nowhere to be found. Waiting until
dark, without any signs of their appearing, we started
upon a hunt for them through the to-wn, returning, after
an hour or more of fruitless search, to find one of the
rascals, the best part of whom was Indian, sitting with
great complacency upon his haunches, on the beach,
smoking his evening regalia. In course of another hour
the patron, a great shambling son of Afric, made his ap
pearance, and, doubling his lower extremities imder him,
also squatted very coolly upon the ground to discuss " the
situation." We brought the conference to a hasty close^
when they very deliberately coUected the provisions,
kettles, and luggage, into the canoe, and stationing them
selves, one in the stern to steer, and the other at the bow
to paddle, we were finally moving along, more by the force
of the current than by any exertions of our boatmen.

CHAPTER VHI.
AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
Aspect of the Inundated Plains.— Wild Horses and Cattle.— Crocodiles.—
Anacondas. — Electric Eels. — Cannibal-Fish. — Experiences upon the
Payara.— Myriads of Aquatic Birds.— A Breakfast and Cock-fight.—
Manati, or "Sea-cow." — Upon the Arauca. — Over Flooded Savan
nas, — ^At Asaiba. — Niguas. — Jaguar. — Abnormal Butchering. — Em
barked for the Orinoco. — Navigating Submerged Forest. — ^Lost upon
the Llanos. — An Uncomfortable Night. — Arrival upon the Orinoco.
OuE first experiences upon the Apure were terminated
at a late hour, by our hauUng up in the immediate vicinity
of a sugar-mill in operation, where aU night, long the
tramp of animals, as they turned the rude grinding-ma-
ehine, kept time to the hum of sancudos that filled the air.
The next morning, early, we recommenced our voyage.
The banks became lower as we proceeded, imtil they final
ly sank beneath the floods, when we pushed out of the
river-channel over the inundated savannas. During the
season of rains, the Apure, Arauca, Cunaviche, and Ca-
pauaparo Rivers, -with their labyrinth of branches, by their
overflow submerge a vast territory, which presents the as
pect of an inland sea. The hamlets and huts which are
scattered here and there over the savannas scarcely rise
above the surface of the water. CrocodUes and anacon
das, with other reptilian monsters, which lie buried in the
dry mud of the Llanos during the months of drought,

94 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
now hold high carnival in their flooded realms. The wild
horses and cattle, which feed in such immenae numbers
upon the plains, seek the mountains and elevated lands
until the waters subside, and the renewed verdure of
spring invites them again to their favorite haunts. Thou
sands are oftentimes overtaken by the periodical deluge,
and perish by drowning, or fall prey to crocodiles, water-
serpents, and other inhabitants of the element.
When we reflect upon the many influences that are
continually at work for the diminution of these animals, it
is not a little surprising that they should maintain their
races against the great devastation which would seem to
threaten almost their annihilation. Those that escape the
perils of the water are continually in danger from the
wild beasts which are crowded with them upon the up
lands of the savannas. Pestilential diseases often sweep
them away by thousands, while man is ever waging
against them a war of destruction. Nor are they free
fi-om annoying insects, which torment them by day and
night, and bats that drain their blood, while lulUng them
with the breath of their noiseless wings, leaving wounds
that become dreadful by reason of poisonous flies which
infest them. The -wild cattle are far more numerous than
the horses, and are mostly owned by herdsmen, whose
mark they bear. At certain seasons a grand hunt is or
ganized, the cattle are gathered, and all unmarked ones
branded, when those not wanted are released to ao-ain
roam at freedom upon the savannas. The Llanero is as
little able to tell the number of his cattle, as he is to
bound the limits of his vast possessions. Humboldt esti
mated that 1,200,000 cattle and 180,000 horses graze
upon the plains of Venezuela ; -while there exist upon the
Pampas of Buenos Ayres 12,000,000 cattle aud 3,000,000
horses. There are several species of scaly saurians, to which wo

CROCODILES.

95

have aUuded, that inhabit the waters of the Llanos. The
largest is the true crocodUe, like those of the NUe and
Ganges. It differs from the alligator, also common here,
.and which resembles the species of that name found in
our Southern States, in having a longer and narrower head,
as well as in dentition. The alUgator and crocodile, espe
cially the latter, are the most crafty and dangerous pests of
all the lagoons and rivers of the Llanos. Both species are
known to the natives by the name of caiman. They are
oviparous animals, laying eggs, small in proportion to
their size, with a hard, rough shell. Their laterally com
pressed tail is the great instrument of progression when
in water, and j>ossesses such strength that a crocodile can
easily overthrow with it the canoe of the Indians, when
the hapless voyagers fall an easy prey to the voracious
monster. The wearied traveller, sleeping at night upon
the bank of the stream, is liable to a stroke from this pow
erful appendage, which will send him reeling into the
water — and into the jaws of waiting crocodiles. They
seem to have an antipathy to attacking any thing upon
land, but in the water they are masters of the situation.
They deUght in basking upon the shelving bank of the
stream, where they Ue with gaping jaws, and motionless
as a log, as disgusting and horrible looking objects as
can well be imagined. Like the colossal anaconda, and
most of the serpent-tribe of the Llanos, the caiman buries
itself in the mud, when the falling waters leave bare the
savannas, and spends the long, dry season in a state of
hibemal lethargy. Upon the return of rains, the mois
tened soil gives up its living dead, and the plains again
swarm -with reptUian Ufe. The Llanero hut, which has been
deserted by its occupants during the months of inunda
tion, is sometimes said to become the hibernal quarters
of these inhabitants of the deluge, which, bursting their
prison walls with the vivifying showers of spring, come

96 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS,
forth to the astonishment and horror of the inmates of
the dwelUng. In the equinoctial zone it is the increase of
humidity that recalls these animals to Ufe, while, in tem
perate latitudes, it is the increase of heat that rouses them
from their lethargy. " It is a curious physiological phe
nomenon, " remarks Humboldt, in his " Travels," " to ob
serve the alligators of North America plunged into a vsdnter-
sleep by excess of cold, at the same period when the croco
diles of the Llanos begin their siesta or summer-sleep.
If it were probable that these animals of the same famUy
had heretofore inhabited the same northem country, we
might suppose that, in advancing toward the equator,
they feel the want of repose after having exercised their
muscles for seven or eight months, and that they retain
under a new sky the habits which appear to be essentially
linked with their organization. "
We have referred to the ophidian monsters which
tenant these submerged regions, and are such a terror to
the animal kingdom over which they hold universal sway ;
even the large and fierce jaguar yielding superiority to
these reptilian monsters. The species most common upon
the Llanos of Venezuela is the anaconda (Ennectes inuri-
nus), called by the natives culebra de agua, a larger and
more voracious serpent than the boa-constrictor, and less
terrestrial in its habits. The anaconda is from twenty to
thirty feet in length, and instances are not uncommon of
its attaining the enormous length of forty feet. Its capa
bility of swallowing prey so many times its o-wn bulk is
truly astonishing ; not even the pride ofthe herd, the Llano
bull, says Paez, escaping its deadly embrace. It does not
attempt to swallow the horns of stags, but, as is asserted
by the writer above quoted, these indigestible append
ages are left protruding from its mouth, until time removes
them by the natural process of decay. The anac6nda is
able to survive a long period without food, even when not

ELECTRIC EELS.

97

gorged ; and we have seen them decline a live creature,
introduced into their cage, when they had been confined
for months -without any thing to sustain Ufe. The skin is
converted into leather for straps, which are remarkable for
their toughness and durabiUty. This, together with the
thick hide of the caiman, which makes exceUent saddles,
furnishes the native with his outfit for travel and the chase.
The caiman and serpents are not the only terrors of
these Stygian floods. The lagoons and marshy waters are
inhabited by innumerable gymnoti, or electric eels, which
are able to communicate an electrical shock sufficiently
strong to overpower a man, and paralyze for hours the
limb that comes in immediate contact. In experimenting
with some of these " animal electrical machines, " which
had been secured by the Indians, we received discharges
that caused, for some time afterward, a most painful sen
sation in the member with which we grasped them. Hum
boldt, in his " Views of Nature," gives the following graphic
description of the mode of capturing the gymnotus by
the natives : " A number of mules and horses are driven
mto a swamj), which is closely surrounded by Indians, un
til the unusual noise excites the daring fish to venture on
an attack. Serpent-like they are seen swimming along
the surface of the water, striving cunningly to gUde under
the bellies of the horses. By the force of their invisible
blows numbers of the poor animals are suddenly prostrat
ed ; others, snorting and panting, their manes erect, their
eyes wildly flashing with terror, rush madly from the
raging storm ; but the Indians, armed -with long bamboo
staves, drive them back into the midst of the pool. By
degrees the fury of this unequal contest begins to slacken.
Like clouds that have discharged their electricity, the
wearied eels disperse. They require long rest and nourish
ing food to repair the galvanic force which they have so
lavishly expended. Their shocks gradually become weaker

98 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
and weaker. Terrified by the noise of the trampling
horses, they timidly approach the brink of the morass,
where they are wounded by harpoons, and drawn on shore
by non-conducting poles of dry wood."
But what is dreaded even more than the jaws of the
crocodile, the coils of the anaconda, or the j)Owerful bat
tery of the electrical eel, is the caribe, or cannibal-fish,
which literally swarms the rivers of the Llanos, rendering
it exceedingly dangerous to enter the water. The ferocity
of this bold and ravenous Uttle pest is terrible ; and at
the scent of blood they are attracted in such myriads,
that the largest animal will quickly be consumed by them.
The largest caribe is four or five inches in length, with
fierce eyes, large mouth, and teeth so exceedingly sharp
as to be able to sever ordinary hooks as if they were but
slender threads. The Waraun Indians, alluded to in a
preceding chapter, who inhabit the submerged lands at
the mouth of the Orinoco, and live in trees, without even
a spot of ground in which to deposit their mortal remains,
avail themselves of the ravenous proclivities of the caribe-
fish to dispose of the flesh of their deceased relatives.
" For this purpose they tie the corpse with a strong rope,
and plunge it into the water, securing the other end of the
rope to one of the pillars upon which their dwelUngs rest :
in less than twenty-four hours the skeleton is hauled out of
the water perfectly clean, for the teeth of the caribe have
stripped it of flesh, arteries, tendons, etc. Now aU that
the mourners have to do is, to separate the bones, which
they arrange with much care and nicety in baskets made
for the purpose, gaudily ornamented -with beads of various
colors ; and so well have they calculated beforehand the
space the bones will occupy in the funereal urn, that the
skull, tightly adjusted against the sides of the basket at
the top, comes to be the lid of it." *
* Paez, " Adventures in South and Central America."

EXPERIENCES UPON THE PAYARA. 99
But, to return from this zoological digression. In the
season of inundation, the native who wishes to cross the
Llanos, instead of following the sinuosities of the rivers,
whose boundaries are generally marked by wooded banks,
themselves often submerged, turns his canoe in the direction
of his destination, and, by known land-marks that rise above
the spreading waters, or, when these are wanting, by the
sun in the heavens, guides his bark across the country.
While distance is thus generally saved, difficulties are not
unfrequently encountered — shallow water and tangled
thickets, which impede the progress of the voyager. The
traveller from San Fernando to Urbana, by traversing
the flooded lands of the Apure and Arauca, escapes stem
ming some twenty leagues of the strong current of the
Orinoco. Although the waters had considerably subsided,
our natives chose the shorter route, as it would lead them
more direct to their Llano home. Over this -wide expanse
of water we now pushed ; at times following the channel
of a stream, again threading our way across broad plains,
covered with grasses, the tops just rising above the sur
face of the floods. The aspect of the country was dreary
in the extreme ; a flat, monotonous waste upon every side,
sweeping to the horizon ; the eye finding relief only now
and then as it rested upon a clump of palms, Ufting them
selves above the waters, or a line of trees, marking the
course of some river. Vast herds of wild cattle were
seen, which, at our approach, would go plunging and swim
ming through the water. The amphibious life these ani
mals lead at the season of inundation is a remarkable
feature in their existence. The flora of this region pre
sented nothing striking, and but few species of flowering
plants were found. This is characteristic of the Llanos,
which produce Uttle, aside from sedges and grasses, upon
their level expanse.
Toward the close of our first day's adventures upon

100 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
the flooded plains constituting the great delta of tlie
Apure, we emerged from a creek, that we had for some
little time been following, into the Payara, one of the
large branches of this net-work of rivers. Discovering
upon its elevated banks a habitation, haK-concealed in a
banana-grove, we pulled up for the night. For want of
room within the dirty, gloomy hovel, we stretched our
hammocks between banana-trunks — herbs of a year's
growth, eight and ten inches in diameter, and ten to
twelve feet in height. We were not yet initiated in the
use of mosquiteros, and many sancudos secured admis
sion at the same time with ourselves, much to our discom
fort. Turning and shaking our nets, we made another
trial for solitary companionship, which proved even more
unsuccessful than our first. Again and again, the revers
ing and shaking process was repeated, but after each
operation the number of sancudos within multipUed, until
they seemed to be more numerous within than -without.
As a last resort we rolled ourselves in our blankets, fi-om
head to foot ; but the stifling heat soon rendered this
unsupportable, when, in despair, we abandoned our ham
mocks, and passed the long hours of the night in walk
ing to and fro along the river-bank, crouching occasionally,
¦when wearied in batting with our unseen foe, in the smoke
of our smouldering fire. Morning came, when we "wi-eaked
vengeance on our persecutors, by gathering up our nets,
and crushing by wholesale the imprisoned sancudos.
Our bongos, having gone some distance to an estate to
discharge a portion of their cargo, were detained through
the day, and, having with them the supplies for the entire
party, we were forced to wait for their retui-n, and pass
another night in this infested place, to which Egypt, in the
days of its plagues, must have been a perfect paradise.
Of all the annoyances to which the traveUer on these
rivers is subjected, the insects are the most to be dreaded.

MYRIADS OF AQUATIC BIRDS, loi
For supper we obtained a fine ichthyological specimen from
the river, and invited the sole occupant of the hut to share
with us, -which act we had ample occasion to seriously re
gret. That, like ourselves, he had eaten little or nothing
since the day previous was more than probable, although
a banana-grove stood at his door, loaded with fruit, and a
stream filled with fish flowed by his hut. His mud hovel,
where, in his hammock, he spent the greater part of his
existence, was a den of filth and darkness. At intervals,
when the stings of sancudos were no longer endurable, he
would gather an armful of weeds and sticks with which to
build a smudge for expelling the insects fi-om his hut,
which being secured, he would remove the heap of burning
rubbish just outside the entrance, and place a stiff ox-hide
against the only aperture to render the exclusion of the
pest doubly effectual, and then settle himself back into his
hammock for another siesta.
After another wretched night among the sancudos of
Payara, we were joined by our bongos and gladly pushed,
on our journey. The banks again gradually lowering, we
once more found entrance upon the submerged land. In
some places the waters were collected into channels of
great depth, in others they spread out over the plain, re
peating again the scenes of the Pao. The ah was literaUy
filled -with dense flocks of cranes, herons, flamingoes,
spoonbiUs, and other aquatic birds, while thousands more
whitened the half-submerged plain. Where the banks
were visible they were lined with caimans, alongside which
stalked with martial air great soldados,* whUe toninas,
fresh-water porpoises, sported in the water, spouting jets
of water, like the larger cetaceans of the ocean, and, fre
quently rising near the boat, would salute us with a start-
* The soldado, or soldier-bird, is a species of heron ; one we secured
measured eight feet and seven inches between the tips of its wings, and
stood about five feet in height.

102 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS,
ling explosion. At 11 a, m. we drew up to an elevated
island-spot for breakfast, where we shot a wild-boar, such
as wander in herds over the savannas. Removing the
head, and dividing the body lengthwise into halves, the
hair was singed, and the meat sufficiently roasted over a
huge fire to preserve it until we should bivouac for the
night. The wild-hog of the Llanos is the common species,
escaped from domestication, and, like the wUd horses and
cattle which feed upon the plains in such numbers, is not
indigenous, but was introduced by Euro23eans upon the first
settlement of the country.
Having spent the night upon a wooded bank, at three
o'clock the following morning all things were again towed
on board, and we were once more in motion up the Ata-
maica. At 10 a. m. we stopped for breakfast and a cock
fight. A feathered gamester constitutes an essential ac
companiment of the Llanero voyager, and, on every oppor
tunity that presented itself, our patron trotted out his bird
for a contest.
We saw here the manati, or vaca marina (sea-cow),
called by the Brazilians peixe boi, ot: cow-fish, which had
been captured by the natives. This seal-like mammal be
longs to the cetaceous family, is from eight to fifteen feet
in length, and sometimes exceeds one thousand pounds in
weight. The head is small, with thick, fleshy Ups and a
large mouth. Its eyes and auricular organs are very
small, yet the senses of both these organs are exceedingly
acute. The body is -covered with a smooth, thick skin ;
the flesh, something between pork and beef, is held in high
estimation by the inhabitants. The fat of the animal,
called manteca de manati, manati-butter, is void of tliat
odor peculiar to cetaceous oil generally, and is used for
illumination and cooking ; while the strong skin, cut into
strips, supplies the natives with cords and ropes. This
herbaceous cetacea inhabits the waters of the Lower Orino-

UPON THE AEAUCA.

103

CO and most of its tributaries below the Great Cataracts,
being especially abundant in the lagoons and marshes of
the Llanos, where prodigious numbers are annually caught.
One mode of capturing it is by building stockades across
the outlets of creeks and lakes, up which the animals have
passed during the time of high water, and when the floods
subside they are easily taken. Another method is by har
pooning them when they rise to the surface to breathe,
which they are frequently obliged to do. When exhausted
by its mad flight, dragging after it in -wild speed the canoe
to which it is attached by a long cord, fastened to the
missile that has penetrated its body, it at length yields
itself a victim, and its body floats upon the water. It is
then dispatched by its pursuers, who, springing overboard,
immerse the canoe and sUp it under the huge monster.
They then bale out the water, and, seating themselves
upon their captive, row to land -with their cargo.
Before noon we entered upon the broad, muddy cur
rent of the Arauca. The banks were elevated and heavily
wooded; and groups of monkeys (araguatos and monos),
gambolled through the branches and upon the thick cordage
of lianas, that embraced the giant trunks, and interlaced
their boughs. Conspicuous amid this luxuriant growth of
vegetation was the saman, that species of mimosa which
attains to such magniflcent proportions in the valley of
Aragua. Its umbrella-shaped cro-wn of delicate, feathery
leaves, with each tree almost a forest in itself, presents
one of the striking features in the vegetation of the Llanos
of the Apure. The Bombax ceiba, or wild cotton-tree,
is also abundant here, and is one of the most useful, as it
is one of the most imposing, of the forest monarchs. The
immense size of its trunk, and the softness of its wood,
render it extremely valuable for large canoes. Our two
bongos were hollowed out from this tree, and would meas
ure forty feet in length and over six between the sides,
6

104 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS,
¦with scarcely any perceptible difference in size between
the two extremities. The ceiba produces a pod, contain
ing a fine, silky cotton, which is used by the Indians for
the flechetes, or light arrows, of their blow-guns, besides
being useful for a variety of purposes where the ordinary
cotton would be too coarse and heavy. We occasionally
got sight of a perro de agua, or water-dog ; but their ex
treme shyness seldom afforded us an opportunity for a
close acquaintance with these somewhat singular animals.
They resemble in their general aspect a beaver, are three
and four feet in length, and have a very fine fur. An
other strange denizen of these rivers, which we frequently
saw, is the chiguire,* or water-hog, but in no way is it
aUied to the land-quadruped of that name. It is the
largest kno'wn rodent, measuring at least three feet in
length, is exceedingly bulky, and without a tail. It is
found in great numbers in the districts of the Apure and
Orinoco, roaming over land and water for its subsistence,
delighting particularly in the sweet stalks of the sugar
cane. It possesses a most offensive odor, with a fishy
flavor to its flesh ; notwithstanding, the jaguars feed rav
enously upon them, -svhile the Indians regard them as ex
cellent eating.
After several unsuccessful attempts to reach the sub
merged plain which stretched out to the southward, by
passing through breaks in the low banks of the Arauca,
we at last succeeded. The water was nowhere of any
great depth, aud often our heavily-laden bongos ran
aground ; when the natives, jumping overboard and apply
ing their shoulders to the crafts, would push them along
to where the water was of sufficient depth to acjain float
them. We soon entered a lagoon, the source of the Rio
Clarito, but its boundaries it was impossible to deter
mine, as the banks were nowhere visible above the water
* IlydrochiErus capybara.

AT ASAIBA. 105
which inundated the country in every direction to the
horizon. Garzons, and the many species of white aquatic
birds which had become so familiar to us, had left these
domains almost exclusively to ducks and geese, which
were here in thousands, and filled the air with their cries.
Now and then was seen a brace of noisy guacamayas, or
a flock of parrots, ¦winging their way over the watery
waste toward more promising realms. Unable to find
dry land upon which we could bivouac, we contented our
selves with some bits of cassava we had remaining on
board, and continued our voyage, reaching, by 10 p. m.,
Asaiba, the island estate of the commander of our log fleet.
Here we had our first experience with jiggers, or niguas
{Pulex penetrans), which, as we discovered in the morning,
filled the sand beneath our hammocks. We had heard
much, and seen not a little, of the effects resulting from
the burrowing of these minute insects beneath the skin,
but had never ourselves before been made the object of
their attentions. This microscopic insect generally buries
itself in some part of the feet, but no portion of the body
is exempted from them. Having found for itself a home,
it deposits a cluster of eggs, enclosed in a sack, which,
upon developing, colonize the lunb in which they are
estabUshed. The first incUcation of the presence of the
insect is a peculiar itching sensation, which is foUowed in
a few days, if the removal of the nigua be neglected, by
swelUng, that in time becomes exceedingly painful. It is
not uncommon to see among the natives jiggered feet dis
tended to frightful proportions ; the affected member re
taining permanently its unnatural size. Not unfrequently
they render amputation necessary, and sometimes occasion
death. Foreigners are especially subject to their attacks ;
and the effects resulting therefrom upon such are also
worse than upon the natives of the country. For mothers
to search the feet of their chUdren for niguas, is as much

106 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
a part of their daily task as to fumish the household with
food ; while their own extremities are to them a source of
ceaseless care.
We were shown at this hacienda a huge jaguar, or
tiger, as it is called by the natives, which had been shot
upon the day previous. This animal, the Felis on^a of
naturalists, is abundant in the Llanos, as weU as in most
parts of South America. It is nearly equal in size to the
royal tiger of the East, and possesses much of the ferocity
and daring of that animal, but differs from it in the marking
of its skin, which, instead of being striped, is mottled.
Another characteristic pecuUar to the jaguar is, unUke the
Bengal tiger, its ability to climb trees -with ease, however
smooth the trunk. It moves ¦with the greatest agUity
among the branches, making birds and sometimes mon
keys its prey. It is a frequent -visitor, at night, to the
encampment of the traveller, but is kept at a respectfiil
distance by a fire. Turtles, with their impenetrable cover
ing, often fall a prey to the jaguar, which secures the flesh,
asserts Humboldt, by flrst turning them upon their backs,
when, insinuating his paw between the sheUs, he empties.
them of their contents. He is also a good flsher, confining
his operations to the margins of streams, hurling his prey
upon the land with his paw. Allied to the jaguar is the
puma, or South American lion (Felis concolor), the same
as our panther, but much larger, and more predaceous in
its habits. It is of a tawny aud nearly uniform color, pos
sessing most of the traits of its spotted congener. It is
frequently met iu the mountains of Venezuela, and is not
uncommon upon the lowlands of the interior. Besides
the jaguar and puma, there is a black tiger, which is larger
and more ferocious than cither of the others, but is not
common upon the Llanos, the forests of the Orinoco and
Amazons being its more favorite haunts.
We delayed half a day at Asaiba to procure suppUes

ABNOEMAL BUTCHEEIN6. 107
for the remainder of our voyage to the Orinoco. An ox
was slaughtered, and the meat rolled in salt and thrown
upon the hide which covered the cargo of the boat, there
to bake in the hot sun. The manner of kUling a beef on
the Llanos is not one of the least novel sights beheld by
the traveller in that country. If the herd be in a corral,
the animal is easily captured, but, if upon the savanna, the
lassoing and bringing of a victim to the place of execution
generally afford an exciting 'time. The bullock being
secured, the matador cautiously approaches with a knife,
and, by a dexterous thrust just back of the horns, brings
the animal to the ground. The flesh is stripped from the
carcass, -without any special regard to anatomy, or the
" cuts " of the butcher, leaving the skeleton whole as if
picked by vultures. Sitting in a circle around the slaugh
tered beast are a dozen or more half-starved, wolfish dogs,
while the trees about are dark with zamuros, or black
vultures,* waiting for their portion of the spoils. Almost
before the way is clear, there is a general rushing, tearing,
and pulling, and not always does the best harmony prevail
among the hairy and feathered scavengers. The gristly
sheets of meat are salted and hung over poles out of the
reach of birds and dogs, to cure and toughen. The more
flies, dirt, and smoke that can get to it, the better ; for
thereby is secured that odor so peculiar to South American
jerked beef.
By noon we were ready to embark. One of the large
bongos, freighted with maize and papelon for Urbana
market, together with supplies for our voyage thither,
received us aboard. Our crew consisted of two rowers,
and a patron, Celestino Gomez, who bore the title of cap
tain, from having served in that capacity in one of the
political wars of the republic. Our craft was uncovered,
thus exposing us to the excessive heat of the sun. Upon
* Cathartes atratus.

108 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS,
the savannas of the Apure, the temperature of the day, as
we have before stated, often rises above 100° Fahr., and
this is but little lessened by the shades of night. When
the sun was obscured by clouds which overcast the heav
ens, thus impeding radiation from the earth, the heat
became even more oppressive.
The Rio Clarito, do-wn whose course we were floating,
has its waters, as the name of the river signifies, beauti
fully clear ; yet the stream 'appears of an inky color, re
flecting Ught so admirably that we could see our image as
in a mirror. Notwithstanding the presence of a coloring
principle, imparted to the waters by percolation through
the thick masses of vegetable matter -which cover the earth,
these aguas negras' or black waters, as they are called,
had to us an agreeable, although a pecuUar, taste, and
were preferable to the white, muddy mixtures of the Pao,
Apure, and Orinoco, such as we were compelled to use for
so long a time. It must be borne in mind that springs in
the interior are of rare occurrence; we traveUed fi-om
Valencia to Para, a distance of over three thousand miles,
without as much as once quenching our thirst -with a more
refreshing beverage than the impure and tepid water ob
tained from the rivers we navigated. It is a remarkable
phenomenon that the same district of country should give
rise to streams, some of whose waters are white and
thick with sediment, while others are black, yet admirably
clear. The explanation must, doubtless, be sought in the
different nature of the soil over which the rivers flow, and
the varied tinctorial qualities of the vegetation alono- the
courses of the streams.
Two hours of steady rowing from Asaiba brought us
to Rio Claro, also a black-water river, where the banks
again disappeared, and the stream lost itself in the La-
guna de los Indios, a section of country partially covered
with forest, in places so intricate as to make navigation

NAVIGATING SUBMERGED F0EEST3. 109
exceedingly difficult and laborious. No longer guided in
this trackless maze by a regular channel, we frequently
would be brought to a stand by an impenetrable thicket,
and obliged to retrace our course, and try another, with,
perhaps, like success. Our bongo was forced through
dense bushes, oftentimes grounding, then floating high
among the trees, which barely lifted their spreading sum
mits above the waters. Our toilsome windings at length
terminated in our becoming entangled in the labyrinth of
forests and waters, from which there seemed no escape.
The thought of going supperless was by no means a com
forting reflection, but that was easily to be foregone, com
pared with the torture of sancudos, the busy hum of whose
marshalling legions was already heard. Night came on
apace, and settled round us black and cheerless ; when, un
able to proceed in the thick darkness, we moored to a tree
which rose above the black waters, to wait for the morn
ing. Weary and hopeless, we threw ourselves in the bot
tom of the boat and tried to sleep ; but myriads of insects
swarmed the air, -with which we contested until conquered,
and then in despair yielded ourselves their prey. The
long-wished-for daylight brought us reUef, when, casting
loose from our aerial anchorage, we resumed our efforts to
extricate ourselves from the flooded forests. Pressed by
hunger, we devised means of relief by taking the larger of
our two iron kettles, and, -with the simple modification of
putting the fire inside instead of out, the fuel "for which
was dry branches procured from trees, we soon had coffee
made in our reserved pot, and this, with meat roasted
on spits, furnished us a meal to which our appetites were
prepared to do ample justice.
Again pushing on, rowing where the depth of water
and absence of forest allowed, elsewhere poUng or hauUng
ourselves along by the branches of the trees, we slowly
made way through the gloomy labyrinth, from which the

110 AFLOAT UPON THE LLANOS.
compass furnished the only clew by which to extricate our
selves. After many hours of wearisome efforts, we emerged
into the Arauca ; only known to be a river by the forest
walls which formed a narrow channel. So floating do-wn,
we came, by 2 p. m., where dry land appeared, and here we
disembarked for food and rest After a couple of hom-s
spent upon the slightly-elevated bank, we continued our
voyage, shut in by interminable lines of verdure which
bordered the stream. Just before night shrouded all,
a sudden turn in the river revealed to our view in the
distance the hills of Guiana, beyond the Orinoco. After
our long voyage over an inundated country, where not
the slightest elevation breaks the sameness of the land
scape, it was with a feeling of relief, mingled with inex
pressible joy, at the near prospect of a more propitious
land, that we beheld the range of hills, which stretched in
distinct outline agaijjst the rich background of the even
ing sky.
It was after dark when we floated into the -^'aters of
the Orinoco, and moored our canoe upon the western shore
of that majestic river, whose floods, gatheredby the count
less tributaries which drain the vast regions of Venezuela,
together with much of Colombia, bringing do^wn the melt
ing snows from the Andean summits, rolled onward in one
mighty, impetuous torrent until lost in the Atlantic. No
river in the world possesses such grand and sublime scenery,
varied by such picturesque mountains, plains, rapids, lovely
islands, forests, and life in so many thousand and attrac
tive forms. This was the stream upon which we were now
to sail, and these the scenes that were to deUght us. Upon
the sandy bank of the river we threw ourselves for the
night, with the mountain glimpses calling to our dreams
the hills of our own distant home.

CHAPTER IX.

UEBANA.

The Orinoco. — Preparations for entering Urbana. — Eeception at tho Town.
— A Fiesta-Day. — Our Quarters. — Smoking out Bats, — Description of
Town. — Ascent of the Cerro, — Picturesque View. — Harper's Weekly.
— Insects and Birds, — Annoying Delays, — Arrangements for Voyage
up the Orinoco.
Eaelt on the morning of the 28th of October, we
crossed the Orinoco — which, at this point, is a league in
breadth — to Urbana, located directly opposite the mouth
of the Arauca. The river had fallen to its medium height,
from the annual rise, which lifts the Orinoco, at Urbana,
from thirty to thirty-five feet above its lowest water-mark ;
a change of level much less than occurs higher up, where
the stream is forced through narro-w passes, as at the
Straits of Baraguan and the Great Cataracts. Landing
a short distance above the town, beneath the shelter of a
projecting promontory of granitic rocks, we proceeded to
make ourselves look as respectable as circumstances would
permit, before encountering civilization. A small wooden
trunk was hauled out from the bongo, and Celestino, our
patron, soon underwent a transformation that gave him a
decidedly picturesque appearance. His habiliment, the
usual dress suit of the Llanero, consisted of a pair of light
pantaloons extending to the knees, whence each leg was
prolonged into two points, reaching to the feet. Beneath

112 UEBANA, •
these flowing appendages were fastened separate pieces
of white linen, serving for extensions of the abbreviated
trousers. A blue-flannel camisa, ornamented with white
trimmings, was worn outside of his pantaloons in Ueu of a
coat. Two hats, the inner wool, the outer straw, consti
tuted his head-gear, supplemented at the other end by
white stockings and shining patent-leather shoes. Our
boatmen were less grotesquely but neatly attired, being
barefooted, and encumbered with only one hat each. We
confess that "Los del Norte," when "fixed" in their best,
did not loom up very high in their own estimation ; and,
we apprehend, did not cut very impressive figures in the
eyes of their natives. The probabilities that we should be
taken by the Urbanians as attendants of our crew were
rather mortifying. But what could we further do to im
prove our appearance ? Our soiled and rusty garments
had been whipped and our panamas washed ; our coarse
flannel shirts, -with collars of the same, were as clean as
muddy water would make them, and as smooth as they
could be stretched; neck-ties, which were reserved for
special occasions like the jsresent, had been dra'wn from
our overloaded pockets, and now graced our sunburnt
necks. A glance around upon the motley-arrayed group
told that all were ready, when vamos was given, and we
were off for the town.
Reaching Urbana, v/e were met upon the beach by the
alcalde of the village and other officials, with many of
the citizens, who received us -with the hearty welcome so
characteristic of the Spaniard, and which was extended
us wherever we went. We had arrived upon one of theu-
numerous fiesta-days, and the people were luxuriating in
the festiviwes of the occasion. A grand banquet was to
be given to all the celebrities of the town at the casa, or
house of the chief executive, and to this we accepted an
invitation. At 10 A. m., the designated hour, we made

A FIESTA-DAY.

113

our way to the alcalde's dweUing, where, in his main
apartment, we found a cockfight in full blast as a prelude
to the dinner. One of the gamesters belonged to the chief
executive, who, -with much gusto, was personally attending
upon his feathered representative in the contest. This
affau- at length terminated, the bloody arena was cleared,
and the crowd for awhile dispersed. Assembling again at
the expiration of another hour, the guests, about thirty in
number, at the announcement of dinner, with a rush like
a pack of half-famished wolves, surrounded the festive
board. Had it been desirable to seat the guests, the table
would not have accommodated over a third of the number
present. Such inconveniences as chairs were therefore
dispensed with, excepting a couple which were provided
for Los Americanos. The dishes displayed were many in
number, but seemed, for the most part, to have originated
from one individual ofthe swine species. The head of the
victim was upon one platter, its ribs upon another, the legs
projected over a third, while the other portions, fried,
roasted, boiled, and hashed, had been served up for the
occasion. There were, furthermore, a single bowl of soup,
and another of boiled beans, of which only those could
partake who were favored ¦with plates and spoons ; while
pUes of broken cassava lay scattered in every direction.
Coffee was not wanting, neither claret, nor aguardiente,
of which latter many were tempted to imbibe too freely.
•Every man was his own waiter ; filUng his fist with a
great piece of meat, and then falling back from the table
to give another the opportunity to secure a portion. Toasts
and vivas followed each other in quick alternation from
the feasting guests. Finally, ¦with vivas for " Los Estados
Unidos," and " Los Americanos del Norte," they betook
themselves to the street, where a procession was formed,
at the head of which was borne, by two girls dressed in
white, the Venezuelan flag and our own star-spangled

114 UEBANA.
banner side by side. Music and dancing in the evening
closed the celebration and festivities of the day.
We now turned toward our temporary home, the best
that the place afforded, an abandoned pulperia, and, upon
opening the doors, were greeted by a swarm of hideous,
screeching bats, as they made their exit from the buUding.
A war of extermination was at once inaugurated ; but we
soon discovered our enemy had the better of the game ; for,
when we made an attack -with poles, they clustered up be
neath the high palm-leaf roof, whose loose meshes seemed
to be fairly alive with the creatures, and whence they
poured out reenforcements unlimited. Smoking was then
resorted to, which, we inferred, would bring them to a
realizing sense of the undesirableness of their presence ;
but they very quietly secreted themselves in the thatched
roof during the operation, while we were compelled to
seek refuge without. Failing to expel the creatures, we
in despair composed ourselves m our hammocks. We
cannot say that the bats proved themselves such undesir
able night-companions as our imaginations had pictured
them to be, for the oppressive heat of our ill-ventilated
room was greatly mitigated by their -winging their way
to and fro, fanning the air to a constant breeze.
Urbana, which has a Spanish population of about five
hundred, comprises a church, three pulperias, and about
sixty dwellings, which are mostly on two streets paraUel
to the river. A portion of the houses are made of mud ; ¦
while the others are constructed wholly of palm-leaves that
are twenty-five to thirty feet in length, a dozen making an
ordinary load for a yoke of oxen to drag in fi-om the plains
where they are procured. For convenience in building,
the houses are made the length of a leaf, which is fastened
on -n'ith lianas, or vines. Aside from a small j)atch of
maize, we saw nothing growing in this district of country
for the support of the people. They depend for subsist-

SITUATION OF URBANA. 115
ence upon the fish and turtles of the river, cassava and
maize from the Apure and other sections, and upon their
herds, which find abundant pasturage on the savannas
among the broken sierras of Guiana. Other necessaries
of life are brought up from Angostura ; with which town
there is carried on a considerable trade in hides, large
numbers of which are exported annually from Urbana.
The village of Urbana is beautifully situated at the
foot of semi-isolated hUls, whose granitic rocks, under the
effects of decomposition, exhibit upon their summit gro
tesque columns which appear Uke the remains of ancient
ruins. We were desirous of visiting these curious forma
tions of Nature ; so one morning, accompanied by some
natives, we made the ascent of the cerros. Their sides
are exceedingly precipitous, and covered with matted
woods, which were difficult to penetrate. At length, after
an hour's hard climbing, we stood upon the rocky crest,
and clambered up to the cross that had been planted by
devotees of the Catholic faith, upon the top of the natural
tower which rises high above the forest. From here we
had a most lovely view of savannas, mountains, and the
broad expanse of the Orinoco, which here spreads out like
a vast lake. The little village of Urbana lay quietly nes
tled at our feet, and beyond, across the broad river, a
boundless forest of eternal green, while in other directions
rose range after range of the broken sierras of Guiana.
We saw few landscapes in the tropics so varied and ex
tended. These hills seemed to be a perfect den for casca-.
bels, or rattlesnakes. Of no other section, visited in our
equatorial wanderings, could we more truthfully speak as
being a place " Where at each step the stranger fears to wake
The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake,"
Occasionally they found their way into the town. Seated

116 UEBANA,
one evening with some natives upon the ground in front
of a dwelling, the head of one of these serpents, which
had lain concealed in the grass, suddenly appeared in our
midst, causing a hasty dispersion of our group.
At this village we came across some stray books and
papers that had found their way uji from Angostura,
among which were several numbers of Marpefs 'Week
ly, and a copy of " Smith's Primary Geography" in Span
ish print, but with the same Ulustrations that adorn the
English edition of that work. It is doubtful if ever, in
our school-boy days, we thumbed over with greater inter
est this little volume for the sake of its pictures, than we
leaved it for a similar purpose upon this occasion. Any
thing that awakens in the memory of the traveller in dis
tant lands thoughts of home and country, seems to possess
a peculiar charm, which, under other circumstances, might
be passed unnoticed.
Our rambles .about Urbana were productive of much
that was new and interesting. Among the many beau
tiful insects were the blue Morphos, those giants of the
insect-world, which were abundant in the forest of the
sierras. There was also a species of white butterfly, with
black-tipped wings, the same as we have observed in the
tropical clime of southern Florida. But what especiaUy
interested us were the wonders of the formicarias, or ant
family, many species of which abound here ; some build
ing in hollow trees, others suspending their nests from the
branches, while still others construct their homes imder-
ground. A large black species, an inch or more in length,
is the most numerous, as it is also the most voracious and
destructive to vegetation, stripping the foliage from trees
with a rapidity truly astonishing. Diverging in every
direction through the forest and across the savannas, are
their broad and well-beaten trails, resembling sheep-paths.
We have often, in our rambles, followed for long distances

ANTS.

117

deserted ant-roads, as affording an easy path to travel.
Branches of these caminos reales, or royal roads, may be
traced to favorite species of trees, along whose trunks wUl
be found two dark lines of these industrious workers ; in
one they are ascending, in the other descending, each ant
in the latter Une hid beneath a piece of leaf, which he car
ries vertically, as he hurries onward to his home. It is
evident that they perform their journey, not by sight, but
by the sense of smell ; for we have often broken their
lines by sweeping a-n^ay the surface of the earth, when
they would become confused, until in their wild ramblings
the connection was discovered, when they would rush on
again in heavy phalanx. When they wish to cross a
stream, they seek a fallen trunk which spans the same, or
ascend a tree whose boughs form a union with others upon
the opposite side. To test their instinct we have removed
their bridges, taking the precaution to place ourselves out
of harm's way. Satisfying themselves that their connec
tion with the opposite bank was severed, they sought a
crossing above or below, which being foimd, they made
good their lines, and business went on as before. Some
Indian tribes esteem certain species of these large ants as
excellent food. Humboldt informs us that he saw, upon
the headwaters of the Orinoco and Rio Negro, natives
who subsisted during a portion of the year mainly upon
these insects, which, being dried and smoked, were mixed
as seasoning into a sort of paste. At Quito, in Ecuador,
we have ourselves observed the Indians to eat a species of
coleoptera collected in quantities and roasted. With less
preparation, the natives pick certain hemipterous insects
from one another's heads and eat them -with pecuUar satis
faction. So infested are some districts -with ants, and so great
their destmctive procUvities, that it is almost unpossible
to secure the growth of tender and succulent plants, which

113 UEBANA,
are almost sure to be attacked by them. Upon the Ori
noco and Rio Negro we frequently observed the hanging
gardens of the natives, who, when they wish to cultivate
a few vegetables, suspend from the trees, or lift upon
poles, a canoe filled with earth, and in this plant their
seed 'with some hopes of a harvest. Should some formic
forager discover this aerial garden, immediately it is filled
'with voracious insects, and, before the planter is aware of
their presence, his little crop has vanished. We found
them exceedingly annoying, depredating upon every thing
within their reach — and nothing can be placed beyond it.
Especially did they seem to delight in, feasting upon the
insects collected by us with so great labor. We mention
these facts to show some of the obstacles that entomolo
gists in the tropics have to contend -with, and how the
very superabundance of insects renders it extremely diffi
cult to secure any for the purposes of science. We see,
furthermore, what a strife for existence man, in these tropi
cal regions, has to maintain. The soil is unsurpassed in
fertiUty, yet devastating insects prevent him from re
ceiving therefrom his food, while others inflict upon him
venomous stings, or, burro'wing themselves in his flesh,
cause festering limbs. Even the elements combine in
making life one unwearied struggle for prolongation.
Driven by swelling rivers which submerge the land, he
is forced, like the wild beasts, to seek refuge in the moim-
tains and on the island-like elevations, or even compelled
to fix his habitation in the trees, there to subsist upon the
products of his arboreal home.
The ornithology of this district is not remarkable;
troupials, parrots, and a species allied to om- common
meadow-lark, being among the most noticeable birds.
The first-mentioned suspends its nests in colonies from
branches of the trees ; many stately monarchs on the
skirts of the forest, or upon the open savannas — for

THE GOLD-EEGIONS, II9
these birds seem to love the sunshine — hang with hun
dreds of their long, sack-like homes, with flocks of the
brilliant-colored inhabitants hovering about them, present
ing a beautiful sight. Among the many peculiar sounds
of animated Nature we recognized the familiar one " Whip-
poor-will," recalUng pleasant memories of our northern
home. Although Urbana is situated three hundred miles from
the . gold-regions of Venezuelian Guiana — the veritable
" El Dorado," whose fabulous wealth is just being made
known to the world — still the Urbanians were suffering
from the " gold-fever," so prevalent throughout Venezuela.
The story of the " Gilded King," which inflamed such a
spirit of -wild adventure among the conquistadores, had,
indeed, a more substantial foundation than we may have
thought — it was not wholly chimerical, but had such a
basis in facts that we can easily excuse the introduction
of the gold-bespangled monarch. The gold-regions em
brace the broken mountain-ranges lying about one hundred
miles south of the Orinoco, in the eastem portion of Ven
ezuela, between the rivers Essequibo and Caroni. The
auriferous quartz is found not only in immense veins, but
also in ledges or mountain-like masses, all of a richness
which is said to far exceed the gold-bearing quartz of
California. These gold-districts are easily accessible from
the coast, being situated inland scarcely two hundred
miles. Thus far the greater portion of the gold obtained
from these rich fields has been the result of unsystema
tized labor, but already several companies are formed in
England, Germany, Prance, and the States, for the open
ing of mines and the scientific working of the auriferous
quartz. The limits of our own work will not enable us to
speak at length upon the wonderful developments that
have been made in this incredibly rich yet (untU recently)
comparatively unexplored field; but we must refer our

120 UEBANA.
readers to the excellent work, " Adventures in South and
Central America,*' by Don Ramon Paez, where ¦will be
found, in the chapter " The Land of El Dorado," a full
account of these regions.
The temperature of Urbana, although hot, is not so
oppressive as that which we experienced elsewhere. This
lower temperature is due to the trade-winds, which are
constant from east to west, but are felt ¦with diminishing
force as you ascend the Orinoco, until reaching the Great
Cataracts, beyond which no breeze is ever felt. The ¦winds
generally rise at 8 or 9 a. m., continuing until about 4 p. m.,
and then are felt again from 10 p. m. till three o'clock in
the morning. These uniform winds are of great service
to vessels navigating the Lower Orinoco. The largest
craft that are employed on the river above Angostura
are lanchas, which consist of a canoe for the hull, its ca
pacity being increased by planks raised upon the sides,
"with a carroza covering about half its length. To ascend
the rapids of the river, smaller boats are necessary.
Our stay at Urbana had been protracted much beyond
our first intentions, and we now "^'atched the earliest oppor
tunity to continue our journey. The padre and gobiemo
of San Fernando de Atabapo, a to'wn above the cataracts
of the Orinoco, were daily expected upon their return from
Angostura, whither they had gone, and we determined to
accompany them up the river. One day the village was
thrown into a state of the greatest excitement by a sail
heaving in sight, which was supposed to be the governor's.
The artillery of Urbana, which consisted of a single brass
piece that a boy could easily have carried, was dragged
from the arsenal — some back kitchen — and salute after
salute pealed forth over the water to greet the approach
ing vessel, the enthusiasm of the crowd increasing as it
neared the land. At length, amid deafening vivas, the

ARRANGEMENTS FOR VOYAGE. 121
boat pushed to its anchorage, when, much to the chagrin
of the inhabitants and our disappointment, it proved
only a loaded lancha bound for the Rio Meta. But, what
was stUl more depressing to ns was, the intelligence that
neither the governor nor the padre would leave Angos
tura for several weeks yet to come. Urbana seemed des
tined to be the highest point upon the Orinoco we were
likely to reach. Neither craft nor crew could be secured,
nor a single guide be found to accompany us who -was ac
quainted -with the passage of the Great Cataracts.
While thus despairingly discussing the probabUities of
" going through," our Apure boatmen, who had returned
to Asaiba, again appeared at Urbana with a buco, or
small lancha, which seemed just the thing for ascending
the rapids. Negotiations were at once opened with Celes
tino, the patron, which resulted in his agreeing to take us
to San Fernando de Atabapo, for the sum of eighty pesos ;
he furnishing the crew and supplies for the voyage. A
guide alone was all that was lacking. At this juncture of
affairs an Indian fortunately wandered into the town, who,
with the bribe of a cotton camisa, which we thought his
advent into civilization rendered desirable, was induced to
accompany us in the capacity of pilot to San Fernando, a
distance which it would require nearly a month to accom
plish. Our craft measured thirty feet in length, with its
greatest breadth about six, and was furnished with a sail
that could be hoisted when the wind was favorable. In
front ofthe carroza, which covered about eight feet of the
middle of the boat, and was sufficiently high to admit of
a sitting posture, were seats for the rowers, while the
patron, as steersman, occupied the stern. A stock of pro
visions sufficient for the long voyage, excepting meat, of
which we were able to obtain but little, was put aboard.
The wanting substantial we expected to be able to sup-

122 UEBANA,
ply ourselves with by the way. In addition to our staples,
cassava, coffee, papelon, and salt, we added a few bunches
of green plantains, with several armfuls of sugar-canes to
eat when our appetites inclined. Thus ¦we were prepared
for our voyage up the Orinoco.

CHAPTER X.

UP THE OEINOCO.

Farewell to Urbana, — Strait of Baraguan..— Mirage. — Harvest of Turtles'
Eggs, — Camp of Indians, — Santa Barbara. — Indian Simplicity and Be
liefs. — Features of the River. — Castillo de los Espanoles. — A Legend. —
Piedra del Tigre, — Music in the Rocks. — Randal de Cai-iben,- Rio
Meta. — A Wild Scene, — Bats and Other Annoyances,
Upon the afternoon of the 9th of November, with sails
set and flag floating, we took our departure from Urbana,
amid the vivas of the inhabitants who lined the shore,
and were borne swiftly along by the breeze which swept
up the river. To avoid the strong current and catch the
wind, we hugged the southern bank, drawing up at sun
set to a, playa, or sandy beach, some two hundred yards in
breadth, left dry by the falling of the waters. Here we
spread our blankets and stretched our mosquiteros over
us, by fastening them to the palancas of the boat, stuck
in the ground ; but this precaution was imnecessary, for
all insectile pests are swept by the -winds from these barren
sand-stretches. Wild ducks and geese stalked the playa,
casting suspicious glances toward our encampment; but
they were shy, and we were unsuccessful in our attempts
to secure some for breakfast.
It was scarcely Ught. when we were again breasting
the strong current, propelled by the paddles of our swarthy
trio. At 9 A. M., the wind rising, the sail was hoisted,
and the men rested upon their benches. About noon we

124 UP THE ORINOCO.
entered the Strait of Baraguan, where the Orinoco nar
rows to a mile in width, wdth a current so strong that we
were compeUed to land and pull up by towage. Having
made the passage, we halted at the base of the picturesque
granitic hills of Baraguan, which stretch along the eastem
shore, and give their name to the strait. The huge masses
of rocks, often disposed in columnar form, seemed as if
piled up by art ; but only the agencies of Nature have
here been at work. By the process of decomposition, al
ways rapid in the tropics, the softer parts of the rock are
removed, while the harder portions, worn away more slow
ly, are left standing above the general rock-surface. Upon
the Upper Orinoco we frequently observed stones, nicely
poised one upon another, forming taU pUlars Uke some
ancient ruins, which have been produced in the manner
above described. On the mountain-slope at Atures we
saw a stone wall — ^the remains of a dike — over three feet
in height and two in thickness, which, left bare by the
crumbling and removal of the softer rock by which it was
enclosed, appeared as if erected by the hand of man.
Upon the western side of the river, opposite the moun
tains of Baraguan, was a large playa, upon which was an
Indian encampment, to which we crossed. It consisted
of a dozen umbrella-shaped huts, about four feet high, con
structed from poles stuck in the sand in a circle soma
eight feet in diameter, with the upper ends brought to
gether, and the whole covered with a few pahn-leaves,
scarcely sufficient to ward off the sun, and offering no pro
tection against the rains ; but, as there -was nothing to get
wet, aside from iron pots and calabashes, -with their o-wn
naked persons, we imagined that a shower on this hot
shore could be considered no special inconvenience. Un
like the Guaicas and Guainarcs of the Upper Orinoco, who
are remarkable for their diminutive size, these Ottomac
Indians were large, their skin of a bro-nmish-red color, their

DIRT-EATEES. I25
hair thick and long, hanging over«their shoulders, but cut
square off just above the eyebrows, giving them a very
grotesque appearance. They were unpainted, and without
clothing or ornaments of any kind ; excepting some of the
women, who had their lower Ups punctured, and sticks two
inches long inserted. Upon inquiry for the gobierno of
the settlement, who was a Spaniard, we were directed to
one of the contracted habitations, where we found that
dignitary seated upon the ground, outside of his apology
for a dwelling. His wife was squatted inside, a sufficient
reason why he must remain excluded. T-wo or three royal
offspring lay rolling naked in the sand. Where the camp
were to get their next meal was difficult to tell, as they
possessed not a morsel of food among them. Perhaps they
were intending to make a very satisfactory one of the clay
of the river banks ; for these Ottomacs were the veritable
dirt-eating Indians mentioned by Humboldt. There is
always a great scarcity of food in the wet season, and
during that period these Indians eat incredible quanti
ties of clay, taking at the same time only an extremely
small amount of other aliment. Humboldt has spoken at
some length of this strange habit of dirt-eating, so com
mon among many of the natives of tropical regions. He
failed to find, upon analysis, any nutritious elements in the
clay, and refers its tendency to appease the sensation of
hunger to the secretion of the gastric fluids of the stomach,
excited to powerful action by the presence of the earthy
substance. The same authority also refers the remarkable
preservation of health and strength during protracted
periods, when earth constitutes the principal aliment taken
by the Indians, to habit, prolonged through successive
generations. " Man can accustom himself to an extraor
dinary abstinence, and find it but little painful, if he em
ploy tonic or stimulating substances (various drugs, small
quantities of opium, betel, tobacco, or leaves of coca) ; or

126 UP THE OEINOCO.
if he supply his stomaoh, from time to time, "with earthy
insipid substances, that are not in themselves fit for nutri
tion." * This habit of eating dirt is prevalent among the
Indians of Brazil, and we learned from foreign residents
upon the Maranon that their children evinced a morbid
appetite for earths, which they sought to gratify by swal
lowing large lumps of innutritions clay.
Departing from this Indian encampment, we poled to
the upper end of the playa, which was a league in length,
and one-third that in width, and there encamped. The
heat of the sun was most intense, and the plain was undu
lating, like the surface of disturbed water, from the effects
of mirage, and every object about us appeared to be ele
vated and dancing in the air. This singular atmospheric
phenomenon, occasioned b,y the refraction and reflection
of light in traversing the strata of rarefied air next the sur
face of the earth, is common upon the arid playas of the
Orinoco. We sometimes saw the long line of barren coast
apparently in greater agitation than the river upon which
we were sailing ; but, approaching, instead of floating into
rougher water, we would land upon a sandy, burning
shore. We roamed the playa in search of turtles' eggs, but
found only a few, which were those of the terecai ; it unfor
tunately not being the season for the great harvest of eggs,
which occurs in the months of AprU and May. From the
natives, however, we gathered many interesting facts re
specting the "egg -harvest," and by them were made
acquainted -with the habits of this reptile, which is found
in such prodigious numbers upon the Orinoco, between
the cataracts and the mouth of the Apure. To Paez and
other travellers on the Orinoco, we are also indebted for
much valuable information concerning this animal. The
great turtle, called by the Spaniards tortuga, and by the
* " Humboldt's Travels," vol, iL, p. 502,

HARVEST OF TUETLES' EGGS,, 12'7
Indians arrau, the largest and by far the most abundant
of the tortoises inhabiting the Orinoco, is about two feet
in length, and weighs fifty pounds. It commences to
deposit its eggs in the month *f February, when the river
has fallen to its lowest level, leaving dry the playas, or
sand-bars. Nights are selected for the laying, when the
tortuga crawls upon the beach, excavatiag with its hind-
flappers a hole in which from sixty to one hundred and
fifty eggs are deposited. It then refills the pit with sand,
and smooths it over so as to obliterate all traces of its
work. The parent then retires to the water, leaving her
eggs to the fostering influence of the sun. During the
height of the laying season, the gathering of turtles is so
great, says Father Gumilla, " that the multitudes already
out prevent the passage of still greater numbers, which,
with heads above water, are waiting a chance to pass on."
Scarcely has the laying commenced before the Indians
begin their preparations for gathering the eggs. To de
termine the limits of a stratum of eggs, or to discover
scattering nests in the playas, the Indian uses a pole, on
thrusting which into the sand, a sudden yielding denotes
the presence of the sought-for treasure. Where the tortugas
have frequented the most, the beach is one vast layer of
eggs ; for the turtles, in their zeal to make their deposits,
are regardless of the rights of others, one destroying the
nest of another, and scattering its contents in every direc
tion, until the sand becomes literally filled with eggs to
the average depth, according to Humboldt, of three feet.
The eggs are spherical, about one and a quarter inch in
diameter, with a calcareous shell, that is soft and coria
ceous. The yolk floats in oU instead of in albumen, which
gives the eggs their value. The manner of procurmg the
oil is to place the eggs in canoes or large wooden troughs,
where they are broken by sticks, or trodden by chUdren,
when water is added, and the whole left exposed to the
r

128 HP THE OEINOCO.
sun. The oleaginous portion, rising to the surface, is
removed and clarified by boiling, forming the article so
well known in the country as manteca de tortuga, or turtle-
butter. Angostura is the pfincipal market for this animal
product, and traders are upon the ground at the season of
the harvest, to purchase from the Indians the results of
their labors.
It is not easy to conceive how great is the destruction
of these useful creatures by their various enemies. Even
thousands of those that hatch are destroyed before reach
ing their natural element, falling a prey to vultures and
other carnivorous birds, jaguars, and the Indians, who es
teem them a delicious morsel, eating them shell and aU.
Nor are they free from capture when they have entered
the water ; for caimans and ravenous fishes there await
them ; still, they perpetuate their race in such untold
thousands, that, as Father Gumilla has observed, " it would
be as difficult to count the sands of the extensive banks
of the Orinoco as to compute the immense number of
turtles which it harbors on its borders, and in the depths
of its current. . . . Notwithstanding the size of the Ori
noco River, it is the opinion of the experts of that coun
try that, were it not for this extraordinary consumption
of turtles and their eggs, the increase of these animals in
the river would be such as to render it unnavigable ; for
boats would find it impossible to make way through the
immense number of turtles which would appear, were all
these eggs to be hatched." What is also an astonishing
fact in connection with these reptiles is, the number of
years' eggs each contains. There are the eggs fully foi-med
for deposit, then those still smaller for the next year, and
so on, diminishing in size for each succeeding issue ; and,
says the pious Father GumiUa, " God only knows for how
many years these creatures are endowed with similar re
ceptacles of life in embryo."

