llsj. -¦ 'if iff i :,'|lrj,< . ^'^t:..ii ''¦ ! > 'Si ipiiilillBtM ¦«¦« THE UNITED STATES NORTH AMERICA AS THEY ARE. c I ¦<: LONDON : PUBLISHED BY W. SIMPKIN AND R. MARSHALL, STATIONER S irALt COURT. MDCCCXXVIII. LONDON: Printed by William Clowes 14, Charing Cross. PREFACE. Fifty years have passed since the emanci pation of the United States. This lapse of time has solved two great questions. It has exposed the fallacy of human calcu lations, which anticipated only present anarchy and ultimate dissolution for the new Republics, and it has established the possibility of a people governing them selves, and being prosperous and happy. Their political infancy is over, they have approached to manhood ; and fully sensible of their strength, their first magistrate has ventured to utter the important words in his message of 1823, " That notwithstanding their neutrality they would consider any attempt on the part of European powers to extend their system to any portion of the transatlantic hemisphere as dangerous to VI PREFACE. its peace and safety, and that they could not admit of any attempt at colonisation on the part of Europe." Thus for the first time they have advanced, taking a part de facto in the great political transactions of Europe, and pronouncing their declara tion in a tone which has certainly contri buted to the abandonment of most of those intentions which were fast ripening into execution. Great has been the influence of American liberty throughout the civilized world. The French, and more recently the South Ame rican revolutions, and the commotions in Spain, Portugal, Naples, and in Piedmont, owe their origin not to any instigation on the part of the United States, but to the influence of their example in raising the standard of freedom, and more than all, to the success which crowned their efforts. On the other hand, great has been the influence of European politics on the Ame rican nation. A party existing since the revolution, and extending its ramifications PREFACE. Vll over the whole United States, is now grow ing into importance, and guided by the principles of European diplomacy, is root ing itself deeper and deeper, drawing with in its circle the wealthy, the dissatisfied, and thus adding every day to its strength. We see, in short, the principle of monarch- ism developing itself in the United States ; and though it is not attempted to establish it by means of a revolution which would assuredly fail, there is a design to bring it about by that cunning, cautious, and I may add, American way, which must eventually succeed, unless the spirit of freedom be suflSciently powerful to overrule these sub tle preparations. There have been many changes in the United States within the last ten years. The present rulers have succeeded in so amalgamating opinions, that whatever may be said to the contrary, only two parties are now existing there— the Monarchists or the Governors, and the Republicans who are the governed. Vni PREFACE. The object proposed in the following pages, has been to exhibit to the eyes of the world the state of American affairs, without prejudice, and without party spirit. Adams is a favourite with Great Britain. This empire has, however, no just reason to admire him. Should his plans succeed, the cost to Great Britain would be the loss of her last possession in North America, while as long as the North American Re public continues united, this unwieldy mass of twenty-four States can never be dan gerous. Social orders as yet there are none, but they are developing themselves in the same way as wealth, luxury, ambition, and sciences, on the one side, and poverty, ig norance, and indirect oppression on the other, are increasing. Here, as every where else, this is the natural course of things. To show the state of society in general, and the relative bearings of the different PREFACE. IX classes to each other, and thereby to affbrd a clear idea of what the United States now really are, is the second object attempted in these pages. To represent social intercourse and pre vailing habits in such a manner as to enable the future emigrant to follow the prescribed track, and to settle with security and ad vantage to himself and to his new country ; to affbrd him the means of judging for him self by giving him a complete view of public and private life in general, as well as of each profession or business in par ticular, is a third object contemplated. The capitalist, the merchant, the farmer, the physician, the lawyer, the mechanic, will find, I trust, adequate information respect ing the course, which, in settling in the Union, he will have to pursue. Further explanation I think unnecessary. He who may consider these sketches insufficient, would not be better informed if I were to enlarge the work to twice its size. Such a one is unfit for a settler in a country X PREFACE. where so many snares beset his path. Verbum sapienti sat. The author is conscious that in treating of the political state of America, his ob servations may be deemed severe. This severity of reproof may perhaps have be come natural to him, from having, during a residence of a series of years, been ac customed to hear the President treated by the Opposition with less deference than the meanest citizen ; but he may be allowed to say, that he has never permitted himself any exaggeration, or even a solitary sar casm at the expense of truth. He is per suaded that time will confirm his statements. He is equally aware of the many inaccu racies of his style, but while he shrinks not from fair criticism, he entreats that liberal indulgence which a stranger is allowed to claim at the hands of a great and generous nation. London, June, 1827. CONTENTS. Chapter I. — Introductory Review of the Political, Physical and Moral State of the Union of North America, p. 1. Chap. II. — Election of the President, 1824, p. 8. Chap. III. — John Quincy Adams, President of the United States — The Nation, p. 19. Chap. IV. — ^The Ministry of State — Clay, Secretary of State — Southard, Secretary of the Navy — Rush, Secretary of the Treasury — Barbour, Secretary of War — Marshall, Chief Justice — ^The Message of the President, p. 27. Chap. V. — The Republics of South America — Con gress of Mexico — Policy of the Administration of the United States in Regard to that Congress — Its Con sequences, p. 43. Chap. VI. — Opposition — Randolph— —Pennsylvania — The Future Election, p. 61. Chap. VII. — Major-General Andrew Jaclcson, p. 71. Chap. VIII. — The Congress — Electioneering — ^The Honourables, p. 89. XU CONTENTS. Chap. IX.' — Literature— Literary Institutions— Educa tion — Libraries — Newspapers, p. 102. Chap. X. — American High Life — Life in County Towns, and in the Country, p. 1 18. Chap. XI. — Religion — Clergy — Synods — Sects — Ro man Catholics — Unitarians, p. 135. Chap. XII. — The Lawyer — Courts of Common Pleas — Title Deeds — Remarks, p. 169. Chap. XIII.— The Merchant— The Storekeeper— The Pedlar, p. 180. Chap. XIV.— The Farmer, p. 189. Chap. XV.— The Militia, p. 211. Chap. XVI.— Physicians, p. 218. Chap. XVII. — Manufacturers — Tradesmen, p. 223. Chap. XVIII.— Conclusion, p. 232. THE UNITED STATES OF NORTH AMERICA. Chapter I. INTRODUCTORY REVIEW OF THE POLITICAL, PHYSICAL, AND MORAL STATE OF THE UNION OF NORTH AMERICA. The progress of the United States, during the fifty years of their pohtical existence^ is unpa ralleled in the history of nations. Thirteen states have increased to twenty-four, two millions and a half of inhabitants to eleven millions. The public revenues, which in 1784 were scarcely six millions of dollars, are now twenty-five millions. The navy, from the very lowest beginning, com mands the respect, and excites the jealousy of the power which has hitherto been the ruler of the ocean. Upwards of a thousand steam and merchant vessels, surpassing in velocity those of every other nation, are daily importing the pro ducts of the most distant countries, and diffusing B 2 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. I- them through the interior of the Union, by means of rivers^ navigable for thousands of miles *. A single state (New York) has com pleted what is unexampled in the Old World, China alone excepted, a canal, three hundred and sixty miles in length. Another state (Ohio) will have finished, in the course of next year, a second canal, three hundred miles long, thus establishing an artificial water communication of nearly three thousand miles, beyond all com parison the most extensive on the face of the earth. Above thirty other canals are in pro gress, among them the Pennsylvania and the Che sapeake, the former partly finished, and scarcely yielding in length to that of New York. To crown the whole, the national debt amounts » About twelve years ago there arrived at Leghorn, a ship, built at Pittsburgh, and cleared out from that place. The master presented his papers to the Custom-house officers, who would not give credit to them, insisting that the papers must have been forged, as there was no such a port as Pittsburgh, and accordingly the vessel was to be confiscated. The captain laid before the officer a map of the United States, directed his attention to the Gulf of Mexico, pointed out the mouth of the Mississippi, led him a thousand miles up the mouth of the Ohio, and from thence another thousand miles up to Pittsburgh : " This, Sir, is the port from whence my vessel has cleared out." The astonished officer would as soon have believed that it had been navigated from the moon. ^•"•PlJ OF NORTH AMERICA. 3 to no more than seventy-four millions of dollars, and is rapidly diminishing. The clergy is with out tithes, and peace and tranquillity prevail without a secret police and without an army. It would not be difficult to trace the causes which have contributed to raise the Union of North America to this astonishing height of prosperity. A sea-coast of three thousand miles, excellent harbours, important rivers, rising and emptying themselves in its territory, a rich virgin soil, a temperate climate, a population composed of the descendants of the first nation in the world, the sciences of the ancient, the experience of modern times transplanted into a new and sus ceptible soil, and both united to the most liberal constitution that ever existed, were cei'tainly ele ments which, well-employed and well-directed, afforded reason to anticipate future greatness. The Union happily found a genius fully com petent to give it this direction in — ^Washington. Ever the same at home, in the field and in the cabinet, he imperceptibly gave to the nation the impress of his character and his politics. A character more firm, more composed, and, not withstanding its simplicity, more dignified, than this statesman's can scarcely be imagined. There B 2 4 THE UNITED STATES -» [C'^P- '• never existed a man who knew the true interest of his country better than Washington, or sought it in a simpler or wiser way. His farewell address bears ample testimony to his unbounded patriotism, and will ever be the noblest document of his great and enlightened mind. The experience of his long and splendid career is, as it were, compressed into a few words, and recommended with a warmth of feeling, of which many thought him incapable, and which may be attributed to the thorough conviction, that through the adoption of those principles alone his country could be happy. So true are the principles he lays down in this celebrated document, so wise the maxims he recommends, that the Union and their President cannot desert those counsels, without risking their welfare, and even their political existence. To the adoption of Washington's maxims, the United States are undoubtedly, in a great mea sure, indebted for their present unexampled pros perity. " The great rule of conduct for us," says this great statesman, " in regard to foreign nations, is, in extending our commercial rela tions, to have with them as little political con nexion as possible. So far as we have already Ch"?