CAMP OF INDIANS. 129
Besides the tortuga, there are several other species of
tortoises inhabiting the Orinoco and its tributaries, the
largest of which is the terecai, weighing about twenty-five
pounds. Gobesonas, galapagos, and the little chipiries,
scarcely five pounds in weight, also abound, especially
in the upper waters of the Orinoco and Rio Negro. The
large tortuga is not found above the cataracts of those
rivers ; not that these would be barriers to its ascent, but
probably because of the absence of extensive beaches, the
favorite and essential haunts for the deposit of its eggs.
Turtles are, ecclesiastically, classed the same as fishes,
being cold-blooded animals, and their flesh is allowed to
be eaten during Lent and on other fast-days of the Church.
The second night from Urbana, spent upon a playa, we
experienced a severe storm, which nearly caused us the
loss of our buco. It shipped the water to such a degree,
that we were obliged to land every thing from the boat.
The tempest subsiding, about three o'clock in the morning,
we reembarked, that we might have the benefit of the fa
vorable breeze then blowing. As dayUght came, the wind
died away, and the men took to their paddles. During
the forenoon we passed upon our right Sinaruco, a stream
of considerable dimensions ; and the outlets of Suapure
and Caripo to our left. To avoid the strong current we
kept close in to shore, which afforded us frequent views of
groups of audacious monkeys that sat among the branches
of the trees, seemingly indifferent to our passing.
It was late in the evening when we stopped at a playa
upon which was a camp of Indians simUar to those before
mentioned. The women were huddled in the small, Hot
tentot huts, with their heads and feet protrading from all
sides, while their naked lords lay stretched in the sand
without. Their language, like that of Indian tribes gener
aUy, we found to be exceedingly simple and curious, con
sisting more in signs than verbal utterances. We observed

130 UP THE OEINOCO.
that in conversation, even among themselves, they desig
nated the time of day at which any event would occur by
simply pointing toward the heavens ; to denote noon, the
finger was directed toward the zenith ; to express three
o'clock in the afternoon, the hand would be incUned tow
ard the west at an angle of forty-five degrees. The dis
persion of gathered clouds threatening rain was indicated
by a broad sweep of the hand from the mouth outward,
the movement being accompanied with an expulsion of
the breath. From this was to be understood that a -wind
would arise, the force of which was to be inferred from
the strength of the breath ; and the direction in which the
clouds would be driven was shown by the movement of
the arm.
In the morning, some time before day, we departed
from these chUdren of the forest, envying them not their
simple and untoilsome life. Toward noon we came upon
another small company of the same tribe, who were roast
ing whole, with simply the entraUs removed, two large
chigUires, or water-hogs, the stench of which kept us at a
respectful distance. The Indians were armed -with bows
and arrows, and the faces of their naked persons were
painted red with the coloring matter extracted from the
crushed seeds of annotto (Bixa orellana). Bargaining
with them for tortugas, which were to be brought us at
Santa Barbara, where we proposed remaining a few days,
we hastened from the spot, glad to escape from the odor
of their savory chig'uh-es.
At 1 p. M. we reached the above-mentioned to'wn,
where, upon the beach, we partook of our first meal for
,the day ; regaling ourselves on monkey-steak, which we
had secured with our guns by the way. This Spanish
pueblo, or town, was a collection of a dozen houses scat
tered along the river for three-quarters of a mUe. A strip
of land, fifty yards in breadth, had been cleared from the

SANTA BARBARA. 131
virgin forest, and was waving with banana * trees — the
most useful plant to the inhabitants of the tropics. Like
the cereals of northern latitudes, it has accompanied man
at every step of his progress in these southern climes, and
every cottage rests beneath the shade of its banana-trees.
It is a herbaceous plant, growing almost spontaneously,
with a stem that attains a height of ten to twelve feet,
crowned by a cluster of silky, shining leaves, six to eight
feet long, and a foot in width. These are extremely deli
cate and easily torn transversely by the winds, so as to
hang in narrow strips from the midvein, resembling pinnate
leaves. The plant, which comes to maturity in about
twelve months, produces a single cluster of fruit, when
the stem dies and new shoots start from its base, several
of which are allowed to grow, so that banana-trees are
generally in clusters, upon some of which fruit may always
be found. No other plant yields so great an amount of
nutriment from the same extent of soU, producing, accord
ing to the estimate- of Humboldt, twenty times as much
as corn, forty-four that of potatoes, and one hundred and
thirty-three times more than wheat.
At Santa Barbara we received our first introduction to
gnats (simulium), which were afterward such a source of
annoyance as we ascended the cataracts of the Orinoco.
They are known to the Spaniards by the name of mosqui-
tos (diminutive files), whUe our insects of that name
(culex) are called by them sancudos, signifying long-
legged. The sting of these minute insects is painful, and
leaves a dark spot, caused by the coagulation of blood be
neath the skin where the proboscis pierces. These marks
are exceedingly lasting : we retained traces of them for
* We use the word banana popularly as a generic term includmg
several species : the plantain (Mnsa pdradisiasa), dominico (M. regia)^
cambure (Hf. rosacea), are the species most generally cultivated.

132 UP THE OEINOCO.
months after we had left the regions infested by these in
sects. On our second day at this pueblo, the Indians we had
met down the river, accompanied by many others of their
tribe, arrived, bringing with them the promised turtles.
Their chief, who was among the number, and who was
distinguished by no outer adornment, observing us for a
while very intently, as we were engaged in removing, for
preservation, the beautiful plumage of a guacamaya, inno
cently asked for the long red tail, which seemed particu
larly to have taken his fancy. Without doubt it would
have afforded him no little gratification to have possessed
it for his pow-wow embellishments ; but, as its removal
was incompatible with the object for which we desired the
specimen, we felt compelled to refuse the request, as harsh
as it might seem to the old chief, who turned away Uke
a disappointed child denied some cherished plaything.
There is something impressive in the infantine expression
and primitive simplicity of the wUd Indians of the Ori
noco and Amazons. Their lives are passed ¦with no higher
aim than simply maintaining an existence. Many seem to
entertain no system of belief that can be caUed religion,
and appear to have no knowledge of a Supreme Being.
Most of the tribes are tractable, peaceful, and quietly
disposed ; and, where civUization, so called, has made no
encroachments among them, instances of gross vice and
immorality are unfrequent.
After three days' delay at Santa Barbara, we resumed
our voyage. Some two hundred pounds of jerked beef,
which we had the good fortune to secure, had been added
to our supplies, and lay piled in a heap in the bow of the
boat, covered with banana-leaves to keep off the sun, and
the feet of the natives, who were continually treading
over it. Our crew had also been strengthened by two
additional men for ascending the cataracts. To our left

FEATURES OF THE RIVER. 133
were broken ranges, which in places approached the river,
and in others receded to a distance ; they were not wholly
lost sight of until we passed the upper rapids of May
pures ; the western shore was bordered with forest no
where of any great depth, beyond which spread out the
grass-covered plains of the Rio Meta. Occasionally we
landed to procure some beautiful bird we saw through the
branches of the trees, or to secure game for our commis
sary department ; but it was not good hunting-ground, at
least, so we thought, after having crossed the plains of
Apure swarming 'with animated life. Evidences of deer
were to be seen in the piles of horns around every hut.
They were abundant on the savannas, but lack of time
prevented our making any extended expedition for them.
We missed our noisy friends, the guacamayas ; and the
shrill cries of herons, flamingoes, and other water-birds,
were seldom heard. Pheasants and wild-turkeys were
more abundant, but difficult to obtain, from their extreme
shyness. The height of the trees rendered our shot-guns
useless, and only with the rifle-ball could an object be
reached in the top of the forest giants.
At mid-day we landed at a deserted hut, where a sugar
cane grove had fallen beneath the tread of ravenous chi-
giiires and prowling jaguars ; but from banana-trees, which
had been undisturbed, we gathered some fine bunches of
fruit to carry with us. Opposite us, upon the eastern
shore of the river, rose a granitic mountain, whose naked
declivity descended to the water's edge. Upon its bald
top a fort was erected by the Jesuits, and occupied by
them as a military post ; during the war for independence
it served as a fortress to the Spaniards, who were com
pelled to evacuate it, after a siege of four days, by the
Venezuelian forces. The place, although nothing is now
seen but the rock, still bears the name, " El CastUlo de los
Espanoles " — the castle of the Spaniards. In the face of

134 UP THE ORINOCO,
an adjoining cliff, near its summit, we had pointed out to
us the entrance of a dark cavern ; its height up the rocky
wall renders it inaccessible, but, according to a legend,
as given us by our patron, a passage to it was discovered
by a padre, who was accustomed to resort thither. He
died without divulging the mystic way to the gloomy re
cess ; and it is said that his spirit now frequents the place.
The forbidding aspect of the jagged cliff and its wUd sur
roundings make it appear as though it might, indeed, be
a favorite haunt for wandering spirits.
Not far from here a violent tempest struck our vessel,
and produced a heavy sea that nearly shipwrecked us be
fore we could gain the shore, which being reached, we
hastily unloaded our stores, for our buco seemed destined
to be dashed to pieces, the high bank preventing us from
drawing it upon land. The peaks of the granitic hills
were wrapped in one vivid sheet of flame, whUe peals of
thunder, of a nature well calculated to disturb the rest of
the good padre, rattled along the cliffs.
Upon the following day we passed without difficulty
the Maudal de Marimara. Here upon the east bank rises
a solid mountain of granite, called Piedra de Marimara,
its river-front abrupt and without a trace of soU. Sepa
rated from this huge rock by a beautiful little inlet upon
the south is another granitic pile, which bears the name
oi.La Fiedra del Zamuro, the rock of the zamm-o.* Upon
its walls we could distinctly trace the high-water marks,
showing that the river had fallen sixteen feet, about half
its usual rise. Upon the opposite side of the river was
the immense rock, Piedra del Tigre, which, sloping up
graduaUy from the stream, presented a favorable place for
refection and rest, and accordingly we drew to shore.
There is a singular phenomenon connected -with these rocks
of Piedra del Tigre, which is also peculiar to others upon
* Cathartes atratus.

THE EAUDAL DE CARIBEN. 135
the Middle Orinoco. By putting our ears close to their
surface we Avere able to detect low, musical tones, which
our guides observed were more audible in the early morn
ing. The granite is split with deep crevices, that seem to
give emission to these mysterious sounds. Humboldt says
that he never himself heard these musical tones, but, re
lying upon trustworthy information as to the reality of
this phenomenon, gives the following explanation of the
cause : " It may easily be conceived that the difference of
temperature between the subterranean and external air
attains its maximum about sunrise, or at that moment
which is at the same time farthest from the period of the
maximum, of the heat of the preceding day. May not
these organ-like sounds, which are heard when a person
lays his ear in contact with the stone, be the effect of a
current of air that issues out through the crevices ? Does
not the impulse of the air, against the elastic spangles of
mica that intercept the crevices, contribute to modify the
sounds ? "
By noon of the 18th we reached the Faudal de Cariben,
where we encountered cataracts that could not be passed
with the paddle. The river was blocked with great masses
of granite, while huge bowlders strewed the shore, some
resting far back from the stream, and often nicely poised
one upon another. Traces of ancient water-levels high
up on the walls, which in -places enclose the river, point
unmistakably to the time when the Orinoco was a mighty
stream, rolling its volume across the continent Uke an
ocean, but now reduced to the comparatively Uttle rivulet
that courses through the bed of the former channel. In
those periods of greater floods these bowlder-like masses,
now at a distance from the river, were separated by de
stroying forces from the rock upon which they rest, and
by the erosive agency of the waters were worn and left
in their present isolated and often strange positions. In

136 UP THE OEINOCO.
the stream and along its borders, which are submerged
during the annual swelUng of the river, we often saw what
might be termed the progressive formation of these gra
nitic bowlders. The upper stratum, several feet in thick
ness, of a flat rock, would be separated into huge frag
ments by decomposition. Frequently the blocks would
be arranged in a row, longitudinally Avith the stream, with
the upper one, from being most exposed to the action of
the current, worn into a perfect bowlder ; the next in order
exhibiting not so much the effects of the erosive element ;
the third still less ; and so on diminishing until, before the
last was reached, no change was perceptible, the rock
being simply divided into sections. Should all but the
first be removed, it would scarcely be conceived that the
isolated bowlder was hewn from the rock upon which it
stands, but rather that it had been deposited there by
some external force.
We ascended the JRaudal de Cariben by toAving ; the
current making with violence through the narrow channels
formed by the rocks that filled the bed of the stream. A
mile or more to the west of the river, across a treeless and
sunburnt plain, is the Uttle vUlage which bears the name
of the rapids. At 5 p. m. we were in fi-ont of the mouth
of the Rio Meta, next to the Guaviare, the largest tribu
tary of the Orinoco. Canoes and lanchas ascend this
stream, penetrating as far as the base of the Andes, and
by an overland journey of about twenty leagues the trav
eller reaches Bogota, the capital of Colombia. Its banks
are infested with the Guahibos, a warlike race of savages,
who are a constant source of terror to the voyager on
those waters. They also inhabit the west bank of the
Orinoco as far as the Great Cataracts. UnUke most of
the Indian tribes of the Orinoco, who are peaceably in
clined, and follow the tillage of the soil, cultivating the
banana, yuca, and sugar-cane, the Guahibos lead a no-

A WILD SCENE. I37
madic life, deriving their means of subsistence from the
chase and depredatory excursions upon the neighboring
agricultural tribes.
Opposite the mouth of the Meta, and near the eastern
shore of the Orinoco, rises a large rock called Piedra de la
Paciencia, the stone of patience, from the difficulty boats
experience in making its passage. The height and steep
ness of the cliffs, upon either side of the channel that must
be made, prevent towing, and render it necessary to stem
the powerful current with the paddles. We found occasion
to call into requisition an unusual amount of " paciencia,"
but, after a severe puU, being swept back each moment
almost as much as we ascended, we at length moored
safely above. We spent the night upon the rocks, spread
ing our blankets beneath us, which relieved in a degree
their hardness, but not their heat, Avhich they receive
during the day and retain with apparently little loss
through a large portion of the night.
Three hours before daylight we embarked, in order to
pass the Baudal de Atabajdheioxe night. The Avind rising
by 9 A, M., we were enabled to use our sail for the first time
in many days. At noon we halted upon the right bank, where
a narrow belt of woodland bordered the river. The coun
try to the eastward presented a rocky and desert waste,
filled with jungles — fit haunts for jaguars and venomous
serpents. A Avilder scene we found nowhere in our wan
derings ; and Avith no Uttle apprehension we roamed over
the place in search of the few plants which clung to the
jagged cliffs, or sprang up in the deep morasses. We
observed Avith interest the melocactus, which found a
geuial home upon these burning rocks. It is of a globular
shape, from eight to twelve inches in diameter, and covered
with thorns that make it dangerous to disturb. The juice
contained Avithin its prickly shell tempts the thirsty animal
of the sun-parched plains, which, it is said, carefully pene-

138 UP THE ORINOCO.
trates with his hoof to the hidden beverage. Thus Nature
in times of rain stores up within this humble plant the
nourishment it needs for itself during the long period of
drought, and which also serves to quench the thirst of the
herds that roam the savannas.
A short distance farther on and we came to the Faudal
de Atabaja, Avhere half an hour was consumed in the pas-.
sage, when we turned into a small creek to seek shelter
from the heat of the mid-day sun. Our boat had scarcely
touched the bank before the ominous cry of " El tigre !
el tigre ! " rose fi-om our natives, who were rushing fi-an-
tically about. With our rifles we hastened upon the shore,
but looked in vain for some huge jaguar among the tree-
tops, whither our attention was directed. The creature
responsible for the disturbance proved to be a A-enomous
serpent whose long, slim body was as spotted as the animal
Avhose name it bore.
The night of the 19th was passed upon a rock, where
bats took the place of sancudos in disturbing our slumbers.
These filled the crevices and lay in scores beneath every
bowlder. As soon as darkness invited them from their
hiding-places, they poured out in hundreds, and made night
hideous with their screeching. We had scarcely composed
ourselves, before a cry from our Indian guide told that he
had been made a victim by one of these creatures, which
had taken a large mouthful at the expense of one of the
poor fellow's toes. Presently another, and soon a third
one of our natives received simUar visits, when Are deemed
it advisable to protect our ovm pedal appendages, which
were exposed, as we had other use for them than feeding
ugly bats. The nose seems also to offer them particular
attractions ; but Ave, being especially opposed to molesta
tion at that point, rolled ourselves in our blankets cap-a-
pie ; but the heat of the atmosphere, and the still hotter
rocks beneath, led us to abandon the experiment, and Aery

BATS AND OTHER ANNOYANCES. 139
resignedly to offer ourselves as their prey. But, Avhile
exhibiting a strong predUection for our natives, they left
us unmolested. These carnivorous and sanguineous crea
tures seem to show a great partiality for some persons,
paying them their nightly respects, while others are en
tirely free from their molestations. With the great vam
pire-bat, which has been so often referred to by travellers
in the tropics as such a formidable enemy, we never had
any personal experience. They, however, abound, to the
terror of both man and beast. Differing from some of the
smaller species we have mentioned, they are contented
with simply taking the blood of their victim, which they
extract in such profuse quantities that it is hazardous to
sleep in the open air where one is exposed to their attacks.
The danger to be apprehended from these Avinged demons
is the greater, because they inflict so little pain in their
operations that the person or animal is not aroused from
slumber. Making a minute puncture, they drain by suc
tion the blood from their victim, while lulling him into
sounder repose with the noiseless fanning of their wings.
It is a disputed point as to the manner in which the bat
makes the incision; whether with its tongue, with the
sharp nail of its thumb, or by boring Avith one of its long
canine teeth by flying around in a circle. The wound,
although exceedingly small, bleeds profusely; and the
person, upon awakening, will find himself covered with
the flowing blood.
Above the Raudal de Atabaja, the river, Avhich below
is contracted and encumbered with rocks, again broadens,
and is fiUed with sandy shoals and picturesque islands.
The wooded banks, the lowest we had seen on the Ori
noco, were often overflowed, leaving dry immense playas,
which, when connected with the shore, obliged us to go far
out into the stream. Not unfrequently our buco ran
aground, when our natives, springing into the water, would

J 40 UP THE OEINOCO.
push US off into deeper sailing ; often they towed the boat
along for miles over the shallow places, as a relief to con
stant roAving. The heat was most intense, and the mos-
quitos increased as we neared the Great Cataracts. We
tried covering our hands and faces with gloves and veils,
but the heat was insupportable. ExpeUing, by means of
smoke, the torments from beneath our carroza, and spread
ing a blanket over the entrance, we could enjoy a few
minutes' repose ; but the vertical rays of the sun upon our
palm-leaf thatch would soon drive us to the external air.
The little caribe fish that filled the river, and huge caimans
which showed their scaly backs everywhere above the sur
face of the water, prohibited bathing, that would have af
forded so refreshing a relief.
The night of the 20th was passed upon an island playa
in the middle of the river, whither we carried wood in our
boat for a fire. Roving bands of Guahibos had been seen
during the day along the western shore, and jaguars were
also unpleasantly abundant on this portion of the Orinoco.
Having no particular desire to encounter either, we se
lected a camping-ground where sm-prise by them would
be more difficult than upon the main-land. The foUoAving
night we passed upon a rock, and early upon the morning
of the 22d of November we arrived at the far-famed cata
racts of the Atures.

CHAPTER XI.
THE GEEAT CATARACTS OE THE OEINOCO.
Grandeur of the Eapids of Atures. — Passing the Cataracts. — Village of
Atures. — Weapons of the Natives. — Suffering from Insects. — Cave of
Ataruipe. — Beautiful Palms. — Arrive at the Eaudales de Maypures. —
Magnificent View of the Cataracts. — Thanksgiving Dinner, — ^Village
of Maypures. — Nature's Chronometer, — ^Farewell to the Orinoco, — At
San Fernando de Atabapo, •
The Orinoco, eight hundred mUes from the sea, forcing
its way through a granitic range of the Guiana Mountains,
foi-ms the cataracts of Atures. To obtain a view of these
rapids, let the traveller place himself on the summit of
overlooking hills which rise just to the east of the river,
and he has before him a scene that is stupendously grand.
Other landscapes may be viewed and forgotten ; but the
majestic appearance of the rapids of the Atures leaves an
impression that wUl never fade from the memory. For
more than a league the river is broken by rapids and filled
with huge granitic masses, piled on one another in endless
confusion ; while islands, clothed with crested palm-trees
and beautiful vegetation, rise above the whitened waters.
The river is divided by these enchanting islets into numer
ous channels, through which the waters, lashed into foam,
tumble with frightful violence, breaking Avith deafening
roar upon the rocks. At the season of the greatest rise of
the Orinoco, when these stones and crags which fill tho

142 THE GEEAT CATARACTS OF THE OEINOCO.
bed of the channel are submerged by the floods that pour
their impetuous volumes' down this incUned plain, the as
pect of the river must be grand in the extreme. The
mountains upon the west of the cataracts are rugged and
barren, and closely follow the river ; whUe in the distance
the lofty peak of Uniana, three thousand feet in height,
rises like a huge column in the midst of the plain. East
of the Atures the hills are wooded, and bound a plain a
league or more in breadth, strewed Avith great bowlders,
sometimes heaped in huge, irregular masses, Avith here and
there a verdant ravine and clump of trees that meet the
eye as it wanders over this wild and desolate tract. Upon
the isolated peak, from whose crest we take our view of
the rapids, are the remains of a dike, referred to in a previ
ous chapter, which runs like a wall up the steep slope of
the sierra. The summit "of the hill is also mounted by
huge bowlders of granite, twenty to thirty feet in diameter,
some of them so nicely poised and resting upon each other
two and three in height, that it seems as though they
might easily be pushed down into the river-channel.
In the afternoon we started with our natives for the
village of Atures, to procure a prctctico to aid us in passing
the cataracts. A league over the rocky and burning plain
brought us to the river Cataniapo, which we -were unable
to cross ; but our Indian guide, SAvimming the stream, suc
ceeded in reaching the settlement, returning soon with the
promise of assistance on the morrow. Retracing our steps,
we observed fresh tracks of tigers, which are exce.edingly
numerous in the wild districts about the Cataracts of the
Orinoco. That we Avere unarmed, with the prospect of
darkness overtaking us before we could reach camp, was
by no means a comforting reflection. In the morning, foot
prints of tigers, within a fcAV yards of where we had slept
in our hammocks under the trees, gave evidence of their
visits during the night, our fires having been suffered to
expire.

VILLAGE OF ATURES. I43
Our practico, or pilot, arriving from the village by
sunrise, we commenced the passage of the rapids. The
river, a third of a mile in breadth, emerged from the
first line of obstructions in two main channels, along each
of which rolled a tremendous flood over the stony blocks
that filled their beds, while between these were numerous
small openings in the islands and rocks, through which
the waters poured in whirling eddies and dangerous whirl
pools. Lanchas, or large canoes, descending in time of
high water — for at no other season can they descend the
rapids — choose the large channel upon the west ; but no
craft can ever ascend against the powerful current and
heavy breakers of this river-torrent. Plunging into the
swift stream, we pulled over to one of the small channels,
and there upon an island landed our stores, which were
carried over a short portage to where, if successful, we
would again embark. Now, entering the rapids, we clam
ber over the huge granitic bowlders, springing from rock
to rock, pulling our boat along through the whirling
waters : sometimes a projecting point must be reached ;
when, with rope in hand, a native plunges into the river,
but often the bold adventurer is borne down by the im
petuous torrent. At length, after several unsuccessful
attempts, the crag is reached ; he is joined by others, and
the boat is hauled up past the obstruction. But now
another obstacle, perhaps more difficult and dangerous
still, presents itself. Some climb the rocks, whUe others
swim the breakers, and thus from crag to crag, with push
ing, pulling, and poling, we slowly make our way up the
cataracts. At length a cliff lifts its bold front directly in
our pathway, beneath whose stony masses the roaring
waters flow in subterranean caverns. Over the granitic
pile we with difficulty drag our canoe, when the first line
of barriers is overcome, and Ave float into smoother water.
Reloading our craft, we pull up, through verdant and pic-

144 THE GEEAT CATAEACTS OF THE OEINOCO.
turesque islands, to the second rocky dike that spans the
river. Our baggage and supplies are to be carried from
here over a portage of a league to the upper Umit of the
rapids, and the boat to be dragged up through the rocky
obstructions. The village of Atures, whither we now directed our
course, is two miles distant upon the plain, or one below
the upper terminus of the portage. The heat of the at
mosphere, augmented by reflection from the stony soil
and granitic masses, was excessive in the extreme. Upon
arriving at the viUage, our Indian guide, who had carried
our papelon in a banana-leaf basket upon his head, pre
sented a unique appearance. His head had perforated the
mass, which, under the influence of the hot sxm, flowed in
streams down his naked person. The viUage consisted of
six inhabited mud huts, a little chapel, now used as a dor
mitory for cows, and two abandoned, dUapidated hovels,
in one of which we established ourselves for the time we
might remain at the Atures.
Here we saw, for the first time, that curious weapon,
the cerbatana, or blow-gun, in the use of which the natives
of the country are so skilful. It is made of a light, hol
low reed, which grows in abundpiuce in the forests of the
Upper Orinoco. As these are slender, two, and sometimes
three, of different sizes are taken, so that they can be in
serted one into the other.* These are then wound with
smooth, black, shining bark, which gives it a tastefiil ap
pearance. At one end is fitted a mouth-piece of horn, and
a short distance from it a projection of the same for a
sight. The whole, when completed, is ten or twelve feet
long. The arrow, generally made from the wood of a palm,
* The blow-gun of the Upper Amazonian Indians is constructed of
two pieces of hard wood, generally chonta-palm, each of which is hol
lowed out, then the two united, wound with bark, and coated with a
resinous substance.

WEAPONS OF THE NATIVES. 1.15
is the size of a common straw, and a foot in length. One
end is nicely wound with the Ught cotton of the ceiba-tree
so as to fill exactly the tube of the gun, and the other ex-
trenuty is pointed and dipped in curare, a poison distilled
from a vine of the forest. So powerful is this venomous
juice that it wUl kill a bird almost instantly, and the large
jaguar succumbs to its effects in a space of ten or fifteen
minutes. The flechetes, as the Uttle missiles are called,
can be propelled, Avith a single puff of breath, through the
cerbatana one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet Avith
the greatest accuracy. The quiver is twelve or fourteen
inches long, beautifully woven from fibres of the palni-
leaf, the lower part coated with a resinaceous substance
obtained from a forest-tree.
Equipped with his cerbatana and quiver of poisoned
arrows, the Indian goes in quest of game. "SUent as
midnight," quaintly writes Waterton, "he steals under
them, and so cautiously does he tread the ground, that the
fallen leaves rustle not beneath his feet. His ears are
open to the least sound, while his eye, keen as that of the
lynx, is employed in finding out the game in the thickest
shade. Often he imitates their cry, and decoys them from
tree to tree, till they are Avithin range of his tube. Then
taking a poison arrow from his quiver, he puts it in the
blow-pipe, and collects his breath for the fatal puff. SUent
and SAvift the arrow flies, and seldom faUs to pierce the
object at which it is sent." The flesh of game thus shot
is in no wise injured for eating, as the poison can be taken
internaUy with impunity. In its preparation the Indians
test its strength by tasting ; but care must be observed
that the skin of the lips or mouth be not fractured so as
to bring the substance into contact with the blood. Salt
is an antidote for the poison, and, if timely employed,
will neutralize its deleterious effects. When the Indian
desires to capture a monkey or bird alive, he uses a flechete

146- THE GEEAT CATAEACTS OF THE ORINOCO.
anointed with diluted curare, and instantly upon the fall
of his prize fills its mouth with salt, which soon restores
the animal unharmed.
The manufacture of curare is known to but compara
tively few, the Indians of the Cassiquiare and Upper Rio
Negro being the principal producers for all the neigh
boring regions. The virulent principle it contains is ex
tracted from the bark of bejuco de mavacure (Strychnos
toxifera), a vine abundant in the forests of the districts
where the curare is made. When prepared, it has the
color and consistence of tar, and is sold in smaU cala
bashes at an exorbitant price. It is an interesting fact
that this concentrated juice of' the mavacure, which is so
deadly when introduced into the circulation, has been
found to be a specific for that other powerful poison,
strychnine, whose pernicious effects are so difficult to
counteract. The other weapons of the natives, besides the cerba
tana, are bows and arrows, in the construction of which
they exhibit no little taste and ingenuity. The bow is
generally from five to six feet long, and made from a hard,
black, elastic wood, with a string woven from the fibres of
the palm-leaf. The arrows, from five to seven feet in
length, consist of a light reed, in one extremity of which
is inserted a head about a foot long, made of hard wood,
with the point dipped in curare ; the other extremity is
winged with feathers arranged spirally so as to produce a
rotary motion, thus exhibiting an acquaintance Avith prin
ciples applied among civilized nations. The question is
naturally suggested. Is this contrivance, for giving direct
ness and effectiveness to missiles, an invention of civUiza
tion, or must it be recorded as an achievement of barba
rism, developed and improved by modern genius ? The
arroAV employed for the capture of turtles, during the
season when they do not appear upon the playas, differs

SUFFERINGS FROM INSECTS. 147
from the above-described in having a barbed iron point
fitting loosely in the shaft, to which it is attached by a
long cord. The smooth, hard shell of the turtle, if struck
obUquely, would ward off the arrow ; the hunter, there
fore, calculates his distance, and, with an unerring aim,
sends his missile into the air, when, describing a parabola,
it descends with force and pierces the back of the victim.
Immediately the animal dives, carrying with him the iron
point fastened, in his coat of mail, unreeving the string
that connects it to the shaft, which floats upon the water,
and enables the Indian to regain the cord and secure the
turtle. We have often been astonished in observing at
how great a distance the keen eye of the Indian will de
tect an object, and the precision with which he will send
an arrow, apparently draAvn at a venture.
Nowhere as at Atures had we suffered so severely
from insects, and yet we were told that the climax would
not be reached untU we arrived at the Maypures. At
early daAvn the mosquitos made their appearance, nor did
they disappear till the shades of evening invited forth the
larger insects, the sancudos, which fortunately are not so
abundant in this season at Atures as they are during
the rainy months, when they swarm in clouds. The mos
quitos seem to be constant throughout the year, filling
the atmosphere in numbers sufficient to dim the vision.
We could not breathe or speak, without taking in these
noxious insects ; they gathered in our eyes, and pierced
every exposed part of our persons. Humboldt, in speak
ing of these districts, says : " The lower strata of air,
from the surface of the ground to the height of fifteen or
tAventy feet, are absolutely filled with venomous insects.
If, in an obscure spot, for instance in the grottoes of the
cataracts formed by superincumbent blocks of granite, you
direct your eyes toward the opening enlightened by the
Bun, you see clouds of mosquitos more or less thick. At

148 THE GREAT CATAEACTS OF THE OEINOCO.
the mission of San Borja, the suffering from mosquitos is
greater than at Carichana ; but in the Raudales, at Atures,
and, above all, at Maypures, this suffering may be said to
attain its maximum. I doubt whether there be a country
upon earth where man is exposed to more cruel torments
in the rainy season."
On our second evening at the village of Atures, we
walked to the river to see how our boat advanced up the
cataracts. Nine men had been employed in- the work, and
had succeeded in bringing it through the rapids to where
it became necessary to drag it some distance overland,
by putting it upon rollers, as at this point obstructions
completely filled the eastern channel of the river — ^the one
we were ascending. The rocks exhibited those pecuUar
erosions, called " pot-holes," twenty or more feet in depth,
and from three to five feet in diameter ; whUe at then-
bottom were small stones and quartz-gravel, which, given
a revolving motion by the action of the water, had slowly
drilled themselves through the solid rock. The primitive
rock of the Great Cataracts is a coarse-grained granite,
often containing hornblende ; yet it does not constitute
true syenite. We observed traces of black coating upon
the stones wherever they are washed by the water, such
as excited the interest of Humboldt ; yet they did not
exhibit that glistening, metallic appearance which that
traveller mentions as giving such a singular aspect to this
wild river-scenery.
North of the village of Atures, and nearly two leagues
distant, is a settlement of a few houses, called Pueblo
Viejo, the old town, which, like the one upon the line of
portage, was at one time quite a flourishing village ; but
the plague of insects, with the insalubrity of the cUmate in
these misty and heated districts, caused its depopulation,
and it has fallen nearly into decay. It is surprising that
any persons should so persistently remain ; but the attach-

CAVE OF ATARUIPE. I49
ment Avhich inhabitants of frozen regions entertain for
their homes, amid inhospitable snows, seems to possess
these people of the burning, pestilential plains of the Ori
noco, fi-aught with so many causes of annoyances and
death. On the morning of the 26th of November, after over
three days spent in making the passage of the cataracts of
Atures, we renewed our voyage, leaving behind one of
our natives, sick with the calentura, so prevalent in the
malarious districts of the Great Cataracts. The Orinoco,
at this point where it enters the Maudales, is two-thirds
of a mile in width, or tAvice that where it issues from the
rapids below. Of the several channels into which the
stream divides, the western is the largest, and, as we have
remarked, the one through which vessels pass in making
the descent of the falls. The other channels are, for the
most part, beds of granitic rocks, which are covered only
during the annual swelling of the river. Black bands and
erosions upon the stones indicated that the waters had
already fallen twenty feet below their highest level. To
our left, at a short distance from the river, were the moun
tains which contain the cave of Ataruipe, the sepulchre
of the destroyed nation of the Atures. We regretted
that we were unable to visit this cemetery of a departed
race, which Humboldt saw and describes as a place of so
great interest. That traveller counted nearly six hundred
skeletons Avithin the cave, all well preserved, each being
placed in a basket wrought of palm-leaves. " A tradition
circulates among the Guahibos, that the warlike Atures,
pursued by the Caribs, escaped to the rocks that rise in
the middle of the Great Cataracts ; and there that nation,
heretofore so numerous, became gradually extinct, as well
as its language. The last families of the Atures still ex
isted in 1767, in the time of the missionary GiU. At the
period of our voyage an old parrot was shown at May-

150 THE GREAT CATARACTS OF THE ORINOCO.
pures, of which the inhabitants said, and the fact is worthy
of observation, that ' they did not understand what it said,
because it spoke the language of the Atures.' " *
At noon we arrived at the Maudal de Garcita, whicli
we passed by towing. To the southeast, in the distance,
Ave beheld the truncated peak of Calitamini, nearly four
thousand feet high, towering far above the surrounding
hills. Its peculiar outline and lofty height attract from
afar the attention of the traveller on the Upper Orinoco.
The vegetation along the river displayed that luxuriance,
beauty of form, and freshness of color, peculiar to the rich
and humid regions of the tropics. The white trunks of
Yagrumos, or Cecropias (Cecropia peltata), the home of
the sloth, with their large palmate leaves, w^ere abundantly
intermingled with statelier trees, which towered up to a
height we had seen nowhere surpassed, while vines hung
in beautiful festoons from the borders of the forest. Palm-
trees were especially a striking feature in this tropical
landscape; the fan-leaved Mauritia, the lofty Cucurito,
and spiny-trunked Macanilla, rose in marked conspicuous-
ness amid the endless variety of arboreal forms. The
Jagua, the most majestic of palms, whose stately trunk
attains a height of seventy to eighty feet, especially in
vites the attention of the traveller. Its immense plume
like leaves, twenty-five to thirty feet in length, and nearly
vertical, with their extremities gently curving, form a
coronal of verdure of exceeding grandeur. Of the many
and varied forms of vegetation we beheld under the tropics,
none impressed us more with its beauty and gracefulness
than the Jagua-palm. The Jagua of the Orinoco must
not be confounded with the palma - Tagua of other
parts of Venezuela, the vernacular name of which is the
Corozo Colorado, from which the inhabitants obtain their
sujjply of palm-oil, in the same manner as the African
* " Humboldt's Tr.Avels," vol. ii., p, 484.

RAPIDS OF MAYPURES, ORINOCO.

PIAEOA INDIANS. 151
negroes obtain theirs from an allied species, viz., by boil
ing the fruit in water, and crushing it in a wooden mortar,
until the sarcocarp is separated from the seed, and the oil
floats on the surface of the liquid mass thus produced.
Discovering smoke curling upward from the trees of a
forest-island, we landed and found a large palm-hut, in
habited by several families of Piaroas, who were living in
a patriarchal community. Hearing us disembark, the
naked inmates came swarming out from their wretched
dwelUng. The women were unornamented ; but the men,
imitating Nature, who adorns the male in the gayest
robes, were decorated in a most fantastic manner. A neck
lace of tiger or crocodile teeth was worn around the neck,
Avith bands of the same on the wrists. Upon the head
was a Avreath, made by weaving in a circular band the
variegated plumage of the bright-colored macaw ; while
down the back hung a bunch of feathers, tails of animals,
beautiful humming-birds, and trinkets of various kinds.
We were to them objects of the greatest curiosity ; they
examining our persons, clothes, and things, Avith the ut
most deUght and childish admiration. Our watches es
pecially excited their attention ; but their utility, besides
subserving the purpose of ornamentation, they could not
comprehend. From these Indians we supplied ourselves
Avith a number of candelas, or torches, which consisted
of a strip of bark a yard long, rolled into a tube three
inches in diameter, filled with a resinous substance, which
in burning gives out more smoke than light. The natives
of the Orinoco often make use of phosphorescent insects
(pyrophorus noctilucus), as a substitute for artificial light.
A number of these natural lamps placed in a calabash, and
shaken when wanted for use, Avill emit light sufficient to
make visible all objects Avithin the hut.
Late in the afternoon of the 2'7th, gathering clouds
indicating a heavy storm, we hastened to a large rock and

152 THE GEEAT CATAEACTS OF THE OEINOCO.
made fast. Our natives, undressing, tucked their clothes
away in the boat under shelter, and then sat quietly down
upon the bank to await the coming rain, while we crept
beneath our carroza. Soon the heavens opened, and the
floods came. Darkness also coming before the tempest
was over, we were obliged to remain here during the night,
sleeping upon our arms from fear of jaguars and Guahibos.
Leaving our anchorage early in the morning, we soon
came to the Raudal de los Guahibos, which is a single
ledge of rocks stretching across the river. Our natives
plunged into the water, and, by SAvimming fi-om rock to
rock, they managed, after much difficulty and danger, to
pull the boat through the rapids. A league farther, and
upon a sudden tum in the river, we came directly in front
of the Raudales de Maypures. We gazed with emotions
of strange awe up the long vista of water, as, lashed into
foam, it came plunging doAvn over the rock-masses and
through palm-covered islands that studded the river. We
landed in a cove upon the west bank, at the lower termi
nus of the portage, near the confluence of the Orinoco and
Guahibo Rivers. Here we took our Thanksgiving-dinner.
Kindling a fire, we boiled some strips of tough beef and a
few remaining bananas, which,- together with cassava and
guarapo, constituted our meal. Pacing backward and for
ward along the hot beach, our feet burning fr-om contact
Avith the heated earth, Avith food in one hand, and the
other in rapid motion with a large leaf to disperse the
thick clouds of mosquitos, which darkened the air, we
succeeded in taking our dinner — we trust, with thankful
hearts. Skirting the rapids upon the Avest is a Ioav, granitic
ridge, partly wooded, from whose summit may be viewed
the great cataracts. We Avish that we could picture the
majestic scenery that we from those heights beheld. For
over a mUe the river is fiUed with great blocks of granite.

CASCADE OP MANIMI. I53
and islands Avith ledges of rocks stretching between them,
or reaching from shore to shore. Through the narrow
channels, over the huge bowlders, and long dikes, the wa
ters AvUdly plunged as if they would whirl the very rocks
from their foundations, and sweep them doAvn the rapids.
The islands and larger rocks were covered with alluvial
deposits, supporting a groAvth of beautiful palm-trees and
tropical vegetation, which rose in luxuriant masses of most
vivid green through the vapory clouds which hovered
over the Waters. The river at the foot of the cataracts is
contracted to less than five hundred yards in breadth,
opening a short distance below to twice that Avidth. There
are three grand dikes, or falls, which form the striking
features in the raudales of the Maypures. The most re
markable of these is the one terminating the cataracts.
Above this is the Cascade of Manimi, formed by the con
tinuation across the river of the granitic ridge upon the
west, before alluded to. The most southern, a mile above
the base of the raudales, is divided by a huge and nearly
naked rock some three hundred feet in height, which rises
like an immense tower out of the midst of the whitened
waters. Above this, the river gradually Avidens to two
miles in breadth, and for nearly a league is filled with
rocks and shoals, which render it difficult of navigation.
East of the cataracts is a chain of hUls, connected upon
the south Avith the lofty mountains of Cunavami, and the
truncated peak of CaUtamini. The Suniapo River, taking
its rise among these ranges, flows into the Orinoco just
above the lowest cascade of the rapids. Upon the west
are the hills of Manimi, Avith isolated cliffs, rocks, and
island-like formations, scattered over the partially-wooded
plain which stretches out to the horizon. Some distance
to the westward of where the Orinoco at present flows is
a vaUey, which indicates itself as having been the ancient
bed of an arm of that majestic river. The land between

154 THE GREAT CATARACTS OF THE OEINOCO.
it and the present channel also gives evidence of having
been ovei-flowed; so that the rocks and wooded peaks
which now rise in this dry tract were formerly islands in
the great current that anciently roUed its floods across the
continent. It was the opinion of Humboldt — and we see
nothing to mUitate against its probabiUty — ^that a canal
could be cut around the cataracts of Atures and Maypures,
and thus this great river rendered navigable a distance of
upward of twelve hundred miles, or nearly to its source
among the lofty mountains, to the east of its bifurca
tion. The perpendicular fall which the river makes in jts
descent of these rapids is not so great as might be sup
posed from the turbulent appearance of the waters ; and
the nature of the ground presents excellent facUities for
artificial channels around these obstructions to the fi-ee
navigation of the river. The entire fall of the Maypures
scarcely amounts to more than thirty feet, whUe that of
the Atures is still less.
At the upper terminus of the portage, which is a league
in length, we found three mud houses ; one 2X)ssessed by a
Spanish family, another by some Indians, and the third
abandoned. This was the A'illage of Maypures, once a
thriving mission-station, containing in the time of the
Jesuits about six hundred inhabitants, but now almost
deserted, its site overgrown Avith bushes and forest, with
here and there sad traces of past prosperity. As we have
before remarked in speaking of Atures, the insalubrity of
the climate about the Great Cataracts, together with the
intolerable plague of insects, has caused the depopulation
of these regions. Night here brings no relief from the
annoyances and pains of the day. There is no cooling
breeze, as at Atures, upon the approach of eA-ening, to as
suage the heat of a burning atmosphere ; for at Maypures
no wind is ever felt. Time has made no diminution in the
number of insects. At the commencement of the present

VILLAGE OF MAYPUEES. 155
century, it is said that the suffering occasioned by them
was so imendurable, that the inhabitants of the village
AA'cre accustomed to retire to sleep amid the rocks and
islands of the cataracts, as there the insects were less nu
merous. We now see the wretched natives, in order to
escape in a degree their torments, build a fire within their
huts and suspend their hammocks in the smoke. A few
coffee-shrubs and plantains are cultivated, while here and
there an orange or cocoa-nut tree is seen growing about
the deserted and decayed village ; but the chief subsistence
of the few inhabitants is the game of the forest, fish and
turtles of the river, together Avith yuca raised by the
neighboring Indian tribes. The cultivation of maize on
the Upper Orinoco is now entirely neglected; and the
herds of cattle, which at one time grazed upon the savan
nas, have disappeared.
We spent but one day at Maypures, and at noon of the
29th we again embarked, having been fortunate enough
to secure a large canoe above the cataracts, which spared
us the labor of dragging our own boat through the rapids,
and saved us a delay of two or three days. Paddling
down a Avinding ca'Ho but a few yards in width, that flows
through a majestic woodland, we soon emerged upon the
Orinoco, which, for more than a league, was divided into
two channels by a chain of islands in the middle of the
stream. The atmosphere we breathed seemed as if drawn
from a fumace. Not the slightest motion in the lower
strata of air was perceptible ; for, from the Great Cataracts
of the Orinoco to the celebrated Falls of the Rio Negro, a
perpetual cahn prevaUs. On the Lower Orinoco and Ama
zons, where the streams take the direction of the trade-
winds, which are from east to west, breezes are constant,
and the cUmate more salubrious than where the air is stag
nant through the absence of atmospheric currents, as upon
the Upper Orinoco and Rio Negro.

156 THE GREAT CATAEACTS OF THE ORINOCO.
In this humid climate, so destructive to whatever
moisture can affect, our watches became useless. But
what need of such contrivances when the hour of the day
can be determined by animated Ufe, which so thickly
swarms these districts ? Each species of insect alternately
comes and disappears at invariable hours. Between the
departing of some species, and the appearing of the one
which succeeds, there is a short intermission ; others over
lap each other. Each produces a peculiar sensation by
its sting, that cannot be mistaken, so that, even though
clouds obscure the sun, or darkness veil the night, one
may be assured how far upon its course the day or night
has gone. The seasons, too, in sections of this tropical
clime where no alternating periods of rains and drought
note their passage, but where vegetation is ever green,
and falling showers moisten the earth throughout the
year, can be known by the migration of birds, as, driven
by swelling rivers inundating the land, they seek other
sections where food may be found, returning at their ap
pointed time, when the subsiding of the waters invites them
back to their favorite haunts. Thus the Indian of these
equatorial regions reads from Nature the times and sea
sons : the opening flowers, the birds and insects, all tell
him of the fleeting hours and years.
Early on the second day from Maypures, we passed
the Maudal de Cameji ; farther on, and to our left, the
Sipapo River ; and a little later we arrived opposite the
mouth of Rio Vichada, next to the Guaviare and Meta,
the largest of the western tributaries of the Orinoco. The
following morning we passed on the west, first the Zema,
then the Mataveni — rivers which have aguas negras, or
black waters. Our progress was slow against the broad,
strong current of the river, although to avoid its force we
kept close to the banks, which rose abruptly, in places
twenty to thirty feet high. Along these cliffs w^e observed

AT SAN FERNANDO DE ATABAPO. 157
strata of red, yellow, and white clay ; the last equalling
in quality that from which porcelain-ware is manufactured
in our own country. They all doubtless belong to the
great ochraeeous formation, known as Tabatinga clay,
met with throughout the valleys of the Rio Negro and
Amazons. But few islands or rocks here obstructed the
river; and often, looking up the broad stream, marked
upon either side by a long forest-line, our eyes rested upon
a blank horizon — the meeting of the water and sky. On
the morning of the 3d of December, we passed a large
square rock standing in the river, called El Castillito, the
little castle. Here was also a raudal, through which we
hauled our canoe, and two hours after sunset, under the
light of a bright moon, we crossed the river for the last
time, and, bidding farewell to its waters, entered the
mouth of the Guaviare. Thus terminated our long and
tedious voyage up the Orinoco. Following up a short
distance the Guaviare to its confluence with the Atabapo,
we turned into the latter, and soon after landed at the
town of San Fernando.

CHAPTER XII.
ATAEAPO AND UPPEE EIO NEGEO.
Village of San Fernando, — Ship-huilding, — ^Voyage up the Atabapo. — ^Its
Peculiar Features, — An-ival at Javita. — Portage to Pimichin. — ^Down
the Pimichin, — Rio Negro. — ^Village of Moroa, — Scarcity of Food, —
Repairing a Yankee Cloci, — Arrangements for Voyage to the Ama
zons. — Leave Moroa. — San Carlos.' — ^Enter Brazil.
San Fbenando de Atabapo is one of the most de
lightfully-situated towns we met with in the interior. It
occupies a central position upon the great water-shed of
the Orinoco and Amazonian valleys, and lies at the junc
tion of three considerable rivers — the Guaviare, Atabapo,
and Orinoco. The town seems scarcely to have felt the
influence of Spanish and Portuguese civUization, marching
up the Orinoco and Amazons. It contains a population
of four or five hundred, chiefly Indians. The mandioca,
sugar-cane, cacao, and coffee, are cultivated in sufficient
quantities to meet the wants of the people. Cocoa-nut
palms, which have accompanied man in his migrations in
all lands, thrive here, notwithstanding their distant re
moval from the coast. Cotton grows spontaneously, as it
does throughout the mountainous regions of Guiana. This
plant is here a perennial, and attains a height of six to
eight feet. Pine-apples grow wild in the greatest abun
dance, and possess a richness of flavor often deficient in
cultivated varieties. Broken savannas roll out from the

SHIP-BUILDING. I59
town, but no cattle roam their grassy stretches. These
animals were introduced at San Fernando when the mis
sion was first estabUshed, but have long since disappeared.
Ship-building, in rather a primitive way, is quite largely
carried on at San Fernando, the forests affording the best
of timber for that purpose. Craft upward of a hundred
tons' burden are constructed Avith no other tools than the
saw, axe, and hammer. Only the hulls are completed, and
when the water is highest these are floated down the
Orinoco, or taken around by the Cassiquiare to the Ama
zons. As they cannot ascend the great cataracts of those
rivers, they do not return, but new ones are annually buUt
and run down during spring-tide. These hulls are loaded
with hammocks, mandioca, piassaba-rope made from the
fibres of that palm, and other products of this region.
In passing the cataracts of Maypures and Atures, and the-
great rapids of the Rio Negro, the cargo is removed and
carried around the obstructions by portage ; while only a
pilot remains aboard to run the vessel through the rapids
— a perilous feat to the adventurous navigator. Both the
vessel and its contents are sold, and the voyagers return
in small canoes. These craft, when fitted out with rig
ging, are used in the coasting-trade, and in navigating the
rivers of the lower country.
During our sojourn in San Fernando, we occupied a
residence temporarily vacated. Naked timbers stretched
across irom side to side, one of which, giving way one
day, came crashing down, striking the ground where, but
a moment before, one of our number had been seated.
Ants had eaten off the extremities where it rested upon
the mud walls, and caused its falling. One who has never
visited the tropics can form no conception of the devas
tation wrought by voracious insects. Houses are Uterally
consumed by them, and whole vUlages often rendered a
pitiable scene of desertion and ruin.

160 ATABAPO AND UpPEE EIO NEGEO.
Until our arrival at San Fernando, we were undecided
as to which of the two routes to the Rio Negro we should
take ; whether to ascend the Atabapo and Temi, and then
make the portage of three leagues to the cano Pimichin,
or to ascend the Orinoco and make the passage of the Cas
siquiare. The former was much shorter, with no serious
obstacles to overcome, and could, furthermore, be per
formed, at this favorable season of low water, in twelve
or fifteen days less than would be required to make the
other, which necessitated a journey against the current of
the Orinoco of nearly fifty leagues through a Avild, barren,
and uninhabited country. Reaching Esmeralda, near the
celebrated bifurcation of the Orinoco, the traveller descends
the Cassiquiare, traversmg a forest-region infested Avith
insects, which, we were told, were more " ferocious " than
¦ thosfe of the Great Cataracts. After navicratincr that
stream sixty leagues, and passing the many rapids that
obstruct its course, he emerges upon the black waters of
the Rio Negro. After our severe experiences upon the
Orinoco, we had no inclination to endure the still greater
annoyances attending a voyage upon the Cassiquiare, and
therefore determined to ascend the Atabapo.
We encountered no Uttle difficulty in procuring a boat
and crew by which to continue our journey. Again we
seemed doomed to delay, if not destined to be turned
back. Could we but make Javita, we felt that our con
nection with the Amazons was assured. Once more for
tune favored us. Senor Andres Lev61, a Spanish trader,
from Moroa, on the Rio Negro, arrived at San Fernando,
having come by the Cassiquiare, and for the sum of one
hundred and ten pesos agreed to take us to Barra, near
the confluence of the above-mentioned riA'er with the
Amazons. Our boat, or lancha, as it was called, was
similar in construction to the buco by which we ascended
the Orinoco, but was a much more commodious craft. It

VOYAGE UP THE ATABAPO. lei
was manned by a crew of four Indians, and provisioned
with oranges and manoca. The latter is a coarse, grated
flour, made from the yuca-root (Manihot utilissima), the
Portuguese substitute for the Venezuelian cassava.
Upon the 6th of December, we set sail up the Atabapo,
a stream one-half a mile in breadth, whose low, wooded
banks were submerged by the overflow of the river. Its
waters were of a brownish color, and yet so transparent that
objects could be seen at the depth of three and even four
fathoms. The temperature of these aguas negras is much
lower than that of the white waters of the Orinoco, and
afforded a more grateful beverage than the turbid element
we had been compelled to use for so long a time. We
were now no longer annoyed by the torment of insects,
for mosquitos and sancudos are seldom found on black-
water rivers. Neither do crocodiles haunt the limpid
stream of the Atabapo, and the splash of the falling igua
nas does not startle the voyager. The forest, too, seemed
hushed in silence ; the plaintive cry of monkeys was no
longer heard, and but few birds were seen. Not a leaf
rustled, for no breeze ever disturbs the quiet of these deep
solitudes — all was silent as the grave. The mountains
were also wanting, and our eyes scanned in vain the forest
horizon for the slightest elevation to relieve the same
ness of the landscape.
The first night upon the Atabapo we passed Avith our
boat anchored to a rock in the middle of the dark stream.
When some distance on our way the foUoAving morning,
we discovered that a little basket belonging to Senor
Level, containing several letters he was conveying to
individuals upon the Rio Negro, twenty dollars in gold,
and, what he seemed to regret most, his cigarettes, with
which he was intending to regale himself upon the jour
ney, had somehow been lost overboard where we had
spent the night. Comforting himself Avith the assurance

162 ATABAPO AND UPPEE RIO NEGRO.
that his treasures were safe in the bottom of the river, we
did not delay to recover them, he intending to secure them
upon his next voyage that way. We might here remark,
en passant, that our money, which was in coin, was often
left unguarded in our boat Avithout any apprehensions
being entertained for its safety. Honesty is a Adrtue char
acteristic of the Indian tribes Avith which we were thrown
in contact. We have seen them, Avhen actually suffering
from hunger, decline to molest food discovered in huts
temporarily vacated. These natives, with that confidence
in their race unknown among ciAdlized communities, leave
their homes unprotected, and go on distant excursions,
with the assurance that upon their return nothing AviU be
found missing ; nor are they ever disappointed, unless some
straggling bianco chances to Avander that way during then-
absence. At 10 A. M. we reached Camachina, an Indian pueblo
of some thirty houses, upon the left bank of the stream.
The inhabitants, like most of those in the tOAvns on the
Atabapo, were quite well dressed ; their general appear
ance indicated some degree of intelligence; and theu-
dwellings, which were comfortable abodes, presented some
regularity and neatness in their arrangement, as compared
with the wretched huts of the tribes on the banks of the
Orinoco. We bartered Avith them for a few chipuies, or
small turtles, and plantains — a cambric needle or a fish
hook being an equivalent for a turtle or a bunch of ba
nanas. Two more Indians were here obtained, who accom
panied us to assist in passing the rapids of the river. In
the afternoon we arrived at another smaU Indian settlement
upon the same bank, and late in the evening reached
Piedra del Tigre, a granitic rock upon the eastern shore,
where we spent the night.
The inundation of the banks of the Atabapo presents
no little inconvenience to the traA-eller ; for often, when

ITS PECULIAR FEATURES. 163
making the long stretches which separate the villages, he
can find a resting-place, or where to build a fire to prepare
his food, only upon some solitary rock rising above the
water. These spots are knoAvn to the Indians ; and, in their
voyages up and down the stream, they Avill not pass one
unless confident that they can reach another before they
have need of fire or rest. A striking feature of the river
is the fine, white sand which here and there lifts itself in
banks above the water. Its dazzling brightness is almost
blinding, and in the distance the long lines of coast present
the appearance of drifts of snow glistening in the sun.
Another marked peculiarity is the diminutive size of the
trees, which constitute the forests of the inundated banks
of the river. This is noticed the more in coming from the
rich lands of the Orinoco, where stately monarchs tower
up Avith such grand proportions.
On the afternoon of the Sth we were at the Raudal de
Gaur-tname, which, next to the Great Cataracts of the Ori
noco, seemed the most formidable we had encountered.
Our Indians, by entering the water and towing the boat,
succeeded, after much hard work, in placing it above the
rock-obstructions. All hands then enjoyed a bath, a lux
ury that crocodiles and caribes no longer rendered a haz
ardous experiment. Just before sunset we pulled up to
the east bank at Baltazar, a neat Indian pueblo of some
twenty houses. A single Spaniard, who was both the
temporal and spiritual adviser of these people, held abso
lute sway in his little realm. We were unable to barter
with the Indians, excepting as we did it through him, he
seeming to sustain a patriarchal relation to the whole vil
lage. We spent the night at this place, sleeping in the
open air upon a rock in front of the village, leaving before
daylight in the morning. Santa Cruz, upon the right bank,
a vUlage the size of the last, was reached by 3 p. m. We
obtained from the inhabitants some chipiries' eggs, which

164 ATABAPO AND UPPER EIO NEGEO.
are oblong in shape, with a hard, calcareous shell, contain
ing oil like those of the tortuga. We found this oleagi
nous portion extremely deUcious, although our Indians dis
carded it, eating only the yolk.
A short distance above Santa Cruz we left the Ataba
po, which turns to the east under the name of Atacavi, and
entered the mouth of the Temi, whose waters were also
inky black. Passing one night upon this river, the fol
lowing day we entered the Tuamini, a still narrower
stream, equally black ; and at 4 p. m. of the same day, the
10th of December, we landed at Javita, the terminus of
our journey up-stream. It was the turning-point in our
travels, for from here we were to float dovm the current
of the Rio Negro to the Amazons. Sixty-eight years be
fore, the iUustrious Humboldt penetrated these A'ery AvUds
by the Orinoco and Atabajjo, as far as the borders of Bra
zil, returning by the Cassiquiare. In 1851, the EngUsh
naturaUst Wallace, in his journey upon the Rio Negro,
ascended that river as far as this place, retracing his steps
as he had come. But no American traveUer had before
us penetrated to these remote regions ; we were the first
to unfurl the stars and stripes upon these upper waters of
the Orinoco.
The village of Javita has some thirty houses, with a
neat little church, and a great square which is kept scru
pulously clean. The inhabitants, about three hundred in
number, are all Indians, and speak the Baniwa language,
although many of them converse fluently in Spanish. All
were well clothed, the men wearing trousers and a camisa,
and the women gowns which hung loosely about their
persons. Some of the young girls w"ere exceedingly beau
tiful, and when attired in their best, Avith their black hair
neatly plaited, they presented a really attractive appear
ance. Many among them, not over twelve years of age,
were already mothers and owners of chubby, enterprising

POET AGE OF PIMICHIN. 165
babies. The people employ themselves in collecting the
fibrous bark of the Paissaba palm that grows abundantly
in the forest, which substance is extensively used for
manufacturing ropes and cables. Every thing which
crosses the isthmus of Javita is carried by them, and the
loads they are able to transport is truly astonishing. The
distance across is three leagues, and the round trip is made
in one day, the carriers often taking a burden each way.
In every Indian hamlet and viUage of these interior
districts there is a casa real, a house for the use of travel
lers, itinerant officials, and padres. This beneficent ar
rangement of these hospitable people furnishes shelter to
the stranger, which would often be difficult to secure in
their overcrowded huts. In such a place we were quartered
at Javita. Wishing to delay here but a short time, we
made arrangements to cross the portage to Pimichin on
the day following our arrival at the village. Our boat
was too heavy to take overland, as the Indians are accus
tomed to do with their canoes ; nor was it necessary for
us, as another could be secured upon the other side of the
isthmus. Early in the morning the carriers were at our
quarters, accompanied by a crowd of women and children,
who, from curiosity, gathered about the door. Every man
was paid before he started, each selecting such articles as
struck his fancy, from our stock of cloth, arrow-heads,
beads, and needles. The display of our wares attracting
those who stood about the entrance, the bolder ones
pushed themselves within, and the more timid slowly fol
lowed, until the room was literally packed, when, with
two or three upon each bundle, all diffidence seemed to
have been overcome. The lighter packages were arranged
so as to be carried upon the head, while the heavier ones
were slung upon poles and borne upon the shoulders of
two persons.
When the last of the Indian train was in motion, we

166 ATABAPO AND UPPEE EIO NEGEO,
foUoAved in the line of march, and, although unencumbered
with burdens and walking briskly, making the distance
of over three leagues in as many hours, all of the carriers,
excepting a couple who were detained by the giving way
of their load, reached Pimichin some time before us.
A short distance from the vUlage we entered the dense
forest, and were surprised to see the magnificent growth
of the trees as compared Avith the dwarfed vegetation upon
the submerged lands of the Temi and Atabapo. Grow
ing along the path was the beautiful Cucurito palm, the
Inaja of the Portuguese (Maximiliana regia), and hairy
stems of the Piassaba (Leopoldinia Piassaba) were inter
spersed throughout the forest. In these humid woods and
sombre shades, where scarcely a sunbeam ever penetrates,
but two species of fiowers were found,* excepting a fcAv
that had fallen from stately trees high above our heads ;
but our herbarium received many curious and interesting
ferns and mosses which carpeted the earth, and covered
the trunks and branches of the trees. We remember
seeing nowhere in such numbers the large, blue Morphos,
that gigantic butterfly which so attracts the attention of
travellers in the tropics. Other beautiful insects fluttered
plentifully about us, for it was now the dry season at Javi
ta, the time when they are the most abundant. The in
habitants of this district enjoy for three or four months
an unclouded sky and most delightful weather. This,
however, is not true lower doAvn on the Rio Negro, where
rains are constant throughout the year, so that often for
days and weeks at a time the heavens are obscured Avith
clouds, and falling vapors saturate the earth. We experi-
'* Voyria flavescens and V. nuda, little plants from four to sis inches
high, with yellow and white flowers. They are among the few repre
sentative species of the floral kingdom that grow beneath the dense forest
of the tropics. We found them upon the mountains of Valencia, and
also in the deep woods of the Rio Negro,

PIMCHIN, 167
enced great difficulty in those humid regions in taking ob
servations ; for frequently many days in succession the sun
could not be observed through the thick fogs and clouds
which hovered over the forests.
The road from Javita to Pimichin, which runs directly
through the forest, is only Avith much labor kept free from
vegetation, that would soon, in this fostering soil, blockade
the way. At least once a year, the entire population of
the villages near either terminus of the road turn out
671 masse, with axes, machetes, and brooms, and the path,
over twenty feet in Avidth along its entire length of three
leagues, is cleared from vegetation and all obstruction,
and the whole swept clean of leaves and rubbish. Logs,
hewn upon the upper surface and roughened so as to offer
a secure footing, are stretched across the marshes and
streams. A cross marks the half-way point between the
termini. As far as this, the inhabitants of Javita keep the
road repaired ; while the villages of the Upper Rio Negro
attend to the other half. No indication of life and enter
prise awakened in us such a feeling of surprise as this
truly royal road, cut through the virgin forest, and con
necting the civilization of the Orinoco with that of the
Rio Negro and Amazons. Some geographers have laid
down a mountain-range as running lengthwise of this
isthmus. On the contrary, this water-shed is low, Avith
slight elevations, scarcely noticeable as the ground is
walked over. In these marshy grounds and tangled thick
ets, we were told that venomous sei-pents were most abun
dant, and that the black tiger, an animal fiercer and bolder
than the spotted jaguar of the Orinoco, was not unfre
quently encountered.
By 11 A. M. we reached Pimichin, a hamlet of two
houses, besides the casa real, a dilapidated building.
Here we delayed only a short time, but, loading our cargo
into a boat the size of the one abandoned at Javita, in

168 ATABAPO AND UPPEE EIO NEGEO,
which we were to go as far as Moroa, we commenced
floating down the meandering Cano Pimichin which leads
to the Rio Negro. The breadth of this black-water rivulet
where we embarked is scarcely thirty yards, and a more
crooked stream it would be difficult to imagine, its Avind-
ings taking us to every point of the compass. The forest
bordering the river was, like those of the Atabapo and
Temi, inundated, and exhibited but few signs of animated
life. We passed two ra;pids in the descent of the stream,
at one of which we ran upon a rock, and for a moment
stuck fast, while the current, breaking against our fraU
bark, made it quiver like a reed from stem to stern. Five
hours from the time we embarked at the village of Pimi
chin, we arrived upon the Rio Negro, or Guainia, as the
river is called above Moroa. A long line of huge bowlders,
appearing like the central moraine of an ancient glacier,
stretched down the middle of the stream directly in front
of the mouth of the Cano Pimichin. The Rio Negro
(black river) has been rightly named, for it is inky black,
nor do the many white-water tributaries which it re
ceives, in its course of over twelve hundred mUes from its
source among the isolated group of hiUs in the plains to
the east of Javita, seem to affect perceptibly its peculiar
coloration. The water itself as it pours from the paddle
appears of a reddish tinge.
A short distance below the mouth of the Pimichin,
upon the left bank, is the village of Moroa, where we soon
landed and took possession of the casa real, while our
Indians dispersed through the place, and Senor Level
sought the domestic retirement of his own cottage. He
had never married, still his family was quite an extensive
one, consisting of a number of Indian women and girls,
together with several youngsters of various complexions
who called him padre. In this country of loose morals,
where social tics are little regarded, such scenes are not

VILLAGE OF MOROA. 169
unfrequent. Moroa has a population, which is mostly
Indian, of about three hundred. Scarcity of food upon
the Rio Negro is so great that the inhabitants often suffer
extremely for the want of subsistence. " But hunger never
comes to my house," said Senor Level, " for, in the season
Avhen tortoises appear upon the beaches, I provide myself
with meat against the time of famine." The Indians, less
provident, take no thought for the morrow but obtain
their food from the forest and river as their wants require.
Scattered through the forest and along the rivers, may be
seen small yuca or mandioca plantations, Avith patches of
coffee-trees and the sugar-cane, aside from which but little
of any thing is cultivated. Cacao and rice, generally in a
wild state, add to the scanty suppUes of the inhabitants.
So rich is the soil of the Rio Negro, that, Avith the greatest
facility, abundance of every tropical product might be
raised ; but, rather than clear the forest and tOl the land,
the people prefer to pass a Avretched life of constant priva
tion and suffering. The difficulty of securing means of
subsistence was a great annoyance to us while we were
upon this river.
We found at Moroa three Spanish families, in whose
homes were many of the accompaniments and comforts of
civiUzed life. It was a little curious to find, in this remote
land, a Yankee clock ; but, as is liable to be the case Avith
such inventions, it had long since ceased to be of any prac
tical value to its OAvner, who, laboring under the delusion
that Americans are universal geniuses, proposed to us that
we repair his time-piece. After a grave examination of
the machine, some pulling to pieces and putting together
again of the parts, not less to our astonishment than his
delight, the pendulum moved on and the different sections
of the contrivance resumed their proper functions. For
this artistic achievement we received several preserved
specimens of beautiful birds.

li^O ATABAPO AND UPPER EIO NEGRO.
At Moroa we saw, for the first time, the beautiful bird
called gallo de piedra, cock of the rock, which is the size
of a pigeon, with a bright-orange color, and a large feath
ered crest of the same brilUant hue upon its head. They
are highly prized by the Indians of the Rio Negro, who
capture the gorgeously-colored birds of the forests with
their cerbatanas and poisoned arrows, for the sake of their
beautiful plumage, which they use in adorning their ham
mocks. These are manufactured from the pahn-leaf, the
fibres of which are twisted by hand into threads and dyed
of various colors, then closely woven on rudely-constructed
hand-looms. A border of the same material ten or twelve
inches broad is added, ornamented Avith designs of birds
and flowers, beautifully wrought Avith feathers, constituting
an exceedingly rich embroidery. The manner of weaving
hammocks, as weU as the palm from which the material
is obtained, varies with different tribes. The Indians of
the Rio Negro and Upper Orinoco use the fibres of the
Tucum (Astrocaryum vulgar e), and make a coarse cloth
like fabric ; those of the Apure and Lewer Orinoco gen
erally employ the threads of the Moriche (Mauritia flex
uosa), which is woven with large, net-Uke meshes.
We could procure, at Mor6a, only manoca with Avhich
to provision ourselves for our long voyage to the Ama
zons, while the towns and conucos * along the river, we
were told, would be found equally destitute, which our
experiences afterward fully corroborated. It was also the
wet season, in which we could depend but Uttle upon game
or fish, as during the time of high water the forest animals
are driven from the inundated plains of the river, and the
fishes are less easily taken on account of the deepening
waters, from which also many species migrate to the
swollen tributaries. Our vessel was one of the roughly-
* The same as rancho ; a rude hut constructed of pahn-leaves for
temporary residence.

SAN MIGUEL. lYl
made sailing-craft of the country, twenty-five feet in
length and seven in width. A palm-thatched roof, cover
ing ten feet of the stern, constituted our cabin. In these
contracted quarters were stowed a quantity of hammocks,
which Seiior Levdl was sending to Barra, our baggage, and
collections to which we had added largely of Indian curi
osities at Mor6a. Beneath the floor of our carroza our
turtles were kept, when we were so fortunate as to have
any. In front of the carroza were placed our baskets of
manoca, which, as we have said, constitjitued our sole sup
ply of provisions. Our crew consisted of five Indians ;
four of whom were paddlers, and the other, a gray-headed
patriarch, was our patron. One of the number we had
secured Avith special reference to his knowledge of the
river, and familiarity Avith the peculiar languages of the
various Indian tribes which inhabit its banks. None of
the others had ever been to any considerable distance
doAvn the Rio Negro.
It was sunset on the 13th of December when we left
Moroa, descending rapidly vdth the swift current of the
dark stream, one-quarter of a mile in breadth. A few
miles down we tarried a short time at Toma, a village of
some three hundred inhabitants, at the mouth of a small
stream bearing the same name ; and still farther doAvn,
upon the opposite bank, we came to San Miguel, where
we spent the night. This town is the largest we had seen
since leaving San Fernando de Apure, and is the most
considerable of any upon the Rio Negro before reaching
Barra. Like the other towns of the Upper Rio Negro,
its inhabitants are engaged in ship-buUding ; the vessels,
such as we have before alluded to, being taken doAvn to
the Amazonian market, or, by the Cassiquiare, to Angos
tura and the northem coast.
At two o'clock in the morning, after five hours of rest,
we reembarked. The river, although rapidly faUing, was

172 ATABAPO AND UPPER EIO NEGEO,
Still quite high, and the rocks, which at low water obstruct
navigation, were now covered, so that, with a strong cur
rent to aid us, we made rapid progress. We stopped dur
ing the day at several Indian conucos in hopes of purchasing
turtles, but found none untU reaching Tiriquin, at 4 p. m.,
a village of some forty dwellings upon the west shore, at
which place we were successful, and partook of our first
meal for the day. Coming to anchor, at nine o'clock in
the evening, where we observed a deserted hut, we took
possession, and rested untU two hours after midnight. At
sunrise we passed without difficulty the Raudal de Cocui,
and just below this the mouth of the Cassiquiare, which
is about one-third of a mile in breadth. Its white waters,
similar to those of the Orinoco, of which they are a part,
presented a striking contrast to the black current of the
Rio Negro. Three leagues farther, and we were at San
Carlos, the frontier town of Venezuela, and the lowest
point on the river reached by Humboldt and Bonpland in
their passage from the northem coast of Venezuela. A
custom-house is established here, from which it was neces
sary to obtain clearance even for our small craft, before
we could pass into the Portuguese country of Brazil. Our
passports also required to be visaed, and, for the first time
since they were received from our Secretary of State, these
interesting documents, requesting that the bearer be per
mitted " safely and freely to pass, and, in case of need, to
give him all laAvful and needful protection," were pre
sented to the scrutiny of an official. It was a little amus
ing to observe the comandante curiously scanning the
mysterious parchment, such as he had never before seen,
and which he was also unable to read, and then very
gravely affixing his signature, certifying that all was
right. The village of San Carlos consists of eighteen or
twenty miserable huts, surrounding a great square, whose

SAN CAELOS. 173
principal use was to serve as sleeping-quarter's at night
for cattle, the first we saw after leaving the Lower Ori
noco. A few hairy sheep were wandering about, grazing
the scanty herbage of the town. These creatures, in the
warm regions of the tropics, when neglected, do not pro
duce wool, as the climate renders such a thick covering
unnecessary. Nature, too, in this land of perpetual sum
mer, forgets to Avrap the buds of plants in imbricated
scales and resinous coatings, the Avinter protection of
northern vegetation. How striking an adaptability do
we observe, of life animate and inanimate, to varying con
ditions !
Neatness and taste, characteristics of other Indian
Adllages upon the Upper Rio Negro, are not virtues of
San Carlos — it is too near Portuguese civilization. The
place presents an uninviting aspect. The principal build
ing, formerly occupied by the padres, is now the head
quarters of the comandante. Old flint-muskets, accou
trements, and other paraphernaUa of war, covered with
rust from the excessive humidity of these districts, filled
one of the apartments. The remains of an old fort were
opposite the tovra, upon the high bluff of the western
bank. Having breakfasted Avith the Venezuelian official, we
departed from San Carlos, reaching, late in the afternoon
of the foUoAving day, Cocoi, a collection of three or four
houses, and the frontier post of Brazil. Here the formal
ities of the custom-house, and the examining of passports,
require the stopping of boats in their passage. Opposite
the settlement, upon the east side of the river, is the Pie
dra de Cocoi, an enormous, seemingly monolithic rock,
nearly one thousand feet in height, and half that in diam
eter at its base, which marks the boundary between the
countries of Venezuela and Brazil. Upon one side it rose
almost perpendicularly, aUowing no foothold for vegeta-

174 ATABAPO AND UPPEE EIO NEGRO.
tion; while upon its remaining sides, that sloped more
gently, bushes and dwarfed forest-trees partiaUy clothed
the otherAvise barren walls. The traveller on the Upper
Rio Negro frequently has his attention attracted by these
curious, isolated, granitic masses, which often, in taU piUars
or gigantic towers, clothed with Uttle or no verdure, rise
abruptly from the surrounding forest-level, forming a
striking feature in the monotonous landscape.

CHAPTER XIII.
VOYAGE DOWN THE EIO NEGEO.
First Glimpse of Portuguese Civilization. — Climate. — Cross the Equator. —
Cataracts of San Gabriel. — Grand Soeneiy, — ^Desertion of Guide, —
India-Rubber Manufacture. — Christmas ou the Eio Negro, — ^Floating
at Night, — ^Beauty of the Southern Firmament. — ^Lost on the Eiver.^
Baroellos. — Geology of the Rio Negro. — Desolation of the River, —
Reach Man&os, — Tidings from the Quitonian Party of our Expedition,—
Farewell to the Eio Negro,
Soon after leaving the borders of Venezuela, the Rio
Negro widens to half a league in breadth. We were now
floating through another country, yet our surroundings
would scarcely reveal to us that we had passed from a
republic to an empire. StUl, some things teU us of a change.
We hear a new language, the Portuguese, and reckon in a
new currency. We no longer estimate in Spanish pesos,
reales, medics, and centavos, but, to our utter bewilder
ment, must compute in milreis, patacas, vintas, and num
berless other denominations which are employed in the
circulatory medium of Brazil. To reduce our new cur
rency into Spanish, and that again into American money,
was a complication of difficulties which not always left us
Avith a clear conception, when change was returned, as to
how much we had given for the article purchased.
On the morning of the 14th we reached Coana, where
we again delayed, to have our passports examined. The
village, of twenty scattering huts, stands upon quite an
eminence on the left bank. We do not see, in the Indo-
9

176 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGEO.
Portuguese settlements of the Rio Negro, the square so
characteristic of Spanish toAvns ; and the houses, instead
of having their roofs formed Avith two sides, have the slant
upon four, Avith a short ridge at the top. While the co
mandante was absorbed in the mysteries of our passports,
we were partaking of a cup of chocolate, with which deli
cious beverage we were always welcomed to the home of
the Portuguese. This customary act of hospitaUty was a
new feature in our experiences, and one of which Ave heart
ily approved. Supplying ourselves with cobres, or coppers,
the common currency on the river, we journeyed on a
couple of hours, when we halted to breakfast upon a smoked
peccary, an animal about the size of a fox-squirrel. In
our culinary operations, where spits were required, great
caution was requisite in their selection, as some woods
possess such virulent properties, that meat roasted upon
them will prove fatal when eaten. Before partaking of a
meal our Indians were always careful to bathe in the river ;
or, when this could not be done Avith impunity, to pom-
water over their persons wdth a calabash. The beUef of
our Pao savant, that it was muy malo to wash before eat
ing, was no part of the creed of these chUdren of the forest.
Soap is unknown among them ; but a substitute is found
in a shrub, the leaves of which, by simply crushing in the
hand, yield a saponaceous substance that answers equaUy
well for cleaning the skin or clothes.
All day our Indians pulled at the paddles, passing sev
eral villages and conucos ; but nothing could be secured
for a meal until eveniag, when, at a little settlement, we
purchased, for a few cobres, a large fish-head, from which
we made a scanty repast. For three hours longer we
pushed on, our Indians keeping time to their paddles with
their wild, monotonous chant. At length we moored to a
rock in the stream, upon which our men slept, while we
kept bene.ith our palm-leaf covering ; for showers were

CLIMATE. 177
freqment both by night and day. The climate of the Up
per Rio Negro is somewhat peculiar. The tropical sum
mer, or dry season, is almost unknown, and rains are nearly
constant throughout the year. Especially is this true in
the districts of the rapids, where the inhabitants enjoy but
little of that deUghtful weather which for several months
blesses the valleys of the Orinoco and Amazons. Five or
six weeks of freedom from storms during the months of
January and February, and a few weeks about June, are
the only breaks in the almost constant floods of rain. The
waters of the Rio Negro reach their highest level about
the end of June. At the cataracts of the river the water
rises some twenty feet above its lowest ebb, while at San
Gabriel, after having received several tributaries, it is
twenty-five or more, and at Barra the average height is
OA'er forty feet. About March, when the Amazons is filled
Avith the floods of its southern tributaries, and while the
northern affluents are lowest, the waters of the former
block up the mouth of the Rio Negro, causing a stagnation
and even retrograde movement of its waters.
On the morning of the iVth, at four o'clock, much
later than usual, we aroused our Indians. Several little
villages were passed during the day, and at 4 p. m. we
were at Guia, a small Indian settlement, with one Portu
guese family, that were bribed by a milreis (fifty cents) to
part with a chicken, all the village could offer us. During
the afternoon we crossed the equatorial line, and floated
upon the waters of the southern hemisphere. Had cir
cumstances permitted, we would have celebrated the event
by a sumptuous feast ; as it was, we ate from a rock our
scanty meal of turtle and maiioca. The river being free
from obstructions, we allowed the boat to drift with the
current during the night ; our Indians sleeping upon their
benches. Before morning we passed the Uaupes, a tribu
tary of the Rio Negro, a river which has been made known

178 VOYAGE DOWN THE EIO NEGEO.
to the world through that celebrated EngUsh traveller,
Mr. Wallace, who twice ascended it, penetrating far toward
its source amid wild Indian tribes, of which he has given
us such graphic and interesting accounts. Five days'
journey from the Rio Negro, he encountered the first and
most dangerous falls of the UaupSs, above which, he says,
" the river became full of rocks to a degree to which even
the rockiest part of the Rio Negro was a trifle." After
our descent of the Great Cataracts of the Rio Negro, we
realized what must have been the adventurous experiences
of that bold explorer amid the torrents and cascades of
the Uaupes.
We now proceeded with greater rapidity and increas
ing danger, as we were entering the great rapids, and at
length we came to where the river was filled Avith bowl
ders and rocky ledges extending from bank to bank. At
times we were borne smoothly and SAviftly down the dark
current ; then we went plunging madly through whitened
whirlpools, amid rocks and leaping waters. On we rushed
down the narrow channels, formed by the islands and rock-
masses, often barely escaping destruction from the ledges
hidden beneath the sheet of foam. At 1 p. m. we reached
San Gabriel, a military post Avith a fort and garrison. The
village occupies quite a commanding position, overlooking
the rapids just below, which are the principal ones of the
extended series of the river, and more dangerous than
those we had encountered. These, after a short rest, we
proceeded to pass. Pushing into the middle of the cur
rent, we were borne down among the breakers, every man
straining at his paddle to keep the boat rightly headed,
and to shun the rocks that studded the river. It was Avith
a feeling of relief that we at length saw ourselves riding
safely below the obstructions. We continued doAvn the
river, plunging now and then into a whu-ling eddy, with
out a greater mishap than shipping a quantity of water.

GRAND SCENERY. I79
Toward evening- Ave descended a rapid inferior only to the
one at the village of San Gabriel, when, drawing up into
a Uttle cove upon a sandy beach, we gladly rested from
the fatigues and dangers of the day. Early in the morn
ing we passed the last rapid on the river, and our canoe
floated upon quietly-flowing waters.
The entire length of these Great Cataracts of the Rio
Negro cannot be less than forty miles. Wallace, in his
interesting travels on the Rio Negro, thus speaks of them :
" The navigation of these falls is of a character quite dis
tinct from any thing in our part of the world. A person,
looking at the river, sees only a rapid current, a few ed
dies, and small breakers, in which there appears nothing
very formidable. When, however, you are in the midst
of them, you are quite bewildered with the conflicting
motions of the waters. Whirling and boiling eddies,
which burst up from the bottom at intervals, as if from
some subaqueous explosion, with short cross-waves, and
smooth intervening patches, almost make one giddy. On
one side of the canoe there is often a strong down-current ;
while on the other it flows in an opposite direction. Now
there is a cross stream at the bows, and a diagonal one at
the stern, with a foaming Scylla on one side and a whirl
ing Charybdis on the other. All depends upon the pilot,
who, well acquainted with every sunken rock and danger
ous whirlpool, steers clear of all perils ; now dfrecting the
crew to pull hard, now to slacken, as circumstances re
quire, and skilfully preparing the canoe to receive the im
petus of the cross-currents that he sees ahead."
In the afternoon we stopped at the small village of
Victoria, upon the west bank, and endeavored to replenish
our exhausted supplies ; but, faiUng, we went without food
for the day. Our Indians continued at the paddles until
nine in the evening, when they ceased, and the canoe was
allowed to drift with the current. This was our usual

180 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGEO.
manner of procedure after leaving San Gabriel ; for the
river was no longer obstructed by rocks, until far down
tOAvard Barra ; and, although the current was not strong,
we often made one-half the distance at night that we did
during the day.
At dayliglit on the morning of the 21st we came to
Camhosa, a dilapidated village, inhabited by a single Por
tuguese family, that in this isolated spot of the earth, amid
ruin and desertion, eked out a miserable existence. We
procured from them some dried beef — a rare luxury in
these regions. We had eaten our last upon the Orinoco.
A little farther on, and we passed upon the opposite side,
to our left, a collection of eight huts, called Wanawaca.
Drifting all night, we reached by morning Castanheho, a
nearly-deserted village, like all of the settlements on the
Lower Rio Negro. How strange and sad it seems in this
land, so greatly blessed by Nature, Avith a soU so produc
tive that, under the improving hand of cultivation, it
Avould smUe with plenty, to see the once populous toAvns
almost deserted and falling to decay, and the few remain
ing people starving for want of food !
From San Gabriel the river had been growing more
picturesque, lovely islands filling the stream in countless
numbers, clothed Avith beautiful verdure in varying forms
and colors. The river was rapidly widening, and, when
the iglands here and there gave way, we looked doAvn the
broad expanse of water until the eye rested upon the
blank horizon. Great beds of aquatic grass, Uke floating
meadows, went sailing down the cun-ent. Bu-ds were
more frequently seen than upon the upper waters of the
river, still they were not abundant. Parrots, which had
made their first appearance upon the Rio Negro near San
Gabriel, morning and evening, flew across the river, utter
ing their hoarse cries. Guacamayas, the largest and most
beautiful species of the parrot family, were occasionally

A NAEROW ESCAPE. 181
seen. One we measured was, from tip to tip, over three
feet, with a spread of wings of three feet and eight inches.
The plumage of this bird glows in vivid colors of blue,
purple, green, red, and yellow, and with its long sweeping
tail it presents a gaudy appearance. They generally go
in pairs ; of the thousands we saw, only once or twice did
we observe three in company. Their tenacity of life is
marvellous. We once wounded one Avith a charge of
shot, put a rifle-ball into its body, and two more through
its immense head, without, apparently, much weakening
effect ; for it then mounted a log, and showed fight. Our
Indians finally dispatched it Avith their knives ; but not
until it had nearly succeeded in taking revenge upon its
assailants by firing Avith its claws one of our loaded guns,
the ball narrowly escaping one of the party.
One event of the day did not afford many pleasurable
emotions. Rowing up for a rest beneath the shade of the
forest-bank, a naked Indian was spied gazing out upon us.
It was the brother of our guide, from whom he had been
long separated, and who chanced upon this spot as we
halted. With that cold indifference characteristic of their
race, they met as if they had but a few hours before parted.
When we were prepared to go, our Indian was motioned
to the boat. In words more pathetic than his actions had .
exhibited, he repUed, "Would you separate a brother
from a brother ? " As the stranger Indian would not ac
company us, and argument with the other was of no avaU,
we reluctantly left Avith one man less as a result of this
unexpected episode, which was not a pleasant one, when
we reflected that we were now without a guide or inter
preter to navigate an unknown river, encountering Indian
tribes and people whose languages were equally strange
to us. On the morning of the 23d we reached St. Isabel,
another almost deserted village with but three or four

182 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGRO.
hovels inhabited. We sought, among the few Indians re
maining in the miserable huts, swallowed up by weeds and
the encroaching forest, for a pilot to take the j^lace of the
one who had so unceremoniously forsaken us ; but none
could be induced to accomj)any us, nor did we meet Avith
better success in our many attempts to secure one after-
Avard. Conucos of India-rubber gatherers were now frequent
ly met with, but all were found wonderfully destitute of
food. We spent some little time at several; observing
AA'ith interest the wonders of rubber-making. The tree
from Avhich this product is obtained has a tall, straight
trunk, with a smooth, gray bark, beautiful foliage of ter
nate leaves, and attains a height of seventy to one hun
dred feet. The process of manufacturing the seringa, or
rubber, is simple. A withe, or slender tAvig, is bound
tightly around the tree, higher up on one side than upon
the other. Longitudinal gashes are then made in the
trunk, from which a whitish, cream-like gum exudes, and
is caught in a small clay cup placed upon the ground.
Each incision yields daily about half a gill : new gashes
are made every morning. The cups, when full, are emp
tied by the seringero, or rubber-gatherer, into a large
.vessel, which is carried at once to his conuco, and the sub
stance immediately formed into the desired shape, as it
quickly coagulates. With a fire built from the small nuts
of the Inaj4-palm (Maximiliana regia), upon one side,
and his pot of milk upon the other, the seringero seats
himself upon a rough bench and commences operations.
With a cup he pours the fluid over the mold, to which a
thin coating adheres ; then holds it for a moment in the
smoke, which dries and colors the rubber, and repeats the
process until his work is completed. The mold is con
structed either of wood or clay ; if of the first, it is coated
with clay, that the rubber may be more easily removed ;

BRAZIL-NUTS. 183
if the latter be employed, it is Avashed out. Shoes and
models of birds and fishes are readily made ; but the com
mon form in which the seringa is prepared for commerce
is in long sheets or oval pieces, made by using a paddle-
shaped mould. For a day or two, whUe the substance re
mains soft, it readily receives impressions, and fanciful
figures are often neatly traced upon it. The tree yields
its gum equally well at all times, but the dry season, or
what corresponds to such upon the Rio Negro, the months
during which the least rain falls, is generally devoted to
the manufacture of the rubber.
Besides the large production of seringa by the inhabi
tants of the Rio Negro, great quantities of sarsaparilla —
the root of a vine found principally along the tributaries
of the river — and Brazil-nuts, are annually collected. The
last mentioned is the fruit of the Bertholletia excelsa, one
of the noblest monarchs of the forest. Monkeys, in their
perambulations for the Avild fruits of the forest, pass these
by, as no ingenuity of theirs Avill gain them access to the
nuts, which are enclosed in a hard, ligneous shell, that the
natives break open with an axe. The tree requires about
eighteen months for the complete maturing of its fruit
from the bud. " The fruits, which are nearly as hard and
heavy as cannon-balls, fall with tremendous force fi-om the
height of a hundred feet, crashing through the branches
and undergrowth, and snapping off large boughs which
they happen to strike against. Persons are sometimes
killed by them, and accidents are not unfrequent among
the Indians engaged in gathering them." — ( 'Wallace.)
Christmas brought us remembrances of home, and, as
we partook of a simple fare, our thoughts naturally re
curred to the happy gatherings and joyous festivities
which mark the day in our OAvn distant land. It was sun
set when we left the island where we had tarried for our
meal, and, pushing out into the current, started upon our

184 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGEO.
nightly float. Noiselessly, and unconscious of any move
ment, we were borne down the stream, with the out
lines of the forest-walls faintly visible in the distance,
and a strange, starlit sky above ns. "Nothing," tnith-
fiiUy says Humboldt, " awakens in the traveUer a Uvelier
remembrance of the immense distance by which he is
separated from his country, than the aspect of an un
known firmament." He beholds a new heaven as well as
a new earth. He traces the stars and beautiful constel
lations that circle the southern pole, and beholds, with
feelings of wonder, the Clouds of Magellan — flushes of
myriads of distant lights that adorn these heavens. But,
of the bright clusters, that of the Cross especially fixes
the attention, and awakens the deepest emotions. " The
Portuguese and the Spaniards are peculiarly susceptible
of this feeling; a religious sentiment attaches them to a
constellation, the form of which recalls the sign of the
faith planted by their ancestors in the deserts of the New
World. The two great stars which mark the summit and
the foot of the Cross having nearly the same right ascen
sion, it follows that the consteUation is almost perpen
dicular at the moment when it passes the meridian. This
circumstance is known to the people of CA-ery nation situ
ated beyond the tropics, or in the southern hemisphere.
It has been observed at what hour of the night, in different
seasons, the Cross is erect or inclined. It is a time-piece
which advances very regularly nearly four minutes a day,
and no other group of stars affords to the n.aked eye an
observation of time so easily made. How often have we
heard our guides exclaim, in the savannas of Venezuela,
' Midnight is past, the Cross begins to bend ! ' How often
those words reminded us of that affecting scene, where
Paul and Virginia, seated near the source of the river of
Lataniers, conversed together for the last time, and where

PICTURESQUE SCENERY. 135
the old man, at the sight of the Southern Cross, warns
them that it is time to separate." *
Upon the morning of the 27th, we left the northern
bank of the river, which we did not see again until the
day before reaching Barra, or Manaos, as called by the
inhabitants of the Lower Rio Negro. We Avere told that
the left shoM was almost uninhabited, and that we would
be unable to secure provisions. We therefore determined
upon crossing to Barcellos, and foUoAving the southern
bank the remainder of the way. The river was now
spread out to a great breadth, and filled with islands, so
that both banks could no longer be seen at once. We do
not recollect navigating through more picturesque scenery ;
there was a wild beauty in those lovely islands, covered
with graceful palm-trees and a growth of vegetation so
luxuriant that the eye could not penetrate within their
dark recesses. Remove the palms, and we could have
fancied ourselves floating through the Thousand Islands
of the St. Lawrence. During the forenoon our Indians
killed with their palancas a curious, circular, flat fish, called
arraia. This strange ichthyological creature, fifteen inch
es in diameter, with a thickness not to exceed three
inches, had a cylindrical tail a foot in length, armed with
long, thorn-like appendages, which, in its dying rage, it
fastened in its body with such force as to be removed Avith
difficulty. It was most unsavory eating, but, for want of
something better, we halted at noon upon a playa-island,
collected drift-wood for a fire, cooked our game, and en
joyed our only meal for the day. We then continued our
Avanderings among the forest-islands, in the vain attempt
to reach the southern shore, until the darkness overtook
us, when we fastened to a point of land and waited in our
boat for the morning. Again our Indians were toiling at
the paddles, now making way against the current, or Avind-
* " Humboldt's Travels," vol. i., p. 135.

186 VOYAGE DOWN XHE EIO NEGRO.
ing here and there with it through the labyrinth of chan
nels which constitute the countless arms of this wonderful
river. Often, when supposing ourselves alongside of the,
main shore, we would come to a break in the land, show
ing that Ave had only been coasting along an island. An
other line of coast would also in turn dispel our illusions
by another opening, that indicated the promised land to
be still beyond.
After a day and a half spent in our attempts at crossing
the river, we came in sight of Barcellos ; our approach
being first made knoAvn to us by our Indians commencing
to dress themselves, their keen eyes haAdng discovered the
tOAvn upon a high bluff in the distance, long before it came
within the range of our less acute vision. We arrived at
a fortunate time, for the inhabitants were gathered from
their conucos to pass the Christmas fiesta, and the place
was well supplied with food for the occasion. Barcellos
was formerly the capital of the province of Rio Negro,
but is now a sad picture of fallen houses, streets overgrown
with weeds and bushes, with a thick jungle that penetrates
through the centre of the town. Some thirty houses stUl
remain, with now and then one whitewashed, and covered
with a tiled roof. Most of them are occupied during fiestas,
but, Avhen these are over, the people are scattered to their
conucos through the forest, when the place presents a still
more deserted and forlorn aspect. A small church indi
cated the presence of the padres, who, with indefatigable
zeal, have extended their labors to most of the Indian
tribes of the country. Blocks of marble lying- upon the
shore, and bearing the insignia of Portugal, attracted our
attention. They had been imported from Europe when
Brazil was yet a Portuguese colony, and Avere intended for
government buildings, Avhich, however, Avere never erected.
Seeking the house of the ecclesiastic, we were kindly wel
comed ; and the padre, upon learning that for two days Ave

GEOLOGY OF THE RIO NEGEO. 137
had been almost without food, presented us with a large
turtle, which our Indians carried to the boat, rejoicing in
the prospect of a sumptuous meal. Hospitality is one of
the prominent virtues of the people of this country. They
often have but Uttle they can give, but that is freely shared
with the stranger Avho chances among them.
Furnishing ourselves with turtles and other supplies
sufficient for five or six days, the time supposed necessary
in which to reach Man^s, we left Barcellos. When out
of sight of the town, our Indians undressed themselves,
and, rolling up their garments, tucked them carefully away,
for use upon our arrival at the next village. We were now
probably upon the widest portion of the Rio Negro. The
breadth df the river in its broadest parts has been esti
mated by some as great as ten leagues. Wallace, in speak
ing of the river, says he is convinced that in some places
it is between twenty and thirty miles Avide, and for a con
siderable part of its course from Manaos to St. Isabel,
fifteen to twenty. By persons well acquainted with the
Rio Negro, we were informed that at Barcellos, where it
probably spreads out to its greatest breadth, the opposite
shores are about four leagues apart. Our own experiences
in crossing the river confirmed us in the correctness of
this estimate. In the lower part of its course, the fall is
so slight that the current, as you approach the mouth, is
scarcely perceptible, and often the voyager is in doubt
whether he is ascending or descending the river. In the
season of greatest floods many of its islands are beneath
its surface, presenting the appearroice of forest growing out
of the water, while its low banks are, in parts, overflowed,
and Avide strips of the country upon either side inundated.
On the night of the 28th, our float was interrupted sev
eral hours by a strong wind which blew up the river.
Breezes on the Rio Negro are but little felt above Barcel
los, but beloAV that point they are quite constant up the

188 VOYAGE DOWN THE EIO NEGEO.
Stream, assisting the upward-bound voyager, but often
driving back upon its course, in spite of paddles, the de
scending canoe.
Upon the morning of the last day of the year, we
passed Carvoeiro, and two hours later landed for breakfast
upon some granitic rocks, the first of any kind that had
appeared below St. Isabel. Not far below this point the
Rio Branco, the largest tributary of the Rio Negro, pours
in its white waters from the north. This river abounds in
the great tortuga and other species of tortoises, which,
during the season when they resort to the playa to deposit
their eggs, draw thither the inhabitants of the Rio Negro,
and the settlements that exist upon its OAvn banks, for the
purpose of supplying themselves Avith food against the
long dearth of the rainy period. For three hundred mUes
from its mouth, the Rio Branco is said to be unbroken
with rapids, and the country through which it flows,
densely wooded.* Above this, obstructions prevent its
navigation, excepting Avith light canoes, and open savannas
sjiread out from its banks, affording pasturage to herds of
wUd cattle from which the inhabitants of Mandos obtain
their supply of beef. A portage of a couple of hours con
nects the head-waters of the river Avith those of the
Essequibo. f
Late in the afternoon, and several hours below the Rio
Branco, we reached Pedrero (sometimes written Pedrei-
ra), a village of twenty houses, the highest point reached
by Agassiz in his excursion on the " Ibicuhy " up the Rio
* Upon the banks of this river is found the remarkable m&raponima,
" tortoise-shell wood," a most beautiful wood much employed in the arts.
f Upon the Potaro, a tributary of the Essequibo Eiver, there has re
cently been discovered (April, 1870), by Mr, C, B, Brown, of the Geo
logical Survey of British Guiana, a fall of over eight hundred feet iu
height, which is said to have but few rivals in picturesqueness and gran
deur.

LOOKING FOE FOOD. 189
Negro. On the following forenoon we came to Aidon, a
collection of half a dozen huts, and landed upon ledges of
sandstone which form the coast. Just before reaching
here we had passed rocks of pure hornblende, which jutted
out prominently from the bank into the river. Farther
down, on the following day, we stopped to examine sand
stone cliffs, worn by the action of the water into grotesque
caves and excavations. Brown hematite was abundant in
the rocks ; fragments and smooth globules of which, left
by the disintegration of the sandstone, formed the beach.
The geology of the Rio Negro is simple. Above the Rio
Branco granitic rock forms the surface ; at Pedrero this
passes into a metamorphio granitoid rock; below that
point sandstone covers all indications of granite. Upon
this lies a red-clay deposit, often rising into considerable
bluffs. On the morning of the 4th, at a cluster of seven or
eight dwellings, we landed in search of food. The time
for which we had provisioned our vessel at Barcellos had
expired, and our last turtle, with what else we had, was
consumed the day before. We learned that we were still
three or more days distant from Manaos, with but Uttle
prospect of obtaining much in the commissary line before
reaching there. In one of the huts we entered the inmates
were making a joyous meal upon a young alligator, and
in another a couple of monkeys Avith skins removed, but
with hands and heads stUl attached to their blackened
bodies, looking like infants hung up by their heels, were
roasting over a fire, preparatory for a cannibalistic feast.
Amid this wretched destitution we were glad to secure a
small piece of dried pirarucu, a monster fish (Sudis gigas)
common in the waters of the Amazons and Lower Rio
Negro. It has a small head, Avith a body five to eight
feet in length, covered with heavy scales. The flesh is
exceedingly coarse, excepting portions which are masses

190 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGEO,
of solid fat. With manoca it constitutes the chief article
of subsistence of the inhabitants along the rivers where
found, besides being salted and dried in large quantities
for the Para market and cities along the coast ; the long
strips and broad, slab-like pieces being packed in bundles
for transportation. The Lower Rio Negro is most thinly
inhabited. We often went days without meeting a canoe
upon the river ; and the country seemed Avild and deso
late in the extreme. Our progress was slow, being great
ly retarded by the easterly trade-Avinds sweeping up from
the Amazons, while the rocks which now filled the stream
prevented our drifting Avith the current at night. As some
one has truthfully observed, one must be an ardent lover
of Nature to travel through these Avild and uninhabited
regions ; otherwise but little compensation avUI be received
for all the toils and privations incident to such a journey.
Apprehensive lest we should be too late for the Ama
zonian steamer, which we learned, from canoes upward
bound, would sail from Manaos for Para on or about the
Sth of the month, we induced our Indians to work through
the night of the 5th. The coming day the wind was strong
and against us, and our progress consequently slow and
laborious, notwithstanding we coasted close to the shore,
which rose here in high, abrupt cliffs. A small piece of
pirarucu-fish, Avhich Ave divided among ourselves, with a
little dry maiioca, was the only food taken during the
day. Just before sunset w^e emerged from the islands
among which we had been confined so long, and entered
upon the open river, that spread out Uke a lake, ten mUes
or more in breadth. Throughout the night our Indians
continued at their paddles, resting only a couple of hours
toward morning, when they again resumed their places,
toiling all day against a strong head-wmd and heavy sea.
Several times Ave scaled the high bluff in search of food,
whenever a hut appeared at its top ; but not a single mor-

MANAOS. 191
sel did we have for the day. At 3 p. m. we came to where
the Rio Negro narrov/s to a mile in breadth, the waves
breaking in foam upon a wild, rocky coast. The winds
were sweeping so violently through the strait that we were
obliged to delay several hours, and then with considerable
difficulty we made the passage, and entered another great
bay of white-capped water. Night at length came on, but
our faithful Indians did not cease their labors. Extended
playas stretched along the now low and partially-submerged
shores, in passing which om- natives would lay in their
paddles and take to the palancas. Hungry from our fast
ings, we threw ourselves upon the rough poles of our couch.
It was three o'clock in the morning when we were awak
ened by our canoe grating the beach. No tOAvn could be
seen, and we were about to ask the cause of our stopping,
Avhen the ringing of a bell was heard, breaking the stUl-
ness of the early morning. It was a welcome sound, for
it told us that our long wanderings of weary months were
at length terminated. We looked around and saw that
our exhausted Indians had thrown themselves upon the
sand. We allowed them to rest until break of day, when
arousing them we rounded the point of land in our front,
and were at Manaos.
The toAvn is pleasantly located upon the left bank of
the river, ten miles from the Amazons. It contains a
mixed population of two thousand, the principal elements
being Portuguese, Indian, and Negro. The town is trav
ersed by two ravines, spanned by quite substantial bridges,
the first we had seen since leaving Valencia. They lend
quite an artistic appearance to the place as viewed from
the riA^er. A large cathedral is also in process of erection,
and has been for the last dozen years. It seems strangely
out of proportion to the present population of Manaos ;
but it is probable that some sage padre has had sufficient
prevision to see that the town is destined to become, from

192 VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NEGEO.
its location, one of the largest and most important in the
Amazonian Valley, and that the structure is being adapted
to the probable exigencies of the future.
Mandos possesses what is rarely to be found in the
heart of the Amazonian vaUey — a water-fall. So level is
this great plain, that the sound of falling water never
comes to the ear. The voyager upon the sluggish current
of the Lower Rio Negro longs for the sight of clear, leaping
water. At Manaos he can have this desire gratified, dur
ing certain seasons of the year. A short walk of two mUes
over a forest-path brings you to a Uttle cascade. We say
it may be seen only during a portion of the year, because,
as the falls are scarcely ten feet high, when the Amazons
rises, they are, as Agassiz expresses it, " droAvned out."
In our rambles though Manaos on the day of our arri
val, we were not a little surprised to be accosted by a
gentleman in English. He was the OAvner of a large es
tate upon the southern bank of the Rio Negro, and from
him we learned that a party of half a dozen Americans
had recently arrived in the place. They were Southern
ers, and prominent ex-Confederate officers, who had emi
grated to Brazil, where, with slavery for their corner-stone,
they purposed founding a colony. Dr. Dowsing, the leader
of the expatriated party, had obtained for this purpose a
grant of land from the Brazilian Government, wherever in
the Amazonian Valley he might choose to locate. Others
were expected to join them from the States as soon as a
site should be selected for a settlement. The Rio Branco
had been, at first, decided upon, but some considerations
had led to a change of plans, and they were now prepar
ing to ascend one of the southern tributaries of the Ama
zons. From this company of Americans we learned that the
Quito party of our expedition had, two weeks before,
stopped at Mandos upon their way doAvn the Amazons.

LEAVE MANAOS. I93
This was the first intelligence of them received since our
separation at New York. They had succeeded in crossing
the Andes, and in reaching the Rio Napo, one of the north
ern tributaries of the Amazons. But our joy at hearing
of their success was saddened by the information that
one of their number had been buried upon the Andes.
We were unable to determine, from the description of our
informants, who were the surviving members of the party.
With this uncertainty we left Manaos, January 10th, upon
the steamer Belem, hoping to join our friends at Para
before they should sail for home.
Having now crossed the path of the Quitonian party
of our expedition, we will close this sketch of the Vene
zuelian division, to give an account of their experiences
among the Andes and upon the Great River.