- I] OF NORTH AMERICA. 5 formed engagements, let them be fulfilled. Here let us stop. It is our true policy to steer clear of permanent alliances with any portion of the foreign world. The inducements of interests for observing that conduct will best be referred to your own i-eflections and experience. With me a predominant motive has been to endeavour to gain time to our country to settle and mature its recent institutions, and to progress without in terruption to that degree of strength and con sistency, which is necessary to give it, humanly speaking, the command of its own fortune. This was the road recommended by him as the only one by which they and their young republic could attain that degree of power and wealth which now furnishes so interesting a spectacle to mankind. Washington's successor (Adams), having dif ferent views, pursued a different track. His party (the Tories), his distinguished family -connexions, and important public services, elevated him to the post which Washington had occupied. Having manifested extraordinary zeal against Great Bri tain during the revolutionary war, these effer vescences of a callous and ambitious mind were mistaken by the republican party (the Federalists D THE UNITED STATES [Chap. I- and Democrats) for signs of genuine republican ism. The nation, however, had very soon an opportunity of convincing itself that the hatred he bore to England had no other source than his being under its government a mere colonist, and his zeal no other aim than to make his party the rulers of the people, and himself and his family the head of that party. It is not without horror that the American Democrats dwell on the scenes of 1798—1801, when the tyranny of the black cockades rendered the difference between them and the Spartan Helots only a name. Happily for the United States, his government was not of long duration. Mr. Adams followed rather too closely the example of the First Consul, and de clared, in too unequivocal a manner, his intention of domineering. The oppression and the insults which the Democrats had to endure at this time became so intolerable, and the infringement of their rights so daring, as to excite general dis content. Sedition-laws, arrests, imprisonments, and gibbets, only augmented the evil. Pennsyl vania gave the signal for general revolt, which was prevented only by the dismissal of the Pre sident. The Johns have never furnished high specimens of a prudent government. The Eng- ^•"^P- 'J OF NORTH AMERICA. 7 lish John lost his dominions, the French his liberty, the Bohemian his life, and the American his second election. Jefferson, Madison, Mon roe, whatever any of their opponents may object against their party principles, were men whose memory ought to be cherished by the people of the United States. What Monroe was — the so roughly treated Monroe — they have already felt, and are likely to feel still more, in the present dearth of .statesmen. John Bull has now the satisfaction of knowing that brother Jonathan, who prided himself not a little in having, as he fancied, servants in lieu of Magistrates, has already become the dupe of his second-hand honourables, and is moreover in a pretty fair way of being put, by their well-meant endea vours, on an equal footing with the rest of the world. THE UNITED STATES [Chap. I. Chapter II. Election of the President, 1824. Among the four candidates for the Presidency in 1824, the Caucus candidate, as he was called, Mr. Crawford, was the only one fit, in every respect, to succeed to the chair once filled by Washington. Less splendid than solid in his political career, as a member of Congress, a senator, an ambassador, and Secretary of the Treasury, he expressed himself unequivocally in behalf of the system hitherto pursued, and gave the fairest expectation of his persevering in the principles of Washington. Unhappily, however, under the last three Presidents enormous abuses had crept into the administration ; creatures of the reigning party were appointed to all offices, almost to the exclusion of the rest of the nation. Re sponsibility was wholly out of the question. The arrears in the post-department alone amounted to many hundred thousand dollars. It was deemed expedient to deviate from the existing mode of accepting the Presidents from the hands of Con gress, and high time to annul a privilege which Cl'ap. II OF NORTH AMERICA. 9 that assembly seemed already to claim as a right. The Democrats formed an opposition, in conse quence, against Mr. Crawford, the candidate of the democratic party, which was joined by most of the democratic states. Virginia, so much fa voured by the present state of things, together with Georgia, the native state of Crawford, adhered to the Secretary of the Treasury, not choosing to desert him, even when his prospects became hopeless. The second democratic candidate was Mr. Jack' son, Senator of the United States, and Major- General. He was considered as the head of the Radicals, who expected from his powerful hand a thorough reform of the administration — that is to say, a change of the magistrates and officers, the chastisement of the Tories, correction of abuses ; among the rest, of the enormous army of 5,800 men, and of the navy, then consisting of seven ships of the line ; a reduction of the public expenditure for fortification, &c. The Pennsyl- vanians, so fond of the saving principles, joined the General, as did their neighbours, the people of Ohio. The Southern States conceived themselves indebted to Jackson for his gallant defence at New Orleans, and therefor^ considered it their duty to 10 THE UNITED STATES [dap- "• adhere to him. All the place-hunters in the Union formed the rear-guard of the second candidate. The Secretaryship was regarded as the usual road to the Presidency. Mr. John Quincy Adams was then Secretary of State : his party consisted of the six New England States. A finished edu cation, an intimate acquaintance with the belles lettres, a high character as a diplomatist, an ele gant style as an author, and the important office of Secretary of State, attracted to his party the fashionables throughout the Union; and New York, for this reason, gave up Crawford and Jack son, and joined Adams's party, which might be considered as the very antipodes of Jackson's, wishing for a more respectable navy and army, a higher tone towards foreign powers, and the like. Mr. Henry Clay, Speaker of the House of Re presentatives, had also announced himself as a candidate : his party consisted of the people of Kentucky, Missouri, &c.; at the time, however, he cared less about securing the Presidency for himself than obtaining the election of a President who was most likely to serve his interests, and those of his party : to carry every measure by his party, and to ensure his own elevation at the next election, was his object. The States of Kentucky Chap. H.] OF NORTH AMERICA. H and Missouri had expressed their desire to their constituents, to have their votes given to Andrew Jackson, in case Clay should not have any chance of succeeding to the Presidency ; for they had every reason to expect a more ready concurrence in their views and interests from Jackson, as se nator for Tennessee, than from any other of the candidates. Clay promised obedience to the order of his constituents. Of these four candidates, Crawford obtained from Virginia and Georgia forty-two votes ; Jack son from Tennessee, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and the Southern States, ninety-nine ; Adams, from the New England States, New York, &c., eighty- four ; and Clay, from Kentucky, Missouri, &c., thirty-six votes *. None of these four candidates having the con stitutional majority of votes, the election devolved on the House of Representatives, before whom the three former candidates, Crawford, Jackson, and Adams, were brought, agreeably to the law of election, Clay being excluded. * In the case where no candidate has two-thirds of the whole votes viz. (261), the Constitution declares that the election de volves upon the House of Representatives, before which the three candidates are to be brought who have the most voles in the gene ral election. Each State has then one vote, and the absolute majority, i. c. 13, makes the election valid. 12 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. U. The will of the people was manifested in too clear a manner to admit of any doubt, or to afford cause for any uneasiness respecting the issue of the election. A disappointment was thought the less probable, as the rivalship, or rather enmity of Clay and Adams, since the Treaty of Ghent, was notorious, and the severe attacks of the former in the House of Representatives were still in remem brance. What added to this security was, that the majority of votes was for Jackson : expec tation was, however, disappointed, and the pride of the sovereign people of the United States could scarcely be more humbled than by the use made by their representatives of their delegated power. Similar views and principles made Adams and his party a compact body, who understood each other perfectly, and acted on the same principles. Besides being united, this party, consisting chiefly of Yankees *, had the advantage of supe rior information and talents, with what is always the case with the Yankee — a proportionate addi tion of trick and artifice. Great cunning was, however, not requisite to outwit Jackson's party ; for the honest, but phlegmatic Germans thought * In order to obviate misunderstandings, we think proper to state that, under the appellation Yankees, we mean the inhabi tants of the six New England States. Chap n.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 1-3 it sufficient to cling to their leader, as their an cestors did in days of old to their chieftains. The States whose votes were divided between Adams and Jackson were induced, without great effort, to join the party of Adams, who, in consequence, obtained an equality of votes with Jackson, but no majority. The party of Crawford kept themselves in the background, without listening either to the insi nuations of Jackson's or Adams's party. Clay, who at first chose likewise to stand neuter, now deemed it the proper time to step forward, and to assume the part of mediator ; his adherents, as we mentioned, were Kentuckians : the credit of the Kentuckians is not very firm. A certain fashion able way of life, gambling, races, state bankrupt cies, land speculations, an inveterate propensity to tlie bottle, have caused much disorder in the financial circumstances of these gentlemen : even the honourable Speaker, Mr. Clay, was not thought quite exempt from the general diseases of his State. There was but one remedy — to get Mr. Clay into the office of Secretary of State, and thus afford his faithful friends the means of retrieving their for tune and credit, by the gift of important offices. Accordingly, his supporters thought it necessary to reconnoitre the parties : a beginning was made 14 THE UNITED STATES [Ct'-P' ^^¦ with Mr. Jackson, who was asked what their master had to expect from the General, in case he should be elected by their co-operation. Either Jackson did not choose to deliver himself into the hands of Mr. Clay, or having no particular fancy for Mr. Clay, as Secretary of State, he dechned making any offers. The Representatives of Ken tucky had been directed by their respective States to give their votes, in the present case, without any condition, to Jackson. To ensure their fidelity, they were obliged to act in accordance with the Speaker, whose enmity to Adams seemed to them the surest means of securing his election. Political enmities and friendships have this much in common, that their duration is just so long as the parties find it to suit their purposes. If the nation has no other guarantee for the fidelity of its servants, its interests are in bad hands : unfortunately there was none. The very circumstance which separated the po litical antagonists was the cause of their union — ambition. Mr. Adams and Mr. Clay found out and understood one another. The very men who but a week before hated each other most cordially, and never met except on public and unavoidable occasions, now spent whole nights together in a clandestine manner. In what hght the nation Chap.U.