CHAPTER XIV.
EEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS.
Aspinwall, — Across the Isthmus. — Tropical Vegetation, — Panama,— Upon
the Pacific, — Paita, — Peruvian Coast, — Ancient Sea-Beaches, — Causes
of Sterility and Low Temperature,— Eetm-n Northward.— Forest.—
Guayaquil. — Preparations for Climbing the Andes. — Scenery of the
Guayas. — First View of Chim'borazo. — Niglit-Sccne upon the Eiver.
We had been only nine days upon the Atlantic, when
we were greeted by the low hUls of the Isthmus of Pana
ma, skirting the southern horizon. Clouds hung around
the highest points, through which the sun Avould occasion
ally break and shoot along the wooded slopes, rendering
more vivid the dark emerald coloring of the forest, that
contrasted beautifully with the white lines of surf break
ing along the shore. A line of low, white buildings upon
a marshy coast indicated the site of AspinwaU. Drawing
nearer, we could discern the diminutive cabins of the ne
groes, half embowered by the rank, encroaching vegetation
of the surrounding marsh. The luxuriant banana, whose
drooping leaves seemed striving to conceal the rich, yellow
clusters of ripening fruit, and the palm tossing out from
the top of its slender shaft a beautiful tuft of feathery
leaves, which dipped gracefully in the slight breeze,
stamped the tropical character of the scenery.
Our steamer, in approaching her moorage, unfortu
nately grounded, and we were obliged to pass the night

PANAMA. 195
upon shipboard. The following morning we were placed
ashore, and, stepping upon the open, cane-seated cars
awaiting us, we were borne swiftly toward the Pacific.
What wonders does Nature here present ! We felt as
though transferred to another world. The vegetation, so
different from our northern, so A'-aried, wild, and luxuriant,
impressed us at each turn with new revelations of its
beauty and prodigality. Springing fi-om the reeking soil
stood the palm-like tree-fern, which all our associations had
placed far back in those strange, endogenous forests of
the carboniferous age ; vines festooned them heavily,
while brilliant orchidaceous plants enriched the drapery ;
palms crowned each little rise, lifting their heads above
the sea of verdure, formed by trees presenting an aspect
similar to that of our northern woodlands, only denser
and freer in growth, richer and darker in color. But we
must not anticipate ; for we shall find all repeated in the
vegetation of the equatorial regions, even far surj)assed
by the tropical forest of the Guayas and Amazons.
After a ride of three hours over a sinuous road, we
find ourselves in the picturesque old toAvn of Panama.
Besides its old walls, overrun with vines, and its anti
quated buildings, it claims the prestige of a romantic his
tory, associating itself with the wild adventures of the
bold conquistadores. Panama is pleasantly located. As
seen upon an approach from the railroad, it presents quite
an attractive appearance, nestled close to the shore, with
the bay as a watery perspective ; viewed from the harbor,
it has a fine background of sloping hills.
Late in the evening of the llth, the steamer " Panama,"
of the British South Pacific Mail Steamship Company,
moved slowly from her moorings off the little islet of Ta-
boga, embraced by the bay of Panama, and commenced
to gently bow to the low, deep swell of the Pacific. It
was a beautiful, tropical night ; the moonlit bay, one which

196 FEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS.
vies in picturesqueness with that of Naples and Rio Janei
ro, set with islands resting upon their reflection in the sil
vered water, was invested A\dth a beauty only to be found
beneath a tropical sky. As the land slowly withdrew into
the rich, mellow haze, we fell to watching the bright
sparkle of the moonlight upon the rippUng water, and the
dull, phosphorescent gleam playing in our wake, born
from the myriads of animalcula which swarm these
waters.* Each evening we observed Avith interest the
familiar constellations of the northem heavens, as night
by night they took a lower position, and new clusters ap
peared above the southern horizon. Just before we crossed
the equator, the polar star, which we had watched as the
last heaven-mark of our northern home, sank from our
view. In passing from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we left he-
hind us those storms and sudden squaUs which render
navigation so unpleasant upon northern waters. The days
were uniformly pleasant, the nights clear and beautiful,
and the heat of a vertical sun was tempered by the strong
trade-winds which met us constantly from the south. The
third day from Panama we passed the point of St. Helena,
the most Avestern cape of Ecuador (or Equator), which
presents the appearance of a vast artificial fortification
froAvning threateningly upon the opening bay of Guaya
quil. The morning of the 14th we were abreast the Pera-
vian coast. The long line of crumbling, gray cliffs re
ceded into verdureless plains, relieved only by narrow
bands of vegetation which marked the course of some Uttle
stream, fed by the moister heights of the CordUleras. In
vain the traveller looks for the towerins: ranges of the
Andes, for heavy clouds hang enviously about them.
"* Phosphorescence has been generally supposed to be the product of
the vital force possessed by microscopic organisms. Darwin, however,
supposes it to be the result of the decomposition of the organic particles.

PAITA, 197
Entering a small bay, which appeared as though
scooped out by the action of the waves, we discovered,
crowded between the gray cliffs and the sea, half buried
beneath the drifting sands of the desert, the Avretched
town of Paita. The first question which the traveller sug
gests to himself, after having surveyed the curious pile of
quaint, mud-plastered, tumble-down, bamboo structures, is,
" What could possess any people to set up their household
gods in such a desolate portion of creation ? " It is, in
deed, curious to observe where man has sought out a
habitation. How often we find him presumptuously plant
ing his little domicile upon the very flank of some restless
volcano, which he knows Avill eventually heap it in rub
bish ! Deserting the inviting plains of La Plata, he has
travelled southward, crossed the Straits of Magellan, and
melts with the warmth of his own body the falling snows
of the inhospitable Tierra del Fuego ; upon the delta of
the Orinoco he has swung his house in the trees, when the
fertile Llanos and mountain-flanks of Venezuela offer him
an enviable home. The only excuse we could flnd for the
existence of Paita was in the fact that it served as a port
to more pretentious inland toAvns.
Going ashore we followed our guide through the nar
row streets, which are just wide enough to admit the pass
ing of two pack-animals. Through these contracted pas
sages we wended our way, dodging the careless donkeys
which, with cargoes apparently adjusted with no particular
reference to the safety of pedestrians, rushed recklessly
through the streets. We kept our eyes with ill-concealed
apprehension upon the seemingly heavy walls of the
houses, the most of which were alarmingly removed from
perpendicularity; but the discovery that beneath the
plastering of mud, which gave them their wall-like appear
ance, Avas only a slight frame-work of sf)lit canes, lessened
our fears ofthe evil consequences which might attend the

198 FEOM PANAMA NO BODEGAS,
catastrophe that they seemed disposed any moment to in
stitute. It being the hour of morning mass, our guide led
us directly to the church. It was a unique structure, and
faithfully characteristic in that it was maintaining its pe
culiar position in utter defiance of aU laws of gravitation.
Without, it was plastered Avith mud, and thickly thatched ;
the interior Avas pewless, but ornamented with mutUated
tissue- paper. About a hundred worshippers, chiefly wom
en, were assembled, and in the absence of seats were kneel
ing or squatting upon the floor. As Fletcher has observed
among the Brazilians, so here praying is mostly done by
the women. A negro, armed with a ruinously-impau-ed
drum, composed the orchestra. The exercises conducted
by the priest were unmeaning genuflections and crossings,
with various manipulations and kisses of the crucifix and
Bible. There was not one word of instruction for the poor
Indian, or a single admonition to the sinful Spaniard.
From the church we strolled on through several nar-
roAV streets, and, clambering up the cUffs back of the toAvn,
found ourselves upon the sands of the great Peruvian des
ert. Treeless and verdureless, it stretched away in vast
undulations, Avith nothing to arrest the eye save long-
trains of donkeys loaded with kegs of water, wending their
way over the glaring waste. AU the water used in Paita
is brought from the Piura River, a stream many leagues
inland, born among the snows of the sierras.
The specimens of fossU marine fauna, which enter large
ly into the formation of the cliff, and which are identical
with species now inhabiting the waters, tell us that this
desert long constituted the ocean-bed ; but that internal
forces, so active along the western shore of this continent,
liaA'o elevated it to its present position. Portions of this
coast have been lifted nearly one hundred feet during the
last three hundred years. Shells are found high upon the
Avcstcni slope of the Andes along a line of two thousand

CAUSES OF STERILITY. I99
miles. Extensive sea-beaches, at an elevation of over half
a mile, indicate long cessations in the action of the eleva-
tory forces, while the waves of the Pacific were beating
against and wearing down the rising wall of the Andes.
This great desert, extending from the sea to the foot of the
CordUleras, stretches with a varying breadth of ten to
twenty leagues, from three degrees south of the equatorial
line to the northern portions of Chili, over the whole of the
Peruvian coast. The absence of rain upon this coast, and
its consequently arid aspect, are due to the proximity of
the lofty waU of the Andes, which effectually arrests all
storm-clouds from the east, whUe the prevaiUng southerly
trade-Avinds drive aU the vapors of the Pacific from the
coast. As has been often observed, had the physical con
formation of South America been changed, the Andes be
ing placed along the Atlantic coast, the greater portion
of the continent would have been swept by Avinds, de
prived of all their moisture ; and, instead of South Ameri
ca, Avith its teeming valley of the Amazons, we would have
had another Africa with its Libyan desert. But now the
Cordilleras, standing close to the Pacific shore, with their
cool heights acting as a " great condenser," Avring every
drop of moisture from the clouds borne upon the equatorial
trade-winds from the Atlantic, and throw down their
waters in torrential rains all along the eastern slope of
the Andes. South America owes what it is — a continent
of vegetation — to this mountain-wall along its western
border. As one looks up to the whitened summit of those
CordUleras, lifted all along to the Une of perpetual snow,
he is sometimes led to ask why they were raised so high.
The long desert coast-line returns an answer. They are
the great wall, lifted by a wise Creator to guard a conti
nent and water the rich garden of the Amazons. As in
all of Nature's work we find a beautiful proportion and
harmony, we can conceive, before climbing that mountain-
10

200 FEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS.
barrier, what wealth and beauty of vegetation we shall
find within the great Amazonian Valley.
The nights upon this coast are uncomfortably cold ;
mornings we found our overcoats essential to comfort.
This low temperature may be referred to the rapid radia
tion of heat from the desert, and to the cold ocean-current,
which, sweeping from the southern sea, carries the chilling
influence of its polar waters almost to the equator. Our
coUeotions at this point comprised specimens of the present
marine fauna and fossUs from the cliffs. The floral king
dom was represented by only two species of diminutive
shrubs, almost destitute of leaves, belonging to the natural
orders Rhamnaceae and Leguminosse. The latter we
afterward found upon the highlands of Quito, where it
assumed almost arboreal dimensions.
Upon the evening of the 16th, the Favorita steamed
into the bay, and stepping aboard we gladly bade farewell
to Paita and the Peruvian coast. Just before entering the
Gulf of Guayaquil, and eighteen miles below Tumbez, we
pass several petroleum-wells, located upon a sterile coast,
which are yielding a remunerative supply of oil. One day
from Paita brings us opposite the Ecuadorian coast.
Ecuador presents a verdant front to the Pacific. Ever
green tropical forests fringe heavily its western shores ;
for the winds which sweep the Peruvian coast lose their
regularity as they approach the equator, and the vapors
are distilled in heavy showers. The dark emerald of the
vegetation presents a pleasing contrast to the gray cliffs
and arid plains of Peru. This tropical forest, replacing
the great desert three degrees south of the equator, ex
tends northward, throwing its dense shades along the
Guayas, and over the wilds of the Esmeraldas,* and
* The Esmeraldas is tho largest river upon the Pacific slope of South
America. It is supposed by some to take its name from the emeralds
that were obtained in large quantities from that locality at the time of the

GUAYAQUIL. 201
stretches to Panama, its western edge bordering the Paciflc,
while its eastern flank Ues high upon the steep slope of
the Andes. Under the equator tree vegetation reaches an
elevation of about eleven thousand feet,* when it gives
place to the paramos, or grass-lands, which extend up
to the line of perpetual snow, found upon the equatorial
Andes at 15,740 feet.
Toward evening of the second day from Paita, we
entered the Gulf of Guyaquil, passing the island of Puna,
which afforded to Pizarro a temporary station, when seek
ing an entrance to the kingdom of the Incas. It presents
a low coast-line, and is densely wooded. Upon the morn
ing of the 19th, as we mounted to the deck, a novel scene
greeted us. During the night we had reached Guayaquil,
and were now quietly moored abreast the city. Crowded
along the shore were canoes, balsas, and floating craft of
every description, laden Avith an endless variety of tropi
cal fruits, bananas, plantains, pine-apples, oranges, cocoa-
nuts, and mangoes, products of the fertile banks of the
Guayas. Heaped upon the shore were also piles of fruit,
surrounded by crowds of half-naked, vociferating Indians,
with gayly-clad Spaniards and negroes. Meek-looking
donkeys pushed their way through the crowd, and occa
sionally an ungraceful mule-cart rolled along the street.
Though our eyes were naturally flrst arrested by this
motley market-scene, they were next caught by the archi
tectural front of the buildings Uning the Malecon — the
river street and principal one of the city. These were
two stories in height, the upper furnished with inviting
conquest. There is, however, ground for belief that it was so called by
the Spaniards on account of the vivid green of its forests, contrasted
with the sterile coast of Peru.
* The polylepis, howewer, forms an exception to this ; groves of this
tree are found upon the slopes of Chimborazo at an elevation of 13,000
feet.

202 FEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS.
balconies, which, jutting over the sidewalk, rested upon
columns, forming a low arcade — a shady retreat from the
rays of a vertical sun. Constructed of split canes, and
plastered with mud, they surpass those of Paita by having
added a coating of whitewash, and in exchanging the
thatch for neat roofs of tile.
Guayaquil is located upon the Guayas River, about
seventy miles from the sea. Almost aU imports intended
for the table-lands of Ecuador pass through this port;
and into it the elevated plains of Quito pour almost aU
their products intended for exportation. The city com
prises a mixed Spanish, Indian, and Negro population of
about twenty thousand. There is here, as, indeed, through
out Spanish America, no prejudice of race or color ; all
bai-riers are thrown down, and the results of unrestrained
amalgamation are observable everywhere throughout so
ciety. The climate of GuayaquU during the wet season is
exceedingly warm, and pestUential diseases prevail wdth
alarming fatality. The unhealthiness of the city is not
wholly the result of an unavoidable conjunction of natural
circumstances, as proximity to sluggish streams, long-
continued rains, and excessive heat, but of causes super
added to these by the uncleanly habits of the people. An
American resident, speaking of the sanitary state of the
city, remarked, " The location of Guayaquil is the most
healthful in the world." We were led to believe that its
unenviable reputation for fevers is largely referable to
causes Avhich the observance of the most obvious sanitary
requu-ements would remove. Our advent to the city was
during the dry season, which lasts from June to Decem
ber, during which portion of the year the climate is health
ful and cool. The sky is generally obscured the early part
of the day; the heavy clouds which hang about the tower
ing summits of the Cordilleras rolUnsc down durinsr the

PEOSTEATED BY FEVEE. 203
night over the city to the coast, only receding before
the heat of mid-day, to again suspend their dark veU be
tween the city and the lofty ranges of the Andes. It is
seldom that an opening rent alloA^'S a glimpse of the dizzy
heights of the Cordilleras.
Desiring to secure as large collections as possible from
this section, so seldom visited by naturalists, we made
Guayaquil our headquarters, and planned several expedi
tions upon the different branches of the Guayas. Captain
Lee, an American, who has established steam navigation
upon these streams, kindly offered us the privileges of
his steamers. We had but just commenced our work,
when we were interrupted by fever, which prostrated all
but one of our party. We cannot forbear, in this con
nection, mentioning our indebtedness to Dr. A. Destruge,
whose kindness and talent proved of great service to us.
Two weeks found us convalescent and preparing for the
passage of the Cordilleras. We were determined to es
cape as soon as possible the heat of the tropical coast, and
climb the Andes to Quito, the " city above the clouds,"
and, to the joy of travellers, also above fevers, scorpions,
and mosquitoes. As heavy rains are liable to be encoun
tered among the sierras, our baggage was carefully secured
by wrappings of tarpauUn ; while we provided ourselves
with ponchos and overcoats, for severe storms of sleet and
snow often sweep the bleak passes of the Andes. Should
the traveller be fortunate enough to escape these, the
sudden change from the sultry coast to the extreme cold
of the CordUleras renders this precaution necessary.
These preparations completed, we took passage on one
of the little T^erican steamers which navigate the Guayas
as high as Bodegas, seventy mUes above Guayaquil, from
which town the traveller takes to the back of mules. The
scenery of the Guayas is most varied and beautiful ; the
banks being heavily fringed with every form of tropical

204 FEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS,
vegetation. Large plantations of the rustling-leaved ba
nana alternate with extensive forests of cacao, the tree
which yields the chocolate of commerce. Twenty-five
million pounds are annually exported from Guayaquil, the
greater portion of which is produced upon the Guayas and
its tributaries. Orange-trees bend under their load of
golden fruit, while the magnificent mango and the bread-
tree, with its immense leaves, lend diA^ersity to the vege
tation. Here and there, seeking the water's edge, waves
a grove of graceful grasses. It seems strange to speak of
grasses as forming forest ; but here that arboreal gramen,
the Pambusa guadua, which has a deeper social instinct
than most species of tropical plants, forms dense, beauti
ful thickets. The tall, slender stalk, rising forty feet and
upward, sways in the slightest breeze, and when swept
by heavy winds the groves bend and rock Uke fields of
grain. This gramen is only surpassed in beauty by the
stately palm, which we must croAvn as the " prince of tropi
cal A'egetation." So expressive of elegance and grace, it is
not strange that it has been the favorite of aU poets whose
home has been the home of the pahn. But Flora's king
dom, varied and wonderful ¦ as it is, affords not aU of the
attractions of these regions. Animated Nature is not
lacking in representatives here. Nowhere in South Amer
ica, not even in the teeming vaUey of the Amazons, did
we observe a greater variety of ornithic forms, or find any
characterized by more varied or brilliant plumage. The
marshes were whitened with aquatic bfrds, which also
flecked the air. Only a few monlieys, however, were seen ;
for, of the eighty-six species found in the New World, not
more than three or four inhabit the forest west of the An
des. But the sluggish waters of the Guayas afford a con
genial home for alUgators, of which hundreds lined the
banks with their cuirassed bodies, which, upon our ap
proach, Avould slowly glide into the water, their move-

V ' •'^•.* m

f'fE'V'

'•'•>'ii"«iifi'if^?^>:" . IP
VAEIED SCENES. 206
ments frequently accelerated to an ungraceful plunge by
a shot from one of our rifles. Slowly we steamed up the
Guayas, stopping to take aboard every native who sig-
naUed us fi-om the shores. The bed of the stream often
compelled us to run close to the banks, so that occasion
ally our decks were swept by the overhanging trees. We
always enjoyed these brushings, untU we ran into a nest
of bees, which speedily cleared the deck. After that we
enjoyed it quite as much when we were steaming clear of
the forest.
But amid the varied scenes of the day was one not
altogether tropical. The desire of years was gratified by
a view of the mighty chain of the Andes and one of its
grandest volcanoes. The sun had already touched the
edge of the high forest, and we were seated upon deck,
watching the changing hues of the clouds as they were
touched by those soft, rich colors so characteristic of the
tropics, when a native fiiend approached, and asked if we
saw Chimborazo. " Why, no ! " we exclaimed, " is it clear
from clouds ? " " Look," said he, turning toward the east.
We looked, raising our eyes to an angle generally assumed
when taking in the summit of mountains. But nothing
appeared, save the usual heavy clouds banked high along
the horizon. " Where are you looking ? " exclaimed our
friend, casting a glance at our eyes; "here!" and he
pointed away up among the clouds. We looked, and
never will we forget that vicAV. Resting upon the high
bank of clouds, which seemed to have assumed a marble
firmness, stood Chimborazo, its snow-fields four miles
above us, flushing gold and crimson from the rich colors
of the west. The clouds, parting, rolled either way along
the slope of the Cordillera, until the long, dark wall of the
Andes stood before us, lifted to the height of fourteen
thousand feet, buttressed by a hundred darkened spurs all
along its flank. As the clouds were drawn away, the

206 FEOM PANAMA TO BODEGAS.
snowy dome of Chimborazo appeared supported ujdou the
dark Avaves of the sierras — a fltting " crown of the An
des." Vast snow-fields, broken by yawning crevasses,
indicated by heavy shading, mantled the summit of the
mountain : from the teeming tropics we looked up into
the snows of an arctic winter. Between the snow-line
and the zone of forest which covered the base of the
mountain were dark cliffs, broken and scarred by black
lines — deep chasms in the mountain's sides. As the sun
sank lower, the golden hue of Chimborazo faded to an
ashen Avhite, while its rough outlines were toned to softer
shadings ; and then the mists of evening again veUed the
Cordilleras. This sunset view of Chimborazo was followed by an
other scene, if less grand, quite as beautiful. It was the
tropical scenery of the Guayas, beneath a moonUt night.
The soft reflections from the waters, and the weird gleam
of myriads of brilliant glow-flies, sparkling in the dark
forest-walls which crowded close to the river, seemed to
convert the stream into a fairy entrance to some fabled
land, that our reveries, into which we had fallen, pictured
as lying beyond, and of which we had caught a glimpse
in the fading glories of Chimborazo.

CHAPTER XV.

CEOSSING THE ANDES.'

Bodegas, — Beneath the Forest. — Climbing the CordUlera. — Our Mules, —
Above the Clouds, — Descending Trains. — Camino Eeal, — Valley of
Chimbo, — Guaranda. — Upon the Crest of the Andes. — Arenal. — Tho
Snow-line. — ^Dreary Eide.— Zones of Vegetation. — Coloration of
Flowers of High Altitudes, — Valley of Quito, — At the Foot of Chim
borazo. — Mocha. — A Posada-scene.— Spanish Curiosity. — Ambato, —
Vespers among the Andes, — Indian Hospitality. — Latacunga. — Plain
of Turubamba. — Glimpse of Quito.
At the head of low-water steamboat navigation upon
the Guayas is located the Indo-Spanish town of Bodegas,
containing about two thousand inhabitants. Here the
traveller obtains mules and guides for the ascent of the
Andes. We reached this place late in the evening of the
first day from Guayaquil, and spent the following in se
curing animals for the transit of ourselves and baggage
over the Cordilleras : at least one day is required to con
summate the most trifling business transaction in Equa-
dor. Just at evening all was arranged, and we were in
our saddles, in high expectation of a romantic mule-ride.
Altogether we made up an interesting cavalcade. Five
pack-animals, laden with trunks, boxes, and photographic
* The equatorial Andes are divided into two longitudinal ranges,
called respectively the Eastem and AVestem Cordilleras : between these
lie the table-lands of Quito, The term Andes is sometimes applied to the
western ridge alone.

208 CEOSSING THE ANDES.
apparatus, led the van, while our party brought up the
rear — our little mules being almost buried beneath huge
rolls of blankets, saddle-bags, guns, and nondescripts in
dispensable to the traveller among the CordUleras.
It was a bright moonUt evening, and, riding untU quite
late, we drew up at a way-side hut, kept by an old negro,
and upon inquiry whether we might pass the night, received
the usual affirmative of welcome, " Como no ? " Why
not ? We knew of no good reason why we should not,
and so dismounted. Our arrieros (muleteers) unburdened
the mules, hobbled and turned them loose to crop the
short herbage immediately about our quarters. Climbing
up a rickety ladder, we found ourselves in a smaU apart
ment, laid with spUt canes which threatened to break
through at every step. Rolling ourselves in our blankets,
upon the floor, we were not long in making the discovery
that we were in a rich entomological fleld ; which state
of affairs above, in connection with an unfortunate con
junction of circumstances below, rendered even the thought
of sleeping preposterous. Directly underneath was a
wakeful cock, which insisted upon lusty demonstrations
at the most unreasonable hours ; while a calf, tied to one
of the supports of the hut, supplied the interludes of the
heavily-grunting pigs, which, with other domestic ani
mals, occupied the ground-floor of the cabin.
The shouting of our arrieros, driving in our mules, as
sured us that it was time to prepare for our day's ride.
By sunrise we were mounted and passing beneath the
dense, heavy forest which, as we have remarked, shades
the Pacific shore, and covers the basal portion of the An
des. So thickly sprang the trees, that our loaded animals
forced their way along the narrow trail only with the
greatest difiiculty. Parasites feeding upon parasites
marked the eagerness of vegetation; vines twined up
ward round tall, branchless trunks, and drooped from

BENEATH THE FOEEST. 209
their tops in beautiful coronals of leaves and flowers, con
cealing death and decay beneath Ufe and beauty ; heavy
clumps of mosses (Tillandsia) with pendant tresses, fos
tered by the humidity of the atmosphere, draped the
Avhole with their gray festoons, giving a sombre and fu
nereal aspect to the scenery; as those forest depths are
scarcely lighted by the scattering rays of the sun, which
tremblingly shoot through the thick canopy of leaves
above. During early morning the forests are resonant
with the hum of multitudinous Ufe ; but, as the day ad
vances, all grows silent, and one wandering beneath their
dark shade feels painfuUy oppressed by their solitude.
We recall now our first ramble in the forest upon the out
skirts of Vinces, a little village located upon one of the
afiluents of the Guayas. The many sounds of morning
had given way to the torpor of mid-day, and, as we strolled
in the silent wood, our own footfall almost startled us.
Rarely is the sense of loneUness so keen as when com-
panionless in the depths of a South- American forest.
For the first half day we forced our way through this
AvUderness, and by noon reached the foot of the Andes,
where we halted for a traveller's lunch, and then com
menced to ascend. Our mules scarcely ever showed any
indication of weariness. What a blessing have those ad
dicted to wandering over the by-ways of the world found
in this patient, circumspect, sure-footed animal ! NotAvith-
standing a long-founded prejudice, we conceived a deep
admiration for the species in general, from the good be
havior of our own beasts, as they bore us safely over the
steep and sUppery passes of the CordUleras. We, how
ever, had a Uttle misunderstanding at first. We addressed
them in English, not thinking of their classical deficien
cies. The result was, when we intimated to them our
desire to stop, they were sure to alarmingly accelerate
their movements ; and, when, Avith a halt being finally se-

210 CROSSING THE ANDES,
cured, we told them to move on, they would stand as
though they had as much leisure as the generality of
Spaniards, The true state of affairs not recurring to our
minds, we naturally referred all to their unregenerated na
ture ; and, consequently, our orders were often repeated,
perhaps rather peremptorily. We have not the least
doubt but that our Andean mules Avill retain to their dy
ing day vivid conceptions of cogent English. Soon dis
covering the difiiculty, we fell to addressing them in their
vernacular ; then we got along more pleasantly.
Our course w^as along a wild mountain-torrent, which
came leaping Avildly down a rocky gorge, suddenly burst
ing into view above, only to escape behind some dark
cliff below. We were constantly crossing and recrossing
its rocky bed, the strong current opposing much difiiculty
to the passage, sometimes almost sweeping our mules from
their feet. We made a rapid ascent, and, as we rose into
the cooler heights of the sierras, found ourselves envel
oped in heavy mists. We halted for the night at a small
tambo, having made an ascent of about three thousand
feet. The following morning we awoke, chilled by the
cool mountain-air. How different the bracing atmosphere
and the fresh breezes, from the heated, malaria-laden air
of the coast ! We now breathed more freely, without fear
of inhaUng with each inspiration miasma and fever. Ev
ery thing conspired to make that morning's ride the most
enjoyable of our journey. The temperate air of the moun
tains infused new life and vigor into our party, and thus
rendered us more susceptible to the influence of the bold,
wild scenery that surrounded us ; which, in its pUes of
mountains and dizzy heights, compelled us to stand still,
just to admire and wonder. Beneath us lay a heavy
stratum of clouds, resting along the flank of the sierras,
and stretching westward until blended Avith the sky, con
cealing the scenery of the lowlands, as it had hid from

ABOVE THE CLOUDS, 211
our view, Avhen Ave were beneath it, the form of the Cor
dilleras. We had passed through these clouds the day
previous, or rather entered them, for the tambo in which
we passed the night was, upon the evening of our arrival,
wrapped in thick vapors which before morning had settled
about the base of the mountains. As we looked down
upon the bright surface of this vapor-sea, beautifully tinted
by the rising sun just shooting through the ragged sum
mit of the CordUleras, with all in our upper world sun
shine and brightness, we really pitied those condemned to
live beneath its gloomy shade, and to look upon its dark
and cheerless surface. It was suggestive to us of human
life. Sometimes our sky seems to be darkened, and heav
en appears to frown. Our position is at fault ; a higher
stand-point would show a serene sky and a smiling heaven.
The sun had commenced to lift those vapor-clouds, and
already we could discern detached masses rolling up the
deep gorges, convincing us that, unless we stopped moral
izing, and proceeded to climb upward, we would very soon
be Avrapped in cold, unpoetic mist.
Slowly we mounted the Cordilleras. Such was the
confidence with which our sure-footed mules had inspired
us, that we threw the bridle over their neck, and surren
dered to them the privilege of choosing their own way.
We had less apprehension when astride them, passing
along knife-edged ridges and by dizzy precipices, than we
should have had if trusting to our own feet. Long trains
of donkeys and bulls, laden with products of the table-lands,
rushed recklessly down the precipitous path, causing us to
hug closely the cliffs, to avoid being overturned or crowded
over into the abyss. One drove safely passed, we turned
our eyes upward only to see another train, winding down
the seemingly perpendicular sides of the mountains. The
llama is seldom employed in transporting burdens over
the Cordilleras of Ecuador — we met but one in our pas-

212 CROSSING THE ANDES,
sage — but farther south, among the Andes of Peru, the
traveller encounters long trains of these " mountain-
sheep," Avhich are admirably adapted to traversing the
bleak, broken passes of those snowy sierras.
By ten Ave reached Camino Real, a collection of half
a dozen Indian huts. Unrivalled was the view which our
position afforded. The heavy clouds, that in the morning
lay at the foot of the Andes, now hung but a few hundred
feet below us, and we seemed to stand upon a precipitous
coast, the vapor-sea dashing its light waves about the
mountain-peaks which rose like islands fi-om the surface
of this cloud-ocean. Such was the view to the westward.
In our front towered still higher ranges of the CordUleras,
pushing their crests boldly upward tiU the low, shnibby
growth, struggling up the gentler slopes of the valleys,
gave way before the summit was nearly reached, leaving
their tops scarcely clothed Avith Alpine grasses. High
above all towered the peerless Chimborazo. Such are the
elements of grandeur entering into a view among the
Andes. The mind is actually oppressed by the exhibition
of power, feels a sense of uneasiness, and in vain looks
for repose amid the liftings of the hills.
Delaying at Camino Real only for a hasty refec
tion, we again remounted and rode slowly along the brow
and down the slope of the sierra. The chilling winds,
sweeping from off the ice-fields of Chimborazo, rendered
grateful the warmth of our ponchos. Scattered along our
path Avere the whitening bones of animals, and frequently
the eye would fall upon a grim human skull, crowded
into a small excavation in the bank, or bound to the arm
of a rude cross, half-buried beneath the pUe of votive
stones thrown about it by the superstitious arrieros. In
a single decaying trunk we counted seven of these reUcs
of the sufferings of the poor muleteers upon these bleak
passes.

SAN MIGUEL. 213
A little more than half-way up the slope of the Cor
dilleras lies nestled among the hills the picturesque valley
of Chimbo. We had scarcely left Camino Real, and
turned the summit of Pizcurcu, before we were brought
in full view of that truly mountain-picture. The sight of
cultivation was refreshing, after our having passed over
the forest-trail which leads from the coast. We antici
pated scenes Avild and grand among the Andes, but our
imagination had never placed there the repose and beauty
of such a vale. The sierras, shaded about their base
with dark forests, encircled it, as if to guard against all
approach ; Uttle villages clustered amid the fields, check
ered by cultivation, and hedged by lines of aloes, or cen
tury-plants. Descending from the ridge of Pizcurcu, we
stopped for the night at the little village of San Miguel.
The houses are more firmly and warmly built than those of
the coast, the walls being two or three feet in thickness,
and constructed of adobes, large mud-bricks dried in the
sun ; the roofs are thatched with paja, the long grass af
forded by the paramos. It was here that we first slept upon
beds, which, we think, and sincerely hope, are confined to
the Andes. They consisted of narrow, mud projections,
about eighteen inches in height, running around the sides
of the room. We were musing what earthly purpose they
could subserve, when our host came in and intimated that
they were to be our bed. We have seen better sleeping
arrangements. In the court-yard of the building was a
black bear, an animal found on the high slopes of the
Andes, but which seldom descends to the tierra caliente.
A short ride through the valley of Chimbo brought us
to Guaranda, a town of two thousand inhabitants, and the
half-way station between Guayaquil and Quito, where the
traveller must exchange his mules for others ; as those
coming from the coast are not allowed to enter the colder
heights of the sierras. This village lies at an altitude of

214 CEOSSING THE ANDES.
little less than nine thousand feet ; just the zone, under the
equator, of eternal spring. Five thousand four hundred
feet higher is the bleak pass leading over the highest
range to the plains of Quito. From the outskirts of the
town Chimborazo towers upward with one unbroken,
dizzy SAveep of over twelve thousand feet. The trail
which we must follow leads us up to within seven thou
sand feet of the summit of the mountain. Our Guayaqml-
ian friends had admonished us to cross the crest before
10 p. M., as later the Avinds sweep violently down the sides
of Chimborazo, and driving storms imperil the traveller
upon the pass. Although we charged our arrieros to be
ready to start by five in the morning, it was nine before
they were prepared to move. Once mounted, we made
a rapid rise, occasionally catching a glimpse, through the
drifting masses of clouds, of the icy sides of Chimborazo.
Rising higher and higher, we became enveloped in cold
mists, and, approaching the snow-line, chilling winds
rushed down the mountain, driving the falUng sleet di
rectly in our faces. Accustomed to the enervating heat
of the tierra caliente, we were doubly susceptible to the
piercing cold, which completely benumbed our bodies.
The summit of the pass was gained by scrambling up a
steep slope of sand and gravel. The extreme rarefaction
of the atmosphere at this great elevation of almost three
miles (14, 2 50 feet) rendered every exertion most fatiguing.
A large train of heavilydaden donkeys were being urged
up the precipitous bank; many, completely exhausted,
had sank upon the ground, and refused to rise, in spite of
the shouts and blows of the arrieros. When lifted to
their feet they would climb up a few steps, and then again
drop, as if lifeless, upon the sand.
The highest point reached, and w^e were upon the drea
ry waste of the Arenal— a belt of coarse sand and gravel
lying upon the sides of Chimborazo — a few hundred feet

AT THE FOOT OF CHIMBOEAZO. 215
below the line of perpetual snow. Its formation seems
to indicate a glacial origin ; it appears Uke the vast termi
nal accumulation of some glacier that may haA^e fiowed
down the slopes of Chimborazo during a period when the
snow-line was loAver than at present. We now find it upon
the equatorial Andes at 15,748 feet, while in latitude 18°
south it is 17,000 feet, and in Tierra del Fuego it descends
to Avithin 3,500 to 4,000 feet of the sea. The elevation of
the Une over a thousand feet, as vre proceed southward
from the equator, is caused by the arid nature of the Peru
vian coast. South of Concepcion, latitude 37°, the climate
changes, as is marked by the forests which there cover the
base of the Andes, and the snow-Une rapidly descends,
until in latitude 40° it lies at an elevation of only 6,000
feet. At great heights snow is probably not thawed, but
evaporated. Darwin was informed that, during an unusu
ally long and warm summer, the snow, doubtless removed
by evaporation, entirely disappeared from Aconcagua, the
highest peak of the Andes.
It is a dreary trail that leads over the icy foot of Cliim-
borazo. We shall not soon forget the feeling of utter deso-
lateness experienced while crossing that mountain-waste.
Having Ungered behind to collect specimens of the few
Alpine plants that outlive the cold of those bleak heights,
we became separated from the party and its Indian guides,
and for eight hours rode companionless over the dreary
Arenal and a lonely paramo. Upon the former all traces
of vegetation finally disappeared ; a more stern desolation
the imagination could not picture. Occasionally the clouds
would gather and drive fiercely over the barren slopes.
It is Nature, in such solitudes as these —
" Such majesty of lofty loneliness " —
that stu-s the deepest feelings ofthe soul.
While upon the summit of the Andes, we could not

216 CEOSSING THE ANDES.
but recall the different zones of vegetation through which
we had passed. Nowhere in the world does Nature crowd
together such a diversity of climate, as there directly
under the line of the equator. Just above where we stood
reigned the snows of an eternal Avinter, below, the con
stant heat of the fervid tropics, whUe the vales between
enjoyed the freshness of perennial spring. In three days
we had passed from the rank, stimulated groAvth of the
tierra caliente, to the stunted vegetation of a few hardy
Alpine plants, struggling for an existence amid the melt
ing snows of Chimborazo. The decrease of vegetation as
we ascend mountain-slopes, as well as its inferior organi
zation, is the result not only of a diminution of heat, but
also of the existence of less carbonic acid in high regions
of the atmosphere. Lichens, " children of the rocks," are
starved as well as frozen. It is curious to observe the
wide range of conditions to which vegetable organiza
tions are adapted. With our plants gathered amid the
snows of the Andes, are some found groAving under the
peculiar conditions afforded by the crater of Pichincha,
and still others taken from the Stygian waters of the hot
springs of Valencia. Specific characteristics adapt each
variety to these widely-diverging conditions of life. Find
ing species so admirably fitted to circumambient condi
tions, the question is naturaUy suggested, how far these
adaptations are referable to individual adjustment, ren
dered possible by the plastic nature of primal forms.
This is one of the most interesting questions awaiting the
solution of naturaUsts.
The bright color of the floAvers of these high altitudes
is refreshingly attractive to the eye of the traveller ; ren
dered doubly so by the gray, sear, sombre appearance of
the scene which they deck like sparkling jewels. A beau
tiful deep blue and bright yellow are the favorite colors
of these Alpine plants. The cause of the peculiar coloring

PECULIAR COLORATION OF FLOWERS. 217
of flowers of lofty elevations is the more intense actinic
properties of the unstrained light ; for, at the altitude of
a little over three miles, the rays have passed through only
one-half the quantity of air that those must traverse which
are unobstructed by mountain elevations before reaching
the ocean level. This peculiar coloration of flowers — the
predominance of blue and yellow — ^has been observed by
Bowles among the Rocky Mountains, at an elevation
exceeding only by a little one-half that at which the
phenomenon is most distinctly marked upon the Andes.
This would seem to indicate a less absorptive power
of the lower strata of the atmosphere of the temperate
zones, as compared with that of the tropics. The pale
shade, and often delicate white, of our early spring flow
ers, and the richer and more gaudy hues of summer and
autumn, are doubtless the result of the varied chemical
properties of the light during different portions of the
year. We observe that the humming-birds which flit so
constantly in the unstrained light of the lofty regions of
the Andes are more brilliantly colored than those found
upon the lowlands. May this also not be referred to the
same causes that effect the coloration of plants ? That
other birds of high flight are sometimes of a dull color,
may be explained, perhaps, by the counteracting influ
ences of peculiar habits of life.
From the paramo of Chimborazo the traveller looks
down upon the plateau of Quito, which, at this point, is
about twenty miles in width. To the right lies the re
nowned city of Riobamba, in the midst of an apparently
Avell-cultivated plain. A dreary ride over a dreary moor
land, gradually descending, and we turned into the court
yard of the tambo of Chuquipoyo. The prospects afforded
by the miserable mud hovel were cheerless; but it was
at least a comforting reflection that the bleak pass was
crossed, and we were over the Western Cordillera, al-

218 CEOSSING THE ANDES,
though Quito was yet distant one hundred miles up the
valley to the north. That was a memorable night passed
at the foot of icy Chimborazo. With the exception of a
single cane-arrangement, our room was destitute of sleep
ing-accommodations ; even the mud-projections were ab
sent, consequently we spread our beds upon the ground,
and, rolling in our blankets, endeavored to obtain a Uttle
of " Nature's sweet restorer," but the cold was too intense.
With the first indication of light we were up, wrapped in
our ponchos, and out reconnoitring our position. Dreary
was our upper world. Snow had fallen during the night
upon Chimborazo and the surrounding ranges, mantling
them far below the usual snow-line ; but the clouds were
noAV broken and driving Avith a Avintry aspect through the
heavens. The winds were bitterly cold, and our poor ani
mals, confined in the court-yard with only a low mud wall
for a protection, were trembling from their night's expos
ure, and seemed anxious to be mounted. Chimborazo,
free from clouds, towered majestically above us ; although
Ave stood at an elevation of over two miles, this colossus
of the Andes lifted itself more than nine thousand feet
above our tambo.
From Chuquipoyo, a ride of nine miles over a paramo,
clothed Avith heavy tufts of wiry grass called pajo, brought
us to Mocha, a sorry-looking town, the most miserable
of any passed upon our route. The low mud-huts, Avith
thatched roofs, were common habitation for pigs, poultry,
donkeys, and guinea-pigs, which, Avith half-naked Indian
children, strayed in and out of the opening that served as
a door. Breakfasting at a wretched hovel, which made
some pretensions as a casa posada, we prepared to re
mount, and then was enacted the soul-trying scene of
settUng accounts Avith our host. The Ecuadorians have
a most peculiar way of transacting such business. A bill
is generally made out for each article, and presented sepa-

A POSADA-SCENE. 219
rately. Upon this occasion, however, a bill of six reals
Avas handed us, accompanied with the assurance that it was
'¦'¦por todas cosas " (for every thing). Congratulating our
selves that we had at last found one of sufficient tact and
enterprise to make one job of breakfast-charges, we quickly
cancelled the indebtedness. But scarcely did we feel our
selves in our saddles before cuatro reales mas (four reals
more) was demanded for the breakfast of our arrieros.
Expostulation was useless, and the bill was paid only to
be followed by another of two reals for yerba fed the ani
mals. Protest of course we did, till our by no means su
perfluous stock of Spanish expletives was completely ex
hausted ; and then we made another drain upon our pock
ets ; after which we were informed that the two reals only
paid for the yerba given the bestias de silla (saddle-ani
mals), and that a Uke amount was due for the bestias de
carga (pack-animals). Having paid for ithe damages done
by the cargo-beasts, we put spurs to our mules, thinking
to be conscientiously absolved from further payments, for
the very good reason that we should hear of no more
bills being presented. But we were arrested by the shouts
of our arriero, our host having laid violent hands upon
the gun, which had been committed to his charge, an
nouncing his intention to retain it as payment for the ser
vices of the Indian who had brought the yerba. The last
instalment which we made toward the discharge of the
debt contracted that morning for breakfast was to redeem
our favorite rifle from the hands of the insatiable posadero.
Besides the pecuUarities of posaderos, there is another
annoyance to which the traveller is here subjected. This
is the curiosity of Spaniards, all laudable enough in itself,
only objectionable in the means adopted for its gratifica
tion. We are indebted to our friend and fellow-traveller,
Bushnell, for the following : " It is an old saying that the
more people know the more they want to know, and that

220 CEOSSING THE ANDES.
the more intelligent they become the more curious they
are. The first statement is undoubtedly true, but one's
faith in the latter is certainly shaken, after having travelled
for a time among the ignorant class of Spaniards. No
people can be mOre curious for curiosity's sake than are
these. If a traveller stop at one of their houses, they
commence at once by asking, ' Whence do you come,
where are you going, what is your business, how long
will you remain in the country, when Avill you come to see
me again ? ' After this introduction, they pass to more
personal matters, and desire to know your name, whether
you are married, and, if so, your Avife's name, whether you
have any children, if boys or girls, and then- names,
whether you have any brothers and sisters, and what their
names are, whether they are married, and, if so, their
partners' names, whether their parents be Uving, and, if
so, what their names are. If not manied, they want to
know if you are in love, if the young lady is pretty, the
color of her eyes and hair, what her name is, and the
name of her parents. Nor does their curiosity become
satisfied when all these questions are satisfactorily an
swered, for they immediately begin upon another strain,
viz. : ' Do they use horses in your country ? ' ' Are there
any hens there, and do they lay eggs as ours do ? ' ' Are the
people of your country white or black ? ' ' Do they drink
coffee ? ' ' Do they have any schools there ? ' ' What is
the religion ? ' ' What is your religion ? ' ' Are there any
cities in your country ? ' ' Do the people speak Spanish ? '
Thus they pass through the whole category of questions
that the mind, memory, and imagination, can devise. Even
the servants and muleteers have the audacity to question
a traveller upon such matters, and think themselves
greatly insulted if every query is not fully and respect
fully answered."
From Mocha our trail descended gently, and, as we

AMBATO. 221
escaped the chilling influences of Chimborazo, cultivation
gradually appeared. Unexpectedly the beautiful city of
Ambato burst into view, lying in a deep, canon-like valley ;
an abrupt descent, and we were within the town. It was
inspiring to hear the clatter of our animals' hoofs upon a
well-paved street. The houses are substantially built,
with mud-walls four to five feet in thickness, and but one
story in height, in order to better withstand the terremotos,
or earthquakes. Its climate is a little milder than that
of Quito, and it is a place of frequent resort during the
season of fruits, for which the Ambato valley is justly
celebrated. Its population is eight thousand. The even
ing of our arrival being unusually clear, just as the sun
was disappearing, we clambered up out of the ravine, an
ticipating a view of Cotapaxi, which we were now ap
proaching. Our anticipations were more than reaUzed.
Around us stood three of the grandest peaks of the Andes,
divested of the heavy clouds which for several days had
hung darkly about the summit of the CordiUeras. To the
south Chimborazo towered heavenward ; the light clouds,
which lay in white bars across its breast, sullying its
whiter robe of snow, Avhich fell far down its sides ; east-
wardly the beautiful volcanic peak of Tunguragua broke
the uniformity of the eastem wall of the plateau ; while,
farther to the north, Cotopaxi raised the most perfect
cone in the world, its summit mantled with snow. The
light smoke-wreaths curling innocently about its crater
was all that told of the deeply-hidden forces which so
often shake the Andes from base to summit. We sat long,
watching the changing hues of the mountains, as the sun,
that had just hidden itself behind the Western Cordillera,
colored them with a rich crimson, which slowly faded to
a ghostly white. The whole scene was one of that ma
jestic repose so characteristic of the landscape of these
mountain-hemmed plains. Grandly those mountains lifted

222 CROSSING THE ANDES,
their snowy altars about us — we felt it to be the hour and
place for reverent Avorship. Just then we observed sev
eral-groups, slowly making their Avay up the steep path
which wound from the town, to render their evening de
votions before the crucifix planted upon the brow of the
hill, and around which a small number were already gath
ered in the attitude of prayer. There was something
pleasing in that vesper service. We thought it a fitting
scene of the closing day, enacted there before Nature's
own altars, with the glories of that mountain-temple stUl-
ing the soul in adoring wonder and reA'erence.
We spent the Sabbath in Ambato. This is the great
market-day of the week. Our observations confirmed the
remark of a friend at Guayaquil, that the Sabbath never
found its way across the isthmus. There is a deplorable
lack of veneration for the day throughout Spanish Amer
ica. Early in the morning, the Indians of the country
surrounding Ambato come pouring into the city with
fruits and produce of every variety ; the women carrying
the burdens upon their backs with their infants perched
on top, while their lords trot along empty-handed. By
ten o'clook the plaza, or pubUc square, is packed Avith a
motley throng, and presents a busy scene during the re
mainder of the day. Next to the plaza, the Uttle stream
that runs through the town presents the most unique and
animated scene. Its banks for a long distance are fiecked
with drying garments, whUe at the bowlders in the stream
stand the Indian washer- women, using the rough stones as
scrubbing-boards. Having no Unen in "the wash," we
looked on unmoved as the stout, swarthy senoras rubbed
the clothes upon the rocks, whipped them about the bowl
ders, or pounded them Avith the smaller stones.
A few clays' rest at Ambato, and we again resumed
our journey. We A^-ere necessitated to make easy stages,
as the sudden change from the tierra caliente to the high

BY EASY STAGES. 223
table-lands, combined with the severe ride over the Cor
dillera, while stUl weak from the effects of fever experi
enced at Guayaquil, had completely exhausted Colonel
Staunton, who, unable longer to endure the fatigue of
riding, was carried in a litter borne upon the shoulders of
four Indians. Our cholo * guide made use of the authority
of his position, to impress into the service of bearing the
litter any Indians whom we happened to meet. He had
mounted the colonel's horse, and possessed himself of his
gun, and, thus equipped, rode about Avith an air of the
gravest dignity. Observing an Indian in the distance, he
would put spurs to his horse, and, displaying his weapon,
would soon come up to and order the man to the relief of
one of the bearers. Some of the Indians, doubtless mis
taking him for a recruiting-officer — ^for thus they recruit
in Ecuador — often led him in a hot pursuit across the
plain. After one had accompanied us a few mUes, we
Avould reward him with a calabash of chicha, the Indian's
national beverage, when, doffing the remnants of a wool
hat, he would say, with a low bow, " Muchas gracias, se
iiores," and go on his way rejoicing.
Our road led across a barren plain, the dreary region
over which reigns the restless Cotopaxi. All day long we
rode slowly over this arid waste, .drooping listlessly in our
saddles, our faces veiled to protect them from the glare
of the scorise-streAvn plain. The only sound that arrested
the ear was the foot-fall of the Indians, who bore the Ut
ter Avith slow, measured tread before us. The desert as
pect of the plain was occasionally reUeved by straggling
aloes and cactuses, that seemed to find a congenial home
in the burning sands. Condensed in their solid rosettes
of thickened leaves or columnar shafts, they flourish dur
ing seasons of protracted drought, when other plants be-
* Cholos are the offspring of whites and Indians. In most of them
the Indian element largely predominates,
11

224 CROSSING THE ANDES,
come withered and scorched through rapid evapora
tion. The aloe, as we have remarked, furnishes an ad
mirable substitute to the native for needle and thread.
One day our blanket unfortunately became unrolled, and
fell beneath our mule, which very carelessly put his foot
through it, making a serious rent. We deplored the acci
dent the more because the hole would just correspond
with the slit in our poncho when both were Avrapped
about us at night. But one of our Indians, stepping to
an aloe, broke off a spine, draAving out the attached thread,
and then sat down and quickly repaired the damage.
While passing up the vaUey, we were, at times, the
recipients of Indian hospitality. We never had a greater
effort made to contribute to our comfort than at one of
their huts, where we chanced while suffering from an at
tack of the fever, which stUl clung to us. A bed was im
mediately provided, which, although only a blanket spread
upon the ground, with a piece of pumice-stone for a pillow,
was still their best. A fire was kindled, but, the fuel be
ing ill-cured grass, it imparted little heat, but puffed out
clouds of smoke, until we were almost suffocated. Then
an attempt was made to administer, for our fever, a cala
bash of fiery aguardiente. Afterward soup, the constitu
ents of which we could never divine, was furnished ; and
sympathetically the dishevelled Indian and her little naked
ones stood by while Ave were partaking. It was kind in
them, but we confess that their proximity to om- soup Avas
any thing but appetizing. We sm-vived their kindness,
and have often since recalled, Avith gratitude, alike their
good intentions and our escape.
The second day from Ambato we reached Latacunga,
a town of fifteen thousand inhabitants, situated fifteen
miles south of Cotopaxi. Half the city Ues piled in ruins
by the terrible earthquakes which have frequently visited
it. Pumice-stone, tossed out by Cotopaxi, forms the prin-

GLIMPSE OF QUITO. 225
cipal building-material. This rock is also obtained from
a quarry two leagues distaiit from the town. The quar
ried stone is of a more fibrous, silky nature than the frag
ments ejected by the volcano, and its color is of a bluish
gray. Leaving this city, our road gradually ascends,
until we find ourselves upon the bleak ridge of Chisinchi,
a transverse range which Ues across the plateau, separating
the waters of the Pastassa and Esmeraldas. The latter
flows northward about fifty miles, and then, breaking
through the Western Cordillera, leaps down to the Pa
cific ; the former runs an equal distance south down the
valley, then bursts the Eastern Cordillera and hurries
doAvn the slope of the Andes to the Amazons. Descend
ing from Chisinchi, the aspect of the country suddenly
changes, and the beautiful vale which we enter the fourth
day fi-om Ambato, gradually spreads out into magnificent
plains, where the yellow glow of ripening fields, contrasted
with the deep green of growing grain, gives CAddence of
a perpetual spring. These are the plains of Turubamba ;
and our arrieros, pointing up the plateau, tell us that a
few leagues more will bring us in sight of the city of
Quito. Late in the aftemoon of the 29th of August we gained a
gentle rise, which allowed the eye an extensive sweep up
the valley. Upon the left of the plain before us rose Pane-
cillo, a dome-shaped hill, symmetrical as though formed
by art, and joined to the Western Cordillera. From be
hind this HU stretched out toward the east a long, broken
line of white walls — the outskirts of Quito. Already
Pichincha was throwing its deep shadows over the plain,
and hastening forward we were soon passing rapidly
through the streets ofthe capital, and shortly entered the
court-yard of the Casa Francesa, where, in the warm wel
come from the members of our party who had preceded
us, we forgot all the Aveariness of our journey over the
Andes.

CHAPTER XVI.

QUITO.