} OF NORTH AMERICA. 15 would view these proceedings, on the part of men of their character, there could be no question : Adams and Clay had succeeded in dispelling the prejudices about the rights of the people. A formal bargain was concluded, which gave the nation for the term of four years into the hands of Mr. Adams. The stipulated price for which the Speaker bound himself to join Mr. Adams was the Secretaryship of State. This being agreed to, Mr. Clay, with his friends, went over to Mr. Adams and his party. In order to prepare the minds of his consti tuents, and to exculpate himself for his accession to the party of Adams, Clay addressed a letter to Colonel W , in Kentucky, desiring it to be published, expressing his scruples in regard to Jackson, and the necessity of declaring for Adams. The subsequent election gave to Crawford four votes, to Jackson seven, and to Adams thirteen votes, and, of course, the Presidency. To describe the temper of the nation after these events is scarcely in my power. The suppressed malicious smile of the Tories, who dared not ma nifest their mischievous joy at their victory ; the republican Federalist doubtfully shaking his head at the triumph of a party which not many years 16 THE UNITED STATES [^'"P" "' before actually intended to sell their country ; the simple Democrat who had but an obscure idea of the whole proceedings, and was unable to comprehend how the great gentlemen could have been so bHnd as to prefer a Tory to the second Washington (Jackson) ; the Radicals, finally, who had conceived, from Jackson's elevation, very sanguine hopes respecting offices, and now saw themselves so cruelly disappointed, loudly de nouncing treachery, and crying out for civil war — such were the scenes that might everywhere be witnessed. The power which the law certainly exercises upon the citizen of the United States (at least the northern) was, on this occasion, seen to advantage. Notwithstanding the disappoint ment of his fondest hopes, he attempted not the least opposition to the object of his hatred, who was now elected his first magistrate. There were several exhibitions and illuminations, at which Mr. Clay was hung, and afterwards burnt in effigy, while John Adams was mentioned in rather less honourable terms ; but that was all. The nation expected further light, and ob tained it. The first ghmpse of the proceedings between Messrs. Adams and Clay was obtained through a <^'"'P"'J OF NORTH AMERICA. 17 letter written by Mr. Cramer, member of Con gress from the state of Pennsylvania, which ap peared in the Colombian Observer, and alluded to nightly interviews held at Washington, between Messrs. Adams, Clay, and their parties. Clay, to whom a printed copy of this letter was sent, answered in a truly Kentuckian style, in the most abusive language and with a challenge, at the same time citing Cramer before the House of Representatives. - Cramer declined appearing before this as sembly. He was not, however, a man calcu lated to uni-avel the intricacies of this plot, or to make head against the two gentlemen (Adams and Clay), and the whole proceeding terminated in a manner puerile and discreditable to the Penn- sylvanian members "of Congress. Clay, however, notwithstanding the superior talents which cannot be denied him, was little sensible of the inconsistency of which he was guilty in publishing his circular to his constitu ents, or he would have known that the very tone of mind in which he composed this letter, was his strongest accuser. Nothing but the Kentuc kian arrogance, with which he looks down upon the military chieftain, Jackson, and the ineffable C 18 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. II- contempt with which he treats the effusions of popular discontent in the smaller towns, could equal the treachery to the people, of which he was accused. The correspondence occasioned by this letter of Mr. Clay, and the reminis cences which it now revived in the minds of the honourable members, needed nothing more than confirmation on the part of Mr. Adams himself, who was not backward in giving it, and in thus stating the price for which the first magistracy was obtained. <=hi
and a thousand other things, qu(e nunc prescribere longum est. The country people have of course to pay twice the price demanded for the same article in Phila delphia. The storekeeper, however, cannot ex pect to be paid for his goods in cash, and is obliged to barter, if he wishes to have business. Flour, rye, wheat, whisky, maple-sugar, venison, 186 THE UNITED STATES [Cl«p. XIII. hams, pork, beef, eggs, butter, cheese, &c., are the articles he takes in return. His object is to sell these on the most advantageous terms, either in the town or in a sea-port. When his goods are sold, he again repairs to New York, Phila delphia, or any other convenient city, to renew his purchases. It is quite common with this class of people to amass, in the space of four or five years, a fortune of from ten to fifteen thousand dollars, without having any other no tion of business than that of buying cheaply and selling to a profit : they never hazard any thing, provided they give no credit. Their ex penses are trifling ; the license is fifteen dollars, the charges of conveyance from Baltimore to Wheeling, a distance of upwards of three hun dred miles, amounts to three dollars for every hundred weight, tolls included. If, however, brother Jonathan is not possessed of adequate means, he begins business as a pedlar, with a bundle under his arm of the value of from one to four pounds : these industrious people are seen moving about with neckerchiefs, penknives, and such articles for sale. Their mode of prais ing their ware is so unique, that it is really to be lamented that this eloquence should be thrown Chap. XILI.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 187 away on such trifling objects. Brother Jona than exhibits on these occasions, a patience truly singular ; he will listen for half an hour to the oratory of his vagrant fellow-sovereign, will ex amine the goods, put them carefully back again in their former places, and turn his back without uttering a syllable. Our pedlar, however, is by no means discouraged ; with the same ready elo quence he makes a second attack. One of these peripatetic Yankee merchants once offered to sell me a nutmeg ; I was about to pay him, when it occurred to me to try it with my penknife. It was made of walnut-wood in so good an imitation, as to baffle detection unless tried with a knife. " Stop, Sir, there is another one," interrupted the Yankee, afraid of a further trial. I took it in order not to discompose the fellow, who in such cases was provided with one genuine amongst several imitations. When the itinerant dealer has sold his goods, he procures a new stock, and in this way he goes on until industry transforms the pedlar with a bundle at his back, into the owner of a cart with a pony. He continues in this way, tiU he is able to settle himself in a county-town as a store keeper, or to take up another mode of living. 188 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XIII. We are now approaching the most numerous as well as the most solid and respectable class of society in the United States of North America, viz., the farmers, who enjoy, in the full sense of the word, that moral liberty which others are de prived of through their own selfishness or their ambition. Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 189 Chapter XIV. The Farmer. If you are desirous of beholding the elegant farm which combines every species of agricul tural pursuit, and exhibits, especially in the breed of cattle, a high degree of perfection, you may go to Massachusets, Rhodisland, and New York, and you will even find in the environs of Boston, Providence, and New York, farms rivalling those of England, although a smaller capital is em ployed upon them. If you wish to see the solid farmer who prides himself upon shewing his lands in the most im proved state, you should visit the German-Ame rican about Germantown, Reading, Lebanon, and Lancaster in Pennsylvania ; and you readily discover the traits of German descent in a breed of horses more robust, but less elegant, and in a less degree of attention to the breed of cattle, but you will see fields highly cultivated and pro tected by substantial fences, together with sohd farm-buildings. 190 THE UNITED STATES " [fh^P XIV. The poor German or Irish settler, whose hard beginning is neither favoured by capital, nor by property acquired by inheritance, and who has no other resources than his faithful axe, and the labour of himself and of his wife, will be found in the north-eastern part of Pennsylvania. In cessant hard labour, during twenty-five years, though it has left him a contented, has not made him a wealthy, freeholder. His industrious ha bits have become natural, and though in the pos session of two or four hundred acres of land, and perhaps more, he undergoes the same fatigues and toils as at his first outset. Many of these people came twenty or twenty-five years ago to America, and were sold as redemptionists ; in a few years they earned their freedom, and their first business was to marry, and in the company of their buxom wives to travel to the western part of Pennsylvania. There, perhaps, they found an unsettled tract of land, became naturalized, and after a few years they took out the fee-simple from the land-office, and thus grew into inde pendent freeholders. The gentleman farmer lives in a style of proud hospitahty ; a tobacco planter on the James river (in Virginia), surrounded by a herd of slaves Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 191 whom he is now selling, like a true aristocrat, to Louisiana, his lands beginning to be exhausted by frequent tobacco crops. His descent from four or five ancestors who before him were possessed of this plantation, and having a certain number of tenants to whom he leases small parcels of poor lands which he cannot turn to any account, and who always appear before him with hat in hand, are circum stances which have contributed to give him an idea of self-importance, have tended to disturb his notions of republicanfreedom, and to establish in his mind the firm conviction, that his own will is to be the supreme law to all who are so happy as to come into contact with so consequential a personage. There is nothing repugnant to his feelings in the thought of transforming his plantation into a lordship. He declares, without disguise, that Virginia and its appendages, the other twenty- three States, will never be happy unless the con stitution of Great Britain be introduced, at least so far as relates to Lords and Commons. In this case he would condescend to accept the title and dignity of a lord, leaving the Commons to 192 THE UNITED STATES t^^hap. XIV. his poor d s of neighbours, the people of Pennsylvania and New York, However great has been the progress of agri culture in New England, New York, Pennsyl vania, in many points, Ohio and Illinois have got the start of them. Nowhere will the energy and enterprising spirit of the American farmer be seen to such advantage as in the latter States, Nature has destined Pennsylvania rather for a manufacturing country, owing to its inexhausti ble mines of coal, iron-ore, and perhaps precious metals. New York and the New England States are invited to commercial pursuits by the vicinity of the Atlantic shores, whereas the inhabitants of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, must of necessity be farmers. And if we are to judge from what has been done in the thirty-six years of the set tlement of these States, farming will obtain in it the highest degree of perfection. It is truly astonishing what the labour of a few years, and, comparatively speaking, of a few hands, has performed in these countries. He who traverses the colossal maple, and beech forests of Ohio, will often unexpectedly enter a lane which runs deep into the woods and indi- Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 193 cates a farm. The fences are quite new ; the fields bear a striking resemblance to a decaying forest, the immense trees had been kUled in the preceding spring by means of a wide ring cut into the bark to prevent the rising of the sap. Between these withered trees Welshcorn is planted, which, notwithstanding the branches that are strewed upon the ground, and the luxu riant growth of underwood and weeds of every de scription, springs up with astonishing rapidity. A second lane brings you to the humble mansion of the farmer; and judging from the grayish aspect of the fences, and of the barkless trees, whose feebler branches having disappeared, stretch their giant arms into the air in proud memorial of their former gi:andeur, you will conclude this land has been under improvement for two years. The finest wheat grows between the trees, and rises to the height of a man. As you advance, the ridge declines into bottom lands, and the mea dows appear. Here the trees are partly kiUed, partly verdant, to protect the grass from the rays of the sun. On the other side are the orchard newly laid out, parcels of land for hemp and flax, and close to the house the kitchen-garden. The dweUing-house is buih with logs, having the o 194 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XIV. intervals fiUed up with loam and gravel inter mixed with lime, and generally contains no more than one room. The chimney on the outside is either built of stone or of wood, in which latter case the interstices are also filled up so as to resist the fire. The inside of the house, or rather of the room, shows the cleanliness and economy of the in cipient settler, who has for the present renounced all idea cf comfort. On the walls of this room, which also serves for a kitchen, close to the chimney the culinary utensils are suspended ; these are followed by horse-whips, one or two rifles, and the wardrobe of the farmer and his wife. The walls are covered with old news papers in lieu of tapestry, and they may help to pass away your time for an hour or two. The huge connubial bed is placed in the background, and below that, one of smaller dimensions for the younger members of the family. Round the house runs a fence, outside of which, at some distance, is the double log-barn for threshing, with a large aperture, instead of a door, for taking in the grain. Under this barn are the stables for cattle and horses, and on each side are smaller receptacles for corn, with two or three pigsties ; Chap. XIV] OF NORTH AMERICA. 195 the chickens, turkeys, and hogs, which are not intended for fattening, pass the night in the woods. These improvements are the work of two years. The possessor of this farm is a German or an Anglo-American, Yankee, New Yorkian, or Pennsylvanian. After the decease of his father he inherited a fifth part of the farm lands, his brothers having each an equal share, the daugh ters receiving theirs in money. He improved his inheritance by erecting, with the assistance of his neighbours and relations, the necessary farm buildings, and by turning his inheritance to the best possible account. By-and-by, how ever, his family increased, as he, like his Yankee brethren, had lost no time in marrying. He re solves, therefore, upon settling in the west. A purchaser for his property being found, and the necessary money provided, he mounts a good horse, and starts for the Western States. The journey there and back may be between fifteen hundred and two thousand miles, but this is no obstacle to him. If relations have settled before him in the west, he takes care to call upon them, in order to obtain information about the quality of land. If he has no connexions there, he is O 2 196 THE UNITED STATES tChap. XIV. provided with a map, and searches for such as are best suited to his purpose, and with which he is sufficiently acquainted by the official accounts of surveyors, and by the information of his coun trymen. He may rely on meeting everywhere the warm est encouragement to settle. Distrustful, how ever, of the sincerity of his informants, who generally praise their lands in the most extra vagant manner in order to attract settlers, he examines everything himself, preferring to sleep for some nights under the canopy of heaven, rather than trust their interested praise. If an Anglo-American, he will be determined in the selection of the spot he is in search of, not only by its fertility, but by the vicinity of a river, or at least of a creek, which affords him the prospect of erecting future mills or manufac tories ; coal mines are equally objects of his search. If he be of German descent, he will probably seek only for good land, without con sidering that, though he may be likely to raise more produce, he will sell to less profit than his more prudent neighbour. Having at last found the desired tract, and which has not yet been bought by a land specu- Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 197 lator or by another settler (a circumstance he ascertains from the next farmer), he repairs to the land-office, and pays two hundred and sixty- six dollars, one-third of the price for a section of six hundred and forty acres — if he purchases two sections, then double that sum. Having settled this business, he returns, and having sold his farm of fifty acres at the rate of thirty dollars per acre, the common price for middle land in the Eastern States, he has a capital of fifteen hundred dollars. His grain, his cattle, his fur niture, are disposed of at an auction held in his house, and produce him a thousand dollars more. Out of the sale of his property, thus amoilnting to two thousand five hundred dollars, he may expect at least one half in ready money. His most necessary domestic or kitchen utensils, his furniture, bedding, together with flax, hemp, and wool, for the employment of the women during the winter evenings, and some dozens of hams, with cheeses, the necessary supply of tea, coffee, and sugar, half a barrel of whisky, dried apples and peaches, are all loaded on two waggons, having each two or more horses. With this equipage he starts for his new settlement. The passengers consist of himself, his wife, probably 198 THE UNITED STATES ICh^P- XIV. two or three grown daughters, as many sturdy lads, and two or three children, generally form ing together a family of from nine to ten mem bers. The expenses of the journey are comparatively trifling. The provisions, such as meat, bread, Indian corn for the horses, are sold to them in taverns, always at the market price. They pre pare their own meals, and use their own bedding on the journey. These emigrations are so nu merous, that the tavern-keepers seldom dare to take advantage of the travellers, impatient as the landladies may sometimes be at the girls running about their premises. When they start, the sons carry their rifles, and kill such game as they may find by the way ; the daughters are knitting on the waggons, or walking by the side of them, dressed in a clean, and often in an elegant, attire. After a journey of from three to four weeks, they arrive at the land of promise. They usually set out in the beginning of autumn, the finest season in North America. On their arrival, accommodations for the first week are found at the next farm. The farmers with their sons, for the distance of from four to five mUes, are invited to the frolic (as it is Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 199 termed) of cutting down timber, an invitation they never decline. From forty to fifty axes resound in the woods ; the timber is prepared in a few days, and the log-cabin is erected at the place determined upon, which is always, if pos sible, near a spring. The neighbouring farmers and their sons who assist, are treated with plenty of whisky and provisions. The roofing and the building of the chimney are left to the new settler. Boards for the floor and the ceiling are procured from the next saw-mill, and in a few weeks the house is ready to receive its new inmates. The windows and doors are finished after they have taken possession of the house. In the mean time, the bed-linen and the under garments of the female part of the family serve for windows, until the carpenters (who are now to be found everywhere) have finished their work. The next principal care of the settler, is to clear as many acres as are thought necessaiy to satisfy the demands of the ensuing year. Having at least one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars out of the sale of his property, of which he applies five hundred and thirty-three dollars in payment of the first-third of his two sections, he has now six hundred doUars after deducting his traveUing expenses : with this sum he wiU 200 THE UNITED STATES [CH»p. XIV. be able to perform much in the way of improve ment. For the clearing of one acre, which is effected, as we have stated, by ringing the trees to destroy vegetation, he pays from three to four dollars — for a hundred fencing rails, twenty-five cents — and to a journeyman for a day's work a similar sum. With one hundred dollars he may clear before the next spring about twenty or thirty acres, and surround them with fences. This is sufficient for the first year. Generally he divides the cleared lands into three parts ; the first is allotted to Indian corn, the principal object with an American farmer, the second to summer wheat, the third is appro priated partly to meadows, and the rest is planted with potatoes, hemp, and flax. The laying out of an orchard is reserved for the following year. He procures cattle without delay, and is enabled to keep them at little expense during the winter ; in the spring, summer, and fall, they find suffi cient food in the woods. The neighbours, four weeks after his arrival, are again invited to assist him in the erection of a barn, and from fifty to sixty youths join in this "frolic," in return for which act of complaisance he is likewise -to ap pear with his sons if called upon. The expenses of his household are not very Chap. XIV.