Situation of the Capital,— Delightful Climate,— History of the City.—
Modern Quito,— Houses,— Plazas,— Traces of Earthquakes,— Popula
tion, — Results of Amalgamation,— No Progress. — Religion,— Future
of the City, — ^Hacienda of Chillo,
Ceossed by the equator, and fenced round by lofty,
snow-clad mountains, lies the beautiful valley of Quito.
It is over two hundred mUes in length, and twenty to
thirty in breadth. The scenery of that mountain-walled
valley is of unrivalled grandeur. Three degrees south of
the equatorial line the Andes divide into two cordiUeras,
which, running parallel to each other untU again united
north of the equator by the mountain-knot of Los Pastes,
encircle those lofty table-lands. Set round upon those
trachytic walls are the noblest peaks of the Andes, which,
wrapped in their shrouds of eternal white, standing against '
the horizon, seem in their majestic repose to be the faith
ful guardians of the once favorite home of the Incas.
Here, fifteen miles south of the equator, close under the
shadow of the Western CordUlera, and resting partly upon
the flank of the volcano Pichincha, lies the far-famed city
of Quito. Its altitude is nine thousand five hundred and
forty feet ; just three thousand two hundred and fifty feet
nigher than the summit of Mount Washington. Upon
the north and south are unfolded the plains of Anaquito

DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. 227
and Turubamba, the most fertile of any embraced by the
plateaux of the Andes. Above is spread a deep, soft sky,
shedding the influences of an everlasting spring. In the
climate of Quito we observe a fine illustration of the fact
that meteorological phenomena are determined not less
by elevation and relation to mountain-ranges than by
position in latitude. Considerable portions of so-caUed
tropical America do not enjoy, or rather suffer, a tropical
climate. The lofty cordiUeras of the Andes, culminating
in height near the southern line of the tropics, with their
broad, elevated table-lands, carry a temperate, and, in iso
lated instances, a frigid climate to those intertropical re
gions. Thus western equatorial America is as truly tem
perate, as tropical. The mean annual temperature of
Quito is fifty-nine degrees ; you here never feel the incon
venience of heat or cold. The entire variation during the
year is only twenty-five degrees, while in our Northern
States it is over one hundred and thirty. Under this
equable and salubrious climate epidemic diseases are al
most unknown ; cholera, yellow fever, and consumption,
never find their way into these elevated valleys. In re
spect to scenery and climate. Nature has done much for
the city of Quito. But man has done his part less well.
He has defaced this spot Avith a city so devoid of beauty,
so filled Avith filth and guilt, that, should Pichincha bury
the whole beneath its lavie floods, we would have no
trouble in interpreting the providence. Let us review
hurriedly the history of Quito, and then speak briefly of
the present city and the character of Quitonians.
Quito has been the proud capital of four successive
civilizations. Centuries ago, almost beyond the reach of
tradition, it was founded by the Quitus race. Five hundred
years before the Spanish invasion, the Carans, who as
cended the western slope of the Andes, by way of the
Esmeraldas, conquered the Quitus nation, and established

228 QUITO.
in the valley the dynasty of the Soyris.* Temples and
palaces of barbaric splendor, and ambitious tolas, f or
tombs, rose throughout the valley. Second only to the
civUization of the Incas was this early one of the Carans.
They were famiUar with implements of bronze, and pos
sessed some knowledge of astronomy. The sun, as Avith
the Incas, was the central object of their worship. But,
while the mountain-peaks which stand about the plains of
Quito were witnessing the high civUization of the Scyris,
there was springing up in the highlands of Lake Titicaca
an indigenous civilization which nowhere found a paral
lel among the primitive nations of America, except upon
the table-lands of Mexico, and which was speedily to ab
sorb the Quitonian kingdom.
The great Inca empire had its origin about the year
1100, four hundred years before the Spanish conquest.
An island in the mountain-girdled lake of Titicaca, where
tradition says Manco Capac and Mama Oella, his sister
and wife, " Children of the Sun," first appeared, is to-day
held sacred as the birthplace of the Inca kingdom. But
of the Empire of the Incas we need speak but briefly, for
the pen of Prescott has made all famUiar Avith their ro
mantic history. By conquest and the assimilating forces
of a wise and paternal polity, they soon extended their
kingdom to the domains of the Scyris. The Inca Tupac
Yupanqui, jealous of this rival kingdom, led his warriors
against the king of the Carans, and wrested from him the
southern portion of his dominions. Both kingdoms now
changed rulers. Cacha the Fifteenth came to the throne
of the Scyris in Quito. Huayna-Capac succeeded his
father, Tupac Yupanqui, in Cuzco. Cacha made an heroic
defence of his empire. Overpowered by numbers and
* The king of the Carans was called Scyri. The language cf this
race was the Quichua, the national tongue of the Incas.
f See " Four Years among Spanish-Americans," Eassaurek.

HISTORY OF THE CITY. 229
treachery, he was swept up the plains of Quito. Mocha,
Latacunga, and the capital, fell successively into the hands
of the victorious Inca. Upon the plains of Hatuntaqui,
in the province of Imbabura, the most northern part of
the Quito valley, was fought the terrible battle which
decided the fate of the Caran nation. " To the borla, the
emblem of Peruvian royalty, was added the emerald of
the Scyris." Quito now became one of the capitals of the
Inca empire. During the reign of Huayna-Capac, the
Peruvian kingdom attained its culminating point of gran
deur. It embraced the principal Indian tribes of the
plateaux of the Andes, and stretched for more than two
thousand miles along the Pacific coast, whUe claiming as
its subjects many of the tribes of the tropic interior. It
was by this Inca that many of those great works of in
ternal improvement, Avhose remains are still so magnifi
cent, were constructed. Quito was joined to Cuzco by that
royal road which swept the entire length of the kingdom.
" As prudent and highly politic," says Hassaurek, " as the
conduct of Huayna-Capac is generally reputed to have
been, so imprudent and impolitic was the division of the
empire on his death-bed, bequeathing his paternal domin
ions, Cuzco, to his first-bom, Huascar, .and to Atahuallpa,
the kingdom of Quito." From that unwise division may
be dated the fall of the Peruvian empire. Jealousies
speedily kindled into war, and for the first time Inca joined
battle Avith Inca. Huascar was taken prisoner in the
battle of Quipaypan, and Atahuallpa seized the entire
kingdom. Just at this moment, while the kingdom was convulsed
by these internal strifes, the western shore of the empire
was startled by the Spanish invaders. We need not tell
of the cruel crushing of the Inca nation, the confinement
of Atahuallpa, the golden ransom, the perfidy of the con
querors, the sad fate of the last of the royal line of the

230 QUITO.
Incas, and the establishment of Spanish supremacy in
South America. Quito was one of the last cities to fall
into the hands of the invaders. After the death of Ata
huallpa, his chief Ruminagui collected the army, shat
tered in the battle of Quipaypan, and prepared for the
defence of the capital. Sebastian de Benalcazar, Avith
only a handful of Spanish soldiers, but having a strong
force of Indian allies, crossed the CordUleras, and, after a
series of fiercely-contested battles, arrived at Quito ; but
only to find it a heap of ruins. Ruminagui, removing the
treasures from the temples, had destroyed the city, and
retreated to the northern provinces of the valley. Through
this desperate act of the Indians, and the vandalism of the
Spanish iconoclasts, themselves baser devotees, as some
one has well said, of a baser idol than ever found a place
in the temples of the reUgion they warred against, not a
trace was left of the former magnificence of the city of
the Incas.* Thus fell Quito while enjoying a civUization
superior to that of Rome during the reign of the Tarquins;
equal to that of the Britons at the time of the Saxon in
vasion; Upon its ruins was founded, in 1534, the present
city. Its long, instructive colonial history we will pass in
silence. But a change at last came. Spain, by impoUtic
diplomacy, by arrogant assumption of colonial jurisdic
tion, at length forced her American colonies to revolu
tionary measures. During the war for independence,
Ecuador joined her fortunes with those of New Granada
and Venezuela, but shortly after the close of the struggle,
in 1829, this union Avas dissolved, and since that time Quito
has been the capital ofthe Rep'ublica del Ecuador. Revo
lutions, and rumors of revolutions, make up the history of
* " Of the ancient buildmgs of Quito no stone was left upon the other,
and deep excavations were made under them to search for hidden treas
ures." — (Hassaurek's "Four Years among Spanish Americans,")

MODERN QUITO. 231
the city under the regime of a republican government.
Varied has been its past ; unsatisfactory is its present ;
may the future bring it days equal to those when it was
caUed the " City of the Incas-! "
Quito, as we find it to-day, presents a melancholy con
trast to its former magnificence. The city lies upon the
projecting spurs of the volcano Pichincha, which rises out
of the Western CordUlera. The buildings, generally two
stories in height, are constructed of adobe, the walls being
two to three feet in thickness, as a precaution against earth
quakes. The upper windows are furnished Avith balconies,
and the roofs covered with tUes. In consequence of the
incombustible nature of the building-material, there are no
confiagrations. You could as easily fire a beavers' village
as the mud squares of Quito. Some of the houses en
close pleasant court-yards, around which run verandas
about ten feet in depth, and above these second gaUeries
of equal width, furnished with low balustrades. The
government buildings and churches are the only edifices
that make any architectural pretensions. The fagade of
the Jesuit church is the most elaborate work of art the
city affords, being constructed of the porphyritic rock of
Pichincha. One of the marked features of Quito, as of
all Spanish toAvns, is its plazas, or public squares. Of
these there are three, each being furnished Avith a stone
fountain which graces the centre. The Plaza Mayor was
formerly, as the remaining two, the Plaza de San Do
mingo and the Plaza de San Francisco, are at present,
destitute of trees ; but President Moreno converted it
into a park in order to unfit it as a place for bull-fights, or
rather bull-baitings. Quitonians now view this amuse
ment from the balconies of the San Francisco plaza. The
last-named square, with that of Santo Domingo, is used
as a market-place. Throughout the city are shattered
walls and unseemly piles of rubbish — ^traces of frequent

232 QUITO.
earthquakes. This was true at the time of our visit, and,
should we pass through the city now, we would find many
a ruin added by the late terrible earthquake of August
16, 1868, which entirely destroyed its sister cities, Ibarra,
Otovalo, and Atantaqui, situated in the northern prov
inces of the valley.
Quito contains a mixed Indian and Spanish population
of forty thousand ; the Negro element being scarcely rep
resented. This city, in the preservation of the aboriginal
inhabitants, presents, in common with most other Hispano-
American tovms, an anomaly in the history of coloniza
tion. In North America we Avitness the indigenous
population swept away before the tide of Anglo-Saxon
civiUzation ; in Australia and New Zealand the primitive
inhabitants are rapidly becoming extinct upon the advance
of Europeans; Southern Africa presents a repetition of
this same fact ; in the East-Indian Archipelago the natives
of many of the islands have been extirpated by the more
energetic Malay race ; in Van Diemen's Land the entire
population was swept from the island in less than thirty
years after its settlement by Europeans, a portion being
removed to save them from entire extinction.* In view
ing such facts as these, we are almost led to the adoption
of what has been termed the " Spencerian theory," and to
look for the future of mankind only in the " survival of
the fittest." But Hispano- America, as we have remarked,
presents an exception. There the native population was
spared, all barriers between the races were throAvn down,
and the way left open to unrestrained and unparalleled
amalgamation. The deterioration attending this com
mingling of Spanish and Indian races is painfully appar
ent. We observe a loss of intellectual force, a union of
the worst qualities of both, of which there is no lack in
either, and an elimination of all the essential elements of
* "Naturalist's Voyage round the World," Darwm.

RESULTS OF AMALGAMATION. 233
a broad and vigorous manhood. And such seem ever to
be the results of a blending of races. The objector may
point to the Anglo-Saxon, as an instance of a people of
acknowledged intellectual energy springing from an unex
ampled commingling. But we must draw a distinction
between what are popularly termed races and the varie
ties, or branches, of these. The blending of varieties of
the same race is always attended Avith elevatory results ;
and it was only in accordance with this law that the union
of the obstinate firmness of the native Briton with the
impulsive energy of the Teutonic tribes gave bu-th to
that mental strength characteristic of the Anglo-Saxon.
But the amalgamation of the races, as the Latin Avith the
Indian, or the Indian Avith the African, presents less satis
factory results. The labor and triumph of the race con
stituting the leading civilization of the world wUl be in
preserving and lifting to its OAvn level less favored ones,
while maintaining uncontaminated all its own inteUectual
expression and energy. How is this to be secured ? His
tory tells us that, in the presence of a strong people, a
weaker one will be crushed out in the strife for existence,
unless beneath the selfish shield of slavery, or preserved
by amalgamation. Recourse again to the first alternative,
in order to secure from extinction an inferior race in the
fierce struggle for life, can never be had ; when we speak
of the second, the experience of South- American civiliza
tion leads us to hesitate. Amalgamation, such as we ob
serve in almost every Hispano-American city, produces
equality; but chiefiy at the expense of the elevatory
power, by pulling down the higher, not by lifting the
lower.* This problem of the races presents a question as
interesting to the ethnologist as important to the philan-
* " The hybrid between white and Indian, called Mammeluco in Bra
zil, is pallid, effeminate, feeble, lazy, and rather obstinate ; though it
seems as if the Indian influence had only gone so far as to obliterate the

234 QUITO.
thropist. In seeking its solution, while claiming positively
equality of rights, let us be careful, in entering another
sphere, that we do not pass those lines that Nature has
drawn, and which she will not allow to be disregarded
with impunity.
Of the mixed population of Quito, about one-fifth con
stitutes what is termed the Avhite population, an evident
misnomer, as probably not a score of them could count
back two generations Avithout encountering an Indian;
and this fact their physiological characteristics do not fail
to reveal. This class form the upper circle of society, and
assume the affairs of state. The purely Indian element,
comprising about one-fourth of the inhabitants, is con
demned to manual labor. Cholos, or mestizos, descend
ants of Spaniards and Indians, make up by far the larger
portion of the population. They constitute the soldiers
and the business class of Quito, and, while superior to the
Indians, are as much inferior to those who comj)rise the
first and leading class.
In every thing, especially in ideas of progress and en
terprise, degenerate Quito is several centuries behind the
age. And how could we expect that it should be other
wise ? Offspring of imbecile and retrogressive Spain,
posted above the rest of the world almost two miles,
fenced in by mountains which only a mule or a llama can
scale, with the hereditary antipathy of its people to mod
ern innovations, affording a still more effectual barrier
than those mountain-walls to the introduction of modern
thought and improvement, what else could it do but fossil
ize ? As their fathers did, so do they. Fletcher, in his brU
liant " Brazil and the BraziUans," tells the following story,
which is so applicable to Quitonians, and Ulustrative of
Spaniards, that we cannot forbear repeating it : " Once
higher characteristics of the white, without imparting its own energies
to the ofispring. — (" A Journey in Brazil")

EELIGION, 235
upon a time, Adam requested leave to revisit this world ;
permission was granted, and an angel commissioned to
conduct him. On wings of love the patriarch hastened to
his native earth ; but, so changed, so Strange, all seemed
to him, that he nowhere felt at home, till he came to Port-
ugaL 'Ah, now,' exclaimed he, 'set me down; every
thing here is just as I left it.' " The sequel would have
been the same had the good angel taken him to Quito :
Adam would have had a longing to be set doAvn there at
once. The reUgion of Quito is an intolerant Catholicism.
The city is crowded with churches and conventual edifices,
where, under the garb of religious sanctity, is hidden a
mass of corruption, whose influence is felt throughout
every grade of society. Daily mass, carnivals, and pubUc
processions, constitute religion here. The fete-days are
legion, and often must the images of the Virgin and saints
be borne through the streets. We witnessed one espe
cially brilliant procession in honor of la 'Virgen Maria
del Rosario, the special patroness of the San Domingo
Church. The evening preceding the day for the ceremo
nies, the fa9ade and dome of the church were brilliantly
illuminated, and within, hundreds of wax-candles glistened
amid tinsel and drapery. About ten, upon the foUoAving
day, the plaza presented a gay appearance. From the
balconies hung flags, shawls, ponchos, and bed-quilts, of
every hue and size. Amid the jingling of bells, and
crackling of flreworks, the procession issued from the
church, preceded by the images of the saints, borne upon
the shoulders of Indians, impressed for the occasion.
FoUoAving the monks were the high officials of state, in
cluding the President, the mihtary bringing up the rear.
This subservience of the State to the Church is the curse"
of Ecuador ; the present ilUberal position of the govern
ment toward Protestants being maintained through the

236 QUITO.
influence of religious intolerance and bigotry. Having
occupied about two hours in passing around the plaza, the
saints, who doubtless enjoyed the airing, were borne into
the church in good time to escape a rising shower. Such
religious ceremonies as these are illustrative of Catholicism
as we find it in Quito, and, indeed, through a large portion
of South America. So supremely ignorant are the people,
so thoroughly indoctrinated in the superstitious teachings
of native and foreign priests, that any reformatory move
ments, leading to a religion less material and of higher
spiritual conceptions, must necessaiily be slow.
Of social life in Quito, of the customs and character
of its inhabitants, their vices and virtues, we wUl not
speak, as we have already dwelt upon these in our de
scription of Caracas, and life in one of these Spanish cap
itals is but a photographic picture of that in the other.
We must allude, however, to one cause, beyond its in
efficient population, which must ever tend to retard the
prosperity of the city. We can hardly predict for it the
glorious future which some foresee. Natm-e, although she
has done much for the city, has faUed to give it the one
thing needful — a stable soU. There must necessarily be a
stagnation of all enterprise, an ever-present discourage
ment to the entering upon any great public or architec
tural work, where, in every few decades at least, the move
ments of the earth pile the most labored of man's works
into ruins ; and, Avithout these, to give expression to a
people's progress, no advancement has ever heen rendered
permanent. Quito's isolation and earthquakes are balanced
against its delightful cUmate and magnificent views.
Distant from Quito about three hours' ride is the cele
brated Hacienda of Chillo, which must be noticed in con
nection with our hasty sketch of the capital. To reach it
Ave cross the Puengasi HUls, which border the city upon
the east, and then pass through the beautiful vallev of

HACIENDA OF CHILLO. 237
Chillo, one of those lovely little vales into which the
plateau is broken by the low transverse and longitudinal
ranges, between the two main cordiUeras. It is closed
upon the south by the rugged walls of Ruminagui, while
opening to the north into the vaUey of the Esmeraldas.
In the quiet and picturesque character of its scenery, it
is the rival of the valley of Chimbo, that lies upon the
western slope of the Andes. The Hacienda of Chillo was
established as a Jesuit mission station soon after the con
quest. The building has been often remodelled, but is stUl
undermined by old vaults and passages. Its architecture
is that of the sixteenth cent-ury ; corridors extend nearly
the entire length of the building, the walls being deco
rated with frescoed paintings of the Muses and various
designs. A vaulted entrance leads to the chapel, which
occupies the centre of the buUding. It is small, but suffi
ciently large to accommodate the Indians, about two
hundred in number, belonging to the hacienda. This
church contains Titian's beautiful painting, " The Cruci
fixion," which was brought here by the Jesuits, and has
been retained, notwithstanding several efforts that have
been made to remove it to Spain. During one of the late
revolutions in Ecuador, it was secreted in the vaults of
the hacienda, and suffered considerable injury from damp
ness. The surrounding grounds are tastefully laid out,
ornamented -by a lively fountain, and rendered fragrant
by lemon-trees, white with blossoms, while loaded with
mature fruit. During a recent earthquake, a tower and
clock occupying the centre of the building were thrown
down, and have not since been rebuilt. While upon our
excursions about the capital, we were often here enter
tained; and thus many of our most pleasant recollections
of the Quito valley are connected with this interesting
Hacienda of Chillo.

CHAPTER XVII.
MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OE QUITO.
Group.s of Volcanoes. — Quitonian Peaks. — What gives them their Inter
est. — Chimborazo. — ^Its Summit gained by M. Eemy. — Sangai, — Coto
paxi,— Ajitisana, — Pichincha, — Our Ascent. — Wild Scene from its
Summit, — Down its Crater. — A Thunder-storm within. — Climbing
out. — ^Lost upon the Volcano. — Return to Quito,
The volcanoes of the New World — unlike those of
the Old, which are generally placed upon the islands — are
situated upon the continental land, in connection with its
great mountain-axes; and, moreover, cm-iously disposed
in five great linear groups. Humboldt, in a geognostic and
geographic description of the volcanoes of the Americas,
designates these as the grouj) of Mexico, of Central
America, of New Granada and Quito, of Peru and Bo
livia, and of Chili.* More than ninety volcanoes are em
braced by these series, of which number forty-eight still
give evidence of activity. The distance between the most
northern in Mexico and the most southern in ChiU is al
most five thousand miles ; the greatest distance between
any two of the groups is found separating the clusters of
Quito from that of Bolivia, a stretch of nine hundred and
sixty miles. The volcanoes in each assemblage have a
linear meridional disposition ; those in Chili being set along
* See " Cosmos," vol, v., pp. 265, 283,

VOLCANIC GROUPS. 239
a stretch of one thousand miles, while those about Quito
are crowded upon a line of four hundred and seventy-two
miles. The group of Central America comprises the
greatest number, having twenty-nine volcanic peaks,
of which eighteen are still active. But Chili claims
the honor of having the highest mountain of the series,
Aconcagua, which rises 23,200 feet above the Pacific —
1,700 feet higher than Chimborazo, yet 6,000 feet below
the summit of the highest peak of the Himalayas. The
Peruvian and Bolivian group names the snowy peaks,
Gulateiri, Sahama, Sorata, and IlUmani, that look down
upon the loftiest table-lands of the New World — the
Plateau of Bolivia. Here is Lake Titicaca,* lifted up in
the air to a height twice as great as the elevation of
Mount Washington.
But the grandest of these groups is the one which cir
cles, with its snow-mantled peaks, the valley of Quito.
The volcanoes of this cluster are found between Sangai,
two degrees south of the equator, and the Vblcan de To-
lima, five degrees north, a distance, before stated, of four
hundred and seventy-two mUes. They are set in two
lines, along or near the axes of the two main cordiUeras,
into which the equatorial Andes are divided. Along the
Western Cordillera rise Caraguairazo, lUniza, Pichincha,
and Cotocachi ; while fronting them in long line stand,
upon the Eastern Cordillera, eight noble peaks, stretching
from the fiery Sangai upon the south, to the beautiful
peak of Imbabura upon the north. About the centre of
this row, advanced a little out upon the plain, stands
Cotopaxi, the most symmetrical of Andean volcanoes.
Grand did those mountains appear to us, as, having
¦* The elevation of this lake is 12,795 feet above the ocean-level. It
empties its waters by El Desaguadero into Lake Aullagas, which has no
outlet, its waters being removed by evaporation. Both these lakes, like
Lake Valencia, in Venezuela, are undergoing rapid deaiecation.

240 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OF QUITO.
crossed the western range from the Pacific, we journeyed
between them up the plateau. On either side, stretched
along the unbroken walls of the Eastem and Western
Cordilleras, and upon their crest, stood those ice-croAvned
peaks, which, kindled by the sunset, seemed Uke beacon-
fires set along the darkened battlements of the sierras.
Often have we watched the effect of the evening sun upon
the snow-fields of those lofty volcanoes. As the hght
wanes, the prismatic tints of the snoAvy peaks almost im
perceptibly blend Avith the roseate colorings ofthe clouds,
which form the background to the mountains. 'Tis au
arctic scene, painted with aU the rich hues of the tropics.
Rarely does Nature so blend the elements of beauty and
subUmity. The mountains about the valley t)f Quito are exceeded
in height by several of the ChiUan and Peruvian groups.
Chimborazo, of the Quitonian series, is surpassed by at
least four of those lofty peaks, if we may rely upon the
estimated elevation of those mountains, which is as yet
somewhat unsatisfactory. But the volcanoes of Quito
have a deeper interest attached to them than belongs to
their loftier rivals, on account of their associations with
the labors and triumphs of the most devoted heroes of
science. " Wherever intellectual tendencies prevail," re
flects Humboldt, " wherever a rich harvest of ideas has
been excited, leading to the advancement of several sci
ences at the same time, fame remains, as it were, locally
attached for a long time." Nature seems almost Avithout
expression, unless animated by human thought and achieve
ment. As eternal as are the moimtains of Quito, so en
during will be the names Humboldt, Condamine, Bouguer,
and Boussingault, whose indefatigable labors among the
equatorial Andes have made such valuable contributions
to physical science.
Of the twenty-two peaks of the Quitonian group,

CHIMBORAZO. 241
which push above the line of perpetual snow, but nine
teen are properly volcanoes, and the grandeur, even of
the larger number of these, consists not in the play of vol
canic forces, for sixteen of these have either become ex
tinct or dormant. For ages these have stood inactive ;
some Avith broken walls, others with their sides scarred
by dark streams of lava.* Of all the peaks, volcanic and
otherwise, that stand about the valley of Quito, Chimbo-
, razo is the grandest ; Cotopaxi (some, however, think Tun
guragua) is the most nearly perfect type of a volcanic cone ;
Antisana is peerless in beauty ; Sangai is the most active ;
and Pichincha, from its association with science, possesses,
perhaps, a greater interest than. any of the others. Let us
look at each of these.
Chimborazo, the most southern of the peaks of the
Western Cordillera, first claims our attention. It rises
21,422 feet above the Pacific. We have already spoken
of the impression produced Upon the mind by this moun
tain, when viewed from the western coast. Seen from that
stand-point, it appears like a truncated cone; from the
table-lands it presents an irregular outline. The moun
tain seems to have suffered terrible convulsions, and now
stands as a shattered dome, supported by gigantic but
tresses of trachytic rock. Chimborazo has been classed
by some as a volcano. But there are no traditions of its
activity, and, as Humboldt has observed, it presents none
of the distinctive characteristics of a volcano, and is des
titute of any crater-like opening. That careful observer
"I reckon as volcanoes, besides those which are

* In the Eastern Cordillera, almost opposite Chimborazo, stands the
beautiful volcano called Altar, the walls of whose crater have fallen in,
leaving portions still standing, so that the whole presents the appearance
of a ruined fortification. Although most of the volcanoes of the Andes
throw out during their eruptions only streams of water and mud, yet
we find four immense lava-streams upon the slopes of Antisana, and one
marks the sides of Tunguragua.

242 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OF QUITO.
still burning and active, th«se volcanic formations whose
old eruptions belong to historic times, or of which the
structure and eruptive masses (craters of elevation and
eruption, lavas, scoriae, pumice-stone, and obsidians) char
acterize them, without reference to any tradition, as volca
noes which have long been extinct. Unopened trachytic
cones and domes, or unopened long trachytic ridges, such
as Chimborazo and Iztaccihuatl, are excluded." * No
" banner of smoke," or thunder of volcanic fires, inspires,
our reverence for Chimborazo. Its massiveness, its dizzy
sweep of precipice, its heaven-piercing height, the storms
that break about its summit, do this. Words are power
less to convey any conception of the feelings of awe and
wonder inspired by the massive form and towering height
of that peerless mountain. Upon the top of our oAvn
Mount Washington place Etna, a mountain over ten
thousand feet in height, and upon that pile Vesuvius, and
you will still fall several hundred feet below the summit
of the giant of the Andes. Although standing beneath
the ardent sun of the equator, where tropical forests girdle
its base, over five thousand feet of its height are Avrapped
in the snows of an eternal Avinter. Wrote Colonel Staun
ton, the lamented artist of our expedition, after watching,
with all the enthusiasm of his nature, the first unveUing
to us of the Andes : " The clouds lifted just at sunset,
and permitted us one view of the hoary head of Chimbo-
* Prof. Orton, we observe, in his enumeration of the principal peaks
of the Ecuadorian Andes, classifies Chimborazo as a volcano. This dif
ference in classification may result from different views respecting the
distinctive characteristics of volcanic mountains. We cannot but regard,
however, as most nearly correct, that based upon the geologic structure
of the mountain, rather than that dependent upon accidental phenomena.
The rooks mentioned as found upon the flanks of Chimborazo are not ex
clusively volcanic products ; also the hot springs upon its north side
afford no evidence in favor of its being a volcano, for these are often
found far removed from volcanic mountains.

ITS SUMMIT GAINED BY M. EEMY. 243
razo ; but that is enough for a lifetime." It is a feeling
of reverence that one experiences, as he has unveiled to
him this Colossus of the Andes. By no other exhibition
of herself does Nature so overpower us with her greatness
and grandeur. Shortly after our return from our wander
ings among the Andes, we were privileged to visit the
Falls of Niagara. It was our first visit. We were disap
pointed. We viewed them from every stand-point : we
looked down from above ; we looked up from below ; we
watched them from the front ; we went behind the sheet
of water ; but the rush, and plunge, and roar of Niagara,
failed to inspire in us those feelings of sublimity that we
felt as we stood in the silent presence of the mighty
Chimborazo. Nature is never so grand, so awe-inspiring,
as in the aAvful repose of her giant mountains.
During early morning Chimborazo is generally free
from vapors ; but later, as the heated columns of air rise
from the plains, and come in contact with its icy sides, the
dome is quickly capped with clouds, swept and whirled
by the fi-igid currents which push doAvn the slopes of
the mountains. What an ^olus indeed it would be, had
it been placed in the Boreal regions, instead of under the
tropics ! Its crest has been reached but once by man ;
yet the condor, the "kingly bird of the Andes," often
soars, on balanced wings, far above its summit. Humboldt
and Bonpland attempted its ascent in 1802, but failed.
In 1831, Boussingault and Hall reached a point only
eighteen hundred feet below the summit, three hundred
feet higher than the elevation attained by Humboldt and
his companion ; but difiiculty of respiration, and the den
sity of the clouds, forced them back. But upon the third
of November, 1856, its summit was first reached by M.
Jules Remy and Mr. Brenckly. The view, however, was
entirely cut off by heavy clouds that enveloped the moun
tain. These travellers determined, by the boiling of water

244 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OF QUITO.
(at 171.5° F.), the height of the mountain to be 21,467
feet, forty more than obtained by the trigonometrical
measurement of Humboldt, made upon the high plain
of Tapia, near Riobamba, in 1803.
Situated in the Eastem CordiUera, a Uttle out of the
axis of the range, in a southeast direction from Chimbo
razo, is Sangai, the most terrible volcano in the world. It
is 17,120 feet in height, and, although in a state of con
stant activity, it is perpetually Avrapped in snow. It fre
quently sprinkles Avith ashes the forests of the Pacific
coast, and, during its eruptions, it makes its thunders to
be heard one hundred miles around.
Cotopaxi, whose position relative to the Eastern Cor
dillera has been given, is a peak Avith which Chimborazo
must share its honors. Its height is 18,880 feet; yet it
seems scarcely half that estimate. But we must not for
get that it stands upon elevated table-lands, the height of
which Vesuvius, piled upon Mount Washington, would fail
to measure. About three thousand feet of its summit are
covered with snow. Since 1742, there have been seven
eruptions of the volcano, aU of which have been accom
panied with ejected floods of water and mud, or by storms
of sand and ashes, which have devastated the surrounding
plains of Callao, Mulalu, and Latacunga. It has never
thrown out lava-streams. When in a state of rest, as at
present, only light smoke-clouds, at times almost imper
ceptible, float about its crater. These, with its occasional
deep mutterings, are the only indications of the slumber
ing forces beneath. When in actual eruption its explosions
can be heard at a distance of over five hundred miles, and
ashes, pumice-stone, and plutonic rocks, are hurled from
its crater and scattered over the plains for leagues around.
Rocks fifteen feet square have been tossed a distance of
nine miles. Until 1870, its crater was unseen by man.
During the summer of that year, a party of Spaniards

PICHINCHA. 245
scaled the mountain, and affirmed that they found seven
craters !
Going north from Cotopaxi, we come to the dome-
shaped Antisana, towering to a height of 19,137 feet, its
summit heavily capped with eternal snows. DoAvn its
deeply-furrowed sides run immense streams of lava, poured
from its crater long ages before the conquest ; we traced
one of these far doAvn into the wUd forest upon the east
ern slope of the Andes. The portion which is covered
with snow is beautifully rounded, so that in the sunset it
appears like a vast golden dome. Upon the fianks of
this volcano, 5,600 feet higher than the Hospitium of St.
Bernard, is situated the famous hacienda which bears the
name of the mountain.
In the Western Cordillera, rising abruptly from the
outskirts of the city of Quito, stands the interesting vol
cano Pichincha. Situated almost directly under the equa
tor, its elevation of nearly three miles (15,827 feet), which,
in a temperate climate, woidd render it a snow-crowned
mountain, here scarcely raises its summit above the line
of perpetual snow. Its eruptions, the last of which oc
curred in the year 1660, have always been attended Avith
much damage to the city of Quito, located as it is upon
its very base. It is a mountain not without an historical
interest; for on its elevated slopes was fought, in 1819,
the celebrated battle of Pichincha, by the republicans,
under Simon Bolivar, against the Spaniards, at an altitude
of 10,800 feet ; probably the greatest height at which any
battle was ever fought.
An intense longing to have a peep into the crater of
this volcano led us, while at Quito, to mature plans for a
trip to its summit. Ascending by a gentle grade the side
of the mountain, we soon left far below us the fine and
well-cultivated plateau of Quito ; its undulating plains,
spreading out more than forty miles in breadth, broken by

246 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OF QUITO.
mountain-spurs and isolated ranges. Situated in a pleas
ant valley through which we passed, is the Indian town
of Lloa, comprised of mud-huts, thatched with long grass.
From here a short ride brought us to the Hacienda of
Lloa, formerly a Jesuit mission-station, where we stopped
for the night, intending to take an early start the foUow
ing morning for the crater. The buUding has an anti
quated appearance, with its old archways, tiled roof, and
environs of crumbling walls, overrun Avith vines. We were
in the very heart of the Andes ; yet, despite the wildness,
the evening scenery possessed an unusual asj)ect of repose
and beauty. The clouds which had hung about the sum
mit of the volcano during the day broke away just at
sunset, and the golden hue imparted to the mountain-
ridges contrasted beautifully with the deep green of inter
vening valleys and forests.
Some time before the light indicated the approach of
morning, we were astir ; for, in order to obtain a good
view of the crater, it should be reached by sumise, before
obscured by rising mist. Subjected to considerable delay
in procuring a guide wUUng to accompany us into the
crater, it was late before we were mounted. Once started,
we ascended rapidly by a forest trail. A short ascent
through this zone of tree-vegetation brought us upon a
paramo, or moorland, which sweeps up to within a few
hundred feet of the scoriae-covered summit of the volcano.
From this point the view was grand. We were above
the clouds, through which rents torn here and there
Avould allow us a glimpse of the valley of Quito, far be
low. The volcanoes of the Andes stood out like islands
from the clouds that concealed their bases. Cotopaxi
never appeared more grand than standing, as it did, with
its cone raised more than a mile above the clouds, with
light columns of smoke issuing from its crater. Antisana
and Sincholagua, with several other snow-crowned moun-

EDGE OF THE CRATER. 247
tains, appeared half immersed in the clouds, which were
now rolling up the sides of Pichincha, threatening to de
stroy our view of the crater. Apprehending this, we
spurred on our horses as rapidly as possible, being obliged
to ascend the sides of the mountain in a zigzag course.
The effect of the rarefied atmosphere was very apparent
upon our animals, which breathed with great difficulty.
Arriving Avithin a short distance of the summit, we were
obliged to dismount, the sides groAving very precipitous,
and covered with ashes and scorise, which afforded only a
treacherous footing. Securing our horses to some rock-
masses, that had been arrested in their fall by a transversal
depression in the slope of the mountain, we commenced
to ascend on foot. Light snow a few inches in depth cov
ered the d'ebris, rendering our progress exceedingly toil
some ; so that we could mount but a few yards, when,
breathless, we would sink upon the snow. Half an hour
was thus consumed in reaching the summit ; when, ex
hausted with the ascent, we threw ourselves upon the edge
of the crater, and gazed over into the frightful opening,
which appears about a mile in diameter, and, according to
barometrical observation, is over twenty-five hundred
feet in depth, its precipitous walls rising, in some places,
almost perpendicularly from the bottom. From the deep,
sulphur-incrusted crevices rolled slowly up heavy columns
of steam and smoke. It was a scene of the Avildest and
most awful grandeur. The clouds below cut us off from
the world beneath, and we were standing upon a fiery
island, an ilUmitable sea rolling away on every side, its
expanse relieved only by the ice-crowned summits of the
volcanoes, which pierced its surface like vast icebergs, rend
ering the whole a most dismal arctic scene. Cotopaxi, with
its smoke-clouds, was the Erebus amid the drear desola
tion of ice, and cloud, and smoke. The easterly trade-
winds swept over the mountain, but Avith little momentum ;
12

248 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VAILEY OF QUITO.
for at the top of Pichincha the air is only about one-half
(0.568) as heavy as at the sea, consequently the force of
the Avinds is proportionally less. Occasionally we would
be startled by the dull, heavy rumbling of the rocks, which,
loosened from the sides of the crater, plunged with fearful
leaps into the gulf below.
We had determined to reach, if possible, the bottom
of the crater, and, after resting a few moments upon the
edge, we commenced the descent. TAvice beforewe had
attempted it, but failed. The first attempt was made hy
Prof. Orton and an assistant, but, after reaching a point
several hundred feet below the summit, they were stopped
by a sudden precipice, which rendered farther progress
impossible. The second was made by BushneU and the
writer; we had scarcely commenced the descent, when
heavy clouds closed round the mountain, filUng the crater,
and rendering objects invisible at a distance of a few feet,
thus making the attempt utterly impracticable. Om- third
united attempt proved more successful. We entered the
crater upon the southeastern side, and, foUoAving our In
dian guide, scrambled down the steep cliffs, shrinking
close to the rocky walls, as we saw the stones loosened,
plunging over precipices, setting others free, until a per
fect avalanche rushed and thundered down a thousand feet
beloAV us. At times, a chasm or precipice would confront
us, and we were obliged to drop and receive one another
from ledge to ledge. Our hands became so benumbed,
from clinging to the icy rocks, that they were of little ser
vice, and our footing was so slippery that often it would
give way, causing a momentary thrill, as we shrank
closer to the cUff. Thinking only of reaching the bottom,
the thought how we were to scale these precipices again
scarcely occurred to us. In several instances, those in ad'
vance narrowly escaped the rocks loosened by those behind.
At last we reached the talus, or steep slope of d'ebris at

IN THE CRATER, 249
the foot of the cliff. Down this we hurried, half sliding,
till, breathless with excitement and our exertions, avo stood
upon the bottom. This consisted of a plain about seven
hundred yards in diameter, piled round the edges Avith the
rocks broken from the cUffs, which towered up half a mile
on every side, except upon the west, where there was a
deep depression, or gorge. Varying a trifle from the
centre of the plain, Avas a little hUl, about two hundred
feet in height, broken by deep fissures, incrusted Avith sul
phur, deposited from the vapory exhalations which rise
from the openings. We found a few plants scattered over
the bottom of the crater, which served in a measure to
relieve the chaotic, life-forsaken aspect of that rock-walled
caldron.* Within those amphitheatral walls Nature enacts, with
out a spectator, her grandest and most thriUing scenes. It
was indeed a strangely Avild and chaotic scene, when the
rain, that had been threatening, broke over our heads in a
fearful storm of thunder and hail. Heavy clouds drifted
over the edge of the crater, and, settUng within, shut out
the sun and hid from view the upper portion of the sur
rounding walls. We were seated upon some rocks, par
taking of our breakfast, which consisted of bread, steamed
over the fissures exhaling vapors heated almost to the
boiling-point, when a Ioav growl of thunder, and the deep
rumbUng of loosened rocks, told us that a fearful storm
was gathering round the volcano. The rain and hail
forced us to the shelter of some shelving ledges. The
storm increased ; the thunders groAving louder and rolling
heavily along the cliffs, while the rocks were constantly
* The following is a Ust of plants found within the crater ; several
of these species were also observed growing without, just at the base of
the scoria-cone : I/usuta Peruviana, Valeriana plantagina, V. Bonplandi-
ana, Calcetium longifolium, Diplostephium rupestre, Senecio ericafolius,
Pcrnettya parifolia, also a species of Festuca, and Lupinus,

250 MOUNTAINS ABOUT THE VALLEY OF QUITO.
crashing from the walls, which swept up in dark, unbroken
precipices more than twenty-five hundred feet above us.
The winds hurled the clouds within in eddying masses, or
drove them fiercely over our heads across the crater. The
ground, filled with vents, emitting hot, suffocating vapors,
appeared ready to give way beneath us. It seemed as if
Pluto and all the infernal gods had conspired to punish
our intrusion on their domains. We may forget the cir
cumstances attendant on many a hurried lunch, whUe for
cing our way through tangled forests, or whUe upon lonely
rivers, but always vivid avUI be our recollections of the
little party, and each incident connected Avith the meal
spread upon the plutonic rocks within the crater of Pi
chincha. We remained within the crater about an hour, securing
some interesting mineralogical specimens, and also obtain
ing representatives of the pecuUar species of plants that
we found groAving at the bottom, and then commenced
climbing out. The ascent was extremely toUsome ; for,
while it had been raining at the bottom, snow had been
falUng above to a considerable depth, and this rendered
our footing doubly insecure. The rarefaction of the at
mosphere also caused almost complete exhaustion to fol
low our exertions. Up we climbed, slowly mounting, at
times, by the assistance of our guide. Gaining a ledge
where we might rest, we would throw ourselves doAvn
almost in despair of reaching the summit. At length,
after three hours of hard climbing, we once more stood
safely upon the rim of the crater, and, as we looked back
into the abyss whence we had escaped, we gave joyful
expression to our gratitude by singing the good old dox
ology : " Praise God from whom all blessings flow.
Praise Him all creatures here below.
Praise Him above, ye heavenly host,
Praise Father, Son, and Holy Ghost,"

LOSING THE TRAIL, 251
As the cliffs sent back the words, we felt a thrill never
caused by the same echo, so often Ustened to before, when
thrown from the walls of a temple of man's own rearing.
If any one can stand upon that aAvful altar and watch the
incense-clouds of smoke as they ever pour toward the
heavens ; feel the rush of the winds, as, unbroken by any
obstacle, they hurry almost noiselessly past ; look round
upon the scarred ramparts of the amphitheatral walls ;
listen to the falling rocks, as they tell of the ruin of the
mountain by the lapse of time ; permit the eye to drop
three miles down the terraced slope of the Andes toward
the Pacific, or to range eastward across the valley of Quito
to the great Cordillera that piles itself all along the hori
zon ; and watch the play of the Ught upon the ice-mantled
peaks of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Antisana, Cayambi, and
Cotocachi — if any one can stand surrounded by such an
exhibition of Andean grandeur, and not feel a deeper rev
erence for Nature and her great Architect, then she has,
for him, no scene to fire the soul with inspirations of awe
and homage.
From the summit of the mountain we descended the
cone to where we had left our horses, brushed from our
saddles the snow that had fallen during our absence in
the crater, and set out upon our return. Night overtook
us while bewildered in the forest that covers the basal
portion of the volcano. Having lost our trail, we wan
dered several hours in hopes of extricating ourselves ; but
Avere obliged to pass a wearisome night upon the slope of
the mountain. The following morning discovered to us
the lost trail, which soon brought us upon the plateau,
and shortly after we passed under the old arched gateway,
and were once more in Quito.

CHAPTER XVIII.
OVEE THE EASTEEK COEDILLEEA.
Amazonian Forest, — Preparations for our Journey. — Our Artist's Grave-
Religious Intolerance, — Across the Valley. — Mimosas.— Hacienda of
Ituloachi. — Tablon. — Sunset among the Andes. — The Home of the
Incas. — Indigenous Civilizations. — Condors. — Over the Crest.— View
ofthe Amazonian Valley.— First Waters ofthe Great River,— Andean
Road. — Reception at Papallacta. — Indian Burial. — Arrangements for
our March to the Napo.
RestiiS'g high upon the eastern slope of the Andes,
lies the flank of the great forest which throws its dense
shade over the larger portion of the Amazonian Valley.
From the Andes it stretches two thousand miles eastward
to the Atlantic, and from the Llanos of Venezuela upon
the north sweeps southward, without a break, to the Pam
pas of Buenos Ayres. The depths of that primeval forest
have, for ages, been known only as the home of warring
tribes of Avild Indians ; the hum of civilization has scarcely
approached its borders, and to-day its deepest solitudes
are unbroken save by the never-ceasing rush of its hurry
ing rivers. So impenetrable is that tropical forest, that
the interior of South America would have been forever
closed against man, were it not for the paths ploughed by
powerful riAi-ers through its tangled mazes. A hundred
streams, leaping down from the Andes, tear open passages
all along the western front of the foi-est, and then join

PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY. 253
their waters to swell the Great River, which ploughs a
broad pathway for over three thousand miles through the
very heart of the Avilderness.
After spending two months in the valley of Quito, we
commenced preparations for our journey down the eastern
slope of the Andes, through this forest to the Atlantic.
Our intended route was the same as that pursued in 1541,
by Francisco de Orellana, the treacherous deserter of
Gongalo Pizarro, the brother of the conqueror of Peru,
in his journey of unparalleled suffering, through the wil
derness, in search of " El Dorado." He found not the
" Gilded King," but discovered what was of inflnitely
more value to the world — the j^mazons.* Knowing that
all suppUes of provisions might be withheld by the In
dians, we were obUged to take fi-om Quito sufficient to
last us untU our arrival at one of the frontier BrazUian
towns upon the Amazons — a distance of one thousand
miles through an unbroken forest. The traveller in those
wilds must place but little dependence upon his rifle for
food. The fact that where the vegetable kingdom is over-
luxuriant the animal is subordinated, is there fully illus
trated ; even the natives, with all their skill, secure only
a precarious subsistence. Monkeys and jaguars are there ;
but you will probably only hear the howl of the latter,
and catch unsatisfactory glimpses of the former, trooping
gallantly and safely through the tops of the forests one
hundred feet overhead. Moreover, all Ecuadorians were
in bUssful ignorance of that portion of their country.
There was, indeed, in Quito, one delineation ofthe Orien
tal portions of Ecuador, by Dr. Villavicencio ; but, Uke
Mark Twain's maps, it had been gotten up with more
reference to picturesqueness than geographical accuracy.
* The mouth of the Amazons was discovered as early as 1500, by
Vincente Yaiiez Pinzon ; but Orellana was the first to navigate its waters,
and to make known to the world the grand proportions of the river.

254 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
No reliable information could be obtained concerning the
obstacles we might encounter, or estimate made of the
time which would be consumed in penetrating the forest.
This uncertainty also constrained us to see that our sup
ply was sufficiently large to meet any emergency.
Our provisions being obtained, and carefuUy secured
in sealed cans, to preserve them from the excessive hu
midity of the forest, the next difficulty was respectmg
means of transportation. Indian arrieros and peons with
out number are always ready for a trip down the occi
dental slope of the Andes ; but an excursion down the
opposite side is what few of them care to undertake. To
secure carriers we were obliged to send among the tribes
inhabiting those regions. The curate, who possessed ec
clesiastical jurisdiction over the Indians of the interior,
was the only person through whom we could negotiate
with them. After several weeks' delay, every thing was
arranged, and just one day before the close of October we
Avere assured positively, for the last time, that manana,
horses and guides, from Papallacta, a Uttle Indian viUage
upon the eastern slope of the j^des, just at the com
mencement of tree-vegetation, would arrive at Quito to
take us to the former place, where, discarding our horses,
we were to reorganize our train for the march through
the forest to the Rio Napo, one of the northern affiuents
of the Amazons.
Upon the appointed morning the cavalcade — over a
dozen animals — accompanied by tAvice the number of un
couth Indians, came clattering into the court-yard of the
Casa Frances. From the miagled herd five of the best
beasts were selected for our party, and the best again from
this chosen number for the heaviest member of our com
pany, who even then had little occasion to feel proud of
his Tartar. The others were by no means imposing in
apiicarance, or superbly decked, but were plainly capari-

f h''!iiiii,iiif|/

il J iiiiiil

't')m>:^

lip i fc

'If I n

OUR ARTIST'S GRAVE. 255
soned Avith cow-hide bridles and curious saddles Avith huge
wooden stirrups. Having started our baggage in advance,
each stepped astride his Bucephalus, bowed low as he
passed under the archway leading from the court-yard,
and we were galloping through the streets of the capital.
Quitonians gazed in mute astonishment upon what they
had seen but once before, an expedition bound for the
Oriente. Many were the prophecies that we would never
be heard of again.
Leaving the outskirts of Quito, our path led us across
the beautiful plain of Anaquito, which spreads out to the
north of the city. Tuere is always a saddened feeling
that steals over one, Avhen he knows that he is taking a
last farewell of scenes which, by long and pleasant asso
ciations, have become familiar. Such Avere the emotions
Ave experienced then ; still they were awakened not alone
by the fading view of the capital, but our thoughts were
tui-ned to feelings of subdued sadness, because one must
be left behind. During our short sojourn at Quito we
had laid one of our little party. Colonel Staunton, in a
foreign grave, and it was just to our right, upon the plains
of Anaquito, that we passed the little cemetery where lay
that friend who had shared in the early labors of the ex
pedition, and participated with us the delight of viewing,
for the first time, the beauty and grandeur of tropic scenes.
Turning from a gentle rise for a last view of the " City of
the Incas," our eyes wandered fi-om its towers and domes,
and lingered upon that sacred spot ; and, as there came
pleasant, sad memories of the past, our hearts alone could
whisper the word — " Farewell ! "
Colonel Phineas Staunton was Vice-Chancellor of Ing
ham University, Le Roy, New York. He had cherished, with
an artist's longing, a desire to visit the tropics ; especially
did he wish to sketch the wondrous scenery of the Andes.
Said he, " Church has painted the ' Heart of the Andes ; '

256 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
I shall paint its spirit''' But he had another object in
visiting our southern continent, which, had he been per
mitted to realize it, would have been of incalculable value
to science. As you enter the large Memorial Hall, sacred
to his memory, in Le Roy, New York, you observe, just
over the entrance, portraits of three noted North- American
Indian chiefs. They are paintings by Colonel Staunton. Im
pressed with the conviction that the aboriginal inhabitants
of the New World were doomed to speedy extinction, or
that, at least, all their physical characteristics would soon
be obliterated, he proposed to go into the Avildest portions
of North, and also of South America, in order to obtain
the best representatives of the race. When the impor
tance of these to the future ethnological student recurs to
our minds, stranger still seems the Providence that took
him from us in the midst of his unfinished plans. When
our expedition was organized, he joined it as its artist,
and had but just entered into the work, with all the en
thusiasm of his nature, when the fever contracted upon
the coast took him fi-om us. We laid him just beneath
the shadows of Pichincha, and to-day there is a lonely
grave, to which our hearts oft revert, amid the guarding
mountains of the Andes. It is a fitting resting-place for
the artist, with the snow-croAvned mountains, symbols of
his OAVn purity, standing as silent sentinels about his
grave. " 0, beauteous Earth I his worship didst thou know.
That thou shouldst take him to thy very heart,
And set thy mountains, with then: sun-kissed snow,
To guard his precious dust, of thme a part ?
Once to behold that vision of delight.
To breathe the air of thine eternal spring ;
And then his soul, exultant, took its flight.
To dwell forever with its Lord and King,
Grieve not, 0 Earth ! immortal was thy child.
And, springing from his consecrated grave,

RELIGIOUS INTOLERANCE. 257
Behold a flower, whose splendor undefiled
May yet thy darkened people cheer and save.
Its starry rays are lighted from above,
And, in its heart, the crimson Cross of Love," *
We feel impelled, in this connection, to speak of the
intolerant spirit of Roman Catholicism, which pervades
and animates the repubUcs of South America — republics,
yet often suppressing liberty of conscience. Prof. Orton,
before the open grave of Colonel Staunton, around which
were gathered the remaining members of the expedition,
and a few friends, residents of Quito, spoke the following
Avords : " Yonder city of Quito has stood for three hundred
years, but has never seen such a day as this — a Protestant
burial in a Protestant burial-ground." The import of this
remark will be understood when we observe that the
Ecuadorian Government has, under ecclesiastical influence,
occupied so illiberal a position as virtually to exclude all
but the Catholic faith, refusing even to enclose a burial-
place for Protestant foreigners who might die within the
country. But our late minister to Quito, Hon. W. T.
Coggeshall, supported by protestations from our govern
ment, succeeded in inducing the Quitonian authorities to
set apart the little cemetery to which we have alluded,
and that was to be devoted to the use of the Protestant
residents of Quito. Just a few days before the death of
our friend, the cemetery was completed, and his was the
first " Protestant burial in a Protestant burial-ground " in
the Catholic city of Quito.
That day inaugurated a new era for Ecuador. It
marked the first step taken in abandonment of that bUnd
and suicidal policy which has so long hermetically sealed
her against the entrance of that foreign element which
* These beautiful lines were written by a friend of Colonel Staunton,
upon the receipt of the intelligence of his death and burial at Quito.
They accompany a little volume in memoriam of the artist.

258 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
alone will ever develop her vast natural resources. As a
result of the fanatical prejudice against Protestants, there
are, at present, only three or four American residents in
Quito. Nominal reUgious freedom is now enjoyed in most
of the republics of South America, though trammelled by
meddling and arbitrary legislation, and often rendered in
operative by the fury of an impressible populace, led by
the fanaticism of an ignorant, bigoted, and intolerant
clergy. Let us not be misunderstood. Not one word
Avould we say against CathoUcism. All that we speak
against is unkind intolerance. All that we ask is a kindly
recognition of the right of every man to form an individual
opinion upon every question involving individual respon
sibUity, and countenance and protection in the enjoyment
, of that opinion. This, we beUeve, will soon be secured
throughout South America. There are many there who
feel that the time for religious intolerance and exclusive
ness has passed. There are many causes at work, among
which are none stronger than the demanded commercial
relations that must soon be assumed, which will speedUy
break down and remove those factitious barriers that have
so long hedged about the prosperity and advancement
of the republics of our sister continent.
From this digression let us return to our joumey. As
Quito lies close under the Western Cordillera, Ave had to
traverse the entire width of the plateau, which, at this
point, is about thirty miles. These table-lands are not, as
might be inferred, level plains, but, besides being broken
by projecting spurs of the main Cordilleras, they are
traversed by deep canons, with banks so high and precip
itous that we were often obliged to follow their com-se a
considerable distance before finding a practicable crossing.
Our road was, at times, a single foot-path ; at others, an
innumerable number of deep ruts or paths, anastomosing
so as to form a broad net-AVork, leading across uncultivated

SENSITIVE PLANTS. 259
plains, almost destitute of A'Cgetation. But a portion of
the valley formed a pleasant contrast to these desolate
stretches, being clothed with cactuses and several species
of mimosa, that interesting family of sensitive-plants so
largely represented in the tropics. In our oAvn States we
have only a few species, but here they are often the most
numerous and conspicuous forms, towering high above the
other vegetation. We have already described the Saman
de Giiere, near Valencia, in Venezuela, a member of this
family, forming, from its gigantic size and graceful pro
portions, the central object in the beautiful scenery of the
valley of Aragua. In Southern Brazil, Fletcher tells us
of whole groves of these sensitive-plants, which, upon the
approach of evening, fold their leaves, and open them
again only with the light of the morning, some even an
ticipating the coming day. This family of plants are, by
a Avise provision, furnished Avith sharp prickles, which con
stitute an effectual protection from rude approach. Why
they should fold their leaves at the approach of evening is
inexplicable.* It tells of a strange sympathy existing
throughout Nature, animate and inanimate — of the laws of
which we are yet ignorant.
Late in the evening we arrived at the Hacienda of Itul
oachi, a cattle-farm and bread-factory, situated at the base
of the Eastern CordUlera. Learning that our baggage
had not arrived, we resolved to pass the night here, in
hopes that it might come up during the evening. There
is something interesting in these old haciendas ; perhaps
the same interest that attaches itself to any ruins, for
they are generally fallen into decay, with their broken
* " One fact, among others, showing that the changes are not caused
by the light, but by some power in the plant itself, is this : The leaves
of the sensitive-plant close long before sunset, but they expand again
before sunrise, under much less light than they had when they closed.
Besides, in this, as in many other plants, the leaves take the nocturnal
position when brushed or jarred," — Oray.