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 201 great, though he has to buy almost everything, a circumstance which is always a great drawback to a farmer. With a hundred bushels of corn, he will be able to keep four horses till the next harvest, and with one hundred doUars more he provides for the necessities of his household. Want of occupation is what neither he nor his family can have to complain of. During the winter the upper room is put in order, if a snow falls they go out hunting, and seldom return without having killed a deer, or at least some wild turkeys. The females remain spinning, weaving, and knitting for the family, who, for the subsequent two years, wear only home-made clothes — the winter passes on with these and similar occupations. Their peace is seldom inter rupted, unless the cows, which they have bought from a neighbouring farmer, have strayed, or re turned to their former home. This is generaUy an occasion of trouble twice in every week. As spring approaches, they proceed to clear the lands. When this is done they commence sowing corn, wheat, and grass seeds. The inter mediate time between sowing and harvest, is employed in eradicating underwood, which is done by ploughing with a single horse between 202 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XIV. the rows of maize. The harvest yields the farmer at least sixty times his seed, and he has raised upwards of four hundred bushels of wheat, six hundred bushels of Indian corn, and sufficient hay for his horses. The first and most difficult year is over. Before the next autumn he can with ease clear, at least, from fifty to sixty acres, which are again divided and improved in the manner we have stated. He now thinks of laying out his or chard, for which he reserves from three to four acres. His capital is already doubled, and his lands, two sections of which cost him one thou sand six hundred dollars, he wpuld not part with for less than three thousand. In this way he improves his estate, and increases his wealth the more rapidly, as his enterprising industry is nei ther checked by the prejudice of established usage, repressed by timidity, nor over-ruled by arbitrary power. If we proceed three or four miles further on, the next farm will exhibit, in the clearest light, a proof of what the estate we have just described will be in the course of six or seven years. The underwood and huge barkless trees are gone from the fields adjoining the house, though in the Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 203 more distant part of the farm they are still seen. Two hundred acres of the best lands are cleared and covered with beautiful wheat, corn, grass, tobacco, and other products of a more southern climate. For oats and rye the soil is too strong, they grow too rapidly, and even the potatoes are not mealy. The original rude fences have been replaced by a more elegant and solid enclosure of the fields next to the farm-house and the orchard. The house is surrounded with a light railing, which encloses aneat kitchen and peach-garden, through which a wide avenue from thirty to forty feet long leads to the double steps which terminate in a staircase : the entrance is frequently sup ported by pillars. The American farmer is never deterred by that modesty in his building plans, which distinguishes those of other countries. He will build his house in the same style as the Pre sident, who is like himself a farmer. There are farm-houses erected in the Gothic, Italian, or Greek styles, just as the taste or fancy of their possessors may dictate. The inside of the house shows wealth and comfort, without any strict adherence to the rules of fashion. The parlour is carpeted : in- 204 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XIV. stead of the rude chimney, where wood formerly was consumed, you observe the elegant iron coal grate, the sine qua non of an American fire side. A sofa, a dozen of imitation Windsor chairs, a sideboard covered with four or five bottles containing rum, whisky, brandy, gin, ingredients for the much-beloved doddy, and a looking-glass above the mantel-piece, constitute the furniture of the parlour : the rest of the house is fitted up in an equal style of comfort. The same man who eight years ago was hardly worth three thousand dollars, has now a property of twenty thousand, for which he is indebted to an enterprising industry, and to a magnanimous renunciation of most of the comforts of life for six months. This is the mode pursued by thou sands, and aided by a sound understanding and an active and persevering spirit, it will always lead to the same results — wealth and independence. The Englishman reproaches the American far mer for his wandering, or rather his adventu rous, disposition. That the Yankee merchant, the lawyer, the physician, the speculating board ing-schoolmistress, with her niece or daughter on her hands, should emigrate to the land of promise, the cities of New Orleans and Natchez, in spite Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 205 of the yellow fever, which not unfrequently car ries off some thousands of these vagrants, does not excite his wonder; but when he sees the steady and respectable farmer, quitting, without hesitation, his native place, his relations, all the dearest social ties, and removing to a dis tance — not of fifty or a hundred, but of six or eight hundred miles — this he conceives argues an adventurous, restless, and erratic disposition, which only looks to self-advantage. The cor rectness of this opinion, I think, will have been disproved, by the specimen the reader has just had of difficulties overcome, and comfort esta blished. Did the American yield to excessive sensibility, either in personal or local attach ments, the beautiful plains of the west would remain unoccupied and deserted. That John Bull does not quite relish brother Jonathan's establishment in the western and south-western parts of the Union, especially toward the Pacific Ocean, is well known, though his declamatory vituperations may be less owing to his moral sensibilities, than to a certain patriotic aversion not yet entirely subdued. This, however, is un generous ; for in spite of all trifling discussions and bickerings, John Bull is now a greater fa- 206 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XIV. vourite with Jonathan than ever ; and if John is wise he wUl neither break oft' from his kins man, which could be of no advantage to him, nor treat him with a contempt which he does not deserve. To return to our farmer. His taxes are trifling ; the two most important are the county and the road-tax. The first is destined to defray the judicial and other expenses of the county, and its amount is from a half, to one and two cents per acre, most of which tax is paid in county bills which the farmer receives as a recompense for his attendance as juryman and for other ser vices. The road-tax is only paid in case he should refuse to work in person, or by means of his servants on the public roads. The only serious difficulty to which the American farmer has been exposed during the last six years, and which rendered his situation less favourable, is the want of a market for his produce. As long as wars continued, America, from its neutrality, became to a certain extent the granary of Europe. As the exportations of flour amounted in the year 1817, to nearly twenty millions of dollars, the farmer found a ready demand, and by means of the vast water communications, his produce Chap. XIV] OF NORTH AMERICA. 207 could be easily transported to a maritime town. These times are past, and the change has been for the worse, the export of flour declining from twenty to four millions. The sea-ports are ac cordingly over-stocked with pork, beef, and flour, to an immense amount. In New Orleans the farmer of Ohio and Kentucky, Indiana or Illi nois, may have a better chance of a market, but even in the spring of the year 1826, flour was to be had in abundance at two and a half and three dollars a barrel. However great may be the in crease of population in cities, it is not in propor tion to the supply. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, how ever, the farmers have still considerable re sources, of which they make but an indifferent use. The breeding of cattle and sheep will always secure a considerable return. These latter, even in the Northern States, have been too much neglected, though an improvement is commenc ing in their sheep, by crossing them with the Saxon breed, purchased at a very high price, from two to four hundred dollars a head. Cider and whisky are generally sold at good prices ; and the two canals between the river Ohio and Lake Erie, with the great canal of New York, 208 THE UNITED STATES IChap. XIV. and the growth of silk, which it is intended to promote, as we find by a report of the Secretary of the Treasury, cannot fail to give a new impulse to the agricultural population of the Union. What principally distinguishes the American farmer from the farmers of other countries, is the circumstance that his agricultural pursuits never make him lose sight of the citizen and republican. Three objects engage his particular attention : his country and its offices — the State which he inhabits with its representatives, sena tors, and governor — and, finally, the Congress of the Union. The other States are only of interest to him, as he may be connected with them in any occurrence, or as they come in collision with his own. The affairs of foreign countries, with the exception of England, are indifferent to him. He claims not only the right to elect his own officers and magistrates, but to prescribe to them (in meetings convened for the occasion) the mea sures they are expected to adopt, watching their proceedings with the distrustful eye of a true republican. His deficiency of knowledge in poli tical affairs, he supplies by a due portion of sus picion: this is especiaUy directed against lawyers; and whatever character and forms they may Chap. XIV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 209 assume for a time, his common sense never fails to detect and to see things in their true light. He obliges the member of the Assembly and Congress to lay before him, in particular cases, the questions to be decided upon. From the constable up to the President, he is accustomed to consider his magistrate as the public servant, who is bound to act according to the public will. If a functionary fail in his duty, meetings are convened, proceedings are organized, and reso lutions passed either in approval or disapproba tion of his conduct. All this is done in a style of perspicuity, the very reverse of diplomatical. These resolutions pass from country papers to numberless others. His independence is greatly nourished by his solitary mode of living in the woods, (his residence being at a distance of from one to two miles from his nearest neighbour,) a course of life which originated in necessity and at last became familiar to him. A more populous neighbourhood would be painful to his love of independence, and he would rather re nounce all intercourse with his neighbours, than alter his unsocial habits. ViUages are inhabited by journeymen, trades-people, tavern-keepers, blacksmiths, &c., who hold small parcels of land, P SIO THE UNITED STATES fChap.XlV. but from whom the farmer, properly so called, lives at some distance. After the lawyers, the farmers and planters are the most numerous in the Congress of the United States. It is much to be wished, however, that their knowledge would keep pace with their independence and industrious habits, as the distance between them and their co-senators the lawyers, is much too dispropor- tioned. They maintain the same spirit of independ ence in respect to all other professions, and firmly adhere to their own mode of life, drinking, if necessary, tea raised on their own lands, and speedily adjusting disputes with their neighbours, thus baffling storekeepers and lawyers. Even the ties which unite him to his preacher are not very binding, to whose support, if he be not pleased, he refuses to subscribe ; he will read his Bible at home, or choose another meeting-house- In short, he may be considered as an independent man ; than whom, no one enjoys more liberty in its widest sense, or is more conscious of his self- importance. Chap. XV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 21 1 Chapter XV. The Militia. Little as the American cares about titles and distinctions unless they are connected with the main-spring of all his actions, money-making, he is not indifferent to the title of captain, major, or colonel of the militia, and he seldom refuses these honours when offered to him, although his years might excuse him from military service. Every citizen, from the age of twenty-one to forty-five, is obliged to serve in the militia: none are ex empt but magistrates, the