260 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA,
walls mantled with vines. A portion of this one, how
ever, was in a good state of preservation ; the principal
court-yard, used as an enclosure for trains of donkeys and
mules, being surrounded by a pleasant arcade, which had
suffered but little from the effects of time. The room fur
nished us afforded no conveniences for sleeping, except
several huge bread-trays, and, each selecting one adapted
to his length, Ave spread our blankets within, and found
them quite comfortable. The night passed pleasantly,
but it was unfortunate for our morning nap that the next
was baking-day ; and early the Indians came in for their
kneading-troughs. Not wishing to retard culinary busi
ness, we turned out, the trays were lifted through the low
Avindow, into the back cOurt-yard, and the process of bread-
making commenced. Then we paid a visit to the mill.
It was a primitive affair, attended by an ugly squaw, who
was wading barefooted in the flour, which was allowed to
fall directly upon the floor, from all sides of the uncovered
stones. Part of our baggage having come up dm-ing the night,
and being assured that by evening all would reach Tablon,
a small Indian village upon the sierra, several thousand
feet above Ituloachi, we set out in advance, and reached
the place early iu the afternoon. Beneath us lay the
valley of Quito, and beyond stretched along the wall of
the Western Cordillera, broken by the towers and pin
nacles of Pichincha, Atacatzo, Corazon, and Iliniza. Its
deeply-serrated ranges seemed to have been torn and
tossed, by the Titanic poAver of a tremendous upheaving
force, into a thousand rude pUes of rock and earth. From
Tablon we had a most glorious sunset. We never wearied
vicAving sunset among the Andes. The great elevation of
the Quito Valley has an influence upon the rays of tho
sun, so that the landscape, under a waning light, is un
rivalled OA'en by that beneath the classic skies of Italy.

REFLECTIONS. 261
The heavens also present a pecuUar character of " mild
effulgence and repose."* That we kncAV was our last
sunset view in the valley of Quito, for the following day
we were to climb to the crest of the cordillera, and
commence our descent to the Amazons. Perhaps it was
this thought that led us to sit longer than usual in
the chill evening air, while the shadows of the West
ern Cordillera grew longer and deeper upon the plain
below. Slowly the Ught faded away from the great hills,
till the snowy peaks stood in ghostly paleness about us.
As we watched the shades of night stealing over that
valley, once the favorite home of the Incas, was it strange
that our reveries carried us back to the past, and we
were viewing another scene — ^watching the Ught of the
empire of the " Children of the Sun " dying away from
those same hills, and the chill and darkness of a spiritual
night falling upon them ? With what feelings of unde
fined sadness is the history of the Incas always recalled,
since the pen of Prescott has invested their strange story
with so romantic an interest ! The ruins of their works
now lie scattered upon the sierras or throughout the val-
* Humboldt, in speaking of the aspect of the heavens viewed from the
table-lands of Peru, says : " On an average the fixed stars appear only to
scintillate when less than 10° or 12° above the horizon. At great eleva
tions they shed a mild, planetary light." This observer refers the phe
nomenon of seintUlatiou to "luminous interferences," caused by the
rays of light passing through strata of air of unequal density. In the
tropics the atmosphere is more uniform as respects distribution of heat
and humidity, consequently the twinkling of the stars is less observable.
If, now, in that uniform atmosphere, we take our position upon the lofty
plateaux of the Andes, thus placing more than a third (by weight) of the
atmosphere beneath us, we can readily perceive why the stars should pre
sent that planetary appearance. The same authority, whose views we
are presenting, in speaking of planets, observes : " The absence of scin
tillation in planets with larger disks is to be ascribed to compensation
and to the neutralizing mixture of colors proceeding from different
points of the disk," See " Cosmos," vol, iii., pp. 99, 101.

262 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
leys of the Andes. Along the flank of the Eastern Cor
dillera may be seen to-day remnants of the great road
which once connected Lima, Cuzco, and Quito, the three
great centres of the Peruvian kingdom. Upon the table
lands, massive ruins of the temples of the sun mark the
devotion of the people to their religion. As we might
expect, traditions of their former state of happiness exist
among the Peruvian Indians, who stUl look for the resto
ration of the Inca dynasty, longing for its mild, paternal
sway, while crushed by Spanish oppression. The corrupt
ing influence of this foreign civilization has wrought a
great change upon these Indians.. A certain chief being
asked why he shunned civilization, replied : " What you
call civilization is simply a coUection of vices ; before you
came among my peofjle they were pure and good ; see
what your civilization has made them."
It is interesting to observe that every instance of
high, indigenous civilization among the primitive nations
of the New World was looked down upon by the loftiest
peaks of the highest mountain-ranges. Witness the civ
ilization of the Quitus and Carans, guarded by the noble
mountains which stand about the Quito Valley ; and, again,
that of the Incas, nourished into national strength and
vigor amid the peerless peaks of the highlands of Titi
caca, and later spreading itself over the Quitonian valley ;
observe, also, the civilization of the Montezumas, walled
in by the cordiUeras of Mexico. Shall we consider the
influence of their mountain-home as the originating and
moulding power which determuied those characteristics
that so widely distinguished the Indians of the plateaux
of the Andes, and the table-lands of Mexico, from all
other American tribes? So Ruskiii would. He would
tell us that, as we find the dweller of the plain sharing in
his nature the tameness of the scenery about him, so we
must expect the mountaineer to partake of the stern en-

STERILITY, 263
ergy of the hUls. With him, "mountain gloom and
glory," aside from climatic considerations, are forma
tive forces in determining national character. There is
certainly enough gloom and glory there ; and while wc
would not ignore their influence, still to those elevated
table-lands, carrying a temperate climate under the tropics,
must be largely referred all these remark.able instances of
aboriginal development.
From Tablon we cUmbed up a steep paramo, until, at
the height of over two mUes, we entered a dense group
of polylepis, which, thinks Dr. Jameson, flourishes at the
greatest elevation of any tree upon the globe : it is found
upon Chimborazo, thirteen thousand feet above the sea.
Upon these lofty slopes also grow representatives of the
genera Valeriana and potentilla, and some shrubby com-
positiB. We made a short halt for refection, in an open
spot of the forest, at an altitude twice as great as the
summit of Mount Washington. Resuming our journey,
we soon issued from this polylepis forest upon an open
paramo, which afforded pasturage to large herds of Avild-
cattle.* As we mounted higher, vegetation, Avith the ex
ception of a few tufts of wiry grass, almost entirely dis-
* As we have already remarked, the wild cattle and horses found in
South America are not the offspring of those that roamed its plains
during the geologic period immediately preceding the present. As is
well known, fossil remains of a species of horse, elephant, and mastodon,
have been found upon both continents. The last two are found in the
vaUey of Quito upon the Andes, Fossils belonging to these same genera
have also been taken from the deposits of northem Siberia. This wide
geographical distribution of these genera, ran^ng over three continents,
has led to the supposition that Asia and North and South America were
connected at no remote geologic period, Darwin conjectures that, over
land now submerged near Behring's Strait and in the West Indies, these
animals found their way from the northem plains of Asia into North
America, and then into the southern continent. AU these species have
become extinct. The existing cattle and horses of the Americas are in
troduced European species.

264 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
appeared. The only sign of life upon these elevated,
barren tracts is the condor, that may often be seen sweep
ing in majestic circles far above the highest peaks. The
home of this bird is between the elevations of two and
three mUes; but in its flights it frequently rises to a
height of over four mUes, and yet at that immense alti
tude it soars as easily as when it sweeps, as occasionaUy it
does, through the dense air of the low coast. Humboldt
estimates that he saw it at an elevation of over twenty-
three thousand feet; the greatest elevation attained by
any living thing, Avith the exception of some microscopic
insects, which are often carried much higher by upward
currents of air. The spread of wings of the condor is
from nine to thirteen feet. NotAvithstanding this great
expanse, such is the elevation to which the condor rises,
that we have observed it, when we were standing at a
height of sixteen thousand feet, to appear as a mere speck,
projected against the sky above us. When in the air its
wings are motionless. It is difficult to conceive how a
bird of so great a size can support itself, seemingly with
out any effort. " In the case of any bird soaring," says
Darwin, " its motion must be sufficiently rapid, so that the
action of the incline surface of the body upon the atmos
phere may counterbalance its gravity." This motion he
supposes to be given by the movement of the neck and
body of the bird. The same authority says that it is
frequently captured at night by the Chilenos whUe it is
perching in the trees upon the low coast. We were told
of a different method more generaUy employed by the In
dians. A low paUsade is formed, enclosing a cu-cle within
which is placed the body of some animal, that soon at
tracts these keen-sighted vultures. After they have gorged
themselves they are unable to rise, on account of the con
tracted circle, as they cannot leave the ground without
taking a run of some distance.

VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE AMAZONS. 266
After climbing upward the greater portion of the day,
we at length stood upon the very crest of the Cordillera,
at an elevation of almost three miles, and looked down
into the tropical valley of the Amazons. Not more per
fect could have been the contrast between that view and
our last of the valley of Quito. The Quitonian plains pre
sented a scene of perfect repose ; with the clouds lying in
heavy banks in the transversal vaUeys, or resting in long
drifts upon the flanks of the Western Cordillera. Over
the summit of the ridge, in the Amazonian Valley, the
trade-winds were dashing heavy clouds against that gigan
tic mountain-wall, or sweeping them wildly up the steep
slopes of the paramos. It was only through the rents, torn
in the clouds, that we could catch a glimpse of the great
forest, which seemed to roll Uke a dark sea into the deep
vaUeys between the outlying spurs of the Andes.
Starting down the eastern slope, our horses leaped
across a rivulet, the first waters of the Amazons, now a
little stream half lost in the tall grass of the moorland,
before reaching the sea a majestic river, presenting to the
voyager a blank horizon of water and sky. We passed
the night at a tambo two thousand feet below the summit
of the cordillera. Snow whitened the surrounding moun
tains, as, the foUoAving morning, we set out for Papallacta,
the terminus of our ride. A short distance from our
tambo we found ourselves upon the borders of a little
lake, formed by a stream of lava from Antisana flowing
across the bed of a mountain-stream. After leaving this
lake, our traU became fearful, even for the Andes, often
dropping down by means of steps formed of the trunks
of trees, laid transversely, down which our trained horses
carefully descended sidewise. At times we rode along
the wall of the ancient lava-stream which poured down
the slope. Reaching Papallacta, we were greeted by the
Indian governor, who received us in his own hut, spread

266 OVER THE EASTERN CORDILLERA.
our dripping blankets — for we had been riding in a drench
ing rain — and, as we squatted about the fire, built in the
centre of the room, provided each with a calabash of wel
come cordial.
The day of our arrival was a sad one for the little vii
lage of Papallacta ; for death had entered the tribe. Ac
cording to custom, the funeral was at night. The entire
village having assembled within the rude church, they
marched slowly to the grave, where the women chanted a
plaintive song. The mingled group, their dusky faces,
seemingly sad, revealed by the weird light of the torches,
presented an interesting scene ; while the stUlness, and the
gloomy shadows of the dark, amphitheatral hills, seemed
in fit keeping with the ceremonies.
The village of Papallacta consists of about thirty huts,
with a population of scarcely one hundred. The day fol
lowing our arrival the governor collected the inhabitants,
and with them squatted before our hut to negotiate for
the trip to the Napo. It was arranged that, in consid
eration of one hundred pesos, we were to have a train of
twenty Indians, each of whom was to carry seventy-five
pounds ; we were to start j>:>as«c?(£> manana, day after to
morrow (nothing is done in this country until to-morrow
or next day), and, upon the ninth day from PapaUacta, we
and our baggage Avere to be safely delivered into the hands
of the Indians of Archidona, a village only one day's jour
ney from the Rio Napo.

CHAPTER XIX,

BENEATH THE EOEEST.

Leave Papallacta. — ^Wretched Trail. — Torrents and Land-slides. — Our
Camp. — ^Baeza, — Fording the Hondachi, — Separated from our Train, —
Archidona and Archidonians, — Photographing Indians, — A New
Train, — Tropical Forest. — Scarcity of Animals, — Sight of the Rio
Napo. Upon the morning appointed, the 5th of November,
we turned our backs to Papallacta, and, Avith our Indian
train, which, by the addition of several of the wives of
our natives, had increased to thirty, we entered the dense
forest that for two weeks was to shut out every satisfac
tory Adew of the sky above. The trail which we followed
was all but impassable : at times it led us up almost per
pendicular acclivities, then dropped to the bottom of some
fearful ravine ; sometimes we floundered through matted
marshes, or forded, Avith the greatest difficulty, the tor
rents which rushed across our trail ; frequently the rocky
cUffs, or tangled forest, so closely hemmed the streams
that the trail would be forced into the current, and waist-
deep in water we would follow doAvn their courses, or
tread our way upon the detached rocks along their banks.
In order to form any conception of the torrents wb.'.ch rush
down the eastern slope of the Andes, it must be remem
bered that we have here, not the water-system constituting
the drainage of a short hill-side, but that of the sloping

268 BENEATH THE FOREST.
roof of a vast mountain-range, that lifts its ridge to an
average elevation of almost three miles, and which per
mits scarcely a single drop of water to pass its summit.
All the vapors gathered by the equatorial trade-Avinds, as
they sweep from the Atlantic over the teeming valley of
the Amazons, are thrown down upon the eastern side of
this great refrigerator. Of the severity of tropical storms
we have already spoken. After a short continuance every
rivulet is converted into a mountain-torrent, and the great
est danger attending the descent of the Andes is the Ua-
bUity to be suddenly cut off from retreat or advance by
swollen rivers. Although the general descent of the orien
tal slope of the Andes is more gradual than the occidental,
yet the flanks of the ranges, which stand as gigantic but
tresses along the main longitudinal cordUlera, seem quite
as precipitous ; and frequently, upon their almost vertical
declivities, could be seen the long scar of the land-sUde,
which had torn its way down from a great height, throw
ing a vast pile of dkhris — rocks and crushed trees — across
our trail.
At an early hour of the afternoon of our first day's
march, we halted for the night. We had made a consid
erable descent, indicated by the vegetation, which was
more tropical than that of Papallacta, many palms being
interspersed through the forest. Our Indians quickly con
structed for us a rancho, simply a roof formed of pahns,
or the broad leaves of a parasitic plant that grows here in
abundance. Our natives always encamped near us, and,
building a large fire before their rude shelter, would stretch
themselves side by side iu a semicircle, with their little
ponchos drawn up over their heads, and their naked limbs
extended toward the fire. Our day's march had been a
fatiguing one, although we had made scarcely a dozen
miles, which was our average day's journey. We Avere
drenched by rain, and soaked from fording rivers and

VIEW OF ANTISANA. 269
marshes, but, after bathing, and donning dry clothes, we
felt in humor for a good supper, drawn from our commis
sary stores, after which we rolled ourselves up in our
blankets and dreamed of home.
The morning of the 6th of November was clear and
bright, and by seven we were making an easy ascent,
which was soon alternated by a precipitous descent and a
torrent, and then followed two hours of almost perpendio-
ular climbing, that placed us upon a dizzy ridge, flanked
by immensely deep valleys, threaded by the white lines
of torrents, which, in their hurrying course, were dashing
themselves into foam. Westward we had a splendid view
of Antisana. We had never appreciated its height before,
for we had always viewed it from the elevated table-lands.
We almost shuddered as, having lifted our eyes to its lofty
summit, we dropped them to the bottom of the deep ra
vines. We passed the night at a camping-place called
Pachamama, and the following day reached Baeza, a
hamlet consisting of two Indian huts, and, as our natives
desired a rest, we tarried here one day. From the family
occupying one of the dwellings our Indians purchased a
pig, and we gratified them by dispatching it with our rifle,
when they singed it, then all day long held high carnival.
We opened our cans and concocted some flapjacks, and
baked and ate, and ate and baked, till we fairly astonished
our natives.
Upon the 9th, continuing our march, we pushed on to
the Rio Cosanga, a broad, rapid stream, upon the banks
of which we encamped for the night, and were lulled to
sleep by the roar of the torrent. The next day's march
of twelve miles up the .left bank of the stream was made
with the utmost difficulty, the trail being poorly cut, and
the mud often to our knees. Toward night we reached a
rudely-constructed Indian bridge, which spanned the most
formidable portion of the torrent. By this shaky structure

270 BENEATH THE FOREST,
we crossed, and encamped upon the right bank. The next
morning one of our Indians was suffering from a sprain,
and Ave were compelled to remain in camp for the day. A
heavy rain, that had set in the night before, continued
throughout the day, until the Cosanga became so swollen
as to sweep away the bridge by which we had crossed the
evening previous. Fortunate was it for us that we had
not encamped upon the opposite bank. The following day
found our Indian no better, and, not daring to delay
longer, we left him in a little ranch, with a supply of pro
visions, to await the return of the others from Archidona.
For the greater part of the day we made a gentle descent,
the trail running along the crest of Guacamayo ridge,
which radiates from the main cordillera. Descending
from this range, we crossed the Cochachimbamba, and
passed the night at a camping-place which rejoiced in the
name of Guayusapugaru.
Early the following morning we reached the Hondachi,
a broad stream, rushing down an inclined bed, broken by
huge bowlders. In attempting to cross, it was Avith the
utmost difficulty that our Indians, accustomed as they were
to fording torrents, retained their footing. We scarcely
realized the danger of the attempt untU one poor fellow
was swept from his feet and borne doAvn the rapids ; for
tunately, he caught a projecting bowlder, and was assisted
ashore. In fording streams, instead of leaning against the
current, as we very naturally did, before initiated, our In
dians would lean with it. With the body in this position,
the water tends to press the feet upon the bottom. Lack
ing the dexterity of our Indians, we deemed it prudent,
before attempting the passage of the maddened Hondachi,
to have stretched across the torrent a rope, with which we
were fortunately provided. This, being too short to span
the river, was held at either end by an Indian, who, stand-
ins; a short distance in the stream, braced himself with a

. < '-^-^h

l^j*-

*-";¥Hj% ..

I -=:

SEPARATED FROM OUR TRAIN. 271
couple of poles. Thus was bridged the strongest part of
the current. Our precaution was not unnecessary, for,
" upon reaching the middle of the stream, with the water
nearly to our neck, our feet were swept from the bottom,
and, but for the aid of the rope, we would doubtless have
gone doAvn to the Amazons.
With fording rivers, and floundering through swamps,
that day's tramp was a hard one. In our order of march
a small party of three or four generally proceeded several
mUes in advance of the main train, in order to select a
camping-place for the night, and to construct a ranch.
We generaUy attended the main company, but this day
we took a middle position. It was growing dark when
we found ourselves separated, no knoAving by what dis
tance from our baggage, a part in advance, and the re
mainder behind. Whether to attempt to OA'crtake the
leading party, or turn back to meet the other, Avas a per
plexing question ; but the thought of passing twice more
over the traU we had come decided our wavering, and on
we pushed. As we dragged ourselves wearily along, we
thought of Bayard Taylor, who, whUe traversing some dis
torted portion of the world, tells us of one of his agoyats
exclaiming : " I was never in this country of Maina be
fore. If I should happen to be fettered and brought here
by force, I might see it again ; but of my OAVn will, never ! "
If ever we see the orient of Ecuador again, it will be
from reasons as cogent as those required to secure a re
visit to Maina by that dragoman. We could not also
help commending the decision of two associate travellers
of Dr. Jameson, who, having accompanied him from Quito
to the Rio Napo, determined, rather than go back across
this trail, to descend the Napo and Amazons, a distance
of three thousand miles, and sail for the States from Para,
instead of Guayaquil, as they had intended.
At length we were gladdened by the sight of a rancho,
13

272 BENEATH THE FOREST.
with a fire in front, surrounded by four of our Indians.
One was a mere boy, who had carried a pack of eighty
pounds ! How the little fellow had brought it along the
trail, which led across rivers, up precipices, through jun
gles and dense forests, which hemmed the path so closely
that we, unembarrassed by any load, found it almost im
possible to force our way, was ever a mystery to us. The
same pack was, during one long day's march, carried by
a woman. Our provisions, blankets, and dry garments,
were with the other party. This was pleasant ! But there
was no alternative, and we threw ourselves in our wet
clothes upon the ground, crowded together, and — waited
for the morning. It did come at last, and cold, stiff, sleepy,
and hungry, not knowing whom to blame for our discom
fort, we sat crouching over a little fire which we had suc
ceeded in building, waiting for our Indians to come up.
They arrived a little after sunrise, and we had soon pre
pared the best breakfast our stock of proAdsions would
afford. Leaving this camping-place, often to be recalled
during the remainder of our tour, we recommenced our
march for Archidona, where we arrived early in the day.
Here we received a cordial welcome from the bishop and
padre, Jesuit missionaries laboring among the Indians.
Archidona lies just at the foot of the Andes, upon the
banks of the Misagualli, and contains au Indian popula
tion of about five hundred. Buried in the midst of the
great forest, it is almost completely isolated fi-om the rest
of the world, and can be reached only by Indian trails.
The huts are low, the thickly-thatched roofs reaching near
ly to the ground. The Archidonian Indians in physical
development are superior to any Avith whom Ave came in
contact in South America. The men are taller than
those of the tabledands of the Andes, are slightly and
even deUcately built ; their long, dark, sometimes curling
hair, falling over their shoulders, giving them a peculiarly

ARCHIDONIANS. 273
feminine appearance. The women in both form and fea
ture, are, as Dr. Jameson observes, inferior to the men.
Darwin remarks the same in speaking of the personal
appearance of the Tahitian women. The only clothing
of the men consists of a narrow cloth about their waist,
and a light poncho, both of a coarse cotton manufacture,
obtained from Quito. This dress is especially becoming
to the little boys, who, with delicately-formed limbs,
painted a deep red with annotto (Bixa orellana), and
with every movement natural and unrestrained, are really
interesting ; and, often, the charming simplicity of these
children of the forest is graceful and winning. A life freer
from care than that led by these Indians can hardly
be conceived. To supply their wants they have only to
gather the fruit of the palm and the plantain, or secure
with their poisoned arrows game from the . surrounding
forest. Far removed from moroseness, their disposition
is cheerful and active. Their minds, however, are unable
to grasp abstract ideas, and seem scarcely susceptible of
cultivation — a fact well attested by the padres, who have
labored among them for two hundred years, yet Avith no
perceptible results beyond keeping them docUe. We could
not but think that should these assiduous and self-denying
teachers adopt the method pursued by our own mission
aries in fields quite as unpromising, and teach these In
dians the virtue of industry, to cultivate the rich soil,
manufacture fabrics from the productions of their virgin
forest, and encourage them to secure for themselves the
comforts of civilized life, their success in developing and
training their spiritual nature might be commensurate
with thefr untiring and praiseworthy zeal.
While at Archidona we were quite successful in in
creasing our collections. We were assisted in our work
by the Indian boys, who, as soon as they got an idea of
what we wanted, brought us large numbers of insects.

274 BENEATH THE FOREST.
with occasional specimens of fishes from the Misagualli.
Being desirous of obtainmg all the representatives pos
sible of the latter, we would reward them with a medio
(a Spanish coin worth five cents) for each specimen. On
one occasion two little fellows came to us, one with the head
and the other Avith the tail of a fish which they had neatly
halved. The head being presented first, the manager of
the department of ichthyology was rejoicing over a new
species, for never before had he seen an ichthyological
specimen end so abruptly ; but, with the tail being handed
in, by the other youngster, the relations of the two be
came apparent.
While here, we determined upon taking a photograph
ic view of Archidonians. This was attended Avith some
difficulty. These natives were not all as wUUng to be
" taken " as the groups about the Congress of Saratoga.
The whole population, men, women, and children — ^the
Avomen each with two babies, one slung before and the
other behind — were assembled and draAvn up in a semi
circle upon the plaza in front of the Uttle church. The
men enjoyed it ; but to the women the camera was clothed
with terrors, they thinking it an escopeta (gun) ; and, as
soon as the operator took position behind the instrument,
they broke in a run for their huts. The good padres suc
ceeded, after much persuasion, in again forming them in
Ime — but again they broke. At length they were induced
to stand within range sufficiently long for a hazy view.
November I7th, with a train of Archidonian Indians,
our others having returned to PapaUacta, we again re
sumed our journey to the Napo. A few miles from Archi
dona we forded the Misagualli, and about noon the broad
and rapid Tena, upon whose banks was a Uttle Indian vil
lage, bearing the name of the river. We were now at the
foot of the Andes, and the vegetation assumed a more
tropical character than that of the higher slopes. Stately

TROPICAL FOREST. 275
pahns lifted their heavy crowns throughout the struggling
mass ; arborescent ferns,* which spring, with a palrn-like
growth, to a height of forty feet, although native to the
temperate heights of the cordiUeras, were still occasionally
seen ; the equisetum, a cryptogamous plant, congener of
our northern scouring rush, attained a height of twenty
feet ; while arborescent grasses, shooting up forty feet
above us, impressed us with the capabilities of a tropical
nature. These fa,miliar illustrations will enable one to
form some conception of the luxuriance of the vegetation
here, and the gigantic size attained by specific forms.
But these do not constitute the frame-work of the forest.
This is formed by the trunks of exogenous trees similar in
appearance to northern arboreal forms. The diameter of
these is not so striking as their great height. This fram
ing is filled in Avith every form of vegetation ; parasites
and epiphytes, the aerial roots of the latter often reaching
doAvn from the highest trees to the ground, load the
branches ; while gray, sombre, arboreous mosses lend a
pecuUarly melancholy aspect to the old forest-monarchs ;
vines encircle the trunks, and, looping, twisting, and inter
twining, form a perfect maze of cordage. Humble plants
of strange types form the lower stratum of the forest,
constituting an almost solid mass of vegetation, through
which it is often impossible to penetrate. As the sun
scarcely enters the depths of these primeval forests, every
thing is saturated with moisture, which humidity affords
one of the chief requisites for that giant vegetation which
we find upon the flanks of the Andes and throughout the
valley of the Amazons. We found the forest at least
*¦ We obtained sections of this gigantic plant eight inches in diam
eter, Darwin measured some in Van Diemen's Land six feet in circum
ference. The species are numerous, and, as Humboldt observes, are
confined almost exclusively to the tropics, but there preferring temperate
altitudes.

276 BENEATH THE FOREST.
grander in proportions upon the slopes of the equatorial
Andes than in the heart of the valley. The same is ob
served in crossing the continent from the mountains upon
the north. The forests of the Rio Negro seem dwarfed in
comparison with those of the VenezueUan cordiUeras.
One of the most striking pecuUarities of these forests,
and one which every botanist quickly observes, is the ab
sence of flowers. We journeyed sometimes for days Avith
out meeting with any conspicuous inflorescence. The few
flowers we found were small and of a dull color. The sun
light is too much excluded to allow Flora to j)aint her
forms with those rich, brilliant hues with which she decks
the floAvers of the unshaded table-lands, and even the
shrinking rosettes of the mountain paramos. The inflo
rescence is above and along the walls of the rivers. Ani
mated life, also, as we have intimated, is extremely scarce.
During our entire journey from Quito to the Napo, a dis
tance of nearly two hundred miles, upon which trip we
had anticipated adding largely to our zoological coUec
tions, we saAV but few birds ; only one company of mon
keys, and these were going through the tops of the forest
as if to fulfil an appointment ; one serpent, that was so
unfortunate as to get into our alcohol-can ; and a jaguar,
which one evening ran through our camp — startling our
natives. Our Archidonian Indians led us rapidly over the traU,
that our journey might be completed before night. Just
at evening the forest suddenly opened before us, and we
stood upon the banks of the Rio Napo. The tm-bid
stream appeared almost stagnant, compared with the fu
rious torrents of the cordiUeras, and, in its slower march
seemed as if wearied Avith its leaping, hurrying course
down the Andes. We greeted it with delight, for it told
us of the end of weary marches over Avretched traUs, and
we now imagined ourselves floating dreamingly doAvn to

SAD THOUGHTS. 277
the Amazons. Strange were our feelings as we stood
upon the banks of that lonely river. We realized then a
full sense of our isolation, and felt, as we never had be
fore, the loneliness of the great Avilderness. We scarcely
know why, but we always felt more lonely when upon the
rivers than when far removed from them in the forest ;
perhaps, because we had learned, in our northern land, to
associate with rivers the picture of cities and the life of
commerce ; and then, when we saw the desolateness of
these forest-walled rivers, we felt the strangeness of the
contrast.

CHAPTER XX.
CAKOE-VOTAGB DOWN THE EIO NAPO.
Napo Valley, — An Island-home. — Bees, — Indian Tribes, — Their Lan
guage. — Down the River. — Shooting Rapids. — Santa Rosa. — Au Indif
ferent Crew. — Coco Village. — Our " Zaparo." — Last View, of the
Andes. — ^Birds upon the Napo, — Toucans, — Hummers, — Turtles'
Eggs. — Sancudos. — Camp upon a Playa. — Our Indians. — Tropical
Vegetation. — View of the Maraiion,
Neae the point where we emerged from the forest is
located the Indian village of Napo, comprising about
thirty straggling huts. It stands at the head of canoe-
navigation upon the Rio Napo, six hundred miles from its
confluence with the Maranon, as the upper portion of the
Amazons is called. In front of the town the current of
the river, as we have remarked, is smooth, but a short dis
tance above and below it breaks, in formidable rapids,
over sandstone ledges.
A short hour's walk fi-om the village, upon a little
island formed by the Yusupino, a small affluent of the
Napo, Ave found an American, Mr. George Edwards, who
had lived here, almost isolated from the world, for four
teen years. We shall long remember our visit to his
little island-home, and the hearty welcome received. It
was, indeed, a miniature paradise, such as we scarcely ex
pected to find in the depths of these wild forests. It
could be reached only by fording an arm of the river.

BEES. 279
His dwelling Avas simUar to the huts of the Indians, but
more commodious, while the grounds surrounding were
filled with tropical fruits — bananas, pineapples, plantains,
and lemons. We were especially interested in the vaniUa-
plant, which he was successfully cultivating. Since our
return to the States, he, acting upon our suggestion, has
been attempting to domesticate some wild bees, obtained
from the forest. In a letter recently received, detailing
his experience, he says : " Shortly after you left, I obtained
two swarms, which I have preserved in the manner you
directed. They haA^e been busy since secured ; but they
show no indications of swarming. One of the swarms is
of a black color, and are called by the Indians cushillo
mishke, or monkey-honey, because, I suppose, of their re
semblance in color to that animal. The others, which are
yellow, they call rara mishke, or corn-honey. It is curious
that the Indians have no word for bees, only for their color
and for honey. The black species is said to make the most
honey, and the yellow the best." We believe this is the
first attempt 'to domesticate natlA^e bees in the valley of
the Amazons. We are confident that their culture in
those forests will be attended with satisfactory results.
Bees are indigenous to South America ; hence the rea
son of our finding them so far removed from civilization.
In the northern continent they were introduced by the
colonists, and have preceded civilization by only a few
miles as it has advanced westward. European species
were introduced into the temperate portions of Southern
Brazil in 1845, and have there been quite successfully cul
tivated. There are about one hundred and fifty species
of native bees in South America. The largest number are
destitute of stings, or have them but imperfectly developed
— one thing in their favor, certainly. Some of these spe
cies inhabit hollow trunks, others construct their homes
under-ground, while upon the Llanos of Venezuela is a

280 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
kind that construct a nest similar to a wasps'. A few
species collect sour honey. Large quantities of wax are
gathered in the different provinces of Brazil, by the na
tives, who are experts in finding a " bee-tree." In Agassiz's
" A Journey in Brazil " we observe the foUoAving, relative
to the mathematics of the bee, displayed in the construc
tion of its cells : " The bees stand as close as they can to
gether in their hive, for economy of space, and each one
deposits his wax around him, his OAvn form and size being
the mould for the cells, the regularity of which, when com
pleted, excites so much wonder and admiration. The
mathematical secret of the bee is to be found in his struct
ure, not in his instinct." This statement is incoixect, and
the inference wrong. In South America are species of
bees that, while possessing forms quite as perfect as Euro
pean varieties, still display less accuracy and economy in
the construction of their cells. We are at a loss to con
ceive how, if the shape of the cell of our OAvn hive-bee be
dependent upon the structure of the insect, that should
give it its peculiar hexagonal form. A few moments' ob
servation before an open hive shows us the true modus ope
randi. The bee, instead of depositing the wax about its
body, takes a position upon the comb, whUe the scale of
wax, secreted from its body, is placed upon the edge of
the cell, and carefully moulded into shape. The mysteries
and mathematics of the hive must be sought in the instinct
of the bee, and not in its structure.
The Napo Indians, at the time of our arrival, were
celebrating one of then- festivals — a curious amalgamation
of their own customs with innovations introduced by the
padres, during their semi-occasional visits among them.
While delayed here several days, in making preparations
for our trip to the Amazons, we were entertained by a
constant drumming, the essential accompaniment of an
Indian pow-wow. To drum and drink chicha are the cen-

INDIAN TRIBES. 281
tral ideas of these fiestas, which are maintained by the
Indians for weeks together, until the faUure of provisions
compels them to set out upon long hunting-excursions.
Their vUlages are then deserted, and we fipd them scat
tered in little tambos along the banks of the lagoons and
minor water-courses, obtaining a precarious subsistence
from the streams and forests.
There are two principal tribes dwelling upon the Rio
Napo : the Z4paros, upon the southern bank of the river,
and the Napos, upon the northern. The latter have been
partially civiUzed by the padres, and, in almost all their
little vUlages, the rude church, occupying the most promi
nent site, indicates their presence. The nomadic Zaparos,
from the fact that they do not congregate in towns, have
not been brought under the influence of civilization. They
are the most abject and miserable Indians that we en
countered in the interior. The Quichua is the language
of the Napos. Singularly enough, in Quichua the word
for mother is the same as in English. It seems strangely
odd to hear these children of the forest calling " mammd ! "
The tongue of the Zaparos is, doubtless, judging from
certain affinities, a dialect of the same. In common Avith
many other American tribes, their system of numeration
contains traces of decimal arrangement. However the
tribes beyond the Quichuas may have come in possession
of their somewhat imperfect system — ^whether by contact
with higher civiUzation, or by originating it among them
selves — the rigid notation of these Ipdians bears the im
press of Peruvian culture, and illustrates how language is
moulded and retains the impressions of the genius of a
people long after all other traces of it are lost. The mon
uments of the civiUzation of the Incas, which rose upon
the table-lands of the Andes, now lie scattered over those
plains, in unintelligible ruins; while here, in their lan
guage, we find a monument that avUI endure ages beyond

282 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
the time when the last representative of the PeruAdan
people shall have ceased to speak the tongue of his an
cestors.* * The Hindoo origin of the Incas has been inferred from the similar
ity in grammatical construction of the languages of both ; between two
and three hundred of these coincidences have been poiated out. The
Quichua abounds in compound words ; the conjugations and declensions
are formed by particles, and by the use of different words. From the
admirable work, " Cuzco and Lima," by 0. R. Markham, we take the fol
lowing specimen of Incarial verse, to illustrate the advance made in the
department of poetry by the early Incas. It was taken down from the
lips of the Indians, soon after the Spanish conquest.
A chieftain had fallen in love with the daughter of an Inca, but had
been refused her hand by her father, and the daughter herself (Cusi Coy-
Uur) had been severely reproved, when she is represented as indulging in
this lament ; _
" Ay NustaUay I Ay MamaUay !
How can I faU to mourn ?
How can I faU to weep ?
My father so dear to me.
My guardian so beloved.
In all these days and nights.
In this my tender age.
Has quite forgotten me.
Without asking for me.
Ay MamaUay I Ay NustaUay \
Ah, my adored lover !
In the morning that I came here.
The day became dark.
The sun seemed obscure in the heavens.
As if it were shrouded in ashes.
The clouds of burning fire
Annoanced my grief.
The resplendent star Chasca '
Sped out its rays,
AU the elements were weary,
And the universe was tired.
Ay MamaUay I Ay NustaUay !
Ah, my adored lover !
' Venus.

DOWN THE RIVER. 283
We experienced considerable difficulty in persuading
the Indians to break off their feast for a trip to the Mara
iion ; but at length succeeded in obtaining a sufficient num
ber to man three canoes, which were to take us as far as
Santa Rosa, a Uttle viUage eighty miles beloAV Napo, where
we might obtain canoes and Indians to convey us to the
mouth of the river.
Upon the morning of the 20th of December we em
barked, and were borne swiftly down by the strong cur
rent, which sometimes became dangerous rapids, over
which our little canoes would shoot with fearfal velocity,
our Indian paddlers dexterously avoiding projecting rocks
and breakers. The recollection of the fact that a party
in descending these same rapids, a few years previous, had
been wrecked, and lost every thing, was far from a com
forting thought, as our canoes went plunging down be
tween the rocks, or, as caught in a little eddy, they would
tremble for a moment as poising for another leap, and rush
through the foaming sluices. The appearance of our
naked Indians, their long hair streaming in the wind, and
their wild shouts mingling Avith the roar of the waters,
with the rolling of our little bark, rendered the shooting
of these rapids unique as well as exciting navigation.
Passing safely all these rapids, toward evening we reached
the old site of Santa Rosa, which had been abandoned on
account of its unhealthfulness, the Indians believing that
it had been cursed by the padres. Drawing our boats
ashore, we landed. It was sad to see the Uttle huts of
the deserted village, almost lost in the rank vegetation
that had sprung up around them, with no traces of their
former occupants ; none to gather the falling fruit of the
scattered orange-trees, but all silent and desolate. As the
gloom of the approaching night settled over the deserted
spot, our Indians motioned us to the canoes, unlashed
and quickly pushed them from the bank into the strong

284 CANOE- VOYAGE DOWN THE JJIO NAPO.
current, and in the deepening twilight we swept on doAvn
between the dark forest walls.
About fifteen miles below the old town, we found the
ncAV Santa Rosa, containing one hundred and fifty In
dians. The rapidity with which we had descended the
river may be inferred from the fact that in seven hours
Ave had come a distance of eighty miles, making a fall of
three hundred and fifty feet. The Indians here were also
engaged with their feast, and we again experienced much
difficulty in obtaining any to accompany us to the Mara
iion, but at length secured two canoes and four Indians,
paying them in lienzo — cloth of a coarse cotton manu
facture, which we had brought from Quito. We delayed
at Santa Rosa several days, in order to aUow our Indians
time to prepare a sufficient quantity of the yuca-root to
last them during the long voyage. The yuca-shrub yields
a large cluster of tuberous roots. These, when used for
the manufacture of chicha, are bruised or ground into a
pulpy mass, and then allowed to ferment. A large hand
ful mixed in a calabash of water makes a thick, nutritious,
and not unpleasant drink. It was upon this that our In
dians chiefiy subsisted while passing doAvn the river, se
creting large quantities from time to time upon the islands,
to be used upon their return trip.
The night preceding our departure from Santa Rosa
our Indians spent in drinking chicha, so that the foUoAving
morning, when ready to start, they were, as the Spanish
alcalde expressed it, decidedly " irrational." Bidding adios
to their friends, they shoved our canoe into the stream,
and, with the coolest indifference, stretched themselves in
the bottom, with the exception of the governor, who, as
pilot, settled himself in the stern, and commenced blasting
away upon an old cow's-horn. But such an arrangement,
although doubtless highly conducive to comfort, was de
cidedly incompatible with our idea of safety, as the canoe

COCA VILLAGE. 285
Avas drifting among snags and down rapids, Avith but
Uttle consideration for the right of the bow to go fore
most. Finding all expostulation useless, they being su
premely ignorant of the EngUsh and Spanish languages,
and we as indifferently posted in regard to theu- kita-wa^
wa, as a last resort we tried a vigorous appUcation of one
of the shovel-shaped paddles, which had a most exhila
rating effect upon the happy sleepers, and suddenly at
tracted the attention of the musical govemor to piloting
duties. After this drunk, our Indians were always obedi
ent and faithful, generally working at the paddles with a
ready good-will.
.Early in the first afternoon from Santa Rosa we reached
Simo, a collection of four or five tambos. The night was
excessively sultry, for the river, hemmed in by the high
forest, does not receive the infiuence of the easterly trade-
winds which prevail upon the Amazons and Lower Napo ;
and the burning rays of the vertical sun, pouring in during
the entire day, render the air so oppressively hot that
one feels as though in an oven. We disposed of our
selves for the night, by two of our number sleeping in the
canoes to guard our trappings, while the others swung
their hammocks between the trees upon the bank. The
foUowing day we passed Coca River, one of the largest
tributaries to the Rio Napo, and stopped at the small In
dian village of Coca, a short distance below their conflu
ence. In coming from Napo village we had been obliged
to sit cramped up in the bottom of our canoe, under a low
cover of palm-leaves ; but, all the rapids being now passed,
we determined upon a more pretentious and comfortable
mode of navigation. Firmly lashing our canoes about
eight feet apart, we. covered the intervening space with
a bamboo floor, and, constructing a roof over the whole,
we had a craft such as had never floated upon those
waters before, and which we christened " Zaparo," in honor

286 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
of the wild Indians upon the right bank of the river.
Having completed all much to our satisfaction, we placed
our baggage on board, and early in the morning of the
28th of November — Thanksgiving — we cut loose our craft,
and once more started for the Maranon.
After the confluence of the Coca and Napo, the latter
spreads out beautifully ; and, as there are no mountains to
wall it in and confine it to a single channel, it has cut
numberless paths through the forest, embracing with its
broad arms many beautiful islands, rendering a view up
or down the stream extremely picturesque. The banks
are uniformly low, and torn by the action of the water,
which gradually undermines them until a long strip of
the forest falls with a tremendous crash into the river,
strewing the shore with long lines of its ruins. As we
drifted down we never wearied noting the varied group
ing of the pendant masses of vegetation which fringed
the islands and river-banks. Yet there was one thing we
missed. The hills were gone. How lonesome one feels
without the mountains ! We know not what part of the
education of our feelings we owe to the hUls. Should they
be levelled, we would soon find that they were raised for
purposes other than irrigation, or those which the so-called
utilitarian discovers.
We only realized this after having traveUed for weeks
beneath dense forests, where only now aud theu we could
catch a glimpse of the sky above, and upon a river where
the tall, prison-like walls of the forest shut us in day after
day, until we longed for just one look upon the world out
side — longed for some elevated position, that our eyes
might range over the tops of the forest, and rest satisfied
with seeing the blue lines of distant hills. But no moun
tains break the uniformity of that forest-level, which bears
away thousands of miles to the Atlantic, relieved only by
some slight elevations toward the mouth of the Ama-

LAST VIEW OF THE ANDES. 287
zons ; so that we knew, Avhen we, some time before, bade
farewell to the Andes, that the first mountains which would
cheer us would be our oAvn native hills. Imagine, then,
the surprise and deUght with which, as the sun arose upon
the 28th of November, we saw it faintly tracing to the
westward the outlines of the Cordillera, and the beautiful
shaft of Cotopaxi, seeming lofty as ever, though now two
hundred miles distant. We had bidden adieu long since
to the volcanoes of the Andes, thinking we had seen them
for the last time, so that it Avas with double pleasure we
once more recognized the famiUar form of our favorite,
Cotojiaxi ; which did not now, as when we looked up its
snowy sides from its foot, appear cold and stern, but
through the long distance of the heated tropics it threw
a warm and softened look. The rising mist soon drew a
light veil over it, and shut out our last view of the Andes.
The scene naturaUy recalled our first view of Chimborazo
from the Pacific coast, as one evening; just at sunset, the
clouds lifted from the CordUleras. Those views of the
Andes, our first and last, as they welcomed us through the
opening clouds, in the bold, rugged outline of Chimborazo,
and bade us farewell through the beautiful form of Cotopaxi,
awakened emotions which the lapse of time will not lead
us to forget. We feel such scenes, we take them with us
through life ; we recall them often, or, rather, they come up
uncalled ; but AVOrds will not permit us to tell them to others.
Our passage down the river was a pleasant one. Dur
ing the day, when our Indians were not working at the
paddles, we would allow our craft to float just as suited
its ovm fancy, stern-foremost or sideways, and, as we
drifted thus leisurely with the current, two of our number
would put off with the little canoe, which, when not in
use, we kept lashed to the side of our " Zaparo," in pursuit
of birds, monkeys, and peccaries. The last-named (Dico-
tyles labiatus), a species of wild-hog, in common with the

288 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
pimia, is one of the few South- American animals that have
found their way into the tropical portion of the northem
continent. Among the many beautiful birds upon the Napo, the
guacamaya, belonging to the parrot family, is the most
conspicuous. We kept one of these birds for some time
upon our craft, as a pet, having cUpped its Avings. It was
more beautiful than amiable ; and, having acquired a habit
of climbing to the roof, and of tearing holes through the
thatch, and, upon our going for it, of falUng overboard,
we disposed of it, preserving its skin to grace some future
museum. The toucan is often seen upon the Napo. It is
a prettily-colored bfrd, but aU ideas of proportion are for
gotten in its rostral development. What a beak for such
a bird, or for any bird ! We think it is Goldsmith, in his
" Animated Nature," who says that, after we have seen a
thing, we begin to reflect upon its " uses, purposes, and in
convenience." We fell into a train of reflection, as every
one else when he sees a toucan always does, but no use, no
purpose, could we divine. Had we never been able to
discover but one of these comical creatures, we should
have solved the problem instanter, by shouting, " Imsus
naturae! " At last we Avished for DarAvin, that he might
tell us to what process of " natm-al selection " we were in
debted for this ornithological absurdity.*
We found but few species of humming-bfrds upon the
*"It has been assumed by some writers on natural history, that
every wUd fruit is the food of some bird or animal, and that the varied
forms and structure of their mouths may be necessitated by the pecuUar
character of fruits they are designed to feed on ; but there is more
imagination than fact in this statement : the number of wUd fruits fur
nishing food for birds is very limited, and birds of the most varied struct
ure, and of every size, wiU be found visiting the same tree." — Wallace.
This appUes to the toucan; we cannot account for its immense beak by
supposing it the result of adaptation to certam habits of life ; it feeds
with birds that have bUls as widely different as possible.

HUMMERS, 289
river. The elevated valleys of the Andes are theu- favorite
home. There are about four hundred known species of
hummers, all of which belong to the Americas, and, with
the exception of about half a dozen, are confined to the
southern continent. They are frequently found as far
south as Tierra del Fuegoi Their chosen habitat is the
zone of vegetation which lies just below the paramos of
the Cordilleras. Those living in the shade of the forest
of the Amazonian VaUey are destitute of that brilliancy
of coloration which characterizes the hummers of the high
slopes of the Andes. They probably feed but little upon
the nectar of fiowers, but frequent them for the insects
there found. Like other fissirostral birds, they frequently
catch insects in the air. The full beauty of the hummer
is only displayed when it is upon the wing, fiitting in the
bright sunlight, when every change of position gives bril
liant metaUic flashes from its irisated breast.
From the playas, or sand-bars of the river, we obtained
large quantities of turtles' eggs, which served a good pur
pose, as our stock of provisions brought from Quito was
becoming much reduced. On approaching a playa which
promised to afford eggs, our Indians would cry, '-^Lulun, lu-
lun / " " eggs, eggs ! " and, pulling vigorously for the island,
we would soon be running over the hot sand, each Avith a
stick, which he would thrust into every suspicious-looking
depression, the nest being discovered in this way. It was
Avith a satisfaction nearly akin to our boyish pleasure of
hunting hens' nests in the hay-loft, that, after digging
through a foot or eighteen inches of loose sand, we would
discover the pUe of round, white eggs, stowed away to the
number of eighty or one hundred and twenty ; and then
roll them out in handfuls upon the sand. The turtle
which deposits these eggs does not exceed two feet in
length, attaining a weight of about eighty pounds.
These playas frequently afforded us stopping-places for

290 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
the night ; our Indians always preferring encamping upon
them, to landing on the wooded bank, as they were more
free from insectile pests. But do not think these islands
Avere "Elysian Fields." Far from it. The sancudos (mos
quitoes) were even there in strong force. Our Caracas
party have complained of meeting a few in Venezuela.
There may be a few up there on the Orinoco, but there is
not the least doubt in the world but that they have their
headquarters upon the Napo. It was impossible to Avith-
stand their attacks, and, upon the approach of evening,
we were driven beneath our nettings, where we would lie
nervously watching the SAvarming insects, which we could
see against the light of the sky, gathered in large groups,
or walking about upon the outside of our mosquiteros.
Nor were we always favored by having them Avithout.
Somehow they would gain admittance ; either by entering
with us, or by searching out some hole ever undiscover-
able to us.
While we always spent the night upon our craft, our
Indians Avould sleep upon the playa. Let us stroll over to
their camp, discovered by that little fire buUt of drift
wood, which they have collected from the island. Their
spears are stuck in the sand a few yards from the fire, be
fore which is squatted the pensive old governoi-, holding
upon his knees a little Indian baby, while a young squaw
is stirring, with a rough stick, the contents of an earthen
pot placed over the fire. This is their supper ; being a
conglomeration of meat, turtles' eggs, bananas, yucas,
and annotto. The other members of the party are seated
about the fire, or a little distant, listening, with some de
gree of excitement, to the least splash in the water, or
noise in the forest, which might indicate the presence of
game. After disposing of supper, they will stretch them
selves upon the sand, beneath a rude shelter of palm-
leaves. Such is the life of these wandering Indians. We

ODDITIES. 291
pity them. Still they are content, for they know of noth
ing higher, nothing better.
We were often amused by the oddities of our Indians.
Like all natives of the tropics, they manifested a decided
aversion to clothing. Having resolved one day to mod
ernize our crew, we gave to them some cast-off garments.
Their attempts to put themselves inside, comically be
trayed their lack of acquaintance with such articles. It
was entertaining to see them climbing into the panta
loons wrong end up, and getting the other things on up
side down ; but, with the fit about the neck not being good,
trying again, bringing them on inside out, or wrong side
before. To the governor, who was freely perspiring with
his exertions in the sweltering heat, we gave an overcoat,
and so lugubriously did he survey himself, that for once
our other Indians shouted with merriment. They kept
themselves inside but a short time, and then tore the
things to pieces to subserve other more important pur
poses. December \st. — To-day we saw the first representatives
of the genus homo since being upon the " Zaparo." They
comprised a party of eight or ten Indians — namesakes of
our craft. More unhuman they seemed than the monkeys
of the forest. Almost their only clothing were strips of
bark ; their bodies were blackened and blotched with the
attacks of insects, and their whole aspect indicated a life
of the lowest degradation. We afterward saw two other
canoe-loads ; but, as soon as they caught sight of our craft,
they pulled into a side-channel of the river and disap
peared. Upon the 4th we overtook a Spanish trader on
his way to the Maranon, with a quantity of sarsaparilla
and hammocks. Wishing to secure some of the latter, we
drew alongside of his canoe, and opened negotiations.
To our first question, put in Spanish, respecting the A^alue
of his hammocks, he replied in English, which was such a

292 CANOE-VOYAGE DOWN THE RIO NAPO.
murderous attempt upon the language, that we impul
sively informed him that we did not understand English.
With Spanish grandiosity he then set forth the virtues of
his hammocks. We purchased several, and floated on.
Upon the night of the 8th we were aroused by a se
vere storm, that threatened, for a time, to unroof our
craft. We encountered these squalls frequently upon the
Lower Napo, and they were a source of constant appre
hension. Moreover, we were now among AvUder Indian
tribes, for we had passed beyond the limits of the Napos
and Zaparos. Consequently, upon the night of the 9th,
we instituted a watch. There is more pleasant employ
ment than watching for wild Iquitos, Orejones, and Putu-
mayos in the Napo forest.
The Napo, during its lower course, becomes a majestic
stream, and, forgetting its former haste, moves slowly
down ; and so we were borne leisurely alongside its for
est-borders. We have spoken of the impressiveness of
tropical vegetation. Yet we think Ave are in accord with
all travellers in intertropical America when we say that,
in the forests of those regions, we find but little of the
quiet beauty of our northern woodland scenery. We ad
mire them because of their many individual stately forms,
their boldness of groAvth, thefr wildness, and their luxu
riance. But the one element, color, which must enter
largely into any landscape view calculated to produce
assthetical effect, is here almost entu-ely wanting. We
have remarked the scarcity of flowers in these dense,
primeval forests. Then the rich, autumnal tints of our
own northern woods are here unknown ; throughout the
months there is the same eternal, unvarying green. Not
willingly would we exchange our OAvn forest scenery for
that of the tropics.
Upon the morning of the 10th of December we discov
ered a few huts upon a low bluff of the river, and, landing.

VIEW OF THE MARAjrON. 293
found Ave were at Camindo, a little Indian village, only a
short distance from the Maranon. That the mighty river
was almost reached, and a life-long desire to be gratified
by a view of its majestic stretches, awakened every feel
ing of anticipation. One more bend of the Napo, and
the great river was before us, rolling its broad volume of
turbid water down between the wall-Uke forest, which
stretched away in the distance until only broken lines
rested upon the water, which soon gave way to an un
bounded horizon. It was the strange solitude which most
strongly impressed us — ^the silently-flowing waters, the
deep forest buried in the torpor of mid-day, their only
possessor the apathetic Indian squatted at our feet.
Drawing ashore upon the point of land just where the
two rivers commence to mingle their floods, we hastily
photographed the scene, Avith the broad expanse of the
Amazons as a watery perspective to several beautiful isl
ands, lending picturesqueness to the view. Reembark-
ing, we bade farewell to the Rio Napo, and our little craft
drifted into the strong current of the Amazons.

CHAPTER XXI.
THE UPPEE AMAZONS.
The River.— Origin of its Name.— Pebas.— Marine Shells,— Geology ofthe
Valley, — Glacial Phenomena, — Farewell to our " Zaparo," — Steam
ers upon the Amazons, — The "Morona." — Maucallacta.— Indians
Alarmed, — Loreto,— Tabatinga. — The "Icamiaba," — Fonte Boa, —
Tefi'e. — " Merry Christmas ! " — Arrival at ManS,os,
We can form only vague conceptions of the magni
tude of the majestic Amazons. Observe its great length,
stretching across the continent almost from ocean to
ocean. Taking its rise less than one hundred miles from
the Paciflc upon the west, it runs a distance of almost four
thousand miles, to pour its floods into the Atlantic upon
the east. But its breadth impresses us most deeply with
its oceanic proportions ; one thousand miles fi-om the sea
it has a width of three miles ; at a distance of flve hun
dred it spreads out ten miles in breadth ; and mingles Avith
the Atlantic along a line of one hundred and fifty. It has
poured into it all the waters rolled doAvn the eastern slope
of the Andes along a stretch of two thousand miles, and
all the floods from the highlands of Guiana upon the
north, and the table-lands of Brazil upon the south. So
gentle is the slope of the valley, from the foot of the Andes
to the ocean, that the Amazons has an average fall of only
six and one-half inches to the mile, and for the last two
thousand miles of its course its fall is less than two inches

ORIGIN OF THE RIVER'S NAME. 295
to the mile. But notwithstanding this almost absolute
level of the river-valley, so vast is the volume of water
that presses toward the sea, that the Amazons sweeps
down Avith a current that tears away its banks Avith thefr
load of forest, and mottles its floods with islets of grasses
and with trees torn from its shores.
Although we apply the general term Amazons to the
whole river, the natives designate different portions by
different names. From its mouth to the Rio Negro it is
termed Amazons ; the part between that river and Taba
tinga, or the Peruvian frontier, is called Solimoens ; while
from Tabatinga to the Andes it bears the name Maranon.
All are famiUar with the origin of the name Amazons —
how Orellana, having deserted Pizarro upon the Napo,
floated doAvn that stream, and reported to have seen,
upon the banks of the great river, a tribe of female war
riors, that naturally suggested the fabled Amazons of the
Afric Hesperia, or of the Thermodon of Pontus ; hence the
application of the name to the river upon which they were
encountered. The foundation for this story of a nation
of women-warriors is clearly shown by Wallace, in the
following observations upon the Indian tribes of the
Uaup6s, one of the tributaries of the Rio Negro : " The
men, on the other hand, have the hair carefully parted
and combed on each side, and tied in a cue behind. In
the young men, it hangs in long locks down thefr necks,
and, with the comb, which is invariably carried stuck in
the top of the head, gives to them a most feminine ap
pearance; this is increased by the large necklaces and
bracelets of beads, and the careful extirpation of every
symptom of beard. Taking these circumstances into con
sideration, I am strongly of opinion that the story of the
Amazons has arisen from these feminine-looking warriors
encountered by the early voyagers."
We found navigating with our little craft more dan-
14

296 THE UPPEE AMAZONS.
gerous upon the Amazons than upon the Napo ; we were
in constant danger from the sudden squalls which swept up
the river from the east. For greater safety, we kept close to
the banks, that we might more quickly run the " Zdparo "
into some sheltered spot, upon the approach of a storm. In
many places the banks were lined Avith faUen trees, mark
ing the encroachment of the river upon the forest. SAviftly
we were borne dovm the Amazons, and upon the second
day from the mouth of the Rio Napo we reached Pebas,
a little Indian village located upon a high bluff on the
left bank of the Ambiyacu, a small stream floAving into the
Amazons from the north. We here met Mr. Hauxwell,
an English naturaUst, who was making this place his tem
porary home while engaged in securing collections. Here
we delayed several days, awaiting the arrival ofthe steamer
from the upper Peruvian waters. The toAvn of Pebas is
rendered healthful by its elevated position, which gives
it the influence of the easterly trade-Avinds. The popula
tion is made up of Orejones and Yagua Indians, who, for
the greater portion of the time, are scattered in the forest,
upon the banks of the little streams and lagoons, engaged
in fishing and hunting, as the immediate vicinity of the
village affords insufficient game. These Pebas Indians we
found the most abject and indolent of any that it was our
misfortune to be dependent upon east of the Andes. As
far as we could ascertain, they seem to have no idea of a
Good Spirit ; yet they entertain vague conceptions of an
EvU Spirit, that is the source of all Ul-success in their war
and hunting excursions. The Yaguas, upon the .death of
any member of their tribe, bury the deceased in his own
hut, which is then deserted, and all his other possessions
destroyed. Here avc found, interstratified with the clay of the
bluff upon which Pebas is situated, a stratum of ma-

GEOLOGY OF THE VALLEY. 297
rine shells ; * the supposed bearing of which, upon the
interpretation of the geologic facts of the Amazonian
Valley, has been made known by Prof. Orton. There is
here an interesting question relative to intertropical gla
cial phenomena. Prof. Agassiz, after careful and extended
examination of the deposits, concludes that an ancient gla
cier once ploughed through the Amazonian Valley. From
the report of a paper on the valley of the Amazons, read
August 20, 1870, by Prof. Orton, before the American
Association for the Advancement of Science, we quote the
following : " The conclusion reached was that facts were
incompatible Avith the existence of an equatorial glacier,
and even of an intertropical cold epoch." Setting aside
all generalizations, let us look at naked facts — see what
evidences of glacial action have been found in these tropi
cal regions.
The geologic formations of the Amazonian Valley have
been carefully studied by Agassiz, and are given by him
as, first, a coarse arenaceous material, resting upon a cre
taceous formation, indications of which appear about the
edge of the valley ; then a deposit of finely-laminated
clays, overlaid by sandstone, fully eight hundred feet in
thickness. This has been subjected to denuding agencies,
which, toward the lower portion of the valley, have re
moved, in some instances, the entfre thickness of the de
posit, leaving isolated, flat-topped mountains, such as the
hills of Almeyrim, which form the most conspicuous ob-
* Mr. Conrad, to whom these sheUs were submitted for identification,
gives the number of species as seventeen, aU extinct, belonging to nine
genera, only three of which are now represented. The following list
contains the most important ; others may yet be added : Isaca Ortoni, I.
Lintea, Liris laqueta, Ebora crassilabra, E, bella, Hemisinus sulcatus,
Dyris gracilis, Neritina Ortoni, Bulhnus linteus, Pachydon (Anisothyris)
tenuis, P. carinatus, P, obliquus, P, erectus, P, cuneatus, P, ovatus, P.
.altus, and a bivalve aUied to MuUeria.

298 THE UPPER AMAZONS.
jects in the scenery of the Lower Amazons, and mark the
thiclmess of the formation. Resting unconformably upon
the sandstone thus denuded, lies a deposit of clay, of a
brownish-red color, showing slight traces of stratification.
Agassiz, finding in these vast deposits no fossUs of any
kind, with the exception of a few leaves, disposes of the
question of their origin, by supposing them to be glacial
formations, deposits in a vast fresh-water lake, into which
the valley was converted upon the breaking up of the
glacier, which, flowing from the Andes, crowded between
the highlands of Guiana and Brazil — ^the mouth of the
valley being closed by an immense moraine barrier. By
these peculiar circumstances, under which Agassiz sup
poses these formations to have been deposited, he accounts
for the absence of fossils in them ; and to the giAdng way
of the barrier, and the escape of the waters of the lake,
he refers the origin of those "hills of denudation" to
which we have alluded, located in the lower portion of the
valley. The finding of marine or brackish-water shells at
Pebas militates against this theory, unless it can be shown,
as Agassiz suggests, that they are accidental, or belong
to a post-glacial formation, resulting from a submergence
of the continent, such as is knovm to have taken place in
North America, after the close of the ice-period. But,
although these shells prove the marine or estuary origin
of the formation with which they are identified, yet they
prove nothing more. We should be cautious, and not
proceed in advance of our facts. These, as we now pos
sess them, simply allow us to limit glacial action here.
They may permit us, perhaps, to infer that portions of the
formations, or even that the main deposits of the Ama
zonian Valley, are not of fresh-water or glacial origin.
But we are committing an error, if, from these data, with
a hasty examination of the equatorial flora, with reference

GLACIAL PHENOMENA. 299
to a determination of the question Avhether or not there
has been an intermingling of different floras, such as is
thought would be attendant upon a cosmic Avinter, we
make the assertion that there has been no " intertropical
cold epoch." The question respecting the origin of the
principal deposits of the Amazonian Valley affects only a
theory, while the one of an intertropical Avinter brings us
in relation to facts. No theory which militates against
facts, pronounced as such by our most accurate observers,
can prove subservient to the cause of truth. The fact of
the existence of ancient local glaciers in the tropics will
not admit of a hasty denial. Let us note some observa
tions made by explorers of the valley. We make from
" A Journey in Brazil " the foUoAving quotation, which
gives the results of Prof. Agassiz's researches among the
serras of CearS,, near the picturesque little village of
Pacatuba : " On this very serra of Aratanha, at the foot
of which we happen to have taken up our quarters, the gla
cial phenomena are as legible as in any of the valleys of
Maine, or in those of the mountain of Cumberland in
England. It had evidently a local glacier, formed by the
meeting of two arms, which descended from two depres
sions, spreading right and left on the upper part of the
serra, and joining below in the main valley. A large
part of the medial moraine formed by the meeting of these
two arms can still be traced in the central valley. One
of the lateral moraines is perfectly preserved, the village
road cutting through it ; while the village itself is built
just within the terminal moraine, which is thrown up in a
long ridge in front of it. It is a curious fact that, in the
centre of the medial moraine, formed by a little mountain-
stream, making its way through the ridge of rocks and
bowlders, is a deUcious bathing-pool, overgrown by
orange-trees and palms." Upon the side of the serra of
Erere, on the northern shores of the Amazons, opposite

300 THE UPPER AMAZONS.
the hills of Santarem, are erratic bowlders, masses of
hornblende. Upon the Rio Negro, just below Rio Branco,
we discovered ledges of compact hornblende, to which we
have already alluded.* Will not these throw some light
upon the origin of the bowlders of Erer6 ? In collating
all the evidence of ancient glaciers, found in the moun
tains about the valley, we must not fail to mention a fact
obtained by Agassiz from the careful and reliable observer
Dr. Felice. He states that in the southeastern part of the
valley, running from Serra Grande to the Rio Arucaty-
Assti, is a wall-like accumulation, composed of the usual
debris of moraines, which has an extent of one hundred
and eighty miles. Passing from the vaUey of the Ama
zons, but still remaining within the lines of the tropics,
Ave flnd other unmistakable traces of glaciers. In the vi
cinity of Rio de Janeiro, Agassiz found the surface of
the rocks upon which the drift rests characterized by
those peculiar undulations recognized as one of the dis
tinctive marks of moving ice-masses, and which are termed
roches moutonn'ees. Erratic bowlders fill the drift, differ
ing so essentially from the rocks in place as to leave no
doubt as to the fact of their transportation from a dis
tance. Among the equatorial Andes we find evidence of
the snoAV-line having formerly been lower than at present.
We have already alluded to the vast accumulation of sand
and gravel, termed the arenal, resting upon the fianks of
Chimborazo, several hundred feet below the line of per-
j)etual snow upon that mountain. Its Avhole character
indicates a glacial formation. Dr. Loomis found traces
of glaciers, such as ground and striated rocks, and mo
raines, upon the Peruvian Andes. We certainly must not
ignore such facts as these, in our search for an interpreta
tion of intertropical geology. These facts appear to indi
cate an intertropical winter — at least, such a reduction of
*See page 189.

GLACIAL PHENOMENA, 301
the temperature as to cause a lowering of the snow-line
upon the Andes, and the formation of local glaciers among
the serras of Brazil. What are required, in order that we
may be able to read correctly the geologic history of South
America, are more careful research and greater caution in
making hasty generalizations from insufficient data. If
we may rely upon the facts gathered, the question is one
not respecting the existence of an "intertropical cold
epoch," but simply of the limitation of glacial action^ or
ice-phenomena, under the tropics.*
* Since the above was written and placed in the hands of our pub
lishers, a new volume has appeared from the pen of Prof, Hartt, of Cor.
neU University, who is at present (November, 1870) in BrazU, having
charge of an expedition from the university above named. This work,
" Geology and Physical Geography of BrazU," is the most accurate and
exhaustive account of the geologic and topographical features of that
country that has ever been given to the public. Every part shows the
presence of the careful and discriminating observer. Upon an examination
of the work, we were pleased to find that what we have said above, rela
tive to glacial phenomena, is fully corroborated, and aU fairly placed, by
the researches of this eminent geologist, beyond conjectural ground. To
the evidences of glacial action in equatorial America, gathered by Agas
siz, and which we have given above. Prof, Hartt adds a long series of phe
nomena, as the results of his own explorations during two journeys in
BrazU, Upon page 29 he says : " I desire to record here the fact that I began
my studies of the Brazilian drift with a conviction that Prof Agassiz was
wrong, and I feel much gratified that my independent observations have
so fuUy confirmed the results of his own," After speaking of the
phenomenon, so observable in Brazil, of the decomposition of gneiss
rock in situ, and the marks that distinguish the material thus resulting
from true drift, he goes on to give, in different portions of his work, evi
dences of drift found in the coast-provinces of BrazU, " from the Bay of
Rio Janeiro to the Amazons," Prof, Hartt regards the sandstone and
clays of the Amazonian VaUey as tertiary deposits, thus limiting glacial
action, as we have supposed, in our remarks above, facts demand in
South America ; yet, in exact correspondence with the views we have ven
tured, he says : " My conclusions, after aU, do not affect his " (Agassiz's)
" theory of the former existence of glaciers under the tropics, down to the
present level of the sea, a theory which I hold as firmly as he," B-at, for

302 THE UPPER AMAZONS.
Upon the afternoon of the 16th of December the
steamer " Morona " arrived from Iquitos, a thriving little
town about one hundred and fifty miles above Pebas,
upon the left bank of the Maranon. It was Uke bidding
farewell to an old friend, to part with our little " Zaparo,"
which had so long been our pleasant home, and that had
fioated us safely through six hundred miles of the great
forest. We left it moored in the waters of the Ambiyacu,
with our Indians busily engaged in tearing it to pieces, in
order to disencumber their canoes.
The first line of steamers upon the Amazons was es
tablished between Para and Manaos, in 1853 ; the second,
from the latter town to Tabatinga, upon the BraziUan
frontier, in 1858 ; the thfrd, in 1862, whose vessels navi
gate the head-waters of the river as high as Chosoba, in
Peru. The presence of steamers upon the Amazons, in
connection with the Pacific and Atlantic lines which gir
dle the continent, has done, and is doing, more for the
dcA'elopment of that country than all other infiuences
combined. It has been the absence of means of inter
communication that has rendered the progress of South-
American states so slow and unsatisfactory. Brazil has
at length awakened to the truth that rapid and cheap
transportation, the consequent outgroAVth of untrammelled
competition, is the most effective agent in securing na
tional wealth and growth. On September 7, 1867, she
threw open the Amazons to the competitive commerce of
all nations. The steamers upon that river and its tribu
taries are transforming the country. Their shriU whistle
seems to awaken the slumbering natives. Quite a heavy
trade has already sprung up in India-rubber, Brazil-nuts,
cacao, coffee, cotton, sarsaparilla, tobacco, horses, cattle,
further information relative to these interesting questions, we must refer
our readers to the work itself, which is a valuable and permanent contri
bution to the geology of our southern continent.

THE "MORONA." 3O3
dried meat, hides, pirarucu-fish, turtles, turtle-oil, copaiba,
and guarana.
The " Morona," which took us aboard at Pebas, was a
SAvift fron steamer, especiaUy adapted for navigating the
rapid Peruvian waters. At nearly twenty mUes an hour
she dashes down the river, her engine driving the more
strongly when the current strengthens, in order to render
her control by the helm possible. Captain Raygada was
acquainting himself Avith the intricacies of EngUsh, whUe
his associates, who were EngUshmen, were returning the
compliment by familiarizing themselves with Spanish ;
the cook was from the Celestial Empfre; consequently
there was a babel of languages upon the " Morona." Three
hours from Pebas brought us to Maucallacta, a small In
dian vUlage, where we anchored for the night, and took in
wood. Upon the first introduction of steamers on the
Amazons, these Indians, as might be imagined, were fear
fully alarmed. They had been sufficiently long under the
instruction of the padres, to have fire and smoke vaguely
associated in thefr minds Avith that region which it would
be desirable to avoid. So, when the steamer came plough
ing up the river, puffing out columns of black smoke, and
occasionally giving a terrible scream, they very naturally
supposed that the agent of the EvU One had come for
them ; and, when " the devil's boat " — ^which their distort
ed imagination pictured the monster to be — approached
thefr toAvns, they took to the forest, and not until con
vinced that the thing couldn't run on land, did they be
come reconciled to what seemed to them an infernal con
trivance. From Maucallacta we dropped down to Caballochocha,
where we passed the night of the 17th, and th« next morn
ing steamed doAvn to Loreto, the last Peruvian town met
in descending the Maranon. It is located upon a bluff,
and, with its church and the whitewashed walls of its

304 THE UPPER AMAZONS.
huts, presented a pleasing contrast to the vUlages we
had hitherto passed. Thus we spent several days drop
ping slowly down the river ; and finally, upon the 20th, we
cast anchor off the frontier BrazUian town of Tabatinga.
This village consists of eight or ten buildings, only a por
tion of which, however, are visible from the river, as they
stand a little back from the edge of a high bluff. Taba
tinga is a military post, and from some rude earthworks
several guns look down upon the river. The commandahte
of the post, sharing the enthusiasm springing up through
out this new and undeveloped country for collecting natu
ral-history specimens, had gathered quite a menagerie,
which he proposed sending to Rio Janeiro.
Late in the afternoon of the 20th, the Brazilian steamer
" Icamiaba " arrived from Manaos, and, bidding fareweU to
the " Morona," we embarked upon this vessel, and the fol
lowing day steam and current were bearing us SAviftly dovm
the river. Travelling upon the Amazons is attended with
as few discomforts as are experienced upon our OAvn north
ern waters. We lived upon deck. This was covered and
arranged with a table through the centre, where our meals
were taken, so that we might enjoy the grateful breeze
created by the movement of the boat. We found the
deck also a delightful place to swing our hammocks at
night. Late in the evening of the first day from Tabatinga
Ave reached San Paulo, a coUection of huts inhabited by
Ticuna Indians, where we received a little freight, and
again weighed anchor. Notwithstanding the extreme
darkness, we ran all night, and about ten the foUoAving
morning arrived at Tunantlns, a village of a score of
houses, located upon a stream of the same name, whose
waters are black from being steeped in the forest that
rises directly out of the stream. Early in the morning
of the 23d we anchored in front of Fonte Boa, located

"MERRY CHRISTMAS." . 305
upon the Cayhiar-hy, several mUes from the Amazons.
The naturaUst Bates speaks of it as fearfully infested by
mosquitoes, and not without reason ; for, no sooner had
our steamer stopped, than these pests boarded our vessel,
and drove us from our hammocks, which arrangements
afford admfrable facUities for such attacks upon all sides.
This village is situated midway between the Atlantic and
Pacific civilizations, receiAdng the influence of neither;
the last not extending beyond Loreto, the most eastern
Peruvian toAvn, and the former being felt but Uttle above
Manaos, at the mouth of the Rio Negro. From Fonte
Boa we steamed down all day, Avithout finding the least
indication of life, until late in the evening, and then only
by leaving the Amazons and steaming up one of its south
ern tributaries, the Teffe, where we found the town of
Ega, containing a mixed Portuguese, Indian, and Negro
population of about one thousand. Leaving Ega we
again entered the Great River, and steamed on and down
between the eternal walls of eternal green.
We miss upon the Amazons the sloping banks and
beautiful villas so characteristic of our northern rivers.
As we glided down day after day, there was always the
same blank horizon ahead, the same torn and crumbUng
banks rising but a few feet from the water's edge, and the
same giant forest walling the river upon either side. To
us, accustomed to northern scenery, there was a strange
ness to that tropical nature, which always produced a feel
ing of l&neliness, and constantly reminded us of the dis
tance of our home. We recall now a little incident Ulus
trative of this, that occurred upon the morning of the
25th of December. We were swinging in our hammocks,
which were, as usual, suspended on the deck, when the
famiUar wish of " Merry Christmas," from one of the more
thoughtful members of our party, suggested with unusual

806 THE UPPER AMAZONS.
vividness home and distant friends, and suddenly trans
ported us to the midst of a cheerful winter scene. But
the strange exotic nature that surrounded us called back
our thoughts, and told us that our home was far distant.
Dark, tangled forest, overtopped by palms resting their
drooping heads against the bronzed sky, the afr quivering
with the heat of the advancing day, and vpide stretches
of water, mottled Avith green masses of floating grass,
was the scene that ushered in Christmas morn to us, upon
the lonely waters of the Upper Amazons.
Early in the afternoon we reached the mouth of the
Rio Negro, with whose black waters the yeUow Amazons
refuses to mingle, and sweeps proudly by, crowding the
waters of the Negro close to the northem bank. The eye
can distinctly trace for some distance doAvn the stream the
line which separates the waters of the two rivers. This
strange aversion of these waters to joining is repeated in
other fluvial systems ; thus the red floods of the Missouri
manifest a decided antipathy toward uniting Avith the inky
waters of the Upper Mississippi. Before the confluence
of the Rio Negro and Amazons, the latter, from a Avidth
of several miles, contracts to a breadth of less than one,
makes a bold sweep to the north, and meets the former al
most at a right angle ; then, as it passes its mouth, turns
again to the east, giving the Negro the appearance of
being the main stream, and, were it not for the different
coloring of their waters, one would be sure to mistake the
relation of the rlA'ers, and the Amazons would be pro
nounced the tributary. The mouth of the Rio Negro is
twenty miles in width ; but we enter a channel only two
miles wide, formed by the northern bank and a low island,
whose forest rises dfrectly from the water. A short hour
upon this black stream brought us to Manaos. It was
here that we entertained the faint hope of meeting the

ARRIVAL AT MANAOS. 30 7
Caracas party ; but, realizing perfectly the improbabUity
of such a union of the divisions of the expedition, we
were prepared for the inteUigence that nothing had been
heard from them. As we recalled the dangers of our own
wanderings, and the one we had left behind, we could not
but entertain many apprehensions for the safety of their
little party.

CHAPTER XXII.
THE LOWER AMAZONS.
Departure from Manaos — Our Steamer. — ^Monkeys, — Madeira River. — ^Rise
and Fall of the Amazons, — Flooded Forest. — Igarap^s, — Victoria
Regia, — ^VillaBella. — ^Mountain Scenery, — Straits of Obidos, — Tides. —
Santarem, — ^Breaks in the Great Forest, — Oceanic River. — Natural
Canals, — Forest, — ^Para Estuary, — Para. — Commerce ofthe Amazons.^
Settlement of the Valley, — A Pleasant Meeting, — Farewell to tho
Tropics, Just at evening on the 26th of December we stepped
aboard the steamer, and started for Para. We were
now upon the last thousand-mUe stretch of the Great
River. The " Tapajos," our steamer, abounded Avith mon
keys, turtles, anacondas, and other denizens of the forest,
presenting the appearance of a floating menagerie. The
most observed and observing of all were the monkeys, of
which we had a large number aboard; some promenaded
the deck Avith freedom, or climbed the rigging, now and
then engaging in sportive play with the passengers, or
picking a quarrel with their more unfortunate anthro
pomorphous companions. One large, serious fellow, al
lowed the run of the boat, took infinite satisfaction in
noting the approach of meal-times ; then in stationing
himself above in some unobserved position, and, upon
the appearance of the steward, bearing upon his head food
for the table, in helping himself. Once the dish contained
hot soup, which he could not so readily appropriate, and he

MONKEYS. 309
expressed his chagrin, by maliciously capsizing the vessel,
distributing its contents over the steward. Among other
species was the little spider-monkey, or ateles, the smallest,
most beautiful, and interesting of all the monkey-tribes.
Its expression bears a startling resemblance to that of a
child, and seems almost as indicative of emotion as the
human countenance. They are very sensitive to cold, and,
upon the lowering of the temperature, if but a few de
grees, they may be seen interlocking their long, slender
arms and taUs, forming a very cozy-looking heap. One
of the favorite pastimes of monkeys is to search one another
for parasites; the parent, with its offspring between its
legs, carefully examines it for any thing of a parasitical
nature, and, when successful, gives evidence of apparent
gratification. The day following our departure from Man4os, Ave
passed the mouth of the Madeira, which, after a course of
two thousand miles, pours its vast volume of water into
the Amazons, yet without causing much appreciable in
crease either in its width or in the strength of its current.
Below the Madeira, the aspect of the Amazons was changed
by the great number of floating patches of grass, brought
down by that tributary, which was now swollen from the
rains of the wet season that was advancing from the
south. These tropical rivers are often fringed with wide
borders of aquatic vegetation, which, at the time of high
water, are torn away, and floated in vast meadow-lUie
islands doAvn the current.
This leads us to speak of the rise and fall of the rivers
of the Amazonian Valley. They are not all subject to
rises at the same time ; for so great is the breadth of the
valley, and so widely separated are the head-waters ofthe
northern and southern tributaries, upon opposite sides of
the equatorial line, that the periodical rains of the tropics
are felt upon the one set of affluents several months be-

310 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
fore their influence is felt upon the other. Along the
line of table-lands and mountains that feed the southern
tributaries, the rainy season commences about September,
gradually swelling those streams, which slowly roll their
floods toward the centre of the valley, reaching the Ama
zons Avith their highest waters about the last of February
or the first of March. Simultaneous with these contribu
tions from the south, the streams along the slope of the
Andes are adding thefr swollen waters to the great river.
At this time the Rio Negro, as we have remarked in
speaking of that river, is lowest, and its mouth is dammed
up, and its current even turned back by the mass of water
fi-om the southern tributaries. By February the rainy
season is flooding the highlands of Guiana and the CordU
leras of Colombia, when the Rio Negro and the other
northem affluents carry down their gathered floods, at
taining their greatest rise in June, by which time the
southern rivers have fallen. Thus but one set of tributa
ries is acting at once, to lift the level of the Amazons.
Should both simultaneously roll down their accumulated
spring floods, the forest in the centre of the valley would
be almost submerged. As it is, the Amazons rises be
tween forty and fifty feet above its lowest level, and the
valley for several mUes either side of the river is laid un
der water. Some Avriters, from the manner in which they
have spoken of the inundation of the valley, leave the im
pression that its whole extent is flooded as completely as
the Llanos during the spring-tides of the Orinoco. But
the portion of the plain overflowed is comparatively small.
At the time of the highest rise, the forests are flooded
back probably not more than an average of fifteen miles
fi-om the banks of the river, while the greatest Avidth of
the valley is over seven hundi-ed miles. This is true of
the Amazons only between the mouth of the Tapajos and
Upper Peru, a distance of seventeen hundred mUes. Be-

FLOODED FOREST. SU
low the tributary named, the highlands of Guiana on the
north, and those of Brazil on the south, crowd closer upon
the river, narrowing the valley, so that we no longer find
those extensive lowlands so characteristic of the river val
ley above Santarem. The flooded tract is called gapo,
and the narrow, overarched channels intersecting the
half-submerged forest are termed igarap'es, which, in the
Lingoa Geral of the Indians, means canoe-paths. Some
of these run parallel to the Amazons for immense dis
tances. Wallace, in his " Travels on the Amazons," says :
" From Santarem to Coari (a distance of eight hundred
miles), a person may go by canoe in the wet season
without once entering into the main river. He will pass
through small streams, lakes, and swamps, and every
where around him wUl stretch out an illimitable waste
of waters, but all covered with a lofty virgin forest. For
days he will travel through this forest, scraping against
tree-trunks, and stooping to pass beneath the leaves of
prickly palms, noAV level with the water, though raised on
stems forty feet high."
In the lagoons and quiet waters of these flooded re
gions grows that wonder of the vegetable world, the Vic
toria Regia, the " Royal Water-Lily of South America." *
To Mr. J. F. Allen, a reliable authority in matters relative
to its discovery and introduction in the conservatories of
Europe and the United States, we are indebted for the
foUoAving historical material. It was flrst discovered, in
1801, by the celebrated botanist Haenke, upon the Rio
Mamore, a Bolivian tributary of the Madefra, who, as
says his fellow-traveller. Father La Cueva, upon first be
holding the plant in its native waters, "fell on his knees
in a transport of admiration." The plant was next seen,
* This plant is sometimes erroneously termed Victoria Regina.
Schomberg, beUeving it to belong to the genus Nymphaea, named it
Nymphsea Victoria : it, however, constitutes a distinct genus.

312 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
in 1820, by M. Bonpland, near the junction of the Parana
and Paraguay Rivers. It was afterward met Avith by
other travellers, but Sir R. H. Schomberg, who found it
in Guiana, in 1837, was the first to attempt to introduce
it in cultivation in Europe and our own country. The
immense leaves are nearly circular, four to six feet in
diameter, and float upon the water ; the edge being raised
so as to form a rim about three inches high. The under-
surface presents a remarkably ridged appearance, from the
prominence of the ribs which constitute the frame of the
gigantic leaf. These veins are nearly an inch in height,
and consist of eight main ones radiating from the centre
of the peltate leaf, strengthened by cross-ribs, thus form
ing a strong support. This net-work, with the calyx, is
covered with long prickles, as is also the petiole, which is
an inch in diameter, and which lengthens rapidly to adapt
itself to the deepening waters during the periodical swell
ing of the rivers. The color above is a vivid green, while
below it is a purplish crimson. The beautiful, fragrant
flower is twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, Avith petals
six inches in length, and is at first of a pure white color,
gradually assuming a rose-tint after its expansion. The
leaves will support a great weight. They have been
knoAsm to uphold one hundred and fifty pounds — a cover
ing being placed upon the leaf to equaUze the pressure.
The Indians are said, while engaged in gathering the
seeds, which they use for food, to cradle their infants upon
the leaves, which are first covered with a Ught skin.*
Two hours after passing the mouth of the Madefra,
Ave reached Serpa, a little Indian vUlage of about seventy
houses, located upon a clayey bluff twenty-five feet above
the ordinary level of the river. One hundi-ed and thirty
miles beloAV Serpa, upon the south bank, stands Villa
Bella, where we took on rubber and pirarucu, which, Avith
* See frontispiece.

STRAITS OF OBIDOS. 313
cacao and guarana, are the principal exports of most Ama
zonian toAvns. Larger quantities of the last are shipped
from Villa Bella than from any other town upon the river.
This article, the fifth in importance of the exports of the
Amazons, is manufactured from the coffee-like fruit of a
spreading shrub (Paullinia sorbilis), eight to ten feet in
height. These seeds are roasted, ground, then formed
into a thickened paste, and pressed into moulds of various
and often fantastic shapes. When grated into water and
sweetened, it makes an agreeable and refreshing beverage.
Its medicinal properties also render it an excellent stimu
lant, and a good astringent, successfully used in cases of
dysenteric diseases.
Before reaching Obidos we were greeted, for the first
time since bidding farewell to the Andes, by mountain
scenery ; for like mountains appeared to us, long accus
tomed to the dead uniformity of the Amazonian Avilder
ness, what were in fact low hills that occasionally rose
above the forest. About three hundred and thfrty miles
below Mandos are the Straits of Obidos. Here the Ama
zons, which above this point spreads out three or four
miles in width, narrows to less than a mile, with a depth,
according to Lieutenant Herndon, of thirty or forty fath
oms. The velocity of the current, as it pours through the
contracted passage, is about four miles per hour during
low water, increasing to upward of five in the rainy season.
Although six hundred miles from the sea, the influence of
the tides is here perceptibly felt, raising the river several
inches. The river never flows backward at this point, but
the rise is occasioned by the damming up of the water be
low, which causes a slackening of the current, and a lift
ing of the level of the river. At Gurupa, nearly' three
hundred miles below Obidos, the tide is five feet ; at Para,
a distance of seventy miles from the sea, fifteen feet. The
higher the tides at any place, the less is the river there af-

314 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
fected by the wet season : thus, at three hundred miles from
the mouth of the Amazons, there is no perceptible change
in the level of the river, except through tidal influence.
At the narrowest part of the strait, upon the north
bank, stands posted upon a high bluff the neat little town
of Obidos. The village is quite regularly laid out and
free from that rank growth of vegetation v/hich defaces
the squares and streets of most Amazonian towns. Seventy
miles below Obidos we cast anchor off Santarem, located
just at the mouth of the Tapajos, one of the great south
ern tributaries of the Amazons, whose apparently black,
yet clear-blue waters, form a strange contrast to the turbid
current of the Great River. The tOAvn has a mixed Por
tuguese and Negro population of over two thousand ; being,
next to Para, the largest city upon the Amazons. Grassy
plains stretch out from the town, and enable cattle-raising
to be carried on extensively. Cacao is largely cultivated ;
while recent experiments prove that the sugar-cane can be
even more successfully raised here than in our Southern
States. At Santarem we found a large number of rebel emi
grants who were there seeking a home. This suggests
one word relative to that colonization scheme, which has
met with such indifferent success. When recent political
movements in our country culminated in emancipation, it
was not strange that former slave-holders ghould look
about to see where they might be allowed the privUege
of enjoying their favorite institution. Brazil, as an open
ing field for enterprise, immediately presented itself. The
Brazilian Government extended every inducement, de
fraying expenses of transportation, offering bounties, and
giving grants of land. Every thing seemed to favor the
plan of colonization ; and large numbers of emigrants
from the South, burning with hatred toward the old flag,
because it now gave liberty and equal rights to all, estab-

BREAKS IN THE GREAT FOREST. 315
lished themselves upon the coast of Brazil, and along the
banks of the Amazons and its tributaries. But, lacking
that energy and persistence indispensable in bringing this
new and undeveloped country under cultivation, they soon
became dissatisfied, and many abandoned the undertaking
and returned home. Besides, there were to them other
discouragements. Movements in Brazil point toward
a speedy emancipation of her slaves. The probability,
and, indeed, certainty, of such an event, deterred these
Southern slave-holders from investing largely in a property
which might any day be rendered valueless by govern
mental enactment. They saw that the system was doomed,
and that the movement in our country was but a precursor
to that which promises speedily to give freedom to the last
slave upon both continents. We met some, who, having
spent thousands in prospecting the country for selecting
a site, were returning home, and who expressed their
determination to accept gracefully the situation. Their
short tour in the equatorial regions had done them good ;
it is only to be lamented that more did not make the
trip. BeloAV Santarem the low forest frontage along the
northern bank of the river is broken by grassy plains,
and upon the south are also spread out quite extensive
campos between the rivers Tapajos and Xingu. These
savannas are the first break in the great forest which
otherwise covers the valley from the slope of the Andes
to the Atlantic. Humboldt, relying upon the information
of others, speaks of the savannas of the Rio Napo ; but
we found a dense forest to extend over all that portion of
the valley. Messrs. Smith and Lowe were unable to find
the Pampas del Sacramento, which we find laid doAvn upon
most maps as breaking the forest between the Ucayali and
the HuaUaga. The eminent explorer Wallace has shoAvn,
by his researches upon the Uaup6s, that the plains of Ca-

316 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
guan, in Colombia, are much less extensive than once sup
posed. These last hardly interrupt the forest, for we may
consider them as lying between the two great valleys of
the Amazons and Orinoco. What a grand, unbroken sweep
of forest in this vast Amazonian plain !
It requfres a little over seven hours to run from Santa
rem to Monte AMgre, which is situated upon the north
bank, a Uttle back from the shore, and partly raised upon
a hill, backed by a low, marshy forest, beyond which rises
a low range of flat-topped hills. The name of the town
means gay mountain, and Mrs. Agassiz's first impression
was, that it scarcely deserved its title. Prof. Agassiz's
party ascended the river; one must float doAvn the long
stretch of the monotonous Amazons, to appreciate the hill-
scenery of Monte Alegre. After passing Monte Alegre
the Amazons assumes a grand Avidth, its shores separating
ten miles, and appearing as indistinctly-traced lines resting
upon the water. Nothing impresses one so deeply Avith
the magnitude of this mighty river as to aUow the eye to
wander over these ocean-Uke expanses, and watch the
white caps as they break along Avith almost the violence
of an open sea. While upon this portion of the river we
encountered severe storms traveUing up the stream, that
often raised so heavy a swell that the movement of om-
steamer brought on feelings painfuUy suggestive of ocean
experiences. As we neared either shore, occasionally a
native's hut or a charming villa would look doAvn from
the bluffs, or appear half-buried in the dense vegetation
of the river-bank. Along the northern shore extended
the table-topped hills of Almeyrim, varying from a few
hundred to nearly a thousand feet in height. These were
the last hills seen upon the Amazons. Upon the south
the grass plains were burning, and by night the reflection
of the flames lighted large tracts of the horizon.
The 30th of December we passed the little vilLages

PARA. 317
Prainha, Porto do Moz, and Gurup4, and, three hours below
the last, turned into the channel Tajapurfl, which leads
from the Amazons into Para River. This channel is, in
fact, a maze of deep natural canals joining these two estu
aries. We wound about amid innumerable islands, some
times passing through channels so narrow that the over
hanging boughs brushed our steamer as it crowded through.
As we crept along these intricate water-paths, we had
afforded us a fine opportunity to study the low forests that
cover these half-submerged islands. Palms entered more
conspicuously into the woods than they had done farther
up on the Amazons. Among the many species may be
seen the moriche, croAvned with its cluster of fan-like leaves ;
whUe not less conspicuous are the tall, slender stems of
the bacaba and assai. From the berry-Uke fruit of the
latter is made a delicious beverage, the favorite drink of
Paracuses. The low islands are inhabited by Portuguese
and Indians, whose miserable hovels are posted upon piles,
to keep them above high water.
Just before emerging from this labyrinth, Ave stopped
at Breves, a little Portuguese vUlage, located upon the isl
and of Maraj6, the last port before reaching Para. A short
run brings us upon the great estuary of Par4, or " Father
of Waters," as the word signifies in the Indian language. It
is still an open question whether or not this should be con
sidered as one of the mouths of the Amazons. Wallace
believes that no water finds its way from the Amazons into
the Para estuary, through the channels that connect the
two, and he consequently considers it as forming no part
of the Amazons, but as being simply the estuary of the
Tocantins, Capim, Aripana, and other rivers, that empty
into it from the south. Agassiz discovers that Maraj6,
from its geological formation, must not be considered a
delta j)roper, but simply an island, once far up the Ama
zons, Init now brought near its mouth by the encroach-

318 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
ment of the ocean, whose currents have worn away the
northeastern portion of the continent. Hence he would
call the Para estuary one of the outlets of the Amazons,
and would obtain one hundred and eighty miles for the
width of the river at its mouth. Rejecting the Para es
tuary, we have left a width of one hundred and fifty miles,
which is, at least, the smallest estimate that can be given
as the breadth of the Great River.
The last day of the year we arrived at Para, or Belem,
as sometimes called.* The city stands upon the right
shore of the broad estuary of Para, seventy miles from
the Atlantic, and sixty mUes south of the equator. A
dense tropical forest crowds upon the city, and half buries
the outskfrts beneath its encroaching vegetation. Para was
founded in 1615, and now comprises a population of above
thirty thousand mixed Negroes and Portuguese. The In
dian element, which so largely predominates in most other
Amazonian toAvns, is here sparingly represented. A smaU
number of American and EngUsh residents infuse com
mercial Ufe and enterprise. Pard is destined to become
the first city of South America. It is the centre toward
which gravitate all those commercial interests springing
*' The foUowing estimate of distances was obtained from the Ama-
zonian Steamship Companies. The towns left blank we have added, as
they are also stopping-places of the steamers :
From Par4 to Breves  150 mUes,
" " " Gurupa   252 "
" " " Porto do Moz 
" " " Almeyrim 
" " Prainha  375 "
" " " Monte AUgre 
" " " Santarem  466 "
" " Obidos  536 "
" " " VUla BeUa  626 "
" " " Serpa  756 "
" " Mangos  872 "

COMMERCE OF BRAZIL. 319
up on the Amazons and its tributaries ; all the immense
resources of that tropic valley avUI, when developed, form
the material from which will be built up here one of the
largest ports of the New World. Almost all the trade
of the city is carried on with European powers. We
have been strangely indifferent respecting the commerce
of Brazil and- the Amazons. Although her next-door
neighbor, we have scarcely any trade Avith that empfre
— Portugal's is larger than our own. According to a
recent estimate, we purchase more than twenty-five mil
lion dollars' worth of Brazilian products annually, the
greater part of which come to us by the way of Europe.
This state of non-intercourse between us and Brazil is un
natural ; the valleys of the Amazons and Mississippi are
the complements of each other; the products of our
Western States are just such as are demanded by tropical
BrazU, while BraziUan products must flnd their way,
either by direct or indirect trade, into the Mississippi
Valley. Here, at our very door, Ues a country of immense
extent, whose important products are numberless, and such
as we must have ; stiU, we allow the trade of these regions
to be monopoUzed by countries across the Atlantic. This
anomalous course . of trade is the result of a strange in
difference and misapprehension, on our part, respecting the
importance to us of Brazilian commerce. Yet even the
trade carried on Avith Europe is small ; and for this fact
we flnd explanation in the unwise imposition of heavy
tariffs upon exports by the Brazilian Government. BUnd
to the immense advantage that would result from unre
stricted commercial relations Avith other countries, Brazil
has imposed heavy duties upon the most important exports
of the Amazonian Valley, as coffee, cotton, and wood, pre-
A-enting free exportation of these great staples, and their
conversion into gold. For illustration, there is a tariff
upon exported wood of fourteen per cent., and, as a result.
15

320 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
the entire duty received at the custom-house of Para dur
ing the year 1868, upon wood exported, including fire
wood for ships, was only three hundred and fifty dollars !
Were duty upon this last article removed. Great Britain
alone would ship hundreds of cargoes of the massaran-
duba, or "cow-tree" (Brosimmn galactodendron), for
railway ties and sleepers, in damp situations, where this
timber would last for decades. For situations exposed
to the weather, the deap'tH is unsurpassed iu durabiUty;
palisades in Para, built of this wood, stand at present
in as good condition as when constructed forty years
ago! We learn, through James Henderson of Para, to Avhom
we are indebted for the facts already given, that a Mr.
Morrison has recently established a saw-mUl and planing-
machine on the Amazons. There are two or three other
mills of the first character in the valley; so that the
valuable woods can be readily put in avaUable form for
home use or exportation. There has hitherto been a great
scarcity of lumber ; boxes in which we transported our
collections from Para to New York were made of boards
imported from the States ! In order that capital may be
led to engage in developing and giving to the world the
valuable and inexhaustible natural and cultivated prod
ucts of the Amazonian Valley, two things are needed :
first, that Brazil remove all restrictions to trade, by at
once abolishing the absurd tariff upon exports ; secondly,
that she shall render the waters of the valley vfrtually, as
they are now nominally, open to free competition, by
ceasing to subsidize the established lines of steamers,
which act, in its practical workings, as effectually dis
courages competition as though the waters of the river
were closed against foreign vessels. With these restric
tions removed, the trade of the Amazons would necessarily
spring into gigantic proportions. That tropical valley is

COLONIZATION. 321
a vast storehouse, which is' destined, when fully opened,
to change the commercial relations of the world.
Closely allied to the question of the commerce of the
Amazons, is the one of its colonization ; for, although the
exports of the valley at -present are, and for decades must
continue to be, in the natural products of its exhaustless
forests and great streams, still, the larger part of its trade
must ultimately consist in cultivated productions, as cacao,
coffee, cotton, tobacco, and sugar, all of which can be
successfully raised within the limits of the valley, and
with even better returns than in our Southern States.
Now, while the native population can be largely depended
upon for the collecting of the products of their virgin
forests, still, the indolent, unenterprising Indo-Portuguese
inhabitants of the valley cannot be hoped to develop the
full agricultural capabiUties of the country. This, if done
at all, must be effected by European or North- American
colonists. There are fewer discouragements to a well-
conducted scheme of colonization than generally supposed.
The climate of the valley is not excessively warm, nor is it
insalubrious ; the mean annual temperature at Para is 80°,
and Wallace found the greatest variation during four years
to be only 25°. One thousand miles inland from Para it is
but one or two degrees warmer than at that point. The
open nature of the valley to the east allows the equatorial
trade-winds to sweep its entire length, which, while miti
gating the heat, render comparatively ¦ salubrious the
broad river-channels that feel their influence. Our party
never enjoyed better health than while upon the Amazons
and its tributaries. Intermittent fevers are less frequent
on these rivers than on our own Western and Southern
waters. The wide tract of forest along the rivers, that is
subject to inundation, frequently pushes bluffs above high-
water mark, as if purposely to provide sites for villas and
towns. The districts periodically flooded receive a rich

322 THE LOWER AMAZONS.
deposit, and are admirably adapted to the cultivation of
the cacao and banana ; the flnest plantations of these we
have observed stood upon ground laid deep under water
during the annual overflow of the river. Thus every thing
leads us to hope that, as soon as Brazil is sufflciently
awakened to her own interests to lift from these regions
the incubus of governmental restrictions, a foreign popu
lation will spread itself over the shores of the great river,
and upon the banks of its tributaries, and secure to the
world the immense wealth of this tropical valley.
A pleasant and unexpected event occurred toward
the close -of our stay at Para. Upon the I6th of Janu
ary, the guns of the fort announced the arrival of the
steamer from Manaos. Curiosity took us to the wharf,
where we watched the little boats, loaded with passen
gers, as they pushed from the vessel, that had dropped
anchor a short distance from the city, and pulled to the
shore. All had landed save one, and we had turned away,
when a familiar call directed our attention to the boat,
that had now neared the wharf. There was the Caracas
party ! That was a joyous meeting. Paracuses doubtless
thought us demonstrative. But that was what Para had
never seen before, and probably never avUI again — the
union of two expeditions across the continent, from the
north and west, and their arrival upon the Atlantic within
two weeks of the same date. But there were only two
of the Caracas division. Where was the third ? Attacked
by the fever of the lowlands of Venezuela, he had been
obliged to return homeward. Then came inqufries for our
companions. One had sailed for Rio Janeiro, another for
New York. But where the artist ? Then we told them
of the lonely grave among the Andes. Was it strange
that the flrst night of our meeting we forgot to sleep, and
that the morning found us telling of adventures experi
enced since our parting at New York ?

EMBARKED FOR HOME. 323
Upon the I8th of January we bade fareweU to Para,
and upon the " Tigres " embarked for home. As we passed
slowly doAvn the Para River, the shores became more and
more indistinct, and, while we were still upon its turbid
waters, land entirely disappeared. From the mouth of
the river we sailed directly to Barbadoes, one of the
Windward Islands of the West Indies. Here we delayed
one day, the Sabbath, and then again weighed anchor.
In the gray light of the morning of the llth of February,
we welcomed the snowy hills of Neversink; soon we
were pushing through the floes of ice that choked the
harbor of Ncav York, and in a few hours the cars were
bearing us rapidly along the banks of the ice-locked Hud
son, toward our home. Nothing impressed more deeply
upon our minds the equatorial scenes we had left, than the
strange contrast between the snow-clad banks of our
frozen Hudson and the forest-fringed shores of the ever-
verdant Amazons. Pleasant were our wanderings, and
ever vivid Avill be our recollections of Nature under the
Tropics.

BRIEF EEOOED OF AN EXPEDITION T(3
CENTRAL AMEEICA.