clergy, physicians, and teachers. The opulent join volunteer compa nies, the less wealthy attach themselves to rifle corps, while the poor, and those less fond of military parade, are enrolled in the militia of their country. The volunteers in their appearance differ very little from the regulars, and are con sidered to have a very martial air. They wear blue uniforms, a ci-devant hat transformed into a czacko with a cockade, and home-made sashes; these, and epaulettes made of a piece of sheep- P 2 212 the united states [Chap. xv. skin, pantaloons, and Monroe boots, a musket, and a sabre, complete the equipment of a volun teer. The officers are rather better dressed, with sashes and silver epaulettes; the serjeant has the latter of an immense size, of tinsel. The rifleman wears a cotton dress, with white or red lace, a fur cap, pantaloons and shoes, a hunting- pouch instead of the cartridge-box, an immense powder-horn, and a poignard by his side. The officers wear the same dress, but of finer mate rials. The mUitia-men appear in their common dress, with their rifles, and frequently with a stick. The standard is procured at the expense of the county, the ladies supplying the ribands. When the officers are chosen, a time and place are appointed, the latter generally a tavern, at which the militia are to meet. The subalterns and captains are chosen by their companies, the majors by the battalion, the colonels by the regiments, and the brigadier-generals by the brigade. The election of the staff officers is confirmed by the governor, as Commander-in-chief of the State militia. At the election of officers, the vote of the common soldier is equivalent to that of the major, who at the next election may happen to be in the ranks as a private. Chap. XV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 213 The officer elected never fails to show his gra titude for the honour done to him, by treating the voters with a quantity of whisky or brandy, suf ficient to make many of them miss both horse and road, and take up a night's lodging in a turn pike ditch. Every captain has the right to call out his men for field exercise. It would not, however, be advisable in him to make too fre quent a use of his privilege, unless he wishes to be turned again into a militia-man in the following year. Two fifes and as many drums constitute the whole of the military band. Bri gade reviews are held twice a year, and every militia-man has to appear on these occasions, unless he chooses to pay a fine. The Washing ton guards, the county volunteers and guards, riflemen, and the rest of the militia, all appear together at these reviews. The staff-officers ar rive on horseback, and are dressed in blue, with immense scarfs not unlike the grand cordon of a military order, large epaulettes, and a sword left behind by some Enghsh dragoon, and either round or three-cornered hats, according to the taste of the wearers. The brigade being assembled, they put them selves in motion, first parading through the town. 214 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XV. and if there is but one street, they march three or four times up and down, and then on an open space, where they exhibit their progress in mili tary evolutions. If one or two companies hap pen to keep in something like military order, the rest do all they can to bring the whole again into confusion, in spite of every remonstrance from the officers. Brother Jonathan is too fond of his liberty not to avail himself even of this op portunity to manifest it. The defects of military science are supplied by dexterity in shooting at a mark, and among two thousand riflemen in the interior of the country, there are hardly five hundred who are not capable of shooting a squirrel at the distance of eighty yards. Some years ago a Frenchman from N , accompanied by his lady, came to see me. He had served as an officer under Buonaparte. We went in a carriage to the review of N county. The Frenchman thought the evolutions abomina ble, and indeed the men were all stumbling and marching in the utmost disorder and confusion, talking, smoking cigars, and even taking drams from the bottles they carried about them, without the least attention from the officers to such unmili- tary practices ; which were truly disgusting to the Chap. XV.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 215 eye of our Frenchman. An hour's rest to the troops gave him an opportunity of opening his mind to the brigadier. " Well, well," replied the American, " still we could beat you Frenchmen, and I will show you how." The riflemen came for ward and began shooting at a mark. After twenty- five had discharged their rifles, the Frenchman, who at first indignantly shook his head, expressed his opinion that in such a Backwood country as Pennsylvania, riflemen, though they were no soldiers, could be of some use. Captain B , a young lawyer, desirous of showing to his lady the extent of the authority with which he was invested, commanded his troops to march at a time when the guards were regaling themselves with twelve bottles of porter ; he ordered them immediately to be taken away. " D — n," exclaimed his men, " he shan't take our porter from us again." Accordingly Cap tain B turned out next year as a com mon militia-man, and so general was his unpopu larity in consequence of the act, that he also faUed in his electioneering campaign for the Assembly of the State. It is much to be wished, however, that the higher ranks in the militia were filled by 216 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XV. men, who, besides other qualifications, had at least some notion of the military science. At present the Union can place very little reliance on the one million eight hundred thousand militia-men, as is sufficiently proved by the war of 1812, and the numerous reverses during its continuance. As Jacksons and cotton bales are not to be found everywhere, it would be but just, as well as politic, to place the flower of the American population on such a footing, as to inspire other nations with some respect, and prevent the militia from being any longer a laughing-stock to foreigners who visit the coun try. If the mob of Philadelphia have shown of what they are capable, by 'choosing the hostler Pluck for a colonel of a regiment, and by com pelling Governor Shulze to approve their choice, we do not quarrel with them for the absurdity ; but if the better classes of society can find the broom and corn sticks of the militia-men, and the periwigs and mock dresses of their colonel, so very entertaining, we must be permitted to judge of their understanding accordingly. That the militia system must be reformed, is beyond all doubt ; but if it is proper to effect this refor mation by turning military rank, already suf- Chap. XV.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 217 ficiently degraded from the circumstance of every tavern-keeper being a colonel, into ridicule and contempt, then the citizens only prove that they are undeserving the privilege of electing their own officers. 218 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVI. Chapter XVI. Physicians. I AM aware that the Americans will take offence at many things which I have mentioned in the progress of these pages, but the fault is not mine. They would fain persuade the world that their physicians are of the very first order, and that their medical institutions are even superior to those of Europe. We know this proneness to ex aggeration, and it is but fair to correct it. Their best medical institutions, the Harward, New York, and Philadelphia Universities, the Bowdoin and Dartmouth Colleges, are in no respect to be compared with those of London, Edinburgh, Vienna, Paris, and Berlin. Several branches, such as anatomy, materia medica, theoretic and practical medicine, chemistry, are well taught, and in these the American physicians have made some progress ; but this is all that can be said. Botany, physiology, and the higher branches of medical science are considered to be superfluous ; and although these medical or rather surgical Chap, XVI.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 219 institutions are regularly resorted to, the number of students bears no comparison to the increasing population ; at the most they but supply the wants of the larger cities. Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, &c., have experienced physicians. Several of them have studied in London or Paris, the greater number in the American Universities ; and though these latter might be rather called surgeons than physicians, yet many of them have acquired by private study that information which the universities Are not able to afford them. But the number of physi cians is wholly inadequate to the demands of the country, and even in the cities, only the wealth iest people can apply to physicians, who are paid for their visits at an enormous price. Persons of less fortune must therefore resort to family medicines or to druggists. In the country, however, there is an evil beyond all bounds, every quack being freely allowed to practice. The generality of " doctors," as they call themselves, are Irishmen or Germans, who have served in some foreign troops, and who begin their career either with false testimonials, or with none. They usuaUy announce them selves as coming from London, Edinburgh, or 220 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVI. Paris, to offer the benefit of their experience to the inhabitants of the county. If the medical vagrant happens to be questioned about his cre dentials, he regrets having lost them during a stormy passage at sea, but he will write imme diately for duplicates to the medical faculty in Paris or Edinburgh, the members of which are all on most intimate terms with him, and will not fail to give ample testimonials of his great abilities. Whatever may be the complaints of his patients, he never fails to administer his sovereign remedy ' — mercury. The mischief which these quacks are doing in the country is incredible. An amiable young couple in A g county, lost, by the ignorance of a would-be doctor of this kind, two of their children in four weeks; the third and last was at the point of death, when the parents sent for a physician to Pittsburgh, who restored the child to health in less than twenty-four hours. I shall abstain from mentioning any other victims of these empirics ; suffice it to say that the evil exceeds aU bounds, and that there is assuredly no civUized nation where the life and health of its citizens are less secure than in the United States of North America. In the Western States, Ohio, Kentucky, &c. Chap. XVI.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 221 the physicians, or rather surgeons, have formed societies after the manner of the clergy, into which none are received until duly examined and approved of. Although the knowledge of these sot disant doctors is confined to a little surgery and the administering of drugs, this measure has already been attended with salutary effects to the States. In the legislature of Pennsylvania, a motion which had been made on the subject, of not being allowed to practise without proper tes timonials, was thrown out. The foregoing is a short but a true sketch of a profession so respectable in itself, and so im portant to the welfare of the human race. To the scarcity of well-educated medical men, may be at tributed that mortality which is far greater in the Union than in any portion of the European con tinent, Holland excepted. Much of it may be owing to the variations of climate, manner of hving, &c. The want of proper physicians how ever, may be another cause ; but the principal reason may be found in the ignorance of these quacks, who, administering nothing but calomel, destroy a great part of the younger population when yet in its infancy. Very few Americans are found to retain their teeth to the age of 222 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVI. thirty. Rheumatisms and consumptions are the frequent and ordinary consequences of perverted medical treatment. Few people are more indifferent to the pre servation of their health. However wilhng an American may be to pay the exorbitant charges of his pseudo-doctor, and the expenses of his sickness, he is reckless of its result. His life has been exposed to so many hardships, dangers, and hair-breadth escapes, that he looks with a certain degree of resignation, or rather apathy, on its termination ; and even when it has not been so adventurous, his cold and indifferent nature never forsakes him in his last moments. Chap. XVII.