The expedition, of which this chapter is a brief record,
was also from the same institution that sent out the one
whose history has already been given. Our party -left
WilUamstOAvn, Mass., the 14th of November, 1870, for the
tropical regions of Central America. Proceeding direct
to Washington, our route from there led us over the his
toric ground of Manassas, Bull Run, Rappahannock, Cul
pepper, Rapidan, GordonsvUle, Lynchburg, each spot
refreshing our memory with experiences and events of the
war. Here was recognized an "old camp-ground" or
bivouac, there the line of some weary march, or the scene
of a terrible carnage. Leaving the oak woodlands and
pine-barrens of Eastern Vfrginia, we entered amid the
ranges of the Blue and Alleghany Mountains, where smil
ing vaUeys and Avild and romantic Nature present more
inviting fields and a pleasant contrast to scenes behind.
Sweeping over these mountain-ranges we passed into the
charming district of Eastern Tennessee ; caught a hasty
glimpse of Knoxville, then on to Chattanooga, another
historic spot of the war, and soon we were skirting the
base of Lookout Mountain, which towered up proudly in
the evening tAvilight. The following morning found us
rolling over level, fenceless plains — the war-wasted fields

326 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
of Northern Alabama. Next Mississippi invites us to its
pine woodlands, its cotton and sugar-cane estates ; then
the low and marshy lands of Louisiana, and on the after
noon of the 21st we entered New Orleans, the great me
tropolis of the Southwest. Two days later we embarked
upon the steamer " Grange," bound for British and Spanish
Honduras. In the early morning of the fifth day of our voyage
from New Orleans we cast anchor off Balize, or British
Honduras, as sometimes called, where we delayed until
evening, and by daylight the next morning were Avithin
the spacious harbor of Puerto Caballos. The town, which
is the northern terminus of the interoceanic railroad now
constructing across Honduras, comprises some fifty pahn-
leaf huts, raised upon pUes to elevate them above the low,
marshy soil. A dense forest, that encroaches upon the
settlement, spreads out to the south into the great plain
of Sula, while to the westward of the harbor lofty moun
tains lift their cloud-capped summits six thousand feet
above the sea. From Puerto CabaUos we came by boat
to Omoa, about fifteen miles up the coast, tarrying a while
in our passage at the Carib village of Ceineguita, which,
nestled beneath its groves of cocoa-nut palms, presents a
most charming picture.
Omoa is an antiquated Spanish tOAvn, numbering be
tween two and three thousand inhabitants, situated a little
back from its small but secure harbor, at the base of high
mountains whose slopes are densely clothed with a tropi
cal vegetation. It constitutes the most important place
upon this coast of Honduras, and has long been its chief
port of entry from the north. The British consul, who
has a residence here, is one of a number of merchants that
supply the trade in the interior, sustaining in it the little
vitality it possesses. One of the striking features of the
place is the large fort called FU Castillo de San Fernando,

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 327
which was erected by the Spaniards at a cost of forty
million dollars. We can readily forgive the petulant
query of the King of Spain, who, upon hearing the cost,
is said to have asked whether it was buUt of gold or
silver. The general outline resembles a quadrant of a
circle situated Avith the arc toward the harbor. The sides
adjacent to the right angle are each one hundred and
forty-six yards in length, forming an enclosure of a little
more than two acres. The walls are twenty-five feet in
height and about eight in thickness. The material is
hewn stone, much of it coral-rock, which must have been
brought from reefs about twenty miles distant. The fort
still remains in a good state of preservation ; even the
watch-towers seem to have suffered but little fi-om the
disintegrating storms of the many decades that have
passed since their erection. A few soldiers, scarcely de
serving the name of a garrison, are stationed here, while
the spacious magazines and apartments within the en
closure serve the purpose of a prison.
Besides fortifying the port, the Spaniards constructed
at a great expense a camino real, or royal road, leading
from Omoa to the capital, Comayagua. Upon the steep
mountain-sides, where the road was in danger of being
washed by the rains, a pavement of stones about six feet
wide was laid, which in many places is as firm now as
when first made. The frosts of our Northern winters can
not be recorded among the destructive agencies here.
The road at present, though hardly worthy the name, is a
narrow mule-path, and generally follows the Une of the
old camino real.
The only means of conveyance from the coast to the
interior is by mule ; and these we sought for the trans
portation of our party and baggage over the mountains
to Comayagua. But, unfortunately, all animals of every
description had been gathered for work upon the new rail-

328 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
road of Honduras, and we were unable to secure the needed
ones. So, after a delay of three days, four of the party
pushed forward on foot, leaving Messrs. Gates and Ide to
follow with the luggage as soon as mules could be sent
from the interior, where we were in hopes of obtaining
them. The wet season upon the coast had not yet ter
minated; rains were frequent, and the mountain-roads
such as only the tropics are capable of presenting. The
trail led us at first over the alluvial lands of the coast ;
the broad opening through the forest being thickly car
peted with creeping- mimosas (Mimosa pudica) whose
sensitive leaflets, closing as we passed over them, pre
sented the appearance of a Avrithing mass of animated
beings. Above us towered gigantic mahoganies, ceibas,
laurels, cedars, and other forest monarchs, many loaded
with great orchidaceous and other epiphytal plants ; while
lianas, or vines, like the cordage of a vessel, interlaced
their branches, and aerial roots of arums, reaching to the
earth, hung suspended from then- lofty summits. Here
the thorny vine of the sarsaparilla twined itself about the
rank vegetation, and the parasitic vanilla clung to the
trees. Cahoon (Spanish, coyoT) and other palms lifted
their feathery plumes amid the luxuriant, exogenous
growth; parrots, macaws, great-bUled toucans, and other
bfrds with gay plumage, were perched upon the trees and
flying over our heads.
At times we were taken upon the very shore of the
sea, where the surf rolled up beneath our feet ; and then,
deserting the beach, we again entered the Adrgin forest.
At length, two leagues from Omoa, the road turns up the
cordillera, taking us now through a deep glen or between
narrow cliffs rising high above our heads, oftentimes arched
over with forest-boughs too closely braided to admit the
entrance of the sun ; then again we toiled up some precip
itous declivity, across mountain-ranges, which occasionally

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 329
afforded, through openings in the dense foliage, gUmpses
of the surrounding hills clothed in eternal green. Sec
tions of the road were paved, the remains of the camino
real of the early Spaniards; elsewhere mud and water
filled the narrow passes, rendering travelling exceedingly
laborious. Now and then we discovered a hut almost
hidden in its plantain-trees in some lovely glen, or
perched upon some bold eminence. Flowers were scarce
in these deep forests ; but nowhere do we recollect of hav
ing seen in such abundance so great a variety of ferns,
many of them before unknoAvn to us, which here covered
the rich, humid soil, the trees and rocks.
Our first night from Omoa was passed at Rancho
Grande, a single house near the summit of the cordillera.
Having made the passage of the mountains, we entered the
plain of Sula, a rich growing region, where the luxuriance
of Natm-e finds but little restraint from the hands of the
agriculturist. Passing a small settlement of laborers on
the line of the new railway, we soon reached the Rio
Nance, where is another temporary village like the former.
The second day from this village we arrived at San Pedro.
We here estabUshed ourselves a few days, and then re
moved to a pleasant rural home, christened St. Anna,
upon the banks of the Rio Piedras — river of rocks. After
much difficulty and a week's delay, two animals were ob
tained and forwarded to Omoa for the waiting members
of the expedition. Four days later our party were again
together, and planning their farther advance into the in
terior. Messrs. Gates and Ide, during their two weeks'
stay upon the coast, had made a fine collection of bfrds ;
the other members of the expedition, at San Pedro, had
added many specimens to their various departments.
Upon the 19th of December, we left for Comayagua,
our baggage being carried by mules, while we preferred
to make the journey on foot ; and, although the distance

330 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
was nearly fifty leagues, the fatigues of the march were
forgotten in the enjoyment of the varied and beautiful
scenery — nowhere surpassed. For a distance of sixteen
leagues from San Pedro the road passes beneath a dense,
tropical forest, filled with cahoon-palms, whose leaves, from
thirty to forty feet in length, bend toward the earth in
most graceful curves. Sometimes these palms, by thefr
•curving boughs, form beautiful vistas, recalling to the
traveller wandering beneath thefr shade the springing
arches and rich tracery of some magnificent cathedral.
The tall, columnar shaft of the royal palm, and the thorny
trunks of others, also rose throughout the forest.
Passing our first night at the beautiful village of Llano
Viejo, the next day we passed Santiago, and shortly after
noon were upon the banks of the Rio Venta, one of the
principal tributaries of the Ulua. After much loud shout
ing, we caused Charon to make his appearance upon the
opposite shore, who came to our relief, ferrying us with
our baggage over in a large canoe, whUe our animals were
made to swim. In this manner are all the unfordable
streams of Honduras crossed, for bridges are unknown,
even upon this royal road of the country.
Vegetation now began to change, palms giA'ing place
to groves of gracefully-bending bamboos, which, when
tossed about by the winds, appear like fields of AA'heat
swaying in the breeze. From these we entered a country
covered with a low forest interspersed with small, rocky
savannas. Limestone pierced the soil in ledges and im
mense bowlders, while broken masses of the same strewed
the earth in the greatest profusion. Two miles from Portre-
rillos we crossed by ferrying the Rio Blanco, whose waters
are white, Avith a temperature of seventy-five degrees
Fahrenheit, seven degrees colder than those of the Rio
Venta, crossed the day previous. Late in the afternoon
Ave emerged from the forest and entered Yojoa, whose

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA, 331
Avhite-Avalled dwellings with their red-tiled roofs presented
a neat and pleasant appearance. On one side of the great
plaza stood a pretty chapel, and a fine stream flowed
through the village, adding to the picturesqueness of the
place by its sparkling cascades.
Parting from Yojoa, we deserted the level forest ex
panse through which we had travelled for over twenty
leagues, and rose into higher and colder altitudes, passing
)ver ridges of scattering pines, beneath which grass car
peted the earth, recalling the picture of an English lawn.
In places the pines are interspersed with scrub-oaks which,
often superseding entfrely the former in a savanna-like
valley, resemble a Northem orchard. Now and then we
descended into a picturesque valley glowing in the rich ver
dure of both temperate and tropic zones, where the palm,
the cecropia, the bamboo, and the American aloe, con
trasted Avith the pine supporting great orchidaceous epi
phytes upon its branches, the tAvining clematis, the purple
convolvulus, the common dandelion, and other northern
plants. Higher up among the cordiUeras these signs of a
Avarm climate were less frequently met, and we were made
to realize that we were passing into colder regions. In
these higher cordiUeras but Uttle animated life is seen or
heard, and the cool winds moaning through the pines alone
break the solemn stillness of these wild solitudes. The
long, funereal moss that clothes the trees waves mourn
fully in the breeze, adding a deeper gloom to the aspect
of these mountain-regions.
One of the most bleak and desolate of these mountain
passes is the height of Carrizal. We were making its pas
sage upon the afternoon of the 23d, when darkness over
took us, and, no longer able to distinguish the rocky trail,
we were compelled to pass the night upon its summit.
Weary from our march and fastings of the day, we spread
our blankets beneath the pines, and packed ourselves

332 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
closely together, that we might be protected as much as
jDossible against the cold winds of the mountains. A heavy
rain that fell unintermittingly during the night added to
the uncomfortableness of our position. In the morning,
making our way down the mountain, we were not long in
reaching the Avretched village of Carrizal.
Christmas and Sabbath was spent at Ojos de Agua.
Our quarters Avere in the cabildo, or court-house, and here
we stretched ourselves upon the benches that surrounded
the room, onr hammocks and blankets being wet from the
rains of the mountains. We can recall some nights passed
more comfortably. The morning of the 26th we again
pushed on over granitic, limestone, and red-sandstone
ridges, with silica in many varieties — quartz, jasper, flint,
and opal — in places completely paving the road. In one
mountain-glen we observed Avith pleasure some arbores
cent ferns, that most beautiful form of vegetation in
Flora's kingdom, Avith stems eight to ten feet in height,
terminated with a cluster of deUcately-pinnated leaves.
Three leagues on, we descended into the charming valley
of Jamalteca, and, rising from this over an intervening
range, we found ourselves AAdthin the not less beautiful
plain of Espino. At a small vUlage in the last-mentioned
valley, we halted for the night. But where Nature has
done so much, where the soil is of exceeding fertility,
where flowers and vegetation grow so luxuriantly, man
has done but little, and what might be a land of plenty
is a land of famine. Nothing could we obtain for our
poor beasts, and we ourselves fai-ed but little better.
From this beautiful spot we climbed a lofty mountain-
range, and from its summit beheld the long-wished-for
A^alley of Comayagua.
The elevated vaUey or table-land of Comayagua, one of
the finest sections of Central America, is situated nearly
midway between the oceans, at an elevation of about two

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 333
thousand feet. Its length is about forty mUes, and it is
nearly half that in its greatest breadth. High mountains
rise upon either flank ; those upon the west attaining an
altitude of between eight and nine thousand feet. Pines
and oaks clothe thefr rugged slopes, while a denser forest
of tropical vegetation skirts their base. The plain sup
ports a low growth of trees and bushes, interspersed with
cacti of every form. The valley of Comayagua is truly
the home of the cactus. Some rise in tall, cylindrical
shafts, thirty and forty feet in height, resembling at a dis
tance the half-faUen columns of some imposing ruins;
some spread out in arboreal proportions, Avith trunks
sometimes six feet in circumference ; others of a slender
form curve to the earth, or tAvine about the trees ; and
others still, swelling into bulbs, resemble huge melons
with prickly integuments. Agaves and yuccas, Avith
their tree-like peduncles clothed Avith flowers, hedge the
plain, and stud it in clusters, thefr spiny leaves caution
ing both man and beast against a too near approach.
Gum-Arabic or acacia bushes fill the air with the fi-a-
grance of their flowers ; and the Avild calabash-tree, covered
with thousands of epiphytal plants, and Avith its huge
globular fruit attached to its trunk and larger branches,
finds here a home. In cultivated plots are the plantain,
orange, and pine-apple, with Indian corn and northern
fruits and vegetables. Upon the mountains, and in the ele
vated valleys about Comayagua, the strawberry and black
berry grow spontaneously, and wheat, with other cereals,
is raised. In the southern portion of this beautiful valley, blest
by Nature with a climate that is equaUy favorable to
products of every zone, is the city of Comayagua, the capi
tal of Honduras. To a traveller approaching from the
north, the first sight of the city presents a marked con
trast to that of any other tOATO or vUlage passed through

334 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
on the route from the coast. Here, instead ofthe simple,
mud cottages thatched with grass or the leaves of the
cahoon-palm, Ave see the white walls and tiled roofs of
comfortable dwellings, built in blocks as in modern cities,
and forming straight and regular streets. Entering the
city, we are led, by following almost any street, to the
plaza, that centre of business to every Spanish town.
Here we find tradesmen of all classes — from the wealthy
dealer in dry goods, to the humble cobbler, all clustering
around the public square.
Comayagua was founded in 1540, by Alonzo Caceres,
under the order of King Charles of Spain. In 1827, the
number of inhabitants reached eighteen hundred, but in
that year Guatemala, in one of its Avars with Honduras,
destroyed a great portion of the city. It has made but
slow progress in being rebuilt, and now the population is
not more than seven thousand. Fronting the plaza upon
the east, stands the old cathedral, built when the city was
in its infancy, and bearing the marks of more than three
centuries that have passed since its erection. At another
corner of the square is the court-house, or cabildo, where
ahvays may be seen a collection of muleteers, who are
here provided with lodgings free of expense. This is
quite a convenient institution in Honduras, as in other
Spanish countries. A stranger can always find a comfort
able apartment in any of the court-houses built by the
government in nearly every town of respectable size.
Opposite the court-house may be seen, through the day,
a company of huckster-women having for sale the various
edibles upon which the muleteers, as well as the soldierS;
subsist. On one of the streets leading directly off the
plaza is situated the government building, the front part
of which contains the public offices, while in the rear are
the barracks of the soldiers. The soldiers receive in pay
ment for their services the sum of one real (twelve and a
half cents) a day, and board themselves.

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 335
Besides the cathedral, there are several smaller eccle
siastical edifices in the city, and religion seems to be more
prosperous than in most other parts of the country, being
conducted by regularly-educated priests. In the smaller
toAvns the women officiate in rude chapels, or, in the ab
sence of such places of worship, the Virgin is carried from
house to house where service is observed. Once every year
thousands of devotees of the Catholic faith make a pil
grimage to the great church of Esquipulas in Guatemala.
On the 15th of January, the great day of the Church,
multitudes are there gathered not only from every part of
Central America, but also from the more distant countries
of Mexico and South America, to fulfil their vows, and do
homage to " Our Lord of Esquipulas." There is also held
at this time a great fafr in this Holy City, and the pilgrims
come laden with articles of barter. The New World has
its Mecca as well as the Old.
Comayagua, situated midway between the oceans, in a
valley unsurpassed for fertiUty, with a climate at once
pleasant and salubrious, with the prospect of the great
interoceanic railway, now in process of construction, pass
ing through its limits — Avith all these advantages it might
be supposed that the city possessed every requisite for
being a great metropolis. But a country that is burdened
by Spanish civilization and Catholicism, with their accom
panying evils, can never take an advanced social or politi
cal position. But it may be asked. May not Honduras,
by the introduction of a foreign element, assume a more
satisfactory position ? At San Pedro, in the rich plain of
Sula, a colony of three hundred Southerners, Avho were
disappointed in the result of the late rebellion, sought
homes beyond the limits of the " Stars and Stripes." The
climate proved fatal to some ; others, becoming discouraged
upon the failure of cotton, to the cultivation of which prod
uct they devoted their principal attention, returned soon

336 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
to the States ; and in less than two years from the time
that the colony was planted it was broken up, and now
but four persons remain in the country. Individuals and
famiUes from different countries have settled in various
places in Honduras, but during the course of our travels
we found not a single person Avho was not anxious to re
turn to the enjoyment of his former home.
Comayagua, the seat of government of Honduras, Avith
all its civil and ecclesiastical edifices, boasts of but one
hotel, kept by Dona Magarita, a Spanish senora of sur
passing physical proportions. Possessing no conveniences
for lodgers, we were content to get our meals at such
hours as best suited her capricious fancy, securing a large
apartment in another house where we SAVung our ham
mocks, and which also answered for reception-room, studio,
work-room, a general receptacle for baggage, and our mis
cellaneous collections.
We had been two days at Comayagua when Mr. Un
derwood joined us from San Pedro. In company with two
fellow-travellers he had come via Lake Yojoa, deserting
the camino real at Santa Cruz, from which town the lake
is distant twenty-five miles. In his memoranda of the
journey, in speaking of the lake, he says : " Ascending to
the top of a high hill, the lake lay spread out before us,
not a ripple disturbing its smooth surface. The shore
upon which we stood was comparatively low, but fi-om the
surface of the water on the opposite side mountains towered
up to the height of ten thousand feet, their base covered
with dense forests, while their summits, rocky and jagged,
stood outlined against the sky. We seated ourselves, and
gazed with intense admiration upon this the most mag
nificent scene we beheld in Central America, To our left
Ave could trace the lake for miles, shut in by mountains,
and seemingly without any outlet, while far away to our
right we could just discern the Omoa Mountains, like

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA, 337
clouds in the distance. When we arrived the sun was
shining, and the atmosphere was perfectly clear ; but in a
few moments the scene had entfrely changed. Great
clouds came drifting over the mountains above us until
thefr- tops were shut in from our view, and the surface of
the lake was lashed into a mass of foam. One of those
fierce storms so common in the tropics was upon us. Our
guide informing us of a cabin a short distance down the
lake, we hastened to its shelter. Seating ourselves in the
door we watched the fierce play of the elements without,
until almost as quickly as the storm had arisen the sun
shone out, first Ughting up the rocks far above us, and
then iUuminating the whole surrounding scene. Parting
from our friends of the cabin we mounted for a hut a mile
farther on, where we intended staying that night, and the
next morning going in a canoe down the lake."
Lake Yojoa is about thirty mUes long and four or five
wide, and is the largest body of water in Honduras. It
is located over two thousand feet above the sea, and about
a hundred higher than the plain of Comayagua. From
the northem extremity of the lake flows the Rio Blanco,
while at the southern end there are two outlets, both of
which are large streams, the Sacapa and Jatique, the latter
floAving through a subterraneous passage for over a mUe,
emerging in a SAvift, foaming torrent. On the eastern
shore of the lake a spring of water nearly a hundred feet
in diameter gives rise to a stream as large as the Rio
Blanco, the northem outlet of the lake. From percolat
ing through the limestone of this region its water is tinted
a deep blue, from which it derived its name, Agua de
Azul. Wild water-fowl are in great numbers along the
borders of the lake, and abundance of flsh exist in its
waters. But to return from this digression.
The flora and fauna of Comayagua are exceedingly in
teresting, comprising many species peculiar to that region.
16

338 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
To the former we have afready briefly alluded, and our
botanist secured many a new specimen for his herbarium.
The ornithologist also found his department daily re
ceiving valuable additions ; pheasants, paroquets, bright-
colored orioles, and troupials, the crested jay, and other
ornithic forms no less beautiful. Mammals were less numer
ous, and, inhabiting mostly the mountains, were with greater
difficulty obtained. It was in the warmer districts of the
coast that our mammalogist made the largest addition to
his dej)artment. Of insects, especially Lepidoptera, the
entomologist made a rich harvest, numbering among his
larger specimens the giant morphos which love the deep
shades of the forest. In respect to the mineral resources
of Comayagua and of Honduras, the limited space of this
narrative forbids any extended remarks. For fuU p.ar-
tieulars of the great wealth which lies stored in this
country, we must refer our readers to the valuable work
of Mr. E. G. Squier on Central America. Gold-mines,
although existing, are less common than those of silver.
Owing to the political dissensions which have been so
prevalent in the country, the working of the mines has
been neglected, and many of them wholly abandoned.
While pleasantly engaged at our work at Comayagua
we were interrupted by the calentura, or fever, which
prostrated most of the party, those escaping this being
afflicted with granos, a species of sores, appearing gen
erally upon the limbs, to which unacclimated foreigners
are especially subject. The time which we had allotted
ourselves at Comayagua at length terminating, Avith
Messrs. Gates and UnderAvood still convalescent, we de
termined upon our return northward, leaving the above
members of the expedition to follow as soon as practica
ble. Though the kindness of Mr. G. A. Drew, the con
tractor for the third or southern section of the railroad,
we were generously furnished transportation for our col-

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 339
lections, together with a riding-mule for one of the party
who was StUl suffering from the granos. Upon the 12th
of January, arrangements for the journey being com
pleted, we bade farewell to Comayagua. Owing to our
late start we made but a short day's stage, halting two
leagues from the city at the Pretrero (enclosed pasture-
lands), where a hut offered us shelter. Near by ran a
rivulet with a temperature of seventy-eight degrees, that
furnished the family with their beverage. The water,
however, after standing a few hours in a tinajo, one of the
clay water-jars of the country, becomes deUciously cool.
The next day we recrossed the mountains which environ
the plain of Comayagua, to the valley of Espino, where
we deserted the road by which we had come, choosing the
shorter, but what proved a far more mountainous and
difficult route. Fording the Humuya River Avith the water
nearly breast-deep, we mounted a steep acclivity to a
large spreading savanna, and soon were at Savanna Larga,
a settlement of half a dozen grass-thatched huts.
The sun was already risen when we commenced the
joumey of the day. Leaving behind the rich plain of
Espino, we passed into wilder and more rugged scenes,
Avith here and there a charming dale nestled between the
mountain-peaks. Signs of habitation were occasionally
seen in some thatched hut embowered amid its plantain-
trees. The summits and slopes of the hills were either
barren or maintained a scattered growth of pines and oaks,
whUe the lower lands between exhibited a tropical vege
tation, mingled with familiar eupatoria, helianthi, purple
convolvuli, asters, and other plants known to northern
botanists. CUmbing to the summit of a precipitous range,
we beheld, across a deep and densely-wooded ravine, the
village of Las Cuevas perched upon the brow of an almost
perpendicular cUff. It seemed as if we could almost make
ourselves heard across the intervening valley, but the

340 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
road was a most circuitous one, and we toiled on for two
hours before we had passed around the gulf and sur
mounted the height upon which Las Cuevas was situated.
It was a fiesta-day in honor of the patron-saint of the vil
lage ; and in the evenmg the people were gathered in front
of their little church, with a cfrcle of bonfires to illumine
the scene, and with dancing and music made merry the
occasion. The alcalde, the chief civU offlcial of every
Spanish town, opened for us the cabildo, and extended us
the hospitalities of his own board.
The coming day we entered our old traU at Carrizal,
which we passed Avithout any longings to tarry after our
experiences there when upon our upward journey. CUmb
ing the mountain upon whose dreary summit we had spent
such an uncomfortable night, we halted near our " old
camp-ground " for a refection of leathery rice-cakes and
dulce. Hastening forward, we reached toward evening
the pleasant village of Miambar. In the morning Mr.
Stratton was suffering from a renewed attack of the fever,
but, securing a mule, was able to continue the joumey.
Early that evening we arrived at ConchUla, where the
same hut sheltered us as when there before. Our animals
were tethered upon a small plot of coarse grass without
their customary maize, which we were unable to purchase
for them ; but we ourselves fared better, haAdng a sump
tuous meal of venison, tortillas, and te de Umon, made
from a species of gramen, resembling in its flavor the fruit
whose name it bears.
We now began to encounter the rains which had been
prevailing in these lower districts from the time we left
them. The roads, at first slippery with mud, by the time
we reached Yojoa became excessively bad. Our mules
toiled laboriously along, floundering desperately through
the mud and water, often sinking to their bodies in the
yielding, clayey soil. We were in part compensated for

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 341
these wearisome marches by being once more amid familiar
tropical scenes. We had exchanged the cold, bleak eleva
tions of the cordiUeras, and thefr comparatively verdure
less lands, for the warmer temperature and rank vegetation
of the tierra caliente — the land of the pahn. The night
of the 19th was spent Avith our EngUsh and American
friends at PortrerUlos. The foUoAving one we passed at
El Plan, when we considered ourselves fortunate in secur
ing as comfortable a place as could be afforded by the
cabildo, which had been converted from its legitimate use
into a dormitory for swine and cattle. We rose an hour
before daylight, and were on the road by break of day,
Avith rain falUng. Near the south bank of the Chamelicon
River, we stopped to examine a hot sulphur-spring, the
temperature of which we found to be 113° Fahr. The
sulphurous exhalations were perceptible some distance
from its borders. Early in the afternoon we recrossed the
Chamelicon, and, two hours later, rejoiced in comfortable
quarters at San Pedro. A small house was rented, our
baggage and collections stowed within, and ourselves
once more estabUshed in our work.
Upon the fourth day from our return, we were joined
by our companions left at Comayagua, when it was de
termined that Messrs. Stratton and Underwood should
proceed at once to Balize, thus affording our botanist a
more extensive field from which to enlarge his herbarium,
while the coast and rivers of British Honduras presented
special inducements for collecting specimens of aquatic
fauna. The next day, the 26th, they took their departure,
going via the Ulua and Puerto Caballos.
The rains, which had been almost incessant during the
past three weeks, now ceased, and we made daily excur
sions about San Pedro, seldom faUing in returning with
rich trophies from Nature's luxuriant fields. In orni
thology, this section Avas especially prolific, both in the

342 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
variety of its species and their numbers. Not soon will
be forgotten our rambles through the forest to the " mill,"
two miles from the village, where parrots, paroquets,
guacamayas, or macaAvs, toucans, the red and green tro-
gon, the scissor-tail, and many other brilliant-plumaged
birds were secured and added to our collections. Among
the more curious species which we found, we may men
tion the chachalaca, or pheasant of the country. It is
nearly twice the size of our wild-pigeon, and possesses the
peculiar characteristic of having the Avindpipe extend
nearly to its taU, just beneath the skin of the body, and
then doubling upon itself and entering at the neck. This
peculiarity is confined to the male ; and, Avith this organ
so extraordinarily developed, it utters a cry that is shrill
and piercing, attracting the hunter, but from its extreme
shyness seldom giving him an opportunity for a near ap
proach. In mammals, this region had many representatives.
Among the nobler ones, the puma, jaguar, tiger-cat (Felis
pardalis), and tapfr, or mountain-cow, are common. Deer,
peccaries, watusas, armadUlos, etc., also abound. Two spe
cies of squirrels and several of monkeys are exceedingly
numerous. The howls of one species of the latter were
heard in the forest every morning and evening. We have
elsewhere spoken of the tremendous noises these animals
are capable of producing. Upon the approach of a storm,
when their sensibilities seem peculiarly excited, and the
state of the atmosphere is also favorable for the propaga
tion of sound, the yells of these creatures are most dis
tressing. The results of our hunting, besides furnishing us with
skins, the first object to be attained, also gave us many
an epicurean dish. The fiesh of the armadUlo and iguana
we found most tender and delicious ; watusas, guaca
mayas, parrots, and other large birds, made excellent

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 343
dishes, while monkey stew and steak were always accept
able. A week after the departure of the BaUze members of *
the expedition, our party was again divided, two going to
Chaparo, leavuig Messrs. Ide and Gates at San Pedro.
Our short stay at Chaparo has associated with it some of
the most pleasant hours enjoyed in Honduras. Game,
especially birds, was most abundant, and some of our
finest specimens obtained in the country were found here.
One large fig-tree, but a few moments' walk from the
village, was our special delight, and frequent visits were
made to this noble monarch of the forest, upon whose
branches, amid its large, shining leaves, could be seen, in
the early morning and at evening, flocks of chattering
parrots and paroquets, the great red and blue macaws, the
orange-breasted toucans, brilliant trogons, troupials, ori
oles, and multitudes of other gay-colored birds, attracted
by the fruit of this forest patriarch. We do not recollect,
in all of our tropical wanderings, beholding a more gor
geous assemblage of birds, presenting the brilliant aspect
of an ornithological cabinet endowed vnth life, motion, and
song. It was a living museum in the midst of Flora's
tropical kingdom.
We were afforded entertainment during our more
leisure hours by several pets, including a pair of macaws,
and one of parrots, that had the run of the house, besides
a large black monkey kept fastened to a tree in front of
the premises. The monkey possessed the characteristic
peculiar to his race — mischievousness — and was never so
delighted as when an unwary pet came within the limits
allowed him by the length of his rope, when, seizing the
unfortunate creature Avith his prehensile tail, he would
drag it after him into the tree, beyond the reach of per
secutors, and there delight in tormenting his victim till
life was almost extinct, when with a fling he would send
16

344 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
it to the ground. One day a number of pigs vdth their
mother strolled within his realms, when in a twinkling
jocko snatched a little one from the group and sprung up
the tree with the squealing creature dangling from his tail.
The enraged parent caught a glimpse of its offspring just
as it disappeared in the tree, too late to save it from its
cruel destiny. In due time, the monkey, in grim delight,
flung it down, killing it in its faU. Watching his oppor
tunity, he soon had a second one, which found a similar
fate. On another occasion, one of the pet macaws, in a
like manner, came to an untimely end. Sometimes matters
were more serious, as when the naked babe creeping with
in reach was seized by the mischievous rascal ; this proved
too heavy a burden for him to mount the tree with, and
the mother, attracted by the cries of her infant, would
rush to its rescue.
The time at length arrived that terminated our visit at
Chaparo, and we prepared to leave for Ceineguita upon
the coast. Collections were packed, we were joined by
the party from San Pedro, and upon the morning of the
18th of February, long before day, we bade farewell to
friends at Chaparo, to whom we were indebted for so
many acts of kindness, and turned our faces homeward.
There was a grandeur in that silent early morning which
inspired us with feelings akin to those we had so often
before experienced when • floating upon southern rivers
beneath a tropical starlit sky. The Southern Cross was
stooping low in the heavens, foUowed by the Centaur with
its bright luminaries now mounting to the meridian, while
other celestial lights, unluiOAvn to the northern traveller,
gleamed throughout the southern firmament. Casting our
eyes northward, we beheld more famiUar constellations,
reminding us of distant homes and friends.
Soon after daylight we were at Rio Nance, where our
party separated, tAvo accompanying the mules with the

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA, 345
baggage over the mountains, the others foUowing the Une
of the railway. The road passes through a low, level val
ley ; on one side rise the mountains of Omoa, five or six
thousand feet in height, their sides covered with the rankest
vegetation, which hides the sharp, angular rocks, giving
an outline of fulness and beauty. On the other side flows
the here sluggish stream of the Chamelicon. All day we
walked in the burning sun, between walls of the forest
where mingled the leaves of the ceiba, cedro, rosewood,
and mahogany, while vines and creepers hung in festoons
from the- branches, or held in close embrace the solid
trunks. But all was not vegetable Ufe. The bright-red,
yellow, and blue of macaws mingled Avith the green of the
topmost branches, or they flew far over our heads with
quick, steady sweep of wing, and uttering their harsh and
noisy notes. Parrots and paroquets chattered continuaUy,
while smaller birds of every color flUed out the choras. In
the afternoon we found one of our American acquaintances
in Honduras, and with him spent the night. An hour's
walk from here, and we came to the section of the road
where rails were being put down. The sound of the ham
mers, the clang of iron, was in strange contrast to the
quiet of our previous life in Honduras. Slowly Civiliza
tion is pushing her way onward. In the land of snows, in
the tropics, she is binding the earth with hoops of iron.
Nothing ever brought home more distinctly before us
than the whistle of the little engine on the Interoceanic
Railway. The entire length of the road, from Puerto Ca
ballos upon the north to Amapala on the Paciflc coast, is
about two hundred and thirty miles. The rise of the first
twenty-five miles from its northern terminus is only thirty-
five feet, and for twenty-five farther, although somewhat
greater, is still scarcely perceptible, while on no part of
the line is the grade heavy. It is only on the first half
of the road that very much has as yet been done, but.

346 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
when the whole is completed, travel and commerce, di
verted from the malarious and costly route of Panama
and Aspinwall, will here find a more direct line through
the salubrious and beautiful regions of Honduras.
Assembled at Ceineguita, the party tarried a few days.
The village consists principally of a single street parallel
with the shore, bordered Avith one-story mud-houses, ex
cepting where one or two Americans have erected more
tasteful homes. The j)opulation, from seven to eight hun
dred, consists chiefiy of Caribs, with a sprinkling of In
dians and Spaniards. Oa the beach we noticed several
boats in process of construction. The hull of one of these,
hollowed out of a single log, was thfrty feet long, nine
wide, and eight in depth. The village is so deeply em
bosomed in cocoa-nut palms as to be scarcely visible from
the water. There are no ancient associations connected
with the place, but the clouds, the tints of the sky, and
the setting sun reflected upon the mountains which lift
themselves above the town, will ever be remembered when
Ave think of Ceineguita.
By a small schooner of flve and a half tons' burden we
reached Balize on the morning of the 24th of February,
and joined those of our party that separated from us at
San Pedro one month previous. Their trip and experiences
had been pleasant, and we record them in thefr own
words :
" Santiago was reached upon the same day on which we
left San Pedro, and on the following one we embarked in
a ' dory,' or canoe, upon the Ulua river. Our stock of
provisions for the voyage was small. Besides dulce, or
sugar, we were only able to procure, by going to every
house in the viUage, half a dozen black, leathery strips of
meat, two feet long, one inch broad, and half as thick. For
other necessaries we had to depend upon game and fruits,
gathered on the river. The distance from Santia<?o to the

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 347
bar of the Ulua is estimated at a hundred and tAvelve miles.
A few hamlets and huts were encountered the first forty
miles ; the remainder of the way was through a wild
though picturesque country, the forest alluvions of the
plain of Sulu. Late in the evening of the first day's voyage
Ave came to the last habitation on the river. Here we
drew up for the night, but secured little rest, owing to
sancudos (mosquitos), which so infest the bank of the
Ulua. The next day we experienced a repetition of the
beautiful scenery we had already enjoyed. The banks of
the river were clothed with a luxuriant tropical vegeta
tion, with mountains in the distance rising out of the
broad forest-levek The mahogany, the ' king of the
forest,' wild-fig, cedro, and other giant trees, reared
their heads high toward heaven. Here was one with its
top fairly flaming with the bright scarlet rays reflected
from macaws perched on its branches; there another
glistened Avith the yellow and black of toucans in its sum
mit ; upon another could be seen -monkeys, playing among
its branches ; everywhere the trees were full of life. Now
a sand-bar stretched out from the shore, and in its shallow
waters were wading large water-bfrds. At any time could
be seen an alligator swimming Avith just its nose and eyes
above water, or lying dreamily upon the sandy shore.
The banks of the river are usually low, and in places
submerged. On the more elevated spots we often found
deserted plantain-groves, nor were lemon-trees wanting,
loaded Avith their fruits.
" Our second night was spent upon a playa. If .we had
little sleep the night before, less did we summon to our
relief this night, for sancudos possessed the banks of the
river. It was with a feeUng of pleasure that at the earh
est dawn we quitted our bivouac without tarrying even
for breakfast. By dark we were at the bar of the Ulua,
where is a small settlement. From here we came by sail-

348 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
boat to Puerto Caballos, taking the steamer at that place
for Balize, where we arrived on the 4th of February."
Balize,* at one time a favorite resort for buccaneers, is
now a British colony, numbering about eight thousand in
habitants, principally negroes. The site of the town is
low aud marshy ; notwithstanding, the place is said to be
salubrious, nor is it unpleasantly warm, being tempered
by the regular sea-breezes. There are several substantial
government buUdings, a neat market, and six churches —
two Episcopalian edifices, besides the Presbyterian, Wes-
leyan. Catholic, and Baptist churches. Although Balize
is rather antiquated, it has its draymen, and we even saw
here a four-wheeled carriage, the first seen since we had left
the States. There are no hotels, and the stranger must find
for himself a home as best he can. Balize has long been
noted for its trade in mahogany and logwood ; but this
branch of industry is now declining, OAving to the removal of
the timber near the coast, so that it must be sought farther
inland. Our quarters in the tOAvn were quite commodious
and comfortable compared with those to which we had
been accustomed. We occupied the second story of a
house furnished with a pleasant balcony that commanded
a fine view of the harbor. Board was obtained with di£.
ficulty, and we finally settled doAvn to keeping house in
regular family Style, buying our provisions, and hiring a
mulatto for cook and general work.
There was but little to occupy us in the immediate
vicinity of the town, and more distant excursions were
made. A trip to the Spanish Keys, ten mUes away, proved
of interest and gave good results. Canoes and smaU sail
ing-boats are always to be had, and in one of the latter we
* " Its name is variously derived from a famous Scotch freebooter who
resorted here, named WaUace (pronounced by the Spaniards Walice or
Balioe), and from the French balise, a beacon.'' (Tlie States of Central
America. E, G, Sqcibr,)

AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 349
were conveyed thither. As we approached the island into
shallow water the beauty of tho sea unfolded itself. Large
heads of Meeandrina, bunches of the branching Madrepora,
and countless species of coral of every hue and form, were
growing upon the bottom,, and so seemingly near in the
clear water that one imagines he could almost seize them.
Fish of bright colors could be seen swimming over and
through the coral forest ; star-fish, sea-urchins, medusae,
and many other beautiful marine animals, filled the water
beneath us. The key, or island, scarcely an acre in ex
tent, is covered with cocoa-nut trees, and inhabited by
two families, who here, in their lonely home, find pleasure
and subsistence in the sea that surrounds them. They
carry on quite an energetic trade in the sale of fish, tur
tles, corals, and shells, to passing vessels and visitors
from Balize. They had also gathered about them numerous
pets, including pigeons, monkeys, and parrots ; one of the
latter having been taught to sing Avith such accuracy that
we at first supposed the notes and the words we heard so
distinctly uttered to be those of a human voice. Our
visit to this Spanish Key proved most fruitful in marine
collections. The old fisherman entered heartUy into the
work of the party, and his " fishing-pots " daily brought
us new and curious specimens of marine life. Corals of
many species were obtained, also the sea-horse, asteroids,
ophiurans, echinoids, holothurians, or sea-cucumber, and
the sea-cow, a species of cephalopod which ejects a fluid
coloring, the water a dark pink, and thus often escapes
capture when pursued.
A trip was also made by Messrs. Stratton and Under
wood to Carozal, a pleasant town somewhat smaller than
Balize, ninety miles up the coast. It is the border settle
ment of the British possessions upon the north, and sus
tains a small garrison to protect the inhabitants against
the inroads of a neighboring tribe of Indians who recog-

350 AN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA.
nize no authority but that of their own chief. Agricul
ture, rather than trade in mahogany and logwood, is fol
lowed by the inhabitants, and large fields of sugar-cane
Avere under cultivation, raised, however, less for the manu
facture of sugar than aguardiente, the curse of this British
colony, as well as all of Spanish America. Among the
collections from Carozal were two stone heads, or images,
exhumed near that town. They exhibit great antiquity,
and are evidently of the same origin as the sculptures found
amid the ruins ofthe ancient temjdes and cities scattered
throughout Central America, and which are viewed with
such intense interest by all travellers to this seat of fallen
civilization. One pleasant excursion, by Mr. Gates and the writer,
Avas up the Balize River, where we spent a few days with
Colonel Mecklin g, an American, who received his title in the
service of the Confederate Army. The river, at the mouth
of which the town of Balize is situated, flows through rich
alluvial timber-lands, affording excellent facilities for the
transportation to the coast of the mahogany, cedro, and
other valuable woods. The low banks, as far as the tides
carry the salt water, are Uned with mangroves, whose
trunks, lifted upon their aerial roots, give the appearance
of a forest growing on a framework of stUts. Above tide
water influence the banks become higher, and narrow
strips of cultivated lands, Avith cocoa-nut groves, border
the river. After a patient pull of six hours, with a brisk
head-wind and strong current opposing us, we reached the
residence of the colonel, who extended us a cordial wel
come. His dwelling was a two-story fi-amed buUding Avith
corridors and convenient apartments, and would not have
seemed out of place as a summer-residence upon the banks
of the Hudson. It was situated upon a point of land
around Avhich the river, there about forty rods wide, made
a graceful bend, and commanded a beautiful, though not

AN EXPEEITION TO CENTRAL AMERICA. 351
extensive view. Thus, exposed to so great a water-front,
it received the full benefit of the river-breezes, which fact
also accounted for the scarcity of insects which are so
troublesome in most parts of British Honduras. Surround
ing the house lay his garden, which showed the richness
of tropical vegetation cultivated by a naturaUst's hand.
Mahogany and tamarind trees afforded an abundant and
pleasant shade. The last mentioned closes its leaves at
evening, unfolding them again in the morning, but is not
sensitive to the touch Uke some species of mimosas. The
cocoa-nut, orange, plum, cotton, and lemon trees, were
also there, together with yams, pineapples, granadUlas,
and sweet-potatoes, whUe the florist could find a large
and choice coUection of the rarest of Flora's beauties.
Our visit to Central America at length closed, and we
engaged passage to New York on a schooner, which
fortunately was lying in the harbor at the time, and left
the port of Balize on the 7th of March, arriving at our
destination after a quick and pleasant voyage of twelve
days.

Il^D EX

Above the clouds, 210,
Agave Americana, 29,
Aguas negras, freedom frominseots,
161,
Agassiz, glacial theory of, 298,
Atabapo, overflow of, 162,
voyage upon, 161,
Alligators, 13, 204,
Altitude of Quito, 226,
Alvino, 67,
Amalgamation, effects of, 232,
Amazonian forest, 252,
forest, breaks in, 315,
rivers, rise of, 809,
vaUey, climate of, 309^ 821,
valley, colonization of, 314, 321,
valley, forest in, 252,
valley, inundation of, 310.
valley, mountains in, 313, 316.
valley, saw-mill in, 320,
Amazons, 263,
breadth of, 294,
no delta to, 317.
fall of, 294.
features of, 316,
first steamers on, 302,
first view of, 293.
first waters of, 265.
futm-e of, 320,
length of, 294,
names of, 295,
origin of the name, 295,
rise of, 309.
scenery upon, 305.
tides upon, 313,
trade on, 302, 819.
travelling upon, 304,
valley of, 265.
width of, at mouth, 318.
Ambato, 221.
Anacondas, 96.
Ancient sea-beaches, 198.

Andes, 1.
as a condenser, 268.
ascent of, 210.
eastern slope of, 268.
first view of, 205.
last view of, 287.
sunset among, 260,
trail over, 216,1
tripartition of, 9,
crest of, 214.
table-lands of, 9,
vegetation upon, 200, 216.
vespers among, 222.
views among, 221,
Annotto, 76.
Ants, 18, 70, 116.
eaten by Indians, 117.
ravages of, 117, 167, 207.
roads of, 117.
Antisana, 245, 269.
hacienda of, 245.
Apure River, steamer on, 88.
Aquatic birds, 101.
Aragua, vaUeys of, 82,
Araquatoes, 74,
Arborescent ferns, 276.
Archidona, 272.
Arenal, 214, SOO.
AspinwaU, 194.
Ateles, 809.
Atures, rapids of, 141.
town of, 144,
tribe of, 149.
AvUa, mountain-range of, 10.
Baeza, 269.
Ballazar, town of, 163,
Bamboos, 72, 204.
Bananas, 131,
Bai-aguan, straits of, 124.
Baroellos, 186.
B4rra, 191.

INDEX.

353

Bats, 138.
smoking out, 114.
vampire, 139.
Baul, town of, 66, 85.
Bees, 279.
ceUs of, 280.
Birds, aquatic, 101.
upon the Llanos, 81.
Bixa Orellana, 76.
Black waters, causes of coloration,
108.
Blow-gun, 144.
use of, 145,
Bodegas, 207.
Bogota, plains of, 10.
Bongo, 66, 77.
Books, difficulty of preserving, 18.
Bowlders, erratic, 300.
formation of, 136,
Brazil-nuts, 183,
Bread-trays, 260,
Breves, 317,
Bridge-building monkeys, 76,
Butcheriog, abnormal, 107.
Cabo Blanco, 6.
Cacao, cultivation of, 46.
fruit of, 46.
Cactuses, 28, 223.
Cactus melo, 187.
Caimans, 73.
Calabash-tree, 26.
Calentura, 84.
Camachina, town of, 162.
Camaguan, town of, 87,
Cambure, 63,
Camino Real, 212.
Campos, 315.
Cana Brava, 31.
Cannibal-fish, 98,
Canoe-navigation, difficulties of, 77.
Canoes, 66.
Caracas, boots in, 18,
cathedral in, 13.
cemeteries at, 19,
churches of, 19,
climate of, 10, 21,
earthquake at, 15,
fovernment-house at, 14.
ouses in, 12.
population of, 12, 17.
prmting-press in, 19,
situation of, 11.
streets of, 12.
university of, 14. .
valley of, i, 10,
vegetation about, 10,
Caribe fish, 98.
Casa Real, 165.

Cassiquiare, 59.
mouth of, 172.
Cattle, wild, 94, 263.
Cave of Ataruipe, 149.
Encantado, 20, 24.
Cemeteries at Caracas, 19.
Cerbatana, 144.
Chica, manufacture of, 284.
Chillo, hacienda of, 236.
Chimbo, valley of, 213,
Chimborazo, 218, 241.
ascent of, 243,
first view of, 205,
not a volcano, 243.
Chiguire, 104.
Chisinchi, ridge of, 225.
Christmas on the Amazons, 305,
on the Rio Negro, 183.
Chuquipoyo, 217.
Churches in Caracas, 19.
Clay, Tabatinga, 157.
Climate of Caracas, 10.
of Guayaquil, 202,
of Javita, 166.
of Maypures, 154,
of Peruvian coast, 200,
of Quito, 227.
of San Fernando, 90.
of Upper Rio Negro, 177.
of Urbana, 120.
of Valley of Amazons, 321.
Clock, repairing a, 169,
Coaches, 35.
Coca River, 285.
Cook of the Rook, 170,
Cocoa-palms, 55,
Coffee, 21, 83, 45.
Colombia, name changed, 9.
Colonel Staunton, 255.
grave of, 266,
his obi eot in visiting the tropics,
256.
Colonization in Brazil, 192.
Condor, 264.
Constellations, southern, 184.
Cotopaxi, 244,
last view of, 287,
plains about, 223,
Cotton, 158.
Cotton-tree, 153,
Cow-tree, 52, 320.
Crater of Pichincha, 247.
Crocodiles, 94.
sleep of, 95,
Curare, manufacture of, 146,
Custom-house reasonableness, 4,
Decomposition of rocks, 124.
Departure from Baul, 84.

354

INDEX.

Departure from Guayaquil, 208.
from Manaos, 308,
from Maypures, 165.
from Napo village, 283.
from Papallacta, 267,
from Para, 823,
from Quito, 265.
from San Fernando, 91.
from Santa Rosa, 284,
from Urbana, 123,
from Valencia, 60.
Dirt-eating Indians, 125,
Dress of Caraguanians, 18,
Earthquakes, effects of, on inhabit
ants, 17,
of 1812, 16.
of 1868, 232.
traces of, 231.
Ecuadorian coast, 200,
Edwards, Mr, George, 278,
Ega, 305.
Eggs of turtles, 126.
Electric eels, 97.
Elevation of Caracas Valley, 4, 10,
of Llanos, 65,
of valley of Aragua, 32,
of Lake Tacarigua, 40,
Encampment, 268.
Epiphytes, 28.
Equiseta, 28, 275,
Farina, 26,
Felis onga, 106,
Ferns, arborescent, 275,
Fever, attacked by, 203.
Fiesta, at Urbana, 113.
Fiestas, 285.
Flooded forest, 109, 310,
Fonte boa, 804.
Fording rivers, 62.
Forest, tropical, 47, 51, 69, 74, 195,
200, 203, 208, 252, 275, 292,
Fossil shells, 263.
Flowers, absence of, 276,
coloration of, at high altitudes,
216,
Game, scarcity of, 170, 263, 276,
Geology of the Rio Negro, 189,
Gilbert, sickness of, 84,
Glacial phenomena, 299, 300,
action, limitation of, 301,
Gnats, 131,
Gold-regions of Guiana, 119,
Grasses, arborescent, 72, 204,
Guacamayas, 180, 288.
Guarana, 313.
Guaranda, 218.

Guayaquil, 201.
climate of, 202,
population of, 202.
Guayas, scenery upon, 203, 206.
Guiana, hiUs of, 110.
Groups of volcanoes, 239.
Gymnoti, 97.
Hacienda, life at, 54,
of Antisana, 245,
ofChnio, 286,
of Itulcachi, 259.
of Lloa, 246.
of Mr. Glockler, 44,
Hammocks, manufacture of, 170.
Hart, Professor, 301.
Harvest of turtles' eggs, 127.
HauxweU, Mr,, 296,
Herbarium, loss of, 84,
Hieroglyphics, 46.
Higuerote, view irom, 81.
Hondachi, 270,
Horses, vrild, 94, 263,
Houses of Caracas, 12,
Howling monkeys, 75.
Humboldt, 16.
Hummers, 217, 288.
"Icamiaba," 304,
Igarapes, 77, 310,
Iguanas, 82,
Inca empire, origin of, 228.
Incas, language of, 282.
poetry of, 282.
roads of, 262.
Indians, Archidonian, 273.
beliefs of, 132, 296.
burial of, 280.
civilizations of, 262.
desertion by, 181.
dirt-eating, 125.
encampment of, 290.
festivals of, 280.
honesty of, 162.
hospitality of, 224.
huts of, 129.
improvidence of, 169.
language of, 129, 281.
Napo, 281.
oddities of, 291,
ornaments of, 151,
Otomac, 124.
taking photographs of, 274.
Piaroa, 151.
separation fi-om, 271.
simplicity of, 182, 303.
tr.aits of, 267.
Waraun, 71, 98.
weapons of, 146, 146.

INDEX.

355

Indians, Yaqua, 296.
Zaparo, 281.
Insects, suiferings from, 147, 154,
290.
phosphorescence of, 150.
Inundation of Llanos, 65, 81, 93.
Ituloachi, hacienda of, 269.
Iquitos, 302.
Ivy, 54.
Jaguars, 106, 91.
Javita, climate of, 166.
isthmus of, 165.
portage of, 165.
town ol^ 164.
Jerked beef, 77.
Jiggers, 105. ¦
La Guaira, 1.
church at, 3.
fortifications of, 3.
population of, 8.
Lake of Tacarigua, 40.
Lataounga, 224.
El VaUe, 27.
Lava-streams, 241, 265,
Life, animal, scarcity of, 170, 176,
253, 276.
Llama, 211.
Llano hut, night at, 80,
Llanos, birds upon, 81,
cattle upon, 94.
elevation of, 65,
extent of, 64.
features of, 64.
fevers upon, 85.
first view of, 64,
inundation of, 05, 81, 98.
life upon, 81,
loneliness of, 78,
scarcity of stones upon, 69.
scenery upon, 87, 99.
wild-horses upon, 94.
Lloa, hacienda off 246.
Loreto, 303.
Lost in the forest, 79.
on the mountains, 48.
Machete, 14.
Madeira, 309.
Maguey, 5, 29, 31.
Mangos, arrival at, 191.
departure from, 308.
situation of, 191.
water-fall at, 192.
Manati, 102.
Mandioca, 26.
Mangoes, 21.
Mangrove-trees, 56.

Maracai, 86,
Mara,i6, island of, 317.
Maiquetia, 5.
Maucallata, 808,
Maypures, village of, 154.
Meeting of parties, 322.
Mimosas, 103, 259.
Mirage on the Orinoco, 126.
Misagualli, 274.
Mocha, town of, 218,
Monkeys, 74, 204, 308.
ateles, 309,
Monkey-bridges, 76,
Monte AliSgre, 316,
Moraiues, 299, 800.
Mor6a, town of, 168,
Mosquiteros, use oif, 100.
Mountain scenery, 63.
Mountains, absence of, 286.
influence of, 262.
Mules, 209 210.
a word on, 34.
trains of, 64.
Musical rocks, 134,
Napo River, Indians upon, 281.
rapids of, 283.
watch upon, 292.
Napo village, 278.
Native mills, 69,
Natives, superstition of, 69.
Nature's chronometer, 156.
solitudes, 216.
Navigating by night, 87.
upon the Portuguesa, 88.
Negroes of Venezuela, 18.
New Granada, name changed, 9.
Obidos, Straits of, 313.
town of, 314.
Orinoco, cataracts of, 141 .
features of, 133.
first view of, 110,
former level of, 185, 153.
rise of. 111.
rooks on, 148.
Ottomac Indians, 124.
Paita, 197.
church at, 198.
Palito, 54.
Palma de cohija, 70.
Pahns, 2, 55, 70, 166, 317.
AsB4i, 317.
Moriche, 70.
on the Orinoco, 150.
Palo de vaca, 52.
Panama, bay of, 195.
town of, 195.

356

INDEX.

Pao, town of, 65,
Pajjaw-tree, 51,
Papallacta, 266,
departure from, 267.
Para, city of, 318.
estuary of, 317,
Paramos, 201, 263,
Passports, 172.
Pastassa, 226.
Pebas, 296.
Peccaries, 287,
Pedrero, 188.
Peruvian coast, 196.
coast, causes of sterility, 199,
coast, climate of, 200,
empire, fall of, 229,
Petare, 22,
Petroleum-wells, 200.
Phosphorescence, 196,
Phosphorescent insects, 151,
Pichincha, 245.
ascent of, 246,
crater ofj 247,
plants within crater, 249,
storm within crater, 249.
view from, 251.
Piedra de la Paciencia, 137.
del Tigre, 184,
Pimiohin, town of, 167.
Pineapples, 24,
Pirarucu, 189,
Polylepis-tree, 267,
Population of Caracas, 19,
of Guayaquil, 202,
of La Guaira, 1,
of Puerto Cabello, 57,
of Quito, 232.
of Venezuela, 19,
Portage of Pimiohin, 165,
Portuguesa, 65,
navigation upon, 88,
Portuguese currency, 176,
Posada scene, 218,
Posaderos, 34,
Pot-holes, 148,
Preparations for leaving Quito, 253.
Printing-presses in Caracas, 19,
Professor Ernst, 7 ,
Gearing, 7,
Hart, 301.
Protestant burial-ground at Quito,
257.
Puerto Cabello, 57,
exports of, 57,
population of, 57,
Puma, 106,
Puna, island of, 201,
Putaro River, falls of, 188,

Quebrada de Tipe, 6.
Quito, altitude of, 226.
buildings of, 281.
classes in, 2(54.
climate of, 227.
departure from^ 225.
lack of enterprise in, 234.
fete-iscy at, 235.
future of, 236.
history of, 227.
modern, 231,
plazas in, 231.
population of, 232.
Protestant burial at, 257.
religion in, 235,
valley of, 226, 258, 260,
Quitonian volcanoes, 239,
Races, problem of, 283,
Rain, fall of, at Caracas, 21.
Rancho, 268.
Rapids, shooting of, 79, 283.
Raudal de Atabajo, 188.
Atures, 141.
Atures, passage of, 143.
Cariben, 185.
Garcita, 150.
los Guahibos, 162.
Marimara,-134.Maypures, 152,
Maypures, fall of, 154.
Tabaja, 187.
Religion in Quito, 235.
Religious intolerance, 257.
Rio Branco, 188.
Caliente, 54.
Clarito, 108.
Cosanga, 269.
Esmeraldas, 200, 225,
Guaira, 10, 12,
Napo, 276.
Napo, features of, 286.
Napo, Indians on, 281.
Napo, rapids of, 288.
Napo, storms upon, 292.
Napo, watch upon, 292.
Napo, winds upon, 278.
Negro, Ijreadth of, 187, 191.
Negro, cataracts of, 179.
Negro, climate of, 177.
Negro, experiences on, 190.
Negro, features of, 180.
Negro, geology of, 189,
Negro, routes to, irom Orinoco,
160.
Negro, Boaroity of life on, 176.
Negro, scenery upon, 185.
Negro, waters of, 168.
Negro, vrinds upon, 187.

INDEX.

357

Rio Pao, 65.
Tinaco, 88.
Tinaco, navigating, 68,
River-systems, 58,
Roads, 61.
Rocks, decomposition of, 124,
monolithic, 173.
on the Orinoco, 148.
pictured, 46,
striated, 300,
Routes from Javita to Pimichin,
167.
La Guaira to Caracas, 4,
Orinoco to Rio Negi-o, 160.
Sabbath, observance of, 19, 222,
Saman, 103,
de Guere, 85,
San Carlos, 172,
Sancudos, 86, 290.
San Fernando, 88,
de Atabapo, 158,
Sangai, 244,
San Isabel, 182.
Miguel, 171, 213,
Paulo, 304.
Santa Barbara, 130.
Rosa, 284,
Santarem, 314,
Saurians, sleep of, 96,
Saw-mills, 320.
Sea-cow, 102,
mode of capture, 103,
Sensitive-plants, 259,
Serpa, 312.
Sheep destitute of wool, 173.
Shells, marine, 297.
Ship-buUding, 169.
Shooting rapids, 79.
Silla, 10.
slope ofj 27.
zones of vegetation on, 2.
Snow-line, 215.
Soldado, 101,
Southern firmament, 184.
Spanish curiosity, 219.
Stars, scintillations of, 261.
Steamer "Morona," 303.
Stores in Caracas, 14.
Summer sleep of saurians, 95.
Tabatinga, 304.
clay, 157.
Tablon, 260.
Tacarigua Lake, desiccation of, 40,
elevation of, 41.
extent of, 42.
Tajapurii, chaimel of, 317.
Tapioca, 26.

TermiteSj 18.
Thanksgiving dinner, 152.
Thermal springs, 53.
Thunder-storms, 21.
Tides upon the Amazons, 813.
Tierra oahente, 5.
Tiger-hunt, 47.
Toucans, 288.
Trinchera, 50,
Tropical forest, 47, 51, 69, 74, 195,
200, 208, 208, 252, 275, 292,
storms, 83.
torrents, 267.
Tropics, first view of, 1,
Tsohudi, Dr,, 17.
Tuesday, unlucky day, 86.
Tunantlns, 304.
Turtles, eggs of, 126, 289.
destruction of, 128,
mode of capture, 146,
Uaupes, 177,
University at Caracas, 14,
Upper Orinoco, calm upon, 155,
Rio Negro, navigating on, 178.
Urbana, climate of, 120,
delay at, 120.
departure from, 123.
entering. 111.
fiesta-day at, 113,
population of, 114,
situation of, 115.
Vaca marina, 102.
Valencia, city of, 39.
entrance in, 38.
Valley of Chimbo, 213,
Quito, 226, 260,
Quito, last view of, 265,
Quito, width of, 258.
the Amazons, 265.
the Amazons, geology of, 297.
Aragua, 35.
Aragua, elevation of, 32, •
Vampire-bats, 139,
Vegetation, adaptation of, 216.
on the Rio Pao, 70,
of high altitudes, 216,
on the Andes, 201,
zones of, 216,
Venezuela, population of, 17,
Venezuelian etiquette, 26,
store, 14,
Victoria, 33,
population ot, 35.
Regia, 311.
ViAriano, 67.
Volcanoes, groups of, 238.
Voyage upon Rio Pao, 68.

358

INDEX.

Waraun Indians, 71, 98,
Water-dog, 104,
Water-hog, 104,
Water-system of South America,
58,
AVeapons of Indians, 145, 146.
Wet season at Caracas, 21,
Wheat, 33.

Wilson, Mr,, death of, 26.
Yuca, 26, 284.
Yucca acaulis, 29.
" Ziparo," our craft, 286.
parting from, 302.
Zones of vegetation, 216.

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