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 223 Chapter XVII. Manufacturers — Tradesmen. Nothing can exceed the admiration with which everything from England is regarded by the Americans. From a pin, to the splendid dress, aU is universally sought for ; and an American lady would think herself exceedingly unfashionable, if she could not sport even a second-hand reticule from England, and display it to public gaze. However Jonathan may pride himself upon his own unlimited freedom, and despise the rest of mankind whom he deems slaves, to England he pays the utmost deference, though much against his inclination, and English manners and (in fashionable houses) English furniture and dress prevail to the absolute exclusion of those of every other nation. In this he differs widely from the English ladies, who think themselves quite out of fashion, unless France has contri buted to their embeUishment. That the supe riority of England is shewn by this predilection 224 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVII. for her manufactures, there can be no doubt ; and while this predilection exists (and it will exist so long as American merchants persist in being the mere brokers of England), her manufactures wUl always have a decided advantage over do mestic ones. But there is another observation to be made, however unpalatable. Though they may hap pen to get a tailor for their next P 1, there is in the southern and south-western States, a secret pride which scorns every kind of handy- craft work. To buy every article from other countries, and to have, as it were, foreign nations for workmen, is so gratifying to republican pride, that although money is in the estimation of the Americans the only object worth living for, they disregard the advantages resulting from manu factures, they sell the raw material, and buy the manufactured articles at three times the value. To this pride we are indebted for those specimens of eloquence andsound judgment delivered some ten years ago in Congress, to the effect that " the increase of manufactures is not to be encouraged, because the population would crowd to manu factories and produce all the evils attendant upon them, such as debility, sickness, or an enervated Chap. XVII.] OF NORTH AMERICA. 225 generation." Jonathan is aware that being with out money he can no longer sustain the part of a gentleman, and have his tradesmen in Europe ; he therefore sends a number of Yankee spies into the manufacturing districts of England, who acquire as much of the manufacturing system as they are permitted to do, and having thus ob tained sufficient information, he is beginning to establish manufactories after these models. Massachusets and Pennsylvania may be con sidered as taking the lead. The cotton and cloth manufactures of the former, already rival those of other nations. This latter State has now one hundred and thirty-six manufactories of different kinds : New York has nearly the same number, P.ennsylvania excels in iron, cloth, and glass, al though the iron wares of this State, cannot yet vie with those of Great Britain. Of the glass and cloth manufactories, however, some are found, such as Bakewell and Co., in Pittsburgh, with others in Philadelphia and Lancaster, which are assuredly not inferior to the most improved esta blishments of the kind. American cloth and cotton goods are now worn even by fashionables, and the latter are beginning to be much in vogue. The advantage which the American commis- 0 226 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVII. sion merchant derives from the commerce with Great Britain, outweighs the interest he would otherwise take in patronising his own manu factures. He is mostly inclined to lay out his capital in mercantile undertakings, or in ship ping business, leaving internal improvement to foreigners. The government evince a great desire to pro mote the manufacturing establishments, and the tariff of 1824, has already contributed, in a great measure, to rouse a spirit of enterprise, and to direct it to that object. To foreign manufac turers possessing some capital, the United States can at no time offer so many inducements as at the present moment. The cheapness of every article of food, the low rate of wages, and the ready market presented by the Western States, wiU in fallibly secure success to such an undertaking. Two years ago Mr. B arrived in New York, from Great Britain. Wanting a new suit of clothes he was directed to a tailor in Water Street ; he goes there and has his measure taken, and in two days his dress is to be sent home. On the foUowiiig morning he accompanies one of his friends, a respectable merchant in -the city, to Chap. XVII.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 227 visit the Mechanics Bank, where he meets his tailor, with whom his friend enters into close conversation, and who promises to send him next morning ten thousand dollars. " What, for heaven's sake, has my tailor to do with the Bank?" asked Mr. B , who had listened to the coUoquy. " Very much indeed ! he is the president of it !" A tailor, president of a bank, having a capital amounting to more than a mil lion of dollars, was a financial anomaly to the Englishman ; however, not a word of astonish ment escaped him. On the next day they went to the parade of a militia regiment, in which his friend held the rank of captain. The staff makes its appearance ; the young Englishman beholds his tailor dressed as a General, and commanding with such an air of authority, that on his return he exclaimed, " I would rather go to the devil than to this tailor : I should not know how to address him." " Well," rephed Mr. C " you address him as plain Mr. N and nothing more." To these functions our tailor adds another of no less importance, that of a member of the city council. He still carries on his business, and has lately taken a partner. Q 2 228 THE UNITED STATES rf'">P- >'VII- Mr. W a tailor in the same city, was colonel of a militia regiment. When on the parade, and at the head of his regiment, he was asked by one of his officers " whether his coat was ready ?" " You may ask me that question when I am in my workshop, now I am a General. You will give up your sword, and put yourself under ar rest." He did so to the no small satisfaction of his brother officers. Thus it is all over the Northern States ; and a coppersmith or a confectioner may keep one of the most fashionable houses, and receive the best company in the State, be elected a member of the Assembly, of the Senate, or of Congress, and in fact many of the legislative Solons are carpenters, potters, and masons. There is much sound judgment in all this. The American will always be found to proportion his esteem to the talents, the enterprise, and the success of an in dividual without distinction, although at first he may be distrustful and suspicious of the foreigner. The exemplary pastor will enjoy universal popu larity ; the eloquent speaker at the bar may be called his oracle ; while he looks at the mere lawyer, or preacher, with perfect indifference. Whosoever combines talents with industry. Chap, xvil] OF NORTH AMERICA. 229 may be sure of meeting with patronage, and even with occasional pecuniary assistance. There is certainly not a nation whose citizens are less prejudiced against emigrants or foreign artists. The enterprising, active, and wealthy mechanic, ranks with the eminent lawyer in the Northern States, and may aspire to the most distinguished stations. In the Southern States the case is rather dif ferent, and lawyers, planters, and merchants, are treated with a decided preference. As however, fewer opportunities are afforded for mechanics to evince very high talents, the less so as their mental improvement is generally not of the high est order, they are kept (even in the north) in that class which is most suited to their situation in life. This is also the case in other countries, with this difference, that talents and persever ing industry may lead in the United States to wealth, and distinction, and offices ; whereas elsewhere the mechanic must always remain as he began. The majority of tradesmen are stiU English, French, Irish, and Germans ; and however sure the skilful mechanic may be of success, he must not rely upon receiving at first a friendly recep- 230 THE UNITED STATES [Chap.XVll. tion, or a very hearty welcome ; the astonishing increase of population having nearly supplied the deficiency which once prevailed in this respect in the United States. Architects, surveyors, masons, and carpenters, are still welcome. Dis tillers, confectioners, cabinet-makers, and hatters, acquire an independence in a very few years, and an enterprising brewer, with a moderate capital of three thousand dollars, may depend upon being eventually successful, the more so, as the bever age called beer in the Union, is generally dele terious in the highest degree. Even tailors and shoemakers will frequently make a fortune ; the former assume commonly the more genteel name of merchant-tailors. Most of these people, es pecially if English, become rich in a few years, change their trade and turn speculators, buying and selling parcels of lands and houses. On the other hand, there are in Europe certain trades which are either unknown or would be very un successful in America. It may be taken as a rule, that trades and handicrafts connected with the immediate wants, will meet in every part of the Union with encou ragement and success; but artists who are sub servient to the luxuries of life, are only in request Chap. XVII.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 231 in the maritime cities, and even then but so far as they contribute to that species of refinement which corresponds with the genius of Anglo- American, or what is nearly the same — British luxury. 232 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVIII Chapter XVIII. CoNCLUSlpN. Although there are in the United States no regular orders of society, yet as wealth is the standard by which the worth of every one is estimated, a higher respect is paid to those pro fessions which are most likely to attain it. These are the lawyer and the merchant. There is not a country where the influence of the former is greater, for as he is the sole expounder of the law, he will be often found to wrest it to his own selfish purposes, there being no supreme power to control his expositions. In the east, the clergy, notwithstanding their being entirely dependant on the people, have much influence, which shews that wherever wealth is accumulated, the esprit du corps is invariably the same. Though the United States exhibit a greater uniformity of manners than any other nation, yet there is still found a striking difference amongst them. In the eastern sea-ports you will find the manners of an European metropolis. Chap, xvill.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 233 alloyed by the pride of wealth, which, as it is the only mark of distinction, is not calculated to en courage courteous and social habits. In the central parts, from the Alleghany Mountains down to Cincinnati, a truly republican character is more than anywhere conspicuous. It is liberal, unassuming, ho.spitable, and independent. Fur ther on we find the half-cultivated indigence of a rising population. The different States themselves, vary not less in their characteristic features ; and a Yankee of Massachusets is in many respects as dissimilar to a Kentuckian, as the Irishman differs from a Scotch highlander. Situation, climate, and oc cupation, gradually lend a distinct feature to each separate State ; contending interests also contribute to establish a character which differs more or less with that of its neighbour. The ruling passion of the American is the love of money. Vain indeed would be the attempt to vindicate his character on this point ; with him, worldly prosperity and merit are in- dissolubly connected. Something, however, may be conceded to this feeling, when it is considered as springing from the very nature of his public institutions ; for in the absence of artificial distinc- 234 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVI'I. tions, wealth is the grand passport to public and private importance. Though this cupidity is certainly too far ex tended, and a sordid love of money is every where prevalent, yet it is but fair to state, that there is not a people on earth, who, when in pos session of wealth, make a more beneficial and liberal use of it. An American, it its true, will consult his own interest ; he will not hesitate to sacrifice health and everything dear to him, and will even not be over-scrupulous in the se lection of means to accomplish his purpose. But wealth obtained, he will not only contribute to the comfort of his family, but to that of the people in general ; he will not only advance the improvement of his immediate locality, and en courage the institutions of his county or state, but with the same eagerness he will give his sub scriptions to colleges and churches five hundred miles distant from his residence, and often in preference to those around him, if productive of more beneficial consequences. Thus, as we have stated, sprung up most of the literary institutions and churches in the north. There are a thou sand examples of this liberality. The liberality of the American, and, what is Ch.ip. xviII] OF NORTH AMERICA. 235 still better, his sound sense, is nowhere more striking than in the cities, and the public and private buildings of the United States, It is not the mere regularity, the rectangular main-streets, from sixty to one hundred and twenty feet wide, the straight lines of elegant brick buildings in the cities, of brick and frame houses in the towns and villages, which deserve admiration ; it is the strict regard, which, even in the most remote villages of the Union, is generally paid to the public health and comfort. The site of the town is either near a river, or in some other advantageous position : even a vil lage of one hundred houses has its market place. The elegant, though mostly simple court houses, the side-walks, and the general neatness which, notwithstanding a still visible insufficiency of means, is everywhere apparent, evince the soundest views, and the most correct judgment. It would be worse than narrowness of mind to expect from a country, only of a political ex istence of fifty years, the same splendour and comfort which the English capital and cities display, and which is the result of a liberal appli cation of a wealth accumulated during centuries. In this respect, English cities only are superior 236 THE UNITED STATES [Chap.Xvin. to the American. As you may discover the mo narch in the splendid palaces of the Tuilleries, Versailles, the Louvre, and in the magnificent royal squares and gardens of Paris, so the small est American village will serve to indicate that the sovereignty is in the people. The gorgeous and often whimsical palaces of royalty you would seek in vain in the United States; but even Paris suffers in comparison with the airy, light, com fortable, and elegant American cities. Of these. New York is the most splendid. The Broadway, commanding on the one side a perspective view of the State House, and the vast expanse of waters, with the various islands on the other, is unrivalled for beauty, perhaps, in the whole world. It is not yet so imposing as Regent Street, or Rue de la Paix, but it is certainly more elegant, Boston is the most solid, as it is the most literary and refined city of the Union ; Philadelphia is the plainest and most aristocratic. Washington is laid out in the grandest style, though its comple tion will, perhaps, never be effected ; but even Baltimore, Richmond, New Albany, New Or leans, Cincinnati, are handsome cities. In these, as everywhere else, the enterprising spirit of the people is immense. Chap. XVUI.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 237 On my first tour to the grandest sight in na ture, the faUs of Niagara, the road from Albany to the Cataract was nearly a wilderness. When I passed three years afterwards (1825), the whole line of the New York Canal teemed with an industrious population ; one spot was especially remarkable. In the space of three years, from a native forest it became an elegant little town, inhabited by eighteen hundred people*. The energy of the American, in this respect, is truly astonishing ; he will leave farm-house, home, friends, and everything, and seek a better abode. For this he will surmount every obstacle, face every danger, and no difficulty nor hardship deters him from attaining his ends. If he is not able to sell his property, he will let it lie waste, and eagerly repair to the better spot which pro mises more advantage and profit. Notwithstanding his adventurous enterprise, there is an economical spirit visible throughout, of which experience only can form an adequate idea. The American, in all his undertakings, goes at once to the main point ; he looks at the * I have forgotten the name of this place. It may, however, easily be discovered, as even in America it has excited a lively and very general interest. 238 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVIU. principal end, and endeavours to obtain it in the cheapest way. This prudent economy is not only the result of a popular government, where its functionaries are strictly responsible for the public expenditure, it is in a greater degree the conse quence of their origin. They were (as every nation is in the beginning) poor, and even com paratively poorer than other nations. They brought with them when they emigrated to America, only the most necessary utensils of common life, and even of these an insufficient supply. Most of them had to wander into the interior of the trackless forests destitute of almost every requisite, and to live with their children without the most necessary articles of comfort. Thus they were accustomed to look at things which even much less enlightened nations cannot dispense with, as mere trifles, and that axiom of philosophy, " The fewer the wants the greater the independence," was the practical result. The United States will never present the world with an Escurial, a Versailles, or a Winter Palace, but their improvements are of a more solid and of a more beneficial nature. On the Mississippi alone there are upwards of a hundred steam boats, more (with the exception of England) Chap. XVUI.) OF NORTH AMERICA. 239 than the whole continent of Europe can boast of. They have begun the great national road from Washington to New Orleans, a distance of more than thirteen hundred miles, and which, when continued to Mexico, will be nearly three thousand. The canals of the Susquehannah, of Ohio, Delaware, &c., are in progress. The Lehigh coal mines alone are a work which would be creditable to England. These, and other public improvements, are carried on here in a spirit of liberal economy (if I may so speak) truly praise worthy. Instead of such immense fortresses as Ehrenbreitstein, Strasburgh, Cologne, Mentz, which consumed the income of a whole country for a series of years, there will be found the small forts in Louisiana, in the Delaware, in the Poto- mack, for scarcely one thousand, and some for not more than five hundred men. But these forts are laid out on a plan, which proves, that though the Americans have not been brought up under a Vaughan, or in the military school at Brienne, that they know how to build fortresses suited to their purpose. This intelligence is stiU more strikingly dis played in the naval establishment of the Union, both mercantUe and public. One must have 240 THE UNITED STATES [Ci.ap. XVlll. seen an American man-of-war, have seen the elegant compactness of these vessels, the extreme order and alertness of their seamen, to judge of them accurately. Taken on the whole, the American national character is certainly aspiring, energetic, shrewd, and intelligent ; but this character, though re spectable, is not altogether amiable. It is neither that of the steady, noble, and generous English, nor has it the sincerity nor the intense feeling of the German, nor the lively, and even in its levity, the still amiable disposition of the French. It exhibits the unnatural picture of a cold phi losophical youth, united with the worst vice of age — avarice. There is not a nation, which, ab stracted from its political institutions, has less friends, or whose intrinsic powers and excellent qualities have been more slighted and ridiculed by English writers. There is but one voice re specting these insults from Boston down to New Orleans, from Washington to St. Louis, and it is that of bitter complaint. The fault is on both sides. It would be in vain to shelter the Ame ricans from those faults and vices which we have already mentioned, and many of which we should not have expected from English descendants. Chap. XVUI.] OF NORTH AMERICA, 241 So it would be unreasonable to expect a very friendly disposition from two nations, the one of which is in possession of the commerce of the world, and of the dominion of the ocean, and the other which aspires to wrest this superiority from the grasp of Great Britain, But it must not be disguised that those Eng lish writers of travels, who speak of the United States, were generally prejudiced, and always not qualified to form a correct opinion of this rising and powerful nation. These writings exhibit, if not a total want of information, such an absence of that philosophical research so necessary to give Englishmen a correct idea of their shrewd and intelligent rival, that it is not to be wondered at that so much error and prejudice exist. The re sult has been highly injurious to the cause of truth and to the interests of Great Britain. Her leading Journals, adopting these opinions, have contributed by their systematic attacks to elevate and strengthen the national character of the Ame ricans, and to concentrate its energies against a country, whose most distinguished literary talents they see array§d against their advancement. The national honour and the national feeling, which would for a while have slumbered, have awakened 11 242 THE UNITED STATES [Chap. XVl;l. to prove that such sarcasms are unmerited. He must personally have witnessed through a series of years, the exasperation, the rankling animosity, which these attacks, repeated in numberless news papers, have spread through millions of freemen, to be a fair judge of their powerful operation on the American character. They see themselves slighted by the only nation for whom they have a real esteem. Though the resources of the United States are not to be placed in comparison with those of Great Britain, yet to exasperate the spirit of this infant giant, and to direct its accu mulating energies against herself — and to do this merely for the occasion of indulging in a sneer — is neither generous, nor politic, nor just. THE END.